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 TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY 
 
 SCOTLAND 
 
 COMPRISING THE 
 
 SEVERAL COUNTIES, ISLANDS, CITIES, BURGH AND MARKET TOWNS, 
 PARISHES, AND PRINCIPAL VILLAGES, 
 
 WITH 
 
 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL DESCRIPTIONS 
 
 EMBELLISHED WITH 
 
 ENGRAVINGS OF THE SEALS AND ARMS OF THE DIFFERENT BURGHS AND UNIVERSITIES. 
 
 BY SAMUEL LEWIS. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 VOL. L 
 
 From Abbey to Jura. 
 
 ^ffonti (0tiition. 
 
 LONDON: 
 PUBLISHED BY S. LEWIS AND CO., 13, FINSBURY PLACE, SOUTH. 
 
 M.DCCC.LI.
 
 LONDON : 
 
 GILBERT AND RIVINGTO.N, PRINTERS, 
 
 ST. John's square.
 
 UNlVEiJSiTV OF CALIFORNU 
 3A1XTA BARBARA 
 
 P R E F A C E. 
 
 The Proprietors , of the "Topographical Dictionary of Scotland" have much satisfaction in 
 presenting their Subscribers with the concluding portion of their undertaking in illustration 
 of the Topography of the United Kingdom. Some time has now elapsed since they first 
 circulated proposals for publishing Dictionaries of England, Wales, Ireland, and Scotland, 
 in succession, in ten volumes. They trust, however, that the delay has enabled them to 
 make the volumes more exact and comprehensive than they could possibly have been made 
 in a shorter period ; and the Proprietors of this almost national Publication can truly say, 
 that they have spared no pains, and held back from no reasonable expense, calculated to 
 render their labours worthy of the favour of the Subscribers. 
 
 In compiling the present Dictionary, the Proprietors have had the benefit of the stores 
 of topographical and statistical information collected in the fifteen octavo volumes of the 
 " New Statistical Account of Scotland," a work to which the Established Clergy were the 
 chief contributors. It would be impossible to enumerate the various private parties to 
 whom the Dictionary is Indebted for valuable assistance. As in the prefaces to the former 
 volumes, the Proprietors must now content themselves with a general and yet most grateful 
 acknowledgment of the kind aid they have received from numerous persons. 
 
 For the Seals and Arms that embellish the Work, the Proprietors' thanks are chiefly 
 due to the Town-Clerks of the several Burghs, who obliged them with the wax iinpres- 
 sions from which most of the engravings have been executed. Their best acknowledgments 
 are also due to the Principals of King's College Aberdeen, of Marischal College Aberdeen, 
 and of Glasgow College ; the Reverend the Librarian of the University of Edinburgh ; and 
 the Reverend C. J. Lyon, M.A., of St. Andrew's, Author of the valuable History of that 
 city ; for copies of the Official Seals of the five great Universities of Scotland. 
 
 A 2
 
 i^ PREFACE. 
 
 It may be well to remind the Reader, that the Work, as denoted in the title-page, 
 simply comprises separate articles upon the Islands, Counties, Cities, Towns, Parishes, and 
 Principal Villages ; the rivers, mountains, lakes, seats, and such objects, being (unlike the 
 manner of a o'eneral gazetteer) described under the heads of parishes, &c. Thus, the 
 far-famed mansion of Abbotsford is noticed in the article on Melrose. The arrangement 
 of the places is strictly alphabetical, each being given under its proper name; and the 
 epithet, if any, by which it is distinguished from another locality of the same designation, 
 following after the chief heading. In this way, all such terms as .S*^., East, West, North 
 and South, Great and Little, Old and New, will be found to come after the real names : 
 as Andrew's, St.; Berwick, North ; Cumnock, Old; INIonkland, New. 
 
 The following minor points may also be noticed. The statements of acres in the Work 
 refer to the imperial standard measure. The ministers' stipends, which usually depend on 
 the price of grain, are in most cases taken from the Report made by the Royal Commis- 
 sioners ; in other cases they are derived from private and later information : the sum for 
 communion elements is generally included in the statement. The annual value of real 
 property in each parish is inserted also on the authority of a parliamentary paper, printed 
 some years ago, and having reference to the assessments under the property-tax. 
 
 In conclusion, the Proprietors have to request the indulgence of the Subscribers with 
 regard to any errors they may detect. No topographical work can be wholly free from 
 errors. To say that inaccuracies have crept into a compilation of this nature would be only 
 to say, in other words, that the hand of time may be stayed, and that the fugitive and 
 varying circumstances of a country can be always the same. The Proprietors have used 
 every means to ensure correctness ; and they hope that the Work will be received by the 
 Subscribers with kind consideration.
 
 TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY 
 
 OF 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 A B BO 
 
 A B B O 
 
 AbBEY-GREEN, a considerable village, in the parish 
 of Lesmahagow, Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 
 6 miles (S. W.) from Lanark ; containing, with Turf- 
 holm, 881 inhabitants. This village, formerly called 
 Macute's-Green, derives its present name from its vici- 
 nity to the ruins of an ancient monastery dependent on 
 the abbey of Kelso. It is pleasantly seated in a valley 
 on the west bank of the Nethan, a fine stream tributary 
 to the Clyde. The village is in the centre of the parish, 
 and contains the parochial church. The inhabitants are 
 employed in various trades requisite for the supply of 
 the neighbourhood, and in hand-loom weaving for the 
 manufacturers of Glasgow and Paisley. 
 
 ABBEY PARISH, Renfrewshire. — See Paisley. 
 
 ABBEY ST. BATHAN'S.— See Bathan's, St. 
 
 ABBOTSHALL, a parish, in the district of Kirk- 
 caldy, county of Fife ; containing, with the village of 
 Chapel, 4811 inhabitants, of whom 4100 are in the town 
 of Abbotshall, consisting of Linktown and Newtown. 
 This place derived its name from its having been the 
 residence of the abbots of Dunfermline, one of whom 
 erected a mansion here, the site of which is still pointed 
 out by a yew-tree of very ancient growth. The lands, 
 about the middle of the fifteenth century, belonged to 
 the abbey of Dunfermline, and are supposed, after the 
 dissolution of monasteries, to have been granted to the 
 bailies and corporation of the town of Kirkcaldy, and 
 by them transferred to the family of the Scotts of Bal- 
 weary, from whom they passed into the possession of 
 the Ramsays of this place, and were purchased by the 
 ancestors of the present proprietor. The greater portion 
 of the lands formerly in Kirkcaldy, was, in the year 1650, 
 separated from that parish, and, together with the lands 
 of Easter and Wester Touch, formerly in the parish of 
 Kinghorn, and those of Wester Bogie, in the parish of 
 Dysart, erected into a separate and distinct parish, under 
 the appellation of Abbotshall. 
 
 The parish is situated on the Firth of Forth, by 
 which it is bounded on the south-east, and comprises 
 Vol. I.— 1 
 
 about 4000 acres, of which about 3320 are under tillage, 
 and the remainder in natural wood and in plantations. 
 Along the coast the surface is level ; but the ground 
 rises in a gentle slope, towards the middle of the parish, 
 and thence is pleasingly undulated. A small stream 
 issuing from the Camilla loch, in the parish of Auchter- 
 tool, on the west, flows through the lower lands into 
 the river Tiel, near its influ-v into the sea. The soil is 
 mostly fertile : towards the coast, it is light, but pro- 
 ductive ; on the rising grounds, more inland, it is a 
 deep rich loam, and iu other parts varies considerably 
 in quality. The crops are, wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, 
 and turnips, with peas, beans, and other green crops ; 
 the system of husbandry is in a highly improved state, 
 and the farm-buildings, and the inclosures and fences, 
 are kept in excellent repair. Some sheep are fed, prin- 
 cipally on the lands belonging to the principal seats; 
 and these are generally of the Cheviot breed : there are 
 also a few black-cattle reared, chiefly of the Fifeshire, 
 and a mixture of the Fife, Angus, and other breeds. 
 The plantations are mainly on the estate of Raith, and 
 consist of oak, ash, elm, chesnut, sycamore, beech, 
 spruce, and Scotch firs, with some larch, with the ex- 
 ception of which last all thrive well, and attain to a 
 majestic growth. In general the substratum is carboni- 
 ferous limestone, and coal interspersed with trap ; the 
 limestone is quarried for farming and other uses, and 
 there are extensive lime-works iu the village of Chapel, 
 but the coal, from the immediate vicinity of long-esta- 
 blished mines, from which an abundant supply is ob- 
 tained at a moderate price, has not been worked for 
 many years. Fossils of various kinds are found im- 
 bedded in the limestone. There are also some quarries 
 of freestone in the parish, which is used for building 
 purposes. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £8777. 
 
 The chief seat is Raith : the mansion-house was 
 partly built in 1694, by Lord Raith, who erected the 
 central portion, to which two capacious wings were 
 
 B
 
 A B BO 
 
 ABDI 
 
 added by a late Mr. Ferguson ; and the late proprietor, 
 his successor, completed the building by the erection 
 of a beautiful portico of the Ionic order, rendering the 
 whole one of the most spacious and elegant mansions in 
 the country. The demesne is very extensive, and richly 
 planted ; and the pleasure-grounds are ornamented by 
 a picturesque lake, surrounded with fine walks, varied 
 with parterres of flowering shrubs and thriving planta- 
 tions. This lake, which covers more than twenty acres, 
 was formed in 181'^ ; it is in some parts twenty-five feet 
 in depth, abounds with fish of various kinds, and is 
 frequented by numerous aquatic birds : it is situated at 
 the base of the eminence on which the mansion is built, 
 and adds greatly to the beauty of the scenery. Within 
 a short distance of the house, and nearly on the summit 
 of a hill, is a lofty tower, from which is obtained, on 
 a clear day, a view over fifteen counties. In front of 
 the house is a remarkably fine beech-tree, measuring 
 fourteen feet in girth ; and among the plantations are 
 numerous specimens of stately and venerable timber. 
 Wester Bogie, another residence, is a handsome castel- 
 lated mansion of modern erection, situated in a demesne 
 of no great extent, but laid out in fine taste and embel- 
 lished svith flourishing plantations. 
 
 The chief manufacture is the weaving of ticking, which 
 is carried on to a very considerable extent, employing 
 nearly 500 looms ; the weaving of dowlas has also been 
 introduced, both for the home trade and for exportation. 
 There is a factory worked by steam, for manufacturing 
 a thin kind of linen sheeting, another for canvass for 
 making sails, and also a bleachfield. The parish contains 
 several mills for barley-meal and flour, all of which, 
 together with one for grinding flint, are driven by water; 
 a pottery for brown earthenware is carried on by the 
 proprietor of the flint-mill, and there is likewise a large 
 establishment for the making of bricks and tiles, for 
 which purpose clay of good quality is found in the 
 neighbourhood. Coal-gas works have been established 
 for lighting the towns of Linktown and Newtown. A 
 brewery is also conducted, but the only produce is small 
 beer. Great facility of intercourse is afforded by the 
 Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. Fairs are held 
 in Linktown on the third Friday in April and October, 
 which were great marts for the sale of linseed and black- 
 cattle ; but both have for some time been declining, and 
 the principal articles exposed for sale are shoes, brought 
 from a distance, and articles of pedlery. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Kirkcaldy and synod of Fife ; patron, 
 R. Ferguson, Esq., of Raith. The stipend of the incum- 
 bent is £199. 11. 11.: the manse was rebuilt in 177^, 
 and has been recently enlarged ; the glebe comprises 
 six acres and a half of good land, valued at £36 per 
 annum. The present church, which occupies the site 
 of the ancient edifice, was built in 17SS, and is adapted 
 for a congregation of 8'25 persons. An additional 
 church, in connexion with the Establishment, has been 
 erected for the benefit of the surplus population of this 
 and the adjoining parish of Kinghorn ; and there are 
 places of worship for members of the Free Church and 
 the United Presbyterian Church. The parochial school 
 affords a liberal education ; the master has a salary of 
 £34. 4. 4., with £35 school fees, and money from other 
 sources. There is also a free school endowed by Robert 
 Philip, Esq., who bequeathed property to the amount of 
 2 
 
 £80,000, for the foundation and endowment of schools 
 in Abbotshall, Kirkcaldy, Dysart, and Kinghorn : the 
 number of children attending the school in this parish is 
 100 ; they are all clothed, and supplied with books and 
 stationery, and, on leaving the school, receive a sum of 
 money to enable them to learn some trade. 
 
 Near the site of the tower in the demesne of Raith, 
 have been found coffins of stone, rudely formed, and 
 urns containing human bones. There are still some 
 remains of the ancient castle of Balweary, consisting 
 chiefly of the eastern wall, which is entire, and part of 
 the north and south walls; they are more than six feet in 
 thickness, and appear to have inclosed an area of about 
 thirty feet. Balweary was the birth-place of Sir Michael 
 Scott, who, from his eminence in the science of mathe- 
 matics, and in general literature, was regarded as a 
 prodigy : on his return to his native land, after many 
 years spent in the universities of the continent, he was 
 appointed, on the death of Alexander III., to bring home 
 the young queen from Norway. William Adam, the 
 architect, was also a native of Abbotshall parish. The 
 parish has given title to many distinguished persons, 
 among whom were, Thomas Scott and Andrew Ramsay, 
 Lords Abbotshall ; and George Melville, Earl of Raith. 
 — See Linktown, and Newtown. 
 
 ABDIE, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county 
 of Fife, 2^ miles (P. S. E.) from Newburgh ; including 
 the villages of Lindores, Grange of Lindores, Glenburnie, 
 and a suburb of the town of Newburgh, called Mount- 
 Pleasant ; and containing 1508 inhabitants. This place 
 formed part of the lands of Macduff, Thane of Fife ; it 
 continued in the possession of his descendants for many 
 ages, and afterwards, together with the earldom, passed 
 to the family of Mordac, Duke of Albany, on whose 
 attainder and decapitation at Stirling, in the reign of 
 James I., his estates in Fife, and other property, reverted 
 to the crown. The lands of Denmill, which included 
 the greater portion of this parish, were granted by 
 James II. to James Balfour, son of Sir John Balfour, 
 of Balgarvie, one of whose descendants was killed in the 
 battle of Flodden Field, to which he attended his sove- 
 reign James IV. ; and another, Sir James Balfour, of 
 Denmill, was appointed lyon king-at-arms to Charles I. 
 and Charles II. There are still remaining some vestiges 
 of the ancient castle of Lindores, in the village of that 
 name, said to have been the residence of Duncan Mac- 
 duff, first Thane of Fife ; near which, according to the 
 annals drawn up by Sir James Balfour, a sanguinary 
 battle took place in the year 1300, between the Scots, 
 headed by Sir William Wallace, and the English, when 
 the latter were defeated, with the loss of 3000 slain on 
 the field, and 500 taken prisoners. 
 
 The parish, anciently called Lindores, was formerly 
 of much greater extent than at present, including the 
 lands of the parish of Newburgh, which was separated 
 from it in 1633. Its surface is very uneven, rising in 
 some parts into hills of considerable elevation, of which 
 the highest are the Norman's Law and the Clatchard 
 Crag. Tlie former is 936 feet above the level of the sea, 
 and commands an extensive prospect, combining much 
 interesting scenery, especially towards the north, em- 
 bracing the Carse of Gowrie, with its richly cultivated 
 surface, and the Firth of Tay, and lauds in its vicinity, 
 which are richly planted. The Clatchard Crag, situated 
 to the south-east of Newburgh, is a taU and stately cliff.
 
 A BD I 
 
 A B E R 
 
 abruptly rising to an elevation of 250 feet above the 
 level of the plain, and towering with rugged majesty- 
 above the road, which passes near its base. The river 
 Tay bounds the parish on the north and east ; and a 
 powerful stream issues from the loch of Lindores, in the 
 parish, and in its course gives motion to several large 
 mills. The loch of Lindores is a beautiful sheet of water, 
 covering nearly seventy acres of ground, and measuring 
 iu many places almost twenty feet in depth. It is sup- 
 plied by a copious stream that rises in a tract of moss 
 about half a mile distant, called the Priest's burn, which 
 in the winter is never frozen, and in the driest sum- 
 mers is always abundant. The lake abounds with 
 perch, pike, and eels, and is much frequented by ducks, 
 teals, and snipes. 
 
 The number of acres in the parish is nearly 7000, 
 whereof 4580 are arable, about 1530 in pasture, 300 
 in wood, and the remainder waste land, of which, pro- 
 bably, nearly 200 acres might be brought into cultiva- 
 tion. The soil is extremely various : along the banks 
 of the Tay, in the lower part of the parish, it is remark- 
 ably fertile ; on the slopes it is a black loam of great 
 depth, and in other parts hght and gravelly. The accli- 
 vities of the hills are partly covered with heath, but in 
 many places afford good pasturage for sheep, of which 
 considerable numbers, chiefly of a mixed breed, are 
 reared in the parish, and sold in the neighbouring mar- 
 kets. Great numbers of sheep of different kinds are 
 also fed here upon turnips, and shipped to London by 
 steamers from Leith and Dundee. The chief crops are, 
 barley, oats, wheat, potatoes, and turnips : from the 
 improved system of agriculture, and the draining and 
 reclaiming of waste lands, the crops have been greatly 
 increased in value ; and large quantities of grain and 
 potatoes are exported. There are likewise several dairy 
 farms, producing butter and cheese of good quality. 
 The substratum is generally whinstone, of which there 
 are quarries in full operation ; it is much valued for 
 building and other purposes, and was formerly exported 
 to a great extent. A kind of red sandstone is prevalent, 
 which was once quarried ; and limestone is also found, 
 but, from the distance of coal, every attempt to work it 
 for burning into lime has been given up. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £8145. 
 
 The principal seat is Inchrye House, a castellated 
 building in the early English style, crowned with battle- 
 ments, and embellished with turrets, erected at an ex- 
 pense of £12,000. It is seen with peculiar effect from 
 the road leading to Newburgh ; it is surrounded with 
 thriving woods and ornamental plantations, and the 
 grounds are laid out with great taste. The House of 
 Lindores, the residence of Admiral Maitland, who com- 
 manded the Bellerophon when Napoleon Buonaparte 
 surrendered himself prisoner, is pleasantly situated upon 
 an eminence, embracing much varied and interesting 
 scenery overlooking the loch of Lindores. There are 
 various other handsome residences, finely seated, and 
 adding to the beauty of the landscape. The weaving of 
 linen is carried on in the parish, affording employment 
 to a considerable number of persons who work with 
 hand-leoms in their own dwellings ; there are corn and 
 barley mills in full and increasing operation, a saw-mill 
 for timber, on a very extensive scale, and a mill for 
 grinding bones for manure. Great facility of intercourse 
 is afforded by the Perth line of the Edinburgh, Perth, 
 3 
 
 and Dundee railway. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Cupar and synod 
 of Fife ; the Earl of Mansfield is patron, and the stipend 
 of the incumbent is £233, with a manse, and a glebe 
 comprising four acres of arable, and six of pasture, land, 
 valued at £23 per annum. Abdie church, a plain sub- 
 stantial edifice, was erected in 1827, and is adapted for 
 nearly 600 persons. The parochial school affords a 
 liberal course of instruction ; the master has a salary of 
 £34. 4. 4., with £17 from school fees, and a good house 
 and garden. 
 
 There are some remains of the ancient church, in the 
 porch of which is still the basin for the consecrated 
 ■water ; and, till lately, the steps that formed the ascent 
 to the altar were also entire. Urns containing human 
 bones and ashes have been found in several parts of the 
 parish. One containing a skull and several bones was 
 dug up a short time ago near the foot of Clatchard 
 Crag ; it was inclosed in loose flat stones placed toge- 
 ther in the form of a kistvaen. A similar urn was 
 found near the site of the ancient abbey of Lindores, 
 containing a great number of small bones. On the 
 summit of Clatchard Crag are the vestiges of an ancient 
 fort ; and near the top of Norman's Law are three con- 
 centric circles, of rough stones rudely formed, supposed 
 to have been a Danish encampment. 
 
 ABERCHIRDER, a village, in the parish of Mar- 
 NOCH, county of Banff, 7 miles (W. by N.) from Tur- 
 riff; containing 819 inhabitants. The whole parish was 
 formerly called by the name of this place, derived from 
 Sir David Aberkerder, Thane of Aberkerder, who lived 
 about the year 1400, and possessed great property in 
 this vicinity. The village consists chiefly of three 
 streets, regularly laid out, parallel to each other, with a 
 square in the centre, in addition to which, several good 
 substantial houses have been recently built. Aberchirder 
 contains a branch of the North of Scotland Bank, a 
 stamp-office, and a post-office ; it is crossed by the turn- 
 pike-road between Banff and Huntly, and that between 
 Turriff and Portsoy also passes through it. There is an 
 Episcopalian chapel. 
 
 ABERBROTHOCK.— See Arbroath. 
 
 ABERCORN, a parish, in the county of Linlith- 
 gow, 5^ miles (E. by N.) from Linlithgow ; containing, 
 with the villages of Newtown and Philipstown, about 
 950 inhabitants. This place, which derives its name 
 from its situation at the influx of the small river Cornie 
 into the Firth of Forth, is of very remote origin. Its 
 ancient castle occupied the site of a Roman station 
 between the wall of Antonine and the port of Cramond 
 on the Firth, in the harbour of which the Romans 
 moored their ships. A monastery appears to have been 
 founded here at a very early period by the Culdees, 
 which, in the seventh century, became the seat of a 
 bishopric ; but after the death of Egfrid, King of 
 Northumbria, who, in 696, was killed in a battle with 
 the northern Picts, the bishop who then presided over 
 the see, not thinking the establishment sufficiently 
 secure, removed it to a place less exposed to danger. 
 Of this monastery, which is supposed to have occupied 
 a site near the present parish church, there are not the 
 slightest vestiges remaining ; and its only memorial is 
 preserved in the names Priestinch, Priest's Folly, and 
 others, by which some lands in the parish that most 
 probably appertained to it, are still distinguished. The 
 
 B2
 
 A BER 
 
 ABER 
 
 castle, and the lands belonging to it, in the twelfth cen- 
 tury were the property of the Avenale family, from whom 
 they passed by marriage to the Grahams ; and in 129S 
 they were held by Sir John Graham, the friend and 
 firm adherent of Sir William Wallace, under whose ban- 
 ner, fighting for the independence of his country, against 
 Edward I. of England, he fell in the battle of Falkirk. 
 Abercorn subsequently became the property of the 
 Douglas family, and on the rebeUion of the Earl of 
 Douglas, the castle, which was one of the strongholds 
 of his party, was besieged by James II., and taken by 
 storm on the Sth of April, 1455, when the earl's re- 
 tainers were put to death, and the fortifications demo- 
 lished. Eventually the castle became a complete ruin, 
 and every vestige of it has long since disappeared : the 
 site, however, is still apparent, being marked by a grassy 
 mound on which several cedars of Lebanon now grow. 
 The lands were afterwards granted by the crown to 
 Claude Hamilton, third son of the Earl of Arran, and 
 the first Viscount Paisley, by whose devoted attachment 
 to the fortunes of Mary, Queen of Scots, they became 
 forfeited ; but they were subsequently restored by James 
 VI. to his son, whom, in 1606, that monarch created 
 Earl of Abercorn. From this family, the estate passed 
 successively to the Muirs, the Lindsays, and the Setons ; 
 and in I67S, the lands, which had been greatly dimi- 
 nished in extent, but to which was still attached the 
 sheriffdom of the county, were sold by Sir AV alter Seton 
 to Sir John Hope, ancestor of the Earls of Hopetoun. 
 The office of sheriff was separated from the estate about 
 the middle of the eighteenth century. 
 
 The PARISH is situated on the south shore of the 
 Firth of Forth, and comprises about 4500 acres, of which 
 3700 are arable, meadow, and pasture, 670 woodland 
 and plantations, and the remainder roads and waste. 
 Its surface is pleasingly undulated, and rises in two 
 points into hills of inconsiderable eminence, of which 
 the highest, Binns, has an elevation of about 350 feet, 
 and Priestinch of nearly 100 feet. The former of these, 
 at the western extremity of the parish, ascending gra- 
 dually from the shore of the Firth, is arable to the very 
 summit, and commands an interesting and extensive 
 view ; and the latter, on the south border of the parish, 
 is a precipitous rock of trapstone, of elliptical form, on 
 the flat summit of which are some remains of an ancient 
 fortification. The shore, extending for about four miles, 
 is beautifully diversified with bays, headlands, and un- 
 dulating banks, enriched with plantations to the water's 
 edge, and occasionally interspersed with verdant patches 
 of sloping meadow-land. The only rivers are, the Ne- 
 thermill burn, and the Cornie, a still smaller stream, 
 both which, uniting near the church, flow into the 
 Firth ; and the Blackness and Linnmill burns, of which 
 the former separates the parish from that of Carriden, 
 and the latter from the parish of Dalmeny. In general 
 the soil is a clayey loam, producing grain of all kinds of 
 good quality, with potatoes and turnips ; the pastures 
 are rich, and the meadows yield abundant crops of hay. 
 Considerable attention has been paid to the rearing of 
 cattle, in which much benefit has been effected by the 
 introduction of the Teeswater breed ; and all the recent 
 improvements in husbandry, and in the construction of 
 agricultural implements, have been generally adopted. 
 The plantations, which are extensive, and carefully ma 
 naged by regular thinnmg and pruning, consist mostly 
 
 of beech, elm, oak, sycamore, lime, and chesnut, with 
 larch, Scotch, silver, and spruce firs, of all of which 
 many beautiful specimens are to be found. There are 
 quarries of valuable freestone in various parts of the 
 parish, which have been wrought for many generations, 
 the stone varying, in colour from a light cream to a dark 
 grey ; and in the hill of Priestinch is a quarry of trap, 
 affording excellent materials for the roads. Limestone 
 is also abundant, and of very pure qualit)', better adapted 
 for agricultural purposes than for building ; it occurs in 
 beds ten feet in thickness, generally at a depth varying 
 from fifteen to twenty-five feet below the surface. There 
 is likewise a small mine of coal near Priestinch, of 
 moderate quality, in working which about twenty per- 
 sons are employed. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £8009. 
 
 Hopetoun House, the seat of the Earl of Hopetoun, 
 originally commenced after a design by Sir William 
 Bruce, in I696, and completed under the superintend- 
 ence of Mr. Adam, is a spacious and handsome man- 
 sion, consisting of a centre connected by colonnades of 
 graceful curvature, with boldly projecting wings, termi- 
 nating in octagonal turrets crowned with domes. Being 
 seated on a splendid terrace overlooking the Firth, it 
 for.Tis a truly magnificent feature as seen from the water. 
 It contains numerous stately apartments, decorated with 
 costly splendour ; the library contains an extensive and 
 well assorted collection of scarce and valuable books and 
 manuscripts, with numerous illuminated missals and 
 other conventual antiquities, and the picture-gallery is 
 rich in specimens of the ancient masters of the Flemish 
 and Italian schools. The grounds are tastefully laid out, 
 embellished with plantations ; and the walks along the 
 heights overlooking the Firth command diversified pros- 
 pects : the eastern approach to the mansion is through 
 a level esplanade, and the western under a stately avenue 
 of elms. His Majesty George IV. visited General the 
 Earl of Hopetoun at this seat, on the day of his return 
 from Scotland, in 1S22, and, after partaking of the earl's 
 hospitality, embarked at Port-Edgar, for London. Binns 
 House is an ancient castellated mansion, beautifully situ- 
 ated on the western slope of the hill of the same name, 
 and surrounded with a park containing much picturesque 
 and romantic scenery ; the grounds are pleasingly embel- 
 lished with plantations, interspersed with lawns and 
 walks, and on the summit of the hill is a lofty circular 
 tower forming a conspicuous landmark. Duddingston 
 House is a modern mansion in the castellated style, situ- 
 ated on an eminence in the south-east of the parish, and 
 commanding an extensive view. Midhope House, for- 
 merly a seat of the Earls of Linlithgow, is an ancient 
 mansion still in tolerable preservation, and now occupied 
 in tenements, to which an old staircase of massive oak 
 affords access ; the building consists of a square embat- 
 tled tower with angular turrets, and above the entrance 
 is a coronet, with the letters J. L. 
 
 The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in agricultural 
 pursuits, and in the quarries and mines. About thirty 
 persons are employed in a salmon-fishery at the mouth 
 of the Linnmill burn, where several stake-nets are placed. 
 The quantity of fish taken was formerly very consider- 
 able, but has, within the last few years, very much 
 diminished ; the lessee of the fishery pays a rent of £60 
 per annum, and the whole produce is estimated at about 
 £200. Facility of communication is afforded by the
 
 AB E R 
 
 A B E R 
 
 turnpike-road from Queensferry to Linlithgow ; the 
 Union canal intersects the southern portion of the parish, 
 and the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, which pursues 
 a direction parallel with the canal, frequently approaches 
 within a few yards of its line. At Society, in the parish, 
 is a small bay, where vessels with coal land their car- 
 goes on the beach, and occasionally take back lime. 
 There are two corn-mills propelled by water, and a saw- 
 mill has been built on the Nethermill burn. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Linlithgow and synod of Lothian and 
 Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is £188. 15. 2., with 
 a manse, and the glebe is valued at £16 per annum; 
 patron, the Earl of Hopetoun. Abercorn church, a very 
 ancient building, was enlarged at the time of the Reform- 
 ation ; it is an irregular building, but in 1838 was tho- 
 roughly repaired, previously affording very indifferent 
 accommodation. There is a place of worship for mem- 
 bers of the Free Church. The parochial school is well 
 conducted ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with a 
 house and garden, and the fees average about £40 per 
 annum. A parochial library was established in 1833, 
 but it was superseded in 1844 by a parish church library, 
 which contains upwards of 300 volumes. 
 
 ABERCROMBIE, or St. Monan's, a parish, in the 
 district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 2 miles (W. 
 by S.) from Pittenweem ; containing 1157 inhabitants, 
 of whom 1029 are in the town of St. Monan's. This 
 parish, which appears to have been a distinct parish since 
 the middle of the twelfth century, is in ancient docu- 
 ments invariably called Abercrombie, or Abercrumbin ; 
 but towards the close of the year 1647, on the annexation 
 of the barony of St. Monan's, previously in the adjoin- 
 ing parish of Kilconquhar, it obtained the latter appella- 
 tion, by which, till within the last thirty or forty years, 
 it was generally designated. It is bounded on the 
 south by the Firth of Forth, and is about a mile and 
 a half in length from north to south, and a mile in 
 breadth from east to west. The surface rises abruptly 
 from the coast to the higher lands, which are agreeably 
 undulated, and the general appearance of the parish is 
 enriched and varied with thriving plantations. A small 
 rivulet called the Inweary, rising in the marshy lands of 
 Kilconquhar, intersects the parish, and, after a course of 
 nearly two miles, falls into the Firth near the church ; 
 while on the north-east flows the burn of Dreel, which, 
 after bounding that portion of the parish, falls also into 
 the river Forth at Anstruther Wester. 
 
 The soil is mostly a light and friable loam, partly 
 intermixed with clay, and generally very fertile ; the 
 system of agriculture is in an improved state, and the 
 crops are oats, barley, wheat, beans, potatoes, and tur- 
 nips. There is comparatively little land in pasture. 
 The substratum is chiefly sandstone and limestone, with 
 some till, of which the rocks on the coast principally 
 consist ; ironstone is found in great abundance on the 
 beach, and coal in various parts of the parish. In the 
 barony of St. Monan's are not less than six seams of 
 coal, of different thickness, varying from one foot and a 
 half to eighteen feet : they were formerly worked to the 
 depth of nearly thirty fathoms ; but from want of capi- 
 tal, they have been for some time discontinued. There 
 are also several seams in the lands of Abercrombie, 
 which have never been wrought. The limestone is of 
 excellent quality; but the depth from the surface ren- 
 5 
 
 dered the working of it unprofitable, and since the coal- 
 works have been discontinued, the quarries have been 
 altogether abandoned : the want of lime is, however, 
 supplied by the great quantities of sea-weed thrown 
 upon the shore, which is carefully collected for manure. 
 The ironstone is chiefly obtained in nodules from one 
 to two pounds in weight; it is found to contain from 
 twelve to eighteen hundred weight in the ton, and con- 
 siderable quantities are sent away as ballast by ship- 
 masters. Freestone is also found. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £2134. 
 
 Ecclesiastically, the parish is within the bounds of 
 the presbytery of St. Andrew's and synod of Fife ; 
 patron, the Crown. The stipend of the incumbent 
 amounts to £l62. 0. 11., of which about a fifth is re- 
 ceived from the exchequer ; the manse was rebuilt in 
 1796, and enlarged in 1819, and the glebe comprises 
 about twelve acres of good land. The church, formerly 
 the chapel of St. Monan, is said to have been originally 
 founded by David II., about the year 1370, and by him 
 dedicated to St. Monan, the tutelar saint of the place, 
 in gratitude for the deliverance of his queen and himself 
 from shipwreck on this part of the coast. It is a beau- 
 tiful specimen of the style prevailing at that period, and 
 forms a cruciform structure, with a square tower rising 
 from the centre, surmounted by an octagonal spire. 
 The nave had become a complete ruin, and had been 
 altogether removed ; the transepts were roofless and 
 dilapidated, and the choir, the only portion, except the 
 tower, which remained entire, was for many years used 
 as the parish church ; but in 182S, the building was 
 restored, with the exception of the nave ; the walls of 
 the transepts were raised to a height equal to that of 
 the choir, and the whole now forms one of the most 
 beautiful edifices in the country. It is adapted for a 
 congregation of 530 persons. The parochial school is 
 under good regulation ; the master has a salary of £34. 
 4. 4., and fees £34, with a house and garden. 
 
 At the north-east end of the parish, near the lands of 
 Balcaskie, are some remains of the ancient church of 
 Abercrombie, which, after the annexation of the barony 
 of St. Monan's, was abandoned as a place of worship ; 
 they are situated in a secluded and romantic spot, for- 
 merly the churchyard, and still the burying-place of the 
 Anstruther family, and of others. There are also some 
 remains of the old mansion-house of Newark, the an- 
 cient residence of the family of Sandiland, lords of the 
 barony, consisting of three stories. The northern part 
 is still in tolerable repair, but the other portion is roof- 
 less and much dilapidated ; the ground-floor contains 
 several apartments with vaulted roofs, and the upper 
 stories had, till lately, some comfortable rooms occupied 
 by servants belonging to the farm. The building is so 
 near a lofty rock rising precipitously from the sea-shore, 
 that there is scarcely room for a person to pass between 
 the cliff and the southern gable. Lieut.- General Sir 
 David Leslie, son of Lord Lindores, resided at Newark, 
 which he had purchased from the Sandiland family, and 
 was created Lord Newark in the reign of Charles II. ; 
 he distinguished himself greatly in the civil wars, and 
 was interred at this place. — See Monan's, St. 
 
 ABERDALGIE and DUPPLIN, a parish, in the 
 county of Perth, 3 miles (S. W.) from Perth ; contain- 
 ing 360 inhabitants. These two ancient parishes were 
 united in the year I6l8. They are beautifully situated on
 
 AB E R 
 
 AB E R 
 
 the northern side of the vale of Stratheam ; they measure 
 about three miles in length, from east to west, and two 
 miles and a half in breadth, comprising '3900 acres, of 
 which more than '2000 are under tillage, and the remain- 
 der wood and waste. The river Earn flows on the south, 
 and, with its picturesque windings through the strath, 
 and its banks ornamented with gentlemen's seats, good 
 farm-houses, and well-cultivated lands, forms a principal 
 feature in the interesting scenery of this locality. In 
 the direction of the river, the prospect is terminated by 
 the Ochil hills ; whilst towards the north, where the 
 higher lands of the parish gradually slope again in a 
 northern direction, appear the vales of the Almond, the 
 Tay, and Strathmore, the richly diversified views being 
 bounded by the Grampian mountains. The parish con- 
 sists of six large farms and three of smaller extent, 
 which are under the best system of husbandry. In the 
 northern district, where the climate is sharp and the 
 soil cold and tilly, the lands produce oats, barley, peas, 
 and beans ; in the southern portion wheat is much cul- 
 tivated, the greater warmth of the sun and the rich 
 loamy and clayey soil favouring its growth. Among the 
 many improvements in agriculture, wedge-draining has 
 been of great service on the wet cold grounds, and is 
 extensively practised : much benefit has also been de- 
 rived from the introduction of turnip husbandry, and 
 the increase in the growth of potatoes. The prevailing 
 rock is the old red sandstone, of which there are several 
 quarries. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £3871. Here is the handsome mansion of 
 Dupplin Castle, the seat of the Earl of Kinnoull, the 
 sole heritor. The former house was accidentally burnt 
 on the 11th of Sept., IS'27, and a new edifice was erected 
 on the same site, and completed about the year 1S3'2, 
 in the Elizabethan style, by the present earl, at a cost 
 of upwards of £30,000. The wood on the property is 
 exceedingly beautiful, extending over some hundreds of 
 acres, and comprising sweet and horse chesuuts, beech, 
 spruce, and Scotch fir, some of which are of large bulk 
 and stature. Dupplin Castle was visited by Her Majesty, 
 during her first tour in Scotland, on the 6th of Sept., 
 1842; she arrived here at two o'clock, and, after par- 
 taking of a sumptuous dejeuner, received a deputation 
 from the city of Perth, consisting of the provost, magis- 
 trates, and other authorities, who presented a loyal 
 address. There are considerable facilities of intercourse. 
 The old road from Perth to Stirling passes through the 
 northern declivity of the parish, and a new line running 
 along the plain below was finished in 1811, for the com- 
 mencement of which the Earl of Kinnoull advanced 
 £3000. On the sides of this road, many excellent 
 farm-houses have been built, and it has proved of great 
 advantage to the locality for the conveyance of lime and 
 manures, as well as for the export of general produce, 
 consisting chiefly of grain and potatoes, sent to Perth 
 and Ncwburgb. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Perth, synod of Perth and Stirling, and in the alternate 
 patronage of the Crown and the Earl of Kiunoidl : the 
 minister's stipend is £1,5". 19. 4., with a manse, and a 
 glebe of fourteen acres, including the site of the manse, 
 garden, &c. The present church of Aberdalgie was 
 built in 1773, and a vault was constructed under it for 
 the Hay-Druramond family, though their ancient burial- 
 place is at the church of Kinnoull. In the churchyard is 
 
 the burial-place of the Lords Oliphant, of Bachilton, for 
 centuries the feudal lords of Aberdalgie, and on the 
 outside is a large stone with a well-executed figure of 
 a warrior. The foundations of the old church of Dup- 
 plin are still remaining, within an inclosed churchyard. 
 The parochial school affords instruction in the ordinary 
 branches ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with a 
 house, and £14 fees. The Earl of Kinnoull takes the 
 title of Viscount Dupplin from this place. 
 
 ABERDARGIE, a village, in that part of the parish 
 of Abernethy which is in the county of Perth, 1 mile 
 (W.) of Abernethy ; containing 200 inhabitants. It is 
 pleasantly situated, and the road from Kinghorn to 
 Perth passes through the village. A part of the inha- 
 bitants, both male and female, are engaged in weaving 
 linen-yarn. 
 
 SEAL AND ARMS. 
 
 Reverse. 
 
 ABERDEEN, a city, and sea-port town, the seat of a 
 university, the capital of the county of Aberdeen, and 
 the metropolis of the North of Scotland, 109 miles 
 (N. N. E.) from Edinburgh, and 511 (X. by W.) from 
 London ; containing, with parts of the parishes of Old 
 Aberdeen and Banchory-Devenick, 67,000 inhabitants. 
 This ancient city is by some historians identified with 
 the Devana of Ptolemy ; and according to an absurd 
 tradition, Gregory the Great, King of Scotland, is said 
 to have made the town a royal burgh. Little of its 
 authentic history is known prior to the reign of Malcolm 
 III. ; and the first traces of its having attained any 
 importance are found in a charter granted at Perth, by 
 U'Uliam the Lion, conferring on the inhabitants the pri- 
 vilege of free trade, as fully as their ancestors had en- 
 joyed that liberty in the time of Malcolm : the same 
 monarch, by a second charter, dated 28th of Aug., 1 179, 
 granted them exemption from tolls and customs in all 
 markets and fairs within his kingdom. About this time, 
 Esteyn, one of the Norwegian kings, in a piratical ex- 
 cursion along the British coast, landed at this place, and 
 plundered the town, which had attained sufficient im- 
 portance to attract the notice of the sovereign, who 
 erected for his occasional residence, when visiting here, 
 an edifice near the east end of the present Green, 
 which he afterwards bestowed on the monks of the 
 Holy Trinity, who had recently been introduced into 
 Scotland. William also established an exchequer and a 
 mint, near the south end of the modern Castle-street, 
 where money was coined during his reign. Alexander 
 II. on various occasions made protracted visits to the 
 town ; and about the year 1222, in company with 
 his sister, the Princess Isabella, he celebrated the fes- 
 tival of Christmas here : he subsequently built, on
 
 A B E R 
 
 A B E R 
 
 the site now occupied by Gordon's Hospital, a convent 
 for Dominician or Black friars. This monarch, by a 
 charter to the burgesses, confirmed all the privileges 
 bestowed by his predecessors, to which he added the 
 grant of a weekly market, and the right of establishing 
 a merchant guild. In 1244, the town was nearly de- 
 stroyed by an accidental fire, which burnt many of the 
 houses, at that time built chiefly of wood ; and about 
 the year 1260, it suffered materially from a similar 
 calamity. Alexander HI., by charter dated at Kintore, 
 in 1274, granted to the burgesses the privilege of an 
 annual fair, to continue for fourteen days. The town, 
 however, had made but little progress in commerce ; 
 though, as a sea-port, it had obtained a reputation for 
 the curing of fish, of which its rivers and the sea 
 afforded ample supplies for the use of the inhabitants, 
 and also for exportation. 
 
 Aberdeen, after it had recovered from the devastation 
 it had suffered from fire, was defended by a strong 
 castle, and by gates at the entrances of the principal 
 streets ; and the inhabitants, who in every time of 
 danger were distinguished by their undaunted courage 
 in resisting the attacks of its enemies, in all cases of 
 assault were headed by their chief magistrate, who 
 invariably acted as their captain. In the wars which, 
 after the death of Alexander III., arose from the dis- 
 puted succession to the throne, the city had its full 
 share of vicissitude and of the troubles of that distracted 
 period. Edward, King of England, to whom the arbi- 
 tration of the contest had been referred, though he 
 appointed John Daliol to the Scottish throne, yet con- 
 sidered himself entitled to the sovereignty, and taking 
 advantage of the internal hostilities which prevailed, 
 invaded Scotland with a powerful army, and made him- 
 self master of the southern portion of the kingdom. 
 Having dethroned Baliol, he advanced with his forces to 
 Aberdeen, and, securing possession of the castle, placed 
 in it an English garrison, ^Jvhich held the town and 
 neighbourhood in subjection. On the approach of 
 H'illiam Wallace to the relief of the citizens, the En- 
 glish reinforced the garrison, plundered and set fire to 
 the town, and embarked on board their ships. Wallace, 
 after besieging the castle without success, retreated to 
 Angus, and having sustained various reverses, was 
 betrayed into the hands of Edward, and conveyed 
 prisoner to London, where he suffered death as a 
 traitor ; and his body being quartered, one of his 
 mangled quarters was exposed on the gate of the castle 
 here, to intimidate his followers in this part of the 
 country. Robert Bruce, in asserting his right to the 
 Scottish throne, experienced many privations, and was 
 reduced to the necessity of taking refuge, with his wife 
 and children, among the mountains of Aberdeenshire ; 
 but having mustered a considerable force, which was 
 augmented by the citizens of Aberdeen, who embraced 
 his cause, he gave battle near the hill of Barra, and 
 obtained a victory over the English, who were under 
 the command of Comyn, Earl of Buchan, and Mowbray, 
 the English leader. According to Boece, the citizens, 
 flushed with this success, returned to the town, assaulted 
 the castle, which they took by storm, and put the 
 garrison to the sword ; and to prevent its falling again 
 into the hands of the enemy, they demolished the 
 fortifications. The English in the vicinity assembled 
 their forces, and assaulted the city ; but the townsmen, 
 7 
 
 led on by Eraser, their provost, repulsed them with con- 
 siderable slaughter. In reward of their patriotism and 
 valour on this occasion, the king granted the city new 
 armorial-bearings, with the motto Bon Accord, their 
 watchword on that memorable occasion ; and after the 
 battle of Bannockburn, being firmly seated on the 
 throne, he gave the citizens several charters, some 
 ample donations of lands, and the forest of Stocket, with 
 all the privileges attached to it, reserving to himself only 
 the growing timber, with the right of hunting. In 1319 
 he honoured the town with a visit. 
 
 Subsequently to the death of Robert Bruce, and 
 during the minority of his son David II., a civil war 
 broke out in the country ; and Edward III. of England, 
 who, with the exception of Aberdeen, had all the Scottish 
 fortresses in his possession, invaded the kingdom to 
 assert his right to the sovereignty. While triumphant 
 in the southern districts of the kingdom, Sir Thomas 
 Roscelyn, one of his knights, landed a body of forces at 
 Dunnottar, with which he advanced to Aberdeen : the 
 citizens, taking arms, met the invaders on the Green, but 
 were defeated with considerable loss, though Roscelyn 
 fell in the encounter ; and the town was given up to 
 plunder, and set on fire by the English. David 11. , who 
 during these troubles had remained in France, returned 
 with his queen, and having regained his kingdom, held 
 his first parliament in Aberdeen, which he occasionally 
 made his residence. He confirmed to the citizens all 
 the grants which his father had conferred, and gave 
 them every assistance in rebuilding their town, which 
 thence took the appellation of New Aberdeen, though of 
 much greater antiquity than the Kirktown of Seaton, 
 since that period called Old Aberdeen. 
 
 After the expulsion of the English from Scotland, 
 Aberdeen began to flourish as a place of commerce, and 
 was represented in parliament. In a parliament held at 
 Edinburgh, in 1357, to concert measures for the ransom 
 of the Scottish king, David II., who since the battle of 
 Neville's Cross had been detained prisoner in England, 
 the city ranked as the fourth in the kingdom, and 
 became joint guarantee for the payment of the stipulated 
 sura. The king, on his return to Scotland, took up his 
 residence in the town, which he frequently afterwards 
 visited, and which, in a subsequent parliament, appeared 
 as the first city on the roll, after Edinburgh. Robert II., 
 the first of the race of Stuart, assembled a parliament 
 in the town, in order to plan a hostile incursion into 
 England ; and granted various privileges to the city, 
 which was at that time the residence of several branches 
 of the royal family, among whom were the Princess 
 Matilda, sister of King David, and Christian, sister of 
 King Robert Bruce. The trade of the port had now 
 become considerable, and consisted chiefly in wool, 
 hides, tallow, coarse woollen-cloth, cured salmon and 
 other fish, which were exported to England, France, 
 Holland, Flanders, and Hamburgh, whence there were 
 imported linen, fine woollen-cloth, wines, oil, salt, soap, 
 dye-stuffs, spices, hardware, iron, armour of various 
 kinds, malt, wheat, and numerous other articles. Du- 
 ring the regency of the Duke of Albany, in the time of 
 Robert III., Donald, Lord of the Isles, having entered 
 into an alliance with England, asserted a claim to. the 
 earldom of Ross, and raised an army of 10,000 men, 
 to obtain forcible possession of that territory ; on which 
 occasion the citizens of Aberdeen, headed by Sir Robert
 
 ABER 
 
 ABER 
 
 Davidson, their provost, joined the forces under the 
 Earl of Mar, which had been raised to oppose Donald, 
 Lord of the Isles ; and encountering the army of Donald 
 at Harlaw, about eighteen miles to the north of the city, 
 a sanguinary battle took place, in vshich Sir Robert and 
 many of the citizens were killed. The conflict termi- 
 nated with the day, neither party claiming the victory, 
 but in the course of the night the Highlanders retreated 
 to the mountains. The provost was buried in the 
 church of St. Nicholas, near the altar of St. Ann, which 
 his father had founded. The standard borne by the 
 citizens on the occasion of this battle was long preserved 
 in the armoury of the town. On the release of King 
 Jatnes, son of Robert III., who had been kept as a 
 prisoner in England during the regency, Aberdeen was 
 one of the four cities which became bound to pay the 
 English monarch £40,000, for his maintenance and 
 education while in captivity. After the murder of 
 James, in the year 143", the citizens chose for their 
 provost Sir Alexander Irvine of Drum, whom they 
 invested with the title of captain and governor of the 
 city ; and in the anarchy which prevailed during the 
 minority of Khig James II., they fortified the town, armed 
 themselves, and enforced the strictest military discipline. 
 In 1448, James II. made his first visit to the city, where 
 he was received with every demonstration of loyalty and 
 respect; and in 145.'), the same marks of attention were 
 paid his queen. 
 
 Upon the death of James III., at the battle of Sau- 
 chie-Burn, in 14SS, an attempt was made to rescue the 
 young prince from the power of a faction that had led 
 him into rebellion against his father, James III. ; in 
 which attempt the citizens concuired, attaching the 
 common seal of the corporation to their resolutions to 
 that effect. About the same time, Sir Andrew Wood, 
 admiral of Scotland, endeavoured to deprive them of 
 the lands of Stocket granted to them by King Robert 
 Bruce, but, on appeal to the sovereign, their possession 
 was confirmed by a decree of James IV., in 149*. This 
 monarch frequently visited the city, and, on one occa- 
 sion, remained here for a considerable time, while 
 making arrangements for the establishment of a univer- 
 sity, for which purpose he obtained from Pope Alex- 
 ander a bull dated the 6th of February, 1494. Under 
 an apprehension of invasion from England, in conse- 
 quence of the countenance afforded to Perkin Warbeck, 
 in the reign of Henry VII., by the Scottish monarch, 
 the citizens fortified the town, erected a blockhouse near 
 the mouth of the river, and threw up a breastwork as an 
 additional defence ; but a treaty for peace rendered 
 these preparations unnecessary ; and on the subsequent 
 marriage of James IV. with the Princess Margaret, 
 daughter of the English monarch, the council sent a 
 deputation of the citizens, attended by a band of min- 
 strels, to congratulate their sovereign. In the year 
 1 .6 1 1 , the queen visited Aberdeen, where she was received 
 with acclamations of joy ; and during her stay the chief 
 streets of the city were hung with tapestry and fancifully 
 adorned. The inhabitants, in 1513, contributed a com- 
 pany of spearmen, and a squadron of horse, towards the 
 expedition of Flodden Field, in which the king and many 
 of the Scottish nobility were killed. A few years after- 
 wards, in 15'25, Alexander Scton of Meldrum, in resent- 
 ment of a supposed affront to his clan, entered the city 
 at night, with a large party of his followers, and a battle 
 8 
 
 ensued, in which eighty of the citizens, including several 
 of the magistrates, were slain. In 1530, Lord Forbes of 
 Castle-Forbes, who had been in the habit of receiving 
 annually a tun of wine for preserving the fisheries of the 
 rivers Dee and Don, provoked by the discontinuance of 
 this present in consequence of a quarrel between his 
 sons and the citizens, entered the city with a numerous 
 retinue, and a fierce conflict arose, which terminated in 
 his complete defeat. On his giving security, how-ever, 
 for the future good conduct of his partisans, the magis- 
 trates renewed their accustomed present. In 1540, 
 James V., after the melancholy loss of his two sons in 
 one day, visited the city, attended by his queen and 
 court, to divert his grief, and remained for fourteen days ; 
 and the citizens fitted out a ship of war, to join the royal 
 squadron in the Firth of Forth, to convoy the king to 
 England, on a visit to Henry VIII. Upon the invasion 
 of Scotland by the Duke of Somerset, in 1547, the 
 citizens furnished a large supply of men to join the 
 queen's forces under the Earl of Arran, of whom very 
 few returned from the fatal battle of Pinkie ; and in 
 1552, the earl, who had been appointed regent during 
 the minority of Mary, attended by the queen dowager, 
 visited the town, and was hospitably entertained by the 
 citizens. 
 
 On the introduction of the Reformed religion, the 
 citizens were little disposed to receive it. At the solici- 
 tation of Gavin Dunbar, Bishop of Aberdeen, in 1525, a 
 manifesto was issued by the king, directing the magis- 
 trates of Aberdeen to inquire into the conduct of those 
 who maintained heretical opinions ; but it was not till 
 1544 that any attention was paid to that injunction, 
 when two Protestant citizens were committed to prison 
 by the Earl of Huntlj', then provost of the city, till they 
 should be brought to trial. In 1559, on the approach 
 of a body of Reformers called the Congregation, the 
 magistrates took the precaution of removing from the 
 church of St. Nicholas the sacred vessels, and ornaments, 
 with every thing of value, which they deposited, with 
 the archives of the town, in a place of security. On the 
 29th of December, in that year, a large party of Re- 
 formers from Angus and Mearns entered the city, re- 
 solved upon the destruction of the sacred edifices, and 
 commenced an attack on the spire of the church, which 
 they attempted to pull down. But the citizens, flying 
 to arms, arrested the work of demolition, and it was 
 not till the 4th of January following, that the Reform- 
 ers ventured to renew their efforts. They then pro- 
 ceeded to the monastery of the Black friars, in School- 
 hill, and the convent of the Carmelites, on the Green ; 
 and, having demolished those buildings and carried off 
 the property, advanced to the monastery of the Grey 
 friars, in Broad-street, stripped the church of its leaden 
 roof, and were about to demolish the building, when 
 the citizens again interposed and prevented further 
 injury. The citizens, notwithstanding, ultimately em- 
 braced the Reformed religion ; and in a meeting of the 
 council, it was resolved to demolish the monasteries, to 
 convert the materials to the public use, and to sell the 
 silver, brass, and other ornaments, which had been re- 
 moved from the church of St. Nicholas, and place the 
 proceeds in the common fund of the city. It was re- 
 solved, also, to furnish forty men for the service of the 
 Congregation, and to use all their efforts for the sup- 
 pression of idolatry ; and Adam Heriot, friar of the
 
 ABER 
 
 ABER 
 
 order of St. Augustine, and a brother of the abbey of 
 St. Andrew, having renounced the errors of popery, 
 was appointed by the General Assembly minister of 
 Aberdeen, which office he held till his death. In 1562, 
 M.\RY, Queen of Scots, in her progress through the 
 north, visited Aberdeen, where she was hospitably en- 
 tertained, and during her stay was waited upon by Lady 
 Huntly, who, interceding for her son Sir John Gordon, 
 obtained his pardon, on condition of his confinement in 
 Stirling Castle during her majesty's pleasure. On his 
 way to that fortress, however, he escaped from his 
 guards, and returning to the north, appeared with a 
 body of 1000 horse, and was soon after joined by his 
 father, the Earl of Huntly. The queen's army, under 
 the command of the Earl of Murray, having come from 
 Inverness to Aberdeen, marched against the forces of the 
 Earl of Huntly and his son, over whom they gained a 
 complete victory ; the earl was killed, and his two sons, 
 Sir John and Adam Gordon, with many others, were 
 brought prisoners to Aberdeen, where Sir John Gor- 
 don, two days after the battle, was beheaded in Castle- 
 street. 
 
 In 1581, James VI. paid a visit to Aberdeen, on 
 which occasion the citizens presented him with 3000 
 merks in gold; and in 15S9, that monarch, attended by 
 his court, remained in Aberdeen for some time, during 
 which butts for the practice of archery were erected on 
 Castle-hill, for their amusement. In the same year, the 
 citizens fitted out a ship of war, to join the squadron 
 intended to convoy the king and queen, on their return 
 from Denmark. In 159'2, the king again visited the 
 city ; and though welcomed by the usual presents, he 
 took a bond from the magistrates that they would not 
 confederate with the Earl of Huntly, nor join with 
 Jesuits, priests, or rebels, but faithfully observe the 
 true doctrines of the Reformed religion. On the defeat 
 of the royal forces in Banffshire, in 1594, the king re- 
 paired to Aberdeen, where, raising a body of troops, he 
 was joined by Lord Forbes and other barons, against 
 the popish Lords Errol, Angus, Huntly, and others ; 
 and in 1600, the inhabitants celebrated the escape of 
 their sovereign from the conspiracy of the Earl of 
 Ruthven, by a public procession, and presented an 
 address, composed in Latin by the rector of the gram- 
 mar school, expressing their abhorrence of the attempt 
 on his life. In 16 17, after his accession to the throne 
 of England, James VI. visited his native country, and 
 the magistrates of Aberdeen received intimation that 
 he would visit their city, in his progress through the 
 north ; but their expectations were not fulfilled. In 
 1620, Sir Thomas Menzies, provost of the city, was 
 sent on a mission to the court of London, and on his 
 introduction presented to the king a valuable pearl, 
 which, it is said, has a place in the imperial crown of 
 Great Britain. 
 
 The city sent a deputation to express to Charles I., 
 on his landing in Scotland, a testimony of their affec- 
 tionate loyalty. At this time, the Covenant, which had 
 obtained almost universal subscription, found but little 
 support in Aberdeen ; and the citizens, firmly attached 
 to their sovereign, acquiesced in all his endeavours to 
 establish episcopacy. In 1638, the Earl of Montrose, 
 the Lords Coupar, Forbes, and others, with the ministers 
 of Irvine and Pitsligo, appeared in the town, as com- 
 missioners from the General Assembly, and called upon 
 Vol. I.— 9 
 
 the citizens to subscribe the Solemn League and Cove- 
 nant. Failing in their object, they took their departure, 
 and the Assembly held a court at Glasgow, at which 
 they ordered the Covenant to be subscribed, on pain of 
 excommunication : this order was generally obeyed, and 
 the whole country became subject to the Covenanters, 
 with the exception of Aberdeen, which, under the 
 influence of the Marquess of Huntly, a zealous adherent 
 of the reigning monarch, still held out. In this state of 
 affairs, the citizens placed the town in a posture of de- 
 fence : the provost and sixteen of the principal citizens 
 formed a council of war ; a vessel laden with arms and 
 warlike stores arrived in the harbour from England, 
 and every preparation was made to resist an attack. 
 The Earl of Montrose, at the head of an army of 
 Covenanters, made his appearance in the neighbour- 
 hood, and advanced to the town with a force of 9000 
 horse and foot, which he encamped on the links of 
 Aberdeen ; while the Earl of Kinghorn, who had been 
 appointed governor of the town, had only a garrison of 
 1800 for its defence. After some time, the Earl of 
 Montrose withdrew his army to Inverury ; but, again 
 encamping on the links, the citizens ultimately sub- 
 scribed the Covenant, and four of them were appointed 
 by Montrose as commissioners to the General Assembly 
 at Edinburgh. During the progress of the civil war, 
 the town suffered materially from all parties, as they 
 became successively predominant, and was exposed to 
 continual vicissitudes. The last battle that occurred 
 here was in 1646, in which year Major Middleton, 
 arriving in the town, took the command of the Cove- 
 nanters' army, against the Marquess of Huntly and 
 the Earl of Aboyne, when it fell an easy conquest to the 
 marquess, who was, however, soon after seized by the 
 Covenanters, and sent, with many others, to Edinburgh, 
 where he was put to death. Charles II., on his return 
 from the continent, was received in Aberdeen with 
 every feeling of attachment ; the keys were delivered to 
 him by the provost, and he remained in the town for 
 more than a week. On his restoration in I66O, the 
 citizens testified their joy by a public procession, and 
 sent a deputation to London, to present a congratulatory 
 address. 
 
 In 1668, the city raised a corps of 120 men, in aug- 
 mentation of the militia ; and on the subsequent accession 
 of James II. and of IVilliam III., the inhabitants duly 
 testified their loyalty. The accession of Queen Anne, 
 daughter of James II., was proclaimed here with public 
 rejoicings ; and on the union of the two kingdoms, in 
 1707, Aberdeen, in conjunction with the burghs ot 
 Arbroath, Montrose, Brechin, and Bervie, sent a mem- 
 ber to the united parliament. Soon after the accession 
 of George I., the Earl of Mar, a zealous adherent of the 
 exiled family, assembled some forces at Braemar, in the 
 highland districts of Aberdeenshire, and proclaimed the 
 Chevalier de St. George, son of James II. (or James VII. 
 of Scotland), sovereign of Britain by the title of 
 James VIII., and levied an army of 10,000 men for his 
 support. The magistrates of Aberdeen, who were zea- 
 lously attached to the reigning family, put the city in a 
 state of defence ; but the partisans of the Pretender, 
 having gained an ascendancy, assumed the civil govern- 
 ment, and the earl-marischal, arriving soon after with a 
 squadron of horse, proclaimed the Pretender at the 
 Cross, on the day for the election of the city officers. 
 
 C
 
 A BE R 
 
 A B E R 
 
 The magistrates and council absented themselves, with- 
 out making any election for the ensuing year; and on 
 the day following, the earl-niarischal, in the East church, 
 chose such of the burgesses as were favourable to his 
 cause, and formed an administration for the government 
 of the city. The earl levied an imposition of £200 for 
 the use of the Pretender's army, and £2000 as a loan, 
 which, with other supplies, were sent to his head-quarters 
 at Perth. The Pretender soon afterwards arriving, with 
 a retinue of six gentlemen, from France, landed at 
 Peterhead, and passed incognito through Aberdeen to 
 Fetteresso, on his way to Perth, where he was received 
 by the Earl of Mar and the earl-marischal ; the pro- 
 fessors of Marischal and King's Colleges having waited 
 upon him at Fetteresso, with an address of congratula- 
 tion. The royal army, however, under the Duke of 
 Argyll, was every day increasing in numbers, while that 
 of the Pretender was rapidly diminishing, and was 
 eventually dispersed ; the administration of the city 
 returned into its proper channel, and the election of the 
 magistrates, which had been interrupted by this rash 
 adventure, was made as usual. In 1*16, a fire broke 
 out at the Gallowgate, which very soon extended itself 
 to other parts of the town ; many houses were destroyed, 
 and the council made a liberal contribution for the relief 
 of the sufferers. This calamity was not long after fol- 
 lowed by apprehensions of a famine, from a continued 
 state of unfavourable weather ; to counteract this evil, 
 the magistrates and council, with the neighbouring 
 gentry, supplied the town with 4000 bolls of meal, and 
 imported a considerable quantity of grain from Holland. 
 In 1741, a fire broke out in Broad-street which de- 
 stroyed many houses, the dwellings being at that time 
 chiefly built of wood : and an act of council was soon 
 afterwards passed, enjoining that the outer walls of 
 all houses should be in future built of stone. The 
 city consequently began to assume a more regular and 
 handsome appearance. 
 
 On the landing of Charles Edward, eldest son of the 
 Pretender, in 17-15, the citizens firmly maintained their 
 allegiance to the reigning family ; and General Cope 
 embarked his forces at this place, previously to the 
 battle of Prestonpans. Hamilton, an exceedingly zealous 
 partisan of the adventurer, marched to Aberdeen, with 
 a detachment of the rebel army, on the day of election 
 of the town magistrates, and proclaimed Prince Charles 
 regent of the kingdom ; he compelled the magistrates 
 to attend him, and hberated the prisoners in the gaol. 
 In November, Lord Lewis Gordon, who had been ap- 
 pointed by the Young Pretender lord lieutenant of the 
 counties of Aberdeen and Banff, made his appearance in 
 the city, summoned the magistrates to attend him at the 
 town-house, and completed the election which had been 
 suspended on the arrival of Hamilton : he appointed 
 magistrates whom he thought likely to promote his 
 views, but they all refused to act ; and made his deputy 
 lieutenant-governor of the town. Soon afterwards. 
 Lord John Drummond arrived in the city, as com- 
 mander-in-chief of the forces of His Most Christian 
 Majesty, and published a manifesto at the market-cross, 
 calling on the citizens for their support ; but it received 
 little attention. In the mean time, the Earl of Loudon, 
 commander-in-chief of the royal forces, having assem- 
 bled an army of Highlanders, consisting of the clans of 
 the M'Leods, Monroes, Sutherlands, and others, ad- 
 10 
 
 vanced to Aberdeen, to deliver the city from the posses- 
 sion of the rebels ; but Gordon, who had gone out to 
 intercept them, meeting with some success, returned to 
 Aberdeen with several prisoners, among whom was the 
 principal of Marischal College, and levied a contribution 
 of £1000 for the maintenance of the rebel army. On 
 the Sth of February, 1746, a party of the rebels, flying 
 from before the army under the Duke of Cumberland, 
 arrived in the city ; but they were soon followed by the 
 whole of the royal forces, who were cantoned in the 
 town, in Old Aberdeen, and the neighbouring villages ; 
 and on the '27th, the duke, with his entire staff, and a 
 company of dragoons, made his appearance here, and 
 was congratulated by the provost and magistrates on his 
 success. The army remained in their quarters till the 
 beginning of April ; and upon their departure, the city 
 was protected by a garrison, and the newly-erected 
 buildings of Gordon Hospital were occupied as a tempo- 
 rary fort. After the battle of Culloden, the magistrates 
 voted the freedom of the city to the Duke of Cumber- 
 land, which was presented to him in a box of gold. On 
 the anniversary of the accession of George I., some of 
 the officers of the army quartered in Aberdeen ordered 
 a general illumination, which not being so fully complied 
 with as they expected, orders were given to their soldiers 
 to break the windows of the houses of the inhabitants. 
 Upon this occasion, the magistrates issued a warrant 
 for the apprehension of the officers who had issued those 
 orders, and committed them to prison, till they gave 
 security for the reparation of the damage. 
 
 The coronation of George III. w-as celebrated here with 
 great rejoicings; and soon after the commencement of the 
 American war, the city raised a corps of 500 volunteers 
 for the defence of the town and port, and offered to pro- 
 vide a regiment for the service of government : in 1*81, 
 it fitted out three privateers, two of which were cut 
 out of the bay of Aberdeen, where they were riding at 
 anchor, by the notorious Captain Fall, under the guns 
 of the newly-erected battery. During the scarcity that 
 prevailed in 17S2, the magistrates raised large sums of 
 money for the alleviation of the sufferings of the poor ; 
 and in cases of shipwreck, of which many melancholy 
 instances have occurred off this part of the coast, they 
 have always been remarkable for the liberality of their 
 contributions of relief. In 1809, from the increase of 
 the trade and shipping of the port, it was found neces- 
 sary to extend and improve the harbour, a work which 
 was shortly proceeded with under the superintendence 
 of the late Mr. Telford, the eminent engineer ; and sub- 
 sequently, many changes have been made in the build- 
 ings and plan of the city. New streets have been 
 opened ; the public roads and approaches have been 
 greatly improved ; several handsome public buildings 
 have been erected, and the whole being built of the 
 beautiful species of granite peculiar to this part of the 
 country, the city presents an appearance of splendour 
 and magnificence fully entitling it to the appellation of 
 the metropolis of the north. 
 
 In the month of September, 1848, Her Majesty the 
 Queen, Prince Albert, the Prince of Wales, Prince 
 Alfred, and the Princess Royal, with their attendants, 
 visited the city on their way to Balmoral, in Strathdee. 
 The royal yacht arrived here on the morning of Thurs- 
 day, the 7th of September ; and at half past one o'clock, 
 the provost and magistrates of the city proceeded from
 
 ABER 
 
 A B E R 
 
 the town-house to the yacht for the purpose of present- 
 ing a dutiful address to Her Majesty, and the freedom 
 of the city to her royal consort. A deputation from the 
 senatus academicus of Marischal College was also in 
 attendance, for the purpose of presenting an address 
 from the university. Later in the afternoon. His Royal 
 Highness visited Old Aberdeen, halting at King's Col- 
 lege, where the Earl of Aberdeen, as chancellor of the 
 university of King's College, and the professors of this 
 ancient seat of learning, were in waiting to receive the 
 party at the entrance : an address from the senatus was 
 presented to the prince in the college hall by Lord Aber- 
 deen, and Provost Nicoll presented an address from the 
 magistrates of Old Aberdeen. After visiting the library 
 and chapel, His Royal Highness walked from the college 
 to the old cathedral, and was there received by the 
 reverend minister of the parish, who conducted him 
 through the edifice. The royal party then returned to 
 New Aberdeen, and paid a visit to Marischal College : 
 here an address was also presented, and the prince 
 inspected the library, museum, and observatory of the 
 university. The polished-granite works of Messrs. Mc 
 Donald and Leslie were next visited ; and at about half 
 past five o'clock. His Royal Highness rejoined the queen 
 in the royal yacht. In the course of the evening, Her 
 Majesty received the principal and professors of King's 
 College in the saloon of the yacht ; also the provost and 
 magistrates of Old Aberdeen : and on the following 
 morning, the 8th of September, the corporate, ecclesias- 
 tical, and other authorities of Aberdeen took up their 
 appropriate positions for the public reception of her 
 Majesty on landing. At half past eight o'clock the 
 royal family quitted the yacht, and took their seats in 
 the royal carriage, a procession being formed, which 
 passed along the quay, and through the city. On ar- 
 riving at the confines of the city at Holburn, the magis- 
 trates and other city officials drew aside, and the car- 
 riages of the royal party proceeded on their way to 
 Balmoral, which was reached in the afternoon, after a 
 progress marked with the most lively demonstrations of 
 loyalty and affection. On the occasion of this visit, His 
 Royal Highness Prince Albert was invested with the free- 
 dom of Old Aberdeen, as well as that of Aberdeen ; and 
 also had the degree of LL.D. conferred upon him by the 
 senatus academicus of King's College. 
 
 This TOWN, which, on its being restored from the de- 
 vastation it suffered during the wars with England, ob- 
 tained the name of New Aberdeen, is situated on slightly 
 elevated ground on the north bank of the river Dee, 
 near its influx into the sea, and about a mile and a half 
 from the mouth of the river Don. It is bounded on the 
 south by the harbour, and on the cast by the Castle-hill. 
 The more ancient part is built on a very unequal surface, 
 consisting of several hills of trifling elevation, of which 
 the Castle-hill, St. Katharine's hill, School-hill, 'Woolman- 
 hill, and Port-hill are the most prominent. At the 
 entrances from the suburbs into the principal streets 
 were formerly gates, the chief of them being Gallowgate, 
 Justice-port, Futtie's-port, Trinity or Quay-head port, 
 Netherkirkgate-port, and Upperkirkgate-port, all of 
 which have been removed in the various improvements 
 effected at different times. The present town is rather 
 more than a mile in length, from the barracks on the 
 east to the extremity of Union-street on the west, and 
 about 1500 yards in breadth, from the quays on the 
 11 
 
 south to Love-lane on the north. The more modern 
 part, forming by far the greater portion, consists of spa- 
 cious and well-formed streets, of which Union-street, 
 extending from the west end of Castle-street to the 
 western extremity of the town, is seventy feet wide, and 
 is carried over the Denburn rivulet, and the vale through 
 which it flows, by a magnificent bridge of granite. This 
 bridge consists of one spacious arch, 150 feet in span, 
 and 50 feet in height, crowned with a parapet and cor- 
 nice surmounted by an open balustrade, and having a 
 rise of twenty-nine feet only from the spring of the arch, 
 on the west side of which is a dry arch, and on the east 
 two drj' arches, to raise the street to a proper level. Two 
 streets, also, have been arched over for the line of Union- 
 street ; and carriages highly loaded can pass under the 
 arches with ease. King-street, leading from Castle- 
 street towards the north, is a fine street, sixty feet in 
 width ; and St. Nicholas street, branching from Union- 
 street to the north, is also a handsome and spacious « 
 street. During the latter part of the last century, a 
 number of new streets were opened, of which the prin- 
 cipal are Virginia-street, Tannery-street, North-street, 
 Marischal-street, Belmont, Queen, James, Carmelite, 
 George, and St. Andrew's streets ; and since the com- 
 mencement of the present century, the area of the town 
 has been at least doubled. The houses, built of fine 
 granite, with which the neighbourhood abounds, have 
 a splendid appearance ; and the city generally, from the 
 style and character of its buildings, wears a command- 
 ing aspect. 
 
 Aberdeen was at first lighted with gas extracted from 
 oil, by a company established in IS'24; but finding it 
 an unprofitable undertaking, they afterwards had re- 
 course to coal-gas, in the production of which the best 
 parrot-coal is used, and the streets are now brilliantly 
 lighted with gas, carefully purified, and conducted by 
 cast-iron pipes, of which the aggregate length exceeds 
 forty-eight miles : the works are extensive, and conve- 
 niently situated in the lower part of the town. The inha- 
 bitants were originally supplied with water from wells 
 sunk in various parts of the town, and from a cistern in 
 Broad-street, containing more than 30,000 gallons. The 
 quantity, however, being found inadequate to the in- 
 creasing population, works were constructed by com- 
 missioners for bringing a supply from the river Dee, 
 and steam-engines erected at the north end of the bridge 
 of Dee, to which the water is conveyed by a tunnel about 
 500 yards in length, into which it enters, not directly 
 from the river, but after passing through a filtering bed 
 of sand. The engines, two in number, of thirty-horse 
 power each, can raise in twenty-four hours a supply of 
 1,100,000 gallons; and the water is thence forced into 
 a cistern at the west end of Union-place, 40 feet above 
 the level of the street, and l.'JO feet above that of the 
 engine, from which cistern the water is distributed 
 through the city by cast-iron pipes. The management 
 of the supply of water, and also of the lighting, watching, 
 and cleansing of the streets, is vested in the commis- 
 sioners of police. 
 
 The approaches have been rendered commodious, and 
 much improved in appearance ; the great north road 
 from Stonehaven, the road from Charlestown on the 
 north side of the Dee, the road from Skene, and the 
 o-reat roads from the north and north-west, all meet in 
 the centre of the town. The bridge over the Dee was pro- 
 
 C2
 
 A B E R 
 
 A B ER 
 
 jected in 148S, by Bishop Elphinstone, who, dying before 
 any considerable progress was made in its erection, left 
 a large sum of money for its completion, which was ap- 
 plied to that purpose by his successor. Bishop Dunbar, 
 who, on the opening of the bridge, in 1518, made over 
 to the magistrates and council ample funds for keeping 
 it in repair. It is a handsome structure of seven arches, 
 and had a chapel at the northern extremity, dedicated to 
 the Virgin Mary, which was destroyed at the Reforma- 
 tion, and at the other end a watch-tower, in which the 
 citizens mounted guard in times of danger. The greater 
 ])ortion of the bridge was rebuilt in 1722, and about 
 ten years ago it was nearly doubled in width, at an 
 expense of £7000 ; the whole charges at each period 
 were defrayed from the endowment left by the bishops, 
 and the funds are still unexhausted. Lower down the 
 river, where the banks are precipitously steep, an ele- 
 gant suspension-bridge has been constructed, at an 
 expense of £8000, raised by subscription, affording 
 faciUty of access to the city in that direction; and 
 communicating with Old Aberdeen is an interesting and 
 truly picturesque bridge over the Don, of one lofty arch, 
 the particulars of which are detailed in the article Old 
 Aberdeen. 
 
 In Castle-street, to the west of the town-house, is the 
 Cross, the pavement round which was formerly used as 
 an exchange, and frequented by the merchants of the 
 city. This structure was erected in 1686, to replace 
 the ancient cross, and is of hexagonal form, eighteen 
 feet in height : the faces, which are ten feet in breadth, 
 are ornamented with duplicated Ionic columns at the 
 angles, sustaining an entablature and cornice, surmounted 
 by a parapet and an open balustrade ; and from the 
 centre of the area, which is twenty-one feet in diameter, 
 rises a lofty Corinthian column, supporting a unicorn 
 bearing a shield with a lion rampant. The entrance 
 was once by a door in the north face, leading to a stair- 
 case forming an ascent to the platform, from which all 
 public proclamations were read. The entablature above 
 each of the faces is divided into two compartments, in 
 the western and eastern of which are respectively the 
 arms of the town and the royal arms of Scotland, and in 
 the others busts of the sovereigns from James I. of Scot- 
 land to James II. of England. A few years ago the 
 Cross was taken down, and rebuilt on a site farther to 
 the east than the former ; but the original structure was 
 carefully preserved, except that the masonry between 
 the supporting columns was removed, and the lower part 
 of the fabric thus thrown open. The Barracks stand 
 near the site of the ancient chapel of St. Ninian, on the 
 Castle-hill, which, together with all the ground within 
 the ramparts of the castle, was given to government for 
 that purpose, by the magistrates and council of the city. 
 They were erected in 179-*, at an expense of nearly 
 £18,000, and form a handsome range of buildings, con- 
 taining, exclusively of the officers' apartments, accom- 
 modation for 600 men, with guard-room, chapel, in- 
 firmary, and other requisites, and an ample ground for 
 parade. 
 
 The Mechanics' Institution was commenced in 1824, 
 for the improvement and instruction of its members, by 
 the delivery of lectures, at a moderate expense, on che- 
 mistry, natural philosophy, and other branches of sci- 
 ence. In a few years, it began to languish, and in 
 1830 it was found necessary to discontinue the lectures 
 12 
 
 The library, however, which at that time contained 
 nearly 1100 volumes on practical science, induced those 
 of the subscribers who remained, to supply funds for its 
 preservation ; and in 1835, the plan of the institution 
 was remodelled by the establishment of classes, upon 
 moderate terms, in the various branches of science and 
 literature, since which it has continued to flourish. 
 The Society of Advocates was incorporated by royal char- 
 ter in 17*4, and in 1*99 by a more extensive charter, 
 in which they are styled the " President and Society of 
 Advocates in Aberdeen," for the improvement of its 
 members in their profession, and for the establishment 
 of a fund for the relief of their widows, orphans, and 
 near relatives. The widows receive an allowance of £40 
 per annum. The society have a valuable law library of 
 1900 volumes, which is open to the use of all its mem- 
 bers ; and they have lately erected a spacious building 
 in Union-street, containing a handsome hall for holding 
 their meetings, a library, and other apartments. The 
 Medical Society was first instituted in 1*89, by a small 
 number of young practitioners, for their mutual im- 
 provement. They held their meetings in one of the 
 class-rooms of Marischal College, and subsequently in 
 apartments hired for that purpose, till, from the increase 
 of their numbers, and the acquisition of sufficient funds, 
 they erected the Medical Hall in King-street, which was 
 completed in 1820. It contains a hall for their public 
 meetings, a library of 3000 volumes on medical science, 
 to which the members have free access, and a museum, 
 with class-rooms and other apartments. The society 
 consists of two classes of members, one of practitioners 
 resident in the city and neighbourhood, who meet once 
 in the month for mutual communication ; and the other 
 of students of medicine, who meet weekly for the dis- 
 cussion of medical questions, and for attending lectures 
 on the various branches of the profession. 
 
 There are several subscription libraries, of which the 
 principal are those of Messrs. Brown and Co., D. Wyllie 
 and Son, and W. Russel ; they contain collections 
 amounting in the whole to about 60,000 volumes, and the 
 terms of subscription vary from fifteen shillings to 
 £1. 11. 6. per annum. The Athenaeum in Castle-street, 
 and the Union Club News-rooms in Union-street, are 
 well supported, and amply supplied with journals and 
 periodical publications. Card and dancing assemblies, 
 which are maintained by subscription, are held regularly 
 every month, during the winter season, in the spacious 
 rooms erected about thirty years ago. The Theatre, 
 situated on the west side of Marischal-street, was built 
 by subscription, in 1795, at an expense of £3000 ; it is 
 a handsome structure, capable of seating 600 spectators, 
 and is opened occasionally by itinerant companies, to 
 whom it is let by the subscribers. A weekly concert 
 was, for many years, conducted by a proprietary of 
 amateur and other subscribers, and a hall was erected 
 for its use, on the east side of Broad-street ; but the 
 concerts have long been discontinued. A Golf Club 
 was originally established in the vicinity, by a society of 
 gentlemen, in 1*80, which after its dissolution in the 
 course of a few years, was revived in 1815, under the 
 appellation of the Aberdeen Golf Club. It is under the 
 direction of a committee, consisting of a captain, secre- 
 tary, and four councillors, chosen annually at the general 
 meeting. The members are admitted by ballot, on pay- 
 ment of £1. 1., and an annual subscription of five
 
 A B E R 
 
 ABER 
 
 shillings ; and at the annual meeting, which takes place 
 in May, a gold medal is awarded to the most successful 
 player. A society for the practice of archery also once 
 existed, under the designation of the "Bowmen of Mar:" 
 in a short time, however, it dwindled away. Races were 
 formerly celebrated here, under the patronage of the 
 members of the Northern Shooting Club, who, in 1*90, 
 voted a piece of plate, of fifty guineas value, and the 
 magistrates also gave a purse of thirty guineas ; but they 
 were soon discontinued. After an interval of twenty 
 years, an association of the gentry of the counties of 
 Aberdeen, Banff, and Kincardine, was formed for their 
 revival ; and an excellent course was made on the links 
 of Aberdeen, where races took place annually in October, 
 until 1828, continuing for four days, under the superin- 
 tendence of a president and stewards, chosen from the 
 association. At one of the meetings, four silver cups, 
 value fifty guineas each ; a purse of sixty guineas, by 
 subscription of the ladies ; an open plate of fifty guineas, 
 by the corporation of the city; a silver cup, value 100 
 guineas, by the members of parliament for the counties; 
 and an open plate of fifty guineas, by the members for 
 the boroughs, were run for, and spiritedly contested. 
 
 A mineral spring called the Spa well, rising at the 
 base of Woolman-hill, near the site of the Infirmary, was 
 long celebrated for its efficacy in the cure of nephritic 
 diseases ; it appears to have been in repute from a re- 
 mote period, and was inclosed with a building orna- 
 mented with representations of six of the Apostles. In 
 1,516, it attracted the notice of Mr. William Barclay, an 
 eminent physician, who analyzed the water, which he 
 found to contain carbonate of iron and vitriol. The 
 building having fallen into dilapidation, was restored by 
 George Jamieson, the celebrated painter, but was after- 
 wards destroyed by an inundation of the Denburu 
 rivulet, and the spring remained concealed under the 
 ruins of the building, till 16*0, when it was discovered, 
 and the present building erected by Alexander Skene, of 
 Newtyle, then bailie of the town. It was again lost in 
 IZ'Jl, and subsequently discovered by Dr. James Gor- 
 don, long after which it continued to flow with its 
 accustomed freedom ; but from recent erections at the 
 infirmary, in the immediate neighbourhood, the water 
 has a third time disappeared. Baths were opened a 
 century ago on the east side of the Denburn vale, for 
 which there was a commodious bathing-house, with 
 dressing-rooms and every requisite ; they were amply 
 supplied with pure spring water, and, previously to the 
 establishment of those near the sea, numerously attended. 
 The beach on the sea-coast is a fine level sand, affording 
 every facility for bathing, and is much frequented during 
 the season, by visiters from different parts of the country ; 
 bathing machines are kept, and on the shore are warm 
 salt-water baths fitted up with every accommodation. 
 The environs of Aberdeen afford various interesting 
 walks and rides, through a district abounding with 
 romantic scenery. 
 
 The principal manufactures carried on in the town, 
 prior to 1745, were plaidings, serge, coarse woollen- 
 stuffs, and knit-stockings, of which last great quantities 
 were sent to Holland and Germany ; and to such per- 
 fection were the stockings made here brought, that those 
 of the finest wool were sold at from two to five guineas 
 per pair. The manufacture of coarse woollen-cloth was 
 also introduced about this period, but, after languishing 
 13 
 
 for a time was abandoned, towards the close of the 
 century. The Linen manufacture was originally intro- 
 duced in 1749, by a company from Edinburgh, for the 
 spinning of flax, the making of thread, and the weaving 
 and bleaching of cloth, all of which were soon brought 
 to a considerable degree of perfection. An extensive 
 mill for spinning flax was erected on the left bank of 
 the river Don, in 179S, and also works for bleaching 
 yarn and cloth. Another was soon after erected at Broad- 
 ford, near the town, the machinery of which was driven 
 by steam ; and there are now three extensive establish- 
 ments for the manufacture of linen of every quality, 
 from the coarsest Osnaburghs to the finest shirting, 
 and for the making of thread of every degree of fineness. 
 The manufacture of sail-cloth is also carried on, and 
 likewise that of brown sheeting, of which large quanti- 
 ties are sent to the East Indies and America. Tape is 
 woven to a large extent, by the Aberdeen Tape Com- 
 pany. The number of persons employed in the flax 
 manufacture is about 3000, of whom about one-half are 
 females. The Cotton manufacture was introduced in 
 1779, by Messrs. Gordon, Barron, and Company, who 
 established a spacious bleaching and printing field at 
 Woodside, where they also erected a large mill for 
 spinning cotton-yarn, and weaving by machinery put in 
 motion by the river Don. Another mill was soon after- 
 wards established by Messrs. Forbes, Low, and Com- 
 pany, on the south side of the Denburn rivulet ; the 
 machinery of which is propelled by steam. There are 
 now four establishments in the cotton trade, producing 
 every variety of cotton goods ; and in one of them, thread, 
 equal in quality and fineness to that of flax, is made in 
 large quantities and of all colours. The number of 
 persons employed in the trade is about 4000, of vvhom 
 a considerable number are women and children. The 
 M^oollen manufacture was introduced in 1789, by Mr. 
 Charles Baird, who brought from England some card- 
 ing-engines and spinning-jennies, with other apparatus, 
 and erected a mill at Stoneywood, for the manufacture 
 of plaiding, serge, and the coarser woollen-cloths, by 
 the aid of machinery. Several other factories were 
 soon afterwards established, and the Messrs. Haddens, 
 who had been long engaged in the stocking trade, 
 erected extensive works on the Green, in which they 
 employed the most improved machinery, propelled by 
 powerful steam-engines. The manufacture of carpets is 
 also carried on with success. The number of persons 
 employed in the woollen trade is about 2500. 
 
 The manufacture of Paper was introduced in the year 
 1770, at Peterculter, in the vicinity of Aberdeen, where 
 the business is still pursued ; and several mills were 
 subsequently established, of which the only one now 
 left is on the right bank of the river Don, for making 
 all the various kinds of paper, which, previously to the 
 establishment of these works, was imported from Hol- 
 land. The number of persons employed in the trade 
 is about 400. The manufacture of Combs, which had 
 been introduced in 1788, and carried on to a very mode- 
 rate extent, was in 1830 commenced upon a greatly en- 
 larged scale, by Messrs. Stewart, Rowell, and Company, 
 who first employed steam-power in the manufacture, 
 and introduced other improvements by which the articles 
 can now be produced almost at a sixth part of the 
 former cost. In this concern, about 250 persons are 
 employed, and the number of combs of all kinds made
 
 A B E R 
 
 ABE R 
 
 is about 43,000 weekly. The Iron manufacture is also 
 verj' extensive. There are not less than eight foundries 
 at present in active operation, in which the largest cast- 
 ings, and the heaviest articles, are produced ; and nume- 
 rous establishments are carried on for the manufacture 
 of machinery of all kinds, five of which are engaged in 
 the making of steam-engines. Iron boats are con- 
 structed in considerable numbers, and an iron vessel of 
 .550 tons' burthen has lately been launched from the 
 docks. There are also several establishments for the 
 manufacture of chains and chain-cables, and of boilers 
 for steam-engines. Above 1000 persons are generally 
 employed inthe iron trade. There are several Rope- 
 ivalks of large extent, for the supply of the shipping of 
 the port, and others on a smaller scale, for the making 
 of cord and twine for various uses, and to a great ex- 
 tent for the making of fishing-nets : the number of 
 persons in these works is about 200. Some breweries are 
 conducted on an extensive plan, from which considera- 
 ble quantities of ale and porter are sent to London and 
 other places, where they find a ready market ; and also 
 several upon a smaller scale, for the supply of the town 
 and neighbourhood. There are likewise tanneries in 
 operation here. The present extensive trade in Granite 
 appears to have originated with the Messrs. Adam, 
 architects, of London, who, having entered into a con- 
 tract for paving the metropolis, in 1*64, commenced 
 some quarries in the rocks on the sea-coast, near the 
 lands of Torrie, and brought the stone, when prepared, 
 to London. Finding this mode of supply, however, too 
 expensive, they employed the Aberdeen masons to fur- 
 nish them with stone ; and in a short time a very ex- 
 tensive trade was estabhshed, not only in paving-stones, 
 but in blocks of granite for public buildings and works 
 of great magnitude. Many of the largest blocks have 
 been sent to Sheerness, for the construction of the 
 docks at that place, and to London, for the erection of 
 bridges over the Thames, and the foundation of the new 
 houses of parliament. The granite, which is extremely 
 hard, and of great beauty when polished, has lately been 
 brought into extensive use for chimney-pieces, vases, 
 pedestals, and other ornamental works, by the applica- 
 tion of machinery to the purpose of polishing it, by 
 which the expense is reduced to about one-third of that 
 by hand labour. The quantity of granite exported in 
 1844, exceeded 27,400 tons. 
 
 Aberdeen carries on an extensive trade with Russia, 
 Sweden, Denmark, Poland, Prussia, Germany, Holland, 
 Spain, Portugal, and with the West Indies and America. 
 Its chief exports are oatmeal, grain, butter, eggs, sal- 
 mon, porter and ale, cattle, sheep, and pigs, linen, cot- 
 ton, and woollen manufactured goods, and granite ; the 
 chief imports are coal, lime, flax, cotton, hemp, wool, 
 iron, salt, timber, whalebone, wheat, and flour. The 
 number of vessels registered as belonging to the port, 
 in 1844, was 206, of the aggregate burthen of 38,000 
 tons. The tonnage of the several vessels which entered 
 the port in the same year, was 289,483, of which 
 257,703 belonged to Aberdeen, 27,540 to other British 
 ports, and 4240 to foreign ports ; and the amount of 
 duties paid at the custom-house was £76,259- The 
 H.\RBOUR was, for many j-ears, an open basin, with an 
 island in the centre called the Inches, which separated 
 the channel of the river from the harbour, on the north 
 side of it ; and the only building was the Uuay-head, 
 14 
 
 which, having become ruinous, was repaired in 1484, 
 and rebuilt in 152", with stone brought from Dundee. 
 A pier was built in 1607, which, in 1623, was extended 
 from the quay- head towards the fishing-village of 
 Futtie : by this means a considerable portion of land 
 was gained from the basin, and which now forms part 
 of the town. In 1*55, the magistrates and council 
 engaged Mr. John Smeaton, an eminent engineer, to 
 improve the harbour ; and in 1770, he proposed a stone 
 pier on the north side of the entrance, which, confining 
 the stream of the river within narrow limits, would re- 
 move a bank of sand accumulated there. In 17*3, an 
 act of parliament was obtained, and the improvements 
 on Mr. Smeaton"s plan were carried into full operation, 
 at a cost of £18,000. This pier was 1200 feet in length ; 
 it was twenty feet broad at the base, twelve on the sum- 
 mit, and sixteen feet in height, at the western extremity, 
 and gradually increased towards the east, where it was 
 thirty-six feet broad at the base, twenty-four on the 
 summit, and thirty feet high. It was faced with blocks 
 of granite, many of which weighed more than three tons 
 each. The pier, however, by a deviation from Mr. 
 Smeaton's original plan, being erected too far towards 
 the north, a great swell was occasioned in the harbour 
 at high water, to remedy which, a breakwater was pro- 
 jected from the west end of it, towards the channel of 
 the river, with complete effect. The harbour was fur- 
 ther improved by Mr. Telford, who, in 1810, extended 
 the original pier 900 feet further towards the east, 
 where it terminated in a circular head, sixty feet in dia- 
 meter, which was destroyed by the sea in the following 
 winter, and rebuilt with a slope towards the sea. A 
 breakwater 800 feet in length was also erected, on the 
 south side, by which the harbour was protected from the 
 south-east storms, and the depth of water increased to 
 nineteen feet. Commodious wharfs were formed along 
 the harbour, on the south-west side of the village of 
 Futtie, and quays nearly 4000 feet in length have been 
 constructed : the Inches, also, are now connected with 
 the town by a swivel-bridge opposite the end of 
 Marischal-street. In 1843 an act of parliament was 
 obtained for converting a large part of the harbour into 
 a wet-dock, and in 1847 an act was passed, as noticed 
 below, for some further harbour works. The custom- 
 house, situated on the Quay, is a neat building pur- 
 chased by government, and fitted up for the purpose ; 
 the establishment consists of a collector, comptroller, 
 land and tide surveyors, four land-waiters, twenty-eight 
 tide-waiters, six boatmen, and other officers. 
 
 Ship-buitdins is carried on to a considerable extent ; 
 there are six building-yards, and a patent-slip has been 
 constructed in the harbour, at an expense of £3337 : in 
 1S38, the number of vessels built in these yards was 
 twenty-three, and their aggregate burthen 4058 tons. 
 Four steam-packets, of the aggregate burthen of 1360 
 tons, and of SlO-horse power, have long continued to ply 
 to Leith, Inverness, Caithness, Orkney, and Shetland. 
 In 1827, a steam-packet of 550 tons, called the Queen 
 of Scotland, began to ply between Aberdeen and London, 
 since which, others have been added, which sail weekly 
 to London, and likewise one to Hull : these, together 
 with a vessel engaged in the London and Inverness 
 trade, belong to one company, whose steamers are 
 now five in number, of nearly 3900 tons' burthen, and 
 1420-horse power. There are also steamers to Dundee,
 
 A B E R 
 
 ABE R 
 
 and to Peterhead, during the summer. A Salmon-fishery 
 has been carried on here from a remote period, and 
 from the abundance of the supply afforded by the rivers 
 Dee and Don, it is still continued, on an extensive scale, 
 affording employment to about 200 persons. The 
 average number taken in a season, is 20,000 salmon 
 averaging ten pounds each, and 40,000 grilse of about 
 four pounds each, of which by far the greater por- 
 tion are packed in ice, and sent to the London 
 market. The Herring fishery, a pursuit of compara- 
 tively recent establishment, at present employs about 
 sixty boats, and, from the success with which it is 
 attended, has every prospect of being considerably in- 
 creased. The Whale fishery was first introduced here 
 in 1753, and for some time continued to prosper; in 
 1820 there were fifteen vessels employed in the trade, 
 each having a crew of fifty men, and in 1823 the quan- 
 tity of oil brought home was 1841 tons. From that 
 time, however, the trade began to decline, and it is now 
 nearly abandoned. 
 
 The Aberdeen Canal, from the harbour of Aberdeen to 
 the burgh of Inverury, was constructed by a company 
 of £.50 shareholders, who in 1/95 obtained an act of 
 parliament, incorporating them under the designation 
 of the " Proprietors of the Aberdeenshire Canal Naviga- 
 tion," and empowering them to raise a capital of £20,000, 
 which by a subsequent act, in 1801, was extended 
 to £40,000. It was completed at an expense of £43,895, 
 and opened to the public in I8O7. The whole line, from 
 the quay at this place to Port Elphinstone, on the river 
 Don, at Inverury, is I85 miles in length : the width on 
 the surface is 24 feet, and the average depth 3f feet ; it 
 has 1 7 locks, 5 aqueducts, and 56 common bridges, and 
 the highest summit level is 163 feet above low water 
 mark. 
 
 In 1845 an act of parliament was passed authorizing 
 the construction of the Aberdeen railway, from Aberdeen 
 to the Arbroath and Forfar line at Friockheim and at 
 Guthrie, in the county of Forfar, with branches to the 
 towns of Montrose and Brechin. This important line 
 of communication, connecting the city with the south of 
 Scotland and with England, leaves Aberdeen on the 
 south side, and in its progress round the basin of the 
 Dee, crosses the river by a majestic viaduct standing in 
 a skew line across the channel. It passes near the 
 towns of Stonehaven and Lawrencekirk, in Kincardine- 
 shire, through which county it takes its course into 
 Forfarshire, where it has branches to the towns of Mon- 
 trose and Brechin, the former on the east and the latter 
 on the west side of the main line. The whole railway 
 was permanently opened on April 1, 1850. In 1846 an 
 act was obtained for the construction of a line to be 
 called the Deeside railway, from Ferryhill, near Aber- 
 deen, to Charlestown of Aboyne, a distance of 29 miles, 
 along the valley of the Dee. Another act was passed 
 the same year, for a railway from Aberdeen to Inverness. 
 In 1847 an act of parliament was passed to authorize 
 the purchase for railway purposes of a piece of ground 
 at the upper part of the Inches, and upper part of the 
 harbour of Aberdeen, previously vested in the harbour 
 commissioners ; and to enable the commissioners to 
 construct some new harbour works. 
 
 The MARKET, which is amply supplied with corn, and 
 with provisions of all kinds, is on Friday, and on the 
 preceding day for meal : the market for fish, with which 
 15 
 
 the town is abundantly supplied, is daily. Fairs are 
 held on the last Wednesday in April for linen; on the 
 last Thursday and Friday in June, and the first Thurs- 
 day and Friday in July, for wool ; and on the last 
 Wednesday in August for timber. The butchers' market, 
 on the east side of the town, was erected by the corpo- 
 ration, in 1806, and consists of two ranges, having in 
 one thirty-eight stalls twelve feet square, with a pave- 
 ment four feet broad in front, and in the other forty- 
 eight stalls, each ten feet square : within the area are 
 fifteen slaughter-houses. Another market for butchers' 
 meat was formed in 1816, in the Lochlands, on the 
 north side of the town, containing forty-two stalls, 
 thirteen feet long, and twelve feet wide, with a pave- 
 ment in front five feet broad, and covered with a roof 
 supported on slender cast-iron pillars. The fish market 
 is held on the south side of the Shiprow, and is well 
 arranged and fitted up, with a view to prevent the ex- 
 posure of fish for sale in Castle-street. The meal, 
 poultry, and fruit and vegetable markets are situated 
 on the west side of King-street, and are amply supplied. 
 In the fruit market, great quantities of strawberries and 
 gooseberries, the produce of gardens in the neighbour- 
 hood of the town, are exposed to sale, frequently to the 
 amount of £1000 annually. On the 29th of September, 
 1840, the foundation stone was laid of a New Market, 
 the principal front of which is towards a street opened 
 about the same time between Union-street and the quay. 
 The structure is 318 feet in length, and 106 feet in 
 breadth, and is divided into two stories, the lower of 
 which is even with the old street called the Green, and 
 the upper has three spacious and elegant entrances from 
 Market-street. The hall, on the level of Market-street, 
 extends the whole length of the building ; it is fifty feet 
 in height and the same in breadth, and towards its west 
 end, near the top of the flight of steps leading to the 
 basement story, is a beautiful fountain of polished gra- 
 nite, the work of Messrs. Mc Donald and Leslie. The 
 roof of the hall is supported by fifty-eight pillars, and 
 between them and the outer walls are the galleries, 
 twenty-five feet broad, containing fifty-three shops and 
 160 yards of counter for dealers in small wares, besides 
 a space of fifty by twenty-eight feet at the east end, 
 occupied weekly as a grain market. In the hall, under 
 the galleries, are fifty-three shops, and in its area benches 
 upwards of 370 yards in extent for gardeners and pro- 
 vision sellers. The basement floor contains ninety shops, 
 and forty-three yards of tables for fishmongers. This 
 elegant building was designed by Mr. Archibald Simp- 
 son, a native of Aberdeen, and in every respect it does 
 credit to his acknowledged talents and good taste. 
 
 The GOVERNMENT of the city, under a succession of 
 charters from the reign of William the Lion to that of 
 Charles I., who greatly extended the privileges conferred 
 by his predecessors, which have been also confirmed 
 by subsequent monarchs, is vested in a provost, four 
 bailies, and eight councillors, assisted by a treasurer, 
 master of shore-works, master of kirk and bridge works, 
 master of the guild brethren's hospital, master of morti- 
 fications, and a dean of guild. There are seven incor- 
 porated trades, viz., the hammermen, bakers, wrights 
 and coopers, tailors, shoemakers, weavers, and fleshers. 
 The burgesses are entitled to numerous privileges, 
 among which are, freedom to trade, and exemption 
 from all tolls and customs on goods brought into the
 
 ABER 
 
 A B E R 
 
 town for their own use. The corporation are patrons of 
 the city churches, and of the professorships of mathe- 
 matics and divinity in Marischal College, and have the 
 presentation to thirty-six bursaries in that establish- 
 ment ; they are also patrons of the grammar-school, 
 and various other schools, and of the charitable endow- 
 ments in the city. Here are two classes of burgesses, 
 namely, burgesses of guild, who are entitled to trade 
 in all branches of merchandise, but not to exercise any 
 craft ; and freemen of the seven incorporated trades, 
 who have the privilege of exercising their respective 
 crafts. The fees paid by strangers on becoming guild 
 burgesses are £35, and by the sons of burgesses, £12 ; 
 the fees paid by strangers on becoming trade burgesses 
 are £11. 12. 2., and by sons of freemen, 10s. for the 
 eldest, and £1. 10. for the younger. The jurisdiction of 
 the magistrates extends over the whole of the city and 
 royalty, and they hold a bailie court every Saturday, for 
 civil actions to any amount, in which they are assisted 
 by an assessor, appointed for that purpose, who is gene- 
 rally an advocate of Aberdeen. The sheriff, however, 
 exercises a concurrent jurisdiction with the magistrates ; 
 and since the establishment of the sheriff's small-debt 
 court, the civil business of the bailie court has been very 
 much diminished. The police establishment is con- 
 sidered to be fully sufficient for all purposes connected 
 with its institution, and is under the control of com- 
 missioners elected by the nine wards into which the 
 police district was divided by the act of 1829. This city 
 was formerly the head of a district, including the burghs 
 of Arbroath, Montrose, Brechin, and Bervie, in con- 
 junction with which it returned one member to the im- 
 perial parliament. At present, Aberdeen of itself sends 
 a representative to the house of commons ; and the 
 right of election, previously in the magistrates and 
 council, is, by the Reform act, vested in the resident 
 £10 householders. The annual value of real property 
 in the six parishes of the city, assessed to the Income tax 
 for the year ending April, 1843, was £96,588 ; the amount 
 for the parish of Old Aberdeen was £67,192. 
 
 The Toicn House, built at various periods, is situated 
 on the north side of Castle-street, and has undergone 
 frequent alterations : in 1750 the appearance of the 
 front was greatly improved. It has five spacious and 
 handsome windows, and above the roof is a tower sur- 
 mounted by a spire 120 feet in height. The town-hall is 
 about forty-seven feet in length, and twenty-nine feet 
 wide, and is embellished with an elegant mantel-piece of 
 variegated marble, executed in Holland, above which is 
 a perspective view of the city, taken from the lands of 
 Torrie. The walls of the apartment are hung with a 
 full-length portrait of Queen Anne by Sir Godfrey 
 Kneller, and full-length portraits of the Earl and 
 Countess Findlater by Alexander ; a portrait of Provost 
 James Hadden by Pickersgill, and one of Provost James 
 Blaikie by Phillips. This hall, which is appropriated to 
 the meetings of the magistrates and council, is on 
 public occasions brilliantly lighted by three elegant cut- 
 glass chandeliers, suspended from the ceiling, and by 
 twelve sconces on the walls. In the upper part of the 
 building, on the west, is the town armoury, in which are 
 deposited 300 muskets, a very ancient coat of mail, the 
 staff of the banner borne by the citizens at Harlaw, and 
 the furniture of the provost's charger when he attended 
 the coronation of Charles I. at Edinburgh. The County 
 16 
 
 Buildings, in Union-street, erected in 1820, by the 
 counties of Aberdeen and Banff, for festive meetings, at 
 a cost of £11,500, is a handsome structure of finely- 
 dressed granite, in the Grecian style of architecture, with 
 a stately portico of the Ionic order. It contains a 
 spacious assembly-room, richly decorated ; card, tea, and 
 supper rooms, and various other apartments. 
 
 The Town Gaol, adjoining the town-house, has been 
 considerably enlarged. Above the entrance is a strong 
 vaulted chamber, in which are deposited the records 
 and archives of the town, the church registers, and 
 other valuable documents. The City Bridewell was 
 erected at an expense of £12,000, on a site of two 
 acres and a half on the confines of the town, and was 
 opened in 1S09. It is a handsome structure in the 
 castellated style, surrounded with a wall fourteen feet in 
 height. There are five stories, of which part of the 
 uppermost is used as an hospital, and the interior is 
 divided throughout its whole length by a gallery, on one 
 side of which are dormitories, and on the other cells for 
 labour; the whole number of cells is 109, each eight 
 feet long, and seven feet wide. The building is warmed 
 by steam and lighted with gas. Adjoining the rear is 
 the governor's house, containing a committee-room for 
 the meeting of the magistrates, a chapel, and apart- 
 ments for a surgeon, in addition to the requisite accom- 
 modations for the governor, matron, and other officers 
 necessary for the performance of the various duties of 
 the establishment. The prisoners are employed in pro- 
 fitable labour. 
 
 The university of Maris- 
 CH.\L College was founded 
 in 1593, under a charter from 
 James VI., by George Keith, 
 fifth earl-marischal of Scot- 
 land, who endowed it with 
 the church, conventual build- 
 ings, and lands of the Fran- 
 ciscan monastery, which had 
 been presented to him foi 
 that purpose by the magis- 
 trates and council of the 
 city, and with the lands, 
 tenements, and other property of the Dominican and 
 Carmelite convents situated respectively on the School- 
 hill and the Green, and which had been demolished 
 at the Reformation. The original endowment was aug- 
 mented by a grant of £300 per annum, by William III., 
 payable out of the bishops' rents of Aberdeen and 
 Moray, and by a grant of £105 per annum by Queen 
 Anne ; and the funds have since been increased by 
 royal grants, for the foundation of additional professor- 
 ships, and by donations and bequests from various in- 
 dividuals, for the foundation of bursaries and lecture- 
 ships. The primary establishment consisted of a 
 principal, three regents in philosophy and languages, 
 six bursars, an ceconomus and other officers. As at 
 present constituted, the university consists of a chan- 
 cellor, generally a nobleman of high rank, who is elected 
 by the senatus academicus, and holds his office for life ; 
 a rector elected periodically by the siippositi of the 
 university ; a dean of faculty, elected by the senatus 
 academicus and the senior minister of Aberdeen ; and a 
 principal, who is appointed by the crown. There are 
 thirteen professorships, of which the Greek, civil and 
 
 Seal and Arms.
 
 A B E R 
 
 A B E R 
 
 natural history, natural philosophy, and moral phi- 
 losophy and logic, were founded in 1593, at the ori- 
 ginal institution of the university ; and those of mathe- 
 matics, divinity, oriental languages, church history, 
 humanity, medicine, chemistry, anatomy, and surgery, 
 at subsequent periods. Of these professorships, that of 
 divinity, founded in I6l5 by Mr. Patrick Copland, a 
 dissenting minister at Norton in the county of North- 
 ampton, and that of mathematics, founded in 1613 by 
 Dr. Duncan Liddell, are in the patronage of the town 
 council; that of oriental languages, founded in 1723 by 
 the Rev. Gilbert Ramsay, rector of Christ Church, 
 Barbadoes, is in the patronage of his descendant. Sir A. 
 Ramsay, of Balmaine ; and all the others are in the 
 patronage of the crown. There are also lectureships on 
 practical religion, the evidences of Christianity, Scottish 
 law and conveyancing, botany, materia medica, institutes 
 of medicine, midwifery, medical jurisprudence, com- 
 parative anatomy, and agriculture. The lectureship 
 on practical religion is in the patronage of the trustees 
 of Mr. Gordon of Murtle ; on Scottish law and con- 
 veyancing, in the patronage of the Society of Advocates ; 
 on agriculture, in that of the magistrates of Aberdeen ; 
 and all the others in the patronage of the college. 
 Attached to the university are likewise 11,5 bursaries, 
 varying in value from £5 to £30 each per annum, 
 tenable for four years, and of which more than sixty are 
 open to general competition, and thirty-six in the patron- 
 age of the town council. The average number of students 
 is about 400. 
 
 The University Library, now very extensive and valu- 
 able, consisted originally of the books belonging to 
 St. Nicholas' church, among which were several pre- 
 viously in the ancient monasteries, comprising the lives 
 of the fathers of the church, and some volumes of the 
 classics in manuscript. The collection has been greatly 
 increased by successive donations, the most considerable 
 being that of Mr. Thomas Reid, Latin secretary to 
 James VI., who, in the course of his travels, had pur- 
 chased the best editions of the classics, with the most 
 celebrated works of the ancient philosophers, lawyers, 
 and critics, and numerous valuable MSS., all of which 
 he bequeathed to the university, in which he was edu- 
 cated, with a sum of money as a fund for its further 
 improvement, and for a salary to the librarian. In 
 1782, the Earl of Bute, then chancellor, presented to 
 the library a collection of 1400 volumes ; and it was 
 subsequently enlarged by the collections of Sir William 
 Fordyce and Professor Donaldson. Altogether the 
 number of volumes is about 12,000. The Museum con- 
 tains numerous specimens in the various departments 
 of natural history, and many artificial curiosities. 
 Among its contents are, an Egyptian mummy ; an 
 antique statue of Esculapius, in white marble, two feet 
 in height ; the staff of office of the earls-marischal of 
 Scotland ; a box of gold presented to the university by 
 the Earlof Buchan, in 1*69, inclosing a silver pen, which 
 is annually awarded as a prize to the most successful 
 student of the Greek class ; the dies for a gold medal 
 two ounces in weight, given by the late John Gray, Esq., 
 of London, to be presented to such of his mathematical 
 bursars as should distinguish themselves in acquire- 
 ments ; the various apparatus for the illustration of 
 natural history ; and the common seal of the university, 
 bearing the arms of the marischal family, and those of 
 Vol. I.— 17 
 
 the city of Aberdeen impaled, with the crest a meridian 
 sun, and the motto Luceo. The Observatory, formerly 
 on the Castle-hill, at a distance from the college, was 
 removed on the erection of the present barracks, and 
 government granted to the university a sum of money 
 towards the building of another within the precincts of 
 the college, which was completed in 1840. It contains 
 a universal equatorial circle, a transit instrument, a 
 moveable quadrant of two feet radius, an achromatic 
 telescope with refraction apparatus, reflecting-telescopes, 
 an orrery, and various other astronomical instruments, 
 with a clock striking the seconds within the hearing of 
 the observer, and an astronomical clock exhibiting the 
 motions of the celestial bodies. 
 
 The buildings of the university, originally the Fran- 
 ciscan monastery, several portions of which were rapidly 
 falling into decay, were taken down in 1838; and the 
 present elegant structure, towards the erection of which 
 government made a grant of £15,000, was completed at 
 an expense of £25,000. The principal front of the pre- 
 sent buildings, on the east side of Broad-street, occupies 
 three sides of a quadrangle, and is in the later style of 
 English or pointed architecture. The central range is 
 ornamented with a stately square tower, with octagonal 
 turrets at the angles, surmounted by minarets crowned 
 with ogee domes, crocketed, and terminating in flowered 
 finials. Above the doorway is a noble oriel window of 
 two stages, and on each side are three open arches, lead- 
 ing into the interior portion of the structure, above 
 which are windows of two lights, cinquefoiled, and sur- 
 mounted with square-headed dripstones. The wings, 
 which are also two stories high, are lighted by ranges of 
 windows of corresponding style, and at the angles are 
 octagonal turrets, rising to the parapets, and crowned 
 with lofty minarets similar to those of the principal 
 tower. The buildings contain a public hall, library, 
 museum, and observatory, with spacious class-rooms 
 and other apartments. In the hall are portraits of the 
 fifth earl-marischal, founder of the university, the last 
 earl, and his brother, Field-Marshal Keith ; of Bishop 
 Burnet, the Earl of Bute, Sir Robert Gordon of Straloch, 
 Dr. Arthur Johnston, Sir Paul Menzies, provost of Aber- 
 deen, and others, by the celebrated artist Jamieson. 
 
 The city formerly constituted the parish of St. Ni- 
 cholas alone, which was divided by the authority of the 
 Court of Teinds, in 1828, into the six separate parishes 
 of East, West, North, South, the Grey Friars, and St. 
 Clement. The parish of the East Kirk, situated in the 
 centre of the city, contains a population of 4798 ; the 
 minister's stipend is £300, paid by the corporation, who 
 are patrons of the whole of the six churches, and receive 
 the seat-rents, and apply them to Church purposes. 
 The church, originally the choir of the collegiate church 
 of St. Nicholas, was rebuilt about fifteen years ago, at 
 an expense of £5000 ; it is a handsome structure in the 
 later English style, eighty-six feet in length, and is se- 
 parated from the West church, which formed the western 
 portion of the old edifice, by the lofty arches of the 
 tower. Externally, the two churches are connected, and 
 embellished with an elegant facade of granite, 160 feet 
 in length. The East church contains 1705 sittings. 
 There are places of worship for the United Presbyterian 
 Synod and United Original Seceders, and an episcopal 
 chapel dedicated to St. Paul, erected in 1722, at an 
 expense of £1000 ; also places of worship for Wesleyans, 
 
 D
 
 ABER 
 
 A B ER 
 
 Glassites, Unitarians, and United Christians. The 
 parish of ff'est Kirk contains a population of 10,1S6; 
 the minister's stipend is £300, paid by the corporation. 
 The West church, originally the nave of the ancient 
 church of St. Nicholas, is separated from the East 
 church by the arches of the tower, which is surmounted 
 by a lofty spire 143 feet high ; the church was hand- 
 somely rebuilt in the eighteenth century, was enlarged 
 in 1836, and now contains 1454 sittings. There are 
 places of worship for Independents and members of the 
 United Presbyterian Church. The parish of North Kirk 
 is situated within the town, and contains a population 
 of 5381 ; the minister's stipend is £300, paid by the 
 corporation. The church is a handsome structure of 
 dressed granite, in the Grecian style, with a lofty tower, 
 and an elegant portico of the Ionic order ; it was erected 
 in 1831, by the corporation, and contains 1486 sittings. 
 There are a place of worship for Independents, a Roman 
 Catholic chapel, an episcopal chapel dedicated to St. 
 John, and one dedicated to St. Andrew, the latter a 
 handsome structure in the later English style, erected in 
 1817, at an expense of £8000. The parish of South 
 Kirk is situated within the town, and contains a popu- 
 lation of 3934 ; the minister's stipend is £250, paid by 
 the corporation. The church, originally a chapel of ease, 
 was rebuilt in 1831, at an expense of £4544, and eon- 
 tains 1562 sittings. There are places of worship for the 
 United Presbyterian Church and Independents. The 
 parish of the Grey Friars is wholly in the town, and con- 
 tains a population of 5356; the minister's stipend is £250, 
 paid by the corporation. The church, formerly the 
 church of the monastery of Grey Friars, is a very ancient 
 structure, enlarged and improved some years since, and 
 contains 1042 sittings. There is a place of worship for 
 the Society of Friends. The parish of St. Clement is to 
 the south-east of the town, in the district of Futtie, and 
 contains a population of 7092 ; the minister's stipend is 
 £250, arising principally from bequeathed lands. The 
 church, erected in 1787, on the site of an ancient chapel, 
 was afterwards rebuilt, on a larger scale, at an expense 
 of £2600 ; it is capable of accommodating 1300 persons. 
 The Union quoad sacra parish, which, like similar ec- 
 clesiastical districts in other parts of the country, was 
 afterwards dissolved, was separated from the parishes of 
 East Kirk and St. Clement in 1834, and contained a 
 population of 2790. The church was built by subscrip- 
 tion, in 1822, at an expense of £2600, and contains 1238 
 sittings. A chapel for seamen was built in the same 
 year, at an expense of £800, by the Seamen's Friend 
 Society, containing 570 sittings, all of which are free. 
 The quoad sacra parish of Spring-Garden was separated 
 from the parish of West Kirk, and annexed to a Gaelic 
 church, in 1834, and contained a population of 1887 ; 
 the church was built in 1795, by subscription and loan, 
 and contains sittings for 700 persons. The quoad sacra 
 parish of the Hohj Trinity was separated from the parish 
 of South Kirk, in 1834, and contained a population of 
 2058 ; the church was erected in 1794, at an expense of 
 £1700, and contains 1247 sittings. The quoad sacra 
 parish of John Knox, separated from the parish of the 
 Grey Friars, in 1836, contained a population of 3377 ; 
 the church was built by subscription, at a cost of £1000, 
 and contains 1054 sittings. Places of worship for 
 members of the Free Church have been built in different 
 parts of the city : of these, three are at the head of 
 IS 
 
 the Mutton Brae, connected together, and surmounted 
 by a lofty and elegant spire. 
 
 The Grammar School is of so remote antiquity that 
 the origin of its foundation is not distinctly known ; in 
 1418 Andrew de Syves, vicar of Bervie, who had been 
 master for some years, died, and the school has since 
 that period continued to prosper under a succession of 
 masters, whose salaries have gradually increased from 
 £5 Scotch to 600 merks per annum. It appears to have 
 been supported by various donations, and small fees 
 paid by the scholars, till 1634, when Dr. Patrick Dun, 
 principal of Marischal College, bequeathed the lands of 
 Ferryhill, for the support of four masters, appropriating 
 one-half of the proceeds to the head master or rector, 
 and the remainder to be equally divided among the 
 other three masters. The school is under the patronage 
 of the corporation, the ministers of the town, and the 
 professors of Marischal College, by whom the masters 
 are appointed, with preference to candidates of the name 
 of Dun. Instruction is given in the Greek and Latin 
 classics, the French language, historj', geography, arith- 
 metic, and the mathematics. The salary of the rector 
 is £100, and that of the other masters £50 each, with 
 the fees of their respective classes, amounting to 13s. 4d. 
 for each pupil, with the exception of the sons of poor 
 tenants on the Ferryhill property, who are taught gra- 
 tuitously. There are about 200 scholars in attendance. 
 The buildings, erected in 1757, form three sides of a 
 quadrangle, with two additional wings in the rear. 
 
 Gordon's Hospital, for the maintenance and education 
 of the sons of decayed burgesses, was founded in 1732, 
 by Robert Gordon, Esq., who by deed conveyed the 
 whole of his property, amounting to £10,300, in trust to 
 the provost and council of the city, and the ministers of 
 Aberdeen. These trustees accordingly erected a hand- 
 some building on the ground, formerly belonging to the 
 Dominican friary, on School-hill, which had been pur- 
 chased by Mr. Gordon ; but the funds, having been 
 much reduced by the erection of the building, were 
 suffered to accumulate till 1750, when the hospital was 
 opened, and thirty boys admitted on the foundation. 
 The number gradually increased to eighty ; and in 1816, 
 Alexander Simpson, Esq., of Collie-hill, bequeathed to 
 the principal and professors of Marischal College, and 
 the ministers of Aberdeen, lands in the parishes of New 
 and Old Deer, for the maintenance and education of an 
 additional number of boys, for which purpose the build- 
 ing was enlarged by the erection of two wings, at an 
 expense of £14,000, and fifty more boys were admitted. 
 The buildings consist of a central range, connected with 
 the wings by a handsome colonnade, and surmounted 
 by a small neat spire : over the principal entrance, in a 
 niche, is a statue of the founder, in white marble. In 
 the hall is a full-length portrait, and in the public school- 
 room a half-length portrait of the founder. The Boys' 
 Hospital originated in the separation from the Poor's 
 hospital of the adult inmates and girls, and the sub- 
 sequent appropriation of the remaining part of the funds 
 to the maintenance and education of poor boys, of whom 
 twenty-five were admitted in I768, since which time the 
 number has been increased to fifty, who are clothed, 
 maintained, and taught the ordinary branches of learning. 
 The Girls' Hospital, upon a similar plan, was instituted in 
 1829, and is supported by subscription and annual 
 collections ; thirty girls are clothed, maintained, and in-
 
 ABER 
 
 A B E R 
 
 structed, till they are fourteen years of age, when they 
 are placed out to service. Dr. Bell, of Sladras, be- 
 queathed to the magistrates and council £10,000 three 
 per cents., for the support of schools upon his system ; 
 and two have been consequently established, in one of 
 which are 400 boys, and in the other 300 girls. Schools 
 on the Lancasterian plan were opened in 1815, in which, 
 for some years, were 450 boys and the same number of 
 girls ; but since the establishment of the Madras schools, 
 the number of scholars has been reduced to less than 
 one-half. The Aberdeen schools of industry, established 
 in part in the year 1841, have done much for the pre- 
 vention of crime, by affording employment, instruction, 
 &c., to juvenile vagrants. In addition to these institu- 
 tions, there are nearly forty parochial and other schools 
 in the town and neighbourhood, in which the fees vary 
 from two to five shillings per quarter, and the aggregate 
 number of scholars amounts to nearly 4000. There are 
 also week-day evening schools, in which the number of 
 scholars is about 700 ; and twenty Sabbath-schools, in 
 which there are 2000 scholars. 
 
 The Injirmary was first established in 1739, by sub- 
 scription, aided by a grant of £36 per annum by the 
 magistrates, who also gave a site for the erection of the 
 building, which was partly effected in 1760, when forty- 
 eight patients were admitted. An addition to the 
 building, in 1820, increased the number to seventy, and 
 in 1833 the managers resolved to erect an edifice on a 
 larger scale, which was accomplished in 1835, at an 
 expense of £8500, and the institution adapted for the 
 reception of 210 patients. The government is vested by 
 charter in the magistrates, the professor of medicine in 
 Marischal College, and the moderator of the synod of 
 Aberdeen, who, with all benefactors of £50 each, consti- 
 tute the body of directors, of whom sixteen, chosen 
 annually, form a committee of management. There are 
 two physicians, two surgeons, a resident surgeon, and 
 an apothecary. The buildings are spacious, and well 
 ventilated ; there are twenty wards of large dimensions, 
 and eleven apartments for cases requiring separate 
 treatment and attendance. The income averages £2500. 
 A dispensary was originally established in connexion 
 with the infirmary, and partly supported from the same 
 funds ; but subsequently dispensaries were opened, and 
 maintained by subscription, three of them in the town, 
 and two in the suburbs : these, in 1823, were incor- 
 porated into one institution called the General Dispensary. 
 The Lunatic Asylum was first instituted in 1799, and a 
 building erected for the purpose at a cost of £3484, 
 towards which the magistrates, as trustees of Mr. Car- 
 gill's charity, contributed £1130, on condition of being 
 permitted to send ten pauper patients gratuitously ; and 
 for the reception of an increasing number of patients, 
 and their requisite classification, some ground adjoining 
 the asylum was purchased, and an additional building 
 erected, in 1819, at a cost of £13,135, towards which 
 the governors appropriated a bequest of £10,000 by 
 John Forbes, Esq. In 1836, about eleven acres of land 
 were purchased for £3000, in the cultivation of which 
 many of the patients are engaged ; several workshops 
 have also been erected for such as show any predilection 
 for mechanical pursuits, and to these are added the 
 powerful influences of religious worship, for which there 
 is a chapel. John 6'o;Y/ow,£'s7.,of Murtle, in the year 1815 
 bequeathed considerable property to trustees, for pious 
 19 
 
 and charitable uses, of which they assigned £100 per 
 annum to the lecturers on practical religion in King's 
 and Marischal Colleges, £150 to aged female servants, 
 £150 towards the support of Sunday schools, £300 for 
 the establishment of an hospital for female orphans, and 
 the residue in annual donations to the Deaf and Dumb 
 Society, and other institutions. Mr. John Carnegie, in 
 1S35, left nearly £8000 to trustees, for the establishment 
 of an Orphan Hospital for females, and in 1836, Mrs. 
 Elmslie, of London, bequeathed for the same purpose 
 £26,000 : with these funds, an appropriate building has 
 been erected, on the west side of the town, and properly 
 endowed. The House of Refuge was established in 1 836, 
 by subscription, aided by a donation of £1000 from 
 George Watt, Esq., and is supported by annual con- 
 tributions : the number of inmates, in the year 1839, 
 was 420, of whom 120 males and 90 females, under 
 fourteen years of age, were being instructed in the ordi- 
 nary branches of a useful education. The House of In- 
 dustry and the Magdalen Asylum were also founded chiefly 
 by Mr. Watt, who for that purpose conveyed to trustees 
 the property of Oldmill, producing a rental of £164. 
 The Deaf and Dujnb Institution was established by sub- 
 scription, in 1819; but from the inadequacy of the 
 funds, only one-half of the expense of maintenance is 
 afforded to the inmates, who generally derive the re- 
 mainder from other charitable funds : the management 
 is vested in a committee, and the teacher is allowed to 
 receive private boarders, who are not chargeable to the 
 funds. The Asylum for the Indigent Blind was instituted 
 in 1818, by the trustees of Miss Cruickshank, who 
 devoted the bulk of her property to that benevolent 
 purpose, which, after the funds had been suffered for 
 some years to accumulate, was carried into effect, and 
 an appropriate building erected. An hospital for the 
 maintenance and education of five orphan or destitute 
 boys, and as many girls, and for which, at present, a 
 house has been hired in the Gallowgate, was founded by 
 a bequest of Alexander Shaw's, in the year 1S07. The 
 boys are apprenticed, and the girls placed out as ser- 
 vants ; the former, on the expiration of their indentures, 
 and the latter after five years' service in the same family, 
 receive a premium of £ 1 0. There are also numerous 
 missionary and other religious societies, some of which 
 are supported exclusively by members of the Esta- 
 blished Church, others by various dissenting bodies, 
 and some indiscriminately by both : as, however, they 
 have no permanent funds or vested property for their 
 support, and present no peculiar features in their ma- 
 nagement or objects, it is unnecessary to give a detailed 
 account of them. 
 
 Among the most Eminent Natives may be noticed, 
 John Barbour, Archdeacon of Aberdeen in 1330, and 
 author of a metrical history of Robert Bruce ; George 
 Jamieson, a portrait-painter, who was born in 1586, and 
 painted more than 100 portraits of the principal nobility 
 and gentry, which are held in high estimation; David 
 Anderson, distinguished for his mechanical genius, and 
 who, in I6l8, greatly improved the harbour by the re- 
 moval of a large rock which lay in the middle of the 
 channel, and obstructed the entrance ; James Gregory, 
 inventor of the reflecting-tclescope, born in 1638, and 
 educated at Marischal College ; James Gibbs, born in 
 1688, the architect of the church of St. Martin's-in-the- 
 Fields, London, who furnished the design for the present 
 
 D2
 
 A B E R 
 
 ABER 
 
 West church in his native city ; John Gregory, born 
 in 1/24, professor of medicine in King's College, Aber- 
 deen, and afterwards of Edinburgh, where he was suc- 
 ceeded by his son, Dr. James Gregory, also a native of 
 this place ; and John Ramage, eminent for his practical 
 skill in the construction of reflecting-telescopes, of which 
 he made one now in the Royal Observatory, which, 
 though greatly inferior in size, is nearly equal in power 
 to Herschel's celebrated forty-feet reflector. Connected 
 with the town have been also. Dr. Robert Hamilton, pro- 
 fessor of natural philosophy, and afterwards of mathe- 
 matics, in Marischal College, and author of a valued 
 essay on the national debt ; Dr. Patrick Copland, like- 
 wise professor of mathematics and natural philosophy in 
 the college, the museum of which he enriched with appa- 
 ratus and models of his own construction ; and Dr. 
 Thomas Reid, Dr James Beattie, and the late Lord 
 Byron, who were residents of Aberdeen. In the fore- 
 going enumeration of natives and others, are probably 
 some that were connected with Old Aberdeen ; but it 
 would not be easy, and perhaps it is not necessary, to 
 draw an accurate line between those men of talents and 
 celebrity who have lived in Aberdeen, and those who 
 properly belong to the adjoining town. The city gives 
 the title of Earl to a branch of the Gordon family, a 
 dignity created in the year 16S2. 
 
 ABERDEEN, OLD, or 
 Old Machar, a parish, 
 chiefly without, but partly- 
 within, the city of Aber- 
 deen, in the county of 
 ' Aberdeen ; comprising the 
 former quoad sacra parishes 
 of Bon-Accord, Gilcomston, 
 Holburn, and Woodside ; 
 and containing 28,020 inha- 
 bitants. This place, origi- 
 nally a small hamlet, consist- 
 ing only of a few scattered 
 cottages, was, from the erection of a chapel near the 
 ancient bridge of Seaton by St. Machar in the ninth 
 century, called the Kirktown of Seaton. It was undis- 
 tinguished, however, by any event of importance till the 
 year 1137, when it became the seat of a diocese, on the 
 removal of the see of Aberdeen by David I. from Mort- 
 lach, in the county of Banff, where it was originally 
 founded by Malcolm II., and had continued for more 
 than 120 years. Bishop Kinnimond, at that time pre- 
 late of the see, founded a cathedral church on the site of 
 the ancient chapel of St. Machar ; and towards the end 
 of the thirteenth century, this church was taken down by 
 Bishop Cheyne, for the purpose of erecting a structure 
 of more ample dimensions, and more appropriate charac- 
 ter ; but in the contested succession to the throne of 
 Scotland, becoming an adherent of Baliol, he was com- 
 pelled to retire into e.xile, and the rebuilding of the 
 cathedral was suspended. On the establishment of 
 Robert Bruce, that monarch recalled the exiled bishop, 
 who recommenced the work ; and the undertaking was 
 continued by his successors, of whom Bishop Elphin- 
 stone, the founder of King's College, with the assistance 
 of James IV., made rapid progress in the rebuilding of 
 the cathedral. It was completed by Bishop Dunbar, in 
 1.518, and, since the abolition of episcopacy in Scotland, 
 has been appropriated as the parish church. In the 
 20 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 long line of bishops who made this place the seat of 
 ecclesiastical state, there were some who by their deeds 
 and character threw a lustre even upon their high and 
 holy office. 
 
 The TOWN is pleasantly situated on a gentle eminence, 
 near the river Don. Across the river is an ancient pic- 
 turesque bridge of one lofty arch, in the early English 
 style, said to have been built by Bishop Cheyne, though 
 by others ascribed to King Robert Bruce, and concerning 
 which, under the appellation of the Brig of Balgownie, a 
 traditionary legend prophetic of its downfall is quoted 
 by Lord Byron. Considerably to the east of this, is 
 another bridge, affording a passage from Aberdeen to 
 the north, erected from the funds for keeping the old 
 bridge in repair, originally left for that purpose by Sir 
 Alexander Hay, and which, from £2. 5. 6., had accumu- 
 lated to £20,000 : it is a handsome structure of five 
 arches, built of granite. The principal street, which 
 consists of houses irregularly built, extends from south 
 to north, to the town-house, where it diverges into two 
 branches, one leading to the church, and the other to 
 the old bridge ; the streets are lighted, and the inhabi- 
 tants are well supplied with water by commissioners 
 appointed by the rate-payers. The environs are ex- 
 tremely pleasant, and richly wooded ; and in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of the town are numerous villas. 
 
 On the establishment of the see at this place, the town 
 was made a burgh of barony, by charter of David I. ; 
 and the various privileges conferred upon it by subsequent 
 sovereigns were confirmed by charter of George I., who 
 granted the inhabitants the power of choosing their own 
 magistrates. The government is vested, by charter, in a 
 provost, four bailies, a treasurer, and council of eight 
 merchant and five trade burgesses, assisted by a town- 
 clerk, procurator-fiscal, and other officers. There are 
 seven incorporated trades, viz., the hammermen, weavers, 
 tailors, wrights and coopers, bakers and brewers, fleshers 
 and fishers, and shoemakers, who elect their own dea- 
 cons, and also a deacon convener. The fees on entrance 
 to these trades, which confer the privilege of carrying on 
 trade in the burgh, are £8, and a payment of £3 to the 
 court of conveners ; and for a merchant burgess £5. 7. 
 The jurisdiction of the magistrates extends over the 
 whole burgh, but is seldom exercised : not more than 
 two civil causes have been determined in one year; in 
 criminal cases, their jurisdiction is limited to petty mis- 
 demeanors, and all more serious offences are referred 
 to the sheriff's court. For parliamentary purposes the 
 burgh is associated with Aberdeen, and the right of 
 election, under the Reform act, is vested in the resident 
 £10 householders of the place. The number of mem- 
 bers of all the several guilds does not in the aggregate 
 exceed 120, and of these not more than fifteen exercise 
 any trade. The town-hall, which is situated at the 
 northern extremity of the principal street, was built by 
 subscription, in 1702, and has been since rebuilt. It 
 contains a spacious hall for public meetings, a couucil- 
 room for the occasional use of the magistrates, and 
 various other apartments ; in the upper floor is the 
 grammar school, and on the ground floor a school for 
 English. Opposite to the town-hall was formerly an 
 ancient cross, consisting of a pedestal bearing the arms 
 of the Bishops Dunbar, Stewart, and Gordon, from which 
 rose a pillar surmounted by an effigy of the Virgin Mary; 
 but this was removed on the rebuilding of the hall.
 
 A B ER 
 
 ABE R 
 
 Seal of the University. 
 
 Since the dissolution of 
 the see^ the town has owed 
 its chief prosperity and sup- 
 port to its university, which 
 was founded by Bishop 
 Elphinstone, in the reign of 
 James IV., who for that pur- 
 pose procured a bull from 
 Pope Alexander VI. The 
 college was first dedicated to 
 St. Mary ; but from the great 
 liberality of the monarch in 
 its endowment, it was subse- 
 quently called King's College, a designation it has 
 ever since retained. The first principal of the college 
 was Hector Boethius, the celebrated historian, under 
 whom and his successors it continued to flourish till the 
 Reformation, when many of its functionaries were ex- 
 pelled. In 1578, the institution received a charter from 
 the parliament, after which it languished under the gross 
 mismanagement of its principals, who sold the ornaments 
 of the chapel, alienated the revenues for their own 
 emolument, and committed other abuses. In 1619, 
 however. Bishop Forbes, by great perseverance, reco- 
 vered part of the alienated property, and restored several 
 of the professorships, to which, in 1628, he added a 
 professorship of divinity, which was afterwards held by 
 his son. From this time, the institution revived, and 
 continued to flourish till the introduction of the Cove- 
 nant, for refusing to sign which several of the professors 
 were expelled, among whom was Dr. Forbes, the divinity 
 professor. Many of the new professors appointed by 
 the Covenanters were, in their turn, ejected by Cromwell, 
 under whom General Monk despatched Colonels Desbo- 
 rough, Fenvvick, and others, to visit and reform the 
 college : these officers, though they removed some of the 
 professors, and appointed others, still promoted the 
 general interests of the establishment, and subscribed 
 liberally towards the erection of houses for the students. 
 After the restoration of Charles II., the bishops of Aber- 
 deen assumed their authority as chancellors of the uni- 
 versity, and reformed the disorders which had been 
 introduced during the interregnum. 
 
 The university, as at present constituted, is under 
 the direction of a chancellor, generally a nobleman of 
 high rank, who is elected by the senutus acadciiiicus ; a 
 rector, chosen by the same body ; and a principal and 
 sub-principal, elected by the rector, procuratores gentium, 
 and the professors, and admitted by the chancellor. 
 There are nine professorships, of which those of Greek, 
 humanity, medicine and chemistry, and civil law, are in 
 the patronage of the rector, prncuratores, and senatus 
 (icademicus ; that of divinity in the patronage of the 
 synod of Aberdeen, the principal, and dean of faculty of 
 theology ; those of mathematics, natural philosophy, and 
 moral philosophy, in the patronage of the senutus acade- 
 micus ; and that of oriental languages, in the patronage 
 of the crown. There are also eleven lectureships, of 
 which that of practical religion is in the patronage of 
 the trustees of John Gordon, Esq., of Murtle, the 
 founder ; and those of the evidences and principles of 
 the Christian religion, Murray's Sunday lectures, materia 
 medico, anatomy and physiology, surgery, practice of 
 medicine, midwifery, institutes of medicine, medical 
 jurisprudence, and botany, are all in the patronage of 
 21 
 
 the senutus academicus. The number of bursaries is 
 above 150, varying from £5 to £50 per annum, and 
 mostly tenable for four years. Of these, ninety-six are 
 open to public competition, and the others are in the 
 patronage of the professors of the college, or represen- 
 tatives of the founders. 
 
 The site of the college occupies a quadrangular area 
 of considerable extent, surrounded with buildings raised 
 at different periods, of which the most ancient were 
 erected in 1500. The whole possesses a strikingly 
 venerable appearance. In the north-west angle is a 
 lofty massive tower, strengthened with canopied but- 
 tresses, bearing the royal arms of Scotland, and those 
 of Stewart, Archbishop of St. Andrew's, and others : 
 above the parapet is a lantern, supported by flying but- 
 tresses springing from the angles, in the form of an 
 imperial crown; This kind of lantern also surmounts 
 the cathedral of St. Giles at Edinburgh, the Cross or 
 Tolbooth steeple at Glasgow, and at one time surmounted 
 the central tower of the parish church of Haddington, 
 and the tower of the church of Linlithgow : in England, 
 only one example of it is known, namely, that which, far 
 excelling any of these in the north, crowns the tower of 
 St. Nicholas' church at Newcastle-on-Tyne. On the 
 north side of the college quadrangle is the ancient cha- 
 pel erected by Bishop Elphinstone, originally a stately 
 structure of elegant design, with a lofty spire, and inter- 
 nally embellished with most costly ornaments, which, as 
 before noticed, were sold by the parliamentarian function- 
 aries. The nave is now appropriated to the use of the 
 college library, and the chancel is the college chapel. 
 There are still remaining, in the former portion, many 
 traces of its pristine beauty, and an inventory in Latin of 
 the various ornaments of the chapel ; and in the chancel 
 are the rich tabernacle work of the prebendal stalls, the 
 pews for the diocesan synod, the carved oak roof, and 
 the tombs of Bishop Elphinstone and the first principal, 
 Boethius. The south side of the quadrangle, rebuilt by 
 Dr. Eraser in 1725, is of plain character, ll'i feet in 
 length, with a piazza in front, and at the extremities 
 were circular towers, of which one only is remaining. 
 The common hall, which is sixty feet in length, and 
 twenty-three feet wide, contains numerous portraits by 
 Jamieson, including portraits of Bishops Elphinstone, 
 Dunbar, Forbes, Leslie, and Scougal, Professors Sandi- 
 land and Gordon, George Buchanan, and Queen Mary. 
 In the committee-room is a painting, on panel, of the 
 college as it appeared in the sixteenth century. The 
 library contains a very valuable and extensive collection 
 of books and manuscripts, and was formerly entitled to 
 a copy of every work entered at Stationers' Hall, of 
 which privilege it was deprived by act of parliament in 
 1836, the loss being compensated for by an annual 
 grant of £Z1Q. It comprises about 34,000 volumes. 
 The museum contains a large collection of specimens in 
 mineralogy and zoology, numerous Grecian and Roman 
 coins and antiquities, casts from ancient gems, and some 
 valuable books of engravings illustrative of these sub- 
 jects : this department was, in 1 790, enriched with the 
 coins and medals bequeathed by Dr. Cummin, of An- 
 dover, and has been subsequently increased by numerous 
 specimens. A commodious room, in the more modern 
 portion of the building, was handsomely fitted up by 
 subscription, in the year 1842, as a museum of natural 
 history. .
 
 ABE R 
 
 ABE R 
 
 Among the many distinguished individuals that have 
 been connected with the university may be noticed, 
 George, Earl Marischal, the founder of Marischal Col- 
 lege ; Chancellor Gordon, of Haddo, created Earl of 
 Aberdeen in lee's ; Dr. Thomas Bovver, an eminent 
 mathematician; the celebrated Dr. Reid, professor of 
 philosophy, and afterwards of Glasgow ; Lord Mon- 
 boddo ; Mr. Charles Burney, a distinguished Greek 
 scholar ; Arthur Johnston, a Latin poet ; Dr. James 
 Gregory, and his sons, afterwards professors of medicine 
 at Edinburgh ; Robert Hall, the distinguished preacher ; 
 and Sir James Mackintosh. 
 
 The p.\RiSH originally comprehended the parishes of 
 New Machar and Newhills, which, after the Reformation, 
 were separated from it : anciently there was a deanery 
 of St. Machar. The present parish is about eight miles 
 in length, and varies from two to four in breadth, situ- 
 ated on a peninsula, between the rivers Dee and Don. 
 Its surface rises gradually from the sea-shore, and the 
 scenery is interspersed with flourishing plantations, and 
 with the windings of the Dee and the Don, the banks of 
 which latter are richly wooded, and in some parts, from 
 their precipitous acclivity and rugged aspect, have a 
 strikingly romantic appearance. The higher grounds 
 command extensive views of the German Ocean, of the 
 lofty and ancient bridge on the one side, and on the 
 other of the cathedral and the spires of Aberdeen. The 
 soil is various, in some parts richly fertile, and in others 
 almost sterile ; but the lands are generally in good cul- 
 tivation, and the state of agriculture highly improved. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £67,192. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery and 
 synod of Aberdeen, and patronage of the Earl of Fife ; 
 the stipend of the first minister is £2*3. 1. 3., and that 
 of the second £282. 19. 9., with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £31. 10. per annum. The church was for- 
 merly an elegant structure, of which the choir was de- 
 stroyed by the reformers ; and the remainder of the 
 building was preserved from demolition only by the 
 Earl of Huntly, and Leslie of Balquhan, who, at the 
 head of a large body of their armed retainers, drove 
 away the band which had been assembled for its de- 
 struction. The interior of the remaining portion suf- 
 fered great mutdation under the Covenanters, who 
 destroyed the altar, and the rich carvings and other 
 ornaments; and in 1688, the high tower at the east 
 end of the nave, which had been undermined by the 
 soldiers of Cromwell, through the removal of masonry 
 for the erection of their works at Castle-hill, and which, 
 with its spire, 150 feet in height, had long served as a 
 landmark to mariners, fell to the ground, destroying in 
 its fall a considerable portion of the nave, with several 
 of the monuments. The great arches on which the 
 central tower was supported, have been built up, and 
 the two towers at the west end are in good preservation ; 
 they are 112 feet high, and after rising to the height of 
 fifty-two feet in a quadrilateral form, are continued by a 
 succession of octangular turrets, decreasing in size till they 
 terminate in a finial surmounted by a cross. The nave 
 is nearly perfect ; and its western front, built of the 
 obdurate granite of the country, is stately in the severe 
 symmetry of its simple design. The choir seems never 
 to have been finished ; and of the transepts, only the 
 foundations now remain. The ceiling of the nave is 
 22 
 
 divided into forty-eight compartments, in which are 
 emblazoned, in vivid colours recently renewed, the 
 armorial bearings of the Scottish kings, the ecclesias- 
 tical dignitaries, and the principal nobility. Of the 
 several monuments still remaining, that of Bishop 
 Scougal, father of Henry Scougal, author of the Life of 
 God in the Soul of Man, is the most interesting and 
 entire ; there are also a monument to William Blake of 
 Haddo, sub-principal of King's College, and tablets to 
 Gordon and Scott, professors, and David Mitchell, Esq., 
 LL.D. The portion of the building appropriated as the 
 pari.sh church is neatly fitted up, and contains 1594 
 sittings ; the chapel in King's College contains 350 
 sittings. There are places of worship for members of 
 the Free Church. 
 
 The grammar school, which is held in the town-hall, 
 is under the patronage of the magistrates and council, 
 and is visited annually by the professors of the college, 
 and the ministers. The parochial school affords instruc- 
 tion to about seventy scholars ; the master has a salary 
 of £30, with an equal sum from the trustees of Dick's 
 bequest, and the fees average about £30 per annum. 
 There are also two schools on the Madras system, 
 founded by a bequest left by Dr. Bell. An hospital was 
 founded in 1531, by Bishop Dunbar, who endowed it 
 for twelve aged men ; the buildings consisted of a re- 
 fectory, twelve dormitories, and a chapel surmounted 
 with a small spire. The endowment has been subse- 
 quently increased by donations and bequests, and by 
 the proceeds of the sale of the buildings ; the present 
 funds are about £3000, from the interest of which 
 twenty-one aged men derive relief. An hospital was 
 founded in 1801, by Dr. Mitchell, for lodging, clothing, 
 and maintaining five widows, and five unmarried daugh- 
 ters of burgesses in indigent circumstances, for which 
 purpose he bequeathed ample funds, in trust, to the 
 principal of King's College, the provost and senior baihe 
 of the town, and the two ministers of the parish. The 
 building, which is situated near the church, is one story 
 high ; it contains a kitchen, refectory, and dormitories, 
 neatly furnished ; and attached to it is a pleasure- 
 ground. A dispensary was established in 1826. 
 
 ABERDEENSHIRE, a maritime county, in the 
 north-east part of Scotland, and one of the most exten- 
 sive counties in the kingdom, bounded on the north by 
 the Moray Firth ; on the east by the German Ocean ; 
 on the south by Perth, Forfar, and Kincardine shires, and 
 on the west by the counties of Banff and Inverness. It lies 
 between 56° 52' and 57° 42' (N. Lat.), and 1° 49' and 3° 
 48' (W. Lon.), and is eighty-six miles in extreme length, 
 and forty-two miles in extreme breadth ; comprising an 
 area of 1985 square miles, or 1,2/0,400 acres ; 32,063 
 inhabited, and 1091 uninhabited, houses; and contain- 
 ing a population of 192,387, of which number 89,707 
 are males, and 102,680 females. From the time of 
 David I., the county was included in the diocese of 
 Aberdeen ; at present, it is almost wholly in the synod 
 of Aberdeen, and includes several presbyteries, the whole 
 containing eighty-five parishes. For civil purposes, it 
 is divided into eight districts, Aberdeen, Alford, Deer 
 otherwise Buchan, Ellon, Garioch, Kincardine-O'Neil, 
 Strathbogie, and Turriff, in each of which, under the 
 superintendence of a deputy lieutenant, the county ma- 
 gistrates hold regular courts. It contains the three 
 royal burghs of Aberdeen, Kintore, and Inverury, the
 
 A BER 
 
 A BE R 
 
 market-towns of Peterhead, Fraserburgh, Huntly, Turriff, 
 and Meldrum, and numerous large fishing-villages on 
 the coast. Under the act of the 2nd William IV., the 
 county returns one member to parliament. 
 
 The SURFACE, towards the sea, is tolerably level ; but 
 the greater portion forms part of the central highlands, 
 and consists of high mountains, interspersed with a few 
 valleys. The principal mountains are, Ben-Macdhui, 
 the loftiest in Britain ; the Braeriach, which has an 
 elevation of 4304 feet ; Ben-Aburd, Ben-Aven, Loch- 
 nagar, and Morven, which vary from '2500 to 4300 in 
 height, with numerous others from 800 to 2000 feet in 
 height. Of the valleys the chief are the Garioch and 
 Strathbogie, the former inclosed on all sides with hills 
 of moderate height, and the latter enriched with wood, 
 abounding in beautiful scenery, and highly cultivated. 
 The rivers are the Dee, the Don, the Ythan, the Do- 
 veron, and the Ugie, but the rapidity of their currents 
 renders them comparatively useless for the purpose of 
 navigation ; they have their sources, generally, among 
 the mountains in the south-west, and flow towards the 
 north and north-east. All of them abound with fine sal- 
 mon, and fish of every kind is taken on the coast. 
 
 About one-third of the land is under cultivation, and 
 the remainder mountain, pasture, and waste. Towards 
 the sea, and in the valleys, the soil is rich and fertile, 
 producing excellent crops of wheat and other grain ; 
 and in the more secluded portions of the county is some 
 fine timber, among which are numerous lofty pine-trees, 
 fit for the masts of ships ; but from the want of inland 
 navigation, few of them are felled for that purpose. 
 Between the Dee and the Ythan is a low tract of waste, 
 on which are some sand-hills that have been lamentably 
 destructive of the adjacent lands ; several fertile fields, 
 to the north of the Ythan, have been covered, to a great 
 extent, with sand blown from these hills, and the walls 
 of a church and a manse that have been buried by them 
 are still to be seen. The minerals are quartz and as- 
 bestos ; and various gems and pieces of amber are 
 found in the mountains : the principal quarries are of 
 granite of very superior quality, of which vast quantities 
 are sent to London and other places, and freestone and 
 limestone are also extensively quarried. Many of the 
 proprietors reside on their lands, and have materially 
 contributed to their improvement, by extensive planta- 
 tions, and the introduction of a better system of agricul- 
 ture, and superior breeds of cattle ; and much waste 
 land has been brought into cultivation under the pa- 
 tronage of the Highland Society. The chief seats are 
 Haddo House, Aboyne Castle, Huntly Lodge, Slains 
 Castle, Keith Hall, Mar Lodge, Delgaty Castle, Skene, 
 Castle-Forbes, Philorth House, iVIonymusk, Ellon Castle, 
 Fintray House, Fyvie Castle, Gordon Lodge, and Castle- 
 Frazer. The coast is bold and rocky, with some alter- 
 nations of level beach. On the Moray Firth, the most 
 prominent headlands are Rosehearty Point and Kin- 
 naird Head ; and on the German Ocean, Cairnbulg 
 Point, Rattray Head, Scotstown Point, Invernetty Point, 
 and Buchan Ness. The chief bays in the former are, 
 the harbour of Rosehearty, and the bay of Fraserburgh ; 
 and in the latter, Peterhead Bay, Cruden Bay, Sandy 
 Haven, Long Haven, Garrick's Haven, and the bay of 
 Aberdeen. Facility of communication is maintained by 
 good roads, some of which were made under the autho- 
 rity of the commissioners for Highland roads and 
 23 
 
 bridges, appointed by act of parliament. The annual 
 value of real property in the county is £605, S02, of 
 which £423,388 are returned for lands, £145,366 for 
 houses, £8864 for fisheries, £108* for canal navigation, 
 £1085 for quarries, and £26,012 for other species of 
 real property. 
 
 ABERDOUR, a parish, in the district of Deer, 
 county of Aberdeen; containing 1645 inhabitants, of 
 whom 376 are in the village of New Aberdour, 8 miles 
 (W. by S.) from Fraserburgh. The name of this place 
 is supposed to have been derived from the Gaelic term 
 y^ier, signifying "mouth" or "opening," in reference to 
 the rivulet Dour, which finds an entrance into the sea a 
 short distance below the manse. There are numerous 
 cairns and tumuli, containing stone coffins with the 
 ashes and bones of human bodies, indicating the 
 parish to have been the theatre of military conflict. 
 The castle of Dundargue, also, stands here, which Sir 
 Thomas Beaumont fortified and garrisoned, in right of 
 his wife, daughter to the Earl of Buchan, when he ac- 
 companied Edward Baliol, who came to claim the king- 
 dom of Scotland. This castle was of great importance 
 in the feudal times, and is famed for a long siege in 
 1336, when Henry de Beaumont, the English Earl of 
 Buchan, capitulated to Murray, Regent of Scotland, 
 during the captivity of David Bruce. On the coast is a 
 cave called Cowshaven, which is celebrated as the hiding- 
 place of Lord Pitsligo, after the battle of CuUoden : this 
 retreat was at last discovered by the impressions on the 
 snow, of the footsteps of a woman who supplied him with 
 food; and he was obliged to flee thence for safety. 
 
 The parish contains 15,165 acres, of which 5873 
 are cultivated, 5608 are moor or green pasture, 3496 
 moss, 88 wood, and 101 occupied by roads, &c. Its 
 form is altogether irregular, consisting of a kind of zig- 
 zag boundary, some parts of which strike off to a con- 
 siderable extent. The northern boundary runs for 
 about seven miles along the shore of the Moray Firth, 
 which is broken by numerous openings and caves, some 
 of them penetrating for a long distance into the land. 
 The coast in general is bold and rocky, and on the estate 
 of Auchmedden rises the colossal Pitjossie, an immense 
 natural arch, which strikes the beholder with astonish- 
 ment, when viewed from the summit of the adjoining 
 cliff, and is said to rival the celebrated BuUers of Buchan. 
 On the coast are also the three small bays of Aberdour, 
 Pennan, and Nethermill, the beach of which consists 
 of large quantities of stones washed down the Dour 
 burn and other streams, and thrown back by the vio- 
 lence of the sea on the occurrence of a storm. The sur- 
 face of the parish, generally, is unequal, the eastern 
 division being flat and low, while the estate of Auch- 
 medden, on the western side, rises about 200 or 300 
 feet above the level of the sea : on that property are 
 several deep ravines and dens, which, with the adjacent 
 scenery, present a striking and romantic appearance. 
 In the south-eastern extremity are three farms, entirely 
 cut off from the rest of the parish by the lands of Tyrie, 
 and which some suppose to have been originally grazing 
 land for the cattle belonging to the tenants on the sea- 
 coast ; whilst others think that, at the time the parish 
 was erected, they formed a separate estate belonging to 
 the proprietor, who, wishing to have all his property in 
 one parish, included them within the bounds of Aber- 
 dour. In the south-west of the parish, on the farm of
 
 A B ER 
 
 ABER 
 
 Kinbeani, is a fresh-water loch called Monwig, situated 
 in a large and deep raoss ; it is "200 yards long and 
 twenty-two broad, in some parts very deep, and the dark 
 mossy water of which it consists is covered in the season 
 with flocks of wild geese and ducks. There are several 
 small streams, all of which run into the Moray Firth ; 
 and near Pitjossie, in the glen of Dardar, is a cascade, 
 the water of which, after dashing from the top of a rock 
 into three successive basins, glides gently for 100 yards, 
 until it falls into the Firth. 
 
 Near the coast the soil is a strong loamy clay, which, 
 with good husbandry, yields fine crops ; but in many 
 other parts it is cold and mossy, exhibiting merely cul- 
 tivated patches of land : the produce raised chiefly com- 
 prises oats, turnips, potatoes, barley, bear, and hay. 
 Great improvements have taken place in agriculture 
 within the last thirty or forty years, especially upon the 
 estate of Aberdour, where a regular and scientific system 
 of drainage has been adopted. The bog, the moss, and 
 moor, with which the arable land was mixed, have been 
 removed, bridges and roads have been constructed, and 
 a proper rotation of crops has been introduced and ob- 
 served i improvements which have entirely altered the 
 character of the parish. In other parts, however, there 
 is a deficiency of good inclosures, arising from the 
 scarcity of stones for forming dykes. The rocks along 
 the shore, which are lofty and precipitous, and of con- 
 siderable interest, are a coarse sandstone, frequently 
 passing into conglomerate of various degrees of coarse- 
 ness, and connected with a greywacke slate : the out- 
 lying blocks of loose stone, or boulders, are primary trap 
 or granite. There are several quarries in the parish of 
 granite and sandstone, and two quarries of millstone, 
 one of which latter, in the rocks of Pennan, is said to 
 contain some of the best stones in Britain : the stones 
 from this quarry were formerly in great repute, and sent 
 to the south and west of Scotland, but the demand for 
 them has of late years greatly diminished. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £4510. Aberdour 
 House is an old-fashioned narrow building, occupying a 
 very bleak situation ; and there are several other resi- 
 dences, including one on the estate of Auchmedden : the 
 glens of this estate are justly celebrated as the beds of 
 the finest collection of plants to be found in Scotland, and 
 afford some scarce specimens of botanical treasure. 
 
 The parish contains the villages of New Aberdour and 
 Pennan, the former erected in 1798 ; the inhabitants are 
 employed in agricultural pursuits, with the exception of 
 a few engaged in fishing at Pennan. A manufacture 
 of kelp was formerly carried on to a considerable extent, 
 but it has been greatly reduced, in consequence of the 
 repeal of the duty upon Spanish barilla, which is now 
 generally used instead of kelp. The white-fishing at 
 Pennan, on the estate of Auchmedden, employs six 
 boats, with four men each, who pay a rent to the pro- 
 pi-ietor of £'20 and some dried fish ; and several long 
 boats annually proceed to the herring-fishing in the 
 Moray Firth, which abounds with fish of almost every 
 description, except salmon, very few of which are to be 
 obtained. There are two meal-mills in the parish, one 
 at Aberdour, and the other at Nethermill, each of them 
 built partly of granite and partly of red sandstone. 
 Four annual fairs are held at New Aberdour, for cattle, 
 merchandise, and for hiring servants, in the middle of 
 April, at Whitsuntide, in the middle of August, and at 
 24 
 
 Martinmas : there is also a cattlfe-fair called Byth 
 Market, occurring twice in the year, in May and October, 
 upon a moor in the south of the parish. The turnpike- 
 road from Fraserburgh to Banff touches the parish, at 
 the two points of Bridgend in the east, and Cowbog in 
 the west, and is rendered available to the parishioners 
 by an excellent junction road. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is in the pres- 
 bytery of Deer and synod of Aberdeen ; patron, 
 A. D. Fordyce, Esq. : the minister's stipend is sixteen 
 chalders and a half of victual, half meal half barley, 
 payable by the fairs of the year ; with a manse, built in 
 1822, and a glebe of about seven acres, valued at £14 
 a year. The church, which is conveniently situated at 
 the northern extremity of the village of New Aberdour, 
 was erected in 1818, and contains about 900 sittings. 
 There is a parochial school, where Latin is taught, with 
 all the ordinary branches of education ; the master has a 
 salary of about £32, and £15 fees, with a house. The chief 
 relic of antiquity is the castle of Dundargue, situated 
 upon a lofty precipice overhanging the sea ; and at a 
 place called Chapelden, on a hill opposite the Toar of 
 Troup, are the ruins of a chapel. Of the mineral springs 
 that are to be found in every direction, the most famed 
 is one named Mess John's Well, a strong chalybeate, 
 celebrated for its medicinal virtue ; it issues from a 
 rock about 200 yards west of the burn of Aberdour, and 
 has a small basin, hke a cup, to receive the water that 
 drops. The basin is commonly said to have been 
 formed by John White, laird of Ardlaw-hill during the 
 contest of religious parties. 
 
 ABERDOUR, a parish, in the district of Dunferm- 
 line, county of Fife; including the island of Inch- 
 colm, and the village of Newtown ; and containing 1916 
 inhabitants, of whom 30* are in Easter and 469 in 
 Wester Aberdour, S miles (S. \V.) from Dunfermline. 
 This place takes its name from its situation at the mouth 
 of the Dour, a rivulet which flows into the Forth near 
 the village. It was anciently the property of the Vipont 
 family, of whose baronial castle there are still consider- 
 able remains. The castle, with the lands, passed in 
 1125 from the Viponts, by marriage, to the Mortimers, 
 of whom Allen de Mortimer granted the western por- 
 tion of the lands to the monks of Inchcolm, in con- 
 sideration of the privilege of being allowed to bury in 
 the church of their monastery on the isle, about a mile 
 distant from the mainland. When conveying the re- 
 mains of one of that family to the abbey for interment, 
 a violent storm is said to have arisen, and compelled 
 the party to throw the coffin into the channel, which, 
 from that circumstance, obtained the appellation of 
 " Mortimer's Deep." The ancient castle is a stately 
 pile of massive grandeur, situated on an eminence, on 
 the east bank of the Water of Dour, and commanding 
 an extensive view of the Firth of Forth : in front is a 
 spacious terrace, overlooking the gardens, into which are 
 several descents by flights of steps. It was partly de- 
 stroyed by an accidental fire, about the beginning of the 
 eighteenth century, since which time it has been aban- 
 doned, and suffered to fall into decay ; but the roof is 
 still entire, and several of the apartments are in tolerable 
 preservation, though used only as lumber-rooms. At a 
 small distance is the old church, now a roofless ruin ; it 
 contains the ancient family vault of the Morton family, 
 and is surrounded by a small cemetery.
 
 AB E R 
 
 A B E R 
 
 This parish, which is bounded on the south by the 
 river Forth, is about three miles in length, from east to 
 west, and nearly of equal breadth, comprising about 
 6240 acres, of which 3240 are arable, about 1800 wood- 
 land and plantations, and the remainder meadow and 
 pasture. The surface is broken by the ridge of the 
 Collelo hills, which traverses the parish from east to 
 west, and the summits of which are well wooded, and 
 the southern acclivities in profitable cultivation. To- 
 wards the river, along which the parish extends for 
 more than two miles, the ground is for the most part 
 tolerably level ; but on the east, the coast is rocky and 
 precipitous, rising abruptly into eminences that are 
 wooded to the margin of the Forth. On the face of the 
 hills, walks have been laid out, commanding diversified 
 prospects ; and on the west is a rich bay of white sand, 
 surrounded with trees, whence the ground rises towards 
 the west into eminences crowned with thriving planta- 
 tions, which, stretching southward, terminate in a per- 
 pendicular mass of rock washed by the sea, by which, 
 and by the headlands on the south-east, the harbour is 
 securely sheltered from the winds. To the north-west 
 of the harbour, the surface again rises into a hill finely 
 wooded, adding greatly to the beauty of the scenery, 
 and commanding, on the right, a view of the island of 
 Inchcolm, with the picturesque ruins of the abbey, and, 
 on the left of it, the town of Burntisland, with the 
 coasts of Lothian, the city of Edinburgh, and the Pent- 
 land hills in the distance. 
 
 The soil on the north side of the ridge of hills, which 
 has a considerable elevation above the sea, is cold and 
 sterile, but on the south side more genial and fertile ; 
 and generally a rich black loam, in some parts alter- 
 nated with sand. The chief crops are wheat, oats, 
 barley, beans, potatoes, and turnips; the system of 
 agriculture is much improved, and the farm-buildings 
 are substantial and commodious. The substratum 
 abounds with coal, of which an extensive mine on the 
 lands of Donibristle, belonging to the Earl of Moray, 
 is in operation, about two miles and a half from the 
 village ; and coal is also wrought on Cottlehill. Free- 
 stone of a white colour, and of compact texture, was 
 formerly quarried to a great extent, and much of it sent 
 to Edinburgh and Glasgow for ornamental buildings ; 
 and on the lands of the Earl of Morton is a quarry pro- 
 ducing stone admirably fitted for piers and other pur- 
 poses where great durability is requisite : large blocks 
 from this quarry were used in the construction of 
 Granton Pier. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £5581. 
 
 Aberdour House, the seat of the Earl of Morton, is a 
 spacious mansion on the west bank of the Dour, opposite 
 to the ancient castle, and surrounded with pleasure- 
 grounds richly wooded, and tastefully laid out. Hillside 
 is a stately mansion commanding views of the Firth of 
 Forth, the opposite coasts, and the adjacent scenery ; 
 and Whitehill Cottage and Cottlehill House are also 
 finely situated. The village of Aberdour is divided into 
 two portions called Easter and Wester, by the river 
 Dour, over which is a handsome bridge ; and to the 
 south of the western portion is the village of Newtown, 
 consisting of Sea-side-place and Manse-street. The 
 beauty of the surrounding scenery, the numerous retired 
 walks in the neighbourhood, and the fine sandy beach, 
 have rendered these villages places of favourite resort 
 Vol. I.— 25 
 
 during the summer months, for bathing ; and for the 
 accommodation of the numerous visiters, lodging-houses 
 are extensively provided. Steamers ply twice a day 
 from Edinburgh, during summer, and pinnaces daily 
 from Leith harbour, throughout the year. The manu- 
 facture of coarse linen was formerly carried on exten- 
 sively by hand-loom weavers ; but it has greatly de- 
 creased. On the Dour, about a mile from the old village, 
 is an iron forge, in which spades, shovels, and other 
 implements are made, and of which the great hammer 
 is worked by water power. There are also a brick-work, 
 and some saw-mills of recent establishment. Consider- 
 able quantities of coal are shipped from the harbour, for 
 exportation ; and several foreign vessels arrive weekly 
 for freights of coal from the mines. Between the har- 
 bour and Burntisland is an oyster-bed belonging to the 
 Earl of Morton, which is leased to the fishermen of 
 Newhaven. A fair is held on the 20th of June, chiefly 
 for pleasure. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Dunfermline and synod of Fife. The minister's stipend 
 is £207. 14. 6., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £13 
 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Morton. The church, 
 erected in 1/90, and repaired in 1826, is a plain build- 
 ing. There is a place of worship for members of the 
 Free Church. The parochial school is attended by 
 about 100 children ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., 
 with a house and garden, and the fees average £30 per 
 annum. An hospital was founded in Wester Aber- 
 dour by Anne Countess of Moray, who endowed it for 
 four aged widows, of whom three are appointed by the 
 family, and one by the clerk of the signet ; each of the 
 widows has a separate apartment, with an allowance 
 of coal and candles, and £5 per annum in money. On 
 the summit of a hill on the farm of Dalachy, was a cairn, 
 on the removal of which, during agricultural improve- 
 ments, were found a stone coffin containing a human 
 skeleton, several earthen vessels containing human bones, 
 a spear-head of copper, and various other relics. The 
 field adjoining the garden of the old manse is called the 
 " Sisters' land," from its having been anciently the site 
 of a Franciscan nunnery. Aberdour gives the title of 
 Baron to the Earl of Morton. 
 
 ABERFELDY, a village, partly in the parish of 
 Dull, and partly in that of Logierait, county of 
 Perth, 65 miles (N. E.) from Kenmore ; containing 823 
 inhabitants. This is a considerable and thriving village, 
 situated on the southern bank of the river Tay, and on 
 the great Highland road. It belongs solely to the 
 Marquess of Breadalbane, but is held, with a few excep- 
 tions, under building leases, of ninety-nine years' dura- 
 tion. The village is surrounded with thick and luxuriant 
 wood of hazel and birch ; and in its vicinity are the falls 
 of Moness, remarkable for the beauty and grandeur of 
 the scenery, and the majesty of their torrents, which 
 rush furiously from precipice to precipice, with a tre- 
 mendous and fearful roar ; the ascent is from the village, 
 and is attained by pleasing and varied walks, with seats 
 at intervals for the accommodation of the visiter. The 
 Moness mineral water, which was accidentally dis- 
 covered a few years ago, has been pronounced by conl- 
 petent authority to be an excellent chalybeate. The 
 river is crossed at Aberfeldy by a bridge, erected by 
 General Wade. Some fairs are held at the village ; also 
 a quarterly sheriff's court for small debts. In 1846 an 
 
 E
 
 A BER 
 
 ABE R 
 
 act of parliament was passed "for making a raiUvay 
 from the line of the Perth and Inverness railway to 
 Aberfeldy, to be called the Strathtay and Breadalbane 
 railway." There are places of worship for Independents 
 and members of the Free Church ; a post office, a branch 
 bank, and a savings' bank. The Evangelical Library, 
 instituted in 1823, has nearly 400 volumes, and there is 
 a literary society of recent formation, with a library in 
 connexion with it. — See Dull. 
 
 ABERFOYLE, a parish, in the county of Perth, 14 
 miles (W. by S.) from Douue, and 20 (W. by N.) from 
 Stirling ; containing 543 inhabitants. It derives its 
 natne from the situation of the church, near the mouth 
 of a rivulet called in Gaehc the Poll or Foile, which 
 forms a confluence with the river Forth, at this place an 
 inconsiderable stream. The lands originally formed 
 part of the possessions of the ancient family of Graham, 
 Earls of Menteith, and on failure of heirs male, about the 
 end of the seventeenth century, became the property of 
 the ancestors of the Duke of Montrose, the present sole 
 proprietor. This parish, which is in the south-western 
 portion of the county, forms the extreme precinct of the 
 Highlands, in that direction, and extends for nearly 
 fourteen miles from east to west, and from five to seven 
 miles from north to south ; comprising the beautifully 
 romantic vale of Aberfoyle, and part of the vale of the 
 river Teith, which abound with all the varieties of 
 Highland scenery. Between the vales are lofty moun- 
 tains, forming a part of the Grampian range, and of 
 which the highest are, Benvenue, having an elevation of 
 2800, and Benchochan, of 2000 feet above the sea. 
 From both these mountains, beneath which lies the 
 celebrated scenery of the Trosachs, are obtained ex- 
 tensive views of "the windings of the chase," and the 
 most interesting parts of the surrounding country, 
 described by Sir Walter Scott in his poem of the Lady 
 of the Lake. 
 
 In the parish of Aberfoyle are the Lochs Katrine, 
 Ard, Chon, Auchray, and Dronky. Loch Katrine, which 
 has a depth of about seventy fathoms, is about nine 
 miles in length and one mile broad ; the lofty, and in 
 some parts precipitous acclivities on its shores, are 
 finely wooded nearly to their summits, and the lake is 
 adorned with various rocky islets, which rise to a con- 
 siderable height out of the water, and are tufted over 
 with shrubs and trees, adding greatly to the beautiful 
 scenery for which it is so eminently distinguished. 
 Loch Ard, about four miles in length and one mile in 
 breadth, is divided into two portions, the Upper and 
 Lower Ard, connected by a channel 200 yards in length; 
 it is in the vale of Aberfoyle, and is bounded on one 
 side by the lofty mountain Ben Lomond, whose richly- 
 wooded declivity extends to its margin. On a small 
 island in the lake are the ruins of an ancient castle 
 built by the Duke of Albany, uncle of James I. of Scot- 
 land. Loch Chon, about two miles and a half in length 
 and one mile in breadth, is in the same valley ; it is 
 beautifully skirted on the north-east by luxuriant planta- 
 tions, and on the south-west by the mountain of Ben 
 Don, 1500 feet in height, the sides of which are covered 
 with forests of aged birch and mountain-ash. Loch 
 Auchray, near the Trosachs, and Loch Dronky, which is 
 two miles long and about half a mile broad, are both 
 finely situated, and embellished with rich plantations. 
 Of the above lakes, Loch Katrine and Loch Auchray 
 26 
 
 separate the parish from the parish of Callander. Be- 
 tween the mountains are several small valleys, about a 
 mile in length and a quarter of a mile in width, formerly 
 covered with heath, but which have been cleared, and 
 brought into cultivation. The river Forth has its source 
 at the western extremity of the parish, at a place called 
 Skid N'uir, or "the ridge of yew-trees," issuing from a 
 copious spring, and flowing through the Lochs Chon and 
 Ard. About half a mile to the east of the latter, it re- 
 ceives the waters of the Duchray, a stream rising near 
 the summit of Ben Lomond, and which is also regarded 
 as the source of the Forth, though the former is the 
 larger of the two. 
 
 The scenery of the Trosachs is approached from the 
 head of Loch Auchray. At this point an inn is situated, 
 the last human habitation on the route, and here tra- 
 vellers usually quit their vehicles in order to walk the 
 remainder of the distance ; the road will, however, 
 accommodate a chaise to the verge of Loch Katrine. 
 What is called the Trosachs is simply a concluding 
 portion of the Teith valley, about a mile in extent, and 
 adjoining to the bottom of Loch Katrine, just men- 
 tioned. From the tumultuous confusion of little rocky 
 eminences, of the most fantastic and extraordinary 
 forms, which lie throughout the bottom of the vale, and 
 are every where rendered shaggy with trees and shrubs, 
 nature here wears an aspect of tangled and inextricable 
 roughness : the hiUs, moreover, on each side of the con- 
 tracted valley, rise to a great height, and are entirely 
 covered by birches, hazels, oaks, hawthorns, and moun- 
 tain-ashes. The author of the Lady of the Lake has 
 described the Trosachs as "a wildering scene of moun- 
 tains, rocks, and woods, thrown together in disorderly 
 groups ;" and the meaning of the name in some measure, 
 also, describes the character of the scenerj', the word 
 Trosachs signifying a rough or bristled piece of terri- 
 tory. At the termination of this tract, commences 
 Loch Katrine. 
 
 The arable lands bear but a very inconsiderable pro- 
 portion to the pasture and woodlands. The upper, or 
 highland, part of the parish, which is by far the greater, 
 is divided principally into sheep-farms, upon which 
 scarcely sufficient grain is raised to supply the occupiers 
 and their shepherds ; the lower grounds are chiefly ara- 
 ble, and in good cultivation, yielding grain of every 
 kind, for the supply of the parish, and also for sending 
 to the markets. In the lower portions the soil is fertile, 
 producing not only grain, but turnips, with the various 
 grasses, and excellent crops of rye and clover ; the farm- 
 buildings, with very few exceptions, are commodious, 
 and mostly of modern erection, and the lands are well 
 drained. The sheep are of the black-faced breed, and 
 great attention is paid to their improvement. The cattle 
 on the upland farms are of the black Highland breed, 
 and in addition to those reared on the lands, great 
 numbers are pastured during the winter, for which many 
 of the farms are well adapted by the shelter afforded by 
 the woods ; the cattle on the lowland farms are chiefly 
 of the AjTshire breed. The whole of the woods, from 
 the head of Loch Chon to the loch of Monteith in the 
 parish of Port of Monteith, are the property of the Duke 
 of Montrose ; they consist of oak, ash, birch, mountain- 
 ash, alder, hazel, and willow, and are divided into twenty- 
 four portions, of which one is felled every year, as it 
 attains a growth of twenty-four years, within which
 
 A B E R 
 
 A B E R 
 
 period the whole are cut down, and renewed, in succes- 
 sion. On the west side of the mountains is limestone 
 of very superior quality, of a blue colour, with veins of 
 white, and susceptible of a high polish ; it is extensively 
 wrought near the eastern extremity of the parish, for 
 building, and for manure, solely by the tenants of the 
 several farms. To the west of the limestone range is 
 a mountain consisting almost entirely of slate, occurring 
 in regular strata, in the quarries of which about twenty 
 men are employed. The prevailing rocks are conglo- 
 merate and trap, or whinstone ; but the want of water 
 carriage, and the distance of the markets, operate ma- 
 terially to diminish their value. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish in £3600. 
 
 The village is situated near the eastern extremity of 
 the parish : the making of pyroligneous acid affords 
 employment to a few persons. A post-office has been 
 established as a branch of that of Doune ; and fairs are 
 held in April, for cattle ; on the first Friday in August, 
 for lambs ; and on the third Thursday in October, for 
 hiring servants. The lakes and rivers abound with 
 trout, pike, perch, and eels ; and char is also found in 
 Loch Katrine. Ecclesiastically the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Dunblane and synod of 
 Perth and Stirling. The minister's stipend is £158. 6. S., 
 of which part is paid from the exchequer ; with a 
 manse, and a glebe containing about nineteen acres of 
 good land, partly arable and partly meadow : patron, 
 the Duke of Montrose. Aberfoyle church, built in 1*74, 
 and thoroughly repaired in 1839, is a plain structure, 
 containing 250 sittings. Divine service is also per- 
 formed occasionally, by the minister, in the schoolroom. 
 The parochial school is well attended ; the master has a 
 salary of £'2S, with a house and garden, and the fees 
 average about £6 per annum. Near the manse are the 
 remains of a Druidical circle, consisting of ten upright 
 stones, with one of much larger dimensions in the 
 centre. The Rev. James Richardson, whose son WiUiam 
 was professor of humanity at Glasgow ; and the Rev. 
 Patrick Graham, eminent for the variety and extent of 
 his talents, and employed in revising an edition of the 
 Sacred Scriptures in the Gaelic language; were ministers 
 of the parish. 
 
 ABERLADY, a parish, in the county of Hadding- 
 ton, 4 miles (N. W.) from Haddington ; containing 
 1050 inhabitants, of whom 537 are in the village. This 
 place is situated on the Firth of Forth, and near the 
 mouth of the small river Peffer, supposed to have been 
 anciently called the Leddie, from which circumstance 
 the name Aberlady is said to have been derived. A 
 strong castle was built here in 1518, by Patrick Douglas, 
 grandson of Sir Archibald Douglas of Kilspindy : he 
 was treasurer of Scotland during the minority of 
 James V., but sharing in the fate of the Douglases, he 
 forfeited his estates, and died in exile. The parish is 
 bounded on the north and north-west by the Firth, and 
 comprises an area of about 4000 acres, chiefly under 
 tillage, with very little permanent pasture, and only a 
 small portion of woodland. Its surface is generally flat, 
 but has a very gradual rise from the coast to the south 
 and south-east ; and though attaining no considerable 
 elevation even at the highest point, it still commands a 
 richly-varied and extensive prospect over the Firth of 
 Forth in its widest expanse, the Pentland hills, the city 
 of Edinburgh with its castle, and the Grampian hills. 
 37 
 
 Near the coast the soil is light and sandy, in some parts 
 clayey, and on the more elevated lands a rich and fertile 
 loam. The system of agriculture is in an improved state ; 
 tile-draining has been extensively practised, and on all 
 the farms are threshing-mills, many of which are driven 
 by steam. Comparatively little attention has been paid 
 to the rearing of live stock ; but the number of sheep 
 and cattle is increasing, and it is not improbable that 
 in due time the farmers will be distinguished for im- 
 provements in the breeds of stock. The chief substrata 
 are limestone and whinstone, and coal is supposed to 
 exist in some of the lands ; the limestone is not worked, 
 but along the coast the whinstone is quarried extensively. 
 Clay of good quality for bricks and tiles is found, and 
 about twenty persons are employed in works for that 
 purpose. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £8151. 
 
 BallencriefF, the seat of Lord Elibank, is a handsome 
 mansion, in a richly-planted demesne, commanding some 
 fine views of the surrounding country. Gosford, the 
 seat of the Earl of Wemyss and March, upon which 
 large sums have been expended, was anciently a pos- 
 session of the noble family of Acheson, whose titles as 
 Barons, Viscounts, and Earls Gosford have been chosen 
 from this place, where was formerly a village that no 
 longer exists. The mansion is beautifully situated, and 
 contains an extensive and very choice collection of paint- 
 ings, most of them by the old masters. Luifness is an 
 ancient mansion, considerably enlarged and improved, 
 but still retaining much of its original character ; the 
 grounds are well planted, and laid out with exquisite 
 taste. The village is pleasantly situated, near the influx 
 of the PefFer into the Firth, and is neatly built ; a sub- 
 scription library has been established, and there is also 
 a parochial lending library. At this part of the coast 
 is a small haven, where vessels of seventy tons may 
 anchor at spring tides, but from which their return to 
 the sea is difficult when the wind happens to be westerly : 
 the haven is the port of Haddington, but the trade 
 carried on is insignificant. Great facility of communi- 
 cation is afforded by the North-British railway, which 
 passes through the parish. 
 
 At a remote period, there appears to have been an 
 establishment of Culdees near the village, probably 
 subordinate to the monastery of Dunkeld, on the 
 erection of which place into a bishopric, David L con- 
 ferred the lands of Aberlady and Kilspindy on the 
 bishop, in whose possession they remained till the Re- 
 formation. Gavin Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld, granted 
 these lands to Sir Archibald Douglas in 152'^, and in 
 1589 they were resigned to the crown, and the church 
 of Aberlady became a rectory, independent of the dio- 
 cese ; the patronage remained with the Douglas family, 
 from whom it passed to others, and ultimately to the 
 Earl of Wemyss, the present patron. The parish is in 
 the presbytery of Haddington and synod of Lothian and 
 Tweeddale ; the stipend of the incumbent is £280. ] 1 . 11., 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £27. 10. per annum. 
 Aberlady church, rebuilt in 1773, is a neat and sub- 
 stantial edifice, adapted for a congregation of 525 per- 
 sons : four handsome silver cups, for the communion 
 service, were presented by the Wedderburn family. The 
 parochial school affords a liberal course of instruction ; 
 the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4i., with £34 fees, 
 and a house and garden. 
 
 E2
 
 A B E R 
 
 AB E R 
 
 Till lately there were some remains of the castle of 
 Kilspindy, already noticed, situated between the village 
 and the sea-shore ; but they have now totally disappeared. 
 On the margin of a small stream which separates the 
 parish from that of Gladsmuir, are the ruins of Redhouse 
 Castle, apparently a place of great strength, the erection 
 of which is referred to the sixteenth century ; the lands 
 belonged in the fifteenth century to the family of Laing, 
 of which one was treasurer of Scotland in 1465, bishop 
 of Glasgow in 1473, and high chancellor in 1483. The 
 more ancient portion of the house of Luffness was for- 
 merly inclosed within a fortification, raised to intercept 
 the supplies sent by sea to the English garrison at Had- 
 dington; the fortification was demolished in 1551, but 
 the house was preserved. Near the site was once a con- 
 vent of Carmelite friars, to whom David II. granted a 
 charter ; and at Ballencrieff and Gosford were ancient 
 hospitals, of which there are now no remains. Along 
 the coast, stone coffins and human bones have been fre- 
 quently dug up, supposed to have been those of persons 
 slain in some conflict near the spot. 
 
 ABERLEMNO, a parish, in the county of Forfar ; 
 containing, with the chapelry of Auldbar, 1023 inhabit- 
 ants : the hamlets of Kirl\town and Crosston of Aber- 
 lemno are equidistant from the towns of Forfar and 
 Brechin, being about 6 miles from each. Aberlerano is 
 named from the small river Lemno, the word signifying 
 ■' the mouth of the Lemno." This stream, after flowing 
 a few miles towards the south-west, and winding north- 
 ward around the western extremity of the hill of Oath- 
 law, runs to the east, and falls into the Esk, about a 
 mile from its source. The parish is separated on the 
 north, by the Esk, from Tannadice and Careston, and 
 measures about six miles in length, and in some places 
 five in breadth. It forms part of a hilly district situated 
 towards the south of Strathmore, and the higher por- 
 tions, which are bleak, are mostly covered with broom 
 and heath, while the lower grounds are generally fertile, 
 though in one district subject to inundations from the 
 Esk. The hill of Turin is the highest eminence ; the 
 others attain only a moderate elevation : it rises about 
 800 feet above the level of the sea, commanding exten- 
 sive prospects, and by the plantations of fir upon its 
 slope contributing greatly to the improvement of the 
 scenery. The lake of Balgavies, on the southern boun- 
 dary, affords good pike and perch angling : it formerly 
 yielded a large supply of marl for manuring the lands. 
 The inhabitants, with the exception of a few engaged in 
 weaving and in quarrying, follow agricultural pursuits; 
 and the farmers pay much attention to the rearing of 
 cattle, considerable numbers of which, and large quan- 
 tities of potatoes, are sent to the London market. There 
 are four meal and barley mills, driven by water ; and 
 all the large farms have threshing-mills. Several quarries 
 of fine slate stone of a greyish colour are in operation, 
 supplying a good material for building, paving, and the 
 roofing of houses. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £6833. 
 
 In this neighbourhood are various old castles and 
 remains of strong places, including the houses of Auld- 
 bar and Balgavies, both of which are surrounded with 
 fine wood : the first of these consists of an ancient and 
 a modern portion, and that of Balgavies is compara- 
 tively modern, a single vault only of the more ancient 
 structure remaining. The house of Carsegownie has 
 28 
 
 been lately partially stripped of its ancient feudal ap- 
 pearance ; while the castle of Flemmington, a little to 
 the east of the church, retains all the distinguishing 
 features of the predatory era in which it was erected. 
 The Auldbar turnpike-road, connecting the railway sta- 
 tion of the same name with Brechin, passes through the 
 parish, as does also the turnpike-road from Forfar to 
 Montrose ; and there is a parish road from Forfar to 
 Brechin, running in a north-eastern direction through 
 the whole length of the district. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is in the presbytery of Forfar, synod of Angus 
 and Mearns, and in the patronage of the Crown and the 
 family of Smythe of Methven ; the minister's stipend is 
 £228. 6. 6., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 
 per annum. The present church was built upon the old 
 foundation, from about three feet above the ground, in 
 the year 1*22, and accommodates 450 persons with 
 sittings. The parochial school affords instruction in the 
 usual branches ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., 
 with fees producing between £12 and £14. There is a 
 library of miscellaneous works. The most interesting 
 relic of antiquity is the ruin of Melgund Castle, said to 
 have been built by Cardinal Beaton, and still indicating 
 by its extent and strength its former magnificence. On 
 the summit of Turin hill are the remains of an ancient 
 fort called Camp Castle, commanding most extensive 
 views, and supposed to have been raised as a watch- 
 tower. There are also numerous tumuli and cairns in 
 the parish, and several obelisks or monumental stones, 
 ornamented with various devices, one of the chief of 
 which is in the churchyard, exhibiting on one side a 
 cross in bold relief covered with flowers, and on the 
 other a number of martial figures, thought to be memo- 
 rials of important military achievements. The title of 
 Viscount Melgund is borne by the Earl of Minto, who 
 is proprietor of nearly half the parish. 
 
 ABERLOUR, a parish, in the county of B.\nff, a 
 few miles (W. N. W.) from Dufftown, and on the road 
 from Elgin to Grantown ; containing, with the village 
 of Charlestown, 1352 inhabitants. This parish, which 
 was formerly called Skirdustan, signifying in the Gaelic 
 tongue " the division of Dustan," its tutelary saint, de- 
 rived its present name from its position at the mouth 
 of a noisy burn which discharges itself into the river 
 Spey. It is situated in the western part of the county, 
 and extends nearly seven miles along the south bank of 
 the Spey, from the hill of Carron on the west, to the 
 mouth of the river Fiddich on the east. The surface is 
 very uneven. Towards the southern part is an almost 
 unbroken chain of mountains, consisting of the Blue 
 Hill, the East and West Conval hills, the mountain of 
 Benrinnes, and the broad hill of Cairnakay ; with part 
 of the hill of Carron, on the border of the Spey, and 
 separated from Benrinnes by a narrow valley. A deep 
 and narrow pass called Glackharnis, of great length, and 
 of uniform breadth at the bottom, separates the moun- 
 tain of Benrinnes from the Conval hills, and is remark- 
 able for the great height and regularity of its declivity 
 on both sides. The mountain of Benrinnes, as its name 
 implies, is precipitous in its ascent, and sharp on the 
 summit. It has an elevation of 2756 feet above the sea, 
 and of 1876 feet from its base, being the highest in the 
 country for many miles around. From the summit are 
 seen the Grampian hills to the south, the interesting 
 valley and hills of Glenavon to the west, and to the
 
 AB E R 
 
 A B E R 
 
 north the mountains of Ross, Sutherland, and Caith- 
 ness ; it embraces a fine view of the sea, along the coasts 
 of Moray and Banffshire, and forms a conspicuous land- 
 mark for mariners. The Conval hills are spherical ia 
 form, and profusely covered with heath ; and between 
 these and Benrinnes is the fine valley above mentioned, 
 the south part of which, consisting of sloping land, and 
 including the district of Edinvillie, is divided on the 
 north-east, by a brook, from the lands of Allachie, and 
 on the north, by the burn of Aberlour, from the district 
 of Ruthrie. To the north-west of Ruthrie is the dis- 
 trict of Kinnermony. The lands of Aberlour are watered 
 by two rivulets, descending from the Blue hill, and 
 ■which unite to form the burn of AUachoy, separating the 
 lands of Aberlour from the district of Drumfurrich. 
 
 These several districts contain some good tracts of 
 holm land, and form the principal arable grounds of the 
 parish, of which, upon the whole, not more than one- 
 half is under cultivation. The soil, near the river, is a 
 rich deep loam, mixed with sand ; towards the hills a 
 deep clay, lying on a substratum of rough gravel, and 
 covered with a thin alluvial soil ; and towards the 
 centre of the parish, a richer alluvial soil, resting on a 
 bed of granite. In the neighbourhood of Glenrinnes, 
 limestone is quarried for agricultural purposes, and, by 
 many of the farmers, burnt upon their own lands. The 
 principal crops are barley, oats, wheat, and peas ; and 
 the barley produced here weighs more, per bushel, than 
 that of the heavier soils of the adjoining parishes. The 
 Morayshire breed of black-cattle is raised, and the 
 sheep are of the hardy black-faced kind. Several of 
 the farms are inclosed with fences of stone, and the 
 farm-buildings generally are substantial and commo- 
 dious. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £3169. Here is the handsome seat of Aberlour, 
 occupied by Alexander Grant, Esq., the chief resident 
 proprietor : a column of the Tuscan order has lately 
 been erected on the estate. There are several flourish- 
 ing plantations of fir in the hilly districts, and of elm 
 and ash near the river, the banks of which are in some 
 places decorated with birch-trees of very luxuriant 
 growth. 
 
 The river Spey, from the rapidity of its current, and 
 the narrowness of its channel, frequently overflows its 
 banks, and damages the neighbouring lands. In 1829 
 a very destructive flood occurred, the waters rising to 
 the height of nearly twenty feet above the ordinary 
 level, sweeping away the entire soil of several fields, 
 with all their crops, and leaving upon others a deposit 
 of sand and rough gravel, to the depth of several feet. 
 A cottage and offices were carried away ; and the dry 
 stone arches which formed the approach to the bridge 
 of Craig-EUachie were entirely destroyed, only a few 
 yards of masonry being left on which the end of the 
 arch rested. This bridge consists of one metal arch, 
 more than 160 feet in span, abutting on a solid rock on 
 the north side of the river, and supported on the Aber- 
 lour side by a strong pier of masonry, built on piles. 
 It was erected in 181.5, at an expense of £8000, of which 
 one-half was defrayed by government, and the other by 
 subscription. The rivers Spey and Fiddich afford ex- 
 cellent salmon and trout ; the fishing season commences 
 in February, and closes in September. The parish also 
 abounds with various kinds of game. On the burn of 
 Aberlour, about a mile above its influx into the Spey, is 
 29 
 
 a fine cascade, called the Lynn of Ruthrie ; the water 
 falls from a height of thirty feet, and, being broken in 
 its descent by a projecting platform of granite rock, 
 richly adorned with birch-trees and various shrubs, 
 presents an interesting and highly picturesque appear- 
 ance. Fairs are held annually in the village of Charles- 
 town. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is in the pres- 
 bytery of Aberlour and synod of Moray : Lord Fife is 
 patron, and the stipend of the incumbent is £287. 8. 2. 
 The church, a well-arranged structure, erected in 1812, 
 is situated to the north of Charlestown, at a distance of 
 about 300 yards from the ruins of the old church near 
 the influx of the burn of Aberlour into the Spey ; Mr. 
 Grant has lately made an addition to the length of the 
 edifice, and erected a handsome tower. In the valley 
 of Glenrinnes is a missionary establishment, and a 
 chapel of ease has been erected, the minister of which 
 has a stipend of £60 per annum, royal bounty, with a 
 manse, glebe, and other accommodations provided by 
 the heritors. The parochial school affords instruction 
 in the Latin language, arithmetic, elementary mathe- 
 matics, &c. i the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4^. per 
 annum, with a house and garden, and the school-fees 
 average about £40. 
 
 ABERLUTHNOTT, in the county of Kincardine. 
 — See Marykirk. 
 
 ABERNETHY, a parish, in the counties of Inver- 
 ness and Elgin, .5 miles (S. W. by S.) from Grantown ; 
 containing, with Kincardine, 1832 inhabitants, of whom 
 1083 are in Abernethy proper. This parish, to which 
 that of Kincardine was annexed about the time of the 
 Reformation, derives its name from the position of the 
 church near the influx of the river Nethy into the Spey: 
 Kincardine, or Kinie-chairdin, implies the " clan of 
 friends." The united parish is fifteen miles long and 
 from ten to twelve broad, containing about 120,000 
 acres, of which about 3000 are in tillage, 40,000 forest 
 and plantation, and 77,000 uncultivated. It extends 
 from the borders of Cromdale to Rothiemurchus, and 
 the lower end of it falls within the county of Inverness : 
 the surface is mountainous and woody, interspersed 
 with corn-fields. The parish is bounded on the west, 
 throughout its entire length, by the river Spey ; and the 
 Nethy, when swollen, is of sufficient size to allow of the 
 passage of floats of timber into the Spey. There are 
 several lakes also, in Kincardine ; the chief is the oval 
 basin in Glenmore forest, which is nearly two miles in 
 diameter. The soil in some parts is deep raith, but 
 frequently thin and dry, and in some places wet and 
 cold ; wood is abundant, and about 7000 acres on one 
 estate are under fir of natural growth. Some of the 
 farms exhibit the appearance of superior husbandry, and 
 have substantial and commodious buildings. Improve- 
 ments have been carried on for a considerable time, to 
 the advance of which, the plentiful supply of limestone 
 in the parish, and of native fuel for preparing it, has 
 greatly contributed : every farmer, however small his 
 ground, has a lime-kiln in use. Parallel to the river 
 Spey extends a range of mountains, a branch of the 
 Grampians, which exhibits a great variety of rock : 
 commencing with the well-known Cairngorm and Ben- 
 Macdhui, its southern extremity, granite stretches to the 
 north, for several miles ; then appears primary limestone, 
 and this is succeeded by trap and micaceous schist.
 
 A B E R 
 
 A BE R 
 
 A regular " manufacture " of timber has been carried 
 on in the Abernethy district, for more than sixty years. 
 The Duke of Gordon, in 17S4, sold his fir- woods of 
 Glenmore, in the barony of Kincardine, for £10,000, to 
 an English company, who exhausted them ; and from 
 the forest of Abernethy, belonging to the Earl of Sea- 
 field, great quantities of timber are still forwarded yearly 
 to Garmouth or Speyraouth, by large rafts in the river 
 Spey : much of it has been formed into vessels of large 
 burthen, at the former place, and considerable quantities 
 sent to the royal dockyards in England. The trade was 
 immense during the war, the annual value for many 
 years averaging £15,000 : it is now considerably dimi- 
 nished, although still employing a large number of the 
 population. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £3442. 
 
 The parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Abernethy and synod of Moray ; the Earl of Seafield is 
 patron, and the stipend of the minister is £234. 2. 1., 
 with a glebe of the annual value of £~. The church in 
 the district of Abernethy, a commodious structure with 
 seats for 600 persons, was erected eighty or ninety years 
 since ; and that of Kincardine, a well-built edifice, seven 
 miles distant from the manse, containing about 330 
 sittings, was built in 1S04. There is a parochial school, 
 in which Latin, mathematics, and the usual branches of 
 education are taught ; the master has a salary of £25. 13., 
 with £22 fees, &c., and a house. A Gaelic school at 
 Kincardine is chiefly supported by £17 a year from the 
 Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. Several 
 ancient remains are to be seen, particularly of Druidical 
 circles ; and on rising ground near the church is an old 
 building, of which no satisfactory account has ever been 
 aflForded. The topaz called cairngorm is found in con- 
 siderable numbers in the mountain of that name ; and 
 at the end of Lochaven is an interesting natural curi- 
 osity, in the form of a cave, commonly called Chlach- 
 dhian, or " the sheltering stone," and which is sur- 
 rounded by vast mountains. It is sufficient to contain 
 a number of pers(ms, and people frequently take shelter 
 in it for security from rain and wind, after hunting or 
 fishing, and sometimes being driven by necessity. Some 
 pine-trees of immense size are to be found throughout 
 the forest : the trunk of one, at nine feet from the 
 ground, is nineteen feet in circumference. 
 
 ABERNETHY, a burgh and parish, partly in the 
 district of Cupar, county of Fife, but chiefly in the 
 county of Perth, 3 miles (\r. S. W.) from Newburgh ; 
 containing, with the village of Aberdargie, 1920 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 827 are in the town of Abernethy. 
 This place, originally called Abernethyn, is supposed 
 by some to have derived its name from the small stream 
 of the Nethy, flowing through the centre of the parish, 
 and so denominated from the old British term jieilli, or 
 nid, implying a"turning"or" whirling stream", of which 
 term nethii is a diminutive. But others are of opinion 
 that the appellation has been received from Nectan or 
 Nethan, one of the Pictish kings who dignified the place, 
 and of whose kingdom it was the capital. The most 
 ancient and credible of the Scottish historians agree in 
 representing this locality as the metropolis of the Pictish 
 nation, both in civil and religious matters ; but the 
 particulars relating to the erection of the church are 
 variously described. The Pictish Chronicle states the 
 edifice to have been raised by Nethan, or Nectan, I., 
 30 
 
 about the year 456, as a sacrifice offered to God and St. 
 Bridget, for the recovery of his kingdom ; whilst Fordua 
 asserts, that St. Patrick himself introduced St. Bridget 
 and her nine nuns into the religious establishment of 
 Abernethy. Others, however, think that the church was 
 founded and endowed towards the close of the sixth 
 century, by King Gamard M'Dourmach, or in the 
 beginning of the seventh century, by Nethan II., his 
 immediate successor. The church was shortly after 
 made the head of an episcopal see ; and here was the 
 residence of the metropolitan of the Pictish kingdom, 
 and probably of all Scotland, until the Picts were sub- 
 dued by one of the Kenneths, and both the see and the 
 residence of the bishop were transferred to St. Andrew's, 
 the head of which was afterwards acknowledged as the 
 national bishop. Abernethy was subsequently com- 
 prehended in the bishopric of Dunblane, founded in the 
 twelfth century, by King David I., out of the national 
 bishopric of St. Andrew's. 
 
 After the removal of the see from this place, the 
 church became collegiate, and was in the possession of 
 the Culdees, of whom but little is known with certainty, 
 except that this parish was their principal seat, and 
 that here they had a university for the education of 
 youth, in which the whole of the sciences were taught, 
 as far as they were then knowm. In the twelfth century, 
 by a charter of King William the Lion and of Lawrence 
 de Abernethy, the church and advowson of Abernethy, 
 with its pertinents, were conveyed to the abbey of 
 Arbroath ; and about the year 1240, the altarage of the 
 church was given with certain lands to the Bishop of 
 Dunblane, who in return, among other things, engaged 
 to provide for the service of the church, to enrol it 
 among his prebendal institutions, and to instal the abbot 
 of Arbroath as a prebendary or canon, with a manse and 
 privileges similar to those of the other canons. The 
 ancient monastery, in 1273, became a priory of canons 
 regular, and a cell of Inchaffray, all the Culdee institu- 
 tions yielding to the increasing power of the Romish 
 Church ; and this priory seems to have been afterwards 
 converted into a provostry or college of secular priests, 
 the church becoming a collegiate establishment. The 
 church was valued at the Reformation at £273 per 
 annum, and was afterwards a parsonage. 
 
 The civil occupancy of the principal lands appears to 
 have taken place at an early period. In the twelfth 
 century, Orme, the son of Hugh, received the lands of 
 Abernethy from King William the Lion, and from them 
 both himself and his posterity took their name. Alex- 
 ander de Abernethy, a descendant, swore fealty to 
 Edward I. in 1292, and was appointed by Edward II., in 
 1310, warden of the counties between the Forth and the 
 Grampians. His lands are supposed to have been for- 
 feited after the battle of Bannockburn, or to have been 
 continued in the family only by the marriage of his 
 daughters, the eldest of whom, Margaret, was united to 
 John Stewart, Earl of Angus, who thus obtained the 
 lordship of Abernethy, and whose grand-daughter, 
 Margaret Stewart, married William, Earl of Douglas. 
 Their son, George Douglas, on the resignation of his 
 mother in 1389, became Earl of Angus. This family, in 
 the earlier period of Scottish history, were numerous 
 and powerful : during their more intimate connexion 
 with the parish, they seem to have had a castle or place 
 of residence here, which tradition says was near the
 
 AB E R 
 
 ABER 
 
 house of Carpow ; and some of the most illustrious of 
 the Earls of Angus were interred in the parish. Ac- 
 cording to some authors, it was at Abernethy that 
 Malcolm Canmore did homage to William the Conqueror; 
 but so many different opinions exist on the point as to 
 render it altogether doubtful. 
 
 This TOWN, which is of great antiquity, and, from the 
 ruins discovered eastward of it, is supposed to have been 
 once much more extensive, is situated near the con- 
 fluence of the Tay and Earn rivers, on the south-eastern 
 border of the county, and adjoining Fifeshire, in which 
 county a small portion of it stands. The lands in the 
 vicinity, and throughout the greater part of the parish, 
 are interesting and beautiful, consisting of large tracts 
 highly cultivated, forming on the north a portion of the 
 rich vale of Strathearn, enlivened by the rivers ; on the 
 south the lands are for the most part hilly, occupying 
 about two-thirds of the whole area, and belonging to the 
 picturesque range of the Ochils. About a mile to the 
 east is the mansion of Carpow, a neat modern structure ; 
 a little beyond it is a small stream which separates 
 Abernethy from the parish of Newburgh, in Fifeshire, 
 and to the west is the mansion of Ayton House, skirted 
 by the Farg rivulet, which flows through the romantic 
 scenery of Glenfarg, and joins the Earn at Colfargie. 
 In the south-western district, about three-quarters of 
 a mile from the town, rises Castle Law, a steep grassy 
 elevation, 600 feet high, the summit of which is the seat 
 of a vitrified fort. It commands a beautiful view of 
 Strathearn and the Carse of Gowrie, with the interjacent 
 Tay, where there is an island named Mugdrum, belonging 
 to this parish, a mile in length, comprehending thirty- 
 five acres of rich arable land, and which is thronged in 
 autumn and winter with various kinds of water-fowl, 
 and sometimes is visited by fine wild swans. 
 
 The town contains a library, but no other institutions 
 of interest. The Perth line of the Edinburgh, Perth, 
 and Dundee railway company passes here, and has a 
 station. A large portion of the inhabitants, both male 
 and female, as well as of those residing in the villages of 
 Aberdargie and Glenfoot, in the parish, are employed in 
 weaving linen-yarn, for the manufacturers of Newburgh. 
 The trade consists chiefly in the sale of grain and 
 potatoes, the former being sent to the weekly market of 
 Newburgh, and the potatoes taken to Ferryfield, on the 
 estate of Carpow, where is a stone pier, and thence con- 
 veyed to the London market. The Earl of Wemyss has 
 fishings on the Earn, and there are others on the Earn 
 and the Tay, belonging to the estate of Carpow. A 
 brick and tile work is in operation j and a bleachfield 
 has been formed at Clunie, in the eastern district, which 
 has to some extent caused an increase in the population. 
 Besides the above mentioned line of railway, the 
 turnpike-road from Perth to Edinburgh passes through 
 the parish : several good roads, also, are kept in repair 
 by statute labour, one of them leading from Perth to 
 Cupar, in which line a new bridge was erected over the 
 Farg a few years since. There are two ferries, one at 
 Gary, and the other at Ferryfield. Cattle-fairs are held 
 on the 12th of February, the fourth Wednesday in 
 May, and the second Thursday in November ; they are, 
 however, in a very low state. 
 
 Abernethy is a burgh of barony, held under Lord 
 Douglas. It had a charter from Archibald, Earl of 
 AjJgus, Lord of Abernethy, dated the 23rd of August, 
 31 
 
 14/6, in which mention is made of a royal charter of 
 erection, in his favour, by King James II. By a charter 
 of William, Earl of Angus, dated the 29th day of No- 
 vember, 162S, the privileges were confirmed, and, among 
 them, the right of fairs and markets, the customs of 
 which were to be applied to the use of the burgh, unless 
 they amounted to more than 100 raerks Scots yearly, 
 when the surplus was to be accounted for to the superior. 
 The practice of the burgh has fixed the number of bailies 
 at two, and the councillors at fifteen, and by right of 
 charter the burgesses elect their magistrates ; the fee 
 for admission as a burgess, to a stranger, is 10s. 6(/., and 
 to the son of a burgess, half that sum. The bailies for- 
 merly exercised both a civil and criminal jurisdiction, to a 
 small extent, but their authority has been lately chal- 
 lenged ; they still, however, hold courts for petty 
 offences, from which there is no appeal but to the court 
 of justiciary or session. 
 
 The PARISH comprises about 7030 acres, of which 
 2568 acres are comprehended in the northern division, 
 forming the lowest part of the vale of Strathearn, and 
 the remainder consists of a portion of the Ochil hills. 
 The soil of the former is deep rich clay, black earth, and 
 sand ; and that of the latter, tilly, and resting on whin- 
 stone, among which numerous valuable pebbles have at 
 different times been found. All kinds of grain and 
 green crops, of the first quality, are raised on the lower 
 portion, where the lands are cultivated to the highest 
 degree ; the hilly part contains 950 acres of permanent 
 pasture, S50 acres in plantations, and 2660 arable, the 
 last producing oats, barley, turnips, potatoes, &c. The 
 whole farming of the parish is of the most approved 
 kind. The rocks between the Tay and the Ochils con- 
 sist principally of the old red sandstone, and the sub- 
 strata of the Ochils chiefly comprise the clinkstone, 
 amygdaloid, porphyry, and claystone varieties of the 
 trap formation. Gneiss, primitive trap, and quartz are 
 found in boulders, especially on the hills ; and quarries 
 of the greenstone and clinkstone rocks are in operation, 
 supplying a material for roads and coarse buildings. 
 Zeolites of great beauty are found in Glenfarg, and 
 agates, jaspers, &c., in many places ; there is limestone 
 in Auchtermuchty, and in the Glenfarg quarry have been 
 found scales of the ichthyolites. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £9626. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Perth, 
 synod of Perth and Stirling, and in the gift of the Earl 
 of Mansfield ; the minister's stipend is £2.56. 5. 7., with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £12 per annum. The 
 church, built in 1S02, is a plain but commodious edifice, 
 containing 600 sittings. There are places of worship be- 
 longing to the Free Church and United Presbyterian 
 Church, and another at Aberdargie connected with the 
 United Presbyterian Church. The parochial school 
 affords instruction in the usual branches ; the master has 
 the maximum salary, and the fees, together with about 
 £13. 13., chiefly arising from a bequest by Lord Stor- 
 mont, of £200, in 1748, and another producing £1. 13., 
 for teaching. On the top of a hill behind Pitlour, are 
 the remains of an ancient fort called the " Roman camp," 
 supposed by some antiquaries to have been occupied by 
 the Roman army before the great battle with Galgacus. 
 Many Roman antiquities have been discovered in the 
 parish, leading to the supposition that this people had an 
 important military station here ; and a Roman road is
 
 ABER 
 
 ABOY 
 
 said formerly to have existed, conducting to Ardoch, and 
 another to Perth. lu the south-western extremity of 
 the parish, in Fifeshire, is the ruin of Balvaird Castle, 
 situated among the Ochils, the property of the Earl of 
 Mansfield and his ancestors since the time of Robert 
 II., and which conferred a title on Andrew Murray of 
 Balvaird, who was settled minister of Abdie in 1618, 
 knighted in 1633, and created Lord Balvaird in 1641. 
 But the most interesting relic of former times, and that 
 which has excited the greatest interest, is a round tower, 
 to which there is nothing similar in Scotland, except at 
 Brechin, and the origin of which is altogether involved 
 in obscurity. It stands at the entrance of the church, 
 near the site containing the old college and ecclesiastical 
 estabhshment, and also the ancient church taken down 
 in 1802; and has a clock, and an excellent bell which 
 has been used from time immemorial for ecclesiastical 
 purposes, and to a certain extent by the burgh for civil 
 purposes. The building is seventy-four feet high, and 
 forty-eight feet round outwardly at the base, and con- 
 sists of sixty-four courses of hewn freestone, diminishing 
 a little towards the summit, where there are four 
 windows, equidistant, facing the four quarters of heaven, 
 each five feet nine inches high, and two feet two inches 
 wide. The walls, at the bottom, are three feet and a 
 half thick ; and opposite to the north is a door, eight 
 feet in height and three feet wide, arched overhead. 
 The structure is flat at the top, having a large projecting 
 moulding for the uppermost course of stones ; and, 
 being entirely hollow, and without staircase, is ascended 
 by scaling ladders attached to wooden platforms. The 
 Rev. John Brown, for thirty-six years minister of the 
 Associate Burgher congregation at Haddington, and 
 author of the Setf-inlerpreting Bible and other theological 
 works, was born at Carpow in 1*22. 
 
 ABERNYTE, a parish, in the county of Perth, 
 ten miles (W.) from Dundee; containing 280 inhabitants. 
 The name of this place is of Gaelic origin, referring to 
 the situation of the principal village near the confluence 
 of two rivulets, one of which is supposed to have borne 
 the appellation of Nyte. Very little is known concerning 
 the transactions that anciently occurred here. A battle 
 is said to have been fought in the parish between two 
 powerful families, the Grays of Fowlis and the Boyds of 
 Pitkindie, in which the latter were victorious ; and upon 
 the top of a hill called Glenny-law are two cairns, thought 
 to have been raised in consequence of this engagement. 
 This parish, including Glenbran annexed to it quoad 
 sacra, is about three miles in extreme length and two in 
 breadth, and contains about 1*03 acres under cultivation, 
 172 in good pasture, and about 341 in plantations, con- 
 sisting chiefly of larch and Scotch fir. It is bounded on 
 the north-west by the Sidlaw hills, the district lying 
 among those hills that rise gradually from the Carse of 
 Gowrie to the top of the ridge of Dunsinnan, the highest 
 point of which in this parish, called King's Seat, is 1050 
 feet above the sea. The most cultivated part of the 
 parish is situated 300 feet above the level of the Tay, 
 and about three miles only in a direct line from that 
 river. The numerous hills and vales in the locality 
 impart to the scenery a picturesque character, and fine 
 prospects may be had from several of the heights ; there 
 are many rivulets among the valleys, and at the head of 
 a romantic dell is a beautiful cascade, the waters of which 
 fall from a perpendicular height of almost forty feet. 
 33 
 
 In the lower parts, the arable land is in general of a 
 light fertile soil, lying frequently on gravel, and some- 
 times on clay, or on a mixture of both : in some parts 
 the earth runs to a considerable depth. The portions 
 of the higher grounds which are not planted, are covered 
 with coarse grass or heath. All the usual white and 
 green crops are produced, of good quality; the best 
 system of agriculture is followed, and great advantages 
 are said to have resulted from the consolidation of small 
 farms. The use of bone-dust for turnip husbandry, and 
 the practice of turning in the sheep to eat off the turnips, 
 have proved of much benefit. The implements of hus- 
 bandry are good, and the farm-houses and buildings 
 have mostly been placed upon an excellent footing ; but 
 the fences, which form an exception to the generally 
 improved appearance of the parish, are deficient in ex- 
 tent, and sometimes in very bad order. The rocks are 
 sandstone, with amygdaloid containing agates or pebbles. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £2041. 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Dundee, synod of Angus 
 and Mearns ; patron, the Crown. The stipend is nomi- 
 nally £ 1 50, but has lately fallen short of this sum : there 
 is a commodious manse, with a glebe of nearly seven 
 arable acres, and three of pasture, and a large garden. 
 The church, built in 1*36, and lately repaired, is situated 
 at the lowest extremity of the parish. A tabernacle 
 built about fifty years since, by Mr. Haldane, for a mis- 
 sionary, is now occupied by a congregation of United 
 Original Seceders. There is a parochial school, in which 
 instruction is given in every branch of education ; the 
 master has the maximum salary, with about £2* fees. 
 Several Druidical circles yet remain ; and in the parish 
 is also the " Long Man's Grave," a noted spot at the 
 road-side, north-east of Dunsinnan Hill, of which the 
 traditionary account states that one, guilty either of 
 suicide or murder, was buried there. 
 
 ABERTARFF. — See Boleskine and Abertarff. 
 
 ABINGTON, a village, in the parish of Crawford- 
 JOHN, Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 3 miles 
 (N. by W.) from Crawford; containing 135 inhabitants. 
 It is situated on the road between Glasgow and Carlisle, 
 on the river Glengonnar ; and has a station of the Cale- 
 donian railway on the other side of the river, in the 
 parish of Crawford. In the vicinity are vestiges of gold- 
 mines, said to have been explored in the reign of James 
 VI., and with some success. A school here is aided by 
 a heritor, with £6 per annum. — See Crawfordjohn. 
 
 ABOYNE and GLENTANNER, a united parish, in 
 the district of Kincardine O'Neil, county of Aber- 
 deen, 5 miles (W. by S.) from Kincardine O'Neil ; con- 
 taining, with the burgh of barony of Charlestown, 1138 
 inhabitants. The Gaelic words A, signifying a " ford," 
 and boinne or buinne, a "thin rippling water, " originated 
 the appellation of the first of these places, on account of 
 its proximity to a ford on the river Dee ; and the name 
 Glentanner is said to be compounded of the Gaelic 
 terms Glean-tan-ar, meaning " the glen of scanty arable 
 land." The date of union is uncertain ; but previously 
 to 1763, there was a church in each parish, the two being 
 served by one parochial minister. Glentanner, before 
 the union, formed a separate chapelry, and Aboyne was 
 then united to TuUich, an intermediate chapel being 
 situated at Braeroddach, equidistant from the churches 
 of Aboyne and Tullich. Ou the south bank of the Dee,
 
 A B O Y 
 
 A C H A 
 
 and surrounded by a burying-ground, are still to be seen 
 the remains of the old church of Glentanner, called, on 
 account of its heather thatch, the " black chapel of the 
 moor/' The portion of Aboyne on the north side of 
 the Dee formed two baronies, the burgh of which, now 
 named Charlestown, formerly Bunty, is near Aboyne 
 Castle ; but the tolbooth was destroyed at the close of 
 the last century, and all traces of the pot and gallows 
 have nearly disappeared. The Knights Templars once 
 had possessions here, given to them by the Bissets ; 
 from that body they passed to the Erasers of Cowie, 
 and from them to Lord Keith, whose daughter Eliza- 
 beth, having married Sir John Gordon of Huntly, car- 
 ried the lands and castle to the Gordons, with whom 
 they have remained. 
 
 The mam outline of the parish is irregular, rendering 
 the statement of an accurate measurement difficult; 
 besides which, there is a detached portion with a popu- 
 lation of about sixty, situated on the left bank of the 
 Feugh, about nine miles south-east from the church, and 
 separated by the parish of Birse. The length from east 
 to west, between extreme points, is supposed to be thir- 
 teen miles, and the breadth twelve miles -, comprising 
 37,000 acres, of which a small part is arable, and the 
 remainder moorland, natural pastures, and in wood. 
 This is a mountainous and woody district, watered by 
 numerous rivulets, among which are the Tanner, the 
 Feugh, the burn of Dinnet, and that of Dess, beautifully 
 winding in different directions, but all in subordination 
 to the stately and majestic Dee, which here pursues its 
 course through the middle of the parish, Aboyne lying 
 chiefly on the northern, and Glentanner on the southern, 
 bank. The district is bounded on all sides either by 
 rivers or mountains ; it is skirted on the west, south, 
 and east by ranges of the Grampians. The climate is 
 serene ; during heavy falls of snow, and the blowing of 
 the keener winds, it is intensely cold, but it is considered 
 salubrious, particularly about the banks of the Dee, and 
 the Tanner. Invalids frequently resort hither in sum- 
 mer, to enjoy a picturesque and romantic seclusion, and 
 to drink the goats' whey for which the place is cele- 
 brated ; while the heath-clad hills and Alpine forests, 
 ascended by steep and craggy slopes, afford exercise for 
 the more hardy, who, having reached the summits, are 
 amply repaid for their fatigue by the fine views around 
 them, embracing Aberdeen, Montrose, and many other 
 objects of commanding interest. 
 
 The SOIL near the rivers is a thin alluvial deposit, 
 formed, in consequence of the rapidity of the currents, 
 chiefly of sand and gravel ; but advancing towards the 
 hills, the earth is stronger and of better quality, con- 
 sisting of a black or clayey till. Extensive tracts of peat- 
 moss are found on the higher grounds, to a large extent 
 supplying the inhabitants with fuel. The only grain 
 raised is oats and bear. The farms vary much in size, 
 some being mere crofts, and others comprising more 
 than 100 arable acres ; but the latter are few in number, 
 and the average dimensions are from twenty to fifty 
 acres. Between 5000 and 6000 sheep, chiefly of the 
 Linton breed, are pastured upon the hills and moor- 
 lands ; and the black-cattle, to the rearing of which 
 much attention is paid, comprise the Aberdeenshire 
 horned and the Buchan polled breeds, crossed notunfre- 
 quently with the short-horned. The rocks mostly con- 
 sist of granite, existing in various forms, according to 
 Vol. I.— 33 
 
 the proportions of its constituent parts; gneiss is also 
 common, and ironstone, limestone, topaz, crystallized 
 quartz, and fullers'-earth are found. "The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £4001. About 4.500 
 acres of natural fir, a remnant of the ancient Caledonian 
 forest, still remain in Glentanner ; and on the estate of 
 Balnacraig, where stand the old mansion-house of the 
 same name and the house of Carlogie, about 1400 acres 
 are covered with Scotch fir, which is in a thriving state, 
 like most of the other wood in the parish. There are 
 also 2144 acces of plantations near Aboyne Castle, the 
 ancient seat of the Earls of Aboyne ; consisting chiefly 
 of Scotch fir, with many sprinklings of larch, oak, ash, 
 beech, elm, and other varieties. The castle grounds are 
 ornamented with an artificial lake of thirty-two acres, 
 interspersed with wooded islets. The castle was partly 
 rebuilt in 1671, by Charles, first Earl of Aboyne ; and the 
 east wing was added in 1801, by his great-great-grandson, 
 now Marquess of Huntly. This mansion is surrounded 
 with beautifully-wooded hills commanding extensive and 
 interesting views. 
 
 The village of Charlestown has a daily mail to Aber- 
 deen. The turnpike-road from that city terminates here, 
 but the communication is continued by good commuta- 
 tion roads, on each side of the Dee, to Ballatar and 
 Braemar; there are also commutation roads leading 
 hence in the direction of Tarland and other places, 
 and the parliamentary road to Alford commences here. 
 Numerous small bridges cross the different streams ; 
 and at Aboyne, nearly opposite the church, is an elegant 
 suspension bridge, erected in 1831, by the Earl of 
 Aboyne, in place of a former one built in 1828, and 
 swept away by the great flood in August in the fol- 
 lowing year. In 1846 an act of parliament was passed 
 for the construction of a railway from Charlestown of 
 Aboyne, along the valley of the Dee, to Ferryhill, near 
 Aberdeen. The trade in the sale of grain and cattle is 
 principally carried on with Aberdeen ; and besides the 
 cattle sold for this city, or forwarded by the steamers to 
 the London market, large numbers in a lean state are 
 sent to the south of Scotland or to England. Fairs are 
 held at Candlemas, Michaelmas, Hallowmas, and in June 
 and July, on a green between the village of Charlestown 
 and the church. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Kin- 
 cardine O'Neil, synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage 
 of the Marquess of Huntly. The minister's stipend is 
 £158. 6. 8., part of which is received from the exche- 
 quer ; with a manse, and a glebe of twenty acres of very 
 poor land, assigned in lieu of the old glebes of the two 
 parishes, when a central church was built for the united 
 parish, in 1763 : the present handsome edifice, contain- 
 ing 628 sittings, was erected in 1842, at an expense, 
 exclusive of carriage, of £900. The parochial school 
 affords instruction in the usual branches ; the master 
 has a salary of £26, with £28 in fees, and a portion of 
 Dick's bequest. The antiquities comprise Picts' houses, 
 cairns, tumuli, and the remains of encampments, of the 
 history of which nothing is known. Aboyne gives the 
 inferior title of Earl to the Marquess of Huntly. 
 
 ACHARACLE.— See Aharacle. 
 
 ACHARN, a village, in the parish of Kenmore, 
 county of Perth ; containing 42 inhabitants. It is a 
 small place, of which the residents are entirely engaged 
 in agriculture. The Acharn burn, a feeder of Loch Tay,
 
 AILS 
 
 AI RD 
 
 runs through the eastern portion of the parish. — See 
 Kenmore. 
 
 ACKERGILL, a village, in the parish of Wick, and 
 county of Caithness. It was anciently called Aikrigill, 
 and lies on the shore of Sinclair bay, and on the road 
 between Staxigo and Keiss. The lands were formerly a 
 possession of the Keiths, earls-raarischal, whose residence 
 here was Ackergill Tower, a spacious rectangular struc- 
 ture, the walls of svhich, thirteen feet in thiciiness, and 
 crowned with battlements, are eighty-two feet in height ; 
 it is in a state of entire preservation, and, from its anti- 
 quity, has an impressive aspect. — See Wick. 
 
 ADAMSROW, a village, in the parish of Newton, 
 county of Edinburgh ; containing '249 inhabitants. 
 
 AFTON-BRIDGEND, a village, in the parish of 
 New Cumnock, district of Kyle, county of Ayr ; con- 
 taining 261 inhabitants. This village is situated on the 
 banks of the Afton, a small stream tributary to the river 
 Nith, into which, flowing northward through Glen-Afton, 
 it merges near New Cumnock. The Afton gives name 
 to a barony, wherein is a lead-mine. The parochial 
 church is between the villages of Afton-Bridgend and 
 New Cumnock. 
 
 AHARACLE, or Acharacle, a quoad sacra parish, 
 in the parish of Ardnamurchan, partly in the district 
 and county of Argyll, and partly in the county of 
 Inverness; containing '2016 inhabitants. It is about 
 twenty-four miles in extreme length and ten in breadth ; 
 is formed, for the most part, of the eastern portion of 
 Ardnamurchan ; and includes the islands of Shonaveg, 
 Portavata, and Shona. The district is in the presbytery 
 of Mull and synod of Argyll ; the stipend of the minister 
 is £120, subject to a deduction for communion elements, 
 and there is a manse, with a glebe valued at £'2. 10. per 
 annum. The church, which stands at the west end of 
 Loch Shiel, and about four miles distant from the nearest 
 boundary of the district (the Western Ocean), was built 
 in 1829, and contains 270 sittings. Another place of 
 worship connected with the Establishment, is distant 
 from the parochial church about eleven miles. A great 
 portion of the population are Roman Catholics. A 
 school has been built by Sir James M. Riddell, Bart., 
 and endowed by government. 
 
 AIGASH ISLE, in the parish of Kiltarlity, county 
 of Inverness. This isle is formed by a division into 
 two branches of the river Beauly ; it is of an oval figure, 
 and about a mile and a half in circumference, com- 
 prising an area of fifty acres. Aigash is chiefly whin- 
 stone. It rises, in a slope, about a hundred feet above 
 the level of the water ; and being covered with natural 
 oak, birch, alder, and other trees, presents, with the 
 surrounding rocks, a beautiful and picturesque appear- 
 ance. The islet communicates with the main land by 
 a bridge. 
 
 AILSA, an island belonging to the parish of Dailly, 
 in the district of Carrick, county of Ayr. This island 
 lies in the Firth of Clyde, between the shores of Ayr- 
 shire and Cantyre, from the former of which it is dis- 
 tant eight miles. It is a rugged rock, about two miles 
 in circumference at its base, rising precipitously from 
 the sea to an elevation of 1 100 feet, and accessible only 
 on the north-east side, where a small beach has been 
 constructed. The rock is basaltic, and in several parts 
 assumes the columnar formation : at a considerable 
 height are the remains of ancient buildings, supposed 
 34 
 
 to have been originally a castle, with a chapel. A small 
 portion of its surface affords a scanty pasturage ; but 
 it is frequented merely by various aquatic birds, of which 
 the most numerous are the solan geese ; and the only 
 income arising from the island is derived from the 
 sale of feathers, for the collection of which, during the 
 season, a person resides on the spot. It was in 
 contemplation, some time since, to make this island a 
 fishing station, for the supply of Glasgow and Liverpool 
 by the numerous steamers which pass this way, and 
 the erection of some buildings for that purpose was 
 commenced, but the idea was subsequently abandoned. 
 The island gives the British titles of Marquess and 
 Baron to the family of Kennedy, who are the owners of 
 the property. It is mentioned by the poet Bums in his 
 song of Duncan Gray. 
 
 AIRD, a hamlet, in the parish of Inch, county of 
 WiGTON ; containing 18 inhabitants. It is situated 
 near the head of Loch Ryan bay, about a mile eastward 
 of Stranraer, and the same distance south-west of the 
 parochial church. 
 
 AIRDRIE, a town of extent and importance, in the 
 parish of New Monkland, Middle ward of the county 
 of Lanark, 11 miles (E. by N.) from Glasgow, and 32 
 (W. by S.) from Edinburgh; containing, in 1841, as 
 many as 12,418 inhabitants, of whom 25.56 were in the 
 then quoad sacra parish of East Airdrie, 3213 in that of 
 West Airdrie, 4666 in that of South Airdrie, and 1983 
 in that of High Church. This place stands on the prin- 
 cipal line of road between Glasgow and Edinburgh, and 
 occupies a slightly rising ground sloping westward, but 
 presenting no marked or interesting features. Little 
 more than a century ago, there was but a solitary farm- 
 hamlet on the site of this large, well-built, manufacturing 
 and commercial town. Within the last fifteen years, 
 the place has increased in wealth and population to an 
 extent unequalled by any other burgh in Scotland. It 
 owes its rapid growth to the rich and extensive beds of 
 ironstone and coal which surround it, and the conse- 
 quent opening of iron-works and collieries in the neigh- 
 bourhood ; whilst the situation of the town within a 
 moderate distance of the western metropolis of Scotland, 
 and other principal towns, has also given it a large 
 share in the weaving orders of the Glasgow manufac- 
 tures. In 1831, the population of the burgh amounted 
 to about 6000, and of the whole parish of New Monk- 
 land to 9S67 ; according to the census taken in 1841, 
 the population of the burgh amounted to 12,418, and 
 that of the whole parish to 20,511. Airdrie enjoys the 
 benefit of both railway and canal communication. The 
 streets are lighted with gas, and well paved ; the town 
 is watched by a party of police, and there is a company 
 called the Airdrie and Coatbridge water company. A 
 market for grain is held every Thursday, and fairs are 
 held on the last Tuesday of May, and third Tuesday of 
 November. Branches are established of the National 
 Bank, the Bank of Scotland, and the Western Bank of 
 Scotland. 
 
 The town was erected mto a free burgh of barony in 
 1821, by the act 1st and 2nd of George IV., cap. 60; and 
 by the general act 1st and 2nd of William IV., cap. 65, 
 it was made a parliamentary burgh, to share with Fal- 
 kirk, Hamilton, Lanark, and Linlithgow in the return 
 of a member to the house of commons. In 1S49 an 
 act was passed to extend and partly repeal the former
 
 AI R L 
 
 A I R L 
 
 of these statutes ; to provide for the municipal and 
 police government of the burgh ; and the better paving, 
 watching, lighting, and cleansing of the place. Airdrie 
 is governed by a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and 
 seven councillors, assisted by a town-clerk and a pro- 
 curator-fiscal. The town-hall is a neat edifice, com- 
 prising also a police office, and a small prison for the 
 temporary confinement of offenders previous to their 
 committal to the Airdrie bridewell, a large and well- 
 constructed building. There are, besides, different pub- 
 lic halls connected with the trade of the town, and a 
 theatre. Ecclesiastically this place is in the presbytery 
 of Hamilton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr : the East 
 church, containing 631 sittings, was erected in 1797, 
 and the West church, containing 1200 sittings, in 1835. 
 There are two places of worship for members of the 
 Free Church, two in conne,\ion with the United Presby- 
 terian Synod, and places of worship for other denomina- 
 tions. A town school is under the patronage of the 
 magistrates of the burgh, and the managers of the East 
 parish ; it is attended by about 120 pupils in summer, 
 and SO in winter. Chalmers is of opinion that Airdrie 
 is the Ardenjtii of the British triads, on the heights of 
 which Rydderech the Bountiful, King of Strathclwyd, 
 in 577 defeated Aidan the Perfidious, King of Cantyre, 
 and slew Gwenddolan, the patron of Merlin, who was 
 also engaged in the battle. Near Airdrie is a mineral 
 well of a sulphureous quality, called Monkland Well. 
 
 AIRLIE, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 4 miles 
 (VV. S. W.) from Kirriemuir ; containing 868 inhabit- 
 ants. The name of this place, written in ancient records 
 ErroUy, EroUy, Irolly, and Airlie, is altogether of un- 
 certain derivation : by some it is supposed to come 
 from the Gaelic term Aird, signifying the " extremity 
 of a ridge", which description is applicable to the loca- 
 lity of Airlie Castle. The parish is situated at the west- 
 ern extremity of the county, bordering on Perthshire, 
 and measures in extreme length six miles, from east to 
 west ; while the breadth varies from half a mile to four 
 miles ; the whole comprising 8600 acres, of which 
 6843 are cultivated, 1365 in wood, and 387 in pasture, 
 waste, &c. The southern part of the district lies in the 
 vale of Strathmore, from which the land rises towards 
 the north in a succession of undulated ridges, forming 
 a portion of the braes of Angus, and the southern Gram- 
 pians. In this direction, the Isla pours its waters 
 through a deep rocky gorge, out of the higher into the 
 lower country ; and the ravine, separating at Airlie 
 Castle into two channels, makes courses respectively 
 for the Isla and Melgum streams. The scenery about 
 this spot, which is highly picturesque, is to a great ex- 
 tent indebted for its attractions to the romantic Den of 
 Airlie, extending for above a mile from the confluence 
 of the two streams. The pellucid stream of the Isla, 
 sweeping in some places over a rocky channel, pursues 
 its winding course among the thickly-wooded and pre- 
 cipitous braes ; and the pleasing landscape in this part 
 is completed by the interesting feature of the Kirktown, 
 situated about one mile and a half south east from the 
 castle, and less than a mile east of the river. All the 
 streams are famed for their abundance of- fine, trout, and 
 are the favourite resorts of anglers ; the Isla and Mel- 
 gum are also much visited by salmon. In the Dean is 
 found the fresh-water muscle, often mistaken for the 
 pearl oyster so common in the South Esk ; and some 
 35 
 
 of the rivers are frequented by numerous migratory 
 birds, some of them being of very rare species. The 
 Den of Airlie is distinguished for its botany, containing 
 some plants that are not to be found in any other place 
 in Scotland. 
 
 The SOIL runs through the several varieties of fine 
 brown and black loam in most of the better portions of 
 the district. There are also gravelly, sandy, and clayey 
 tracts in different places, varying in quality from very 
 fertile to unproductive : on the sand and gravel is a 
 considerable tract of inferior soil which, if allowed to 
 remain long in grass, becomes overspread with broom. 
 In the northern part is a thin barren earth on a tilly 
 subsoil. But though much of the land is either very 
 poor or only of moderate fertility, there are some rich 
 tracts in the parish, particularly a long and broad strip 
 of deep alluvial loam, along the whole course of the 
 Dean river. The agriculture of the parish has been 
 greatly improved since the beginning of the present 
 century, and deep and extensive drains have been con- 
 structed ; furrow-draining, with tiles and stones, has 
 been practised, and shell-marl is much used as manure. 
 The number of sheep and cattle, and the superiority of 
 the breeds, furnish a striking contrast to the state of 
 the district in these respects about thirty or forty years 
 since. Most of the thinner soils are now covered with 
 flocks of native black-faced sheep, besides regular stocks 
 of Leicesters in other parts ; and in addition to the An- 
 gus, a very fine description of cattle is to be seen on seve- 
 ral of the larger farms, which is often crossed with the 
 Teeswater. Since the introduction of steam navigation, 
 large numbers have been sent to London, exclusively of 
 those sold at Edinburgh and Glasgow, and they obtain 
 the highest prices. 
 
 The strata consist entirely of the old red sandstone, 
 with the exception of a trap-dike crossing the channel 
 of the Isla, near Airlie Castle. The upper beds are in 
 general too friable for use, crumbling almost as soon as 
 they are exposed to the air ; but those at a considerable 
 depth are of tenacious consistence, and, having several 
 varieties of fine and coarse grain, are capable of being 
 applied to many purposes. Most of the rocks are over- 
 laid with debris, of different depth, and above are 
 usually beds of sand and gravel. At Baikie is a bed of 
 marl once covering forty acres, and extending from one 
 to six or seven yards in depth, but which has been 
 much employed for agricultural use : it lies under a sur- 
 face of peat. Antlers of deer and horns of oxen have 
 been found in the moss. Many plantations have been 
 formed in the present century, comprising the usual 
 kinds of trees ; but they are to a great extent in a pining 
 state, especially the larch, numbers of which have been 
 entirely destroyed by blight and canker. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £7434. 
 
 Airlie Castle, a plain modern residence, situated at the 
 north-western point of the parish, on a lofty precipice, 
 is the property of the family of Ogilvy, who became 
 connected with the parish in 1458, when Sir John Ogilvy 
 of Lintrathen, received a grant of the barony from 
 King James II. The family were created Barons Ogilvy 
 in 1491, and Earls of Airlie in 1639. One side only of 
 the ancient castle remains, the rest having been burnt 
 down by the Earl of Argyll, in the year 1640, during 
 the absence of the Earl of Airlie, a zealous supporter of 
 the royal cause, which event is celebrated in the popular 
 
 F 2
 
 A I 11 T 
 
 AI RT 
 
 ballad entitled " Bonnie bouse ofAirlie". The present 
 peer succeeded to the titles and property in 1849. Lin- 
 dertis House is a handsome edifice of recent date, beau- 
 tifully situated on the northern slope of Strathmore, 
 and commanding fine views of an extensive range of 
 country. A considerable number of the inhabitants of 
 the parish are engaged in weaving coarse linens for 
 Dundee houses. Several public roads, leading to some 
 of the great thoroughfares, pass through the place; and 
 the Midland Junction railway passes along the south- 
 eastern border. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the 
 presbytery of Meigle, synod of Angus and Mearns, and 
 in the patronage of the Earl of Strathmore ; the minis- 
 ter's stipend is £219. 1. o., with a manse, and a glebe of 
 nine acres valued at £12 per annum. The church is a 
 very neat edifice, built in 1781, and substantially re- 
 paired in 1S44. A Free Church place of worship has 
 been erected in the southern part of the parish, with a 
 manse. The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of 
 £34. 4. 4., with a house, and £13 fees. Near Cardean 
 are the remains of a Roman camp, and also of the great 
 Roman road which ran from this spot along the valley 
 of Strathmore. 
 
 AIRNTULLY, or Arntully, a village, in the pa- 
 rish of KiNCLAVEN, county of Perth, 8 miles (N.) from 
 Perth; containing 159 inhabitants. This place, of 
 which the houses are scattered in every direction, was 
 formerly of greater extent than it is at present ; and 
 though it has of late years considerably decreased in 
 size and population, it still exhibits a striking picture 
 of the ancient villages of the kingdom. It is now 
 chiefly inhabited by weavers for the linen manufacturers 
 of Cupar-Angus, Blairgowrie, and Newburgh ; and at- 
 tached to each of their cottages, is a portion of land 
 sufficient to maintain a cow, and to yield meal and 
 potatoes for the supply of their families. 
 
 AIRTH, a parish, in the county of Stirling, 65 
 miles (N.) from Falkirk ; containing, with the villages 
 of Airth and Dunmore, 1493 inhabitants, of whom 561 
 are in the village of Airth. The Gaelic term ard or 
 ardhe, signifying "a hill", is supposed to have given the 
 name to this place, the eminence called the Hill of Airth 
 being a conspicuous figure, and forming a striking con- 
 trast to the level district by which it is surrounded. 
 The parish is situated on the shore of the Forth, which 
 is its boundary on the north and east for about eight 
 miles and a half ; and contains the three small landing- 
 places or harbours of Newmiln, Airth, and Dunmore. 
 Its length, from north to south, is six miles and a half, 
 and its breadth three and a half; comprising 16,400 
 acres of land, mostly in tillage. The small river Pow 
 is the only water besides the Forth ; it rises in the 
 parish of St. Ninian's, and after being crossed by several 
 stone bridges, falls into the latter river near Kincardine 
 ferry. The prevailing soil consists of alluvial deposits 
 from the Forth ; and the layers of shells at a small 
 depth from the surface, on the lower grounds, afford 
 plain evidence that this portion of the parish formed 
 originally a part of the bed of the river. Most kinds of 
 grain and green crops are raised, averaging £100,000 in 
 annual value ; and the general husbandry, which has 
 been for some time advancing, is considered equal to 
 that of the best cultivated districts. The rocks com- 
 prise distinct varieties of sandstone, differing in colour, 
 texture, and extent; and there are several quarries. 
 36 
 
 Argillaceous rock of the fire-proof species also exists 
 here, on which rest beds of coal, belonging with their 
 appropriate strata to the great coalfield of Scotland, but 
 which are not at present worked, the pits formerly ia 
 operation, near the village of Dunmore, having been 
 closed since 1811 on account of their exhausted state. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £12,4'20. 
 The plantations are chiefly in the vicinity of the beau- 
 tiful Hill of Airth, and Dunmore Park, the most promi- 
 nent and striking portions of the parish. On the hill is 
 situated Airth Castle, a very ancient building, with a 
 new Gothic front, surmounted in the centre by a tower, 
 the whole forming a picturesque object from every part 
 of the surrounding country. In Dunmore Park is the 
 mansion of the Earl of Dunmore, in the Elizabethan 
 style, built about twenty-five years since, and standing 
 upon an extensive lawn richly diversified with trees, and 
 encompassed with grounds thickly planted, like those of 
 the Castle, with larch, Scotch fir, birch, oak, and beech. 
 About 185 acres of land, recovered from the sea, have 
 been added to the Airth estate, and 150 acres to the 
 estate of Dunmore, within the last fifty or sixty years : 
 the land is secured by embankments of soil and turf^ 
 defended by stone facings. Considerable tracts of moss, 
 also, are annually recovered by the employment of what 
 are called " moss lairds", who by hard labour are gradu- 
 ally reducing the large extent of moss, amounting to 
 between 300 and 400 acres, receiving for their work £24 
 per acre. 
 
 The parish is traversed by the Glasgow turnpike- 
 road, and there is constant communication with Edin- 
 burgh, by means of steam-boats plying on the Forth, 
 throughout the whole year. Over the small river Pow, 
 up which the tide flows for above a mile, is the Abbey- 
 town bridge, situated on the road from Airth and Dun- 
 more to Carron and Falkirk : it received this name 
 from a town, as is supposed, to which it led in a direct 
 line, and near which was an ancient abbey. There are 
 two old ferries, called Kersie and Higgin's Neuek, the 
 latter about a mile across, and the former half that dis- 
 tance. The small harbours of Airth, Dunmore, and 
 Newmiln are within the jurisdiction of the custom-house 
 of Alloa, and there are four registered vessels belonging 
 to the parish. An annual fair is held on the last Tues- 
 day in July, chiefly for the hiring of servants as shearers. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Stirling, 
 synod of Perth and Stirling, and in the patronage of the 
 family of Graham of Airth ; the minister's stipend is 
 £281. 12., with a manse, and a glebe of ten acres (in- 
 cluding the site of the manse and garden) valued at £27 
 per annum. The church, which is conveniently situated, 
 was built in 1820, and is capable of accommodating 800 
 persons. There is a place of worship for the United 
 Presbyterian Synod. The parochial school affords in- 
 struction in Latin, book-keeping, and the usual elemen- 
 tary branches ; the master has a salary of £34, and £40 
 fees. A school attached to the United Presbyterian 
 place of worship is supported by subscription ; and near 
 the north-west extremity of the parish is a school, built 
 and maintained by the Countess of Dunmore. A dead- 
 fund society was established in 1821, and the poor 
 enjoy the benefit of several considerable bequests. The 
 family of Murray, Earls of Dunmore, derive their title 
 from their ancient seat of Dunmore, in the parish. — 
 See Dunmore.
 
 A L FO 
 
 A LL A 
 
 AIRTHRIE, Stirling. — See Allan, Bridge of. 
 
 AITHSTING. — See Sandsting and Aithsting. 
 
 ALDHOUSE, a village, in the parish of East Kil- 
 bride, Middle ward of the county of Lanark. , This 
 place, which includes Crosshill, lies in about the centre 
 of the parish, and contains a branch of the parochial 
 school. — See Kilbride, East. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in 
 the parish of Bonhill, county of Dumbarton ; con- 
 taining 3397 inhabitants, of whom 3039 are in the 
 village, 4 miles (N.) from Dumbarton. This village is 
 on the west bank of the river Leven, and its population 
 has of late years very considerably increased, owing to 
 the establishment of bleach-fields and print-fields in the 
 parish ; the persons employed here, in these works, are 
 very numerous. Alexandria church is a handsome 
 edifice, and contains about 1000 sittings ; the minister's 
 stipend is £'206. 17. 4., with a manse, a glebe valued at 
 £6. 13. 4. per annum, and a right to fuel on a moss, 
 commuted for £4 worth of coal, and 13«. Sd. money. 
 In the village is a place of worship for Independents. — 
 See Bonhill. 
 
 ALFORD, a parish, in the district of Alford, county 
 of Aberdeen, 26 miles (W. N. W.) from Aberdeen; 
 containing 1037 inhabitants. This place, the name of 
 which is of uncertain derivation, is situated in the south- 
 western portion of a district nearly in the centre of the 
 county, called the How of Alford, a valley comprising 
 also the parishes of Keig, Tough, and Tullynessle and 
 Forbes, and entirely surrounded with mountains and 
 hills. The only event of historical importance is the 
 battle of Alford, which took place here on the 2nd of 
 July, 164.5, and terminated in the entire defeat of the 
 army of the Covenanters under General Baillie, by the 
 royal forces under the command of the Marquess of 
 Montrose, and in which Lord Gordon, the eldest son of 
 the Marquess of Huntly, was killed. On the field of 
 battle, the site of which is marked out by an upright 
 stone, the body of a horseman in complete armour was 
 found within the last century, by some men digging 
 peat ; and cannon-balls, military weapons, coins, and 
 other relies have been discovered near the spot. 
 
 The parish is about seven miles in extreme length, 
 and nearly three miles in breadth, comprising an area of 
 8715 acres, of which 4/67 are arable, 1169 woodland 
 and plantations, about 200 rich meadow, and the re- 
 mainder mountain pasture, moss, and waste. In the 
 north-eastern part the surface is almost level, but to the 
 south and west are ranges of nearly contiguous hills of 
 circular form, of which the bases have an elevation of 
 420 and the summits of 800 feet, and which increase 
 in height towards the mountain of Callievar, on the 
 western boundary, which has an elevation of 1480 feet 
 above the sea. The principal river is the Don ; it forms 
 the northern boundary of the parish, and is here about 
 120 feet wide, flowing from east to west, between verdant 
 banks of great beauty. The river Leochel has its 
 source in the parish of Leochel-Cushnie, is scarcely 
 twenty-five feet in breadth, and flows into the Don ; the 
 burn of Bents, a still smaller stream, skirts the parish 
 on the east, and the burn of Buckie, the smallest, flows 
 through the eastern portion of the parish. The Don 
 and the Leochel abound with trout. There are also 
 numerous springs of excellent water, and some slightly 
 chalybeate. 
 37 
 
 The SOIL is mostly a dry friable loam, well adapted 
 for turnips, and in some parts of great depth and fer- 
 tility; the crops are oats, bear, potatoes, and turnips. 
 The system of agriculture is in an improved state ; 
 much waste land has been reclaimed ; the farm build- 
 ings are in general substantial and commodious, and 
 the lands are inclosed with stone dykes. Great atten- 
 tion is paid to the improvement of live stock, for which 
 the hills afford good pasture ; the sheep, with the excep- 
 tion of a few of the black-faced, are usually of the Leices- 
 tershire and Merino breeds, reared chiefly for their wool, 
 and about 800 are generally fed in the pastures. The 
 rearing of black-cattle, however, is the main dependence 
 of the farmers, and of these about 2000 head are kept, 
 chiefly of the Aberdeenshire polled breed, and a cross 
 between it and the short-horned : a great number are 
 now fed off annually for the London market, where they 
 command the highest prices. The plantations are of 
 larch, Scotch, and spruce firs, beech, elm, ash, moun- 
 tain-ash, lime, plane, oak, willow, birch, and poplar. 
 The rocks are principally of the primitive formation, 
 chiefly micaceous schist, and granite, of which latter 
 there are several varieties, some resembling the grey 
 granite of Aberdeen, and others the red granite of Peter- 
 head : many of the rocks are almost in a state of de- 
 composition. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £4627. Haughton, the seat of the principal 
 landed proprietor, is an elegant mansion of dressed 
 granite, beautifully situated on the bank of the Don, in 
 a wide demesne tastefully laid out, and embellished with 
 thriving plantations. Breda, another seat, and Kings- 
 ford, recently built, are also handsome houses. 
 
 The village consists for the most part of houses of 
 neat appearance, to each of which is attached a portion 
 of land, and extends for about three-quarters of a mile 
 along the road to Aberdeen. A post-office has been es- 
 tablished, and facility of communication is afforded by 
 good roads, and by substantial bridges across the various 
 streams, one of which, over the Don, an elegant struc- 
 ture of granite, was erected in 1810, by the Parliamen- 
 tary Commissioners, at a cost of £2000. In 1846 an 
 act of parliament was passed authorizing the construc- 
 tion of a railway from Alford to Kintore, nearly sixteen 
 miles in length. Fairs are held for black-cattle, horses, 
 and sheep, on the Tuesday before the second Wednes- 
 day in June (N. S.), and the Friday after the second 
 Thursday in September (O. S.) ; and markets for black- 
 cattle and grain, on the first Monday in every month, 
 from October till May. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Alford and synod 
 of Aberdeen : the minister's stipend is £206. 17. 4., 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £6. 13. 4. per 
 annum ; patron, the Crown. Alford church, erected in 
 1804, and enlarged in 1826, is a neat structure contain- 
 ing 550 sittings. The parochial school is attended by 
 about eighty children ; the master has a salary of 
 £34. 4. 4., augmented by the proceeds of bequests, &c., 
 to £38, and the fees average about £15 annually. On 
 the summit of a hill called Carnaveran (a name sup- 
 posed to signify " the Cairn of Sorrow ") is a cairn in 
 the form of a truncated cone, 120 feet in diameter at 
 the base, in removing a portion of which were found 
 several coffins of flat stones. 
 
 ALLAN, BRIDGE OF, a village, in the parish of 
 LoGiE, county of Stirling, 4 miles (N.) from Stirling;
 
 A L L O 
 
 A LLO 
 
 containing several hundred inhabitants. This village, 
 which is pleasantly situated on the banks of the river 
 Allan, formerly consisted only of a few irregular and 
 detached cottages, and derived its chief importance from 
 an ale and porter brewery that had been established 
 here, towards the close of the last century. From its 
 pro.viraity, however, to the mineral spring of Airthrie, 
 and also to the well of Dunblane, the water of which, 
 discovered in 1814, has been found to possess similar 
 properties, but of milder operation, the village has 
 rapidly increased in extent and population, and, on the 
 failure of a project for conveying the water of the latter 
 by pipes into the town of Dunblane, has, in that re- 
 spect, attained precedence before Dunblane as a place of 
 fashionable resort. An excellent inn for the accommo- 
 dation of visiters, and numerous houses for the recep- 
 tion of families residing here during the summer months, 
 have been erected within the last few years ; and good 
 shops, amply stored with articles of every kind, have 
 been opened for their convenience. Here is also a 
 station of the Scottish Central Railway. The environs 
 abound with pleasing scenery, among which the grounds 
 of Keir House form a conspicuous feature ; and are 
 interspersed with handsome villas, inhabited by opulent 
 famiUes. The river, near the village, rushes with im- 
 petuosity along a deep glen richly wooded, forming an 
 interesting and secluded retreat. Airthrie spring rises 
 on the high grounds above the village, on the estate of 
 Airthrie, and was discovered during the working of a 
 copper-mine. The water is a saline aperient, similar to 
 that of Cheltenham, but not so strong, containing as its 
 chief ingredients common salt, muriate of lime, and 
 sulphate of lime : it has been fast advancing in reputa- 
 tion, especially for scorbutic complaints. The water of 
 Dunblane well has been analysed by Dr. John Murray, 
 an eminent physician, and found to contain, in one im- 
 perial pint, '24 grains of muriate of soda ; of muriate of 
 lime, 18 grains ; of sulphate of lime, 3'5 grains ; of car- 
 bonate of lime, "5 grains; and of oxide of iron, '17 
 grains. The woollen manufacture is carried on to a 
 small extent, for which there is a mill at the hamlet of 
 Keir : and there is also a paper manufactory. The 
 members of the Free Church have a place of worship. 
 
 ALLANTON, a village, in the parish of Edrom, 
 county of Berwick, 1^: mile (S.) from Chirnside ; con- 
 taining 26r inhabitants. This village, which is situated 
 at the confluence of the rivers Whitadder and Black- 
 adder, is neatly built, and inhabited chiefly by persons 
 employed in the manufactories in the neighbourhood ; 
 some of the houses are detached, and surrounded with 
 pleasant gardens. A considerable traffic is carried on 
 in coal, which is brought from the county of Northum- 
 berland, and also from Eyemouth, to which place it is 
 sent by sea from Newcastle. There is a daily delivery 
 of letters in the village, by a branch from the post-office 
 at Dunse. A place of worship in connexion with the 
 Free Church has been erected. 
 
 ALLOA, a burgh of barony, sea-port town, and 
 parish, in the county of Clackmann.\x, 7 miles (E.) 
 from Stirling ; containing, with the villages of Cambus, 
 Coalyland, Holton-Square, and Tullibody, 79'21 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom 5434 are in the burgh. This place, the 
 name of wliich, in various documents written Aiileiiay 
 and Alloway, is supposed to signify in the Gaelic 
 language " the wav to the sea ", includes also the ancient 
 38 
 
 parish of Tullibody, memorable for the erection of its 
 village, in 834, by Kenneth M'Alpine, on the plain 
 where he encamped the main body of his army pre- 
 viously to the victory which put an end to the Pictish 
 dynasty in Scotland. In 1149, David I. erected, and 
 annexed to the abbey of Cambuskenneth founded by 
 him on the field where the battle took place, the church 
 of Tullibody, which he endowed with land, and with 
 some islands in the Firth of Forth, for the maintenance 
 of the officiating priests. In 1.559, the French forces 
 under General D'Oysel, who were stationed on the coast 
 of Fife, on the appearance of the English fleet made a 
 precipitate retreat to Stirling ; but being retarded in 
 their progress by Kirkcaldy of Grange, who had broken 
 down the bridge of Tullibody, they unroofed the church, 
 and, converting the timbers into a temporary bridge, 
 effected their escape across the Forth. The church, thus 
 exposed to the injuries of the weather, soon fell into a 
 state of dilapidation ; and the parish of Tullibody, about 
 the time of the Reformation, became united to that of 
 Alloa. In 1645, the Earl of Montrose, on the night 
 before the battle of Kilsyth, encamped his forces in the 
 woods of Tulhbody, and was hospitably entertained by 
 the Earl of Mar in his castle of Alloa. 
 
 The family of Erskine, ancestors of the Earls of Mar, 
 were distinguished at an early period for their eminent 
 services ; and John, the fifth earl, who became Regent 
 of Scotland, was entrusted with the guardianship of 
 !Mary, Queen of Scots, who, during her infancy, remained 
 under his protection at Alloa Castle till 1548, when, by 
 order of the estates of the kingdom, he conveyed her to 
 the court of France. John, the sixth earl, was appointed 
 guardian to the infant monarch, James VI., who spent 
 many of his earlier years at AUoa, and also at Stirling. 
 The castle of Alloa, anciently one of the residences of 
 the Scottish kings, was in the thirteenth century given 
 by David II. to Lord Erskine, in exchange for the 
 estate of Strathgartney, in the county of Perth. Of the 
 ancient edifice, one tower only is now remaining, eighty- 
 nine feet in height, and the walls eleven feet in thickness ; 
 the other portions of the buildings which constituted the 
 family residence, were destroyed by an accidental fire in 
 1800, and a splendid mansion has been since erected by 
 the Earl of Mar. This is a spacious structure, of white 
 freestone from a quarry in the park, beautifully situated 
 on a gentle acclivity, within about '■200 yards of the old 
 tower, and inclosing a quadrangular area ISO feet in 
 length, and 120 feet in breadth. The principal front 
 occupies the whole width of the area, forming an 
 elegant specimen of the Grecian style ; and the in- 
 terior contains numerous stately apartments, superbly 
 decorated. Four entrance lodges, also, have been re- 
 cently built ; but the whole of the arrangements are 
 not yet completed. 
 
 The TOWN is situated on the Firth of Forth, and, 
 though irregularly built, consists of several good streets. 
 John-street, planned by John, Earl of Mar, in the year 
 1704, is about eighty feet in width, leading to the quay, 
 and terminating in a gravel-walk, shaded by a row of 
 lime-trees on each side, and forming a pleasant prome- 
 nade. The old houses in the principal streets have been 
 mostly taken down, and replaced with modern buildings 
 of handsome appearance ; and many of the shops dis- 
 play much elegance of style. The streets are well paved, 
 and lighted with gas from works erected in 1S21, by a
 
 ALLO 
 
 ALLO 
 
 company of shareholders, at an expense of £3000 ; the 
 inhabitants are also amply supplied with water, con- 
 veyed into the town by pipes, from springs in the vici- 
 nity. Considerable additions have been made to the 
 town, which is rapidly extending towards the west ; 
 and within the few last years numerous villas have 
 been erected in that direction. The Clackmannanshire 
 library, founded here in 1797, is supported by annual 
 subscriptions of ten shillings each, and contains a col- 
 lection of more than 1500 volumes ; there are also a 
 reading and news room, an Odd-Fellows' hall, and an 
 assembly-room. A mechanics' institution was esta- 
 blished in 1826, which was for some time well supported, 
 but of late has not been so warmly patronized : con- 
 nected with it is a library of 470 volumes. 
 
 The principal manufacture is that of woollens, 
 which, though formerly of very limited extent, has lat- 
 terly much increased, several additional mills having 
 been erected on a large scale. There are at present six 
 factories, four of which are worked by steam. The 
 chief articles are yarns, plaiding, shawls, tartans, drug- 
 gets, blankets, and cloth of various kinds, together 
 affording employment to ^OO men, seventy-two women, 
 and ninety children ; and connected with the factories, 
 is an extensive establishment for the manufacture of 
 machinery. The glass manufacture, for which works, 
 commenced at an early period, were extended by a joint- 
 stock company in 182.5, produces glass bottles equal to 
 those of Newcastle in Northumberland. There are eight 
 extensive breweries, five of which are in the town ; the ale 
 produced is in high repute, and is sent in large quantities 
 to London, and exported to the continent. North and 
 South America, the East and West Indies, and other 
 places. Large distilleries are conducted at Cambus and 
 Carse Bridge. At that of Cambus, nearly 6000 gallons 
 are produced weekly, consuming about 374 quarters of 
 malt, and feeding 400 head of cattle ; there are sixty 
 men employed in the establishment, and the amount of 
 duty paid to government exceeds £50,000 per annum. 
 The distillery at Carse Bridge is nearly equal in extent. 
 Extensive tanneries are carried on at Tullibody, in which 
 leather is made to the amount of £20,000 annually ; 
 and there are also works for the manufacture of glue, 
 belonging to the same company, and mills, driven by 
 steam, for grinding bones for manure, together affording 
 employment to about forty men. The iron-foundry, and 
 works for the manufacture of steam-engines, are also 
 very extensive, employing nearly 100 men. There are 
 large potteries for white and coloured earthenware of 
 every kind, and the manufacture of bricks and tiles 
 occupies more than forty persons ; the fire-bricks made 
 here are considered equal to those of Stourbridge, and 
 adjoining the works is a commodious wharf for shipping 
 the produce. Ship-building is also carried on ; vessels 
 of 300 or 400 tons' burthen are frequently built, and in 
 1845 a vessel of 800 tons was launched here for the 
 foreign trade. Boat-building is pursued, and there is a 
 dry-dock for repairing vessels ; the making of sails and 
 ropes is also considerable, and there are numerous mills, 
 driven by water and steam. 
 
 The PORT includes the creeks of Kincardine and 
 Stiriing, and is a bonding port. It carries on an exten- 
 sive coasting, and a considerable foreign, trade, the 
 latter chiefly with Holland and the Baltic. The prin- 
 cipal exports are coal, pig-iron, woollen goods, glass, ale, 
 39 
 
 whisky, leather, bricks, and tiles ; the chief imports 
 coastwise are grain, malt, wine, groceries, wool, and 
 fullers'-earth, and, from foreign ports, timber, deals, 
 hemp, oak-bark, and bones for manure. The amount of 
 registered tonnage, including the creeks, is about 19,000 
 tons, of which about 10,000 belong to Alloa; the num- 
 ber of vessels that entered inwards in 1838 was 600, 
 and the number that cleared outwards, 1250. Alloa 
 harbour is accessible at high water to vessels of large 
 burthen, and shipping may lie in safety at the quays, 
 which are commodiously adapted to the loading and 
 unloading of the cargoes, and on which is a custom- 
 house. A steam-boat ferry is maintained across the 
 Firth. It is a singular circumstance connected with 
 the tides in this district, that there are wliat are called 
 double or " leaky " tides, chiefly observed at high and 
 low water, during spring-tides : when the tide has flowed 
 apparently to its full height, it ebbs and flows down- 
 wards, until it has sunk from a foot to fifteen inches 
 perpendicularly ; the flowing then returns, and fre- 
 quently overflows the first flowing, more than a foot in 
 height. The market-days are Wednesday and Saturday, 
 the latter being the principal. Fairs are held on the 
 second Wednesday in Feb., May, August, and Novem- 
 ber ; the August fair, which is the most numerously 
 attended, is for hiring servants, and for general business, 
 and the other three are for cattle. The post-office has a 
 delivery twice a day ; and facihties of intercourse are 
 afforded by the Stirling and Dunfermline railway, which 
 passes by Alloa : the Stirling and Granton steamers, 
 also, call here. Alloa was erected into a burgh of ba- 
 rony in the reign of Robert Bruce, and is governed by 
 a baron bailie, appointed by the Earl of Mar ; the courts 
 of the sheriff and justices of peace have been transferred 
 from Clackmannan to this town, and a county prison 
 has been recently built here. 
 
 The PARISH, which is bounded on the south by the 
 Forth, and on the east partly by the Black Devon, is of 
 very irregular form, comprising about 5000 acres, of 
 which 4375 are arable, 514 woodland and plantations, 
 and the remainder waste. Its surface, though not 
 mountainous, is beautifully diversified with hills of 
 moderate height, and fertile valleys. From the higher 
 of the eminences, none of which exceed 400 feet in ele- 
 vation above the Forth, are views of picturesque and 
 romantic character ; a fine tract of rich carse land ex- 
 tends along the banks of the Forth, and the scenery, 
 enriched with wood, and interspersed with streams, is 
 of very pleasing aspect. The river Devon flows through 
 the south-western portion of the parish, into the Forth, 
 at the village of Cambus, about two miles from Alloa ; 
 and the Black Devon, after forming part of its eastern 
 boundary, takes a western course, and flows through the 
 parish into the Firth of Forth at Clackmannan. A 
 large reservoir called Gartmorn Dam, 160 acres in 
 extent, and thirty-seven feet in depth, was formed by 
 John, Earl of Mar, about the year 1700, by throwing a 
 dam-head across the Black Devon at Forest Mill ; the 
 bed of that river was thus raised sixteen feet above its 
 former level, and from it he carried an aqueduct of four 
 miles in length, for the supply of this reservoir, which he 
 constructed for driving the machinery of the Alloa 
 colliery, and of several mills. 
 
 The soil of the lower lands is richly fertile, but of the 
 higher, thin and light, on a cold tilly bottom ; the prin-
 
 AL LO 
 
 ALNE 
 
 cipal crops are wheat, barley, beans, peas, and oats, with 
 the various green crops. The system of husbandry has 
 been much improved under the auspices of the Clack- 
 mannanshire Agricultural Society ; the lands have been 
 well drained and partially inclosed, and many of the 
 farm-buildings are now of a superior description. The 
 cattle are chiefly of the Ayrshire breed, with a few of the 
 short-horned, though no great number are reared ; and 
 a few sheep, of various kinds, are fed for the butcher. 
 Very little of the ancient forests of Clackmannanshire is 
 now remaining ; the principal woods are those of Tulli- 
 body, in which are many stately trees of venerable 
 growth. The plantations consist mostly of oak and 
 other hard-wood trees, intermixed with firs ; they are 
 regularly thinned, and are in a thriving state. The 
 substrata are, sandstone of different colours, clayslate, 
 limestone, and coal, which last occurs in seams varying 
 from a few inches to nine feet in thickness. Of the 
 sandstone two quarries are wrought, to a very moderate 
 extent, one affording stone of white, and the other of 
 a reddish, colour. The coal is extensively worked in 
 three several fields, the Coalyland, the Carse Bridge, and 
 the Sauchy, which extends into the parish of Clack- 
 mannan ; the average quantity annually raised amounts 
 to nearly 80,000 tons, which are conveyed to the harbour 
 at Alloa. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £21,951. Tullibody House, the seat of Lord 
 Abercromby, and the birth-place of General Sir Ralph 
 Abercromby, is pleasantly situated on the bank of the 
 Fortii, in a richly-planted demesne abounding with fine 
 old timber, and surrounded by thriving plantations. 
 Shaw Park House, a seat of the Earl of Mansfield's, 
 formerly the property of the Cathcart family, is a hand- 
 some mansion on elevated ground, about two miles to 
 the north of the Forth, and commanding a very exten- 
 sive view embracing the windings of the river, with the 
 castle of Stirling, and the mountains of Ben-Lomond, 
 Ben-Ledi, and Tinto in Clydesdale. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs Alloa is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Stirling and synod of 
 Perth and Stirling ; patron, the Crown. The minister's 
 stipend is about £300, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £63 per annum ; there is also an assistant minister, 
 who receives the interest of two bequests, one of £800, 
 and the other of £500. The parish church, erected by 
 the heritors and feuars, in 1819, on a site given by the 
 late John Francis, Earl of Mar, is a handsome structure 
 in the later English style, with a square embattled tower 
 surmounted by a lofty spire, together '207 feet in height, 
 and contains 1561 sittings : the steeple of the old church 
 is still remaining, and near it is the mausoleum of the 
 Erskine family. The ancient church of Tullibody, which 
 had been in disuse from the time of the Reformation, 
 was restored about fifteen years since, and again ap- 
 propriated to the purposes of divine worship. There are 
 also places of worship for members of the Free Church, 
 the United Presbyterian Church, Independents, Wes- 
 leyans, and Swedenborgians ; and an episcopal chapel, 
 erected in 1840 from a design by Mr. Angus. The 
 parochial school is well conducted ; the master has a 
 salary of £34. 4. 4., with an allowance of £16 in lieu of 
 house and garden, and the fees average £25 per annum. 
 The Alloa academy was erected in 1824, by subscription, 
 and for some few years a salary was received by the 
 rector, whose present income is derived solely from the 
 40 
 
 fees, of which a portion is paid to an assistant ; the 
 course of studies is extensive, and the fees vary from 5«. 
 to lis. 6d. per quarter. 
 
 In repairing the road, in 1828, about twenty sepul- 
 chral urns of Roman pottery were found, containing 
 burnt bones, placed in an inverted position, on a flag- 
 stone ; also two stone coffins, about three feet in length, 
 in each of which was a pair of bracelets of pure gold, 
 highly polished, but without ornament : one of the two 
 pairs was purchased from the workmen by Mr. Drum- 
 mond Hay, and deposited in the Antiquarian Museum, 
 Edinburgh. Several Roman coins have been discovered 
 in different parts of the parish ; and a few years since, 
 a brass coin was dug up, having the letters S.C. on the 
 one side, and on the other the legend " Augustus Tri- 
 bunus ". About a mile eastward from the town is an 
 ancient upright stone called the Cross, near which, 
 about forty or fifty years since, human bones were 
 found, and a coffin of flagstones, three feet in length, on 
 which were cut two small figures of the cross. 
 
 ALMOND-BANK, a village, in the parish of Meth- 
 VEN, county of Perth ; containing 245 inhabitants. 
 The population is engaged principally in the works situ- 
 ated on the river Almond ; and a portion finds employ- 
 ment in a hand-l^oom weaving establishment at Wood- 
 end, in the vicinity of the village. There is a flourishing 
 unendowed school here, the teacher of which is nomi- 
 nated by the patron of the parish, who, with some other 
 persons, makes a contribution for his support. In 
 digging a trench in the neighbourhood, the skull of an 
 animal was discovered, supposed to be of the ox tribe, 
 which existed wild in Scotland some centuries ago ; it 
 measured, from between the centre of the horns to the 
 nose, two feet four inches, and the horns were sixteen 
 inches round in their thickest part. The curiosity fell 
 to the possession of the late Lord Lynedoch. 
 
 ALNESS, a parish, in the county of Ross and Cro- 
 marty, 9 miles (N. E. by N.) from Dingwall; contain- 
 ing 1269 inhabitants, of whom 202 are in the village. 
 This parish, which takes its name from two Gaehc 
 words signifying a " burn " or small river, and a " point ", 
 is about twenty miles in extreme length, and five in 
 average breadth. It is bounded on the north by Kin- 
 cardine parish ; on the south by the Cromarty Firth, 
 which is here two miles broad ; on the east by the 
 parish of Rosskeen, from which it is separated by the 
 river of Alness ; and on the west by Kiltearn, from 
 which it is separated by the river Auldgrande. The 
 surface, towards the Firth, is for the most part flat, but 
 in the northern part mountainous and wild ; the climate 
 is dry and salubrious, and the general appearance of the 
 parish is pleasing, it being well-wooded, and presenting 
 an agreeable variety of moor and well-cultivated land. 
 In the northern quarter are two fresh-water lochs, 
 abounding in black trout : one of them, called Loch 
 Mary or Gildermary, is distinguished for its great depth, 
 and the lofty and abrupt mountain scenery in its vici- 
 nity; the other, Loch Glass, is situated in a glen of that 
 name. The salmon and salmon-trout taken in the Firth 
 and the rivers are of very superior quality, and would be 
 numerous were it not for the illegal depredations com- 
 mitted during the interdicted season. The chief rock 
 in the parish is the old red sandstone ; immense boulders 
 of granite and gneiss are to be seen in different places, 
 especially in the moorland districts, and some iron-ore
 
 A L\' A 
 
 ALVA 
 
 has also been discovered, about five miles from the 
 Firth, imbedded in a gneiss rock. The only village is 
 Alness, which is nearly equally divided betvi-een this 
 and the neighbouring parish of Rosskeen, by the river 
 of Alness ; in the Rosskeen portion a market is held for 
 the sale of cattle, monthly. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £4'260. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of 
 the presbytery of Dingwall and synod of Ross ; the 
 Marchioness of Stafford is patron, and the minister's 
 stipend is £230. 19. 11., with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £12 per annum. The church, which was 
 built in 1780, is in good condition, and will hold 800 
 people. A Free Church place of worship has been 
 erected. The parochial school affords instruction in 
 every branch of education ; the master has a salary 
 of £34, with £'20 fees. There is also a school supported 
 by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, 
 the teacher of which has a salary of £15, and land 
 valued at £5 per annum, with the school-fees. Another 
 is maintained by the funds raised under the auspices of 
 the General Assembly ; its master receives a salary of 
 £20, and has a house, and a small piece of ground 
 granted by the proprietor, Hugh A. J. Munro, Esq., of 
 Novar. At Multivie, in the parish, two cairns were 
 opened some years since, and found to contain human 
 bones of a remarkably large size. 
 
 ALTIVAIG, a small island, in the parish of Kil- 
 MUIR, county of Inverness. This is one of several 
 islets extending from Aird point, southward, to Ru-na- 
 Braddan, on the north-eastern coast of the Isle of Skye. 
 Altivaig is about two miles in circumference, and very 
 fertile ; the soil is appropriated to the pasturage of 
 sheep. Here is a harbour with good ground for anchor- 
 age, but from being open to the North Sea, it is judged 
 to be unsafe. 
 
 ALVA, a parish, in the county of Stirling, 7 miles 
 (N. E.byE.) from Stirling; containing 2216 inhabitants, 
 of whom 2092 are in the village. The name of this 
 place, the orthography of which has successively passed 
 through the different forms of Alueth, and Alvath or 
 Alveth, to that of Alva, is of Gaelic origin, and is sup- 
 posed to be derived from the term Ailbheach, signifying 
 "rocky": it was probably applied to this spot as de- 
 scriptive of the general character of its hills. The parish 
 is locally situated in Clackmannanshire, and formerly 
 belonged to that county, by which it is bounded on all 
 sides except the north, where it touches Perthshire. 
 After the beginning of the seventeenth century, it was an- 
 nexed to the county of Stirling, though four miles distant 
 from its nearest point, and to that county it has since 
 been united in all respects, till associated for political 
 purposes, under the Reform act, to its ancient shire. It 
 comprises about 4120 acres, of which S67 are arable, 
 3072 natural pasture, including 140 or 150 acres of cul- 
 tivated grass, and 181 are wood. The lands, on the 
 north, consist principally of the Alva hills, which con- 
 stitute the most interesting and beautiful portion of the 
 Ochil range, forming here a rich mineral district, tra- 
 versed in all directions by large flocks of sheep, and 
 ornamented with numerous cascades. At the base of 
 these lofty elevations commences a valley, a part of 
 which, stretching towards the south, covers the rest of 
 the parish, and is replete with richly diversified and 
 highly picturesque scenery, embracing the river Devon, 
 Vol. I.— 41 
 
 which runs along the boundary of the parish in this 
 direction, and, like most of the burns, contains abun- 
 dance of excellent trout. The most lofty of the Ochils, 
 Bencloch or Beucleugh, rises 2420 feet above the Devon, 
 and is situated at the north-eastern extremity of the 
 parish, commanding from its summit, not only fine 
 views of local scenery, but, in the distant prospect, the 
 whole Grampian range, with part of thirteen counties, 
 and their villages and towns. 
 
 The SOIL has several varieties. That in the vicinity 
 of the Devon, which overflows its banks two or three 
 times in the year, is a rich, sandy, alluvial earth of great 
 depth, forming what is termed haugh land. Next to 
 this, northward, is a strong clay, after which follows a 
 tract of moss, from 50 to 100 yards broad, and in 
 some parts seven feet deep ; and the remaining portion 
 of the arable ground, extending to the hills, is a rich 
 hazel mould, mixed occasionally with gravel and small 
 stones. The system of agriculture is in a highly im- 
 proved state ; the crops consist of wheat, oats, barley, 
 peas, beans, clover, potatoes, and turnips, and a small 
 portion of ground is annually planted with woad for 
 dyeing. The hills belong to the trap formation, and 
 contain heavy spar, onyx, and, among many other peb- 
 bles, that called the Ochil eye, which is said to be pecu- 
 liar to this range. The chief celebrity of the parish, 
 however, as a mineralogical district, has arisen from its 
 treasure of silver ore, which was discovered and worked 
 between the years I7IO and 1715 by Sir John Erskine, 
 who is said to have derived from it £4000 per week, 
 and an aggregate of £40,000 or £50,000, the material 
 being so pure as to afford 12 oz. of silver from 14 oz. of 
 ore. Attempts to obtain the precious metal were after- 
 wards renewed, in 1759, by a liranch of the same family, 
 who had purchased the barony. Veins were then dis- 
 covered of lead, copper, iron, and cobalt ; but the silver 
 was found in such small portions, that the pursuit was 
 abandoned, whilst the cobalt, being so plentiful, and of 
 such good quality, was worked extensively, and has 
 since proved a source of considerable wealth to the dif- 
 ferent proprietors. 
 
 The woods and plantations are extensive and beau- 
 tiful ; they form a prominent feature in the scenery, and 
 invest this place with a peculiar sylvan appearance, 
 especially when contrasted with the surrounding coun- 
 try. Woodhill, elevated 1620 feet above the lowest 
 ground, is shrouded with almost every description of 
 rich foliage, for more than two-thirds of the ascent ; the 
 plantations around the base comprising oak, elm, ash, 
 beech, and larch, with various species of pine, planted 
 by Sir John Erskine. The plantations on the east and 
 west sides of the hill were planted by Lord Alva, and 
 subsequent proprietors of the mansion of Alva, which 
 stands on a projecting part of the eminence, and com- 
 mands very extensive prospects. The old mansion of 
 the Stirlings of Calder in Clydesdale, who possessed 
 originally these estates, and afterwards of the Erskines, 
 was enlarged and modernised in 1820 ; it is surrounded 
 by elegantly laid-out grounds, interspersed with stately 
 ash-trees and several venerable oaks, and the road to 
 the village church, about a mile distant, is through an 
 avenue of richly verdant foliage. 
 
 The village, which is of considerable extent, and of 
 very irregular form, having been built at different pe- 
 riods, and increased by cottages and houses erected on 
 
 G
 
 ALVA 
 
 ALVA 
 
 ground leased under Sir John Erskine and Lord Alva, 
 has been doubled in size within the last fifty or sixty 
 years. It has been known for its manufacture of serges 
 ever since the latter part of the seventeenth century. A 
 woollen-mill was first established in ISOl : the number 
 of mills has now increased to eight, besides many 
 smaller works, and the present articles wrought are, 
 plaidings, blanketings, and coarse stuffs ; those of che- 
 quered cassimeres, carpets, shawls, and trowser-cloths 
 having more recently been added. The quantity of 
 wool annually consumed is about 480,000 pounds, chiefly 
 from the Cheviot sheep ; and in the manufacture of 
 these articles, which are sold at Stirling, Perth, and 
 Edinburgh, but chiefly at Glasgow, about 560 persons 
 are employed. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £4853. 
 
 Alva is in the presbytery of Stirling, synod of Perth 
 and Stirling, and in the patronage of James Johnstone, 
 Esq. ; the minister's stipend is £15'. 5. 4., with a 
 manse, and a glebe, valued at £^7 per annum. The 
 church was formerly mensal, and belonged to the bishop- 
 ric of Dunkeld ; the present edifice was built in 1632, by 
 Alexander Bruce, then proprietor of Alva, and was en- 
 tirely rebuilt in 1S15, at the expense of James Raymond 
 Johnstone, Esq., with seats for 586 persons. The cups 
 for the communion service were made from the silver 
 found in the parish, and presented by Lord Alva, in 
 1767. The parochial school is situated in the village ; 
 the master has a salary of £29. IS. 10., and £28 fees. 
 The only antiquities are several large stones supposed 
 to be Druidical. The hawk used formerly in sporting, 
 of the species /a/co peregrinus, is a native of this parish, 
 and has nestled, from time immemorial, in a lofty per- 
 pendicular rock called Craigleith : from this place, Mary, 
 Queen of Scots, procured falcons, after her arrival from 
 France ; and a short time since, a pair of these birds 
 were sent by the proprietor of Alva to the Duke of 
 St. Alban's, king's falconer in England. 
 
 AL"VAH, a parish, in the county of Banff, 3 miles 
 (W. S. W.) from Banff; containing 1407 inhabitants. 
 The origin of the name of this place, which in different 
 records is variously spelled, is altogether involved in 
 obscurity ; but authentic sources of information still 
 remain, throwing light on the apportionment of its 
 lands, in early times, to several distinguished families. 
 In 1314, a charter was granted by Marjory, relict of 
 John, Earl of Atholl and Lord Strath-Alveth, conveying 
 the patronage of the kirk, with considerable property 
 here, to the abbot of Cupar. This parish, from which 
 that of Forglen was disjoined prior to the middle of the 
 seventeenth century, is situated near the north-eastern 
 extremity of the county, separated from the Moray 
 Firth by only a small intervening portion of the parish 
 of Banff, and bounded on the east by the shire of Aber- 
 deen, where the line of division is very nearly formed 
 by the course of the river Doveron. It comprises 1 1,133 
 acres, of which 6955 are cultivated, 3428 waste and 
 pasture, and 750 wood. The parish exhibits through- 
 out an uneven and rugged surface, occasionally marked 
 by lofty elevations, among which the Hills of Alvah and 
 Maunderlea are the most conspicuous, the former rising 
 578, and the latter 733, feet above the sea. The scenery 
 in the western and south-western portions is wild and 
 dreary, taking its character chiefly from the numerous 
 eminences connected with the Hill of Maunderlea, which 
 42 
 
 stretches in a northern direction from the parish of 
 Marnoch. In the other parts it possesses great pic- 
 turesque beauty, being ornamented by the silvery mean- 
 derings of the Doveron, and by the lofty and majestic 
 Hill of Alvah, which, rising from the midst of rich and 
 well cultivated lands surrounding its base, displays a 
 profusion of sj^lvan beauty on its sloping sides, and 
 from its tabular summit commands diversified views in 
 several directions. The Doveron, being in one place 
 impeded by a rocky barrier stretching from east to west, 
 takes a curve for about a mile, when, meeting with an 
 outlet through a chasm, whose precipitous sides are 
 united by a massive arch erected in 1772 by the late 
 Earl of Fife, it resumes its former direction, and passes 
 through some very bold and romantic scenery. The 
 sides of the rocky chasm, after expanding themselves, 
 form a lofty acclivity on each side of the intermediate 
 basin, and, rising like the walls of a majestic amphi- 
 theatre about 100 feet above the stream, exhibit a gro- 
 tesque and imposing assemblage of shrubs, trees, and 
 mosses. 
 
 The SOIL in the eastern part of the parish, through 
 which the river takes its course, consists of an alluvial 
 loam of considerable depth, incumbent upon blue clay 
 containing admixtures of clay-slate. In the remaining 
 portion of the lower grounds, the earth rests upon a 
 coarse diluvial clay, mixed in some places with ferru- 
 ginous sand, shingles, and occasionally boulders. On 
 the higher grounds, the soil has a subsoil frequently of a 
 very sandy nature, much interspersed with shingles, and 
 pieces of greywacke slate and other rocks. The average 
 value of the produce is £19,800 per annum, of which 
 upwards of £10,000 are derived from oats, and the 
 remainder from turnips, potatoes, hay, and pasture, and 
 a small quantity of bear and barley. The cattle are of 
 the Aberdeenshire breed, or approximating very closely 
 to it ; but within the last few years, the Teeswater, or 
 short-horned, have been introduced upon several of the 
 best farms, where they thrive well, and are often used 
 for a cross with the native cow. Within the present 
 century, considerably more than 2000 acres of waste 
 have been improved, a large portion of which was 
 covered with furze and heath ; and fenny or boggy 
 grounds have also been reclaimed to a great extent, by 
 draining. Lime is employed as a stimulant for the 
 land, and bone-dust manure has been recently applied 
 in soils adapted to it, with great advantage. The rocks 
 consist principally of clay-slate and greywacke. Of 
 these the latter is succumbent, and interlined with thin 
 veins of quartz : the line of bearing, with a trifling 
 variation, is from north-east to south-west, dipping to 
 the north-west. The angle of elevation of the clay-slate 
 varies, increasing from the low grounds, where the rock 
 is almost horizontal, till it arrives at nearly a perpendi- 
 cular towards the top of the Hill of Alvah. The planta- 
 tions, including about 300 acres formed in the course of 
 the present century, for the most part consist of Scotch 
 fir and larch, among which are trees of beech, ash, oak, 
 elm, plane, &c. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £4870. 
 
 The chief mansion is the House of Montblairy, built 
 in 1791, and since repaired and considerably enlarged : 
 it is situated on the west side of the Doveron, on a 
 sloping bank, in the midst of thriving and beautiful 
 plantations ; and contains a fine gallery of portraits of
 
 A LV E 
 
 AL VI 
 
 illustrious persons. Dunlugas, about half a mile distant, 
 on the opposite bank of the river, was erected in 1793, 
 and is a spacious structure, ornamented with a lawn in 
 front, stretching to the margin of the river, and embel- 
 lished with several lofty trees ; the background, with its 
 thriving plantations of sable firs, furnishing a striking 
 contrast to the surrounding scenery. In the parish of 
 Alvah are six meal-mills, a malt-mill, a lint-mill, and 
 thirty-one threshing-mills, the last of which have all been 
 erected during the last thirty or forty years. A distillery, 
 built about twenty years since, on the estate of Mont- 
 blairy, at an expense of £4000, was in full operation, and 
 capable of producing 40,000 gallons of spirits annually ; 
 but the speculation having become unprofitable, it was 
 given up a few years ago. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 in the presbytery of TurriBF, synod of Aberdeen, and in 
 the patronage of Sir Robert Abercromby, Bart. ; the 
 stipend of the minister is about £180, and there is a 
 manse, built in 1*64, and repaired in 1S15, with a glebe 
 containing between six and seven acres, valued at about 
 £■25 per annum. The church is a plain edifice, erected 
 in 1792. There is a parochial school, the master of 
 which gives instruction in Latin, occasionally in Greek 
 and French, and in all the ordinary branches of educa- 
 tion i he has a salary of £30, in addition to the fees, 
 with a house, and a portion of the Dick bequest. 
 
 The antiquities are few and unimportant, consisting 
 chiefly of several cairns and Druidical circles, not of 
 sufficient consideration to merit notice. The ruins of 
 the ancient castle, which stood near Montblairy, and is 
 supposed to have been built by one of the Stewarts, 
 Earls of Buchan, are no longer visible ; and those of the 
 old chapel near the same spot, have been removed of late 
 years. On the estate of Sandlaw, and in several other 
 places, large trees have been found, at a great depth 
 below the surface; and memorials of the ancient culti- 
 vation of the soil may be traced over about 1000 acres of 
 land, at present the poorest in the district. Alvah is 
 celebrated for its fine springs, the principal of which, 
 called Comes-well, and mentioned by that name in a 
 charter more than 500 years ago, discharges twenty-seven 
 gallons per minute of water almost as clear as that pro- 
 duced by distillaflon. There are also several chalybeates, 
 the most famed of which are, the Red Gill well at Brown- 
 side Hill, and a spring on the hill-head of Montblairy. 
 Dr. George Chapman, author of a treatise on education, 
 was born here in 1723 ; and Major-Gen. Andrew Hay, 
 who fell at Bayonne, in the fifty- second year of his age, 
 on the 14th of April, 1814, and to whose memory a mo- 
 nument was erected in St. Paul's Cathedral at the public 
 expense, was at one time resident proprietor of the estate 
 of Montblairy, in the parish. 
 
 ALVES, a parish, in the county of Elgin, 5 miles 
 (W.) from Elgin, on the road to Inverness ; containing, 
 with the small hamlets of Coltfield and Crook, 913 inha- 
 bitants. This parish, which is about five miles long, 
 and of nearly the same breadth, contains about 12,000 
 acres. It is bounded on the north by the parish of 
 Duffus, the Moray Firth, and part of Kinloss ; by the 
 hill of Pluscarden on the south ; by the parish of New 
 Spynie on the east ; and by Kinloss and Rafford on the 
 west. The surface is agreeably diversified, consisting of 
 pasture and arable land, with a considerable quantity of 
 land covered with plantation, and scarcely any waste. 
 With the exception of the Knock of Alves, a small 
 43 
 
 conical hill in the east end of the parish, the hill of Plus- 
 carden is the only part that deserves the name of hill ; 
 the rest of the parish consists of a gently undulating 
 surface, every portion of which may be brought under til- 
 lage. The Knock of Alves is entirely covered with wood : 
 on its summit is a tower called York Tower, erected some 
 years ago by the proprietor in honour of the late Duke 
 of York, and commanding an extensive view of the sur- 
 rounding country. What was formerly a waste common 
 of several thousand acres was divided a short time since 
 among the three adjoining proprietors, and is now a 
 thriving plantation : besides containing this young plan- 
 tation, about 100 acres in the parish are covered with 
 Scotch fir. 
 
 In general the soil is a deep rich loam, upon a clay 
 bottom, though in some places it is of a lighter quality. 
 The pasture and arable land is portioned into twenty-five 
 large farms, which are cultivated in the best manner ; all 
 kinds of produce are raised, and a great part of the grain 
 is shipped at Burgh-Head, or Findhorn, and sold in the 
 London market. The cattle are usually of a mixed 
 breed between the Aberdeenshire and the Highland, with 
 a few of the polled from Buchan. Great improvements 
 have been carried on for some years past in draining, 
 inclosing, the recovery of mosses, and the erection of 
 good farm-houses and offices : in this parish the stone 
 inclosures are very extensive, probably more so than in 
 any other parish in the north of Scotland. The rocks 
 consist of freestone, of which quarries are regularly 
 worked ; there is a quarry supplying mill-stones, and in 
 several places a considerable depth of peat-moss occurs. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £5708. 
 There are two mansion-houses ; Milton-Brodie, at the 
 west end of the parish, an ancient edifice, to which a 
 handsome front has been recently added, greatly im- 
 proving its appearance ; and the house of Newton, at 
 the east end, a plain building, with a pleasing lawn be- 
 fore it. The population are agricultural, and their houses 
 are for the most part in groups. The chief fuel formerly 
 in use was peat, but the cutting of it has been prohibited, 
 and at present the fuel used is principally English coal, 
 cargoes of which are imported from Sunderland, and 
 landed at Burgh-Head and Findhorn. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes Alves is within the bounds 
 of the presbytery of Elgin and synod of Moray. The Earl 
 of Moray is patron ; and the minister's stipend is about 
 £208, exclusively of an allowance of £8 for a grass-glebe : 
 there are also a good manse, lately built, and having con- 
 venient offices and garden ; and a glebe of four acres of 
 land, worth £9 a year. Alves church, built in 1769, is a 
 long narrow edifice containing sittings for 590 persons. 
 There is a place of worship in connexion with the Free 
 Church. The parochial school affords instruction in 
 Latin, Greek, aud the mathematics, in addition to the 
 ordinary branches of education, and the master has a 
 salary of £34. 4., with fees, a house and garden, and, if 
 found qualified, a share of the Dick bequest. Another 
 school is maintained by subscription, and the teacher of 
 a female school in the Crook receives a small salary from 
 the heritors. A parochial library is supported, which 
 contains about 200 volumes. 
 
 ALVIE, a parish, in the district of Badenoch, 
 county of Inverness, 9 miles (N. E.) from Kingussie ; 
 containing, with part of the former quoad sacra parish of 
 Insh, 972 inhabitants, of whom seventy-three are in the 
 
 G 2
 
 A L V 1 
 
 AL YT 
 
 village of Lynchat. Alvie is supposed to have derived 
 its name, signifying the " isle of swans", from the situ- 
 ation of its ancient church on a peninsula in the north- 
 west extremity of the parish, formed by Loch Alvie, 
 which from time immemorial has been frequented by 
 numbers of swans. The parish extends for nearly twenty 
 miles in length, from north to south, including the out- 
 line of the hills which terminate in the Grampian range j 
 and varies from two to six miles in breadth, from east 
 to west. It is calculated to comprise about eighty-four 
 square miles, or .53,600 acres, of which 257-1 are arable, 
 1S4'2 meadow and pasture, and the remainder, exclu- 
 sively of some large tracts of wood and plantations, moor- 
 land and svaste. The surface is generally high : that 
 portion of the strath of Badenoch which is within the 
 parish has an elevation of nearly 650 feet ; while of the 
 numerous hills and mountains, the Grampians, forming 
 the southern boundary of the parish, rise to the height 
 of 4500 feet above the sea, and those on the north-west 
 boundary, though of inferior elevation, attain a very con- 
 siderable height. The river Spey, which rises in the 
 braes of Badenoch, near Lochaber, flows through the 
 parish in a direction nearly from west to east ; and the 
 small river Feshie falls into the Spey near the church : 
 salmon are sometimes taken in the Spey. Loch Alvie is 
 about a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth ; the 
 average depth is about eleven fathoms : the surrounding 
 scenery is pleasingly picturesque. 
 
 The SOIL is generally light and gravelly, with the 
 exception of the meadow-lands on the banks of the Spey, 
 which are luxuriantly rich ; the chief crops are oats, 
 barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips, with the various 
 grasses. The system of husbandry has been gradually 
 improving, and on some of the larger farms is in a very 
 advanced state ; on the smaller farms it has made com- 
 paratively little progress. There are very few inclosures, 
 and the farm-buildings are of inferior order. Little 
 attention is paid to the rearing of live stock ; the sheep 
 are commonly of the black-faced, and the cattle of the 
 Highland black breed. The hills and mountains are 
 composed chiefly of gneiss, intersected with veins of 
 granite and red porphyry : the granite occurs in two 
 varieties ; the white, which is preferred for building, 
 and more easily dressed, and the red, which is harder 
 and more durable. Limestone is quarried on the lands 
 of Dunachton ; and veins of lead are found in the gneiss 
 at Tyncaim, and the burn of Raitts, on the lands of 
 Belleville. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £4'260. 
 
 The principal seats are Belleville and Kinrara. The 
 former is a spacious and elegant mansion, built after a 
 design of the architect Adams, by James IMacpherson, 
 translator of Ossian's poems : it is beautifully situated in 
 a picturesque demesne, embellished with stately timber 
 and thriving plantations ; and within a cluster of larches 
 is an obelisk of marble, erected to the memory of Mr. 
 Macpherson, on which is his bust, finely sculptured. 
 Kinrara, a handsome mansion in the cottage style, built 
 by a Duchess of Gordon, and in which she resided dur- 
 ing the summer months till her decease in IS 12, occupies 
 a highly romantic and sequestered spot, about two miles 
 from the church of Alvie. In the grounds is a monu- 
 ment of granite, erected by her husband the fourth duke 
 to the memory of the deceased, whose remains were 
 brought from London, and interred, at her own request, 
 44 
 
 in a spot which she had selected. Oa Tor Alvie, to the 
 north-west of the cottage, is a monument erected by the 
 fifth and last duke, to the officers of the 4'2nd and 
 92nd regiments who fell in the battle of Waterloo. At 
 Lynviulg, about half a mile from the church, is a branch 
 post-office ; and facility of communication is afforded by 
 the turnpike-road from Edinburgh to Inverness, which 
 passes through the whole length of the parish. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of 
 the presbytery of Abernethy and synod of Moray : the 
 minister's stipend is £158. 4. 6., with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £5 per annum ; patron, the Duke of 
 Richmond. The church, situated on the shore of Loch 
 Alvie, is a plain structure, built in 1798, and repaired in 
 1832, and contains 500 sittings. The parochial school 
 is well conducted ; the master has a salary of £28. 18. 9., 
 with a house, an allowance of £2. 2. in lieu of garden, 
 and fees averaging about £20 per annum. Another 
 school, the master of which has a salary of £20, with 
 £10 fees, is supported by the General Assembly. At 
 Delfour, about a mile west of the church, are the re- 
 mains of a Druidical temple, consisting of two concentric 
 circles of upright stones, of which the inner circle is 
 twenty-five feet, and the outer, formed of larger stones, 
 is fifty-five feet in diameter ; near this work is an obelisk 
 eight feet six inches in height, and both are situated in 
 the middle of a field which is under arable cultivation. 
 At Raitts are the remains of an artificial cavern, anciently 
 the haunt of banditti. 
 
 ALYTH, a parish, partly in the county of Forfar, 
 but chiefly in that of Perth, 17 miles (N. W.) from 
 Dundee ; containing 2910 inhabitants, of whom 190 are 
 in the county of Forfar, and 1S46 in the village or town, 
 which is a burgh of barony. This place appears to have 
 derived its name, signifying in the Gaelic language an 
 " ascent", from the gradually sloping eminence on which 
 its ancient church, and the older portion of the village, 
 are built. The most ancient document where its name 
 occurs is a charter of Alexander II., in 1232, granting 
 the lands of BarafF, in the parish, to Nessus de Ramsay, 
 ancestor of Sir James Ramsay, Bart., the present propri- 
 etor of that estate ; the remainder of the lands belonged 
 to the Lyndesays, Earls of Crawford, ft)r many genera- 
 tions, till the year 1630, when they were purchased by 
 the Ogilvy family. During the wars of the Covenanters, 
 the army of the INIarquess of Montrose was frequently 
 stationed in the immediate neighbourhood ; and during 
 the siege of Dundee by General Monk, a meeting of the 
 principal inhabitants, held in the village, to deliberate on 
 the best means of defence, was surprised by a detach- 
 ment of the English, who took many of the members 
 prisoners. 
 
 The parish is bounded on the south-east by the river 
 Isla, and is about fifteen miles in length, and from one 
 mile to six miles in breadth, comprising 34,160 acres, of 
 which about 8100 are arable, 1070 woodland and planta- 
 tions, and the remainder meadow and pasture land. Its 
 surface is diversified with ranges of hills, of which those 
 of Alyth, Loyall, and Barry divide it into two unequal 
 districts : the southern is in the valley of Strathmore, 
 and the northern includes the forest of Alyth, and the 
 Blacklunans, which last are in the county of Forfar. 
 The height of the lands varies from 130 to nearly I7OO 
 feet, ascending from the Isla to the summit of Mount 
 Blair; the hill of Kingseat has an elevation of 1178
 
 A L YT 
 
 A N A B 
 
 feet, and the hills of Alyth, Loyall, and Barry rise about 
 700 feet above the sea. The principal rivers are, the 
 IsJa ; the Ericht, a tributary of the Isla; and the burn 
 of Alyth, which rises in the forest of that name, and falls 
 into the Isla at Inverquiech, about two miles east of the 
 village. Salmon occasionally ascend the Isla, and trout 
 are found in most of the streams, and in some, pike. 
 
 The SOIL is greatly diversified. On the level lands 
 Dear the river, it is a deep rich black loam ; in the 
 Blacklunans district, a lighter, but fertile, loam, much 
 encumbered with stones and rock ; on the sides of the 
 hills, a fine sharp gravelly soil, well adapted for oats, 
 turnips, and potatoes ; and in many parts, peat moss, 
 and moor, of which a considerable portion might be 
 brought into cultivation. The lands have been drained 
 and inclosed, and much waste has been reclaimed ; the 
 farm-buildings, and the houses of the cotters, are sub- 
 stantial, and the lands near the Isla, which were exposed 
 to frequent inundation, have been protected by embank- 
 ments. The hills afford good pasture for sheep, of 
 which from 2000 to 3000 are reared in the parish, all 
 of the black-faced breed ; the cattle, on the uplands, are 
 of the native Angus breed, and on the lower farms a 
 cross between the Angus and the Teeswater. In general 
 the rocks are trap and conglomerate ; and the principal 
 substrata are, mica, and clay-slate, sandstone of the old 
 red formation, with some small beds of a light-grey 
 colour, and a yellowish compact limestone, well adapted 
 for building. The natural wood, of which but little 
 remains, is birch, hazel, and alder ; and the plantations, 
 the greater part of which are of recent date, are larch, 
 Scotch, and spruce firs, interspersed with various kinds 
 of hard-wood ; but the larches are not in a thriving 
 state. The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £10,396. Bamff House is a handsome mansion of great 
 antiquity, with many modern additions and improve- 
 ments, pleasantly situated about three miles from the vil- 
 lage, in grounds commanding some fine views. Balhary, 
 another seat, is a modern, substantial, and spacious 
 mansion, built on a rising ground on the bank of the 
 Isla ; and Jordanstone is also a handsome residence. 
 
 The VILLAGE stands on the burn of Alyth, and con- 
 sists of several streets of good houses, of which those in 
 the older part of it are of great antiquity : the inha- 
 bitants are well supplied with water. There are three 
 bridges of stone over the burn, the handsomest of which 
 was lately built by Sir James Ramsay to improve the 
 approach to Bamff House : one of the bridges is of con- 
 siderable antiquity, bearing the arms of Lord Gray, who 
 held property in the parish three centuries ago. Most 
 of the population are employed in weaving coarse linen 
 for the manufacturers of Dundee, producing annually 
 more than 10,000 webs, of 150 yards each ; there is a 
 fulling-mill in the village, and also at Inverquiech. 
 Alyth was erected into a burgh of barony in the reign 
 of James HI.-, a baronial court is held on the first 
 Tuesday in every month, under a baron bailie appointed 
 by the Earl of Airlie, who is superior of the burgh ; and 
 a system of police has also been established. Fairs for 
 sheep and cattle are held on the Tuesday after the 
 second Thursday in March ; the second Tuesday, and 
 the 25th, of June ; the last Tuesday in July ; the Tues- 
 day before the 10th of October ; the first Tuesday and 
 Wednesday, and the Tuesday after the Uth, of Novem- 
 ber ; and the second Tuesday in December ; all O. S. 
 
 A post-office under that of Meigle, and a branch of the 
 Western Bank, have been established here ; and facility 
 of communication is maintained by good roads, kept in 
 repair by statute labour. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Meigle and synod of Angus 
 and Mearus : the minister's stipend averages about 
 £235, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £14 per 
 annum; patron, the Crown. The church, situated in 
 the village, is a handsome and spacious structure in the 
 Norman style, built in 1839, from a design by Mr. 
 Hamilton of Edinburgh, and contains 1290 sittings. 
 There are places of worship for members of the Free 
 Church and the United Presbyterian Church, and a small 
 Episcopal chapel. The parochial school was erected in 
 1835; the master has a salary of £34. 4.4., with a 
 house, and an allowance in lieu of a garden, and the 
 fees average £20 per annum. Five boys and five girls 
 are instructed and clothed from a rent-charge of £30 
 on the Ballindoch estate. On Barry Hill are some re- 
 mains of a Pictish encampment, and of a narrow bridge 
 over the fosse by which it was surrounded ; and to the 
 south of the hill, on the low grounds, are several upright 
 stones supposed to commemorate some warlike exploit. 
 Stone coffins containing human bones have been dug 
 up near these places. At the influx of the burn of Alyth 
 into the river Isla, are the ruins of the ancient castle of 
 Inverquiech ; and at Corb, on the south-west of the 
 forest of Alyth, are the remains of a castle, probably a 
 hunting-seat of the Earls of Crawford. The parish gives 
 the title of Baron Alyth to the Earl of Airlie. 
 
 AMISFIELD, a village, in the parish of Tinwald, 
 county of Dumfries, 5 miles (N. E.) from. Dumfries ; 
 containing 140 inhabitants. This place, anciently Ems- 
 field, was erected into a burgh of barony by Charles I., 
 with a weekly market and fairs ; at present, it consists 
 merely of a few old thatched houses, which the pro- 
 prietors are allowing to go to decay. Amisfield Castle, 
 long the seat of the ancient family of Charteris, stands 
 west of the high road from Dumfries to Edinburgh, and 
 is a quadrangular building, having a high tower of pic- 
 turesque appearance on the south-west, and a more 
 modern erection, now the dwelling-house, on the east. 
 Near the village are distinct vestiges of a Roman fort. 
 — See Tinwald. 
 
 AMULRIE, a village and district, in the parish of 
 Dull, county of Perth, U miles (N. by E.) from Crieff; 
 containing 406 inhabitants. It is situated on the road 
 between Crieff and Aberfeldy, and is watered by the 
 small river Bran, which flows hence in a north-eastern 
 direction, and falls into the Tay at Inver, opposite to 
 Dunkeld. Here is a sub post-office ; and an excellent 
 inn, much frequented by visiters to the neighbouring 
 lake of Freuchie, is distant about a mile and a quarter 
 westward of the village. Fairs for cattle and sheep are 
 held on the first Tuesday and Wednesday in May, and 
 the Friday before the first Wednesday in November. 
 There is a chapel in connexion with the Established 
 Church, under the patronage of the Committee of the 
 General Assembly : the minister has a stipend, paid 
 from the royal bounty, of £65, including £5 for com- 
 munion elements ; with a house and garden, a few acres 
 of land, and fuel. 
 
 ANABICH, an island, in the parish of Harris, 
 county of Inverness ; containing 41 inhabitants.
 
 A NC R 
 
 AND E 
 
 ANCRUM, a parish, in the district of Jedburgh, 
 county of Roxburgh, 4 railes (N. W. by N.) from Jed- 
 burgh : containing 1407 inhabitants, of whom 499 are 
 in the village. The name of this place, anciently Jlite- 
 crumb, is derived from the situation of its village on a 
 bend of the river Alne, now the Ale. There were for- 
 merly two villages distinguished by the appellations of 
 Over and Nether Ancrum, of the former of which no- 
 thing now remains. The principal event of historical im- 
 portance is the battle of Ancrum Moor, which originated 
 in an attempt made in 1545, by Sir Ralph Evers and 
 Sir Bryan Layton, to possess themselves of the lands of 
 the Merse and Teviotdale, which had been conferred 
 upon them by a grant of Henry VIII., King of England. 
 The Earl of Angus, who had considerable property in 
 that district, determined to resist the attempt, and a 
 battle between his forces and those of the English took 
 place on a moor about a mile and a half north of the 
 village, in which the latter were defeated with great loss. 
 In this conflict, both the villages of Ancrum were burnt 
 to the ground ; the village of Nether Ancrum was soon 
 afterwards rebuilt, but of the other nothing remains but 
 the ruins of one or two dilapidated houses. 
 
 The PARISH comprises about S400 acres, of which 
 one-half is arable, S'20 acres in woods and plantations, 
 and the remainder meadow and pasture. Its surface is 
 pleasingly undulated, rising in some parts into consi- 
 derable eminences, and presenting a continued variety 
 of level plains and sloping heights. The Teviot forms 
 the southern boundary of the parish, and the river Ale 
 traverses it from east to west ; the banks of the latter 
 are highly picturesque in several parts of its course, 
 presenting in some points precipitous masses of bare 
 rugged rock, and in others overhung by rocks richly 
 wooded. Both the rivers abound with excellent trout, 
 and are much frequented by anglers. The soil is greatly 
 varied : on the banks of the Teviot it is luxuriantly rich, 
 and of great depth ; in other parts of less fertility, and 
 in some almost sterile. The chief crops are oats, wheat, 
 barley, potatoes, turnips, peas, and beans. The system 
 of agriculture is in an improved state ; draining has 
 been carried on to a considerable extent, and much of 
 the inferior land has been rendered productive. Much 
 attention is paid to the rearing of live stock, for which 
 the pastures are well adapted ; the sheep are mostly of 
 the Leicestershire breed, and a cross between that and 
 the Cheviot, and the cattle are all of the short-horned 
 kind. The woods contain many stately trees, and the 
 plantations are e.xtensive and well managed. The prin- 
 cipal substrata are red and white freestone, which are 
 both of good quality, and extensively wrought for the 
 supply of the surrounding district. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £8893. Ancrum 
 House, the seat of Sir William Scott, Bart., is a spacious 
 and venerable mansion, in an extensive and richly- 
 wooded park stocked with deer. Chesters is a hand- 
 some modern mansion, romantically situated at the 
 mouth of a deep and thickly-wooded dell, on the bank of 
 the Teviot ; and Kirklands, in the later style of English 
 architecture, is beautifully situated on a wooded height 
 on the bank of the Ale, forming a strikingly picturesque 
 object in the landscape. The village is on the south 
 bank of the Teviot. Facility of communication is main- 
 tained with Jedburgh and other market-towns in the 
 vicinity, by good roads ; the turnpike-road from Edin- 
 46 
 
 burgh to Newcastle passes along the eastern boundary 
 of the parish for several miles, and the Hawick railway 
 intersects the western part of the parish. 
 
 Ecclesiastically, Ancrum is in the presbytery of Jed- 
 burgh and synod of Merse and Teviotdale : the stipend 
 of the incumbent is about £224, with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £30 per annum ; patron. Sir William 
 Scott. The church, which anciently belonged to the 
 see of Glasgow, having been annexed to it on the 
 dissolution of the abbey of Lindisfarn, was rebuilt in 
 1762, and is a neat and substantial edifice, adapted for 
 about 520 persons. The parochial school is well 
 attended ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with 
 £2S. 15. fees, and a good house and garden. Till very 
 lately, there were considerable remains of what were 
 called the Maltan W'alls, which inclosed an area of about 
 an acre and a half. The spot is supposed to have been 
 the site of a commandery of the Knights of Malta, or St. 
 John of Jerusalem, said to have been established here 
 in the reign of David I. ; and in the adjacent field, 
 numerous human bones, and frequently entire skeletons, 
 have been discovered by the plough. W^ithin the area 
 of the walls were various vaults and subterraneous 
 passages, apparently the foundations of the ancient 
 building ; but even those portions of the outer wall 
 which alone were left standing have disappeared, and 
 little but the site is now left. On the hill behind 
 Ancrum House are the remains of a circular fort, with a 
 triple intrenchment. In the parish are numerous caves, 
 formed as places of retreat in times of danger, one of 
 which, on the glebe, was the favourite resort of the poet 
 Thomson, and still bears his name. A monument has 
 been raised over the tomb of Lilliard, a Scotch female 
 who fell in the battle of Ancrum Moor, covered with 
 wounds, while fighting with desperate valour, and who 
 was buried on the spot where she fell. The place confers 
 the title of Earl on the Marquess of Lothian. 
 
 ANDERSTON, a burgh, and for a time a quoad 
 sacra parish, consisting of part of Barony parish, in the 
 suburbs of the city of Glasgow, county of Lanark, 
 1 mile (W.) from Glasgow ; containing 3*59 inhabit- 
 ants. This place derives its name from its founder, 
 Mr. John Anderston, of Stobcross, who in 1725 formed 
 the plan of a village, and divided the lands of one of his 
 most unproductive farms into building lots, thus laying 
 the foundation of a very considerable suburb to the 
 city. It is on the north side of the river Clyde, and 
 though of irregular form, and less modern in appear- 
 ance than others of the suburban districts, it contains 
 manj' well-built and handsome houses ; the lands to 
 the north are chiefly garden-ground, and on the banks 
 of the river are several pleasing villas, inhabited by 
 some of the most opulent merchants of Glasgow. A 
 considerable part of the population are employed in the 
 cotton manufacture, in iron-foundries, and the production 
 of machinery ; many are mariners belonging to the port, 
 and there are shops of various kinds for the supply of 
 the inhabitants. 
 
 Anderston was erected into a burgh of barony, by 
 royal charter, in 1824; the district includes parts of 
 the lands of Stobcross, Gushet, Parsonscroft, and Ran- 
 kenshaugh, and is wholly within the parliamentary 
 boundary of the city of Glasgow. The government is 
 vested in a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and 
 eleven councillors, annually elected by the burgesses ;
 
 A N D R 
 
 A ND R 
 
 the bailies and treasurers from the councillors, and the 
 provost from the burgesses generally. The magistrates 
 exercise civil jurisdiction in pleas not exceeding forty 
 shillings in amount, and criminal jurisdiction in all 
 cases within the Police act : courts for the former are 
 held weekly, or every alternate week, and for the latter 
 four times in the week ; in both of which, the town- 
 clerk acts as assessor. The burgesses pay a fee of £2. 2. 
 on admission. The corporation have power to hold a 
 weekly market and two annual fairs : the fairs were 
 formerly held, but they have been discontinued. An- 
 derston quoad sacra parish was formed in 1834, and, 
 like every similar division, was subsequently abolished : 
 the minister's stipend is £300, derived from the seat- 
 rents, of which £S0 are secured by bond. The church 
 was originally built as a chapel of ease, in 1799, at a 
 cost of £2500, raised by voluntary subscription, and has 
 been since repaired ; it is a neat structure, and con- 
 tains 1246 sittings. A school for this parish and the 
 former quoad sacra parish of St. Mark, was erected 
 at an expense of £1700, of which £850 were subscribed 
 by the two parishes, and the remainder granted by the 
 treasury ; it is a spacious building, containing three 
 schools, attended by 600 children paying very moderate 
 fees. There is also a Free church. St. John's episcopal 
 church, at Anderston, was commenced in September, 
 1849. 
 
 ANDRE-W'S, ST., a city, 
 the seat of a university, and 
 anciently the metropolitan 
 see of Scotland, in the district 
 of St. Andrew's, county of 
 Fife, 42 miles (N. N. E.) 
 from Edinburgh ; contain- 
 ing, with the villages of 
 Boarhills, Grange, Kincaple, 
 and Strathkinness, 6017 in- 
 habitants, of whom 3959 are 
 in the city. This place, 
 which is of remote antiquity, 
 formed part of the territories of the Pictish kings, of 
 whom Hergustus, whose capital was at Abernethy, had a 
 palace or hunting-seat near the site of the present town, 
 at that time a forest frequented by wild boars, and 
 thence, as well as from its situation on a promontory 
 overlooking the bay, called Mucross, a name still re- 
 tained in that of the present village of Boarhills. The 
 origin of the town is ascribed by tradition to St. Regu- 
 lus, abbot of the monastery of Patrae, in the Grecian 
 province of Achaia, who about the year 370, attended 
 by a company of his brethren, sailed from Patrae, bear- 
 ing with him a portion of the relics of the Apostle St. 
 Andrew, which had been deposited there ; and was 
 driven by a storm into the bay of this place, where with 
 dithculty, after the loss of their ship, the crew escaped 
 to land, with the sacred relics they had preserved. Her- 
 gustus, the Pictish monarch, informed of the arrival of 
 these strangers, came to visit them in person, and, pleased 
 with the simplicity and sanctity of their manners, became 
 a convert to Christianity ; granted them his palace, with 
 the adjoining lands for a settlement : and after the 
 subsequent erection of a church, changed the name 
 Mucross into Kilrymont, or " the church of the King's 
 Mount". St. Regvdus lived for thirty years afterwards 
 at this place, under the patronage of Hergustus, dis- 
 47 
 
 Seal and Arms. 
 
 seminating the doctrines of the Christian faith through- 
 out this part of the country, and was buried in the 
 church over which he had so long presided. After the 
 subjugation of the Pictish dominion, and the establish- 
 ment of the Scottish monarchy, by Kenneth McAlpine, 
 that king transferred the seat of government from 
 Abernethy to this place, to which, in honour of the 
 Apostle, he gave the name of St. Andrew's, by which it 
 has ever since been designated ; and on the division of 
 the country into dioceses, in the reign of Malcolm HI., 
 St. Andrew's became the metropolitan see of the king- 
 dom. In 1120, an Augustine priory was founded here, 
 by Robert, Bishop of St. Andrew's, who also, in 1140, 
 obtained from David I. a charter erecting the town into 
 a royal burgh. To this important priory the nomina- 
 tion of the bishop was transferred, partially at first, but 
 completely in 1273, from the Culdees, whose chapel 
 of St. Regains served as the diocesan church before the 
 cathedral was erected. In 1 159, Bishop Arnold com- 
 menced the erection of the cathedral, which was con- 
 tinued under his successors for more than a century and 
 a half, and ultimately completed by Bishop Lamberton, 
 a zealous adherent of Bruce. According to the uniform 
 practice of the period, the eastern portion was first 
 finished, and at once used for the performance of divine 
 service; the transepts and nave were next proceeded 
 with, and the whole was consecrated by Bishop Lam- 
 berton in 1318, in the presence of King Robert I. and 
 the chief persons in the kingdom. In 1200, Bishop 
 Roger built the castle of St. Andrew's, which was for 
 many years the residence of the prelates of the see ; and 
 in 1374 Bishop Wishart founded a Dominican priory. 
 
 After the battle of Falkirk, in 1298, Edward I. of 
 England summoned the Scottish parliament to meet at 
 St. Andrew's, and compelled every member, with the 
 exception only of Sir 'William Wallace, to swear fealty 
 to his government. A few years subsequently, the same 
 parliament assembled here to take the oath of allegiance 
 to Robert Bruce. Edward III. of England, in 1336, 
 placed a garrison in the castle, which, in the year fol- 
 lowing, was reduced by the Earls of March and Fife ; and 
 in 1401, David, Duke of Rothesay, brother of James I., 
 on a false charge of treason was imprisoned in the castle 
 by his uncle, the Duke of Albany, and afterwards re- 
 moved to Falkland, where he was starved to death. 
 The university of St. Andrew's was founded in 1410, by 
 Bishop Wardlaw, and in the following year was incor- 
 porated by charter, conferring all the powers and privi- 
 leges enjoyed by foreign universities. James I., after 
 regaining his liberty, visited the establishment, bestow- 
 ing on its members many marks of his favour, and in 
 1431 granted them a charter of exemption from all 
 taxes, tolls, or services, in every part of the kingdom. 
 Bishop Kennedy, nephew of James I., in 1455, founded 
 the college of St. Salvator, chiefly for theological studies 
 and the liberal arts ; the foundation charter was con- 
 firmed by Pope Nicholas V., and the institution was 
 subsequently endowed with numerous royal grants. In 
 1471, the bishops of St. Andrew's were dignified with 
 the title of archbishops, and the metropolitan see was 
 elevated to the primacy of the kingdom. In 1512, 
 John Hepburn, prior of the Augustinian monastery, 
 founded the college of St. Leonard, and endowed it 
 from the revenues of the hospital which had been built 
 for the reception of pilgrims visiting the shrine of St.
 
 AND R 
 
 A NDR 
 
 Andrew, and out of his own private property, chiefly for 
 the education of the brethren of the convent. During 
 the numerous religious persecutions which preceded the 
 Reformation, George Buchanan, afterwards preceptor of 
 James VI., was imprisoned in the castle of St. Andrew's, 
 for writing against the Franciscan friars, but contrived 
 to make his escape through one of the windows, and 
 fled into England. In 1537, Archbishop James Beaton, 
 uncle and predecessor of Cardinal David Beaton, ob- 
 tained a bull from Paul III. authorizing the foundation 
 of a college to be dedicated to St. Mary, on the site of 
 the ancient pedagogium ; he endowed the institution 
 with certain tithes, and soon after the commencement of 
 the building, his successor the cardinal undertook the 
 completion. Cardinal Beaton, however, had only re- 
 moved the fabric of the pedagogy, when his death also 
 put a stop to further progress : the next archbishop, 
 Hamilton, finished the erection, and in virtue of a bull 
 from Pope Julius III., in 1552, endowed it out of his 
 episcopal revenues, for the maintenance of four pro- 
 fessors and a number of bursars and servants. The 
 establishment was remodelled in 1579) hy Archbishop 
 Adamson and George Buchanan, and since that time 
 has been confined to the study of theology. In 1546, 
 Cardinal Beaton was assassinated in the castle, and his 
 dead body suspended for a time on the wall, from the 
 same window whence he had witnessed the martyrdom 
 of Wishart. In 1559, after a sermon preached by John 
 Knox the reformer, the populace immediately com- 
 menced the destruction of the venerable cathedral of 
 St. Andrew's, which in a few hours they reduced to a 
 heap of ruins ; and they afterwards plundered and de- 
 stroyed other religious establishments of the city. 
 
 The history of St. Andrew's presents many features 
 of interest, connected with the progress of the Reforma- 
 tion in Scotland, as might naturally be expected from 
 the city being a stronghold of the Church whose cor- 
 ruptions made the great change necessary. The first 
 martyr to reformed opinions in Scotland was John 
 Resby, an Englishman, w'ho, having become a convert to 
 the doctrines of Wycliffe, Huss, and Jerome of Prague, 
 preached those doctrines within the diocese of St. An- 
 drew's, and was apprehended by command of Bishop 
 Wardlaw. Resby suffered at Perth, where he had been 
 signally successful as a reformed preacher ; and a quar- 
 ter of a century afterwards, in 143'2, Paul Crow, a native 
 of Bohemia, and a disciple of Huss and Jerome, was 
 condemned to the stake at St. Andrew's, in which city 
 he had settled as a physician, and had been exceedingly 
 zealous in propagating reformed truth. Another martyr 
 connected with St. Andrew's was the famous Patrick 
 Hamilton, abbot of Fern, and nephew of the Earl of 
 Arran, who suffered in 1527, during tlie archiepiscopate 
 of James Beaton, at the early age of twenty-three. 
 About four years after this martyrdom, which took 
 place in front of St. Salvator's college, Henry Forrest, a 
 young man, a native of Linlithgow, invested with a 
 small order in the Church, was incarcerated by the same 
 archbishop, and condemned to suffer at the stake as a 
 heretic, the sentence being carried into effect at the 
 north gate of the cathedral, that the people of Angus, 
 seeing the flames, might forbear to embrace doctrines 
 whose profession was attended with consequences so 
 dreadful. Soon afterwards, two persons of the names 
 of Gourlay and Straiton were consigned to the flames 
 48 
 
 in the city, charged with denying the supremacy of the 
 pope, and propagating the doctrines of protestantism. 
 The next martyr was the celebrated George IVishart, 
 for the purpose of whose martyrdom, says Spottiswood, 
 " a scaffold was erected on the east front of the castle, 
 towards the abbey, with a great tree in the midst of it, 
 in manner of a gibbet, unto which the prisoner was to 
 be tied ; and right against it was all the munition of the 
 castle planted, if, perhaps, any should press by violence 
 to take him away. The fore tower was hung with 
 tapestry, and rich cushions laid, for the ease of the 
 cardinal (Beaton) and prelates who were to behold that 
 spectacle. " Wishart suffered in 1545, urging the people 
 to cling to the good word of God, and the true gospel 
 of Christ. The spot where the martyrdom took place 
 is at the foot of North Castle- street. In the spring of 
 1558 suffered the last martyr of St. Andrew's in the 
 cause of the Reformation, IValter Mill, an aged priest of 
 the parish of Lunan, near Montrose, who was detected 
 by Archbishop Hamilton, and condemned to suffer in 
 front of the principal entrance to the rathedral. Being 
 upwards of eighty years of age, he was unable to walk 
 without help to the place of execution ; and though 
 some of the previous martyrdoms had presented fea- 
 tures of extreme barbarity, yet the cruelty of perse- 
 cuting so venerable a man was especially conspicuous, 
 rousing the indignation of the people that witnessed the 
 melancholy scene. Within the last few years, a monu- 
 ment in memory of those who suffered at St. Andrew's 
 by fire, in the cause of truth, has been erected at the 
 west end of the Scores, at the top of the declivity to- 
 wards the Links. 
 
 In 1583, James VI., escaping from the thraldom in 
 which he was held by Gowrie, Glencairn, and others, 
 shut himself up in the castle, by connivance of the 
 governor, and was joined here by a number of his loyal 
 subjects. After his accession to the English throne, 
 he assembled here a meeting of the prelates and prin- 
 cipal clergy, to deliberate on the future interests of the 
 Church. In 1645, the Scottish parliament met in the 
 lower room of what is now the university librar)', and 
 passed sentence of death upon Sir Robert Spottiswood, 
 son of the late archbishop, and three other royalists, 
 who had been taken prisoners at the battle of Philip- 
 haugh, and who were publicly executed in the principal 
 street of the city. In 1679, Archbishop Sharpe was 
 murdered at Magus Muir, within four miles of the city, 
 by a party of Covenanters, of whom five, that were 
 afterwards taken prisoners at the battle of Bothwell 
 Bridge, were executed on the spot where the murder 
 was committed, and their bodies hung in chains. Pre- 
 viously to the Reformation, the city was a place of con- 
 siderable commercial importance, and the resort of 
 numerous merchants from France, Holland, and other 
 trading ports ; and according to Martine, at the Senzie 
 fair, held within the priory in the month of April, and 
 which lasted fifteen days, its harbour was filled with 
 two or three hundred vessels from Flanders, Holland, 
 France, and other parts of the commercial world. But 
 after the Reformation, and the consequent suppression of 
 its ecclesiastical supremacy, its trade and shipping fell 
 into rapid decay. In 1655, it was so reduced that a 
 petition was addressed by the magistrates and council 
 to General Monk, praying to be relieved from an assess- 
 ment, on the ground of " the total decay of shipping
 
 A ND R 
 
 ANDR 
 
 and sea trade, and the removal of the most eminent in- 
 habitants"; and in 1656, there was only one vessel, of 
 twenty tons' burthen, belonging to the port. The chief 
 support of the inhabitants, after the Reformation, was 
 derived from its university ; and although its trade has 
 in some degree revived, yet the city has never regained 
 its original commercial importance. An elaborate 
 History of St. Andrew's, abounding in interesting eccle- 
 siastical information, has been written by the Rev. 
 Charles John Lyon, M.A., the episcopal clergyman in 
 the city. 
 
 The TOWN is beautifully situated on the bay of St. 
 Andrew's in the German Ocean, and mainly consists of 
 three spacious and nearly parallel streets, of which the 
 principal is South-street, at whose western extremity is 
 Argyle Port, the only remnant of the ancient fortifica- 
 tions of the city j it is still in good preservation, and 
 over the arched gateway are the city arras. On the 
 north of South-street is Market-street, to the north of 
 which is North-street ; and still further to the north, 
 and bordering upon the bay, is said to have been Swal- 
 low-street, formerly the principal residence of the mer- 
 chants, but which, if it ever existed, has long since disap- 
 peared, and the site been converted into a public walk 
 called the Scores. The three streets are intersected at 
 right angles by various smaller streets ; and a new 
 street called Bell-street has been formed, connecting 
 North with Market street, and which has since been 
 extended to South-street. The houses are generally 
 well built, and of handsome appearance, and many of 
 them are spacious ; the streets are paved, and lighted 
 with gas, and the inhabitants are supplied with excel- 
 lent water, though in insufficient quantity. A literary, 
 scientific, and antiquarian society was instituted in 
 1838 ; the mechanics have established a public library 
 and reading-room, and there is a library and reading- 
 room supported by annual subscriptions of one guinea. 
 The sea-beach is well adapted for bathing ; and near 
 the castle, on an eminence overlooking the sea, a 
 building has been erected containing every requisite 
 accommodation of hot and cold baths. On the ex- 
 tensive links to the west of the town, the ancient game 
 of golf is pursued by the inhabitants, as their principal 
 recreation ; a club for that purpose was established in 
 1754, which consists of about 400 members, and holds 
 two meetings in the year, and to such an extent is this 
 amusement generally followed, that not less than .5000 
 balls are annually used by the players. The Union 
 Club consists of 230 members ; every member must 
 belong to the golf club, and must pay the annual sub- 
 scription of ten shillings, with £"2 entrance fee : in the 
 building rented by the club is an excellent reading-room, 
 supported by the members resident in the city. The 
 environs of the town possess much beauty and variety 
 of scenery, and the numerous remains of its ancient 
 ecclesiastical structures, and its colleges and public 
 buildings, give to it a venerable and interesting appear- 
 ance. Its salubrity of climate, the easy access to it by 
 the St. Andrew's branch of the Edinburgh, Perth, and 
 Dundee railway, and the remarkable facilities it affords 
 for education, also render it a desirable residence. It 
 is especially adapted as a place of retirement from the 
 fatigues of military life or of commerce, and visiters 
 come to it from very considerable distances on account 
 of the advantages it presents for bathing. 
 Vol. I.— 49 
 
 Within the last few years, St. Andrew's has attracted 
 public notice for the spirited improvements that have 
 been carried into effect by its authorities. These im- 
 provements may be dated from the year 1842, when 
 Major Hugh Lyon Playfair, of St. Leonard's, was elected 
 chief magistrate of the burgh : through the energy and 
 public spirit of that gentleman, the town has been im- 
 proved in a variety of respects, and now presents a 
 more worthy remnant of its bygone splendour. The 
 condition of the streets first claimed attention ; they 
 have been mostly repaired, and provided with suitable 
 foot pavement, projections have been removed, and the 
 public convenience and comfort has been generally 
 studied. Bell-street has been extended, as already ob- 
 served, to South-street ; other lines of building have 
 been raised, and the structure of Argyle or West Port, 
 by which South-street is entered from the west, has 
 been completely renovated. It was mainly through the 
 active zeal of the provost, that the Madras Infant School 
 was built in 1S44, and that further grants were obtained 
 from government in 1844 and 1847, for the completion 
 of the new buildings of the United College. On the 
 removal of the infant school to its present convenient 
 and healthful position, he converted the building behind 
 the parish church, in which the school had previously 
 been taught, into a spacious city hall, supplying a de- 
 sideratum for the accommodation of public meetings, 
 long felt to exist. It may be noticed as a gratifying 
 feature in the various improvements, that they have all 
 been carried out with the utmost regard to the preserva- 
 tion of the ancient architectural remains, which have, 
 moreover, been so freed from every thing unseemly, 
 that the ruins of the city are now more worthy than 
 ever of the inspection of the visiter. Provost Playfair 
 has also displayed a warm interest in the moral and 
 spiritual improvement of the labouring classes, especially 
 of the long-neglected fisher population. Such is a brief 
 account of what has been done on behalf of the ancient 
 and once metropolitan city of St. Andrew's within the 
 last few years, chiefly through the perseverance of its 
 active provost. But for carrying out these improve- 
 ments, the public are also specially indebted to the dis- 
 tinguished liberality of the citizens and the members of 
 the corporation, as without the contributions of the 
 former, and frank co-operation of the latter, the greater 
 number of these works of reform could not have been 
 effected. An account of the recent changes will be 
 found in the History of St. Andrew's by the Rev. Charles 
 Roger, published in 1849, from which some particulars 
 have been derived for this article. 
 
 The UNIVERSITY, which 
 consists of St. Mary's or the 
 New College, and the United 
 Colleges of St. Salvator and 
 St. Leonard, i s under the con- 
 trol of a chancellor, chosen 
 by the senatus academicus ; 
 two principals appointed by 
 the crown, one for St. Mary's, 
 with an average stipend of 
 £313, and one for St. Sal- 
 vator's and St. Leonard's, 
 with an average income of 
 £338 ; and a rector, elected by the professors and stu- 
 dents. The principal of St. Mary's is also primarius 
 
 li 
 
 Seal of the University.
 
 AND R 
 
 AND R 
 
 professor of divinity in his college, taking the depart- 
 ment of systematic theology : his total income is above 
 stated. The professorships of ecclesiastical history, 
 biblical criticism, and oriental languages, in St. Mary's, 
 and the professorship of mathematics in the United 
 College, are in the patronage of the Crown, and are 
 valued respectively at £354, £306, £'279, and £386, per 
 annum. The professorships in the United College in its 
 own gift, are, the Greek, valued at £418; logic, £338; 
 moral philosophy, £322 ; and natural philosophy, £313 : 
 that of medicine, £3)6, is in the patronage of the uni- 
 versity. The professorship of humanity, also in the 
 United College, valued at £422, is in the gift of the Mar- 
 quess of Titchfield ; the professorship of civil history, 
 valued at £230, is in the patronage of the Marquess of 
 Ailsa ; and the lectureship of chemistry, founded from a 
 bequest by Dr. Gray, and to which the first appointment 
 was made in 1840, is valued at £70, and is in the pa- 
 tronage of the Earl of Leven. The senatus academicus 
 consists of the principals and professors of both colleges, 
 and the rector of the university presides at its meetings. 
 , By this body alone are degrees conferred, the several 
 faculties recommending the candidates. 
 
 The College of St. Mary is confined to the study 
 of theology. The students neither wear gowns, nor 
 pay any fees, but previously to their admission, must 
 have passed through the ordinary routine of classical 
 and philosophical studies in some of the Scottish col- 
 leges ; the session commences on the 1st of December, 
 and closes on the 31st of March. In the gift of this 
 college are twenty bursaries, among which are, one of 
 £18, two of £15 each, ten between £15 and £10, three 
 of £10, and one of £7. Of these twenty bursaries the 
 greater number have been merged into a common fund, 
 which, at the close of the session, is divided among 
 those students who are not otherwise provided with 
 bursaries, according to their respective circumstances 
 and merits. The college has also the patronage of 
 several incumbencies. The buildings, which have been 
 restored, and partly rebuilt, by government, occupy two 
 sides of a quadrangle : on the west side are the lecture- 
 rooms and dining-hall, and on the north the principal's 
 official house, and also the university library, containing 
 more than 50,000 volumes, open to the use of both 
 colleges. The structure of the library is very spacious, 
 comprising four large halls. Its front towards the 
 street is ornamented with a series of shields, containing 
 the armorial bearings of the several chancellors of the 
 university, from its I'oundation to the present time. 
 
 The Colleges of St. Salvator and St. Leonard were 
 united by act of parliament, in 1747, and placed under 
 the superintendence of one principal. The students 
 wear gowns of scarlet frieze, and pay a fee of £3. 3. to 
 each of the professors whose lectures they attend ; the 
 session commences on the first Tuesday in October, and 
 closes on the last Friday in April. In the gift of the 
 college are sixty-four bursaries, of the aggregate value 
 of £840. Eight are in the patronage of the Madras 
 school ; seven in that of the university and united 
 college ; three, of about £90 each, in the patronage of 
 Sir Alexander Ramsay, Bart., for candidates of the 
 names of Ramsay, Durham, Carnegie, and Lindsay ; 
 and the remainder arc open to general competition. 
 The college has also the patronage of the livings of 
 Dunino, Kemback, Kilmany, Cults, and Forteviot. The 
 50 
 
 buildings have been completely renovated and much en- 
 larged, by government, at an expense of about £18,600. 
 They form a spacious quadrangle, containing the apart- 
 ments in which the professors deliver their lectures ; a 
 hall ; a venerable chapel, in which is the splendid tomb 
 of the founder of St. Salvator's, Bishop Kennedy, with 
 an inscription almost entirely obliterated; a museum 
 connected with the literary, scientific, and antiquarian 
 society of St. Andrew's; and other accommodation. 
 The chapel, which was formerly much larger, and had a 
 beautifully groined roof, since removed from an un- 
 founded apprehension of insecurity, is now used as the 
 parish church of St. Leonard. In the tomb of Bishop 
 Kennedy were found, in 1683, an exquisitely wrought 
 silver mace, now appropriated to the use of the college, 
 and five others merely plated, of which two are preserved 
 in the college of St. Mary, and one each were presented 
 to the universities of Aberdeen, Glasgow, and Edinburgh. 
 The college also possesses three silver arrows which 
 were annually awarded as prizes to a company of archers, 
 from the year 1618 to 1751, and, after being held by 
 the winners for one year, were returned with silver 
 medals attached to them ; to one are appended thirty- 
 nine medals, weighing together 166 ounces, and to 
 another thirty, weighing fifty-five ounces. 
 
 Of the college of St. Leonard, now in ruins, all that 
 remains is the roofless chapel, the hall, and some other 
 buildings which form dwellings. In the chapel are the 
 supposed monument of the founder, Prior Hepburn ; the 
 monument of Robert Stewart, Earl of March, bishop- 
 elect of Caithness, and commendator of the priory of St. 
 Andrew's ; the tomb of John Wynram the reformer ; 
 and a mural monument to Robert Wilkie, for twenty- 
 one years principal of the college. The hall contained 
 the refectory and dormitories of the students ; and on 
 one of the walls is the inscription " Erexit Gul. Guild. 
 S.S.T.D.," with the date " 1650". 
 
 Among the many distinguished men who have studied, 
 or held office, in the university of St. Andrew's, may be 
 mentioned Sir David Lindsay, of the Mount, one of the 
 most celebrated Scottish poets. John Knox, who entered 
 as a student in 1524, early devoted himself to the 
 Protestant cause, and about 1542, as a regent in the 
 university, inculcated doctrines contrary to the tenets of 
 the Church, for which he was compelled to seek per- 
 sonal security by flight. After being driven from place 
 to place, he at length found an asylum for a time, in 
 1 547, in the castle of St. Andrew's, then in the possession 
 of Cardinal Beaton's assassins. It was while resident 
 here that he first publicly preached the Gospel. Some 
 years later, he preached at St. Andrew's the sermon al- 
 ready referred to as leading to the destruction of the chief 
 ecclesiastical buildings in the city. He was successively 
 appointed minister of the congregations at Edinburgh 
 and St. Andrew's ; and after the troubles of the period 
 had terminated in the public recognition of the Reformed 
 faith, he was statedly fixed as minister in the former 
 city. In 15*0, on account of his health, Knox retired 
 to St. Andrew-'s, where he remained till within a few 
 weeks of his last illness and death : he died at Edinburgh 
 on the 24th November, 1572. Other eminent men who 
 studied or taught in the university were, George Buchanan, 
 the historian ; Andrew Melville ; Samuel Rutherford, 
 anthor of the well-known " Letters " ; Archbishop 
 Sharpe ; Dr. Adam Fergicson, author of the " History of
 
 A ND R 
 
 A ND R 
 
 the Roman Republic " ; Dr. James Plaijfair, author of a 
 complete System of Chronology ; Dr. Thomas Chalmers, 
 the distinguished preacher and theological writer ; Lord 
 Campbell, lord chief-justice of the court of Queen's 
 Bench ; &c., &c. 
 
 The Madras College, situated in South-street, was 
 founded by the late Rev. Dr. Andrew Bell, who in 1S31 
 conveyed, for that and other purposes, to the provost of 
 St. Andrew's, the two ministers of the parish, and the 
 professor of Greek in the university, £60,000 three per 
 cent, reduced annuities, and £60,000 three per cent, 
 consols. Of these funds, five-twelfths were to be trans- 
 ferred by them to the provost, magistrates, and town 
 council of Edinburgh, of Glasgow, Leith, Aberdeen, and 
 Inverness, for the foundation of schools on the Madras 
 system ; one-twelfth to the trustees of the Royal Naval 
 School, for a similar purpose ; and one-twelfth to the 
 provost and council of St. Andrew's, Dr. Bell's native 
 place, for the formation of a permanent fund for the 
 moral and religious improvement of the city. The re- 
 maining five shares were to be vested in the same 
 trustees, substituting only the sheriff depute of Fife for 
 the professor of Greek, after the death of the present 
 professor, for the erection and endowment of a college to 
 be called the Madras College of St. Andrew's, and for 
 the establishment of eight bursaries in the United College, 
 tenable by such as have been three years in the Madras 
 College. Buildings were soon after erected, in the 
 Elizabethan style, from a design by Mr. Burn, architect, 
 of Edinburgh, inclosing a spacious quadrangular area, 
 and containing the requisite class-rooms for the school, 
 and two handsome residences for the English and 
 classical masters. The college is under the visitation of 
 the lord-lieutenant of the county, the lord justice clerk 
 of Scotland, and the bishop of Edinburgh. It is con- 
 ducted on the Madras system, by a classical master and 
 an assistant, and an English master, who has also an 
 assistant, the former having a salary of £50, and the 
 latter of £'2.5, from the funds of the college, in addition 
 to their fees ; by masters of arithmetic, writing, and the 
 modern languages, each of whom has a salary of £50, 
 in addition to their fees ; and by masters of the mathe- 
 matics, geography, drawing, and church music. The 
 total number of the pupils is about 900, including those 
 of the English and grammar schools of the city, which 
 have been incorporated with this institution ; and about 
 150 children of the poorer citizens, also, receive a gra- 
 tuitous education in the establishment. In another 
 part of the town is the Madras infant school, erected in 
 1844, partly out of the Bell fund, and partly by means 
 of a government grant. 
 
 The only manufactures in the town are, that of golf 
 balls, of which about 10,000 are annually made; and 
 the weaving of linen for the manufacturers of Dundee. 
 The TRADE of the port is very inconsiderable. Some 
 vessels occasionally Ijring cargoes of timber from Nor- 
 way and the Baltic, but when drawing more than four- 
 teen feet of water, they are obliged to discharge part of 
 their lading before they can enter the harbour. The 
 number of vessels belonging to the port is eleven, of the 
 aggregate burthen of 566 tons. In 184S, upwards of 
 200 vessels arrived in the harbour ; and the revenues 
 arising from shore-dues, levied by authority of the 
 magistrates, have averaged, during the last few years, 
 about £175 per annum. The harbour is formed chiefly 
 51 
 
 by the Kinness rivulet, and is difficult of access ; it was 
 deepened in 1836, has since been improved by the 
 erection of a new quay on the west side, and at spring 
 tides can receive vessels of 300 tons. The estuary of 
 the river Eden, on the northern confines of the parish, 
 is navigable when the tide is nearly full. There are four- 
 teen boats employed in the fisheries off the coast : the 
 fish usually taken are, haddock, cod, ling, skate, halibut, 
 and flounders, the produce of which, after supplying 
 the home markets, is sent to Cupar ; and during the 
 season, the greater part of the boats are employed in the 
 herring-fishery off the coast of Caithness. In the Eden, 
 as far as the tide extends, is a salmon-fishery ; but the 
 produce is inconsiderable. The corn-market is held 
 weekly on Monday, and is well supplied : a weekly 
 market is also held for poultry, butter, eggs, and pro- 
 visions of all kinds. There are fairs on the second 
 Thursday in April, the 1st of August, and the 30th of 
 November (all O. S.) : the first, anciently called the 
 Senzie Fair, was formerly resorted to by merchants from 
 various foreign ports ; the August fair is generally very 
 large, and is much resorted to for the hiring of farm- 
 servants, as well as for general business. The post-office 
 has a good delivery ; and communication is maintained by 
 good roads, and by the St. Andrew's branch of the Edin- 
 burgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. There are branches 
 in the city of the Bank of Scotland, the Clydesdale Bank- 
 ing Company, and the Edinburgh and Leith Bank. 
 
 The city received its first 
 charter of incorporation from 
 David I. in 1140, erecting it 
 into a ROYAL burgh. Under 
 this charter, confirmed by 
 Malcolm IV. in 1153, the 
 government is vested in a 
 provost, four bailies, a dean of j: 
 guild, a treasurer, and twenty- 
 two councillors. There are 
 seven incorporated guilds, 
 viz., the smiths, wrights, 
 bakers, shoemakers, tailors, 
 weavers, and butchers, into one of which an individual 
 must be admitted, previously to his becoming a burgess 
 qualified to carry on trade ; the fees vary from £45 to 
 £15 for strangers, from £20 to £12 for apprentices, 
 and from £2. 10. to £1 for sons of freemen. The ma- 
 gistrates exercise both civil and criminal jurisdiction 
 within the burgh, the former to any amount, but the 
 latter confined chiefly to petty offences. They ac- 
 cordingly hold courts for the recovery of small debts on 
 the first Monday in every month, and a bailie-court twice 
 a week : in the former, the number of cases has greatly 
 diminished since the establishment of the sheriff's small- 
 debt court. A dean-of-guild court is held occasionally. 
 This city, with the burghs of Anstruther Easter and 
 Wester, Crail, Cupar, Kilrenny, and Pittenweem, returns 
 a member to the imperial parliament; the number of 
 qualified voters in St. Andrew's is about 280. The 
 town-hall, an ancient building situated in Market-street, 
 has been enlarged and repaired ; and the gaol, which is 
 chiefly for the temporary confinement of petty delin- 
 quents, is under good regulations. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the east by the German 
 Ocean, and is about ten miles in length and two miles in 
 extreme breadth, comprising 10,300 acres, of which 
 
 H2 
 
 Second Seal of the Burgh.
 
 ANDR 
 
 AND R 
 
 9840 are arable, 345 woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. Its surface is 
 generally level, except towards the east, where the hills 
 of Balrymont have an elevation of 370 feet, and towards 
 the west, in which direction the hill of Clatto rises to 
 the height of 548 feet above the sea. The coast is about 
 six miles in extent, and is bounded in some parts with 
 rocks, of which the Maiden rock and those of Kinkell 
 and Buddo are the most conspicuous. About a mile 
 from the town is the cave of Kinkell, about eighty feet 
 in length and twenty-five feet wide ; the roof, apparently 
 of one entire stone, is about eleven feet in height, but 
 inclining so much towards the east as to form an angle 
 with the floor, which on the west side, about forty feet 
 from the entrance, is covered with plants whose growth 
 is promoted by water constantly trickling from the roof. 
 The principal river is the Eden, over which is an ancient 
 bridge of six arches, called the Gair or Guard bridge, 
 built by Bishop Wardlaw, and wide enough only for one 
 carriage to pass. There are also two small rivulets, of 
 which the larger, after a course of nearly five miles, 
 having turned several corn-mills, flows into the harbour, 
 cm the south-east ; and the other falls into the sea at 
 the north-west of the city. The soil is mostly fertile, 
 and the lands are generally better adapted for tillage than 
 for pasture, producing abundant crops of grain of all 
 kinds ; the system of agriculture is improved, and many 
 acres of land near the mouth of the Eden have been 
 protected from inundation by embankment. The 
 cattle, which were all of the Fifeshire breed, have been 
 mixed with various others of recent introduction ; and 
 the sheep, the number of which has been for some time 
 gradually increasing, are principally of the Highland and 
 Cheviot breeds. The chief substrata are, sandstone, in 
 which are found thin seams of coal ; slate clay ; and 
 clay ironstone : the sandstone is of a grey colour, very 
 durable, and of good quality for building. The planta- 
 tions are mainly around the houses of the landed pro- 
 prietors, and in a thriving state ; they mostly consist of 
 ash, oak, elm, beech, plane, and larch, with some Scotch 
 firs, which are chiefly on the poorer soils. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £'26,834. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of St. Andrew's and synod of 
 Fife. The living is collegiate, consisting of two charges, 
 of which the first is in the patronage of the Crown, and 
 the second in that of the Magistrates and Council of the 
 city. The minister of the first charge has a stipend of 
 £439. 9. 4., with a glebe valued at £'23 per annum ; and 
 the minister of the second charge has £171- 18. 2., with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £16. 15. per annum. 
 They officiate in the parish church and St. Mary's 
 church, in the morning and afternoon alternately. The 
 parish church, originally erected by Bishop Turgot, 
 about the commencement of the twelfth century, an- 
 ciently contained numerous chapels, which were sup- 
 pressed at the Reformation : after the destruction of 
 the cathedral, it was substituted as the cathedral of the 
 archbishops of St. Andrew's. It was rebuilt in 1798, is 
 a spacious structure with a tower and spire, and con- 
 tains about 2200 sittings. In the great aisle is a 
 splendid monument of white marble, erected to the 
 memory of Archbishop Sharpe, by his son. Sir William 
 Sharpe, in 1679. An episcopal chapel was built in 1825, 
 at a cost of £1400 ; there are also places of worship for 
 52 
 
 members of the Free Church, the United Presbyterian 
 Synod, Independents, and Baptists. 
 
 Among the monuments of antiquity with which the 
 city and its environs abound, are the remains of the 
 church of St. Regulus, which is supposed by some to be 
 the original structure erected by Hergustus, King of the 
 Piets, on his conversion to Christianity. Others refer 
 the remains to the seventh or eighth century, but they 
 are rather to be assigned to the twelfth, when the build- 
 ing is on good grounds supposed to have been raised by 
 the zeal of Bishop Robert. They stand thirty-five yards 
 south-east of the cathedral, and consist chiefly of the tower, 
 108 feet high and twenty feet square at the base, formerly 
 (though not, perhaps, originally) surmounted by a spire ; 
 and the eastern portion of the church, thirty- one feet in 
 length and twenty-five feet wide, having two windows 
 on the north and two on the south side. Since the 
 decay of the spire, the tower has been roofed with a 
 platform of lead, to which there is an ascent by a spiral 
 staircase within. On the east face of the tower are 
 traces of its having been joined by three several roofs 
 of different heights, with which the adjoining church 
 was covered either at its erection or at three various 
 times ; and from the summit is obtained an extensive 
 prospect over the bay and the adjacent country. The 
 ancient Cathedral, completed in 1318, was a magnificent 
 cruciform structure, 375 feet in length, 180 feet across 
 the transepts, and seventy-two feet in mean breadth, 
 with a lofty central tower, of which nothing now 
 remains but the bases of the columns whereon it was 
 supported. It had also two turrets at the western, two 
 at the eastern, extremity, and one at the end of the 
 south transept, each 100 feet in height. Of this splendid 
 structure, which was destroyed at the Reformation, only 
 the eastern gable with its turrets, one of the turrets at 
 the west, and portions of the walls, are now remaining ; 
 the style of architecture is partly Norman, and partly of 
 the early and later English, which latter is more pro- 
 minent in the western portion of the building, from the 
 greater richness of detail. The interior has been cleared, 
 by order of Her Majesty's exchequer, from the accumu- 
 lated heaps of rubbish with which it was for years 
 obscured ; and such repairs have been made as were 
 requisite for the preservation of the remains. Within 
 the area of the cathedral precincts, which occupy a 
 space of about eighteen acres, are also some portions of 
 the famous Priory, or Augustine monastery, founded 
 by Robert, Bishop of St. Andrew's, and other monastic 
 buildings, in a state of irretrievable decay. The whole 
 of the ecclesiastical remains above described were in- 
 closed by a wall erected by Prior Hepburn, part of which 
 is now destroyed : it is almost a mile in length, about 
 twenty feet in height, and four feet thick, defended by 
 thirteen turrets at irregular distances, and having three 
 gateways. 
 
 To the north-west of the Cathedral, on an eminence 
 overlooking the sea, are the remains of the Castle, rebuilt 
 by Bishop Trail about the close of the fourteenth century. 
 After the murder of Cardinal Beaton in 1546, it was 
 besieged and destroyed, but was subsequently rebuilt 
 by Archbishop Hamilton, and continued to be the resi- 
 dence of the prelates till the death of Adamson in 1591, 
 after which period it was suffered to fall into decay. 
 The only remains are part of the south side of the qua- 
 drangle, with a handsome square tower, and a few other
 
 A ND R 
 
 A ND R 
 
 fragments. The ancient convent of Franciscan friars 
 was demolished at the Reformation, and the site is now 
 occupied by a part of Bell-street ; and the Dominican 
 convent founded in 12*4 shared the same fate, with 
 the exception of its chapel, a beautiful specimen of the 
 early English style, within the grounds of Madras 
 College, and for the preservation of which Dr. Bell, the 
 founder, made due provision. On an eminence to the 
 west of the harbour are the ruins of the Kirkheuch, a 
 collegiate establishment for a provost and ten preben- 
 daries, originally a Culdee college, said by Fordun to have 
 been erected by Constantine II. in the ninth century, 
 and of which Constantine III., after resigning his crown, 
 became abbot. — See Leonard's, St. 
 
 ANDREW'S, ST.,a parish, in thecounty of Orkney ; 
 containing, exclusively of the former quoad sacra parish 
 of Deerness, 9-6 inhabitants. This parish is situated on 
 the eastern coast of the mainland, and is bounded on 
 the north by the Firth of Shapinshay ; on the east by 
 Deer Sound, which separates it from Deerness ; and 
 on the west by the bay of Inganess. It is about six 
 miles in extreme length and two in average breadth, 
 and is connected with the peninsula of Deerness by a 
 narrow isthmus less than a quarter of a mile in length. 
 The coast is so singularly indented with bays and inlets 
 from the sea, that the form of the parish cannot be well 
 defined or its extent accurately ascertained ; it is gene- 
 rally estimated at thirteen square miles, and the length 
 of the line of coast at about eighteen miles. The surface, 
 though generally low, is intersected by three nearly 
 parallel and equidistant ridges of inconsiderable height, 
 and diversified with hills of gentle acclivity, the highest 
 of which has an elevation of 350 feet above the sea, 
 and, towards the north-east, terminates in precipitous 
 rocks, of strikingly romantic appearance. In one of 
 these is a remarkable cavern, sixty feet in length and 
 about thirty feet wide, communicating with the sea by 
 a passage, through which a boat may pass at certain 
 times of the tide. Deer Sound forms an excellent 
 roadstead for vessels in boisterous weather ; it is about 
 four miles long and two miles broad, has a depth of six 
 or seven fathoms at the entrance, with a sandy bottom, 
 and affords good anchorage for vessels of any size. 
 Inganess bay, on the north-west coast, about two miles 
 and a half in length and more than a mile in breadth, 
 varies in depth from three to twelve fathoms, and affords 
 good anchorage and shelter from all winds. Neither of 
 these bays, however, is at present much frequented. 
 
 The SOIL is extremely various in different parts of the 
 parish, consisting of sand, loam, clay, and moss, alter- 
 nating, and frequently found in combination. The num- 
 ber of acres under tillage is about 2'200 ; the chief crops 
 are oats and bear, with a small proportion of potatoes 
 and turnips. The farming is in a very unimproved 
 state ; some attempts have been made to drain the lands, 
 but very little progress has hitherto been effected in the 
 general system of agriculture. Little attention has been 
 paid to the improvement of the breeds of live stock : the 
 horses most in use are of the Norwegian kind called 
 the Garron, strong and hardy, but seldom exceeding 
 fourteen hands in height ; the black-cattle are small, 
 thin, and ill-conditioned, from the scantiness of the 
 pastures ; and the sheep, inferior to those of the Shet- 
 land breed, are also of a coarser texture of wool, though 
 the wool is of a much finer quality than that of the 
 53 
 
 sheep of the southern counties. The farm-buildings 
 are generally of stones and clay, roofed with thatch ; 
 and the few inclosures that are to be seen, are made by 
 mounds of turf. The rocks are argillaceous sandstone 
 and flag, apparently of the old red sandstone formation, 
 alternated with trap ; and traces of calc-spar and pyrites 
 of iron are found occasionally : slates of inferior quality, 
 and also freestone, are obtained in some parts. 
 
 The manufacture of kelp, formerly carried on here to 
 a great extent, has of late greatly diminished ; and that 
 of straw-plat, which was also extensive, has been almost 
 discontinued. Fairs for cattle are held at Candlemas, 
 Midsummer, and Martinmas. The fish generally found 
 off the coast are, cod, haddocks, flounders, skate, thorn- 
 backs, and coal-fish ; and crabs, lobsters, cockles, and 
 other shell-fish are found on the shores ; but no regular 
 fishery of these has been established. The herring- 
 fishery was commenced in 1833, and is carried on to a 
 very considerable extent; curing-houses have been 
 erected, and there is every prospect of the formation 
 of an extensive and lucrative herring station at this 
 place. Communication with Kirkwall, and with other 
 parts of the mainland, is maintained by good roads, of 
 which that to Kirkwall is one of the best in the county. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Kirkwall and synod of Orkney : the 
 minister's stipend is about £208, with a manse, and 
 a glebe valued at £14 per annum ; patron, the Earl 
 of Zetland. The church, built in 1801, and enlarged 
 in 1827, is a neat structure, conveniently situated, and 
 containing 400 sittings. A Free Church place of worship 
 has been erected here. The parochial school affords 
 the general course of instruction; the master has a 
 salary of £27, with a house and garden, and the fees 
 average £9. There are some slight vestiges of ancient 
 chapels ; and on the point of Inganess are traces of an 
 old circular fort of stones and earth, commanding the 
 entrance of Deer Sound. Several tumuli also remain, 
 one of which, on the glebe land, is about 140 yards in 
 circumference at the base, and twelve feet high ; another, 
 nearly in the centre of the parish, is ninety yards in 
 circumference and sixteen feet high, and a third, of 
 much larger dimensions, is situated on the isthmus at 
 the southern extremity of the parish. 
 
 ANDREW'S (ST.) LHANBRYDE, a parish, in the 
 county of Elgin, 3 miles (E.) from Elgin ; containing 
 11*6 inhabitants, of whom 174 are in the village of 
 Lhanbryde. The parish of St. Andrew's was anciently 
 called the barony of Kill-ma-Lemnock. Lhanbryde, 
 signifying in Gaelic " the church of St. Bridget," was 
 united to it in 1*82, in addition to two other chapels 
 that had been joined before the Reformation. The whole 
 is three miles broad, from east to west, and about four 
 long, from south to north ; exclusively of the Teindland, 
 which is detached one mile distant on the south, and 
 although generally considered as belonging to this parish, 
 pertains to that of Elgin. St. Andrew's Lhanbryde 
 contains about 5000 acres, of which four-fifths are 
 under cultivation, and 650 acres are woodland. It is 
 intersected by the great north road and the river Lossie. 
 The isolated tract just named was originally the moor 
 where the cattle were collected for drawing part of the 
 teinds of both parishes, before they were converted into 
 money ; from which circumstance it derives its name. 
 The surface has in general the appearance of a plain,
 
 A ND R 
 
 ANNA 
 
 iQ which a series of low hills rise, apparently connected 
 together, and all covered with corn, grass, or wood. In 
 the spring season, the district is subject to a succession 
 of storms, some of which are of the most violent, 
 piercing, and blighting nature, equally injurious to 
 vegetation and to animal life. There are three lakes 
 on the confines of the parish : the largest of them, 
 called Spynie, consisting of shallow water covering a 
 deep rich mould, offered a temptation to reclaim it by 
 drainage, which, a few years since, was prosecuted at an 
 expense of nearly £10,000; but the operation has not 
 yet fully succeeded. These lakes abound with trout, 
 eels, and pike, and are visited by a great variety of wild 
 ducks, and sometimes by wild geese and swans. The 
 river Lossie, which, entering the parish at the north- 
 west corner, divides it there from the town of Elgin, is 
 subject to great floodings, and the grounds on its banks 
 frequently suffer injury. Salmon, pike, trout, &c., are 
 found in it, though not in any considerable quantity. 
 
 The SOIL in general is sandy, yet fertile where the 
 land is low and damp ; for, in this part of the county, 
 the farmer has mostly to complain of drought, by which 
 he loses much every summer. All kinds of grain are 
 produced, in a larger quantity than is necessary for 
 domestic use ; as well as the ordinary green crops and 
 grasses : most of the farms are of considerable size, and 
 occupied by gentlemen of skill, and with adequate 
 capital. The whole extent of the parish is incumbent 
 upon a bed of limestone belonging to the calciferous 
 sandstone of the old red formation. About a mile 
 eastward of the manse, a small section made by the 
 burn of Lhanbryde exposes a bed of the inferior oolite 
 kind ; and two miles north-west of the manse there 
 appear, at Linksfield, Pitgaveny, &c., insulated patches 
 of the Purbeck beds of the wealden, or fresh-water 
 deposit, rarely met with in Scotland. Limestone is 
 burnt for agricultural and building purposes, and the 
 wealden clays and marls are applied to fertilizing the 
 light sandy soil in the neighbourhood. Pitgaveny House 
 is a handsome residence, with grounds tastefully laid 
 out. There is a manufacture of malt in the parish ; 
 and a cast-iron foundry, and a manufactory of woollen 
 stuffs, are carried on, the latter of which employs about 
 forty-five hands. A fair is held at Lhanbryde on the 
 fourth Tuesday in October, for cattle, farming imple- 
 ments, and similar commodities. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £4104. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is in the pres- 
 bytery of Elgin and synod of Moray ; the patronage is 
 vested in the Crown and the Earl of Moray alternately, 
 and the minister's stipend is £"206. \9., with a manse. 
 The church is a commodious building, and will hold 
 between 400 and 500 persons. There is a parochial 
 school, the master of which has a salary of £34. 14., 
 with a house and garden, and about £1'2 fees, teaching 
 the classics, mathematics, French, and Gaelic, together 
 with the ordinary branches of education. About half 
 a mile south of the manse is a small square fort of 
 great antiquity, called the Tower of Coxton, which 
 appears to have been of considerable strength. The 
 neighbourhood affords numerous interesting specimens 
 of fossils : many of the distinguishing fossils of the infe- 
 rior oolite have been found in the bed exposed by the 
 Lhanbryde burn ; at Linksfield a great variety also occurs, 
 ^nd of the greatest number and interest, in a dark- 
 54 
 
 Seal and Arms. 
 
 coloured shale bed containing slabs of highly crystal- 
 lized limestone. 
 
 ANGUS. — See Forfarshire. 
 ANNAN, a royal burgh, 
 and a parish, in the county 
 of Dumfries, 15 miles (E. 
 S. E.) from Dumfries, and 79 , 
 (S.) from Edinburgh ; contain- 
 ing, with part of Brydekirk 
 quoad sacra district, 54* 1 in- 
 habitants, of whom 4409 are 
 in the burgh. This place, 
 which is of remote antiquity, * 
 and supposed to have been 
 a Roman station of some im- 
 portance, was, after the de- 
 parture of the Romans from Britain, occupied by the 
 ancient inhabitants till their expulsion by the Northum- 
 brian Saxons. After the dissolution of the Saxon hep- 
 tarchy, the surrounding territories were annexed to the 
 kingdom of Scotland, in the reign of Malcolm Canmore ; 
 and the lands were subsequently granted to Robert de 
 Bruce, Lord of Annandale, who built a castle for the 
 defence of the town, in which he occasionally resided. 
 From its proximity to the English border, the town was 
 frequently plundered during the Border warfare, and 
 sometimes burnt ; and it suffered greatly in the wars 
 consequent on the disputed succession to the Scottish 
 throne, in the reign of Edward L of England. In 1298 
 the town and church were burnt by the English, but 
 they were subsequently restored by Robert Bruce, who 
 in 1306 ascended the throne of Scotland; and in 1332, 
 Edward Baliol, after his coronation at Scone, repaired 
 to the castle of Annan, whither he summoned the 
 nobility of Scotland to pay him homage. During his 
 continuance here, Archibald Douglas, the firm adherent 
 of the Bruces, having collected a force of 1000 cavalry 
 at Moffat, advanced to Annan during the night, and 
 surprised and defeated his guards. Baliol was then 
 induced to make his escape from the castle, and, hastily 
 mounting a horse with neither saddle nor bridle, with 
 considerable difficulty reached Carlisle, without a single 
 attendant. 
 
 In 1547, the town was plundered and burnt by the 
 English under Wharton, accompanied by the Earl of 
 Lennox ; on which occasion, as the castle was at that 
 time dismantled, the inhabitants fortified the church, 
 and for some time successfully resisted the invaders. 
 In the two following years, the town and the surround- 
 ing district were continually infested by the predatory 
 incursions of the English borderers, against whose 
 attacks the governor. Maxwell, levied a tax of £4000 
 for repairing the castle, and placing it in a state of de- 
 fence. During the regency of Mary of Guise, on the 
 arrival of a large body of French soldiers in the river 
 Clyde, the greater number of them were stationed in this 
 town, for the protection of the neighbourhood ; and in 
 1570 the castle was again destroyed by the English 
 forces, under the Earl of Sussex. It was afterwards 
 restored, and continued to be kept up as a border for- 
 tress, till the union of the two crowns by the accession 
 of James VI. At this time, the town was reduced to 
 such a state of destitution that the inhabitants, unable 
 to build a church, obtained from that monarch a grant 
 of the castle for a place of public worship j and during
 
 ANNA 
 
 ANNA 
 
 the wars in the reign of Charles I. the town suffered so 
 severely that, by way of compensation, the parliament, 
 after the restoration of Charles II., granted to the cor- 
 poration the privilege of collecting customs and other 
 duties for their relief. The Highland army, on their 
 retreat before the Duke of Cumberland, in the rebellion 
 of 1745, encamped here on the night of the 2Sth of 
 December, after having lost great numbers of their men, 
 who were drowned while attempting to cross the rivers 
 Esk and Eden. 
 
 The TOWN is pleasantly situated on the eastern bank 
 of the river Annan, two miles from its influx into Solway 
 Firth. It consists of several spacious and regularly- 
 formed streets, intersecting each other at right angles ; 
 and is connected with the country on the opposite bank 
 of the river, by an elegant stone bridge of three arches 
 of sixty-five feet span, erected in 1S24, at an expense of 
 £8000. From the beauty of the scenery in the environs, 
 and the facilities of sea-bathing afforded by the Firth, 
 Annan is a favourite place of residence. The houses are 
 well built, and of handsome appearance, and in the im- 
 mediate vicinity are numerous villas and mansions ; the 
 streets are paved and lighted, and the inhabitants amply 
 supplied with good water. A public library is supported 
 by subscription. The spinning of cotton-yarn, which 
 was introduced here in 1785, is still carried on, and 
 affords employment to about 140 persons; the fac- 
 tory, in which the most improved machinery is era- 
 ployed, has been enlarged, and the quantity of yarn 
 produced averages 4000 pounds per week. The usual 
 handicraft trades requisite for the supply of the neigh- 
 bourhood are pursued ; and there are numerous shops, 
 amply stocked with various kinds of merchandise. A 
 market is held on Thursday; and fairs, chiefly for hiring 
 servants, are held annually on the first Thursdays in 
 May and August, and the third Thursday in October. 
 Facilities of inland communication are afforded by good 
 roads, of which the turnpike-road from Dumfries to 
 Carlisle passes through the town, and by cross-roads 
 connected with the roads to Edinburgh and Glasgow. 
 Great facility of intercourse is also presented by the 
 Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle railway, which here 
 crosses the river Annan, and has a station. 
 
 The trade of the port partly consists in the importa- 
 tion of timber, deals, lath-wood, and tar, from America 
 and the Baltic, in which two vessels are employed ; 
 and about thirty vessels are engaged in the coasting- 
 trade. The exports are chiefly grain for the Glasgow 
 and Liverpool markets, and timber and freestone for 
 various English ports. By the steamers that frequent 
 the port, grain, wool, live stock, bacon, and hams, are 
 sent to Liverpool and the adjacent towns of Lancashire, 
 from which they bring manufactured goods ; and the 
 other imports are mostly coal, slates, salt, herrings, 
 grain, and iron, from Glasgow and places on the Eng- 
 lish and Irish coasts. The number of vessels registered 
 as belonging to the port, is thirty-four, of the aggregate 
 burthen of 1639 tons. The port, which is under the 
 custom-house of Dumfries, and is formed by an inlet 
 from the river, has been much improved by the embank- 
 ment of Hall meadow, on the Newby estate, by the 
 proprietor, John Irving, Esq., at a cost of £3000, which 
 has rendered the channel of sufficient depth for the 
 safe anchorage of vessels of considerable burthen. Two 
 piers have been erected by the proprietors of the 
 65 
 
 steamers frequenting the port, to which a road has bee^ 
 formed from the burgh, by subscription, at a cost of 
 £640 ; and a commodious inn with good stabling has 
 been built near the jetties, within the embankment. 
 
 The ancient records of the burgh having been de- 
 stroyed during the frequent devastations of the town, a 
 charter confirming all previous privileges, and reciting 
 a charter of James V. in 1538, by which it had been 
 erected into a royal burgh, was granted by James VI. 
 in the year I6l2. Under this the government of the 
 town is in the control of a provost, two bailies, and a 
 number of councillors. There are no incorporated 
 guilds, neither have the burgesses any exclusive privi- 
 leges in trade ; the magistrates issue tickets of admission 
 to the freedom of a burgess, without any fee. Courts 
 are held both for civil and criminal cases ; but in neither 
 do the magistrates exercise jurisdiction to any consider- 
 able extent. The burgh is associated with Dumfries, 
 Kirkcudbright, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar, in returning 
 a member to the imperial parliament : the number of 
 the constituency, parliamentary or municipal, is about 
 170. A new prison or lock-up house, containing three 
 cells, was erected some years ago in lieu of the old 
 prison, which is dilapidated. 
 
 The PARISH is about eight miles in extreme length, 
 and varies from two and a half to four miles in breadth, 
 comprising an area of 11,100 acres, of which about 1000 
 are woodland and plantations, and the remainder arable, 
 meadow, and pasture. The surface is generally level, 
 with a slight inclination towards the south, and is inter- 
 sected by three nearly parallel ridges of moderate height. 
 Of these, the western ridge terminates in a conical hill 
 called Woodcock-air, which has an elevation of 320 feet, 
 and is completely covered with wood ; and on the coast 
 are the Annan and Barnkirk hills, the former of which 
 has an elevation of 256, and the latter of 120 feet above 
 the sea. On the banks of the river, the soil is a rich 
 alluvial deposit ; to the west, a clayey loam, alternated 
 with gravel ; towards the east, a poor though deep loam ; 
 and in the northern districts, mostly light, with tracts of 
 moor and moss. The chief crops are grain of all kinds, 
 and the most improved system of husbandry is generally 
 in use ; the farm-buildings are substantial and well 
 arranged. A large open common, of nearly 2000 acres, 
 has been divided among the burgesses, and is now in- 
 closed and cultivated. The pastures are rich : the cattle 
 are of the Galloway breed, with a few of the Ayrshire 
 and short-horned; there are few sheep reared, but by 
 most of the farmers a considerable number of pigs are 
 fed. Salmon, grilse, and trout are found in the Annan, 
 and in the Firth ; and in the former are three fisheries, 
 one the property of the burgh : the fish taken are, 
 sparling, cod, haddock, sturgeon, turbot, soles, and 
 skate. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £13,297, including £5163 for the burgh. The 
 principal substrata are, fine sandstone well adapted for 
 building, limestone, and ironstone : several attempts 
 have been made to discover coal, which arc supposed to 
 have failed only from the borings not having been made 
 to a sufficient depth. Mount Annan, the seat of the 
 late Lieut. -Gen. Dirom, is a handsome mansion, situated 
 on an eminence on the eastern bank of the Annan, about 
 two miles from the town, commanding a fine view of 
 the Firth and the northern counties of England ; the 
 grounds are tastefully embellished, and the scenery is
 
 ANNA 
 
 ANST 
 
 picturesque. Warmanbie, on the east bank of the 
 Annan, about half a mile to the south of Mount Annan, 
 is an elegant mansion, erected within the last few years, 
 and surrounded with pleasure-grounds ; and Northfield 
 House, on the same river, three-quarters of a mile from 
 Annan, is also a handsome mansion, lately enlarged. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Annan and synod of 
 Dumfries : the minister's stipend is about £'250, with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per annum ; patron, 
 J. J. Hope Johnstone, Esq., of Annandale. The church, 
 erected in 1790, is a handsome structure with a spire, 
 and contains 1190 sittings. A second church, situated 
 on the south of the town, a very handsome building 
 affording accommodation to 950 persons, was erected at 
 a cost of £1400, and opened in August 1S42 : the 
 stipend of the minister is about £"0. There are also 
 places of worship for Episcopalians, the United Presby- 
 terian Synod, members of the Free Church, Independ- 
 ents, and Roman Catholics. The parochial school is 
 attended by nearly 100 children ; the master has a 
 salary of £31. 16. 6., with a house and garden, and the 
 fees average about £40 per annum. The Annan 
 academy, a building containing commodious class- 
 rooms, was erected and endowed with the funds arising 
 to the burgh from the division of the common land. It 
 is under the direction of two masters, and is attended 
 by 140 pupils. The masters have a salary of £54 each, 
 and are obliged to employ an assistant teacher, who is 
 paid from the fees ; the fees amount to about £160, and 
 are equally divided between the masters, after paying 
 the assistant. A sum of £5 is annually given from the 
 endowment, for prizes. 
 
 The only remains of the castle of Annan are, a small 
 portion of one of the walls, incorporated in the town- 
 hall, and a stone built into a wall of a small house, with 
 this inscription, " Robert de Brus, Comte de Carrick, et 
 seiniour de Val de Annand, 1300". About two miles 
 from the town, and to the north of the Carlisle road, 
 was a rude monument to the memory of the Scots who 
 fell in a battle with the English, in which the latter were 
 defeated with great slaughter ; among the English slain 
 in the conflict were Sir INIarmaduke Langdale, Sir 
 Philip Musgrave, and Lord Howard, whose remains 
 were interred in the churchyard of Dornock. Close to 
 the spot is a well in which the Scots washed their 
 swords after the battle, and which has since been called 
 the " Sword Well." Near the site of the castle is an 
 artificial mound, supposed to have been a spot for 
 administering justice during the times of the Saxons ; 
 and further up the river is an elevated bank called 
 Galabank, the place of execution. On Battle Hill was 
 lately discovered a mineral spring of great strength, 
 which has not yet been analysed. The celebrated Dr. 
 Thomas Blacklock ; Hugh Clapperton, the African tra- 
 veller ; and the late Rev. Edward Irving, minister of 
 the Scottish church in Regent-square, London, were 
 connected with this place. Dr. Blacklock, who was 
 born at Annan in 1721, though early deprived of sight, 
 was not deterred from prosecuting his studies for the 
 Church, which he pursued for ten years at the university 
 of E<linburgh. His acquirements in the Latin, Greek, 
 and French languages were very considerable ; his know- 
 ledge of the sciences intimate ; and his attainments in 
 poetry remarkable, considering his disadvantages. 
 56 
 
 
 
 ANSTRUTHER EAST- 
 ER, a burgh, sea-port, and 
 parish, in the district of St. 
 Andrew's, county of Fife, 
 9 miles (S. S. E.) from St. 
 Andrew's, and 351 (N. E. 
 by X.) from Edinburgh ; 
 containing 997 inhabitants. 
 This place, which is of great 
 antiquity, was in the reign 
 of Malcolm IV. the property 
 of William de Candela, Lord 
 of Anstruther, whose sons 
 assumed the name of their patrimonial inheritance, and 
 whose descendants are the present proprietors. It ap- 
 pears to have derived its early importance from its 
 favourable situation on the Firth of Forth, and the se- 
 curity of its harbour, in which, on the dispersion of the 
 Spanish armada, the captain of one of the vessels found 
 an asylum from the storm. The town is separated from 
 the parish of Anstruther Wester by a small rivulet called 
 the Dreel burn, over which is a bridge ; and consists of 
 a long narrow street, on the road from the East Neuck 
 of Fife to Kirkcaldy and Burntisland, extending along 
 the margin of the Firth. It was first lighted with gas 
 in 1841. 
 
 The trade appears to have been formerly very consider- 
 able ; a custom-house was erected here in 1710, and iu 
 1827 the jurisdiction of the port was extended to St. 
 Andrew's, Crail, Pittenweem, St. Monan's, and Elie. The 
 amount of duties once averaged £1500 yearly; ship- 
 building was carried on to a considerable extent, but after 
 gradually declining for several years, it was at length en- 
 tirely discontinued. The chief manufacture now pursued 
 is that of leather. The trade consists principally in the 
 fisheries, in curing and exporting the fish, in the exporta- 
 tion of grain and other agricultural produce of the sur- 
 rounding district, and in the importation of variousarticles 
 of merchandise for the supply of the neighbourhood. 
 Barrels are made for the package of herrings taken oflF 
 the coast, and more than 40,000 barrels of them are 
 annually sent from this port, properly cured, for export- 
 ation. There is also a large brewery. The number of 
 vessels belonging to the port is nine, of the aggregate 
 burthen of 964 tons ; a steam-packet plies twice a week, 
 and a sailing-packet once a week, between this place and 
 Leith, and the Edinburgh and Dundee steamers touch 
 at the port. The harbour is safe, and easy of access ; 
 it is protected from the south-easterly winds by a natural 
 breakwater, and an extensive and commodious quay. 
 The custom-house, though an independent establishment, 
 has, since the decline of the trade, communicated with 
 that of Kirkcaldy. The market for corn and other pro- 
 duce is held on Saturday. There are two banks. 
 
 Anstruther Easter was incorporated by charter of 
 James VI., under which the government was vested in 
 three bailies, a treasurer, and fifteen councillors, assisted 
 by a town-clerk and other officers. The bailies and 
 treasurer are elected by the council, who are chosen by 
 the registered £10 electors, under the provisions of the 
 Burgh Reform act. The bailies are justices of the peace 
 within the royalty of the burgh, which is co-extensive 
 with the parish, and exercise both civil and criminal 
 jurisdiction; since 1820, however, few cases have been 
 tried in the civil court, and in the criminal court only
 
 A N ST 
 
 A N WO 
 
 twelve cases, chiefly petty misdemeanors : the town-clerk, 
 who is appointed by the magistrates and council, is 
 assessor in the bailies' court. By act of the 2nd and 
 3rd of William IV., this burgh, together with Cupar, St. 
 Andrew's, Anstruther Wester, Pittenweem, Crail, and 
 Kilrenny, returns one member to the imperial parlia- 
 ment ; the right of election is vested in the £10 voters, 
 and St. Andrew's is the returning burgh. The town- 
 hall is a neat building. 
 
 The parish is situated at the head of a small bay in 
 the Firth, and comprises about nine acres of land, for- 
 merly included within the parish of Kilrenny, from 
 which Anstruther Easter was separated in the year 1636. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £1 II. 5. 
 The incumbency is in the presbytery of St. Andrew's 
 and synod of Fife : the minister's stipend is £1 90, inclu- 
 sive of a glebe, with a manse built by the celebrated 
 James Melville ; patron. Sir Wyndham Carmichael An- 
 struther, Bart. The church, built by subscription in 
 1634, and to which a spire was added about ten years 
 after, was repaired in 1834, and is well adapted for 700 
 persons. There are places of worship for Baptists, 
 Independents, members of the Free Church, and the 
 United Presbyterian Synod. The burgh school is attended 
 by about ninety scholars ; the master has a salary of 
 £5. 6. 8., and about £6.5 from fees, with a house rent- 
 free. There are several friendly societies, one of which, 
 called the "Sea Box Society", established in 1618, and 
 incorporated by royal charter in 1784, has an income of 
 £300, for the benefit of decayed ship-masters and seamen 
 belonging to the port. The late distinguished Dr. 
 Chalmers, and the late Professor Tennant of the univer- 
 sity of St. Andrew's, were born here ; the former died in 
 1847, and the latter in 1848. 
 
 ANSTRUTHER WES- 
 TER, a royal burgh, and a 
 parish, in the district of St. 
 Andrew's, county of Fife ; 
 adjoining Anstruther Easter, 
 and containing 449 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom 339 are in the 
 burgh. This place, the name 
 of which in the Celtic lan- 
 guage is supposed to be de- 
 scriptive of the low marshy 
 Burfh Seal ground on which the church 
 
 " was built, is situated on the 
 
 Firth of Forth, about six miles to the west of Fifeness. 
 The people of Anstruther Wester, who, during the wars 
 consequent on the attempt to establish episcopacy, 
 were zealously devoted to the Presbyterian form of wor- 
 ship, joined the Covenanters ; and many of them fell in 
 the battle of Kilsyth. The town suffered much in 16*0 
 by an inundation of the sea, which greatly injured the 
 harbour, and undermined the foundations of many of 
 the houses. A second inundation, tciwards the end of 
 the same century, swept away the houses in the principal 
 street, and destroyed nearly one-third of the town. 
 
 The TOWN is separated from Anstruther Easter by the 
 Dreel burn, over which a bridge was erected, at the joint 
 expense of the two burghs, in 1801. It has been much 
 benefited by the widening of the principal street, and 
 the houses in that, and also in the other streets, have 
 been considerably improved in their appearance. The 
 streets are paved and macadamised, and the town is well 
 Vol. I.— .57 
 
 lighted, and supplied with water. Anstruther Wester 
 was erected into a royal burgh by charter of James VI., 
 in 1.587, and the government is vested in a provost, two 
 bailies, a treasurer, and eleven councillors, elected an- 
 nually ; the old council choosing the new council, and 
 the latter electing the provost, bailies, and treasurer. 
 The magistrates hold a court ; but few cases of civil ac- 
 tions have been brought before them for some years ; 
 and their jurisdiction in criminal cases seldom extends 
 beyond petty offences, in deciding on which they are 
 assisted by the town-clerli, who acts as assessor. The 
 town-hall is a commodious building. This burgh is 
 associated with Pittenweem, Anstruther Easter, Kilrenny, 
 and others, in returning a member to the imperial par- 
 liament. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the south by the sea. It 
 is about two miles in length, and of irregular form, 
 comprising not more than 600 acres, of which, with the 
 exception of a few acres of common pasture, the whole 
 is arable. The soil, near the sea, is in some parts a rich 
 black loam, and in others a light sand mixed with shells, 
 both of which, though of no great depth, are very fertile ; 
 in the higher grounds the soil is of lighter quality, inter- 
 mixed with tracts of deep clay. The crops are grain of 
 all kinds, with potatoes, turnips, and other green crops ; 
 the lands are chiefly inclosed with stone dykes, but in 
 some places with hedges of thorn. Salmon are caught 
 on the shores of the burgh. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £1998. Grangemuir, the seat 
 of Lord William Douglas, of Dunino, a handsome and 
 spacious mansion, built by the late Mr. Bruce, and 
 greatly enlarged by the present proprietor, is pleasantly 
 situated in grounds laid out with much taste. Ecclesi- 
 astically the parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrew's 
 and synod of Fife : the minister's stipend is £142. 5. 6., 
 of which part is paid from the exchequer ; with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £22. 10. per annum. Sir Wynd- 
 ham Carmichael Anstruther, Bart., is patron of the 
 incumbency. The church is a very ancient structure 
 situated in the burgh, near the sea-shore. The parochial 
 school is well conducted ; the master has a salary of 
 £34. 4. 4., with £4 per annum from a bequest, a house 
 and garden, and school-fees averaging about £75 per 
 annum. There is a bursary in the United College of 
 St. Andrew's, for a scholar from this parish, endowed 
 by the late William Thomson, Esq., chief magistrate of 
 the burgh. 
 
 ANWOTH, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirk- 
 cudbright; containing, with part of the burgh of 
 barony of Gatehouse, 883 inhabitants. This parish is 
 bounded on the south by Wigtown bay, on the south- 
 east by the bay of Fleet, and on the east by the river 
 Fleet, which separates it from the parish of Girthon. It 
 is about six miles and a half in length, and two and 
 a half in breadth, comprising an area of 10,500 acres, 
 of which nearly one-half is arable, and the remainder 
 meadow and pasture. The surface near the sea-shore i.t 
 generally flat, and towards the north rises into hills of 
 various elevation, of which the highest, Cairnharrah, 
 partly in this parish but chiefly in that of Kirkmabreek, 
 is 1100 feet above the sea, and commands an extensive 
 view embracing the Isle of Man, part of Cumberland, 
 and the coast of Ireland. The river Fleet, which has 
 one of its sources in a small loch of that name, in the 
 parish of Girthon, after receiving various tributary
 
 A PPL 
 
 APPL 
 
 streams, falls into the bay of Fleet ; from which it is 
 navigable, for about three miles, to Gatehouse. Salmon, 
 sea-trout, and flounders are found in this river, but not 
 in any great quantity. 
 
 The soil on the coast is dry and fertile, and in other 
 parts thin and light. It has been much improved by the 
 use of lime, which is brought from Cumberland at a 
 moderate cost ; marl, also, is found in the parish, and a 
 great abundance of shells on the sea-shore, which are 
 used for manure. The chief crops are oats and barley, 
 with some wheat, and potatoes, of which large quanti- 
 ties are sent to the ports on the Clyde, and to White- 
 haven and Liverpool. The system of agriculture has 
 been greatly improved ; the lands have been well 
 inclosed, and the farm-houses and offices are in general 
 substantially built. The cattle are mostly of the black 
 native breed, and the sheep, for which the moorlands 
 afford good pasture, are principally of the black-faced 
 kind ; considerable numbers of both are reared in the 
 parish, and sent to the English markets. There are 
 some large tracts of ancient wood on the banks of the 
 river, and in the grounds of the principal landed pro- 
 prietors ; the plantations, which are of oak, ash, birch, 
 and fir, are also extensive, and in a thriving state. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £3*17. 
 The principal mansions are, Cardoness, which has been 
 rebuilt within the last twenty or thirty years ; and Ard- 
 wall and Rusco, which are of older date. The road from 
 Carlisle to Port-Patrick passes along the southern border 
 of the parish ; and the river Fleet, the navigation of 
 which has been greatly facilitated by the construction of 
 a canal by the Murrays of Broughton, affords facility for 
 coasting-vessels bringing supplies of coal, lime, and 
 various kinds of merchandise, and for the transport of 
 cattle, sheep, and agricultural produce. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Kirkcudbright, and synod of Galloway : 
 the minister's stipend is £230. 15. 2|., with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £10 per annum ; patron. Sir David 
 Ma.Kwell, Bart. Anwoth church, erected in 1826, at a 
 cost of nearly £1200, is a neat structure, with a tower at 
 the west end surmounted by a spire, and contains 400 
 sittings. There is a small place of worship in the parish 
 for dissenters. The parochial school is well attended ; 
 the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with a house and 
 garden, and the fees average £20 per annum. The only 
 remains of antiquity are the Tower of Rusco and the 
 Castle of Cardoness, both on the river Fleet, the former 
 two miles above where it ceases to be navigable, and the 
 latter beautifully situated near its mouth ; they are 
 quadrilateral structures, apparently of great strength, 
 but nothing is known of their origin or history. On the 
 summit of a hill to the south-east of the church are the 
 remains of a vitrified fort, 300 feet above the level of the 
 sea, and defended, where most easily accessible, by a 
 double fosse : near the spot have been found several silver 
 coins of Elizabeth, and one of Edward VI. Samuel Ru- 
 therford, author of the Letters, was minister of Anwoth. 
 
 APPIN, county of Argyll. — See Lismore. 
 
 APPLECROSS, a parish, in the county of Ross and 
 Cromarty, 18 miles (W.) from Lochcarron ; containing, 
 with the island of Crohn, and part of Shieldag quoad 
 sacra district, 286 1 inhabitants. It was originally called 
 Comaraich (a Gaelic word signifying protection) on 
 account of the refuge afforded to the oppressed and to 
 5S 
 
 criminals, by a religious establishment that existed here 
 in ancient times. The present name is of modern date, 
 having been given to the place by the proprietor of the 
 estate upon its erection into a parish, at which time five 
 apple-trees were planted cross-ways in his garden. This 
 parish, which formed part of that of Lochcarron till 1*26, 
 stretches along the shore of the Atlantic Ocean, and is 
 distributed into the three large portions or districts of 
 Applecross, properly so called ; Lochs, consisting of 
 Torridon, Shieldag, &c. ; and Kishorn. It is of irregular 
 form, twenty miles long, and as many miles in breadth, 
 containing about 1800 acres cultivated or occasionally in 
 tillage, about 400 acres in wood, and 400 or 500 waste, 
 besides an immense tract of pasture in a natural state. 
 The surface, in its general appearance, is hilly and rug- 
 ged, consisting of rocky elevations covered with heather 
 and wild grass ; and the climate, though not unhealthy, 
 is foggy, and very rainy. 
 
 The soil is light and gravelly, and produces good crops 
 of oats, barley, and potatoes ; the two former are grown 
 to the value of £3000 annually, and potatoes and tur- 
 nips yield about £1500. The farms are of small extent, 
 averaging in rent not more than £6 or £7 each. There 
 are very few inclosures, and though some advances have 
 been made in the draining and improvement of land, the 
 agricultural state is low, the parish being compelled fre- 
 quently to import grain and potatoes for home consump- 
 tion. The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £2488. The rocks consist of red sandstone, gneiss, and 
 quartz ; at Applecross and Kishorn are found large 
 quantities of limestone, and at the latter place is also a 
 copper-mine, which, when worked some time since, pro- 
 duced a fine rich ore. The only mansion of note is on 
 the estate of Applecross ; it is a large ancient building, 
 with some elegant modern additions, and surrounded by 
 about thirty acres of thriving plantation. At Poldown, 
 Shieldag, and Torridon are convenient harbours, to 
 which there belong about twenty-one vessels of from 
 twenty to fifty tons' burthen each, employed in the fish- 
 ing and coasting trade. Most of the population are in 
 some way engaged in the herring-fishery, which in cer- 
 tain seasons is very profitable ; and at Torridon and 
 Balgie are salmon-fisheries that let at £15 or £16. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Lochcarron and synod of Glenelg : the Crown is patron ; 
 the minister's stipend is £158. 6. 5., partly paid from 
 the exchequer, and there is a manse, built in 1796, with 
 a glebe valued at £12 per annum. The parochial church, 
 which was erected in 1817, is in good repair, and ac- 
 commodates 600 persons. At Shieldag, twelve miles 
 distant, is a government church, built in 1827. There 
 is a parochial school, the master of w-hich has a salary 
 of £27, with about £8 fees, and teaches the classics, 
 mathematics, Gaelic, and the ordinary branches of edu- 
 cation. Four schools are supported by societies for pro- 
 moting education. Many fossils have been found. 
 
 APPLEGARTH and SIBBALDBIE, a united parish, 
 in the district of Annand.\le, county of Dumfries, 
 2 miles (N. W. by N.) from Lockerbie ; containing, with 
 the chapelry of Dinwoodie, 857 inhabitants. The term 
 Applegarth is compounded of the words Apple and 
 Garth ; the latter signifies in the Celtic language an 
 " inclosure ", and both conjoined are invariably taken 
 for an " apple inclosure " or " orchard". Bie, or bye, 
 which terminates the name Sibbaldbie, signifies in the
 
 A P PL 
 
 A R B E 
 
 Saxon a " dwelling-place", and the entire name is 
 thought to have been applied to the district from its 
 having been the residence of Sibbalil. The annexation 
 of Sibbaldbie took place in 1609; and the chapelry of 
 Dinwoodie, which some suppose to have been a distinct 
 parish, was also attached to Applegarth : it is said to 
 have belonged to the Knights Templars, who had large 
 possessions in Annandale. Chalmers, on the authority 
 of the Royal Wardrobe accounts, states that on the 7th 
 July, 1300, Edward I., who was then at Applegarth, on 
 his way to the siege of Caerlaverock, made an oblation 
 of seven shillings at St. Nicholas' altar, in the parish 
 church here, and another oblation of a like sum at the 
 altar of St. Thomas ii Becket. A large chest was found 
 some years ago not very far from the manse, which is 
 conjectured to have been part of the baggage belonging 
 to Edward, who remained for several days at Apple- 
 garth, waiting for his equipage. An ancient thorn 
 called the " Albie Thorn", still standing in a field, with- 
 in 500 yards of the church, is said to have been planted 
 on the spot where Bell of Albie fell, while in pursuit of 
 the Maxwells, after the battle of Dryfe-sands, in the 
 year 1593. 
 
 The parish contains 11,700 acres, and is situated in 
 that part of the shire formerly called the stewartry of 
 Annandale. Its surface is diversified by two principal 
 ranges of hills, one on each side of the river Dryfe, 
 which runs from the north-east in a southern direction ; 
 the highest part of the western range, Dinwoodie hill, 
 rises 736 feet above the sea, and Adder Law, in the 
 eastern range, attains an elevation of 638 feet. In addi- 
 tion to its being intersected by the Dryfe, the parish is 
 washed on its eastern boundary by the Corrie water, 
 and on its western by the river Annan, the banks of 
 which streams are in many parts precipitous, and 
 clothed with brushwood and plantations. Among the 
 trees, comprising most of those common to the country, 
 the larch, spruce, and Scotch fir, particularly the larch, 
 after flourishing for twelve or fourteen years, exhibit 
 symptoms of decay, and gradually pine away, in con- 
 sequence of their roots having come into contact with 
 the sandstone rock and gravel. In the rivers and their 
 several tributary streams, eels, pike, trout, and many 
 smaller fish are numerous : and in the Annan, salmon 
 of good quality are plentiful. 
 
 The soil is in general fertile. Between the banks of 
 the Annan and the Dryfe, the land is alluvial, and inter- 
 spersed with strata of river gravel ; the soil on the 
 declivity of the western range is in some parts sharp 
 and good, but in many places has a wet and tilly sub- 
 stratum, and on the higher portions is to be found a 
 black moory earth. Of the entire area, 7392 acres are 
 either cultivated or occasionally in tillage ; 3777 are 
 waste, or in permanent pasture, including sixty or 
 seventy acres of moss ; 331 are in wood, and from 150 
 to 200 are incurably barren. Among the white crops, 
 wheat, which was formerly unknown in the parish, is 
 now an important article of produce ; all kinds of green 
 crops, also, are raised, of good quality, including con- 
 siderable quantities of turnips and potatoes. An ap- 
 proved system of husbandry is followed, but agriculture 
 has not been carried to the same perfection as in some 
 other districts, chiefly from a deficiency in manuring 
 and draining, and from exhausting the soil by too 
 severe a course of cropping. Considerable improve- 
 59 
 
 ments have been made, durmg the present century, in 
 the erection of cottages. The breed of black-cattle has 
 been particularly attended to, and in symmetry and 
 general excellence now rivals the best specimens of the 
 best districts. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £6850. The prevailing rock is the old red 
 sandstone, and the western ridge is interspersed with 
 large nodules of white and greenish whinstone, while on 
 the summit there are greywacke slate and greenstone, 
 diversified by numerous veins of quartz. The seats are, 
 Jardine Hall, built in 1814, and the mansion of Hook, 
 built in 1806 : the former edifice is of red sandstone, 
 cut from a quarry on Corncockle muir, in Lochmaben 
 parish ; the latter is chiefly of greenstone, from the bed 
 of the river Dryfe. In this parish the inhabitants are 
 altogether of the agricultural class, with the exception 
 of a few tradesmen residing chiefly in the small village 
 of Milnhouse. The road from Glasgow to Carlisle, and 
 that from Dumfries across Annandale to Eskdale, both 
 run through the parish : there are two good bridges over 
 the Annan, one of which is on the Glasgow line, and 
 the other on the road from Dumfries. Great facility of 
 intercourse is also afforded by the Caledonian railway, 
 which has a station in the parish. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of 
 the presbytery of Lochmaben and synod of Dumfries ; 
 patrons. Sir William Jardine, Bart., of Applegarth, and 
 John James Hope Johnstone, Esq., of Annandale. The 
 stipend averages nearly £250, and there is a manse, 
 built in 1805, with a glebe of six acres and a half of 
 good land. The church, a plain substantial structure, 
 built in 1760, is inconveniently situated at a distance of 
 five or six miles from some of the population ; it has 
 been at different times repaired and enlarged, and ac- 
 commodates 380 persons with sittings. There are two 
 parochial schools, in which Greek, Latin, French, and 
 geometry are taught, with all the ordinary branches of 
 education : the master of one school has a house and 
 garden, with a salary of £34. 5., and about £25 fees ; 
 the other master has the same accommodation, with a 
 salary of £17. 2. 6., and £15 fees. Roman stations are 
 visible in several places, and a Roman road traverses 
 the parish in a northern direction. Part of the ruins 
 still remain of the church of Sibbaldbie ; and in Apple- 
 garth churchyard is a very ancient ash-tree, measuring 
 fourteen feet in girth at a yard from the ground, and 
 called the " Gorget Tree " from having been used as a 
 pillory : the iron staples which held the collar or gorget 
 were visible not many years ago. 
 
 APPLETREE-HALL, a village, in the parish of 
 Wilton, Hawick district of the county of Roxburgh, 
 25 miles (N. N. E.) from Hawick ; containing 75 inha- 
 bitants. It is situated in the north-eastern part of the 
 parish, east of the road from Hawick to Selkirk. 
 
 ARBEADIE, a village, in the parish of Banchory- 
 Ternan, county of Kincardine ; containing 301 inha- 
 bitants. This village, which is of very recent origin, 
 takes its name from the estate on which it has been 
 built, and appears to have been erected to supply the 
 want of the ancient village of Banchory. A post-office 
 has been established ; there are three good inns, and, 
 in the immediate vicinity, a branch of the Bank of 
 Scotland, and a small lock-up house for the temporary 
 confinement of petty offenders. The Independents have 
 a place of worship. 
 
 12
 
 A R B I 
 
 A R B R 
 
 ARBIRLOT, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 2^ 
 miles (W.) from Arbroath ; containing, with the village 
 of Bonnington, 1045 inhabitants, of whom 77 are in the 
 village of Arbirlot. This place appears to have derived 
 its name, a contraction of Aber-Elliot, from the river 
 Elliot, which runs into the sea a little below its eastern 
 boundar}'. The earliest account connected with its his- 
 tory, states, that a member of the ancient family of 
 Ochterlony originally owned the castle of Kelly, in the 
 parish. This family was succeeded by the Irvines, who 
 also held the castle, which afterwards came into the 
 possession of the Maule family, now sole proprietors of 
 Arbirlot. The parish is about four miles long and three 
 broad, and contains .5050 acres, of which 4200 are cul- 
 tivated or occasionally under tillage, 800 waste, and 
 fifty wood. It is intersected by the Arbroath and 
 Dundee road and railway, and is bounded on the south 
 by the sea, which at this parish has an extent of coast 
 nearly three miles long, level and sandy, and much fre- 
 quented in the summer for the purpose of bathing. In 
 the interior, also, much of the surface is low and flat; 
 and the rest gradually rises to a gentle acclivity. There 
 is no part deserving of particular notice, e.xcept the im- 
 mediate vicinity of the ancient castle of Kelly, which is 
 situated on the banlt of the Elliot, and is in good pre- 
 servation, and surrounded by scenery that is highly 
 picturesque. The Elliot, a stream of inconsiderable 
 size but of great beauty, rises in Ditty Moss, in the 
 parish of Carraylie, and pursuing a south-eastern course 
 for a few miles, through a deep and romantic glen, falls 
 into the sea in the east part of the parish. It has nu- 
 merous mills erected upon it, and formerly abounded in 
 salmon, but since the construction of some dam-dykes, 
 these fish have forsaken it : the stream is still frequented 
 by good trout. There is a chalybeate spring in the 
 parish, of some little celebrity, but it is not now so much 
 frequented as formerly. 
 
 The soil in the lower parts consists chiefly of a light 
 productive loam, but on the higher portions is damp 
 and mossy, and in some places mixed with clay ; the 
 subsoil is a gravelly clay : on the northern boundary 
 is an extensive muir. The average annual produce is 
 valued at £15,000, chiefly derived from crops of oats, 
 barley, hay, and potatoes ; the annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £6395. The only mansion- 
 house is the seat of Kelly, situated in the vicinity of the 
 old castle. A small fair is held once a j'ear. Near the 
 mouth of the river, at Wormy-hills, is an establishment 
 for bleaching yarns, and on the same stream are three 
 meal-mills and a flax-mill. There is also a meal-mill 
 on a small river which forms the boundary line between 
 this parish and Panbride. Ecclesiastically Arbirlot is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Arbroath and 
 synod of Angus and Mearns ; the patronage is vested 
 in the Crown, and the minister's stipend is £184. 4. 5., 
 in addition to which he has a manse, and a glebe of the 
 annual value of £6. The church, rebuilt in 1832, is an 
 elegant structure, situated on the bank of the Elliot, and 
 containing about 640 sittings. A place of worship has 
 been erected for members of the Free Church. There 
 is a parochial school, the master of which has a salary 
 i)f £34. 4., and £20 fees, &;c., with a house and garden. 
 A savings' bank managed by the minister, and a paro- 
 chial hbrary, consisting of above 500 volumes, kept in 
 the manse, are also supported. 
 60 
 
 Seal and Arms. 
 
 ARBROATH, or Aber- 
 BROTHOCK, a thriving sea- 
 port, a burgh, and parish, 
 in the county of Forf.\r, 
 15 miles (S. E. by E.) from 
 Forfar, and 60 (N. N. E.) 
 from Edinburgh ; the parish 
 containing, with the former 
 cjuoad sacra parish of Abbey, 
 and part of the quoad sacra 
 parish of Ladyloan, 8707 
 inhabitants, of whom 7218 
 are in the burgh. Within 
 the parliamentary boundary is a population of 14,591. 
 This place derives its name (originally Aberbrothock, of 
 which its present appellation is a contraction) from its 
 situation at the mouth of the river Brothock, which 
 falls into the German Ocean. An abbey was founded 
 here in the year 1178, by William the Lion, King of 
 Scotland, for monks of the Tyronensian order, brought 
 from the abbey of Kelso, and was dedicated to St. Thomas 
 of Canterbury, in honour of the Archbishop Thomas k 
 Becket. This establishment was amply endowed by 
 the founder and his successors, and its abbots had a 
 seat in parliament. A general assembly of the estates 
 of Scotland was held in the abbey in 1320, when a 
 declaration was drawn up, in strong and emphatic terms, 
 asserting the independence of the Scottish Church of 
 the Roman see, and renouncing aU subjection to the 
 interference of the pope. In 1445, a battle took place 
 here between the retainers of the families of Lindsay 
 and Ogilvie, which originated in a contest concerning 
 the election of a bailie of the burgh, and in which the 
 chieftains on both sides were killed, with nearly 500 of 
 their dependents. In the sixteenth century, the abbey 
 was almost destroyed by Ochterlonj', a chieftain in the 
 neighbourhood, who, having quarrelled with the monks, 
 set fire to the buildings ; and at the Dissolution, which 
 followed a few years afterwards, this once extensive pile 
 was little more than a wide heap of scattered ruins. 
 The revenues were returned at £2483. 5. in money, 
 with about 340 chalders of grain, and the patronage of 
 thirty-four parish churches ; and the site and lands 
 belonging to the abbey were, after its dissolution, erected 
 into a temporal lordship, in favour of Claude Hamilton, 
 third son of the Duke of Chatelherault, who was created 
 Lord Aberbrothock, which still forms one of the inferior 
 titles of the Duke of Hamilton. In 1781, the town was 
 menaced by the commander of a French privateer, who 
 approached the port, and commenced a brisk firing for 
 a short time, which was succeeded by his sending a flag 
 of truce, demanding from the magistrates and inha- 
 bitants the payment of £30,000 as a ransom for the 
 town, which, on their refusal, he threatened to set on 
 fire. The authorities of the place obtained by parley a 
 short interval, in which having armed several of the 
 inhabitants, they set him at defiance, and he left the 
 coast, making prizes of some small craft that he met 
 with in his retreat. A battery was soon afterwards 
 erected in front of the harbour, to protect the town 
 from similar insult, and was kept up till the termination 
 of the last war, when it was dismantled. 
 
 The TOWN is situated at the mouth and on each side 
 of the river Brothock, and from being a place of scanty 
 population and inconsiderable trade has within the last
 
 A R B R 
 
 A R B R 
 
 half century become a thriving and populous burgh, the 
 seat of extensive manufactures, and remarkable for the 
 spirit and enterprise of its inhabitants. Its situation is 
 irregular, but striking and picturesque. The High-street, 
 reaching from the sea to beyond the abbey ruins, is 
 spacious and handsome, especially at the market-place 
 or cross, where the town-house, guildhall, trades-hall, 
 and Commercial Bank are conspicuous objects. Paral- 
 lel to it are other streets both to the east and west, 
 which are intersected by minor streets extending over a 
 large area, and running at several points into the parish 
 of St. Vigean's, in which a considerable portion of the 
 suburbs is situated. Fronting the harbour, on the west 
 side of the Brothock, is a handsome range of houses, 
 forming part of Ladyloan-street, which, stretching west- 
 ward, is adorned on the north by Ladyloan church, a 
 neat modern erection, and on the south or seaward side 
 by the signal tower of the Bell-rock lighthouse, and the 
 well-built station of the Dundee railway. Many of the 
 private houses are elegant and substantial, and those in 
 the suburbs, being embellished with gardens and shrub- 
 beries, produce a pleasing effect. All the houses are 
 built of stone obtained from quarries in the neighbour- 
 hood, and the quarries are also celebrated for the pro- 
 duction of a superior description of pavement, of which 
 immense quantities are annually shipped for both home 
 and foreign markets, under the well-known denomina- 
 tion of Arbroath pavement. The abundance of this 
 article is visible in the excellent footways that are found 
 here, even in the most obscure streets ; the care of these 
 and of all other police matters, being committed to a 
 board elected by the £10 parliamentary voters. Ar- 
 broath is lighted with gas, manufactured by a joint- 
 stock company. Water is chiefly derived from an ex- 
 cellent spring in Boulzie hill, an eminence at the head 
 of Hill-street, and from private wells : the supply is 
 rather deficient, but as the town becomes larger, means 
 will no doubt be taken for obtaining ampler supplies of 
 this necessary of life. The town is clean, airy, and 
 healthy, but cold in spring from the prevalence of 
 easterly winds, which blow keenly from the sea. 
 
 Westward of Arbroath is the spacious field forming 
 the public common, accessible at all times to the citizens 
 for pleasure and recreation : the national game of golf 
 is occasionally played here, but not with the spirit ob- 
 servable in some of the other Scottish burghs, and 
 cricket is unknown. This common, as well as all the low 
 ground to the west, the site of part of the town itself, 
 and to the east of it, has evidently been reclaimed from 
 the sea ; the rising ground all along the coast, at various 
 distances from the present high-water mark, exhibiting 
 clear indications of having at some remote period formed 
 the boundary of the ocean. At the common this geo- 
 logical feature is distinctly perceptible, as an elevation 
 varying from twenty to fifty feet gives to the spot the 
 respective appellations of high common and low com- 
 mon. Along the ridge is a walk commanding a fine 
 view of the bay, the Tay estuary, and the east coast of 
 Fife. Eastward of the town, the Boulzie hill forms an 
 attractive object, the view from it of the sea, the town, 
 and neighbouring country, being of great interest and 
 extent. A footpath leads thence along the edge of the 
 cliffs to Seaton-den, a distance of half a mile, where the 
 elevated ground assumes a bolder aspect, and, projecting 
 further seaward, presents for miles a most striking and 
 61 
 
 picturesque line of coast. Here the rocks, in many 
 parts lofty and precipitous, assume strange and fantastic 
 shapes ; deep gullies and dark subterranean caves as- 
 tonish the spectator, and such is the character of the 
 coast for six miles, terminating in the bold promontory 
 of Redhead, a rocky bulwark some hundreds of feet 
 high. Redhead is in the parish of Inverkeillor, which 
 is separated from that of Arbroath by St. Vigean's 
 parish. 
 
 There is a public subscription library in the town, 
 supported by a proprietary of £5 shareholders, in which 
 is a collection of about 4000 volumes on subjects of 
 general literature ; and smaller libraries, of raisceilaneous 
 and theological works, are attached to the quoad sacra 
 churches. A mechanics' library, now containing about 
 400 volumes, was established in 1824, and connected 
 with it is a mechanics' institution, or school of arts, for 
 which an appropriate building has been erected, con- 
 taining a reading-room well supplied with periodicals 
 and newspapers. Besides these institutions, there are 
 two public reading-rooms, and one belonging to the 
 shipping interest ; also three masonic lodges, and a 
 gardeners' society. A museum, likewise, has been es- 
 tablished, which, though comparatively in its infancy, 
 already boasts of a fair collection of the antiques and 
 curiosities usual in such a repository. 
 
 Arbroath has long been famous for its hand-loom 
 manufactures of canvas and linens, and in this respect 
 it still retains its deservedly high character, these arti- 
 cles being still manufactured and exported to a large 
 extent : a portion of the sailcloth required for the royal 
 navy is annually supplied from this place. The spinning 
 of flax and tow is also carried on largely ; about 7000 
 tons of flax are on an average imported yearly from 
 Riga, Petersburgh, Memel, and other ports in the Baltic ; 
 and this, with the supplies derived from other quarters, 
 is hackled, and spun into yarns of various sizes from a 
 pound and a half per spindle upwards. The num- 
 ber of spinning mills or factories in the town and 
 suburbs is nineteen, driven by steam-engines of 350- 
 horse power in the aggregate : nearly all of them are 
 within the parish of St. Vigean's. These mills, with 
 the bleaching, mill-washing, manufacturing, and other 
 processes carried on, give employment to several thou- 
 sand persons of both sexes, from thirteen years of age 
 upwards. After supplying the demand on the spot, the 
 surplus yarns are sent to the neighbouring towns of 
 Forfar, Kirriemuir, and Brechin, where manufacturing 
 is carried on to a large extent : a considerable quantity 
 of linen yarns has also, of late years, been exported to 
 France. Thus Arbroath may be considered, in reference 
 to its size, as one of the most flourishing scats of the 
 linen manufacture in Scotland ; that manufacture, in- 
 deed, forming the staple trade of the place. There are 
 also such works as cast-metal foundries, tan- works, 
 bone-mills, rope-works, &c., largely carried on ; and 
 ship-building is pursued to a considerable extent. The 
 Arbroath and Forfar railway, as originally constructed, 
 was opened to the public in January 1839; the hne is 
 about fifteen miles in length, and the principal station is 
 a handsome building with every requisite accommodation. 
 The Dundee and Arbroath railway, along the coast, has 
 also its terminal station here ; it is about seventeen 
 miles long, and is connected with the Arbroath and 
 Forfar line. The market is ou Saturday, and is supplied
 
 ARB II 
 
 AR BR 
 
 with grain of all kinds. Fairs are held on the last 
 Saturday in January, the first Saturday after the old 
 term of Whit- Sunday, on the ISth of July, and the first 
 Saturday after Martinmas : the fair on the 18th of July 
 is denominated St. Thomas's market, and on the day 
 following is what is called the Old market, both having 
 been holidays from time immemorial. 
 
 Arbroath was formerly a creek to the port of Mon- 
 trose, but in consequence of its growing importance as 
 a maritime town, and its increasing manufactures, the 
 lords of the treasury were lately pleased to entertain a 
 representation made by the citizens, and raise the place 
 to the status of an independent port. There is now a 
 regular establishment of officers, consisting of a col- 
 lector, comptroller, and the requisite complement of 
 subordinates. The principal imports, besides flax, are 
 hides, bark, bones, timber, hemp, and occasionally grain, 
 to which was latterly added guano direct from Ichoboe. 
 A large coasting-trade is also carried on. In the Lon- 
 don trade alone three first-rate clippers are employed ; 
 with Newcastle a large intercourse is constantly kept 
 up in coal and goods, and there are regular traders also 
 to Leith and Glasgow, besides which a number of small 
 craft are employed in bringing coal, lime, and other 
 articles, and in carrying away agricultural produce, 
 pavement, &c. There are at present registered as be- 
 longing to the port 106 vessels of the aggregate burthen 
 of 10,898 tons. In a recent year, the number of ships 
 reported inwards from foreign parts was 101; the 
 amount of duties was £8725. 
 
 The HARBOUR appears to have been first constructed 
 in 1394, by the inhabitants, in conjunction with the 
 abbot, who contributed the greater portion of the ex- 
 pense, in consideration of a certain duty to be paid 
 annually from the lands of the burgh. A pier of wood 
 was erected at the extremity of the High-street, which, 
 being found ill-adapted to the purpose, was abandoned 
 in 1/25, and the harbour removed to the western side 
 of the river, where a basin faced with stone was con- 
 structed, 124 yards in length and eighty yards in 
 breadth, and a substantial pier of stone built. Great as 
 this improvement was, however, it was found in the 
 course of another century to afford very inadequate 
 accommodation to the trade and shipping of the place ; 
 and the inhabitants, alive to the necessity of removing 
 so serious a drawback to the prosperity of the town, 
 obtained an act of parliament in 1839 for enlarging and 
 improving the harbour. A spacious new tidal harbour 
 was accordingly formed, to the south and east of the 
 old one, at an expense exceeding £50,000. A sea-wall 
 of great length and solidity, constructed of ponderous 
 blocks of hewn stone tremailed together, defends the 
 harbour from the German Ocean, which in easterly 
 gales drives ashore with much violence. At the western 
 extremity, or return-head, as it is called, of this mural 
 bulwark, is a lighthouse of the improved construction 
 for directing vessels into the harbour at night, a signal- 
 post with balls and flag serving the same purpose 
 during the day. On the opposite side is a breakwater 
 composed of the same massive materials, and between 
 this and the return-head is the entrance to the harbour, 
 which is calculated to admit ships of from ten to fifteen 
 feet draught of water, according to the state of the tides. 
 The bar, which consists of silt and soft sandstone, is 
 not considered as a formidable obstacle to the entrance 
 62 
 
 of ships. On each side of it is a range of low rocks, in 
 the direction of which some succeeding generation will 
 doubtless erect another sea-wall and breakwater, thus 
 annihilating the bar. The harbour is under the ma- 
 nagement of a board of trustees elected annually under 
 the provisions of the above-mentioned act of parliament. 
 The revenue in 1844 amounted to upwards of £3000, 
 shewing a vast increase in the trade of the port, the 
 amount in 1819 having been only £679- In connexion 
 with the harbour, and under the same management, is 
 a patent-slip, well adapted for the repairing of vessels. 
 
 At a distance of twelve miles from the shore, but 
 opposite to the harbour, is the Bell Rock Lighthouse, 
 erected under an act of parliament obtained in 1806, 
 and completed in 1811. It is built upon a rock about 
 427 feet in length, and 230 feet in breadth, at low water, 
 and rising to an average height of about four feet from 
 the sea. The lighthouse is of circular form. The two 
 lower courses of masonry, all of which are dove-tailed, 
 are sunk into the rock. The diameter at the base is 
 forty-two feet, gradually diminishing to the floor of the 
 light room, which is thirteen feet in diameter. From 
 the foundation the elevation is solid to the entrance, 
 which is at a height of thirty feet, and is attained by a 
 ladder of ropes with steps of wood ; the walls here are 
 seven feet in thickness, and gradually decrease to one 
 foot at the lantern, which has an elevation of 100 feet 
 from the base, and is fifteen feet in height, and of octa- 
 gonal form. The lantern contains a light of Argand 
 burners with powerful reflectors, revolving round its 
 axis in sis minutes, and in each revolution displaying 
 alternately a bright and a deep red light, which in clear 
 weather may be plainly seen at a distance of eighteen 
 miles. Two large bells connected with the lighthouse 
 are tolled by the machinery which moves the lights, 
 when the weather is foggy ; and on the harbour of Ar- 
 broath a building has been erected for the accommoda- 
 tion of the keepers, three of whom are constantly at the 
 lighthouse for six weeks, when they are relieved, and 
 spend two weeks on shore. Attached to this building 
 is a signal tower, fifty feet high, by means of which the 
 keepers on the shore communicate with those on the 
 rock. The whole expense of the lighthouse, which is 
 of such important benefit to the navigation of this part 
 of the coast, did not exceed £60,000. 
 
 The town was made a royal bcrgh by charter of 
 James VI., in 1599, reciting that the original charters, 
 with the title-deeds of the town, and other documents, 
 were taken from the abbey, where they had been depo- 
 sited for security, and destroyed by George, Bishop of 
 Moray. The inhabitants appear to have been before 
 incorporated by the abbots, who reserved to themselves 
 the nomination of one of the bailies by whom the town 
 was governed. By King James's confirmatory charter 
 of all previous rights and privileges, the burgh and har- 
 bour were made free, and the lands called the common 
 muir were conveyed to the burgesses, with power to 
 levy anchorage customs and shore dues, and to apply 
 the produce to the maintenance of the harbour. Under 
 this charter, and the recent Municipal Reform act, the 
 government is vested in a provost, two bailies, a dean 
 of guild, and treasurer, and twelve councillors, all 
 chosen subject to the provisions of the Municipal Re- 
 form act. There are seven incorporated trades, the 
 whole of which have the exclusive right of carrying on
 
 A R B R 
 
 A R B R 
 
 their trades within the burgh, with the exception of the 
 weavers ; the dean of guild also grants temporary- 
 license to trade, to traders who decline entering with 
 the guild corporation. The magistrates possess all the 
 jurisdiction appendant to royal burghs, and hold courts 
 of pleas in civil actions weekly to an unlimited extent, 
 and also criminal courts, in which, though by the 
 charter they have full jurisdiction in capital cases, they 
 confine themselves to the trial of petty olfenees, the 
 town-clerk acting as assessor. The magistrates have 
 power by the charter to hang and drown, and to replevy 
 any action whatever against an inhabitant of the 
 burgh, from all judges in the kingdom, upon giving 
 security for administering justice within the term of 
 law. The dean of guild likewise holds a court for de- 
 ciding on cases of disputed marches within the burgh, 
 and for enforcing compliance with the acts of parliament 
 regulating weights and measures ; in which he is as- 
 sisted by a clerk and procurator-fiscal. Previously to 
 the union of the two kingdoms, the burgh sent a mem- 
 ber to the Scottish parliament, but after that event was 
 associated with Montrose, Brechin, Bervie, and Aber- 
 deen in returning a representative to the imperial par- 
 liament ; and the only change in this respect, under 
 the act of the 'iad and 3rd of William IV., is the substi- 
 tution of Forfar in lieu of Aberdeen, and the extension 
 of the elective franchise to £10 householders. The 
 provost is the returning officer. The guildhall is a neat 
 plain edifice, adapted for the business of the guild cor- 
 poration; and the trades'-hall, erected in 1814, is a 
 handsome building. The town-house, erected in 1806, 
 is a spacious and elegant structure, comprising a great 
 hall, and offices for the town-clerk and others, with 
 apartments for the meetings of the council, and for 
 holding courts : the upper part, formerly used as the 
 burgh gaol, has been fitted up as commodious com- 
 mittee-rooms, and for other public purposes. At a short 
 distance behind the town-house stand the new gaol, the 
 gaoler's house, and the police-office, the whole forming 
 a neat building, with very little appearance externally of 
 the purposes to which it is devoted. The cells are con- 
 structed on the modern principle, properly ventilated, 
 and well arranged for the health and classification of 
 prisoners. In the police department is a small but 
 commodious court-room, where the burgh magistrates 
 sit every Monday for the summary disposal of petty 
 delinquencies. 
 
 Arbroath parish is about three miles in length, and 
 of very irregular form, varying from little more than 200 
 yards to a mile and a quarter in breadth. It comprises 
 8'20 acres of arable land, and twenty-six of common land 
 in pasture. The surface is comparatively level, rising by 
 a gradual ascent from the shore till, at the opposite ex- 
 tremity, it attains an elevation of 150 feet above the sea. 
 The only river is the Brothock, which rises in the ad- 
 joining parish of St. Vigean's, and after a course of five 
 or six miles, flows through this parish for about a quar- 
 ter of a mile, and falls into the sea at the harbour. A 
 small stream which in its course gives motion to several 
 spinning-mills, forms a tributary to the Brothock ; but 
 unless swollen with incessant rains, it is comparatively a 
 shallow stream. The scenery is pleasingly varied ; and 
 the town, as seen from the sea, is an interesting feature, 
 seated in the curve of a range of small hills, which rise 
 behind it. These hills command an extensive prospect 
 63 
 
 of the Lothians, the eastern portion of the coast of Fife, 
 and the estuaries of the Forth and Tay, towards the 
 south ; the view terminating, towards the north, in the 
 range of the Grampian hills. Near the town the soil is 
 a rich black loam ; in the higher lands, thin, resting 
 upon a retentive clay, which renders it scarcely suscep- 
 tible of improvement ; and along the coast, light and 
 sandy. The chief crops are grain of all kinds, potatoes, 
 and turnips ; bone-dust and guano are used for manure, 
 and the farms are in general well arranged and skilfully 
 managed. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £17,314. A fishery is carried on with consi- 
 derable success : cod, haddock, and flounders are taken 
 in abundance off the coast, with herrings and mackerel, 
 in their season ; lobsters, crabs, and various kinds of 
 shell-fish are found in great plenty, and attempts have 
 been made to procure a supply of salmon by putting 
 down stake-nets, but hitherto without much success. 
 
 This parish is the seat of the presbytery of Arbroath, 
 in the synod of Angus and Mearns ; patron, the Crown : 
 the minister's stipend averages about £210, with a glebe 
 valued at £4. 8. 11. There is also an assistant minister, 
 appointed by the Kirk Session, whose emoluments, in- 
 cluding the session clerkship, average about £85. The 
 church, which was enlarged in 1/64, and to which an 
 elegant spire was added in 1831, at an expense of £1300, 
 raised mostly by subscription, is a plain cruciform struc- 
 ture, situated nearly in the centre of the town, and 
 adapted for 1390 persons. A chapel of ease was erected 
 in 1797, oa the grounds of the ancient abbey, and is 
 thence called the Abbey chapel ; it is a neat edifice for 
 a congregation of about 1280, and a quoad sacra district 
 was annexed to it, comprising a population of 2289 : 
 income of the minister, about £100. Another chapel of 
 ease was erected in 1829, for the accommodation of the 
 inhabitants of that portion of the suburbs within the 
 parish of St. Vigean's ; it is a neat structure, and con- 
 tains 1080 sittings, from the rents of which the minister 
 derives an income of £150 : a quoad sacra district named 
 Inverbrothock has been attached to it, containing 5195 
 persons. A few years ago another chapel of ease was 
 erected, for the accommodation of the inhabitants on the 
 west side of the Brothock : it has a district assigned it 
 for quoad sacra purposes, containing a population of 
 2116, partly in St. Vigean's parish. There are places of 
 worship for the Free Church, the United Presbyterian 
 Synod, Episcopalians, Original Seceders, Independents, 
 Baptists, Bereans, Glassites, and Wesleyans. 
 
 "The burgh school, and also the parochial school, have 
 merged into an institution of more recent establish- 
 ment, called the Academy, for which a handsome and 
 appropriate building was erected in 1821, at an expense 
 of £1600, raised chiefly by subscription. This institu- 
 tion is under the control of a rector, appointed by the 
 corporation, and three masters, chosen by the directors; 
 to each of these a distinct department is assigned, and 
 there are consequently four separate schools. The 
 classical and mathematical school is under the super- 
 intendence of the rector, whose salary is £34 per annum, 
 which, augmented with an allowance of £6. 10. for 
 house-rent, and the proceeds of a bequest by Mr. John 
 Colvill for the gratuitous instruction of five children, 
 amounts to £60 per annum : the commercial, English, 
 and general schools are under the three masters, who 
 have a salary of £25 each. These salaries are paid from
 
 ARBR 
 
 A RB U 
 
 the various funds constituting the endowment of the 
 schools, and are exclusive of school-fees. The Sabbath- 
 evening School Society, which has been established for 
 more than thirty years, comprehends the whole of the 
 town and suburbs ; and connected with the schools 
 under its superintendence is a library of more than 
 1100 volumes, containing many standard and valuable 
 works, in addition to such as are requisite for the chil- 
 dren attending school. On the high common is an 
 infirmary, a building of elegant design : it cost about 
 £1500, defrayed by subscription, and Lord Panmure 
 presented £1000 towards the endowment. Mr. Car- 
 michael, in 1733, bequeathed £600 and some rent- 
 charges for the benefit of seven widows of ship-masters, 
 producing at present about £130 per annum; and the 
 above-mentioned Mr. John Colvill, late town-clerk, in 
 1811 left £10 per annum to the minister of the Epi- 
 scopal chapel, £10 per annum to the poor of the parish, 
 and a sum for the assistance of twenty householders, 
 which now produces to each £3. ID. annually. 
 
 The chief relics of antiquity connected with Arbroath 
 are the remains of its venerable abbey. This ancient 
 building was one of those which suffered most from 
 popular violence at the Reformation, the whole being 
 then burned, and reduced to ruin. The north wall, in 
 particular, of the nave and transept, was completely 
 thrown down, so as to leave the interior open on that 
 side to the adjacent cemetery ; soil collected, and trees 
 grew up, among the broken fragments, and in course of 
 time the traces of the north wall were entirely oblite- 
 rated, and graves were gradually extended into the area 
 of the church itself. After the destruction of the abbey, 
 no attention appears to have been paid to its preserva- 
 tion. On the contrary, it was subject to constant 
 dilapidation, not only from the ravages of time, but 
 from the frequent and extensive demolition of the ruins 
 in order to furnish the citizens with materials for build- 
 ing. Accordingly, traces of the carved stones of the 
 abbey are to be found in many old houses in the town. 
 About the year 1806, however, the officers of state laid 
 claim to the remains on behalf of the crown ; and after 
 removing various encroachments made by sundry parties 
 on the abbey precincts, they commenced excavating the 
 ruins down to the original pavement, carefully trans- 
 ferring the remains of the dead deposited in the area of 
 the abbey church, to the adjoining churchyard. In the 
 course of these operations, various objects of antiquity 
 were brought to light, including a beautifully carved 
 truncated statue of Thomas h Becket in his robes of 
 office, and a marble slab supposed to have been the lid 
 of the royal founder's coffin, adorned with the figure of 
 a man in alto relievo, with a lion couchant at his feet. 
 The tomb of the king, who was buried under the steps 
 leading to the high altar, was not discovered. In addi- 
 tion to these excavations, the crown has from time to 
 time executed important repairs of the ruins, with a 
 view to their preservation, under the superintendence of 
 the crown architect for Scotland, acting under the in- 
 structions of the Commissioners of Woods and Forests. 
 The whole area of the church is now cleared out, and 
 the bases of the pillars that supported the roof displayed. 
 The church appears to have been 2*0 feet in length, 
 from the great entrance at the west to the high altar at 
 the east, and 130 feet in breadth, along the transepts ; 
 the nave was 148 feet in length, bv about seventy feet 
 64 
 
 in height, and the choir about seventy-five feet long. 
 The western entrance is tolerably entire, exhibiting the 
 remains of a large circular window above the doorway, 
 which must have thrown a flood of light into the area 
 of the church : but the portions of the tower by which 
 the entrance was flanked are so dilapidated that scarcely 
 any indication of their original style of architecture 
 presents itself. Adjoining the south transept are the 
 remains of a building containing a large vaulted apart- 
 ment in excellent preservation, supposed to have been 
 the chapter-house. The principal remaining tower, 
 locally called the Old St. Thomas, rises to the height of 
 1 12 feet. The cloisters have disappeared ; and the 
 abbot's palace, which, after the abolition of episcopacy 
 in Scotland, was converted into a manse for the parish 
 minister, is now a private residence. 
 
 This important religious establishment occupied an 
 area 1 150 feet in length and about 700 in width, inclosed 
 by a stone wall nearly twenty-four feet in height. At 
 the north-west angle is a tower twenty-four feet square, 
 and seventy feet high, which is still entire ; and at the 
 south-west angle was another, of smaller dimensions, 
 which being ruinous was some time ago taken down. 
 The principal entrance was through a stately gateway- 
 tower on the north side, defended by a portcullis and 
 drawbridge ; and at the south-east angle was a postern 
 of inferior character, called the Darngate, from which 
 the town arms are derived. The abbey buildings are 
 now placed under the care of a resident keeper, appointed 
 by the crown ; and the crowds of visiters to the ruins, 
 especially during the summer months, attest the interest 
 felt by tourists in these venerable remains of our ancient 
 ecclesiastical architecture. The public burying-ground 
 adjacent, which is the only place of sepulture for the 
 town, is tastefully laid out, and, with its numerous 
 monuments of the dead, adds not a little to the feelings 
 of solemnity which a visit to this sacred spot is calcu- 
 lated to inspire. 
 
 ARBUTHNOTT, a parish, in the county of Kin- 
 cardine; adjoining the town of Bervie, and containing 
 1015 inhabitants. The name of this place has under- 
 gone many changes in its pronunciation and spelling. 
 From documents in the possession of the Arbuthnott 
 family it appears that, previously to the twelfth cen- 
 tury, it was called Aberbotkenothe, which form, about 
 the year 1335, had been changed to Aberbuthnot, and, 
 in 1443, to the mode now retained. The original term 
 signifies " the confluence of the water below the baron's 
 house", and is descriptive of the situation of the ancient 
 castle and of the present mansion-house, upon the 
 narrow point of a projection overlooking the Water of 
 Bervie, which is joined by a rapid rivulet, formerly of 
 considerable breadth, about 100 yards distant from the 
 mansion. This parish, in whose early history the Ar- 
 buthnotts have held the most conspicuous place, con- 
 tains an area of 9423 acres, of which 6200 are in tillage, 
 250 in plantations, and 2223 uncultivated. It is inter- 
 sected by the roads from Stonehaven to Brechin, and is 
 bounded on the north by the river Forthy, which sepa- 
 rates it from Glenbervie ; and on the south and west by 
 the Water of Bervie, dividing it from the parishes of 
 Bervie, Fordoun, and Laurencekirk. The surface is 
 irregular, being much diversified by hill and dale. It 
 rises on every side from the valley of the Bervie Water, 
 the windings of which, between steep and richly-wooded
 
 A R B U 
 
 ARDC 
 
 banks, present in many parts interesting and beautiful 
 scenery. In summer the stream is small, and slow in 
 its course, flowing at the rate of about a mile an hour ; 
 but in the rainy seasons it rises rapidly, the flood being 
 considerably augmented through the agricultural drains; 
 and embankments to some extent have been found ne- 
 cessary, to secure the neighbouring lands against the 
 havoc consequent upon its overflowing. The highest 
 land is Bruxiehill, which has an elevation of about 650 
 feet above the sea. 
 
 The SOIL, towards the southern quarter, is a strong 
 clay, with a cold retentive subsoil; and in the direction 
 of the northern boundary, light and dry. There is also 
 some rough wet pasture and moor, but this kind of land 
 has been greatly ameliorated and recovered by recent 
 drainage. The chief crops are grain of different kinds, 
 potatoes, turnips, and beet-root. The parish is alto- 
 gether agricultural, and the cultivation of the soil is 
 carried on with great spirit; the five and the seven 
 years' rotation of crops are each followed, but the latter 
 is thought to succeed the best. Bone-dust has been 
 applied with advantage as manure on light soils, where 
 the turnips are eaten off by the .sheep. Improvements 
 have been vigorously carried on, chiefly consisting of an 
 extensive and efficient drainage of the lands, the culti- 
 vation of much barren soil, and the construction of 
 embankments along the course of the Bervie, for the 
 protection of the fertile haughs through which it runs. 
 The wood planted consists of Scotch fir, larch, spruce, 
 chesnut, poplar, hazel, and almost every species known 
 in the country ; and upwards of twenty different kinds 
 of oak, chiefly American, have been introduced into the 
 nursery by Lord Arbuthnott, with a view to plantation. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £6592. 
 The rocks are mostly coarse sandstone, trap, and what 
 in the country is called scurdy : blocks of gneiss and 
 granite are sometimes to be seen. On the north bank 
 i)f the Bervie, pebbles beautifully varied have been found 
 embedded in trap ; and calcareous spar, heavy spar, and 
 veins of manganese also exist in the parish. In the 
 deepest part of a small peat-bog called the " Hog's 
 Hole", the skeletons of two red deer were lately found, 
 the antlers of whose horns were respectively seven and 
 eight in number, some of them measuring eighteen 
 inches in length. 
 
 Arbuthnott House, the seat of the ancient and noble 
 family of Arbuthnott, is beautifully situated on the 
 Bervie, almost concealed by thriving plantations. It 
 has been greatly improved by the present owner. The 
 grounds are laid out with much taste, and the mansion 
 is approached by a fine avenue of beech-trees, upwards 
 of two centuries old. In the library of his lordship are, 
 the missal used in the parochial church in former times, 
 and the psalter and office belonging to a chapel con- 
 nected with the church, and dedicated to the Virgin 
 Mary ; the penmanship is exceedingly beautiful, and 
 many parts are splendidly illuminated. The castle of 
 Allardyce, also on the bank of the river, and which is 
 the property of the ancient family of Allardyce, has 
 lately been repaired ; and the house of Kair is a modern 
 mansion of neat and elegant appearance. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 
 presbytery of Fordoun, synod of Angus and Mearns ; 
 
 the patronage belongs to Viscount Arbuthnott, and the 
 
 minister's stipend is £225, with a manse, and a glebe 
 
 Vol. I.— 65 
 
 of the annual value of £9. The church, which is situated 
 near the north bank of the river, about three miles dis- 
 tant from the furthest extremity of the parish, though 
 much altered and enlarged, is probably four centuries 
 old, and was in former times dedicated to St. Ternan. 
 An elegant aisle, of finely-hewn ashlar, was added to it 
 on the south-east in 1505, by Sir Robert Arbuthnott, 
 who also repaired and improved the west gable, on which 
 he placed a round tower ; this aisle is the burial-place 
 of the family, and contains a full-length statue, of stone, 
 of Hugh de Arbuthnott. There is a parochial school, 
 the master of which has the maximum salary, with a 
 house and garden, and about £10 fees; and a savings' 
 bank, established in June 1822, is in a prosperous con- 
 dition. The learned Alexander Arbuthnott, first Pro- 
 testant jirincipal of King's College, Aberdeen, was a 
 native of the parish, and some time its minister, to 
 which office he was appointed in 1567; and the well- 
 known Dr. Arbuthnott, physician to Queen Anne, and 
 one of the triumvirate with Pope and Swift, was born 
 here in I667. The place gives the title of Viscount to 
 the family of Arbuthnott. 
 
 ARCHIESTOWN, a village, in the parish of Knock- 
 ANDO, county of Elgin ; containing 174 inhabitants. 
 This is the only village in the parish, and is of modern 
 origin, having been commenced about I76O, by Sir 
 Archibald Grant, the great-grandfather of Sir James 
 Grant, of Monymusk, the present baronet. It is built 
 on the moor of Ballintomb, and consists of a double 
 row of houses, about three-quarters of a mile in length, 
 having a square in the centre, of about half an acre, and 
 some by-lanes. The village suffered severely in 1783, 
 from an accidental fire, but it has latterly recovered from 
 this calamity, and several new houses have been erected 
 very recently. In a preaching station, which accom- 
 modates about 200 persons, divine service is performed 
 once a month, by the minister of the parochial church ; 
 and a few dissenters belonging to the United Presby- 
 terian Church occasionally assemble here. There are 
 schools likewise, which open and close with prayer. 
 
 ARDCHATTAN, a parish, in the district of Lorn, 
 county of Argyll, 8 miles (E. N. E.) from Oban ; con- 
 taining 2421 inhabitants, of whom 960 are in the quoad 
 sacra parish of Muckairn, which is separately described. 
 The place is supposed to have derived its name from 
 Catan, who accompanied St. Columba to Scotland about 
 the year 563, and from its mountainous aspect, of which 
 the term Ardchaltan is descriptive, signifying "the hill" 
 or "promontory of Catan". It obtained for some time 
 the appellation of Bal Mhoadan, or " the residence of 
 Moadan", in honour of whom a church was erected in 
 the vicinity, which afterwards became the church of the 
 parish of Kilmodan. That portion of the parish which 
 is comprehended between Loch Creran and Loch Etive, 
 still retains the name of Beiiderloch, descriptive of a 
 mountainous district between two arras of the sea. The 
 parish is bounded on the north by the river and loch of 
 Creran, on the south and east by Loch Etive and the 
 river and loch of Awe, and on the west by Loch Linnhe. 
 Exclusively of Muckairn, which is not included in those 
 boundaries, it is about forty miles in length, and ten 
 miles in average breadth. The surface is generally 
 mountainous, but diversified with several glens and 
 valleys of considerable extent, some of them richly 
 embellished with wood, and displaying much romantic 
 
 K
 
 ARDC 
 
 ARD C 
 
 scenery ; the level lands are intersected with numerous 
 streams, and the hills of more moderate height are 
 crowne(l with plantations. With the exception of the 
 valley of Glenure and a few other spots, the only arable 
 lands are towards the north and east, beyond which 
 little cultivation is found ; lofty mountains, in various 
 directions, rise so abruptly from the sides of the lochs 
 as to leave little land that can be subjected to the 
 plough. 
 
 Of the mountains, the principal is Ben-Cruachan, the 
 highest in the county, having an elevation of 3669 feet 
 above the sea, and rising from a base more than twenty 
 miles in circumference : the acclivity towards the vale of 
 Glencoe is precipitously steep, but from the south, 
 behind Inverawe, the ascent is more gradual, terminating 
 in two conical summits commanding a most unbounded 
 prospect. Ben-Cochail, to the north of Ben-Cruachan, 
 though little inferior in height, appears much diminished 
 by comparison ; and Ben-S^anie, still further up Loch 
 Etive, rises from a base of large e.vtent, to an elevation 
 of 2500 feet : the acclivities of the latter, of barren 
 aspect, are deeply furrowed ; and in the channels of the 
 streams which descend from it are found beautiful 
 crystals, not much inferior to the cairngorms of the 
 Grampians. Ben-Nan-Aighean, or the " mountain of 
 the heifers", to the south of Ben-Starive, rises to a great 
 height, terminating in a peak of granite ; for about half 
 way up the acclivities it affords tolerable pasture, and is 
 thence rugged and barren to its summit : rock crystals 
 are found near its base, and in the beds of its numerous 
 streams. Ben-Chaorach, or the " mountain of the sheep", 
 near Ben-Starive, is of inferior height, but affords good 
 pasturage. Ben-Ketlan, to the north of it, is of greater 
 elevation, and presents a finer outline, bounded on one 
 side of its base by the Alt-Ketlan stream, and by the 
 Alt-Chaorach on the other ; it is the most fertile of the 
 mountains. Two most conspicuous mountains called 
 Buachail-Etive, or the " keepers of the Etive", situated 
 near the termination of the loch named Etive, are dis- 
 tinguished by the names Buachail-Mor and Buachail-Beg, 
 from the respective extent of their bases, though neither 
 of them has an elevation of less than 3000 feet. Ben- 
 Veedaii, called also Ben-Nambian, or the "mountain of 
 the deer-skins ', from the number of deer which are 
 killed there, is separated from Buachail-Beg by the 
 mountain-pass of Larig-Aodt, a lofty and stupendous 
 range scarcely inferior in elevation to Ben-Cruachan, and 
 whicli opens into the vale of Glencoe. Ben-Treelahan, 
 on the west side of Loch Etive, which washes its base 
 for nearly five miles, and Ben-Starive (already described), 
 on the opposite side, greatly contract the breadth of the 
 loch, and, by their rugged aspect, spread over it a 
 romantic gloom hardly surpassed in mountain scenery. 
 In the north-east of the parish, also, are other moun- 
 tains, of which the principal are Ben-Aulay, the highest 
 of the range; Ben-Scoullard, Ben-Vreck, Ben-Molurgan, 
 and Ben-f'ean. 
 
 Of the numerous glens interspersed between the 
 mountains, is Glen-Noe, about four miles in length and 
 one mile in breadth, inclosed on the north side by Ben- 
 Cruachan, and on the south by Ben-Cochail. It is 
 clothed with rich verdure, and watered throughout by a 
 stream whose banks, as it approaches the sea, are finely 
 wooded. A house has been built near the opening for 
 the residence of the farmer who rents it, than which a 
 66 
 
 more delightful summer retreat can scarcely be imagined. 
 Glen-Kinglas is about nine miles in length and nearly 
 two in breadth, and watered by the river to which it 
 gives name. The north side is rocky and barren, but 
 the south affords excellent pasture. This glen formerly 
 abounded with timber, which was felled for charcoal by 
 an iron-smelting company, about a century since ; so 
 that, with the exception of a few alders on the banks of 
 the river, and some brushwood of little value, it is now- 
 destitute of wood. Glen-Ketlan, inclosed on one side by 
 the mountain of Ben-Ketlan, is about two miles in 
 length, and watered by the river Etive, which enters it 
 about three miles from the head of Loch Etive. Glen- 
 Etive commences at the head of Loch Etive, and is more 
 than sixteen miles in length. It was formerly a royal 
 forest, the hereditary keeper of which claims exemption 
 from certain payments. One portion of the glen, with a 
 contiguous tract in the parish of Glenorchy, has been 
 stocked with red deer by the Marquess of Breadalbane, 
 and another portion of it has been appropriated by Mr. 
 Campbell of Monzie to the same purpose. The whole 
 tract is marked by features of sublimity and grandeur, 
 though stripped of the majestic timber with which it 
 was anciently embellished. Glen-Ure, or the "glen of 
 yew-trees", opens from the river Creran, and expands to 
 the south and east for about three miles. Near the 
 river are the dilapidated remains of the ancient mansion 
 of the family of Glenure, and adjacent is the farm of 
 Barnamuch, which has been always famed for the 
 richness- of its pastures. The remote extremity of the 
 glen is marked with features of rugged grandeur. Glen- 
 Dindal, or Glen-Dow , about seven miles to the west of 
 Glenure, is three miles in length, and in the lower part 
 luxuriantly wooded ; it is frequented by numbers of 
 fallow deer, originally introduced about the middle of 
 the last century. Glen-Salloch, the most elevated of the 
 glens, is situated between Loch Etive and Loch Creran, 
 and extends from south to north for about six miles ; it 
 comprehends much variety of scenery, and the views 
 from any point commanding either of the lakes are 
 romantically picturesque. 
 
 The principal lochs are Loch Etive and Loch Creran. 
 Loch Etive branches from the Linnhe loch near Dun- 
 staffnage Castle, and extends eastward to Bunawe, after 
 which it takes a northern direction among the moun- 
 tains, and terminates at Kinloch Etive. It is about 
 twenty-two miles in length, varying from less than a 
 quarter of a mile to more than a mile and a half in 
 breadth, and being from twenty to 100 fathoms in depth. 
 The bay affords safe anchorage to vessels not exceeding 
 100 tons; and at Connel Ferry, near the western ex- 
 tremity, the tide rises to a height of fourteen feet, form- 
 ing in the narrow channel, which is not more than 
 200 yards in width, and obstructed by a ledge of rock, 
 a foaming and apparently terrific rush of water, which 
 the skill of the boatmen has rendered available to facili- 
 tate the passage. There is another ferry across the loch 
 at Bunawe, opposite to which is the small island of Elan- 
 Duirnish, inhabited only by the family of the ferryman, 
 and connected with the mainland, on the opposite shore, 
 by a stone causeway, along which passes a road that 
 afterwards diverges to Inverary and Glenorchy. Loch 
 Creran issues from the Linnhe loch near the island of 
 Eriska, and extends in a north-eastern direction for 
 about twelve miles, the breadth being on an average a
 
 A RDC 
 
 A R DC 
 
 mile and a half. It is about fifteen fathoms in depth, 
 and the spring tides rise from fifteen to sixteen feet ; 
 the bay, having a clayey bottom, affords good anchorage, 
 and there is a ferry across the loch at Shean, in the nar- 
 rowest part. The loch has several barren and un- 
 inhabited islets ; and the island of Eriska, which is well 
 wooded, contains a considerable portion of pasture and 
 arable land, forming a very compact farm. 
 
 Among the chief rivers is the Jwe, which, issuing 
 from the loch of that name, and flowing between richly- 
 wooded banks, after a course of about four miles, falls 
 into Loch Etive at Bunawe. The Elive, which has its 
 source near Kings-house, in the parish, flows in a 
 western and south-western direction, and gradually ex- 
 panding in its progress, after a course of nearly sixteen 
 miles, falls into Loch Etive near its head. The Kinglas 
 has a course of about twelve miles to the south-west, 
 flowing along a channel of rock and granite ; its waters 
 are remarkably transparent, and salmon are found in 
 numbers. The Liver, which rises to the south of the 
 Kinglas, flows for about six miles in a western direction, 
 and falls into Loch Etive at Inverliver. The ]Voe, which 
 waters the glen of that name, has a course of four miles 
 between rugged mountains, and, near its confluence with 
 Loch Etive, forms a romantic cascade. The Creran, 
 which has its source near Ben-Aulay, flows westward for 
 nearly twelve miles, and after passing through the in- 
 land lake of Fasuacloich, forms a channel navigable for 
 small boats, and falls into the sea at the head of Loch 
 Creran. The Ure has a course of about seven miles in 
 a northern direction, and passing to the west of Glenure 
 House, falls into the Creran river. The Tendal has a 
 western course of about six miles, through the glen of 
 that name, and forms several interesting cascades. The 
 Bute, after a course of little more than three miles, and 
 the Dergan, which rises in the heights of Glen-Salloch, 
 both fall into Loch Creran ; and the Esragan-More and 
 the Esragiin-Beg, separated by the mountain of Ben- 
 Vean, after a course of about five miles, fall into Loch 
 Etive. The rivers generally form in their progress nu- 
 merous cascades, many of which, especially those of the 
 mountainous districts, are incomparably beautiful. 
 
 Though generally a pastoral district, there is still a 
 considerable portion of arable land, estimated at about 
 1700 acres ; the soil is chiefly a light loam, requiring 
 much manure, but producing good crops of oats, bear, 
 potatoes, and turnips. The farm-houses, with very few 
 exceptions, are of an inferior order, thatched with straw, 
 and ill adapted to the accommodation of the occupiers. 
 Great numbers of cattle and sheep are fed in the 
 pastures, and considerable attention is paid to the 
 rearing of stock ; the cattle are of the Highland black 
 breed, and on the dairy-farms the cows are of the 
 Ayrshire breed. The sheep, which were originally of 
 the small white-faced kind, have been almost entirely 
 superseded by the black-faced, and a few of the Cheviot 
 breed have been recently introduced ; the number of 
 sheep reared annually is estimated at 32,000. About 
 2700 acres are woodland and plantations : the coppices 
 are chiefly oak, ash, birch, and mountain-ash ; and the 
 plantations consist of ash, beech, elm, sycamore, and larch, 
 Scotch, and spruce firs, all of which are in a thriving 
 state. The annual value of real property in Ardchattan 
 and Muckairn is £10,987. Lead-ore has been discovered 
 on the farm of Drimvuick, but not wrought ; large 
 67 
 
 boulders of granite are found in abundance, and on the 
 upper shore of Loch Etive a quarry has been opened by 
 the Marquess of Breadalbane, from which blocks are 
 raised of large size, and of very superior quality. The 
 principal mansions in the parish are, Lochnell House, 
 originally built by Sir Duncan Campbell, and improved 
 at an expense of £15,000 by General Campbell, his 
 successor ; Barcaldine House, recently enlarged, and 
 beautifully situated in a richly-wooded demesne ; Ard- 
 chatlan Priory, a portion of the ancient convent, con- 
 verted into a private residence ; Inverawe House, plea- 
 santly situated on the banks of the Awe, and surrounded 
 with stately timber ; and Drimvuick House, a pleasant 
 residence. There is a post-office at Bunawe, about four 
 miles distant from the church ; the mail from Fort- 
 William, likewise, passes through a portion of the parish, 
 and facility of communication is afforded by good roads. 
 A fair for cattle and horses, which is also a statute-fair, 
 is held at Shean Ferry twice in the year. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Lorn and synod of Argyll : 
 the minister's stipend is £283. 3. 2., with a manse, and 
 a glebe valued at £8 per annum ; patron, Archibald 
 Campbell, Esq., of Lochnell. The church, erected in 
 1836, is a neat structure, situated on the north shore of 
 Loch Etive, and containing 430 sittings. There is a 
 preaching station at Inverghiusachaw, in Glen-Etive, 
 about sixteen miles distant from the church, where a 
 missionary supported by the Royal Bounty preaches 
 once in three weeks. A place of worship in connexion 
 with the Free Church has been built. The parochial 
 school is attended by about fifty children ; the master 
 has a salary of £29. 16. 7., including the proceeds of a 
 bequest producing £4. 3. 4., with a house and garden, 
 and the school-fees average about £11 per annum. 
 
 There are some remains of Ardchattan Priory, founded 
 in 1231, by Duncan Mc Coull, the supposed ancestor 
 of the lords of Lorn, for monks of the Benedictine order; 
 the house of the prior has been converted into a re- 
 sidence by Mr. Campbell, the proprietor, and there are 
 traces of the abbey and cloisters, with numerous monu- 
 mental relics. Some remains also exist of the ancient 
 churches of Bal-Moadan and Kilcolmkill. The Castle of 
 Barcaklme, erected in the fifteenth century, by Sir 
 Duncan Campbell, on a neck of land between Loch 
 Creran and the bay of Ardmucknish, is rapidly falling 
 into decay. There are remains of Druidical circles of 
 large granite stones placed on end, and smaller circles 
 of upright stones, on the summits of which latter are 
 slabs of granite ; also stone coffins, in some of which 
 have been found rude urns containing human bones ; 
 and numerous tumuli, in one of which was an urn con- 
 taining calcined bones and an arrow-head of flint. 
 Many ancient coins have been likewise discovered, in- 
 cluding several silver coins of the reign of Edward I., 
 on the reverse of which were the names London, Cam- 
 bridge, and Oxford, in good preservation. The site of 
 the old city of Beregonium, supposed to have been the 
 ancient metropolis of Scotland, and concerning which 
 so many conflicting accounts have been written, and 
 so many fabulous legends propagated by tradition, is re- 
 ferred to an eminence between the ferries of Connel and 
 Shean, called Dun Mac Sniachan, on which are the 
 remains of a vitrified fort. The Rev. Colin Campbell, 
 an eminent mathematician and metaphysician, was mi- 
 
 K2
 
 ARDC 
 
 A RD E 
 
 nister of the parish in 1667. For a description of Muc- 
 kairn, which is not comprised in the foregoing article, 
 see MucKAiRN. 
 
 ARDCLACH, a parish, in the county of Nairn, 
 twelve miles (S. S. W.) from Forres; containing 1177 in- 
 habitants. This place derives its name from its situation 
 in a mountainous and rocky district, of which the Gaelic 
 words are faithfully descriptive. The parish is bounded 
 on the north by the parishes of Auldearn and Nairn, and 
 on the west by the parish of Cawdor ; it is nearly si.xteen 
 miles in extreme length, and twelve miles in extreme 
 breadth. During the wars of the Covenanters, it shared 
 largely in the hostilities of that distracted period ; after 
 the battle of Auldearn, in 1645, the lands here of Brodie 
 of Lethen were plundered by the forces of the Marquess 
 of Montrose, and in 1649 and 16.53 were again desolated, 
 after unsuccessful assaults of Lethen Castle, by the 
 Marquess of Huntly and the troops under the Earl of 
 Glencairn, respectively. The number of acres in the 
 parish is about 40,000, of which nearly 4000 are arable, 
 about ^SOO woodland and plantations, and the remainder 
 hill-pasture, moorland, and waste. The surface is moun- 
 tainous, and some of the hills are considerable ; that 
 called the Shaw has a height of 800 feet, and the hill of 
 Lethenbar of 862 feet, above the level of the sea. The 
 lower lands are watered by numerous springs, and by the 
 river Findhorn, which rises in the mountains of Inver- 
 ness, and flows through the parish in a north-eastern 
 direction into the Moray Firth. In its course it receives 
 many tributary streams from the higher lands, the prin- 
 cipal of which are, the burns of Torgarrow and Altnarie, 
 forming in their descent beautiful cascades j the burns 
 of Drunilochan and Tomnarrach ; and the burn of 
 Lethen, or Muckle-Burn, which flows for nearly ten 
 miles through the parish, and falls into the Findhorn 
 near its mouth. 
 
 The system of agriculture has been greatly im- 
 proved under the liberal encouragement given to 
 his tenants by Mr. Brodie of Lethen, and the rotation 
 plan of husbandry is generally prevalent ; the crops are 
 oats, with other kinds of grain, and various green crops. 
 In the lower lands, the soil is tolerably fertile, and has 
 been benefited by the use of lime ; the mountainous 
 districts afford pasture for cattle and sheep, of which 
 the former are chiefly of small size, but hardy and 
 adapted to the pastures, and the latter have been much 
 improved by a cross with the Lanarkshire breed. The 
 natural wood is mostly Scotch pine, birch, alder, hazel, 
 mountain-ash, and poplar ; and the plantations are prin- 
 cipally larch, interspersed with fir : the wood of Dulcie 
 tbrras an extensive forest of fir, wholly indigenous, and 
 there are ample and thriving plantations at Glenfairness 
 and Lethen. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £23*3. The rocks along the course of the river 
 Findhorn are mainly granite, gneiss, and quartz ; the 
 substratum in the western portion of the parish is the 
 old red sandstone, with some of the schistose formation, 
 in which are found impressions of plants, occasionally 
 resting on a layer of conglomerate, with nodules contain- 
 ing imperfect marine fossils, and which, when burnt, 
 produce excellent lime for agricultural use. The moors 
 aflford black game and grouse, partridges, snipes, wood- 
 cocks, and other birds ; and hares and rabbits are 
 found in great number. The lake on the lands of Lethen 
 called Loch Belivat, which covers an area of twenty-seven 
 68 
 
 acres, abounds with trout of three distinct species, 
 weighing on the average about two pounds each ; and in 
 the centre is an island frequented by aquatic fowl of 
 every kind. Salmon are taken in abundance in the 
 river Findhorn. Coulmony House, the property of Mr. 
 Brodie, is a handsome mansion, beautifully situated on 
 the river. Glenfairness was purchased a few years ago 
 by Mr. Dougal, who has carried out extensive improve- 
 ments, and has built a new and handsome mansion on 
 his estate. 
 
 This parish, which till 17/3 was united to Edenkillie, 
 in the presbytery of Forres, is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Nairn and synod of Moray : the minister's 
 stipend is £248, with a manse, thoroughly repaired in 
 1841, and a glebe of seven acres and a half, valued at £5 
 per annum ; patron, Mr. Brodie. Ardclach church, situ- 
 ated nearly in the centre of the parish, and surrounded 
 with a spacious cemetery, was originally built in 1626, 
 rebuilt in 1762, and again in 1839 at a cost of £500; it 
 contains 686 sittings, and the service is performed alter- 
 nately in the English and Gaelic languages. A place of 
 worship has been erected in connexion with the Free 
 Church. The parochial school affords an ample course 
 of instruction ; the master has a salary of £36. 7- 3., 
 including an allowance of £2 for a garden, with a good 
 dwelling-house, and the fees average from £10 to £15 
 per annum. There are also, a female school for reading, 
 knitting, and sewing, which receives £5 per annum from 
 the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge ; and a 
 school at Fornighty, the master of which has a salary of 
 £15 from the society, and receives £2 from a bequest by 
 Mr. Dunbar, of London. About a mile below the bridge 
 of Dulcie, on the lands of Glenfairness, is an ancient 
 obelisk, on which are rudely sculptured two figures in 
 the Highland costume, supposed to commemorate the 
 fate of a Celtic princess who, eloping with her Danish 
 paramour, was pursued to the hill of Dunearn, on the 
 verge of the river, into which they precipitated them- 
 selves, and perished together. On the summit of the 
 hill of Lethenbar is a very perfect Druidical circle ; and 
 in the neighbourhood are several tumuli. 
 
 ARDEN, a village, in that part of the parish of New 
 MoNKLAND which formed the quoad sacra parish of 
 Clarkston, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; 
 containing 646 inhabitants. It is situated about four 
 miles east of the town of Airdrie, and in the southern 
 portion of the parish. 
 
 ARDERSIER, a parish, in the county of Inver- 
 ness ; containing, with the village of Campbelton proper, 
 and the garrison of Fort-George, 14*5 inhabitants, of 
 whom 716 reside in the village. This parish, called in 
 ancient documents Ardrosser, is supposed to have derived 
 its name from a bold promontory towards the western 
 shore, which rises to a height of 200 feet above the 
 level of the sea. A considerable portion of the lands 
 belonged to the diocese of Ross, and in 1574 was granted, 
 with consent of the dean and chapter, to John Campbell 
 of Calder, ancestor of the present proprietor, Earl Caw- 
 dor, who still pays to the crown an annual sum as 
 bishop's rent. The Knights Templars had also some 
 lands in the parish, over which they possessed a juris- 
 diction of regality ; and the last preceptor. Sir James 
 Sandilauds, obtained from Mary, Queen of Scots, the 
 erection of his estates into a temporal barony, and, in 
 1563, was created Lord Torphichen.
 
 A R D N 
 
 A R D N 
 
 The PARISH, which is bounded on the north and west 
 by the Moray Firth, extends about four miles in length, 
 from north-west to south-east, and is two miles in 
 breadth, comprising 3250 acres, of which 1434 are 
 arable, about 500 in plantations, and the remainder, 
 meadow, pasture, and heath. The surface, with the 
 exception of the high grounds to the west and north, is 
 generally flat, and, towards the coast, low and sandy. 
 In some parts the soil is a deep black mould, in others 
 of lighter quality, and in some places a strong clay, 
 alternated with shallow sand. The usual crops of grain, 
 and large quantities of potatoes, are raised ; the lands 
 have been partly inclosed, and the modern improvements 
 in husbandry are gradually taking place. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £ 1 540. A salmon- 
 fishery on the coast is carried on to a moderate extent, 
 there being two stations, the rents of which together 
 amount to £60 per annum. Ecclesiastically Ardersier 
 is within the bounds of the presbytery of Nairn and 
 synod of Moray : the minister's stipend is £158. 6. *., 
 part of which is paid from the exchequer ; with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £25 per annum : patron. Earl 
 Cawdor. The church, situated in the eastern part of 
 the parish, was built in 1802, and is a neat structure, 
 containing 500 sittings. There are places of worship 
 for the United Presbyterian Synod and members of the 
 Free Church. The parochial school is well attended ; 
 the master has a salary of £36. 7. if., with a house and 
 garden, and the fees average about £20 per annum. 
 
 On the heath near the borders of the adjoining parish 
 of Nairn, is an obelisk supposed to indicate the spot where 
 the Danes were repulsed ; and at Achnuallan were the 
 t-emains of a Druidical circle, near which a horn filled 
 with silver coins was found in ISOO; but those remains 
 have been removed for building materials. At Dalyards, 
 the ruins of a building thought to have belonged to the 
 Knights Templars have disappeared in the progress of 
 agriculture ; and on a hill behind Campbelton is a cir- 
 cular mount 120 yards in diameter at the base, and 
 surrounded towards the summit by a rampart of clay 
 and earth : it was called (in the Gaelic) Cromal, now 
 corrupted into " Cromwell's mount", and has been partly 
 destroyed, like many other fortlets. A Roman sword ; 
 the head of a spear ; and some stone-axes supposed to 
 be of Danish origin, have been found in the parish. 
 
 ARDGOUR. — See Ballichulish. 
 
 ARDNAMURCHAN, a parish, partly in the county 
 of Argyll, and partly in the county of Inverness ; 
 comprising the quoad sacra districts of Aharade and 
 Strontian, and containing 5581 inhabitants. The present 
 parish of Arduamurchan, previously to the Reformation, 
 formed three separate parishes, comprehending the five 
 districts of Ardnamurchan, Sunard or Sunart, Moidart, 
 Arasaig, and South Morir. These districts still remain 
 as distinct portions, and from the first the parish takes 
 its name, signifying " the promontory" or " heights of the 
 great sea". This terra was originally applied with great 
 propriety, the district of Ardnamurchan being nearly a 
 peninsular promontory, extending from the mainland, to 
 a considerable extent, into the waters of the Atlantic 
 Ocean. The districts of Ardnamurchan and Sunart are 
 in the county of Argyll, and the other three districts in 
 Inverness-shire ; the whole being supposed to comprise 
 more than 250,000 acres, of which upwards of 110,000 
 are in the Argyllshire portion. The parish is bounded 
 69 
 
 on the south by Loch Sunart, separating it from the 
 parish of Morvern ; on the south-west, by the northern 
 end of the Sound of Mull ; on the north, by Loch Morir 
 and the river flowing thence, which separate it from 
 North Morir, in the parish of Glenelg ; and on the 
 north-west and west, by that part of the Atlantic Ocean 
 which reaches to the opposite shores of Skye and the 
 Small Isles. On the east it is bounded by the parish of 
 Kilraalie. The coast, which is continuously, and remark- 
 ably, indented with creeks and bays forming numerous 
 points and headlands, is supposed to embrace a line of 
 several hundreds of miles, and exhibits a bold and rocky 
 appearance. At some seasons, the foaming surges of the 
 neighbouring waters are to be seen driven landward by 
 the westerly winds, and occasionally rendering inacces- 
 sible the several creeks and landing-places. The head- 
 land of Ardnamurchan, which is the most western part 
 of the mainland of Great Britain, and the most promi- 
 nent point on the line of coast between Cape Wrath and 
 the Mull of Cantyre, was formerly used as a geographical 
 mark, in respect to which the Western Isles were deno- 
 minated north or south. At a creek on its extreme 
 point, the picture of dreariness and desolation, a few 
 green mounds indicate the place where the mutilated 
 bodies of shipwrecked seamen rest below, vessels having 
 not unfrequently been dashed to pieces on the adjoining 
 rocks. There has been a lighthouse recently built on this 
 point. The whole coast surrounding the district of Ard- 
 namurchan is a series of indentations and projecting 
 rocks. Beyond this, which is the southern part of the 
 parish, the line of coast runs along the Moidart district 
 on the west and north, and then forms the western 
 limit of Arasaig and South Morir, marked with many 
 rocky points and headlands, of which the point of Arasaig, 
 the promontory next in importance to Ardnamurchan, is 
 well known to mariners, and is visited by steamers ply- 
 ing from Glasgow to the Isle of Skye. The coast here 
 is very rugged, but not abrupt or precipitous. It has 
 numerous shelving rocks, extending under water to the 
 northern boundary of the parish. 
 
 A deep and wide bay is formed by the line of shore 
 stretching in an eastern direction from the point of 
 Ardnamurchan to the isthmus of that district, then 
 northward, and afterwards round to the west, reaching 
 to the point of Arasaig. In the south-eastern part of 
 this great bay, at the flexure of the coast of Ardnamur- 
 chan towards Moidart, are the fine sands of Kintra, mea- 
 suring about two square miles in extent, of nearly circular 
 form, and covered at high water by the sea, which enters 
 by a small inlet. The principal harbours along the coast 
 of the parish are, the bay of Glenmore, on the south of 
 Ardnamurchan, in the mouth of Loch Sunart, affording 
 excellent anchorage ; that of Kilchoan, a small harbour 
 on the same coast, forming the chief point of communi- 
 cation with Tobermory ; and, on the north coast of Ard- 
 namurchan, at Ardtoc, a small bay where inferior craft 
 may find a safe retreat. At the island of Shona, north 
 of Kintra bay, also, and in the opening of Loch Moidart, 
 are several creeks with good anchorage, the resort of 
 boats from the southern highlands, in the season for cod- 
 fishing ; and in Loch Sunart are the harbour of Stron- 
 tian, and the creek of Salin, at which latter a pier has 
 been built. Of the several maritime lochs in or bound- 
 ing the parish, some are of considerable extent, and form 
 a distinct feature in the general scenery of the coast.
 
 A R D N 
 
 ARDN 
 
 Loch Sunart branches oflf from the Sound of Mull, where 
 it is about six miles in breadth, and extends inland for 
 about twenty-five miles. The tide runs with much im- 
 petuosity through the channels formed by the islands of 
 Carna, Resga, and Oransay, six or seven miles from the 
 mouth ; but further inland the water lies quietly, with 
 the exception of the ebb and flow of the tides, between 
 lofty rocks and precipitous banks overgrown with wood, 
 which at many points present most picturesque scenery. 
 Loch Moidart is about four miles long, from east to west, 
 and communicates with the open sea by means of a nar- 
 row channel on each side of the island of Shona. Being 
 surrounded with steep and lofty mountains, it is usually 
 unruffled ; and its scenery embraces all the striking fea- 
 tures of a Highland district. The remaining salt-water 
 lochs are Loch-nan-Uamh, situated between Moidart and 
 Arasaig ; Loch Ainart, a branch of the former ; and 
 Loch-na-Keaull, just north of Arasaig point ; all of 
 comparatively small extent. In different parts of the 
 coast there are caves, some of them very extensive, but 
 none of much note : in one at Baradale, in Arasaig, a 
 damp, rough, dark excavation. Prince Charles Stuart 
 concealed himself for three days, after his defeat at 
 Culloden. 
 
 The INTERIOR of the parish, consisting of land of 
 very rugged character, is crowded with the features, 
 variously combined, of almost every description of wild 
 and romantic scenery, comprising lofty mountain ranges, 
 precipitous rocky elevations, thickly-wooded hills, dells, 
 and ravines, with numberless inland lochs, and several 
 rivers. The Ardnamurchan portion is strongly marked 
 by a range of hills, of no great elevation, running from 
 the western point for about twenty-four miles towards 
 the east, and varying from four miles and a half to seven 
 in breadth. Near the coast are many farms under good 
 cultivation, within the first ten or twelve miles ; but 
 afterwards the pasture becomes coarser. Oak, birch, 
 and hazel are to be seen covering the rocks, and the 
 lower hills on the south, to Loch Sunart ; while, on the 
 north, the district is occupied at its eastern extremity by 
 a very extensive moss, girt by the river Shiel. This 
 stream flows from Loch Shiel, and falls into the western 
 ocean, forming one of the two principal streams in the 
 parish, the other of which flows from Loch Morir into 
 the western sea, and constitutes part of the northern 
 boundary of the parish. The Sunard or Sunart district, 
 in some ancient records written Swynefort or Swyni- 
 ford, is supposed to have derived its appellation from 
 the circumstance of a king of Denmark named Swin, 
 who was driven from his own country for apostatizing 
 from Christianity, having in the tenth century landed 
 in a creek here on the western shore, called Swiueard in 
 consequence of that event. This tract is a continuation 
 of that of Ardnamurchan, and is about twenty-five miles 
 long and ten in average breadth. For several miles from 
 its commencement, it has the appearance of a mountain 
 ridge. After this the eminences expand, reaching to Loch 
 Sunart on the south and Loch Shiel on the north and 
 north-west, leaving a large intermediate space occupied 
 with lofty hills and deep valleys and glens, thrown 
 together in apparently the greatest irregularity and con- 
 fusion. The most lofty mountains are Ben-Reisipoll, 
 Scur-Dhoniel, Scour-Choinich, Creach-Bhunn, and 
 Glaschoirein Hill, reaching respectively 266 1 feet, ^"SO 
 feet, 2364 feet, 2439 feet, and 1920 feet in height. The 
 70 
 
 district contains two extensive and interesting valleys, 
 of which that of Strontian, near its eastern extremity, 
 opening at Loch Sunart, stretches for about five miles 
 inland. It is ornamented in succession from its en- 
 trance with clusters of fine natural oak, flourishing 
 plantations surrounding a tasteful mansion with well 
 laid out grounds, an excellent and well-cultivated farm, 
 with the crofts and tenements of numerous cottagers, 
 the government church near the stream that runs 
 through the valley, and, further on, the beautifully- 
 situated manse. Glenaheurich, a few miles north of the 
 former valley, contains a spacious lake, and affords ex- 
 cellent pasturage for sheep. Besides these there are 
 other glens of inferior dimensions, bounded with pictu- 
 resque hills displaying a profusion of verdure and orna- 
 mental wood. The district of Moidart takes its name 
 from a compound Gaelic term signifying " the height of 
 sea-spray ". It extends about ten or twelve miles in 
 breadth ; and twenty-five in length, in a direction 
 parallel with Sunart, along the whole boundary of Loch 
 Shiel. It is bounded on the west and north by the sea ; 
 and the continuous range of mountains along the coast 
 on each side, incloses an intermediate and lofty ridge, 
 exhibiting a summit with a most magnificent assemblage 
 of crags, rocks, hills, and ravines, rendered more in- 
 teresting to the curious observer by the almost im- 
 possible attempt to find their parallel. There are, how- 
 ever, some tolerably fertile plains in this interesting dis- 
 trict of the parish ; and a valley called Glenaladale, about 
 three hundred yards broad, containing fair arable and 
 pasture land. The districts of Arasaig and South Morir, 
 not separated from each other by any marked natural 
 features, constitute together a tract twenty-four miles in 
 length, and fifteen broad. A long and very dreary valley 
 named Glenmeuble stretches along Arasaig for ten miles, 
 with a farm at the eastern end, and a small loch called 
 Beoraig, not very far off. South Morir is bounded on 
 the north by Loch Morir, and the river that flows from 
 the loch into the sea. 
 
 The parish contains numerous fresh- water lakes, many 
 of which abound with varieties of excellent trout. The 
 principal of them is Loch Shiel, which here separates 
 the county of Argyll from that of Inverness, and is 
 embosomed amid mountains of the most magnificent 
 description, very little known to travellers. Near the 
 western extremity of this lake is the beautiful green 
 island of Finnan, truly an oasis in the bleak wilderness, 
 where the remains of an ancient monastery are still very 
 distinct, and where the bell that used to summon the 
 inmates to matins and vespers is yet to be seen. Loch 
 Shiel empties itself by the river Shiel into the western 
 sea ; and so trifling is the fall in the course of this 
 stream that, during high tides, boats of six or seven 
 tons' burthen can ascend it, and are often seen spread- 
 ing their sails at the eastern extremity of the lake, 
 twenty-seven or twenty-eight miles from the sea. An 
 important salmon-fishery is carried on at the river Shiel, 
 one of the most important indeed in the north of Scot- 
 land, paying a large rental. The fish caught here are 
 of a superior quality, and are exported in great quanti- 
 ties to the India and other distant markets, being pre- 
 pared for exportation in a large curing establishment 
 lately built on the river-side. 
 
 The SOIL is various, but generally light and shallow. 
 Only a small portion of it is fit for superior husbandry j
 
 A RDN 
 
 A RD N 
 
 the remainder is moor and moss, of which latter there 
 are several large tracts styled moss-flats, especially adja- 
 cent to Loch Shiel. That called the Moss of Kintra 
 covers an area of seven square miles, and, like some of 
 the others, is a quagmire in the middle, of unknown 
 depth, though considerable portions near the margin 
 are capable of improvement. Oats and bear are raised ; 
 but potatoes, hay, wool, and the cuttings of wood, form 
 the largest items in the returns of produce. The 
 sheep that are kept are the black-faced ; and the cattle, 
 the Argyllshire : both the sheep and the cattle are 
 generally of a superior description, the pasture in many 
 parts being admirably adapted for them. The method 
 of cultivation varies according to the nature of the soil, 
 and the locality ; ploughs and spades of all kinds are in 
 common use, and shell-sand mixed with kelp, and 
 various deposits from the sea-shore, are extensively em- 
 ployed as manure. Considerable improvements have 
 been made on some of the estates within these few years, 
 and the farm-buildings of the superior tenants are good, 
 whilst those of the inferior class are of the worst descrip- 
 tion. There are several farms tilled according to the 
 most improved system of agriculture. The extent of 
 arable land in the Ardnamurchan and Sunart districts 
 is upwards of 5000 acres, about half turned by the 
 plough, and half by the spade ; and it is supposed that 
 the quantity throughout the parish might be doubled 
 with a profitable application of capital, there being in 
 these two districts alone about 13,000 acres of pasture, 
 more than 3000 of moss, and upwards of 80,000 of 
 moor, much of which is capable of tillage. An agricul- 
 tural association, principally connected with Ardna- 
 murchan and Sunart, and some neighbouring places, 
 meets annually at Strontian ; under the auspices of 
 which great improvement has taken place in the breed 
 of horses, black-cattle, and sheep. The annual value of 
 real property iu the parish is £6894. The geological 
 structure of the parish is of great interest, presenting 
 one of the most inviting fields in Scotland to the student 
 of geology. The natural wood is of considerable ex- 
 tent, including much oak, valuable for its bark and 
 timber, birch, hazel, alder, and ash : the plantations in 
 the parish comprise fir, plane, oak, and ash trees. 
 There are various mansion-houses of proprietors, gene- 
 rally plain comfortable buildings suited to the climate, 
 and those more recently erected shewing a due regard 
 to ornament. The population is rural, and scattered 
 through the different districts. Some of the inhabitants 
 are engaged in salmon-fishing on the river Shiel, and 
 others in taking herrings on some of the lochs. 
 Indeed the whole sea-coast abounds with a variety of 
 fish, especially cod, ling, sethe, lythe, gurnet, flounder ; 
 while lobsters, oysters, and the smaller kinds of shell- 
 fish, are also plentiful ; though the apathy and ignorance 
 of the people prevent their availing themselves to any 
 great extent of this bountiful provision made for their 
 wants. Two decked-vessels belong to the place, one of 
 fifty and the other of twenty tons. An extensive manu- 
 factory of bobbins for thread is carried on at Salen, on 
 Loch Sunart ; the machinery is very ingenious, and 
 moved by immense power, the water-wheel being forty 
 feet in diameter. There is a post-office at Strontian, 
 with a daily post ; also one at Arasaig, with a delivery 
 three times a week ; and a third at Kilchoan, com- 
 municating with Strontian by a messenger twice a 
 71 
 
 week. A road runs from Arasaig, by Glenfinnan, to 
 Fort-WiUiam and the Caledonian canal, and another 
 from Strontian to Corran Ferry, by each of which cattle 
 and sheep are driven to the southern markets. The 
 principal communication, however, is by steam-vessels 
 from Glasgow, which touch at the point of Arasaig, and 
 at Tobermory, a sea-port in the northern extremity of 
 the island of Mull, about five miles south from the har- 
 bour of Kilchoan, in Ardnamurchan. A fair is held at 
 Strontian in May, and another in October, for cattle and 
 sheep : there is also a cattle and sheep fair at Arasaig. 
 
 The parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of 
 Mull, synod of Argyll, and for pastoral purposes is dis- 
 tributed into five portions, namely, the parish church 
 district, two quoad sacra parishes, a district under the 
 care of a missionary, and another under that of an 
 assistant. The first of these embraces the western por- 
 tion of the peninsula of Ardnamurchan, and contains a 
 place of worship at Kilchoan, on the south, four or five 
 miles from the point, and one at Kilmorie, on the 
 northern coast, at which the minister officiates alter- 
 nately. Kilchoan church, which, on account of its 
 situation, commands the larger attendance, is a very 
 superior edifice, built in 1831, and accommodating more 
 than 600 persons ; that of Kilmorie, raised by a former 
 incumbent, is a very humble structure, originally built of 
 dry stone, and thatched. The minister has a stipend of 
 about £270, subject to a deduction to the assistant ; with 
 a manse, and a glebe of twenty-seven acres, valued at £10 
 or £1^2 per annum: patron, the Duke of Argyll. The 
 quoad sacra church at Strontian is thirty miles distant 
 from the parish church ; that at Aharacle is situated 
 at the west end of Loch Shiel, twenty-three miles dis- 
 tant. The mission of Laga comprehends about eleven 
 miles of the coast of Loch Sunart, partly in the parish 
 church district, and partly in that of Aharacle ; the 
 minister receives £60 per annum from the Royal Bounty, 
 and has built a preaching-house at his own expense. 
 The district of the assistant is by far the largest eccle- 
 siastical division, embracing the principal part of 
 Moidart, and the whole of Arasaig and South Morir. It 
 has a small preaching-house, built partly by subscrip- 
 tion, at Polnish, near Inveraylort, and a school-house at 
 Ardnafuaran, in Arasaig. The assistant receives from 
 the parish minister £.55. 11. 1., and £32 from the Royal 
 Bounty, with £5 for communion elements. There are 
 five Roman Catholic chapels in the parish, with two 
 officiating priests. The parochial school, situated at 
 Kilchoan, aflfords the ordinary instruction ; the master 
 has a salary of £25. 13. 3., and £10 fees, with a house, 
 garden, and two acres of land, the whole valued at £7. 
 There are two schools attached to the quoad sacra 
 parishes of Aharacle and Strontian, erected by Sir 
 J. M. Riddell, Bart., and endowed by government; 
 while in other parts of the parish are schools supported 
 by various religious societies. The chief relic of an- 
 tiquity is the castle of Mingary, on the southern shore 
 of Ardnamurchan, once the stronghold of Mac Ian, from 
 which James IV. in 1493 granted a charter, and where, 
 two years afterwards, he held his court to receive the 
 submission of the nobles of the forfeited lordship of the 
 Isles. The parish contains several vitrified forts. On 
 the plain of Glenfinnan is a tower erected in commemo- 
 ration of the events of 1745, by Alexander McDonald 
 of Glenaladale, with an inscription by Dr. Donald
 
 A RD R 
 
 A RD R 
 
 Mc Lean ; the successor to the property, Angus 
 Me Donald, Esq., has lately much improved the tower, 
 and crowned it with a statue of Prince Charles Stuart. 
 
 ARDOCH, for a time a quoad sacra parish, com- 
 prising the hamlets of Balhaddie, Buttergask, Green- 
 loaning, and Rottearn, in the parish of Dunblane; the 
 thriving post-village of Braco, in the parish of Mithill ; 
 and part of the parish of Blackford, in the county of 
 Perth; the whole containing 1584 inhabitants. The 
 parish was about seven miles in length by six in breadth, 
 and intersected by the high road from Crieff to Dunblane 
 and Stirling ; two-thirds of the soil are in tillage or 
 pasture, and the remainder, with the exception of a 
 portion under plantation, is uncultivated. Great facilities 
 of communication are afforded by the Scottish Central 
 railway. At Rottearn is a small manufactory for con- 
 verting potatoes into flour. Fairs are held at Braco on 
 the first Wednesday in January, the last Tuesday in 
 April, and the first Tuesday in August, chiefly for cattle. 
 The district is in the presbytery of Auchterarder, synod 
 of Perth and Stirling ; the minister is under the juris- 
 diction of the ministers of Dunblane and Muthill, and 
 has a manse and garden. The church, or chapel of 
 ease, erected by subscription in 1*80, is a plain edifice, 
 and contains 555 sittings. The United Presbyterian 
 Synod and the Free Church have places of worship also 
 in the district : that for the latter body is a handsome 
 structure with a tower and spire, and contains sittings 
 for 700 persons. There is a school for the benefit of all 
 denominations, and a library is supported. Near the 
 village is the most entire Roman camp that remains in 
 Scotland. — See Muthill. 
 
 ARDRISSAIG, a village, in the parish of South 
 Knapdale, county of Argyll ; containing about 400 
 inhabitants. This village, which is situated at the 
 harbour of Ardrissaig in Loch Gilp, has sprung up since 
 the commencement of the Crinan canal, in 1793, and is 
 of respectable appearance. It is the scene of much 
 bustle and traffic, occasioned by the convenience of its 
 harbour, at the opening of the canal into Loch Gilp. 
 Exclusive of the business in goods and passengers con- 
 nected with the canal, it is computed that about 24,000 
 persons are landed and taken ou board annually, besides 
 large numbers of sheep and cattle, by the Glasgow 
 steam-vessels, three of which in summer, and one in 
 winter, arrive here daily. In the harbour is a slip and 
 steam-boat pier, erected in 1S37, at an expense of more 
 than £1000 ; and independently of the boats belonging 
 to the parish, forty or fifty in number, many others, 
 making together above 100, are frequently in the har- 
 bour in the fishing season, herrings being taken in Loch 
 Fine (of which Loch Gilp is a branch) in very large 
 numbers. In her visit to Scotland in 1847, Her Majesty 
 and the royal party landed at Ardrissaig in the month of 
 August, and proceeded along the Crinan canal in a barge 
 which had been prepared for their reception, rejoining 
 the royal squadron at the other extremity of the canal. 
 Her Majesty also returned to England by way of the 
 Crinan line of navigation, in the month of September. 
 The revenue of the canal is scarcely sufficient to defray 
 the cost of maintaining it. One of the parochial schools 
 is established here. 
 
 ARDROSSAN, a parish, in the district of Cunning- 
 HAME, county of Ayr; including the thriving sea-port 
 town of Ardrossan, and the greater part of Saltcoats. 
 72 
 
 seventy-four miles (W. S. W.) from Edinburgh ; and con- 
 taining 4947 inhabitants. This place derives its name, 
 of Celtic origin, from the situation of its ancient baronial 
 castle on a small promontory. Little is known of its 
 earlier history ; and of its ancient proprietors not much 
 further notice occurs than that Sir Fergus de Ardrossan 
 accompanied Edward Bruce in his expedition into 
 Ireland, in 1316, and was one of the Scottish barons who 
 in 1320 signed a memorial to the pope, complaining of 
 the aggressions of Edward I. of England. During the 
 time of Baliol, the castle being occupied by the English, 
 was surprised and taken by William Wallace, who, 
 arriving in the night with some of his followers, set fire 
 to the few houses situated around the base of the hill on 
 which it stood ; and on the garrison going out to ex- 
 tinguish the flames, the assailants rushed into the castle, 
 made themselves masters of the gates, and put all the 
 English to the sword, as they unsuspectingly returned. 
 The castle appears to have been inhabited till the time 
 of Cromwell, who is said to have thrown down its walls, 
 and to have not only demolished it, but carried away the 
 materials for the erection of the fort which he built at Ayr. 
 On the death of the last Baron Ardrossan without issue 
 male, the estate passed, by marriage with his heiress, to 
 the Montgomerie family, its present proprietors. 
 
 The TOWN is beautifully situated on the shore of the 
 Firth of Clyde, and owes its rise to the fostering patron- 
 age of the late Earl of Eglinton, by whom it was origi- 
 nally built, and by whom the harbour to which it is so 
 much indebted was originally constructed, chiefly at his 
 own expense. Ardrossan is rapidly increasing in im- 
 portance. It consists of various spacious and regu- 
 larly-formed streets, intersecting each other at right 
 angles, and containing houses uniformly and handsomely 
 built ; the town is lighted with gas, and is supplied with 
 excellent water by means of cast-iron pipes, which are 
 laid down from a reservoir fed by a small stream called 
 the Stanley burn. It is much frequented, during the 
 season, as a watering-place. Lodging-houses have been 
 built for the reception of the company who resort hither 
 for bathing ; and a large hotel has been erected, con- 
 taining ten public rooms, and a proportionate number of 
 sleeping-rooms, with hot and cold baths. The public 
 baths, for which a handsome building was raised, were 
 originally established on the tontine principle by the late 
 Earl of Eglinton, after whose decease in ISIQ they were 
 suspended for a time, till in 1833 they were purchased 
 by the present proprietor, by whom the buildings have 
 been enlarged, and put into a state of complete repair. 
 The baths are of marble, with convenient dressing-rooms 
 attached to each ; they are under excellent management, 
 and hot, cold, shower, and vapour baths are prepared 
 on the shortest notice. Connected with the establish- 
 ment are numerous lodging-rooms, which are fully 
 occupied during the season ; there is also a bath gratui- 
 tously appropriated to the use of the poor. In the im- 
 mediate neighbourhood of the town are several villas, 
 pleasantly situated, commanding good views of the 
 Firth ; and around the margin of the bay a crescent has 
 been laid out, forming a splendid addition to the ap- 
 pearance of the town. The Pavilion, the marine villa of 
 the Earl of Eglinton, is an elegant seat, occasionally the 
 residence of his lordship. There are many agreeable 
 walks in the environs, and between this and Saltcoats is 
 a fine sandy beach, about three-quarters of a mile in
 
 A R D R 
 
 A RD R 
 
 length, which is a favourite promenade. In the year 
 1846 an act of parliament was passed for erecting the 
 town and places adjacent into a burgh of barony ; for 
 paving, lighting, and cleansing the same; and esta- 
 blishing a police. There are about sixty looms in the 
 town, employed in the weaving of shawls and heavier 
 articles, and lighter articles of silk and cotton ; and in 
 Saltcoats nearly 450 : many of the females are also en- 
 gaged in working muslin. Fairs are held in July, and 
 on the fourth Thursday in November, for cattle and 
 various kinds of merchandise. 
 
 The HARBOUR was projected by the late Earl of 
 Eglinton, in the beginning of the present century, with a 
 view to accommodate the shipping belonging to the 
 Firth of Clyde. At that time, the river Clyde had not 
 been deepened, and only the smallest class of coasters 
 could reach Glasgow. The accommodation at Greenock 
 and Port-Glasgow was limited, and as the trade of the 
 city of Glasgow was rapidly increasing, it was very pro- 
 bable that a safe and commodious harbour at the mouth 
 of the Firth of Clyde, with a proper communication to 
 Glasgow, would confer a great benefit on the manufac- 
 turing and commercial interests of the west of Scotland, 
 and command a large return upon the capital required 
 for the construction of the necessary works. Lord 
 Eglinton was strongly impressed with this opinion, and 
 through his influence and exertions two companies were 
 organized, one for the construction of a tide-harbour 
 and wet- dock at Ardrossan, and the other for the con- 
 struction of a canal from Glasgow, by Paisley and 
 Johnstone, to the proposed harbour. The acts incorpo- 
 rating these two companies were obtained in 1805 and 
 IS06, and the works were commenced immediately after. 
 In a very short time, however, it was found that the 
 capital subscribed for the two undertakings would be far 
 short of what was necessary for their completion. The 
 canal was only completed to Johnstone, when the funds 
 were exhausted, and the canal company stopped the 
 further progres.s of the works. The same result would 
 have followed the deficiency in the harbour company's 
 capital, had it not been for the public spirit of Lord 
 Eglinton, who took the whole responsibility upon him- 
 self, and C(mtinued to prosecute the works until his death 
 in 1819. At that period the tide-harbour was opened, 
 and the wet-dock nearly completed ; the whole outlay 
 then amounting to upwards of £100,000. But though 
 the works were thus far advanced, there was little pros- 
 pect of the canal ever being finished, and as the harbours 
 of Greenock and Glasgow were by this time greatly im- 
 proved, it was deemed imprudent by the trustees left in 
 charge of the harbour to lay more money out upon it. 
 An attempt was made in 18'27, to carry out the original 
 plans by forming a railway from Ardrossan to Johnstone, 
 to join the canal there : an act was obtained, but the line 
 was only constructed to Kilwinning, six miles from 
 Ardrossan, with a branch of four miles more to the 
 Eglinton coal-fields. In 1840 the communication was 
 finally opened by the construction of the Glasgow and 
 Ayrshire railway, which passes through Kilwinning, and 
 there joins the Ardrossan line. About this time, the 
 harbour proprietors addressed the present Earl of Eglin- 
 ton, requesting him to take the harbour into his own 
 hands, and complete it ; to which his lordship acceded. 
 An act was accordingly passed in 1842, vesting the 
 works in Lord Eglinton, on his paying the other share- 
 VoL. I.— 73 
 
 holders the value of their shares ; the works were again 
 commenced in 1844, and were completed the following 
 year. In 1846 an act was passed authorising the con- 
 struction of the Glasgow, Kilmarnock, and Ardrossan 
 railway, to commence at the Neilston end of the Glasgow 
 and Neilston railway, and to form a junction with the 
 Ardrossan line. The same act gave power to purchase 
 the Ardrossan railway and harbour, for which the new 
 company engaged to pay £208,000 in three yearly in- 
 stalments ; and in 1849 an act was obtained for enlarging 
 the provisions of the acts relating to the harbour, and 
 the Glasgow, Kilmarnock, and Ardrossan railway. 
 
 The harbour is perfectly sate, and easily taken in every 
 wind : no damage has ever been occasioned in it during 
 the heaviest storms, and vessels have been known to 
 quit their moorings in other ports in severe gales, and 
 run to Ardrossan for shelter. The entrance bears East 
 I North magnetic, and is shewn at night by two red 
 guiding lights : the most conspicuous landmark is a 
 tower on the Horse island, whose latitude is 55° 58' 40" 
 N., and longitude 4° 50' 23" W. The depth of water in 
 the dock is nineteen feet at neap, and twenty-two feet at 
 spring tides ; it is capable of accommodating forty 
 square-rigged vessels, and the harbour can accommodate 
 about eighty of the same class. It has been in contem- 
 plation, also, to extend the piers into deeper water, so as 
 to inclose a greater area, of such depth that the largest 
 vessels might be afloat at low water. The arrangements 
 for loading and unloading are very complete ; the rail- 
 way is carried along every part of the quay walls, and 
 the trucks can be taken directly alongside the vessels. 
 The facilities thus afforded for transmitting goods, con- 
 joined with the great natural advantages of Ardrossan, 
 will no doubt be the means of realizing the anticipations 
 of the noble proprietor, and making the place one of the 
 most thriving sea-ports in the west of Scotland. The 
 export trade consists principally of iron and coal from 
 the mineral fields in the neighbourhood, and general 
 goods from Glasgow : the chief imports are, timber from 
 America ; corn, cattle, and provisions from Ireland ; and 
 goods from the manufacturing districts of England. 
 Before the opening of complete railway communication 
 between Scotland and England, steamers used to sail 
 four times a week from Ardrossan to Fleetwood, in 
 Lancashire, furnishing the most rapid communication 
 between Paisley, Greenock, Glasgow, Edinburgh, &c., 
 in Scotland, and Preston, Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds, 
 Birmingham, and London. These steamers were sup- 
 posed to be the fastest then afloat, and plied in connexion 
 with the railway trains to Ardrossan and to Fleetwood. 
 Passengers were repeatedly taken in rather less than 
 twenty-four hours from London to Glasgow, and twenty- 
 six hours from London to Edinburgh, by this route. 
 Steam-boat communication is maintained with Belfast, 
 &c. An excellent graving-dock, here, is capable of 
 admitting vessels of 1200 tons' register, and there is a 
 patent-slip which can take on vessels of 800 tons' 
 register : these afford the most ample facilities for re- 
 pairing vessels. Ship-building is carried on to a con- 
 siderable extent, and vessels of every description and 
 size have been built, which bear a very high character. 
 There is a large saw-mill on the harbour grounds. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the south and south-west 
 by the Firth of Clyde, and comprises about 7000 acres, 
 of which 1580 are arable, 3000 meadow and pasture.
 
 A R D R 
 
 A RG Y 
 
 2270 hilly pasture, and about 190 woodland and plan- 
 tations. It3 surface is agreeably diversified with tracts 
 of level land, and gentle undulations rising into hills of 
 different elevation, which increase in height towards the 
 coast. The highest of the hills is called Knock- Georgan, 
 and is 700 feet above the sea, commanding a rich 
 prospect ; of the others, only one has an elevation of 
 400 feet. Several of them are ornamented with clumps of 
 trees, and add much to the beauty of the scenery. The 
 shore is generally level, and indented with bays of 
 various dimensions, of which that of Ardrossan is very 
 picturesque ; it is about three-quarters of a mile in 
 length, and to the north of it is another fine bay, of 
 larger size ; the coast here becomes rocky and irregular, 
 and ridges of shelving rocks extend for a considerable 
 length. Nearly opposite the harbour, and about a mile 
 from the shore, is Horse Isle, containing about twelve 
 acres : on this isle a beacon tower was erected by the 
 late Earl of Eglinton for the benefit of vessels ap- 
 proaching the harbour, and it has been in contemplation 
 to convert the tower into a light-house. The chief 
 rivulets are, the Stanley and Monfode burns, which 
 descend from the higher lands, and after flowing through 
 the parish, fall into the Firth ; and the Munnock or 
 Caddel burn, a more copious stream, which intersects 
 the upper part of the parish, and falls into the river 
 Caaf, which separates the parish from that of Dairy. 
 
 The SOIL, towards the coast, is light and sandy, and 
 in the higher grounds a tenacious clay, occasionally in- 
 termixed with loam. It has been rendered generally 
 fertile by long cultivation, and a judicious use of sea- 
 weed and lime. The principal crops are oats, wheat, 
 potatoes, and turnips. The system of agriculture is in 
 a very advanced state ; the lands are well drained and 
 inclosed, and great improvements have been made, and 
 much unprofitable land reclaimed, under the auspices of 
 the Agricultural Society, which holds its meetings here 
 in November. Great attention is paid to the manage- 
 ment of the dairies; and about 10,000 stone of cheese 
 of good quality are annually produced, which supply the 
 neighbouring markets : the cows are generally of the 
 Cunninghame or Ayrshire breed. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £11,7/5. The substrata 
 are limestone, freestone, and coal. The last was formerly 
 wrought in the northern part of the parish, and in the 
 vicinity of Saltcoats, but the workings have been for 
 some time discontinued. There are three limestone- 
 quarries in the upper part of the parish. The freestone 
 is found both of a red and white colour, and there is an 
 extensive quarry of the former close to the town of 
 Ardrossan, from which the stone was raised for building 
 the town and forming the quay. Near the town are 
 also various kinds of whinstone, of which whole rocks 
 have been blasted with gunpowder, and used in the for- 
 mation of the breakwater. There are several strata of 
 ironstone near the pubhc baths, varying from two inches 
 to nearly five feet in thickness, but from their situation, 
 the working of them has not been thought likely to 
 repay the expense. A variety of fossil shells is found in 
 several parts, and it is generally supposed that the sea 
 has considerably receded from this part of the coast. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Irvine 
 
 and synod of Glasgow and Ayr : the minister's stipend 
 
 is £261. 1. 3., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per 
 
 annum ; patron, the Earl of Eglinton. The old church, 
 
 74 
 
 which was situated on the Castle-hill, at Ardrossan, was 
 destroyed by a storm in I691, and another erected on a 
 site about half a mile further from the coast. This 
 church, also, being so much shaken by a storm, in 1*73, 
 as to be considered unsafe, was taken down, and the 
 present church built, in the town of Saltcoats, in 1774; 
 it is a substantial edifice, adapted for a congregation of 
 840 persons. Another church connected with the Esta- 
 blishment was built in 1844, in Arran place, Ardrossan; it 
 is a handsome edifice in the pointed style, and ornamental 
 to the town. There are places of worship for dissenters 
 in Ardrossan and Saltcoats. The parochial school, 
 situated in Saltcoats, is well conducted ; the master has 
 a salary of £34. 4. 4., and £25 from fees, with a house 
 and garden. Of the ancient castle of Ardrossan some 
 small fragments only are remaining. Upon the lands of 
 Monfode are the remains of a baronial castle, much 
 dilapidated, formerly the residence of a family of that 
 name. On Knock-Georgan are the remains of a Danish 
 camp ; and on one of the other hills in the parish is an 
 artificial mound of rectangular form, sixteen yards long, 
 nine yards wide, and the same in height, with sloping 
 banks ; concerning which nothing authentic is recorded. 
 Dr. Robert Simson, professor of mathematics in the uni- 
 versity of Glasgow, was a heritor of this parish, where 
 he was accustomed to reside during the vacations, on his 
 estate of Knockewart. 
 
 ARGYLLSHIRE, a maritime county, in the south- 
 west of Scotland, bounded on the north by Inverness- 
 shire ; on the east by the counties of Inverness, Perth, 
 and Dumbarton ; and on the south and west by the 
 Firth of Clyde and the Atlantic Ocean. It lies between 
 55° 21' and 57° (N. lat.), and 4° 15' and 7° 10' (W.long.), 
 and is about 115 miles in extreme length, and about 
 50 or 60 miles in average breadth ; comprising an 
 area, including the various islands connected with it, 
 of about 3800 square miles ; of which, what may be 
 considered as the continent contains about 2735 square 
 miles, or 1,750,400 acres. There are 19,207 houses, of 
 which 18,552 are inhabited ; and a population of 97,371, 
 of whom 47,795 are males, and 49,576 females. The 
 county appears to have been occupied at an early period 
 chiefly by the Scots, who, emigrating from the Irish 
 coasts, settled in the peninsula of Cantyre, and after the 
 subjugation of the Picts, and the union of the two king- 
 doms under Kenneth Mc Alpine, became identified with 
 the general population of the country. In the legends 
 of romance, this part of Scotland is celebrated as the 
 principal scene of the exploits of the heroes of the race 
 of Fingal, and as the birthplace of the bard Ossian, 
 whose poems are still the subject of deeply-interesting 
 research among the learned. Ossian is said to have 
 been boru in the valley of Glencoe ; and the county, 
 which abounds with numerous localities connected with 
 the achievements of his heroes, stiU retains, in a very 
 high degree, that spirit of feudal vassalage for which it 
 was for ages pre-eminently remarkable. The family of 
 Campbell, long distinguished as the principal of that 
 extensive and powerful clan, and ancestors of the Dukes 
 of Argyll, for many generations possessed an absolute 
 and sovereign authority over their vassals, who on every 
 occasion rallied round the standard of their chieftain, 
 with all the fideUty of kindred attachment, and tendered 
 the most arduous services with implicit submission to 
 his control.
 
 A R G Y 
 
 A R G Y 
 
 Prior to the ReformatioD, the county was for centuries 
 the seat of a diocese, the bishop of which resided on 
 the island of Lismore (between the main land and the 
 isle of Mull), where the cathedral church was situated ; 
 and the jurisdiction extended over all the adjacent 
 islands, including those of Bute and Arran. Since that 
 period, it has constituted the chief part of the synod of 
 Argyll, comprising the presbyteries of Inverary, Dunoon, 
 Cantyre, Islay and Jura, Lorn, and Mull ; and about 
 fifty parishes. For civil purposes, the county is divided 
 into the districts of Argyll, Cowal, Islay, Cantyre, 
 Lorn, and Mull ; and is under the jurisdiction of a 
 sheriff-depute, by whom three sheriifs-substitute are ap- 
 pointed, who reside respectively at Inverary, which is 
 the county town, at Campbelltown, and Tobermory. 
 The courts of assize and general quarter-sessions are 
 held at Inverary ; and courts for the recovery of small 
 debts are held four times in the year at Oban, Loch- 
 gilphead, Dunoon, and Bowmore; and twice in the year 
 at Strontian. The royal burghs are Inverary and Camp- 
 belltown ; and in addition to the other places above 
 noticed, the county contains the small towns of Balli- 
 chulish and Tobermory, the village of Ardrissaig, &c. 
 Under the act of the 2nd 'of William IV., the county 
 returns one member to the imperial parliament ; and 
 the royal burghs of Inverary and Campbelltown, with 
 the parliamentary burgh of Oban, unite with Ayr and 
 Irvine, in the county of Ayr, in returning another 
 member. 
 
 The SURFACE is generally wild and mountainous, es- 
 pecially towards the north, where it borders on the 
 Grampian range ; and even along the coasts, which form 
 a line of more than 600 miles, and where the land is 
 lowest, there are numerous hills of very considerable 
 elevation. The most mountainous parts of the county 
 are, however, interspersed with pleasing and fertile 
 tracts of valley, watered by streams, on the banks of 
 which are some productive arable lands ; and in many 
 places the slopes of the hills afford good pasture. Of 
 the numerous Islands that are included within the limits 
 of the county, the principal are Mull, Jura, Islay, 
 Coll, Tiree, Colonsay, Lismore, and Oronsay, with 
 smaller islands, all of which are noticed under their 
 respective heads. Between these islands and the main 
 land are several e.xtensive sounds, the principal of which 
 are, the Sound of Mull, between the island of that name 
 and the main land ; and the Sound of Jura, separating 
 that island from the continent : the Sound of Islay is 
 between the isles of Jura and Islay, and the Firth of 
 Clyde separates part of Argyllshire on the west from the 
 counties of Ayr and Renfrew on the east. The most 
 prominent Mountains are, the Cruachan, rising from the 
 north-eastern extremity of Loch Awe, to the height of 
 3390 feet ; the Cruachlus.sa, in the district of Knapdale, 
 attaining an elevation of 3000 feet ; Benreisipoll, in 
 Ardnamurchan, 2661 feet in height; Buchael-Etive, 
 near Loch Etive, towards the north, rising 2537 feet 
 above the sea ; the Paps of Jura, in the isle of Jura, 
 2476 feet in height; and Beininturk, in Cantyre, which 
 has an elevation of 2170 feet. 
 
 The coasts arc deeply indented with arms of the sea, 
 constituting salt-water lochs of considerable extent. 
 Among these is Loch Fine, which is of very great depth, 
 sixty miles in length, and varying from two to three 
 miles in breadth, and on the shore of which is situated 
 75 
 
 the. town of Inverary : its great depth is thought to be 
 one cause of the superior quality of its herrings. Loch 
 Linnhe lies between the districts of Morven and Lorn, 
 and is the source of most of the inland lakes which 
 form the Caledonian canal ; the scenery on both its 
 shores is strikingly romantic, and the borders are 
 thickly interspersed with the remains of ancient for- 
 tresses, and enlivened with numerous handsome re- 
 sidences. Loch Long extends from the Firth of Clyde, 
 for nearly twenty-two miles, into the land, separating 
 the county from that of Dumbarton ; and from the 
 west side of this arm of the sea branches off Loch God, 
 crowned on its precipitous banks with the ruins of Castle 
 Carrick, a royal residence, of which His Grace the Duke 
 of Argyll is hereditary keeper. Of the inland lakes 
 of the county, by far the most extensive is Loch Awe, 
 about twenty-eight miles in length, and from one to 
 two miles in breadth ; it abounds with salmon, eels, and 
 trout, and from one side of it issues a stream called 
 the Awe, which flows through the magnificent pass of 
 Brander into the Loch Etive, at Bunawe ferry. The 
 pass of Brander, which was the scene of a battle be- 
 tween Robert Bruce and Mac Dougall of Lorn, seems 
 to have been formed by some violent convulsion, causing 
 the rare circumstance in nature of a lateral escape of 
 water from a lake. Loch Etive, a lake of much smaller 
 extent, communicates with Loch Awe by the river Awe, 
 and on the west with the Sound of Mull, from which it 
 forms an inlet, nearly opposite the island of Lismore : 
 on the north shore are the ruins of the ancient priory 
 of Ardchattan. There are several smaller lakes, but 
 none of sufficient importance to require particular no- 
 tice ; also numerous streams intersecting the lands in 
 various places, few or none of which, however, are 
 navigable. 
 
 The quantity of land which is arable and in cultiva- 
 tion is little more than 100,000 acres ; about 30,000 
 acres are in woodland and plantations, and the remain- 
 der, nearly 1,300,000 acres, with the exception of about 
 25,000 in inland lakes and rivers, is principally heath, 
 and hill and mountain pasture. The soil of the arable 
 land is extremely various. Along the coasts, it is gene- 
 rally a light gravelly loam, resting upon a clayey bottom, 
 and differing in fertility in different places. On the 
 lower grounds, in some parts, is a mixture of clayey 
 loam ; in others, a kind of black mossy earth ; and on 
 the slopes of the hills, a light gravelly soil. The .system 
 of agriculture is moderately improved, and the rotation 
 plan of husbandry is growing into use. The chief crops 
 are oats, bear, and potatoes, with peas and beans, and 
 various green crops ; the cultivation of turnips has been 
 extensively introduced. Wheat of excellent quality has 
 been raised, but though the soil in many parts is favour- 
 able to its growth, very little attention is paid to its 
 culture. Flax, for domestic use, is raised in consider- 
 able quantities. The cattle are principally of the black 
 West Highland breed, and, being in much demand, on 
 account of the superior beef they afford, are reared to a 
 great extent throughout the county, especially in the 
 islands : next to sheep, they form the staple trade of the 
 county. The sheep-farms are in general very extensive, 
 and the stock is principally of the Linton or black-faced 
 breed, though the Cheviot breed, which has been lately 
 introduced in some places, has been found equally well 
 adapted to the pastures, and more profitable. 
 
 L2
 
 A R M A 
 
 A RNG 
 
 The chief Substrata are, limestone, which is very 
 abundant, and freestone of various kinds and colours, 
 some fine specimens of which are found in Cantyre, 
 and also in Glenorchy. Slate is abundant in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Easdale, and is also wrought in the district 
 of Appin. Near Inverary is a kind of granite which is 
 susceptible of a high polish, resembling spotted marble ; 
 and there are quarries of marble in Lorn, on the estate 
 of Lochiel, and in the island of Tiree, which last is of very 
 beautiful quality. Coal is found near Canipbelltown, 
 and is wrought for the supply of that district ; there 
 are also indications of coal in Morven, and in the isle 
 of Mull. Lead-ore has been wrought at Strontian, and 
 found in other places ; a copper-mine has been opened 
 in the parish of Kilmalie, and there are numerous ves- 
 tiges of ancient iron-works in the mountains, though 
 no ore of sufficient quality to remunerate the expense 
 of working it is now found. The greater portion of the 
 county was formerly covered with Wuuds, of which but 
 very small remains now exist : the deficiency has been 
 partly supplied by modern plantations, especially on the 
 lands of the Duke of Argyll. The soil and climate are 
 well adapted to the growth of timber of every kind : 
 the most flourishing descriptions at present are oak, 
 beech, elm, plane, birch, ash, chesnut, larch, and Scotch, 
 spruce, and silver firs ; and within the last few years 
 plantations have been gradually increasing. The prin- 
 cipal manufacture is that of wool, which has been made 
 into carpets, under the auspices of the Duke of Argyll j 
 but it is limited to a very small extent. The spinning 
 of flax is carried on, for domestic use. There are se- 
 veral distilleries, tanneries, and some bleach-fields ; and 
 the herring-fishery in Loch Fine is on an extensive 
 scale. Facility of intercourse has been obtained by the 
 formation of roads in various directions, and canals ; 
 and from the inlets from the sea, every advantage of 
 steam navigation is obtained. The annual value of real 
 property in the county is £26Q,273, of which £232,441 
 are returned for lands, £25,362 for houses, £1430 for 
 fisheries, and the remainder for other species of real 
 property. There are numerous remains of ancient cas- 
 tles, forts, Danish encampments, monasteries and other 
 religious houses, cairns, tumuli, Druidical remains, 
 vitrified forts, many Fingalian relics, and other monu- 
 ments of antiquity, all of which are noticed in the 
 articles on the several localities where they occur. The 
 county confers the title of Duke on the celebrated 
 family of Campbell, who were created Earls of Argyll 
 in 1457, advanced to the Marquessate in 1641, and 
 made Dukes in 1/01, and who also bear several dignities 
 named after different divisions of the county. 
 
 ARINANGOUR, a village, in the island of Coll, 
 parish of Tiree and Coll, county of Argyll j con- 
 taining about 170 inhabitants. This place, which is 
 situated about the middle of the island of Coll, contains 
 the only harbour of any note in that portion of the 
 parish. It has a pier, and is considered a safe retreat for 
 shipping, but has the disadvantage of a rocky entrance. 
 ARMADALE, a village, in the parish of Bathgate, 
 county of Linlithgow, 2 miles (W.) from Bathgate ; 
 lontaining 121 inhabitants. It derives its name from 
 an estate in the vicinity, which once belonged to a 
 senator in the college of justice whose title was Lord 
 Armadale, being taken from the estate. The road from 
 Linlithgow to Whitburn runs through the village, and 
 76 
 
 it is also situated on one of the great roads between 
 Edinburgh and Glasgow, from which cities it is nearly 
 equidistant. The population is employed in agriculture, 
 and in the mines and quarries of the neighbourhood. 
 
 ARNGASK, a parish, in the counties of Fife, Kin- 
 ross, and Perth, 6 miles (N. N. E) from Kinross; 
 containing, with the villages of Damhead and Duncrivie, 
 750 inhabitants. This parish constitutes a portion of 
 the Ochil hills, and is situated around the junction of 
 the counties of Perth, Fife, and Kinross, at Damhead. 
 It is nearly of a circular figure, and extends in length 
 four miles from east to west, and about three from north 
 to south, comprising 61 16 acres, of which 4590 are 
 arable, 1291 uncultivated, and the remainder plantations, 
 formed chiefly within the last thirty or forty years. 
 The surface is in general hilly, consisting of numerous 
 undulations and smooth round eminences varying from 
 600 to 800 feet in height above the level of the sea. 
 Some of them are picturesque and well-wooded, and 
 among the many points commanding extensive and 
 interesting views, that of Cairn-Geddes, a part of the 
 laads of Fordel, is especially worthy of notice, as afiFord- 
 ing a diversified and magnificent prospect embracing 
 the Firth of Tay, the Carse of Gowrie, the Sidlaw hills, 
 the upper portion of Strathearn, and a large section of 
 the Grampians. The Farg, a fine trout- stream much 
 frequented by anglers, rising near the western boundary, 
 separates the parish for more than a mile from that of 
 Forgandenny, and divides, in its onward course till it 
 reaches Damhead, the counties of Perth and Kinross ; 
 after which it runs between the counties of Perth and 
 Fife, till it departs from this locality, in about the centre 
 of the celebrated and romantic glen to which it gives its 
 name. 
 
 The uncultivated part of the land contains large tracts 
 of a moorish or heathy soil ; but the soil which prevails 
 in other portions is mostly a good black loamy earth, 
 partially formed from the decomposition of the trap or 
 wbinstone rocks, and, though light and shallow in some 
 places, is generally rich. It produces abundant crops, 
 consisting of the ordinary sorts of grain (including 
 wheat), peas, potatoes, turnips, and grass for hay. In 
 consequence of the introduction of bone manure, turnip 
 husbandry has within these few years been greatly ex- 
 tended, the root being eaten off the ground by the 
 sheep, to the decided advantage of the soil. The parish 
 contains four mills for grinding corn, and twenty-two 
 for threshing, twenty of which are worked by horses, one 
 by steam, and the other by water. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £4394, of which £1909 
 are for the Fife portion, £1344 for the Kinross portion, 
 and £1141 for that in Perthshire. 
 
 Duncrivie village is pleasantly situated at the southern 
 extremity of the parish : and Damhead lies in the vale 
 through which passes the great north road from Edin- 
 burgh to Aberdeen : it has a post-office, established in 
 1838, in connexion with Kinross on the south, and 
 Bridge of Earn on the north. About eight hand-looms 
 are in operation, and there is a saw-mill worked by 
 water. Cattle-fairs are held at Damhead on the last 
 Tuesday in April (O. S.), the first Thursday in August, 
 and the first Tuesday in October ; there is also a cattle- 
 market which has been held from time immemorial at 
 Lustielaw, on the third Tuesday in May (O. S.). Eccle- 
 siastically the parish is in the presbytery of Perth,
 
 A R RO 
 
 A R RO 
 
 synod of Perth and Stirling, and in the joint patronage 
 of Mrs. Wardlaw, and Robert Low, Esq., of Fordels ; 
 the minister's stipend is £1*8. 19. 10., with a manse 
 and offices, built in 1829, and a glebe valued at £9. 13. 4. 
 per annum. The church, which is pleasantly and con- 
 veniently situated, is a plain substantial edifice ; it was 
 built in 1806, and contained '240 sittings previously to 
 1821, at which period 140 additional sittings were ob- 
 tained by the erection of galleries. The parochial school 
 affords instruction in Latin and Greek, in addition to 
 the usual branches ; the master has a salary of £34, in- 
 cluding allowance for garden, besides £26 fees. 
 
 ARNPRIOR, a hamlet, in the parish of Kippen, 
 county of Perth ; containing 96 inhabitants. It is 
 situated to the south of the river Forth, and had an- 
 ciently a castle, of which the remains may be traced. — 
 See KippEN. 
 
 ARNTULLY, county of Perth. — See Airntully. 
 
 ARNYFOUL, a hamlet, in the parish of Glammis, 
 county of Forfar ; containing 73 inhabitants. 
 
 ARRAN, an island, in the county of Bute ; com- 
 prising the parishes of Kilbride and Kilmory, and con- 
 taining 6241 inhabitants. This island, called Glotta 
 Astuarium by the Romans, is situated in the Firth of 
 Clyde, between the coast of Ayrshire, which is on the 
 east, distant about thirteen miles, and Cantyre, in Ar- 
 gyllshire, lying to the west, and distant about six miles. 
 It is of an oval form, indented by bays, and extending 
 thirty miles in length, and fifteen in its greatest breadth. 
 The surface throughout is rugged and mountainous, 
 and intersected with mossy glens, whence streams, 
 flowing from the heights, make their course to the sea. 
 Arran is highly interesting to the geologist, on account 
 of its presenting, within a narrow space, an epitome of 
 the whole geological structure of Scotland ; while its 
 pathless glens and picturesque hills commend it equally 
 to visiters in general. There are several safe and com- 
 modious harbours, of which that of Lamlash, on the 
 east side, will afford good anchorage to several hundred 
 vessels ; and the Cock of Arran, on the northern extre- 
 mity, is a well-known landmark. The higher parts of 
 the island are rocky and sterile, and generally covered 
 with fern and heath; but in the valleys, and in the 
 vicinity of the lakes, which are five in number, the soil 
 is moderately fertile, though not well cultivated. Coal 
 and limestone are said to exist ; freestone, ironstone, 
 and marble are abundant, and jasper has been found on 
 Goat-Fell, a hill above 3000 feet in height. There are 
 several cairns, some remains of Druidical edifices, ruins 
 of ancient fortresses, and some natural caves remark- 
 able for their great extent ; and various places exhibit 
 marks of volcanic fire. Arran is the property of the 
 Duke of Hamilton, and gives the title of Earl to his 
 grace. — See Kilbride, and Kilmory. 
 
 ARROCHAR, a parish, in the county of Dumbar- 
 ton, 22 miles (N. N. W.) from Dumbarton, and 22 
 (E. S. E.) from Inverary ; containing 580 inhabitants. 
 The name of this place, which at different times has 
 been variously spelt, is derived from a Gaelic term sig- 
 nifying " high" or " hilly", in reference to the nature of 
 the ground. The parish is remarkable for the magnifi- 
 cence of its scenery, and is much resorted to by tourists 
 on account of the peculiar and numerous attractions 
 which it presents, as well as from the excellence of the 
 inns, the good order of the roads, and other advantages. 
 
 Arrochar was disjoined from the parish of Luss in !6.58. 
 It is about fifteen miles long and three broad, and con- 
 tains 31,000 acres ; including two farms named Ardleish 
 and Doune, which lie on the east side of Loch Lomond, 
 and occupy the north-eastern extremity of the parish, 
 almost separated from the main portion by the lake. 
 The parish is bounded on the north by the parish of 
 Strathfillan, in Perthshire ; on the south by the water 
 of Douglass, and part of the parish of Luss ; on the east, 
 by Loch Lomond ; and on the west, by Loch Long, and 
 part of Argyllshire. The surface is altogether hilly and 
 mountainous. It has about fourteen miles of coast 
 bounding Loch Lomond, and a coast of three miles ex- 
 tending along Loch Long : on the Lomond side, the 
 shore is flat and sandy, and diversified by numerous 
 bays and headlands. The mountain of Ben-Vorlich, 
 clothed with rich pasture, is the most elevated in the 
 parish, rising 3000 feet above the sea ; it is frequented 
 by white hares, ptarmigan, and various kinds of wild 
 fowl. There are four rivers, none of which are of large 
 size ; viz., the Falloch, the Inveruglass, the Douglass, 
 and the Linnhe, the three first of them running into 
 Loch Lomond, and the last into Loch Long. Loch 
 Lomond, which is twenty-four miles long, in some parts 
 seven broad, and varies in depth from sixty to 100 
 fathoms, abounds with bold and romantic scenery, and 
 is considered the finest sheet of water throughout the 
 country. It contains salmon, trout, pike, perch, eels, 
 and also powans, generally called fresh-water herrings. 
 Loch Long is about twenty-one miles in length and one 
 and a half or two in breadth ; its depth is from ten to 
 twenty fathoms. The fish found in it are halibut, soles, 
 flounders, whitings, skate, lythe, sethe, cod, salmon, 
 trout, herrings, &c. Its banks in some parts exhibit 
 fine picturesque breaks, especially at the opening of 
 Loch Goil ; and towards its head the scenery is equal 
 to any part of Lomond. There are some beautiful cas- 
 cades in the parish. 
 
 The SOIL, except in some districts, is thin and poor, 
 and only about 300 or 400 acres are arable ; a con- 
 siderable number of acres are under wood, and on the 
 shores of Loch Lomond are large plantations of oak, 
 which are annually thinned ; the remaining land con- 
 sists of indifferent pasture. The sheep are the black- 
 faced, and the cattle comprise both the native breed 
 and those introduced from Argyllshire. Some waste, 
 to the extent of about fifty acres, has been reclaimed 
 within these few years. The inclosures and farm-build- 
 ings generally are in an indifferent state. The rocks 
 consist for the most part of mica slate ; in some parts 
 are traces of iron-ore, and there are two whinstone 
 quarries near the whinstone dyke between Lochs Lo- 
 mond and Long. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £3096. 
 
 The parish contains two small villages ; in addition 
 to which, a considerable number of houses have been 
 erected within the last few years for sea-bathing visiters. 
 Among the inns is one which ranks with the most com- 
 modious and excellent in Scotland, and which, before 
 being converted to its present use, was the mansion of 
 the chief of the Macfarlane clan. During the summer 
 months, a coach runs daily from Inverary to Tarbet in 
 the morning, and returns in the afternoon ; and vehicles 
 of every description may be obtained at the inns of 
 Tarbet and Arrochar, to which visiters come from all
 
 A SHK 
 
 A SH K 
 
 parts to view the scenery in the neighbourhood of the 
 lakes. Steam-boats run on Loch Lomond and Loch 
 Long from May till October. Another plies between 
 Arrochar and Glasgow ; and ships with coal and lime 
 from Glasgow and Ireland frequently come to the head 
 of Loch Long, whence, also, wool is often sent to the 
 market of Liverpool. A herring-fishery is carried on 
 in Loch Long, with considerable profit, during the 
 mouths of June and July, the boats afterwards proceed- 
 ing successively to Loch Fine and the neighbourhood of 
 Campbelltown, where they fish to the end of the season. 
 Each boat contains about three men, and produces in 
 the season from £30 to £60. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of Glasgow and 
 Ayr ; the patronage belongs to Sir James Colquhoun, 
 Bart., and the minister's stipend is £241, with a glebe 
 worth £13 a year, and a manse erected in 183*. The 
 church, situated in a corner of the parish, was built in 
 1733, and is in indifferent repair; it contains 300 
 sittings. A place of worship has been erected in con- 
 nexion with the Free Church. There is a parochial 
 school, in which the ordinary branches of education are 
 taught ; the master has the maximum salary of £34. 4., 
 with £8 fees, and a house. Another school, privately 
 endowed, affords instruction in the classics, mathema- 
 tics, and the other usual subjects ; the master receives 
 £25 from the resident proprietor of land^and about £15 
 or £20 fees. 
 
 ARTHURLEE, CROSS, a village, in the former 
 quoad sacra parish of Barrhead, parish of Neilston, 
 Upper ward of the county of Renfrew ; containing 
 663 inhabitants. This place owes its origin to the es- 
 tablishment of a bleachfield in its vicinity, by a gentle- 
 man named Adair, about the year 1773. It was chosen 
 by him as a most suitable situation for works of this 
 nature, and his example having been followed by others, 
 the neighbourhood has since become a considerable 
 bleaching district. The village is situated in the north- 
 eastern part of the parish, and not far distant from the 
 village of Barrhead. 
 
 ARTHURLEE, WEST, a village, in the parish of 
 Neilston, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 5 
 a mile (W.) from the village of Barrhead ; containing 
 441 inhabitants. This village, which is situated a little 
 to the west of the road between Neilston and Barrhead, 
 owes its origin to the introduction of the cotton manu- 
 facture, and is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in 
 the bleaching and printing establishments connected 
 with that trade. 
 
 ASHKIRK, a parish, partly in the county of Sel- 
 kirk, but chiefly in the district of Hawick, county of 
 Roxburgh, 6 miles (S.) from Selkirk ; containing 563 
 inhabitants. The name of this place is said to have 
 been derived from the great number of ash-trees with 
 which the neighbourhood abounded, and of which a 
 considerable number is still remaining. Ashkirk was 
 formerly part of the see of Glasgow, and the occasional 
 residence of the bishops, who had a palace here, some 
 slight vestiges of which might lately be traced in a field 
 retaining the name of Palace Walls. The parish is 
 about seven miles in length, and three miles and a half 
 in breadth, comprising about 3000 acres under cultiva- 
 tion, 400 in woods and plantations, and a considerable 
 portion of waste. The surface is generally hilly, with 
 78 
 
 tracts of level land in the intervals between the hills and 
 the narrow valley of the Ale. The Ale has its source in 
 the lakes of Alemoor and Shaws, and flowing through 
 the parish in a direction from west to east, divides it 
 into two nearly equal portions ; it abounds with trout of 
 excellent quality, and a few sea-trout and small salmon 
 are occasionally taken in it after floods. There were 
 formerly numerous lakes in the parish, but from the 
 practice of draining the lands, many of them have dis- 
 appeared. The principal now remaining are, Essenside 
 loch, covering about twenty acres of ground ; and the 
 Sheilswood loch and Headshaw loch, both of which are 
 of smaller dimensions : they all abound with perch, 
 pike, and trout ; and afford good sport to the angler. 
 Synton Moss, once a very extensive lake, has been com- 
 pletely drained for the sake of obtaining the marl and 
 peat with which it abounded, and which have been suc- 
 cessfully applied to the improvement of the lands. In 
 this moss, many interesting organic remains are occa- 
 sionally dug up. 
 
 The soil is generally light, in some places clay mixed 
 with gravel, and in others a rich loam ; the chief crops 
 being oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips. The sys- 
 tem of agriculture is improved, and the farm-houses are 
 tolerable, but the cottages are in general very wretched. 
 Some few dairy-farms are managed with great care, and 
 the butter produced here is of excellent quality. Con- 
 siderable attention is paid to the rearing of live stock, 
 upon which the main dependence is placed : the sheep 
 are almost exclusively of the Cheviot breed, with occa- 
 sionally a mixture of the Cheviot and the Leicestershire ; 
 and the cattle are of the short-horned breed, which are 
 found to be the best adapted to the lands. A few 
 Highland cattle are pastured here during the winter. 
 There appears to have been formerly a great abundance 
 of natural wood, but very little ancient timber at pre- 
 sent remains : the plantations are larch, spruce, and 
 Scotch firs, intermixed with oak, ash, elm, and other 
 forest-trees ; they are all of modern formation, and are 
 in a thriving state. The annual value of real property 
 in the Roxburgh portion of the parish is £3483, and in 
 the Selkirk portion, £1510. The rocks belong to the 
 transition series, and consist almost entirely of grey- 
 wacke with a basis of clay-slate : the general direction 
 of the stratification is from south-west to north-east. 
 
 The parish is in the presbytery of Selkirk and synod 
 of Merse and Teviotdale : the minister's stipend is 
 £205. 12. 9., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £28 
 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Minto. Ashkirk church, 
 erected in 1791, is a plain substantial edifice adapted 
 for about 200 persons. A place of worship has been 
 erected in connexion with the Free Church. The 
 parochial school is attended by about 80 children ; the 
 master's salary is the maximum, with about £16 fees, 
 and a house and garden. There are remains of two 
 Danish encampments on the lands of Castleside, one of 
 which is in good preservation, but the other is almost 
 obliterated by the plough. On the lands of Salineside 
 was formerly a very strong tower, of which there are 
 scarcely more than some slight vestiges; and in various 
 parts of the parish are remains of ancient encampments. 
 The farm of Whitsled, in the parish, is the scene of the 
 popular and very ancient Scottish song " The Ewe- 
 buchts" : the "merry knows" mentioned in the song 
 still retain the name.
 
 ASSY 
 
 ATHE 
 
 ASSYNT, a parish, in the county of Sutherland, 
 30 miles (N. W. by W.) from Dornoch ; containing, 
 with the former quoad sacra district of Stoer, and the 
 village of Lochinver, 3178 inhabitants. This place is 
 supposed to take its name from its irregular boundary 
 line, the Gaelic term, as agus innle, signifying "out and 
 in". It was once a forest of the ancient Thanes of 
 Sutherland, one of whom gave it in vassalage to Mac-Kry- 
 Cul, who held that part of the coast of Coigach after- 
 wards called the village of Ullapool, as a reward for his 
 having recovered a great number of cattle that had been 
 carried off from the county of Sutherland by the Scandi- 
 navians, who had also burnt the great fir forests on this 
 and the neighbouring coast. Mac-Kry-Cul's family 
 being reduced by the disasters of war to one heir female, 
 she was given in marriage to a younger son of McLeod, 
 laird of Lewis, with the consent of the Thane of Suther- 
 land, who made this parish over to the newly-married 
 couple, with its superiority. After this event, there 
 were fourteen successive lairds of the name of McLeod. 
 About 1660, the parish and its superiority became the 
 property of the Earl of Seaforth, from whom it passed 
 to a younger son of his family, whose successors pos- 
 sessed it for three or four generations ; and it was after- 
 wards purchased by Lady Strathnaver, who presented it 
 to her grandson, William, Earl of Sutherland, from whom 
 it has descended to the present Duke of Sutherland. 
 
 The extreme length of the parish is about thirty-six 
 miles, and its greatest breadth eighteen ; containing an 
 area of 97,000 acres. It is situated in the north-west 
 part of the county, and divided on the north from the 
 parish of Eddrachillis, in the Reay country, by an arm 
 of the sea called the Kyle : on the west it is bounded by 
 the Atlantic Ocean. The coast, which is about thirty 
 miles in extent, is bold, rocky, and dangerous, and has 
 several extensive and interesting caves ; but in some 
 places there is a fine sandy bottom, with safe landing. 
 Attached to the parish are numerous islands, some of 
 which are merely bare rocks affording neither pasture 
 nor shelter : the most considerable is Oldney, which is 
 about a mile long and a quarter of a mile wide, and is 
 used for the pasturage of sheep ; the other islands are 
 Crona, Soya, and Klett. The appearance of the district 
 is altogether wild and mountainous, and its scenery ro- 
 mantic ; the most remarkable heights are Benmore, 
 Cuniack, Suilvhen, and Cannisb, of which Benmore, the 
 highest mountain, rises about 3230 feet above the level 
 of the sea. The hills, also, are very numerous, and 
 most of them abound with springs of excellent water. 
 There are several fine lakes, among which that of Assynt 
 is pre-eminent : it is seven miles and a half long, and 
 about a mile broad, with banks in most places covered 
 with brushwood ; it abounds in trout, and is distin- 
 guished for its striking and singularly picturesque 
 scenery. 
 
 The principal part of the parish is employed in sheep- 
 farming, to which much attention is paid. The larger 
 number of the population dwell along the shores, and 
 avail themselves of the advantages offered for fishing, 
 from which, together with their small allotments of land, 
 they draw their subsistence. Game is plentiful. There 
 is some sandst(me rock, but limestone is the prevailing 
 formation, of which an immense ridge on the Strou- 
 chrubie farm extends about a mile and a half, overhang- 
 ing the public road, being mantled in many places with 
 79 
 
 ivy, and forming a covert for birds of prey. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £1212. The vil- 
 lage of Lochinver has several good houses and shops, 
 and near it is a manufactory for preserving butcher's 
 meat, fish, and vegetables, fresh, for the purpose of being 
 carried out to sea ; there is a post-office here, and ano- 
 ther near the church. Excellent roads have been formed, 
 to the extent of forty miles, as well as numerous roads 
 for local use. At Lochinver is a small harbour with a 
 pier, and several creeks afford shelter and anchorage. 
 There are two small fisheries let at a moderate rent, and 
 one or two vessels belong to Assynt, besides which, seve- 
 ral come in the herring season to fish on the coasts, and 
 a few to take away the disposable produce of the parish, 
 which consists chiefly of wool. An annual cattle-fair 
 has been established at Inchnadaff. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dornoch and synod of Sutherland and 
 Caithness ; the Duke of Sutherland is patron, and the 
 stipend of the minister is £1.58. 6. 8., with a glebe worth 
 about £36 per annum, and a manse. The church, a small 
 building seating about 280 persons, is inconveniently 
 situated nine miles from the southern boundary of the 
 parish, the great bulk of the population residing at dis- 
 tances of from twelve to eighteen miles ; it was built 
 about sixty or seventy years since, and has been exten- 
 sively repaired. There are two preaching stations, one 
 at Lochinver, fourteen miles from the church, and the 
 other at Kyle side, nearly the same distance, the services 
 of which are performed by the parochial minister. At 
 Stoer is a government church, built in 1829. A place of 
 worship has been erected in the parish in connexion with 
 the Free Church. Here is a parochial school, the mas- 
 ter of which receives a salary of £34 ; and several other 
 schools are supported by general societies for promoting 
 education. Among the antiquities are, Ardvrack Castle, 
 built by the Mc Leods about the year 1.590, and now in 
 ruins ; Calda House, erected by the Mc Kenzies ; and a 
 large Druidical temple. 
 
 ATHELSTANEFORD, a parish, in the county of 
 Haddington, 3 miles (N. E. by N.) from Haddington, 
 and 9 (W.) from Dunbar; containing 991 inhabitants, 
 of whom 274 are in the village. This place, which is 
 noticed by Camden, is said to have derived its name 
 from Athelstan, an English warrior, who was killed in 
 battle together with the greater number of his forces, 
 about the commencement of the ninth century, and was 
 interred here. The parish is about four miles in length 
 and three in breadth, and bounded on the north by the 
 streamlet of the West Peffer. Its surface is abruptly irre- 
 gular, consisting of large tracts of low land, and elevated 
 ridges of rock sloping in some places gently towards the 
 plain, and in others forming a nearly horizontal level of 
 considerable height. The scenery is greatly diversified, 
 affording in parts a striking contrast of richly cultivated 
 fields and barren and rugged rocks. From the higher 
 grounds are obtained extensive and interesting views of 
 the Firth of Forth, the Bass rock, and the county of Fife. 
 The lands are watered by the two branches of the Peffer 
 stream, which rises in a meadow in the lowlands : the 
 East Peffer joins the sea below Tynninghame bay; 
 whilst the West Peffer, flowing westward, falls into 
 Aberlady bay. The channel of the Peffer was widened, 
 and made deeper, some years since, on which occasion 
 several stags' horns were found, at a depth of nearly
 
 A THE 
 
 AUCH 
 
 three feet below the surface of its bed, and large oaks 
 were discovered embedded in moss on the banks, which, 
 previously to the practice of draining the lands, were 
 nearly covered with the water that stagnated on the ad- 
 joining woodlands. 
 
 The number of acres in the parish has been estimated 
 at more than 4000, of which nearly 3S00 are arable, and 
 the remainder, with the exception of about fifty acres of 
 hilly pasture, are in woods and plantations. The soil 
 has been much improved by draining, and great quanti- 
 ties of marshy and unprofitable land have been rendered 
 fertile ; the chief crops are, wheat, for which the soil is 
 extremely favourable, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips. 
 A considerable number of sheep are reared, and fed prin- 
 cipally on turnips. The substrata are mostly whinstone 
 and porphyry, of which the rocks consist : coal is sup- 
 posed to exist, but it lies at so great a depth from the 
 surface that none has yet been discovered. Some beau- 
 tiful specimens of rock crystal are found in the quarries, 
 which are wrouglit for building purposes and for the 
 roads. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £7996. Gilmerton House, the property of Sir David 
 Kinlock, Bart., is a splendid seat. The only other resi- 
 dence of note in the parish is an ancient baronial man- 
 sion formerly belonging to the Earls of Winton, a 
 quadrilateral building, of which a small part only is now 
 inhabited, and the remainder is in ruins ; the principal 
 room is still preserved, and attached to the house are a 
 large garden and a bowling-green. Great facility of in- 
 tercourse is afforded to the inhabitants by the North- 
 British railway, and its North Berwick branch. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Haddington, synod of Lo- 
 thian and Tweeddale. Sir David Kinloch, Bart., is 
 patron, and the stipend of the incumbent is £262; the 
 manse is a comfortable residence, and the glebe comprises 
 five acres, valued at £15 per annum. The old church, 
 which belonged to the monastery founded at Haddington 
 by Ada, Countess of Northumberland, mother of Mal- 
 colm IV., was used till the year 17SO, when, falling into 
 a dilapidated state, the present church was erected, in a 
 more convenient situation, for a congregation of 500 
 persons. The parochial school affords education to about 
 eighty scholars ; the master has a salary of £35. 10., 
 with a house and garden, and the fees are £48 : the 
 schoolroom is one of the best in the county. On the 
 spot where Athelstan is said to have been buried, a stone 
 coffin was found by some men who were cjuarrying stone 
 for mending the roads, a few years since. This coffin, 
 consisting of five stones cemented together, was lodged 
 in the rock, which had been excavated for its reception, 
 about two feet below the surface, and contained a human 
 skeleton in a state of almost total decomposition. The 
 lands on which the battle was fought, were anciently 
 given by the king of Scotland to the Culdee priory of 
 St. Andrew's, in acknowledgment of the victory obtained; 
 and at the Revolution of I68S, they were bestowed upon 
 the royal chapel of Holyrood House. On the lands con- 
 stituting the barony of Drem are the remains of a Pictish 
 town, consisting of various houses built round the brow 
 of a low hill of conical form, which had been strongly 
 fortified by three tiers of ramparts, with a deep circum- 
 vallation below : these works are supposed to have been 
 thrown up as a defence against the Romans, who had a 
 station about half a mile distant, on the alleged site of 
 80 
 
 which, various Roman relics have been found, including 
 an urn of superior workmanship containing burnt bones. 
 There are some remains of the ancient church, built in 
 the early part of the twelfth century by Ada, and in 
 which service was originally performed by the monks of 
 Haddington. 
 
 Among the eminent men of the place, has been the 
 Rev. Robert Blair, author of The Grave, who was for 
 fifteen years incumbent, and was interred in the church- 
 yard, in which a monument was erected to his memory. 
 His son, the late Robert Blair, lord president of the court 
 of session, was born here, during the incumbency of his 
 father. John Home, author of the tragedy of Douglas, 
 was incumbent after the death of the Rev. Robert Blair ; 
 and Archibald Skirving, an eminent portrait painter, who, 
 having perfected himself in the study of his profession 
 at Rome, exercised it here for many years with great suc- 
 cess, was a native of the parish. 
 
 AUCHINBLAE, a village, in the parish of For- 
 DouN, county of Kinc.\rdine, 5 miles (N. by E.) from 
 Laurencekirk ; containing 643 inhabitants. This place, 
 the name of which signifies " the field of blossoms ", is 
 situated on the banks of the Luther water, and on the 
 side of a fine valley, gently sloping to the south. It con- 
 tains several well-built houses, and has risen into consi- 
 deration within the last half century, the population 
 finding employment from the increase of the trade and 
 manufactures, the principal of which latter are yarn and 
 brown linen. The place has been erected into a burgh of 
 barony, and is governed by a baron-bailie appointed by 
 the Earl of Kintore. Fairs are held in April and May, 
 and, during the winter portion of the year, markets on 
 every Friday, for the sale of cattle and grain. — See For- 
 
 DOUN. 
 
 AUCHINCAIRN, a village, in the parish of Rer- 
 RiCK, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 7 miles (E.) from 
 Kirkcudbright; containing 373 inhabitants. It is seated 
 at the north-western extremity of the fine bay of Auch- 
 incairn, or Balcarry, which is about two miles in length 
 and one in breadth. The bay has a beach of smooth and 
 firm sand, and small vessels may load and unload on any 
 part of it ; on the west side is a large natural basin, 
 where ships of burthen find safe anchorage in the most 
 stormy weather, and at every point of the wind. A post 
 is established here, under the Castle-Douglas office ; and 
 a fair is held annually in August, but very little business 
 is now transacted at it. In the village are places of wor- 
 ship for Baptists and the Free Church : here is one of 
 the parochial schools, and children are also taught in the 
 Baptist place of worship. 
 
 AUCHINCRAW, a village, in the parish of Cold- 
 iNGHAM, county of Berwick, 2 miles (N. W.) from 
 Ayton ; containing 203 inhabitants. It is situated at 
 the boundary of the parish ; and upon the height called 
 Warlaw, to the west, is a camp of oval form covering an 
 area of five or six acres of very poor moorland, but re- 
 specting which both history and tradition are silent. In 
 the village is a school connected with the Synod of 
 United Original Seceders. 
 
 AUCHINDOIR and KEARN, a parish, in the district 
 of Alford, county of Aberdeen, 36 miles (W. N. W.) 
 from Aberdeen; containing 1188 inhabitants. The 
 name Auchindoir, which is of Gaelic origin, and signi- 
 fies "the field of pursuit", is supposed to have been 
 applied from the circumstance of Luthlac, sou of Mac-
 
 A U CH 
 
 AUC H 
 
 beth, having been pursued through the valley of Auch- 
 indoir to that of Bogie, where he was overtaken and 
 slain by Malcolm. Kearn is said to be a corruption of 
 Cairn, there being a remarkable cairn or tumulus in that 
 district, of the history of which nothing, however, is 
 known. The two places were united in 181 1, previously 
 to which Kearn was joined to Forbes. The length of 
 the habitable part is about seven miles, the breadth 
 nearly the same, and the parishes together contain 
 about 15,600 acres under cultivation, and 2100 under 
 plantaticm and natural wood, besides pasture and waste. 
 The surface is varied and irregular, consisting of nume- 
 rous hills and pleasing valleys, ridges, and mountains, 
 some of which are covered with wood, and have a con- 
 siderable elevation ; Correen, in the southern quarter, 
 is about 13.50, and the Buck of the Cabrach, in the 
 west, 'Z377 feet above the sea. In the higher parts the 
 climate is cold and bleak, exposed to severe frosts and 
 heavy falls of snow, but in the lower and more sheltered 
 places it is temperate and salubrious. The river Bogie, 
 which is formed by the junction of the Craig and Cor- 
 chinan burns at the manse, after pursuing a serpentine 
 course of about eleven miles through a fine valley, joins 
 the Doveron at Huntly : it is plentifully supplied with 
 fine trout. The Don runs for about two miles on the 
 south-east ; and the small stream of Mossat divides the 
 parish from Kildrummy on the south. 
 
 The SOIL presents a considerable variety, consisting 
 in some parts of a rich alluvial loam, and in other places 
 of clay, with a large proportion of sand and pebbles. 
 In the lower grounds it is in general sharp, dry, and 
 fertile, but towards the hills mossy and poor. The 
 quantity of arable land is on the increase ; much barren 
 land has been reclaimed, and the method of cultivation 
 has recently been considerably improved : the houses 
 and cottages, also, are in a much better condition than 
 they were thirty or forty years since. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £3600. The plantations 
 are numerous and extensive, and comprise trees of all 
 the kinds usually reared. Sandstone of excellent quality 
 is found, as well as limestone, and whinstone is also in 
 great abundance. There are two gentlemen's seats, 
 Craig and Druminnor, both of them of considerable 
 antiquity, the former bearing the date 151S, and the 
 latter, which was once the chief seat of the Forbes 
 family, that of the year 15/7. Near the castle of Craig 
 is the "Den", a celebrated spot in this part of the 
 country, surrounded by scenery of a varied and beautiful 
 description, and much resorted to by tourists as an 
 object of curiosity. The only village is Lumsden, which 
 is of recent growth, and contains about 300 persons, 
 chiefly traders and handicraftsmen. The main popula- 
 tion of the parish is agricultural, being employed in 
 the rural districts in cultivating the land, and in rearing 
 cattle, for the sale of which four markets are held during 
 the year. Here is a post-office. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of Alford 
 and synod of Aberdeen ; the Earl of Fife is patron. 
 The minister's stipend is £158, part of which is received 
 from the exchequer ; there is a manse, erected in 1843, 
 and the glebe is valued at £10 a year. The church, 
 which was built in 1811, accommodates 450 persons. 
 At Lumsden is a place of worship belonging to the 
 United Presbyterian Synod. A place of worship has 
 been erected in connexion with the Free Church ; and 
 Vol. I.— 81 
 
 there is a parochial school, the master of which has a 
 salary of £30, about £'20 fees, and a house and gar- 
 den. The moat or mount where the ancient Castrum 
 AuclnndoTM, mentioned by Boethius, seems to have 
 stood, is still shown in the parish ; and another most 
 interesting relic of antiquity, situated near it, is the old 
 parochial church, now a venerable ruin, attracting atten- 
 tion from its ivy-mantled walls, its fine Saxon gateway, 
 and its inscriptions and sculpture. 
 
 AUCHINDRYNE, a village, in the parish of Cra- 
 THiE and Braemar, district of Kincardine O'Neil, 
 county of Aberdeen; containing 1*4 inhabitants. 
 
 AUCHINEARN, OLD and NEW, a village, in the 
 parish of Cadder, Lower ward of the county of Lanark ; 
 containing 561 inhabitants, chietly employed in agri- 
 culture. In this village is situated one of the paro- 
 chial schools, endowed with 1000 merks by the late 
 Rev. James Warden, a former incumbent of the parish. 
 In 1764 Dr. William Leechm.m, principal of the univer- 
 sity of Glasgow, and then proprietor of this estate, gave 
 in trust to the Kirk Session, a schoolroom and house 
 for a teacher, with a small portion of land, on condition 
 that they should appoint a master. The school-house 
 was handsomely rebuilt in 18'26, by the late Charles 
 Stirling, Esq., assisted by Archibald Lamont, Esq., and 
 other heritors. The master receives a salary of £8. 10., 
 with £12 fees, and the interest of the Rev. James War- 
 den's bequest. A library has lately been established in 
 the village. 
 
 AUCHINLECK, a parish, in the district of Kyle, 
 county of Ayr, 1^ mile (N. W.) from Old Cumnock; 
 containing 1659 inhabitants, of whom about 600 are in 
 the village. This place, the Celtic name of which is 
 descriptive of its abounding with stone, is supposed to 
 be of considerable antiquity. But little of its history is 
 known prior to the commencement of the sixteenth 
 century, when the manor, which belonged to a family 
 of the same name, becoming forfeited to the crown, was 
 granted by James IV. to Thomas Boswell, a branch of 
 an ancient family in the county of Fife, ancestor of the 
 biographer of Dr. Johnson, and who was killed at the 
 battle of Flodden-field. The parish is about seventeen 
 miles in length, from east to west, and not more than 
 two miles in average breadth, comprising about 19,000 
 acres, of which 5000 are arable, 300 woodland and 
 plantations, and 13,000 natural pasture and waste. Its 
 surface is generally elevated, and towards the east the 
 hills rise to a height of upwards of 1000 feet. A moss seve- 
 ral miles in length called Aird's Moss, nearly in the centre 
 of the parish, gives it a barren appearance. The vale of 
 Glenmore, also, of considerable extent, and in a state of 
 nature, presents features of wild aspect ; but the more 
 western portion of the parish, being wholly in cultiva- 
 tion, has an air of cheerfulness and fertility. The river 
 Ayr forms for a small space a boundary between this 
 parish and that of Muirkirk,and pursues its course into 
 the parish of Sorn ; while the Lugar, another river, 
 separates Auchiideck for about five miles from Cum- 
 nock, and for about two miles from the parish of 
 Ochiltree, and flows into the river Ayr about a mile 
 below this place, near the town of Mauchline. 
 
 The SOIL is various, generally a stiff retentive clay, 
 but by draining and good management has in many 
 parts been rendered productive. Some progress has 
 been made in furrow-draining, and a portion of the 
 
 M
 
 AUC H 
 
 A UCH 
 
 mossy land has been reclaimed and bronght into cultiva- 
 tion. The chief crops are oats, potatoes, beans, and 
 turnips, and there are a few acres of bear, barley, and 
 wheat. Ttie principal reliance of the farmers is on the 
 dairy. A large number of milch-cows, mostly of the 
 Ayrshire breed, are kept, and a great many young cattle 
 are reared ; the milk is chiefly made into cheese of the 
 Dunlop kind, and sent to the markets of Glasgow and 
 other towns. A considerable number of sheep are also 
 fed, of the black-faced breed. The woods contain many 
 fine specimens of stately timber of ancient growth, and 
 the plantations are in general thriving and ornamental. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £7497. 
 The substrata are limestone, coal, ironstone, sandstone, 
 and freestone of various sorts. The limestone and coal 
 have been long extensively wrought, and of the former 
 there are two large quarries, one on the lands of Auchin- 
 leck, producing annually about 50,000 bushels of excel- 
 lent quality, and one belonging to the proprietor of Dal- 
 blair, yielding also a fair quantity. Near these is an in- 
 ferior kind of coal, used for burning the lime. Coal-pits 
 have also been opened on the lands of Mr. Alexander of 
 Ballochmyle, on which, as well as on the Auchinleck 
 property, steam-engines have been erected ; the seams 
 of coal vary in thickness, and in the depth at which 
 they are found from the surface, and the average annual 
 produce is about 8500 tons. Ironstone likewise abounds 
 in the parish. Freestone, much esteemed for millstones, 
 is quarried on the banks of the Lugar ; and at Wallace- 
 town is found a stone which is fire-proof. The present 
 house of Auchinleck is a handsome mansion in the Gre- 
 cian style, erected by Lord Auchinleck, and is situated 
 in a diversified demesne, comprehending much beautiful 
 scenery, richly wooded. 
 
 The village stands on the road from Glasgow to 
 Carlisle, by Kilmarnock, and has a station on the 
 Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle railway. Many of the 
 inhabitants are employed in weaving for the manu- 
 facturers of Paisley and Glasgow ; the principal articles 
 are light silks and muslins. Some females are also 
 employed in flowering muslins in a variety of patterns, 
 for which this neighbourhood is celebrated. The manu- 
 facture of snuffboxes is carried on to a considerable 
 extent ; it was introduced into this place from Cumnock, 
 and the workmen here manufacture card and needle 
 cases, and ornamental boxes of various descriptions. 
 The wood used for this purpose is plane-tree, and many 
 of the specimens are painted in devices, tartan plaiding, 
 and other patterns, and, being well varnished, have a 
 very handsome appearance. They are quite equal in 
 point of workmanship to those made at Laurencekirk, 
 though sold at an inferior price. About sixty dozens 
 are sometimes finished weekly, and sent off, chiefly to 
 the London market, but the demand for them is very 
 fluctuating : the principal manufactory is now at 
 Mauchline. A fair for lambs is held on the last 
 Tuesday in August, and is numerously attended. For 
 ecclesiastical purposes the parish is in the presbyterj' 
 of Ayr, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage 
 of Sir James Boswell, Bart. ; the minister's stipend is 
 £161. 1. 11., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 
 per annum. The old church is an ancient edifice, to 
 which an aisle was added by Lord Auchinleck in 1*54 ; 
 and underneath it is the burying-place of the Auchin- 
 leck family, hewn out of the solid rock. A new church 
 8-2 
 
 has been erected, near the site of the former ; it is a 
 substantial and handsome edifice, adapted for a con- 
 gregation of 800 persons. There is a place of worship 
 for the United Original Seceders. The parochial school 
 is well attended ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4|., 
 with £10 fees, and a house and garden. In the grounds 
 of Auchinleck House are some remains of the ancient 
 castle, in a greatly dilapidated condition ; and in the 
 upper part of the parish, near the junction of the Gelt 
 and Glenmore streams, are slight remains of the castle 
 of Kyle, the history of which is involved in great uncer- 
 tainty. On the banks of the Ayr, near the confines of 
 the parish of Muirkirk, are tlie vestiges of some old iron- 
 works, said to have been established bj' Lord Cathcart. 
 William Murdoch, of the firm of Boulton and Watt, of 
 Soho, near Birmingham, and who first applied gas for the 
 illumination of buildings, was a native of this parish. 
 
 AUCHINLOCH, a hamlet, in the former quoad sacra 
 parish of Chryston, parish of Caddf.r, Lower ward of 
 the county of Lanark, 2 miles (S.) from the town of 
 Kirkintilloch; containing 13S inhabitants. This village 
 has its name from a considerable loch now drained, 
 and owes its origin to the mines of coal in its immediate 
 vicinity, which have been worked on a moderate scale 
 by its inhabitants, though the quality is scarcely good 
 enough to remunerate the expense of obtaining it. 
 There are also limestone-quarries, from which materials 
 are raised for building and agricultural purposes, and for 
 which works have been established at Garnkirk. In the 
 village is a school endowed by Patrick Baird with £300, 
 the interest whereof is paid annually to the master. 
 
 AUCHINMULLY, a village, in the parish of Kil- 
 syth, county of Stirling, 2 miles (E. N. E.) from 
 Kilsj-th ; containing 212 inhabitants. It is also called 
 Lower Banton, and is situated in the east barony divi- 
 sion of the parish. On the south flows the river Kelvin, 
 from which the village is distant about a mile. 
 
 AUCHINRAITH, a hamlet, in the parish of Blan- 
 TYRE, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; contain- 
 ing 77 inhabitants. It lies a short distance to the east 
 of the village of Blantyre. The Alston family have a 
 handsome seat here. 
 
 AUCHINTIBER, a hamlet, in the parish of Blan- 
 tyre, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; contain- 
 ing 73 inhabitants. It is situated in the western part 
 of the parish, on which side the Rotten-Calder water 
 forms the boundary, and separates the parish from that 
 of Kilbride. 
 
 AUCHLEVEN, a village, in the parish of Premnay, 
 district of Gakioch, county of Aberdeen ; containing 
 107 inhabitants. It is seated in the south of the parish, 
 on the road from Insch to Keig, which at this place 
 crosses the river Gady by a light bridge of two arches, 
 built in 1836. The manufacture of woollen cloth is 
 carried on here, on a small scale ; and a corn-mill in the 
 village is turned by the water of Gady. 
 
 AUCHMILLAX, a hamlet, in the parish of Mauch- 
 line, district of Kyle, county of Ayr, '2 miles (N. by 
 E.) from Mauchline ; containing 24 inhabitants. This 
 place is situated, equidistantly, between the roads from 
 Mauchline to Kilraallock and from Sorn Castle to Gal- 
 ston. The number of the population has latterly de- 
 cUned. 
 
 AUCHMITHIE, a village, in the parish of St. Vi- 
 gean's, county of Forfar, 3^ miles (N. E.) from Ar-
 
 A UC H 
 
 A U C H 
 
 broath ; containing 307 inhabitants. It stands upon the 
 coast, on a high roclvy bank which rises nearly 120 feet 
 above the sea ; and is irregularly built. There are 
 several good houses, but the dwellings are chiefly those 
 of fishermen, who form a large part of the population. 
 The harbour is a level beach, formed by an opening be- 
 tween the rocks that here surround the coast: near the 
 village is the Gaylet Pot, a remarkable cavern into which 
 the sea flows. Divine service is performed in a small 
 chapel by a minister of the Established Church. 
 
 AUCHNACRAIG, a village, in the parish of Toro- 
 SAY, island of Mull, county of Argyll, 18 miles (S. E.) 
 from Aros. It is situated on the eastern coast of the 
 island, and has a post-office establishment. There is 
 also a regular ferry, first to Kerrera, and thence to the 
 main land near Oban, affording facility for the transport 
 of horses and cattle to the several markets ; but the 
 number at present ferried over is not so great as for- 
 merly. — See ToROSAY. 
 
 AUCHTERARDER, a town, the seat of a presbytery, 
 and a parish, in the county of Perth, .54^ miles (N. W.) 
 from Edinburgh; containing, with the village of Smithy- 
 haugh, 3434 inhabitants, of whom 2068 are in the town. 
 This place anciently belonged to the abbey of Inchaffray; 
 and in 1328 the lands were granted by charter of Robert 
 Bruce to Sir William Montifix, justiciary of Scotland, 
 whose daughter and heiress conveyed them by marriage 
 to Sir John Drummond, with whose descendants they 
 remained till their forfeiture by the participation of that 
 family in the rebellion of 1715. During that period of 
 distraction, the town was laid waste and burnt by the 
 Pretender's army, under the Earl of Mar, in order to 
 check the progress of the royal forces. For this injury, 
 indemnification was promised to the inhabitants, by 
 proclamation issued from the ancient palace of Scone in 
 1716; but the only compensation they received was from 
 the reigning family, to such of them as had not been 
 concerned in the rebellion. The commissioners appointed 
 to take charge of the forfeited estates, made a survey of 
 the barony of Auchterarder in 1778, by which it ap- 
 pears that the inhabitants were in a very distressed con- 
 dition, on account of the backward state of agriculture 
 and the want of employment. From this depression, 
 however, they have been gradually rising ; and since the 
 purchase of the estate by Captain Hunter, the place has 
 rapidly improved. 
 
 This TOWN, which, upon disputed authority, is sup- 
 posed to have been anciently a royal burgh, is situated 
 on the turnpike-road from Glasgow to Perth, and has a 
 station of the Scottish Central railway in its vicinity. 
 It consists chiefly of one street, more than a mile in 
 length, in which are some well-built houses, and nume- 
 rous other dwellings of inferior appearance, occupied by 
 weavers and manufacturers. The inhabitants are amply 
 supplied with pure water, from a copious spring con- 
 veyed by pipes into their houses, mainly through the 
 exertions of Captain Aytoun, of the Royal Artillery, in 
 1832. The chief trades are, the weaving of cotton for 
 the manufacturers of Glasgow, in which more than .500 
 looms are in constant operation ; and the making of 
 shawls, blankets, and other articles of the woollen 
 manufacture. There are two breweries for ale and beer; 
 and a branch of the Central Bank of Scotland, and a 
 branch of the National Savings' Bank, have been esta- 
 blished. The town is supplied with gas. A market is 
 
 held on Saturday, and is well supplied with provisions 
 and with grain, for which it is the principal mart of 
 the district. Fairs are held on the last Tuesday in 
 March, for grain ; the Thursday after the last Tuesday 
 in May, for cattle ; the Fridays before the Falkirk trysts 
 in August, September, and October, for cattle and 
 horses ; and the 6th of December, for cattle and general 
 business. The post-office has two deliveries daily ; and 
 facility of communication with Edinburgh, Glasgow, 
 Perth, and Stirling, is maintained by railway. 
 
 The PARISH includes the ancient parish of Aberuthven, 
 united to Auchterarder prior to the Reformation. It is 
 bounded on the north by the river Earn, and extends 
 eight miles in length from north to south, and three 
 miles in breadth from east to west, comprising 13,747 
 acres, of which 7176 are arable, about 300 acres wood- 
 land and plantations, and the remainder meadow, pas- 
 ture, and waste. The surface is hilly, and rises from 
 the banks of the Earn to the Ochil hills, of which the 
 highest, Craig Rossie, 2359 feet above the level of the 
 sea, is within the limits of the parish. The principal 
 rivers are, the Earn, which rises in Loch Earn, and falls 
 into the Tay ; and the Ruthven, which, after receiving 
 the waters of several rivulets descending from the 
 Ochils, flows through the parish, and falls into the Earn. 
 In the Earn are found salmon and large white and 
 yellow trout, and in the Ruthven a small species of 
 trout remarkable for the delicacy of its flavour. The 
 soil, in the eastern part of the parish, is light and 
 sandy ; in the lower lands, a clayey loam ; and in the 
 neighbourhood of the town, a rich black loam. The 
 chief crops are oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, turnips, 
 and peas, with the usual grasses. The system of hus- 
 bandry has been greatly improved ; nuich waste land 
 has been reclaimed by embankment from the overflow- 
 ing of the Earn, and a considerable stimulus is afforded 
 by the premiums awarded at an annual ploughing- 
 match, by the agricultural society of the parish. Cows 
 of the Ayrshire breed are kept on the dairy-farms ; the 
 cattle on the pastures are generally the Teeswater, and 
 on the lower lands sheep of the Leicestershire breed 
 have been introduced. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £8600. The substrata are mostly of the 
 old red sandstone formation, grey slate of good quality 
 for roofing, and limestone, which, from the scarcity of 
 fuel, is not much wrought : a search has been made for 
 coal, but without success. There is little old wood now 
 remaining ; the plantations, which are principally of 
 modern date, are chiefly larch and oak. Auchterarder 
 House is a handsome mansion in the Elizabethan style, 
 lately erected, and situated in grounds that have been 
 greatly improved. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Auchterarder and synod of 
 Perth and Stirling: the minister's stipend is £199. 14. 2., 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £17 per annum; 
 patron, the Earl of Kinnoul. The church, rebuilt in 
 1784, and enlarged in 181 1, is a plain structure, situated 
 in the town, and containing 930 sittings. In the aisle at 
 Aberuthven is the mausoleum of the (iraham family, in 
 which are several coffins containing the remains of de- 
 parted Dukes of Montrose, and in the vault beneath 
 have been interred many of their ancestors. There are 
 places of worship in connexion with the United Presby- 
 terian Synod and the Free Church. The parochial 
 
 M 2
 
 A U C H 
 
 AU C H 
 
 school is well attended : the master has a salary of 
 £34. 4. 4., with a house, and au allowance of £2 in lieu 
 of a garden ; the fees average about £40 per annum. 
 There is also a school for which a building was erected 
 in 1811 by John Sheddan, Esq., who endowed it with 
 property to the value of about £1000, the proceeds of 
 which are paid to the master on condition of his teach- 
 ing twelve children gratuitously. To the north of the 
 town are the ruins of a building supposed to have been 
 a hunting-scat of Malcolm Canmore's ; the walls, which 
 are of great thickness, have been nearly demolished for 
 building materials. Eastward of these ruins are the 
 remains of the ancient church of St. Muugo, formerly 
 the parish church, the cemetery of which is still used 
 as a place of sepulture by the parishioners ; and in 
 digging the foundation for the present church, a coin of 
 the Emperor Titus Vespasian was found, in a very per- 
 fect state. 
 
 AUCHTERDERRAN, a parish, in the district of 
 Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, 6 miles (N. W. by W.) 
 from Kirkcaldy; containing 1913 inhabitants, of whom 
 770 are in the village of Lochgelly. This parish derives 
 its name from the Gaehc, uachdar darrein signifying 
 " the height or ridge of oaks". It is about six miles in 
 length, and varies from one to four in breadth. The 
 surface is mostly flat, though varying in elevation, the 
 lands near Lochgelly being more than 100 feet above 
 the general level. The river Ore, ■which has its source 
 in the parish of Ballingry, flows through this parish in 
 its course to the Leven, and has two bridges, each of 
 one arch. Viewed from the adjacent heights, the parish 
 has a very interesting appearance, the scenery being 
 greatly varied, especially near the lake of Lochgelly, a 
 large sheet of water about three miles in circumference, 
 the north side of which, being beautifully covered with 
 wood, presents a rich and most picturesque scene, and 
 forms a striking contrast to the south side, which is 
 bleak and dreary, but might be much improved by 
 planting. The soil is chiefly clay, interspersed with 
 sand, and in several places are tracts of black loam, 
 producing abundant crops : about one-third of the land 
 is in pasture, about 500 acres wood, and the remainder 
 arable in good cultivation. Great progress has been 
 made in agricultural improvement, within the last few 
 years, by some of the landed proprietors. A consider- 
 able tract of waste land was reclaimed by the late pro- 
 prietor of Raith, now forming the farm of New Cardon ; 
 and Col. Ferguson, the present proprietor, has carried 
 out all the new improvements, on an extensive scale, 
 on the farm of Dothan. James Aytoun, Esq., of Capel- 
 drae, has admirably exemplified the effect of thorough 
 draining, on that part of his property called Harestanes. 
 These improvements have had a most beneficial influ- 
 ence, and the enterprising farmers are following the 
 proprietors' example with great spirit. The crops raised 
 in the parish are wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, beans, 
 and peas ; the cattle are of the black Fifeshire breed, 
 and much attention is paid to their improvement. The 
 farm-buildings are commodious, and the lands are gene- 
 rally enclosed with stone dykes. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £5018. 
 
 There is very little natural wood, and the plantations 
 
 are mostly of recent growth ; about nineteen acres of 
 
 moss have been lately planted with Scotch firs, which 
 
 are thriving well. The substratum is mainly whiastone; 
 
 84 
 
 limestone of excellent quality is quarried in several 
 places, and coal is every where abundant. The coal- 
 mines at Clun}', belonging to Col. Ferguson, are very 
 productive ; about 70,000 loads are annually raised for 
 the supply of the neighbourhood, and more than seventy 
 persons are employed in the works. The mines on 
 Lord Miuto's lands of Lochgelly produce 50,000 loads 
 annually, and aOFord constant occupation to about fifty 
 persons ; while the works at Dundonald, belonging to 
 R. W. Ramsay, Esq., produce about 7000 loads. Iron- 
 works have lately been erected, and from the extent and 
 quality of the mineral field the district promises to 
 become of still greater mining importance. Facility of 
 communication is afforded by the Dunfermline branch 
 of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. 
 
 The parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy and synod 
 of Fife : the minister's stipend is £237. H. 10., with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per annum ; patrons, 
 the Boswell family of Balmuto. Half the barony of 
 Auchterderran came into the possession of Roger de 
 Boswell, in consequence of his having married the co- 
 heiress of Sir William Lochore, of Lochore ; and thus 
 the family have continued patrons of the parish, though 
 they have ceased to be proprietors in it. The church 
 was built in 1789. There is a place of worship for 
 dissenters in the village of Lochgelly. The parochial 
 school is attended by nearly 100 scholars; the master 
 has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with £25 fees, and a good 
 house, and £2. 2. 4. in lieu of a garden. The church, 
 the manse, and school-house are beautifully situated 
 near the east side of the parish ; immediately behind is 
 the finely-wooded ridge from which the parish derives 
 its name, and when the broom is in bloom, it is a scene 
 of beauty. 
 
 AUCHTERGAVEN, a parish, in the county of 
 Perth, 85 miles (N. by W.) from Perth ; containing, 
 with the villages of Bankfoot, Carnie-Hill, and Water- 
 loo, and the greater part of Stanley, 3366 inhabitants. 
 This place was distinguished in former times as the 
 scene of some fierce contentions between the Bishop of 
 Dunkeld and Sir James Crichton, of Strathford, in the 
 parish, who had forcibly taken possession of the lands 
 of Little Dunkeld, belonging to that see. In the rebel- 
 lion of 1745, Lord Nairne, who owned considerable 
 estates here, embarked in the cause of the Young Pre- 
 tender, whom he joined at the city of Perth, and on his 
 defeat accompanied him to the continent, where he con- 
 tinued to reside. The title, upon his attainder, became 
 forfeited ; and the splendid baronial mansion which he 
 had nearly completed, to replace the former that had 
 been destroyed by fire, was sold with the estates, and 
 afterwards taken down by the Duke of Atholl, who be- 
 came the proprietor by purchase. 
 
 This parish, which derives its name from a Celtic term 
 descriptive of its situation, is about ten miles in length, 
 and of very irregular form, varying from less than two 
 to six miles in breadth. It is bounded on the east by 
 the river Tay, and on the west by a brook which sepa- 
 rates it from Mulhon, a detached portion of the parish 
 of Redgorton. Its natural limits comprehend an isolated 
 tract four miles in length, but of very small breadth, 
 called Tullybeagles, belonging to the parish of Methven. 
 The surface is agreeably diversified with hills and dales, 
 the land rising gradually from the banks of the Tay to 
 a lofty range on the west and north-west, forming a
 
 A U C H 
 
 A UC H 
 
 portion of the Grampian heights, of which the highest 
 within the parish is Birnani Hill, 1300 feet above the 
 sea; the other hills are Craig-Obney, Craig-Gibbon, 
 Tullybelton, and Corrody hills, which are not much 
 inferior in elevation. On one of these hills, still called 
 "Court Hill", the sheriff is said to have held his court, 
 for the trial of a lawless set of banditti who committed 
 great depredation on the lands ; and some trees on 
 which the men were executed are styled " Hanged 
 Men's Trees". Numerous streams descend from the 
 mountains, affording an abundant supply of water, and 
 adding to the beauty of the scenery, which is richly 
 embellished with woods and plantations. Of these 
 streams the principal is the Corral burn, which issues 
 from a spring at the base of the Obney hills, flows 
 through the village of Bankfoot, and falls into the Garry 
 near the church, receiving in its course the waters of 
 the Aldinny, which rises also in the Obney hills. The 
 Garry, issuing from the head of Glen-Garr, flows be- 
 tween the hills above Strathban, and after receiving the 
 waters of the Corral, falls into the Ordie at Loak. The 
 Ordie has its source in a lake in the hill of Tullybelton, 
 and after traversing the centre of the parish, and re- 
 ceiving the Wynnie, which rises in the district of Tully- 
 beagles, flows into the Shochie in the parish of Red- 
 gorton. The Shochie, which has its source in Glen-Shee, 
 and is joined by the above-named tributary streams, falls 
 into the Tay. 
 
 The parish comprises 19,200 acres, of which about 
 6000 are arable and in a high state of cultivation, 796 
 woodland, and 1200 pasture. Considerable additions 
 have been made to the arable and pasture lands by im- 
 provements in draining and fencing, and an advanced 
 state of agriculture ; and comparatively little of the 
 moor and waste will remain long in an unproductive 
 state. The soil is various in the different districts, but 
 in general is a loam intermixed with sand and pebbles, 
 and, on some of the farms, with large boulders of stone. 
 In the upper lands it is very retentive of moisture, and 
 in the lower grounds comparatively dry and light. The 
 principal crops are oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and 
 turnips ; bone-dust has been introduced for manure on 
 the turnip lands with very great success. Much atten- 
 tion is paid to the rearing of live-stock : the cattle are 
 mostly the Ayrshire, with a cross of the short-horned 
 breed, and some few of the Angusshire ; the sheep are 
 nearly all of the Scotch black-faced kind, which feed in 
 the hills, and a few of the Leicestershire, which are 
 pastured on the low lands. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £9896. 
 
 The woods mainly consist of oak, common and moun- 
 tain ash, elm, and beech, and the plantations of larch, 
 spruce, and Scotch firs; along the banks of the Tay are 
 some remarkably fine beech-trees. In the lower lands 
 the substratum is chiefly gravel of very great depth, 
 intersected by a seam of whinstone, which is quarried 
 for mending the roads, and alternated with strata of 
 red sandstone ; the hills are principally of clay-slate 
 and greywacke, in which masses of quartz are found. 
 At Glen-Shee is a quarry of slate of good quality for 
 roofing ; there are two varieties, blue and grey, the 
 latter of which is the more durable : slate of a similar 
 kind was formerly quarried at Obney and at Tully- 
 beagles. The sandstime is quarried for building pur- 
 poses at Stanley, and in other parts of the parish : the 
 85 
 
 finest quarry is at Speedy Hill ; the stone found here is 
 of greenish hue, very compact, and susceptible of a fine 
 polish, and was employed in the erection of the new 
 castle of Dunkeld. Stanley House, an ancient mansion 
 to which repeated additions have been made, and which 
 is greatly modernised, is beautifully situated on the 
 shore of the Tay, embosomed in a richly-wooded de- 
 mesne, containing many stately trees. Airlywight House 
 is a handsome residence of modern erection, on elevated 
 ground commanding an extensive prospect, and forms 
 an interesting and very prominent feature in the land- 
 scape. A considerable number of the inhabitants are 
 employed in weaving for the manufactures of Blair- 
 gowrie, Dundee, Arbroath, Newburgh, and Cupar-An- 
 gus ; the principal fabrics are white linens and dowlas, 
 and in the weaving of these articles, and in spinning 
 and winding, about 300 persons are engaged, of whom 
 a large portion are females. More than 1000 persons 
 are employed in the Stanley cotton-works, which are 
 separately described. There are five corn and two lint 
 mills. The road from Perth to Dunkeld, forming part 
 of the road from Edinburgh to Inverness, passes for 
 five miles through the parish, which is also intersected 
 by the Perth and Forfar railway. A fair is held in the 
 village of Auchtergaven, on the second Friday in No- 
 vember, for the sale of cattle, sheep, and horses, and for 
 agricultural produce. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes Auchtergaven is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Dunkeld and synod of 
 Perth and Stirling ; patron, the Crown. It comprises 
 the small ancient parish of Logiebride, which was united 
 to it by act of parliament in I6l8, and subsequently 
 severed from it by the Bishop of Dunkeld, but again 
 united at the period of the Revolution in 1688 : the 
 church of Logiebride stood on the bank of the Ordie, 
 but has long since disappeared, though the ancient 
 cemetery is still used as a place of sepulture. The 
 stipend of the incumbent is £179. 6. 4. ; the manse is 
 a plain building, erected within the last twenty or thirty 
 years, and the glebe lands are valued at £1.5 per annum. 
 The church, situated on an eminence rising from the 
 road between Dunkeld and Perth, is a plain substantial 
 edifice, with a western tower added by the Duke of 
 Atholl, and is adapted for a congregation of 1200 per- 
 sons. There are places of worship in connexion with 
 the United Presbyterian Synod and the Free Church. 
 The parochial school affords a liberal course of instruc- 
 tion ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 45., with a 
 house and garden, and the fees average about £1.5 per 
 annum. 
 
 On the farm of Middle Blelock, and at Obney, are 
 some large upright stones, concerning which nothing 
 authentic is known. A vitrified fort has been disco- 
 vered on Obney hill ; and near the ruins of an old 
 chapel, at TuUybeagles, some ancient coins have been 
 discovered, which are in the cabinet of the Literary and 
 Antiquarian Society of Perth. Human bones have been 
 found near the site of another chapel, on the lands of 
 Berryhill farm, in the same district, on the banks of the 
 Ordie. Near Stanley are the remains of a round tower 
 called Inverbervie, or Inchbervis, which is said to have 
 been originally a religious house, and a cell to the abbey 
 of Dunfermline ; and at the Westertown of Kinglands 
 is the site of a mound or a cairn, which has not yet 
 been explored.
 
 A U C H 
 
 A UC H 
 
 AUCHTERHOUSE, a parish, in the county of For- 
 far, T miles (N. W. by N.) from Dundee ; containing, 
 with the villages of Droiiley and Kirkton, "69 inha- 
 bitants. This parish, the name of which is of uncertain 
 derivation, is nearly of triangular form, and in its 
 northern portion includes part of the range of the Sid- 
 law hills, separating it from Strathmore. Along its 
 southern boundary runs the Dighty water, which falls 
 into the Tay near the influx of the latter into the Ger- 
 man Ocean. It has an undulated surface, and com- 
 prises an area of about 5450 acres, of which 356" are 
 in cultivation, 1406 in wood, and the remainder hill 
 pasture. The ground rises from south to north, and 
 the acclivities are under cultivation to the spot where 
 the church stands, 800 feet above the level of the sea ; 
 but more northward the land rises considerably, reach- 
 ing at the White-Sheets of Sidlaw, the highest part of 
 the parish, to about 1400 feet above the high- water 
 mark at Dundee, and being there only fit for pasture and 
 forest- planting. The burn of Dronley, and that of Auch- 
 terhouse, turn several mills in their separate courses 
 from the west and north-west, before their junction at 
 the village of Dronley ; after which, the united streams 
 take the name of Dighty, for the rest of their passage 
 to the ocean. The climate, in the higher district, is 
 cold and bracing : in the lower division it has been 
 much improved within these few years by extensive 
 draining, and is pure and salubrious. 
 
 The soil of the uncultivated portions, with slight ex- 
 ceptions, consists of a thin moorish earth, lying on a 
 retentive tilly subsoil with a substratum of sandstone. 
 The land under tillage is mostly a black mould, in some 
 places sandy, resting on till or marl, and with skilful 
 management yielding good average crops of oats and 
 barley, with the usual green crops, and sometimes 
 wheat, though this last has been nearly discontinued, 
 not having in general succeeded. The dairy is much 
 attended to. Subsoil-ploughing and furrow-draining 
 are extensively practised, with great advantage ; and by 
 the kindly feeling and steady co-operation of landlords 
 and tenants, among many other improvements, nearly 
 500 acres of moor, moss, and bog have been reclaimed 
 within the present century, and now produce fair crops. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £5316. 
 The soil throughout the parish is underlaid with sand- 
 stone very near the surface, and the Sidlaw hill consists 
 of the same rock, occasionally intersected with trap 
 dykes, and aifording good materials for many useful 
 purposes : a quarry is in operation on the estate of 
 Scotstown, giving employment to five or six hands. 
 Plantations comprising larch, spruce, and Scotch fir, 
 elm, ash, plane, and beech, have been formed on the 
 hills, and on the moors of Dronley and Adamstown, 
 by the Earl of Camperdown, to the extent of nearly 
 300 acres ; the spruce and Scotch fir, however, alone 
 being likely to succeed. The late Earl of Airlie planted 
 above SOO acres of the hill of Sidlaw. The Hou.se of 
 Auchterhouse, with its orchards in front, is the best relic 
 of an old baronial residence now existing in this part of 
 the country : it is the property of the Earl of Airlie. 
 Facility of communication is offered by the Dundee and 
 Newtyle turnpike-road, running through the parish from 
 the south to the north-west ; and by the railway be- 
 tween the same places. Dundee is the nearest market- 
 town to Auchterhouse. 
 86 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is ii the presbytery of 
 Dundee, synod of Angus and Mearns, and in the pa- 
 tronage of the Earl of Airlie ; the minister's stipend is 
 about £"200, with a manse, and a glebe of seven acres, 
 valued at £15 per annum. Auchterhouse church was 
 rebuilt in 1*75, and consists of portions both old and 
 modern : it has on the west a steeple, and on the east a 
 very ancient burying-place containing the remains of 
 some members of the Erskine, Lyon, and Ogilvy fa- 
 milies. The parochial school affords instruction in the 
 usual branches ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., 
 with £20. 12. 4. fees. Near the mansion of Auchter- 
 house are the ruins of a square building called Wallace 
 Tower, supposed to have taken its name from a visit 
 paid here to Sir John Ramsay, the proprietor, by the 
 Scottish patriot. Sir William Wallace, after landing at 
 Montrose with his French auxiliaries. Not far from 
 this spot, and in other parts of the parish, are some of 
 those caverns styled " Weems", in which various relics 
 have been found, indicating their former use as abodes 
 of men. On the south of the hill of Sidlaw is a Druidi- 
 cal altar in good preservation. 
 
 AUCHTERLESS, a parish, in the district of Tur- 
 riff, county of Aberdeen, seven miles (S. by W.) 
 from Turriff; containing 1685 inhabitants. The name 
 of this place is derived from a Gaelic word signifying 
 "a cultivated field on the side of a hill", and the appli- 
 cation of the term is favoured by the general appearance 
 of the surface. The parish is of an irregular oblong 
 figure, about eight miles in length and four in breadth, 
 and contains nearly 16,000 acres, of which two-thirds 
 are cultivated, and nearly 500 acres are in plantation. 
 It is bounded on the north by the county of Banff. 
 The lands are watered by the river Ythan, the only 
 considerable stream, which, rising about a mile from 
 the boundary of Auchterless, and flowing through the 
 vale in a north-eastern direction, discharges its waters 
 into the German Ocean below Ellon. In some parts 
 the soil is clayey, but more frequently consists of gravel, 
 lying upon a bed of clay-slate, and is almost uniformly 
 dry. The cattle are of the Aberdeenshire breed, which 
 sprang from a cross between the native and the old Fife 
 stock about seventy years since ; the sheep, which are 
 not numerous, are the Cheviots. The husbandry is of 
 the best kind, and the free use of lime, guano, compost 
 manure, and bone-dust, has much contributed to the 
 fertility of the soil. Almost every farm, too, of any 
 extent, has a threshing- mill on the premises, turned by 
 one of the tributary streams of the Ythan. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £6*73. The 
 prevailing rock is a clay-stone slate, which runs through 
 the whole of the parish from north-east to south-west, 
 but lies at too great a depth to be available for the 
 purposes of quarrying. 
 
 The villages are, Gordonstown, about two miles dis- 
 tant from the church, and the little hamlet of Kirktown. 
 At the latter a market is held on the Wednesday after 
 the second Tuesday in April (O. S.) for the sale of 
 sheep and cattle, which is called Donan fair from the 
 ancient tutelary saint of the parish. The Aberdeen and 
 Banff turnpike-road runs for nearly three miles along 
 the eastern extremity of the parish, and a new turnpike- 
 road from Inverury to Forgue passes along the south- 
 west of the parish. At Badenscoth inn, on the latter 
 road, markets for the sale of cattle and grain are held 
 
 ♦
 
 A U C H 
 
 A U C H 
 
 on the second Mondays of December, January, Fe- 
 bruary, and March. For ecclesiastical purposes Auch- 
 terless is within the bounds of the presbytery of Turriff 
 and synod of Aberdeen ; the patronage belongs to the 
 family of Dulf of Hatton, and the minister's stipend is 
 £191. 6. 5., with a good manse and offices, and a glebe 
 of about six acres, valued at £18 per annum. The 
 church, a plain edifice, built in 1780, and repaired in 
 1832, seats '50 persons. There is a parochial school, 
 affording instruction in Greek, Latin, and mathematics, 
 with all the usual branches of education ; the master 
 has a salary of £34, £'21 fees, and a house and garden. 
 Near the farming-village of Glen-Mailen is the strong 
 and extensive Roman camp called The Rae-Dykes, situ- 
 ated on the south side of the Ythan, a mile below the 
 two well-known springs of the river. According to Mr. 
 Chalmers, it was undoubtedly the Ad Itunurn of Richard 
 of Cirencester, which, from its central position, com- 
 manded the ample extent of the shire of Aberdeen, the 
 ancient country of the Taixali. In the vicinity of The 
 Rae-Dykes are other remains, indicating the long re- 
 sidence of a military people ; and the antiquities of 
 Auchterless also comprise some Druidical circles. This 
 parish has been famed for the longevity of several of 
 its inhabitants, one of whom, Peter Garden, a farmer, 
 died about the year 1/80 at the advanced age of 132, 
 having lived under eight sovereigns, commencing with 
 Charles I. : he was one of the garrison in the old castle 
 of Towie Barclay when Montrose defended it against 
 Argyll. 
 
 AUCHTERMUCHTY, a 
 royal burgh, and a parish, 
 in the district of Cupar, 
 county of Fife, 9 miles (W.) 
 from Cupar ; containing, 
 with the village of Duashelt, 
 3356 inhabitants, of whom 
 1340 are in the burgh. This 
 place, the name of which in 
 the Gaelic language signifies 
 " the cottage of the king," 
 is supposed, from that cir- 
 cumstance, to have been ap- 
 propriated to the accommodation of part of the royal 
 household, during the kings' residence in the palace of 
 Falkland, about three miles distant. The town is situ- 
 ated on the road from Kinross to Cupar, and is irregu- 
 larly built, consisting of several ill-formed streets and 
 lanes of houses of mean appearance, many of them hav- 
 ing thatched roofs, though intermixed with some of more 
 modern and handsome character, with neat gardens 
 attached. It is inhabited by an industrious and thriving 
 population, and has a public library supported by sub- 
 scription. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in hand- 
 loom weaving for the manufacturers of Dunfermline, 
 Newburgh, and Kirkcaldy ; the principal articles are 
 linen goods, consisting of checks, drills, dowlas, sheetings, 
 and other fabrics, in making which about 1000 persons 
 are engaged. A considerable number were formerly 
 occupied in these manufactures on their own account ; 
 but only one or two establishments of the kind now 
 remain. On the banks of a rivulet near the extremity 
 of the town are a cloth and yarn bleach-field, a flour- 
 mill, and saw-mill. There are also a thriving distillery 
 and an extensive malting concern. A branch of the 
 87 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 Union Bank of Scotland has been established, as well as 
 a savings' bank. The market, which is on Monday, is 
 well supplied with grain and provisions of every kind ; 
 and fairs are held on the 2.5th of March (O. S.), the 13th 
 of July, and the 21st of August, for horses and cattle : 
 the July fair is also a statute-fair. The inhabitants were 
 first incorporated by charter of James IV., who erected 
 the town into a royal burgh ; and its liberties, as such, 
 were confirmed by James VI. : the right of sending a 
 member to parliament was lost, from disuse, some time 
 before the Union ; but it still retains its corporation, 
 and most of its other privileges. The government is 
 vested in three bailies, a treasurer, and a council of fifteen 
 members, chosen under the authority of the Municipal 
 Reform act. The magistrates have jurisdiction over the 
 whole of the royalty, and hold courts for the determina- 
 tion of civil pleas to any amount ; in criminal cases 
 their jurisdiction is confined to misdemeanors. The 
 post-office has two deliveries daily ; and facility of com- 
 munication with the neighbouring places is afforded by 
 good roads, of which the turnpike-road from Stirling to 
 St. Andrew's passes through the southern extremity of 
 the town. 
 
 The PARISH is about four miles in length, from north- 
 east to south-west, and extends from one to two miles 
 in breadth, comprising about 2900 acres, of which 220 
 are woodland and plantations, 90 undivided common, 
 and the remainder arable land and pasture. Its surface 
 is varied, in the south-east forming an extensive and 
 richly fertile plain, and in other parts rising to a consi- 
 derable elevation. In the level lands the soil is a deep 
 loam, producing abundant crops of all kinds. Of late 
 years, the system of agriculture has been brought to a 
 state of great perfection under the encouragement of the 
 Auchtermuchty Agricultural Society, which holds an 
 annual meeting in the town, on the first Monday in 
 October, for the distribution of premiums. The lands 
 have been drained and inclosed, and the farm-buildings 
 are substantial and well arranged. The pastures are 
 luxuriantly fertile, and the cattle, which are chiefly of 
 the Fifeshire black breed, bring a good price in the 
 market. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £6845. The substratum is mostly whinstone, which 
 forms the basis of the higher grounds. The plantations, 
 mainly of modern growth, are in a thriving state. Myres 
 Castle, the principal mansion in the parish, was for many 
 years the seat of the Moncrieffs, and now belongs to the 
 family of Bruce of Falkland : the building, to which a 
 considerable addition was made about the year 1830, is 
 finely situated in a park of about thirty acres. Bellevue 
 and Southfield are also pleasant residences. This jjarish 
 is ecclesiastically within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Cupar and synod of Fife : the minister's stijiend is about 
 £250, with a manse, garden, and a glebe valued at £30 
 per annum ; patrons, the Bruce family. The church, a 
 plain building erected in 1785, was enlarged by the pa- 
 trons, in 1837, at a cost of £500, and now contains 1 100 
 sittings. There are places of worship for the United 
 Presbyterian Synod and the Free Church. The paro- 
 chial school of Auchtermuchty is well attended ; th'e 
 master has a salary of £34. 4. 4. per annum, with a 
 house and garden. 
 
 AUCHTERNUD, a village, in the parish of Fod- 
 DERTY, county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 1 LO 
 inhabitants.
 
 A UC H 
 
 AUCHTERTOOL, a parish, in the district of Kirk- 
 caldy, county of Fife, 4 miles (W. by S.) from Kirk- 
 caldy ; containing, with the village of Newbigging, 530 
 inhabitants, of whom 239 are in the village of Auchter- 
 tool. This place is supposed to derive its name, signif}'- 
 ing in the Gaelic language " the high grounds on the 
 river Tiel", from its elevated situation with respect to 
 that stream. The parish is about three miles in length, 
 one mile in average breadth, and comprises about 2500 
 acres, of which 1700 are arable, and the remainder pas- 
 ture, and waste land capable of being brought into culti- 
 vation. Its surface is varied, and, towards the west, 
 rises into a range of steep acclivities called the Cullalo 
 hills, the highest of which has an elevation of "50 feet 
 above the sea, commanding an extensive prospect over a 
 richly-cultivated tract of country ; but the scenery within 
 the parish is almost destitute of beauty, from the want 
 of wood. The river Tiel has its source here ; and the 
 parish is also intersected by two streamlets which, 
 though very small, frequently, after continued rain, are 
 greatly increased, and in their course through a narrow 
 channel form beautiful cascades : one of these falls, near 
 the end of a deep and narrow dell, is truly picturesque. 
 Near the ancient mansion of Camilla, formerly the resi- 
 dence of the Countess of Moray, is an extensive loch, 
 bounded on the north side by a precipitous eminence 
 covered with furze ; and not far from it are the ruins of 
 the ancient mansion of Hallyards, still retaining traces 
 of baronial grandeur, with some portion of the planta- 
 tions of the demesne, forming a romantic feature in the 
 scenery of the lake. This sheet of water is about 
 eighteen acres in extent, and abounds with perch, eels, 
 and pike ; its greatest depth is twenty-two feet. 
 
 In the southern parts the soil is a rich loam, varying 
 from one foot to five feet in depth ; and in the north 
 and western parts-, clay, which by draining and good 
 management has been rendered nearly as fertile as the 
 loam ; and moss land, of which a large portion is of 
 great depth, and apparently incapable of being brought 
 into profitable cultivation. The chief crops are wheat, 
 barley, oats, potatoes, and turnips. The system of agri- 
 culture is in a very improved state, and draining has 
 lately been carried on with success. Considerable at- 
 tention has been paid to the rearing and feeding of 
 live-stock : the cattle are generally of the black Fifeshire 
 breed, with some of the Teeswater lately introduced ; 
 and there are a few sheep, all of the Cheviot breed. The 
 substratum is mostly whinstone, freestone, and lime- 
 stone : the whinstone is quarried, chiefly for mending the 
 roads, and occasionally for building ; the freestone is of 
 very inferior quality, and is seldom worked ; the lime- 
 stone, which is mainly found on the lands belonging to 
 the Earl of Moray and Captain Wemyss, is quarried only 
 by the tenants for their own immediate use. The village 
 of Auchtertool is neatly built ; the houses are principally 
 of stone and lime, and those of more recent erection are 
 covered with blue slate. A parochial library has been 
 established here, and a savings' bank. There was for- 
 merly a brewery of porter, ale, and table-beer, in the vil- 
 lage, for the supply of the neighbourhood ; it was long 
 in very great repute, and a large quantity of the ale was 
 sent to Kirkcaldy, and thence shipped lor the London 
 market, but the buildings are now apparently in a state 
 of decay. For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is in 
 the piesbytery of Kirkcaldy, synod of Fife, and in the 
 S8 
 
 A UL D 
 
 patronage of the Earl of Moray; the minister's stipend 
 is £157. 18. 10., with a manse in the later English style, 
 and the glebe is valued at £'20 per annum. The church, 
 which was substantially repaired in 1S33, is situated 
 within a mile of the village, and is adapted for a congre- 
 gation of about 300 persons. The parochial school 
 affords a liberal course of instruction ; the master has a 
 salary of £33. 6. 8., with £2S fees, and a good dwelling- 
 house and garden. At the west end of the loch of 
 Camilla is a mineral spring. 
 
 AUCKINGILL, a township, situated in the parish of 
 Canisbay, county of Caithness; containing '209 inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 AULDEARN, a parish, in the county of Nairn, 2j 
 miles (E. S. E.) from Nairn ; containing 1466 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom 351 are in the village. This place is said 
 by some to have derived its name, in the Gaelic supposed 
 by them to be Alt-Em, from a brook which flows through 
 it into the river Nairn, and the banks of which are 
 thickly planted with alder-trees. Shaw, in his History 
 of Moray, deduces the name of Auldearn from words 
 signifying "the iron-coloured brook"; whilst common 
 tradition derives it horn Auld A'airn, supposing the place 
 to have been the original Nairn, and much more ancient 
 than the present burgh of that name. Auldearn was the 
 head of the deanery of Moray ; and up to a compara- 
 tively recent period, Nairn was only a vicarage belonging 
 to the deans. The parish was of much greater extent 
 till the year 1650, when parts of it were annexed to the 
 parishes of Nairn, Cawdor, and Ardclach. In 1645, a 
 sanguinary battle took place near the village, between 
 the forces under the Marquess of Montrose, and a de- 
 tachment of the army of the Covenanters, commanded 
 by Hurry, and consisting of about 4000 men, when the 
 former, after an obstinate conflict, obtained a decisive 
 victory. About 800 of the Covenanters fell, and a con- 
 siderable number of the forces of the marquess ; the 
 slain on both sides were interred in a field to the south- 
 west of the village, and the spot, which has been since 
 planted, is surrounded with a moat. The parish is 
 bounded on the north by the Moray Firth, here about 
 seven miles broad, along the coast of which it extends 
 for four miles. It is six miles and a half in length from 
 north to south, and about five miles in breadth from east 
 to west, comprising 13,680 acres, of which 4778 are ara- 
 ble, 5111 meadow and pasture, 3603 woodland and 
 plantations, and 198 acres under water. The surface for 
 nearly three miles from the shore, though varying in 
 elevation, is low ; it thence rises to a considerable height 
 for nearly two miles, where it is intersected by the valley 
 of the INIuckle brook, beyond which it attains a more 
 abrupt and precipitous elevation. About half a mile 
 from the shore, to the west, is an island of sand called 
 the Bar, which is formed at high water, and is constantly 
 changing its position westward ; and opposite to it are 
 two hills of sand, about 100 feet in height, which are 
 continually changing their position towards the east, 
 without any apparent alteration in their form. 
 
 In the south-eastern part of the parish the soil is 
 luxuriantly rich ; in the south-western, of very inferior 
 quality ; and in the north-east and north-west, a heavy 
 cold loam. There are two lakes of considerable extent, 
 one of which, called Loch Lithy, covers an area of forty 
 acres, and produces abundance of rich marl ; the other, 
 Loch Loy, in the northern part of the parish, is about a 
 
 I 
 I
 
 A U LD 
 
 A VOC 
 
 mile in length and a quarter of a mile broad. There is 
 also a large tract of moss called the Moss of Inshocb, in 
 which vast quantities of roots, and sometimes entire fir- 
 trees, are found embedded. The crops are grain of all 
 kinds, potatoes, and turnips : the system of agriculture 
 has been much improved ; waste land has been drained 
 and brought into profitable cultivation, and much of the 
 inferior soil been rendered more fertile by the use of 
 marl, lime, and bone-dust manure. The cattle are of 
 the Highland breed, and the sheep of the white-faced 
 kind. The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £6148. The plantations are chiefly Scotch fir, larch, oak, 
 beech, elm, and ash, of which three last there are some 
 fine specimens at Boath and Lethen ; and to the east of 
 Inshoch is a thriving plantation of birch. The substra- 
 tum is principally sandstone, some of which is of excel- 
 lent quality ; and from a quarry on the lands of Brodie, 
 was raised the stone for the towers of the suspension 
 bridge over the river Findhorn near Forres. Near Boath 
 is found a black stone which, on the application of fire, 
 emits a flame ; and at Clune, on the lands of James C. 
 Brodie, Esq., of Lethen, are nodules of limestone, in 
 which are fossils of various kinds of fishes. 
 
 The prevailing scenery is of pleasing character, embel- 
 lished with plantations ; and the views obtained from 
 the higher grounds are extensive and richly diversified, 
 commanding the wide expanse of the Firth, the rocky 
 coasts and lofty mountains of Ross in combination with 
 those of Sutherland, and numerous other deeply inter- 
 esting features. Lethen, the seat of Mr. Brodie, is a 
 spacious and handsome mansion, finely situated in the 
 valley of the Muckle burn, and consisting of a centre 
 and two wings, erected about the commencement of the 
 last century ; the grounds are tastefully laid out, and 
 the house is embosomed in a plantation of venerable 
 beech-trees, on the summit of a thickly-wooded acclivity 
 rising from the stream. Boath,the seat of Sir Frederick 
 William Dunbar, Bart., is an elegant mansion of free- 
 stone, erected in 1830, and beautifully situated in the 
 valley of the Auldearn, near the junction of the two 
 branches of that stream. The village is neatly built, 
 and is inhabited chiefly by persons engaged in agricul- 
 ture. Fairs are held annually, for cattle and horses on 
 the first Wednesday after the 19th of June, and for 
 agricultural produce on the first Tuesday after the Inver- 
 ness fair at Martinmas ; the first of these is called St. 
 Colin's market, and the other St. John's, following 
 which are two fairs held respectively a fortnight and a 
 month after. The turnpike-road from Elgin to Inver- 
 ness passes for four miles through the parish ; and fur- 
 ther facility of communication is afforded by good roads 
 and bridges in almost every direction. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Nairn and synod of Moray : the minister's 
 stipend is £241. 5. 4., with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £12 per annum ; patron, Mr. Brodie of Brodie. The 
 church, built in 1751, and improved in 1816, is a neat 
 structure, situated close to the village, and contains 63.5 
 sittings. There are places of worship for Free Church 
 and United Presbyterian congregations. The parochial 
 school affords instruction to about 130 scholars; the 
 master has a salary of £36. 7. 2., including an allowance 
 for a garden, and the fees average £10 per annum. On 
 the higher grounds in the parish are some Druidical 
 remains, of which the most perfect, near the old castle 
 Vol. I.— 89 
 
 of Moyness, consists of two concentric circles, with a 
 slightly-rocking stone weighing about four tons ; and on 
 a small eminence designated the Black Hillock has been 
 found a kistvaen, containing a human skeleton and 
 several urns filled with ashes. Upon a farm called 
 Knock-na-Gillan, the Cummings -of Rait once seized 
 thirteen of the clan of Mackintosh who were passing 
 through the parish, and put twelve of them to death ; 
 and some time after, these hostile clans meeting at the 
 castle of Rait, in the parish of Nairn, the Mackintoshes 
 in retaliation put the whole clan of the Cummings to the 
 sword, and burnt their castle. About a mile to the 
 north of the church are the ruins of the ancient castle of 
 Inshoch, the seat of the Hays of Loch Loy ; and a mile 
 to the east of it were till lately the remains of the house 
 of Penick, the residence of the deans of Moray. 
 
 AULDFIELD, for a time a quoad sacra district, form- 
 ing part of the town of Pollockshaws, in the parish 
 of Eastwood, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew- ; 
 containing 32.52 inhabitants. — See Pollockshaws. 
 
 AUSKERRY isle, in the parish of Stronsay, 
 county of Orkney. It is situated about two miles to 
 the south of the island of Stronsay, and is small and 
 uninhabited, and appropriated to the pasturage of cattle. 
 There are some remains of a chapel, and the ruins of a 
 dwelling which bears the name of the Monk's House. 
 Kelp is manufactured in considerable quantity. 
 
 AVOCH, a parish, in the county of Ross and Cro- 
 marty, if mile (S. W. by W.) from Fortrose ; con- 
 taining 1931 inhabitants, of whom 936 are in the 
 village. This place apparently derives its name, said to 
 signify in the Gaelic language " shallow waters ", from 
 the small river on which the village is situated. The 
 parish is bounded on the south and south-east by 
 the Moray Firth, and on the south-west by the bay of 
 Munlochy ; and is about four miles and a quarter in 
 length, and three miles in extreme breadth, comprising 
 6198 acres, of which about 2500 are arable, 1500 wood- 
 land and plantations, and the remainder meadow, pasture, 
 and waste. Its surface, though generally level, with a 
 gentle acclivity from the shore of the Firth, contains a 
 portion of the Milbuy hill, which has an elevation of 
 nearly 500 feet ; and is also intersected, in the lower 
 parts, by several prominent ridges. The river from which 
 it is said to take its name rises within its limits, near a 
 pool called the Littlemilstick, and after a beautifully 
 winding course, in which the stream turns several mills, 
 falls into the Firth near the village. The coast extends 
 for about three miles, and is bounded by a high ridge of 
 rocks, projecting slightly in two points, between which 
 is a beach of sand and gravel. 
 
 The soil, which comprises almost every variety, has 
 been greatly improved, and the pastures are mostly rich ; 
 the crops are wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips, 
 with the usual grasses. Considerable attention has been 
 for some time paid to the rearing of live-stock ; and the 
 farms have been newly divided in portions adapted to 
 the ability and resources of the various tenants, by 
 which a much better system of management has been 
 introduced. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £3658. The substrata are generally of the red 
 sandstone formation, interspersed with rocks of granite ; 
 and indications of limestone occur, though none has yet 
 been wrought : there are freestone quarries in several 
 places from one of which, affording stone of a deep red 
 
 N
 
 A VOC 
 
 AVON 
 
 colour, it is supposed that the materials were taken for 
 the erection of the cathedral church of Chanonry. 
 Rosehaugh, the seat of Sir James J. R. Mackenzie of 
 Scatwell, Bart., is an elegant modern mansion, beau- 
 tifully situated on an eminence about half a mile from 
 the sea, and embellished with woods and thriving plan- 
 tations. Avoch House, a handsome mansion embosomed 
 in romantic scenery, was destroyed in 1833 by an ac- 
 cidental fire. Bay Cottage is situated near, and derives 
 its name from, the bay of Munlochy. 
 
 The village stands on the river Avoch, near its influ.x 
 into the Moray Firth, which is here about four miles in 
 breadth, and, between the promontory of Fort-George 
 on the east and the town of Inverness on the west, has 
 the appearance of a beautiful inland lake. The inha- 
 bitants are chiefly employed in fisheries, in which nine 
 boats, having each a crew of ten men, are engaged in 
 taking haddock, whiting, cod, and other fish, on the 
 coasts of Sutherland and Caithness : in the Moray Firth 
 are found oysters, flounders, and halibut. After sup- 
 plying the neighbourhood, the remainder of the fish are 
 sent to the Inverness market. During the season, com- 
 mencing about the middle of July, the fishermen of this 
 place send thirty-five boats to the herring-fishery at 
 Caithness, from which they return some years with 
 from £20 to £50 each of clear gain, while in other years 
 few are able to cover the necessary expenses. In the 
 intervals of the fishing season, the inhabitants are em- 
 ployed in making nets, not only for their own use, but 
 also for the fishing-stations in the north and west 
 Highlands. The harbour that is formed near the 
 mouth of the river affords good anchorage and shelter 
 for the boats, and a substantial pier has been constructed, 
 at which vessels of considerable burthen land cargoes of 
 coal from Newcastle ; it is also safely accessible to 
 trading vessels, which, from London, Leith, Aberdeen, 
 and Dundee, regularly touch at the port. There are 
 two salmon-fisheries, one on the estate of Rosehaugh, 
 and the other on the estate of Avoch. In Munlochy 
 bay, mussels are found in profusion. Facility of com- 
 munication is afforded by the turnpike-road from Fort- 
 George ferry to the western coast of Ross-shire, which 
 passes through the village and the southern part of the 
 parish, leading to Kessock ferry on the west, and to the 
 town of Dingwall on the north-west. Ecclesiastically 
 the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Chanonry and synod of Ross : the minister's stipend 
 is £249. 9. 6., with a manse, and a glebe valued at 
 £7. 10. per annum : patron. Sir J. J. R. Mackenzie. The 
 church, a neat plain structure, erected in 16/0, enlarged 
 in 1792, and repaired in 1833, is situated close to the 
 village, and contains 600 sittings. There is a place of 
 worship for Independents. The parochial school is well 
 conducted ; the master has a salary of £30, with a house 
 and garden, and the fees average between £20 and £30 
 per annum. 
 
 There are some slight remains of the ancient castle of 
 Avoch, consisting chiefly of the site, occupying a rocky 
 knoll on the northern promontory of the bay of Mun- 
 lochy, and distinguished by the rubbish of ruined walls 
 which surrounded the summit of the hill. It was the 
 residence of the lord of Moray, who died in 133S. The 
 castle subsequently passed to the Earls of Ross, on 
 whose forfeiture it was annexed to the crown, and was 
 granted by James III. to his second son, the Marquess 
 90 
 
 of Onnond, from which circumstance the knoll was 
 called Ormoud's Mount. The lower story, or dungeon, 
 of the Tower of Arkendeith, supposed to have been built 
 by the Bruces of Kinloss, is also remaining. Chambers 
 of Ormond, the Scottish historian, was born in the 
 parish ; and Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who discovered 
 the river in America which is called by his name, resided 
 for many years at Avoch House, and was interred here. 
 AVONDALE, a parish, in the Middle ward of the 
 county of Lanark ; containing, with the market-town of 
 Strathaven, 6180 inhabitants. The proper name of this 
 parish, which, from its including the market-town, has 
 been called sometimes Strathaven, and by contraction 
 Straven, is Avondale, an appellation derived from its 
 position on the river Avon, by which it is divided into 
 two nearly equal parts. The barony of Avondale was 
 anciently the property of the Baird family, and subse- 
 quently belonged to the Earl of Douglas, on whose 
 forfeiture in 1455 it was granted by James III. to 
 Andrew Stewart, whom he created Lord Avondale, and 
 who exchanged it for the barony of Ochiltree with Sir 
 James Hamilton, in whose family it has ever since 
 remained. The place has derived some historical cele- 
 brity from the defeat of the troops under General 
 Claverhouse, at Drumclog, by a congregation of Cove- 
 nanters who had assembled there for public worship on 
 Sunday, the 1st of June, 1679, and, anticipating an 
 attack by the former, who were stationed at Strathaven, 
 had provided themselves with arras for their defence. 
 On the approach of Claverhouse with his dragoons, the 
 armed part of the congregation went forward to meet 
 him, and taking post on soft level ground, having before 
 them a rivulet, over which the general had to pass, and 
 of which the bank was from its softness impassable to 
 the cavalry, defeated his forces with considerable loss, 
 the general himself escaping with difficulty. In 1820, 
 the place was disturbed by a few rioters (old men and 
 boys) under the command of James Wilson, who, upon 
 false intelligence that a rebellion against the government 
 had broken out in Glasgow, marched thither to join the 
 insurgents ; but they were instantly dispersed, and their 
 leader, who was made prisoner, was brought to the 
 scaffold, and suffered the penalty of his folly. 
 
 The parish comprises about 32,000 acres, of which 
 15,000 are arable, and the remainder, with the exception 
 of some tracts of moss and marsh land, formerly more 
 extensive, is in pasture. Its surface is generally level, 
 rising gently from the banks of the river towards the 
 south and west, and partially intersected with ridges and 
 small hills, the highest of which, situated towards the 
 borders of Ayrshire, scarcely attain an elevation of more 
 than 900 feet above the sea. Of these the most pro- 
 minent are Kype's rigg, and Hawkwood and Dungivel 
 hills, with the picturesque but smaller eminences of 
 Floors hills and Kirkhill. The Avon, which rises on 
 the confines of Ayrshire, in its course through the parish 
 receives numerous tributary streams, the chief being the 
 Cadder and Pomilion on the north, and the Givel, the 
 Lochan, and the Kype on the south : the waters of the 
 Kype, about a mile south of the town, are precipitated 
 from a height of nearly fifty feet, forming an interesting 
 fall. In all these streams trout is abundant. Salmon 
 were formerly found in the Avon, even at its source ; 
 but latterly their progress upward has been intercepted. 
 The scenery of the parish, though destitute of orna-
 
 AVON 
 
 AYR 
 
 mental wood, is pleasiugly varied, and in many parts 
 picturesque. 
 
 The soil is generally fertile. The crops comprise oats 
 and barley, with some wheat ; potatoes are also raised 
 in great quantities, and are sold for seed ; but though 
 the soil is extremely favourable for turnips, they are not 
 much cultivated. There are numerous dairy-farms, and 
 the pastures throughout the parish are luxuriant ; great 
 numbers of cows, principally of the Ayrshire breed, are 
 pastured here, and there are at present not less than 
 2000 acres of undivided common. The Clydesdale breed 
 of horses is reared here in considerable numbers. Many 
 improvements have been made in draining ; and the 
 whole' of Strathaven moss, comprising above 200 acres 
 of unprofitable land, has been reclaimed, affording more 
 valuable crops than any other portion of the parish. 
 The parish is capable of very great improvement : by 
 judicious draining, and inclosing with hedge-rows and 
 belts of planting, not only would its aspect be improved, 
 but in twenty years the rental might be doubled. A 
 tile-work has been built at Drumclog within the last 
 few years. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £24,785. Whinstone abounds, as does also 
 ironstone ; and limestone is found in several parts, and 
 burnt for agricultural purposes : coal is also found in 
 the neighbourhood of the limekilns, in considerable 
 quantity, and of a quality sufficient for burning the lime, 
 but not adapted to household use. The moors abound 
 with grouse and other game, and the Duke of Hamilton 
 has an extensive tract of pasture land for sheep, which is 
 kept for grouse shooting ; partridges are also numerous 
 in the lower lands, and plovers and wild ducks are every 
 where abundant. Besides the two turnpike-roads lead- 
 ing westward towards Ayr and Muirkirk, there are 
 parish roads with the necessary bridges, to the extent of 
 sixty miles, all in good repair : the bridges, however, are 
 in general too narrow. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Hamilton, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the 
 patronage of the Duke of Hamilton. The minister's 
 stipend is £305. 2. 6., with a manse, and the glebe is 
 valued at £24 per annum. There is also an assistant 
 minister, appointed by his grace, to whom a stipend of 
 500 marks is paid, according to the will of the late 
 " good Duchess Anne "; he visits the sick, and catechises 
 the parishioners. The church, erected in 1772, is a 
 plain edifice with an unfinished spire, adapted for a 
 congregation of 800 persons. Under the auspices of the 
 present minister, an additional church has been erected 
 for 900 persons, at an expense of £1400, to which a 
 district called East Strathaven has been assigned, and 
 which is supplied by a minister appointed by the con- 
 gregation. There are places of worship for the United 
 Presbyterian Synod. The parochial school affords an 
 efficient education ; the master's salary is £34. 4. 4., 
 with £36 from fees, and a good house and garden. 
 There is also a parochial school for East Strathaven. 
 Some remains of a Roman road may be traced on the 
 south side of the river Avon, passing by the farm of 
 Walesley ; and on the lands of Genncrhill, small coins 
 and Roman sandals have been discovered. Roman coins 
 have also been found on the lands of Torfoot, near 
 Loudoun hill, supposed to have been in the line of the 
 Romans, in their route through the Caledonian forest, 
 towards the western coast. 
 91 
 
 Seal and Arms. 
 
 AYR, a sea- port, burgh, 
 and market-town, in the dis- 
 trict of Kyle, county of 
 Ayh, of which shire it is the 
 capital, 87 miles (S. W.byW.) 
 from Edinburgh, and 40 
 (S. S. W.) from Glasgow ; 
 containing 8264 inhabitants, 
 and,includingNewton-upon- 
 Ayr and Wallacetown on 
 the opposite side of the river 
 Ayr, which are within the 
 parliamentary boundary of 
 Ayr, upwards of 18,000 inhabitants. This place derives 
 its name from the river on which it is situated, and 
 appears to have attained a considerable degree of note 
 at a very early period. A castle was erected here by 
 ■William the Lion, to which reference is made in the 
 charter subsequently granted to the town by that 
 monarch ; and from the importance of its situation, it 
 was besieged and taken by Edward L during his inva- 
 sion of Scotland. In 12S9, Robert Bruce, on the hostile 
 approach of an English army towards the town, finding 
 himself unable to withstand their progress, set fire to 
 the castle, to prevent its falling into their hands ; and 
 at present there are no vestiges of it remaining. During 
 the usurpation of Cromwell, a very spacious and 
 strongly-fortified citadel was erected here as a military 
 station for his troops, for the maintenance and security 
 of the town and harbour of Ayr, which at that time 
 were of great importance, as enabling him to hold the 
 western and southern parts of the county in subjec- 
 tion ; and of this fort the greater part is still in good 
 preservation. 
 
 The TOWN is finely situated on a wide level plain, on 
 the sea-coast, and at the head of the beautiful bay of 
 Ayr, by which it is bounded on the west. The more 
 ancient part consists of houses irregularly built, and of 
 antique appearance ; but that portion which is of more 
 modern origin contains numerous handsome ranges of 
 buildings, among which may be noticed Wellington- 
 square, Alloway-place, Barns-street, and a spacious and 
 well-built street leading to the new bridge. 'Very great 
 improvements have been made in the aspect of the town, 
 which is seen to much advantage from the higher 
 grounds, and more especially on the approach from the 
 south ; and many agreeable villas have been erected in 
 the vicinity, which are embellished with shrubs and 
 trees. The principal streets are well paved, and lighted 
 with gas ; and the inhabitants are amply supplied with 
 water, partly from numerous wells opened in convenient 
 situations, and partly from a softer spring, in Carrick, 
 by pipes laid down for that purpose. The environs are 
 extremely pleasing, abounding with richly-diversified 
 scenery, embracing fine views of the sea, and many in- 
 teresting features. There are two bridges over the river 
 Ayr, celebrated by the poet Burns in his Twa Brigs of Ayr, 
 one of which, erected about sixty or seventy years ago, 
 is a very handsome structure, affording communication 
 with the towns of Newton-upon-Ayr and 'Wallacetown. 
 The beach, which is a fine level sand, is much frequented 
 as a promenade, and contributes greatly to render the 
 town desirable as a place of residence. 
 
 There are two libraries supported by subscription, con- 
 taining good collections of standard and periodical works, 
 
 N2
 
 AYR 
 
 AYR 
 
 and newsrooms or reading-rooms well supplied with 
 journals ; and a mechanics' institution established in 
 1S25, with a library attached of more than 3000 volumes, 
 for the increase of which a specific sum is annually 
 appropriated. Races are annually held by the Western 
 Meeting, in the first week in September, on an excellent 
 course in the immediate vicinity of the town, comprising 
 about fifty acres inclosed with a stone wall ; and the 
 members of the Caledonian Hunt hold a meeting here 
 once in five years. Two packs of fox-hounds, and a 
 pack of harriers, are kept in the neighbourhood. As- 
 semblies are held in an elegant and spacious suite of 
 rooms, admirably adapted for that purpose, in the 
 Town's Buildings, a stately edifice embellished with a 
 spire (with clock) rising to the height of 226 feet : it 
 contains, in addition to the assembly-rooms, two large 
 newsrooms, rooms for town's meetings, and various 
 apartments for public purposes. There is also a hand- 
 some structure in the early English style called Wallace 
 Tower, erected on the site of an ancient building that 
 bore the same name : this tower is 1 15 feet in height, 
 and is adorned in the front with a well-sculptured statue 
 of Wallace by Thom ; it contains a clock, and forms a 
 conspicuous object in the distant view of the town. The 
 Ayrshire Horticultural and Agricultural Society was es- 
 tablished in 1815, under the auspices and patronage of 
 the late Lord Eglinton, for the distribution of prizes 
 for the best specimens of flowers, fruit, and vegetables, 
 and for improvements in husbandry and agricultural 
 implements ; exhibitions are annually held, and attached 
 to the institution is a library. A Medical Association 
 has also been founded by members of that profession 
 resident in the town and neighbourhood, the library of 
 which contains a selection of the most valuable works 
 on medical literature. The Barracks, an extensive range 
 of building near the harbour, pleasantly situated on a 
 fine level plain, are adapted for the reception of a regi- 
 ment of infantry, and during the late war were fully 
 occupied by the military stationed here ; but since the 
 peace they have been unoccupied. There are public 
 baths at Ayr. 
 
 On the summit of the bank of the river Doon, about 
 two miles from Ayr, is a stately monument in honour 
 of the poet Burns, erected by subscription at an expense 
 of £2000, and consisting of a circular building, rising 
 from a triangular basement fifteen feet in height, to an 
 elevation of more than sixty feet. It is surrounded by 
 nine Corinthian pillars with an enriched cornice, sup- 
 porting a cupola, which is surmounted by a gilt tripod 
 resting upon dolphins ; and a window of stained glass 
 gives light to a circular apartment eighteen feet in dia- 
 meter, in which are a portrait of the poet, an elegant 
 edition of his works, and various paintings illustrative 
 of the principal scenes and descriptions in his poems. 
 Opposite to the entrance is a semicircular recess deco- 
 rated with columns of the Doric order, intended for the 
 reception of his statue ; and in the grounds, comprising 
 an area of about two acres, disposed in gravel-walks and 
 shrubberies, and embellished with plantations of every 
 variety of forest-trees, are placed in a handsome building 
 for the purpose the well-known statues of Tam O'Shan- 
 ter and Souter Johnny, executed by the late James 
 Thom, and exhibited, previously to being deposited here, 
 in almost every town of Britain. The Burns Monument 
 was designed by Mr. Hamilton, and finished in 1823. 
 9i 
 
 Notwithstanding the very advantageous situation of 
 the town, which stands in the midst of a richly-culti- 
 vated district abounding in mineral wealth, and com- 
 mands extensive means of communication both by sea 
 and land, the town has never been much distinguished 
 for its manufactures. A principal manufacture carried 
 on here is that of shoes, which has for some years very 
 much diminished, aEFordiug employment at present to 
 little more than 200 persons. The working of muslins 
 in varieties of patterns, for the Glasgow manufacturers, 
 is carried on to a considerable extent, occupying about 
 300 persons at their own dwellings. Weaving with the 
 hand-loom, for manufacturers in distant towns, employs 
 about 150 persons ; and tanning and currying are car- 
 ried on upon a limited scale. A spacious factory for 
 the spinning of wool and the manufacture of carpets, 
 has been established by Mr. Templeton, which origi- 
 nated in a small establishment for the spinning of cot- 
 ton-yarn ; since its application to the present use, the 
 building has been enlarged, and supplied with the most 
 improved machinery of every kind, and the concern at 
 present afiFords employment to 200 persons. A mill for 
 carding, spinning, and weaving wool for plaids and 
 blankets, has been also erected ; the machinery is im- 
 pelled by water, and about thirty persons are employed. 
 
 The foreign trade of the port consists almost entirely 
 in the exportation of coal, and the importation of hemp, 
 mats, tallow, tar, iron, pitch, timber, and other commo- 
 dities ; the number of vessels engaged in this trade is 
 about eighteen. About 300 vessels are employed in the 
 coasting trade, which is carried on to a very considerable 
 extent ; the imports are corn, groceries, hardware, iron, 
 lead, haberdasheries, and other wares, and the exports 
 are coal, corn, wool, and agricultural produce. In a 
 late year, 739 vessels, of 62,730 tons' aggregate burthen, 
 cleared out from the port, exclusively of steam-boats : 
 3136 quarters of wheat, 306 cwt. of flour, 11,145 quar- 
 ters of oats, 5623 cwt. of meal, 318 quarters of barley, 
 643 quarters of beans, and fifty-one quarters of peas, 
 were brought into the port in the year ; and 60,000 tons 
 of coal, 55" 1 quarters of wheat, 5586 cwt. of flour, 
 eighty-seven quarters of oats, 3178 cwt. of oatmeal, 
 eighty- four quarters of barley, and 183 quarters of 
 beans, were shipped coastwise. The port appears to 
 have been distinguished at an early period, and ships 
 are said to have been built here by several of the kings 
 of Scotland. The harbour is capacious, and affords 
 good accommodation for vessels, but the entrance is 
 somewhat obstructed by a bar thrown up by the accu- 
 mulation of alluvial deposit, for the removal of which 
 considerable sums have been expended with great effect. 
 A wall was raised, nearly twenty feet in height, taper- 
 ing from a base nearly thirty feet in breadth to about 
 eight feet on the summit, and extending nearly 300 
 yards into the sea, on the south side ; and a similar 
 pier on the north side, parallel to the former, was like- 
 wise erected, at a very great expense, and recently 
 enlarged. By these means the harbour has been con- 
 siderably improved : and to render it still more com- 
 plete, a breakwater has been partly erected at the mouth 
 of the harbour, stretching still further into the sea, and 
 which it is estimated will be completed at an expense of 
 about £4000. The depth of w-ater is from fourteen to 
 sixteen feet, at ordinary spring tides ; and about eighty 
 sail of ships may lie in perfect safety within the bar.
 
 AYR 
 
 AYR 
 
 The rivers Ayr and Doon abound with excellent sal- 
 mon, and considerable quantities are taken with drags, 
 and afterwards with stake-nets, and, besides affording 
 an abundant supply for the town and neighbourhood, 
 are sent to the Glasgow, Edinburgh, and London mar- 
 kets ; the fishery in the Doon is let for £235, and the 
 other for £45 per annum. The fisheries off the coast 
 are extensive, and at present twenty boats, each ma- 
 naged by four men, are employed in taking cod, ling, 
 haddock, whiting, turbot, skate, flounders, mackerel, 
 and herrings, which last are taken only during the 
 summer months : soles, red gurnet, and large conger- 
 eels are found occasionally. The post-office has several 
 deliveries daily, and the utmost facility of intercourse is 
 maintained with the neighbouring towns, and with 
 England and Ireland. The roads are kept in excellent 
 order ; and the trade of the place has been much im- 
 proved by the formation of a railroad to Glasgow, for 
 which there is an appropriate station on the north bank 
 of the river, near the new bridge, having a frontage of 
 eighty-four feet, with every accommodation for goods 
 and passengers. The market-days are Tuesday and 
 Friday ; the markets are amply supplied with grain and 
 provisions of every kind, and four annual fairs are held 
 for cattle, horses, sheep, and agricultural produce. 
 
 The charter of incorporation was first granted in 
 the year 1202, by William the Lion, who conferred upon 
 the burgesses the whole of the lands of the parish, with 
 many valuable privileges. This charter was confirmed 
 by Alexander II., who added the adjoining parish of 
 Alloway, and extended the jurisdiction of the magistrates 
 over the two parishes ; and Robert Bruce, by a charter 
 dated at Dunfermline, ratified all the grants of his pre- 
 decessors, and erected Alloway into a barony, of which 
 the corporation were the lords. Under these charters, 
 the government of the burgh is vested in a provost, two 
 bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and twelve council- 
 lors, of which last number ten were formerly of the 
 merchants' guild, and two of the trades'. The provost, 
 bailies, and dean of guild are ex officio justices of the 
 peace of the county. Until lately the burgh magistrates 
 were elected from the guild brethren, who formed the 
 council, by whom all the officers of the corporation were 
 appointed ; but the magistrates and councillors are now 
 chosen agreeably with the provisions of the Municipal 
 Reform act, by the parliamentary voters within the limits 
 of the municipal burgh. The incorporated trade guilds 
 were nine in number, and were styled the squaremen, 
 hammermen, tailors, skinners, coopers, weavers, shoe- 
 makers, dyers, and butchers. The magistrates have 
 jurisdiction in civil and criminal cases, but confine the 
 latter to petty misdemeanors ; they hold courts weekly 
 for civil and criminal causes. The more important 
 cases are instituted in the sheriff's court, held every 
 Tuesday from May to July, and from October to April : 
 the number of causes in this court averages about 500 
 in the year, and very few of them are removed into the 
 court of session, or supreme court. A sheriff court for 
 the recovery of debts not exceeding £8. 6. 8. is held 
 every Thursday ; and a court every Monday chiefly for 
 breaches of the peace. A dean-of-guild court is holden 
 occasionally. These courts are held in the Court- House 
 or County-Hall, on the north-west side of Wellington- 
 square, a spacious and elegant building after the model 
 of the temple of Isis at Rome, erected within the last 
 93 
 
 thirty or forty years, at an expense of more than £30,000. 
 The front is embellished with a portico of massive 
 circular columns, affording an entrance into a lobby, 
 lighted by an ample and stately dome rising to a con- 
 siderable height above the building, which consists of 
 two stories. The interior comprises the requisite offices 
 for persons connected with the proceedings, arranged on 
 the ground floor ; while the upper story, to which is an 
 ascent by a noble circular staircase, contains two spa- 
 cious halls, with rooms for the judges and barristers, 
 and retiring-rooms for the juries and witnesses. Of 
 these halls, one is appropriated to the business of the 
 courts, and the other chiefly used as a banqueting or 
 assembly room ; the latter is splendidly fitted up, and 
 is embellished with a portrait of the late Lord Eglinton 
 as colonel of the Royal Highland regiment, of Lord 
 Glasgow, late lord-lieutenant of Ayrshire, and Mr. Hamil- 
 ton, late convener of the county. The prisons for the 
 burgh and county are spacious and well ventilated, and 
 the arrangement is adapted for the classification of the 
 prisoners, who are regularly employed in various trades, 
 and receive a portion of their earnings on leaving the 
 prison. Ayr is the head of a parliamentary district 
 comprising the burghs of Irvine, Campbelltown, In- 
 verary, and Oban, which are associated with it in 
 returning a member to the imperial parliament : the 
 right of election, previously vested in the corporation, 
 is now, by the act of William IV., extended to the £10 
 proprietors and householders ; the sheriff is the return- 
 ing officer, and the present number of voters in the 
 parliamentary burgh of Ayr is about 420. 
 
 The PARISH, including Alloway, forms part of an ex- 
 tensive and richly-cultivated valley, and comprises about 
 5000 acres. It is bounded on the north by the river 
 Ayr, which separates it from the parishes of Newton 
 and St. Quivox ; on the south-west by the river Doon ; 
 and on the west by the sea. Towards the sea the 
 surface is generally flat for about two miles, beyond 
 which it rises by a gentle ascent to a considerable eleva- 
 tion, forming a range of hills that inclose the vale, and 
 terminate towards the south-west in the loftier chain of 
 Brown Carrick, which projects into the sea in some 
 precipitous rocky headlands called the Heads of Ayr. 
 The river Ayr, which has its rise in the eastern extremity 
 of the county, divides the valley in which the parish is 
 situated into two nearly equal parts, and flows between 
 banks richly embellished with plantations and pleasing 
 villas. It is subject to violent floods, and in its course 
 to the sea conveys great quantities of alluvial soil, 
 which, accumulating at its mouth, and to some extent 
 obstructing the entrance to the harbour, is removed by 
 the means formerly mentioned. The river Doon has its 
 source in a lake of that name, to the south-east, on the 
 confines of the stewartry of Kirkcudbright, and in its 
 progress displays many strikingly romantic features. A 
 small stream called the Glengaiv burn flows between the 
 ancient parishes of Ayr and Alloway ; and numerous 
 springs are every where found, at a small depth from 
 the surface, affording an abundant supply of water, but 
 not well adapted for domestic use, containing carbonate 
 and sulphate of lime, with some traces of iron in combi- 
 nation. Close to the eastern border of the parish is 
 Loch Fergus, about a mile in circumference, and abound- 
 ing with pike : near the margin were formerly the ruins 
 of an ancient building of a castellated form, which have
 
 AYR 
 
 AYR 
 
 been long since removed to furnish materials for the 
 erection of farm-buildings, and in the centre of the lake 
 is a small island, the resort of wild ducks and other aqua- 
 tic fowl. 
 
 The scenery is interspersed with numerous pleasing 
 villas and stately residences. Among these are, Castle- 
 hill, commanding a fine view of the town and bay ; 
 Belmont Cottage, embosomed in trees ; Doonholme, with 
 its richly-planted demesne extending along the banks 
 of the river ; Rozelle, a stately mansion surrounded 
 with trees of venerable growth ; Belle-isle, an elegant 
 castellated mansion with turrets, rising above the trees 
 by which it is surrounded ; and Mount Charles, with its 
 flourishing plantations crowning the precipitous bank 
 of the river Doon. The beautiful bay of Ayr is remark- 
 able for the scenery it discloses. To the north are the 
 islands of Cumbray, the Bute hills, and the Argyllshire 
 mountains, with the summit of Ben-Lomond in the dis- 
 tance. To the west are seen the coast of Ireland, and, 
 near the Ayrshire coast, the Craig of Ailsa, rising pre- 
 cipitously from a base two miles in circumference, to a 
 height of 1000 feet above the level of the sea by which it 
 is surrounded. The island of Arran with its lofty moun- 
 tains, behind which is seen the Mull of Cantyre, also forms 
 a conspicuous and interesting feature in the view. 
 
 The soil, varies in different parts of the parish ; but 
 from the progressive improvements in agriculture, and 
 the extensively adopted practice of tile-draining, the 
 lands have been rendered generally fertile, and a con- 
 siderable quantity of unprofitable land has been made 
 productive. The greater portion is under tillage, and 
 produces abundant crops of grain of all kinds, with 
 turnips and other green crops. Considerable attention 
 is paid to the rearing of live-stock ; the sheep are chiefly 
 of the Leicestershire and Cheviot breeds, and the cattle, 
 with the exception of a few of the short-horned kind, 
 are of the genuine Ayrshire breed, which has been 
 brought to great perfection. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £24,664. The substratum is 
 mostly trap and whinstone, of which the rocks princi- 
 pally consist. Coal is prevalent, but the working of it 
 has not been found profitable in this parish, though it 
 has been extensively wrought in the parishes adjoining. 
 Red sandstone and freestone also exist, and the latter 
 was formerly quarried. Some beautiful specimens of 
 agate are found upon the shore ; and in the bed of the 
 river occurs a peculiar species of claystone with small 
 grains of dark felspar and mica, which is frequently 
 used for polishing marble and metals, and as a hone for 
 giving a fine edge to cutting tools. 
 
 The parishes of Ayr and Alloway were united towards 
 the close of the seventeenth century. The church of 
 Ayr, which had been made collegiate in the reign of 
 Mary, afforded sufficient accommodation for the whole 
 population ; and divine service, which, for some time 
 after the union of the parishes, was performed in the 
 church of Alloway every third Sunday, was finally 
 restricted to the church of Ayr. For ecclesiastical 
 purposes the parish is within the bounds of the pres- 
 bytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The 
 stipend of the incumbent of the first charge is £1*8. 5., 
 including half the interest of a sum of £1000 bequeathed 
 for the equal benefit of both ministers ; with a manse, a 
 comfortable modern residence. The second minister 
 has also a stipend, including £20 interest money above 
 94 
 
 stated, £82. 15. 8. received from the public exchequer, 
 and £108. 6. 8. paid from the funds of the burgh ; with 
 an allowance for a manse. The Old church was erected 
 about the middle of the seventeenth century, to supply 
 the place of the church of St. John, which had been 
 desecrated by Cromwell, and converted into an armoury 
 for the fort that he erected around the site. It is a sub- 
 stantial edifice, but greatly inferior to the original church 
 in elegance of design. The New church was erected in 
 1810, at an expense of nearly £6000, and is a handsome 
 edifice. The two churches together are capable of 
 accommodating from 2000 to 2500 persons. There are 
 places of worship for members of the Free Church, the 
 United Presbyterian Synod, Wesleyans, United Original 
 Seceders, Reformed Congregation, Episcopalians, and 
 Moravians. The parochial schools of the burgh, by a 
 charter in 1*98, were incorporated into an institution 
 called the Academy, and a handsome and capacious 
 building was erected with funds raised by contributions 
 from the heritors, and subscriptions. It is conducted 
 under the superintendence of a committee of directors, 
 by a rector who has a salary of £100 per annum, and 
 three masters with salaries of about £20 each ; the 
 course of instruction is comprehensive, and the number 
 of pupils averages about 500. A school in which about 
 200 children are taught, is supported by the produce of 
 a bequest of £2000 by Captain Smith, under the direc- 
 tion of the two ministers and the magistrates. 
 
 The hospital for the poor, or Poor's House, was 
 erected in 1*59, at the expense of the corporation, aided 
 by subscription, for the reception of the infirm and 
 helpless poor ; it is conducted by a master and mistress 
 with a salary of £S0. A dispensary was estabhshed in 
 1817, which afforded medical assistance to more than 
 500 patients annually, and a fever hospital has been 
 lately built, with which the dispensary is now conjoined : 
 the subscriptions amount to about £300 per annum. A 
 savings' bank was instituted in 1815; the present 
 amount of deposits is about £3000, and the number of 
 contributors *00 : the gross amount of deposits, since 
 its commencement, exceeds £30,000. Numerous charita- 
 ble benefactions have been made, the principal of which 
 are, a bequest by Mr. Patterson, of Ayr, to the Glasgow 
 Infirmary, of £500, in consideration of which the parish 
 is privileged to send four patients to that institution ; 
 an ann»ial income of £55, derived from a bequest left by 
 Mr. Smith, a native of this town, and alderman of Lon- 
 donderry in Ireland, distributed among poor persons ; 
 a bequest of £300 by Mr. James Dick, the interest of 
 which is similarly distributed among the poor ; the 
 farm of Sessionfield, consisting of 100 acres, bequeathed 
 by Sir Robert Blackwood, of Edinburgh, a native of this 
 parish, the produce of which is distributed among poor 
 householders; a bequest of £1000 by Mrs. Crawford, 
 for reduced females ; a bequest of £300 by Captain 
 Tennant, to the Poor-house ; a bequest of £5 annually 
 to ten females, by Miss Ballantine, of Castle-hill ; and a 
 bequest of £1000 to the poor of the parish, by Mr. Fer- 
 guson of Doonholme. 
 
 There are remains of the church of St. John, within 
 the area of Cromwell's fort, consisting of the tower ; 
 and also of the old church of Alloway, of which the 
 walls are entire. The moat of Alloway may be traced, 
 on the approach to Doonholme House : on its summit, 
 according to ancient records, courts of justice were
 
 A Y R S 
 
 A Y RS 
 
 held for the trial of petty offences. There are evident 
 traces of the old Roman road leading from Galloway 
 into the county of Ayr, and passing within half a mile of 
 the town : portions of it are still in tolerable preserva- 
 tion. A tract on the coast, called the Battle Fields, is sup- 
 posed to have been the scene of a fierce conflict between 
 the natives and the Romans. Both Roman and British 
 implements of war, urns of baked clay, and numerous 
 other relics of Roman antiquity, have been found at this 
 place. Coins of Charles II. were discovered under the 
 foundation of the old market-cross, a handsome struc- 
 ture of hexagonal form, removed in 178B. 
 
 Johannes Scotus, who flourished in the ninth century, 
 eminent for his proficiency in Greek and oriental litera- 
 ture, and who was employed by Alfred the Great to 
 restore learning at O.vford ; and Andrew Michael Ramsay, 
 better known as the Chevalier Ramsay, the friend of 
 Fenelon, Bishop of Cambray, were natives of Ayr. John 
 Loudon McAdam, celebrated for his improvements in 
 the construction of roads, and David Cathcart, Lord 
 Allnway, one of the lords of session and of the high 
 court of justiciary, were also natives j and John Mair, 
 author of a system of book-keeping, and Dr. Thomas 
 Jackson, professor of natural philosophy in the univer- 
 sity of St. Andrew's, and author of several valuable 
 works, were connected with the town. But the most 
 celebrated name connected with the place, is that of 
 Robert Burns, who was born at Alloway, in the 
 parish, in a cottage which is still remaining. On the 
 6th of August, 1844, the town of Ayr was the scene of 
 great rejoicings, occasioned by a national festival being 
 held in the neighbourhood, on that day, in honour of the 
 memory of Burns, and to greet the three sons and the 
 sister of the bard. At an early hour of the morning, 
 visiters from all parts of Scotland and many from 
 England and Ireland had arrived, to join in or be spec- 
 tators of the proceedings ; and a grand procession was 
 shortly formed, which passed from the town along a 
 road thronged with people, to the more immediate scene 
 of the events of the day, the banks of the river Doon. 
 Here, in the vicinity of the poet's birth-place, beside the 
 old kirk of Alloway which his muse has immortalized, 
 and beneath the monument raised by his admiring 
 countrymen, the procession closed ; and not long after- 
 wards a banquet was partaken of by above 2000 persons, 
 including many visiters of distinguished talent, in a 
 large pavilion 120 feet square, that had been specially 
 erected in a field adjoining the monument. Numerous 
 appropriate speeches, some of considerable eloquence, 
 were made upon the occasion. That of the Earl of 
 Eglinton, lord-lieutenant of the county, who presided, 
 and that of the croupier. Professor Wilson, were par- 
 ticularly remarkable ; and the whole of the proceedings 
 were characterized by the utmost enthusiasm, and by an 
 universal desire to merge every individual feeling, that the 
 day might be truly devoted to its own peculiar object. 
 
 AYRSHIRE, an extensive county, on the western 
 coast of Scotland, bounded on the north by Renfrew- 
 shire, on the east by the counties of Lanark and Dum- 
 fries, on the south by the stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 
 and Wigtonshire, and on the west by the Firth of Clyde 
 and the Irish Channel. It lies between 54° 40' and 55° 
 52' (N. lat.), and 4° and 5° (W. long.), and is about 
 sixty miles in length and nearly thirty in extreme 
 breadth, comprising an area of about 1600 square miles, 
 95 
 
 or 1,024,000 acres; containing 31,497 houses, of which 
 30,125 are inhabited ; and a population of 164,356, of 
 whom 7S,9S3 are males, and 85,373 females. This 
 county, which includes the three districts of Carrick, 
 Kyle, and Cunninghame, was originally inhabited by 
 the Damnii, with whom, after the departure of the 
 Romans, were mingled a colony of Scots, who emigrated 
 from Ireland, and settled in the peninsula of Cantyre, 
 in the county of Argyll. In the eighth century, the 
 Saxon kings of Northumbria obtained possession of this 
 part of the country ; and in the reign of David I., Hugh 
 de Morville, who had emigrated from England, and was 
 made by that monarch constable of Scotland, received 
 a grant of the whole district of Cunninghame, in which 
 he placed many of his English vassals. Previously to 
 their final defeat at the battle of Largs, in 1263, the 
 county was frequently invaded by the Danes ; and 
 during the wars with Edward of England, it was the 
 scene of many of the exploits of William Wallace in 
 favour of Robert Bruce, who was a native of the county, 
 and obtained by marriage the earldom of Carrick, which, 
 on his accession to the throne, merged into the property 
 of the crown. The change in the principles of religion, 
 which led to the Reformation, appears to have first de- 
 veloped itself in this county ; and Kyle is noticed by 
 the reformer Knox as having at a very early period em- 
 braced the reformed doctrine. 
 
 Before episcopacy was abolished, the county was in- 
 cluded in the diocese of Glasgow ; it is now almost 
 entirely in the synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and comprises 
 several presbyteries, and forty-six parishes. Within its 
 limits are the royal burghs of Ayr (which is the county 
 town) and Irvine ; the towns of Largs, Beith, Ardros- 
 san, Saltcoats, Kilwinning, Kilmarnock, Mauchline, 
 Catrine, Old and New Cumnock, Muirkirk, Maybole, 
 and Girvan ; and numerous large and populous villages. 
 Under the act of the 2nd of William IV., the county 
 returns one member to the imperial parliament. The 
 surface is varied. In the district of Cunninghame, 
 which includes the northern portion, it is comparatively 
 level ; in Kyle, which occupies the central portion, it is 
 hilly and uneven, though containing some large tracts 
 of fertile and well cultivated land ; and the district of 
 Carrick, in the south, is wild and mountainous. The 
 principal mountains are, Knockdolian, which has an 
 elevation of 2000 feet above the sea ; Cairntable, rising 
 to the height of 1650 feet ; Knoekdow and Carleton, 
 each 1554 feet high ; and Knocknounan, 1540 feet. 
 The chief rivers are the Ayr, the Doon, the Garnock, 
 the Girvan, and the Stinchar; and the county is inter- 
 sected by numerous smaller streams, the principal of 
 which are the Rye water, the Irvine, and the Kilmar- 
 nock water. There are also numerous small lakes, espe- 
 cially in the district of Carrick ; but the only one of 
 any extent is Loch Doon, from which issues the river 
 of that name. The coast, particularly that of Carrick, 
 is precipitous, rocky, and dangerous, and possesses few 
 good harbours ; towards the extremities it is almost in- 
 accessible owing to rocks in the offing, and towards the 
 centre the beach is sandy, and the water so shallow as 
 generally to preclude the approach of vessels of any 
 considerable burthen. 
 
 About one-third of the land is arable and in culti- 
 vation, and the remainder, of which a very large portion 
 is mountain waste, is chiefly meadow and pasture. The
 
 AY TO 
 
 A YTO 
 
 soil is in some parts light and sandy, and in others a 
 rich clay, and nearly the whole of the district of Cun- 
 ninghame is a rich and fruitful vale. The dairies are 
 well managed, and their produce is in very high repute ; 
 the county is distinguished for its excellent breed of 
 cattle. The moors abound with all kinds of game, and 
 the rivers with salmon and trout. The minerals are, 
 coal, ironstone, lead and copper ore, black-lead, and 
 gypsum, the two first of which are largely wrought ; 
 the coal is very abundant, and the working of it for ex- 
 portation is daily increasing, for which purpose tram- 
 roads have been laid down, and harbours have been 
 constructed. There are also extensive quarries of free- 
 stone and marble. The ancient forests of Ayrshire 
 have long since disappeared ; and the plantations, which 
 are extensive, are mostly of recent growth. In this 
 county the seats are Kelburn House, Eglinton Castle, 
 Culzean Castle, Loudoun Castle, Fairley Castle, Dalqu- 
 harran, Blairquhan, Bargeny, Fullarton House, Dumfries 
 House, Stair House, Auchincruive, Auchinleck, and 
 many others. The manufactures comprise the various 
 branches of the woollen, the linen, cotton, and thread 
 manufactures, for which there are extensive works at 
 Kilmarnock and Catrine ; the weaving of muslin is also 
 general throughout the county, and the Ayrshire needle- 
 work has long been distinguished for its elegance. 
 There are tanneries and potteries, iron-foundries, and 
 some very large iron-works, of which those at Muirkirk, 
 Dairy, and Glengarnock are among the most celebrated 
 in the country. Along the coast are valuable fisheries, 
 and salt-works, and works for kelp and soda. Facility 
 of communication is maintained by excellent roads, and 
 bridges kept in good repair ; also by the railway from 
 Ayr to Glasgow, with its different branches. The annual 
 value of real property in the county is £531,319, of 
 which £390,278 are returned for lands, £86,430 are for 
 houses, £27,851 for mines, £11,313 for railway com- 
 munication, £1301 for quarries, £843 for fisheries, £507 
 for iron-works, and the remainder for other species of 
 real property. There are numerous remains of anti- 
 quity, consisting of the ruins of fortresses and religious 
 houses, in various parts of the county ; all of which are 
 described in the articles on the several parishes where 
 they are situated. 
 
 AYTON, a post-town and parish, in the county of 
 Berwick, 9 miles (X. \v. by N.) from Berwick-on- 
 Tweed, and 47| (E. by S.) from the city of Edinburgh ; 
 containing about I7OO inhabitants. This place, which 
 takes its name from the water of Eye, on whose banks 
 it is situated, is intimately connected with important 
 transactions of early times. It was formerly dependent 
 on the monastery of Coldingham, upon the settlement 
 of which, between the years 1098 and 1 107, under the 
 auspices of King Edgar, that monarch made several 
 grants to the monks, including " Eytun" and " aliam 
 Eytun", the latter being Nether Ayton, on the opposite 
 side of the river. Ayton then belonged to the parish of 
 Coldingham ; and it is considered that its church was 
 founded about that time, as a chapel to the neighbour- 
 ing priory, to which use it was appropriated till the 
 Reformation, when this district was disjoined from 
 Coldingham, and united to Lamberton on the south- 
 east, a short time after which it was erected into a 
 parish of itself. The Castle of Ayton, a place of some 
 consequence in turbulent times, but long since demo- 
 96 
 
 lished, is supposed to have been founded by a Norman 
 called De Vescie, whose family afterwards changed their 
 name to De Eitun, and of whom the Aytons of Inch- 
 darney in Fife are said to be the lineal descendants. 
 This castle was subjected to a siege by Surrey, the 
 famous general of Henry TIL, in 1497. It appears that 
 the village of Ayton sprang up in its vicinity for the 
 sake of the protection which it afforded in times of 
 danger. The estate of Prenderguest, a distinct and very 
 ancient portion of the parish, in the reign of David I. 
 partly belonged to Sw-ain, priest of Fishwick on the 
 banks of the Tweed, who afterwards renounced his 
 claim to it in favour of the Coldingham monks. A 
 truce between the hostile kingdoms was signed in the 
 church in 1384 ; and another in 1497, for seven years, 
 after the capture of the castle in July in the same year. 
 
 The p.\RisH is bounded on the east by the sea. It is 
 about four miles in length, the same in breadth, and 
 contains an area of about 7050 acres, of which 6OOO are 
 arable, 250 pasture, and 800 plantation. The surface is 
 most elevated in the southern part, which consists of a 
 sloping range of high land, adorned with beautiful 
 copses, and reaching at its highest elevation to about 
 660 feet above the level of the sea : on the northern 
 side the ground is lower, but has some very fine lofty 
 undulations. The sea-coast extends between two and 
 three miles, and is abrupt and steep, one point, called 
 Blaiky's, rising to a height of 350 feet. There are one 
 or two caves on the shore, accessible only by sea, and 
 which, it is supposed, were formerly used for smuggling; 
 they are the resort of marine fowls and shell-fish. At 
 the south-eastern point of the boundary is a rocky bay, 
 approached from land by a deep ravine, at the foot of 
 which stand the little fishing-village of Burnmouth, and 
 a singular rock called the Maiden Stone, insulated at 
 high water, and which has been separated from the 
 precipice above by the undermining of the sea. At the 
 north-eastern point of the parish are two or three islets 
 called the Harker rocks, over which the sea continually 
 rolls, and, when driven by strong east winds, exhibits a 
 succession of waves of sweeping foam. The chief rivers 
 are the Eye and the Ale, the former of which rises in 
 the Lammermoor hills, and after flowing for nearly 
 twelve miles, enters the parish by a right-angled flexure 
 on its western side, and at length falls into the sea. 
 The scenery of the valley through which it flows, if 
 viewed from Millerton hill, the old western approach to 
 Ayton, is of singular interest and beauty : the nearer 
 prospect consists of the village, manse, and church, 
 Ayton House with its beautiful plantations, and the 
 commanding house and grounds of Peelwalls ; a number 
 of mansions and farm-houses appear in various parts on 
 the right, skirted by a range of hill country, and the 
 expansive and restless sea closes the prospect on the 
 north-east. The Ale rises in Coldingham parish, and 
 after running two or three miles, forms the north- 
 eastern boundary of this parish, separating it from 
 Coldingham and Eyemouth for about two miles, when 
 it falls into the Eye at a romantic elevation called the 
 Kip-rock. 
 
 The soil is in general good, consisting in the southern 
 part of a fertile loam, and in the northern exhibiting a 
 light earth, with a considerable admixture of gravel in 
 many places. The finest crops, both white and green, 
 are raised in the parish ; the land is in a high state of
 
 A Y T O 
 
 BACK 
 
 cnltivation, and every improvement in agriculture has 
 been introduced, the most prominent signs of advance 
 being the adoption of a complete system of draining, 
 and the plentiful use of bone-dust as turnip manure. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £12,970. The prevailing rock in the district is the 
 greywacke and greywacke slate, of which formation 
 large supplies of sandstone of good quality are quarried 
 for building. Considerable deposits of coarse alabaster, 
 or gypsum, have been dug up near the hamlet of Burn- 
 mouth ; and in the vicinity of the Eye are large quan- 
 tities of coarse gravel, boulders, and of rolled blocks 
 under the soil, apparently alluvial, and rounded by the 
 perpetual action of water. 
 
 The mansion-house of Ayton, which was destroyed by 
 fire in 1834, was afterwards sold as a ruin with the ad- 
 joining property for £170,000, and has been rebuilt on 
 a scale of architectural splendour: it is situated on a 
 beautiful acclivity, near the great London road, on the 
 bank of the Eye, and is surrounded by extensive 
 grounds. The house of Preuderguest is a modern build- 
 ing of superior construction ; and at Peelwalls is an 
 elegant residence, lately built of the celebrated stone 
 from the quarries of Killala, in Fifeshire : it is situated 
 in grounds which vie in beauty with the mansion. Guns- 
 green House, standing by the sea-side and harbour of 
 Eyemouth, is also a fine mansion, erected by a wealthy 
 smuggler, who caused many concealments to be con- 
 structed in the house, and under the grounds, for the 
 purpose of carrying on his contraband traffic. A new 
 and elegant seat was lately erected on the estate of 
 Netherbyres, by Capt. Sir Samuel Brown, with an ap- 
 proach from the north side by means of a tension- 
 bridge over the Eye, by which, with many other im- 
 provements, this valuable property has been rendered 
 more attractive. 
 
 The village of Ayton contains about "00 persons, and 
 the village of Burnmouth a third of that number. At 
 the former, a recently established cattle-market takes 
 place monthly, which is well supported ; and fairs have 
 long been held twice a year, which at present are not of 
 much importance. Numerous buildings have been 
 erected upon the new line of the London road, under 
 leases granted by the proprietor ; and the village has 
 thus been very considerably improved. There are 
 several manufactories, the principal of which is a paper- 
 mill, where pasteboard and coloured papers are chiefly 
 prepared : it possesses new and greatly improved machi- 
 nery, the drying process being effected by the application 
 of the paper to large cylinders heated by steam ; about 
 £800 are annually paid to the workmen, and the excise 
 duties amount to upwards of £3000 per annum. A 
 tannery, which is at present on a small scale, but pro- 
 gressively increasing, was commenced in the village a 
 few years since ; and at Gunsgreen is a distillery, not 
 now at work, that yielded about 1500 gallons of aqua 
 weekly, chiefly derived from potatoes, 6000 cwt. of 
 which were sometimes consumed in two months. Kelp 
 has occasionally been made on the shore, at Burnmouth j 
 but the return is too small to induce the inhabitants to 
 prosecute the manufacture with vigour. A harbour has 
 been lately constructed at Burnmouth, as a security 
 against the violence of the sea : it is of sandstone found 
 in the parish, and was completed at a cost of £1600, 
 three-fourths defrayed by the commissioners for fisheries. 
 Vol. L — 97 
 
 and one-fourth by the fishermen. Large quantities of 
 white fish and occasionally of red, of very fine quality, 
 are taken off the coast; and cod, ling, and herrings are 
 cured for distant markets : lobsters are sometimes sent 
 to London ; and periwinkles, with which the rocks 
 abound, are likewise an article of trade, for the use of 
 those fishmongers who convert them into sauce. There 
 is the greatest facility of communication, the London 
 road and the North-British railway intersecting the 
 parish, and another road crossing the London line 
 nearly at right angles, and leading from Eyemouth into 
 the interior of the county. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Chirnside and synod of 
 Merse and Teviotdale; the patronage is possessed by 
 the Crown, and the minister's stipend is about £9,18, 
 with a glebe valued at £35 per annum, and a manse on 
 the bank of the river Eye, erected at the close of the 
 last century. The church is conveniently situated 
 about half a mile from the village, in a romantic and 
 sweetly secluded spot, near the river Eye, commanding 
 a fine view of Ayton House. It consists partly of the 
 walls of the ancient church, built about the twelfth 
 century by the monks of Coldingham, and which was 
 of very considerable dimensions. The old south tran- 
 sept is still entire, shrouded with mantling ivy, and 
 converted into a burying-place for the Ayton family ; 
 the gable of the chancel is also remaining, but its side 
 walls have been removed for the sake of the sandstone 
 material, which appears to have been cut from the 
 quarry at Greystonlees. The present building was re- 
 paired and enlarged about twenty-five years since, and 
 contains 456 sittings. There are two places of worship 
 belonging to the United Presbyterian Synod. The pa- 
 rochial school affords instruction in the usual branches 
 of education, with the classics, mathematics, and French 
 if required ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., and a 
 good house and garden, with fees and other emoluments 
 to the amount of £84 a year. 
 
 On the highest point of the southern extremity of the 
 parish is the round camp of Drumaw, or Habchester, 
 which, before recent mutilations by the plough, was a 
 fine specimen of ancient British encampments. It com- 
 mands an extensive prospect both by sea and land ; and 
 from its situation on the northern side of the hill, and 
 its use for observation and defence, it is thought to have 
 been constructed by South Britons in order to watch 
 the movements and repel the attacks of their north- 
 ern neighbours. In the vicinity are remains of other 
 camps, all of which, in process of time, yielded to the 
 more efficient and permanent defence of castles, re- 
 mains of which are still visible in many parts. The 
 encampment of Drumaw was situated near the Roman 
 road which extended from the wall of Severus, and, after 
 crossing the country at Newcastle, terminated at the 
 Roman camp near St. Abb's Head in this district. 
 
 B 
 
 BACHIES, a village, in the parish of Golspie, 
 county of Sutherland; containing 145 inhabitants. 
 
 BACKDEAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Newton, 
 county of Edinburgh ; containing 45 inhabitants. 
 
 O
 
 BALE 
 
 BALD 
 
 This hamlet lies near the source of a small tributary to 
 the Esk water, and borders upon the parish of luveresk, 
 which is situated to the north-east of Backdean. 
 
 BACKMUIR, a hamlet, in the parish of Liff, Ben- 
 vie, and Invergovvrie, county of Forfar ; containing 
 166 inhabitants. It is situated in the north-western 
 extremity of the parish, upon the border of the county 
 of Perth, and close to the Dighty water ; and the road 
 from Dundee to this place here branches off into two 
 roads, one leading to Cupar-Angus, and the other to 
 Meigle. 
 
 BAILLIESTON, a village, in the former quoad sacra 
 parish of Crossbill, parish of Old Monkland, Middle 
 ward of the county of Lanark, 4|- miles (E. by S.) 
 from Glasgow ; containing 639 inhabitants. This is 
 the principal village of Crossbill district, and is situ- 
 ated in the western part of the parish of Old Monkland, 
 on the border of that of Barony, and near the roads 
 from Glasgow to Airdrie and to Hamilton. For many 
 years past, the Monkland, Bothwell, Barony, and Gad- 
 der Farming Society have held their annual exhibition 
 of live stock in the village. The show is considered to 
 be in Scotland second only to the exhibitions of the 
 Highland Society ; the description of stock is of the 
 first class, and prizes are frequently obtained by agri- 
 culturists of this neighbourhood at the latter exhibitions, 
 where the competition is open to England and Scotland. 
 A subscription library is supported here. 
 
 BAINSFORD, a village, in the parish of Falkirk, 
 county of Stirling, 1 mile (N.) from Falkirk. This 
 village forms part of the suburbs of the town of Fal- 
 kirk, and is included within the parliamentary boun- 
 dary. It is situated on the north side of the Forth and 
 Clyde canal, over which is a drawbridge, affording 
 access to the village of Grahamston. The inhabitants 
 are chiefly employed in the Carron iron-works, and 
 the proprietors of that establishment have a basin here, 
 communicating with the canal, and which is connected 
 with the works in the adjoining parish of Larbert, by a 
 railway. There is a rope-walk, where several persons 
 are employed ; and in the village, which is neatly built, 
 is a well-conducted school. 
 
 BALBEGGIE, a village, in the parish of Kinnoull, 
 county of Perth, 5 miles (N. E.) from Perth ; contain- 
 ing 'i'i'i inhabitants. This village is situated in the 
 northern extremity of the parish, on the road to Cupar- 
 Angus ; and the United Presbyterian Synod have a 
 place of worship here, with a residence for the minister, 
 and a garden attached. 
 
 BALBIRNE, a hamlet, in the parish of Ruthven, 
 county of Forfar ; containing 43 inhabitants. 
 
 BALBIRNIE, county of Fife. — See Markinch. 
 
 BALBLAIR, an island, in the parish of Fodderty, 
 county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 7 inhabit- 
 ants. 
 
 BALBROGIE, a village, in the parish of Cupar- 
 Angus, county of Perth, I5 mile (N. N. E.) from the 
 town of Cupar- Angus ; containing 80 inhabitants. A 
 weekly market has been established at this place, which 
 is conveniently situated near the road from Cupar-Angus 
 to Meigle, about midway between it and the river Isla. 
 
 BALBUNNO, a village, in the parish of Longfor- 
 
 GAN, county of Perth ; containing 'iOQ inhabitants. 
 
 This village, which stands entirely upon the lands of 
 
 Mylnefield, is neatly built, and inhabited chiefly by per- 
 
 9S 
 
 sons employed in a bleachfield in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood, though not within the limits of the parish of 
 Longforgan. The bleachfield has been established with- 
 in the last few years, and to it the origin of the village 
 may be attributed. 
 
 BALCHULLISH.— See Ballichulish. 
 
 BALCURVIE, a village, in that part of the parish 
 of Markinch which formed the quoad sacra parish of 
 Milton of Balgonie, county of Fife ; containing 186 
 inhabitants. 
 
 BALDERNOCK, a parish, in the county of Stir- 
 ling, 7 miles (N.) from Glasgow ; containing, with the 
 villages of Balmore, Barraston, and Fluchter, about SOO 
 inhabitants. The name is corrupted, as is supposed, 
 from the Celtic term Baldruinick, signifying " Druid's 
 town"; an opinion which receives strong support from 
 the numerous remains found here, pertaining to the 
 ancient order of Druids. This parish, of which the 
 eastern half was in that of Campsie till 1649, is situated 
 at the southern extremity of the county, where it is 
 bounded by the river Kelvin, which flows towards the 
 west ; and by the Allander, a tributary of the Kelvin. 
 It comprehends 3800 acres, of which 3100 are under 
 cultivation or in pasture, '240 in wood, and the remain- 
 der occupied by roads and water. About equal parts 
 are appropriated for grain, green crops, &c. ; and for 
 pasture. The surface is greatly diversified, consisting 
 of three distinct portions succeeding each other on a 
 gradual rise from south to north ; each varying exceed- 
 ingly from the others in soil, produce, and scenery ; and 
 the whole circumscribed by an outline somewhat irre- 
 gular, but approaching in form to a square, the sides 
 severally measuring about two miles. The northern 
 tract, situated at an elevation of 300 feet above the sea, 
 and embracing fine views in all directions, contains a 
 few isolated spots under tillage, surrounded by moss 
 land, with a light sharp soil incumbent on whinstone. 
 Below this, the surface of the second tract assumes an 
 entirely different appearance, being marked by many 
 beautifully picturesque knolls, and having a clayey soil 
 resting on a tilly retentive subsoil. To this portion 
 succeeds the lowest land in the parish, and by far the 
 richest, comprising 7OO or 800 acres along the bank of 
 the river Kelvin, formed of a soil of dark loam, supposed 
 to have been washed down gradually from the higher 
 grounds : this division is called the Balmore haughs. 
 
 Oats and barley are the prevailing crops of grain, and 
 all the ordinary green crops are raised : little wheat is 
 grown. Draining is extensively carried on, but there 
 is still much land in want of this necessary process. 
 The inundations from the river Kelvin, formerly often 
 destructive to the crops on the lower grounds, are now 
 to a great extent prevented by a strong embankment, and 
 by a tunnel at the entrance of a tributary of the river, 
 by which the torrents that once poured forth, in rainy 
 weather, uncontrolled, are so checked as to obviate 
 danger. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £5713. The rock consists of trap in the southern 
 and midland portions ; but in the northern district 
 limestone, ironstone, pyrites, alum, and fire-clay are 
 abundant : there are lime-works, collieries, and an alum- 
 work, in the parish, all in the neighbourhood of Bar- 
 raston. Iron-ore has lately been discovered in the coal- 
 mines of Barraston, unlike the common argillaceous 
 kind formerly known to exist; it consists of a mixture
 
 B A L F 
 
 B A L F 
 
 of iron with carbonaceous substances, similar to that 
 found in the mines near Airdrie, but no iron is wrought 
 in the parish. The coal and limestone that have been ob- 
 tained, for 150 years, from this locality, lie in beds from 
 three to four feet thick, and from twelve to twenty-four 
 feet under the surface, the superincumbent strata J|eing 
 formed of argillaceous slate, calcareous freestone, and 
 ironstone : the lime is excellent, and sent in large quan- 
 tities to Glasgow and many other places in the country. 
 Bardowie, a very ancient mansion, once fortified, and a 
 considerable part of which is now modernised, is orna- 
 mented in front with a beautiful loch a mile long : it is 
 the seat of the chief of the clan Buchanan. Towards the 
 north-west of the parish, on an eminence, are the remains 
 of a tower once a family-mansion ; near this is the seat 
 of Craigmaddie, and, in another direction, the mansion of 
 Glenorchard. The parish is traversed by a high road 
 from east to west, and the Forth and Clyde canal passes 
 within a small distance of the south-eastern boundary. 
 A fair used to be held in the summer for cattle and 
 horses, but it has fallen into disuse. 
 
 Baldernock is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of 
 Dumbarton, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the 
 patronage of the Crown : the minister's stipend is about 
 £157, part of which is received from the exchequer; 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £19 per annum. 
 The church is a plain edifice, built in 1*95, and con- 
 tains 406 sittings. There is a place of worship for 
 members of the Free Church. The parochial school 
 affords instruction in reading, writing, and arithmetic ; 
 the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., and the fees. In 
 the vicinity of Blochairn farm, near which a battle is 
 said to have been fought with the Danes, are several 
 cairns, and, not far from these, three stones called " the 
 Auld Wives' Lifts", supposed to be Druidical. 
 
 BALDOVAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Strath- 
 MARTiNE, county of Forfar ; containing 44 inhabitants. 
 It is in the south-eastern part of the parish, near the 
 Dighty water. 
 
 BALEDGARNO, a village, in the parish of Inch- 
 TURE and RossiE, county of Perth, 9 miles (W.) from 
 Dundee; containing 110 inhabitants. It is situated in 
 the Carse of Gowrie, and southern portion of the parish, 
 and is a neat and thriving place, the property of Lord 
 Kinnaird. The hill of Baledgarno is finely planted with 
 various kinds of timber. 
 
 BALERNO, a village, in the parish of Currie, 
 county of Edinburgh, 7 milts (S. \V.) from Edinburgh; 
 containing 303 inhabitants. This place is situated on 
 the Leith water, on which are some mills for the manu- 
 facture of paper. A freestone-quarry has been worked 
 in the vicinity for a number of years, and many of the 
 buildings of the New Town of Edinburgh have been 
 erected with materials from it. 
 
 BALFIELD, a hamlet, in the parish of Lethnott 
 and Navar, county of Forfar ; containing 41 inhabit- 
 ants. It lies in the south-eastern portion of the parish, 
 a little to the north of the West water. 
 
 BALFRON, a parish, in the county of Stirling; 
 containing 1970 inhabitants, of whom 156S are in the 
 village. It has been supposed by some that this place 
 derived its name, which is said to signify " the town of 
 sorrow" or "mourning", from a dreadful calamity expe- 
 rienced by the original inhabitants, who, having left 
 their children in their tents, and departed to a spot at a 
 99 
 
 short distance for the performance of religious rites, 
 found upon returning that they had been all destroyed 
 by wolves, with which the neighbourhood was infested. 
 Others, however, interpret the name " the town of 
 burns", and imagine that it arose from the situation of 
 the original village, now fallen to decay, at the conflu- 
 ence of two small streams. The parish is eleven miles 
 in length from east to west, and three miles in breadth, 
 comprising 14,080 acres, of which 3320 are under culti- 
 vation, 1 05 in plantations, and the remainder waste. Its 
 surface is diversified with pleasing eminences, on one of 
 which, gently sloping to the south, stands the neatly- 
 built and interesting village, enlivened by the stream of 
 the Endrick, winding through a richly-wooded vale at 
 its foot, and supplying to the lovers of angling an ample 
 stock of trout of a peculiarly fine flavour. The loftv 
 hills called the Lennox fells, rising 1500 feet above the 
 level of the sea, form a singularly striking feature here, 
 bounding the scenery in one direction ; and the distant 
 view embraces the Grampian range, presenting to great 
 advantage the majestic Ben-Lomond, with many subor- 
 dinate yet imposing elevations. 
 
 The farms in general are of small size, and the soil, 
 which in some places is light and sandy, but more fre- 
 quently wet and tilly, is cultivated with much skill. 
 Dairy-farming is a favourite branch of husbandry, and 
 the stock, consisting of the Ayrshire breed, has been very 
 much improved, as has also the stock of sheep, in conse- 
 quence of the liberal patronage of the Strath-Endrick 
 Agricultural Club. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £4704. Limestone is abundant; but it 
 has not been wrought to any extent, through the want of 
 coal for burning it into lime : coal is supposed to exist 
 here, on account of the usual accompanying trap-rocks 
 having been found ; but all attempts to discover it have 
 hitherto failed. The ancient mansion of Ballindalloch, 
 in the parish, formerly belonged to the Glencairn family, 
 celebrated in Scottish history, and of whom Alexander, 
 the fifth Earl of Glencairn, was the friend, associate, and 
 patron of John Knox. The population was once entirely 
 rural, and the chief point of interest was the old village 
 with its spreading oak-tree, where the church and bury- 
 ing-ground are situated ; but about seventy years since, 
 manufactures were introduced, and a new village quickly 
 sprang up. In 1780 the manufacture of calicoes was 
 commenced, and in 1789 cotton-spinning succeeded, 
 when a mill was erected, known by the name of the 
 Ballindalloch cotton-works, now employing upwards of 
 250 hands, chiefly females, and driven by a stream sup- 
 plied by the Endrick, augmented in case of failure by 
 the water of a large reservoir in Dundaff moor. There 
 are between 300 and 400 hand-looms in the village, em- 
 ploying the larger part of the population in making light 
 jaconets and lawns, and all kinds of fancy dresses and 
 shawl patterns : these branches, however, have been for 
 some time greatly depressed. Facility of communication 
 is afforded by good roads that run to Stirling and Glas- 
 gow, from which towns Balfron is nearly equidistant, and 
 with which latter the chief communication is carried on. 
 A large cattle-fair is held at Balgair on the last Tuesday 
 in March, and another in the last week in June. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Dumbarton, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the pa- 
 tronage of the Earl of Kinnoull : the minister's stipend 
 is £158. 6. 8., above half of which is paid from the 
 
 0'2
 
 BALL 
 
 BALL 
 
 exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe of seventeen acres, 
 valued at £'25 per annum. Balfron church is a very 
 plain structure, built in ISS^, at a cost of £930 ; it con- 
 tains 690 sittings, and is conveniently situated in the 
 \illage, but being remote from the eastern quarter, the 
 minister preaches there once every six weeks in summer, 
 and once a quarter in winter. There are places of wor- 
 ship for the United Presbyterian Synod and United 
 Original Seceders. The parochial school affords instruc- 
 tion in the ordinary branches; the master has a salary 
 of £25, and £10 fees. The parish contains a library of 
 400 volumes in miscellaneous literature, and one of reli- 
 gious books, consisting of about 150 volumes. This 
 place, with some others, asserts a claim to the honour 
 of being the birthplace of Napier, the inventor of Loga- 
 rithms. 
 
 BALGONIE, in the county of Fife.— See Coal- 
 town, and M.^RKiNCH. 
 
 BALGRAY, a hamlet, in the parish of Tealing, 
 county of Forf.\r ; containing 63 inhabitants. It is 
 situated in the south-eastern part of the parish, near 
 the church, from which it is divided by a small rivulet 
 that rises within the limits of Tealing. 
 
 BALHADDIE, a hamlet, in the parish of Dunblane, 
 forming part of the late quoad sacra parish of Ardoch, 
 county of Perth ; and containing 33 inhabitants. 
 
 BALIXTORE, a village, in the parish of Fearn, 
 county of Ross and Cromarty, ^i miles (E. by S.) 
 from Fearn ; containing 313 inhabitants. This is a fish- 
 ing-village, situated on the coast of the Moray Firth, 
 which has here a flat and generally sandy shore. On 
 the south is the ferry of Cromarty, distant about four 
 miles. 
 
 BALISHEAR, an island, in the parish of North 
 UiST, county of Lnverness ; containing 15' inhabitants. 
 It is situated in the channel between the islands of 
 North Uist and Benbecula, and has a small village on 
 the east side. 
 
 BALKELLO, a hamlet, in the parish of Tealing, 
 county of Forfar ; containing 88 inhabitants. 
 
 BALLANTRAE, a parish, in the district of Car- 
 rick, county of Ayr, 13 miles (S. by W.) from Girvan ; 
 containing 1651 inhabitants, of whom 605 are in the 
 village. This place, anciently called Kirkcndbright- 
 Innertig, derived that appellation from the position of 
 its church at the mouth of the river Tig; and, on the 
 removal of the church from the old site to the town of 
 Ballantrae, assumed its present name, which in the 
 Celtic language is descriptive of its situation on the sea- 
 shore. The parish is bounded on the west by the Irish 
 Sea, and comprises nearly 25,000 acres, of which about 
 7000 are arable, 400 woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder rough moorland, affording scanty pasture. 
 Its surface is greatly diversified with hills and dales, 
 and is intersected by a series of four parallel ridges, 
 increasing in elevation as they recede from the shore, 
 and of which the third and highest is distinguished by 
 a hill 1430 feet above the sea, that was selected as one 
 of the stations for carrj'ing on the late trigonometrical 
 survey of this part of the coast. From this point is 
 obtained an extensive and beautiful prospect, embracing 
 the Isle of Man, the north-east coast of Ireland, Cantyre, 
 the isles of Ailsa and Arran, and the Ayrshire coast, 
 terminated by the West Highland mountains in the back- 
 ground ; while in another direction appear the Dum- 
 100 
 
 fries-shire hills, the Cumberland and Westmorland moun- 
 tains, and Solway Firth. The coast extends for about 
 ten miles ; the shore is bold, and interspersed with 
 rocks, except for about three miles near the village. 
 The principal river is the Stinchar ; it rises in the 
 pari|^ of Barr, flows south-west, crosses Colmonell, 
 forms the northern boundary of part of Ballantrae, then 
 runs through it for about three miles, and discharges 
 itself after a course of about thirty miles into the sea. 
 The Tig, rising in the high grounds, after a short course 
 flows into the Stinchar ; and the App, a very inconsi- 
 derable stream, flows westward, aloug the picturesque 
 dell of Glen-App, into Loch Ryan. Tiiese streams all 
 abound with common and sea trout, par, and occasionally 
 salmon, which last are plentiful in the Stinchar. 
 
 The SOIL is chiefly of a light and gravelly quality ; 
 near the shore, sandy ; and in the level lands, especially 
 near the rivers, a rich and fertile loam. The crops are 
 oats, wheat, bear, potatoes, turnips, and a few acres of 
 beans and peas. Bone-dust has been introduced as 
 manure; the lands have been drained, and other consi- 
 derable improvements were made under the auspices of 
 the late Stinchar Agricultural Association, which in- 
 cluded this parish, where it originated. There are seve- 
 ral dairy-farms, all of them well managed, and in the 
 aggregate producing annually about 5000 stone of sweet- 
 milk cheese, under the designation of Dunlop cheese. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £7265. 
 The natural woods are very inconsiderable, though, from 
 the number of trees found embedded in the soil, they 
 would appear to have been formerly extensive ; they 
 consist mostly of oak, ash, and birch, and on the banks 
 of the Stinchar and the Tig are some valuable trees. The 
 plantations are of comparatively recent formation; they 
 are in a thriving condition, and some which have been 
 laid down in Glen-App, and on the ridge to the north of 
 it, by the Earl of Orkney, promise to become a great 
 ornament in the scenery of the parish. 
 
 The VILLAGE, which was once a burgh of barony by 
 charter of James V., is pleasantly situated on the north 
 bank of the river Stinchar, about half a mile from its 
 influx into the sea ; a public hbrary is here supported 
 by subscription, and a post-office has been estabhshed. 
 A considerable salmon-fishery is prosecuted at the mouth 
 of the Stinchar : the fish are sent chiefly to the markets 
 of Ayr and Kilmarnock, and the annual produce may be 
 estimated at about £500 ; the season generally com- 
 mences in February, and closes in September. The 
 white-fishery is carried on extensively, employing twenty 
 boats, to each of which four men are assigned : the fish 
 are principally cod and turbot.and in some seasons her- 
 rings are also taken in abundance ; the annual produce 
 may be estimated at about £2000, and the season usually 
 commences in January, and ends in April. A court of 
 petty-sessiou was formerly held in the village every alter- 
 nate month, at which two of the county magistrates pre- 
 sided. The Glasgow and Stranraer steam-boat calls at 
 this place, and a facility of intercourse is also afforded by 
 excellent roads. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbyter)' of 
 Stranraer, synod of Galloway, and in the patronage of 
 the Duchess de Coigny ; the minister's stipend is 
 £248. 1. 3., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 
 per annum. The present church, erected in 1S19, is a 
 substantial edifice, adapted for a congregation of 600 
 
 I
 
 BALL 
 
 BALL 
 
 persons : the former church of Ballantrae, together with 
 a manse, was erected in 1617, at the sole expense of the 
 laird of Bargany. There are still some remains of the 
 original church at Innertig. A place of worship has been 
 erected in connexion with the Free Church. The paro- 
 chial school is well conducted ; the master has a salary 
 of £34. 4. 4^., with £16 fees, and a house and garden, 
 and he receives the interest of a bequest of £400 for the 
 instruction of an additional number of poor scholars. 
 The late Mrs. Caddall bequeathed £4500, and fifteen 
 acres of land, for the endowment and erection of a chapel 
 and school in Glen-App, in connexion with the Esta- 
 blished Church ; the trustees have established the school 
 and selected land for the glebe, and intend to build the 
 chapel, when the funds shall have accumulated suffi- 
 ciently to provide for the endowment of a minister after 
 defraying the expense of its erection. On a rock near 
 the village, and within the precincts of the parish glebe, 
 are the remains of the ancient castle of Ardstinchar, for- 
 merly belonging to the Bargany family. 
 
 BALLATER, a village, in the parish of Glenmuick, 
 TuLLiCH, and Glengairn, district of Kincardine 
 O'Neil, county of Aberdeen ; containing 3*1 inhabit- 
 ants. This place, which is situated in a beautiful valley, 
 on the north bank of the Dee, was formed about the 
 beginning of the present century, by the late proprietor, 
 William Farquharson, Esq., of Monaltrie, by whose 
 directions the site was laid out for the erection of regu- 
 lar streets and squares. The streets cross each other at 
 right angles ; the squares, with allotments of ground, have 
 been let out in perpetual feu tenements. Besides the 
 numerous well-constructed private houses, the village 
 contains an excellent inn, some good shops, a circulat- 
 ing library, and a post-oflRce communicating with Aber- 
 deen, to which place there is a daily mail-coach, together 
 with several weekly carriers. The salubrity of the air, 
 and the imposing scenery of the locality, draw many 
 visiters from Aberdeen and other parts in the summer 
 months ; but the chief attraction is the chalybeate 
 waters of Pananich, in the vicinity, which hold in solu- 
 tion carbonate of iron, lime, magnesia, &c., and are con- 
 sidered of much efficacy in scorbutic and nephritic 
 complaints. There are superior hot, cold, and shower 
 baths, and many convenient lodging-houses. In a square 
 in the village stand the parish church, and, at a short 
 distance, the parochial school. Over the Dee is a good 
 wooden bridge of four arches, erected in 1834 at a cost of 
 upwards of £2000. 
 
 BALLEN DEAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Inchture 
 and RossiE, county of Perth ; containing 80 inhabit- 
 ants. This place is situated in the Carse of Gowrie, 
 near Ballendean hill, which is of considerable elevation, 
 and also near the mansion of Ballendean House. 
 
 BALLENLUIG, a village, in the parish of Logie- 
 rait, county of Perth; containing 114 inhabitants. 
 It is in the north-eastern portion of the parish, near the 
 river Tummel, which flows on the northeast. 
 
 BALLICHULISH, a quoad sacra parish, in the pa- 
 rish of KiLMALiE, partly in the district and county of 
 Argyll, and partly in the county of Inverness, U 
 miles (S. by W.) from Fort-William ; containing 123.5 
 inhabitants. The village of Ballichulish, or North 
 Ballichulish, consisting of about forty families, stands on 
 the Loehaberor Inverness-shire side of Loch Leven, near 
 its junction with Loch Linuhe, where is a ferry between 
 101 
 
 the opposite coasts of Lochaber and Appin, a distance of 
 three miles below South Ballichulish, a large village in 
 the Argyllshire parish of Lismore and Appin. On each 
 side of this ferry across Loch Leven is an inn, the 
 prospect from which is of the most imposing character, 
 embracing mountains of towering height and rugged 
 grandeur, relieved by water, woods, and pastures, and 
 other interesting features. The quoad sacra parish of 
 Ballichulish, or rather Ballichulish and Corran of Ard- 
 gour, consists of two distinct districts, separated from 
 each other by Loch Linnhe, and having a church in 
 each of them. The district connected with the church 
 at North Ballichulish, in the county of Inverness, ex- 
 tends seventeen miles by seven, or 119 square miles; 
 while that connected with the church at Ardgour, in the 
 county of Argyll, extends fourteen miles by six miles, or 
 eighty-four square miles, making a total area of 203 
 square miles. Both the churches were built in the year 
 1829, and they are about four miles apart ; the church 
 of Ballichulish contains 300 sittings, and that of Ardgour 
 210 : divine service is performed once a fortnight in each. 
 A school is supported by government in the former 
 district ; and another, in the latter, by the Society for 
 the Propagation of Christian Knowledge. At Corran of 
 Ardgour is a ferry connecting the two divisions, with an 
 inn on each side : the inn on the Ardgour shore is very 
 comfortable, and much frequented in summer. Cuil 
 House, the residence of the chief of Ardgour, Colonel 
 Mc Lean, stands at the foot of a range of lofty mountains, 
 and at the edge of an extensive flat, and commands one 
 of the grandest prospects in this part of the county. 
 
 BALLINGRY, a parish, in the district of Kirk- 
 caldy, county of Fife, 2 miles (N. E. by E.) from 
 Blair-Adam Inn ; containing 436 inhabitants. This 
 place is supposed to have derived its name, of Gaelic 
 origin, from its having at one time been an occasional 
 residence of the Scottish kings. During the invasion of 
 Britain by the Romans under Agricola, the neighbour- 
 hood is conjectured by some to have been the scene of 
 the battle between the Caledonians under Galgacus, and 
 the IX. legion, which may have been stationed here. 
 The Romans were totally defeated ; but Agricola, upon 
 receiving intelligence of the event, put the whole of his 
 army in motion, and, falling upon the rear of the 
 Caledonians, compelled them to yield to superior num- 
 bers, and retire from the field. The latter, however, 
 retreated in good order, bravely defending the fords of 
 Loch Leven, it is said, against the invaders, and ob- 
 stinately disputing every inch of ground. Numerous 
 memorials of a contest have been met with : at the east 
 end of the loch, and also where Auchmnir bridge now 
 crosses that ancient ford, Caledonian battle-axes and 
 Roman weapons have bee* discovered ; and a few years 
 since, a Caledonian battle-axe of polished stone, firmly 
 fixed in an oaken handle, twenty-two inches long, was 
 found near the spot. No vestige remains of the supposed 
 Roman camp in the jjarish : near its site is now the 
 steading of the Chapel farm. 
 
 This parish, which is of very irregular form, comprises 
 about 3700 acres, whereof 1394 arc arable, 1874 meadow 
 and pasture, 242 woodland and plantations, and the re- 
 mainder common and waste. The surface is in part a 
 level, broken by the hill of Binarty, the southern acclivity 
 of which has been richly planted, forming an interesting 
 feature in the scenery. In the northern portion of the
 
 B A L INI 
 
 B A l:\i 
 
 parish the soil is rich, dry, and fertile, but in other 
 parts of inferior quality ; the crops are oats and barley, 
 with some wheat, beans, and potatoes. Great im- 
 provement has been made by draining, but in rainy 
 seasons the drains are insufficient to carry off the water ; 
 much more draining is necessary, and stones in many 
 places still encumber the ground : the loch on the estate 
 of Lochore has been drained, and now produces ex- 
 cellent crops of grain. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £4611. Limestone and coal are 
 found in various parts ; the former is of inferior quality, 
 and not worked, but the latter is wrought on the Earl 
 of Zetland's property, and also on the Earl of Minto's, 
 with success : whinstone and freestone are also found 
 here, and, on the hill of Binarty, basaltic whinstone. 
 Facility of communication is afforded by the Dunferm- 
 line branch of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee 
 railway. The parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy, 
 s5-nod of Fife, and in the gift of Lady Scott of Abbots- 
 ford ; the minister's stipend is about £150, with a 
 manse valued at £10, and a glebe at £"20, per annum. 
 The church is a substantial and neat structure, erected 
 in 1831. The parochial schoolmaster's salary is £34. 4. 
 4., with about £4 fees, a house, and an allowance in lieu 
 of garden. The poor are partly supported by the rent of 
 land producing £^1, and by the proceeds of a bequest 
 of £100 by William Jobson, Esq., of Lochore. 
 
 BALLOCH, a village, in the parish and county of 
 Inverness; containing 104 inhabitants. 
 
 BALLOCHNEY, a village, in that part of the parish 
 of New Mgnkland which formed the quoad sacra 
 parish of Clarkston, Middle ward of the county of 
 Lanark ; containing 559 inhabitants. This place, which 
 is situated in the southern part of the parish, in an im- 
 portant coal and ironstone district, gives name to a line 
 of railway extending from it, for about four miles west- 
 ward, to the southern terminus of the Monkland and 
 Kirkintilloch, and the eastern terminus of the Glasgow 
 and Garnkirk, railroad. The capital of the company, 
 which was incorporated in 1 826, was originally £ 1 8,000 j 
 but power was acquired in the session of 1S35 to in- 
 crease it to £28,000 ; and by an act passed July 1, 1839, 
 the capital was further augmented to £70,000, for the 
 purpose of improving the line, which now has several 
 branches. In 1843 the company was empowered to in- 
 crease its capital to £110,000. An act was passed in 
 1S46 enabling it to improve the gauge of the rails ; and in 
 1848 an act was obtained to amalgamate the Ballochney, 
 the Monkland and Kirkintilloch, and the Slamannan 
 railways. 
 
 BALMACLELLAN, a parish, in the stewartry of 
 Kirkcudbright, § a mile (N. E.) from New Galloway; 
 containing 1134 inhabitants, of whom 113 are in the 
 village. This place takes its name from its ancient 
 proprietors, a branch of the family of Maclellan of 
 Bombie, lords of Kirkcudbright, who flourished here for 
 man)' generations. The parish is bounded on the west 
 by the river Ken, and on the east by the river Urr. It 
 is of an irregularly oblong figure, comprising about 
 23,737 acres, of which 4000 are arable, 300 wood and 
 plantation, and the remainder, with the exception of 
 some extensive tracts of moorland and moss, meadow 
 and pasture. The surface is varied with hills, some of 
 which rise to a considerable height, and is interspersed 
 with small valleys of different degrees of fertility, and 
 102 
 
 great variety of aspect. The lower grounds are watered 
 by the Craig and Crogo rivulets, issuing from a range of 
 hills in opposite directions, and dividing the parish from 
 that of Parton on the south : on the north lie the 
 parishes of Dairy and Glencairn, the Garple burn 
 dividing Balmaclellan from the former, and the Castle- 
 fern burn from the latter. Along the banks of the Ken, 
 a range of mounts called Drums extends for two or 
 three miles into the interior of the parish, beyond which 
 the country assumes a more wild and rugged aspect, 
 consisting of large tracts of moor and peat moss, in- 
 terspersed with a few detached portions of cultivated 
 land. In the upper parts of the parish are numerous 
 lakes, of which Loch Breck, Loch Barscobe, Loch Skae, 
 and Loch Lowes are the principal ; but the most ex- 
 tensive and beautiful lake is Loch Ken, on the western 
 border of the parish, into which runs the river Ken, a 
 stream that frequently overflows its banks. The several 
 streams and lakes abound with trout, and more es- 
 pecially Loch Breck, in which are yellow trout equal in 
 quality to those of Lochinvar ; pike are also found in 
 most of them, and in Loch Ken one was taken that 
 weighed 721b. The Garple burn forms in its course 
 numerous picturesque cascades, of which the most in- 
 teresting and most romantic is that called the Holy Linn. 
 The scenery is in many parts diversified, and, particularly 
 around the village, is beautifully picturesque. 
 
 The soil is extremely various : the lands under cul- 
 tivation have been much improved, and considerable 
 tracts towards the east, hitherto unprofitable, are gra- 
 dually becoming of value ; but there is still much moor 
 and moss, scarcely susceptible of improvement. The 
 chief crops are grain of all kinds, with potatoes and 
 turnips. The cattle are generally of the Galloway breed, 
 except a few cows of the Ayrshire kind on one of the 
 dairy-farms; and the sheep are of the black-faced breed, 
 except on one farm, which is stocked with a cross 
 between the black and the white faced, and a few of the 
 Cheviot. A very considerable number of pigs are 
 reared, and sent to the Dumfries market. The farm- 
 buildings on some of the lands are substantial and com- 
 modious, but on others of a very inferior order. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £5115. 
 The substratum is almost wholly whinstone, of which 
 the rocks chiefly consist, and of which great quantities 
 are raised, affording excellent materials for the roads ; 
 slate is found, and till lately there were two quarries of 
 it in operation. The plantations, which are mostly oak, 
 ash, and fir, are distributed throughout the lands, in 
 detached portions of ten or twelve acres each. Holm is 
 a handsome residence in the parish ; and there are also 
 the houses of Craig and Craigmuie. The chief village 
 stands on the turnpike-road leading from Edinburgh to 
 Wigtown ; the small village of Crogo is a retired hamlet 
 in the south of the parish, containing about sixty in- 
 habitants, and takes its name from the rivulet on which 
 it is situated. In 1822 a substantial bridge of granite, 
 of five arches, was built over the river Ken, by the floods 
 of which stream two several bridges had been previously 
 swept away; the central arch has a span of 100 feet. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes Balmaclellan is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright and synod of 
 Galloway : the minister's stipend is £222, with a manse 
 and glebe valued at £60 per annum ; patron, the Crown. 
 The church is a plain structure, built in 1772, and
 
 BALM 
 
 BALM 
 
 enlarged and repaired in 1833, and contains 370 sittings ; 
 tbe churchyard is spacious, aiid commands a fine view 
 extending over the whole vale of the Ken. There are 
 two parochial schools, the masters of which have each a 
 salary of £17- 2. 2., with fees averaging about £8 per 
 annum. A free school is supported by an endowment 
 of £70 per annum, arising from land purchased with a 
 bequest of £500 by Edward Murdoch, Esq., in 1788 ; 
 the school-house was built about fifteen years ago, with a 
 dwelling-house for the master, who has a salary of 
 £17. 2. 'i., but, in consideration of the endowment, re- 
 ceives no fees from the pupils. Barscobe Castle, an- 
 ciently a seat of the Maclellans, is little more than a 
 heap of ruins. On Dalarran Holm is an erect stone of 
 great size, without inscription, supposed to mark out 
 the spot where some Danish chief fell in battle. A large 
 ball of oak, and a set of bowling-pins, all of which, 
 except two, were standing erect, were discovered some 
 years since in the parish, by persons cutting peat, at a 
 depth of about twelve feet below the surface. 
 
 BALMAGHIE, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirk- 
 cudbright, four miles (N. VV.) from Castle-Douglas ; 
 containing 1252 inhabitants, of whom 275 are in the 
 village of Laurieston, and 243 in that of Bridge of Dee. 
 This place takes its name from its ancient proprietors 
 the Mc Ghies, whose ancestor, an Irish chieftain, settled 
 here at an early period, and who retained possession of 
 the chief estate in the parish till near the close of the 
 last century, when the Balmaghie property was pur- 
 chased by the present family. The celebrated castle of 
 Threave, anciently the baronial residence of the family 
 of Douglas, was built upon the site of a more ancient 
 structure belonging to the lords of Galloway, who for 
 many years exercised a kind of sovereignty independent 
 of the crown of Scotland. In 1451, the eighth Earl of 
 Douglas, in retaliation of some aggression on his terri- 
 tories, seized Sir Patrick Maclellan of Bombie, and 
 detained him prisoner in the castle of Threave, intending 
 to bring him to trial by right of his hereditary jurisdic- 
 tion ; and on the arrival of Sir Patrick Grey of Foulis, 
 commander of the body-guard of James II., with a 
 warrant from the king demanding his release, Douglas, 
 suspecting his errand, instantly ordered Maclellan to be 
 beheaded in the court-yard. A succeeding Earl of 
 Douglas, levying war against his sovereign, was worsted 
 in the conflict ; and the castle was eventually besieged 
 by the king in person. On this occasion, the artillery 
 making no impression upon the walls, which were of 
 extraordinary thickness, a blacksmith who witnessed the 
 assault offered to make a cannon of sufficient power for 
 the purpose ; and the family of Maclellan providing him 
 with iron for the work, he constructed the enormous 
 cannon afterwards called Mons Meg, weighing more 
 than six tons and a half. This formidable engine, which 
 was made in the vicinity of the royal camp, being with 
 great difficulty dragged to a commanding position in 
 front of the castle, the first shot spread consternation 
 among the besieged, and the second pierced through the 
 wall of the castle, and entering the banquet-hall, carried 
 away the right hand of the countess, who at the moment 
 was raising a goblet of wine to her mouth. The garrison 
 immediately surrendered, and the king presented to the 
 blacksmith, whose name was Mc Kim or Mc Min, the 
 lands of MoUance, as a reward for his ingenuity in 
 devising and accomplishing the means of his success. 
 103 
 
 This castle was the last of the various fortresses that 
 held out for the Earls of Douglas, after their rebellion in 
 1453 ; and subsequently to the fall of that family, and 
 the consequent annexation of Galloway to the crown of 
 Scotland, which took place in 1455, the castle was 
 granted by the sovereign to the family of Maxwell, who 
 became hereditary stewards of Kirkcudbright, and after- 
 wards Earls of Nithsdale. During the parliamentary 
 war in the reign of Charles I., the Earl of Nithsdale, 
 who held the castle for the king, kept up in it a garrison 
 of eighty men, with their officers, at his own expense ; 
 and when no longer able to maintain it against its as- 
 sailants, the king, who could send him no assistance, 
 recommended him to make the best terms that were 
 possible for the garrison and himself. As hereditary 
 keepers of the castle, the earls used to receive a fat cow 
 annually from each parish in the stewartry ; and on 
 selling the estate in 1704, they reserved the castle and 
 the island, to which they appointed a captain in order 
 to secure their right to the cattle, which were regularly 
 paid till the attainder of the earl for rebellion in 1715. 
 There are still some very conspicuous remains of the 
 ancient castle, situated on an island about twenty acres 
 in extent, formed by the Dee, at the south-eastern angle 
 of the parish ; they are the most striking object in the 
 landscape, and consist chiefly of the keep, which was 
 surrounded by an outer wall, with four circular turrets, 
 one only of which is standing. Several stone balls 
 weighing from one to three pounds and a half, and a gold 
 ring supposed to be that worn by the countess when 
 her hand was shot off, were found in the castle in 1843 ; 
 and in the year preceding, a large ball of granite nine- 
 teen inches in diameter, thought to be that discharged 
 from Mons Meg, was found by some labourers who 
 were clearing the ground. 
 
 The PARISH, which is situated nearly in the centre of 
 the county, is bounded on the north by the Black- 
 water of Dee, and on the east by the river Dee. It is 
 about nine miles in length, and seven in extreme 
 breadth, comprising 22,000 acres, of which nearly 7000 
 are arable, and the remainder meadow, pasture, and 
 waste, with a moderate proportion of woodland and plan- 
 tations. Towards the south-east the surface is tolerably 
 level, but in all other parts hilly, though not strictly 
 mountainous : the higher grounds command extensive 
 views, including the Carsphaira and Minnigaff hills to 
 the north-west, and to the south-east those of Cumber- 
 land, with the Isle of Man in clear weather. In the 
 uplands are several lakes, of which Loch Grannoch, or 
 Woodhall, the largest, is about two miles and a half in 
 length and half a mile in breadth 5 and with the excep- 
 tion of Lochinbreck, which abounds in trout, they are 
 all well stored with pike and perch. 
 
 In the valley of the Dee the soil is fertile, and there 
 arc extensive and productive tracts of meadow adjoining 
 the river ; the principal crops grown are oats, barley, 
 potatoes, and turnips. The system of agriculture is 
 improved ; the farm-buildings are generally substantial 
 and commodious, and those on the lands of Balmaghie 
 are all of recent erection, and of a very superior order. 
 Bone-dust is used as manure for turnips ; the lands 
 have been well drained, and arc mostly inclosed with 
 stone dykes. The moorlands afford tolerable pasture 
 for sheep, of which about 4000, of the black-faced breed, 
 are annually reared ; and about 350 of the white-faced,
 
 BALM 
 
 BALM 
 
 a cross between the Leicestershire and the Cheviot, are 
 annually reared on the low grounds. The cattle, of 
 which about 1000 are fed every year on the uplands, 
 are of the Galloway and Highland breeds ; and on the 
 lowland farms are numerous cows, principally Galloways, 
 although the Ayrshire breed is being more and more 
 introduced. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £6603. The substrata are chiefly greywacke 
 or whinstone, and in the higher lauds granite is found 
 m abundance ; but there is no limestone, so that what 
 is required for building or agricultural purposes is 
 brought from Cumberland. The plantations are not 
 extensive, but thrive well ; they consist mainly of larch 
 and oak, which appear adapted to the soil. Balmaghie 
 House, an ancient mansion, in which parts of an older 
 building have been incorporated, is pleasantly seated 
 near the river Dee, in grounds beautifully undulated, 
 and embellished with plantations. Duchrae House, a 
 handsome mansion of grauite, built in the old English 
 style, about the year 1S24, is finely situated near the 
 confluence of the Dee and the Ken. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of Kirk- 
 cudbright and synod of Galloway : the minister's sti- 
 pend is about £23.5, with a manse and glebe rated 
 together at £42. 10. per annum ; patron, Capt. Gordon, 
 R.N. The church, built in 1794, is situated near the 
 Dee : it is in good repair, and contains 400 sittings. 
 There are two parochial schools ; one at the village of 
 Laurieston, the master of which has a house, and a 
 salary of £30, with fees averaging nearly an equal sum ; 
 and the other at Glenlochar, the master of which has a 
 salary of £21. 6. 6., with fees amounting to about £14. 
 Besides these, is a third school, endowed by the Society 
 for Propagating Christian Knowledge. 
 
 BALMALCOLM, a village, in the parish of Kettle, 
 district of Cupar, county of Fife, 1 mile (S. E.) from 
 Kettle; containing 113 inhabitants. It is a small 
 place, on the road between Cupar and Leslie, and a 
 short distance south of the river Eden. 
 
 BALMBRAE, a village, in the parish of Falkland, 
 district of Cupar, county of Fife ; containing 114 in- 
 habitants, employed in agriculture, and in hand-loom 
 weaving at their own dwellings. 
 
 BALMERINO, a parish, in the district of Cupar, 
 county of Fife, 5 miles (W.) from Newport ; containing, 
 with the villages of Balmerino, Kirkton, and Galdry, 
 993 inhabitants, of whom 62 are in the village of Bal- 
 merino. This place, the name of which, of Celtic origin, 
 signifies " the town of the sea", or " sailor's town", most 
 probably derived the appellation from its position on 
 the estuary of the river Tay. It appears to have been 
 distinguished at a very ancient period for the mild tem- 
 perature of its climate, and early in the thirteenth cen- 
 tury was selected by Queen Ermengard, widow of 
 'V\^illiam the Lion, and mother of Alexander II., as a 
 place of occasional resort, for the benefit of her health : 
 and subsequently by Magdalene, queen of James V., for 
 the same purpose. A monastery for Cistercian monks 
 was founded here by Alexander II. in 1230, at the 
 solicitation of Ermengard, in gratitude for the benefit 
 she received while resident here; which monastery he 
 dedicated to the Virgin Mary and to St. Edward the 
 Confessor, and in which he placed monks from the 
 abbey of Melrose. This estabhshraent was endowed by 
 Queen Ermengard with lands in the countv, purchased 
 104 
 
 from Adam de Stawell, to which Alexander added the 
 church and lands of Lochmure in Angus, and those of 
 Petgornoc and Drumdol in the county of Fife. It con- 
 tinued to increase in wealth, by the liberality of subse- 
 quent benefactors, till the Dissolution, when its revenues 
 amounted to £704. 2. IO5. in money, exclusively of a 
 considerable income in grain and other agricultural pro- 
 duce. The abbey was demolished in 155S, by the 
 lords of the congregation, on their route from St. An- 
 drew's : the site, with the lands appertaining to it, was 
 subsequently granted to Sir James Elphinstone, of 
 Barnton ; and after the P.eformation, the estates were 
 constituted a lordship in favour of Sir James, who was 
 raised to the Scottish peerage in 1604 by the title of 
 Lord Balmerino, which became extinct in 1745 by the 
 attainder and execution of his descendant, the then 
 lord. 
 
 The parish is bounded on the north by the Firth of 
 Tay, along the shore of which it extends from Birkhill 
 to Wormit bay ; and comprises an area of 3400 acres, 
 of which nearly 2700 are arable and in profitable culti- 
 vation, 500 in woods and plantations, and the remainder 
 pasture and waste. Its surface is greatly varied, and 
 traversed by two nearly parallel ridges, extending from 
 east to west, and inclosing a lovely valley, in which the 
 village is situated. The highest points of these ridges 
 are, the Scurr hill on the north, which has an elevation 
 of 400 feet ; and the Coultry hill on the south, which 
 rises to the height of 500 feet above the sea. There is 
 also a considerable portion of high table land on the 
 southern ridge, on which the village of Galdry stands. 
 The scenery abounds with romantic features, and is 
 every where enriched with woods and thriving planta- 
 tions : a little to the east of the church, and nearly in 
 the centre of the valley, is a small elevation, on the 
 brow of which is Naughton House, and on the summit 
 are the ruins of an ancient castle ; beneath is a pictu- 
 resque dell, from which a mass of rock rises abruptly 
 to the height nearly of 100 feet. The shores of the 
 Tay are bold and rocky, having in some parts precipi- 
 tous and lofty cliffs ; and on that portion of the shore 
 which rises more gradually are the picturesque ruins of 
 the abbey, overlooking the river. The Tay affords 
 excellent facilities for bathing, being strongly impreg- 
 nated with saline particles. There are no other rivers 
 in the parish, but the lands are well watered by nume- 
 rous jprings, many of which appear from their names 
 to have been formerly of great notoriety, and from 
 which issue various small streams that attain sufficient 
 power to turn several mills. 
 
 The SOIL is generally light ; in some parts, a rich 
 black loam ; and in others, gravelly ; but, under good 
 management, is rendered fertile and productive. The 
 crops are grain of all kinds, potatoes, and turnips : the 
 system of agriculture is improved ; the farm-buildings 
 are substantial and commodious, and on all the farms 
 are threshing-machines, some of which are driven by 
 water. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £4962. The substrata are chiefly sandstone and 
 whinstone, of the former of which there are two varie- 
 ties, one extremely compact, and well adapted for build- 
 ing purposes ; the other more friable, and abounding 
 with nodules of quartz, and other substances. The 
 whinstone is of different qualities, comprising amygda- 
 loid, trap tuffa, felspar, and clay-stone porphyry ; that 

 
 BALM 
 
 B A LQ 
 
 which is of coarser grain contains amethyst, calcareous 
 spar, chalcedony, and agates. The Scurr hill abounds 
 with mineral varieties ; the most beautiful agates occur 
 there, and boulders of primitive rock are found along 
 the shore of the parish, and on the highest ridges. 
 Naughton House was erected towards the commence- 
 ment of the present century, and has since been enlarged 
 and improved. Birkhill is an elegant and spacious 
 mansion, on the bank of the river, and embosomed in 
 rich and beautiful plantations. 
 
 A salmon-fishery was formerly carried on in the Tay, 
 to a large extent, and proved a source of great gain ; 
 but since the prohibition of the use of stake-nets, in 
 1816, it has materially declined. The quantity pre- 
 viously taken in the firth was, on an average, about 
 30,000 in the season ; at present, the number of fish 
 scarcely amounts to one-tenth part. Since this altera- 
 tion, several who were once employed in the fishery are 
 now engaged in weaving at their own houses, for the 
 manufacturers of Dundee ; the principal articles woven 
 are dowlas and Osnaburghs, and about 1.50 persons are 
 thus engaged, of whom a large portion are women. 
 Great quantities of grain were formerly shipped from 
 the harbour of this place, which was the chief port on 
 the south side of the Tay for that article ; but at pre- 
 sent only small quantities of wheat are sent by the 
 farmers here, to the bakers of Dundee, by a passage-boat 
 which is kept up by subscription of the parishioners. 
 Considerable quantities of potatoes are sent to the 
 London market ; and many vessels with coal land their 
 cargoes here. The village of Balmerino is pleasantly 
 situated on the western declivity of the Scurr hill, al- 
 ready mentioned. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is in the pres- 
 bytery of Cupar and synod of Fife ; the minister's sti- 
 pend is £"239. 9., with a manse, and the glebe is valued 
 at £18 per annum. Balmerino church, a neat and sub- 
 stantial edifice of stone, erected in 1811, is nearly in the 
 centre of the parish. The parochial school affords in- 
 struction to about 130 scholars ; the master's salary is 
 £34. 4. 4., with £28 fees, and a house and garden. The 
 ruins of Balmerino Abbey consist chiefly of a small 
 portion of the walls, with some clustered columns, and 
 part of the corbels from which sprang the arches that 
 supported the roof, and which are in the decorated 
 English style ; and of one cell, still in tolerable pre- 
 servation. There are also remains of the ancient castle 
 of Naughton, said to have been built soon after the 
 Conquest, by Robert de Lundon ; they comprise only 
 some fragments of the side walls, which derive their 
 chief importance from their situation, on the summit of 
 a lofty crag rising almost perpendicularly from a deep 
 and richly-wooded dell. An establishment of Culdees 
 is said to have existed here, in connexion with that at 
 St. Andrew's ; and in a field in the parisli, still called 
 the Battle Law, an engagement is reported to have taken 
 place between the Scots and the Danes, the latter of 
 whom were driven to their ships : stone coflins, broken 
 armour, and bones have been discovered near the spot. 
 Some years since, two pieces of gold were found in a 
 field on the farm of Peashills, which appear to have 
 formed ornaments of some kind, and were of the value 
 of £14. 
 
 BALMORE, a village, in the parish of Balder- 
 nock, county of Stirling ; containing 158 inhabitants. 
 Vol. L— 105 
 
 It lies in the south-eastern portion of the parish, on the 
 road between Torrance and Bardowie, and about half a 
 mile south of the Kelvin water. 
 
 BALMULLO, a village, in the parish of Leuchars, 
 district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 6 miles (E. S. 
 E.) from St. Andrew's ; containing 2*4 inhabitant.'. 
 This village is pleasantly situated on the road to Dundee, 
 and chiefly inhabited by persons employed in weaving 
 and in agriculture. There is a place of worship for 
 United Original Seceders. 
 
 BALNABRUACH, a village, in the parish of Tar- 
 bat, county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 167 
 inhabitants. . It is a small place, situated on the eastern 
 coast, and chiefly inhabited by fishermen. 
 
 BALNA-HUAIGH ISLE, one of the Hebrides, in 
 the parish of Jura, district of Islay, county of Ar- 
 gyll. It is north of the island of Jura, and of Luing 
 Sound. The isle is about a mile in circumference, and 
 entirely composed of a bluish-coloured slate, of good 
 quality. A number of families who derive their sub- 
 sistence from the quarry, reside upon the isle. 
 
 BALNASUIM, a village, in the parish of Wee«i, 
 county of Perth ; containing 48 inhabitants. 
 
 BALQ,UHIDDER,a parish, in the county of Perth, 
 9 miles (S. by W.) from Killin ; containing, with the 
 villages of Strathyre and Lochearnhead, 87 1 inhabitants. 
 This parish, whose name, descriptive of its situation in 
 the county, is derived from the Gaelic, is about eighteen 
 miles in length, and rather more than six miles in 
 breadth. The surface is very irregular, and compre- 
 hends a rich variety of valleys and hills, of level lands 
 and deep glens, and of lofty rocks rising abruptly from 
 the plains. The principal hills are Benvorlich, Ben- 
 chroin, Benvane, Binean, Benchoin, and Bentallachan. 
 In the hill of Craigruigh, Robert Bruce is said to have 
 concealed himself after the defeat of his forces in the 
 battle of Dalrey. The river Balvag, over which are two 
 bridges in good repair, rises in Loch Voil, winds for 
 several miles through the parish, and falls into Loch 
 Lubnaig ; and the small river Calair, which issues from 
 Glenbuckie, though generally a peaceful stream, at times 
 overflows its banks, and acquires the rapidity of a 
 torrent. There are numerous lakes in the parish, the 
 principal of which are Loch Voil, Loch Doine, and parts 
 of Loch Lubnaig and Loch Earn. The scenery is also 
 richly embellished with woods, consisting mostly of oak, 
 birch, alder, and common and mountain ash ; and with 
 thriving plantations, chiefly of Scotch and spruce firs, 
 and larch-trees, for all of which the ground is well 
 adapted. At Edinample is an ancient castle belonging 
 to the Marquess of Breadalbane, embosomed in a wood 
 of lofty plane-trees, near which is a beautiful cascade. 
 
 The soil in the lower lands is fertile ; the hills alford 
 pasture, and there are considerable tracts of good mea- 
 dow. The system of agriculture is improved, and great 
 attention is paid to the improvement of the breeds of 
 cattle and sheep ; the former are chiefly of the 'West 
 Highland breed, and the latter, which are of the black- 
 faced kind, command a ready sale in the neighbouring 
 markets. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £6100. The rocks are mainly mica and clay 
 slate, with quartz, porphyry, and primitive greenstone. 
 Edinample Castle, an ancient mansion romantically 
 situated, and Glenbuckie House, a handsome modern 
 residence, are the only houses of distinction. Ecclesi-
 
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 BANC 
 
 astically the parish is within the bounds of the pres- 
 bytery of Dunblane and synod of Perth and Stirling : 
 the stipend of the incumbent is £275. 15. 11.; the 
 manse is a comfortable residence, and the glebe is of the 
 annual value of £20. The church, situated nearly in 
 the centre of the parish, is an ancient edifice, adapted 
 for a congregation of 4'25 persons. The parochial school 
 affords a liberal course of instruction ; the master has a 
 salary of £34. 4. 4^., with £8 fees, a house, and two 
 bolls of meal in lieu of a garden. In a field near the 
 manse is an upright stone, about five feet in height, 
 called Puidrac ; but nothing of its history is known : to 
 the east of it is a spot celebrated as the scene of a despe- 
 rate battle between the families of McLaren and Leney. 
 The late Sir John Mac Gregor Murray, Bart., an eminent 
 Gaelic scholar, and an indefatigable collector of the 
 writings of the ancient Gaelic bards, and who, holding 
 the rank of colonel in the British army, raised at his own 
 expense a regiment of infantry for the service of his 
 country, which was commanded by his brother Colonel 
 Alexander Mac Gregor Murray, was, together with his 
 brother, buried in the family vault in this parish. 
 
 BALTA, a small islet, in the parish of Unst, county 
 of Shetland. This is nearly the northernmost isle of 
 the Shetland range. It is situated in the latitude of 
 60° 4*' north, and on the east side of Unst island, the 
 sea between being called Balta Sound. Here the shore 
 of Unst forms a fine and safe inland harbour, stretching 
 east to west about two miles, protected at its mouth by 
 the isle of Balta. 
 
 BALWAHANAID, a hamlet, in the parish of Weem, 
 county of Perth ; containing 23 inhabitants. 
 
 BALWHERNE, a hamlet, in the parish of Meth- 
 VEN, county of Perth ; containing 60 inhabitants. 
 
 BANCHORY-DEVEMCK, a parish, partly within, 
 and partly without, the city of Aberdeen, district and 
 county of Aberdeen, but mostly in the county of Kin- 
 cardine ; including the villages of Downies, Findon, 
 and Portlethen, and containing 2736 inhabitants. The 
 distinctive appellation of Devenick is derived from a 
 celebrated saint of that name, who flourished about the 
 year S87, and at one time ministered in this parish. 
 The figure of the parish is extremely irregular ; its ex- 
 tent from north-east to the southernmost point at the 
 sea is about eight miles, and its breadth varies from two 
 miles and a half to four miles. The river Dee, which 
 passes through it, and here divides the two counties, 
 rises among the highest of the mountains of Aberdeen- 
 shire, and after a course of upwards of sixty miles, falls 
 into the bay of Aberdeen, about a mile and a half 
 below the eastern extremity of the parish. Its span 
 near the church is from ISO to 250 feet. Some years 
 ago, a handsome suspension foot-bridge, connecting the 
 parishioners of the Aberdeenshire district with the 
 church and school, was erected over the river, at an 
 expense of about £1450, by the Rev. Dr. Morison, the 
 late venerable incumbent of the parish, and father of 
 the Church of Scotland. The Kincardineshire district 
 is bisected by the eastern range of the Grampians, the 
 most elevated part of which afforded a station for the 
 persons who were employed a short time since, by 
 government, to make a trigonometrical survey of the 
 island. For a distance of about three miles this district 
 is bounded on the south by the sea, the coast of which is 
 bold, rocky, and in many parts highly picturesque. 
 106 
 
 The soil is diversified, running through all the varie- 
 ties, from pure alluvial to hard till, and from rich loam 
 to deep moss. Agriculture is much attended to ; the 
 farms are generally small, and the farmers supply the 
 town of Aberdeen with agricultural produce. The 
 population is entirely rural, and has been much in- 
 creased of late years by the allotment of portions ot 
 uncultivated land to small tenants, who hold their 
 farms under improving leases, and by whose means the 
 greater part of the waste ground in the parish has been 
 reclaimed. These tenants are mainly supported by the 
 sale of peat from the extensive mosses in the parish, the 
 preparation of peat forming a lucrative occupation to a 
 considerable portion of the population, during the 
 summer. Abundance of blue granite is to be found in 
 the hilly parts : owing, however, to the hardness of its 
 quality, it is not quarried to any extent, but is chiefly 
 used as paving-stones for home use and for the London 
 market. There are several plantations in the parish, 
 one of them covering 250 acres ; but those which are 
 near the sea are not in a thriving state, as there is no 
 shelter against the blighting influence of the east wind. 
 In former times, it appears that forests of oak extended 
 to the sea-shore, where no tree can now be raised. The 
 annual value of real property in Banchory-Devenick is 
 £6946. On the coast are three harbours for fishing- 
 boats, Findon, Portlethen, and Downies : the villages 
 thus named, conjointh' contain a population of about 
 600 ; they send to sea about eighteen boats manned by 
 from four to five men each, and are celebrated for the 
 smoked fish w-ell known by the general name of Finnan 
 (Findon) haddocks. The great road from Edinburgh to 
 Aberdeen passes through the parish, at about the dis- 
 tance of a mile from the three villages; and the line 
 of railway from the south to Aberdeen runs between the 
 above road and the sea. A beautiful line of turnpike- 
 road extends along the south side of the river Dee, from 
 the old Dee bridge nearly to Banchory-Ternan ; and an- 
 other turnpike-road, from Aberdeen to Ballater, runs 
 through the Aberdeenshire division of the parish. 
 
 Banchory-Devenick is within the bounds of the pres- 
 bytery and synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of 
 the Crown: the minister's stipend is £150, being made 
 up to that sum by an annual allowance from the ex- 
 chequer of £22. IS. 10. The church, which contains 
 900 sittings, was built in the year 1822, on the site of 
 a former edifice, the bell of which bears the date of 
 1597 : the coping-stone of the old churchyard is dated 
 1608. At Portlethen, four miles from the church, is a 
 church in connexion with the Establishment, with a 
 minister of its own ; and two Free churches have been 
 raised in the parish, one in the Kincardineshire and the 
 other in the Aberdeenshire division, and each about half 
 a mile from the parish church. The former of these Free 
 churches has a settled minister, but none has been 
 provided as yet for the latter. The parochial school is 
 situated near the church : the master has a salary of 
 £30 from the heritors ; £20 from a bequest left by 
 Dr. Milne, of India, for educating twenty-five poor 
 children nominated by the kirk-session ; a third of the 
 usual allowance from Dick's bequest, and other per- 
 quisites. There is a school at Portlethen, which is 
 noticed under the head of that place : and at Cults, in 
 the Aberdeenshire division, is a school erected by 
 Mr. Symmers, late proprietor at Cults, and endowed by 
 
 ■if
 
 BANC 
 
 BANC 
 
 him to the amount of about £'25 a year. A school is 
 hltewise held in connexion with the Free Church, and 
 there is a female school, erected by the late Mr. Hogg, 
 of Shannaburn, partly endowed by him, and partly by 
 Dr. Morison. Sabbath schools are taught by the 
 teachers of all these schools, except the female school. 
 There is a parish library, consisting of a good many 
 volumes ; also a parish savings' bank, instituted in 
 1S16, of which the minister is treasurer, and which con- 
 tains deposits from the parishioners to the amount of 
 nearly £5000. The antiquities of the parish consist of 
 twoDruidical circles, in a fine state of preservation; and 
 of three very large tumuli, in an elevated situation, on the 
 north side of the river. In Her Majesty's visit to Scot- 
 land in September 1S48, the royal family, after landing 
 at Aberdeen, passed through this parish on their way to 
 Balmoral. 
 
 BANCHORY-TERNAN, a parish, in the county of 
 Kincardine, 15 miles (N. W.) from Stonehaven; con- 
 taining, with the villages of Arbeadie and Banchory, 
 '2'341 inhabitants, of whom 66 are in Banchory. This 
 place, the name of which, signifying "a fine choir", 
 has reference to some ancient religiovis establishment, 
 and the adjunct Ternan most probably to its patron 
 saint, is of very remote antiquity. St. Terne, or Ter- 
 nanus, who is said to have been a native of Mearns, 
 flourished about the middle of the fifth century. He 
 accompanied Palladius in his mission to the Irish Scots ; 
 and by him he was ordained, and commissioned to ex- 
 tirpate the Pelagian heresy, and to establish the true 
 faith among his own countrymen. In this undertaking, 
 his eminent success and the sanctity of his life obtained 
 for him a high degree of veneration ; and many churches 
 were afterwards erected and dedicated to his memory, 
 among which was the church of this parish. In 156*2, a 
 battle took place between the army of Mary, Queen of 
 Scots, under the Earl of Moray, and the forces of the 
 Earl of Huntly, at the Howe of Corrichie, a glen in the 
 hill of Faro, towards the northern boundary of the 
 parish. The latter were defeated with great slaughter, 
 and the Earl of Huntly, who was taken prisoner, died 
 before he was removed from the field of battle. In the 
 bottom of the glen are several tumuli, raised over the 
 bodies of the slain ; and a recess among the rocks over- 
 looking the glen, in which Mary is said to have wit- 
 nessed the engagement, is still called the Queen's Chair. 
 There are also numerous tumuli on the north side of 
 Glassel, where the chief carnage took place. In 1644, 
 the Duke of Montrose, having crossed the river Dee at 
 a ford near the Mills of Drum, in this parish, passed a 
 night at the house of Leys, and next day proceeded to 
 Aberdeen, where he encountered and defeated an army 
 of the Covenanters ; and the remains of his encampment 
 on a subsequent occasion, on his route to Strathbogie, 
 are still pointed out, under the appellation of Montrose's 
 Dyke, near the entrance of the Howe of Corrichie. 
 
 The PARISH is situated on the river Dee, which inter- 
 sects the southern portion of it, from west to cast, 
 throughout its whole extent. It is nearly ten miles in 
 length and about nine miles in breadth, of irregular 
 form, and comprises an area of "21,600 acres, of which 
 rather more than 6000 are arable, 5230 woodland and 
 plantations, and the remainder, a considerable portion 
 of which might be brought into cultivation, is ni(^dow, 
 pasture, and waste. The surface is strikingly diversified 
 107 
 
 with hill and dale, and with wood and water. The hill 
 of Fare, on the north, has an elevation of 1793 feet : 
 that of Kerloack, on the south, forming a part of the 
 Grampian range, and extending eastward to the sea at 
 Aberdeen, is 1890 feet high; and between these is a 
 lower ridge, of which the greatest elevation is not more 
 than 1000 feet. That portion of the parish which is on 
 the south side of the Dee is intersected by the river 
 Feugh, and is richly wooded, and interspersed with 
 masses of barren and precipitous rock ; the scenery is 
 bold, enlivened with numerous rivulets, and embellished 
 with handsome mansions. At the eastern extremity is 
 Loch Drum, in the adjoining parish of Drumoak, which 
 has been nearly exhausted by draining ; and in the cen- 
 tral portion is Loch Leys, containing an artificial island, 
 formed on piles of oak, with remains on it of ancient 
 houses that appear to have been fortified. The river 
 Dee, which enters the parish near Trustach Hill, flows 
 along a rocky channel ; and its stream is divided by 
 two small islands, one of which, about eight acres in 
 extent, is covered with furze and heath, and the other, 
 of about one acre, and of greater elevation above the 
 stream, is planted with trees. The Feugh, after form- 
 ing various pleasing falls, divides into two channels, 
 which, reuniting, flow into the Dee nearly in the centre 
 of the parish. Before it joins the Dee, the Feugh is 
 spanned by a bridge of two arches, on the south of 
 which is a ledge of rocks twenty feet in height, forming 
 a very beautiful waterfall during the floodings of the 
 river. 
 
 The SOIL varies greatly in different parts, but is gene- 
 rally light, and not naturally fertile ; towards the river, 
 gravelly ; on the higher grounds, a strong loam ; and 
 on the lower, a species of moss, intermixed with gravel. 
 The system of agriculture is improved ; the chief crops 
 are oats, barley, and some wheat, with potatoes, tur- 
 nips, and hay. The moorlands afford tolerable pas- 
 ture for sheep and cattle, to the improvement of which 
 much attention has been excited by the Deeside Agricul- 
 tural Association, which holds its annual meeting here, 
 and awards prizes to the amount of £70 to the most 
 successful competitors at the show of cattle. The 
 dairy-farms are more carefully attended to than for- ' 
 merly. The buildings are substantial and commodious, 
 and threshing-mills have been erected on most of the 
 farms. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £7479. The hills are principally of red granite, tra- 
 versed by veins of sulphate of barytes ; and limestone, 
 in some parts of coarse and inferior quality, and in 
 others compact and highly crystallized, is found in 
 abundance, and is extensively quarried on the lands of 
 TilwliiJly for agricultural purposes. 
 
 The plantations, which are of very great extent, con- 
 sist chiefly of pine and larch, interspersed with birch, 
 oak, beech, ash, and a few other trees. They are of 
 comparatively modern growth, and considerable addi- 
 tions have within the last few years been made to the 
 number of forest-trees, of which nearly 70,000 oaks 
 have been planted on the lands of Leys. On the road 
 to Aberdeen is a remarkably fine holly of more than 
 twenty stems, springing from the crevices of a rock ; 
 and in the grounds of Crathes Castle is a beech-tree 
 twenty-five feet in girth and sixty feet high. Crathes 
 Castle, the seat of Sir Alexander Burnett, Bart., a hand- 
 some baronial mansion erected about the year 1512, is 
 
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 BANC 
 
 B AN F 
 
 finely situated on a gentle acclivity, at the extremity of 
 a rocky and richly-wooded ridge, on the north bank of 
 the Dee. It is a spacious structure, with a lofty square 
 tower crowned by embattled turrets, and many modern 
 additions have been made. The ancient hall is still 
 entire, and contains some family portraits, among which 
 is a portrait of Dr. Gilbert Burnett, Bishop of Salisbury, 
 by Sir Godfrey Kneller. The castle of Tihvhilly, on the 
 opposite bank of the river, is an ancient massive build- 
 ing, in the occupation of the tenant of the farm. Ban- 
 chory Lodge, a few hundred yards from the church, was 
 erected by the late General Burnett. Inchmarlo is a 
 handsome mansion, erected in ISOO; and Glassel and 
 Raenioir are also good modern houses. The village of 
 Banchory, or the Kirktown, which was anciently a 
 burgh of barony, and is noticed in 1324 as a place of 
 considerable importance, has almost disappeared ; and 
 only a few houses in the vicinity of the churchyard, 
 called the Town Head, are now remaining, and the 
 shaft of a broken stone cross. A small woollen-factory 
 has been established, and there are likewise two small 
 bobbin-factories. Salmon are taken in the Dee, but there 
 is no regular fishery. Fairs, chiefly for horses, cattle, 
 and sheep, are held on the second Tuesday in February, 
 the last Thursday in March, the third Tuesday in June, 
 the first Tuesday in July, the second Tuesday in August, 
 and the first Wednesday in December. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil and synod 
 of Aberdeen; Sir Alexander Burnett, Bart., is patron, and 
 the minister's stipend is £"287 . 10. 9-, with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £10 per annum. The church, rebuilt in 
 1824, is a handsome structure in the later English 
 style, and contains 1300 sittings. A place of worship 
 has been erected in connexion with the Free Church ; 
 and in the village of Arbeadie is a meeting-house for 
 Independents. There are three parochial schools, the 
 masters of which divide among them £51. 6. 6|-., in 
 addition to a house and garden for each, and the fees 
 average respectively £20, £16, and £10 per annum. A 
 school was founded and endowed in 1638, by Sir Thomas 
 , Burnett in conjunction with Dr. Alexander Reid, and 
 is conducted by one of the parochial schoolmasters, who 
 derives an additional salary of £16 from the endowment. 
 A parochial library has also been established, which has 
 a collection of more than 400 volumes, chiefly on reli- 
 gious subjects. At Cairnton, on the hill of Trustach, 
 are some remains of an old intrenchment, now covered 
 with birch, about 1.50 yards square, defended by two 
 ramparts of earth 300 yards in length, extending from 
 the inclosure in a converging direction, leaving an 
 opening of about twenty yards in width at their ex- 
 tremities : it is supposed to have been a Roman camp. 
 Near Kerloack are Druidical remains consisting of three 
 circles of upright stones, nearly entire, the largest of 
 which is about twenty-five yards in diameter, and the 
 others about fifteen yards : in each of them are vestiges 
 of an inner circle inclosing a small cairn. Bishops 
 Burnett and Douglas, both of the see of Salisbury, 
 were descended from families connected with this parish ; 
 and Dr. George Campbell, author of the celebrated 
 Dissertation on Miracles, The Philosophy of Rhetoric, &c., 
 was for some years minister of it. In Her Majesty's 
 visit to Scotland in September 1848, the royal party 
 passed through Banchory on their way from Aberdeen 
 108 
 
 Seal and Arms. 
 
 to Balmoral, and here a loyal address was presented to 
 the queen from the nobility and gentry of the county of 
 Kincardine. 
 
 BANETON, or B.wnton, a village, in the parish of 
 Kennoway, district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, 
 1 mile (N. N. E.) from Kennoway ; containing 204 in- 
 habitants. It is in the north-eastern portion of the 
 parish, and a little north of the road between Kennoway 
 and Cupar. 
 
 BANFF, asea-port, burgh, 
 market-town, and parish, in 
 the county of Banff, of which 
 it is the chief town, 165 miles 
 (N. by E.) from Edinburgh, 
 and on the road from Aber- 
 deen to Inverness ; contain- 
 ing 3958 inhabitants. This 
 place, called in ancient re- 
 cords Bainiffe, Boineffe, &c., 
 appears to have derived its 
 name from the district in 
 which it issituated,andwhich 
 obtained the appellation of Boyn from the Gaelic, signi- 
 fying " a stream ", in reference to the river Boyn, by 
 which the district is intersected. The town, previously 
 to the middle of the I6th century, was little more than 
 a small fishing-village. It seems to have owed its 
 origin to the foundation of a Carmelite monastery, 
 that was occasionally the residence of some of the 
 Scottish kings ; and to the erection of a castle, governed 
 by a thane, or constable, who administered justice, and 
 of which the only vestiges now remaining are, a portion 
 of the outer walls, and the ditch whereby it was sur- 
 rounded. Few transactions of historical importance 
 occur with reference to the place. In 1644, the lairds 
 of Gight, Newtow'ii, and Ardlogie, with a party of horse 
 and foot, made an irruption into the town, levying ex- 
 actions upon the bailies, in the absence of the provost, 
 who had taken flight, and compelling them and the 
 townsmen to abjure the covenant, and acknowledge 
 submission to the king and his deputies, as formerly. 
 In the following year, the Marquess of Montrose entered 
 the town with a hostile force, plundered the inhabitants, 
 and burnt several of their houses, in compensation for 
 which losses, they obtained, on their petition to parlia- 
 ment, a grant of their own excise. In 1*46, the Duke 
 of Cumberland's troops, on their march to Culloden, 
 passed through the town, burnt the episcopal chapel, 
 and hanged one of the inhabitants, whom they suspected 
 of being a spy ; and in 1759, a French fleet under the 
 command of Thurot appeared off the coast ; but the 
 apprehensions of the inhabitants were relieved by the 
 dispersion of the vessels in a storm, before the enemy 
 attempted to effect a landing. A battery of eighteen and 
 twenty-four pounders was subsequently erected on the 
 heights immediately above the harbour, at an expense 
 of £400, defrayed by the inhabitants ; but soon after 
 the peace, it was dismounted, and the cannon returned 
 to the government, by whom they had been supplied. 
 
 The TOWN consists of two portions, detached from 
 each other ; one of which, constituting the port, stands 
 on an elevated level, terminating abruptly towards the 
 Moray Firth, and having the battery at its northern 
 extremity. Between this and the other portion, which 
 is partly on the plain, and partly on the declivity of 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 I
 
 B A N F 
 
 B A N F 
 
 the bank of the river Doverou, is the present castle, a 
 plain modern building occupying an elevated site, and 
 commanding the sweep of the river, with the fine slope 
 on the opposite side, surmounted with the woods of 
 Mountcoffer. The streets are regular and spacious, and 
 the houses, though unequal in size, are in general neatly 
 built ; most of the older houses have been taken down, 
 and rebuilt in a modern style, and the town retains few 
 indications of its real antiquity. The streets are lighted 
 with gas by a joint-stock company established in 1831 ; 
 the inhabitants are supplied with water, conveyed into 
 the town by pipes laid down in ISIO at an expense of 
 £1100, and there are pumps attached to several of the 
 houses. Hot, cold, and shower baths, fitted up with 
 every accommodation, have been established by a com- 
 pany. In connexion with a literary society founded in 
 ISIO, and which has a library of 2000 volumes, is a 
 reading room, well supplied with newspapers and the 
 most popular periodical prints. An institution for the 
 cultivation of science and the encouragement of native 
 talent, was founded in 18'28, and has collected a museum 
 of natural history, antiquities, and curiosities, among 
 which is a very e.vtensive collection of the most beauti- 
 ful shells found in Java and in the Eastern Archipelago. 
 A room in the academy buildings is appropriated to the 
 use of the scientific institution, and the literary society 
 occupies a room in the town-house. 
 
 A principal tr,\de of the port is the herring-fishery, 
 which, within the last thirty or forty years, has been 
 established on the shores of the Firth with considerable 
 success, and is still very prosperous. The quantity of 
 fish cured in the district of Banff, which extends from 
 Gardenstown to Portsoy, is in favourable seasons about 
 30,000 barrels, of which one-half are sent to Germany, 
 a considerable quantity to London, and the remainder 
 to Ireland. The number of herring-boats from the port 
 of BanlF alone, has fluctuated exceedingly, and is at pre- 
 sent very much reduced, probably from the want of 
 room near the harbour for the erection of the requisite 
 buildings, and from the higher rate of dues ; but the 
 general herring-trade of the district is still flourishing. 
 Cod, ling, and turbot are found in abundance off the 
 coast, and if prosecuted with spirit, the fishery of them 
 might add greatly to the trade of the port. Lobsters, 
 crabs, shrimps, and other fish are brought to the 
 markets, but only for home consumption, though the 
 bay abounds with shrimps, which might be made a 
 profitable branch of trade. The salmon-fishery in the 
 river Doveron, which is the property of Lord Fife, is 
 let for £1600 per annum, and on each side of the estuary 
 is a fishery in the open sea, one being let by the cor- 
 poration for £191 per annum; the salmon are sent, 
 either packed in ice or pickled, principally to the London 
 market. A very considerable trade is also carried on in 
 the exportation of grain, live cattle, and cured pork ; 
 and in the importation of coal, groceries, and other 
 commodities. During a late year, 29,790 quarters of 
 oats, 1 174 quarters of wheat, 976 quarters of barley and 
 bear, and 194 bags of potato-flour, were shipped from 
 the port, chiefly for London and Leith ; and 440 head 
 of live cattle, 911 pigs, and 156 sheep and lambs, for 
 the London market alone. The trade in cattle has since 
 greatly increased ; and in 1841 not less than 1792 head 
 of cattle were sent to London. More grain is sent to 
 London from the port of Banff than from all Scotland 
 109 
 
 besides. The number of vessels registered at Banff as 
 the head of the district, some years ago, was sixty-seven, 
 of the aggregate burthen of 4301 tons; of these, ten 
 schooners of 878 tons', and eleven sloops of 657 tons' 
 aggregate burthen, belonged to this port, and the re- 
 mainder to the several creeks of Fraserburgh, Gardens- 
 town, Macduff, Portsoy, Port-Gordon, and Garmouth. 
 In 1847 the number of registered vessels had increased 
 to 114, of the aggregate burthen of 9396 tons. Seve- 
 ral of these vessels make voyages to Sweden, for iron 
 and deals ; to Russia, for hemp ; and to Holland, for 
 flax ; and, in the autumn, frequently to Hamburgh 
 and Stettin, with cargoes of herrings, bringing in return 
 grain, wool, bark, and hides. 
 
 The HARBOUR is situated at the western extremity of 
 a circular bay, at the opposite extremity of which are 
 the town and harbour of Macduff ; both these extremi- 
 ties' are rocky, and between them is a beach of sand. 
 The old or inner harbour, completed in 1775, was 
 formed by two piers and the land, inclosing a triangular 
 area, having at the angle towards the north-north-east 
 an entrance which, in I8I6, was protected by a new- 
 pier and breakwater, forming a basin or outer harbour 
 to the north of the former. This addition was made 
 under the superintendence of the late Mr. Telford, at an 
 expense of £18,000, one-half of which was defrayed by 
 government ; and though not productive of all the bene- 
 fit expected from it, ships having since been wrecked in 
 the new basin, it has still materially diminished the 
 swell in the old harbour, now one of the safest in the 
 Moray Firth, and has afforded additional facilities for 
 the entrance and departure of vessels. A vessel drawing 
 twelve feet water can enter the new basin at high- water 
 of neap tides, and one drawing fifteen feet, at spring 
 tides ; and vessels drawing respectively eight feet and ten 
 and a half feet water, may enter the old harbour at high- 
 water of neap and of spring tides. A patent slip on 
 Morton's principle has been constructed. 
 
 Ship-building is occasionally carried on ; and there is 
 a small manufactory for ropes and sails, chiefly for home 
 use. The thread and stocking manufacture, formerly 
 pursued here, has been discontinued some years. A 
 public brewery, erected on the high ground above the 
 harbour, was once conducted on a large scale, but of 
 late it has been confined to the supply of the immediate 
 neighbourhood : a distillery at the Mill of Banff, about 
 a mile from the town, produces on an average from 
 11,000 to 12,000 gallons of proof spirits annually. A 
 foundry for machinery, grates, ploughshares, and various 
 kinds of cast- metal work, was established about twenty 
 years since by Messrs. Fraser, and affords employment 
 to ten men ; the works are set in motion by a steam- 
 engine of six-horse power, constructed by the propri- 
 etors. The market is on Friday, and is well supplied 
 with fish of every kind ; there are no cattle-markets, 
 and though by charter the inhabitants are allowed seven 
 or eight fairs, only four are held, and of these the Whit- 
 sun fair alone is of any consideration. Coaches pass 
 daily to and from Aberdeen and Elgin, and to and from 
 Peterhead. In 1846 an act was obtained authorizing 
 the construction of a railway from Aberdeen to Inverness, 
 with branches to Banff and other places. 
 
 From a grant of a toft and garden in the burgh by 
 William the Lion, in 1165, to his chaplain, Douglas, 
 Bishop of Moray, the town appears to have been pre-
 
 B A NF 
 
 viously a royal burgh ; and according to tradition, it 
 received from Malcolm Canmore those privileges which 
 were ratified by Robert Bruce, and subsequently, in 
 137'2, by Robert 11. , who also conferred upon the inha- 
 bitants liberties equal to those of Aberdeen, which were 
 afterwards confirmed by James VI. and Charles II. 
 The government is vested in a provost, four bailies, a 
 dean of guild, a treasurer, and ten councillors, all elected 
 by the £10 constituency. The corporation revenue is 
 about £935. The taxes and assessments for the burgh 
 are not imposed as in other burghs, by the magistrates 
 and council, but by the inhabitants themselves, assem- 
 bled in a special court for that purpose. The affairs of 
 police are under the management of commissioners, who 
 are elected in accordance with the provisions of a parti- 
 cular act of parliament, and by whose authority the 
 police rates are levied and expended. No one, legally 
 speaking, can carry on business without becoming a 
 member of the merchant-guildry of Banff, or of the in- 
 corporated trades, which are six in number, namely, the 
 hammermen, wrights, shoemakers, tailors, coopers, and 
 weavers, who all claim exclusive privileges. In practice, 
 however, for some years past, the burgh has been per- 
 fectly open in this respect, and all exclusive privileges 
 and monopolies are abolished. It is classed with 
 Elgin, Cullen, Inverury, Kintore, and Peterhead, in re- 
 turning a member to the imperial parliament ; and the 
 parliamentary constituency of Banff includes the qualified 
 voters in the neighbouring, and otherwise independent, 
 burgh of Macduff. The town-hall, a spacious but plain 
 building, erected within the last sixty or seventy years, 
 occupies two sides of a quadrangle, with a tower at the 
 external angle, of older date, surmounted by a spire of 
 graceful proportion, together 100 feet high ; the build- 
 ing is of hewn stone, three stories in height, and contains 
 a hall, two large drawing-rooms, a council-chamber, a 
 court-room for the sheriff's court, offices for the cham- 
 berlain and sheriff clerks, &c. The old prison contained 
 two apartments, each nineteen feet square, for the recep- 
 tion of civil prisoners ; and two cells for criminals ; but 
 it was badly arranged, and totally inadequate for the 
 purpose of classification. The new jail, by which the 
 old one has been superseded, is built on the most ap- 
 proved principles. 
 
 The PARISH formed part of that of Boindie from the 
 Reformation until about 1634. It measures about six 
 miles and a half in length, and is two miles and a half 
 in breadth in the centre, from which, towards each ex- 
 tremity, it diminishes materially; comprehending about 
 6312 acres, of which 3778 are good arable land, 1161 
 uncultivated and in pasture, and about '2'20 wood. It is 
 bounded on the east by the river Doveron, which has its 
 source on the confines of the counties of Aberdeen and 
 Banff, and falls into the sea at the town ; and on the 
 west, by the burn of Boindie, by which it is separated 
 from the parish of that name. Over the former of these 
 rivers, close to the town, is a substantial stone bridge of 
 seven semicircular arches, erected at the expense of go- 
 vernment, in 1*79; and over the latter, are two stone 
 bridges of two arches each. The surface is very uneven, 
 rising in the lower part of the parish from 200 to 300 
 feet above the sea, and forming an eminence called the 
 Gallow Hill ; while in the upper part of the parish are 
 eminences of much greater elevation, though less raised 
 above the surface of the adjacent lands. The svstcm of 
 110 
 
 B A N F 
 
 agriculture is improved ; and within the last forty or 
 fifty years a large tract of land, previously in pasture, 
 has been brought under tillage. Draining has also been 
 carried on to a very considerable extent, and the greater 
 portion of the land is inclosed with fences of stone ; the 
 farm-houses and offices are generally well built, and 
 many of them afford superior accommodations. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £12,889, 
 including £6977 for the burgh. The substrata are 
 chiefly clay-slate and greywacke. At Cairn of Ord, in the 
 south-western part of the parish, is found granite, which 
 in some places rises to the surface ; it is of excellent 
 quality for building, and has been quarried for that pur- 
 pose, but on account of its distance from the sea, it has 
 not been worked to any great extent. 
 
 In several parts the scenery is pleasing, and in others 
 romantic and picturesque. The river Doveron, on its 
 first entering the parish, winds into a rocky glen, whose 
 steep sides, crowned with luxuriant wood, are connected 
 by a circular arch of stone. Beyond this point, the glen 
 gradually expands into an open valley, round the eastern 
 side of which the river forms a graceful curve, inclosing 
 the plain whereon Duff House is situated. The road 
 from Aberdeen winds round the verge of a verdant hill, 
 on the extremity of which, sloping towards the sea, and 
 stretching into the bay, is the town of Macduff; and on 
 the western side, near the bend of the river, rises a pre- 
 cipitous bank, on whose summit is to be seen the mau- 
 soleum of the Duff family, embosomed in sheltering 
 woods, and near it a funereal urn containing some hu- 
 man bones that were found on the spot, which was 
 the cemetery of the ancient Carmelite monastery. Duff 
 House, the splendid residence of the Earl of Fife, occu- 
 pies the grounds formerly belonging to the monastery, 
 which were conveyed in 1630 to Lord Airlie, and in 1690 
 to the Duff family, who in 1752 purchased the superi- 
 ority, which had been granted by James VI. to King's 
 College, Aberdeen. The mansion was erected about the 
 middle of the last century, by Lord Braco, after a design 
 by Adam, the first of the celebrated architects of that 
 name, at an expense of £70,000. It is a spacious qua- 
 drilateral structure of freestone, in the Roman style of 
 architecture, and contains a choice collection of paintings 
 of the Flemish and Italian schools, and numerous por- 
 traits by the most eminent masters. The demesne is 
 richly planted ; it comprehends much interesting scenery, 
 and from many points commands extensive and varied 
 prospects. 
 
 The parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of 
 Fordyce and synod of Aberdeen : the minister's stipend 
 is £245. 19- 9-, with a manse, and the glebe is valued at 
 £45 ; patron, the Earl of Seafield. Banff church, situ- 
 ated on the south side of the town, is a plain struc- 
 ture, erected in 1790, and capable of containing 1500 
 persons. The interior is chastely decorated, and has 
 some handsome monuments of marble, one of which, by 
 Bacon, representing a soldier weeping over a funereal 
 vase, is finely executed, and was erected by Sir David 
 Ochterlony, and the army under his command, to the 
 memory of Lieut. -Col. Peter Lawtie, a native of this place. 
 A chapel in connexion with the Established Church, for 
 a district including the more remote portion of the parish 
 and others adjoining, and a manse, have been erected at 
 the upper end of the parish, at an expense of £600 ; the 
 stipend of the minister is derived from the seat-rents. 
 
 t
 
 B A N F 
 
 B A N F 
 
 augmented with £20 Royal bounty. There are places of 
 worship for members of the Free Church, Episcopalians, 
 the United Presbyterian Synod, Independents, and Wes- 
 leyans, and a Roman Catholic chapel. 
 
 A grammar school was founded in 17S6, under the 
 direction of Dr. Chapman, formerly rector of the gram- 
 mar school of Dumfries ; the number of boys usually 
 attending is about 1 70, and the rector, who is obliged to 
 employ two qualified assistants, has a considerable salary 
 from the town. This school is endowed with funds, the 
 interest of which is regularly appropriated to the main- 
 tenance of sixteen bursaries; one, in the gift of the 
 presbytery of Fordyce, is worth about £30, and the 
 others are from £2 to £3 per annum. A free school was 
 founded by Mr. Alexander Pirie, who in 1804 bequeathed 
 to the town-council and kirk-session £1100 for that pur- 
 pose, with a tenement, and £100 for the erection of a 
 school-house and house for the master. Mr. George 
 Smith, a native of Fordyce, by will dated at Bombay, in 
 1769, vested in the magistrates of Banff the residue of 
 his estate, amounting to £10,297. 16. 6., of which he 
 appropriated £1000 to the endowment of an infirmary 
 in this town or at Fordyce, and £40 per annum to a 
 schoolmaster to educate as many boys of the name of 
 Smith as the funds would maintain, at £25 per annum 
 each. The dividends, amounting to £308. 18. 8., are 
 applied according to the will, and nine boys are main- 
 tained and educated. Mr. Ja7nes h'ilsoti, of Grenada, 
 vested the whole of his stock, after the decease of certain 
 annuitants, in the magistrates of Banff, to be appropri- 
 ated to charitable purposes, according to their discretion. 
 This estate, which ultimately produced £3561. 16. 1. 
 three per cents and £2647 in cash, was appropriated to 
 the erection of a splendid building, for an infant school, 
 a free school on the Madras system, and class-rooms for 
 the grammar school teachers, with a library and museum. 
 Mr. Alexander Cassy, a native of the town, then resident 
 in Pentouville, in 1S19, bequeathed the residue of his 
 estates to the magistrates, to be appropriated to the half- 
 yearly relief of aged and infirm persons and helpless or- 
 phans : of this property, £10,000 three per cents have 
 already fallen to the disposal of the trustees, who apply 
 the dividends. Mins Elizabeth Wilson, in 1825, bequeathed 
 to trustees the whole property of which she should die pos- 
 sessed, the produce to be appropriated to six poor trades- 
 men and six poor maidens : the annuitants receive from 
 £9 to £10 each per annum. Alexander Chalmers, Esq., of 
 Cluny, in 1834 bequeathed property which will amount 
 to £40,000, in trust, to the lord-lieutenant and member 
 for the county, the minister and magistrates of Banff, 
 and others, for the erection and endowment of an hos- 
 pital and dispensary, to be called Chalmers' Hospital, 
 for the county of Banff; the hospital to be erected on 
 the site of the residence of the founder. 
 
 Scarcely any vestiges of the ancient Carmelite monas- 
 tery arc remaining ; some arches, apparently parts of 
 cells, are still to be traced in the yard of the inn called 
 the Royal Oak, and near the foundry is a vaulted cham- 
 ber, now occupied by the boiler of the steam-engine be- 
 longing to that establishment. The building occupied 
 by Sir George Ogilvy, afterwards Lord Banff, and which 
 appears to have been regarded as a palace, from the oc- 
 casional visits to it by the Scottish kings, was destroyed 
 in 1640 by (liencral Monro, who, having marched into 
 the town, encamped in the gardens of the house, and 
 111 
 
 destroyed both them and the building, carrying away the 
 timber and iron-work, and leaving only the shattered walls, 
 a heap of ruins. That part of the town which is called the 
 Sea-town, is supposed to occupy the lands of the chapels 
 of the Holy Rood, St. Catherine, and St. Mary : a chapel 
 dedicated to St. Thomas is thought to have stood some- 
 where between the site of the parish church and St. An- 
 drew's chapel, and another chapel, dedicated to St.Ninian, 
 stood near the churchyard. The Knights Templars an- 
 ciently had a preceptory in the town ; their possessions 
 were erected into a lordship, in favour of Sir John 
 Sandilands, in 1563, and several small and scattered 
 portions of their lands appear to have passed into bur- 
 gage tenures. The old castle of Inchdrewer, erected 
 about the time of James IV. or James V., is still so 
 entire as to be habitable, and is now in the occupation 
 of a tenant ; it is chiefly memorable for the death of a 
 Lord Banff, who was burnt in it in 1713, under circum- 
 stances that have never been fully explained. Adjoining 
 the mausoleum of Lord Fife is an ancient monument, on 
 which is the recumbent figure of an armed warrior, with 
 the inscription, " Hie jacet Johannes Duff, de Maldavat et 
 Baldavi ; obiit 1 Julii, 1404": this monument, with the 
 ashes of the deceased, was brought from Cullen. James 
 Sharp, Archbishop of St. Andrew's, who was waylaid 
 and assassinated near that archiepiscopal city, was born 
 at Banff Castle, in 1613. 
 
 BANFFSHIRE, a maritime county, in the north-east 
 part of Scotland, bounded on the north by the Moray 
 Firth; on the east and south-east, by Aberdeenghirc; 
 and on the west, by the counties of Moray and Inver- 
 ness. It lies between 57° 5' and 57° 43' (N. lat.) and 
 2° 17' and 3° 37' (W. long.), and is about fifty miles in 
 length, varying from twenty miles to only three miles in 
 breadth. It comprises an area of about 647 square miles, 
 or 414,080 acres, and contains 11,149 inhabited houses, 
 with a population of 49,679, of whom 23,249 are males, 
 and 26,430 females. This county, which includes the 
 districts of Boyne, Enzie, Strath-Doveron, Strathaven, 
 Balvenie, and part of Buchan, was a sheriffdom in the 
 reign of David I., and, previously to the Reformation, 
 was included in the diocese of Moray. It is now partly 
 in the synod of Moray, and partly in that of Aberdeen, 
 and comprises several presbyteries, with twenty-four 
 parishes. The county contains the royal burghs of Banff 
 and Cullen, the former of which is the county town, and 
 several thriving and populous villages, whereof the chief 
 are Keith, Newmill, Gardenstown, Dufftown, Buckie, 
 Portsoy, and Macduff. Under the act of the 2nd of 
 William IV. it returns one member to the imperial par- 
 liament. 
 
 The surface is beautifully diversified with mountains 
 and vales, and the scenery enriched with woods and 
 plantations, and enlivened with rivers and lakes. The 
 principal mountains in the county are, Ben-Macdhui 
 and the Cairngorm, which have an elevation of more 
 than 4000 feet above the sea ; Benrinnes, rising from 
 the banks of the river Spcy to the height of 2747 feet ; 
 Knockhill, near the north termination of the Grampian 
 range, the Buck of Cabrach, and others, about 2500 feet 
 high. Its chief vales are, those of Strath-Doveron and 
 Strathaven, the former branching off to the right, and 
 the latter to the left, from the forest of Glenavon ; Glen- 
 Livet; and Glen-Fiddich, which last extends to the 
 strath of Balvenie. Its rivers are, the Spey, which has
 
 BANK 
 
 BANT 
 
 its source in Loch Spey, and after a long course falls 
 into the Moray Firth near Fochabers ; the Doveron, 
 which rises in the hills of Cabrach ; the Avon ; the 
 Livet ; and the Isla ; with countless smaller streams, 
 which turn numerous mills. The salmon-fisheries on 
 the Spey and the Doveron are extensive, the former 
 yielding a rental of £6000, and the latter of nearly 
 £2000 per annum. The coast, which extends for nearly 
 thirty miles, is bold and rocky, in some parts preci- 
 pitous ; and is much indented with small bays. 
 
 The soil, near the sea, is rich ; in the valleys, luxu- 
 riantly fertile ; and the mountainous districts afford 
 tolerable pasturage : the moors abound with game. 
 Nearly one-half of the land is under cultivation ; the 
 system of agriculture is in a highly improved state, and 
 much waste has been inclosed and rendered profitable. 
 The natural woods and the plantations are extensive 
 and well managed, and there are numerous oaks and 
 firs of extraordinary dimensions. The chief minerals 
 are ironstone and lead-ore, and there are some fine 
 quarries of limestone, freestone, gneiss, and granite : a 
 mine of manganese has lately been wrought to a great 
 extent by the Duke of Richmond near Tomintoul. In 
 this county the best seats are Gordon Castle, Glenfid- 
 dich. Duff House, Rothieraay, Banff Castle, Balvenie 
 Castle, Cullen House, Birkenbng, Forglen, Troup, Arn- 
 dilly, Baldorney, Ediugarth, and Kinnairdy. The prin- 
 cipal manufacture is that of linen. There are several 
 tanneries, some distilleries, and works in connexion with 
 the shipping, which is almost confined to the ports of 
 Banff, Macduff, Portsoy, and Gardenstown. The her- 
 ring-fishery is also very extensive, and is prosecuted 
 along the coasts with great industry and success. Faci- 
 lity of intercourse has been greatly promoted by many 
 excellent roads, constructed by commissioners appointed 
 under an act of parliament ; and the bridges over the 
 different streams are kept in good order. The annual 
 value of real property in the county is £124,347, of which 
 £ no, 60S are returned for lands, £8403 for houses, 
 £'2.59'3 for fisheries, £380 for quarries, and the remainder 
 for other kinds of real property. There are numerous 
 cairns, tumuli, ruins of ancient castles, and other monu- 
 ments of antiquity, all noticed in the respective articles 
 on the localities in which they are situated. 
 
 BANKEND, a village, in the parish of Caerlave- 
 ROCK, county of Dumfries, ^ a mile (S.) from Caerla- 
 verock ; containing 1S9 inhabitants. It lies in the 
 eastern portion of the parish, and on the west side of 
 the river Locher, which separates it from the parish of 
 Ruthwell. 
 
 BANKFOOT, a village, in the parish of Auchter- 
 GAVEN, county of Perth ; containing 760 inhabitants. 
 This village, which takes its name from its situation at 
 the base of an elevated ridge, on the road from Perth to 
 Dunkeld, is of very recent origin, having been wholly 
 built on lands leased for that purpose by Mr. Wylie. 
 The houses are neatly built, and chiefly inhabited by 
 persons employed in weaving for the manufacturers of 
 the neighbouring towns, and in various trades. A daily 
 post has been established, which forwards letters to 
 Perth ; and facility of intercourse is maintained by good 
 roads, kept in repair by statute labour. There is a con- 
 siderable trade in coal, for the supjjly of the adjacent 
 parts of the parish. A subscription library was opened 
 in 1822, under the direction of a committee of sub- 
 112 
 
 scribers ; the collection consists of about 300 volumes 
 on theological, historical, and literary subjects. There 
 are two places of worship for the United Presbyterian 
 Synod. 
 
 BANKHEAD, for a time a quoad sacra parish or dis- 
 trict, in the parish of Midmar, district of Kincardine 
 O'Neil, county of Aberdeen, 4 miles from Leggerdale. 
 It lies about a mile north of the road from Aberdeen to 
 Tarland, and two miles south of that to Alford ; the 
 soil of the district is generally light, and far from being 
 productive. The population is chiefly engaged in agri- 
 culture : and the females employ themselves, to a large 
 extent, in stocking-weaving. The quoad sacra parish 
 was within the bounds of the synod of Aberdeen and 
 presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil ; and the election of 
 the minister was vested in the communicants. The 
 church, now belonging to the Free Church, is a plain 
 substantial building, erected in 1832, by subscription, 
 and seated for 300 persons ; it stands in the north- 
 western part of the parish of Midmar, adjoining the 
 parishes of Kincardine O'Neil and Cluny. In the vici- 
 nity are a few Druidical remains and Pictish encamp- 
 ments, but none of them are of sufficient importance to 
 require a particular description. 
 
 BANKHEAD, a hamlet, in the parish of Monikie, 
 county of Forfar, 4 miles (W. by N.) from Monikie : 
 containing 56 inhabitants. 
 
 BANKTON-PARK, a village, in' the parish of Ket- 
 tle, district of Cupar, county of Fife, ^ a mile (S.) 
 from Kettle ; containing 136 inhabitants. It is plea- 
 santly situated on the road from Cupar to Leslie, and 
 consists of neat houses of modern erection. 
 
 BANNOCKBURN, for a time a quoad sacra parish, 
 including the village of Bannoekburn, in the parish of 
 St. Ninian's, county of Stirling; containing 31*6 in- 
 habitants, of whom 2206 are in the village, 2 miles (S. S. 
 E.) from Stirling, on the road to Falkirk. Nearly all 
 the inhabitants of the village are employed in manufac- 
 turing tartans, shawls, and carpets. There are very 
 extensive coal-works, producing a material of the best 
 quality, which is sent in large quantities to most of the 
 surrounding districts ; and also a tan-work for pre- 
 paring foreign skins, as well as skins from the country 
 around. A post-office is established under Stirling ; 
 here is a station of the Scottish Central railway, and 
 fairs are held in June and October. The small river 
 Bannock, running directly through the village, gives 
 name to this place, which is celebrated in history as the 
 scene of the decisive battle between Robert Bruce and 
 Edward II., in 1314, when the Scots obtained a signal 
 victory, Edward and the English being completely 
 routed. To the south of the field of Bannoekburn, on 
 the 1 1th of June, 1488, was fought the field of Stirling, 
 or battle of Sauchie, between James III. and the confe- 
 derate lords, wherein that monarch lost his life. A 
 church, containing 900 sittings, was opened in October 
 1838 ; it now belongs to the Free Church, and there 
 is also a place of worship foV the United Presbyterian 
 Synod. — See Ninian's, St. 
 
 BANTON, for a time a quoad sacra parish, forming 
 part of the parish of Kilsyth, in the county of Stir- 
 ling ; extending about five miles in length, and three 
 in breadth, and containing 964 inhabitants, of whom 
 136 are in the village of Banton, 200 in the village of 
 AuchinmuUy, and 65 in the MuUans. These villages
 
 BARN 
 
 B A R R 
 
 are inhabited mostly by colliers and miners, and lie 
 about three miles north-east of Kilsyth. In the year 
 1844, there were in the district twelve ironstone pits 
 and four coal-works, all in working order ; a corn-mill, 
 two flax-mills, a paper-mill, and a sickle-mill ; also a 
 power-loom factory, newly erected to contain sixty-four 
 looms. The church was built in 183*, by subscription, 
 and a grant from the General Assembly's church ex- 
 tension committee ; it is seated for 4'26 persons, and is 
 capable of being enlarged by a gallery to accommodate 
 200 more. This place of worship now belongs to the 
 Free Church. A school, and a dwelling-house for the 
 master, were erected in 1/71, at a cost of about £30, 
 and rebuilt in 1837 on a larger and improved plan, at 
 an expense of about £3'20, which was defrayed by volun- 
 tary contributions. There is a subscription library, 
 opened in 1835, which contains about '200 volumes. 
 
 BARA, county of Haddington. — See Garvald. 
 
 BARACHNIE, a village, in the parish of Old Monk- 
 land, forming part of the late quoad sacra parish of 
 Crossbill, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 
 3^ miles (E.) from Glasgow ; containing 235 inhabitants. 
 This place is situated on the road from Glasgow to Air- 
 drie, a short distance from Bailiestone Toll, and on the 
 borders of Barony parish. In the vicinity are extensive 
 coal-works. 
 
 BARBARAVILLE, a village, in the parish of Kil- 
 MuiR Easter, county of Ross and Cromarty; con- 
 taining 173 inhabitants. 
 
 BARBERSWELLS, a hamlet, in the parish of Ruth- 
 VEN, county of Forfar ; containing 36 inhabitants. It 
 is situated on the borders of Airlie parish, a little to the 
 south of the road between Blairgowrie and Kirriemuir ; 
 and the river Isla flows eastward of the hamlet. 
 
 BARHILL, a small hamlet, in the parish of Col- 
 MONELL, district of Carrick, county of Ayr, 12 miles 
 (S. S. E.) from Girvan. This place, which is of recent 
 origin, is situated on the river Dhuisk, and on the road 
 from Girvan to Newton- Stewart. Cattle-markets are 
 held on the fourth Friday in April, September, and 
 October (O. S.), and are attended by numerous dealers 
 from the adjoining districts. 
 
 BARJARG, a hamlet, in the parish of Keir, county 
 of Dumfries ; containing 58 inhabitants. It lies near 
 the river Nith, on the east side of the parish, about two 
 miles and a half south from the village church, and on 
 the road between Penpont and Dumfries. 
 
 BARLEYSIDE, a village, in the parish of Falkirk, 
 county of Stirling, 3 miles (S. by W.) from Falkirk ; 
 containing 92 inhabitants. It is situated near the west- 
 ern boundary of the parish of Polmont. 
 
 BARNHILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Monifieth, 
 county of Forfar ; containing 41 inhabitants. It lies 
 a little south of the Dundee and Arbroath road. 
 
 BARNHILL, a village, in the parish of Blantyre, 
 Middle ward of the county of Lanark, i a mile (N.) 
 from Blantyre ; containing 165 inhabitants. It is near 
 the eastern boundary of Cambuslang parish. 
 
 BARNWEILL, county of Ayr.— See Craigie. 
 
 BARNYARDS, a village, in the parish of Kilcon- 
 auHAR, district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife ; con- 
 taining 232 inhabitants. It adjoins the village of Kil- 
 conquhar, which lies to the north of Elie, and of which, 
 although it retains a separate name, it may now be said 
 to form a part. 
 
 Vol. I.— 113 
 
 BARONY, county of Lanark. — See Glasgow. 
 
 BARR, a parish, in the district of Carrick, county 
 of Ayr, S miles (E. S. E.) from Girvan ; containing 959 
 inhabitants, of whom about 230 are in the village, it 
 is supposed to have derived its name from the almost 
 inaccessible site of the ancient village, surrounded on all 
 sides by rugged hills of precipitous elevation, and only 
 to be approached by a narrow and wild glen, frequently 
 impassable from the swelling of a small stream which 
 intersects it, and which in winter attains the violence of 
 a torrent. This parish, which formed a natural barrier 
 between the counties of Ayr and Galloway, was in- 
 cluded in the parishes of Girvan and Dailly till the year 
 1653, when it was erected into a parish of itself It 
 comprises nearly 70,000 acres, of which only 1200 are 
 arable, and not above 1000 more capable of being ren- 
 dered profitable. The surface is mostly an extensive 
 level, with various ridges of different elevation, two of 
 which rise from the banks of the river Stinchar to the 
 height of nearly 1200 feet ; while a third, in a direction 
 nearly parallel to these, on the south-east, is about 1400 
 feet above the sea. Another range, forming part of 
 that chain of mountainous heights stretching from Ayr- 
 shire into Galloway, has an elevation of nearly 2/00 
 feet. The chief rivers are, the Stinchar, which has its 
 source in this parish, and taking a south-western course, 
 falls into the sea at Ballautrae ; and the Minnoch, 
 which, rising in the highest ridge of hills, flows south- 
 ward through the lands, and falls into the river Cree, a 
 stream that separates this parish from the county of 
 Galloway. In its course of nearly fifteen miles through 
 the parish, the Stinchar forms a beautiful cascade of 
 about thirty feet ; and most of the smaller burns with 
 which the parish abounds, in their several courses fall 
 from heights, with various degrees of beauty. There 
 are numerous lakes of different extent, varying in depth 
 from six to fifteen feet, all of which afford trout of a 
 dark colour, and also yellow trout. The scenery is 
 dreary, from the want of wood, of which there is scarcely 
 any in the parish. 
 
 In the lower lands the soil is of good quality, and in 
 the high lands principally moss ; the chief crops are 
 grain of all kinds, and potatoes. Surface-draining has 
 been extensively practised, and the grounds are partially 
 inclosed ; but improvement in the system of husbandry 
 is greatly retarded from the want of good roads and 
 facilities of drawing lime. Attention is paid to the 
 management of the dairy, and a moderate number of 
 milch-cows, mostly of the Ayrshire breed, have been 
 introduced ; but the main dependence of the farmer is 
 on the rearing of cattle and sheep, for which tlie hills 
 provide tolerable pasturage. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £7578. The few trees in- 
 digenous to the soil are ash and alder ; and the planta- 
 tions, which are on a very limited scale, are larch, in- 
 terspersed with oak and ash, which seem to thrive well. 
 The substrata are chiefly conglomerate rock, which 
 appears in very irregular masses, and limestone of good 
 quality, which is wrought to a small extent : in that 
 portion of the limestone that lies near the bed of the 
 river, some fine specimens of fossil shells are found. 
 Slate-quarries have been also opened, but they have not 
 been wrought to any extent. The village, which is 
 neatly built, has a post-ollice established under Girvan. 
 Fairs are held annually, but very little business is trans- 
 
 Q
 
 B A R R 
 
 BARK 
 
 acted at them, and from the want of good roads, little 
 facility of intercourse is afforded with the surrounding 
 district. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the 
 Crown; the minister's stipend is £231. 3. l.,withamanse, 
 and a glebe valued at £18 per annum. The church, an 
 ancient edifice, is in good repair, and had a gallery 
 added in 1834 ; it is adapted for a congregation of 410 
 persons. A place of worship has been erected in con- 
 nexion with the Free Church. The parochial school is 
 well conducted ; the master's salary is £34. 4. 4^., with 
 £18 fees, and a house and garden. A parochial library 
 has been established, which has a collection of nearly 
 'iOO volumes. There are some remains of a chapel called 
 Kirk Dominae, and on the rising ground near its site is 
 a well, to which is an approach through an ancient and 
 well-built archway : this chapel was in tolerable preser- 
 vation till the year I6.'i3, when the roof was taken off, 
 and placed on the parish church. Viscount Stair, well 
 known as ambassador of George II., at the court of 
 France, in 1720, was born in the parish. 
 
 BARRA, a parish, in the county of Inverness ; 
 including the islands of Barra, Bernera, Fladda, Fuday, 
 Helesay, Mingala, Pabba, Sandra, and Watersay; and 
 containing 2363 inhabitants, of whom 1977 are in the 
 island of Barra. The word Barra is supposed by some 
 to be formed of Bar, a point or top, and Ay or /, an 
 island, and to have been applied to this place in refer- 
 ence to its position in the great group to which it be- 
 longs, it being the most southern or head of the larger 
 islands among the Hebrides. But its etymology is more 
 generally traced to St. Barr, the tutelary saint to whom 
 the principal place of worship, called Killbar, was dedi- 
 cated, and whose reputation was here so great, that his 
 anniversary has been celebrated for ages, on the 25th of 
 September, and is still regularly observed with morning 
 ceremonies at the chapel, and afternoon festivities at Kill- 
 bar, by the inhabitants, most of whom are Roman Catho- 
 lics. The island of Barra, and the islands surrounding it, 
 have been from time immemorial the property of the 
 Macneils, who are said to have had possession of them 
 before the Danish invasion, and to have been the first of 
 that name who came from Ireland. This family, by 
 their great power, and particularly their skill in mari- 
 time affairs, gave great annoyance to all their neigh- 
 bours, carrying their depredations into every part of the 
 Western Islands ; and one them, called Ruaridh an 
 Tartair, or " the noisy or troublesome Roderick", sig- 
 nalized himself especially by his piracies. He was at 
 length captured for an attack on one of Queen Eliza- 
 beth's ships ; great skill and ingenuity, in consequence 
 of a reward offered, having been employed to effect his 
 apprehension. The seat of the family was Kismull 
 Castle, still in good preservation, situated in the centre 
 of a bay, and on a small rock which is covered at high 
 water. The structure is of irregular figure, about sixty 
 feet high, with a square tower at one corner, the whole 
 strongly built, and surrounded by spots for the anchor- 
 age of small vessels. It was the residence of the lairds 
 of Barra till the beginning of the last century, about 
 which time it ceased to be inhabited. 
 
 The PARISH consists of more than twenty islands, 
 about half of them uninhabited, and serving only as 
 grazing stations. It was disjoined from that of South 
 114 
 
 Uist in 1*33. The parish is situated at the south- 
 western extremity of the Hebrides, and measures in 
 length, from Scirrival, the most northern point of the 
 main island, to Bernera, the most southern island, about 
 twenty-eight miles, including the several intervening 
 channels. The area is about 22,000 acres, of which 
 3922 are under cultivation, 1540 sandy waste, 16,139 
 hill pasture, and the remainder moss. The currents run 
 with great rapidity and violence through the channels, of 
 which that on the north is six miles across, separating 
 Barra from South Uist. On the east are the islands of 
 Canna and Rum, distant twenty-six miles ; those of Coll 
 and Tiree, on the south, are thirty miles off, and on the 
 west is the Atlantic Ocean, which, at the blowing of the 
 south-west wind, rolls its waves with such impetuosity 
 and fury that they not only drive large quantities of 
 sand over the islands, but render intercourse between 
 them quite impossible. 
 
 The shore is indented with numerous fissures and 
 creeks, and pierced with many arms of the sea. Upon 
 the west, with the exception of two or three sandy inlets 
 and bays, it is thickly set with rocks, a huge barrier of 
 which, broken in several parts into frightful chasms by 
 the constant action of the sea, rises majestically against 
 the tremendous waves, and supplies a powerful rampart 
 to check their fury. On the east, the coast is in general 
 rocky, with some intervening portions of heath, moss, 
 and sand ; and in this part are the principal bays, which 
 form excellent and safe harbours, and among which are 
 those of Bayhierava, Uilevay, Castlebay, Watersaybay, 
 Fladda Sound, and Ottirvore. The chief headland is 
 Barra Head, on the island of Bernera, where a very 
 superior lighthouse has lately been erected. This island, 
 and the contiguous one of Mingala, are particularly 
 distinguished for the height of their rocks, and for their 
 grand and romantic scenery, increased in its effect by 
 the numberless sea-fowl that frequent them throughout 
 the summer. Barra, the largest island, is about twelve 
 miles long, from three to six miles broad, and is broken, 
 especially on the eastern side, by many bays and arms 
 of the sea. It has a rocky barren aspect at a distance, 
 but upon a nearer approach its appearance is more in- 
 teresting, and its lower grounds, containing some rich 
 meadows and fertile vallej's, contrast well with its lofty 
 hills, covered to the summits with verdant pasture. 
 There are many springs of good fresh water, and four 
 fresh-water lakes abounding in black trout and eels, and 
 varying in length from half a mile to a mile. 
 
 The SOIL comprises light black, and sandy earth, 
 moss, and meadow ; and the crops, consisting of barley, 
 oats, and potatoes, grown merely for home consumption, 
 ripen very early on the sandy soils, of which there is a 
 considerable extent. Agriculture here takes its prevail- 
 ing character from that of the population ; it is unformed 
 and rugged, and the district is more suited to grazing 
 than tillage. The lands are let principally to small 
 tenants, and the habitations in general are of the very 
 lowest kind, as well as the resources and manner of life 
 of the tenants. The cattle are of a good description, and 
 a new and improved breed of sheep has been recently 
 introduced ; the horses are small, but hardy and well 
 shaped, and are numerous in the parish, being found 
 useful in transporting sea-weed for manure, and for the 
 preparation of kelp. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £2470. The rocks consist chiefly of 
 
 I:
 
 B A R R 
 
 coarse granite ; but in the island of Bernera a quarry 
 has been opened of granite of a very superior kind, 
 of which the lighthouse was built. At Eoligary is the 
 house of Barra, a commodious residence, well sheltered, 
 and surrounded by good fields : it was built by the late 
 proprietor, who transplanted some trees, of which the 
 parish is remarkably bare, to the grounds of his mansion ; 
 but though they had thriven tolerably well in their 
 former situation, they soon pined away after their re- 
 moval. A few of the inhabitants are engaged in fishing, 
 and four vessels used for this purpose belong to the 
 place ; but the poverty of the people operates not only to 
 straiten their agricultural efforts, and to keep the capa- 
 bilities of the soil in a great degree in abeyance, but also 
 to confine their fishing within very narrow limits, 
 although Barra is one of the best stations on the west 
 coast. Besides lobsters, crabs, whelks, limpets, mussels, 
 and cockles, the last of which are very abundant, and 
 often supply a principal article of food, the neigh- 
 bouring seas abound with ling, cod, tusk, hake, turbot, 
 and flounders ; and immense shoals of herrings also 
 come up, which the inhabitants are unable to take for 
 want of suitable tackle. About twenty or thirty boats 
 are sometimes employed, with five men in each ; and if 
 successful, and the weather permits, they carry the ling 
 and cod to Glasgow and Greenock in their own boats. 
 Many cearbans, or sail-fish, were formerly taken by 
 means of the harpoon, and large quantities of oil ex- 
 tracted ; but this branch has now failed, through the in- 
 ability of the fishermen to provide the tackle. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Uist, 
 synod of Glenelg, and in the patronage of the Crown : 
 the minister's stipend is £165. 10. 5., of which a portion 
 is received from the exchequer ; with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £17. 10. per annum. The church is a 
 plain structure, built a few years since, and conveniently 
 situated in the centre of the parish, about six miles from 
 each extremity of the main island. There is a Roman 
 Catholic chapel. The parochial school affords instruc- 
 tion in English and writing, and the master is qualified 
 to teach the classics, book-keeping, and geography ; he 
 has a salary of £'26 : the school has been only lately 
 opened, and education is at present quite in its infancy, 
 the inhabitants being mostly unable to read or write. 
 The poor enjoy the benefit of a bequest cf £400, left by 
 two persons, natives of the parish. At Killbar are se- 
 veral ruins of ancient chapels dedicated to St. Barr, 
 some of which have an altar of rough stones at one 
 end, and the pedestal of a cross at a short distance : a 
 wooden figure of the saint was formerly fixed up for the 
 adoration of the people, and was dressed in superior 
 attire on the celebration of the anniversary. Watch- 
 towers are to be seen in every direction ; and upon the 
 lakes are " duns", supposed to be of Scandinavian origin. 
 There are also many of the circles usually called Druidical. 
 A few years since, a gold medal was found in digging 
 the clergyman's garden, about the size of a half-crown 
 piece, cast for the coronation of Augustus II., King of 
 Poland, and which is said to have belonged to some pas- 
 .senger on board of a Dutch ship wrecked here in the 
 early part of the last century. 
 
 BARREL-OF-BUTTER, an islet, in the parish of 
 
 Orphir, county of Orkney. It is one of the smallest 
 
 of the Orkneys, and is situated to the south of the 
 
 island of Pomona, in Scalpa Flow, a large expanse of 
 
 115 
 
 BARR 
 
 water resembling a small Mediterranean Sea. Here 
 was formerly a seal-fishery, for which the neighbourin.; 
 farmer paid the proprietor a barrel of oil yearly, until 
 the frequency of shipping scared the seals from the isle, 
 when the proprietor, determined not to lose his rent, 
 converted the tack-duty into a barrel of butter, which is 
 still paid by the tenant. Hence the isle derives its pre- 
 sent name, the ancient one being Carlin-Skerry. 
 
 BARRHEAD, for a time a quoad sacra parish, 
 including the villages of Barrhead, Cross- Arthurlee, 
 Grahamstown, and Newton-Ralston, in the parish of 
 Neilston, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 4 
 miles (S. by E.) from Paisley; the whole containing 
 5337 inhabitants. This place is situated on the stream 
 of the Levern, on which are a number of waterfalls that 
 have contributed much to the manufactures of the 
 district, consisting of cotton spinning and weaving, and 
 printing, bleaching, and dyeing, all extensively carried 
 on, principally for the Glasgow and Paisley markets. 
 Coal is abundant in the district, and mines are in opera- 
 tion. The village, situated on the road from Glasgow to 
 Irvine, is of considerable size, and for the most part in- 
 habited by persons engaged in the various works ; it has 
 a post-office with a good delivery, and an act was passed 
 in 1845 for the construction of a railway from Glasgow 
 by Barrhead to Neilston, which is now open from 
 Glasgow to Barrhead. In 1848 an act was passed for a 
 railway from Paisley to Barrhead. A fair is held, chiefly 
 for pleasure, on the last Friday in June, when a horse- 
 race also takes place. The parish was in the presbytery 
 of Paisley and synod of Glasgow and Ayr : the church, 
 a neat structure, was built by subscription, in 1S39; 
 and the minister was elected by the male communicants. 
 There is a good school, of which the teacher has a room 
 rent-free ; also a mechanics' subscription library. 
 
 BARRY, or BARRIE, a parish, in the county of 
 Forfar, including the former quoad sacra district of 
 Carnoustie, and containing 2124 inhabitants, of whom 
 21* are in the village of Barry, 9 miles (E. N. E.) 
 from Dundee, and 126S in the village of Carnoustie. 
 This parish is situated at the southern extremity of the 
 county, on the shore of the German Ocean, and at the 
 mouth of the Firth of Tay ; measuring about four miles 
 from north to south, and three and a half from east to 
 west. In the latter direction it is intersected, through- 
 out its whole extent, by a high verdant bank, supposed 
 to have once formed a steep shore of the ocean, and 
 separating the locality into two grand divisions totallj' 
 dissimilar in character. That on the north is of a good 
 soil, and elevated about fifty feet above the southern 
 portion, from which it has the appearance of an extensive 
 and regularly constriicted terrace. The lower division is 
 sandy and sterile, affording in general but a scanty pas- 
 ture for a few sheep and cattle, with small patches of 
 arable land, producing, in moist seasons, moderate crops 
 of grain. The vi'hole comprises about 4000 acres, half 
 being in the sandy, and half in the cultivated, portion. 
 In the upper part the soil has the several varieties of 
 light loam, good gravel, and a deep black earth ; and 
 under the skilful application of the most approved usages 
 of husbandry, crops are obtained of wheat, barley, oats, 
 peas, turnips, flax, clover, and potatoes, nearly equal to 
 those grown in more favoured districts. Of the part 
 never yet cultivated, covering nearly 2000 acres, very 
 little is serviceable on account of the light and sandy 
 
 Q2
 
 B A R V 
 
 BASS 
 
 nature of the soil, except for occasional pastures. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £4052. 
 The larger part of the population, both male and female, 
 are engaged in the manufacture of brown and white 
 linen, for the Dundee and Arbroath houses. A vitriol- 
 work, employing four or five hands, was erected a few 
 years since ; and there are five stations for the fishing 
 of salmon, belonging to three different proprietors. The 
 turnpike-road and the railroad between Dundee and 
 Arbroath pass through the parish ; and to these two 
 towns the produce is usually sent for sale. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally the parish is in the presbytery of Arbroath, synod 
 of Angus and Mearns, and in the patronage of the 
 Crown; the minister's stipend is £143. 12. 11., with a 
 manse, and a glebe of five acres, valued at £5. 10. per 
 annum. The church, situated in the centre of the 
 parish, is a plain structure, altered and enlarged in the 
 year 181 S. A place of worship and a schoolroom have 
 been erected in connexion with the Free Church. The 
 parochial school affords instruction in the usual branches; 
 the master has a salary of £'29. IS. 9., with £30 fees. 
 Till lately there were several tumuli on the eastern hmit 
 of the parish ; and in the same vicinity, near Car- 
 noustie, were the vestiges of a camp, where, it is said, 
 the Danes under Camus were defeated by the Scots 
 headed by INIalcolm II. 
 
 BARVAS, a parish, in the island of Lewis, county 
 of Ross and Cromarty, 10 miles (N. W. by N.) from 
 Stornoway ; containing, with the former quoad sacra 
 district of Cross, 38.50 inhabitants. The name of this 
 place, like many other names in the neighbourhood, is 
 supposed to be of Norwegian derivation ; but its signifi- 
 cation is altogether unknown. From the memorialswhich 
 still remain, the Danes appear to have had some con- 
 nexion with the district. A fort, now in ruins, evidently 
 of Danish construction, stands on the border of a loch 
 south of Bragar, and three buildings of the same de- 
 scription are to be seen between Shadir and Borve, each 
 of them, by its peculiar form, locality, and appendages, 
 indicating the scene of the military operations of that 
 people. On a plain of moss between Barvas and Shadir 
 stands an immense stone, eighteen feet high, and 
 almost as much in girth, supposed to have been raised 
 as a triumphal memorial of the slaughter of some cruel 
 and reckless tyrant of the Danish nation. The ruins of 
 several old chapels and burying-grounds also remain in 
 the parish, shewing the subsequent occupation of the 
 soil by religious teachers. The chapels were dedicated 
 to St. Bridget in Borve, St. Peter in Lower Shadir, St. 
 Mary in Barvas, and St. John in Bragar. 
 
 The PARISH, which is remotely situated, in the 
 northern extremity of the island of Lewis, is about 
 twenty-two miles long and seven broad, containing 
 16,103 acres, of which number 1468 are in tillage, 4S9 
 the best kind of pasture, and 14,146 pasture of an inferior 
 kind. It is bounded on the north-west by the Atlantic 
 Ocean. The coast, which comprises a length of about 
 fourteen miles, is rugged, in many parts bold and rocky, 
 and is beaten by a violent surf when the wind blows 
 from the west or north-west. The surface of the inte- 
 rior is diversified by gentle elevations, except in one or 
 two instances, where it is broken by a deep glen tra- 
 versed by rivulets, or occupied by a sweeping moor the 
 resort of red mountain deer. There are five rivers, the 
 Glen, the Borve, the Shadir, the Arnal, and the Torra, 
 116 
 
 which ri.se from springs or lochs, generally six or seven 
 miles np the country, and empty themselves into the 
 ocean. The climate is surcharged with vapour and fog, 
 and subject to violent storm? and rains ; the striking 
 phenomenon of the Aurora Borealis is frequently seen, 
 in all its splendour and majesty. 
 
 The soil of the cultivated land, which chiefly lies 
 along the sea-shore, is black earth, often largely mixed 
 with gravel or sand ; but as the main part of the parish 
 is moor, the soil is mostly mossy. The arable portion 
 is overspread with quantities of stones, and the exposure 
 of the land to winds from the sea, without hill or moun- 
 tain to protect behind, presents a formidable impediment 
 to the labour of the farmer, and sometimes destroys his 
 crops altogether. The rental is small. No produce is ex- 
 ported, the whole being required for home consumption ; 
 and but few improvements have been made in agri- 
 culture, the backwardness arising chiefly from the short- 
 ness of the leases, and the poverty of the people, who in 
 seasons of scarcity are compelled to live upon whelks, 
 periwinkles, limpets, and crabs, the only shell-fish to be 
 found. About 2500 head of black-cattle are reared, 
 which are fed in winter chiefly on sea-weed. The sheep 
 amount to upwards of 7000, and are all of small stature, 
 as also are the horses, which, however, are compact, 
 active, and mettlesome, and well suited to their ordinary 
 work of carrying the sea-weed in double-baskets, over 
 difficult and rocky grounds. The subsoil is a stiff hard 
 clay, which in some parts is covered with large banks of 
 sand, twenty feet high, driven inward from the shore by 
 the continued action of westerly winds. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £1942. 
 
 The inhabitants live in numerous villages on the 
 coast, almost entirely in an isolated state, having very 
 little communication with others. There are two roads, 
 one running along the coast, and another to Stornoway, 
 the only mart in the island. The parish contains four 
 small bays, into which boats sometimes enter ; but the 
 violence of the wind prevents the anchorage of any 
 vessel. Salmon-fishing has been carried on for some 
 years, with considerable success, near the mouths of the 
 rivers ; but the nature of the coast rendering other fish- 
 ing impracticable, the people are generally little inclined 
 to malie the employment a steady pursuit. For eccle- 
 siastical purposes the parish is withiu the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Lewis, synod of Glenelg, and in the 
 patronage of the Crown : the minister has a stipend of 
 £158. 6. 8., partly paid from the exchequer; with a 
 manse, and a glebe worth about £20 per annum. The 
 church, built about sixty years since, is a long narrow 
 building, and contains 300 sittings. There is a parochial 
 school, in which the classics and the common branches 
 of education are taught ; the master has a salary of £28. 
 Two other schools are supported by the Edinburgh Gaelic 
 School Society. The parish contains several chalybeate 
 springs, but none of them of any note. 
 
 BASS, ISLE, in the parish of North Berwick, 
 county of H.ADDINGTON. It is situated in the mouth 
 of the Firth of Forth, about a mile and a half from the 
 shore ; the circumference of the rocky isle is full a mile, 
 and its height above the surface of the sea 420 feet. 
 On the north it is lofty and precipitous ; on the south 
 somewhat conical, sloping moderately down to the base: 
 it is only accessible on the south-east. Pasture is 
 afforded for about thirty sheep, and the rock is the
 
 BATH 
 
 B A T H 
 
 resort of myriads of sea-fowl. Its history is of consider- 
 able interest : it was purchased by government in October 
 1671, and converted into a state prison for the Cove- 
 nanters, a purpose which it served during the reigns of 
 Charles II. and James II. After the Revolution, it held 
 out for several years against the new dynasty, amidst 
 numerous and vigorous enterjjriscs for its reduction, 
 and was signalized as the last place in Great Britain 
 that yielded to the rule of William and Mary. In I701 
 the king ordered the fortifications to be demolished, 
 and in I706 the Bass was granted by the crown to 
 President Sir Hew Dalrymple for one Scots penny, 
 reserving the power of re-fortifying the rock, should 
 government at any time deem it expedient to do so. 
 The fort and the dungeons are all unroofed, and the 
 chief interest of the isle arises from its historical associa- 
 tions, these crumbling ruins speaking of seventeen years' 
 solitude and suffering, endured by above fifty of Scot- 
 land's sons, who, some for a longer and some for a 
 shorter part of that period, here endured a painful impri- 
 sonment and e.xile for their zeal as Covenanters. — See 
 North Berwick. 
 
 BATHAN'S (ST.), ABBEY, a parish, in the county 
 of Berwick, 7 miles (N. by W.) from Dunse ; contain- 
 ing 146 inhabitants. The appellation of this place has 
 been successively written St. Boythan's, Bothan's, and 
 Bathan's, which last form it has preserved since the 
 earlier part of the eighteenth century : the name was 
 derived from the patron saint, Baithen, who laboured 
 here in the former part of the seventh century, and to 
 whom the first church was dedicated. The word Abbey, 
 it is siipposed, was prefixed to distinguish the parish 
 from the parish of Gifford or Yester, in East Lothian, 
 which was also called St. Bothan's, but had no convent. 
 Near the church, which was destroyed more than once 
 by fire during the incursions of the Danes, a convent of 
 Cistercian nuns was founded between the years 1184 
 and 1'200, with the title of priory, by Ada, daughter to 
 King William the Lion, and wife to Patrick, Earl of 
 Dunbar. This institution, by the liberal benefactions 
 of the foundress and her husband, and various other 
 persons, acquired considerable estates, in addition to 
 the patronage of the church, by which the nuns were 
 enabled, through the appointment of a vicar, to appro- 
 priate to themselves the revenues of the living. A 
 chapel was also founded in the parish, about a quarter 
 of a mile from the nunnery, on the same side of the 
 river Whitadder ; the foundations of which lately existed. 
 At Strafontane, which is now part of the parish, but 
 was anciently distinct, an hospital was founded in the 
 reign of David I., which at one time was dependent on 
 the abbey of Alnwick, but was transferred in 1437 by 
 the abbot of that place to the monastery of Dryburgh. 
 It came afterwards into the possession of the collegiate 
 church of Dunglass, and was ultimately converted into 
 a church. 
 
 The mean length of the parish, from east to west, is 
 about three miles and a quarter, and its breadth two 
 miles and a half. It contains about .5000 acres, of which 
 '2600 are hilly pasture never cultivated, 100 wood, and 
 2300 arable. The parish is situated among the Lam- 
 merinoor hills, and the surface consequently consists of 
 hills and slopes, the former of which are for the most 
 part covered with heath ; the hills rise to various eleva- 
 tions, of between 300 and 400 feet above the intervening 
 117 
 
 vales, and then spread out into extensive flats. The level 
 grounds on the banks of the streams whi<h receive the 
 drainage of the hills, are in general fertile, as well as 
 many of the slopes, but the upper lands are altogether 
 barren. The Whitadder is the only river : after a course 
 of about twelve miles, in which it is joined by the Dye 
 and many smaller streams, it assumes, in its passage 
 through the parish, a beautifully meandering form, and 
 receives, besides many rivulets, the tributary waters of 
 the Monynut and the Ware, which extend its width to 
 about eighty feet. A bridge of wood upon stone piers, 
 on the tension-bar principle, has been erected across the 
 river, and is much admired for its simplicity of con- 
 strnction and elegance of form. The soil of the parish 
 is equal, if not superior, to any part of the Lammermoor 
 range, which is throughout of meagre quality, and much 
 better suited to the pasturage of sheep and cattle than 
 the growth of corn. The agricultural produce princi- 
 pally comprises oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips : the 
 sheep are the Cheviots, mixed with a few of the black- 
 faced, and the ewes of each of these are in many cases 
 crossed with the Leicesters. Considerable improve- 
 ments have been made in husbandry, consisting chiefly 
 in drainage, and the reclaiming of waste land. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £1397. 
 Veins of copper-ore have been discovered on the estate 
 of St. Bathan's, and the mineral was worked in 1S28 by 
 an English mining company, but after the first attempt 
 the undertaking was abandoned. There is no village ; 
 but a group of pleasing and interesting objects in the 
 romantic vale through which the Whitadder runs, in- 
 cludes the house of St. Bathan's, a corn-mill, the church, 
 the manse standing on an acclivity in the midst of trees, 
 and the school-house. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes, the parish of Abbey St. 
 Bathan's is within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Dunse, synod of Merse and Teviotdale. The patronage 
 belongs to the Crown ; and the minister's stipend is 
 £158. 6. 8., with a manse, built in 1822, and a glebe of 
 fourteen acres, worth £13 per annum. The church, 
 which is conveniently situated, is an ancient edifice in 
 good repair, and accommodates 140 persons. The east 
 window, part of the ancient building, is still in some 
 measure preserved ; and when lately repairing the north 
 wall of the edifice, a recumbent statue of a nun was 
 found, but without any inscription : in this wall was 
 formerly an arched door, now built up, which commu- 
 nicated with the monastic buildings. There is a paro- 
 chial school, in which the usual branches of education 
 are taught, with mathematics and Latin ; the master 
 has a salary of £26. 8., with about £12 fees, and a 
 house. In a woody nook at a little distance from the 
 church is a spring named St. Bathan's well, formerly 
 esteemed of miraculous power in healing diseases, and 
 to which the superstitious still attach many surprising 
 virtues. 
 
 BATHGATE, an independent burgh of barony, and 
 a parish, in the county of Linlithgow, 7 miles (.S. by 
 W.) from Linlithgow, and 18 (\V. by S.) from Edinburgh; 
 containing, with the village of Armadale, 3928 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 2809 are in the town. This place, the 
 name of which, in a charter of Malcolm IV. written 
 Batliet, is of unknown derivation, formed part of the 
 extensive possessions given by King Robert Bruce, in 
 1316, with his daughter the Princess Marjory, on her
 
 BATH 
 
 BATH 
 
 i 
 
 marriage to Walter, high steward of Scotland, ancestor 
 of the royal family of Stuart, who had one of his prin- 
 cipal residences at this place, where he died in 1328. 
 Of this ancient castle, some slight traces of the founda- 
 tions only are discernible, in a morass about a quarter 
 of a mile from the town, in which, though the land has 
 been drained and brought into cultivation, kitchen 
 utensils of brass, and coffins rudely formed of flat 
 stones, have been discovered by the plough. The 
 barony, with the sheriffdom of Bathgate, which had 
 been annexed to it, was granted by Charles II. in 1663 
 to Thomas Hamilton, and subsequently became the pro- 
 perty of the Hope family, of whom John, the second 
 Earl of Hopetoun, on the abolition of hereditary juris- 
 dictions in 1747. claimed £2000 as an indemnity. There 
 are few events of importance connected with the history 
 of Bathgate, with the exception of some occasional 
 encounters which took place during the time of the 
 Covenanters, between the inhabitants and the soldiery 
 who were sent to disperse their meetings. 
 
 The TOWN is chiefly situated on the acclivity of a hill, 
 on the north side of the middle road from Glasgow to 
 Edinburgh, and consists of several well-formed streets 
 of neatly-built houses, from which others, of inferior 
 character, branch oif in various directions. The prin- 
 cipal streets are paved, and well lighted with gas from 
 works erected by a company ; and the inhabitants are 
 amply supplied with water. A subscription library has 
 been estabhshed, which has a collection of about 300 
 volumes, and is well supported. The post-office has two 
 deliveries from Glasgow, and one from Edinburgh, 
 daily ; and branches of the National Bank of Scotland 
 and the Glasgow Union Bank, have been opened in the 
 town. The cotton manufacture is carried on to a con- 
 siderable extent, affording employment to about 500 of 
 the inhabitants, in hand-loom weaving, chiefly for the 
 Glasgow houses; and about 160 women and girls are 
 engaged in tambour-work. A distillery and a brewery, 
 both on an extensive scale, are in active operation ; and 
 there are two brick and tile works, where several hands 
 are employed. The market, which is abundantly sup- 
 plied with grain, and numerously attended, is on Wed- 
 nesday. Fairs for cattle and horses are held on the 
 third Wednesday in April, the first Wednesday after 
 Whitsuntide (O. S.), the fourth Wednesday in June, 
 the third Wednesday in August, the fourth Wednesday 
 in October, and the first Wednesday after Martinmas 
 (O. S.). Of these the principal are the Whitsuntide 
 and Martinmas fairs, which are attended by dealers 
 from all parts of the country. Facility of communica- 
 tion is afforded by the Edinburgh and Glasgow, and the 
 Lanark and Borrowstounness, turnpike-roads, which 
 pass through the parish, and by other roads kept in 
 good repair by statute labour. But the chief means of 
 intercourse are those presented by the railway, lately 
 opened, from Bathgate to the Edinburgh and Glasgow 
 line near the Ratho station. 
 
 In 1824 the inhabitants, with the concurrence of the 
 superior of the town, obtained an act of parliament con- 
 ferring a charter of incorporation, and vesting the 
 government of the town as an independent burgh of 
 barony in a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and 
 twelve councillors, annually elected by the burgesses, 
 who must be holders of houses or tenements valued at 
 £3 per annum, and are entitled to become burgesses on 
 118 
 
 the payment of fees not exceeding £2. 2. Originally 
 the town was a burgh of barony, a baron-bailie being 
 appointed by the proprietor of the estate. The jurisdic- 
 tion of the magistrates, which is confined to the limits 
 of the burgh, extends to civil pleas not exceeding £25, 
 and to the trial of petty offences, for which they hold 
 courts as occasion may require ; but the number of 
 causes is very inconsiderable. A sheriffs small-debt 
 circuit court is held four times in the year, under the 
 sheriff of the county, who is also appointed sheriff of 
 Bathgate. There is a small prison, containing three 
 cells for criminals, and a room for debtors, under the 
 management of the corporation ; but it is rarely used. 
 The seal of the burgh simply bears the inscription, 
 " Sigillum Commune Burgi de Bathgate" , in an outer 
 circle ; and, within, the words, " erected by act of par- 
 liament 5th George IV. 1824", with a crown. 
 
 The PARISH is about seven miles and a half in length, 
 and about four miles in extreme breadth, comprising an 
 area of 11,214 acres, of which 8700 are arable, SOO pas- 
 ture, 500 woodland and plantations, and the remainder, 
 excepting the site of the town of Bathgate and the vil- 
 lage of Armadale, roads and waste. Its surface, though 
 generally level, is diversified by the hills of the Knock 
 and the Reiving Craig, which nearly equal the Cairn- 
 apple in height, attaining an elevation of about 1450 
 feet above the sea. The only river is the Almond, 
 which separates it for about a mile from the parish of 
 Whitburn. There are numerous springs, and, in the 
 grounds of Balbardie, a lake partly artificial, about 
 eleven acres in extent, and averaging five feet in depth. 
 The soil, on the slopes of the hills, is rich ; in the lower 
 grounds it is wet and marshy, though it has been 
 greatly benefited by draining : the lands which are not 
 under tillage, afford good pasturage for cattle. The 
 system of agriculture is in an improved state, and a 
 considerable portion of waste has been reclaimed ; the 
 crops are grain of every sort, with potatoes and turnips, 
 and much attention is paid to the management of the 
 dairy-farms. Few sheep are pastured, and the cattle 
 are of various mixed breeds, but, on the dair}'-farms, 
 mostly of the pure Ayrshire kind. The farm buildings 
 are inferior to others in the district ; but improvements 
 are gradually taking place under the auspices of an 
 agricultural society in the town, which awards premiums 
 at its annual meetings, when there is a show of cattle. 
 A horticultural society has also been established. The 
 plantations consist of oak, ash, elm, and plane, with 
 larch, silver, spruce, and Scotch firs. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £12,975. 
 
 The substratum is principally coal, forming part of 
 the central coal-field of Scotland, and of which several 
 mines are worked : the seams are frequently intersected 
 with dykes of whinstone. Limestone is also found, 
 both of the marine and lacustrine formation ; in the 
 former are various species of corrallines, ammonites, 
 and marine shells, and in both are veins of lead con- 
 taining portions of silver-ore. In one of the quarries, 
 called the silver mine, the ore was wrought for some 
 time, yielding a considerable quantity of silver, which 
 gradually diminished till the working was ultimately 
 discontinued. There are several limestone-quarries and 
 lime- works, producing lime of good quality. In con- 
 nexion with the strata of coal is found iron-ore, which 
 was formerly wrought by the Carron Iron Company,
 
 BEAT 
 
 B ED R 
 
 and for the working of which, in another part of the 
 parish, a company recently formed are carrying on 
 operations. Thin layers of mineral pitch are occasion- 
 ally found in the limestone. Freestone and whinstone 
 are likewise abundant ; one of the quarries of the former 
 is constantly wrought, on the lands of Balbardie, pro- 
 ducing stone of excellent quality for building, and the 
 latter is wrought chiefly for the roads. Balbardie 
 House is a handsome mansion, erected towards the 
 close of the last century, after a design by Mr. Adam, 
 and beautifully situated in a well-wooded park of more 
 than 100 acres, containing much diversified scenery; 
 and Boghead, another residence, is surrounded with 
 thriving plantations, formed by the present proprietor. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Linlithgow, synod of 
 Lothian and Tweeddale : the minister's stipend is £132. 
 8. 4., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £19 per 
 annum ; patron, the Earl of Hopetoun. The church, 
 erected in 1739, is a plain building, situated in the town, 
 and nearly in the centre of the parish ; it is in good 
 repair, and contains 719 sittings. There are places of 
 worship for the Free Church, the United Presbyterian 
 Synod, and United Original Seceders. The parochial 
 school is well attended ; the master has a salary of 
 £34. 4. 4|., with a house and garden, and the fees 
 average £26 per annum. The Bathgate Academy was 
 founded by Mr. John Newlands, a native of this parish, 
 who died in Jamaica in 1799, and bequeathed the prin- 
 cipal part of his property to trustees, for the erection 
 and endowment of a free school here. The trustees, 
 after resisting an attempt to invalidate the bequest, in 
 which they were indemnified by the personal security of 
 Mr. Majoribanks, received £14,500, and immediately 
 opened schools in different parts of the parish, which, 
 on the subsequent increase of the funds, were concen- 
 trated in 1833 in the present institution. It is under 
 the superintendence of a rector, who is also the classical 
 master, two English masters, and a master for writing, 
 arithmetic, and the mathematics ; and is attended by 
 about .500 children, who are all gratuitously taught. 
 The building is handsome ; it consists of a centre and 
 two wings connected bj' a colonnade, and comprises a 
 house for the rector, with four ample class-rooms, a 
 library, in which are more than 700 volumes, and other 
 apartments, with a spacious play-ground in front. The 
 poor are partly supported by the interest of £1100 be- 
 queathed by Mr. Henry Calder, yielding £53 per annum. 
 There are some Druidical remains in the vicinity ; and 
 in different parts of the parish have been found coins of 
 Edward L, Queen Elizabeth, and Charles IL Several 
 of the springs are strongly chalybeate ; and on the 
 estate of Couston, the water resembles in its quality that 
 of the celebrated spring of Dollar. 
 
 BAYNTON, county of Fife.— See Baneton. 
 
 BEATH, a parish, in the district of Dunfermline, 
 county of Fife, 'ii miles (S.) from Blair- Adam Inn; 
 containing, vvith the villages of Cowden-Bcath, Kelty, 
 and Oakfield, 973 inhabitants. This parish, though 
 now destitute of any trees of the kind, is supposed to 
 have originally abounded with birch, and from that cir- 
 cumstance to have derived its name, anciently written 
 Bailh, which in the Gaelic language signifies a birch- 
 tree. It is situated on the great road from Perth to 
 Queensferry, extending about four miles in length and 
 119 
 
 three miles in breadth, and comprising 6500 acres, 
 of which about 5300 are arable, 500 meadow and pas- 
 ture, 500 woodland and plantations, and the remainder 
 water and waste. The surface is very irregular, rising 
 in many places into hills of considerable elevation, some 
 of which afford rich pasture, and one called the Hill of 
 Beath commands interesting views. The scenery has 
 been in some parts enriched with thriving plantations, 
 and is enlivened by the Loch Fitty, a fine sheet of water 
 about three miles in circumference, and abounding with 
 pike, perch, and other fish. In general the soil is good, 
 consisting of a clay and loam, interspersed occasionally 
 with moss ; the crops are oats, barley, peas, beans, 
 potatoes, and turnips, with wheat occasionally, and a 
 small quantity of flax. The system of agriculture is 
 greatly improved ; a considerable quantity of waste has 
 been reclaimed, and much land which from previous 
 mismanagement was unproductive has been rendered 
 fertile. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £4404. Among the substrata are whinstone and 
 sandstone : coal is found in abundance, and three col- 
 lieries are worked in the parish, which afford a plentiful 
 supply of fuel : limestone is also wrought, but on a very 
 limited scale. Facility of communication is presented 
 by the Dunfermline branch of the Edinburgh, Perth, 
 and Dundee railway. Ecclesiastically the parish is in 
 the presbytery of Dunfermline, synod of Fife, and in the 
 patronage of the Earl of Moray ; the minister's stipend 
 is about £165, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £17 
 per annum. The church is a handsome edifice, erected 
 in 1835, and affords ample accommodation. The paro- 
 chial school is attended by about 100 pupils; the mas- 
 ter has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with £30 fees, and a house 
 and garden. 
 
 BEAULY, a village, in the parish of Kilmorack, 
 county of Inverness, IS miles (W.) from Inverness; 
 containing 560 inhabitants. It is situated at the mouth 
 of the river of the same name ; and was distinguished 
 for a priory founded in 1230, which at the Dissolution 
 came into the possession of Hugh, Lord Frazer, of 
 Lovat, in whose family it continued until 1745, when it 
 was forfeited to the crown : a portion of the walls is 
 still standing. The village is a considerable thorough- 
 fare to and from all the more northern Highland coun- 
 ties ; and the Beauly is navigable for small vessels for 
 about three miles above it. The river is formed by the 
 union, near Erchless Castle, of the Farrer, Canich, and 
 Glass streams ; it takes an eastern course, aud after 
 forming the falls of Kilmorack and other cascades, 
 merges in an arm of the sea connected with the Moray 
 Firth. — See Kilmorack. 
 
 BEDRULE, a parish, in the district of Jedburgh, 
 county of Roxburgh, 3 miles (S. W.) from Jedburgh ; 
 containing, with the villages of Bedrule, Newtown, and 
 Rewcastle, 256 inhabitants, of whom 1 1 1 are in the 
 village of Bedrule. This place derives its name from its 
 situation on the small but rapid and impetuous river 
 Rule, whose waters, impeded in their progress by frag- 
 ments of loosened rock, pursue their course with tumul- 
 tuous noise. It lays claim to considerable antiquity, and 
 formed part of the possessions of the Turnbull family, 
 one of whose descendants was keeper of the privy seal 
 in 1441, an<l subsequently Bishop of Glasgow : he pro- 
 cured a bull from Pope Nicholas V. for erecting a col- 
 lege for literature within the city of Glasgow, in 1452 or
 
 B ED R 
 
 BEIT 
 
 1453. The parish, which is nearly in the centre of the 
 county, is of eUiptic form, and comprises about 1600 
 acres of arable land, an equal quantity in pasture, about 
 forty acres of woodland and plantations, and a con- 
 siderable portion of waste. The surface is diversified 
 with hills and dales : of the former, the hill of Dunian, 
 in the south-east, is the highest, rising in a circular 
 form to an elevation of 1031 feet above the sea j it is 
 flat on the summit, and forms a conspicuous mark for 
 mariners. The scenery is generally picturesque, and in 
 some parts enriched with stately wood. The chief rivers 
 are, the Rule, which winds between wooded banks dis- 
 playing much beauty ; and the Teviot, which skirts the 
 parish for a considerable distance, and receives the waters 
 of the Rule at no great distance from the village. 
 
 The soil is extremely various, though generally fertile : 
 near the rivers it is a rich sandy loam, resting on a bed 
 of gravel, and in some parts intermixed with clay ; in 
 other places, of a thinner and less productive quality, 
 on a subsoil of retentive clay. The principal crops are 
 oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips ; the system 
 of agriculture is improved, and lime and bone-dust are 
 unsparingly used for the benefit of the land. Great 
 attention is paid to the rearing of live stock, for which 
 the pastures are well adapted : the sheep are of the 
 Cheviot breed, with a few scores of the Leicestershire, 
 and a few Merinos ; the cattle, of which only a mode- 
 rate number are fed for the butcher, are all of the short- 
 horned breed. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £'2/47. The woods consist chiefly of 
 birch, alder, common and mountain ash, hazel, cherry, 
 and oak ; and the plantations, of firs of all kinds, which 
 thrive well. In general the substrata are greywacke, 
 of which the hills mainly consist, and sandstone of a 
 reddish hue ; the sandstone is of excellent quality, and 
 is extensively quarried for building and for ornamental 
 uses. There are some indications of coal, but no ade- 
 quate attempts have been made to obtain it : limestone 
 is also found, at Bedrule hill, and a quarry was formerly 
 open there, but the working of it has been discontinued. 
 Knowsouth House, in the parish, is a very elegant 
 mansion in the Elizabethan style of architecture, situated 
 in a highly picturesque and richly-wooded demesne, laid 
 out with great taste. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is in the pres- 
 bytery of Jedburgh, sj'nod of Merse and Teviotdale : 
 the minister's stipend is £150, with a manse and globe ; 
 patrons, the Hume family. The church, erected about 
 1S05, is a substantial edifice, situated on the summit of 
 a steep bank, and adapted for 140 persons. The paro- 
 chial school is well attended ; the master's salary is £'26, 
 with from £15 to £20 fees, and a house and garden. 
 There are some slight remains of the castle of Bedrule, 
 the baronial seat of the Turnbulls, consisting chiefly of 
 the foundations of the ancient buildings, on the right 
 bank of the Rule ; and on the opposite side of the 
 river are vestiges of out-works formerly connected with 
 that stronghold : the site commands an extensive pros- 
 pect. Remains also exist of an old fort at Fulton, one 
 of the numerous strongholds erected during the times 
 of border warfare. On the farm of Newton, near the 
 road from Jedburgh to Hawick, is the site of an en- 
 campment, surrounded on all sides but one by a fosse 
 of running water ; it is situated on a sloping piece of 
 ground in Newton moor, and is about 600 feet in cir- 
 120 
 
 cumference : the work is supposed to have been an out- 
 station connected with a Roman camp at Stirk-rigg, 
 about a mile distant, but of which every trace has been 
 obliterated by the plough. Not far from this station 
 is a well called Our Lady's Well, which runs into a 
 neighbouring pond, said to have been constructedby 
 the monks of Jedburgh for a fish-pond. 
 
 BEIL-GRANGE, a hamlet, in the parish of Sten- 
 TON, county of Haddington, 1 mile (S. S. W.) from 
 Stenton ; containing 53 inhabitants. It is near the bor- 
 ders of the parish of Dunbar, and is remarkable for a 
 splendid mansion in its vicinity. The Beil rivulet passes 
 on the north of the hamlet, and, flowing by Belton and 
 Westbarns, falls into the ocean. — See Stenton. 
 
 BEITH, a parish, chiefly in the district of Cunning- 
 HAME, county of Ayr, and partly in the Upper ward 
 of the county of Renfrew, IS miles (W. S. W.) from 
 Glasgow ; including the villages of Gateside, Northbar, 
 and Burnhouse, and containing 5*95 inhabitants. This 
 place is supposed to have taken its name from a Celtic 
 term signifying " birch ", and many parts of the district 
 are referred to, as still bearing names formed partly 
 ■with the word icood, such as Roughwood, Woodside, 
 Threepwood, and others. In ancient times the locality 
 consisted of the two great divisions called the barony of 
 Beith, and the lordship of Giffen, the latter being the 
 more extensive, and the two districts being divided from 
 each other by the Powgree, a stream that falls into the 
 Garnock near the south end of Kilbirnie loch. The 
 barony was given in the twelfth century to Kilwinning 
 Abbey by Richard de Moreville, the son and successor 
 of Hugh de Moreville, constable of Scotland, and lord of 
 Cunninghame; and his wife Avicia de Lancaster gave 
 the lands of Beith, Bath, and Threepwood, also to the 
 abbey. This religious establishment erected a chapel 
 here, afterwards the church of Beith, the monks enjoy- 
 ing the tithes and revenues, and finding a curate to do 
 the duty. About the period of the Reformation, the 
 abbot and chapter feued out the lands in the barony 
 for small feu-duties, which, with the other temporalities 
 of the church, passed to Hugh, fifth Earl of Eglinton, 
 who was created lord of erection of the monastery. The 
 lordship of Giffen was given by the family of Moreville 
 to Walter de Mulcaster, the donation comprehending 
 the whole of the lands to the south and west of the Pow- 
 gree : the ruins of a chapel founded by the monastery 
 of Kilwinning, and dedicated to St. Bridget, are still to 
 be seen on a part of this property. 
 
 Beith, at the beginning of the last century, was only 
 a small village, consisting of a few houses in the vicinity 
 of the church ; but has since grown into a thriving 
 manufacturing town, with a large and industrious popu- 
 lation. It is situated on an eminence, in the midst of a 
 district abounding with beautiful scenery. The town is 
 well lighted with gas, supplied by a company established 
 in 1831, with a capital of £1600. It contains a sub- 
 scription library of 400 volumes, and two circulating 
 hbraries. The population comprises several merchants 
 who deal very extensively in grain, and persons engaged 
 in various kinds of traffic, but is to a great extent com- 
 posed of hand-loom weavers ; and about 200 persons 
 resident in the parish are regularly engaged in the manu- 
 facture of flax thread. A mill for spinning flax, lately 
 erected at North-bar, two miles from the town, affords 
 employment to eighty hands ; the proprietor has built 
 
 I
 
 BEIT 
 
 BEIT 
 
 several houses, and has commenced feus, so that a con- 
 siderable village maybe expected shortly to arise on this 
 spot. At Roughbank is an establishment of the same 
 description, on a smaller scale, and also a mill for 
 making potato-flour, occupying about fourteen persons ; 
 while at Knows an establishment has been formed con- 
 taining forty steam-looms, furnishing employment to 
 thirty persons. There are two bleachfields at Threep- 
 wood, in the north-eastern part of the parish ; and the 
 tanning and currying of leather are pursued to a con- 
 siderable extent in the town. The enterprising spirit of 
 the inhabitants has left untouched scarcely any article 
 of profitable speculation. Beith is a post-town, and there 
 are two arrivals and departures daily ; also a daily des- 
 patch of letters to the neighbouring towns of Dairy, 
 Kilbirnie, and Lochwinnoch. The great line of road 
 from Glasgow to Portpatrick passes through the town, 
 and the Glasgow and Ayrshire railway has a station 
 about a mile distant from the place. 
 
 The marketable produce is usually sent for sale to 
 Glasgow and Paisley ; a weekly market, however, of 
 ancient date, is held on Friday, and there are likewise 
 annual fairs, chiefly for horses, on the first Friday in the 
 months of January, February, May, and November 
 (O. S.). A festival vulgarly called Tenant's day, attended 
 by a great concourse of people, and celebrated for its 
 show of horses, is held yearly on the ISth of August 
 (O. S.), in honour of St. Inan, from whose name, with 
 the last letter of the word saint, the appellation of the 
 fair has been formed, by corrupt usage. Inan flourished 
 about the year 839, and though chiefly resident at 
 Irvine, occasionally remained for a time at this place, 
 where he has left memorials in the name applied to the 
 cleft in a rock, still called St. Inan's Chair, and in the 
 name of a well, called St. Inan's Well. A fair called 
 the " Trades' race " was formerly held in the month of 
 June, when the trades assembled, and went in order 
 through the town, with music and flags : this has been 
 given up ; but there is still an annual dinner of the 
 merchants, who were united as a society previously to 
 the year 172", and the whole of whom meet for the pur- 
 pose of conviviality on the anniversary, and choose a 
 president. A kind of fair, likewise, is held in July, called 
 the "Cadgers' race", when the carters ride in procession 
 through the town. A baron-bailie and a baron-officer 
 were formerly appointed by the Earls of Eglinton, who 
 had considerable property in the parish ; but nothing of 
 this kind has taken place for many years, and the town 
 has no particular local government. The town-house was 
 built by subscription, in 1817: the lower part consists of 
 two shops, and the upper part of a large hall, in which 
 the justice- of-peace courts, the sheriff small-debt circuit 
 courts, and public meetings are held ; it is also used as a 
 public reading-room. 
 
 The PARISH is in the form of a triangle, and is bounded 
 on the west by Kilbirnie loch. It measures at its great- 
 est length, from south-east to south-west, four miles ; 
 and comprises an area of 11,060 acres, of which 500 are 
 in Renfrewshire. About 320 acres in the parish are un- 
 cultivated, 100 acres in plantations, and the remainder is 
 pasture and tillage. The surface is considerably varied, 
 throughout, with undulations, without presenting any 
 remarkable elevations, the highest point, called Cuff hill, 
 being only 6,52 feet above the sea. From this eminence, 
 as well as from some of the uplands, extensive views are 
 Vol. I.— 121 
 
 obtained of the surrounding country, amply compen- 
 sating for the general uniformity of the local scenery. 
 The hill is supposed to take its name from the word 
 Coifi, or Cuifi, the appellation of the chief priest of the 
 Druids, and to have been a principal seat of the worship 
 of that ancient order : the fair of St. Inan, also, in later 
 times, was held here. The prospect from the summit 
 embraces the mountain ranges of Galloway and Carrick. 
 the expansive estuary of the Clyde, the outhne of the 
 Perthshire hills, and the majestic Ben-Lomond. The 
 surface of the parish gently slopes from the north-eastern 
 quarter, the vicinity of Cuff hill, and is lowest at Kil- 
 birnie loch, being here only ninety feet above the sea 
 level. From this sheet of water a stream flows north- 
 ward through Lochwinnoch to the river Clyde, along a 
 valley in which the line of railway to Glasgow also runs. 
 At Blaeloch-head is a small lake; and different parts of 
 the parish are enlivened by streams : the two principal are 
 the river Lugton, rising in Lochlibo, and falling into the 
 Garnock below Eglinton Castle ; and the Dusk, which 
 rises at Threepwood, and joins the Garnock at Dalgarvan, 
 below Dairy. 
 
 The lands present a great variety of soil, but in general 
 are fertile, and tolerably well cultivated ; the chief crop 
 is oats. Large portions are in pasture, and about 900 
 milch-cows, mostly of the Ayrshire breed, besides young 
 cattle, are grazed on the different grounds. Cheese is 
 consequently a leading article of traffic, and is purchased 
 of the tenants by cheese-merchants for the Glasgow- 
 market ; milk is disposed of to some extent in the sur- 
 rounding villages, and large quantities of rye-grass seed 
 are shipped to England by merchants residing in the 
 town. The farms are of small size, varying from fifty 
 to 100 acres ; and full two-thirds of the rent are made by 
 the sale of the cheese, which is of excellent quality, and 
 brings the highest price at market. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £15,140. The chief 
 mineral deposits are coal and limestone, which are 
 wrought extensively : clay-ironstone is also found, and 
 brick-clay is dug for use at two manufactories of drain - 
 tiles ; ironstone exists in several parts, and a freestone- 
 quarry is in operation. Plantations are rare, especially 
 those of an ornamental kind, except in the vicinity of the 
 mansions, among which is Caldwell House, at the eastern 
 extremity of the parish, a large and elegant modern struc- 
 ture, surrounded by a spacious park richly ornamented 
 with trees, including some of great stature and beauty. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Irvine, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage 
 of the Earl of Eglinton : the minister's stipend is 
 £251. 5. 11., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £130 
 per annum. Beith church, commenced in 1807, and 
 opened for public worship in 1810, is a plain edifice 
 with a tower and clock, and accommodates 1254 per- 
 sons; it was erected at a cost of £2790, and the bell, 
 which has a very fine tone, was the gift of Robert 
 Shedden, Esq., of London, a native of this parish. There 
 are places of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod 
 and members of the Free Church. The parochial school 
 affords instruction in tlie usual branches ; the master has 
 a salary of £26, with a substantial dwelling-house, a good 
 garden, and the usual fees. There are also schools at 
 Hazlehead and other places. A savings' bank was 
 formed in 1.S34; and two societies have been partly en- 
 dowed, for the relief of the poor. Alexander Montgo-
 
 BELH 
 
 BELL 
 
 merie, one of the earlier Scottish poets, and of some cele- 
 brity, was born in the parish. 
 
 BELHAVEN, a village and watering-place, in the 
 parish of Dunbar, county of Haddington, f of a mile 
 (\V.) from the town of Dunbar; containing 380 inhabit- 
 ants. It is a suburb of Dunbar, pleasantly situated on 
 the south-eastern shore of Belhaven bay, which opens 
 into the Firth of Forth ; and a strong mineral spring 
 draws hither a number of summer visiters. A church 
 was opened in 1840, which is now a place of worship in 
 connexion with the Free Church. The place gives the title 
 of Baron to a branch of the noble family of Hamilton. 
 
 BELHELVIE, a parish, in the district and county of 
 Aberdeen, 8 miles (N. by E.) from Aberdeen ; contain- 
 ing 1594 inhabitants. The name of this place is derived 
 from a word in the Gaelic language, signifying the 
 " mouths of the rivulets", the locality being marked by 
 the course of several small streams into the sea. Here 
 were several Druidical temples, which have now disap- 
 peared before the operations of husbandry. Numerous 
 tumuli and barrows are still visible, in which urns are 
 found, made of coarse clay, and filled with dust and 
 human bones, pointing out this spot as the scene of 
 some extensive military operations, the particulars of 
 which are entirely unknown ; and on the sea-shore is a 
 bed of yellow flints, where a considerable number of ar- 
 row-heads have been found at different times. A large 
 part of the parish, known as the estate of Belhelvie, once 
 belonged to the Earl of Panmure, but being forfeited in 
 1715, it was purchased by the York Buildings' Company, 
 and again sold, in lots, in 1782, before the court of ses- 
 sion ; since which time it has been brought into a very 
 superior state of agricultural improvement. 
 
 The parish is bounded on the east by the German 
 Ocean, and the number of acres within its limits is 
 19,000, of which 5000 were recovered not long since 
 from moorland, and 5000 still consist of sea-beech, peat- 
 bog, and wood. About 4000 acres of the cultivated land 
 are in grain crop, and 10,000 in turnip, potatoes, hay, 
 pasture, grass, &c. The coast consists of a fine sandy 
 beach ; but the general character of the surface, from 
 the sea to the western extremity, is hilly and broken. 
 The first land from the coast is a narrow belt of sand, 
 with short grass suited for pasture : this tract, on ac- 
 count of its smooth surface, was selected by the govern- 
 ment engineers appointed to measure Scotland, as the 
 most level ground to be met with, for laying down a base 
 line of five miles and 100 feet. The next tract is an 
 alluvial deposit, crowded with marine stones of all sizes, 
 covered with mould and moss. After this, the ground 
 rises towards the western boundary, until it attains an 
 elevation of about 800 feet above the level of the sea. The 
 hills whereof the parish consists are formed into two 
 general ridges, from south to north, the termination of 
 the western extremities of which is the highest land in 
 the district. 
 
 The soil in the parts nearest the shore is sandy, and 
 in some places mixed to a great extent with clay and 
 stones ; some parts are rich alluvial deposits, and the 
 interior is a deep clayey mould, mixed sometimes with 
 peat-moss : the subsoil is usually clay and sand, with a 
 considerable admixture of stones. The wood, which 
 generally stands in hedge-rows, has all been recently 
 planted ; it comprises chiefly elm, plane, ash, alder, and 
 willow. The few sheep that are kept are the black-faced ; 
 122 
 
 and the cattle are mostly of the improved Aberdeenshire 
 breed, which, being small-boned and fleshy, and easily 
 fed up, are found most profitable : the cultivation of 
 grain, however, is the main dependence of the farmer. 
 Considerable improvements have taken place in hus- 
 bandry of late years, in the reclaiming of waste land, in 
 draining, and the formation of inclosures ; the farm- 
 houses are also on a much better scale than formerly. 
 Most of the changes have been made upon the best 
 principles, and by the united efforts of the people among 
 themselves. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £7317. 
 
 The rock consists of trap, a seam of which, about half 
 a mile broad, runs for seven miles through the parish 
 from south-east to north-west ; a rivulet flows through 
 this bed, and small hills frequently rise above the stream 
 to a height of some hundreds of feet, among which are 
 found all the ordinary kinds of minerals. On the south- 
 west side of this layer, the rocks are chiefly granite ; on 
 the opposite side they consist of coarse stone, fit only for 
 the construction of dykes. There are large beds of peat- 
 moss, some of which, near the shore, are covered with 
 ten or twelve feet of sea-sand. They are supposed to 
 extend some distance under the sea, as large masses or 
 blocks of hard peat- moss, with the remains of trees em- 
 bedded, are frequently cast upon the beach in stormy 
 weather : in the year 1799, a block containing upwards 
 of 1700 cubic feet was thrown upon the shore, which, 
 with the wood contained in it, had been perforated by 
 several large auger worms alive in their holes. A sal- 
 mon-fishery is carried on along the coast, in which stake- 
 nets are employed, and the profits arising from it are 
 very considerable. Fairs are held for the sale of cattle, 
 in spring, summer, and autumn. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is subject to the presbytery 
 and synod of Aberdeen, and is in the patronage of the 
 Crown: the minister's stipend is £179- 13., and there 
 is a good manse, with a glebe of five acres. The church, 
 which is in due repair, contains 519 sittings. There are 
 places of worship for the Free Church and United Pres- 
 byterian Synod. A parochial school is held on the usual 
 footing, the master having a salary of £'27, a house and 
 garden, fees to the amount of about £40, and a portion 
 of Dick's bequest : the classics and mathematics are 
 taught, with all the ordinary branches of education. 
 Another school is endowed with a few acres of land. 
 There is a savings' bank, with a stock of about £300 ; 
 and bequests have been left for the relief of the poor, 
 amounting to about £20 per annum. The antiq\iities 
 are, some tumuli, and the ruins of an old chapel. There 
 are several chalybeate springs, but none of them of par- 
 ticular note. 
 
 BELLIE, a parish, in the counties of Banff and 
 Elgin, 8 miles (E. by S.) from Elgin ; comprising the vil- 
 lage of Fochabers and part of the quoad sacra district of 
 Enzie, and containing 2434 inhabitants. By some the 
 Gaelic word bellaidth, signifying " broom", has been con- 
 sidered as giving name to this place ; but others derive 
 the appellati(m from beul-ailh, the meaning of which is 
 " the mouth of the ford". The parish is situated on the 
 eastern bank of the river Spey, and is bounded on the 
 north by the Moray Firth. It is of an oblong form, but 
 narrower at the northern than at the opposite end ; and 
 comprises 12,048 acres, of which 3658 are arable, 643 
 pasture, 2852 wood, and the remainder chiefly moor. 
 
 I
 
 BELL 
 
 BEND 
 
 The highest land is in the south-eastern portion, consist- 
 ing principally of barren uncultivated moor, diversified 
 by hills of various figure and altitude ; the soil here is 
 partly clayey loam, mixed with moss, and resting on a 
 substratum of blue slate. On the west and south of this 
 high district is a red impervious clay, intermixed with 
 gravel and small stones. The soil near the eastern 
 boundary of the parish is sandy and light, and the lower 
 lands are of the same nature, approximating in the vici- 
 nity of the river to a fertile loam, resting on a stony or 
 gravelly bed, once overflowed with water. The tract 
 along the coast, about a quarter of a mile wide, is altoge- 
 ther barren. All kinds of grain and of green crops are 
 raised, of good quality ; and an improved method of 
 husbandry has been pursued with considerable enter- 
 prise, for a number of years : barley was formerly the 
 leading crop, but since the suppression of illicit distilla- 
 tion, wheat has been grown in large quantities, and, with 
 oats, turnips, and potatoes, receives much attention. The 
 manures comprise lime, sea-weed, farm-yard dung, and 
 the refuse of herrings obtained from the fishing-station 
 of Port-Gordon ; with, sometimes, portions of bone-dust. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £4802, 
 including £617 for the Elginshire portion. 
 
 The principal rock is the red sandstone, consisting of 
 a mixture of dark argillaceous and siliceous earths, large 
 masses of which are applied to various architectural 
 uses ; but though very hard when first quarried, its fri- 
 able quality after long exposure to the air renders it ne- 
 cessary to cover it with a thick coating of lime. The 
 loose strata, of the same component parts, in which it is 
 generally found, are much in demand for roads and gar- 
 den-walks, and its interior often contains breccia rock. 
 Beautiful specimens of asbestos are frequently found, 
 washed down, as is supposed, by the mountain streams. 
 The scenery is relieved with Scotch fir, and some birch 
 and larch. The grounds of the splendid mansion of 
 Gordon Castle exhibit a fine display of numerous other • 
 trees, among which are many limes, planes, and horse- 
 chesnuts, with majestic rows of elm and beech ; and an 
 eminence known as the "holly bank" is covered with a 
 profusion of that evergreen, of the most luxuriant de- 
 scription. The magnificent Castle, the seat of the Duke 
 of Richmond, is situated in a spacious park in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of Fochabers, and extends in a direction 
 from east to west nearly .'j/O feet. It is a modern struc- 
 ture, and the roof and interior of the eastern wing are of 
 very recent date, having been restored in consequence of 
 an accidental fire on the 1 1th of July, 18'27. The great 
 road from Edinburgh to Inverness through Aberdeen 
 traverses the parish, and crosses the Spey by a bridge 
 originally built in 1804, at a cost of upwards of £14,000. 
 Two of the western arches of the bridge were carried 
 away by the flood of 18'29, and were replaced in 1832 
 by a beautiful wooden arch of 184 feet span, raised at an 
 expense of more than £5000, for defraying which a pon- 
 tage is levied on wheel-carriages, horses, and foot-pas- 
 sengers. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is in the pres- 
 bytery of Strathbogie, synod of Moray, and in the 
 patronage of the Duke of Richmond : the minister's 
 stipend is £1.58. 6. 8., of which about £60 are received 
 from the exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £33 per annum. The church is situated in the village 
 of Fochabers, and is a handsome edifice, built in 1798. 
 123 
 
 There i.s a place of worship for members of the Free 
 Church. An episcopal chapel was lately built by the 
 Duchess of Gordon, on the north side of Fochabers ; the 
 Roman Catholics have a place of worship in that village, 
 and another about four miles distant, near the eastern 
 boundary, where their clergyman resides. The parochial 
 school affords instruction in the classics, in addition to the 
 usual branches : the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with 
 a house and garden given by the Gordon family, and £18 
 fees ; he also participates in the Dick bequest. A legacy 
 of 100,000 dollars was left by Mr. Alexander Milne, mer- 
 chant of New Orleans, and a native of Fochabers, who 
 died in October 1839, for the erection and endowment 
 of a free school for the parish of Bcllie : a great part of 
 this money has been realized, and a body of directors, 
 incorporated by act of parliament, have established a free 
 school. To the north of Gordon Castle are the remains 
 of a military station of quadrangular form, styled the 
 " Roman Camp", thought to have been formed by a por- 
 tion of the troops of Agricola, and intended to cover a 
 ford on the river Tuessis, or Spey. A little to the east 
 are the remains of a Druidical temple ; and not far off, 
 a mound called the " Court hillock", supposed to have 
 been the seat of an ancient court of justice. Within the 
 Duke of Richmond's park is an old cross, around which 
 the village of Fochabers stood, until the latter was re- 
 moved to its present situation by Alexander, fourth Duke 
 of Gordon. — See Fochabers. 
 
 BELLS-QUARRY, a village, in the parish of Mid 
 Calder, county of Edinburgh, 2 miles (W.) from Mid 
 Calder ; containing 120 inhabitants. 
 
 BELLSHILL, a village, in the parish of Bothwell, 
 Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 1^ mile (E.) 
 from Bothwell; containing 1013 inhabitants. It lies 
 on the great road from Edinburgh to Glasgow, and the 
 hill from which it is named attains an elevation of 372 
 feet above the sea. The population partake in the manu- 
 factures of the parish. There is a post-office ; also a 
 United Presbyterian meeting-house, and two schools. 
 
 BELLSTOWN, a hamlet, in the parish of Methven, 
 county of Perth ; containing 25 inhabitants. 
 
 BELLYCLONE,a hamlet, in the parish of Maderty, 
 county of Perth ; containing 69 inhabitants. It is 
 situated a little east of the road from Foulis to Auchter- 
 arder, and on the south side of the small river Pow. 
 
 BENBECULA, an island, in the parish of South 
 UisT, county of Inverness; containing 2107 inhabit- 
 ants. It lies between the islands of North and South 
 Uist, from the latter of which it is separated by a narrow- 
 channel, nearly dry at low water. Benbecula is a low 
 island, about nine miles in length and the same in 
 breadth, with a sandy and unproductive soil, except on 
 its western side, which is rather fertile. The coast all 
 round is indented with bays, and in the interior are nu- 
 merous fresh-water lakes : a great quantity of sea-weed 
 is thrown on the shore, from which kelp is made. A 
 missionary here has a stipend of £60, with an allowance 
 of £20 more in lieu of a manse. There were formerly 
 some remains of a nunnery, tlie stone of which has been 
 used in the erection of a mansion. 
 
 BENDOCHY, a parish, in the county of Perth, 
 2 miles (N.) from Cupar-Angus ; containing 783 inha- 
 bitants. This place, previously to the Reformation, be- 
 longed principally to the monks of the Cistercian abbey 
 at Cupar-Angus, and till that time the church was the 
 
 R2
 
 BEND 
 
 B E NH 
 
 parish church of Cupar- Ann;us ; but after the dissolution 
 of monasteries the lands were sold, and the resident 
 tenants generally became the purchasers. Many of 
 these lands still retain their ancient names, as Monk- 
 Mire ; Monk-Callie ; and the Abbey Mill of Blacklaw, to 
 which the adjacent estates were bound in thirlage, from 
 which the proprietors lately obtained their exemption 
 by the payment of large sums of money. At Monk- 
 Callie formerly existed a small cell, the cemetery of 
 which is still used as a burying-ground ; and there are 
 yet to be traced the foundations of an ancient chapel 
 dedicated to St. Phink. The parish, which is situated 
 near the eastern extremity of the county, is bounded on 
 the south by the river Isla, and the lower lands are in- 
 tersected by the river Ericht, which divides them into 
 two nearly equal parts. The Isla and the Ericht both 
 have their source in the Grampian range : the former, 
 after a south-eastern course of several miles, entering 
 Perthshire, deviates to the south-west, and falls into the 
 Tay at Kinclaven ; and the Ericht, which consists of the 
 united streams of the Blackwater and the Ardle, forms 
 a confluence with the Isla. The northern extremity of 
 the parish is as much as twelve miles distant from the 
 southern ; but the surface is divided into detached por- 
 tions by the intervention of the parishes of Rattray and 
 Blairgowrie, which separate the highland from the low- 
 land districts ; and the whole area is not more than 
 10,000 acres, of which 5145 are arable, 2963 meadow and 
 pasture, and 9S6 woodland and plantations. 
 
 The soil, in the lower lands, is rich, and the system of 
 agriculture in a highly improved state ; the chief crops 
 are wheat, barley, and oats, with potatoes and turnips. 
 The introduction of bone-dust, and more lately of guano, 
 for manure, has tended greatly to the improvement of 
 the lands ; furrow-draining has been extensively prac- 
 tised, and by the construction of embankments near the 
 Isla and the Ericht, 500 acres of most valuable land 
 have been protected from the floods of these rivers. No ■ 
 sheep are reared in the parish, but considerable numbers 
 are bought in October, and fed upon the turnips. The 
 cattle are of the Teeswater and Angus breeds in the 
 lower parts of the parish, and in the uplands chiefly of 
 the Highland breed : great numbers of cattle are stall- 
 fed, chiefly on potatoes, for the shambles. There are 
 salmon-fisheries on the Isla and Ericht, but they are 
 not rented at more than £20 per annum. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £6951. The sub- 
 stratum of the lowerdistricts affords a supply of freestone, 
 several quarries being in operation ; and there is a bed 
 of clay-slate crossing the highland portion of the parish, 
 which might perhaps be profitably wrought. A mill 
 was erected at Cupar-G range, by Mr. Archer, about the 
 year 1840, for extracting the farina of potatoes; and 
 the flour thus obtained is of excellent quality. The 
 turnpike-roads from Cupar-Angus and from the Bridge 
 of Cally to Blairgowrie pass through the parish, and an 
 omnibus runs daily to the railway at Cupar-Angus. 
 For ecclesiastical purposes, Bendochy is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Meigle and synod of Angus 
 and Mearns : the minister's stipend is about £250, with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £14 per annum ; patron, 
 the Crown. The church is a very ancient structure, 
 containing a monument to Nicol Campbell, of Keithick, 
 son of Donald, abbot of Cupar-Angus ; a curiously 
 carved pulpit, and various antique relics : it was re- 
 124 
 
 paired in 1843, and has 400 sittings. The parochial 
 school is well conducted ; the master has a salary of £34. 
 4. 4., with a house and garden, and other emoluments 
 to the extent of £15 per annum. The late Principal 
 Playfair, of St. Andrew's, author of a work on chronology, 
 was a native of this parish. — See Persie. 
 
 BEXHOLME, a parish, in the county of Kincar- 
 dine, three miles (S. W.) from Bervie, and on the road 
 from Aberdeen to Dundee ; containing, with the village 
 of Johnshaven, 1648 inhabitants. The name is derived 
 from ben, a hill, and holme, a piece of low level ground ; 
 terms which are descriptive of the peculiar features of 
 the district. Very little is known concerning the early 
 history of the locality. It appears that the ancient 
 Tower of Benholme, a strong building still in a good 
 state of preservation, was formerly the residence of the 
 earls-marischal, memorials of whom remain in inscrip- 
 tions upon two monuments transferred from the burying- 
 aisle of the old church, and now forming part of the 
 wall of the present edifice. The parish is nearly square 
 in form, and contains about 5400 acres, of which upwards 
 of 4000 are under cultivation, and 325 in wood. It is 
 bounded on the south-east by the German Ocean, and 
 the surface is considerably varied, though there is no 
 elevation deserving the name of a hill, except that of 
 Gourdon, which rises to a height of 400 feet at the 
 boundary between Benholme and Bervie. The shore is 
 about three miles in length, and along it is a plain 
 extending the whole distance, and varying in breadth 
 from 100 yards to a quarter of a mile. Beyond is an 
 acclivity of equal extent, the surface of which is furrowed 
 in many places with lofty ridges ; and from this the 
 ground gently rises till it reaches the high lands of 
 Garvock, on the western boundary of the parish. The 
 coast, which in general is rough and cragged, has 
 neither cliffs nor headlands, and is altogether barren 
 and uninteresting in its aspect ; it is indented with the 
 small bay of Johnshaven, and that of the Haughs of 
 Nether Benholme. There are three small streams in the 
 parish, two of which meet a little below the church, at 
 the corner of the manse garden, and after running about 
 a quarter of a mile, fall into the German Ocean. These 
 rivulets, during heavy rains, frequently swell to a con- 
 siderable size, and, augmented by the waters from the 
 drainage of the lands, overflow the banks of the deep 
 and narrow hollows through which they flosv, and commit 
 great havoc upon the neighbouring grounds. 
 
 There is every variety of soil, from fine soft loam to 
 wet heavy clay, the latter of which predominates. In 
 some places the earth is light and sandy, and consists 
 to a very considerable extent of a deep alluvial deposit, 
 intermixed with boulders of different sizes, some of 
 quartz, some of granite, others of greywacke, and a few 
 of trap, and which are scattered in great quantities over 
 the fields. Most of the plantations are of recent growth, 
 except those about Benholme and Brotherton : they con- 
 sist chiefly of fir, ash, beech, and oak ; but the trees 
 invariably pine and become stunted in growth when 
 within the range of the sea-breeze, those only exhibiting 
 a tolerably healthy appearance which are further re- 
 moved and under some protecting cover. The state of 
 husbandry is excellent : the lands are well drained, and 
 many of the farms are provided with threshing-machines, 
 more than half of which are driven by water; the farm- 
 buildings are generally good, and much spirit and enter-
 
 BERN 
 
 BERT 
 
 prise have been shewn within the last twenty or thirty 
 years in recovering desolate wastes. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £5501. The prevailing 
 rock is the old red sandstone and conglomerate, the 
 strata of which are intersected from east to west with 
 dykes of trap; these rocks are diversified by almost 
 every variety of quality and intermixture, and in the 
 trap formation agates have been found in different parts 
 of the parish. There is a considerable quarry of sand- 
 stone on the farm of Forth, upon the Brotherton estate, 
 on the western boundary of the parish. The seats are, 
 the mansion-house of Benholme, the entrance to which, 
 in the direction of Benholme Tower, is by a passage 
 formed over the moat on the west of that ancient struc- 
 ture ; and Brotherton House, a very ancient edifice, with 
 a terraced garden. The linen manufacture employs 
 about 230 hands ; and there is a fishery, the produce of 
 which, consisting of cod, haddocks, and turbot, with a 
 few small fish, is cured, and sent to Laurencekirk, For- 
 doun, 8cc., and sometimes to Montrose. Herrings are 
 also taken ; and salmon are caught with tolerable success 
 by means of bag-nets, the shore being too rocky to allow 
 of the use of stake-nets. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Fordoun, synod of Angus and Mearns. 
 The patronage belongs to the family of Scott of Brother- 
 ton, and Lord Cranstoun, proprietor of Benholme, the 
 former for two turns, and the latter for one : the stipend 
 of the minister is £232. 4., with a manse, built in 1826, 
 and a glebe of six acres, valued at £12. 10. per annum. 
 Benholme church, built in 1832, is a neat edifice in good 
 repair, accommodating 768 persons : the old church, 
 which was taken down in 1832, was furnished with a 
 font for holy water, an incense altar, and a niche in the 
 wall, supposed to have been a receptacle for sacred 
 relics ; and there are several curious inscriptions on the 
 stones yet preserved, one of which points to this edifice 
 as the burying-place of the Keith family. Here are 
 places of worship belonging to the Free Church and 
 United Presbyterian Synod. The parochial school affords 
 instruction in Latin and the usual branches of education, 
 under a master who has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with £22 
 fees. A parish library consisting of 500 volumes, and 
 a juvenile library with 400, are extensively used by the 
 inhabitants. There are also two friendly societies, one 
 of which has a stock of £600 ; and a clothing and fuel 
 society has been established. 
 
 BENNETSTONE, a village, in the parish of Pol- 
 MONT, county of Stirling; containing 642 inhabitants. 
 It is situated a few miles east of Falkirk, and the popula- 
 tion consists chiefly of labourers and a few artisans. In 
 a schoolroom in the village, divine service is occa- 
 sionally performed by various ministers of dissenting con- 
 gregations. 
 
 BENVIE, a village, in the parish of Liff and Ben- 
 vie, county of Forfar, 5 miles (W. by N.) from Dun- 
 dee ; containing 60 inhabitants. It is situated near the 
 borders of Perthshire, which bounds the parish on the 
 east. About a mile from the present church are the 
 ruins of the old church of Benvie ; and near the village 
 is a strong chalybeate spring. 
 
 BERNERA, an island, in the parish of Barra, 
 
 county of Inverness ; containing 30 inhabitants. It 
 
 is one of the Hebrides, and the most southern of the 
 
 whole range of these islands. Bernera is about one 
 
 125 
 
 mile in length, and three-quarters of a mile in breadth. 
 From its being also called the Bishop's Isle, it seems to 
 have belonged to the Bishop of the Isles ; and it is said 
 to have previously been a sanctuary of the Druids. The 
 soil is fertile, and in the centre is a fresh-water lake, 
 diversified with small islets ; towards the south the 
 rocks are rugged and precipitous, and on this side is a 
 point of land called Barra Head. 
 
 BERNERA, an island, in the parish of Harris, 
 island of Lewis, county of Inverness; containing 713 
 inhabitants. This isle, with the isles of Pabbay, Killi- 
 gray, and Ensay, constituted the quoad sacra parish of 
 Bernera. It is situated in the sound of Harris, and is 
 about four miles in length and one and a half in breadth, 
 comprising 3545 acres of arable and 1310 of pasture 
 land. The surface is rocky, principally whinstone, and 
 the soil mostly of a sandy quality, interspersed with 
 patches of moor ; the tenants have a small portion of 
 ground called a croft, and two tenants have each about 
 330 acres. The manufacture of kelp partly employs the 
 population ; and fish, chiefly ling, cod, and skate, are 
 obtained at certain seasons. Fairs for black-cattle and 
 horses take place in July and September. The parish 
 was in the presbytery of Uist, synod of Glenelg, and in 
 the patronage of the Crown ; the stipend of the minister 
 is £120, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £1 per 
 annum, with the right of cutting peat. Bernera church 
 was erected in 1S3S. There are some remains of reli- 
 gious houses on the island. 
 
 BERNERA, GREAT and LITTLE, two islands, in 
 the parish of UtG, island of Lewis, county of Ross and 
 Cromarty. These islands are situated in Loch Roag, 
 and off the western coast of the island of Lewis ; the 
 first is about twelve miles long and four broad, and the 
 other four miles in length and one in breadth. They 
 are two of a large group of islands in an arm of the sea 
 which here indents the main land of Lewis. Great 
 Bernera abounds with lakes, and has a considerable 
 portion of fertile land ; it contains a tolerably entire 
 circle of large upright stones, only paralleled by those 
 of Stouehenge and Stenhouse, and supposed to be of 
 Druidic origin. Little Bernera, in which is a fresh- water 
 lake, is covered with pasture. 
 
 BERRIEDALE, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in 
 the parish of Latheron, county of Caithness, 27 miles 
 (S. E.) from Wick ; containing 1750 inhabitants. This 
 district, which lies on the coast, between the Ord of 
 Caithness and the harbour of Dunbeath, was separated 
 from Latheron in 1833. The church, which is close to 
 the sea-shore, was erected by government in 1826, at 
 an expense of £"50 ; it is a neat structure, containing 
 312 sittings. The minister has a stipend of £120, paid 
 by government, with a manse and small glebe provided 
 by the late, and continued by the present, Mr. Home, 
 proprietor of Langwell. About three miles from Berrie- 
 dale is a small place of worship for members of the Free 
 Church. A parochial school in connexion with this 
 district has been built at Dunbeath by William Sinclair, 
 Esq., of Freswick, at an expense of £300 ; and there are 
 also a school supported by the General Assembly, and a 
 Sabbath school. The place gives the title of Baron to 
 the Earl of Caithness. 
 
 BERTIIAM-SHOTTS, or SHOTTS, a parish, in the 
 Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; including the 
 villages of Harthill, Omoa-New-Town, Sallysburgh, and
 
 BERT 
 
 BERT 
 
 Shotts-Iron- Works ; and containing 3861 inhabitants, of 
 whom 751 are in the village of Shotts-Iron- Works, 5 
 miles (E. by S.) from Holytown. This place is generally 
 supposed to have derived its name from a famous robber 
 called Bartram de Shotts, who in ancient times sig- 
 nalized himself by his depredations, and was eventually 
 killed near the site of the present church. The whole 
 of this extensive parish, except Blair-mucks and Mur- 
 dostown, belonged to the Hamilton family from the 
 year 13/8 to the year 1630, when the Marquess of 
 Hamilton disposed of the larger part of the barony. 
 Not far from the mansion of Murdostown stood the 
 abbey of St. Bertram ; but no portion of this ancient 
 establishment is now to be seen. The parish, which was 
 formerly part of that of Bothwell, is nearly a parallelo- 
 gram in form, and is ten miles long and eight broad, 
 containing 25,434 acres. It is bounded on the north by 
 the North Calder, which separates it from East Monk- 
 land and Torphichen ; and on the south by the South 
 Calder, which divides it from the parish of Cambus- 
 nethan. The surface is in general tolerably level, but in 
 the middle quarter it is diversified by elevations, among 
 which are the Hirst, the Tilling, and the Cant hills. 
 The climate is more than ordinarily salubrious, which in- 
 duced the celebrated Dr. CuUen, who commenced prac- 
 tice iu the parish, to say, that Bertram- Shotts was the 
 Montpelier of Scotland. The rivers connected with the 
 district are the North and the South Calder, with a few 
 small burns not of sufficient importance to demand notice. 
 There is a loch called the Lily, iu which common trout 
 and an excellent species of red char are found. 
 
 The SOIL is for the most part clayey; on the banks 
 of the rivers a loamy soil prevails. Nearly two-thirds 
 of the land are arable ; and the rest, with the exception 
 of a small proportion of wood and common, is unshel- 
 tered moor, annually covered with the blossom of the 
 heather-bell. About 1000 acres are in wood, consisting 
 of Scotch fir, spruce, and larch, all of which thrive well : 
 formerly the Scotch fir was the only kind attended to. 
 The cows are in great repute for the superiority of the 
 stock, the improvement of which has been promoted by 
 the establishment of an agricultural society ; and the 
 horses, which are of the Clydesdale breed, are famed for 
 their strength and symmetry. Every kind of farming- 
 stock has been greatly improved within the last thirty 
 or forty years ; and much waste land has been reclaimed 
 by means of draining and digging, for which two prizes 
 were some time since awarded to two gentlemen in the 
 parish by the Highland Society of Scotland. The state 
 of the farm-houses is generally below that of buildings 
 of this class in parishes where agricultural improvement 
 has made much progress, but they are far better than 
 formerly, and are undergoing a gradual change, several 
 of them now being equal to almost any in Scotland. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £19,910. The parish forms a portion of the great coal- 
 field of Lanarkshire, and its carboniferous and miuera- 
 logical productions are extensive and various, the two 
 grand general divisions of its subterraneous contents 
 being the igneous and the sedimentary rocks. The 
 northern half of the land consists almost entirely of the 
 trap, or common greenstone ; the other half is the coal- 
 bed, which consists of the splint coal, the parrot or 
 cannel coal, the smithy coal, and the Shotts- Iron- Works 
 first and second coal. In some parts is a very fine iron- 
 126 
 
 stone, above the coal, and in others, a considerable 
 quantity of hmestone, lying at a great depth beneath the 
 coal, with a succession of 14" ditfereut strata between 
 them. There is an abundant supply of fire-clay of 
 various kinds in the carboniferous division of the parish, 
 lying over the coal, and large quantities of it are used 
 for making bricks for blast and air furnaces ; one of the 
 strata has been wrought for a considerable period, and 
 is several feet in thickness, though the portion which is 
 worked, in the middle of the stratum, is not more than 
 about three feet deep. 
 
 The parish contains two iron-works, one of which, in 
 the south-eastern quarter, designated Shotts- Works, is 
 not only adapted for the smelting of iron-ore, for which 
 there are three furnaces, but has connected with it an 
 extensive foundry, and a large establishment where 
 steam-engines of a superior kind for both land and 
 water are constructed. At the other establishment, 
 called the Omoa Iron- Works, situated in the south-west 
 part of the parish, three furnaces are also in effective 
 operation. These works, which together employ about 
 1400 or 1500 persons, have contributed to a large in- 
 crease in the population ; and by the circulation of several 
 hundreds of pounds weekly in the form of wages, great 
 changes and improvements have taken place in the 
 general appearance of the neighbourhood, particularly 
 through the formation of roads and the cultivation of 
 the land. Among the principal residences are, Murdos- 
 town House, belonging to Sir T. Inghs Cochrane ; Eas- 
 ter Moffat, a handsome modem edifice in the Elizabethan 
 style ; Shotts House ; Craighead House, belonging to 
 D. C. R. C. Buchanan, Esq. ; and Fortissat. Sub-post- 
 offices have been established at the villages of Sallys- 
 burgh and Shotts-Works. There are annual fairs, chiefly 
 for the sale of horses and cattle, on the third Tuesday 
 in June and November (O. S.), both of ancient date, 
 being held by a warrant granted by James II. in 1685 
 to the Duke of Hamilton. The parish is intersected in 
 the centre by the south road from Edinburgh to Glas- 
 gow, the most ancient road between those two cities. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes, Shotts is within the bounds 
 of the presbytery of Hamilton, synod of Glasgow and 
 Ayr. The patronage belongs to the Duke of Hamilton, 
 and the minister's stipend is £267. 11-, with a substan- 
 tial and commodious manse built in 1838, and a glebe 
 of nearly forty-four acres, in which are two seams of 
 coal. The church, the position of which is central, 
 occupies an elevated site; it was built in 1820, and has 
 1200 free sittings. There is a place of worship be- 
 longing to the United Original Seceders. The parochial 
 school affords instruction in the classics, with the usual 
 branches of education ; the master has a salary of £34. 
 4. 4., about £28 fees, and a house. Belonging to the 
 Shotts iron-works is also a school. Another, called 
 Murdostown school, has an endowment of £19 per 
 annum, assigned by Sir Thomas Inglis ; Harthill school 
 was endowed by tlie late James Wilson, Esq., with £500, 
 and another is supported by Mrs. Robert Haldane. 
 There are two circulating libraries, in one of which, at 
 the Shotts works, the collection of books is very supe- 
 rior ; and the poor have the benefit of a bequest of 
 £500, left by Thomas Mitchell, a native of the place. 
 Gavin Hamilton, the historical painter ; John Miller, 
 professor of law in the University of Glasgow, well known 
 to the literary world by several learned publications. 
 
 k
 
 B E 11 V 
 
 B ER V 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 and who was buried at Blantyre, not far from Shotts ; 
 and Dr. Matthew BaiUie, physician to George III., and 
 brother of Joanna BailUe the authoress, were all natives 
 of the parish. The Rev. James Baillie, father of Dr. 
 Matthew Baillie, was minister of Shotts. 
 
 BERVIE, or INVER- 
 BERVIE, a royal burgh, and 
 a parish, in the county of 
 Kincardine, .S'^^ miles (N. 
 N. E.) from Edinburgh ; con- 
 taining, with the village of 
 Gourdon, 134'2 inhabitants. 
 This place is named from 
 the small river Bervie, on its 
 north-eastern boundary, and 
 the stream is so called from 
 an ancient British word sig- 
 nifying a boiling or ebullition, 
 and descriptive of the peculiar course of the water. The 
 town appears to have been of importance in early times, 
 and to have attracted some attention. The fine old 
 castle of Hallgreen, which is romantically situated on 
 the shore, a little to the south of the town, and has been 
 recently repaired with due attention to its original style, 
 has a date on the west front, which, though partially 
 effaced, is traced to the year 13*6. The walls of this 
 building are massive, and perforated with arrows ; and 
 it seems to have been formerly surrounded by a moat, 
 with a drawbridge and a portcullis near the outer gate 
 of the court. Above one of the doors in the court, the 
 date of 1687, with the initials of the proprietor of that 
 period, is still visible. In one of the principal rooms, 
 on the stucco ceiling, is a coat of arms, with the motto 
 spero meliora, and the date 1683 ; and on the old wain- 
 scots are some Dutch paintings, consisting of two land- 
 scapes and a flower-piece. A spacious mansion indi- 
 cating, like the castle, the ancient residence of important 
 personages, and which is said to have belonged originally 
 to the Marischals, and was recently in the possession of 
 the noble family of Arbuthnott, was removed about 
 twenty or thirty years since, to make way for improve- 
 ments of building and agriculture j and several other 
 old buildings are still pointed out as having been the 
 town residences of neighbouring lairds. There was also, 
 in former times, a religious establishment of White 
 friars j and the discovery of some graves, in the con- 
 struction of a turnpike-road, near a place called Friar's 
 Dubbs, is supposed to mark the spot where this mo- 
 nastic order had a burying-ground. 
 
 At the time of the Rebellion in 1*4.5, the troops of 
 the Duke of Cumberland, suspecting that the inhabitants 
 of the neighbouring parish of Benholme had transported 
 provisions, by means of the Bervie boats, for the use of 
 the Pretender's troops who were passing by sea, began 
 to destroy and plunder the village of Johnshaven, in 
 Benholme jjarish, and to burn the boats of the Bervie 
 fishermen. The minister of Bervie, Mr. Dow, upon 
 hearing of this, repaired to the bridge of Benholme, 
 three miles distant, where he met the army, headed by 
 the royal suite, and so satisfied the duke of the loyalty 
 of his parishioners, that his royal highness went with 
 the minister to his house, and became his guest for the 
 night. An unusual occurrence took place here in the 
 year 1800, when a French privateer made its appearance 
 off the coast, and pursued several merchant vessels, 
 127 
 
 which were compelled to take shelter in the port of 
 Gourdon. A small body of volunteers belonging to the 
 place were immediately assembled, and marched down 
 to the beach in two divisions, to face the enemy ; and 
 one party, stationed among the rocks on the shore, 
 exchanged several rounds of musketry with the guns 
 of the sloop ; upon which the crew, suspecting that a 
 battery was about to be opened upon them by the other 
 division, who had proceeded in the direction of the old 
 castle of Hallgreen, crowded sail and made off. 
 
 The TOWN is situated at the eastern extremity of the 
 parish, near the small bay of Bervie, on the shore of the 
 German Ocean. The approach on the north-east is by 
 an elegant bridge over the river Bervie, of one arch, the 
 height of which from the stream is about eighty feet. A 
 meal and barley mill stands on the haugh below the 
 bridge, and near it a small spinning-mill ; on the upper 
 side of the bridge is a spinning-mill of three stories, 
 the first that was erected in Scotland for yarn and 
 thread. At the north entrance to the burgh stands 
 the head inn, commanding a fine view of the scenery 
 above the bridge, the remote distance being adorned 
 by the old castle of Allardice, with its trees and shrub- 
 bery, in the parish of Arbuthnott. Water of the best 
 description, from springs in the parish, is conveyed into 
 the town by leaden pipes, and deposited in reservoirs of 
 metal for general use. The chief manufacture is that of 
 the hnens usually called duck and dowlas, which is 
 carried on to a considerable extent through the medium 
 of agents, who superintend for merchants in Aberdeen, 
 Dundee, and Arbroath. A kelp manufacture existed for 
 some time ; but, like most others of the same descrip- 
 tion, it was given up when the duty was taken off foreign 
 barilla. The small port and fishing-village of Gourdon, 
 upwards of a mile distant, but within the parish, is a 
 place of some trade : vessels, however, are not chartered 
 here, but have to clear out at the custom-house in 
 Montrose. Two shipping companies are connected w-ith 
 the place, and vessels frequently come in with coal, lime, 
 pavement, wood, tiles, slates, and sometimes Orkney 
 and Shetland cattle and ponies ; and in return take 
 ballast or grain, grain being the only article exported 
 from Gourdon. 
 
 The principal fisheries are of salmon, cod and ling, 
 and haddock. The first of these is carried on in the 
 bay, commencing on the 2nd of February, and ending 
 on the 14th of September ; and the fish taken are consi- 
 dered of superior quality. The cod and ling fishery 
 begins on the 1st of October, and ends on July 15th : 
 about 300 cwt. are shipped every year, at Montrose, for 
 the London market. The haddocks which are caught 
 are dried and smoked, and consigned by a company 
 established here, to dealers in Glasgow and London, 
 with whom an extensive traffic is maintained. Six boats 
 are also engaged in a turbot and skate fishery, which 
 begins on the 1st of May, and ends on the l.'ith of July. 
 A herring-fishery formerly carried on was some time 
 since broken up, in consequence of the shore being de- 
 serted by the fish. Crabs and lobsters are taken in 
 great numbers among the rocks near the bay, and there 
 is a good supply of shrimps on the sands. 
 
 A market for corn was established a few years ago, 
 which commences at the close of harvest, and is open 
 every Wednesday afterwards for six months. It is in a 
 very flourishing state, being frequented by corn-mer-
 
 B E R V 
 
 BER V 
 
 chants from Montrose, Brechin, and Stonehaven, and 
 by farmers and millers from all the neighbouring pa- 
 rishes. About 40,000 quarters of grain are purchased 
 yearly, and the greater part of it shipped at Gourdon. 
 Two fairs have long been held annually for the sale of 
 cattle, one on the Thursday before the 19th of May, 
 and the other on the Thursday before the 19th of Sep- 
 tember. In 1834 three additional markets were esta- 
 blished, for the hiring of servants and the sale of cattle : 
 that for cattle in general, and for hiring servants, is on 
 the Wednesday before the '2'2nd of November, and those 
 for fat and other cattle are on the Wednesday before 
 Christmas (O. S.), and the Wednesday before the 13th 
 of February. The Aberdeen turnpike-road runs directly 
 across the parish, and affords considerable facility of in- 
 tercourse. 
 
 Bervie was erected into a royal burgh in 136*2, by 
 charter from King David II., who, having been forced 
 by stress of weather to land on a rock in the parish of 
 Kinneff, still called Craig-David,vvas received by the inha- 
 bitants of Bervie with so much kindness and hospitality 
 that he raised the town to the dignity of a royal burgh 
 as a mark of his gratitude and esteem. In the year 
 1595, James VI. renewed the charter, and confirmed 
 the privileges before granted. The public property is 
 distinctly marked out by the charter, comprehending 
 nearly the whole extent of the parish ; but the lands 
 now belonging to the town consist only of a piece of 
 moor, a few acres of haugh ground, and a range of braes 
 about a mile in extent: the revenue is about £1'20 a 
 year. The burgh is governed by a provost, three bailies, 
 a dean of guild, nine councillors, a treasurer, and a 
 clerk ; and, with Montrose, Brechin, Arbroath, and 
 Forfar, returns a member to parliament. The town-hall 
 is an edifice of two stories, the upper of which consists 
 of a hall and council-room, and the lower contains the 
 flesh and meal market, with a small arched vault for the 
 confinement of prisoners, which is very deficient as a 
 place of security. On the top of the building is a hand- 
 some belfry, with a bell which is rung four times every 
 day. Near the town-hall is a market-cross of great an- 
 tiquity, formed of a column of stone that measures 
 about fourteen feet high, with a ball on the summit, and 
 a flight of steps surrounding the base. 
 
 The PARISH, which was formerly joined to that of 
 Kinneff, but was separated from it about the time of the 
 Reformation, is of quadrilateral figure, and contains 
 about 1800 acres, of which 1'2'2'2 are under cultivation, 
 about 70 planted, and 500 acres waste. It is bounded 
 on the south-east by the German Ocean, and embraces 
 about a mile and a half of coast, which, with the excep- 
 tion of the part near the town, is covered with rocks, 
 mostly hidden at high water. The craig where King 
 David landed, also called Bervie Brow, bordering on the 
 parish, is a conspicuous landmark for mariners ; and 
 Gourdon Hill, in the parish, is also seen at a great dis- 
 tance. The interior of the parish is consideraljly diver- 
 sified in its surface, rising gradually from east to west, 
 and being marked by two ranges of hills parallel to each 
 other. The ground is flat near the southern and eastern 
 boundaries, but the vicinity of the latter is ornamented 
 with a small fertile valley, through which the water of 
 Bervie (well stocked with trout) runs to the sea, and on 
 each side of which the land is elevated and varied. The 
 streams are, the Bervie, which rises in the Grampians, 
 128 
 
 and falls into the sea at the eastern extremity of the dis- 
 trict ; and the burn of Peattie, which runs from the 
 north-east boundary into the Bervie, and, though small, 
 is of very considerable benefit to the tenants through 
 whose farms it pursues its course. 
 
 The soil in the lower lands is a deep fertile loam, 
 resting on a gravelly subsoil ; the haugh lands adjoining 
 the sea consist of black earth, mixed with large quanti- 
 ties of pebbles, upon which they are said to be dependent 
 for their great fertility. In the upper district of the pa- 
 rish, some of the land is a stnmg soil, upon a clay bot- 
 tom ; but on the surface in the highest part, which 
 reaches an elevation of about 400 feet, very little earth 
 is to be seen, the ground chiefly consisting of naked 
 rock. AH kinds of corn and green crops are produced, 
 of excellent quality ; the plantations are flourishing, 
 though of recent growth, and comprise every variety of 
 trees usually to be met with. The system of husbandry 
 is of the most approved kind, and the highest state of 
 cultivation is indicated by the abundance and quality of 
 the produce. Improvements have been carried on to a 
 considerable extent within the last few years, especially 
 in draining and reclaiming waste land ; and the farm- 
 houses and offices, which are roofed with slate or tiles, 
 are in good condition. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £3344. The predominating rock is 
 sandstone, which in some places is marked by veins of 
 trap, between one and two feet in thickness. Boulders 
 of quartz, granite, mica-slate, gneiss, &c., are to be seen 
 upon the shore, and near the village of Gourdon the 
 beach consists of masses of small pebbles of jasper, por- 
 phyry, slate, and agate, of the last of which beautiful 
 specimens are sometimes found among the loose soil on 
 the higher grounds, as well as on the beach. Several 
 quarries of sandstone are wrought in the parish, supply- 
 ing an excellent material, of which the church and most 
 of the new buildings in this and the neighbouring parishes 
 were constructed. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Fordoun, synod of Angus 
 and Mearns ; the patronage belongs to the Crown, and 
 the minister's stipend is £141. 12., with a manse, and a 
 glebe worth £18 per annum. Bervie church, which was 
 opened on the 1st of January, 1837, and contains 900 
 sittings, is an elegant structure, with a square tower more 
 than 100 feet in height, ornamented with carved minarets. 
 The site, which is gently elevated, at a small distance 
 from the street, is highly advantageous ; and the main 
 entrance and imposing outer gate heighten the general 
 effect of an object that has greatly contributed to improve 
 the aspect of the town. There are places of worship 
 belonging to the Free Church and the Independents. 
 The parochial school affords instruction in the classics, 
 mathematics, and the usual branches of education ; the 
 master has a salary of £29. 18. 9., with an allowance of 
 £2. 2. 9. in lieu of a garden, and between £15 and £20 
 fees. A bequest of £500 was left to the poor, who re- 
 ceive the interest, by the late James Farquhar, Esq., of 
 Hallgreen. The burgh confers the title of Baron on Lord 
 Viscount Arbuthnott, whose ancestor Sir Robert Arbuth- 
 nott was knighted for his faithful adhesion to the for- 
 tunes of Charles I., and was afterwards raised to the 
 peerage by the style of Baron Inverbervie and Viscount 
 Arbuthnott, Nov. I6th, 1641 : he died in 1655. The 
 present peer is the eighth viscount.
 
 B E R W 
 
 B E RW 
 
 Biirsh Seal. 
 
 BERWICK, NORTH, a 
 
 burgh, market-town, and pa- 
 rish, in the county of Had- 
 dington, 10 miles (N. by E.) 
 from Haddington, and '2'i 
 (N. E. by E.) from Edin- 
 I burgh ; containing I7O8 in- 
 habitants, of whom 102s are 
 in the town. It derives its 
 name of Berwick from its 
 situation at the mouth of the 
 Firth of Forth ; and though 
 its origin is involved in ob- 
 scurity, the manor appears to have belonged to the Earls 
 of Fife, in whose possession it remained till near the 
 close of the fourteenth century, and of whom Duncan, 
 who died in the year 1154, founded a convent here for 
 sisters of the Cistercian order. This establishment was 
 amply endowed by the founder, and by numerous other 
 benefactors, with lands in the counties of Berwick, Rox- 
 burgh, Edinburgh, and West Lothian ; and continued to 
 flourish till the Reformation, when the site and revenues 
 were conferred by James VI. on Sir Alexander Home, of 
 North Berwick. After the death of Isabel, the last 
 Countess of Fife, the manor passed into the possession 
 of William, Earl of Douglas, who in 13*3 obtained from 
 Robert II. a charter constituting this place a royal burgh, 
 with the privileges of a market and port, a custom-house, 
 and other advantages. In 1455, the manor became for- 
 feited to the crown, on the attainder of James, Earl of 
 Douglas ; but it was restored by James III. to Archibald, 
 Earl of Angus, the heir male of the Douglas family, and 
 erected into a free barony in his favour. After the grant 
 of the monastery and part of its lands to Sir Alexander 
 Home by James VI., the barony, on the failure of that 
 family, passed into other hands, and in 1640 was con- 
 firmed by act of parliament to Sir William Dick, from 
 whom it passed to Sir Hew Dalrymple, president of the 
 court of session, and ancestor of the present proprietor. 
 The TOWN is advantageously situated on the south 
 side of the Firth of Forth, near its junction with the sea, 
 and consists principally of two streets. One of these is 
 of considerable length, extending from east to west, and 
 is intersected near its eastern extremity by the other, a 
 shorter street, which is continued to the harbour. The 
 bouses in the first are irregularly built, and many of 
 them of antique appearance, while those in the other 
 street are of a superior class, and mostly inhabited by 
 the gentry and more opulent families. On both sides of 
 the latter street are rows of trees, giving it a pleasant 
 and cheerful appearance ; and the scenery surrounding 
 the town combines many interesting and picturesque 
 features. A subscription library has been established, 
 which is well supported, and contains a good collection; 
 and a branch of the East Lothian Itinerating Library is 
 also stationed here. The waste or common lauds on the 
 west of the town are much frequented by the members of 
 a golf clnb, who hold meetings for the celebration of that 
 game, which is also the favourite amusement of the in- 
 habitants. The only manufactory is a foundry for the 
 construction of steam-engines, machines for making tiles 
 for draining, and other articles. The trade of the i-ort 
 consists mainly in the exportation of agricultural pro- 
 duce and of lime, chiefly for the Newcastle and London 
 markets ; and the importation of coal, rape and oil cake. 
 Vol. L— 129 
 
 and crushed bones for manure : the exportation of grain 
 and lime has materially decreased, but that of potatoes 
 very much increased, within the last few years. There 
 are four vessels registered as belonging to the port, of 
 the aggregate burthen of 273 tons. The harbour is spa- 
 cious and secure ; it is dry at low water, but is commo- 
 dious, and several sums have been expended on its im- 
 provement. Fishing is pursued on a limited scale. The 
 market is chiefly for the supply of the town and neigh- 
 bourhood : fairs are held in June and November, and 
 facility of communication with the adjacent towns is 
 maintained by good roads, and by the North Berwick 
 branch of the North-British railway. 
 
 The inhabitants obtained their earliest charter in the 
 reign of Robert II. It was confirmed in 1568 by James 
 VI. ; and the government of the burgh is vested in two 
 bailies, a treasurer, and nine councillors, elected accord- 
 ing to the provisions of the act 3rd and 4th of William 
 IV., cap. 76. The magistrates hold no regular courts, 
 but act as justices of the peace within the royalty 
 of the burgh ; all criminal jurisdiction is referred to 
 the procurator-fiscal and sheriff of the county, and 
 petty misdemeanors are punished by temporary confine- 
 ment. A town officer is appointed by the magistrates, 
 who also choose a town-clerk and a shore-master. The 
 town-hall is a commodious building, and there is a small 
 l)rison. Since the Union the burgh has united with 
 Haddington, Dunbar, Lauder, and Jedburgh, in return- 
 ing a member to the imperial parliament ; and by the act 
 ^nd and 3rd of William IV., cap. 65, the right of elec- 
 tion, previously vested in the corporation and burgesses, 
 was extended to the £10 householders, resident within 
 the parliamentary limits of the burgh. The bailies are 
 the returning officers. 
 
 The surface of the parish is greatly varied. A range 
 of rocks of various hues intersects it from east to west, 
 presenting in some parts a barren and rugged aspect, 
 and in others being clothed with wood. About half a 
 mile south of the town is a hill of conical form, called 
 North Berwick Law, crowning a gently sloping eminence, 
 and rising to an elevation of 940 feet above the sea. It 
 was occupied as a signal station during the war ; and the 
 remains of the buildings, which were suffered to fall to 
 decay, have the picturesque effect of an ancient ruin. 
 The hill is wooded near its base, and the other parts of 
 its surface, comprising an area of nearly seventy acres, 
 afford pasturage for sheep ; the views from it are exten- 
 sive and strikingly diversified. In the mouth of the 
 Firth of Forth, and about a mile and a half from the 
 shore, is the well-known rock called the Bass, nearly a 
 mile in circumference, rising abruptly from the sea, in 
 a circular form, to a height of 420 feet. It is of very 
 rugged aspect, extremely precipitous on the north side, 
 on the south more resembling a cone in form, and acces- 
 sible only on the south-east, where are two landing- 
 places. About half way up the steep are the remains of 
 an ancient chapel. The rock is perforated, from the 
 north-west to the south-east, by a cavern, which is dry 
 at full tide ; and on the side commanding the landing- 
 place are the remains of an old fortress, and of the dun- 
 geons formerly used for state prisoners, for which pur- 
 pose it was purchased from Sir Andrew Ramsay in 1671. 
 Its surface is estimated at seven acres, and it forms an 
 object both of scenic and historical interest. It is sup- 
 posed to have been the retreat of Baldred, the apostle of 
 
 S
 
 B E R W 
 
 BER W 
 
 East Lothian, in the sixth century ; and in 1406 was the 
 temporary asylum of James I., in which he was placed 
 by his father, Robert III., previously to his embarkation 
 tor France, to avoid the persecution of his uncle, the 
 Duke of Albany. On its purchase in I671, it was con- 
 verted into a state prison for the confinement of Cove- 
 nanting ministers ; after the Revolution of 1688, it was 
 no longer used for such a purpose. This rock, which is 
 let on lease to a keeper, affords pasturage for sheep, 
 which are in high estimation ; and is frequented in great 
 numbers by Solan geese, which, when young, are taken 
 by a hazardous process, and conveyed to the opposite 
 shore. Opposite to the town, and about a mile from the 
 coast, is the island of Cragleith, a barren rock about a 
 mile in circumference, abounding with rabbits, and re- 
 sorted to by sea-fowl, of which the puffin is the most 
 conspicuous. The coast of the parish is boldly rocky, 
 and indented with bays, one of which, of semicircular 
 form, reaches from the west of the harbour to Point 
 Garry ; and a still larger bay, about two miles east of 
 the town, and directly opposite to the Bass rock, called 
 Canty Bay, is the residence of the tenant of that rock 
 and his assistants. To the west the shore is a flat sand, 
 and towards the east a line of precipitous rocks, termi- 
 nating in a lofty eminence, on whose summit are the pic- 
 turesque ruins of Tantallan Castle, noticed hereafter. 
 
 The SOIL, though various, is generally fertile, and the 
 system of agriculture in a highly improved state ; the 
 whole number of acres is estimated at 3456, of which 
 3'280 are arable, about 1*0 in pasture and in woods and 
 plantations, and the remainder common. The chief 
 crops are wheat, barley, oats, peas, beans, potatoes, and 
 turnips. The principal manures are lime and rape- 
 rake ; furrow-draining with tiles has been extensively 
 adopted, and the farm-buildings and offices are gene- 
 rally substantial and commodious. About 1000 sheep 
 are annually fed ; and from 300 to 400 head of cattle, 
 mostly of the short-horned breed. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £1'2,967. The woods are 
 chiefly ash, elm, oak, beech, and plane. In this parish 
 the substrata are mainly trap, sandstone, and limestone ; 
 the sandstone, which is usually of a reddish hue, is fre- 
 quently intersected with strata of limestone. The rocks 
 are principally of the secondary formation : the lower 
 part of North Berwick Law is trap tuOFa, above which is 
 a sonorous clinkstone, and near the summit the height 
 assumes the character of amygdaloid ; the Bass rock is 
 generally a fine granular greenstone, abounding with 
 felspar, and strongly exhibiting the tabular structure. 
 At North Berwick Law are extensive quarries of ex- 
 cellent building-stone ; and at Rhodes, and on the 
 Balgone estate, limestone is quarried to a considerable 
 extent. North Berwick House is a fine mansion, erected 
 in 1777, and standing in grounds embellished with thriv- 
 ing plantations ; Balgone and Rockville are also hand- 
 some mansions, finely situated. 
 
 The parish appears to have existed from a remote 
 period of antiquity, and its church was most probably 
 founded by St. Baldred : on the foundation of the nun- 
 nery here, the church, with all its possessions, was given 
 by the noble founder to that establishment. For eccle- 
 siastical purposes. North Berwick is within the bounds 
 of the presbytery of Haddington, synod of Lothian and 
 Tweeddale. The stipend of the incumbent is £306. 2. ■=>., 
 and the patronage is exercised by Sir Hew Dalrymple, 
 130 
 
 Bart. ; the manse is a substantial and comfortable re- 
 sidence, built in 1825, and pleasantly situated on an 
 eminence, and the glebe is valued at £35 per annum. 
 The church, erected in 1770, on the site of the former 
 edifice, was in 1819 thoroughly repaired, and the inte- 
 rior renewed ; it is adapted for a congregation of 550 
 persons, and has a spacious cemetery, planted with 
 stately avenues of elms. There are places of worship 
 for members of the Free Church and the United Pres- 
 byterian Synod : the former was erected with a view to 
 honour the memory of the Covenanters imprisoned on 
 the Bass rock, and the expense was defrayed by special 
 subscription. The parochial school is but indifferently 
 attended : the master has a salary of £34. 4. i-., with 
 a house and garden ; the school fees are very incon- 
 siderable. An infants' school has been estabhshed ; 
 and on the lands of Tantallan is a sub-parochial school. 
 There are a bequest by Alexander Home, Esq., and a 
 donation of £450 called the Edwin fund, for the poor. 
 
 About a quarter of a mile to the w est of the town are 
 the remains of the Cistercian abbey, beautifully situated 
 on an eminence planted with trees, but so greatly dila- 
 pidated as scarcely to convey a faint idea of that once 
 venerable and stately edifice : the vaults, which formed 
 the principal relic, were many years since destroyed. 
 Near the harbour are the remains of what is supposed 
 to have been the ancient church, consisting chiefly of 
 the entrance doorway, which is still entire ; the sea is 
 constantly encroaching upon the cemetery, and laying 
 bare the remains of bodies interred there. Three miles 
 to the east of the town are the remains of the old Castle 
 of Tantallan, seated on a precipitous eminence project- 
 ing into the sea. The outer walls, of hexagonal form, 
 are of massive thickness ; and above the entrance is a 
 sculptured stone shield, bearing the device of its ancient 
 proprietors the Douglases. The interior consists of nu- 
 merous apartments, inaccessible from the dilapidated 
 state of the various staircases which formerly afforded 
 an approach ; and the vaults contain many dark dun- 
 geons. The original foundation of this castle is not 
 distinctly ascertained. It was the stronghold of the 
 Douglas family on their obtaining the barony of East 
 Lothian, at the accession of Robert II., and for centuries 
 the seat of their power. The fortress was always re- 
 garded as impregnable, and was frequently assaulted 
 without effect : it was finally besieged, and, after an 
 obstinate defence, taken by the forces under Oliver 
 Cromwell; and, together with the lauds, was sold by 
 the Marquess of Douglas to Lord President Dalrymple, 
 by whom it was dismantled, and suffered to fall into 
 decay. About half a mile to the west of the castle is 
 St. Baldred's Melt, a spring of excellent water. Fenton 
 Tower, an ancient edifice, of which only the bare walls 
 remain, is situated on a commanding eminence; and 
 nearly adjoining are the remains of the palace of Syd- 
 serf, so called from St. Serf, the instructor of Kentigern, 
 whose retreat was in this place. 
 
 John Mair or Major, author of the work De Gestis Sco- 
 toriim, published in 1521, was born at Gleghornie, in the 
 parish, in 1469 : he became a member of Christ's Col- 
 lege, Cambridge, where in 1518 he seems to have written 
 his learned history ; and he subsequently taught theo- 
 logy at Glasgow, and at St. Andrew's, dying about 1547. 
 Blackader, one of the martyrs of the Bass, is buried in 
 North Berwick churchvard. 
 
 f
 
 B E R W 
 
 BE R W 
 
 Arms. 
 
 BERAVICK - UPON - 
 TWEED, a port, borough, 
 parish, and a county of it- 
 self, 58 miles (E. by S.) from 
 Edinburgh, and 370 (N. by 
 W.) from London ; contain- 
 ing 8484 inhabitants. The 
 name of this town is sup- 
 posed by Leland to have 
 been originally Aberwkk, 
 from the British terms, Aber, 
 the mouth of a river, and 
 Wic, a town. By Camden 
 and other antiquaries the name is considered as expres- 
 sive merely of a hamlet, or granary, annexed to a place 
 of greater importance ; such appendages are usually in 
 ancient records styled berewics, and the town is thought 
 to have obtained its name from having been the grange 
 or berewic of the priory of Coldingham, ten miles distant. 
 The earliest autheutic notice of Berwick occurs in the 
 reign of Alexander I. In 11*6 it was given up to 
 Henry II. of England, with four other towns, by Wil- 
 liam the Lion, as a pledge for the performance of the 
 treaty of Falaise, by which, in order to obtain his release 
 from captivity after the battle of Alnwick in 1174, he 
 engaged to do homage to the English monarch as lord 
 paramount for all his Scottish dominions. Richard I., 
 to obtain a supply of money for his expedition to the 
 Holy Land, sold the vassalage of Scotland for 10,000 
 marks, and restored this and the other towns to William, 
 content with receiving homage for the territories only 
 which that prince held in England. King John, on re- 
 tiring from an unsuccessful invasion of Scotland, burnt 
 the town, which the Scots almost immediately rebuilt. 
 
 In 1'291, in the reign of Edward I. of England, the 
 Commissioners appointed to examine and report on the 
 validity of the title of the respective claimants to the 
 crown of Scotland, met at Berwick, and pursued the in- 
 vestigation which led to the decision in favour of John 
 Baliol. Edward having compelled Baliol to resign his 
 crown, took the town by storm in 1296, when a dreadful 
 carnage ensued ; and here he received the homage of 
 the Scottish nobility, in the presence of a council of the 
 whole nation, and established a court of exchequer for 
 the receipt of the revenue of the kingdom of Scotland. 
 In the following year, Wallace, laying siege to the town, 
 took it, and for a short time retained possession, but 
 was unsuccessful in his attempt upon the castle, which 
 was relieved by the arrival of a numerous army. Ed- 
 ward II., in prosecuting the war against Scotland, as- 
 sembled his army here repeatedly, and hence made 
 inroads into the enemy's territory. Robert Bruce took 
 Berwick in 1318, and having raised the walls, and 
 strengthened them with towers, kept it, notwithstanding 
 several attacks from Edward II. and Edward HI., until 
 it surrendered to the latter after the celebrated battle of 
 Hallidown Hill, within the borough, which took place 
 on the 19th of July, 1333. From Edward IV. and his 
 successors, as well as from preceding kings of Scotland, 
 including Bruce, it received several charters and pri- 
 vileges, in confirmation and enlargement of the charter 
 granted by Edward I., in which the enjoyment of the 
 Scottish laws as they existed in the time of Alexan- 
 der III. had been confirmed. After having been ex- 
 posed, during the subsequent reigns, to the continued 
 131 
 
 aggressions of the Scots and the English, Elizabeth re- 
 paired and strengthened the fortifications, and new 
 walled part of the town : the garrison which had for 
 some time been placed in it was continued till the ac- 
 cession of James to the English throne, when its im- 
 portance as a frontier town ceased. During the civil 
 war in the reign of Charles I., it was garrisoned by the 
 parliament. 
 
 The TOWN is pleasantly situated on the northern 
 bank, and near the mouth, of the river Tweed. The 
 approach to it, from the English side, is over a hand- 
 some stone bridge of fifteen arches, built in the reigns 
 of James I. and Charles I., and connecting it with 
 Tweedmouth on the south. The streets, with the ex- 
 ception of St. Marygate (usually called the High-street), 
 Castlegate, Ravensdowne, the Parade, and Hide-hill, 
 are narrow ; they are neatly paved, and the houses are 
 in general well built. The town is lighted with gas, and 
 an abundant supply of water is obtained by pipes laid 
 down to the houses from the public reservoirs, which 
 are the property of the corporation. Fuel is also plen- 
 tiful, there being several collieries on the south, and one 
 on the north, side of the river, within from two to four 
 miles of the town. A public library was established in 
 ISI'2, and a reading-room in 184'2; the theatre, a small 
 neat building, is opened at intervals, and there are as- 
 sembly-rooms that are used on public occasions. 
 
 The new fortifications, which are exceedingly strong, 
 have displaced those of more ancient date, of which only 
 a few ruins now remain ; the present works consist of 
 a rampart of earth, faced with stone, and affording au 
 agreeable promenade, much frequented by the inhabit- 
 ants. There are no outworks, with the exception of the 
 old castle, which overlooks the Tweed, and is now com- 
 pletely in ruins, and an earthen battery at the landing- 
 place below the Magdalen fields. The line of works 
 towards the river is almost straight, but to the north 
 and east are five bastions, to two of which there are 
 powder magazines : the harbour is defended by a four 
 and a six gun battery near the governor's house ; and a 
 saluting battery of twenty-two guns commands the 
 English side of the Tweed. There are five gates be- 
 longing to the circumvallation, by which entrance is 
 obtained. The barracks, which were built in 1719, 
 form a small quadrangle, neatly built of stone, and 
 afford good accommodation for 600 or 700 infantry. 
 To these was not long since attached the governor's 
 house, for officers' barracks ; but that building and the 
 ground adjoining, formerly the site of a palace of the 
 kings of Scotland, have been sold by the crown to a 
 timber-merchant, and are now occupied for the purposes 
 of his trade. 
 
 The PORT was celebrated in the time of Alexander III. 
 for the extent of its traffic in wool, hides, salmon, &c., 
 which was carried on both by native merchants and 
 by a company of Flemings settled here, the latter 
 of whom, however, perished in the conflagration of 
 their principal establishment, called the Red Hall, which 
 was set on fire at the capture of the town and castle 
 by Edward I. There is at present a considerable 
 coasting-trade, though it has somewhat declined since 
 the termination of the continental war : the exports 
 are corn, wool, salmon, cod, haddock, herrings, and 
 coal ; and the imports, timber-deals, staves, iron, hemp, 
 tallow, and bones for manure. About 800 men are 
 
 S^2
 
 B ER W 
 
 B E R W 
 
 employed in the fisher}' : the salmon and trout, of which 
 large quantities are caught, are packed in boxes with ice, 
 and sent chiefly to the London market ; great quantities 
 of lobsters, crabs, cod, haddock, and herrings are also 
 taken, and a large portion forwarded, similarly packed, 
 to the metropolis. The principal articles of manufacture, 
 exclusively of such as are connected with the shipping, 
 are damask, diaper, sacking, cotton-hosiery, carpets, hats, 
 boots, and shoes. About 200 hands are employed in 
 three iron-foundries, established within the present cen- 
 tury : steam-engines, and almost every other article, 
 are made ; the gas-light apparatus for Berwick, Perth, 
 and several other places, was manufactured here, and 
 iron-works have lately been erected at Galashiels and at 
 Jedburgh by the same proprietors. 
 
 The HARBOUR is naturally inconvenient, the greater 
 part of it being left dry at ebb- tide; it has, however, 
 been lately deepened several feet, and vessels of large 
 tonnage come up to the quay. The river is navigable 
 only to the bridge, though the tide flows for seven miles 
 beyond it : on account of the entrance being narrowed 
 by sandbanks, great impediments were occasioned to 
 the navigation till the erection, in 180S, of a stone pier on 
 the projecting rocks at the north entrance of the Tweed; 
 it is about half a mile in length, and has a lighthouse at 
 the extremity. This, together with the clearing and 
 deepening of the harbour, has materially improved the 
 facilities of navigation, and been of great importance to 
 the shipping interest of the place. On the Tweedmouth 
 shore, for a short space, near the Carr Rock, ships of 
 400 or 500 tons' burthen may ride in safety. The smacks 
 and small brigs, formerly carrying on the whole traffic 
 of the place, are now superseded by large and well-fitted 
 steam-vessels, schooners, and clipper-ships. There are 
 numerous and extensive quays and warehouses, with a 
 patent-slip for the repair of vessels. Great facility of 
 intercourse is afforded by the York, Newcastle, and Ber- 
 wick railway, the North-British railway, and the Berwick 
 and Kelso branch of the former line. The market, which 
 is well supplied with grain, is on Saturday ; and there is 
 an annual fair on the last Friday in May, for black-cattle 
 and horses : statute fairs are held on the first Saturday 
 in March, May, August, and November. 
 
 By charter of incorporation granted in the thirty- 
 eighth year of the reign of James VI., the government 
 was vested in a mayor, bailiffs, and burgesses ; and 
 there were, besides, an alderman for the year, a re- 
 corder, town-clerk, town-treasurer, four serjeants-at- 
 mace, and other officers. The control now resides in a 
 mayor, six aldermen, and eighteen councillors, together 
 composing the council, by whom a sheriff and other 
 officers are appointed. Berwick is distributed into three 
 wards, and its municipal and parliamentary boundaries 
 are the same. The mayor and late mayor are justices 
 of the peace, and tw^elve other gentlemen have been ap- 
 pointed to act under a separate commission. Berwick 
 was one of the royal burghs which, in ancient times, 
 sent representatives to the court of the four royal 
 burghs in Scotland ; and on being annexed to the king- 
 dom of England, its prescriptive usages were confirmed 
 by royal charter. It sent representatives to parliament 
 in the reign of Henry VIII., since which time it has 
 continued to return two members. The right of elec- 
 tion was formerly vested in the freemen at large, in 
 number about 1140; now, the resident freemen and 
 132 
 
 certain householders are the electors : the sheriff is 
 returning officer. The limits of the borough include the 
 townships of Tweedmouth and Spittal,on the south side 
 of the river. The corporation hold courts of quarter- 
 session for the borough, and a court of pleas every alter- 
 nate Tuesday for the recovery of debts to any amount ; 
 a court-leet, also, is held under the charter, at which six 
 petty constables are appointed. The powers of the 
 county debt-court of Berwick, established in 1847, ex- 
 tend over the registration-district of Berwick. The 
 town-hall is a spacious and handsome building, with a 
 portico of four massive columns of the Tuscan order. 
 A portion of the lower part, called the Exchange, is ap- 
 propriated to the use of the poultry and butter market ; 
 the first story of the building contains two spacious halls 
 and other apartments, in which the courts are held and 
 the public business of the corporation transacted, and the 
 upper part is used as a gaol. The whole forms a stately 
 pile of fine hewn stone, and is surmounted with a lofty 
 spire, containing a peal of eight bells, which on Sunday 
 summon the inhabitants to the parish church. 
 
 The LIVING is a vicarage, valued in the king's books 
 at £20 ; net income, £289 ; patrons and appropriators, 
 the Dean and Chapter of Durham. The church is a 
 handsome structure in the decorated English style, built 
 during the usurpation of Cromwell, and is without a 
 steeple. One of the Fishbourn lectureships is established 
 here, the service being performed in the church. There 
 are places of worship for members of the Scottish Kirk, 
 the United Presbyterian Synod, Particular Baptists, 
 Wesleyans, and Roman Catholics. A school for the 
 instruction of the sons of burgesses in English and the 
 mathematics, was founded and endowed by the corpora- 
 tion in 1798 ; to each department there is a separate 
 master, paid by the corporation, and the average number 
 of pupils is about 300. The burgesses have also the 
 patronage of a free grammar school, endowed in the 
 middle of the seventeenth century by Sir William Selby, 
 of the Moat, and other charitable persons. The Blue- 
 coat charity-school was founded in 1758, by Captain 
 Bolton, and endowed with £800, since augmented with 
 several benefactions, especially with one of £1000 by 
 Richard Cowle, who died at Dantzic, in 1819 ; the whole 
 income is £155, which is applied to educating about 150 
 boys, of whom forty are also clothed. A pauper lunatic 
 house was erected in 1813, and a dispensary was esta- 
 blished in 1814. A considerable part of the corpora- 
 tion land is allotted into " meadows" and " stints", and 
 given rent-free to the resident freemen and freemen's 
 widows, according to seniority, for their respective lives. 
 Among the most important bequests for tiie benefit of 
 the poor are, £1000 by Richard Cowle, £1000 by John 
 Browne in 1758, and £28 per annum by Sarah Foreman 
 in 1803. Some remains are still visible of the ancient 
 castle of Berwick, and of a pentagonal tower near it ; 
 also of a square fort in Magdalen fields, and some en- 
 trenchments on Ilallidown Hill. All vestiges of the 
 ancient churches and chapels of the town, of the Bene- 
 dictine nunnery said to have been founded by David, 
 King of Scotland, of the monasteries of Black, Grey, 
 White, and Trinitarian friars, and of three or four 
 hospitals, have entirely disappeared. During tlie reigns 
 of William the Lion, and of Edward I., II., and III., and 
 other Scottish and English monarchs, Berwick was a 
 place of mintage ; and several of its coins are still pre- 
 
 I
 
 B E R W 
 
 BE R W 
 
 served. There is a mineral spring close to the town, 
 which is occasionally resorted to by invalids. 
 
 BERWICKSHIRE, a maritime county, in the south- 
 east of Scotland, bounded on the north by the German 
 Ocean and the county of Haddington ; on the east and 
 north-east, by the German Ocean ; on the south, by the 
 river Tweed, which separates it from the English coun- 
 ties of Durham and Northumberland ; and on the west 
 and south-west, by the counties of Edinburgh and Ro.x- 
 burgh. It lies between 55° 36' 30" and 55° 58' 30" 
 (N. Lat.), and 1° 41' and 2° 34' (W. Long.), and is 
 about thirty-five miles in length, and twenty-two miles 
 in extreme breadth ; comprising about 4465 square miles, 
 or 285,760 acres, and "408 inhabited houses, and 381 
 uninhabited ; and containing a population of 34,438, of 
 whom 16,558 are males, and 17,880 females. The 
 county derives its name from the ancient town of Ber- 
 wick, formerly the county tovt'n, and was originally in- 
 habited by the Ottadini. After the Roman invasion it 
 formed part of the province of Valeutia ; and though 
 not the site of any station of importance, it is inter- 
 sected by several Roman roads. Subsequently to the 
 departure of the Romans from Britain, this part of the 
 country was continually exposed to the predatory in- 
 cursions of the Saxons, by whom, about the middle of 
 the sixth century, it was subdued, and annexed to the 
 kingdom of Northumbria, of which it continued to form 
 part till the year 1020, when it was ceded to Malcolm II., 
 King of Scotland, by Cospatrick, Earl of Northumber- 
 land, whom that monarch made Earl of Dunbar. 
 
 From its situation on the borders, the county was the 
 scene of frequent hostilities, and an object of continual 
 dispute between the Scots and the English. In 11*6, it 
 was surrendered by William the Lion to Henry II. of 
 England, by whom he had been made prisoner in battle, 
 as security for the performance of the treaty of Falaise, 
 on failure of which it was for ever to remain a part of 
 the kingdom of England. On payment of a ransom, it 
 was restored to the Scots by Richard I. In 1216 it 
 suffered greatly from the army of John, who, to punish 
 the barons of Northumberland for having done homage 
 to Alexander, King of Scotland, burnt the towns of Rox- 
 burgh, Mitford, and Morpeth, and laid waste nearly the 
 whole county of Northumberland. During the disputed 
 succession to the Scottish throne, after the death of 
 Alexander III., this district suffered materially from the 
 contending parties; and in 1291 the town of Berwick 
 was surrendered to Edward I. of England, who, as lord 
 paramount of Scotland, received the oaths of fealty and 
 allegiance from many of the Scottish nobility. The 
 inhabitants soon after revoking their allegiance to the 
 English crown, Edward advanced with his army to Ber- 
 wick, which he took by assault, and held a parliament 
 in the castle, in 1296, when he received the oath of 
 allegiance ; and in the year following he made Berwick 
 the metropolis of the English government in Scotland. 
 The town was restored to the Scots in 1318, but, after 
 the death of James III., was finally ceded by treaty to the 
 English, in 1482. In 1551, the town, with a district 
 adjoining, called the liberties of Berwick, was made in- 
 dependent of both kingdoms, and invested with peculiar 
 privileges. After Berwick ceased to be the county town, 
 the general business of the county was transacted at 
 Dunse or Lauder, till the year 1596, when Greenlaw was 
 selected by James VI. as the most appropriate for the 
 133 
 
 purpose ; and that arrangement was ratified by act of 
 parliament in I6OO. 
 
 The county was anciently included in the diocese of 
 St. Andrew's ; it is now almost wholly in the synod of 
 Merse and Teviotdale, and comprises several presby- 
 teries, with thirty-four parishes. Exclusively of the sea- 
 port of Berwick-upon-Tweed, which has a separate juris- 
 diction, it contains the county town of Greenlaw, the 
 royal burgh of Lauder, and the towns of Dunse, Cold- 
 stream, and Eyemouth, with the villages of Ayton, 
 Gourdou, Earlstoun, Chirnside, Coldingham, and others. 
 Under the act of the 2nd and 3rd of William IV., the 
 county returns one member to the imperial parUament. 
 Its surface varies in the different districts into which 
 the county is naturally divided, and which are the 
 Merse, Lammermoor, and Lauderdale. The Merse is a 
 level district, extending for nearly twenty miles along 
 the north bank of the Tweed, and about ten miles in 
 breadth ; it is richly fertile, and well inclosed, pleasingly 
 diversified with gentle eminences, and enriched with 
 plantations. The district of Lammermoor, nearly of 
 equal extent, and parallel with the Merse, is a hilly 
 tract, chiefly adapted for pasture. The district of 
 Lauder, to the west of the two former, is also diversified 
 with hills, affording good pasturage for sheep, principally 
 of the black-faced breed, and for a coarse breed of black- 
 cattle ; and has fertile vales of arable land, yielding 
 abundant crops. In this county the highest hills are 
 in the Lammermoor range, varying from 1500 to 1650 
 feet in height. The principal rivers are, the Tweed, 
 which forms the southern boundary of the county ; the 
 Whitadder, the Blackadder, the Leader, and the Eden, 
 which are tributaries to the Tweed ; and the river Eye, 
 which falls into the sea at Eyemouth. The coast is 
 bold and rocky, rising precipitously to a great height, 
 and is almost inaccessible, except at Eyemouth and 
 Coldingham Bay, and in some few points where there 
 are small beaches of sand or gravel near the rocks. The 
 minerals found are not of any importance : some coal 
 has been discovered in the parishes of Mordington and 
 Cockburnspath ; limestone, marl, and gypsum have been 
 quarried, but to no great extent, and freestone and 
 whinstone are abundant. The annual value of the real 
 property in the county is £254,169, of which £237,042 
 are returned for lands, £16,743 for houses, £196 for 
 fisheries, and £188 for quarries. In Berwickshire the 
 chief seats are Thirlstane Castle, Dryburgh Abbey, Mel- 
 lerstain, The Hirsel, Marchmont, Ladykirk, Blackadder, 
 Dunse Castle, Kelloe, Mertoun, Spottiswood, Ayton, 
 Dunglass, Wedderburn, Paxton, Langton, Kimniergham, 
 and Nisbet. 
 
 Great facility of intercourse is afforded by the North- 
 British railway, and its branch to Dunse. In the county 
 of Haddington, the railway passes through a country 
 of undulating surface, richly cultivated, and present- 
 ing scenery of the softer kind, with villages, hamlets, 
 and other simply rural features interspersed. On en- 
 tering Berwickshire, however, at Cockburnspath, the 
 prospect changes ; the country around is bold and 
 striking, steep hills and deep ravines appear, and the 
 scenery is of a more romantic character. From Cock- 
 burnspath to Iloundwood is a range of seven miles of 
 this interesting scenery, after which the country opens 
 out, and the eye of the traveller takes in a sweetly rural 
 landscape of five or six miles on either side, of well-
 
 BIGG 
 
 BIGG 
 
 cultivated and richly-wooded land, adorned with cottages, 
 hamlets, and gentlemen's seats. After passing Ayton the 
 line runs along the coast, at an elevation of fifty or sixty 
 feet, sometimes within two or three yards of the cliff's 
 edge. 
 
 BIGGA ISLE, in the two parishes of Delting, and 
 Mid and South Yell, county of Shetland. It is a 
 small isle, lying between the Mainland of Shetland and 
 the island of Yell, in the sound of Yell. Half of it belongs 
 to the parish of Mid and South Yell, and half to that of 
 Delting. The inhabitants consist of a few faraiUes who 
 pasture black-cattle and sheep. 
 
 BIGGAR, a parish and market-town, in the Upper 
 ward of the county of Lanark, V2 miles (S. E.) from 
 Lanark, and on the road from Dumfries to the city of 
 Edinburgh ; containing 1865 inhabitants, of whom 1395 
 are in the town. The original name of this place, as it 
 occurs in several ancient charters, is generally written 
 Biger or Bigrn. It is supposed to have been derived 
 from the nature of the ground on which the castle of 
 the Biggar family was situated (in the centre of a soft 
 morass), and to have been thence applied to the whole 
 of the parish. From the same circumstance, the castle 
 assumed the name of Boghall. The manor was granted 
 by David I. to Baldwin, a Flemish leader, whose de- 
 scendants still retain the surname of Fleming; they 
 appear to claim a remote antiquity, and the name of 
 Baldwin de Biger appears in testimony to a charter, 
 prior to the year 1160. Some accounts, chiefly tradi- 
 tional, are still retained of a battle fought at this place 
 between the English forces under Edward I., and the 
 Scots commanded byAVallace, in which the former were 
 defeated ; and though not authenticated by any his- 
 torian of acknowledged authority, the probability of the 
 event is partly strengthened bj' the frequent discovery of 
 broken armour in a field near the town ; by the name of 
 a rivulet called the Red Syke, running through the sup- 
 posed field of battle, and so named from the slaughter of 
 the day ; and by the evident remains of an encampment 
 in the immediate neighbourhood. On this occasion,* 
 Wallace is said to have gained admission into the 
 enemy's camp disguised as a dealer in provisions, and, 
 after having ascertained their numbers and order, to 
 have been pursued in his retreat to the bridge over 
 the Biggar water, when, turning on his pursuers, he put 
 the most forward of them to death, and made his escape 
 to his armj', who were encamped on the heights of 
 Tinto. A wooden bridge over the Biggar is still called 
 the "Cadger's Brig"; and on the north side of Bizzy- 
 berry are a hollow in a rock, and a spring, which are 
 called respectively Wallace's Seat and Well. The Scot- 
 tish array under Sir Simon Fraser is said to have ren- 
 dezvoused here, the night previous to the victory of 
 Roslin, in 1302 ; and Edward II., on his invasion of 
 Scotland, in 1310, spent the first week of October at this 
 place, while attempting to pass through Selkirk to Ren- 
 frew. In 1651, after Cromwell's victory at Perth, the 
 Scottish army, passing by Biggar, at that time garri- 
 soned by the English, summoned the place to surrender ; 
 and in 1715, Lockhart of Carnwath, the younger, raised 
 a troop for the service of the Pretender, which, after re- 
 maining for some time here, marched to Dumfries, and 
 joined the forces under Lord Kenmure. 
 
 The TOWN is finely situated on the Biggar water, by 
 which it is divided into two very unequal parts, the 
 134 
 
 smaller forming a beautiful and picturesque suburb, 
 communicating with the town by a neat bridge. The 
 houses in this suburb are built on the sloping declivities, 
 and on the brow, of the right bank of the rivulet, and 
 have hanging gardens extending to the water's edge ; 
 the opposite bank is crowned with venerable trees. 
 Biggar consists of one wide street, regularly built, and 
 from its situation on rising ground, commands an exten- 
 sive and varied view; most of the houses are of respectable 
 appearance, and within the last few years several new and 
 handsome houses have been erected. There is a scien- 
 tific institution, founded in the year 1S39, and having a 
 library of 220 volumes, mostly of works on science : 
 the members meet during winter once a month, when a 
 popular lecture on science is dehvered, and a discussion 
 ensues. A public library was established in I79I, which 
 contains about SOO volumes. Another was opened in 
 1800, which has a collection of more than 500; and a 
 third, exclusively a theological library, was founded in 
 ISO7, and has about 7OO volumes. Attached to the 
 parish school is a fourth library, instituted in 1828, 
 and now containing 500 volumes. A public newsroom 
 was opened in 1S2S ; but it met with little support, and 
 was consequently discontinued. 
 
 The trade consists chiefly in the sale of merchandise 
 for the supply of the parish and surrounding district, 
 and in the weaving of cloth, in which latter about 200 
 of the inhabitants are employed. A branch of the Com- 
 mercial Bank was established in 1833, and a building 
 erected for its use, which adds much to the appearance 
 of the town ; and a branch of the Western Bank of 
 Scotland has since been established. A savings' bank 
 was opened in 1832, for the accommodation of the 
 agricultural labourers and others ; there are about 
 460 depositors, and the amount of deposits is about 
 £3500. The market is on Thursday. Fairs are held at 
 Candlemas, for hiring servants ; at Midsummer, for the 
 sale of wool ; and on the last Thursday in October 
 (O. S.), for horses and black-cattle; all of which are 
 numerously attended. An act of parliament was passed 
 in 1847, authorizing the construction of a branch rail- 
 way from the great Caledonian line at Symington to 
 Biggar and Broughton. The inhabitants, in 1451, re- 
 ceived from James II. a charter erecting the town into 
 a free burgh of barony, and granting a weekly market 
 and other privileges, which grants were renewed at in- 
 tervals down to the year 1 662. 
 
 The PARISH, which borders on the county of Peebles, 
 is about six miles and a half in length, and varies very 
 greatly in breadth, being of triangular form, and com- 
 prising about 7370 acres, chiefly pasture land. Its sur- 
 face is generally hilly, though comprising a considerable 
 proportion of level ground, particularly towards the 
 south, where is a plain of large extent ; the hills are of 
 little height, and the acclivities, being gentle, afford ex- 
 cellent pasture. The principal stream is the Biggar 
 water, which rises on the north side of the parish, and 
 after a course of nearly two miles, intersects the town, 
 and flows along a fine open vale, to the river Tweed ; 
 the Candy burn rises in the north-east portion of the 
 parish, which it separates from the county of Peebles, 
 and falls after a course of three miles into the Biggar 
 water. The scenery is considerably diversified ; and the 
 approach to the town by the Carnwath road presents to 
 the view a combination of picturesque features. In this
 
 BIGG 
 
 BIRD 
 
 parish the soil is various : above 1000 acres are of a 
 clayey nature, on a substratum of clay or gravel ; be- 
 tween 2000 and 3000 are a light black loam, resting 
 upon whinstone, and the remainder sandy, and black 
 loam inclining to peat-moss. The system of agriculture is 
 greatly improved, and green crops have been introduced 
 with success ; the chief produce in grain consists of oats : 
 much attention is paid to the management of the dairy, 
 and to the improvement of live stock. The cattle are 
 mostly a cross between the native and the Ayrshire 
 breed, which latter is every day becoming more predo- 
 minant ; many sheep are pastured on the hills and 
 acclivities, and the principal stock regularly reared are 
 of the old Tweeddale breed. Great progress has been 
 made in draining and inclosing the lands. Two mills 
 for oats and barley have been erected, and there are not 
 less than twenty-five threshing-machines, one of which, 
 constructed by Mr. Watts, has the water-wheel fifty feet 
 below the level of the barn, and 120 feet distant from 
 it, the power being communicated to the machinery by 
 shafts acting on an inclined plane. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £7329. About 950 
 acres are in plantations, chiefly Scotch fir, in the 
 management of which much improvement has been 
 made by the introduction of a new method of pruning ; 
 and on the several farmsteads are numerous fine speci- 
 mens of hard-wood trees, which are better adapted to 
 the soil, and are consequently growing gradually into 
 use in the more recent plantations. Of these, the ash 
 and elm seem to thrive best ; and the beech and the plane 
 also answer well. Among the various mansions arc, 
 Edmonston, a castellated structure, pleasingly situated 
 in a secluded vale near the east end of the parish ; Big- 
 gar Park and Cambus-Wallace, both handsome resi- 
 dences in the immediate vicinity of the town ; and Car- 
 wood, a spacious mansion, lately erected, surrounded by 
 young and thriving plantations. 
 
 The origin of the parish is rather obscure ; but it 
 appears that a chaplaincy was founded here in expia- 
 tion of the murder of John, Lord Fleming, chamberlain 
 of Scotland, who was assassinated in 1524 by John 
 Tweedie of Drummelzier, his son, and other accom- 
 plices. For this purpose, an assythment in lands was 
 given to Malcolm, Lord Fleming, son of the murdered 
 lord, with £10 per annum granted in mortmain, for the 
 support of a chaplain, to pray and sing mass for the 
 soul of the deceased in the parish church of Biggar, 
 which Malcolm in 1545 made collegiate, and endowed 
 for a provost, eight canons and prebendaries, and four 
 choristers, with six aged poor men. On this occasion, 
 the church of Thankertoun, which had previously been 
 bestowed on the abbey of Kelso by one of his predeces- 
 sors, was given up to Malcolm by the monks, and 
 annexed to the collegiate church. The parish is now 
 in the presbytery of Biggar, synod of Lothian and 
 Tweeddale, and in the patronage of the family of Fle- 
 ming ; the minister's stipend is £263. 4. 7., with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per annum. Biggar 
 church, erected in 1545, was formerly an elegant and 
 venerable cruciform structure in the later English style, 
 with a tower which was not finished, as the Reform- 
 ation occurred while the building was in progress. 
 This structure, though complete in every other respect, 
 and uninjured by time, has been dreadfully mutilated. 
 The western porch, the vestry communicating with the 
 135 
 
 chancel, and having a richly groined roof, the buttresses 
 that supported the north wall of the nave, and the 
 arched gateway leading into the churchyard, though 
 perfectly entire, and beautiful specimens of architecture, 
 were all taken down about fifty or sixty years since, and 
 the materials sold for £7, to defray some parochial ex- 
 penses. At the same time, the interior of the church 
 underwent a similar lamentable devastation ; the organ- 
 gallery was removed, and the richly-groined roof of the 
 chancel, which was embellished with gilt tracery, was 
 destroyed, and replaced with lath and plaster, seemingly 
 for no better reason than to make it correspond with 
 the roofs of the aisles and nave. Latterly, the church 
 has received an addition of 120 sittings, by the erection 
 of a gallery ; it has been also newly-seated, and affords 
 considerable accommodation. There are places of wor- 
 ship for the United Presbyterian Synod and United 
 Original Seceders. The parochial school affords educa- 
 tion to about ISO scholars ; the master has a salary of 
 £34. 4. 4. per annum, about £75 fees, and a house and 
 garden. 
 
 At the western extremity of the town is a large 
 mound, more than 300 feet in circumference at the base, 
 150 feet on the summit, and thirty- six feet in height, 
 supposed to have been in ancient times a seat for the 
 administration of justice ; it appears to have been also 
 used as a beacon, and to have formed one of a chain 
 extending across the vale between the Clyde and the 
 Tweed. There are several remains of encampments, one 
 of which, about half a mile from the town, is 180 feet 
 in circumference, defended by a deep moat and double 
 rampart ; and near Candy bank is another, of oval 
 form. On the banks of Oldshields are some Druidical 
 remains consisting of four upright stones, near which 
 arrow-heads of flint have been found ; and on the lands 
 of Carwood, two Roman vessels of bronze were dis- 
 covered in a moss : one, having a handle and three 
 legs, holds about two quarts, and the other, less elegant 
 in form, about eight quarts. The venerable remains of 
 the castle of Boghall, which gave so great an interest to 
 the scenery of the beautiful vale in which they were 
 situated, have been almost demolished, for the sake of 
 the stone ; and little more is left than a small angular 
 tower, serving to mark the site. The late Dr. A. Brown, 
 Professor of Rhetoric in the University of Edinburgh, 
 and Robert Forsyth, Esq., an eminent advocate, were 
 natives of the parish; and many of the landed proprietors 
 have been eminently distinguished in the annals of their 
 country. 
 
 BILSDEAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Oldham- 
 STOCKS, county of Haddington, 2| miles (N. E.) from 
 Oldhamstocks ; containing 59 inhabitants. It is seated 
 on the sea-shore, and is chiefly inhabited by fishermen, 
 whose principal employment is taking lobsters for the 
 supply of the London market. Various other kinds of 
 fish are also caught, the most common being turbot, 
 cod, haddock, and herrings. Several boats belong to the 
 creek, carrying four men each. The Dunbar and Berwick 
 road, and the North-British railway, pass here. 
 
 BIRDSTONE, a village, in the parish of Campsie, 
 county of Stirling, 1 mile (N.) from Kirkintilloch; 
 containing 100 inhabitants. It lies east of the road 
 from Kirkintilloch to Campsie, and a little west of a 
 small stream that falls into the Kelvin water on the 
 confines of the county.
 
 B 1 RN 
 
 BI RS 
 
 BIRGHAM, a village, in the parish of Eccles, 
 county of Berwick, 2^ miles (W.) from Coldstream ; 
 containing '241 inhabitants. This is a small ancient 
 village, seated on the north bank of the Tweed, opposite 
 to Carham in Northumberland ; and the road from 
 London to Edinburgh by way of Kelso, and that from 
 Kelso to Berwick, j)ass through the place. It is noted 
 for several events connected with history, among which 
 was the meeting, in 1291, of the twelve competitors for 
 the Scottish throne, with the commissioners of Ed- 
 ward I. of England, to represent their claims, acknow- 
 ledging his paramount authority over Scotland. One 
 of two buryiug-places in the parish is situated here. — 
 See EccLEs. 
 
 BIRNIE, a parish, in the county of Elgin, 3 miles 
 (S.) from Elgin ; containing 407 inhabitants. This place 
 is said by some to have been the site of the first cathe- 
 dral of the diocese of Moray ; and it is probable that 
 Simeon de Tonei, one of the bishops, was buried here, 
 in 1184. The parish approaches in figure to an oblong, 
 extending about seven miles in length and one and a 
 half in mean breadth, and containing nearly 8000 acres, 
 of which about 2000 are under tillage, 304 in wood, and 
 the remainder waste. It is separated from the parish 
 of Knockando, on the south, by the junction of the 
 parishes of Dallas and Rothes, and is bounded on all 
 the other sides by the parish of Elgin. It lies on the 
 north side of the high ground that rises between the 
 Spey river and the flat of Moray. The surface is irre- 
 gular and abrupt, is marked with several ravines and 
 high hills covered with heath, and has in general a 
 bleak and rugged appearance. The lands are intersected 
 with the rivulets Lennock, Barden, and Rashcrook, 
 which flow into the Lossie, a stream containing abun- 
 dance of common trout. The arable soil is in general 
 of a gravelly or sandy kind, occasionally clayey, and by 
 the sides of the Lossie and of the rivulets it is loamy; 
 parts are of a mossy or rooory nature. All kinds of 
 grain are produced, as well as potatoes and turnips, 
 with a small quantity of flax. The cattle, which have 
 been lately much improved, are usually a cross between 
 the low-country cows of Moray and West Highland 
 bulls ; the sheep are chiefly Cheviots, and the horses, 
 though small, are active, and well adapted for plough- 
 ing the light shallow land of which the parish mainly 
 consists. The improved system of agriculture is fol- 
 lowed, and very considerable advances have recently 
 been made. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £1249- The chief rocks in the district are 
 sandstone and gneiss, with a small proportion of slate. 
 
 Ecclesiastically, the parish is within the bounds of 
 the presbytery of Elgin, synod of Moray. The patron- 
 age belongs to the Earl of Jloray, and the minister has 
 a stipend of £156. 8. 4., a portion of which is received 
 from the exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe of about 
 eight acres of good land. The church is a very ancient 
 structure, repaired in 1817, with accommodation for 
 250 persons. It contains a fine Saxon arch, separating 
 the choir from the body of the edifice ; also a stone 
 baptistery, and an old bell composed of silver and 
 copper, of an oblong shape, which tradition asserts to 
 have been made at Rome, and consecrated by the pope. 
 There is a parochial school, the master of which has 
 a salary of £26, with a house and garden, and about 
 £4 fees. The poor have the benefit of a bequest pro- 
 136 
 
 ducing about £3 per annum. About a mile east from 
 the church, on the side of the road, is a stone called the 
 " Bible Stone", having the figure of a book distinctly 
 engraven on it : and in the corner of a field once called 
 Castlehill, the foundations of what is supposed to have 
 been the ancient episcopal palace were dug up about half 
 a century ago. 
 
 BIRSAY and HARRAY, a parish, in the county 
 of Orkney ; containing 2406 inhabitants, of whom 
 1634 are in Birsay, and "72 in Harray. These two 
 ancient parishes, which were united under the Earls 
 of Orkney, originally constituted a province or district 
 called " Bergisherard", signifying in the Norwegian 
 language lands appropriated to the diversion of hunting ; 
 and previously to the rise of Kirkwall, here was the 
 residence of the Earls, and the Bishops of Orkney. 
 There are stiU considerable remains of the episcopal 
 palace, occupying a beautiful site near the sea. By 
 whom it was originally built, is not distinctly known ; 
 but numerous additions were made to it from time to 
 time by the Sinclairs, who were styled indifiFerently 
 Princes and Counts of Orkney. It was subsequently 
 enlarged and improved by Robert Stuart, brother of 
 Mary, Queen of Scots ; and above the principal entrance 
 was a stone bearing an inscription to that effect, with 
 armorial bearings, and the motto Sic Fuit, Est, et Erit ; 
 which stone passed into the possession of the Earl of 
 Morton, to whom the lands were sold, and from whom 
 they were afterwards purchased by Sir Lawrence Dun- 
 das, ancestor of the Earl of Zetland, the present pro- 
 prietor. 
 
 The parish is about eleven miles in extreme length, 
 and eight miles in extreme breadth. It is bounded on 
 the north and west by the sea ; on the north and east, 
 by the parishes of Evie, Rendal, and Firth ; and on the 
 south and west, by the parish of Sandwick, and Loch 
 Stenness. Towards the west the surface is for some 
 distance level, but towards the east more elevated, rising 
 into hills of considerable height. It is diversified with 
 several lakes of great beauty, abounding with trout and 
 other fresh-water fish, and frequented by numerous 
 kinds of aquatic fowl; and the lands are intersected by 
 various rivulets and smaller burns, which, for want of 
 bridges, interrupt the communication. The soil is gene- 
 rally fertile, though varying in different parts of the 
 district : that of the lands called the barony of Birsay 
 is a mixture of clay and sand, producing luxuriant crops 
 of oats and barley ; in other parts a deep black loam 
 prevails, producing grain of good quality, and also pota- 
 toes and turnips. Sea-weed, of which abundance is 
 found on the coast, is used for manure ; and the system 
 of agriculture, though well adapted to the present state 
 of the farms, might, under a different tenure, be very 
 greatly improved. The substrata are principally lime- 
 stone and clay-slate, the latter of which is quarried for 
 pavements and roofing ; building-stone is also found 
 here, and in some parts of the district marble and ala- 
 baster have been discovered. The manufacture of straw- 
 plat is carried on extensively, affording employment to 
 nearly 450 of the females ; the males are employed in 
 agriculture and in the fisheries. There are twenty boats 
 belonging to Birsay, which during the season are en- 
 gaged in the cod and lobster fishery ; and five are 
 employed in the herring-fisheries at Sfronsay and Wick, 
 whence they generally return with remunerating sue-
 
 B I RS 
 
 Bins 
 
 cess. The coast is rocky and precipitous, and the want 
 of a convenient harbour is unfavourable to the extension 
 of the fisheries of the place. Fairs for cattle and horses 
 are held annually. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Cairston, synod of Orkney. 
 The minister's stipend is £'218. 6. 8., including an 
 allowance of £«. 6. 8. for communion elements ; with a 
 manse situated at Birsay, and two glebes valued toge- 
 ther at £'21 per annum: jiatron, the Earl of Zetland. 
 Birsay church is an ancient building, enlarged in 1*60, 
 and containing ,565 sittings ; the church of Harray, a 
 neat plain building erected in 1836, contains 400 sittings. 
 There are places of worship for members of the Free 
 Church, United Original Seceders, and Independents. 
 The parochial school of Birsay is well attended ; the 
 master has a salary of £26, with a dwelling-house and 
 garden. A school at Harray is supported by the Gene- 
 ral Assembly, who pay the teacher a salary of £25, with 
 a house and garden, and other perquisites. There is a 
 parochial library, containing nearly 180 volumes, chiefly 
 on religious subjects. About half a mile from the site 
 of the episcopal palace is the brough of Birsay, a por- 
 tion of high land at the north-western extremity of the 
 parish, formed into an island by the action of the sea, 
 and to which access by land is obtained only at low 
 water. From some remains of walls, there appears to 
 have been an ancient fortress on the spot, though when 
 or by whom erected is not known ; a chapel dedicated 
 to St. Peter was subsequently erected on the site, of 
 which the only remains are part of a wall and one of 
 the windows. There are also remains of ancient Picts' 
 houses, and upright stones, in various parts of the 
 parish. 
 
 BIRSE, a parish, in the district of Kincardine 
 O'Neil, county of Aberdeen, 2| miles (E. S. E.) from 
 Aboyne ; containing 1295 inhabitants. This place was 
 formerly called Press, a word of Gaelic origin, signifying 
 a wood or thicket, and most probably used in reference 
 to the extensive forest and woods in the district. The 
 parish is situated at the south-eastern extremity of the 
 county, and approaches in form to a square, varying in 
 length from eight to ten miles, and in breadth from six 
 to nine or ten miles. It comprises upwards of 40,000 
 acres, of which about 3360 are cultivated, nearly 4000 
 in wood and plantations, and the remainder wet and 
 rocky, a large part of which is too rugged to be brought 
 under the plough. The surface consists of hills and 
 mountains, with three valleys stretching eastward. The 
 valley on the south is the largest ; and though narrow, 
 bleak, and wild at its western extremity, where it is 
 called the forest of Birse, about five miles further it 
 begins to expand, and continues to improve in its 
 scenery from this point to its termination in Kincardine- 
 shire, at the union of the Feugh with the Dee, near the 
 village of Banchory. The former of these two rivers 
 waters the valley, and much adorns the rich and beauti- 
 ful scenery in the midst of which the stream takes its 
 departure from the parish. The valley called Glcn- 
 Chatt is smaller than the former, and is watered by the 
 Cattie burn. The third strath forms a portion of the 
 vale of the Dec, but is divided into two parts by the 
 burn of Birse : it is ornamented in its centre by the 
 church and manse. The Grampians constitute a marked 
 barrier on the southern limit of the parish, and one part 
 Vol. I.— 137 
 
 of the range, called Mount Geanach, rises there to a 
 very conspicuous height, and gives to the locality a wild, 
 and in some parts a romantic, appearance. On the 
 south-eastern btnmdary runs the river Aven, a tributary 
 of the Feugh ; while the Dee flows along the northern 
 boundary, and unites with the peculiar features of that 
 portion of the parish to render its scenery most attrac- 
 tive. The moors abound with grouse and a great variety 
 of wild-fowl, and the rivers and mountain streams with 
 trout ; the Dee has also salmon, grilse, eel, and pike, 
 and the lovers of angling find here every facility for 
 their favourite amusement. 
 
 The soil is a light loam, in many parts rather gravelly, 
 and takes its leading character from its mixtures of de- 
 composed granite and sand, which are sometimes clayey. 
 Oats and barley are the usual grain cultivated ; and 
 potatoes and turnips, with grass for pasture and hay, 
 also form a considerable part of the produce. The sheep 
 are the black-faced ; the cattle are much mixed, and in 
 general small and of inferior quality, but the kind which 
 most prevails is the Aberdeenshire polled and horned. 
 The state of husbandry is backward, compared with the 
 better cultivated districts of the south, but has been 
 improved within the last twenty or thirty years, the 
 rotation of crops having been introduced, with a few- 
 other modern usages. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £4106. The rocks comprise granite, a 
 blue stone called heathen stone, and limestone, of which 
 last there are two or three quarries in operation, the 
 produce being generally used for agricultural purposes ; 
 the granite is found in large blocks, scattered on or 
 near the surface, and is used for building, without the 
 trouble and expense of quarrying. A fine specimen of 
 red porphyry is found in the river Dee at the Bridge of 
 Potarch. 
 
 The mansion of Fiuzean, in the south-east of the 
 parish, and in the vale of the river Feugh, is an ancient 
 structure, built in the form of three sides of a square. 
 That of Ballogie, situated in the valley of Glen-Chatt, is 
 a neat and comfortable residence, partly ancient and 
 partly modern, and, like the former, surrounded with 
 well laid-out grounds and thriving plantations. The 
 male population are chiefly engaged in husbandry, and 
 many of the females during winter in knitting worsted 
 stockings, for which most of the wool produced here is 
 purchased. A suspension-bridge over the Dee, on the 
 west, was built by the Earl of Aboyne in 1828, and 
 rebuilt in 1830 in consequence of its destruction by 
 flood ; a communication is thus opened with the north, 
 and another bridge over the Dee, called the Bridge of 
 Potarch, built in 1813, forms part of the road from 
 Brechin to Huntly and Inverness, over the Cairn o' 
 IMount and Grampians. The turnpike-road on the 
 south side of the Dee, from Aberdeen to Braemar, also 
 opens up an important means of intercourse. Four 
 fairs are held at Bridge of Potarch in April, May, Octo- 
 ber, and November, for cattle, sheep, horses, coarse linen, 
 sacking, &c.; that in October being the principal. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Kincardine O'Neil, synod of Aberdeen, and in the pa- 
 tronage of the Crown : the minister's stipend is £158. 
 7. 4., a portion of which is received from the exchequer; 
 with a manse, and a glebe of four acres. The church, 
 inconveniently situated in the north-western part of the 
 parish, is a neat substantial edifice, erected in 1779, and 
 
 T
 
 B L A C 
 
 B L AC 
 
 capable of accommodating between 500 and 600 persons. 
 There is a Roman Catholic chapel near Ballogie. The 
 parochial school affords instruction in the usual branches; 
 the master has a salary of £28, with a house, £6. 10. 
 fees, and an allowance from the Dick bequest. Another 
 school is supported by money derived from the fund of 
 Dr. Gilbert Ramsay, who was rector of Christ-church, 
 Barbadoes, and left £500 for the endowment of a free 
 school in this, his native parish, £500 to the poor, and 
 a sum for the erection of a bridge over the Feugh. A 
 religious library was established in 1829, and a savings' 
 bank in 1 837. The chief relic of antiquity is a cas- 
 tellated ruin called "the Forest", said to have been 
 erected by Bishop Gordon of Aberdeen for a hunting 
 seat. 
 
 BISHOPMILL, a village, in the parish of New 
 Spynie, county of Elgin ; containing 755 inhabitants. 
 It is a suburb of Elgin, from which town it is distant 
 about half a mile, and stands on the north side of the 
 Lossie, the former course of which river was nearer the 
 town than the present course. The village is included 
 within the parliamentary limits of the borough of Elgin, 
 the cross of Bishopniill being the extreme northern 
 boundary. — See New Spynie. 
 
 BISHOPBRIDGE, a hamlet, in the parish of Gad- 
 der, Lower ward of the county of Lanark ; containing 
 213 inhabitants. It is situated in the western part of 
 the parish, and on the road from Glasgow to Kirkintil- 
 loch. An infant and sewing school was established here 
 by Mrs. Stirling of Cadder, and is supported jointly by 
 that lady and Mr. Stirling, who pay the mistress a 
 salary of £30. 
 
 BISHOPTON, a village, in the parish of Erskine, 
 Upper ward of the county of Renfrew ; containing 315 
 inhabitants. It is a modern village, situated on the 
 south side of the Firth of Clyde, a short distance north 
 of the road from Port-Glasgow to Paisley ; and a post- 
 office under the latter town has been established, having 
 three daily deliveries. 
 
 BLACKBURN, a village, chiefly in the parish of 
 Livingstone, and partly in that of Whitburn, county 
 of Linlithgow, 7 miles (W. byS.) from Mid-Calder ; 
 containing 443 inhabitants. This village is pleasantly 
 situated on the river from which it derives its name, 
 and on the road from Glasgow to Edinburgh. The in- 
 habitants are partly engaged in agricultural pursuits, 
 and partly in the cotton manufacture, for which there is 
 an estabhshment affording employment to about 120 
 persons. A branch office has been established here, 
 under the post-office at Whitburn. In 1846 an act of 
 parliament was passed for the construction of a railway 
 from Airdrie to Bathgate, with a branch to Whitburn 
 and Blackburn. Near the village is a quarry of lake- 
 stone ; it affords excellent stone for laying ovens, and 
 the produce is sent to all parts of the country. Sub- 
 scriptions have been opened for the erection of a church ; 
 in the mean time, public worship takes place in the vil- 
 lage schoolroom. There is a meeting-house for Inde- 
 pendents. Blackburn House is a handsome mansion. 
 
 BLACKFORD, a parish, in the county of Perth, 
 4 miles (S. VV.) from Auchterarder ; containing, with 
 part of the late quoad sacra parish of Ardoeb. I7S2 in- 
 habitants, of whom 547 are in the village. This place 
 probably derives its name from the ancient vford Jiord, a 
 way by land or water ; being equidistant from the towns 
 138 
 
 of Perth and Stirling, between which it formed the 
 principal line of communication. The parish is bounded 
 on the north by the river Earn, and on the south by the 
 river Devon, and is about ten miles in length and five in 
 breadth. Its surface is varied with level and elevated 
 grounds. The Ochil hills, whose sloping acclivities 
 afford e.\eel!ent pasturage for sheep, intersect the parish 
 towards the south ; and the low lands are fertilized by 
 several small rivers, which add much to the beauty of 
 the landscape. Of these, the river Machany, rising in 
 the high lands of the parish of Muthil, after flowing 
 through this parish falls into the Earn at Kinkell. The 
 Ruthven, which has its source at Gleneagles, in the 
 parish, is but a small stream, pursuing its course through 
 the glen of Kincardine for nearly three miles, when, 
 taking an eastern direction, it flows through the parish 
 of Auchterarder into the river Earn. Another stream, 
 the Allen, which also rises at Gleneagles, takes a western 
 course through the parish of Dunblane, and falls into 
 the river Forth. The soil, especially in the northern 
 part of the parish, is rich, and in good cultivation ; the 
 system of agriculture is improved, and considerable 
 portions of waste land have been reclaimed. Much at- 
 tention has also been paid to the growth of plantations, 
 which have been extensively formed on the wide moor 
 of TuUibardine, and in other parts. The principal trees 
 of older growth are oak and birch : at TuUibardine are 
 still remaining a few trees of a plantation of thorn, raised 
 by a shipwright, in commemoration of the building of a 
 large ship for James IV., in which he had been em- 
 ployed. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 amounts to £10,700. 
 
 The village is inhabited principally by persons en- 
 gaged in weaving, and the manufacture of a coarse kind 
 of woollen-cloth affords employment to a considerable 
 number ; a factory has been erected, in which machinery 
 has been introduced, and from seventy to eighty per- 
 sons are regularly employed, exclusively of many who 
 work at their own homes. In the vicinity of the village 
 is a station of the Scottish Central railway. Two fairs 
 are held annually ; but from the proximity of Auch- 
 terarder and other market-towns, they are not much at- 
 tended. The parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery 
 of Auchterarder and synod of Perth and Stirling ; the 
 minister's stipend is about £200, with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £18 per annum. Blackford church, 
 built in 1738, and lately repaired, is adapted for a con- 
 gregation of 500 persons. The parochial school affords 
 a liberal course of instruction ; the master has a salary 
 of £34. 4. 4., with fees, and a good dwelling-house and 
 garden. There are several remains of ancient military 
 works, connected probably with the Roman camp at 
 Ardoch, to which station they are supposed to have been 
 out- works ; also numerous cairns and tumuli in different 
 parts of the parish. Some remains likewise exist of the 
 castles of Kincardine and Ogilvy, the walls of which are 
 of great thickness ; and at Gleneagles and TuUibardine 
 are the remains of chapels. The lands of TuUibardine 
 give the title of Marquess to the Duke of Atholl. 
 
 BLACKNESS, a village, in the parish of Carriden, 
 county of Linlithgow, 3 miles (E.) from Borrowstoun- 
 ness ; containing 107 inhabitants. This place was 
 formerly the sea-port of Linhthgow, and the residence of 
 numerous merchants, who carried on an extensive trade 
 with Holland, Bremen, Hamburgh, and Dantzic, in 
 
 y^
 
 B L A C 
 
 BL A 1 
 
 which they employed thirty-six ships of large burthen. 
 It is now an inconsiderable hamlet, distinguished only 
 by its royal castle, which is one of the four Scottish 
 fortresses kept in repair according to the articles of the 
 union of the two kingdoms. The harbour and quay 
 are in a ruinous state : the custom-house has been con- 
 verted into lodgings for the few individuals who, during 
 the summer, resort to this deserted spot for the benefit 
 of bathing ; and the only business carried on is the oc- 
 casional shipping of bricks and tiles made at Brickfield, 
 in the immediate vicinity, and the landing of lime and 
 manure. Stake-nets for salmon have been laid down 
 from the point of Blackness. 
 
 The castle, which is still entire, is situated on a pro- 
 montory on the south shore of the Firth of Forth, near 
 the influx of the Black burn, and at a small distance 
 from the village. It is supposed to occupy the site of 
 a Roman station on the wall of Antonine, which, accord- 
 ing to most writers, terminated at this place ; but the 
 date of the present structure is not distinctly known. 
 In 14S1, the castle, with eight ships at that time in the 
 harbour, was burnt by the English fleet; and in 1488, 
 the nobles who had rebelled against James III. held a 
 conference with that monarch here, which was called 
 the "Pacification of Blackness". In 1542, Cardinal 
 Beaton was imprisoned in the castle by the Earl of 
 Arran, then regent, but he was soon liberated, through 
 the influence of the clergy ; and after the battle of 
 Pinkie, in 1547, Lord Clinton, the admiral of the En- 
 glish fleet, took three and burnt seven of the vessels 
 lying in the harbour. The castle was garrisoned by the 
 French forces under the command of General D'Esse 
 in 1548, and also under the regency of Mary of Guise ; 
 but in 1560 it was taken by the sheriff of Linlithgow. 
 In 15/1, it was garrisoned by Claude Hamilton, a zea- 
 lous adherent to the interests of Mary, Queen of Scots ; 
 and by him it was held in her name till 1 573, when it 
 was delivered up to the Earl of Morton, then regent. 
 During the progress of the Reformation, and the con- 
 tests that arose between the advocates of Presbytery and 
 Episcopacy, the castle was frequently a place of confine- 
 ment for the non-conforming clergy ; and in the latter 
 part of the eighteenth and earlier part of the nineteenth 
 century, it was chiefly occupied by French prisoners of 
 war. The Earls of Linlithgow were hereditary constables 
 of the castle till 1715, when that office was forfeited on 
 the attainder of James the sixth earl, for his participa- 
 tion in the Earl of Mar's rebellion. There are a gover- 
 nor and a lieutenant-governor attached to the castle, 
 neither of whom is resident ; and the garrison till lately 
 consisted of two gunners, a Serjeant, two corporals, and 
 fifteen privates ; but at present the only inmates are an 
 inferior officer and his family. The buildings consist 
 of a principal tower, with ramparts commanding the en- 
 trance, and a court-yard, and have accommodation for 
 100 men. 
 
 BLACKRIDGE, for a time a quoad sacra parish, 
 chiefly in the parish of Torphichen, county of Lin- 
 lithgow, 3 miles (W.) from Bathgate ; containing 900 
 inhabitants, of whom 94 are in the village. This parish 
 comprised portions of the civil parishes of Torphichen, 
 Shotts, Bathgate, Slamannan, and New Monkland. The 
 village lies at the west end of the first-named parish, near 
 the river Avon ; and the inhabitants are employed in 
 agriculture, and in the mines and quarries in the neigh- 
 139 
 
 bourhood. The church, situated in the village, was 
 erected by subscription, in 1838, and is a neat structure 
 containing 400 sittings. One of the two parochial 
 schools in Torphichen is fixed here ; the master has a 
 salary of £10 from the lands of Blackridge, and 100 
 marks Scots from heritors, with a house and garden, 
 and the fees average about £14. Here is also one of the 
 two parochial libraries. 
 
 BLADNOCH, a village, in the parish and county of 
 Wigtown, 1 mile (S.) from Wigtown; containing 215 
 inhabitants. This village is pleasantly situated on the 
 north bank of the river Bladnoch, over which is a bridge, 
 connecting it with the parish of Kirkinner, on the south. 
 An extensive whisky distillery has been established, in 
 which about twenty persons are constantly employed, 
 and which annually consumes about 16,000 bushels of 
 barley. There is a small salmon-fishery carried on here, 
 and various kinds of white fish are taken in the bay. 
 
 BLAIR- ATHOLL, a parish, in the county of Perth, 
 20 miles (N. by W.) from Dunkeld ; containing, with 
 part of Tenandry quoad sacra parish, 2231 inhabitants. 
 This place, the name of which in the Gaelic language 
 signifies "the plain of AthoU ", comprises the four an- 
 cient parishes of Blair, Lude, Kilmaveonaig, and Strowan, 
 united into one parish in the early part of the seventeenth 
 century. In the reign of James V., that monarch, with 
 his mother, and the pope's legate, were entertained at 
 Blair Castle with great hospitality by the Earl of Atholl, 
 who, for their diversion, accompanied them in a cele- 
 brated hunt on the north side of the mountain Beinn- 
 ghlo. The castle afterwards became the headquarters 
 of Viscount Dundee, in the memorable campaign of 
 Killiecrankie, the battle taking place on the fields of 
 Runrory, on the north side of Girnag mountain. It was, 
 indeed, frequently occupied as an important military 
 station, not only during the times of feudal warfare, but 
 also in the rebellion of 1745 and 1746, when it was garri- 
 soned with a force of 300 men under the command of Sir 
 Andrew Agnew, whom the Duke of Cumberland, on his 
 arrival at Perth, had despatched to take up his quarters 
 here, and so cut ofi' all communication between the 
 northern and southern parts of the country. In order 
 to gain possession of this station, Lord George Murray, 
 accompanied by several officers of the Highland army, 
 and with a force of 100 men, was sent to surprise the 
 castle, which, from its scanty supply of provisions, he 
 attempted to reduce by famine. With this view, having 
 made prisoners of all the detached out-posts, he took up 
 his head-quarters in the village, and closely blockaded 
 the castle. But after having reduced the garrison to the 
 last extremity, he suddenly raised the blockade, and re- 
 turned to join the Young Pretender's army at Inverness ; 
 and on the following day, the garrison were relieved by 
 the Earl of Crawford, and received the thanks of the 
 Duke of Cumberland for their gallant defence. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the north by the Grampian 
 hills, and is about thirty miles in length and eighteen 
 miles in average breadth, comprising 105,000 acres of 
 hill pasture, 3000 of arable land under cultivation, and 
 2500 in wood and plantations. The surface is finely 
 varied with hills and valleys. On both sides of the river 
 Garry is an extensive and fertile plain, constituting the 
 vale of Garry, and extending from the pass of Killie- 
 crankie to Strowan, terminating in hills whose slopes arc 
 under cultivation, and the summits clothed with heather. 
 
 T2
 
 B L A I 
 
 In the Grampian range are several lofty mountains, of 
 which Beinn-ghlo, Beinn-mheadhonaidh, Beinn-chait, 
 and Beinn-deirg are the principal; the mountain Beinn- 
 ghlo, which stands upon a base many miles in circum- 
 ference, presents to view four detached summits, one 
 having an altitude of 37'20 feet above the level of the sea, 
 and the others being little inferior in height. The 
 surface is also diversified with lakes, one of the chief of 
 which is Loch Garry, near the boundary of the counties 
 of Perth and Inverness ; it is inclosed on all sides by 
 hills of lofty elevation, and is about six miles in cir- 
 cumference, abounding with trout of excellent quality. 
 Loch Tummel is a picturesque sheet of water, four miles 
 in length and nearly a mile in breadth, tastefully em- 
 bellished with an island of artificial formation, on which 
 are the ruins of a castle, and inclosed with banks richly 
 cultivated, interspersed with small hamlets. The castle 
 was built in the time of Robert Bruce, by Duncan the 
 Gross, founder of the clan Robertson. This lake, also, 
 abounds with pike and trout of the largest size. The 
 river Garry issues from the lake of that name, and after 
 a course of nearly thirty miles, in which it receives the 
 streams of the Erichkie, Bruar, and Tilt, falls into the 
 Tummel at the south-eastern extremity of the parish ; 
 the Tummel has its source in Loch Tummel, and urges 
 its rapid and impetuous course but for a short way 
 through the parish. The river Tilt, from the loch of 
 that name, on the summit of the Grampian range, 
 pursues a course of sixteen miles, and flows into the 
 Garry at Blair, displaying in its progress a succession of 
 beautifully picturesque scenery. Almost all the rivers 
 form interesting cascades. The falls of the Garry, ob- 
 structed in its course by shelving rocks, are peculiarly 
 interesting ; and those of the Tummel are magnificently 
 grand, from the vast body of water which is precipitated 
 from rocks clothed to their summits with stately birch- 
 trees. The Bruar, also, descending from a height of 
 some hundred feet, forms a succession of cataracts, 
 rendered still more striking from the beauty of the sur- 
 rounding scenery. 
 
 The SOIL is various : in the valleys, and on the slopes 
 of the hills, a light loam or a gravelly soil prevails, and 
 in the more elevated lauds the mossy soil of the Gram- 
 pian range. The chief crops are different kinds of grain, 
 and turnips, for which latter the soil is well adapted, and 
 of which considerable quantities are raised. The farm- 
 houses are generally well built ; and considerable im- 
 provements have been made in husbandry, under the 
 auspices of the AthoU Club, which distributes annual 
 prizes for the promotion of agriculture and the breed of 
 stock. The cattle are usually of the black Highland 
 breed, to the rearing of which great attention is paid ; 
 about I'iOO milch-cows are regularly pastured, and 
 30,000 sheep are annually fed, all of the black-faced 
 breed. AthoU "forest", formerly enjoying many privi- 
 leges, is partly in the parish, and about 1 '2,000 head of 
 red deer are found within its limits. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £11,847. The natural 
 woods are principally oak, ash, birch, alder, and aspen ; 
 and the plantations, which are very extensive, consist of 
 Scotch firs, spruce, and larch, with lime, elm, and plane 
 trees, of which there are some very fine specimens in the 
 park of Blair. The substratum is chiefly limestone, 
 which forms part of the great vein extending from near 
 Callender to Braemar, and is quarried for agricultural 
 140 
 
 B L AI 
 
 and other purposes, but not insufficient quantity for the 
 lands, in consequence of the scarcity of fuel for burning 
 it. Marble, also, of various colours is abundant, especi- 
 ally a vein of a green colour, much esteemed for mantel- 
 pieces. 
 
 Blair Castle, already noticed, the baronial seat of the 
 Murray family, Dukes of AthoU, is a spacious structure, 
 supposed to have been erected by John Cumin, of Strath- 
 bogie, who became Earl of AthoU in right of his wife. 
 In 1750 the building was reduced by taking down two 
 stories, and converted into a family mansion. It con- 
 tains a handsome suite of state apartments, but its cas- 
 tellated appearance has been lost by the removal of its 
 turrets. The house is inclosed in a very extensive park, 
 embellished with ancient timber and thriving planta- 
 tions ; and the grounds, which are laid out with great 
 taste, command a rich variety of scenery. Her Majesty 
 and Prince Albert, on their second visit to Scotland, 
 spent three weeks at this place, in September, 1844 ; 
 the castle was prepared by Lord Glenlyon (now Duke of 
 AthoU) for Her Majesty's reception, and he introduced to 
 the royal notice the most remarkable natural features of 
 the vicinity. Lude House, a spacious modern mansion, 
 occupies an elevated site, and forms an interesting object 
 in the scenery of the Garry. Auchleeks is also a hand- 
 some modern mansion, pleasantly situated. A post-office 
 has been established, which has a daily delivery ; and 
 fairs are held at Blair-AthoU on the 2nd of February for 
 general traffic, and the third AVednesday in May for 
 horses and cattle ; at Tilt Bridge, on the 25th of June 
 and the '20th of August (O. S.), for cattle ; and at Trina- 
 four, on the third Tuesday in March (O. S.), for horses, 
 and the Wednesday in October before the tryst of Fal- 
 kirk, for cattle. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Dun- 
 keld, synod of Perth and Stirling, and in the patronage 
 of the Duke of AthoU ; the minister's stipend is about 
 £'200, with a manse, and the glebe is valued at £150 per 
 annum. The parochial church is a handsome and sub- 
 stantial edifice of modern erection, adapted for 650 per- 
 sons, and the churchyard is spacious. A church was 
 erected in the Strowan district, in 18'29, for a congrega- 
 tion of 450 persons ; and divine service is performed on 
 two consecutive Sundays at Blair-AthoU, and every third 
 Sunday at Strowan. The old church of Kilmaveonaig 
 was rebuilt in 1791, and appropriated as a place of wor- 
 ship by the Episcopalians. There is also a meeting-house 
 for Baptists, The parochial school affords education to 
 about a hundred scholars ; the master has a salary of 
 £34. 4. 4., with about £30 fees, and a house and garden. 
 There are vestiges of an old religious establishment on 
 the banks of the Tilt, called Cill Aindreas, consisting 
 chiefly of sepulchral remains ; and in various parts of 
 the parish are upright stones, the remnants of Druidical 
 circles, near some of which are traces of ancient ceme- 
 teries. The walls of the church of Lude are also still 
 remaining. 
 
 BLAIR-LOGIE, a village, in the parish of Logie, 
 county of Perth, '2 miles (N. N. E.) from Stirling ; con- 
 taining 1'24 inhabitants. This village, situated at the 
 foot of the Ochil hills, is celebrated for its beauty and 
 cleanliness, and the salubrity of its air, and is much 
 visited by invalids for its goat's-whey. It contains a 
 small library belonging to the parish, and there is a 
 place of worship connected with the United Presbyterian 
 
 i
 
 B L A I 
 
 B L A I 
 
 Synod. On the heights is the Castle of Blair-Logie, now 
 occupied by a farmer. 
 
 BLAIRBURN, a village, in the parish of Culross, 
 county of Perth ; containing 85 inhabitants. 
 
 BLAIRDAFF, Aberdeen.— See Garioch. 
 
 BLAIRGOWRIE, a burgh, inarket-town, and pa- 
 rish, in the county of Perth, .58 miles (N. by \V.) from 
 Edinburgh ; containing about 3*00 inhabitants, of whom 
 about '2600 are in the town. Blair is a term of doubtful 
 etymology, by some supposed to be derived from a 
 Gaelic root signifying a mossy locality, and by others 
 thought to come from a word denoting the scene of a 
 battle or of war. Gowrie was the ancient denomination 
 of the district in which the parish is situated, and has 
 been used as an affix to distinguish it from several other 
 places of the name of Blair. The town stands not far 
 from the eastern boundary of the county, bordering on 
 Forfarshire, and on a pleasant eminence on the western 
 bank of the river Ericht, forming the first step of the 
 acclivity of the hill of Blair. From its secluded and re- 
 mote neighbourhood, it has been free from the collisions 
 of the great political and religious tumults which have 
 been felt so frequently and extensively throughout the 
 country, the only historical recollection noted of this 
 kind being the passage of the celebrated Montrose 
 through the place, in one of his hostile descents into the 
 valley of Strathmore. But what, at the commencement 
 of the present century, was a small, quiet, and inconsi- 
 derable village, has since grown into a bustling manufac- 
 turing and market town ; and not only the inhabitants 
 of this spot, but those of the parish generally, have ex- 
 changed their rural for a commercial character, the pea- 
 santry having given place to artisans, partly through the 
 breaking up of the cottar system by the consolidation of 
 small farms, but chiefly through the extensive introduc- 
 tion of manufactures. About forty or fifty years since, 
 the village consisted of small, unsightly thatched houses, 
 collected in the vicinity of the church. It now contains 
 some good streets, which are well lighted with gas, 
 supplied by a joint-stock company established in 1834 ; 
 and its new and attractive character has for some time 
 been gradually drawing, from the other parts of the pa- 
 rish, a considerable portion of the people to take up their 
 residence here. Blairgowrie is approached by several 
 good roads from different quarters. The most consider- 
 able of these is the great north road from Perth to Fort- 
 George, which enters the parish at the southern boundary, 
 about two miles distant, and crosses the Ericht a little 
 way from the town, by the bridge of Blairgowrie. This 
 road has lately been made a turnpike as far as the bridge 
 of Cally, six miles north of the town. 
 
 The river Ericht, forming the eastern boundary of the 
 parish for ten miles, is a lively and interesting feature in 
 the strikingly beautiful scenery which is commanded by 
 the well-cultivated hill of Blair ; it has its course through 
 diversified and romantic combinations of woods and 
 rocks, and falls into the Isla at Cupar-Grange. Within 
 half a mile of the town is a small cascade or salmon-leap, 
 partly artificial, called the Keath. The hill of Blair, 
 immediately behind the town, is crowned by the church, 
 and skirted by a deep well-wooded ravine stretching 
 down abruptly nearly to the river. From the churchyard 
 a view of the first order is obtained, embracing the whole 
 valley of Strathmore, in the northern portion of which 
 part of the parish lies, and terminated on the east by the 
 141 
 
 Hunter hill of Glammis, and on the south by the pictu- 
 resque chain of the Sidlaws. Near the town are the 
 mansions of Newton and Ardblair, large structures in 
 the castellated style, the former commanding beautiful 
 and extensive prospects over Strathmore, and being 
 itself seen as a conspicuous object from several parts ; 
 and not far distant is Blairgowrie House, a large edifice, 
 situated on the low grounds to the south of the town, 
 the whole of the vicinity of which partakes of the rich 
 and varied scenery characteristic of the lower or southern 
 division of the parish, the northern district exhibiting the 
 features of a liighland locality. 
 
 The spinning-wheel, formerly so much in use here, has 
 been entirely superseded by machinery ; and there are 
 at present five mills in operation, worked by water-power, 
 and employing about 'iOO hands in the spinning of flax 
 and tow into yarn. The flax used is imported into Dun- 
 dee from the Baltic, and after being spun, is either taken 
 to the former place for sale, or disposed of to manufac- 
 turers in the neighbourhood, and at Alyth and Cupar- 
 Angus. The value of flax annually consumed at three 
 mills near the town is from £'20,000 to £'26,000 per an- 
 num, and the value of yarn spun at the same mills, from 
 £33,000 to £36,000. About 350 persons are occupied 
 in weaving yarn by hand-looms into cloth of different 
 fabrics, consisting of fine dowlas and drill, and especially 
 Osnaburghs and coarse sheetings : these are generally 
 sold at Dundee, but sometimes shipped, on the part of 
 the manufacturer, direct to North and South America and 
 France. Another branch of trade carried on is that of 
 salmon-fishing, which, however, is in a very low state, the 
 rental for the whole course of the Ericht from the Keath 
 to the boundary of the parish being only £'21. 1'2. per 
 annum. This change from its former extent, which was 
 very considerable, is owing partly to the circumstance of 
 there being fisheries lower down, on the Tay and Isla, 
 and partly to the erection of the numerous mills on the 
 river, which in summer drain off nearly the whole of the 
 water. A general post-office is established in the town. 
 Besides the road from Perth to Fort-George, already 
 noticed, there is ^ road from Blairgowrie to Cupar- 
 Angus, made turnpike in 183'2, which quits the parish 
 about two miles south of the town ; and the line of road 
 from Kirriemuir, Forfar, and other places, to Dunkeld, 
 passes through the town, in crossing the parish from 
 east to west. In 1846 an act was obtained for the con- 
 struction of a branch to Blairgowrie of the Perth and 
 Forfar railway. A market, which is well attended, is held 
 on Wednesday, in alternate weeks, during winter and 
 spring, for cattle and grain ; and there are animal fairs 
 in the town on the third Wednesday in March ; the 
 '26th of May, if it fall on Wednesday, if not, the first 
 Wednesday after ; the '23rd July ; the first Wednesday 
 in Nov. i the '2'2nd Nov., or first Tuesday after j and 
 the Wednesday before Falkirk tryst. There are two 
 branch banks, and a savings' bank in connexion with the 
 Perth National-Security Savings' Bank : the deposits in 
 the savings' bank amount to upwards of £3000. 
 
 Blairgowrie was erected into a burgh of barony by 
 charter from Charles I., dated 9th July, 1634, in favour 
 of George Drummond, then proprietor of the estate. In 
 the year 1809, the town was created a free burgh of 
 barony by a charter from Colonel McPherson, the supe- 
 rior, and the burgesses were emi)0wered to elect a bailie 
 and four councillors for the management of the affairs
 
 B L AI 
 
 B L A I 
 
 of the burgh. The bailie, and two of the councillors, 
 vacate their office every two years ; and their places are 
 filled up by the burgesses. The police is in accordance 
 with the general police act, and under the control of the 
 chief magistrate and four commissioners, the latter being 
 annually elected by the £10 householders ; but the pro- 
 visions of the act respecting watching and paving have 
 not been adopted, the householders being still bound by 
 their charter to take the watching by turns, themselves 
 personally, or to provide substitutes. There are two 
 commodious and well-ventilated cells in the lower story of 
 the town-house, used as a prison, for the punishment of 
 offenders within the jurisdiction of the burgh magistrate. 
 The town is one of the seats of the quarterly sheriff- 
 court, under the Small-Debt act, and a polling-place for 
 the county parliamentary elections. 
 
 The PARISH consists of a principal portion, about 
 seven miles long and one mile and- a half in average 
 breadth, and of two detached parts. One of these, lying 
 north-west of the large division, and separated by 
 branches of the parishes of Kiuloch and Bendochy, 
 contains a tract on each side of the river Ardle (consist- 
 ing of the estates of Blackcraig, Wester-Cally, and 
 Whitehouse), and part of the district of the Forest of 
 Cluny; covering altogether about four square miles. The 
 other detached part, called Creuchies, situated to the 
 north-east, and separated by the parish of Rattray, con- 
 taius about two square miles. The total number of acres 
 in the parish is estimated at about 16,000 or 17,000, of 
 which about 10,000 are or have been cultivated, 5000 
 are waste and pasture, and the remainder wood and 
 plantations, comprising alder, birch, hazel, mountain-ash, 
 larch to a considerable extent, and Scotch fir. Blair- 
 gowrie parish comprehends two divisions, the highland 
 and the lowland, separated from each other by a branch of 
 the Grampian range ; the former is hilly, and constitutes 
 the northern boundary of the vale of Strathmore, while 
 the surface of the latter, which belongs to that vale, is 
 tolerably equal, and replete with that beautiful and 
 richly-diversified scenery for which the whole sweep of 
 country is so highly celebrated. The Ardle and Black- 
 water streams, partly skirting the northern division, 
 unite near the bridge of Cally, and form the principal 
 river, the Ericht. This river, in the vicinity of Craighall, 
 passes through some of the most wildly romantic por- 
 tions of the district, the beauties of which supplied the 
 author of Waverley with many of the principal features 
 in the description of Tully-Veolan. The parish is partly 
 bounded on the south by the Lunan ; and the Lornty, 
 after flowing for some distance, falls into the Ericht 
 about half a mile above the town. The streams abound 
 with trout : pike, perch, and eels are plentiful in all the 
 lochs, which are six in number ; and the loch of Stor- 
 mont is frequented in summer by swarms of sea-gulls, 
 that build among the reeds and rushes, and furnish 
 large quantities of eggs. 
 
 The southern and most cultivated division of the 
 parish, stretching southward from the hill of Blair, for 
 four miles, to the middle of the valley of Strathmore, 
 exhibits great diversity of soil, comprising stiff clay, 
 moss, rich loam near the town, and alluvial earth ; the 
 last, on the bank of the river, being the most fertile. In 
 this division is the muir of Blair, a tract comprehending 
 about 1000 acres, chiefly covered with thick plantations 
 of Scotch fir, beyond which, to the south, the soil, though 
 142 
 
 thin and light, is mostly under cultivation. All kinds 
 of grain and green crops are raised, and a considerable 
 revenue is derived from pastures and the thinning of 
 woods. The sheep kept here are not bred in the parish, 
 but are purchased in autumn, and fattened with turnips 
 eaten olf the ground in winter, for sale in the follow- 
 ing spring. Much improvement has taken place in the 
 stock of cattle, by crossing the native cows with the 
 short-horned bulls, and large numbers are fed for the 
 Glasgow and Falkirk markets. The husbandry is of a 
 superior kind, all the modern usages having been intro- 
 duced, and draining and inclosing have been practised 
 to a great extent. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £9291. The rocks consist chiefly of grey- 
 wacke, greenstone, and sandstone ; the last, which is a 
 coarse red conglomerate, is extensively quarried in the 
 vicinity of the town, and there are several other quar- 
 ries in different parts, including one of day-slate, not 
 now in operation. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes, the parish is in the pres- 
 bytery of Meigle, synod of Angus and Meams, and in 
 the alternate patronage of William McPherson, Esq., of 
 Blairgowrie, and the Trustees of the late James Blair 
 Oliphant, Esq., of Gask and Ardblair. The minister's 
 stipend averages £222. IS. ; with a manse, rebuilt in 
 1S3S, with the offices, at a cost of upwards of £500 ; and 
 a glebe comprising 9i acres, valued at £20 per annum. 
 The church, built in 1824, on the site of the old edifice, 
 on an eminence close to the town, contains 1000 sittings. 
 A chapel situated in Brown's-street was p\irchased for 
 the sum of £400, of the Burgher congregation who had 
 before used it, and was opened in 1837 in connexion 
 with the Established Church. The money for the pur- 
 chase, with the exception of £100 granted by the 
 Church-extension Committee, was raised by subscription. 
 No minister is now appointed. There are a Roman 
 Catholic chapel, and places of worship for members of 
 the Free Church and Independents ; and a handsome 
 edifice has been erected in the early English style, con- 
 sisting of a nave and chancel, for the use of a congrega- 
 tion of Episcopalians ; it is named St. Catharine's, and 
 was founded at the expense of the Rev. John Marshall, 
 who ornamented the chancel with an elegant window of 
 stained glass. Attached to it is a library containing 
 many works of science and general literature, for the 
 use of all denominations. The parochial school affords 
 instruction in the usual branches ; the master has a 
 salary of £34. 4., and about £60 fees. The late Mr. 
 George Barty, tobacconist at Perth, and a native of this 
 place, who died in 1S3S, bequeathed £1400 for the edu- 
 cation of poor children belonging to this parish, and the 
 parishes of Rattray, Bendochy, and Kinloch, in the 
 parochial school of Blairgowrie. An elegant new shoool- 
 room was built in 1842, at an expense of upwards of 
 £S00. The antiquities comprise the ruins of the castle 
 of Glasclune, formerly the property of the Blairs, and of 
 that of Drumlochy, the seat of the Herons ; the build- 
 ings are in close vicinity to each other, and between the 
 possessors a feud once raged, ending in the ruin of the 
 latter. There are several ancient cairns. A chalybeate 
 spring called the " Heugh well", situated in a cliff about 
 a mile from the town, is found of great benefit in 
 cutaneous and dyspeptic complaints. After the royal 
 visit to Ireland, Her Majesty, accompanied by Prince 
 Albert and her suite, passed through the town of Blair-
 
 B L A N 
 
 B L A N 
 
 gowrie on the 15th August, 1S49, on her way from 
 Glasgow to Balmoral in Aberdeenshire. 
 
 BLAIRINGONE, for a time a quoad sacra parish, 
 chiefly in the parish of Fossoway and Tulliebole, 
 county of Perth ; containing 5*4 inhabitants, of whom 
 210 are in New, and 79 'n Olfl. Blairingone, 10 miles 
 (W.) from Kinross. This parish, the name of which 
 implies " the Field of Spears ", included portions of the 
 parishes of Muckart, Dollar, and Clackmannan ; it was 
 bounded on the north by the river Devon, and inter- 
 sected by the road between Alloa and Kinross. Coal is 
 abundant, and several mines are in operation ; ironstone 
 of very superior quality is also wrought, and some 
 veins of an ore supposed to contain a considerable pro- 
 portion of sulphur have lately been discovered. In the 
 parish are several handsome residences, among which 
 are, Devonshaw, a modern building in the Elizabethan 
 style, beautifully situated on the south bank of the 
 Devon ; and Arndean, also a modern mansion, of the 
 same style. The village is in the south-western part of 
 the parish, and is chiefly inhabited by the work-people 
 of the collieries. Blairingone was ecclesiastically in 
 the presbytery of Auchterarder, synod of Perth and 
 Stirling ; the minister was appointed by the heads of 
 families : the church is a neat plain building, erected 
 by subscription, aided by a grant from the General 
 Assembly's Church-extension Committee. There is a 
 congregation of members of the Free Church, who 
 assemble in a schoolroom of handsome design, erected 
 in 1843 : the school is for all denominations, and 
 connected with the Free Church is a library. On the 
 banks of the Devon is a remarkable spring issuing from 
 among strata of ironstone, and used medicinally. — See 
 Fossoway. 
 
 BLAIRMORE, a hamlet, in the parish of Kenmore, 
 county of Perth ; containing 21 inhabitants. 
 
 BLANTYRE, a parish, in the Middle ward of the 
 county of Lanark ; including the villages of Auchin- 
 raith, Auchintiber, Barnhill, Blantyre, Blantyre- Works, 
 Hunthill, and Stonefield ; and containing 3047 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom 1464 are in the village of Blantyre-Works, 
 and 264 in that of Blantyre, or Kirkton,3 miles (N. W.) 
 from Hamilton, and 8:^ (.S. S. E.) from Glasgow. The 
 lands formerly belonged to the Dunbars of Enteckin, 
 in which family they remained till the Reformation, 
 when they were purchased by Walter Stewart, son of 
 Lord Minto, treasurer of Scotland, upon whom, on the 
 suppression of monastic establishments, the ancient 
 priory of this place was bestowed by James VL, who 
 also created him Lord Blantyre. The priory is said to 
 have been founded by Alexander IL, as a cell to the 
 abbey of Jedburgh, or, according to Spottiswoode, of 
 Holyrood House ; and Walter, who was prior in the 
 fourteenth century, was one of the commissioners ap- 
 pointed to negotiate for the ransom of David Bruce, the 
 Scottish king, who had been made prisoner by the 
 English, in the battle of Durham, in 1346. The remains 
 of the priory, which arc very inconsiderable, are situated 
 on the summit of a high rock on the bank of the river 
 Clyde, opposite to the ruins of Bothwell Castle. Little 
 more is left than one of the vaults, which is still entire, 
 with two gables, and a portion of the outer walls. The 
 buildings were of red granite ; and in combination with 
 the castle, the ruins form an interesting feature in the 
 scenery. 
 
 143 
 
 The PARISH extends for six miles in length, from 
 north to south, and varies greatly in breadth, not ave- 
 raging more than one mile in the whole. It comprises 
 4170 acres, of which, excepting 200 acres of moss land, 
 and plantations, all is arable. The principal rivers 
 are, the Clyde, which enters the parish at a short dis- 
 tance below Bothwell bridge, and forms a boundary 
 between this place and the parish of Botliwell for about 
 three miles, flowing majestically between lofty banks 
 richly clothed with wood ; and the Calder, which enters 
 the parish near Rottenburn, and after forming several 
 picturesque falls in its course along the western boun- 
 dary, flows into the river Clyde near Daldowie. Other 
 streams are, the Redburn, which has its source in the 
 lands of Park farm, and joins the Clyde near Bothwell 
 bridge ; and two other rivulets, one rising in the lands 
 of Shott, and one at Newmain, which also fall into the 
 river Clyde. Salmon are taken in abundance near the 
 mill-dam of Blantyre. In many parts the scenery is 
 exceedingly beautiful ; the parish is generally well 
 wooded, and diversified with gently undulating emi- 
 nences and fertile dales. The soil is various, being in 
 some parts a fine rich loam, in others a strong clay, and 
 in others sand, with some portions of moss ; the system 
 of agriculture is improved, and good crops of various 
 kinds of grain are raised. Great improvement has been 
 made in draining the lands, and a considerable tract 
 called Blantyre moor, formerly a common, has been 
 subdivided, and brought into cultivation : the farm 
 houses and buildings are of a superior order. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £8280. 
 Peat for fuel is cut on Edge Moss ; and coal, the veins 
 of which are very thin, is worked at Calderside and 
 Rottenburn. Limestone of a quality well adapted for 
 building, and for agricultural purposes, is wrought in 
 the southern part of the parish. Ironstone, also, is 
 abundant, and at Black- Craig, on the borders of the 
 parish, not less than seventeen different seams are to be 
 seen, superincumbent on each other : the ironstone is 
 worked in the parish of Kilbride, where are the openings 
 of the mines, but the strata lie chiefly in this parish. 
 
 The principal village is situated on an eminence over- 
 looking the river Clyde, and in the midst of a beautiful 
 country, embellished with timber of venerable and 
 stately growth. It appears to have attained its present 
 importance and extent, from the introduction of the 
 cotton manufacture by Messrs. Dale and Monteith, who 
 in 1785 erected a mill for the spinning of cotton-yarn, 
 and, in the year 1791, another for the making of mule 
 twist. In 1813 Messrs. Monteith and Company erected 
 a weaving factory, in which the number of looms has 
 since that time increased from 450 to nearly 600 ; and 
 around these works, giving profitable employment to a 
 large number of the population, the present village is 
 erected. In the two spinning-mills, which are both 
 worked by water-power, are 30,000 spindles, affording 
 occupation to about 500 persons ; and in the weaving 
 establishment, the works of which are driven partly 
 by water-power and partly by steam, are 600 power- 
 looms, in the management of which more than 300 
 persons arc regularly employed. In connexion with 
 these works is an establishment for dyeing cotton-yarn 
 with the Turkey red. Tiie total number of persons 
 employed in all the departments is nearly 1000, of 
 whom more than 500 arc females. The houses are
 
 BLEB 
 
 BOH A 
 
 comfortable and neatly built, and the village is watched 
 and cleansed by persons paid by the company, who have 
 also built a public washing-house, and appropriated a 
 large bleach green, on the banks of the Clyde, for the 
 use of the inhabitants, who are supplied with hard and 
 soft water for domestic purposes by force-pumps at the 
 factory. A library has been some years established, 
 which contains an extensive collection of useful volumes. 
 Great facility of intercourse is afforded by the lines of 
 the Caledonian railway company. 
 
 Blantyre is ecclesiastically within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Hamilton, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and 
 in the patronage of Lord Blantyre ; the minister's sti- 
 pend is about £184, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £16 per annum. The parish church was erected in 
 1793, and will only hold about 300 persons. There is 
 a chapel at the Blantyre Mills, erected by the company 
 for the accommodation of the work-people employed 
 there, and containing sittings for 400 persons ; the 
 minister's stipend is paid, one-half by the proprietors 
 of the works, and the other half from the seat rents. 
 A place of worship has been erected for members of the 
 Free Church. The parochial school affords a liberal 
 education; the salary of the master is £26, with £19 
 fees. There is also a school for the children of the 
 work-people at the mills, to which purpose the chapel 
 is applied during the week ; the master is appointed by 
 the company, who give him a house and garden rent 
 free, and a salary of £20. 
 
 Ancient urns have been at various times discovered in 
 several parts of the parish ; some of these were inclosed 
 in a kind of kistvaeu, covered by heaps of loose stones, 
 and contained ashes, with remnants of half-burnt bones 
 scattered round them. Within the last few years a 
 .<=tone coffin was discovered, containing an urn of baked 
 earth, in which was a skull with the teeth nearly entire 
 and in good preservation ; and fragments of six larger 
 and more richly ornamented urns were found in ano- 
 ther part of the same field, which is now called " Archers 
 Croft". Stone cofl'ins have also been found at Lawhill 
 and Greenhall, and other places situated within the limits 
 of the parish. At Calderside is a large hill called the 
 Camp- Know, of conical form, 600 feet in circumference 
 at the base, and surrounded by a moat ; and near it is a 
 kind of subterraneous cavern of flags. At Park farm is 
 a fine .spring, which has long been in high repute for 
 the cure of scorbutic affections and diseases of the e)'e ; 
 It is strongly impregnated with sulphur, combined with 
 muriate and sulphate of lime, and was formerly much 
 resorted to by invalids from Glasgow and its neighbour- 
 hood. There are also various mineral springs on the 
 banks of the river Calder. The late John Miller, Esq., 
 professor of law in the university of Glasgow, resided 
 for some years at Milheugh, in the parish, and was 
 buried in the churchyard. 
 
 BLEBO-CRAIGS, a village, in the parish of Kem- 
 B.\CK, district of St. Andrews, county of Fife, i a mile 
 (S. E.) from Kemback; containing '234 inhabitants. It 
 lies a short distance to the north of the road from Ceres 
 to St. Andrew's. On the estate of Blebo, a vein of lead- 
 ore was discovered in 1722, and was worked for some 
 time, but relinquished in consequence of the expense. 
 In the vicinity are extensive mills. Blebo House, the 
 property of the Bethune family, is an elegant mansion, 
 surrounded by fine plantations. 
 144 
 
 BLUE-ROW, a hamlet, in the parish of New Kil- 
 PATRiCK, county of Dumbarton, containing 53 inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 BLUEVALE, a village, in the former ecclesiastical 
 district of Camlachie, Barony parish, county of 
 Lanark. This is a suburb of the city of Glasgow, and 
 one of the divisions that were ecclesiastically separated 
 from Barony parish. It consists chiefly of small cottages, 
 irregularly built, and occupied by hantl-loom weavers and 
 day-labourers. There are five schools connected with 
 this place and the other divisions of Camlachie, Keppoch 
 Hill, and Ladywell, which are attended by about 300 
 children. 
 
 BOARHILLS, a village, in the parish and district 
 of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 4 miles (S. E.) from 
 St. Andrew's ; containing 1 .55 inhabitants. It is situated 
 on the eastern coast, and southern point of St. Andrew's 
 bay. A little northward of it is Mount Budda rock. 
 
 BODDAM, a village, in the parish of Peterhead, 
 district of Buchan, county of Aberdeen, 3 miles (S.) 
 from Peterhead ; containing 526 inhabitants. This 
 place anciently belonged to a branch of the Keith family, 
 who had a strong baronial castle, situated on a rock 
 overhanging the sea, and of which there are still consi- 
 derable remains. The village is situated on the eastern 
 coast, near the headland of Buchanness, and is in- 
 habited chiefly by persons employed in the fisheries, 
 which are carried 011 to a great extent. In the had- 
 dock-fishery, commencing in March, and continuing till 
 July, twenty-two boats, of four men and a boy each, 
 are engaged ; and during the season, each boat takes 
 generally about 30,000 fish, which are cured, and dried 
 upon the rocks, and sell at from £3 to £4 per thousand. 
 The herring-fishery begins in July, and continues till 
 September : it employs twenty-three large boats, with 
 crews of six men each ; and the quantity of fish taken 
 during the season averages, when sold, about £100 for 
 each boat. There are twelve boats employed during the 
 winter months in the cod and white fishery ; the fish are 
 cod, ling, skate, and turbot, and from 1200 to ISOO are 
 taken by each boat, and produce from £30 to £40. The 
 fish cured here obtain a decided preference in the market, 
 especially the haddocks, which, from being dried on the 
 rocks, are perfectly free from sand. The village has been 
 extended and improved ; and a harbour of larger capacity 
 has been constructed, which has a greater depth of water 
 than that of Peterhead, and the approach of which is ren- 
 dered safe by the lighthouse on Buchanness. 
 
 BOGHEAD, a village, in the parish of Lesmahagow, 
 Upper ward of the county of Lanark ; containing 198 
 inhabitants. It is in the northern part of the parish, 
 and on the read between Lesmahagow and Strathaven. 
 
 BOHARM, a parish, partly in the county of Elgin, 
 but chiefly in that of Banff, 6 miles (W.) from Keith; 
 containing 1261 inhabitants. The original word Bucha- 
 rin, or Bocharin, from which Boharm has been formed, 
 is said to signify " the bow or bend about the hill". It 
 was correctly applied to this locality on account of the 
 cultivated part consisting chiefly of a valley, stretching 
 in a circular form around the north, east, and south 
 sides of the mountain of Benagen, which rises abruptly 
 from the Spey river, the boundary line of the district on 
 the west. There was formerly a church on the estate 
 of Arndilly, called the church of Artendol ; and it ap- 
 pears that, about the year 1215, one of the family of
 
 B O H A 
 
 B O H A 
 
 Freskyn de Moravia, who had large estates here, granted 
 to the cathedral of" Moray " the church of Arteudol, 
 with all its pertinents, excepting the corn-tithes of the 
 two Davochs, which lay next to his castle of Bucharin ". 
 It is therefore conjectured that the old parish was named 
 Artendol, and that, upon the church there falling into 
 ruin, the chapel of the castle of Bucharin was used in 
 its stead as the parochial church, in consequence of 
 which the parish was called Bucharin. The parish was 
 augmented in l/SS, to the extent of about one-third, 
 by the annexation of part of the suppressed parish of 
 Dundurcus, lying on the east of the river. The whole 
 measures about twelve miles in extreme length, and four 
 at its greatest breadth, comprising 4739 acres under 
 tillage, besides a large extent of wood, mountain-pasture, 
 and waste. The lofty eminence of Benagen, situated 
 about the middle of the parish, and attaining an eleva- 
 tion of 1500 feet above the sea, occupies so large a por- 
 tion of the surface as to render the valley at its base 
 comparatively narrow. At its summit level the valley is 
 about 400 feet above the sea, and from this height 
 gradually descends towards each extremity, when it 
 abruptly falls into the valley of the Spey. The sides of 
 the vale are cultivated for a considerable distance up- 
 wards, as well as the bed ; and the southern and eastern 
 sides of the mountain, for nearly half way up, have been 
 brought under tillage. 
 
 The Fiddich, a stream of some magnitude, flowing 
 between beautifully-wooded banks, forms a confluence 
 with the Spey near the bridge of Craigellachie, from 
 which point to the distance of a mile above the village 
 of Fochabers, the latter river separates this parish from 
 Rothes. Both these streams are subject to violent 
 floodings, and sometimes, by the sudden and irresistible 
 impulse of their waters, have destroyed the bridges, 
 tenements, crops, and almost every thing in their way. 
 A very ancient bridge, chiefly of wood, formerly crossed 
 the Spey near the influx of the Orchil, and was sup- 
 posed to have been constructed by the Romans under 
 Severus ; but no remains of it have been visible for 
 many years : the passage was afterwards accomplished 
 by a ferry-boat. An establishment called the Hospital 
 of St. Nicholas stood near this bridge, on the Boharm 
 side of the river, having been founded in the beginning 
 of the thirteenth century by Muriel de Pollock, heiress 
 of Rothes, and dedicated to God, the Virgin, and St. 
 Nicholas, for the reception of poor passengers. Andrew, 
 Bishop of Moray, granted to the hospital the church of 
 Rothes with its pertinents, and Alexander II. in 1232 
 endowed it with a chaplaincy : it had pretty extensive 
 estates also in the neighbourhood. It is supposed that 
 the bridge was kept in repair by this house, and that, 
 about the time of the Reformation, the structure either 
 fell to decay, or was destroyed by a flood, and, having 
 lost its means of support, was not renewed. The ruins 
 of the hospital were removed, and a new bridge built, a 
 few years since, at a cost of £3500, on the suspension 
 principle, viith a span of 235 feet. The Orchil, or burn 
 of Mullen, formed by a collection of the waters of the 
 lower part of the district where a valley from Keith opens 
 into the circular valley, runs rapidly through a rocky and 
 romantic channel into the Spey at Boat of Bridge ; and 
 the Aldernie conveys the waters of the upper district to 
 the Fiddich. These streams abound with trout, which, 
 as well as grilse and salmon, are also found in the Spey. 
 Vol. I.— 145 
 
 The soil in some parts is gravelly, and in others 
 sandy, but is more frequently clayey, and very retentive 
 of moisture. All sorts of grain are raised, the wheat in 
 small quantity, and also most kinds of grasses and green 
 crops. Much attention is paid to turnips, the growth 
 of which has increased of late years, and large applica- 
 tions of bone-manure have been made with great suc- 
 cess. Lint also is cultivated, but oats of excellent 
 quality are the staple article. Lime is extensively used 
 for agricultural purposes, and draining and the improve- 
 ment of waste land have been carried on with spirit : 
 good inclosures and farm-buildings are still much 
 needed, though in several parts the latter have been 
 greatly improved. The black-cattle, which are small in 
 size, are chiefly the Highland and the Aberdeenshire, 
 and the sheep are the Leicester and the Linton, the 
 former kept on the lower, and the latter on the higher, 
 grounds : there are some sheep also of the large English 
 breed, valued for the wool. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £3764. 
 
 Gneiss is the prevailing rock in the southern portion 
 of the district. Talc-slate is found in the principal 
 valley, and up to the summit of the hills, traversed by 
 veins of quartz, and by a strip of primitive limestone 
 originating in the great limestone formation of Banff- 
 shire. This last is wrought for burning into lime, and 
 also for building, being well adapted for the latter pur- 
 pose on account of a siliceous mixture. The rocks in 
 the valley of the Spey are gneiss and quartz, in some 
 places overlaid by a large deposit of red clay and gravel, 
 spreading itself extensively in several directions. Boul- 
 ders of granite and hornblende are numerous, and sup- 
 ply an excellent material for buildings. Mica-slate is 
 also found in large beds. The woods and plantations 
 form a prominent feature in the scenery, and comprise 
 almost every description of trees grown in the country. 
 In the south-west corner of the parish, on the bank of 
 the Spey, is the mansion-house of JnidiUy, occupying 
 an eminence once the site of the church, the remains of 
 which were removed to make way for the present resi- 
 dence, and the ancient glebe now forms part of the lawn 
 before the mansion. It is situated in a recess of 
 Benagen, nearly surrounded by wood, with the river in 
 front, and commanding fine views. The only other 
 mansion is Auchlunkurt, a spacious residence in the 
 midst of plantations, and enlivened by a pleasing 
 brook ; it has a colonnade and portico in the Grecian 
 style, and a conservatory, attached to the southern por- 
 tion, communicating with the drawing-room. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Aberlour, synod of Moray, and in the 
 patronage of the Crown and the Earl of Fife; the 
 minister's stipend is above £200, with a manse, built in 
 18U, and a glebe valued at £22. 10. per annum. The 
 church and manse stand nearly in the centre of the pa- 
 rish, upon the boundary line of the old parish and the 
 annexed portion of Dundurcus ; the church was built in 
 1793, and accommodates 700 persons. The parochial, 
 or grammar, school affords instruction in the usual 
 branches ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with a 
 house, £17 fees, and a portion of the Dick bequest. 
 Boharm has also a parochial library, and a savings' 
 bank instituted in 1821. The castle to Bucharin, now 
 Galval, supposed to have been built by the Freskyns, is 
 the chief antiquity, forming a fine ruin, situated on an 
 
 U
 
 BOLE 
 
 BOLT 
 
 eminence between the brooks Aldernie and Fiddich : 
 silver spoons were found under the buildings some years 
 since ; and lately, from beneath a stone in the floor of 
 the oratory, a silver ring was taken up, on which was a 
 small shield, with two martial figures. James Ferguson, 
 the celebrated astronomer, received the rudiments of his 
 education here ; he died in the year 1/66. 
 
 BOINDIE, county of Banff. — See Boyxdie. 
 
 BOLE, a hamlet, in the parish of Rescobie, county 
 of Forfar ; containing 17 inhabitants. 
 
 BOLESKINE and ABERTARFF, a parish, in the 
 county of Inverness ; containing the village and post- 
 town of Fort-Augustus, 131 miles (N. W.) from Edin- 
 burgh ; and comprising 187 6 inhabitants. The name 
 Boleskine has usually been traced to the Gaelic term 
 Bail-os-cionn, which signifies " the town hanging above 
 the loch" (Loch Ness). Another derivation, however, 
 has been assigned to it, by which it is identified with 
 the compound term Boile-eas-ceann ; ceann signifying 
 "height" or "summit", eas "a cataract", and boile 
 "fury", which, taken together, would mean "the sum- 
 mit of the furious cascade ", viz., the fall of Foyers. 
 The whole of the parish, previously to the fifteenth 
 century, was the property of the Lovat family ; and at 
 a still earlier period, it is supposed to have been pos- 
 sessed by the Cummins, a very powerful and warhke 
 clan ; Fort-Augustus being still called, in the common 
 language of the district, Kdichuiman, or "the burial- 
 place of the Cummins". Strath-herric, a district of 
 Boleskine, was anciently possessed by the clan Grant, 
 the time and cause of whose departure are uncertain. 
 Before the year 1545, the parish is said to have been 
 occupied by the tribes of Mc Gruer, Mc Imesheir, and 
 Mc Tavish, retainers of the Lovat family, and the prin- 
 cipal of whom, having accompanied Lord Lovat in his 
 expedition to settle the heir of the Clanronald family in 
 his father's estate, were, in their return from the He- 
 brides, intercepted at the east end of Loch Lochy, by 
 the clan Mc Donald, and almost extirpated. The nu- 
 merous offspring descended from the Erasers killed in 
 that engagement, in process of time spread throughout 
 the parish ; and Foyers is now the seat of the repre- 
 sentative of this ancient and powerful clan. 
 
 The p.ARisH is twenty-one miles long, and about ten 
 broad, and its surface is considerably diversified through- 
 out. The district of Strath-herric consists of flat lands, 
 with a few undulations, near which is a great extent of 
 hilly ground, and in the eastern quarter is a range of 
 high hills, called Monadhliath : tracts of low land are 
 to be seen in other parts, suited to the growth of oats, 
 barley, and potatoes. Loch Ness, which is twenty-four 
 miles long and about one mile and a half broad, bounds 
 the parish on the north for fourteen miles. This lake, in 
 the middle, is from 106 to 130 fathoms deep, and near the 
 sides from sixty-five to seventy-five ; and, from its great 
 depth, never freezes : the ground around rises to a consi- 
 derable height, and is ornamented with a variety of trees. 
 There are about twelve other lakes in the parish. In 
 Abertarff are two streams that fall into Loch Ness, the 
 Oich and the Tarff, which latter gives name to the dis- 
 trict of Abertarff ; and there are two celebrated cascades 
 in the parish, formed by the same river, within less than 
 half a mile of each other, and known as the Fall of 
 Foyers, the grandeur and magnificence of which, in- 
 creased by the sublimity of the surrounding scenery, can 
 146 
 
 be adequately conceived by those only who have beheld 
 the spectacle. 
 
 The soil exhibits all the varieties of gravel, clay, till, 
 loam, and peat-moss, and is generally of a poor or mid- 
 dling character. The lands are mainly devoted to the 
 rearing of sheep, of which about 30,000 are kept, all of 
 the Cheviot breed ; and the wool is sold chiefly to wool- 
 staplers in the north of England. The greater part of 
 the district is without inclosures, but good farm-build- 
 ings have been erected on all the principal lands, where, 
 also, good fences are to be seen. The rocks comprise 
 blue and red granite, which exist in large quantities, 
 and limestone is also plentiful, but not much wrought. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £5887. 
 There is a salmon-fishery, which lets for £30 a year. 
 Annual fairs are held at Fort-Augustus, in the begin- 
 ning of June and end of September, chiefly for the sale 
 of cattle, but at which, also, some traffic is carried on 
 by pedlers and others ; and occasional trysts for black- 
 cattle take place in spring and autumn. The only turn- 
 pike-road is the old military road, which runs for about 
 twenty-two miles on the south side of the parish, and is 
 kept in good order. There are three district roads, in 
 indifferent repair ; and the Caledonian canal, which 
 passes through the parish, opens up a communication by 
 means of steam-packets and other vessels. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Abertarff and synod of 
 Glenelg ; the patronage is exercised by Professor Scott 
 of Aberdeen, and the minister's stipend is £238. 2. 2. 
 There is an excellent manse with offices, and the glebe 
 comprises upwards of fifty-two acres, of which thirty- 
 five are in good cultivation, and the remainder indifferent 
 pasture. Till about seventy or eighty years since, there 
 were two glebes in the united parish, one near Fort- 
 Augustus, and the other on the banks of Loch Ness, 
 both eligible and desirable tracts of laud, which were 
 then exchanged for the present glebe. The church, 
 conveniently situated for the bulk of the population, 
 was built in 1777, and is a neat and well-finished build- 
 ing, seated for 560 persons. There is a missionary 
 minister in conne.vion with the Established Church, 
 who regularly officiates at Fort-Augustus ; and in the 
 same district is a Roman Catholic chapel. The paro- 
 chial school affords instruction in Latin, Gaelic, and the 
 ordinary branches of education ; the master has a salary 
 of £30, with about £13. 10. fees. At Fort-Augustus, 
 also, is a school, supported by charity. — See Fort- 
 Augustus. 
 
 BOLTON, a parish, in the county of Haddington, 
 2 miles (S. by W.) from Haddington; containing 341 
 inhabitants. This manor belonged to Hepburn of Bol- 
 ton, who, as the associate of the Earl of Bothwell, was 
 executed for the murder of the Earl of Darnley ; and on 
 its consequent forfeiture, it was granted to William 
 Maitland, better known as Secretary Lethington. The 
 grant was confirmed to his kinsman the Earl of Lauder- 
 dale, in whose family the property continued till the 
 Revolution, when it was sold to Sir Thomas Living- 
 stone. In 1702 it passed by purchase into the noble 
 family of Blautyre, its present proprietors ; as did also 
 the adjoining property of Lethington, now called Len- 
 noxlove. The parish, which is about six miles in length 
 and one mile and a quarter in average breadth, is 
 bounded on the east and north-east by the Gifford or
 
 BONA 
 
 BON H 
 
 Bolton water, and comprises 3090 acres, of which 3*0 
 are woodland, 70 acres meadow and pasture, and the re- 
 mainder arable. Its surface, though pleasingly undu- 
 lated, possesses little other variety, seldom rising to any 
 considerable elevation ; the scenery is, however, greatly 
 enriched with woods, in which are some remarkably 
 fine trees. The chief stream is the Bolton water, which 
 is the boundary between this parish and that of Had- 
 dington for nearly three miles. It rises in the Lammer- 
 moor hills, and, receiving various tributary streams in 
 its descent, flows with a rapid current past the parish, 
 and falls into the Tyne near Haddington. It adds 
 greatly to the scenery, having banks crowned with 
 thriving plantations, and abounds in trout of excellent 
 quality. The Birns water, a small stream rising also in 
 the Lamraermoor hills, after forming a boundary between 
 this parish and that of Humbie, falls into the Tyne at 
 Salton. There are likewise various springs of good water, 
 affording an abundant supply for domestic use. 
 
 The soil is generally a fertile clay, with the exception 
 of a small portion of inferior quality. The principal 
 crops are wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, and turnips ; 
 the lands are well drained and inclosed, and all the 
 modern improvements in husbandry, and in agricultural 
 implements, have been adopted. Great attention is 
 paid to sheep and cattle, and to the cultivation of green 
 crops, on which they are fed throughout the winter 
 season. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £3072. The woods consist of the various kinds of 
 forest-trees, many of which are of ancient and stately 
 growth ; and in the grounds of],-Baglescarnie are some 
 remarkably fine chesnut-trees. In this parish the prin- 
 cipal substrata are, sandstone of coarse texture, and 
 greenstone of very compact quality, but no quarries have 
 been opened ; limestone is supposed to exist, but none 
 has hitherto been worked. The only mansion-house is 
 Eaglescarnie, pleasantly situated near the bank of the 
 Bolton water, which enlivens the demesne ; the lands 
 are embellished with thriving and extensive plantations. 
 The ancient manor-house of Bolton has long since dis- 
 appeared, and the only remaining memorial of it is the 
 site on which it stood, still called the Orchard Park. 
 Ecclesiastically, Bolton is in the presbytery of Hadding- 
 ton and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale : the minister's 
 stipend is £153. 15. 5., with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £18 per annum ; patron. Lord Blantyre. The church, 
 erected in 1809, is a handsome structure in the later 
 English style, with a square embattled tower, and is 
 well adapted for a congregation of 350 persons. The 
 parochial school affords instruction to about eighty 
 scholars ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with £40 
 fees, and a house and garden. There are some remains 
 of a Roman camp, of quadrilateral form, occupying an 
 area of more than five acres. 
 
 BON-ACCORD, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in 
 the parish of Old Aberdeen, district and county of 
 Aberdeen; containing 5170 inhabitants. This district, 
 which comprises about twenty-eight acres, and is wholly 
 situated within the town of Old Aberdeen, was separated 
 in 1834, and continued for some years a quoad sacra 
 parish. The church was built in 18'23, by a congre- 
 gation of Scottish Baptists, from whom it was purchased 
 in 1828, as a chapel of ease to the parish church, at an 
 expense of £1250 ; it is a neat structure, containing 840 
 sittings. There are congregations of the Free Church 
 147 
 
 and Baptists ; several Sabbath schools, and a library of 
 500 volumes. 
 
 BONAR, a village, in the parish of Criech, county 
 of Sutherland, 12 miles (W.) from Dornoch; contain- 
 ing 247 inhabitants. It is prettily seated on the northern 
 shore of Dornoch Firth, at the junction of the Assynt, 
 Reay, Caithness, and Ross-shire roads. Bonar has lat- 
 terly rapidly increased from a small hamlet to a good- 
 sized village, owing to the erection of a bridge, by which 
 it has become the chief entrance into the county from 
 the opposite shore ; and it is likely to be the nucleus of 
 a future town of considerable extent and importance. 
 The bridge, called Bonah Bridge, is of one iron and 
 two stone arches, and was built in 1812, by the land- 
 owners of the county, at a cost of about £14,000. Some 
 trade is carried on with this village and neighbourhood 
 by means of small vessels, for which there is a sufficient 
 depth of water ; and markets for the sale of cattle are 
 held in July, August, and September. 
 
 BO'NESS. — See Borrowstounness. 
 
 BONGATE, a village, in the parish and district of 
 Jedburgh, county of Roxburgh; containing 241 in- 
 habitants. 
 
 BONHILL, a parish, in the county of Dumbarton, 
 3 miles (N.) from Dumbarton; containing, with the 
 villages of Alexandria, Dalvait, Damhead, and Mill of 
 Haldane, 6682 inhabitants, of whom 2041 are in the vil- 
 lage of Bonhill. The name of this parish was originally 
 written Buchnall, afterwards Bulhill, and at length 
 Bunnul ; and the original term is supposed to be a cor- 
 ruption of the Gaelic Bogh n vill, which signifies " the 
 foot of the rivulet". More recently, the parish was 
 called Boneil or Buneil, probably from the Gaelic words 
 signifying " the root or foot of the waters ". As the 
 south end of Loch Lomond enters and bisects the parish 
 about halfway from the north-west corner of it, it may 
 be, and is invariably, called the fout of it ; and as the 
 lake empties itself into the river Leven at the same end, 
 it may, likewise, and with equal propriety, be called the 
 root, or parent, of its waters. The whole lands formerly 
 belonged to the family of Lennox, but in the fifteenth 
 century the Darnley family obtained one-half of the 
 estate, with the titles, by marriage, and the other half 
 was afterwards divided between the families of Napier 
 and Gleneagles ; Darleith was the property of the Dar- 
 leiths, who are said to have been hereditary followers of 
 the Earls of Lennox. The castle of Belloch or Balloch, 
 here, was the early scat of the Lennox family, whose 
 charters are often dated hence in the thirteenth and 
 fourteenth centuries ; the site is still marked by the 
 fosse, but no remains of the building are visible. The 
 Lindsays, another family of note, also anciently resided 
 in the parish ; their ancestors were knights in the reign of 
 David II., and they acquired the estate by grant from 
 their relation, the Earl of Lennox, by whom, likewise, 
 they were appointed foresters of the earldom. The male 
 line failing soon after the Restoration, the estate passed 
 to Sir James Smollett, provost, and representative in 
 parliament, of Dumbarton, and afterwards a commis- 
 sioner of the Union. 
 
 The PARISH is four miles and a half in length and four 
 in breadth, and comprises 5752 acres, whereof 3056 are 
 arable, 538 plantation, and the remainder uncultivated 
 moor. The river Leven, which is remarkable for the soft- 
 ness and clearness of its water, issues from Loch Lomond 
 
 U 2
 
 BONH 
 
 BOOS 
 
 at Balloch, flows through the parish, and falls into the 
 Firth of Clyde at Dumbarton Castle, after a circuitous 
 course of about nine miles. The tide runs up it for 
 about three miles, and it is navigable for lighters drawn 
 by horses throughout its whole extent. It produces 
 excellent salmon and a variety of other fish. In the 
 vale of the Leven the soil is alluvial, and, where any 
 excavations have been made, has been found to have 
 under it, at different depths, and of different thicknesses, 
 successive beds of fine sand, coarse gravel, and shell 
 marl. The soil of the high grounds, on the east side of 
 the vale to the extent of three-fourths, and on the west 
 side of it to the extent of one-half, is incumbent on red 
 sandstone, which is soft and porous, except at a great 
 depth ; the soil of the other half of the west side lies 
 upon a bluish sandstone, susceptible of a fine polish, 
 but brittle, and with indurated nodules of a purplish 
 clay here and there embedded in it. The woods are 
 famed for the number of woodcocks which visit them in 
 winter, and the river and lake for a great variety of 
 aquatic birds. The lands are all cultivated according to 
 the most improved methods ; and furrow-draining, and 
 the subsoil plough, have been adopted with great advan- 
 tage : the horses are of the Clydesdale breed, and the 
 Ayrshire cows are kept for the dairy. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £16,7"6. The mansions 
 are, the House of Darleith, the ancient seat of Bonhill, 
 the modern castles of Balloch and Tillichewen, and the 
 houses of Broomly, Woodbank, Cameron, Belretiro, 
 and Arden. 
 
 Bleachfields and print-works furnish the chief employ- 
 ment of the place, and since their establishment the 
 population has rapidly increased. The parish long ago 
 acquired celebrity for its bleaching processes, from the 
 introduction of workmen from Holland, and the esta- 
 blishment of bleachfields on the Dutch method : the 
 first print-field on the Leven was not begun till about 
 the year 1*68, and even then, the printing was almost 
 entirely confined to handkerchiefs, and done by block- 
 printing, but copperplate presses were soon erected, and 
 afterwards presses to be driven by water. During the 
 present century, the number of the works has much in- 
 creased, and both departments are now simultaneously 
 carried on in the same establishments. The works in 
 operation are those of Dalmonach, Bonhill, Ferryfield, 
 Levenfield, Levenbank, and Alexandria ; those of Dalli- 
 chip, Kirkland, and JNlilburn, for bleaching, dyeing, and 
 printing ; and Milburn works for producing pyroligneous 
 acid, tar, pyroxilic spirit, kreosote, &c., at which works, 
 also, a fine Prussian-blue is manufactured. At these 
 various places, steam-engines and water-wheels are in 
 operation, and the total number of persons employed is 
 about 4000. A fair is held at Bonhill on the first 
 Thursday in February, and another at Balloch on Sep- 
 tember 15th, both for horses. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Dumbarton, sj'nod of 
 Glasgow and Ayr. The minister's stipend is about £200, 
 with a manse, and a glebe of the annual value of £30 : 
 the patronage is in the Campbell family of Stonefield. 
 Bonhill church, a plain structure with a tower, was 
 opened in 1S36, and contains 1200 sittings: another 
 church, on the General Assembly's Extension scheme, 
 was opened in 1840 ; and the United Presbyterian Synod 
 and the Independents have places of worship. A place 
 148 
 
 of worship has also been erected for the Free Church. 
 In the churchyard of the parochial church is an ancient 
 and gigantic ash-tree, which, in the agricultural survey 
 of the shire, published in ISll, is said to measure round 
 its trunk eighteen feet where smallest ; it has long been 
 the wonder and admiration of the beholder, but is now 
 going rapidly to decay. Until lately there was another 
 ash in the parish, of still larger dimensions, in the trunk 
 of which a room was formed, nine feet in diameter. 
 Two parochial schools are supported, the master of each 
 of which has a salar)' of £21. 7-, with about £1.t fees, 
 and a house and garden. There is a mechanics' institu- 
 tion in the parish. 
 
 BONJEDWARD, a village, in the parish and dis- 
 trict of Jedburgh, county of Roxburgh, containing 
 107 inhabitants. This was formerly one of the seats of 
 the Douglas family, who had a stronghold in the village, 
 which was demolished in the course of the last century. 
 The village is pleasantly situated, and the lands are 
 fertile and in good cultivation j there are some corn- 
 mills here, and the inhabitants are chiefly employed in 
 agriculture. 
 
 BONKLE, a village, in the parish of Cambcsne- 
 THAN, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; contain- 
 ing 110 inhabitants. It is a small romantic village, 
 situated on the northern boundary of the parish, and on 
 the road from Steuart-Town to Shotts. The United 
 Presbyterian Synod have a place of worship here. 
 
 BONNINGTON, a village, in the parish of R.4tho, 
 county of Edinburgh, If mile (S. W.) from Ratho ; 
 containing 132 inhabitants. It is situated east of the 
 Amond water, and a short distance north of the road 
 between Edinburgh and East Caider. Ratho House, a 
 modern mansion, is in the vicinity. In the village is a 
 small school. 
 
 BONNINGTON. a hamlet, in the parish of Arbir- 
 LOT, county of Forfar ; containing 67 inhabitants. 
 
 BONNYBRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Fal- 
 kirk, county of Stirling, 4 miles (W. S. W.) from 
 Falkirk; containing 184 inhabitants. This village is 
 pleasantly situated on the turnpike road to Glasgow, 
 and on the eastern bank of the river Bonny, which sepa- 
 rates the western portion of the parish from the parishes 
 of Denny and Dunipace. The inhabitants are chiefly 
 employed in agriculture, and in the various works in the 
 neighbourhood. At Bonnymuir, in the immediate vici- 
 nity, is a distillery, in which about twelve persons are 
 regularly engaged, and which, on an average, pays 
 gov'ernment duties amounting to £150 weekly; and at 
 Bonnyside is a saw-mill, driven by water, where fourteen 
 persons are employed. A school has been established 
 here, the master of which receives a salary of £4, arising 
 from a bequest of £100 by jNIr. Scott; he has also a 
 house and garden rent-free. In the neighbourhood of 
 Bonnybridge is a small burying-place. 
 
 BONNYRIGG, a village, in the parish of Cockpen, 
 county of Edinburgh, 3 miles (N. W.) from Cockpen; 
 containing 650 inhabitants. It is a considerable village, 
 situated on the road between Lasswade and Cockpen, 
 in the northern part of the parish; and in the vicinity 
 are extensive coal- works. A school has been established 
 here. 
 
 BOOSHALA or BUACHAILLE ISLE, in the parish 
 of KiLNiNiAN, county of Argyll. It is one of the 
 Hebrides, and lies south of Staffa, from which island it 
 
 f 
 
 I
 
 B O RG 
 
 BO R R 
 
 is separated by a stormy channel about ninety feet wide. 
 The isle is of an irregular pyramidal form, entirely com- 
 posed of basaltic pillars, inclining in every direction. — 
 See KiLNiNiAN, and Staffa. 
 
 BORA HOLM ISLE, in the parish of Rendal, 
 county of Orkney. It is situated opposite to the en- 
 trance of a harbour called the Mill-Burn, in the isle of 
 Gairsay, and is uninhabited. 
 
 BORELAND, a village, in the parish of Dysart, 
 district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, ^ a mile (N. by 
 E.) from Dysart; containing 193 inhabitants. This 
 place, which is situated about half a mile south-east of 
 the village of Gallaton, was built about the middle of 
 the last century, and is chiefly inhabited by persons 
 employed in the collieries in the neighbourhood, which 
 were formerly carried on to a much greater extent than 
 they are at present. Since the limitation of those works, 
 within the last twenty or thirty years, the population of 
 the village has diminished from more than 300 to its 
 present number. A school has been endowed, the mas- 
 ter of which has a salary, a schoolroom and dwelling- 
 house rent-free, and a supply of coal. 
 
 BORERAY, an island, in the quoad sacra parish of 
 Trumisgarry, island of North Uist, county of Inver- 
 ness ; containing 181 inhabitants. It lies a little south 
 of North Uist, and west of Bernera, in the Sound of 
 Harris ; and is about three miles in circumference, and 
 rather fertile, with a fresh-water lake. A considerable 
 quantity of kelp is made, the manufacture forming the 
 chief employment of the population. 
 
 BORGUE, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirkcud- 
 bright, 5 miles (S. W. by W.) from Kirkcudbright ; 
 containing, with the villages of Chapeltou and Kirk- 
 Andrews, 1060 inhabitants, of whom 47 are in the 
 village of Borgue. This place, the name of which is 
 descriptive of the eminence whereon the church is built, 
 comprehends the ancient parishes of Kirk-Andrews and 
 Sandwick, which, after the dilapidation of their churches, 
 now in ruins, were united with it in I67O. The parish 
 is situated on the river Dee, and bounded by the Solway 
 Firth. It is about ten miles in length and seven miles 
 in extreme breadth, and comprises 1'2,864 acres, of 
 which about 8000 are arable, about '250 woodland and 
 plantations, and the remainder rough pasture. The 
 surface of the parish is undulated, and diversified with 
 hills of moderate elevation. The coast is indented with 
 numerous bays, and is bold and rocky, and in some 
 parts precipitously steep, rising in cliffs of irregular and 
 fantastic form towards the heads called Borness and 
 Muncraig. These heads command an extensive view, 
 embracing a wide expanse of sea, with a beautiful variety 
 of vale and mountain scenery, including the course of 
 the river Dee, the town of Kirkcudbright, the rich 
 foliage of St. Mary's Island, the range of the Cumberland 
 mountains, the Isle of Man, and the coast of Wigtown. 
 The more level parts of the parish, inclosed by numerous 
 gentle hills, formed several small lakes, which have been 
 drained, though enough are still remaining to afford an 
 abundant supply of water ; and scattered over the sur- 
 face are not less than thirty mounds, called drums, from 
 200 to 300 yards in length, the grounds around which 
 are wet and marshy. 
 
 The soil is what is called free mould, of various qua- 
 lity, well adapted for oats and barley, but not of suffi- 
 cient depth for wheat : the chief crops are oats, barley, 
 149 
 
 potatoes, and turnips, with the various grasses ; and the 
 system of agriculture is improved. A considerable quan- 
 tity of waste land has been rendered profitable by effec- 
 tive draining. The fences, mostly of stone, are kept in 
 good repair, and the farm-buildings and offices art 
 generally substantial and commodious. Bone-dust is 
 used for manure, and the soil has been benefited by the 
 judicious use of lime, by which much of the moss has 
 been converted into good pasture land. The cattle are 
 principally of the Galloway breed, and the sheep of the 
 Leicester and Cheviot breeds. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £9554. The rocks are mainly 
 of the transition formation, and the principal substrata, 
 greywacke, slate, and clay-slate ; there are some quar- 
 ries of stone, from which materials are raised for the 
 fences and for common building purposes. The planta- 
 tions are comparatively of modern growth ; they are well 
 managed, and in a thriving state. Earlston is a hand- 
 some mansion in the parish, beautifully situated in a 
 richly-wooded demesne, commanding a fine view of 
 Wigtown bay and the Cumberland mountains. 
 
 The village population is agricultural and pastoral ; 
 and from the proximity of a convenient harbour, one of 
 the fanners has built two vessels, for the exportation of 
 grain. Salmon is found in great abundance in the 
 river Dee, and also in the bays with which the south- 
 western coast of the parish is indented. Ecclesiastically, 
 Borgue is within the bounds of the presbytery of Kirk- 
 cudbright and synod of Galloway : the minister's sti- 
 pend is about £265, with a manse, and the glebe, in- 
 cluding those qf Kirk-Andrews and Sandwick, is valued 
 at £40 per annum ; patron, the Crown. The church, 
 conveniently situated nearly in the centre of the parish, 
 is an elegant cruciform structure in the early English 
 style, with a lofty square embattled tower, erected in 
 1S14, and containing 500 sittings : from its elevated 
 site, it forms a conspicuous object, and is seen at a great 
 distance. There is a place of worship for members of 
 the Free Church. The Borgue Academy is an extension 
 of the parochial school, under the endowment of Mr. 
 Rainy, of the island of Dominica, who bequeathed 
 £3000 for the promotion of education in his native 
 parish. It is under the management of a head master, 
 who has a salary of £34. 4. 4. in addition to the fees, 
 and an assistant, whose salary is paid from the endow- 
 ment. The usual number of scholars is 120, of whom 
 twenty are taught gratuitously, their fees being paid 
 from the same bequest. The poor are partly supported 
 from Mr. Rainy's endowment, and the proceeds of small 
 charitable beciuests. There are some slight remains of 
 ancient castles, several British forts, and various other 
 relics of antiquity, in the parish. 
 
 BORLAND-PARK, a village, in the parish of Auch- 
 terarder, county of Perth, ^ a mile (N. W.) from 
 Auchterarder ; containing 141 inhabitants. This village 
 was built by government, for the accommodation of the 
 disbanded military, after the conclusion of the war, in 
 1763 ; but was soon deserted by the soldiers for whose 
 residence it was originally designed. It is now inha- 
 bited chiefly by weavers, employed by the manufacturers 
 of Glasgow. 
 
 BORROWSTOUN, a village, in the parish of Bor- 
 ROwsTouNNEss, couiity of LiNLiTHGOw, | of a mile (S.) 
 from the town of Borrowstounness ; containing 60 in- 
 habitants.
 
 B O R R 
 
 BORR 
 
 BORROWSTOUNNESS, a sea-port town, burgh of 
 barony, and parish, in the county of Linlithgow, 
 3 miles (N.) from Linlithgow; containing, with the 
 villages of Borrowstoun and Newton, 2347 inhabitants, 
 of whom 1790 are in the town. This place appears to 
 have originated in the erection of some buildings on a 
 7iess, or a point of land, boldly projecting into the Firth 
 of Forth, about three-quarters of a mile to the north of 
 the small village of Burwardstown, or Borrowstoun; 
 from which circumstance it derived its name, Borrows- 
 tounness, or, by contraction, Bo'ness. In 1600, there was 
 only one solitary house on the site of the present town, 
 while the ancient town of Kinneil, which had grown up 
 near the baronial castle of Kinneil, contained more than 
 500 inhabitants ; but the advantageous situation of the 
 ness, and the abundance of coal in the immediate 
 vicinity, soon attracted shipping to its port ; and the 
 prosperous state of trade about the commencement of the 
 seventeenth century, induced many rich merchants and 
 ship-owners to settle in the town, which from that time 
 rapidly advanced. In 1634, the increase of its popula- 
 tion, and the distance of the parish church of Kinneil, 
 situated near the baronial mansion, induced the inha- 
 bitants to erect a church for themselves, in which the 
 minister of Kinneil continued to officiate alternately, for 
 their accommodation, till the year 1649, when, on their 
 petition to parliament, the town of Borrowstounness, 
 with its environs, was separated from the parish of 
 Kinneil, and erected into an independent parish. In 
 1669, the Duke of Hamilton obtained from the Scottish 
 parliament an act declaring the church of this town the 
 parish church of the whole barony of Kinneil and Bor- 
 rowstounness, since which time the two have been 
 consolidated into one parish. The place continued to 
 increase in prosperity, and, from the superiority of its 
 situation for trade, to withdraw the population from 
 Kinneil, which in I69I contained only a few families, 
 and now has wholly disappeared : in 1*48 the town 
 upon the ness was erected into a burgh of barony, 
 under the Duke of Hamilton. Kinneil was the head of 
 the barony of that name, granted by Robert Bruce to 
 the ancestor of the Dukes of Hamilton, in acknowledg- 
 ment of his services on the field of Bannockburn. 
 
 The TOWN is situated in the north-eastern extremity 
 of the parish, on the south shore of the Firth of Forth, 
 and consists principally of narrow streets, of houses of 
 ancient and irregular appearance. It was formerly one 
 of the most thriving towns on the eastern coast, ranking, 
 prior to I7SO, as the third sea-port in Scotland; and 
 though the opening of the Forth and Clyde canal, and 
 the establishment of the port of Grangemouth, have 
 contributed much to diminish its commerce, it is still 
 far from being inconsiderable. The female population 
 were once employed in tambour-work to a very large 
 extent, and many females are yet engaged in that pur- 
 suit. A pottery was established in 1784, and has since 
 that time been greatly increased. There is an extensive 
 foundry, and chemical works are carried on upon a large 
 scale. A distillery is in full operation, paying weekly 
 to government more than £300 for duties. There are 
 several large malting estabhshments ; and at the east 
 end of the town, and on the links, are a rope-walk and 
 extensive wood-yards, connected with which is a saw- 
 mill worked by steam, the engine of which is also em- 
 ployed in the preparation of bone-dust for manure. 
 150 
 
 The chief trade of the port is in grain, for which the 
 merchants have extensive granaries, capable of ware- 
 housing 15,000 quarters ; a considerable trade is also 
 carried on in the exportation of salt, coal, ironstone, 
 and earthenware : the imports are principally timber, 
 iron, flax, grain, bark, and madder. The number of 
 vessels registered as belonging to the port, in a late year, 
 was 101, of the aggregate burthen of 6521 tons; and 
 the amount of duties paid at the custom-house was 
 £4824. The harbour, which has been greatly improved, 
 under the superintendence of fifteen trustees, chosen 
 from the merchants and ship-owners, is one of the 
 safest and most accessible on this part of the coast, and 
 is formed by two piers, extending 568 feet into the Firth. 
 It is 240 feet wide, and at spring tides has an average 
 depth of from sixteen to eighteen feet. Between the 
 piers a broad wall has been constructed, cutting off, 
 towards the land, a basin, which is filled with water b\- 
 the tide, and at low water emptied by sluices, by which 
 means the harbour is cleansed and deepened ; and on the 
 west side of the basin is a patent-slip, to which vessels 
 are admitted for repair. There were once eight ships 
 belonging to the place employed in the whale-fishery, 
 but that trade has for some years been decreasing, and 
 at present only one vessel is engaged in it ; there are 
 two boiling-houses for extracting the oil, one of which 
 has been lately much improved. The Stirling steamers 
 touch here on their passage to and from Edinburgh. 
 A branch from the town to the Forth and Clyde canal 
 was commenced by a subscription of £10,000, raised 
 under an act of parliament, in 1782, and an aqueduct 
 across the Avon was constructed for that purpose ; but 
 the work was abandoned after an outlay of £7500, before 
 it was half completed, and has not since been resumed. 
 In 1846 a railway act was passed for the purpose of 
 connecting Borrowstounness with the Edinburgh and 
 Glasgow railway and the Slamannan railway. A market 
 is held weekly on Monday, and a fair annually on the 
 I6th of November; a pleasure fair is also held, in July. 
 The burgh is governed by a baron-bailie, appointed by 
 the Duke of Hamilton as superior : a building erected 
 by one of the dukes, for a court-house and prison, is 
 now occupied chiefly as a granary ; it is situated at the 
 head of the harbour, and forms a conspicuous object. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the north by the Firth of 
 Forth, and on the south and west by the river Avon. 
 It is of triangular form, about four miles in length from 
 east to west, and two miles in breadth, comprising about 
 3000 acres, of which '270 are woodland and plantations, 
 and the remainder arable in the highest state of cultiva- 
 tion, of which 430 acres are esteemed to be the richest 
 carse land in the country. The surface, with the excep- 
 tion of the carse, is much varied, rising towards the 
 south-eastern extremity of the parish, to a height of 520 
 feet above the level of the sea. From this eminence, 
 which is called the Hill of Irongath, the ground slopes 
 gradually to the south and west, and is embellished 
 with stately timber and strips of planting, to the wooded 
 banks of the Avon. This river, from its numerous 
 windings at the west end of the parish, forms an inter- 
 esting feature in the scenery, from many points of view ; 
 and the Dean and Gil burns, flowing through romantic 
 dells near Kinneil House, add greatly to its beauty. The 
 soil is mostly fertile, and the chief crops are wheat, 
 barley, oats, beans, and the usual green crops : the sys-
 
 BO RT 
 
 BO RT 
 
 tem of agriculture is good ; draining has been practised 
 to a considerable extent, and all the more recent im- 
 provements in husbandry have been generally adopted. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £8369. 
 The substratum is of the coal formation, with very little 
 variety : the coal occurs in seams of great thickness, 
 and is of excellent quality ; ironstone is likewise found, 
 and very extensive iron-works have been erected within 
 the last few years. There are some quarries of good free- 
 stone, and also of whinstone and limestone, but the lime- 
 stone is of inferior quality, and more used for building 
 than for agricultural purposes. Kinneil House, one of the 
 seats of the Duke of Hamilton, is an ancient mansion, 
 beautifully situated on the brow of a steep bank, command- 
 ing a fine view of the Firth, and has undergone various 
 changes at different times. The ancient castle has been 
 modernised by a new front, and the battlements re- 
 placed by a balustrade ; the original windows have been 
 enlarged, and a wing projecting at right angles from the 
 northern extremity has been added : a corresponding 
 wing on the south was probably contemplated, the 
 whole to form three sides of a quadrangle. The ap- 
 proach is by a stately avenue of venerable trees, and the 
 ample and richly-varied demesne by which the mansion is 
 surrounded abounds with beautifully picturesque scenery. 
 The numerous apartments of this once princely house 
 are now unoccupied ; and among the tenants who have 
 resided in it, since it was deserted by its noble proprie- 
 tors, have been the celebrated Dugald Stewart, and James 
 Watt, the improver of the steam-engine. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Linlithgow, synod of 
 Lothian and Tweeddale ; patron, the Duke of Hamilton : 
 the minister's stipend is about £270, partly arising from 
 lands bequeathed for that purpose ; with a manse, and 
 a glebe valued at £21 per annum. The church, nearly 
 rebuilt in 1/75, and enlarged in 1820, is a neat plain 
 structure containing 950 sittings. There are still some 
 remains of the ancient church of Kinneil, near Kinneil 
 House. A place of worship is maintained in connexion 
 with the United Presbyterian Synod. The parochial 
 school is attended by about fifty children ; the master 
 has a salary of £34. 4. ^., with a house and garden, and 
 the fees average about £40 per annum. A parochial 
 library, in which is a collection of about 1250 volumes, 
 is supported by subscription. In various parts of the 
 parish are traces of the wall of Antoninus, which is sup- 
 posed to have extended originally to Kinneil, and after- 
 wards to Carriden. Near the farm of Upper Kinneil 
 was a cairn called the Laughing Hill, in which were 
 found four stone coffins containing black mould, and 
 four urns, in an inverted position, containing human 
 bones. A similar coffin and urn were found in the side 
 of an eminence called Bell's Know, immediately above 
 the town of Borrowstounness. Below Kinneil House, 
 upon the coast, and near the lands called the Snab, was 
 the castle of Lyon, of which some remains of the garden 
 wall, and a path leading from it to the shore, called the 
 Castle-Loan, are the only memorials. 
 
 BORTHWICK, a parish, in the county of Edin- 
 burgh, 3 miles (E. by N.) from Temple; containing, 
 with the villages of Clayhouse, Dewartown, Middleton, 
 North Middleton, Newlandrig, and part of Stobbsmills, 
 1617 inhabitants. This place, anciently called Locher- 
 wart, assumed the appellation of Borthwick about the 
 151 
 
 time of the Reformation, from the family of that name. 
 The most remote possessors of the extensive estates in 
 this district of whom we have any account, were the 
 family of Lyne, who occupied the domain till the reign 
 of Alexander H., when it passed to the Hays, who 
 in the time of James L disposed of the lands to Sir 
 William de Borthwick, founder of the magnificent cas- 
 tle afterwards so celebrated in Scottish history. This 
 personage was created Lord Borthwick in 1433 ; and the 
 castle thus became the seat of a barony, and, by a spe- 
 cial license obtained from the king, was fortified in a 
 very complete manner, and supplied with every thing 
 necessary for its safety and defence. The descendants 
 of this baron were illustrious for the general character 
 of integrity and honour which they sustained, and for 
 the part they took in the public transactions of their 
 times. William, the third lord, was slain, with James 
 IV., at the fatal battle of Flodden. John, the fifth 
 lord, was a zealous supporter of Queen Mary, who 
 occasionally visited his castle, and made it an asylum, 
 before the commencement of her long series of troubles. 
 John, the eighth lord, in the time of the civil wars, 
 strenuously supported the cause of the Royalists, and, 
 being besieged in his castle by Cromwell after the ex- 
 ecution of the king, was obliged at length to surrender. 
 In 1449, the ecclesiastical revenues of the parish were 
 appropriated to the collegiate church of Crichton. But 
 in April 1596, James I. of England dissolved from that 
 establishment several prebendaries, with two boys or 
 clerks to assist in the performance of divine service 
 here, assigning to them proper salaries ; and these pre- 
 bends, with the vicarage of Borthwick, manse, and 
 glebe, were then by royal charter erected into a dis- 
 tinct charge, called the parsonage of Borthwick. This 
 arrangement was ratified by parliament, in 1606, and 
 confirmed by the Archbishop of St. Andrew's as patron 
 of the prebends. 
 
 The PARISH is about six miles long and four miles 
 broad, and contains about 21,000 acres, of which 19,100 
 are in tillage or pasture, 700 in plantations, and 1200 
 are uncultivated. The surface is of an undulated cha- 
 racter, presenting an agreeable succession of eminences, 
 most of which are well cultivated ; and these, as well 
 as the low grounds, are in many cases sheltered and 
 ornamented with thriving plantations. The rising 
 grounds are intersected by a number of picturesque and 
 beautiful valleys, watered by winding streams. The 
 south-east corner of the parish lies high, and strikes 
 the traveller from the south as bleak ; but as he pro- 
 ceeds a short distance on the road to Edinburgh, and 
 obtains a view of the rich and wide valley of Mid- 
 Lothian, of which Borthwick at this point is the en- 
 trance, the character of the landscape rapidly improves, 
 and presents, if not a rich, at least a romantic and 
 agreeable aspect. From the summit of Covvbrae Hill, 
 at the upper boundary of the parish, an extensive pros- 
 pect may be obtained of the surrounding country, well 
 repaying the labour of ascending the eminence. In the 
 proper seasons, the great profusion of plants and flowers, 
 especially of wild roses, for which Borthwick is famed, 
 makes it alike inviting to the admirer of garden scenery 
 and the lover of botanical research. Two burns traverse 
 the higher part of the parish, called the North and South 
 Middleton, which, after their junction at the end of the 
 neck of land on which the castle is situated, take the
 
 BO RT 
 
 BOS W 
 
 name of the Gore, and at length, winding through the 
 whole extent of the valley, fall into the South Esk at 
 Shank Point. 
 
 The SOIL is various, being in some parts a fine light 
 mould, and in others loamy, and approaching to heavy 
 clayey earth : in the vicinity of the streams the allu- 
 vial land is subject to occasional inundations. All kinds 
 of grain are raised, with the usual green crops ; and the 
 lands are plentifully manured with farm-yard dung, 
 lime, and bone-dust : the farms are in general in a high 
 state of cultivation. The cattle bred here are the short- 
 horned, and the sheep principally the black-faced and 
 the Cheviot, although a cross between the Leicester and 
 the Cheviot has been preferred on some of the large 
 estates. A long barren moor at the base of the Lam- 
 mermoors, with other ground of the same description, 
 has to a considerable extent beeu cultivated ; and the 
 river locahties, with several low swamps, have been 
 cleared of their wild wood, and intersected with drains ; 
 improvements that have greatly added to the value of 
 the land. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £6S37. The rocks consist chiefly of grey- 
 wacke, limestone, and sandstone ; of the first kind are 
 the Lammerraoor hills, on the southern boundary of 
 the parish, and the substance of Cowbrae Hill is the 
 same. On the abrupt borders of Currie Wood, a coarse- 
 grained reddish sandstone is found, in layers, interlined 
 with some lighter-coloured varieties of the same rock. 
 The sandstone hitherto discovered in the parish contains 
 a strong admixture of calcareous matter, which greatly 
 deteriorates its value as a building material ; but the 
 district contains very superior limestone and coal, 
 which are wrought extensively, and sent to Edinburgh 
 and some of the southern towns of Scotland. Lime- 
 burning is regularly carried on, and large quantities of 
 lime are used for agricultural purposes. Great facilities 
 of intercouse are afforded by the Edinburgh and Hawick 
 railway, which has a station near Fushie-Bridge, in the 
 parish. 
 
 -\mong the chief mansions is the House of Arnision, 
 an extensive and majestic structure of baronial appear- 
 ance, ornamented by numerous ancient trees of unusual 
 size, with rich plantations, and finely laid-out grounds, 
 watered by the beautiful stream of the South Esk. Most 
 of its old wood is supposed to have been planted by the 
 first baron of Arniston, Sir James Dundas, who was 
 knighted by James V. about the year 1530. Middletou 
 House, situated in the higher part of the parish, is in a 
 similar style, but of smaller dimensions ; it stands in 
 the midst of thick woods and verdant fields, and is sur- 
 rounded by grounds that are much admired. Currie 
 House was formed about thirty or forty years ago, by 
 enlarging and improving a house upon the property. 
 In the vicinity is Currie Wood, the prospects from 
 which comprise almost every object the union of which 
 may be conceived necessary to constitute a landscape of 
 finished and perfect beauty. Vorgie House is a narrow 
 long building, with little pretension to architectural 
 taste ; but the adjacent grounds are rich, consisting of 
 romantic glens, ornamented with many fine and ma- 
 jestic trees. Harvieston House, in its external appear- 
 ance, is somewhat similar to that of Vorgie ; it was 
 originally of exceedingly plain appearance, but some 
 additions were judiciously made to it a few years ago, 
 and the lands around it have been greatly improved, 
 152 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Dalkeith, synod of Lothian 
 and Tweeddale ; the Dundas family are patrons, and the 
 stipend of the minister is £19S. 12. 3., with a manse, 
 and a glebe of fourteen acres. The church was built in 
 1*80, on the destruction of the ancient edifice by fire, 
 and contains about 450 sittings. There is a parochial 
 school, in which the usual branches of education are 
 taught ; the master has the maximum salary, with £40 
 fees, and the legal accommodation of house and garden. 
 Another school is endowed with a bequest of £3. 17- 
 per annum, the teacher deriving the rest of his income 
 from the scholars. The ancient castle of Borthwick, 
 the chief relic of antiquity in the parish, consists of a 
 single tower, having an embattled wall of hewn stone, 
 thirteen feet in thickness near the base, but contracting 
 gradually to about six feet towards the top. The pro- 
 portions of the building, without the walls, are seventy- 
 four feet by sixty-eight, and about 110 feet from the 
 area to the highest part of the roof. It has a sunk 
 apartment, above which are two large halls, one over 
 the other, the lower of which is ample, elegant, and 
 finely formed, and has a roof ornamented with numerous 
 antique devices. There are also two flights of bed- 
 rooms, and various other internal and external appen- 
 dages, constituting the castle one of the most strilcing 
 buildings of the class in Scotland. It is beautifully 
 situated, and is famous in history for the visits and 
 residence of the unfortunate Queen Mary, while Both- 
 well was lord of the neighbouring castle of Crichton. 
 The eminent historian. Dr. Robertson, was born in the 
 manse, where he received the earliest part of his edu- 
 cation. 
 
 BOSTON, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in the 
 parish of Duxse, county of Berwick ; containing 1'223 
 inhabitants. This parish formed part of the town of 
 Dunse, and derived its name from Thomas Boston, a 
 theological writer, who was born in Dunse parish in 16*6. 
 It was separated in the year 1 839, on the erection of a 
 church, and was in the presbytery of Dunse, synod of 
 Merse and Teviotdale ; the minister was elected by the 
 managers and male communicants. The children of 
 Boston are eligible to the parocHial school of Dunse. 
 
 BOSWELL'S, ST., a parish, in the district of Mel- 
 rose, county of Roxburgh, 4 miles (S. E.) from Mel- 
 rose ; containing, with the village of Lessudden, "4* 
 inhabitants. This place derives its name from its 
 church, which is supposed to have been first founded by 
 St. Boswell, abbot of Melrose, whose disciple, St. Cuth- 
 bert, flourished in the ninth century ; and traces of the 
 ancient village of St. Boswell's are still occasionally dis- 
 covered by the plough. Few historical events are 
 recorded ; the principal one is the burning of the vil- 
 lage by the English of the border, in 1544, when many 
 of the inhabitants were killed, and the lands laid waste : 
 at that time the village is said to have contained many 
 fortified houses. The parish is situated on the river 
 Tweed, which forms its eastern and northern boundary', 
 for two miles ; and is about three miles in length, and 
 one mile and a half in breadth, comprising an area of 
 four and a half square miles. Its surface is uneven, 
 rising in the upper portion in ridgj' undulations, with 
 intervening valleys, but towards the river being more 
 level. The lower grounds are watered by numerous 
 springs, and by a rivulet called St. Boswell's bum,
 
 BOTH 
 
 BOTH 
 
 which in its course towards the Tweed is augmented by 
 several tributary rills. The scenery is generally of 
 pleasing character. Adjoining the village of Lessudden 
 is an elevated ridge, from which is obtained a fine view 
 of the old abbey of Dryburgh, shaded by venerable 
 woods, and nearly surrounded by the windings of the 
 Tweed ; and of the remains of Lessudden Place, an 
 ancient fortress, the property of the Scotts of Raeburn, 
 forming an exceedingly interesting feature in the land- 
 scape. 
 
 The lands, with the exception of about thirty acres on 
 the steep banks of the river, nearly ISO acres of wood- 
 land, and about forty acres of common called St. Bos- 
 well's Green, are all arable, and about 2300 acres are 
 under cultivation. The soil, for the greater part, is a 
 stiff clay ; in the neighbourhood of Lessudden, a black 
 loam ; and in other parts alluvial. The system of agri- 
 culture is good, and considerable improvements have 
 been made in draining the lands, and in the formation 
 of plantations ; the soil is well adapted to the growth 
 of forest-timber of every kind, and on the lands of 
 Ellieston are some of the most flourishing larch-trees in 
 the kingdom. Lime is to be obtained only from a great 
 distance, and bone-dust has been substituted, which has 
 been found to succeed well for turnips. Some progress 
 has been made in embankments against the inundations 
 of the Tweed, and two have been completed to a con- 
 siderable extent on the farms of Fens and St. Boswell's. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £3800. 
 There are quarries of red sandstone, which is of good 
 quality for building, and in some places appears resting 
 on a seam of whitish-coloured stone of great hardness, 
 strongly impregnated with pyrites of iron : coal is sup- 
 posed to exist, but no attempts to procure it have been 
 attended with success. Great facility of intercourse is 
 afforded by the Edinburgh and Hawick railway, which 
 intersects the parish. To the north of the Green, a 
 very handsome hunting establishment has been erected 
 by the Duke of Buccleuch. A fair is held on the Green 
 on the 18th of July, or the following Monday, if the 
 18th happen on a Sunday : it is a very extensive market 
 for sheep and lambs, cattle, and horses, the sales which 
 annually take place averaging from £8000 to £10,000 ; 
 it is also frequented by a great concourse of people from 
 all parts, for the purchase and sale of Scotch and Irish 
 linens, hardware, books, toys, and other articles. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within the 
 hounds of the presbytery of Selkirk, synod of Merse 
 and Teviotdale ; patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. The 
 stipend of the incumbent is about £'2 12 ; the manse, 
 built in 1791, was substantially repaired in 1811, and 
 the glebe comprises seven acres of excellent land. St. 
 Boswell's church, situated at the eastern extremity of 
 the parish, was built near the site of a more ancient 
 structure which had fallen into decay, and probably 
 about the year 1652; it was enlarged and thoroughly 
 repaired in 1837, and affords accommodation to 430 
 persons. A place of worship has been erected in con- 
 nexion with the Free Church. The parochial school 
 affords education to a considerable number of scholars. 
 
 BOTHKENNAR, a parish, in the county of Stir- 
 ling, 3 miles (N. by E.) from Falkirk; containing, with 
 part of the village of Carronshore, about 1000 inha- 
 bitants : according to the census of 1841, the population 
 was only 848, but since that time a coal-work on the 
 Vol. L — 153 
 
 property of the Earl of Zetland has been brought into 
 operation, at which a great number of men are em- 
 ployed. Bothkennar is bounded on the east by the 
 Firth of Forth, and on the south by the river Carron ; 
 forming part of the tract called the Carse of Falkirk. It 
 is about one mile and a half in length, and of nearly 
 the same breadth, comprising about 1560 acres, the 
 whole under tillage. The surface is entirely level ; and 
 the soil, under which, at various depths, are found 
 layers of marine shells, is a very rich alluvial loam, 
 highly cultivated according to the most improved me- 
 thods of husbandry, and producing all kinds of crops, 
 but wheat and beans in the largest proportions, with 
 hay of a superior quality, which is sent for sale to the 
 Edinburgh market. There are numerous orchards, 
 some of which are supposed to have been planted by 
 the monks of Cambuskenneth ; they yield various kinds 
 of fruit, but especially very fine pears, of which the 
 trees bearing an indigenous species called the " golden 
 nap" are particularly celebrated for their luxuriance 
 and beauty, and sometimes produce each, yearly, fruit 
 to the amount in value of £10. The whole of the lands, 
 with very few exceptions, have been improved by tile- 
 draining, the benefit of which has been so extensive as 
 to pay the farmer in two years for the outlay. Great 
 attention is given to the rearing of horses of a superior 
 kind for the uses of husbandry. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £4299. Coal of excellent 
 quality is abundant, and has for a number of years been 
 wrought by the Carron Company, who pay £1000 per 
 annum to the proprietors for this privilege : within the 
 last few years, as already observed, a new coal-work 
 has been brought into operation. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is in the presbytery of Stirling, synod of Perth 
 and Stirling, and in the patronage of John Dallas, R.N.; 
 the minister's stipend is £201. 12. 10., with a manse, 
 built in 1816 at a cost of £1600, and a glebe valued at 
 £12 per annum. The church was built in 1/89 ; it has 
 since undergone considerable repairs, and is a plain 
 comfortable edifice, suited to the accommodation of the 
 parishioners. The parochial school affords instruction 
 in English grammar, arithmetic, writing, geography, ma- 
 thematics, Latin, and Greek ; the master has a salary of 
 £34. 4. 4., with £25 fees. 
 
 BOTHWELL, a parish, in the Middle ward of the 
 county of Lanark; including the villages of Bellshill, 
 Bothwell, Chapelhall, Holytown, Newarthill, and Ud- 
 dingston ; and containing 11,175 inhabitants, of whom 
 570 are in the village of Bothwell, 8 miles (S. li.) from 
 Glasgow. The name is supposed by some to be derived 
 from Both, an eminence, and u-alt, a castle ; terms ap- 
 plied to the parish from the elevated situation of Both- 
 well Castle above the river Clyde. Others derive the 
 appellation from two Celtic words. Both, signifying a 
 dwelling, and ael or hyl, a river, as descriptive of the 
 castle in its contiguity to the river. This extensive 
 barony, in the reign of Alexander I., was held by Walter 
 Olifard, justiciary of Lothian, who died in 1242. It 
 afterwards came into the possession of the distinguished 
 family of Moray, consisting at that date of a tower and 
 fortalice, with their appurtenances, and of lands in various 
 districts, constituting a lordship. In the time of Edward 
 I. of England, it became a place of great importance, and 
 it appears that that monarch resided in the castle from 
 the 17th to 20th September, 1301. In this reign, also. 
 
 X
 
 BOTH 
 
 BOTH 
 
 it was the residence of Aylmer de Valence, Earl of Pem- 
 broke, who fled hither from Loudon Hill, where he had 
 been defeated by Wallace, in 1307, and who in 1309 was 
 made governor of the castles of Selkirk and Bothwell. 
 At the time of the battle of Bannockburn, Sir Walter 
 Fitzgilbert, ancestor of the Hamilton family, was go- 
 vernor ; and after the death of Bruce, when Edwaid HI. 
 invaded Scotland, in 1336, the king was at the castle 
 from the 18th November till the 13th December, in the 
 course of which time fifteen writs were issued thence in 
 his name. It came at length to the Earl of Bothwell, 
 from whom it descended to Archibald the Grim, Earl of 
 Douglas ; and after passing through many other hands, 
 it reverted to the ancient family of Douglas in 1715. 
 The collegiate church of Bothwell was founded for a 
 provost and eight prebendaries on the 10th October, 
 1398, in the reign of Robert H., by the first Earl of 
 Douglas, and was richly endowed. Most of the superi- 
 orities, with part of the property, and all the tithes, now 
 belong to the Duke of Hamilton. Bothwell-Bridge, in 
 the southern part of the parish, is celebrated in history 
 for the battle fought there, in 1679, between the Cove- 
 nanters and the Duke of Monmouth ; and at a little dis- 
 tance is Bothwell-Haugh, formerly the property of James 
 Hamilton, who shot the regent Murray, for confiscating 
 a part of his estate, and the barbarous treatment of his 
 wife, on account of his having espoused the cause of 
 Mary, Queen of Scots. 
 
 The PARISH is about eight miles and a half in extreme 
 length, and varies in breadth from two to four miles, 
 containing 13,600 acres. It is bounded on the north 
 and west by the North Calder, and on the south by the 
 South Calder and the river Clyde. The parish is com- 
 jirehended by the elevated ground running along the 
 north-eastern bank of the Clyde from Lanark to near 
 Glasgow, which range, however, recedes from the river 
 in traversing this district, and leaves an intermediate 
 plain, till it again inclines to the stream in the neighbour- 
 hood of Bothwell-Bridge. Near this it forms a piece of 
 table-land about one mile in extent, running westward, 
 at the head of which are situated the church and village, 
 about 120 feet above the level of the sea, and command- 
 ing to the east a beautiful view of the vale of Clyde. 
 From the eastern boundary of the parish, the land falls 
 rapidly to a distance of nearly four miles, after which a 
 flat of about equal length succeeds, declining southward 
 towards the Calder and the Clyde ; and the western ex- 
 tremity of this tract sinks gradually into the extensive 
 plain on which Glasgow is situated. The Clyde, the 
 chief river, enters the parish at Bothwell-Haugh, and 
 forms a majestic stream, the banks of which are famed 
 for their diversified and picturesque scenery ; it is 120 
 yards broad at Blantyre-Works, but at Bothwell-Bridge 
 contracts itself to a span of seventy-one yards. The 
 North and South Calder, after running separately for 
 about fifteen miles, form each a confluence with the 
 Clyde ; they flow between banks of sandstone rock, 
 beautifully abrupt in many parts, and affording well- 
 wooded and romantic scenery. Of these rivers, the 
 Clyde was formerly celebrated for the abundance of its 
 salmon, but it has now greatly fallen off in this respect, 
 very few fish comparatively visiting it, a circumstance 
 owing to many causes, one of which is said to be the 
 impediment presented to their progress by the dam over 
 the river between Blantyre Mill and Bothwell. 
 154 
 
 The prevailing soil is clay, resting upon a tilly sub- 
 soil, and frequently, and in various proportions, mixed 
 with loam and sand. In some places the soil consists of 
 fine light mould, and in the vicinity of the rivers is a 
 fertile alluvial deposit. The whole land is productive, 
 with small exceptions of moss and moor : two-fifths are 
 in pasture, and grain of all kinds, and of good quality, is 
 raised ; potatoes, turnips, peas, &c., are also cultivated, 
 with some flax, though this last is not grown so largely 
 as formerly. Considerable attention is given to dairy- 
 farming, there being no less than 1000 cows kept, most 
 of which are native varieties of the Ayrshire breed. The 
 horses are in general likewise of a good stock. The an- 
 nual value of real property in the parish is £35,207. 
 The predominating rock is the red sandstone, which lies 
 over the whole coal-bed in this district, at a distance of 
 twenty or thirty fathoms above the coal ; it is bright in 
 colour, and, though sometimes soft and friable, generally 
 well adapted for building. There are several quarries of 
 good freestone of a red colour near the Clyde, and in the 
 upper parts of the parish white freestone is found. Coal 
 abounds in every direction, and the mineral is chiefly 
 procured from four large seams, extending throughout 
 the parish, in which the Ell-coal, Pyotshaw, main, and 
 splint coal succeed each other, the last being best suited 
 for the smelting of iron. The average amount of coal ob- 
 tained is estimated in value at £80,000 annually, and of 
 ironstone, £20,000 : the annual rentals paid to the pro- 
 prietors by the several tacksmen of the collieries amount 
 to £9500, and the rentals of the ironstone to £2500. 
 The principal manufactures in the parish are of pig-iron 
 and steel, the former of which is produced at the Monk- 
 land Company's works at Chapelhall, to a great extent : 
 in the same estabhshment are mills and forges in which 
 400 tons of malleable iron are manufactured weekly ; 
 about 100 tons of steel are manufactured annually, 
 thirty tons of which are made into files, and upwards of 
 2400 persons, including miners, are employed at the 
 works. Other similar works are carried on in the parish. 
 Post-offices are established at Bothwell, Bellshill, and 
 Holytown ; and the lines of the Caledonian railway com- 
 pany afford great facilities of intercourse. 
 
 The chief mansion is Bothwell Castle, a simple yet 
 commodious residence, built of the same red sandstone as 
 the old castle, and consisting of an extensive front and 
 two wings; the apartments are ornamented with several 
 excellent portraits. The grounds are elegantly laid out, 
 and the neighbouring scenery, comprising the waters of 
 the Clyde and its picturesque banks, is ennobled by the 
 ancient and venerable ruin of the castle, in which the 
 chief of the English nobility were confined after the 
 battle of Bannockburn. Woodhall, on the bank of the 
 North Calder, is a spacious mansion in the style of 
 the age of Louis XIV. ; valuable pictures adorn some of 
 the apartments, and the entrance-hall contains several 
 French cuirasses and helmets of brass, broustht from the 
 field of Waterloo. The mansions of Cairnbroe and St. 
 Enoch's Hall, both on the North Calder; Cleland ; 
 Carfin ; Jerviston ; and Douglas Park, are all superior 
 residences, standing in the midst of interesting scenery ; 
 and Bothwell Park, a handsome and commanding man- 
 sion, has a fine view of the fertile haughs of Hamilton, 
 and of the vale of Clyde. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Hamilton and synod of 
 
 
 t
 
 BOTR 
 
 B O UR 
 
 Glasgow and Ayr : the stipend of the minister is £282. 
 14. 8., with a good manse, and a glebe valued at £36 
 per annum ; patron, the Duke of Hamilton. The church, 
 opened in 1833, is a superior building in the pointed 
 style of architecture, and measures seventy-two feet by 
 forty-five, containing 1200 sittings; the cost of the 
 building was £4200, and it has a good bell, provided by 
 the' parish at an expense of £150, and a clock which cJst 
 £133, raised by voluntary subscription. A church was 
 some years ago erected at Holytown, late a quoad sacra 
 parish ; and there are meeting-houses at Bellshill and 
 Newarthill belonging to the United Presbyterian Synod. 
 The members of the Free Church have likewise two 
 places of worship, one at Bothwell, the other at Holy- 
 town. Three parochial schools are supported, situated 
 respectively at Bothwell, Holytown, and Newarthill, the 
 master of the first of which has a salary of £34. 4. 4., a 
 house, and £70 fees ; the others have £S. 1 1. each : the 
 classics, mathematics, and all the usual branches of edu- 
 cation are taught. 
 
 The chief relic of antiquity in the parish is the magni- 
 ficent ruin of the ancient castle, situated near the modern 
 castle, on the summit of a verdant slope, in the midst of 
 beautiful woods and pleasure-grounds. The old church, 
 which was originally the choir of the collegiate church 
 (the most famous of the five collegiate churches in La- 
 narkshire), is a very fine specimen of ancient architec- 
 ture ; it was built about 1398, and disused as a church 
 in 1828. Bothwell bridge, across the Clyde, is of great 
 antiquity, though the age is not precisely known ; it 
 originally consisted of four arches, each spanning forty- 
 five feet, and measuring fifteen feet in breadth, but it has 
 been considerably enlarged within these few years, by 
 which an additional width of road is obtained. There 
 is another bridge, supposed to be of Roman construction, 
 across the South Calder, consisting of one arch of semi- 
 circular form, high and narrow, without parapets ; it is 
 thought to have been on the line of the great Roman 
 Watling-street, which ran through this part of the 
 country, along the north-east bank of the Clyde. Cha- 
 lybeate springs are very numerous in the district, and 
 many of them are strongly sulphuretted. The celebrated 
 Joanna Baillie was born in the manse, during the meum- 
 bency of her father, the Rev. James Baillie. 
 
 BOTRIPHNIE, a parish, in the county of Banff, 
 .5i miles (S. W.) from Keith ; containing 714 inhabit- 
 ants. This parish, which is situated in the narrowest 
 part of the county, is bounded by Aberdeenshire on the 
 south, and on the north by Moray, and measures about 
 four miles and a half from north to south, and three 
 miles from east to west. It consists principally of a 
 beautiful vale, lying between two ridges of hills, respec- 
 tively on the north and south ; and comprises 9386 
 acres, of which 4360 are in tillage, 3540 waste and pas- 
 ture (430 of these being considered capable of profitable 
 cultivation), and 1486 acres under natural wood and in 
 plantations. The strath is watered by the small river 
 Isla, which, taking its rise at a loch in the western por- 
 tion, runs between banks beautifully ornamented with 
 alder and birch trees. The soil is a rich black loam in 
 some places, and in others a strong clay, incumbent on 
 a bed of limestone, replete with numerous springs of fine 
 water. A large extent of land, consisting of alluvial 
 soil, has been added in later times to the cultivated 
 ground, by the straightening of the course of the river, 
 155 
 
 and now produces in good seasons heavy crops of grain. 
 Extensive tracts, also, of moor or rough pasture have 
 been brought under tillage, chiefly by the use of lime 
 obtained from the limestone so plentiful in the locality. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £2620. 
 The only mansion is Botriphnie House, a shooting-seat. 
 A public road from the upper districts passes throughto 
 Keith and Banff, and has two branches near the centre 
 (if the parish, one leading to Huntly, and the other to 
 Fochabers and Elgin. A fair, called Fumach fair from 
 a tutelary saint, is held on the 15th of February for 
 general commodities and for horses, few, however, of the 
 latter being brought for sale. Ecclesiastically the parish 
 is in the presbytery of Strathbogie, synod of Moray, and 
 in the patronage of the Earl of Fife ; the minister's sti- 
 pend is about £178, with a manse, and a glebe of six 
 acres, valued at £10 per annum. The church was built 
 in 1820, and has lately been repaired and renovated. 
 The parochial school affords instruction in the usual 
 branches ; the master has a salary of £30, with a house, 
 £7 fees, and a share of the Dick bequest. 
 
 BOURTIE, a parish, in the district of Garioch, 
 county of Aberdeen, 1| mile (S.W.) from Old Meldrum; 
 containing 469 inhabitants. This parish in figure re- 
 sembles an irregular triangle. It measures five miles in 
 length from east to west, and about two in average 
 breadth, and comprises 5000 acres, of which nearly 
 3600 are under cultivation, 360 in plantations, consisting 
 chiefly of Scotch fir and larch, 1000 uncultivated and 
 waste, and a few acres covered with moss, supplying 
 peat. The surface is distinguished by two bold eleva- 
 tions, about 600 feet in height, rising nearly in the 
 middle of the parish, a mile from each other; the one 
 on the north being called the Hill of Barra, and the 
 other the Hill of Lawhill-side. They run towards the 
 east, to the extremity of the district, and, uniting there, 
 terminate in the Hill of Kingoody. In some parts of 
 the parish the soil is a strong clay, but more frequently 
 a light loam, and the principal crops are oats, turnips, 
 potatoes, and various grasses : the rotation of crops 
 practised here, as in most other parts of the county, is 
 what is called the seven-shift, which is considered the 
 most suitable to the nature of the land. Between 300 
 and 400 acres of waste have been brought under cultiva- 
 tion within the last few years, and nearly two-thirds of 
 the remaining portion of waste land are considered 
 capable of the same improvement. The rocks are of 
 the trap formation, and some suppose that the summit 
 of the Hill of Barra is the crater of an ancient volcano. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £3150. 
 There are two gentlemen's seats, Bourtic House and 
 Barra, the latter of which is a venerable castle, forming 
 three sides of a quadrangle, with turrets at two of the 
 angles. The road from Aberdeen to Banff passes through 
 a corner of the district. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 in the presbytery of Garioch, synod of Aberdeen, and 
 in the patronage of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is 
 about £230, with a manse, and a glebe, valued at £10 
 per aimum. The church, situated in about the centre 
 of the parish, is a plain structure containing 300 sittings, 
 built in 1807. The parochial school affords instruction 
 in the ordinary branches of education ; the master has 
 a salary of £30, with a house, and £8 fees. Several 
 cairns and Druidical circles are to be seen ; but the 
 chief relic of antiquity is a fortification on the Hill of 
 
 X2
 
 BO W D 
 
 BO WD 
 
 Barra, called " Cummings' Camp " from having been 
 either constructed or used by the Cummings, who were 
 proprietors of the greater part of Buchan at the time of 
 the celebrated engagement which took place near In- 
 verury, when they were routed by King Robert Bruce. 
 
 BOWDEN, a parish, in the district of Melrose, 
 county of Roxburgh, 3 miles (S. by E.) from Melrose; 
 containing, with the villages of Bowden and Midlem, 
 85" inhabitants, of whom 253 are in the village of 
 Bowden. This parish, in ancient records, is called 
 Bothenden, Botheldene, and Boulden. Early in the 
 twelfth century it was granted to the abbey of Selkirk, 
 by a charter of David I., in which it is designated by the 
 first of these names ; and in subsequent charters, con- 
 firming that grant, bestowed by Malcolm IV. in 1159, 
 and by Walter, Bishop of Glasgow, in 1232, it is men- 
 tioned by the latter appellations, probably corruptions 
 of the former. The monks had a grange at Holydean, 
 in this parish, which in the sixteenth century was given 
 by royal charter to Sir Walter Ker of Cessford, ancestor 
 of the Dukes of Roxburghe, as a reward for his services 
 during the border warfare. A strong fortress was 
 erected by the proprietor on the lands of Holydean, 
 which was occasionally the residence of the family ; but 
 at present very little is remaining, the greater portion 
 having been removed during the minority of John, the 
 third duke, by his grace's agent, to furnish materials 
 for the erection of a large farm-house and offices. The 
 court-yard, comprising an area of nearly an acre, was 
 inclosed with walls of stone, four feet in thickness and 
 sixteen feet high, pierced at intervals for the discharge 
 of arrows and musketry, and having an arched gateway 
 defended with a strong portcullis. Within the inclosure 
 were two strong towers, the one three, and the other 
 five, stories high, containing many spacious apartments, 
 and every requisite for a baronial residence. Part of 
 the wall on the south side is remaining, but greatly 
 dilapidated ; and near it is the ancient well of the 
 castle, which affords a supply of excellent water to the 
 family living at the farm-house. About 500 acres of 
 the farm of Holydean are inclosed with a wall of loose 
 stones, which has stood for more than three centuries, 
 and is still in good condition ; this inclosure is called in 
 an old lease the " Great Deer Park of Haliedean ". 
 
 The parish is situated on the river Ale, by which it is 
 bounded on the south, and is about five miles and a 
 half in length, and four and a half in breadth, com- 
 prising above 6000 acres, of which 3460 are arable, 
 2531 meadow aud pasture, 260 woodland and planta- 
 tions, and 30 acres garden and orchards. Its surface is 
 broken by a series of parallel ridges, extending from 
 east to west, and declining in height towards the south, 
 between which arc fertile valleys of various breadth, 
 watered by rivulets flowing eastward into the Tweed ; 
 and towards the south-west are some smaller streams, 
 that fall into the river Ale. One of the Eildon hills, 
 and part of another, rising in three conical summits, 
 to the height of 900 feet above the general level, and 
 about 1360 above that of the sea, are within the limits 
 of the parish, and form conspicuous objects in the land- 
 scape. The scenery is pleasingly enriched with planta- 
 tions of modern growth, and the several demesnes of 
 the chief proprietors contain many trees of lofty and 
 venerable appearance. In the ancient deer-park of the 
 Duke of Roxburghe is some fine timber j at Holydean is a 
 156 
 
 wood forming the only remains of natural forest in this 
 neighbourhood, and around the churchyard are some of 
 the largest sycamores and ash-trees in the country. 
 
 Tow ards the north and west, the soil is a stiff clay of 
 considerable depth ; in the southern part, especially on 
 the ridges, lighter and more friable ; and in the valleys, 
 a rich deep loam. The substratum is generally whin- 
 stone ; and in some parts are considerable tracts of 
 moss, below which shell marl is found, resting on a layer 
 of fine blue clay. The system of agriculture is highly 
 improved, and the crops are favourable ; lime, marl, 
 bone-dust, and guano are the principal manures. The 
 lands are all inclosed and subdivided : most of the 
 fences are thorn-hedges, with hedge-row trees. Con- 
 siderable improvements have been made in draining, 
 and in the breed of sheep and cattle, of which great 
 numbers are fed : the sheep are mostly of the Leicester 
 and the Cheviot kinds, and occasionally a cross between 
 them, which is on the increase ; the cattle are chiefly 
 of the short-horned breed. Numbers of small Highland 
 cattle are pastured here during the winter, and fattened 
 in the summer and sold to the butchers. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £4963. Among 
 the seats is Kippilaw, a handsome mansion, pleasantly 
 situated in a demesne embellished with timber of luxu- 
 riant growth ; Cavers and Linthill are also pleasant, 
 and on the north bank of the Ale, to which the lawns 
 in front have a gentle slope. The village contains little 
 that is remarkable, except an ancient cross in the 
 centre, the date of which is unknown : there were lately 
 removed the remains of one or two small towers or 
 peels, of which there were several within the last thirty 
 years, containing in the lower part a place for cattle, 
 and in the upper, apartments for the family, to which 
 access was afforded by a stone staircase outside. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Selkirk, synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and in the 
 patronage of the Duke of Roxburghe ; the minister's 
 stipend is about £210, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £15 per annum. Bowden church, situated near the 
 eastern extremity of the parish, is an ancient structure, 
 of which the original foundation is unknown ; it affords 
 accommodation for nearly 400 persons, and is in a state 
 of good repair. The oldest date that appears on any 
 part of the building is 1666. Under the east end is 
 the funereal vault of the Ker family, containing twenty- 
 one coffins, ranged along the sides of the building, 
 among which are those of five Dukes of Roxburghe, pre- 
 decessors of the present duke. There are places of wor- 
 ship for members of the Free Church and United Original 
 Seceders. Two parochial schools were until lately sup- 
 ported, one in the village of Bowden, and the other in 
 that of Midlem, but the latter has been discontinued as 
 a parochial school ; the master of the former has a 
 salary of £30 per annum, with a house and garden rent- 
 free, and the fees produce about £12. 
 
 The remains of a military road, with stations or camps 
 of a circular form at intervals of more than two miles, 
 uniformly occupying eminences in view of each other, 
 may be traced in various places, extending across the 
 centre of the parish, in a direction from south-east to 
 north-west. Where not obliterated by the plough, the 
 road may be traced, in the form of a ditch about twenty 
 feet in width, and, in some places, in the form of two 
 parallel ditches, with an interval between them fifty
 
 BOW E 
 
 B O YN 
 
 feet in width. Warlike instruments of different kinds 
 have been discovered by the plough, in the immediate 
 neighbourhood of the road, and also in the adjacent 
 mosses. On the summit of a precipice at Holydean, 
 nearly 150 yards from the principal farm-house, and 
 overhanging a deep dell called Ringans-Dean, was an 
 ancient chapel and burying-place ; the foundations of the 
 building may yet be traced, and grave-stones, handles of 
 coffins, and human bones have been frequently found 
 near the site. It has been conjectured that from this 
 ecclesiastical establishment the place derived the name 
 of Holydean. Trees of various kinds, and of very large 
 dimensions, have been discovered in the mosses of the 
 parish, while digging for peat and marl ; they are chiefly 
 oak, ash, and fir, and have been found generally at a 
 considerable depth below the surface, and in a good state 
 of preservation. 
 
 BOWER, a parish, in the county of Caithness, H 
 miles (S. E. by E.) from Thurso, and the same distance 
 (N. W.) from Wick; containing 16S9 inhabitants. This 
 place is said to derive its name from a Danish word 
 signifying " a valley ", and the application of the term 
 to this locality seems to be by no means inappropriate. 
 The parish is about twelve miles long, and four broad, 
 and the surface is in general low and flat, being diver- 
 sified only by a ridge of green hills, of small elevation, 
 running from north to south, through the whole. On 
 an eminence in this ridge is a large perpendicular stone 
 called Stone Lude or Lutt, supposed to mark the sepul- 
 chre of some Danish or Norwegian chief who fell here. 
 The soil of the arable land consists mostly of strong 
 clay and loam, and the subsoil is clay ; in some of the 
 hollows and valleys a fine rich marl is obtained in great 
 abundance, and extensively and very beneficially used 
 as manure. The parish is altogether agricultural and 
 pastoral : the recent prevalence of sheep-farming has 
 diminished the importance of the former branch, and 
 given to the latter a decided predominance. Grain and 
 live stock are frequently sent to the south, being shipped 
 at Wick by steamers or trading vessels. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £4300. The 
 rocks are of the primitive class ; a vein of copper was 
 discovered some time ago, but was never worked. 
 Barrack House and Stempster House, both of them 
 modern edifices; Stanstill ; and Tister, are the prin 
 cipal residences. The population is scattered among 
 the rural districts : of late years, many, in consequence 
 of the expulsion of agricultural labourers by the exten- 
 sive introduction of sheep-farming, have been driven 
 to the moors, or to seek a livelihood in foreign lauds. 
 Four annual fairs are held here, namely, Campster fair, 
 on the Tuesday after St. Patrick's day ; Lyth fair, on the 
 second Tuesday of October ; St. Maud's, on the second 
 Tuesday in November (all O. S.) ; and Stanstill, held in 
 November. There is also a cattle-market every W\'dnes- 
 day from June till October, inclusive. The post-road, 
 which is in good condition, passes through the south- 
 west part of the parish for several miles, and there are 
 also some good county roads, one of which joins the post- 
 road above Halkirk, on the hill of Sordal. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Caithness, synod of Caithness and Sutherland ; patron. 
 Sir James Colquhoun, Bart. : the stipend of the 
 minister is about £190, with a manse and glebe, and 
 twenty-two acres allotted for pasture on a division of 
 157 
 
 commons. The church is ancient, and the number of 
 its sittings is computed at 440. A parochial school is 
 supported, at which the usual branches are taught. 
 Here are several Druidical circles or temples, and 
 numerous tumuli ; the most striking relic is the cairn 
 of Heather Cow, which is surrounded by six or seven 
 circles of large stones, and situated on an eminence 
 commanding an extensive prospect. 
 
 BOWLING-BAY, a village, in the parish of Old 
 KiLPATRiCK, county of Dumbarton, 5 miles (E. by S.) 
 from Dumbarton; containing \S'l inhabitants. It is 
 situated on the north bank of the Firth of Clyde, and 
 on the road which passes, close by the river, from 
 Glasgow to Dumbarton. The locality is very beautiful ; 
 and immediately opposite, on the south side of the 
 Clyde, is Erskine House, the fine seat of Lord Blantyre. 
 At this village the Forth and Clyde canal terminates. 
 There is a ship-building yard, and belonging to the 
 canal company is a basin, for the enlargement of which 
 an act was passed in 1846. In the same year an act 
 was passed for the construction of a railway from 
 Glasgow, by Bowling-Bay, to Dumbarton, Loch Lomond, 
 and Helensburgh. 
 
 BOWMORE, a village and small sea-port, in the 
 parish of Kilarrow, district of Islay, county of Argyll, 
 IQi miles (S. S. W.) from Port-Askaig. This place is 
 situated on the eastern shore of Loch Indal. The vil- 
 lage was first commenced in 1768, and consists of several 
 well-formed and regular streets, intersecting each other 
 at right angles, of which the principal, a spacious street, 
 leads from the quay by a gradual ascent to the church ; 
 and another, crossing this at right angles, terminates at 
 the parochial school. The houses are generally neatly 
 built, though in some of the smaller streets are many of 
 inferior appearance. Since its commencement the vil- 
 lage has rapidly increased in extent and population, and 
 it is now the seat of the presbytery of Islay and Jura. 
 A neat building, containing a spacious assembly-room, 
 has been erected, to which is attached a room for the 
 temporary confinement of petty offenders. The environs 
 of Bowmore are pleasant, and derive much interest from 
 the grounds of Islay House. A very extensive distillery 
 of whisky is carried on here ; and there are several 
 vessels belonging to the port employed in the coasting- 
 trade, which is considerable. The harbour is commo- 
 dious, and accessible to the quay, for vessels drawing 
 eight or nine feet water, at ordinary tides ; the quay, 
 which was constructed by Mr. Campbell, is substan- 
 tial and well adapted to the purpose. A post-office 
 with a daily delivery has been established ; and facility 
 of communication is afforded by a good road to Port- 
 Askaig, on the sound of Jura, where steam-boats from 
 various places touch in their passage. 
 
 BOWRIEFAULD, a village, in the parish of Dun- 
 NiCHEN, county of Forfar, '2 miles (W. by S.) from 
 Letham ; containing 109 inhabitants. 
 
 BOYNDIE, or BOINDIE, a parish, in the county of 
 Banff, 3 miles (VV.) from Banff; containing, with the 
 village of Whitehills, 1501 inhabitants. This place, to 
 which Banff was united from the era of the Reformation 
 to about the year 1635, was anciently called Inver- 
 boyndie, signifying " the mouth of the Boyndie ", in 
 consequence of the situation of the old church, now 
 in ruins, near the spot where the small stream of the 
 Boyndie falls into the sea. The word Boyndie is sup-
 
 BOYN 
 
 B R A C 
 
 posed to be a diminutive of Boyn, the name of a larger 
 stream bounding the parish on the west. The parish is 
 washed by the Moray Firth, and is nearly of triangular 
 form, the northern line measuring between two and 
 three miles, the south-eastern about five miles and a 
 half, and the western boundary between four and five 
 miles. It comprises about 6300 acres, of which 4540 
 are cultivated, 750 in plantations, and the remainder 
 uncultivated, waste, and pasture. The surface is level, 
 with the exception of the fine cultivated valley of the 
 Boyndie, and is but little elevated above the sea. On 
 the north the coast is in general rocky, with a portion 
 of sandy beach, and at the extremity is the Knockhead, 
 a headland running out into a reef of rocks, visible at 
 half-tide, called the Salt-Stones. Here the coast turns 
 southward, forming one side of a bay ; and the shore 
 between this point and the part where the Boyndie 
 empties itself into the sea, measures something less 
 than a mile, and consists of a beach of sand and gravel. 
 The harbours are, one at the fishing-village of White- 
 hills, of small extent, with about ten feet depth of water 
 at spring-tides, used by two or three vessels employed 
 in the herring-fishery, and the importation of salt, coal, 
 &c. ; and another a little to the east, at Blackpots, 
 affording also accommodation for the prosecution of the 
 herring and salmon fishings, and for the exportation of 
 tiles. 
 
 In the upper part of the parish the climate is humid 
 and bleak, but in the opposite part dry and salubrious. 
 The soil most prevalent is a light earth, on a retentive 
 subsoil ; the exceptions being certain tracts in the centre 
 of the parish, chiefly clay and loam of rich quality, 
 and some land in the eastern portion, consisting of a 
 deep, black, sandy mould on a porous subsoil, which 
 produces heavy and early crops. This parish was one 
 of the first in the north of Scotland in which the system 
 of alternate crops and turnip husbandry were practised, 
 having been introduced here about the year 1754 by the 
 last Earl of Findlater, at that time Lord Deskford, who 
 also formed the older plantations in the place. Oats 
 and barley are the principal kinds of grain ; and among 
 the green crops, the cultivation of turnips receives much 
 attention. The range of pasture is limited, but 1000 
 head of oxen are annually grazed, comprising the polled 
 Buchan and Banffshire horned breeds, with some crosses 
 with the Teeswater stock, many of which are fed for 
 the London market. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £4168. The rocks comprise grey- 
 wacke, primitive limestone, slate, and hornblende ; and 
 to the east of Whitehills is a diluvial clay in extensive 
 beds, containing specimens of belemnites, comua am- 
 monis, &c., and supplying material for a brick and tile 
 work. 
 
 In this parish the wood, consisting for the most part 
 of Scotch fir, with sprinklings of larch, beech, and other 
 trees, is generally in a thriving condition. Near the 
 ancient castle of Boyn are some portions of hard-wood, 
 which, being favoured by shelter and a superior soil, are 
 in an exceedingly flourishing state. This mansion, which 
 was the family seat of the Ogilvies till the transfer of 
 the estates to the ancestor of the present owner, at the 
 beginning of the last century, is beautifully situated at 
 the western extremity of the ()arish, on the Boyn water, 
 but is now ruinous. The surrounding scenery, among 
 which are visible the remains of a more ancient mansion, 
 158 
 
 is highly picturesque ; and attached to the castle is an 
 orchard, abounding in black and white wild cherries. 
 Agricultural pursuits occupy the greater part of the 
 population. The bleaching and preparation of threads 
 and stockings for market were formerly carried on to 
 some extent, but the only work connected with manu- 
 factures now existing is a wool-carding mill on the burn 
 of Boyn, attached to which are works for the weaving 
 and dyeing of cloth. There are a saw-mill, a lint-mill, 
 a flour and barley mill, and several meal-mills. The 
 turnpike-road from Banff to Portsoy and Inverness runs 
 through the parish, from east to west, and a branch 
 diverges to Keith and Huntly, besides which there are 
 several good county roads, and numerous bridges over 
 the streams, affording facility of communication. A 
 cattle-fair has been instituted at Ordens, which is held 
 eight times a year. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Fordyce, synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of 
 the Earl of Seafield ; the minister's stipend is about 
 £'200, with an excellent manse, lately built, and a glebe 
 valued at £1'2 per annum. Boyndie church, accommo- 
 dating 600 persons, was erected in 1*73 : the ruin of 
 the old edifice still remains, with its burial-ground, on a 
 site near the sea, where a battle with the Danes is sup- 
 posed to have taken place, in the reign of Malcolm II., 
 to whose personal friend, St. Bovenden or Brandon, a 
 monk, the edifice was dedicated. The members of the 
 Free Church and the Wesleyans have places of worship. 
 The parochial school affords instruction in Greek, Latin, 
 and mathematics, in addition to the usual branches ; the 
 master has a salary of £25. 12. 4., with £22. 12. fees, 
 and also shares in the Dick bequest. The Rev. James 
 Stewart, a native of the parish, in 1S09 left a sum now 
 amounting to £390, the produce to be equally divided 
 for the support of six poor persons, and for the edu- 
 cation of six boys, who are natives. There are several 
 remains of Druidical circles, of cairns, and military 
 works ; and various minor relics of antiquity have at 
 different times been found, the most interesting of which 
 are, a short Roman sword, deposited in the armoury at 
 Duff House, and a seal, composed of fine clay-slate, 
 marked with the arms of Bishop James Kennedy, who 
 founded the college of St. Salvator in the university of 
 St. Andrew's. Thomas Ruddiman, the well-known au- 
 thor of a Latin grammar, was a native of the parish. 
 
 BRACADALE, a parish, in the Isle of Skye, county 
 of Inverness, 12 miles (S. E.) from Dunvegan ; con- 
 taining 1824 inhabitants. This parish is washed on the 
 south and south-west by the sea ; it is about twenty 
 miles in length and eight in extreme breadth, and com- 
 prises 73,189 acres, of which 4S78 are arable, and the 
 remainder pasture and hill-grazing. The coast extends 
 for about sixty miles, and is very irregular, being in- 
 dented by numerous arms of the sea, and, though occa- 
 sionally flat, being in most parts bold and rocky, and the 
 beach very rough and stony. At the southern extremity 
 is the headland of Rhuandunan, and towards the west, 
 Tallisker-head, at the southern entrance of Loch Braca- 
 dale, which, and Loch Eynort, are the principal har- 
 bours, both affording convenient and secure anchorage 
 to vessels of any burthen. The chief islands are, Soay, 
 on the south-east ; and Vuiay and Taarner, situated at 
 the mouth of Loch Bracadale, opposite Tallisker-head, 
 to the north. In the interior the surface is generally
 
 B R A I 
 
 B REC 
 
 hilly, and the most conspicuous eminences are part of 
 the range of Coullin, highly picturesque in appearance, 
 and stretching along the boundary between this district 
 and Strath. A few detached fields are to he seen ad- 
 jacent to the coast, but the low grounds and valleys are 
 chiefly in that district called Minginish, where the vale 
 of Tallisker is particularly celebrated for its beautiful 
 scenery. Tiie parish is for the most part pastoral, and 
 about 4500 sheep, and 450 head of black-cattle, are 
 annually exported ; the soil near the bays is sandy or 
 clayey, but in some of the lower grounds remarkably 
 fertile : the small portions under tillage are always let 
 in. connexion with pasture. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £3921. The inhabitants 
 generally are exceedingly poor, and upon the lowest 
 scale with respect to clothing and food. The road from 
 Inverness to Dunvegan passes through the district, and 
 there are post-offices at Struan and Carbost. At Car- 
 bost is a celebrated distillery, the only one in the Isle of 
 Skye. A fair for the sale of black-cattle and sheep is 
 held at Sligtchan on the third Tuesday in September. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Skye, 
 synod of Glenelg, and in the patronage of the family of 
 Macleod of Macleod : the minister's stipend is £ 1 58. 6. S., 
 of which half is received from the exchequer; with a 
 manse, and a glebe of thirty acres, valued at £15 per 
 annum. The church, built in 1831, is conveniently 
 situated near the public road, and contains between 500 
 and 600 sittings. There is a place of worship for mem- 
 bers of the Free Church ; also an episcopal chapel, a 
 neat building, erected in 1838, and containing accommo- 
 dation for about 200 persons. A missionary is sup- 
 ported by the Royal Bounty, and the parochial school 
 affords instruction in Gaelic, English, writing, and arith- 
 metic ; the master has a salary of £28. 
 
 BRACO, a village, in that part of the parish of 
 McTHiLL which constituted a portion of the district of 
 Ardoch, county of Perth ; containing 370 inhabitants. 
 This village, which is rapidly increasing in extent, owes 
 its origin to the erection of a chapel of ease for the dis- 
 trict. The houses are neatly built, and it has already 
 attained some little importance : it is the resort of the 
 neighbouring farmers for the purchase of cattle, for 
 which two large fairs are held annually. Besides the 
 chapel of ease, there is a place of worship for members 
 of the Free Church. — See Ardoch. 
 
 BRAEHEAD, a village, in the parish of Carnwath, 
 Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 3^ miles (N.) 
 from Carnwath ; containing 312 inhabitants. This vil- 
 lage, which is |)leasautly situated on the road to Wilson- 
 town, is inhabited chiefly by persons engaged in agri- 
 cultural pursuits, and partly by others employed in 
 weaving at their own dwellings for the Glasgow and 
 Paisley manufacturers. There is a place of worship for 
 New Light Burghers. 
 
 BRAEMAR, Aberdeenshire. — See Crathie. 
 
 BRAGRUM, a hamlet, in the parish of Methven, 
 county of Perth ; containing 44 inhabitants. 
 
 BRAIDWOOD, a village, in the parish of Carluke, 
 Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 4 miles (N. W.) 
 from Lanark ; containing 234 inhabitants. It is on the 
 great Roman Watling-strect, and was formerly a pos- 
 session of the Earls and Marquesses of Douglas. In the 
 vicinity, limestone and ironstone are found ; and, on the 
 Braid wood estate, a vein of fine encrinal marble. 
 159 
 
 ^^SiS^ 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 BRECHIN, a burgh, 
 market-town, and parish, in 
 the county of Forfau, 8 
 miles (W. by N.) from Mon- 
 trose, and 66 (N. N. E.) from 
 Edinburgh; containing, with 
 the villages of Trinity-Muir 
 and Little Brechin, 7560 in- 
 habitants, of whom 2986 
 were in the late East quoad 
 sacra parish. This place 
 derives its name, of Gaelic 
 origin, from its situation on 
 an acclivity rising from the banks of the river South 
 Esk. It is of very considerable antiquity, and was 
 formerly the seat of a diocese, the cathedral of which is 
 now the church of the parish. During the wars between 
 the Scots and the English, in the reign of Edward I., Sir 
 Thomas Maule, lord of Brechin Castle, defended it for 
 sometime against the assaults of the English whom that 
 monarch had sent to reduce it, till, being killed by a 
 stone slung from an engine by the besiegers, the garrison 
 capitulated and surrendered the castle to the English. A 
 battle took place in the immediate vicinity in 1452, be- 
 tween the forces of the Earl of Huntly and those of the 
 Earl of Crawford, in which the latter were defeated, and 
 which, from the proximity of the spot whereon it was 
 fought, has been invariably called the battle of Brechin. 
 In 1573, Sir Andrew Gordon, an adherent of the unfor- 
 tunate Mary, Queen of Scots, and who was then be- 
 sieging the castle of Glenbervie, hearing that a party of 
 the king's friends were assembled at this place, attacked 
 them early in the morning, and surprised and cut off 
 the whole of the force. The castle of Brechin, a place 
 of great strength, and, from its situation on the summit 
 of an abrupt precipice, regarded, before the use of ar- 
 tillery, as impregnable, was long the baronial seat of the 
 family of Maule, afterwards created Earls of Panmure : 
 this title was forfeited on the rebellion of 1715, but the 
 nobility of the family was revived by William IV., at his 
 coronation, when be granted the title of Baron of Pan- 
 mure to their descendant. The building is of various 
 dates and styles of architecture, and the demesne abounds 
 with romantic and beautiful scenery, commanding a fine 
 view of the river. 
 
 Brechin is situated on the rising banks of the South 
 Esk river, over which, at the southern extremity of the 
 town, is a bridge of stone, supposed to be the most 
 ancient structure of the kind in the kingdom. The 
 town is neatly built, consisting of several well-formed 
 streets, and a spacious market-place nearly in the centre. 
 A handsome building in the Elizabethan style, with a 
 tower eighty feet high, has been erected at the west 
 entrance of Brechin, by Lord Panmure, for the use of a 
 literary and scientific institution ; it contains a lecture- 
 room and library, and many valuable paintings presented 
 by his lordship. The streets of the town are macadam- 
 ized, and the approaches have been levelled to render 
 the place easier of access. The trade arises principally 
 from weaving, and the several handicraft trades requisite 
 for the supply of the neighbourhood. There are two 
 mills for spinning flax, in which about 300 persons are 
 engaged ; and from 1200 to 1500 of the inhabitants are 
 employed in weaving coarse linens ; about sixty are em- 
 ployed in heckling, and from seventy to eighty in bleach-
 
 B REC 
 
 B REC 
 
 ing. Two distilleries for making whisky from malt have 
 been erected in the vicinity, which are conducted on an 
 extensive scale, and are in full operation. There are two 
 fishing stations on the South Esk, within the parish, 
 where salmon are taken in considerable numbers. The 
 post-office has a good delivery, and facility of intercourse 
 is afforded by various roads ; a bridge has been built at 
 Stannachy ford to continue a new road from Arbroath 
 to Dundee, and there is now a branch to the town of the 
 Aberdeen railway. The market, which is abundantly 
 supplied with corn and other agricultural produce, and 
 numerously attended by the farmers of a widely-ex- 
 tended district, is held weekly on Tuesday ; and there 
 are weekly marts for horses and cattle, from the last 
 Tuesday in February till the last Tuesday in March. 
 Fairs are held atTrinity-Muir, about a mile from the town, 
 four times in the year : one of these, on the second Wed- 
 nesday in June, for cattle, horses, and sheep, continues 
 three days, and is among the chief fairs in the county. 
 
 From time immemorial the town has been a royal 
 BURGH, and the government is vested in a provost, two 
 bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and a council of 
 eight burgesses, assisted by a town-clerk and other offi- 
 cers. . There are six incorporated trades, viz., the ham- 
 mermen, glovers, bakers, shoe-makers, weavers, and 
 tailors, all of whom, except the weavers, have the ex- 
 clusive privilege of carrying on trade within the burgh. 
 The provost, bailies, and dean of guild are magistrates 
 by virtue of their office, and their jurisdiction extends 
 over the whole of the royalty ; they hold a bailie-court 
 every Wednesday for the determination of civil pleas to 
 any amount, and also for the trial of criminal cases, in 
 which they are assisted by the town-clerk, who acts as 
 assessor. Brechin is associated with Arbroath, Bervie, 
 Forfar, and Montrose, in returning a member to the 
 imperial parliament. The franchise, previously vested 
 in the corporation, was extended by the act of the ^nd 
 and 3rd of William IV. to resident £10 householders. 
 The provost is the returning officer. The town-hall, 
 situated nearly in the centre of the town, was built in 
 the year 1789 ; it is a neat structure, containing, on the 
 first story, a good hall, with smaller apartments for the 
 meetings of the council, and below them a court-room 
 and a prison. 
 
 The p.\RisH comprises about 15,840 acres, of which 
 9840 are arable, 3260 woodland and plantations, and 
 '2740 rough pasture and waste. Its surface is generally 
 level, rising in some parts into gentle undulations, and 
 the only eminence that deserves the name of a hill is 
 that of Burghill, to the south of the town. The pre- 
 vailing scenery is agreeably diversified, and enlivened 
 with numerous thriving plantations : from several points 
 of view, the Grampian hills form a conspicuous feature 
 in the distant landscape. Though various, the soil is 
 mostly fertile ; the chief crops are oats, barley, wheat, 
 potatoes, and turnips. The lands are well drained, and 
 every recent improvement in husbandry has been adopted, 
 under the auspices of the Eastern Forfarshire Farming 
 Association. This society was established here in 1814 
 with the patronage of Lord Panmure, and has its meet- 
 ings in spring and autumn, when cattle-shows are held 
 on Trinity-Muir, and prizes are awarded to the most 
 successful competitors. The utmost attention is paid to 
 live stock : the sheep are of the black-faced breed, but 
 a very small number is kept ; the cattle are of the 
 160 
 
 Angus breed generally, with, of late, an occasional inter- 
 mixture of the short-horned or Tceswater. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £21,563, including 
 £7960 for the burgh. In the vicinity of the town are 
 three nurseries, comprising together about twenty-five 
 acres, well stocked with forest-trees for stipplying the 
 plantations of the district, and with fruit-trees of vari- 
 ous kinds, and ornamental shrubs and evergreens. There 
 are also several orchards. The substrata are chiefly the 
 old red sandstone, with limestone, and also sandstone of 
 a greyish colour, of good quality for building, and sus- 
 ceptible of a high polish ; of this stone the tower and 
 spire of the old cathedral were built. The limestone is 
 extensively quarried for burning into lime for agricul- 
 tural purposes, and there are at present three lime-works 
 in operation ; also several quarries of freestone. 
 
 In an ecclesiastical point of view the parish is the seat 
 of the presbytery of Brechin, in the synod of Angus and 
 Mearns. The church has two ministers, respectively of 
 the first and second charges. The stipend of the first 
 charge is about £2S0, and the minister resides in a 
 house erected about fifty or sixt}' years since, in lieu of 
 the episcopal palace, by the exchequer, and to which is 
 attached about an acre of garden ground : the stipend 
 of the second charge is about £270, with a manse, and 
 a glebe valued at £30 per annum. The church is the 
 nave of the ancient cathedral ; it is in good repair, and 
 adapted for a congregation of 1500 persons. A church 
 containing 864 sittings was erected under an act of the 
 General Assembly, in 1836, for a district of the parish 
 called East-Church ; and the minister derived his in- 
 come, £150, from seat-rents and collections : since the 
 recent secession from the Church of Scotland, the church 
 has ceased to be used in connexion with the Establish- 
 ment. There are congregations of members of the Free 
 Church, the United Presbyterian Synod, and Antiburgh- 
 ers. An Episcopal chapel, erected about twenty or thirty 
 years since, has been lately enlarged and beautified, and 
 is a handsome edifice ; the western gable is surmounted 
 by a cross, and flanked at the angles with minarets. There 
 are parochial and burgh schools, and a grammar school ; 
 the parochial teacher has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with fees, 
 and £10 paid by the magistrates from the burgh funds 
 in lieu of a house and garden. The rector of the gram- 
 mar school is appointed by the corporation, and is also 
 preceptor of the hospital of Maison Dieu, of which he en- 
 joys the revenue, amounting to £50 per annum. There 
 is a parochial library, containing about 600 volumes ; and 
 circulating libraries are kept by the booksellers in the 
 town. The above hospital,formerly attached to the cathe- 
 dral establishment, affords weekly a small allowance to 
 the poor ; there is a society of ladies for the rehef of in- 
 digent females, and a dispensary was established some 
 years since, with the proceeds of a bequest by Mrs. Speid 
 of Ardovie. 
 
 Some remains yet exist of the ancient chapel called 
 Maison Dieu ; and a round tower nearly adjoining the 
 cathedral, and supposed to be of Pictish origin, is still 
 entire, and an object of much interest. It is a lofty 
 slender column of very ancient character, and in high 
 easterly winds is observed to vibrate. The remains of 
 the cathedral consists chiefly of the nave and tower ; 
 the western entrance is of beautiful design, and the in- 
 terior is lighted by a spacious window above the door- 
 way, and the roof supported by a range of clustered
 
 B II E S 
 
 B R ES 
 
 columns and pointed arches : the choir was destroyed at 
 the Reformation. At the eastern extremity ot the parish 
 is a cemetery, which is still called St. Magdalen's Chapel, 
 the memorial, perhaps, of an edifice of that name. Mr. 
 Guthrie, author of the Historical and Geographical Gram- 
 mar ; Maitland, the laborious historian of London and 
 of Edinburgh ; Dr. John Gillies, historiographer for 
 Scotland to His Majesty ; and his brother, the Honour- 
 able Adam Gillies, one of the senators of the College of 
 Justice, were all natives of Brechin. 
 
 BRESSAY, BURRA, and QUARFF, a parish, in 
 the county of Orkney and Shetland ; containing 179S 
 inhabitants, of whom 904 are in the island of Bressay, 
 and 8*0 in the late quoad sacra district of Burra and 
 Quarff. These three ancient parishes, now united, com- 
 prehend six islands and a part of the tract called Main- 
 land. The district of Bressay is to the east of the main- 
 land, and consists of the islands of Bressay and Ness, 
 separated from each other by Ness Sound, and from the 
 mainland by Bressay Sound. Bressay island, which is 
 nearly six miles long, and varies in breadth from two to 
 three miles, exhibits a highly-diversified surface, es- 
 pecially in the western portion, where the rugged features 
 of the coast, the tracts of arable land stretching from 
 south to north, and sloping to the sea, interspersed with 
 cottages, with lofty hills rising in various directions, 
 contribute to form a scene marked to a considerable 
 extent by beauty and grandeur. Among the elevated 
 ridges running in irregular lines through the island, and 
 the spaces between which are covered with a mixture of 
 pasture and peat-moss, is a dorsal eminence on the 
 eastern side, called St. Andrew's or Ander hill, upwards 
 of 400 feet in height. At the southern extremity is a 
 lofty elevation called the Ward ; also Beacon hill, rising 
 7'24 feet above the level of the sea, and which is covered 
 with peat-moss and various kinds of short grass and 
 heath : its sombre hue and majestic height render it a 
 striking object in the scenery. The coast is every where 
 rocky, abounding with fissures, caverns, and headlands, 
 the last chiefly in the southern portion of the island ; 
 and there are twelve lochs, which, however, are of very 
 inconsiderable dimensions, only two or three having the 
 extent of half a mile in length or breadth : some of them 
 are celebrated for their fine trout. 
 
 There are several sounds or channels, formed by, and 
 taking their names respectively from, the islands to 
 which they are adjacent. The chief is Bressaij Sound, 
 which expands into a fine bay towards QuarfF, on the 
 south, where its waters deepen, and afford excellent 
 anchorage for vessels in stress of weather. Many hun- 
 dreds of Dutch boats, in time past, used to resort hither 
 to fish for herrings ; but the sound has derived its 
 greatest celebrity from other circumstances. In this 
 fine harbour, the fleet of King Haco was moored several 
 days after sailing from Norway in his unsuccessful ex- 
 pedition against Scotland. In later times, the notorious 
 Earl of Bothwell, who had fled to Shetland for safety, 
 being pursued in his adversity by Kirkaldy of Grange, 
 with great difficulty escaped by sailing out at the north- 
 ern entrance of the sound, in which direction his enemy's 
 vessel, attempting to follow him, was wrecked on a very 
 dangerous rock, since called the Unicorn after the name 
 of the shij). The other channels are, Ness Sound, less 
 than a quarter of a mile broad, supposed to be about 
 twenty feet deep, and dangerous to pass with an easterly 
 Vol. I.— 161 
 
 wind; Cliff Sound, not quite half a mile broad, with nine 
 or ten fathoms of water, and of difficult navigation in 
 stormy weather ; and Stream and Burra Sounds, the latter 
 of wliich is the safest and most tranquil of the whole, 
 and peculiarly adapted to small vessels. 
 
 The quantity of land under tillage is small compared 
 with the waste, and employed chiefly in the cultivation 
 of oats, bear, and potatoes, the two first being sown in 
 alternate years, and potatoes once in four or five years. 
 The soil is manured with a compost of sea-weed, dung, 
 and mossy earth, and with the garbage of herrings : the 
 last is held in high repute for the purpose. Some im- 
 provements have been made in agriculture within these 
 few years, chiefly in rebuilding the farm-cottages in a 
 superior manner; but various obstacles, the want of 
 leases, the state of the roads, and especially the poverty 
 of the inhabitants and their extensive occupation in 
 fishing, repress all systematic attempts to establish agri- 
 culture on a good footing. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is ilS^?. The rocks in Bressay 
 and Ness are the old red sandstone ; in Quarff, clay-slate 
 and mica slate ; and in the isles of House, Burra, and 
 Halvera, of the primitive formation. At Bressay there 
 are flag and slate quarries in operation, the produce of 
 which is shipped to different parts of the country, and 
 sometimes sent to the south ; and in QuarfF and Burra 
 several species of limestone of inferior quality are found. 
 The lands appear to have been formerly better wooded 
 than they are at present, trunks of trees, of some bulk, 
 being found among the mosses. The only plantations 
 recently made are in the vicinity of the mansion-house, 
 and consist of willow and ash, the former being the most 
 flourishing ; and near these, of older growth, are aspen, 
 elm, laburnum, poplar, and plane trees, which seem to 
 be in a thriving condition. 
 
 A large proportion of the population is engaged in the 
 flsheries, the principal of which are those of ling, cod, 
 and herrings. Various other kinds of fish, such as tusk, 
 halibut, skate, whiting, and flounders, are taken at dif- 
 ferent times ; and sillocks, on which the inhabitants to 
 a considerable extent live, are taken throughout the 
 whole year : oysters, also, are found at Burra in abund- 
 ance. The ling-fishing employs about thirty boats, 
 generally carrying six men each. The cod-fishery, be- 
 ginning about Whitsuntide, occupies numerous sloops of 
 between fifteen and twenty tons' burthen ; and at the 
 termination of this fishing that for herrings commences 
 (usually in the month of August), in which tiie same 
 boats are employed as those engaged in the ling-fishing, 
 with some of larger size. About thirty women and 
 children are employed in Bressay, during the season, in 
 curing herrings ; and the manufacture of herring-nets has 
 recently excited much interest among the inhabitants : 
 nearly every female in Quarff above six years of age is 
 occupied in knitting woollen-gloves, and those in Burra 
 in knitting stockings. For ecclesiastical purposes the 
 parish is in the presbytery of Lerwick, synod of Shetland, 
 and in the patronage of the Earl of Zetland ; the 
 minister's stipend is £158. 6. 8., with a manse, rebuilt 
 in 1819, and a glebe valued at £1-2 per annum. The 
 church, which is conveniently situated, was erected in 
 1815, and contains 370 sittings. There are places of 
 worship for dissenters. The parochial schoolmaster has 
 a salary of £25. 13., and teaches reading, writing, arith- 
 metic, and book-keeping. — See Burka, Ness, &c. 
 
 Y
 
 B R I D 
 
 B RO A 
 
 BRIDEKIRK, Dumfries.— See Brydekirk. 
 
 BRIDGE OF ALLAN.— See Allan, Bridge of. 
 And all places having a similar distinguishing prefix, will 
 be found under the proper name. 
 
 BRIDGEND, a village, ia the parish of Kilarrow, 
 district of Islay, county of Argyll, 3 miles (N.) from 
 Bowmore. This village is situated at the north-eastern 
 extremity of Loch Indal ; and there is a good road to 
 Port-Askaig, distant, in a north-eastern direction, about 
 eight miles. A branch post-office has been established 
 under Bowmore, and a justice-of-peace court is held 
 here. The grounds of Islay House are almost in con- 
 tact with the village. 
 
 BRIDGEND, a hamlet, in the parish of Lintra- 
 THEN, county of Forfar; containing 31 inhabitants. It 
 is situated a short distance from the parish church. 
 
 BRIDGEND, a village, in the parish of Ruthven, 
 county of Forfar; containing ITi inhabitants. 
 
 BRIDGEND, a burgh of barony, in the parish of 
 Kinnoull, county of Perth ; containing 1737 inha- 
 bitants. This village forms a suburb to the city of 
 Perth. It derives its name from the erection of a bridge 
 over the Tay, connecting the parishes of Perth and Kin- 
 noull, between which all communication after the de- 
 struction of the old bridge in 1621 was by a ferry, till 
 the completion of the present structure in 1771- Prior 
 to this date, the village consisted only of a few cottages, 
 inhabited by the boatmen employed on the ferry ; but 
 from the greater facility of intercourse with Perth, it has 
 rapidly increased in extent and importance, and at 
 present contains nearly three-fifths of the population of 
 the parish. The streets are regularly formed, and lighted 
 with gas ; the houses are substantially built, and along 
 the banks of the river, and on the rising ground, are 
 numerous elegant villas, surrounded with scenery richly 
 diversified. The village of Bridgend was erected into a 
 burgh of barony, in favour of the Earl of Kinnoull, by 
 charter, which also conferred the privileges of a weekly 
 market and several annual fairs, now in disuse. 
 
 BRIDGEND, or Kendrochad, a hamlet, in the 
 parish of Kenmore, county of Perth ; containing 6s 
 inhabitants. In the vicinity is a small school. 
 
 BRIDGEND, a village, in the parish of Rosskeen, 
 county of Ross and Cromarty; containing 413 inha- 
 bitants. This place is also called the Bridgend of All- 
 ness, it being considered as part of the village of Allness, 
 the other part of which is in the parish of that name, 
 the river Allness dividing the entire village into nearly 
 equal portions. A market, chiefly for cattle, is held here 
 monthly. At Mossfield, in the vicinity, is a school, es- 
 tablished in the year 1824. 
 
 BRIDGEND, SOUTH, a village, in the parish of 
 MuTHiLL, county of Perth ; with 1 18 inhabitants. 
 
 BRIDGEND, WEST, a village, in the parish of 
 Cardross, county of Dumbarton ; containing 799 in- 
 habitants. It is a suburb of the town of Dumbarton ; 
 and the United Presbyterian Synod have a place of 
 worship in it. 
 
 BRIDGENESS, a village, in the parish of Carriden, 
 county of Linlithgow, 1 mile (E.) from Bo'ness ; con- 
 taining 89 inhabitants. It is situated on the south 
 shore of the Firth of Forth, and its population is engaged 
 in the works in the vicinity. There is an excellent pier 
 here, which some years since was extended about 1.50 
 feet further into the sea, in order to improve the accora- 
 162 
 
 modation, by securing a greater depth of water for the 
 vessels by which the harbour is frequented. The vessels 
 are chiefly employed in the export of coal and salt, and 
 the import of manure and limestone. As many as 300 
 coasters, varying from twenty to 100 tons' burthen, 
 annually enter from different ports in Scotland ; and 
 about ten foreign ships, of greater tonnage, yearly take in 
 coal at this place. Formerly, chemical-works were esta- 
 blished here, for the manufacture of vitriol and sulphuric- 
 acid ; but they have been some time relinquished. 
 
 BRIDGETON, formerly a quoad sacra parish, con- 
 sisting of part of Barony parish, in the suburbs of 
 Glasgow, county of Lanark ; containing, according to 
 the last census, 3583 inhabitants. The village of Bridge- 
 ton, which takes its name from its vicinity to the bridge 
 over the Clyde leading to Rutherglen, is partly indebted 
 for its origin to Mr. John Walkinshaw, who in 170.5 
 purchased some lands eastward of the city, which he 
 divided into building lots, for the formation of a village, 
 then called Barrowfield. In 1724, however, he had let 
 only nineteen small portions, and the land was subse- 
 quently purchased by the corporation, in conjunction 
 with the Trades' House, who in 1731 conveyed it to Mr. 
 John Orr, merchant, of Glasgow, who, being more suc- 
 cessful in disposing of the ground, may be regarded as 
 the founder of the present town. This now flourishing 
 village contains, according to the last census, above 
 14,000 persons. It stands on the north side of the river, 
 to the south-east of Calton, and, like that place, consists 
 of several spacious and well-formed streets. The houses 
 are generally built of stone, and roofed with slates ; but 
 a considerable number are built of brick, and roofed 
 with tiles, for the manufacture of which clay of excellent 
 quality is found in the immediate vicinity. The popula- 
 tion are chiefly employed in the cotton manufacture, and 
 other works in the neighbourhood of the city. There 
 are seven or eight extensive factories, two large dye and 
 print works, a most extensive gas-work for supplying 
 the village and adjacent city with gas, and numerous 
 shops for the supply of the inhabitants with groceries 
 and various kinds of merchandise. The parish, consist- 
 ing of part of the village, was formed in 1837, underact of 
 the General Assembly. The church is a neat structure, 
 erected by the Church-Building Society of Glasgow, and 
 contains 1024 sittings. It is now rented by members of 
 the Free Church, and in the village is also a large place 
 of worship in connexion with the United Presbyterian 
 Synod. There are two spacious schoolrooms. 
 
 BRIDGETOWN, a village, in the parish of Red- 
 gorton, county of Perth ; with 97 inhabitants. 
 
 BROADHAVEN, a village, in the parish of Wick, 
 county of Caithness, 1 mile (E.) from Wick; contain- 
 ing 170 inhabitants. This village is situated at the head 
 of the haven from which it takes its name, and extends 
 along the northern shore of the bay of Wick. It is in- 
 habited chiefly by persons engaged in the fishery. The 
 haven, which affords good shelter for vessels, is formed 
 by the head of Wick on the south, and the headland of 
 Papigo on the north, both of which extend considerably 
 into the Moray Firth. 
 
 BROADSEA, a village, in the parish of Fraser- 
 burgh, district of Deer, county of Aberdeen ; con- 
 taining 326 inhabitants. This is a fishing village, situ- 
 ated a short distance west of the town of Fraserburgh, 
 in a small bay near Kinuaird Head.
 
 B RO U 
 
 B ROU 
 
 BROCKLEHURST, OLD, a hamlet, in the parish of 
 MouswALD, county of Dumfries; containing 39 inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 BRODICK, a village, in the parish of Kilbride, 
 Isle of Arran, county of Bute ; containing 163 inha- 
 bitants. It is seated in a semicircular bay of the same 
 name, on the eastern coast of the island, defended at its 
 entrance by the islet of Laralash, or Holy Island ; and 
 to the south is a lighthouse. The castle of Brodick, 
 now called Arran House, stands on an eminence above 
 the bay. A place of worship has been built, and one of 
 the parochial schools is situated in the village. An an- 
 nual fair is held. — See Kilbride. 
 
 BROOMKNOLL, Lanarkshire. — See Airdrie. 
 BROOMLANDS, a hamlet, in the parish of In- 
 CHiNNAN, LTpper ward of the county of Renfrew ; con- 
 taining 79 inhabitants. It is one of two assemblages 
 of houses in the parish. 
 
 BRORA, a village, in the parish of Clyne, county 
 of Sutherland, 5 miles (N. E.) from Golspie; contain- 
 ing 123 inhabitants. It is situated on the eastern coast, 
 at the mouth of the Brora water, a fine stream which 
 rises in the highlands, and pursues a winding course of 
 thirty miles in a south-eastern direction to this place, 
 where it falls into the sea. There is a tolerable harbour 
 for boats and small vessels, constructed by the Duke of 
 Sutherland. Brora lake, a few miles westward, is a 
 beautiful and extensive piece of water, within which is 
 an islet 140 feet in length and seventy in breadth, sur- 
 rounded by a wall built so close to the water's edge that 
 no boat can land, except at one spot, where there are 
 steps. On all sides of the lake are lofty hills, inter- 
 spersed with pleasant hamlets and plantations. — See 
 Clyne. 
 
 BROTHER ISLE, in the parish of Delting, county 
 of Shetland. It lies in Yell Sound, westward of the 
 island of Yell, and is inhabited by a very few persons. 
 
 BROUGH-HEAD, in the county of Elgin.— See 
 Burgh-Head. 
 
 BROUGHTON, GLENHOLM, and KILBUCHO, a 
 parish, in the county of Peebles ; containing, with the 
 whole of Kilbucho, 9^9 inhabitants, of whom 294 arc 
 in Glenholm, 361 in Kilbucho, and 274 in Broughton, 
 including 8,5 in the village of Broughton, 2 miles (N. N. 
 W.) from Rachan Mill. This parish is bounded on the 
 east and south by the river Tweed, and consists of the 
 ancient parishes of Broughton and Glenholm, and the 
 greater portion of that of Kilbucho, the remainder of 
 which is annexed quoad sacra to the parish of Culter. 
 It is about nine miles and a half in length, and three 
 miles and a half in average breadth, comprising about 
 20,000 acres, whereof 5000 are arable, 300 woodland 
 and plantations, and the remainder, of which not more 
 than 1000 are capable of cultivation, meadow land and 
 hill jjasture. The surface is greatly diversified with hill 
 and dale, and intersected by mountainous ridges and 
 fertile valleys. Rachan Hill, in the district of Glen- 
 holm, is a detached eminence, rising precipitously from 
 the plain, on the side towards the Tweed, and sloping 
 by a gentle declivity towards the Holms water; it is 
 covered with verdure to its very summit, and forms an 
 interesting feature in the landscape. A chain of moun- 
 tainous heights extending for nearly three miles from 
 north to south, intersects the parish, separating Brough- 
 ton from the parishes of Stobo and Kirkurd. Another, 
 163 
 
 extending for nearly five miles in a direction from north- 
 east to south-west, separates Glenholm from Kilbucho 
 and the parish of Culter : a third range stretches for 
 nearly three miles parallel with the Tweed ; and there 
 are some others, one of which passes through the dis- 
 trict of Broughton. The highest points of these ranges, 
 which in general are precipitous, are Culterfcll, Cardon, 
 and Chapelgill ; the first has an elevation of 2430 feet 
 above the sea, and the others are very little inferior in 
 height. Between the ranges of hills are several beau- 
 tiful valleys ; the vale of Glenholm, extending for nearly 
 four miles, is strikingly picturesque, and is enlivened 
 by the Holms water. The Biggar water, which forms a 
 boundary between the district of Broughton and those 
 of Glenholm and Kilbucho, receives various rivulets, 
 among which are the Holms water and the Broughton 
 and Kilbucho burns, and falls into the Tweed opposite 
 to Druramelzier. At Rachan are two fine pieces of 
 water, ornamented with wooded islets ; one is stocked 
 with trout, and the other with perch. Among the hills 
 are several springs, the water of which is intensely cold ; 
 and in the old glebe land of Broughton is a well pos- 
 sessing some medicinal properties. 
 
 The soil, in the upper parts of the valleys, is rather 
 inclined to moss, and in the lower parts is a deep rich 
 loam ; near the confluence of the Biggar water with the 
 Broughton burn the land is extremely fertile. The chief 
 crops are wheat, barley, oats, peas, potatoes, and tur- 
 nips ; and the system of husbandry is in an advanced 
 state : the woods contain but little old timber, and most 
 of the plantations are of comparatively modern growth. 
 The annual value of the real property in Broughton is 
 £1579; in Glenholm, £2625; and the whole of Kil- 
 bucho, £3230. The chief substrata are greywacke, 
 limestone, and slate ; sand of a remarkably fine quality 
 is found in the district of Broughton, and there are nu- 
 merous pits of good gravel. Of the various houses 
 in the parish, Rachan, Rachan Cottage, Mossfennan, 
 Broughton Place, and Kilbucho Place, are the principal : 
 the mansion of Broughton was burnt by an accidental 
 fire in 1774, and rebuilt with the old materials on a 
 smaller scale ; Kilbucho Place, now a farm-house, was 
 the family seat of the Dicksons, and its last occupier 
 was General Dickson. The village was once a consider- 
 able market for cattle ; but a fair only is now held, on 
 the 3rd of October, principally for hiring servants, and 
 for the sale of various wares. The road from Edin- 
 burgh to Dumfries passes through the parish, and in 
 1S47 an act was obtained for the construction of a 
 branch line from the Caledonian railway at Symington 
 to Biggar and Broughton. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Biggar, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and in the 
 patronage of William Renny, Esq. ; the minister's sti- 
 pend is about £230, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £64. 14. 9. per annum. The church, which is situ- 
 ated in the district of Kilbucho, and nearly in the centre 
 of the parish, is a jdain substantial edifice, erected in 
 1804, and adapted for a congregation of 500 persons. 
 A place of worship has been erected in connexion with 
 the Free Church. There are three parochial schools, 
 one in each of the three districts ; the master of each 
 has a salary of £32, with a house and garden, and, in- 
 cluding proclamations of banns and other small emolu- 
 ments the fees for Broughton amount to about £25, for 
 
 Y2
 
 BROW 
 
 Glenholm to about £30, and for Kilbucho also to about 
 £30. Numerous remains may be traced of circular 
 camps, one of which, called IMacbeth's Castle, was sur- 
 rounded with a double intrenchment. Some stone coffins 
 also, containing human skeletons, have been found near 
 the confluence of the Biggar and the Tweed, in a tu- 
 mulus J one of the bodies was of gigantic size, and the 
 arras were encircled with bracelets of gold or yellow 
 metal. 
 
 BROUGHTY-FERRY, for a time a quoad sacra 
 parish, partly in the parish of INIonifieth, and partly in 
 the parish of Dundee, county of Forfar, 4 miles (E.) 
 from Dundee ; containing about 2400 inhabitants. This 
 place, a small part only of which belongs to the parish 
 of Dundee, at the close of the last century consisted 
 merely of a few fishermen's huts ; but the proprietor 
 having begun to feu it about the year 1*90, a large 
 addition was quickly made to its population, and it has 
 been since regularly increasing. It is a neat, clean, and 
 thriving fishing and sea-bathing village on the Firth of 
 Tay, having an interesting and picturesque appearance 
 from the water ; the gentle acclivity behind, studded with 
 numerous pleasing and elegant villas, greatly height- 
 ening the general effect, and improving the scenery. 
 Altogether the village is one of the most beautiful in 
 Scotland ; the houses are rapidly increasing, and a con- 
 siderable number of the higher classes from Dundee, 
 &c., have built handsome villas for their summer and 
 winter residences. As a sea-bathing place, its re- 
 pute is now very high. Many families from Dundee, 
 Edinburgh, Perth, and other places, resort hither in the 
 summer season, for the benefit of bathing, and find 
 ample accommodation of every kind, a considerable pro- 
 portion of the inhabitants letting their houses in lodg- 
 ings for visiters. The Perth, Dundee, and Arbroath 
 railway passes here, and on the opposite shore of the 
 river is the Cupar line of the Edinburgh, Perth, and 
 Dundee railway company, to whom the ferry across be- 
 longs. Thirteen boats are regularly employed, and in 
 summer many more, in the white-fishing, upon which 
 upwards of fifty families depend for support ; and the 
 fish taken, comprising cod, haddock, soles, ling, whiting, 
 plaice, flouuders, and many others, valued at £5000 per 
 annum, constitute the principal supply of the town of 
 Dundee. About 400 cod are also prepared weekly, for 
 exportation, at a curing establishment here ; and among 
 several other branches of manufacture and trade, are two 
 rope-works, a brewery, &c. Small vessels are occasion- 
 ally built, opposite to those parts where the depth of 
 water offers the necessary faciUty for launching them. A 
 chapel of ease was erected in 1S26, containing "55 sit- 
 tings, and the attached district was formed into a quoad 
 sacra parish in 1834; the minister, who is elected by the 
 male communicants, receives about £150 per annum, 
 derived from seat-rents and collections, and of which 
 £120 are guaranteed. An excellent school has been 
 formed in connexion with the Establishment, the master 
 of which has a salary of £9. 18. 6., and fees ; and there 
 are places of worship belonging to the United Presby- 
 terian Synod and the Free Church. Some remains exist 
 of Droughty Castle, formerly a key to the navigation of 
 the river, and much connected with historical events. 
 
 BROWNFIELD, for a time a quoad sacra parish ; 
 consisting of part of the parish of St. George, in the 
 city of Glasgow, county of Lanark ; and containing 
 164 
 
 B R YD 
 
 2525 inhabitants. This place, which forms part of the 
 suburb of Anderston, is situated on the north bank of 
 the Clyde, and to the west of the Broomielaw Quay. The 
 church is a neat structure. 
 
 BROXBURN, a village, in the parish of Uphall, 
 county of Linlithgow, 2 miles (E.) from Uphall ; con- 
 taining about 500 inhabitants. It is pleasantly situated 
 on the road from Glasgow to Edinburgh, and on the 
 banks of the Union canal, near a rivulet of the same 
 name. Through the exertions of the late Earl of Buchan, 
 the proprietor, it very much increased in extent and po- 
 pulation, and a fair for cattle is held on the Friday after 
 the second Tuesday in September. The parochial school 
 is situated in the village, and there is a place of worship 
 in connexion with the Free Church. In the vicinity is 
 a station of the Edinburgh and Bathgate railway. 
 
 BRUNTON, a village, in the parish of Creich, dis- 
 trict of Cupar, county of Fife ; containing 90 inhabit- 
 ants. This village, which is pleasantly situated, is inha- 
 bited chiefly by persons employed in agriculture, and in 
 hand-loom weaving for the linen manufacturers of Cupar, 
 under the inspection of a resident agent who furnishes 
 the materials. Previously to the introduction of ma- 
 chinery, several of the females were employed in spinning 
 yarn ; but at present there is only one spinning-wheel in 
 operation. 
 
 BRYDEKIRK, formerly a quoad sacra parish ; con- 
 sisting chiefly of a portion of the parish of Annan, and 
 partly of portions of the parishes of Cummertrees and 
 HoDDAM, in the county of Dumfries; and containing 
 881 inhabitants, of whom about 400 are in the village of 
 Brydekirk, 3 miles (N. by W.) from Annan. The district 
 forms a section of the vale of Annandale, about five or six 
 miles above the entrance of the beautiful river Annan 
 into the Solway Firth. The scenery is remarkably rich, 
 varied, and extensive, rising on either side of the Annan 
 (the banks of which are finely wooded) to a considerable 
 elevation, and embracing from different positions the 
 whole sweep of the surrounding country. The greater 
 portion of the soil is under cultivation, in the usual rou- 
 tine of farming ; and the remainder, to a large extent, is 
 covered with timber and plantations. The village is 
 pleasantly situated on the western bank of the Annan 
 which is here crossed by a substantial bridge ; it is neatly 
 built, and intersected by the road from Annan to Lock- 
 erbie. In 1847 an act of parliament was passed for the 
 construction of a branch railway, by the Caledonian rail- 
 way company, from their line at Ecclesfechan, southward, 
 by Brydekirk, to the Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle 
 line at Annan. The woollen manufacture was established 
 in 1824, but the spacious building that was erected for 
 the purpose at the east end of the bridge, has been some 
 years converted into corn-mills : there is still a small 
 carding-mill. Ecclesiastically Brj-dekirk is in the pres- 
 bytery of Annan and synod of Dumfries. The church, 
 erected in 1835, chiefly at the expense of Mrs. Dirom of 
 Mount Annan, and her friends, is a neat structure, stand- 
 ing at the western extremity of the village, and contains 
 370 sittings. The minister's stipend is derived from the 
 seat-rentb, augmented by donations from the proprietor 
 of Mount Annan ; and a handsome house has been 
 erected for his residence : the patronage is vested in the 
 subscribers, managers, and male communicants, being 
 seat-holders. Application is about to be made to the 
 Court of Teinds, for the erection of Brydekirk into a pa- 
 
 I
 
 BUCK 
 
 BUCH 
 
 rish under what is called Lord Aberdeen's Act ; and 
 should the application prove successful, the stipend of 
 the minister will be £120, exclusively of the manse. 
 There is a branch here of the parochial school, the mas- 
 ter of which has a salary of £10, in addition to the fees, 
 together amounting to about £40 ; and a parochial library 
 is under the superintendence of the minister. 
 
 BUACHAILLE, in the county of Argyll. — See 
 Staffa. 
 
 BUCHANAN, a parish, in the county of Stirling, 
 1 mile (N. W.) from Drymen ; containing 754 inhabit- 
 ants. The name of this place was originally Inchcai- 
 leoch, which it received from an island in Loch Lomond, 
 its western boundary ; but a detached porti<m of the 
 parish of Luss, containing the Buchanan estates and 
 chapel, having been annexed to it in IG^I, and the in- 
 habitants finding this religious edifice more convenient 
 than the church, regularly attended at the former, in 
 consequence of which the parish assumed the name of 
 Buchanan. This appellation is of uncertain origin ; but 
 the family who used it in consequence of having, at a 
 very early period, obtained a grant of the lands so called, 
 sprang from Anselan, a native of Ireland, who is sup- 
 posed to have located himself here in the eleventh century. 
 From this ancient race, always more celebrated for 
 literary than political or military fame, descended the 
 poet and historian George Buchanan, born in 1506; 
 Dr. Buchanan, author of works on the civil and natural 
 history of India ; and Dr. Claudius Buchanan, whose 
 writings, designed to awaken the British nation to a 
 sense of the necessity of extending education and reli- 
 gious instruction in India, are well known. The parish 
 is situated at the western extremity of the county, bor- 
 dering on Dumbartonshire, and is bounded on the south 
 by the river Endrick. It is about twenty-four miles in 
 length and five in breadth, and comprises 76,800 acres, 
 of which 1,500 are arable, 69,750 natural pasture and 
 waste, 4250 in woods and plantations, and the remainder 
 in pleasure-grounds, &c. It contains a portion of low- 
 land, some of the islands in Loch Lomond, and a moun- 
 tainous ridge belonging to the highlands, stretching 
 along the eastern bank of the loch, and terminating the 
 Grampian hills on the west. This ridge is altogether 
 a dreary barren tract, consisting chiefly of sheep-pas- 
 turage, used formerly, as is supposed, for the purpose 
 of hunting, and now abounding in grouse, black game, 
 and other fowl. 
 
 Luch Lomond, the rich and magnificent scenery of 
 which is perhaps unrivalled, and which has been so often 
 described, is twenty-four miles in length and about seven 
 at its greatest breadth, and is twenty-two feet above the 
 level of the sea. It contains salmon, pike, eels, &c., and 
 a fish called powans, somewhat similar to a herring. 
 On the east it is joined by the river Endrick ; the Leven 
 quits it on the south, and, running into the Clyde, 
 affords to boats the means of communication with 
 Glasgow, Greenock, and other places. A steam-boat, in 
 the summer season, plies upon this beautiful expanse of 
 water chiefly for the accommodation of visiters. The 
 lake is studded with above thirty islands, mostly at the 
 southern extremity. These, together with the shores of 
 the loch, are in general clothed with dark wood, which 
 gave occasion to a distinction drawn some years ago by 
 a Swiss tourist, between Lausanne and Loch Lomond : 
 " Our lake", he said, " is the fair beauty ; your's, the 
 165 
 
 black". In ancient times, the lake was famed for three 
 wonders, " waves without winds, fish without fins, and 
 a floating island". The first phenomenon is attriJouted 
 to a pecuhar atmospheric effect, not easily described, 
 but which has also been observed on the Cumberland 
 lakes : vipers swimming from island to island account 
 for the second ; whilst the floating island is supposed to 
 have been a detached fragment of moss, or a matted 
 mass of aquatic plants, which ultimately fixed itself 
 near the west side of Inch Conagan. Most of the 
 islands in the lake are unimportant. The largest is 
 Inchmurrin, which is two miles in length and about half 
 as broad, and contains a considerable number of deer, 
 the property of the Duke of Montrose : at the western 
 limit of the island, on a hill, are the ruins of a castle 
 built by the ancient Earls of Lennox, and near the same 
 place is a lodge of modern date erected by the same 
 family. In the parish is the lofty mountain of Ben Lo- 
 mond, the highest point of the Grampians, rising 3000 feet 
 above the sea, and commanding from its summit, which 
 is of conical form, a prospect, on the north, of an inter- 
 minable range of mountains rising in succession, one 
 above another ; and, on the south, of all the rich and 
 varied scenery in the great tract from the Western Isles 
 to the Firth of Forth. It is one of the most striking 
 and commanding objects in the whole country, having 
 the remarkable advantage of not being overcrowned or 
 crowded up with surrounding hills; and besides the 
 varied and most extensive prospect it embraces in every 
 direction, Ben Lomond in itself affords a great variety 
 of scenery. To the south it stretches out into a slope 
 of a very gentle declivity ; the north side is awfully 
 abrupt, and presents a concave precipice many hundred 
 yards in depth. The whole consists of three great 
 stages, one rising above another ; and these, again, are 
 divided into a number of smaller swelling knolls, some 
 of which are covered with heath and crags, whilst others 
 are smooth and verdant. 
 
 The soil, on the bank of the Endrick, is for the most 
 part alluvial ; and towards the mountains the land 
 comprises clay, gravel, and moss, the last supplying 
 abundance of peat. The chief agricultural produce is 
 barley and oats, the latter of which are raised in by 
 far the larger quantity ; potatoes and turnips are also 
 grown. But the principal wealth of the parish arises 
 from its sheep and black-cattle, grazed on the mountain- 
 ous tracts ; the sheep are of the black-faced breed, and 
 of small size. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £6400. The rocks mostly consist of various 
 kinds of slate, but the quarries formerly wrought have 
 been discontinued. The natural wood contains about 
 3000 acres ; the plantations are chiefly oak and larch, 
 and were for the most part formed by the late Duke of 
 Montrose, whose decease occurred in IS36. Buchanan 
 House, the summer residence of the Duke of Montrose, 
 was situated in the lower district, and surrounded by 
 extensive and well laid-out grounds; the body of the 
 edifice was ancient, but the wings comparatively of 
 modern date. This mansion was unfortunately de- 
 stroyed by fire on January 22nd, 1850: the pictures 
 and family records were saved. At Balmaha is a manu- 
 factory for the preparation of pyroligneous acid ; 700 
 tons of small wood are annually used in the works, and 
 the acid and dye-stuffs extracted from it are sold to the 
 proprietors of print-works in the vicinity of Glasgow.
 
 BUCK 
 
 BUCK 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Dum- 
 barton, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage 
 of the Duke of Montrose : the minister's stipend is 
 £156. 12. 8., of which above a third is received from 
 the exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe valued at 
 £10 per annum. The church, situated in the lower 
 portion of the parish, is a neat edifice, built about \~6-l, 
 and contains 300 sittings. A small part of the ruins of 
 the old church still remains, in the island of Inchcai- 
 leoch. The master of the parochial school receives a 
 salary of £30, with fees ; and at Salochy, in the higher 
 district, is a school, the master of which has £15 per 
 annum, paid by the Edinburgh Society, and a house, 
 with a piece of grass-land, given by the duke. A library 
 was formed some years since. 
 
 BUCHANHAVEN, a village, in the parish of Peter- 
 HE.^D, district of Buchan, county of Aberdeen, 1 mile 
 (N.) from Peterhead. This village is situated on the 
 east coast, to the north of the haven of Peterhead, and 
 near the mouth of the river Ugie, which here flows into 
 the German Ocean. The inhabitants are engaged in the 
 white and herring fisheries, both of which are success- 
 fully carried on, at no great distance off the coast. Five 
 boats are employed in each, for the accommodation of 
 which a small harbour lias been lately constructed. 
 
 BUCHANTY, a hamlet, in the parish of Fowlis 
 Wester, county of Perth ; containing 48 inhabitants. 
 
 BUCHANY, a village, in the parish of Kilmadock, 
 county of Perth, '2 miles (W. N. W.) from Doune ; 
 containing 1 13 inhabitants. This village, which is on the 
 road from Doune to Callander, and near the picturesque 
 burn of Annat, is inhabited by persons engaged in agri- 
 cultural pursuits, or employed in the manufactories in 
 the vicinity. The mansion of Cambus Wallace is beau- 
 tifully situated on an eminence immediately above the 
 village, commanding an extensive view of the river 
 Teith, the town and castle of Doune, the pleasure- 
 grounds of Blair-Drummond, and Stirling Castle. On 
 the acclivity of the hill are vestiges of a camp said to 
 have been the resort of Sir William Wallace, from which 
 circumstance the mansion derived its name. The house 
 is surrounded with a well-wooded park, embracing great 
 variety of scenery. 
 
 BUCKHAVEN, an extensive village and fishing 
 station, in the parish of Wemyss, district of Kirkcaldy, 
 county of Fife, 4 miles (E.) from Kirkcaldy; contain- 
 ing 1526 inhabitants. This village is situated on the 
 Firth of Forth, and consists of an irregular range of 
 houses, extending along the shore, and chiefly inhabited 
 by persons employed in the fisheries, of which it is the 
 principal station on this part of the coast of Fife. A 
 library has been founded, which is well supported by 
 subscription, and contains a good collection of volumes ; 
 and a savings' bank has been opened, with every pros- 
 pect of success. The fishery here has been long esta- 
 blished, and is gradually increasing ; it affords employ- 
 ment to nearly '200 persons, and about 150 boats of 
 various tonnage are regularly engaged during the season, 
 which generally commences about the end of June, when 
 the boats sail to the herring-stations of Fraserburgh, 
 Wick, and Helmsdale, returning to this place with their 
 cargoes about the beginning of September. The value 
 of the boats is more than £8000, and, including the nets, 
 nearly £'20,000, in the aggregate. The harbour, which 
 is safe and commodious, has been improved by the erec- 
 166 
 
 tion of a new pier, at an expense of more than £4000, 
 of which the Board of Fisheries contributed £3000 ; 
 and from its very advantageous situation, rendering it 
 easy of access, it is well adapted to afford shelter in 
 stress of weather to vessels of considerable burthen. A 
 number of the inhabitants are employed in the weaving 
 of linen, and an extensive factory is established. 
 
 BUCKHOLMSIDE, a village, in the late quoad sacra 
 parish of Ladhope, parish of Melrose, county of 
 Roxburgh ; containing 396 inhabitants. This place is 
 situated on the east side of the river Gala, and, though 
 within the parish of Melrose, is more properly an appen- 
 dage of Galashiels, with which town it is connected by 
 a stone bridge, and in the manufactures of which the 
 larger part of the population is employed. Great fa- 
 cility of intercourse is afforded by the Edinburgh and 
 Hawick railway, lately opened. There is a school in the 
 village, for which a comfortable house has been built by 
 the heritors. 
 
 BUCKIE, a post-town, in the parish of Rathven, 
 county of Banff, situated on the sea-shore, at the mouth 
 of the burn of Buckie, about a mile northward of the 
 turnpike-road from Banff to Elgin, and above five miles 
 eastward of the mouth of the river Spey. It is divided 
 into the Sea-town and New-town, the total population, 
 according to the last census, being 2165. The Sea-town 
 extends both east and west of the burn's mouth, and 
 has been a fishing station for about two centuries ; the 
 New-town was commenced in the year 1779. West of 
 the mouth of the burn is a small pier, chiefly for the 
 benefit of the fishermen's boats, but coal and salt, with 
 other articles, are unloaded at it in summer. The white- 
 fishing is prosecuted by thirty-two boats and upwards 
 of 300 men ; seven smoking-houses for curing haddocks 
 have been lately established, and a brisk trade is carried 
 on in exporting those fish. A considerable number of 
 boats also go from this shore to the herring-fishery : in 
 the year 1844, it appears that 152 boats went. On the 
 east side of the burn's mouth, contiguous to the coast- 
 guard station, soundings were taken about the time the 
 Caledonian Canal was cut, with the design of constructing 
 a harbour of refuge for vessels making the transit from 
 the east to the west seas by the canal. The locality is 
 most suitable for a capacious and secure harbour : at 
 the point of the rocks, at a stream ebb, the depth of 
 water is six feet, and stream high water rises to twenty 
 feet. Both the agricultural and commercial interests 
 urgently call for the formation of a harbour. Buckie has 
 a branch of the North of Scotland Bank, and contains 
 places of worship for members of the Free Church, Episco- 
 palians, and Roman Catholics ; also a school provided by 
 the members of the Free Church, who pay the teacher. 
 
 BUCKLERHEAD, a hamlet, in the parish of Mur- 
 ROES, county of Forfar ; containing 48 inhabitants. 
 
 BUCKLYVIE, formerly a quoad sacra parish ; con- 
 sisting of part of the parish of Drymen, in the county 
 of Stirling, and part of that of Kippen, in the counties 
 of Perth and Stirling ; containing 963 inhabitants, of 
 whom 381 are in the village, 5 miles (W. S. W.) from 
 Kippen. Bucklyvie is situated on the road from Kippen 
 to Drymen, and is a burgh of barony, and entitled to 
 hold five fairs. The parish was in the presbytery of 
 Dunblane, synod of Perth and Stirling. The church was 
 built in 1835, by subscription, at a cost of £600, and 
 contains 352 sittings ; but it is not now opened. The
 
 BULL 
 
 BUNK 
 
 stipend of the minister was £"0, with a small allowance 
 for communion elements. There are places of worship 
 for the United Presbyterian Synod and members of the 
 Free Church. 
 
 BUITTLE, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirkcud- 
 bright, 4 miles (S. E. by S.) from Castle-Douglas ; con- 
 taining, with the village and port of Palnackie, 1059 
 inhabitants. This place, whose name is of very uncer- 
 tain derivation, is of great antiquity; and there are still 
 some remains of its castle, supposed to have been the 
 principal seat of the ancient lords of Galloway. The 
 parish is bounded on the east by the river Urr, and on 
 the south by the bay of Orchardton in Solway Firth. 
 It is about eight miles in length, and nearly three in 
 average breadth. The surface is diversified by hill and 
 dale ; in the middle and lower districts it is broken 
 with numerous rocky knolls, covered with furze and 
 broom, but in the upland districts the ground is more 
 uniformly level, and better adapted for the plough. The 
 soil is various, and, on the arable lands, generally fer- 
 tile ; the chief crops are oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, 
 and turnips. The system of agriculture is improved ; 
 the lands have been extensively drained, and large tracts 
 of moss have been brought into profitable cultivation. 
 Great attention is paid to the rearing of cattle ; they 
 are usually sold to the dealers at two or three years 
 old, and driven to England, where they are fed for the 
 English markets. Considerable numbers of sheep are 
 also reared ; they are fed upon turnips, and mostly sent 
 to Liverpool. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £7757. The plantations, which have been 
 greatly extended within the last few years, now comprise 
 about 960 acres. They consist chiefly of oak, ash, larch, 
 and Scotch fir ; and on some of the lands planted at an 
 earlier date, are remarkably fine specimens of luxuriant 
 growth ; though many of the larches, after flourishing 
 vigorously for a few years, degenerate. The substratum 
 is chiefly granite, of very excellent quality, of which an 
 extensive quarry was opened some time since at Craig- 
 nair Hill, and afforded employment to about 200 men ; 
 blocks weighing from seven to eight tons were for some 
 years shipped for Liverpool, but the quarry at present is 
 only wrought to a very limited extent, for home use. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright and synod 
 of Galloway : the minister's stipend is about £230, with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum ; patron, 
 the Crown. The church, situated in the centre of the 
 parish, and erected in 1819 at an expense of £1000, is a 
 handsome structure in the early English style, contain- 
 ing 400 sittings, and, from the height of the walls, well 
 adapted for the erection of galleries, if additional seat 
 room should be required. In the churchyard are the 
 walls of the ancient church, covered with ivy, and form- 
 ing a beautiful ruin. There are two parochial schools, 
 the masters of which respectively have salaries of £28 
 and £23, with dwelling-houses, and the fees. On a farm 
 called Castlegower, on the north-west border of the pa- 
 rish, are the remains of a vitrified fort. There are two 
 wells, formerly held in high repute, and one of which 
 was celebrated for the cure of diseases peculiar to cattle ; 
 but they are now totally disregarded. 
 
 BULLERS-BUCHAN, a village, in the parish of 
 Cruden, district of Ellon, county of Aberdeen ; con- 
 taining 91 inhabitants. This is a small fishing village, 
 167 
 
 seated on the eastern coast, in the neighbourhood of 
 the stupendous rocks of the same name, where is a cir- 
 cular basin about 150 feet deep, into which a boat can 
 sail, under a long vaulted arch. The view from the sea 
 is peculiarly striking, two hideous cliffs presenting them- 
 selves ; the vault in general, where most confined, is 
 thirty or forty feet in height, and the tide rushes in 
 tumultuously, and produces a boiling motion round the 
 sides of the pit. "No man", observes Dr. Johnson, 
 " can see the BuUer with indifference, who has either 
 sense of danger or delight in rarity : if I had any malice 
 against a walking spirit, instead of laying him in the 
 Red Sea, I would condemn him to reside in the Buller 
 of Buchan". Above the surface of the water are several 
 caverns of unknown extent. 
 
 BUNDALOCH.— See Dornie. 
 
 BUNKLE and PRESTON, a parish, in the county 
 of Berwick, 5 miles (N. N. E.) from Dunse ; containing 
 about 650 inhabitants. The name of this place is de- 
 rived from the Celtic word boii, signifying the foot or 
 base, and kill, a cell or chapel ; the word Preston, if of 
 Saxon origin, would signify Priest-town, or the town of 
 the priests, but some derive it fi-om the Gaelic term 
 Preas, a thicket, and tun, a town or farm. The manor 
 was formerly possessed by Sir Alexander de Bunkle or 
 Bonkle, by whom it was transferred in 128S to Sir John 
 Stewart, on his marriage with the only child of Sir 
 Alexander. The property passed from Sir John Stewart, 
 by an heiress, to a different branch of the Stewarts, one 
 of whom was created Earl of Angus and Lord de Bon- 
 kle ; and a granddaughter of this earl, by her marriage 
 with William, Earl of Douglas, carried the property to 
 the family of Douglas. The ancient castle of Bunkle, of 
 which a ruin only now remains, was the residence of the 
 Stewarts. The parish contains 9300 acres. Its surface, 
 in the southern division, is tolerably level, sloping gently 
 towards the south-east ; the northern part is traversed 
 by the Lammermoor hills, the southern ridge of which, 
 called Bunkle Edge, is 700 feet above the sea, but not 
 more than half that altitude above its own base, showing 
 the site of the parish to be of considerable elevation. 
 The river Whitadder runs along the southern and west- 
 ern boundary of the parish, and, from its width, its 
 beautiful meanderings, and picturesque valleys, forms 
 an interesting object ; it abounds with salmon and trout, 
 and is frequently visited by the lovers of angling. 
 
 On the hills the soil is thin and poor, but in the lower 
 parts, especially in the vicinity of the Whitadder, a rich 
 fertile loam. The cultivated land comprehends 7280 
 acres, one-half of which is usually in tillage, and the 
 other half in pasture, and of the former, about two-thirds 
 produce white crops, and the rest potatoes and turnips. 
 Little wheat is raised, and only a sufTicient quantity of 
 hay for domestic use. About 1600 acres are moorland 
 or heath, and about 420 planted, chiefly with Scotch fir, 
 of recent growth. The rotation system of husbandry 
 here adopted consists of two or three years of pasture, 
 followed by three years of tillage ; but the farmers give 
 their chief attention to the rearing of sheep, there being 
 on some farms no less than 1500 or 1600, principally of 
 the Leicester breed. Considerable improvements have 
 been made within the last half century, and nearly all 
 the waste laud capable of cultivation has been reclaimed. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £8833. 
 There are three distinct classes of rocks, the transition
 
 BURG 
 
 BURN 
 
 series, the old red sandstone, and the new red sandstone. 
 On the Hoardwell estate, close by the river, is a copper- 
 mine, the property of Lord Douglas, worked about sixty 
 or seventy years since by an English company, but 
 abandoned as unprofitable a few years afterwards : in 
 1825 it was again wrought, and again relinquished on 
 the same account. The eastern boundary of the parish 
 is skirted by the Dunse branch of the North-British 
 railway. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dunse, synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; 
 patron. Lord Douglas : the stipend of the minister is 
 about £250, with a manse, and a glebe of the annual 
 value of £46. When the ancient parishes of Bunkle 
 and Preston were united, about the year 1714, public 
 worship was performed in each alternately, till at length, 
 both churches needing repair, that of Bunkle was chosen 
 as most suitable for the joint population ; it is a neat 
 edifice, rebuilt in 1820, on the old site, and capable of ac- 
 commodating 400 persons. There is a parochial school, 
 where the usual branches of education are taught, the 
 master receiving the maximum salary, with £26 fees, a 
 house, and garden. Dr. James Hutton, born at Edin- 
 burgh in 1*26, and author of a Theory of the Earth, 
 resided in the parish, and greatly promoted agricultural 
 improvements in this part of the country ; and Dr. John 
 Browne, the celebrated medical theorist, author of the 
 system called from him the Brunonian, was born here in 
 1735. 
 
 BURGH-HEAD, a village and district, in the parish 
 of DuFFUs, county of Elgin, 9 miles ( N. W.) from El- 
 gin ; containing 829 inhabitants. This place is equidis- 
 tant from Elgin and Forres, and is seated on the north 
 of a fine bay of the same name, said to be one of the best 
 roadsteads on the east coast of Scotland. The harbour, 
 which is commodious, was formed about 1811, and as 
 many as 400 vessels now enter it in the course of the 
 year ; twelve vessels of the aggregate burthen of 738 
 tons belong to the port, and by these traders, and by 
 steam-ships, there is a regular communication with Lon- 
 don, Liverpool, Leith, and Aberdeen. The greatest 
 length of the district is five miles, and its greatest 
 breadth three. The village is very thriving, and has 
 several good houses, an excellent inn, a public reading- 
 room, and convenient baths for the accommodation of 
 summer visiters, who frequent it in great numbers. In 
 1846 an act of parliament was passed authorizing the 
 construction of a railway from Aberdeen to Inverness, 
 with branches to Burgh-Head and other places. A cha- 
 pel of ease was built in 1832, and in 1834 it was slightly 
 altered to increase the number of sittings, which are now 
 414 ; the minister's stipend is £70, paid partly by seat- 
 rents and partly by two societies, with a house rent-free. 
 The members of the Free Church, and the United Pres- 
 byterian Synod, have each a place of worship, and a 
 school is supported by the General Assembly. On the 
 promontory of Burgh- Head are considerable remains of 
 a regular Roman or Danish insulated fortification. The 
 works were divided into two parts, a higher and a lower, 
 and presented four strong ramparts, built with oaken 
 logs, directed towards the small isthmus upon which 
 the village now stands. A deep well, of extreme regu- 
 larity in its construction, and much too carefully formed 
 to allow of its being supposed to be Danish, was lately 
 discovered on the spot, and adds another link to the 
 16s 
 
 chain of evidence adduced by General Roy, in his learned 
 work on Roman antiquities, to show that Burgh-Head 
 was a Roman station of very considerable importance. 
 
 BURNBANKS, a village, in the parish of Nigg, 
 county of Kincardine ; containing 60 inhabitants. 
 This is a small village, lying contiguous to two others, 
 on the eastern coast. It is occupied by fishermen, who 
 have two boats engaged in the white-fishery, and three 
 boats which proceed yearly to the herring-fishery on the 
 north coast. 
 
 BURNBRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Muir- 
 AvoNsiDE, county of Stirling ; containing 67 inhabit- 
 ants. It lies in the east part of the parish, where the 
 river Avon separates the county of Stirling from Linlith- 
 gowshire. 
 
 BURNESS, county of Orkney. — See Cross. 
 
 BURNHAVEN, a village, in the parish of Peter- 
 head, district of Buchan, county of Aberdeen, 2 miles 
 (S.) from Peterhead. This village is situated near the 
 mouth of the burn of Invernettie, from which it has its 
 name ; and consists of about thirty houses, erected by 
 George Mudie, Esq., and inhabited by fishermen, who 
 employ seven boats in the herring-fishery. The houses 
 are on the acclivity of the sea-shore, nearly level with 
 the high-water mark. A small but convenient harbour 
 for the fishing boats has been constructed by Mr. Mudie, 
 at an expense of £300. 
 
 BURNS, a hamlet, in that part of the parish of 
 Markinch which formed the quoad sacra parish of 
 Milton of Balgonie, county of Fife; containing 28 
 inhabitants. 
 
 BURNTISLAND, a pa- 
 rish, burgh, and sea-port 
 town, in the district of Kirk- 
 caldy, county of Fife, 4^ 
 miles (S. W. by W.) from 
 Kirkcaldy, and 9 (N. by E.) 
 from Edinburgh ; contain- 
 ing, with the village of Kirk- 
 ton, 2210 inhabitants, of 
 whom 1572 are in the burgh. 
 This place is erroneously said 
 to have derived its appella- 
 tion from a small island in 
 the harbour, originally inhabited by a colony of fisher- 
 men, whose dwellings were destroyed by fire : the ancient 
 name was Bertyland, afterwards corrupted into Burnt- 
 land, and Burntisland ; and its etymology is uncertain. 
 The harbour appears to have been selected as a landing- 
 place for his forces by the Roman general Agricola, who 
 with his fleet explored this part of the coast of Britain ; 
 and on the summit of an eminence in the parish, called 
 Dunearn Hill, are the ruins of a fortress in which his 
 army was stationed. Few events of historical importance 
 are recorded : the town belonged to the abbey of Dun- 
 fermline, previously to the middle of the sixteenth cen- 
 tury, when James V. exchanged it for other lands, and 
 erected it into a royal burgh, soon after which it became 
 a place of considerable trade, and its harbour was the 
 chief port of an extensive line of coast including the ports 
 of Kinghorn, Kirkcaldy, Dysart, Wemyss, Leven, Elie, 
 St. Monan's, Pittenweem, Anstruther, Crail, St. Andrew's, 
 and South Queensferry. In 1 601, a meeting of the Gene- 
 ral Assembly of the Kirk of Scotland was held in the 
 town, at which James VI. was present, and recommended 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 i 

 
 BURN 
 
 BURN 
 
 a revision of the common translation of the Sacred Scrip- 
 tures, and of the version of the Psalms of David. During 
 the parliamentary war in the reign of Charles I., the town 
 was assaulted by the forces of Cromwell, to whom the 
 inhabitants surrendered it. In the disturbances of 1/15, 
 the town was taken pussession of by the Earl of Mar's 
 forces, who, by commanding the harbour, insured the ar- 
 rival of stores and au.xiliaries from abroad. 
 
 The TOWN is situated on a peninsula projecting into 
 the Firth of Forth. It is neatly built, and amply supplied 
 with water, which was first introduced by the magistrates 
 and council at an expense of £1000, defrayed from the 
 funds of the burgh. A subscription library, containing 
 about 600 volumes, has been established. A fair is held 
 on the 10th of July ; and from the favourable situation 
 of the place, and the facilities of bathing which this part 
 of the coast affords, the town is much frequented during 
 the summer months. Within the last few years, Burnt- 
 island has become a great national ferry-station ; a 
 splendid low-water pier, where steam-vessels can land at 
 all times of the tide, has been built by the Duke of Buc- 
 cleuch and Sir John Gladstone, and the Edinburgh, Perth, 
 and Dundee railway has an important station here. The 
 pier now belongs to the railway company, and the com- 
 pany's steam-vessels ply, in connexion with the trains, 
 acros.s the Firth of Forth to and from Granton, on the 
 south shore of the Firth, whence the line of railway ex- 
 tends to the heart of Edinburgh. The act vesting the 
 pier and ferry in the company was passed in 1847, and 
 conferred power to extend and improve the pier. A large 
 moveable slip has been recently erected, by means of 
 which goods are now conveyed across the Firth, on a 
 steam-vessel of peculiar construction, without removal 
 from the trucks. Besides the pier, the company possess 
 the property to the west, presenting a considerable har- 
 bour frontage, and including a very commodious graving- 
 dock ; and lines of rails cross over on the level in front 
 of the spacious Forth hotel, which looks down the pier. 
 To the right of, and connected with, the hotel, stands the 
 elegant station-house, having a colonnade of highly sym- 
 metrical Corinthian columns, built of the excellent free- 
 stone of Fifeshire. The station is ensconced below the 
 beetling brow of the sea-cliff, behind which the town is 
 situated within the gorge, and on the steep acclivities of 
 a narrow valley, formed between the sea-cliffs and the ele- 
 vated ridge extending from Rossend Castle to the School 
 hill or Mount Pleasant, Kirkton hill, and the Binn. 
 
 The port formerly carried on an extensive trade, for 
 which it was chiefly indebted to the convenience of its 
 harbour. For its great security and facility of access, 
 the harbour obtained the appellation of Partus Gratia ; 
 and in many old documents it is mentioned by the desig- 
 nation of Partus Salutis. The trade, which consisted 
 mainly in the exportation of coal and salt, and the im- 
 portation of wines from France, and timber from Norway, 
 declined greatly after the Union, and was almost discon- 
 tinued for a considerable time ; but it afterwards revived, 
 and at present consists principally in the curing of her- 
 rings, which are taken in the fishery established here, 
 and exported to the neighbouring towns. The number 
 of herrings annually cured and exported amounts, on an 
 average, to about 18,000 barrels; there are eight esta- 
 blishments for curing, which together employ from se- 
 venty to eighty boats, having about 400 men. The season 
 commences in July, when the boats set sail for Wick, 
 Vol. I.— 169 
 
 Fraserburgh, and Rosehearty, where they remain for 
 nearly two months ; and between this place and the 
 several fishing-stations, about ten sloops are constantly 
 engaged in taking out cargoes of barrels and salt, and in 
 bringing home the fish that have been caught at each place, 
 to be cured for exportation. The whale-fishery was car- 
 ried on here for a few years, by a company that annually 
 sent out two vessels, of the aggregate burthen of 700 
 tons, and each a crew of fifty men. During the period 
 from 1830 to 183.5, the quantity of oil procured was 1200 
 tons, and of whalebone more than fifty tons ; the prepa- 
 ration of which afforded employment to thirty persons, 
 of whom nearly one-half were oil-coopers, and the re- 
 mainder women who were occupied in cleansing the bone. 
 This fishery, proving a bad speculation, has been discon- 
 tinued. The building and repairing of ships were for- 
 merly carried on extensively, and at present engage more 
 than 100 persons; but the largest vessel built has not 
 exceeded 4.50 tons' burthen. A distillery at Grange, in 
 the parish, consumes annually about 1 1 ,000 quarters of 
 malt, in the production of nearly 190,000 gallons of 
 whisky ; and the amount of duty payable exceeds 
 £36,000. In connexion with this establishment, the 
 buildings of which are situated half a mile from the town, 
 about 700 head of cattle are annually fed, producing to 
 the proprietors a considerable income ; and the whole 
 concern affords employment to about 100 men and fifty 
 horses. The harbour is capacious and easy of access, and, 
 from its depth, affords shelter to vessels of great burthen. 
 A dry-dock has been some time constructed, in connexion 
 with the harbour ; it is about 200 feet in length, and 
 seventeen feet in depth at high water, and is capable of 
 receiving vessels of 1000 tons. The roadstead affords 
 good anchorage, and is much frequented in stormy wea- 
 ther; the bottom is deep, even near the shore, and the 
 higii grounds on the north, and a sand-bank extending 
 considerably into the sea on the east, provide shelter for 
 vessels in distress. An act of parliament to improve the 
 harbour was passed in 1848. At Starlyburn is a small 
 harbour, from which the limestone found on the lands 
 belonging to the Carron Company is shipped, and where 
 also ships frequently touch to take in a supply of fresh 
 water. There is also a pier east of the town, chiefly 
 used for shipping lime to neighbouring districts. 
 
 The town was erected into a royal burgh in 1541 by 
 James V., whose charter was confirmed by his successor, 
 James VI., with additional grants ; and a new charter 
 was bestowed upon the inhabitants by Charles I., under 
 which the government is vested in a provost, three bailies, 
 a treasurer, procurator-fiscal, and a council of twenty- 
 one, assisted by a town-clerk. The provost and bailies, 
 with all the other officers, are elected by the council, who 
 are chosen by the parliamentary electors within the roy- 
 alty. The magistrates exercise jurisdiction within the 
 burgh, and the bailies hold courts for the trial of civil 
 cases to any amount, and for the decision of criminal 
 offences, chiefly misdemeanors ; there is also a court of 
 guild, under a dean of guild chosen by the council. The 
 trades or companies consist of the hammermen, tailors, 
 weavers, fleshers, shoemakers, and bakers. Burntisland 
 unites with Kirkcaldy, Dysart, and Kiiighorn, in return- 
 ing a member to the imperial parliament ; the right of 
 election is vested in the resident householders occupying 
 premises of the value of £10 per annum, and there are 
 at present about fifty voters on the roll.
 
 BURN 
 
 BURR 
 
 The PARISH was anciently called Kinghorn Wester. 
 It is bounded on the south by the Firth, and comprises 
 about 3000 acres, of which 500 are meadow and pasture, 
 100 woodland and plantations, and the remainder arable 
 land. The surface is exceedingly irregular, being broken 
 into parallel ridges of various eminence, and, throughout 
 the whole of its extent, being finely diversified with hills 
 and dales ; the highest of the hills is Dunearn, which 
 rises to the height of 700 feet above the level of the sea, 
 commanding a most extensive and richly-varied prospect, 
 embracing portions of nearly fourteen counties. The 
 soil is very various, consisting of rich deep loam, of great 
 fertility, with lighter loam, gravel, sand, clay, and moss ; 
 the principal crops are wheat, barley, oats, beans, and 
 potatoes, with the usual green crops. Great improvement 
 has taken place by draining the lands, and the system of 
 agriculture is in a very forward condition. The cattle 
 are of the old Fifeshire breed, and the sheep generally of 
 the Cheviot. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £8846. The plantations are but of modern 
 growth, and there is comparatively little ornamental 
 timber, though the soil seems well adapted to hard-woods 
 of every kind. The substrata are chiefly limestone, 
 sandstone, ironstone, clay-slate, shale, greenstone, trap- 
 tuffa, and basalt ; and coal is supposed to exist, though 
 none has hitherto been wrought. In the strata of sand- 
 stone, limestone, and shale, are various fossils ; and 
 amethysts, agates, and chalcedony are found in great 
 variety. The limestone and sandstone are extensively 
 quarried. Collinswell, Grange, and Newbigging, all 
 handsome edifices, are pleasantly situated in grounds 
 tastefully embellished. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Kirkcaldy, synod of Fife, and in the patronage of the 
 Crown; the minister's stipend is £185. 1*. 4., with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £50 per annum. The 
 church, a substantial edifice with a low square tower, 
 situated near the shore of the Firth, was erected by the 
 inhabitants, in loQS ; it is adapted for a congregation of 
 900 persons. There are places of worship for members 
 of the Free Church and United Presbyterian Church. 
 The burgh school affords instruction under a master ap- 
 pointed by the council, who pay him a salary of £26. 
 He also receives a fourth part of the rent of lands be- 
 queathed in the year 1689 by John Watson, Esq., provost 
 of Burntisland, and now producing in the whole £63 
 per annum, of which the remaining three-fourths are 
 divided among three widows, under the direction of the 
 magistrates and council. In consideration of the sum 
 the master receives from the endowment, he is bound to 
 teach, if required, poor scholars to that amount ; for 
 each, £4 Scots, or 6s. Sd. sterling. The town was at one 
 time fortified. On the south-east side of the harbour, 
 part of the walls of a fort is still standing ; and some 
 years ago, traces of the ancient fortification were dis- 
 cernible on the small eminence in the north side of the 
 town. On a knoll projecting boldly into the sea, at 
 Lamberlaws, are traces of an encampment said to have 
 been occupied by Cromwell ; and on an eminence over- 
 looking the harbour are the remains of Rossend Castle, 
 built in the fifteenth century : it has been greatly im- 
 proved within the last few years, and forms a pleasant 
 residence, surrounded with gardens and plantations. 
 Not long since, distinct traces might be seen of fortifica- 
 tion along the braes forming the north boundary of the 
 170 
 
 town. There are several tumuli in various parts ; in 
 one of them were found coffins, of rudely squared stones. 
 On an eminence in the north-west of the parish are some 
 remains of the fort called Knockdavie, and about a mile 
 and a half to the east of it, of another of similar con- 
 struction. 
 
 BURRA and QUARFF, for a time a quoad sacra 
 parish, in the parish of Bressay, county of Orkney and 
 Shetla.nd ; containing 870 inhabitants. The district 
 of Burra lies west of the Mainland, from which it is se- 
 parated by Cliff Sound, and comprehends the isles of 
 House, Burra, Halvera, and Papa, the two last of which 
 are of very small extent. Halvera, situated two miles 
 south from Burra, is a precipitous elevation, approached 
 by a creek, and tenanted by only a few families ; and 
 Papa, a mile north from Burra, merely affords a residence 
 to two families. House or the Eastern isle, which is 
 about half a mile from Quarff, and Burra or the Western 
 isle, which is mostly the same distance from House, are 
 each formed principally of a hilly ridge of rugged and 
 irregular appearance, that of the former about five miles 
 in length, and of the latter about six. In one place the 
 isles nearly touch each other, the communication being 
 carried on by means of a small bridge, consisting of 
 beams of wood resting on two piles of uncemented stones. 
 The coast of both islands is rocky. They are considered 
 among the richest islands of their size in the country. 
 Burra is highly picturesque, and contains many spots of 
 fertile and cultivated land. The island of House, so 
 called from the circumstance of the first slated house in 
 Shetland having been built upon it, is inferior in ap- 
 pearance, but contains, besides several miles of peat- 
 moss, a considerable tract of good natural pasture, and a 
 few pretty spots of cultivated ground. The manor-house 
 of House, being the third house on the same site, is a 
 neat modern building, with out-kitchen and suitable 
 offices : attached to it are about three acres of land, 
 tastefully laid out, and inclosed by a stone wall from 
 six to eight feet in height. What adds principally to 
 the value of these islands is their contiguity to a fishing- 
 ground and a valuable bed of oysters upwards of a mile 
 in length : many of the inhabitants are employed in 
 procuring these oysters, and exporting them to Lerwick, 
 where they meet with a ready sale. The district of 
 Quarff, situated between the districts of Bressay and 
 Burra, and forming part of the Mainland, is six miles 
 south-west from Bressay. It consists of a valley, about 
 two miles long and half a mile broad, inhabited and 
 partly cultivated ; together with a tract of natural pas- 
 ture on the north, and another on the south, about a 
 mile each in length. The whole forms a pleasingly rural 
 picture, with cottages on each side of the winding valley, 
 skirted by the mountains, and separated from each other 
 by meadows, with the advantage of an interesting bay on 
 the east and west. Quarff is nevertheless a poor district ; 
 the vale is generally rough and uncultivated, and affords 
 great scope for improvement. The southern part of the 
 valley is defended by the Cliff and Coningsburgh hills, 
 which here unite in a ridge, and the northern part by 
 those of Tingwall and Lerwick, the highest point of 
 which is estimated at 500 feet. Ecclesiastically, Burra 
 and Quarff are in the presbytery of Lerwick, synod of 
 Shetland ; the patronage belongs to the Crown, and the 
 stipend of the minister is £120, with a manse and glebe, 
 situated near the centre of the valley above described.
 
 BUTE 
 
 BUTE 
 
 There are two churches, of which that of Burra, near the 
 southern extremity of the Western isle, was built in 1804, 
 and accommodates about 200 persons ; that of QuartF 
 was erected in 1830, by government, and contains about 
 300 sittings. A place of worship has been built for 
 members of the Free Church, and the Methodists and the 
 Baptists have each a place of worship. — See Bressay. 
 
 BURRAY, an island, forming part of the ancient 
 parish of St. Peter, island of South Ronaldshay, 
 South isles of Orkney; containing 532 inhabitants. 
 This is a low island, bounded on the south by Water 
 Sound, and on the north by Holm Sound ; it is about 
 four miles in length, and one in breadth. The soil, which 
 affords good pasturage, is in general a light dry sand, 
 mixed in a few places with some coarse clay. Fishing 
 is the employment of a large portion of the population. 
 Across Water Sound is a ferry, a mile broad, to the island 
 of Ronaldshay. 
 
 BURRELTOWN, a village, in the parish of Car- 
 GiLL, county of Perth ; containing 485 inhabitants. 
 Here are a chapel of ease, unendowed, supported by 
 subscription, and a small school ; also a place of worship 
 for members of the Free Church. 
 
 BUSBY, a village, partly in the parish of East Kil- 
 bride, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, but 
 chiefly in the parish of Mearns, Upper ward of the 
 county of Renfrew; containing 902 inhabitants. This 
 village is pleasantly situated on the river White Cart, 
 the sides of which, abruptly precipitous and rocky, are 
 thickly wooded, and display much variety of scenery. 
 The inhabitants are employed chiefly in a print-field and 
 a factory in the immediate neighbourhood ; the print- 
 field is in the parish of East Kilbride, and the cotton- 
 factory, which was established in 1780, in that of Mearns. 
 A post has been instituted here, under the post-office 
 of Glasgow. 
 
 BUSHYHILL, a village, in the parish of Cambus- 
 lang. Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; contain- 
 ing 393 inhabitants. 
 
 BUTE, ISLE OF, in the county of Bute; com- 
 prising the parishes of North Bute, Kingarth, and 
 Rothesay, and containing 80/8 inhabitants. It is in the 
 Firth of Clyde, and separated from Cowal, a district of 
 Argyllshire, by a narrow channel. Its length is eighteen, 
 and its breadth between four and five, miles. The 
 northern parts are rocky and barren, but the southern 
 extremity is more fertile, well cultivated and inclosed, 
 and in some places finely wooded ; and it is said that 
 no part of Scotland has made more rapid progress in 
 agriculture than this island, within the last twenty or 
 thirty years. The climate is remarkably mild, especially 
 in winter and spring, and during these seasons the isle 
 is much resorted to by invalids. The coast is rocky, but 
 is indented with several safe harbours, in which a num- 
 ber of small craft are fitted out for the herring-fishery, 
 which is the principal occupation of the male inhabitants : 
 the chief port is Rothesay. The annual value of real 
 property in the island is £17,777- Bute contains several 
 remains of antiquity; in particular, near Rothesay are 
 the ruins of an ancient castle, with a fort, barracks, and 
 drawbridge, once a residence of the kings of Scotland. 
 There are some Danish towers, and fragments of fortifi- 
 cations on some of the hill-tops. 
 
 BUTE, NORTH, a new parish, taken out of the 
 parish of Rothesay, in the isle and county of Bute, 1^ 
 171 
 
 mile (N. W.) from Rothesay ; containing, with the island 
 of Inch-Marnock and village of Port-Bannatyne, 1091 
 inhabitants. This parish, which comprises about half 
 the island of Bute, owes its origin to the erection and 
 endowment in 1835, by the late Marquess of Bute, of an 
 elegant church for the accommodation of the inhabitants 
 in the northern portion of the parish of Rothesay. The 
 district was disjoined from Rothesay, and erected into a 
 separate parish, in June 1844, by a decree of the court 
 of teinds, and plantation of kirks, under the name of 
 North Bute. The church is pleasantly situated in a 
 valley between Kames bay on the east, and Etterick bay 
 on the west ; and the erection and endowment, and the 
 building of the manse, with other expenses attendant on 
 the completion of the marquess's design, were estimated 
 at £8000. The stipend of the minister is £150, with an 
 allowance of £12 in lieu of glebe, and £10 for communion 
 elements. The members of the Free Church have a place 
 of worship, with a school, at Port-Bannatyne; and a 
 parochial school is situated, rather inconveniently, at 
 Etterick, and supported by a salary from the marquess's 
 family, and by the fees. — See Port-Bannatyne. 
 
 BUTESHIRE, a county, on the western coast of 
 Scotland, consisting of the isles of Bute, Arran, Inch- 
 Marnock, and Great and Little Cumbray, in the Firth 
 of Clyde ; separated on the north from Argyllshire by 
 the straits called the Kyles of Bute, and on the west, 
 from the peninsula of Cantyre, by Kilbrannan Sound. 
 It lies between 5.5° 26' and 55° 56' (N. Lat.), and 4° 54' 
 and 5° 23' (W. Long.), and comprises an area of about 
 257 square miles, or 164,480 acres ; 3067 inhabited 
 houses, and ninety-seven uninhabited; with a population 
 of 15,740, of whom 7155 are males, and 8585 females. 
 The island of Bute, at a very early period, became the 
 property of Sir John Stuart, a son of Robert II. ; it was 
 confirmed to him by his brother, Robert HI., and is 
 still the property of his descendants, the Marquesses of 
 Bute. That of Arran was granted by James III. to Sir 
 James Hamilton, wliose descendant, the Earl of Arran, 
 was regent of Scotland during the minority of Mary, 
 Queen of Scots ; and it now is the property of the Duke 
 of Hamilton. The civil business of the county is trans- 
 acted at the royal burgh of Rothesay, which is the only 
 town ; and under the act of the 2nd of William IV., the 
 county returns a member to the imperial parliament. 
 
 The surface is various. The island of Bute, in the 
 central part, is diversified with hills affording excellent 
 pasturage, and with valleys of rich arable land in excel- 
 lent cultivation. Arran is rugged and mountainous, in- 
 terspersed with glens of moss, through which several 
 streams, descending from the heights, flow into the 
 sea. The highest of the mountains in Arran is Goat- 
 Fell, which has an elevation of 3500 feet above the sea ; 
 and from its summit is an extensive view embracing 
 England, Ireland, and the Isle of Man. In both islands 
 there are numerous lakes ; and the coasts are indented 
 with fine bays, the chief of which in Bute are, Kilchat- 
 tan, Rothesay, and Kames, on the east ; and Dungoil, 
 Stravannan, Scalpsie, St. Ninian's, and Etterick, on the 
 west. The bays in Arran are, Lamlash, which is acces- 
 sible in every wind. Whiting, and Brodick, on the east; 
 and Druimadoun and Machry, on the west. Opposite 
 to St. Ninian's bay is the island of Inch-Marnock, and 
 at the entrance of Lamlash bay is the Holy Island. 
 Freestone, limestone, slate, and an inferior kind of coal, 
 
 Z2
 
 C A B R 
 
 C ADD 
 
 are the prevailing substrata ; and near the shore are 
 some beds of coral and shells of great thickness. The 
 annual value of real property in the county is £31,16S2, 
 of which £20,597 are returned for lands, £9836 for 
 houses, and the remainder for other species of real pro- 
 perty. The chief seats are, Arran House, at the head 
 of the bay of Brodick ; and Mount Stuart, situated on 
 an acclivity opposite to the entrance of the Clyde. The 
 island of Bute gives the title of Marquess to the ancient 
 family of Stuart. 
 
 BUTTERGASK, a village, in the former quoad sacra 
 parish of Ardoch, parish of Dunblane, county of 
 Perth j containing 65 inhabitants. It is situated in 
 the eastern part of the parish, on a stream tributary to 
 the Allan, and a short distance from the road between 
 Auchterarder and Dunblane. 
 
 BYTH, NEW.— See Newbyth. 
 
 CABRACH, commonly called THE CABRACH, a pa- 
 rish, partly in the district of Alford, county of Aber- 
 deen, but chiefly in the county of Banff, 12 miles (W.) 
 from Clatt ; containing 827 inhabitants. This parish ex- 
 tends in length from north to south about twelve miles, 
 and about five miles in breadth in the upper end, and 
 three in the lower. The portion in the county of Aber- 
 deen consists of a deep tract in the form of a basin, 
 surrounded by hills, the highest of which is the Buck, 
 on the south, rising to the height of 2730 feet. This 
 part of the parish abounds much with moss and fir roots, 
 and hence arose the name of the whole parish, from cer- 
 tain Gaelic terms signifying " the timber moss". The 
 Banffshire portion, which is separated from the former 
 for about two miles by intervening hills, juts out into 
 three glens or valleys, skirted by lofty eminences, and 
 stretching along the courses of their different streams, 
 the Blackwater, Doveron, &c. Another river, in the 
 upper part of the parish, is called Ruster. The surface 
 is exceedingly rugged, and the entire district bleak, 
 wild, and mountainous, being occupied, to a great ex- 
 tent, with tracts of peat-moss, affording an inexhaustible 
 supply of fuel ; large moors abounding with grouse, 
 partridges, hares, and almost every kind of game ; and 
 waste land incapable of cultivation. The parts under 
 tillage bear a very small proportion to the aggregate 
 number of acres. Green crops, and grass for hay, 
 thrive better than grain ; oats and bear, which are the 
 kinds of grain chiefly sown, seldom come to maturity, 
 especially in the higher district, except in fine seasons, 
 lu the lower district, the climate is much more mild, 
 and not so subject to frosts. The inhabitants engage 
 in agricultural pursuits with great spirit, and have in- 
 troduced most of the improvements of the southern parts. 
 .\ considerable extent of waste has also been brought 
 under tillage within the present century, and inclosures 
 of various kinds are in progress ; but the bad state of 
 the roads, and the want of sufficient capital for their 
 repair or enlargement, render agricultural improvement 
 difficult. The cattle are the black native breed, large 
 numbers of which are reared, with a good many sheep ; 
 and much of the stock is sent for sale to the markets in 
 172 
 
 the south, as well as to the surrounding districts, most 
 of the farmers being cattle-dealers. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £2462, being £1632 for 
 the Banffshire portion, and £330 for the Aberdeenshire 
 portion. 
 
 The district abounds with limestone ; and a small 
 grey slate is occasionally dug up, and used chiefly for 
 building within the locality : small garnets are found in a 
 sort of serpentine, about two miles south of the manse ; 
 and asbestos, about two miles west, in great abundance. 
 The mountain streams supply abundance of trout ; the 
 Doveron, which rises here in several heads, contains 
 excellent salmon, and in addition to the game upon the 
 moors, the forests of Glen-fiddich and Blackwater are 
 well stocked with fine deer. There were formerly two 
 establishments for the distillation of malt spirits, pro- 
 ducing 10,000 gallons annually. An annual market is 
 held on the Thursday after the third Tuesday in July 
 (O. S.), and another on the Monday before the second 
 Tuesday in October (O. S.), chiefly for the sale of black- 
 cattle bred here. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the 
 presbytery of Alford, synod of Aberdeen, and in the 
 patronage of the Duke of Richmond : the stipend is 
 £158. 6. 7., of which nearly half is received from the 
 exchequer; there is a manse, built in 1802, and the 
 glebe consists of about twenty-eight acres, valued at £10 
 per annum. The church is a plain edifice, erected about 
 17S6. The parochial schoolmaster receives a salary of 
 £32. 2., with a few pounds derived from fees. Another 
 school has a small endowment from the Duke of Rich- 
 mond. On the farm of Spenwell, at a place called 
 " King's haugh", is an aucient ruin, traditionally re- 
 ported to have been the residence of Malcolm Canmore ; 
 and near Lesmurdie, on the north bank of the Doveron, 
 are the remains of a chapel and burying-ground. Ca- 
 brach lays claim to the old ballad and beautiful tune of 
 " Roy's Wife of Aldiwalloch" ; the walls of Roy's house 
 are still standing, and several of his descendants live in 
 the parish. 
 
 CADDER, or CALDER, a parish, in the Lower 
 ward of the county of Lanark, 3 miles (W. by S.) from 
 Kirkintilloch, and 4^ (N. by E.) from Glasgow ; con- 
 taining, with the village of Auchinearn, the hamlet of 
 Bishopbridge, and the former quoad sacra district of 
 Chryston, 4425 inhabitants. This place derives its name 
 from its situation in the midst of a district abounding 
 with wood and water, of which its appellation in the old 
 British language. Colder, is significant. It is supposed to 
 have owed its origin as a parish to the foundation of a 
 church by St. Patrick, who is said to have been born in 
 the immediate vicinity, and, towards the close of the 
 fifth century, to have founded numerous other churches 
 in the neighbourhood, which were subsequently endowed 
 by Convallus II. with lands for the maintenance of their 
 respective clergy. The parish is about fourteen miles 
 in length, and four in breadth. Its surface, which is 
 generally undulating, is diversified with various tributary 
 streams that fall into the river Kelvin, the parish boun- 
 dary on the north and west. Of the lakes the most 
 important were, Auchinloch, nearly in the centre of the 
 parish, from which, on its being drained some years 
 since, a stream was conducted under the Forth and 
 Clyde canal to the Kelvin ; Loch Grog, drained in 1844 ; 
 and Robroyston loch, in the western part, now almost 
 reclaimed into arable land, and two-thirds of which are
 
 C ADD 
 
 C A ER 
 
 beyond the boundaries of Cadder. Johnston loch, in 
 the eastern part, is about a mile in circumference, and 
 is employed, by the Forth and Clyde Company, as a 
 reservoir for supplying their canal, for which purpose, 
 also, they have appropriated the Bishop's loch, a small 
 portion of which is within this parish. 
 
 The SOIL is extremely various ; in some parts, a rich 
 black loam; in others, mossy; on the banks of the 
 various streams, chiefly alluvial ; and in some parts, 
 sandy. Several of the mosses have been reclaimed, 
 affording excellent crops. About 9000 acres of land 
 are in cultivation, about 300 are deep moss, and there 
 are something more than 500 acres in plantations, the 
 principal of which, on the Cadder estate, contains many 
 trees of ancient and luxuriant growth. There are several 
 extensive dairy-farms, mostly stocked with cows of the 
 Ayrshire breed. The crops are oats, wheat, potatoes, 
 barley, rye, and turnips, in the production of which the 
 improved system of agriculture is adopted. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £21,941. The 
 substratum is partly freestone, and a whinstone dyke 
 which extends from the river Clyde to the river Forth 
 runs the whole length of the parish ; the freestone 
 is of the finest quality, and great quantities of it are 
 sent to Glasgow, where it is used in the construction of 
 the principal buildings. Limestone is prevalent, and is 
 largely wrought : coal, also, exists in the parish, at a 
 considerable depth, but the quality is not sufficiently 
 good to remunerate the labour of working it. There 
 are some extensive tracts of cla)', for pottery and bricks ; 
 various elegant specimens of vases and chimney cases 
 have been produced, and fire-bricks, crucibles, common 
 bricks, house-tiles, and draining-tiles are made. Iron- 
 stone abounds, and is wrought to a considerable extent 
 by the Carron Company. The Forth and Clyde canal 
 intersects the western portion of the parish for upwards 
 of five miles, passing in a line nearly parallel with the 
 river Kelvin. The Kirkintilloch railway, opened in 1826, 
 crosses its eastern extremity ; the Garnkirk and Glasgow 
 railway, opened in 1831, passes on the south side, for 
 several miles, and the line of the Edinburgh and Glasgow 
 railway, opened in 1842, divides the parish into two 
 unequal portions. The village of Cadder, formerly ex- 
 tensive, contains at present only sixty-four inhabitants, 
 employed on the lands of its proprietor, whose mansion, 
 lately enlarged, forms the principal object of interest in 
 the place. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Glasgow, synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr ; the patronage is in the Heritors and Kirk 
 Session, and the stipend of the incumbent is £280. 8., with 
 a manse, and a glebe of about ten acres. The church, 
 erected in 1830, is a neat edifice of stone, in the early 
 English style, with a square tower, and is adapted for a 
 congregation of about 800 persons. There are three 
 parochial schools, situated respectively at Cadder, 
 Chryston, and Auchinearn : the master in Cadder has 
 a salary of £26, and the fees amount to about £.56 ; the 
 master at Chryston has £17. with about £.56 fees, and 
 the master of Auchinearn has £8. 10., with £12 fees, 
 and the interest of 1000 merks bequeathed by the Rev. 
 James Warden, a former incumbent. Another school, 
 in the villageof Auchinloch, is endowed with the interest 
 of £300, bequeatlied by Patrick Baird, Esq.; and a fifth 
 school, which is free, has been lately built at Bishop- 
 173 
 
 bridge, by the family at Cadder, who allow the mistress 
 £40 per annum. The vullum Aiitouini, or Graham's 
 Dyke, is situated nearly parallel with the Kelvin, at a 
 distance from it of about half a mile : its remains are 
 very distinct near the church and glebe. Within the 
 parish were four stations on the wall, at Easter Cadder, 
 the church, Hilton, and Balmuldie. In the eastern wing 
 of the House of Cadder is a stone found in the neigh- 
 bourhood, a representation of which, with the Roman 
 inscription, may be seen in Camden's Britannia. In 
 1813, a gold coin of Antoninus Pius was discovered, in 
 a very perfect state, on clearing out the pond of Cadder ; 
 and in levelling the lawn before the house, the founda- 
 tions of the old tower appeared, in which was found a 
 vessel containing more than 300 gold coins, of the size 
 of a shilling, with the inscription Jacobus. — See Chrys- 
 ton. 
 
 CAERLAVEROCK, a parish, in the county of Dum- 
 fries, 5 miles (S. S. E.) from Dumfries ; containing, 
 with the villages of Bankhead, Blackshaw, Glencaple- 
 Quay, Glenhowan, Sherrington, and part of Kelton, 1297 
 inhabitants. Different opinions exist in regard to the 
 derivation of the name of this parish, some interpreting 
 the words of which it is composed, " the castle with the 
 buttress jutting out ", and others, " the castle close upon 
 the sea"; referring to the most prominent historical me- 
 morial in the place, the singularly formed and strong 
 fortress called Caerlaverock Castle. It stands near the 
 shores of the Solway Firth, and is of triangular figure, 
 having a double moat, with portcullis after portcullis, to 
 defend the entrance : there is also a provision for the 
 discharge of a torrent of molten lead on the heads of 
 the besiegers. The existing castle is the second build- 
 ing, the first, which has long been totally destroyed, 
 having nothing left but the foundations : these are 
 visible about 300 yards from the more modern struc- 
 ture, and indicate the old castle to have been somewhat 
 smaller than the present, but of the same form. The 
 original castle is said to have been founded in the sixth 
 century by Llywarch Og, and in the days of King Mal- 
 colm Canmore to have been the chief seat of the ancient 
 and illustrious family of Maxwell. It was attacked and 
 taken by King Edward I., who afterwards passed several 
 days here. The time when the second castle was built 
 has not been precisely ascertained, but it is known to 
 have been before the year 1425. In 1570 it was ruined 
 by the Earl of Sussex, who had been sent with an Eng- 
 lish army to support James VI., after the murder of the 
 regent. It was, however, reinstated in its former strength 
 by Robert, first Earl of Nithsdale, in 1638 ; and during 
 the troubles of Charles I., its owner, who supported the 
 royal cause with all his energies, was ordered by that 
 monarch to yield it up, on the best terms he could ob- 
 tain. After the siege by Cromwell, it was found to con- 
 tain eighty-six beds, forty carpets, and a library worth 
 £200. Caerlaverock Castle was the place Sir Walter 
 Scott had in his mind as the chief scene in the novel of 
 iiuij Mannering : it was here that Dirk Hatteraick was 
 imprisoned by Gilbert Glossin. 
 
 The PARISH is six miles long and about two broad, 
 containing 5800 acres. It is bounded on the south by 
 the Solway Firth ; on the east, by the Lochar ; and on 
 the west, by the river Nith, which separates it from 
 the county of Kirkcudbright. In this part the Solway 
 is about twelve miles wide. The Nith is affected by the
 
 C A I R 
 
 C AIR 
 
 tide as far as Dumfries, but at low water is easily ford- 
 able ; it forms about six miles of the boundary line of 
 the parish. The Lochar, on the other side, flows through 
 an extensive moss, which prevents all communication 
 in that quarter, except in the driest months of summer, 
 and then it is passable only by pedestrians. The soil, 
 to some extent, is mossy, but its general character is 
 that of light loam ; and in this district the worst soil is 
 usually in the valleys : 43'23 acres are cultivated, and 
 produce all kinds of white and green crops ; 126 acres are 
 in wood, 7o acres are moss and river, and 252 marsh. 
 Lochar Moss is chiefly in the parishes of Dumfries, 
 Torthorwald, and Mouswald, about a hundred acres 
 only being in this parish. The cattle are of the Gal- 
 loway breed, with a few Ayrshire cows, and the sheep 
 are the Leicesters. The best system of agriculture is 
 followed, and the improvements lately made in every 
 department have been considerable, especially in the 
 liberal application of bone-dust manure, which has 
 greatly advanced turnip husbandry. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £4495. The rocks 
 almost throughout consist of red sandstone, which is 
 easily wrought, and durable, and is used for many pur- 
 poses. At Glencaple-Quay, the chief village, large 
 vessels bound for Dumfries unload when unable from 
 their burthen to reach their place of destination. There 
 is a salmon-fishery connected with the parish, valued at 
 £100 per annum, and a white-fishing is valued at £40. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dumfries and synod of Dumfries ; patron, 
 the Marquess of Queensberry. The stipend of the minister 
 is £177, with a manse, rebuilt in 1S38 by the heritors, 
 and a glebe of nearly twenty acres, valued at £32 per 
 annum. The church, built in 1781, contains 470 sittings. 
 There is a parochial school, in which mathematics, the 
 classics, and all the usual branches of education are 
 taught ; the master has the maximum salary, with fees, 
 and a sum from the Hutton bequest. Two other schools 
 are supported out of bequests, and there is a parochial 
 library, instituted in 1833. Dr. John Hutton, first 
 physician to Queen Anne, was born here, and after 
 realizing a handsome fortune by his profession, became 
 a munificent benefactor to his native parish. He built 
 a manse for the minister, and left £1000, the interest 
 to be bestowed in educational and charitable purposes 
 by the minister and elders : this money was invested 
 in land, and now produces a rental of £500 a year. 
 He also left a valuable library to the presbytery of 
 Dumfries, comprising the prayer-book used by the un- 
 fortunate King Charles when on the scaffold. This 
 prayer-book, however, was some time ago abstracted, 
 and sold at an auction in London for a large sum : it is 
 supposed to have been originally lent from the presby- 
 tery library, and then passed from friend to friend, the 
 interesting relic being at length sold bv auction. 
 
 CAIRNBEDDIE, a hamlet, in the parish of St. 
 Martin's, county of Perth ; containing 44 inhabitants. 
 It is situated a very short distance north of the village 
 of St. Martin's. — See Martin's, St. 
 
 CAIRNBULG, a village, in the parish of Rathen, 
 district of Deer, county of Ahekdeen, 3 miles (N. N. E.) 
 from Rathen ; containing 406 inhabitants. This is a 
 fishing-village, situated on the north-eastern coast of 
 Fraserburgh bay, called Cairnbulg Point. It closely 
 adjoins Inverallochie, another village, the inhabitants 
 
 174: 
 
 of which are also fishers. Here are the ruins of an old 
 castle, which seems to have been of considerable strength, 
 and was the seat of the predecessors of Lord Saltoun. 
 It was called Philorth, until sold by Sir Alexander 
 Eraser in 16 13 to Eraser of Durris, when its name was 
 changed to Cairnbulg, Sir Alexander transferring that 
 of Philorth to another mansion, about a mile westward, 
 which has ever since been the residence of the Lords 
 Saltoun. 
 
 CAIRNEY-HILL, a village, in the parish of Car- 
 nock, district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 3 
 miles (W. S. W.) from Dunfermline; containing 516 in- 
 habitants. This village, which is pleasantly situated 
 on the banks of the burn of Pitdennies, consists of 
 one long street of neat houses, on the road leading from 
 Dunfermline to Alloa. It is inhabited chiefly by per- 
 sons employed in the manufacture of table-linen, and 
 of table-covers, for the wholesale houses at Dunfermline, 
 which is carried on by hand-loom weaving at their 
 own dwellings ; a considerable number are also engaged 
 in the adjacent collieries. A library has been esta- 
 blished many years, and is supported by subscription. 
 There is a place of worship for the United Presbyterian 
 Synod. 
 
 CAIRNIE, a parish, chiefly in the district of 
 Strathbogie, county of Aberdeen, but partly in the 
 county of Banff, 4 miles (N. W.) from Huntly ; con- 
 taining 1638 inhabitants. This place formed part of 
 the lordship of Strathbogie, which was granted to Sir 
 Adam Gordon, by King Robert Bruce, after the defeat 
 and attainder of Cumin, Earl of Badenoch. It was the 
 original estate of the family of Gordon, whose property 
 afterwards became greatly extended. The surface is 
 hilly, and comprehends an area of forty-eight square 
 miles, of which extent 8000 acres are in tillage, and 
 2600 acres were planted in the year 1839 with nearly 
 seven million trees by the Duke of Richmond, who is 
 proprietor of almost the whole parish. The soil in the 
 vicinity of the streams is fertile, and the husbandry on 
 a respectable footing. Extensive limeworks are in opera- 
 tion at Ardonald, which, in the twenty-three years 
 previous to 1S42, produced a revenue of £69,770, and 
 gave employment to forty workmen for nine months 
 annually. The mosses supply part of the fuel consumed, 
 the remainder of which consists of coal brought from 
 the coast, eighteen miles distant ; the substrata comprise 
 granite, hornblende, greenstone, clay-slate, and a few 
 other varieties. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £5145. Grain, black-cattle, and dairy- 
 produce, which are the principal marketable commo- 
 dities, are taken for sale to Huntly, or sent to the coast. 
 Facilities of communication are afforded by the road 
 from Aberdeen to Inverness, which passes through the 
 parish. Cairnie is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of 
 Strathbogie, synod of Moray, and in the patronage of 
 the Duke of Richmond; the minister's stipend is £210, 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £25 per annum. 
 The church, which occupies a central situation, was 
 built at the beginning of the present century. There is 
 a place of worship for members of the Free Church. 
 The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £18. 16., with 
 sixteen bolls of meal, and £15 fees ; he also shares in 
 the Dick bequest. 
 
 CAIRNIE-HILL, in the county of Perth.— See 
 Caknie-Hill.
 
 C A IT 
 
 C A LD 
 
 CAIRNRYAN, a village, in the parish of Inch, 
 county of Wigtown, 6 miles (N. by E.) from Stranraer ; 
 containing 196 inhabitants. It is seated on the east 
 side of Loch Ryan, and has a safe harbour, with good 
 anchorage, affording shelter in adverse weather to vessels 
 entering into, or coming from, the Firth of Clyde. The 
 village is well situated for foreign trade, and also 
 adapted for ship-building. It has a chapel in connexion 
 with the Establishment, and also a place of worship for 
 members of the Free Church. 
 
 CAITHNESS-SHIRE, a county, in the north-east of 
 Scotland, bounded on the north by the Pentland Firth ; 
 on the east and south-east, by the North Sea ; and on 
 the west and south-west, by the county of Sutherland. 
 It lies between 58° 10' and 58° 40' (N. Lat.), and 3° and 
 3° 65' (W. Long.), and is about forty-three miles in 
 length, and thirty miles in breadth ; comprising an area 
 of 618 square miles, or 395,520 acres; 6965 inhabited 
 houses, and 216 uninhabited; and a population of 
 36,343, of whom 17,135 are males, and 19, '208 females. 
 On account of its remote situation, Caithness had little 
 intercourse with the principal parts of the country, and 
 is consequently connected with few historical events of 
 importance, except occasional hostilities with the Danes 
 and Norwegians, of which there are some memorials in 
 various monumental relics. From ancient records, it 
 appears to have been erected into an earldom in 875 ; 
 the title, after being for a long period in abeyance, was 
 revived in favour of William Sinclair, a descendant of 
 Robert II., in 1455. Many of the men of Caithness 
 attended James IV. at the battle of Flodden Field, under 
 the Earl of Caithness ; and scarcely an individual of the 
 number survived that fatal conflict. Before the aboli- 
 tion of episcopacy, this county, with Sutherland, con- 
 stituted a diocese, of which the cathedral and episcopal 
 palace were situated at Dornoch ; it is at present in the 
 synod of Sutherland and Caithness, and comprises one 
 presbytery and ten parishes. For civil purposes it is 
 divided into the districts of Wick and Thurso, where the 
 quarter-sessions and other courts are held alternately, 
 Wick being the seat of the sheriff court. It contains 
 the royal burgh of Wick, which is the county town ; the 
 town of Thurso ; and a few inconsiderable villages. 
 
 The SURFACE is generally level, with the exception of 
 some mountainous tracts on the borders of Sutherland, 
 and a few eminences in other parts. The chief moun- 
 tains are, the Ord of Caithness, which has an elevation 
 of 1250 feet ; the Scarry hills, 1876 feet ; and the Maiden 
 Paps, an elevation of 2000 feet, above the sea. One of 
 the principal valleys is that of Berriedale, at the base of 
 the last ridge of mountains ; and the plain of Caithness, 
 extending to the Pentland Firth, comprises about four- 
 fifths of the lands : it is interspersed with detached hills, 
 some of which are of considerable height. There are 
 numerous lakes, but none of any great extent ; and of 
 the streams which intersect the county in many parts, 
 only the Forrs and Thurso waters in the north-west, 
 and the Wick and Berriedale waters in the south-east, 
 approach the resemblance of rivers. The coast is bold, 
 rocky, and precipitous, indented with numerous bays, 
 and marked by lofty promontories. Along the shore of 
 Pentland Firth are caverns in the rocks, from which the 
 agitated waters, ascending with prodigious force, over- 
 spread the neighbourhood with incessant foam ; and 
 about four miles to the north of the coast, and nearly in 
 175 
 
 the centre of the Firth, is the island of Stroma, which 
 forms part of the county. The bays are those of Sand- 
 side, Thurso, Dunnet, and Gills, on the north ; and Dun- 
 cans, Freswick, Sinclair, and Wick, on the east : the 
 most prominent headlands are Holburn, Dwarrick, 
 Dunnet, Duncans, Skirsa, Noss, and Wick. A little 
 more than a fifth part of the land is in cultivation, con- 
 sisting chiefly of tracts near the rivers, and the slopes 
 of the various eminences ; the remainder is mostly moor, 
 some parts of which are nearly 300 feet above the sea. 
 During the last thirty or forty years, the county has 
 made extraordinary progress in agricultural and all public 
 improvements. The annual value of the real property in 
 the county is £66,572, of which £57,982 are returned for 
 lands, £6870 for houses, £1035 for fisheries, and £685 
 for quarries. The principal seats are Barogill Castle, 
 Thurso Castle, Dunbeath, Freswick, Hempriggs, Acker- 
 gill, Barroch, Forrs, and Sandside. The herring-fishery 
 off the east coast is extensive and lucrative, indeed the 
 most important in Britain. There is a spacious harbour 
 at Wick, besides several other small harbours for the 
 vessels engaged in the fisheries ; and considerable quan- 
 tities of grain, cattle, and wool are shipped. The county 
 gives the title of Earl to the ancient family of Sinclair. 
 
 CALDER, Inverness and Nairn. — See Cawdor. 
 
 CALDER, county of Lanark. — See Cadder. 
 
 CALDER BANK and BRAES, a village, in the 
 parish of Old Monkland, Middle ward of the county 
 of Lanark ; containing 1064 inhabitants. It is seated 
 on the banks of the river Calder, and south of the high 
 road from Airdrie to the city of Glasgow. The Calder 
 here, flowing on the south, separates the parish from 
 that of Bothwell. 
 
 CALDER, EAST.— See Kirknewton. 
 
 CALDER, MID, a parish, in the county of Edin- 
 burgh ; containing, with the villages of Mid-Calder and 
 Bells-Quarry, 1456 inhabitants, of whom 550 are in the 
 village of Mid-Calder, 12 miles (W.) from Edinburgh. 
 This place, which was in the extensive district of Calder, 
 obtained the appellation of Calder-Comitis, from its 
 having been the property of the Earls of Fife, in the 
 twelfth century. In the sixteenth century the barony 
 was part of the possessions of Sir James Sandilands, 
 whose descendant, Lord Torphichen, is the present pro- 
 prietor. The large parish of Calder-Coinitis was divided 
 by the presbytery of Linlithgow, in 1645, into the two 
 parishes designated Mid and West Calder. Mid-Calder 
 is about seven miles in length, and from two to three miles 
 in breadth, comprising 12,339 acres, of which about 200 
 acres are woodland and plantations, and of the remain- 
 der about one-third arable and two-thirds meadow and 
 pasture. Its surface is generally an extensive plain, 
 bounded on the south by a ridge called the Cairn Hills, 
 forming a continuation of the Pentland range, and of 
 which the highest has an elevation of about 1 800 feet 
 above the sea, commanding an unbounded view of the 
 Firth of Forth, with the adjacent country towards Stir- 
 ling, the coast of Fife, and the Ochils. The principal 
 streams are, the river Almond, and the Murieston and 
 Linhouse waters, which latter unite their streams, and 
 flow into the Almond a little to the north of the village. 
 The scenery is pleasingly varied, and enriched with wood; 
 the ancient forest of Calder has been greatly diminished 
 in the progress of cultivation, but there are still consi- 
 derable remains of stately timber, and also extensive
 
 C A LD 
 
 C ALD 
 
 modern plantations, consisting of common and spruce 
 firs, larch, oak, ash, beech, and elm. 
 
 The SOIL, along the banks of the river and its tribu- 
 tary streams, is a rich, dry, and fertile loam, and in 
 some parts clay, which has been greatly improved by 
 draining and the use of lime. The arable lands produce 
 favourable crops of grain ; but the principal reliance of 
 the farmers is on the dairies, which are well managed ; 
 and on many of the farms a considerable number of 
 sheep are pastured. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £"667. The substrata are chiefly free- 
 stone, limestone, and whinstone, all of which have been 
 extensively wrought. A quarry of limestone has long 
 been in operation, on the lands of Easter Murieston. In 
 Calder Wood is a quarry of freestone excellent for every 
 kind of building ; and there are quarries of freestone 
 underneath the Cairn hills. Ironstone is found in the 
 beds of the rivers, but not in sufficient quantity to re- 
 munerate the labour of working it. Lead-ore has been 
 discovered on several parts of the Harburn estate, but it 
 has not been wrought ; and seams of coal have been 
 met with in the upper districts of the parish, one of 
 which is nearly four feet in thickness. Calder House, 
 the seat of Lord Torphichen, is a spacious and elegant 
 mansion, beautifully situated on the bank of the Murie- 
 ston water near its confluence with the river A.lmond, in 
 an ample demesne richly embellished with stately timber. 
 lu the more ancient part of the structure the walls are 
 seven feet in thickness ; and in the old hall, now the 
 drawing-room, John Knox, for the first time after the 
 Reformation, publicly administered the sacrament of the 
 Lord's Supper, according to the protestant form : in this 
 room are portraits of the Reformer, and Mary, Queen of 
 Scots. In the centre of the kitchen is a deep draw-well, 
 from which is a subterraneous passage to the village. 
 Murieston Castle, another seat, has been repaired and 
 partly rebuilt by the proprietor ; and the ancient man- 
 sion of Linhouse, now Burnbrae, is an embattled struc- 
 ture, with towers in good preservation. There are other 
 mansions in the parish. The village is pleasantly situa- 
 ted on the road from Edinburgh to Glasgow, on an 
 eminence between the Almond and the Linhouse water, 
 and under the shelter of Calder Wood. There are two 
 paper-mills ; and fairs are held on the second Tuesday 
 in March, and the Friday after the second Tuesday in 
 October, for the sale of cattle and horses, and for hiring 
 farm servants. Great facility of intercourse is aff"orded 
 by the Caledonian railway. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the synod of Lothian 
 and Tweeddale and presbytery of Linlithgow. The 
 minister's stipend, including £8. 6. 8. for communion 
 elements, is £15S. 6. 8., of which £88. I7. 10. are paid 
 by the exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe of forty- 
 three acres, valued at £64 per annum : patron. Lord 
 Torphichen. Mid-Calder church, an ancient structure 
 in the pointed style, contains 438 sittings. There is a 
 place of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod. 
 The parochial school is well attended : the master has a 
 salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees, 
 &c., average £6.'i ; he also receives the proceeds of a be- 
 quest for teaching music, amounting to £11. The an- 
 cient castle of Cairns, of which there are some remains, 
 consisting of a tower, is supposed to have been founded 
 by Sir William Crichton, lord high-admiral of Scotland, 
 in 1440. In the south-west part of the parish, on the 
 176 
 
 summit of an eminence called Castle Grey, are tolerably 
 perfect remains of a Roman camp, in which various Ro- 
 man coins have been found. There are also numerous 
 tumuli on the banks of the river Almond, and artificial 
 mounds, four of which, on its south bank, point out the 
 field of a battle between the Picts and Scots. John 
 Spottiswood, Archbishop of St. Andrew's, was a native of 
 the parish. 
 
 CALDER, WEST, a parish, in the county of Edin- 
 BrRGH, 165 miles (W. S. W.) from Edinburgh; con- 
 taining 1666 inhabitants, of whom 434 are in the village. 
 This parish is of triangular form, situated in the south- 
 western extremity of the county, and bounded on the 
 north by Linlithgowshire, from which it is separated by 
 the Breich water, a stream tributary to the river Almond, 
 and for a short way by the Almond itself : on the east it 
 is bounded by the parish of Mid-Calder; on the south- 
 west and south, by Lanarkshire ; and at one point on the 
 south, by Peeblesshire. It is about ten miles in length, 
 comprising about 20,000 acres. The surface bordering 
 on Lanark is elevated and hilly, attaining a height of 700 
 feet above the sea, and, though greatly improved by re- 
 cent plantations, having still a bleak and cold appear- 
 ance. At the southern extremity of the parish, the three 
 counties of Edinburgh, Lanark, and Peebles meet in a 
 point ; and near the western extremity is a point where 
 the counties of Edinburgh, Lanark, and Linlithgow meet. 
 The soil is chiefly a black mossy earth, naturally moist, 
 lying on a till bottom ; and there are some extensive 
 tracts of moor, interspersed with arable land of moderate 
 fertility. The system of agriculture has of late been much 
 improved, and the soil, which in many parts is very wet, 
 has been rendered much more productive by draining. 
 The crops raised here are oats, wheat, barley, flax, peas, 
 turnips, and potatoes. The hills afford good pasture for 
 sheep and cattle, of which large numbers are reared ; 
 great attention has been paid of late years to the ma- 
 nagement of dairy-farms, and excellent butter and cheese 
 are sent to the Edinburgh market. In general the farms 
 are of moderate extent ; and most of those which are 
 chiefly arable, contain a considerable portion of moorland. 
 The plantations, principally of fir, and which were for- 
 merly confined to the lands around the houses of the 
 proprietors, have been much extended ; indeed, a general 
 improvement in the appearance of the district has recently 
 taken place. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £7090. 
 
 The chief substrata are limestone and coal, the former 
 more adapted for building purposes than for manure ; a 
 seam for burning into lime is wrought on the estate of 
 Handexwood, where there is a regular lime-work, pro- 
 ducing good lime : limestone for burning into lime is 
 also wrought at Baads-mill, on the estate of Baads, but 
 the lime is not so good. A small coal is wrought along 
 with the limestone at Baads-mill, and good coal is worked 
 on another part of the same estate, and on the Woodmuir 
 and Loganlee estates. Ironstone has for many years 
 been wrought at Handexwood, by the Wilsontown Iron 
 Company, and for the last few years on the estate of Mul- 
 dren, by the Shotts Company, though not to any very 
 great extent. The principal houses are, Hermand, erected 
 by the late Lord Hermand, in 1797; Limefield and Har- 
 burn, in 1804 ; andHartwood, in 1807. The Caledonian 
 railway, and the high road from Edinburgh to Ayr, pass 
 through the parish. Ecclesiastically the parish is with- 
 
 I
 
 CALL 
 
 CALL 
 
 in the bounds of the synod of Lothian and Tweed- 
 dale and the presbytery of Linlithgow ; patron, John 
 Drysdale, Esq. The minister's stipend, by augmenta- 
 tion from government, is £158. 6. 8., of which above 
 two-thirds are received from the exchequer ; the manse, 
 rebuilt in 1837, is a handsome residence, and the glebe 
 comprises twenty-four acres, valued at £'24 per annum. 
 West CaUler church was built in 1 643. In 1 844 a place of 
 worship in connexion with the Free Church was erected, 
 and there is a meeting-house for the United Presbyterian 
 Synod. The parochial school is attended by about eighty- 
 five children ; the master has a salary of £34, with an 
 excellent house and a good garden, and the fees average 
 about £16. On the lands of Harburn, at the south- 
 eastern extremity of the parish, are vestiges of an ancient 
 castle, said to have been fortified by Oliver Cromwell to 
 check the depredations committed by the moss-troopers : 
 these lands are partly in the parish of Mid-Calder. Upon 
 the summit of a hill called Castle Craig are the remains 
 of a Roman camp of small extent, near which several 
 Roman coins have been found. 
 
 CALF, an island, in the parish of Kilninian and 
 KiLMORE, district of Mull, county of Argyll. This 
 island, which is of extremely small extent, lies off Tober- 
 mory, in the north-eastern part of the parish, and in that 
 portion of the Sound of Mull which borders on Loch 
 Sunart. Its length is about three times as great as its 
 breadth, and it stretches in a direction parallel to the 
 coast of the main land. 
 
 CALLANDER, a parish, in the county of Perth ; 
 containing, with the villages of Callander and Kilmahog, 
 166.5 inhabitants, of whom 1 107 are in the village of Cal- 
 lander, 6 miles (N. N. E.) from Port of Monteith. This 
 place derives its name, of Gaelic origin, from an ancient 
 ferry across the river Teith, the principal road to which 
 lay within its limits. The parish is about eighteen miles 
 in lengtli, and varies greatly in breadth, being in some 
 parts scarcely a mile, and in others full ten miles. It is 
 bounded on the north and north-west by a branch of the 
 Grampians, and the scenery is boldly varied by hills and 
 mountains, the most prominent of them being Ben-Ledi, 
 which has an elevation of 2863 feet above the sea, and 
 forms a boundary of the valley that contains the village. 
 A hill near the village is likewise a very interesting fea- 
 ture in the landscape, being richly clothed with flourish- 
 ing plantations, formed some years since by Lady Wil- 
 loughby de Eresby. The hill called the Crag of Callan- 
 der bounds the vale on the north, and the Teith, with its 
 wooded banks, adds materially to the beauty of the scen- 
 ery. This river proceeds from the union of two streams 
 which run, respectively, on the east and south sides of 
 Ben-Ledi ; and over it is a bridge at the village, from 
 which the view in every direction is strikingly pictu- 
 resque. The stream that runs on the east side of Ben- 
 Ledi issues from the mountain lake denominated Loch 
 Lubnaig, and flows rapidly through the narrow pass of 
 Leny, an opening which affords access from the low 
 country into the wild recesses of the Highlands : this 
 pass is skirted with waving woods, and bound in by 
 lofty mountains, the whole forming a scene of great sub- 
 limity. Another river, named the Kelty, forms a boun- 
 dary to the parish on the eastern side, and after a devi- 
 ous course falls into the Teith ; across it is a rustic foot- 
 bridge at Brackland, which is an object of great interest, 
 and much admired on account of the grand view it 
 Vol. I.— 177 
 
 commands of the fine falls of Brackland. There are 
 various lakes, some of which are caused by the natural 
 obstructions that the rivers find in their course ; Loch 
 Venachoir, on the south of Ben-Ledi, is about four 
 miles in length, and connected with it are the lakes of 
 Auchray and Katrine, both rich in picturesque beauty, 
 and which are described in the article on Aberfoyle, an 
 adjoining parish. Glenfinlas, wholly in the parish, 
 forms a tract ten miles in extent, at one time a royal 
 hunting-forest ; it is destitute of the smallest symptoro 
 of habitation or of cultivation, and any one may be re- 
 commended to traverse it who desires to gain a complete 
 notion of an Ossianic desert, in all its sterile and lonely 
 wildness. 
 
 The lakes, as also the rivers, abound with trout and 
 other fish, among which are eels, pike, perch, char, and 
 salmcm ; and the lakes are frequented by different 
 kinds of aquatic fowl. The parish is well wooded, and 
 extensive plantations have been formed : the timber is 
 principally oak, ash, alder, birch, fir, larch, hazel, and 
 willow ; the oak is much cultivated, and a considerable 
 quantity of bark is sold to the tanners. In this parish 
 the soil varies greatly ; and little more, even of the low 
 lands, is cultivated than is sufficient for the supfily of 
 the inhabitants, who are chiefly attentive to the rearing 
 of cattle and sheep, for which the hills and vales afford 
 excellent pasturage. The system of agriculture, as far 
 as it is practised upon the few arable farms in the parish, 
 is improved ; and the crops are oats of various kinds, 
 barley, potatoes, and turnips. The breed of black-cattle 
 is much attended to ; the Cheviot and Leicestershire 
 breeds of sheep are pastured on the low lands, and the 
 black-faced on the hills. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £7'200. The substrata are 
 limestone, slate, freestone, and pudding-stone. Of these, 
 the limestone is of good quality, and is worked not only 
 for the supply of this parish, but for many others, and 
 considerable quantities of lime are sent to distant parts. 
 The slate is of a brownish colour, and not very durable, 
 but was formerly quarried on several lands ; the free- 
 stone, which is grey, is excellent, and extensively quar- 
 ried for building. The proprietor of Gart has erected a 
 spacious and handsome residence on the north bank of 
 the Teith ; the grounds are tastefully embellished, and 
 command some highly interesting views. 
 
 The village, which is on the great road from Stirling 
 to the Western Highlands, consists chiefly of one spa- 
 cious street ; the houses are well built of stone, and 
 roofed with slate, and the inhabitants are amply sup- 
 plied with water, which is conveyed by leaden pipes. 
 There is a subscription library. A considerable trade is 
 carried on, and great quantities of wool are sent to 
 Bannockburn, Glasgow, and Liverpool, for the use of 
 carpet manufacturers. A daily post has been esta- 
 blished under Stirling, and here is an agency for the 
 Bank of Scotland. A market is still held ; fairs occur 
 in March and May, for black-cattle, sheep, and horses, 
 and some smaller fairs are holden for lambs, the hiring 
 of farm servants, and other business. There is also a 
 spacious inn, for the atcommodation of the numerous 
 parties who frequent this place to view the many inter- 
 esting spots in the neighbourhood. In 1846 an act of 
 parliament was passed for the construction of a line of 
 railway from the Scottish Central railway at Dunblane 
 to Doune and Callander. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 
 2 A
 
 C ALT 
 
 C AMB 
 
 in the presbytery of Dunblane and synod of Perth and 
 Stirling: the minister's stipend is about £198, with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £38 per annum ; patron, 
 the Crown. The church, a neat edifice with a tower 
 and spire, was erected in 17*3, and is adapted for a 
 congregation of 800 persons. A place of worship has 
 been erected in connexion with the Free Church. The 
 parochial school affords a liberal education ; the master 
 has a salary of £34, with £36 fees, and a house and 
 garden. 
 
 About a mile from the village is a hill rising per- 
 pendicularly 300 feet, and having on the summit the 
 remains of an ancient fortification from which the 
 height takes the name of " Dun-bo-chaistil ". The 
 gateway, and several traces of ditches and mounds, 
 are distinctly visible ; and within the inclosure is a 
 well, which has been filled in to prevent accidents to 
 the cattle that feed there. In the plain immediately 
 around is a mound of earth, strengthened with stones, 
 which may probably have been an outpost ; but the 
 history of this relic of ancient times is not known. Near 
 the manse are the remains of Callander Castle, once a 
 square building of great strength ; and on the lands of 
 Auchinlaich are those of an ancient fort, in good pre- 
 servation, and nearly entire. There is a circular mount 
 of considerable height near the churchyard, called the 
 Hill of St. Kessaig ; and a fair is held there annually 
 in March, called the festival of St. Kessaig. About half 
 a mile to the west of it is a similar tumulus, called Little 
 Leny, where was anciently a chapel. 
 
 CALTON, a manufacturing district and for a time a 
 quoad sacra parish, in the parish of Barony, county of 
 Lanark ; included within the parliamentary boundary 
 of Glasgow, and comprising Old and New Calton. These 
 villages, formerly part of the barony of Barrowfield, 
 were, by royal charter in 1817, erected into a burgh of 
 barony, containing about fifty-four acres, of which 
 twelve are attached to Old and forty-two to New Cal- 
 ton. The houses are neatly built of brick, and roofed 
 with tiles, for the manufacture of which clay of good 
 quality abounds in the immediate vicinity ; and the 
 streets, especially those of the latter village, are regu- 
 larly formed. At the last census the number of in- 
 habitants in Calton and Mill-End was 25,060. A hand- 
 some mechanics' institution has been erected, and there 
 are branches, in good buildings, of the Western Bank 
 of Scotland and the City of Glasgow Bank. The popu- 
 lation is chiefly employed in the cotton manufacture, 
 and in hand-loom weaving, which are carried on to a 
 very considerable extent ; the manufacture of thread 
 affords employment to several hundreds of men and 
 women, and there are numerous shops for the supply 
 of the inhabitants with groceries and other articles of 
 merchandise. The government of the burgh is vested in 
 a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and eleven council- 
 lors, one of whom acts as dean of guild ; they are chosen 
 by the burgesses, and are all elected annually, with the 
 exception of the elder bailie, who holds office for two 
 years. The burgesses have no exclusive privileges, nor 
 can any inhabitant be compelled to be a burgess ; those 
 who choose to become burgesses pay a fee of £1. 2. on 
 admission. There are 16S burgesses on the roll, of 
 whom twenty-seven are resident, and qualified in respect 
 of property, and five as tenants of £15 dwelling-houses, 
 so that the council of fifteen is chosen out of a body of 
 178 
 
 thirty-two persons only. Application, however, has been 
 made by the authorities to parliament, for the passing 
 of an act to alter the charter, and enlarge the bounds of 
 the burgh. The magistrates and council have the privi- 
 lege of a weekly market, which is held on Saturday, 
 and of which they receive the tolls and customs. Their 
 jurisdiction extends, in civil cases, over the territory of 
 the burgh, and in criminal cases over the whole of the 
 police district ; they hold a court for the recovery of 
 debts not exceeding 40s., and a police court, in which a 
 town-clerk, appointed by the superior of the burgh, 
 acts as assessor. The late quoad sacra parish of Middle 
 Calton, containing 7185 inhabitants, and comprised 
 within the presbytery of Glasgow, and synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr, was formed in 1834. The church, built in 
 1793, at an expense of £1495, and since repaired and 
 enlarged, is a neat structure, and contains 1400 sittings ; 
 the minister is appointed by the managers and sub- 
 scribers, and his stipend is £250. Calton also com- 
 prised the late quoad sacra parishes of St. Luke's and 
 Greenhead. There are places of worship for members 
 of the Free Church, the United Presbyterian synod, and 
 Wesleyans. A burgh school, in which are 140 children, 
 is taught by a master who has a schoolroom rent-free, 
 and a salary of £10 in addition to the fees ; and there 
 are numerous other schools, with a savings' bank under 
 the patronage of the magistrates. 
 
 CAMBUS, a village, in the parish of Alloa, county 
 of Cl.^ckmannan, 2 miles (W.) from Alloa ; containing 
 287 inhabitants. This village, which is pleasantly situ- 
 ated on the west bank of the river Devon, is inhabited 
 chiefly by persons who are employed in an extensive 
 distillery. A small fishery for salmon, in the Devon, is 
 carried on with considerable success ; it is the property 
 of Lord Abercroraby, under whom it is held on lease, at 
 £20 per annum. Michael Stirling, who lived in the 
 village, invented the threshing-mill, upon which many 
 improvements have been subsequently made. 
 
 CAMBUS, OLD.— See Cockburnspath. 
 
 CAMBUSBARRON, a village, in the parish of St. 
 Ninian's, county of Stirling, 1^ mile (S. W.) from 
 Stirling ; containing 6*6 inhabitants, who are chiefly 
 engaged in wool-spinning, and in the manufacture of 
 tartans and shawls. A small school here has an endow- 
 ment of £10 per annum, arising from a bequest. 
 
 CAMBUSKENNETH, or ABBEY, a village, in the 
 parish of Stirling and county of Clackmannan, 
 1 mile (E.) from the town of Stirling ; containing 227 
 inhabitants. This place, which is situated on a peninsula 
 formed by the winding of the river Forth, takes its 
 name, signifying "the field of Kenneth", from some 
 ancient event not distinctly recorded, in which one of 
 the Scottish kings of that name is supposed to have 
 been concerned. A monastery for canons regular of 
 the order of St. Augustine was founded herein 114", 
 by David L, who richly endowed it with lands in vari- 
 ous parts of the kingdom ; and the endowment was 
 augmented by many of his successors. This establish- 
 ment, the abbots of which were frequently styled abbots 
 of Stirling, continued to increase in importance ; it was 
 the place of interment of James IIL and his queen, and 
 the scene of many transactions connected WMth Scottish 
 history. The buildings were extensive and magnificent, 
 but soon after the Reformation they were demolished 
 by the lords of the congregation, who had taken posses-
 
 CAMS 
 
 C A M B 
 
 sion of Stirling; and of the once splendid structure 
 only one solitary tower is remaining. The church was 
 dedicated to St. Mary, from which circumstance the 
 street leading to it from the town of Stirling was called 
 St. Mary's Wynd. On the dissolution of the monastery, 
 the lands were granted to the Earl of Mar, with whose 
 descendants they remained till the year 1737, when they 
 were purchased by the corporation of Stirling on behalf 
 of Cowan's hospital. The village is chiefly inhabited by 
 persons employed in agriculture, and in the woollen 
 manufactures in the vicinity ; there is a ferry here over 
 the river Forth ; and a school is supported. 
 
 CAMBUSLANG, a parish, in the Middle ward of 
 the county of Lanark, 4§ miles (S. by E.) from Glas- 
 gow ; including the villages of Bushyhill, Chapelton, 
 East and West Cotes, Cullochburn, Howieshill, Kirkhill, 
 Lightburn, Sauchiebog, Silverbanks, andVicarland ; and 
 containing 302'2 inhabitants. This place is supposed to 
 have derived its name from its situation on the banks 
 of the Clyde, which here takes a circuitous course, and 
 forms the northern boundary of the parish. The barony 
 in which the greater portion is included, and which was 
 anciently called Drumsargart. belonged in the reign of 
 Alexander II. to Walter Olifard, justiciary of Lothian, 
 and subsequently became the property of the Morays 
 of Bothwell. It afterwards passed into the possession 
 of the Earl of Douglas, who had married the daughter 
 of Sir Thomas Moray, and remained in that family till 
 1452, when the property was transferred to James, Lord 
 Hamilton, in the possession of whose descendants it 
 still continues. Its name was changed in the seven- 
 teenth century from Drumsargart to Cambuslang. the 
 name of the parish. There are no other remains of the 
 ancient castle of Drumsargart than the mere site, from 
 which it is supposed to have derived its name, signi- 
 ficant of its situation on a circular mount at the extre- 
 mity of a long ridge of ground about thirty feet above 
 the surrounding plain. This plain, from its extent and 
 undulating surface, has been said to bear a striking re- 
 semblance to the Field of Waterloo. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the east by the river 
 Calder, which is a tributary of the Clyde ; and comprises 
 an area of 3507 acres, all arable and pasture land, with 
 the exception of about 200 in plantations, roads, and 
 waste. Its surface, though generally level, is varied 
 with rising grounds and ridges, the principal of which 
 are Turnlaw and Dechmont, in the south-west. The 
 latter, having an elevation of 600 feet above the level of 
 the sea, commands an extensive prospect, comprehend- 
 ing in the distance the Tweeddale and Pentland hills, 
 Ben-Lomond, and several of the hills of Cowal and 
 Breadalbane. The adjacent scenery is beautifully pic- 
 turesque, embracing the windings of the Clyde in its 
 course from Lanark to Dumbarton, with its richly-wooded 
 banks interspersed with villages and gentlemen's .seats, 
 the plantations of Hamilton, the romantic ruins of 
 Bothwell Castle, and the cathedral and city of Glasgow, 
 which are here seen with peculiar and striking effect. 
 Of the rivers, the Clyde is about 2.'>0 feet in breadth ; 
 and the Calder, the banks of which are ornamented 
 with pleasing villas, and finely wooded, is about forty 
 feet wide. 
 
 The soil is generally good, and, in the low lands near 
 the Clyde, extremely rich and fertile. The principal 
 crops are oats and wheat, of which latter the culti- 
 179 
 
 vation has been for some time progressively increasing 
 under an improved system of agriculture ; peas, beans, 
 and potatoes are also raised in considerable quantities, 
 and a small proportion of barley. There are several 
 large dairy-farms, the produce of which is chiefly 
 butter, of excellent quality, sent to the Glasgow mar- 
 ket, where it finds a ready sale ; the cows are the 
 Ayrshire. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £11,555. The substratum is mainly argilla- 
 ceous freestone, limestone, ironstone, and coal, all of 
 which are wrought, affording employment to many of 
 the population. The freestone is of good quality, and 
 much esteemed for ornamental building ; and the lime- 
 stone, which is peculiarly compact, and susceptible of a 
 high polish, is wrought into mantel-pieces of great 
 beauty under the appellation of Cambuslang marble. 
 The ironstone is found in several places, but is worked 
 only to a very limited extent. The coal lies at various 
 depths, and in some few places rises nearly to the sur- 
 face ; the field in which it is found forms part of 
 the coal district of the Clyde, and the seams vary 
 from three to five feet in thickness : the mines in 
 this parish are the property of the Duke of Hamilton, 
 and are partly held on lease. The weaving of muslin for 
 the Glasgow manufacturers, formerly carried on to a 
 much greater extent, at present affords employment 
 to about 500 males and females. There are corn-mills 
 on the Clyde and Calder rivers. Great facility of inter- 
 course is afforded by the lines of the Caledonian railway 
 company. The principal seats are, Newton, a handsome 
 modern mansion ; Calder Grove, also lately erected ; 
 and Gilbertfield, an ancient turretcd edifice. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Hamilton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; patron, the 
 Duke of Hamilton: the minister's stipend is £281. 11. 
 11., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 per annum. 
 The church, erected in 1743, a plain building much 
 dilapidated, has been rebuilt on a larger scale, for a 
 congregation of 1000 persons ; it is a handsome struc- 
 ture in the Norman style, with a lofty spire. There 
 are places of worship for members of the Congrega- 
 tional Union and the United Presbyterian Church. The 
 parochial school affords education to nearly 100 pupils : 
 the salary of the master is £34, with £40 fees, and a 
 good house and garden. On the summit of Dechmont 
 Hill, the foundations of ancient buildings have been 
 discovered ; and within the last fifty or sixty years con- 
 siderable remains existed there, but they have been re- 
 moved for the sake of the materials, which have been 
 employed in repairing the roads, and for other pur- 
 poses. Among them were the remains of a circular 
 building about twenty- four feet in diameter, the site of 
 which is supposed to have been occupied anciently as 
 a signal station, and as a place of security in case of 
 irruption from an enemy. At Kirkburn was formerly 
 a chapel dedicated to the Virgin IMary, which appears 
 to have subsisted till the Reformation ; but the only 
 memorial preserved of the building is the name of 
 the land on which it stood, still called Chapelton. 
 Spittal Hill was the site of an hospital that has long 
 since disappeared. Dr. Claudius Buclianan, author of 
 Researches in India, was a native of the parish. 
 
 CAMBUSNETHAN, a parish, in the Middle ward 
 of the county of Lanark ; including the villages of 
 Bonkle, Stane, and Stewarton and Wishawton ; the whole 
 
 '2 A 2
 
 CAMS 
 
 C A M B 
 
 containing 5796 inhabitants : the church is 4^ miles 
 (N. w.) from Carluke. The name is derived from the 
 Gaelic word Camun, signifying a •' bay " or " curve ", ap- 
 plicable to the remarkable windings of the river Clyde ; 
 and from Nethan, the name of the celebrated saint 
 whom Archbishop Us?her styles " religiosissimus et doc- 
 tissimus Nethciii ", and to whom the church was dedi- 
 cated. The history of the place is chiefly connected 
 with the families of Stewart, Sommerville, Hamilton, 
 and Lockhart, all of whom have been long located here 
 as large landed proprietors. The most remote occupa- 
 tion of the soil, however, of which we have any account, 
 was by a family of the name of Baird, to whom the 
 valuable barony of Cambusuethan belonged at a very 
 early period. This parish is about twelve miles long, 
 from east to west, and a little more than four miles 
 broad, containing '26,000 acres. The surface is tolerably 
 level in the western e.xti-emity, near the banks of the 
 Clyde, but gradually rises eastward to an elevation of 
 about I'JO feet, forming a tract about a mile in breadth, 
 consisting of a rich and fertile soil, which is well cul- 
 tivated, and celebrated for the number and quality of its 
 hares. Another acclivity succeeds this, rising to a height 
 of about 250 feet, the larger part of which is covered 
 with orchards ; and still further to the east, the lands 
 in many parts attain an elevation of 900 feet, and cora- 
 niaud some very extensive views of the surrounding 
 country. The castle of Edinburgh, Loudoun hill, Dura- 
 barton Castle, Ben-Lomond, and the hills of Argyllshire 
 may be distinctly seen from Knownowton ; and from 
 the church, the prospect embraces the cathedral of 
 Glasgow, with at least fifteen country churches. 
 
 Besides the Clyde, there are several streams running 
 through the parish and along its boundaries, the pecu- 
 liar character and flexures of which greatly improve its 
 interesting scenery. The South Colder, rising in Linlith- 
 gowshire, forms about nine miles of the boundary line 
 between this parish and Shotts ; and for some miles 
 before its approach to the Clyde, into which it falls, its 
 banks are steep, exhibiting specimens of highly orna- 
 mental scenery, and adorned with several beautiful 
 varieties of wood and garden. The Water of Auchter, 
 which rises in" the parish of Carluke, after flowing for 
 more than a mile on the boundary of that parish and 
 Carabusnethan, enters the latter, and passing for about 
 three miles in a meandering route, falls into the South 
 Calder at Bridgend. Of these rivers, the Clyde is said 
 to contain twelve different species of fish ; the chief is 
 salmon, which latterly has been abundant. 
 
 The prevailing soil is clayey, resting upon a stiff and 
 tenacious subsoil of till ; in the more elevated parts it 
 is much mixed with gravel and dark sand, and in the 
 vicinity of the Clyde the haughs are a moist alluvial 
 compost, yielding, when well cultivated, very fine crops. 
 About 10,000 acres are cultivated, or occasionally in 
 tillage; about 6000 are in woods, roads, quarries, &c. ; 
 160 acres in orchards, and a very considerable quantity 
 waste. Good grain of all kinds is raised, and fruit forms 
 a prominent article in the produce. Numerous improve- 
 ments have been made in agriculture within the last few 
 years, especially in draining, which is required to a large 
 extent on account of the wet clayey nature of the soil. 
 Thriving hedges and plantations have been raised in 
 many parts ; and dells and ravines, formerly the beds of 
 broom, furze, and heath, have been planted with larch, 
 180 
 
 or formed into productive orchards. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £32,016. The subter- 
 raneous productions are chiefly ironstone and coal, which 
 may be procured in very large quantities ; the district is 
 included in the great coal-field of Lanarkshire, and the 
 coal is extensively wrought. In the neighbourhood of 
 Headlecross, in the eastern part of the parish, and on 
 the grounds of Coltness and Allanton, black-band iron- 
 stone is found of superior quality ; and in various places 
 good sandstone is met with. In several directions, also, 
 plentiful supplies are obtained of excellent clay, which 
 is found in beds about ten feet in thickness, and used 
 for the manufacture of drain and roof tiles. The popu- 
 lation are extensively employed in manufactures. Large 
 iron-works have been built at Newmains by Thomas 
 Houldsworth, Esq., and two tile-works are in operation 
 upon the estate of "Wishaw, and one at Coltness. The 
 Shotts iron-works, on the borders of the parish, caused 
 an increase of population to the amount of about 2000, 
 one-third of whom reside at the village of Staue, and the 
 rest in Shotts ; and near Wishawton, in the western 
 quarter of the parish, a very extensive distillery has been 
 erected by Lord Belhaven. A road from Edinburgh to 
 Ayr traverses the parish ; and the Wishaw^ and Coltness 
 railway also intersects it, affording great facility of inter- 
 course : an act was passed in 1S49 authorizing the sale 
 of this railway to the Caledonian railway company. 
 
 Among the principal seats is Cambusnetlian House, an 
 elegant structure on the model of a priory, erected about 
 twenty or thirty years ago, upon the site of a mansion 
 which had been accidentally destroyed by fire. It stands 
 in a romantic situation, and the grounds have been much 
 improved within the last few years, especially the or- 
 chards. If'ishaw House, in the north-west corner of the 
 parish, upon the bank of the Calder, is an extensive 
 structure in the castellated style. The front is noble 
 and commanding, varied by a number of different-sized 
 and well-proportioned towers. The apartments are en- 
 riched with several portraits, among which are, one of 
 John, Lord Belhaven, who so zealously opposed the 
 Union ; and a very costly portrait by Vandyke, of Sir 
 James Balfour, Lord Lyon king-of-arms in the reign of 
 Charles I. The House of Coltness is an elegant and com- 
 modious building, between the dining-room and draw- 
 ing-room of which runs a gallery nearly 200 feet long, 
 hung round with ancient portraits of the family of 
 Stewart. It stands in the midst of very extensive and 
 well laid-out grounds. Allanton House is a majestic 
 structure, wrought up, by various additions and improve- 
 ments, from the old castle of Allanton. It is ornamented 
 with an artificial lake of large dimensions, containing 
 several islands so covered with wood that, from no part 
 of the lake, is its extent capable of being seen. Muirliouse 
 is also an old structure, in a commanding situation. 
 
 The monks of Kelso anciently held the tithes and 
 other ecclesiastical rights of Cambusuethan, by grant in 
 the twelfth century from William Finemund, lord of the 
 manor. In the following century the church was trans- 
 ferred to the bishops of Glasgow, with whom it con- 
 tinued till the Reformation. The parish is now in the 
 presbytery of Hamilton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr j 
 patron, Robert Lockhart, Esq., of Castlehill : the stipend 
 is about £2*8, with a manse, built in 1827, and a glebe 
 of four acres, planted by the late incumbent with the 
 choicest kinds of fruit-trees. The old church, part of
 
 CAME 
 
 C A M L 
 
 which is still standing, was situated at the southern 
 verge of the parish, on a very romantic spot, close to 
 the river Clyde : the date of its erection is unknown. In 
 16-10 this was abandoned as a place of worship, and a 
 very mean structure was erected about three miles 
 further up the parish, which remained unslated for 
 seven years, and which never was a commodious or com- 
 fortable place of worship. In 1837 that church was 
 condemned, and another, with a handsome tower, after- 
 wards erected close beside it ; but owing to the dissen- 
 sions of the heritors, this new edifice has not been 
 completed or opened for public worship. There are 
 places of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod 
 and Reformed Presbyterians ; also a parochial school, at 
 which all the usual branches of education are taught, the 
 master receiving the ma.vimum salary, and about £^0 
 fees. Two subscription libraries are supported, the books 
 in which are chiefly historical and religious. 
 
 CAMELON, a village, in the parish of Falkirk, 
 county of Stirling, li mile (W.) from Falkirk ; con- 
 taining 1340 inhabitants. This village, which is situ- 
 ated on the turnpike-road to Glasgow, is sometimes 
 called New Camelon, in contradistinction to the ancient 
 city of the same name, supposed to have been a Roman 
 station, and at one time a very considerable sea-port 
 town. The probability of this supposition is corrobo- 
 rated by numerous vestiges of Roman antiquity that may 
 still be traced on the line of the Roman road leading 
 from the Wall of Antonine, and by the discovery of 
 foundations of buildings, and the traces of various streets 
 which not many years since were distinctly apparent. 
 There is also sufiicient evidence that the river Carron 
 was formerly navigable for vessels far above the site of 
 the ancient city, where, in I/O*, several antique boats 
 and the fragment of an anchor were found embedded iu 
 the soil ; and the name of the adjacent district called the 
 Carse, implying lands reclaimed from the sea, and their 
 slight elevation above the level of the Firth of Forth, by 
 which, within the last fifty or si.\ty years, they have been 
 inundated, afford strong confirmation of the truth of that 
 opinion. The inhabitants are partly employed in the 
 Carron iron-works, and in the ironstone and coal mines 
 connected with those works ; also in the manufacture of 
 nails, which was originally introduced here by Mr. Cadell 
 of Carron Park, and for v.hich there are now two esta- 
 blishments, affording occupation to 250 persons. Two 
 distilleries are carried on, one of them situated upon the 
 north, and the other upon the south, bank of the Forth 
 and Clyde canal. This line of navigation, and also the 
 Union canal, are on the south side of the village : Port- 
 Downie is at its western extremity. The Edinburgh and 
 Glasgow railway passes about a quarter of a mile to the 
 south, where it has a station. A handsonie church has 
 been built by sul)scription, near the western extremity of 
 the village, on ground given by Mr. Forbes of Callendar, 
 who also contributed largely towards the e.\|)ense of its 
 erection; it was opened on the '23rd of August, 1840, 
 and contains 660 sittings. Camelon is a quoad sacra 
 parish. A school, for wliich an appropriate Ijuilding has 
 been erected, is also supported, by subscription. 
 
 CAMERON, a parish, in the district of St. An- 
 drew's, county of Fifi:, 4 miles (S. S. W.) from St. An- 
 drew's ; containing 116* inhabitants. This place was 
 formerly included in the parish of St. Andrew's, and ap- 
 pears to have derived its name from the lands on part 
 181 
 
 of which the church was erected on its separation, by 
 act of parliament, in 164.5. The parisli is nearly six 
 miles in length from east to west, and about four miles 
 in breadth, comprising 9000 acres, of which 5904 are 
 arable, 2'2'26 meadow and pasture, 600 woodland and 
 plantations, and '2*0 rough pasture and waste. Its sur- 
 face rises in gentle undulations, from north to south, but 
 not to any considerable height ; and an eminence to the 
 north-west, called Drumcarro Craig, is the only hill. The 
 general scenery is agreeably diversified with wood and 
 water. Between the rising grounds are small intervals 
 of level land, in which flow some pleasing streams ; and 
 the various plantations, consisting chiefly of larch, spruce, 
 and Scotch firs, add greatly to the appearance of the dis- 
 trict. In some places the soil is clay ; in others, a rich 
 black loam, varying in depth from two inches to more 
 than two feet ; and in other parts of the parish, light 
 and dry, resting upon gravel and whinstone rock. The 
 chief crops are wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips, 
 with the usual green crops ; the system of agriculture is 
 in a highly improved state, and the lands have been well 
 drained and inclosed. Considerable attention is paid to 
 the rearing of live stock ; the cattle are principally of 
 the Old Fifeshire breed, which has lately been introduced, 
 and is found to be better adapted than the Teeswater, 
 formerly prevalent. The annual value of real property 
 iu the parish is £8219. The substrata are mostly whin- 
 stone, trap, freestone, limestone, and coal. The lime- 
 stone is quarried on the lands of Radernie and Winthank, 
 and from the former place a tramroad has been con- 
 structed for conveying the limestone to the kilns. Coal 
 of good quality is wrought on the lands of Drumcarro ; 
 the whinstone is quarried for repairing the roads, and at 
 Hazzleden is a quarry of freestone. Mount Melville, 
 the only seat, is a handsome mansion with a well-planted 
 demesne. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery 
 of St. Andrew's, synod of Fife, and in the patronage of 
 the Crown ; the minister's stipend is £199- 12. 8., with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 per annum. The 
 church, situated nearly in the centre of the parish, was 
 built in 1808, and is adapted for 600 persons. There is 
 a place of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod. 
 The parochial school is under good regulations ; the mas- 
 ter has a salary of £34, with £12. 10. fees, and a house 
 and garden. 
 
 CAMLACHIE, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in- 
 cluding the village of Parkhead, in the parish of Barony, 
 suburbs of the city of Glasgow, county of Lanark; 
 containing 3654 inhabitants, of whom 2152 are in the 
 village of Camlachie, l|mile (E.) from Ghisgow. Cam- 
 lachie parish comprised, besides the two villages, a rural 
 district containing a few acres of well-cultivated land. 
 On the bank of the river Clyde are the handsome man- 
 sions of Belvidere and Westthorn, both of modern erec- 
 tion, and commanding fine prospects. The village is iu 
 general indifferently built, the houses being mostly in the 
 old style, with low ceilings and small windows. The art 
 of letter-founding was introduced, and brought to great 
 perfection, by Mr. Alexander Wilson, afterwards professor 
 of astronomy in the university of (Glasgow, who, remov- 
 ing from St. Andrew's to this place, established a foundry 
 here, which was subsequently transferred to Glasgow. 
 The population are almost exclusively employed in hand- 
 loom weaving, and tiie manufacture of muslins ; and in 
 the immediate vicinity are several coal-mines, of which,
 
 CAMP 
 
 CAMP 
 
 Seal and Anns. 
 
 however, one only is in operation, for the supply of the 
 district. In the village of Parkhead is a post-office, 
 under that of Glasgow. The parish was formed in 1838 ; 
 the ch\irch is a neat structure, erected by the Church- 
 Building Society of Glasgow, who now let it to a Free 
 Church congregation. 
 
 CAMPBELLTOWN, a 
 burgh and parish, in the dis- 
 trict of Cantyre, county of 
 Argyll : the parish con- 
 taining, with the villages of 
 Dalintober and Drumlemble, 
 9634 inhabitants, of whom 
 .5028 are in the burgh, 60 
 miles (W. S. W.) from Glas- 
 gow. The name of this place 
 was once Dalruadhain, from 
 its being the seat of the an- 
 cient Celtic Scots ; and sub- 
 sequently Lochhead, from its situation at the inland ex- 
 tremit}' of the loch of Kilkerran. Prior to the com- 
 mencement of the eighteenth century, it was merely an 
 inconsiderable fishing-village ; it was erected into a royal 
 burgh through the interest of the Duke of Argyll, in 
 1700, and then assumed its present name in compliment 
 to the family of its patron. The town, which since that 
 period has greatly increased in extent and importance, 
 is beautifully situated on the southern shore of the 
 above-mentioned loch or inlet, now called Campbelltown 
 bay, along which it extends in the form of a crescent. 
 It comprises several spacious and well-formed streets, 
 diverging to the east and west from the central or main 
 street, which leads from the old quay to the Castle hill, 
 formerly the seat of the ancient Lords of the Isles, and 
 now the site of the church. Parallel with these, to the 
 south, are various streets, of which Argyll-street, leading 
 to the grounds and mansion of the duke, is intersected 
 at right angles by several others, one of which extends 
 from the new pier to the Gaelic church. The streets 
 are well paved, and lighted with gas ; and the inhabit- 
 ants are supplied, though scantily, with excellent water, 
 conveyed from a spring in the neighbourhood at the ex- 
 pense of the burgh. There are two circulating libraries, 
 furnished with journals and periodical publications. The 
 immediate environs abound with handsome seats and 
 villas, the residences of numerous respectable families, 
 ranged along the north and south shores of the bay, 
 which is nearly two miles in length, and about one mile 
 in breadth, and is enlivened with gentlemen's pleasure- 
 boats, and by the frequent arrival and departure of 
 steamers navigating the Clyde. 
 
 The TRADE of the town arises chiefly from its distil- 
 leries and its fisheries, which are carried on to a very 
 great extent. There are not less than twenty-five dis- 
 tilleries, which together, in 1842, consumed 303,711 
 bushels of barley, and 79,508 bushels of bear ; producing 
 747,502 gallons of whisky, of which 12,978 gallons were 
 shipped for England, 3413 to Ireland, 4346 to foreign 
 parts, and the remainder, 58,760 gallons, principally to 
 Glasgow. In the immediate neighbourhood is a mill, 
 lately built, for the manufacture of farina from potatoes. 
 The trade of the port consists mainly in the exportation 
 of whisky, malt, black-cattle, sheep, horses, beans, po- 
 tatoes, turnips, and other agricultural produce, with 
 butter, cheese, and fish ; and in the importation of 
 182 
 
 barley, yeast, coal, timber, iron, and general merchan- 
 dise. The fish taken off the coast are of the usual va- 
 riety of white fish, and till lately were caught by single 
 lines, in large numbers ; but the quantity has been much 
 increased by the introduction of lines of great length, 
 floated on the surface of the water by buoys, and to 
 which are appended numerous single lines, of length 
 sufficient to reach the depth at which the fish are most 
 generally found. About 500 families are employed in 
 the fishery : cod, haddock, and ling are taken in abun- 
 dance, and are partly sent in a fresh state to Glasgow, 
 whence they are conveyed to the neighbouring towns ; 
 and partly dried for exportation to distant markets. The 
 herring-fishery is extensively carried on during the 
 months of June, July, and August; and in 1843 about 
 150 boats, of four men each, were engaged in this fishery 
 in the sound of Kilbrandon. 
 
 The number of vessels registered as belonging to the 
 port is thirty-three, chiefly sloops and schooners in the 
 coasting-trade ; this is exclusive of the number of fish- 
 ing-boats, which is very considerable, and there is also 
 a vessel of ,t15 tons employed in the timber-trade with 
 Canada. In 1842, 646 vessels entered inwards, and 365 
 cleared outwards, two of which were in the foreign 
 trade. The custom-house department is under the 
 superintendence of a collector, comptroller, and two 
 tide-waiters ; and the excise-office has a collector, two 
 clerks, three supervisors, and fifty officers. The har- 
 bour is sheltered on the north and south by lofty hills, 
 and on the south-east by the isle of Devar, with which 
 it is joined on the south side by a bar of sand nearly 
 half a mile in length, visible at low water, and which, 
 by intercepting the violence of the waves, renders the 
 anchorage peculiarly safe. The entrance is from the 
 north, by a narrow channel of great depth ; and the 
 harbour, which generally contains from three to fifteen 
 fathoms water, has two boldly projecting piers : the 
 eastern of these, called the new pier, is of recent forma- 
 tion. The quays are well adapted for the loading and 
 unloading of vessels, and every requisite accommodation 
 has been provided for facilitating the trade of the port. 
 In 1846 an act was passed for improving the harbour; 
 for paving, lighting, and watching the to^vn, supplying 
 it with water, and better levying the dues and customs. 
 The market, held weekly on Thursday, is amply supplied 
 with grain and other agricultural produce ; and fairs 
 are held for cattle, horses, and various kinds of mer- 
 chandise, at Whitsuntide, Lammas, Michaelmas, and 
 Candlemas. In the market-place, which is in the centre 
 of the main street, is an ancient cross, richly sculptured 
 with foliage, and supposed to have been brought from 
 lona. 
 
 By a charter of William III., the town, which was 
 previously a burgh of barony, was erected into a royal 
 BURGH, and the government vested in a provost, two 
 bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and twelve conn- 
 cillors, who are now elected under the provisions of the 
 Municipal Reform act. The burgesses have no privi- 
 leges beyond the freedom of carrying on trade within 
 the burgh ; the fees of admission are, to a stranger, as 
 a merchant burgess, £3. 3., and as a craftsman, £2. 2., 
 and to the sons, sons-in-law, or apprentices of burgesses, 
 one-half of those sums. The magistrates hold courts 
 for civil matters to any amount ; in criminal cases their 
 jurisdiction is confined to misdemeanors and offences
 
 CAMP 
 
 CAMP 
 
 against the police, in determining which they are assisted 
 by the town-clerk, who acts as their assessor. The town- 
 liouse, situated in the central part of the town, is a neat 
 building with a handsome spire, and contains two coun- 
 cil-chambers for the transaction of public business, and 
 a spacious hall in which the courts are held. Above 
 these is the prison for debtors, consisting of two apart- 
 ments ; and on the ground-floor are three cells for 
 criminals, all badly ventilated and lighted, and two of 
 which are damp. Campbelltown is associated with Ayr, 
 Irvine, Inverary, and Oban, in returning a member to 
 the imperial parliament. Its parliamentary boundaries 
 extend beyond those of the royalty of the burgh, in- 
 cluding the populous villages of DaUntober and Dala- 
 ruin. The number of householders of the rent of £10 
 and upwards, within the royalty, is 165, of whom 
 seventy-four are burgesses ; and beyond the royalty, but 
 within the parliamentary boundary, forty. 
 
 The PARISH forms a portion of the peninsula of Can- 
 tyre, and includes the ancient parishes of Kilkivan, Kil- 
 michael, and Kilchousland, which were united to the 
 ancient parish about the time of the Reformation. It 
 is bounded on the east by the sound of Kilbrandon, and 
 on the west by the Atlantic Ocean, and is about thirteen 
 miles in length and from six to ten in breadth, com- 
 prising an area of eighty-seven and a half square miles. 
 Two-thirds of the land are arable, and the remainder 
 pasture, heath, and waste. The surface is diversified 
 with hills, rising both from the north and south shores 
 of the bay of Campbelltown, and varying from 800 to 
 1000 feet in height. Of these the highest is Bengaillin, 
 about a mile from the town, commanding an extensive 
 prospect, embracing, to the north-west, the islands of 
 Isla, Jura, and Gigha ; to the north-east, the isles of 
 Arran and Bute, and the district of Cowal, with the 
 Firth of Clyde ; to the south, the lowlands as far as 
 Loch Ryan, with Ailsa Craig ; and to the south-west, 
 the coast of Ireland, with the isle of Rathlin. Between 
 the town and the bay of Machrihanish, which indents 
 the western shore, is a tract of level ground, about four 
 miles in length and nearly three in breadth, called the 
 Laggan of Cantyre, havmg an elevation of nearly forty 
 feet above the sea, and the soil of which has the ap- 
 pearance of being alluvial. The soil of the parish is 
 extremely various, but in many parts of considerable 
 fertility ; the principal crops are bear, oats, barley, pota- 
 toes, which are raised in large quantities, and beans. 
 The system of agriculture is improved, and much of the 
 waste land has been drained. The hills, some of which 
 are cultivated on the acclivities, afford pasturage for 
 black-cattle and sheep. The rocks are chiefly mica- 
 slate, ironstone, porphyry, sandstone, limestone, grey- 
 wacke, and trap ; some beautiful varieties of green, 
 brown, and other porphyry occur on the island of 
 Devar. Coal of inferior quality is found within three 
 miles of the town, and there are several mines in opera- 
 tion (formerly wrought by a company) for the supply 
 of the town, to which the coal is conveyed by a canal. 
 Several plantations, chiefly of ash, elm, plane, larch, and 
 Scotch and spruce firs, are in a very thriving state. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Cantyre, of which Camp- 
 belltown is the seat, and the synod of Argyll. There 
 are two ministers, one of whom officiates in the Gaelic, 
 and the other in the English language ; patron, the 
 183 
 
 Duke of Argyll. The minister of the first charge, which 
 is the Gaelic, has a stipend of £146. 15. 10., whereof 
 about one-third is paid from the exchequer ; with a 
 manse, and three glebes, valued at £92 per annum : 
 the minister of the second charge has a stipend of the 
 same amount, with a glebe valued at £'26. 1 0. per an- 
 num. The GaeUc church, which had I)een for some 
 time in a dilapidated condition, was rebuilt in 1803, 
 and contains 'iOOO sittings ; the English church, which 
 occupies the site of the ancient castle of the Lords of 
 the Isles, was built in 1*80, and contains 1200 sittings. 
 There are places of worship for members of the Free 
 Church, the United Presbyterian Synod, Independents, 
 and Roman Catholics. The parochial school is consoli- 
 dated with that of the burgh, and the master, who is 
 appointed by the town-council subject to the approval 
 of the presbytery, has a salary of £34. 4. 4., paid by the 
 heritors and the burgh, together with a house adapted 
 for the reception of boarders, and an excellent garden ; 
 his fees average about £150 per annum, out of which 
 he has to pay an assistant. Miss Campbell, of Govan 
 Bank, built two schools at Dalintober, at an expense of 
 £1150 ; and for their endowment she bequeathed to the 
 Kirk Session the sum of £4600. The same lady left 
 £600 to the female school of industry, £300 towards the 
 support of a parochial missionary, £300 to the Sabbath 
 schools, £600 to the Female Benevolent Society, and 
 £500 to the poor of the parish. 
 
 CAMPBELTON, a village, partly in the parish of 
 Pettie, but chiefly in the parish of Ardersier, county 
 of Inverness, 6 miles (W.) from Nairn, and 10 (N. E.) 
 from Inverness ; containing, with the garrison of Fort 
 George, 1200 inhabitants, of whom 944 are in the vil- 
 lage. This place, which is indebted for its origin to the 
 establishment of the garrison, takes its name from the 
 Campbells, Earls Cawdor, upon whose lands it is built, 
 on the eastern shore of a bay in the Moray Firth, re- 
 markable for its picturesque beauty, and frequented as 
 a bathing quarter. The houses are neat, and there are 
 numerous well-stored shops, containing wares and mer- 
 chandise of all kinds for the supply of the garrison ; a 
 subscription library has been established, and the village 
 contains several good inns. From the base of a hill 
 called Cromal or Crombal, which flanks the village on 
 the east, there issues in a continued jet a strongly cha- 
 lybeate spring, having a high character as a tonic, and 
 which is resorted to by invalids : the summit of the hill 
 commands a very extensive view, embracing parts of 
 seven or eight counties. Campbelton proper, or that part 
 of the village in Ardersier, contains 716 inhabitants; 
 the back street of the village, which is in the parish of 
 Pettie, contains 228, making in all 944, exclusive of the 
 garrison of Fort George. Many of the inhabitants are 
 employed in the herring-fishery, which is carried on 
 with spirit and success ; not less than sixteen boats, of 
 twelve tons' burthen, sail to the fishing-stations of 
 Helmsdale and Burgh-Head, each boat taking during 
 the season about 200 barrels, valued at thirteen shillings 
 each. The fishermen of Campbelton are also employed 
 in the white-fishery off the coast, the fish usually taken 
 being haddock, cod, skate, whiting, flounders, and occa- 
 sionally turbot, halibut, and soles ; the produce, after 
 supplying the parish, is sent to Inverness, for which 
 purpose, during the summer, there are lightly-built 
 and fast-sailiug vessels. A small coasting-trade is also
 
 CAMP 
 
 CAMP 
 
 carried on, in which three vessels of 100 tons, belonging 
 to a family in the village, are employed, chiefly in the 
 trade with Sunderland. The post-office has a regular 
 delivery; and facility of communication is afforded by 
 the great road from Inverness to Aberdeen, and the 
 military road from Fort George to Perth, which pass 
 through the village ; and by a ferry from Fort George 
 to Chanonry Point, in the county of Ross. A court for 
 the recovery of small debts is held every month ; and 
 there is a fair, called the Lammas Market, annvially on 
 the 12th of August, for lambs, sheep, milch cows, a few 
 horses, cheese, and various wares, and for the hiring of 
 servants. 
 
 Fort George, in the parish of Ardersier, was erected 
 soon after the rebellion in the j'ear 1745, with a view 
 to keep the Highlanders in subjection, being founded in 
 I74S under the direction of General Wade, and com- 
 pleted at a cost of more than £160,000. It is situated 
 on the point of Ardersier, which projects far into the 
 Firth, and commands the entrance of that channel. 
 The buildings, which occupy an area of fifteen acres, 
 form an irregular polygon, defended by six bastions, 
 each named after some distinguished general of the time, 
 and mounting, respectively, IS twenty-four pounders, 
 '25 eighteen, 11 twelve, and 4 six pounders. On three 
 sides, the ramparts rise almost from the sea, which at 
 any time may be let into the ditch ; and on the land 
 side, the fortress is defended by a broad ditch, a covered 
 way and glacis, two lunettes, and a raveline mounting 
 S twelve-pounders. The north and south curtains are 
 bomb-proof, and contain each twenty-seven apartments, 
 fifty-two feet in length and twelve feet wide ; the grand 
 magazine, which is also bomb-proof, will hold 247'2 bar- 
 rels of gunpowder, and at the eastern extremity are two 
 smaller magazines, containing ammunition for imme- 
 diate use. The barracks, which are towards the land 
 point, comprise apartments for a governor, lieutenant- 
 governor, fort-major, chaplain, eight field-officers, twenty- 
 two captains, fifty-six subalterns, and 2090 noncommis- 
 sioned officers and privates. There are also a chapel, 
 brewhouse, bakehouse, and an inn, within the walls. 
 The fortress is now garrisoned generally by depots of fo- 
 reign regiments, and at present contains only about 256 
 inhabitants. 
 
 CAMPMUIR, a hamlet, in the parish of Kettins, 
 county of Forfar ; containing 45 inhabitants. 
 
 CAMPSIE, a parish, in the county of Stirling, 
 3^ miles (E.) from Strathblane ; containing, with the 
 villages of Birdstone, Haugh-head, Lennoxtown, Milton, 
 Torrance, and the Clachan, 6402 inhabitants. This 
 parish, previously to the year 1649, was much larger 
 than at present ; and on account of its isolated situa- 
 tion, arising from its natural boundaries, it was distin- 
 guished by many peculiarities and singular customs. 
 At the period named, its southern extremity was erected 
 into a new parish called Baldernock, and its eastern 
 extremity united to Kilsyth. It now extends in length 
 about seven miles, and six miles in breadth, comprising 
 an area of 17,000 acres, of which about 7550 are hills, 
 7550 arable, 500 wood and plantations, and the remain- 
 der lakes, &c. The surface consists of two ranges of 
 hills, and the intermediate valley, running nearly from 
 east to west. The highest eminences are those forming 
 the northern boundary, called Campsie fells, rising at 
 their greatest elevation 1500 feet above the sea, and 
 184 
 
 intersected with numerous glens of exquisite beauty, 
 exhibiting a profusion of romantic scenery on their 
 rocky sides. In the glen called Kirktoun glen artificial 
 terraces have been cut, shrouded with ferns, lichens, 
 and all kinds of wild flowers ; and numbers of persons 
 resort to it in fine weather, on account of its attractive 
 scenery, and to witness the variety and grandeur of the 
 prospect from the neighbouring heights. The southern 
 range, called the Brae, is a continuation of the braes of 
 Kilpatrick, and rises about 700 feet. The valley is 
 covered throughout with a succession of undulations, 
 reaching to the precipitous sides of the northern fells, 
 whence several burns pour down, three of which, uniting 
 their streams, form the river Glassert, which, after tra- 
 versing a considerable extent of ground in the parish, 
 falls into the Kelvin near Kirkintilloch. 
 
 Near the base of the fells, which are clothed to their 
 summit with rich verdant pasture, the soil is chiefly a 
 light clayey earth, and the subsoil till)', and exceedingly 
 tenacious ; the hillocks and undulations in the strath 
 are frequently a light earth, resting on sand and gravel, 
 and in several places loamy. The southern brae is all 
 under tillage, with the exception of about 500 acres of 
 heath, and 250 of wood, and has a clayey soil on its 
 side towards the Kelvin, which is succeeded by lower 
 grounds of a sandy, gravelly, alluvial, and mossy cha- 
 racter, reaching to the neighbourhood of the river. On 
 account of the proximity of the parish to Glasgow, dairy 
 produce forms a leading object ; other branches of hus- 
 bandry, however, share much attention, and all kinds of 
 grain, pulse, and green crops are raised, under the best 
 system of management, and of excellent quality. The 
 Ayrshire breed of cows, without any admixture, is kept 
 for the dairy ; the cattle grazed on the hills are mostly 
 West Highlanders, and the sheep the black-faced breed. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £18,140. The mineral contents of the district are ex- 
 tensive and valuable, consisting of most of the varieties 
 of the trap rocks, and coal, with the layers of which 
 latter, beds of freestone, aluminous clay-slate, ironstone 
 of the argillaceous kind, and limestone, are found alter- 
 nating. About 35,000 tons of coal, and large quantities 
 of lime, are every year produced. Alum is obtained 
 from a schist found in the coal strata, and ironstone has 
 been partially wrought lately, and is abundant. The 
 plantations, comprising larch, Scotch fir, spruce, syca- 
 more, oak, and ash, have been much increased since the 
 close of the last century, especially in the vicinity of 
 Woodhead. In the same neighbourhood stands Lennox 
 Castle, on the acclivity of the south brae, 500 feet above 
 the level of the strath, and commanding extensive views. 
 This splendid mansion was finished in 1841, in the Nor- 
 man style ; and nearly opposite is situated the mansion 
 of Craigbarnet, and a little eastward that of Balancleroch ; 
 besides which, the parish contains those of Kincaid, An- 
 termony, Glorat House, and Auchinreocb. 
 
 The inhabitants are partly employed in weaving, and 
 in mills for cotton-printing, and bleachfields, the opera- 
 tions of which have been greatly extended on account 
 of the large supply of coal and of water. At Lennox- 
 mill, employing 700 persons, every description of cotton 
 fabrics is printed, from the coarsest to the finest, and 
 about 250,000 pieces are every year finished, partly for 
 home use, and partly for exportation. The other esta- 
 blishments are, Clachan bleachfield, commenced in 1819, 
 
 I
 
 C A N I 
 
 C ANI 
 
 for preparing various kinds of muslins for exportation ; 
 Kincaid, established in 1785, for bleaching aud printing 
 cottons ; Lillyburn, commenced in 183 1, for the printing 
 of linen and calico shawls and handkerchiefs ; and 
 Glenniill, begun in January 1S31, chiefly for bleaching 
 book-muslins. There are also works for the manufac- 
 ture of alum, copperas, prussiate of potash, Prussian 
 blue, &c. A turnpike-road from Strathblane to Kilsyth 
 passes through the parish from east to west, and an- 
 other crosses this, and runs over the fells, from Glasgow 
 to Fintry and Kippen ; the Glasgow road, also, to Stir- 
 ling, by Kilsyth, passes the south-east corner, and the 
 Forth and Clyde canal on the southern extremity. 
 Great facility of intercourse is afforded by the Campsie 
 branch of the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Glasgow, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the pa- 
 tronage of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is about 
 £285, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £18 per an- 
 num. The church formerly stood at the Clachan, but 
 the present edifice was built in 1829, on a far more con- 
 venient spot, at Lennoxtown ; it is a handsome structure, 
 capable of accommodating 1550 persons, and cost nearly 
 £8000. There is a place of worship for the United 
 Presbyterian Synod. The parochial school affords in- 
 struction in all the ordinary branches of education ; the 
 master has a salary of £30, with £18 fees, and the in- 
 terest of £"2/0 left by Robert Blair, Esq., of Glasgow. 
 Two other parochial schools are supported by the heri- 
 tors, at Craighead and Torrance, the master of the former 
 of which, in addition to the salary of £41. 5. 11., re- 
 ceives £20 per annum from Messrs. Inglis, who, in con- 
 nexion with Mr. Lennox, have rebuilt the premises on 
 a much larger scale. There are also two subscription 
 libraries. The remains of two forts of native construc- 
 tion are visible at the base of the Campsie fells : and 
 Roman urns, and coins of Elizabeth, James I., and 
 Charles I., have occasionally been dug up. 
 
 CANISBAY, a parish, in the county of Caithness ; 
 including the island of Stroma, a small part of the for- 
 mer quoad sacra parish of Keiss, and the detached 
 places or townships of Auckingill, Brabster, Duncans- 
 bay, Freswick, Gills, Huna, and East and West Mey ; 
 and containing 2306 inhabitants. The name of this 
 place has generally been supposed to be a corruption of 
 the term Canute's bay, from some Norwegian chief who 
 arrived here ; but others think it comes from Carina, 
 the name of a plant once abundant in the district. In 
 ancient times the parish was portioned into several 
 parts, in each of which there was a religious edifice ; 
 and at Freswick are the ruins of an old castle, called 
 Bucliolie Castle, which is of great antiquity, and is said 
 to have been inhabited in the twelfth century by a 
 Danish nobleman of the name of Suenus Asteilf. From 
 certain entries in the session records, it is probable that 
 Oliver Cromwell, or some of his officers, were in the 
 parish in the year 1652. 
 
 Canisbay is situated in the north-east corner of 
 Scotland, and is the most remote parish in the country. 
 It measures about eight miles in length, from east to 
 west, and its mean breadth is about six miles, the whole 
 containing upwards of 32,000 acres. The parish is 
 bounded on the north by the Pcntland Firth, and on 
 the east by the (lerman Ocean ; the coast on the north 
 side is in general level, but on the east bold and preci- 
 VoL. I.— 185 
 
 pitous. The chief headlands are Grey-head, Skirsa- 
 head, St. John's or Mey head, and the beautiful pro- 
 montory of Duncan.sbay head, which last is about two 
 miles in circumference, and is indented with several 
 large ravines. Near it are two rocks surrounded by 
 the sea, called the Stacks of Duncansbay ; they are of 
 oval form, and rise fantastically to a great height, 
 attracting swarms of sea-fowl in the spring and summer : 
 on the top of the larger stack the eagle has its habita- 
 tion. The bays are, Freswick bay, on the east, and 
 Duncansbay and Gills bay, on the north, the beaches of 
 which consist principally of sand aud shells. In the 
 interior the land is remarkably level, the Ward or Watch 
 hill being the only considerable elevation, rising about 
 300 feet above the sea ; the loch of Mey, in circumference 
 about a mile and a half, is the sole loch in the parish, and 
 among the few small streams the burn of Freswick is the 
 principal. 
 
 Heath and deep moss, with a little coarse grass, cover 
 nine-tenths of the surface ; in the cultivated grounds 
 the soil consists in general of a light black loam, with 
 an intermixture of moss. The moor and pasture com- 
 prehend about 28,800 acres in a state of undivided 
 common, and open to the cattle and sheep of all the 
 parishioners ; the arable land consists of about 3200 
 acres, the produce of which is bear and oats, with pota- 
 toes, turnips, &c. The sheep and cattle, with the excep- 
 tion of a few reared by the large proprietors, are of the 
 native breeds in their worst and most deteriorated state. 
 Agriculture is at a very low ebb ; the rotation system 
 is unknown among the people in general, and the crops, 
 for want of manure and good husbandry, are of a very 
 inferior kind. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £3675. The prevailing rock is red sandstone; 
 there is also some greywacke, and a tolerable supply of 
 limestone is obtained. The three chief proprietors have 
 all good mansions ; that of the Earl of Caithness is 
 Barrogil Castle, an ancient and venerable pile, and the 
 two others are the Houses of Freswick and Brabster. 
 Several boats are regularly engaged in obtaining lobsters 
 for the London market, and there are thirty large boats 
 employed in the herring-fishery, the value of the fisheries 
 being estimated at £1650 per annum. Cod are plentiful 
 on the coast ; and coal-fish, or, as they are provincially 
 called, cuddens, are at some seasons of the year caught 
 in immense quantities, and are of great use to the poorer 
 inhabitants, as they not only serve for food, but supply 
 plenty of oil for light. The people rely principally upon 
 fishing for their subsistence. There are post-offices at 
 Mey and Huna, the latter of which is seventeen miles 
 and a quarter from Wick ; and a turnpike-road runs 
 from Thurso to Huna. Two small fairs for the sale of 
 horses, cattle, and swine are held yearly, one in Febru- 
 ary, at Freswick, and the other in December, at Canis- 
 bay. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Caithness, synod of Caithness and Suther- 
 land ; patron, William James John Alexander Sinclair, 
 Esq., of Freswick : the stipend is £205, and there is a 
 manse, with a glebe worth £6 per annum. The church 
 was thoroughly repaired in 1832, and accommodates 
 512 persons. A parochial school is supported, the 
 master of which has the maximum salary, with the legal 
 accommodations, and £5 fees. There are also two 
 schools maintained by the Society for Propagating Chris- 
 
 2 B
 
 C ANO 
 
 C A NO 
 
 tian Knowledge, a General Assembly's school, and a 
 parochial subscription library. About a mile and a half 
 to the west of Duncansbay-head stood the celebrated 
 John o' Groat's House, of which nothing but the site re- 
 mains. 
 
 CANNA, an island of the Hebrides, forming part of 
 the parish of Small Isles, in the district of Mull, 
 county of Argyll; and containing 255 inhabitants. 
 This island is about thirty miles distant from that of 
 Eigg, and is computed to be four miles in length and 
 one in breadth, containing about IQOO acres ; it is partly 
 high and rocky, but affords excellent pasture, and tole- 
 rable tillage. The harbour is accounted one of the best 
 among the Hebrides, though difficult of approach in 
 stormy weather, owing to the narrowness of the entrance, 
 and the sunken rocks that he near it. On the south-east 
 side of Canna is Sand Island, separatsd by a channel 
 which is dry at low water. 
 
 CANNESBURN, a hamlet, in the parish of New 
 KiLPATRiCK, county of Dumbarton, 1 mile (S. by E.) 
 from New Kilpatrick ; containing 33 inhabitants. It is 
 seated on the road from Glasgow to Drymen. 
 
 CANONBIE, or CANOBIE, a parish, in the county 
 of Dumfries, 6 miles (S.) from Langholm, and the same 
 distance (N.) from Longtown ; containing 303'i inha- 
 bitants. An ancient priory that was situated here is 
 supposed to have given name to this place, Canonbie 
 probably signifying "the residence of the canons". 
 How long this religious establishment existed before the 
 year 1165, when a grant of land was made by William 
 the Lion, is uncertain. In the year 1533 Henry VIII. 
 claimed it as having belonged at one time, as well as 
 the whole parish, to England ; upon which pretence he 
 ordered hostilities to be commenced on the Scottish 
 borders. About the end of the reign of James V., in 
 1542, after the surrender of the Scottish army at Solway 
 Moss, the English soldiers, upon the same pretext, pil- 
 laged and laid in ruins both the monastery and church. 
 The church was dedicated to St. Martin, and was often 
 called the Church of Liddel or Liddal, from the river 
 near which it stood : in the reign of David I., Turgot de 
 Rossedale founded a canonry in connexion with it, which 
 afterwards came into the hands of the monks at Jed- 
 burgh, but was dissolved at the Reformation. Canonbie 
 is called debatable land ; and on account of its exposure 
 to the English borderers, many places of defence were 
 formerly erected, the vestiges of some of which still 
 remain. At a place called Gill-knocky, eastward of 
 Hollows bridge, stands the tower of Hollows, the re- 
 puted castle of Johnnie Armstrong, a famous chieftain 
 in the reign of James V., and styled John of Gill-knocky ; 
 he was the terror of the western marches of England, 
 and forced the inhabitants of Cumberland, Westmorland, 
 and a great part of Northumberland, to become his tri- 
 butaries, or annually pay him blackmail. Not far from 
 Penton Linns, on the banks of the Liddel, was the strong 
 tower of Harelaw, the residence of Hector Armstrong, 
 the famous freebooter, who, by bribery, betrayed the 
 Earl of Northumberland into the bands of the regent 
 Murray. 
 
 The PARISH is nine miles long and six broad, and 
 contains an area of 23,17" acres, 2 roods, 14 perches, of 
 which 11,774 acres are in tillage, 10,522 in pasture, and 
 881 in wood. It is bounded on the south and east by 
 the county of Cumberland, from which it is divided by 
 186 
 
 the river Liddel and the river Esk, and by a plantation 
 of above five miles reaching from the Esk to the Sark, 
 which then becomes the boundary. On the north the 
 parish is divided from the parish of Langholm by the 
 Tarras, a very rocky stream with well-wooded banks, 
 anciently a favourite haunt of the freebooters, or moss- 
 troopers. The district may be considered as the low 
 grounds of Eskdale ; the surface, however, is uneven, 
 and diversified by a variety of ridges, with the exception 
 of the land on the banks of the Esk, which is generally 
 level. The Esk river, flowing through the middle of the 
 parish from north to south, receives the Liddel nearly 
 at the southern boundary, and falls, at the distance of 
 about seven miles from the parish, into the Solway 
 Firth. Along its course, parallel with which passes the 
 great road from Edinburgh to London by Langholm and 
 Carlisle, is a succession of some of the most varied and 
 beautiful scenery to be met with in any part of Scotland. 
 The Liddel runs between banks adorned with natural 
 wood and plantations, and in several places the channel 
 of the river is much contracted, and, flowing over a bed 
 of limestone, broken into fantastic masses, exhibits a 
 scene of striking interest and beauty when the stream is 
 a little swollen. The soil, on the holm-land in the 
 neighbourhood of the rivers, is chiefly light loam, and 
 produces early and rich crops of all kinds, being much 
 favoured by the shelter of a profusion of wood. On the 
 higher grounds it is mossy, wet, and clayey, but, if well 
 limed, produces good crops of oats in dry seasons. This 
 land has been much improved within the last fifteen 
 years by tile-draining, and a large part of it is now 
 capable of bearing crops of all descriptions. The sheep 
 are the Cheviots, the largest of which are often crossed 
 with the Leicester ; some of the cattle are the Teeswater, 
 but the Galloway breed is preferred. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £9095. Limestone, 
 sandstone, and coal abound, the last in hollows of the 
 transition rocks. In 1S47 an act was passed authorizing 
 the construction of a colliery branch of nine miles, to 
 Canonbie, from the Caledonian railway. There are ex- 
 tensive corn-mills at HoUows, near the Esk. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes, the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Langholm and synod of 
 Dumfries ; patron, the Duke of Buccleuch : the stipend 
 is £236. 12. 6., with a manse, and a glebe of twenty 
 acres, valued at £20 per annum. The church is an ele- 
 gant sandstone building with a tower, erected in 1822, 
 at an expense of £3000, and containing sittings for up- 
 wards of 1000 persons. There is a parochial school, in 
 which Greek, Latin, French, and all the usual branches 
 of education are taught ; the master has a salary of 
 £31. 6., with the legal accommodations, and fees amount- 
 ing to about £30. A subscription library, two friendly 
 societies, and a savings' bank are also supported. Among 
 the numerous ruins of defence-towers, the most perfect 
 and the most famed is that of Johnnie Armstrong, sixty 
 feet long, forty-six broad, and seventy-two high ; it has 
 two round turrets, with loop-holes at the east and west 
 angles, and was in former times a place of great strength. 
 About one mile to the east of this are the remains of a 
 Roman station, supposed to be the first in the chain from 
 Netherbie to Castle-Over, the upper camp, in the parish 
 of Eskdalemuir. There are also vestiges of a Roman 
 road having passed through the parish of Canonbie, in a 
 direction nearly from north to south. Dr. Russell, au-
 
 C A PU 
 
 CARD 
 
 tbor of the History of Modern Europe, who died in 1*93, 
 and Mr. Benjamin Bell, the celebrated surgeon, were na- 
 tives of the parish. 
 
 CANONGATE.— See Edinburgh. 
 
 CAOLVALLOCK, a haralet, in the parish of Weem, 
 county of Perth ; containing 50 inhabitants. 
 
 CAPUTH, a parish, in the county of Perth ; con- 
 taining, with the villages of Craigie, Fungarth, Kin- 
 cairnie, Meikleour, and Spittalfield, 231* inhabitants, of 
 whom 17s are in the village of Wester Caputh, 5 miles 
 (E. S. E.) from Dunkeld. This place, called in ancient 
 records Keapoch, is said to have been in former times the 
 site of a Pictish town of great strength, named, according 
 to Boetius, Tuline or Tulina, and the inhabitants of which, 
 who were very numerous, burned and deserted it on the 
 approach of the Romans. It is said to have been situ- 
 ated at a place called at present Inchtuthil, " the island 
 in the flooded stream", and is supposed to be the station 
 described by Tacitus, to which Agricola led his troops 
 after the famous battle with Galgacus. Caputh is men- 
 tioned in Mylne's Lives of the Bishops of Dunkeld as ori- 
 ginally forming a portion of the parish of Little Dunkeld, 
 and as having been erected into a distinct parish, in the 
 year 1.500, by Bishop Brown, who at his own cost built 
 a choir, with painted ceiling and glazed windows, and 
 for the support of the minister gave a vicarage which 
 had been formerly united to his see, with four acres of 
 glebe land ; and also some rising ground, called the 
 Mute hill, for the erection of a church. This author also 
 informs us, that the parish of Dowally was once a part 
 of Caputh, and that the same bishop built and endowed 
 a church in honour of St. Anne, among the woods of the 
 church lands of that district, in consequence of having 
 heard that the Irish language was spoken in the Highland 
 parts of Caputh. 
 
 The PARISH is situated on the northern bank of the 
 river Tay, which forms its boundary for ten miles, from 
 the bridge of Dunkeld, on the west, to the confluence of 
 the Tay and the Isla, on the east ; the latter river forms 
 its boundary on the south-east, and the Lunan separates 
 it on the north-east from Blairgowrie. It measures about 
 thirteen miles in length from east to west, and varies in 
 breadth from two to seven miles, comprising 16,000 acres, 
 which form the principal part of the plain of Stormont, 
 a continuation of the vale of Strathmore. The surface is 
 considerably diversified ; the portion towards the south- 
 east is nearly level, and consists of rich and well-culti- 
 vated tracts, while the northern and north-western parts 
 are hilly, and present many beautiful varieties of High- 
 land scenery, enlivened by refreshing streams traversing 
 the verdant dales. The river Tay, on which and also on 
 the Isla are several fishing-stations, varies in width in 
 this part from 150 to 200 yards, and is distinguished for 
 its striking scenery. Towards the northern boundary, 
 the burn of Lunan, which rises in the Grampians, falls 
 down a precipitous and thickly-wooded glen two or three 
 miles long, and reaches the loch of Craiglush ; adjoining 
 this is the fine piece of water called Lows, about two 
 miles north-east of Dunkeld, and not far ofl' is the luch 
 of Butterstone. After passing through all these waters, 
 and connecting them in a chain, the Lunan runs east- 
 ward, and falls into the Isla about seven miles from 
 Caputh church. 
 
 The SOIL, near the rivers, is a rich alluvial earth, and 
 is much indebted for its fertility to deposits conveyed by 
 187 
 
 the frequent overflowing of the streams. In the lower 
 and level grounds it is in general light and dry, and in 
 the higher parts cold and wet, though, where well culti- 
 vated, very fertile. The husbandry is on a superior foot- 
 ing, and excellent crops are raised ; bone manure has 
 been extensively applied, and, in some parts, very bene- 
 ficially as a top-dressing to the pasture. The cattle 
 formerly bred were the Angus dodded sort ; but these 
 have been latterly much improved i)y crosses with the 
 Teeswater and the Ayrshire, and the sheep, which are of 
 various kinds, are gradually improving by the intermix- 
 ture of Leicester stock. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £14,426. The chief rocks are 
 limestone and clay-slate, and the former, which is of 
 good quality, has been extensively quarried for some 
 years, and burnt in kilns the construction of which 
 obtained a premium from the Highland Society some 
 time since. At Newtyle, a quarry of dark-blue slate of 
 firm texture has long been in operation, and the material 
 is in great demand. The mansions are, Delvine House, 
 a plain but pleasant residence, nearly three miles east of 
 the church ; Meikleour House, beautifully seated on the 
 north bank of the Tay ; Snaigow House, an elegant man- 
 sion in the old baronial style, two miles north of the 
 church ; and Glendelvine, a modern residence, similar in 
 style to Snaigow. Cattle-fairs are held at Meikleour on 
 the fourth Friday in June, on July 2nd, the third Friday 
 in August, and the fourth Friday in October. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Dun- 
 keld, synod of Perth, and in the patronage of the Crown ; 
 the minister's stipend is about £200, with a manse and 
 glebe valued together at £4*. 10. per annum. Caputh 
 church, built in 1798, and situated on an eminence near 
 the southern border, is a plain commodious edifice, con- 
 taining sittings for 800 persons ; it has lately been ex- 
 tensively repaired, and improved by the erection of a 
 new porch at each end. The parochial school is in the 
 village of Spittalfield, and affords instruction in the usual 
 branches ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house 
 and garden, and £30 fees. A savings' bank was esta- 
 blished in 1815, which is now a branch of the National- 
 Security Savings' Bank, and in a flourishing condition. 
 Remains exist of a Roman camp at Inchtuthil, supposed 
 to have been the station of Agricola. It is situated on 
 the north-eastern part of a piece of table-land covering 
 upwards of 200 acres, steep on all sides, and elevated 
 about sixty feet above the plain. It measures about 500 
 yards square, and the walls, now almost levelled by the 
 plough, were nine feet and a half thick, and built with 
 stones brought from a quarry two miles distant ; on the 
 south-eastern side arc two tumuli, and a redoubt. There 
 are also in the parish numerous Druidical circles, and 
 cairns, one of the latter of which, called Cairnmure, or 
 the Big Cairn, is the largest in the county, being 456 feet 
 in circumference and fourteen feet in height. 
 
 CARA, Argyll. — See Gigha and Cara. 
 
 CARDROSS, a parish, in the county of Diimuarton ; 
 including the villages of West Bridgend and Ronton, and 
 the hamlet of Geilstone-Bridge ; and containing 4416 in- 
 habitants, of whom 51 are in the hamlet of Cardross, 3| 
 miles (W. N. W.) from Dumbarton, on the road to Helens- 
 burgh. The name was derived from a compound word 
 in the Celtic language, signifying " the point of the 
 moorish ridge" ; the ancient site of the church was on 
 the point formed by the rivers Leven and Clyde, and the 
 
 2 B 2
 
 CARD 
 
 CARE 
 
 term was probably not inappropriate to the original aspect 
 of the place. Cardross appears to have escaped those 
 bloody feuds which were so common in the surrounding 
 country, not from any security in its position, but from 
 the peaceful disposition of its inhabitants, who, though 
 sometimes visited by predatory bands, furnished no pre- 
 text by a sanguinary resentment for the renewal of hos- 
 tilities. It was the seat of the retirement of Robert 
 Bruce, King of Scotland, during the last years of his life, 
 when he frequently indulged in the pleasures of the chase. 
 At the first milestone from Dumbarton along the Card- 
 ross road, is a wooded knoll that still bears the name of 
 Castlehill ; and though no remains are now to be seen of 
 any building, it is probable that Bruce resided in a castle 
 once standing here. He ended his days at Cardross in 
 1329. 
 
 The PARISH, which is situated on the northern bank 
 of the Clyde, is eight miles in extreme length, and varies 
 in breadth from one and a half to three miles. It contains 
 about 9600 acres, of which one-half are cultivated, and 
 about 150 acres are under plantation. The surface rises 
 from the Clyde by a gentle ascent till it reaches its high- 
 est elevation, at the summits of the Kiliter and Carman, 
 in the northern extremity of the parish, about 900 feet 
 above the sea. The shore is marked by the prominent 
 headland of Ardmore, which rises in the Clyde to a height 
 of forty feet, and is connected with the parish by an isth- 
 mus running from the flat piece of land by which the 
 rock is surrounded. On the banks of the river Clyde, 
 which is between one and two miles in breadth, and in 
 the interior, the soil is generally a light thin mould ; on 
 the higher grounds the soil has a greater depth, and rests 
 chiefly on a tilly subsoil. In the vicinity of the vale of 
 the river Leven, in the south-eastern part of the parish, 
 there is a rich loam, with alluvial deposits. Upon the 
 estates of Dalquhurn and Camis-Eskan are plantations 
 of larch, fir, and oak, in a flourishing state ; and the 
 lands of Mildovan, Kilmahew, Kipperminshock, and Ar- 
 doch have infant plantations of promising appearance. 
 The progress of agricultural improvement, during the 
 present century, has been very considerable ; much waste 
 land has been reclaimed, and the land under cultivation 
 has been benefited by draining and manuring. The live 
 stock consists principally of cattle and sheep, purchased 
 in the Highlands, and which graze upon the extensive 
 tracts of moorland. In the lower parts of the parish, 
 tillage and dairy-farming are to a great extent united, 
 the latter branch having been much encouraged by the 
 introduction of the best Ayrshire cows, and by tlie cul- 
 tivation of the most approved bulboi's-rooted green crops. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £14,3/5. The prevailing rock is freestone, which in the 
 eastern district is reddish and crumbling, but in other 
 places of a light grey cast and better consistence, and 
 mixed with breccia. The promontory of Ardmore is 
 dark red breccia, with pebbles of quartz ; and in the 
 neighbourhood of the Kiliter range are beds of jasper, 
 lying between breccia and sandstone. In some of the 
 glens limestone is found ; but the sand and magnesia 
 with which it is mixed render it unfit for agricultural use, 
 although it has been occasionally wrought and burnt to 
 a small extent. The mansions in the parish include the 
 ancient houses of Ardoch and Kilmahew, both now aban- 
 doned, and Camis-Eskan ; the more modern structures 
 are Keppoch, Ardmore, and Bloomhill. At Dalquhurn 
 ISS 
 
 works, in the vicinity of Renton, calico-printing, bleach- 
 ing, and dyeing are carried on, affording employment to 
 between 250 and 300 persons. There is an inconsider- 
 able salmon-fishery on the river Leven, and trout and 
 salmon are taken at Ardmore and Colgrain ; but the 
 Yair fisheries on the Clyde, once so celebrated, and con- 
 firmed by several royal charters, are now almost unpro- 
 ductive. A fair is held on the first Wednesday in June, 
 for black-cattle, horses, and sheep. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr : 
 the minister's stipend is £155. 8. 9-, with a manse, and a 
 glebe of the annual value of £30 ; the patronage is in 
 the Crown. Cardross church, a very neat structure, was 
 built in 1827, and accommodates above SOO persons. 
 There is a missionary station at Renton connected with 
 the Established Church, and places of worship are main- 
 tained in the parish in connexion with the Free Church 
 and United Presbyterian Synod. A parochial school is 
 supported, in which Latin is taught, with the usual 
 branches of education : the master has a salary of £34, 
 about £20 fees, and £15 from a piece of ground granted 
 in the seventeenth century by the family of Napier ; also 
 five and a half bolls of barley, and the interest of £100. 
 There are two public subscription libraries, one in Ren- 
 ton, containing 1000 volumes, and the other at Geilstone, 
 with 400 volumes ; also a Sunday-school library of 200 
 volumes. The poor have about £250 a year, the pro- 
 ceeds of a bequest left by Mrs. Jane Moore. Near Ren- 
 ton stands the ancient house of Dalquhurn, the birthplace 
 of Dr. Tobias Smollett ; and near the house a Tuscan 
 column has been erected, which bears an elegant Latin 
 inscription in memory of the novelist, who died at Leg- 
 horn in 1771. 
 
 CARESTON, a parish, in the county of Forf.\r, 4 
 miles (W.) from Brechin; containing 218 inhabitants. 
 This place, originally Caraldstone, of which its present 
 appellation is simply a contraction, derived that name 
 from a stone erected over the grave of Carald, a Danish 
 leader, who was slain here in his flight from the battle 
 of Aberlemno, in the reign of Malcolm III. The parish 
 is about three miles in length, and one mile in average 
 breadth, comprising 2056 acres, of which 1422 are arable, 
 280 woodland and plantations, and the remainder meadow 
 and pasture. The surface rises in gentle undulations, 
 from its southern boundary, towards the north, and, near 
 its termination in that direction, declines gradually to the 
 confines of the parish of Menmuir. The Noran rivulet, 
 which has its rise in the Grampians, flows with a rapid 
 current through the lands, and near the southern limits 
 of the parish falls into the river South Esk, which also 
 intersects the parish, and forms part of its southern 
 boundary. This rivulet passes over rock or gravel, and 
 is remarkably limpid. The soil is chiefly a rich black 
 loam, interspersed with some small tracts of moor ; and 
 the chief crops are oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and 
 turnips : the system of agriculture is improved, and 
 draining has been extensively practised. The farm- 
 buildings are generally commodious, and on two of the 
 farms are threshing-mills, one of which is driven by 
 water. The lands are inclosed partly with stone dykes, 
 and partly with hedges of thorn. In general the cattle 
 are of the native black breed ; there are few sheep pas- 
 tured on the lands : considerable attention is paid to the 
 dairy, and large quantities of butter and cheese are sent
 
 C A R G 
 
 CARL 
 
 to the Brechin market. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £'27 17- The principal substrata 
 are of the old red sandstone formation, interspersed with 
 beds of what is by some considered to be lias ; in the 
 higher lands large blocks of trap rock are to be met with, 
 •with boulders of granite, basalt, and greenstone. 
 
 The plantations, which are in a thriving state, are 
 chiefly pine and larch, with birch, elm, beech, and Scotch 
 and spruce firs ; and on the demesne of Careston Castle 
 are lime, ash, poplar, plane, and Spanish and horse ches- 
 nut, some of which have attained a considerable growth. 
 Careston Castle, mainly erected by one of the Earls of 
 Crawfurd in the fifteenth century, is a spacious man- 
 sion, w'ith two boldly projecting wings connected by a 
 corridor in front ; the west wing, which is the more 
 ancient, is supposed to have been added by one of the 
 Carneggy family, and the eastern by Major Skene soon 
 after he purchased the property. The mansion has a 
 stately grandeur of appearance, and contains numerous 
 elegant apartments, elaborately decorated. Above the 
 mantel-piece in the drawing-room is a representation of 
 the royal arms of Scotland, which appear to have been 
 granted to the first Earl of Crawfurd ; in the dining-room 
 are the armorial bearings of the Earl of Airlie, and over 
 what was formerly the grand entrance to the castle are 
 those of Carneggy of Balnamoon. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of Brechin 
 and synod of Angus and Mearns. The minister's sti- 
 pend is £15S. 7- 6., of which one-half is paid from the 
 exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe valued at £12 per 
 annum : patron, the Earl of Fife. Careston church, 
 erected in 1636, and repaired in 1S08, is a plain old 
 structure, and although partially repaired at different 
 times, is cold and uncomfortable during winter; it is 
 conveniently situated, and contains 200 sittings. The 
 parochial school affords instruction to about sixty 
 children ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house 
 and garden, and the fees average about £12. The late 
 David Skene, Esq., bequeathed £250 in aid of the funds 
 of the Kirk Session. 
 
 CARGILL, a parish, in the county of Perth, 7^ 
 miles (N. by E.) from Perth ; containing, with the villages 
 of Burreltown, Wolfhill, and Woodside, 1642 inhabitants. 
 This place, the name of which, of Celtic origin, signifies 
 a village with a church, originally formed a portion of 
 the parish of Cupar-Angus, from which, according to 
 ancient records, it was separated prior to the year 1514. 
 It was for many generations the chief seat of the family 
 of Drummond, of whom Annabella, daughter of Sir John 
 Drummond, was married to Robert III., King of Scotland, 
 and crowned with that monarch at Scone in 1390 ; she 
 was the mother of James I., from whom descended the 
 royal family of Stuart. Stobhall, the seat of the Drum- 
 monds, now almost in a ruinous state, came into the 
 possession of the family by the marriage of Sir John 
 Drummond with Lady Mary, eldest daughter of Sir 
 William de Montife.x, lord justiciary of Scotland. The 
 ancient mansion, which appears to have been built at 
 different periods, is romantically situated on a narrow 
 tongue of land, on the banks of the river Tay. 
 
 The I'ARisH, which is in the valley of Strathmore, is 
 about six miles in length, and four in average breadth. 
 Its surface is diversified, and the parish is bounded on 
 the west and north-west by the Tay, and on the north 
 by the river Isla, which flows into the Tay about half a 
 189 
 
 mile above the village of Cargill. The land rises by a 
 gradual ascent, from the margin of the river Tay, for 
 nearly a mile, till it attains an elevated plain, varied with 
 occasional eminences interspersed with small glens ; the 
 Sidlaw hills form the eastern boundary. The scenery is 
 pleasingly enriched with plantations, chiefly of Scotch fir, 
 with coppices of birch and oak ; the native woods, which 
 were formerly extensive, and afforded secure concealment 
 to Sir William Wallace and his adherents from the pur- 
 suit of their enemies, are greatly diminished. The soil, 
 along the banks of the river, and on the other low lands, 
 is a humid clay, but fertile, producing abundant crops of 
 grain, and gradually inclines, as the ground ascends, to 
 a rocky marl ; towards the base of the hills it is a light 
 dry gravel, and, on the summit of the elevated plain, 
 partly loam and moorland. The system of agriculture is 
 in an improved state, but much yet remains to be done. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £7786. 
 The Tay abounds with salmon, of which there is a valu- 
 able fishery, and with trout and pike, and is a favourite 
 resort for anglers. Near the west end of the parish it 
 flows over a rugged basaltic dyke, where it forms a fine 
 cascade called the Linn of Campsie. In another part it 
 is crossed by the Perth and Forfar railway, which thence 
 intersects the parish, on its way to Cupar-Angus. The 
 substratum of the parish is chiefly freestone, of good 
 quality, and of excellent colour, which has been exten- 
 sively wrought : limestone is also found, but it is not 
 much in operation ; and rock marl of a reddish colour is 
 abundant, and might be rendered available to the im- 
 provement of the moorlands in the upper parts. The 
 only manufacture carried on is the weaving of linen for 
 the Dundee manufacturers, which affords employment to 
 a few families. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dunkeld, synod of Perth and Stirling ; the 
 patronage is in the Crown, and the minister's stipend is 
 £224. 16., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £14 per 
 annum. Cargill church is a neat and well-arranged 
 structure, erected in 1832, and situated on the sloping 
 bank of the river Tay. There is a place of worship for 
 members of the Free Church. The parochial school is 
 well attended ; the master has a salary of £34, with a 
 house and garden, and the fees average about £15, to 
 which Lady Willoughby de Eresby adds £10 for teaching 
 the poor gratuitously. There were traces, till within the 
 last few years, of a Roman station and road ; but under 
 the extension and improvements in agriculture, they have 
 been almost entirely obliterated. Near the Linn of 
 Campsie was an ancient cell dependent on the abbey ot 
 Cupar-Angus ; but only very slight vestiges of it can be 
 traced. Stobhall gave the title of Baron to the Earls of 
 Perth, who were Lords Drummond and Stobhall, till the 
 forfeiture in 1 746. 
 
 CARLAVEROCK, in the county of Dumfries.— See 
 Caerlavkrock. 
 
 CARLOPS, a village, in the parish of Linton, 
 county of Peebles; containing 153 inhabitants. This 
 village is irregularly built on the banks of a rivulet falling 
 into the North Esk. It is chiefly inhabited by persons 
 employed in weaving cotton for the manufacturers of 
 Glasgow and Paisley, and coal and limestone are wrought 
 in the immediate neighbourhood. Carlops is a popular 
 abbreviation of Carlinj^'s Luiips, localities in the vicinity, 
 so named iu allusion to acts of a witch of former times.
 
 CARL 
 
 CARL 
 
 who is said to have furnished to Allan Ramsay the 
 character of Mause in the Gentle Shepherd, the scenery of 
 which poem is in the neighbourhood. Near the village 
 is a rock of freestone, impending over a narrow glen ; it 
 is called Harbour Craig, and, in this sequestered place, 
 has a strikingly romantic appearance. 
 
 CARLUKE, a parish, in the Upper ward of the 
 county of Lanark ; including the villages of Braidwood, 
 Kilcadzow, and Yieldshields ; and containing 4809 in- 
 habitants, of whom '2090 are in the village of Carluke, 5 
 miles (N. N. W.) from Lanark. The name appears to 
 have been derived from the word Caer, signifying "a 
 hill", and Luuc, " Luke", in reference to the dedication 
 of the church, and to the elevated site of the parish. 
 The first historical traces of the district are connected 
 with the reign of David L, when the founder of the 
 Lockhart family, whose descendant is still the principal 
 heritor, came into Scotland with some other Norman 
 families and settled here. The lands of Kirkton, in the 
 Ijarish, anciently belonged to the abbey of Kelso, and 
 were erected into a barony in 1662, by Charles IL, in 
 favour of Walter Lockhart, a cadet of the family of 
 Wicketshaw, at that time the proprietors. By a charter 
 of Robert I., that monarch granted to the monks of 
 Lesmahagow ten merks yearly from the revenue of 
 his mills at Mauldslie, in Carluke, for supporting the 
 expense of lights at the tomb of St. Macute ; and in a 
 subsequent charter of the 8th of March, 1315, ten merks 
 yearly were bestowed upon the same monks, from the 
 mills, to supply eight wax lights fur the tomb on Sundays 
 and festivals. In this reign, also, the church, with all 
 its rights, was given by the king to the monks of Kelso, 
 who performed its duties by a curate, and continued in 
 the possession of its revenues till the Reformation. 
 
 The PARISH is about eight miles long, from east to 
 west, and about four and a half broad, containing 15,360 
 acres. It is bounded on the south-west by the Clyde, and 
 on the west by Garrion Gill. The surface is considerably 
 diversified, consisting of level ground, acclivities, hills, 
 and valleys, clothed in many parts with luxuriant pasture, 
 and ornamented with picturesque scenery, interspersed 
 with numerous neat and comfortable cottages, and 
 elegant mansions, and enlivened and irrigated by the 
 beautiful meanderings of the Clyde. Close to this river 
 is a long narrow tract of sloping ground of rich quality, 
 after which the land rises in an eastern direction, 400 or 
 500 feet above the sea. From the highest point of this 
 land, along which runs a ridge of sandstone, a level is 
 continued as far as the village, terminating in an exten- 
 sive hill called the Law of Mauldslie ; and at the back of 
 the village, the surface again rises towards the east, and 
 terminates in a wild moor. The principal hills are 
 Kilcadzow, Lee, King's, and Mauldslie, the last of which 
 is the most lofty, rising upwards of 800 feet above the 
 level of the sea. The most interesting view of the dis- 
 trict is from the Lanark and Glasgow road, on the op- 
 posite side of the Clyde, from w-hich point are seen the 
 banks of the river, adorned with fruit and forest trees, 
 and the numerous rills issuing from the concealed and 
 romantic glens and ravines, and eventually falling into 
 the Clyde. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of the river, the soil is a rich 
 
 loam ; generally, it is various ; in some parts, light and 
 
 sandy, and famed for its large crops of apples ahd pears. 
 
 The whole rests on a subsoil of clay, of widely different 
 
 190 
 
 appearance and quality ; grain to a large amount is 
 produced, and potatoes, turnips, and hay are likewise 
 raised. The system of husbandry here followed, on ac- 
 count of the peculiar character of the soil and other cir- 
 cumstances, is somewhat different from that generally 
 used in other districts. A rotation of crops is not much 
 approved ; the course preferred, except on the rich tracts 
 near the Clyde, is to convert the land into permanent 
 pasture, breaking it up only every fifth or sixth year for 
 a crop of oats. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £13,437. The rocks consist of limestone, 
 sandstone, and ironstone, which, with various kinds of 
 coal and clay, are found in large quantities. The lime- 
 stone, with one exception, all lies under the coal, which 
 latter is quarried to a very great extent, and is of ex- 
 cellent quality. Between the coal and limestone the 
 beds of sandstone occur, which, with numerous layers of 
 freestone, supply the best materials for building. A 
 ridge of trap runs eastward from Hillhead to Bashaw, 
 and quartz and agate are both found in the old red sand- 
 stone. One of the chief mansions is Mauldslie Castle, 
 built in 1793 by the Earl of Hyndford, an elegant 
 structure ornamented with turrets, and situated in a 
 well- wooded park, through which the Clyde flows for 
 about a mile. The mansion of Milton- Lockhart, lately 
 built, stands upon a point of land projecting into the 
 valley of the Cij'de, and beautifully skirted with deep 
 glens and thick woods ; the proprietor has built a bridge 
 of three arches over the river, after the model of Both- 
 well bridge. Braidwood House occupies an eminence 
 above the same vale, and is a handsome and commodious 
 structure. Carluke was erected in 166'2 into a burgh of 
 barony, under the name of Kirkstyle, with the privilege 
 of holding a weekly market, and a fair twice in the year : 
 a tax of sixpence in the pound, on house-rent, is levied 
 for the support of constables, and for cleaning and 
 lighting the streets. The population of the town, a few 
 years ago, was insignificant ; but there is now a variety 
 of good shops, and a post-office has been established 
 under Lanark. The inhabitants of the parish are chiefly 
 employed in agriculture, and in quarrying freestone, 
 limestone, ironstone, and coal. Fairs are held, one on 
 the 21st May, and another on the 31st October, at which 
 there is a very considerable traffic in milch-cows. The 
 Stirling and Carlisle turnpike-road, and the road between 
 Glasgow and Carnwath, run through the parish ; as does 
 also the Caledonian railway, which presents great facility 
 of intercourse. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Lanark, synod of Glas- 
 gow and Ayr ; the patronage belongs to the Lockhart 
 family of Lee and Carnwath, and the minister's stipend 
 is £262, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per 
 annum. Carluke church, which is a substantial build- 
 ing containing 1000 sittings, was built in 1799, at an 
 expense of £1000. There are places of worship for the 
 United Presbyterian Synod and the Synod of United 
 Original Seceders ; also a parochial school, in which 
 Latin is taught, with all the usual branches of education, 
 and the master of which has a salary of £34, and £50 
 fees, with a house and garden. A parochial library was 
 founded in 1827, and a society for the promotion of 
 useful knowledge in 1836 ; there is also an agricultural 
 society, instituted in 1833, for the purpose of encou- 
 raging improvements in the breed of cattle. The great
 
 C A R M 
 
 C A R M 
 
 Roman road, through Clydesdale, to the wall of Anto- 
 ninus, passed through the parish ; not far from it, at 
 Cairney Mount and at Law, several coffins have been 
 found, constructed of large stones, and containing urns 
 and ashes. Flint arrow-heads, hatchets, and numerous 
 coins of both silver and gold, of Roman origin, have 
 been also found, at Burnhead and Castlehill. In a dell 
 in the parish is a very ancient tower called Hallbar, 
 fifty-two feet high, and twenty-four feet square on the 
 outside, having a vault beneath, and three apartments, 
 the uppermost of which has an arched roof; it is sup- 
 posed, from mention of it in a deed dated 1685, to have 
 been attached to the barony of Braidwood. At Hang- 
 hill, near Mauldslie Castle, is an old burying-ground 
 several acres in extent, covered with large trees sixty or 
 seventy feet high, and in which the two last Earls of 
 Hyndford were interred. On the estate of Milton-Lock- 
 hart part of an ancient fort still remains, in which the 
 celebrated William Wallace once found refuge from the 
 pursuit of his enemies. Major-General Roy, the cele- 
 brated engineer, and author of a standard work on Ro- 
 man Antiquities, was a native of Carluke. 
 
 CARMICHAEL, a parish, in the Upper ward of the 
 county of Lanark, 5 miles (S. E.) from Lanark; con- 
 taining 874 inhabitants. This place derives its name 
 from St. Michael, to whom its first church was dedicated. 
 The remains of antiquity of which historical use can be 
 made, are very few ; in the south-west corner of the 
 parish are vestiges of a camp and military station, and 
 a few years ago a large coffin constructed of sandstone 
 was found, but destitute of any mark to guide opinion 
 as to its probable origin. On the summit of the lofty 
 mountain of Tinto is a cairn, or heap of stones ; and in 
 some parts are stone crosses, all of which point out the 
 places of military occupation and engagement, concern- 
 ing the particular facts of which nothing determinate 
 is on record. The ancient and illustrious family of Car- 
 michael occupy the most prominent place in the civil 
 history of the parish : one of its members, John, second 
 Lord Carmichael, born in 167'2, was created Earl of 
 Hyndford in 1701, and filled a succession of honourable 
 and important offices to the time of his death, which 
 took place on his estate here. 
 
 The length of the parish, from south-west to north- 
 east, is six miles, and its extreme breadth nearly five 
 miles ; containing about 1 1,630 acres. It is bounded on 
 the north by the Clyde river, from its confluence with 
 Douglas water to Mill-hill, and is intersected by the roads 
 from Carlisle to Stirling, and Edinburgh to Ayr. The 
 surface presents numerous irregularities, consisting of hill 
 and valley, breaks, and sweeping undulations, crowned 
 in the south-eastern part by the celebrated mountain of 
 Tinto, rising to an elevation of about 2400 feet. This 
 majestic hill, the name of which is said to signify " the 
 hill of fire ', from the fires formerly kindled upon it, 
 commands an interesting and extensive view of the lower 
 elevations of Carmichael, Drumalbin, Whitecastle, Cross- 
 ridge, and Stonehill hills, all in the parish, the ground 
 gradually sinking to the northern extremity. The 
 climate is cold ; the surface is covered in many parts 
 with poor pasture, and only in the highly cultivated 
 grounds has an agreeable aspect. In the vicinity of the 
 Clyde the soil is thin and sandy ; in other parts a good 
 deep loam ; but in the arable districts generally, damp 
 and clayey, resting upon an impervious till or ferruginous 
 191 
 
 clay, with a considerable mixture of marine stones. The 
 number of acres under cultivation is, 5924 arable, and 
 4807 pasture ; 926 acres are occupied by plantations, 
 which consist of oak, ash, elm, plane, beech, alder, poplar, 
 birch, and horse-chesnut. The crops generally raised 
 are oats, barley, bear, peas, potatoes, turnips, rj'e-grass, 
 and meadow hay, the first of which greatly predominates ; 
 the cattle are of the Ayrshire breed, and the sheep are 
 the black-faced, with a few Cheviots. The system of 
 agriculture is excellent, numerous improvements having 
 been introduced of late years. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £5280. 
 
 The prevailing rock is the old red sandstone, which is 
 good for building houses or fences, and is abundant in 
 the hills of Carmichael, Whitecastle, and Drumalbin ; 
 felspar porphyry, in some places, lies near the sandstone, 
 and in the Crossridge hill is a stratum of clay-slate, 
 passing into grey wacke slate. Blocks of quartz are some- 
 times to be seen, exposed by the action of the streams ; 
 and blocks of gneiss have been found, deposited in allu- 
 vial soil, whither it is supposed they were carried by the 
 violence of the rivers. There are quarries of limestone 
 and sandstone. Carmichael House, an ancient and 
 magnificent baronial residence, now deserted, for many 
 generations the seat of the family of the same name, is 
 encompassed by aged and lofty trees, and extensive 
 grounds and plantations, which were greatly improved 
 by John, Earl of Hyndford. The mansion of Eastend, 
 comparatively a modern structure, is elegant and com- 
 modious. There is a tan-work in the parish, in a pros- 
 perous state ; also an establishment for the currying of 
 leather, which is carried on with considerable profit. At 
 Carmichael Mill is a foundry, which supplies most of 
 the iron-work for threshing-mills and other machinery 
 used in the parish ; and there are thirty hands employed 
 as weavers. Ecclesiastically the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Lanark, synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr ; the patronage is exercised by Sir W. Car- 
 michael Anstruther, Bart., and the minister's stipend is 
 £225. Carmichael church, a cruciform building erected 
 in 1750, is in good repair, and accommodates between 
 400 and 500 persons ; the manse was built at the same 
 time, and considerably enlarged some years ago. The 
 glebe is valued at £20 per annum. There is a parochial 
 school, in which the classics, French, and mathematics 
 are taught, with all the usual branches of education ; the 
 salary is £32, with more than the legal accommodations, 
 and about £26. 8. fees. Another school, at Ponfeigh, is 
 supported partly by the heritors ; and there is a savings'- 
 bank, established in 1814. 
 
 CARMUNNOCK, a parish, in the Lower ward of 
 the county of Lanark; containing 717 inhabitants, of 
 whom 390 are in the village, 5 miles (S.) from Glasgow. 
 The name of this place is supposed to have been derived 
 from the compound Gaelic word Caer-iiunnwck, signify- 
 ing "the monk's fort". The remains of antiquity here 
 bear testimony to the settlement and military operations 
 of the Romans ; vestiges of a military road and camp 
 are still to be seen on the estate of Castlemilk, and pieces 
 of ancient armour, with a variety of utensils, have been 
 found. In the reign of William the Lion, the manor 
 was held by Henry, son of Anselm, who assumed the 
 njime of Henry of "Cormanock". Some time before 
 the year 1189, he granted the church to the monks of 
 Paisley, with half a carucate of land, and a right of
 
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 common, and directed that his remains and those of his 
 wife should be interred in the monastery. The church 
 was held by the monks till the Reformation. 
 
 The PARISH is about four miles long, from north-east 
 to south-west, aud averages about two miles and a half 
 in breadth. It contains 3540 acres, of which 3025 are 
 arable, and under a regular system of cultivation, 315 
 wood, and 135 pasture, the remainder being roads, &c. 
 The surface is considerably elevated, and exhibits a suc- 
 cession of hill and dale, varied with extensive and flou- 
 rishing plantations, and enlivened by the beautiful raean- 
 derings of the river Cart, on the western boundary of the 
 parish, which here borders on Renfrewshire. From the 
 summit of Cathkiu-hill, near the eastern boundary, at 
 an elevation of nearly 500 feet above the sea, the pro- 
 spect embraces parts of sixteen counties, the nearer view 
 consisting of the city of Glasgow, with its surrounding 
 villages, the towns of Rutherglen and Paisley, and the 
 vale of Clyde from Hamilton to Dumbarton. The pa- 
 rish abounds with springs, and there are five public 
 wells of good water in the village : the only river run- 
 ning through the parish is a small stream called the 
 Kittoch. The soil, which is generally uniform, consists 
 of good earth, about six or seven inches deep, and rest- 
 mg upon a superior whinstone rock, which extends 
 throughout the parish. In some spots, it is more moist 
 and clayey, with a retentive bottom, yet yielding excel- 
 lent crops when well drained and manured ; in a few 
 places it is considerably mixed with sand. Crops of all 
 kinds are raised, which, on account of the highly culti- 
 vated state of the soil, are of the first description ; and 
 the greatest encouragement is given to dairy-farming, 
 both for the superior profit it brings to the tenant, and 
 for the manure : the cows are all of the Ayrshire breed. 
 Many improvements have taken place in agriculture 
 within the last few years, and furrow-draining with tiles 
 has been extensively practised. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £5511. There is a con- 
 siderable quarry of freestone of good quality ; and on 
 the estate of Castlemilk excellent limestone and iron- 
 stone are found, the latter of which has been partially 
 wrought. The village population are chiefly hand-loom 
 weavers : an annual fair was formerly held. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; 
 patron, J. S. S. Stuart, Esq. The stipend is £152. 17. 6., 
 of which £39. 10. 10. are received from the exchequer. 
 The church, which is situated in the middle of the vil- 
 lage, was built in 1767, and repaired in 183S; it is a 
 neat structure, considering the date of its erection, and 
 seats about 450 persons. An excellent manse has been 
 lately built, and there is a glebe valued at £19 per an- 
 num. There is a parochial school, in which the usual 
 branches of a plain education are taught ; the master 
 has the maximum salary, and about £32 fees, with a 
 house and garden. An old thorn-tree here is much re- 
 garded, as marking out the spot from which Mary, 
 Queen of Scots, was a spectator of the defeat of her 
 army at the battle of Langside. 
 
 CARMYLE, a village, in the parish of Old Monk- 
 land, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 4^ miles 
 (S. E. by E.) from Glasgow ; containing 238 inhabitants. 
 This village, which is remarkable for its beautiful situ- 
 ation, and fine southern aspect, is seated on the north 
 side of the Clyde, and owes its origin to the establish- 
 192 
 
 ment of a muslin manufactory, about the year 1741, by 
 Mr. Mackenzie, a merchant of Glasgow. 
 
 CARMYLIE, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 6 
 miles (W. by N.) from Arbroath ; containing, with the 
 hamlet of Graystone, 1107 inhabitants. The name is 
 supposed to be derived from a Celtic word, signifying 
 " the top of a high rocky place ", which description an- 
 swers to a castle formerly standing here. At Carbuddo, 
 not far from the parish, are the remains of a camp, in- 
 dicating the occupation of the ground in ancient times 
 by the Romans, who are said to have reduced the forts 
 of Carmylie and Carnegie in the year 139. At one pe- 
 riod the lands belonged to the abbey of Aberbrothock, 
 whence the monks came to perform divine service at a 
 chapel here, more ancient than the abbey, dedicated to 
 the Virgin Mary, and called in old writings " Our Lady's 
 chapel of Carmylie"; its site is occupied by the present 
 church. The parish is about six miles long, and its 
 mean breadth three miles. It is bounded by portions 
 of eight parishes, and includes part of the range of the 
 Sidlaw hills, exhibiting a series of acclivities, which are 
 cultivated throughout, and rise 200 feet above the lowest 
 ground in the parish. These hills are nearly all of 
 equal height, and are about 580 feet above the sea, com- 
 manding on one side a beautiful and extensive prospect 
 of the Grampian mountains, and on the other, of the 
 German Ocean, the coast of Fife, and, sometimes, the 
 Lammermoor hills. The only stream of any note is the 
 Elot, or Elliot, which rises in a moss called Diltymoss, 
 and after a course of about eight miles falls into the sea 
 at Arbilot. 
 
 The soil most prevalent is a dark rich-looking mould, 
 which receives its hue, partly from a mixture of moss, 
 and partly from moisture ; a light dry soil is found on 
 some of the higher slopes, and in the valleys near the 
 streams is a rich fertile mould, with alluvial deposits. 
 There are about 200 acres of moss, many hundred acres 
 of moor, and 355 acres of plantation, consisting of 
 Scotch and spruce fir, larch, and the ordinary kinds of 
 hard-wood. The crops are wheat, barley, oats, turnips, 
 potatoes, hay, and peas. Great improvements have 
 been effected within the last half century, by the con- 
 version of pasture into arable land, by draining marshes 
 and mosses, and reclaiming wastes ; also by inclosures, 
 the erection of good farm-buildings, and the introduc- 
 tion of the best system of cultivation. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £8928. The 
 subsoil in many parts is a stiff retentive clay, requiring 
 frequent and deep draining. The rock most common, 
 especially in the higher lands, is the red or grey sand- 
 stone, covered with the whinstone called scurdy. At 
 Conansythe a large quantity of steatite has been found, 
 of red hue, variegated with white veins. There are 
 several good quarries in the parish, regularly worked, 
 the stone and slate of which are suited for pavement, 
 and for columns, balusters, aud various other orna- 
 ments in buildings : the produce is sent to the large 
 towns in Scotland, and to London ; the slate is of every 
 size, colour, and texture, and many pieces of it, beauti- 
 fully variegated with spots, when polished resemble a 
 fine marble. The parish contains two convenient and 
 elegant mansions, built of the native sandstone. That 
 ofGuynd is situated on the north bank of the Elot river, 
 and ornamented with several beautiful plantations ; the 
 other, Conansythe, stands on high ground, and com-
 
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 C A R N 
 
 mands an interestino; view of the vales of the Lunan 
 and the Brothock. The population has greatly increased 
 within the present century, an increase arising from the 
 manufacture of coarse linen, such as sheetings, dowlas, 
 Osnaburghs, &c., and from the large number of hands 
 employed in the quarries above referred to : these 
 quarries, however, are not so much wrought as they 
 were, owing to the great quantity of useless stone that 
 lies above the valuahle kind. A yearly cattle-market is 
 held about the end of the month of April, or the begin- 
 ning of May. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Arbroath, synod of Angus and Mearns. 
 The minister's stipend is £158. 6. 8. or upwards, of 
 which a portion is received from the exchequer ; there 
 is a good manse, built in 1820, and the glebe is valued 
 at £30 per annum : the patronage is in the Crown. 
 Carmylie church, which is conveniently situated, is a 
 .substantial building of ancient date, accommodating 
 500 persons. A congregation has been formed here in 
 connexion with the Free Church. There is a parochial 
 school, in which Latin and all the branches of an ordi- 
 nary education are taught; the master has the maximum 
 salary, with about £18 fees, and a house and garden. 
 A library was instituted in 1828, and is under the 
 direction of the Kirk Session, and a committee ap- 
 pointed by the subscribers. At the Den of Guynd are 
 the remains of a fort called Dunhead, supposed to be of 
 Caledonian origin, and afterwards to have been occupied 
 by the Danes ; it is of triangular form, and appears to 
 have been encompassed by a ditch and wall. Urns and 
 human bones have been found in the neighbourhood, 
 the bones supposed to be the remains of Danes who fell in 
 the battle of Barrie, when the Danes were defeated by 
 Malcolm II. There are several chalybeate springs, the 
 strongest of which is one in the den of Guynd. 
 
 CARNBEE, a parish, in the district of St. An- 
 drew's, county of Fife, 2 miles (N. N. W.) from Pit- 
 tenweem ; containing 1043 inhabitants. This parish, 
 which is situated in the south-eastern part of the county, 
 is about four miles and a half in length, and nearly of 
 equal breadth, comprising about 5600 acres, of which 
 more than 3000 are arable, and the remainder, with the 
 exception of a moderate proportion of woodland and 
 plantations, good meadow and pasture. Its surface is 
 diversified with hills of conical form, the most conspicu- 
 ous of which is Kellie Law, rising to the height of 810 
 feet, and commanding from the summit a fine view of 
 the Firth of Forth, the German Ocean, and the coasts of 
 Haddington and Mid Lothian, with the city of Edin- 
 burgh in the distance. Nearly one-half of this hill is 
 arable, and the remainder is covered with verdure to 
 the summit. The hills of Carnbee Law, Cumner, and 
 Gelland are of similar form, rising to a considerable 
 height, and affording excellent pasturage. The lands 
 are watered by several small burns, which flow in 
 various directions. The soil is mostly fertile ; in some 
 parts a clayey loam, in others a rich black mould of 
 great depth. The chief crops arc wheat, barley, oats, 
 peas, beans, potatoes, and turnips ; and the pastures 
 generally are luxuriant : the system of husbandry is 
 greatly improved. Around the mansions of the prin- 
 cipal projjrietors may be seen the remains of some fine 
 specimens of ancient timber, and the plantations that 
 have been formed are in a thriving state. The annual 
 Vol. I.— 193 
 
 value of real property in the parish is £11,390. The 
 substrata are chiefly coal, which is generally prevalent 
 throughout the parish, and of which two mines are in 
 operation ; and limestone and freestone of excellent qua- 
 lity, which are both extensively quarried. 
 
 Kellie Castle, for many generations the baronial seat 
 of the Earls of Kellie, and now the property of the Earl 
 of Mar and Kellie, was once a noble mansion, contain- 
 ing many stately apartments : it is situated near the 
 base of Kellie Law, in a richly-wooded demesne. Bal- 
 caskie House, near the southern boundary of the parish, 
 is surrounded with grounds tastefully laid out ; and 
 Pitcorthie House and Gibliston are also handsome resi- 
 dences. The village, which is small, is chiefly inhabited 
 by persons employed in the coal-works. Ecclesiastically 
 the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of St. 
 Andrew's aud synod of Fife : the minister's stipend is 
 about £238, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £30 
 per annum j patron, Sir Ralph Abercromby Anstruther, 
 Bart. The ancient church has been replaced by a neat 
 structure, erected in 1*94. The parochial school is well 
 attended ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house 
 and garden, and the school fees average £25. Among 
 distinguished persons connected with theparish,havebeen 
 Thomas, the musical Earl of Kellie; Dr. George Sibbald; 
 Sir William Bruce, the architect ; Hugo Arnot, author 
 of State Trials ; and Archibald Constable, the eminent 
 publisher, who was a native of Carnbee. 
 
 CARNIE-HILL, a village, in the parish of AucH- 
 TERGAVEN, couuty of Perth, 5| milcs (S. E. by S.) from 
 Dunkeld, on the road to Perth ; containing 133 inha- 
 bitants. This village, which is situated on the summit 
 of an elevated ridge, at whose base is the village of 
 Bankfoot, is almost identified with that place. It is 
 of recent origin, having, like Bankfoot, been built within 
 the present century, on land belonging to Mr. Wylie. 
 The houses are neat, and, from their elevated site, com- 
 mand extensive aud finely-varied prospects of the ad- 
 jacent country, which is well cultivated, and abounds 
 with interesting scenery. The inhabitants are chiefly 
 employed in weaving for the manufacturers of Dundee, 
 Arbroath, and other towns. 
 
 CARNOCH, or Strathconon, a quoad sacra parish, 
 20 miles (W.) from Dingwall ; consisting of parts of 
 the parishes of Contin, Fodderty, and Urray, county 
 of Ross and Cromarty ; and containing 563 inha- 
 bitants. The district is about eighteen miles in length, 
 and ten in breadth ; it takes its second name from the 
 river Conon, and wholly consists of moor pasture, with 
 the exception of a few patches of arable land. The 
 estate of Strathconon, which forms nearly the entire 
 parish, consists of 69,896 acres ; of these, 68,005 are 
 hills and moor, 972 arable land and green pasture, and 
 the remainder lochs. The population is agricultural, 
 and the farmers forward their produce to the Inverness 
 slieep and wool market, and the Moor of Ord cattle- 
 markets. Ecclesiastically, Carnoch is within the bounds 
 of the presbytery of Dingwall and synod of Ross. The 
 church is a plain building, erected in 1830 by the Par- 
 liamentary Commissioners, and contains 330 sittings. 
 The stipend of the minister is £120, and he has a manse, 
 a glebe of the annual value of £2, and grazing for two 
 cows and a horse : the patronage is in the Crown. There 
 is a school, endowed by the Society for the Propagation 
 of Christian Knowledge. 
 
 1 C
 
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 C A R N 
 
 CARNOCK, a parish, in the district of Dunferm- 
 line, county of Fife, 3 miles (W. N. W.) from Dun- 
 fermline ; containing, with the villages of Carnock and 
 Cairney-hill, and the hamlet of Gowkhall, 1270 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 1S4 are in the village of Carnock. This 
 place originally included only the barony of Carnock, 
 and the lands of Blair, and Easter and Wester Camps ; 
 but in 1650, the Pitdennies, the lands of Luscar, and 
 those of Clune, which formed part of the parish of 
 Dunfermline, were annexed to this parish by act of the 
 presbytery. The barony formerly belonged to Lieut. - 
 Col. John Erskine, whose eldest son, a distinguished 
 member of the bar, and professor of Scottish law in the 
 university of Edinburgh, built the old mansion of New- 
 bigging, now a farm-house. Mr. Erskine, after residing 
 at this place during the intervals of his professional 
 avocations, and having here composed his Institutes of 
 Law, removed to Cardross, where he died in 1767. The 
 parish, which is situated at the western extremity of the 
 county, is about three miles in length, and measures 
 nearly the same in average breadth, comprising about 
 2260 acres, of which 1060 are arable, 4.50 woodland and 
 plantations, and the remainder meadow and pasture. 
 Its surface is pleasingly undulated, in some parts having 
 a considerable elevation. Camps Hill and Carnie Hill 
 form a continuous range of rising ground, embracing a 
 prospect of the Firth of Forth, with the adjacent country 
 from Stirling on the west to Edinburgh on the east. 
 The Luscar Know and the Clun of Newbigging are the 
 most elevated points, and command views of the Ochils, 
 Ben-Lomond, and the Pentland hills. The streams are 
 small ; the Ink Craig, near the village of Carnock, is 
 remarkable for the black colour of its water, which for 
 ordinary purposes is sometimes used as ink. 
 
 The soil is extremely various, but generally produc- 
 tive, and in some parts richly fertile ; the system of 
 agriculture is in an improved state, and the crops are 
 oats, barley, wheat, and beans, with potatoes and turnips. 
 A considerable number of sheep are pastured ; the 
 cattle are chiefly of the Fifeshire and Teeswater breeds, 
 but few are reared, though great numbers are fattened 
 for the markets. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £3126. Coal is diOFused throughout, and 
 formerly there were five mines in operation ; the only 
 one at present wrought is on the lands of Blair, consist- 
 ing of four separate seams, the uppermost of which is a 
 blind coal, three feet in thickness, and is used chiefly 
 by brewers and maltsters. The other seams are house- 
 hold coal of different qualities, and the lowest is found 
 at a depth of twenty-three fathoms. Sandstone, lime- 
 stone, and varieties of trap, are among the rocks, and 
 freestone is quarried in several places ; in some, suscep- 
 tible of a high polish. Seams of ironstone, varying in 
 quality and thickness, are to be met with in several parts. 
 The plantations are in a thriving state, and are chiefly 
 larch, spruce, and Scotch firs, oak, beech, elm, chesnut, 
 and ash ; of these, the firs, oak, and beech, of which 
 there are many stately trees in the plantations formed 
 by Mr. Erskine, seem best adapted to the soil. 
 
 The principal seats are, Carnock House, a small but 
 handsome mansion ; Blair House, a neat substantial 
 building, erected about the year 1815; and Luscar House, 
 a handsome mansion in the Ehzabethan style, lately 
 erected. The village of Carnoch is pleasantly situated 
 on a rivulet of that name, over which is a bridge, sup- 
 194 
 
 posed from an inscription on one of the stones to have 
 been first erected about 1638 : a post-office, subordinate 
 to that of Dunfermline, was established in 1838. The 
 manufacture of table-linen, and table-covers of cotton 
 and worsted, affords employment to more than 200 of 
 the inhabitants, in hand-loom weaving for the whole- 
 sale houses at Dunfermline. A fair for cattle and for 
 general business is held on the 26th of May, or, when 
 that day falls on Sunday, on the preceding Saturday. 
 Facility of communication is afforded by the Stirling 
 and Dunfermline railway. Ecclesiastically, Carnock is 
 in the presbytery of Dunfermline and synod of Fife : 
 the minister's stipend is about £155, with a manse, and 
 a glebe valued at £24 per annum ; patron, John A. Stuart, 
 Esq., who is also the proprietor of a third part of the 
 parish. The church, erected in 1841, is a handsome cruci- 
 form structure in the Norman style, with a graceful 
 spire, and contains 400 sittings, with arrangements for 
 the erection of a gallery, if requisite, for 200 more. In 
 the churchyard are considerable remains of the ancient 
 church. There is a place of worship for members of the 
 Free Church ; also, in the village of Cairney-hill, a meet- 
 ing-house in connexion with the United Presbyterian 
 Synod. The parochial school is attended by about 
 sixty children ; the master has a salary of £34, with a 
 house and garden, and the fees average about £16. In 
 the village is a parochial library containing 250 volumes. 
 Some Roman coins, and fragments of urns, were dis- 
 covered in the parish by the plough about the year 1820 ; 
 and it is supposed from the name of a farm in the 
 parish, called Camps, that there may have been a mili- 
 tary station. 
 
 CARNOUSTIE, a village, and for a time a quoad 
 sacra parish, in the parish of Barry, county of Forfar, 
 2 miles (E.) from Kirktown of Barry; containing 1268 
 inhabitants. This place is on the eastern coast, about 
 three miles north of Buddon Ness at the mouth of the 
 river Tay. For some years past it has been resorted to 
 for bathing, and its smooth, sloping, sandy beach renders 
 it peculiarly adapted to the purpose ; the number of 
 visiters has latterly increased, owing to the facility 
 afforded by the Dundee and Arbroath railway, which 
 passes through. The village itself formed the parish, 
 and the inhabitants, both male and female, are for the 
 most part employed in hand-loom weaving in their own 
 dwellings ; their manufacture is principally brown and 
 white linen, for the markets of Dundee and Arbroath. 
 Carnoustie has lately been made a post-town. It con- 
 tains places of worship for members of the Free Church, 
 the United Presbyterian Synod, and the Synod of United 
 Original Seceders. There are, a subscription school, 
 with a dwelling-house for the teacher attached ; a school 
 in connexion with the Free Church ; a Free Church 
 library, and a savings' bank. In the immediate vicinity 
 of Carnoustie, a name signifying " the cairn of heroes ", 
 are vestiges of a camp, and several tumuli, where it is 
 said the remains were deposited of the Danes who fell 
 under their leader Camus, when vanquished by the 
 Scottish armv commanded by Malcolm II. 
 
 CARNWATH, a parish, in the Upper ward of the 
 county of Lanark ; including the villages of Braehead, 
 Forth, Newbigging, and Wilsontown ; and containing 
 3550 inhabitants, of whom 766 are in the village of 
 Caruwath, 26 miles (S. W.) from Edinburgh. This place 
 is supposed to have derived its name from an ancient
 
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 C A RR 
 
 cairn, situated to the west of the present village, and near 
 a ford {wath in Saxon) across the burn now called Carn- 
 wath, which stream, previously to the construction of 
 the bridges, was passable only here. The castle of Cow- 
 thalley, in the parish, was for many years the baronial 
 residence of the Sommervilles, one of the most opulent 
 and powerful families of the country in the twelfth cen- 
 tury, and of whom William, the first baron, was the firm 
 adherent of Robert Bruce during the disputed succession 
 to the crown. It was burnt in one of those inroads of 
 the English which so frequently occurred ; but at what 
 time, or by whom, it was rebuilt, is not distinctly re- 
 corded. This castle was often the temporary residence 
 of James VI., while pursuing the diversion of hunting, 
 for which the neighbourhood was peculiarly favourable. 
 The foundations only can now be traced, from which it 
 appears to have been a fortress of considerable extent, 
 surrounded by a deep fosse, and accessible by a draw- 
 bridge on the western side. 
 
 The PARISH is about twelve miles in length, from north 
 to south, and about eight miles in breadth, comprising an 
 area of about 3 1 ,* SO acres, of which about one-third are in 
 cultivation, upwards of 20,000 acres uncultivated, about 
 500 acres in wood, and ninety undivided common. Its 
 surface is varied, consisting partly of level and partly of 
 rising grounds, the former having an elevation of 600 
 feet above the sea, and the latter of 1'200 at the highest 
 point i but there are no mountains or detached hills in 
 any part. The principal rivers are the Clyde and the 
 Medwin, which form part of the southern boundary. 
 There are numerous springs of excellent water, affording 
 an abundant supply ; and also some possessing mineral 
 properties, which have not attracted much notice. The 
 only lake of any consideration is Whiteloch, to the west 
 of the village : it covers about thirty acres of ground, 
 and is of great depth in some parts ; the shores on the 
 south and west are richly wooded, and the surrounding 
 scenery is diversified. In one part of the parish the soil 
 is a strong wet clay ; in another, a deep rich loam ; and 
 in other parts, light and gravelly, intermixed with por- 
 tions of moss. The chief crops are barley, oats, potatoes, 
 and turnips, with a little wheat ; the rotation system of 
 husbandry is practised, and bone-dust has been exten- 
 sively introduced as manure, and with much success. 
 Great attention is paid to the management of the dairy, 
 on most of the farms, under the encouragement of the 
 Highland Society of the district ; the cheese made is 
 mostly of the Dunlop kind, and the greater part is sent 
 to Edinburgh. The cattle are of the Ayrshire breed ; 
 there are but comparatively few sheep, and these are of 
 almost every variety. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £14,207. 
 
 The SUBSTRATA are principally coal, ironstone, and 
 limestone, all of which are extensively wrought. The 
 coal and limestone are found in superincumbent strata, 
 on the lands north of the rivulet of Dippool ; the lime- 
 stone occurs at a depth of nearly thirty feet from the 
 surface, in seams about six feet thick, and the coal, under 
 it, in seams of about eighteen inches, wrought for burn- 
 ing the lime. On the other side of the Cleugh burn is a 
 very extensive coal-field, reaching to the northern boun- 
 dary of the parish, and containing an inexhaustible mine : 
 this mine, till within the last fifty or sixty years, was 
 (mly partiiilly explored ; but on the establishment of a 
 company here for the manufacture of iron, a steam-engine 
 195 
 
 was erected for drawing off the water, and mining ope- 
 rations were conducted on a very extended scale. To 
 the west of this district, at Chmpy, is another field of 
 coal, which has also been worked by the company. The 
 ironstone is found in strata of various thickness and qua- 
 lity ; in some parts occurring in the form of tessellated 
 pavement, and in others in small detached masses. 
 
 The village of Carnwath, in the southern part of the 
 parish, is neatly built, and contains several regular streets, 
 with some handsome houses of recent erection; most of 
 the old houses have been much improved in appearance, 
 and the whole has an air of great cheerfulness and com- 
 fort. It is inhabited chiefly by persons employed in 
 weaving for the manufacturers of Glasgow and Paisley. 
 A public library is supported by subscription. A weekly 
 market is held, mostly for the sale of meal and barley ; 
 and there are fairs in July, for cows and horses, and for 
 hiring servants ; in the middle of August, for lambs and 
 young horses ; and in October, and also in February, 
 principally for the hiring of farm-servants. On the day 
 after the August fair, a foot-race and various other sports 
 are celebrated. Great facility of intercourse is afforded 
 by the Caledonian railway. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Lanark, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage 
 of the Lockhart family : the minister's stipend is £250. 
 17. 6., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per an- 
 num. Carnwath church, erected in 1798, and thoroughly 
 repaired in 1833, is a plain neat edifice, adapted for a 
 congregation of about 1100 persons, but almost inacces- 
 sible to a great portion of the population. Chapels in 
 connexicm with the Established Church have been built 
 at Wilsontown and Climpy ; but the latter is fast falling 
 into a state of dilapidation. There is a place of worship 
 for New Light Burghers on the road to Wilsontow'n, and 
 the parish also contains a place of worship in connexion 
 with the Free Church. The parochial school is well con- 
 ducted ; the master has a salary of £34, with £34 fees, 
 and a house and garden. The ancient cairn from which 
 the parish takes its name is of elliptical form, and on the 
 summit is an opening, from which was a descent by a 
 flight of steps to the bottom. It is surrounded by a deep 
 fosse and high mound, and is supposed to have been 
 formed as a place of security in time of war, and for 
 concealment of treasure. The late Sir N. M. Lockhart 
 planted it with hard-wood trees. Among the few other 
 remains of antiquity in the parish is the beautiful aisle of 
 the old church, which was founded in 1386, and was en- 
 dowed and made a collegiate church for a principal and 
 six prebendaries in 1424 by Lord Sommerville, who also 
 connected with it a provision for the maintenance of 
 eight poor aged men. The aisle is in good preservation, 
 and displays some interesting details in the decorated 
 English style. It has been the sepulchral chapel of the 
 Sommerville and Dalziel families, and of the Earls of 
 Carnwath, and is now the burying-place of the family of 
 Lockhart. — See Wilsontown, &c. 
 
 CAROLINE-PLACE, a village, in the parish of St. 
 Martin, county of Perth ; with 99 inhabitants. 
 
 CARRIDEN, a parish, in the county of Linlith- 
 gow, li mile (E.) from Borrowstounness ; containing, 
 with the villages of Blackness, Bridgeness, Cuffabouts, 
 Grangepans, and Muirhouses, 1208 inhabitants. It de- 
 rived its name either from the specific character of the 
 locality, or from its being a military station in connexion 
 
 2 C 2
 
 C A RR 
 
 C ARR 
 
 with the wall of Antonine, which extended iuto this pa- 
 rish, nearly to Carriden House. There are now no re- 
 mains of the wall, but several Roman antiquities have 
 been discovered at different times, including a gold coin 
 of the Emperor Vespasian, a Roman altar without in- 
 scription, a brass sword, several vases, and other relics. 
 Few events of historical importance have occurred in 
 connexion with the parish, except such as are closely 
 identified with the castle of Blackness, which, with the 
 village, is noticed in a separate article. The parish ex- 
 tends for three miles along the southern shore of the 
 Firth of Forth, and is about two miles in breadth, com- 
 prising an area of 2/19 acres, of which 2550 are arable, 
 with some fine tracts of meadow and pasture ; 1 13 wood- 
 laud and plantations ; and the remainder roads and 
 waste. The surface is varied, rising from the shore for 
 nearly a mile in bold undulations, which, as they approach 
 the south-west, near LinHthgow and Borrowstounness, 
 attain an elevation of 519 feet above the sea, and form 
 part of the Irongath hills ; towards the east they gra- 
 dually subside into gentle acclivities. At high water the 
 shore is a narrow margin of sand, gently sloping, and at 
 low water expanding into a considerable tract of soft 
 sleechy matter, a mixture of alluvial soil and sand ; the 
 sandy margin is gradually becoming firmer and more 
 stony, from the encroachment of the sea. 
 
 The soil varies from a light sand to a rich and fertile 
 loam, and, in some parts, to a heavy clay ; the system 
 of agriculture is in a highly improved state, and the 
 crops are grain of all kinds, potatoes, and turnips. Some 
 attention is paid to the rearing of live stock : the sheep, 
 small numbers of which are pastured on the grass-lands, 
 are generally of the black-faced kind ; the cattle are the 
 short-horned, occasionally intermixed with others from 
 the north. The annual value of real property in the pa- 
 rish is £4510. The plantations consist of oak, ash, elm, 
 beech, plane, lime, and larch, for all of which the soil is 
 tolerably well adapted. There are several quarries of 
 freestone for building, and whinstone for the roads, which 
 are worked for use iu the parish. Coal is every where 
 abundant, and has been wrought from a very remote 
 period : within the present century, not less than ten 
 collieries have been opened, at a short distance from each 
 other; but only four, of which two belong to the Duke 
 of Hamilton and two to John Cadell, Esq., of Grange, 
 are at present in operation. Ironstone, also, is wrought 
 to some extent. Carriden House is an ancient mansion 
 with modern additions, situated in grounds tastefully 
 laid out, and embellished with the windings of the Car- 
 riden burn, the banks of which, though of small extent, 
 are beautifully picturesque. At the village of Grange- 
 pans, the making of salt is carried on ; there were for- 
 merly si.x pans, but only four are now in operation. 
 Near Blackness is a valuable field of clay, twelve feet in 
 depth, affording materials for the making of bricks and 
 tiles; the produce amounted in 1834 to 150,000 bricks, 
 200,000 roofing-tiles, and the same number of draining- 
 tiles, since which time the demand has much increased. 
 At Bridgeness is a pier for the shipping of coal and salt, 
 and the landing of lime and manure ; it has been en- 
 larged by the proprietor, and with it is connected a tram- 
 way, about a mile in length, from the collieries. Facility 
 of communication is afforded by the road from Linlithgow 
 to Queensferry, which passes through the south-eastern 
 portion of the parish. On the lands of Capt. Hope, 
 196 
 
 some stake-nets were laid down a few years since ; and 
 more recently similar nets have been laid down from the 
 point of Blackness : the quantity of salmon taken has oc- 
 casionally been considerable. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Linlithgow, synod of Lothian and Tweed- 
 dale : the minister's stipend is £249. I"., with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £25 per annum ; patron, the Duke 
 of Hamilton. The church is a neat plain structure, 
 erected in 1*66, about half a mile from the old church, 
 the burying-ground of which is still used ; it contains 
 458 sittings. The parochial school is well conducted ; 
 the master has a salary of £34, with a house, and 
 an allowance in lieu of garden, and the fees average 
 about £8 per annum. There is a good parochial library. 
 Col. Gardiner, who was killed at the battle of Preston- 
 pans in 1745, was a native of this parish ; Dr. Roebuck, 
 of Sheffield, the original founder of theCarron iron-works, 
 and associated with the celebrated Watt in some of his 
 improvements on the steam-engine, is buried in the 
 churchyard ; and the late Rear-Admiral Sir George J. 
 Hope was proprietor of Carriden House. 
 
 CARRINGTON, or Primrose, a parish, in the 
 county of Edinburgh ; containing, with the villages of 
 Carrington, Thornton, and Whitefaugh, 616 inhabitants, 
 of whom 161 are in the village of Carrington, 6 miles 
 (S. by W.) from Dalkeith. A very large part of the 
 lands, at an early period, was the property of William, 
 Lord Ramsay, who was created Earl of Dalhousie and 
 Lord Carrington in 1633, and from whom the estate was 
 purchased by Sir Archibald Primrose, ancestor of the 
 Earls of Rosebery. James, the successor of Sir Archi- 
 bald, was created Viscount Primrose in 1703. The pa- 
 rish measures about three miles and a half in extreme 
 length, from east to west, and two miles in extreme 
 breadth, from north to south. On the north-east it is 
 bounded by the parish of .Cockpen, on the north and 
 west by Lasswade, on the west by Penicuick, and on the 
 south and east by the parishes of Temple and Borthwick, 
 where the boundary is formed by the South Esk river 
 winding along the romantic and finely-wooded grounds 
 of Rosebery and Arnistou. Numerous rivulets flow 
 through the lands into the South Esk, but none of them 
 are of sufficient importance to require particular descrip- 
 tion. The soil is generally fertile : the number of acres 
 cultivated is about 3360, and in wood about 400. Of 
 late years, the lands have undergone great improvement ; 
 much attention has been given to furrow-draining, and 
 other agricultural improvements have been introduced. 
 There are two proprietors of land, the Earl of Rosebery, 
 and Robert Balfour Wardlaw Ramsay, Esq., the latter 
 of whom is resident in the parish : Robert Dundas, Esq., 
 also, of Arniston in the neighbouring parish of Temple, 
 possesses part of the lands in this parish along the banks 
 of the South Esk, including Carrington mill and lands. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £4617. 
 Whitehill, the seat of Mr. Ramsay, a splendid mansion 
 of recent erection, is situated towards the northern 
 boundary of the parish, in the vicinity of Roslin and 
 Hawthornden. It is in the style of architecture that 
 prevailed in the reign of James VI. ; the building is of 
 noble dimensions, and forms at once a monument of the 
 refined taste of its proprietor, and the eminent architec- 
 tural abilities of Mr. William Burn. The parish is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Dalkeith, synod
 
 C A R R 
 
 CARS 
 
 of Lothian and Tweeddale, and in the patronage of the 
 Earl of Rosebery. The miuister's stipend is about £160, 
 of which about one-third is payable from the exchequer ; 
 with a raanse built in 1756, and a glebe worth about £'20 
 a year. Carrington church, a neat structure, was erected 
 in 1711. The parochial school is well conducted; the 
 master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with a house and gar- 
 den, and the fees average £10 per annum. 
 
 CARRON, a village, and the seat of extensive iron- 
 works, in the parish of Larbert, county of Stirling, 
 2 miles (N. N. vv.) from Falkirk. This village, which 
 is situated on the north bank of the river Carron, about 
 three miles from its influx into the Forth, and has every 
 facility of obtaining water-power, and an easy transit 
 for produce, became in I76O the seat of the iron-works 
 so well known as the most important and extensive in 
 the kingdom. These works were originally established 
 by a company consisting of Messrs. Roebuck, formerly 
 of Sheffield, and afterwards of Birmingham, Mr. Garbet, 
 merchant of the latter place, and Messrs. Cadell, of 
 East Lothian. The company was incorporated by 
 charter, in 1**3, with a capital of £150,000, raised in 
 shares of £'250 each ; and having engaged workmen 
 from Sheffield and Birmingham, it carried on opera- 
 tions under the superintendence of Mr. Gascoigne, son- 
 in-law of Mr. Garbet, on a very extensive scale. The 
 smelting of iron-ore, and the manufacture of cast-iron 
 goods of every description, are carried on to a great 
 extent; about 10,000 tons of pig-iron are annually 
 made, and the manufacture of malleable iron from 
 scraps, which is of more recent introduction, is also ex- 
 tensive. Among the articles produced are cannon, 
 mortars, howitzers, and carronades, which last derived 
 their name from this establishment ; shot, shells, and 
 other implements of war ; steam-engines, sugar-mills, 
 sugar-pans, agricultural implements, with various articles 
 for domestic use, anchors, anvils, and axles. There are 
 four blast furnaces (two of them adapted to the use of 
 the hot blast) and four cupola furnaces, all of which 
 have water-wheels for propelling the machinery. A 
 steam-engine, also, of gigantic power, is incessantly at 
 work, day and night, for the production of blast ; and 
 fifteen air furnaces are in operation. There are mills 
 for boring cylinders and pipes, and the various reser- 
 voirs for the supply of the works cover about 100 acres 
 of ground ; the entire number of persons employed is 
 more than 1000. The foundry is connected with the 
 collieries of Kinnaird and Carron Hall, by a substantial 
 tramway of two lines ; and, by another, with the ship- 
 ping wharf on the Forth and Clyde canal, at Bainsford, 
 whence produce is sent to Glasgow, Liverpool, and 
 other places. Goods for London are sent to Grange- 
 mouth in barges down the river Carron, which is navigable 
 up to the works during the flow of the tide. In 1846 an 
 act was passed for the construction of a line of railway 
 from the Edinburgh and Glasgow line near Polmont to 
 the Scottish Central railway near Larbert, with branches 
 to the Falkirk iron-works and the Carron iron-works. 
 
 CARRONBRIDGE, a village, chiefly in the parish 
 of Morton, and partly in that of Durisdeer, county 
 of Dumfries, '2 miles (N. by W.) from Thornhill ; con- 
 taining 254 inhabitants. This place takes its name 
 from its bridge over the Carron water, which separates 
 the parishes of Durisdeer and Morton. It is situated 
 in the southern extremity of the former parish, and on 
 197 
 
 the western boundary of the latter, a short distance east 
 of the river Nith. 
 
 CARRONSHORE, a village, partly in the pari.sh of 
 Larbert, but chiefly in that of Bothkennar, county 
 of Stirling, 3 miles (N.) from Falkirk ; containing 838 
 inhabitants, of whom 453 are in Bothkennar parish. 
 This village is situated on the north bank of the river 
 Carron, about a mile below the Carron foundry. Iron- 
 stone, limestone, and other materials for the Carron 
 works, are landed here, and also lime and manure for 
 the neighbouring farmers. Goods from the foundry are 
 occasionally shipped here, but the greater part of the 
 produce is shipped at Grangemouth and at the Forth 
 and Clyde canal. There is a dry dock at Carronshore 
 for repairing vessels. The inhabitants are chiefly C(m- 
 nected with the iron-works, in which many of them are 
 employed, and also in the collieries in tbie neighbour- 
 hood, belonging to the company. 
 
 CARSEBURN, a village, in the parish and county 
 of Forfar, I5 mile (N. E.) from the town of Forfar ; 
 containing lOS inhabitants. It lies on the northern ex- 
 tremity of the parish, and on the borders of that of 
 Rescobie. The road from Forfar to Brechin passes a 
 short distance on the east. 
 
 CARSETHORN, a village, in the parish of Kirk- 
 bean, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 13 miles (S.) from 
 Dumfries; containing 157 inhabitants. This place is 
 situated on the shore of the bay of Carse, on the eastern 
 coast of the parish, and is inhabited chiefly by persons 
 engaged in the coasting-trade, in which three small 
 vessels are employed, averaging about fifty tons' bur- 
 then. The exports are mostly grain and other agricul- 
 tural produce, to Glasgow, Cumberland, and Liverpool, 
 and the imports are principally coal. A pier of wood 
 has lately been constructed, for the accommodation 
 of the farmers in the neighbourhood, in sending their 
 live stock by the Liverpool steam-packet, which makes 
 two voyages weekly during the summer, and one during 
 the winter. The bay affords good anchorage to vessels 
 in unfavourable weather ; many from Dumfries, in con- 
 trary winds, take shelter, and others, bound for that 
 port, wait in the bay for the spring tides. 
 
 CARSPHAIRN, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirk- 
 cudbright, 1'2 miles (N.W. by N.) from New Galloway; 
 containing, according to the census of 1S41, 790 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 103 were in the village of Carsphairn. 
 This parish, which was separated from the parishes of 
 Kells and Dairy in 16'27, is supposed to have derived its 
 name from the erection of the church and village on a 
 small level plain, at that time overgrown with fern. 
 The parish is bounded on the east by the river Ken, and 
 on the north and west by Loch Doon and the county of 
 Ayr ; it is nearly circular in form, about ten miles in 
 length, and nearly nine in breadth, comprising about 
 56,000 acres. With the exception of a small tract of 
 arable land around the village, the surface is mountain- 
 ous and hilly. The highest of the mountains is Cairns- 
 muir, which has an elevation of <2696 feet above the 
 sea, commanding an unbounded view in every direction 
 except the south-west, where the prospect is obstructed 
 by the mountain of Carlines Cairn, nearly equal in 
 height. The lower hills are covered with heath ; but 
 those of greater elevation are clothed with verdure to 
 their summits, affording excellent pasturage for sheep 
 and black-cattle. The river Deugh, which descends from
 
 CARS 
 
 CARS 
 
 the northern heights with great rapidity, takes a south- 
 eastern course, and flows into the Ken ; and the parish 
 is also intersected by numerous mountain streams, some 
 of which abound with trout. For the most part the 
 scenery is wild, with few old trees, and but very small 
 patches of modern plantations. The lands are principally 
 sheep-walks, which have been improved by surface- 
 draining, and the parish is almost entirely pastoral. 
 About 30,000 sheep of the black-faced breed are regu- 
 larly pastured, and a very considerable number of cattle 
 of the Highland breed are kept during the winter, and 
 in summer sent to the English markets. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £5414. 
 
 The substrata are chiefly greywacke and granite. A 
 rich vein of lead-ore has been discovered on the lands 
 of the Honourable Col. M. Cathcart, who has spared no 
 e.xpense in bringing it into successful operation, for 
 which purpose he has employed a number of miners, 
 chiefly from Wanlockhead and Leadhills. Ironstone 
 has also been found on the same estate. Buildings have 
 been erected for crushing, washing, and smelting the 
 lead-ore, on the most approved plans, and for separating 
 the silver from the lead, under the superintendence of 
 skilful overseers. Cottages for the workmen have been 
 built on the spot, with a schoolmaster's house, and 
 spacious schoolroom for the instruction of their chil- 
 dren ; and the proprietor gives a liberal salary to the 
 master and mistress. Since the last census, the popu- 
 lation of the parish has increased from 790 to not less 
 than 1000, owing to the success of the lead-mining 
 works. There is a post-office, a branch of that of Ayr, 
 and facility of communication is afforded by the road 
 from Ayr to Dumfries and Kirkcudbright. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery 
 of Kirkcudbright and synod of Galloway. The minister's 
 stipend is £182. 10., with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £27 per annum ; patrons, the Crown and the Forbes 
 family of Callendar. Carsphairn church, which is nearly 
 in the centre of the parish, is a plain structure, erected 
 within the last twenty or thirty years, and containing 400 
 sittings, to which Col. Cathcart has added a gallery for 
 the accommodation of his miners. The parochial school 
 is well conducted ; the master has a salary of £34, with a 
 house and garden, also the interest of £500 bequeathed 
 by the late Mr. McAdam of Castle-dykes, and the fees 
 average about £15. The poor have the proceeds of 
 various bequests amounting to £800, of which £500 
 were left by Mr. McAdam. The chief remains of anti- 
 quity are cairns, in some of w-hich, on their removal, 
 stones in the form of coffins were found, containing 
 human bones ; there are also remains of a Druidical 
 circle. The late Dr. Jackson, professor of natural philo- 
 sophy in the university of St. Andrew's, was a native of 
 the place. 
 
 CARSTAIRS, a parish, in the Upper ward of the 
 county of L.4NARK ; including the village of Ravens- 
 truther, and containing 950 inhabitants, of whom 350 
 are in the village of Carstairs, 4^ miles (E. by S.) from 
 Lanark. The name is most probablj' derived from the 
 ■word Car, or Caer, signifying " a fort", and stair, or 
 stairs, " a possession"; descriptive of an estate or pos- 
 session in a fortified place. The ancient occupation of 
 the district by the Romans is evinced by many remains 
 of antiquity, such as coins, baths, &c., but chiefly by 
 the military station called Castle-dykes, and a Roman 
 198 
 
 camp on the farm of Corbie Hall. Castle-dykes is situ- 
 ated on the right bank of the river Clyde, the southern 
 boundary of the parish ; and from it a road ran across 
 Clydesdale, passing the Clyde near Lanark, and run- 
 ning over Stonebyre hill, after which it crossed the Ne- 
 than. A road to and from Corbie has been distinctly 
 traced for many miles ; and from the concurrent opi- 
 nions of antiquaries, this station is identified with the 
 ancient Coria, a town of the Dcnnnii, through which ran 
 the great road from Carlisle to the wall of Antoninus. 
 In the twelfth century, the manor and church belonged 
 to the Bishop of Glasgow, whose right was confirmed 
 by bulls from several popes. After the death of Alex- 
 ander III., Bishop Wishart, with the consent of Edward 
 I. of England, who had come to the north to settle the 
 dispute between Bruce and Baliol, built a stone castle 
 near the church ; and the manor and parish continued 
 the property of the see of Glasgow till the Reformation. 
 
 The PARISH, which is of an oblong form, is six miles 
 in length, from north to south, and its average breadth 
 is about three miles. It contains 11,840 acres. The 
 surface is irregular, and is conspicuously marked in 
 some parts by sand-knoUs, which rise from fifteen to 
 sixty feet above the general level, and inclose numerous 
 mosses, formed from old woods, vegetable remains car- 
 ried thither by winds, and the decomposition of plants, 
 with an accumulation of stagnant water. The southern 
 part is picturesque and beautiful, and ornamented by 
 the expansive stream of the Clyde, the banks of which 
 are enriched with fine pasture. On a slope embosomed 
 in forest scenery, and surrounded with plantations, 
 lawns, and shrubberies, stands the magnificent structure 
 of Carstairs House, the approach from which to the 
 village furnishes one of the most interesting prospects 
 in this part of the country. The village itself is remark- 
 able for its neatness, and for the taste exhibited in its 
 little gardens. The river Mouse flows in a western di- 
 rection through the centre of the parish, amidst dreary 
 tracts of moss, among which it forms many deep pools; 
 trout, pike, and various other kinds of fish are taken by 
 angling. 
 
 Near the Clyde the soil is an alluvial deposit, bear- 
 ing very superior crops. Between this and the passage 
 of the Mouse is a continuous bed of sandy earth, chiefly 
 in the form of knolls, on a subsoil of sand and stones ; 
 and beyond the Mouse, the soil in the western district is 
 clayey, and in the eastern chiefly a flat moss. The num- 
 ber of acres cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, is 9936; 
 in waste or pasture, 1509 ; and in wood and plantation, 
 400 : of those which are waste, 500 are supposed to be 
 capable of profitable cultivation. The produce consists 
 of oats, barley, potatoes, turnips, and hay ; the cattle 
 are of the Ayrshire kind : all the modern improvements 
 in agriculture have been adopted, and the growth of 
 turnips has been particularly attended to. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £6465. The pre- 
 vailing rock is grey sandstone ; there are considerable 
 quantities of whinstone, and some limestone, and in the 
 north-west is a bed of fine clay, near which a tile-work 
 has been erected, where drain-tiles are made. The road 
 from Lanark to Edinburgh, by Carnwath, and also that 
 by Wilsontown, and the road from Glasgow to Peebles, 
 all run through the parish ; as also does the Caledonian 
 railway, which affords great facility of intercourse. Car- 
 stairs is within the bounds of the presbytery of Lanark
 
 CAST 
 
 CAST 
 
 and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; patron, Henry Mon- 
 teith, Esq. The minister's stipend is about £234, and 
 there is a manse, a well-built structure, with a glebe of 
 the annual value of £35. The church, which was built 
 in 1794, is situated in the centre of the village, on an 
 eminence ; it has a handsome spire, and contains 430 
 sittings. There is a parochial school, in which the 
 classics, practical mathematics, and all the usual 
 branches of education are taught ; the master has the 
 maximum salary, with a house and garden, a bequest of 
 £1. 10. a year, and £27. 13. fees. 
 
 CARTLAND, a village, in the parish of Lanark, 
 Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 2 miles (N. W.) 
 from Lanark ; containing 1 12 inhabitants. It is situ- 
 ated in the north-western part of the parish, and to the 
 west of the high road between Lanark and Carluke. 
 In the village is a small school, to the master of which 
 the heritors allow £5 per annum, with a house and 
 garden ; his fees are about £15. The romantic rocks 
 called Cartland Crags are in this vicinity ; they form a 
 deep chasm, supposed to be the effect of an earthquake, 
 and through which the Mouse water finds its way to the 
 Clyde. A bridge of three arches is thrown across the 
 chasm, which is of considerable height ; and below is an 
 old narrow bridge with a semicircular arch, said to be of 
 Roman structure. The scenery of the place is finely de- 
 scribed in Miss Porter's well-known story of the Scottish 
 Chiefs. 
 
 CARTSDYKE, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in the 
 East parish of Greenock, burgh of Greenock, Lower 
 ward of the county of Renfrew; containing 3651 in- 
 habitants. This place is situated on the Firth of Clyde, 
 and adjoins the town of Greenock, of which it has be- 
 come a suburb, on the east side. It is also called Craw- 
 furdsdyke, from the erection of a small quay by its 
 proprietor, Thomas Crawfurd, Esq., who obtained from 
 Charles I. a charter erecting his lands here into a burgh 
 of barony. There is a good roadstead, in which ships 
 ride at anchor, and the place has two or three small 
 quays : it was of considerable importance for shipping, 
 before the town of Greenock existed. A mechanics' 
 library here contains nearly 1500 volumes. The parish 
 was separated from Greenock in 1839, for ecclesiastical 
 purposes, and was in the presbytery of Greenock and 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The church, originally in 
 connexion with the Secession Synod, was rebuilt on the 
 same site in 1828, at a cost, including a school-house, 
 of £1052, defrayed by private subscription; it passed 
 from the Established Church to the Free Church, at the 
 time of the Disruption, and contains 906 sittings. Be- 
 sides the school attached to the church, there are several 
 other schools, affording instruction to a considerable 
 number of children. — See Greenock. 
 
 CASTLE, a village, in the parish of New Cumnock, 
 district of Kyle, county of Ayr ; containing 155 inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 CASTLECARY, a village, in the parish of Falkirk, 
 county of Stirling, 8 miles (W. S. W.) from Falkirk. 
 This hamlet, which is situated at the wc ' .rn extremity 
 of the parish, and on the bank of the lorth and Clyde 
 canal, takes its name from an ancient castle on the line 
 of the Roman road, of which the tower, now inhabited 
 by the Earl of Zetland's forester, is the only remaining 
 portion. On the bank of the canal is a small landing- 
 place for goods and passengers ; and in the immediate 
 199 
 
 vicinity are some saw-mills driven by water, in which 
 about sixteen persons are employed, and some freestone 
 quarries which are extensively wrought. Great facility 
 of intercourse is afforded by the Edinburgh and Glasgow, 
 the Caledonian, and the Scottish-Central railways. — See 
 Falkirk. 
 
 CASTLE-DOUGLAS, a 
 market-town and burgh of 
 barony, in the parish of Kel- 
 TON, stewartry of Kirkcud- 
 bright, 10 miles (N. N. E.) 
 from Kirkcudbright, and 89 
 (S. S. W.) from Edinburgh ; 
 containing 1848 inhabitants. 
 This place, which is situated 
 on a gentle acclivity rising 
 from the margin of Loch 
 Carlinwark, originally con- 
 sisted only of a few cottages 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 called "Causeway End", and subsequently "Carlin- 
 wark". It derives its present name from the ancient 
 castle of Threave, formerly the baronial seat of the 
 Douglases, and the last of the numerous fortresses which 
 held out for that family, about the middle of the fifteenth 
 century. The rapid increase of the present town, and 
 its former manufacturing importance, arose from the 
 introduction of the cotton manufacture by its proprietor, 
 Sir William Douglas. This source of employment con- 
 tinued for a time, and added greatly to its population ; 
 but the subsequent introduction of the power-loom 
 rendered it impracticable to carry on the works with 
 advantage, in a locality destitute of an adequate supply 
 either of coal or of water, and the manufacture was con- 
 sequently abandoned. The place, notwithstanding, from 
 its situation in the centre of the county, and its facilities 
 of intercourse, continued to acquire an increasing degree 
 of agricultural and commercial importance ; and became, 
 in a very short time, the principal mart of the surround- 
 ing districts. 
 
 The TOWN is situated on the great road from Carlisle 
 to Portpatrick, and consists of several spacious streets, 
 intersecting each other at right angles, and forming 
 handsome squares, the internal areas of which are laid 
 out in gardens. The houses are well built ; and there 
 are several villas in the immediate vicinity, which abounds 
 with pleasing scenery. Gas was introduced into the town 
 by a company in February 1844. A public library is 
 supported, containing about 1200 volumes : and there is 
 also a circulating library. The shops are remarkably ele- 
 gant, and are well stored with various kinds of merchan- 
 dise ; the post-office is one of the most important in the 
 south of Scotland, and has fourteen branch offices under 
 its control, all of which have a daily delivery. There 
 are three branch banks in the town, namely, of the 
 British Linen Company, the National Bank, and the 
 Bank of Scotland. A savings' bank was opened in 184 1, 
 and has now deposits to a considerable amount. The 
 market is on Monday, and is abundantly supplied with 
 grain of all kinds, and other agricultural produce ; large 
 numbers of black-cattle, sheep, and pigs are constantly 
 exposed to sale. Fairs are held on the 1 1th of February 
 if on Monday, otherwise on the Monday following, for 
 horses ; on the 23rd of March, for horses and for hiring 
 servants ; the first Monday in April, for hogs ; the Mon- 
 day before the second Friday in August, for lambs ; the
 
 CAST 
 
 CAST 
 
 23rd of September, for horses and for hiring servants ; 
 and the Monday after the 13th of November (O. S.), for 
 horses. The fairs were formerly held at Kelton Hill, 
 from which place they were all removed to the town, 
 with the exception of one still held there, in June. 
 
 In 1790 the town was erected into a burgh of barony 
 by a royal charter, which was confirmed and extended 
 by a charter dated ISSjg, and under which the govern- 
 ment was vested in a provost, two bailies, and seven 
 councillors, who are elected triennially, on the first 
 Wednesday in September. The magistrates, whose 
 jurisdiction extends over the whole of the burgh, hold 
 courts for the adjudication of civil causes to any amount 
 every Tuesday, and for cases of petty delinquency, and 
 matters connected with the police, as occasion may re- 
 quire ; they are assisted by the town-clerk, who acts as 
 assessor. The number of burgesses is about ninety, and 
 their qualification is by a perpetual feu right, or by 
 having a lease, for a hundred years, of a piece of ground 
 within the burgh on which a house has been built. The 
 town-house is a modern building, with a tower and a 
 clock, and was presented to the burgh by the late Sir 
 William Douglas. There is a place of worship for Re- 
 formed Presbyterians ; and the recent seceders from the 
 Establishment have erected a Free church here. — See 
 Kelton. 
 
 CASTLETON, a parish, in the district of Melrose, 
 county of Roxburgh; containing 2135 inhabitants, of 
 whom 1030 are in the village of New Castleton, 9 miles 
 (E. byN.) from Langholm. This place derived its name 
 from an ancient castle here, which stood on the east 
 bank of the Liddel, upon a perpendicular precipice 
 upwards of 100 feet in height, and was defended on the 
 west and south by two strong ramparts, and a deep fosse, 
 which are still entire. The parish was anciently denomi- 
 nated Liddesdale, from the river, which runs through it 
 from the north-cast to the south. Camps, forts, cairns, 
 and castles remain in various places ; and on account 
 of its situation directly along the English border, it was 
 formerly the scene of violent contentions. Hermitage 
 Castle, a building about 100 feet square, protected by a 
 strong rampart and ditch, and standing on the bank of 
 a river of the same name, is said to have been built by 
 Sir Ranulph de Soules, warden of the Border in the 
 reign of David I. One of his descendants. Lord Soules, 
 and also governor of the castle, according to the current 
 tradition, was burnt near the site of a Druidical temple, 
 on a hill here, called Nine-Stone Ridge ; and in 1342, 
 Sir Alexander Ramsay of Dalhousie was starved to death 
 in the castle by Sir William Douglas, lord of Liddesdale. 
 The castle was visited in 1561 by Mary, Queen of Scots, 
 who travelled from, and returned to, Jedburgh in the 
 same day, over mountains, and through marshes almost 
 impassable. Near it stood the chapel of Hermitage, 
 now a ruin, in the middle of a burying-ground, which is 
 still in use, and in the wall of which is fixed the ancient 
 font. The lauds of Liddesdale were annexed to the crown 
 in 1540, by act of parliament, and in 1648 were granted 
 to Francis, Earl of Buccleuch, whose descendant, in I747, 
 upon the abolition of heritable jurisdictions, was allowed 
 £600 as a compensation for the regality. In January 
 1649 Castleton kirk sustained considerable injury from 
 the adherents of Cromwell. 
 
 The PARISH is the largest and most southern in the 
 county, measuring about eighteen miles long and twelve 
 200 
 
 broad, and containing 65,200 acres. It is bounded on 
 the east by Northumberland, and on the south-east by 
 Cumberland : the southern extremity is nearly of tri- 
 angular form. The surface is diversified in a high de- 
 gree ; the lower part of the parish is hilly, and in the 
 upper part the country is entirely mountainous, rising 
 abruptly in many instances to a great elevation, and 
 affording excellent pasture for numerous flocks of sheep. 
 The principal mountains are Greatmoor, Millenwood 
 Fell, Tudhope, Windhead, and Tinnis Hill, which last is 
 seen as a landmark from the Solway Firth and Irish Sea: 
 some of these rise as much as 2000 feet above the level 
 of the sea, and give a wild and romantic appearance to 
 parts of the parish. The part inhabited consists of two 
 valleys, one of which, bordering on the river Hermitage, 
 is about ten miles long, from the source of that stream 
 until it loses itself in the Liddel; the banks of the water 
 are clothed with natural wood, which, with the scenery 
 generally, enlivened by the beautiful current, exhibits a 
 rural picture of the most attractive kind. The other 
 valley is that lying along the sides of the Liddel, which 
 river, as well as the Tyne, rises near the head of the pa- 
 rish, on the north-east. The Liddel runs directly west 
 for a few miles, after which it turns to the south ; the 
 Tyne takes its course to the east, slowly winding through 
 Northumberland. The country through which the former 
 passes is wild, bleak, and mountainous, and for ten miles 
 the banks are entirely naked ; where it is joined by the 
 Hermitage, however, they are covered with trees, and 
 flourishing plantations there constitute prominent fea- 
 tures in the improving and beautiful landscape. In 
 addition to these streams are the Tinnis, Blackburn, 
 Tweeden, Kershope (which divides the two kingdoms), 
 and several others, all famed for their supply of trout. 
 There are numerous mineral springs, and several beauti- 
 ful cascades and waterfalls on the various streams. 
 
 The SOIL varies considerably, that in the neighbour- 
 hood of the rivers being soft and rich, while the higher 
 grounds exhibit a poorer mould ; in some parts it is of 
 a mossy character. Most of the arable land lies on the 
 banks of the rivers ; wheat of average quality has been 
 produced, but the ordinary crops are barley, oats, 
 potatoes, and turnips. The mossy ground is esteemed 
 for pasturing black-cattle and sheep ; the cattle are 
 chiefly of the Galloway, Dutch, and Highland kinds, 
 many of which last are brought by the farmers from the 
 Falkirk and Doune markets, and supported during the 
 winter upon coarse hay and other fodder, then fattened 
 on the pastures, and sold towards the end of summer. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £12,126. 
 Several plantations have been made of Scotch fir, spruce, 
 larch, oak, ash, and beech, which are for the most part 
 in a flourishing condition ; and the natural wood consists 
 of some of the same species, with a considerable quantity 
 of alder. There is a large supply of limestone of various 
 qualities, which is wrought to a great extent on the 
 estates of Lariston and Thorlieshope : coal is obtained on 
 the estate of Liddelbank ; and there are quarries of free- 
 stone in every direction, except at the head of Hermitage, 
 where is nothing but blue whinstone. 
 
 The village, the building of which was commenced in 
 1*93, by the Duke of Buccleuch, consists principally of 
 two streets, named the Liddel and the Hermitage. 
 Several other streets cross these at right angles, and in 
 the centre is a market-place called Douglas-square, the
 
 CAST 
 
 C ATH 
 
 buildings round which consist of two stories. Tliere are 
 also smaller squares near each extremity of the main 
 street. Fairs for the sale of sheep are held twice a j'ear, 
 and three for hiring servants in April, May, and No- 
 vember, respectively ; and the Eskdale and Liddesdale 
 Farmers' Association meet once in every three years at 
 Castleton. Sheriff circuit small-debt courts, for the re- 
 covery of sums not exceeding £8. 6. 8., are holden in 
 the village on the first Tuesday of April, of August, and 
 November. Ecclesiastically the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Langholm, synod of Dum- 
 fries, and the patronage is exercised by the Duke of 
 Buccleuch ; the minister's stipend is £250, with a good 
 manse, and a glebe of twenty-five acres. Castleton 
 church, built in 1808, accommodates between 600 and 
 700 persons, and occupies a convenient situation, at the 
 junction of the Liddel and the Hermitage. The United 
 Presbyterian Synod have a place of worship. There is 
 one principal parochial school, with three auxiliaries : 
 the salaries of the masters amount to £51, of which the 
 bead master receives £30, leaving the remaining sum to 
 be equally divided among the other teachers ; the fees 
 of the four schools are about £"0. A good subscription 
 library has also been established in the village. Dr. 
 Armstrong, author of the Art of Preserving Health, was 
 a native of Castleton. 
 
 CASTLETOWN, a village, in the parish of Crathie 
 and Braemar, district of Kincardine O'Neil, county 
 of Aberdeen, 57 miles (W.) from Aberdeen ; containing 
 124 inhabitants. This village is situated on the southern 
 bank of the Dee, and on the great military road leading 
 from Blairgowrie to Fort George and Aberdeen. It is 
 usually termed Castletown of Braemar. The ancient 
 castle of Braemar, from which the village has its name, 
 standing on a gentle acclivity below the village, in a pass 
 between two hills, was formerly the seat of the Earls of 
 Mar, who possessed the neighbouring lands, and was 
 converted after the Revolution into a garrison for the 
 intimidation of the Highland chieftains. It was leased 
 to government in 1748, for ninety-nine years, for bar- 
 racks, and was afterwards occasionally occupied by 
 soldiers. The spot is shewn here where, in 1715, the 
 Earl of Mar raised the standard of the Pretender ; and 
 about a mile and a half down the valley is a steep rock 
 called " Charters' Chests ", so named from a cave in it, 
 of difficult access, where the charters which pertained to 
 the Invercauld property were deposited during the re- 
 bellion of the earl. There is a post-office, with a daily 
 post to and from Aberdeen ; and three fairs are held 
 annually, two of them chiefly for cattle, and the other for 
 cattle and sheep. An ordained missionary, supported by 
 the Royal Bounty, regularly officiates in this district; 
 there is also a chapel for Roman Catholics. Near the 
 village are the ruins of an old castle said to have been 
 built as a hunting-seat for King Malcolm Canmore, who 
 erected a bridge here over the Cluny water, which stream 
 falls into the Dee at a short distance to the north. 
 
 CASTLETOWN, a village, in the parish of Olrick, 
 county of Caithness, 5 miles (E. by S.) from Thurso; 
 containing 477 inhabitants. This is a remarkably neat 
 and thriving village, situated near the south coast of 
 Dunnet bay. It owes its advancing prosperity to its 
 proximity to the valuable quarries of Castlehill, of which 
 the stone is known by the name of Caithness paveraeut. 
 A church has been built at the east end of the village, in 
 Vol. I.— 201 
 
 which, also, is the parochial school ; and a female school 
 has been partially endowed. 
 
 CATHCART, a parish, partly in the Lower ward of 
 the county of Lanark, but chiefly in the Upper ward of 
 the county of Renfrew ; including the villages of New 
 and Old Cathcart, Clarkston, Crossbill, Crossmyloof, 
 Hanginshavv, Langside, Millbridge, and Netherlee ; and 
 containing 2349 inhabitants, of whom 174 are in Old 
 Cathcart, 3 miles (S.) from Glasgow. This place, which 
 is supposed to have derived its name, of Celtic origin, 
 from the situation of its castle on the river Cart, is of 
 remote antiquity. It appears at an early period to have 
 formed part of the possessions of Walter, lord high 
 steward of Scotland, who in 1160 granted the church, 
 together with all its dependencies, to the abbey of Paisley, 
 which he had founded. The remainder of the lands 
 became the property of the ancient family of Cathcart, 
 of whom Sir Alan, in 1447, was raised to the peerage by 
 James II. under the title of Lord Cathcart ; the estates 
 were alienated by Alan, the third lord, in 1546, and then 
 belonged to the Semples for several generations. Of the 
 Cathcart family, who have again become owners of the 
 castle, three was killed in the battle of Flodden Field in 
 1513, and another in the battle of Pinkie in 154* ; the 
 fourth Lord Cathcart distinguished himself at the battle 
 of Langside, and the eighth lord, as colonel of the Scots 
 Greys, contributed to the victory obtained over the rebel 
 army at Sheriffmuir. William, the tenth lord, who com- 
 manded the British forces at the taking of Copenhagen 
 in 1807, was on that occasion created Viscount Cathcart, 
 and in 1814 Earl Cathcart : he died in 1843. 
 
 The PARISH, which is about five miles in length, and 
 from one and a half to two miles in breadth, is bounded 
 on the north and east by the county of Lanark. Its 
 surface is beautifully diversified with gentle undulations, 
 and detached hills of greater elevation, cultivated to their 
 summits ; and the lands are intersected with the wind- 
 ings of the river Cart, in some parts flowing with gentle 
 course through verdant meadows, and in others forcing 
 its way between rugged and precipitous banks thickly 
 wooded. The number of acres is 2950, of which, with 
 the exception of about 90 in woodland and plantations, 
 and about 60 in lawns and pleasure-grounds, the whole 
 is arable and in cultivation. In general the soil is fer- 
 tile : the system of agriculture has been greatly improved ; 
 the rotation plan of husbandry is prevalent, and the 
 lands have been rendered more productive by furrow- 
 draining. The chief crops are oats, potatoes, wheat, and 
 hay, in regular succession, for which ready sale is found 
 in the markets of Glasgow and other towns. The an- 
 nual value of real property in the parish is £8925. The 
 substratum is part of the coal basin which extends from 
 the hills of Campsie, on the north, to those of Cathkin, 
 on the south ; there are several coal-mines in the parish, 
 but none at present in operation. Limestone and free- 
 stone are also abundant, and a large quarry of the latter 
 at Crossbill, is extensively wrought. In the channel of 
 the Cart are numerous minerals, of which a valuable 
 collection was presented by Lord Greenock, now Earl 
 Cathcart, to the Ilunterian museum of Glasgow. Cart- 
 side Cottage, the residence of Earl Cathcart, is a hand- 
 some seat, near the remains of the ancient castle, which, 
 from its strength, has resisted all attempts to remove it, 
 and still forms an interesting ruin, defended on two 
 sides by the precipitous banks of the river. Aikenhead 
 
 2 D
 
 C AT R 
 
 C ATR 
 
 is also a handsome aud spacious mansion, consisting of 
 a centre and two wings, finely situated, and surrounded 
 by a large demesne tastefully embellished with wood and 
 plantations. The principal manufacture is hand-loom 
 weaving, in which about one hundred families are em- 
 ployed at their own dwellings for the manufacturers of 
 Glasgow and Paisley. On the river Cart is an extensive 
 paper-mill, originally established by a French refugee in 
 168.5, and on the same stream is a mill for the manufac- 
 ture of snuff. There are also extensive corn-mills ; and 
 on the river, just before it enters the parish of Eastwood, 
 is a bleachfield, at Newlands, but the persons employed 
 in it mostly belong to Pollockshaws. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Glasgow, synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr : the minister's stipend is £276, with a manse, 
 built in 1818, and a glebe valued at £16. 10. per annum; 
 patron, John Gordon, Esq. Cathcart old church, which 
 contained only 150 sittings, and was greatly dilapidated, 
 was taken down, and the present church erected, in the 
 year ISSS, at an expense of £2500, by the heritors ; it is 
 a handsome structure in the later English style, with 
 a square embattled tower, and contains 1000 sittings. 
 The parochial school was built in 1830, at a cost of 
 £500 ; the master has a salary of £30, with a house and 
 garden, and the fees average about £15. The Cathcart 
 Club, which holds its annual meetings in Glasgow, 
 generally distributes about £25 per annum among such 
 of the needy families in the parish as do not apply for 
 parochial aid. On the hill of Langside are some remains 
 of what is supposed to have been a Roman camp, and 
 which, from its having been occupied by Mary, Queen 
 of Scots, while an anxious spectator of the battle of 
 Langside, is called by the people Queen Mary's camp. 
 A Roman vase of elegant workmanship was discovered 
 about the commencement of the present century, by the 
 late minister of the parish, when digging for the founda- 
 tion of a house at 'Wood-End, and is now in the Hunte- 
 rian museum. On the farm of Overlee, on the north 
 bank of the Cart, numerous subterranean buildings have 
 been found ; the sides were from four to five feet in 
 length, faced with undressed stone, and in the floors, 
 which were paved with thin flags, were excavations as if for 
 fire-places, in which ashes were found. The Rev. Prin- 
 cipal Carstairs was a native of the parish, of which his 
 father was minister. — See Clarkston, Langside, &c. 
 
 CATHCART, NEW, a village, in the parish of Cath- 
 cart, county of Renfrew, ^ a mile (W.) from Old 
 Cathcart ; containing 280 inhabitants. This village is 
 of very modern date, and is indebted for its origin to the 
 opening of a new line of road into the county of Ayr, 
 which is carried over the river Cart, near this place, by 
 a neat bridge, erected in 1800. The inhabitants were 
 greatly increased in number by the opening of a coal- 
 mine in the immediate vicinity, in which the greater 
 portion of them were employed ; but this work has been 
 suspended in its operation. 
 
 CATRINE, a manufacturing village, and formerly a 
 quoad sacra parish, in the parish of Sorn, district of 
 Kyle, county of Ayr, 25 miles (E. by S.) from Mauch- 
 llne; containing 2659 inhabitants. This place, which, 
 prior to the year 17S6, contained only the two families 
 of the miller and the blacksmith of the parish, is indebted 
 both for its origin and progress to the establishment of 
 the cotton manufacture, at that time, by the late Claud 
 202 
 
 Alexander, Esq., of Ballochmyle, and David Dale, Esq., 
 a merchant of Glasgow. The works, after being carried 
 on for a few years, were purchased from the original 
 proprietors by Messrs. Finlay and Company, of Glasgow, 
 who enlarged the concern, and brought it to its present 
 flourishing condition. The buildings are spacious, and 
 replete with machinery of every kind. Two water- 
 wheels, each fifty feet in diameter, estimated at 200-horse 
 power, have been erected for giving motion to the 
 machinery ; and two steam-engines, of sixty-horse power 
 each, have been added, to secure the continuance of the 
 work under any failure of water. In the bleaching- 
 works, also, the requisite machinery is propelled by a 
 water-wheel of thirty-two feet diameter, and by a steam- 
 engine of twenty-eight horse power. Every process of 
 the cotton manufacture is carried on, with the utmost 
 regularity ; the raw material sent from Glasgow is spun, 
 woven, bleached, and finished, either for home consump- 
 tion, or for exportation to foreign markets. In the 
 bleaching- works, which were established in 1824, in ad- 
 dition to the goods produced in the cotton factory of 
 this place, all the cloth manufactured at the other works 
 of the company are bleached ; the process is carried on 
 within the walls, at all seasons of the year, aud from 
 150 to 200 acres of land, which would be requisite for 
 the exclusive purpose of a bleachfield, are thus appropri- 
 ated to agricultural uses. The number of persons em- 
 ployed in both the works is 960. 
 
 The village, which alone constituted the parish, is 
 pleasantly situated in an extensive and picturesque vale, 
 through which the river Ayr pursues its winding course, 
 and is neatly built on the north bank of the river, over 
 which is a handsome stone bridge. It is lighted with 
 gas, from a work belonging to the inhabitants, which is 
 considered by competent judges the best constructed of 
 any in Ayrshire, both in regard to the quality of the gas 
 manufactured, and the economy of its production. There 
 are two public libraries, containing each a collection of 
 from 600 to 700 volumes, and supported by subscribers j 
 a philosophical library 3 and a library in connexion with 
 a Sunday school. Many of the inhabitants are employed 
 in hand-loom weaving for the manufacturers of Glasgow 
 and Paisley, and several in the various trades requisite 
 for the supply of the population; a sub-post has been 
 established, and there is an excellent market on Saturday 
 for provisions of all kinds. The ecclesiastical parish was 
 in the presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. 
 A chapel of ease was built by Mr. Alexander, in 1792, at 
 an expense of £1000 ; and was purchased sixteen years 
 ago by the feuars of the village, who are bound by their 
 feu disposition to erect a church, and inclose a piece of 
 land for a burying-ground. It is a substantial edifice, 
 and, by the addition of galleries about twelve years since, 
 is adapted for a congregation of 11 60 persons. A con- 
 venient place of worship has been built for members of 
 the Free Church, which is calculated to contain 978 
 persons ; and there is also a neat church belonging to 
 the United Presbyterian Synod, affording accommodation 
 for 650. Here are three public schools, and a school for 
 the young persons employed at the works is supported 
 by the proprietors. A friendly society was established 
 in 1829 ; it has a fund of £300, and has proved very 
 beneficial in obviating necessity for parochial aid. In 
 1834 a female society was estatjlished, under the act of 
 George IV. and 'William IV. ; this possesses a fund of
 
 CAVE 
 
 CAVE 
 
 £120, and has been of great benefit to many families. 
 The late Dugald Stewart, the eminent professor of moral 
 philosophy at Edinburgh, had a summer residence here, 
 which still remains in the possession of the family, but 
 is let to a tenant, his son Colonel Stewart having built 
 an elegant mansion about a mile distant from the village, 
 where he resides. 
 
 CATTERLINE, a village, in the parish of Kinneff 
 and Catterline, county of Kincardine, 5 miles (N. 
 by E.) from Stonehaven ; containing 79 inhabitants. 
 This village is situated on the eastern coast, and chiefly 
 inhabited by fishers, who have two boats, and take cod, 
 ling, skate, haddock, and various kinds of shell-fish. A 
 small harbour has been formed by the erection of a pier, 
 at the expense of Viscount Arbuthnott, which affords 
 facilities for the landing of coal, lime, and other neces- 
 sary supplies ; and from the natural advantages of the 
 situation, there is great probability of its further exten- 
 sion. A coast-guard station has also been established 
 here. 
 
 CAULDHAME, a hamlet, in the parish of Kippen, 
 county of Pertr ; containing 70 inhabitants. 
 
 CAUSEWAYHEAD, a village, in the parish of 
 LoGiE, counties of Clackmannan and Stirling, 1 
 mile (N. by E.) from Stirling. It takes its name from 
 its situation, being the head of the long causeway of 
 Stirling. In the neighbourhood is a sandstone quarry, 
 the material of which is used for ordinary purposes. 
 
 CAUSEYSIDE, a village, in the jparish of Old 
 MoNKLAND, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; 
 containing 367 inhabitants. 
 
 CAVA, a small islet, in the parish of Orphir, 
 county of Orkney ; containing 23 inhabitants. It is 
 situated about two miles south from Pomona, and is 
 about a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in breadth. 
 There is a ruinous chapel here, and around it a church- 
 yard. 
 
 CAVERS, a parish, in the district of Hawick, 
 county of RoxnuRGH, 2 miles (N. E. by E.) from Hawick ; 
 containing, with the village of Denholm, 1709 inhabit- 
 ants. The name of this place is supposed to be derived 
 from a compound British v;ord signifying "a short field" 
 or " inclosure," applied originally to a part of the parish. 
 There are several camps of Roman and Saxon origin, 
 and also a defence-ditch, about seven miles long, con- 
 structed by the Picts, all indicating the character of 
 those who in remote antiquity occupied or vi.sited the 
 locality ; but no information remains as to any transac- 
 tions of so distant a period. The lands were granted in 
 1398 with the sheriffdom of Roxburghshire to George, 
 Earl of Angus, and in 1402 came to Isabel, Countess of 
 Mar, who, without consent of the king, transferred them 
 to the Earl of Douglas, then a prisoner in England. 
 This neglect of the royal consent appears to have viti- 
 ated the assignment, and the property consequently es- 
 cheated to the king, Robert III., who in 1405 gave it 
 to Sir David Fleming, of Biggar, as a reward f()r his 
 loyalty and eminent services. Sir David, a short time 
 afterwards, was assassinated by James, son of Archibald, 
 Earl of Douglas ; after which, the lands, with the she- 
 riffdom of Roxburghshire, remained in the family of 
 Douglas till the abolition of heritable jurisdictions. The 
 town of Cavers was taken and laid waste by the English 
 in 1596, and appears not to have been rebuilt. The 
 advowson of the church once belonged to Melrose Abbey, 
 203 
 
 havingbeen granted to that establishment by William, first 
 Earl of Douglas, who was interred at Melrose in 1384. 
 
 The PARISH is about twenty-four miles long, and from 
 two to eight miles in breadth, containing about 76,000 
 acres. Its outline, like its surface, is altogether irregu- 
 lar, intersecting, and being intersected by, several other 
 parishes. The scenery comprises hill and dale, pasture 
 and arable land, wood and water, all uniting to produce 
 an agreeable landscape. The lower part of the district 
 consists of a series of continuous undulations, well culti- 
 vated, inclosed with neatly-trained hedge-rows, and 
 occasionally ornamented with choice plantations ; the 
 upper division is of a different character, being altogether 
 pastoral, and diversified chiefly with verdant hills and 
 woody brakes, which relieve the uniformity of its vvild 
 and spreading tracts of grazing land. The numerous 
 hills, the peculiar features of which are their graceful 
 and well-rounded summits, are covered in summer with 
 a rich verdure, and embrace some very fine views. The 
 loftiest mountain is the Wisp, which rises 1830 feet 
 above the level of the sea, and commands a prospect, 
 eastward, of the sea at Berwick-upon-Tweed ; and to 
 the south and west, of the Solway Firth, and, in 
 a clear day, the Isle of Man. There are several other 
 mountains of nearly the same elevation, which exhibit 
 almost every diversity of position, form, and surface, 
 and combine to produce a powerful impression on the 
 admirer of this description of scenery. The principal 
 river is the Teviot, which rises in the parish, and forms 
 its north-western boundary ; the Slitrige also rises in 
 the parish, and after winding through a great variety of 
 interesting scenery, is lost in the Teviot at Hawick. All 
 the streams in these parts abound in trout, and are annu- 
 ally visited, in the principal spawning season, about Mar- 
 tinmas, by salmon from the sea. 
 
 The SOIL is very various ; rich and fertile near the 
 confluence of the Teviot and Rule; in the lower division, 
 generally a good productive mould ; but in the more 
 elevated lands, of inferior character, and occasionally 
 bare and rocky. The higher grounds are employed 
 chiefly for the pasturage of sheep, the total number of 
 which is about 11,500, all of the pure Cheviot breed: 
 the cattle are chiefly the Teeswater. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £12,493. The principal 
 mansions are, Cavers House, the seat of the Douglas 
 family ; and Stobs Castle, the property of Sir William F. 
 Eliott, Bart. : Lord Ileathfield, the gallant defender of 
 Gibraltar, was sprung from the family of Stobs, where 
 he was born in 17 18. There are several good turnpike- 
 roads, of which that between Edinburgh and Carlisle 
 passes through the ujjper part of the jjarish ; another 
 runs through the lower part to Jedburgh, Kelso, and 
 other places, and a third, along the Slitrige, communi- 
 cates with the English border counties. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Jedburgh, synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; 
 patron, James Douglas, Esq. The stipend of the minis- 
 ter is £250, with a manse, built in 1813. Cavers church 
 is an elegant and substantial edifice, situated in the 
 lower division of the parish ; it was built in 1821, with 
 sittings for about 400 persons, and is in very good re- 
 pair. There is also a chapel at Cacrlanrig, in the upper 
 part of the parish, erected by the inhabitants about forty 
 or fifty years ago, and supposed to have succeeded seve- 
 ral others, which stood ou the same site : the Duke of 
 
 2 D2
 
 C A WD 
 
 CERE 
 
 Buccleuch, who supplied the ground, and materials for 
 the building, allows £25 per annum to the minister, who 
 receives several other contributions, making up a sum 
 of about £50 as a salary, and also has a manse. There 
 are three parochial schools, situated at Denholm, Stobs, 
 and Caerlanrig ; the master at Denholm has a salary of 
 £30, with about £25 fees, and the other masters each 
 receive from £12 to £15 salary, and about £20 fees. 
 Sometime ago, a large stock of gold coins was found at 
 Priest-haugh, supposed to have been hidden by the at- 
 tendants of Queen Mary, when she visited Bothwell at 
 Hermitage Castle, in Liddesdale, in 1561. At Caerlan- 
 rig, the celebrated border robber, Johnnie Armstrong of 
 Gilknockie, with several of his companions, was executed 
 by order of King James V. 
 
 CAVERTON, a village, in the parish of Eckford, 
 district of Kelso, county of Roxburgh, 4i miles (S. 
 by E.) from Kelso ; containing 50 inhabitants. It is in 
 the vicinity of an extensive common, on which is a race- 
 course, where the Kelso races are held. 
 
 CAWDOR, a parish, partly in the county of Inver- 
 ness, but chiefly in that of Nairn ; containing 1150 
 inhabitants, of whom 146 are in the village of Cawdor, 
 5i miles (S. S. W.) from Nairn. This place was an- 
 ciently called Barewan, or Barivan, partly from the situ- 
 ation of the original church, of which there are some 
 remains in the braes or hilly parts of the parish ; and 
 partly from its patron saint, Ewan. It has for several 
 centuries, however, been distinguished by the appellation 
 of Calder, or Cawdor, the name of a tributary stream 
 flowing through it into the river Nairn, and the banks 
 of which, richly wooded, and crowned with a stately 
 baronial castle, have long been celebrated for their ro- 
 mantic beauty. Connected with the fortress, for the 
 erection of which a royal license was obtained in 1393, 
 are some highly interesting historical allusions. The 
 murder of Duncan, King of Scotland, has been tradi- 
 tionally referred to this place, and the room is still 
 shewn in which it is said to have occurred ; but the 
 date of the building sufficiently contradicts this opinion, 
 which may have been erroneously derived from the cir- 
 cumstance of Macbeth's inferior title being Thane of 
 Cawdor. During the rebellion in 1*45, Lord Lovat, 
 who had taken an active part in that transaction, found 
 refuge from his pursuers in a retired apartment of this cas- 
 tle, in which he lay concealed for a considerable time. 
 
 The PARISH, which is bounded on the north by the 
 river Nairn, is about four miles in length, and of very 
 irregular form, varying from one mile to five miles in 
 breadth, with a narrow strip extending southward for 
 nearly sixteen miles, and crossing the river Findhorn. 
 It comprises 35,313 acres, of which more than 3000 are 
 arable, upwards of 5000 acres woodland and plantations, 
 and the remainder pasture and moor. The surface, for 
 nearly a mile from the bank of the Nairn, is a continued 
 plane, rising towards the south into hills of considerable 
 elevation, of which the acclivities near the base are in 
 excellent cultivation, the higher portions richly planted, 
 and the summits covered with heath. In the plains the 
 soil is a loam of moderate fertility, resting on sand and 
 gravel, and the hills afford tolerable pasture for cattle ; 
 the lower hills are composed chiefly of old red sandstone, 
 and in the higher are beds of gneiss, interspersed with 
 veins of granite. The system of agriculture has been 
 greatly improved, under the auspices of the Nairnshire 
 204 
 
 Farming Society, who hold annual meetings here, at 
 which they award premiums for the best specimens of 
 stock; the crops consist of grain of every kind, potatoes, 
 and turnips, and the rotation plan of husbandry is pre- 
 dominant. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £23*0. Timber attains a luxuriant growth ; 
 oak, ash, fir, alder, and birch are indigenous to the soil, 
 and the plantations consist mostly of beech, larch, lime, 
 sycamore, and elm. The prevaihng character of the 
 scenery is beautifully picturesque. 
 
 Cawdor Castle, the seat of Earl Cawdor, and his oc- 
 casional residence, is a stately structure in good preser- 
 vation, and of much strength ; the walls, which are of 
 great thickness, and crowned with battlements, are de- 
 fended by a lofty tower, which is the most ancient por- 
 tion of the building, and the whole presents a fine speci- 
 men of baronial grandeur. The village, which is neatly 
 built, obtained a charter of incorporation in the reign of 
 Charles I.; but it never exercised any of the privileges 
 conferred upon it, or rose into any importance. The 
 only manufacture carried on is that of whisky, in the 
 well-known Brackla distillery ; a sub-post has been es- 
 tablished under the office at Nairn, and the roads are 
 kept in good repair. This parish, which has been aug- 
 mented with portions of those of Nairn and Auldearn, is 
 ecclesiastically within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Nairn and synod of Moray. The minister's stipend is 
 £156, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £7 ; patron, 
 Earl Cawdor. The church, built in 1619, and repaired 
 and improved in 1S30, is a neat structure containing 
 681 sittings j the service is performed alternately in the 
 English and Gaelic languages. There is a place of wor- 
 ship for members of the Free Church. The parochial 
 school is well attended ; the master has a salary of £34, 
 and the fees average about £10. A school, lately esta- 
 blished, is supported by the Society for Propagating 
 Christian Knowledge, who also support a school for fe- 
 males; and another female school is endowed by the 
 Countess Cawdor. 
 
 CERES, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county 
 of Fife ; containing, with the villages of Ceres, Chance- 
 Inn, and Craigrothie, 2944 inhabitants, of whom 10*9 
 are in the village of Ceres, 'i^ miles (S. E.) from Cupar. 
 This place, the name of which is of very uncertain deri- 
 vation, appears to have consisted originally of several 
 distinct baronies, belonging to various families of impor- 
 tance. It is about eight miles in length, and of ex- 
 tremely irregular form, ranging from about half a mile 
 to four milts in breadth. The surface is pleasingly 
 diversified with hills and level plains, and intersected by 
 different streams, of which the principal is the Eden, 
 winding along the north-western limit of the parish 
 for nearly a mile and a half. This beautiful river for- 
 merly abounded with trout of excellent quality, but 
 since the erection of some manufactories on its banks, 
 they have greatly diminished in number. Two rivulets, 
 flowing respectively from the south and west, unite their 
 streams in approaching the village of Ceres, and form 
 the small river of that name, which, after passing through 
 the village, falls into the Eden ; it is subject to violent 
 inundations, which have destroyed one stone bridge of 
 great strength, and occasionally do much damage to the 
 lands. The general scenery is varied ; and the ruins 
 of several ancient baronial mansions, occupying com- 
 manding situations, and retaining much of their original
 
 CERE 
 
 CHAN 
 
 grandeur, give an air of romantic interest to tlie land- 
 scape. 
 
 The soil is various : along the banks of the Eden, it 
 is of a light sandy quality ; in other parts, a fine loose 
 mould, interspersed with clay ; and in others, consists 
 of moss and moorlands, which, by the recent improve- 
 ments that have taken place in agriculture, have been 
 rendered fertile. The number of acres in the parish is 
 estimated at about 8000, of which 3'200 are arable, about 
 4000 in pasture, and 800 in plantations and moor. The 
 system of husbandry is in a very advanced state. Great 
 numbers of cattle of various breeds are fed for the neigh- 
 bouring markets, and large quantities of pork are sent 
 hence to the London and other markets. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £1 '2,562. The 
 plantations are well managed and flourishing, and on 
 the lands belonging to several of the proprietors is some 
 stately timber. The substrata are chiefly freestone, 
 whinstone, and limestone, with portions of colum- 
 nar basalt ; and coal is found in some parts of the pa- 
 rish. The freestone and whinstone are extensively 
 quarried for building and other purposes, and large quan- 
 tities of the latter are employed in the construction of 
 drains and fences ; the limestone is very abundant, of 
 various qualities, and also wrought to a great extent. 
 The coal, which is likewise of various quality, has been 
 extensively wrought, but the workings have been dis- 
 continued some years ; the seams of coal are found in a 
 direction parallel with the limestone, from which it is 
 separated by masses of trap. Edenwood, the property 
 of Sir George Campbell, is a splendid modern man- 
 sion, beautifully situated in grounds tastefully laid out. 
 Teasses is also a handsome mansion, commanding a fine 
 view of the Firth of Forth. 
 
 A considerable number of the inhabitants are era- 
 ployed in the spinning of flax, tow, and yarn, the raw 
 materials being brouglit from Dundee, to which town, 
 and also to the manufacturers of Fife, the yarn is sent. 
 Two mills for these purposes were erected in IS'27, on 
 the lands of Pitscottie Easter ; they are usually pro- 
 pelled by water, but in dry seasons, when the supply of 
 water is insutticient, are driven by steam, and they afford 
 employment to a considerable number of persons. There 
 is likewise a spinning-mill at Tarvet, which was erected 
 in 1799, and is driven partly by water and partly by 
 steam : it also comprises machinery for sawing timber. 
 A bleaching establishment was opened at Duradeu in 
 1825, which, from a well in the vicinity of the works, is 
 called the St. Ann's Bleaching Company ; and which 
 affords employment to about forty persons. The ar- 
 ticles woven in the parish were formerly confined to 
 brown Silesias, but since the erection of the mills, and 
 the establishment of the bleachfield, sheetings and dow- 
 las have been chiefly manufactured ; about 900 persons 
 are thus employed, and the average value of their pro- 
 duce amounts to £60,000 per annum. The village is 
 pleasantly situated, and surrounded by scenery contain- 
 ing many highly interesting features; the river Ceres 
 flows through the centre of it, and a good bridge of 
 stone has been erected. The houses are chiefly inha- 
 bited by persons engaged in weaving and in the various 
 manufactures carried on in the parish ; it has been con- 
 siderably extended by the erection of numerous houses 
 beyond the bridge, and the church, which was formerly 
 at one extremity of it, is now, by that addition, almost 
 205 
 
 in its centre. Fairs are held on the 24th June and 20th 
 October, for the sale of wool, grain of all kinds, cattle, 
 and horses, and are numerously attended. 
 
 The church formerly belonged to the religious esta- 
 blishment of Kirkheugh, at St. Andrew's, and was after- 
 wards under the direction of the presbytery of St. An- 
 drew's ; the parish is now in the presbytery of Cupar, 
 synod of Fife. The stipend of the incumbent is about 
 £230 ; the manse was built in 178S, and the glebe com- 
 prises about seven acres : patron, the Earl of Glasgow. 
 Ceres church, erected in 1806, near the site of the 
 former, is a neat and substantial edifice, adapted for a 
 congregation of 1100 persons. There are places of wor- 
 ship for members of the Free Church, the United Pres- 
 byterian Synod, and Associated Antiburghers. The 
 parochial school affords a liberal course of instruction, 
 including the classics and mathematics ; the master has 
 a salary of £34, and £38 fees, with a house. In the 
 old church was an aisle belonging to the family at Craig- 
 hall, which, previously to the Reformation, was a chapel 
 dedicated to St. Ninian. There are some interesting 
 remains of the seat of Craighall, about half a mile from 
 the village of Ceres ; they are situated on the bank of a 
 deep,sequestered,and richly-wooded dell,and still present 
 a striking memorial of ancient grandeur. The remains of 
 Struthers, the seat of the Earls of Crawfurd, situated in 
 a park of 200 acres inclosed with a stone wall, have 
 been reduced to a mere ruin ; the venerable and stately 
 timber on the lands has either perished or been cut 
 down, and of the once splendid castle, with its lofty em- 
 battled towers, one solitary tower alone is left. There is 
 also in the parish a tower about twenty-five feet square 
 and sixty feet high, built of hewn freestone, and situated 
 on an eminence commandine: an extensive prospect over 
 the surrounding country : about two centuries ago it was 
 the residence of the Scotstarvet family. Lindsay of 
 Pitscottie, author of a History of Scotland, was a native 
 of this parish ; and Thomas Haliburton, professor of 
 divinity in the universitj' of St. Andrew's, was minister 
 of Ceres in the beginning of the last century. 
 
 CESSFORD, a village, in the parish of Eckford, 
 district of Kklso, county of Roxburgh, 6 miles (N. E.) 
 from the town of Jedburgh ; containing 150 inhabitants. 
 It is situated in Teviotdale, and near the Teviot stream, 
 which here runs on the west, and immediately after- 
 wards takes a south-western direction. Near the village 
 are the remains of the ancient castle of Cessford, which 
 gives the title of Baron to the Duke of Roxburghe. — See 
 Eckford. 
 
 CHANCE-INN, a village, in the parish of Ceres, 
 district of Cupar, county ot Fife, 2 miles (S. by W.) 
 from Cupar; containing 132 inhabitants. It is in the 
 western part of the parish, and on the borders of the 
 parish of Cults. 
 
 CHANCE-INN, Forf.\r.— See Inverkkillor. 
 
 CHANNELKIRK, a parish, in the county of Ber- 
 wick, 6 miles (N. N. W.) from Lauder, and on the road 
 between Edinburgh and Kelso ; containing 780 inhabit- 
 ants. The name is said to have been originally Childer- 
 /ii;7t, signifying " the children's kirk", some supposing 
 the place to have been so called from the dedication of 
 its church to the Innocents. It has also been written 
 ChlUiin-ldrk, meaning, according to others, " the church 
 at the fort", on account of the church and village stand- 
 ing within the area of a llomau camp. The numerous
 
 CHAN 
 
 CHAR 
 
 Pictish encampments, traces of which yet remain in the 
 parish, shew it to have been in ancient times the scene 
 of military commotion, of the particulars of which no 
 information is recorded. The monks of Melrose Abbey 
 were accustomed to pass along a road running through 
 this district, in their way to and from Edinburgh, and 
 rested and refreshed themselves at a house a few miles 
 west from the church, called the " Resh Law " or 
 " Restlaw Haw", which was about half way between 
 Melrose and Edinburgh^ and the ruins of which still 
 remain. 
 
 The PARISH is of circular figure, measuring about six 
 miles in diameter, and containing upwards of 17,000 
 acres. Its surface is marked by hills and valleys, having 
 but a small portion of level ground. Towards the north 
 and west, the lofty hills, which all form part of the 
 Lammermoor range, separate the counties of East and 
 Mid Lothian from the shire of Berwick, and are for the 
 most part bleak, and covered with heath : the highest 
 is Soutra, which attains an elevation of 1000 feet above 
 the sea. The vale of the Leader commences here, 
 stretching out to the east, and having the Lammermoor 
 hills for its northern boundary ; on the south is a moory 
 ridge which separates it from the valley of Gala. There 
 are numerous springs of good water, descending from 
 the hills : and the Leader, after receiving several moun- 
 tain streamlets in the principal valley through which it 
 glides, flows onwards for about seventeen miles, and falls 
 into the Tweed below Melrose. 
 
 The soil, near the banks of the river, is a light dry 
 earth, resting upon a deep subsoil of sandy gravel : a 
 deep layer of peat is found on the hills wherever the 
 surface is level to any extent, and frequently there are, 
 under this, considerable quantities of fine sand and 
 gravel. About one-half of the land is under a regular 
 rotation of crops ; the other half is permanent hill pas- 
 ture. There is no natural wood ; but about 100 acres 
 are occupied by plantations, consisting principally of 
 larch and Scotch fir, with some elm and ash, which are 
 for the most part in a thriving condition. A very small 
 quantity only of wheat is produced, the soil and climate 
 being uncongenial to its growth ; the system of husban- 
 dry is the five years' rotation, which is usually applied 
 to light soils suited to the growth of turnips. On the 
 hills the sheep are generally of the old Scotch black- 
 faced breed ; but in the lower grounds, the Cheviots, 
 and sometimes the Leicesters, are preferred. The an- 
 nual value of the parish is £6053. The rocks on the 
 hills are all of the trap formation, and in the bottom of 
 the river Leader are beds of red sandstone, which is 
 used for building ; some whinstone quarries in the 
 parish supply materials of the best quality, and in great 
 abundance, for building and road-making. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery 
 of Lauder, synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; patron. Sir 
 Hugh Campbell, Bart. The minister's stipend is £190, 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum. 
 The church is situated in the hamlet of Channelkirk, 
 nearly in the middle of the parish, but somewhat incon- 
 veniently, being too distant for the bulk of the popula- 
 tion, and seated on a hill about SOO feet above the level 
 of the sea. It was built in 1817, in the Elizabethan 
 style, and accommodates 300 persons. There is a paro- 
 chial school, the master of which has a salary of £30, 
 about £40 fees, and a house and garden. There is also 
 206 
 
 a good parochial library, established about fifty or sixty 
 years since. 
 
 CHAPEL, a village, in the parish of Abbotshall, 
 district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, 2 miles (N. W.) 
 from Kirkcaldy ; containing 159 inhabitants. It lies 
 in the northern part of the parish, and nearly on the 
 borders of the parish of Dysart. 
 
 CHAPEL OF GARIOCH.— See Garioch. 
 
 CHAPELHALL, a village, in the late quoad sacra 
 parish of Holytown, parish of Bothwell, Middle ward 
 of county Lanark ; containing 1431 inhabitants. This 
 village is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in the 
 collieries and mines of the immediate vicinity, and in 
 the extensive iron and steel works of the Monkland 
 Company, which have been long established in the neigh- 
 bourhood. There is a place of worship for the United 
 Presbyterian Synod ; and schools for the instruction of 
 children are supported by the proprietors of the several 
 works. — See Holytown. 
 
 CHAPELHILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Monzie, 
 county of Perth ; containing 77 inhabitants. 
 
 CHAPELTON, a hamlet, in the parish of Borgue, 
 stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 1 mile (S. W.) from 
 Borgue ; containing 31 inhabitants. 
 
 CHAPELTON, a village, in the parish of Cambus- 
 LANG, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; contain- 
 ing 367 inhabitants, almost exclusively employed in 
 weaving. 
 
 CHAPELTON, a village, in the parish of Glas- 
 FORD, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 3^ miles 
 (N. by E.) from Strathaven ; containing 602 inhabitants. 
 This village derived its name from the occasional per- 
 formance of divine service here, previously to the erec- 
 tion of the present church. It is pleasantly situated, 
 and the inhabitants are generally employed in agricul- 
 ture. There are three friendly societies, consisting in 
 the aggregate of about 200 members ; and a temperance 
 society of forty members. Two endowed schools have 
 been established, both of which are branches of the 
 parochial school, and so situated as to be easily accessi- 
 ble to children from all parts of the parish. There is 
 also a Sabbath school, supported by subscription. 
 
 CHAPELTON OF BOYSACK, a hamlet, in the 
 parish of Inverkeillor, county of Forfar, 5 miles 
 (N. by W.) from Arbroath ; containing 52 inhabitants. 
 It is situated to the south of the Lunan water, and on 
 the road from Brechin to Arbroath. Here is a school, 
 endowed with a small bequest, and the master of which 
 has a house and garden. 
 
 CHARLESTON, a village and small sea-port, in 
 the parish and district of Dunfermline, county of 
 Fife, 3 miles (S. W. by S.) from Dunfermline ; contain- 
 ing 772 inhabitants. This village, which is situated on 
 the north shore of the Firth of Forth, was founded for 
 the accommodation of the persons employed in the ex- 
 tensive collieries and lime-works of the Earl of Elgin, in 
 the immediate neighbourhood. It is well built, and has 
 a neat and pleasing appearance ; the surrounding sce- 
 nery is enlivened by the well-planted demesne of Broom- 
 hall, the seat of the earl. The inhabitants are generally 
 in easy circumstances. The manufacture of various 
 articles of cast-iron and brass, for which a foundry has 
 been established, is carried on to a moderate extent ; 
 and there are some extensive limekilns, in which the 
 limestone obtained from the quarries is burnt. The
 
 CHI R 
 
 CHR Y 
 
 produce of the Elgin collieries, and the limestone from 
 the quarries, are conveyed by tramways from the mines, 
 to the harbour here, for exportation ; the quantity of 
 coal shipped annually is estimated at 120,000 tons, of 
 limestone 15,000 tons, and of shell-lime about 400,000 
 bushels. Charleston harbour is spacious, and has been 
 deepened and greatly improved within the last few years. 
 A school is supported by the Earl of Elgin. 
 
 CHARLESTON, a village, in the parish of Glam- 
 Mis, county of Forfar, I5 mile (S.) from Glammis; 
 containing 348 inhabitants. This is a new village, fast 
 increasing in extent and population. 
 
 CHARLESTOWN, a village, in the united parish of 
 Aboyne and Glentanner, district of Kincardine 
 O'Neil, county of Aberdeen, 5 miles distant (W.) from 
 Kincardine O'Neil; containing 260 inhabitants. This 
 thriving place, formerly called Bunty, is pleasantly situated 
 on the western bank of the burn of CouU, near Aboyne 
 Castle, and is a burgh of barony, of which the Marquess 
 of Huntly is superior. The tollbooth was destroyed 
 towards the close of the last century, and the traces of 
 the pot and gallows are now scarcely visible. There 
 are an excellent inn, several good shops, and some flour, 
 barley, and malt mills ; and numerous persons are era- 
 ployed in various handicraft trades : a post-office has 
 been established, and the mail-coach to and from Aber- 
 deen passes through daily. A weekly market is held, 
 and there are five fairs annually. Here is the parochial 
 school, and not far distant stands the church. 
 
 CHARLESTOWN, a village, in the parish of Aber- 
 LOUR, county of Banff, 5 miles (N. W. by W.) from 
 Dufftown J containing 328 inhabitants. This village 
 was founded in the year 1812 by Charles Grant, Esq., 
 who erected it into a burgh of barony, by the name of 
 Charlestown of Aberlour ; it is about half a mile in ex- 
 tent, comprising nearly all the holm lands of the district, 
 and is neatly built. The inhabitants are chiefly em- 
 ployed in agricultural pursuits ; there is a good inn, 
 and fairs are held on the first Thursday in April, the 
 Thursday before the 21st of May, and the second Thurs- 
 days in July and November. The female school for the 
 parish is situated in the village, and affords instruction 
 chiefly in sewing and English reading. 
 
 CHARLESTOWN, a hamlet, in the parish of Knock- 
 bain, county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 87 
 inhabitants. 
 
 CHERRY-BANK, a village, in the East parish of 
 the city of Perth, county of Perth; containing 157 
 inhabitants. 
 
 CHESTERHILL, with Sauchenside, a village, in 
 the parish of Cranston, county of Edinburgh, 1 mile 
 (S. W.) from Cranston ; containing 284 inhabitants. 
 
 CHESTERS, a village, in the parish of Southdean, 
 district of Jedburgh, county of Roxburgh, 6 miles 
 (S.) from Jedburgh ; containing 82 inhabitants. The 
 village is seated between the Rule and Jedburgh waters, 
 from which it is equidistant ; and on account of its cen- 
 tral situation it contains the church. On the adjacent 
 heights are the ruins of some strong fortifications or 
 camps ; their form is circular, and in general they are 
 quite distinct. Each is apparently within view of South- 
 dean Law, which, according to tradition, was a place of 
 observation, where fires were lighted on the approach of 
 an enemy. 
 
 CHIRNSIDE, a parish and a burgh of barony, in 
 207 
 
 the county of Berwick, 4^ miles (S. W. by W.) from 
 Ayton; containing 1203 inhabitants. The name of this 
 place is interpreted "the sepulchral tumulus on the side 
 of the hill". The parish is about three miles in length, 
 and the same in breadth, containing upwards of 5000 
 acres. Its surface is flat, with the exception of Chirn- 
 side hill in the northern part, from which some beauti- 
 ful prospects are obtained. The Whitadder river runs 
 along the southern boundary of the parish, and is here 
 a fine expansive stream, being but a small distance from 
 its junction with the Tweed near Berwick. There is no 
 waste land ; the soil is good, and in a high state of cul- 
 tivation. About 370 acres are occupied by plantations, 
 which are in a thriving state, especially those on the 
 banks of the Whitadder at Ninewells ; about one-half 
 of the rest of the land is in tillage, and the other in 
 grass. All kinds of grasses and of grain are produced, 
 of good quality, but oats form the most considerable 
 crop ; potatoes and turnips are also raised, and the latter 
 are very fine and plentiful. About 2500 sheep are 
 usually kept ; they are the large Leicesters, and the 
 cattle are of the short-horned breed. Draining has been 
 practised to a great extent, and large sums have lately 
 been expended in embankments on the river Whitadder. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £8891. 
 The rocks consist of freestone, which is abundant, and 
 of which several quarries are wrought. 
 
 The village is in the south-western part of the 
 parish ; it has a fair on the last Thursday in November, 
 for the sale of sackcloth, linen-yarn, and pottery-ware. 
 The road from Dunse to Ayton runs through the centre 
 of it, and the western boundary of the parish is skirted 
 by the Dunse branch of the North-British railway. The 
 principal mansions are Whitehall, Ninewells, and Mains. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Chirnside, synod of Merse and Teviotdale; 
 patron, Mitchell Innes, Esq. The minister's stipend is 
 £247, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £29 per an- 
 num. Chirnside church is very ancient ; the western 
 door is Saxon, and on one of the walls, evidently of 
 later erection, is a tablet dated 1572, with the inscrip- 
 tion Helpe the Pur: the edifice was enlarged some years 
 ago, and now affords accommodation for 500 persons. 
 The United Presbyterian Synod have a place of worship, 
 as have also the Reformed Presbyterians. There is a 
 parochial school, in which the classics, mathematics, 
 and French are taught, with all the usual branches of 
 education ; the master's salary is £34, with about £30 
 fees, and a house and garden. The celebrated historian, 
 David Hume, was brought up from his infancy at Nine- 
 wells House ; and the Rev. Henry Erskine, father of the 
 Rev. Ebenezer and Ralph Erskine, leaders of the Seces- 
 sion, was the first minister here after the Revolution : 
 a handsome monument has lately been erected to his 
 memory in the churchyard. 
 
 CHRYSTON, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in the 
 parish of Cadder, Lower ward of the county of La- 
 nark ; including the villages of Mollensburn, Moodies- 
 burii, Muirhead, and Auchinloch, and containing 2670 
 inhabitants, of which number 555 are in the village of 
 Chryston, 7 miles (E. by N.) from Glasgow. The dis- 
 trict was formed of the eastern half of the parish of 
 Cadder, and comprised about eleven square miles, its 
 greatest length being four and a half, and its greatest 
 breadth three and a quarter miles. The face of the
 
 C L A C 
 
 CL A C 
 
 country is level, and the soil is s:enerally thin, on a sub- 
 soil of hard, blue till, which would be very unproductive, 
 if it were not for the liberal application of manure, 
 which is readily procured from the city of Glasgow. It 
 is remarkable that the district is intersected by no fewer 
 than three railways, namely, the Monkland and Kirkin- 
 tilloch, the Glasgow, Garnkirk, and Coatbridge, and the 
 Edinburgh and Glasgow. On these lines many public 
 works have been erected. Limestone is wrought in 
 twelve different places, bj' which the numerous iron- 
 works in the neighbouring parish of Old Monkland are 
 almost wholly supplied with this material. Two dif- 
 ferent works for the manufacture of articles from fire- 
 clay have been raised, one of which is on a scale that is 
 said not to be surpassed by any similar work in the 
 kingdom : a work has also been established for making 
 house-tiles, common bricks, and draining-tiles. Many 
 attempts have been made by boring, sinking, &c., to 
 discover coal in the district ; but none has yet been 
 found that can pay the expense of working. The vil- 
 lage is handsomely built and pleasantly situated ; and 
 but for the want of water, which is obtained only from 
 the well of Bedlay, nearly a quarter of a mile distant, 
 and difhcult of access, it might become a more populous 
 and flourishing place. A fair, chiefly for the sale of fat- 
 cattle, was formerly held here at Martinmas ; but it has 
 been some time discontinued. Chryston is ecclesiasti- 
 cally in the presbytery of Glasgow, synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr. The church is a handsome structure, built 
 by subscription of the inhabitants ; the stone for its 
 erection was quarried by the labourers, and hauled, 
 together with the lime and other materials, by the 
 farmers without any charge. It will accommodate .564 
 persons, and the stipend of the minister is £90, derived 
 from seat-rents, with a manse and garden, valued at £10 
 per annum. A piece of land has been purchased, and 
 is now appropriated to interment. There is a place of 
 worship for members of the Free Church. One of the 
 parochial schools is situated here ; a female school has 
 been built, and a library has been established. The an- 
 cient tomb of the family of Gray, former proprietors, 
 from whom the place takes its name (originally Grays- 
 ton), is here crossed by the line of road leading to Cum- 
 bernauld. 
 
 CLACHAN, a village, chiefly in the parish of Camp- 
 siE, and partly in that of Fintry, county of Stirling, 
 2 miles (W.) from Leunoxtown ; containing 191 inha- 
 bitants. This village, called the Clachan of Campsie, 
 is romantically situated in the vicinity of copse woods 
 and secluded valleys, which are much resorted to in 
 summer. The hills above it bend in the form of an 
 amphitheatre, and numerous streams pour down the 
 winding glens into the Glassert, a rivulet which rises in 
 Campsie fells, and falls into the Kelvin above Kirkin- 
 tilloch. A bleachfield, for the preparation of various 
 kinds of muslin, was established here in 1S19. The 
 village formerly contained the parochial church. 
 
 CLACHAN, ST. JOHNS, a village, in the parish of 
 Dalry, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 15 miles (N. N. 
 W.) from Castle-Douglas ; containing 5*4 inhabitants. 
 This village, which is situated on the banks of the river 
 Ken, was built upon lands leased for the purpose by the 
 Earl of Galloway. The houses, to each of which is at- 
 tached a portion of land for a garden, are neatly built ; 
 the village is spacious, and has a pleasingly rural aspect. 
 208 
 
 A branch post-office, under the office of Castle-Douglas, 
 has been established ; and a pleasure-fair, called the 
 Clachan Race, is held annually. Coaclies pass through 
 daily, between Ayr and Kirkcudbright. An ancient 
 stone named St. John's Chair, formerly in the old church, 
 dedicated to St. John, is still preserved here ; and also a 
 stone with the inscription "P. G.VH"., supposed to 
 have been the foundation stone of a chapel erected in 
 the time of Pope Gregory VH. 
 
 CLACHNAHARRY, a village, in the parish and 
 county of Inverness, J mile (W.) from Inverness ; con- 
 taining '260 inhabitants. This place is situated on the 
 shore of Beauly loch, a continuation of the Moray Firth. 
 It takes its name from a rocky eminence now called the 
 Watchman's Stone : on this eminence sentinels were an- 
 ciently placed, to give intelligence of the approach of any 
 hostile forces of the neighbouring clans ; and in com- 
 memoration of one of the numerous conflicts that oc- 
 curred here, a lofty column was erected on the spot by 
 the late H. R. DufiF, Esq., of Muirtown. The village 
 forms a suburb to the burgh of Inverness, and is much 
 resorted to for the wildly romantic scenery, and the nu- 
 merous interesting features, in its immediate vicinity. 
 The inhabitants are chiefly employed in fishing, and la 
 the building of boats, for which its situation near the 
 union of the Caledonian canal with the Firth renders it 
 peculiarly appropriate. A small pier has been con- 
 structed near the sea-lock of the canal, greatly to the be- 
 nefit of the place and neighbourhood. 
 
 CLACKMANNAN, the county town, and a parish, 
 in the county of Clackmannan, 2 miles (E. S. E.) from 
 Alloa ; containing 5145 inhabitants, of whom 10*7 are 
 in the town. This place, the name of which, in the 
 Gaelic language, signifies "the church town of Annan", 
 anciently belonged to the Annandale family, of whom 
 the last heiress, Agnes, conveyed it by marriage to the 
 ancestor of the royal family of Bruce, on his first settling 
 in Scotland, in the twelfth century. The Tower of Clack- 
 mannan is said to have been built by King Robert Bruce, 
 on the site of the baronial residence of the family, soon 
 after his accession to the throne ; and it appears to have 
 been the residence of several of his successors, kings of 
 Scotland, till 1330, when it was granted by David II. to 
 his kinsman, Robert Bruce, first lord of Clackmannan. 
 The lordship continued in the possession of the descend- 
 ants of that family, till the male line became e.xtinct by 
 the death of Henry Bruce, the last lord, in 17*2, after 
 which, on the decease of his lady, the lands became di- 
 vided among various proprietors. 
 
 The TOWN is beautifully situated on an eminence rising 
 gently from the Forth to a height of 190 feet, and chiefly 
 consists of one street. In the centre are the remains of 
 the ancient tollbooth, of which only the steeple is stand- 
 ing ; the gaol and court-house formerly attached are now 
 in ruins, and a county-hall has lately been erected to the 
 north of the town, though the courts are held, and the 
 public business transacted, at Alloa. The houses are 
 irregularly built, and of very mean appearance ; in addi- 
 tion to those in the principal street are several rows of 
 cottages, mostly inhabited by persons employed in the 
 collieries. There are two public subscription libraries. 
 Several of the inhabitants are engaged in various handi- 
 craft trades, and there are numerous shops for different 
 wares ; but from the proximity of Alloa, very little busi- 
 ness is transacted. Two markets are held yearly, and
 
 C L A C 
 
 C L A C 
 
 there is a post-office subordinate to that of Alloa : facility 
 of intercourse is afforded by good roads, by the Stirling 
 and Dunfermline railway, and by the steamers that ply 
 between Granton Pier and Stirling, which call at Alloa, 
 and at Kincardine in the parish of Tulliallan. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the sonth-vvest by the river 
 Forth for about two miles and a half, and thence stretches 
 towards the river Devon, by which it is bounded on the 
 north. It is nearly six miles in length, and comprises 
 an area of about SOOO acres, of which 6000 are arable 
 and pasture, I7OO woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder waste. For more than a mile from the bank 
 of the Forth the surface is level carse land, beyond which 
 it rises in gentle undulations to the vale through which 
 the Black Devon flows, and thence, more precipitously, 
 to the vale of the Devon. The Black Devon has its 
 source in the hills of the parish of Saline, on the east, and, 
 after sweeping round the western base of the hill on 
 which the Tower of Clackmannan is situated, flows into 
 the Forth about two miles from the town. The Forth is 
 about one mile in breadth opposite the parish, having been 
 considerably contracted by an embankment, by which a 
 considerable portion of land has been gained from it. 
 Though various, and resting chiefly on a cold tilly sub- 
 soil, the soil is not unfertile ; the chief crops are oats, 
 barley, wheat, turnips, and potatoes. The system of 
 husbandry has been improved under the auspices of the 
 Clackmannanshire Agricultural Society ; the lands have 
 been well drained and partly inclosed, and the farm- 
 houses and offices are generally substantial and commo- 
 dious. The cattle are mostly of a mixed description, but 
 there are also several of the Teeswater, and many of the 
 Ayrshire breed. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £13,704. The plantations are principally 
 oak, larch, and Scotch and spruce firs ; they are well 
 managed, and in a thriving state. 
 
 The SUBSTRATA are ironstone and coal, which are very 
 abundant, and sandstone, of which there are several quar- 
 ries. The coal-field contains eleven workable seams, 
 varying from two to nine feet in thickness, and the low- 
 est of which is found at a depth of 110 fathoms; the 
 most important collieries are those of the Clackmannan, 
 the Devon, and the Alloa Companies. The seams prin- 
 cipally wrought are, the upper and under five feet, the 
 nine feet, and the three-and-a-half feet seams, which are 
 all of the best quality ; and the upper two feet seam, 
 ■which is found only in the northern part of the parish. 
 The upper five, the nine, and two feet seams are wrought 
 by the Devon Company, chiefly for their smelting- works ; 
 and the others, by the Clackmannan and Alloa Compa- 
 nies. In the aggregate the quantity raised daily is about 
 500 tons, of which 200 are consumed in the parish, and 
 the remainder conveyed by tramroads from the mines, 
 to be shipped to various parts of Scotland, for which 
 purpose facility is afforded by the harbour of Kennet- 
 pans, and the construction of extensively-projecting piers, 
 at the mouth of the Black Devon. The collieries give 
 employment to about 70O men. The Devon Company's 
 iron-works in the parish are situated on the banks of the 
 river Devon, and employ three furnaces, for the making 
 of pig-iron, of which about 6000 tons are annually pro- 
 duced ; and connected with the works is an extensive 
 foun(fry, in which large quantities of cast-iron goods are 
 made. At Kilbagie is a distillery, which has been long 
 established, but at present no operations are carried ou. 
 Vol. I.— '209 
 
 The buildings occupy an area of nearly seven acres, in- 
 closed with a high wall, and for their supply with grain 
 S.50 acres of land were formerly expressly cultivated. 
 The vyorks were carried on upon a very extensive scale, 
 and 700 cattle were fed tipon the premises ; the whisky 
 was chiefly for the London market. There is also a dis- 
 tillery near the town, upon a smaller scale, chiefly for 
 the home market. A large brick and tile work has been 
 established, and there are three saw-mills, the machinery 
 of which is propelled by water. 
 
 The principal mansions in the parish are, Schaw Park, 
 a spacious ancient house, containing many handsome 
 apartments, and finely situated in grounds tastefully 
 embellished ; Kennet House, situated on rising grounds 
 overlooking the Forth; Aberdona, in a beautifully se- 
 cluded spot ; Brucefield ; Kennetpans, commanding a 
 fine view of the Forth ; and Kilbagie, pleasantly situated 
 about a mile from the river. Ecclesiastically the parish 
 is within the bounds of the presbytery of Stirling, synod 
 of Perth and Stirling. The minister's stipend is £'284, 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £16 per annum; 
 patron, the Earl of Zetland. Clackmannan church, 
 erected about the year 1820, is a handsome structure, 
 with a tower of lofty elevation, and contains 1300 sit- 
 tings. An additional church has been erected in the 
 north-west district of the parish, which contains 620 sit- 
 tings. There is a place of worship in the town for the 
 United Presbyterian Synod. The parochial school is well 
 attended ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house 
 and garden, in addition to the fees. The ancient Tower 
 of Clackmannan is still tolerably entire ; it is eighty feet 
 high, containing several apartments, and from the sum- 
 mit, to which is an ascent by a spiral staircase, a truly 
 interesting prospect is obtained. On the banks of the 
 Devon are the remains of Sauchie Tower, formerly the 
 seat of the Cathcart family, and now the property of the 
 Earl of Mansfield ; this tower is in a still better state of 
 preservation than that of Clackmannan. 
 
 CLACKMANNANSHIRE, a small county in the 
 interior of Scotland, bounded on the north and north- 
 west by Perthshire, from which it is separated by the 
 Ochil Hills ; on the east, by the county of Fife ; and ou 
 the south and south-vvest, by the river Forth. It lies 
 between 56° 5' and 56° 14' (N. Lat.), and 3° 33' and 
 3° 56' (W. Long.), and is about ten miles in length, and 
 eight miles in extreme breadth ; comprising an area of 
 fifty-two square miles, or 33,280 acres; 3517 dwelling- 
 houses, of which 3406 are inhabited ; and a population 
 of 19,155, of whom 9386 are males, and 9769 females. 
 This county is in the synod of Perth and Stirling, and 
 comprises four entire parishes, with part of another. For 
 civil purposes it is associated with the county of Kin- 
 ross, under one sheriff, who appoints a sheriff-substitute 
 for each county. It contains the towns of Clackmannan 
 and Alloa, in the latter of which the sheriff-substitute 
 resides, and holds his courts, though the quarter-sessions 
 are occasionally held at Clackmannan. Under the act 
 of the 2nd of William IV., the county, jointly with that 
 of Kinross, returns a member to parliament. 
 
 For a considerable breadth from the shore of the 
 Forth the surface is level, but towards the north rises 
 rapidly, forming part of the Ochil range of hills, of which 
 Bencleugh, the highest, has an elevation of 2000 feet 
 above the sea. The principal rivers are, the Forth ; the 
 Devon, which, after a western course through a beauti- 
 
 2 E
 
 CL A R 
 
 C L AT 
 
 fully romantic district, falls into tlie Forth to the west of 
 Alloa ; and the Black Devon, which, after traversing the 
 county in a direction nearly parallel with the Devon, 
 flows into the Forth not far from Clackmannan. There 
 are some small lakes, and an artificial sheet of water 
 called Gartmorn Dam, which is 160 acres in extent. 
 About two-thirds of the land are arable, and the remainder 
 hill pasture ; the soil in the lower districts is exceedingly 
 rich and fertile, producing crops of grain of every kind, 
 and the higher lands afford good pasturage for sheep and 
 cattle. The system of agriculture is in a highly improved 
 state. The annual value of real property in the county 
 is £52,923, of which £35,249 are returned for lands, 
 £7608 for houses, £9699 for mines, and the remainder 
 for other kinds of real property. The chief minerals are 
 ironstone and coal, both of which areextensively wrought; 
 of the former, more than 200,000 tons are annually 
 raised : silver-ore has been also found in some places. 
 Among the manufactures are those of flint and crown 
 glass, steam-engines and all kinds of machinery, the 
 woollen manufacture, which has been latterly much ex- 
 tended ; large potteries, and brick and tile works, various 
 distilleries, breweries, and tanneries. Ship-building, and 
 the making of ropes and sails, are likewise carried on. 
 The Stirling and Dunfermline railway intersects the 
 county. There are several remains of antiquity, among 
 which are the Towers of Alloa and Clackmannan, the 
 latter of which w-as the residence of Robert Bruce ; Ro- 
 man coins have been found, and some sepulchral urns, 
 and various other relics. 
 
 CLAIRTOWN, ST., a village, in the parish of Dy- 
 SART, county of Fife, ~ a mile (N. N. E.) from Kirkcaldy; 
 containing 151 1 inhabitants. This village is part of that 
 of Pathhead, of which it forms the more modern portion, 
 being separated only by the great road to Dundee. It is 
 built upon the estate of St. Clair, or Sinclair, the property 
 of the Earl of Rosslyn, extending in one continued line 
 for about a mile northwards. The inhabitants are chiefly 
 weavers. Great facility of intercourse is afforded by the 
 Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. — See Pathhead. 
 
 CLAREBRAND, a hamlet, in the parish of Cross- 
 MiCHAEL, stewartry of Kirkcudbright ; containing 54 
 inhabitants. 
 
 CLARENCEFIELD, a village, in the parish of Ruth- 
 well, county of Dumfries, 6| miles (W. by N.) from 
 Annan : containing 86 inhabitants. It is situated near 
 the road between Dumfries and Cummertrees, and a 
 short distance west of Ruthwell church. On each side 
 of the village is a stream which discharges itself, at the 
 distance of about a mile, into the Solway Firth. 
 
 CLARKSTON, late a quoad sacra parish, formed of 
 the south-eastern portion of the parish of New Monk- 
 land, and the north-western portion of that of Bertram- 
 Shotts, in the Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 
 1^ mile (E.) from the town of Airdrie ; containing, ac- 
 cording to the last census, 4526 inhabitants, a number 
 which has since considerably increased. The parish 
 measured about seven miles in length from east to west, 
 and three miles in breadth, presenting no lofty hills, yet 
 running along the south side of a pretty high dorse. In 
 general the soil of the district is a cold clay : there is 
 deep moss in some parts, and on the lands of Auchin- 
 gray, Arden, Brownieside, and Moffat are considerable 
 plantations, Auchingray alone containing upwards of 300 
 acres under plantation. Agricultural improvement has 
 210 
 
 in this quarter been much neglected, owing, in some 
 measure, to the distance from which lime can be obtained, 
 but chiefly to the attention of the proprietors having been 
 turned to successful searches after minerals, by which 
 large fortunes have been realized. Within the last few 
 years, however, more than 100 acres have been furrow- 
 drained on the Arden estate, and in several other parts 
 the example has been followed to a considerable extent. 
 The district abounds in blackband ironstone, which, after 
 being taken out of the pit, is calcined, and conveyed by 
 railway to the furnaces around Coatbridge, a distance of 
 from three to four miles, where it is smelted into foun- 
 dry-iron. Numerous iron-mines are now in operation, 
 and the whole district abounds with coal. It contains 
 the villages of Clarkston, Ballochney, Gartness, Hillend, 
 Blackstone, three others of considerable size, and many 
 of smaller extent of more recent erection, for the accom- 
 modation of miners and other work-people. Contiguous 
 to the first-mentioned village are the Clarkston cotton- 
 mills and Moffat paper-mills, and at the village of Gart- 
 ness is an iron-rolling mill. The Carlisle and Stirling 
 road runs along the west boundary of the district, or late 
 parish ; and on the north, the Ballochney, Whiterigg, 
 and Slamannan railway passes for about five miles : it 
 is also intersected by the road from Edinburgh by Bath- 
 gate and Airdrie to Glasgow, which is crossed by a branch 
 of the Ballochney railway at the village of Clarkston. 
 At the east corner of the district is the great reservoir 
 for supplying the Forth and Clyde canal ; and in various 
 places are handsome seats and modern residences. Ec- 
 clesiastically the district is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Hamilton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. 
 The church, which stands at the east entrance of the vil- 
 lage, is of plain rubble workmanship ; it was erected in 
 1836-7, at a cost of about £1480, will accommodate 730 
 persons, and is surrounded by a neat burying-ground. 
 The stipend of the minister by bond is £"0, which is 
 made up from the rent of sittings and collections, and 
 after paying other expenses, the surplus is receivable by 
 the minister, who is appointed by the male communi- 
 cants. There are four schools, built by masters of public 
 works, and for the support of the teachers every miner, 
 whether married or not, pays twopence a week. 
 
 CLARK.STON, a village, in the parish of Cathcart, 
 Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 2 miles (S. by 
 W.) from Cathcart ; containing 180 inhabitants. It lies 
 on the south-western confines of the parish, and on the 
 road from Eaglesham to Cathcart. In the village is a 
 good school, chiefly frequented, from its contiguity to 
 Busby, in the parish of Mearns, by the children of that 
 place ; the master has an endowment of £10 per annum, 
 from the proprietors of the public works at Busby. 
 
 CLASHNESSIE, a village, in the late quoad sacra pa- 
 rish of Stoer, parish of Assynt, county Sutherland, 
 13 miles (N. W. by W.) from Assynt; containing 194 
 inhabitants. This place is seated at the head of a small 
 bay bearing its own name, and on a promontory in 
 which are several lakes, and numerous indentations 
 round the coast. On the north-east are Oldernay bay 
 and island. 
 
 CLATHY, a village, in the parish of Findogask, 
 county of Perth, 4^ miles (N. N. E.) from Auchterarder ; 
 containing 120 inhabitants. It is situated on the road 
 from Dunning to Balgowan, and is the only village in the 
 parish.
 
 CL AT 
 
 CL EI 
 
 CLATT, a parish, in the district of Alford, county 
 of Aberdeen, 10 miles (S.) from Huntly ; containing 
 524 inhabitants. The Gaelic word Cleith, or Cleit, sig- 
 nifying " concealed", appears to have given the name to 
 this place, in consequence of its secluded situation, it 
 being hidden from view on all sides. The parish lies in 
 the western extremity of the Garioch district, and mea- 
 sures about four miles in length, and from two to three 
 in breadth, comprising .5130 acres, of which 2800 are 
 under cultivation, 250 pasture, 200 wood, and the re- 
 mainder waste and undivided common. It consists of 
 an uninterrupted plain, with the exception of a portion 
 of hilly ground on the north-west, and some rising 
 grounds on the declivity of the Suie and Coreen hills, 
 which bound it on the south, and belong to a mountain 
 range extending from east to west for more than twenty 
 miles. The Water of Bogie separates the parish on the 
 north from that of Rhynie ; and it is also indebted, for 
 a considerable relief to its generally uninteresting aspect, 
 to the meandering course of the Gady stream, which re- 
 ceives numerous mountain rivulets. This stream turns 
 twelve threshing-mills and a meal-mill, within the dis- 
 tance of two miles, and after traversing a well-cultivated 
 country falls into the Urie. The land which has been 
 longest in cultivation consists of a rich, deep, loamy 
 soil, lying on a bed of sand or rock ; and the basis of 
 most of the remaining portion of the best land is clay, 
 appearing under various modifications, according to the 
 manures that have been applied. The other parts com- 
 prise alluvial matter, with sand and clay, especially on 
 the lands recovered by draining ; light earth on sand or 
 rock, in the higher grounds ; and heath, moor, and peat- 
 moss. A serious obstacle is presented to the farmer by 
 the deficiency of shelter, the parish having an elevation 
 of 600 feet, and being in the vicinity of a mountain 1300 
 feet high. Agriculture is carried on, however, with all 
 the modern improvements, and the quality of the soil 
 generally is favourable to the production of rich and 
 heavy crops. Great and successful efforts have been 
 made to advance the husbandry to a high state of excel- 
 lence, and within the last twenty years more than 300 
 acres of moss and moor have been reclaimed by exten- 
 sive drainage. Larch and Scotch fir have lately been 
 planted on the hills along the southern boundary, and 
 there are some on the lower grounds that present an 
 agreeable appearance. The breed of cattle, which has 
 been greatly improved, is a cross between the native and 
 the short-horned. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £2940. Granite, whinstone, and serpentine 
 are the principal rocks, and in many parts they are so 
 near the surface as to render the* expense of quarrying 
 unnecessary : there is also a mine of rock composed of 
 hornblende, quartz, and felspar. The mansion-house of 
 Knockespoch is the residence of the principal heritor. 
 
 The village of Clatt, beautifully ornamented with 
 many old ash and plane trees, is a decayed burgh of 
 barony, containing only a few houses. It received its 
 erection from James IV., in 1.501, with power to appoint 
 bailies and other officers, and to hold fairs every year, 
 and a weekly market, which latter has long since fallen 
 into disuse, though some of the inhabitants remember 
 the ancient cross. There are fairs still held at Whitsun- 
 tide and Martinmas, the former for the 'sale of sheep and 
 black-cattle, and the hiring of servants, and the latter 
 for grain, and as a feeing-market. Ecclesiastically the 
 211 
 
 parish is in the presbytery of Alford, synod of Aberdeen, 
 and in the patronage of the Crown : the minister's stipend 
 is £158. 1 1. 4., of which about a seventh part is received 
 from the exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £9 per annum. Clatt church, which is a very ancient 
 edifice, was thoroughly repaired and re-seated in 1828, 
 and contains sittings for 290 persons. The parochial 
 school affords instruction in Latin, book-keeping, ma- 
 thematics, and all the usual branches ; the master has 
 a salary of £25. 13. 4., with a house, an allowance from 
 Dick's bequest, and the fees. This parish was the scene 
 of a fray in 1572 between the rival clans of Forbes and 
 Gordon, in which the latter slew Arthur Forbes, son of 
 Lord Forbes, and commonly called Black Arthur from 
 his dark complexion, and carried the pursuit to the gates 
 of Castle-Forbes, now Druminnor, the family seat of the 
 clan Forbes. Near the village is an eminence called 
 " Gallows Knoll ", the ancient place of execution. 
 
 CLAYBARNS, a village, in the parish of Newton, 
 county of Edinburgh, 5^ of a mile (E. by S.) from 
 Newton ; containing 187 inhabitants. It lies east of the 
 high road from Dalkeith to Edinburgh. 
 
 CLAYHOUSE, a village, in the parish of Borth- 
 ■wiCK, county of Edinburgh, 2 miles (E. by N.) from 
 Carrington ; containing 84 inhabitants. It is in the 
 northern part of the parish, a short distance east of the 
 high road from Middleton to Cockpen, and derives its 
 name from an ancient inn, built of clay, which stood by 
 the way-side, and of which a part still remains, though 
 materially altered. The village borders on a detached 
 portion of Temple parish, and several cottages have lately 
 been erected in the neighbourhood. 
 
 CLAYSLAP, a village, in the Barony parish, and 
 within the jurisdiction of the city of Glasgow, in the 
 county of Lanark. The inhabitants are chiefly em- 
 ployed in the several works in the immediate vicinity. 
 
 CLEISH, a parish, in the county of Kinross, 3 miles 
 (S. S. W.) from Kinross ; containing, with the villages of 
 Kelty and Maryburgh, 681 inhabitants. This place, the 
 name of which is of uncertain derivation, is distinguished 
 by its having formed part of the route taken by Mary, 
 Queen of Scots, on her flight from the castle of Loch- 
 leven, which circumstance is commemorated by the in- 
 sertion of a stone in a bridge at the eastern extremity of 
 the parish, recording that event, and marking out the 
 road. The parish is about six miles and a half in length, 
 and one mile and a half in average breadth. Its surface 
 is diversified with hills, which form a continuous range 
 between this parish and Dunfermline, and the highest of 
 which is Dumglow, rising 1215 feet above the sea; the 
 summit is fiat, commanding an extensive view over the 
 surrounding country, from almost every part of which 
 it is a conspicuous object. The next in height are the 
 hills called the Ingans, all of them more than 1000 feet 
 in elevation. The largest stream is the Gairney, which, 
 after forming the boundary of the parish for nearly five 
 miles, falls into Loch Leven ; it abounds with trout of a 
 small size, and there are some smaller streams issuing 
 from the lakes, and numerous springs of excellent water, 
 affording an abundant supply. Of the several lakes. 
 Loch Glow is two miles and a half or three miles in cir- 
 cumference, and the others of very inferior extent ; the 
 fish found in them are pike, perch, eels, and a few trout. 
 The scenery has been much improved by recent planta- 
 tions, and there are some fine specimens of stately timber, 
 
 2 E 2
 
 C L I M 
 
 C L O S 
 
 some of them of extraordinary growth ; the slopes of 
 several of the hills, and the summits of others, are finely 
 planted. Blair-Adam, the seat of Sir Charles Adam, is a 
 handsome residence, pleasanth' situated : here Sir Walter 
 Scott composed many of his works. 
 
 The soil is varied ; in the lower grounds, clay and 
 deep alluvial soil, with portions of deep moss, which, 
 when brought into cultivation, is extremely rich. The 
 chief crops are oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and tur- 
 nips, with various grasses, which grow luxuriantly in 
 many parts ; and the hills afiFord good pasture for 
 sheep and cattle. Very important improvements have 
 been made, by which a large extent of unprofitable 
 land has been brought into cultivation ; draining has 
 been carried on with great spirit, and the system of 
 husbandry is in a very forward state. Considerable 
 attention is paid to the rearing of stock : the sheep 
 pastured on the hills are generally of the black-faced 
 breed, and those on the lower lands of the Leicestershire 
 breed ; the cattle are the Kinross-shire, Angus, and Fife- 
 shire. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £5535. Among the substrata are whinstone, grey- 
 wacke, and sandstone, of which the hills are mostly com- 
 posed ; limestone is quarried to a great extent, and coal 
 is found in seams upwards of thirty feet thick. Whin- 
 stone is wrought for mending the roads, and there are 
 extensive quarries of freestone ; from one of the quarries, 
 about 14,000 cubic feet are raised annually. At Blair- 
 Adam is a post-ofRce, a branch of that of Kinross ; and 
 facility of communication with the neighbouring towns 
 is maintained by good roads, of which the turnpike- 
 roads from Queensferry and from Dunfermline to Kinross 
 pass through the parish. Cleish is ecclesiastically in the 
 presbytery of Dunfermline, synod of Fife, and in the 
 patronage of Harry Young, Esq. : the minister's stipend 
 is £156. 15. 4., of which about a half is paid from the 
 exchequer; with a manse, and a glebe valued at £14 
 per annum. The late church, erected in 1744, was ac- 
 cidentally destroyed by fire in 1S32, and the present 
 church erected in its place ; it is a handsome edifice, 
 adapted for a congregation of 500 persons. The pa- 
 rochial school is well attended ; the master has a salary 
 of £34, with £26 fees, and a house and garden. Two 
 other schools in the parish are also well attended. 
 
 CLETT ISLE, in the parish of Assynt, county of 
 Sutherland. It is situated on the western coast of 
 the county. Clett is a high rock, considerably above the 
 greatest tide and surge, and, except in one or two places, 
 is of difficult access. Its form is somewhat round, and 
 on its summit is excellent herbage. 
 
 CLEUGHBRAE, a hamlet, in the parish of Mocse- 
 WALD, county of Dumfries, 6 miles (E. by S.) from Dum- 
 fries, on the road to Annan ; containing 53 inhabitants. 
 
 CLIFTON, a village, in the late quoad sacra parish 
 of Strathfillan, parish of Killin, county of Perth ; 
 containing 159 inhabitants. It stands in the north- 
 western portion of the parish, near Tyndrum, and is a 
 small place, formerly occupied by miners employed in 
 working a lead-mine in the vicinity. 
 
 CLIMPY, a small hamlet, in the parish of Carn- 
 WATH, county of Lanark, 7 miles (N.) from Carnwath. 
 This place, situated in a coal district, in the northern 
 part of the parish, is inhabited by persons employed in the 
 collieries. There was formerly .a chapel, which is fallen 
 into decay, and the cottages are in a ruinous state. 
 212 
 
 CLOSEBURN, a parish, in the county of Dum- 
 fries; containing 1530 inhabitants, of whom 123 are 
 in the village, 2| miles (S. S. E.) from Thornhill. This 
 place was anciently called Kill-Osburn, from Cella Osburni. 
 It was formerly remarkable for its very ancient castle, 
 which for many centuries, together with the greater part 
 of the parish, belonged to the family of Kirkpatrick. 
 The parish of Closeburn was annexed to the abbey of 
 Holyrood, and the parish of Dalgarno, now included 
 witRin the limits of Closeburn, to the abbey of Kelso ; 
 but the family of Kirkpatrick possessed the patronage of 
 both churiies, as well as the larger part of the lands. 
 In the year l6o6, these churches were united by the 
 General Assembly held at Linlithgow, in which union 
 they continued till 1648; they were then disjoined, and 
 so remained until 1697, when Dalgarno was again an- 
 nexed to Closeburn. The parish is ten miles in extreme 
 length,and seven and a half inextreme breadth, containing 
 30,189 acres. One of its principal features is the valley 
 of Closeburn, situated in the mountain range, composed 
 chiefly of transition rock, which runs across the island 
 from the German to the Atlantic Ocean. The surface 
 of the parish gradually rises from the western extremity, 
 til! it attains its highest elevation at the north-eastern 
 boundary, at which part is Queensberry hill, one of the 
 loftiest heights in the south of Scotland, and sometimes 
 called the Queen of Hills, rising 2140 feet above the level 
 of the sea. The land in the western and midland districts 
 is chiefly in tillage ; there are considerable plantations 
 towards the east and north, and in this direction the 
 high grounds consist of extensive moors, unfit for the 
 plough, but affording good pasture for sheep. The river 
 Nith runs along the south-western and western, and the 
 Cample along the north-western and western, boundaries 
 of the parish. Among the numerous smaller streams 
 the most distinguished is the Crickup, which, falling over 
 a precipice ninety feet high, forms the celebrated cascade 
 known by the name of " Grey mare's tail ". The course 
 of this stream is beautified by much bold and romantic 
 scenery ; and at Crickup Linn, a second fall, the stream 
 runs through old worn massive rocks, and is shrouded 
 from the eye in its passage by rich and varied foliage, 
 presenting a singularly interesting scene, which the author 
 of H'averley has compared to the retreat of Balfour of 
 Burleigh, in Lanarkshire. 
 
 Along the river Nith the soil is a fine rich loam : 
 higher up, it is a sandy gravel to the depth of twenty 
 feet, well adapted for barley and turnips ; and as the 
 ground further rises, it is of the same nature, but strong 
 and deep, with a mixture of clay, which feature it retains 
 till the high land is reached. About 56s3 acres are 
 under tillage, and 23,006 in pasture ; the natural woods 
 and the plantations cover about 1500 acres. All kinds 
 of grain are produced, with the usual green crops : the 
 cattle are of the Galloway and Ayrshire breeds, and great 
 attention is paid to them ; the sheep are of the short 
 black-faced breed. A limestone rock of great extent was 
 discovered many years ago, of which advantage was 
 taken by the proprietor of the parish, who burnt and ap- 
 plied the contents of it so plentifully that large tracts of 
 sterile ground, much of which was moor, were brought into 
 cultivation. From this period the inhabitants date the rise 
 of their present flourishing system of husbandry. A plan- 
 tation of ninety acres, consisting of Scotch fir sixty years 
 old, was lately cut down, and disposed of for £10,000 ;
 
 CLU N 
 
 CL UN 
 
 the soil upon which it grew was poor and sandy, and 
 not worth sixpence per acre when the trees were planted. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £ 1 1 ,873. 
 The rocks consist of greywacke, limestone, and old red 
 sandstone. The limestone-quarry above referred to con- 
 sists of two distinct beds of different qualities, separated 
 from each other by about eighteen feet of impure lime- 
 stone ; the upper bed is of too caustic a nature for the 
 soil, but the under bed is wrought, and supplies an im- 
 mense quantity of lime. Closeburn Hall, the seat of Sir 
 Charles Stuart Meuteath, Bart., is a spacious structure 
 in the Grecian style, situated in one of the most beautiful 
 valleys in the south of Scotland. There are two turnpil<e- 
 roads, one of which connects Annandale with Nithsdale ; 
 the other forms a part of the great road from Glasgow 
 to Dumfries and Carlisle, and, at a distance of four miles 
 northward, has a branch to Edinburgh. Great facility of 
 intercourse is also afforded by the Glasgow, Dumfries, and 
 Carlisle railway. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Penpont and synod of 
 Dumfries ; patron, Sir Charles Menteath. The minister's 
 stipend averages £240, and there is a substantial and 
 commodious manse, with a glebe of eleven acres, valued 
 at £19 per annum. Closeburn church was built in 1741, 
 and has within these few years been thoroughly repaired ; 
 it is a handsome building, conveniently situated, and will 
 accommodate 6r)0 persons with sittings. The principal 
 school, which is of some eminence, is a free school, con- 
 ducted by a rector and two assistants. It was endowed 
 in 1723, by John Wallace, Esq., a native of the parish, 
 and a wealthy Glasgow merchant, who left £1600, part 
 of which was to be appropriated to the erection of pre- 
 mises, and the remainder to be invested in land for the 
 master's salary, which at the present time amounts to 
 £.500 a year. In this institution the children of the pa- 
 rish are taught gratuitously all the branches that consti- 
 tute a polite education. The chief relic of antiquity is 
 the castle, a vaulted quadrilateral tower about fifty feet 
 high, thirty-three long, and forty-five broad ; the walls 
 of the ground-floor are twelve feet thick, and from the 
 general style of the building it is conjectured that it must 
 be eight centuries old. There are several large cairns in 
 the parish. 
 
 CLOVA, county of Forfar. — See Cortachy. 
 
 CLUNIE, a parish, in the county of Perth, .5 miles 
 (W. by S.) from Blairgowrie, and 1.5 (N. by E.) from Perth; 
 containing 763 inhabitants. This place, which is of re- 
 mote antiquity, is said to have been the scene of the famous 
 battle between the Caledonians and the Romans under 
 Agricola. In a field near the Hill of Gourdie are still 
 remaining several mounds, in a parallel direction, sepa- 
 rated by trenches of equal length, called the " Steeds 
 Stalls "; and here the advanced guard of the Caledonian 
 army is supposed to have been posted to watch the 
 movements of the Roman army, said to have been en- 
 camped on the plains of Inchtuthill, about two miles to 
 the south. There are also in several places numerous 
 cairns and tumuli, which are generally supposed to have 
 been raised over the bodies of those who fell in the en- 
 gagement. On the summit of an eminence to the west 
 of the loch of Clunie, called the Castle Hill, are some 
 vestiges of a very ancient structure, said to have been a 
 summer palace of Kenneth Mc Alpine, King of the Scots. 
 He conquered the Picts, and united the two kingdoms, 
 213 
 
 the respective boundaries of which are pointed out by 
 two immense heaps of stones, one in the north-west, and 
 the other in the north-east of the parish. The barony 
 anciently belonged to the see of Dunkeld ; and in the 
 year 1500, an episcopal palace was erected upon the 
 ruins of a monastery on an island in the loch of Clunie_, 
 formerly called St. Katherine's island, by Bishop Brown, 
 who died in 1514. This palace, together with the barony, 
 now the property of the Earl of Airlie, was granted by 
 Bishop Crichton about the time of the Reformation to 
 his brother, Sir Robert Crichton, of EUiock Castle, in the 
 county of Dumfries, whose son, the Admirable Crichton, 
 is supposed to have been born here. 
 
 The PARISH, which is intersected by an intervening 
 portion of that of Caputh, is about nine miles in length 
 and four in extreme breadth, and is supposed to contain 
 about 8000 acres, of which nearly 3000 are arable, and 
 the remainder moss, heath, and mountain pasture. Its 
 surface is mountainous, interspersed with considerable 
 tracts of low ground, watered by numerous small streams. 
 The highest of the mountains is Benachally, which in a 
 clear state of the atmosphere commands extensive and 
 beautifully varied prospects ; on its north side are the 
 remains of the forest of Clunie, said to have been a royal 
 forest, and at its base is the loch of Benachally, about a 
 mile in length and half a mile broad. Higher up among 
 the hills is the small lake of Lochnachat, which, like the 
 former, abounds with excellent trout ; and about four 
 mdes to the south is the beautiful loch of Clunie, about 
 two miles and a half in circumference, and eighty-four 
 feet in extreme depth. In this lake are found trout from 
 two to ten pounds in weight, pike from twelve to twenty- 
 four pounds, and perch and eels of large size and ex- 
 cellent quality. Near its western shore is the island 
 whereon the ancient palace was built, the walls of which 
 are nine feet in thickness ; it is in good preservation, 
 and occasionally the residence of the Earl of Airlie. The 
 island is a fine verdant plain, embellished with planta- 
 tions, among which are some ash, plane, and walnut 
 trees of venerable growth. It is mostly artificial ; and 
 in addition to the palace, now Clunie Castle, are some 
 slight remains of an ancient chapel on the isle. 
 
 The SOIL is various, and, though light and gravelly in 
 many parts, produces abundant crops of oats, barley, and 
 wheat, with peas and potatoes of excellent quality ; the 
 system of agriculture is improved, and the annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £5706. The plantations 
 have been greatly increased in extent, and are generally 
 thriving ; they consist chiefly of larch, spruce, and Scotch 
 firs, and many of the lands previously covered with 
 heath and furze are now embellished with well-grown 
 trees. Limestone is found on the lands of Gourdie, and 
 is wrought for agricultural purposes ; there are also 
 some quarries of freestone and slate. Forneth, a seat in 
 the parish, on the north-west side of the loch of Clunie, 
 is beautifully situated on an eminence, at the base of 
 which the Lunan flows into the lake. Gourdie is a spa- 
 cious mansion on high ground a little to the south of the 
 lake, commanding a rich prospect over tlie surrounding 
 country. Williamsburgh is the only village of any im- 
 portance ; the inhabitants are partly employed in hand- 
 loom weaving during the winter. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dunkeld, synod of Perth and Stirling. 
 The minister's stipend is £173, with a manse, and a glebe
 
 C L YD 
 
 CL YN 
 
 valued at £6 per annum ; patrons, the Duke of AthoU 
 and the Earl of Airlie, alternately. Clunie church, erected 
 in 1840, at the expense of the heritors, is a handsome 
 structure in the later English style, with an embattled 
 tower crowned by turrets at the angles, and contains 600 
 sittings. A place of worship has been erected in con- 
 nexion with the Free Church. The parochial school is 
 attended by about forty children ; the master has a 
 salary of £34, with a house, and an allowance in lieu of 
 garden. There is a parochial library, supported by sub- 
 scription. On the eastern acclivity of the mountain of 
 Benachally is a large cavern called the Drop, from the 
 roof of which water is perpetually dropping ; and at the 
 base of the mountain is a sepulchral cairn, to the south 
 of which are numerous smaller cairns. To the north of 
 a hill named Stanley Know is a rising ground called 
 Gallow Drum ; and near the glebe land is another, stjded 
 Gibbet Know : both are supposed to have been places of 
 execution during the feudal times. 
 
 CLUNY, a parish, in the district of Kincardine 
 O'Neil, county of Aberdeen, 1.5 miles distant (W.by N.) 
 from Aberdeen ; containing 959 inhabitants. The name 
 of this place, signifying in Gaelic " meadows interspersed 
 with rising grounds", is descriptive of the appearance of 
 the locality. The parish is about ten miles in length 
 from east to west, and about two in breadth ; the soil is 
 mostly warm and dry, and the lands are intersected by 
 several rivulets, some of them of considerable size, de- 
 scending from the surrounding hills in different directions, 
 and sometimes overflowing the adjacent low grounds. In 
 the western part is a mountain called the Forest of Cor- 
 ranie, forming the boundary of the parish in that direc- 
 tion, and which, though now destitute of wood, was for- 
 merly, it is said, remarkable for a profusion of it. The 
 rent of land averages thirteen shillings per acre ; agri- 
 cultural improvements have been for a considerable time 
 steadily advancing, and the generally level surface is 
 favourable to the operations of husbandry. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £44'25. The 
 gentlemen's seats comprise the Castle of Cluny, erected 
 in the beginning of the fifteenth century, and lately re- 
 built in a superior style ; Castle-Fraser, erected also in 
 the beginning of the fifteenth century ; and the lately 
 built mansion-house of Linton. The produce of the pa- 
 rish is usually sent to Aberdeen, the Skene and Alford 
 turnpike-road passing through, and affording facility for 
 its transit. Many of the inhabitants were formerly em- 
 ployed in the knitting of stockings. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil, synod 
 of Aberdeen ; and the Crown, the proprietor of Cluny, 
 and the proprietor of Castle-Fraser, are patrons in turn, 
 the first exercising patronage on account of half the old 
 parish of Kinnerny having been annexed to Cluny in 
 1743. The minister's stipend is £1*3. 16. "., with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum. The 
 church is a plain substantial edifice, erected in lieu of 
 the former building, which had become ruinous, in 1789. 
 There is a place of worship for members of the Free 
 Church. The parochial school affords instruction in the 
 ordinary branches : the master has a salary of £'Z5. 13. 4., 
 with an allowance for a garden, and £14 fees; he also 
 shares in the Dick bequest, and receives the interest of 
 £200, left by Mr. Robertson, for teaching eight poor 
 children. 
 
 CLYDESDALE. — See Lanarkshire. 
 214 
 
 CL'YNE, a parish, in the county of Sutherland, 
 6 miles (N. E.) from Golspie ; containing, with the vil- 
 lage of Brora, 1765 inhabitants. This parish is about 
 twenty-four miles in length, from north-west to south- 
 east, and from six to eight miles in breadth, comprising 
 65,000 acres. It is bounded on the south-east by the 
 German Ocean. In the well-cultivated district along 
 the coast the surface is tame, but in other parts greatly 
 diversified, presenting the most prominent and charac- 
 teristic features of Highland scenery. The glens and 
 lakes, adorned with natural wood and plantations, as 
 seen from the vicinity of Killean, which also commands 
 a prospect of the abrupt precipices overhanging Loch 
 Brora, and the lofty mountains of Ben-Clibrig, Ben-Or- 
 min, and Ben-Horn, are among the finest portions of this 
 secluded district. Beyond Strath-Brora, however, about 
 nine miles from the coast, the general aspect of the 
 scenery becomes bleak and heathy, with extensive tracts 
 of moor and moss, intersected by numerous rivulets, and 
 lofty ranges of hills. In general the coast is low and 
 sandy, and marked by a ridge of sand hills, covered in 
 the more abrupt parts with bent, and in the others with 
 tolerably good pasture. The river Brora, the principal 
 stream, is celebrated for salmon of a superior size and 
 flavour ; it has its source in the forest of Ben-Clibrig, 
 and after a winding course of thirty miles within the 
 parish, discharges itself into the sea at Brora. The 
 largest sheet of water is Loch Brora, which is about four 
 miles long, and varies from a quarter to half a mile in 
 breadth : its banks are clothed with several clumps of 
 natural wood, and extensive plantations of fir ; and the 
 bold and precipitous Carrol rock, with the mansion-house 
 of Kilcalmkill, contributes to its interesting and beautiful 
 scenery. 
 
 The principal part of the parish consists of high and 
 irreclaimable hill-pasture, and is laid out in extensive 
 sheep-walks ; the sheep are pure Cheviots, to the breed 
 of which great attention is paid, and the total number 
 kept is nearly 11,000. The land in tillage is supposed to 
 comprehend no more than about 1400 acres, of which 
 300 acres are of a sandy loam, forming an excellent 
 turnip soil, and 1100 acres a poor sharp gravel, and un- 
 fit for the production of wheat. Between 200 and 300 
 acres are under plantation. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £2910. The rocks consist 
 chiefly of sandstone, two quarries of which are wrought 
 to a considerable extent ; the material found in one of 
 these is remarkably hard, compact and durable, and con- 
 tains numerous petrifactions of trees, fishes, and shells, 
 which attract the notice of scientific tourists. Coal was 
 wrought near the mouth of the river Brora so far back 
 as 1573, and at several subsequent periods, but the 
 works were discontinued many years ago. The late 
 Duke of Sutherland sank a new pit, and erected the 
 necessary buildings, at a cost of £16,000, and the coal 
 was conveyed to the harbour on a tramroad 800 yards 
 long. Four large salt-pans were also erected, from which 
 salt of a very superior quality was obtained. On the 
 Brora is a salmon-fishery, rented at £300 per annum ; 
 and there are several boats regularly employed in the 
 season in the herring-fishery, which supply the neigh- 
 bourhood with all the ordinary kinds of fish at a very 
 cheap rate. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dornoch and synod of Sutherland and
 
 COAL 
 
 COCK 
 
 Caithness ; patron, the Duke of Sutherland, who is pro- 
 prietor of the whole parish. The stipend is £144. 15. "■ ; 
 aud there is a handsome and commodious manse, with a 
 glebe valued at £12 per annum. Clyne church, a plain 
 structure, was built about the year 1770; it was re- 
 paired and enlarged about 1827, and will accommodate 
 nearly 1000 persons with sittings. A place of worship 
 has been erected in connexion with the Free Church. 
 There is a parochial school, where the ordinary branches 
 of education are taught ; the master has the maximum 
 salary, a house and garden, and a small sum from fees. 
 There is an Assembly's school in the village of Brora : 
 two-thirds of the teacher's salary are paid by the Duke 
 of Sutherland. The chief relic of antiquity is the cele- 
 brated Pictish tower called "Castle Cole", which is the 
 most entire specimen of this kind of tower in the country, 
 excepting that of Dornadilla, in the parish of Durness. 
 It is protected on three sides by the river, and has on 
 the other side a precipice of seventy feet ; the structure 
 is oblong in form, with walls eleven feet thick, without 
 lime or mortar, and appears to have been a place of great 
 strength. 
 
 COALHILL, a village, in the parish of Campbell- 
 town, district of Cantyre, county of Argyll, 3 miles 
 (\V.) from Campbelltown. The village is situated in the 
 western part of the parish, and is inhabited chiefly by 
 persons employed in coal-mines, from which a canal has 
 been constructed, for conveying the produce to the town. 
 A school is supported by the inhabitants. 
 
 COALSNAUGHTON, a village, in the parish of 
 Tillicoultry, county of Clackmannan, 3 miles (N. E.) 
 from Alloa; containing 691 inhabitants. It lies on the 
 road to Stirling, not far from the river Devon, and is 
 inhabited chiefly by colliers. 
 
 COALTON, a village, in the parish of Kettle, dis- 
 trict of Cupar, county of Fife, 1 mile (S. E.) from Bal- 
 malcolm ; containing 84 inhabitants. This village is 
 situated in the hilly part of the parish, and appears to 
 have derived its name from the coal-works which are 
 still carried on here, though not to so great an extent as 
 formerly. The present seam in operation is a kind of 
 blind coal, which is solely used for burning lime ; the 
 produce, amounting in value to no more than about £70 
 per annum, is chiefly sent to the lime-works at Pitlessie. 
 A quarry of freestone has also been opened, and is worked 
 to a limited extent, being used for building purposes, and 
 for the inclosures of several farms in the parish. 
 
 COALTOWN OF BALGONIE, in the parish of 
 Markinch, district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, 
 1 mile (S.) from Markinch; containing 415 inhabitants. 
 This village, which is situated to the west of Balgonie, 
 consists chiefly of cottages, inhabited by persons em- 
 ployed in the collieries from which it takes its name, and 
 in the spinning-mills, bleachfields, and other works in 
 the vicinity. The Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway 
 passes by. 
 
 COALTOWN, EAST, a village, in the parish of 
 Wemyss, district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, 4 miles 
 (N. E.) from Kirkcaldy; containing 165 inhabitants. 
 This village is in the mining district of the parish. It 
 is neatly built, and principally inhabited by persons en- 
 gaged in collieries, which are extensively worked, and 
 afford an abundant supply of fuel for the neighbourhood. 
 
 COALTOWN, WEST, a village, in the parish of 
 Wemyss, district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife; ad- 
 215 
 
 jacent to East Coaltown, and containing 372 inhabitants. 
 It is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in the exten- 
 sive coal- works on the estate of Captain Wemyss, and for « 
 whose accommodation it has been built. 
 
 COALYLAND, a village, in the parish of Alloa, 
 county of Clackmannan, 2 miles (N. by W.) from Alloa; 
 containing 234 inhabitants. It is situated a little south 
 of the road between Aberdonie and Menstry, and derives 
 its name from being the seat of an e.^tensive colliery. The 
 river Devon flows on the north of the village. 
 
 COATBRIDGE, a village, in the late quoad sacra 
 parish of Gartsherrie, parish of Old Monkland, 
 Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 1^ mile (N. W.) 
 from Airdrie; containing 1599 inhabitants. This is a 
 very thriving place, which has more than doubled in ex- 
 tent and population within the last twenty years, owing 
 to the extension of the iron trade in the district, and to 
 its being in the vicinity of valuable coal-mines. The 
 Dundyvan and Summerlee iron- works in the neighbour- 
 hood are conducted on a large scale, and afford employ- 
 ment to a great part of the population. The village is 
 on the road from Airdrie to Glasgow, and the Monkland 
 canal also affords facilities of conveyance. The Gam- 
 kirk and Coatbridge extension of the Garnkirk and Glas- 
 goWrailway was formed under an act passed in 1844, 
 and was opened to the public the following year : it is 
 rather more than a mile long. Ready intercourse is like- 
 wise afforded by the Caledonian, the Kirkintilloch, the 
 Ballochney, and the Wishaw and Coltness lines. A post- 
 office is established here, and there is a place of worship 
 for members of the Free Church. A most elegant insti- 
 tution has been erected for educational purposes by W. 
 Baird, Esq., of Gartsherrie : it has about 300 scholars, 
 under the care of three teachers, two of them male teach- 
 ers for reading, writing, and arithmetic, geography, Latin, 
 Greek, and French, and one a female teacher to instruct 
 in needlework plain and ornamental. 
 
 COATDYKE, a village, in the late quoad sacra parish 
 of Gartsherrie, parish of Old Monkland, Middle 
 ward of county Lanark ; containing 459 inhabitants. 
 This place participates largely in raising the mineral 
 products of the district, iron and coal ; and in the neigh- 
 bourhood are several quarries, including one of white free- 
 stone, the thickness of which is in some parts seventy 
 feet. 
 
 COATS or COTES, EAST and WEST, villages, in 
 the parish of Cambuslang, Middle ward of the county 
 of Lanark; one containing 140 and the other 146 in- 
 habitants, chiefly weavers and colliers. They are seated 
 in the north-western part of the parish, a short distance 
 from the village of Cambuslang. 
 
 COCKBURNSPATH, with Old Cam bus, a parish, 
 in the county of Berwick, 8 miles (S. E.) from Dunbar; 
 containing 1149 inhabitants, of whom about 230 are in 
 the village. This place was anciently called Colbrands- 
 path, from Colbrand, a Danish chieftain who is said to 
 have established himself in this part of the country, and 
 subsequently Cockhurnspath, from its having at a very 
 early period been the baronial seat of the family of 
 Cockburn. It comprises the united parishes whose 
 names it bears, and of which the latter. Old Cambus, 
 was annexed to tlie former at a period not distinctly 
 known. The castle, whether founded by Colbrand or 
 by Cockburn, appears to have formed part of the pos- 
 sessions of Patrick Dunbar, afterwards Earl of Dunbar
 
 COCK 
 
 COCK 
 
 and March, who, when this district was infested by a 
 daring band of robbers, mustered his retainers, and, 
 * attacking them in a body, killed 600 of their number. 
 For this service, the king created him Earl of March, 
 and conferred upon him the lands of Colbrandspath, to- 
 gether with the castle, which, and that of Dunbar, were 
 the most important fortresses in this part of the king- 
 dom. The lands appear to have subsequently been in- 
 cluded in the demesnes of many successive kings, and 
 to have been given as part of the dowry of several of 
 their daughters. They afterwards became the property 
 of the Earl of Home, from whom, about '200 years since, 
 they passed to the Halls. Little more of historical im- 
 portance is recorded in connexion with the place than the 
 passage through the parish of the English army, under 
 the Earl of Hertford, on his invasion of Scotland in the 
 year 1544, and of that under the Earl of Somerset, in 
 the year 154S. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the north-east by the 
 German Ocean, and on the north-west by the county of 
 Haddington, and comprises 9800 acres, of which 5200 
 are arable, 600 in woods and plantations, and the re- 
 mainder hilly pasture and waste. Its surface is greatly 
 diversified with hill and dale, and, in many parts, with 
 narrow deep glens through which small rivulets flo\v in 
 rugged channels into the sea ; the hills are generally of 
 spherical form, and the highest of them are not more 
 than from 500 to 600 feet above the sea. The scenery 
 is in some parts highly romantic ; the glens are distin- 
 guished by a great variety of features, combining rocks 
 and woods, and streams which, frequently obstructed in 
 their progress, form some beautiful cascades. On the 
 precipitous ridge that incloses the Tower glen, are the 
 remains of the ancient castle. The coast is bold and 
 precipitous, and is indented with several small bays, of 
 which the most important and the most picturesque is 
 that named the Cove ; it is completely inclosed, except 
 at the entrance, by precipitous rocks rising to the height 
 of 100 feet, and, by the recent construction of a break- 
 water, has been formed into a very commodious har- 
 bour for fishing-boats. Numerous excavations formed 
 by nature in the rocky shores of the bay, have been ap- 
 propriated as warehouses ; and one of them has been 
 wrought into a tunnel, sixty yards in length, serving as 
 a means of communication with the shore, and affording 
 a facility for landing goods on the quay. 
 
 The SOIL is various ; extremely rich in the immediate 
 vicinity of the sea, and becoming lighter at a greater 
 distance from the coast, till It degenerates into hilly pas- 
 ture. The chief crops are grain of all kinds, potatoes, 
 and turnips; the system of agriculture is in an advanced 
 state, and the rotation plan of husbandry generally prac- 
 tised. Considerable attention is paid to the management 
 of live stock : the sheep are, nearly in equal numbers, of 
 the Leicestershire and Cheviot breeds, the former on the 
 lower lands, and the latter on the higher ; some are of 
 a cross between the two. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £8648. The woods and planta- 
 tions are mostly of oak, for which the soil appears to 
 be peculiarly favourable, beech, Spanish chesnut, ash, 
 Scotch fir, larch, and sycamore. The substrata are grey- 
 wacke, greywacke-slate, and sandstone, the last of which 
 is quarried ; it is of a coarse quality, and of the old red 
 formation, being chiefly valuable for its property of with- 
 standing the action of heat. 
 '216 
 
 The VILLAGE, which had fallen into a state of neglect, 
 was some time ago greatly improved under the patronage 
 of Lady Helen Hall ; it is partly inhabited by persons 
 employed in the fishery, and contains a subscription li- 
 brary of considerable size. Great facility of communi- 
 cation is afforded by the road from Edinburgh to Lon- 
 don, and by the North-British railway, which both pass 
 through the parish. There are several handsome and 
 picturesque bridges over the deep ravines. The Pease 
 bridge, of four arches, about a mile and a half from the 
 village, is strikingly romantic in its appearance; it is 
 300 feet in length, and nearly 130 feet above the bottom 
 of the ravine. Another bridge, over the Dunglass glen, 
 of modern construction and of great beauty, has one spa- 
 cious arch, spanning the ravine at an elevation of ninety 
 feet above the stream that flows beneath it : from the 
 battlements of the bridge is obtained a prospect almost 
 unrivalled for extent and beauty. A few hundred feet 
 further down the glen, another bridge, of great elegance, 
 having one magnificent arch, with five land arches, and ex- 
 ceeding the Pease bridge in height, carries the line of the 
 North-British railway over the ravine. A fair, chiefly for 
 toys, is held on the second Tuesday in August. A consi- 
 derable fishery is carried on at Cove, the fish taken being 
 cod, haddocks, whiting, ling, skate, halibut, and turbot. 
 Lobsters and crabs are taken in abundance in the season, 
 and are sent, by shipping from the port of Dunbar, to 
 London. Herrings, also, were formerly caught in pro- 
 fusion, but of late years few have appeared on this part 
 of the coast. A convenient harbour was constructed in 
 1831, for the accommodation of the fishing-boats, and 
 capable also of affording shelter to vessels of larger bur- 
 then, several of which, laden with coal, and bone-dust 
 for manure, frequently put in here, and deliver their 
 cargoes. The expense of completing the harbour, which 
 was very considerable, was defrayed partly by govern- 
 ment, and partly by Sir John Hall, Bart. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Dunbar, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and in the 
 patronage of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is £245. 
 13. 3., with a manse, offices, and garden, and the glebe 
 is valued at £27 per annum. The church, a very an- 
 cient structure with a round tower, and apparently built 
 in the twelfth century, was fully repaired in 180*, and 
 reseated in 1826. There is a place of worship in the pa- 
 rish for the United Presbyterian Synod. The parochial 
 school affords instruction to about ninety scholars ; the 
 master has a salary of £30, with £45 fees, and a house 
 and garden. Here are several vestiges of ancient forti- 
 fications, the chief of which are on Ervieside hill, and 
 on the ridge of Dunglass Den. Many urns also, of Ro- 
 man pottery, have been at various times discovered by 
 the plough. In the centre of the parish are the ruins of 
 the castle of Cockburnspath, apparently erected to de- 
 fend the pass of the ravine at the entrance of which it is 
 situated ; and in the Old Cambus district are the ruins 
 of an ancient church formerly connected with the priory 
 of Coldingham, seated on a lofty precipice overlooking 
 the sea. It was dedicated to St. Helen, and is said to 
 have been erected, in gratitude for their preservation, by 
 three Northumbrian princesses, who, fleeing into Scotland 
 for refuge, were wrecked on this part of the coast. 
 
 COCKENZIE, late a quoad sacra parish, including 
 the villages of Meadowmill and Portseaton in the parish 
 of Tranent, and part of the parish of Prestonpans,
 
 COCK 
 
 COLD 
 
 in the county of Haddington ; the whole containing 
 1061 inhabitants, of whom 5/0 are in the village of 
 Cockenzie, 1 mile (N. E.) from Prestonpans. This vil- 
 lage, which is situated on the shore of the Firth of Forth, 
 is almost wholly inhabited by fishermen, who during the 
 winter are chiefly employed in procuring supplies for the 
 markets of Edinburgh and Glasgow, and in the spring 
 engage in the whale-fisheries of Greenland. The fish 
 taken here are cod, whitings, flounders, and oysters, of 
 which last there are beds of excellent quality ; and in 
 summer those who have not engaged themselves in the 
 whale-fishery go to Caithness for herrings, which they 
 take in large quantities, and sell to the curers. In 
 autumn, they are employed in dredging oysters, and 
 catching such herrings and other fish as appear in the 
 Firth. The number of boats belonging to the fishery is 
 thirty, of which ten are of sixteen tons' and twenty- 
 one of seven tons' burthen ; they are all without decks, 
 but well and strongly built, and capable of enduring a 
 very heavy sea. A considerable foreign and coasting 
 trade is also carried on, in which two vessels, of 100 
 and 120 tons respectively, belonging to this place, are 
 regularly employed ; the number of other ships annually 
 entering and leaving the harbour averages from 250 to 
 300, of the aggregate burthen of 20,000 tons. The 
 harbour was constructed in 1S35, by Messrs. Cadell, at 
 an expense of £6000 ; it is easily accessible at all times 
 of the tide, and affords great security to numerous 
 vessels driven in by stress of weather. It has sixteen 
 feet depth of water at spring, and ten feet at neap, tides ; 
 and though formed more especially for shipping the 
 produce of the collieries, from which an iron tramway 
 has been laid down to the port by the proprietors, it has 
 been of great benefit to the fishery of the place. In 1S46 
 an act of parliament was passed authorising the con- 
 struction of a branch of nearly a mile and a quarter, to 
 Cockenzie harbour, of the North-British railway. A mill 
 for grinding bones and rape-cakes, chiefly brought from 
 Germany, for manure, is driven by steam, and employs 
 a small number of the inhabitants not engaged in the 
 fisheries ; there are also some salt-works in the district. 
 A fair, formerly of some importance, but now chiefly 
 for toys, is held in November. The church was erected 
 in 1838, by subscription, chiefly through the instrumen- 
 tality of H. F. Cadell, Esq., aided by grants from the 
 General Assembly's and East-Lothian Church-Exten- 
 sion Societies, and a contribution of £150 raised by the 
 Rev. A. Forman, of Innerwick. It is a neat edifice, 
 built at an expense of about £600, adapted for a con- 
 gregation of 450 persons, and capable of being enlarged 
 by the erection of galleries. A school is supported by 
 subscription. 
 
 COCKPEN, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh, 
 3 miles (S. by W.) from Dalkeith ; containing, with 
 the villages of Bonnyrigg, Dalhousie, Gowkshill, Hill- 
 head, Hunterfield, Polton-Street, Prestonholme, Skiltie- 
 muir, Stobhill-Engine, and Westniill, 2345 inhabitants, 
 of whom 709 are in the rural districts. This place, 
 which is on the river South Esk, is supposed to have 
 derived its name from the situation of the church upon 
 an eminence, and the prevailing colour of the soil. It 
 comprises chiefly the barony of Dalhousie, the property 
 of the ancient family of Ramsay, of whom William, 
 Lord Ramsay, was created Earl of Dalhousie by Charles 
 I. in 1633. There are still some remains of the ancient 
 Vol. I.— 217 
 
 baronial residence of Dalhousie, which was a quad- 
 rangular structure with angular towers, and one of the 
 strongest fortresses in this part of the country ; and 
 though altered into a slightly castellated mansion as a 
 family residence, it still retains some vestiges of its 
 ancient character. The parish is about three miles 
 and a half in length, and two and a half in extreme 
 breadth. Its surface is pleasingly undulated, and the 
 prevailing scenery abounds with interesting features. 
 The banks of the South Esk, which intersects the south- 
 ern part of the parish, are crowned with ancient wood ; 
 and the various other streamlets that flow through the 
 lands, add greatly to the beauty of the landscape. The 
 soil is generally a strong clay, well adapted to the 
 growth of grain, and, under good cultivation, yielding 
 crops of wheat, barley, oats, and peas, with a few pota- 
 toes and turnips. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £8801. The plantations, which are exten- 
 sive, abound with every variety of trees and ornamental 
 shrubs, and are in a highly flourishing condition. In 
 this parish the substrata are chiefly coal, which is very 
 abundant, and limestone and freestone of excellent 
 quality, which are extensively quarried : copperas, also, 
 has been obtained. 
 
 The ancient castle of Dalhousie is beautifully situated 
 on an eminence overlooking the river Esk ; it was 
 modernised by the late earl, and the pleasure-grounds 
 have been tastefully laid out in walks, and embellished 
 with shrubs and plantations. On the opposite bank of 
 the river was the ancient mansion-house of Cockpen, 
 purchased, within the last few years, by the earl, from 
 Mr. Baron Cockburn, by whom the adjacent lands had 
 been greatly improved ; only some of the walls are now 
 standing, which give a truly romantic character to the 
 scenery. The village of Cockpen lies upon the western 
 bank of the South Esk, over which is a handsome bridge 
 of stone, affording facility of communication ; and the 
 Edinburgh and Hawick railway skirts the eastern boun- 
 dary of the parish. In the several villages are various 
 works. Eccclesiastically, Cockpen is within the bounds 
 of the presbytery of Dalkeith and synod of Lothian and 
 Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is £157, of which 
 £24 are paid from the exchequer ; with a manse and a 
 glebe valued at £21 per annum : patron, the Marquess 
 of Dalhousie. The church, erected in 1820, is a neat 
 plain structure, containing 625 sittings. There is a place 
 of worship for the Free Church. The parochial school 
 is well conducted ; the master has a salary of £34, with 
 a house and garden, and the fees average £28. 
 
 COLDINGHAM, a parish, in the county of Ber- 
 wick ; including the late quoad sacra district of Hound- 
 wood ; and containing about 2830 inhabitants, of whom 
 a considerable portion reside in the village of Colding- 
 ham, 3 miles (N. N. E.) from Reston, which is on the 
 London and Edinburgh road and the North-British rail- 
 way. This place, the name of which is of doubtful de- 
 rivation, has a claim to remote antiquity, and seems 
 to have originally acquired distinction from the erec- 
 tion of a nunnery, in the seventh century, by Ebba, 
 daughter of Ethelfrith, King of Northumbria. To escape 
 from the solicitations of Penda, King of Mercia, who 
 sought to obtain her in marriage, she resolved to leave 
 her father's kingdom, and, embarking for that purpose, 
 was driven by a storm on the promontory of this coast, 
 which from her derived its name of St. Abb's Head. 
 
 « F
 
 COLD 
 
 COLD 
 
 The convent that she founded here, appears to have 
 subsisted till the year S37, when it was plundered and 
 burnt by the Danes, who inhumanly massacred the 
 whole sisterhood. Some slender remains of its chapel 
 existed till about the middle of the last century ; but, 
 the cemetery surrounding it being again appropriated as 
 a burying-place, they were soon afterwards destroyed. 
 
 The MONASTERY of Coldingham is said to have been 
 founded by Edgar, King of Scotland, about the year 
 1100, though other writers refer its foundation to a 
 period anterior to that of the nunnery of St. Ebba, in 
 the destruction of which by the Danes they say it par- 
 ticipated, and that it was only rebuilt by Edgar. That 
 monarch, being driven from his throne, fled to England, 
 where he obtained from William Rufus an army of 50,000 
 men, for the recovery of his dominions, and from the 
 abbot of Durham the consecrated banner of St. Cuthbert, 
 to aid him in reducing his rebellious subjects to obedi- 
 ence. Having succeeded in re-establishing his kingdom, 
 Edgar founded or refounded the monastery, which he 
 dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and made a cell to the 
 abbey of Durham, from which establishment he placed 
 in it a prior and brethren of the order of St. Benedict. 
 The priory continued to flourish in uninterrupted pros- 
 perity from this time, with the munificent patronage 
 of Edgar's successors, till the reign of Robert III., 
 under whose weak government, and during the regency 
 of the Duke of Albany, the monks placed themselves be- 
 neath the protection of the family of Douglas, of whom 
 the laird of Home became its sub-prior. Not long 
 afterwards, James HI. obtained the concurrence of the 
 parliament for the suppression of the priory, the reve- 
 nues of which he wished to appropriate to the endow- 
 ment of the chapel royal of Stirling, which he had 
 founded ; but their proceedings excited an insurrection 
 of the Homes, which terminated in the defeat and death 
 of that monarch, who was killed in battle, near Stirling, 
 in 1488. The priory, in 1509, was separated from 
 Durham by a decree of the pope, and annexed to the 
 abbey of Dunfermline, whose abbot, Alexander Stuart, 
 a natural son of James IV., and also archbishop of St. 
 Andrew's, who fell fighting by his father's side at the 
 battle of Flodden-Field, became prior. After the death 
 of Alexander Stuart, David, brother of Lord Home, was 
 made prior of Coldingham. In 1.^44 the priory was 
 seized by the English, who fortified and retained pos- 
 session of it, against all the efforts of the Earlof Arran, 
 regent of Scotland, for its recovery ; and in the fol- 
 lowing year it was plundered and burnt by the Earl of 
 Hertford, after which calamity it never regained its 
 ancient wealth and importance. During the usurpation 
 of Cromwell, it was defended against the assaults of his 
 troops, by a party of royalists who had intrenched 
 themselves within the walls, and who vigorously re- 
 pulsed the first detachment sent against them. Crom- 
 well, however, bringing up in person a stronger force, 
 with several pieces of cannon, shook it to its foundation, 
 and compelled the royalists to capitulate ; and to pre- 
 vent it from again becoming an obstacle to his success, 
 he blew up the church with gunpowder, leaving only 
 one of the walls standing. 
 
 The PARISH, which is about twelve miles in extreme 
 
 length, and nine in breadth, is bounded on the north 
 
 and north-east by the sea and the Firth of Forth. Its 
 
 surface is diversified with hills and valleys : a portion 
 
 318 
 
 of the range of the Lammermoor hills traverses it, in a 
 direction from east to west, and the highest elevation, 
 ■VN'ardlaw Bank, is 640 feet above the sea. The valleys 
 are watered by various streams, the most important 
 being the river Eye, which, after flowing with a gentle 
 current through the whole extent of the parish, falls 
 into the ocean at Eyemouth. The only lake is that of 
 Coldingham, about a mile west of St. Abb's Head, a fine 
 expanse of water covering thirty acres of ground, within 
 300 yards of the coast, and having an elevation of 100 
 yards above the sea ; it is circumscribed by sloping 
 banks of barren rocky aspect, incapable of plantation, 
 and abounds with perch, the only kind of fish it contains. 
 The coast, near St. Abb's Head, is rocky and precipi- 
 tous, and indented with numerous caves excavated in 
 the rock, some of them of large extent, and with na- 
 tural fissures, inaccessible from the land, and only to be 
 entered from the sea at low water, and in calm weather. 
 
 The SOIL is various, and, in some parts of the parish, 
 fertile ; but there are large tracts of barren land, in- 
 capable of being brought into cultivation. The whole 
 number of acres is estimated at about 57,000, of which 
 6000 are moor and waste, about 500 in woods and 
 plantations, and the remainder, in nearly equal portions, 
 arable and pasture. The chief crops are grain of various 
 kinds, potatoes, and turnips, and the system of agricul- 
 ture is improved ; many cattle are fattened here, and 
 driven south, and great numbers of sheep are reared. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £19,770. 
 The natural woods consist mostly of oak, elm, and birch ; 
 and the plantations of the various kinds of fir, intermixed 
 with the usual forest-trees. Throughout the parish the 
 rocks are of the transition formation, and the principal 
 substrata are greywacke and greywacke-slate ; the pro- 
 montory of St. Abb's Head is one mass of trap rock, 
 composed mainly of trap tuffa, amygdaloid, and por- 
 phyritic felspar. A lucrative fishery is carried on, for 
 which purpose a small harbour was constructed in 1833 
 at Northfield, about a mile from the village, at an ex- 
 pense of £1'200, of which sum about one-fourth was 
 raised by subscription, and the remainder was granted 
 by government. The fish taken off the coast are cod, 
 haddock, turbot, and lobsters ; and about seven boats 
 are regularly employed, affording support to thirty-six 
 families, of which number twenty-nine live in the 
 hamlet of Northfield. The cod is pickled, the haddocks 
 smoked, and the turbot and lobsters sent alive to the 
 London market The village of Coldingham is pleasantly 
 situated, and contains many neatly-built houses ; a 
 library is supported by subscription, forming a collection 
 of more than 400 volumes of standard works. The 
 weaving of cotton affords employment to above thirty 
 persons. At Reston, in the parish, the Dunse branch 
 of the North-British railway quits the main line. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Chirnside, synod of Merse 
 and Teviotdale ; patron, the Crown. The stipend of the 
 incumbent is £267 ; the manse was built in 1801, and 
 enlarged in 1828, and the glebe is valued at £25 per 
 annum. Coldingham church, which is a portion of the 
 ancient monastery, was repaired in 1662, and is well 
 adapted for a congregation of 827 persons. There is a 
 place of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod. 
 Two parochial schools are held ; the masters have each 
 a salary of £25, >yith a bouse and garden, and fees.
 
 COLD 
 
 COLD 
 
 The remains of the priory, though dreadfully mutilated, 
 still display some memorials of original magnificence; 
 they contain fragments of the richest details in the Nor- 
 man style, from its earliest period to its transition into 
 the early English. The north wall of the church was 
 formerly covered with series of intersecting arches, 
 springing from corbels enriched with canopies ; but the 
 shafts of the intercoiumniations have been cut away, 
 and the whole wretchedly disfigured. The triforium, 
 however, of five elegantly-designed windows, separated 
 by alternate ranges of plain and clustered columns, sup- 
 porting richly-moulded arches of graceful form, is still 
 tolerably entire ; and various other portions, of elaborate 
 design, may still be traced. Upon a peninsular rock 
 projecting into the sea, about two miles to the west of 
 St. Abb's Head, are the ruins of Fast Castle, connected 
 with the mainland by a narrow isthmus, which, for 
 greater security, was cut away, and in its place a draw- 
 bridge substituted. By whom it was originally founded 
 is not clearly ascertained : it belonged to the family of 
 Logan of Restalrigg, one of whom, proprietor at the 
 time of Cowrie's conspiracy, was, several years after his 
 death, tried and condemned for the part he took in that 
 transaction, and his estates were forfeited to the crown, 
 and subsequently conferred upon the Earl of Dunbar. 
 It is visited chiefly for the grand prospect it embraces 
 over the German Ocean. There were numerous other 
 strongholds in the parish, of which the names of Lang- 
 ton Tower, Heughead, Renton, and Houndwood (the 
 hunting-seat of the prior of Coldingham) only are re- 
 corded. On the hill to the west of St. Abb's Head are 
 vestiges of a Roman camp, and on another the remains 
 of a British camp, defended on three sides by lofty 
 ramparts ; and on the summit of Wardlaw Bank are 
 traces both of a Roman and a British camp, now nearly 
 obliterated by the plough. 
 
 COLDSTREAM, a burgh of barony, a market-town, 
 and parish, iu the county of Berwick, 14 miles (S. W.) 
 from Berwick ; containing 2857 inhabitants, of whom 
 19J3 are iu the town, and 150 in the village of New 
 Coldstream. The parish was originally called Leinhal, 
 or Lennel, a name of Saxon etymology, signifying " a 
 great hall ", and supposed to have been derived from the 
 foundation of a Cistercian nunnery by Cospatrick, Earl 
 of March, in the early part of the twelfth century. The 
 small village of Lennel, which soon afterwards arose 
 round the priory, being exposed from its situation to 
 hostile incursions during the wars of the Border, suffered 
 continual depredations, and was ultimately destroyed by 
 the English ; not a vestige of it is left, nor can even 
 the site be distinctly pointed out. The monastery flou- 
 rished till the general dissolution, when its revenues 
 amounted to £201 in money, three chalders, eleven bolls, 
 two firlots, three and a half pecks of wheat, the same 
 quantity of bear, and also of meal. It was beautifully 
 situated near the confluence of the river Leet with the 
 Tweed, and was of considerable importance, but only 
 one solitary vault is now remaining. During the inter- 
 regnum. General Monk, who had fixed his head-quarters 
 at this place, raised a regiment of infantry here, which 
 accompanied him on his return to England for the res- 
 toration of the exiled monarch, and which is still dis- 
 tinguished as the Coldstream regiment of guards. After 
 the decay of the village of Lennel, a new church was 
 erected, in 17 16, at Coldstream, in the more populous 
 219 
 
 district of the parish ; and to this circumstance may be 
 attributed the increase of the town. 
 
 The TOWN is pleasantly situated on the river Tweed, 
 over which is a handsome stone bridge of five arches, 
 that connects it with England ; and affording an ap- 
 proach to it on the west, is a bridge of one arch over the 
 river Leet. It is neatly built ; the streets are lighted 
 and cleansed, and the inhabitants are supplied with 
 water, under the regulations of the Police act. A public 
 library is supported by subscription, containing a good 
 collection of works on general literature ; and there are 
 two other subscription libraries, for the use of mechanics 
 and the working classes. No manufactures are carried 
 on in the town : the principal trade of the place consists 
 in furnishing coal and various other articles for the 
 neighbourhood. The market, which is well supplied 
 with grain, is on Thursday ; and there is also a monthly 
 market, for the sale of cattle and sheep, which is nu- 
 merously attended. A salmon-fishery on the Tweed here 
 was formerly extensive ; but the fish have within the last 
 few years very much diminished, and the whole rental 
 at present is scarcely £100 per annum. The town is 
 governed by a baron-bailie, appointed by the superiors 
 of the two baronies of Coldstream and Hirsel, in which 
 it is situated. His jurisdiction extends to civil and 
 criminal cases, for the determination of which he holds 
 courts at stated periods : the average annual number of 
 civil causes determined is about thirty, and of criminal 
 cases, about six ; but the latter are chiefly offences 
 against the police of the town, to which the bailie confines 
 himself, referring important matters to the procurator- 
 fiscal for the county. There is a small prison for the con- 
 finement of persons previously to their committal. 
 
 The PARISH, which is situated nearly at an equal dis- 
 tance between the Cheviot and the Lammermoor hills, 
 is from seven to eight miles in length, and rather more 
 than four in average breadth. Its surface is generally 
 level, diversified only by some gentle elevations ; the 
 scenery is pleasingly varied, and richly embellished with 
 woods and plantations. The only streams that have 
 their source here, are the Gradenburn and Shiellsburn, 
 which, after traversing the parish, fall into the river 
 Tweed, its southern boundary ; the only lake is one of 
 artificial construction, in the pleasure-grounds of Hirsel. 
 In this parish the soil is mostly rich, especially near the 
 rivers, in proportion to the distance from which is its 
 tendency to clay. The number of acres in tillage is 8000, 
 and the chief crops are, grain of all kinds, for which the 
 soil is well adapted ; potatoes ; and turnips, which last 
 are extensively cultivated. The system of agriculture is 
 in a highly advanced state ; bone-dust is applied as 
 manure, and all the more recent improvements in hus- 
 bandry are in use. Great attention is paid to live stock ; 
 the cattle, with the exception of a few of the Highland 
 breed, are all the Teeswater or short-horned, and the 
 sheep are of the Cheviot and Leicestershire breeds. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £15,31". 
 The woods are chiefly of oak, birch, beech, ash, and elm ; 
 and the plantations, Scotch and spruce firs, intermixed 
 with the usual forest-trees : larch is not found to thrive 
 in the soil, and consequently very few trees of that sort 
 are planted ; but all the other kinds seem well adapted 
 to the land, and are iu a prosperous state. The sub- 
 strata are white sandstone, clay-marl, reddish sandstone, 
 limestone, and gypsum. Of these, the white sandstone 
 
 o F2
 
 COLI 
 
 COLI 
 
 or freestone is of very excelleat quality for building, and 
 is extensively quarried in several parts of the parish. 
 The red sandstone is also quarried, but not to any great 
 extent; the limestone is of inferior quality, and, though 
 quarried in some places for the roads, is not burnt into 
 lime. The gypsum is found chiefly on the banks of the 
 Leet, where it occurs in nodules of a reddish hue, and 
 at Milne-Graden, where, in boring for coal some years 
 since, it was discovered in thin veins of a whitish colour. 
 Among the minerals are crystals of quartz, calcareous 
 spar, phrenite, and sulphate of lime ; and the strata of 
 the district contain various fossil remains. Of the seats 
 in the parish are, Lennel House, the property of the Earl 
 of Haddington, lord of the barony of Coldstream, a hand- 
 some mansion of modern character ; and Hirsel, the seat 
 of the Earl of Home, lord of the barony of Hirsel, an 
 elegant mansion of white stone, erected with materials 
 from a quarry iu the parish. In the grounds of the 
 latter is a lake of considerable dimensions ; and at the 
 base of an acclivity rising from the bank of the Leet, and 
 richly wooded, a monument was erected by a late Lord 
 Home to the memory of his eldest son, who died in 
 America, of his wounds in the battle of Camden ; the 
 design is a reduced imitation of the obelisk of Mattheus at 
 Rome. The seats of the Lees, Milne-Graden, and Castle- 
 law are also mansions of white freestone. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Cbirnside, synod of Merse 
 and Teviotdale ; patron, the Earl of Haddington. The 
 stipend of the incumbent is £'233 ; the manse is a com- 
 fortable residence, erected in 1830, and the glebe com- 
 prises eleven acres of land, valued at £40 per annum. 
 The chunh, erected in the year 179^. 's a substantial 
 edifice, adapted for a congregation of 1100 persons. 
 There are places of worship for the United Presbyterian 
 Synod. The parochial school affords instruction to about 
 120 children ; the master has a salary of £34, with a 
 house and garden, and the fees average £'5 per annum. 
 The late John Bell, Esq., bequeathed £.500 for the in- 
 struction of poor children of the town, and also £300 for 
 supplying them with clothing on their leaving school. 
 Stone coffins have been found, and quantities of human 
 bones, in the grounds of Hirsel, and near the junction of 
 the Leet and Tweed,where the ancient abbey was situated. 
 The bones thus found are supposed to be the remains of 
 warriors slain in the battle of Flodden-Field, the most 
 illustrious of whom were conveyed to Coldstream by 
 order of the abbess, and interred in the abbey cemetery. 
 Several ancient coins also, of the reigns of the Jameses, 
 have been discovered in the grounds of Milne-Graden. 
 Patrick Brydone, Esq., author of a Tout in Sicily and 
 Malta, and for many years resident in the old mansion 
 of Lennel House, was buried in the ancient church of 
 Lennel, of which there are still some vestiges. 
 
 COLINSBURGH, a market-town, in the parish of 
 KiLCONauH.\R, district of St. Andrew's, county of 
 Fife, 10 miles (S. by E.) from Cupar, and '2Si (N. E. by 
 N.) from Edinburgh ; containing 482 inhabitants. This 
 place is pleasantly situated in the south of the parish, 
 and on the great road from the eastern to the western 
 part of the county along the southern coast. It is neatly 
 built, and inhabited chiefly by persons employed in trade 
 for the supply of the parish with various articles of 
 merchandise, and in weaving for the manufacturers of 
 Dundee, Kirkcaldy, and other towns. The currying 
 220 
 
 trade is also carried on, by a company who are proprie- 
 tors of the tannery at Kilconquhar, and who manufacture 
 leather to the amount of £15,000 per annum, and afford 
 employment to about twenty-four persons. The market, 
 which is a large mart for grain, is held on Wednesday, 
 and is numerously attended by farmers and dealers from 
 the neighbourhood ; the corn is sold by sample, and 
 considerable quantities are forwarded to Edinburgh, 
 Glasgow, and other ports, for exportation. Fairs are 
 held in June and October, for cattle ; and iu March, when 
 the East Fife Agricultural Society hold their meeting in 
 the town, there is a public market at which great num- 
 bers of cattle are exposed for sale. Colinsburgh is a 
 burgh of barony under the family of Lindsay, Earls of 
 Balcarres, from whose ancestor, Colin, third earl, the 
 place derived its name. In the immediate vicinity is the 
 elegant residence of Balcarres House ; and overhanging 
 it, appears the Crag of Balcarres, which confers the title, 
 and is a rock of considerable altitude. The present earl 
 is the acknowledged chief of the very ancient house of 
 Lindsay, many of the members of which have been in- 
 terred in the old chapel near the mansion. A school has 
 been established. 
 
 COLINTON, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh, 
 including the villages of Hailes-Quarry, Juniper-Green, 
 Longstone, Slateford, and Swanston ; and containing 
 2195 inhabitants, of whom 120 are in the village of 
 Colinton, 4 miles (S. W.) from Edinburgh. The name 
 of this place, sometimes written Colington, was formerly 
 Hailes, a word signifying " mounds " or " hillocks ", and 
 accurately descriptive of the appearance of the surface 
 of the parish. About the close of the 17th century the 
 designation Colinton chiefly prevailed, having for some 
 time previously been used iu honour of a family of that 
 name, who had come into possession of the greater part 
 of the parish. The district appears to have been in remote 
 times the scene of important military operations ; there 
 were remains of a large encampment lately existing on 
 the lands of Comiston, and in the same vicinity were until 
 lately some extensive cairns, whence fragments of old 
 implements of war had been taken. The Kel Stane, " the 
 stone of the battle ", which is a large upright stone, from 
 time immemorial also called Camus Stone, renders it 
 probable that this spot was originally the encampment of 
 some Danish forces. In the barony of Redhall formerly 
 stood a strong castle, which, in 1572, was garrisoned by 
 the regent Mar, and the king's party. In 1650, it was 
 defended vigorously against Cromwell and his army, bv 
 the laird and his veteran band, and upon the castle being 
 taken, the laird was commended by Cromwell for his 
 bravery, and set at liberty. The ecclesiastical memorials 
 of the parish reach back to the llth or 12th century; 
 the lands were then granted to the monks of Dunfermline 
 by Ethelred, son of Malcolm Canmore, and confirmed 
 to them by his brother David I., and in 1234 by Pope 
 Gregory. The vicarage, however, was taken from the 
 monks, and given first to the canons of Holyrood, and 
 afterwards to the canons of St. Anthony at Leith, by 
 Kennedy, Bishop of St. Andrew's, in the 15th century. 
 The superiority of the lands of Wester Hailes remained 
 with the canons till the Reformation, and that of Easter 
 Hailes continued with the monks of Dunfermline till the 
 same period. 
 
 The PARISH is of an irregular form, about three and 
 a half miles in length from north to south, and about
 
 COL I 
 
 COLL 
 
 three miles in breadth from east to west, and containing 
 5070 acres. The surface and scenery are richly diver- 
 sified, presenting on the south-eastern boundary the 
 northern range of the Peutland hills, rising I6OO feet 
 above the sea, and from the skirts of which the ground 
 slopes gradually to the level of the Water of Leith, which 
 flows through the lower part of the parish. Colinton 
 dell, on the bani<s of the Leith, is remarl^able for its 
 beauties. In the direction of the north-east, the eleva- 
 tions of the Fir hill and Craig-Lockhart hill form an 
 interruption to the general declivity, and supply romantic 
 features in the landscape, which is enriched by elegant 
 mansions surrounded by gardens and plantations. The 
 distant views from the higher lands embrace the capital 
 with its numerous spires and romantic castle, the Firth 
 of Forth and the coast of Fife, tlie Ochils, and the cele- 
 brated Grampians, which last bound the prospect in the 
 north-west. The Water of Leith, which is the principal 
 stream, though subject to repeated sinkings and swell- 
 ings, is used to a great extent for the purposes of com- 
 merce and domestic convenience, turning no less than 
 sixteen mills, and having a considerable bleachfield on 
 its banks. There is also a variety of copious and excel- 
 lent springs, from which, for a very long period, water 
 was conducted in a regular and uniform manner for the 
 supply of Edinburgh. 
 
 About 3436 acres are either in tillage or fit for tillage; 
 1356 are hilly grounds under pasture, and 278 are in 
 plantations. The arable lands lie from 250 to 600 feet 
 above the level of the sea, and produce good crops of all 
 kinds of grain, potatoes, turnips, beans, peas, &c. Few 
 sheep are kept, except on the Pentland hills and on 
 Craig-Lockhart, consisting chiefly of Cheviots, with a 
 few Leicesters ; the number of cattle reared is likewise 
 small. Very considerable improvements in husbandry 
 have been made of late years, chiefly by deep draining, 
 and a proper system of cropping. A.s, however, a large 
 proportion of the ground rests upon a subsoil of stiff 
 clay, the furrow drain and deep plough are still requisite, 
 to facilitate the productive powers of the land. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £12,314. 
 The great abundance and variety of the subterraneous 
 contents of the parish give it altogether an interesting 
 geological character. The Pentland hills consist of clay- 
 stone, porphyry, and felspar-porphyry ; the crags of 
 Caerketan are clayey felspar, strongly mixed with black 
 oxide of iron. Among the Pentlands are also found 
 boulders of granite, gneiss, &c., with jaspers and malac- 
 tite. Craig-Lockhart hill is basaltic rock, and the bed 
 of the Leith Water abounds with highly interesting 
 mineral productions, among which are fossil remains of 
 fishes and vegetables. There are two freestone- quarries, 
 large quantities of the contents of which have at different 
 times been conveyed to Edinburgh for building materials ; 
 the value of one of the quarries to the lessor, some years 
 ago, was £9000 a year, but at present it is not more than 
 £1500. 
 
 Several beautiful mansions adorn the parish. Colinton 
 House was built in the beginning of the present century, 
 and is agreeably situated, commanding extensive pros- 
 pects to the north and east. Dreghorn Castle, built 
 about the same time, stands encompassed by plantations, 
 and is also adorned with some ancient beech-trees, con- 
 ferring a venerable and majestic appearance. Comiston 
 House and Craig-Lockhart House were both built but a 
 221 
 
 few years ago, and are pleasantly situated, especially the 
 latter, having for its site a wooded bank gently declining 
 to the margin of the Leith Water. In a hollow which 
 commands the pass through the Pentland hills stands a 
 Peel tower, in the midst of beautifully romantic scenery : 
 it was built by Lord Cockburn as an addition to the 
 small house at Bonally, and forms a very interesting 
 feature. The villages of Colinton and Slateford have 
 each a post-oflice. Facility of communication is afforded 
 by the road from Edinburgh to Lanark ; by the Cale- 
 donian railway, which has a station at Slateford ; and 
 by the Union canal. Of the mills ten are meal-mills, 
 one is for sawing wood, another for beating hemp and 
 lint, one for grinding magnesia, and the others are em- 
 ployed in the paper manufacture, which has existed in 
 Colinton for upwards of a century. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of Edin- 
 burgh and synod of Lothian and Tvi'eeddale ; patrons, 
 the whole communicants in the parish who belong to 
 the Established Church. The minister's stipend is about 
 £221, with a manse, and a glebe let at £27 per annum. 
 The church, which is very ancient, is beautifully situated 
 in the vicinity of Colinton House; it was rebuilt in I771, 
 in I8I7 was new-roofed, and in the year 1S37 was en- 
 larged and re-seated. There is a place of worship for 
 members of the Free Church near Juniper-Green, and 
 at Slateford is a meeting-house for the United Presby- 
 terian Synod. A parochial school is supported, in which 
 the ordinary branches of education are taught, and clas- 
 sical and mathematical instruction, with French, maybe 
 obtained ; the master's salary is £34, exclusively of fees, 
 &c., and a house and garden. There are two libraries ; 
 and a gardeners' society awards small premiums for the 
 superior cultivation of vegetables, fruits, and flowers. 
 
 COLL ISLE, Argyllshire. — See Tiree. 
 
 COLLAGE, a parish, in the county of Perth ; in- 
 cluding the villages of Kinrossie and Saucher, and con- 
 taining 702 inhabitants, of whom 191 are in the village 
 of Collace, 7 miles (N. E.) from Perth. Collace is chiefly 
 celebrated as having been the residence of the well-known 
 Macbeth, Thane of Glammis, who had a castle in the 
 parish, on the hill of Dunsinnan, a lofty and insulated 
 eminence rising 1024^ feet above the level of the sea, and 
 the oval summit of which is 169 yards in length, and 
 eighty-nine in mean breadth. Here this usurper of the 
 Scottish crown held his court ; but on the approach of 
 Malcolm (whose father Duncan he had murdered), with 
 the English army commanded by Sivvald, Earl of North- 
 umberland, he fled northward, and was overtaken and 
 slain at Lumphanan, in Aberdeenshire. His castle was 
 immediately razed, and the remains of it destroyed by 
 fire. The parish lies in the vale of Strathmore, on the 
 north side of the Sidlaw ridge of hills ; it is about two 
 miles long, of nearly the same breadth, and contains 
 about 3000 acres. The surface in general is flat, except 
 towards the hills, where it is too steep for the plough. 
 From Dunsinnan hill fine prospects are commanded of 
 the surrounding country in every direction, and the long- 
 stretched-out and lofty Grampians are seen to rear their 
 heads in apparently endless succession. The soil mostly 
 consists of a light dark-coloured loam, mixed in some 
 places with clay, and resting upon a heavy red sand. The 
 number of acres under tillage is 1747 ; 100 are in pas- 
 ture, and 560 are under wood, consisting chiefly of Scotch 
 fir and larch. Potatoes and oats are the chief produce,
 
 COLL 
 
 COLL 
 
 but all kinds of grain and green crops are cultivated, of 
 good quality, improvements in husbandry having been 
 commenced at a very early period, and carried on with 
 great success. Much attention has been given to the 
 breed of cattle and horses, many of which are kept, and 
 the farm-houses and buildings vie with those of the best 
 parishes. The prevailing rock is sandstone, from two 
 quarries of which an abundant supply is obtained for the 
 whole parish. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £2751. 
 
 The chief mansion is Dunsinnan House, which has 
 lately been much enlarged and improved : it formerly 
 belonged to Lord Dunsinnan, a senator of the college of 
 justice and member of the high court of justiciary, who 
 died in 1812. The manufacture of yarn into cloth is 
 carried on to a considerable extent, upwards of a hundred 
 looms being in full operation : the raw material is ob- 
 tained from Dundee by persons whose business it is to 
 purchase it in large quantities ; and when worked up 
 into webs, it is returned to the same place, where it 
 meets with a ready market. The Perth turnpike-road 
 traverses the parish for about two miles. Ecclesiastically 
 the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Perth, synod of Perth and Stirling ; patron, the Crown. 
 The stipend, of which £S~ are received from the ex- 
 chequer, is about £150 : the manse and offices are com- 
 modious, and there is a glebe worth about £12 per 
 annum. The church, built in 1813, is a handsome 
 Gothic structure, with a square tower, surmounted by 
 minarets, and contains 400 sittings ; it is surrounded 
 with venerable trees, and is much admired for its com- 
 manding locality. A place of worship and a school have 
 been erected in connexion with the Free Church. There 
 is a parochial school, in which every branch of instruc- 
 tion may be obtained ; the master has excellent accom- 
 modations, with the maximum salary, and £27 fees. A 
 parochial library has also been established. 
 
 COLLEGE OF ROSEISLE, a hamlet, iu the parish 
 of DuFFUS, county of Elgin ; containing 53 inhabitants. 
 It is situated on the east side of Burgh-Head bay, about 
 a mile and a half west of Duffus, and south of the road 
 from Burgh-Head to Elgin. 
 
 COLLESSIE, a parish, in the district of Cupar, 
 county of Fife ; including the villages of Edenton, 
 Giffordton, Kinloch, Ladybank, and Monkston ; and con- 
 taining 1346 inhabitants, of whom 210are in the village 
 of CoUessie, SA miles (\V.) from Cupar. This place, 
 which is situated on the road from Cupar to Auchter- 
 muchty, is supposed to have derived its name from the 
 position of its village at the bottom of a glen ; of which, 
 in the Gaelic language, the term CoUessie is significant. 
 The parish is about eight miles in extreme length, and 
 four in average breadth, and is bounded on the south 
 by the river Eden. It comprises about 16,540 acres, 
 whereof 5000 are arable, 10,000 in pasture, about 1200 
 woodland, and nearly 300 marsh and vmcultivated waste, 
 the whole of which might without difficulty be reclaimed 
 and rendered fertile. The surface is varied ; in some 
 parts rising into hills of moderate height, whose sloping 
 sides are richly cultivated, and in others spreading into 
 open vales intersected by the river Eden and various 
 other streams, the principal of which is the Keilour, 
 separating the eastern portion of the parish from the 
 parish of Monimail. The scenery throughout is pleas- 
 ingly diversified, and embellished with natural wood and 
 222 
 
 flourishing plantations. A tract of common comprising 
 nearly 1000 acres has been divided and inclosed within 
 the last fifty or sixty years, and is now covered with 
 plantations, chiefly of fir ; and the hills in general are 
 crowned with ornamental timber. 
 
 The SOIL is various ; in the north and north-western 
 portions, extremely fertile ; in others, light and sandy, 
 and in some parts a sterile marsh. Extensive improve- 
 ments have been made by draining. The Rossie loch, 
 which covered nearly 300 acres, was partly drained 
 towards the close of the last century, but remained little 
 better than a morass till 1806, when Captain Cheape 
 completed the undertaking. This gentleman, at an ex- 
 pense of £3000, reclaimed 250 acres, which now produce 
 excellent grain ; and left only about fifty acres in the 
 centre, which, though affording good crops of hay, are 
 still marshy. The lands have been also benefited by an 
 embankment of the river Eden, and by deepening the 
 bed of the Keilour. The system of agriculture has been 
 greatly improved under the auspices of an agricultural 
 society, supported by most of the landed proprietors in 
 the district, and which holds annual meetings for the 
 distribution of prizes. The principal crops are barley, 
 oats, wheat, potatoes, and turnips ; and the species of 
 barley called Chevalier, and Italian rye grass, have been 
 introduced by the members of the society. Here the 
 pastures are very extensive, and many of them luxu- 
 riantly rich ; the cattle are of the black Fifeshire breed, 
 crossed occasionally with the Teeswater and the Angus 
 breeds. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £8032. The substratum is chiefly whinstone, which 
 is quarried for building purposes, and is much esteemed; 
 sandstone is also found in some parts, but it is not 
 worked to any great extent. The mansion-houses, with 
 their well-planted and tastefully laid-out demesnes, add 
 greatly to the beauty of the scenery. In the house of 
 Kinloch are preserved some of the earlier pictures painted 
 by Wilkie, one of which is " Pitlessie Fair", containing 
 an admirable group of more than 150 figures, chiefly por- 
 traits, and which he presented to the late Mr. Kinnear 
 out of gratitude for the kindness he had experienced at 
 Kinloch. Great facilities of communication are afl'orded 
 by the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Cupar and synod of 
 Fife ; patron, William Johnstone, Esq. The stipend of 
 the incumbent is £223. 4. 9- ; the manse is a comfortable 
 residence, having been enlarged and nearly rebuilt within 
 the last twenty 3'ears, and the glebe is vakied at £15 per 
 annum. The former church, an ancient edifice, being ill 
 adapted for public worship, and too small for the parish, 
 another was lately erected, a handsome building with a 
 low square tower, and capable of seating 550 persons. 
 There is a place of worship for members of the Free 
 Church. CoUessie parochial school is attended by nearly 
 seventy scholars ; the master, who, in addition to the 
 ordinary branches, teaches Latin and the mathematics, 
 has a salary of £35. 12., with £25 fees, and a house and 
 garden. There is also a parochial library. 
 
 A little to the south of the village, is a cairn called 
 the Gask Hill, consisting of loose stones overgrown with 
 turf, about twelve feet in height. Near this spot, an 
 ancient sword about eighteen inches in length, and se-' 
 veral fragments of human bones, covered with a few flat 
 stones, were dug up some years since. On the lands of
 
 COL M 
 
 COLM 
 
 Melville, and near the site of Hall Hill, the ancient man- 
 sion of the Melville family, is an upright block of 
 whinstone, about six feet in circumference and nine in 
 height. In the hamlet of Trafalgar are two spots, sup- 
 posed to have been the sites of military stations erected 
 to secure the pass from Newburgh to the interior of the 
 county of Fife, from which circumstance a small lake 
 between this place and Newburgh is called Lindores, 
 from the Gaelic Liiine-Doris, " the loch of the pass". 
 The eastern fort, called Agabatha, was seated on an emi- 
 nence surrounded with a moat ; and rehcs of antiquity 
 have been discovered near the spot, among which were 
 a quern or hand-mdl of mica-slate, and a number of 
 coins of the date of Edward I. Maiden Castle, the 
 western fort, is said to have derived that name from the 
 daughter of the governor, who, concealing the death of 
 her father during a siege, continued to give, herself, the 
 necessary orders for its defence, till the assailants were 
 compelled to abandon the attempt. The site of this fort 
 is pointed out by some trees planted there by the late 
 proprietor of the land. In the interval between the 
 forts numerous coffins, urns, and human bones have been 
 discovered ; the urns, one of which is still preserved at 
 Kinloch, were of Celtic origin, about eighteen inches in 
 height, fifteen inches in diameter at the base, and ex- 
 tremely conical in form. Among the eminent persons 
 connected with the parish, was Sir James Melville, pro- 
 prietor of the lands of Hall Hill in the time of Mary, 
 Queen of Scots ; there are no remains of the mansion, 
 and even the site of it has disappeared since the inclo- 
 sure of the lands. Dr. Hugh Blair was incumbent of 
 this parish, to which he was ordained in 1742. 
 
 COLLIESTON, a village, in the parish of Slains, 
 district of Ellon, county of Aberdeen, 6 miles (E. by 
 S.) from Ellon ; containing 357 inhabitants. This is a 
 maritime village, situated on the eastern coast, and in- 
 habited chiefly by fishermen, who obtain a comfortable 
 livelihood by taking various kinds of white-fish, but 
 especially haddock and cod, which are cured and sent 
 in large quantities to Leith, Glasgow, and London. — See 
 Slains. 
 
 COLLIN, or Collyn, a village, in the parish of 
 ToRTHORWALD, county of Dumfries, 2^ miles (E. by 
 S.) from Dumfries ; containing 283 inhabitants. It is 
 on the western borders of the parish, and on the high 
 road from Dumfries to Annan. From CoUyn House, 
 the elevated residence of the late Mrs. Janet Coulthart, 
 are obtained picturesque views of the country around, 
 especially in the northern and southern directions. There 
 is a school, the master of which has a salary of £20, for 
 teaching the ordinary branches of education, and derives 
 as much more from fees. 
 
 COLLISTONMILL, a hamlet, in the parish of St. 
 Vigean's, county of Forfar ; containing 61 inhabitants. 
 
 COLLOCIIBURN, or Cullochburn, a village, in 
 the parish of Cambcslang, Middle ward of the county 
 of Lanark; containing 166 inhabitants. The greater 
 part of the population is employed in the manufactures 
 of the district. 
 
 COLMONELL, a parish, in the district of Carrick, 
 county of Ayr, .5 miles (N. E.) from Ballantrae ; con- 
 taining 2801 inhabitants. This parish, the name of 
 which is of very uncertain derivation, is about nineteen 
 miles and a half in length, and seven miles in extreme 
 breadth. It is bounded on the north by the Firth of 
 223 
 
 Clyde, and comprises 56,800 acres, of which 4000 are 
 arable, 2000 fine meadow land, 800 in woods and planta- 
 tions, and the remainder moor and rough pasture. The 
 surface is beautifully varied with hills of gentle elevation, 
 inclosing fertile valleys, and with gradually-rising grounds 
 and level meadows. The chief river is the Stinchar, 
 which has its source in the parish of Barr, and, in its 
 winding course of nearly nine miles through this parish, 
 receives the waters of the Dhuisk, or Blackwater, a river 
 of almost equal breadth, over which are three bridges of 
 stone, and several of wood. The banks of the Stinchar 
 and the Dhuisk are clothed with wood, chiefly oak, ash, 
 elm, birch, alder, and larch. There are also several 
 lakes ; the principal are Loch Dornal and Loch Ma- 
 biery, which both abound in romantic scenery. The 
 higher grounds command prospects of the surrounding 
 districts, but none of the hills have an elevation of more 
 than 700 feet above the sea, and the views, though in- 
 teresting, are not very extensive : the finest prospect is 
 that from the hill of Knockdolian, embracing the whole 
 extent of the vale of the Stinchar, from Penmore to 
 Knockdolian. 
 
 On the banks of the Stinchar the soil is extremely 
 fertile ; the higher lands are chiefly a stiff clay resting 
 upon gravel, and a considerable portion is poor moor- 
 land affording scanty pasturage. The chief crops are 
 oats, wheat, barley, potatoes, and turnips; the system 
 of agriculture is in a very advanced state, and all the 
 most recent improvements are in general practice. 
 Great attention is paid to the management of the dairy, 
 and about 4000 stone of cheese are annually produced 
 for the neighbouring markets ; the Cunninghame breed 
 of cows is yearly increasing, and many of that kind 
 are pastured on the several dairy-farms. The cattle 
 reared for sale are chiefly of the Galloway breed, and 
 some hundreds of them are annually sold to the cattle- 
 dealers from the south. About 9000 sheep of the black- 
 faced breed, and 200 of the Cheviot and Leicestershire 
 breeds, are on the average pastured. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £12,425. Limestone is 
 extensively quarried, and there are five kilns, at which 
 about 20,000 bolls of lime are burnt for manure every 
 year. A fishery on the coast is carried on with success ; 
 the chief fish found here are cod, whitings, haddocks, 
 turbot, skate, and herrings, and lobsters are taken in 
 abundance, and sent by steam to Dublin, where they are 
 in great demand. Salmon is also found, in the river 
 Stinchar; and there are several salmon pools, the rents 
 of which in the aggregate amount to £30 per annum. 
 The chief seats of the parish are, Penmore and Dal- 
 gerrock, which are of some antiquity ; and Knockdolian, 
 Dhuisk Lodge, Corwar, Ballochmorie, and Drumlamford, 
 of recent erection. Colmontll village, formerly consist- 
 ing only of a few thatched cottages, has been almost 
 entirely rebuilt in a regular style ; and, since the passing 
 of the Reform act, has been a polling-place for the elec- 
 tion of a member for the county. A post-office is esta- 
 blished. Fairs are held on the first Monday in February, 
 May, August, and November (O. S.) ; and three cattle- 
 markets at Barhill, a small hamlet of recent origin, on 
 the river Dhuisk, on the fourth Friday in April, Septem- 
 ber, and October (O. S.). 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Stranraer, synod of Galloway, and in the patronage of 
 the Duchess de Coigny. The minister's stipend is £256.
 
 COLO 
 
 COL V 
 
 18. 9., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per 
 annum. Colmonell church, erected in 1/72, and re- 
 paired in 1S3'2, is a neat substantial edifice, adapted 
 for a congregation of .500 persons. A chapel of ease 
 has been erected, in which the incumbent officiates every 
 fourth Sunday during ten months of the year ; and there 
 are places of worship for Reformed Presbyterians, Ori- 
 ginal Seceders, and members of the Free Church. The 
 parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £34, with £26 
 fees, a house and garden, and the half of £21. 1.5., the 
 rent of the farm of Little Dungart, bequeathed by Dr. 
 Kennedy, for the gratuitous instruction of six poor 
 scholars. There are some remains of the ancient castles 
 of Knockdaw, Carleton, Craigneil, Kirkhill, Penwherry, 
 and Knockdolian. The most interesting of these are 
 the ruins of Craigneil, supposed to have been erected in 
 the thirteenth century, and to have been frequently 
 visited by Robert Bruce ; they are situated on a rock, 
 and the castle was anciently a prison, and a place of 
 execution for criminals. 
 
 COLONSAY and ORONSIY, two islands, in the 
 parish of Jura, district of Islay, county of Argyll, 
 15 miles (N. N. W.) from Portaskaig ; containing about 
 840 inhabitants. These islands, which are situated in 
 the Atlantic Ocean, about twenty miles to the west of 
 the isle of Jura, are supposed to have derived their 
 names from St. Columba and St. Oran, respectively. The 
 former saint is said to have founded a monastery for 
 Culdees, prior to his settlement at lona ; and a priory 
 of canons regular was founded by one of the Lords 
 of the Isles, as a cell to the abbey of Holyrood. The 
 islands are separated from each other only by a firth, in 
 some parts scarcely a hundred yards wide, and which, 
 being dry at the reflux of the tide, gives them the ap- 
 pearance of one continuous island. Together they are 
 about twelve miles in length, varying from one mile 
 to nearly four miles in breadth, and comprising about 
 11,300 acres, of which one-third is arable and meadow, 
 and the remainder hill pasture, moorland, and moss. 
 The soil is various, and has been much improved by the 
 proprietor, who has also reclaimed considerable tracts of 
 unprofitable heath and moor, and introduced the best 
 system of husbandry. The chief crops are potatoes and 
 barley, of which large quantities are sent to Islay for 
 the distilleries, and to Ireland. Great numbers of black- 
 cattle and sheep are reared on the pastures, and from 
 the attention paid to the improvement of the breed, they 
 obtain a high price in the markets of Doune and Dum- 
 barton, to which they are mostly sent. The plantations 
 consist principally of elm, ash, sycamore, and alder. 
 The house of Killoran, situated in Colonsay, was built 
 in 1722, on the site of the ancient Culdee establishment; 
 it is a spacious mansion, to which two wings have since 
 been added. At Oronsay a handsome residence was 
 built in 1772. 
 
 There is no village. Kelp is still manufactured here, 
 affording employment to about 100 persons during the 
 summer, and the produce being sent to Liverpool. There 
 are several fishing-stations on the coast, but they are so 
 exposed to the swell of the Atlantic that comparatively 
 little benefit is derived from them ; the fish taken are 
 cod, haddock, ling, skate, turbot, flounders, eels, and 
 lobsters of large size and excellent quality. The harbour 
 of Portnafeamin affords secure shelter, and a substantial 
 quay has been erected by the proprietor, near which is 
 224 
 
 a good inn. There is« church, built by the heritors in 
 1802, a neat structure containing 400 sittings. The 
 minister, who is appoimed by the incumbent of Jura, 
 has a stipend of £50, and a house and garden, with some 
 land given by the proprietor of Colonsay. A parochial 
 school for teaching English and Gaelic exists here ; the 
 master has a salary of £1 1. 2., with £1. 10. fees. There 
 is also a school upon the establishment of the Society 
 for Propagating Christian Knowledge ; the teacher re- 
 ceives a salary of £15, and £3 fees, with accommodation 
 from the proprietor. Some portions remain of the an- 
 cient priory of Oronsay, situated close to the mansion- 
 house, and forming a venerable feature in a scene of 
 wild beauty. The ruins are by far the most interest- 
 ing in the West Highlands, with the exception only of 
 those of lona ; they consist chiefly of the church, in 
 which are still preserved the tombs of the ancient Lords, 
 with a portion of the cloisters and conventual buildings, 
 and an ancient cross with an inscription, of which the 
 words Here est Crux Colini Prior. Orisoi are still legible. 
 There are also the ruins of a castle on an island in a 
 lake near Colonsay House, which is supposed to have 
 been a stronghold, or place of retreat in times of danger. 
 Sir John M'Neill, G. C. B., late envoy extraordinary and 
 minister plenipotentiary to the court of Persia ; and 
 Duncan M'Neill, Esq., late lord-advocate for Scotland, 
 were born in Colonsaj-, sons of John M'Neill, Esq., pro- 
 prietor of the tvi'o islands. 
 
 COLONSAY, LITTLE, an isle, in the parish of Kil- 
 NiNTAN, county of Argyll. It lies between the islands 
 of Staffa and Gometra, and has a very few inhabitants, 
 who feed some sheep on the verdure it affords. In many 
 places are specimens of basaltic pillars, similar to those 
 of Staffa. 
 
 COLSAY ISLE, in the parish of Dunrossness, 
 county of Shetland. This is a small islet, lying west 
 of the mainland of the parish, about a mile south of the 
 island of St. Ronan's, and nearly double that distance 
 north of Fitfull Head. It is wholly uninhabited. 
 
 COLTFIELD, a hamlet, in the parish of Alves, 
 county of Elgin, 3 miles (W. by N.) from Elgin ; con- 
 taining 42 inhabitants. It lies near the south-eastern 
 corner of Burgh-Head bay, and on the road between 
 Kinloss and Duffus. 
 
 COLVEND and SOUTHWICK, a parish, in the 
 stewartry of Kirkcudbright; containing 1495 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 875 are in Colvend, IS miles (E.) from 
 Dumfries. The former of these places is supposed to 
 have derived its name from John de Culwen, its pro- 
 prietor in the fifteenth century ; and the latter from the 
 position of its ancient church, now in ruins, with reference 
 to a small river that flows through the parish into Solway 
 Firth. After the dilapidation of the church of South- 
 wick, that parish was annexed to Colvend, with which it 
 has been united from the time of the Reformation. In 
 old records Southwick is spelled Siddick. The united 
 parish extends about eight miles from north-east to 
 south-west, and is partly bounded on the south-east by 
 the Solway Firth ; the breadth of the parish is nearly 
 four miles, and the river Urr forms its south-western 
 limit. The surface is extremely irregular, and is so 
 broken into detached portions by intervening masses of 
 rock and impenetrable copses of furze and briars, as to 
 render it impracticable to ascertain, with any degree of 
 correctness, the probable number of acres under cul-
 
 COMB 
 
 COMR 
 
 tivation. In some parts the ground rises into hills of 
 moderate height, and in other parts into mountainous 
 elevation, forming towards the north a chain of heights 
 skirting the lofty and conspicuous mountain of CrifFel. 
 For nearly two miles along the eastern coast the surface 
 is tolerably level, and divided into several fields of good 
 arable land. The coast is bold and rocky, and in many 
 places presents lofty and precipitous cliffs, which over- 
 hang the Firth, and from which, at low water, the sea 
 retires, leaving a broad tract of level sands : in the 
 crevices of these rocks is found abundance of samphire, 
 and considerable quantities of it are collected with great 
 hazard. The Firth is about nine leagues in breadth at 
 this place ; the river Urr is navigable for eight miles 
 from it, for vessels of not more than eighty tons, and the 
 Southwick burn, which is not navigable, joins the Firth 
 on the boundary of the parish. A salmon-fishery is 
 carried on upon a small scale, and during the season 
 smelts are also found ; cod is taken with lines during the 
 winter, and in the year 1834 flounders were taken in such 
 numbers that cart-loads were distributed throughout the 
 neighbouring parishes. 
 
 In general the soil is a thin light loam, and, though 
 warm and fertile, better adapted for pasture than for 
 tillage ; the chief crops are oats and barley, with pota- 
 toes, turnips, and clover. The system of agriculture is 
 improved, and much of the previously unprofitable waste 
 land has been reclaimed. The cattle are principally of 
 the Galloway breed ; the sheep are the black-faced, and 
 about a thousand of that kind are pastured on the hills. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £6006. 
 On the estates of Fairgirth and Barnhourie are consi- 
 derable tracts of ancient wood ; and the plantations, of 
 more modern date, are also extensive, and consist chiefly 
 of oak and Scotch fir, both which are in a thriving state. 
 The prevailing rocks are granite, of which there are 
 quarries ; stone of good quality for millstones is also 
 raised, and there are evident indications of copper and 
 iron, but no attempt has yet been made to work either 
 of the veins. At the mouth of the river Urr small 
 vessels are built, and there is a landing-place for unload- 
 ing cargoes of lime and other articles, and for shipping 
 the agricultural produce to Liverpool, Glasgow, and other 
 ports. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery and synod of Dumfries. The minister's sti- 
 pend is £'234. 14. 6., with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £20 per annum ; joint patrons, the Crown and the 
 Duke of Buccleuch. The church is a plain structure, 
 erected in 1771, and inadequate to the population. Pa- 
 rochial schools are supported at Colvend and Southwick, 
 the masters of which have each a salary of £26. 13.; 
 the former receives fees averaging £1.5, and the latter 
 has a house and garden, with fees amounting to £36. 
 There are numerous caverns on the shore, and in one of 
 them, about 120 yards in length, is a well twenty-two 
 feet deep, into which a piper is supposed to have fallen 
 while attempting to explore the interior of the cavern. 
 Near it is a detached portion of rock, formed naturally 
 into an arch forty feet in height, called the Needle's Eye. 
 In one of the clefts of the rocks is a strong chalybeate 
 spring. At Auchenskeoch, in Southwick, are the remains 
 of a large castellated building of which the history is 
 unknown. In the Colvend portion of the united parish, 
 at the mouth of the river Urr, are vestiges of what ap- 
 VoL. I.— 225 
 
 pears to have been a place of defence, called the Castle- 
 hill of Barclay, with a ditch round it on the side next 
 the land, and on the other a precipice descending into 
 the sea : and about a mile up the river, at a place called 
 the Moat of the Mark, are the remains of a vitrified fort, 
 where some fine specimens of vitrified granite are some- 
 times dug up. 
 
 COMBS, ST., a village, in the parish of Lonmay, 
 district of Deer, county of Aberdeen, 5 miles (S. E.) 
 from Fraserburgh ; containing 305 inhabitants. It lies 
 on the eastern coast, about two miles to the south- 
 south-east of Cairnbulg point, and is also called St. Colm, 
 a name at different times borne by the parish, from the 
 saint to whom the old church was dedicated. The inha- 
 bitants are chiefly fishermen, who have about thirteen 
 boats for the herring, and the same number for ordinary 
 white, fishing. On the sea-side near the village, origin- 
 ally stood the church. There is a parochial school here, 
 the master of which has a salary of £28, with £25 from 
 Dick's bequest, and the school fees. 
 
 COMELY-BANK, a village, in the parish of Mel- 
 rose, forming part of the late quoad sacra parish of 
 Ladhope, county of Roxburgh, and containing 157 in- 
 habitants. 
 
 COMRIE, a parish, in the county of Perth ; in- 
 cluding the villages of Dalginross, St. Fillan's, and Ross, 
 and containing 2471 inhabitants, of whom 803 are in 
 the village of Comrie, 6^ miles (W.) from Crieff. The 
 name of this place is derived from a Gaelic term signi- 
 fying "confluence", used in reference to the junction of 
 the rivers Earn, Ruchill, and Lednock near the site of 
 the church of Comrie. The present parish consists of 
 the ancient parishes of Dundurn and Tullichetal, with 
 parts of Monivaird, Strowan, and Muthill. Several traces 
 of camps and fortifications, some of which have been 
 recently obliterated by the operations of husbandry, 
 connect the district with the military enterprises of the 
 Romans. One of these relics of antiquity was visible in 
 the last century at Dalginross ; and from another which 
 still remains there, and the well-known Roman road that 
 formerly existed in the locality, it is supposed that the 
 battle described by Tacitus as fought between Agricola 
 and Galgacus, took place on the plain of Dalginross. 
 
 The PARISH is about thirteen miles long and ten 
 broad, and contains an area of 67,122 acres. It is 
 bounded on three sides by lofty mountains, the principal 
 range of which is the Grampians : the east opens on the 
 valley of Strathearn. The land is throughout diversified 
 with mountains and valleys ; the mountain of Ben- 
 honzie is 2900 feet above the level of the sea, and Ben- 
 Vorlich, -which is seen from Perth, from Edinburgh, and 
 Ayrshire, rises to the height of 3300 feet. Besides the 
 vale of the river Earn, there are Glenartney and Glen- 
 Lednock ; they are considerably above the sea level, 
 and open on the village of Comrie. The dryness of the 
 soil, and the protection afforded from the winds by the 
 surrounding mountains, render the climate mild and sa- 
 lubrious ; and the scenery is little, if at all, inferior to 
 those parts most distinguished for the union of the pic- 
 turesque and the romantic with the majestic and sublime. 
 The loch and river of Earn, the banks of which are 
 dressed in luxuriant verdure, and crowned with wood, 
 afford some of the beautiful views in the district. 
 
 The fine scenery connected with Loch Earn may be 
 said to commence at the village of Comrie, near the 
 
 2 G
 
 CO MR 
 
 CONT 
 
 eastern boundary of the parish. Here, and even lower 
 down, the vale of the Earn is full of natural and acquired 
 beauty ; and passing upwards towards the lake, the sce- 
 nery becomes more interesting at every step. At that 
 part of the valley which adjoins to the lower end of the 
 lake, its character is similar to that of the Trosachs, at 
 the corresponding extremity of Loch Katrine, though 
 less minutely rugged and picturesque. Loch Earn ex- 
 tends nine miles in length, and generally about one mile 
 in breadth ; it is remarkable for the beauty of its scenery, 
 and though small in its dimensions, compared with some 
 other lakes, yet it possesses a variety of character not 
 found in many of far greater magnitude and extent. The 
 liills that bound it are lofty, bold, and rugged. They 
 terminate in various and rocky outlines, and the sur- 
 faces of the declivities are equally bold and striking, 
 being enriched with precipices and masses of protruding 
 rock, with deep hollows and ravines, and with the courses 
 of innumerable torrents which pour from above, and, as 
 they descend, become skirted with trees till they lose 
 themselves in the waters of the lake. Wild woods also 
 ascend along their surface, in all the irregularity of dis- 
 tribution so peculiar to these rocky mountains. At the 
 upper extremity of this beautiful lake are the village and 
 inn of Lochearnhead, in the parish of Balquhidder. 
 
 The SOIL is for the most part somewhat gravelly, but 
 well cultivated and fertile ; clay is sometimes found 
 mixed with sand, and in several of the glens the soil is 
 loamy. There are 7097 acres cultivated or occasionally 
 in tillage; 55,571 pasture or waste j in wood, 3139 acres; 
 and common or disputed, 1315. No wheat is grown ; 
 but oats, barley, and potatoes are produced in very heavy 
 crops, especially if the land has been well manured. The 
 improvements in husbandry are considerable ; a whole 
 farm has lately been reclaimed by the proprietor of Dal- 
 ginross, and yields a profitable return. The chief breed 
 of sheep is the black-faced, which has been greatly im- 
 proved by crossing it with that of Crawford-Muir in 
 Dumfries-shire : Cheviots and Leicesters are also com- 
 mon. The cattle are partly of the Highland breed, and 
 Ayrshire cows have been generally introduced. There 
 are extensive natural woods of oak, ash, birch, alder, and 
 hazel, for the two first of which the soil is especially 
 adapted ; fir and larch have been planted to a consider- 
 able extent, and thrive well. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £11,700. The predominating 
 rock is mica-slate ; in Glen-Lednock granite is found, 
 and in Glenartney a considerable quantity of clay-slate. 
 In the lower grounds, as well as in Glenartney, there is 
 old red sandstone ; at Ardvorlich marble has been dis- 
 covered, and in some places lead has been seen in small 
 veins. Iron-ore is plentiful, and from the numerous re- 
 mains of furnaces for smelting, it appears to have been 
 wrought to some extent. There are three slate-quarries, 
 and several quarries of whinstone ; also a liraestone- 
 (juarry, from which large supplies are obtained for burn- 
 ing into lime for agricultural purposes. The chief man- 
 sions are Dunira, Ardvorlich, Dalhonsie, Aberuchill, and 
 Comrie House. 
 
 The village of Comrie is a burgh of barony, under a 
 bailie, and there are several constables, one of whom has 
 the charge of a small lock-up house. The inhabitants 
 are employed to a very considerable extent in manufac- 
 tures ; there is a woollen-mill, and many persons are 
 engaged in weaving cotton for firms in Glasgow and 
 226 
 
 Perth. A distillery for whisky has also been established. 
 Salmon, trout, and other fish are found in the rivers. 
 Five fairs are held annually in March, May, July, No- 
 vember, and December ; there is a post-office in the vil- 
 lage, and the turnpike-road from Perth to Lochearnhead 
 passes through the parish. Ecclesiastically the parish 
 is within the bounds of the presbytery of Auchterarder, 
 synod of Perth and Stirling ; the patronage is exercised 
 by the Crown, and the minister's stipend is £250, with 
 a manse, and two glebes, valued together at £22 per 
 annum. Comrie church, erected in 1S04, principally at 
 the instance of Viscount Melville, is conveniently situ- 
 ated in the village ; it is a handsome and commodious 
 edifice with a spire, and contains 1250 sittings. At Dun- 
 durn is an ancient chapel, in which the parish minister 
 occasionally, and his assistant regularlj', officiates ; it 
 was nearly rebuilt in 1834, by subscription, and will 
 contain about 400 persons. The members of the Free 
 Church and the United Presbyterian Synod have places 
 of worship. There is also a parochial school ; the mas- 
 ter receives the maximum salary, with about £45 fees, 
 a house and garden, and teaches Greek, French, mathe- 
 matics, and the usual branches of education. The village 
 contains a parochial library of about 500 volumes ; there 
 is a small circulating library, and two friendly societies 
 have been established. Among the remains of antiquity 
 in the parish are the ruins of several Druidical temples ; 
 and a highly venerated relic, also supposed to be Druidi- 
 cal, is still preserved, which is said by antiquaries to be 
 one of those stones that were used as the official badge 
 of the Arch-Druids, On the hill by the village is a hand- 
 some monument to the memory of the first Lord Mel- 
 ville, who erected the beautiful mansion-house at Dunira, 
 and made it his favourite residence during the parlia- 
 mentary recess. The late Mr. Drummond, under-secre- 
 tary, was born in the parish, and was heir to the estate 
 of Comrie, which was sold to Lord Melville during his 
 minority. The estates both of Dunira and Comrie are 
 now the property of Sir David Dundas. Some severe 
 shocks of earthquake have been felt in the parish. 
 
 CONANBRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Urqu- 
 HART and LoGiE Wester, county of Ross and Cro- 
 marty, 3 miles (S. by W.) from Dingwall ; containing 
 342 inhabitants. This is a prosperous village, situated 
 in the vicinity of a bridge over the river Conan or Conon, 
 and on the road between Inverness and Dingwall. The 
 bridge is of five arches, with 265 feet of water-way, and 
 was erected under the auspices of the parliamentary com- 
 missioners, by whom it was approved in Oct. 1S09. 
 
 CONDORAT, a village, in the parish of Cumber- 
 nauld, county of Dumbarton, 2| miles (S. W.) from 
 Cumbernauld ; containing 709 inhabitants. It is situ- 
 ated on the north side of the river Logic, and on the 
 high road from Glasgow to Stirling. Part of the popu- 
 lation is employed in weaving and other manufactures of 
 the district. A school is aided by an annual allowance 
 from the heritors. 
 
 CONNAGE, a village, in the parish of Petty, county 
 of Inverness, a few miles (N. E.) from Inverness; con- 
 taining 97 inhabitants. This is a small fishing-place on 
 the east side of the Moray Firth, and on the road from 
 Inverness to Ardersier. 
 
 CONTIN, a parish, in the county of Ross and Cro- 
 marty, 8 miles (S. W. by W.) from Dingwall; including 
 part of the quoad sacra districts of Carnoch and Kin- 
 
 r 
 
 <
 
 CONT 
 
 CO RS 
 
 loch-Luichart, and containing 1770 inhabitants. The 
 origin of the name of this place, which is involved in 
 considerable obscurity, is said to be Gaelic, the word 
 expressing the confluence of two streams of water. The 
 Druids appear to have had a settlement here in ancient 
 times ; and from its strong places, the remains of which 
 are still visible, we may conclude Contin to have been 
 in after ages the theatre of several bloody encounters : 
 the spot Blar nan Ceann, or "the field of heads", de- 
 rived its name from a sanguinary engagement between 
 the Mackenzies of Seaforth and the Macdonells of Glen- 
 garry. The parish is thirty-three miles long, and nearly 
 of the same breadth ; the surface is mountainous, and 
 the scenery about the valleys and lakes, especially Loch 
 Achilty, is highly picturesque. The chief streams are, 
 the Conon or Conan, the Meig, and the Rasay, which all 
 unite at Moy, and form one large river that takes the 
 name of Conon, and empties itself into Cromarty Firth 
 not far from the town of Dingwall. The lakes are nu- 
 merous, the two most interesting being Achilty and Ki- 
 nellan, the former of which is famed for its trout and 
 char, and the latter for its artificial island, based on piles 
 of oak, and for a distinct echo : the scenery of both is 
 delightful. 
 
 The mountainous districts are used only for pasture, 
 but the valleys, in which the soil is rich and productive, 
 are chiefly arable. There are several farms of 150 acres 
 each, all cultivated upon the most improved system of 
 husbandry ; a large part of the low land is covered with 
 wood, and a few tracts are planted with larch and fir. 
 The land has considerably increased in value during the 
 last half century ; in 1792 the rental scarcely reached 
 £1400, whereas the annual value of real property in the 
 parish now is £6406. The sheep are the black-faced 
 and the Cheviots, and some of them have obtained com- 
 petition prizes ; the cattle are of the black Highland 
 breed. In this parish the strata are formed of gneiss, 
 and sometimes red sandstone is found. The principal 
 mansion is at Coid ; it is surrounded by grounds taste- 
 fully laid out. Craigdarroch is also an elegant residence, 
 commanding a view of Loch Achilty and the interesting 
 scenery aroiind. The parish abounds with game. There 
 is a fishery in the rivers Conon and Rasay, in which the 
 finest salmon is taken ; the profits are estimated at £40 
 a year. The road to Lochcarron passes through the 
 parish, and there are several other roads for particular 
 districts. Fairs were until lately held here three times 
 in the year, but they have been discontinued. Eccle- 
 siastically the parish is within the bounds of the presby- 
 tery of Dingwall, synod of Ross : the patronage is e.xer- 
 cised by the Crown ; and the stipend of the minister is 
 £265, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £16 per 
 annum. Contin church, the date of which is uncertain, 
 has strong marks of having been built long prior to the 
 Reformation ; it underwent considerable repairs some 
 years ago, but is still an inconvenient and uncomfort- 
 able building. There is a parochial school, in which 
 the ordinary branches of education are taught, with 
 the classics and mathematics if required ; the master's 
 salary is £30 a year, with from £8 to £10 fees. Another 
 school is supported by the Society for Propagating 
 Christian Knowledge, and a third by another society. 
 There are the remains of a Druidical temple at the 
 border of Loch Achilty. On the estate of Hilton are 
 several chalybeate springs of strong power. 
 227 
 
 COPAY ISLE, in the parish of Harris, county of 
 Inverness, 2 miles (S. W.) from the Isle of Lewis. It 
 lies in the sound of Harris, and is of small extent, and 
 uninhabited. 
 
 COPINSHAY, an island, in the parish of Deer- 
 NEss, county of Orkney ; containing 13 inhabitants. 
 It is about three-quarters of a mile in length and half a 
 mile in breadth, lying about three miles directly east- 
 ward of the mainland, and comprising some good ground, 
 both arable and pasture. The island is accessible on 
 the west side only. The height of the east side, forming 
 a perpendicular rock, is 300 feet, and about three- 
 quarters of a mile to the north of the island, is a large 
 rock called the Horse of Copinshay, about 200 feet 
 high, and covered on the top with grass, to which a few 
 sheep are sometimes taken to graze. Both of these 
 rocks are resorted to by immense numbers of sea-fow'l 
 in the spring and summer months ; and at the period 
 when they deposit their eggs and hatch their young, if 
 a gun be fired from a boat below, the birds, alarmed by 
 the report, fly from their nests in such myriads as to 
 darken the air for some extent around. They are prin- 
 cipally maws, nories, scarfs, auks, and kittyauks. 
 
 CORNCAIRN, a village, and a burgh of barony, in 
 the parish of Ordiquhill, county of Banff, 6 miles 
 (S.) from Portsoy ; containing 9-4 inhabitants. This 
 place is situated in the neighbourhood of Cornhill, a 
 village on the road from Huntly to Banff, where several 
 annual fairs and cattle-markets are held, the latter well 
 known as the " Cornhill markets". 
 
 CORRIE, a village, in the parish of Kilbride, Isle 
 of Arran, county of Bute ; containing 222 inhabitants. 
 It is situated on the eastern shore of the island, about 
 three miles and a half north of Brodick bay and castle. 
 There is a small harbour, with a quay, but it is only 
 accessible to vessels at high water. A school has been 
 established in the village. 
 
 CORRIE, county of Dumfries. — See Hutton and 
 
 CORRIE. 
 
 CORSOCK, a hamlet, in the parish of Parton, 
 stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 9 miles (E. by P.) from 
 New Galloway ; containing 38 inhabitants. It lies in 
 the eastern confines of the parish, near the LTrr water, 
 and south of the high road from New Galloway to 
 Dumfries. 
 
 CORSTORPHINE, a parish, in the county of Edin- 
 burgh ; including the village of Gogar, and containing 
 1551 inhabitants, of whom 3*2 are in the village of 
 Corstorphine, 4 miles (W.) from Edinburgh, on the 
 road to Glasgow. This place, the name of which is of 
 uncertain origin, appears to have been from a very 
 early period the property and residence of families of 
 distinction. David le Mareschall held possession of it 
 in the reign of Alexander II. The estate subsequently 
 became the property, in 1376, of Adam Forrester, an- 
 cestor of the Lords Forrester, who in 1373 was provost 
 of Edinburgh, and in 1390 was made keeper of the great 
 seal by Robert HI., who employed him in frequent em- 
 bassies to England. In 1446 the castle of Corstorphine 
 was destroyed, and the lands laid waste, by Chancellor 
 Cricbton and his military vassals, in retaUation of a 
 similar outrage on his castle of Brankstoun by Sir John 
 Forrester and Sir William Douglas. In 1572 the castle 
 was garrisoned by the Earl of Mar, regent of the king- 
 dom, with a view to prevent the sending of supplies to 
 
 2 G 2
 
 CORS 
 
 CO RT 
 
 the castle of Edinburgh, at that time held for Mary, 
 Queen of Scots, by William Kirkaldy of Grange. In 
 1650 General Leslie drew up his forces on the meadows 
 to the east of the village, to check the proceedings of 
 Cromwell, whose army was posted on the Pentland hills. 
 The latter, in order to force him to an engagement, ad- 
 vanced for the purpose of interposing a body of men 
 between him and Linlithgow ; but Leslie, marching 
 westward from his former position, intrenched his forces 
 on the field of Gogar, and his opponent, finding it im- 
 practicable to dislodge him in consequence of the 
 marshy nature of the ground, retreated, after a sharp 
 skirmish, to Musselburgh. Cromwell, however, after- 
 wards took possession of this place ; and his forces, in 
 retaliation of the opposition they had experienced from 
 Lord Forrester, mutilated the tombs and monuments of 
 the Forrester family in the church, the interior of which 
 they nearly destroyed, and utterly laid waste the sur- 
 rounding lands. 
 
 The PARISH, which includes part of the ancient parish 
 of Gogar, with the lands of Ravelston and Saughton, 
 detached from the parish of St. Cuthbert in 1633, con- 
 tains about 2650 acres, exclusively of plantations, roads, 
 and waste. Its surface, which is generally level, is 
 diversified with a gentle elevation near the village, and, 
 towards the north-east, by the beautiful hill of Corstor- 
 phine, which rises to a height of 474 feet above the sea, 
 and is clothed to its very summit with rich plantations. 
 The streams in the parish are the Leith water and Go- 
 gar burn ; the former flows through the eastern portion 
 of the lands, and the latter into the river Almond. In 
 general the soil is fertile, producing abundant crops, 
 and the meadows and pastures are luxuriant ; the 
 system of agriculture is in a highly improved state, and 
 around the village are large tracts of garden-ground, 
 from which great quantities of fruit are sent to Edin- 
 burgh. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £9964. On Corstorphine Hill are several quarries of 
 fine freestone, from which materials were taken for the 
 erection of the Parliament House, Heriot's Hospital, and 
 various other public buildings in Edinburgh : but they 
 have for many years been abandoned, with the exception 
 of one lately drained. There are also some quarries of 
 blue whinstone in the parish. 
 
 Upon the acclivity of Corstorphine Hill is Ravelston 
 House, and around its base are many noble mansions, 
 among which are Beechwood and Belmont. Within 
 the parish are also Saughton House, Clermiston, and 
 Gogar. The village is beautifully situated at the base 
 of the bill, on a slight elevation above the meadows on 
 either side, and is a favourite resort of the citizens of 
 Edinburgh. Near it was till lately a slightly sulphu- 
 reous spring, which in 1749 was in such high repute 
 that a stage-coach was established for the conveyance 
 of visiters, making nine journeys daily between this 
 place and Edinburgh. A small pump-room was erected 
 over the well, by one of the Dick family ; but it was 
 suflFered to fall into decay, and by the sinking of a ditch 
 near the spot within the last few years the spring has 
 entirely disappeared. The village of Stanhope-Mills, 
 on the lands of Saughton, contains an ancient house, 
 over the doorway of which are the armorial bearings of 
 Patrick Elphingston, with his initials and the date 1623; 
 and one of the rooms, the roof of which is highly orna- 
 mented, has on the wall the royal arras, with the initials 
 228 
 
 C. R. II. The parish is intersected by the Edinburgh 
 and Glasgow railway, and by various roads. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Edinburgh, synod of 
 Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister has a stipend of 
 £242, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per 
 annum ; patron. Sir William Hanmer Dick Cunyngham, 
 Bart. The church, which was formerly collegiate, was 
 founded in 1429, under the invocation of St. John the 
 Baptist, by Sir John Forrester, who endowed it for a 
 provost, five prebendaries, and two choristers. It is a 
 venerable cruciform structure in the later English style, 
 with a handsome tower and spire, and, notwithstanding 
 the mutilation it suffered from Cromwell's soldiers, re- 
 tains much of its original character and beauty. The 
 roof is plainly groined, and is supported by ranges of 
 clustered columns with richly-moulded arches and orna- 
 mented capitals ; there are nurtierous monuments of the 
 Forrester family, whose recumbent effigies are finely 
 sculptured, and various other ancient tombs. A small 
 portion of the church of Gogar is still remaining, and 
 has been converted into a sepulchral chapel by the pro- 
 prietor of the lands. At the east end of Corstorphine 
 church, a lamp was formerly kept burning to guide the 
 traveller, for the maintenance of which an acre of land 
 near Coltsbridge, thence called the Lamp Acre, was 
 allotted : this now forms an endowment for the parish 
 schoolmaster. There is a place of worship for members 
 of the Free Church. The parochial school is attended 
 by about seventy scholars : the master has a salary of 
 £34, with a house and garden, and the acre of land before 
 noticed ; the fees average about £20. The permanent 
 poor's fund is about £450, arising from bequests. On 
 taking down the remains of Corstorphine Castle, to- 
 wards the close of the last century, a large number of 
 gold and silver coins were found ; and on the erection 
 of Gogar House in 1811, several remains of Roman 
 antiquity were discovered, consisting of a dagger with 
 part of the scabbard, a fibula, and a gold ring of very 
 slender substance. Numerous stone coffins have been 
 found at various times on the lands of Gogar, and the 
 spot is supposed to have been the original place of 
 sepulture of the ancient parish, or not improbably the 
 site of General Leslie's encampment, where bodies of the 
 slain were interred. 
 
 CORTACHY and CLOVA, a parish, in the county 
 of Forfar, 4 miles (N.) from Kirriemuir ; containing 
 867 inhabitants. The former of these ancient parishes, 
 which were united in I6O8, is supposed to have derived 
 its name, anciently Quartachie, from a Gaelic term 
 descriptive of the situation of its church and castle in a 
 small valley surrounded with elevated lands. Of the 
 latter parish the name is of very uncertain derivation. 
 The barony of Cortachy belonged at a very early period 
 to the family of Ogilvy, ancestors of the Earls of Airlie, 
 and whose baronial castle here has for many generations 
 been their chief seat, and is still the residence of the 
 present earl. The district of Cortachy is about ten 
 miles in length and nearly four in average breadth, of 
 somewhat triangular form, narrow at the southern extre- 
 mity, where it is bounded by the confluence of the rivers 
 South Esk and Prosen, and comprising about 23,700 
 acres. Clova, which is nearly of equal length, and 
 varies from two to almost four miles in breadth, is situ- 
 ated to the north-west of Cortachy, and comprises an
 
 CO RT 
 
 COTT 
 
 area of 19,000 acres ; making a total in the whole parish 
 of nearly 43,000 acres, of which about 3540 are arable, 
 1000 woodland and plantations, and the remainder 
 mountain pasture and waste. 
 
 The surface of the parish is boldly diversified, and 
 embellished with features of picturesque beauty and 
 majestic grandeur in striking contrast. The south-west- 
 ern portion embraces part of one of the Grampian ranges, 
 extending nearly through the entire length of the dis- 
 trict, and declining on the south and south-west towards 
 the river Prosen, and on the north and north-east to- 
 wards the South Esk. Opposite to this mountainous 
 range is another of greater elevation, stretching through 
 the whole of the parish ; and between them are the 
 beautiful and richly-cultivated vales of Wateresk and 
 Clova. The latter vale is divided on the north by a 
 lofty mountain into two narrow glens, one of which takes 
 a north-western, and the other a south-western direction. 
 From these glens the adjacent mountains appear in all 
 their towering grandeur, varying in height from 1500 to 
 more than 3000 feet, and presenting a combination of 
 bold and precipitous masses of barren rock, immense 
 heights covered to their very summits with various kinds 
 of grasses, and hills of stupendous elevation, affording 
 excellent pasturage for both cattle and sheep. The river 
 South Esk has one of its sources in Loch Esk, and others, 
 of still greater power, in the stream of Falfearnie, &c. ; 
 it flows through the parish for nearly twenty miles, 
 receiving in its course numerous tributary streams, 
 among which is the Whitewater. Loch Esk, situated 
 among the mountains, six miles north-west of the vale 
 of Clova, is about half a mile in circumference, of com- 
 paratively inconsiderable depth, and surrounded with 
 scenery rather of bleak and rugged character. Loch 
 Wharral, in the heart of the mountainous district at the 
 north-eastern boundary of the parish, and about 1000 
 feet above the level of the Esk, is a mile in circum- 
 ference, and of very considerable depth. About two 
 miles to the north-east of Loch Wharral is Loch Brany, 
 on the same side of the mountain range, and nearly at 
 a like elevation ; it is about a mile and a half in circum- 
 ference, and in some parts of great depth. These lakes 
 abound with trout, and many trout are also found in 
 the river, of large size and good flavour, as are sea-trout 
 during the summer. Salmon, too, are found in the Esk, 
 towards the middle of September. 
 
 The SOIL is very various. The greater portion of that 
 in the arable lands is sharp and gravelly, inclining in 
 some parts to a fertile loam, and in others to a thin stony 
 sand. In the southern districts of the parish it is much 
 mixed with clay ; and along the bases of the hills, partly 
 a fine deep mould, and partly hard and stony, alternated 
 with moss. In the valleys there is a rich deposit of allu- 
 vial soil, inclining to sand, with alternations of moss, and 
 in other parts a deep sandy loam. The principal crops 
 are oats, barley, wheat, turnips, and potatoes ; the sys- 
 tem of agriculture is improved, and the rotation plan of 
 husbandry is generally practised. Great attention is 
 paid to the management of live stock. The cattle chiefly 
 reared are the Angus breed ; they are of middling size, 
 and generally disposed of when two or three years old. 
 The mountains afford pasture for great numbers of sheep, 
 mostly of the black-faced and Cheviot breeds ; and in 
 addition to those reared in the parish, numbers are 
 bought when young, and fed till three or four years old, 
 229 
 
 when they are sold at high prices. In this parish the 
 woods consist of oak, ash, mountain-ash, elm, plane, 
 beech, chesnut, alder, and birch ; and the plantations, of 
 larch, Scotch, spruce, white and black American, and sil- 
 ver firs. Much attention is paid to pruning and thin- 
 ning at proper times, especially on the lands of the Earl 
 of Airlie, to whose father the gold medal of the Highland 
 Society was adjudged in 1830, for his extensive improve- 
 ments. The rocks are of red sandstone, pudding-stone, 
 whinstone, serpentine, mica-schist, gneiss, clay-slate, 
 quartz, and granite ; limestone is also found, but unless 
 taken from a considerable depth, it is not of very good 
 quality. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £3887. 
 
 Cortachy Castle, a seat of the Earl of Airlie's, is a spa- 
 cious and ancient structure with modern additions, beau- 
 tifully situated in a small valley on the south side of the 
 river Esk : the date of the more ancient part, and the 
 name of the original founder, are both unknown. Of the 
 castle of Clova but little remains ; it is said to have been 
 destroyed by Cromwell, during the parliamentary war. 
 Facility of communication with the neighbouring towns 
 is afforded by good roads, of which that to Strathmore 
 passes through the whole length of the parish. Fairs for 
 cattle and sheep are held on the farm of Collow, on the 
 last Friday in April, and fourth Monday in October ; the 
 latter is one of the largest sheep-markets in the country, 
 and the number of sheep sold is generally from 8000 to 
 12,000. For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Forfar, synod of 
 Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend is about 
 £173, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per an- 
 num ; patron, the Earl of Airlie. The present church 
 of Cortachy, situated near the southern extremity of the 
 parish, was erected on the site of the former edifice, in 
 1829, by the then earl, at an expense of more than £2000; 
 it is a handsome structure, containing 550 sittings, all of 
 them free. Clova church, about ten miles distant from 
 the church of Cortachy, is an ancient structure, repaired 
 and enlarged by the erection of a gallery in 1731, and 
 lately repewed. It contains 250 sittings, all of which 
 are free, except the gallery, which is let for the benefit of 
 the poor. Near it is a good house for a missionary, who 
 officiates alternately in this church and the chapel of 
 Glenprosen, and who has a regular stipend of £30 from 
 Royal Bounty, £30 from the inhabitants of the districts, 
 and £21 from the Earl of Airlie. The parochial school 
 is situated near Cortachy church ; the master has a 
 salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees 
 average £15. The parochial library has a collection of 
 200 volumes, chiefly the gift of the Ogilvy family. 
 
 COT-TOWN, a hamlet, in the parish of St. Madoes, 
 county of Perth ; containing 62 inhabitants. It is one 
 of the only two hamlets or villages in the parish. 
 
 COTES, county of Lanark. — See Coats. 
 
 COTTACK, a village, in the parish of Dunscore, 
 county of Dumfries, 9 miles (N. W.) from Dumfries ; 
 containing 252 inhabitants. This village is built on ele- 
 vated ground, and is very centrally situated, being nearly 
 equidistant from the two extremes of the parish ; the 
 population consists of agricultural labourers and a few 
 artisans and mechanics. The Cairn, a considerable 
 stream, tributary to the Nith, and in which fine trout are 
 obtained, passes to the west of the village. Here is the 
 parish church, and one of the three parochial schools.
 
 COUL 
 
 CO VI 
 
 COTTON OF LOWNIE, a village, in the parish of 
 DuNNiCHEN, county of Forfar, 3 miles (E. S. E.) from 
 Forfar; containing 100 inhabitants. It is seated a little 
 south of the road from Forfar to Dunnichen, and about 
 a mile south-west of the latter village. 
 
 COULL, a parish, in the district of Kinxardine 
 O'Neil, county of Aberdeen, 2| miles (E. S. E.) from 
 Tarland ; containing 744 inhabitants. This place is sup- 
 posed to have taken its name, which signifies a " corner", 
 from its situation in the south-eastern extremity of the 
 district of Cromar. It measures six miles in average 
 length and three in breadth, comprising about 7620 
 acres, of which 2300 are arable ; 5000 are uncultivated 
 pasture, nearly 100 of these, however, being capable of 
 profitable cultivation ; and 320 acres are occupied by 
 wood, chiefly planted within the last twenty or thirty 
 years. The surface is to a considerable extent level, espe- 
 cially in the centre, where is a marshy tract called Bog- 
 more. There are, however, several portions of high land, 
 and between this parish and those of Aboyne and Lum- 
 phanan stretches a mountain range containing the peaks 
 called the hill of Gellan, Mortlich, Leadhlich, and the 
 hill of Corse. The soil in the low grounds is generally 
 of good quality, and comprehends a large portion of rich 
 loam, resting on a gravelly subsoil ; but on the hills it 
 only affords indifferent pasture. Great improvements in 
 agriculture have been effected during the last thirty years, 
 particularly on the esiate of Corse, where almost every 
 thing has been done that could contribute to change its 
 neglected appearance, and increase the value of the pro- 
 pertj-, which is now one of the most beautiful and desir- 
 able of its size in the county. Much land in the parish 
 has been brought into cultivation ; draining and inclos- 
 ing have been successfully practised, and the larger part 
 of Bogmore, formerly so prejudicial to the climate of the 
 locality, has been partly converted into pasture, and 
 partly into arable land. In the process of draining the 
 ground, which was an alluvial deposit incumbent on 
 moss, fragments of immense oaks were found embedded. 
 The rocks in the hills are chiefly red and white granite. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £2197. 
 The knitting of stockings is carried on, and there is a 
 wool-carding mill, at w-hich blankets and coarse woollen- 
 cloths are manufactured. 
 
 This parish was formerly attached to the abbey of 
 Arbroath. It is now in the presbytery of Kincardine 
 O'Neil, synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of Sir 
 John Forbes, Bart., of Craigievar. The minister's sti- 
 pend is about £161, of which about half is received from 
 the exchequer; with a manse, built in 1832, and a glebe 
 of four acres, valued at £7 per annum. The church is a 
 plain building, erected in 1792 ; it has a good-toned bell, 
 of considerable size, cast in Holland in the year 1644, 
 and presented to the church by Mr. Ross, of Mill of 
 Coull. A large portion of the parish has long been an- 
 nexed, for ecclesiastical purposes, to the parish of Leochel 
 and Cushnie. The parochial school affords instruction 
 in the usual branches ; the master has a salary of £26, 
 with about £15 fees, and £40 from the Dick bequest. 
 The ruins of the castle of Corse, erected in 1581 by 
 William Forbes, father of Bishop Patrick Forbes, are 
 still to be seen ; and the remains of that of Coull are 
 also visible, on a rocky eminence near the chtireh. This 
 latter structure, the seat of the Durwards, a family of 
 great power, was of quadrangular form, with large hex- 
 230 
 
 agonal towers at the angles, the whole surrounded by a 
 fosse ; and it appears to have been a fortification of con- 
 siderable extent and strength. On the summit of a small 
 hill is a Druidical circle, and traces of a chapel called 
 Turry Chapel yet remain on the lands of Corse. 
 
 COUPAR-ANGUS, in the county of Forfar.— See 
 Cupar-Angus. 
 
 COVE, a village, in the parish of Nigg, county of 
 Kincardine, 5 miles (S. S. E.) from Aberdeen ; con- 
 taining 421 inhabitants. This place, which is situated 
 on the shore of the German Ocean, derives its name from 
 one of those numerous small bays or coves with which 
 the coast is here indented ; and is inhabited by persons 
 employed in the fisheries. The fish taken are chiefly 
 salmon, white-fish of various kinds, and lobsters, crabs, 
 and other shell-fish. The salmon are caught in bag-nets, 
 are packed in ice, and sent to the London market ; and 
 during the season, nine boats, varying from ten to four- 
 teen tons' burthen, with crews of six men each, are en- 
 gaged in the herring-fishery off the north coast. The 
 cove, which forms a small natural harbour, affords suffi- 
 cient shelter for the boats belonging to the place. The 
 Aberdeen railway passes here. A school has been esta- 
 blished for the accommodation of this distant portion of 
 the parish ; the master has a house and garden, with £7 
 from a bequest, in addition to fees averaging £15. 
 
 COVINGTON and THANKESTON, a parish, in the 
 Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 4 miles (W. byN.) 
 from Biggar ; containing 523 inhabitants. Of these an- 
 cient parishes, which were united about the beginning of 
 the eighteenth century, the former derives its name, an- 
 ciently Colbaiistoun, from its proprietor Colban in the 
 twelfth century ; and the latter, from a Flemish settler 
 named Tankard or Thankard, who obtained a grant of 
 lands here during the reign of Malcolm IV. The parish 
 is about four miles in length from south to north, and 
 nearly three in average breadth. It is bounded on the 
 east by the river Clyde, which separates it from the pa- 
 rish of Libberton. The number of acres is about 5500, 
 of which nearly 2000 are arable, eighty acres woodland 
 and plantations, and the remainder sheep-pasture. The 
 surface is varied, and the scenery in many parts of 
 pleasing character. Along the banks of the Clyde, the 
 soil is rich and fertile, and the lands occasionally subject 
 to inundation ; in the higher grounds are some portions 
 of barren heath, but they generally afford good pasturage 
 to numerous flocks of sheep. The system of agriculture 
 is in an improved state ; the chief crops are oats, barley, 
 peas, potatoes, and turnips. The lands have been much 
 benefited by furrow-draining ; considerable progress has 
 been made in inclosing the several farms, and the farm- 
 buildings and offices are in a very superior condition. In 
 this parish the cattle are chiefly of the Angus breed, and 
 the sheep of the black-faced kind. There is but little 
 wood, and much improvement might be made, both in 
 the appearance of the lands and in affording shelter, by 
 a judicious increase of plantation. The Clyde abounds 
 with trout and pike of considerable size. The villages 
 of Covington and Thankeston are pleasantly situated, 
 and at the latter is a bridge over the Clyde, erected by 
 subscription in 1778. There is also a station at Thankes- 
 ton of the Caledonian railway, affording great facility 
 of intercourse. For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Biggar, synod of 
 Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is £208.
 
 COYL 
 
 CO Y L 
 
 13. 7., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £1*. 10. 5 
 patrons alternately, the Lockhart family, of Lee and 
 Carnwath, and Sir Windham Carmichael Anstruther, 
 Bart. The church of Thankeston has been suffered to 
 fall into ruins, and that of Covington has been enlarged 
 for the population of the whole parish. The parochial 
 school is in the village of Covington ; the master has a 
 salary of £'28, with a house and garden, and the fees 
 average about £16 per annum. 
 
 COWCADDENS, a village, in the late ecclesiastical 
 district of St. Stephen's, within the jurisdiction of the 
 city of Glasgow, county of Lanark, 5 a mile (N.) from 
 Glasgow. This is a populous village, and formed, with 
 Port-Duudas andWoodside, one of the divisions that were 
 ecclesiastically separated from Barony parish. It is 
 chiefly occupied by persons employed in hand-loom 
 weaving, and iu the various factories in the vicinity of 
 Glasgow. There are five schools, of which one is in con- 
 nexion with the Roman Catholics, and two are female 
 schools. 
 
 COWDEN-BEATH, a village, in the parish of Beath, 
 district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, ^ a mile(S. E.) 
 from Beath ; containing 127 inhabitants. It is in the 
 south-eastern part of the parish, a short distance west of 
 the road from Aberdour to Kinross ; and has a station 
 on the Dunfermline branch of the Edinburgh, Perth, and 
 Dundee railway. South of the village is a bleachfield. 
 
 COWIE, a village, in the parish of Fetteresso, 
 county of Kincardine, 1 mile (N.) from Stonehaven ; 
 containing 174 inhabitants. This village is situated at 
 the mouth of the river Cowie, which falls into a bay of 
 that name, forming a small and commodious harbour ; 
 and is chiefly inhabited by fishermen, who, during the 
 season, are also engaged in the herring-fisheries on the 
 coast. The principal fish taken here are haddocks, of 
 which great numbers are cured, and sent by the Aber- 
 deen steamers to the London market ; cod, ling, and 
 various other fish are likewise found in abundance. 
 Eight boats are employed, each having a crew of five 
 men. On the sumr.iit of a rock overlooking the bay are 
 the remains of an ancient castle which, upon very doubt- 
 ful authority, is supposed by some writers to have been 
 originally built by Malcolm Canmore. 
 
 COWPITS, a village, in the parish of Inveresk, 
 county of Edinburgh ; containing 1 16 inhabitants. It 
 is one of a few small villages in the parish chiefly oc- 
 cupied by colliers. 
 
 COWSLAND, a village, in the parish of Cranston, 
 county of Edinburgh, 3 miles (E. N. E.) from Dalkeith ; 
 containing 226 inhabitants. It is a neat village, situ- 
 ated in the northern part of the parish, on the road from 
 Dalkeith to Ormiston. In the neighbourhood are some 
 limestone-quarries; and to the east of the village is 
 Cowsland Park. A school-house is furnished to a teacher 
 by the families in the vicinity. 
 
 COYLTON, a parish, in the county of Ayr, 5 miles 
 (S. E.) from Ayr ; containing, with the villages of Craig- 
 hall, Gadgirth-holm and Bankfoot, Jo])pa, and Knock- 
 shaggle-holm, 1484 inhabitants. This place, the name 
 of which is of uncertain derivation, was augmented about 
 the beginning of the eighteenth century by the quoad 
 sacra annexation of a portion of land, lying on the north 
 and east sides of the river Coyl, and then included in the 
 parish of Ochiltree. It measures twelve miles in extreme 
 length, and nearly two in average breadth, and comprises 
 231 
 
 11,515 acres, of which more than 8000 are cultivated, 
 nearly 800 in wood, consisting chiefly of forest-trees, and 
 the remainder in pasture. The river Ayr flows for nearly 
 four miles along its north-west boundary, separating it 
 from Tarbolton and St. Quivox ; and from this stream 
 the surface rises south-eastward, in a series of undula- 
 tions, to the heights called the Craigs of Coyl, attaining 
 an elevation of "50 feet above the level of the sea. After 
 this, the land advances to a loftier ridge, forming the 
 boundary line in this direction, and commanding, from 
 au elevation of 1100 feet, an extensive and richly diver- 
 sified prospect on all sides. The scenery is much im- 
 proved by the lochs of Martnaham, Fergus, and Snipe, 
 which are partly in the parish. Of these, the first- 
 mentioned, partly in the parish of Dalrymple, is a mile 
 and a half long and about a furlong broad, abounding in 
 pike, perch, and eels, and much frequented Isy wild-ducks, 
 geese, widgeon, teal, and other water-fowl. Loch Fergus, 
 a fine piece of water extending over about twenty-five 
 acres, contains a well-wooded island, said to have been 
 in ancient times the seat of a monastery ; and is supposed 
 by some to have taken its name from King Fergus, who 
 defeated Coilus, king of the Britons, in the adjacent fields. 
 There is also a lake called Loch End, covering about 
 three acres ; and in most of the lakes fish of the usual 
 kinds are found, as well as in the rivers, which are also 
 well stocked with yellow trout. The river Coyl, which 
 rises in the parish, displays a beautiful cascade in the 
 vicinity of Sundrum Castle, where the river is about 
 twenty-five feet wide ; the fall is about thirteen feet in 
 depth, and on the swelling of the stream is greatly in- 
 creased in its picturesque effect. 
 
 The SOIL in general is a retentive clay, producing 
 chiefly oats, but wheat and barley are also grown, and 
 beans, potatoes, turnips, and the various grasses. The 
 husbandry of the parish is not so much advanced as that 
 of many other parts, but improvements are in progress, 
 especially furrow-draining, and subsoil ploughing is 
 practised to a limited extent. The dairy is much re- 
 garded ; and what is called Dunlop cheese is made in 
 large quantities, frequently of excellent quality, and, with 
 the butter, milk, and other dairy produce, is relied on 
 for the payment of nearly half the rent. The cattle are 
 mostly of the pure Ayrshire breed, but a few of the West 
 Highland or Galloway are kept on the higher grounds ; 
 the sheep were formerly the black- faced, but these, for 
 several years, have been crossed with the Cheviots, and 
 the latter stock now generally prevails. The annual 
 value of real property in Coylton is £8144. The working 
 of the subterraneous contents of the parish occupies a 
 considerable portion of the manual labour of the district. 
 Coal, limestone, ironstone, plumbago, clay-slate, basalt, 
 several varieties of freestone, and fire-clay are all found 
 here ; and several of them are wrought to some extent. 
 Three coal-mines, a limestone-quarry, and three quarries 
 of sandstone are in operation ; and black-lead obtained 
 from this part supplied an article of traffic for many 
 years, but its quality not allowing a competition with the 
 Cumberland and foreign lead, the mine has been aban- 
 doned. Clay-slate, celebrated for sharpening iron instru- 
 ments, was also once extensively quarried ; but the 
 material being found iu abundance, and of superior 
 quality, in the adjoining parish of Stair, the works have 
 been discontinued. The value of the mineral produce is 
 averaged at £6000 annually. The plantations are chiefly
 
 C R AI 
 
 CR A I 
 
 in the lower part of the parish, and, being in a thriving 
 condition, especially in the vicinitj' of the rivers, add 
 greatly to the agreeable character of the scenery; they 
 are mostly of larch and Scotch fir, but oak, beech, ash, 
 elm, birch, and several other kinds are plentiful. 
 
 The mansion of Sundrum, pleasantly situated on the 
 bank of the Coyl, and commanding extensive views, is 
 partly ancient and partly modern ; the old walls are 
 in some portions twelve feet thick, and have castellated 
 summits. Gadgirth House, another seat, is a plain 
 oblong modern structure, on the bank of the Ayr river; 
 it occupies the site of Gadgirth Castle, once a place of 
 note, and the residence of the family of Chalmers, who, 
 being friendly to the Reformation, warmly patronized the 
 celebrated John Knox, and allowed him to preach in the 
 castle. The great road from Ayr to Dumfries, through 
 Nithsdale, traverses the centre of the parish. Coylton 
 is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Ayr, synod of 
 Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the Crown ; 
 the minister's stipend is £2.54. 8. 4., with a manse, and 
 a glebe valued at £1'2 per annum. The old church, the 
 ruin of which is still partly standing, belonged in ancient 
 times to the bishopric of Glasgow ; the present edifice, 
 wh'ich is small but handsome, was built in 1836, and 
 is a cruciform structure, with a square tower sixty feet 
 high, containing a good bell. The parochial school 
 affords instruction in the ordinary branches, the classics, 
 and mathematics ; the master has a salary of £30, with 
 a house, and £20 fees. A few years since, several silver 
 coins of the reigns of Elizabeth, James VI., and Charles 
 I., were dug up. The Rev. John Black, LL.D., author of 
 the Life of Tasso, and who died in the year 1825, was 
 minister of Coylton for fifteen years ; he was a native of 
 the parish of Douglas, in the county of Lanark. 
 
 CRAGGANESTER and CRAGGANTOUL, hamlets, 
 in the parish of Weem, county of Perth, 7 miles (S. W.) 
 from Fortingal ; containing respectively 23 and 20 in- 
 habitants. These are neighbouring places, situated in 
 one of the detached portions of the parish, and on the 
 western border of Loch Tay. The road from. Fortingal to 
 Killin passes in the vicinity of both hamlets. 
 
 CRAICHIE, a village, in the parish of Dunnichen, 
 county of Forfab, 1^ mile (W. S. W.) from Letham ; 
 containing 70 inhabitants. It stands on one of the 
 roads between Forfar and Letham, and about a mile 
 south of Dunnichen church. The parochial church is in 
 the village. 
 
 CRAIG, a parish, in the county of Forfar, i a mile 
 (S. by W.) from Montrose ; containing, with the villages 
 of Ferryden, Usan, and Rossie, 1945 inhabitants. This 
 place was formerly called Inchbrayock, " the island of 
 trout ", by which name an island of forty-three acres 
 within the parish is still known. Craig was at that time 
 only the designation of one of the chief estates, and it is 
 supposed that, when the place of worship was transferred 
 from the island to the property of Craig on the conti- 
 nental part of the district, the name of Craig, which is 
 naturally derived from the rocky nature of the shore, 
 was extended to the whole of the parish. The parish 
 comprehends two distinct titularities, viz. Craig and St. 
 Skeoch, which were united in the year I6l8, and the 
 latter of which, pronounced St. Skay, is said to have re- 
 ceived its name from one of the northern saints. The 
 site of an ancient religious edifice on the coast is still 
 called the chapel of St. Skay ; a small burying-place 
 232 
 
 round the spot is occasionally used for interments, and 
 the site of the manse is pointed out in a neighbouring field. 
 Craig appears to have been a feudal barony, a field behind 
 the house being still called Law-field ; an adjoining farm- 
 steading is styled Balgovie, that is H'ithie, or prison- 
 house, and a rising ground on the property bears the name 
 of Govan-hill, the H'ithie-hill, or place of execution. 
 
 The PARISH is about six miles long, and two miles and 
 a half in extreme breadth, comprising 5138 acres, 2 
 roods, 37 perches of land. It is partly bounded by a 
 basin about nine miles in circumference, through which 
 the river So\ith Esk flows into the sea, and which is 
 filled with the tide at high water. This basin separates 
 the parish on the north from the town and harbour of 
 Montrose, and on the south-east is the German Ocean. 
 The surface gradually rises from the north and east 
 towards the south-west, where it attains a height of 400 
 feet above the level of the sea. The coast is rocky, and 
 towards the south quite precipitous ; it forms about five 
 miles of the boundary line of the parish, and has Mont- 
 rose bay and ness on the north, and Lunan bay and 
 Boddin point on the south. The shores abound in all 
 kinds of fish, which are taken in great numbers in the 
 respective seasons. In the middle of the parish the soil 
 is a strong rich loam ; towards the eastern quarter it is 
 sandy, and in some places, especially in the western 
 portion, it is damp and moorish. About 3509 acres are 
 cultivated, 331 waste or pasture, 757 undivided common 
 belonging to the parishes of Craig, Marytown, Farnell, 
 and Kiunell, and 291 acres are in wood, comprising 
 almost all the kinds of trees usually grown. Grain of 
 every kind, and the principal green crops, are cultivated 
 in the parish ; and as the husbandry adopted compre- 
 hends all the most approved usages, the crops, both as 
 to quantity and quality, are in general of a superior 
 character. The cattle are the Angusshire black, without 
 horns, and the sheep are chiefly the black-faced Highland 
 breed. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £9645. 
 
 The rocks consist of the old red sandstone and lime- 
 stone, intermixed with several varieties of trap, in which 
 very fine specimens of the Scotch pebble are often found 
 embedded. There are some quarries of the trap forma- 
 tion, and the produce is in considerable demand for 
 building, but requires, for facings, the more ornamental 
 material of sandstone. The mansions are, the house of 
 Rossie, built in 1800 ; the villa of Inchbrayock, built in 
 1813; the house of Usan, in 1820; and that of Dun- 
 ninald, in 1825. A few of the inhabitants are employed 
 in manufactures ; but the principal attention of the po- 
 pulation is divided between agriculture and fishing, the 
 produce of the latter of which amounts in value to about 
 £7000 annually : the salmon taken are mostly packed in 
 ice, and sent to the Edinburgh and London markets. 
 The turnpike-road from Montrose to Arbroath passes 
 through the parish, and during the summer the steam- 
 boat from Aberdeen to Leith touches at the village of 
 Usan. There are harbours at Ferryden and Boddin, 
 large enough for the use of small sloops with coal and lime, 
 and piers and warehouses are expected shortly to be built 
 at Ferryden : the dues belong to the town of Montrose. 
 Facility of intercourse is afforded by several bridges, the 
 chief of which is a magnificent suspension-bridge over 
 the South Esk, opening up an immediate communication 
 with Montrose. 
 
 M
 
 C II A I 
 
 CR AI 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Brechin, synod of Angus and 
 Mearns ; patrons, the College of St. Mary, in St. Andrew's. 
 The stipend is £257, and there is a good manse, built in 
 1805, with a glebe valued at £"24 per annum. Craig 
 church, which is an elegant structure, with a square 
 tower eighty feet high, was built in 1799 at the expense 
 of the late Mrs. Ross of Rossie, and for many years after 
 its erection was the only church in the county possessed 
 of any architectural beauty : it contains SOO sittings. 
 A place of worship has been erected in connexion with 
 the Free Church. There is a parochial school, in which 
 the classics, mathematics, navigation, and all the usual 
 branches of education are taught ; the master has a good 
 house and garden, with a salary of £34, and about £17 
 fees. The parish also contains three libraries, to which 
 the inhabitants have access gratis ; two of these are 
 small, but the third, instituted in 1809, consists of nearly 
 600 volumes, and has proved of great utility. Among 
 the chief remains of antiquity is the Castle of Craig, 
 situated on the northern side of the parish, and formerly 
 a place of considerable strength ; it has a square tower 
 and gateway, apparently of great age, but in good pre- 
 servation, and a part of it, bearing the date of 1634, is 
 still occupied as a dwelling-house. Near Boddin, on 
 the south coast, are the remains of an old castle called 
 Black Jack, supposed to have been thus named in com- 
 parison with Red Castle on the opposite side of the bay. 
 A strong earthen fort, also, with out-works, and accom- 
 modation within for men and ammunition, was to be seen 
 a few years ago, at the point where the South Esk falls 
 into the sea ; it is said to have been used in Cromwell's 
 time, but it is not known by whom it was built : cannon 
 were placed at it in 1745. The eloquent and pious Arch- 
 bishop Leighton was descended from a family of some 
 celebrity in former times, who were proprietors of the 
 lands of Usan ; and the well-known Andrew Melville was 
 born at Baldovie, in the northern part of the parish. 
 
 CRAIG OF MADDERTY, a burgh of barony, in 
 the parish of Madderty, county of Perth ; containing, 
 with the village of St. David's, 181 inhabitants. The 
 estate of Craig, on which the village is built, was erected 
 in 1626 into a free burgh of barony, through the instru- 
 mentality of Lord John Madderty, by charter confer- 
 ring power to hold a market every Friday, with four 
 fairs yearly. Courts have been held occasionally within 
 the barony, for settling disputes ; but the village has 
 latterly very much declined, and in its place has risen 
 that of St. David's, in which is a school. 
 
 CRAIGDALLIE, a hamlet, in the parish of Kin- 
 NAiRD, county of Perth ; containing 52 inhabitants. 
 
 CRAIGEND, a village, in the late quoad sacra parish 
 of Crossbill, parish of Old Monkland, Middle ward 
 of the county Lanark, 4^ miles (E. S. E.) from Glas- 
 gow ; containing 80 inhabitants. It is situated on the 
 bank of the river Clyde, which here makes a consider- 
 able bend, and on the road from Glasgow to Bellshill in 
 the parish of Bothwell. 
 
 CRAIGEND, a hamlet, in the East parish of the 
 city and county of Perth ; containing 47 inhabitants. 
 
 CRAIGHALL, a village, in the parish of Coylton, 
 district of Kyle, county of Ayr; containing 100 inha- 
 bitants. A coal-mine of some extent has been in opera- 
 tion at this place for a number of years, and is one of 
 three large coal-mines of the parish. 
 Vol. I.— 233 
 
 CRAIGHALL and NEW CRAIGHALL, villages, 
 the former wholly in the parish of Inveresk, the latter 
 chiefly in Inveresk parish, and partly in that of Lib- 
 berton, in the county of Edinburgh ; containing 
 respectively 501 and 336 inhabitants. Craighall is 
 situated about two miles south-south-west of Mussel- 
 burgh. Coal is abundant, and in the vicinity are exten- 
 sive coal-mines. Close to the village is Pinkie House, 
 the seat of Sir John Hope, Bart. ; it was originally a 
 country seat of the abbots of Dunfermline, and after 
 the Reformation became private property. Although 
 still a large structure, it is evidently only part of a mag- 
 nificent design. 
 
 CRAIGIE and BARNWEILL, a parish, in the dis- 
 trict of Kyle, county of Ayr, 4 miles (S.) from Kil- 
 marnock ; containing 779 inhabitants. Craigie was dis- 
 joined from the parish of Riccarton in 1647, and in 1673 
 it received an increase of boundary by the annexation of 
 the suppressed parish of Barnweill, the larger part of 
 the stipend of which, however, was transferred to the 
 minister of the newly-erected parish of Stair. The 
 parish is about seven miles long, and one and a half 
 broad. Its scenery is pleasingly varied ; the hills near 
 the church rise about 500 feet above the level of the 
 sea, and are covered with verdure to the summit, ex- 
 cepting where a craggy rock occasionally protrudes. 
 The views presented from the heights are extensive and 
 beautiful, and the lands are ornamented with several 
 lochs, some of which, however, are partly in adjoining 
 parishes ; Loch Brown covers nearly 100 acres, and is 
 about half in this parish, the remaining part being in 
 those of Mauchline and Tarbolton. The parish com- 
 prises 6300 acres of land, almost entirely under cultiva- 
 tion. The principal kind of grain raised, and nearly the 
 only kind, is oats ; the pastures are extensive ; several 
 tracts are under rye-grass and meadow-grass, and the 
 remainder of the green crops consist of beans, potatoes, 
 and a few turnips. In this parish the farms average 
 about ninety acres ; and besides a tolerable proportion 
 of sheep, of a mixed breed, between 700 and 800 milch- 
 cows are kept, and upwards of 400 young cows and 
 calves : the milk is chiefly used for cheese, and the 
 stock sold at Kilmarnock. A corn-mill is turned by 
 the waters of one of the lochs. Various improvements 
 have taken place in agriculture, but what has been most 
 beneficial is furrow- draining, which has been carried 
 to a great extent ; the farm-houses are substantial and 
 well fitted-up, and about half of them are slated. The 
 plantations cover 170 acres. Three limestone-quarries, 
 and a tile-work lately erected, are in operation ; and 
 coal of several kinds was formerly wrought. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £8058. 
 
 There are three mansions, Cairnhill, Barnweill, and 
 Underwood ; the first consists of an ancient tower, still 
 strong, and in very good repair, with a modern portion 
 attached. Barnweill is a neat residence, built towards 
 the latter part of the last century ; and Underwood, a 
 commodious house, was erected about the same time. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of 
 James Campbell, Esq., of Craigie ; the minister's sti- 
 pend is £247, with a manse, and a glebe of five acres, 
 valued at £10 per annum. The church, formerly called 
 the Kirk in the Forest, is a neat plain edifice, built in 
 1776, and will accommodate 600 persons. The paro- 
 
 2 H
 
 C R A I 
 
 C R A I 
 
 chial school affords instruction in the usual branches, 
 and in the classics, practical mathematics, and book- 
 keeping ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house, 
 and £18 fees. The ruins of the church of Barnweill 
 are still standing, and also those of Craigie Castle, a 
 very ancient building, at one time inhabited by the 
 Wallaces of Craigie, a collateral branch of the family of 
 Sir William Wallace, the Scottish patriot. There are 
 several artificial mounds called "law hills," on which 
 culprits are supposed to have been formerly tried. 
 
 CRAIGIE, a village, in the parish of Dalmeny, 
 county of Linlithgow, 2^ miles (E. N. E.) from Kirk- 
 liston ; containing 75 inhabitants. It stands in the 
 eastern part of the parish, and in its vicinity is Craigie 
 Hall, formerly the residence and estate of the Craigies, 
 an ancient and considerable family. One of them was a 
 witness to the original charter granted to the first laird 
 of Dundas in the year 1120. In 13S7 the heiress of 
 the family married Sir John Stewart, who took the 
 name, and his posterity continued here until 1640, when 
 the estate of Craigie Hall was sold. It subsequently be- 
 came the seat of the Hope family. — See Dalmeny. 
 
 CRAIGIE, a hamlet, in the parish of Caputh, 
 county of Perth, 2i miles (N. N. E.) from Caputh ; 
 containing 67 inhabitants. It lies in the eastern part of 
 the parish, and adjoins the village of Cluny on the east 
 side. 
 
 CRAIGIE, a village, in the East parish of the city 
 af Perth, county of Perth ; containing 219 inhabitants. 
 It is situated on the west side of the river Tay, and a 
 little south of the city, of which it forms a suburb. 
 Craigie is a pleasant village, and in its vicinity is the 
 site of the old castle of Craigie, which belonged to the 
 Ross family. 
 
 CRAIGIELANDS, a hamlet, in the parish of Kirk- 
 PATRiCK-juxTA, couuty of DUMFRIES, 2:J milcs (S. by 
 W.) from Moffat ; containing 84 inhabitants. It is 
 about a mile north-west by west from Kirkpatrick, and 
 a short distance south of the Evan water. The hamlet 
 is small and scattered. 
 
 CRAIGMILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Logie, 
 county of Clackmannan, 2 miles (N. E.) from Stirling ; 
 containing "8 inhabitants. It is situated at the southern 
 base of the Abbey Craig, in a detached portion of the 
 county, about a mile south of Logie, and on the north 
 side of the Forth river, which here is very devious in its 
 course. The place was chiefly known, before the duty 
 on spirits was lowered, as an abode of smugglers. 
 
 CRAIGNEUK, a village, in the parish of Dalziel, 
 county of Lanark. Near this village is an excellent 
 quarry of flagstone, which affords employment to seve- 
 ral of the inhabitants. The stone is of a very fine grain, 
 and of a reddish colour ; it varies from one quarter of 
 an inch to five inches in thickness, and is much used 
 for pavements, and occasionally substituted for slate in 
 the roofing of buildings. 
 
 CRAIGNISH, a parish, in the district and county of 
 Argyll, 16 miles (N. N. W.) from Lochgilphead; con- 
 taining 873 inhabitants. This place, though known in 
 modern times only by its present appellation, was 
 anciently called both Craignish and Kilmhorie. The 
 former name, which is a compound Gaelic term signi- 
 fying a rocky peninsula, is descriptive of the southern 
 portion of the parish ; and the latter, meaning a chapel 
 dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was applied in reference 
 234 
 
 to an ancient structure, the ruins of which yet remain 
 in the principal burying-ground. The parish is washed 
 by the Atlantic on the west and south ; it is bounded on 
 the north by the parish of Kilninver and Kilmelford, 
 and is separated on the east, by Loch Craignish, from 
 the parishes of Kilmartin and Dalavich. Craignish 
 measures a little more than eleven miles in length and 
 about two in average breadth, comprehending, for a 
 Highland district, a considerable portion of land under 
 cultivation. The coast, on account of its numerous in- 
 dentations, is supposed to form a line of sixteen or 
 seventeen miles in extent ; it is exceedingly rocky on 
 the south and west, and also marked in the latter direc- 
 tion by several small bays with fine white sandy shores. 
 Loch Craignish is about three miles wide at a small dis- 
 tance from the entrance ; in other parts it varies con- 
 siderably in breadth, and towards its head narrows itself 
 to less than a mile, the depth averaging about twelve 
 fathoms. On each side of the loch, at the distance of 
 about half a mile from the land, is a chain of verdant 
 islets, some of them ornamented with oak, ash, birch, 
 and fir trees ; and at the northern extremity the water 
 expands into a spacious harbour, with good anchorage, 
 and secured by the surrounding hills from the violence 
 of winds. There is also a very convenient harbour in a 
 creek called Little Loch Craignish, on the west of the 
 parish, about a mile from the southern extremity of the 
 peninsula ; it is much frequented by vessels in stormy 
 weather, or when waiting for a favourable tide. The 
 most considerable of the islands just alluded to, within 
 the parish, are those of Mc Niven and Mc Larty, so 
 named from their old proprietors : the largest and most 
 fertile of the islands in the loch is Island Righ, or 
 "king's island", attached to Kilmartin parish. Near 
 the southern point of the peninsula, in a south-western 
 direction, are five islands, of which that called Garrarissa 
 forms the sound of Dorus-mor. 
 
 The surface of the parish in the interior is much 
 diversified. Lofty hills covered with heath are alter- 
 nated with tracts of flat land, ornamented in some parts 
 by verdant dechvities and valleys, interspersed with 
 lochs, and shrouded with beautiful foliage. The north- 
 ern extremity of the parish is marked by a chain of 
 rugged hills, rising about 700 feet above the sea ; they 
 are mostly covered with a kind of heathy pasture, and 
 skirted at the base with a belt of level land about a 
 quarter of a mile broad. The surface along the eastern 
 boundary of the peninsular portion of the parish is dis- 
 tinguished by a series of verdant eminences, attaining 
 in some parts an elevation of 300 feet ; at the base is a 
 narrow strip of land stretching to the margin of the 
 loch, and forming a variety of interesting points and 
 bays on a flat clayey shore. A range of hills, covered 
 principally with heath, also characterises the peninsula, 
 reaching from north to south, and commanding from 
 the chief heights beautiful views of Loch Craignish and 
 its islets, the hills of Knapdale, the sound and island of 
 Jura, the far-famed Corrybreckan, the islands of Colon- 
 say, Scarba, &c., and the mountains of the isle of Mull, 
 and Morvern. There are likewise twelve lochs in the 
 parish, besides numerous rivulets ; trout is abundant, 
 and char is found in one of the lochs. 
 
 The soil in general is fertile ; that under tillage 
 chiefly consists of two distinct kinds, one of them a hazel 
 mould resting on rock, and the other a darker earth 
 
 »
 
 C R A I 
 
 C R A I 
 
 incumbent on clay, and the whole is interspersed with 
 sandy tracts. Though small in extent, the cultivated 
 lands are of average fertility, producing chiefly crops of 
 oats and potatoes. The rearing of cattle is also much 
 attended to. Husbandry has made comparatively but 
 few advances ; the lands are mostly under the old 
 system of cultivation, the tenantry in general hold their 
 farms at will, and many tracts of good quality are 
 suffered to lie waste for want of draining. A superior 
 state of things is observable on a few farms held on 
 lease, which are inclosed and well drained. The sheep 
 are the black-faced, with a few of the Leicester and 
 Cheviot breeds ; and of cattle the West Highland breed 
 prevails, with a small proportion of Lowland milch-cows. 
 The prevailing rock in the peninsular district is clay- 
 slate, assuming frequently a sandy character, and some- 
 times running into a hard inferior sandstone. The an- 
 nual value of real property in the parish is £3207- 
 
 Castle Craignish, situated in the south, is an ancient 
 structure with modern additions, and within the last few 
 years has been repaired and greatly enlarged by its pro- 
 prietor, Colin Campbell, Esq., of Jura. In the lower 
 portion of this fine mansion is a vaulted apartment 
 said to have been formerly used as a dungeon. The 
 house of Barbreck, in the north-eastern quarter, a com- 
 modious mansion, and that of Dail, on the western 
 coast, are both modern residences : these and the castle 
 have demesnes ornamented with clumps of plantations, 
 covering together about 300 acres, which comprehend 
 nearly the whole wood in the parish. In the centre of 
 the parish is the house of Ardlarich. The population 
 are employed in agriculture, except those occasionally 
 engaged in fishing. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the 
 presbytery of Inverary, synod of Argyll, and in the 
 patronage of the Duke of Argyll. The minister's stipend 
 is £169. 10., of which about a quarter is received from 
 the exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe of about 
 fifteen acres, valued at £18 per annum. Craignish 
 church is a neat structure, erected in 1826, and con- 
 veniently situated on the eastern side of the parish. 
 The parochial school affords instruction in all the ele- 
 mentary branches of education ; the master has a salary 
 of £25. 13., with a house, £20 fees, and £1. 10. derived 
 from funded property. The remains of numerous Danish 
 forts are still visible in the parish. The ruins of a reli- 
 gious house, supposed to have been an oratory, and of 
 another, formerly, it is said, the parish chapel, may yet 
 be traced ; and there is a small bay called the Port of 
 the Athollmen, which received its name from the cir- 
 cumstance of several of the Marquess of Atholl's men 
 having been drowned there, after a defeat by the natives, 
 in the seventeenth century. 
 
 CRAIGO, a village, in the parish of Logie-Pert, 
 county of Forfar, 5^ miles (N. N. W.) from Montrose ; 
 containing 3.59 inhabitants. It is pleasantly seated on 
 the south bank of the North Esk river, and has a large 
 manufacturing establishment, comprising a flax-spinning 
 mill, a bleachfield, some cloth-finishing machinery, and 
 an alkali manufacture. About 280 hands are employed 
 in these works, which belong to a London firm. Craigo 
 House, built by the Carnegie family about fifty or sixty 
 years since, stands a mile south of the village, and the 
 grounds around are well planted : on the estate is a good 
 freestone-quarry. The North Esk is crossed in the 
 neighbourhood of the place by substantial bridges, one of 
 235 
 
 which, of three arches, was erected by the celebrated John 
 Erskine of Dun at the time of the Reformation. 
 
 CRAIGROTHIE, a village, in the parish of Ceres, 
 district of Cupar, county of Fife, 1 mile (W.) from 
 Ceres ; containing 308 inhabitants. It is situated on 
 the road from Kennoway to Cupar, and near Struthers, 
 the old seat of the Earls of Crawfurd. It has a bailie 
 and council, and its rural corporation was greatly patron- 
 ized by the last earl. A school has been built by sub- 
 scription. 
 
 CRAIGTON, a village, in the parish of Monikie, 
 county of Forfar, \ a mile (S. W.) from Monikie ; con- 
 taining 162 inhabitants. It lies on the road from Dundee 
 to Brechin ; and its population is chiefly employed in weav- 
 ing linen-cloth for the manufacturers in the surrounding 
 districts. There is a small school in the village. 
 
 CRAIGTON-FIELD, a village, in the parish of New 
 Kilpatrick, county of Dumbarton ; containing 69 
 inhabitants. It is situated in the northern part of the 
 parish, on the road from Kilpatrick to Drymen, and about 
 three miles north-north-west of the parochial church. 
 
 CRAIL, a royal burgh, a 
 sea-port, and parish, in the 
 district of St. Andrew's, 
 county of Fife, 10 miles 
 (S. E. by E.) from St. An- 
 drew's, and 40 (N. N. E.) 
 from Edinburgh ; containing '| 
 1737 inhabitants, of whom 
 1221 are in the burgh. This 
 place anciently bore the name 
 of Carrail, afterwards con- 
 tracted into Cryle, Craill, and 
 now Crail ; probably from 
 caer, "a town", and isle, "a wing or corner", the town 
 being situated in the corner of the county that is com- 
 monly called the East Nook. It is of remote antiquity, 
 and had a royal castle, the date of which is not clearly 
 ascertained, but which was occasionally the residence of 
 David I. A priory and a collegiate church were founded 
 here at an early period, and richly endowed. Of the 
 former, which was suppressed previously to the Refor- 
 mation, there remain only some vestiges of the chapel, 
 dedicated to St. Rufus ; and the latter, in which were 
 eight altars, was at that time stripped of its rich orna- 
 ments, and is now the parish church. Mary of Guise, 
 afterwards consort of James V., landed on this coast 
 after a severe storm, and was hospitably entertained in 
 the ancient mansion of Balcomie Castle, whence, accom- 
 panied by the king, she proceeded to St. Andrew's. 
 
 The TOWN is situated at the mouth of the Firth of 
 Forth. It consists principally of two parallel streets, 
 extending along the shore from east to west, and inter 
 sected nearly at right angles by others of inferior note. 
 The houses in the main street are spacious, and of an- 
 cient appearance ; and though, from the loss of the her- 
 ring-fishery, of which the town was a principal station, 
 it has been long declining in prosperity, it still retains 
 many vestiges of its former importance. The harbour 
 is both inconvenient and unsafe ; but about a quarter of 
 a mile to the east is Roome Bay, which might be con- 
 verted into an excellent haven capable of affording secure 
 shelter to 200 sail of vessels, and might be rendered 
 available to the increase of the trade of the Forth, and 
 of the eastern coasts of England and Scotland. There 
 
 2 H2 
 
 Durifli Seal.
 
 C R A I 
 
 C R A I 
 
 are no manufactures carried on, nor any trade of impor- 
 tance, except what is requisite for the supply of the 
 neighbourhood. The government of the town, which 
 was erected into a royal burgh by charter of Robert 
 Bruce, confirmed by Mary, Queen of Scots, by James 
 VI., and Charles I. and II., is vested in a chief magis- 
 trate, two bailies, a treasurer, and a council of seventeen, 
 chosen under the regulations of the Municipal act of 
 William IV. There are seven incorporated trades or com- 
 panies, the blacksmiths, wrights, weavers, tailors, shoe- 
 makers, coopers, and bakers, the fees of admission into 
 which vary, for sons of freemen, from £1. 5. to £3. 19-, 
 and for strangers, from £3 to £6. 2. The magistrates, 
 whose jurisdiction extends over the whole of the royalty, 
 hold bailie courts for civil actions and the trial of petty 
 offences, but very few cases come under their decision. 
 Crail is associated with St. Andrew's, Anstruther Easter 
 and Wester, Cupar, Kilrenny, and Pittenweem, in re- 
 turning a member to the imperial parliament ; the num- 
 ber of qualified voters is about fifty. The town-hall, a 
 neat building, is situated in the principal street. 
 
 The PARISH, which is bounded on the south and east 
 by the Firth of Forth and the German Ocean, is about 
 seven miles in length, extending to Fifeness, the eastern 
 extremity of the county, and about three miles in extreme 
 breadth ; but from its irregularity of form, the precise 
 number of acres has not been ascertained. Its surface, 
 near the shore, has an elevation of about eighty feet 
 above the sea, and rises gradually towards the west, 
 without forming any considerable hills. The soil com- 
 prehends every variety of character, from the deepest 
 black loam to a thin wet clay, and the chief crops are 
 wheat, oats, beans, barley, and potatoes, of all which 
 great quantities are sent to London, Leith, &c. In this, 
 as in other parishes, the system of agriculture has been 
 much improved : all the modern implements of hus- 
 bandry are in use ; the farms are of moderate size, and 
 on most of them threshing-mills have been erected. The 
 lands near the town obtain a very high rent, generally 
 from £6 to £8 per acre, and the pastures are luxuriantly 
 rich. Coal is found in the parish, and a considerable 
 work was carried on within a few years ; limestone of 
 good quality is also abundant, and is obtained for burn- 
 ing into lime for agricultural use. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £10,240. The only plan- 
 tations are around the mansions of the principal landed 
 proprietors. The ancient houses of Newhall and Balco- 
 jnie have been demolished ; of the latter, which was one 
 of the noblest mansions in the county, a small portion 
 still remains, forming a commodious dwelling-house for 
 the farmer, and a good landmark for mariners. The 
 principal houses at present are those of Airdrie, a hand- 
 some mansion embosomed in thriving plantations ; Wor- 
 miston, in the grounds of which there are some trees of 
 stately growth ; and Kirkmay. For ecclesiastical 
 purposes the parish is within the bounds of the presby- 
 tery of St. Andrew's, synod of Fife. The minister's sti- 
 pend is £'280, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £64 
 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Glasgow. Crail church, 
 formerly collegiate for a provost, sacrist, and prebenda- 
 ries, still retains some vestiges of its ancient grandeur. 
 The parochial school, with which the burgh grammar 
 school has been incorporated, is well conducted ; the 
 master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, 
 and the fees average about £40. When the number of 
 236 
 
 scholars exceeds ninety, an assistant is appointed, who 
 receives from the corporation £12 per annum, the salary 
 formerly paid to the burgh schoolmaster. The remains 
 of the priory, near the sea-shore, are almost obliterated ; 
 the eastern gable, which was the chief portion left, having 
 been destroyed by the sea about forty or fifty years ago. 
 Near Fifeness is a long ridge of stones called the Danes' 
 Dyke, with a cave in which Constantine II. is said to 
 have been murdered by the Danes about 8*4. 
 
 CRAILING, a parish, in the district of Jedburgh, 
 county of Roxburgh ; including the village of East and 
 West Nisbet, and containing 66/ inhabitants, of whom 
 74 are in the village of Crailing, 4 miles (N. N. E.) from 
 Jedburgh. This place, the name of which is of uncertain 
 derivation, comprehends the ancient parish of Nisbet, an- 
 nexed to it by act of the presbytery prior to the year 1713. 
 The whole parish comprises 6000 acres, of which about 
 300 are woodland and plantations, and the remainder 
 arable land in good cultivation. Its surface is varied, in 
 some parts rising to a considerable elevation; the highest 
 point, called Piniel Heugh, is a hill covered with verdure, 
 presenting a pleasing object in the landscape, and ren- 
 dered more conspicuous and interesting by the erection 
 on its summit of a monument to commemorate the vic- 
 tory at Waterloo. This monument is a circular column 
 of whinstone, 150 feet in height, rising from a massive 
 pedestal, on the face of which is the inscription, " To the 
 Duke of Wellington and the British Army, William Ker, 
 Vlth Marquess of Lothian, and his tenantry, dedicate 
 this monument, 30th of June, 1815." It has within 
 the shaft a spiral staircase, leading to the summit, which 
 commands an extensive and richly-varied prospect, em- 
 bracing the windings of the Teviot to the west, the range 
 of the Cheviot hills to the south, Tweeddale to the north, 
 and the whole of the Merse to the sea on the east. The 
 Teviot flows through the parish, and, a little below the 
 village, receives the Oxnam water. 
 
 The SOIL is dry and fertile, and extremely favourable 
 to the growth of all kinds of grain. About the year 
 1800, very profitable crops of tobacco were raised on 
 some of the lands, by way of experiment. The present 
 crops are oats, wheat, barley, potatoes, turnips, and peas; 
 the system of agriculture is highly improved. The plan- 
 tations are well managed, and in aflourishing state; and 
 on the road passing through the village are some stately 
 rows of beech, ash, and elm. The principal substrata 
 are whinstone and sandstone : the latter is found near 
 the river, of a light colour, and of excellent quality for 
 building ; two quarries have been opened, and blocks of 
 twelve feet in length have been raised. The annual va- 
 lue of real property in the parish is £7379. Monteviot 
 House, the seat of the Marquess of Lothian, is situated 
 at the western extremity of the Nisbet district : the an- 
 cient mansion is small, and uninteresting in its architec- 
 tural details ; a new mansion was projected and com- 
 menced, but after the erection of a small part, consisting 
 merely of the servants' apartments, &c., the work was 
 suspended many years before the late marquess's death. 
 Crailing House is a handsome mansion, on rising ground 
 overlooking the winding stream of the Oxnam ; the 
 demesne is laid out with great taste, and embellished 
 with rich plantations. The village of Crailing was for- 
 merly more extensive than at present ; it has facility of 
 intercourse with Jedburgh and Kelso by the great road 
 from Carlisle to Berwick. 
 
 •
 
 CRAM 
 
 CRAM 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Jed- 
 burgh, synod of Merse and Teviotdale : the minister's 
 stipend is £251. 10., with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £32. 10. per annum ; patrons, the Crown and the 
 Marquess of Lothian. The church, situated in the Crai- 
 ling district of the parish, is a neat plain edifice, adapted 
 for a congregation of 300 persons. Of the ancient 
 church of Nisbet scarcely any remains exist, but the 
 churchyard is still used. There is a place of worship for 
 members of the Free Church. The parochial school at 
 Crailing is well conducted ; the master has a salary of 
 £30, with £'22 fees, a house and garden, and £3. 15., the 
 interest of a bequest by one of the Lords Cranstoun. A 
 school at Nisbet is supported by the marquess, who gives 
 the master a salary of £20, with a house and garden rent- 
 free, in addition to the fees. The old mansion-house at 
 Monteviot is said to be part of an ancient hospital de- 
 pendent on the abbey of Ancrum. Near the site of the 
 mansion are traces of the cemetery belonging to the es- 
 tablishment ; a considerable number of tombstones have 
 from time to time been dug up, and the inscriptions on 
 some of them were tolerably legible, but none appear to 
 have been of any importance. 
 
 CRAMOND, a parish, chiefly in the county of Edin- 
 burgh, and partly in that of Linlithgow ; including 
 the village of Davidson's-Mains, and containing 1981 
 inhabitants, of whom 16" are in the village of Cramond, 
 5 miles (W. N. W.) from Edinburgh. This place derived 
 its name, originally Caer Anion, from the erection of a 
 fortress on the river Amon or Almond at its influx into 
 the Firth of Forth ; and from the discovery of coins and 
 other relics of antiquity, it is supposed to have been a 
 Roman station, and the port through which that people 
 obtained supplies of grain for their army. Among the 
 antiquities found here are, the remains of a bath and se- 
 veral altars, and the military road leading from the vil- 
 lage to the south. About half way between Queensferry 
 and Edinburgh is Cramond Brig, where, according to 
 ancient tradition, one of the Scottish kings was rescued 
 from a band of robbers by the ancestor of the Howisons 
 of Braehead and Crawfordland. That family is said to 
 hold these lands on condition of attending at Cramond 
 Bridge with a basin of water and a towel, for the king 
 to wash his hands, when passing here ; and this cere- 
 mony was performed by Mr. Howison Crawford in 1S22, 
 at the banquet given to George IV. by the corporation of 
 Edinburgh. 
 
 The PARISH is situated on the south shore of the 
 Firth, and that part of it which is in the county of Lin- 
 lithgow is separated from the other portion by the river 
 Almond. The whole is from six to seven miles in length, 
 and from one rnile to two miles in breadth ; and includ- 
 ing the small islands of Cramond and Inch-Mickery, it 
 comprises about 4900 acres. Its surface is beautifully 
 diversified, containing part of the Corstorphine hill; 
 and the surrounding district abounds with interesting 
 features, and with every variety of picturesque and 
 romantic scenery. The island of Cramond, which at 
 low water is accessible on foot, contains about nineteen 
 acres, affording excellent pasturage for sheep, and has 
 two or three cottages for the accommodation of sea- 
 bathers : towards the centre it rises to a considerable 
 height, and on the east are some precipitous cliffs of 
 granite. It anciently belonged to the bishops of Dun- 
 keld, and subsequently to the Balmerino family. Be- 
 237 
 
 tween this island and Inch-Colm, nearly in the centre of 
 the Firth, is the small rocky islet of Inch-Mickery, 
 covered with mosses and sea-weed. The soil is fertile, 
 and the lands are in a high state of cultivation, pro- 
 ducing crops of every kind. There are several seams 
 of coal in the parish, which have been occasionally 
 wrought ; but the quality is not such as to encourage 
 the continuance of the mines. Excellent freestone is 
 found on the lands of the Duke of Buccleuch, and from 
 quarries here were raised the materials for the construc- 
 tion of the harbour and pier of Granton. The annual 
 value of real property in the Edinburgl* portion of the 
 parish is £16,100. Among the numerous seats and 
 mansions are, Barnton, Lauriston, Cramond House, 
 Caroline Park, Muir House, New Saughton, Braehead, 
 and Craigcrook : the first mentioned was a hunting-seat 
 of one of the kings of Scotland. The village of Cra- 
 mond lies in a romantic valley on the east side of the 
 Almond, and opposite to the pleasure-grounds of Dal- 
 meny Park on the west bank of that river; it is neatly 
 built, and is a favourite resort of the inhabitants of 
 Edinburgh during the summer months. Near it are 
 some iron and paper works, established in 1771, which 
 are still carried on with spirit, and afford regular em- 
 ployment to a considerable number of the population. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Edinburgh, synod of 
 Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is 
 £271, with an excellent manse, and a glebe valued at 
 £20 per annum ; patrons, the family of Ramsay, of 
 Barnton. The church was erected in 1 656, since which 
 time it has been frequently enlarged and repaired. 
 There is a place of worship for members of the Free 
 Church at Davidson's-Mains, the largest village in the 
 parish. The parochial school is attended by a con- 
 siderable number of children ; the master has a salary 
 of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees average 
 about £30. There are upwards of £3000 in charitable 
 bequests, the interest of which, besides the legal assess- 
 ment, is distributed amongst the poor ; also funds for 
 the distribution of coal and meal, and for education. 
 Altogether the parish contains eight schools, three of 
 which are conducted by female teachers. Cramond has 
 given birth to several eminent and remarkable men. 
 Of these, may be mentioned, John, Lord Balmerino, the 
 opposer of Charles I. and friend of the Covenanters ; 
 Sir Thomas Hope, the celebrated lawyer of the Scottish 
 bar ; Sir George Mackenzie, first Earl of Cromarty, an 
 able writer ; Dr. Cleghorn, professor of anatomy in the 
 university of Dublin, who may be considered as the 
 founder of the school of medicine there ; and John 
 Law, of Lauriston. This last-named extraordinary cha- 
 racter raised himself to the dignity of comptroller- 
 general of the finances of France, upon the strength of a 
 scheme for establishing a bank, an East India, and a 
 Mississippi, company, by the profits of which the national 
 debt of France was to be paid off. In 1718, his bank 
 was declared a royal one, and the shares rose to upwards 
 of twenty-fold the original value, so that, in 1719, they 
 were worth more than eighty times the amount of all 
 the current specie in France. But the following year 
 this great fabric of false credit fell to the ground, almost 
 overthrew the government, and ruined tens of thousands 
 of families. Craigcrook, in the parish, was the resi- 
 dence of Lord Jeffrey, the distinguished critic : he was
 
 C R A N 
 
 C R AN 
 
 born at Edinburgh in 1773, and died here on the 26th 
 January, 1850. — See Granton. 
 
 CRANSHAWS, a parish, in the county of Ber- 
 wick, 9 miles (N. W.) from Dunse ; containing 1'20 
 inhabitants. The derivation of the name of this place 
 is doubtful, some supposing it to have been applied in 
 consequence of the number of cranes or herons by 
 which the district was originally visited, while others 
 trace it to the cranberry bush, which is a native of the 
 hills and mosses. In the fourteenth century the barony 
 was possessed by the family of Douglas ; and in 1401, 
 Archibald, the. fourth Earl of Douglas, assigned the 
 estates to Sir John Swinton, of Swiuton, whom he calls 
 in the deed dilectus consanguineus noster. The family of 
 Swinton held the property for a considerable period ; 
 and in June 1640 an act was passed by the parliament, 
 confirming to them the baronies of Swinton and Cran- 
 shaws, with the teinds, and the patronage of the church. 
 In the times of the border warfare, the district was in- 
 volved in the general commotions, and Cranshaws Castle 
 appears to have been a place of refuge from the sudden 
 incursions of the English, as well as the old castle of 
 Scarlaw, which was used by the inhabitants of another 
 division of the parish. 
 
 The PARISH, which is pastoral, is divided into two 
 distinct portions by the intervention of the parish of 
 Longfonnacus. The part in which the church stands is 
 a pentagon in form, containing about six square miles, 
 and bounded by the Whitadder river on the north and 
 east : the other part of the parish is about five miles 
 long, two in mean breadth, and is bounded on the north 
 and north-east by the Dye Water, a tributary of the 
 Whitadder. The surface consists chiefly of lofty hills, 
 covered to a great extent with heath, and best suited to 
 pasture, although most of the farms have each a portion 
 of arable land. The highest ground is JManslaughter- 
 Law, so called, as tradition reports, from a bloody en- 
 gagement which took place near it, in 140*2, between 
 the Earl of Dunbar and Hepburn of Hailes. There are 
 numerous springs in the parish, one of which is chaly- 
 beate. About 350 acres only are under tillage, the 
 produce consisting of oats, barley, peas, turnips, potatoes, 
 and sown grasses ; the grain is sent to Haddington and 
 Dunbar. There are about 4400 sheep kept ; they are 
 all Cheviots, and are sent to Gilford, Dunse, and Edin- 
 burgh : the black-cattle are a mixture of several kinds. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £1132. 
 The principal substrata are greywacke and greywacke- 
 slate. Boulders of granite, sienite, and porphyry are 
 washed down from rocks of conglomerate in the parishes 
 of Stenton and Whittingham ; and in Cranshaws Hill is 
 a fine conglomerated rock, with an intermixture of iron- 
 ore. Near this occurs sandstone of the secondary for- 
 mation, coloured by grains of iron, and of good quality 
 for building ; and from the same hill wherein this is 
 found, large quantities of yellow-ochre issue, which are 
 used by the people in colouring the walls of houses. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dunse, synod of Merse and Teviotdale. 
 The minister's stipend is £158. 6. 8., of which more 
 than three-fourths are received from the exchequer, and 
 there is a manse, with a glebe valued at £17 per annum ; 
 patroness, Lady Aberdour. Cranshaws church, a very 
 plain edifice, was built in 1/39, and will contain 120 
 persons. A parochial school is supported, in which all 
 238 
 
 the usual branches of education are taught ; the master's 
 salary is £34, with about £10 fees, and the allowance of 
 house and garden. There is also a parochial library, 
 consisting of 200 volumes. The chief relic of antiquity 
 is the Castle of Cranshaws, an oblong structure of forty 
 feet by twenty-four, with walls forty-five feet high, and 
 a modern battlement. Upon a hill on the south-west 
 side of the parish are two immense heaps of stones, said 
 to have been collected to commemorate the death of 
 twin-brothers of the name of Edgar, who fell while com- 
 manding different portions of an army which had mu- 
 tinied : these stones are called the Twin-law Cairns. 
 (See the article on Wesfruther.) In the back wall of 
 the church, and opposite the pulpit, are figures, cut in 
 stone, of two unicorns supporting a crown, with a lion 
 between them. The traditional tale with respect to 
 these figures is, that a king of Scotland, returning from 
 a hunt on Saturday, arrived at Cranshaws Castle, and 
 went next day to the then existing church ; that, when 
 the congregation was dismissed, he complimented the 
 clergyman on his performance, but reminded him of one 
 omission, the not praying for the king ; and that, to 
 prevent similar neglects in future, his majesty ordered 
 the above arms to be placed before the pulpit. 
 
 CRANSTON, or Cranstoun, a parish, in the county 
 of Edinburgh, 1 mile (N. by W.) from Ford; contain- 
 ing, with the villages of Chesterhill, Cowsland, Preston, 
 and Sauchenside, 1 128 inhabitants. The name is said 
 to be derived from an Anglo-Saxon word, signifying 
 " the crane's district", and applied on account of the 
 number of cranes that resorted to this part. In the 
 twelfth century, the parish was divided into two manors 
 called Upper and Nether Cranston, in the latter of 
 which the church was situated. Early in the reign of 
 WiUiam, Upper Cranston was possessed by Elfric de 
 Cranestun, who derived his surname from the manor, 
 and whose descendants retained the property till the 
 time of Charles II., when William, the third Lord Cran- 
 stoun, sold it to Sir John Fletcher, the king's advocate. 
 Nether Cranston, which was the larger of the two 
 manors, was granted by Earl Henry to Hugh Ridel, 
 from whom it obtained the name of Cranston-Ridel, 
 which it retained till recent times. The church, with 
 its tithes and other pertinents, was bestowed by Hugh 
 Ridel upon the monks of Kelso, for the sake of the soul 
 of David I. and that of Earl Henry ; and with them 
 it continued till 1317. During this period they enjoyed 
 the revenues of the rectory, a minister serving the 
 cure, and receiving the vicarial tithes. The manor and 
 chapelry of Cousland were annexed to the parish of 
 Cranston at the Reformation : the chapel was burnt by 
 Somerset, when he invaded Scotland with a large army 
 to coerce Queen Mary into a marriage with the young 
 king of England. 
 
 The PARISH, which is entirely agricultural, is five 
 miles in length and three in breadth, and contains an 
 area of about 6000 acres ; including the lands of Cake- 
 muir, separated from the main portion of Cranston by 
 the parish of Crichton. The surface is varied by con- 
 tinued inequalities ; and the undulations, adorned with 
 fine scats and flourishing woodlands, and the well culti- 
 vated and verdant fields, render the general aspect in- 
 teresting and beautiful. The prospects from the more 
 elevated grounds are commanding ; and the picturesque 
 valley through which the Tyne river here pursues its 
 
 I
 
 C R A T 
 
 C R A T 
 
 course from south to north, adds greatly to the scenery. 
 The soil, consisting partly of clay and partly of light 
 earth, is generally fertile, and the whole of the land is 
 arable, with the exception of about 300 acres in Cake- 
 muir, and about the same quantity occupied by wood. 
 Every kind of crop is raised, of good quality ; but the 
 staple commodity is corn, which is sent to the Dalkeith 
 market, about four miles distant. All the modern im- 
 provements in husbandry have been introduced, and the 
 farm-buildings and inclosures are in good order. There 
 are several quarries of freestone and limestone, from 
 which an abundant supply is obtained, and splint-coal 
 is also wrought to a very considerable extent. The an- 
 nual value of real property in the parish is £6S13. 
 
 The chief mansions are, Oxenford Castle, the seat of 
 the Earl of Stair, a magnificent building, situated on the 
 west bank of the Tyne, and surrounded by beautiful 
 grounds ; and Preston Hall, on the east bank of the 
 river, the splendid residence of W. B. Callender, Esq. 
 The mansion-house of Cakemuir is likewise a remark- 
 able building ; the ancient part is of great age, consist- 
 ing of a square tower, with boldly projecting battlements 
 and walls of extraordinary thickness. An apartment 
 here is called Queen Mary's room, and it is supposed 
 that the name has arisen from the circumstance of that 
 princess having occupied it shortly after her flight from 
 Borthwick, in the vicinity. Chesterhall House, a rather 
 old structure, was lately taken down. The parish is 
 crossed by two good turnpike-roads, and facility of com- 
 munication is afforded by two new and excellent bridges 
 on one of them. That at Cranston Dean is forty-six 
 feet high, and consists of three arches, each of seventeen 
 feet span : Lothian Bridge is eighty-two feet high, and 
 consists of five arches, each of fifty feet span, sur- 
 mounted by ten segment arches, each of fifty-four feet 
 span and eight feet rise. On the same line of road an 
 embankment has been formed over the Cotty burn, at 
 the height of fifty-four feet, by which the distance is 
 diminished 1200 yards. For ecclesiastical purposes the 
 parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of Dal. 
 keith, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; patron, the 
 Earl of Stair. The stipend of the minister is about 
 £';i60, with an elegant manse, built in 1830, at the ex- 
 pense of Mr. Callender, and a glebe let at £29. 10. per 
 annum. Cranston church is a neat edifice of freestone, 
 built in 1825, at the cost of Sir John Dalrymple, and 
 will accommodate about 350 persons. There is a paro- 
 chial school, where the usual branches of education are 
 taught; the master's salary is £34, with £21. 10. fees, 
 and the allowance of house and garden. A good parish 
 library was instituted in 1830, and the poor have the 
 interest of £357 left by some charitable persons. Many 
 petrifactions are found. 
 
 CRATHIE and BRAEMAR, a parish, in the district 
 of Kincardine O'Neii., county of Aberdeen, Crathie 
 being 22 miles and Braemar 32 miles (W. by S.) from 
 Kincardine O'Neil ; and the whole containing 1712 in- 
 habitants. The word Crathie is supposed to be of 
 Gaelic origin, and derived from the words crag- and tir 
 or thir, which signify " stony or rocky land," and are 
 descriptive of the general appearance of the surface. The 
 ancient parish of Braemar (a name expressive of the 
 highest land in the three districts, Buchan, Garioch, and 
 Mar, into which the county was once distributed) was in 
 early times called St. Andrew's, and subsequently Bridg- 
 239 
 
 end, the latter name in consequence of a bridge having 
 been built over the Cluney at Castletown by Malcolm- 
 Ceaun-Mor, who had a hunting-seat here. It received 
 its present designation towards the end of the reign of 
 Mary, when the lands about Castletown became the 
 property of the Earl of Mar ; but at what time it was 
 united to Crathie is uncertain. The united parish ex- 
 tends about forty miles in length and twenty in breadth, 
 and is situated in the heart of the Grampian range. The 
 principal part was in ancient times covered with wood ; 
 it was included in the great Caledonian forest, and has 
 always been celebrated for its abundance of superior 
 timber, and the number of fine deer which traverse it. 
 This district was the rendezvous of the inhabitants of the 
 country in the time of the Romans, and afterwards a 
 stronghold of the Highland clans. On the lands of 
 Monaltry, on the north bank of the river Dee, in a 
 narrow pass, is Carn-na-Cuimhne, " the cairn of remem- 
 brance ", so named on account of the chieftains, in times 
 of danger, marching with their followers through the 
 pass, and causing each man to lay down a stone, by 
 which they might ascertain, on their return, how many 
 had followed them to battle, and what number had been 
 lost in the conflict. The castle of Braemar was built as 
 a seat of the ancient Earls of Mar, but was subsequently 
 used as a garrison to keep in awe the lawless chieftains, 
 and in 1748 was let to government for barracks, the 
 great military road from Blairgowrie to Fort-George and 
 Aberdeen passing through the district, close by Carn-na- 
 Cuimhne. In the vale of the Dee, near the castle, the 
 Earl of Mar, in 1715, first erected the standard of the 
 Pretender, as noticed in the article on Castletown. 
 
 The PARISH comprises 199,658 acres, of which, in 
 comparison with the extent of the district, but few are 
 under cultivation ; between 10,000 and 11,000 are occu- 
 pied by wood, natural and planted, and the remainder 
 is arable land, hill pasture, mountains, and moor. The 
 scenery of the whole is highly diversified, and can 
 scarcely, for grandeur and sublimity, be surpassed by 
 any in the county. Braemar, which is especially moun- 
 tainous, and the forests of which are well stocked with 
 deer and game, is said to be the highest land above the 
 sea in all Scotland, and the furthest removed in every 
 direction from the coast. The principal lochs are those 
 of Callader and Bhrodichan, in the midst of hills on the 
 estate of Invercauld ; the former contains salmon, and 
 the latter red trout. The Dee, which rises in the moun- 
 tain of Breriach, from a well or fountain 4060 feet above 
 the level of the sea, flows through the parish in a serpen- 
 tine course, augmented by numerous tributaries, and 
 displays several beautiful cascades, especially one called 
 the Linn of Dee. It falls into the German Ocean after a 
 course of more than ninety miles from its source, at 
 Aberdeen, where it forms the harbour of that city. There 
 are also cascades, which are much admired, on the 
 Quoich, the burn of Corymulzie, and the Garrobhalt : 
 that at Corymulzie is particularly striking. The most 
 lofty mountain is Ben-Macdhui or Bennainuickduidh, 
 rising to an elevation of 4390 feet, and which, by a 
 recent survey, has been found to be twenty feet higher 
 than Ben-Nevis, previously reputed the highest mountain 
 in Britain. Cairntoul and Bennabuird are respectively 
 4220 and 3940 feet above the sea, and, with Bennamuick- 
 duidh, are the principal elevations, all situated on the 
 north-west boundaries of Braemar : Lochnagar, on the
 
 C R AT 
 
 C R A T 
 
 south-eastern side of the parish, rises 3815 feet. These 
 imposing mountains, covered to a great extent with 
 wood of almost every kind and hue, and exhibiting in 
 many places their boldly-shelving cliffs, with the grassy 
 plains and winding streams ornamenting the lower 
 grounds, form a rich assemblage of natural beauties 
 which can scarcely tail to charm the tourist. 
 
 The SOIL in some places is shallow and sandy, and 
 in others loamy and dry, incumbent on clay or gravel. 
 Oats and bear are raised, and the green crops comprise 
 turnips, potatoes, peas, and hay. Live stock is much 
 attended to ; the black-faced sheep and small black- 
 cattle are the prevailing breeds, and the large quantity 
 of hill pasture attached to each farm affords a fine range 
 for their support. Agriculture has much advanced 
 within these few years ; and among other improvements, 
 many stone dykes have been constructed as inclosures, 
 and several secure embankments have been raised against 
 the overflowings of the river Dee. The rocks, which are 
 covered with a thin mossy soil of dark hue, are chiefly 
 pure granite, of different colours, and of so close and 
 firm a texture that, when highly polished, it resembles 
 marble. Limestone is also abundant in the district, 
 masses of which protrude in many places ; and there is 
 a species of very hard flinty stone or rock found, which is 
 supposed to contain a portion of iron-ore. The proprie- 
 tors of the parish are, the Earl of Fife ; the Farquharson 
 family, of Invercauld ; and the Gordon family, of Aber- 
 geldie. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £6600. The natural wood consists principally of 
 Scotch fir, birch, mountain-ash, poplar, and alder ; the 
 plantations contain the various firs, but chiefly larch, 
 which is of quick growth, and is much esteemed as a 
 substitute, in many cases, for hard-wood, to the growth 
 of which the climate is not suited. Some of the firs in 
 the forest of Mar are supposed to be between 300 and 
 400 years old, and exhibit specimens rarely, if ever, 
 equalled in any other part of Britain. 
 
 The mansion of Invercauld is situated in the noble 
 valley of the Dee, in the midst of some of the grandest 
 scenery in the Highlands : in front of it is a spacious 
 lawn, formed of the eastern extremity of the haughs of 
 Castletown, and behind the mansion rises a finely-wooded 
 mountain. Within the parish are also the seats of Bal- 
 moral and Abergeldie in Crathie, and Mar Lodge and 
 Corymulzie in Braemar. Of these, Balmoral forms the 
 Highland residence of Her Majesty the Queen, the rever- 
 sion of the lease formerly held by the late Rt. Hon. Sir 
 Robert Gordon having been purchased by His Royal 
 Highness Prince Albert in 1848. The first royal visit 
 was paid in the month of September of that year : Her 
 Majesty and the Prince, the Prince of Wales, Prince 
 Alfred, and the Princess Royal, arrived here with their 
 attendants from Aberdeen on the Sth of September, and 
 quitted Balmoral on the 28th for Montrose, thence pro- 
 ceeding by railway to London, where they arrived on the 
 1st of October. A second visit was paid the i;ext year : 
 after their visit to Ireland, the royal family, consisting of 
 Her Majesty, the Prince, and four of the royal children, 
 proceeded by way of Glasgow and Perth, to Balmoral, 
 where they arrived on the 15th of August, and remained 
 until the "JTth of September. Since the first visit the 
 house had been much improved, and the pleasure-grounds 
 newly laid out. A third royal visit was paid in the 
 year 1850. The neighbourhood of this royal retreat 
 240 
 
 presents some of the most majestic natural features in 
 the whole country. Here the south bank of the Dee 
 forms a fine peninsula and verdant lawn, encircled by a 
 belting of luxuriant birch-trees. The foreground is 
 occupied by the slope of Craigoun, a hill that rises from 
 the valley, by a gentle acclivity, to the height of 1000 
 feet above the level of the sea. The face of the hill is 
 covered with wood, and forms part of the forest of Mar. 
 Over the left shoulder, when seen from the north side of 
 the river, appears the summit of "dark Lochnagar ", 
 a mountain celebrated for its " steep frowning glories "; 
 while a noble range of heath-clad mountains, disposed 
 in a curve within a radius of ten miles, constitute a 
 background grand in the extreme. In the centre of the 
 peninsula, within this magnificent amphitheatre, and 
 just at the base of Craigoun, stands the castle of Balmo- 
 ral. Abergeldie Castle has been taken for a term by 
 H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent. Mar Lodge forms the 
 shooting-quarters of the Duke of Leeds : opposite to 
 it, on the south side of the valley, is a hill called Craig 
 Nich, a term said to signify " the rock or hill of the 
 eagles ". Corymvlzie, situated about a mile from Mar 
 Lodge, is another Highland retreat, and, for quiet love- 
 liness, has no equal on all Deeside : it is the shooting- 
 box of General Sir Alexander Duff. The parish contains 
 the villages of Castletown and Auchindryne, both in the 
 Braemar district ; and at the former place, which is the 
 more important, three annual fairs are held, two of them 
 principally for cattle, and the other for sheep and cattle : 
 an annual fair is also held at Clachnaturn, in Crathie. 
 There are two excellent inns in Braemar, where post- 
 horses are kept ; and also a daily post from Aberdeen. 
 Messrs. Begg have a distillery for whisky in the parish, 
 called the Lochnagar distillery. 
 
 Ecclesiastically, the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Kincardine O'Neil, synod of Aberdeen, and in the patron- 
 age of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is £233. 10., 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £8 per annum. 
 The church, built in 1S06, stands on a foundation hewn 
 out of a rocky terrace, which juts out at the base of 
 Craigoun, on the north side of the new Deeside road. 
 It is a plain structure, of no pretensions in point of 
 architecture, but commands a very fine view of the 
 valley of the Dee. Nearly opposite, only a little to the 
 west, the river makes a noble sweep round a fair and 
 spacious haugh, on which stands the castle of Balmoral, 
 surrounded by ancient and stately trees. The sacred 
 building contains 1400 sittings. An ordained missionary 
 regularly officiates at Castletown, and there is a Roman 
 Catholic chapel at the same village ; also a place of wor- 
 ship for members of the Free Church in the parish. 
 The parochial school affords instruction in the usual 
 branches ; the master has a salary of £26, with a house 
 and garden, and £8 fees. There are two schools for 
 boys, and three for girls, supported by the Society for 
 Promoting Christian Knowledge ; a school is supported 
 also by the General Assembly, and two schools are kept 
 in Braemar, during the winter, by the Roman Catholics. 
 A friendly society was established in 1815, and re- 
 modelled in 1830, under the title of the Braemar High- 
 land Society : its annual meeting is held in August, 
 when many gentlemen attend ; and its funds are appro- 
 priated partly to the relief of sick and aged members, 
 and the purchase of annuities for widows and orphans, 
 and partly to the encouragement of ancient games. A
 
 CRAW 
 
 CHAW 
 
 savings' bank was instituted in 1S16, and has now a 
 capital of upwards of £'2000. Tiae ruins of the castle 
 built by Malcolm- Ceann-Mor are still standing. 
 
 CRAWFORD, a parish, in the Upper ward of the 
 county of Lanark; including the village of Leadhills, 
 and containing 16S4 inhabitants, of whom 236 are in 
 the village of Crawford, 3 miles (S. E.) from Abington. 
 This place has claims to a considerable degree of an- 
 tiquity. In the year 943, or about that time, a church 
 was founded here, and dedicated to Constantine, King of 
 Scotland ; and the lands appear to have been subse- 
 quently divided into two portions, of which the larger 
 was bestowed on the monastery of Newbattle, and the 
 smaller on that of Holyrood. It seems to have been 
 exposed to incessant attacks during the border warfare 
 and the feuds of rival clans, and many of the ancient 
 farm-houses were constructed as well for the purpose of 
 defence against an assailing foe as for domestic use. The 
 population was formerly much greater than it is at pre- 
 sent, and the lands were divided among a larger number 
 of tenants, the practice of joining together several small 
 farms having for the last century been very prevalent in 
 this part of the country. The parish is situated in the 
 south-east portion of the county ; it is about eighteen 
 miles in length, and from fourteen to fifteen in breadth, 
 and comprises 7'^, 500 acres, of which 74,l.'iO are pas- 
 ture, chiefly sheep-walks, 1200 arable, and 1.50 in wood 
 and plantations. Its surface is mountainous, and broken 
 into glens and spreading valleys in almost every direc- 
 tion ; the highest of the mountains are the Lowthers, 
 which are chiefly in this parish, and have an average ele- 
 vation of about 2450 feet above the sea. The hills in 
 general rise gradually from their bases, and aflFord good 
 pasturage for sheep ; and the valleys between them, es- 
 pecially such as have been improved by draining, are 
 fertile. The river Clyde has its source in the parish, on 
 a hill 1400 feet above the level of the sea, and flows in a 
 gentle stream till it receives the river Daer and numerous 
 other tributaries in its course through the parish. There 
 are springs of excellent water, affording an abundant 
 supply. 
 
 The soil of the arable land is rich on the banks of the 
 Clyde, and also near the streams which fall into that 
 river, especially at their influx. In the other parts of 
 the parish it is very various, though great improvements 
 have been made by the use of lime and the introduction 
 of green crops. The chief crops are oats, which thrive 
 well ; and the few dairies are profitably managed, afford- 
 ing, besides the produce of the dairy, excellent oppor- 
 tunities of rearing young cattle, of which, however, not 
 many are reared, sheep being more profitable. The sheep 
 are mostly of the Cheviot breed, to which the former 
 stock of short and black faced sheep has given place. 
 Wood does not now flourish ; but there are several trees 
 of great age, which are supposed to be the remains of an 
 ancient forest ; and a charter is still extant, in the pos- 
 session of the Marquess of Lothian, in which the in- 
 habitants of the parish of Crawford are invested with 
 liberty to cut wood in the forest of Glengonncr, where 
 there are now only two or three solitary trees. The 
 substratum of the soil is partially transition rock, and 
 greywacke in all its various formations. Slate, though 
 not of very good quality, is found, and a quarry has been 
 opened on the lands of the Earl of Ilopetoun, which gives 
 employment to a few men throughout the year. The 
 Vol. I.— 241 
 
 raining district of Leadhills is extensive, comprising an 
 area three miles in length, and of nearly equal breadth, 
 and is rich in a great variety of produce : a populous 
 village has been erected within this district, which is de- 
 scribed under the appellation of Leadhills. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £12,341. The 
 principal mansion-houses are the Hall, belonging to the . 
 Earl of Hopetoun ; and Newton House, the seat of the 
 late Lord Newton, by whom it was erected, in a sub- 
 stantial and handsome style. 
 
 The village of Crawford is of considerable antiquity, 
 and formerly enjoyed numerous privileges, being an- 
 ciently governed by a bailie of barony, and in later times 
 having a court called a Birley court ; it is situated on 
 the road from Carlisle to Glasgow, and the inhabitants 
 are chiefly employed in agriculture. A handsome chain- 
 bridge was constructed over the Clyde at this place, in 
 1831, at the expense of the heritors ; and over the same 
 river, at Newton, is an elegant stone bridge, erected in 
 ] 824. Great facility of intercourse is aftbrded by the 
 Caledonian railway, which passes through the parish, 
 along the vale of the Clyde. Ecclesiastically the parish 
 is in the presbytery of Lanark, synod of Glasgow and 
 Ayr: the minister's stipend is £233. 13., with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £13. 10. per annum ; patron, the 
 Crown. Crawford church, an ancient structure in good 
 repair, is conveniently situated, and affords accommoda- 
 tion to about 300 persons. There is a chapel in con- 
 nexion with the Established Church at Leadhills, the 
 minister of which has a stipend of £"0, with a house, 
 provided by the Earl of Hopetoun and the Mining Com- 
 pany. The parochial school affords a good education ; 
 the master has a salary of £34, with £16 fees, and a 
 house and garden. 
 
 There are several mineral springs, two of which re- 
 semble in their properties those of Moffat ; and near 
 the boundary of the parish, at Campshead, is a petrifying 
 spring, in which many beautiful specimens are found. 
 Among the principal remains of antiquity is the castle of 
 Crawford, which was surrounded by a moat, and strongly 
 fortified ; and there are still preserved memorials of 
 ecclesiastical edifices formerly existing in the parish, one 
 of which is an ancient cemetery on the banks of a stream 
 called Chapel Burn. There are also several Roman 
 camps, the most perfect of them being one on Boads- 
 berry hill, and another on a farm called Whitecamp ; 
 the two Roman roads by Moffat and Dumfries united in 
 this parish, and formed one great road towards Laming- 
 ton. An urn of baked earth, containing fragments of 
 bones, was discovered some years since on the Castle 
 farm. The celebrated poet Allan Ramsay was born at 
 Leadhills, where he resided till his removal to Edin- 
 burgh ; and James Taylor, to whom is attributed the 
 first discovery of the application of steam to the pro- 
 pelling of vessels on the sea, and who assisted Mr. Miller 
 of Dalswinton in making some successful experiments in 
 1788, was the son of one of the overseers in the mines at 
 Leadhills. 
 
 CRAWFORDJOHN, a parish, in the Upper ward 
 of the county of Lanark ; including th* post-village of 
 Abington, and containing 993 inhabitants, of whom 137 
 are in the village of Crawfordjohn. This place, the name 
 of which is supposed to have been derived from some 
 proprietor of lands within the district, appears to have 
 been originally a chapelry in the parish of Wiston. It 
 
 2 1
 
 CRAW 
 
 was granted, together with the church of that place, to 
 the monastery of Glasgow, and subsequently to that of 
 Kelso, which retained it till about the year 1450, when 
 it became a separate and independent parish. The lands 
 coming into the possession of two co-heiresses, were for 
 a considerable time held in moieties, till, in the reign of 
 James V., Sir James Hamilton of Finart obtained them. 
 After his decease, they descended to the Harailtons of 
 this place and Avondale, from whom, with the patronage 
 of the church, they were purchased by James, Marquess 
 of Hamilton, about the year 16'20. In the reign of 
 Charles II., the village of Crawfordjohn was, by charter 
 granted to Anne, Duchess of Hamilton, made a burgh of 
 barony, and the inhabitants were endowed with the 
 privilege of a weekly market and several annual fairs, 
 ■which have long been in disuse. Few events of historical 
 importance are recorded as connected with the place : 
 part of the rebel forces passed through it on their march 
 to Glasgow, in the year 1745. 
 
 The PARISH is for the most part pleasantly situated on 
 the banks of the river Duneaton, which partly separates 
 it on the north from the parish of Douglas. It is 
 bounded on the south by the river Glengonner. On the 
 east flows the river Clyde ; while on the west are the 
 counties of Dumfries and Ayr, which unite with that of 
 Lanark on the border of the parish, at a point where a 
 stone has been erected called the Three-shire stone. The 
 length of the parish is nearly twelve miles, as seen upon 
 Forrest's map ; and its breadth, which may be averaged 
 at nine, varies from two to ten miles ; comprising an 
 irregular area of '26,600 acres, of which 4'200 are arable, 
 about 60 plantation, and the remainder pasture for sheep. 
 The surface is flat only upon the borders of the rivers, 
 and sometimes for a very short distance ; the general 
 aspect of the greater portion of it is that of one beautiful 
 slen, inclosed by gently sloping hills of various elevation, 
 and along which the river Duneaton winds its course 
 for many miles, receiving in its progress the waters of 
 the Snar, Blackburn, and other streams. The rivers 
 abound with trout, and the Blackburn is celebrated for 
 a dark-coloured species, which excels in quality, and is 
 in great request, and also for eels, some of which are of 
 large size. 
 
 The SOIL is extremely various. On the banks of the 
 river it is a rich black loam, except in those parts which 
 are subject to inundation, where it becomes mixed with 
 sand and gravel. The sides of the hills are in some 
 places a deep red clay, capable under proper manage- 
 ment of producing excellent crops ; and in several parts 
 is a deep moss, which, after judicious draining, has in 
 many instances been converted into fertile arable land. 
 The principal crops are oats, bear, potatoes, and turnips. 
 The pastures are very rich ; the meadows afford excellent 
 hay and in large quantities, the crops of clover and rye- 
 grass are abundant, and the hills present good pasturage 
 for sheep, of which the permanent stock in the parish 
 exceeds 10,000. There are several large dairy-farms pro- 
 ducing butter and cheese which are of excellent quahty, 
 and find a ready market at Edinburgh and Glasgow. In 
 a few dairies, the curds of cows' and ewes' milk have 
 been wrought separately, and then put the one upon the 
 other into the same vat, and pressed : this cheese, having 
 two sides of different qualities, has brought a high price, 
 and is in great demand. The number of cows and 
 heifers exceeds 1000, chiefly of the Ayrshire breed, to 
 242 
 
 CRAW 
 
 the improvement of which much attention has been paid ; 
 the sheep are of the black -faced kind, except a few of a 
 mixed breed between the Cheviot and the Leicester. The 
 plantations, which are chiefly at Glespin, Gilkerscleugh, 
 and Abington, are Scotch fir, spruce, beech, lime, ches- 
 nut, and oak. Some advance has been made in draining 
 and inclosing the lands ; and a society for encouraging 
 the improvement of live stock has been established by 
 the farmers of this and the parish of Crawford, which 
 has been sanctioned by many of the heritors in both. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £6329. 
 The substratum of the soil and the bases of the hills are 
 mostly whinstone and freestone, of which several quarries 
 are worked ; limestone is also prevalent, and works 
 have been established at Whitecleugh and Wildshaw, 
 the latter on the borders of Douglas parish. There are 
 indications of coal in several parts of the parish, though 
 no works have been opened ; lead-ore has been found at 
 Craighead, and near the source of the Snar, at which 
 latter place it is wrought. Some vestiges remain of a 
 work opened at Abington for the discovery of gold ; and 
 in repairing a road some years since, several pieces of 
 spar, in which copper was embedded, were found among 
 the rubbish. There is also a tradition that silver-mines 
 were formerly wrought in the parish : probably it origi- 
 nated in finding small portions of that metal in combina- 
 tion with the lead-ore. Through the lower part of the 
 parish the road from Glasgow to Carlisle passes for about 
 five miles, and in a neighbouring parish is the Abington 
 station of the Caledonian railway, presenting great faci- 
 lity of communication. A subscription library has been 
 established in the village of Crawfordjohn, and there is 
 likewise one supported at Abington. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is in the presbytery of Lanark, synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr : the minister's stipend is about £235, with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £16 per annum ; patron. Sir 
 T. E. Colebrooke. Crawfordjohn church, which is con- 
 veniently situated, was enlarged in 181", and will accom- 
 modate 300 persons. The parochial school is attended by 
 about seventy scholars ; the master has a salary of £32. 
 10., with about £26 fees, and a house and garden. 
 
 There were formerly the remains of the castles of 
 Crawfordjohn, Boghouse, Mosscastle, Glendorch, and 
 Snar, the last of which was celebrated for the exploits of 
 its proprietor during the border warfare. On the bleak 
 hill opposite Gilkerscleugh are traces of a circular en- 
 campment consisting of two concentric circles, the in- 
 nermost of which is about thirty yards in diameter, and 
 has between it and the outer an interval of ten yards. 
 There are vestiges of a similar intrenchment near Abing- 
 ton ; and on the bank of the Clyde is the appearance 
 of a moat, within which is a mound fifty yards in cir- 
 cumference at the base, and thirty feet higher than the 
 surface of the water. In the peat- bogs have been fre- 
 quently discovered alder-trees and hazel in a prostrate 
 position, and, at various times, coins of Antoninus, and 
 others of the reign of Edward I. 
 
 CRAWFURD'S-DYKE, in the county of Renfre-w. 
 — See Cartsdyke. 
 
 CRAWICKBRIDGE and CRA"W'ICKMILL, villages, 
 in the parish of Sanquhar, county of Dumfries, 1 mile 
 (N. N. W.) from Sanquhar; the one containing 71, and 
 the other 144 inhabitants. These places are situated on 
 the beautiful stream of the Crawick, which separates the 
 parish from Kirkconael, and, after a south-west course 
 
 I
 
 C RE E 
 
 C REI 
 
 of about nine miles, falls into the Nith near the manse of 
 Sanquhar. At Crawickinill is an extensive carpet manu- 
 factory, in which upwards of a hundred persons are em- 
 ployed in the various processes of dyeing, spinning, and 
 weaving the materials. 
 
 CRAWTON, a village, in the parish of Dunnottar, 
 county of Kincardine, 3| miles (S.) from Stonehaven ; 
 containing 77 inhabitants. It is situated in the south- 
 eastern part of the parish, and chiefly inhabited by per- 
 sons employed in fishing. There is a small harbour well 
 adapted for the purpose. The fish taken off this part of 
 the coast are haddock, whiting, cod, ling, skate, halibut, 
 flounders, and a few turbot ; and lobsters of good quality 
 are also found in abundance. 
 
 CREAN-MULL ISLES, two of the Hebrides, in the 
 parish of Barra, county of Inverness. They are of 
 very small extent, and are uninhabited : both lie in the 
 Sound of Pabbay, between the islands of Pabbay and 
 Saundray, and a little east of Lingay. 
 
 CREEBRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Minni- 
 gaff, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, a short distance 
 (E.) from Newton-Stewart ; containing '262 inhabitants. 
 This place consists of a street of good houses, lately built 
 near a bridge over the Cree, and about a quarter of a 
 mile below the village of Minnigaff. The bridge, from 
 which it takes its name, is a handsome structure of 
 granite, of five arches, connecting the village with the 
 town of Newton-Stewart. The Cree rises on the border 
 of Ayrshire, and for several miles of its course is incon- 
 siderable, but, increased by tributary streams, it changes 
 its appearance, and pursuing its way through a beautiful 
 valley, empties itself into the bay of Wigtown. It is na- 
 vigable for some miles. 
 
 CREETOWN, a burgh of barony, and a port, in the 
 parish of Kirkmabreck, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 
 6 , miles (S. E.) from Newton-Stewart ; containing 9S4 
 inhabitants. This place, which takes its name from its 
 situation on the river Cree, is of some antiquity, and 
 under the name of " Creth " was the rendezvous of the 
 English army in 1300. It appears to have been of con- 
 siderable extent, and, from a ferry over the river, obtained 
 subsequently the name of the Ferry-Town of Cree. It is 
 probable that the ancient villSge had fallen into decay 
 before the erection of the present town, which was com- 
 menced in 178.5, and in 1/92 contained only fifty houses. 
 The town is situated at the mouth of the river, on the 
 eastern shore of Wigtown bay, and consists of several 
 streets, irregularly formed, but containing well-built 
 houses ; the surrounding scenery in every direction is 
 beautifully picturesque, and enlivened with handsome 
 mansions and pleasing villas. A cotton-factory, a tan- 
 nery, and a mill for making patent-shot, were for some 
 years in active operation, but they have been long dis- 
 continued ; the manufacture of carpets, affording employ- 
 ment to about thirty persons, is carried on in the build- 
 ings of the old cotton-factory, and the shot-mill has been 
 lately adapted to the purpose of a cast-iron foundry. 
 The trade of the port is mainly in the shipping of granite 
 for Liverpool, in which several schooners are employed ; 
 there is a small coasting-trade, chiefly with Whitehaven, 
 and foreign vessels occasionally land cargoes of timber 
 and tar. A few fishing-wherries belong to the port. 
 There is no harbour, and the vessels are moored upon 
 the beach. Crcetown was erected into a burgh of barony 
 by charter granted to its proprietor, John Mc Cullocb, 
 243 
 
 Esq., of Barholm, in 1791, and is governed by a bailie 
 and four councillors, elected triennially by the tenants. 
 A town-hall with a small prison has been lately built. 
 There is a post-office, and every facility of communica- 
 tion is afforded by good roads, and by the ferry across 
 the Cree to Wigtown. 
 
 CREICH, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county 
 of Fife, 5 miles (N. W. by N.) from Cupar ; containing, 
 with the villages of Brunton and Luthrie, 430 inhabitants. 
 This place is supposed to have derived its name, signify- 
 ing in the Gaelic language rocky or rugged ground, from 
 the general appearance of its surface. It was at an early 
 period the property of the Bethune family, who had a 
 baronial castle here, of which there are still some incon- 
 siderable remains. The parish is about three miles in 
 length from north to south, varies from one mile to 
 nearly two miles in breadth, and comprises about 2324 
 acres, of which 1S03 are arable, 204 woodland and plan- 
 tations, and the remainder pasture and waste. Its sur- 
 face is greatly broken by numerous hills, forming part of 
 the Ochil range, but few of which have an elevation of 
 more than ,'J50 feet above the sea : the acclivities of some 
 of these hills are cultivated from the base to the summit ; 
 others are covered with heath, and partly with thriving 
 plantations. Several small streams rise in various parts, 
 and uniting near the village of Luthrie, form the river 
 Motray, which after flowing through this and other 
 parishes falls into the Eden. The surrounding scenery 
 is beautifully varied, and from the hills are fine views of 
 the river Tay, the Carse of Gowrie, the Sidlaw hills and 
 the Grampian mountains, the town of Dundee, and the 
 distant heights of Ben-Ledi and Ben-Lawers. 
 
 The SOIL, which has been much improved by draining, 
 is mostly fertile ; the best system of husbandry has been 
 long in use, and the lands are generally under excellent 
 cultivation. The crops are wheat, barley, oats, peas, 
 potatoes, and turnips. Of the live-stock, the cattle are 
 chiefly of the old Fifeshire breed, with a few of the Tees- 
 water upon one of the farms ; they are usually fattened 
 when three years old, and sent to market. The sheep, 
 which are of various breeds, are bought in when young, 
 in August, and sold when fat, in the June following. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £3323. 
 The substrata are principally amygdaloid, resting on 
 claystone, felspar, and greenstone : basaltic clinkstone is 
 found in the northern extremity of the parish, and ex- 
 tensively quarried for building purposes, and for the 
 roads ; there is also a quarry of sandstone in operation. 
 The plantations are chiefly larch, Scotch, and spruce firs, 
 interspersed with various hard-woods ; and on the de- 
 mesne of Luthrie are some fine elms, planes, and horse- 
 chesnuts of stately growth. Luthrie House is a hand- 
 some mansion, situated in a well-planted demesne. A con- 
 siderable number of the inhabitants are employed in the 
 hand-loom weaving of Osnaburghs, sheetings, and dow- 
 las, for the manufacturers of Cupar, who have two agents 
 here. Facility of communication is afforded by the road 
 from Cupar to Perth, and by a turnpike-road between 
 the ferries of Pettycur and Newport. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Cupar and synod of Fife. The minister's 
 stipend is £227. 14., with a manse, and a glebe valued at 
 £8 per annum ; patrons, the family of Grant. Creich 
 church, erected in 1S32, is a handsome structure con- 
 taining 252 sittings ; it has a marble monument to Mrs. 
 
 2 12
 
 C R IC 
 
 C R I E 
 
 Baillie, widow of the late Col. Baillie, of Luthrie. The 
 communion-plate was purchased with the proceeds of a 
 bequest left by Mr. George Davidson, parochial school- 
 master, who died iu 17-i5. There is a place of worship 
 for members of the Free Church. The parochial school 
 is attended by about seventy children : the master has a 
 salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees 
 average about £18; he also receives the yearly interest 
 of ^000 merks Scots. Some Druidical remains, consist- 
 ing of portions of concentric circles, have been discovered 
 on one of the hills in the parish ; and on the hill called 
 the Greencraig were found the remains of what is sup- 
 posed to have been a Danish camp. Two sepulchral urns 
 and two stone coffins w-ere found in the vicinity of Par- 
 broath, containing human bones ; and near the remains 
 of the ancient house of Parbroath was formerly a chapel, 
 not far from the site of which several graves were dis- 
 covered, while digging for the foundation of a wall, a 
 few years since. 
 
 CRICHIE, Aberdeen. — See Stuartfield. 
 
 CRICHTON, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh; 
 including the village of Pathhead, and part of Faladam, 
 and containing 13.S4 inhabitants, of whom 122 are in 
 the village of Crichton, 2 miles (S.) from Ford. This 
 place is of considerable antiquity, and was known to the 
 Romans. Upon the property of Longfaugh are the 
 remains of a Roman camp, the lines and iutrenchments 
 of which are well defined ; and there is no doubt as to 
 the ancient occupation of the place by armies, of the 
 particulars of whose operations in these parts we have 
 no information. Crichton was anciently remarkable 
 for its church, which was made collegiate in 1449 by 
 Sir William Crichton, chancellor of Scotland, with the 
 consent of James, his son ; and a provost, eight pre- 
 bendaries, and two singing boys were supported out of 
 the rents of Crichton and Locherworth. It was a men- 
 sal church, belonging to the archbishop of St. Andrew's ; 
 but the bishop had the patronage of the prebends of 
 Vogrie, Arniston, Middleton, and Locherworth. After 
 the Reformation, Sir Gideon Murray, the last provost, 
 obtained a license to convert the church lands of Crich- 
 ton, with the tithes formerly belonging to the rectory, 
 into a temporal estate. He was treasurer- depute to 
 James YI., and died in 1621, leaving the estate to his 
 son Patrick, who in 1643 was created Lord Elibank : 
 the lands are now possessed bv William Burn Callender, 
 Esq. 
 
 The celebrated castle of Crichton, which is supposed 
 to have been partly erected in the fourteenth century, 
 was formerly the residence of Chancellor Crichton al- 
 ready mentioned, joint guardian with the Earl of Callen- 
 der of James IL during his minority, and the promoter 
 of the vigorous measures against the powerful Douglas. 
 While Crichton held the castle, it was besieged and 
 partly demolished by William, Earl of Douglas, after a 
 resistance of nine months ; but it was restored with 
 great splendour, and received additions at various times, 
 until it at length assumed the appearance of one of the 
 most magnificent structures of this kind in the country. 
 Though now in ruins, it is a sohd massive building, of 
 extremely venerable and imposing appearance. The 
 oldest part of the castle is a narrow keep or tower ; but 
 so many additions were made subsequently to the erec- 
 tion of this part that there is now a large court-yard, 
 surrounded by buildings of difiFerent ages. The eastern 
 244 
 
 front of the court is raised above a portico, and decorated 
 with entablatures bearing anchors. The stones of this 
 front are cut into diamond facets, of rich appearance ; 
 and within this portion of the edifice, there appears to 
 have been a gallery of unusual size and elegance. 
 
 The PARISH, which is situated in the eastern part of 
 the county, is about five miles and a half long, and four 
 and a half broad, containing an area of about 4900 acres. 
 Its surface consists of a continued succession of undu- 
 lations and hollows throughout ; a considerable part, in 
 the higher grounds, is covered with wood, and about 
 560 acres are moorland and outfield. The river Tyne 
 rises in the upper district of the parish, and after run- 
 ning towards the north for two or three miles, makes 
 a bend to the east, passes through the county of Had- 
 dington, and falls into the sea near Dunbar. The 
 soil in the lower grounds is mostly a deep rich mould, 
 producing heavy crops ; in some other places it is dry 
 and sharp, well adapted to the growth of turnips, which 
 are cultivated to a considerable extent. On the high 
 lands it consists of thin moss resting upon a wet sand 
 or clay, unsuited to husbandry, but congenial to the 
 growth of trees, some of which thrive very well. About 
 4160 acres of land are in tillage, and all kinds of grain 
 of good quality are produced, as well as potatoes, 
 turnips, and hay. Several hundreds of acres, before 
 considered intractable, have been brought into profitable 
 cultivation within the present century, and improve- 
 ments in this branch of husbandry are still in progress. 
 The annual value of real property is £5610. 
 
 The rocks consist chiefly of limestone of a superior 
 description, large quantities of which have been for 
 many years sent to Edinburgh for the purposes of build- 
 ing ; much of it is also sent southward, for agricultural 
 use. Coal is found in different parts of the parish, in 
 thin seams, but no pits have been opened. The great 
 road to the south, by Lauder, passes through Pathhead, 
 where a splendid bridge has been erected over the Tyne, 
 consisting of five arches, each eighty feet high by fifty 
 feet span. The Edinburgh and Haw'ick railway skirts 
 the south-western boundary of the parish ; it there 
 crosses the river Tyne by a great viaduct with corre- 
 sponding embankments, and has a station called the 
 Tyne-head station. Ecclesiastically the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Dalkeith and synod of 
 Lothian and Tvieeddale ; patron, Mr. Callender : the 
 minister's stipend is £264, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £15 per aimum. The parish church, which 
 is a fine ancient structure in the form of a cross, was 
 the collegiate church ; it was thoroughly repaired about 
 thirty years ago, and will accommodate 600 persons. 
 At Pathhead is a place of worship for dissenters. There 
 is a parochial school, in which the usual branches of 
 education are taught ; the master has a salary of £34, 
 with a house, and £26 fees. A good circulating library 
 is supported at Pathhead, and the parish has two friendly 
 societies. 
 
 CRIECH, a parish, in the county of Sutherland, 
 11| miles (W. N. W.) from Tain; containing, with the 
 village of Bonar, 25S2 inhabitants. This place is famed 
 for a contest which happened in the eleventh or twelfth 
 century between the Scots and the Danes, at Druimleah, 
 near Bonar-Bridge, whence the invaders, after being 
 completely routed, retired to their ships at Portna- 
 coulter, at present called the Meikle Ferry. It is an ex- 

 
 CRIE 
 
 CRIE 
 
 tensive parish, in length about forty miles, and six miles 
 in- average breadth, and contains about 150,000 acres. 
 The general appearance of the surface is hilly, approxi- 
 mating in many parts to the character of a mountainous 
 district, and a small proportion only of its area is under 
 cultivation, the rest being covered with natural wood 
 and heath. At Ledmore is a fine oak-wood of about 
 150 acres ; and in several other parts is a considerable 
 quantity of natural wood, as well as of plantations. A 
 large extent of ground on the estates of Skibo and Pul- 
 rossie was planted with fir and larch about forty or fifty 
 years ago, to which about 1500 acres have been added 
 by the present proprietor, with an intermixture of oak 
 and other forest-trees. Other plantations have been 
 made within the last few years, and the extent of the 
 whole of them throughout the parish is now calculated 
 at 2500 acres. The rivers are, the Shin, the Oykell, a 
 considerable stream, and the Cassley : the two last join 
 at the southern extremity, and form the Firth of Dor- 
 noch ; they all contain salmon, which are regularly 
 taken, and sturgeons are also sometimes seen in the 
 Shin. There are likewise several lakes, the most consi- 
 derable of which are Migdol, Gour, and Elst, all abound- 
 ing with small good-flavoured trout. 
 
 The prevailing soil is the gravelly peaty kind usual 
 in mountainous districts. At I'ulrossie, Flode, Rosehall, 
 and some other places near the Firth, there is an ad- 
 mixture of clay, and the hills in the vicinity of Rosehall 
 form a fine natural pasture, and are covered with sheep. 
 The largest corn-farm produces a rent of about £300 
 per annum, and there are half a dozen others returning 
 from £50 to £'200 : the only sheep-farms are at Auch- 
 induich and Inverchasly, and the breed on each is the 
 Cheviot. Great improvements have been made within 
 these few years, particularly on the two estates just 
 named, consisting chiefly in the reclaiming of waste 
 lauds, in draining, and irrigation. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £4811. There are two 
 quarries of whinstone, but both very hard to work ; and 
 at Rosehall is a vein about five inches wide of fine- 
 grained, solid, bluish-grey manganese, perfect and free 
 from iron, but which, though valuable for its quality, 
 is of too inconsiderable extent to repay the expense of 
 ■working. A village and a cotton-manufactory were esta- 
 blished at Spinningdale by Mr. Dempster, of Dunnichen, 
 in the latter part of the last century ; but the factory 
 being destroyed by fire in 1809, the village has since 
 fallen to decay. The neighbouring village of Bonar has, 
 however, increased in extent and importance, especially 
 since the erection of the great iron-bridge in 1812, and 
 vessels of from thirty to sixty tons' burthen now trade 
 to it, importing meal, coal, and lime, and exporting fir- 
 props, wool, oak-bark, corn, and salmon. Newton is 
 also a shipping-place for articles of the same kind. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Dornoch, synod of Suther- 
 land and Caithness ; patrons, the Crown and the Duke 
 of Sutherland. The minister's stipend is £209, with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £5 per annum. Criech 
 church, a plain structure, built in 1790, is in good con- 
 dition, and accommodates 500 persons with sittings. A 
 place of worship has been erected in connexion with the 
 Free Church. There is a parochial school, for which a 
 new school-house has been built; the master has a salary 
 of £30, with some small fees. The relics of antiquity 
 245 
 
 comprise numerous tumuli, a vitrified fort on the summit 
 of the Doune or Hill of Criech, and an obelisk near the 
 church, measuring eight feet by four, erected, according 
 to tradition, in memory of a Danish chief who fell near 
 the spot. There are also various chalybeate springs in 
 the parish. 
 
 CRIEFF, a parish, in the county of Perth ; con- 
 taining 4333 inhabitants, of whom 3584 are in the town 
 of Crieff, 1/ miles (\V. by S.) from Perth, and 56 (N.W.) 
 from Edinburgh. This place, whose name, of Gaelic 
 origin, is derived from its situation on the side of a hill, 
 appears from various old documents to have been the spot 
 where, at a very remote period, the thane of the district 
 usually held his court in the open air, and dispensed 
 justice to the inhabitants. It was from an early date 
 regarded as the chief town of Strathearn, and was the 
 seat of an earldom until the heiress of Malise the last 
 earl, marrying the English Earl de Warren, was led into 
 rebellion against Robert I., in 1320. It continued, how- 
 ever, to be the capital of that district, and was the seat 
 of the jurisdiction of the king's steward of Strathearn, 
 which office became hereditary in the family of Drum- 
 mond, with whom it remained till the abolition of here- 
 ditary jurisdictions in 1*48. About half a mile to the 
 east of the town, is a spot till of late surrounded with a 
 low wall of earth and stone, now hardly to be traced : 
 here the courts were held ; and a little to the west of the 
 town is a rising ground where criminals were executed, 
 and which still retains the appellation of Gallow Hill. 
 The town was occupied by the army of Montrose during 
 some of the disturbances of the great civil war ; it was 
 burnt by the Highlanders for its loyalty in 1715, and 
 in the rebellion of 1745 was saved from destruction 
 only by the interposition of the Duke of Perth. On 
 the 10th of September, 1842, the town was visited by 
 Her Majesty, in the course of her tour in Scotland ; she 
 was rapturously received by the inhabitants of the place, 
 by whom a triumphal arch had been erected at the en- 
 trance of the town, and the Queen passed on to Drum- 
 mond Castle, in the vicinity. The town was illumi- 
 nated the first night the Queen was at the castle. 
 
 Crieff is beautifully situated on the sloping accli- 
 vity of an eminence near the base of the Grampian hills, 
 commanding an extensive and richly-varied prospect of 
 the country towards the south, which is in a state of 
 high cultivation, and thickly studded with the resi- 
 dences of the gentry. It consists of one principal or 
 high street, in the centre of which is St. James's square, 
 a handsome range of building ; and of several other 
 well-built streets, one of which leads to a bridge over the 
 river Earn, affording a communication with the parish 
 of Muthill. The inhabitants are amply supplied with 
 excellent water from springs in the immediate vicinity, 
 from which it is conveyed into a reservoir in the 
 centre of St. James's square, where a handsome budding 
 of stone has been erected, which, surrounded with some 
 lime-trees of great beauty, forms an interesting and pic- 
 turesque ornament in the town. There is a gas com- 
 pany. Nearly in the centre of the high street is the 
 ancient cross, of rude workmanship, consisting of a 
 block of stone raised on a plinth of hewn stone : it is 
 about six feet three inches high, about two feet in 
 breadth, and little more than six inches in thickness ; 
 the front is embeUished with a cross, carved in relief, 
 and there are traces of a legend, the characters of which
 
 CRIE 
 
 CRIE 
 
 are so obliterated by time as to be altogether illegible. 
 A subscription library has been established, and is well 
 supported ; the number of volumes at present is above 
 1000, and it is supposed that the number will soon be 
 greatly extended. A circulating library is kept; and two 
 reading-rooms are supported by subscription. Assem- 
 blies are held in the ball-room of the chief inn, and also 
 in the large rooms of St. Michael's Lodge and the 
 Weavers' Hall. 
 
 The principal trade carried on is the weaving of 
 cotton for the manufacturers of Glasgow, in which 
 nearly 500 persons are employed at their own homes, 
 in producing checks and handkerchiefs. The quantity 
 of yarn annually sent to this place from Glasgow is 
 valued at £15,000; the average value of the goods 
 when manufactured is about £'20,000. About 400 
 looms are engaged regularly at this work, which 
 forms the staple manufacture of the town. The manu- 
 facture of wooUen-stutfs is also carried on to a mode- 
 rate extent, in a factory lately erected on the banks 
 of the river Turret, and affords employment to about 
 forty persons : the articles are, blankets, plaiding, 
 shawls, and various coloured stuffs ; and all the pro- 
 cesses are performed with machinery propelled by 
 water, of which the river affords an abundant supply. 
 Several other persons are occupied in the manufacture 
 of linen-cloth, chiefly for home consumption, and a 
 considerable number of females in tambour-work, and 
 in working figured-muslins. There are three tanneries, 
 employing a considerable number of hands, and pro- 
 ducing a very large quantity of leather; likewise two 
 distilleries, which produce about 73,000 gallons of 
 whisky annually, and pay duties to the excise of more 
 than £"000. Five malting establishments are also 
 conducted, yielding in the aggregate nearly 7000 quar- 
 ters of malt, and paying a duty of £54'20 per annum. 
 An oil-mill has been established, which is in constant 
 operation ; and there are corn, flour, and barley mills, 
 all belonging to one proprietor, who disposes of the 
 produce at the Glasgow and Dundee markets. The 
 trade is principally with Glasgow, but certain portions 
 of it are carried on vvith Edinburgh, Perth, Stirling, 
 Dundee, and several towns in England. Great facility 
 of communication with the neighbouring towns is af- 
 forded by good roads which pass through the parish, 
 and of which the Tay-bridge road, traversing Glenal- 
 mond, is one of the best in the country. Mail and 
 stage coaches pass daily through the town, and an act 
 of parliament was obtained in 1846 for the construction 
 of a branch to Crieff of the Scottish Central railway. 
 The market, held on Thursday, is well attended by the 
 farmers, and abundantly supplied with provisions of all 
 kinds for the supply of the inhabitants. From its 
 central situation, the town has been made the seat of 
 numerous fairs previously held in the neighbouring 
 parishes; and nine fairs, for which a commodious situ- 
 ation has been provided by Lady Willoughby de Eresby, 
 are now regularly held. They are on the first Thursday 
 in January, the third in February, the second in March, 
 the first in April, the first and last in June, the second 
 in July, the third in August, and that preceding the 
 October Falkirk tryst. There are three branch banks. 
 
 The GOVERNMENT of the town, which is a burgh of 
 barony, is vested in three baron-bailies and a com- 
 mittee, appointed by the three proprietors of the lands 
 24(1 
 
 on which the town is built, of whom Lady Willoughby 
 de Eresby is the chief. The common funds, amounting 
 to about £100 per annum, are appropriated by the com- 
 mittee in watching and lighting the streets, and supply- 
 ing the inhabitants with water. A court is held quar- 
 terly by the sheriff of the county for the recovery of 
 small debts and the determination of minor offences. 
 There is neither a regular magistracy nor police, and the 
 whole management is vested in the committee of the in- 
 habitants. The Masons' Hall, or St. Michael's Lodge, 
 was built in 1S16, at an expense of £2000, under the 
 direction of a committee of the society; it is a hand- 
 some edifice, containing a good assembly-room, and the 
 requisite offices. The Weavers' Hall, a neat building 
 also containing an assembly-room, was erected by that 
 company in 1786. The old Tolbooth was built in 1665, 
 for the accommodation of the officers of the steward's 
 court, after the proceedings ceased to be conducted in 
 the open air. It contained a prison in the lower part, 
 in which offenders were temporarily confined ; a court- 
 room where the small-debt and other courts were held ; 
 and above, a room for the use of the public library. 
 The building has been demolished by the County Prisoa 
 Board, and a larger edifice occupies its site. 
 
 The PARISH is separated into two divisions by the 
 intervening lands of the parish of Monzie. The High- 
 land division comprises the larger portion of the dis- 
 trict of Glenalmond, through which the river Almond 
 has its course, and abounds with every variety of moun- 
 tain scenery, in its wildest and most romantic features. 
 The Lowland division, which may properly be regarded 
 as the parish, is about four miles in length, and three 
 in breadth, and comprises 3800 acres ; it is bounded on 
 the north-west by the river Shaggy, on the east by the 
 Pow, on the south by the Earn, and on the west by the 
 Turret. The surface is generally level, being broken 
 only by the Knock of Crieff and Callum's Hill, the 
 former of which has an elevation of 400 feet above the 
 sea. These eminences are both richly wooded, and add 
 greatly to the diversity and the beauty of the scenery. 
 The Earn, which issues from the lake of that name, 
 forms the boundary of the parish for nearly three miles, 
 and at Critff receives the waters of the Turret. It is 
 crossed by a good stone bridge of four arches, one of 
 which was broken down by the Highlanders in 1715 to 
 arrest the pursuit of the royalist forces, and has been 
 replaced by one that does not harmonize with the others. 
 The rivers generally abound with trout, and the Earn 
 with salmon, eels, perch, and pike, which are taken in 
 great numbers, and are of superior quality. 
 
 The SOIL in the north, west, and south is light and 
 sandy, intermixed with gravel ; nearer the town, a rich 
 loam ; and in the east and south-east portions, a stiff 
 reddish clay. Of the 3800 acres in the parish quoad 
 sacra, all, with the exception of about 600 in plantations, 
 are under cultivation ; the system of agriculture is in 
 a highly improved state, and draining has been exten- 
 sively practised in the most efficient manner. The chief 
 crops are oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips, of which 
 great quantities are grown, of excellent quality ; wheat 
 is also raised, but to a very limited extent, the soil not 
 being so well adapted for it. Cattle are grazed here for 
 the supply of the south-country markets, and for home 
 consumption ; and about 1500 are annually fed by the 
 various distillers in the neighbourhood. Few sheep are 
 
 (
 
 CR I E 
 
 CRIM 
 
 pastured, except for the use of the parish. The woods, 
 occupying little more than ten acres, consist of oak (of 
 three kinds, the common, the scarlet, and the Turkey), 
 ash, elm, beech, sycamore, chesnut, plane, walnut, and 
 poplar ; and the plantations, to which considerable 
 attention is paid, are chiefly larch, spruce, Scotch, and 
 silver firs. There are not many trees remarkable for 
 their growth : at Inchbrakie is an ancient yew of extra- 
 ordinary size, in which the Marquess of Montrose is 
 said to have concealed himself. The substrata of the 
 hills are mostly mica and clay slate, with quartz, horn- 
 blende-slate, and some portions of granite ; the lower 
 lands are partly sandstone of a reddish hue, alternated 
 in some places with trap-dikes of limited extent, and 
 partly greenstone, which is wrought for the roads. 
 Quarries of freestone are worked in several parts, the 
 stone possessing great durability, and being susceptible 
 of a high polish ; but the veins have not yet been 
 wrought to a sufficient depth to produce the best speci- 
 mens. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £7600. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Auehterarder and synod 
 of Perth and Stirling; patron. Lady Willoughby de 
 Eresby. The stipend of the incumbent is £182. 14., 
 with a manse, built in 1701, and a glebe valued at £10 
 per annum. Crieff church, built in 1/86, and thoroughly 
 repaired in 1827, affords accommodation for 966 per- 
 sons. An additional church was erected in 1837, at an 
 expense of £1533, and for a time had a quoad sacra 
 parish annexed to it, containing 2177 inhabitants, and 
 called West Church : the minister is appointed by the 
 subscribers and heads of families, communicants. There 
 are places of worship for members of the Free Church, 
 the United Presbyterian Synod, Episcopalians, and Ro- 
 man Catholics. The parochial school affords a useful 
 education ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house 
 and garden. There are some friendly societies, of which 
 the Masons', instituted by the Duke of Perth in 1737, 
 and the Weavers', instituted in 1770, are the chief. 
 
 On taking down the old parish church, which was 
 a very ancient building, about forty gold coins of the 
 reign of Robert I. were found in a niche in one of the 
 walls ; on the obverse was a head of the king, with 
 the legend Rohertus Rex Scotontm, and on the reverse, 
 a figure of St. Andrew with his cross. There are some 
 traces of a Roman road, which is supposed to have con- 
 nected the camp at Stragcath with that at Dalginross, 
 passing through the lands of Broich ; and in forming 
 the present road through Burrel-street, a Roman pave- 
 ment was discovered, in tolerable preservation, and at a 
 considerable depth below the surface. Near the field 
 where the stewards of Strathearn were accustomed to 
 hold their courts, is a large upright stone with a sharp 
 summit, the history of which is not clearly ascertained. 
 From the well-known fact that many Druidical remains 
 existed in the neighbourhood, it is supposed to have 
 been one belonging to a circle, of which the others may 
 have been removed at various times, and applied to 
 agricultural uses. According to, another account, it 
 seems to answer the description of the blot stein, stone 
 of sacrifice, or stone of fear, on which human victims 
 were offered, previously to the introduction of Chris- 
 tianity into the northern countries. Here, it is thought, 
 victims were immolated toThor, the Scandinavian deity ; 
 247 
 
 around were circular ranges of stone, dug deep in the 
 ground, but now almost covered by the soil, and within 
 these ranges sat the judges, with the accused, their ad- 
 vocates, and the witnesses, convened in solemn trial, 
 and the people assembled beyond the ranges. On the 
 summit of the stone were broken the backs of the vic- 
 tims offered as expiatory sacrifices to appease the wrath 
 of the offended deity, and to purge the community from 
 the guilt rendering them obnoxious to that wrath. This 
 spot was the scene of a sanguinary conflict in 1413 be- 
 tween Graeme, Earl of Strathearn, and Drummond of 
 Concraig, steward of that district, in which the former 
 was slain. It was also chosen by Sir John Cope for his 
 head-quarters, in the rebellion of 174.') ; and there is 
 still a fine spring called " Cope's well," near which an 
 old sword was lately found. Some slight remains exist 
 of the ancient house of Inchbrakie, the strongly-fortified 
 residence of Patrick Graeme, colonel of the Posse Comi- 
 tatus of the county of Perth, and cousin of the celebrated 
 Marquess of Montrose, in whose cause he took a deci- 
 sive part. He is said to have defeated the Duke of 
 Argyll, and to have taken Aberdeen, in retaliation for 
 which his house at Inchbrakie was burnt by Cromwell. 
 A short time since, some workmen employed in the 
 moat found, embedded in the castle, one of the cannon- 
 balls that had been fired at the house by the besiegers. 
 
 Mallet, the poet, and Dow, the historian of Hindostan, 
 are said to have received their early education in the 
 school of this parish ; and Dr. William Wright, a phy- 
 sician and natural philosopher of eminence, and Dr. 
 Thomas Thomson, the distinguished professor of che- 
 mistry in the university of Glasgow, were born in the 
 place. Sir David Baird, Bart., passed the later years of 
 his life at Ferntower, in the parish ; and the sword of 
 Tippoo Saib, presented to the general after the storming 
 of Seringapatam, is still preserved there. A marble 
 tablet on the wall of the parish church records his de- 
 cease, and the deep sympathy which it excited in the 
 minds of the people of Crieff, by whom his memory is 
 held in veneration. 
 
 CRIMOND, a parish, in the district of Deer, county 
 of Aberdeen, 9 miles (N. N. W.) from Peterhead ; con- 
 taining 767 inhabitants. This place once contained a 
 castle belonging to the celebrated Cumyn, Earl of Bu- 
 chan ; it stood on a small hill called Castlehill, and was 
 suffered to fall into ruins after his fatal defeat at the 
 battle of Inverury by Robert Bruce. Near this castle, 
 the remains of which are completely covered over with 
 sand blown from the sea-shore, are the walls of a chapel 
 in good preservation, supposed to have been the private 
 family chapel; and in the immediate vicinity stood the 
 ancient town of Rattray, which in the sixteenth century 
 possessed all the privileges of a royal burgh, except that 
 of sending members to parliament. The Earl of Errol 
 was superior of the burgage lands, of which, though ori- 
 ginally extensive, there is now only one feu remaining. 
 
 The PARISH is situated in that part of the county 
 called Buchan, and on the coast of the German Ocean, 
 about midway between Peterhead and Fraserburgh. It 
 comprises nearly 6000 acres, of which 4093 are arable, 
 707 pasture, 100 plantation, and the remainder moor, 
 moss, bent, and waste. The coast measures about two 
 miles, and consists of flat beach and sand-hills, except 
 at the famous promontory of Rattray head, where it 
 runs into a ridge of low rocks, stretching into the sea.
 
 C R I M 
 
 C R O M 
 
 in an eastern direction, for a distance of between one 
 and two miles, and concealed at full tide. There were 
 formerly numerous shipwrecks ; but these have become 
 far less frequent, chiefly in consequence of a lighthouse 
 having been erected at Kinnaird's head to the north, and 
 another at Boddom, near Peterhead, on the south. The 
 surface along the shore rises to the height of nearly 200 
 feet, but slopes towards the interior, which is only slightly 
 elevated above the sea. Afterwards, however, the land 
 rises to the south and south-west boundaries, uniting 
 with the higher grounds of Lonmay and St. Fergus. 
 The loch of Strathbeg, one-tenth of which is situated in 
 Crimond, and the remainder in Lonmay parish, covers 
 several hundred acres. The water is now fresh, but it 
 formerly communicated with the sea, and was entered 
 by vessels of small burthen till the year 1*20, when a 
 strong east wind blew the sand into the channel, and 
 effectually choked up the entrance. Towards the sea 
 the banks present nothing but a succession of sand-hil- 
 locks covered with bent, and the other side is lined with 
 bogs and marshes. The loch, however, has many attrac- 
 tions to the botanist and the sportsman, from the variety 
 of the productions growing near its banks, or on the 
 margin of its tributary burns ; from its numerous wild- 
 fowl, comprehending most species usual in the country ; 
 and from its supply of different sorts of fish. The upper 
 part of the parish contains the loch of Logie, or Kinin- 
 month, which covers about twenty acres, and is sur- 
 rounded by low tracts of moss, of a dreary and barren 
 appearance. 
 
 The prevailing soil is a light loatn, incumbent on clay ; 
 near the shore the soil is sandy, and other parts contain 
 a great extent of moss. The land produces good crops 
 of all kinds of grain, potatoes, turnips, and hay ; the 
 system of farming is of a superior kind, and considerable 
 improvements have been effected by draining, although 
 much yet remains to be done in this respect. On account 
 of the facilities of communication by steamers between 
 Aberdeen and London, much attention has been given of 
 late years to the rearing and fattening of cattle for the 
 market : of the several kinds, a cross between the Tees- 
 water and Buchau is in general preferred. But few 
 sheep are kept ; and cows for the dairy, now numbering 
 between 250 and 300, have been less regarded since the 
 increase in the sale of cattle. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £3424. The rocks comprise 
 whinstone, which is abundant, and a darkish-blue gra- 
 nite of very good quality ; red granite is also found, but 
 chiefly in a decomposed state, and limestone was for- 
 merly worked near Bilbo. There is an ancient seat called 
 Haddo, and an elegant modern mansion has been built 
 on the estate of Rattray. The population of the parish 
 is mostly agricultural ; but some are engaged in fishing, 
 and besides the perch, trout, eels, and flounders taken in 
 Loch Strathbeg and its burns, the neighbouring seas 
 aflFord herrings, mackerel, skate, haddock, and other fish, 
 especially the famous cod known as the Rattray-head 
 cod. The turnpike-road from Peterhead to Fraserburgh 
 runs through the parish. Fairs are held in February, 
 September, and October, for horses, cattle, and sheep. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Deer, 
 synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of the Earl of 
 Fife 5 the minister's stipend is between £200 and £300, 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £6 per annum. 
 Crimond churth is au elegant structure, built in 1S12, 
 24S 
 
 and surmounted by a lofty spire, containing a good clock 
 and bell. The parochial school affords instruction in the 
 usual branches ; the master has a salary of £3.5, with a 
 house erected in IS 16, and from £15 to £20 fees, in ad- 
 dition to which he receives a portion of the Dick bequest, 
 and the interest of £400 left by the Rev. Mr. Johnston, 
 a former minister of the parish. There is also a parochial 
 library, containing about 400 volumes. Arthur John- 
 stone, a Latin poet of the sixteenth century, is said to 
 have been born in the parish ; and Mr. Farquhar, of 
 Fonthill, who amassed an immense fortune in India, and 
 was generally known by the name of " rich Farquhar", 
 was also a native. 
 
 CRINAMAIL, an isle, in the parish of Barra, 
 county of Inverness. It is one of the Hebrides, situated 
 in the roads of Ottervore, and is of very small extent, 
 and uninhabited. 
 
 CROCKETFORD, a village, partly in the parish of 
 Kirkpatrick-Durham, and partly in that of Urr, 
 stewartry of Kirkcudbright ; containing in the Kirk- 
 patrick-Durham portion 117, and in the Urr portion 
 122, inhabitants. A road branches off from the village 
 to New Galloway and the Glenkens. There is a small 
 school. 
 
 CROFTHEAD, a village, in the parish of Neilston, 
 Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, f of a mile 
 (W. S. W.) from Neilston ; containing 297 inhabitants. 
 This place, which is situated a little east of the road from 
 Irvine to Barrhead, owes its origin to the introduction 
 of the cotton manufacture. In 1792 an extensive spin- 
 ning and weaving mill was built, around which the vil- 
 lage has arisen. In addition to the cottages of the 
 work-people employed in the factory, and in the printing 
 and bleaching establishments connected with the cotton 
 trade, there are some neat houses inhabited by persons 
 occupied in superintending and conducting these exten- 
 sive works. 
 
 CROICH, or Croick, formerly a quoad sacra parish, 
 in the parish of Kincardine, county of Ross and Cro- 
 marty, 9 miles (W.) from Kincardine; containing 316 
 inhabitants. This place, the name of which signifies a 
 nook or corner, is situated on the Carron water, and is 
 the head of a remote pastoral district of the civil parish. 
 It was formed into a quoad sacra parish in 1S27, and is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Tain, synod of 
 Ross : the church was erected in the same year. The 
 stipend of the minister is £\20, with a manse, and a 
 glebe of the annual value of £ 10 ; the patronage is in the 
 Crown. There is a small school. 
 
 CROLIN, an island, in the parish of Applecross, 
 county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 40 inhabit- 
 ants. It is situated near the entrance into Loch Carron, 
 on the western coast, and is the most southern of a small 
 group. Crolin is about a mile in length and of nearly 
 equal breadth. There is some good pasturage. 
 
 CROMARTY, a burgh of barony, a sea-port, and 
 parish, in the county of Ross and Cromarty, 175 miles 
 (N. by W.) from Edinburgh; containing 2662 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom 1938 are in the burgh. This place, whose 
 Gaelic name, Crom Ba, signifying the crooked bay, is 
 derived from the winding shore of the Firth of Cromarty, 
 appears to have attained to some importance at an early 
 period, though few details of its ancient history are re- 
 corded. It is identified in some degree with the usurper 
 Macbeth, to whom it gave his earliest title of Thane of
 
 C R O M 
 
 C RO M 
 
 Cromarty. It also seems to have been tlie scene of various 
 disastrous battles, in commemoration of which are nume- 
 rous tumuli in liifTorent parts of the parish, raised over the 
 bodies of the slain. Tiie hill behind the town is distin- 
 guished by tradition as the site of one of the victories 
 gained by William Wallace over the Enghsh, during the 
 disputed succession to the Scottish throne in the reign 
 of Edward I. of England ; and the opinion is confirmed 
 by some artificial hillocks still discernible among the 
 trees which crown that eminence. The district appears 
 ti> have been originally inhabited by the Lowland Scots. 
 Prior to the reign of Robert II., the town, which carried 
 on a considerable trade in the exportation of wool and 
 salmon to Flanders and France, was erected into a royal 
 burgh, and united with that of Inverness. 
 
 The inhabitants were constantly subject to the pre- 
 datory incursions of the Highlanders of the surrounding 
 district ; and in the reign of James IV., a combination 
 of the Highland clans assaulted the town, and carried 
 off nearly the whole of the property, even to the house- 
 hold furniture, for the restitution of which a decree was 
 enacted by the lords of the council. Nearly the whole 
 of the lands in tlie old county of Cromarty belonged to 
 Sir John Urquhart, who was hereditary sheriff ; and on 
 his petition, the town was disfranchised as a royal burgh, 
 and erected into a burgh of barony under his own juris- 
 diction. The prosperity of the place was subject to 
 great fluctuation prior to the Reformation ; but at that 
 time it began to revive, and in the reign of Anne it had 
 regained much of its previous importance, and had five 
 vessels engaged in the herring-fishery. At the period 
 of the Union it experienced considerable depression, and 
 in 1730 had so far declined that scarcely a single shop- 
 keeper was to be found in the town. In 1/6.5, however, 
 the lands of Cromarty were purchased by George Ross, 
 Esq., who, at his own cost, added greatly to the revival 
 and prosperity of the town by the construction of a pier, 
 the introduction of an extensive manufacture of hempen- 
 cloth, the erection of a public brewery, and the establish- 
 ment of a lucrative trade in pork for the English market. 
 Among his other beneficent measures, was the erection 
 and endowment of a Gaelic chapel for the accommoda- 
 tion of Highland inhabitants. 
 
 The TOWN is pleasantly situated in the eastern part of 
 the parish, upon a low promontory between the Moray 
 Firth on the east, and the Firth of Cromarty on the 
 west. It consists of several streets of irregularly-built 
 houses, which, notwithstanding the antique appearance 
 of the more ancient, have an air of cheerful neatness. 
 The herring-fishery, which was formerly carried on to a 
 great extent, and, within the last twenty years, produced 
 annually not less than '20,000 barrels that were shipped 
 from the port, has lately been almost discontinued. The 
 manufacture of hempen-cloth introduced by Mr. Ross is, 
 however, still carried on in an extensive factory, in which 
 about 1.50 persons are employed, in addition to nearly 
 half that number in collateral branches ; the brewery is 
 a ruin. The principal trade of the port is, the exporta- 
 tion of pork for the supply of the English market, of 
 which the average quantity annually shipped is valued 
 at from £1,5,000 to £20,000; and the importation of 
 coal from Sunderland, and other produce from different 
 parts of the coast. The harbour has a commodious pier, 
 and is accessible to vessels of 400 tons, which can come 
 up to the quay ; and should the population and the trade 
 Vol. I.— 249 
 
 of the district require it, this might be made one of the 
 best harbours on the coast. 
 
 The entrance into the bay of Cromarty, from the 
 North Sea, is between two lofty and precipitous pro- 
 montories called the North and South Souters, of which 
 the former is in the county of Ross, and the latter in 
 that of Cromarty. The passage is about a mile and a 
 half in width, and the bay is about seven miles in length, 
 five miles in breadth, and from nine to twelve fathoms in 
 depth, affording secure shelter to vessels in the severest 
 gales. Towards the south-west it contracts into a firth 
 about two miles in breadth, across which is a good ferry 
 to luvergordon, where no accident has occurred within 
 the memory of man. The market, which was weekly, 
 has long been discontinued ; and of the several fairs that 
 were formerly held here only one remains, on the third 
 Tuesday in November (O. S.). The government of the 
 burgh, since the late act for municipal reform, has been 
 vested in a provost, two bailies, and six councillors ; 
 but they have no funds. Cromarty is associated with 
 Dingwall, Dornoch, Kirkwall, Tain, and Wick, in return- 
 ing a member to the imperial parliament. The number 
 of qualified \ oters is about forty. The town-hall, a neat 
 substantial building, vvas erected by Mr. Ross, and con- 
 tains in the upper story a spacious hall surmounted by 
 a dome, and on the ground-floor a prison. The internal 
 intercourse is impeded by the numerous inlets from the 
 sea with which the parish is indented ; but a road has 
 been formed to Inverness, that passes through Chanonry, 
 Rosemarkie, and Avoch, and the regular sailing-packets 
 from London, Leith, and Inverness touch at the port. 
 
 The PARISH extends from five to se\ en miles in length, 
 and from two to three in breadth, comprising about 7100 
 acres, of which 2047 are arable, 1S50 woodland and 
 plantations, and the remainder meadow, pasture, and 
 waste. Its surface is strikingly diversified. Towards 
 the Moray Firth it is precipitous and abrupt, attaining, 
 at a small distance from the shore, an elevation 470 feet 
 above the sea. On the north and west, it declines gently 
 towards the Firth of Cromarty for some distance, and 
 then subsides, more abruptly, into a continuous extent of 
 table-land overhanging the beach. In the eastern por- 
 tion of the parish is the hill of Cromarty, having an ele- 
 vation of 300 feet, and richly crowned with wood ; and 
 about two miles to the east of the town is a natural arch 
 in the cliff, affording a passage to a peninsulated rock 
 rising to the height of 100 feet from the beach. The 
 small burn of Ethie, which forms the extreme southern 
 boundary of the parish, flows for nearly two miles through 
 a deep ravine in a bed of sandstone, the banks of which 
 rise precipitously to an elevation of 250 feet. In its 
 course it forms numerous cascades of romantic character, 
 and in one part, flowing between banks crowned with 
 flowers and foliage of every hue, falls from a height of 
 thirty feet into a dark mossy basin, shaded with planta- 
 tions of hazel, birch, and hawthorn, intermixed with ivy 
 and wild honeysuckle. The soil of the arable land is 
 of a clayey quality, and in other parts are large tracts 
 of moor and moss. The system of agriculture is in an 
 improving state ; the chief crops are, wheat, which was 
 first raised about forty or fifty years since, and the various 
 other kinds of grain. The substrata are mostly sand- 
 stone and granitic gneiss. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £3847. Cromarty House, a 
 handsome modern mansion, beautifully situated in a 
 
 2 K
 
 CROM 
 
 CRO M 
 
 richly-planted demesne, and Udale, are the principal 
 residences. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Chanonry and synod of Ross. 
 The minister's stipend is £251. 12., with an allowance in 
 money in lieu of a manse, and the glebe is valued at £15 
 per annum : patron, the Crown. Cromarty church is a 
 plain structure in very bad repair. The Gaelic chapel 
 erected in 1*83 by Mr. Ross, for the accommodation of 
 the Highlanders employed in his factory, has an endow- 
 ment of £150 per annum from government, for the sup- 
 port of its minister. To this chapel, containing 580 
 sittings, of which 300 are free, Gaelic people may come 
 from all parts of the parish. There is also a place of 
 worship for members of the Free Church. The parochial 
 school is well conducted ; the master has a salary of 
 £40, with a sum for house and garden, and the fees 
 average £10. The poor have bequests producing £"5 per 
 annum. There are some very slight remains of ancient 
 ( hapels, the most perfect being those of St. Regulus ; 
 and among the ruins of the chapels of St. Duthac and 
 St. Bennet, are two springs of excellent water. Of the 
 distinguished persons connected with the place, may be 
 named, the eccentric Sir Thomas Urquhart, celebrated for 
 his Genealogy and Universal Language, and the late Dr. 
 James Robertson, librarian of the university of Edin- 
 burgh, and professor of the Oriental languages ; who were 
 both natives. The town formerly gave the title of earl 
 to the Mackenzie family ; but George, the third earl, 
 was attainted for his participation in the rebellion of 
 1745, and the title became e.xtinct. 
 
 CROMARTY, County of.— See Ross and Cro- 
 marty. 
 
 CROMBIE-POINT, a village, in the parish of Torry- 
 BURN, district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 3 miles 
 (E.) from Torryburn ; containing 54 inhabitants. This 
 village, which is situated on the north shore of the 
 Firth of Forth, was formerly a place of considerable 
 trade It was, indeed, the principal depot for the 
 transit of the manufactures of Dunfermline, which 
 were shipped hence to Borrowstounness, at that time 
 the chief port on the Firth. The harbour, which is dry 
 at low water, is inclosed by a pier of stone, now in 
 great want of repair. A very considerable portion of 
 the coal found in the neighbourhood, and of agricul- 
 tural produce, is still shipped from this place; and the 
 Edinburgh and Stirling steamers still land, and take in, 
 passengers and goods at the pier. 
 
 CROiNIDALE, a parish, partly in the county of 
 Elgin, but chiefly in that of Inverness, 18 miles (S. \V.) 
 from Rothes ; containing, with the village of Grantown, 
 3561 inhabitants. It is supposed to have derived its 
 name from the Gaelic words croni, signifying crooked or 
 curved, and dail, a plain or meadow, a portion of land 
 being made semicircular by the winding course of the 
 river Spey. This district, consisting of the three ancient 
 parishes of Cromdale, Inverallan, and Advie, has from 
 an early period been possessed by the Grant family, who 
 were very powerful in Scotland in the thirteenth century, 
 and the first of whom mentioned in old records was 
 Gregory de Grant, sheritf-principal of Inverness, Ross, 
 Sutherland, and Caithness, in the reign of Alexander 
 II. Among the many sanguinary conflicts in the neigh- 
 bourhood, a battle fought on the haughs of Cromdale, 
 on the 1st May, I69O, is the most celebrated. It took 
 250 
 
 place between General Buchan, with a large party from 
 different clans, on the side of the Stuarts, and Sir 
 Thomas Livingstone, who commanded the royalists ; and 
 the Highlanders, after fighting bravely, were routed 
 with considerable slaughter. The castle of Lochindorb, 
 situated in the parish, on an island in a loch of the same 
 name, afforded a retreat for the lady of the Earlof Athol, 
 when the latter had been killed in an engagement with 
 the Earl of March, in 1335, at Kilblair : Sir Alexander 
 Gordon shortly laid siege to the fort, but was obliged to 
 withdraw in the following year. 
 
 The PARISH is very irregular in its outline. It is 
 about twenty miles in length, and ten miles at its 
 greatest breadth, comprising, according to a survey 
 made in 1810, an area of 54,744 acres, of which 5306 
 were arable, 3283 in wood, 396 in lakes, and the re- 
 mainder hill, moor, and moss. The lands are separated 
 into two distinct portions by the Spey. Those on the 
 northern side are much varied by slopes, stretching 
 down to the river, and covered with thick forests of 
 pine, oak, and larch ; on the south the most prominent 
 feature is Cromdale hill, a lofty mountain ridge about 
 seven miles long, covered with heath, extending to the 
 east and west, and separating this parish from that of 
 Kirkmichael. Most of the high grounds abound with 
 grouse and different kinds of game, and with brown and 
 white hares ; and ptarmigan have been shot in some 
 places : the Spey is well stocked with salmon. The soil 
 is in general favourable ; but the vicissitudes of the 
 climate, the site of the parish being 600 feet above the 
 level of the sea, often expose promising crops to ruin 
 from cold and frost. Agriculture is, however, on a very 
 respectable footing ; the rotation of crops and other 
 approved usages of modern farming are followed, and 
 lime is prepared on almost every allotment of land, how- 
 ever small. The sheep are mostly the black-faced, with 
 a few Cheviots ; and the black-cattle, which are very 
 superior, are of the West Highland breed. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £5849. Primitive 
 limestone of excellent quality is abundant, and is exten- 
 sively wrought by nearly all the tenants : granite of a 
 superior kind is also found, with various other rocks of 
 the primitive class. 
 
 The parish is famous for its large and flourishing 
 plantations, which are said to exceed those of any other 
 parish in this part of the country : above 5000 acres are 
 covered with larch, fir, and various other trees, half of 
 which have been planted within the last thirty or forty 
 years. Many trees among the older plantations are of 
 great bulk and value, especially in the vicinity of Castle- 
 Grant, whence very large cargoes have been and con- 
 tinue to be taken to Garmouth. The natural wood 
 comprises a considerable extent of oak, birch, and alder ; 
 and in the churchyard is a magnificent beech-tree, the 
 branches of which are capable of overshadowing more 
 than 1000 persons. The mansion of Castle- Grant is 
 situated on an eminence on the northern side of the 
 Spey, about two miles from the river, and is encom- 
 passed with forests of ancient and noble trees. This 
 splendid edifice, the seat of the Grant family from 
 remote ages, is now the property of the Earl of Seafield, 
 sole proprietor of the parish, who is directly descended 
 from the family of Grant, and chief of that clan. The 
 house was built in the fourteenth century, but has since 
 been frequently altered and improved, especially within
 
 C RO S 
 
 C ROS 
 
 the last few years. It consists of a quadrangular pile of 
 several stories, with lower wings ; and the apartments, 
 which are spacious and handsomely furnished, contain 
 many valuable paintings by the ancient masters, and one 
 by Hamilton, of superior merit, representing the Death 
 of Patroclus. In the front hall are placed between thirty 
 and forty portraits of different members of the Grant 
 family ; and there is also an extensive armoury. Eccle- 
 siastically the parish is in the presbytery of Abernethy, 
 synod of Moray, and in the patronage of the Earl of 
 Seafield ; the minister's stipend is about £250, with a 
 manse, and two glebes, one at Cromdale, and the other at 
 Advie, valued at £2'i per annum. The church, situated 
 on the southern bank of the Spey, was built in 1809, 
 and will accommodate about 900 persons. There are four 
 parochial schools affording the usual instruction ; the 
 masters receive each £12. 16. per annum, with fees, and 
 the master of the school at Advie also shares in the Dick 
 bequest. The chief relics of antiquity are, the ruin of 
 the castle of Lochindorb, already mentioned ; and that 
 of Muckerach Castle, built by Patrick Grant, about the 
 year 159S. Sir James M'Grigor, Bart., the head of the 
 medical department of the army, was born here in 177 1. 
 — See Grantown. 
 
 CROMWELL-PARK, a village, in the parish of 
 Redgorton, county of Perth ; containing 124 inha- 
 bitants. It is situated on the Almond river, and is the 
 seat of e.\tensive cotton-works and a bleachfield, which 
 employ the greater part of the population. The Almond 
 turns several spinning-mills near this place, and has 
 some fine waterfalls at short distances from the village. 
 
 CRONAY, an isle, in the parish of Assynt, county 
 of Sutherland. This is a small flat islet with a 
 shallow shore, lying in Oldernay bay, on the western 
 coast of the county, and a short distance westward of 
 Oldernay island. 
 
 CROOK, a hamlet, in the parish of Alves, county 
 of Elgin ; containing 73 inhabitants. 
 
 CROOK OF DEVON, a village, in the parish of 
 FossowAY and Tulliebole, county of Kinross, .5 miles 
 (W. N. W.) from Kinross; containing 61 inhabitants. 
 It is situated in the western part of the parish, and at 
 an angle of the Crook-water, which here turns suddenly. 
 The vicinity is very romantic : the Devil's Mill is about 
 a mile and a half, the Rumbling Brig two miles, and the 
 Cauldron Linn three miles, below the village. 
 
 CROSS and BURNESS, a parish, in the island of 
 Sanda, county of Orkney ; containing, exclusively of 
 the isle and parliamentary parish of North Ronaldshay 
 {which sec), 983 inhabitants, of whom .51.5 are in Cross, 
 and 468 in Burness. These two ancient parishes, now 
 united, include about one-half of the island in which 
 they are situated ; the former occupying the south-west, 
 and the latter the north-west, jiortiou, together about 
 nine miles and a half in length, and from half a mile to 
 three miles in breadth. They are bounded on the north 
 by the Firth of North Ronaldshay, which is about seven 
 miles broad, and on the west by the Atlantic Ocean. 
 Cross comprises about 4600 acres, of which one-fonrth 
 is moorland, and nearly an equal quantity sandy downs. 
 Its surface is diversified with hills, rising in some parts 
 to an elevation of more than 300 feet above the sea. 
 One of these, called the Brae of Fea, terminates on the 
 west in an abrupt precipice, washed by the sea, and 
 fretted by the action of the waves into numerous fantastic 
 251 
 
 caverns ; it slopes gradually on the east to the margin 
 of Ben-Loch, the declivity being richly covered with 
 pasture, and enlivened with a pleasing variety of field 
 flowers. The district of Burness, anciently St. Colmes, 
 comprises about 2500 acres, of which a considerable 
 portion is under profitable cultivation. Its surface is 
 nearly an uninterrupted level, and being almost sur- 
 rounded by the sea, it is abundantly supplied with sea- 
 weed for manure, and also for the manufacture of kelp. 
 The lands of the district are generally fertile and in 
 good cultivation, and its scenery is enlivened with fields 
 of luxuriant pasture, except near the junction with the 
 district of Cross, where there is an extensive tract of 
 barren moor. It is bounded on the west by the Atlantic, 
 from the violent surges of which it is sheltered by the 
 Holms of Ire ; and on the east by the bay of Otterswick, 
 formerly Odinswick, by which it is separated from the 
 parish of Lady. There is a fresh-water lake of consider- 
 able extent and depth, which is a favourite resort of 
 ducks and other aquatic fowl during the winter and 
 spring ; and both this loch and the more extensive one 
 of Bea, in the Cross district, are occasionally visited by 
 flocks of wild swans, as they pass north or south in their 
 vernal and autumnal migrations. 
 
 The substrata of the parish, in common with those of 
 the whole island, are principally of the old red sand- 
 stone formation, with sandstone flag and a little lime- 
 stone. In Burness is an isolated mass of gneiss, about 
 fourteen tons in weight, resting upon the surface, and 
 to which there is no rock of similar formation nearer 
 than Stromness, about thirty miles distant. On the west 
 shore of Cross is a singular rock of breccia, consisting of 
 rounded nodules of sandstone, with a few specimens of 
 quartz and calcareous nodules intermixed. The bays of 
 Stove and Otterswick abound with shell-fish of various 
 kinds, particularly cockles and the razor-fish ; and a 
 large accumulation of shells reduced to powder, and 
 heaped on the beach by the action of the waves, seems 
 to have been blown inland over the parish at differ- 
 ent periods. The system of agriculture is inferior to 
 that of many of the other islands of Orkney, from the 
 neglect it suffered during the almost general attention of 
 the inhabitants to the more profitable pursuit of manu- 
 facturing kelp, vast quantities of sea-weed being thrown 
 upon the shores. It has, however, been considerably 
 improved under the auspices of Mr. Laing of Papdale, 
 and Mr. Traill of Westove. The soil is well adapted 
 for turnips, of which large quantities are raised ; and the 
 abundant use of sea-weed as manure has greatly bene- 
 fited the lands, which now produce excellent oats and 
 bear, potatoes, grass, and various green crops. The 
 cattle are of the common breed, to the improvement of 
 which much attention is paid. The native breeds of 
 sheep are similar to those of Shetland and the Hebrides ; 
 some Merinos, introduced by Mr. Laing, have been 
 crossed with sheep of the Cheviot breed, and subse- 
 quently with sheep of the Orkneys. 
 
 The manufacture of kelp was formerly very extensive, 
 about 480 tons of a very superior quality being produced 
 annually, and readily obtaining a market at £9 per 
 ton ; but this source of profit has been almost annihi- 
 lated. As a substitute, considerable attention has been 
 paid to the improvement of the fisheries off the coast, 
 which are now conducted with activity and success. 
 The lobster-fishery affords employment to fourteen 
 
 2 K2
 
 C R O S 
 
 CRO S 
 
 boats, and fifteen sloops and boats are engaged in the 
 herring and cod fisheries ; the average quantity of cod 
 cured and dried here may be stated at fourteen tons 
 annually. Otters are frequently seen in the caverns of 
 the rocks on the western coast, and large shoals of what 
 are called bottle-nosed whales are occasionally embayed 
 here. These fish, which vary from five to twenty-five 
 feet in length, and in numbers from fifty to five hundred, 
 are on their appearance surrounded by the boats, and 
 driven into the shallow water on the sandy shore, where 
 they are easily taken. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of the North Isles, 
 synod of Orkney. The minister's stipend, including an 
 allowance for communion elements, is £'210, with a 
 manse situated in Cross, and a glebe in each of the dis- 
 tricts, together valued at £19 per annum; patron, the 
 Earl of Zetland. The churches are both old and incon- 
 venient structures ; that of Cross contains 2-18, and the 
 church of Burness 262, sittings. Divine service is per- 
 formed at each on alternate Sundays. There is a place 
 of worship for members of the Free Church. The paro- 
 chial school is well attended ; the master has a salary 
 of £46. 14., with a house and garden, and the fees 
 average £10. Several of those ancient buildings called 
 Picts' houses are scattered along the shores ; and in 
 Cross was formerly a small but handsome structure of 
 stone erected by James Fea, of Claistron, about the 
 beginning of the last century, as a family chapel and 
 burying-place. This was taken down when the property 
 was in the possession of ]Mr. Malcolm Laing, the histo- 
 rian of Scotland. 
 
 CROSS, or Ness, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in 
 the parish of Barvas, county of Ross and Cromarty, 
 2~ miles (N. W.) from Stornoway ; containing 1810 in- 
 habitants. The district is about ten miles in length, 
 and seven in breadth, and surrounded on all sides by the 
 .Atlantic, except on the south, where it is bounded by 
 Barvas and Stornoway. It forms the most northern 
 part of the island of Lewis, and its shores are bold and 
 wild : in many parts it is hilly, abounds in lakes, and 
 its large moors are deep and wet. The population is 
 employed a good deal in cod and ling fishing. The pa- 
 rish was in the presbytery of Lewis, synod of Glenelg : 
 the stipend of the minister was £120, with a manse, and 
 a glebe of the annual value of £3 ; patron, the Crown. 
 The church, situated about two miles from the Butt of 
 Lewis, was erected in 1829, by the Parliamentary Com- 
 missioners, and is a good and substantial, but plain edi- 
 fice. All the population adhered in 1843 to the Free 
 Church of Scotland. There are two or three schools. 
 Here are the ruins of a place of worship, supposed to 
 have been a chapel before the Reformation. 
 
 CROSS, an isle, in the parish of Dunrossness, 
 county of Shetland. It lies a short distance west of 
 the mainland of the parish, at the entrance of Quendal 
 bay, and is one of the smallest of the Shetland isles. 
 
 CROSS-ARTHURLEE, in the county of Renfrew. 
 — See Arthurlee, Cross. 
 
 CROSSFORD, a village, in the parish and district 
 of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 2 miles (S. W. by w.) 
 from Dunfermline ; containing 443 inhabitants. This 
 village, which is situated on the road to Kincardine and 
 Alloa, is built on the lands of Pitferrane, the property of 
 Sir C. Halket, Bart. It is chiefly inhabited by persons 
 employed in agriculture, and in works near the village. 
 252 
 
 CROSSFORD, a village, in the parish of Lesma- 
 HAGow, Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 5 miles 
 (N. W. byW.) from Lanark; containing 431 inhabitants. 
 It is situated in the northern part of the parish, and on 
 the high road from Lanark to Hamilton. The river 
 Clyde, which bounds the parish on the east, passes close 
 to the village. 
 
 CROSSGATES, a hamlet, in the parish of Cults, 
 district of Cupar, county of Fife ; containing 20 inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 CROSSGATES, a village, chiefly in the parish of 
 Dunfermline, and partly in that of Dalgety, district 
 of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 3 miles (E. by S.) from 
 Dunfermline ; containing 646 inhabitants. This village 
 is situated at the junction of the parishes of Dunferm- 
 line, Inverkeithing, and Dalgety, and takes its name 
 from the intersection of the roads from Edinburgh to 
 Perth and from Dunfermline to Kirkcaldy, which cross 
 each other here. It is well built, containing several 
 neat houses, and a good inn, where an agricultural asso- 
 ciation of the neighbouring gentry hold their meetings 
 for the annual distribution of prizes. A post-oflice has 
 been established under that of Inverkeithing ; and fairs 
 are held on the last Tuesday in April, the fourth Wed- 
 nesday in May, the third Tuesday in July, the second 
 Thursday in September, and the Friday before Hallow- 
 tide. To the north of the village is the Crossgates sta- 
 tion on the Dunfermline branch of the Edinburgh, Perth, 
 and Dundee railway. There is a place of worship for the 
 United Presbyterian Synod. 
 
 CROSSHILL, a village, in the parish of Kirk- 
 MiCHAEL, district of Carrick, county of Ayr, 2f miles 
 (S. E.) from Maybole ; containing 1163 inhabitants. 
 This village, which is pleasantly situated on the river 
 Girvan, has arisen within the last fifty or sixty years, 
 and is partly built on lands let for that purpose by the 
 proprietor of the barony of Dalhoan. There are also 
 houses built on the estates of Kilkerran and Kirkmichael, 
 forming part of the village. The inhabitants, a large 
 majority of whom are settlers from Ireland, are chiefly 
 employed in the cotton manufacture established by the 
 wholesale houses of Glasgow, who have agents residing 
 on the spot. A considerable number of the females, 
 both here and throughout the parish, are employed in 
 working and flowering muslins for the Glasgow and 
 Paisley manufacturers, and their work is much admired 
 for its elegance. In the village is a post-office, under that 
 of Maybole. A chapel of ease has been erected ; it is a 
 neat and substantial edifice, adapted for a congregation of 
 more than 4.50, and is so arranged as to admit of future 
 enlargement by the addition of galleries when requisite. 
 A spacious schoolroom was erected in the village by a 
 former proprietor, for the instruction of the children of 
 this part of the parish, and in addition to the use of the 
 schoolroom, the master receives a salary of £10 from the 
 General Assembly's Education Scheme, the school having 
 lately been taken into connexion with the schools of the 
 General Assembly. There is also an infants' school, com- 
 menced a few years ago, the mistress of which has £10 
 per annum, and fuel, besides a house and the schoolroom, 
 from the bounty of Sir Charles Dalrymple Fergusson, 
 Bart., of Kilkerran. 
 
 CRO.SSHILL, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in the 
 parish of Old Monkland, Middle ward of the county 
 of Lanark, 4| miles (E. by S.) from Glasgow; containing,
 
 C ROS 
 
 C R O S 
 
 with the villages of Bailliestoii, Barachnie, Broom- 
 house, Craigciid, West Merrystone, and Svvinton, '2591 
 inhabitants. This district is for the most part beauti- 
 fully situated, the land rising considerably above the 
 vale of the Clyde, and commanding, on the south, an 
 interesting view of all the hills and heights from the 
 western shore to the ridge of Tinto on the east, and on 
 the north from Ben-Lomond all along the Campsie and 
 Kilsyth hills. It is about eighteen square miles in ex- 
 tent, and the whole under cultivation, with the exception 
 of a few acres of plantation. The soil is chiefly sandy, 
 but towards the north of a stiff clayey nature, and the 
 farms have been latterly very much improved by tile- 
 draining : the average rent is now about £1. 5. per acre. 
 The freestone and coal formations prevail, and there are 
 seven coal-mines, of which six are at present in opera- 
 tion. The road between Glasgow and Edinburgh, and 
 the Monkland canal, pass through the parish, the latter 
 affording great facilities for the conveyance of coal to 
 Glasgow, and of manure and other heavy articles to the 
 farmers along its line. Among the chief mansions are 
 Mount Vernon, Blairtummock, Easterhouse, Baillieston 
 House, and Garrowhill, the last the residence for some 
 time of a former Duchess of Atholl. The principal village 
 is Baillieston, tchich see. The district is within the bounds 
 of the presbytery of Hamilton, synod of Glasgow and 
 Ayr. Its church was erected in 1833, by subscriptions 
 from the neighbouring heritors, aided by £50 from the 
 university of Glasgow, and is a neat plain edifice with a 
 belfry, containing 494 sittings, of which twenty-six are 
 free. The stipend of the minister is £70, raised by seat- 
 rents ; patrons, the Subscribers and Pew-holders. The 
 United Secession had a place of worship here for several 
 years, but it has been converted into dwelling-houses. 
 There is a branch parochial school, with an annual en- 
 dowment of £~ from the heritors of Old Monkland, and 
 a school-house rent free from the congregation of Cross- 
 hill ; also another school, supported by subscription, the 
 master of which has a free house, school-house, and gar- 
 den. Besides these, are schools connected with some of 
 the coal-works, and a female school at Broomhouse. 
 
 CROSSHILL, a village, in the parish of Cathcart, 
 Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 2 miles (S.) 
 from Glasgow ; containing 63 inhabitants. It lies in 
 the northern part of the parish, and on the eastern con- 
 fines of the county ; the road from Glasgow to Cathcart 
 runs a short distance westward of the village. There 
 is a valuable quarry of freestone, which is extensively 
 wrought for the erection of buildings in Glasgow. 
 
 CROSSIIOUSE, a village, in the parish of Kil- 
 MAURS, district of Cunninghame, county of Ayr, yi 
 miles (W. by N.) from Kilmarnock ; containing 255 in- 
 habitants. This place is situated on the western side of 
 the Carmel water, and on the roads between Irvine and 
 Kilmarnock, and Dundonald and Kihnaurs, which here 
 form a junction. In the village is a small school, the 
 master of which is allowed £6 per annum and a dwell- 
 ing by the heritors. 
 
 CROSSLEE, a village, in the parish of Houston, 
 Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, i a mile (S. by 
 E.) from Houston ; containing * 1 1 inhabitants. This 
 village lies in the southernmost extremity of the parish, 
 and on the banks of the Gryfe water, which is here very 
 devious in its course. It is a seat of the cotton manu- 
 facture, and there is au extensive mill, which employs a 
 '253 
 
 great part of the population. In the vicinity is Crosslee 
 House. A school has been established for the use of the 
 work-people and their children. 
 
 CROSSMICHAEL, a parish, in the stewartry of 
 Kirkcudbright ; containing, with the village of Clare- 
 brand, 13'21 inhabitants, of whom 2'2'2 are in the village 
 of Crossmichael, 3^ miles (N.) from Castle Douglas. 
 This place, which is of remote antiquity, derived its 
 name (in old documents Corse- Michael) from the dedica- 
 tion of its church, which was granted to the abbey of 
 Sweetheart in the year 12/5 by Dervorgille, wife of 
 Allan, Lord of Galloway, and mother of John Baliol, 
 King of Scotland. The parish is situated nearly in the 
 centre of the stewartry, and is bounded on the east by 
 the river Urr, and on the west by the Dee. It is about 
 four miles and a half in length, and nearly three and a 
 half in breadth, comprising 9700 acres, which, with the 
 exception of a small proportion of pasture laud and a 
 few acres of woodland and plantations, are all arable. 
 The surface is beautifully diversified. Along the banks 
 of the Dee the lands form part of an extensive valley in 
 rich cultivation ; but both from the Dee on the west 
 and the Urr on the east the ground i-ises gradually, to- 
 wards the centre, into a ridge whose acclivities are 
 marked with gentle undulations, all in tillage. Towards 
 the north-east are several hills affording only pasture for 
 sheep and cattle, but some of which have been planted 
 with larch, adding greatly to the beauty of the scenery. 
 There are three lakes in the parish, of w hich Loch Roan, 
 situated in the highest district, is about fifty acres in 
 extent, and of very considerable depth ; it is supplied 
 with water from no visible source but the clouds, and 
 by two outlets it sends a plentiful supply into Loch En- 
 crogo. This latter loch, in which are two small islands, 
 where sea-gulls formerly built their nests, is smaller than 
 Loch Roan ; and if the water were not necessary for 
 driving a corn-mill, it might easily be drained. Loch 
 Smaddy is still smaller in extent. All these lakes abound 
 with trout, perch, pike, and eels. 
 
 The SOIL is partly a fertile loam alternated with gra- 
 vel and sand, producing favourable crops of grain of all 
 kinds, with potatoes and turnips; and the pastures are 
 luxuriantly rich. The system of agriculture is improved, 
 and some of the lands have been drained, though much 
 still remains to be done in that respect. The cattle are 
 generally of the Galloway breed ; the cows upon the 
 dairy-farms are the Ayrshire : large numbers of sheep 
 are fed, and many small tenants pay a great part of their 
 rent by feeding pigs, which they sell at Dumfries. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £8327. 
 The plantations, which are well managed and in a thriv- 
 ing condition, are chiefly larch. The substrata are 
 mostly greywacke and slate. In this parish the seats 
 are, Greenlaw, Mollance, Danevale, Hillowton, CuUgruff, 
 and Ernespie. Crossmichael village has a post-office 
 under that of Castle-Douglas ; and facility of communi- 
 cation is afl'orded by good roads, of which those from 
 Kirkcudbright to Ayr, and from Dumfries to Portpatrick, 
 pass through the parish. There is a bridge over the Dee 
 at Glenlochar ; also a ferry nearly opposite the manse. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parisli is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright, synod of 
 Galloway. The minister's stipend is about £2/0, with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £28 per annum ; patron, 
 Mrs. Gauld. Crossmichael church, situated in the
 
 C RO Y 
 
 C R O Y 
 
 western portion of the parish, is a plain structure erected 
 in 1751 ; it was repaired and enlarged in 1S22, and con- 
 tains 650 sittings. There is a place of worship for the 
 United Presbyterian Synod adjoining Castle-Douglas. 
 Two parochial schools are supported ; the master of one 
 has a salary of £31, with a house and garden, and his 
 fees average nearly £30. The other school was built, 
 and endowed with £11 per annum, by William Gordon, 
 Esq. ; the master has also a salary of £10, with a house 
 and garden, but no fees. Another school is held, to 
 which the heritors give £10 a year, making, with the 
 fees charged, but a small income for the teacher. All 
 these schools are strictly examined once a year by a 
 committee of presbytery, and prizes given to the most 
 deserving scholars. A Sabbath-morning school is taught 
 by the clergyman of the parish and the Ringanwhey 
 schoolmaster, and prizes given to the scholars twice a 
 year. There is also a parochial library. The parish 
 formerly contained numerous tumuli, in which were 
 found human bones of large size ; and there are still 
 several remains of ancient forts. Roman urns and wea- 
 pons have been discovered by the plough ; also, the head 
 of a war-horse in bronze, and other Roman relics. On 
 a steep crag overhanging Loch Roan, are some remains 
 of a hill fortress still called the Kirk of Loch Roan. 
 
 CROSSMILL, a village, in the Abbey parish of the 
 town of Paisley, Upper ward of the county of Ren- 
 frew ; forming part of the late quoad sacra parish of 
 Levern, and containing 265 inhabitants. 
 
 CROSSMYLOOF, a village, in the parish of Cath- 
 CART, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 2| miles 
 (S. S. W.) from Glasgow ; containing 587 inhabitants. 
 It is situated on the road from Glasgow to Pollockshaws, 
 and a short distance north-eastward of the latter town. 
 The White Cart water passes in the vicinity, on the south. 
 There is a small dissenters' school. 
 
 CROVIE, a village, in the parish of Gamrie, county 
 of Banff, 6 miles (W. by N.) from Aberdour; contain- 
 ing 164 inhabitants. This is a small fishing-station, 
 situated on the coast of the Moray Firth, about a mile 
 east of the village of Gardenstown. It is supposed to 
 have been founded in the early part of the last century. 
 Nine boats belonging to it are engaged in fishing for 
 haddock, whiting, and other small fish, which produce 
 as much as £1215 per annum ; and a revenue of nearly 
 £400 per annum is obtained from cod and ling. 
 
 CROY and DALCROSS, a parish, partly in the 
 county of Nairn, but chiefly in that of Inverness, 7 
 miles (W. by S.) from Nairn, and about 10 (E.) from 
 Inverness; containing 16S4 inhabitants. The etymology 
 of the name of Croy is altogether uncertain : the word 
 Dalcross is derived from a Gaelic term signifying " the 
 dale at the end of the ravine", and this description is 
 strikingly applicable to the locality. The date of the 
 union of the two ancient parishes cannot now be ascer- 
 tained ; but upon the authority of charters still extant, 
 the event appears to have taken place some time be- 
 tween the middle and the close of the fifteenth century. 
 In the year 1128, Dalcross, which anciently formed part 
 of the lordship of Lovat, was annexed to the priory of 
 Urquhart, founded in 1125 by David I. ; and the vicar 
 of Dalcross, by order of the prior, also officiated in the 
 private chapel of Kilravock. A large part of the moor 
 of CuUoden is situated in the parish : here was fought, 
 on the I6th April, 1746, the celebrated battle that de- 
 254 
 
 cided the fate of the Stuarts. This parish, the outline 
 of which is of the most irregular description, is about 
 twenty-one miles in length, and three miles and a half 
 in average breadth, comprising 44,800 acres. Its sur- 
 face partly consists of a long continuous vale, watered 
 by the river Nairn, and the lands of which are in some 
 places wooded, and in others rich and well cultivated. 
 An extensive tract of upland moor reaches from the 
 river to the north and north-western boundaries, and is 
 here and there interspersed with cultivated portions, but 
 is in general bleak and barren, and of wild appearance. 
 
 The soil on the southern bank of the river is light and 
 gravelly, but, if well farmed, fertile. In the eastern 
 part of the parish it comprises all the varieties of sand, 
 lime, fine vegetable mould, and cold, wet, and some- 
 times ferruginous earth. In the centre of the district it 
 is a very fine mould ; and between this and the western 
 portion called Leys is the moor, covering about I700 
 acres, the soil of which exhibits sand, lime, and clay, 
 with various admixtures. The Leys district is chiefly 
 a siliceous or gravelly earth incumbent on red sand- 
 stone. Some of the larger proprietors have set an ex- 
 ample to the tenants, in the formation of indosures, and 
 the reclaiming of large tracts of waste ground, which 
 have been sheltered with belts of plantations, and are so 
 well cultivated as to produce fine crops of wheat, oats, 
 and barley. The general husbandry is improved. More 
 extensive improvements have taken place here of late 
 than in any other parish in this part of Scotland ; and 
 the farmers, and even the cottars, follow the example of 
 the landlords, to the extent of their ability. The an- 
 nual value of real property in the parish is £3917. The 
 rocks comprise granite, gneiss, and the old red sand- 
 stone : several quarries of the last are in operation. 
 Some of the trees of the plantations are of great age 
 and stature ; and 400 acres have been lately set apart 
 for larch, oak, and other wood, in addition to the ex- 
 tensive plantations already existing. The castle of Kil- 
 ravock, situated upon a bold rugged rock, and which 
 has been the residence of the Roses since the year 1460, 
 is the property of Hugh Rose, Esq., the chief, and the 
 twenty-fourth in lineal descent. Dalcross Castle, built 
 by Lord Lovat in 1631, stands in the midst of imposing 
 scenery, and commands extensive views of the most in- 
 teresting character. Lej's Castle, recently built, is a 
 strikingly beautiful edifice, and also commands views 
 embracing every description of picturesque scenery. 
 The mansion of Holm is an elegant modern structure, 
 situated on the banks of the Nairn ; and that of Can- 
 tray, also a modern edifice, is nearly encompassed on 
 the south by the same river. A market is held for the 
 sale of cattle and sheep, on the Saturday immediately 
 following the great Beauly market. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Nairn, synod of Moray, and in the patronage of Earl 
 Cawdor and Mr. Rose, who present alternately ; the 
 minister's stipend is £239, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £ 1 1 per annum. The remains of Dalcross 
 church have almost disappeared : the present parish 
 church, containing sittings for 527 persons, was built in 
 1767, and repaired in 1829. The parochial school 
 affords instruction in the usual branches ; the master 
 has the maximum salary, with a house, and about £20 
 fees. The parish contains several Druidical circles ; 
 and to the west of the church is a large grey stone called
 
 C R UD 
 
 CULL 
 
 Clach na Seanaish, or " the listening stone ", at which, 
 in ancient times, secret communications were made re- 
 lating to the movements and designs of hostile clans. 
 
 CRUDEN, or Invercruden, a parish, in the dis- 
 trict of Ellon, county of Aberdeen, 7 miles (S. S. W.) 
 from Peterhead ; containing, with the villages of Finny- 
 fold or Whinnie-Fauld, BuUers-Buchan, and the Ward, 
 '2349 inhabitants. This place was the scene of a memo- 
 rable battle fought in the year 100.5, upon a plain near 
 the bay of Ardendraught, between Malcolm II. and the 
 Danes under Canute, in which the latter, who had a 
 castle in the neighbourhood, were totally defeated. The 
 parish is situated on the shore of the German Ocean ; 
 it is eleven miles in length, and varies in breadth from 
 four to seven miles, mostly comprising cultivated land. 
 The sea forms the southern boundary, and the coast 
 is marked by bold and lofty rocks of red granite from 
 the east end to Slains Castle, close to which is the Ward, 
 a small fishing-village affording occasionally a landing- 
 place for coal and lime. Beyond this, to Sand End, a 
 distance of about two miles, stretches a fine sandy beach 
 called the Bay of Cruden, from the south extremity of 
 which runs a ridge of sunken rocks named the Scares 
 of Cruden ; and from this place the shore is exceedingly 
 abrupt and majestic all along the south, the rocks con- 
 sisting of black basalts. The climate is bleak ; and 
 when the wind is high the grandeur of the ocean is so 
 striking that Dr. Johnson, who visited this spot in his 
 celebrated tour, declared that Slains Castle was the 
 place from which he should wish to behold a storm. 
 To the east of Slains Castle are the rocks known far and 
 ■wide as the BuUers (bulwarks) of Buchan, Buchan being 
 the name of this part of Aberdeenshire : they are much 
 visited in the summer by strangers, in boats, the rocks 
 presenting some fine natural arches, one in particular 
 leading into a pool of water, surrounded by high cliffs, 
 and called the Pot. Husbandry is on a respectable foot- 
 ing, great improvements having been made, especially 
 in draining ; and the farmers, who in general have 
 commodious houses, live comfortably. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £8*92. Quarries of 
 red granite were in operation some time since, and sup- 
 plied a material for several of the London bridges ; but 
 they have all been closed. 
 
 Very little wood is to be seen : what there is, is 
 chiefly in the vicinity of Slains Castle, already men- 
 tioned, a remarkably strong edifice, built on the margin 
 of the sea, and the residence for generations of the Earls 
 of Erroll. A carding and spinning mill was lately 
 erected on the estate of Aquaharney, and is conducted 
 on a somewhat extensive scale : the thread manufactories 
 formerly employing so many hands have become totally 
 extinct. The parish is situated on the public road be- 
 tween Aberdeen and Peterhead, and to the latter place 
 and Ncwburgh the produce is sent for sale, except that 
 part of the cattle disposed of at various other markets. 
 A small cattle-fair is held in April, and another in May; 
 and some business is done in the sale of fish, there being 
 a salmon-fishery near the Ward, and stations at the 
 other villages for the fish common to the coast. Eccle- 
 siastically the parish is in the presbytery of Ellon, synod 
 of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of the Earl of Erroll ; 
 the minister's stipend is £204, with a manse, and a 
 glebe of six acres of arable land and pasturage ground. 
 Cruden church was built in 1776, and lately enlarged. 
 255 
 
 A place of worship has been erected in connexion with 
 the Free Church, and there is also an episcopal chapel. 
 The parochial school affords instruction in the usual 
 branches ; the master has a salary of £26, with £18 
 fees, and participates in the Dick bequest. A parochial 
 library was established a few years since. 
 
 CUFFABOUT, a hamlet, in the parish of Carriden, 
 county of Linlithgow; containing 16 inhabitants. 
 This is a very small place, situated on the shore of the 
 Firth of Forth, a short distance east-south-east of Bridge- 
 ness, and close to the parochial church. 
 
 CULBOKIE, a village, in the parish of Urquhart 
 and Wester Logie, county of Ross and Cromarty ; 
 containing 107 inhabitants. It is situated a short dis- 
 tance eastward from the shore of the Firth of Cromarty, 
 and about two miles and a half east-north-east from the 
 town of Dingwall. Four fairs are holden in the course 
 of the year. 
 
 CULCABOCH, a village, in the parish and county 
 of Inverness, 1 mile (S. E.) from Inverness ; contain- 
 ing 279 inhabitants. This village, which is pleasantly 
 situated to the west of the Castle Hill, is inhabited 
 chiefly by persons employed in agriculture, and by a few 
 Wrights and masons. 
 
 CULLEN, a burgh, sea- 
 port, and parish, in the coun- 
 ty of Banff, 5 miles (W. by 
 N.) from the town of Port- 
 soy, and 170 (N. by E.) from 
 Edinburgh; containing 1564, 
 inhabitants, of whom 712 are ' 
 in the tovi'n of Cullen, 7II in 1 
 the Sea-town of Cullen, and > 
 141 in the rural district. 
 This place, the origin of the 
 name of which is altogether 
 uncertain, was originally 
 called Inverculan, being bounded on the north and west 
 by the water of Cullen, which falls into the sea on the 
 western side of the parish. In ancient times it formed 
 part of the parish of Fordyce. Its early history is for 
 the most part involved in obscurity ; but there appears 
 to be no reason to doubt the truth of the tradition, that 
 a severe conflict took place here between the Danes and 
 the Scots under Indulfus, in the year 960. The Scottish 
 king was killed by an arrow at the head of his troops ; 
 but the enemy were completelj' routed, and this battle is 
 supposed to have been among the last fought with the 
 Danes before their expulsion from the kingdom in the 
 beginning of the eleventh century. It is known by the 
 name of " the battle of the Baads ", on account of the 
 field of action (which was the moor of Rannachie) being 
 called the Baads of Cullen ; tumuli abound in every 
 direction, and the decayed bones and fragments of arms 
 contained in them are concluded to be deposits of the 
 remains of the defeated army. The lands have from a 
 remote period been the property of the ancestors of the 
 Earl of Seafield, the present proprietor, who traces his 
 descent from Gilchrist Ogilvie, created Earl of Angus by 
 King Malcolm Canmorc. A bede-house was erected, 
 most probably by one of this family, and endowed for 
 the support of eight decayed farmers and eight farmers' 
 widows i but the hospital system was abolished about 
 sixty or seventy years since, and the funds arc now ap- 
 plied by the Earl of Seafield, who has the management. 
 
 Burgh Seal.
 
 CULL 
 
 CULL 
 
 in the distribution of meal to poor families belonging to 
 his estates in the parishes of Cullen, Rathven, Deskford, 
 and Fordyce. The church of Cullen, originally dedi- 
 cated to St. Mary, was founded by Robert I., whose 
 queen, Elizabeth, is supposed to have been buried in it, 
 and who appointed a chaplain, with an endowment, to 
 offer up prayers for her soul. It had a provost, six 
 prebendaries, and two singing boys, whose offices were 
 founded in 1543, by one of the Ogilvies, aided by several 
 eminent persons of both the clergy and laity : the foun- 
 dation was endowed with considerable property and 
 many privileges, and vvas subsequently confirmed by 
 William, Bishop of Aberdeen, and John, Archbishop of 
 St. Andrew's. The town was much exposed in turbu- 
 lent times to the violence of party commotions. It was 
 repeatedly plundered by the Marquess of Montrose ; on 
 one occasion, in May 1645, he sent troops to the place, 
 who first plundered it of every thing valuable, and then 
 burnt it to the ground. 
 
 The TOWN is situated on the coast of the Moray Firth, 
 and consists of two parts, entirely separated, called re- 
 spectively the New-town and the Sea or Fish town. 
 The former of these received its distinguishing appella- 
 tion from its recent erection in place of the old town, 
 which was meanly built, and entirely demoli.shed about 
 the year 1S5'2 to make room for the improvements of 
 Cullen House. It stands nearer to the sea than the old 
 town, being close to the eastern extremity of the Sea- 
 town, and is on a much higher site. There are many 
 good houses, regularly and tastefully disposed ; and it 
 has altogether a neat and interesting appearance, form- 
 ing a striking contrast to the miscellaneous collection 
 of fishermen's tenements below, constituting the Sea- 
 town. All the buildings contemplated in the plan are 
 not yet completed ; but the favourable situation of 
 the place for fishing and agricultural occupations, and 
 the agreeable character of the surrounding district, 
 afford every promise of future advancement. Its con- 
 tiguity to the beautiful bay of Cullen, and the pictu- 
 resque grounds of Cullen House, with the traffic of the 
 post-road from Banff to Fochabers, which runs through 
 it, invest the immediate locality with a lively and pleas- 
 ing aspect ; while the highly diversified scenery around, 
 comprising hill and dale, wood and water, with well cul- 
 tivated fields, and the precipitous and majestic rocks 
 along the shore, unite to render the environs attractive. 
 Some of the eminences command fine views of the sea, 
 enlivened with trading-vessels and fishing-boats, with the 
 lofty headland of Scarnose at the western extremity of 
 the bay, and the Castle hill, the site of an old fortifica- 
 tion, overhanging the Sea-town ; and over the Firth, in 
 the distance, are seen the sable mountains of Sutherland 
 and Caithness. The Bin hill, bordering upon the parish, 
 and ri.':^ing IO76 feet above the sea, and which is planted 
 with trees of various kinds, is also a prominent object in 
 the surrounding scenery, and affords an excellent land- 
 mark to maiiners. The town contains numerous good 
 shops, and has every convenience calculated to render it 
 a desirable place of residence : many of the houses are 
 lighted with gas, supplied by a company established in 
 1841 with a capital of £1000. Among the public build- 
 ings the most conspicuous is the hotel, erected in 1822, 
 at a cost of £3000, by the Earl of Seafield. It is situated 
 in the public square, and has attached to it an elegant 
 ballroom, forty-three feet long and twentv-three broad; 
 256 
 
 a spacious room in which the sheriff and justice-of-peace 
 courts are held ; and the council-room of the burgh, an 
 elegant circular apartment, twenty-three feet in diameter 
 and sixteen feet high. 
 
 The inhabitants were formerly much engaged in manu- 
 factures. In 174s the Earl of Findlater and Seafield in- 
 troduced the manufacture of linen, and subsequently 
 sixty-five looms were constantly at work, some of them 
 for weaving damask, besides seven stocking-looms. In 
 addition to this, a great number of webs were given out 
 to be woven by country-people in their own houses ; but 
 these sources of employment have now all ceased, and 
 the inhabitants are almost exclusively occupied in agri- 
 culture and fishing. There are about thirty boats be- 
 longing to the place which are engaged in fishing for cod, 
 skate, ling, and haddocks : the herring-fishery, on ac- 
 count of some recent failures in the quantity of fish, has 
 been given up, and the men and their boats are hired 
 every season by the curers at Wick, Macduff, Fraser- 
 burgh, and Peterhead. The average annual value of the 
 several fisheries carried on in the bay is £7543, including 
 £750 for the salmon-fishery. About twenty persons are 
 employed in boat-building, and complete above forty 
 boats each year ; and recently, five vessels varying in 
 burthen from 40 to 110 tons have been built here in 
 three years. The harbour, which is small but convenient, 
 was constructed by the Earl of Seafield in I8I7, and 
 enlarged in 1834 with an additional quay, the cost of the 
 whole work amounting to more than £10,000 ; the water 
 at neap tides is eight feet and a half deep, and at spring 
 tides twelve feet. There are four vessels belonging to 
 the port of from 40 to 100 tons each, the aggregate 
 burthen being 270 tons. Coal, salt, staves, and barley for 
 distillation, constitute the chief imports ; and the exports 
 are herrings, dried-fish, timber, oats, and potatoes. A 
 distillery was erected in 1824, and considerably enlarged 
 in 1S28 ; it produces upwards of 25,000 gallons of proof 
 spirits annually, and on the water of Cullen are a lint- 
 mill, a saw-mill, and a meal-mill. Steam-boats plying 
 between Inverness and Leith visit the bay. A weekly 
 market is held during the spring months for the sale of 
 grain ; and there are fairs, principally for the hiring of 
 servants, on the third Friday in May, the second Friday 
 in November, and the 7th of January. 
 
 Cullen is a royal burgh of considerable antiquity, as 
 appears from a charter of James I., dated 1455, ratifying 
 one of Robert I., by which the usual liberties and pri- 
 vileges had been granted. It was at one time a con- 
 stabulary, of which the Earl of Findlater was hereditary 
 constable, by virtue of an ancient right ; but the council 
 now consists of a provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, 
 treasurer, and thirteen others, the jurisdiction extending 
 over a district of about three miles from east to west and 
 two from north to south. The parliamentary boundaries 
 are much less extensive than those of the royalty : the 
 burgh is united with Elgin, Banff, Inverury, Peterhead, 
 and Kintore, in sending a member, and of the consti- 
 tuency of the whole about thirty-eight belong to Cullen. 
 A sheriff small-debt court, for suras not exceeding £8. 
 6. 8., is held on the second Thursday in February, June, 
 and October ; and a justice-of-peace court on the first 
 Tuesday in every month, for sums not exceeding £5. 
 A lock-up house containing three apartments is used for 
 the punishment of delinquents, and for the custody of 
 persons to be afterwards sent to the county gaol.
 
 CULL 
 
 CULR 
 
 The PARISH is about a mile and a half in length from 
 north to south, and one mile in breadth. It comprises 
 an area of 684 acres, of which 34 are occupied as the site 
 of the to\vn,4'25 are arable, 1 10 park-ground belonging to 
 CuUen House, and the remainder waste pasturage and 
 moor, along the sea-shore. The land in general is of 
 superior quality, consisting of a rich loam incumbent on 
 clay or gravel, and yielding crops of wheat, barley, oats, 
 potatoes, and turnips ; the soil on the higher grounds 
 is thin, resting on gravel, but tolerably productive, and 
 most of the land owes its abundant returns, in a great 
 measure, to the profusion of fish-refuse applied as 
 manure. About 200 acres of land are let to the inhabit- 
 ants of the town in small allotments, each being suf- 
 ficient for the support of a cow. The towns-people 
 usually keep Banffshire cows ; the cattle on the farms 
 are mostly a cross between the Banffshire and the Tees- 
 water : the sheep are chiefly of the Cheviot kind. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £2243. 
 Cullen House, situated at a small distance from the town, 
 is an ancient structure with many splendid apartments 
 elegantly furnished. It is embosomed in plantations 
 covering about thirty acres, and comprising all the trees, 
 both useful and ornamental, found in the country. At 
 the base of the rock on which the mansion stands flows 
 the water of Cullen, here crossed by a stone bridge of 
 one arch ; and the numerous winding walks and drives 
 also contribute to the beautifully picturesque appearance 
 of the pleasure-grounds. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 in the presbytery of Fordyce, synod of Aberdeen, and in 
 the patronage of the Earl of Seafield. The minister's 
 stipend is £156, of which about a fourth is received from 
 the exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe valued at £27 
 per annum. Cullen church, accommodating 800 persons, 
 is a cruciform structure of great antiquity, but still in 
 very good condition. It is situated in the centre of the 
 old burying-ground, nearly encompassed by the lands of 
 Cullen House ; and the interior contains many elegant 
 monuments to members of the Findlater and Seafield 
 family who were buried here. A portion of the parish 
 of llathven has long been attached to Cullen quoad 
 sacra, and a church was erected in that district in 1839, 
 chiefly by the assistance of the Earl of Seafield. A place 
 of worship has been erected in connexion with the Free 
 Church. The parochial or grammar school affords in- 
 struction in the usual branches ; the master has a salary 
 of £36, with a house and garden, between £10 and £15 
 fees, and a share in the Dick bequest. A parochial 
 library was established in 1830. Of the eminent cha- 
 racters connected with this parish may be mentioned, 
 James, fourth Earl of Findlater and first Earl of Sea- 
 field, the distinguished lawyer and statesman, who died 
 in 1/30; and James, sixth Earl of Findlater and third 
 Earl of Seafield, who introduced into the north of Scot- 
 land those improvements in agriculture and manufac- 
 tures which raised it so considerably in civilization : 
 he died at Cullen House in 1/70. Sir James Clark, 
 Bart., first physician in ordinary to Her Majesty, was 
 born in the parish in 1788. 
 
 CULLICUDDEN, in the county of Ross and Cro- 
 marty. — See KiRKMiCHAEL and Cullicudden. 
 
 CULLOCllBURN, or Collochburn, a village, in 
 the parish of Cambuslang, Middle ward of the county 
 of Lanark; containing 1C6 inhabitants. The greater 
 part of the population is employed in manufactures. 
 Vol. I.— 257 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 CULROSS, a royal burgh 
 and a parish, in the county 
 of Perth, 7 miles (W.) from 
 Dunfermline, and 21 (W. N. 
 VV.) from Edinburgh ; con- 
 taining, with the villages of 
 Blairburn and Low Valley- 
 field, 1444 inhabitants, of 
 whom 603 are in the burgh. 
 This place, which is of re- 
 mote antiquity, derives its 
 name from its situation in 
 a detached portion of the 
 county, forming part of the peninsula of Fifeshire. It 
 was anciently the property of the Macduffs, of whose 
 baronial residence of Dunnemarl Castle there are still 
 some remains on Castle Hill, on the banks of the Forth, 
 to the west of the town. Here, according to tradition, 
 was perpetrated the murder of Lady Macduff and her 
 children by the usurper Macbeth. A monastery was 
 founded in 1278 by Malcolm, Thane of Fife, for brethren 
 of the Cistercian order, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary 
 and St. Serf or Servanus. It continued to flourish till 
 the Reformation, at which time Alexander, son of Sir 
 James Colville, was abbot ; and to his brother Sir James, 
 the revenues, amounting to £'68. 16. 7^:. in money, 
 besides considerable payments in kind, were granted in 
 1604 by James VI., who also raised him to the peerage 
 by the title of Lord Colville of Culross. The abbey and 
 lands attached to it subsequently became the property of 
 the Earl of Dundonald, from whom they were purchased 
 by Sir Robert Preston, Bart., whose representative is the 
 present proprietor. 
 
 The town, which is situated on the north shore of the 
 Firth of Forth, consists of one principal street extending 
 from the Firth by a precipitous acclivity towards the 
 north, and of several detached portions along the coast. 
 The houses are generally of ancient character, and to 
 most of them is attached a portion of garden-ground ; 
 presenting, as seen from the Firth, a picturesque and in- 
 teresting appearance, which is heightened by numerous 
 handsome seats and pleasing villas in the immediate 
 vicinity. A very considerable trade was formerly carried 
 on in the export of coal, of which a mine had been ex- 
 cavated, reaching for some distance under the waters of 
 the Firth ; and also in the manufacture of salt. The 
 produce of the mine was chiefly sent to Holland, whence 
 various kinds of merchandise were imported, and dis- 
 tributed from this town to different parts of the country ; 
 but the mine was long since exhausted, and the trade has 
 been discontinued. The manufacture of girdles for 
 baking oatmeal cakes, for which the town had patents 
 from James VI. and Charles II., was also pursued for 
 some time ; but since the establishment of the Carron 
 iron-works, where they are made at a very reduced price, 
 that manufacture has ceased. The only trade now 
 carried on is the weaving of linen for the manufacturers 
 of Dunfermline, and of cotton-cloths for those of Glasgow, 
 in which about seventy persons are employed. Fairs are 
 held on the 2nd of July and the third Wednesday in 
 November ; and there arc two good inns. 
 
 Culross was erected into a royal burgh in 1588, by 
 charter of James VI., under which it is governed by a 
 chief magistrate and nineteen councillors. There are 
 seven incorporated trades, the weavers, wrights, shoe- 
 
 2 L
 
 C UL R 
 
 C U LS 
 
 makers, bakers, smiths, tailors, and butchers, into which 
 only burgesses are admissible ; the fees for admission 
 vary, for sons of freemen, from 13s. 6(/. to £1. 1., and 
 for strangers from £2. 5. to £3. The magistrates have 
 the usual civil and criminal jurisdiction, but no cases have 
 come under their notice since the year 1828. Culross 
 is associated with Dunfermline, Inverkeithing, Queens- 
 ferry, and Stirling, in returning a member to the imperial 
 parliament ; the number of qualified voters is twenty-five. 
 The town-house is an ancient building, to which is at- 
 tached a small prison containing two apartments, one for 
 debtors, and the other for criminal offenders. Facility 
 of communication is afforded by a turnpike-road that 
 passes through the centre of the parish to Dunfermhne ; 
 and a pier has been constructed at the old harbour, from 
 which there is a ferry to Borrowstounness, on the op- 
 posite shore of the Firth. The Stirling and Dunfermline 
 railway, also, intersects the parish. 
 
 The PARISH formerly included the barony of Kincar- 
 dine, which was separated from it in 16*2, and added 
 to the parish of Tulliallan. It is about four miles in 
 length, and nearly of equal breadth, comprising about 
 10,000 acres, of which nearly 4000 acres are arable, 2000 
 woodland and plantations, and the remainder pasture, 
 garden-ground, and waste. The surface rises in bold 
 undulations from the shore of the Firth for some dis- 
 tance towards the north and north-west, forming a ridge 
 of low hills, bej-ond which it subsides into a fertile valley 
 watered by a rivulet called the Bluther. Along the shore 
 the soil is a deep black loam of great fertility ; tov^ards 
 the middle of the parish, of a clayey nature, but under 
 good management producing favourable crops ; and to- 
 wards the north and north-west, of poorer quality. The 
 crops are wheat, oats, barley, peas, beans, potatoes, and 
 turnips ; the system of husbandry is in a very advanced 
 state. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £5600. The plantations, which are very extensive, 
 and in a thriving condition, contain every variety of firs 
 and hard-wood trees, of which latter oak and beech seem 
 best adapted to the soil. The principal substrata are 
 clay-slate and sandstone : clay of good quahty for pottery 
 and for tire-bricks may be procured in abundance ; and 
 limestone and ironstone are also found, but not in suf- 
 ficient quantities to remunerate the labour of working. 
 In this parish the mansion-houses are, Culross Abbey, 
 formerly the seat of the Bruce family, and afterwards of 
 the Earl of Dundonald, beautifully situated on the shore ; 
 Valleyfield, lately the seat of Sir Robert Preston, an 
 elegant mansion in a demesne tastefully laid out, and 
 embellished with plantations ; Castle Hill, a handsome 
 modern seat, near the site of the castle of the MacdufTs ; 
 and Blair Castle, built on the site of an ancient seat 
 erected by Hamilton, Archbishop of St. Andrew's. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 hounds of the presbytery of Dunfermline, synod of Fife. 
 The living is collegiate 5 the minister of the first charge 
 has a stipend of £156, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £20, and the minister of the second charge £116, with 
 an allowance in money in lieu of manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £25. Lady Keith and Lady Baird Preston 
 are alternate patrons. Culross church is a portion of 
 the ancient abbey church, originally a venerable cruci- 
 form structure, with a lofty tower rising from the centre : 
 this tower, and the choir now appropriated as the parish 
 church, and containing "00 sittings, are the only parts 
 258 
 
 remaining. On the north side is the burying-place of 
 the Bruce family, containing a monument on which are 
 figures of Sir George Bruce and his lady recumbent, 
 and, beneath, of their seven children in a kneeling pos- 
 ture, beautifully sculptured in white marble. Upon one 
 side of this aisle is a projecting piece of masonry con- 
 taining in a silver case the heart of Edward, second 
 Lord Bruce of Kinross, who fell in a duel near Bergen-op- 
 Zoom in 16X4. The parochial school is well attended ; 
 the master has a salary of £34, with a house and gar- 
 den, and the fees average £30, in addition to which he 
 receives £10 from a bequest. There is also an endowed 
 school for boys and girls, the master of which receives 
 a salary of £36, and has a house and garden, for gratui- 
 tously teaching twenty children, and superintending a 
 Sunday school. 
 
 Dr. Bill, a native of the parish, who died in London 
 in 173s, bequeathed £1000 for the payment of small 
 sums quarterly to four decayed tradesmen and two 
 tradesmen's widows, for apprenticing young persons, 
 and for the foundation of a bursary in one of the uni- 
 versities. Sir George Bruce of Carnock, in the year 1639, 
 founded an hospital, which he endowed for the main- 
 tenance of six aged widows of the parish ; the building 
 has long since fallen into decay, but the income from 
 the endowment is distributed among eight widows. The 
 late Sir Robert Preston and his lady bequeathed an en- 
 dowment for the distribution of meal and money, weekly, 
 to six aged men and six aged women who have lived for 
 ten years in the parish. Connected with this charity is 
 a building in which soup is given, two days in the week, 
 during the winter, to families in this and the adjoining 
 parish of Torrybum. Miss Halkerston, of Carskerdo, 
 in the county of Fife, lately left a sum of money to be 
 invested in land, for the relief of industrious persons not 
 receiving parochial aid. At the east end of the town are 
 the remains of St. Mungo's chapel, near which, according 
 to tradition, that saint was born, and educated by Serf, 
 the patron saint of the parish ; and to the west of the 
 abbey are some remains of the ancient parish church. 
 
 CULSAMOND, or Culsalmond, a parish, in the 
 district of Garioch, county of Aberdeen, 2| miles 
 (X. W.) from Old Rain; containing 1104 inhabitants. 
 This place is said to have derived its name from the 
 Gaelic term Cul-Sal-Mon, signifying " the end of the 
 hill lands ". It is about four and a half miles in length, 
 from north to south, and three in breadth ; comprising 
 7400 acres, of which 4000 are in tillage, 300 in pasture, 
 900 in plantations, and the remainder uncultivated. The 
 surface is level, with the exception of one or two mode- 
 rate elevations, of which Culsamond hill commands a 
 fine view of Belrinnes on the west, and, on the north- 
 west, of the Caithness hills, and part of the Moray Firth 
 and of the Buchan district in the distance. The river 
 Urie passes through the whole length of the parish, and 
 after flowing for about nineteen miles from its source in 
 the parish of Gartly, and drawing into its channel many 
 minor streams, empties itself into the Don at Inverury. 
 The soil is various, but in general consists of a dark 
 loam partly on a sandy and ironstone bottom ; clay in 
 some places forms a subsoil, and the land is for the most 
 part fertile, and the crops usually early. In the hill of 
 Culsamond are several quarries of valuable slate of a 
 fiue blue colour, from which large quantities are raised. 
 Ironstone is found in the parish, lying in detached
 
 CULT 
 
 CULT 
 
 masses on or near the surface ; and bog-iron ore has 
 been discovered in combination witli decomposed oak- 
 wood, about eight feet below the surface. A bed of 
 coarse sand is spread a little below the ground on the 
 estate of Pulquhite, supposed to be the debris of granite 
 belonging to the hill of Benochee (five or six miles dis- 
 tant), and to have been brought hither by the action of 
 water. In the northern portion of the same farm, about 
 three feet below the surface, is a bed of moss, in some 
 parts above eight feet deep, and reaching from north to 
 south between thirty and forty yards ; over which a soil 
 composed chiefly of gravel and stones has been deposited 
 by some casualty. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £4602. The plantations, which were com- 
 menced about seventy or eighty years since, though not 
 very extensive, yet being dispersed, and often appearing 
 in the form of clumps and belts, give a picturesque ap- 
 pearance to the district. On the hill of Culsamond, 
 •250 acres have been planted within the present century; 
 and the vicinities of Williamston House and Newton 
 House, both modern mansions pleasantly situated on the 
 east bank of the Urie, have been much improved and 
 beautified by the tasteful arrangement of their surround- 
 ing plantations. The turnpike-road from Aberdeen to 
 Inverness, by Inverury, Old Rain, and Huntly, passes 
 through the parish. St. Sair's fair is held here, in June, 
 for cattle, horses, sheep, and wool. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Garioch, synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of Sir 
 John Forbes : the minister's stipend is £150, of which 
 above a third is received from the exchequer; with a 
 raanse, and a glebe of ten acres, valued at £30 per an- 
 num. Culsamond church is in good condition. The 
 parochial school affords instruction in the usual branches; 
 the master has a salary of £34, with a house, erected in 
 1823, an allowance in lieu of a garden, and about £19 
 fees. Among the numerous vestiges of military works, 
 are those of a British encampment on the north-east side 
 of the hill of Culsamond. There are also some remains 
 of Druidical temples and ancient cairns, in one of the 
 latter of which, on the farm of Mill of Williamston, an 
 immense wooden coffin of very rude construction was 
 found in 1S12, containing an urn, and supposed to have 
 been deposited anterior to the Christian era. Stone 
 axes and other warlike instruments have been found ; 
 and some years since a gold coin of James I. was dug 
 up, in fine preservation. A highway called the Law- 
 rence road, thought to be some hundreds of years old, 
 and to have been constructed for the avoidance of the 
 swamps and floods on the lower grounds, and for se- 
 curity against wild beasts, crosses the hill of Culsamond, 
 and was formerly used by persons travelling to St. Law- 
 rence fair, at Old Rain. 
 
 CULTER, a village and parish, in the Upper ward of 
 the county of Lanark, 2^ miles (S. W.) from Biggar; 
 containing, exclusively of Kilbucho, 536 inhabitants, of 
 whom 197 are in the village. This village takes its 
 name from its situation in the rear of the district of 
 which it forms a part. The parish was originally of less 
 extent than it is at present, having in 1*94 been much 
 enlarged by the addition of part of the parish of Kil- 
 bucho, in the adjoining county of Peebles. It is now 
 seven miles in length, and rather less than three in aver- 
 age breadth ; it is bounded on the west by the river 
 Clyde, and comprises 11,547 acres, of which 4000 are 
 259 
 
 arable, 7000 meadow and pasture, and 500 woodland 
 and plantations. The surface is pleasingly undulated, 
 and towards the south rises into hills of considerable 
 eminence, increasing into mountains, the highest of 
 which, called the Fell, has an elevation of more than 
 2300 feet above the sea. The lower part of the parish 
 is diversified with spreading vales and narrow glens. 
 The former are enlivened by the course of the river 
 Clyde, whose banks are ornamented with handsome seats 
 and pleasure-grounds ; and of the latter, the glen of 
 Culter Water, which derives its name from its rivulet, is 
 beautifully picturesque and romantic. The wider por- 
 tion of this glen is richly cultivated and wooded, and 
 the narrower part gradually diminishes till it scarcely 
 affords room for the passage of the stream, which, after 
 flowing through the whole length of the parish, falls 
 into the Clyde a little below the village. At a point 
 called Wolf-Clyde, the river Clyde makes a remarkable 
 curve towards the north-west, approaching very nearly 
 to the bank of the Biggar Water, which runs into the 
 Tweed ; and in high floods, uniting with that stream, a 
 considerable portion of the Clyde waters is carried into 
 the Tweed. 
 
 The soil varies considerably, but is generally dry and 
 fertile. The lower lands consist of a sandy loam, which 
 under good management is very productive ; on the hills 
 the soil is of much lighter qualitj', and on the summits 
 mostly a sterile moss ; towards the eastern part of the 
 parish, on the lands of Kilbucho, it inclines to clay. The 
 hills are of the greywacke formation ; and little variety 
 is found in the substrata, except the occasional occur- 
 rence of conglomerate or pudding-stone. In this parish 
 the system of agriculture has been much improved under 
 the auspices of the chief landed proprietor, who has 
 greatly promoted the plantation of timber, the draining 
 and inclosure of the lands, and the raising of wheat 
 crops, to which previously little attention was paid. 
 The rotation plan of husbandry is now generally preva- 
 lent, and green crops are found to answer well ; the chief 
 produce is oats. Barley and wheat are sparingly pro- 
 duced. The sheep are the short black-faced breed, 
 which are found to be the best adapted to the hilly pas- 
 tures ; the cows are the Ayrshire. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish, exclusively of the Kilbucho 
 portion, is £5231. The plantations are principally of 
 Scotch fir ; but though it thrives well for a few years, it 
 soon falls into decay, and consequently little timber of 
 any growth is produced. At Culterallers, however, 
 are some acres of natural trees, among which are the 
 alder, birch, hazel, mountain-ash, and willow ; and in 
 other parts of the parish are remarkably fine specimens 
 of ancient timber. The mansion-houses, most of which 
 are beautifully situated on the banks of the Clyde, add 
 greatly to the scenery. The village is pleasantly situated 
 on the banks of the Culter Water, along which, at irregu- 
 lar distances, a range of neatly-built houses with inter- 
 vening trees of fine growth, extends for a considerable 
 way. It is intersected by the turnpike-road from Dum- 
 fries to Edinburgh, which is carried over the stream by 
 a neat bridge of modern erection. 
 
 The parish, which is of some antiquity, belonged in 
 the reign of David II. to Walter Byset, who held the 
 half barony of Culter of the king in capitc, and in 1367 
 granted the lands, with the advowson of the church, ex- 
 cepting only the lands of Nisbet, to William Newbiggin 
 
 2 L 2
 
 CULT 
 
 CULT 
 
 of Dunsyre. They subsequently came into the possession 
 of WiUiani, Earl of Douglas, by whose descendant, James, 
 they were in 1455 forfeited to the crown. Sir David 
 Meuzies, who afterwards obtained possession of the half 
 barony, gave the lands of Wolf-Clyde to the abbey of 
 Melrose, and they now pay annually a small sum to the 
 Duke of Buccleuch as lord of that manor. For ecclesi- 
 astical purposes the parish is in the presbytery of Biggar, 
 synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and in the patronage 
 of the families of Baillie of Lammingtoune, and Dickson 
 of Kilbucho, alternately. The minister's stipend is £217, 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £30. 12. per annum. 
 Culter church, erected in ISIO, a plain edifice beautifully 
 situated, commodious, and accessible to the parishioners, 
 is adapted to a congregation of nearly 400 persons. A 
 place of worship has been erected in connexion with the 
 Free Church. The parochial school affords education to 
 all the children of the parish except those of the part 
 formerly in the parish of Kilbucho, the original school 
 of which is still retained ; the salary of the master of 
 Culter school is £34, with £20 fees, and a dwelling-house 
 and garden. 
 
 Remains exist of four circular encampments, which 
 seem to have been formed for the protection of the in- 
 habitants, and the security of their cattle, during the 
 periods of the border warfare. There are also two circu- 
 lar moats, one at Wolf-Clyde and one at Bamflat, which 
 appear to have been raised as signal stations ; and along 
 the vale between the Clyde and the Tweed is a continu- 
 ous chain of similar mounds, most probably employed 
 for the same purpose. About half a mile from the lands 
 of Nisbet, is an oval mound in the midst of a deep 
 raorass ; the longer diameter is about forty yards, the 
 shorter about thirty, and the mound rises above the 
 surface to the height of nearly three feet. It is called 
 the Green Knowe, and consists of heaps of loose stones, 
 compacted together by stakes of hard oak, sharpened at 
 the points and driven into the ground. Around the 
 base is a causeway of larger stones ; and the whole is 
 surrounded by a soft elastic moss, impervious to the 
 approach of an enemy. The mound has for many years 
 been used as a quarry. 
 
 CULTS, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county 
 of Fife ; including the village of Pitlessie, and the 
 hamlets of Crossgates, Cults-Mill, Hospital-Mill, and 
 Walton ; and containing 889 inhabitants, of whom 36 
 are in the hamlet of Cults-Mill, 4 miles (S. S. W.) from 
 Cupar. This parish, the name of which (in ancient 
 documents Quilts or Qiiilques) is of Celtic origin, and 
 supposed to be descriptive of its situation, lies nearly in 
 the centre of the county, and is about two miles and a 
 quarter in length, and one mile and a half in breadth. 
 It comprises 2250 acres, of which 1900 are under culti- 
 vation, 140 in meadow and pasture, 115 woodland and 
 plantations, thirty-five acres garden, and about sixty in 
 roads, fences, and waste. The surface, though for 
 the greater part flat, is diversified with hills, of which 
 the chief in height is that of Walton, near the south- 
 eastern boundary of the parish ; and from some of the 
 hills are fine views over the rich valley of Strath-Eden, 
 embracing the Lomond heights in the distance. The 
 scenery is in some places embellished with wood, and in 
 others enlivened by the course of the river Eden, which 
 is joined on the west side of the parish by the Ballomill 
 burn. 
 
 260 
 
 The SOIL varies considerably in quality. In some 
 parts it is light and sandy ; in others, a rich black loam 
 about twelve inches in depth ; and on the higher grounds, 
 a strong clay which under good management produces 
 excellent crops. The system of agriculture is vastly im- 
 proved ; the surface has been rendered more productive 
 by draining, and considerable progress has been made in 
 the inclosure of the lands : all the recent improvements 
 in farming have been introduced. The crops are, grain 
 of all kinds in abundance, turnips, and potatoes. Few 
 sheep are either reared or fed ; what there are, are 
 generally of the Cheviot breed : the cattle, to the im- 
 provement of which much attention is paid, are of the 
 Fifeshire breed. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £3208. The substrata comprise yellow 
 sandstone, limestone, and in some places coal ; the hills, 
 towards their summits, are generally trap or whinstone, 
 partly of amygdaloid, and partly of greenstone. Lime- 
 stone is procured in abundance from quarries on the 
 Pitlessie hill ; the principal vein is about fourteen feet 
 in thickness, and of a blue colour, and above it is another 
 stratum two feet thick. Both, when wrought, produce 
 lime of excellent quality, of which 30,000 bolls are an- 
 nually burnt, the greater part whereof is shipped at New- 
 burgh for Dundee and Perth, and the remainder used in 
 the parish and adjacent districts. Coal was formerly 
 worked, of which there were pits on the southern decli- 
 vity of the Pitlessie hill ; the seams are superincumbent 
 on the strata of limestone, and one of them is about 
 twelve inches in thickness. There are several quarries 
 of freestone of good quality, affording an abundant sup- 
 ply for building and other purposes ; and boulder lime- 
 stone is also procured for mending the roads. The only 
 house of any importance is Crawfurd Priory, a handsome 
 castellated mansion, erected by Lady Mary Lindsay 
 Crawfurd in 1813, when the ancient family seat in the 
 adjoining parish of Ceres, having become dilapidated, 
 was abandoned. The Earl of Glasgow is now proprietor 
 of the whole parish with the exception of one farm, hav- 
 ing a short time ago purchased the Pitlessie estate. 
 
 The weaving of linen affords employment to about 165 
 persons, of whom nearly one-half are females ; the num- 
 ber of the webs produced, which are 140 j'ards in length 
 and thirty inches wide, may be reckoned to average 
 1800 per annum. The linen chiefly woven is dowlas, 
 for the manufacturers of Kettle, Leslie, and Newburgh, 
 who furnish the materials. The spinning of tow is also 
 carried on at Hospital- Mill, where an old corn and flax 
 mill has been converted to this purpose ; the machinery 
 is propelled by a water-wheel of fourteen-horse power, 
 and the quantity of yarn spun annually is from 175 to 
 190 tons, sent principally to Dundee. This work affords 
 employment to about fifty persons, the greater number 
 of whom are women and children. There are also mills 
 for flour, barley, malt, and oatmeal. The high road from 
 Edinburgh to Dundee passes through the parish. An 
 annual fair is held for the sale of agricultural stock and 
 implements of husbandry, on the second Tuesday in 
 May (O. S.), and is numerously attended. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally the parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, synod of 
 Fife, and in the patronage of the United College of St. 
 Andrew's ; the minister's stipend is £162, with a manse, 
 an arable glebe valued at £13 per annum, an allowance 
 of £8 for a grass glebe, and £* for communion elements. 
 Cults church, which is situated about a mile from the
 
 C U M B 
 
 CUMB 
 
 village, and nearly in the centre of the parish, is a neat 
 plain edifice, erected in 1793. It contains a handsome 
 monument in marble, by Chantrey, erected by Sir David 
 Wilkie to the memory of his parents ; and a monument 
 erected by Miss Helen Wilkie (now married to Dr. Wil- 
 liam Hunter, of the Coldstream guards) to the memory 
 of her distinguished brother : this latter consists of a 
 medallion likeness of Sir David, of considerable size, 
 executed by Mr. Joseph, sculptor, from the same block 
 of marble as the statue in the British Museum. There 
 is likewise a timepiece iu the front gallery, made by 
 Thomson of London, a present from Miss Wilkie. Here 
 is a place of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod. 
 The parochial school affords education to about 100 
 children ; the master has a salary of £34, with about 
 £30 fees, and a good house and garden. On the sides 
 of Walton Hill are several ramparts, supposed to have 
 been a Roman encampment ; and urns and other relics 
 have been discovered on and near the spot. Sir David 
 Wilkie, the eminent painter, was born in the manse on 
 the ISth November, \'Hj, while his father, the Rev. 
 David Wilkie, was incumbent. The latter was the au- 
 thor of a treatise on the Theory of Interest and Annui- 
 ties ; the former, who had been appointed limner for 
 Scotland to George IV., was knighted by his Majesty 
 William IV. in 1836, and died in 1S41, leaving an im- 
 perishable name. Dr. Thomas Gillespie, professor of hu- 
 manity in the university of St. Andrew's, and author of 
 sermons on The Seasons contemplated in the Spirit of the 
 Gospel, was for fifteen years incumbent of the parish of 
 Cults. 
 
 CUMBERNAULD, a parish, in the county of Dum- 
 barton ; including the village of Condorat, and con- 
 taining about 3500 inhabitants, of whom part reside in 
 the village of Cumbernauld, 10 miles (W. S. W.) from 
 Falkirk. This place derives its name of Cumbernauld 
 from a Celtic term signifying a confluence of streams, in 
 reference to the junction of several small streams just 
 below the village. It originally formed a part of Kirkin- 
 tilloch, or Leinzie, parish, and was disjoined from it in 
 1649, and erected into a distinct parish, called Ea.ster 
 Leinzie, or Cumbernauld, as distinguished from Wester 
 Leinzie, or Kirkintilloch : the name of Leinzie has been 
 long disused. The Roman wall called Graham's Dyke, 
 with other ancient relics, connects its history with that 
 of the Roman invaders, but nothing is recorded to sup- 
 ply us with any particulars concerning their proceedings 
 in these parts. There was formerly a castle here, and 
 at the close of the thirteenth century the castle and ba- 
 rony belonged to John Cumyn, Earl of Buchan ; but 
 they afterwards fell to the crown by the forfeiture of 
 that nobleman. In the fourteenth century they passed 
 to the Flemings, of Biggar and Cumbernauld, who were 
 subsequently created Earls of Wigtown, and rose to con- 
 siderable importance in the transactions of Scottish his- 
 tory. The barony formerly belonged to Stirlingshire ; 
 but in the reign of David II., Malcolm Fleming, sheriff 
 of Dumbarton, obtained its annexation to Dumbarton- 
 shire, and the disjunction of several parishes from Dum- 
 barton, and their annexation to Stirling. This arrange- 
 ment was afterwards disturbed by an act of parliament, 
 in 1503 ; but the act was repealed, and the settlement 
 effected by Malcolm Fleming permanently established. 
 
 The PARISH is situated at the eastern extremity of the 
 shire, and is about eight miles long and from three to 
 261 
 
 four broad, containing about 11,5'20 acres. Its surface 
 is diversified by a succession of ridges and slopes, and 
 the whole sweep being very considerably above the level 
 of the sea, the climate is sharp and cold. The highest 
 part, called Fannyside-muir, is a deep moss covered with 
 heath, where grouse and black-cock are found ; the re- 
 mainder of the surface is arable and wood, among which 
 game of all kinds is abundant, and in spring tlie roe- 
 buck is frequently to be seen, and sometimes the squirrel. 
 The stream of the Luggie divides the parish from New- 
 Monkland, Lanarkshire, and that of the Kelvin from 
 Kilsyth, Stirlingshire ; but they are both of inconsider- 
 able size. They formerly abounded in good fish, but a 
 few trout only are now to be found. The lakes, which 
 were numerous, have been drained, and converted into 
 arable land : the only remaining one is the loch of Fan- 
 nyside, which covers about seventy acres, and is but a 
 few feet deep ; pike and perch are taken in it, and it 
 is visited by flocks of wild-duck and teal. The soil is 
 chiefly a deep clayey loam, tolerably fertile; about 7770 
 acres are arable, 2700 pasture and moss, 730 in plantations 
 and woods, and the rest roads and water. Within the 
 last thirty years, many improvements have taken place 
 in husbandry by draining and levelling, the use of lime 
 and good dung-manure, and the introduction of green 
 crops. The breed of cows and horses has lately been 
 much attended to ; the dairy-farms are very superior, 
 and their chief produce is butter, which is sold at Fal- 
 kirk and Glasgow. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £15,430. 
 
 The subsoil is an impervious till, much of which has 
 been advantageously drained. The rocks are whinstone 
 and trap, which mainly compose those numerous ridges 
 whereby the surface is marked. Freestone and lime- 
 stone are found in large quantities, and a quarry of the 
 former is wrought at Netherwood, near the Forth and 
 Clyde canal ; where also, as well as at Cumbernauld, 
 limestone of excellent quality is obtained. The free- 
 stone is chiefly used in building. Coal is found in seve- 
 ral places, especially near the freestone-quarry at the 
 Hirst ; and on the farm of Westerwood is a mine of 
 ironstone, let to the Carron Company. The mansion 
 of Cumbernauld, the ancient seat of the Flemings, is sur- 
 rounded by fine plantations, some of the trees of which 
 are holly of a large size and imposing appearance. Here 
 and in many other parts, oak, ash, lime, chesnut, elm, 
 beech, and plane diversify the scenery, and are in a flou- 
 rishing condition. The village of Cumbernauld, which 
 contains nearly one-half the population of the parish, 
 was created a burgh of barony in 1649 ; it has a fair in 
 May, at which there is a considerable traflic in cattle. 
 About one-fifth of the population is employed in cotton- 
 weaving, 560 looms being at work in the parish ; but 
 during the fluctuations to which the trade is exposed, 
 many of the hands obtain support by labouring in the 
 coal and iron mines. There is a post-office under Glas- 
 gow ; and the mail by Crieff, and coaches to Perth, 
 Edinburgh, Alloa, and Stirling, formerly passed daily to 
 and from Glasgow. Great facility of intercourse is now 
 afforded by the Edinburgh and Glasgow and the Cale- 
 donian railways. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Glasgow, synod of Glas- 
 gow and Ayr. The minister's stipend is under £"230, 
 and John Elphinstone Fleming, Esq., is patron : there is
 
 CUMB 
 
 C U M B 
 
 a manse, built in IS'JT, with a glebe valued at £17. 10. 
 per annum. Cumbernaukl church is situated in the 
 village, in the centre of the parish, and is an old, incon- 
 venient, and uncomfortable building ; it contains 650 
 sittings. There are also places of worship for members 
 of the Free Church and the United Presbyterian Synod. 
 A parochial school is held, the master of which has 
 a salary of £25, with house and garden, and £26 fees. 
 The village has a good subscription library, consisting of 
 1200 volumes; a savings' bank, established in 1815; 
 and a society of masons. The late Viscount Keith be- 
 queathed £90, the interest to be divided among the poor 
 on the 1st of January. The chief relic of antiquity is 
 Graham's Dyke, part of which runs through the parish. 
 Traces of an old Roman road may be seen in the moss 
 of Fannyside ; and in the vicinity of Cumbernauld House 
 is an elevation called the Towe Hill, where in ancient 
 times the feudal baron held his court. In the formation 
 of the Forth and Clyde canal, which runs through the 
 bog of Dullatur, many warlike instruments were found, 
 with the bodies of men, among which was a trooper, 
 completely armed, and sitting upright on horseback, ex- 
 actly in the position in which he had perished. He is 
 thought to have belonged to Baillie's army, when that 
 general fought the INIarquess of Montrose, 1 5th of August, 
 1645 ; and in his flight is supposed to have ridden acci- 
 dentally into the bog. 
 
 CUMBRAY, GREAT, an island and parish, in the 
 county of Bute, 2 miles (W.) from Largs ; including the 
 villages of Millport and Newton, and containing in sum- 
 mer about 1400, and in winter about 1000, inhabitants. 
 Its name is derived from a Gaelic term signifying a bold 
 or steep coast rising abruptly from the sea, and this de- 
 scription corresponds with the natural appearance of the 
 island, which presents a steep and precipitous coast all 
 round. The isle is supposed formerly to have been in 
 the possession of the Nor«'egians, concerning whose oc- 
 cupancy, however, no particulars are known. They are 
 said to have been dispossessed of the territory after many 
 successive encounters with the Scots, by the decisive 
 battle of Largs, when they were completely routed and 
 driven from the coast. A cathedral once stood here, 
 which was dedicated to St. Columba, but no remains of 
 it are now visible. The island was formerly distributed 
 into a number of small baronies, the owners of the prin- 
 cipal of which were the families of Hunter, Stuart, and 
 Montgomerie. The barony of Kames, belonging to the 
 Hunters, has given name to one of the finest baj's in the 
 island, and on this property, also, stood the village of 
 Kames, some vestiges of which may still be traced. 
 Ballykellet, which appears to have been the most consi- 
 derable of all the baronies, belonged to the Montgomeries, 
 who possessed the patronage of the parish, and part of 
 whose mansion-house was until lately standing, having 
 in it a stone with the family arms sculptured. 
 
 The island is of very irregular figure, extending about 
 three miles and a half in length, from north-east to 
 south-west, and about two miles in breadth : its circum- 
 ference is ten miles, comprehending an area of 5120 
 acres. It is situated on the Firth of Clyde, and is sepa- 
 rated from Little Cumbray, on the south, by a strait 
 three-quarters of a mile in breadth ; from Ayrshire, on 
 the east, by Fairley Road, about one mile and a half 
 broad ; and from the isle of Bute, on the west, by a part 
 of the Firth, which is about four miles wide. Numerous 
 262 
 
 hills rise, with a gradual ascent, from the extremities of 
 the island to its centre, and merge in one continuous 
 range called the Shough-ends, which runs from north 
 to south nearly throughout the whole length of the 
 island ; it attains an elevation of about 500 feet above 
 the sea, and commands one of the most beautiful views 
 on the coast of Scotland. The shores and bays abound 
 with fish of various kinds, and oysters are found in 
 some parts. A stream of inconsiderable dimensions, 
 taking its rise from two small lochs that communicate 
 with each other, in the highest part of the island, re- 
 ceives the waters of several springs, and at length be- 
 comes sufficiently large to form a mill-dam, which the 
 people use for grinding their corn. The soil varies in 
 different places. On the coast it is light and sandy, 
 lying on rock or clay ; on the higher grounds it is gra- 
 velly and thin, tending to moss, bedded on rock and 
 covered with heath ; in some of the valleys it is a deep 
 rich loam, incumbent on clay, and producing good crops. 
 About 3000 acres are arable ; upwards of 1400 are 
 waste, a considerable part of which, however, affords 
 pasture for cattle ; thirty acres are common, and 120 
 are planted. Grain and green crops of all kinds are pro- 
 duced ; the cattle are of the pure Ayrshire breed. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is returned 
 at £1845. 
 
 The rocks consist of several varieties of whinstone, of 
 limestone, and sandstone. The limestone is not wrought, 
 on account of the expense of fuel ; but the sandstone, 
 which is plentiful, is wrought by about six men : during 
 the formation of the Ayrshire railway, about eighty men 
 were employed in quarrying for the purposes of that 
 undertaking. There is a regular communication with 
 the land by steam-boats, and the island is much re- 
 sorted to by strangers in the summer season. Eccle- 
 siastically the parish is in the presbytery of Greenock, 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; patron, the Earl of Glasgow. 
 The stipend is £159, and there is a good manse, with a 
 glebe of six acres, valued at £8. 10. per annum. Cum- 
 bray church, which was built in 183" to meet the exi- 
 gences of a largely augmented population, is situated on 
 rising ground, immediately behind the village of Mill- 
 port ; it is a commodious and elegant structure, orna- 
 mented with a handsome tower, and capable of accom- 
 modating 750 persons. A place of worship has been 
 erected for Baptists ; likewise a Free church. There is 
 a parochial school, where, in addition to the usual 
 branches, Latin, mensuration, and navigation are taught; 
 the master has the legal accommodations, and a salary 
 of £30, with £15 from fees. A parochial library is sup- 
 ported, and also a library in connexion with the parish 
 church. 
 
 CUMBRAY, LITTLE, an island, in the county of 
 Bute, ecclesiastically annexed to the parish of West 
 Kilbride, in the county of Ayr, and containing 8 inha- 
 bitants. This island is situated in the Firth of Clyde, 
 between the island of Bute and the promontory of Port- 
 incross, from each of which it is distant aboot two miles 
 and a half. Little Cumbray anciently formed part of 
 the domains of the Stuart family, ancestors of the kings 
 of that line ; and, on the erection of the principality of 
 Scotland, by Robert HI., in 1404, in favour of his son, 
 was included within its limits. It was for many years 
 retained as a royal preserve, and in 1515 was conferred 
 upon Hew, Earl of Eglinton, whose descendants are its
 
 C U M I 
 
 CUMM 
 
 present proprietors. The island is composed entirely 
 of trap-rock, resting on the sandstone formation of the 
 opposite coast ; it is about a mile long and half a mile 
 in breadth, and has an elevation of 600 feet above the 
 sea. The surface comprises about 700 acres ; but with 
 the exception of a few potato-gardens, it does not ap- 
 pear to have been cultivated. There are a few ash-trees 
 growing near the south-east extremity, but it is otherwise 
 perfectly destitute of wood, and the rocky pasture only 
 affords food for a few sheep and young cattle; the island 
 is, indeed, chiefly a rabbit-warren at present, and about 
 500 dozens of rabbits are taken annually on the average, 
 and sent for the supply of the neighbouring markets. 
 Nearly in the centre is a circular tower, thirty feet in 
 height, once appropriated as a lighthouse, and still 
 forming a very conspicuous object from all parts of the 
 chanuel ; it has long been neglected, and a lighthouse 
 has been built upon the edge of a precipice overhanging 
 the sea, on the west side of the island. This newer 
 building, with the keeper's house and garden, romanti- 
 cally contrasting with the rugged crags among which it 
 is situated, has a truly picturesque appearance : it is 
 twenty-eight feet in height, and shews a clear fixed light 
 to the distance of fifteen miles in fair weather. In the 
 southern extremity of the island are several natural ca- 
 verns, formed by fissures in the rock ; the largest, on 
 the east side, is called the King's Cave. 
 
 Near the old lighthouse are the remains of an ancient 
 square fort, the walls of which, six feet in thickness, 
 thirty-five feet in height, and nearly entire, inclose an 
 area twenty-eight feet in length and fifteen feet wide, 
 formed into two apartments, the lower of which has a 
 vaulted stone roof. By whom, or at what time, it was 
 erected is not known ; but being in the possession of the 
 Montgomerie family at the period of Cromwell's invasion 
 of Scotland, it was surprised and burnt by his soldiers. 
 To the north of the castle are the remains of an ancient 
 chapel dedicated to St. Vey, who was buried here, in a 
 tomb a little to the north of the chapel. These remains 
 consist chiefly of portions of the walls of the chapel, 
 which appears to have been a dependency of the monas- 
 tery of lona ; the walls are about three feet in thickness, 
 and rudely built, inclosing an area thirty feet in length 
 and fifteen in width. Of the tomb, which seems to have 
 been comprised within four walls of stone, two square 
 stones only are left, one of which is broken into two 
 pieces ; they are ornamented with tracery, but no in- 
 scription of any kind is to be discovered. At Shan- 
 willy point, on the north of the island, are several tumuli, 
 some of which were opened a few years before his death 
 by the late Earl of Eglinton, when sepulchral urns and 
 various fragments of weapons were found. 
 
 CUMINESTOWN, a village, in the parish of Mon- 
 QUHiTTER, district of Turriff, county of Aberdeen, 
 6 miles (E. by N.) from TurrifiF; containing 477 inhabit- 
 ants. This place took its name from Joseph Cumine, 
 Esq., an enterprising landowner, who founded it about 
 the middle of the last century. The present proprietor 
 of Auchry, who purchased the mansion and principal 
 part of the estate from Mr. Cumine's family in 1830, 
 has actively pursued the plans partially carried out by 
 the Cumines, for the improvement of his property in 
 the parish, and the promotion of the agricultural interest. 
 A post-office has been established in the village. — See 
 
 MoNaUHITTER. 
 
 263 
 
 CUMMERTREES, a parish, in the county of Dum- 
 fries ; including the village of Powfoot, and containing 
 1277 inhabitants, of whom 124 are in the village of 
 Cummertrees, 4 miles (W.) from Annan. The parish 
 is supposed to have derived its name, anciently written 
 Cumbertrcs, from its having been formerly covered with 
 timber, considerable tracts of which still remain, besides 
 subterraneous forests of oak, fir, and birch, with which 
 the mosses are every where filled. It is remarkable as 
 containing the farm of Bruce, in which there is a field 
 called Broom Acres, where it is said that Robert Bruce, 
 through the treachery of a blacksmith, sustained a severe 
 repulse from the English. The inhabitants of Priest- 
 side, a district partly in Cummertrees and partly in 
 Ruth well, along the Sol way Firth, hold a charter from 
 Robert Bruce to make salt duty-free, said to have been 
 granted on account of their hospitality to Bruce after 
 the above repulse ; and they continued to reap the 
 benefit of the charter, until the removal of the salt-duty 
 in the reign of George IV. It may also be mentioned 
 that there is a descendant of the butler of Robert Bruce, 
 Matthew Wilson, still farming at Cockpool, in the parish 
 of Ruthwell, under the Earl of Mansfield. The most 
 conspicuous family with which the ancient history of 
 Cummertrees stands connected, is that of Ilerries. Their 
 residence of Hoddam Castle, which is situated on the 
 south bank of the river Annan, is said to have been 
 built with the stones of a more ancient castle of the 
 same name, between the years 14.37 and 1484, by John, 
 Lord Herries, of Herries. The older castle had been 
 inhabited, in the beginning of the fourteenth century, by 
 a branch of the family of Robert Bruce, and destroyed 
 some time afterwards by a border law. The family of 
 Herries was very powerful, and acquired a large extent 
 of country ; but about the year 1627, the barony of Hod- 
 dam was obtained by Sir Richard Murray of Cockpool. 
 
 The PARISH comprehends the ancient chapelry of 
 Trailtrow, which was annexed to it at the Reformation ; 
 and is about seven miles in extreme length, and four 
 in extreme breadth, containing about 10,000 acres. It 
 is bounded by the Solway Firth on the south, on the 
 east by Annan, on the north by Hoddam, and on the 
 west by Ruthwell and Dalton. A part of the surface is 
 level, forming an inclined plane which rises gently from 
 the south towards the north, the highest point being 
 not more than 200 feet above the sea ; but after this 
 there is a descent, from the Tower of Repentance to the 
 river Annan, which is somewhat rapid. The coast is 
 flat, sandy, and uninteresting. Salmon, sea-trout, floun- 
 ders, codlings, and occasionally turbot and soles, are 
 taken in the Solway, and considerable quantities of 
 cockles and muscles along its shores : in the Annan 
 river salmon, common trout, and herling are plentiful. 
 The soil in some places is sandy, and in others gravelly ; 
 in a few instances deep rich loam is met with : but in 
 general the soil is a thin wet clay, resting upon a hard 
 tilly subsoil, and requiring much skill to render it pro- 
 ductive. About 6000 acres are occasionally under til- 
 lage, and 800 are moss, of which 300 are capable of culti- 
 vation; about 1000 acres are occupied by wood, consisting 
 chiefly of plantations. The crops are nearly the same 
 as in other parishes where the modern improvements in 
 husbandry have been introduced. Cattle are reared in 
 large numbers ; the few sheep kept are generally a cross 
 between the Cheviots and South-Downs. Many liun-
 
 C U M N 
 
 C U M N 
 
 dreds of acres that were waste thirty or forty years ago, 
 are now in flourishing plantations, or under cultivation, 
 and inclosed with good hedges ; indeed, the successful 
 application of the best system of husbandry has entirely 
 altered the face of the parish within the present century. 
 The rocks consist of limestone and sandstone, the 
 former of which, quarried at Kelbead, is celebrated as 
 among the finest in the country, and brings an annual 
 revenue of about £1000 ; there are also two sandstone- 
 quarries. The annual value of real property in the pa- 
 rish is £6022. 
 
 The most interesting residence is the ancient castle 
 of Hoddam, remarkable for its strength and the thickness 
 of its walls, and which has received several additions from 
 its respective proprietors, of whom the late proprietor. 
 General Sharpe, built a large wing, in keeping with the 
 other parts of the edifice. The parish also contains the 
 modern mansion of Kinmount House, built by the Mar- 
 quess of Queensberry, at a cost of £40,000. The turn- 
 pike-road from Portpatrick to Carlisle, and the old 
 Dumfries and Annan road, intersect the parish ; as also 
 does the Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle railway, which 
 has a station here. Cummertrees is included within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Annan, synod of Dumfries : 
 patron, the Crown. The minister's stipend, including 
 a government grant of £37, is £1.58, and there is a 
 manse, with a glebe of the annual value of £18. The 
 church, which was founded by Robert Bruce, has fre- 
 quently been rebuilt and enlarged, the last time about 
 sixty years since, and contains 550 sittings. There is a 
 jjarochial school, in which, besides the ordinary branches, 
 the classics, geography, and navigation are taught ; the 
 master has a salary of £30, with £25 fees, besides 
 house and garden, three-quarters of an acre of land, and 
 £10 other emoluments. In the north-east district of 
 the parish is another school, the teacher of which has a 
 salary of about eight guineas, and £16 other emoluments. 
 Among the relics of antiquity is the Tower of Repent- 
 ance, said to have been built in the fifteenth century by 
 Lord Herries, who, having used the stones of an old 
 chapel in building Hoddam Castle, of which he afterwards 
 repented, erected this tower to pacify his conscience, and 
 to make his peace with the Bishop of Glasgow, diocesan 
 of the chapel. It is twenty-five feet high, and stands 
 on an eminence, which is seen at a distance of thirty 
 miles on all sides. 
 
 CUMMINGSTON, a village, in the parish of Duf- 
 Fus, county of Elgin ; containing 155 inhabitants. This 
 l)lace is situated on the coast of the Moray Firth, a 
 short distance for Burgh-Head, which is the post-town. 
 It is chiefly inhabited by seamen, and the families of 
 persons dependent on the fisheries of the district. 
 
 CUMNOCK, NEW, a parish, in the district of 
 Kyle, county of Ayr, 6 miles (S. E. by S.) from Old 
 Cumnock ; containing, with the villages of Castle, Path- 
 bead, Mansfield, and Afton-Bridgend, 2382 inhabitants. 
 This parish, which was separated from that of Cumnock 
 in the year 1650, is situated at the south-east extremity 
 of the county. It is about twelve miles in length from 
 east to west, and nine in breadth from north to south, 
 and comprises about "5,000 acres, whereof 15,000 are 
 arable, 300 woodland and plantations, and the remain- 
 der, of which about 3000 acres might be reclaimed and 
 brought into cultivation, is a very elevated tract of moss. 
 The surface is in general hilly, and towards the south 
 264 
 
 mountainous, but is varied with the two fine valleys of 
 the Nith and the Afton. Of these, the former extends 
 through nearly the whole length of the parish, having a 
 mean elevation of about 500 feet above the sea ; and 
 the latter valley, which is about fifty feet higher, inter- 
 sects the parish from north to south. The highest of the 
 mountains, called Blackcraig, has an elevation of 1600 
 feet ; the Knipe, a little to the south, has an elevation of 
 1260 feet, and the Corsancone is 8*0 feet above the level 
 of the river Nith. From all these heights extensive views 
 are obtained of the surrounding districts, and the pros- 
 pect from the Corsancone is singularly rich and beautiful. 
 The river Nith rises in the south-west of the parish, and 
 after a course of about twelve miles, flows by the base of 
 Corsancone Hill, into the Dumfriesshire parish of Kirk- 
 connell. The river Afton rises near the southern boun- 
 dary of the parish, and after a course of about eight miles, 
 falls into the Nith near the village. The surface is fur- 
 ther diversified by three lakes, little more than half a 
 mile in circumference ; they are of no great depth, but 
 abound with perch and pike, and are frequented by va- 
 rieties of aquatic fowl. 
 
 In some parts the soil is of a light gravelly quality, 
 and in others a tenacious clay ; but by judicious manage- 
 ment and a liberal use of lime, it has been much improved, 
 and a tolerable quantity of unproductive land has been 
 brought into profitable cultivation. The crops are oats, 
 barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips. Surface-draining 
 is rapidly growing into practice, and all the more recent 
 improvements in husbandry, and in implements of agri- 
 culture, have been adopted. Considerable care is be- 
 stowed on the management of live stock. About 3500 
 cows are pastured on the various farms, nearly half of 
 which number are milch-cows, and the value of cheese and 
 butter annually produced is estimated at above £7000. 
 More than 20,000 sheep are fed on the mountain pastures. 
 There is very little wood in the parish ; the plantations 
 are chiefly larch and spruce fir, for which the soil appears 
 to be very favourable, and some larches planted on the 
 banks of the Afton have attained a very stately growth. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £14,117. 
 The SUBSTRATA are carboniferous limestone, coal, sand- 
 stone, and ironstone, and the hills of transition rock and 
 greywacke. The limestone is found in abundance in 
 many parts, occurring in beds of great thickness : it is 
 of excellent quality, and the lime is much used for 
 cement, from its property of acquiring hardness under 
 water ; there are several kilns on improved principles, 
 for burning the limestone, and the produce annually is 
 averaged at 200,000 bushels. The coal is likewise very 
 abundant, and of good quality ; the quantity annually 
 raised is about 10,000 tons. In the coalfield at Craig- 
 man, plumbago is found in irregular masses, embedded 
 in basalt, and has been wrought for a long time. The 
 sandstone is generally of a yellowish-white tint, but of 
 coarse texture, and contains various fossil impressions ; 
 the ironstone occurs in detached masses and veins in 
 several parts of the coal formation, but has not yet been 
 worked. The villages are chiefly inhabited by persons 
 employed in agriculture and in the mines and quarries; 
 there is a post-office under that of Old Cumnock, and a 
 library which has a collection of more than a thousand 
 volumes is supported by subscription. A fair for cattle 
 is held on the Thursday before 'Whitsunday, and consi- 
 derable business is transacted at it.
 
 C U M N 
 
 C U M N 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is in the presby- 
 tery of Ayr, synod of Ayr and Glasgow, and in the 
 patronage of the Marquesses of Bute. The minister's 
 stipend is about £'212, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £24 per annum. The church, which is situated be- 
 tween the villages of New Cumnock and Afton-Bridgend, 
 is an elegant and substantial structure in the later English 
 style, erected in 1834 by the heritors, and adapted for 
 1000 persons. There are places of worship for members 
 of the Free Church and Reformed Presbyterians. The 
 parochial school affords education to about 100 scholars ; 
 the master has a salary of £34, with £.'jO fees, and a 
 bouse and garden. On the summit of a knoll are some 
 traces of the ancient castle of Blackbog, of which all the 
 masonry has been removed to furnish materials for 
 building, but of which the fosse may be still distinctly 
 seen. This castle was at one time the residence of the 
 Dunbars of Mochrum, and was frequently visited by Sir 
 William Wallace. On the lands of Sir John Cathcart 
 are also the ruins of an ancient baronial castle, near the 
 source of the river Nith. Upon the farm of Whitehill, 
 an earthen jar was dug up a few years since, containing 
 a great number of small silver coins of Edward I. of 
 England and Alexander of Scotland ; they were all in 
 excellent preservation, and about the size of a groat. On 
 the farm of Polquhaise, a tumulus was lately removed, 
 in which a sarcophagus of large stones was found, con- 
 taining fragments of human bones and a small quantity 
 of black earth. 
 
 CUMNOCK, OLD, a manufacturing town and a pa- 
 rish, in the district of Kyle, county of Ayr, 10^ miles 
 (S. W.) from Muirkirk, and 61 (S. W. by W.) from Edin- 
 burgh ; containing 2S36 inhabitants, of whom two-fifths 
 are in the town. This place derives its name of Cumnock 
 from its situation in the bosom of a hill, and its adjunct 
 Old by way of distinction from that part of the parish 
 which, more than a century since, was erected into a 
 separate parish. The town appears to owe its origin to 
 a charter granted to Sir Thomas Campbell, prebendary 
 of Cumnock, by James IV., making the church lands a 
 free burgh of barony, and empowering him and his suc- 
 cessors to let the glebe, in burgage tenure, for building. 
 After passing through several hands, the barony came 
 ultimately, in the reign of Charles II., into the possession 
 of the Earl of Dumfries, and is now the property of the 
 Stuart family. Marquesses of Bute. The town is beau- 
 tifully situated in a deep recess, at the confluence of the 
 rivers Glasnock and Lugar, and consists chiefly of three 
 streets, and a spacious quadrangular area now the mar- 
 ket-place, the sides of which form ranges of good houses, 
 and in the centre of which is the church. The houses 
 are regularly built, with the exception of those in some 
 narrow lanes, which are of inferior order. The whole 
 has an air of cheerful neatness ; and, combined with the 
 interesting banks of the Lugar, and the rich woodlands 
 immediately surrounding, it presents a pleasing appear- 
 ance. Gas-works have been constructed for lighting the 
 town ; and there are two public libraries supported by 
 subscription, each of which has an extensive and well- 
 selected number of volumes. A post-office is also esta- 
 blished. 
 
 The manufacture of wooden snuff-boxes resembling 
 
 those originally made at Laurencekirk, is extensively 
 
 carried on here, and has been brought to a state of great 
 
 perfection. These boxes are made from the wood of the 
 
 Vol. I.— 265 
 
 plane-tree, as being closest in its texture ; and at the 
 original prices paid for them, a solid foot of wood worth 
 three shillings, could be manufactured into boxes that 
 would sell for £100. From the great reduction in the 
 price since the extension of the manufacture, however, 
 they are sold for less than a tenth part of the original 
 value ; and the painting of the boxes in devices has been 
 nearly superseded by the introduction of chequering.which 
 is performed in great variety by machinery, producing 
 brilliancy of colour and elegance of pattern. The num- 
 ber of persons employed in this manufacture is about 
 fifty. Weaving is carried on for the manufacturers of 
 Glasgow and Paisley, and more than 120 looms are in 
 constant operation ; a considerable number of females, 
 also, are employed in working and embroidering muslins, 
 which are much admired. There is a large manufactory 
 for threshing-mills and cheese- presses, some of the for- 
 mer of which are sent to Ireland ; also a pottery for 
 brown earthenware, for which purpose clay of good qua- 
 lity is found in the parish. Fairs are held on the first 
 and sixth Thursdays after Candlemas, the Wednesday 
 after the last Tuesday in May and first Tuesday in July, 
 and the Wednesday after the third Tuesday in October 
 (O. S.). Great facility of intercourse is afforded by the 
 Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle railway. A baron-bailie 
 is appointed to superintend the jiolice of the town, by 
 the Stuart family. 
 
 The PARISH is about ten miles in length and two in 
 average breadth, and comprises 16,400 acres, of which 
 about 630 are woodland and plantations, 2500 moorland 
 pasture, and the remainder arable. Its surface is pleas- 
 ingly undulated, rising in some parts into hills of gentle 
 elevation • and along the banks of the Lugar are fine 
 tracts of level ground. In this parish the whole of the 
 lands have an elevation of some hundred feet above the 
 sea, but they are finely sheltered by the still higher lands 
 of the district adjoining. The river Lugar, which has 
 its source in the eastern extremity of the parish, is 
 formed by the union of the streams of Glenmore and 
 Bella, and after constituting the northern boundary of 
 the parish, flows with a western course into the river Ayr. 
 Its scenery is boldly varied ; in some parts the banks 
 are richly wooded, whilst in others the stream runs be- 
 tween perpendicular ramparts of barren rock and pro- 
 jecting crags. The river Glasnock issues from a lake on 
 the southern confines of the parish, and after flowing 
 though the town, falls into the Lugar. The lake just 
 referred to abounds with trout, pike, and eels ; trout are 
 found also in the Lugar, and salmon were formerly often 
 taken in its waters, but, since the construction of a dam 
 on the river Ayr, none have ascended so high. The 
 SOIL is chiefly clayey, intermixed with portions of a light 
 and sandy quality, and occasionally a rich loam. The 
 crops grown are oats, with a little wheat, barley, and bear, 
 also potatoes, peas, beans, and turnips ; the system of 
 agriculture is in an advanced state. A great degree of 
 attention is paid to the management of the dairies, and 
 considerable quantities of clieese are made, and sent to 
 the neighbouring markets, where it is much esteemed. 
 About 1000 milch-cows, of the Ayrshire breed, are kept 
 on the several farms ; and the number of sheep, chiefly 
 of the black-faced kind, averages about 1200. The an- 
 nual value of real property in the parish is £9724. The 
 substrata are limestone, coal, and freestone. The lime- 
 stone is of very superior quality ; and the lime, which is 
 
 2 M
 
 CUP A 
 
 C U P A 
 
 distingnished by the appellation of Benston lime, is in 
 great demand tor cement, and, from its property of ac- 
 quiring hardness when under water, is much used in the 
 erection of bridges. The freestone on the banks of the 
 Lugar has a light-blue tint, and is susceptible of a very 
 high polish ; a white freestone is also found, which is in 
 repute for millstones, and sent off in great quantities for 
 exportation. The coal is alternated with strata of trap, 
 but is on the whole of good quality. The woods consist 
 of oak, ash, elm, beech, plane, lime, chesnut, and birch ; 
 and the plantations, of silver, spruce, and Scotch firs, 
 poplar, mountain-ash, holly, and evergreens of almost 
 every variety : many of the trees are of stately growth, 
 and all are in a flourishing condition. Dumfries House, 
 one of the seats of the Stuart family, Marquesses of Bute, 
 is a very spacious and handsome mansion, built of the 
 blue freestone found in the parish, and containing stately 
 apartments ; the walls of the drawing-room are hung 
 with some fine old tapestry, presented to one of the Earls 
 of Dumfries by Louis XIV. of France. This house is 
 beautifully situated on the bank of the Lugar, which 
 flows through the pleasure-grounds, and over which an 
 elegant bridge has been erected near the mansion. Glas- 
 nock House, situated on the bank of the Glasnock, is 
 an elegant mansion of recent erection, built with the 
 white freestone found near the Lugar. Logan and Gar- 
 rallan are likewise good houses. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Ayr, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of 
 the Stuart family. The minister's stipend is £218, with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £'20 per annum. Cum- 
 nock church, erected in 1/54, is adapted for 900 persons : 
 the cemetery has been removed to a rising ground called 
 the Bar Hill, east of the town. There are places of wor- 
 ship for members of the Free Church and the United 
 Presbyterian Synod. The parochial school affords in- 
 struction to about 130 scholars : the master has a salary 
 of £34, with £15 fees, and a house and garden ; he also 
 receives one-half of the interest of a bequest of £1000 by 
 Mr. Duncan, the other half of the interest being distri- 
 buted among poor persons not on the parish list. There 
 is a savings' bank with a fund of about £1000; and 
 three friendly societies are supported. Within the 
 grounds of Dumfries House are the ruins of the ancient 
 castle of Terringzean, ancientlj' the residence of the 
 Loudoun family ; and in the south side of the parish are 
 some slight ruins of Boreland Castle. 
 
 CUNNINGSBURGH, in the county of Shetland. 
 — See Sandwich. 
 
 CUPAR, a burgh, mar- 
 ket-town, and parish, in the 
 district of Cupar, county of 
 Fife; including the villages 
 of Gladney and Springfield, 
 and containing 6758 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 3567 are 
 within the burgh, 9 miles 
 (W.) from St. Andrew's, and 
 32 (N. by E.) from Edin- 
 burgh. This place is of con- 
 siderable antiquity, and was 
 noted at an early period for 
 the strength of its castle, erected at the extremity of a 
 high mound extending along the bank of the Ladyburn 
 rivulet. During their invasion of Scotland in the reign 
 266 
 
 ^ 
 
 Seal and Arms. 
 
 of Edward Baliol, this castle was taken by the English, 
 who retained possession of it till, having exhausted their 
 provisions, and being unable to procure supplies, they 
 were compelled to abandon it, and to return to their 
 own country. There are no remains of the castle, but 
 the site of it is still called Castle Hill. Under this hill 
 was a Dominican convent, the founder of which is not 
 known, and which, after subsisting for a long time as a 
 cell to the monastery of that order on the island of 
 May, was granted to the abbey of St. Andrew's. No 
 vestiges of the building remain, and the site is now 
 occupied by an episcopal chapel. Few events of histo- 
 rical importance are recorded in connexion with the 
 place : the town was erected into a royal burgh by 
 David n., in 1363, and in the Magna Britannia is desig- 
 nated by Camden the Eurgiis Inslgnis, which character 
 it still retains as the county town. 
 
 The TOWN is situated on the high road from Edin- 
 burgh, through Fife, to Dundee, and has a station on 
 the Dundee line of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee 
 railway. It stands at the confluence of the river Eden 
 and the Ladyburn, over the former of which are three 
 handsome bridges, facilitating the intercourse between 
 the north and south portions. From its situation, it is 
 the great thoroughfare between the ferries of the Forth 
 and the Tay, and consequently, in addition to its trade 
 and well-frequented markets, derives much traffic from 
 the frequent influx of strangers. It is well built, and 
 consists of several principal streets, some of which are 
 of recent formation, originating in the modern improve- 
 ments of the town, and of several smaller streets ; they 
 are cleansed, paved, and watched from the common 
 funds of the corporation, and lighted with gas by assess- 
 ment upon the inhabitants under the Police act. The 
 town has been considerably enlarged by the addition of 
 the suburbs of Brae-Heads, Newtown, and Lebanon ; 
 and the whole has a cheerful and very respectable ap- 
 pearance. A public library has long been established, 
 and is supported by subscription ; it contains more 
 than 6000 well-chosen volumes, among which are many 
 scarce and valuable books selected by Dr. Gray, who 
 bequeathed his library to the subscribers. There is also 
 a public reading-room, well supplied with periodicals. 
 A pack of fox-hounds for the Fifeshire hunt is kept 
 here, as the chief place of the meeting of its members ; 
 the environs are pleasant, and afford much interest to 
 the sportsman. The principal manufacture is that of 
 linen, which gives employment to about 900 persons in 
 the town and parish, who vvork with hand-looms at their 
 own dwellings. The linen made is of various qualities, 
 and is mostly exported to the East and West Indies, to 
 the continent, and to America. Connected with this 
 manufacture are three mills in the parish, two of which 
 are for spinning flax, and one for thread. Of the former, 
 one is set in motion by water, and the other partly by 
 water and partly by steam, and the latter mill entirely 
 by steam ; they employ in the aggregate nearly 240 per- 
 sons. There are two mills for grinding oatmeal and 
 barley, and two flour-mills, all of which were held under 
 the corporation until lately, when the feu-duty was sold. 
 There are also a fulling-mill and two tanneries in con- 
 stant use, to the latter of which has been added a manu- 
 facture of glue ; three public breweries have been esta- 
 blished, and there is an extensive manufactory of coarse 
 earthenware, the clay found in the parish being well 
 
 J
 
 C U P A 
 
 CUP A 
 
 adapted for making it, and also for bricks and tiles, of 
 which great numbers are made. The market is on 
 Thursday; it is a large market for corn (sold by sample), 
 emd is numerously attended by dealers from the neigh- 
 bouring districts. A number of fairs are also held, for 
 the sale of live stock, of agricultural implements, and 
 various other articles. 
 
 The inhabitants received their first charter of incor- 
 poration from David II. It bestowed many privileges, 
 which were extended by Robert II., who also granted 
 the burgesses considerable property in lands ; and all 
 the gifts were confirmed by subsequent charters down 
 to the reign of James VI., who conferred upon the bur- 
 gesses additional immunities, and the lands of the burgh 
 at a fee-farm rent, by charter dated at Edinburgh in 
 159n. By these charters the government was vested in 
 a provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, treasurer, and a 
 council of thirteen, a convener, and seven deacons of 
 trades, assisted by a town-clerk, and other officers ; 
 but the present town-council, composed of twenty-si.x 
 members, is elected in accordance with the provisions of 
 the Municipal act of 1833. The provost and bailies, 
 and ail other officers, are chosen by the council ; the 
 town-clerk alone holds office for life. There are eight 
 guilds of trade, the hammermen, wrights, weavers, 
 tailors, shoemakers, waulkers, bakers, and butchers, 
 who hold their exclusive privileges under a modifying 
 charter of Queen Anne ; each of these guilds elects its 
 own deacon, and the deacons make one of their number 
 convener, to preside over all the guilds. The freedom 
 is inherited by patrimony, by marriage with a freeman's 
 daughter, by apprenticeship, or by purchase, the amount 
 of which varies in the different guilds from £"20 to £50. 
 The magistrates hold burgh courts for the determination 
 of pleas to any amount, but the sherilf's courts for 
 small debts have nearly superseded the practice, and 
 their criminal jurisdiction, also, though by charter ex- 
 tending to all offences not capital, is by custom limited 
 to misdemeanors and cases of petty assaults, all graver 
 offences being referred to the county magistrates. By 
 the act of the 2nd and 3rd of William IV., the burgh 
 unites with St. Andrew's, Crail, the two Anstruthers, 
 Kilrenny, and Pittenweem, in returning a member to 
 the imperial parliament. The right of election is vested 
 in the householders of the annual value of £10 and up- 
 wards, resident within the limits of the parliamentary 
 boundary, which is more extensive than the municipal. 
 St. Andrew's is the returning burgh. The county-hall 
 is very spacious, and affords suitable accommodation 
 for the county meetings, the sheriff and justice-of-peace 
 courts, and for keeping the public records of the county: 
 it contains a portrait of General John, Earl of Hope- 
 toun, finely painted by Raeburn, and one of Thomas, 
 Earl of Kcllie, lord lieutenant of the county, by Wilkie. 
 There is also a town-hall. The old town and county 
 gaol, situated on the opposite side of the river Eden, 
 was badly arranged, and has been superseded by a large 
 county prison built to the north-east of the town, under 
 the Prison act of the year 1839. 
 
 In 161S, the parish of Cupar was augmented by the 
 union of that of Tarvit on the opposite bank of the Eden. 
 At present it extends five miles in length, and nearly 
 the same in breadth ; it comprises 5545 acres, all of 
 which, with the exception of a moderate proportion of 
 woodland and pasture, are arable land in the highest 
 267 
 
 state of cultivation. The surface is in some parts gently 
 undulating, in others rising into hills of moderate eleva- 
 tion, and, near the banks of the rivers by which it is 
 intersected, forming extended plains ; the scenery is 
 enriched with woods of natural growth, and thriving 
 plantations. Of the two streams, the river Eden, which 
 rises in West Lomond, about fifteen miles distant, flows 
 through the parish from west to east, in the centre of a 
 broad and fertile vale ; and the Ladyburn, which inter- 
 sects the parish from north-west to southeast, flows 
 into the Eden at the eastern extremity of the town. 
 The soil is various, in some parts a light sand, in others 
 a stiff clay, and in the valleys rich and fertile ; but even 
 the poorer soils are rendered abundantly productive by 
 diligent cultivation, and a liberal use of manure, which 
 is plentiful. The system of husbandry is in the most 
 improved state ; the crops are oats, barley, wheat, 
 potatoes, of which large quantities are grown for the 
 London market, and turnips, with the other usual green 
 crops. Much attention is also paid to the rearing of 
 live stock : the oxen are mostly of the old Fifeshire 
 breed, and at the great cattle-shows have obtained 
 prizes awarded by the agricultural societies ; some of 
 the Teeswater breed have been introduced, but they are 
 not generally approved. The substratum of the soil is 
 various. White sandstone is prevalent along the banks 
 of the Eden : on those of the Ladyburn, a conglomerate 
 sandstone is found, in which are embedded quartz and 
 flint ; and at a short distance from the confluence of 
 the two streams, is an extensive mound consisting of 
 gravel. Greenstone, trap-rock, and clinkstone are like- 
 wise found, above the gravel and sandstone along the 
 banks of the Eden, and are quarried, as is also the white 
 sandstone, for road-making and for building. The an- 
 nual value of real property in the parish is £18,715. 
 The ancient mansion of Carslogie, for many ages the 
 family seat of the Clephanes, was erected about four cen- 
 turies since, and, with the grounds, is still kept up. 
 Wemyss Hall was built about the commencement of the 
 last century, and has been lately enlarged. Kilmarou 
 is a modern mansion in the castellated style, after a de- 
 sign by Gillespie. Tarvit, Springfield, Dalyell, Hilton, 
 Carnie Lodge, Pitblado, Preston Hall, Middlefield, Balas, 
 Ferrybank, Bellfield, Blalowne, and Westfield are also 
 within the parish, and are neat residences, pleasantly 
 situated. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Cupar, synod of Fife, and in the patronage of the Crown. 
 There are two benefices : the minister of the first charge 
 has a stipend of £259, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £21 per annum; the minister of the second charge 
 has the same amount, but neither manse nor glebe. 
 Cupar church was erected in 1785, and has been altered 
 and enlarged from time to time. Another church, 
 called St. Michael's, was lately built, at an expense of 
 about £1800, partly raised by transferable shares, which 
 entitle each subscriber to the choice of a seat. There is 
 an episcopal chapel, a very handsome building ; also 
 places of worship for members of the Free Church, the 
 United Presbyterian Synod, Old Light Burghers, Bap- 
 tists, and Glassites. The grammar and English schools 
 formerly supported by the burgh have been discon- 
 tinued, and an academy, for which an appropriate build- 
 ing has been erected on the Castle Hill, has been sub- 
 stituted in their place, the patronage and management 
 
 2 M 2
 
 CUP A 
 
 CU P A 
 
 being vested in the trustees of the late Dr. Andrew Bell, 
 of Madras, who bequeathed some property called Egg- 
 more, in Dumfriesshire, worth between £400 and £500 
 per annum, for the purposes of education in the town. 
 The late Dr. Gray, of Middlesex, bequeathed £500 for 
 the establishment of a female sghool here, the manage- 
 ment of which is vested in the provost, clergy, and 
 schoolmaster of Cupar. An almshouse for ten or twelve 
 poor persons is under the management of the Kirk 
 Session ; it is of very ancient date, and the origin of its 
 foundation is not distinctly known. There is also an 
 asylum for females above fifty years of age, erected under 
 a legacy of £3000 bequeathed by David Knox, Esq., of 
 London, for its foundation and endowment. The poor 
 likewise have the interest of £450 left by Dr. Gray for 
 their benefit. On the bank of the Eden, on the Tarvit 
 side of that river, is a small conical eminence, anciently 
 the site of the parish church of St. Michael, Tarvit, 
 which ceased to exist long previously to the union of 
 Cupar and Tarvit ; and in making some improvements 
 in the road near the spot, many of the graves were 
 thrown open, and the remains of the dead exposed to 
 view. Upon the summit of a hill near Wemyss Hall, 
 are the remains of the cross of Cupar, which, on its re- 
 moval from its ancient site in the town, in order to the 
 formation of a new street, was set up in its present situ- 
 ation by the late Col. Wemyss. It consists of a circular 
 shaft, placed on a massive pedestal hewn from the rock 
 on which it stands ; and above the capital are the an- 
 cient arms of the town. Lord Campbell, lord chief 
 justice of the court of queen's bench, is the second son 
 of the late Dr. George Campbell, minister of Cupar. 
 
 CUPAR-ANGUS, or Coupar-Angus, a market-town 
 and parish, partly in the county of Forfar, but chiefly 
 in that of Perth ; including the villages of Balbrogie, 
 Longleys, and Washington, and containing '2745 in- 
 habitants, of whom 1868 are in the town, 12 miles (N. 
 N. E.) from Perth, and 55^ (N.) from Edinburgh. It 
 derives the affix, distinguishing its name from that of 
 Cupar in Fifeshire, from the more ancient part of the 
 town, which is within the county of Forfar or Angus. 
 An abbey of Cistercian monks was founded at this place 
 in 1164, by Malcolm IV., who amply endowed it with 
 lands in the parish, and various other estates in dif- 
 ferent parts of the country. Among its possessions here 
 were, Cupar grange, the home- farm of the monastery, 
 where the abbot had a country residence ; and the lands 
 of Keithiek, Arthurstone, Denhead, Balgersho, and Cro- 
 nan. The endowment was augmented by the Hays of 
 Errol, and other benefactors ; and the establishment 
 continued to flourish till the Dissolution, when its re- 
 venue was valued at £1^239 in money, and large pay- 
 ments in wheat, oats, barley, and other produce. The 
 buildings had begun to fall into a state of dilapidation 
 some few years before the Reformation, and their ruin 
 was completed by a body of reformers from Perth. The 
 only vestiges now remaining of this once magnificent 
 structure are in the south-west angle of the present 
 churchyard, on the side of the road to Dundee. A por- 
 tion of the building with a beautiful arch was taken down 
 in 1780, to furnish materials for the erection of the 
 parish church, of which the north wall rests upon part 
 of the foundation of the ancient edifice. The lands be- 
 longing to the monastery were erected, after its dissolu- 
 tion, into a temporal lordship by James VI., and granted 
 268 
 
 to the Hon. James Elphinston, second son of Lord 
 Balmerino, who was created Lord Coupar in 1609. On 
 his decease without issue the title and estates merged in 
 the Balmerino family, and, on the attainder of Arthur, 
 Lord Balmerino, in 1745, became forfeited. 
 
 The TOWN of Cupar, which was an ancient burgh of 
 regality, is pleasantly situated on the banks of a stream 
 that flows into the river Isla about three miles to the 
 west. It consists principally of four streets, formed by 
 the lines of the Perth and Dundee roads, which intersect 
 each other in the market-place. The houses are generally 
 neat and well built, and some, of more recent erection, 
 are of elegant appearance ; the streets are paved, and 
 lighted with gas by a company established within the 
 last few j'ears, and the inhabitants are amply supplied 
 with water. A public news and reading room, well 
 furnished with the London and provincial journals, is 
 supported by subscription ; and an agricultural society 
 formed about twenty or thirty years since, for awarding 
 premiums to the best breeders and feeders of cattle, hold 
 their meetings here twice every year. There are two 
 branch banks. The post-office has a good delivery, and 
 facility of communication with Perth and other towns in 
 the vicinity is afforded by excellent roads, and by the 
 Perth and Forfar railway, which has a station here. 
 The principal employment pursued is the hand-loom 
 weaving of the coarser kinds of linen ; there is also a 
 tanner}'. A salmon-fishery is carried on in the river 
 Isla, which likewise abounds with trout. The market is 
 on Thursday. Fairs are held on the third Thursday in 
 JIarch, for horses and cattle ; on the 26th of May, if on 
 Thursday, otherwise on the first Thursday after, for 
 cattle and sheep, and for hiring servants ; on the third 
 Wednesday in July, and the first Tuesday in October, 
 for horses, sheep, and cattle ; and on the 22nd of 
 November, if on Thursday, or on the first Thursday after, 
 for cattle and for hiring servants. Cattle-markets are 
 also held on the first Thursday in December, and every 
 succeeding Thursday till May. The Steeple was erected 
 by subscription in 1767, on the site of the ancient prison 
 of the burgh of regality, and the lower part of it is used 
 as a place of temporary confinement. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the north by the river Isla, 
 and is intersected by the great north road through the 
 vale of Strathmore. It is about five miles in length, and 
 from one mile and a half to two miles and a half in 
 breadth, comprising 2800 acres. The surface is varied ; 
 and from a high ridge which intersects the parish, is 
 obtained a splendid view of the Sidlaw mountains on the 
 south, the lower range of the Grampians on the north, 
 with the distant summits of Ben-More, Schihallion, and 
 Ben-Voirlich. The soil is various ; in some parts a rich 
 alluvial loam ; in others a stiff retentive clay, alternated 
 with sand and gravel, and with peat-moss. The system 
 of agriculture is improved, and the rotation plan of hus- 
 bandry is in general use ; the chief crops are wheat, oats, 
 barley, and turnips. The lands have been well drained, 
 and much soil of inferior quality has been brought into 
 profitable cultivation ; the buildings on the larger farms 
 are substantial and commodious, but on the smaller of a 
 very inferior description. The cattle, generally of a 
 mixed breed, have been much improved under the en- 
 couragement afforded by the agricultural society. The 
 annual value of real property in the Perthshire portion of 
 the parish is £9324, and in the Angus portion £591.
 
 C U R R 
 
 C Y RU 
 
 making a total of £9915. Keithick and Artburstone 
 are handsome residences. There were formerly populous 
 villages at Keithick and Caddam, but both have disap- 
 peared. Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds 
 of the presbytery of Meigle, synod of Angus and Mearns : 
 the minister's stipend is about £'240, with a manse, and 
 a glebe valued at £"25 per annum ; patron, the Crown. 
 Cupar church, a plain structure, was built in the year 
 1*80, and enlarged in 1S3'2, now containing SOO sittings. 
 There are places of worship for members of the Free 
 Church, the United Presbyterian Synod, Original Se- 
 ceders, and Episcopalians. The parochial school is well 
 attended ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house 
 and garden, and the fees average above £"0. A savings' 
 bank was opened in 1839, and has deposits to the 
 amount of £2600 ; there are also two friendly societies, 
 and a ladies' society for visiting and assisting indigent 
 and aged women. To the east of the churchyard are 
 the remains of a Roman camp, supposed to have been 
 that of LoUius Urbicus, and within the area of which the 
 abbey was founded. 
 
 CURRIE, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh, 
 6 miles (S. \V.) from Edinburgh ; containing, with the 
 villages of Balerno and Hermiston, 2000 inhabitants, of 
 whom 297 are in the village of Currie. This place, 
 anciently called Kil-Leith from a religious establishment 
 on the Water of Leith, is supposed to have derived its 
 more general appellation from the remains of the Roman 
 station Coria, which some antiquaries have identified 
 with the immediate vicinity. The lands appear to have 
 been the property of the Lennox family, of whose baronial 
 residence of Lennox Tower there are still considerable 
 remains on an elevated situation on the bank of the river, 
 commanding a fine view of the Firth of Forth. This 
 castle, which was the occasional residence of Mary, Queen 
 of Scots, and afterwards of the Regent Morton, was a 
 place of great strength, surrounded by a rampart, and in- 
 accessible on all sides. A subterraneous passage afforded 
 communication with the river, but it has recently been 
 closed, to protect the cattle that graze on the site. 
 
 The PARISH is skirted on the south by the Pentland 
 hills, and is about six miles in mean length, though its 
 extreme points from east to west are eight miles distant. 
 It is four miles in average breadth, and comprises an 
 area of 1 1,009 acres, of which two-thirds are arable, and 
 the remainder hill pasture and moss. The surface is 
 generally elevated, and broken into numerous hills, of 
 which Ravelrig, nearly in the centre of the parish, is 600 
 feet above the sea. There are also Currie hill and various 
 others, some of which rise to a still greater height. The 
 lower grounds are watered by the river of Leith, which 
 has its source in three copious springs near the western 
 extremity of the parish, and, after a course of fourteen 
 miles, in which it turns numerous mills, flows into the 
 Firth of Forth at the harbour of Leith. The soil is 
 mostly a stiff retentive clay, and, though difficult to work, 
 is fertile, producing favourable crops of grain of all kinds, 
 notwithstanding that the harvests are usually late. The 
 system of husbandry is in a very improved state ; the 
 lands are inclosed, and the farm-buildings substantial 
 and commodious. Considerable numbers of black-cattle 
 arc reared in the pastures, and sent to Edinburgh ; and 
 during the spring and summer months, many sheep are 
 purchased by the farmers, and fattened for the neigh- 
 bouring markets. The annual value of real property in 
 269 
 
 the parish is returned at £12,164. The principal sub- 
 strata are limestone and freestone of excellent quality ; 
 iind along the banks of the river, ironstone is found in 
 abundance. The limestone is not wrought for agricul- 
 tural use, from the want of coal to burn it ; but near the 
 village of Balerno are extensive quarries of freestone, from 
 which materials have been taken for many of the build- 
 ings of the New Town of Edinburgh. In the lower parts 
 of the parish, towards the north, are considerable re- 
 mains of ancient woods ; but on the higher lands, except 
 on the demesnes of the landed proprietors, there are 
 very few plantations. The seats are Riccarton, Malleny, 
 Baberton, Ravelrig, Currie-Hill, Glen-Darroch, Larch 
 Grove, Bankhead, West Brook, and Glen-Brook. The 
 village of Currie is situated on the banks of the Water 
 of Leith, and on the road to Lanark. The manufacture 
 of paper was introduced here about the year 1790, by 
 Messrs. Nisbet and Macniven, who erected extensive 
 mills for that purpose ; and there are also numerous 
 corn and other mills in the parish. Facilities of com- 
 munication are afforded by the roads to Lanark and 
 Glasgow, by the Caledonian railway, the Glasgow rail- 
 way, and the Union canal. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is vrithin the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Edinburgh, synod of Lothian 
 and Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is £264, with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £16 per annum ; patrons, 
 the Town Council of Edinburgh. Currie church, a neat 
 structure erected about the year 1790, is situated on an 
 eminence on the south bank of the river ; and its spire, 
 rising above the foliage around, forms a pleasing feature 
 in the scenery of the village. There is a place of worship 
 for the United Presbyterian Church. The parochial 
 school is well attended ; the master has a salary of £34, 
 with a house and garden, and the fees average £42. 
 Opposite to Lennox Tower, on the other side of the 
 river, are the ruins of the ancient mansion of the Skenes, 
 of Currie Hill ; and on the summit of Ravelrig are some 
 remains of a Roman exploratory camp. Among the 
 distinguished persons connected with the parish have 
 been. Sir George Skene, lord registrar in the reign of 
 James VI., and his son, Sir James, president of the court 
 of session ; Sir Thomas Craig, lord advocate in that 
 reign ; and the Scotts of Malleny, eminent lawyers of the 
 same period. Sir Archibald Johnston of Warriston, 
 uncle of Bishop Burnet, and whose son was envoy to 
 Brandenburgh in the reigns of King William and Queen 
 Anne, was a large landholder in the parish. 
 
 CUSHNIE, county Aberdeen. — See Leochel. 
 CUTHBERT'S, ST.— See Edinburgh. 
 CUTHILL, or Cuttle, a village, in the parish 'of 
 Prestonpans, county of Haddington ; containing 17*2 
 inhabitants. This place is on the shore of the Firth of 
 Forth, and in the western part of the parish, adjoining 
 the village of Prestonpans. Some salt-works, a pottery, 
 and a magnesia manufactory were formerly carried on 
 here. 
 
 CYRUS, SAINT, or Ecclescraig, a parish, in the 
 county of Kincardine ; including the villages of Loch- 
 side, Milton, Roadside, and Tangleha, and containing 
 1600 inhabitants, of whom 207 are in the village of St. 
 Cyrus, .5i miles (N. by E.) from Montrose. This place, 
 which is now generally known by the former of the two 
 names, is supposed to have derived the latter, in the 
 Gaelic language Eaglais-Creag, from the situation of its
 
 C YR U 
 
 CYRU 
 
 church at the base of a rocky promontory projecting into 
 the North Sea. The name of St. Cyrus, which, till the 
 close of the last century, was limited to a portion only 
 of the parish, is derived from a saint who lived in retire- 
 ment on the adjacent lands of Criggie, where there is a 
 well still called after him. At an early period, this 
 parish was distinguished for a castle named the Fortress 
 of Lauriston, situated near the eastern boundary. It 
 was erected about the tenth century, and, in the reign of 
 Edward III. of England, sustained repeated assaults from 
 the troops of that monarch, by whom, in 1336, it was 
 taken and garrisoned ; but towards the close of that 
 year it was recaptured by the regent Murray, and dis- 
 mantled. The castle, and the lands belonging to it, 
 were for more than four centuries in the possession of 
 the Straton family, but in 1695 were sold to Sir John 
 Falconer. From his descendants they were purchased 
 about the year 1689 by Mr. Brand, who incorporated 
 the remains of the ancient building, consisting of a square 
 tower and a portion of the chapel, into a spacious 
 modern mansion. 
 
 The p,\RiSH, which is bounded on the south-east by 
 the sea, and on the south and south-west by the North 
 Esk river, is about five miles in length, and from two 
 and a half to three in breadth. It contains S477 acres, 
 of %vhich 6234 are arable, 300 in woods and plantations, 
 and the remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. The 
 surface is diversified with hills, the principal of which 
 are, Bridgeton and Jackston in the east, and Morphy 
 and Pitbeadly in the west, averaging about 500 feet in 
 height, and Brands hill and Woodston hill, having an 
 elevation of 630 feet above the sea. These hills are in- 
 tersected with deep valleys and narrow glens, watered 
 by various rivulets, one of which, in its progress towards 
 the sea, forms a picturesque cascade. The coast, which 
 is indented with several small bays, is a level beach of 
 fine sand for about a mile from the mouth of the North 
 Esk, beyond v/hich it is lined by precipitous cliffs of 
 limestone, worn by the action of the waves into caverns 
 of fanciful appearance. At the village of Milton-Mathers, 
 where lime-works had been long established, the quarry- 
 men had so undermined the elevated ledge which de- 
 fended that part of the coast, that, in 1*95, the village 
 was swept away by an irruption of the sea, which en- 
 croached 150 yards upon the land. 
 
 The SOIL is generally a rich and fertile clay, well 
 adapted for grain of every kind ; and the crops are oats, 
 barle}', wheat, beans, peas, turnips, and potatoes, of 
 which last great quantities are raised. The system of 
 agriculture is improved ; the dairy-farms are productive, 
 and a kind of sweet- milk cheese is made, which is in 
 high estimation. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £14,034. The woods mainly consist of 
 ash, plane, elm, beech, and birch, and the plantations of 
 larch, Scotch, and silver firs ; they are well managed, 
 and are for the most part thriving. A great variety of 
 other trees have been planted on the lands of Lauriston 
 with entire success. The prevailing rocks in the parish 
 are of the old red sandstone and trap formations. There 
 are quarries of a durable white sandstone used chiefly 
 for ornamental building, on the lands of Kirkside : and 
 sandstone which is easily wrought, and very durable, is 
 extensively quarried at Woodston and Lauriston, yield- 
 ing a return of £1000 per annum. Tilestoues were 
 formerly obtained at Morphy, for roofing ; but from 
 270 
 
 their insufficiency to resist the influence of the atmo- 
 sphere, the use of them has been discontinued. Lime- 
 works were also once carried on, to a great extent ; 
 and at Sea-Greens, on the coast, in the immediate 
 vicinity of the works, is a small harbour accessible to 
 boats of 50 or 60 tons' burthen, by which the produce of 
 the works was conveyed to its destination. Among the 
 seats in the parish is Lauriston, a handsome mansion 
 erected by the late proprietor, and including portions of 
 the ancient castle ; it is romantically situated on the 
 verge of a precipitous height rising from a deep and 
 richly-wooded dell. Mount Cyrus occupies an eminence 
 to the north-west of the village, with beautiful lawns, 
 and extensive plantations ; and Kirkside House, a sub- 
 stantial modern mansion, stands near the southern ex- 
 tremity of the parish, in grounds tastefully laid out, and 
 commanding some fine views of the bay and town of 
 Montrose. Bridgeton is also pleasantly situated, ou 
 rising ground near the eastern extremity of the parish. 
 The manufacture of coarse linen is carried on, aflfording 
 employment to about thirty persons. There are some 
 valuable salmon-fisheries, together producing a rental 
 of nearly £3000 per annum, and giving occupation to 
 about sixty persons ; the fish are for the most part 
 packed in ice, and conveyed to the Edinburgh and 
 London markets. Facility of communication is afforded 
 by good roads, of which the great north read has on its 
 line two handsome bridges, one built in 1*75, at an ex- 
 pense of £6000, and the other in 1 S 1 7, at a cost of £600. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is w ithin the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Fordouu, synod of Angus 
 and Mearns. The minister's stipend is £'247. 17., with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £1 1 per annum ; patron, 
 the Crown. St. Cyrus church, erected in 1783, on a 
 site nearly a mile to the north of the ancient church, 
 and enlarged in 1830, is a neat substantial structure 
 with a spire, and contains about 850 sittings. From 
 its situation on an eminence 250 feet above the level of 
 the sea, it forms a conspicuous landmark for mariners. 
 There is a place of worship for members of the Free 
 Church. The parochial school is well attended : the 
 master has a salary of £33, with a good house and 
 garden, and the fees average £30. The parochial library 
 contains nearly 750 volumes, chiefly on religious sub- 
 jects. Sir Joseph Straton, of Kirkside, bequeathed 
 £500 for promoting education in the parish, the pro- 
 ceeds of which sum are applied to the payment of school 
 fees for the children of the poor. Among the rehcs of 
 antiquity is the Kaim of Mathers, a camp on those 
 lands, situated on a rocky peninsula connected with the 
 main land by a narrow isthmus, defended by battlements 
 on each side : on the peninsula are the remains of a 
 square tower, said to have been the residence of the 
 ancestors of the Barclays of Ury. The castle of Morphy, 
 supposed to have been the baronial seat of the Graham 
 family, has totally disappeared, and the site has been 
 effaced by the plough. On the lands, however, is still 
 an upright stone, erected, according to tradition, to com- 
 memorate the defeat of the Danes in a battle that took 
 place near the spot ; it has the form of an obelisk, about 
 thirteen feet in height, and the number of stone coffins 
 containing human bones which have been found in an 
 adjoining field, strengthens the probability of its sup- 
 posed origin. Upon the hill of Pitbeadly are some 
 remains of a circular camp.
 
 D A I L 
 
 D AI R 
 
 D 
 
 DAILLY, a parish, in the district of Carrick, 
 county of Ayr, 6 miles (S. by W.) from Maybole ; con- 
 taining 2'272 inhabitants, of whom 591 are in the vil- 
 lage. The parish is about seven miles in length, from 
 east to west, and varies from four to six miles in breadth. 
 Its surface is chiefly one extended valley, bounded on 
 both sides by hills of moderate elevation, and enlivened 
 by natural woods and thriving plantations ; and the 
 prospect from the hills, including the winding course of 
 the Girvan for nearly seven miles, in a direction parallel 
 with the boundary of the parish, and meandering through 
 large and beautiful domains, is extremely picturesque. 
 The well-known Rock of Ailsa, which lies out between 
 ten and fourteen miles from the Girvan shore, and is the 
 abode of vast flocks of solan geese, forms part of the 
 parish of Dailly : it is described under its own head. 
 The soil near the river is light, but very productive. 
 On the south side of the valley it is incumbent on a 
 bod of gravel, and is peculiarly favourable for pasture ; 
 on the north side it is intermixed with clay. The whole 
 number of acres is estimated at 17,000, whereof about 
 9000 are arable, 2500 in woods and plantations, and the 
 remainder pasture and moorland, of which not more 
 than about 300 appear capable of being brought into 
 cultivation. The crops are wheat, oats, barley, pota- 
 toes, and turnips ; the system of agriculture is greatly 
 improved, and much of the moorland has been re- 
 claimed. Great attention is paid to live stock : the 
 cattle are of the Ayrshire breed, with a few of the 
 Galloway, and some crosses between the Ayrshire and 
 Teeswater breeds ; the sheep are of three varieties, the 
 black-faced, the Cheviot, and a cross between these two 
 breeds. Embanking has been practised with success : 
 to prevent the inundation to which the lands were sub- 
 ject from the river Girvan, and to shorten its course, a 
 new channel about '210 yards in length was some time 
 since formed, and on both sides of it a double embank- 
 ment was raised. The woods consist of oak, ash, plane, 
 elm, and birch, and the plantations are principally 
 Scotch, larch, and spruce firs ; they are well managed, 
 and in a very thriving state. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £10,695. 
 
 The substrata are chiefly coal, limestone, and free- 
 stone. The coal occurs in a large tract of elliptic form, 
 about six miles in length, and 600 yards in breadth, 
 forming part of the great coalfield extending from Edin- 
 burgh into the county of Ayr. It is of excellent quality ; 
 the quantity annually raised averages about 20,000 
 tons, and a great portion of it is shipped at Girvan for 
 the coast of Ireland. The limestone, which is also of 
 good quality, is extensively quarried at Craighead, on 
 the Bargany estate, and at Blairhill, on the lands of 
 Kilkerran ; the quantity of lime annually produced is 
 100,000 bolls, each boll containing two Winchester 
 bushels. The freestone is found in numerous ])laces, 
 but the most valuable occurs on the bases of the hills 
 south of the coal basin, on the estate of Kilkerran, and 
 the whitest and most compact lies near the centre of 
 that tract. The materials for building the mansions of 
 Kilkerran and Dalquharran, in this parish, and of Blair- 
 271 
 
 quhan, in the parish of Straiton, were raised from the 
 freestone-quarries here. Kilkerran and Darquharran 
 arc handsome houses, pleasantly situated in demesnes 
 richly embellished with plantations ; and further down 
 the river, in grounds laid out with exquisite taste, stand 
 the mansion-house of Bargany and the castle of Kil- 
 lochen. The village has been greatly enlarged and im- 
 proved within the last few years ; the new parts of it 
 are regularly built, and the houses of neat appearance. 
 It has a post-office under that of Maybole. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr : patron, the Crown. The stipend of the in- 
 cumbent is £348 ; the manse, built in 1801, is a com- 
 fortable residence, and the glebe comprises seven acres 
 of land, valued at £15. 10. per annum. Dailly church, 
 which is in the village, is a substantial edifice erected in 
 1766, and adapted for 600 persons. The members of 
 the Free Church have a place of worship. The parochial 
 school, which is also a grammar school, is well con- 
 ducted ; the master has a salary of £30, with a house 
 and garden, and the fees average £25. A parochial 
 library has been established, and is supported by sub- 
 scription ; it has nearly 200 volumes, chiefly on religious 
 subjects. At Machry-Kill was formerly a small church 
 or chapel dedicated to St. Macarius, from which cir- 
 cumstance that place took its name ; and at the extre- 
 mity of a wild and romantic dell near Kilkerran, abound- 
 ing with picturesque features, was a chapel dedicated to 
 the Virgin, from which the place still retains the appella- 
 tion of the Lady Glen. At the western extremity of 
 the ridge of hills that intersects the parish, are the 
 remains of an ancient encampment of oval form, about 
 100 yards in length, and sixty-five in breadth at the 
 centre. It is surrounded by a double intrenchment, of 
 which the inner rampart is the more entire. It com- 
 mands a most extensive view, and is supposed to have 
 been connected with the history of Robert Bruce. 
 
 DAIRSIE, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county (^ 
 of Fife, 2 miles (E. N. E.) from Cupar; containing, 
 with the village of Osnaburgh, or Dairsie-Muir, 669 
 inhabitants. This place is of some antiquity, and ap- 
 pears to have belonged to the see of St. Andrew's till 
 the year 1520, when it was granted by charter of 
 Archbishop Foreman to the family of Learmonth of 
 Clatto, in whose possession it remained till the year 
 1616. It then became the property of Archbishop 
 Spottiswood, from whose descendant. Sir John Spot- 
 tiswood, it was conveyed to Sir George Morrison, Knt. ; 
 and it was subsequently purchased by Thomas, Earl of 
 Kincardine. The estate was sold by the earl in 1772 
 to General Scott of Balcomy, whose daughter con- 
 veyed it by marriage to the Duke of Portland, by 
 whom it was afterwards disposed of; and it is now 
 divided among several proprietors. Dairsie Castle, the 
 residence of Archbishop Spottiswood, and in which it 
 is said he wrote his History of the Cliurcli of Scolldiid, 
 though now a ruin, is in good preservation ; it is situ- 
 ated on an eminence near the banks of the river Eden, 
 and has an air of venerable antiquity. It was selected 
 as a place of security and retirement, during the minority 
 of David II., by the regents of Scotland, who held a 
 parliament in the castle in the year 1335. 
 
 The PARISH, which is bounded on the south and 
 south-east by the Eden, is of irregular form, nearly
 
 DALE 
 
 D A L G 
 
 iJUitAf^ 
 
 three miles in length, and of almost equal breadth, com- 
 prising an area of 2300 acres, of which, except about 
 fifty acres in woodland and plantations, the whole is 
 arable. Its surface rises gently to a considerable eleva- 
 tion, and, towards the centre, into two conspicuous 
 hills called respectively Foodie and Craigfoodie, the 
 latter of which is 500 feet above the sea. Both these 
 hills are cultivated to their summit ; and Foodie, which 
 is the less elevated, is crowned with plantations. The 
 river, over which is a handsome bridge of three arches, 
 erected by Archbishop Spottiswood, abounds with sal- 
 mon and trout ; and the Middlefoodie burn, a fine trout- 
 stream, intersects the parish, and eventually flows into 
 the Eden. The soil is mostly fertile, in many parts of 
 great depth, and the system of agriculture is excellent, 
 the parish being one of the best cultivated in Fifeshire ; 
 the crops are wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips, 
 with the various grasses. The substrata are chiefly 
 whinstone and freestone ; the former is quarried on the 
 hill of Foodie, and the latter is found in abundance on 
 the lands near the river. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £4752. 
 
 In this parish the principal mansion-houses are Craig- 
 foodie, Pitormie, and New-Mill, all modern buildings. 
 ^Voodend Cottage, a small but handsome residence, sur- 
 rounded with wood, was occupied for some time by Lord 
 William Russell, who was inhumanly murdered in London 
 by his valet Courvoisier. The manufacture of dowlas is 
 carried on under the direction of Mr. Inglis, in whose 
 establishment about thirty-five persons are engaged ; 
 and there are two mills for the spinning of flax, one 
 belonging to Mr. Annan, in which 5200 spindles, and 
 one to Mr. Michael Smith, in which 31,250 spindles, 
 are employed. Great facilities of intercourse are afforded 
 by the Dundee section of the Edinburgh, Perth, and 
 Dundee railway. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the 
 presbytery of Cupar and synod of Fife : the minister's 
 stipend is about £250, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £11 per annum ; patron. Captain McDonald. Dairsie 
 church, situated near the remains of the old castle, was 
 erected by Archbishop Spottiswood, about the year 1621, 
 and was originally an elegant structure in the later 
 EngUsh style, of which it is said to have been one of 
 the most beautiful specimens in the country. It under- 
 went much mutilation, however, in the time of the 
 Covenanters, who, in their zeal for the demolition of 
 idolatrous monuments, in 1645 destroyed most of its 
 richest details. The members of the Free Church have 
 a place of worship. The parochial school is attended 
 by about sixty children ; the master has a salary of £34, 
 with a house and garden, and the fees average £25 per 
 annum. 
 
 DALAROSSIE, county Inverness. — See Moy. 
 
 DALAVICH, Argyll — See Kilchrenan. 
 
 DALBEATTIE, a village, in the parish of Urr, 
 stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 85 miles (S. E.) from 
 Castle-Douglas ; containing 1430 inhabitants. This 
 place is of modern erection, and is built on the estates of 
 the Copland and Maxwell families. It is seated on both 
 sides of the Dalbeattie burn, and is admirably situated 
 for trade, tlie river Urr being navigable so far from the 
 Solway Firth for small vessels, and the burn, which is a 
 considerable stream, being well adapted for driving 
 machinery. The manufacture of paper is carried on. 
 A large portion of the population is Irish, for whose 
 
 27 2 
 
 labour, in the present state of the district, there is not 
 a sufF.cient demand ; and hence much poverty exists 
 among them. A post-office is established under Castle- 
 Douglas. There is a place of worship in connexion 
 with the Free Church ; and a Roman Catholic chapel 
 was built here about thirty or forty years since. 
 
 DALCROSS, county of Inverness. — See Croy. 
 
 DALGARVAN, a village, in the parish of Kilwin- 
 ning, district of Cv nninghame, county of Ayr, 1^ 
 mile (N. by W.) from Kilwinning; containiug 107 in- 
 habitants. It is situated on the road from Irvine to 
 Dairy, and on the west side of the Garnock river, which 
 runs here in a direction nearly from north to south. 
 
 DALGETY, a parish, in the district of Dunferm- 
 line, county of Fife, 2 miles (W. S. W.) from Aberdour ; 
 containing, with the villages of St. David and Fordel- 
 Square, and part of the villages of Crossgafes and Hill- 
 end, 1265 inhabitants. This place, which is on the 
 Firth of Forth, appears to have been indebted for its 
 growth and importance to its situation in the heart of a 
 district aboundmg in mineral wealth, and to the facilities 
 it possessed of exporting the produce, from its proximity 
 to the sea. The abundance and superior quality of the 
 coal in the parish seem to have attracted attention at a 
 very early period, and the mines are supposed to have 
 been worked for nearly three centuries : none, however, 
 are at present in operation. The parish is about five 
 miles in length, and in some places not more than one 
 mile in breadth. Its surface rises gently from the Firth 
 towards the more inland parts, where the land attains 
 an elevation of nearly 440 feet above the sea ; and the 
 higher grounds command an extensive and interesting 
 view over the opposite shores of the Firth. The scenery 
 is enlivened by the loch of Otterston, about three-quar- 
 ters of a mile in length and a quarter of a mile in breadth, 
 the shores of which, enriched with plantations and with 
 natural wood, and having a pleasing alternation of hill 
 and valley, form a very picturesque and varied landscape. 
 A rivulet descending from the higher grounds flows 
 through a deep-wooded dell, and, meeting with the stream 
 of water from the drainage of the collieries at Fordel, is 
 precipitated in its course from a rock, forming a strikingly 
 romantic fall of nearly fifty feet. 
 
 The soil, especially in the southern part of the parish, 
 is a deep black loam, mixed with clay ; in the higher 
 grounds, hghter ; and in some of the lower, wet and 
 swampy, with moss and heath. From the abundance 
 of lime used, the lands are in general fertile. The sys- 
 tem of agriculture is in a very advanced condition ; 
 draining has been carried on successfully, and the wet 
 lands in the northern part have been greatly improved. 
 The chief crops are oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips ; 
 there are rather more than 1000 acres under cultivation, 
 and about 240 in wood and plantations. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £10,573. The 
 substratum mainly consists of secondary rock ; and 
 sandstone, whinstone, bituminous shale, limestone, and 
 coal are abundant. The sandstone is found in various 
 parts, but of bettor quality in the southern portion of 
 the parish. The limestone lies about fifty fathoms below 
 the coal, the beds of which are very extensive, and in 
 many places intersected with dykes of sandstone, inter- 
 spersed with limestone and quartz. The principal coal- 
 works are on the estate of Fordel, and were in operation 
 at a very early period, though not carried on to any 
 
 oW 
 
 iTi
 
 D A LH 
 
 D A LK 
 
 great extent till within the last forty or fifty years. The 
 quantity of coal raised annually at these works was lat- 
 terly about 70,000 tons, a great part of which, from its 
 superior quality, was exported to the continent and to 
 America ; it was conveyed from the pits to the coast by 
 a tramroad, in waggons containing from two to three 
 tons each. The number of persons employed, including 
 women and children, was about 550, for whose accom- 
 modation 130 houses were built on the estate, with neat 
 gardens ; and there were many others regularly engaged 
 in shipping the coal at the port of St. David. The great 
 north road runs through a remote part of the parish. 
 
 Donibristle Park, the splendid domain of the Earl of 
 Moray, extends nearly the whole length of the parish, 
 along the shore, with perpetually varying views : the 
 fine old mansion is beautifully placed at the western ex- 
 tremity of Dalgety bay, conspicuous, among the rich 
 woods, from the water. Fordel House is a handsome 
 residence in extensive grounds embellished with planta- 
 tions, and comprehending much interesting scenery. 
 Cockairney is an ancient mansion, situated near the 
 eastern extremity of the lake of Otterston ; and on the 
 northern bank of the loch is the old house of Otterston. 
 St. Colme House, a modern edifice, is pleasantly situated 
 opposite to the island of Inchcolm in the Firth of Forth. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dunfermline, synod of Fife : the stipend of 
 the incumbent is £'227 ; the manse is the finest in Scot- 
 land, and the glebe is valued at £20 per annum. Dalgety 
 church, a very handsome edifice in the later English 
 style, was erected in 1830, on a site about a mile north- 
 ward of the ancient church, which was close to the sea ; 
 it is adapted for 500 persons. The parochial school is 
 well managed ; the master has a salary of £34, with a 
 house and garden, and the fees on the average amount 
 to £1S. On the lands of the Earl of Moray are the re- 
 mains of the ancient church, which previously to the 
 Reformation was an appendage of the monastery on 
 Inchcolm. Within the area is the tomb of Chancellor 
 Seaton, who was created Earl of Dunfermline in 1605 ; 
 and in front of one of the remaining galleries are the 
 arms of the Earls of Dunfermline, a title that is now 
 extinct. 
 
 DALGINROSS, a village, in the parish of Comrie, 
 county of Perth, 6| miles (W.) from Crieff; containing 
 317 inhabitants. This place is situated in the eastern 
 part of the parish, and on the road from Crieff to Loch- 
 earnhead : the Earn water and Ruchill rivulet pass in 
 its immediate vicinity. The village adjoins that of Com- 
 rie, and partakes of its trade, which is chiefly cotton- 
 weaving. On the contiguous plain of Dalginross is a 
 large Roman camp, of which Mr. Pennant has given a 
 plan and descripfitm in his Tour. 
 
 DALHOUSIE, a village, in the parish of Cooki-en, 
 county of Edinburgh, 1 mile (W.) from Cockpen ; con- 
 taining 99 inhabitants. It is a small and straggling 
 place, situated south of the road between Cockpen and 
 Lasswade. The neighbourhood is distinguished as hav- 
 ing been the seat, for many generations, of the noble 
 family of Ramsay, whose baronial mansion of Dalhousie 
 Castle stands on the banks of the South Esk, which 
 flows at a few yards distance from the walls. It is of 
 great antiquity, but has lost much of its former venerable 
 aspect, having undergone many alterations from time to 
 time, and been much modernised by the late Earl of 
 Vol. I.— 2/3 
 
 Dalhousie. This illustrious nobleman and gallant officer, 
 who rendered important services to his country through 
 a brilliant military career in various parts of the globe, 
 died at the castle in March 183S, in his sixty-eighth 
 year, and was succeeded by his only surviving son, James 
 Andrew, the tenth and present earl, governor-general of 
 India, created Marquess of Dalhousie of Dalhousie Cas- 
 tle and of the Punjaub in 1849. 
 
 DALINTOBER, a village, in the parish of Camp- (O 
 BELLTOWN, district of Cantyre, county of Argyll, 
 1 mile (N. W.) from Campbelltown ; containing 1762 
 inhabitants. This place forms a pleasant suburb to the 
 burgh of Campbelltown, and is beautifully situated on 
 the opposite shore of the loch of Kilkerran, now Camp- 
 belltown bay, at its north-western extremity. From 
 the freedom the proprietors possess of granting long 
 leases for building, from which the superior of Camp- 
 belltown is restricted, Dalintober has rapidly increased 
 to an extent rivalling that of the burgh. It consists of 
 one spacious street extending along the water-side, and 
 has a substantial little pier. — See Campbelltown. 
 
 DALKEITH, a market-town, burgh of barony, and (h 
 parish, in the county of Edinburgh ; containing, with 
 the villages of Lugton and Whitehill, 5830 inhabitants, 
 of whom 4831 are in the town, 6 miles (S. E. by S.) from 
 Edinburgh. This place, at a very remote period, was 
 the property of the ancient family of Graham, whose 
 baronial castle, together with the lauds, passed in the 
 reign of David II., by marriage with the daughter and 
 heiress of the last lord, to Sir William Douglas, ancestor 
 of the Earls of Morton. In the reign of James II., the 
 castle was besieged by the Earl of Douglas, in conse- 
 quence of the firm attachment of its proprietor to the 
 cause of that monarch, against whom the Douglas family 
 had rebelled. It was, however, vigorously and success- 
 fully defended ; and after the disastrous battle of Pinkie, 
 in 1547, became the asylum of many of the Scots who 
 fled to it for refuge, till, from want of provisions, the 
 garrison was compelled to surrender to the English. 
 The castle was afterwards the chief residence of the Re- 
 gent Morton, on whose attainder for the murder of Lord 
 Darnley, it was forfeited with the barony to the crown. 
 Upon his execution, the lands were in part restored to 
 his family; but the castle was still held by the crown, 
 and, under the designation of the Palace of Dalkeith, 
 was reserved for the residence of Prince Henry, son of 
 James VI. During the visit of Charles I. to Scotland, 
 in 1633, the palace was the chief residence of that mo- 
 narch ; and in 1638 it was occupied by the Marquess 
 of Hamilton, who had been appointed by the king as 
 commissioner to treat with the Covenanters, and who, 
 for greater security, removed into it the ancient regalia 
 of Scotland, which were subsequently deposited in the 
 castle of Edinburgh. In 1642 the castle and barony 
 were purchased by the family of Scott, who are the pre- 
 sent proprietors ; and in the time of the parliamentary 
 war, the castle became the residence of General Monk, 
 Cromwell's governor of Scotland, by whom the grounds 
 are said to have been considerably improved. 
 
 The TOWN is beautifully situated between the rivers ^ 
 North Esk and South Esk, and is handsome and well 
 built, consisting of several regular streets, of which the 
 High-street is spacious, and increases in breadth, from 
 its entrance on the west, till it terminates on the east at 
 the principal lodge of the palace. The streets are paved, 
 
 2N
 
 D AL K 
 
 and lighted with gas ; and the inhabitants are amply 
 supplied with water. A public subscription library was 
 established in 1698, and has now a collection of nearly 
 2500 volumes ; there is also a circulating library, con- 
 taining 3000 volumes. A scientific association was in- 
 stituted in 1835, for the delivery of lectures on scientific 
 subjects. In the High-street are numerous substantial 
 houses, and handsome shops stored with every kind of 
 merchandise ; and in various parts of the town are several 
 iron-foundries, tanneries, a brewery, soap and candle 
 manufactories, extensive brick and tile works, and other 
 establishments ; with some hotels and inns of a very su- 
 perior description. There are also several branch banks, 
 and offices for the agents of different insurance com- 
 panies. The market for grain, which is amply supplied, 
 is on Thursday, and is numerously attended by dealers 
 from distant places. From Martinmas to Whitsuntide, 
 a very large market for oatmeal is held weekly, on Mon- 
 day, which is one of the most frequented in the king- 
 dom ; and a customary market, abundantly supplied with 
 butchers' meat, poultry, and vegetables and provisions 
 of all kinds, is held every Saturday. Fairs, chiefly for 
 horses and black-cattle, are held on the first Thursday 
 in May and the third Tuesday in October. Facility of 
 communication is maintained by good roads in various 
 directions, and by the Edinburgh and Hawick railway, 
 which has a short branch to the town. Dalkeith is 
 partly governed by a baron-bailie, appointed by the 
 Duke of Buccleuch ; but he exercises civil jurisdiction 
 only in actions not exceeding £2, and jurisdiction in 
 criminal cases only for petty offences punishable by a 
 small fine or a night's imprisonment, referring all more 
 important causes to the sheriff of the county. There 
 are six incorporated trades, the hammermen, bakers, 
 weavers, shoemakers, dyers, and butchers ; but they 
 possess no exclusive privileges, and are scarcely to 
 be regarded as any thing more than so many friendly 
 societies. The paving, lighting, and watching of the 
 town, with the regulation of the markets and police, are 
 under the direction of a board of trustees, who are in- 
 vested with power to levy taxes for these purposes. The 
 court-house, containing also a small prison, is an ancient 
 building, without any pretension to style, situated in the 
 High-street. 
 
 From the beauty of the surrounding scenery, and the 
 numerous attractions of its palace and other objects of 
 interest, the town is a favourite place of residence, and 
 the resort of visiters from Edinburgh. The p.\lace, 
 which was the residence of George IV. during his visit 
 to Scotland in 1822, and had also the honour of a visit 
 from her present Majesty, attended by Prince Albert, in 
 1842, is situated at the eastern extremity of the town. 
 Though not remarkable for the style of its architecture, 
 it is a spacious and magnificent structure. It was 
 erected on the site of the ancient castle, on the preci- 
 pitous and richly-wooded banks of the North Esk, about 
 the close ot the seventeenth century, by Anne, Duchess 
 of Buccleuch and Monmouth, who, after the execution 
 of her husband the Duke of Monmouth, resided here in 
 all the pomp and splendour, and with all the appen- 
 dages, of royalty. The interior comprises numerous 
 state apartments : the grand staircase, the throne-room, 
 the conservatory, the picture-gallery containing an ex- 
 tensive collection of paintings by the most eminent 
 masters of the various schools, and the whole of the in- 
 274 
 
 D A LL 
 
 ternal arrangements, are costly and superb. The de- 
 mesne attached to the palace comprises more than 1000 
 acres, and abounds with variety and beauty of scenery. 
 The rivers North and South Esk, whose banks are pre- 
 cipitous and richly wooded, flow in graceful windings 
 through the demesne, and unite their streams, over which 
 are many picturesque bridges, w'ithin its limits. The 
 pleasure-grounds are tastefully laid out in lawns, shrub- 
 beries, and plantations ; and the park, which is well 
 stocked with deer, is finely ornamented with venerable 
 timber. 
 
 The PARISH is about three miles in length, and nearly 
 two in breadth, comprising an area of which about one- 
 half is arable, and the other half woodland and pasture. 
 Its soil is rich, and the lands are divided into farms of 
 moderate extent, in the highest state of cultivation ; the 
 chief crops are wheat, barley, oats, beans, potatoes, and 
 turnips, and much of the surface is garden-ground, pro- 
 ducing abundance of fruit for the Edinburgh market. 
 The substratum is generally coal, which is found at a 
 very considerable depth, and of which extensive mines 
 are in operation at Cowden, about a mile south-eastward 
 of the town. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £16,713. Ecclesiastically the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Dalkeith, synod of Lo- 
 thian and Tweeddale ; patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. 
 The minister's stipend is £316, with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £40 per annum. Dalkeith parish church, 
 on the north side of the High-street, is an ancient struc- 
 ture in the early English style, with a square embattled 
 tower ; it is partly dilapidated, and the interior is but 
 indifferently arranged, containing 1130 sittings: the 
 churchyard is extensive. A new church was erected by 
 the Duke of Buccleuch in 1840; it is a handsome cru- 
 ciform structure in the later English style, and is beau- 
 tifully situated in the north-west of the tow-n, overlooking 
 the vale of the North Esk. There are places of worship 
 for the United Presbyterian Synod, Independents, mem- 
 bers of the Free Church, and Episcopalians. The paro- 
 chial or grammar school, which has long maintained a 
 high degree of reputation, is conducted by a rector and 
 two assistants ; the rector's salary is £34, with a house 
 and garden, and the fees average about £75. The 
 course of studies includes the classics, the French and 
 Italian languages, the mathematics, and the usual 
 branches of a liberal education ; and many eminent 
 literary characters have received the rudiments of their 
 education in the establishment. Dalkeith confers the 
 title of Earl upon the Duke of Buccleuch. 
 
 DALLAS, a parish, in the county of Elgin ; in- 
 cluding the hamlet of Edinville, and containing 1179 
 inhabitants, of whom 187 are in the village of Dallas, 
 8 miles (S. E.) from Forres. This place takes its name 
 from the two Gaelic words dale, a vale or plain, and uis, 
 contracted from uisge, water. It was formerly the seat 
 of the sub-dean, and comprehended the parish of Altyre; 
 but that district was disjoined and annexed to the parish 
 of Rafford in 1657, and Easter Kelles, a part of the 
 parish of Elgin, was joined to Dallas ; an arrangement 
 which was ratified by act of parliament in 1661. The 
 barony of Dallas was at an early period in the posses- 
 sion of the Cummings of AltjTe, whose castle of Dallas, 
 or Torcastle, was built by Sir Thomas Gumming, in the 
 year 1400; and the Cummings are still, with the Earl 
 of Fife, and James William Grant, Esq., of Wester El- 
 
 II 
 
 -J
 
 BALL 
 
 D A L M 
 
 chies, the proprietors of the parish. In shape the pa- 
 rish is like the section of an oblate spheroid ; it measures 
 about fifteen miles in length, and nine in breadth, and 
 consists mainly of valleys and rising grounds. The 
 chief valley is watered by the Lossie, which rises here, 
 in Loch Trevie, and after contributing to form much 
 beautiful scenery, and taking its course through the 
 parishes of Birnie, Elgin, and Drainie, falls into the 
 Moray Firth at the port of Lossiemouth. The summits 
 of the hills skirting this valley on each side are covered 
 with heath, but their slopes are highly cultivated, yield- 
 ing heavy and luxuriant crops, down to the banks of 
 the stream, which in many places are ornamented with 
 alder-trees, supplying bark frequently used by the people 
 for preparing a black dye. Besides the Lossie river, 
 numerous burns greatly enliven the scenery, which in 
 general is highly interesting ; and all of these, rising 
 among the hills, run into the Lossie. That called the 
 burn of Glen Latterach, or Angry burn, forms a beau- 
 tiful cascade, surrounded by nearly perpendicular rocks 
 100 feet in height; and on the burn of Auchness is an- 
 other picturesque fall, though less striking than the 
 former. All the lochs are well stocked with excellent 
 trout ; the chief are the lochs of Dallas, Noir, Rheninver, 
 and Trevie. 
 
 The soil along the banks of the Lossie is a fertile allu- 
 vial earth, resting on gravel ; at the base of the moun- 
 tains the land has a tilly subsoil, and partakes of the 
 character of the mosses, which, higher up, towards the 
 south, spread out in extensive tracts. Most of the in- 
 habitants are employed in the cultivation of the land. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £2913. 
 The rocks comprise granite, felspar, mica, freestone, and 
 grey slate, and there are quarries of the two last, but 
 not in operation. Of the plantations, the most conspi- 
 cuous are those on the hills of Melundy and Wangie, 
 and that on the estate of Craigmill : the first-mentioned 
 hill has lately been replanted with silver-fir, spruce, 
 larch, and birch, and part of the second with fir and 
 larch, the other part being covered with natural oak ; 
 Craigmill, adjoining Melundy, has a thriving plantation 
 of fir and larch. The village, which is pleasantly situ- 
 ated on the northern bank of the Lossie, about a quarter 
 of a mile from the church, was feued about half a cen- 
 tury since by Sir Alexander Penrose Gumming. The 
 woollen manufacture is carried on in the parish, employ- 
 ing ten or twelve hands. There are county roads to 
 Elgin and Forres, in good condition ; and a new road 
 called the Knockando road, extending from Forres to 
 the Spey, is of great advantage to the more hilly parts of 
 the district. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the pres- 
 bytery of Forres, synod of Moray, and in the patronage 
 of Sir William Gordon Gordon Gumming, of Altyre and 
 Gordonstown, Bart. The minister's stipend is £158. 6. 
 8., of which part is received from the exchequer ; with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £12 per annum. Dallas 
 church, situated about the centre of the parish, will ac- 
 commodate 400 persons, but, never having been properly 
 finished, is inconvenient and uncomfortable. The pa- 
 rochial school affords instruction in all the necessary 
 branches ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house, 
 and fees, and also participates in the Dick bequest. The 
 chief relic of antiquity is the ruin of the castle, situated 
 on a plain about a mile from the church, on the north 
 bank of the Lossie. In the churchyard is a stone cross, 
 275 
 
 twelve feet high, at the foot of which lies an efhgy of 
 St. Michael, the patron saint of the parish, in ruins. 
 There is also a large oblong stone at the east end of the 
 parish, occupying the site of an old chapel and burying- 
 ground. 
 
 DALMALLY, a village, in the parish of Glenorchy 
 and Inishail, district of Lorn, county of Argyll, 13 
 miles (S. E.) from Bunawe, 16 (N. E.) from Inverary, 
 and 99^ (W. by N.) from Edinburgh. It is a small vil- 
 lage, pleasantly situated on the southern bank of the river 
 Orchy, and contains an excellent inn, and a post-office. 
 About a quarter of a mile eastward is the Well of St. 
 Conan, the tutelary saint of the country, remarkable for 
 the lightness and salubrity of its water. 
 
 DALMELLINGTON, a parish, in the district of 
 Kyle, county of Ayr, 14 miles (S. E. by S.) from Ayr; 
 containing 1199 inhabitants. This place derived its 
 name, signifying in the Gaelic language " the town of 
 the valley of the mill ", from the particular local features 
 which distinguished it at the time. The parish is about 
 ten miles in length and three in average breadth, and is 
 bounded on the south and south-west by the lake and 
 river Doon, which separate it from the parish of Straiton, 
 in Carrick. It comprises 20,000 acres, of which 1304 
 are arable, 17,800 pasture and waste (whereof 1200 
 might be brought into profitable cultivation), 750 in 
 woods and plantations, and about 300 undivided com- 
 mon. The surface is extremely varied. The upper por- 
 tion of it is intersected by three ridges of moderate ele- 
 vation, two of which are nearly parallel, and the third 
 crosses them obliquely. The lower part of the parish is 
 one continued ridge of heights, the principal of them 
 being Benwhat, Benbraniachan, and Benbeoch, which 
 last terminates the ridge, to the cast, in a splendid range 
 of basaltic columns nearly 300 feet in height, and about 
 600 feet in breadth. Between this ridge and the river 
 Doon is a plain, about three miles in length and one 
 mile broad, on which the village is situated. Several 
 deep and precipitous defiles are formed by the approach 
 of the ridges towards each other ; and on the Dumfries 
 road they approximate so closely as, in some parts, to 
 leave only a sufficient passage for the road and a small 
 burn that flows by it. On the side of the Loch Doon 
 range of heights, where the river issues from the lake, 
 the precipitous rocks approach within thirty feet of each 
 other for nearly a mile, rising perpendicularly to the 
 height of 300 feet above the bed of the river, and pre- 
 senting a magnificent combination of features. This 
 pass, called the Glen or Craigs of Ness, forms the en- 
 trance to the vale of Doon, which afterwards expands 
 into rich and luxuriant meadows. The river issues from 
 the lake through two tunnels excavated in the solid 
 rock, and, pursuing a north-western course along the 
 boundary of the parish, intersects a level plain, in part 
 of which, near the village, its waters expand into a wide 
 lake. This lake is called Bogton, and is frequented by 
 aquatic fowl of various kinds ; and near the south-cast 
 of the parish is Loch Muck, in the form of a crescent, 
 covering about thirty acres in the middle of a heathy 
 moor ; a lake of great depth, and abounding with black 
 trout. 
 
 The SOIL on the banks of the river is a deep rich 
 loam ; along the bases of the hills in the lower part of 
 the parish, a moist clayey loam, resting on sandstone ; 
 and behind the ridge, moss. In the higher part the soil 
 
 2 N 2 
 
 roU«>t)- 
 
 <»
 
 D A L M 
 
 D A L M 
 
 JUMP 
 
 is light and dry, interspersed with peat resting on grey- 
 wacke rock, with some portions of heath. The principal 
 crop of grain is oats, and the green crops are chiefly po- 
 tatoes : the system of agriculture is advancing ; tile- 
 draining is on the increase, and spade husbandry has 
 been adopted with success upon the mossy lands, on a 
 limited scale. About 8000 sheep, mostly of the black- 
 faced breed, are pastured in the course of the year, with 
 a small number of the Cheviot and Leicestershire breeds ; 
 about 300 Ayrshire cows, and about 500 head of young 
 cattle, partly of the Galloway breed, are also annually 
 pastured. The annual value of real property in the pa- 
 rish is £3679. The plantations are principally larch and 
 Scotch fir, which appear to be well adapted to the soil, 
 and are in a thriving condition, with ash, and birch, 
 some oak, and other hard-woods. The substrata are 
 chiefly sandstone and greywacke, with coal, ironstone, 
 and hmestone. The coal has been worked in several 
 places, in some of which, especially in the lower parts 
 of the parish, it has been found at little more than two 
 fathoms from the surface. Pits have been opened, and 
 are now in operation, at Camlarg, about a mile from the 
 village ; and at the extremity of the parish, about five 
 miles distant. 
 
 The village, which was a burgh of barony, is pleasantly 
 situated in the vale, sheltered in the rear by hills of 
 various elevation. There are, a library supported by 
 subscription, which has a collection of 800 volumes; 
 and a reading-room, which has also a library of more 
 than 600 volumes, bequeathed to it some years since by 
 a shopkeeper of the village. A penny-post has been 
 established here ; and there are some inns for the recep- 
 tion of the numerous visiters whom the interesting sce- 
 nery of the neighbourhood attracts to the spot, and of 
 the shooting and fishing parties who resort hither during 
 the season. In 1847 an act of parliament was passed 
 for the construction of a railway, about 6 miles in length, 
 from Dalmellington to Smithstown ; to be called the 
 Ayrshire and Galloway railway. The woollen manufac- 
 ture is carried on to a small extent : two mills are in 
 operation, employing a moderate number of hands, in 
 spinning woollen-yarn, which is here manufactured into 
 plaiding, tartans, carpets, blankets, and packing-cloths. 
 Several of the inhabitants, also, are employed in weaving 
 cotton-cloth ; and there was formerly an extensive 
 bleachfield, which, since the substitution of cottons and 
 the increased importation of Irish linens, has been dis- 
 continued, and, in lieu, a thread-mill substituted on the 
 premises. Fairs are held on Easter Eve, the first Friday 
 after Whitsunday, and on Hallow E'en (all O. S.), chiefly 
 for wool and for hiring servants. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr, and in the patronage of the Crown : the mi- 
 nister's stipend is £158, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £'20 per annum. The parochial school is well 
 conducted; the master has a salary of £34, with £10 
 fees, and a house and garden. 
 
 There was formerly a castle near the village, the site 
 of which only is now remaining, the materials having 
 been removed for the erection of a house in the village, 
 from that circumstance called the Castle House. It ap- 
 pears to have been but of small dimensions ; it was tradi- 
 tionally styled Dame Helen's Castle, and between it and 
 the village is a mound, once the place for dispensing 
 justice. There was another castle, apparently of larger 
 276 
 
 dimensions, and of greater strength, situated on the pro- 
 jecting side of a deep glen, and called Laght Alpine ; 
 nothing, however, but the site remains. A Roman road 
 passed through the whole length of the parish, but it has 
 been destroyed to furnish materials for making dykes ; 
 it has been traced through the parish of Dalrymple to 
 its termination at a ford on the river Ayr. Several 
 cairns, also, have been removed for a similar purpose, 
 one of which, on the summit of a hill above the village, 
 was 115 yards in circumference. 
 
 DALMENY, a parish, in the county of Linlith-^ 
 Gow ; including the village of Craigie, and containing 
 1393 inhabitants, of whom 118 are in the village of 
 Dalraeny, 1^; mile (S. E.) from Queensferry. This place, 
 in ancient records styled Dumanie, is supposed to have 
 derived that name, of Celtic origin, signifying " black 
 heath", from the appearance of the greater portion of its 
 surface at the period. The barony, including the lands 
 and castle of Barnbougle, once belonged to the family of 
 Mowbray, who came over from Normandy with William 
 the Conqueror, and of whom Philip de Mowbray was 
 lord of Dalmeny in the reign of Alexander II. It re- 
 mained in the possession of his descendants till the year 
 1615, when it was sold by Sir Robert Mowbray to Sir 
 Thomas Hamilton, subsequently Earl of Haddington, 
 whose grandson in I66'2 disposed of it to Sir Archibald 
 Primrose, Bart., of Carrington, afterwards justice-general 
 of Scotland, and who was ancestor of the Earl of Rose- 
 bery, the present proprietor. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the north by the Firth of 
 Forth, along which it extends for about four miles, from 
 a rivulet separating it from the parish of Cramond, on 
 the east, to Abercorn on the west. It is about two miles 
 and a half in breadth, and includes the ancient parish of 
 Auldcathie, which was annexed to it in 1618, and is the 
 property of the Earl of Hopetoun ; the whole comprising 
 an area of 5850 acres, of which 650 are in Auldcathie. 
 The number of acres under tillage is about 4000 ; about 
 1000 are meadow and pasture, and 850 woodland and 
 plantations. The surface is finely undulated, rising in 
 some parts into hills of considerable height, of which the 
 principal are Dundas hill, the Mons, and Craigie hill, 
 having an average elevation of 380 feet above the sea. 
 The view from the summit of Mons hill is almost unri- 
 valled for beauty and extent, commanding a range over 
 sixteen counties, and comprising a rich variety of pictu- 
 resque and romantic features. The shore of the parish 
 is indented with numerous small bays and inlets ; and 
 though in some parts the beach is rendered unsafe, from 
 the quantities of moss carried down by the river, yet it is 
 pleasingly alternated with tracts of white sand, in which 
 a great variety of shells is embedded. The Linmill burn 
 flows into the Firth near the western extremity of the 
 parish, and in its course, falling from a precipitous rock 
 of whinstone, nearly seventy-five feet high, near Spring- 
 field, forms a pleasing cascade. The soil of the higher 
 grounds is chiefly clay, improving gradually towards the 
 lower lands into a rich loam, producing abundant crops, 
 in some places almost without manure. The system of 
 agriculture is in a very advanced state, and the lands 
 have been well drained ; the crops are oats, barley, and 
 wheat, with turnips and potatoes ; the pastures are rich, 
 and a considerable number of sheep and cattle are fed 
 on turnips. In this parish the plantations consist of 
 oak, ash, elm, beech, plane, and fir, of which there are
 
 D A L M 
 
 D A L II 
 
 many trees of long growth. The substrata are limestone, 
 freestone, and whinstone ; and on the acclivity of Dundas 
 hill is a range of columnar basalt, about seventy feet 
 in height, at the base of which was formerly a loch, now 
 drained and consisting of a deep bed of moss lying on 
 shell marl, in which oak-trees have been found embedded, 
 in a very perfect state. The freestone is of the finest 
 quality, and has been extensively wrought near Queens- 
 ferry. Ironstone is also found, and there are some 
 indications of coal, but no attempts have been made to 
 work it. 
 
 Dalmeny House, the seat of the Earl of Rosebery, is a 
 noble mansion built by the present earl, and surrounded 
 by au extensive and richly-wooded park, in which are 
 the remains of the ancient castle of Barnbougle, over- 
 hanging the Firth. The grounds gradually rise from the 
 shore in beautiful undulations, commanding diversified 
 prospects over the Firth and the adjacent country, and 
 lombining much variety of scenery. Her Majesty visited 
 this seat during her stay at Edinburgh in Sept. 1842. 
 Craigie Hall stands near the south-eastern extremity of 
 the parish, in the vale of the Almond, and sheltered by 
 rising grounds clothed with stately timber. The river 
 Almond winds through the demesne, and, flowing by the 
 mansion, forms a picturesque cascade, falling perpendi- 
 cularly from its rocky bed, shortly after which the stream 
 runs beneath a rustic bridge of one arch, forty-eight feet 
 in span, erected in the year 1757, and covered with ivy. 
 Near the cascade is a grotto, in which are a bath, sup- 
 plied and emptied by sluices from the river ; and a sa- 
 loon. Dundas, an elegant modern mansion built in 
 connexion with an ancient baronial castle, is situated on 
 the steep acclivity of a craggy hill, in a picturesque de- 
 mesne of 1600 acres. The castle is supposed to have 
 been originally erected in the eleventh century, and 
 several additions were made to it in the early part of the 
 fifteenth century, when its proprietor obtained a license 
 from Robert, Duke of Albany, to convert it into a for- 
 tress, which license was confirmed by James I., in 1424. 
 Its walls, which are of great thickness, were raised to 
 the height of seventy-five feet ; the various rooms are all 
 vaulted, and a circular staircase leads to the roof, which 
 is flat, and defended by a battlement. In the grounds, 
 in front of the castle, is a fountain of singular design, 
 formerly occupying the centre of a quadrangular area 
 inclosed with massive stone walls twelve feet in height. 
 Within these walls were flights of steps, leading to a 
 banquet-room at each of the angles ; and the whole is 
 said to have been constructed in 1623, by Sir Walter 
 Dundas, who appropriated to that purpose the funds he 
 had set aside for the purchase of the barony of Barn- 
 bougie, in which he was anticipated by the Earl of Had- 
 dington. The village of Dalmeny is pleasantly situated 
 on the road to Dundas, and consists of a few cottages 
 built round a green, with the church and manse. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of LinHthgow, synod of Lothian 
 and Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is £264, with a 
 manse, and a glebe of five acres and a half; patrons, the 
 Earl of Rosebery and the Earl of Hopetoun, alternately. 
 Dalmeny church is ancient, and forms a very elegant 
 specimen of early architecture. The interior is eighty- 
 four feet long, and twenty-five feet wide, with a semicir- 
 cular chancel, divided from the nave by a deeply-recessed 
 and richly-moulded arch with zigzag ornaments ; and 
 
 the capitals of the columns that support the vaulted roof, 
 are also embellished with sculpture. It was repaired in 
 1816, and contains 350 sittings. At the entrance is a 
 large stone coffin, formed of one entire stone, and in- 
 scribed on the sides and on the lid with hieroglyphic 
 characters. The church of Auldcathie is in ruins. There 
 is a place of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod. 
 The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £34, and the 
 interest of £300 bequeathed by Lady Scmple in 1/23, 
 and vested in the Earl of Rosebery and the minister. 
 The poor receive the rent of lands held by the Earl of 
 Rosebery, producing about £30 a year. James David- 
 son, Esq., bequeathed £200 to the poor not on the parish 
 list ; and such of them as live in that small part of the 
 town of Queensferry which is within this parish, parti- 
 cipate in the proceeds of Mr. Meek's bequest of £5000 
 to the town of Queensferry. About a mile to the west 
 of Barnbougle Castle, on the summit of an eminence, is 
 an ancient cairn called Earl Cairney : it appears to have 
 been originally 500 feet in circumference at the base, 
 and is now twenty-four feet in height. At Springfield 
 were lately discovered a skeleton of large size, and a 
 trench filled with human bones ; and near Queensferry, 
 on the lands of Dundas, a brass vessel in which was a 
 pagan idol was found in 1738, but was destroyed by the 
 workmen. Several silver medals of Marcus Antoninus, 
 having on the reverse a figure of Victory ; the carved 
 handle of a copper vessel ; and part of an earthen urn, 
 have been found near Dundas Castle. The parish gives 
 the title of Baron to the Earl of Rosebery. — See Queens- 
 ferry. 
 
 DALMUIR and DALMUIR-SHORE, villages, in the 
 parish of Old Kilpatrick, county of Dumbarton, the 
 one 2 miles (E. S. E.) and the other 2| miles (S. E. by S.) 
 from Old Kilpatrick ; containing respectively 526 and 
 187 inhabitants. These places are in the vicinity of the 
 Forth and Clyde canal and the road from Glasgow to 
 Dumbarton, and on the south flows the river Clyde. 
 They each partake in the manufactures of the parish, 
 and there is a quay for domestic trafiic, of very ancient 
 date. Among the works are a paper-mill, a bleachfield, 
 and a soda-factory : the last, established by the grand- 
 father of the present Earl of Zetland, stands on the 
 margin of the river, its furnaces and chimneys contrasting 
 remarkably with the surrounding scenery, which is very 
 pleasing. The principal stream of the district, supplied 
 by two lakes, falls here into the Clyde. 
 
 DALROSSIE.— See Moy and Dalrossie. 
 DALRY, a manufacturing town and parish, in the 
 district of CuNNiNGHAME, county of Ayr, 5 miles (S.W.) 
 from Beith, and 7 (N. N. E.) from Saltcoats ; containing, 
 according to the last census, 4791 inhabitants. This 
 place derives its name, in the Gaelic language signifying 
 the " king's valley", from its situation in the vale of 
 Garnock, which formed part of the royal demesnes. 
 Previously to the year 1608 the town was an inconsi- 
 derable village, consisting only of five or six decent 
 houses and a few straggling cottages, and containing 
 scarcely one hundred inhabitants. It owes its origin 
 and increase to the erection of the parish church at this 
 place, towards the commencement of the seventeenth 
 century, when the two ancient churches, becoming dila- 
 pidated, were abandoned. The town is beautifully situ- 
 ated on a gentle eminence rising from the right bank of 
 the river Garnock, and between the rivers Rye and Caaf, 
 
 Y 
 
 LttoLT/t^ 
 
 /9
 
 D A L R 
 
 D A L R 
 
 which flow into the Garnock above and below the town. 
 It consists principally of five streets, three of which ter- 
 minate in an open area nearly in the centre. The houses 
 are regularly and well built, and many of them are of 
 handsome appearance ; the streets are lighted with gas 
 by subscription of the inhabitants, for which purpose a 
 company was formed, and works erected, in 1834. There 
 are two good bridges of stone across the Garnock, of 
 two and three arches respectively ; and bridges of one 
 arch each have been erected over the rivers Rye and 
 Caaf. 
 
 The weaving of silk for the manufacturers of Glasgow 
 and Paisley is the principal occupation of the inhabitants 
 of the town, 500 persons being constantly thus engaged ; 
 and as they are employed chiefly in the superior descrip- 
 tion of articles, they have not been subjected to the 
 depression occasioned by the introduction of power- 
 looms, which are not adapted to the finer kinds of work. 
 A great number of females, also, are employed in sewing 
 and embroidering muslins, for the Glasgow and Paisley 
 markets, which are celebrated for Ayrshire needlework ; 
 and a mill originally erected for spinning cotton has been 
 enlarged, and converted to the spinning of woollen-yarn 
 for the making of carpets. There is likewise a manufac- 
 tory for wooden plates, bowls, ladles, and other articles 
 of the kind, the machinery of which is driven by a 
 steam-engine of two-horse power. The town contains 
 numerous handsome shops, amply supplied with every 
 requisite for the supply of the inhabitants and of the 
 neighbourhood. A public library is supported by sub- 
 scription, and has more than 1000 volumes : a church 
 hbrary, also supported by subscription, in connexion 
 with the parochial school, contains 600 volumes ; and 
 there is a library belonging to the congregation of the 
 United Presbyterian Synod. The Ardrossan Farmers' 
 Society hold their annual exhibitions occasionally in the 
 town, and the Ayrshire Agricultural Association meet 
 alternately here and at Kilmarnock. Six fairs are an- 
 nually held, but one only is of any importance, which 
 takes place on the last day of July, and was formerly 
 one of the most extensive horse-fairs in the west of Scot- 
 land ; it is chiefly for horses and cattle, but compara- 
 tively little business is transacted. 
 
 The PARISH is ten miles in length and from three to 
 eight in breadth, and comprises 19,046 acres, of which 
 12,287 are arable, 60S9 pasture and waste, and 6/0 
 woodland and plantations. Its surface is pleasingly 
 varied. A rich and fertile valley, along which the river 
 Garnock pursues its winding course, intersects the parish 
 nearly in the centre. On the western side of this valley 
 the grounds rise by a gradual ascent towards the north- 
 west boundary, and terminate in a ridge of hills, the 
 highest of which has an elevation of 1200 feet above 
 the sea. The lands on the eastern side are interspersed 
 with hills of various height, of which Baidland and 
 Caerwinning are the chief, the former having an eleva- 
 tion of 946, and the latter of 634 feet. The river Gar- 
 nock rises in the parish of Kilbirnie, flows for seven 
 miles through this parish, and after receiving in its 
 course numerous tributary streams, of which the Rye 
 and the Caaf are the principal, falls into the sea at Irvine. 
 The Rye has its source in the parish of Largs, and runs 
 through a deep and richly-wooded dell into this parish. 
 The Caaf rises on the confines of Kilbride and Largs, 
 and forcing its way through a basaltic rock, in which it 
 278 
 
 has worn for itself a passage, enters a deep and rocky 
 glen, where, its course being obstructed by huge blocks 
 of stone, it forms a romantic cascade, falling from a 
 height of twenty-four feet, in one unbroken column about 
 twenty feet in breadth, between two large masses of 
 rock. There are numerous springs of excellent water in 
 the parish, and also some possessing mineral properties, 
 one of which, at Loans Bridge, is a strong chalybeate, 
 and one at Maulside powerfully efficacious in scorbutic 
 affections. The vale of the Garnock is thought to have 
 been anciently an extensive lake, reaching from this 
 place to Johnstone in the county of Renfrew, and of 
 which the lochs of Kilbirnie and Castle-Semple formed 
 a part ; a supposition in some degree rendered probable 
 from the number of trees that have been found em- 
 bedded in the soil of the valley. 
 
 The SOIL is generally a thin cold retentive clay, with 
 a portion of rich loam along the banks of the Garnock ; 
 in some parts, of more adhesive clay, with a large extent 
 of moss ; and in the uplands, of a light and dry quality. 
 The progress of the plough is impeded by vast numbers 
 of boulders, of which, though great quantities have been 
 removed at various times, many still remain. Some of 
 the mosses are of great depth, and in all of them oak, 
 birch, and hazel trees are found prostrate. The crops 
 are wheat, oats, barley, beans, potatoes, and flax : the 
 system of agriculture is in an advanced state, and much 
 waste land has been brought into cultivation. The 
 dairy-farms are extensive and well managed ; about 
 1400 milch-cows are kept, mostly of the Cunninghame 
 breed, and the average quantity of cheese, to the making 
 of which particular attention is paid, exceeds 35,000 
 stones annually. In general the sheep are of the black- 
 faced Linton breed, with a few of a breed between the 
 Cheviot and Leicestershire. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £16,314. The plantations, es- 
 pecially those on the lands of Blair, which have been 
 chiefly formed on steep rocky banks within the last 
 forty or fifty years, are in a very thriving condition, and 
 consist of oak, ash, beech, chesnuts, and willow, and of 
 silver and spruce firs, and larch. Those around the 
 house of Blair contain several fine specimens of luxu- 
 riant growth, among which are a Spanish-chcsnut tree 
 and some plane-trees ; and in the grounds are various 
 kinds of evergreens, including Portugal laurels and rho- 
 dodendrons of unusual size. The plantations on the 
 lands of Maulside are also remarkably fine. The sub- 
 strata of the parish comprise sandstone, limestone, and 
 coal, and the hills are mostly claystone-porphyry, green- 
 stone, and basalt ; jasper is found in the porphyry, horn- 
 stone in the bed of the Caaf, and agate in that of the 
 Rye. In the hill of Baidland, a vein of cannel coal has 
 been discovered of the thickness of six feet, exceedingly 
 inflammable, and, when burnt, emitting a strong sul- 
 phureous smell. Coal is wrought in various parts of 
 the parish. Limestone is extensively quarried, not only 
 for the supply of the parish, but for that of the adjoining 
 districts ; and there are three lime-kilns, at which great 
 quantities of lime are burnt, and sold at a very moderate 
 price. But more valuable than these minerals is the 
 ironstone discovered since the opening of the Ayr rail- 
 way, and which is now wrought to a great extent ; iron- 
 works have been erected on the estate of Blair, and 
 others are contemplated. The discovery of most valu- 
 able strata of clay and blackband-ironstone has increased
 
 D AL R 
 
 D A L R 
 
 the value of property, and infused a spirit of enterprise 
 that was previously altogether unknown here. Blair 
 House is a spacious mansion, situated in a richly- 
 embellished demesne ; a handsome residence has been 
 erected at Swinridgemuir, and there is also a good house 
 on the lands of Pitcon. Facility of intercourse is afforded 
 by excellent roads ; and the railway from Glasgow to Ayr, 
 Kilmarnock, &c., has a station at Dairy. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is in the pres- 
 bytery of Irvine, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the 
 patronage of W. Blair, Esq. : the minister's stipend is 
 £■231. 10., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £24 per 
 annum. Dairy church, erected in 1771, and thoroughly 
 repaired in 1821, is a plain edifice adapted for 870 per- 
 sons. There are places of worship for the Free Church 
 and United Presbyterian Synod. The parochial school 
 affords a good course of education ; the master has a 
 salary of £32, with £65 fees, and a house and garden. 
 There are considerable remains of an ancient fortifica- 
 tion on the summit of Caerwinning hill, consisting of 
 three concentric circular ramparts of stone, inclosing an 
 area about two acres in extent, and surrounded by a 
 fosse which may still be traced. The walls, about ten 
 feet in thickness, have been nearly destroyed by the 
 removal of the stones, at different periods, for fences and 
 other uses. The Scottish forces are said to have been 
 encamped here previously to the battle of Largs. There 
 were formerly some remains, also, of a square fort on a 
 precipitous rock called Aitnach Craig, on the bank of 
 the Rye ; but it has been totally destroyed. An arti- 
 ficial mound near the town, named Courthill, of conical 
 form, and grown over with grass, was once the place for 
 dispensing justice ; and various tumuli have been dis- 
 covered, in some of which were human bones. Four 
 urns containing human bones have been found on the 
 lands of Linn, near the site of an ancient chapel. An 
 urn, also, containing calcined bones and ashes, has been 
 discovered near Blair House. 
 (^ DALRY, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirkcud- 
 bright, 15 miles (N. N. W.) from Castle-Douglas ; con- 
 taining 1215 inhabitants, of whom 574 are in the village 
 of St. John's Clachan. This parish, the name of which, 
 signifying the "Royal Dale", is derived from a level 
 and fertile plain called the Holm, is about fifteen miles 
 in length, and seven miles in breadth, comprising 33,000 
 acres. Its surface is diversified with hills, of which 
 some are green to their summit, and others are covered 
 with barren heath ; the proportion of arable land is 
 very small, nearly four-fifths of the area being pasture. 
 The river Ken, which rises in the northern extremity of 
 the parish, forms the western boundary between it and 
 the parish of Kells, and after a beautifully- winding course, 
 flows through Loch Ken into the river Dee. The smaller 
 streams are the Blackwater, the Earlston, and the 
 Stronriggan, which run through the parish into the Ken; 
 they all abound with trout, and in the Ken are found 
 also pike and salmon. The chief lakes are Lochinvar, 
 Boston, Knocksting, and Knockman, of which Loch- 
 invar, about fifty acres in extent, is the most important ; 
 the others arc all of very small dimensions, and undis- 
 tinguished by any features requiring notice. In Loch- 
 invar are the remains of the ancient castle of the Gordons, 
 Knights of Lochinvar, and afterwards Viscounts Ken- 
 mure ; and near it is a cairn, raised as a trophy on a 
 spot where the first knight killed a wild boar that in- 
 279 
 
 fested this part of the country. The scenery along the 
 banks of the Ken is enriched with ancient woods of con- 
 siderable extent, of which the largest is that of Earlston, 
 formerly a hunting-seat of the Earl of Bothwell, and in 
 which are some plantations of stately fir. 
 
 The SOIL on the Holm lands is tolerably fertile, yield- 
 ing favourable crops of barley, oats, turnips, potatoes, 
 and rye ; and the hills and higher lands afford excellent 
 pasture. The system of agriculture is improved ; and 
 the surface has been drained, and inclosed with stone 
 dykes of sufficient height to afford shelter to the cattle. 
 Great numbers of sheep and black-cattle are reared in » 
 the pastures. In the village is a post-office under that y ti^*^-* 
 of Castle-Douglas ; and facility of communication is » 
 
 maintained by good roads, of which those leading from 
 Kirkcudbright to Ayr and Glasgow, and from Newton- 
 Stewart to Dumfries and Edinburgh, intersect the parish. 
 The annual value of real property in Dairy is £5768. 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Kirkcudbright and synod of 
 Galloway. The minister's stipend is £217. 12., with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum ; patron, 
 William Forbes, Esq., of Callendar. Dairy church, erected 
 in the year 1832, is a neat structure containing 700 sit- 
 tings : in the churchyard is an aisle of the old church, 
 quite detached from the present building, and which is 
 the burying-place of the Gordon family. There is a 
 place of worship for members of the United Presbyterian 
 Church. Two parochial schools, the masters of which 
 have a yearly salary of £25 each, with a house and gar- 
 den, in addition to fees, are supported by the heritors, 
 and together attended by more than forty children. A 
 grammar school was founded by Dr. Robert Johnson, of 
 London, who endowed it with £1000 for the gratuitous 
 instruction of the children of the parish ; it is under the 
 management of two masters, who have salaries of £15 
 a year each, and is attended by nearly 120 children. The 
 building, erected in 1658, comprises a good dwelling- 
 house and schoolroom, with eight acres of land at- 
 tached to it. There are remains of ancient buildings on 
 the adjoining farms of Benbreck and Manquhill, supposed 
 to have been the residence of a branch of the Galloway 
 family ; and in various parts of the parish are intrench- 
 ments for the security of cattle during the times of the 
 border warfare. — See Clachan, St. John's. 
 
 DALRYMPLE, a parish, in the district of Kyle, (fi 
 county of Ayr, 5 miles (N. E.) from Maybole, and 6 (S. 
 E.) from Ayr ; containing 909 inhabitants. This place 
 derives its name, in the Celtic language signifying " the 
 dale of the crooked water", from the situation of its 
 village on a bend of the river Doon. The barony, which 
 in ancient times was held by a family who took their 
 name from the lands, was, in the reign of David II., 
 divided into two portions, and held by two families 
 named Dalrymple, descended from one common an- 
 cestor. In 1371, on the resignation of one of the por- 
 tionists, John Kennedy of Dunure obtained from Robert 
 II. a charter granting him that half of the barony, and in 
 1377 another charter, conferring upon him the other 
 half; and the whole continued in the possession of his 
 descendants till 1684, after which the barony passed 
 into the hands of various proprietors. The parish is 
 about seven miles in length, from east to west, and three 
 miles in extreme breadth, and is boijtnded on the south 
 and west by the river Doon. It comprises 6700 acres.
 
 D A L R 
 
 D A L S 
 
 of which 4200 are arable, 1900 meadow and hill pasture, 
 500 woodland and plantations, and about 100 water. 
 The surface, with the exception of that part in which 
 the village is situated, is exceedingly uneven, being inter- 
 spersed with rising grounds and small detached hills of 
 various elevation. Woodland, the most southern height, 
 commands a fine view of the surrounding country, in- 
 cluding the isles of Bute and Arran, the Mull of Cantyre, 
 Ailsa Craig, and Ben-Lomond ; and from the summit of 
 Kirkmien, the highest of the elevations, the north coast 
 of Ireland may be distinctly seen in fair weather. There 
 are numerous springs in the parish, and several of them 
 possess mineral properties, though one only, on the lands 
 of Barbieston, is a chalybeate of moderate strength. 
 
 Of the lakes, the only one of much importance is that 
 of Martinham, which is about a mile and a half in 
 length, and less than a quarter of a mile in breadth ; its 
 greatest depth is about twenty-six feet. On a beauti- 
 fully-wooded island in this lake, are the ruins of an 
 ancient building supposed to have been the mansion- 
 house of the Martinham estate ; they are 100 feet long 
 and thirty in breadth, and the walls, which are the chief 
 remains, are thickly overspread with luxuriant ivy. The 
 other lakes are Loch Snipe, Loch Kerse, and Loch Lind- 
 ston. All of them abound with pike, perch, and eels, 
 and are frequented by wild-duck, teal, widgeon, and other 
 aquatic fowl. From the loch of Martinham, which ex- 
 tends a considerable way into the parish of Coylton, a 
 small burn flows into the river Doon. This river, cele- 
 brated by the poet Burns, falls, after a course of about 
 thirty miles, into the Firth of Clyde. Salmon are found 
 in its stream, though in less number since the laying 
 down of stake-nets at its mouth, and some are taken 
 which weigh from ten to twenty pounds : sea and yellow 
 trout, par, eels, and pike are also found in its waters. 
 
 The SOIL is principally clay, though alternated with 
 sand, gravel, and loam : the clay is of various kinds, of 
 a red, blue, and whitish hue ; the loam is found chiefly 
 near the river and around the lochs. There is very little 
 mossy land. The crops are oats and wheat, barley, bear, 
 potatoes, turnips, beet, and a small quantity of flax for 
 domestic use ; the system of agriculture is in an ad- 
 vancing state, and all the more recent improvements 
 have been introduced. There are several large dairy- 
 farms, all of which are well managed ; about 4000 stones 
 of cheese are annually produced, of which a considerable 
 part is sent to market, and the remainder sold for the 
 supply of the immediate neighbourhood. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £5615. The 
 woods consist of oak, elm, ash, alder, birch, plane, and 
 lime ; and the plantations, of larch, spruce, and Scotch 
 firs. In the old gardens at Skeldon are six stately oaks, 
 supposed to be more than 300 years old, and some re- 
 markably fine larches ; and in the village are to be seen 
 a sycamore and horse-chesnut tree of extraordinary 
 dimensions. The substrata are limestone, red sandstone, 
 and conglomerate : the limestone occurs in masses not 
 more than a foot in thickness, and of great hardness ; 
 the sandstone is of good quality for building, but not 
 extensively worked. Large boulders of trap and granite 
 are scattered over the surface of several of the lands. 
 Coal is found in the upper parts of the parish, and there 
 are two mines, but not at present in operation. The 
 seats are Skeldon and Hollybush, both of them hand- 
 some residences seated in richly-planted demesnes. 
 280 
 
 The village is beautifully situated, and is uniformly 
 and neatly built on lands belonging to the Marquess of 
 Ailsa. A subscription library, a musical society, a curl- 
 ing club, and a club in honour of the poet Burns, have 
 been established here, and are well attended. Several 
 of the inhabitants are occupied in the various trades 
 requisite for the wants of the neighbourhood ; and a 
 woollen manufactory, employing about thirty persons, 
 has been erected on the bank of the Doon. Ecclesias- 
 tically the parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, synod of 
 Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the Crown : 
 the minister's stipend is £'2'i9. 17-, with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued atfl^. 10. per annum. Dalrymple church, 
 situated near the village, was rebuilt on the foundation 
 of the ancient edifice, in 1764, but in a very insufficient 
 manner. The parochial school affords education to 
 about sixty scholars ; the master has a salary of £30, 
 with £25 fees, and £8 in lieu of a house and garden. 
 There are some remains of the ancient castles of Kerse, 
 Skeldon, Barbieston, and others ; that of Barbieston 
 was converted into a dwelling-house about fifty or sixty 
 years since. Part of a Roman road, supposed to be that 
 from Solway Firth to the Firth of Clyde, may be traced 
 through this parish into that of Ayr. A tripod of Roman 
 bronze was found in Lindston loch, near the line of this 
 road, about half a century since ; and a flagon of earth- 
 enware of Roman w orkmanship was found at Perclewan, 
 on the same line of road, in 1833. On the road from 
 Ayr to Maybole are three ancient circular forts, situated 
 on an elevated ridge, and all surrounded with trenches, 
 in which human bones and the horns of deer have been 
 discovered. A stone coffin, containing a skeleton of 
 large stature, was dug up in cutting through a hillock of 
 gravel to form a new- approach to Skeldon House ; and 
 in the meadows of Barbieston, not far from the same 
 spot, were several cairns, on the removal of which, hu- 
 man bones, heads of pikes, and spears were found. In 
 a grave in the churchyard, several silver coins of James I. 
 were found a few years since ; and silver coins of Ed- 
 ward I. and Edward III. were discovered by the plough, 
 in a field near the village, in 1835. The poet Burns, 
 alternately with his brother, attended the parochial 
 school of Dalrymple. 
 
 DALSERF, a parish, in the Middle ward of the /t 
 county of Lanark; including the villages of Millheugh, 
 Larkhall, and Rosebank, and containing 3'205 inhabit- y jf^fj^ 
 ants, of whom 112 are in the village of Dalserf, 7 miles ' ^ 
 (S. E. by E.) from Hamilton. This place has been sup- ^ 
 posed to derive its name from the Gaehc Dal, signifying 
 "a holm" or "flat field ", and Sarf, "a serpent", making 
 together the term "the field of serpents". The parish 
 was anciently called Machanshire, but assumed the name 
 of Dalserf, as is generally thought, about the time of the 
 Reformation, through the removal of the church from 
 the former site, at Chapelburn, to a new site on the 
 banks of the Clyde. It was originally an appendage and 
 chapelry to Cadzow, now Hamilton, parish, and during 
 a long period was the property of the crown. The 
 celebrated family of the Cumyns had for some time 
 possession of it ; but it reverted to the crown in the reign 
 of Baliol, and in 1312 Robert Bruce made a grant of 
 it to Sir Walter, son of Gilbert, ancestor of the Hamilton 
 family, who have retained the principal estates in the 
 parish to the present time. In the fourteenth century 
 the district was made a barony, called the barony of
 
 D A L S 
 
 D A L S 
 
 Machane or Machanshire. The Harniltons prominently 
 appear in Scottish history ; they warmly espoused the 
 cause of Mary, Queen of Scots, and several of them were 
 engaged in her wars, and afterwards suffered severely 
 for the part they had taken in them. 
 
 The PARISH is six miles and a half in extreme 
 length, and varies in breadth from two miles to four 
 and a half, containing 7-19 acres. It is bounded on the 
 east and north-east by the river Clyde, and on the west 
 and the south-west by the Avon and the Gander re- 
 spectively. In the centre of the parish the surface is 
 tolerably level ; but on the east towards the Clyde, and 
 on the west towards the Avon, the fall is consider- 
 able, and in many places somewhat abrupt : the slope 
 towards the north is continuous, and far more gradual 
 than the falls on the eastern and western sides. The 
 view on the north and north-west is terminated by the 
 Campsie hills and the mountains of Dumbartonshire 
 and Argyllshire ; the view on the south is bounded by 
 Tinto, of which, with its circumjacent scenery, a very 
 fine prospect may be had from the high lands in this 
 parish. Large numbers of pheasants and woodcocks, 
 and some black-cocks, are to be seen here ; and at the 
 close of autumn, many flocks of plovers from the moor- 
 lands visit the wheat-fields. The chief rivers are the 
 Clyde and the Avon ; the Cander, which is the next in 
 size, falls into the Avon, and gives the name of the dis- 
 trict of Cander to that part of the parish inclosed by it, 
 where there are some superior farms. Numerous burns 
 rise in the parish, and breaking forth from the high 
 ridge on the western side of the river Clyde, dash in 
 many places with great impetuosity over the abrupt 
 sandstone rocks, making several beautiful cascades. After 
 this they run on till they fall into the Clyde river. The 
 ravines formed by these waterfalls, which are swollen 
 in some parts of the year and frequently dry in others, 
 are clothed with foliage, and stretching across the 
 country obliquely to the two great rivers, diversify the 
 scenery, and add considerably to the striking views on 
 the Clyde. The river Avon, also, has clusters of verdant 
 knolls and many clumps of rich plantation on its preci- 
 pitous sides. The principal streams contain salmon, 
 trout, salmon-fry, and par, which, however, bear at pre- 
 sent no proportion to their former numbers, owing to 
 the machinery erected on the banks of the Clyde, from 
 which the residuum of chemical and dyeing operations 
 runs into the waters ; the drainage of lime manure from 
 contiguous lands ; and other causes. 
 
 The SOIL varies considerably throughout the parish. 
 The low ground in the neighbourhood of the rivers is 
 mostly rich alluvial deposit, consisting chiefly of sand 
 and mud of great depth, resting upon a subsoil of sand 
 and gravel. In the higher lands near the Glasgow and 
 Carlisle road, and above the village of Dalserf, which 
 stands about 120 feet above the level of the sea, the soil 
 is a strong heavy clay, lying upon a compact tenacious 
 subsoil of till. In some places are strips of sandy 
 earth ; and in others, especially near the Avon, the 
 grounds are chiefly loam. The southern part contains 
 a few acres of moss ; but, with this exception, the 
 whole parish is cultivated. The chief crops are wheat 
 and oats, the soil iu general not being considered suited 
 to green crops, though in some parts very good pota- 
 toes, turnips, carrots, and beet-root are produced. 
 Great attention is paid to dairy-farming ; the cows 
 Vol. I.— 281 
 
 are chiefly of the Ayrshire breed, and about 500 are 
 kept. Much competition exists in the improvement of 
 every description of live stock, for which premiums 
 have been awarded to some of the farmers by the High- 
 land and Agricultural Society of Scotland. The culti- 
 vation of orchards also forms an important part of the 
 rural occupations, the parish being situated in about 
 the centre of the great range of fruit plantations in 
 Clydesdale. A few acres of fruit-trees are cultivated 
 on the banks of the Avon ; but the chief plantations 
 are near the Clyde, among the acclivities overlooking 
 the river, which are too abrupt and rugged to admit 
 the approach of the plough. Apples, pears, and plums 
 of every kind grow luxuriantly, the plum range, how- 
 ever, only extending a distance of three or four miles 
 along the river. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £7704. The rocks consist of sandstone 
 and freestone, of the latter of which several excellent 
 quarries are wrought. Large quantities of coal, also, 
 are obtained in every direction, the district forming a 
 part of the great coal basin stretching from near Glas- 
 gow in the north, for a distance of about thirty miles, 
 to the water of Douglas in the south. The produce of 
 the collieries, some years ago, was about 16,000 tons 
 annually, but it is now much more considerable. 
 
 The chief mansions are Dalserf, Millburn, and Broom- 
 hill, all of which are respectable structures, standing in 
 the midst of beautiful scenery. The villages are consi- 
 derable, and together contain about two-thirds of the 
 population of the parish. Some of the inhabitants are 
 engaged in the manufacture of cotton, the weaving of 
 which is superintended by agents employed by Glasgow- 
 firms ; and many females are occupied in the manufac- 
 ture of lace, for the houses at Hamilton. Among the 
 roads that intersect the parish are, one from Glasgow to 
 Carlisle, another from Glasgow to Lanark, and a third 
 from Edinburgh to Ayr, which crosses the river Clyde 
 at Garion Bridge. For ecclesiastical purposes the pa- 
 rish is within the bounds of the presbytery of Hamilton, 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The stipend averages about 
 £264, and the Duke of Hamilton is patron : there is an 
 old manse, with a glebe worth £37. 10. per annum. Dal- 
 serf church, which is beautifully though somewhat in- 
 conveniently situated on the bank of the Clyde, was built 
 in 1655, and repaired in 1721 ; it contains 550 sittings. 
 There are two parochial schools, one of which is in the 
 village of Dalserf, and the other at Larkhall ; the 
 classics, mathematics, French, with all the usual branches 
 of education, are taught, and the master of the Dalserf 
 school has a salary of £34, with a house and garden. 
 A good subscription library has been established at 
 Larkhall, and another at Dalserf with 120 volumes. 
 The chief relics of antiquity are two tumuli, in one of 
 which, situated at Dalpatrick, some workmen a few 
 years ago found a stone coffin, about two feet and a half 
 long and a foot and a half wide, in which was deposited 
 an urn containing a human jaw with the teeth, and 
 other bones. Another urn was also found, of very 
 superior materials and construction, near which was a 
 lamp of baked clay. The remains of mounds with for- 
 tifications, and cairns, may still be faintly traced ; and 
 some years ago an earthen pot was dug up at MiU- 
 heugh, containing coins of Elizabeth, James I., and 
 Charles I. There are several chalybeate springs, and 
 one or two springs impregnated with sulphur. 
 
 2 O
 
 D ALT 
 
 D A L Z 
 
 DALSHOLM, a village, in the parish of New Kil- 
 PATRiCK, county of Dumbarton ; containing 111 inha- 
 bitants. 
 " .. DALSWINTON, a village, in the parish of Kirk- 
 
 ''*'^*^ MAHOE, county of Dumfries, 4^ miles (X. N. W.) from 
 Dumfries ; containing ^i inhabitants. It is situated in 
 the western part of the parish, and though a small, is 
 an improving village, of recent origin. Here stood the 
 ancient castle of Dalswinton, long the chief seat of the 
 family of Gumming, and on the site of which an elegant 
 and commodious mansion was erected by the late 
 Patrick Miller, Esq., to whose taste and judgment the 
 neighbourhood is indebted for its rapid improvement. 
 Mr. Miller, about the year 1"S0, introduced the culture 
 of the Swedish turnip. It was first sown by him on his 
 estate at Dalswinton, and propagated from his original 
 plants through the Lothians and elsewhere ; and to his 
 example is owing the successful cultivation of this valu- 
 able esculent throughout the empire. The first applica- 
 tion of the steam-engine to the purposes of navigation, 
 was made by Mr. Miller in I'Sfci, on a piece of water in 
 his own grounds here. A vessel twenty-five feet long 
 and seven broad, with two wheels, and propelled by a 
 small engine constructed by Mr. Symington, was em- 
 ployed for the purpose; and the success of the experi- 
 ment led to the well-knowii exhibition, under the same 
 auspices, of a full-sized vessel, on the Forth and Clyde 
 canal, in the following year. The fine estate of Dalswin- 
 ton is now in the possession of Captain Miller, son of 
 this gentleman, and formerly M.P. for the county. 
 f!f DALTON, a parish, in the county of Dumfries; con- 
 taining 658 inhabitants, of whom 54 are in the village, 
 6 miles (W. by S.) from Ecclesfechan. The name is 
 derived from the Anglo-Saxon term Dal-ton, or Dal-duii, 
 signifying " the fort in the dale", and appears to have 
 been applied on account of a fort in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood of the village of Dalton, at which village 
 baronial courts were held in ancient times. The parish 
 is seven miles long from north to south, and three broad, 
 and contains 6/53 acres. It is bounded on the north- 
 east by the river Annan, in which great quantities of 
 salmon, grilse, sea-trout, and whiting are taken, though 
 they are far from being so numerous as formerly, in 
 consequence of stake-nets having been placed at the 
 mouth of the river, in the Solway Firth. There is much 
 variety of hill and dale in the parish, and extensive 
 views are obtained from the more elevated situations : 
 on the south are seen the Solway Firth, studded with 
 vessels, and, in the distance, the Cumberland hills. The 
 soil to a great extent is alluvial, consisting chiefly of 
 gravel and sand, spread over the lowlands, and formed 
 into ranges and groups of little hills. In the higher 
 lands the soil is mainly composed of the svaste and 
 debris of the transition rocks, but is tolerably fertile, 
 and the transported soil on the banks of the river is 
 exceedingly productive. The whole is cultivated, with 
 the exception of 600 acres which are waste or pasture, 
 and 517 acres in wood; all kinds of crops are raised, 
 and the improved system of husbandry is adopted, 
 though varied by different farmers in the rotation of 
 crops. The cattle are of the black GaUoway breed, and 
 the few sheep that are reared consist of Cheviots and 
 Leicesters. The produce of the soil is usually sent to 
 Annan, seven miles distant, where is a weekly market. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £4031. 
 289 
 
 The chief mansion is that of Dormont, an elegant and 
 commodious structure built in the year 1823, situated on 
 the bank of the Annan, and ornamented with beautiful 
 grounds and plantations. Another mansion, that of 
 Rammerscales, occupies a romantic site upon a hilly 
 range, surrounded with overhanging wood, and com- 
 manding the whole vale of Annan. A third house, called 
 Kirkwood, and which, like both of the preceding, is of 
 modern erection, is also entitled to notice. The principal 
 village is Dalton, the communication of which with the 
 nearest market-towns is convenient, not only by the 
 parish roads, but by the great turnpike-road from Carlisle 
 to Portpatrick, which passes through the south end of 
 the parish. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Lochmaben and synod of Dumfries ; pa- 
 tron, David Sanderaan, Esq. The stipend of the minister 
 is £171. 12., and there is a manse, with a glebe of ten 
 acres, valued at £10 per annum. Dalton church, situ- 
 ated in the village, was built in 1704, and will accom- 
 modate 300 persons. In the churchyard is a handsome 
 sepulchral monument to the Rosses of Halkhead, in the 
 county of Renfrew, who were resident in the parish for 
 a considerable period. There is a parochial school, at 
 which French, the classics, and practical mathematics, 
 with the usual branches of education, are taught ; the 
 master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, 
 and about £20 fees. The only relics of antiquity are, 
 the ruins of a castle at Holmains, formerly the residence 
 of the Carruthers ; and a camp of circular form on the 
 Almagill hills, now named Range Castle. The latter 
 stands upon a transition rock of greywacke, and is a 
 beautiful specimen of this class of military works ; its 
 diameter is 102 yards, and the fosse which encompasses 
 it is nine feet deep, and twenty-seven broad. The late 
 Sir Andrew Halliday, physician to the Duke of Clarence, 
 afterwards William IV., was a native of the parish. 
 
 DALVAIT, a village, in the parish of Boxhill, 
 county of Dumbarton ; containing 71 inhabitants. 
 
 DALZIEL, a parish, in the Middle ward of the county 7> 
 of Lanark, 2^ miles (E. N. E.) from Hamilton; con- 
 taining, with the villages of Motherwell and Windmill- 
 Hill, 1457 inhabitants. The parish of Dalziel is bj' some 
 writers supposed to have derived that appellation, signi- 
 fying " the white meadow", from the pecuLar appearance 
 of the lands before they were brought into cultivation. 
 It is said to have given name to the family upon whom 
 the barony of Dalziel was bestowed at a period which 
 cannot now be accurately determined. In 1365, Sir 
 Robert Dalzell obtained a grant of the barony of Sel- 
 kirk from David Bruce, whose firm adherent he had 
 been in his troubles, and to whom he manifested the 
 truest loyalty during the king's captivity in England. 
 He appears to have subsequently incurred the displea- 
 sure of his sovereign, and the estate of Dalziel was given 
 to the family of Sandilands, or, as some say, that of 
 Fleming. By the marriage, however, of a member of the 
 new family to the heir-male of Sir Robert Dalzell, the 
 estate returned to the original proprietors, and con- 
 tinued in their sole possession until the death of an 
 owner who left two daughters. One of these conveyed 
 her share by marriage to the nearest heir of the family, 
 and eventually the whole estate was once more held by 
 the Dalzells, till a branch of the Hamilton family came 
 in the place of these ancient owners.
 
 D A LZ 
 
 D A RG 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the north and west by the 
 river Calder, and on the south-west by the river Clyde. 
 It is about four miles in length and three in breadth, 
 comprising an area of about 2SS0 acres, of which about 
 one-tenth is pasture, 520 acres woodland and plantations, 
 and the remainder arable. The surface rises gradually 
 from the Clyde and the Calder towards the centre, where 
 it forms a flat ridge, averaging 200 feet in elevation 
 above the sea; and the parish is diversified with several 
 glens of romantic appearance, one of which, called Dal- 
 ziel glen, is about two miles in length. The river Clyde 
 is subject to great inundations, to prevent which an em- 
 bankment has been constructed. The Calder is here 
 about sixty feet in breadth ; it takes its rise in the 
 neighbouring parish of Shotts, and falls into the Clyde 
 near the extremity of this parish. The Dalziel burn has 
 its source in the parish of Cambusnethan, and, flowing 
 through the glen of Dalziel, falls into the Clyde. In 
 general the soil is a stiff clay, but on the banks of the 
 rivers a rich loam ; the crops are oats, wheat, beans, and 
 peas. There are several large dairy-farms ; the cows 
 are chiefly of the Ayrshire breed, and a few horses and 
 sheep are reared. On the banks of the Clyde are some 
 orchards, the principal of which produces on an average 
 about £600 per annum ; an improved method of pruning 
 has been introduced with success, and great attention is 
 paid to the cultivation of the trees. The plantations 
 consist of fir, larch, oak, ash, elm, lime, and plane : a 
 fine avenue nearly a mile in length extends along the 
 banks of the Clyde, and near the mansion-house of 
 Dalziel is a venerable oak, measuring twenty-one feet in 
 girth at a distance of nearly five feet from the ground. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £4983. 
 
 The substratum of the lands is principally clay-slate, 
 interspersed with freestone of various quality, among 
 which is found a seam of flagstone. A quarry of hard- 
 grained freestone has been opened near Windmill-Hill, 
 which is wrought into mantel-pieces, and is susceptible 
 of a high polish ; and near the village of Craignenk is a 
 valuable quarry of flagstone, the stone of a reddish colour, 
 and varying from one-quarter of an inch to five inches 
 in thickness. Coal abounds in the parish, which is 
 situated nearly in the centre of the coal district of the 
 Clyde ; the only mine in operation is near Coursington. 
 Dalziel House, erected in 1649 by an ancestor of the 
 present proprietor, is beautifully situated on the north 
 side of the Dalziel burn, and in the most picturesque 
 part of the romantic glen to which that stream gives 
 name. The building has all the character of an ancient 
 baronial residence, and attached to it is a tower about 
 fifty feet high, the walls of which are eight feet thick ; 
 the several apartments are commodious, and in the 
 dining-room are numerous family portraits, including 
 portraits of Sir John Hamilton, of Orbiston, and Lord 
 Westhall, one of the senators of the College of Justice. 
 There is a small foundry for the manufacture of spades, 
 in which about fifteen persons are employed. Means of 
 communication with the neighbouring market-towns are 
 afforded by good roads, among which is one from Glasgow 
 to Lanark ; the Wishaw and Coltness railway passes for 
 nearly three miles through the parish, and is joined at 
 Motherwell by the Clydesdale Junction railway. Both 
 the lines of railway are in connexion with the great 
 Caledonian company. 
 283 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Hamilton, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patron- 
 age of J. G. C. Hamilton, Esq. The minister's stipend 
 is £1.55. 11., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £50 per 
 annum. Dalziel church, dedicated to St. Patrick, was in 
 the twelfth century granted with its revenues to the 
 abbey of Paisley, and subsequently to the dean and 
 chapter of Glasgow, in whose possession it continued to 
 the Reformation. The ancient building, which was of 
 the same date as the cathedral of Glasgow, was taken 
 down about ten years after the erection of the present 
 church, which was built in 1789, and is a neat cruciform 
 structure. The members of the Free Church have a 
 place of worship. The parochial school affords a good 
 education; the master has a salary of £34, with £18 
 fees, and a house and garden. 
 
 The western branch of the Roman Watling-street 
 entered this parish at Meadowhead, and passed through 
 it in a direction from east to west. Till within the last 
 twenty or thirty years a considerable portion of it re- 
 mained, in a high state of preservation ; but it has been 
 obliterated by the construction of the modern road from 
 Glasgow to Lanark, and no trace of it can be at present 
 discerned. Near the north-west boundary of the parish 
 is a very ancient bridge over the river Calder, still called 
 the Roman bridge ; it consists of a single arch of great 
 height, is about twelve feet in breadth, and without 
 parapets. This bridge is supposed to have formed a 
 continuation of the Roman road into the parish of Both- 
 well. Close to it was a Roman camp, which has for 
 many years been destroyed ; and nearly in the centre of 
 the parish, on the steep bank of the river Clyde, are the 
 remains of another, of which portions of the ancient 
 fosses may still be traced. On the site of this camp, 
 about a century since, the proprietor erected a summer- 
 house, round which he formed terrace-walks and plan- 
 tations, and from the summit of which a fine panoramic 
 view of the surrounding country is obtained, combining 
 many of the most interesting features of Scottish scenery. 
 Near the site of Nisbet House, is one of the stones at 
 which the ancient barons dispensed justice to their 
 vassals ; it is of heptagonal form, and one of the 
 faces is ornamented with the representation of a sword. 
 There were formerly two others in the parish, near 
 the site of the Roman road ; they have both been . 
 removed. 
 
 DAMHEAD, or Jametson, in the county of Dum- 
 barton. — See Jametson. , 
 
 DAMHEAD, a village, in the parish of Arngask, y iJXmJ^ 
 counties of Fife, Kinross, and Perth, 5 miles (S. W.) *■ ' 
 
 from Abernethy ; containing 138 inhabitants, of whom 
 56 are in the Fifeshire, 24 in the Kinross-shire, and 58 
 in the Perthshire, portion. This village is situated in 
 the central part of the parish, and in the vale through 
 which the great north road passes, leading from Edin- 
 burgh to Aberdeen by way of Perth. A sub-post-office 
 was established here in 1838, in connexion with the 
 post-offices of Kinross and Bridge-of-Earn. 
 
 DANESHALT, county Fife.— See Dunshelt. 
 
 DARGIE, a hamlet, in the parish of Life, county 
 of Perth, 3 miles (W.) from Dundee; containing 32 
 inhabitants. It is in that portion of the parish which 
 formed the ancient parish of Invcrgowrie, now united, 
 with Benvie, to Liff ; and is about a mile west-by-south 
 of Invergowrie church. 
 
 2 2
 
 DA VI 
 
 DA VI 
 
 tJ^ 
 
 ( DARLINGSHAUGH, a village, in the late quoad 
 
 sacra parish of Ladhope, parish of Melrose, county of 
 Roxburgh, 4 miles (W.) from Melrose ; containing 1116 
 inhabitants. This village is beautifully situated on the 
 Gala water, and, though within the parish of Melrose, 
 may be regarded as an appendage to Galashields, in the 
 manufactures of which a considerable number of the 
 population is employed. Great facility of intercourse is 
 afforded by the Edinburgh and Hawick railway. A 
 school-house has been built by the heritors. 
 
 DARNICK, a village, in the parish and district of 
 Melrose, county of Roxburgh, 1 mile (W. byN.) from 
 Melrose ; containing 280 inhabitants. It is pleasantly 
 seated in the vale of Melrose, and the population is 
 chiefly employed in agriculture. The Edinburgh and 
 Hawick railway passes here. A school house has been 
 built by the heritors for the instruction of the poorer 
 children. 
 
 DARVEL, a village, in the parish of Loudoun, dis- 
 trict of CuNNiNGHAME, couuty of Ayr, 1^ mile (E.) 
 from Newmilns ; containing 1362 inhabitants. This is 
 a considerable place, and it would seem that several 
 lands here formerly belonged to the Knights Templars, 
 as many of them still bear the name of Temple, and do 
 not hold of any superior, not even of the crown. A 
 large part of the population is engaged in hand-loom 
 weaving, the children assisting in the minor branches of 
 the manufacture. The Reformed Presbyterians have a 
 place of worship ; and there is a school partly supported 
 by the noble family of Hastings, and the master of which 
 is allowed a dwelling-house and garden. Near the village 
 is a place called Glen Chapel, but there remains no 
 vestige of a religious edifice ; and in the vicinity are the 
 ruins of an ancient castle. 
 
 DAVID, ST., a village and sea-port, in the parish of 
 Dalgety, district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 
 1 mile (E. N. E.) from North Queensferry ; containing 15.5 
 inhabitants. This little sea-port, which is situated on 
 the Firth of Forth, owes its origin to the Fordel collieries, 
 in the parish, belonging to Admiral Sir P. H. Durham, 
 G.C.B., by whom great improvements were made in it, 
 for the more expeditious and convenient shipping of the 
 coal so largely obtained. The harbour, which, from 
 what remains of the original works, seems to have been 
 badly constructed, was improved by the proprietor at 
 an expense of £2000, and now affords safe anchorage to 
 ships of 500 tons' burthen, which may load and deliver 
 their cargoes on the beach. There are extensive salt- 
 works : the salt water, at flood-tides, is forced by a steam- 
 engine into a capacious reservoir, whence, after depositing 
 its residuum of sand, it is conveyed in a purified state 
 into large pans, producing annually about 30,000 bushels 
 of salt. The Fordel collieries are now closed. 
 
 DAVID, ST., a hamlet, in the parish of Maderty, 
 county of Perth ; containing 65 inhabitants. 
 
 DAVIDSON'S-MAINS, a village, in the parish of 
 Cramond, county of Edinburgh, 2^ miles (N. N. W.) 
 from Edinburgh ; containing 470 inhabitants. This 
 place, also called Muttonhole, is situated on the road 
 from Edinburgh to Cramond ; and in its vicinity is 
 Muirhouse, the seat of Dr. Davidson, who allows the 
 teacher of a school a salary of ten guineas per annum, 
 ("ft DAVIOT, a parish, in the district of Garioch, 
 county of Aberdeen, 4 miles (N. \V.) from Old Mel- 
 drum ; containing 643 inhabitants. This parish is sup- 
 284 
 
 posed to derive its name from the Gaelic term dabhoch, 
 which signifies a piece of land sufficient for the pasture 
 of a certain number of cows. Its length is about three 
 miles, and the average breadth two ; but it was aug- 
 mented ecclesiastically by act of assembly at the close 
 of the seventeenth century, by the annexation of parts 
 of the parishes of Fyvie and Chapel of Garioch, and, 
 including this addition, it covers about eight square 
 miles. The civil parish comprises 5250 acres, of which 
 the whole is in tillage, with the exception of a few acres 
 in wood, and a little moss. Its surface is agreeably 
 diversified by a ridge of gentle undulations, passing 
 through the centre, from north to south, and accom- 
 panied on each side by a ridge of inferior elevation, 
 also slightly undulated. The soil exhibits several varie- 
 ties ; that on the higher grounds is thin and gravelly, 
 and on the descent a rich loamy earth rests on a clayey 
 subsoil, while the lower parts are to a considerable 
 extent covered with a shallow peaty soil, incumbent on 
 a bluish clay. The several sorts of grain, with the 
 exception of wheat, are raised, of good quality ; but the 
 soil is best adapted to oats, and various kinds of them 
 are cultivated, especially those denominated Scotch 
 barley and the early Angus. Green crops of all descrip- 
 tions likewise grow luxuriantly. Very few sheep are 
 reared, but much attention is paid to cattle, in conse- 
 quence of the facilities afforded by steam navigation for 
 sending them to the London market : the breed was 
 formerly the Aberdeenshire, but a great improvement 
 has been made of late years, by crossing this with the 
 short-horned. A seven years' rotation is generally prac- 
 tised, and other modern usages of husbandry have been 
 introduced ; much waste land has been drained and 
 cultivated, and there is now very little waste remaining. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish of Daviot 
 is £3250. 
 
 The substrata comprise whinstone and inferior granite, 
 and ironstone exists in considerable quantities, but the 
 distance from coal-mines renders the working of it 
 impracticable. The plantations consist chiefly of Scotch 
 fir and larch, which, however, rarely attain to a great 
 size, manifesting symptoms of decay at about the age of 
 forty years. Beech, elm, and ash are in some parts 
 interspersed with the fir ; trees of this description ap- 
 pear to be better suited to the soil, and grow in some 
 places in a very thriving manner, especially around the 
 mansion of Glack. Besides this residence there is a 
 handsome mansion in the parish on the estate of Fin- 
 gask, built in 1S34. The inhabitants are engaged in 
 husbandry, with the exception of a very small number 
 who work at a manufactory for carding and spinning 
 wool, which was some time since established here by 
 an enterprising individual to whom the board for the 
 encouragement of manufactures granted a premium for 
 his exertions. There is considerable facility of commu- 
 nication : a road runs past the church from north to 
 south, and in the latter direction forms two branches, 
 one leading to Old Meldrum, and the other to Inverury 
 five miles distant. A turnpike-road, also, traversing the 
 east and north sides of the parish, was formed in 1835, 
 to connect the east and west branches of the great north 
 road from Aberdeen to Inverness ; it runs from Old 
 Meldrum to Sheelagreen, in the parish of Culsamond. 
 Another road was finished in 1839, on which a coach 
 travels daily between Aberdeen and Huntly.
 
 DA VI 
 
 DA VI 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Garioch, synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of 
 the Crown. The minister's stipend is £159, of which 
 about a sixth is received from the exchequer; with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £1^ per annum. Daviot 
 was formerly a prebend iu the diocese of Aberdeen, and 
 is said to have been assigned to the bishop as an alms- 
 gift by Malcolm Canmore ; the present church was built 
 in 1798, and accommodates 400 persons. The paro- 
 chial school affords instruction in the classics, mathe- 
 matics, and book-keeping, in addition to the elementary 
 branches : the master has a salary of £30, with a house, 
 and £20 fees ; he also shares in the Dick bequest. The 
 principal relic of antiquity is a Druidical temple in fine 
 preservation, on the lands of Mounie, near the church. 
 A battle-axe was dug up in 1833, supposed to have been 
 used at the battle of Harlaw, fought in 1411, in the 
 adjoining parish of Chapel of Garioch ; and some years 
 since, a silver coin of the reign of Elizabeth, a little 
 larger than a shilling, was found in a garden, on the 
 site of the old manse. 
 n> DAVIOT and DUNLICHTY, a parish, chiefly in 
 the county of Inverness, and partly in that of Nairn, 
 5 miles (S. E.) from Inverness; containing 1681 inha- 
 bitants. These two ancient parishes were united about 
 the year I6l8: the former received its appellation, as 
 is supposed, from David, Earl of Crawfurd, who built 
 a fort here ; and the latter, which is by far the larger 
 division, derives its name from the dun-le-catti, or "hill 
 of the Catti ", which bisects the territory formerly held 
 by the Catti, whose descendants now possess nearly 
 the whole lands. At Tordarroch, in the district of Dun- 
 lichty, the Earl of Moray caused 500 men of the clan 
 Chattan to be hanged in a barn in one day, about the 
 year 1.532, for various acts of spoliation committed in 
 his territory. They had been captured by stratagem, 
 the earl having assembled them under pretence of hold- 
 ing a feudal court ; and to each, while being led to the 
 gallows, pardon was offered upon condition of their 
 betraying Hector Mackintosh, under whose command 
 they had acted. The greater part of Drummossie moor, 
 where the celebrated and decisive battle of CuUoden was 
 fought on the I6th of April, 1/46, is situated in this 
 parish, as well as the spot on which the prince stood 
 during the engagement : the prince afterwards, with a 
 few friends, crossed the river Nairn above the Mains 
 of Daviot, and passing by Tordarroch, advanced to 
 Gorthleck in Stratherrick. 
 
 The PARISH of Daviot and Dunlichty, the boundary 
 line of which is very irregular, stretches along each side 
 of the river Nairn, from north-east to south-west, for 
 about twenty-five miles, and varies in breadth from one 
 and a half to four or five miles. It comprises about 
 4000 acres under cultivation, 1500 natural pasture, 830 
 of natural wood, and above 22/0 of plantations. The 
 surface is for the most part wild and dreary. It con- 
 sists principally of the valley of Strathnairn, extending 
 from Wester Aberchalder on the south-west to the 
 bridge of Daviot on the Highland road, where the vale 
 contracts itself almost to a point, and terminates in 
 a steep narrow glen. The hills on the south-eastern 
 boundary are a continued chain, forming the northern 
 range of the Muuadh-Leagh mountains, and attaining 
 an elevation of from 1000 to 2000 feet above the level 
 of the sea. On the west and north-west the boundary 
 285 
 
 consists of an abrupt ridge 1500 feet high, containing a 
 series of lakes, some of them celebrated for their deli- 
 cious trout ; while on the north and north-eastern limit 
 is the sandstone ridge called Drimmashie or Drummossie 
 moor, at the eastern end of which the battle of Culloden 
 was fought. The scenery is generally uninteresting, 
 though occasionally romantic ; the mountains are either 
 bare rock, or covered with coarse grass, and the lower 
 grounds are to a considerable extent mossy tracts, 
 shaded by sombre woods and plantations. The stream 
 of the Nairn, however, introduces some variety, and in 
 its course to the town of Nairn, where it falls into the 
 Moray Firth, after a course of thirty-six miles from its 
 source at Cairn-Gregor, in the south-west part of Dun- 
 lichty, renders the aspect of the country in many places 
 agreeable and interesting. 
 
 The SOIL exhibits several varieties, being in some 
 parts light and sandy, in others wet and spongy, with a 
 clayey bottom ; and frequently black mossy earth is to 
 be seen, with different admixtures and modifications. 
 The crops which succeed best are oats and barley ; but 
 since the recent improvements in husbandry, comprising 
 draining on an extensive scale, liming, inclosing, and 
 the rotation system of cropping, wheat of good quality 
 has been grown, and the agricultural character of the 
 parish has attained a respectable footing. Many earthen 
 embankments have been raised along the river, as a 
 security against floods, which have sometimes done 
 much damage to the lands. The rock in the hills 
 bounding the valley consists chiefly of grey gneiss, and 
 large blocks of white granite are found loose upon the 
 tops and sides of most of them : conglomerate, red and 
 grey granite, and limestone are also to be seen in the 
 parish. A bed of marl, which has been successfully 
 used as manure, was lately discovered on the south 
 bank of Loch Bunachton, about seven feet below the 
 surface, and having a depth of from five to six feet. The 
 old plantations are of common Scotch fir, with a few 
 larclies, and cover about 1020 acres ; there are others 
 of Scotch fir, larch, ash, oak, and beech. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £5288. The seats 
 are, Daviot, a commodious modern structure ; the house 
 of Farr, which has lately received some elegant additions ; 
 and Aberarder, also a modern mansion. The road from 
 Edinburgh to Inverness passes through the parish, and 
 with the latter town the inhabitants carry on their chief 
 traffic. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of In- 
 verness, synod of Moray, and in the alternate patronage 
 of the Crown and Earl Cawdor : the minister's stipend 
 is £187, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 per 
 annum. There are two churches, about seven miles 
 distant from each other, in which public worship is 
 usually performed alternately. The church at Daviot is 
 about four miles from the eastern, and that at Dun- 
 lichty twelve miles from the western, boundary : the 
 former, with seats for 500 persons, was built in 1826, at 
 a cost of nearly £1000 ; and the latter, containing seats 
 for 300 perscms, was built in 1759, and repaired in 1826. 
 There are also an episcopal chapel, and a jjlace of wor- 
 ship for members of the Free Church. A parochial 
 school is situated in each of the districts, and affords in- 
 struction in the ordinary branches ; the salary of each 
 master is £25, with £11 and £9 fees respectively. The 
 poor receive the interest of £400 left by William Mac-
 
 DEAN 
 
 DEER 
 
 gillivray in 1S33. Near the mansion of Daviot, is the 
 ruin of a seat which appears to have been originally of 
 great strength ; and there are remains of Druidical 
 temples in several places. 
 
 DEAN, formerly a quoad sacra parish, partly in the 
 parish of Corstorphine, but chiefly in that of St. 
 CuTHBERT, Edinburgh, county of Edinburgh ; con- 
 taining 2262 inhabitants, of whom 108 are in Corstor- 
 phine, and 2154 in St. Cuthbert's. This place, now 
 somewhat decayed, is situated on the north bank of the 
 Water of Leith, and forms a western suburb of the city 
 of Edinburgh, from which it is distant about three- 
 quarters of a mile. The village stands on the Edinburgh 
 and Queensferry road, on both sides of which it once 
 stood. In its vicinity is Dean bridge, a superb and stu- 
 pendous structure, thrown over the ravine of the Water 
 of Leith, and having four arches, each ninety feet in 
 span, and of corresponding height from the stream ; it 
 was completed in 1831, and from it is presented one of 
 the finest views in the neighbourhood of the city. Dean 
 House here, is a venerable mansion surrounded with fine 
 old trees, which failed not to attract the notice of Sir 
 Walter Scott. The parish was in the presbytery of 
 Edinburgh, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Dean 
 church, erected in 1836, and intended chiefly for the in- 
 habitants of the village of Water-of-Leith, and the sur- 
 rounding population, is in the later English style, and 
 contains 1030 sittings, of which thirty are free : the 
 stipend of the minister is £80, arising from seat-rents 
 and collections. There are also an episcopal chapel, and 
 a place of worship for members of the Free Church. 
 
 DEAN, a village, in the parish of Wilton, district 
 of Hawick, county of Roxburgh, 1 mile (W.) from 
 Hawick; containing 129 inhabitants. It is seated in 
 the southern part of the parish, and on a small stream, 
 a tributary to the river Teviot, which latter bounds the 
 parish on the south-east. 
 
 DEANBURNHAUGH, a village, in the parish of 
 Roberton, county of Roxburgh, S miles (W. by S.) 
 from Hawick ; containing S6 inhabitants. This place 
 is of very recent origin ; it is pleasantly situated on the 
 road from Eskdalemuir to Hawick, and on the west 
 side of the Borthwick water. The surrounding scenery 
 is agreeably diversified. 
 
 DE.\NSTON, formerly a quoad sacra parish, in the 
 parish of Kilmadock, county of Perth ; including the 
 hamlet of Murdoehston, and containing 1050 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom 982 are in the village of Deanston, 1 mile 
 (W.) from Doune. This place appears to have origi- 
 nated in the establishment of some cotton-works on 
 the south bank of the Teith, for which that copious and 
 powerful stream afforded ample advantages, and in the 
 consequent erection of a spacious village for the resi- 
 dence of the men employed in the concern. The village, 
 which consists of one wide street parallel to the river, is 
 regularly built : the houses are two stories high, with 
 attics ; they are roofed with slate, and whitewashed, 
 having a cleanly and cheerful aspect, and attached to 
 each of them is a neat garden. The works w-ere esta- 
 blished about the year 1786, by Messrs. Buchanan, of 
 Carston, brothers, the eldest of whom was the first agent 
 of Sir Richard Arkwright in Glasgow for the sale of 
 cotton-twist ; and under his superintendence the works 
 soon rose into importance for the spinning of yarn, 
 equal to the finest which has since been produced at 
 286 
 
 Manchester. In 1793 the works became the property 
 of Mr. Flounders, of the county of York, and subse- 
 quently of James Finlay and Co., of Glasgow, under 
 whom they were remodelled by Mr. Smith (the well- 
 known agriculturist), a nephew of Mr. Buchanan; and 
 in 1822 the company made arrangements with the neigh- 
 bouring proprietors, and obtained an additional quantity 
 of water-power. These extensive works are at present 
 driven by four water- wheels, of eighty-horse power each, 
 and afl'ord employment to 800 persons; the whole of 
 the establishment is lighted with gas, and thoroughly 
 ventilated. Attached is a schoolroom, erected by the 
 company, by whom a master is kept to instruct the 
 children employed in the factory, who attend the school 
 for three hours daily. Midway between Deanston and 
 Doune, the Teith is crossed by a substantial bridge, up- 
 wards of two centuries old, from which one of the finest 
 views in this part of the country may be obtained. 
 
 DEE, BRIDGE OF, a village, in the parish of Bal- 
 MAGHiE, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 3 miles (S.'W.) 
 from Castle-Douglas ; containing 243 inhabitants. It 
 derives its name from a bridge over the Dee, which 
 river bounds the parish on the east, and separates it 
 from the parish of Kelton. The lands in the neigh- 
 bourhood are the property of the Society for the Propa- 
 gation of Christian Knowledge. 
 
 DEER, NEW, a parish, in the district of Deer, /J? 
 county of Aberdeen, 6 miles (E. S. E.) from Cumines- 
 town ; containing, with the village of Kirktown of New 
 Deer, 3756 inhabitants. This parish originally formed 
 a part of Old Deer, and was separated from it about the 
 beginning of the seventeenth century ; it was at first 
 termed Auchreddy, from the land on which the church 
 is built, and this name is engraved on the communion- 
 plate, with the date 1694. The remains of castles and 
 various tumuli prove that it was once the scene of 
 military operations. Edward, brother to Robert Bruce, 
 is said to have encamped after the battle of Inverury on 
 a large moor about a mile westward of the village, and 
 thence to have gone in pursuit of the Cumyns to 
 Aikey-Brae, near Old Deer, on which spot a fair has 
 long been kept in commemoration of a battle fought 
 between them. The old castle of Fedderate, at present 
 in ruins, is believed to have been the retreat of some 
 followers of James II., who, being driven from Fyvie 
 Castle, which they had taken after the battle of KiUie- 
 crankie, sought a refuge in this fortress, whence they 
 were expelled by King William's troops. 
 
 The parish, which is one of the largest in the county, 
 is upwards of fourteen miles long, and upwards of eight 
 miles and a half broad, containing 29,020 acres. With 
 the e.xception of Morraond hill, it is the highest ground 
 in Buchan, its elevation being from 200 to 300 feet 
 above the sea. On a fine day, the spire of Peterhead 
 church, about eighteen miles to the east, may be seen 
 from the hill of Culsh ; and in a western direction, 
 Bennachie, which is nearly twenty-eight miles distant, 
 the Foudland hills, the Binhill near CuUen, with the 
 Knock Hill, Benrinnes, and others, are distinctly visible. 
 The surface is in general flat, and the elevation of the 
 land renders the climate cold, the operations of hus- 
 bandry being frequently delayed by the snow remaining 
 on the ground. Three branch streams rise in the 
 northern quarter of the parish, one of which flows east- 
 ward, passing Old Deer, and falling into the river Ugie ; 
 
 T
 
 DEER 
 
 DEER 
 
 another, running in a western direction, forms a con- 
 fluence with a stream that falls into the Doveron, while 
 the third, flowing towards the south-west, joins the 
 Ythan near Gight. The soil is light, and rests partly 
 on a subsoil of coarse clay, in other places on granite, 
 but chiefly on a bed from six inches to two feet thick, 
 altogether rocky and impervious, and holding the water 
 that falls upon the land till evaporated by the heat of 
 the sun. Almost the whole of the parish is arable, and 
 the chief grain cultivated is oats ; potatoes and hay are 
 grown in large quantities, as are also turnips. The 
 number of acres under tillage is 18,183 ; 1957 are in 
 pasture, 3587 heath, 4164 moss and moor, and 825 acres 
 occupied by wood. The system of cultivation differs in 
 the several parts of the parish, a five years' rotation of 
 crops being adopted in some places, and in others a 
 seven years' course. The Buchan breed of cattle is 
 much esteemed, especially when crossed by the Tees- 
 water. Considerable improvements have been made by 
 several of the large farmers, chiefly by reclaiming exten- 
 sive tracts of wet ground ; great improvements have 
 been made by Mr. Gordon of Nethermuir, and the 
 farm-houses, though still in some parts indifferent, are 
 much better than formerly. The rocks consist of coarse 
 granite and inferior limestone, which latter the farmers 
 excavate for themselves, and burn into lime for the pur- 
 poses of building or of agriculture. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £10,905. The village, 
 which is situated on the summit of a hill, contains 
 upwards of 100 houses. Seven fairs are held in it, viz., 
 one in January, one in April, a feeing-market in May, 
 markets in June, August, and October, and a feeing- 
 market in November, at all of which cattle, sheep, horses, 
 and country produce are sold. The grain is chiefly sent 
 to Peterhead, Fraserburgh, and Banff. There is a good 
 road to Ellon, thirteen miles distant, and the turnpike- 
 road from Peterhead to Banff crosses the parish. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Deer and synod of 
 Aberdeen ; patron, the Crown. The stipend of the mi- 
 nister is £219, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 
 per annum. The old church, now entirely removed, 
 was built in 1622, and an aisle was added to it in 1773. 
 In 1838 another church was erected, at a cost of about 
 £3000 ; it is a neat edifice in the later English style, and 
 affords accommodation for 1600 persons. At Savock 
 is a chapel of ease, built in 1834 at a cost of £819, and 
 which contains 700 sittings. The parish contains three 
 meeting-houses belonging to the United Presbyterian 
 Synod, but the number of communicants in each is very 
 small : there is also a place of worship in connexion with 
 the Free Church. There are three parochial schools, 
 situated -respectively at Kirktown, Savock, and White- 
 hill, in which the classics, mathematics, and all the 
 usual branches of education are taught ; the salary 
 of each master is £24, and the amount of their fees 
 collectively about £60 : between £20 and £30 are also 
 received by each from the Dick bequest. A bursary at 
 Marischal College, of the value of £9, for a scholar of 
 the name of Cruickshank or Topp, is in the gift of the 
 incumbent. The relics of antiquity in the parish consist 
 of the remains of castles, Druidical temples, and tumuli ; 
 and urns of baked clay, containing human bones and 
 ashes, have been found. About a mile from the village, 
 in the northern quarter, formerly stood a circular heap 
 287 
 
 called the Standing Stones of Culsh, and the place still 
 retains the name, though the stones were taken away 
 seventy or eighty years ago, to supply materials for 
 building. A little farther in the same direction are the 
 ruins of the castle of Fedderate, the best stones of which 
 have also been removed for the purpose of building. 
 The floors of this structure were arched with stone ; 
 and water was conveyed to it by means of pipes, pieces 
 of which have been found at different times in turning 
 up the ground. It stood in the midst of a morass, now 
 drained and cultivated, and the only access to it was by 
 a drawbridge across a moat. It is supposed to have 
 been a place of great strength, and was in various hands 
 at the time of the Revolution in 1688. Dr. Mavor, the 
 compiler of travels, &c., was born in the parish. 
 
 DEER, OLD, a parish, 10 miles (W.) from Peter- >^ 
 head ; partly in the district of Deer, county of Aber- 
 deen, including the villages of Stuartfield and Old 
 Deer ; and partly in the county of Banff, including the 
 village of Fetterangus ; the whole containing 4453 inha- 
 bitants. The name appears to be derived from a Gaelic 
 word signifying the worship of God, perhaps applied 
 on account of the first Christian church in Buchan 
 having been erected here. The remains of antiquity in 
 the parish throw considerable light upon its primitive 
 history ; vestiges of four or five Druidical temples are 
 still visible, and numerous others were removed at no 
 very remote period, in order to facilitate the extended 
 operations of agriculture. On the north side of the hill 
 of Parkhouse there were until lately the remains of a 
 small village, supposed to have been occupied by the 
 Druids, but usually called " the Picts' houses " by the 
 neighbouring peasantry. Upon the summit of Bruxie 
 steep, and at Den of Howie, near Fetterangus, are traces 
 of fortifications and encampments, affording evident 
 proof of military operations in ancient times ; and in 
 the vicinity of Aikey-Brae are several tumuli said to 
 have been the burying-places of warriors who fell in a 
 sanguinary conflict between Edward, brother of Robert 
 Bruce, and Cumyn, Earl of Buchan. Deer is also 
 remarkable as the site of a distinguished abbey, founded 
 about the beginning of the thirteenth century by the 
 then Earl of Buchan, and first held by a company of 
 Cistercian monks from the abbey of Kinloss in Moray. 
 This establishment was suppressed at the time of the 
 proscription of religious houses, and erected into a tem- 
 poral lordship in favour of Robert, the earl-marischal's 
 second son, created Lord Altrie ; but that nobleman 
 dying without issue, the title became extinct, and the 
 estate passed into the hands of the head of the family. 
 A very considerable demesne was attached to the abbey, 
 and its revenue amounted to £572. 8. 6. in money, with 
 .sixty-five chalders, seven bolls, one firlot, and three pecks 
 of meal, fourteen bolls of wheat, and fourteen chalders 
 and ten bolls of bear. 
 
 The parish, or rather the main portion of it, in 
 Aberdeenshire, measures in mean length about nine 
 miles and a half, and about four miles and a half in 
 breadth, containing upwards of 25,000 acres, of which 
 about three-fourths are under tillage or in pasture, 2000 
 acres are occupied by growing wood, and the remainder 
 is peat-moss, moor, and waste. It is bounded on the west 
 by the parish of New Deer. The surface is altogether 
 undulated, being marked by a succession of hills and 
 valleys of various extent and form, many of which are
 
 DEER 
 
 DEER 
 
 clothed with verdure, or ornamented with clumps of 
 wood. Deer, wild geese occasionally in spring, ducks, 
 partridges, woodcocks, and snipes, and large numbers 
 of rabbits are to be met with in different parts. The 
 chief streams are two tributaries of the Ugie, which 
 form a confluence in the parish of Longside, and fall 
 into the sea about a mile north-west of Peterhead ; the 
 black trout with which they abound supply abundant 
 sport to the lovers of angling. The soil differs to a 
 considerable extent ; the crops consist chiefly of oats 
 and turnips. Large tracts of pasture are occupied by 
 herds of cattle ; there are very few sheep kept, the only 
 flock of any consequence being on the Pitfour estate, 
 where from two to four hundred of various breeds are 
 generally pastured. The cattle are mostly the native 
 black, rather above the middle size, with which the 
 Teeswater has been crossed during the last few years ; 
 they are fattened upon turnips, and many of them are 
 sent for sale to the London market. Husbandry is well 
 understood in the parish, and considerable improve- 
 ments have been made by laying out land for pasture, by 
 draining, and inclosing. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £13,16.5. The prevailing rocks 
 are granite and limestone, the latter of which is fre- 
 quently found with veins and blocks of gneiss, and often 
 so loaded with magnesian earth as to render it more 
 useful for building than for agricultural purposes. Near 
 the lime-quarry on the lands of Annochie are blocks of 
 pure white quartz, and in other parts of the parish 
 varieties of siliceous stone occur. Particles of granite, 
 felspar, quartz, and mica are found in gravel-pits. The 
 large tracts of peat-moss formerly to be seen are for 
 the most part exhausted by the continual demand upon 
 them for supplies of fuel, and very little peat-moss is 
 now to be found. The chief seat is the iVIansion-House 
 of Pitfour, the character of which may be conjectured 
 from the fact, that the expenses incurred by the pro- 
 prietor in erecting and furnishing the house, and im- 
 proving the contiguous grounds, have amounted to 
 nearly £80,000 : it has fine gardens and plantations. 
 On the Kenmundy and Aden estates are also elegant 
 and commodious mansions with good gardens and well 
 laid-out plantations. Upon the estate of Dens is a 
 plantation of about eighty acres, consisting chiefly of 
 Scotch fir and larch. Fair specimens may be seen in 
 different places of ash, elm, silver-fir, larch, and pine ; 
 but beech and spruce-fir appear to be the kinds more 
 particularly adapted to the soil and climate. 
 
 The inhabitants of the villages are to a considerable 
 extent engaged in some branch of manufacture. In 
 Stuartfield about thirty persons are employed in weaving 
 linen-yarn for the Aberdeen houses, and at Millbrake 
 and Aden some sorts of woollen-cloth are made. There 
 are also two flax-mills in the parish, and to the larger 
 of the two woollen-mills a dye-house and a fulling- 
 mill are attached. Six fairs are held in the course of 
 the year, of which Aikey fair on the Wednesday after 
 the 19th of July, and St. Dunstan's on the corresponding 
 day of December, are chiefly for the sale of cattle, 
 sheep, and horses. Another is held on the Thursday 
 after the ^5th of January, one on the Thursday after the 
 18th of March, one (lately established) on the Monday 
 after the 17 th of September, and one about the beginning 
 of November. Several others formerly held have been 
 discontinued, and the four last mentioned are of inferior 
 288 
 
 note. The turnpike-road from Fraserljurgh to Aberdeen 
 runs in a direction north and south, and that from Peter- 
 head to Banff east and west, through the parish. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Deer and synod of Aber- 
 deen; patron, the Crown. The minister's stipend is £219, 
 and there is a manse, built in 1823, with a glebe worth 
 between £40 and £50 per annum. The church, which 
 was built in 1*88, and repaired a few years since, con- 
 tains 1200 sittings. There is an episcopal chapel ; and 
 the members of the Free Church, the Original Secession, 
 the United Presbyterian Synod, and the Independents 
 have places of worship. Three parochial schools are 
 supported : the master of the chief establishment, situ- 
 ated at Old Deer, and in which, besides the usual in- 
 struction, Greek and mathematics are taught, has a 
 salary of £31, with a house, and about £30 from fees ; 
 the other masters have a moderate salary each, with 
 fees, and all of them have a considerable allowance from 
 the Dick bequest. The principal remains of antiquity 
 are the ruins of the abbey, surrounded by the high wall 
 belonging to the fruit and kitchen garden of Pitfour. 
 The larger part of the ruins has been taken, at different 
 times, for the purpose of forming stone dykes and erect- 
 ing dwelling-houses ; but what now remains is carefully 
 preserved by the proprietor of the estate. A church 
 of cruciform design once stood on the north side ; its 
 length from east to west was 150 feet, the breadth 
 ninety feet, and the nave, which was thirty-eight feet 
 and a half wide, was supported by a row of pillars, 
 whose bases may yet be seen, about seventeen feet dis- 
 tant from each other. The most interesting Druidical 
 temple is that on the top of Parkhouse Hill, the chief 
 stone of which, called the Altar Stone, is fourteen and 
 a half feet long and five and a half broad ; the stones 
 are placed about fourteen feet asunder, and inclose a 
 circle forty-eight feet in diameter. There are several 
 chalybeate springs in the parish. 
 
 DEERNESS, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in the 
 parish of St. Andrew's, county of Orkney, 12 miles 
 (S. E.) from Kirkwall ; containing, with the island of 
 Copinshay, 7*7 inhabitants. This place, the name of 
 which is supposed to have originated in the number of 
 deer frequenting it in ancient times, is a peninsula about 
 four miles in length, and from one to three miles in 
 breadth, connected with the rest of the Mainland by a 
 narrow isthmus. It is bounded (m the west and north- 
 west by the harbour of Deer Sound, which separates it 
 from the remainder of the parish of St. Andrew's, and 
 on the south and east by the North Sea. According to 
 tradition, the whole of the peninsula was one wide forest ; 
 and roots and trunks of trees, and the antlers of deer, 
 have from time to time been dug up at a considerable 
 depth. The surface is varied with gentle elevations, and 
 towards the north-east rises into a lofty promontory 
 called the Mull head, about 200 feet above the level of 
 the sea : the soil is not unfertile, and considerable im- 
 provement has taken place in the system of agriculture, 
 and in the construction of implements of husbandry. 
 
 Deer Sound is more than four miles in length, and 
 from one to two miles and a half in breadth ; the bottom 
 is clay mixed with sand, and the depth of water sufficient 
 to render it accessible to vessels of considerable burthen, 
 to which it affords safe anchorage and shelter from the 
 winds. The situation of this place is peculiarly favour- 
 
 t»*«*
 
 D ELT 
 
 D E N N 
 
 able for a fishing-station ; and in addition to the various 
 kinds of fish taken off the coast, the herring-fishery is 
 carried on to a very considerable extent, affording during 
 the season full employment to fifty boats, each having 
 four men and a boy. Facility of communication with 
 Kirkwall and other parts of the Mainland, is afforded by 
 one of the best roads in this part of the country. Cattle 
 and grain are sent to Leith, to which place there are 
 regular packets, and a steamer in summer. The district 
 was separated from the parish of St. Andrew's for eccle- 
 siastical purposes in May 1830; it is in the presbytery 
 of Kirkwall, synod of Orkney, and in the patronage of 
 the Crown. Deerness church is a plain building, erected 
 about the close of the last century, and affords sufficient 
 accommodation for the inhabitants. The stipend of the 
 minister is £120, with a manse, and about three acres of 
 glebe land. A school is supported by the Society for 
 Propagating Christian Knowledge, who pay the master a 
 salary of £1'2 per annum, to which £3 are added by the 
 heritors. Near the summit of Mull head was formerly 
 an ancient chapel of very difficult access, to which nume- 
 rous pilgrims were accustomed to resort ; there are also 
 some tumuli and remains of Picts' houses in the district. 
 In the north-east end of the parish is an excavation, or 
 gloupe, as it is here called, about 150 paces in length and 
 sixty in breadth, the entrance into which is below ground, 
 and admits of a boat sailing into it. — See Copinshay. 
 (^ DELTING, a parish, in the county of Shetland, 
 '25 miles (N. N. W.) from Lerwick ; containing, with the 
 islands of Muckle Roe and Little Roe, 2019 inhabitants. 
 This parish, the name of which is said to be of Danish 
 or Norwegian origin, is situated about the centre of the 
 Mainland, and is separated on the west from the parish 
 of Northmavine by a long narrow harbour called Sulom 
 Voe, and from the island of Yell on the north by Yell 
 Sound. It is so indented by fissures and intersected by 
 narrow bays, no part of it being above two miles from 
 the sea, that an estimate of its superficial extent cannot 
 be given with accuracy. Its length is about fourteen 
 miles, and its mean breadth from three and a half to 
 four miles. The surface, in its general appearance, is 
 hilly, bleak, and dreary, ornamented occasionally with a 
 few small lochs, and the quantity of land under tillage is 
 not more than 600 or 700 acres, attached to which is 
 pasture of nearly the same extent ; the remainder of the 
 parish is hilly pasture ground abounding in peaty soil, 
 which affords abundance of excellent fuel. The arable 
 land has been lately much improved by draining, and a 
 considerable number of Scotch ploughs have been intro- 
 duced, as well as carts, which before were very scarce 
 here. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £1777. The principal rocks are gneiss and syenite, 
 with which also are found limestone and hornblende. 
 There are three mansion-houses, namely, Busta,Ullhouse, 
 and Garth. The inhabitants are mostly employed in 
 fishing; and in the month of May, the whole of the 
 fishermen meet at the stations in Northmavine and Papa- 
 Stour, to commence operations for the taking of ling and 
 cod, upon which they chiefly depend : in a recent year 
 528 barrels of herrings and sixty tons of ling, cod, tu.sk, 
 aud saith were cured in Delting, and these were only a 
 part of what had been taken. Piltocks and sillocks, 
 called also coal-fish, are likewise caught to a considerable 
 extent, and supply the inhabitants with a large portion 
 of their food, and frequently with a quantity of oil. 
 Vol. I.— 289 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Olna- 
 firth, synod of Shetland, and in the patronage of the 
 Earl of Zetland. The stipend is £150, of which about 
 a third is received from the exchequer ; with a manse, 
 built in 1751, and thoroughly repaired and enlarged 
 about the year 1820, at an expense of £500 ; and also a 
 glebe valued at £10 per annum. The minister is like- 
 wise entitled to the vicarage tithe of certain quantities 
 of butter and oil, which is appropriated for the commu- 
 nion elements. There are two churches, that of the south 
 district, which was erected in 1714, and is reckoned the 
 principal, and the north-district church, built in 1811 ; 
 the number of sittings in each is about 560. The paro- 
 chial schoolmaster receives a salary of £25. 13. 3., and 
 abput £3 fees. There are two other schools, of which 
 the masters are allowed, one £25, and the other £20, by 
 the General Assembly. Near Yell Sound is a Pictish 
 castle called Brough ; at Burravoe are the remains of an 
 ancient harbour, and at Bustaa block of granite between 
 ten and eleven feet in height, called the Standing Stone 
 of Busta. There are also two caves, one at Culster- 
 ness, containing two apartments, and supposed to have 
 been originally used as a hiding-place, and the other in 
 the vicinity of the loch of Trondavoe, said to have been 
 used in times past as a depository for stolen sheep. 
 
 DENHOLM, a village, in the parish of Cavers, ?' 
 Hawick district of the county of Roxburgh,. 5 miles 
 (VV. by S.) from Jedburgh ; containing 696 inhabitants. 
 This place is beautifully situated in the northern part of 
 the parish, on the road from Jedburgh to Hawick, and 
 equidistant from both towns. The population are em- 
 ployed in stocking-weaving, the work being given out to 
 them by the manufacturers of Hawick. A sub-post- 
 office has been established, and the village has lately 
 been much improved. There are places of worship for 
 members of the Free Church and Congregational Union- 
 ists, and one of the parochial schools is in the village, 
 in which is also a subscription library containing about 
 900 volumes. Dr. John Leyden, author of the Scenes 
 of Infancy, and famous as an oriental scholar, was born 
 at Denholm. 
 
 DENINO, county of Fife. — See Dunino.' 
 DENNY, a manufacturing town and parish, in the f"^ 
 county of Stirling, 7 miles (S.) from Stirling, and 5 
 (W. N. W.) from Falkirk; containing, with the former 
 quoad sacra parish of Haggs, and the villages of Fanker- 
 ton and Loanhead, 4916 inhabitants, of whom LSSl are 
 in the town. This place, whose name, derived from the 
 Gaelic Dun, is descriptive of its situation on an eminence, 
 originally formed part of the parish of Falkirk, from 
 which it was separated about the year 1618. A consi- 
 derable portion of the parish appears to have belonged 
 to an establishment of Knights Templars that probably 
 existed here or in the immediate vicinity, and the laud 
 is still known by the appellation of Temple-Denny. The 
 TOWN, which is situated on the south bank of the river 
 Carron, and on the high road from Glasgow to Stirling, 
 consists partly of a street extending from the church 
 northward to the bridge over the Carron : a second runs 
 eastward from the church, and in a direction parallel to 
 this another spacious street has been more recently built, 
 which, in compliment to the principal landed proprietor, 
 is called Herbertshire-street. The houses are generally 
 well built, and roofed with slate, and have a handsome 
 appearance. A public library, containing nearly 1200 
 
 2 P
 
 DENN 
 
 D EN N 
 
 volumes on general literature, is supported by subscrip- 
 tion ; and there is also a theological library of 400 vo- 
 lumes. Several efforts for the establishment of reading- 
 rooms have been made, but without success. A club 
 for the practice of archery was established in 1828, and 
 the members, who were elected by ballot, held annual 
 meetings in October, when prizes of medals and silver 
 arrows, and other honorary distinctions, were awarded ; 
 but this club was dissolved about six years ago. There 
 is still a curling club. 
 
 The woollen manufacture is carried on to a consider- 
 able extent, for the Glasgow houses ; the principal articles 
 are tartans, linsey-woolsey stuffs, and fancy shawls. The 
 machinery of the mills is driven by the Carron, and the 
 softness and purity of the water render it peculiarly 
 appropriate for cleaning and dyeing the various articles 
 produced in the works, in which about 160,000 pounds 
 of wool are annually consumed, affording occupation to 
 '200 persons. A mill for the manufacture of different 
 kinds of coarse paper and milled-boards, at Carron- 
 Grove, employs about twenty persons : the materials 
 are chiefly old tarred rope, of which about a ton is used 
 daily ; and the mill is lighted with gas. The manufac- 
 ture of writing-paper is also extensively carried on, in 
 the Herbertshire mills, by Messrs. Duncan and Sons, 
 employing twenty men and fifty women, who reside 
 principally in Denny and Fankerton ; the machinery is 
 driven by two water-wheels, one of which is twenty-four, 
 and the other twenty-two feet in diameter. A mill for 
 crushing dye-woods, on the bank of the Carron, and with 
 which are connected works in Castle- Rankine glen, 
 affords employment to more than twenty persons, in the 
 production of dyeing materials and of pyroligneous acid 
 and the several liquors requisite for the various colours ; 
 and on the lands of Knowhead is an extensive forge for 
 the making of spades. A large distillery is in operation, 
 which produces about 50,000 gallons of whisky annually ; 
 and a brick and tile work has been established : many 
 of the inhabitants of this place, also, are employed in the 
 print-works in the adjoining parish of Dunipace. There 
 are likewise numerous corn and meal mills on the river, 
 for the better supply of which with water-power, a reservoir 
 of sixty acres has been constructed on Earl's burn, about 
 nine miles above Denny, at an expense of £2000. The 
 town contains well-stored shops for the sale of different 
 kinds of merchandise, and all the various handicraft 
 trades requisite for the supply of the district are carried 
 on at Denny, which also derives a considerable degree of 
 traffic from its situation on a public thoroughfare. The 
 post-office has a good delivery ; facility of communica- 
 tion is afforded by excellent roads and bridges, and in 
 1846 an act of parliament was passed for the construc- 
 tion of a branch railway to Denny from the Scottish 
 Central line near Larbert. A baron-bailie presides over 
 the town, with power to hold a court for the recovery of 
 debts not exceeding £2 ; and fairs are held annually, for 
 cows, on the Wednesday before the 12th of May and the 
 Wednesday after the 1 1th of November ; but there is no 
 market. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the north by the river 
 Carron, on the south by the river Bonny, and on the 
 west by the hill of Darrach. It is nearly six miles in 
 length and four in breadth, comprising a little less than 
 9000 acres, of which 2000 are permanent pasture, and 
 the remainder chiefly arable. The surface, which de- 
 290 
 
 clines gradually from the hill of Darrach towards the 
 east, is divided nearly in the centre by an elevated ridge 
 throughout its whole length, whence the ground slopes 
 towards the north and south ; the only other hill of any 
 note is that of Myothill, on the lands of Temple-Denny. 
 The scenery is richly diversified, commanding a view of 
 Herbertshire House, the seat of the Dowager Lady 
 Forbes of Callendar, and of the beautifully undulated 
 and tastefully embellished grounds wherein it is situated, 
 on the opposite bank of the Carron. There are numerous 
 springs, and, besides the two streams above mentioned, 
 several small rivulets : of the latter. Castle- Rankine 
 burn, which has its source near the base of Darrach 
 Hill, and falls into the river Carron near Denny Bridge, 
 is the largest. The river Carron, rising in the Muckle 
 Bin, to the west of Darrach Hill, and flowing in an 
 eastern course, forms a strikingly picturesque cascade 
 called Auchinlilly-lin-spout, near the bridge on the road 
 to Fintry : a cottage commanding a fine view of the fall 
 was built by Mr. Hill, of Edinburgh, but it is now a 
 ruin, having been destroyed by the overflowing of the 
 Carron. The Bonny flows into the Carron about two 
 miles eastward of the town. 
 
 The SOIL on the banks of the Carron and the Bonny 
 is a fertile loam, in the central districts it is gravelly, 
 and in the higher lands are considerable tracts of marshy 
 ground ; the crops are oats, barley, wheat, beans, peas, 
 potatoes, and turnips. Though greatly improved, the 
 system of husbandry is still defective from the want of 
 draining and inclosures ; and with some exceptions the 
 farm-buildings are of very inferior order. There are a 
 few sheep reared on the lands, and these are chiefly of 
 the Cheviot and Leicestershire breeds ; the cattle are 
 generally the Ayrshire, and the horses of the Clydesdale 
 breed, to the improvement of which great attention is 
 now paid. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £6293. The natural woods are mostly oak 
 and birch, which are carefully preserved ; and the plan- 
 tations are -ash, elm, birch, lime, oak, plane, and larch, 
 Scotch and spruce firs, all of which are properly managed 
 and in a thriving state. la this parish the substrata 
 are principally whinstone and freestone, and ironstone 
 and coal are also found in abundance. The coal on the 
 north of the ridge, though nearest to the manufactories, 
 is only wrought occasionally, from the difficulty of 
 drawing off the water ; the mines on the south, at Bank- 
 nock, are in full operation. There are three seams of 
 the coal, of which the upper is three feet six inches, the 
 middle twenty-two inches, and the lowest five feet in 
 thickness ; and the produce, after supplying the wants 
 of the locality, is sent by the canal to Greenock and 
 Edinburgh. The parish contains Myothill House, beau- 
 tifully situated near the base of Darrach Hill, in grounds 
 embellished with plantations. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Stirling, synod of Perth and 
 Stirling. The minister's stipend is £250, with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £10 per annum; patron, the 
 Crown. Denny church, erected in 181,3, was internally 
 beautified in 1838, and lighted with gas; it is a neat 
 structure in the Grecian style, and contains 767 sittings. 
 There are places of worship for members of the United 
 Presbyterian Church and the Free Church. The paro- 
 chial school is well conducted ; the master has a salary 
 of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees average
 
 DESK 
 
 DESK 
 
 £24 : a handsome building has been erected for the 
 school. The only antiquities are some remains of a Ro- 
 man station at Castle-Carie, near the southern confines 
 of the parish. A rude stone coffin was discovered in 
 digging the foundation for Headswood Cottage, at Wood- 
 gate, and found to contain the ashes of an adult sup- 
 posed to have been killed near the spot, at the time of 
 the wars with Edward I. of England. A circular hollow 
 now under cultivation, in the south of the parish, near 
 the river Bonny, is said to have been the site of a Cale- 
 donian encampment during the occupation of Castle- 
 Carie by the Romans. 
 
 DENOVAN, a village, in the parish of Dunipace, 
 • ,• county of Stirling, 5 miles (W. N. W.) from Falkirk; 
 containing 104 inhabitants. This village is chiefly in- 
 habited by persons employed in calico-printing works. 
 It is situated on the north bank of the river Carron, 
 amidst scenery of pleasingly picturesque character, the 
 effect of which is heightened by the graceful tower of 
 the parish church rising above the surrounding foliage, 
 and the handsome residence of the proprietor. The 
 works were established by Mr. Adam, in 1800, and afford 
 employment to about 400 persons, the greater number 
 of whom are resident in the town of Denny, on the 
 opposite side of the Carron. In addition to these per- 
 sons, engaged in the regular printing departments, are 
 nearly 200 children, chiefly girls, of whom some are 
 occupied in attendance on the printers, and others in 
 sewing and fringing shawls. 
 n> DESKFORD, a parish, in the county of Banff, 
 4 miles (S. by E.) from Cullen, on the road to Keith ; 
 containing 860 inhabitants. This parish derives its 
 name, signifying a cold place to the south, from the 
 comparative temperature of its climate, and its situation 
 with respect to Cullen. It is rather more than five miles 
 in length, and about three miles in its average breadth, 
 comprising a quadrilateral area of 8.500 acres, of which 
 2800 are arable land in good cultivation, 48,50 waste 
 or partly in pasture, and 850 woodland. The surface is 
 billy, and between the high grounds is a beautiful valley 
 watered by a stream called the burn of Deskford, which 
 rises in the adjoining parish of Grange, and receives in 
 its course many tributary streams, descending from the 
 heights on both sides. In the valley and lower lands 
 the soil is a rich black loam, and in an improved state 
 of cultivation. The high land on the east side of the 
 valley is called the Green Hill, and in several places 
 is planted with larch and common fir ; that on the west 
 side is chiefly covered with heath, with the exception of 
 a small portion that is cultivated. Considerable im- 
 provement has been made in draining, and there is a 
 quarry of e.xcellent limestone, extensively worked both 
 for building and for agricultural purposes. A large tract 
 of moss supplies the inhabitants with peat and turf, 
 which are also sent to Cullen and several villages on the 
 coast. The substratum of the parish is mostly mica-slate, 
 in which fragments of quartz arc frequently found, and, 
 beneath the surface of the higher grounds, gravel, or 
 clay and gravel mixed. The principal manure is lime ; 
 but bone-manure is also used with considerable benefit, 
 and in the upper part of the parish fish manure is ap- 
 plied. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £2154. 
 
 The scenery, especially in the valley, is pleasing and 
 picturesque. The burn affords much variety in its pro- 
 291 
 
 gress through the parish ; and the numerous streams 
 that fall into it from the high grounds on both sides, 
 issue from narrow glens whose sides are fringed with 
 wood, and in their descent form cascades of singular 
 beauty. Of these the most interesting is one called the 
 Linn ; the stream rushes with great impetuosity from a 
 deep cleft in the rock, which it has worn into fanciful 
 cavities, and after repeated obstructions precipitates 
 itself from a height of thirty feet. A tract of hilly and 
 moorish ground, called the Cotton Hill, comprising about 
 250 acres, has within the last few years been inclosed 
 for plantations : the drains made for preparing the 
 ground for the purpose, extend nineteen miles, and the 
 dykes for its inclosure nearly six miles. The woodlands 
 of the parish now comprise 850 acres. There was for- 
 merly a bleachfield, and during the prevalence of the 
 linen manufacture the female population were engaged 
 in spinning ; since the discontinuance of that trade the 
 bleachfield has been converted into arable land, and 
 there are now only two meal-mills (to one of which is 
 attached a kiln) and a barley-mill. The most important 
 improvement that has lately taken place is the construc- 
 tion of a line of turnpike-road through the parish, open- 
 ing a communication between Keith and Cullen, and 
 which, from the formation of a harbour at the latter 
 town, affords a facility of forwarding the agricultural 
 produce. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery 
 of Fordyce, synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of 
 the Earl of Seafield ; the minister's stipend is about 
 £193, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £8 per an- 
 num. Deskford church, built before the Reformation, 
 is in good repair, and capable of receiving a congregation 
 of 357 persons. The members of the Free Church have a 
 place of worship. The parochial school affords instruc- 
 tion to about forty boys; the master's salary is £32, 
 with £2 in lieu of a garden, £12 fees, and about £30 
 from the bequest of Mr. Dick. There is the interest of 
 a sum of money, amounting to £10. 12. a year, distri- 
 buted among the poor. 
 
 On the borders of a farm called Liechestown there was 
 found within the last twenty or thirty years, at the 
 depth of six feet, in a mossy piece of ground, the head • 
 of a swine in brass, of the ordinary size, with a tongue 
 of wood moveable by means of springs : it is now in the 
 museum of the Banff Institution. Upon an adjoining 
 farm, called Inalterie, supposed to signify the place of 
 " the altar", are the remains of an ancient massive 
 building, in one part of which is a deep circular hole of 
 the size of a well, inclosed with a stone wall rising to a 
 considerable height. The origin and purpose of the 
 building are equally obscure. Close to it is a vault, on 
 exploring which a staircase was found leading down to 
 the interior ; but the search was interrupted by con- 
 tinued heavy rains, and has not been resumed. It is 
 supposed to be the remains of some baronial castle or 
 ecclesiastical building. In the immediate vicinity was 
 formerly an artificial mount of stones, called the Law 
 Hillock, thought to have been a place for administering 
 justice, for which it was well adapted ; but it has been 
 removed for the purpose of cmiiloying the materials in 
 building. On the other side of the burn of Deskford, 
 and within view of the former, is another mount, rising 
 to an elevation of twenty feet, and sloping gradually 
 on the sides. It is level on the summit, which is 
 of elliptical form ; and is surrounded at the base by a 
 
 2 P 2
 
 DING 
 
 DING 
 
 ditch, part of which forms the bed of a stream called 
 the Ha' burn. This mount is termed the Ha' Hillock, 
 and is supposed to have been also an ancient tribunal. 
 Adjoining the church are the ruins of a tower formerly 
 belonging to a castle, the residence of the chief pro- 
 prietor of the parish. It is said that there was originally 
 a communication from this tower to the church, the 
 walls of which are contiguous : and the latter is thought 
 to have been originally the domestic chapel of the castle. 
 The tower formed a very conspicuous object, rising con- 
 siderably above the roof of the church ; but being in a 
 very ruinous state, it was taken down some years since, 
 from an apprehension of danger. Close to the church is 
 St. John's well, supplied by a spring that appears to 
 issue from beneath the church, which was originally 
 dedicated to St. John ; and near it is a small fragment 
 of a very stately tree dedicated to the same patron. 
 
 DE'V'ONSIDE, a village, in the parish of Tillicoul- 
 try, county of Clackmannan, f of a mile (S.) from 
 Tillicoultry ; containing 1*0 inhabitants. This village, 
 situated on the banks of the Devon, has sprung up 
 within these few years. Coal, which is abundant in the 
 parish, is wrought in its vicinity ; and brick and tile 
 works have been erected. The place is suitably circum- 
 stanced for manufactures, the Devon supplying water 
 for steam-engines and other purposes. 
 
 DEWARTO"WN, a village, in the parish of Borth- 
 wicK, county of Edinburgh, 1 mile (S.) from Ford; 
 containing 193 inhabitants. It is one of the most con- 
 siderable villages in the parish, is of pleasing appearance, 
 and consists principally of sm^ll holdings on the estate 
 of Vogrie, the property of the Dewar family. The dwell- 
 ings are ranged on one side of the road, and in front is 
 a plantation, with a small stream flowing near : the sce- 
 nery in the neighbourhood is very picturesque. 
 
 DINGWALL, a royal 
 burgh, a sea-port, and a pa- 
 rish, the capital of the county 
 of Ross, 20 miles (S. W.) 
 
 f/iso''' i'^'^ i'Hr^^^' *?*1 — from Cromarty, and 1/4 miles 
 fH^ifOr ^ VLVi-T^^^!^! -:?i\ /.- j,r y^y) f^om Edinburgh; 
 
 1(^- 
 
 JH' containing 2100 inhabitants, 
 S' of whom 1739 are in the 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 burgh. This place, the name 
 of which is of Scandinavian 
 origin, is supposed to have 
 been originally a Danish set- 
 tlement, and subsequently 
 the seat of one of the numerous royal fortresses erected 
 along the coast, to repel the frequent incursions of that 
 warlike people. It is of considerable antiquity, and, 
 from the discovery of foundations of houses and pave- 
 ments within and beyond the limits of the present town, 
 is supposed to have been anciently of greater extent and 
 importance. It was erected into a royal burgh by Alex- 
 ander II., who, in 1226, bestowed upon the inhabitants 
 a charter investing them with all the privileges and im- 
 munities enjoyed by the burgesses of Inverness. Ding- 
 wall Castle became the principal seat of the powerful 
 Earls of Ross, who were proprietors of the greater por- 
 tion of the lands in the surrounding district, several 
 estates of which are still held under charters granted to 
 the owners by the earls, and dated from Dingwall. The 
 castle and the lands remained in the possession of the 
 Earls of Ross till 14*6, when, on the attainder of the 
 292 
 
 last earl, the proprietor of the estate of Tullocb was 
 appointed hereditary constable of the castle, and the 
 earldom was vested in the crown. The only remains of 
 the castle are a small shapeless fragment of the walls, 
 from which a tolerable idea maybe obtained of the mas- 
 sive solidity of the structure ; the fosse by which it was 
 surrounded may still be traced, and part of its site is 
 now occupied by a castellated building recently erected 
 by the proprietor of the land. 
 
 The TOWN is situated at the entrance of the picturesque f 
 and beautiful vale of Strathpeffer, which opens into the 
 Firth of Cromarty. It comprises one chief street about 
 half a mile in length from east to west, from which several 
 smaller streets diverge at right angles ; the houses in the 
 main street are shaded by rows of tall poplar-trees in 
 front, and those of the older class are generally well built 
 and two stories high. From its vicinity to the mineral 
 springs of Strathpeffer the town has been much extended 
 within the last few years, and many handsome houses 
 have been built. The streets are paved, and lighted with 
 gas, and the inhabitants are supplied with water conveyed 
 into the town from springs in the vicinity. There are no 
 manufactures carried on ; the principal trade arises from 
 Dinsrwall being the general mart for the rich and popu- 
 lous district of which it is the centre, for which it has 
 numerous shops, amply stored with wares of all kinds. 
 The trade of the port, employing much shipping, consists 
 chiefly in the exportation of, grain, timber, hark, and 
 agricultural produce ; and in the importation of merchan- 
 dise for the supply of the district, and of coal, lime, and 
 other commodities. There are several vessels belonging 
 to the port, which were built here, and are employed in 
 the coasting-trade. The harbour, close to the town, was 
 C(mstructed in 181*, at a cost of £4365, and is under 
 the superintendence of commissioners appointed by act 
 of parliament in 1S24. 
 
 tjnder the charter of Alexander II., confirmed by 
 James I'V., and ratified by James VI., the government 
 of the burgh is vested in a provost, two bailies, a dean 
 of guild, treasurer, and ten councillors, chosen under the 
 regulations of the Burgh Reform act. There are no in- 
 corporated guilds ; persons dealing in merchandise within 
 the burgh must become burgesses, the fee for which varies 
 from £.5 to £15. 15., but neither the sons nor apprentices 
 of burgesses pay any fee, and craftsmen may exercise 
 their trades without becoming burgesses. The jurisdic- 
 tion of the magistrates extends over the whole of the 
 royalty, and comprehends both civil and criminal causes ; 
 for which the sheriflF also, who has a substitute residing 
 here, holds the usual courts. Dingwall is associated with 
 Cromarty, Dornoch, Kirkwall, Tain, and Wick, in return- 
 ing a member to the imperial parliament. The town- 
 house, nearly in the centre of the town, is an ancient 
 structure with a spire. Within the last few years, an 
 extensive new prison, on the most approved principles, 
 has been built ; in front of which are the county build- 
 ings, an elegant structure containing accommodation for 
 the gentlemen of the county when assembled on business, 
 and also for the sherifl" and other law courts. The 
 market, on Friday, is well supplied with grain and pro- 
 visions of all kinds ; and fairs, chiefly for cattle and 
 agricultural produce, are held on the third Wednesdays 
 in January and February, the first Wednesdays in June, 
 September, and November, the first Tuesday in July, and 
 the Tuesday before Christmas-day. There are regular
 
 DING 
 
 DI RL 
 
 posts to Poolewe, Stornoway, Ullapool, Lochcarron, 
 Lochalsh, Kiatail, Glenelg, and the Isle of Skye ; and a 
 branch of the National Bank of Scotland in very hand- 
 some premises, and more lately a branch of the Cale- 
 donia Bank, have been established in the town. 
 Facility of communication is afforded by good roads in 
 all directions, kept in excellent repair ; and by steam- 
 boats to Edinburgh weekly, and every alternate week 
 to London, which call at Invergordon, in the Firth of 
 Cromarty. 
 
 The PARISH, which is situated at the western extre- 
 mity of the Firth, is about three miles in length, of 
 nearly equal breadth, and is bounded on the north by 
 the lofty Ben-Wyvis, a mountain that attains an eleva- 
 tion of nearly 4000 feet ; on the south by the river 
 Conan ; and on the south and south-east by the sea. 
 It comprises about 5600 acres, of which "2380 are arable, 
 1380 woodland and plantations, and the remainder mea- 
 dow, pasture, and waste. The surface is beautifully 
 diversified with hills and valleys, and with wood and 
 water. To the north, the hill ot Tulloch, a continuation 
 of the ridge of Strathpeffer, rises to a height of 800 feet ; 
 it is crowned with timber of stately growth, and enriched 
 on the acclivities with lands in the highest state of culti- 
 vation, and the tastefully embellished pleasure-grounds 
 of Tulloch Castle. The Conan, which flovis by a winding 
 course into the Firth, adds much to the beauty of the 
 scenery, and abounds with salmon and trout of various 
 kinds, and also with pike and eels. At flood-tide the 
 Firth forms a magnificent expanse, but at ebb-tide 
 recedes for nearly three miles from the shore, leaving a 
 fiat strand of slime. The soil is generally of a clayey 
 nature ; in the lower lands near the town there is a deep 
 black vegetable mould, of great fertility, and in dry sea- 
 sons producing luxuriant crops. Throughout the parish, 
 the soil of the lands under cultivation is fertile, and well 
 adapted to the growth of wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, 
 and turnips, which are the principal crops. The system 
 of husbandry is in the most improved state ; the lands 
 are inclosed with hedges, in which are rows of timber, 
 and the farm-houses and offices are substantial and well 
 arranged. Few live stock are reared, but considerable 
 numbers of sheep and cattle are pastured ; the sheep are 
 chiefly of the Cheviot breed, and the cattle of the High- 
 land breed, with some Ayrshire cows on the dairy-farms. 
 The woods abound in game of all kinds, which, from the 
 sheltered situation of the place, resort in great variety ; 
 the principal are partridges, hares, grouse, black game, 
 and pheasants, which last, though but of recent introduc- 
 tion, have rapidly increased in number. The plantations 
 are fir, larch, beech, elm, oak, ash, sycamore, and vari- 
 ous other trees, all in a very thriving state, and under 
 careful management. In this parish the chief substrata 
 are sandstone and conglomerate, and there are three 
 sandstone-quarries, extensively wrought ; the stone of 
 one is of a grey colour, and of hard quality, and that of 
 the others of light blue, of softer kind, but well adapted 
 for building, and susceptible of a fine polish. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £45*6. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Dingwall and synod of Ross : 
 the minister's stipend is £244, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £30 per annum ; patron, the Crown. Ding- 
 wall church is a neat plain structure in good repair, and 
 contains 800 sittings. Service is performed both in the 
 293 
 
 English and in the Gaelic language, and a catechist is em- 
 ployed who is paid £15 per annum. There is an epis- 
 copal chapel, and the members of the Free Church have 
 a place of worship here. The parochial school is well 
 attended ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house 
 and garden, and the fees average £40. The poor have 
 the interest of some legacies, of which £700 was a be- 
 quest by one of the Tulloch family, and £100 by the late 
 Bailie Mackenzie. Near the church is an obelisk rising 
 from a base six feet square to the height of fifty-seven 
 feet, erected by George, the first Earl of Cromarty, and 
 secretary of state for Scotland to Queen Anne, to 
 point out the family sepulchre. Towards the northern 
 extremity of the parish are the remains of a Druidical 
 circle ; and at the east end of the town are those of the 
 cross supposed to have been in the centre of the ancient 
 town. This place gave the title of baron to Sir Richard 
 Preston, who was created Lord Dingwall by James VI., 
 with whom he was a great favourite ; he married the 
 only daughter of the Earl of Ormond, and left a daughter 
 who conveyed the title to another family, by whom it 
 was forfeited by attainder in 17 16. 
 
 DINWOODIE, an ancient chapelry, in the parish of 
 Applegarth, county of Dumfries, 5 miles (N. by W.) 
 from Lockerbie. It is situated on the road from Lock- 
 erbie to Moffat, and a little east of the river Annan, which 
 bounds the parish on the west. On Dinwoodie Green is 
 an inn, which served as a stage to the mail between 
 London and Glasgow, prior to the introduction of rail- 
 ways. The Caledonian railway passes here, and has a 
 station called the Nethercleuch station. Dinwoodie hill, 
 in the neighbourhood of the village, is 736 feet high. 
 
 DIRLETON, a parish, in the county of Hadding-^ 
 TON ; including the villages of Fenton and Gulane, and 
 containing 1497 inhabitants, of whom 353 are in the 
 village of Dirleton, 2^ miles (W. S. W.) from North 
 Berwick. This place, anciently called Golijn, a Gaelic 
 term signifying a small lake, derived that appellation 
 from a sheet of water near the village of Gulane, which 
 has long been drained. The ancient manors of Golyn 
 and Dirleton, which latter gives to the parish its present 
 name, belonged, together with the lands of Fenton, in 
 the early part of the twelfth century, to the family of 
 Vaux or De Vallibus; and in 1340 passed, by marriage 
 with the daughter and heiress of William De Vallibus, 
 to Sir John Ilalyburton, whose grandson, Sir Walter, 
 lord high treasurer of Scotland, was created Lord Haly- 
 burton in 1448. On the decease of the sixth Lord 
 Halyburton, the lands were conveyed by his daughter 
 and heiress Janet, in marriage, to William, second Lord 
 Ruthven, by whose descendant, John, Earl of Gowrie, 
 they were forfeited to the crown in 1600. They were 
 afterwards granted to Sir Thomas Erskine, who killed 
 the Earl of Gowrie while making an attempt on the life 
 of James VI. ; and Sir Thomas was created Lord Dirle- 
 ton in 1603, Viscount Fenton in 1606, and Earl of 
 Kellie in 1619. In 1663 the lands were purchased by 
 Sir John Nisbet, afterwards lord of session and king's 
 advocate, from whose descendant they pas.sed by mar- 
 riage to the present proprietor. Sir John Nisbet was 
 born here in I6l0, and died in 1688; he published a 
 work entitled Doubts and Questions in the Law, especially 
 of Scotland, which was highly esteemed, and of which 
 Lord Chancellor Hardwicke was accustomed to say that 
 " Dirleton's doubts were better than most people's cer-
 
 D I RL 
 
 DOLL 
 
 tainties". The ancient castle of Dirleton, erected by the 
 family of Vaux in the twelfth century, was a fortress of 
 great strength, and opposed the most formidable resist- 
 ance to Edward I., on his invasion of Scotland in 129S. 
 The English forces by whom it was besieged were, during 
 the long period of its defence, reduced to the greatest ex- 
 tremities ; it was at length surrendered to Anthony Beck, 
 Bishop of Durham. The fortress remained in the hands 
 of the English till the year 1306, and subsequently, on 
 the invasion of Scotland by Cromwell in 1650, was be- 
 sieged and taken by General Lambert, by whose orders 
 it was dismantled and almost entirely demolished. 
 
 The PARISH is about five miles and a half in length, and 
 four in breadth, and is bounded on the north by the 
 Firth of Forth, and on the south by the small river Peffer, 
 which divides it from the parish of Athelstaneford. It 
 comprises an area of about 9450 acres, of which 6680 are 
 arable and in a state of good cultivation, 380 woodland 
 and plantations, and the remainder pasture and heath. 
 The surface is generally flat, being varied only by two 
 nearly parallel ridges of moderate elevation, which divide 
 it into three almost equal portions. The scenery is greatly 
 enlivened by the Firth, and its several islands, of which 
 those of Fetheray, Eyebrochy or Ibris, and the Lamb 
 form part of the parish. Fetheray is situated directly 
 opposite to the village, about a mile from the shore, 
 with which it is connected by a narrow isthmus rising 
 on the west into an elevation, called from its appearance 
 the Castle of Tarbet. The coast towards the east is level 
 sand, and towards the west rock}', having crags of con- 
 siderable height. The rivers are the Millburn and the 
 Peffer : the latter divides into two shallow and incon- 
 siderable streams, one forming the boundary of the pa- 
 rish, and, after a course of nearly eight miles, falling into 
 the sea at Aberlady, and the other flowing in an eastern 
 direction into the sea near Tynninghame. 
 
 On the southern side of the parish the soil is partly 
 wet and marshy, and on the northern side light and 
 sandy ; the remainder is generally a good loam, resting 
 on a tilly substratum, and by a highly improved course 
 of agriculture rendered extremely fertile. The crops are 
 ■wheat, barley, oats, beans, peas, potatoes, and turnips. 
 Bone-dust and rape manures have been extensively in- 
 troduced ; tile-draining is practised to a large extent, 
 and much unprofitable land has been reclaimed. Great 
 attention is paid to the improvement of live stock ; 
 about yOOO sheep are annually pastured, of the Cheviot, 
 Leicester, and black-faced breeds, and about 500 head 
 of cattle are fed yearly, besides about 120 milch-cows. 
 The plantations are mostly on the sandy soils, and are 
 well managed ; the thinnings supply abundant materials 
 for palings and other purposes. In this parish the sub- 
 strata are sandstone, whinstone, and limestone : the 
 sandstone is quarried at Guiane, and the whinstone at 
 Burnside ; the limestone has not been worked. Basalt 
 is found near the coast, and on the farm ofWestFenton 
 it assumes the columnar formation, appearing in penta- 
 gonal columns, of which more than thirty were some 
 years since discovered. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £13,885. Archerfield is a hand- 
 some mansion-house, in a park, commanding an exten- 
 sive view of the Firth. The village of Dirleton is 
 beautifully situated on an eminence, about a mile and a 
 half from the sea, and consists of neatly-built cottages, 
 with gardens attached to them, richly ornamented with 
 294 
 
 flowers and shrubs. From its elevated site it commands 
 interesting prospects over the surrounding country, em- 
 bracing, towards the east, the Bass rock, the island of 
 May, and North Berwick Law ; and with the ivy-clad 
 ruins of its ancient castle, seated on a lofty rock M its 
 eastern extremity, it forms itself a conspicuous object in 
 the landscape. In the village are, a parochial library 
 consisting of 160 volumes purchased by collections at 
 the church ; a subscription library ; and a library of ISO 
 volumes for the use of the school. It has a post-office 
 under Haddington, and the North Berwick branch of the 
 North-British railway passes through the parish. There 
 are also good roads. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Haddington, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and in 
 the patronage of Mrs. Ferguson. The minister's stipend 
 is £293. IS., with a manse, and a glebe of thirteen or 
 fourteen acres. Dirleton church is a substantial and 
 handsome edifice, erected in I6l2, and repaired within 
 the last few years ; it is well situated for the accommo- 
 dation of the parishioners, and adapted for a congrega- 
 tion of 600 persons. The members of the Free Church 
 have a place of worship. The parochial school, in the 
 village of Dirleton, affords instruction to about eighty 
 children j the master has a salary of £34, with £33. 16. 
 fees, and a house and garden. There were anciently 
 several chapels in the parish, all subordinate to the 
 church of Golyn : one of these, dedicated to St. Nicho- 
 las, was situated on the isle of Fetheray, and there are 
 still some portions of it remaining. On the lands of 
 Archerfield was formerly a convent of nuns of the Cis- 
 tercian order, a cell to the monastery founded by David I. 
 at Berwick-upon-Tweed ; and the remains of the old 
 church of Golyn are still in good preservation. Nume- 
 rous coffins have been found near the villages of Dirleton 
 and Fenton, formed of a peculiar kind of stone, and con- 
 taining bones embedded in dark-coloured earth. Near 
 West Fenton, a stone hammer of very great antiquity 
 has been dug up ; and not far from this there have been 
 discovered by the plough the foundations of several 
 houses, supposed to have been destroyed by an encroach- 
 ment of the sea, which formerly reached the spot, though 
 now some miles distant. In the parish are also remains 
 of the old mansion of Saltcoats, belonging to the ancient 
 family of Levington, whose ancestor received a grant of 
 the lands of Saltcoats as a recompense for having killed 
 a destructive boar that infested the neighbourhood. 
 
 DOLLAR, a town and parish, in the county of ' 
 Clackmannan; containing 1562 inhabitants, of whom 
 1131 are in the town, 7 miles (X. E.) from Alloa. This 
 place, the name of which, in the Gaelic language, is de- 
 scriptive either of a vale at the base of a hill, or of a 
 secluded plain, belonged as early as the fifteenth century 
 to the Campbell family, of whose baronial residence, 
 Castle-Campbell, there are still considerable remains. 
 By whom or at what period this ancient fortress, which 
 is of formidable strength, was first erected, is not dis- 
 tinctly known ; the style of the building indicates dif- 
 ferent dates, and evidently shows that the original 
 structure received various subsequent additions. The 
 later portions are in a state of ruin ; but the keep, the 
 oldest part, is in rather good preservation : it is a tower 
 of quadrilateral form ; the walls are of vast thickness, 
 and the spiral staircase forming an ascent to the roof is 
 still tolerably entire. To the south of the keep are ex-
 
 DOLL 
 
 DOLL 
 
 tensive vaults, continued far beyond the walls of the 
 castle. From the rugged and precipitous acclivities of 
 the height vifhereon it is built. Castle- Campbell is almost 
 inaccessible. In the year 1556, Archibald, the fourth 
 Ear! of Argyll, resided in the castle, where he was 
 frequently visited by the reformer, John Knox, who 
 administered the sacrament of the Lord's Supper here 
 previously to his departure for Geneva. The castle was 
 burnt in 1644, by the Marquess of Montrose (after his 
 victories at Auldearn and Alford), on his route to the 
 south, on which occasion his troops burnt every house 
 in the parishes of Dollar and Muckart belonging to the 
 vassals of the Earl of Argyll. The lands are at present 
 divided among various proprietors, of whom the prin- 
 cipal are the Globe Insurance Company. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the north by the Ochil 
 range, and is about three miles in length from north to 
 south, and about a mile and a half in breadth, compris- 
 ing nearly 4500 acres, of which 1740 are arable, 250 
 woodland and plantations, 3500 hill-pasture, and the 
 remainder moss and waste. The surface, sloping gra- 
 dually from the base of the hills towards the south, 
 forms a gently inclined plain to the river Devon, by 
 which the parish is intersected from east to west, and 
 beyond which the ground rises by degrees to a ridge of 
 table land of considerable breadth. The principal of the 
 Ochils connected with Dollar parish are King's Seat, 
 Dollar Hill, and the "Wisp, none of which, however, ex- 
 ceed 1900 feet in elevation. At the western extremity 
 of the range is Damiett, commanding an interesting 
 view of the surrounding country, including Stirling, 
 Alloa, Linlithgow, and Falkirk, and reaching to the 
 centre of Lanarkshire, with the range of mountains from 
 Perth on the east to Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond 
 on the west. The river Devon flows through the vale 
 of Dollar, in a beautifully winding stream, between 
 banks richly wooded, and, after a course in which it 
 forms many picturesque cascades, falls into the Forth at 
 Cambus ; it abounds with trout and par, and trout are 
 also found in the numerous burns that flow into it from 
 the Ochils. The bridge connecting this parish with that 
 of Fossoway was built by Thomas Forrest, Vicar of Dol- 
 lar, who suffered martyrdom in 1538, and hence it is 
 called Vicar's Bridge. Though various, the soil is gene- 
 rally fertile ; the crops are oats, wheat, barley, turnips, 
 and potatoes. The system of agriculture is advancing, 
 and the lands have been greatly improved by draining ; 
 the farm-buildings are substantial and commodious, and 
 most of the fences are kept in good order. The hills 
 afford excellent pasture for sheep, of which considerable 
 numbers are reared. The plantations, which are inter- 
 spersed throughout the parish, are oak, ash, elm, beech, 
 plane, and the various kinds of fir ; birch and alder 
 appear to be indigenous, and recently American oak, 
 chesnut, and walnut, with various other trees, have been 
 introduced, which appear to thrive. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £4313. The rocks are 
 chiefly of two classes, namely, trap rocks and coal forma- 
 tion rocks ; and some veins of copper and lead have 
 been found : there are sandstone of various colours, 
 ironstone, limestone, and coal. Some unsuccessful at- 
 tempts to work the copper were made a few years since. 
 There is a quarry in operation, producing excellent stone 
 for building ; and the coal has been extensively wrought 
 at Dollar, near the Ochils j and at Sheardale, on the 
 295 
 
 table land to the south of the Devon. In both these 
 coalfields are found splint and main coal, in seams of 
 three and five feet in thickness, at depths respectively 
 of nine and eleven fathoms from the surface. The 
 works at Dollar have been discontinued ; but those at 
 Sheardale are in full operation, producing annually about 
 6000 tons for the supply of the neighbourhood. 
 
 The VILLAGE or town, which has greatly increased ft) 
 since the establishment of the Dollar Institution, is 
 pleasantly situated on the sloping plain in the centre 
 of the parish, and contains several handsome houses, 
 the residences of families connected with that establish- 
 ment, in addition to those inhabited by persons em- 
 ployed in the works in the neighbourhood. There is a 
 bleachfield here, belonging to Mr. Haig : in 1787 it com- 
 prised only about four acres ; but the concern has been 
 much extended, and at present not less than thirty 
 acres are appropriated to the bleaching of linen goods, 
 and more than sixty persons are employed, of whom 
 nearly one-half are women. The woollen manufacture, 
 for which a mill has been erected, is carried on to a 
 small extent ; and a manufactory of bricks and tiles has 
 been established, in which about twenty persons are 
 engaged. A branch office under the post-office at Alloa 
 has been established here ; and fairs, chiefly for cattle, 
 are held annually in May and October. Facility of com- 
 munication is afforded by the turnpike-road from Kin- 
 ross to Stirling, which passes through the parish. For 
 ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs tlic parish is within the bounds 
 of the presbytery of Stirling, synod of Perth and Stir- 
 ling. The minister's stipend is about £160, of which a 
 small part is paid from the exchequer ; with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £18 per annum : patrons, the 
 Globe Insurance Company. Dollar church, built in 
 1775, being insufficient for the increased population, 
 and also in a dilapidated condition, a new church was 
 erected in 1842, at a cost exceeding £2500, defraj'ed by 
 heritors and feuars ; it is a handsome structure in the 
 later English style, with a square embattled tower, after 
 a design by Mr. Tite, of London, and contains 6OO sit- 
 tings. There is a place of worship for members of the 
 United Original Secession. The parochial schoolmaster 
 has a salary of £25. 17-, with a house and garden, and 
 the fees average about £12 annually. 
 
 The Dollar Institution was founded in 1825, from the 
 proceeds of a legacy by Mr. John Macnab, a merchant of 
 London, who in 1 802 bequeathed £90,000 three per cents, 
 for the erection and endowment of a school, or some 
 other charitable institution, for the benefit of the poor 
 of his native parish. The trustees, originally consisting 
 of the minister and elders of the parish, appropriated 
 the funds to the estabhshment of a general seminary of 
 instruction in all the various branches of learning, and 
 have appointed six masters, to each of whom they give 
 a minimum salary of £140 per annum, with a large 
 house and garden, and the privilege of taking boarders. 
 There is also a female teacher, who receives a salary of 
 about £50, and has a house and garden. The branches 
 taught by the masters are, the English language, writing 
 and arithmetic, the Latin, Greek, and Oriental languages, 
 the modern languages, mathematics, drawing, and geo- 
 graphy. The number of scholars is about 300 ; and the 
 school fees, averaging £120 per annum, are paid to the 
 treasurer of the funds, which produce about £2000 per 
 annum. The buildings of the institution were erected
 
 DOLP 
 
 DORE 
 
 after a design by Mr. Playfair, of Edinburgh, at an ex- 
 pense of about £10,000, and form a spacious structure 
 in the Grecian style, 186 feet in length and 63 feet in 
 breadth. In the centre of the principal front is a stately 
 portico of si.x columns, supporting a cornice and pedi- 
 ment ; and the upper portion of the walls is crowned 
 with a handsome parapet. The building contains a hall 
 and library forty-five feet square, lighted by a cupola 
 forty-five feet in height, sustained on fluted columns ; a 
 museum, spacious class-rooms for the different masters, 
 and other apartments. It has a large lawn, and the 
 grounds on the north of the academy park, consisting 
 of several acres, have been formed into gardens and 
 nurseries, for the instruction of the pupils in horticul- 
 ture and botany. Connected with the institution is also 
 an extensive infant school, the teacher of which has a 
 salary of about £.50, with a house and garden. Thus, 
 altogether, there are eight teachers in the establishment. 
 An act was passed in 184/ for increasing the number 
 of trustees, and for incorporating them. The poor of 
 Dollar have, besides, the interest of other charitable 
 bequests amounting in the aggregate to £319. 
 
 DOLPHINGSfON, a village, in the parish of Pres- 
 TONPANS, county of Haddington, 1 mile (S. by W.) 
 from Prestonpans ; containing 63 inhabitants. This 
 place is on the road from Musselburgh to Tranent, from 
 which latter village it is distant, westward, about two 
 miles. Here are the ruins of an ancient building sup- 
 posed to have been a residence of monks, and there are 
 also some ruins of a family seat of the Earls of Hynd- 
 ford. 
 ^ DOLPHINTON, a parish, in the Upper ward of the 
 county of Lanark, 6 miles (S. W.) from Biggar ; con- 
 taining 305 inhabitants. This place, anciently Dolphins- 
 town, derived its name from Dolfine, elder brother of 
 Cospatrick, first Earl of Dunbar ; who in the reign of 
 Alexander I. acquired possession of the manor, which, 
 after passing through numerous families, several of 
 whom were eminently distinguished, was divided among 
 various proprietors. The parish is about three miles in 
 length, from east to west, and two miles and a half in 
 breadth ; and its surface, which has a gentle acclivity, 
 is tolerably level, with the exception of the hills of Dol- 
 phinton and Keir, the former 1550, and the latter 900, 
 feet above the level of the sea. The principal stream is 
 the Medwin, which near Garveld House divides into 
 two channels, one flowing eastward into the Tweed, and 
 the other westward into the river Clyde. There is also 
 a small rivulet which, after receiving several tributary 
 rills, falls into the Lyne. The scenery is generally 
 pleasing, but the want of wood renders it less pictu- 
 resque ; great numbers of young plantations, however, 
 have latterly been formed, which will soon contribute 
 much to its embellishment. 
 
 The SOIL is generally a dry friable loam, intermixed 
 with sand ; in some parts, a kind of clay with portions 
 of moss. The number of acres is estimated at 3668, 
 whereof 22'21 are arable, 444 in woods and plantations, 
 and the remainder, of which probably 300 acres might 
 be rendered arable, are rough pasture and waste. In 
 this parish the chief crops are oats and turnips, and 
 barley, wheat, and potatoes are also grown. The system 
 of agriculture is improved ; considerable progress has 
 been made in draining, and much land heretofore totally 
 unproductive has been converted into excellent meadow, 
 296 
 
 producing luxuriant crops of hay. Attention is paid to 
 the management of the dairy ; about 200 milch-cows, 
 chiefly of the Ayrshire breed, are kept in the several 
 farms, and about 100 head of young cattle are annually 
 reared. About 1000 sheep, also, are annually fed, the 
 greater number of which are of the black-faced, and a 
 few of the Cheviot breed. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £1988. The substrata are whin- 
 stone, sandstone, and freestone. Some indications of 
 lead-ore induced an attempt in search of that mineral, 
 but it was not attended with success ; fire-clay is ob- 
 tained, and in the southern extremity of the parish is 
 found a kind of stone well adapted for ovens. Dol- 
 phinton House and Newholm are handsome mansions 
 of modern erection. The road from Edinburgh to Biggar 
 intersects the parish. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Biggar, synod of Lothian 
 and Tweeddale. The stipend of the incumbent is £158, 
 of which above two-thirds are received from the ex- 
 chequer : the manse was put into thorough repair and 
 enlarged in 1828, and the glebe comprises about fourteen 
 acres, valued at £27- 10. per annum : patron, Lord 
 Douglas. Dolphinton church is a substantial edifice, 
 but altogether inadequate to the wants of the population; 
 it appears to have been built about two centuries since. 
 The parochial school is well conducted ; the master has 
 a salary of £26, with a house and garden, and the fees 
 average about £15. He receives, also, the rent of four 
 acres of land bequeathed by Wiliian Brown about 1658, 
 and now producing £8 per annum ; the interest of 1000 
 merks by the same benefactor, for the gratuitous in- 
 struction of poor children ; and the annual sum of 100 
 merks for instructing twenty children, bequeathed by 
 Mr. Bowie in 1*59. Mr. Bowie also bequeathed 100 
 merks a year for the education of any youth of promising 
 genius, or, in failure of such, to be appropriated to the 
 apprenticing of children ; fifty merks a year, either to 
 the poor, or for the purchase of school books for children ; 
 and fifty merks a year to the minister for managing the 
 property, which consists of lands at Stonypath, purchased 
 by the testator for 8000 merks, and given in trust to the 
 minister and Kirk Session for the above purposes. The 
 poor have the interest of 200 merks left by William 
 Brown about 1658. On the summit of Keir hill are 
 some remains of an ancient camp in good preservation ; 
 and there are similar remains at other places in the 
 parish. Within less than a mile south-west of the manse, 
 is a tumulus of stones, about four feet in height, sur- 
 rounded by a circle of upright stones inclosing an area 
 twenty paces in diameter. Near this spot was found an 
 ornament of fine gold, resembling part of a horse's bit, 
 with about forty gold beads. Stone coffins are frequently 
 found in various parts of the parish, of rude and ancient 
 construction ; aud numerous sepulchral remains. 
 
 DORE HOLM, an isle, in the parish of Northma- '^i-t'v. 
 VINE, county of Shetland. It is situated in the bay of .«, 
 
 St. Magnus, south of the mainland of the parish, and 
 derives its name from a remarkable arch which passes 
 through its centre, of lofty and capacious dimensions, 
 and admitting boatmen to fish in the waters beneath, 
 being lighted by an opening at the top. The islet is cue 
 of the smallest of the Shetland group. 
 
 DORES, a parish, in the county of Inverness, 74 /J 
 miles (S. S. W.) from Inverness ; containing 1745 inha- 
 
 Cl,J,
 
 DO R N 
 
 DO R N 
 
 bitants, of whom 80 are in the village. Its ancient name 
 was Durris, a word derived from the Gaelic term tur-ri-ish, 
 signifying rising ground near water. The parish is 
 situated nearly at the northern extremity, and on the 
 eastern shore, of Loch Ness, by which an elevated portion 
 of the lands is washed. It is between twenty and twenty- 
 five miles in length, and upwards of four miles in breadth, 
 comprising about '24,000 acres, of which 4000 are arable, 
 the same number wood and plantation, and the remainder 
 moorland pasture. A small part of the parish, contain- 
 ing twenty inhabitants, is locally in the parish of Bole- 
 skine. The surface is mountainous, with the exception 
 of a narrow valley which runs throughout the district ; 
 and on the high grounds are several lochs : the village 
 is of small extent, situated near the church, and from it 
 is obtained a prospect comprehending the whole of Loch 
 Ness, stretching for twenty-four miles. In the elevated 
 parts the soil is very superior, and, in seasons free from 
 frost and rain, produces excellent crops ; but the low 
 grounds are so hot in summer that the corn and grass 
 are much injured, and in dry weather would be parched 
 up were it not for the copious dews falling in the night. 
 The chief mansions are those of Aldourie, Eregie, and 
 Gortleg. There is a salmon-fishery in Loch Ness and 
 the river Ness, and fine trout, pike, and char are found 
 in the other lochs. The post-road from Inverness to 
 Fort Augustus intersects the parish ; and Loch Ness, 
 which is part of the line of the great Caledonian canal, 
 affords every facility for the importation of coal and lime, 
 and the exportation of timber and wool. The produce is 
 usually sent for sale to Inverness ; but salmon, sheep, 
 and fat-cattle are conveyed to the London market. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £3165. 
 
 Dores is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Inverness, 
 synod of Moray, and in the patronage of Earl Cawdor ; 
 the minister's stipend is £14'2, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £8 per annum. The church is a neat edifice, 
 built in 1827, and there is a preaching-station in the 
 south-western part of the parish. The parochial school 
 affords instruction in the ordinary branches ; the master 
 has a salary of £30, with a house and garden, and £10 
 fees. There is also an Assembly's school, and a school 
 is supported by the Society for Propagating Christian 
 Knowledge. The relics of antiquity comprise the remains 
 of a vitrified fort called Caslle-dun-Richuan, or the Castle 
 of the King of the Ocean ; and a little to the east of this 
 is an eminence called Drum-Ashi, or Ashi's Hill, where, 
 according to tradition, Fingal fought with and killed 
 Ashi, the son of the Norwegian king. The distinguished 
 statesman, Sir James Mackintosh, author of ^indicia 
 Galtica, and recorder of Bombay, was born in the parish 
 in ITG.'i. 
 JJjUf DORNIE and BUNDALOCH, a village, in the parish 
 ' of KiNTAiL, county of Ross and Cromarty, 7 miles 
 (N.N. W.) from Sheilhouse ; containing 510 inhabitants. 
 This is a fishing-village on the banks of a branch of 
 Loch Duich, from which the sea is entered by Loch 
 Alsh. There is a small bay, and Dornie and Bundaloch 
 immediately adjoin each other, and form one village, in 
 which are some houses of respectable appearance ; the 
 scenery around is very romantic, and above the village 
 are to be seen the mountains of Skye. In the vicinity 
 are the ruins of Ellandonau Castle, the ancient seat of 
 the Mackenzies of Seaford, occupying a rocky islet sur- 
 rounded by the sea at flood-tide. This castle is said to 
 Vol. I.— 297 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 have been built by Alexander II., to overawe the Danes 
 and Norwegians ; and in the reign of James V. the 
 Macdonalds of Sleat in vain attempted to besiege it. 
 Directly opposite, on the coast of Letterfairn, are the 
 remains of the ancient circular castle of Gruagach. On 
 the landward part of the islet is a fresh-water spring 
 
 DORNOCH, a royal .^,,^GM3((?^ (^ 
 
 burgh, the county town, and 
 a parish, in the county of 
 Sutherland, 201 miles (N. 
 N. W.) from the city of Edin- 
 burgh; containing 2714 in- 
 habitants, of whom 451 are 
 in the burgh. This place is 
 supposed to have derived 
 its name, Dor-Neich or Dor- 
 Nach, signifying in the Celtic 
 language a horse's hoof, from 
 the slaughter of a Danish 
 general, who made a descent upon this part of the coast 
 in 1259, and was encountered by William, Thane of 
 Sutherland, who, having lost his sword in the battle, 
 seized the leg of a horse lying on the ground, with which 
 he killed his adversary, and put his followers to flight. 
 It is of considerable antiquity, and in 1150 was an epis- 
 copal city, the residence of the bishops of Caithness, 
 within whose province the county of Sutherland was in- 
 cluded, and of whom Andrew is supposed to have erected 
 the cathedral. His successor, Gilbert Murray, who was 
 consecrated in 1222, greatly enlarged and beautified the 
 church, in which, upon his decease in 1245 at Caithness, 
 where the bishops had also a residence, a statue was 
 erected to his memory, under the designation of St. 
 Gilbert. All the glass used in the erection of the cathe- 
 dral is said to have been made at Sydderay, about two 
 miles from Dornoch. After the death of John, Earl of 
 Sutherland, and his countess, who in 1567 were both 
 poisoned at Helmsdale at the instigation of the Earl of 
 Caithness, Mc Kay of Far, taking advantage of the 
 minority of the young earl, then only fifteen years of age, 
 invaded the county of Sutherland, set fire to the town of 
 Dornoch, and laid waste the barony of Skibo. The 
 young earl, who then resided in the castle of Skibo, was, 
 through the persuasion of the bishop, given up to tlie 
 Earl of Caithness, by whom he was carried off, and, 
 although but fifteen years of age, married to his daughter, 
 aged thirty -two; "an unfit match indeed", says Sir 
 Robert Gordon in his history of the Earls of Sutherland. 
 In 1570, the town and castle were besieged by the Laird 
 of Duffus and his adherents ; but being obstinately de- 
 fended, they set fire to the cathedral, which, with the 
 exception only of the tower, was completely destroyed. 
 In 16 14, the Earl of Sutherland commenced rebuilding 
 the cathedral, which for many years served for a place 
 of worship ; but subsequently falling into decay, it was 
 restored by the late Duchess- Countess of Sutherland, 
 during the years 1835, 6, 7, 8, and 9, at a great expense ; 
 and though its restoration, unfortunately, was not en- 
 trusted to competent hands, it still forms one of the 
 most interesting religious edifices in the kingdom. The 
 lower portion of the structure contains the tombs of the 
 ancient earls, and those of the late Duke and Duchess 
 of Sutherland. 
 
 The TOWN is situated on the western shore of Dornoch f^ 
 Firth, at the south-eastern extremity of the parish, and 
 
 2Q
 
 D O R N 
 
 D O R N 
 
 consists of several spacious well-formed streets ; the 
 houses are of a very inferior order, little better than 
 humble cottages, and though the county town, the place 
 has only the appearance of an insignificant hamlet. It 
 has been much improved within the last few years by 
 the removal of some ruinous and unsightly buildings. 
 There is a respectable inn, of late years handsomely en- 
 larged, at which the mail stops daily in its passage to 
 and from the north ; a post-office is established, and 
 there are also a branch bank, a savings' bank, and a 
 friendly society. Near the town are perhaps the finest 
 links in Scotland, and admirably adapted for games and 
 exercises : the shore, too, is excellent for sea-bathiug. 
 No trade or manufacture is carried on : even the market 
 has been long declining, and is now but little frequented. 
 Fairs are held ou the first Wednesdays in February, 
 July, November, and December, for cattle ; and also on 
 the third Wednesday in INIarch, and on the 20th of July 
 (O. S.), if on Wednesday, or if not, on the first Wednes- 
 day after. The town was erected into a royal burgh in 
 16'28, by charter of Charles I., under which the govern- 
 ment is vested in a provost, four bailies, a dean of guild, 
 a treasurer, and eight councillors. It is also the residence 
 of the sheriff-substitute, sheriff-clerk, and procurator- 
 fiscal. There are no incorporated trades or companies, 
 nor have the burgesses any exclusive privileges ; the 
 jurisdiction of the magistrates, though equal in extent to 
 that of other royal burghs, is little more than nominal, 
 and few if any causes either civil or criminal are brought 
 for their decision. The tower of the ancient episcopal 
 castle is appropriated as a court-house, and for the public 
 offices and public records of the county ; and a new 
 county prison has been erected, possessing every requisite 
 for the classification and employment of the prisoners. 
 Dornoch is associated with Cromarty, Dingwall, Kirk- 
 wall, Tain, and Wick, in returning a member to the im- 
 perial parliament ; the number of qualified voters is 
 thirty-eight. It also sends for itself a commissioner to 
 the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland. As 
 already observed, Dornoch is the county town ; but its 
 very uncentral locality and other disadvantages render 
 it far from convenient to the inhabitants of the shire 
 generally, as the seat of the administration of the law, 
 and of the public affairs of the county. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the east and south by 
 Dornoch Firth, and on the north-east by Loch Fleet, 
 and is about fifteen miles in length and nine in breadth. 
 Its surface towards the sea is generally flat, and in other 
 parts diversified with hills of no very considerable height. 
 The principal rivers are, the Carnaig, which rises to the 
 south of TorboU, and flows through a strath into Loch 
 Fleet, near the sands of Torboll ; and the Evelix, whose 
 source is near the head of the valley through which it 
 flows, between richly-wooded banks, into Dornoch Firth 
 near the Muckle ferry. The coast, with the exception of 
 a few small rocks at Embo, to the north of the town, is 
 flat and sandy. At the south extremity is the Muckle 
 ferry, connecting the parish with the county of Ross, 
 and which the north mail crosses daily : it is a most in- 
 convenient and dangerous impediment to travellers, and 
 apparently the passage and landings might be much im- 
 proved. Along the northern boundary is Loch Fleet, 
 forming an excellent harbour at Little Ferry, about three 
 miles east of which an earthen mound nearly 1000 feet 
 in length has been constructed by the parliamentary 
 298 
 
 commissioners, at a cost of £12,000, affording commu- 
 nication between the parishes of Golspie and Dornoch. 
 The rivers contain trout, which are also found in several 
 small lakes among the hills. Though generally light, 
 the soil varies from a sandy moss to clay alternated with 
 sand ; the crops are oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and 
 turnips. The system of agriculture has been greatly 
 improved within the last few years ; extensive tracts of 
 waste have been reclaimed and rendered profitable, and 
 more than 6000 acres are now arable and in good cul- 
 tivation. The farm-buildings are mostly substantial and 
 comfortable ; and attached to several of the farms are 
 threshing-mills, some of which are driven by water. The 
 cattle pastured are of the Highland black breed ; and the 
 sheep chiefly of the Cheviot, lately introduced. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £3336. 
 
 There are many thousand acres of woodland on the 
 Sutherland estate, consisting of Scotch fir, larch, birch, 
 alder, and various hard-wood trees, all in a thriving state. 
 Large additional tracts of moor ground, formerly bearing 
 nothing but heather, and almost valueless, are also being 
 annually planted. Coal has been found at Clashmore, 
 and freestone of good quality for building occurs in 
 various places ; near the town is a large quarry, and at 
 Embo and in other parts of the parish are quarries on a 
 less extensive scale. Skibo Castle, a modern structure, 
 erected on the site of the ancient castle of that name, is 
 a handsome family residence : in its vicinity is some 
 very rich alluvial land. The chief villages are, the fish- 
 ing-village of Embo, situated on the coast between the 
 town of Dornoch and the Little ferry ; and the pleasant 
 village of Clashmore, in which is a commodious inn, 
 about three miles to the north of the Muckle ferry, and 
 the same distance from Dornoch. For ecclesiastical 
 purposes the parish is within the bounds of the presby- 
 tery of Dornoch, synod of Sutherland and Caithness. 
 The minister's stipend is £266. 13., with a manse, and 
 a glebe valued at £10 per annum ; patron, the Duke of 
 Sutherland. Dornoch church, formerly the cathedral, is 
 a venerable structure containing 1100 sittings. A place 
 of worship has been erected for the members of the Free 
 Church. The parochial school is held in a portion of 
 the episcopal palace ; the master has a salary of £34, 
 with a house and garden, and the fees average £6. 
 Another school is held in a handsome school-house 
 erected by the Duke of Sutherland within the last few 
 years. There are still some remains of the ancient castle 
 of Skelbo, on an eminence rising from the sea near the 
 Little ferry ; and the cross erected in commemoration 
 of the exploit from which the burgh is supposed to have 
 taken its name, and to which the common seal has an 
 allusion, is, though much defaced, still remaining. In 
 the parish are also two singular standing stones or pillars, 
 about eight or nine feet high, and in a line with a similar 
 stone in the adjoining parish of Criech : they are evidently 
 of ancient date, but no tradition is now extant as to 
 what their purpose was. 
 
 DORNOCK, a parish, in the county of Dumfries ;^ 
 including the village of Lowthertown, and containing 
 84/ inhabitants, of whom 203 are in the village of Dor- 
 nock, 2 miles (E. by S.) from Annan. The name of this 
 place is usually derived from the Celtic words tor or dor, 
 signifying an oak or wood, and nock, a knowe or hill, and 
 is said to have been applied in consequence of forests of 
 oak once growing here. According to a prevailing tra-
 
 DOR N 
 
 DOUG 
 
 dition, a battle was fought upon a moor in the neigh- 
 bourhood, betsveen a party of English under Sir Marma- 
 duke Langdale and Lord Crosby, and a body of Scots 
 under Sir William Brown of Coalston, in which the 
 English were defeated, and both their commanders slain. 
 The supposed graves of the two leaders are still shown 
 in the churchyard, and a spring near the spot where the 
 battle was fought bears the name of the Sword Well. At 
 Stapleton is a strong square tower with battlements on 
 the top, built by a person of the name of Irvine, it is 
 supposed as a place of safety against the depredations of 
 the English borderers. 
 
 The PARISH reaches from east to west about two miles 
 and a half, and from the Solway Firth on the south to 
 the river Kirtle on the north measures five miles, com- 
 prising an area of about 5000 acres. It contains some 
 beautiful scenery, and is much frequented for its sea air 
 and bathing. The small river Kirtle and the expanse of 
 the Solway comprehend the chief of its waters ; in the 
 former eels and pike are found, and salmon-fishings are 
 carried on in the Solway to a considerable extent by 
 means of stake-nets. The greater part of the land is 
 under tillage, and large tracts in the parish are appro- 
 priated to grazing ; the mosses, which alone are uncul- 
 tivated, amount to about 300 acres, and 150 acres are 
 plantation. Oats and barley are the only grain sown, 
 while potatoes and turnips, with large quantities of hay, 
 are the chief green crops ; the soil is of a loamy nature, 
 with a hard tilly bottom, and is in general productive. 
 The cattle are of the Galloway breed, and about 200 
 cows are kept for the dairy ; a considerable number of 
 swine are fattened, and the hams sent to England. The 
 best system of husbandry is adopted ; the manure used 
 is farm-yard dung, and lime ; draining has been carried 
 on to a good extent, and improvements are still in pro- 
 gress. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £3503. Robgill Tower, an old border fortress, mo- 
 dernised, and now the residence of the Smail family, is 
 beautifully seated on the banks of the Kirtle. The vil- 
 lage of Dornock is pleasantly situated upon a gentle 
 eminence about a mile from the coast, and commands 
 a fine view of the Firth ; a third of the inhabitants are 
 engaged in hand-loom weaving and the manufacture of 
 checks and ginghams. The Glasgow, Dumfries, and 
 Carlisle railway, and the turnpike-road from Carlisle to 
 Portpatrick, run through the centre of the parish from 
 east to west, the former passing by the village, and the 
 latter through it : the railway has a station here. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Annan and synod of Dumfries ; patron, the Duke of 
 Buccleuch. The stipend is £208, and there is a manse, 
 built in 1845, with a glebe valued at £'25 per annum. 
 Dornock church, built in 1*97, is a plain unadorned 
 structure, containing 300 sittings : in the churchyard 
 are some ancient and rather curious tombstones. There 
 is a parochial school, in which all the usual branches of 
 education, and sometimes Greek and Latin, and also 
 mathematics, are taught ; the master has a salary of 
 £34, about £20 fees, and the allowance of a house and 
 garden, with an acre of land. The remains of a Druid- 
 ical temple are still to be seen in the eastern part of the 
 parish, on the farm of Eastriggs : at the distance of 200 
 yards west of it, is a large cairn ; and at the same dis- 
 tance eastward is another, of smaller dimensions. Old 
 British coins and pieces of armour have been found. 
 299 
 
 DOUGLAS, a market-town and parish, in the Upper (^ 
 ward of the county of Lanark ; including the village of 
 Uddington, and containing 2467 inhabitants, of whom 
 1313 are in the town of Douglas, 5 miles (S. S. E.) from 
 Crawfordjohn, and 40i (S. W. by S.) from Edinburgh. 
 This place derives its name from the ancient and re- 
 nowned family of Douglas, to whose ancestor Theobald, 
 by birth a Fleming, Arnold, abbot of Kelso, gave a large 
 tract of land about the middle of the twelfth century. 
 William, son of Theobald, appears as a witness to various 
 charters granted towards the close of the same century ; 
 and in 1289 his descendant, William Douglas, was one 
 of the Scottish barons who signed an address to Edward 
 I. of England, on behalf of their countrymen. During 
 the protracted warfare between England and Scotland 
 in the reign of that monarch, Douglas Castle, which was 
 strongly fortified, and commanded the entrance to the 
 western counties, was an object of continual dispute 
 between the contending parties. It frequently fell into 
 the hands of the English, from whom it was as fre- 
 quently retaken by its original proprietors. On one 
 occasion it was taken from Sir John De Walton, its 
 occupier for the English, by Sir James Douglas, who, 
 having assembled a strong retinue of his friends, entered 
 the town on Palm-Sunday, while part of the garrison 
 were at church, and attacking them as they came out, 
 put them to the sword, and immediately advancing to 
 the castle, made himself master of the place. The castle, 
 exposed to repeated assaults, was of very precarious 
 tenure, and, from the difficulty of maintaining posses- 
 sion, was distinguished by the appellation of the Castle 
 of Danger. It was often destroyed, and more than once 
 by fire ; but it was always restored in greater splendour. 
 On the death of the Duke of Douglas without issue in 
 the year I76O, arose the famous law plea known by the 
 name of the Douglas Cause, which was at length decided 
 by the house of peers in favour of Archibald, son of Sir 
 John Stewart of Grandtully, by Lady Jane Douglas, the 
 duke's sister. Thus the estates of the family were 
 vested in the duke's nephew; and in 1790 the title was 
 revived by the elevation of that gentleman to the peer- 
 age, by the title of Baron Douglas of Douglas. 
 
 The PARISH is situated near the south-western extre- f^ 
 mity of the county, and is about twelve miles in length, 
 and from four to seven miles in breadth, comprising 
 35,318 acres, of which about 5000 are arable, 28,000 
 pasture, 2000 wood, and 400 waste land and moss. The 
 Douglas river intersects the parish, flowing through a 
 valley that increases in breadth as it approaches the 
 river Clyde, into which the Douglas discharges itself, 
 after receiving in its course numerous tributary streams. 
 On both sides of the valley the ground rises to a consi- 
 derable elevation, forming in some parts a succession of 
 hills that terminate towards the west in the Cairntable 
 mountain, whose summit is 1650 feet above the level of 
 the sea, and at the base of which the Douglas has its 
 source. The heights on each side of the river are em- 
 bellished with ornamental plantations; and in various 
 parts of the parish are extensive woods of ancient and 
 luxuriant growth, especially near Douglas Castle, in the 
 grounds of which are some ash and plane trees of large 
 dimensions. The soil is generally fertile in the vale ; 
 in other parts lighter and gravelly, and in some a stiff 
 clay : the moors afford fine sheep-walks, and in many 
 places consist of rich black loam. The grain crops are 
 
 2 Q2
 
 DOUG 
 
 DOUG 
 
 oats, barley, and bear, with occasionally wheat, the cul- 
 tivation of which has been introduced with success, but 
 on a very small scale ; and turnips and potatoes, for 
 which the soil is favourable, are raised in large quantities. 
 The pastures are extensive and rich, and numbers of 
 sheep are reared, to the improvement of which much 
 attention is paid ; the average number exceeds '25,000, 
 chiefly of the black-faced breed, which has been brought 
 to great perfection. There are numerous dairy-farms, 
 producing cheese and butter of superior quality ; the 
 cows are the Ayrshire, numbering about 500, and about 
 the same number of black-cattle are fed. In this parish 
 are some quarries of freestone of excellent quality for 
 building ; it is of a fine white colour, and is much ad- 
 mired. Limestone is also prevalent, and is quarried for 
 agricultural and other purposes : coal is very abundant, 
 and numerous mines have been opened, affording sup- 
 plies of fuel to the places situated to the south and east, 
 and giving employment to a great number of the popu- 
 lation. Ironstone is found in several parts of the parish, 
 though not worked ; and in others its prevalence may 
 be inferred from the property of many of the springs, 
 which are strongly impregnated with iron. Great ad- 
 vances have been made in draining and inclosing the 
 lands, and the annual value of real property in the parish 
 is now £11,013. 
 
 Douglas Castle, the seat of Lord Douglas, is beauti- 
 fully situated in grounds that were very much improved 
 by a late proprietor. The castle, which was partly re- 
 built after being destroyed by an accidental fire, has not, 
 though a splendid seat in its present state, been completed 
 according to the original plan designed by Mr. Adam. 
 One wing only has been finished ; and from the dimen- 
 sions of this, which contains more than fifty apartments, 
 some of them magnificent, the whole would have formed 
 one of the most extensive residences in the kingdom. 
 The scene of Castle- Dangerous, the last novel of Sir 
 Walter Scott, was laid here. The other gentlemen's 
 seats in the parish are Carmacoup, Spring Hill, and 
 Crossburn House, an elegant villa, the grounds of which 
 are tastefully disposed. The town or village is of great 
 antiquity, and at one time was of some importance. As 
 the head of the barony, it had a charter of incorporation 
 giving to its magistrates many privileges, among which 
 was the power of jurisdiction in capital offences ; and to 
 the east of the town is an eminence called Gallow Hill, 
 formerly the place for the execution of criminals. The 
 streets are narrow, and most of the houses are of ancient 
 date, and apparently built for defence against the fre- 
 quent incursions of an enemy ; the walls are massive, 
 and the windows few and small, presenting a forbidding 
 and gloomy appearance. Several houses of a more airy 
 construction have of late years been built. There is a 
 subscription library, which at present contains more 
 than 1000 volumes, and is rapidly increasing. A cotton- 
 factory was established here in 1792 by a company from 
 Glasgow, which after a few years declined ; but many 
 of the inhabitants are still employed in weaving cotton 
 for the manufacturers of that city, with handlooms in 
 their own dwellings. The market is held on Friday, and 
 there are seven fairs, which are well attended. In 1847 
 an act of parliament was passed, authorizing the Cale- 
 donian railway company to make a branch from their 
 Clydesdale junction line to the Douglas mineral field. 
 The road from Edinburgh to Ayr, and that from Glas- 
 300 
 
 gow to London, both pass through the parish, and the 
 former through the town. In respect of trade, the town 
 is at present little more than a village for the residence 
 of persons employed in weaving, and other mechanical 
 occupations. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Lanark, synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr : patron. Lord Douglas. The stipend of the 
 incumbent is about £250 ; the manse is a handsome 
 residence, built in 1828, and pleasantly situated in 
 grounds well laid out, and the glebe, which is extensive, 
 comprises some valuable land. Of the ancient church, 
 which appears to have been a very stately and elegant 
 structure, little more remains than the sepulchral chapel 
 of the Douglas family, with a small spire. The chapel 
 contains many monuments, which, though much muti- 
 lated and defaced by Cromwell's soldiers, still display 
 features of exquisite sculpture. Among them is the 
 monument of Sir James Douglas, the firm adherent and 
 friend of Robert Bruce, who fell in combat in Spain, and 
 whose remains were conveyed by his companions in arms 
 for interment in the church of his native place. It is of 
 dark-coloured stone, and bears the recumbent figure of 
 a knight armed cap-5i-pie, with the legs crossed, in refer- 
 ence to his having been on a crusade to the Holy Land. 
 There is also a monument to Archibald Douglas, Duke 
 of Touraine, which appears to have been of elaborate 
 workmanship ; and in a niche is a table-monument to 
 James Douglas, Duke of Touraine, with two recumbent 
 figures, and ornamented with ten figures in basso-relievo 
 beneath. The present church, a comparatively modern 
 building, is not sufficiently spacious for the accommoda- 
 tion of the parishioners : underneath it is a vault in 
 which are deposited the remains of numerous members 
 of the Douglas family, for which the ancient sepulchral 
 chapel afforded no room. The parochial school is well 
 attended ; the master has the maximum salary, with an 
 excellent dwelling-house and garden, and the fees amount 
 to about £60. Near the base of Cairntable mountain 
 are the remains of a fortified post, probably occupied by 
 the Douglases during their repeated attempts to surprise 
 the English garrisons that so frequently held possession 
 of Douglas Castle; and within a mile of the castle are 
 the remains of a stronghold called Tothorl Castle, sup- 
 posed to have been thrown up by Sir Richard de Thirl- 
 wall, who was lieutenant-governor of Douglas under Sir 
 Robert de Clifford. Within the castle-grounds is a 
 mound designated Boncastle, near which has been found 
 an urn, with a great number of human bones, a ring of 
 pure gold of great weight, the head of a spear, and various 
 other relics of antiquity. There are also several cairns 
 in the parish. Among the natives of this place most 
 distinguished for literary attainments, was Dr. John 
 Black, author of the Life of Tasso and other works. 
 
 DOUGLAS, CASTLE, in the county of Kirkcud- 
 bright. — See Castle-Douglas. 
 
 DOUGLASTON, a manufacturing village, in the 
 parish of Kinnettles, county of Forfar, 3 miles (S. W.) 
 from Forfar; containing 81 inhabitants. This place de- 
 rives its name from the late Robert Douglas, Esq., by 
 whom it was erected in 1792, for the accommodation of 
 the persons employed in his extensive works. A spin- 
 ning-mill, of stone, roofed with blue slate from the quar- 
 ries of the parish, and four stories in height, was com- 
 pleted here towards the close of the last century ; and
 
 DOUN 
 
 DOUR 
 
 the introduction of the spinning of yarn, which furnished 
 employment to a considerable number of hands, was 
 followed up by the erection of looms for weaving the 
 yarn into various fabrics, the principal of which were 
 Osnaburgs, Hessians, and brown and bleached sheetings. 
 The machinery is of the most improved kind, and is 
 propelled partly by a steam-engine of seven-horse power, 
 and partly by water power equal to that of five horses. 
 The village is pleasantly situated on the banks of the 
 Kerbit rivulet, over which is a very handsome stone 
 bridge of three arches, erected in the j'car 1770. A 
 branch post between Forfar and Glammis delivers let- 
 ters here ; and the road from Dundee to Forfar, and also 
 the Strathmore road, pass through the village. 
 
 DOUNE, a town, in the parish of Kilmadock, 
 couijty of Pkrth, 8 miles (N. W.) from Stirling, and 44 
 (N. W. by \V.) from Edinburgh; containing 1559 inha- 
 bitants. This place, which is situated on the banks of 
 the river Teith, near its confluence with the Ardoch, 
 owes its origin to a castle founded here, according to 
 some (but disputed) accounts, by Murdoch, grandson of 
 Robert II., and who in 1370 was created Earl of Mon- 
 teith, and in 1398 Duke of Albany. Murdoch was taken 
 prisoner by the English at the battle of Homelden in 
 1401, and detained in captivity till the year 1411, when 
 he was exchanged for Percy, Earl of Northumberland, 
 from which time he continued to live in retirement till 
 the death of his father in 1420, when he succeeded to 
 the regency, which, however, after a disastrous govern- 
 ment of four years, he resigned. Subsequently a charge 
 of high treason was preferred against him, his two sons 
 Walter and Alexander, and his fafher-in-law Duncan, 
 Earl of Lennox, who were all seized and carried prisoners 
 to Stirling, where, being brought to trial and found guilty, 
 they were beheaded. Isabella, the wife of Murdoch, 
 was taken from the castle of Doune, and conveyed to 
 that of Tantallan in Lothian, to which place, upon their 
 decapitation, the heads of her father, husband, and chil- 
 dren were sent to her in her prison, with a view to extort 
 a revelation of the alleged treason ; but she heroically 
 replied, that "if the crime alleged against the parties were 
 true, the king had done justly and according to law". 
 
 The castle of Doune was seized by James I., and an- 
 nexed to the crown, of which it continued to form an 
 appendage till the year 1502, when Margaret, daughter 
 of Henry VII. of England, on her marriage to James IV., 
 obtained it as part of her settlement. After the death 
 of James IV., Margaret married, in 1528, Henry, Lord 
 Methven, a descendant of Murdoch, Duke of Albany ; 
 and, with the consent of her husband, granted to James 
 Stuart, a younger brother of Lord Methven, the consta- 
 bleship of the castle for life. This grant was confirmed 
 to him and to his heirs for ever by James V., and the 
 office is still held by his descendant, the present Earl of 
 Moray. Mary, Queen of Scots, and her husband Lord 
 Darnley, frequently made the castle their resort as a 
 hunting-seat ; and in 1745 it was garrisoned by Mc 
 Gregor of Glengyle, nephew of Rob Roy, who held it 
 for Prince Charles Edward. A party of royalist volun- 
 teers from the university of Edinburgh, among whom 
 was Home, the author of Douglas, having in one of their 
 excursions ventured as far as the Teith, were all captured 
 by Glengyle, and confined in the castle, from which 
 they ultimately effected their escape by climbing over 
 the walls, as related by Mr. Home in his History of the 
 301 
 
 Rebellion of 1745. The remains, situated on a peninsular 
 eminence, at the confluence of the Teith and the Ardoch, 
 convey a tolerably adequate idea of the ancient magnifi- 
 cence of the castle ; the walls, though roofless, are still 
 entire, forty feet in height and ten feet in thickness, in- 
 closing a quadrilateral area ninety-six feet in length and 
 of equal breadth. In the north-east angle is a massive 
 tower eighty feet in height, and at the opposite angle is 
 another tower, forty feet high. The great hall is sixty- 
 three feet in length, by twenty-five feet wide ; and the 
 kitchen, and many of the family apartments, are spacious 
 and in tolerable preservation. In the lower portions of 
 the building are several cells and dungeons of frightful 
 appearance. The whole of the ruins have a stately and 
 imposing aspect, and, from their situation, form a strik- 
 ingly romantic feature in the scenery. 
 
 The TOWN has been much improved since the esta- 
 blishment of the cotton-works in the adjacent village of 
 Deanston. It consists principally of three streets di- 
 verging from the market cross, which is situated on the 
 spot where the roads from Bridge of Teith and Callander 
 meet ; the houses are generally of neat appearance, and 
 several of the more modern are of handsome character. 
 The manufacture of Highland pistols was formerly car- 
 ried on here to a great extent, and the town was in high 
 reputation for them ; the pistols made varied in price 
 from two to twenty-four guineas per pair, and were 
 supplied to most of the nobility of Europe. The manu- 
 facture of Highland purses was also extensive, but these 
 have totally disappeared, and the population is at pre- 
 sent employed chiefly in agriculture or in the adjacent 
 manufactory. A post-office is established here, and 
 there is a savings' bank. Fairs are held on the second 
 Wednesday in February, for the sale of grain and for 
 general business ; the second Wednesday in May, for 
 milch-cows and cattle ; the last Wednesday in July, for 
 horses and cattle, the hiring of shearers, and other busi- 
 ness ; the first Tuesday and Wednesday in November, 
 for sheep and black-cattle (a very large fair, called the 
 Latter fair) ; the last Wednesday in that month, for 
 horses and cattle ; and the last Wednesday in December, 
 for fat-cattle, grain, and general business. Facility of 
 communication is afforded by parish and turnpike roads, 
 as well as by the Scottish Central railway, to which 
 there are regular conveyances. In 1846 an act was 
 passed for the construction of a line from the Scottish 
 Central railway, to Doune and Callander. Here is the 
 parish church with its handsome tower, and the mem- 
 bers of the Free Church have two places of worship, one 
 of them formerly belonging to the Old Light body. 
 There are also a place of worship for Wesleyans, and a 
 congregation of Independents. Doune gives the title of 
 Baron to the Earl of Moray. — See Kilmadock. > 
 
 DOURA, a village, in the parish of Kilwinning, 'V \A^~AJji 
 district of Cunninghame, county of Ayr, 3^ miles 
 (N. E. by E.) from Irvine ; containing 3'20 inhabitants. 
 This place is situated on the road from Irvine to Dun- 
 lop, and between the Annock water on the south-east 
 and the Lugton river on the west. The population is 
 chiefly employed in the coal-mines in the vicinity. A 
 branch of the Glasgow and Ayr railway, proceeding 
 from the collieries here, supplies Ardrossan and various 
 other places with coal, which is very abundant in the 
 parish. Large school premises have lately been erected 
 at the expense of the Earl of Eglinton.
 
 D R A I 
 
 D R A I 
 
 DOVECOTLAND, a village, in the East parish of 
 the city and county of Perth } containing 502 inhabit- 
 ants. — See Perth. 
 
 DOVEHILL, a village, in the Abbey parish of the 
 town of Paisley, Upper ward of the county of Ren- 
 frew ; forming part of the late quoad sacra parish of 
 Levern, and containing 131 inhabitants. 
 
 DOWALLY, county of Perth. — See Dunkeld. 
 ^ uW-*^ DOWNIES, a village, in the parish of Banchory- 
 Devenick, county of Kincardine, 8 miles (S.) from 
 Aberdeen ; containing 122 inhabitants. It is a small 
 fishing-village, on the coast, and lying in the extreme 
 south point of the parish. There is a very convenient 
 cove here for fishing-boats, several of which belong to 
 the place, each manned with four or five hands, em- 
 ployed in white-fishing, and sometimes visiting the Mo- 
 ray Firth in the herring season. The Aberdeen railway 
 passes at a short distance. 
 ^ DRAINIE, a parish, in the county of Elgin ; in- 
 
 cluding the villages of Lossiemouth and Stotfield, and 
 containing 1515 inhabitants, of whom 16 are in the 
 hamlet of Drainie, 4 miles (N.) from Elgin. This parish 
 consists of the ancient parishes of Kinnedar, a parsonage, 
 and Ogston, a mensal church ; of which latter the 
 Bishop of Moray received the great teinds. Ogston was 
 disjoined from St. Andrew's, and annexed to Kinnedar, 
 in 1642. The name of Drainie, belonging to an estate 
 on which a new church was built about the year 1666, 
 was after that event applied to the whole parish. The 
 parish is partly a peninsula, as the ancient name Kin- 
 nedar implies, and is bounded on the north by the Mo- 
 ray Firth, on the east by the river Lossie, and on the 
 south by the lake of Spynie, a piece of fresh water three 
 miles in length and one in breadth, well stocked with 
 eels and pike, and the resort of numerous aquatic birds. 
 Drainie is about four miles long and two broad, and 
 comprises 44S0 acres, of which 3385 are in tillage, 365 
 under wood, and the remainder uncultivated. The coast 
 is bold and rocky ; and at the distance of a mile from 
 the shore, opposite to the Coulard and Causea hills, is 
 a dangerous reef, the dread of mariners, the centre of 
 which, however, being always above water, serves as a 
 beacon for avoiding the lower branches, stretching along 
 unseen to a considerable distance on each side. There 
 are two harbours, one at Stotfield, the other at the 
 mouth of the river Lossie ; and the numerous caves and 
 fissures near the hamlet of Causea or Cove-sea, consti- 
 tute a distinct and interesting feature in the scenery. 
 The whole of the rock in this latter direction is a con- 
 tinuous mass of freestone, the softer parts of svhich, by 
 the action of the winds and waves, have been wrought 
 into a great variety of arches and pillars. A little to the 
 west is a cave, once the cell of a hermit, and used by 
 Sir Robert Gordon in the rebellion of 1745, for conceal- 
 ing his horses, when the followers of Prince Charles 
 were ravaging this district ; and farther in the same 
 direction are many other caverns, but the coast is too 
 rugged and dangerous to allow them to be explored. 
 
 All the low lands in the parish were formerly covered 
 by the sea, which, when it receded, left a beach of stones, 
 from about eight to twenty feet in height above the level 
 of the lands under tillage, and which is beneficial as a 
 protection against storms from the north. The interior 
 is flat, and the soil of great diversity of quality, good 
 and bad alternating with each other in rapid succession 
 302 
 
 throughout. The low drained grounds consist of a rich 
 loam or clayey marl, and produce fine crops ; the higher 
 lands have a lighter soil, resting upon a gravelly bed or 
 on white sand, and a portion in the centre is of the worst 
 description, having been denuded of its surface for the 
 purpose of fuel. The usual white and green crops are 
 raised, in some parts of superior quality, and the six- 
 shift course is followed ; but husbandry is in a compa- 
 ratively low state, very little land having undergone the 
 process of draining, and some of the modern improve- 
 ments being only partially in operation. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £5208. The 
 Causea quarries supply abundance of freestone, which 
 has been extensively used for ornamental work in the 
 mansions of this and several adjacent counties ; and in 
 the fluor-spar rocks of the Coulard hill, lead of superior 
 quality has been discovered, near which is a bed of lime- 
 stone. A vein of lead was found and worked about the 
 close of the last century, but the operation was discon- 
 tinued, the return being inadequate to the expense. 
 The plantations, of limited extent, consist of firs or pine 
 irregularly scattered about the waste tract in the middle 
 of the parish, and one or two clumps of firs in the south- 
 east. The mansion of Gordonstown, on the estate of 
 that name, is a large structure in the Dutch style, re- 
 paired and enlarged in 1730; it is now the seat of .the 
 Cummings, and was for several centuries the residence 
 of the Gordons of Gordonstown. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of El- 
 gin, synod of Moray, and in the patronage of Sir Wil- 
 liam Gordon Gordon Gumming, of Altyre and Gordons- 
 town, Bart. ; the minister's stipend is £242, with a manse, 
 and a glebe of six acres. The present church was built 
 in 1823, nearly in the centre of the parish, but somewhat 
 inconveniently for the villages, where the bulk of the po- 
 pulation, which is rapidly increasing, is located. Drainie 
 parochial school, in the w-estern portion of the parish, 
 affords instruction in the usual branches ; the master 
 has a salary of £36, with £6 fees, and also participates 
 in the benefit of the Dick bequest. A charitable fund, 
 raised by subscription in 1806, for the benefit of the fa- 
 milies of twenty-one seamen who lost their lives in a 
 storm, afforded relief to the objects for whom the collec- 
 tion was made, by an annual distribution of the proceeds ; 
 but this fund is now exhausted. There is a burying, 
 ground at the west end of the parish, covered with 
 grave-stones ; it contains a stone cross eight feet high, 
 and at one time formed the site of the ancient church 
 of Ogston : here now stands the splendid mausoleum of 
 the Gordon family. About half a mile to the east is the 
 ruin of the church built in 1666. A mile farther east- 
 ward is the burying-ground of Kinnedar, where stood 
 the church of that name, the foundations of which are 
 now scarcely discernible : adjoining are the remains of 
 the castle of Kinnedar, a very strong and extensive 
 fortification, called also the episcopal palace, where 
 Archibald, the tenth bishop of Moray, and other bishops, 
 resided before the cathedral was fixed at Spynie. On 
 the summit of the Causea hills is a range of artificial 
 conical mounds of earth styled the "warlike hills", at 
 nearly equal distances, and from twenty to thirty feet 
 in height, constructed for signal stations, and used at 
 different periods by the possessors of the lands for com- 
 municating important information, and various other 
 purposes. *
 
 DREG 
 
 D RON 
 
 O DREGHORN, a parish, in the district of Cunning- 
 HAME, county of Ayr, 2 miles (E. by S.) from Irvine; 
 containing 1 22'2 inhabitants. This place anciently formed 
 part of the property of the De Morvilles, constables of 
 Scotland, whose ancestor appears to have obtained large 
 possessions here in the reign of Alexander I., and from 
 whose family it passed, with the heiress of William de 
 Morville, to Ronald, Lord of Galloway. Ronald's grand- 
 daughter, Helen, early in the thirteenth century married 
 Roger de Quincy, Earl of Winchester, who, in her right, 
 became Constable of Scotland, and proprietor of the De 
 Morville estates ; and the lands were subsequently con- 
 veyed, by marriage with his daughters, co-heiresses, to 
 William de Ferrars and Allan de la Zouch, ancestors of 
 the present Marquess Townshend, and the Lords Ashby- 
 de-la-Zouch in the county of Leicester. The estates, 
 however, were soon after forfeited to the crown, from 
 the adherence of those two noblemen to the interests of 
 John Baliol ; and the barony of Dreghorn was granted 
 by Robert Bruce to Sir Alan Stewart, who was killed 
 in the battle of Hallidown Hill, and whose descendants, 
 afterwards Earls of Darnley and Lennox, retained pos- 
 session of it till the year 1,520. It then became the 
 property of Hugh, first Earl of Eglinton, and his de- 
 scendant is the present proprietor. 
 
 The I'AUisH is about eight miles in length, and varies 
 from three-quarters of a mile to two miles in breadth. 
 It is bounded on the west and north by the Annock 
 water, on the east by the Gawreer burn, and on the 
 south by the Irvine river. Dreghorn comprises 44/7 
 acres, of which 1500 are arable, 2750 meadow and 
 pasture, and about 120 woodland and plantations. The 
 surface is level towards the sea, and rises in gentle un- 
 dulations inland ; the scenery throughout is pleasingly 
 picturesque, and the banks of the Annock abound with 
 natural beauty, heightened by several handsome villas 
 and seats embosomed in thriving plantations. The soil 
 is for the greater part a deep rich loam, and in other 
 places intermixed with gravel ; the chief crops are bar- 
 ley and wheat, with potatoes and turnips. The system 
 of agriculture is in an advanced state, and the rotation 
 plan of husbandry generally adopted ; much of the land 
 has been improved by draining. Great attention is 
 bestowed on the management of dairy-farms ; butter 
 and Dunlop cheese are sent to the adjacent markets, 
 and all due regard is paid to the improvement of the 
 breed of live stock. The cows on the dairy-farms are 
 the Ayrshire, and the sheep are mostly of the black- 
 faced and Cheviot kinds, with a few of the South Down 
 breed recently introduced. Coal abounds in the neigh- 
 bourhood, and is extensively worked, and freestone of 
 excellent quality is found ; limestone, also, is quarried 
 in the north-east part of the parish. The annual value 
 of real property in Dreghorn is £ 1 0, 130. Annock Lodge 
 is a handsome residence situated on the south bank of 
 the Annock, in a tastefully ornamented demesne, en- 
 riched with thriving plantations ; and Pierceton, Rig- 
 house, Cunningham Head, and Warrickhill are also 
 good houses. The village is on the road from Kilmar- 
 nock to Irvine, and is irregularly built upon a gentle 
 acclivity commanding a view of the sea ; most of the 
 houses are of ancient appearance, and the general 
 aspect, from the number of old trees with which the 
 buildings are interspersed, is cheerful and extremely 
 pleasing. Great facility of intercourse is afforded by 
 303 
 
 the lines of the Glasgow and Ayrshire railway company. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Irvine, 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of Lady 
 Montgomerie. The minister's stipend is about £250, with 
 a manse, and a glebe of four acres and a half, valued 
 at £3 an acre per annum. The church, situated in the 
 village, is a substantial edifice, erected within the last 
 seventy or eighty years, and adapted for a congregation 
 of 430 persons. Dreghorn parochial school affords edu- 
 cation to about 100 scholars ; the master has a salary 
 of £29. 18., with £50 fees, and a house and garden. 
 There is also a school which has a small endowment in 
 addition to the fees. 
 
 DRON, a parish, in the county of Perth, I5 mile w 
 (S. S. E.) from Bridge of Earn; containing 441 inhabit- 
 ants. The name of this place is in the Gaelic tongue 
 said to signify a ridge or projection, which is descriptive 
 of the locality where the church and manse are placed. 
 The parish lies a mile south of the river Earn, and, in- 
 cluding a tongue of land that belongs to Dunbarny pa- 
 rish and intersects the parish of Dron, measures between 
 three and four miles in length from east to west. It 
 extends about three miles in breadth, comprising 4100 
 acres, of which 2600 are under cultivation, 400 in wood, 
 and the remainder hill pasture. Dron consists princi- 
 pally of a tract sloping towards the north from the 
 Ochil hills, which form the southern boundary of the 
 beautiful vale of Strathearn ; and exhibits a series of 
 well- cultivated and inclosed fields, seen to great advan- 
 tage by travellers passing along the high road. Some 
 of the hills on the southern extremity of the parisK are 
 ornamented with extensive plantations of fir, bircli, ash, 
 and other trees, disposed in belts and clumps ; and the 
 remaining high grounds in this direction present in gene- 
 ral a smooth and verdant surface. Several rivulets run 
 down from the hilly parts ; and the Farg, which abounds 
 with fine trout, after flowing, from its source in the Ochil 
 range five or six miles distant, through a deep, narrow, 
 and well-wooded glen of great beauty, forms a boun- 
 dary line between this parish and that of Abernethy, 
 and falls into the Earn at Culfargie. 
 
 The SOIL varies in quality according to its proximity 
 ■ to the hills. The lands verging towards the north are 
 clayey and loamy, with some till, and produce rich crops 
 of wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, turnips, clover, peas, 
 and beans. On the higher grounds, however, the eai'th 
 is more shallow and mixed with rock : the best crops 
 in this division, consisting of barley, oats, turnips, and 
 potatoes, are produced chiefly in the flats and hollows, 
 the other parts being too much exposed to high winds 
 for successful farming ; large tracts are wholly unfit for 
 cultivation, and afford only indifferent pasture for sheep 
 and cattle. The husbandry in general is of a superior 
 character, and still in progress of improvement, espe- 
 cially in regard to tile-draining, which is extensively 
 practised, and is particularly required by the soil, it 
 being for the most part retentive and clayey. The sub- 
 stratum is freestone, which is occasionally quarried ; and 
 indicationsof the existence of coal are so prominent that 
 many attempts to find it have been made since the year 
 1758, though without success. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £4300. The chief resi- 
 dence is Balmanno Castle, once the seat of the Murrays, 
 baronets of Balmanno, and now the property of the 
 nephew of the last baronet, who was killed at the age of
 
 DRUM 
 
 DRUM 
 
 twenty-two at Long Island, in the American war : this 
 edifice, part of which is very ancient, is still in excellent 
 preservation, and is considered a fine specimen of an 
 old castle and mansion-house. There is also a neat 
 modern mansion called Glenearn. The high road from 
 Edinburgh to Perth runs through the parish. Farming 
 produce is sent for sale to Perth, Newburgh, and Kin- 
 ross, and large shipments of potatoes are made to 
 London. 
 
 Drou is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Perth, 
 synod of Perth and Stirling, and in the patronage of the 
 Crown; the minister's stipend is about £180, with a 
 manse, offices, glebe, and garden, valued at £45 or £50 
 per annum. The church was built about the year 1816, 
 and is a plain neat edifice, beautifully situated on an 
 eminence at the base of the Ochils, commanding exten- 
 sive views of the picturesque scenery of part of Strath- 
 earn, the Carse of Gowrie, and the Ochil range. The 
 parochial school affords instruction in the ordinary 
 branches, and the roaster receives a salary of £34 : the 
 school-house and premises were rebuilt in the year 1S39, 
 at a cost of about £560. In the churchyard is the 
 grave-stone of John Welwood, a celebrated minister in 
 the time of Charles II., who died at Perth in 1679, and 
 was buried here during the night. An old chapel (with 
 a burying ground), at the entrance of Glenfarg, has been 
 pulled down to give place to the new Edinburgh road; 
 and the ruin of another chapel j'et remains in the west 
 end of the parish. On the southern declivity of a hill 
 opposite the church, is a large mass of whinstone, about 
 ten feet long and seven broad, and deviating from the 
 perpendicular, called the rocking-stone of Dron. 
 Tvti^t*' DRONLEY, a village, in the parish of Auchter- 
 
 HousE, county of Forfar, 2 miles (N. by E.) from Liff ; 
 containing 103 inhabitants. This is a neat and pleasing 
 village, situated a little east of the road between Dundee 
 and Meigle. A fine rivulet issuing from the lake of 
 Lundie, and running along the southern border of the 
 parish, is here joined by another small stream, and both 
 uniting form the Dighty water, which empties itself into 
 the Tay four miles east of Dundee. 
 ^ DRUMBLADE, a parish, in the district of Strath- 
 bogie, county of Aberdeen ; adjacent to the town of 
 Huntly, and containing 945 inhabitants. The ancient 
 name of this parish, Drumhlail, which is Gaelic, signifies 
 " covered hills or braes". King Robert Bruce is said to 
 have lain encamped here during a time of severe sick- 
 ness, and to have kept in check Cumyn, Earl of Buchan, 
 one of the most powerful of the Scottish barons, who 
 had pursued him hither, just before the battle of Barra, 
 which was fought between them in the year 1307. The 
 spot where the king intrenched himself was a height 
 upon Sliach, still called " Robin's height". Some years 
 ago, vestiges were visible of an encampment supposed 
 to have been a part of the works of Bruce's station ; and 
 some tumuli, as well as immense masses of stone yet 
 remaining in the vicinity, are said to have been con- 
 nected with the same fortifications. A hill called " the 
 battle hill" is thought to have been the scene of a 
 conflict, at a later period, between the Cummings and 
 the Gordons. The parish is about six miles in its 
 greatest length, and between four and five miles in its 
 greatest breadth, and contains above 76OO acres. Its 
 surface is diversified by small hills, mostly cultivated, 
 and by gently sloping valleys, with an e.\tensive plain 
 304 
 
 on the north, called the Knightland Moss, so level that, 
 from the want of a proper fall for the water, the drain- 
 ing of it was long incomplete, though the whole of the 
 tract is now under the plough or in pasture. There are 
 several streams, but the only one of consequence is the 
 Bogie, which divides the parish on the west from the 
 town of Huntly. 
 
 The soil presents numerous varieties, of which the 
 principal is a deep rich loam, producing, if well culti- 
 vated, and favoured by the season, very fine crops. A 
 large part of the land, however, is stiff and heavy, with 
 a cold crusty subsoil, which greatly impedes agricultural 
 operations ; and in some places the soil is light and 
 sharp, resting upon loose sand or gravel. About 6000 
 acres are arable, 1 100 unimproved, and 500 acres planted 
 with larch and Scotch fir, and a little spruce and beech j 
 all kinds of crops are raised, and of the grain produced 
 oats most prevail, wheat being but little cultivated in 
 the parish. The cattle are numerous, and form a prin- 
 cipal object of attention here ; they are chiefly the Aber- 
 deenshire mixed with the Highland breed, but crosses 
 with the short-horned have of late become common, and 
 seem likely soon to supplant the native breed. The 
 best system of husbandry is practised, and the improve- 
 ments effected by draining, by reclaiming waste ground, 
 and planting, have been so considerable within the last 
 thirty or forty years, that the aspect of the parish has 
 been almost entirely changed : the farm-houses and 
 offices and the inclosures, however, are still in a somewhat 
 inferior condition. The substrata afford granite, whin- 
 stone, and limestone, the first of which is excellent. In 
 the parish is the mansion-house of Lessendrum, partly 
 an old and partly a modern building. Most of the 
 inhabitants are engaged in agricultural pursuits, but a 
 few are employed in a distillery, a bleach-field, and two 
 potato-flour manufactories, in a meal-mill, a lint-mill, 
 and two wool-mills : at the distillery 40,000 gallons of 
 superior malt spirits are annually produced, yielding to 
 government about £10,000 a year duty. The great 
 Aberdeen and Inverness post-road, and the Huntly and 
 Banff turnpike-road, run through the parish ; the one 
 two miles south, and the other a mile and a half north- 
 west, of the church. The annual value of real property 
 in Drumblade is £55'20. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Turriff and synod 
 of Aberdeen ; patron, the Earl of Kintore. The stipend is 
 £159, of wliich £51 are paid by the exchequer; and 
 there is a good manse, with a glebe of ten arable acres, 
 valued at £16 per annum. Drumblade church, a plain 
 edifice, was built in 1773, and improved in 1829, and 
 contains 500 sittings. The members of the Free Church 
 have a place of worship. The parochial schoolmaster 
 receives £30 a year, and about £24 fees, with an allow- 
 ance for a house, and a portion of the Dick bequest : 
 Latin, mathematics, mensuration, and all the ordinary 
 branches are taught. There is also a good parochial 
 library. The Rev. George Abel, minister of the parish, 
 left £100 in 1793, and his widow a similar sum several 
 years afterwards, for the poor. Dr. William Bisset, late 
 Bishop of Raphoe in Ireland, was proprietor of Lessen- 
 drum, and was interred here in 1834. 
 
 DRUMELDRIE-MUIR, a village, in the parish of 
 Newburn, district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 
 1:1 mile (E.) from Largo ; containing 82 inhabitants. 
 The name of the parish was anciently Drumeldrie,
 
 DRUM 
 
 DRUM 
 
 ■^ 
 
 0> 
 
 changed to Newburn from the circumstance, it is said, 
 of a small rivulet iu the parish having altered its course. 
 The village is situated about half a mile distant from the 
 shore of Largo bay, and on the high road from Largo 
 to Elie : a little to the north-east is the moor. 
 
 DRUMGLAY, a village, iu the parish of Glammis, 
 county of Forfar, 2 miles (W.) from Forfar ; contain- 
 ing 66 inhabitants. It is situated in the extreme north- 
 east point of the parish, a short distance from the Dean 
 river and the loch of Forfar, the former on the south, 
 and the latter eastward, of the village. 
 
 DRUMLANRIG, a village, in the parish of Duris- 
 DEER, county of Dumfries, 3| miles (N. N. W.) from 
 Thornhill. This place is distinguished for its magni- 
 ficent palace of Drumlanrig, the seat of the Duke of 
 Buccleuch, and formerly that of the Dukes of Queens- 
 berry. It is a large square pile, standing on a rising 
 ground, and looking down with its almost innumerable 
 windows on the plain beneath, the river Nith flowing at 
 a short distance from the building : the walls are covered 
 with a profusion of hearts and stars, and the arms of 
 Douglas, and crowned by twelve fine turrets. The 
 palace was built in the seventeenth century, by the first 
 Duke of Queensberry, from the designs of Inigo Jones, 
 and its erection occupied ten years : around it are old- 
 fashioned gardens, which are kept in good order ; and 
 in its vicinity, a line of yew-trees, overspread by creep- 
 ing plants, presents a peculiarly venerable appearance. 
 Formerly, there was preserved in one of the parks a 
 iierd of the original wild cattle of Scotland, animals of 
 a milk-white, except their noses, ears, and the orbits of 
 their eyes, these being of a dark brown colour. In the 
 churchyard of Durisdeer is a curious monument to 
 " James Lukup, master of the works of Drumlanrig," 
 bearing the date 1685. 
 
 DRUMLEMBLE, a village, in the parish of Camp- 
 BELLTOWN, district of Cantyre, county of Argyll ; 
 containing 462 inhabitants. It is iu the immediate 
 vicinity of a large colliery, in which its male population 
 is for the most part engaged. 
 
 DRUMLITHIE, a village, in the parish of Glen- 
 BERViE, county of Kincardine, 6 miles (W. S. W.) from 
 Stonehaven ; containing 397 inhabitants. It lies in the 
 southern part of the parish, a short distance west of the 
 high road from Stonehaven to Laurencekirk, and about 
 a mile east-north-east of the church. The Aberdeen 
 railway has a station here. The inhabitants are princi- 
 pally weavers and shoemakers. Here are an episcopal 
 chapel, a place of worship for members of the Free 
 Church, and a small school. 
 
 DRUMMELZIER, a parish, in the county of Pee- 
 bles i containing 2'28 inhabitants, of whom 63 are in 
 the village, 2 miles (E.) from Rachan-Mill. This parish, 
 in ancient documents Drumellnr and Driimcler, anciently 
 formed part of the parish of Tweedsmuir, from which it 
 was separated in 1643 ; and in 1~42 it was augmented 
 by the annexation of part of the parish of Dawick, the 
 remainder of which was added to Stobo. It appears to 
 have been from a very remote period the property of the 
 family of Tweedie, of whom Sir James Tweedie, to whose 
 memory there is an inscription, dated I6l7, over the 
 entrance of a cemetery attached to the church, was the 
 last member. The parish is about fourteen miles in 
 length, and from three to four in average breadth, and 
 is bounded on the north for about eight miles by the 
 Vol. I.— 305 
 
 river Tweed, which, also, in the upper portion divides it 
 into two parts. It comprises 17,3S6 acres, of which 
 1030 acres are arable, 189 meadow and low pasture, 520 
 woodland and plantations, and 16,647 acres hilly moor, 
 affording tolerable pasture for sheep and cattle. The 
 surface is generally mountainous, but between the hills 
 and the river are some fine tracts of level pasture; the 
 hills are clothed with grass and heath, and the scenery 
 is enlivened by some stately timber, and thriving plan- 
 tations of modern growth. 
 
 The soil is sharp, and the crops are oats and barley, 
 with a few acres of wheat, also peas, potatoes, and tur- 
 nips : the system of agriculture is in an improved state ; 
 the lands are well drained, and inclosed chiefly with 
 fences of stone. Considerable attention is paid to the 
 management of the dairy-farms, and to the rearing and 
 pasture of sheep and cattle ; about 200 milch-cows are 
 kept, and 7000 slieep, chiefly of the black-faced breed, 
 are fed in the pastures. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £2993. The woods are oak, ches- 
 nut, sycamore, and larch, and on the older lands are 
 many trees of luxuriant growth ; the plantations are 
 Scotch fir and larch, intermixed with various forest- 
 trees. In this parish the substrata are mostly whin- 
 stone (with veins of quartz), white and very compact 
 limestone, and slate ; but no quarries have yet been 
 opened. Dawick, a seat lately rebuilt, is a handsome 
 mansion in the antique style of architecture, situated in 
 a well-planted demesne, containing a fine collection of 
 pine-trees from the Himalaya mountains and California. 
 The village, which is irregularly built, is pleasant, and 
 chiefly inhabited by persons employed iu agriculture. 
 The river Tweed and its tributaries abound with trout, 
 and salmon are also found in the former from September 
 till March. 
 
 The parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of 
 Peebles, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and in the 
 patronage of the family of Trotter ; the minister's sti- 
 pend is £192, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 
 per annum. Drummelzier church, situated nearly in 
 the centre of the parish, and at an elevation of 800 feet 
 above the sea, is an ancient structure in good repair, 
 adapted for a congregation of 200 persons. The paro- 
 chial school affords instruction to about thirty children ; 
 the master has a salary of £32, with £10 fees, and a 
 house and garden. At Kingledoors, in the upper part 
 of the parish, was an ancient chapel dedicated to St. 
 Cuthbert, the early evangelist of Tweeddale. There are 
 remains of two castles : that called Tinnes or Thanes 
 Castle, of which there is no authentic record, was of 
 quadrilateral form, with circular towers at the angles, 
 and walls six feet in thickness ; the other, called Drum- 
 melzier Place, is supposed to have been the baronial 
 seat of the Tweedie family. On the summit of one of 
 the mountains, are vestiges of a road thought to have 
 been part of the Roman road communicating with the 
 line from Falkirk to Carlisle. Near the junction of the 
 Powsail rivulet with the Tweed, is a spot said to have 
 been the grave of Merlin. 
 
 DRUMMETERMONT, a village, in the parish of Y UU^h 
 DuNNiciiEN, county of Forfar ; containing 117 inha- 
 bitants. It is situated in the north-eastern part of the 
 parish, and nearly adjoins the village of Letham on the 
 north side. The village is long and straggling, and is 
 chiefly inhabited by farmers and small weavers. 
 
 2 R
 
 DRUM 
 
 DRUM 
 
 DRUMMOND, a village, ia the parish of Kiltearn, 
 county of Ross and Cromarty, 6 miles (N. N. E.) from 
 Dingwall ; containing 72 inhabitants. This place is 
 seated in a level field near the Skiack rivulet, on the 
 road from Dingwall to Novar Inn : the parochial church 
 stands a short distance from it. 
 
 DRUMOAK, a parish, chiefly in the district and 
 county of Aberdeen, and partly in the county of Kin- 
 cardine, 11 miles (W. S. W.) from Aberdeen ; contain- 
 ing 811 inhabitants. Its original name was Dalmaik, 
 by which it is still generally called by the inhabitants, 
 though the denomination of Drumoak has also been 
 used for more than 300 years. The latter appellation 
 is said to be derived from the Gaelic word drum, signi- 
 fying the ridge of a hill, and from Moloch, corrupted 
 into Moak, the name of a celebrated saint to whose 
 honour a monastery was erected in St. Servanus' isle, 
 on the water of Leven. Dalmaik is compounded of the 
 Gaelic dal, a haugh or valley, and St. Moloch, corrupted 
 into Maik ; and signifies the valley of St. Moloch, a 
 description applicable to the district containing the 
 ruins of the old church, near which is a well called St. 
 Maik's Well. The lands in the parish belong to four 
 proprietors. The estate of Drum comprehends one-half 
 of the whole, and is possessed by the Irvine family, the 
 first of whom, William de Irvin, was armour-bearer to 
 Robert Bruce, and was rewarded by him for his zeal 
 and fidelity with a grant of the forest of Drum, one of 
 the hunting-seats of the kings of Scotland, conveyed to 
 Irvin by charter under the great seal in 1323. Part of 
 the lands of Leys is also comprised in the parish : it is 
 situated in Kincardineshire, and has been held for more 
 than .500 years by the ancestors of the present pro- 
 prietor. Sir Thomas Burnet, Bart. The lands of Park 
 formed part of the chase attached to the royal forest of 
 Drum, and having been reserved by Robert when he 
 made the grant of the forest, were given by David Bruce 
 to Walter Moigne, since which they have passed through 
 different families. The lands of Culter formerly be- 
 longed to the family of Drum ; and almost the whole of 
 that portion of them which hes within this parish, has 
 lately been purchased by Mr. Irvine, and reunited to 
 the Drum estate. 
 
 The PARISH approaches in figure to a triangle, but 
 the outline is very irregular. It measures six miles in 
 length, and averages two in breadth, comprising "190 
 acres, of which 1*97 are in the county of Kincardine. 
 Of the Aberdeenshire portion 3467 acres are under cul- 
 tivation, 485 are waste or continual pasture (including 
 SO acres capable of improvement), and 1441 are occupied 
 by wood ; of the Kincardineshire portion 798 acres are 
 under cultivation, 793 waste or continual pasture (300 
 being capable of improvement), and 206 are in v^•ood. 
 The surface is agreeably varied by gentle undulations, 
 rising from the boundaries on all sides but the east to 
 the Drum hill in the centre, which is 500 feet above the 
 level of the sea. In the eastern part the Ord hill attains 
 an abrupt elevation of 430 feet, and its ridge stretches 
 to the boundary of the parish in that direction. The 
 most extensive and beautiful prospect in the neighbour- 
 hood is obtained from the southern peak of Drum hill, 
 comprehending a tract stretching almost from the Ger- 
 man Ocean on the east along the valley of the Dee, which 
 river forms the southern boundary of the parish, and 
 closed on the south by the Grampian range, and on the 
 306 
 
 west by lofty mountains often topped with snow. The 
 Dee has long been celebrated for its fine salmon : the 
 fisheries were once much more profitable than they are at 
 present in this locality, a diminution in the number of fish 
 having been caused by stake and bag nets being thickly 
 planted along the coast, and at the river's mouth. The 
 loch of Drum, a fine sheet of water, of oblong form, 
 covers nearly eighty-five acres, and is highly ornamental, 
 its margin being beautifully fringed with alders, and 
 three of its sides dressed with thriving plantations of 
 larch, birch, and Scotch fir. Excellent pike, numerous 
 eels, and a few perch are found in the loch, and common 
 trout are taken by angling in the burns of Gormac and 
 Culter, which separate this parish on the north from 
 those of Echt and Peterculter. These fish also are all 
 found in the pellucid stream of the Dee, with par, sea- 
 trout, white trout, and flounders. 
 
 The SOIL is mostly of inferior quality, and on account 
 of its general dryness, occasioned partly by a gravelly 
 and porous subsoil, the farmers have much to contend 
 with. The lands near the river are light and sandy, in- 
 cumbent on gravel, and when penetrated by the heat of 
 the sun in scorching summers, are dried up ; the parts, 
 however, which have been the lousiest under cultivation 
 and most manured, are rich and loamy, bearing good 
 crops. In the other portions of the parish the land is 
 either thin and moorish, resting on till or some retentive 
 subsoil, or consists of beds of peat, in which many frag- 
 ments of trees are found, and from which, though to a 
 great extent exhausted, fuel is still partly obtained for 
 the supply of the parish. All kinds of grain are raised, 
 with turnips, potatoes, and hay. The number of sheep 
 has been greatly reduced in consequence of the conver- 
 sion of large tracts of pasture into arable ground ; the 
 black-cattle are the Aberdeenshire polled breed, variously 
 crossed, and lately much improved, and many swine are 
 reared both for domestic use and for the pork-curers at 
 Aberdeen. The prevailing system of husbandry is the 
 seven-shift course, and large quantities of bone-dust are 
 applied as manure. A considerable portion of marshy 
 land has been reclaimed, and embankments have been 
 raised at a great cost on the estate of Park. The an- 
 nual value of real property in Drumoak is £2532. The 
 rocks in the parish are of little interest, consisting chiefly 
 of gneiss and granite, boulders of which are abundant, 
 and are used for the erection of fences and farm-stead- 
 ings. The wood principally comprises larch and Scotch 
 fir, intermixed with birch and other trees ; and very 
 fine specimens of old oak, ash, plane, and elm adorn the 
 grounds belonging to the mansion of Drum. This man- 
 sion is a spacious edifice in the Elizabethan style, built 
 in 1619, with a venerable tower adjoining, supposed to 
 have been erected in the twelfth century. The mansion 
 of Park is also a handsome structure, in the Grecian 
 style of architecture, built in 1822, and surrounded with 
 extensive and well laid-out pleasure-grounds. The 
 turnpike-road from Aberdeen to Braeraar passes through 
 the whole length of the parish. Fairs for the sale of 
 cattle are held at Park Inn on the first Monday in Janu- 
 ary, the first Monday in April, the Monday after the 
 second Tuesday in May, the second Tuesday in July 
 (O. S.), and the Tuesday before the 22nd of November. 
 They are of recent institution, and are badly attended. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery and 
 synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of Alexander
 
 D R Y B 
 
 D II Y F 
 
 V }■'• 
 
 rUUjjJi 
 
 
 ■dfej. 
 
 Irvine, Esq. : the minister's stipend is £158, of ■which 
 upwards of a third is received from the exchequer ; 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £11 per annum. 
 Drumoali old church, removed in 1835, is supposed to 
 have stood about 300 years, and was inconveniently 
 situated on a strip of land stretching into the parish of 
 Petereulter. The present structure, placed on nearly a 
 central spot, is a neat and comfortable place of worship, 
 raised at an expense of about £1000, and contains 630 
 sittings. A parochial subscription library was instituted 
 in 1827, and comprises upwards of 300 volumes. The 
 parochial school atfords instruction in Latin and mathe- 
 matics, in addition to the ordinary branches ; the master 
 has a salary of £30, with about £11 fees, and receives 
 £10 in meal, for teaching twelve poor children, left by 
 the family of Drum. James Gregory, the inventor of 
 the reflecting-telescope, was a native of the parish. On 
 Her Majesty's visit to Scotland in September 1848, the 
 royal party passed through this parish on their way 
 from Aberdeen to Balmoral. 
 
 DRUMOCHY, a village, in the parish of Largo, 
 district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 2 miles (E. 
 N. E.) from Leven ; containing 156 inhabitants. This 
 place is separated from Nether Largo by the mouth of 
 the Keel rivulet, which forms the harbour, opening into 
 Largo bay. The population ai'e chiefly fishermen. The 
 trade in salt, for which there were formerly many works 
 here, has altogether disappeared. 
 
 DRUMORE, a village, in the parish of Kirkmaiden, 
 county of Wigtown,! of a mile (S. E.) from Kirkmaiden; 
 containing 279 inhabitants. This village is seated on 
 the eastern shore of the peninsula called the Rhinns of 
 Galloway, and has a good harbour and quay, with safe 
 anchorage for shipping. Four vessels, of between six- 
 teen and thirty-seven tons' burthen, belong to the port, 
 whence farm produce is shipped to various places ; and 
 in Luce bay some fishing is carried on. There is a 
 daily post from Stranraer, distant south-south-east about 
 twenty miles. Above the village are the ruins of Dru- 
 inore Castle, which from its position and magnitude 
 must have been of great strength and importance. 
 
 DRUMS, a hamlet, in the parish of Errol, county 
 of Perth ; containing 7^ inhabitants. 
 
 DRUMSTURDY-MUIR, a village, in the parish of 
 MoNiFiETH, county of Forfar, 65 miles (N. E.) from 
 Dundee; containing I76 inhabitants. It is situated on 
 both sides of the old road from Dundee to Arbroath, and 
 is long and straggling. In its immediate vicinity is the 
 Hill of Laws, on which are the remains of a fortification, 
 the stones bearing the marks of vitrification or fusion. 
 A considerable quantity of gold coins was found a few 
 years since near this spot. 
 
 DRUMVAICH, a hamlet, in the parish of Kilma- 
 DOCK with DouNE, county of Perth ; containing 49 
 inhabitants. 
 
 DRYBURGH, a village, in the parish of Mertoun, 
 t ounty of Berwick, 1^ mile (w.) from Mertoun. It is 
 beautifully situated on the river Tweed, which forms the 
 southern boundary of the parish ; and was formerly a 
 market-town of some importance, but is now chiefly re- 
 markable for the much-admired remains of its ancient 
 abbey. So early as the year 52'2, St. Modan, one of 
 the first Christian missionaries in Britain, was abbot of 
 Dryburgh ; but from the circumstance of this original 
 institution being unnoticed by historians subsequently 
 307 
 
 to this period, it is supposed that the abbot and monks 
 were shortly afterwards transferred to Melrose, and 
 some centuries elapsed before the formation of a second 
 establishment here. Hugh de Morville, constable of 
 Scotland, about the middle of the twelfth century, with 
 the concurrence of his wife Beatrix de Bello Campo, 
 founded a new abbey, to which David I. granted a 
 charter of confirmation; and the establishment was after- 
 wards enriched by numerous benefactions from illus- 
 trious personages. In 1544, the whole of the town was 
 burnt down, except the church, by the English army 
 under Sir George Bowes ; and in the year following, the 
 monastery was plundered and burnt by the Earl of 
 Hertford. About the year 1556, David Erskine, a 
 natural son of Lord Erskine, and one of the sub-pre- 
 ceptors to James VI., became abbot. That monarch, 
 however, soon after dissolved the abbey, and bestowed 
 it as a temporal lordship, under the title of Cardross, 
 on John, Earl of Mar, lord high treasurer of Scotland, 
 with the privilege annexed of assigning that title of 
 peerage, which the earl conveyed to Henry, his third son, 
 ancestor of the present Earl of Buchan, by a deed dated 
 13th of March, I617, and confirmed by the king and 
 parliament. In 1786, the abbey was purchased by the 
 Earl of Buchan from the heirs of Colonel Tod, who had 
 bought it from the family of Haliburton of Newmains. 
 Though not extensive, the remains are of very consider- 
 able interest ; they are romantically overgrown with 
 ivy, and consist chiefly of the chapter-house, north 
 transept, and St. Modan's chapel : some parts of the 
 ruins are of very early date, there being vestiges of the 
 Saxon and Norman styles as well as of the early Eng- 
 lish. The environs are famed for their delightful scenery, 
 and are ornamented with various pleasing objects, among 
 which is a temple erected to the Muses, and surmounted 
 by a bust of Thomson, the author of The Seasons. A 
 colossal statue of Sir William Wallace crowns the brow 
 of an adjoining hill ; and near the ruins of the abbey is a 
 remarkably light and elegant bridge for foot passengers 
 and led horses, consisting of a platform of wood, elevated 
 eighteen feet above the surface of the water, and fixed 
 to pillars on each side of the river by chains. Sir Walter 
 Scott was buried at Dryburgh. 
 
 DRYFESDALE, a parish, in the county of Dum- 
 fries, 14 miles (N. N. W.) from Annan ; containing, 
 with the town of Lockerbie, on the Glasgow and Carlisle 
 road, 2093 inhabitants. This parish, which derives its 
 name from the Dryfe, a small rivulet running through 
 the north-west part of it, contains several memorials of 
 its ancient inhabitants, and of their domestic feuds or 
 military operations. There are vestiges of eight camps, 
 some square or Roman, others circular or British, the 
 most remarkable of which are two, the one British and 
 the other Roman, facing each other, and separated by a 
 narrow morass. They are on two hills east of the 
 village of Bengali, a term perhaps implying " the hill of 
 the Gauls ", but which is often pronounced by the 
 people of the district as Berngaw. Old pieces of armour 
 and warlike weapons have frequently been found in 
 them ; and not many years ago the skeleton of a man 
 was discovered in a cairn in the morass, with sandals 
 which were sent as a great curiosity to the museum 
 at Oxford. There are also the remains of what is sup- 
 posed to have been a Roman station, or outwork, situate 
 upon an eminence in the centre of the extensive holm 
 
 1R1 
 
 n>
 
 D R Y F 
 
 DRY M 
 
 of Dryfe and Annan, and called Gallaherry. or "the 
 station of the Gauls". The most perfect relic of this 
 kind, however, is the British fort at Dryfesdale-gate, 
 occupying two acres of ground, and the counterpart of 
 which is a large Roman work, about half a mile due 
 east : the two works are separated only by a moor, on 
 which a bloody battle was fought between the army of 
 Julius Agricola and the forces of Corbredus Galdus, the 
 Scottish king. There are plain traces of the great 
 Roman road that extended from the borders of Eng- 
 land to the vast encampments on the neighbouring hill 
 of Buruswark, and thence crossed the parish at Locker- 
 bie to Dryfesdale-gate, and to Gallaherry, where it divided, 
 one branch leading through Annandale, by Moffat, to 
 Tweeddale and Clydesdale, and the other crossing the 
 Annan, and passing through Nithsdale to the west 
 country. On the holm of Dryfe, half a mile below the 
 former churchyard, is an old thorn-tree pointing out 
 the place where Lord Maxwell was killed in the cele- 
 brated fight on Dryfe-sands, between the Ma.xwells of 
 Nithsdale and the Johnstones of Annandale : this en- 
 gagement occurred on the 7th December, 1593, and the 
 Maxwells were defeated with great slaughter. The 
 highland part of the parish, which is divided from the 
 lowland by a range of green hills, was once a parish of 
 itself, called Little Hutton, and the church and burying- 
 ground were at Hall-dykes : the time of annexation to 
 Dryfesdale is uncertain. Besides this church there 
 were tsvo other places of worship within the limits of 
 the present parish, viz., the chapel of Beckton, supposed 
 to have belonged to the Knights Templars, and the 
 chapel at Quaas, about a quarter of a mile west from 
 Lockerbie. 
 
 The PARISH is seven miles in its greatest length, 
 from north to south, and varies in breadth from one 
 mile to three miles and a half, comprising about 11,000 
 acres. It is situated in the middle of the beautiful 
 valley called the How of Annandale, and is bounded on 
 the south and west by the river Annan, which separates 
 it from the parish of Lochmabcn. In the southern and 
 western parts, the surface is tolerably level, but towards 
 the north there are lofty hills, most of which, once 
 clothed ■with pasture, are now productive of grain, 
 potatoes, and other crops. The highest and most beau- 
 tiful hill, and one from which the prospects are un- 
 usually interesting and extensive, is that called some- 
 times Quhyte-Woolen, but usually White-Ween, from 
 its having formerly been a place for the pasturage of 
 very white sheep. It rises about 700 feet above the 
 level of the sea, and is covered with waving corn. 
 Beacon-fires are supposed to have been lighted on it, 
 to warn the inhabitants of the approach of English 
 borderers. The only stream in the parish is the Dryfe, 
 but the Annan, the Corrie, and the ^Iilk all touch it on 
 their passage to the Solway, and are well stocked with 
 various kinds of fish. In dry weather the Dryfe is a 
 small rivulet, but in a rainy season it pursues its course 
 with great impetuosity, overflosving its banks. The 
 Caledonian line of railway passes through part of the 
 town of Lockerbie, and crosses the Dryfe about four or 
 five hundred yards above the bridge on the road from 
 Glasgow to Carlisle. The viaduct by which the line 
 crosses the vale of the stream, forms a picturesque 
 bridge of white freestone, consisting of five arches, of 
 thirty feet span each. The whole of the parish is culti- 
 308 
 
 vated, with the exception of 600 acres, 250 of which are 
 wood, and the rest moss and moor ; and all kinds of 
 grain and green crops are grown, the annual value of 
 which is very considerable. The chief rock is whin- 
 stone or greywacke, which is very abundant ; some soft 
 freestone is also found, and limestone of a conglomerate 
 character is wrought in a regular quarry, for sale, at 
 Daltonhook. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is returned at £7670. Ecclesiastically, Dryfesdale 
 is within the bounds of the presbytery of Lochmaben 
 and synod of Dumfries ; patron, the Crown. The 
 minister's stipend is about £190, and there is a good 
 manse, delightfully situated, with a glebe valued at £25 
 per annum. The church, built in 1796, altered in 1811, 
 and enlarged in 1837, stands on a small eminence on 
 the west side of the main street of Lockerbie, a little 
 north from the centre of the town ; it is handsomely 
 fitted up, and seats upwards of 900 people. There is 
 also an Antiburgher meeting-house at Lockerbie. The 
 parochial school affords instruction in Latin, Greek, 
 French, and practical geometry, with the usual branches ; 
 the master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, 
 and £33 fees. There is a subscription librarj'. 
 
 DRYMEN, a parish, in the county of Stirling/^ 
 including part of the late quoad sacra district of Buek- 
 lyvie, and containing 1515 inhabitants, of whom 344 
 are in the village of Drymen, 55 miles (W. by N.) from 
 Edinburgh. The name of this place was originally 
 written Drumen, which is derived from the Celtic 
 word Druim, signifying a knoll or rise in the ground, 
 and is strikingly descriptive of the locality, the surface 
 being marked in many places by such eminences. The 
 parish is situated in the western part of the county, and 
 is very irregular in its outline, but approaching to a 
 triangular form, and measuring in extreme length fifteen 
 miles, and ten in breadth. It comprises 32,200 acres, 
 of which about 7000 are cultivated, 556 in wood, a con- 
 siderable portion moss, and the remainder moorland, 
 traversed by large numbers of native sheep and black- 
 cattle. The moorland consists principally of two tracts, 
 one of which, stretching from the east to the north-west, 
 divides the parish into two parts, and the other, situated 
 in the southern portion of the parish, is part of Stockie- 
 muir. The former of these tracts, near its western 
 extremity, has a lofty ridge separating the parish from 
 that of Buchanan, and distinguished by the elevated 
 points of Benvraick, 1600 feet, and Guallan, about 1300 
 feet, above the level of the sea : a little to the north of 
 the ridge the river Duchray, a tributary of the Forth, 
 forms the boundary of Drymen for several miles. The 
 lands north of this extensive mountainous moor are 
 contained within the general basin of the Forth, and 
 the southern lands within that of the Clyde. Between 
 the two moors is the picturesque vale of the Endrick, 
 which comprehends most of the arable land in the 
 parish, and is remarkable for its beautiful scenery, 
 heightened by the eccentric windings of the stream : 
 after running for a short distance through the parish, 
 the river forms about two miles of its boundary on the 
 south, and then loses itself in Loch Lomond. On the 
 north-eastern limit of the parish flows the river Forth, 
 winding slowly along, and exhibiting, in the colour of 
 its water, the effect of the mossy land through which it 
 passes, and which is a continuous tract called Flanders 
 Moss. This moss, commencing here, and extending to
 
 D R Y M 
 
 D U DD 
 
 Stirling, a distance of sixteen miles, is supposed to 
 have been the site of an extensive forest, forming part of 
 the horrida sijlva Caledoniip cut down by the Romans to 
 facilitate the conquest of the natives, who had their 
 strong places in it : the remains of gigantic trees still 
 bear the mark of the axe by which they were felled. 
 
 The prevailing soil is poor and shallow, with a cold 
 impervious subsoil ; but in some favoured spots, such as 
 the vale of the Endrick, there is a fine hazel mould, 
 inclining to loam. Towards the north the land is light 
 and sandy, and about the Forth a deep rich clay is 
 found under the moss. The husbandry practised here 
 is of a very mixed character, the old system being still 
 retained in some parts, to the neglect of the rotation of 
 crops and many great improvements, which have been 
 introduced into others. Of late years, a great change 
 for the better has taken place. The sheep pastured on 
 the moorlands are chiefly the black-faced, and the cattle 
 are the native black. For the improvement of the for- 
 mer, Linton and Lammermoor rams are sometimes pur- 
 chased ; and on the farms in the southern and western 
 parts some fine Leicesters may be seen, and many good 
 specimens of Ayrshire cattle. The live stock have been 
 much improved by the encouragement given by the 
 Strath-Endrick Club, instituted in 1816, which meets 
 here annually in August, and of which the Duke of 
 Montrose is patron. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £10,032. The natural wood is mostly 
 coppice ; it covers about 180 acres, and among it may 
 be noticed some lofty oaks and beeches. There is a 
 very fine ash-tree at the gate of the churchyard, which 
 is upwards of 200 years old, and measures sixteen feet 
 seven inches in girth at the height of one foot from the 
 ground. The vale of Endrick is well wooded, and the 
 plantations consist of 376 acres, belonging principally to 
 the duke. The mansions are those of Park, Finnich, and 
 Endrick-Bank. The village is situated a little north of 
 the Endrick, and its inhabitants are chiefly engaged in 
 agriculture. There is a manufactory at Gartness for 
 weaving woollen goods, where, also, the preparation of 
 the raw material and the dyeing are carried on. The 
 turnpike-road from Glasgow and Dumbarton to Stirling 
 passes through the parish, and to the first place the 
 produce of the lands is generally sent. 
 
 Drymen is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of 
 Dumbarton, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the pa- 
 tronage of the Crown; the minister's stipend is £272, 
 with a manse, and a glebe of seven acres, valued at £19 
 ))er annum. The church, built in 1771, and reseated in 
 1810, is a substantial edifice in good repair, and contains 
 about 400 sittings. The United Presbyterian Synod 
 have a place of worship. The parochial school is about 
 half a mile from the village ; the master receives a salary 
 of £31, with £2.') fees. A parish library, now contain- 
 ing 400 volumes, was instituted in 1S29, and a savings' 
 bank in the same year. The northern portion of the 
 parish, called the barony of Druminond, gives name to 
 the Drummond family, the founder of which was a Hun- 
 garian named Maurice, who came over with Margaret, 
 queen of Malcolm Canmore, and obtained lands here. 
 One of his descendants, Anabella, daughter of Sir John 
 Drummond, was united in marriage to Robert, Earl of 
 Carrick, who succeeded to the throne as Robert III. In 
 this barony, on the farm of Garfarran, are the remains 
 of a fort said to have been erected by the Romans. Na- 
 309 
 
 pier, the inventor of logarithms, resided at Gartness for 
 a considerable period, during which he prosecuted his 
 mathematical speculations. 
 
 DUBBIESIDE, or Inverleven, a village, in the late 
 quoad sacra parish of Methill, parish of Markinch, 
 county of Fife, 6 miles (S. E.) from Markinch; con- 
 taining 34S inhabitants. This village is pleasantly situ- 
 ated on the western bank of the river Leven, near its 
 influx into the Firth of Forth, and is neatly and regularly 
 built, consisting of one principal street intersected at 
 right angles by two smaller streets. The inhabitants 
 are generally employed at their own houses in weaving 
 sheetings, dowlas, and towellings, for the manufacturers 
 in the neighbouring districts. The surrounding scenery 
 is of pleasing character, and the village is connected with 
 the town of Leven, on the opposite shore, by a hand- 
 some suspension-bridge across the river. It contains a 
 meeting-house in connexion with the United Presbyterian 
 Synod. 
 
 DUDDINGSTON, a parish, in the county of Edin- 
 burgh ; including the villages of Joppa and Easter and 
 Wester Duddingston, and the late quoad sacra parish of 
 Portobello ; and containing 4366 inhabitants, of whom 
 156 are in Easter and 200 in Wester Duddingston, the 
 former Si miles (E. by S.) and the latter 1^ mile (E. S. E.) 
 from Edinburgh. This place derived its name, anciently 
 Dodinestun, from the family of Dodin, to whom it 
 belonged in the reign of David I., and of whom Hugo, 
 flius Dodini de Dodinestun, appears as witness to a grant 
 of lands to the canons of Holyrood. The manor was 
 subsequently the property of the Thompson family, of 
 whom Sir Thomas was created a baronet by Charles I. 
 in 1637. It afterwards formed part of the possessions 
 of the Duke of Lauderdale, who gave it with his daugh- 
 ter in marriage to the first Duke of Argyll, from whose 
 successor, the fifth duke, it was purchased in 1745 by 
 the Earl of Abercorn, whose descendant, the Marquess 
 of Abercorn, is the present proprietor. The site on 
 which the town of Portobello has been built, formerly 
 that portion of the forest of Duddingston called the 
 Figget Whins, afforded shelter to Sir William Wallace 
 and his troops on their march to attack the town of 
 Berwick ; and during the parliamentary war, the Scot- 
 tish leaders held a conference with Cromwell within this 
 parish, previously to the battle of Dunbar. In 1745, 
 the forces of the Pretender lay encamped on a plain near 
 the village of Wester Duddingston, now within the de- 
 mesnes of Duddingston House, for nearly a month before 
 and after their defeat of General Cope at Preston ; and 
 the house in which Prince Charles Edward slept on the 
 night previous to the battle is still remaining. 
 
 The parish is bounded on the west and north-west 
 by the parishes of St. Cuthbert, the Canongate, and South 
 Leith ; on the north-east by the Firth of Forth ; and on 
 the south by the parishes of Inveresk and Libberton. 
 It extends from the eastern base of Arthur's Seat to the 
 Firth, for nearly four miles in length, and increases 
 gradually towards the east from less than one mile to 
 about two miles in breadth, comprising 1812 acres, of 
 which, with the exception of a few acres of woodland 
 and pasture, the whole is arable. The surface is gene- 
 rally a level plain, sloping by degrees from the base of 
 Arthur's Seat to the Firth of Forth. The streams of the 
 Powburn and the Braid intersect the parish, flowing 
 through the pleasure-grounds of Duddingston House to 
 
 /J.ivj/)
 
 D UDD 
 
 D UD D 
 
 the hannlet of Duddingston-Mills, whence, pursuing their 
 course through a narrow and romantic dell, they fall 
 into the Firth to the west of Portobello. There is also 
 a stream called Brunstane, which separates the parish 
 from Libberton, and joins the Firth near Magdalene 
 Bridge. Duddingston loch, a fine sheet of water about 
 a mile in circumference, at the base of Arthur's Seat, 
 adds much to the beauty of the scenery, and, by means 
 of a small canal, supplies the rivulets that flow through 
 the park. The greater portion of the parish was for a 
 long time a barren moor, overgrown with furze, and 
 partly covered with sand. From this unprofitable state, 
 the lands of Prestonfield were first recovered and brought 
 into cultivation by their proprietor Mr. Dick, at that 
 time lord provost of Edinburgh, who, removing at his 
 own expense the accumulated refuse of the streets of the 
 city, employed it as manure for the improvement of his 
 land. Not long afterwards, the whole of the moorlands 
 in the parish were reclaimed, and brought into profitable 
 cultivation. 
 
 The SOIL is generally clay, alternated with sand, and 
 by judicious management has been rendered extremely 
 fertile ; the arable lands produce abundant crops of all 
 kinds of grain, turnips, and potatoes, and the grass in 
 the parks is luxuriantly rich. The system of agriculture 
 is in the highest state of advancement, and all the more 
 recent improvements in husbandry, and in the construc- 
 tion of implements, have been fully adopted. One or 
 two cows of the Ayrshire or the Teesnater breed are 
 kept on each farm for the use of the family ; but scarcely 
 any live stock is reared in the parish. The annual value 
 of real property in Duddingston is £21,896. The prin- 
 cipal substrata are coal, sandstone, and freestone. The 
 coal, which is very abundant, was formerly wrought, but 
 from the difficulty of clearing the mines from water, the 
 working was discontinued ; the mines, however, have 
 been lately leased to an English gentleman, who has 
 erected a powerful steam-engine, and there is every 
 prospect of their being wrought with success. There are 
 some extensive quarries of good freestone, from which 
 materials have been raised for the erection of the houses 
 of Portobello and Joppa ; and in the bed of one of the 
 burns is a stratum of black-coloured stone, of smooth 
 and unctuous appearance, which, from its susceptibility 
 of a high polish, is well adapted for mantel-pieces and 
 other ornamental purposes. Strata of limestone and 
 ironstone have been also found on some of the lands. 
 Duddingston House, the seat of the Marquess of Abercorn, 
 is a spacious and elegant mansion in the Grecian style, 
 erected in 176S, after a design by Sir William Chambers, 
 at an expense of £30,000. It is beautifully situated in 
 an extensive park abounding with stately timber, and is 
 surrounded with pleasure-grounds tastefully laid out in 
 lawns, shrubberies, and walks ; there are some temples 
 and other ornamental buildings, and the demesne is en- 
 livened by the windings of the rivulets, in which are 
 artificial islands of picturesque appearance. Prestonfield 
 House, the seat of Sir William Hanmer Dick Cunyngham, 
 Bart., is a handsome mansion situated near the loch, in 
 an ample demesne well laid out, and enriched with plan- 
 tations : it commands a fine view of the city of Edin- 
 burgh, to the southern confines of which the park nearly 
 extends. 
 
 The village of Wester Duddingston, where the parish 
 church is situated, was formerly a large and populous 
 310 
 
 place, the inhabitants of which were chiefly employed in 
 weaving. It is at present a small but agreeable village, 
 and consists mostly of detached villas, surrounded with 
 gardens and pleasure-grounds, occupied as summer resi- 
 dences by families of Edinburgh, and some neat cottages 
 inhabited by persons engaged in the works that are car- 
 ried on in the vicinity. Many of the females are em- 
 ployed in washing linen, for which the situation of the 
 village near the loch and its convenience for bleaching 
 render it peculiarly adapted. The vicinity abounds with 
 beautiful scenery, and commands extensive and interest- 
 ing prospects, embracing Craig-Millar Castle, the Moor- 
 foot, Lammermoor, and Pentland hills, the city of Edin- 
 burgh, and the Firth of Forth in the distance. Easter 
 Duddingston is situated on an eminence near the sea ; it 
 consists only of small cottages inhabited chiefly by 
 labourers, and is apparently falling into decay. The 
 hamlet of Duddingston-Mills, near the junction of the 
 Duddingston and Portobello roads, has a pleasingly rural 
 aspect. Extensive mills for flour and barley were erected 
 here a few years since, at an expense of £6000 ; they are 
 driven by water and by steam, according to circumstances, 
 and contain machinery of the most improved construc- 
 tion. In this hamlet are also situated the parochial 
 school, and the handsome buildings of Cauvin's Hospital. 
 Facility of communication is afforded by excellent roads, 
 by the main line of the North-British railway, and by 
 its Leith and Hawick branches. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale and pres- 
 bytery of Edinburgh. The minister's stipend, including 
 £10 for communion elements, is £300, with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £15 per annum; patron, the 
 Marquess of Abercorn. Duddingston church is a very 
 ancient structure in the Norman style, of which it con- 
 tains some interesting details, particularly a fine arch 
 separating the chancel from the nave. In 1631 an aisle 
 was added by the presbyterj' for the Hamilton family 
 and their tenants ; the church was enlarged and repaired 
 in 1840, and now contains 400 sittings. In the church- 
 yard are some handsome monuments, and an obehsk of 
 marble to the memory of Patrick Haldane, Esq., of 
 Gleneagles. There are places of worship for the United 
 Presbyterian Synod and Independents, an episcopal, and 
 a Roman Catholic chapel. The parochial school is at- 
 tended by about ninety children ; the master has a salary 
 of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees average 
 £40. There is a subscription library in Wester Dud- 
 dingston, containing about 400 volumes. Cauvin's Hos- 
 pital was founded by Mr. Louis Cauvin, a French teacher 
 in Edinburgh, and afterwards a farmer in this parish, 
 who in 1&'25 bequeathed the greater portion of his estates 
 to the lord provost, the principal of the university, the 
 rector of the high school, and the ministers of Dudding- 
 ston, Libberton, and Newton, in trust for the erection 
 and endowment of an hospital for the maintenance and 
 education of boys of not less than six, nor more than 
 eight, years of age. The scholars enjoying the benefit of 
 this institution are to be " the sons of respectable but 
 poor teachers", and "of poor but honest farmers"; 
 these failing, " the sons of respectable master-printers 
 or booksellers ", and " of respectable servants in the 
 agricultural line." The buildings were erected in the 
 villa style, in 1833, and contain the requisite accommo- 
 dations for twenty-five boys, who are maintained in the 
 
 I 
 
 ?
 
 DUFF 
 
 D U I R 
 
 hospital for six years, and instructed in the French, 
 Latin, and Greek languages, the mathematics, and the 
 ordinary branches of a commercial education, by mas- 
 ters appointed by the trustees, who were incorporated 
 by charter in 183~. The poor have a bequest of £100 
 left by Mr. Kay, of Edinburgh, architect. 
 
 DUFFTOWN, a village, in the parish of Mortlach, 
 county of Banff, | a mile (N.) from Mortlach ; con- 
 taining 770 inhabitants. This village, which is situated 
 a short distance from the junction of the rivers Fiddich 
 and Dulian, is of recent growth, having arisen since the 
 year IS 17, when the first of its present buildings was 
 commenced. A kind of market for grain is held here, 
 which is occasionally resorted to by the dealers in the 
 neighbourhood, but not on any particular day ; and fairs 
 for the sale of cattle are held five times during the year. 
 There is a daily post ; and a small prison has been built 
 in the village, for the temporary confinement of delin- 
 quents previously to their committal. 
 (? DUFFUS, a parish, in the county of Elgin ; in- 
 
 cluding the villages of Burgh-Head, Cummingston, New 
 DufFus, and Hopeman ; and containing 2529 inhabitants. 
 The name of Duffus is supposed to be derived from the 
 Gaelic word Dubuist, signifying the black lake, in refer- 
 ence to the lake of Spynie, now drained, or to some 
 other lake of which there is no trace left. The parish 
 was formerly remarkable for its castle, and as the scene 
 of military operations ; and there are several monuments 
 of antiquity still remaining, with which its ancient history 
 is closely interwoven. The most interesting relics are 
 those of fortifications at Burgh-Head, by some thought 
 to be Roman, and by others considered Danish, but most 
 probably originally constructed by the Romans, and 
 afterwards occupied by the Danes. The works were 
 divided into two parts, a higher and a lower, and pre- 
 sented four strong ramparts, built with oaken logs, 
 directed towards the small isthmus upon which the village 
 of Burgh-IIead now stands. A few years ago an obelisk 
 was standing nearly in the centre of the parish, thought 
 to have been erected by Malcolm II., in memory of a 
 victory over the Danes under Camus ; and not far from 
 it there was once a village called Kaim, supposed to be 
 the same as that mentioned by the historian Buchanan 
 as retaining the memorable name of Camus. The village 
 is now removed, but the place nevertheless retains the 
 appellaticm of Kaim. DufFus Castle, the picturesque 
 ruins of which are still visible, was the ancient seat of 
 the lords of that name, a branch of the noble family of 
 Sutherland, and who yet bear the title, recently restored 
 from attainder, though they now possess no property in 
 the district. 
 
 The PARISH is nearly six miles long and three broad, 
 containing about 10,000 acres, and lying along the Moray 
 Firth, by which it is bounded on the north. The coast 
 at the east end is rocky and very bold, and contains 
 some large and remarkable caverns ; in the western part 
 it consists of a level sandy beach. Along the shore, and 
 for half a mile inland, the surface is mostly meagre pas- 
 ture, supposed to have been once richly-cultivated land, 
 and to have been reduced to its present condition by the 
 blowing of sand from the western beach. The remaining 
 part of the parish, with the exception of two slight ac- 
 clivities, is a continuous plain of good ground in a high 
 state of tillage. With respect to climate, the parish is 
 highly favoured : the finest stone fruits ripen on the 
 311 
 
 open wall, and the more rare and delicate flowers and 
 shrubs attain a luxuriant growth, and prolong their 
 blossoming until December. In the western district the 
 soil is a black fertile earth, mixed in some places with 
 sand ; in the eastern quarter it is a deep rich clay, similar 
 in many respects to the fine soil of the well-known Carse 
 of Gowrie. The number of arable acres is 538 1, in 
 pasture 2962, and 310 are in wood: grain is produced 
 of excellent quality, and to a considerable extent, greatly 
 predominating in amount over the green crops, the 
 annual value of the former being four times that of the 
 latter. The cattle are of the Morayshire breed, which is 
 very similar to the Highland, but more bulky : they have 
 been recently crossed and varied with the Tceswater and 
 other esteemed breeds. The best method of cultivation 
 prevails, and many improvements in every department 
 of husbandry have taken place ; the farm-buildings are 
 generally thatched with straw, but are substantial, and 
 of suitable extent. The rocks consist of sandstone and 
 limestone, of each of which there are quarries. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £7902. 
 Among the residences is Duffus House, a commodious 
 and handsome mansion in the old English manorial style. 
 The village of Duffus is regularly built, and is a neat, .nttnyp ■ 
 clean, and interesting place. The chief communication e 
 
 of the people is with the town of Elgin, to which there is 
 a good turnpike-road; and a light post curricle brings the 
 mail. Burgh-Head has an excellent harbour, and regular 
 steam communication with Leith and London. There 
 are three fisheries carried on, namely, a salmon, a herring, 
 and a white fishery, which generally prove very profitable. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Elgin 
 and synod of Moray ; patron. Sir Archibald Dunbar, of 
 Northfield, Bart. The minister's stipend is about £250, 
 with an excellent manse, built in 1S30, and a glebe of 
 the annual value of £18. Duffus church, situated in the 
 eastern extremity of the parish, at a very inconvenient 
 distance from the bulk of the population, is an old and 
 ill-constructed edifice of unsightly appearance, with a 
 very picturesque and ancient porch ; it was repaired in 
 the year 1782, and is in good condition. There is a 
 chapel of ease at Burgh-Head, where are also two dis- 
 senters' meeting-houses ; and near Kaim is an episcopal 
 chapel. A parochial school is supported, in which the 
 classics and mathematics are taught, with the usual 
 branches of education; the master has a salary of £36, 
 a portion of Dick's bequest, about £12 fees, and a house 
 and garden. There are several other excellent schools 
 in the parish. 
 
 DUIRINISH, a parish, in the Isle of Skye, county /T) 
 of Inverness ; containing, with the former quoad sacra 
 parish of Waternish, 4983 inhabitants. This place, early 
 in the tenth century, became the property of the Mc 
 Leods, by marriage of the first Tormoid, or Norman of 
 the name, with the daughter and heiress of Mc Railt, 
 the original possessor of the lands. Frequent feuds 
 between the Mc Leods and the Mc Donalds of Uist, in 
 which the latter made attempts to render themselves 
 masters of the property, subsisted for a long period ; but 
 with the exception of certain portions of land voluntarily 
 alienated by the Mc Leods, the whole is still in the pos- 
 session of their descendants. On one occasion, while a 
 number of the Mc Leods were met for public worship in 
 the church, a party of the Mc Donalds, having landed at 
 Ardmore, in the district of Waternish, set fire to the
 
 D U I R 
 
 D UI R 
 
 building; and, except one individual, the whole assembly 
 perished in the flames. The inhabitants, however, whom 
 the burning of the church had collected in great num- 
 bers, amply retaliated this barbarous outrage, for, at- 
 tacking the invaders before they could regain their ships, 
 they stripped them of their booty, and left the entire 
 party dead upon the shore. 
 
 The p.\RisH is bounded on the north and north-east 
 by Lochs Snizort and Grieshernish, on the south and 
 south-east by Lochs Bracadale and Carroy, and on the 
 west by the channel of the Minch. It is about nineteen 
 miles in extreme length, and nearly sixteen miles in e.\- 
 treme breadth, comprising more than 60,000 acres, of 
 which '2400 are arable, 3S00 meadow and pasture, 130 
 woodland and plantations, and the remainder waste. 
 The surface is boldly varied, rising in some parts into 
 hills of considerable height, and in others into mountains. 
 The most conspicuous mountains are the Greater and 
 Less Helvels ; they have an elevation of 1*00 feet above 
 the sea, and are clothed with verdure to their summits, 
 which form a level plain. On account of their near re- 
 semblance in shape, they constitute an infallible land- 
 mark to mariners, by whom they are railed ]Mc Leod's 
 Tables. From the larger of the two a range of hills 
 extends northward, terminating at the entrance of the 
 bay of Dunvegan in Galtrigil Head, a bold and precipi- 
 tous headland 300 feet in height ; while from the smaller 
 of the Helvels a similar chain of hills stretches to the 
 south, terminating in the cliffs of Idrigil and W'aterstein, 
 the former of which have an elevation of 400, and the 
 latter of 600 feet. Near the point of Idrigil are three 
 basaltic pillars, rising perpendicularly from the sea, one 
 of them 200 feet in height, and the two others 100 feet 
 each ; they have obtained the appellation of Mc Leod's 
 Maidens, and there was formerly a fourth pillar, which 
 has disappeared. The coast, from its numerous inden- 
 tations, has a range of more than seventy miles in extent, 
 and is generally precipitous and rocky ; but within the 
 many bays and lochs the shore has a moderate declivity, 
 forming commodious beaches for landing. The lochs of 
 Dunvegan and Grieshernish are safe roadsteads for large 
 vessels during all winds ; and Lochs Bay, Poltiel, and 
 Carroy, though more exposed, aBFord good anchorage for 
 ships in ordinary weather. Pol-Roag, a branch of Loch 
 Carroy, is also a secure shelter, but from the narrowness 
 of its entrance is accessible only to vessels of small 
 burthen. 
 
 The SOIL is various, generally peat-moss, with some 
 tracts of clay and gravel ; the chief crops are oats and 
 potatoes. On the larger farms, the system of agriculture 
 has been improved within the last few years, the farm- 
 houses are mostly commodious, and the fences well kept 
 up ; but on the smaller tenements, which are held by 
 cottars without leases, husbandry is still in a very back- 
 ward state. There are scarcely any black-cattle kept, 
 the stock having been almost entirely superseded by 
 sheep, which are numerous. The few sheep remaining 
 of the native Highland breed are of diminutive size, but 
 afford mutton of very delicate flavour, and are remarkable 
 for the fine texture of their fleeces : within the last fifty 
 years the black-faced breed has been introduced, but it 
 is now giving place to the Cheviot. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £4999. The plantations 
 are of modern date, and are almost confined to the 
 grounds of the principal landowners ; they consist of 
 312 
 
 oak, ash, plane, beech, alder, birch, and larch, with 
 Scotch fir, which last, however, has not succeeded. In 
 this parish the substrata are chiefly of the trapstone for- 
 mation, intersected with veins of basalt ; limestone, 
 containing numerous fossil shells ; coal, which is not 
 workable ; and veins of sandstone. Besides the fine 
 castle of Dunvegan, the principal mansions in the pa- 
 rish are Orbost, Grieshernish, and Waternish, all of them 
 handsome residences pleasantly situated. Considerable 
 quantities of shell-fish are taken on the beach, and 
 several persons are employed in the fisheries off the 
 coast ; the fish generally are cod and ling, which, after 
 being cured, are sent to the markets. The manufacture 
 of kelp is also carried on, to a moderate extent. About 
 three boats, averaging ten tons' burthen each, belong to 
 the parish ; but no other vessels visit it for the purpose 
 of trade. A post-ofifice has been established at Dun- 
 vegan ; and facility of communication is maintained by 
 good roads, about thirty-five miles of turnpike-road 
 passing through the parish. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Skye and synod of Glenelg. 
 The minister's stipend is £15S, of which one-third part 
 is paid from the exchequer ; with an allowance of £5" 
 in lieu of a manse, and a glebe valued at £'2'2. 10. per 
 annum : patron, Mc Leod of Mc Leod. Duirinish church, 
 erected in 1824, is a substantial and handsome structure 
 in the centre of the parish, and contains noO sittings. 
 Two extension churches, each containing 330 sittings, 
 were erected some years ago, one of them in the district 
 of Arnizort, about twelve miles from the parish church, 
 and the other at Sloosabost, on the west side of Loch 
 Dunvegan. In each of these the parish minister preaches 
 once in five weeks. There is a government church in 
 the district of Waternish. The parochial schoolmaster 
 has a salary of £30, with a house and garden, and the 
 fees average about £S. Four schools are supported by 
 the General Assembly, and three by the Gaelic Society. 
 Among the antiquities is the castle of Dunvegan, the 
 ancient baronial residence of the Mc Leods, of which the 
 oldest portion was erected in the ninth century; a portion 
 was added to it in the thirteenth, and the two parts, con- 
 sisting of lofty towers, were connected by a range of low 
 building, erected by Rory Mor in the reign of James VI. 
 Recently the castle has undergone very extensive and 
 costly repairs, adding much to its grandeur as an object 
 in the scenery, and to its comfort as a residence. The 
 whole is situated on the summit of a lofty rock, rising 
 precipitously from the sea ; and an easier line of approach 
 was opened some years ago, by throwing a bridge across 
 the chasm which separates it from a neighbouring rock. 
 In this castle are preserved, the celebrated banner called 
 the " Fairy flag ", taken by the Mc Leods from the 
 Saracens during the crusades ; an ancient drinking-cup 
 of hard dark wood, supported on four silver feet, and 
 striped with ribs of highly-wrought silver having nume- 
 rous sockets for the reception of precious stones, some 
 of which are still remaining ; and Rory Mor's horn, a 
 drinking-cup of much larger dimensions, containing five 
 English pints, noticed by Sir Walter Scott. There are 
 numerous caverns in the rocks along the coast, one of 
 which is 120 feet in length, forty feet in height, and ten 
 feet wide ; and the cave of Idrigil is resorted to by the 
 fishermen for drying their nets, curing fish, and dressing 
 their victuals. The parish likewise contains many bar-
 
 DULL 
 
 DULL 
 
 rows, circular forts, and subterraneous dwellings : on 
 the farm of Vatten, a long narrow passage leads into a 
 central room arched with stone, from which branch off 
 several galleries conducting to other subterraneous apart- 
 ments, that have not been explored. Some rude sepul- 
 chral urns of reddish clay have been dug up ; one of 
 these is in the possession of Mc Leod of Mc Leod, and 
 another has been deposited in the Glasgow Hunterian 
 Museum. 
 (O DULL, a parish, in the county of Perth, 4 miles 
 (W. by N.) from Aberfeldy ; containing, with part of the 
 village of Aberfeldy, 3811 inhabitants, of whom 14.5 are 
 in the village of Dull. This place, the name of which is 
 derived from the Celtic dail, signifying " a plain ", ap- 
 pears to have been celebrated for a monastery founded 
 here at a very early period, and which formed one of the 
 only three Abthaneries existing in the kingdom. These 
 peculiar establishments, the superiors of which had the 
 title of Abthane, were at Dull, Kirkmichael, and Mad- 
 derty ; and Edgar, King of Scotland, conferred all of 
 them iipon his younger brother Ethelred, then abbot of 
 Dunkeld, whose successor Hugh granted the monastery 
 of Dull to the priory of St. Andrew's. The parish, which 
 comprises the districts of Appin, Grandtully, Amulrie, 
 Foss, and Fincastle, is about thirty miles in length, and, 
 from its intersection by other parishes, is of very irregu- 
 lar form. It is from four to twelve miles in breadth, 
 and consists of about 13.5,000 acres, of which 19,000 are 
 arable, pasture, and meadow, 3000 woodland and planta- 
 tions, and the remainder moor and waste. The surface 
 is divided throughout its whole length by several parallel 
 ranges of hills, forming part of the Grampians ; they 
 gradually diminish in height towards the north-east, and 
 between them are the beautiful vales of Glenquaich, 
 Appin, Foss, and Fincastle. Of these ranges the highest 
 is the central range, dividing the vale of Appin from 
 that of Foss, and containing a portion of the mountain 
 Schiehallion, which has an elevation of 3564 feet, and is 
 partly in the parish of Fortingal, and the hill of Farra- 
 gon, which is wholly in this parish, and is 2535 feet 
 above the level of the sea. In this range also is the 
 Craig of Dull, a lofty rock commanding from its summit 
 an extensive and diversified prospect, embracing the 
 richly-cultivated vales of Appin and Fortingal, Loch 
 Tay, the bridge of Kenmore, the noble mansion and 
 wooded grounds of Taymouth, and a great variety of 
 picturesque Highland scenery. 
 
 The principal river is the Tay, which, after flowing 
 through the grounds of Taymouth, in the parish of Ken- 
 more, enters this parish, and pursuing its course along 
 the vale of Appin, which it sometimes partially inun- 
 dates, runs to the north of the village of Aberfeldy into 
 the parish of Logierait. The river Lyon, which has its 
 source in Loch Lyon, in the parish of Fortingal, enters 
 this parish at Coshieville, and taking a south-eastern 
 direction, separates Dull from Weem, and flows into the 
 Tay at the eastern base of the hill of Drummond. The 
 Quaich, rising among the hills in Kenmore, expands, 
 after a course of nearly eight miles, into the Loch 
 Fraochy, in the valley of Glenquaich, on the southern 
 border of the parish. The river Tummel, issuing from 
 Loch Rannoch, flows in an eastern course into Loch 
 Tummel, forming the northern boundary of the parish ; 
 and the Garry, which has its source in Loch Garry, in 
 the parish of Blair-AthoU, intersects the north-eastern 
 Vol. I.— 313 
 
 portion of the lands. These rivers form several interest- 
 ing and highly picturesque cascades, the chief being 
 the falls of Keltnie, Camserney, Tummel, and Moness ; 
 and in the Lyon and the Tummel are found pearl- 
 muscles, some of them containing pearls of large size and 
 of brilliant lustre. There are likewise numerous lakes 
 in the parish. One of the principal of these is Loch 
 Tummel, described under the head of Blair-Atholl, on 
 the boundary of which it is situated. Loch Fraochy is 
 about two miles and a half in length, and half a mile in 
 breadth : on the south bank is a shooting-seat, the 
 property of the Marquess of Breadalbane, the demesne 
 attached to which is embellished with plantations. Trout 
 of small size, but of excellent flavour, afford sport to the 
 angler, for whose accommodation there is an excellent 
 inn about half a mile distant. Loch Ceunnard, situated 
 in the hills of Grandtully, is nearly a mile in length, 
 a quarter of a mile wide, and is encircled with bleak and 
 barren mountains. Nearly in its centre is a small islet, 
 on which are the ruins of an ancient shooting-lodge, 
 almost surrounded with plantations of larch, affording 
 shelter to flocks of black- game ; and on the north bank 
 of the loch is a neat modern villa in the cottage style. 
 There are many small lakes in the immediate vicinity, all 
 of which abound with trout, pike, and perch. 
 
 The SOIL in several parts is a rich loam alternated with 
 clay, and in others light and gravelly ; in some of the 
 districts is found a thin brownish loam mixed with sand, 
 and in others a wet moss. The chief crops are oats, 
 barley, potatoes, and turnips ; the system of husbandry 
 in the vale of Appin is in a highly advanced state, and 
 elsewhere has been much improved under the auspices 
 of the Highland Society. Great attention is paid to the 
 improvement of live stock, and to dairy-farming. The 
 cattle, of which about 5000 are kept, are generally of the 
 West Highland breed, with a few of the Ayrshire on the 
 dairy-farms ; and the sheep, of which more than 18,000 
 are fed, are of the black-faced breed, with some of the 
 Cheviot and Leicestershire on the lower grounds. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £11,649. 
 There arc considerable remains of natural wood, consist- 
 ing of birch interspersed with oak, ash, hazel, willow, 
 alder, and mountain-ash; and very extensive plantations 
 of beech, ash, plane, elm, oak, Scotch and spruce firs, 
 and larch, which last is predominant, are under careful 
 management, and in a thriving state. The rocks are 
 chiefly of mica-slate, together with quartz, granite, horn- 
 blende-slate, &c. By far the most important rock in 
 the parish, for economical purposes, is limestone, of 
 which a bed traverses the district in a south-western 
 direction, and appears at intervals in different places of 
 the adjacent districts. A stratum of the same kind of 
 rock as that of which Taymouth Castle is built, occurs 
 upon the Aird of Appin ; and there are indications of 
 slate at the base of Schiehallion, but its quality has not 
 been ascertained. 
 
 Grandtully Castle, the baronial seat for many genera- 
 tions of a branch of the ancient Stewart family, and now 
 the residence of Sir William D. Stewart, Bart., is a vene- 
 rable turreted mansion on the south bank of the river 
 Tay; and Cluny, Derculich, Foss, and Moness are all 
 handsome houses, finely situated. In the village of 
 Aberfeldy {which see) the woollen manufacture is carried 
 on to a moderate extent, there being a dye-mill, with 
 machinery for carding and spinning ; and at the hamlet 
 
 '2 S
 
 DUMB 
 
 of Camserney a carpet manufactory was established by 
 Sir Niel Menzies, Bart., which affords employment to 
 about thirty persons. There are likewise a saw-mill and 
 a wheelwright's establishment, in which latter bobbins 
 are also made, for the Dundee market. Fairs are held 
 at Aberfeldy for cattle, sheep, horses, &c., on the first 
 Thursday in January, the Tuesday before Kenmore fair 
 in March, the last Thursday in May, the last Friday in 
 July, the last Thursday in October, and the first Thursday 
 in November (mostly O. S.). Fairs for cattle and sheep 
 are also held at Amulrie on the first Tuesday and Wed- 
 nesday in May, and the Friday before the first Wednes- 
 day in November; at Coshieville on the last Thursday in 
 October, and the day before Fortingal fair in Dec. ; at 
 Turamel-Bridge on the last Friday in Oct. (O.S.) ; and for 
 horses and general business at Foss on the first Tues- 
 day in March (O.S.). A sheriff's court for small debts, 
 which has jurisdiction also over the parishes of Ken- 
 more, Killin, Fortingal, Weem, and part of the parishes 
 of Logierait and Little Dunkeld, is held quarterly at 
 Aberfeldy, and has nearly superseded the justice-of-peace 
 courts at Weem, within which district Dull is compre- 
 hended. There is a post-office at Aberfeldy, and a branch 
 office has been opened at Amulrie. Facility of commu- 
 nication is maintained by good turnpike-roads. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Weem, synod of Perth 
 and Stirling. The minister's stipend is about £250, with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £40 per annum ; patron, 
 the Croivn. The church, situated in the village of Dull, 
 is an ancient structure, repaired and reseated in 1840, 
 and contains 600 sittings. A church has been erected 
 at Foss by parliamentary grant. There are also chapels 
 in connexion with the Established Church at Amulrie 
 and Grandtully, under the patronage of the General 
 Assembly : the minister of the former has a stipend of 
 £65, wholly from the Royal Bounty, and the minister of 
 the latter has £90, of which £40 are paid by Sir WiUiam 
 D. Stewart, and the remainder from the Royal Bounty ; 
 each minister has also a manse, and about five acres of 
 arable land rent free from the proprietors. At Tummel- 
 Bridge is an episcopal chapel. The parochial school is 
 well attended ; the master has a salary of £34, with a 
 house and garden, and the fees average £14. Of the 
 monastery no vestiges now remain, with the exception of 
 a heap of shapeless rubbish near the village of Dull, sup- 
 posed to be the ruins of the abbey church. The ancient 
 cross, around which was a sanctuary, whose limits were 
 marked out by three crosses of similar form, recently 
 removed, is still remaining ; and there are numerous 
 barrows and tumuli, one of which, at the bridge of 
 Keltnie, now covered with plantations, has every ap- 
 pearance of an artificial intrenchment, and is supposed 
 to have been the site of a battle between the Fingalians 
 and the Picts. In IS36, on removing a large barrow of 
 stones between the inn at Coshieville and the river Lyon, 
 Mr. Menzies discovered about twelve stone coffins, rudely 
 formed of slabs, in some of which were found urns con- 
 taining ashes, and in others ashes and human bones only. 
 In the lands of Croftmoraig are the remains of a Druidi- 
 cal circle, nearly complete ; and in the vale of Appin 
 are several upright stones, some of them in groups, and 
 others standing alone. 
 
 DUMBARNEY, in the county of Perth.— See Dun- 
 
 BARNY. 
 
 314 
 
 Bursh Seal. 
 
 DUMB 
 
 DUMBARTON, a royal 
 burgh, the county town, and 
 a parish, in the county of 
 Dumbarton, L5 miles (N. 
 W.) from Glasgow, and 58 
 (w. by S.) from Edinburgh ; 
 containing 3828 inhabitants, 
 of whom 3782 are in the 
 burgh. This place derives 
 its name, formerly Dunbriton, 
 from an ancient fortress 
 which, though its founders 
 are unknown, became the 
 principal seat of the Strathclyde Britons, who at a very 
 remote period established themselves in this part of the 
 kingdom. The Romans, however, during their inva- 
 sions of Britain, are supposed to have made themselves 
 masters of this fortress and the territories adjacent ; 
 and on the western peak of the rock on which the castle 
 is built, are still some vestiges remaining of a light- 
 house said to have been erected for the accommodation 
 of their galleys stationed in the Clyde, which flows round 
 its base. After the departure of the Romans, the Britons 
 of Strathclyde quickly repossessed themselves of their 
 previous settlements, which they maintained against the 
 assaults of the Picts and Scots. In 756, the fortress 
 is recorded to have been taken by Egbert, King of Nor- 
 thumbria. The name of the place, while in the hands of 
 the Britons, was Alcluyd, supposed to be the Balclutha 
 celebrated in the poems of Ossian. " I have seen the 
 walls of Balclutha, but they were desolate. The fire had 
 resounded in the halls : and the voice of the people is 
 hecird no more. The stream of Clutha was removed from 
 its place, by the fall of the walls. The thistle shook 
 there its lonely head : the moss whistled to the wind. 
 The fox looked out from the windows, the rank grass of 
 the wall waved round its head. Desolate is the dwelling 
 of Moina, silence is in the house of her fathers." 
 
 The CASTLE was made a royal fortress at a very early 
 date, and the town which had arisen under its protec- 
 tion was in 1222 erected into a royal burgh by Alex- 
 ander II., who in 1238 granted a charter to the Earl of 
 Lennox, confirming to him the earldom and its posses- 
 sions, with the exception of the castle and some lands 
 adjoining. During the disputed succession to the Scot- 
 tish throne on the death of Alexander III., the castle, 
 which had been surrendered with many others to the 
 custody of Edward I. of England, was in 1298 delivered 
 by that monarch to John Baliol, whom he declared to be 
 the rightful heir to the crown. After various captures 
 and recaptures, the castle again fell into the hands of 
 Edward, who in 1305 placed it under the government 
 of Sir John Monteith, during whose occupation the 
 heroic Wallace, being treacherously made prisoner, was 
 delivered into the power of his inveterate enemy, and 
 sent to England for trial. The castle was taken by 
 Robert the Bruce in 1300 ; and during the siege of Dum- 
 barton by the English fleet in 1481, it was bravely de- 
 fended by its governor, Andrew Wood, to whom, for his 
 services on that occasion, James III. granted the lands 
 of Largo, in the county of Fife. In the beginning of 
 the reign of James II'., the castle had been placed under 
 the custody of the Earl of Lennox, on whose attainder 
 for rebellion his estates and title became forfeited to the 
 crown, and the castle was besieged by the Earl of Argyll,
 
 DUMB 
 
 DUMB 
 
 chancellor of Scotland ; but its strength resisted all his 
 efforts, and it was not till after a protracted siege by a 
 numerous force, headed by the king in person, that the 
 garrison surrendered. After the disastrous battle of 
 Pinkie in 154", Mary, the young Queen of Scots, was 
 conveyed for safety to the castle of Dumbarton, where 
 she remained till her embarkation for France ; and after 
 her return, she visited the town while on an excursion 
 into Argyllshire. During the hostilities consequent on 
 the deposition of the queen, the castle was held for her 
 by Lord Fleming for a considerable time; hut in 1571 
 it was surprised and taken for the regent by Captain 
 Crawford, who, having learned by bribery the easiest 
 mode of access, succeeded by scaling the walls ; and 
 Hamilton, Archbishop of St. Andrew's, was made prisoner, 
 and afterwards hanged at Stirling. 
 
 At the commencement of the war in the reign of 
 Charles I., the castle, which was garrisoned by the roy- 
 alists, was taken by the parliamentarians in 1639, but 
 was soon recovered by the king's forces. It again, how- 
 ever, fell into the hands of the republicans, and the 
 Scottish parliament ordered the fortifications to be de- 
 stroyed. This order was not carried into effect; in 1652 
 it was garrisoned by Oliver Cromwell, and at the time 
 of the union of the two kingdoms, the ancient castle 
 was one of the forts ordered to be kept in repair. The 
 present garrison consists of a governor, lieutenant- 
 governor, barrack-master, storekeeper, and surgeon, with 
 thirty rank and file, and twelve artillery of the royal 
 corps. The buildings are situated on a stupendous rock 
 rising precipitously from the Clyde to a height of 350 
 feet, and dividing into two conical peaks of nearly equal 
 elevation. The entrance, which is far below the point 
 where the rock divides, is defended by a rampart con- 
 taining the guard-house and apartments for the officers, 
 whence a long flight of steps leads to the interval be- 
 tween the summits. Here are the barracks for the gar- 
 rison, a battery, and a well of excellent water, behind 
 which is the governor's house. Above these, on the 
 lower summit of the rock, are several batteries, strongly 
 mounted, commanding an extensive range of the Clyde ; 
 and at high water the rock is nearly insulated by the 
 river Leven. The higher summit of the rock, the ascent 
 to which is precipitously steep, still retains the name of 
 Wallace's Seat, and that portion of the castle in which 
 the brave Wallace was confined is called Wallace's 
 Tower. Among other relies of antiquity is a large two- 
 handed sword, said to have belonged to that hero. In 
 1847, when visiting Scotland, Her Majesty the Queen 
 landed at Dumbarton, where she stayed for about three- 
 quarters of an hour, and inspected the ramparts. 
 
 The TOWN is situated on the west bank of the river 
 Leven, near its influx into the Clyde, and consists prin- 
 cipally of a street in the form of a crescent, from which 
 several smaller streets diverge. It is connected with a 
 suburb on the west side of the Leven by a handsome 
 stone bridge of five arches, nearly 300 feet in length. 
 The houses are well built ; the streets are paved, and 
 lighted with gas, and the inhabitants are amply supplied 
 with water. There is a public subscription library with 
 a collection of more than 2000 volumes, and two reading 
 and news rooms are supported by subscription. The 
 chief manufacture is that of glass, which was formerly 
 carried on to a very great extent, paying duties to go- 
 vernment amounting in one particular year to £119,000; 
 315 
 
 it is still very considerable, and the principal articles pro- 
 duced are crown and bottle glass. There are tanneries, 
 rope- walks, and brick and tile works, and various handi- 
 craft trades are pursued for the supply of the neigh- 
 bourhood ; ship-building is also carried on extensively 
 in three commodious yards belonging to the town, and 
 another yard in the adjoining parish of Cardross. In the 
 rivers Clyde and Leven are some good salmon-fisheries. 
 The Leven is navigable at high water for vessels of large 
 burthen to the quay of Dumbarton ; but at low tides, a 
 bar and some sand-banks at the mouth of the river, 
 though partly removed, allow access only to steamers 
 and small vessels. The number of vessels employed in 
 the trade of the port is about forty, of 1220 tons' aggre- 
 gate burthen. 
 
 The market, which is on Tuesday, is amply supplied 
 with grain and with provisions of all kinds. Fairs are 
 held on the third Tuesday in March and May, the Thurs- 
 day before Easter, the first Wednesday in June, which 
 is a large cattle-mart, and the second Tuesday in Au- 
 gust and November. The post-office has two deliveries 
 daily ; and branches of the Commercial and Western 
 Banks of Scotland, and several insurance agencies, have 
 been established in the town. Facility of communi- 
 cation is afforded by steam-boats, which ply thrice a 
 day to Greenock and Glasgow ; and in summer there is 
 a daily conveyance for passengers to the Loch Lomond 
 steamers, which touch at Balloch. In 1846 an act was 
 passed for the construction of a railway from Glasgow 
 to Dumbarton and Loch Lomond, with branches to 
 Helensburgh and other places. By charter of Alex- 
 ander II., extended by several of his successors, and 
 confirmed by charter of James VI., who added a grant 
 of land, the town possesses all the privileges of a royal 
 BURGH, and the burgesses, and their vessels and cargoes, 
 enjoy exemption from river-dues on the Clyde and har- 
 bour of Glasgow. Under the Municipal Reform act, 
 the government is vested in a provost, two bailies, a 
 dean of guild, treasurer, and ten councillors. There are 
 five incorporated guilds, viz., the hammermen, tailors, 
 shoemakers, coopers, and weavers, for admission into 
 which the fees are inconsiderable, the highest not ex- 
 ceeding £1.2. The magistrates have civil and criminal 
 jurisdiction within the royalty, for which they hold 
 courts as occasion requires, assisted by the town-clerk, 
 who acts as assessor ; but owing to the facilities secured 
 to sheriff-court procedure by recent statutory forms, the 
 business is now chiefly brought before the sheriff of the 
 county, who holds sheriff and commissary courts every 
 Thursday during the session, and small-debt courts 
 every alternate Thursday. Dumbarton is associated 
 with Kilmarnock, Renfrew, Rutherglen, and Port-Glas- 
 gow, in returning a member to the imperial parliament ; 
 the number of qualified voters is 158. The county gaol 
 and court-house are at the end of the main street. 
 
 The PARISH is bounded on the south by the river '^r 
 Clyde, and on the west by the river Leven, which sepa- 
 rates it from Cardross. It is from seven to eight miles 
 in extreme length, from three to four miles in breadth, 
 and comprises 6529 acres. The surface in the south is 
 level for nearly two miles from the Clyde, but after- 
 wards rises abruptly towards the north, becoming chiefly 
 moorland diversified with small hills of moderate height. 
 In many parts the scenery is beautifully picturesque. 
 The soil, though in some places shallow, is generally 
 
 2 S 2
 
 * DUMB 
 
 DUMB 
 
 fertile, partly clay alternated with gravel, and the lands 
 are in a good state of cultivation ; the crops are wheat, 
 oats, barley, bear, peas, and beans, with the usual grasses. 
 The system of husbandry is improved ; the lands are 
 inclosed, principally with fences of thorn, which are 
 well kept, and the farm-houses and offices are substan- 
 tial and commodiously arranged. The substrata are 
 chiefly limestone and sandstone ; of the former there is 
 an extensive supply at Murroch glen, and on Dumbarton 
 moor are quarries of red freestone. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £10,810. For ecclesias- 
 tical purposes the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dumbarton, synod of Glasgow and Ayr. 
 The minister's stipend is £233, with a manse, and an 
 allowance of £16 in lieu of glebe ; patrons, the Town 
 Council. The church, built about IS 10, and situated in 
 the town, is a spacious structure containing 1500 sittings. 
 A missionary is established here, who receives a stipend 
 of £52, raised by subscription ; there are places of wor- 
 ship for members of the Free Church and the United 
 Presbyterian Synod, and a Roman Catholic chapel. The 
 parochial school is attended by nearly 200 children ; 
 the master has a salary of £40, with a school-house, and 
 the fees, though very moderate, are considerable from 
 the number of scholars : the school is under the patron- 
 age of the council. Dr. Smollett, the novelist, received 
 the rudiments of his education in this town ; and Dr. 
 Colquhoun, author of a treatise on the Wealth, Power, 
 and Resources of the British Empire, was born here. It 
 is said that George Buchanan the historian received part 
 of his education at the place. Dumbarton conferred the 
 title of Earl on a branch of the Douglas family, but it 
 became extinct on the demise of the second earl without 
 issue, about the middle of the last century. 
 (i DUMBARTONSHIRE, a county, in the west of 
 Scotland, bounded on the north by Perthshire, on the 
 east by the counties of Perth and Stirling, on the south 
 by the Firth of Clyde, and on the west by Argyllshire. 
 It lies between 55° 53' 30" and 56° 19' 40" (N. Lat.) and 
 3° 54' 50" and 4° 53' (W. Long.), and, including the de- 
 tached parishes of Kirkintilloch and Cumbernauld, which 
 extend towards the east for 12 miles between the coun- 
 ties of Stirling and Lanark, is about 57 miles in length. 
 It varies from 24 to 2 miles in breadth, and contains an 
 area of 261 square miles, or 167,040 acres ; 8369 houses, 
 of which 7985 are inhabited ; and a population of 44,296, 
 of whom 22,542 are males and 21,754 females. This 
 district was originally inhabited by the British tribe of 
 the Attacotti, whose descendants retained their posses- 
 sions long after the British kingdom of Strathclyde had 
 been subdued by Kenneth Mc Alpine, and subsisted as 
 a distinct race till the middle of the twelfth century. 
 That part of the county bordering on the river Leven 
 obtained the appellation of Levenach, afterwards cor- 
 rupted into Lennox, and in the reign of William the 
 Lion belonged to a powerful Saxon family, of whom 
 Alwyn was by that monarch created Earl of Lennox. 
 The earldom was subsequently raised to a dukedom ; 
 and on the demise of the sixth duke without issue, the 
 title and estates were conferred upon Charles Lennox, 
 whom Charles II. created Duke of Richmond. During 
 the disputes relating to the succession to the throne 
 after the death of Alexander III., the county was fre- 
 quently the seat of war; and the castle of Dumbarton 
 was alternately in the possession of the contending par- 
 316 
 
 ties. In times of episcopacy the county was included 
 in the diocese of Glasgow ; at present it is in the synod 
 of Glasgow and Ayr, and comprises a large part of the 
 presbytery of Dumbarton, and a portion of that of 
 Glasgow, the number of parishes being twelve. The 
 various courts are held at Dumbarton, which is the 
 county town, and the only royal burgh ; there are four 
 burghs of barony, and several villages. Under the act 
 of the 2nd of William IV., the county returns one mem- 
 ber to the imperial parliament. 
 
 The SURFACE is strikingly diversified with mountains 
 and lakes, and displays an interesting combination of the 
 most beautiful features of Highland scenery, embracing 
 straths of rich fertility and pleasing appearance. The 
 northern part of the county abounds with mountains of 
 majestic elevation, and throughout the whole of that dis- 
 trict, which comprises an area of nearly fifty square 
 miles, not more than 400 acres have been subjected to 
 the plough. In the less elevated southern district are 
 two ridges of hills of considerable height reaching from 
 east to west, between which is the picturesque vale of 
 Glenfruin, more than five miles in length. The highest 
 of the mountains are, Ben-Voirlich, near the north- 
 western extremity of Loch Lomond, rising 3300 feet 
 above the level of the sea ; Ben-Cruachanstean, Corafuar, 
 Shantron, Beneich, and Doune, some of which attain an 
 elevation of 3000 feet ; and Ben-Finnart, 2500 feet in 
 height. The Kilpatrick braes, in the south of the county, 
 are a beautiful range of hills intersecting an extensive 
 tract of lowland in high cultivation, and have an eleva- 
 tion of 1200 feet, commanding from their summits 
 richly-varied prospects over a most interesting district 
 of the country. Loch Lomond, after intersecting a 
 small portion of the county on the north, forms part of 
 its eastern boundary, separating it from the county of 
 Stirling. This noble expanse of water is about twenty- 
 four miles in length from north to south, and seven 
 miles broad in the widest part, and is studded with 
 numerous picturesque islands, the chief of which are 
 Inch-Murin, Inch-Lonaig, Inch-Tavanach, Inch-Moan, 
 Inch-Couachan, and Inch-Galbraith, exclusively of other 
 islands in that part of it included within Stirlingshire. 
 The river Leven issues from the loch at its southern ex- 
 tremity, and after a course of about seven miles, flows 
 into the Firth of Clyde. Of the other lakes in the 
 county, Loch Sloy, in the parish of Arrochar, was the 
 rendezvous of the clan' Mc Farlane ; it is about a mile 
 in length, and half a mile broad. In the parishes of Old 
 Kilpatrick and Cumbernauld are several of considerable 
 extent. There are also two salt-water lochs. Loch Gare- 
 loch and Loch Long, between which the parish of Rose- 
 neath forms a peninsula ; they both extend northward 
 from the Firth of Clyde, the former intersecting the 
 county for about six miles, and the latter forming its 
 boundary on the west. 
 
 About one-third of the land is in cultivation, and the 
 remainder is mountain pasture, wood, and lakes. Along 
 the borders of the Firth and the river Leven the soil is 
 a deep black loam ; in some parts of the county there 
 is a gravelly loam, and in others clay, resting on a tilly 
 bottom. On the best farms the system of agriculture is 
 equal to any in the west of Scotland : the land is well 
 drained and inclosed ; much waste has been brought 
 into cultivation ; the farm-buildings are substantial and 
 commodious, and considerable improvement has been
 
 D U M F 
 
 D UMF 
 
 gradually taking place. The mountains afford good 
 pasture : the cattle are chiefly of the Highland breed, 
 and the cows pastured on the lowlands for the dairy are 
 the pure Ayrshire, 'with a mixture of that breed and the 
 Highland breed ; the sheep are generally the black-faced 
 on the hill pastures, and the Cheviot on the lowlands. 
 In this county the substrata are mostly mica-slate, lime- 
 stone, and coal ; the mica-slate is wrought at the quar- 
 ries of Luss and Camstradden, and the streams are 
 frequently traversed by veins of quartz, and abound 
 with pyrites of iron. The limestone is of a deep-blue or 
 almost black colour, and is extensively wrought, as is 
 the coal, which is found in seams nearly five feet in 
 thickness. Sandstone and trap are also abundant, and 
 columnar basalt occurs in several parts. The woods 
 and plantations are in a thriving condition ; the soil 
 appears well adapted to the growth of timber, and the 
 extensive tracts of wood add greatly to the appearance 
 of the scenery. The seats are Cumbernauld House, 
 Roseneath, Rossdhft, Cames-Eskan, Garscube, Balloch 
 Castle, Tilliechewen, Strath-Leven, Broomly, Woodbank, 
 Cameron, Ardenconnell, Auchintorlie, and Ardincaple 
 Castle. There are extensive cotton-mills, calico-printing 
 works, and bleachfields, a large manufacture of glass, 
 and other works. Facility of intercourse is afforded by 
 good roads, which have been greatly extended and im- 
 proved within the last few years ; by railways ; by 
 steam-boats on the Clyde, &c. ; and by the Forth and 
 Clyde Canal. The annual value of real property in the 
 county is £140,753, of which £72,041 are returned for 
 lands, £61,321 for houses, £5500 for mines, £1677 for 
 quarries, and £214 for fisheries. 
 
 DUMFRIES, a royal 
 burgh, the county town, a 
 port, and the seat of a pres- 
 bytery and synod, in the 
 county of Dumfries; com- 
 prising the parishes of St. 
 Michael and New-Church, 
 with the villages of George- 
 town, Locharbriggs, Loch- 
 thorn, and part of Kelton ; 
 and containing 11,409 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 10,069 are 
 in the burgh, 7I5 miles (S. 
 This place is supposed to have 
 derived its name from its situation on an eminence rising 
 from a tract of sterile soil abounding in brushwood or 
 furze. Little is recorded of its early history, but from 
 numerous relics of antiquity, it would appear to have 
 been of some importance prior to the eighth century. 
 The ancient castle of the Comyn family, the site of 
 which, overlooking the river Nith, still retains the 
 name of Castle-dykes, has long since disappeared ; nor 
 is the date of its erection known, though it is noticed as 
 a place of formidable strength before the reign of Ed- 
 ward I. A monastery for Franciscan friars was founded 
 by Dervorgilla, daughter of Allan, Lord of Galloway, and 
 mother of John Baliol, King of Scotland, about the be- 
 ginning of the thirteenth century, on an eminence that 
 is washed by the Nith river on the north and west ; and 
 a noble bridge, originally of thirteen arches, was erected 
 by the founder over the stream for the accommodation 
 of the brethren. In 1305, Robert Bruce, attended by 
 Roger de Kirkpatrick and James Lindsay, held a con- 
 317 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 by W.) from Edinburgh. 
 
 ference in the chapel of this monastery with John Comyn, 
 surnamed the Red, and in a dispute with that nobleman, 
 whom Robert charged with treacherously revealing to 
 Edward I. the designs he had formed for the emancipa- 
 tion of his country from the English yoke, stabbed him 
 with his dagger. Upon this he hastily rejoined his at- 
 tendants ; but Kirkpatrick, resolving to make sure of 
 Comyn's death, returned into the church, despatched 
 the wounded chieftain, and also killed his brother who 
 interposed for his defence. The church was soon after- 
 wards deserted, and the friars removed their establish- 
 ment to the chapel of St. Michael, south-east of the 
 town ; the cause of the desertion and removal being, as 
 is said, the pollution of the monastery by the slaughter 
 of the Red Comyn before the high altar. There are no 
 remains of the monastery, and the only memorial of it 
 preserved is the name of the narrow street leading to it 
 from the bridge, and which is still called the Friars' 
 Veimel. 
 
 In 1307, Edward II. of England, after his coronation, 
 advanced to Dumfries to receive the homage of several 
 of the Scottish nobility. The town was afterwards re- 
 peatedly attacked by the English, by whom it was burnt 
 in 1488, and also in 1536. In retaliation of the latter 
 injury. Lord Maxwell of Terregles, a powerful nobleman, 
 crossed the border with a body of his retainers, and 
 penetrating into England, assaulted the town of Penrith, 
 which he reduced to ashes. The Maxwells, who had an 
 ancient castle near the site of the monastery, supposed 
 to have been built in the twelfth century, erected a more 
 spacious and magnificent structure, partly out of the 
 ruins, and almost on the site of the deserted friary ; and 
 this castle, in 1563, was visited by Mary, Queen of Scots, 
 who, attended by her privy council, came to Dumfries 
 to ratify a treaty of peace with England. In 1565, the 
 disaffected Lords Argyll, Murray, Rothes, and others 
 having assembled a hostile force in the neighbourhood, 
 the queen advanced to the town with an array of 18,000 
 men ; the discontented nobles, on her approach, fled 
 into England, and Lord Maxwell, having incurred her 
 displeasure, conciliated her favour by surrendering his 
 castle, of which, however, he was permitted to retain the 
 government. In 1570 this castle was taken and plun- 
 dered by the English forces under the command of the 
 Earl of Essex and Lord Scrope, who also laid waste the 
 town. 
 
 In 1617, James VI., after his accession to the crown 
 of England, visited his ancient dominions, and passing 
 through Dumfries, remained for one night in the town. 
 He was received with every demonstration of affectionate 
 loyalty, and presented to the corporation a silver gun, 
 to be periodically contested for as a prize for the suc- 
 cessful competitor, among the several crafts, in shooting 
 at a target. The house in which the king lodged was 
 built by a poor labourer who, having found a large trea- 
 sure while digging peat in the Lochar moss, took a jour- 
 ney to London, where, in a personal interview with the 
 monarch, he was allowed to retain possession of it, and 
 advised to build a house, in which the king promised to 
 lodge when he visited his Scottish dominions. The in- 
 habitants displayed a marked opposition to the union of 
 the two kingdoms in 1706, and to testify their aversion 
 to that measure, burnt a paper containing the articles of 
 union and the names of the commissioners, at the mar- 
 ket-cross. At the time of the rebellion in 1715, however,
 
 DUMF 
 
 D U M F 
 
 they zealously asserted their allegiance to the reigning 
 monarch ; and on being apprised of the design of Lord 
 Kenmuir to visit the town with a large body of insur- 
 gents, they so completely fortified it where it was most 
 exposed to any attack, that the party were induced to 
 abandon their intention. In 1745 the Pretender, on his 
 return from England, advanced to Dumfries with a body 
 too powerful to be resisted, and took up his quarters in 
 the town. In resentment of the opposition which his 
 troops had experienced on their march into England, he 
 levied a fine of £2000 in money, and a supply of 1000 
 pairs of shoes ; but being intimidated by a report that 
 the Duke of Cumberland was rapidly marching to attack 
 hira, he hastily withdrew, taking £1000 of the fine, and 
 the provost and one of the bailies as hostages for pay- 
 ment of the remainder. 
 ^f) The TOWN is pleasantly situated on the east bank of 
 the river Nith, and is about a mile in length, and a 
 quarter of a mile in breadth. Its streets are regular and 
 well formed, intersecting each other at right angles. 
 The houses are uniformly built of red freestone, generally 
 painted of a colour resembling Portland stone ; those 
 that are of ancient date are substantial and of handsome 
 appearance, and those of more modern erection are con- 
 spicuous for elegance. Queensberry-square is embel- 
 lished in the centre with a stately Doric column, erected 
 in 1 7S0 to the memory of Charles, Duke of Queensberry. 
 An elegant and commodious bridge was built over the 
 Nith in 1794, a little above the ancient bridge of thirteen 
 arches, reduced by frequent alterations to seven arches, 
 and now solely appropriated to foot passengers. The 
 streets are all well paved, and lighted with gas from 
 works established in IS'ZS ; gas has also been introduced 
 into the shops and most of the public buildings, and the 
 inhabitants are amply supplied with excellent water from 
 springs in the neighbourhood. A public subscription 
 library was founded in 1792, and forms a valuable col- 
 lection on general literature ; there are also several cir- 
 culating libraries, a public newsroom, and four reading- 
 rooms, all supplied with daily journals and periodical 
 publications, besides a mechanics' institution which has 
 a good collection of books. Card and dancing assem- 
 blies are held in a handsome suite of rooms erected for 
 the purpose in George-street ; and a theatre, a commo- 
 dious and well-arranged building, in which Kean made his 
 first appearance, is open for two or three months during 
 the season. Races take place annually on the Tinwald 
 Downs, and are well attended ; a regatta is celebrated 
 by a club established here, and the members of the 
 Caledonian hunt hold their meetings by rotation in the 
 town. The Dumfries and Galloway Horticultural So- 
 ciety, instituted in 1812 for the promotion of improve- 
 ments in horticulture, also meet here periodically. 
 
 The cotton manufacture, consisting chiefly of checked 
 cottons, formerly carried on to a very considerable ex- 
 tent, has been for some time nearly discontinued, and 
 the few spinners of the town who remain are mostly 
 employed by the Carlisle and Glasgow manufacturers. 
 Among the principal manufactures now are those of hats 
 and stockings ; of the former there are three establish- 
 ments, affording employment to about 200 persons in 
 the aggregate, and in the latter 279 looms are constantly 
 in operation. The tanning of leather is also pursued, 
 and the hides are sent to Glasgow, London, and other 
 parts of the United Kingdom, in large quantities. The 
 318 
 
 manufacture of shoes is very extensive, giving occupation 
 to about 300 persons ; and a considerable number are 
 engaged in the making of clogs, or shoes with wooden 
 soles, a trade not now, as formerly, confined to the sup- 
 ply of the south of Scotland, and which has been intro- 
 duced with great profit. There are several public brew- 
 eries, and a large basket-making establishment. 
 
 A very lucrative trade is carried on in the sale of 
 pork, of which, during the season, commencing about 
 the close of December, and ending about the beginning 
 of April, many thousand carcases are sent to the south 
 to be cured ; not less than 700 are upon an average sold 
 weekly for this purpose, and frequently sales to the 
 amount of £4000 or £5000 have been effected in one 
 day. The foreign trade of the port consists chiefly in 
 the importation of timber from America, in which seve- 
 ral large vessels are engaged ; the traffic in tobacco, 
 formerly extensive, has been for many years discontinued. 
 The coasting-trade is mainly with Liverpool, Whitehaven, 
 Maryport, and other parts of the English coast, and 
 with Ireland. The imports are, timber to the amount 
 of nearly £10,000 per annum, coal, slate, iron, tallow, 
 hemp, and wine ; and the exports, cattle, sheep, wool, 
 freestone, oats, barley, wheat, and other agricultural 
 produce. In 1843 the number of vessels registered was 
 220, of the aggregate burthen of 1 2,380 tons. The juris- 
 diction of the port, which includes the creek of Annan, 
 extends from Sark foot at the head of the Solway Firth 
 to Glenluce on the Galloway coast ; and the amount of 
 duties paid at the custom-house in the year 1843 was 
 £8764. Since the channel of the river has been made 
 deeper, vessels of considerable burthen can approach the 
 town, by which means the inhabitants obtain with great 
 facility a supply of coal from Whitehaven. There are 
 also a commodious quay near Castle-dykes, another for 
 vessels of larger burthen about a mile below it, and 
 one at the mouth of the river for vessels engaged in the 
 foreign trade. The various improvements connected 
 with the harbour were completed at a cost of £18,530. 
 A steam-vessel plies weekly during the summer months 
 between Dumfries and Whitehaven, and large quantities of 
 live stock, especially sheep, are thus sent to the English 
 markets. The post-ofiice has a good delivery ; and 
 great facility of intercourse is afforded by the Glasgow, 
 Dumfries, and Carlisle railway. Branches of the Bank 
 of Scotland, the National Bank, Commercial Bank, and 
 the British Linen Company, are established. 
 
 The market, which is abundantly supplied and nume- 
 rously attended, is on Wednesday, when a great amount 
 of business is transacted by cattle-dealers, on an open 
 area near the river, called the Sands. Fairs chiefly for 
 cattle are held at Whitsuntide and Martinmas, and for 
 horses in February and October, at all of which exten- 
 sive sales are made. At the fair in February, large 
 numbers of hare-skins are sold, averaging generally 
 about 30,000. A cattle-market is also held in Septem- 
 ber, about the time of the Broughill-fair in Cumberland, 
 when, upon an average, about 4500 head are exposed 
 for sale, mostly three-year-old Galloways, and others of 
 the Highland breed ; and on some occasions business to 
 the amount of £30,000 has been transacted. The mar- 
 ket for meal is still held in a building appropriated to 
 that purpose ; but the shambles for butchers' meat have 
 been long deserted, the butchers finding it more pro- 
 fitable to open shops in different parts of the town. 
 
 \
 
 D UM F 
 
 D U MF 
 
 The town was made a royal burgh by William the 
 Lion prior to the year 1214. In 1396 Robert III. con- 
 ferred upon the inhabitants various valuable immunities, 
 which were confirmed by James I., who by charter in 
 1415 granted additional privileges; and in 1469 James 
 III. gave to the corporation all the lands and revenues 
 which belonged to the monastery of the Grey friars. 
 The corporation consists of a provost, three bailies, a 
 dean of guild, treasurer, and twelve merchant and seven 
 trade councillors, the seven being the convener and six 
 other deacons of the incorporated trades. All the officers 
 are elected under the provisions of the Municipal Reform 
 act. The incorporated trades are the hammermen, ma- 
 sons, weavers, tailors, shoemakers, skinners, and butchers; 
 the fee for admission as a member is, for a stranger £10, 
 and for the son or son-in-law of a freeman £1. 1. The 
 jurisdiction of the burgh extends over the whole of the 
 royalty ; and the magistrates hold courts for the deter- 
 mination of civil pleas and the trial of petty offences, in 
 which they are assisted by the town-clerk, who acts as 
 assessor. The police is under the direction of a body of 
 commissioners chosen by the £10 householders, and of 
 whom the provost, the bailies, and the convener are 
 members ex officio ; the number of commissioners is 
 twelve, and the superintendence of the six wards into 
 which the burgh is divided is allotted to them, one ward 
 being assigned to every tvvo commissioners. As the 
 county town, the courts of assize and quarter-sessions, 
 the sheriff's courts, and those of the commissary are 
 regularly held at Dumfries, and the public business of 
 the county transacted. In the centre of the High- 
 street stands what is called the Mid Steejile, a handsome 
 building erected by the celebrated Inigo Jones, and 
 comprising a hall and other apartments for the meet- 
 ings of the town-council ; and opposite to it is the 
 Trades -hall, a neat structure erected in 1804. The 
 County hall, or court-house, is a spacious and elegant 
 edifice, comprising an ample hall for the county meet- 
 ings, rooms for holding the several courts, with apart- 
 ments for the judges, and accommodation for witnesses 
 and others connected with the business of the sessions. 
 A building originally intended for a bridewell has been 
 appropriated as a depot for the county militia, and that 
 which was at first designed for the court-house has 
 been arranged as a bridewell ; it is, however, small and 
 ill adapted for classification. Behind the bridewell is 
 the County gaol, erected in 1807, and inclosed with a 
 high wall, in the area between which and the building 
 prisoners for debt have the privilege of exercise : a sub- 
 terranean passage leads from the prison to the court- 
 room, and by this prisoners are led to trial. Dumfries 
 is associated with Annan, Kirkcudbright, Lochmaben, 
 and Sanquhar, in returning a representative to the 
 house of commons. The parliamentary boundary in- 
 cludes the whole of the royalty, with the exception of 
 some lands to the south and east of the town, and also 
 includes the suburb of MaxwcUtown, a burgh of barony 
 on the west side of the river. The right of election 
 under the Reform act is vested in the £10 householders ; 
 the sheriff is the returning officer. 
 
 The PARISH is nearly seven miles in length, and' from 
 two to three in breadth, comprising about 9280 acres. 
 Of this area 7930 acres are arable, 320 pasture, and the 
 remainder, of which the far greater portion will probably 
 be brought under profitable cultivation, moss and waste 
 319 
 
 land. The surface, though generally level, is diversified 
 by the elevated site of the town, and by a ridge of hills 
 near the southern extremity, of no great height, sloping 
 gradually towards the river on the south-west, and 
 rising abruptly on the north-east. On this latter side, 
 about a mile below the town, there is a singular cavity 
 in the face of the rock, named the Maiden Bower ; and 
 towards the south-east of the parish is an eminence 
 called Trohaughton, supposed to have been the site of 
 a Roman camp. The river Lochar, which rises in the 
 adjoining parish of Tinwald, and falls into the Sol- 
 way Firth, bounds Dumfries on the east, forming in 
 the south an extensive tract of marsh called Lochar 
 Moss, partly in this parish, and partly in Torthorwald, 
 Mouswald, and Caerlaverock. There are several lakes, 
 of which the principal are Black loch and Sand loch, 
 both of them abounding with trout and perch. The 
 SOIL in the north and north-east is generally a hght 
 reddish sandy loam, resting on a substratum of free- 
 stone ; and in other parts, and especially near the river, 
 a retentive clay, with a substratum of gravel. The 
 crops are oats, barley, wheat, turnips, and potatoes ; 
 the rotation system of husbandry is practised, and the 
 state of agriculture is much improved. Considerable 
 attention is paid to live stock : with the exception of 
 Ayrshire cows on the dairy-farms, the cattle are usually 
 of the pure Galloway breed. The farm-buildings, though 
 inferior to many others, are still commodious ; the 
 lands are well inclosed, and portions of the Lochar moss 
 were some years ago brought into cultivation, yielding 
 abundant crops of oats, potatoes, and rye-grass. Upon 
 this moss, ploughing by steam was first attempted in 
 Scotland, in 1S37, and has proved quite successful ; but 
 although many thousands of pounds have been spent in 
 thus reclaiming the moss by the plough, it is the opinion 
 of those practically acquainted with the subject, that 
 sand, clay, or some other solid earthy substance must 
 be laid upon it so as to consolidate it. Some notion of 
 the bulk of the ploughing machinery may be formed 
 from the fact, that the expense of carting it from Glen- 
 caple-Quay, only three miles distant, was as much as 
 £15 : it weighs, in fact, upwards of 25 tons. There are 
 several quarries of red sandstone in the parish, four of 
 which are extensively wrought ; and also some salmon 
 and trout fisheries, the rents of which yield about £500 
 per annum. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £24,743. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish was divided 
 in 1727, by authority of the presbytery, with the con- 
 currence of the magistrates of the burgh, into two dis- 
 tricts ; and an additional church was erected, which still 
 retains the appellation of the New Church, and has a 
 minister appointed by the Crown as patron of both. 
 The minister of the old parish, now the district of St. 
 Michael, has a stipend of £332, with a manse, and 
 a glebe valued at £25 per annum. The church, situ- 
 ated at the south-east end of the town, was built on 
 the site of the ancient structure in 1745 ; it is a neat 
 edifice with a lofty graceful spire, and contains 1250 
 sittings. The churchyard, which is spacious, contains 
 a large number of monuments, including many of 
 deeply interesting character. The remains of the poet 
 Burns were originally interred in the northern angle of 
 the burying-ground, under a plain slab placed by his 
 widow ; but in 1815 his ashes were removed into a
 
 DU M F 
 
 D UM F 
 
 handsome mausoleum, erected by his countrymen at an 
 expense of £1450, and above the entrance of which is a 
 representation of the Genius of Scotland throwing her 
 mantle over the poet while at the plough, finely sculp- 
 tured in marble by Turnerelli. It has been calculated 
 that the value of the monuments in this churchyard, 
 now in a state of preservation, is little short of £100,000. 
 The minister of the New Church district has a stipend 
 of £"281. 13., of which £151. 13., including an allow- 
 ance of £50 in lieu of manse and glebe, are paid by the 
 exchequer. The church, situated at the north-west end 
 of the town, was erected on the site, and partly with 
 the materials, of the ancient castle, at the expense of the 
 tnwn-council, in 1727 ; it is a neat structure containing 
 1185 sittings. The subordinate church of St. Man/, 
 fronting the road to England, was erected in 1S38, at a 
 cost of £3000, by subscription ; it is an elegant struc- 
 ture after a design by Mr. Henderson, of Edinburgh, in 
 the later English style of architecture, with an embattled 
 tower surmounted by a lofty spire strengthened with 
 flying buttresses. An episcopal chapel was erected in 
 1817, at a cost of £'2200 ; and there are places of wor- 
 ship for members of the Free Church, the United Pres- 
 byterian Church, Reformed Presbyterians, Independents, 
 and Wesleyans, and a Roman Catholic chapel. 
 
 The Dumfries Acadcmij, for which a spacious building 
 was erected by subscription in 1800, is under the super- 
 intendence of a rector and four masters, appointed by 
 the corporation. The rector, in addition to the fees, 
 which are moderate, has the interest of £660. 6. 3., and 
 each of the four masters the interest of £204. 8. 10., 
 arising from endowments. There are also a French and 
 a drawing master, who are paid exclusively by the fees. 
 The course of instruction comprises the Greek, Latin, 
 French, and English languages, the mathematics, geo- 
 graphy, arithmetic, book-keeping, writing, and drawing. 
 Two schools, one for the instruction of children of both 
 sexes in reading, writing, arithmetic, and the principles 
 of religion, and the other for teaching girls to sew, and 
 to read the Bible, are supported by the Highland Edu- 
 cation Society and some benevolent societies established 
 in the parish ; the teachers have each a salary, the 
 former of £60, and the latter of £20 per annum, with a 
 house each rent-free. There are two schools for adults, 
 supported by contributions ; and an infant school. The 
 ('richtnn Royal Institution or Lunatic Asylum originated 
 with Mrs. Elizabeth Crichton, widow of the late Dr. 
 Crichton, of Friars' Carse, who bequeathed £100,000, 
 at her sole disposal, for such charitable purposes in 
 Scotland as a majority of his trustees should approve 
 of. From the funds thus left, Mrs. Crichton founded 
 and endowed this establishment, which enjoys the re- 
 putation of being the best lunatic asylum in Scotland. 
 It is situated on an eminence about three-quarters of a 
 mile from the south-eastern extremity of the town : the 
 building was erected in 1839, after a design by Mr. 
 Burn of Edinburgh, in the Grecian style, and is of 
 handsome appearance, and surrounded by ample grounds 
 tastefully laid out. A house for poor orphans and aged 
 persons was erected in 1*33, with funds bequeathed for 
 that purpose by IVilliam Muirhead, merchant, of Carlisle, 
 and his cousin James Muirhead, of Castle-dykes. This 
 establishment, which is further supported by annual 
 subscriptions and by donations, is under the direction of 
 a committee chosen from the Kirk Session, the town- 
 320 
 
 council, and others, who meet weekly. It contains ac- 
 commodation for twenty children and thirty aged per- 
 sons, \mder the care of a roaster and mistress, who 
 reside in the house : the children are taught writing, 
 reading, arithmetic, and the principles of religion, and 
 when of proper age are apprenticed to trades, or placed 
 out to service. Connected with the establishment are 
 also forty-two widows, who receive pensions at their 
 own dwellings. The expenses average about £500 per 
 annum. The Dumfries and Galloway Royal Infirmary, 
 with which a lunatic asylum was formerly connected, 
 was founded in 1776. The building of the institution, 
 situate at the south-eastern extremity of the town, is a 
 long, narrow, gloomy structure, but has been very com- 
 fortable since the erection of the Crichton Asylum en- 
 abled the governors to do away with the old lunatic 
 asylum. The establishment is superintended by a com- 
 mittee of subscribers ; the medical department is under 
 the inspection of two visiting physicians and surgeons, 
 and a resident house surgeon ; and a licentiate of the 
 Established Church officiates as chaplain. On an ave- 
 rage, the daily number of patients in the house is rather 
 more than forty ; and from 500 to 1000 receive advice 
 and medicines at the institution annually. The expen- 
 diture is about £1300 per annum, defrayed by bequests, 
 donations, and subscriptions, and liberal contributions 
 from the counties of Dumfries and Wigtown and the 
 stewartry of Kirkcudbright, to all of which it is open. 
 The Dispensary, situated at the western extremity of the 
 town, is supported by public subscription, and admi- 
 nisters extensive relief to the indigent poor. 
 
 Upon an eminence near the entrance into the town 
 from the English road, where St. Mary's chapel now 
 stands, might formerly be traced the foundations of St. 
 Christopher's chapel, erected by Robert the Bruce in 
 memory of his father-in-law, Sir Christopher Seton, who 
 was hanged on that spot by order of Edward I. On 
 the left bank of the river, just above the tow-n, is Moat 
 Brae, supposed to have been a place for administering 
 justice during the Saxon era. A Roman sandal was 
 found in the eastern part of the parish many years since, 
 and in the river a gold coin, about the size of a sixpenny 
 piece, but much thicker, bearing a Roman head, with 
 the inscription Augustus. Among some scraps of old 
 iron, also, was lately found an ancient seal about two 
 inches in diameter, bearing a lion rampant in a shield 
 bordered with fleurs de lis, with the legend Jacobus Dei. 
 Gra. Rex. Scotoium in characters reversed ; it is sup- 
 posed to have been the privy seal of one of the Scottish 
 kings. A canoe, similar to the canoes used by the 
 North American savages, was found in Lochar moss 
 some years ago. 
 
 DUMFRIES-SHIRE, a county, in the south of Scot- /i> 
 land, bounded on the north by the counties of Lanark, 
 Peebles, and Selkirk, on the east by Roxburghshire and 
 part of the English county of Cumberland, on the south 
 by the Solway Firth, and on the west by the county of 
 Ayr and the stewartry of Kirkcudbright. It lies be- 
 tween 55° 2' and 55° 31' (N. Lat.) and 2° 39' and 3° 53' 
 (W. Long.), and is about fifty miles in length and thirty 
 miles in breadth, comprising 1016 square miles, or 
 650,240 acres; 14,356 inhabited houses, and 733 un- 
 inhabited ; and containing a population of 72,830, of 
 whom 34, 137 are males and 38,693 females. The county 
 was originally inhabited by the Selgova, and after the 
 
 J
 
 D U M F 
 
 D U M F 
 
 invasion of the Romans formed part of the province of 
 Valentia ; upon the departure of the Romans it was 
 occupied by the Northumbrian Saxons, and subsequently 
 by numerous emigrants from Ireland, who had settled 
 first on the peninsula of Cantyre. In the reign of 
 David I. many of the Norman barons obtained posses- 
 sions here, among whom was Robert de Brus, who pro- 
 cured a grant of the lands of Annandale, and was an- 
 cestor of Robert Bruce, King of Scotland. Previously 
 to the reign of James VI., the county was often the 
 scene of sanguinary conflicts between hostile clans, and, 
 from its situation near the border, was subject to re- 
 peated predatory incursions of the English. It was 
 anciently included in the diocese of Glasgow, and com- 
 prised the deaneries of Nithsdale and Annandale; at 
 present it constitutes the greater part of the synod of 
 Dumfries, and contains several presbyteries, and forty- 
 two parishes. It includes the royal burghs of Dum- 
 fries (which is the county town), Annan, Lochmaben, 
 and Sanquhar ; and the towns of Moffat, Lockerbie, 
 Langholm, Ecclesfechan, Thornhill, and Minuiehive, 
 which are all burghs of barony. Under the act of the 
 ■^nd of William IV., the county returns one member to 
 the imperial parliament. 
 
 The SURFACE near the sea-coast is level, rising to- 
 wards the middle portion into ridges of hills of moderate 
 elevation, intersected with fertile vales, and becoming 
 mountainous in the north. The whole is separated into 
 three principal districts, each deriving its name from 
 the river which flows through it ; of these, Eskdale 
 forms the eastern, Annandale the middle, and Nithsdale 
 the western part of the county. In Eskdale the chief 
 mountains are the Langholm, the Wisp, the Tinnis, and 
 Etterick-Penn, varying from 1200 to "2220 feet in height ; 
 in Annandale, Errickstane-Brae, Loch-Skene, and the 
 Hartfell, from 1118 to 2629 feet; and in Nithsdale, 
 Cairn-Kinnow, Queensberry, Black-Larg, and the Low- 
 thers, which have elevations ranging from 2080 to 3150 
 feet above the level of the sea. From each of the three 
 dales diverge smaller valleys, watered by their several 
 streams, and the principal of which are Moffatdale, 
 Dryfesdale, and Eskdale. The river Esk has its source 
 in the vale to which it gives name, and, receiving in its 
 course the White Esk, which rises on the borders of 
 Selkirk, flows into the Solway Firth. The Annan rises 
 on the borders of Peeblesshire, and, after being augmented 
 by numerous tributary streams, also falls into the Firth ; 
 while the Nith, rising in Ayrshire, and pursuing a south- 
 east course, joins the Solway Firth about three miles 
 below the town of Dumfries. The rivers and their tri- 
 butaries abound with excellent trout. There are numerous 
 lakes, of which not less than nine are in the parish of 
 Lochmaben ; and in the mountain of Loch Skene is one 
 that forms the picturesque cascade called the Grey- 
 mare's-tail. The Solway Firth, into which the waters 
 of the rivers discharge themselves, differs very mate- 
 rially from other estuaries receiving in Scotland the ap- 
 pellation of firths. Its depth is inconsiderable ; and at 
 the ebbing of the tide, long sandy reaches are left. The 
 flows and ebbs of the Solway are proverbial for the ra- 
 pidity of their action, and this is particularly the case 
 during spring-tides, and the prevalence of gales from the 
 south-west ; persons have repeatedly been overwhelmed 
 and drowned when crossing the bed of the estuary to 
 Cumberland, being overtaken by the waters. The Firth 
 Vol. I.— 321 
 
 abounds in salmon and other fish. Not much timber 
 of ancient growth is to be seen in the county : the 
 parish of Tinwald was formerly one extensive forest, 
 but this has long since disappeared ; and the woods and 
 plantations are now chiefly those around the houses of 
 the landowners. 
 
 The SOIL varies from a rich loam to a light sand ; the 
 system of agriculture is in an improved state, and con- 
 siderable attention is paid to the rearing of live stock. 
 The cattle are chiefly of the Galloway breed, and the 
 cows on the dairy-farms of the Ayrshire ; the sheep are 
 generally of the Cheviot and black-faced breeds : vast 
 numbers of pigs are kept, and great quantities of bacon 
 and hams are sent to the Liverpool, Newcastle, and 
 London markets. The minerals are mostly lead, anti- 
 mony, iron, and gypsum. The lead is very abundant, and 
 mines are in operation at Leadhills and Wanlockhead, 
 from which 48,000 tons have been annually extracted ; 
 in the mines at Wanlock the ore contains a considerable 
 proportion of silver, varying from six to twelve ounces 
 in the ton. Among these mountains, gold has been 
 found in veins of quartz and in the sand of the streams at 
 their base ; and in the reign of James V. 300 men were 
 employed for several summers in collecting gold, which 
 they obtained to the value of £100,000. The search was 
 renewed under the superintendence of Sir Bevis Bulmer, 
 master of the mint to Queen Elizabeth, with the con- 
 currence of James VI. ; and particles of gold adhering to 
 pieces of quartz have been since found, the largest of 
 which, weighing nearly five ounces, is in the British 
 Museum. The antimony was discovered in 1*60, but 
 was not wrought till 1793, when a mine was opened 
 at Glendinning, from which 100 tons of the regulus 
 were taken annually, valued at £84 per ton. The 
 ironstone occurs chiefly in masses, and the gypsum 
 in thin veins. Coal is found in abundance, but of a very 
 inferior kind, and is wrought only at Sanquhar and 
 Canonbie. Sandstone of various colours and of good 
 quality for building is extensively quarried, as is lime- 
 stone, of which the principal quarries are in Nithsdale 
 and Annandale ; there are also veins of slate and marble. 
 The annual value of the real property in the county is 
 £319,751, of which £266,547 are returned for lands, 
 £46,132 for houses, £4360 for mines, £1624 for quarries, 
 and £1088 for fisheries. The seats are Drumlanrig 
 Castle, Kinnioimt, Comlongan Castle, Raehills, Spring- 
 kell, Jardine Hall, Maxwelltown, Amisfield, Closeburn 
 Hall, Craigdarroch, Wester Hall, Drumcrieff, Hoddam 
 Castle, Dalswinton, Murraythwaite, Blackwood House, 
 Langholm Lodge, Terregles, Mossknow, and various 
 others. In this county the manufactures are neither 
 numerous nor extensive. Facilities of communication 
 are afforded by good roads, and by the Caledonian rail- 
 way, and the Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle railway : 
 steamers, also, navigate the Solway Firth, affording an 
 easy mode of conveying agricultural produce to Eng- 
 land. There are various remains of antiquity, consist- 
 ing of Druidical circles, British forts, Roman roads, 
 ancient castles, cairns, mounds, and other relics. In 
 the county are some mineral springs, the chief of which 
 are chalybeate ; near Closeburn House is a sulphureous 
 spring issuing from the marshy lands, and in the vici- 
 nity of Moffat are springs of both kinds, the waters of 
 which are extensively used. The county gives the title 
 of Earl to the Marquess of Bute. 
 
 3T
 
 DUN 
 
 D U N B 
 
 DUN, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 4 miles 
 (X. W. by W.) from Montrose ; containing 581 inhabit- 
 ants. This place is supposed by some antiquaries to 
 have derived its name from the family of Dun, who 
 were its ancient proprietors ; and by others, with appa- 
 rently greater probability, from its elevation above the 
 level of the river South Esk, which forms its boundary 
 on the south. The parish is about four miles in length, 
 and of nearly equal breadth, comprising 3480 acres, of 
 which 2600 are arable, 300 meadow and pasture, 550 
 woodland and plantations, and about 100 uncultivated 
 moor. A small part of the lands, called Fort Hill, is 
 divided from the rest by the estuary or basin of Mon- 
 trose. The surface is very irregular ; near the river and 
 the basin it is level, but towards the north rises gradually 
 to a considerable elevation. Within the limits of the 
 parish is a lake called Dun's Dish, covering about forty 
 acres ; it is supplied from numerous springs in the 
 adjacent grounds, and forms a reservoir for the use of 
 various mills. The scenery is enriched by luxuriant 
 woods and thriving plantations on the demesnes of Dun 
 House and Langley Park. 
 
 The SOIL in the vicinity of the basin of Montrose, 
 from the encroachment of which the lands are defended 
 by an embankment, is a loamy clay of great fertility. In 
 the rising grounds it is a deep rich loam, and in other 
 places light and sandy. The crops are oats, barley, 
 wheat, peas, beans, potatoes, and turnips ; the system 
 of agriculture is improved, and the five and six .shift 
 courses of husbandry are generally practised, the former 
 in the upper and the latter in the lower districts. The 
 lands are well drained and inclosed ; the farm-buildings 
 are mostly substantial and commodious. The cattle 
 reared in the parish are mainly of the black Angus 
 breed, resembling the Galloway ; they thrive well, and 
 grow to a great weight. A fishery in the South Esk, in 
 which salmon and trout are plentiful, produces about 
 £100 annually ; and there is a fishery in the sands of 
 the basin of Montrose, chiefly for muscles, and of nearly 
 equal value. Facility of communication is afforded by 
 the Aberdeen railway, the Brechin branch of which 
 commences here. There are also good roads, of which 
 that from Brechin to Montrose passes through the 
 parish. Dun House, a substantial mansion, built in 
 1/30, is now the property of the Marquess of Ailsa, 
 in right of the marchioness, who is daughter of the 
 late John Erskine, Esq. ; it is finely situated on rising 
 ground, is surrounded with old wood, and, having a 
 southern aspect, presents a beautiful object from the 
 opposite side of the South Esk. East of Dun House is 
 Langley Park, the handsome seat of the Cruickshank 
 family. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £6818. Dun is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of 
 Brechin, synod of Angus andMearns, and in the patron- 
 age of the Marchioness of Ailsa ; the minister's stipend 
 is £159, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per 
 annum. The chapel formerly attached to the old man- 
 sion-house of the family of Dun having fallen into a 
 dilapidated state, a church was erected in lieu of it, on a 
 site a short way off, in 1834. The parochial school is 
 well attended ; the master has a salary of £34, with 
 £13 fees, and a house and garden. A savings' bank 
 has been established ; and the poor have the benefit of 
 some money placed in the hands of three of the heritors, 
 who pay interest for it to the kirk-session. 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 DUNBAR, a royal burgh, 
 a market-town, and parish, 
 in the county of Hadding- 
 ton J containing, with the 
 two villages of Eastbarns 
 andWestbarns, 44* 1 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom 3013 are in 
 the burgh, 11 miles (E. by 
 N.) from Haddington, and 
 29 (E. by N.) from Edin- 
 burgh. This place is of re- 
 mote antiquity, and appears 
 to have derived its name 
 from the situation of its castle on a high and rugged 
 rock, forming a conspicuous landmark. The castle was 
 given by Kenneth I., King of Scotland, to an eminent 
 warrior named Bar, to which circumstance some writers 
 erroneously refer the origin of the name ; and in 1072, 
 the castle and lands were conferred by Malcolm upon 
 Cospatrick, Earl of Northumberland, and afterwards 
 Earl of Dunbar, who had taken refuge at his court from 
 the tyranny of William the Conqueror, and whose 
 descendants for many generations made this their chief 
 baronial residence. In 1296, the eighth Earl of Dunbar 
 and March having formed an alliance with England, 
 Edward I. sent Earl Warren to besiege the castle, which 
 had been surrendered by the Countess of Dunbar to the 
 Scots, whose army, assembled at this place, was totally 
 routed by the English at the battle of Dunbar, with great 
 slaughter. After the defeat of his forces at Bannock- 
 burn in 1314, Edward 11., previously to his embarka- 
 tion for Berwick, took shelter in the castle of Dunbar, 
 which, from its great strength and the importance of its 
 situation, was regarded as the key of Scotland, and was 
 consequently exposed to continual assaults during the 
 wars with England. The ninth Earl of Dunbar, to pre- 
 vent its falling into the hands of the English, levelled 
 the castle to the ground, and was compelled by Edward 
 III. to rebuild it at his own expense. In 1337 it was 
 besieged by the Earl of Salisbury, and most resolutely 
 defended by Agnes, Countess of Dunbar, who obliged the 
 English forces to raise the siege. In the year 1435, the 
 castle and the seigniories of Dunbar and March became 
 forfeited to the crown, on the attainder of the tenth 
 earl, and were bestowed by King James I. on the Duke 
 of Albany; and in 1446, the queen dowager of that 
 monarch died in the castle, and was interred at Perth. 
 In 14*5 the Duke of Albany, on his escape from Edin- 
 burgh, landed at this place, and afterwards embarked 
 for France : he soon returned, however, and regained 
 possession of his castle; but in 1483 was again com- 
 pelled to abandon it to the English, by whom it was a 
 few years subsequently given up to James III. In 
 148S an act of the Scottish parliament was passed for 
 the demolition of this ancient fortress, but the measure 
 was not carried into execution. 
 
 Mary, Queen of Scots, took refuge in the castle after 
 the murder of David Rizzio, in 1565, and subsequently 
 appointed the Earl of Bothwell its governor. She also 
 passed six days here, together with her court, in a tour 
 along the coast in the following year ; and upon the 
 murder of Darnley in 1567, Bothwell, attended by 1000 
 horsemen, arrested the queen on her progress to Stir- 
 ling, and carried her and her retinue by force to Dunbar, 
 where he detained her prisoner for twelve days. Soon
 
 D U N B 
 
 D U N B 
 
 after her marriage with Bothwell, she remained here for 
 some time, while levying forces from Lothian and the 
 Merse against the people who had taken arms to oppose 
 the earl ; and marching with these to Carberry Hill, she 
 there joined the hostile party, and, abandoning Both- 
 well, the castle was given up by his dependents to the 
 Earl of Murray, who had been appointed regent of 
 Scotland, and was soon demolished. The site of the 
 castle now belongs to the Earl of Lauderdale, who is a 
 descendant of the Earls of March. In 1650, Dunbar 
 was the scene of a battle in which Leslie was defeated 
 by Oliver Cromwell with great slaughter, at Downhill ; 
 and iu 17-15, Sir John Cope landed his forces at this 
 place, whence, being joined by two regiments of dragoons, 
 he marched towards Edinburgh, and was totally routed 
 at the battle of Prestonpans. In 1779, the inhabitants 
 were kept in a state of alarm by the appearance of the 
 notorious Paul Jones with a fleet of five ships, which 
 lay off the port for several days ; and in 17S1, Captain 
 Fall, an American pirate, attempted to carry off a vessel 
 which was in the mouth of the harbour, but he was 
 beaten off after the exchange of a few shots by the in- 
 habitants, and abandoned his enterprise. To defend the 
 town from similar attacks, a battery of sixteen guns 
 was erected in the same year ; and during the appre- 
 hension of an invasion by the French, who were expected 
 to make a descent at Belhaven bay, an encampment was 
 formed on the common of Westbarns, under the com- 
 mand of General Don. Soon after, barracks were erected 
 to the west of the castle for 1200 infantry, and at Bel- 
 haven for 300 cavalry ; and a volunteer corps and a troop 
 ^ A of yeomanry were raised in the neighbourhood. 
 
 The TOWN owes its origin to the castle, round which 
 it arose at a very early period : it is advantageously 
 situated on the southern shore of the Firth of Forth, and 
 the houses are neatly built, but the place is not distin- 
 guished by any architectural features of importance. 
 Belhaven, a village and watering-place, is a kind of sub- 
 urb. A library is supported by subscription, forming an 
 extensive collection, and a reading-room is well provided 
 with periodicals ; there is also a mechanics' institution, 
 with a good library attached. Assembly-rooms have 
 been built by subscription, but they are not eligibly situ- 
 ated. The chief trade of the port is in herrings, which 
 are taken off the coast, and generally not less than 300 
 boats are employed at this station. White-fish of all 
 kinds, and lobsters in abundance, are caught : great 
 quantities of cod are cured and forwarded to the London 
 market, and haddocks are smoked principally for Glas- 
 gow and Edinburgh ; the lobsters are preserved in pits 
 and sent chiefly to London. A very considerable trade 
 is carried on in grain, which is raised in the parish and 
 adjacent district to a great extent, and of very superior 
 quality ; and there is a good foreign trade. Flax-mills 
 were established at Westbarns in 179'2, and a cotton- 
 factory at Belhaven iu 1815, but neither concern has 
 been attended with success ; a distillery also, and some 
 extensive soap-works, were carried on, but have been 
 some years discontinued. There are two foundries for 
 the manufacture of machinery of all kinds, one of which 
 is celebrated for its steam-engines. The number of ves- 
 sels engaged in the foreign trade that entered inwards 
 iu 1834 was twenty-three, of the aggregate burthen of 
 2310 tons, and having 134 men; and the amount of 
 duties paid at the custom-house was £'2942. 15. The 
 323 
 
 coasting-trade is also considerable : the number of ves- 
 sels that entered inwards in the same year was 244, of 
 the aggregate burthen of 11,919 tons, with 762 men; 
 and of vessels which cleared outwards, 140, of 7081 tons, 
 and 478 men. Of foreign grain imported into Dunbar 
 in the year the quantity was 203| quarters of wheat, 
 and 3346 quarters of barley ; of wheat imported coast- 
 wise 342 quarters, and of barley 2007 quarters. The 
 wheat exported coastwise was 3608 quarters, of barley 
 3936 quarters, of oats 6067 quarters, of peas and beans 
 1981 quarters, of malt 359 bushels, and of wheaten flour 
 231 sacks. The quantity of coal imported at Dunbar 
 and its several creeks during the same year was 9490 
 tons of Scotch coal, of English 763 tons, and of English 
 cinders 31 tons ; the whisky amounted to 91,000 gallons. 
 In the year 1849 the number of registered vessels was 
 sixteen, having a tonnage of 1018. An extensive and 
 excellent harbour has been lately opened, which, with the 
 old harbour, is safe and commodious, and accessible to 
 vessels of above 300 tons ; it has nine feet depth of water 
 at neap, and eighteen feet at spring tides. The entrance 
 to the old harbour is in some degree obstructed by 
 rugged rocks. Its eastern pier was built or repaired in 
 the time of Cromwell by a parliamentary grant of £300, 
 and in 1785 the convention of royal burghs voted £600 
 for its further improvement. An act of parliament was 
 passed in 1848 for the amendment and continuance of 
 the burgh customs, and water, shore, and harbour rates 
 of the burgh, and for other purposes, including the supply 
 of water to the town and harbour. The post has a good 
 delivery ; the North-British railway passes close by the 
 town, and facility of intercourse with the neighbouring 
 towns is likewise afforded by excellent roads, of which 
 the London road passes for more than seven miles 
 through the parish, parallel with the railway. Packets, 
 also, sail regularly for Leith and London. The market, 
 on Tuesday, is amply supplied with grain from the sur- 
 rounding country, and from the highlands of the county 
 of Berwick. Fairs for cattle and all sorts of ware are 
 held at Whitsuntide and Martinmas (O. S.). 
 
 Dunbar was created a free burgh by David II., with 
 limits co-extensive with the earldom of March ; and its 
 various privileges and immunities were confirmed by 
 succeeding sovereigns, especially by charters of Mary, 
 Queen of Scots, in 1555 and 1557, and of James VI., 
 dated 1603 and 1618. By these charters the govern- 
 ment was vested in a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, 
 and council of fifteen burgesses ; four of the burgesses 
 went out annually, but were capable of re-election, and 
 by the new council then formed the magistrates were 
 appointed. The corporation, however, is now chosen 
 under the authority of the act of the 3rd and 4th of 
 William IV., and consists of a provost, three bailies, a 
 treasurer, and fifteen councillors. The magistrates' juris- 
 diction extends over the whole of the royalty, and they 
 have the appointment of a town- clerk, chamberlain, pro- 
 curator-fiscal, superintendent of police, and two burgh 
 schoolmasters. They hold civil and criminal courts ; in 
 the former the causes are of very trifling amount, and in 
 the latter the charges extend only to petty misdemeanors. 
 A sheriff's court for the recovery of small debts has in a 
 great measure superseded the bailies' civil court. The 
 elective franchise clearly appears to have been exercised 
 in 1469, and most probably was possessed at a much 
 earlier period. Dunbar returned a member to the Scot- 
 
 2 T 2
 
 D UN B 
 
 D U NB 
 
 tish parliament till the Union, since which period it has 
 united with Haddington, North Berwick, Jedburgh, and 
 Lauder, in returning one representative to the imperial 
 parliament. The right of election is, under the Reform 
 act, vested in the resident £10 householders ; the number 
 of registered electors is about 145. The gaol is an in- 
 convenient edifice containing two rooms, and only fit for 
 temporary confinement for petty misdemeanors ; all 
 persons charged with more serious ofiFences are commit- 
 ted to the county gaol at Haddington. 
 
 The PARISH is situated in a richly- cultivated district, 
 regarded as the finest for corn in the whole country. It 
 is nearly eight miles in length from east to west, extend- 
 ing along the shores of the Firth of Forth, and some- 
 thing more than a mile and a half in breadth. The 
 surface is varied with hills and dales, the ground rising 
 gently from the sea to the Lammermoor heights ; the 
 chief eminences are. Brunt hill, which has an elevation 
 of 700, and Downhill, which rises to the height of 500 
 feet above the level of the sea, and is memorable as the 
 site of Leslie's encampment previous to the defeat of his 
 forces by Cromwell. The scenery is pleasingly varied, 
 but destitute of wood, with the exception of some plan- 
 tations on the demesnes of the principal seats. From 
 the summit of the hills are obtained extensive and inter- 
 esting views of numerous prominent objects, among 
 which St. .\bb's Head, Traprain law, the Bass rock, the 
 isle of May, and in good weather the coast of Fife, are 
 conspicuous, and to which the beautiful woods of Tyn- 
 ninghame form a fine contrast. The Belton water, 
 taking its name from the ancient parish in which it 
 rises, joins the sea a little below Belhaven ; the Broxburn 
 falls into the sea at Broxmouth Park, and the Dryburn 
 skirts the parish for some distance on the east. In gene- 
 ral the soil is a rich brown loam ; the system of agricul- 
 ture is highly improved, and the whole of the parish, 
 estimated at 7 197 acres, is in the best state of cultivation, 
 producing grain of every sort, beans, peas, and turnips, 
 in the cultivation of which last all kinds of foreign ma- 
 nure are applied with success. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £'27,701. The geology is highly 
 interesting, and stone is largely quarried. Dunbar House, 
 the seat of the Earl of Lauderdale, is within the park of 
 the old castle ; it is a spacious mansion with a front 
 towards the sea, from which it is a commanding object. 
 Broxmouth Park, the seat of the Dowager Duchess of 
 Roxburghe, is a handsome residence of modern style, 
 beautifully situated in a demesne enriched with stately 
 timber and thriving plantations, and comprehending 
 much varied scenery. Lochend House is an elegant man- 
 sion in the later English style, containing several fine 
 apartments, and pleasantly seated in a tastefully-disposed 
 and well-cultivated demesne. Belton House is romanti- 
 cally situated in a deep and winding glen, watered by a 
 gently flowing stream, and is embosomed in woods : 
 near it are some noble silver-firs more than two centuries 
 old, and a beech-tree of remarkably luxuriant growth, 
 measuring nearly nineteen feet in girth at a height of 
 three feet from the ground. Nineu-ar House is also beau- 
 tifully situated, on a gentle eminence richly wooded, and 
 commanding an extensive view of the circumjacent 
 country, Belhaven bay, and the Tynninghame woods. 
 
 The parish was anciently included within the dioce.^e 
 of Lindisfarne, and, together with the other portions of 
 Lothian, was given up to the king of Scotland In 1020, 
 3-24 
 
 and annexed to the bishopric of St. Andrew's. At that 
 time it was more extensive than at present, and, in ad- 
 dition to the mother church, comprehended the chapel- 
 ries of Pinkterton, Heatherwic, Whittingham, Penshiel, 
 Stenton, and Spott. Patrick, the tenth Earl of Dunbar, 
 in 134'2 made the parochial church collegiate for a dean, 
 an arch-priest, and eighteen canons, for whose support 
 he assigned the income of the chapelries, which were 
 subsequently converted into churches dependent on that 
 of Dunbar as prebends in the college. The parish is now 
 in the presbytery of Dunbar, synod of Lothian and 
 Tweeddale : patron, the Duke of Roxburghe. The sti- 
 pend of the incumbent is £331, exclusively of the manse 
 and glebe. Dunbar collegiate church, a handsome cru- 
 ciform structure partly in the Norman and early English 
 styles, was taken down in 1S19, and the present church 
 was built, and opened for divine service on the 20th of 
 April, 1821 ; it is conveniently situated, and contains 
 1800 sittings. There is a costly monument of composi- 
 tion from Italy erected to the memory of George Home 
 of Manderston, lord high treasurer of Scotland, whom 
 James VI. in 1605 created Earl of Dunbar, and who 
 died at Whitehall in 1611, and was interred in the old 
 church, on the site of which the present church was 
 built. He is represented in a kneeling posture, with a 
 book open before him, and on each side are two armed 
 knights finely sculptured, with various emblematical 
 devices. There are places of worship for the United 
 Presbyterian Synod and Wesleyans, and at Belhaven 
 one for members of the Free Church. Two schools have 
 been founded by the corporation ; the master of the 
 grammar school has a salary of £42, with a house and 
 garden, and the master of the mathematical school has 
 £20, with a house, both sums paid by the corporation. 
 There are also two parochial schools, one at Westbarns, 
 the master of which has a salary of £34, with a house 
 and garden, and one at Eastbarns, the master of which 
 receives only a single chalder, and the interest of £100 
 bequeathed by William Hume, Esq., and of £50 by the 
 Rev. George Bruce, minister of the parish. 
 
 The ruins of the ancient castle, which was built upon 
 a lofty rock, and connected with a battery on the ad- 
 joining land, are scarcely sufficient to give any idea of 
 its former grandeur. A monastery for Red Friars was 
 founded in 1218 by Patrick, sixth Earl of Dunbar and 
 March, of which some slight vestiges are still remaining 
 in a spot called the Friars' Croft : a monastery of Car- 
 melites, or White Friars, was founded in 1263, by the 
 seventh earl ; and there was a Maison Dieu at the east 
 end of the town, of which the founder and the history 
 are alike unknown. In digging the site of the reservoir 
 from which the town is supplied with water, some Roman 
 medals were found, inscribed with the legend Judea Cap- 
 tiva. On a sequestered spot in the grounds of Brox- 
 mouth House is a tombstone with the name of Sir 
 William Douglas, a colonel in the royalist army, in rude 
 characters ; and in the park is an elevated mound on 
 which Cromwell is said to have reconnoitred the forces 
 of Leslie previously to the battle of Downhill, and from 
 which he saw the enemy descending from their strong- 
 hold, a movement that caused his well-known exclama- 
 tion, " The Lord has delivered them into our hands". 
 Columba Dunbar, who was dean of the collegiate church, 
 and subsequently translated to the see of Moray in 1411 ; 
 Thomas Hay, also dean of Dunbar, and in 1532 appointed
 
 D UN B 
 
 D UNB 
 
 a senator of the College of Justice ; and Dr. Andrew Wood, 
 rector of Dunbar, in 1676 promoted to the bishopric of 
 the Isles, and afterwards to the see of Caithness, which 
 he held till the Revolution, are among the distinguished 
 characters connected with the place. 
 ^ DUNBARNY, a parish, in the county of Perth, 
 
 Sh miles (S.) from Perth ; containing, with the villages 
 of Bridge-of-Earn and Kintillo, 1 104 inhabitants. The 
 name of this place is variously written in old records, 
 but generally Dunherny. It is supposed to be a com- 
 pound of two Celtic terms, dun, a hill, and beam, a 
 breach or fissure, and to have been apphed to the parish 
 in consequence of the church being situate on the estate 
 of Dunbarny, which is marked by a fissure in a ridge of 
 hills. The church then stood a mile westward of the 
 bridge of Earn ; but this site, which was near the ex- 
 tremity of the parish, being found very inconvenient, it 
 became necessary to build a new church on another 
 site in 1684, though the ancient buryiug-ground is still 
 used. Kirk-Pottie church, about three miles south from 
 the bridge, and the chapel of Moncrieffe, about 200 or 
 300 yards south-east from the present mansion of the 
 name, were both appendages to the church of Dunbarny ; 
 but the lands of the former place, with some others, 
 were in the year 1652 annexed ecclesiastically, and after- 
 wards civilly, to the parish of Dron, on account of their 
 contiguity ; and the ruins of the church have been swept 
 away within the last few years. The area comprehended 
 within the walls of Moncrieffe chapel, which are still 
 standing embosomed in thick wood, has long been used 
 as the burying-place of the ancient family of Moncrieffe. 
 The forest of Black Earnside, formerly e.\tending along 
 the banks of the river Earn, was celebrated for the ad- 
 ventures of Sir William Wallace, especially in a san- 
 guinary encounter there maintained with the English. 
 At Kilgraston, in the parish, the Covenanters are said to 
 have pitched their camp in 1645, before the battle of 
 Kilsyth. 
 
 The PARISH is situated in the most beautiful part of 
 Strathearn, and bounded on the north partly by the pa- 
 rish of Perth. It is about four miles in extreme length 
 from east to west, and one mile and a quarter in average 
 breadth, comprising 3236 acres, of which 2640 are under 
 culture, 419 wood, and the remainder water, roads, and 
 waste. The river Earn passes through it in a winding 
 course from west to east, and the surface is generally 
 level, the chief exception being the lofty and striking 
 elevation called Moncrieffe or Moredun hill, which rises 
 756 feet above the sea, and commands from its summit 
 one of the most magnificent views in Scotland. The 
 prospect comprehends the Carse of Gowrie ; the Firth 
 of Tay, with the town of Dundee ; the beautifully rich 
 and well-wooded vale of Strathearn, ornamented with 
 the meanderings of the river Earn, and with many supe- 
 rior mansions ; the picturesque forms of the Ochils ; 
 and the fine eminences of Monteith. On the north and 
 west, the mountains of Ben-Voirlich, Benmore, and 
 others, are finely contrasted with the nearer scenery of 
 Perth, the river Tay, KinnouU hill, and Kinfauns Castle ; 
 and beyond Crieff appears the obelisk raised to the me- 
 mory of Sir David Baird on the hill of Tom-a-chastel, 
 in the parish of Monivaird, with that of Lord Melville, 
 near Comrie. The scenery is much indebted for its 
 general beauty to the Earn, though the stream is here 
 far less clear than in many other parts, chiefly on ac- 
 325 
 
 count of the mossy soil through which it passes. It 
 affords trout, whitling (a small species of sea-trout), 
 pike, and salmon, the last, however, in smaller quantities 
 than formerly. 
 
 The SOIL is exceedingly various, and comprises almost 
 every description, from the richest loam to the poorest 
 clay. On the south side of the river the lands are very 
 flat, and consist of strong wet clay ; on the north they 
 are loamy ; and towards the western district a red, tilly, 
 impervious earth is prevalent. Near Bridge-of-Earn, 
 at some depth beneath the surface, is a stratum of moss 
 of considerable thickness, extending for several hundred 
 yards, and which so impregnates all the water near the 
 village as to render it unfit for culinary purposes : in 
 this mossy bed large pieces of timber are found, many of 
 which present curious specimens of petrifaction. Wheat, 
 oats, barley, and the usual green crops are raised ; the 
 cultivation of potatoes, especially the Perthshire red kind, 
 occupies a large proportion of the ground, and about 
 6000 bolls are yearly sent to L(mdon and Newcastle. 
 The rocks are mostly whinstone and sandstone of various 
 kinds, of which several quarries are in operation, and 
 the strata exhibit specimens of barytes, jasper, agate, 
 chlorite, and a variety of other minerals. The district 
 has made important advances in agriculture, and is also 
 especially worthy of notice for the rapid increase of its 
 plantations, comprehending all kinds of trees, which now 
 cover the hill of Moncrieffe, formerly overgrown with 
 heath and furze, and enrich the vale of Strathearn in 
 every direction. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £7605. 
 
 The house of Moncrieffe, built in 1679, is the residence 
 of the ancient family of that name, descended from 
 Ramerus de Moncrieffe, who was keeper of the wardrobe 
 to Alexander I. Its grounds are thickly planted with 
 the usual trees, interspersed with horse-chesnut, silver 
 and spruce firs, lime, plane, and walnut ; and among 
 many other rare plants, the garden contains several from 
 the Cape of Good Hope and New South Wales. Other 
 mansions are, Pitkeathly, in the grounds of which is a 
 tulip-tree above a century old, which still regularly 
 flowers ; and Kilgraston, a spacious structure in the 
 Grecian style, standing in a large well- wooded park, and 
 containing a valuable collection of pictures, among which 
 is one of the finest pieces of Guercino, representing Louis 
 IX. renouncing the crown for a monastic life. There is 
 also the house of Ballendrick, a convenient residence 
 with excellent out-buildings. A village named Dunbarny 
 formerly existed on the road leading from the property 
 of that name to Bridge-of-Earn ; but the only villages 
 now comprehended in the parish are those of Bridge-of- 
 Earn and Kintillo, with a cluster of houses on the Pit- 
 keathly property, and a number of elegant cottages lately 
 erected at Craigend, on the Edinburgh road, by the 
 Moncrieffe family. Near Bridge-of-Earn and Kintillo is 
 a station of the Perth section of the Edinburgh, Perth, 
 and Dundee railway. 
 
 With regard to its ecclesiastical affairs, the parish is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Perth, synod of 
 Perth and Stirling, and in the patronage of Sir Thomas 
 Moncrieffe, Bart. The minister's stipend is £1/9, with 
 a manse, a vicarage tithe of forty-four and a-third loads 
 of coal, and a glebe valued at £19 per annum. The 
 church erected in 1684 stood a few yards west of the 
 present structure, which was built in the year I787 : the
 
 D UN B 
 
 D UNB 
 
 churchyard, partly formed in 1821, and finished some 
 years afterwards, is altogether artificial, being composed 
 of 2000 cart-loads of sand brought from the banks of 
 the river. The members of the Free Church have a place 
 of worship and a school. The parochial school affords 
 mstruction in the ordinary branches ; the master has a 
 salary of £34, with about £25 fees, and also receives, 
 for teaching poor children, the interest of 500 merks left 
 in 1677 by the Rev. Robert Young, of £5 left in 1743 
 by John Craigie, Esq., and of £108 left in 1820 by the 
 Rev. James Beatson. The late Sir David Moncrieffe 
 bequeathed a sum, as a prize, to the best classical scholar; 
 and there are two bursaries in the patronage of the 
 family, one for St. Mary's and the other for St. Salvator's 
 College, St. Andrew's. Here is a public library com- 
 prising about 300 volumes. At a small distance from 
 Moncrieffe House are the remains of a Druidical temple, 
 and on the summit of the hill of that name is a circular 
 fosse, sixteen yards in diameter, in the centre of which 
 stood Carnac fort, formerly belonging to the Picts. 
 Near Old Kilgraston is a bulky Spanish-chesnut tree, of 
 thick foliage, said to have been planted on the day when 
 Perth capitulated to Oliver Cromwell. 
 
 DUNBEATH, a hamlet, in the parish of Latheron, 
 county of Caithness, 20 miles (S. W.) from Wick ; 
 containing 40 inhabitants. It is situated on the banks 
 of the river Dunbeath, which here discharges itself into 
 the North Sea ; and is an excellent fishing-station. An 
 ancient castle stands on a narrow neck of land, impend- 
 ing on one side over the sea, and on the other over a 
 deep chasm into which the tide flows. Near the ham- 
 let is an entire Picts' house, called the Bourg of Dun- 
 beath. 
 
 DUNBLANE, an ancient 
 episcopal town, a parish, and 
 ■ the seat of a presbytery, in 
 , the county of Perth ; con- 
 taining, with the village of 
 Kinbuck, 3361 inhabitants, 
 of whom 1911 are in the 
 town, 5 miles (N.) from Stir- 
 ling, 28 (S. W.) from Perth, 
 and 4li (W. N. W.) from 
 Edinburgh. This place de- 
 rives its name from an 
 which was an 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 emmence on 
 
 ancient convent of Culdces founded by St. Blaan in the 
 reign of Kenneth HI., and subsequently erected into a 
 bishopric by David I., who built the cathedral church 
 about the year 1142. The diocese comprised part of the 
 counties of Perth and Stirling, and continued to flourish 
 under a succession of twenty-five prelates till the Refor- 
 mation, when its revenues were valued at £315 in money, 
 exclusively of certain payments in wheat and other grain. 
 Among the Protestant bishops who presided over the see 
 after that period, was the meek and pious Leighton, who 
 was consecrated in 1662, and in 1669 was translated to 
 the arehiepiscopal see of Glasgow, in which he continued 
 till 1675. At his death he bequeathed his valuable 
 library for the use of the clergy of the diocese of Dun- 
 blane ; and he has left behind him a series of works 
 which display the sound learning he possessed, the 
 fervour of his piety, and the persuasive eloquence of his 
 style. In 1715, a sanguinary battle took place on the 
 plains of Sheriff Muir, to the north-east of the town, 
 326 
 
 between the forces under the command of the Duke of 
 Argyll and those of the Pretender led by the Earl of 
 Mar, in which both parties claimed the victory. 
 
 The TOWN is pleasantly situated on the road from 
 Stirling to Perth, and on the east bank of the river Allan, 
 over which is an old narrow bridge. It has a station of 
 the Scottish Central railway. There are still some slight 
 remains of the episcopal palace to the south of the 
 cathedral, on the margin of the river, and that part of the 
 town yet retains some faint resemblance to its ancient 
 character. The building erected for the library of Arch- 
 bishop Leighton was endowed under his will with £300 
 for keeping it in repair and as a salary for the librarian, 
 and has been lately fitted up by subscription as a public 
 reading-room ; the library has at various times received 
 additions by bequests and donations, and the annual 
 subscription to it is very moderate. There are two other 
 libraries, chiefly of religious books, supported by sub- 
 scription. Close to the town is a neat lodge, to which 
 a supply of mineral water is brought during the summer 
 months from a spring called the Well of Dunblane, or 
 Cromlix, about two miles distant. It was proposed to 
 bring the water into the town by pipes from the spring ; 
 but this purpose not being carried into effect, a village 
 has been built near the spot, called Bridge-of-Allan, 
 which is described under its own head. The inhabitants 
 are principally engaged in the woollen manufacture, of 
 which there are three establishments in the parish ; one 
 of them in the town, in which 215 persons are employed ; 
 one in the small village of Kinbuck, and the third at the 
 mill of Keir, each of the two latter affording occupation 
 to about forty persons. A considerable number in the 
 town, likewise, are employed in hand-loom weaving. 
 There is a general post-office. Fairs are held on the first 
 Wednesday in March, the first Tuesday after the 26th 
 of May, on the 21st of August, and the first Tuesday in 
 November. The town, being within the barony of 
 Cromlix, was formerly governed by a bailie, appointed 
 by the Earl of Kiunoull as superior, and who held courts 
 in a house a little eastward of the cathedral. The old 
 gaol has been taken down ; and a new prison, containing 
 eight cells and a house for the gaoler, has been erected 
 for the western district of the county, upon the site once 
 occupied by the residence of Viscount Strathallan. 
 
 The PARISH, which is situated at the western extre- 
 mity of the Ochil range, is about nine miles in length, 
 and nearly six in breadth. A considerable part consists 
 of arable laud, but the greater portion is moor, heath, 
 and pasture. The surface is much diversified with hills 
 of various elevation, whose declivities slope gradually 
 towards Strathallan, a fertile vale through which the 
 river Allan flows with a rapid current, between banks in 
 some parts steep and richly wooded, and pursues a 
 winding course till it falls into the Forth near Stirling 
 bridge. The rivulet Ardoch intersects the western part 
 of the parish, and in both streams are found trout of 
 good quality. The soil is various ; in some parts fertile, 
 in others affording only indifferent pasture for sheep and 
 black-cattle : the farms are generally of small extent, 
 the buildings substantial and commodious, and a con- 
 siderable portion of waste land has been brought into 
 cultivation. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £14,300. The substratum is mostly red sand- 
 stone ; there are pits of shell marl, and lime is obtained 
 with facility at the distance of a few miles, by the river
 
 D U N B 
 
 DUN B 
 
 Forth, and has been plentifully applied to the improve- 
 ment of the land. Kilbryde Castle, the seat of Sir James 
 Campbell, of Aberuchill, Bart., is an ancient structure 
 finely situated ; and Kippendavie a handsome building 
 of modern erection. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 hounds of the presbytery of Dunblane, synod of Perth 
 and Stirling. The minister's stipend is £289, with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum ; patron, 
 the Crown. Dunblane church is the choir of the ancient 
 cathedral, the remainder of which is in ruins. The whole 
 was originally a venerable structure combining elegant 
 details of the Norman, and early and decorated English 
 .styles, and measures '216 feet in length and fifty-eight 
 feet in breadth within the walls, which rise to the height 
 of fifty feet, and are crowned with battlements. The 
 tower, 1'2S feet in height, appears to be of later date 
 than the rest of the cathedral in the two uppermost 
 stories ; but the three lower of the five stories of which 
 the tower consists seem to be older than the cathedral, 
 and to have been erected by the ancient Culdees. The 
 choir is almost entire ; the lofty vaulted roof is in good 
 preservation, and the windows, which vvere of beautiful 
 design, were restored in 1819, and the whole of the in- 
 terior repaired. The prebendal stalls, several of which 
 are elaborately carved, are preserved in the avenues 
 leading into the choir, which contains about 500 sittings. 
 The Episcopalians, the members of the Free Church, and 
 the United Presbyterian Synod have places of worship. 
 The parochial school is conducted by a master who has 
 a salary of £34, with £10. 10. per annum granted by the 
 crown from the church lands ; also a house and garden, 
 and fees averaging about £50, out of which he pays an 
 assistant. There are several other schools in the parish, 
 including two partly supported by subscription. Arch- 
 bishop Leighton is the most remarkable name connected 
 with Dunblane : he bequeathed a sum of money to the 
 poor of the parish ; and a sequestered walk near the 
 town, to which the prelate frequently resorted, is still 
 called the Bishop's Walk. Dunblane gives the title of 
 Viscount to the Duke of Leeds. 
 
 ' DUNBOG, a parish, in the district of Cupar, county 
 of Fife, 4 miles (E. by S.) from Newburgh ; containing 
 219 inhabitants. This place derives its name, of Celtic 
 origin, and signifying " the bog of the hill ", from the 
 former marshy nature of the grounds at the base of the hill 
 of Dunmore, which extends into the parish. A portion 
 of the lands anciently formed part of the barony of BaUn- 
 briech, the property of the Rothes family, from whom it 
 passed into the possession of Lord Home, whose descend- 
 ant, in the reign of James IV., sold the lands of Dunbog 
 to David Bethune, of Creich, in whose family they re- 
 mained till the middle of the seventeenth century. In 
 1694 the estate was sold to Major Balfour of Starr, by 
 whom it was forfeited in the rebellion of 1715 ; it was, 
 however, restored to his son, from whom it was pur- 
 chased in 1/66 by the ancestor of the Earl of Zetland, 
 its present proprietor. The parish is about four miles 
 in length, and varies from half a mile to one mile and a 
 half in breadth ; comprising 2130 acres, of which 1800 
 are arable, 300 hill-pasture, and thirty woodland and 
 plantations. Its surface is broken by two continuous 
 chains of hills, cvtending in a nearly parallel direction, 
 and inclosing between them a beautiful vale of luxuriant 
 fertility ; the greatest elevation of the hills, however, 
 327 
 
 does not exceed 500 feet above the sea. The northern 
 chain, which is a continuation of the hill of Dunmore, 
 now called Norman's Law, is cultivated from the base 
 to the summit, and commands an extensive and diver- 
 sified view of the surrounding country, embracing the 
 windings of the river Tay till it disappears behind 
 the projection of the hill of Kinnoull, the rich valley 
 of the Earn, the Carse of Gowrie, and, to the east, the 
 town of Dundee, and the estuary of the Tay at its influx 
 into the German Ocean. Towards the north appears 
 the range of the Sidlaw hills, with the Grampians in 
 the distance towering above them in majestic grandeur. 
 The southern chain of hills is barren and uncultivated ; 
 some few spots have by great perseverance been ren- 
 dered productive, and are in tillage, but from the want 
 of wood and plantations, the general appearance is 
 dreary and unpromising. The scenery of the lower 
 lands of the parish has been much improved by the 
 joint exertions of the proprietors in reclaiming the large 
 tracts of bog and marsh which formerly abounded, and 
 which are now in a state of high cultivation, and pro- 
 duce abundant crops. The river Tay washes a small 
 portion of the parish. 
 
 In the valley the soil is a rich black loam ; in other 
 parts it is more of a clay, and towards the east light 
 and dry. The system of agriculture is in a greatly 
 improved state, and the six-shift rotation plan of hus- 
 bandry is generally practised ; the crops are barley, 
 oats, wheat, potatoes, and turnips. Little attention is 
 paid to the rearing of cattle or sheep ; of the latter the 
 few that are fed in the parish are of the Cheviot breed, 
 and the cattle are mostly of a mixed sort. Great 
 advances have been made in draining, but the lands 
 are not inclosed, and the want of fences is seriously 
 felt. The substratum is principally whinstone, and on 
 the summits of the hills are found boulders of granite ; 
 in some parts of the valley the whinstone occasionally 
 rises to the surface, and in the best cultivated and 
 richest land are spots comparatively barren. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £2944. The 
 mansion of Dunbog, the property of Lord Zetland, and 
 formerly a residence of Cardinal Beaton, by whom it is 
 supposed to have been built, stands on the site of a 
 religious house called the Preceptory of Gadvan : this 
 was occupied as a cell to the abbey of Balmerino by a 
 few monks of that establishment, who employed them- 
 selves in the cultivation of the adjoining lands, which, 
 with the exception of a small portion now included in 
 the glebe, are laid out in garden and pleasure-grounds. 
 Collairney, for many centuries the property of the Bar- 
 clay family, was purchased by the late Dr. Balfour of 
 Fernie : the castle, formerly the baronial residence of the 
 Barclays, is now a ruin consisting only of one of the 
 towers, containing some small apartments with roofs 
 divided into compartments, and emblazoned with the 
 arms of various members of that family. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally the parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, synod of 
 Fife, and in the gift of the Crown ; the minister's stipend 
 is £204, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £8. 15. per 
 annum. Dunbog church, situated nearly in the centre 
 of the parish, was erected in 1803, and is a neat and 
 well-arranged edifice adapted for a congregation of 200 
 persons. The parochial school affords a liberal course 
 of instruction ; the master has a salary of £34, with £15 
 fees, and a house and garden.
 
 DU ND 
 
 D U ND 
 
 DUNCANSBAY, a township, in the parish of Canis- 
 BAY, county of Caithness, 9 miles (N. by E.) from 
 Keiss ; containing 302 inhabitants. This place, said to 
 be the Beriibiiim of Ptolemy, is a beautiful promontory, 
 forming the north-east corner of the island of Great 
 Britain, of a circular shape, and about two miles in cir- 
 cumference. Towards the sea, which encompasses two- 
 thirds of the Head, it is one continued precipice ; and 
 on the land side is a deep glen or ravine, over which a 
 small bridge is thrown. The Stacks of Duncansbay 
 are pyramidical pillars of naked freestone rock, rearing 
 their fantastic summits to a considerable altitude, like 
 huge spires of an old cathedral ; and are frequented by 
 innumerable sea-fowl. On the highest part of the Head 
 are the remains of an ancient watch-tower, whence is a 
 prospect the most noble and extensive that can be ima- 
 gined, embracing the whole Pentland Firth, the Orkney 
 islands, the North Sea, the INIoray Firth, and the moun- 
 tains of Banff, Aberdeen, and Elgin. The promontory 
 is covered with excellent pasturage for sheep, intermixed 
 with short heath. Here was formerly a chapel dedicated 
 to the Virgin Mary ; the site is still known by the name 
 of Lady-Kirk. 
 
 DUNCOW, a village, in the parish of Kirkmahoe, 
 county of Dumfries, l^ mile (N.) from Kirkmahoe ; 
 containing 1'21 inhabitants. It is seated between the 
 Nith and Lochar rivers, and on a small stream, bearing 
 its own name, that falls into the former a short distance 
 from the village of Kirkmahoe. The barony of Duncow 
 once belonged to the family of Cumin, but was forfeited 
 by them on the accession of Bruce, and bestowed upon 
 the Boyds ; it subsequently passed to the Maxwell fa- 
 mily of Nithsdale, and remained with the Maxwells until 
 about fifty or sixty years ago, when it was divided 
 among various purchasers. The village is one of five, 
 and the largest, in the parish. At Duncow there has 
 lately been erected a manufactory for coarse woollen- 
 cloth, worked both by water and steam. One of the 
 parochial schools is situated here ; the master has a 
 free-rent dwelling, and besides his salary and fees, an 
 annual payment of £5, arising from a bequest by the 
 late Mr. Allen, of Newlands, for teaching fatherless 
 children. 
 
 DUNCRIVIE, a village, in the parish of Arngask, 
 county of Kinross, 1 mile (S. W.) from Arngask ; con- 
 'taining 106 inhabitants. This village is pleasantly situ- 
 ated on the road from Kinross to Perth, upon rising 
 ground, near the southern extremity of the parish. It 
 contains a school. 
 
 ^5^<^^S^®^^JSj^ '^ DUNDEE, a royal burgh, 
 
 ■^^^y^J?J»^P.^ a sea-port town, and parish, in 
 
 \V^\. the county of Forfar; con- 
 
 ^^Kv® taining. with part of the vil- 
 
 ^^.'^>i»^ 'age of Lochee, 6'2,79-l inha- 
 
 i^M bitants, of whom 60,553 are 
 
 tSyW within the burgh, 14 miles 
 
 ri^lv (S. by W.) from Forfar, and 
 
 ^l^i^^^ (N. by E.) from Edin- 
 
 4^^w^ burgh. This place appears 
 
 *-'"'' to have derived its name, in 
 
 „ , . ^ ancient records written Don- 
 
 Seal and Arms. ^^^,_ ^^^ -^ ^ ^j^^^^^^ ^^ q,,^^^^ 
 
 Mary Donum Dei, from the erection of the church in the 
 twelfth century by David, Earl of Huntingdon, brother 
 of King William the Lion, on his landing here in 
 398 
 
 safety after a severe storm, on his return from the 
 Holy Land, whither, with 500 of his countrymen, he had 
 accompanied Richard Ccsur de Lion, King of England, 
 in his third crusade. In fulfilment of his vow to grant 
 to him the first ground on which he should land on his 
 return, the Scottish monarch gave his brother the site 
 now occupied by Dundee ; and the earl, in gratitude for 
 his preservation from shipwreck, erected a spacious 
 church, around which subsequently arose the present 
 town. There seems to have been a castle or fortress on 
 the summit of a rock rising precipitously from the river, 
 the origin of which is altogether unknown, and which, 
 after the erection of the church, became a royal resi- 
 dence ; but from the shelter it afforded to the enemy in 
 the wars with England during the reign of Edward I., 
 it was ultimately demolished by the Scots. In the war 
 consequent on the disputed succession to the Scottish 
 throne, the town was twice taken by the army of Edward 
 I., by whom it was plundered and burnt ; and in 1385 it 
 was again nearly reduced to ashes by the English forces 
 under the Duke of Lancaster. It suffered a similar de- 
 vastation from the English army commanded by the 
 protector, Somerset, in an attempt to compel the re- 
 gency of Scotland to negotiate a contract of marriage 
 between the infant princess Mary, afterwards Queen of 
 Scots, and the son of Henry VIII., Edward VI. of Eng- 
 land. At the time of the Reformation, the inhabitants, 
 who were zealous for the cause, proceeded to Edinburgh 
 to assist in besieging the French troops stationed in 
 Leith ; but they were repulsed with considerable loss, 
 and many of them were killed in endeavouring to effect 
 their retreat into Edinburgh. 
 
 In 1645, the Marquess of Montrose, at the head of 
 150 cavalry and 600 infantry, sent a summons to the 
 town to surrender, and on the imprisonment of his mes- 
 senger by the inhabitants, attacked it simultaneously in 
 three different quarters, and after plundering and setting 
 fire to it on the east and north sides, abandoned the 
 people to military execution. In 1651, after the battle 
 of Worcester, the town was besieged by General Monk, 
 to whom it was compelled to yield, though not without 
 a valiant resistance. The governor, Lumsden, retired 
 with part of the garrison to the tower of the church, 
 which for some time he maintained to the annoyance of 
 the enemy ; but being at length obliged to submit, he 
 was inhumanly murdered in the churchyard, together 
 with all his companions, and his head placed on a spike 
 on the battlements of the tower. On this occasion, the 
 town was plundered of every thing of value, and sixty 
 ships in the harbour were laden with the spoils, valued at 
 £200,000 sterling, and sent off to England ; but in pass- 
 ing the bar near the mouth of the river, every vessel was 
 lost. The inhabitants were slaughtered without regard 
 either to age or sex ; and in the general carnage, which 
 continued for three days, it is estimated that more than 
 one-sixth of the inhabitants were put to death. In 
 1669, the town was so greatly reduced that an act of 
 parliament was passed, recommending it to the benevo- 
 lent consideration of the whole kingdom ; and contribu- 
 tions were made for its assistance by all the principal 
 burghs in the country. The various calamities which 
 the town had experienced were, moreover, subsequently 
 aggravated by a dearth that lasted for seven years; and 
 it was not till after the rebellion in 1745 that it began to 
 recover its former importance, since which time few
 
 D U ND 
 
 D U N D 
 
 ^ 
 
 events of historical interest have taken place. In 1841, 
 three of the churches were destroyed by an accidental 
 fire which originated from a stove in the passage between 
 the South and the Steeple churches, on the morning of 
 the 3rd of January. The flames extended to the cathe- 
 dral and the Cross church, but the firemen prevented 
 their communication to the Steeple church, which was 
 saved : the other three, however, about half-past six 
 o'clock, were one mass of fire ; the cathedral was com- 
 pletely destroyed, and the South and Cross churches 
 were almost reduced to ruins. In 1844, Her Majesty 
 Queen Victoria, attended by Prince Albert, arrived in 
 the bay of Dundee on Wednesday, the 11th of Septem- 
 ber, on a visit to Lord Glenlyon, and landed under a 
 triumphal arch erected on the occasion. After remain- 
 ing a short time in the town, the royal visiters proceeded 
 to Blair-Atholl, where they remained till Tuesday, the 
 1st of October, when they returned to Dundee, and em- 
 arked for London. 
 The TOWN is advantageously situated on the north 
 bank of the Tay, and consists of numerous streets, several 
 of which retain the names of the ancient gates in the 
 old walls, which have been long since removed. The 
 principal street, called High-street, in which is the mar- 
 ket-place, is about 1'20 yards in length, and 100 feet 
 wide ; the houses arc neatly built of stone, and four 
 stories in height. To the east of this is the Seagate, 
 one of the oldest streets of the town, a long narrow 
 thoroughfare leading to the road to Broughty-Ferry. 
 The Murraygate, containing many well-built houses, and 
 the Cowgate, adjoining, are connected with the Seagate 
 by numerous cross streets or lanes. King-street, of 
 modern erection, contains handsome houses, and the 
 Nethergate, in the most improved part of the town, is a 
 spacious street of considerable length, containing many 
 elegant detached houses. Castle-street, leading from the 
 south-east angle of the High-street to the harbour, and 
 Union-street, opening a direct communication between 
 Craig Pier and the Nethergate, and in the formation of 
 which many unsightly houses have been rebuilt in an ex- 
 cellent style, are each spacious and handsome. Among 
 the various improvements that have been effected of re- 
 cent years, is the construction of the splendid Reform- 
 street. The streets are well paved, and the roads mac- 
 adamized ; the town is lighted with gas, from works 
 established by a company, about a mile eastward of 
 High-street, and the inhabitants are amply supplied 
 with water. One of the most remarkable features of 
 the town is the lofty tower, 156 feet in height, at the 
 west end of the imposing mass of buildings comprising 
 the Old, South, Cross, and Steeple churches : its design 
 is foreign in its character, and, as has been remarked, 
 it is " more like the tower of a hotel de ville than of a 
 church". The public subscription library contains a 
 collection of more than 6000 volumes ; there are also 
 district libraries connected with the several churches, 
 each of which has nearly 1000 volumes. A spacious and 
 elegant reading and news room has been opened near the 
 harbour, called the Exchange Coffee- Room, which is sup- 
 ported by above 400 subscribers ; and an artisans' read- 
 ing-room, well supplied with daily journals, has been 
 founded by members of the Watt Institution, and has 
 '200 subscribers. The Watt Institution was established 
 in 1896 for the delivery of lectures on scientific subjects, 
 and now possesses an extensive library, consisting chiefly 
 Vol. I.— 329 
 
 of works of art. A reading-room has also been provided 
 by Messrs. Brown, proprietors of spinning-mills, for the 
 use of their workmen. There is a theatre in Castle-street. 
 a handsome and well-arranged edifice ; and card and 
 dancing assemblies are held in the town- hall, and other 
 public buildings. A horticultural society was established 
 in 1824, under the patronage of the neighbouring nobility 
 and gentry ; and a florists' society has also been formed. 
 The old gardens of Chapelshade, in the vicinity of the 
 town, have been converted into a cemetery, and tastefully 
 laid out in walks, parterres, and shrubberies, with ap- 
 propriate embellishments ; and to the north, a public 
 bleach-green, four acres in extent, and containing the 
 requisite apparatus for family washing, has been inclosed, 
 and planted with ornamental shrubs. An act for a better 
 supply of water to the town was passed in the year 184.5, 
 and an act for a better supply of gas in 1846. 
 
 The principal trade pursued is the linen manufac- 
 ture, which was introduced at an early period, and, till 
 within the last forty or fifty years, was carried on en- 
 tirely by hand, both in spinning the yarn and weaving 
 the cloth, to a very considerable extent for the supply of 
 the neighbourhood, and also for exportation. Since the 
 introduction of machinery and the application of steam, 
 however, it has increased to an amazing amount. In 
 1811 four spinning-mills had been erected, driven by 
 steam-engines of the aggregate power of sixty-one 
 horses, consuming 468 tons of flax annually, and pro- 
 ducing 224,600 spindles of yarn ; and the whole of the 
 capital invested in machinery amounted to £22,000. At 
 present there are more than thirty-six spinning-mills in 
 Dundee and the immediate neighbourhood, driven by 
 steam-engines of the aggregate power of 600 horses, con- 
 suming a vast quantity of flax, and producing annually 
 7,500,000 spindles of yarn ; and the capital invested in 
 machinery is about £240,000. In these mills above 3000 
 persons are regularly employed, of whom a large propor- 
 tion are women and children. The number of mdls for 
 weaving is still larger. The total number of families 
 employed in the different departments of the linen trade 
 is 7000, and the amount of wages annually paid is 
 £160,000. The flax is chiefly imported from Russia, 
 Brabant, Holland, and Prussia ; and in 1846 the quan- 
 tity of flax, hemp, and kindred substances that was 
 landed at Dundee was about 40,000 tons. The goods 
 manufactured are, Osnaburghs, sheetings, sailcloth, sack- 
 ing, and banging, and various other articles, of which 
 large quantities are exported to the West Indies, North 
 and South America, and to various ports on the con- 
 tinent. Nearly 800,000 pieces of cloth of various sorts 
 were exported in 1846. The tanning of leather, which 
 was formerly carried on to a very considerable extent, 
 has for some years been rapidly diminishing, and is now 
 almost extinct ; but the manufacture of ropes and cord- 
 age is in a thriving state. There are also several machine- 
 factories, candle-factories, and sugar-refineries. 
 
 The trade of the port consists chiefly in the exporta- 
 tion of grain and agricultural produce, and the different 
 articles of the linen manufacture ; and in the importa- 
 tion of flax, hemp, lime, coal, ashes, timber, iron, tar, 
 whale-blubber, tallow, and other merchandise. The 
 number of vessels registered as belonging to the port in 
 1844 was 326, of the aggregate burthen of 50,901 tons ; 
 the amount of duties paid at the custom-house was 
 £42 737 The number of vessels that entered inwards 
 
 2 U
 
 D U ND 
 
 D U N D 
 
 from foreign ports in a late year was 307, of which 
 253 were British and 54 foreign ; the coasting-trade is 
 very extensive, and it appears that in one year 1858 
 vessels entered inwards, and 1017 cleared outwards. 
 The HARBOUR, previously to the year 1815, was small, 
 and insufficient to accommodate the trade of the port ; 
 but in that year, an act for its improvement and for 
 placing it under the management of commissioners was 
 obtained, and before 1833 the sum of £242,000 was ex- 
 pended in the construction of two capacious wet-docks, 
 nearly eleven acres in extent, and commencing a third 
 of much more ample dimensions. A large tide-harbour 
 was also formed, with extensive quays, as well as a 
 graving-dock, capable of receiving three of the largest 
 class of merchant-ships, with commodious yards for 
 building and repairing vessels. A substantial low- 
 water pier has since been erected on the Craig, the usual 
 landing-place from Newport in Fifeshire, between which 
 place and Dundee regular intercourse by steamers is 
 maintained. A stationary light has been placed on the 
 Craig pier, on the western side of the harbour, and also 
 on the pier at Newport ; there is likewise a light ex- 
 hibited on the east pier, and another on the middle pier, 
 at the entrance of the docks. A grant of £8000 was 
 lately made by government for the erection of a new 
 custom-house at the north-east angle of King William's 
 dock ; it is a handsome building in the Grecian style, 
 and contains also accommodation for transacting the 
 business of the harbour commissioners and of the excise- 
 office. Prior to 1834, the Dundee, Perth, and London 
 Shipping Company employed eight smacks in the London 
 trade, having an aggregate burthen of 991 tons; also 
 three vessels in the Glasgow trade, four in the Liverpool, 
 and four in the Perth, the tonnage of these eleven amount- 
 ing to 673. In that year, however, the company built 
 two powerful steamers, the Dundee and the Perth, of 
 300-horse power each ; and subsequently added a third, 
 the London, of 350-horse power. Besides these steamers, 
 they employ four schooners in the London trade, seven 
 sloops in the Glasgow, four in the Leith, and three 
 lighters and a steam-tug in the Perth trade ; and the 
 entire tonnage of the steamers and sailing-vessels be- 
 longing to the company now amounts to 2686. Two 
 steamers, also, are employed by other parties, in the 
 Dundee and Leith trade. There are several joint-stock 
 whale-fishing companies, employing five ships, averaging 
 325 tons' burthen each. 
 
 The town was originally erected into a royal burgh 
 by charter of William the Lion, and its privileges as such 
 were confirmed by charter of Robert Bruce, and by one 
 of Charles L in 1641. In consequence of a dispute in 
 the election of a dean of guild, the burgh was disfran- 
 chised in 1830, and seven members were appointed by 
 the court of session to manage the interests of the town ; 
 but in 1831 the king, in answer to a petition, confirmed 
 an election of the magistrates and council made by the 
 burgesses and heritors ; and in the 2nd of William IV. 
 an act was passed, extending the royalty of the burgh 
 and the jurisdiction of the magistrates. Under these 
 regulations, the government is vested in a provost, four 
 bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and fourteen other 
 councillors, elected according to the provisions of the 
 general Municipal act, with the exception of the dean of 
 guild, who is chosen by the guild brethren. Seven of 
 the councillors retire from office annually. There are 
 330 
 
 nine incorporated guilds, the bakers, shoemakers, glovers, 
 tailors, bonnet-makers, butchers, hammermen, weavers, 
 and dyers ; and three united trades, the masons, wrights, 
 and slaters. The magistrates have jurisdiction over 
 the whole of the extended royalty, which is co- 
 extensive with the parliamentary boundary, and hold 
 courts weekly on Wednesday for the recovery of debts 
 to any amount, in which the bailies preside for one 
 month each in rotation ; the more important criminal 
 cases are tried by the sheriff-substitute, who is resident 
 in the town, and those of less importance are disposed 
 of in the police court. The sherilf-substitute also holds 
 a court weekly, during the session, for the recovery of 
 debts not exceeding £8. 6. S. ; and a court for the re- 
 covery of small debts is held by the magistrates every 
 alternate week. There is a dean-of-guild court as occa- 
 sion requires, in which the clerk of the guildry acts as 
 assessor. Under the Police act the town is divided into 
 eleven wards, to each of which are appointed two general 
 and two resident commissioners ; and there is also a 
 harbour police. Previously to the Reform act the burgh 
 was associated with Perth, Cupar of Fife, St. Andrew's, 
 and Forfar, in returning a member to the imperial parlia- 
 ment ; since that time it has elected a member of its 
 own, and the number of qualified voters is 2827. 
 
 The old Totvn-hall, erected in 1734, on the site of the 
 ancient church of St. Clement, after a design by Mr. 
 Adam, is a spacious and handsome structure with a 
 tower and spire rising to the height of 100 feet. In front 
 is a piazza, behind which are shops and public offices. 
 On the first-floor are two spacious halls, in one of which, 
 embellished with a portrait of Lord Panmure, the cor- 
 poration hold meetings for the transaction of public 
 business, and in the other the several courts of the 
 magistrates and sheriff are held, and the meetings of 
 the guildry. There are also four arched rooms for the 
 accommodation of the town-clerks and others connected 
 with the courts, and for the preservation of the public 
 records ; and above these is the old town gaol, consist- 
 ing of five apartments, each twenty-four feet in length 
 and twelve feet wide, of which those in front were used 
 for debtors, and the others for criminals. New public 
 buildings, however, of very handsome construction, have 
 been erected by the burgh, at a considerable expense, 
 and containing ample accommodation for the confine- 
 ment of prisoners. Tlie Trades' Hall, situated at the 
 east end of the market-place, an elegant building of the 
 Ionic order, with a lantern and cupola rising from the 
 centre of the roof, was erected by the nine incorporated 
 trades in 1770, and contains on the first-floor a hand- 
 some hall, fifty feet in length and twenty-five feet wide, 
 for holding the general meetings, and nine apartments 
 for the private meetings of each particular trade. The 
 building appropriated as an Exchange is a handsome 
 structure in the Grecian style, erected by a company of 
 subscribers, at an expense of £10,000, and having on 
 the ground-floor a range of offices and shops, and on the 
 first-floor an elegant hall, now used as a reading and 
 news room, to which reference has been already made. 
 There are various banking establishments, namely, the 
 Dundee, the Union, and the Eastern Banks, and four 
 branches of Edinburgh banks : the Forfarshire and 
 Perthshire Insurance Company, the Marine Insurance 
 Company, the Forfarshire Chamber of Commerce, and 
 two associations of underwriters have been also esta-
 
 D UND 
 
 DUND 
 
 blished in the town. The markets are on Tuesday and 
 Friday, and Dundee being the mart of a large surround- 
 ing district, they are numerously attended. On Tues- 
 day, manufactured goods and various kinds of merchan- 
 dise and provisions are exposed to sale in great profusion ; 
 and on Friday, in addition to these, there is an abundant 
 supply of grain. 
 
 Facilities of communication, besides those by sea, are 
 afforded by excellent roads, of which the coast road to 
 Aberdeen passes through the town : there are turnpike- 
 roads to Cupar-Angus, Forfar, Brechin, and Glasgow, 
 and, by branch roads through Fifeshire, to Edinburgh. 
 The Dundee and Neictijle railway was commenced in 
 1S36, and completed in 1S3'2, at a cost of about £50,000.: 
 it is about eleven miles in length, and at Newtyle is con- 
 nected with the Scottish Midland Junction railway from 
 Forfar to Perth. An act was obtained in 1847 for the 
 improvement of the line. The Dundee and Arbroath rail- 
 way was hegaa in lS36,aLiid completed in 1840; it is about 
 seventeen miles in length, passes close to the shore, and 
 is nearly level throughout. At Arbroath it is connected 
 with a line to Forfar and to Aberdeen. The Dundee and 
 Perth railway, for which an act was obtained in 184.5, was 
 opened to Barnhill, not far from Perth, in May 1847, and 
 was subsequently completed to Prince's-street, Perth, 
 a distance bf above 20 miles from this town. Acts of 
 parliament were passed in 1848, authorizing the forma- 
 tion of a junction line of the two preceding railways, 
 the Arbroath and the Perth, in Dundee ; and enabling the 
 Dundee and Perth railway company to take a lease of 
 the Arbroath railway. The whole line, from the city of 
 Perth to the town of Arbroath, is now called the Dundee, 
 Perth, and Aberdeen Railway Junction. On the south 
 shore of the Firth of Tay commences the Dundee section 
 of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. 
 
 The PARISH is nearly six miles in length from east to 
 west, and varies greatly in breadth, comprising an area 
 of about 4200 acres, of which 254 are woodland and 
 plantations, 135 waste, and the remainder arable and 
 pasture. Its surface is diversified, rising into hills of 
 considerable elevation, of which the Law, and the hill of 
 Balgay, are the most conspicuous. To the west of the 
 town the soil is light and shallow, to the north and east of 
 richer quality, and along the bank of the Tay luxuriantly 
 fertile. The crops are oats, barley, wheat, turnips, and 
 potatoes, with the various grasses ; the system of hus- 
 bandry is advanced, and the lands are in a high state of 
 cultivation. In general the farm-houses are of stone, 
 and roofed with slate ; the lands are inclosed partly with 
 stone dykes, and partly with hedges of thorn. The only 
 cattle pastured are milch-cows on the several farms. The 
 soil is well adapted for fruit of every kind, and consider- 
 able portions of the land near the town are laid down in 
 gardens, and also in nursery-grounds : the plantations 
 arc ash, plane, beech, a few elms, and larch and Scotch 
 fir, which are in a thriving state, but are rather orna- 
 mental than profitable. In this parish the principal 
 substrata are sandstone, amygdaloid alternated with 
 trap, and red porphyry. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £118,326. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs Dundee is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Dundee, synod of Angus 
 and Mearns. The parish was in lS.'i4 separated, by act 
 of the presbytery, into the districts of St. Mary, St. Paul, 
 the Grey Friars, St. John, St. Clement, St. David, St. 
 331 
 
 Andrew, and Chapelshade, each of which was erected 
 into a quoad sacra parish; and in 1836, by the same 
 authority, part of the districts of St. John and St. David 
 was formed into the additional quoad sacra parish of 
 St. Peter. These arrangements, however, in common 
 with similar arrangements in other parts of the country, 
 were afterwards abrogated. The parish of .SV. Mary 
 comprised, according to the plans just referred to, the 
 rural district of the parish of Dundee, and part of the 
 suburbs of the town : the minister's stipend is £313. 6., 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £25 per annum ; 
 patrons, the Town Council. The Old and South churches, 
 partly used by the inhabitants of St. Mary's, have since 
 the great fire been restored, and contain together about 
 2450 sittings, of which 1350 are in the latter. St. Paul's 
 parish, wholly within the town, comprised an extent of 
 about half a mile square : the stipend is £274. I7. ; 
 patrons, the Town Council. The congregation assemble 
 alternately in the Old and South churches. The parish 
 of the Grey Friars comprised about one-eighth part of 
 the town and suburbs : the minister's stipend was 
 £2"5. 2. ; patrons, the Town Council. Divine service 
 is performed in the Old and South churches. Con- 
 nected with the Established Church is a Gaelic chapel, 
 erected within the last few years, at a cost of £2400, 
 and containing 100 sittings : the minister has a stipend 
 of £110, of which £10 are granted by the Society for 
 Propagating Christian Knowledge, and the remainder 
 derived from seat-rents ; patrons, the male communi- 
 cants. St. John's parish was about half a mile in 
 length, and of nearly equal breadth : the stipend is £2/5 ; 
 patrons, the Town Council. The church, called the 
 Cross church, containing about 1037 sittings, was de- 
 stroyed in 1841 by the fire, but has been restored. St. 
 Clement's parish was three-quarters of a mile in length, 
 and one-quarter of a mile in breadth : the minister's 
 stipend is £300 ; patrons, the Council. The church, 
 called the Steeple church, was rebuilt in 1782, and con- 
 tains 1463 sittings. St. David's was about two miles in 
 length, and three-quarters of a mile in breadth : the 
 stipend is £275 ; patrons, the Council. The church 
 was built in 1800, at a cost of £2220, and has 1608 
 sittings. St. Andrew's was one mile and three-quarters 
 in length, and three-quarters of a mile in breadth : the 
 stipend is £180 ; patrons, the male communicants. The 
 church was built in 1774, at a cost of £3000, by sub- 
 scription, and contains 1486 sittings. An additional 
 church has been lately erected by subscription, at an 
 expense of nearly £2000, for 1 100 persons. The parish 
 of Chapelshade comprised nearly two square miles : the 
 stipend is £150, derived from seat-rents; patrons, the 
 male cominunicants. The church, built originally as a 
 Relief chapel in 1789, was united to the Established 
 Church in I791 ; it was enlarged in 1830, at an expense 
 of £880, and contains 1280 sittings. St. Peter's parish, 
 comprising a portion of the parishes of St. John and St. 
 David, separated by the presbytery in 1836, was about 
 a mile and a half in length, and one-quarter of a mile in 
 breadth : the minister's stipend was £220, with an 
 allowance of £12 for communion elements; patrons, 
 the male communicants. The church, containing 1 120 
 sittings, was erected in 1836, at a cost of £2400, of 
 which £250 were granted by the General Assembly, and 
 the remainder raised by subscription. There are places 
 of worsh-i' in Dundee for members of the Free Church, 
 
 2 U2
 
 D U N D 
 
 D UN D 
 
 M 
 
 the United Presbyterian Synod, the United Original 
 Seceders, Baptists, Baptist- Bereans, and Paedobaptist- 
 Bereans, Episcopalians, the Society of Friends, Glassites, 
 Independents, Primitive and United Methodists, Re- 
 formed Presbyterians, Wesleyans, Roman Catholics, 
 Unitarians, and others. 
 
 The grammar school is under the care of two clas- 
 sical masters, who have each a salary of £50, and the 
 fees annually produce to each about £60 ; it is well 
 conducted and numerously attended. The English 
 school has also two masters, one for reading and English 
 grammar, who has a salary of £30, and one for writing 
 and arithmetic, with a salary of £'20, in addition to 
 which each master derives about £70 from fees. A 
 school called the Sessional school, lately established, is 
 attended by about 500 children, and conducted by a 
 master who has a salary of £80 per annum ; the build- 
 ing was erected on a site given by the town council. 
 The Dundee Academy, for which a spacious and hand- 
 some building has been erected in the centre of the 
 town, at a cost of £8000, raised chiefly by subscription, 
 is under the patronage of fifteen directors, of whom five 
 are appointed by the town council and ten by the sub- 
 scribers. This institution is endowed with £6000, be- 
 queathed by Messrs. Webster, of the city of London, who 
 were natives of the town. The course of studies is very 
 complete, and is superintended by two classical masters ; 
 a master for the modern languages ; one for moral phi- 
 losophy, nautical astronomy, and logic ; a master for 
 natural philosophy, mathematics, and chemistry ; one 
 for drawing and painting; one for English reading, 
 grammar, and geography, and a master for writing and 
 arithmetic. There are numerous other schools in the 
 town and neighbourhood, in which it is calculated that 
 about 4000 children receive instruction. The industrial 
 school for vagrant children was established in 1847. 
 Among the many charitable institutions of the town 
 are, the ancient Hospital, from the revenues of which 
 £500 are annually distributed among poor citizens ; the 
 Royal Infirmary, established in 1798, and supported by 
 subscription, which receives more than thirty in-patients, 
 and affords medical attendance and medicines to the 
 poor at their own dwellings ; the Royal Lunatic Asylum, 
 erected in 1812, and supported by subscription for the 
 reception of I'JO patients ; the Royal Orphan Institution, 
 established in IS15 ; the Indigent-Sick Society, distri- 
 buting annually £160; the Medical and Surgical Dis- 
 pensary ; the Institutions for the Lame and Blind ; the 
 Seamen's Friend Society, dispensing yearly £1500 ; the 
 Female Society, £190; and the Clothing Society, dis- 
 tributing about £40. These and various other benevolent 
 institutions collectively dispense, in aid of the distressed 
 and indigent, nearly £4000 annually ; exclusively of 
 numerous bequests by charitable individuals for similar 
 purposes. 
 
 There are still some remains of the ancient palace 
 called Whitehall, the occasional residence of the Scottish 
 monarchs previously to the reign of James VI., and 
 subsequently of Charles II., who lodged n\ it for some 
 time before the battle of Worcester. The site of the 
 Franciscan convent founded by Devorgilla, mother of 
 John Baliol, and which was destroyed at the Reforma- 
 tion, was granted together with the adjacent lands by 
 Mary, Queen of Scots, to the town for a burying-place. 
 In clearing some ground for the formation of a new 
 33'i 
 
 street in 1831, the vestiges of an ancient mint, supposed 
 to have been erected by Robert Bruce, were discovered ; 
 the smelting furnace was found nearly entire. At 
 the western extremity of High-street is an ancient 
 house in which Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch and Mon- 
 mouth, was born, during the residence of her parents 
 here, who had been driven from the castle of Dalkeith 
 by the commissioners of Cromwell ; it was also inha- 
 bited by General Monk after he had reduced the town. 
 The castle of Dudhope, once the seat of the Scrimgeours, 
 hereditary constables of Dundee, has been converted 
 into barracks for infantry. There are no remains of the 
 castle of Dundee, which occupied the summit of a steep 
 rock still called Castle Hill. Among the distinguished 
 characters connected with the town, have been, Alexander 
 Scrimgeour, one of the valiant companions of Wallace, 
 by whom he was made constable of Dundee Castle ; Sir 
 John Scritngeour, afterwards I'iscount Dudhope, a zealous 
 adherent of Charles I., who fell in the battle of Marstou- 
 Moor, and whose son was created Earl of Dundee ; the 
 celebrated historian. Hector Boece ; the distinguished 
 Admiral Duncan, who obtained the victory over the 
 Dutch fleet off Camperdown in 1797, upon which he 
 was created J iscount Camperdown ; also Major-General 
 Andrew Burn, author of several religious publications, 
 who was born at Dundee in 174-2, and died at Gilling- 
 hara, in Kent, in 1S14 ; the late Rev. Dr. Small, for many 
 years minister of the parish, and author of a work called 
 Kepler's Discoveries ; and the late James Ivory, F.R.S., 
 distinguished for his mathematical attainments. 
 
 DUXDOXALD, a parish, in the district of Kyle/^ 
 county of Ayr, 5 miles (S. VV.) from Kdmarnock ; con- 
 taining, with the former quoad sacra parishes of FuUar- 
 ton and Troon, 67 16 inhabitants, of whom 345 are in 
 the village of Dundonald. This place derives its name 
 from the situation of its ancient castle on the summit 
 of a hill near the village. Here Robert II., King of 
 Scotland, and the first of the Stuarts, occasionally re- 
 sided till his decease in 1390, and the castle was fre- 
 quently the residence also of many of his successors, 
 but was, with the lands attached to it, granted by 
 James V. to a descendant of the Wallace family, by 
 whom it was sold in 1638 to Sir William Cochrane, 
 ancestor of the present Earl of Dundonald. In 1726 
 the lands passed to the Montgomerie family, who are 
 still proprietors ; but the site and the remains of the 
 ancient castle, from which his lordship takes his title, 
 are reserved by the earl. The p.\risu is bounded on 
 the north by the river Irvine, and on the west by the 
 Firth of Clyde. It is about eight miles in length, and 
 from five to six in breadth, comprising 11,000 acres, of 
 which about '2500 are waste, and the greater portion of 
 the rest under cultivation. The surface along the sea- 
 coast and the banks of the river is nearly level, with 
 some gentle undulations towards the centre, where it 
 rises into hills of moderate elevation, the highest of 
 which, called the Clavin hills, do not exceed 400 feet in 
 height, commanding, however, from their summits a 
 prospect embracing fourteen different counties. With 
 the exception of the Irvine, there are no rivers of any 
 importance in the parish, but springs of excellent water 
 are found in great profusion. 
 
 The soil embraces almost every variety, and the arable 
 lauds are under excellent cultivation ; the crops include 
 oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips. Wheat, for the
 
 D U ND 
 
 DUND 
 
 growth of which the soil is well adapted, was formerly 
 raised in large quantities ; but from the moisture of the 
 climate, and the consequent lateness of the harvest, its 
 cultivation was for some years almost abandoned : of 
 late, however, owing to the improved state of husbandry, 
 its growth has been resumed. Considerable tracts of 
 waste land have been reclaimed by tile-draining, first 
 introduced into the parish by the Duke of Portland. In 
 general the farm-buildings are commodious and sub- 
 stantial ; the lands are well inclosed, partly with hedge 
 rows and partly with stone dykes, and the more recent 
 improvements in the construction of agricultural imple- 
 ments have been adopted. Much attention is paid to 
 the management of the dairy-farms, and large quantities 
 of the produce are sent to Ayr and Glasgow ; the cattle 
 are all of the Ayrshire breed. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £23,496. There are still 
 some remains of natural wood, consisting of birch, hazel, 
 and mountain-ash, but none of the trees are remark- 
 able for size : the plantations, though not extensive, 
 are generally in a thriving state. In this parish the 
 principal substrata are freestone and coal. The free- 
 stone is quarried at Craiksland and Collennan : that at 
 the former place, which is of fine texture and durable 
 quality, and may be raised in masses of any size, is sent 
 chiefly to Ireland, and a steam-engine for sawing it into 
 slabs has been erected at the quarry. The coal is 
 svrought for the supply of the neighbourhood, and for 
 exportation, at Shewalton, and also at Old Rome, on 
 the lands of Fairlie. At the former it occurs in two 
 seams, of which the lower, at a depth of thirty-five 
 lathoms, is thirty-four inches, and the upper forty-three 
 inches, thick ; and at the latter place are four different 
 seams, varying from two feet eight inches to six feet in 
 thickness. The mansion-houses in the parish are, 
 Auchan House, built by the Earl of Dundonald, and 
 now nearly in ruins, the property of Lady Mary Mont- 
 gomerie, by whose servants it is chiefly inhabited ; and 
 Fullarton, Fairlie, Shewalton, Newfield, Hillhouse, and 
 Curreath, which are all handsome and comparatively 
 modern buildings. The village of Dundonald is beauti- 
 vUMi/ fully situated near the remains of the ancient castle, and 
 (' has a pleasingly rural aspect. Letters were formerly 
 delivered here by a runner from the Troon office, who 
 passed daily through the village ; but Dundonald has 
 now a post of its own. Facility of communication is 
 afforded by the lines of the Glasgow and Ayrshire rail- 
 way company, by the turnpike road to Dalmellington, 
 and by several other roads which branch off in various 
 directions. A cattle-show is held in May. The village 
 of Shewalton, on the bank of the river Irvine, contains 
 •219; and that of Old Rome, on the same river, to the 
 east, contains '257 inhabitants. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Ayr, synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr. The minister's stipend is about £'260, with a 
 manse and glebe, rated at £40 per annum ; patron. 
 Lady Mary Montgomerie. Dundonald church, erected 
 in 1803, is a neat structure situated in the village, and 
 containing 630 sittings. Churches have been erected at 
 Fullarton and Troon j and there are places of worship 
 for members of the Free Church at Dundonald and Troon. 
 The parochial school is attended by about eighty chil- 
 dren ; the master has a salary of £28. 18. 9., with a 
 house and garden, and the fees average £40. There are 
 333 
 
 schools also at Fullarton and Troon, and various Sab- 
 bath schools ; and a parochial library, established in 
 1836, and now containing 150 volumes, is supported by 
 subscription. Dr. James M''Adam, a native of the 
 parish, bequeathed £1000, of which he appropriated the 
 interest to be distributed in blankets and coal to the 
 poor ; and the Misses Campbell of Curreath left £90, 
 to be distributed annually to six persons not receiving 
 parochial relief. The remains of the ancient castle of 
 Dundonald consist of a quadrangular range of buildings, 
 two stories in height, 113 feet in length and forty feet 
 in breadth, and in a greatly dilapidated condition : on 
 the western wall are the arms of the Stuarts, much ob- 
 literated. Previously to the Reformation it contained a 
 chapel dedicated to St. Ninian, of which no vestiges are 
 now to be traced. On the farm of Barassie has been 
 found an urn containing calcined bones, and which ap- 
 peared to be rather of British than Roman character. 
 Upon the heights above the farm of Harpercroft are two 
 ancient camps, the larger of them defended by a circular 
 embankment of earth and stones, inclosing an area of 
 ten acres, having in the centre a similar inclosure of one 
 acre in extent. The construction of these camps is 
 popularly ascribed to the Romans ; but it is not with 
 certainty ascertained by whom they were formed. 
 
 DUNDRENNAN, a village, in the parish of Rer- <JJ^^ 
 RICK, stewartry of Kirkcudbright, 4 miles (E. S. E.) ^ / 
 
 from Kirkcudbright ; containing 202 inhabitants. It is 
 situated in a beautiful valley, about a mile and a half 
 from the north-western shore of Solway Firth, and is 
 celebrated for its ancient abbey, founded in 1142 by 
 Fergus, lord of Galloway, for monks of the Cistercian 
 order whom he brought from Rivaulx, in the county of 
 York. This establishment, of which Sylvanus was the 
 first abbot, continued to flourish under his successors 
 till the Reformation ; and after its dissolution in 1561 
 its revenues, amounting to £500, were, upon the death 
 of the last abbot, annexed by James VI. to his royal 
 chapel of Stirling. During the incumbency of the last 
 abbot (Edward Maxwell, son of Lord John Herries), 
 Mary, Queen of Scots, arrived at this place on her flight 
 from the disastrous battle of Langside, and here spent 
 the night previous to her embarkation for England, for 
 which she sailed from a small creek surrounded by pre- 
 cipitous cliffs, and since called Port-Mary in commemora- ^^ 
 tion of the event. The village has a pleasingly rural ap- '^ V (-«J-«J 
 pearance ; the houses are neatly built, and ornamented ■> 
 with trees of ancient growth, and there are two com- 
 fortable inns for the reception of visiters. One of two 
 parochial schools in Rerrick is held here. In the vicinity 
 )S the elegant mansion of Dundrennan, the seat of the 
 Maitland family ; and the place derives much interest 
 from the venerable ruins of the abbey, and the beauty and 
 variety of the surrounding scenery. 
 
 The ruins are situated on a gentle acclivity rising from 
 a narrow vale, through which flows the streamlet called 
 Abbey Burn. They consist chiefly of parts of the con- 
 ventual church, originally a stately cruciform structure 
 in the early English style, with a central tower 200 feet 
 in height. Several of the monuments are still remaining, 
 but in a greatly dilapidated eonditimi. Among these is 
 the tomb of Alan, lord of Galloway, who was interred in 
 the church in 1233, and whose recumbent effigy in 
 armour, and cross-legged, is sculptured in high relief, 
 but much mutilated ; and the tomb of one of the abbots
 
 DU NF 
 
 D U N F 
 
 in his canonicals is in tolerable preservation, though the 
 inscription is totally obliterated. For the preservation of 
 the remains, Mr. Maitland some years since presented a 
 memorial to the commissioners of woods and forests, pro- 
 posing to relinquish all his right of property in the abbey, 
 on condition of its receiving from the crown protection 
 from further dilapidation. In accordance with this pro- 
 posal, the remains have been secured from decay, and, 
 with the surrounding burying-ground, inclosed with a 
 high fence of stone. The pavements of the church have 
 been cleared from all accumulations of rubbish, and re- 
 duced to their ancient level; and many of the monuments, 
 and of the beautifully clustered columns and gracefully 
 pointed arches, have been restored. The whole, there- 
 fore, is now one of the best preserved and most inter- 
 esting relics of monastic architecture in the kingdom. 
 ^ihtjoj DUNDYVAN and NEW DUNDYVAN, villages, in 
 
 ' " the parish of Old AIoNKL.^ND, Middle ward of the county 
 of Lanark, \\ mile (W. S. W.) from Airdrie ; containing, 
 the one 1'298, and the other 2'20'2 inhabitants. These 
 are two among numerous villages which have lately and 
 rapidly sprung up in connexion with the extensive coal- 
 mines and iron and other works of this district, so dis- 
 tinguished for its mineral wealth and manufacturing im- 
 portance. They lie on the high road from Airdrie to 
 Glasgow, and are the seat of considerable iron-works, 
 which employ nearly the whole of the male population. 
 The ironstone wrought for the furnaces here is very 
 valuable, some of it yielding from thirty to forty per 
 cent, of iron ; it is of the sort usually denominated 
 " black band ", and chiefly produced from the lands of 
 Rochsilloch, the property of Sir William Alexander. 
 About a mile south-east of Dundyvan are the celebrated 
 Calder iron-works ; at the same distance westward are 
 the Drumpellier coal-mines ; and all around there are 
 pits and quarries in full operation. 
 
 DUNFERMLINE, a 
 royal burgh, and a parish, in 
 the district of Dunfermline, 
 county of Fife ; including 
 the villages of Charlestown, 
 Crossford, Halbeath, Lime- 
 kilns, Mastertown, Patiemuir, 
 L North Queensferry, and part 
 5^ of Crossgates ; and contain- 
 ing 20,'217 inhabitants, of 
 whom 7S65 are within the 
 burgh, VI miles (W. by S.) 
 from Kirkcaldy, and 16 (N. 
 This place, which is of great 
 antiquity, is supposed to have derived its name, signify- 
 ing in the Gaelic language "the watch-tower upon the 
 stream ", or " the castle on the winding stream ", from 
 the erection of a castle on the summit of a peninsulated 
 eminence in the glen of PittencriefF, by Malcolm Canmore, 
 about the year 1056. Of this castle only some small 
 fragments are now remaining ; but from the traces of 
 foundations it appears to have been a quadrilateral 
 structure, about sixty feet in length and fifty feet in 
 breadth, of great strength, and having an elevation of 
 seventy feet above the level of the rivulet flowing through 
 the glen. Malcolm, on the murder of his father Duncan 
 by the usurper Macbeth, took refuge in England, where 
 he was favourably received at the court of Edward the 
 Confessor, till, on the death of Macbeth, slain by Macduff 
 334 
 
 (^ 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 W.) from Edinburgh. 
 
 at the battle of Dunsinane, he ascended the throne of 
 his ancestors. Upon the conquest of England by the 
 Duke of Normandy in 1066, Edgar Atheling, heir to the 
 crown of England, with his mother, and sisters Margaret 
 and Catherine, attended by a numerous retinue of Saxon 
 nobles, were, on their voyage to Hungary, driven by- 
 tempestuous weather into a bay in the north of the Firth 
 of Forth, which has since retained the appellation of St. 
 Margaret's Hope. On hearing of their landing, Malcolm 
 visited the party, and conducted them in person to his 
 castle, where they were hospitably entertained ; and soon 
 after, Margaret, with whom, during his residence in 
 England, he had been acquainted, and even, as some 
 think, had formed a contract of marriage, became Queen 
 of Scotland. At a .short distance to the south-east of 
 Malcolm's castle, a palace was subsequently erected, 
 though the exact date is unknown : but of this once 
 magnificent structure, the residence for many generations 
 of the Scottish kings, and the birthplace of several of 
 them, only a portion of the eastern end, and the south- 
 west wall, remain : the chimney-place of the apartment 
 where Charles I. was born is still to be seen. Adjoining 
 the palace was the Queen's House, erected for her pri- 
 vate residence by Anne of Denmark, queen of James VI., 
 to whom the king had granted the lordship of Dunferm- 
 line on the morning after his marriage. This mansion 
 was in good repair for many years after the palace was 
 in ruins, but falling into neglect, was for some time oc- 
 cupied as a school, subsequently as a woollen factory, and 
 in 1797, having become ruinous, was removed. 
 
 A MONASTERY either for Culdean or Benedictine monks 
 was founded by Malcolm, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, 
 and of which his queen, whose numerous virtues obtained 
 for her the distinction of canonization, became patroness. 
 Being left by him in an unfinished state, at his death at 
 the siege of Alnwick in Northumberland, it was completed 
 by his son Alexander I. The institution was governed 
 by a prior till the reign of David I., who raised it to the 
 dignity of a mitred abbey, and in 1 1'24 placed in it thir- 
 teen additional monks of the Benedictine order from 
 Canterbury, greatly extended the buildings, and endowed 
 it with ample possessions in various parts of the king- 
 dom. It continued to flourish, and became one of the 
 most important and richest establishments in Scotland, 
 its fame being particularly high about the middle of the 
 thirteenth century, when a new and more stately choir 
 was raised, in the early pointed style. In 1291, Edward 
 I. of England visited DunfermUne, where he summoned 
 the Scottish nobility to do homage for their lands as 
 vassals to his crown : in 1296, be made a tour for 
 twenty-one weeks through different parts of Scotland, 
 in which he came to this town ; and on his return to 
 England, he took with him the inauguration stone from 
 the abbey of Scone, which he deposited in the church of 
 Westminster, in London. In 1303, Edward again visited 
 Dunfermline on his route from Kinross, and took up his 
 residence in the abbey, where he was joined by his queen 
 and a party of nobility, and remained from Decembtr 
 till March. While here he was employed in receiving 
 the submission of such of the Scottish nobles as had not 
 on his former visit done him homage for their posses- 
 sions ; and on his departure for England his soldiers set 
 fire to the abbey, which was reduced to little more than 
 a heap of ruins, the church only, and a few cells of the 
 monks, being spared from the flames. In this abbey,
 
 D U NF 
 
 D U N F 
 
 the buildings of which were so extensive, the Scottish 
 nobility were accustdtned to hold their meetings, during 
 the wars of Bruce and Baliol, for rescuing their country 
 from the English yoke ; and to this circumstance is at- 
 tributed its desolation by the forces of Edward. 
 
 David II., son of Robert Bruce, was born at the palace 
 of Dunfermline on the 4th of March, IS^S ; and during 
 that prince's long minority, Edward Baliol, when con- 
 tending for the crown of Scotland, after having landed 
 his army at Kinghorn, in 1332, came to this place, where 
 he found a seasonable supply of arms and provisions 
 laid up by order of Randolph, regent of Scotland. In 
 1335 a parliament was held here, at which Sir Andrew 
 Murray was made regent of the kingdom in place of 
 Randolph, deceased ; but having gone to visit his estates 
 in the north, in 1338, he died while on his journey, and 
 after being interred in the chapel of Rosemarkie, his 
 remains were removed to this town, and deposited with 
 those of Bruce and Randolph. In 1385, part of a large 
 body of French auxiliaries who, on the invitation of 
 Robert II., had come to that monarch's assistance against 
 the English, were quartered at this place, which was 
 visited soon afterwards by Richard II. of England, who, 
 having burnt Edinburgh, advanced to Dunfermline, and 
 lodged in the abbey, which, upon his departure, was 
 burnt by the English army, together with the town. In 
 1441, James, son of Sir Robert Bruce of Clackmannan, 
 was consecrated Bishop of Dunkeld in the abbey church 
 here, and in the same year became also chancellor of 
 Scotland. The queen of James IV. made a short stay at 
 Dunfermline in 1512; and in 1515 the abbot of Kelso 
 and other friends of Lord Home were imprisoned in the 
 town by order of the Duke of Albany, then regent. 
 Mary, Queen of Scots, visited Dunfermline in her route 
 to Dysart and St. Andrew's, in 1561 ; and in the year 1581 
 King James VI. subscribed the Covenant at this place. 
 Charles I., King of England, was born in the palace on 
 the igth of November, 1600; and in 1633, in his pro- 
 gress through Scotland, he passed a short time at Dun- 
 fermline, on which occasion he created Sir Robert Ker 
 earl of Ancrum, and conferred the honour of five knight- 
 hoods. In the year 1624, the town was nearly destroyed 
 by an accidental fire. In 1650 Charles II. visited the 
 town, where he subscribed the confession of faith called 
 the " Dunfermline Declaration " ; and in the following 
 year a battle was fought near Pitreavie House between 
 the forces of Cromwell and the royalist army, in which 
 the latter sustained considerable loss. In 1715, about a 
 month before the battle of Sherilfmuir, a detachment of 
 the Pretender'sarmy, consisting of about300 Highlanders 
 and eighty horse, under the Marquess of Huntly, was 
 surprised and defeated, with the loss of several killed and 
 many taken prisoners, by the forces under Colonel, after- 
 wards Lord, Cathcart. 
 
 The TOWN is pleasantly situated on an eminence 
 stretching from east to west, and gradually rising from 
 the south to an elevation of 356 feet above the level of 
 the sea. It consists of one principal street, intersected 
 at right angles by several smaller streets from north to 
 south, of which those in the latter direction have a con- 
 siderable declivity. In 1/70 the principal street was 
 extended towards the west by the erection of a bridge 
 across the glen of Pittencrieff, above and on either side 
 of which the proprietor, George Chalmers, Esq., raised 
 a mound whereon there has been built, in a line with 
 335 
 
 the High-street, a handsome range of houses with gar- 
 dens attached to them, called Bridge-street. An ad- 
 joining street, running northward, has been named after 
 him Chalmers-street. The houses in the chief streets 
 are all substantial and well built. In several parts of 
 the town are numerous villas and many private mansions 
 surrounded with pleasure-grounds, which give to the 
 place a somewhat rural appearance ; and the tower and 
 spires of the ancient abbey and public buildings, com- 
 bining with other features, have a strikingly interesting 
 aspect. Great additions to the town, and considerable 
 improvements, have been lately made ; the abbey park 
 has been thrown open for building, and many handsome 
 houses with extensive gardens have been completed. The 
 streets are paved, and lighted with gas by a company 
 established in 1S28, who erected works in the lower 
 part of the town at an expense of nearly £12,000 ; and 
 the inhabitants are supplied with water brought from 
 springs in the town moor into a capacious reservoir, 
 from which it is distributed by pipes. An act for a 
 better supply of water was passed in 1847. The Dun- 
 fermline library, supported by a proprietary of share- 
 holders, has a collection of about 3000 volumes, and the 
 Tradesmen's and Mechanics' libraries, united in 1832, 
 contain about 2000 ; a circulating library has been esta- 
 blished, and in the town-hall is a public newsroom 
 supplied with the daily journals and periodical publica- 
 tions. The Mechanics' institution, founded in 1825, 
 still retains its apparatus, though the lectures have been 
 discontinued. A scientific association was established 
 in 1834. The Western District of Fife Agricultural 
 Society hold their meetings here in July, for the distri- 
 bution of premiums, and the Horticultural Society and 
 Pittencrieff Horticultural Society also meet annually. 
 There is likewise an Ornithological Society. 
 
 The staple trade is the table-linen manufacture, 
 which, by a regular and progressive series of improve- 
 ments, has been brought to the highest state of perfec- 
 tion. The principal articles made are diapers, damasks, 
 and coloured table-covers, all of every variety of pattern, 
 and remarkable for the beauty of their texture. Toilet 
 napkins, with the royal arms in the centre, were made 
 here for his late Majesty William IV.; and in 1840, 
 toilet cloths, executed according to a sketch by the 
 officers of the Queen's household, and having the royal 
 arms, with the initials V. R., and a border of oak and 
 laurel, were woven by the same manufacturer for her 
 present Majesty. An order was subsequently received 
 from the lord steward by another manufacturer, for 
 damask table-linen of the finest quality, decorated in 
 a suitable manner. The rapid advance in this manu- 
 facture was much promoted by premiums offered by the 
 board of trade, and though these are now discontinued, 
 rewards are still sometimes granted for specimens of 
 superior elegance. One firm in the town obtained, in 
 the course of eighteen years previous to 1837, premiums 
 amounting to £516. The finer yarns are procured 
 chiefly from Leeds and Preston, in England, and from 
 Belfast, in Ireland ; but there are large establishments 
 in the town and other places of Scotland for the spin- 
 ning of yarn of a coarser quality. Above 3000 persons 
 are employed in the various looms here, and the value 
 of the goods manufactured annually exceeds £350,000. 
 There are two iron-foundries in the town, and a third 
 at Charlestown in the parish, in which, in addition to
 
 D U N F 
 
 D U N F 
 
 the usual castings of iron, are produced some of brass. 
 The manufacture of tobacco, for which there are two 
 estabhshments, is considerable. There are two tanneries 
 and currying-works, three roperies, a soap-work, and a 
 candle manufactory ; five breweries, three of which are 
 in the town ; four dye-works, a saw-mill, two tile and 
 brick works, and various other establishments connected 
 with the trade of the town. Branches of the Bank of 
 Scotland, the British Linen Company, the Commercial 
 Bank, and the Edinburgh and Leith Bank have been 
 opened here. The market-days are Tuesday and Friday, 
 the former, which is numerously attended, being for 
 corn, and the latter for eggs, poultry, butter, and pro- 
 visions. Fairs are held for horses, cattle, and general 
 merchandise, on the third Tuesday in January, March, 
 April, June, Juh', September, October, and November. 
 The post-office has a good delivery ; and facility of con- 
 veyance is aliorded by excellent turnpike-roads, of which 
 more than thirty miles traverse the parish, and by rail- 
 roads from the collieries and lime-works to Charlestown. 
 A railway, also, has been constructed from the lower 
 end of the town, and communicates with the Elgin rail- 
 road. But the chief means of intercourse are afforded 
 by the Dunfermline and Stirling railway, and the Dun- 
 fermline branch of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee 
 railway ; both of them lately opened. Steam-boats ply 
 in the Firth of Forth, for which there is a good stone 
 pier at Charlestown, and a wooden one at the North 
 Ferry. There are likewise harbours at Limekilns and 
 Brucehaven. The annual value of real property in the 
 entire parish is £53,515, of which £17,532 are returned 
 for the burgh. 
 
 The BURGH appears to have arisen gradually under 
 the abbots of the monastery, from whom it derived cer- 
 tain privileges and immunities, which it continued to 
 hold for nearly two centuries, till it was erected into a 
 royal burgh by charter of James VL in 15S8, ratifying 
 all former grants. Under this charter, the government 
 is vested in a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, trea- 
 surer, chamberlain, and a council of sixteen, by whom all 
 the other officers of the burgh are appointed. The juris- 
 diction of the magistrates extends over the whole of the 
 royalty, and the provost is ex-officio a justice of the 
 peace for the county of Fife ; the magistrates hold the 
 ordinary bailie-court for the disposal of police cases, and 
 the nine-merks' court for the recovery of debts not ex- 
 ceeding the sum of ten shillings. Actions for small 
 debts before the justices of the peace have almost ceased, 
 since the institution of the sheriff's court for small debts. 
 The police is under the direction of commissioners ap- 
 pointed by act of parliament in 1811. There are eight 
 incorporated trades, viz., the smiths, weavers, wrights, 
 tailors, shoemakers, bakers, masons, and butchers, all 
 of whom, except the vpeavers, have exclusive privileges. 
 The fraternity of guildry is very ancient, and possesses 
 property of the yearly value of about £;J00. Dunferm- 
 line is associated with Stirling, Culross, Inverkeithing, 
 and Queensferry, in returning a member to the imperial 
 parliament. The number of £10 householders within 
 the burgh proper is 397, and of those under that rent, 
 but above £5, 432. The tolbooth, or Toun House, was 
 built in 1771, and two upper stories were added to it in 
 1792 : it is a neat plain edifice, with a square tower 100 
 feet in height ; and several carved stones which formed 
 part of the ancient cross, now removed, have been in- 
 336 
 
 serted in the front wall of the building. Tlie first-floor 
 contains the council-room ; and above is the town-hall, 
 used also as an exchange reading-room, in which are 
 portraits of Vice-Admiral Sir Andrew Mitchell. George 
 Chalmers, Esq., and Provost Adam Low, with busts of 
 the late William Pitt and Lord Melville. The third 
 story was used as the gaol previously to the erection of 
 a more commodious building on the town-green. The 
 Guildhall, or Spire hotel, was erected by the fraternity 
 of guildry for holding their general meetings, and also 
 those of the county, but was never completed for that 
 purpose, and in 1820 it became the property of a few 
 individuals who converted it into an hotel. It is a 
 handsome building with a spire 132 feet high, from 
 which it takes its name ; and, in addition to its arrange- 
 ments as an hotel, contains a spacious hall fifty-two feet 
 long, thirty-five feet wide, and twenty-one feet high, 
 which is appropriated to various public purposes. The 
 new Gaol was built at an expense of £2070 ; it is three 
 stories high, and has eighteen cells, two apartments for 
 debtors, and accommodation for the gaoler. In 1847 an 
 act was passed for providing a court-hou.se at Dunferm- 
 line, to accommodate the courts of the sheriff and jus- 
 tices of the peace in the western district of Fife. 
 
 The PARISH is of irregular form, about eight miles in 
 average length and five in average breadth, comprising 
 23,040 acres, of which 19,296 are " landward". Of this 
 latter number, 13,391 acres are arable, about 3740 not 
 arable, 1135 woodland and plantations, and the remain- 
 der sites of buildings, water, and waste. The surface is 
 greatly diversified with bold undulations, rising in some 
 parts into hills of considerable elevation, the principal of 
 which are Beath and Craigluscar, the former clothed 
 with verdure to its summit, and commanding an exten- 
 sive prospect. The coast, reaching for about a mile and 
 a half along the Forth, is partly flat and partly high and 
 rocky. The chief streams that intersect the parish are 
 the Toicer burn and the Baldridge burn, both tributaries 
 of the Ljjne, which, after these accessions, becomes of 
 considerable size, and falls into the Firth at Charlestown. 
 In the northern part of the parish are several lakes, of 
 which the principal are, the Town loch, about a mile to 
 the north-east of the burgh, and one mile in circum- 
 ference ; Loch End, two miles north of the town, for- 
 merly of equal extent, but now much diminished ; Dun- 
 duff, a small sheet of water, three miles north of the 
 town, and abounding with trout, perch, and pike ; and 
 Loch Fitly, two miles north-east of the town, one mile 
 in length and half a mile in breadth, containing pike, 
 perch, and eels. Loch Gloe, or the White loch, in the 
 Cleish hills, two miles in circumference, and Black loch, 
 a little to the north-west of Loch Gloe, are partly in the 
 parish of Cleish, and both abound with pike, perch, and 
 trout. The soil is generally fertile, and the system of 
 agriculture in a highly improved state : the crops are 
 oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips, peas and 
 beans, with the various grasses ; and a considerable por- 
 tion of land is cultivated as orchards and gardens. The 
 farm-buildings are substantial and commodiously ar- 
 ranged ; the lands are well inclosed, and much waste 
 has been improved by draining, and brought into pro- 
 fitable cultivation. The cattle are chiefly of the Fifeshire 
 black breed, with some of the Teeswater on the dairy- 
 farms, of the former about 1500, and of the latter 500. 
 Few sheep are reared, but nearly 1400 are fed upon the
 
 D U N F 
 
 DU N F 
 
 pastures ; and there is a moderate number of swine. 
 The remains of old timber are not very extensive ; the 
 plautatious consist of oak, beech, elm, plane, ash, willow, 
 larch, and Scotch fir. 
 
 In this parish the substrata comprise coal and lime- 
 stone, which are extensively raised, whinstone, and sand- 
 stone : some, also, of the rocks are of the trap forma- 
 tion, and in one place display fine specimens of co- 
 lumnar basalt. The coalfields are very extensive, and 
 have been wrought from a remote period, first by the 
 abbot of Dunfermline, to whom William de OberwiU, 
 proprietor of Pittencrieff, in 1'291 granted the privilege 
 of working a pit on any part of his lands except what 
 was arable. It is, however, chiefly since the year 1*71 
 that they have been wrought to any great extent ; and it 
 is calculated that there are still 3000 acres unwrought in 
 the several fields in the parish. The coal, which is of the 
 usual varieties, and generally of good quality, occurs in 
 seams from a few inches to eight feet in thickness, at 
 depths of from fifteen to 105 fathoms below the surface. 
 The average quantity raised annually is 1"0,000 tons, 
 and the produce is conveyed by railroads from the pits 
 to the harbour of Charlestown, in this parish, and the 
 harbour of Inverkeithing, a parish adjoining, for exporta- 
 tion. Seventeen steam-engines are employed, varying 
 from twelve to 1'20 horse power; and '2910 persons, of 
 whom 1180 are engaged in working the mines. The 
 most extensive quarries of limestone are those on the 
 lands of Broomhall ; the stone occurs within a quarter 
 of a mile from the shore, in beds from twenty to fifty 
 feet in thickness, containing a great variety of fossil 
 remains, and the quantity annually raised is about 
 15,000 tons of stone, and about 400,000 bushels of 
 shells. The stone is conveyed from the quarries by a 
 railroad to Charlestown, where it is burnt into lime; 
 the rough stone is sent principally to Stirling, and the 
 shells to Dundee and the north. There are also cjuar- 
 ries at Roscobie and Lathalmond, the produce of which 
 is chiefly sold in the upper lands of the parish ; and 
 others on a smaller scale are worked at Sunnybank and 
 Craigluscar. The parish likewise contains several quar- 
 ries of freestone and trap ; ironstone occurs in the Elgin 
 coalfield, and was formerly wrought, and pyrites of iron 
 and of copi)er have been found. 
 
 Broomhall House, the pleasant and retired seat of the 
 Earl of Elgin, is a handsome mansion, beautifully situ- 
 ated on an eminence overlooking the village of Lime- 
 kilns, and surrounded by undulated grounds richly 
 wooded. The house contains a valuable collection of 
 paintings ; and here are preserved the sword and helmet 
 of King Robert Bruce, given to the late earl by Mrs. 
 Bruce of Clackmannan ; also the nuptial bed of Anne of 
 Denmark, queen of James VI., which was for some years 
 in the possession of an innkeeper in the town, who, a 
 short time before her death, presented it to the earl. 
 PitUver House, Keavil, and Pitjiiraiie are in the vicinity, 
 but they are undistinguished by any peculiarity of fea- 
 tures. PittcncrieJI' House was built in I6l0, by Sir Alex- 
 ander Clerk, lord provost of Edinburgh, whose armorial 
 bearings are over the doorway. Logie is a modern house, 
 in which is preserved a cabinet of richly- carved walnut, 
 formerly belonging to Anne of Denmark. Pitreavie 
 House was the ancient mansion of the Wardlaw family, 
 and Bulmule also belonged to them. The mansion of 
 The Hill is now occupied in several tenements. 
 Vol. I.— 337 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Dunfermline, synod of Fife ; 
 patron, the Crown. There are two ministers, each hav- 
 ing an avei-age stipend of £'280; the minister of the 
 first charge has also a manse, and an arable glebe, with 
 allowance for pasture, but to the second charge there is 
 attached neither manse nor glebe. The principal of the 
 two incumbencies is filled by the Rev. Peter Chalmers, 
 A. M., author of the highly valuable Historical and Sta- 
 tistical Account of Dunfermline, published in 1S44, and 
 whose accurate description of the Dunfermline coalfield, 
 reprinted in that work, was honoured with one of the 
 premiums of the Highland and Agricultural Society of 
 Scotland. Dunfermline church, once a portion of the 
 ancient abbey, and but ill adapted to its purpose, was 
 rebuilt in 18'21 to the east of the former nave, which is 
 now its western approach. It is an elegant cruciform 
 structure in the later English style, with a square em- 
 battled tower rising from the centre of the transepts to 
 the height of 100 feet, and ornamented with pinnacles : 
 the parapet is surmounted with crowns, and pierced 
 with openings representing the letters of the legend 
 " King Robert the Bruce", whose tomb lies immediately 
 beneath. The interior is finely arranged ; the nave is 
 separated from the aisles by handsome clustered columns 
 with decorated capitals, surmounted by gracefully-pointed 
 arches supporting the groined roof, which is ornamented 
 with shields at the intersections of the ribs. This part 
 of the church is lighted by a range of elegant clerestory 
 windows, enriched with tracery ; the east window is of 
 large dimensions and of beautiful design, and the aisles 
 and transepts are lighted by windows of corresponding 
 character. Immediately under the tower is the pulpit, 
 in front of the slabs covering the tomb of Bruce, and 
 behind an open space reserved for an appropriate monu- 
 ment. Tlie church contains 1400 available sittings, and 
 was completed at an expense of £11,000. 
 
 A church dedicated to St. Andrew was built in 1833, 
 to replace an old chapel of ease which had become dila- 
 pidated ; and in 1835 a district of the parish, about 
 half a mile in length and a quarter of a mile in breadth, 
 containing a population of 3000, was assigned to it by the 
 General Assembly, and for a short time formed a " quoad 
 sacra" parish. It is a neat edifice containing 797 sit- 
 tings, and was erected at a cost of £1560, partly by sub- 
 scription. The minister's stipend is £1'20, derived from ■ 
 the seat-rents and collections, with a house and garden. 
 An extension church, also, was erected at the east end 
 of Golfdrum in 1840, at an expense of £1673, of which 
 £100'2 were raised by subscription; and a "quoad 
 sacra" district in the neighbourhood, with a population 
 of about 3000, was attached to it : the edifice contains 
 800 sittings, and the minister has a guaranteed stipend 
 of £80, but rising with the increase of seat-rents and 
 collections. There was till 1843 a " quoad sacra " church 
 in Canmore-street ; but on the induction of its minister 
 to the parish of Thurso, the congregation dispersed, and 
 a Free church was built on its site in 1844. The parish 
 likewise contains several places of worship for the United 
 Presbyterian Synod, one of which was the first Relief 
 meeting-house in Scotland ; <me each for Baptists and 
 Independents ; and an Episcopalian chapel. 
 
 The burgh grammar school is of uncertain founda- 
 tion, though said to have been originally dependent on 
 the monastery : Anne of Denmark, queen of James VI., 
 
 '2 X
 
 D U N F 
 
 D UN I 
 
 granted to the town council £^000 Scots for its sup- 
 port ia 1610. Tiie buildings consist of two class-rooms, 
 and a good dwelling-house for the rector, who has a 
 small salary in addition to the fees ; there is also 
 a small bequest for an usher, but none is now appointed, 
 the rector preferring to select and pay his own assistant. 
 The commercial school under the patronage of the 
 Fraternity of Guildry, and for which an appropriate 
 building was erected in 1816 at their expense, contains 
 two rooms, one for English reading, grammar, and geo- 
 graphy, and the other for writing, arithmetic, mathe- 
 matics, and the classics ; it is superintended by two mas- 
 ters, each of whom has a dwelling-house and garden 
 rent free, in addition to the fees. About 200 children 
 attend a school at Priory Lane, in which formerly fifty 
 children were taught gratuitously from the proceeds of 
 £1000 bequeathed by Adam Rolland, Esq., of Gask, 
 and now lost ; it is supported chietiy by very moderate 
 fees. There is also a school at Golfdrum, opened in 
 1842, in which about forty children are instructed from 
 the proceeds of a bequest by the Rev. Allan Mc Lean, 
 minister of the parish : it is named the IMc Lean school, 
 and has four class-rooms and a good dwelling-house for 
 the teacher. The total number of schools, including 
 infant and female schools, is about thirty-two, and of 
 scholars 2700 ; besides many Sunday schools. There 
 are numerous friendly societies, and institutions for hu- 
 mane and charitable purposes, with a flourishing savings' 
 bank. 
 
 The ancient monastery continued till the Reforma- 
 tion, when its revenue was estimated at £2513 Scots ; 
 the last abbot was George Dury, who died in 1561 or 
 1564, and was succeeded, as commendator, by Robert 
 Pitcairn, secretary of state to James VI., who died in 
 1584. In 1593, the abbacy was erected into a temporal 
 lordship, and perpetually annexed to the crown, by act 
 of parliament. Of this once magnificent structure the 
 principal remains are, the western portion of the abbey 
 church, which is still entire, and presents a noble speci- 
 men of the later Normau style, with lofty massive 
 columns and circular arches, and a timber-frame roof ; 
 the south wall of the roofless refectory, in which is a 
 range of nine lofty windows ; the western gable of the 
 refectory, with a handsome large window of seven lights, 
 enriched with flowing tracery ; and the two towers at 
 the entrance, one of which, north of the gable, and 
 crowned with a low pyramidal spire, is entire, while the 
 other, south-west of the gable, and under which is a 
 spacious gateway, is partly in ruins. The great western 
 doorway of the church, of receding arches enriched with 
 zigzag mouldings, resting on a series of massive columns 
 with flowered capitals, is a beautiful specimen of the 
 later Norman style ; and the north porch, though ex- 
 ternally of plainer character, combines in the interior 
 numerous minutely elegant details. In the abbey of 
 Dunfermline w'ere interred the remains of Malcolm 
 Canmore and his queen, Margaret ; his sons, Edward, 
 Edgar, and Alexander I. ; David I. ; Jlalcolm IV. ; 
 Alexander III. and his queen, Margaret; Robert the 
 Bruce and his queen, Elizabeth; the queen of Robert 
 III. ; and many of the ancient nobility of Scotland. 
 Before the erection of the present new church, six very 
 large slabs were to be seen, supposed to indicate the 
 royal sepulchres ; and on digging the foundations of 
 this church, in 1819, there was discovered to the south 
 338 
 
 of the slabs, a vault containing the skeleton of Robert 
 Bruce, encased in two coverings of thin sheet lead, 
 round which was wrapped a shroud of cloth of gold, 
 the whole inclosed in a strong coffin of oak which had 
 mouldered into dust. After due examination, and a 
 careful and scrutinizing investigation of the minutest 
 circumstances, which fully proved the identity of the 
 body, the bones were replaced in their natural position, 
 and, being wrapped in the original covering of lead, 
 and deposited in a leaden coffin into which melted pitch 
 was poured, were then reinterred in the very spot 
 in which they had been found, in the choir of the 
 ancient abbey, and immediately under the tower of the 
 present church. On the lid of the coffin is the inscrip- 
 tion, in raised letters. King Robert Bruce, under which 
 are the dates 1329 and ISI9. Upon the south-east 
 side of the ravine, and north from the mound crossing 
 it, on which part the town stands, is the cave of St. 
 Margaret, to which that queen was in the habit of re- 
 tiring for private devotions ; it is an excavation in the 
 rock, about twelve feet long and eight feet wide, and 
 though of natural formation appears to have been 
 adapted by art for that purpose. There are still some 
 remains of the ancient Palace, consisting chiefly of the 
 south-west wall and part of the eastern end of the 
 building. The wall, which overlooks the glen, is 205 
 feet in length, sixty feet in height, and supported by 
 buttresses ; and in the ceiling of an oriel window near 
 the south-eastern extremity, is a sculpture in bass- 
 relief of the Annunciation, which was discovered during 
 some repairs in 1812. At the south-eastern angle of 
 the wall, a flight of steps leads down to a vaulted apart- 
 ment called the Magazine from its having been used by 
 the military, in the rebellion of 1745, as a store-room 
 for their ammunition. There are remains of numerous 
 chapels in the parish ; and traces of the ancient walls 
 surrounding the town, and vestiges of the gates, may 
 also still be discovered. Dunfermline gives the title of 
 Baron to the family of Abercromby. 
 
 DUNINO, a parish, in the district of St. Andrew's^^ 
 county of Fife, 4 miles (S. E.) from St. Andrew's ; 
 containing, with the district of Kingsmuir, 471 inhabit- 
 ants. Dunino obviously derives its name from the 
 Gaelic appellation of a nunnery which was situated on 
 the highest eminence in the parish, 300 feet above the 
 level of the sea ; and the foundation stones of which 
 were removed in 1815. The parish is about three miles 
 long and as many broad, comprising nearly 3275 acres, 
 whereof 2SS0 are arable, 270 woodland, and the remainder 
 waste that might be cultivated. Its surface approaches to 
 level, and is intersected by three streamlets, in which 
 are excellent trout, and which, after their junction, form 
 the burn of Kenly, and surrender their waters to the 
 German Ocean. The soil is mostly fertile, producing 
 good crops of wheat, oats, barley, peas, beans, potatoes, 
 and turnips, with the various grasses ; and the pastures 
 are lu.xuriantly rich. The system of husbandry is ad- 
 vanced : the lands have been drained, and inclosed with 
 fences of stone ; the farm-houses are well built, and 
 roofed with slate, and on many of the farms are thresh- 
 ing-mills of the most approved construction. In general 
 the cattle are of the Fifeshire black breed, with a few of 
 the Ayrshire ; the sheep are the Linton or Northumber- 
 land, and considerable numbers of swine are also fed on 
 the several farms. The annual value of real property in
 
 D U N I 
 
 DUNI 
 
 the parish is £2965. The plantations on the banks of 
 one of the rivulets contain a great variety of hard-wood 
 trees, and those in other parts of the parish consist of 
 larch and Scotch fir, all in a very flourishing state. 
 Though Dunino is situated on the great coal basin of 
 Scotland, it has been found more profitable to obtain 
 that fuel from St. Andrew's or Anstruther than to work 
 it. The rocks in the parish comprise white sandstone, 
 of fine texture, and admirable quality for building ; red 
 sandstone is found in regular strata, and limestone 
 forms the bed of one of the streamlets ; disintegrated 
 trap, intersected with veins of felspar, occurs in one 
 place, and ironstone has been found in considerable 
 quantities. Fairs are held at Kingsmuir in May and 
 October. There are several post-oflices within less than 
 five miles of the church, and facilities of communication 
 with St. Andrew's, Anstruther, Cupar, and other towns, 
 are afforded by good turnpike-roads. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of 
 the presbytery of St. Andrew's, synod of Fife. The 
 minister's stipend is £19i?. 16., with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £28 per annum ; patrons, the Principal 
 and Professors of the United College of St. Andrew's. 
 Dunino church is a handsome structure erected in 1826, 
 and contains 224 sittings. The parochial school affords 
 instruction to about forty children ; the master's salary 
 is £34, with a house and garden, and the fees average 
 £16. Until within the last few years there were some 
 ruins of the ancient castle of Draffan, supposed to be 
 of Danish origin, and also of that of Stravithy. There 
 are still remains of the castle of Pittairthy, in the south 
 of the parish, commanding an extensive view of the 
 sea ; the eastern, or more modern, portion of this build- 
 ing has the date 16.53, and is supposed to have been 
 built by Sir William Bruce of Kinross : though un- 
 roofed, the walls are in good preservation. Near the 
 garden of the manse are some remains of a Druidical 
 circle ; and about a mile to the west is a farm called 
 Pittan-Druidh, or the grave of the Druids. Some cop- 
 per coins of Charles 1., Charles IL, and William and 
 Mary, were lately found in a grave in the churchyard : 
 two coins of Philip II. of Spain were also dug up in the 
 parish, one of gold and the other of silver, supposed to 
 have been originally found in the wreck of a vessel 
 belonging to the Spanish armada; and in 1836, an urn 
 containing ashes was ploughed up in a field on the 
 lands of Balcaithly. Among the most distinguished 
 characters connected with the parish, were, John Fordun, 
 author of the Scoto-chroiticoii ; John Winram, sub-prior 
 of St. Andrew's ; and the Rev. James Wood, who was 
 one of the commissioners that brought Charles II. from 
 the continent at the Restoration. Sir Robert Aytoun, 
 author of the celebrated poems, and secretary to the 
 queens of James VI. and Charles I., was a native of 
 Dunino : an improved edition of the poems was lately 
 published by the Rev. Charles Roger, also a native of 
 the parish. 
 A DUNIPACE, a parish, ecclesiastically united to the 
 ^ parish of Larbert, in the county of Stirling, 4 miles 
 (VV. by N.) from Falkirk ; containing, with the villages 
 of Herbertshire, Denovan, and Torwood, 1578 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom 562 are in the rural districts. The name, 
 of Celtic origin, is derived from two mounds, by some 
 writers supposed to signify "the Hills of Peace", and by 
 others " the Hills of Death ". Dunipace is of remote 
 339 
 
 antiquity, and has been the scene of numerous important 
 events, the last of which was the signature, on one of 
 these hills, of a treaty of peace by Edward 1. of England 
 in 1301. The place is bounded on the south by the 
 river Carron, and is of triangular form, comprising 
 about 5S00 acres, of which 4800 are arable, 630 wood- 
 land and plantations, and the remainder moor, moss, and 
 waste. Its surface towards the west rises to an eleva- 
 tion of 600 feet above the Forth ; towards the east it 
 terminates in the Carse of Stirling ; and in addition to 
 the artificial mounds from which the parish takes its 
 name, and which are about sixty feet in height, there 
 was formerly another, about two miles to the west, having 
 an elevation of forty feet, but which has been entirely 
 removed within the last few years. The soil is gene- 
 rally light and dry, with some tracts of clay : the crops 
 are, wheat, which has been lately introduced and grows 
 well, barley, oats, turnips, and potatoes ; and a large 
 proportion of the surface is in pasture. The cattle are 
 mostly of small size, as best adapted to the land, whether 
 for feeding or for the dairy ; the farms are of mode- 
 rate extent, and under good management. A farmers' 
 society was established in 1839, for the encouragement 
 of agriculture and the improvement of the breed of 
 cattle ; and a ploughing-match and a cattle-show are 
 held yearly, when prizes are awarded to the successful 
 competitors. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £7594. 
 
 The plantations are generally thriving ; and there are 
 considerable remains of the ancient forest of Torwood, 
 where, till within the last thirty or forty years, was a 
 stately oak, in the hollow trunk of which, twelve feet in 
 diameter, the celebrated Wallace and his companions 
 occasionally held meetings, to concert measures for res- 
 cuing their country from the tyranny of Edward I. of 
 England. Herbertshire Castle, a very ancient structure 
 of unknown date, supposed to have been originally a 
 royal hunting-seat, is beautifully situated on the north 
 bank of the Carron, in an extensive demesne, richly 
 wooded, and tastefully laid out in walks commanding 
 much picturesque scenery. Dunipace House, a hand- 
 some modern mansion, is finely situated near the site of 
 the old church ; and Quarter House, also a good re- 
 sidence, is sheltered by thriving plantations. Carbrook 
 House is romantically situated within a short distance 
 of Torwood Castle, from the woods of which it derives 
 much additional beauty to its scenery. Facility of com- 
 munication with Falkirk and other towns in the vicinity 
 is afforded by excellent roads. Abridge of three arches 
 was erected in 1828, to replace one of inconvenient con- 
 struction which had become insecure from its antiquity; 
 and there is a handsome bridge leading to Dunipace 
 House, built over the river Carron, a little below the 
 ancient ford, in the year 1824. The Scottish Central 
 railway also presents facility of intercourse. For eccle- 
 siastical purposes the parish, which about the year 1620 
 was united to that of Larbert, is within the bounds of 
 the presbytery of Stirling, synod of Perth and Stirling. 
 The minister, who officiates in both places, has a total 
 stipend of £272, with a good manse in Larbert, and a 
 glebe, the common property of the two parishes, valued 
 at £26. 10. per annum ; patron, the Crown. Dunipace 
 old church was taken down from apprehension of inse- 
 curity, and the present church erected on a site about a 
 mile and a half to the west, in 1834, at a cost of £2500 ; 
 
 2X2
 
 DUNK 
 
 DUNK 
 
 it is a handsome structure in the later English style, 
 with a square embattled tower, and contains 604 sit- 
 tings. The members of the Free Church have a place 
 of worship. The parochial school is attended by about 
 sixty children ; the master has a salary of £34, with a 
 house and garden, and the fees average £15. William 
 Simpson, Esq., of Plean, bequeathed £500 to the Kirk 
 Session for the benefit of the poor. There are some 
 remains of Torwood Castle to the west of the turnpike- 
 road leading from Falkirk to Stirling. The history of 
 this structure, which is surrounded by the remains of the 
 ancient Caledonian forest, is involved in much obscurity : 
 the lands attached to it were purchased from one of 
 the Lords Forrester by the late Thomas Dundas, Esq., 
 grandfather of Colonel Dundas, of Carron Hall, the pre- 
 sent proprietor. 
 
 Obverse, 
 
 Reverse. 
 
 Seal. 
 
 fh DUNKELD and DOWALLY, a parish, in the county 
 of Perth, 15 miles (N. by W.) from Perth, and 55 (N. 
 N. W.) from Edinburgh ; comprising the ancient city of 
 Dunkeld, partly within the parish of Caputh ; for many 
 years the seat of the primacy of the kingdom prior to 
 Its removal to St. Andrew's, and now the seat of a pres- 
 bytery; and containing in the parish 1752 inhabitants, 
 of whom 1096 are in the town. This place, which is of 
 very remote origin, and is supposed to have been the 
 capital of the ancient Caledonia, appears to have derived 
 its name from the erection of a castle or stronghold, 
 towards the close of the fifth century, on an eminence 
 commanding the passes of the vale of Atholl, and still 
 called the King's Seat, from its having been the resort 
 of some of the earlier monarchs when partaking in the 
 diversion of the chase. There are yet remains of this 
 ancient fortress ; and near the site, Mary, Queen of 
 Scots, narrowly escaped a serious injury from one of 
 the herd, while witnessing a chase, for the celebration 
 I if which the Earl of Atholl had employed 2000 of his 
 Highlanders to collect the deer of the central Highlands. 
 A MONASTERY was fouudcd here about the year 570 for 
 brethren of the order of St. Coluniba, subordinate to 
 the abbey of lona, over which that saint at the time 
 ])resided ; and Kentigern and Columba remained for 
 s^ome mouths at this place, for the instruction of the 
 people of the surrounding district, who assembled in 
 great numbers to hear them. The establishment was 
 placed under the superintendence of an abbot, many of 
 whose successors held the most distinguished offices in 
 the state ; and the brethren, who are identified with the 
 ancient Culdees, employed themselves chiefly in teaching 
 and transcribing the sacred Scriptures, and had no com- 
 ni'iniou with the Church of Rome. Originally of rude 
 construction, the monastery was rebuilt with stone about 
 340 
 
 the year 729, and continued to advance in importance. 
 Numerous dwellings gradually arose in the immediate ^ 
 vicinity ; and in S34 the town had so much increased 
 in extent, that Brudus, King of the Picts, with a nu- 
 merous army, after crossing the Tay, found sufficient 
 accommodation in the town and castle preparatory to 
 his battle with Alpinus, King of the Scots, at Angus. 
 
 In S45, the Danes, on their march to plunder the 
 monastery, were encountered near Dunkeld by Kenneth 
 Mc Alpine, who defeated them with considerable loss; 
 but in 905, again advancing for the same purpose, they 
 succeeded in plundering the monastery and laying waste 
 the town. In the reign of Kenneth III., a numerous 
 army of Danes, in a third attempt to commit the same 
 depredations, were intercepted on their march by that 
 monarch, who, in a severe conflict near Luncarty, a few 
 miles from Perth, defeated them with great slaughter. 
 The buildings connected with the monastery still in- 
 creased ; and the relics of St. Columba were removed 
 from lona, and deposited in a church erected here and 
 dedicated to his memory by Kenneth Mc Alpine, after 
 he had united the Scots and Picts into one kingdom. 
 St. Columba thus became the patron saint of Dunkeld 
 and its church. The Culdees continued their establish- 
 ment under a superior of their own nomination, and in 
 the parish of Dovvally and other places in the district had 
 various smaller institutions, till they were superseded by 
 canons regular. David I., in 1127, converted the mo- 
 nastery into a cathedral establishment, and made Dun- 
 keld the seat of a diocese, which retained the primacy 
 of the kingdom until the distinction was transferred to 
 the see of St. Andrew's in the reign of James III. It 
 has been thought that David e.xpelled the Culdees in 
 1 127 to make room for a bishop, but it appears that he 
 guaranteed to them during life the rights and possessions 
 which belonged to their ancient abbey : in a short time, 
 however, they lost the nomination of their superior, that 
 privilege passing over to the canons regular. The pre- 
 lates of Dunkeld were much e.xposed to the aggressions 
 of the heads of the Highland clans in the vicinity of the 
 diocese, with whom a constant state of warfare was 
 maintained. The revenues of the see were frequently 
 intercepted by armed bands who waylaid the bishops' 
 officers, and carried them off by violence; and such of 
 the lands belonging to the bishops as were contiguous 
 to the estates of the Highland chiefs were either seized 
 and appropriated to their own use, or plundered and 
 laid waste. The bishops were assaulted even while offi- 
 ciating in the cathedral ; and those who ventured to 
 resist, or bring to punishment, the leaders by whom 
 these outrages were perpetrated, were beset by parties 
 against whose hostile attacks they were compelled to 
 defend themselves by a numerous retinue of armed 
 attendants. 
 
 In the reign of James II., the Earl of Atholl, nephew 
 of that monarch, assembled the canons of the abbey, 
 and requested them to appoint his brother, Andrew 
 Stuart, though not in full orders, successor to the see, 
 which had become vacant by the death of Bishop Brown. 
 With this request they thought proper, through intimi- 
 dation, to comply ; but the election was afterwards abro- 
 gated by Pope Leo X., and Gavin Douglas, uncle of the 
 Earl of Angus, was appointed, whose arrival to take pos- 
 session of the see caused the servants of Stuart to fly to 
 arms, and seize upon the palace and the tower of the
 
 DUNK 
 
 DUNK 
 
 cathedral, whence they discharged a volley of shot 
 against the house of the dean, to which Douglas had 
 retired to receive the homage of the clergy. On the 
 following day, the city was filled with the armed adhe- 
 rents of both parties, and a dreadful scene of violence 
 ensued. At length, Stuart, finding it impossible to re- 
 lieve his men in the palace, was compelled to abandon 
 it ; and having no hope of retaining the prelacy, he re- 
 tired on condition of being allowed to hold that portion 
 of the bishop's rents which he had already received, and 
 also the churches of Alyth and Cargill, on payment 
 annually of a trifling acknowledgment. From this time 
 the see remained undisturbed till the Reformation. 
 
 The church erected by Kenneth Mc Alpine in 845 
 continued to be the cathedral till 1318, when the choir 
 of a more spacious and elegant structure was completed 
 by Bishop Sinclair, and appropriated to that purpose. 
 In 1406 a nave was added to the building by Bishop 
 Cardney, and the remainder of the church was completed 
 in 1464 by Bishop Lauder, who also erected the lofty 
 tower of the cathedral, and built the chapter-house, in 
 1469. The episcopal palace, to the south-west of the 
 cathedral church, was formerly defended by a castle, 
 erected in 1408, of which at present nothing remains; 
 in 1508, a wing was added to the palace, and a hand- 
 some chapel built immediately adjoining it. The bishops 
 had palaces also at Cluny, Perth, and Edinburgh, with 
 ample revenues ; and at the time of the Reformation, 
 the church of Dunkeld was valued at £1600 per annum. 
 In 1560, a commission was issued by the Lords of Con- 
 gregation for purifying the church, by removing the 
 altars, images, and other idolatrous ornaments, and burn- 
 ing them in the churchyard ; and in their zeal to fulfil 
 this commission, the mob destroyed the whole of the 
 interior of that beautiful and venerable structure of 
 which the ruins display the stately magnificence, and 
 left nothing entire but the walls. These, too, were sub- 
 sequently stripped of their roof, and have since remained 
 in a state of dreary ruin, with the exception only of the 
 choir, which in 1600 was roofed with slate at the ex- 
 pense of the family of Stuart of Ladywell, and has been 
 appropriated as the parish church. By acts of the Ge- 
 neral Assembly in 1586 and 1593, the city was made 
 the seat of a presbytery. There is still a bishop, though 
 of course unconnected with the Established Church of 
 Scotland, who presides over the episcopal churches in the 
 diocese of St. Andrew's, Dunkeld, and Dunblane. 
 
 After the battle of Killiecrankie, in 1689, the Highland 
 troops of Viscount Dundee, who had been killed in that 
 conflict, advanced to the city, then garrisoned by the 
 newly-raised Cameronian regiment; and after a severe 
 struggle, the Highlanders obtained possession of many 
 of the houses, from which they made frequent discharges 
 of musketry upon the Cameronian soldiers, who, in order 
 to dislodge them, set fire to the buildings. The whole 
 of the town, with the exception of the cathedral and 
 three houses, was burnt ; and the inhabitants were com- 
 pelled to take refuge iu the church. On the Highlanders 
 retiring, preparations were made to meet a second attack, 
 but none was attempted. In 1703, the Marquess of 
 Atholl was elevated to the rank of duke by Queen Anne, 
 who is said to have subsequently paid a visit to that 
 nobleman, first at Blair-Atholl, and then at Dunkeld 
 House, to confer with him on matters connected with 
 the uni(m of the two kingdoms ; and in corroboration 
 341 
 
 of the event a state room in the castle at the former 
 place is still called Queen Anne's bedchamber. On the 
 breaking out of the rebellion of 1745, the Marquess of 
 Tullibardine, accompanied by the Pretender, whose cause 
 he had embraced, took temporary possession of Blair 
 Castle, in the absence of his younger brother, the Duke 
 of Atholl, and sent the Lords Nairn and Lochiel to pro- 
 claim the prince at the market-cross at Dunkeld. Early 
 in the following year, the Duke of Cumberland stationed 
 part of his forces at Blair-Atholl and in the city, which 
 posts, after his departure, were occupied by bodies of 
 Hessian troops, betweeen whom and the Atholl High- 
 landers frequent skirmishes took place in the neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 In September, 1842, Her Majesty the Queen, while 
 visiting her Scottish dominions, made an excursion to 
 Dunkeld House, attended by Prince Albert, and was met 
 on the boundary of the estate by a numerous guard of 
 the Atholl Highlanders, who escorted the royal visiters 
 to the park. Here Lord Glenlyon (now Duke of Atholl), 
 at the head of his Highland regiment, received the 
 Queen, and then conducted her to the tent which had 
 been erected for her reception on the lawn to the north- 
 west of the cathedral, a spot commanding a splendid 
 view of the wildly romantic and beautifully picturesque 
 scenery for which the place is so highly celebrated. Her 
 Majesty reviewed the regiment, and passing along the 
 line formed by the various local societies that had been 
 assembled in the park, retired into the tent, where a 
 sumptuous collation was served ; after which the officers 
 of the Atholl clan were severally introduced to the 
 Queen, and had the honour of kissing hands. Having 
 remained for a few hours at Dunkeld, Her Majesty took 
 her departure for Breadalbane, escorted by the Hon. 
 Capt. Murray, who rode by the side of the royal carriage 
 to the boundary of the Atholl estate, a distance of thir- 
 teen miles, pointing out by name to the Queen the 
 various objects of interest. In 1844, Her Majesty, on 
 her second trip to Scotland, to visit Lord Glenlyon (the 
 present duke) at Blair Castle, passed again through the 
 ancient city of Dunkeld. 
 
 The TOWN is beautifully situated on the north bank of ^ 
 the river Tay, over which is a noble bridge of five open 
 arches (the central arch having a span of ninety feet, 
 and the two on each side of eighty-four and seventy-four 
 feet) with two dry arches of twenty-five feet span ; the 
 whole erected in 1809, by the fourth Duke of Atholl, at 
 an expense of £30,000, of which £5000 were granted by 
 government. From the centre of the bridge is a fine 
 view of the city. Dunkeld comprises a spacious street 
 of handsome modern houses, extending from the bridge 
 along the line of the great north road from Perth to 
 Inverness ; and a street of more ancient but still well- 
 built houses crosses the former at right angles, in the 
 market-place, from which the old cross was removed 
 about the commencement of the present century. Near 
 the cathedral is the deanery, the only house now remain- 
 ing of the three saved from the conflagration in 16S9. 
 There is a public library, called the Mackintosh library, 
 which originated in a gift to the town by the Rev. Do- 
 nald Mackintosh, in 1811 ; it is under the direction of 
 a committee of curators, and the collection at present 
 consists of more than '2000 volumes. The manufacture 
 of linen and the tanning of leather, formerly carried on 
 to a considerable extent, have been discoatiuued, and
 
 DUNK 
 
 DUNK 
 
 the chief trade at present is the making of shoes. Many 
 of the poorer classes are employed during the spring and 
 summer months in the peeling of oak, and at other times 
 in agriculture and in the slate-quarries ; there are also a 
 distillery, a public brewery, several malting establish- 
 ments, and a saw mill, affording occupation to a mode- 
 rate number of persons. Three banks have agencies 
 here. Since the erection of the bridge a very great in- 
 crease has taken place in the general traffic of the town 
 and neighbourhood. There are now two spacious hotels 
 with posting establishments, for the reception of visiters 
 whom the beauty of the scenery and the numerous ob- 
 jects of deep interest in the vicinity attract ; and several 
 lodging-houses are occupied by families and individuals 
 who during the summer months make this their residence. 
 The post-office has a good delivery. In 1846 an act of 
 parliament was passed authorizing the construction of a 
 branch to Dunkeld of the Perth and Forfar railway. The 
 market, which is amply supplied with provisions of every 
 kind, is on Saturday ; and fairs for cattle and horses, 
 and for hiring farm-servants, are held on February 14th, 
 March 'JSth, April .5th, June 9th, and the second Tues- 
 day in November. The police is under the management 
 of an officer appointed by the Duke of Atholl as here- 
 ditary lord of the barony. A court for the recovery of 
 small debts is held quarterly under the sheriff, and the 
 county magistrates for the district hold their courts here, 
 in the Masons' lodge, in which also public meetings are 
 held, and the general business of the town is transacted. 
 The old prison was taken down in 1743, and one of the 
 dry arches of the bridge was subsequently inclosed and 
 fitted up for the temporary confinement of offenders. 
 
 The PARISH is situated on the north side of the vale 
 of Atholl, and extends for more than si.x miles along the 
 bank of the Tay, varying in breadth, and comprising 
 about 12,000 acres, of which 1200 are arable, 300 pasture, 
 10,000 woodland and plantations, and the remainder 
 covered with water. Its surface is strikingly diversified 
 with hills of precipitous elevation and fantastic form, the 
 steep acclivities of which are indented with deep ravines, 
 and which vary in height from 1000 to 2000 feet above 
 the level of the sea, rising abruptly from a narrow tract 
 of shelving low land apparently gained by embankment 
 from the river. These hills were planted with larch-trees 
 by the fourth Duke of Atholl, and form an extensive 
 forest, nearly fourteen miles in length from Craig-y-barns, 
 opposite the King's Seat, which has an elevation of 1000 
 feet above the sea 3 and varying from three to six miles in 
 breadth. On the summit of the hill of Duchray, which 
 rises to a height of I9OO feet, is a lake about half a mile 
 in circumference, abounding with perch. Upon the hill 
 of Ordie, at an elevation of 700 feet, is another, several 
 miles in circumference, in which are trout of excellent 
 quality. In the barony of Dulcapon is Loch Broom, 
 also containing trout ; and at Rotmel are two lakes, in 
 which perch are found. The soil in the lower lands is 
 thin and light, but on the acclivities of the hills richer, 
 and slightly intermixed with clay ; producing good crops 
 of oats and barley, with turnips and potatoes. The state 
 of husbandry has been greatly improved, and an agricul- 
 tural society for the district established ; the lands have 
 been drained and inclosed ; the farm-buildings and offices 
 are of stone, roofed with slate, and are comfortable and 
 well arranged. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £6073. The substratum is principally clay- 
 342 
 
 slate, of which the rocks are composed, and which is 
 remarkable chiefly for the irregularity of its formation. 
 On the eastern base of the hill of Craig-y-barns, a small 
 vein of copper-ore was discovered, but it has not been 
 wrought ; and in a bank of sand about twenty feet above 
 the level of the river Tay, in the lands of Dowally, some 
 grains of gold were found, of which ornaments were 
 made ; but the quantity obtained was so small, in com- 
 parison with the expense of extracting it, that all attempts 
 have been abandoned. Pearls of good colour and form, 
 though coarse, are found in the muscles of the Tay, and 
 occasionally some of finer quality and of great value. 
 
 The present Dunkeld House, one of the seats of the 
 Murray family, now in an unfinished state, was com- 
 menced by the fourth Duke of Atholl not long before his 
 death in 1830, after which event the building was dis- 
 continued. The mansion had been raised to the second 
 story ; an elegant family chapel, the grand staircase, and 
 a gallery ninety-six feet in length had been nearly com- 
 pleted ; and in this state, with a temporary roof to pro- 
 tect the walls from injury, the structure, which is in the 
 later English style of architecture, was suffered to remain. 
 It is situated in a park of no great extent, but pre-emi- 
 nent for the unrivalled beauty of its scenery, and for the 
 extensive views it commands over the rich vale of Atholl 
 and the river Tay on the one side, and the majestic forest 
 and wildly mountainous district on the other. Within 
 the park are the stately remains of the venerable abbey 
 of Dunkeld, with which the style of the mansion is in 
 pleasing harmony. The grounds of Dunkeld House are 
 laid out with great taste and effect, and combine every 
 possible variety of deeply-interesting features. Near the 
 remains of the cathedral are two fine larch-trees, the first 
 that were introduced into Britain, having been brought 
 from the Tyrol by Mr. Menzies, of Culdares, in the year 
 173s : they were reared in the greenhouse, and planted 
 not far from the old mansion about the same time as 
 those in the Monzie gardens, near Crieff; they have 
 attained a height of about ninety feet, with proportionate 
 girth, and are apparently in a state of progressive in- 
 crease. The village of DowaUy, which is five miles north 
 from the town, consists of a few houses near the church 
 of that name, with one good inn. There is also the 
 small village of Kindallachan. 
 
 The parish of Dowally and the ancient city of Dun- 
 keld both formed originally part of the extensive parish 
 of Caputh, from which they were separated in 1500, and 
 erected into a distinct parish. The minister's stipend is 
 £166, with an allowance of £63 in lieu of manse and 
 glebe ; patron, the Duke of Atholl. The choir of the 
 CATHEDRAL was repaired, and fitted up for public wor- 
 ship, at the expense of the Murray family, about the 
 j-ear I69I ; and in 1S20 it was thoroughly repaired, 
 and, with some trifling exceptions, restored to its original 
 state by the fourth duke, at a cost of £5400, towards 
 which £1000 were granted by government. The interior 
 contains 655 sittings. On each side of the cathedral is 
 a range of seven arches, supported on low massive Nor- 
 man columns, above which are a triforium of similar 
 character, and a range of clerestory windows of the early 
 English style. In the choir was formerly a recumbent 
 figure of Alister More Mac an Righ, son of King Robert 
 II., and known as the Wolf of Badenoch ; it is now- 
 placed in the vestibule, in which also is a tablet to the 
 memory of the Rev. John Robb, minister of Dunkeld, 
 
 j:
 
 DUNK 
 
 DUNK 
 
 who was wrecked in the Forfarshire steamer in 1838. 
 In the north wall of the choir is a tablet to Thomas 
 Bisset, commissary of Dunkeld ; and in the south aisle 
 of the cathedral is the monument of Bishop Cardney, on 
 which is his effigy in a recumbent posture, under a 
 crocketed canopy. The statue of Bishop Sinclair, of 
 which the head has been broken off, is in one of the 
 aisles ; and within the walls of the cathedral are also 
 tombstones of the dean of Dunkeld in 14/6, and the 
 rector of Monedie in 1548. The portions of the cathe- 
 dral not comprised in the modern parish church are 
 roofless, and falling into decay ; the walls of the aisles 
 are strengthened with buttresses between the windows, 
 terminating in crocketed pinnacles above the parapet, 
 and at the west end of the nave is the lofty tower, ninety- 
 six feet high, with an octagonal turret of great beauty. 
 The Chapter-house, which has been appropriated as a 
 sepulchral chapel for the Murray family, contains a mar- 
 ble statue of John, fourth Duke of AthoU, attired in his 
 parliamentary robes, erected by his duchess in 1833; a 
 monument to the Marquess of AthoU, on which the seve- 
 ral quarterings of his connexions are emblazoned ; and a 
 tablet inscribed to the memory of Lord Charles Murray, 
 who died in Greece. There are places of worship for 
 Episcopalians, members of the Free Church, and Inde- 
 pendents. The church of Dowally was erected in 18'iO, 
 on the site of the old church, founded by Bishop Brown ; 
 it is a neat structure containing 250 sittings, to which 
 eighty might be added, and on the east wall of the build- 
 ing are the armorial bearings of Bishop Brown. Divine 
 service is performed at Dowally every Sunday by the 
 assistant minister of Dunkeld. 
 
 The Royal Grammar School was founded in 1567, by 
 James VI., who granted funds for its support, from 
 which the rector derives a salary of £5. 13. 4., in addi- 
 tion to the scholars' fees and a house rent free. The 
 presentation is vested in the Murray family, subject to 
 the approval of the synod of Perth and Stirling, who 
 have power of removal on sufficient cause. The build- 
 ings are maintained by the family ; the course of study 
 is similar to that of the High School of Edinburgh, and 
 the number of scholars averages about eighty. A paro- 
 chial school was established at Dowally in 1833, by the 
 trustees of the Atholl estates, who erected a school-house, 
 and pay the master a salary of £34, in addition to which 
 he receives about £14 fees from the children. A school 
 for the instruction of girls in sewing, tambouring, and 
 other branches of female industry, was instituted by Jane, 
 Duchess of Atholl, in 1788, and is maintained by the 
 present Duchess of Atholl : the duchess also instituted 
 a Sunday school in 1789. An hospital was erected in 
 1510, by Bishop Brown, for the maintenance of seven 
 aged men, each of whom was to have a free house, with 
 five bolls of meal, and an allowance of five merks annually. 
 The building was destroyed in the conflagration of the 
 city in 1689, and some good houses were erected on the 
 site, several of which were afterwards sold ; the rent of 
 the remainder is distributed in meal among the bedesmen, 
 under the patronage of the commissary. A chapel dedi- 
 cated to St. Ninian was founded in 14"20 by Bishop 
 Cardney, who endowed it with the lands of Mucklarie, 
 the rents of which are now paid to the rector of the royal 
 school ; there are no remains of the building, and the 
 site is occupied by the houses in Atholl-street. On the 
 summit of an eminence to the east of the town, not far 
 343 
 
 from St. Niniau's, was a chapel dedicated to St. Jerome, 
 and called the Red Chapel ; the site is inclosed by a stone 
 wall, but there are no remains of the edifice. The ruins 
 of the ancient castle of Rotmel were removed about the 
 beginning of the present century, when numerous coins 
 were found in digging up the foundation. To the east 
 of the city is an extensive tract called the Craigwood, in 
 the centre of which is an eminence commanding a fine 
 view of the town and the several passes of the vale of 
 Atholl. On the side of Craig-y-barns are two caves 
 overlooking the King's Pass, one of which was an an- 
 cient hermitage, and the other the abode of a noted 
 robber who was shot on his return from the well of St. 
 Columba : on the east side of Craig-y-barns is another, 
 called the Duchess Cave, which till lately was neatly 
 fitted up. There are also several caves on the back hills 
 of Dowally, which were inhabited for many months after 
 the battle of Culloden. 
 
 DUNKELD, LITTLE, a parish, in the county of [^ 
 Perth, adjoining Dunkeld, which is on the north ; and 
 containing, with the village of Inver, 2718 inhabitants. 
 This parish includes the ancient parish of Laganallachy. 
 It is bounded on the north and east by the river Tay, 
 and is about sixteen miles in length and from five to six 
 in extreme breadth, comprising 23,200 acres, of which 
 about 7500 are under cultivation, 3204 woodland and 
 plantations, and the remainder waste. The lands are 
 divided into three districts, namely, Murthly, Strath- 
 bran, and the Bishopric, the last so called from having 
 belonged to the ancient see of Dunkeld. Murthly ex- 
 tends from the parish of Kinclaven on the east to the 
 village of Inver, and includes the hill of Birnam. The 
 district of Strathbran extends from Inver to Amulrie on 
 the west for nearly nine miles, and is watered by the 
 river Bran, from which it takes its name ; while the 
 Bishopric stretches from Inver for almost ten miles 
 along the Tay. The surface is strikingly diversified with 
 ranges of hills, of which that of Birnam, on the south, 
 rises in stately grandeur to a considerable elevation, em- 
 bracing an extensive view of the adjacent country ; the 
 hill of Craigvinian, on the western bank of the Tay, 
 also commands some finely-varied prospects. The river 
 Bran has its source in Loch Freuchy, on the southern . 
 border of the parish, and in its precipitous and romantic 
 course forms several picturesque cascades; it flows into 
 the Tay nearly opposite the town of Dunkeld. There 
 are also a few lakes, chiefly in the mountain district ; 
 they all abound with excellent trout, and in Loch Skiack 
 are found pike of considerable size. 
 
 The SOIL varies extremely in different parts of this 
 extensive parish ; in the eastern portions it is generally 
 a rich black loam, and in other districts partly sand and 
 partly gravel. The crops are barley, bear, and oats, 
 with turnips and potatoes, of which last great quantities 
 are raised, and sent to the London market, where, from 
 the excellence of their quality, they obtain a decided 
 preference. Considerable numbers of black-cattle are 
 reared in the Highland districts of the parish, and sent 
 to the southern markets ; and many sheep, usually of 
 the black-faced breed, are fed by the various tenants. 
 There are extensive woods and plantations in Murthly 
 and the Bishopric; the prevailing trees are oak, ash, 
 Scotch fir, larch, and plane, with birch and hazel. The 
 coppices of oak are cut down as they successively attain 
 the growth of twenty years, and produce a valuable
 
 DUNK 
 
 D U N L 
 
 return by the sale of the bark, in the preparation of 
 which many of the population are employed (luring the 
 summer months. A considerable quantity of Scotch fir 
 and larch, of large girth, is sent to England for ship- 
 building ; and at Inver is a powerful saw-mill, where 
 much timber is prepared and exported to England for 
 railroads and other purposes. Near Murthly is a quarry 
 of fine freestone, from which was raised the stone for 
 the cathedral of Dunkeld, and more recently for the 
 erection of the bridge at that place across the Tay. 
 There is likewise a quarry of excellent slate at Birnam 
 hill, which is extensively wrought. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £S960. 
 
 Murthly Castle is beautifully situated on the south 
 bank of the river, in a finely-wooded and ample demesne 
 rising in bold undulations, and comprehending much 
 picturesque scenery : various improvements have been 
 made in the grounds. Dalgidse is an ancient mansion 
 with modern additions, pleasantly situated on the road 
 to Taymouth. Kinnaird House stands on an eminence 
 overlooking the Tay, in grounds tastefully laid out, and 
 abounding with romantic scenery. Birnam Lodge and 
 Birnam Cottage are both pleasant houses nearly opposite 
 to Dunkeld ; and a handsome seat in the cottage style, 
 beautifully situated on the western acclivity of Torwood, 
 has been built by Mr. Wallace, of Perth. There are 
 numerous hamlets in the parish, few of which can be 
 regarded as villages, with the exception of Inver, itself 
 a small village, situated at the influx of the river Bran 
 into the Tay, and, previously to the erection of the 
 bridge, the station of a ferry across that river. This 
 village is much frequented by parties visiting the ro- 
 mantic scenery in its vicinity. Among its principal 
 attractions are, the Rumbling Bridge, thrown over a deep 
 chasm in which the Bran, rushing with impetuous 
 violence among the rocks, forms a romantic cascade ; 
 and Ossian's Seat, or the Hermitage, situated on the 
 north bank of the Bran, in the woods of the Duke of 
 AthoU, and close to which is a natural cascade of less 
 romantic, but more picturesque, appearance. Near the 
 village is the saw-mill above mentioned, driven by 
 water equivalent to twenty-four horse power, where a 
 considerable number of persons are employed. There 
 are several fishing-stations on the Tay, in which river 
 salmon and salmon-trout were formerly taken in abun- 
 dance ; but the quantity for some years has been 
 rapidly decreasing, and the fisheries at present yield but 
 a very inconsiderable rent to the proprietors. Facility 
 of communication is afforded by excellent turnpike- 
 roads, of which those in the districts of Strathbran and 
 the Bishopric pass for ten miles, and that in the eastern 
 district for four miles, through the parish ; and about 
 half-way between Dunkeld and Amulrie, a new bridge 
 has been built over the river Bran. Dunkeld bridge is 
 a noble structure. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Dunkeld, synod of 
 Perth and Stirling ; patron, the Crown. The minister's 
 stipend is £15*. 10., with a manse, and the glebes of 
 this place and Laganallachy together are valued at £18 
 per annum. The parish church, situated near the south 
 bank of the Tay, was built in 1798, and is a neat plain 
 structure containing 820 sittings. Laganallachy church, 
 in the district of Strathbran, has about 450 sittings ; 
 and divine service is performed there one Sunday in the 
 344 
 
 month, wholly in the Gaelic language. There is an old 
 Roman Catholic chapel attached to Murthly Castle, used 
 by the family as a burying-place, and of late years fitted 
 up for service by the proprietor, who belongs to the 
 Romish church. Two parochial schools are supported ; 
 the master of one has a salary of £29. IS., with about 
 £10 arising from fees, and the master of the other a 
 salary of £10, with £10 fees, and both have houses and 
 gardens rent-free. There are also three schools con- 
 nected with the Society for Propagating Christian Know- 
 ledge, the masters of which have salaries of £15 each, 
 partly paid by the heritors of the parish ; and, the 
 schools being situated in populous districts, the amount 
 of fees is considerable. A small parochial library is 
 supported by subscription. John Stewart, Esq., of 
 Grandtully, about the commencement of the last cen- 
 tury, bequeathed 20,000 merks Scotch for the main- 
 tenance of twelve poor men of the Episcopalian Church, 
 and in 1*40 a building for their reception was erected 
 on the lands of INIurthly ; but the original purpose of 
 the testator was not carried into effect, and the property 
 consequently accumulated to the sum of £2609 sterling, 
 the interest of which is divided among poor persons of 
 this and the neighbouring parishes. There are several 
 Druidical remains ; and on the farm of Balialoan is a 
 remarkable stone called Clacha-mhoid, where it is said 
 a baron in the vicinity held his court. Two very large 
 trees are still standing near the church, said to be the 
 only remains of Birnam Forest, and on a plain near the 
 bank of the Bran are the ruins of the castle of Trochery, 
 an ancient residence of the Gowrie family. 
 
 DUNLICHTY, county Inverness. — See Daviot. 
 
 DUNLOP, a parish, chiefly in the district of Cun/? 
 NiNGHAME, couuty of Ayr, and partly in the Upper 
 ward of the county of Renfrew, 2^ miles (N. N. W.) 
 from Stewarton ; containing 1150 inhabitants. This 
 place derives its name, signifying in the Gaelic language 
 a " winding hill ", from the situation of its ancient 
 castle on the summit of a hill, whose base was sur- 
 rounded by a small river. The parish is about seven 
 miles in length, and two in average breadth, comprising 
 6554 acres, of which 5834 are arable, 130 woodland 
 and plantations, and the remainder hill pasture, moss, 
 and waste. Its surface is gently undulated, and though 
 rather elevated, in no part attains a height of more than 
 1 50 feet above the level of the sea. The highest hills are 
 those of Craignaught and Knockmead, towards the north- 
 east, which command some pleasing and richly varied 
 prospects over the adjacent country. From Brucken- 
 heugh, about a mile to the south of the church, the view 
 embraces the wooded district between this parish and the 
 sea, the shores of the Firth of Clyde and their numerous 
 bays and promontories, the lofty mountains of Arran, 
 with Ailsa Craig and the hills of Ireland in the distance. 
 There are many springs of excellent water, and the lands 
 are intersected with various streams, the principal of 
 which is the Lugton ; it has its source in Loch Libo, in 
 Renfrewshire, and after a course of about fifteen miles, 
 in which it forms a boundary between this parish and 
 that of Beith, flows into the river Garnock near Kilwin- 
 ning. The Glassert burn runs through the centre of 
 the parish (dividing it into two equal parts), and, re- 
 ceiving several streamlets in its course, falls into the 
 Annack. Corsehill burn is also a small stream, sepa- 
 rating the parish from that of Stewarton. The Lugton
 
 D U N L 
 
 DUN M 
 
 abounds with trout and pike ; trout are also found in 
 the other streams, and in the Glassert char used for- 
 merly to be taken in abundance, but they have now 
 totally disappeared. Halket loch, covering about ten 
 acres, has been drained within the last few years, and is 
 now a luxuriant meadow. 
 
 The SOIL is generally of a clayey retentive quality, but 
 fertile, and under proper management very productive ; 
 in the southern parts of the parish a rich loam is pre- 
 valent, and in the higher lands are some patches of 
 moss. The principal crop is oats ; barley and bear are 
 raised for home consumption, with a few acres of wheat, 
 and also small quantities of potatoes and turnips, for 
 which, however, the soil is not well adapted. The 
 system of agriculture is improving ; the rotation plan of 
 husbandry is adopted, and the draining of the lands, 
 hitherto much neglected, is now becoming general. The 
 dairy-farms are the chief objects of attention with the 
 farmers, and the cheese produced has long been distin- 
 guished for its quality. It differs from other kinds 
 mainly in its being made of unskimmed milk, a practice 
 originally introduced here by Barbara Gilmour, from 
 which circumstance all cheese made in a similar man- 
 ner has obtained the distinctive appellation of Dun- 
 lop cheese. About 25,000 stone are annually produced 
 in the parish, and find a ready sale in the various mar- 
 kets. Great attention is paid to the rearing of live-stock; 
 the cattle are all of the Ayrshire or Cunninghame breed, 
 and the sheep generally the Leicestershire : about 900 
 milch-cows are kept for the dairy. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £8493. There are no 
 natural woods ; the plantations consist of larch, Scotch 
 fir, ash, elm, beech, and plane, and on the larger proper- 
 ties they are well attended to, and are in a flourishing 
 state. In this parish the substrata are, clay stone passing 
 into porphyry and amygdaloid, with occasional masses 
 of greenstone and basalt; limestone, sandstone, and coal. 
 The limestone, which abounds with petrified shells, has 
 long been quarried at Laigh-Gameshill ; it occurs in 
 seams about sixteen feet in thickness, and being of ex- 
 cellent quality about .5000 bolls are annually raised, 
 part of which is burnt on the spot. Limestone is also 
 wrought in other parts of the parish, but to a compara- 
 tively small extent. The coal, of which a few cart-loads 
 were removed, was found to be of so inferior a quality 
 that it was not thought advisable to continue the working 
 of it. The greenstone and freestone have been quarried 
 in several places for building purposes, for making dykes 
 for inclosing the lands, and also to furnish materials for 
 the furrow-drains. 
 
 Dunlop House, a spacious and elegant mansion in the 
 early English style, is beautifully situated on the bank 
 of the Corsehill burn, in a deeply-sequestered spot, and 
 embosomed in a richly-planted demesne. The village, 
 which is pleasant, consists principally of one street, 
 neatly built ; a subscription library has been established, 
 and there is also a library in connexion with a Sabbath 
 school, which contains about 2.50 volumes. Part of the 
 inhabitants of the village are employed in the various 
 trades requisite for the supply of the parish, and many 
 of them are engaged as cheese-factors for the neigh- 
 bouring districts, which they supply not only with the 
 produce of Dunlop, but with that of other places in the 
 county of Ayr. Fairs for the sale of dairy stock and 
 agricultural produce are held on the second Friday in 
 Vol. I.— 345 
 
 May (O. S.) and the l'2th of November, at both of which 
 a considerable quantity of business is transacted. Eccle- 
 siastically the parish is in the presbytery of Irvine, synod 
 of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the Earl of 
 Eglinton : the minister's stipend is £'215, with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £'20 per annum. Dunlop church, 
 erected in 1836 to replace the ancient building, which 
 had become too small for the increased population, is a 
 neat and substantial edifice adapted for a congregation 
 of about 830 persons. A new parochial school-house was 
 built in 1840, consisting of a large and commodious 
 schoolroom below, and a dwelling-house for the master 
 above : the old school-house, which is yet standing be- 
 side the kirk gate, was built in 1641 by James, Viscount 
 Clandeboyes, by whom, according to the inscription in 
 front, it would appear to have been endowed ; but 
 nothing is known of the funds appropriated to that 
 purpose. 
 
 At Chapel House, about half a mile from the village, 
 were the ruins of an ancient chapel dedicated to the 
 Virgin Mary, which have been removed within the last 
 few years. The castle of Dunlop, which was taken dowa 
 to make room for the present modern mansion, was of 
 great antiquity ; but both the date and the original 
 founder are unknown. Aiket Castle, about a mile south- 
 ward of the church, was for many centuries prior to the 
 year I700 inhabited by a branch of the Cunninghame 
 family : the original tower, which was four stories in 
 height, and of which the ground-floor has a vaulted roof 
 of stone, has been lowered to make it correspond with 
 the additional buildings requisite for converting it into 
 a dwelling-house. The learned John Major, the tutor of 
 John Knox, and professor of theology in the university 
 of Glasgow, was vicar of Dunlop ; and James Hamilton, 
 Viscount Clandeboyes, was born in the parish, of which 
 his father was vicar. Lieutenant- General James Dunlop 
 of Dunlop, father of the present proprietor, was eminently 
 distinguished in his profession ; the general's mother was 
 the early friend and correspondent of the poet Burns. 
 
 DUNMORE, a village, in the parish of Airth,!^ 
 county of Stirling, 8 miles (E. by S.) from Stirling; 
 containing 154 inhabitants. It is situated on the south- 
 west side of the Firth of Forth, on the road from Airth 
 to Stirling, and has a harbour, now a calling-place for 
 the Stirling steamers. The village is small and of rather 
 mean appearance, but the scenery around it is peculiarly 
 beautiful, and the high grounds in the vicinity finely 
 contrast with the almost level plain of the rest of the 
 parish. Formerly an extensive coal-mine was in opera- 
 tion, but the works were relinquished about the year 
 1810, when more than thirty families removed from the 
 neighbourhood. Dunmore Park is the handsome seat of 
 the Earl of Dunmore, the head of a branch of the noble 
 family of Murray, Dukes of Atholl ; Lord Charles Mur- 
 ray, second son of John, first Marquess of Atholl, having 
 been created in I686 Earl of Dunmore, Viscount Fin- 
 castle, and Lord Murray of Blair, Moulin, and Tillemot. 
 The present mansion was erected about twenty-five years 
 since ; it is a large building in the Elizabethan style, and 
 stands on an extensive lawn, surrounded by grounds 
 richly planted with timber of various kinds and growth. 
 Here is an ancient tower, one of three in the parish. 
 On the summit of Dunmore hill, which is of considerable 
 height, are the remains of a strong fortification ; and in 
 digging a few years since, an anchor was found ein- 
 
 '2 Y
 
 DUNN 
 
 DUNN 
 
 bedded in the soil, at least half a mile from the present 
 course of the river. 
 fT) DUNNET, a sea-port and parish, in the county of 
 Caithness, 9 miles (E. N. E.) from Thurso; containing 
 ISSO inhabitants. This parish, the origin of the name 
 of which is involved in obscurity, is one of the most 
 northern in Scotland ; it is about ten miles in length, 
 and varies in breadth from two to four miles. Dunnet 
 is bounded on the south by the parish of Bower, on the 
 south-west by that of Olrig, on the east by Cannisbay, 
 and on the north and north-west by the Pentland Firth, 
 into which projects the extensive promontory of Dunnet 
 Head. This Head consists of numerous hills and valleys, 
 covered with fine pasture for cattle and sheep, and 
 throughout its whole extent of coast, which is about 
 nine miles, presents to the sea a front of broken rocks 
 from 100 to 400 feet high. An isthmus of low land, 
 about two miles broad, connects it with the rest of the 
 parish ; but %vith the exception of the keepers of the 
 lighthouse, it is entirely uninhabited. A large number 
 < of sea-fowl, especially the layer or puffin, visit it during 
 
 Y U^U^ the season of incubation. The shore to the east of 
 » ' Dunnet Head is low and rocky, and the current of the 
 , -J Firth during spring tides is so strong that no vessel can 
 . stem it, from which circumstance, and the velocity of 
 contiguous currents in opposite directions, the navigation 
 here is dangerous to strangers. Of the several good 
 havens for small craft, Brough and Ham or Holm havens 
 are considered capable of great improvement. In the 
 interior the parish is of level surface, there being scarcely 
 an eminence deserving the name of a hill. The larger 
 portion consists of moss and moor, and the soil in the 
 cultivated parts is in general of a light nature, with little 
 clay or loam ; in some places it is sandy, and in others 
 a light black earth, and rich clay. Adjoining the shore, 
 east of Dunnet bay, is a barren tract nearly two miles 
 in breadth, which is said to have been formerly arable 
 ground. The rock formation at Dunnet Head is free- 
 stone, and throughout the rest of the parish grey slate : 
 at Inkstack are some quarries of flagstone, supplying 
 materials for pavements, of which considerable quantities 
 are shipped for the south. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in Dunnet is £4268. 
 
 The parish contains the three villages of Dunnet, 
 Brough, and Scarfskerry. Part of the population is 
 engaged in salmon-fishing, which has been carried on, 
 particularly in Dunnet bay, with great success for the 
 last few years : there is also a lobster-fishery, and cod, 
 haddock, flounders, halibut, and skate are obtained. 
 Four fairs are held, of which the principal is Marymas, 
 on the Tuesday after August 15th (O. S.) ; it continues 
 two days, and is almost exclusively a cattle and horse 
 fair : the others are on the first and third Tuesdays in 
 October (O. S.) and first Tuesday in April, for cattle, 
 horses, &c. Cattle are also conveyed by steamers to 
 the Leith and Edinburgh markets ; the grain is generally 
 shipped to the same quarter, and meal is sent to the 
 weekly markets of Wick and Thurso. For ecclesias- 
 tical purposes the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Caithness, synod of Sutherland and Caith- 
 ness ; patron. Sir James Colquhoun, Bart. The stipend 
 of the minister is £191, with a manse, and a glebe of the 
 annual value of £12. Dunnet church, which is very 
 ancient, is a plain oblong building, with a tower at the 
 west end ; in 1 83 6-7 it underwent a thorough repai r, bei ng 
 346 
 
 re-roofed, and enlarged by a capacious aisle, and it is 
 now a commodious and comfortable place of worship. 
 The parochial school aflFords instruction in the ordinary 
 branches of education ; the master has the maximum 
 salary, with about £10 from fees, and a house and garden. 
 Another school is supported by the General Assembly, 
 and a third partly by Mr. Traill, on whose property it is 
 built, and partly by fees. There are also two female 
 schools, aided by the respective heritors and the Kirk 
 Session. In 1*64 William Sinclair, Esq., of Freswick, 
 bequeathed an annuity of £5. 11. for the poor of the 
 parish ; and the late Messrs. Oswald, of Glasgow, left 
 £600, now vested in land, for the same purpose. The 
 lighthouse on Dunnet Head was first lighted on the 1st 
 October, 1831 ; it stands on a precipice, about 300 feet 
 above the level of the sea, and from the ground is sixty- 
 one feet in height : the erection has proved of great 
 service in preventing shipwreck and guiding vessels 
 through the Firth. Timothy Pont, who did much to 
 illustrate the geography of his country, was minister of 
 Dunnet in the beginning of the seventeenth century. 
 
 DUNNICHEN, a parish, in the county of Forfar ;3 
 including the villages of Bowriefauld, Cotton of Lownie, 
 Craichie, Drummetermont, and Letham ; and contain- 
 ing 1625 inhabitants, of whom 54 are in the village of 
 Dunnichen, 3| miles (E. S. E.) from Forfar. This place, 
 which is of considerable antiquity, derives its name, 
 signifying in the Gaelic language " the hill or fort of the 
 valley ", from a prominent hill overlooking the vale of 
 Lunan, and on which are still some remains of an ancient 
 fort of loose stones, though the greater part has been 
 removed to furnish materials for inclosing the lands. A 
 battle is supposed to have been fought here at some 
 remote period, which tradition refers to the time of 
 Arthur, King of the Britons ; but no authentic account 
 of it has been recorded. Numerous graves, evidently of 
 vtarriors, have at various times been discovered by the 
 plough, filled with human bones, and some of them con- 
 taining urns of red clay rudely ornamented and holding 
 ashes. The parish comprises an area of more than 5000 
 acres. Its surface is gently undulated, rising in some 
 places into hills, the two highest of which are Dunnichen 
 hill, having an elevation of about SOO, and Duubarrow, 
 an elevation of 700, feet above the level of the sea. 
 Dunnichen hill, which is cultivated from its base to the 
 summit, and interspersed with thriving plantations, 
 forms a pleasing feature in the landscape, and commands 
 a richly-varied and extensive prospect over the whole 
 vale of Lunan to the east, and Forfar and Strathmore to 
 the west, the view terminating in the distance in the 
 Grampian range. The Vinney water, which has its 
 source in the parish of Forfar, collects various incon- 
 siderable tributaries in its course through this parish, and 
 falls into the Lunan in the parish of Kirkden. A loch 
 formerly covered an area of fifty acres, but it has been 
 partially drained, and converted into pasture land; on the 
 north side of it is a small chalybeate spring, strongly im- 
 pregnated, and near the base of Dunbarrow is a much 
 more copious spring, of similar quality but less power. 
 
 The SOIL in the higher grounds is a shallow friable 
 loam intermixed with sand, which becomes deeper and 
 richer towards the lower lands, where there is generally 
 a clayey loam. Of the whole number of acres about 
 4000 are cultivated or occasionally in tillage, upwards of 
 500 in wood, and the remainder, much of which might be
 
 DUNN 
 
 DUNN 
 
 reclaimed and brought into cultivation, is rough pasture 
 and waste. The crops are, grain of all kinds, potatoes, 
 and turnips ; the system of agriculture is in an advanced 
 state. Bone-dust has been introduced for manure on 
 turnip land, and shell-marl, by which the soil in many 
 parts has been much improved, is procured in abundance 
 from the lake of Restenneth, in the parish of Forfar. 
 Considerable attention is paid to the improvement of 
 live stock, and the dairy-farms are well managed ; the 
 cattle are chiefly the Galloway, with a few of the Fife 
 and Teeswater breeds. No sheep are reared, but great 
 numbers are sent hither from the Grampians to be fed 
 on turnips during the winter, and many cattle of all 
 breeds, bought at the neighbouring fairs, are pastured 
 here. The plantations, being duly thinned, are in a 
 flourishing state. The substrata of the parish are chiefly 
 sandstone or freestone, with portions of greenstone oc- 
 curring occasionally, and in detached situations ; the 
 sandstone frequently contains rounded pebbles of jasper, 
 quartz, and agate. In the trap rocks of Dunbarrow is 
 often found a siliceous incrustation, in which rock crys- 
 tals are embedded ; and in and near the summit of Dun- 
 nichen are several masses of granite and mica-slate. 
 The sandstone, which is generally of a greyish white, and 
 sometimes inclining to blue, is extensively quarried at 
 Dunnichen ; it produces excellent millstones and other 
 blocks of very large dimensions, which may be easily cut, 
 and are susceptible of a high polish, but, if suffered to 
 remain long after being taken from the quarry, acquire 
 a degree of hardness that bids defiance to any tool. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £4600. 
 
 Dunnichen House is pleasantly situated on the south- 
 ern slope of the hill, near its base, and commands an 
 extensive and pleasingly-varied view ; the demesne is 
 richly planted, and is rapidly improving under the 
 spirited management of its proprietor. The principal 
 manufacture carried on in the parish is the weaving of 
 coarse linen-cloth called Osnaburghs, and linens of finer 
 texture for sheeting and shirting. Fairs are held at 
 Letham twice in the year, for cattle, and the hiring of 
 farm-servants ; and a fair is also held in the Kirkton on 
 the third Wednesday in March, O. S. The roads formerly 
 afforded very few facilities of communication with the 
 neighbouring places ; but a new road from Dundee to 
 Brechin has been completed, greatly tending to increase 
 the intercourse with the larger towns. For ecclesias- 
 tical purposes the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Forfar, and synod of Angus and Mcarns ; 
 patron, the Crown. The stipend of the incumbent is 
 £1.58, of which £38 are received from government : the 
 manse was built in 1815, in a very superficial manner; 
 the glebe land is valued at £11 per annum. Dunnichen 
 church, seated on an eminence in the small hamlet of 
 Kirkton, was erected in 1802, but from the dampness of 
 the situation, and the bad construction of the roof, which 
 was covered with flags of sandstone, it was found ne- 
 cessary in 1817 to cover it with a new roof of slate : it 
 is a plain edifice adapted for a congregation of 456 
 persons. There are places of worship for members of 
 the Free Church, Congregationalists, and the United 
 Presbyterian Synod. The parochial school, situated in 
 the hamlet of Craichie, allords a liberal course of instruc- 
 tion ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house and 
 garden, and the fees average about £6 per annum. On 
 the area of the ancient fort was found, after the removal 
 
 of the stones of the building, a thick bed of ashes mixed 
 with numerous human bones, and in one part was dis- 
 covered a number of small golden balls, thought to have 
 been the current coin of the realm at the period of its erec- 
 tion. The late George Dempster, Esq., for many years re- 
 presentative of the county, was a native of this parish. 
 
 DUNNING, a parish, in the county of Perth ; in-^ 
 eluding the village of Newtown of Pitcairns, and con- 
 taining 2128 inhabitants, of whom 1068 are in the 
 village of Dunning, 9 miles (W. S. W.) from Perth. This 
 parish is supposed to take its name from the Gaelic term 
 dun, signifying a hill or fort. It contains the remains 
 of three military stations called Ardargie, Rossie Law, 
 and Ternavie, which are thought to have belonged to a 
 line of forts constructed by Agricola along the northern 
 base of the Ochil hills, where the parish lies, and stretch- 
 ing to Ardoch, and thence to the wall of Antoninus. This 
 supposition is corroborated by the circumstance of Ro- 
 man armour and numerous human bones having been 
 dug up in the locality : and the proximity of the Pictish 
 station Forteviot, and the traces of many fortifications, 
 lead to the conclusion that this was subsequently the 
 arena of several sanguinary conflicts. The family of 
 Rollo, descended from Eric de Rollo, who came over 
 with William the Conqueror as secretary, were first 
 located in this place, where they have since remained, 
 in the time of David I., who gave considerable posses- 
 sions to Richard de Rollo, a son or grandson of Eric. 
 In 1512 the estate was erected into a free barony, 
 and in 1651 Sir Andrew Rollo, Knt., was created by 
 Charles II. Baron Rollo, of Duncruib, the name of the 
 property belonging to this ancient family. The village 
 of Dunning was burnt to the ground, with many others, 
 by the Earl of Mar, in the rebellion of 1715 and 1716, 
 in order to arrest the progress of the royal troops ; and 
 to perpetuate the remembrance of this a thorn-tree was 
 planted, which is still in a flourishing condition, and an 
 object of curiosity and veneration. 
 
 The PARISH extends in length about seven miles from 
 north to south, and four miles in breadth, comprehend- 
 ing an extensive tract of cultivated land, and 200 acres 
 of plantations. One-third of the whole lies among the 
 Ochil hills, in which range rises the Dunning, a lively 
 stream that pursues a somewhat rapid course over a 
 gravelly bed, and falls into the river Earn. A lake 
 called the White Moss, situated in the western portion, 
 containing a variety of small fish, and frequented by 
 large flocks of wild ducks, covers about eleven acres of 
 ground, and forms a pleasing and interesting object in 
 the scenery ; while the lofty Ochils, depastured by 
 numerous flocks of sheep, and stretching along the 
 south-eastern boundary of the county, exhibit a bold 
 and striking outline, and are replete with romantic fea- 
 tures which can scarcely fail to captivate the admirer of 
 the beauties of nature. The soil along the banks of the 
 Earn is light and sandy, but in the other parts generally 
 clayey or gravelly, and the crops are raised under the 
 rotation system. The farm-houses are commodious, and 
 roofed with slate. Among the various improvements 
 carried on, the draining of marshy grounds has been ex- 
 tensively practised ; and several tracts, especially one 
 called the White Bog, have been converted into good 
 arable land. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £9000. Quarries of common stone of firm 
 texture are open in several parts, and a bed of white 
 
 2 Y 2
 
 n 
 
 DUNN 
 
 freestone has been lately discovered 5 ■whinstone is 
 abundant in the Ochils, and fragments of quartz are 
 carried along the streams. The plantations are detached 
 and of small extent, and consist of oak, fir, ash, elm, and 
 poplar : the garden belonging to the mansion of Dun- 
 cruib, the seat of Lord Rollo, is ornamented with a fine 
 spruce-tree, planted in I7O7, of great bulk, elevation, and 
 beauty. The modern residences are the houses of Pit- 
 cairns and Garvock. The village of Dunning is held in 
 
 (.' ' " • /; ^^" from Lord Rollo, and is governed by a baron-bailie ; 
 
 "'" jr it has many good houses, a public reading-room, a post- 
 office, and, in place of a gaol, an instrument of punish- 
 ment called the jotigs. There is also a gas-work. A 
 large proportion of the population of the parish are 
 cotton-weavers, and obtain work from Glasgow; a wool- 
 mill employs many hands, and there are three corn- mills, 
 a flour-mill, a saw-mill, two malt-mills, a distillery, and 
 a brewery. Three fairs are annually held. To the north- 
 north-west of the village is a station of the Scottish Cen- 
 tral railway. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the pres- 
 bytery of Auchterarder, synod of Perth and Stirling, and 
 in the patronage of the Earl of Kinnoull ; the minister's 
 stipend is about £'240, with a manse, and a glebe of eight 
 acres and a quarter, valued at £'20 per annum. Dun- 
 ning church, which was rebuilt in 1810, is conveniently 
 situated in the village, and contains 1000 sittings. The 
 members of the Free Church have a place of worship, 
 and there are meeting-houses belonging to the United 
 Presbyterian Synod and Original Seceders. The paro- 
 chial school affords instruction in Latin and the ordinary 
 branches ; the master has the raa.ximum salary, with 
 about £50 fees. 
 (7 DUNNOTTAR, a parish, in the county of Kincar- 
 dine ; containing, with the village of Crawton, and a por- 
 tion of the town of Stonehaven, 1S73 inhabitants. This 
 place, the name of which is said to refer to the situation 
 of its ancient castle on a peninsular promontory, appears 
 to have been distinguished as the scene of some im- 
 portant events connected with the history of the country. 
 The castle is by some writers supposed to have been 
 originally founded by the Picts, to whom the great tower, 
 which is evidently the most ancient part of the structure, 
 is traditionally attributed ; but the earliest authentic 
 notice of it occurs during the contest between Bruce and 
 Baliol, when Wallace, who had assumed the regency, 
 wrested it from the English, by whom it was garrisoned. 
 Some records in the possession of the Marischal family 
 assign the erection of the castle to Sir William Keith, an 
 ancestor of that family, who in the fourteenth century 
 obtained permission to construct a fortress on the site, 
 on condition of building a church in a more convenient 
 situation, in lieu of the ancient parish church, which stood 
 within the precincts of the present ruins. The fortress 
 was one of the strongest in the country, and remained 
 for many ages in possession of the family of Keith, the 
 first of whom, says tradition, was a soldier who, in the 
 reign of Malcolm H , having killed in battle the Danish 
 general Comus, was rewarded with a grant of lands in 
 Lothian, and invested with the title of Great Marischal 
 of Scotland. During the parliamentary war, the regalia 
 of Scotland, consisting of the crown, the sword, and 
 sceptre, and now kept in Edinburgh Castle, were for 
 security deposited in the castle here, by order of the 
 privy council; and a garrison was appointed for the de- 
 fence of the place. George Ogilvv, of Barras in this 
 348 
 
 DUNN 
 
 parish, having been appointed lieutenant-governor in the 
 absence of the earl-marischal, who was then with the 
 king's forces in England, gallantly defended the fortress 
 for si.\ months against Cromwell's troops under General 
 Lambert, until, severely pressed by famine, and a con- 
 sequent mutiny in the garrison, he was reduced to the 
 necessity of capitulating. The regalia had been pre- 
 viously conveyed in safety through the besieging army 
 to Kinneff by a stratagem of his lady in conjunction with 
 Mrs. Grainger, the wife of the minister of that parish, 
 who had them carefully concealed under the pulpit of 
 the church until the Restoration. Ogilvy and his lady 
 suffered a long imprisonment for refusing to tell what 
 became of these highly prized relics ; but on the return 
 of Charles IL, he was created a baronet, and a new char- 
 ter of his lands was conferred upon him for his import- 
 ant services. John Keith, also, second son of the earl- 
 marischal, obtained the earldom of Kintore, and the 
 post of knight-marischal with £400 a year, as if he had 
 been in truth the preserver of the regalia ; whilst Mrs. 
 Grainger, the real instrument of the preservation, received 
 nothing for her share in the transaction, but the promise 
 of a reward which was never given. George, the last earl- 
 marischal, having joined in the rebellion of 1715, the title 
 and estates of the family were forfeited to the crown ; and 
 the castle, which had been previously purchased by go- 
 vernment, was dismantled, and has since been a ruin. 
 
 The PARISH is situated on the road from Aberdeen to 
 Edinburgh, and bounded on the north by the parish of 
 Fetteresso, from which it is separated by the Carron 
 rivulet ; on the east by the German Ocean, on the south 
 by the parish of Kinneff, and on the west by that of 
 Glenbervie. Its surface is boldly diversified with hills, 
 of which Carmount, at the extremity of an extensive 
 heath of that name, has an elevation of more than 800 
 feet ; and with successive ridges for nearly three miles 
 towards the north-west. The coast is abruptly precipi- 
 tous, consisting of a range of cliffs in detached masses, 
 rising from 1.50 to 300 feet in height. In these cliffs 
 are numerous caverns worn by the action of the waves, 
 one of which, called the Long Gallery, under a lofty pro- 
 montory, extends more than 150 yards in length, and 
 affords a channel through which a boat may pass from 
 the bay at its entrance to another at its outlet. To the 
 south of this cavern is Fowlsheugh, the highest of the 
 rocks on this part of the coast, and the haunt of aquatic 
 birds of every description, that build their nests and hatch 
 their young in these almost inaccessible heights. Of late 
 years, the birds have greatly diminished in number. 
 
 The area of the parish is 8156 acres, of which 4860 
 are arable, 690 woodland and plantations, and 2606 
 natural pasture and uncultivated waste. Its soil is 
 various, consisting in different parts of clay, loam, sand, 
 and gravel, and being frequently found in all these 
 varieties on the same farm. The system of agriculture 
 has been much improved, and the rotation plan of hus- 
 bandry is in use ; much unprofitable land has been 
 brought into cultivation ; the farm-buildings are in 
 general substantial and commodious, and great attention 
 is paid to live stock. There are few sheep reared; the 
 cattle are usually of the black kind, and are mostly sold 
 when two years old. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £8*68. The woods are of oak, ash, and 
 beech, of which there are many fine specimens on the 
 lands of Auquhirie ; the plantations, the most extensive
 
 DU N O 
 
 D U NO 
 
 of which are on the estate of General Forbes, are of 
 pine, larch, and Scotch and spruce firs, intermixed with 
 various kinds of hardwood, and all the trees, with the 
 exception of the Scotch fir, thrive well. The moorlands 
 abound with every kind of game ; there are partridges 
 in great numbers, some few pheasants, and snipes, wild 
 duck, and teal are plentiful. The rocks on the coast 
 are for the greater part of the pudding-stone formation, 
 with portions of trap and porphyritic granite, and occa- 
 sionally of columnar basalt ; sandstone is extensively 
 quarried, and a species of flag, formerly in use for roof- 
 ing, is also wrought. Dunnottar House, the scat of 
 General Forbes, is a spacious mansion surrounded with 
 rich and flourishing plantations ; the gardens attached to 
 the house W'ere formed at an expense of £10,000. Bar- 
 ras, the ancient seat of the Ogilvys, is now a farm-house. 
 The weaving of linen is carried on to a small extent, and 
 many of the inhabitants are engaged in the fisheries and 
 other branches of trade in the town of Stonehaven : 
 Crawton, in the south-eastern portion of the parish, is 
 chiefly inhabited by persons employed in the white- 
 fishery, which is extensively carried on off this part of 
 the coast. Facility of communication with the neigh- 
 bouring markets is afforded by good roads in every direc- 
 tion ; along the sea-coast is the high road to Edinburgh, 
 and the Strathmore turnpike-road passes through the 
 interior of the parish. Ready intercourse is also afforded 
 by the Aberdeen railway. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Fourdoun, synod 
 of Angus and Mearns : the minister's stipend is £'233, 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £8 per annum ; 
 patron, the Crown. Dunnottar church, erected on the 
 site of the former building in 1782, is a neat and com- 
 modious structure pleasingly situated. The parochial 
 school is in Stonehaven, and is well attended ; the master 
 has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the 
 fees average £46. The remains of Dunnottar Castle are 
 very extensive, occupying an area of five acres on the 
 summit of au abrupt and precipitous cliff, boldly pro- 
 jecting from the mainland, with which it is connected by 
 an isthmus nearly covered by the sea at high water : the 
 great tower is still almost entire ; and the various ranges 
 of building, which, though roofless, are in tolerable pre- 
 servation, convey an impressive idea of former grandeur 
 and importance. In the churchyard is a gravestone to 
 the memory of some Covenanters who were confined in 
 the castle ; and here Sir Walter Scott, then on a visit to 
 the minister of the parish, is said to have had his first 
 interview with the individual whom, in his Antiiiuary, he 
 describes under the appellation of " Old Mortality ". 
 (d DUNOON and KILMUN, a parish, in the district 
 of CowAL, county of Argyll, 'i miles (W. by S.) from 
 Greenock ; containing 4211 inhabitants. The early his- 
 tory of this parish is involved in great obscurity, and 
 rests chiefly on tradition. Its castle, of which neither 
 the date nor the founder is distinctly known, anciently 
 belonged to the hereditary high stewards of Scot- 
 land, to whom Malcolm gave a grant of lands in the 
 district in the eleventh century. During the contested 
 succession to the throne, the castle was besieged by 
 Baliol, to whom it surrendered, in 1333 ; but in the fol- 
 lowing year it was re-captured by Robert Bruce, and 
 placed under the custody of the Campbells, ancestors 
 of the Argyll family, who were appointed hereditary 
 constables, and also lords of Cowal. The Earl of Len- 
 349 
 
 nox, while seeking to become regent of the kingdom, 
 appeared in the Clyde with a fleet, in 1554, and having 
 made himself master of Rothesay, proceeded to this 
 place, and laid siege to the castle, which was held by his 
 powerful opponent Archibald, Earl of Argyll, whom he 
 compelled to retreat with severe loss. In 1563, Mary, 
 Queen of Scots, paid a visit to the Countess of Argyll, 
 in her progress through the west, and, during her resi- 
 dence here, granted several charters to the inhabitants 
 of the district, which are still extant. The castle con- 
 tinued in the possession of the Earls of Argyll till the 
 end of the seventeenth century, since which time it has 
 been suffered to fall into ruin : the remains consist only 
 of part of one of the towers, in a dilapidated state, 
 affording but a very inadequate idea of the original 
 buildings, which appear to have covered an acre of 
 ground. Kilmun, formerly a separate parish, is sup- 
 posed to have derived its name from the erection of 
 a church dedicated to St. Mun near the shore of the 
 Holy loch, upon the spot where a stranded vessel from 
 the Holy Land, laden with consecrated earth for the 
 foundation of the cathedral of Glasgow, deposited what 
 portion of her cargo could be saved from the wreck. 
 A collegiate church was subsequently founded here, and 
 endowed for a provost and six prebendaries in 1442, by 
 Sir Duncan Campbell of Lochawe, first lord of Argyll, 
 and grandfather of Cohn Campbell, the first earl ; the 
 only portion now entire is the square tower, about forty 
 feet in height. 
 
 Dunoon is bounded on the south and east by the 
 Firth of Clyde ; and Kilmun by Loch Long on the east, 
 and partly by the Holy loch, an inlet from the Firth, 
 which on the south separates a portion of it from 
 Dunoon. The districts were united about the year 
 1660, and are together twenty-four miles in length and 
 from two to nine miles in breadth, comprising about 144 
 square miles. The surface towards the shores of the 
 Clyde, along the greater part of it, slopes gently to a 
 level plain ; the interior is intersected in various direc- 
 tions with several mountainous ridges, of which that 
 forming part of the range of hills in the vicinity of Ben- 
 more is the most elevated. These ranges are the boun- 
 daries of some extensive valleys which they inclose be- 
 tween their steep acclivities, and of which the principal 
 are, Strath-Echaig, about two miles in breadth, and 
 extending for nearly four miles to Loch Eck, which 
 thence forms its continuation for about seven miles ; 
 Glenfinart, three miles in length, and, like the former, 
 richly wooded ; and Glenmassan ; all abounding with 
 romantic scenery. Numerous mountain streams, many 
 of them having pleasing cascades, traverse the parish j 
 but the only one that can be called a river is the Echaig : 
 it issues from Loch Eck, and after a course of about 
 four miles through the vale of Echaig, in which it re- 
 ceives the Massan and another stream, falls into the 
 Holy loch. Loch Eck, about one-half of which is within 
 the parish, is nearly seven miles in length, and half a 
 mile broad ; the banks are precipitous and well wooded, 
 and the scenery around beautifully diversified. The 
 SOIL is generally a light sandy loam of no great depth, 
 and in some parts of the valleys deeper and of richer 
 quality. The crops are oats, a very little barley, po- 
 tatoes, and turnips ; wheat was formerly raised, hut has 
 been abandoned : the pastures are good, and great 
 attention is paid to live stock. The system of agricul-
 
 D U NO 
 
 D UN R 
 
 ture is improved ; the lands in cultivation are ■well 
 drained, and considerable tracts of waste have been re- 
 claimed and rendered productive. The cattle are of the 
 West Highland breed, with the exception of some of the 
 Ayrshire on the dairy-farms ; and the sheep of the 
 black-faced kind, with a few of the Leicestershire and 
 Cheviot breeds. The substrata are chiefly mica and 
 clay slate, sandstone of the old red formation, and in 
 some parts limestone, but of very inferior quality; there 
 are quarries of slate and freestone, but they are not ex- 
 tensively wrought. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £15,754. 
 
 The principal seat is Castle Toward, a handsome man- 
 sion in the later English style of architecture, erected by 
 the late Kirkman Finlay, Esq., and situated in an ample 
 and richly-wooded demesne, commanding extensive and 
 varied prospects. Hafton House is in the Elizabethan 
 style, and beautifully seated on the western shore of the 
 Holy loch, in an extensive park embracing fine views 
 of the Firth. Glenfinart House is a spacious modern 
 building in the old English style, erected on the site of 
 a mansion occupied by the late Earl of Dunmore, on 
 the shore of Loch Long, at the opening of the valley of 
 Glenfinart. Benmore House, Bernice, and the Castle 
 House near the ancient castle of Dunoon, are also hand- 
 some mansions beautifully situated. The village of 
 Dunoon stands on the margin of the Clyde, and is much 
 frequented during the summer months by parties on 
 excursions of pleasure ; the houses are neatly built, and 
 numerous pleasing villas have been erected. The small 
 village of Kilmun, on the northern shore of the Holy 
 loch, is also a place of favourite resort. Though not 
 recognised as a port, a pier or jetty has been constructed 
 at Dunoon for the accommodation of passengers by the 
 steam-packets which touch at the place ; and a sub- 
 stantial quay has also been erected at Kilmun. The 
 only trade is the shipping of cattle, sheep, and agricul- 
 tural produce, for Liverpool and other English markets ; 
 a schooner of eighty tons' burthen was lately built here, 
 and is now employed in the foreign trade. There are 
 post-offices at Dunoon, Kilmun, and Ardentinny, the 
 first having two deliveries daily in winter and three in 
 summer, and the others one delivery each. Facility of 
 communication is afforded by good roads, and by the 
 steamers from Glasgow, Greenock, and other ports on 
 the Clyde. Fairs are held on the second Wednesday in 
 January, February, August, and October, and the third 
 Tuesday in November (all O. S.). 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Dunoon, synod of Argyll. 
 The minister's stipend is £5*5, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £36. 17- per annum; patron, the Duke of Argyll. 
 The church at Dunoon was erected in 1816 ; it is a 
 handsome structure in the later English style, with a 
 square embattled tower, and since its enlargement in 
 1S34 contains 793 sittings. The present church at Kil- 
 mun was erected in 1S41 ; it is also a handsome build- 
 ing, with a tower of loftier elevation than that of the 
 ancient church, which is still remaining. Chapels of 
 ease have been built at Toward and Ardentinny, partly 
 by subscription, aided by grants from the Church Ex- 
 tension fund ; they are under the charge of missionaries, 
 who receive from £70 to £90 each from funds sub- 
 scribed for that purpose. A third missionary has a 
 similar stipend for assisting the minister of the parish, 
 350 
 
 who officiates alternately in each of the two churches. 
 There are places of worship for members of the Free 
 Church and the United Presbyterian Synod. Parochial 
 schools are supported at Dunoon, Kilmun, and Toward ; 
 the master of Dunoon has a salary of £30, of Kilmun 
 £25, and of Toward £"22, with a house and garden each, 
 in addition to the fees. Two schools are maintained by 
 the General Assembly, the masters of which have sala- 
 ries of £25 each, one at Dalilongard, and the other at 
 Ardentinny ; and a female school of industry, the mis- 
 tress of which has a salary of £30, with a house and 
 garden, is supported by an association of ladies. There 
 is also a school in connexion with dissenters. Some 
 vestiges remain of what is supposed to have been a 
 Roman camp, on the farm of Ardinslat ; Druidical re- 
 mains still exist, and various stone coffins of rude for- 
 mation, containing skeletons in a perfect state, have been 
 found. There are also ruins of the castle of Toward, 
 the ancient baronial residence of the Lamonts. 
 
 DUNREGGAN, a village, in the parish of Glen-/^ 
 CAIRN, county of Dumfries, 5| miles (W. S. W.) from 
 Penpont ; containing 277 inhabitants. It is a well- 
 built and thriving place, situated on the banks of the 
 Dalwhat stream, over which is a stone bridge, forming 
 a communication with the village of Minnyhive. The 
 road from Dumfries to Glasgow passes in the vicinity. 
 The population has latterly considerably increased. 
 
 DUNROSSNESS, a parish, in the county of Shet-^-3 
 LAND ; including Fair Isle, the island of Mousa, and the 
 quoad sacra district of Sandwick and Cunningsburgh ; 
 and containing 4494 inhabitants. This parish is situ- 
 ated on the southern extremity of the Mainland, and 
 forms the principal part of a peninsula, washed on the 
 east, south, and west by the sea. The shore, though 
 not so deeply indented with inlets as that of most other 
 parts of the Shetland Isles, is still very irregular in its 
 outline, and contains several voes, the chief of them 
 being Grutness and West voe : both these, with Quendale 
 bay, are near Sumburgh head, the most southern point 
 of the Mainland, rendered classical by Sir Walter Scott's 
 Pirate, and on which an excellent lighthouse was erected 
 a few years since, at an expense of about £40,000. 
 Among the islands in the parish are those of Colsay, 
 Mousa, St. Ninian's, and Fair Isle ; they are used chiefly 
 for the pasturage of sheep and cattle, and, with the ex- 
 ception of the last, are inconsiderable. The exposure of 
 Dunrossness is remarkably bleak and stormy ; farms 
 have been destrpyed by the drifting of sand, and there 
 is an inlet now filling up which before was used as a 
 creek or harbour : on the whole, however, the district 
 yields to very few, if any, in Shetland, in the fertility of 
 its soil and the quality of the crops. The lochs of Braw 
 and Spiggie are the resort in winter of wild swans ; and 
 eagles, ravens, and hawks, with a great variety of wild- 
 fowl, frequent the shores. At this time of the year, the 
 stormy seas, and the dreary tracts of peat-moss, invest 
 the locality with a wild and uninviting appearance ; but 
 at other periods the scene is greatly altered, and espe- 
 cially during the operations of harvest and fishing every 
 thing wears a pleasing aspect. 
 
 The SOIL of the lands under cultivation is various, 
 comprehending sand, loam, and clay ; the crops consist 
 principally of bear, black oats, potatoes, and turnips. 
 Ploughs, drawn by horses, are used in some parts ; but 
 most of the small farms are turned by the spade, and
 
 DUNS 
 
 DUNS 
 
 husbandry, as in all other districts of Shetland, is made 
 entirely subordinate to the occupation of fishing. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £1665. At 
 a place called FitfiU, copper-ore was wrought some years 
 since ; and shafts were also sunk at Sand Lodge, in 
 Sandwick, but the operations, proving unsuccessful, were 
 shortly abandoned. The inhabitants are engaged in the 
 ordinary kinds of fishing, and three or four vessels come 
 annually to Levenwick bay, from Rothesay, to receive 
 the herrings immediately after they are taken. In addi- 
 tion to the trade in fish, considerable quantities of pota- 
 toes of very good quality, as well as of oats and bear, 
 are sent to Lerwick for sale ; and a small profit is de- 
 rived from the manufacture of kelp. Ecclesiastically 
 the parish is in the presbytery of Lerwick, synod of 
 Shetland, and in the patronage of the Earl of Zetland. 
 The minister's stipend is £208, exclusive of a vicarage- 
 tithe on a certain number of lambs and quantities of 
 butter and wool ; the manse and glebe are valued at £20 
 per annum. The church was built in 1790, and contains 
 858 sittings. On Fair Isle is another church, a sub- 
 stantial edifice, erected many years ago by the then pro- 
 prietor of the island ; it affords accommodation to about 
 150 persons. There are meeting-houses for Baptists 
 and Methodists. The parochial school is situated in the 
 Sandwick district ; and in Dunrossness, and also at 
 Cunningsburgh, is a school supported by the Society for 
 Propagating Christian Knowledge : in each of the three 
 places a library has likewise been instituted. 
 (d DUNSCORE, a parish, in the county of Dumfries, 
 9 miles (N. W.) from Dumfries ; containing, with the 
 village of Cottack, 1517 inhabitants. This place is not 
 remarkable for any events of historical importance, but 
 it was formerly the seat of some families of considerable 
 antiquity, the chief of whom were the Griersons of Lag, 
 of Chapel, and of Dalgoner, the Kirks or Kirkhoes of 
 Bogrie and Sundaywell, and the Kirkpatricks of Ellies- 
 land and Friars' Carse. The Griersons possessed the 
 Tower of Lag, now a ruin, for many generations, Gilbert 
 M'Gregor or Grierson having migrated from the High- 
 lands about the year 1408, and obtained the lands from 
 John McWrath : in the conveyance deed Gilbert is de- 
 scribed as armour-bearer to Archibald, Earl of Douglas. 
 A descendant of this family joined the Maxwells of 
 Nithsdale against the Johnstones of Annandale, and 
 fought at the famous battle of Dry fe- Sands in 1593. 
 There is still a lineal representative of the family re- 
 maining in the parish. Considerable estates at Dun- 
 score were given to the monks of Melrose by Affrica, 
 daughter of Edgar, son of Dunevald and grandson of 
 Dunegal of Stranith, a term implying " the strath or 
 valley of Nith ": Edgar had possessed the lands under 
 'William the Lion, and been succeeded in them by Jiis 
 daughter, who assigned so large a portion to the monks. 
 The benefice of Dunscore, however, belonged to the 
 monastery of Holywood, and the cure was served by a 
 vicar. In the parish are some lands called the Friars' 
 Carse, formerly a monkish residence dependent on the 
 establishment of Melrose ; a small loch on the property, 
 containing an artificial island, is said to have been the 
 ancient fishpond, and the island the place where the 
 monks hid their valuables when the English invaded 
 Stranith. 
 
 The PARISH is twelve miles long, and varies in breadth 
 from half a mile to three miles and a half, containing 
 351 
 
 12,500 acres. It is bounded on the north by the pa- 
 rishes of Glencairn and Keir; on the south by the 
 parish of Holywood and the stewartry of Kirkcudbright ; 
 on the east by the river Nith, which separates it from 
 the parish of Kirkmahoe ; and on the west by the loch 
 and water of Urr, dividing it from the stewartry. In 
 the neighbourhood of the Nith the surface is flat, but in 
 other parts it is greatly diversified with hills and valleys ; 
 the upper district is mountainous and rocky, and Bogrie, 
 the most elevated hill, rises more than 1200 feet above 
 the level of the Solway Firth. The Nith runs for two 
 miles along the boundary ; and the Cairn, a much more 
 rapid stream, over which is a bridge eighty feet in span, 
 divides the parish into two parts, and after receiving the 
 Clouden, falls into the Nith a little below Irongray. In 
 the lower district the soil is in general a light gravelly 
 or sandy earth ; the holm land on the banks of the Nith 
 and the Cairn is alluvial, and much richer and deeper : 
 in the upper parts the soil is mostly a kind of loam, on 
 a tilly subsoil, and very stony. There are considerable 
 tracts of peat-moss. Full three-fourths of the land are 
 under cultivation ; 500 acres are meadow, 250 planta- 
 tion, chiefly consisting of larch and fir, and sixty natural 
 wood, consisting of birch and oak. All kinds of grain 
 are raised, as well as green crops ; agriculture has been 
 gradually advancing for some time past, and improve- 
 ments have been effected in every department. On the 
 estates of AUanton, Dalgoner, Friars' Carse, and Stro- 
 quhan are good and substantial mansion-houses. The 
 inhabitants are chiefly employed in husbandry, but weav- 
 ing is also carried on, to an inconsiderable extent. The 
 Glasgow and Dumfries turnpike-road passes through the 
 parish, from which a branch strikes off at the lodge of 
 Friars' Carse, leading westward through Balmaclellan to 
 New Galloway ; there is also a road intersecting the pa- 
 rish from Dumfries to Ayr. The annual value of real 
 property in Dunscore is £8900. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery and synod of Dumfries ; patron, 
 the Crown. The stipend of the minister is the minimum, 
 with an addition of £12. 12. voluntarily given by the 
 heritors since 1793 : there is a good manse, with a glebe 
 of fifty-one acres. The church, standing in the village 
 of Cottack, in the centre of the parish, is a well-built 
 structure, surmounted with an elegant square tower at 
 the west end ; it was erected in 1823, and contains 850 
 persons. The members of the Free Church have a place 
 of worship, and there is a meeting-house belonging to the 
 United Presbyterian Synod. Three parochial schools are 
 supported, in which the classics, with all the usual 
 branches of education, are taught : about £51 per annum 
 are portioned equally among the masters, who also receive 
 the interest of £300 bequeathed about a century ago, by 
 Mr. Grierson of Edinburgh. The master of the central 
 school has, in addition, the interest of £50 bequeathed in 
 1807 by Mrs. Janet Dobie, and of £50 left in 1829 by 
 Robert M'Kinnel, Esq., of McMurdoston, who also at 
 the same time left £200 for the school in the lower dis- 
 trict. Among the relics of antiquity are those on Spring- 
 field hill, a considerable eminence ; consisting of traces 
 of a military station, supposed to be Roman, of an ob- 
 long form, and covering two acres of ground : there ap- 
 pears to have been an entrance on the east side. Burns 
 the poet resided for several years in the parish, at the 
 farm of EUiesland.
 
 DUNS 
 
 DUNSE, a market-town, burgh, and parish, in the 
 county of Berwick, 15 miles (\V.) from Berwick, and 
 42 (S. E.) from Edinburgh ; containing, with the former 
 quoad sacra district of Boston, 3l6'2 inhabitants. This 
 place derived its name from the situation of the ancient 
 town on the north-western acclivity of the hill on the 
 south side of which, after the old town was burnt by the 
 English, the present was erected near the base of the 
 eminence, towards the close of the sixteenth century. It 
 is neatly built ; the houses are chiefly modern, and of 
 good, and in some instances handsome, appearance : the 
 streets are spacious, well paved, and lighted, and the in- 
 habitants are amply supplied with water by a committee 
 of the feuars, at the expense of the common property 
 of the town. There are neither any manufactures, nor 
 much business carried on here, except such handicraft 
 trades as are requisite for the supply of the inhabitants 
 and the immediate neighbourhood ; but the town is thriv- 
 ing, and is one of the most important in this part of 
 Scotland. A public library, forming a very fair collec- 
 tion, is maintained by subscription ; and there are also 
 a reading-room furnished with newspapers and periodical 
 publications, and two circulating libraries that are libe- 
 rally supported. The post has a good delivery. The 
 market is on Wednesday, and fairs for cattle and horses 
 arc held in June, August, and November, and are well 
 attended ; there are also markets in March, May, July, 
 and September, for sheep, of which a great number are 
 sold. Facility of communication with Berwick, Edin- 
 burgh, and other places, is afforded by the Dunse branch 
 of the North-British railway, and by excellent roads. 
 
 A charter was granted In 1489, by James IV., consti- 
 tuting the town a burgh of barony, with power to 
 choose magistrates, and to exercise all the privileges 
 usually enjoyed by burghs of barony ; and these rights 
 appear to have been exercised for nearly two centuries, 
 during which the bailies and burgesses had municipal 
 jurisdiction within the limits of the burgh. In I67O, a 
 charter was granted by Charles II. to Sir James Cock- 
 burn, who had purchased the lands of Dunse from the 
 Homes of Ayton, confirming all the previous immunities, 
 which were afterwards vested in the family of Hay of 
 Drummelzier, whose descendant William Hay, Esq., of 
 Dunse Castle, is the present superior of the barony. 
 Under the superior the government of the burgh is ad- 
 ministered by a baron-bailie, who exercises the ordinary 
 jurisdiction in cases of petty offences against the peace, 
 and in pleas of debt and trespass to a limited amount. 
 The town-hall, erected in 1816 at an expense of £'2688, 
 of which £1488 were raised by the sale of the common 
 belonging to the burgh, and the remainder by subscrip- 
 tion, is a handsome edifice in the ancient style of English 
 architecture, the upper part containing a spacious hall or 
 court-room for the transaction of business relating to the 
 burgh, and for the holding of public meetings, under 
 which are some shops. The police is under the direction 
 of commissioners under the general burgh police act, 
 who represent the ancient burgesses, and unite with the 
 baron-bailie in the general management of the town. 
 There are within the burgh 148 houses of the annual 
 value of £10 and upwards, and eighty-four of more than 
 £.5 and under £10. 
 
 The PARISH is about six miles in length from south- 
 east to north-west, and three miles and a half in average 
 breadth, and of very irregular form. It is bounded on 
 352 
 
 DUNS 
 
 the north and east for a considerable space by the river 
 Whitadder, and comprises 12,000 acres, of which nearly 
 6000 are arable, 1000 in woods and plantations, and the 
 remainder hill-pasture. The surface is exceedingly diver- 
 sified : in the north it forms part of the Lammermoor 
 range of hills, including Cockburn Law, which is about 
 900 feet above the level of the sea, and a conspicuous 
 landmark for vessels navigating the coast ; and in the 
 eastern and southern portions, also, it rises in gentle un- 
 dulations to a considerable height, attaining at Dunse 
 Law an elevation of 630 feet above the sea. Besides the 
 Whitadder, there is a small rivulet called Langtou burn, 
 which has its source in the parish of that name, and after 
 forming a part of its southern boundary, falls into the 
 Blackadder near Wcdderburn. There are springs of 
 water fit for domestic use in the town, and a supply was 
 formerly obtained from a spring on Dunse Law ; but by 
 the appropriation to that purpose of a considerable sum 
 of money bequeathed by Alexander Christie, Esq., of 
 Grueldykes, an abundant supply of excellent soft water 
 has, with the permission of Mr. Hay, been conveyed in 
 pipes from a spring near the site of the old town. There 
 is a lake of artificial construction, formed in the grounds 
 of Dunse Castle for the enibelhshment of the demesne. 
 Salmon and grilse are found in abundance in the Whit- 
 adder, during the months of September and October ; 
 and in the month of May, trout of a delicate flavour 
 are plentiful in the Langtonburn. The scenery is richly 
 diversified, displaying in some parts a considerable bold- 
 ness of feature, and in others much picturesque beauty ; 
 and from the higher grounds are extensive and finely- 
 varied prospects. 
 
 In the northern district of the parish the soil is of a 
 dry gravelly quality, in the south a rich deep loam, and 
 in those parts in the more immediate vicinity of the town 
 a dark sandy loam. The crops are, grain of all kinds, 
 potatoes, and turnips. The system of agriculture is in a 
 very advanced state, and the five-shift course generally 
 practised ; the lands are well drained and inclosed, and 
 all the improvements in hu.sbandry and in agricultural 
 implements have been adopted. A due degree of attention 
 is paid to live stock ; the sheep are of the Leicester and 
 Cheviot breeds, and the cattle of the short-horned or 
 Teeswater, with the exception of some Kyloes or High- 
 land oxen fattened for home consumption, the others 
 being chiefly reared for the Enghsh markets. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £15,922. The 
 woods and plantations are under good management, and 
 in a very thriving condition. The chief substrata are 
 greywacke and greywackc-slate, with alternations of 
 greenstone and of red sandstone both of the old and new 
 formation : granite and porphyry are found in some of 
 the hills. The sandstone is quarried in the southern part 
 of the parish, and abounds with vegetable impressions. 
 Dunse Castle is an elegant and spacious mansion in the 
 ancient English style, mostly of modern erection, and 
 including the old tower built by Randolph, Earl of Moray, 
 which is incorporated with the present structure ; it is 
 beautifully situated in a demesne tastefully laid out, and 
 embellished with the lake already referred to, abounding 
 with tench and perch. li'edderbiiTn Castle is a stately 
 mansion in the Grecian style, finely seated in richly- 
 planted grounds ; and Manderston is also a handsome 
 house, the grounds of which are embellished with a sheet 
 of water, and flourishing plantations. 
 
 }
 
 DUNS 
 
 DUNS 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Dunse, synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and in the pa- 
 tronage of Wilham Hay, Esq. ; the minister's stipend is 
 of the average value of £300, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £25 per annum. Dunse church, erected in 
 1790 to replace the ancient building, of Norman charac- 
 ter, which had fallen into decay, is a plain neat edifice 
 adapted for a congregation of 900 persons. There are 
 places of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod and 
 members of the Free Church. The parochial school 
 affords education to about 1'20 children ; the master has 
 a salary of £34, with £70 fees, and a house and garden. 
 The poor have the proceeds of a legacy of £100 by Ge- 
 neral Dickson, and of one of £1000 by Alexander Christie, 
 Esq. There are also two friendly societies and a savings' 
 bank, which have contributed to diminish the number of 
 applications for parochial relief. The foundations are 
 still remaining of Edinsliall Castle, situated on the slope 
 of Cockburn Law, and one of the earliest of the fortresses 
 erected by the Saxons on their invasion of Britain. It 
 was of circular form, about eighty-six feet in diameter, 
 and the walls were nearly sixteen feet in thickness, and 
 perforated in the interior with numerous cells, extending 
 round the whole, and apparently vaulted ; but the mate- 
 rials have been almost entirely removed for various pur- 
 poses, and little more than the foundations are remaining. 
 On the east and south of the circular tower, are the 
 foundations of several quadrangular buildings ; and the 
 whole was defended by ramparts of stone and earth, be- 
 tween which were trenches of considerable depth. From 
 the situation of the building, it appears to have been 
 rather intended for a residence than a military post. On 
 the summit of Dunse Law are vestiges of the intrenched 
 camp occupied by General Leslie and 20,000 Covenanters 
 in the year 1639. Boston, author of the Fourfold State, 
 a well-known religious work ; Abraham Robertson, LL.D., 
 Savilian professor of astronomy in the university of Ox- 
 ford ; the Rev. Thomas Mc Crie, D.D., author of the 
 Life of John Knox and other works ; and the Rev. James 
 Gray, who, officiating in his ministerial capacity at Cutch, 
 in the East Indies, and superintending the education of 
 the prince of that country, died there in 1830, were na- 
 tives of the place. It is said that the celebrated Duns 
 Scotus was likewise born at Dunse, in the year 1274, 
 .and the place where his house is supposed to have stood 
 is still pointed out. 
 iClu/j) DUNSHELT, or Daneshalt, a village, in the parish 
 , J of AucHTERMUCHTY, district of Cupar, county of Fife, 
 ' I mile (S. E.) of Auchtermuchty ; containing 646 inha- 
 bitants. This place takes its name from its having been 
 the retreat of the Danes, who, in one of their invasions, 
 being defeated in the battle of Falkland Muir, retired 
 from the field, and took refuge from the pursuit of the 
 conquerors in the lower part of the parish. The village 
 is pleasantly situated on the river Eden, and on the road 
 to Falkland. It is chiefly inhabited by persons emplo5'ed 
 in the weaving of linen and cotton goods for the manu- 
 factures of Glasgow, Aberdeen, and Dundee. There is a 
 place of worship for dissenters, and also a school in the 
 village. 
 ('^ DUNSYRE, a parish, in the Upper ward of the 
 county of Lanark, I5 mile (W. N. W.) from Roberton, 
 and .5 miles (S. W.) from Linton ; containing 288 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 68 are in the village. This place, the 
 name of which, of Celtic origin, is supposed to signify 
 Vol. I.— 353 
 
 the " hill of the seer ", appears to have formed part of 
 the possessions of various families of distinction in the 
 earlier periods of Scottish history, and is now, with the 
 exception of a small portion, the property of Sir Norman 
 Macdonald Lockhart, Bart. The parish is more than 
 four miles in length from north to south, and from three 
 to four miles in breadth, and is bounded on the east and 
 south by the South Medwin, and on the north by the 
 North Medwin and Dryburn. It comprises an area of 
 11,000 acres, of which about one-eighth are arable, and 
 the remainder pasture and waste, with about forty acres 
 of woodland and plantations. The surface is generally 
 elevated, and rises into hills of considerable height, of 
 which that of Dunsyre forms the termination of the 
 Pentland hills, a range extending nearly twenty miles 
 from the immediate vicinity of Edinburgh. This hill has 
 an elevation of 500 feet above the general surface of the 
 lands, and of 1230 feet above the sea; and a small 
 range of gradually diminishing hills branches off from 
 it towards the west, stretching to the parish of Carnwath. 
 Between the Dunsyre and Walston ranges is the level 
 valley of the South Medwin, about three miles in length 
 and a mile broad. The scenery of the parish is en- 
 livened with plantations and with numerous streams, of 
 which the only one that may be called a river is the 
 South Medwin, having its source in the north-eastern 
 extremity of the parish, near the base of Cragingar, and 
 which, flowing through the valley, is, after a course of 
 two or three miles further, diverted towards the west, 
 where it receives a stream called the West water, issuing 
 from the hills to the north. Craneloch is about a mile 
 in circumference, but being situated in the moorland, its 
 scenery is destitute of beauty, presenting nothing but 
 marshy lands skirted with heath ; it abounds with pike 
 and perch, and trout are also found in the Medwins. 
 The lands abound with springs of excellent water, and 
 there are some which have a petrifying quality, and 
 others strongly impregnated with iron. 
 
 The SOIL is generally light and sandy, in some parts 
 intermixed with clay, and in others almost a barren 
 heath ; the crops are oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips. 
 The system of agriculture is advanced, and the rotation 
 plan of husbandry universally adopted ; the lands have 
 been drained to a considerable extent, and the channel 
 of the South Medwin straiglitened to afford greater 
 facilities for draining the marshy grounds in its vicinity. 
 Attention is paid to the management of the dairy, and 
 to the improvement of stock ; the milch-cows on the 
 dairy-farms are all of the Ayrshire breed, and a cross- 
 breed of cattle of a heavier stock is reared for agricul- 
 tural purposes and for the market. More than 3000 
 sheep, chiefly of the black-faced breed, are pastured. 
 Considerable quantities of cheese and butter are sent to 
 the neighbouring markets ; and the dairy produce 
 generally is esteemed equal in quality to that of any 
 part of the county of Ayr. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £2624. The substrata are 
 mainly whinstone of a bluish colour, freestone, and an 
 indifferent kind of limestone, with partial seams of a 
 much purer kind resembling grey marble, and varying 
 from eight to sixteen feet in depth. Traces of iron-ore 
 are found in several places, and copper-ore is supposed 
 to exist. Coal is also thought to prevail in some parts, 
 but no efficient attempt to procure it has yet been made. 
 The woods and plantations are chiefly Scotch fir and 
 
 2 Z
 
 D UNT 
 
 D U R I 
 
 larch, but they are rather diminishing than increasing 
 in extent. The village is pleasantly situated in the vale 
 of the North Medwin : at Medwin Bank are a carding- 
 miU and a dyeing establishment. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is in the presbytery of Biggar, synod of Lothian 
 and Tvveeddale, and in the patronage of the Crown ; the 
 minister's stipend is £156. 15., with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £28 per annum. Dunsyre church, situ- 
 ated on an eminence on the bank of the river South 
 Medwin, is an ancient edifice, with a tower in the later 
 English style, which was added to it in 18'20, when it 
 underwent a complete repair ; it is adapted for a con- 
 gregation of about 250 persons. The parochial school 
 is well attended ; the master has a salary of £25, with 
 £5 fees, and a house and garden. There were formerly 
 numerous castles in the vale of Dunsyre, in one of which 
 the baron-bailie held his courts. Several relics of Roman 
 antiquity still remain, and the ancient Roman road 
 through the lands to the camp at Cleghoru may be 
 traced. The entrance to the glen in which the hill of 
 Dunsyre is situated, and which is called the Garvald, 
 forms a communication between the east and west por- 
 tions of the parish ; the route of the army of Agricola 
 through this rugged defile is pointed out by a dyke of 
 earth, and some cairns are yet remaining, in which 
 sepulchral urns of burnt clay, rudely carved, have been 
 discovered. 
 
 DUNTOCHER, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in 
 the parish of Old Kilpatrick, county of Dumbarton ; 
 containing 3309 inhabitants, of whom 2749 are in the 
 village, 8 miles (N. W. by W.) from Glasgow. This very 
 thriving place, which, less than forty or fifty years 
 since, had only a few scattered houses, owes its pros- 
 perity to the enterprising spirit of a resident, Mr. William 
 Dunn, who about that period purchased the Duntocher 
 mill and extended the works for spinning cotton- yarn. 
 In the neighbourhood are now several vast establish- 
 ments for this branch of manufacture, and for weaving, 
 all of them aided by powerful steam machinery. Many 
 of the inhabitants also are employed in coal, lime, and 
 iron works, in brick-making, and various other pursuits, 
 chiefly on the property of Mr. Dunn here ; and all 
 around presents a scene of remarkable and successful 
 industry : the iron-works are principally for making 
 spades, shovels, and other implements, and those parts 
 of iron used in building sailing-vessels. The village is 
 situated about two miles distant northward from the 
 river Clyde, on the road from Kirkintilloch to Dumbar- 
 ton ; and in the immediate vicinity are the villages of 
 Faifley and Hardgate. A sub post-office has been esta- 
 blished under Glasgow. At Duntocher is a bridge sup- 
 posed by some to be a Roman structure, and near 
 which is a modern engraved stone stating that it was 
 erected in the reign of Adrian ; but it is probable that 
 the materials whereof it is built were obtained at a more 
 recent date from a contiguous Roman fort, the lines of 
 which can with difficulty be traced : the bridge was re- 
 paired in 1/72 by the then Lord Blantyre. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally, Duntocher is in the presbytery of Dumbarton, 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the stipend of the minister 
 is £114, produced by seat-rents and collections, and 
 the patronage is vested in the male communicants. The 
 church was erected in 1836, at the cost of about £1660, 
 contributed by the General Assembly and by opulent 
 individuals in the neighbourhood, and is a very chaste 
 354 
 
 and handsome edifice, containing accommodation for 
 S76 persons. The members of the Free Church have a 
 place of worship, and there are two other meeting-houses 
 and a Roman Catholic chapel ; besides schools. A 
 sepulchral stone of Roman origin, and of elegant design 
 and workmanship, was discovered some time since. In 
 the front of the house next the bridge is placed a square 
 stone with figures carved upon each side of it, found in 
 the vicinity some time ago : it is supposed to have been 
 the principal part of an altar to Jupiter Olympus, and 
 the owner has several times been olTered a considerable 
 sum for it. Not far from the other end of the bridge, a 
 few years since, there was discovered the mouth of a 
 vault that entered the hill in a south-east direction ; and 
 when examined by some of the inhabitants, a number 
 of small rooms were found not far from the entrance, 
 in some of which the ashes where fires had been kindled 
 were still to be seen. The interior was wholly of brick- 
 work, a part of which has since been removed for other 
 purposes. 
 
 DUPPLIN, county of Perth, — See Aberdalgie. 
 
 DURINISH, Isle of Skye.— See Duirimsh. 
 
 DURISDEER, a parish, in 'the county of DuM^ 
 FRIES; containing, with part of the village of Carron- 
 bridge, 1445 inhabitants, of whom 107 are in the vil- 
 lage of Durisdeer, 6 miles (N. by E.) from Thornhill. 
 This district, which in ancient times was covered with 
 wood, is supposed to derive its name from duris, sig- 
 nifying a door, and deer, a forest. Several great fami- 
 lies have been connected with it, the chief of which are 
 those of Douglas, Stuart, the Menzies of Enock, and 
 the Hunters of Balagan. Its castle, with the fortresses 
 of Dumfries, Dalswinton, and Morton, by an agreement 
 between the English and the Scots, was demolished, as 
 troublesome to the former, at the restoration of King 
 David Bruce, who, after being captured at the battle of 
 Durham, had been kept eleven years prisoner in Eng- 
 land. The parish is eight miles long and six broad, 
 and contains nearly 20,000 acres. It is almost sur- 
 rounded by hills, covered with grass, heath, or bent, 
 and the highest of which are the Lowthers, on its north- 
 eastern side, which rise 3130 feet above the level of the 
 sea : the climate is bleak, but dry and healthy. The 
 river Nith runs through the lands, in a direction from 
 north-west to south-east, and besides this important 
 stream, there are five considerable burns, viz., the 
 Enterkin, the Carron, the Hapland, the Maarburn, and 
 the burn at Crarie-Knoll. 
 
 The soil in general is loamy, deep, and fertile, in 
 many places inclining to a reddish colour; in some 
 parts it is gravelly and sandy, and occasionally wet and 
 heavy. About 7896 acres are cultivated, 9554 are hill- 
 pasture, and 2000 are occupied by wood, including 500 
 acres that are of natural growth : the plantations chiefly 
 consist of hard-woods, in the thinning of which every 
 tree is in course of time removed, except the oak. The 
 usual kinds of grain and various green crops are raised, 
 of good quality ; the cattle are of the Galloway breed, 
 and the sheep the black-faced : the improved system of 
 husbandry is followed, and considerable advances have 
 been made in fencing, the construction of farm-build- 
 ings, and the formation of roads. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £7901. The rocks in the 
 hills are whinstone or greywacke, and on the low 
 grounds chiefly sandstone of a red colour, and very soft. 
 
 I
 
 D U R N 
 
 D U R N 
 
 though in some places white, and of a much firmer 
 texture : quarries have been opened for stone adapted 
 for farm-buildings and dykes. Drumlanrig Castle, in 
 the parish, a seat of the Duke of Buccleuch and Queens- 
 berry, whose property extends over a very large district 
 in this part of the country, is described under its own 
 head. The village is situated near the eastern boundary 
 of the parish, on the road from Dumfries to Edinburgh. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Penpont, synod of Dumfries ; patron, the 
 Duke of Buccleuch. The stipend of the minister is 
 £221, and there is a manse, with a glebe valued at £25 
 per annum. Durisdeer church, erected in 1720, con- 
 tains a handsome marble monument, representing James, 
 second Duke of Queensberry, weeping over the form of 
 his deceased duchess : a vault attached to the church 
 is the burying-place of the family. There are two paro- 
 chial schools, in which the classics and the usual 
 branches of education are taught ; the salaries of the 
 masters are respectively £30 and £24, with about £10 
 fees each, and the accommodation of a house each. A 
 third school is carried on in the parish, at Enterkinford ; 
 the master receives £10 per annum from the Duke of 
 Buccleuch. About a mile above the church are vestiges 
 of a Roman camp which appears to have been a summer 
 station connected with the camp at Tibbers. 
 ri DURNESS, a parish, in the county of Suther- 
 land, 20 miles (N. W. by W.) from Tongue, and 76 
 (N. W.) from Golspie, containing 1109 inhabitants. 
 This parish probably derives its name, which is of 
 doubtful origin, from Durin, the principal township, 
 and ness, a headland or promontory. It anciently com- 
 prised the whole of the lands called " Lord Reay's Coun- 
 try", a district SOO square miles in extent, from which, 
 since the year 1724, have been separated the parishes of 
 Tongue on the east, and Eddrachillis on the south-west. 
 The parish is bounded on the north by the North Sea, 
 and on the west by the Atlantic Ocean, and is about 
 twenty-five miles in length and twelve in average 
 breadth, comprising, with its several inlets, an area of 
 300 square miles, of which scarcely one-hundredth part 
 is under cultivation. Its surface, which is boldly diver- 
 sified, and abounds with magnificent scenery, is natu- 
 rally divided into three mountainous districts, separated 
 from each other by spacious inlets from the North Sea. 
 Of these the district of Par/, extending from the Atlantic 
 Ocean on the west to the Kyle of Durness, occupies an 
 area of more than seventy square miles ; the district of 
 Durness, reaching from the Kyle to the western shore of 
 Loch EriboU, has an area of about eighty square miles ; 
 and the district of Westmoin, extending from the east- 
 ern shore of Loch Eriboll to the morass east of Loch 
 Hope, contains nearly 100 square miles. The principal 
 Mountains in the parish are, Scribhisbheinn, Faisbheinn, 
 Fairemheall, Creigriabhach, and Bendearg, all in the 
 Parf district, varying in height from 1500 to 2500 feet ; 
 Ceannabinn, Meallmeadhonach, Cranstackie, and Ben- 
 Spionnadh, in the Durness district, of which Ben- 
 Spionnadh has an elevation of 2566 feet ; and Ben- 
 Hope, 3150 feet in height, in the district of Westmoin, 
 which contains also several ranges of lofty and pre- 
 cipitous hills. The valleys are, StTath-Dinard, extend- 
 ing from the Kyle of Durness along the river Grudy for 
 about fourteen miles ; Slrath-Beg, a narrow fertile vale 
 about two miles in length ; and Strathmore, extending 
 355 
 
 from the north base of Ben-Hope, for about six miles, 
 along the banks of the river to which it gives name. 
 Among the rivers are the Strathmore IVater, which has 
 its source in Glen-gollie, and having run for ten miles, 
 flows into Loch Hope ; the Hope, which is merely a 
 continuation of the Strathmore Water ; and the Dinard, 
 which rises in Loch Dinard, and after a course of ten 
 miles falls into the Kyle of Durness. These rivers are im- 
 petuous, especially when swollen after heavy rains, and 
 afford good fishing. There are numerous inland lakes, of 
 which the most extensive is Loch Hope, six miles in 
 length, and about half a mile broad. Loch Borley is one 
 mile in length, abounding with char, and in its centre is 
 a beautiful green island. Loch Crospul is about half a 
 mile in length, and has abundance of trout. Loch Dinard 
 and various others are of still less extent. 
 
 The COAST is generally bold and elevated, and in most 
 parts defended by a chain of rocks, rising precipitously 
 from the sea to heights varying from 200 to 700 feet ; in 
 some places the shore is low and sandy, and at the bay 
 of Balnakiel are hills of shifting sand. The headlands 
 are, Cape Wrath, Farout Head, and Whiten Head. A 
 lighthouse has been erected on the first-named, at an 
 elevation of 350 feet above the level of the sea : the build- 
 ing, which is of granite found near the spot, was com- 
 menced under the direction of the lords commissioners 
 in 1827, and is about fifty feet in height, displaying a 
 revolving light alternately red and white, and visible at 
 a distance of twelve nautical miles. Since its completion, 
 wrecks, which were previously frequent, have seldom 
 occurred. Of the inlets that intersect the parish, the 
 principal are, the Kyle of Durness, about six miles in 
 length, and one mile in average breadth ; and, to the 
 east of this. Loch Eriboll, ten miles long, and varying 
 from one mile to four miles in breadth. The chief bays 
 are, Durness, between the district of Parf and the long 
 promontory of Farout Head ; the small bay of Balnakiel, 
 to the east ; and the bay of Camisendun, in Loch Eriboll, 
 affording excellent anchorage, and resorted to by vessels 
 unable to double Cape Wrath or enter the Pentland Firth. 
 There are several islands off the coast, of which Garvellan, 
 to the east of the Cape, and about a mile from the shore, 
 is 100 yards long, nearly of equal breadth, and sixty 
 feet high, and is frequented by various species of sea- 
 fowl. Hoan, near the entrance of Loch Eriboll, is one 
 mile in length, and half a mile in breadth, covered with 
 verdure ; and Choaric, within the loch, is of equal di- 
 mensions and fertility : in both there are places of sepul- 
 ture, said to have been originally selected for security 
 from the depredation of wolves which infested the parish. 
 Numerous caverns have been formed in the rocks along 
 the coast by the action of the waves ; the most remark- 
 able is Smo, two miles eastward of the church, having 
 natural arches of great height, in some parts 100 feet 
 wide, and abounding with features of romantic character. 
 About a mile from the eastern part of the coast, towards 
 the north, are the rocks called the Stags, whose sum- 
 mits only are above water ; and at some distance from 
 Cape Wrath are others, visible only at neap tides ; all 
 of which, previously to the erection of the lighthouse, 
 were frequently fatal to vessels making for the Cape. 
 
 Of the small portion of land under cultivation, the 
 soil is generally clay or moss, resting on a substratum 
 of limestone and clay, and the crops are grain of various 
 kinds and potatoes ; but the parish is principally pas- 
 
 2 Z 2
 
 D U 11 N 
 
 D U R R 
 
 toral, and dependent in a great measure on its fisheries. 
 Owing to the smallness and quality of the lots, there is 
 an annual importation of from 300 to 500 bolls of oat- 
 meal. The cattle are of the Highland breed, and the 
 sheep, with the exception of a few of the black-faced, are 
 chiefly of the Cheviot breed. Several tracts of waste 
 have been reclaimed and laid down in pasture, and com- 
 fortable cottages have been built on most of the small 
 holdings. The annual value of real property in the pa- 
 rish is £1745. The herring-fishery commences in June, 
 and continues till September ; a small kind of herring 
 of superior flavour is found in Loch Eriboll, but it is 
 used only for home consumption. In this fishery are 
 engaged ten boats, manned with four men and a boy 
 each, for which the harbour of Rispond affords good 
 accommodation. The lobster-fishery commences in May, 
 and continues till August, employing six boats, with two 
 men each ; when taken the lobsters are kept in a per- 
 forated floating-chest, whence they are forwarded weekly 
 in smacks to the Loudon market. Cod and ling are 
 abundant off the coast, but they are taken only for do- 
 mestic use. Salmon are found in the river Dinard and 
 in Loch Hope, and the number caught annually, includ- 
 ing grilse, averages about 1 1,000. The cattle and sheep 
 of the parish are sent to Falkirk, and the wool to Liver- 
 pool and Hull. The harbours are. Loch Eriboll, afford- 
 ing safe anchorage and ample shelter for vessels of any 
 burthen ; Rispond, where a substantial pier has been 
 constructed ; and Port Our, near the bay of Balnakiel, 
 which is adapted only for boats. A boat-slip, also, has 
 been constructed at Clashcarnach, two miles to the east 
 of the Cape. There are considerable remains of ancient 
 wood, consisting principally of birch, growing in shel- 
 tered situations ; but no plantations have been formed. 
 At Balnakiel is an ancient mansion-house, formerly the 
 residence of Lord Reay, but now occupied by a sheep- 
 farmer. There is no village properly so called, but in 
 various parts are clusters of small houses consisting of 
 from ten to thirty each. Good roads have been con- 
 structed, among which are those from the Kyle of Dur- 
 ness to Cape Wrath, from Loch Eriboll to Tongue, and 
 a line from the west to the east of that parish, thirty- 
 four miles in length round the loch, or crossing the 
 ferry of Loch Eriboll twenty-four miles. A post-office 
 has been established, which has communication with 
 Tongue twice every week. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Tongue, synod of Sutherland and Caith- 
 ness. The minister's stipend is £158. 6. S., of which 
 more than two-thirds are paid from the exchequer ; 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum : 
 the patronage is in the Crown. Durness church, situated 
 within a few yards of the sea-shore, is a plain structure 
 erected in I6l9, and containing 300 sittings. In the 
 Eriboll district, about ten miles from the parish church, 
 is a small church in connexion with the Establishment, 
 built in lSO-1, and containing 100 sittings. There is a 
 place of worship for members of the Free Church, con- 
 taining 400 sittings. The parochial school is not well 
 attended ; the master has a salary of £30, with a house 
 and garden, and the fees average £11. A school, also, 
 IS maintained by the General Assembly, and another in 
 connexion with the Free Church. There are remains of 
 several Picts' hou.ses, of which the most entire is Dorna- 
 dilla's Tower, at Strathmore, consisting of circular con- 
 356 
 
 centric walls, about 150 feet in circumference, and nearly 
 twenty feet in height. Robert Donn, the "Burns" of 
 the Highlands, author of some Gaelic poems, lies in- 
 terred in the churchyard ; and a substantial monument 
 of granite has been erected to his memory. 
 
 DUROR, a quoad sacra district, in the parish of 
 LiSMORE and Appin, district of Lorn, county of Ar- 
 gyll, 6 miles (N. N. E.) from Appin House ; containing 
 1692 inhabitants. This quoad sacra parish is situated 
 on an arm of the sea, called the Linnhe loch, into which 
 a portion of the land projects in a kind of promontory ; 
 on the north is Loch Leven, and on the south Loch 
 Creran. It includes the district of Glencoe, is about 
 twenty-eight miles in length, and averages about seven 
 in breadth ; but of this extensive area scarcely a twen- 
 tieth part is under cultivation, the rest being chiefly 
 pasturage for sheep and black-cattle, and very thinly 
 inhabited, by shepherds. The greater number of the po- 
 pulation are in Glencoe, where, and near the village, are 
 considerable slate works and quarries ; the material is 
 of a blue colour, and much esteemed, and is exported in 
 large quantities to Leith, England, and even America. 
 The surface around Glencoe is in many places wild, 
 mountainous, and romantic ; and the vale is celebrated 
 as the birthplace of Ossian, and for the cruel massacre 
 of its unsuspecting inhabitants iu I691. At Ballichulish 
 and Ardsheal are good mansions, the former rather mo- 
 dern, and the latter somewhat ancient. The district is 
 in the presbytery of Lorn, synod of Argyll ; the stipend 
 of the minister is £120, with a manse, and a glebe of 
 upwards of two acres : patron, the Crown. The church, 
 built about 1826 by the parliamentary commissioners, 
 and repaired in 1834, is a plain edifice containing ac- 
 commodation for 323 persons. In Glencoe are a mis- 
 sion church, a place of worship for members of the Free 
 Church, an episcopal chapel, and a Roman Catholic 
 chapel. Two parochial schools are supported, in which 
 English and Gaelic, and the first elements of education, 
 are taught ; the salaries of the masters respectively are 
 £18 and £8, with about £22 and £10 in fees. A mineral 
 spring here was used for medicinal purposes for some 
 time, but it lately fell into disrepute, and is now quite 
 neglected. — See Lismore and Appin, and Glencoe. 
 
 DURRIS, a parish, in the county of Kincardin^<^ 
 5 miles (E.) from Banchory-Ternan, and 13 (W. S. W.) 
 from Aberdeen; containing 1109 inhabitants. It is 
 supposed to derive its name, often pronounced Dores, 
 from a Gaelic word signifying a mouth or entrance, 
 which is descriptive of this part as affording a principal 
 entrance into the Highlands. The parish was once a 
 chapelry belonging, as is generally thought, to the an- 
 cient order of Knights Templai-s ; but its primitive his- 
 tory is involved in considerable obscurity. The estate 
 of JDurris, which extends into the neighbouring parish 
 of Banchory-Ternan, was formerly in the possession of 
 Lord Peterborough, who let it upon lease to the late 
 John Innes, Esq., of Leuchars, near Elgin. On the re- 
 duction of this lease by the supreme court, the property 
 came into the hands of Alexander, fourth Duke of Gor- 
 don, as next heir of entail ; and by authority of an act 
 of parliament transferring the entail to other lands, the 
 estate was purchased from the fifth and last duke in 
 1834 by Anthony Mactier, Esq., late of Calcutta, by 
 whom it is at present held. The parish is five and a 
 half miles long, about three and three-quarters broad,
 
 D U R R 
 
 D UTH 
 
 and contains about 17,000 acres. It is bounded on the 
 north by the river Dee, which separates it from the pa- 
 rish of Banchory-Ternan, and from Drurnoak in Aber- 
 deenshire ; and on the south by the Grampian mountains. 
 The surface is marived by great irregularities, consisting 
 of considerable tracts of f!at ground, alternated with 
 abrupt acclivities and the lofty hills of Mindernal, Mount- 
 power, Craigberg, and Cairnmonearn, the last of which 
 rises about 1200 feet above the level of the sea. There 
 are several rivulets, but the only one worth notice is the 
 Shiach burn, which, after a rapid course of twelve miles, 
 falls into the Dee at the church. 
 
 The SOIL on the haugh lands by the river side is in 
 some parts a rich and fertile loam, and in others light 
 and sandy ; in a few places the soil has a mixture of 
 clay and gravel to a considerable extent, and rests upon 
 a stiff tenacious subsoil. In almost every direction 
 throughout the parish, and even in the cultivated fields, 
 occur enormous masses of gneiss. The hills are usually 
 covered with two or three feet of moss and heath, but 
 the naked rocks often protrude ; in the hollows at the 
 base is a greater depth of moss, supplying peat in large 
 quantities and of the best description. Upwards of 
 4000 acres are under tillage, about 1500 in plantations, 
 and the rest in pasture, moss, and moor, 1000 acres of 
 which are capable of improvement at a moderate ex- 
 pense ; oats and barley are the grain raised, and of the 
 green crops turnips and potatoes are the chief The 
 sheep are the black-faced, and the cattle the black- 
 dodded kind, to which the Ayrshire breed has lately 
 been added. The five and the six years' rotations of 
 crops are generally followed ; the farm-buildings are in 
 good repair, and all belong to the proprietor. Draining 
 on the plan of Mr. Smith of Deanston has been carried 
 on to a great extent ; large tracts have been reclaimed, 
 and the appearance of the estate has been entirely 
 changed, since it came into the hands of Mr. Mactier. 
 The rocks consist principally of granite, whiustone, and 
 gneiss, the last of which is most abundant, and appears 
 to be inexhaustible ; there is limestone in several places, 
 but it has never been quarried, and its precise quality is 
 not known. The annual value of real property within 
 the parish is £3778. The chief house is that of Durris, 
 comprising a modern structure connected with a more 
 ancient mansion by an extensive colonnade : both have 
 lately been subject to considerable additions and altera- 
 tions. There is no village. A turnpike-road runs through 
 the parish for about four miles, leading from Stonehaven 
 to Banchory ; a new road from Aberdeen to Banchory, 
 completed in 1S40, passes through from east to west, 
 and several cross roads are well adapted to local con- 
 venience. Fairs are held in May, June, and September, 
 for the sale of cattle and sheep. There are two or three 
 salmon-fisheries in the river, but they have for some 
 time past been decreasing, and are now in a very low 
 condition. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery and synod of Aberdeen ; patron, Mr. Mactier. 
 The stipend of the minister is £1.58, of which £81 are 
 received from the exchequer ; and there is a manse, with 
 a globe of fifteen acres, valued at as many pounds per 
 annum. Durris church, a very plain edifice, was built 
 in the year 18'22 by the late proprietor, and accommo- 
 dates 550 persons with sittings : part of the old church 
 still remains, bearing the date 1537. There is a paro- 
 357 
 
 chial school, at which Latin is taught, with the usual 
 branches of a plain education ; the master has a salary 
 of £'29, with £20 fees. Another school, commonly called 
 Hogg's Charity School, was instituted by Mr. Hogg, a 
 native of the parish, who left £5 per annum to a teacher, 
 who was required to educate gratuitously ten poor chil- 
 dren recommended by the Kirk Session. The master has 
 also £4 per annum, the interest of money left for the 
 support of the school ; a small plot of land, given by 
 the late proprietor; and the fees, making in the whole 
 an income of about £30 a year. The same branches 
 are taught in this school as in the parochial school, Latin 
 excepted. There are some Druidical remains, and tumuli, 
 and several chalybeate springs in the parish : one of the 
 last, called Red-Beard's Well, from a robber of that 
 name, who is said to have lived in a neighbouring cave, 
 is in considerable repute, and in many respects resembles 
 the Harrogate chalybeate water. 
 
 DUTHIL, a parish, partly in the county of Elgin, /^ 
 and partly in the county of Inverness; comprising the 
 district of Rothiemurchus, and containing in the whole 
 parish 1769 inhabitants : the church is distant 2 miles 
 (N. E.) from Carr-Bridge, and 7^ (W.) from the village 
 of Grantown. Duthil proper is situated on the north 
 side of the river Spey, in the county of Elgin, and 
 Rothiemurchus on the south of the river, in the county 
 of Inverness. They were united in 1630, but still had 
 distinct places of worship, and a glebe in each parish. 
 In 1S30 Rothiemurchus was erected into a parliamen- 
 tary parish, with a manse and glebe to the minister, 
 and a stipend of £120 per annum : it is more fully de- 
 scribed under its own head. In ancient times Duthil 
 was called Gleann-chearnach, that is, " the glen of heroes ". 
 Its present name was given to it after the year 1400, 
 when Matilda Gumming, called Bigla beg because she 
 was of small stature, the heiress of Gilbert Gumming of 
 Gleann-chearnach, and proprietrix of these lands, re- 
 siding in the castle of Dunmuilzie, on the banks of the 
 Spey, near the church, then situated on the Deiser, fixed 
 on another site for public worship, and built a new 
 church, which was at length thrown down in 1S26 in 
 order to erect the present building. The new site was 
 chosen, that she might have the pleasure of a longer 
 ride on Sunday to hear mass and attend worship ; and 
 in order to distinguish it from the old place, which is 
 on the south side of the ridge of hills between the Spey 
 and the Dulnan, still called Deiser or Deasail, in Gaelic 
 signifying "southward or southerly", the new church, 
 being on the north side of the ridge and of the Dulraan, 
 was called ruaf/ioii, signifying "northward or northerly ". 
 Hence the modern name of the parish. 
 
 Duthil proper is wholly situated in the southern part 
 of the county of Elgin, on the north-eastern bank of the 
 Spey, and in a mountainous and thickly- wooded tract, 
 in ancient times an almost impenetrable forest ; it was 
 the scene of many deadly feuds between rival chieftains 
 in past ages, and the residence of the powerful Cum- 
 mings or Cumyns. This family possessed the principal 
 part of the estates, and for many generations maintained 
 hostilities with the Grants ; but the enmity between the 
 clans was ended by the marriage of the before-mentioned 
 Matilda, heiress of one of the Cumyns, to Sir John 
 Grant of Freuchy, the great rival, thereby fixing the 
 property in the family of Grant, with whom it has 
 remained to the present time. Duthil proper measures
 
 D UTH 
 
 about sixteen miles in length and thirteen in breadth, 
 and comprises a large proportion of uncultivated ground, 
 and of natural wood, consisting chiefly of fir ; the part 
 under tillage being of small extent. The surface pre- 
 sents a hilly, bleak, and dreary aspect, the scenery 
 taking its principal character from the extensive moors 
 and mountains, the latter covered with heather, and the 
 whole only occasionally interspersed with patches of 
 grass or corn land. A lofty range traverses the entire 
 northern side, and terminates in the Monadhlia, an im- 
 posing chain of mountains common to the districts of 
 Badenoch, Strathdearn, and Stratherrick. Parallel with 
 this, but not of equal height, a ridge passes along the 
 southern portion, bleak and barren like the other. These 
 two ranges skirt the intermediate valley of the Dulnan 
 stream, which takes its rise in the Badenoch hills, and 
 flowing through the vale from west to east, loses itself 
 in the Spey at Belentomb of Inverallen, five miles below 
 the church of Duthil. Though generally small, it over- 
 flows its banks when swollen after rain or snow, and 
 carries desolation among the neighbouring lands. Hence 
 its name, Dulnan, or Tiiilnean, in Gaelic signifying 
 " floods". The forest of Duthil or Dulnanside was de- 
 stroyed by fire at the beginning of the last century, an 
 event which was the occasion of the final extirpation of 
 the wolves, so long before the terror of the neighbour- 
 hood. There is still, however, a large forest of natural 
 Scotch fir in the northern district, where two saw-mills, 
 of two saws each, have been erected for cutting the 
 timber felled in the locality, the mills being turned by the 
 ■waters of the Dulnan. The lochs are of small extent, 
 but some of them contain fine trout, especially Loch 
 Bhruach, situated on the northern hills ; in others are 
 pike ; and salmon and trout are taken in the rivers. 
 
 The SOIL near the Dulnan and the Spey is chiefly 
 alluvial, upon a deep clayey subsoil, producing in favour- 
 able seasons heavy crops of oats. Some of the higher 
 grounds, also, though the soil is thin and gravelly, and 
 intermixed with stones, yield notwithstanding, through 
 the recent improvements in cultivation, and when aided 
 by genial seasons, an ample return in oats, bear, barley, 
 turnips, and potatoes. The system of husbandry has 
 been greatly improved within the last twenty or thirty 
 years : the five-shift course is usually followed ; much 
 waste ground has been reclaimed, and the former huts 
 of the farmers, raised with turf, have been replaced by 
 well-built stone dwellings, neatly thatched with straw. 
 Birch, alder, and fir thrive well here, and the first, which 
 grows naturally to a considerable extent, greatly relieves 
 the generally uninteresting scenery : an extensive tract 
 of barren moor along the northern bank of the Spey was 
 planted by the late Sir James Grant upwards of half a 
 century since, and the trees are now in a flourishing 
 condition. The annual value of real property in Duthil 
 and Rothiemurchus is £'2674. The Highland road be- 
 tween Perth and Inverness passes through the parish 
 for about fourteen miles ; and from the hamlet of Carr- 
 bridgc, where a post-office was established in 1836, a 
 road branches oflf to Grantown. Besides the bridge at 
 the hamlet, there is one at Sluggan, built shortly after 
 the year 1745, on the line of road formed under the 
 direction of General Wade ; but it has been almost 
 impassable since the flood of 1829. The cattle of the 
 district are sold at neighbouring markets to the south- 
 country dealers : the timber cut in the forest is sent 
 358 
 
 D Y C E 
 
 partly down the Spey, but chiefly by land-carriage to 
 Inverness. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presby- 
 tery of Abemeth}', synod of Moray, and in the patronage 
 of the Earl of Seafield : the minister's stipend is about 
 £'200, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £5 per 
 annum. Duthil church is a commodious edifice, built in 
 1S26, and accommodating between SOO and 900 persons 
 with sittings: a handsome mausoleum of grey granite has 
 lately been erected over the burial-ground of the Grant 
 family. Earls of Seafield. Rothiemurchus church is thir- 
 teen miles distant from the parish church. The parochial 
 school affords instruction in the usual branches ; the 
 master has a salary of £25. 13., with about £12 or £15 
 fees, and £32 from the Dick bequest, besides a house, 
 and a quarter of an acre of ground for a garden. There 
 is a school endowed by the Society for Propagating 
 Christian Knowledge, and another is supported by the 
 education scheme of the General Assembly : there is 
 also a female school endowed by the above society and 
 the Rev. William Grant, minister of the parish. 
 
 DYCE, a parish, in the district and county of Aber- -^9 
 DEEN, 7 miles (N. N. W.) from Aberdeen j containing 
 472 inhabitants. This parish was in remote times called 
 the chapelry of St. Fergus, to whom the present church 
 was dedicated ; and it is supposed that, with several 
 adjacent parishes, it was anciently connected with the 
 cathedral of Old Machar. It is about six miles in ex- 
 treme length, and between three and four in breadth, 
 and contains 4667 acres. Dyce is bounded by the pa- 
 rish of Fintray on the north, by that of Newhills on the 
 south and south-west, by Kiuellar on the north-west, 
 and by Old and New Machar on the east. The surface 
 is not marked by any very striking peculiarities, being 
 in general tolerably level, with the exception of the land 
 in the north-west, whence the broad hill of Tyrebagger 
 slopes towards the south-east for a distance of about 
 three miles, and then loses itself in the plain below. 
 The river Don runs along the northern and eastern 
 boundaries of the parish, and after a further course of a 
 few miles in a south-eastern direction, falls into the 
 German Ocean two miles north of Aberdeen : the trout- 
 fishing during the months of March and April is very 
 superior. 
 
 The finest soil is that of the low grounds along the 
 banks of the river, consisting of alluvial deposit, and 
 producing rich and heavy crops ; in the other parts the 
 soil is indifferent, and on the summit of the hill of Tyre- 
 bagger poor and thin. The number of acres under cul- 
 tivation is 2910, in wood II76, and in waste 5S1 acres, 
 out of which 237 are considered capable of profitable 
 cultivation. The system of agriculture here followed is 
 a rotation of five, six, or seven years : the five years' 
 consists of grain; turnips; bear, and sometimes oats, 
 with clover and rye-grass ; hay or pasture; and pasture. 
 Large flocks of sheep were formerly to be seen, but they 
 have been greatly diminished since the inclosures and the 
 plantations in the parish were made, and there are now 
 but a small number kept for home consumption : the 
 cattle are mostly the native Aberdeen, frequently crossed 
 with the short-horned breed, and in some grounds these 
 latter are preferred unmixed. The farm-houses are in 
 general good and substantial dwellings, and some of 
 them very superior ; the steadings are complete sets of 
 buildings of a quadrangular form, slated, and usually 
 supplied with threshing-mills. On the smaller farms. 
 
 .
 
 D Y C E 
 
 DYKE 
 
 however, the houses and inclosures are of an inferior 
 description, though in a state of progressive improve- 
 ment. Great changes have been effected within the last 
 twenty or thirty years on the inferior soils, six or seven 
 hundred acres of which have been successfully treated ; 
 and a large embankment has been raised as a protection 
 against the destructive inundations of the river Don, 
 the floods of which have recently been much augmented 
 through the multiplication of drains. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish now amounts to £35/0. 
 
 The prevailing rock in the district is granite ; a large 
 supply of it is obtained from quarries in the hill of Tyre- 
 bagger, and stone has at various times been cut for the 
 Bell-rock lighthouse, Sheerness quay, Deptford quay, 
 the West India docks, the Custom-house of London, 
 St. Katherine's docks, and new London bridge. Very 
 extensive plantations of Scotch fir and larch have been 
 made on the hill, which are the resort of roe-deer, black- 
 cock, and wood-cock ; but the grouse that were so nu- 
 merous before the formation of plantations have almost 
 entirely disappeared. On the lower grounds are found 
 partridges, snipe, wild-duck, hares, and rabbits. The 
 inhabitants of the parish are employed chiefly in agri- 
 culture, and in working in the quarries. The great 
 tnrnpike-road from Aberdeen to Inverness, via Huntly, 
 runs along the western boundary for about two miles ; 
 and the turnpike-road from Aberdeen to Banff crosses 
 the eastern quarter. The centre is intersected by the 
 canal from Aberdeen to Inverury, by which coal, lime, 
 and manure are brought up, and grain and other farm 
 produce sent back, passage-boats plying on it twice a 
 day during summer. Among the mansions are, Caskie- 
 ben, the seat of Dr. Alexander Henderson, author of a 
 work on wines, and Pitmedden, both modern buildings. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen. The 
 stipend of the minister is £160, of which nearly a third 
 is drawn from the exchequer ; there is a manse, with 
 good offices, built some few years since, and the glebe is 
 valued at £J. 10. per annum : patron, John Gordon Gum- 
 ming Skene, Esq. Dyce church is an old edifice of un- 
 certain date, small and uncomfortable. It stands at the 
 northern extremity of the parish, upon a rocky point 
 formed by a winding of the river Don, and commands a 
 fine view, extending to twenty miles, of the scenery with 
 which the course of that stream is ornamented. There 
 is a parochial school, in which Latin is taught, with 
 the usual branches of education ; the master has the 
 maximum salary, fees amounting to about £8, and an 
 allowance from the fund of the late Mr. Dick. The 
 chief relic of antiquity is a Druidical temple situated on 
 the southern slope of Tyrebagger hill, and commanding 
 an extensive view of the sea-coast and the lower grounds; 
 it is formed of ten large pieces of granite, disposed about 
 eight feet distant from each other, in the form of a 
 circle, and rising to the height of from five to ten feet 
 above the ground. In the churchyard is one of the 
 oblong monumental stones commonly supposed to be of 
 Runic origin, but justly traced to more recent times ; 
 among a great variety of other sculpture, it is marked 
 by a cross, forming a prominent object in the graving. 
 About a mile above the bridge of Dyce (where the Banff 
 road crosses the river), and half a mile south from the 
 river, is a round deep hollow, in the middle of an arable 
 field, called The Lady's Jointure : the tradition respect- 
 3.59 
 
 ing it is, that, long ago, a lady of Dyce, having teased 
 her lord for a certain portion of the estate to be set 
 apart as her jointure, was taken to the bottom of this 
 hollovi', and told that she should receive as much of the 
 property as she could then see ; which was only about 
 an acre. Urns have sometimes been discovered in the 
 parish. Arthur Johnston, a celebrated Latin scholar, 
 was connected with this place. 
 
 DYKE and MOY, a parish, in the county of Elgin, f^ 
 3 miles (W.) from Forres ; containing, with the villages 
 of Kintessack and Whitemyre, 1366 inhabitants, of 
 whom 166 are resident in the village of Dyke. These 
 two ancient parishes, whose names are descriptive of 
 the former as a channel for waters, and of the latter 
 as a level and fertile plain, were united in the year 16 IS. 
 The whole is bounded on the north by the Moray Firth, 
 and on the west by the county of Nairn, and comprises 
 about 17,300 acres, of which 32'20 are arable, 2800 wood- 
 land and plantations, 1300 meadow and pasture, and the 
 remainder waste. The surface is generally undulated 
 within the district of Dyke, which contains the forest of 
 Darnaway towards the south, and the woods of Dalvy 
 and Brodie towards the north. In the district of Moy 
 is a fine extent of level plain, stretching northward to 
 Kincorth, on the western shore of Findhorn loch, to- 
 wards the lands of Culbin, which at a very early period 
 ■were overwhelmed with drifts of sand, and are now 
 covered with sand-hills, some of them having an eleva- 
 tion of 100 feet. The river Findliorn, which, in its 
 course to the sea at the village of Findhorn, forms the 
 eastern boundary of the parish, in 18'29 rose to an un- 
 usual height, and carried into the bay an immense 
 quantity of sand, which for three square miles diminished 
 its depth by nearly two feet. Several rivulets intersect 
 the parish, and flow into the Findhorn, of which the 
 largest is the Muckleburn ; they all abound with tront, 
 affording good sport to the angler, and the salmon- 
 fishery in the Findhorn is of considerable value. The 
 coast, throughout the entire extent of the parish for 
 about six miles, is shallow and sandy : there are nume- 
 rous beds of cockles, which not only afford an abundant 
 supply of sustenance to the poor, but are sold by the 
 women through the adjoining district, making an average 
 return of more than £100 per annum. 
 
 On the level lands the soil is a rich brown and black 
 loam, generally light and easily cultivated : in other 
 parts of the parish are alternations of sand and gravel. 
 The crops are wheat, barley, oats, turnips, and potatoes, 
 with the usual grasses. The system of agriculture is in 
 an improved state, and furrow-draining has been tried 
 with success upon one or more of the farms : lime, marl, 
 and bone-dust have been extensively used. The farm- 
 buildings, though more commodious than formerly, are 
 susceptible of still further improvement. There are six- 
 teen threshing-mills, the greater number of them worked 
 by horses. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £.594'2. The wood consists of oak, ash, beech, 
 elm, Scotch fir, larch, spruce, birch, horse-chesnut, syca- 
 more, and alder; and timber is regularly sold for ship- 
 building and other purposes. In this parish the sub- 
 strata are principally old red sandstone, with gneiss and 
 granite : there is coarse limestone, containing schist and 
 pyrites of iron ; and occasionally some lead-ore is found, 
 but not in sufficient quantity to encourage the working 
 of it. Darnaway Castle, one of the seats of the Earl of
 
 DYKE 
 
 D Y S A 
 
 Moray, situated on a gentle eminence, and surrounded 
 by an extensive and richly-wooded park, has been lately 
 enlarged and improved. One of the wings, forming the 
 more ancient part of the building, consists of a noble 
 liall eighty-nine feet in length, and thirty-five feet wide, 
 with a lofty roof of timber frame-work, built by Thomas 
 Randolph, Earl of Moray, regent of Scotland during the 
 minority of David Bruce, and in which are still pre- 
 served his hospitable table and chair of old carved oak. 
 In this splendid hall the then earl gave a sumptuous 
 entertainment to his tenantry in 1S39. Brodie House is 
 an ancient castellated mansion, to which extensive ad- 
 ditions in a corresponding style of architecture have 
 been made by the present proprietor, and is situated in 
 grounds that have been tastefully embellished ; the ceil- 
 ing of the drawing-room is laid out in compartments 
 ornamented with grotesque figures of stucco in high 
 relief, and in the various rooms is a valuable collection 
 of paintings. Dalvey House, situated on a knoll over- 
 looking the Muckleburn, and nearly occupying the site 
 of the castle of Dalvey, is a handsome modern mansion ; 
 the gardens are extensive, and kept in fine order. The 
 houses of Moy and Kincorth are also good residences. 
 
 The village of Dyke is beautifully situated in a se- 
 cluded spot embosomed in trees. Facility of communi- 
 cation is afforded by the great post-road from Aberdeen 
 to Inverness, which passes through the parish, and by 
 other good roads that intersect it in all directions ; by 
 bridges over the several burns, and by an elegant sus- 
 pension-bridge over the Findhorn, which connects the 
 parish with Forres, the nearest post-town. Ecclesi- 
 astically the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery 
 of Forres, synod of Moray. The minister's stipend is 
 £244. 11., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £16. 13.; 
 patrons, the Crown, and James M. Grant, Esq., of Moy. 
 The church, conveniently situated in the village, is a 
 neat structure erected in 1781, in good repair, and con- 
 taining 900 sittings. The members of the Free Church 
 have a place of worship. The parochial school is well 
 attended ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house 
 and garden, and the fees average £30 per annum, besides 
 which he receives £44 from the Dick bequest. There is 
 also a female school in the village, under a teacher who 
 has a house and garden, with a small endowment in 
 money. In the park of Brodie House is a stone on one 
 side of which is sculptured a cross, and on the other 
 several fabulous animals ; it was discovered in digging 
 the foundation for the church, and was erected in the 
 village in commemoration of Rodney's victory, and 
 thence called Rodney's Cross, but was removed to its 
 present situation within the last few years. In sinking 
 the same foundations, a labourer, who contrived to keep 
 the discovery a secret from his companions, found in an 
 earthen pot a large number of silver coins of the reign of 
 William the Lion of Scotland, many of which had been 
 struck at Stirling, and some of Henry II. of England, 
 all which he sold by weight for £46. About the year 
 1822 there was dug out of a steep bank on the Findhorn 
 a large stone coffin containing a human skeleton. Among 
 the eminent persons connected with the parish may be 
 mentioned James Stewart, known as the Good Regent, 
 who was Earl of Moray in the reign of his sister, the 
 unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots. Alexander Brodie 
 of Brodie, who lived in the time of Cromwell, was twice 
 chosen a lord of session. 
 360 
 
 h Seal. 
 
 DYSART, a burgh, sea- 
 port town, and parish, in 
 the district of Kirkcaldy, 
 county of Fife ; including 
 the villages of Boreland and 
 Gallatown, the former quoad 
 sacra parish of Pathhead, 
 and part of that of Thorn- 
 ton ; and containing 7591 
 inhabitants, of whom 1885 
 are in the town, 2 miles (E.) 
 from Kirkcaldy, and 14 (N. 
 by E.) from Edinburgh. This 
 place appears to have retained its original Gaelic name, 
 signifying the " Temple of the Most High", from its rise 
 to the present time. The earliest event upon record 
 connected with it is the invasion of Fife by the Danes, 
 towards the close of the ninth century, when, bringing 
 their fleet to anchor in the Firth of Forth, they landed 
 on the coast of this parish, and marching into the interior, 
 were oppo.-ed by the natives, who, assembling to obstruct 
 their progress, gave them battle in a field about a mile 
 northward of the town. To commemorate this occur- 
 rence, a large stone was erected in the centre of the field 
 of battle, which still points out the spot. Few particu- 
 lars of historical importance have been preserved to 
 throw any light upon the origin and progress of the 
 town ; the records of the burgh, and other ancient 
 documents in the possession of the Sinclair family, were 
 burnt in 1715, when the mansion of Lord Sinclair was 
 destroyed by an accidental fire. The castle of Ravens- 
 craig, a little to the west of the town, was granted with 
 the adjoining lands by James III. to William Sinclair or 
 St. Clair, Earl of Orkney, on his resignation of that title, 
 and has ever since been in the possession of the family : 
 here Lord Sinclair used to hold his baronial court, and 
 the castle continued to be a residence till the Restora- 
 tion, after which it was suffered to fall into decay, being 
 now a ruin of romantic appearance, seated on a steep 
 rock overlooking the sea. 
 
 The TOWN, which is of great antiquity, and was once 
 the principal trading port on this part of the coast, com- 
 prises three narrow streets diverging from an open area 
 in the centre, where the town-hall stands. It still re- 
 tains much of its original character ; the high street con- 
 sists of substantial houses of antique appearance, and 
 several of them till lately had piazzas in front, under 
 which the merchants and dealers formerly sold their 
 wares. Extensive salt-works appear to have been es- 
 tablished here at a very early period, from which, about 
 the middle of the fifteenth century, not only the chief 
 towns in Scotland were supplied, but also great quantities 
 were exported to Holland. From that period the trade 
 of the town continued to flourish for two or three centu- 
 ries. Malting and brewing were carried on to a con- 
 siderable extent ; large quantities of merchandise of every 
 description were regularly exposed for sale, and the high 
 street and the square were thronged with merchants. 
 Its port was crowded with shipping, and its foreign and 
 domestic commerce advanced beyond that of any other 
 town in this part. This state of prosperity lasted till the 
 Union, after which it began to decline ; its port was 
 almost deserted, its trade with foreign coasts nearly 
 annihilated, and its manufactures greatly diminished. 
 From this depression, however, it in some degree reco-
 
 D YS A 
 
 D YS A 
 
 vered, though it has not yet regained its former import- 
 ance. A manufactory of nails was established in the 
 town, in which, till within the last fifty years, about 100 
 persons were constantly employed, and the quantity of 
 nails annually made was valued at £2000 : many of them, 
 used in ship-building, were sent to Edinburgh, Glasgow, 
 and the principal towns in the north ; but for some years 
 this branch of trade has been declining, and it is at 
 present only carried on to a very limited extent. The 
 manufacture of linen-cloth has also greatly diminished ; 
 but one branch of it still continues to flourish. The 
 chief trade now pursued is the manufacture of checks 
 and ticking, which was established about a century since, 
 and has been uniformly increasing : 2000 looms are con- 
 stantly in use ; the number of yards annually pro- 
 duced is more than 31,000,000, and the value above 
 £150,000. This trade affords employment to about 
 5000 persons ; the articles are sent to London, Man- 
 chester, Liverpool, Nottingham, Leeds, and other places, 
 and likewise to the Cape of Good Hope and the East and 
 West Indies. A mill for spinning flax was erected some 
 years since, in which about 100 persons are engaged; 
 and there is a pottery of stone-ware, affording employ- 
 ment to a nearly equal number; also a small rope-walk.. 
 Great facilities of intercourse are afforded by the Edin- 
 burgh, Perth, and Dundee railway, which has a station 
 here. 
 
 The business of the port consists chiefly in the ex- 
 portation of coal and ironstone from the pits in the pa- 
 rish, and in the importation of flax and other goods from 
 Holland and the Baltic. There are eight vessels of the 
 aggregate burthen of 638 tons belonging to the port ; 
 and the number of vessels that entered during a recent 
 year, to deliver or receive cargoes, was eighty-seven, of 
 the aggregate burthen of 5296 tons. Formerly the har- 
 bour, from the ill construction of the eastern pier, was 
 exceedingly dangerous, and the swell so great as to sub- 
 ject the vessels sheltering in it to occasional damage. It 
 was proposed to take down that pier, and to rebuild it 
 in a new direction, which, according to the opinion of 
 several engineers, would not only have remedied the evil, 
 but have rendered this one of the most commodious har- 
 bours on the coast ; but as the expense of the improve- 
 ment would have been beyond the means possessed by the 
 town, it was resolved merely to convert a quarry adjoining 
 it into a wet-dock, which has been carried into effect, 
 and has answered the purpose admirably. The depth of 
 water in the new dock, which adjoins the western pier, 
 is eighteen feet at spring-tides ; and it is capacious enough 
 to hold seventeen or eighteen vessels of moderate ton- 
 nage, which may ride in perfect safety, in addition to 
 what the harbour would formerly accommodate. A pa- 
 tent-slip has likewise been constructed, at a considerable 
 expense, for repairing ships ; and ship-building, particu- 
 larly the repairing of vessels, is carried on upon a large 
 scale. A sailing-packet leaves the port every day for 
 Leith, and another for Dundee occasionally. Fairs are 
 held six times in the year, for the sale of wool, white 
 cloth, linseed, and black-cattle ; they were formerly at- 
 tended by numerous merchants from Glasgow, Edin- 
 burgh, and Stirling, but have of late altogether declined. 
 Two subscription libraries have been established ; and 
 there are also a mechanics' library, a library exclusively 
 of religious publications, and two public reading-rooms, 
 which are well attended. 
 Vol. I.— 361 
 
 The town was made a burgh of barony by Lord Sin- 
 clair, and there is still extant the copy of a summons 
 issued from Ravenscraig Castle to the bailies, and com- 
 manding their appearance at his baronial court. It was 
 afterwards erected into a royal burgh by charter of 
 Charles II., and the government was vested in two 
 bailies, a treasurer, and a council of twenty-one bur- 
 gesses ; but in consequence of an error in the election of 
 the council in 1 831, the burgh was disfranchised by judg- 
 ment of the court of session, who appointed three mana- 
 gers to take charge of its affairs, by whom, from the 
 impossibility of electing a council subsequently, the con- 
 cerns of the town are still administered. The jurisdiction 
 of the magistrates extends to the bounds of the royalty. 
 The treasurer, the town-clerk, who acts also as assessor, 
 and the other officers are at present appointed by the 
 managers ; the bailies act as justices of the peace for the 
 royalty, and hold a court for the determination of civil 
 actions, but in 1831 only four civil cases were brought 
 before it for decision, and there is no record of any 
 criminal cases whatever. Burgesses and freemen re- 
 siding within the burgh are exempt from one-third of the 
 dues paid by strangers on the landing of goods at the 
 quay. Dysart, by the act of the 2nd and 3rd of Wil- 
 liam IV., unites with Kirkcaldy, Kinghorn, and Burnt- 
 island, in returning a member to the imperial parliament ; 
 the right of election being vested in the resident house- 
 holders of the annual value of £10 and upwards, the 
 number of whom within the limits of the municipal 
 burgh is thirty-two. The number of £10 householders 
 resident without the municipal, but within the parliamen- 
 tary limits, is 124 ; and the whole number of voters at 
 a late general election was 106. The town-hall is a 
 plain substantial building of stone, with a tower sur- 
 mounted by a spire ; it was originally erected in 1617, 
 and contains a spacious hall for the transaction of mu- 
 nicipal affairs, a guard-house, weigh-house, and prison. 
 During the civil war in the reign of Charles I. the for- 
 mer building was converted into a barrack by Crom- 
 well's soldiers, one of whom entering the magazine with 
 a lighted match, the powder exploded, and reduced the 
 whole building to ruins, in which state it remained for 
 some years, till it was rebuilt. 
 
 The PARISH is situated on the Firth of Forth, is about ■^ 
 four miles in length and three in breadth, and comprises 
 an area of 3850 acres, of which about 500 are natural 
 wood and plantations, and the remainder arable laud in 
 good cultivation. Its coast, which extends for about two 
 miles, is abrupt and rugged, and marked in several parts 
 with rocks of considerable elevation. The surface rises 
 gradually towards the north, and in the more level tracts 
 is enlivened by two small rivers, the Oar and the Lochty, 
 the former of which has its source in the parish of Dun- 
 fermline, and receiving in its course two streams issuing 
 respectively from the lochs of Fittie and Gellie, flows iii 
 an eastern direction into the river Leven in the parish of 
 Markinch. The Lochty rises in the parish of Kinglassie, 
 and falls into the Oar at a short distance from the influx 
 of that stream into the Leven. In general the soil is 
 fertile, and the substratum abounds in mineral wealth ; 
 the most improved system of husbandry is adopted, and 
 much waste land has been reclaimed, and brought into 
 cultivation. The crops are wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, 
 and turnips, of which large quantities are raised for the 
 supply of the neighbouring markets. Great attention is 
 
 3 A
 
 D YS A 
 
 E A G L 
 
 paid to live stock ; the cattle are generally of the Fife- 
 shire, Ayrshire, and Teeswater breeds, and the rearing of 
 horses is an object of particular solicitude : there are very 
 few sheep. The plantations, of which more than 3S0 
 acres are on the property of the Earl of Rosslyn, are 
 chiefly fir, oak, and elm, which are well managed and 
 very thriving. The lands are inclosed, and the fences 
 kept in good order ; the farm-buildings and offices, also, 
 are very superior. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £10,775. 
 
 The SUBSTRATA are, limestone, which is extensively 
 quarried for agricultural and other purposes ; sandstone, 
 which, though inferior in appearance, is notwithstanding 
 of good quality ; claystone, worked on a large scale for 
 pavements, hearths, and other uses ; coal, of which there 
 are not less than fourteen beds on the estate of the Earl 
 of Rosslyn ; and ironstone, which is found below the 
 coal,of excellentquality,producingabout twelve hundred- 
 weight of iron from every ton. Most of the beds of coal 
 are thin ; but three of them, lying one above another, 
 are now being worked, of which the uppermost is five, 
 the next eight, and the lowest five feet in thickness. The 
 pits are sunk to a depth of seventy fathoms, and produce 
 an abundant supply : the coal is slow in burning, but 
 throws out an intense heat ; it was among the first 
 wrought in Scotland, and there are the remains of some 
 exhausted mines that are supposed to have been in ope- 
 ration more than three centuries since. Five beds of 
 ironstone are worked a little westward of the coal-mines, 
 where it lies nearer to the surface ; it is wrought on an 
 extensive scale, and the produce is shipped to Carron, for 
 the supply of the foundries of that place. The landed 
 proprietors of the parish, by the encouragement they 
 have given to improvements of every kind, have contri- 
 buted greatly to its prosperity. Lord Rosslyn occasion- 
 ally resides here, in a mansion situated not far distant 
 from the town, commanding an extensive view of the Firth 
 and the richly-varied scenery of the adjacent country. 
 The house is spacious, and of handsome appearance ; the 
 grounds also are extensive, and finely planted with orna- 
 mental timber and forest trees, many of which are of 
 stately growth. 
 
 Dysart is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Kirk- 
 caldy and synod of Fife ; patron, the Earl of Rosslyn. 
 The church is collegiate, there being two incumbents : 
 the stipend of the first minister is £265. 10., with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at f^l. 8. per annum; the 
 stipend of the second is £'207. 1 1., without either manse 
 or glebe. The church, erected in 1802, is a neat and 
 substantial edifice, situated at one extremity of the town, 
 and adapted for a congregation of 16(J0 persons. A 
 church was erected by subscription in the village of 
 Pathhead within the last twenty or thirty years, at an 
 expense of £3000 ; and the parish has for ecclesiastical 
 purposes been divided by the presbytery, and one division 
 allotted to each of the parochial ministers. There are 
 places of worship for members of the Free Church, the 
 United Presbyterian Synod, and Antiburghers. The 
 Burgh school, which is also the parochial school, affords 
 a liberal course of instruction, but from its situation is 
 accessible only to residents in the town ; the master is 
 elected by the town-council, and has a salary of £43 per 
 annum, arising partly from the funds of the burgh, and 
 partly from the interest of money bequeathed for that 
 purpose, with £50 school-fees, and an allowance in lieu 
 362 
 
 of a house and garden. In addition to this school is a 
 subscription school, erected within the last few years, 
 and which forms a great ornament to the town from the 
 elegance of its architectural design. There is an endowed 
 school at Pathhead, the master of which has a good 
 salary for teaching 150 children reading, writing, and 
 arithmetic ; also a school in Boreland, the master of 
 which has £8 per annum, with a school-room and dwell- 
 ing-house rent free, and a supply of coal. Several reli- 
 gious societies are established, among which are, a Bible 
 and missionary association which gives part of its income 
 to the Gaelic and Hibernian Societies; a Sabbath-even- 
 ing school society ; and a society for the education of 
 children, which pays one-half of the school fees for the 
 children of such parents as are willing to pay the other 
 half. There is also a society for the support of indigent 
 and aged females, which appropriates about £40 annually 
 to that purpose. Three friendly societies, belonging re- 
 spectively to maltmen, bakers, and sailors, have been 
 established in the town more than two centuries ; and 
 their funds, which are ample, are exclusively appropriated 
 to the relief of poor members. 
 
 In the south part of the town are the remains of a 
 chapel dedicated to St. Dennis ; parts of the ancient 
 walls are standing, but the building itself has been con- 
 verted into a forge. Near the site of this chapel are the 
 remains of the old church, which appears to have been a 
 venerable structure, the porch and tower bearing evidence 
 of great antiquity ; the former has a groined roof of 
 stone, and above the door are two sculptured stones, one 
 of which seems to have been a pedestal for a statue, pro- 
 bably of the tutelar saint. Nearly in the centre of the 
 harbour is a high rock called the Fort, supposed to have 
 been fortified by the troops of Cromwell during the par- 
 liamentary war ; but no traces of any military works are 
 visible. On the lands of Carherry farm the Romans are 
 said to have had a camp, though no vestiges are at pre- 
 sent discernible ; and about a mile west of the town are 
 the Red rocks, concerning which many traditionary sto- 
 ries are current. Robert Beatson, who obtained an 
 ensigncy in 1756, and was present at the taking of Mar- 
 tinique and Guadaloupe, was born in this parish ; he was 
 distinguished as the author of a Political Index to the 
 History of Great Britain and Ireland, a Chronological 
 Register of both Houses of Parliament, and other works. 
 Dysart gives the title of Earl to the family of Tollemache ; 
 the first earl was son of the Rev. William Murray, in- 
 cumbent of the parish, and acted a conspicuous part in 
 the reign of Charles I. 
 
 E 
 
 EAGLESFIELD, a village, in the parish of Mid- 
 DLEBiE, county of Dumfries : containing 456 inhabit- 
 ants. This is the principal of three flourishing villages 
 in the parish, erected within the last twenty or thirty 
 years, and the inhabitants of which are to a considerable 
 extent engaged in weaving. — See Kirtle. 
 
 EAGLESHAM, a parish, in the county of Ren- 
 frew, 9 miles (S.) from Glasgow ; containing 2428 in- 
 habitants, of whom ISOl are in the village. This place, 
 which is of considerable antiquity, is supposed to have 
 
 t 
 
 t
 
 E AG L 
 
 E AGL 
 
 derived its name, of Celtic origin, from the erection of 
 its ancient church. It formed part of the district of 
 Mearns, and, together with other lands, was granted by 
 David I., King of Scotland, to Walter, son of Alan, the 
 first of the Stuarts, from whom Robert de Montgomerie, 
 of Oswestry in England, procured the manor of Eagles- 
 ham about the middle of the twelfth century. After the 
 accession of the Stuarts to the Scottish throne, it was 
 held by Robert's descendants, John de Montgomerie, 
 who also obtained the baronies of Eglinton and Ardros- 
 san, by marriage with Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Hugh 
 Eglinton by Egidia, sister of Robert II. ; and this John 
 de Montgomerie, with the ransom of Harry Percy, sur- 
 named Hotspur, whom he had taken prisoner at the 
 battle of Otterburn in 1388, erected here the castle of 
 Polnoon, of which there are still some vestiges remaining. 
 The parish was almost exclusively the property of the 
 Montgomerie family, and is now in the possession of 
 Allan and James Gilmour, Esqrs. It is situated in the 
 south-east angle of the county, and measures about six 
 miles from north to south, and five and a half from east 
 to west. Eaglesham is bounded on the north by the 
 river Earn, which separates it from the parish of Mearns ; 
 on the south by the parish of Loudon ; on the east by 
 the river White Cart, which divides it from the parishes 
 of East Kilbride and Carmunnock ; and on the west by 
 the parish of Fenwick. Its surface is generally elevated, 
 and is intersected from east to west by a ridge of hills, 
 the highest of which vary from 1000 to 1200 feet above 
 the level of the sea, and, with the exception of one or 
 two hills in Lochwinnoch, are the loftiest in the county. 
 The sources of the river Cart and its numerous tributa- 
 ries are within the parish : this river, which flows in a 
 northern course to Cathcart and Langside, then takes a 
 western direction towards Paisley, whence it deviates 
 towards the north, and receives the waters of the Black 
 Cart at Inchinnan Bridge previously to its influx into 
 the Clyde. The surface is also diversified with lakes, 
 and certain reservoirs for the supply of different mills 
 cover nearly 240 acres of ground, and are frequented by 
 various species of aquatic fowl. 
 
 The whole number of acres is estimated at 15,500, of 
 which about 6100 are arable, nearly 4000 meadow and 
 pasture, about sixty woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder moorland, pasture, and moss. On the banks 
 of the Cart, and towards the west, the soil, though light, 
 is very fertile, and produces excellent crops of oats, bar- 
 ley, and potatoes ; but the inhabitants of the high lands 
 rely more on the pasturage of sheep and the rearing of 
 cattle than on the cultivation of the ground. The system 
 of agriculture has been greatly improved ; much progress 
 has been made in draining, and considerable quantities 
 of waste land have been reclaimed. Many of the farm- 
 houses and offices have been rebuilt on a more commo- 
 dious plan, and all the recent improvements in husbandry 
 have been adopted ; the dairy-farms are in general well 
 managed, and the produce finds a ready sale in the mar- 
 ket of Glasgow. The cattle are chiefly of the Ayrshire 
 breed, of which about 1000 cows are pastured on the 
 farms ; and about 5000 sheep are maintained on the 
 moorland pastures : few horses are reared, the greater 
 number being purchased in the spring for agricultural 
 purposes, and sold again in autumn. The annual va- 
 lue of real property in the parish is £11,800. The 
 moors abound with grouse and other species of game, 
 363 
 
 and afford a fine field of " sport " to the members of the 
 Clydesdale Coursing Club, the hares being numerous and 
 swift, and requiring greater energy and perseverance in 
 the chase than those in the more lowland countries. 
 Trout and various other kinds of fish abound in the lakes, 
 and a peculiar species found in the Clyde and the Avon 
 was originally introduced by Lady Anne Hamilton from 
 this vicinity. In this parish the plantations are chiefly 
 the common Scotch fir, which thrives admirably, and 
 larch, for which the soil is better adapted than for many 
 other sorts ; hard- woods of different kinds are to be seen 
 in the lower grounds and more sheltered situations. The 
 rocks in the higher lands are generally of the trap species, 
 intermixed in some places with porphyritic claystone, and 
 abounding in others with jasper, chalcedony, blue quartz, 
 calcareous spar, and felspar containing crystals. 
 
 Alexander, the eighth Earl of Eglinton, obtained for 
 the inhabitants a charter for a weekly market and an 
 annual fair, in 1672 ; both these have been discontinued, 
 but there is still a fair held on the last Thursday in 
 August, when horse-races take place. The village, which 
 was laid out on a new plan by the tenth earl, is about 
 one-third of a mile in length, and consists of two ranges 
 of houses, between which is a spacious green, varying 
 from 100 to 250 yards in breadth, disposed in lawns, 
 interspersed with trees, and divided in the centre by a 
 streamlet of clear water. Behind each of the houses is 
 a rood of garden ; and the inhabitants have also seventy 
 acres of ground rent free, which are laid out in meadows 
 and plantations. The village is lighted with gas. The 
 manufacture of silk was formerly considerable, employ- 
 ing sixty-three looms in the village ; but that branch of 
 trade has been superseded by cotton-weaving, for which 
 materials are provided by the manufacturers of Glasgow 
 and Paisley, who thus afford employment to nearly 400 
 persons, resident in the village. At the higher extremity 
 of the rivulet that flows through the green is an extensive 
 cotton-mill, the property of Messrs. Mc Lean and Brodie, 
 of Glasgow, in which are 15,312 spindles, set in motion 
 by a water-wheel of cast-iron, forty-five feet in diameter, 
 and equivalent to the power of fifty horses. It gives oc- 
 cupation to 200 persons, of whom more than one-half 
 are females. There is also a mill at Mill-hall, employing 
 620 spindles, and nearly seventy persons, of whom about 
 one-third are females ; this establishment is chiefly en- 
 gaged in spinning shuttle-cord for power-looms, and 
 wicks for candles, and the machinery is impelled by a 
 water-wheel of twenty-four horse power. In the parish 
 is likewise acorn-mill in which about 3000 bolls of grain 
 are ground annually. A bank is established, and there 
 is a post-office with a good delivery. Facility of inter- 
 course with Glasgow, Paisley, Hamilton, and other towns 
 is maintained by excellent roads, of which seven miles 
 of turnpike pass through the parish. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of Glf'!^gow, 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr : the minister's stipi'nd is 
 £278. 14., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £25 per 
 annum ; patron, Allan Gilmour, Esq., of Eaglesham. 
 The church, erected in 1788, is a neat structure of octa- 
 gonal form, containing 550 sittings. There are places 
 of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod and Re- 
 formed Presbyterians. The parochial school is attended 
 by about 120 scholars ; the master has a salary of £30, 
 with a house and garden, and the fees average £50 per 
 annum. There is another school, in which sixty children 
 
 3 A2
 
 EARL 
 
 EARL 
 
 are taught. Robert Pollok, author of the Course of Time, 
 and equally remarkable for depth of piety and the beauty 
 of his poetry, was a native of the parish. 
 
 EAGLESHAY, an isle, included in the parish of Rou- 
 SAY and Eagleshay, county of Orkney ; containing 190 
 inhabitants. It lies on the east side of the island of 
 Ronsay, from which it is separated by Howa Sound, and 
 is about two miles and a half long and one mile broad, 
 and entirely composed of sandstone and sandstone flag : 
 in some parts the strata are very much elevated. The 
 soil is good, but is indifferently cultivated. This island, 
 from its beauty, has been chosen as a place of residence 
 by several distinguished persons : the families of Douglas 
 and Monteith, its former proprietors, resided here, and 
 even the bishops preferred it for their habitation. St. 
 Magnus was murdered on the isle, and the church here, 
 dedicated to him as the tutelar saint of the Orkneys, is 
 said to have been erected on the very spot where the 
 deed was perpetrated by his ambitious relative. In the 
 month of October, the spongia palmata and oculata are 
 cast on the shore in great abundance ; and a consider- 
 able quantity of kelp is produced annually. 
 
 EAGLESHAY, an isle, in the parish of Northma- 
 viNE, county of Shetland. It is one of the smallest 
 of the Shetland group, and is situated in St. Magnus' 
 bay, a short distance westward of Islesburgh on the 
 Mainland: there is some good pasturage ; and rabbits 
 are very numerous. 
 
 EALAN-NA-C00:MB, an isle, in the parish of 
 Tongue, county of Sutherland. This isle, also called 
 Ealan na Naoiniph, or " Island of Saints ", lies off the 
 northern coast of Sutherland, and a little eastward of 
 the mouth of the Kyle of Tongue ; it is of very small 
 extent, and of nearly circular form. Here were formerly 
 a chapel and burying-place, the remains of which are 
 still visible. — See Tongue. 
 
 EALAN-NA-ROAN, an isle, in the parish of Tongue, 
 county of Sutherland ; containing 4*2 inhabitants. 
 This place, the name of which signifies the " Island of 
 Seals", is situated at the entrance to the Kyle of Tongue. 
 It is about two miles in circumference, and is formed of 
 a mi.xture of sand and a reddish kind of pebble, which 
 appear as if baked together. The isle contains a large 
 quantity of peat-moss, and has plenty of fresh water. 
 Some years since, part of the land near the middle sank 
 without any visible cause, occasioning a vast chasm. — 
 See Tongue. 
 
 EARLSFERRY, a burgh 
 •'''^IDSa of regality, in the parish of 
 -.-^-^^ '.^ KiLCONQUHAR, district of 
 '^&^\^Cl St. Andrew's, and county of 
 '^^f ^^^^' 2 a ™'le (W.) from 
 ^|n| j^ Elie, and 2 miles (S.) from 
 ""'^ Colinsburgh ; containing 496 
 
 inhabitants. This place, 
 which is of great antiquity, 
 and was originally an incon- 
 siderable fishing-village, de- 
 rived its name, and, accord- 
 ing to some, its erection into 
 a royal burgh, from Macduff, Thane or Earl of Fife, 
 who, fleeing from the usurper Macbeth, took shelter in 
 a small recess in Kincraig hill, a precipitous rock rising 
 abruptly from the south-western coast of the parish. 
 After remaining some time in concealment, Macduff was 
 J64 
 
 Bursh Seal. 
 
 conveyed across the Firth of Forth, to Dunbar, by the 
 fishermen of the village ; and in return for the kindness 
 he had experienced, he is said to have obtained from 
 Malcolm III. a charter of incorporation for the inhabit- 
 ants, erecting the village into a royal burgh, to which, in 
 memory of his escape, he gave the appellation of Earl's 
 Ferry. Among the privileges conferred was that of 
 sanctuary to all who should sail hence across the Firth ; 
 it was ordained that their persons should be inviolable 
 while here, and that, after their embarkation, no boat 
 should be allowed to go in pursuit of them till they were 
 half way across. After it became a burgh, the place 
 appears to have carried on a large trade ; two weekly 
 markets and two annual fairs were held, and the provost 
 and bailies levied dues and customs. But the want of 
 a convenient harbour prevented its attaining much con- 
 sideration as a port : its trade, which had for many 
 years been declining, was, from the construction of a 
 harbour and the erection of a pier at Elie, in its imme- 
 diate neighbourhood, at length wholly transferred to 
 that place ; and both its fairs and markets were conse- 
 quently discontinued. The inhabitants are chiefly em- 
 ployed in the coal-works in the vicinity of the town, and 
 in weaving for the manufacturers of Dundee, Kirkcaldy, 
 and other places ; the articles woven are sheetings, 
 dowlas, and checks, which are wrought in hand-looms 
 by the people at their own dwellings. There are about 
 seventy seamen engaged in the harbour and at the ferry ; 
 and during the months of July and August, a few of 
 them are employed in the herring-fishery on the north- 
 east coast. Many of the weavers who have been brought 
 up as seamen occupy themselves in summer in the 
 whale-fisheries on the coast of Greenland, from which 
 pursuit they return to their looms in the winter. 
 
 The original charter of Malcolm, bestowed in the 
 eleventh century, was destroyed by fire ; and a new 
 charter, confirming all the privileges it had conferred, 
 was in 1589 granted by James VI., by which the govern- 
 ment is vested in three bailies, a treasurer, and a council 
 of sixteen burgesses, assisted by a town-clerk and other 
 officers. The bailies and treasurer are elected annually 
 by the council for the time being, and on their appoint- 
 ment nominate the council for the following year ; the 
 chief magistrate is e.r officio a justice of the peace. There 
 is power to hold courts for the determination of civil and 
 criminal causes ; but since IS'20, only five civil cases 
 and one criminal case have been decided. At one pe- 
 riod the burgh enjoyed the privilegeof sending a member 
 to the Scottish parliament ; but it was relieved on its 
 own petition, some time prior to the Union in 1707- 
 The prison is in a state of dilapidation : it was latterly 
 seldom used, and only for the temporary confinement of 
 persons found guilty of misdemeanors ; and after the 
 passing of the Prisons' act for Scotland about ten years 
 ago, it was abolished as a place of confinement. 
 
 EARLSTOUN, a parish, in the county of Berwick ; 
 including the villages of Fans, Mellerstain, and Redpath, 
 and containing 1756 inhabitants, of whom 9-7 are in 
 the village of Earlstoun, 4 miles (N. by E.) from Melrose. 
 The name of this parish, anciently Ersihlun or Ersildon, 
 which appears to have been gradually changed into Earls- 
 ioitn, is traced by some antiquaries to the Cambo-British 
 word Arcicl-dun, signifying " the prospect hill ", from a 
 commanding eminence on the south of the village and 
 church. It is, however, perhaps more correctly derived
 
 EARL 
 
 EARL 
 
 from the name Earl, with the common termination of 
 dun, ton, or town ; on account of its having belonged to 
 the Earls of March, who were seated here from the 
 twelfth century till 1453, when they incurred a forfeiture. 
 David 1. occasionally resided in this part, and James IV., 
 in the year 1506, granted the barony to Mungo Home, 
 whose family had previously established their residence 
 at Cowdenknows, on the Leader, about three-quarters of 
 a mile below the village of Earlstoun. This village, on 
 the 1st of February, 1590-1, was made a burgh of barony 
 by James VI., in favour of John Home of Cowdenknows, 
 the great grandson of Mungo ; and the grant was con- 
 firmed in 1592. In 1636, Sir James Home, the lineal 
 descendant of this family, succeeded to the earldom of 
 Home, Earl James having died without issue. The 
 PARISH lies in the south-western extremity of the county, 
 and is about six miles in length from east to west, and 
 about four and a half in breadth. It is bounded on the 
 north by the parishes of Gordon and Legerwood, on the 
 south by Mertoun, on the east by Smailholm in Rox- 
 burghshire, and Nenthorn, and on the west by Melrose 
 in Roxburghshire. The surface iu the vicinity of most 
 of the streams is tolerably even, but in the western 
 quarter it is more hilly, though there is no remarkable 
 eminence, except in one place, about a mile south of the 
 village, where the ground attains an elevation of 1000 
 feet above the level of the sea. There are two consider- 
 able rivers, the Eden on the east, and the Leader on the 
 west, both of which rise in Lammermoor, and flow into 
 the Tweed, and are celebrated for their fine trout. The 
 scenery of the latter is in some parts extremely beautiful ; 
 and its windings between the hills of Carolside, and 
 through the classic grounds of Cowdenknows, have been 
 the inspiring theme of Scottish song. 
 
 The SOIL is of different varieties; that of the arable 
 land is generally dry, and in some parts a rich fertile 
 loam. In the eastern quarter is a considerable extent 
 of marshy ground ; barren heath is to be met with in 
 many places, and in the northern district there is a moss 
 consisting of several hundreds of acres. About 5600 
 acres are cultivated or occasionally in tillage, and 2118 
 are waste or in pasture ; the wood covers 915 acres, and 
 on the Mellerstain estate, where timber is regularly cut 
 for sale, a large extent of waste land has been planted 
 with Scotch fir. Grain of all kinds is raised, but the 
 quantity, especially of wheat, has been small, the soil 
 being chiefly suited to turnips, large crops of which are 
 produced. The five years' rotation system is usually 
 followed, consisting of two years' grass ; of oats ; turnips ; 
 and, lastly, oats or barley, with grass seeds. The sheep 
 mostly bred are the Leicesters, and the cattle are the 
 short-horned, to the rearing of which much attention 
 is paid. Many improvements have been effected in the 
 culture of the lands ; and although great losses have 
 been sustained in some cases by the reclaiming of 
 waste, yet considerable progress has been made in this 
 respect, and the extensive tract of moss before named, 
 having been redeemed at an expense of from £1200 to 
 £1400, now affords tolerable pasture for cattle. On 
 the estate of Cowdenknows much benefit has been de- 
 rived from laying out plantations, which greatly orna- 
 ment the vicinity of the Leader as well as the village 
 of Earlstoun. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £8533. At Mellerstain, the seat of the ancient 
 family of Baillie, is a large and elegant mansion, built by 
 365 
 
 the grandfather of the present owner, George Baillie, 
 Esq. ; it is embosomed iu a forest of noble trees, which 
 cover and adorn a wide extent of country. Cowden- 
 knows, now the property of James Gilfillan, Esq., stands 
 on the Leader, amid scenery which has for hundreds of 
 years been celebrated for its beauty ; and Carolside, be- 
 longing to Alexander Mitchel, Esq., is also seated on the 
 banks of the river, in a delightfully secluded vale sur- 
 rounded by hills, and is remarkable for the variety of 
 the attractions in its vicinity. 
 
 The village of Earlstoun is situated on the Leader, 
 near the new line of road from Jedburgh to Edinburgh ; 
 and the road from Kelso passes through it. There are 
 two manufactures carried on in the parish ; one being a 
 manufacture of ginghams, merinos, shawls, muslins, 
 shirtings, and furniture stripes ; and the other of plaid- 
 ings, blankets, flannels, and other woollens : in the 
 former about eighty persons are employed, and in the 
 latter the number of hands is about forty. Two fairs of 
 considerable importance are held yearly at Earlstoun, 
 principally for horses and cattle, one on the 29th of 
 June, the other on the third Thursday in October. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Lauder, synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; 
 patron, the Crown. The stipend of the minister is £218, 
 and there is a manse, erected in 1814, and repaired in 
 1 824, with a glebe valued at £37 per annum. Earlstoun 
 church, built in 1736, and enlarged and thoroughly re- 
 paired in 1832, is situated in the village, nearly at one 
 extremity of the parish ; it formerly accommodated only 
 450 persons, but on account of its recent enlargement is 
 now capable of holding nearly 200 more. The members 
 of the Free Church have a place of worship, and there 
 are also meeting-houses for the United Presbyterian 
 Synod and Antiburghers. The parochial school affords 
 instruction in the classics, French, mathematics, and all 
 the usual branches of education ; the salary of the 
 master is £28, with £32 from fees, and the interest of 
 £550 bequeathed partly by the Rev. Robert Young, and 
 partly by the late Dr. James Wilson, who was educated 
 in the school, and long resident in India. A school at 
 Mellerstain is partly supported by the Baillie family of 
 that place ; and at Fans and Redpath are held other 
 schools. 
 
 At Cowdenknows is an ancient tower in a state of 
 good preservation, bearing on its walls the date 1573. 
 But the chief relic of antiquity is part of a tower stand- 
 ing at the west end of the village, called Rhymer's 
 Tower, the ancient residence of Sir Thomas Learmont, or 
 Thomas of Ercildoune, commonly called Thomas the 
 Rhymer, the earliest, and in some respects the most re- 
 markable, poet of Scotland. His predictions respecting 
 many families of importance, and with regard to the ruin 
 of his own family, and the union of the British domi- 
 nions under one monarch, are all particularly noticed by 
 Sir Walter Scott in the Minstrehij of the. Scottish Border. 
 He lived about the end of the thirteenth century, and 
 held a considerable portion of the lands in the parish. 
 On the summit of Blackhill is a vitrified fort, and in 
 various parts of the parish are circular encampments of 
 the primitive inhabitants. Near the western extremity 
 of the village there existed some years ago an ancient 
 thorn-tree, to which the older people attached the magic 
 power of sustaining the fortunes of the place, so long as 
 it remained untouched.
 
 E A SD 
 
 E A SS 
 
 EARN, BRIDGE OF, a village, in the parish of 
 DuNBARNY, county of Perth, 3 miles (S. by E.) from 
 Perth ; containing 369 inhabitants. This place, which 
 takes its name from its situation near a bridge across 
 the river Earn, consists of two portions. One of these 
 was commenced about 1769, by Mr. John Gilloch, who 
 had obtained from Sir William Moucrieffe a ninety-nine 
 years' lease of a tract of land between the old bridge 
 of Earn and Scale's bridge. The other was erected in 
 1832, and forms a street of regularly-disposed houses, 
 intended chiefly for the accommodation of persons 
 visiting the celebrated mineral wells of Pitkeithly, at a 
 short distance from this spot, and within the confines 
 of the parish. These waters belong to the saline class, 
 as distinguished from the acidulous, chalybeate, and 
 sulphureous, and contain carbonate of lime, sulphate of 
 soda, chloride of calcium, and chloride of sodium, the 
 two last being the principal ingredients ; there are 
 also portions of carbonic acid and nitrogen. They 
 have long been in repute for their efficacy in hepatic, 
 scrofulous, and many other complaints, and are visited by 
 numerous invalids. The water is used both internally 
 and externally, and both warm and cold. There is an 
 inn near the wells, fitted up for the accommodation of 
 strangers, and at one time forming the mansion-house 
 occupied by the proprieter of Pitkeithly ; but the chief 
 inn is the Moncrieffe Arms, at the village. Apartments 
 of every kind may also be obtained at the several lodging- 
 houses ; and a regular post-office is established here for 
 the surrounding district. One of the most picturesque 
 and interesting objects in the scenery is the new and 
 elegant bridge of three elliptical arches, erected over the 
 river in IS'Sl by the city of Perth, at a cost of £16,000, 
 in place of the old bridge, built about 500 years since, 
 and of which two of the five arches still remain, over- 
 grown with ivy. Moncrieffe hill, to the north of Bridge- 
 of-Earn, commands one of the most magnificent prospects 
 in Britain. The road between Edinburgh and Perth 
 passes through the village, and the Perth line of the 
 Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway company has a 
 station in the vicinity. The parish church and manse 
 are situated here. 
 
 EASDALE, an island of the Hebrides, annexed to 
 the parish of Kilbraxdon, in the district of Lorn, 
 county of Argyll; containing 531 inhabitants. This 
 island is situated a little westward of that of Seil, 
 belonging to the same parish, and from which it is 
 separated by a narrow channel called Easdale Sound ; 
 it is washed by the Atlantic on the south, and the 
 Sound of Mull on the west and north-west, and is less 
 than a square mile in extent. The village of Easdale is 
 built on both sides of the sound, that portion of it situated 
 in Seil being called Eilean-na-beithe, " isle of birch". It 
 is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in the slate- 
 quarries, whose tenements are one story high, with good 
 slate roofs, and of neat and comfortable appearance. 
 Though slate of the same kind is obtained in the islands 
 of Seil and Luing, Easdale is the chief seat of the opera- 
 tions for raising the fine blue durable material for which 
 it has been so long and justly celebrated ; the whole 
 island consists of it, and there is one quarry 120 feet be- 
 low the level of the sea. The quarries have been wrought 
 for nearly two centuries ; the four now open in the is- 
 lands employ about 200 men, and produce from four to 
 five millions of slates annually. Much of the labour 
 366 
 
 formerly done by horses, carts, &c., is now effected by 
 the aid of steam-engines and by tramroads. The steam- 
 ers running between Glasgow and the northern ports 
 pass along the Sound of Easdale, and a post communi- 
 cates daily with Oban. There is a school supported by 
 the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. 
 
 EASSIE and NEVAY, a parish, in the county of 
 Forfar, 3 miles distant (E.) from Meigle ; containing 
 732 inhabitants. These two districts, formerly separate 
 parishes, are together about four miles in length and 
 three in average breadth, comprising an area of 5000 
 acres, of which, with the exception of a small proportion 
 of pasture and woodland, the whole is arable. The sur- 
 face is varied ; in Eassie it is partly level, but the greater 
 portion is included in the Sidlaw hills, whose northern 
 declivity occupies nearly one-half of the parish. The 
 river Dean is the northern boundary of the district of 
 Eassie, where it winds along with a scarcely perceptible 
 current, though, from the great depth of its channel, 
 and the numerous and sudden changes in its course, 
 it frequently overflows its banks, and inundates the 
 adjacent lands. In the lower grounds the soil is a fine 
 black mould, but towards the hills becomes less fertile, 
 and near the summits affords only tolerable pasturage ; 
 in Nevay it is partly marshy, with moss, and in Eassie 
 is a tract of strong rich clay, well adapted for grain. 
 The arable lands are in the highest state of cultivation, 
 producing oats and barley, of which, from the great 
 attention paid to them, considerable quantities are sent 
 to various parts of the country for seed. Much care 
 has been bestowed on the improvement of live stock : 
 the cattle are principally the Angus and the short- 
 horned ; numerous flocks of sheep, chiefly of a mixed 
 breed between the Highland and the Leicestershire, are 
 fed on the pastures, and in autumn many are fed on 
 turnips and fattened for the market. The farms ave- 
 rage about 200 acres in extent, and the farm-buildings 
 are in general substantially built, on the most improved 
 plan, and well arranged. The plantations, which are 
 mostly of recent growth, consist mainly of larch and 
 Scotch fir, and are in a thriving state. The annual value 
 of the real property in the parish is £4019- 
 
 There are several small scattered hamlets, but no regu- 
 lar village ; the population is chiefly agricultural, and a 
 small number of persons are employed in the manufac- 
 ture of coarse linen, chiefly for domestic use. Freestone 
 of good quality is quarried to a considerable extent. The 
 river Dean abounds with trout, and is much frequented 
 by anglers. The high road from Aberdeen to Edinburgh, 
 and the Scottish Midland Junction railway, pass through 
 the parish. Ecclesiastically it is within the bounds of 
 the presbytery of Meigle, synod of Angus and Mearns : 
 the minister's stipend is £l6l, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £15 per annum ; patron. Lord Wharncliffe. 
 The church is a handsome structure, erected in 1833 on 
 a site convenient for both districts. The parochial school 
 is well conducted ; the master has a salary of £34, with 
 a house and garden, and the fees average about £18 per 
 annum. There is a parochial library containing a good 
 collection of works, chiefly on religious subjects. The 
 poor are partly supported by the proceeds of a fund 
 of £120 : a bequest of £100 by Miss Ogilvie, of West 
 Hall, for such as are not on the parish list, has been 
 entirely expended. About a mile from the old church 
 of Eassie is a large circular mound, on which stands the 
 
 f
 
 EAST 
 
 EAST 
 
 farm-house of Castle-Nairn ; part of the broad moat 
 that surrounded it is still remaining. It is supposed to 
 have been an intrenchment occupied by the army of 
 Edward of England during his invasion of the country. 
 There is also a large stone obelisk in the parish, curi- 
 ously sculptured with hieroglyphic characters. 
 
 EAST COALTOWN.— See Coaltown, East.— Jinl 
 all places having a similar distinguishing prefix will be 
 found under the proper name. 
 
 EASTBARNS, a village, in the parish of Dunbar, 
 county of Haddington, 3 miles (S. E. by E.) from the 
 town of Dunbar, on the road to Berwick ; containing 
 125 inhabitants. It is situated near the coast of the 
 German Ocean, in the eastern extremity of the parish, 
 and is distant from Westbarns, a more populous village 
 on the other side of Dunbar, about five miles. There 
 ■was a Burgher meeting-house here till the year 1820, 
 when the congregation removed to the town ; and one 
 of the parochial schools is still fixed at this place. The 
 North-British railway passes by. 
 
 EASTHOUSES, a village, in the parish of New- 
 battle, county of Edinburgh, 1 mile (E.) from New- 
 battle; containing, in 1841, 420 inhabitants. This was 
 a considerable colliery- village, the population being chiefly 
 employed in the neighbouring mines of the Marquess of 
 Lothian, which are very extensive. It is now gradually 
 falling into decay, the colliers having mostly removed to 
 a new village in the parish. 
 
 EASTWOOD, or POLLOCK, a parish, in the Upper 
 ward of the county of Renfrew, 25 miles (S. W.) from 
 Glasgow ; containing, with the incorporated town of 
 Pollockshaws, the village of Thornliebank, and part of 
 the late quoad sacra district of Levern, 79*0 inhabitants. 
 This parish derives the former of its names from the 
 relative situation of an extensive wood which was a part 
 of it, but which has long been converted into arable 
 land ; and the latter name from the circumstance of 
 the chief lands being designated Pollock. It is about 
 four miles in length from north to south, and three miles 
 in breadth, forming an irregular area of 5000 acres, and 
 bounded on the west by the parish of Paisley, of which a 
 considerable portion is circumscribed by the lands of 
 Eastwood. The surface is pleasingly undulated, inter- 
 sected with tracts of level ground, and rising towards the 
 south into a range of hills, the highest of which has an 
 elevation of 300 feet above the level of the sea. In many 
 parts the scenery is embellished with flourishing plan- 
 tations, and watered by winding streams, which give to 
 it an interesting and picturesque appearance. The river 
 White Cart, rising in the moors of Eaglesham, flows for 
 several miles through the parish in its course to the 
 Clyde, receiving at Pollockshaws the waters of the 
 Auldhouse burn, which issues from a lake in the adjoin- 
 ing parish of Mearns. The Brock burn, which also rises 
 in Mearns, winds through Eastwood, and falls into 
 the Levern, which skirts the western extremity of the 
 parish, and joins the Cart near Cruickston Castle. In 
 the hilly parts towards the south the soil is thin and 
 light, but on the banks of the river and rivulets ex- 
 tremely rich and fertile ; about one-half of the lands is 
 arable and in profitable cultivation, and the remainder, 
 with the exception of about 250 acres of natural wood 
 and 100 of plantation, is good pasture land. The rota- 
 tion system of husbandry is prevalent ; the crops are 
 oats, barley, and wheat, with potatoes and turnips. 
 367 
 
 Some attention is paid to the rearing of cattle, which 
 are generally of the Ayrshire breed ; but the management 
 of live stock forms only a secondary object with the 
 farmer, and consequently few fine specimens are pro- 
 duced. Considerable progress has been made in reclaim- 
 ing the waste, of which large portions have been brought 
 into a state of cultivation, and great improvements have 
 been effected in draining and fencing ; the farm-houses 
 and offices are substantial and commodious, and mostly 
 roofed with slate. The plantations are of oak, elm, ash, 
 sycamore, beech, larch, and Scotch, spruce, and silver 
 firs. The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £21,061. 
 
 The substrata comprise sandstone and limestone, with 
 occasional belts of ironstone. There are some valuable 
 quarries of stone of excellent quality for building and 
 various other purposes. The stone of one of the quar- 
 ries is peculiarly adapted for pavements, hearths, and 
 staircases, and, as it may be cut to any required size, is 
 also employed for cisterns. Another of these quarries 
 produces a very superior kind which is in great demand 
 for the finer sorts of masonry, and is much admired for 
 the uses of the sculptor and the statuary. Limestone 
 is still worked at Arden, and was formerly wrought at 
 Darnley and Cowglen ; but it is of very inferior quality, 
 unfit for burning into lime, and consequently applied 
 chiefly to road-making, and for roughcasting the walls 
 of houses, for which purpose it is well adapted from the 
 hardness it acquires from exposure to the air. Coal 
 abounds in the parish, and is wrought at Cowglen. 
 There are several seams, varying in thickness, but none 
 exceed three feet. Five of these have been worked with 
 success : they are of good quality, and yield an ample 
 supply of fuel ; the pits vary from ten to forty fathoms, 
 in depth, and the annual produce is estimated at nearly 
 £4000. A considerable number of the inhabitants are 
 employed in cotton spinning, weaving, bleaching, and 
 calico-printing, for which large factories have been es- 
 tablished in the town of Pollockshaws, the village of 
 Thornliebank, and Auldhouse. In the bleachfields of 
 the last, more than 200 persons are employed ; the 
 particulars of the two first will be found in the notices 
 of those places under their respective heads. Pollock, 
 the seat of Sir John Maxwell, Bart., is a handsome 
 modern mansion pleasantly situated. Great facility of 
 intercourse is afforded by the Glasgow and Barrhead 
 railway, which intersects the parish. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Paisley, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the gift of 
 Sir John Maxwell ; the minister's stipend is about £140, 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £35 per annum. 
 The old church was taken down, and a new edifice 
 erected in I7SI near the western extremity of Pollock- 
 shaws ; it is a neat building in good repair, and affords 
 accommodation to 76O persons. A second church con- 
 nected with the Establishment has been erected in Pol- 
 lockshaws ; and there are places of worship for members 
 of the Free Church, the United Presbyterian Synod, and 
 the Synod of Original Seceders : the Roman Catholics, 
 who are numerous in the parish, attend the chapel at 
 Glasgow. Eastwood parochial school affords instruction 
 to about 100 scholars ; the master has a salary of £34, 
 with £36 fees, and a house and garden. There are no 
 monuments of antiquity : the only memorials of olden 
 times are some documents in the possession of the
 
 EC C L 
 
 Maxwell family, comprising, among others, a precept 
 from the lords of council of James V. to meet his queen 
 when she came first to Scotland, dated 1527 ; a letter 
 from the Regent-Queen Mary, 1559; a letter from 
 Queen Mary before the battle of Langside ; two letters 
 from James VI. ; and the original, with the subscrip- 
 tions, of the first National Covenant, signed by the king 
 and council, 1581. Among the ministers of Eastwood 
 have been Wodrow, author of some writings on the anti- 
 quities of Scotland, of some lives of the most learned men 
 who have flourished in the country, and of a history of 
 the Scottish Church ; and the Rev. Mr. Crawford, author 
 of an unpublished history of the Church from the intro- 
 duction of Christianity into Scotland till the year 16S0. 
 Walter Stewart, of Pardovan, author of the Collections, 
 died here, while on a visit to the Maxwells, and was in- 
 terred in the aisle of the church appropriated as a place 
 of sepulture for the members of that family, and in 
 which a marble monument was erected to his memory. 
 
 ECCLES, a parish, in the county of Berwick, 
 6 miles (W. by N.) from Coldstream; containing 1946 
 inhabitants. The name is derived from the classical 
 word signifying a church, supposed to have been ap- 
 plied on account of the number of churches or chapels 
 at one time situated here. In this parish is the ancient 
 village of Birgham, celebrated for the meeting, in II S8, 
 between Hugh, Bishop of Durham, and William the 
 Lion, at the instance of Henry II. of England, for the 
 purpose of laying a tax upon the Scots towards the 
 support of the war in the Holy Land. At that place, 
 also, was convened, in March 1290, an august assembly 
 for the settlement of the intended marriage of Prince 
 Edward, son of Edward I., with Margaret of Scotland, 
 a union afterwards prevented by the death of the young 
 princess in one of the Orkneys. Another meeting was 
 held at Birgham in July 1290, at which the Bishop of 
 Durham and five others solemnly assented, in their 
 master's name, to every important regulation made by 
 the Scots for securing the independence of their kingdom. 
 The parish was anciently a seat of Bernardine or Cister- 
 cian nuns, for whom a convent was founded by Cos- 
 patrick. Earl of Dunbar ; but the building has entirely 
 disappeared, with the exception of two vaults, now con- 
 verted into cellars for the mansion-house of one of the 
 landed proprietors. There is much obscurity in ancient 
 documents respecting the date of this reUgious house, 
 Hovedeu and the Melrose Chronicle representing it as 
 founded a second time by the earl in 1154, and Cowpar 
 fixing the event in 1155, while the Scoto-Chronicon 
 annexed to Fordun asserts it to have been established 
 by his countess. In 1296, during the interregnum in 
 Scotland, Ada de Eraser, the prioress, obtained a letter 
 of restitution, in consequence of the fealty sworn to 
 Edward I. by the Scots ; and in the year 1333 Edward 
 III., after taking Berwick, received the homage of the 
 convent. It was visited in 1523, on the 13th of Novem- 
 ber, by the Duke of Albany when retreating from Wark 
 Castle ; he stayed till midnight, and then marched to 
 Lauder. In 1545, the abbey and town, with the tower 
 of Mersington, were destroyed by the Earl of Hertford 
 on his memorable inroad into !Merse and Teviotdale, 
 when he ravaged and burned the whole country without 
 opposition. In 1569, Marieta Hamilton, then prioress 
 of the establishment, granted the village and lands of 
 Eccles, by charter, to Sir Alexander Hamilton of In- 
 368 
 
 E C CL 
 
 nerwick : and the charter was confirmed by Queen Mary 
 at Edinburgh, on the 11th of May in the same year. In 
 the 17th century the village was erected into a burgh of 
 barony in favour of George Home, Earl of Dunbar. 
 
 The PARISH is nearly seven miles long, and five and 
 a half broad, and contains 11,000 acres. With the 
 exception of the slight elevations of Cotchet Ridge, 
 Brae-Dunstan, Bartlehill, Hardacres, and Eccles Hill, 
 the surface is level throughout. It consists entirely of 
 cultivated land, well farmed and fenced, and studded 
 with numerous plantations. The climate, however, is 
 somewhat damp, and to a slight extent unhealthy, arising 
 from the prevalence of a rainy atmosphere. The scenery 
 is much enlivened by the course of the Tweed, which 
 runs on the southern boundary of the parish, and 
 separates Eccles from Northumberland ; its banks rise 
 about fifty feet above the water, and harbour large 
 numbers of foxes, weasels, and rabbits. Near the river 
 the soil is in general light ; in the middle and northern 
 parts of the parish clay and loam predominate, and in 
 the south-east quarter is a portion of moor. It produces 
 excellent crops of all kinds of grain, and turnips and 
 potatoes : the rotation here followed is the four or the 
 five years' shift, which are considered well suited to the 
 district. Sheep are kept on most of the larger farms, 
 consisting mainly of the Cheviot and Leicestershire 
 breeds, the former of which, on account of its being 
 more hardy, is preferred for the clayey lands. Rapid 
 advances have been made in agricultural improvement, 
 and the annual value of real property in the parish now 
 amounts to as large a sum as £19,441. The prevailing 
 rock is the red sandstone, which exists in a great variety 
 of forms and admixtures. At Birgham Haugh, mag- 
 nesian limestone, with red hornstone and crystals of 
 calcareous spar, is found ; and on the southern bank of 
 the river, in addition to the above, are considerable 
 quantities of claystone porphyry. Near Kennetside 
 head, the large proportion of siliceous material gives 
 the sandstone almost the appearance of a quartz rock ; 
 and in the marly sandstone on the banks of the small 
 river Leet are thin beds of gypsum. Among the houses 
 in the parish are Kames, Antonshill, Belchester, Stone- 
 ridge, Purves Hall, and Eccles House, and in the planta- 
 tions of the last-mentioned are several fine old trees, 
 chiefly elm and ash. There are four villages, Eccles, 
 Leitholm, Birgham, and Hassington ; Leitholm is the 
 largest, and has a bye- post to Coldstream. The London 
 and Edinburgh road, by Greenlaw, traverses the parish 
 from south-east to north-west ; and that by Kelso, and 
 the road from Kelso to Berwick, also cross it. 
 
 For ECCLESI.4STICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Dunse, synod of Merse 
 and Teviotdale ; patron, the Crown. The stipend of 
 the minister is about £250, and there is a manse, with 
 a glebe of twenty acres of good land. The first church 
 was dedicated to St. Cuthbert, but the next, built about 
 the year 1250, was in honour of St. Andrew. The pre- 
 sent church was erected in 1774, at an expense of £1000, 
 after the model of St. Cuthbert's chapel-of-ease at Edin- 
 burgh, and is an elegant building seventy-eight feet long 
 and thirty-four feet broad, ornamented with a handsome 
 spire ; it is situated about a mile from the western 
 boundary of the parish, and contains 1000 sittings. 
 There is a place of worship in connexion with the United 
 Presbyterian Synod. The parochial school affords in- 
 
 T 
 
 I
 
 ECCL 
 
 ECHT 
 
 struction in the classics, mathematics, and all the usual 
 branches of education ; the salary of the master is £34, 
 with the fees, aud a house. A friendly society for the 
 relief of the sick and superannuated has been established. 
 The chief relic of antiquity is a monument of white 
 sandstone, in the form of a cross, without any inscrip- 
 tion, situated at Crosshall, about a mile northward of 
 the village of Eccles. The pedestal is a solid block of 
 stone, two feet and a half high, three feet square on its 
 upper surface, and raised a little above the ground ; the 
 column is ten feet high, one foot and a half broad on 
 the east and west sides, and one foot on the north and 
 south, at the bottom. On the north face of the column 
 is sculptured a Calvary cross, surmounted by a shield ; 
 and at the summit of the west side is a cross, with an 
 escutcheon below having chevrons in the dexter and 
 sinister chiefs and the base, and a St. John's cross : the 
 south side has an escutcheon like that on the west, and, 
 beneath, an ancient double-handed sword ; the east has 
 a cross, and, below, the naked figure of a man, and a 
 greyhound. Many conjectures have been made respect- 
 ing the origin and design of this monument : the most 
 probable is that it was erected after the second crusade, 
 in 11 14, in honour of the father of Sir John De Soules, 
 lieutenant or viceroy to John Baliol. On Hardacres 
 Hill, about a mile to the west of the monument, are 
 traces of intrenchment. Eccles was the birthplace of 
 Henry Home, Lord Karnes, born in 1696 ; it was here 
 that he entertained Dr Franklin and his son in 1759, 
 and here he composed many of his works. 
 
 ECCLESCRAIG, in the county of Kincardine.— 
 See St. Cyrus. 
 
 ECCLESFECHAN, a village, in the parish of Hod- 
 dam, county of Dumfries, 6 miles (N.) from Annan ; 
 containing 768 inhabitants. It is very centrally situated, 
 in the south-eastern part of the parish, on the road 
 between Carlisle and Glasgow, and is an important 
 and thriving market- village, with many respectable 
 shops in various branches of trade. A large part of 
 the population is engaged in the manufacture of gingham, 
 which is the chief product of the place. It has a noted 
 cattle fair or market, to which its prosperity has been 
 principally owing, and also a flourishing pork-market ; 
 the former is held monthly, but the great sales are in 
 June and October, and the pork-market is held during the 
 winter. In the vicinity are five cross-roads, and there 
 are great facilities of intercourse afforded to the inhabit- 
 ants by the Caledonian railway, which has a station at 
 Ecclesfechan. A post-office has for some time been 
 established. The parochial church stands about a mile 
 south of the village ; and the members of the Free 
 Church have a place of worship. 
 
 ECCLESMACHAN, a parish, in the county of 
 Linlithgow ; containing, with the villages of Three- 
 Mile-town and Waterston, 303 inhabitants, of whom 
 97 are in the village of Ecclesmachan, 1 mile (N.) 
 from Uphall. This place derives its name from the 
 dedication of its ancient church to St. Machan, who 
 flourislied in the ninth century. It is separated into 
 two detached portions by the intervention of a part of 
 the parish of Linlithgow, and comprises altogether an 
 area of 2458 acres ; about 2300 acres are arable and 
 pasture, 130 woodland and plantations, and the re- 
 mainder roads and waste. The surface rises into two 
 ridges, of which that in the western portion of the 
 Vol. I.— 309 
 
 parish attains an elevation of 600 feet, and is intersected 
 by several shallow ravines ; the eastern ridge, of less 
 height, is precipitously steep, rising on the south into 
 an abrupt eminence called Tar or Tor Hill. The lower 
 grounds are watered by several small streams that flow 
 into the river Almond ; and the prevailing scenery is 
 softened by the thriving plantations that have been 
 formed on the lands of Blackcraig. In general the soil 
 is fertile ; the lands, which are divided into farms of 
 moderate extent, are under good cultivation, and the best 
 system of husbandry has been adopted. The crops are 
 wheat, barley, oats, beans, and turnips. The grounds 
 are well inclosed with hedges of thorn and ditches, and 
 draining has been practised to some extent, but there is 
 still great room for improvement. The rearing of hve 
 stock is confined chiefly to the Ayrshire breed of cattle, 
 with a cross of the short-horned ; oxen of the Angus or 
 the Highland breed, and black-faced sheep, are fattened 
 on the pastures. Coal is plentiful, and was formerly 
 wrought in several parts : sandstone is found on most 
 of the lands ; and in the vicinity of the most prominent 
 rocks, which are of trap, are found large beds of indurated 
 clay, interspersed occasionally with seams of ironstone. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £2718. 
 The village consists of a few houses near the church, 
 and facility of communication is afforded by roads kept 
 in excellent repair by statute labour, and by the road 
 from Edinburgh to Falkirk, which passes through the 
 northern extremity of the parish. Ecclesmachan is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Linlithgow, 
 synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; patron, the Earl of 
 Hopetoun : the minister's stipend is £256. 12., with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum. The 
 church, which was nearly rebuilt in the beginning of 
 the last century, and thoroughly repaired in 1S22, is 
 a plain structure containing 153 sittings. The paro- 
 chial school is attended by about fifty children ; the 
 master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, 
 and the fees average about £20 per annum. A school 
 was erected on the border of the parish by the late 
 Robert Warden, Esq. ; the master is solely dependent 
 on the fees, having only the house rent free, which in 
 summer is used as a preaching-station on the Sabbath 
 evenings. On the Tar hill is a spring called the Bullion 
 Well, the water of which is slightly impregnated with 
 sulphuretted hydrogen. William Hamilton, a poet of 
 eminence in the early part of the 18th century, was 
 either born, or resided in the parish. 
 
 ECHT, a parish, in the district of Kincardine 
 O'Neil, county of Aberdeen, 12 miles distant (W.) from 
 Aberdeen; containing 10*8 inhabitants. This parish is 
 nearly a square in figure, each side measuring about 
 four miles and a half; and comprises between 15,000 
 and 16,000 acres, of which 7000 are in tillage, 2000 in 
 plantations, and the remainder uncultivated. It con- 
 sists chiefly of a valley lying between two hills of un- 
 equal height, the more elevated of which, called the Hill 
 of Fare, is situated about one mile south-west from the 
 church, and is but partly in the parish. The base of 
 this hill is nearly eighteen miles in circumference, and 
 its height 1794 feet above the level of the sea; it has 
 some thriving plantations of fir, abundance of the usual 
 kinds of game, and several chalybeate springs, said to 
 be beneficial in scorbutic and nephritic complaints. On 
 the outskirts of the parish are other rising grounds, 
 
 3B
 
 ECHT 
 
 ECK F 
 
 cultivated to the summit ; and in the north-western 
 portion is a hill of conical form, called the Barniekin, 
 about two-thirds of the height of the Hill of Fare, en- 
 tirely shrouded in wood, and contributing by its sylvan 
 beauties to enhance the effect of the varied and pleasing 
 scenery of the locality. The lower grounds are mossy ; 
 the soil in some places is light and sandy, and that of 
 the best lands is in general a light loam, on a claj'ey 
 subsoil. The climate is mild ; and the crops, comprising 
 bear, potatoes, hay, turnips, and oats, are early and of 
 good quality. The system of farming has been greatly 
 improved within the present century, and some of the 
 estates exhibit the skill and perseverance of the most 
 successful hu.sbandry ; lime is extensively used, and 
 bone-dust has of late years been applied with much 
 advantage. Among the large tracts of waste land which 
 have been reclaimed, that on the estate of Echt, amount- 
 ing to 1S60 acres, is the chief. Inclosures and drains 
 have been formed on all the principal farms ; the late 
 and present proprietors of Echt have formed upwards of 
 150,000 ells of stone dykes, and upwards of 40,000 ells 
 of drains : there are many substantial and convenient 
 farm-houses and offices, and above forty mills have been 
 erected for threshing grain. The few sheep kept are the 
 Cheviot and the black-faced ; the cattle are mostly of 
 the Aberdeenshire, with a few of the Teeswater. Granite 
 is occasionally quarried. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £.5690. 
 
 Between 1500 and '2000 acres have been planted in 
 the last half century on the estate of Echt, and the pro- 
 prietor has transplanted about 150 large trees to orna- 
 ment the grounds of his elegant and commodious man- 
 sion : the house was built in the year 1S'20, and has a 
 very extensive garden, with a park of eighty acres. A 
 branch post has been established. The parish is inter- 
 sected by the high road from Aberdeen to Tarland, and 
 a road from the former place to Alford runs along a 
 small part of the northern extremity of Echt ; a third 
 road, to Kincardine O'Neil, strikes off from the Tarland 
 road at the eastern boundary, and traverses a consi- 
 derable portion of the parish in a south-western direction. 
 Several fairs are held annually, chiefly for sheep, cattle, 
 horses, and corn. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the 
 presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil, synod of Aberdeen, 
 and in the patronage of the Earl of Fife ; the minister's 
 stipend is £183, with a manse, and a glebe of about four 
 and a half acres, valued at £ 1 per annum. Echt church, 
 built in the year 1804, is capable of affording accommo- 
 dation to 600 persons ; it is a neat structure, comfortably 
 fitted up, and being centrally situated, is convenient for 
 the bulk of the population. The parochial school affords 
 instruction in the usual branches ; the master has a 
 salary of £'29, with a house, and £'20 fees, and also par- 
 ticipates in the benefit of the Dick bequest. The remains 
 of a Danish camp are still visible on the hill of Barmekin, 
 comprehending five intrenchments ; the inner inclosure, 
 which is almost circular, measures 300 feet in diameter, 
 and covers about one acre of ground. In the vicinity are 
 several cairns and tumuli, and in another part of the parish 
 is a Pictish work in the form of a horse- shoe. On the 
 28th of October, 156'2, the district was the scene of the 
 battle of Corrichie, fought between the forces of the 
 Earl of Huntly and those of the Earl of Murraj' ; the 
 former were defeated, their commander slain, and his son, 
 Sir John Gordon, afterwards beheaded at Aberdeen. 
 3/0 
 
 ECKFORD, a parish, in the district of Kelso, 
 county of Roxburgh ; containing, with the villages of 
 Caverton and Cessford, 1069 inhabitants, of whom 98 
 are in the village of Eckford, 5 miles (S. by W.) from 
 Kelso, and 48 in that of Eckfordmoss, adjoining. This 
 parish appears to have derived its name from a ford 
 across the river Teviot near the village, and from the 
 number of oak-trees with which the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood anciently abounded. On account of its situa- 
 tion only a few miles from the border, the parish was 
 frequently the scene of violence and devastation, and 
 within its limits were several strongholds, such as Moss 
 Tower, Ormiston Tower, and Eckford Tower, for defence 
 against the incursions of the English, and as places of 
 security for cattle and other property. Of these,' Moss 
 Tower was the most important, both for its strength 
 and for its position in a marsh near the village, and also 
 from its being the residence of Hepburn, Earl of Both- 
 well. This castle was assaulted in 1523 by a party of 
 English led by Thomas, Lord Dacre, who, on the same 
 day, demolished Ormiston Tower and numerous other 
 places in the vicinity; and in 1544 it was burnt, to- 
 gether with the tower and church of Eckford, by a body 
 of the English under Sir Ralph Eure, who put to death 
 nearly fifty of the inhabitants. It appears to have been 
 rebuilt, but was again destroyed by the Earl of Sussex, 
 who, in 1 5/0, laid waste a large portion of the surround- 
 ing district. But the most famous fortress in the parish 
 was Cessford Castle, the ancient manorial residence of 
 Sir Robert Ker, ancestor of the Duke of Roxburghe's 
 family, and warden of the Scottish middle marches. 
 This fortress was of considerable importance, and in 
 1523 the Earl of Surrey in vain attempted to reduce it, 
 but after a protracted siege obtained possession by capi- 
 tulation. The ruins still in a great measure remain, 
 and show it to have been of no ordinary strength. The 
 chief building is a quadrangular pile sixty-seven feet 
 long, sixty feet broad, and sixty-five feet high, with walls 
 nearly thirteen feet in thickness ; it was once surrounded 
 by an inner and outer wall, part of the latter of which 
 is still remaining, and the interval between them is sup- 
 posed to have been appropriated to the keeping of cattle 
 and other valuable property placed there for security in 
 times of danger. Some traces of the moat by which the 
 whole was inclosed may also be perceived. In 1553, the 
 village of Eckford, which had been a town of no little im- 
 portance, was burnt by the Marquess of Dorset. 
 
 The PARISH, which is of triangular form, is about six 
 miles in extreme length, and four and a half in extreme 
 breadth, and comprises 9695 acres, whereof 7728 are 
 arable, 813 woodland and plantations, and the remain- 
 der rough pasture, common, and waste. Its surface is 
 generally undulated, rising towards the south into mo- 
 derate elevations, the principal of which are Wooden hill 
 and Caverton hill, commanding extensive and pleasingly- 
 varied prospects, embracing on the west the fertile vale 
 of Teviot, with the beautiful scenery along the banks of 
 that river ; and the valley of the river Kale, with its 
 picturesque ranges of hills. The Teviot has its source 
 among the hills that separate the counties of Roxburgh 
 and Dumfries, and, after flowing through the parish, falls 
 into the Tweed near Kelso. The Kale, which rises in 
 the Cheviot hills, in the county of Northumberland, after 
 an impetuous course of about eighteen miles, falls into 
 the Teviot to the north of the church ; its banks in va- 
 
 f
 
 E C K F 
 
 EDDE 
 
 rious parts are richly wooded. There is a lake situated 
 near the village, at the base of Wooden hill; it occupies 
 the bed of an extensive marl- pit which was formerly 
 wrought, and in some places the waters are thirty feet 
 in depth. In the slimy bottom of this lake, medicinal 
 leeches of excellent quality used to be found in consi- 
 derable numbers ; but no traces of such are now to be 
 found, probably from the quantity of water it contains. 
 The scenery throughout Eckford is of pleasing character, 
 and the prospects are enriched with the flourishing plan- 
 tations that prevail in most parts of the parish. 
 
 The SOIL is various ; in the lower grounds, and more 
 especially on the banks of the Teviot, a light friable 
 loam ; on the higher grounds, partaking more of the 
 nature of clay. It is generally fertile, and by good 
 management rendered highly productive : the crops are 
 oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, turnips, peas, and beans. 
 The system of agriculture is in a very improved state, 
 and the five-shift rotation of husbandry usually prac- 
 tised ; the lands are well drained, and inclosed chiefly 
 with hedges of thorn. Much waste has been reclaimed 
 and brought into profitable cultivation. Attention is 
 paid to the improvement of live stock ; the sheep are 
 mostly of the Leicestershire breed, and the cattle pas- 
 tured in the parish of the short-horned breed. The an- 
 nual value of real property in Eckford is £SS37. The 
 woods comprise all the varieties of forest-trees, and 
 flourish greatly ; the plantations are chiefly of Scotch, 
 spruce, and silver firs, of which there is a tract of nearly 
 360 acres at Caverton-Edge, where formerly the Kelso 
 races were held, and which, from one of the titles of its 
 proprietor, the Duke of Roxburghe, is called Beaumont 
 Forest. There are many specimens of ancient timber of 
 stately growth in various parts of the parish. The prin- 
 cipal substrata are whinstoue and sandstone, which are 
 both occasionally quarried for building and other pur- 
 poses. A small seam of coal was discovered many years 
 since at Caverton-Edge, but it was not wrought with 
 sufficient spirit to produce any beneficial result. The 
 manufacture of agricultural implements is carried on at 
 Kalemouth ; and there are mills for grinding corn at Or- 
 miston, Eckford, and Caverton. 
 
 Marlefield House, the property of the Marquess of 
 Tweeddale, is a spacious mansion pleasantly situated in 
 a demesne richly planted, and tastefully laid out ; in 
 front of the house is an extensive lawn, and the grounds 
 are in some parts embellished with avenues of lime-trees. 
 It was the birthplace of Sir William Bennet, the inti- 
 mate friend of Ramsay, whose pastoral of the Gentle 
 Shepherd was first represented in the presence of the 
 families of Marlefield and Clifton, at the residence of 
 the latter, in the neighbouring parish of Linton : the 
 scenery of the pastoral is thought to have been de- 
 scriptive of the vicinity of Marlefield. The poet Thom- 
 son, also, spent much of his time with Sir William Bennet 
 at this place, and he is supposed to have composed the 
 "Winter" of Jiis Seasons within four miles of Marlefield, 
 on a hill in the adjoining parish of Morebattle, to which 
 he frequently resorted. Sir William lived during the 
 greater period of his life in the parish ; and in an aisle ad- 
 joining the church, which was the place of sepulture of the 
 family, his remains were interred. The ancient mansion- 
 house of Haughhead is on the south bank of the river 
 Kale, near Eckford mill, and is still in a tolerable state 
 of repair. At a short distance from it is an artificial 
 371 
 
 mound of earth and stones intermixed, surrounded with 
 clumps of old fir-trees ; on the summit is a stone com- 
 memorating the result of a dispute between Hall, the 
 original proprietor of Haughhead, and his neighbour, 
 Ker of Cessford, whom he defeated in an attempt to 
 take possession of his estate. The villages have facility 
 of intercourse with Kelso and other towns in the district 
 by good roads, and by two bridges over the Teviot and 
 Kale, both of one arch, and neatly built of stone. An 
 elegant chain-bridge, also, was thrown across the Teviot, 
 near its confluence with the Kale, by the late Wilham 
 Mein, Esq., of Ormiston ; it is 180 feet in length, and 
 sixteen feet in breadth, and forms an interesting feature 
 in the landscape. The Hawick and Kelso turnpike-road 
 passes through the parish in its western portion. 
 
 Eckford is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Jed- 
 burgh, synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and in the pa- 
 tronage of the Crown ; the minister's stipend is about 
 £220, with a manse, and glebe valued at £1'2. 5. per 
 annum. The church, which was dependent on the abbey 
 of Jedburgh, is a substantial edifice finely situated on 
 the south bank of the river Teviot, and is adapted for a 
 congregation of 300 persons. There are two parochial 
 schools, affording together instruction to about ]'20 
 scholars. Of that in the village of Eckford the master 
 has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, and fees 
 averaging about £21 per annum ; the master of the pa- 
 rochial school at Caverton mill has a salary of £17, a 
 house and garden, and fees averaging £17, with the in- 
 terest of a bequest of £40. There is also a school at 
 Cessford, attended by about forty scholars ; the master 
 has a schoolroom rent-free, in addition to the fees, which 
 amount to £'20. A little to the north of the castle, and 
 near Cessford burn, is a cavern of considerable size, 
 called Hobbie Ker's Cave ; and about three miles further 
 to the north, on the farm of Grahamslaw, are several 
 other caves of artificial construction, which in perilous 
 times formed places of refuge for the Covenanters, who 
 had one of their two great conventicles in this quarter, 
 the other being at Maybole, in Ayrshire. Stone coffins 
 have been frequently met with ; and in one, discovered 
 on the farm of Eckford-Eastmains in 1831, were found 
 a few human bones, and a small Roman jar filled with 
 black dust. To the west of Caverton hill are the remains 
 of a tumulus, called the Black dyke, now nearly on a 
 level with the contiguous field. On the farm of Moss 
 Tower, a coin or medal of the Empress Faustina has 
 been found in the peat-moss, of which the inscription 
 was quite legible. Near Caverton was an ancient chapel 
 founded by Walter Ker of Cessford ; but there are no 
 vestiges of it : close to it is a well, for many years called 
 Priest's well, but now almost undistinguished. 
 
 EDAY, in the county of Orkney. — See Stronsay 
 and Eday. 
 
 EDDERTON, a parish, in the county of Ross and 
 Cromarty, 5 miles distant (S. W.) from the town of 
 Tain; containing 97.5 inhabitants. This place, which 
 derives its name from its situation among hills that 
 surround it on all sides except the north, was noted in 
 the reign of William the Lion for its castle near the 
 shore of the Firth of Dornoch, erected by that mo- 
 narch to command the ferry between the counties of 
 Ross and Sutherland. In 1227, Ferquhard or Farquhar, 
 Earl of Ross, having accompanied Alexander II. into 
 England, challenged a renowned French champion whom 
 
 3 B 2
 
 ED D E 
 
 ED D L 
 
 he met at the court of Henry III. to single combat, and, 
 in gratitude for his victory, founded here on his return 
 the abbey of Fearn, which he amply endowed for Au- 
 gustine monks. From the frequent annoyances, how- 
 ever, to which the brethren were exposed in this situa- 
 tion, the founder, at the request of the abbot, removed 
 the establishment, about the year 1*246, to a more se- 
 cluded spot about twelve miles distant, in the parish of 
 Fearn, where it continued to flourish till the Reforma- 
 tion, when one-half of its revenues was granted to the 
 bishopric of Ross, and the remainder to the Ross family 
 of Balnagown. The parish is bounded on the north 
 by Dornoch Firth and the Firth of Tain, and is about 
 ten miles in length, and nearly eight miles in extreme 
 breadth, comprising an area of 41,760 acres, of which 
 1630 are arable, 710 woodland and plantation, and the 
 remainder meadow, pasture, and moor. Its surface is 
 partly level, consisting of three successive ledges of 
 table-land, and in other portions diversified with nu- 
 merous hills, the most conspicuous of which are, Cam- 
 buscurry to the east, having an elevation of 600 feet 
 above the level of the sea, and the hill of Struie to the 
 west, rising to the height of 1000 feet : both these are 
 wholly within the parish. Cnoc-an-t-Sabhal, on the 
 southern boundary, is about 1000 feet in height ; and 
 Muidhe-Bhlarie, on the south-west border, has an ele- 
 vation of 1300 feet above the sea. There are four small 
 rivers, which have their source in the parish, the Edder- 
 ton burn, the Daan, the Easter Fearn, and the Grugaig : 
 during the dry season they are very inconsiderable 
 streams, but after rains they become swollen and impe- 
 tuous in their course, and have sometimes been known 
 to sweep away the bridges built over them. 
 
 The SOIL in the higher lands near the sea is gravelly, 
 in the lower a deep alluvial loam alternated with sand, 
 and in other places a mixture of clay, gravel, and moss ; 
 the arable lands are in good cultivation, and the system 
 of husbandry has been improved under the encourage- 
 ment given to his tenants by the principal landholder. 
 Sir Charles Ross. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £1794. The plantations, some of which 
 are of early date, are oak, birch, and Scotch fir : of the 
 last there are about 100 acres on the lands of Balna- 
 gown in a very flourishing condition, and chiefly of long 
 growth. In the deeper mosses are found the trunks and 
 roots of fir, oak, hazel, and birch, some of them of great 
 dimensions. The substrata are principally old red sand- 
 stone, conglomerate, and limestone ; and in the hill of 
 Struie are found gneiss, quartz, granite, and whinstone. 
 The chief residences are, Ardmore House, beautifully 
 situated ; Balblair ; and Upper Edderton. There is no 
 village in the parish : at Ardmore, on the Firth of Tain, 
 is a good harbour accessible to vessels of 100 tons, and 
 during the summer several vessels arrive with supplies 
 of coal, lime, and other merchandise. At Balblair is a 
 distillery, commenced about fifty years since ; it con- 
 sumes 120 bushels of malt weekly, producing 240 gallons 
 of whisky, in very high repute. Facility of communi- 
 cation with Tain, from the markets of which the inha- 
 bitants are supplied with provisions, is afforded by the 
 turnpike-road to Bonar-Bridgc. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes Edderton is within the 
 
 bounds of the presbytery of Tain, synod of Ross. The 
 
 minister's stipend is £203. 14., with a manse, and a 
 
 glebe valued at £16 per annum; patron, the Marchi- 
 
 372 
 
 oness of Stafford. The former church, erected in 1743 
 and efficiently repaired in 1794, a neat plain structure 
 containing 350 sittings, being inconveniently situated, a 
 new church was built in 1S41 in a more centrical part of 
 the parish. It is a fine, well-built edifice, with a hand- 
 some belfry and spire ; the interior is of elegant appear- 
 ance, and will accommodate 800 persons. The members 
 of the Free Church have taken possession of the old 
 edifice. The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £34, 
 with a house and garden, and the fees average about £5 
 per annum. A female school, supported by the Society 
 for Propagating Christian Knowledge, was established in 
 1837, and a Gaelic school in 1840 by the Gaelic Society 
 of Edinburgh. Behind the parochial school-house is an 
 obelisk of rough whinstone, ten feet in height, on which 
 is sculptured the figure of a fish, probably a salmon, 
 with two concentric circles below it ; and surrounding 
 the pillar, at a distance of three yards from its base, is 
 an intrenchment about two feet in height, inclosing an 
 area within which a fight took place between some of 
 the inhabitants and a party of Norwegian pirates, when 
 Carius, the leader of the latter, was killed. The name 
 of the place is from that event called Carry-Blair. In 
 the churchyard is a sculptured stone, on which is a war- 
 rior on horseback, with a large cross above, and on the 
 other side various concentric circles and hieroglyphics. 
 A complete chain of circular forts formerly surrounded 
 the parish, but few of them at present are in any tole- 
 rable state of preservation : one, called Dune AUiscaig, 
 about fourteen feet in height, and having a spiral stair- 
 case within the walls, was demolished in the year 1818 
 for the sake of the materials which it afforded. 
 
 EDDLESTONE, a parish, in the county of Peebles ; 
 containing 742 inhabitants, of whom 139 are in the vil- 
 lage, 4 miles (N.) from Peebles. This parish is undis- 
 tinguished by any events of historical importance. It 
 is about ten miles in length from north to south, and 
 seven miles in breadth, and comprises 21,250 acres, of 
 which 4370 are arable, 1050 woodland and plantations, 
 and 15,830 permanent pasture and meadow. The sur- 
 face is diversified by hills covered with verdure to their 
 summits. Dundroich, or Druid's hill, the highest emi- 
 nence, has an elevation of 2100 feet above the level of 
 the sea, and commands an extensive and finely-varied 
 prospect, embracing the Cheviot hills, part of the pleas- 
 ing vales of Teviot, Annan, and Clyde, with portions of 
 the counties of Perth and Fife, the river Forth, and the 
 city of Edinburgh. The chief river is the South Esk, 
 which issues from a lake about two miles in circumfer- 
 ence, at the base of Dundroich, and flows into the sea 
 at Musselburgh ; the lake abounds with pike, eels, and 
 perch, and forms an interesting feature in the sceuery, 
 which is also enriched with extensive plantations of mo- 
 dern growth. The soil is various, and on some of the 
 farms might be rendered much more fertile than it is, 
 by the adoption of a more extensive system of draining : 
 the crops are oats, barley, wheat, peas, ^potatoes, and 
 turnips. The system of agriculture is in an improved 
 state, and the farm buildings are generally substantial 
 and commodious ; the lands in many parts are well in- 
 closed, and the fences mostly kept in good order. About 
 5500 sheep are fed on the hills, nearly one-half of them 
 being of the Cheviot, and the rest of the black-faced 
 breed ; on the dairy-farms about 280 milch-cows are 
 pastured, chiefly of the Ayrshire and Teeswater breeds,
 
 EDD R 
 
 E DD R 
 
 and there are 500 head of young cattle in the parish. 
 The woods and plantations are well managed, and for the 
 most part in a thriving condition. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish, as returned for the Income 
 tax, is £6694. The village is pleasantly situated, neatly 
 built, and well inhabited ; a post-office has been esta- 
 blished, and has a daily delivery from Edinburgh and 
 Peebles, with which and other places there is facility of 
 communication. A fair used to be held in the village 
 on the 25th of September ; it was formerly a consider- 
 able mart for cattle, and the hiring of farm servants, but 
 of late has fallen into desuetude. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Peebles, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and in the 
 patronage of Lord Elibank ; the minister's stipend is 
 about £'^50, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £24 
 per annum. Eddlestone church, rebuilt in 18'39, is a 
 neat and substantial edifice adapted for a congregation 
 of 420 persons. The parochial school affords education 
 to about 120 children : the master's salary is £34, with 
 £42 fees, a good house, and an allowance of two bolls of 
 meal in lieu of a garden ; he has also the privilege of 
 taking boarders. There are remains of three circular 
 camps, evidently Danish : one of these, on the lands of 
 Norshield, has been preserved nearly in its original state 
 of perfection, and surrounded with a plantation ; the 
 others are almost obliterated. On the lands of King- 
 side, a vessel has been dug up containing a large number 
 of gold and silver coins, the former in good preservation, 
 but the latter much defaced : upon some was legible the 
 inscription Jacubus S. ScotoTiim Rex: Near the northern 
 extremity of this farm was a tumulus, inclosed with 
 three circular walls, and which, being opened by the 
 tenant, was found to contain a rudely-formed stone 
 coffin, in which were human bones in a partly calcined 
 state, and close to it a variety of brazen weapons, in form 
 resembling a.xes : two of the weapons were sent to the 
 museum of the Antiquarian Society of Edinburgh. 
 Ringside farm was a hunting-seat belonging to James 
 VL The Rev. Patrick Robertson, the present incumbent, 
 is the great-grandson of the Rev. James Robertson, who 
 was ordained to the parish in 1697, and, after a minis- 
 tration of fifty years, was succeeded by his son Alex- 
 ander, who in 1772 was followed by his son Dr. Patrick 
 Robertson, who held the living for fifty years, and died 
 in 1822. 
 
 EDDRACHILLIS, a parish, in the county of 
 Sutherland, 15 miles (N. N. W.) from Assynt ; in- 
 cluding the islands of Handa and Scourie, and the late 
 quoad sacra district of Kcanlochbervie ; and containing 
 1699 inhabitants. The Celtic name of this place, Eadar- 
 da-chaolas, signifies " between two kyles or arms of the 
 sea ", and is descriptive of the situation of the main part 
 of the parish between the kyle of Scow, which sepa- 
 rates Eddrachillis from Assynt on the south, and the 
 kyle of Laxford. The parish was anciently part of the 
 barony of Skelbo, and was granted by Hugo Freskyn 
 de Moravia, ancestor of the Duke of Sutherland, in the 
 twelfth century, to his brother. Bishop Gilbert Moray, 
 by whom, in 1235, it was transferred to a third brother, 
 Richard Moray, of Culbyn. About the year 1440, it 
 came to the family of Kinnaird of Kinnaird, by an 
 heiress, Egidia Moray ; and in 1515, Andrew Kinnaird 
 disposed of it to John Mackay of Eddrachillis, son of 
 Mackay of Strathnaver, the superiority remaining with 
 373 
 
 the Earls of Sutherland. In 1829, it was restored to 
 the Sutherland family by purchase. So early as 1550, 
 another branch of the Mackays seized the territory of 
 Scourie by displacing the Mc Leods, and located them- 
 selves here under the title of Mackays of Scourie. From 
 this family sprang Lieutenant-General Hugh Mackay, 
 the famous commander-in-chief in the time of William 
 and Mary, eminent for his skill and bravery, and who 
 fell in the year 1692, shortly after the siege of Namur, 
 where he commanded the British division of the grand , 
 army. 
 
 The PARISH was formerly included in Durness, but 
 was separated in 1726. Its extreme length from north 
 to south is twenty-five miles, its mean breadth seven 
 miles, and it contains an area of about 112,000 acres. 
 It is situated in the angle of the county formed by the 
 Atlantic and Northern Seas, and in its general features, 
 like other Highland districts, is exceedingly wild, rugged, 
 and mountainous, but in some parts highly romantic, 
 and interesting to the tourist. The outline is altogether 
 irregular, being indented by numerous fissures and arms 
 of the sea, and the parish is naturally formed into three 
 parts, namely, the Scourie division, between Loch 
 Glendhu and Loch Laxford ; Ceatliramh-garbh, between 
 Loch Laxford and Loch Inchard ; and Ashare. The 
 derivation of the first of these three names is unknown ; 
 the second signifies " a rough section of country ", and 
 the third " arable land ". The principal mountains are, 
 Beinne-Leothaid, Beinne-Stac, Beinne-Stroim, Arkle, and 
 the south-west range of the Reay forest to the summit 
 of Toinne-Beinne, Meal-Horn, Sabhal-mhoir, and Mille- 
 Rinidh, with part of Beinne-Shith : several of these rise 
 3000 feet above the level of the sea. The Reay forest, 
 or Diru-inoir, claims particular notice, having always 
 been reckoned one of the principal forests in Scotland. 
 Considerable tracts of it had been allotted for sheep at 
 the commencement of the present century, but upon the 
 expiration of the leases, the proprietor restored the 
 whole to its ancient character of a deer forest, and the 
 extent of land set apart for this purpose is estimated at 
 60,000 acres, half in this parish and half in Durness. 
 Thousands of red-deer roam in this territory, under the 
 management of regularly appointed foresters. Almost 
 every description of game visits the parish, and the 
 black eagle occupies the highest rocks. The harbours 
 are numerous and excellent, and are said to be capable 
 of affording safe anchorage to the whole naval and mer- 
 cantile shipping of Great Britain ; those most celebrated 
 are Lochs Laxford, Inchard, Badcall, Calva, Glendhu, 
 and the Sound of Handa. Besides the island of Handa, 
 there is a cluster of isles consisting of about twenty, 
 lying between Eddrachillis and Assynt, which are unin- 
 habited, but afford good pasturage for lambs and cattle. 
 The most remarkable inland lakes are Loch Moir and 
 Loch Stac, which are well stocked with different kinds 
 of trout ; the most considerable rivers are the Laxford 
 and the Inchard, which, with numerous minor streams, 
 discharge themselves into the Atlantic Ocean. The dif 
 ferent districts of the parish are well supplied with water, 
 principally from perennial springs. 
 
 Though the principal occupation, besides fishing, is 
 the rearing and pasturing of sheep, yet some part of the 
 laud is under tillage. The soil is generally a mixture of 
 gravel and moss, considerably improved by the applica- 
 tion of sea- weed for manure; the lands of Ashare are
 
 n 
 
 EDEN 
 
 EDIN 
 
 superior to the rest, and like the island of Handa con- 
 sist of dark loam mixed with sand. The crops raised 
 are potatoes, bear, and oats, the ground for which is 
 prepared by the common garden spade and the Highland 
 implement called the cas-chrom. On the large farms 
 the sheep are the pure Cheviots ; those of the smaller 
 tenants are a cross between the Cheviot and the native 
 black-faced : the cattle are of an inferior kind. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £30'27- 
 The rocks comprise gneiss, hornblende, veins of granite, 
 and quartz ; limestone, also, is met with on the sides of 
 some of the lochs. Handa is composed chiefly of the 
 best sort of red sandstone ; its rocks lie horizontally, and 
 are considered by geologists as possessing an almost equal 
 interest, though of another kind, with the celebrated ba- 
 saltic columns in the island of Staffa. 
 
 The people are principally located on the sea-coast, in 
 townships or hamlets, each family possessing a certain 
 portion of land ; and their occupation consists partly of 
 tiUing the ground and partly of fishing, the latter com- 
 prehending the herring, salmon, white, and lobster fish- 
 eries. Those who have commodious boats go for her- 
 rings to the Caithness coast, but large quantities are 
 taken at home in the lochs, especially in Loch Glendhu. 
 The salmon-fishing is good, and of the swarms of almost 
 every description of white-fish on these shores very con- 
 siderable numbers are taken ; all kinds of shell-fish are 
 abundant, and lobsters are conveyed from this place in 
 smacks, by a London company, to the market at Billings- 
 gate. Whales, porpoises, and seals likewise frequent the 
 coast ; but the first of these are never captured. The 
 chief approach to the parish from the south is through 
 a part of Assynt to the kyle of Scow, where is a ferry 
 380 yards broad. There is a post-office at Scourie, which 
 communicates twice a week with the office at Golspie; 
 and three inns have been erected at the expense of the 
 Duke of Sutherland, by whose liberality and exertions 
 the aspect of the district has been entirely changed. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Tongue, synod of Sutherland and Caith- 
 ness ; patron, the Crown. The stipend is £158, of which 
 £103 are paid by the exchequer ; with a glebe valued at 
 £'20 per annum, and a manse at Badcall, lately erected. 
 Eddrachillis church is a plain edifice, built upwards of a 
 century ago, and thoroughly repaired about twelve years 
 since ; it is a commodious edifice in very excellent con- 
 dition, and contains 275 sittings. There is also a good 
 church at Keanlochbervie, to which a quoad sacra dis- 
 trict w^as annexed: it was erected in 18'2S-9, at the ex- 
 pense of government ; contains 350 sittings, and is of 
 sufficient height to be enlarged by galleries. The sti- 
 pend of the minister at Keanlochbervie is £120, paid 
 from the exchequer ; and there is a manse, with a glebe of 
 some acres. The members of the Free Church have two 
 places of worship. There is a parochial school at Scourie ; 
 the master has the maximum salary, a house, and allow- 
 ance for a garden. A school was erected and endowed 
 for the Keanlochbervie district in 1845, and another is 
 supported at Ashare by the Society for Propagating 
 Christian Knowledge. 
 
 EDEKKILLIE, or Edenkeillie, in the county of 
 Moray. — See Edinkillie. 
 
 EDENTON, a village, in the parish of Collessie, 
 district of Cupar, county of Fife ; containing 45 inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 374 
 
 EDINBURGH, a 
 
 city, the seat of a university, 
 and the metropolis of the 
 kingdom of Scotland, situ- 
 ated in longitude 3° 10' 30" 
 (W.), and latitude 55° 57' 29" 
 (N.), about a mile (S. by W.) 
 from Leith, 47 miles (S. S. W.) 
 from Dundee, 47 (E. by N.) 
 from Glasgow, 45 (S. by E.) 
 from Perth, 58 (W. by N.) 
 from Berwick-upon-Tweed, 
 100 (N. by W.) from Carlisle, 
 109 (S. W. by S.) from Aberdeen, 156 (S. by E.) from 
 Inverness, 270 (N. E.) from Dublin, and 402 (N. N. W.) 
 from London ; containing 56,330, and, including the sub- 
 urban parishes of St. Cuthbert and Canongate, 138,182 
 inhabitants. The following is a list of the subjects com- 
 prised in the article, with the page in which each head 
 or division occurs : — 
 
 Seal and Arms. 
 
 History 374 
 
 General Description of the 
 City 384 
 
 Its Extension at various 
 Periods 385 
 
 Notice of the Castle 387 
 
 Of Holjrood Abbey and Pa- 
 lace 
 
 Of the Parliament-House, 
 and the Libraries of the 
 Advocates and the Wri- 
 ters to the Signet . . . 
 
 Of the College of Physi- 
 cians, that of Surgeons, 
 and the Medical Society 
 
 Of the Royal Exchange, and 
 the Bank of Scotland 
 
 387 
 
 389 
 
 389 
 
 390 
 
 The Register Office 390 
 
 Literary and Scientific In- 
 stitutions ; Gardens ; As- 
 sembly Rooms ; Theatre 390 
 
 Monuments .392 
 
 Railways 393 
 
 Municipal Affairs ; County 
 Hall; Prisons 394 
 
 History, Government, Build- 
 ings, of the Univereity . . 396 
 
 New College, High School, 
 and Academy 398 
 
 Ecclesiastical arrangements, 
 and Places of Worship . . 399 
 
 Hospitals and other Chari- 
 table Institutions 402 
 
 Eminent Natives 401; 
 
 Historical Account. 
 
 This city takes its name, in ancient records Dun Edin, 
 signifying " the hill of Edin or Edwin ", from its castle, 
 which was either founded or rebuilt by Edwin, King of 
 Northumbria, who, having greatly increased his power 
 and extended his dominions, in 626 erected a strong for- 
 tress for the protection of his newly-acquired territories 
 from the frequent incursions of the Scots and Picts. 
 The original fortress is supposed to have existed prior 
 to the year 452, at which time it was captured by the 
 Saxons, and Edinburgh remained in their possession till 
 685, when it was recovered by the Scots ; but it was 
 soon afterwards again taken by the Saxons, and con- 
 tinued to form part of the kingdom of Northumbria 
 until 936. In that year it was granted, together with 
 all the lands reaching to the Firth of Forth, by Athel- 
 stan to his sister on her marriage with Sictrich of 
 Sihtric ; but about 956 it was ultimately regained by 
 the Scots, since which it has been included in their 
 kingdom. The very tardy increase of the town, which 
 did not attain to any considerable importance prior to 
 the fourteenth century, is attributed to its situation on 
 the south side of the Firth, and its consequent exposure 
 to the depredations of the English, by whom it was often 
 pillaged and burnt in their hostde incursions. From the 
 frequency of these devastations, moreover, not only was 
 the progress of the town, which from its castle was called 
 " Edwin's burgh ", materially retarded, but the public 
 
 i
 
 EDI N 
 
 EDI N 
 
 records (if any) were destroyed ; and the city archives 
 throw light on no transactions of authenticity prior to 
 the year 1329, when Robert I. granted the inhabitants a 
 charter. Indeed, even from that period till the year 
 1581 there occur only a few unconnected and unimpor- 
 tant events. 
 
 It is not known by which of the Scottish monarchs 
 Edinburgh was first constituted a royal burgh ; but that 
 it was such in the reign of David I. is evident from 
 reference made to it in charters granted by him to other 
 towns, and which have been preserved ; and it is more 
 than probable that the lands called the Borough-Moor 
 and Borough-Myre were bestowed by that sovereign, in 
 his charter to the city, now lost. In 1385, John, Earl 
 of Carrick, son of Robert II., and lord high steward of 
 Scotland, conferred upon the inhabitants, by charter of 
 the 4th of July, power to erect houses in the precincts 
 of the castle, with the privilege of free ingress and egress 
 to their servants ; and in 1388, Robert II., by charter 
 of the 15th of July, gave them a tract of land on the 
 north side of the Market-street, for the improvement of 
 the town. In 1437, Walter, Earl of Atholl, his grand- 
 son Robert, and kinsman Robert Graham, were pub- 
 licly executed in Edinburgh for the murder of James I. 
 in the monastery of the Black Friars at Perth. James 
 II., by charter dated the 4th of November, 1447, al- 
 lowed the citizens the liberty of holding an annual fair 
 on the festival of the Holy Trinity. In 1461, Henry VI. 
 of England, with his queen Margaret, and his son Ed- 
 ward, Prince of Wales, after the defeat of his army at 
 the battle of Towton, fled for refuge into Scotland, 
 and was hospitably entertained in Edinburgh Castle. 
 The honourable reception he received from the citizens 
 induced him on his return to the south, to issue letters- 
 patent granting to the citizens of Edinburgh full per- 
 mission to trade with England, paying no more duties 
 on merchandise than his own subjects ; but his subse- 
 quent exclusion from the throne rendered this privilege 
 unavailing. 
 
 In 1477. James III. gave the citizens a charter ena- 
 bling them to appropriate certain parts of the town for 
 holding the markets, which previously had not been 
 fixed to any precise spot, or limited to any particular 
 days. In 1481, this monarch having excited the dis- 
 satisfaction of his brother, Alexander, Duke of Albany, 
 and others of the nobility, by his inauspicious entertain- 
 ment of favourites, they entered into a confederacy for 
 the removal of those persons by whom he was influenced 
 to the prejudice of the country ; and the king being 
 intimidated by these proceedings, took refuge in the 
 castle of Edinburgh, in which he was detained a prisoner 
 for nearly nine months, while the confederates were ap- 
 pointed regents of the kingdom. But the Duke of Albany, 
 discontented with the conduct of the other regents, and 
 yielding to the importunities of the queen for the libera- 
 tion of her husband, appointed a meeting of certain of 
 his friends at Edinburgh, who, assisted by a body of the 
 citizens, assaulted the castle, and restored the king to 
 liberty. James, thus replaced in the government, in 
 grateful testimony of the loyalty of the citizens, bestowed 
 upon them two charters in 148'2, conferring many valu- 
 able privileges, among which was the appointment of 
 sheriffs having power to hold courts for the trial of crimi- 
 nals, with fines and escheats belonging to their office. 
 The inhabitants were also invested with liberty to make 
 
 laws for the due government of the city, were exempted 
 from payment of the duties on salt, and received a grant 
 of customs and dues on the several articles of merchan- 
 dise in their port of Leith ; and as a perpetual memorial 
 of their loyalty and services, the king removed the seat 
 of government and the royal residence, previously at 
 Perth, to the city of Edinburgh, which he thus made the 
 METROPOLIS of his kingdom. Among other marks of 
 his favour bestowed upon the citizens at this time, was 
 the gift of a standard or banner, to which the craftsmen, 
 not only of Edinburgh, but of all other cities within the 
 realm, were bound to repair for the assistance of the 
 magistrates in defence of their king and of their own 
 rights. This flag is still preserved by the convener of 
 the trades, and on its being displayed in times of emer- 
 gency, all the artisans of the city and surrounding dis- 
 tricts are compelled to assemble, and place themselves at 
 his disposal. 
 
 Events of the Sixteenth Century. 
 
 In 1508, James IV. granted the citizens a charter 
 enabling them to let the common lands designated the 
 Borough-Moor, and the marsh called the Common-Myre, 
 at fee-farm rents. The citizens, on this, immediately 
 proceeded to clear the grounds, and cut down the trees 
 with which they were thickly covered ; and having in 
 this manner procured a vast quantity of timber, the 
 town council, for promoting the sale of it, allowed to all 
 purchasers of a sufficient quantity to new-front their 
 houses the privilege of extending them seven feet into 
 the High-street beyond their former boundaries, on each 
 side. Thus not only was the principal street reduced 
 fourteen feet in width, but the houses previously fronted 
 with stone were now entirely constructed of wood, to the 
 great prejudice of the general appearance of the city. In 
 1513, James, who by the intrigues of France was led 
 into a war with England, in opposition to the counsel of 
 his nobles, mustered an army on the Borough-Moor, and 
 being joined by the citizens under their provost the Earl 
 of Angus, marched into England, and was defeated in 
 the disastrous battle of Flodden- Field, in which the king 
 and most of the Scottish nobility were slain. The royal 
 body, being found after the battle, was carried to Ber- 
 wick-on-Tweed, embalmed, and sent, inclosed in lead, to 
 London, whence it was conveyed to the monastery of 
 Sheen at Richmond for interment. On the news of this 
 calamitous defeat, the town council of Edinburgh issued 
 a proclamation enjoining all the citizens capable of bear- 
 ing arms to assemlole at the Cross, and join the lord pro- 
 vost for the defence of the town against any attempts of 
 the victorious enemy. A guard was raised ; £500 were 
 voted for purchasing arms and ammunition, and such of 
 the inhabitants as had gardens attached to their houses 
 were required, for greater security, to fortify them by the 
 erection of walls. The consternation of the people was 
 aggravated by the prevalence of the plague, which was 
 making dreadful havoc among them. The council, in 
 consideration of the arduous duties devolving upon the 
 provost during this period of war and pestilence, ordered 
 one hundred merks to be added to his annual income ; 
 and to prevent the further ravages of the plague, they 
 directed that all the houses on the Borough-Moor, at 
 that time crowded with infected persons, should be un- 
 roofed, and the walls taken down.
 
 ED I N 
 
 EDI N 
 
 In 1524, Francis Bothwell, lord provost of Edinburgh, 
 having resigned that office according to the king's com- 
 mand, obtained permission to enter a protest that his 
 resignation should in no wise be drawn into a precedent 
 derogatory or prejudicial to the rights and privileges of 
 the corporation. In 1544, Henry VIII. of England, dis- 
 appointed in his efforts to negotiate a marriage between 
 his son. Prince Edward, and the Princess Mary, daugh- 
 ter of James V., sent an array into Scotland under the 
 Earl of Hertford in order to compel the Scots to the 
 proposed alliance ; and the English forces, having landed 
 at Leith, and taken possession of that town unopposed, 
 advanced to Edinburgh, which they pillaged and set fire 
 to, without attempting to reduce the castle. The earl 
 returned with his army to Leith, burnt the place, and 
 afterwards retreated into England ; but the same noble- 
 man (now Duke of Somerset) again entering Scotland, 
 with a more numerous army, in 1547, to force the Scots 
 to acquiesce in the projected union, achieved a victory 
 at the battle of Pinkie, and again plundered Edinburgh. 
 
 Era of the Reformation. 
 
 At the commencement of the Reformation in Scot- 
 land, in 1556, the citizens destroyed the statues of the 
 Virgin Mary and other saints in the church of St. Giles, 
 which produced a mandate from the queen dowager, re- 
 gent of the kingdom, to the lord provost and council to 
 discover the offenders, and deliver them to the Arch- 
 bishop of St. Andrew's, to be dealt with according to the 
 statutes of the Church. In 155S, under apprehension 
 of an invasion from England, the citizens displayed the 
 utmost zeal in support of the government. The mer- 
 chants raised a body of 700 men, well armed and accou- 
 tred, and the craftsmen of the various incorporations, at 
 a meeting in the Tolbooth, resolved to furnish an equal 
 number for the defence of the city ; the town council, 
 also, voted considerable supplies for the assistance of the 
 queen. On the celebration this year of the festival of 
 St. Giles, the tutelar patron of Edinburgh, according to 
 custom, the popish priests and monks, in order to pre- 
 vent any obstruction from the friends of the Reformation, 
 requested the presence of the queen regent at the pro- 
 cession ; but on repairing to the church to place the 
 statue of the saint on the carriage prepared for its recep- 
 tion, they had the mortification to find that it had been 
 removed during the preceding night. To obviate the 
 failure of their purpose, however, a smaller image of the 
 saint was borrowed from the church of the Grey Friars ; 
 but, the queen retiring from the ceremony before the 
 procession had concluded, the populace seized the statue, 
 which they demolished in their rage : the attendants 
 then betook themselves to flight, and through the pru- 
 dent conduct of the magistrates, no further excesses were 
 committed. 
 
 In 1559, the people of Perth having destroyed many 
 of the monasteries in that town and neighbourhood, the 
 queen regent, fearful of similar outrages in Edinburgh, 
 issued a proclamation to the provost and magistrates for 
 the preservation of the sacred edifices and religious houses 
 from violence, to which they paid so much attention that 
 she addressed to them a letter of thanks for their diligent 
 observance of her mandate. To prevent any attempts 
 of the populace, the magistrates ordered all the gates of 
 the city to be closed, with the e.xceptiou of the Nether- 
 376 
 
 bow and 'West-port, at which they placed sufficient 
 guards ; and to obviate all danger from the lords of con- 
 gregation, they sent commissioners to Linlithgow, to 
 negotiate with them for the safety of the churches and 
 monasteries, promising to reserve the former for worship 
 according to the Protestant doctrines, and the latter for 
 seminaries on the principles of the Reformation. In the 
 interim, they posted a guard over the church of St. Giles, 
 and removed the stalls of the choir into the Tolbooth for 
 greater security. On the 29th of June, the lords of con- 
 gregation arrived at Edinburgh, and appointed two com- 
 missioners to attend the council, where it was resolved 
 that as the change was still in progress, the citizens 
 should without molestation exercise which form of reli- 
 gion they might prefer till the 10th of January following. 
 Upon this, the queen regent sent an order to the council 
 to summon the citizens, and make a return of their choice 
 between the two forms of faith. Against such a course 
 the citizens remonstrated by petition to the lords com- 
 missioners, and they in answer declared that they would 
 compel no man to act against the dictates of his con- 
 science. The queen, assisted by a body of French troops, 
 now made every effort for the maintenance of the cor- 
 rupt religion ; and the lords of congregation resolved 
 to collect a body of troops for their defence, in which 
 they were assisted by the council, who raised for them 
 a considerable force, with which they marched to Leith, 
 and summoned the garrison to surrender. On the first 
 show of resistance, however, they fled with precipitation ; 
 several were slain in the pursuit, and so great was the 
 panic after their return that they abandoned the city. 
 But having received a supply of English troops from 
 Queen Elizabeth, and being reinforced with a body of 
 400 of the citizens, they again assaulted the town of 
 Leith, were completely successful in their object, and com- 
 pelled the French auxiliaries to quit the country. 
 
 Occurrences connected with Mary, Queen of 
 Scots. 
 
 Upon the death of the queen regent in 1560, the lords 
 of congregation became masters of the kingdom ; and in 
 a treaty between them and the ambassadors of Francis 
 and Mary, it was stipulated that a parliament should be 
 held in Edinburgh, which event took place in the follow- 
 ing August : at this parliament it was enacted that the 
 jurisdiction of the pope in Scotland should be abolished, 
 and the confession of faith drawn up by the General As- 
 sembly established. The result of this meeting excited 
 the strongest feelings of indignation in the mind of Mary, 
 who refused to ratify the proceedings, and on the 19th 
 of August, 1561, arrived at Leith from France to take 
 possession of the throne. On the 1st of September she 
 made her public entry into Edinburgh, and was received 
 with the most enthusiastic acclamations of the citizens, 
 who testified their loyalty and attachment by every de- 
 monstration of joy ; but on the Sunday after her arrival, 
 the populace raised a tumult, and were with difficulty 
 restramed by the magistrates from interrupting the per- 
 formance of divine service at the chapel of Holyrood 
 House, and offering violence to the priest, who was offi- 
 ciating according to the Romish ritual. The magistrates 
 issued a proclamation against papists, and the queen 
 addressed to them a letter complaining of the insult thus 
 offered to her religion ; but this produced on their part
 
 ED I N 
 
 EDIN 
 
 only a republication of the edict in severer terms, enjoin- 
 ing all Roman Catholics to leave the town under heavy 
 penalties, which so exasperated the queen that she issued 
 a mandate to the lord provost and council to divest the 
 magistrates of their office, and elect others in their place, 
 with which the council complied. 
 
 The marriage of the queen with Lord Darnley, who 
 had the day previously been proclaimed king at the mar- 
 ket-cross, was solemnized in the chapel of the palace of 
 Holyrood House, on the 27 th of July, 1565 ; and in the 
 following year the queen was delivered of a son, after- 
 wards James VI. of Scotland, who, on the demise of 
 Elizabeth, succeeded to the crown of England by the 
 title of James 1. The assassination of David Rizzio, 
 secretary to the queen, which had taken place in the 
 palace not long before this birth of an heir, under the 
 personal superintendence of Lord Darnley, had tended 
 greatly to alienate the affections of the queen ; and the 
 earl soon after left the court, and retired to Glasgow. 
 Labouring under severe indisposition, however, he was 
 here visited by the queen, who tended him during his 
 illness, and brought him back with her to Edinburgh ; 
 and that he might not be disturbed by the inevitable 
 tumult of the palace, she fitted up a house for his recep- 
 tion at a place ia the vicinity, called the Kirk of Field, 
 where for several nights she slept in an apartment under- 
 neath his chamber. On the 9th of February, 1567, the 
 queen, having to preside at the marriage of one of her 
 household, passed the night in the palace ; and about 
 two o'clock on the following morning, the house in W'hich 
 Lord Darnley lay was blown up by gunpowder, and his 
 body was found at some distance in an adjoining field, 
 without any apparent marks of contusion or violence. 
 The Earl of Bothwell, who was strongly suspected of 
 the murder of Darnley, was publicly charged with that 
 crime by the Earl of Lennox, who wrote to the queen 
 imploring speedy justice on the murderer of his son ; but 
 in a court soon afterwards held, he was acquitted. On 
 the return of the queen from Stirling, where she had 
 been visiting her infant son, she was waylaid by Both- 
 well at the head of a body of 800 horse, and forcibly 
 conveyed to Dunbar, at which place she was detained 
 for some time by the earl. Bothwell, however, subse- 
 quently obtained a pardon for this act of violence and 
 for ail other crimes, and, having procured a divorce from 
 his wife, sister of the Earl of Huntly, was married to the 
 queen, in Holyrood House, on the 15th of May. 
 
 This fatal alliance excited the indignation of the chief 
 nobility, who formed an association for the protection of 
 the prince, and the punishment of his father's murderers. 
 Bothwell and the queen, alarmed at the insurrection, fled 
 from Holyrood, and took refuge in the castle of Borth- 
 wick, on the investment of which by Lord Hume they 
 eflfected their escape to Dunbar. The confederate lords, 
 with a force of 3000 men, took possession of Edinburgh ; 
 and Bothwell hearing that they had sustained some dis- 
 asters, quitted the fortress of Dunbar, and advanced to 
 encounter them in the field. The armies met at Carberry 
 Hill, about six miles from the city ; but Mary, mistrust- 
 ing the fidelity of her own troops, whom she knew to be 
 unfavourable to her cause, and having no other resource, 
 held a conference with Kirkaldy of Grange, and on re- 
 ceiving some general promises of protection, placed her- 
 self in the hands of the confederates, by whom she was 
 conducted to Edinburgh amidst the insults of the popu- 
 VoL. L— 377 
 
 lace. During the queen's conference with Kirkaldy, 
 Bothwell fled unattended to Dunbar, and fitting out a 
 few small vessels, sailed for the Orkneys, where for a 
 time he subsisted by piracy ; but being pursued by Kirk- 
 aldy, he effected his escape in an open boat, and obtained 
 a passage to Denmark, where he was thrown into prison, 
 and died miserably about ten years after. Several of his 
 servants were made prisoners, and having revealed all 
 the circumstances of the murder of Darnley, were pu 
 nished for the crime. The queen was detained as a pri- 
 soner in the house of the lord provost, and subjected to 
 every reproach from the populace, who on her appearance 
 at the window displayed a banner bearing the effigy of 
 her murdered husband, with that of the infant prince by 
 his side, and the legend " Judge, and revenge my cause, 
 O Lord." But, the queen appealing to the compassion 
 of the citizens, it is said they unfurled the standard given 
 to them by James HL, and, raising a sufficient force, 
 compelled her persecutors to restore her to the palace of 
 Holyrood ; from which, however, she was on the follow- 
 ing day conveyed to Lochleven Castle. A council of 
 regency was now appointed, and a deputation waited 
 upon the captive queen in the castle, requiring her to 
 sign an abdication in favour of the infant prince, who 
 was proclaimed king, and soon after crowned at Stirling, 
 the Earl of Morton taking the coronation oath in his 
 name. She also agreed to make the Earl of Murray 
 regent, and to nominate a council to administer the go- 
 vernment till he should arrive from the continent, the 
 council to consist of the Earls of Lennox, Argyll, Atholl, 
 and Morton, with others, and to have power to continue 
 regents in the event of Murray's refusal. 
 
 The Earl of Murray, who had been thus appointed 
 regent, shortly returned from France, and paid a visit 
 to the queen at Lochleven. He obtained possession of 
 the castle of Edinburgh, at that time held by a partisan 
 of Bothwell's, and of which he created Sir WiUiam 
 Kirkaldy governor; but Sir WiUiam, in 1570, finding 
 to what severities the queen was subjected, embraced 
 her cause, and the city, alternately held by both parties, 
 became for some time the scene of confusion and civil 
 war. The lords of the regency applied for aid to Eliza- 
 beth of England, and that queen sent to their assistance 
 1000 infantry and 300 cavalry, under the command of 
 Sir William Drury. This commander, on his arrival at 
 Leith, where the Scottish army was encamped, sum- 
 moned the governor to surrender the castle of Edin- 
 burgh ; but a party who had been driven from the city, 
 assembling in a hostile manner, put an end to the treaty, 
 and the war was carried on with the most ferocious 
 barbarity. To prevent the city from being taken by 
 surprise, a strong barrier was erected by the queen's 
 troops at the Netherbow, and every precaution was 
 adopted for its security ; the war continued to rage with 
 inveterate fury, and such was the rancour that those 
 who were made prisoners, on either side, w^ere led to 
 immediate execution. A truce was at length proposed 
 and agreed upon by the leaders ; but Kirkaldy refusing 
 to concur. Sir William Drury, who had retreated into 
 England, returned with a more formidable force, and 
 ultimately compelled the castle to surrender. During 
 this period the city suffered greatly, being exposed on 
 the one hand to the destructive firing from the battery of 
 the castle, and on the other to the devastations of the 
 contending parties. 
 
 3 C
 
 EDIN 
 
 ED IN 
 
 Occurrences connected with James VI. 
 
 On the conclusion of the war, the Earl of Morton 
 
 was established in the regency ; but becoming odious 
 from the unpopularity of his conduct, he resigned the 
 office to the young king, James VI., and the castle, 
 which for some time held out under his brother, even- 
 tually capitulated. Morton, however, afterwards re- 
 suming his authority, repaired to Stirling, and obtained 
 the government of the castle there, and the custody of 
 the royal person. On this, the citizens of Edinburgh, 
 anxious for the king's safety, raised an armed force, and 
 drew out the trained bands, for the service of the privy 
 council ; James applied to the council of Edinburgh for 
 a guard of 100 men to protect his person, and for some 
 troops to convey the Earl of Morton to Dunbar Castle, 
 and they not only complied with this, but gave an addi- 
 tional 100 men to guard the palace of Holyrood House. 
 The king held a parliament at Edinburgh in 1579 ; and 
 on his removal subsequently from Stirling, the citizens 
 received him with joyful acclamations, and escorted him 
 to Holyrood with a guard of 2000 horsemen ; after 
 which he convened a parliament in the Tolbooth : the 
 Earl of Morton, late regent, was accused of being privy 
 to the murder of Lord Darnley, and on being brought 
 to trial in 15S0, he was found guilty, and put to death. 
 In 1.5S7, the king, with a view to reconcile the nobles 
 of the realm, whom civil war had rent into adverse fac- 
 tions, gave a royal banquet at Holyrood House, and 
 thence conducted his hostile guests to the Cross, where 
 they were entertained by the magistrates of the city, and 
 pledged each other in goblets of wine. 
 
 The magistrates, on the approach of the Spanish Ar- 
 mada towards the coast, armed the citizens to prevent 
 the landing of its troops, and raised a body of 300 men 
 for the defence of Edinburgh ; and just before the mar- 
 riage of James with the Princess Anne of Denmark, 
 they fitted out a well-equipped vessel to Denmark, to 
 bring home the king and his royal bride, on whose ar- 
 rival at Leith they escorted the princess to her palace, 
 and afterwards to the church of St. Giles, and, on the 
 solemnization of her marriage, presented her with a 
 very valuable jewel. In 1591, Stuart, Earl of Bothwell, 
 made an attempt to seize the person of the king ; but 
 his design was frustrated by the vigilance and loyalty of 
 the magistrates, and the earl and eight of his confede- 
 rates were publicly executed. On the birth of the prince 
 Henry, the citizens sent to the king, at Stirling, a gift 
 of ten tuns of wine, and a deputation of 100 of the chief 
 inhabitants to assist at the baptism. An attempt of 
 James in 1596 to control the language of the pulpits 
 exasperated both the clergy and the citizens ; a tumult 
 arose, in which the person of the king was insulted ; and 
 on his subsequent introduction of theatrical perform- 
 ances, a meeting of the presbytery was convened, and a 
 decree passed against the toleration of them, which, how- 
 ever, on the presbytery being called before the privy coun- 
 cil, they were compelled to retract. 
 
 On the return of the popish lords who had been par- 
 doned by the crown, the clergy held a convocation of 
 their most influential ministers at Edinburgh, to which 
 they gave the title of standing council of the 
 church ; and being cited before the privy council of 
 the state for a contemptuous disregard of the roval 
 378 
 
 authority, the minister of St. Andrew's disavowed all 
 allegiance to the government, and called upon the peo- 
 ple to support the clergy in their opposition. The king 
 issued a proclamation enjoining the new council to leave 
 Edinburgh within twenty-four hours ; but they refused 
 to obey it, and in their sermons and prayers invited the 
 nobles of the land to countenance their resistance to the 
 royal decree. They drew up a petition, couched in the 
 most opprobrious language, which the king declined to 
 receive ; and the populace rushed in a body to assault 
 the Tolbooth, in which the king, the judges, and the 
 chief officers of state were assembled. This attempt, 
 however, was frustrated by the loyalty and firmness of 
 one of the deacons, who, attended by his corporation, 
 intercepted their purpose ; and the mob, in some degree 
 appeased by the assurances of the lord provost that the 
 king would accept any petition respectfully worded, and 
 peaceably presented, at length dispersed, and James re- 
 turned unmolested to the palace. On the following day, 
 the king and the privy council left for Linlithgow, and 
 a proclamation was published stating that, in conse- 
 quence of the late treasonable outrage, in which many 
 citizens, instigated by the ministers, had taken part, 
 the crown deemed the city of Edinburgh unworthy to 
 continue as the seat of government, unfit for the residence 
 of the court, and for the administration of justice. The 
 state therefore required the College of Justice, the inferior 
 judges, and the barons to retire from Edinburgh, and 
 not to return without the king's special licence. The 
 citizens would gladly have conciliated the royal favour, 
 but the ministers were resolved to persevere. These 
 proclaimed a fast, and assailed the king from their pul- 
 pits with the most virulent reproaches, declaring that 
 the people might lawfully take the sword out of his 
 hands ; they also addressed a letter to Lord Hamilton, 
 intreating him to repair to Edinburgh, place himself at 
 their head, and be the leader of those who had armed 
 themselves in support of the Church. Hamilton, how- 
 ever, instead of complying with their request, showed 
 the letter to the king, who issued his mandate to the 
 magistrates of Edinburgh, for the incarceration of the 
 ministers ; but having intimation of the intended pro- 
 ceedings, they contrived to effect their escape. 
 
 A deputation of the citizens now waited upon James 
 at Linlithgow, to endeavour to appease his resentment j 
 but in vain. The king went the following day to Leith, 
 and thence to Edinburgh, the keys of which were ten- 
 dered to him by one of his officers of state, and the 
 charge of the city was committed to the Earl of Mar 
 and the Lords Seaton and Ochiltree ; the citizens were 
 ordered to keep within their houses ; the streets were 
 lined with files of the royal guards, between which the 
 king passed to the Tolbooth, and a convention of the 
 states was held. Before this assembly the magistrates 
 of the city humbled themselves with submissive re- 
 verence. They made the most solemn protestations of 
 loyalty, and offered a guarantee that none of the minis- 
 ters should be permitted to resume their charges, nor 
 any others be admitted to the pastoral office, without 
 the royal approbation. They also proposed to present 
 to the king, and to the lords of the council, a list of all 
 the officers of the corporation for their approval before 
 they were appointed ; and gave every assurance of their 
 freedom from any participation in the tumult, and of 
 their resolution to discover and bring to justice its
 
 EDIN 
 
 EDIN 
 
 authors and abettors. But all these proffers were vain : 
 the convention of the states pronounced the insurrection 
 to be high treason, and that the city should be subjected 
 to all the penalties ; it was even proposed that the place 
 should be rased to its foundations, and that a pillar 
 should be erected on the site as a lasting monument of 
 its disgrace. The interposition of Elizabeth obtained 
 from the king a mitigation of the sentence, but the town 
 council were notwithstanding ordered, as representatives 
 of the city, to enter themselves in ward in the town of 
 Perth ; the trial commenced on the 1st of March, when, 
 one of the council neglecting to appear, the cause was 
 decided, the community declared rebels, and their re- 
 venues escheated to the crown. Edinburgh continued 
 for some time in a state of anarchy, but at length the 
 citizens submitted themselves entirely to the king's 
 mercy, and on the supplication of the magistrates and 
 council, they were to a certain extent relieved from the 
 forfeiture, and restored to their wonted privileges. In 
 1599, the convention of the states assembled at Edin- 
 burgh on the lOt.h of December, and ordained that the 
 first day of the year, which had previously been reckoned 
 the 25th of March, should be thenceforth the 1st of Ja- 
 nuary. 
 
 Events of the Seventeenth Century. 
 
 In 1603, James VI., being on the death of Elizabeth 
 successor to the crown of England, took leave of the 
 citizens in the church of St. Giles, and addressing them 
 after the sermon, assured them of his future remem- 
 brance and protection ; and on the 5th of April he de- 
 parted for London, whither he was followed on the 1st 
 June by the queen and royal family. In 1609, he 
 granted to the town council of Edinburgh a duty of £4 
 Scotch on every tun of wine sold within the city, and 
 ordered that a sword should be borne before the lord 
 provost, and that the magistrates should in pubhc wear 
 gowns of state. The king, who on his departure had 
 promised to visit his native dominions every three years, 
 found no opportunity of doing so till the year 16 17. 
 when, on the l6th of May, he arrived at Edinburgh, 
 and was received with every demonstration of joyful 
 welcome by the provost and magistrates, who enter- 
 tained him with a sumptuous banquet, and presented 
 him with 10,000 raerks in a silver basin. After the 
 death of this monarch, his son and successor, Charles, 
 paid a visit to Edinburgh in 1633, for the purpose of 
 being crowned King of Scotland, which ceremony was 
 performed on the ISth June in the chapel royal of Holy- 
 rood, with unusual splendour. Two days afterwards, 
 the king convened his first parliament in the Tolbooth, 
 and confirmed the authority of the College of Justice, 
 the privileges of the royal burghs, and the rights of the 
 citizens ; and on the 18th of July he left the city on his 
 return to England, halting for a night at Dalkeith, at 
 Seaton, and at Innerwick, on his route. Charles was 
 accompanied in this visit by Archbishop Laud, who was 
 sworn a privy councillor of Scotland at Holyrood House, 
 and preached several times in the chapel royal ; and while 
 here the king erected the bishopric of Edinburgh. 
 
 During the time that he was in Scotland, the people 
 
 testified the most loyal attachment to their sovereign ; 
 
 but great discontents broke out soon after his departure, 
 
 and the subsequent introduction of the English liturgy 
 
 379 
 
 into the Church of Scotland, in 1637, exasperated these 
 discontents into open rebellion. On the attempt to 
 read the liturgy in St. Giles's church, the utmost con- 
 fusion was excited ; missiles were thrown at the head of 
 the dean while performing the service, and at Dr. Lind- 
 say, Bishop of Edinburgh, who had ascended the pulpit 
 in the hope of appeasing the tumultuous uproar ; a mob 
 collected in the streets, and hurled stones at the bishop 
 while proceeding home in his carriage with the lord 
 privy seal, and next day the Earl of 'Traquair and the 
 Bishop of Galloway escaped with difficulty from the 
 populace. The National Covenant was renewed and sub- 
 scribed the following year by great numbers of the nobi- 
 lity and gentry, and by the inhabitants generally ; while 
 copies of it were circulated throughout the country. 
 The king, alarmed at these proceedings, commissioned 
 the Marquess of Hamilton to negotiate with the Scots, 
 many of whom were already in arms for the support of 
 the Covenant ; and when the Marquess arrived in Scot- 
 land he found it in a state of rebellion. The town coun- 
 cil of Edinburgh took part with the Covenanters, and 
 raised a body of 500 men as a reinforcement of their 
 army, commanded by General Leslie, who assaulted 
 the castle, at that time garrisoned by a body of troops 
 under General Ruthven, and which ultimately surren- 
 dered to the Covenanters. The forces under Leslie 
 afterwards made themselves masters of Dalkeith House, 
 in which were considerable supplies of military stores ; 
 and, removing these into the castle, they erected some 
 fortifications at Leith, sent emissaries to England to 
 enlist the nonconformists in their cause, also applied to 
 Cardinal Richelieu for immediate aid, and levied large 
 contributions, by loan, for carrying on the war. Charles 
 sent the Duke of Hamilton with a fleet of twenty ships 
 and 5000 land forces, to reduce Edinburgh and Leith to 
 obedience; but on the arrival of this force in the Firth 
 of Forth, a treaty took place, according to the terms of 
 which, the castle and other garrisons being deUvered to 
 Hamilton, the troops were withdrawn. 
 
 In 1641, the king made a second visit to Edinburgh, 
 where he assembled a parliament, in which a great num- 
 ber of the nobility were excluded from their privilege 
 of voting, because they refused to subscribe the Cove- 
 nant. The Earl of Argyll, the head of the Covenanters, 
 was created a marquess ; Leslie, who had commanded 
 the Covenanting army, was made Earl of Leven, and 
 appointed governor of the castle, and all the tried and 
 faithful friends of the king were neglected, or super- 
 seded in their offices by the most inveterate of his 
 enemies, in the hope of conciliation, though the Cove- 
 nanters, notwithstanding all these concessions, still 
 remained in arms, and added daily to the number of 
 their troops. Charles left Edinburgh on the l6th of 
 November, and soon after his return to England, which 
 he found embroiled in civil war, gained some advan- 
 tages over the parliamentarian leaders. These, in 1643, 
 applied to the Scots for assistance ; the Scottish par- 
 haincnt voted a supply of 18,000 foot, '2000 horse, and 
 1000 dragoons, and the magistrates, notwithstanding 
 they had received a letter from the king reminding 
 them of his former favours, raised a regiment of 1'200 
 foot for the service of his enemies. After the defeat of 
 the Covenanters' army in 1645 by the Marquess of 
 Montrose, the city was in great danger ; the plague 
 was raging within its walls, and so much had its popu- 
 
 3 C 2
 
 ED I N 
 
 ED I N 
 
 lation been reduced by the ravages of war and pesti- 
 lence, that, iu case of assault, scarcely a hundred men 
 could have been mustered in its defence. Montrose 
 was prevented from entering by the plague alone, and 
 addressed a letter to the magistrates requiring them to 
 liberate such of the royalists as they held prisoners. 
 With this, in their present situation, they thought it 
 prudent to comply ; but the king having at that time 
 arrived at Newcastle-upon-Tyne with the Scottish army, 
 to whose protection he had resigned himself, a treaty 
 was opened with the English parliament, to which the 
 citizens of Edinburgh sent a deputation, and Charles 
 was eventually given up to the English commissioners, 
 in 1647. 
 
 From 1650 to I'OO. 
 
 The Marquess of Montrose, who, after the execution 
 of the king in 1649, was appointed by Charles II. his 
 captain-general in Scotland, landed in 1650 with a force 
 of 500 foreigners, chiefly Germans, hoping to obtain 
 from the Covenanters more reasonable terms for restor- 
 ing the king to the throne ; but being defeated by the 
 army of Gen. David Leslie, he assumed the disguise of 
 a peasant, and intrusting his person to the protection of 
 a perfidious friend, was betrayed to his enemies, and 
 conveyed to Edinburgh amidst the most degrading and 
 opprobrious insults. He was brought before the parlia- 
 ment for trial, and being condemned, was publicly exe- 
 cuted in pursuance of his sentence with every demonstra- 
 tion of wanton barbarity ; the execution took place at the 
 Cross on the 21st May, and this distinguished noble- 
 man exhibited on the occasion his customary fortitude. 
 The English parliament, fearing an accommodation be- 
 tween Charles II., who had for that purpose landed from 
 Holland, and the Scottish commissioners, who were 
 then treating with him for his restoration, now sent 
 Cromwell with an army of 16,000 men into Scotland, 
 in order to check the negotiation. Cromwell encamped 
 his troops on the Pentland hills, within a few miles of 
 Edinburgh ; the Scots, commanded by Gen. Leslie, were 
 drawn up at Corstorphine. After some skirmishing, 
 Cromwell withdrew to Dunbar, where in a little time he 
 was so straitened for want of provisions that he pur- 
 posed sending his infantry and artillery by sea into 
 England, and effecting his retreat by forcing his way 
 with his cavalry through the forces of Leslie, which had 
 taken post between Dunbar and Berwick. Leslie, how- 
 ever, being induced to descend into the plain, and give 
 battle to the parliamentarians, an engagement took place 
 in which his army was totally routed ; and Cromwell, 
 pursuing his advantage, took possession of Edinburgh 
 and Leith, and completed the fortifications which the 
 Scots had begun and left unfinished. The lord provost 
 and magistrates, on the news of the defeat, left the city, 
 and fled to Stirling. The principal inhabitants, however, 
 chose thirty of their number to preserve the peace, and 
 to treat with Cromwell; and upon the arrival of the 
 English commissioners at Dalkeith, for settling disputes, 
 they sent a deputation, soliciting the restitution of their 
 magistracy, which was granted, accompanied by an order 
 to elect two representatives to meet the commissioners, 
 and assist in the arrangement of public affairs. 
 
 On the restoration of Charles II., the citizens pre- 
 sented the king with the sum of £1000 as a testimony 
 380 
 
 of their loyalty, which he acknowledged by granting 
 them the privilege of levying one-third of a penny on 
 every pint of ale, and two-pence on every pint of wine 
 consumed in the city. But the subsequent efforts of 
 that monarch to re-establish episcopacy, and introduce 
 the English liturgy, exasperated their feelings ; and the 
 suppression of conventicles by military force excited in 
 their minds the most determined opposition. The west- 
 ern counties rose in arms, surprised a party of the royal 
 forces at Dumfries, and marched thence to Edinburgh, 
 professing allegiance to the crown, but demanding the 
 re-establishment of the Presbyterian form of worship, 
 and the restoration of their former ministers. On this 
 insurrection, the city was put into a state of defence : the 
 gates were closed ; the magistrates ordered all the citi- 
 zens who had horses to assemble, and hold themselves 
 in readiness to act for the preservation of order ; the 
 College of Justice formed themselves into a company, 
 and were supplied with arras for the security of the 
 government. By these means the insurgents were soon 
 subdued ; about fifty were killed, and 150 taken prison- 
 ers. But the more vigorous were the measures adopted 
 for the support of episcopacy, the more the Covenanters 
 increased : the preachers openly called upon the people 
 to throw off their allegiance ; the Archbishop of St. An- 
 drew's was assassinated near St. Andrew's in his carriage, 
 and every prospect of conciliation was hopeless. In this 
 state of excitement, the magistrates of the city took still 
 further precautions for its safety ; the trained bands 
 joined the forces of the crown, and despatches were for- 
 warded to London for assistance. The Duke of Mon- 
 mouth was sent to Scotland with some troops of cavalry, 
 being invested with the chief command ; and a battle 
 took place at Bothwell-Bridge, in which 700 of the Co- 
 venanters were killed, and several were made prisoners 
 and sent to Edinburgh, where two of the most seditious 
 preachers were hanged. 
 
 James, afterwards James II. of England and VII. of 
 Scotland, while he was Duke of York visited Edinburgh, 
 where he was received with great pomp by the lord pro- 
 vost and town council, who entertained him with a ban- 
 quet in the parliament-house. During his residence 
 here he .sought to promote the trade of the city, and, by 
 his conciliating behaviour and fashionable entertain- 
 ments, to render himself popular in Scotland ; and 
 though his partiality to the Church of Rome, and his 
 encouragement of the drama and other amusements, 
 had made him odious to the citizens generally, yet on 
 his accession to the throne, the magistrates presented to 
 him a loyal address. A parliament was shortly after 
 held in Edinburgh, which acknowledged his supreme 
 authority, and declared that the whole force of the 
 country, from the age of sixteen to sixty, should be at 
 his disposal ; but the open encouragement given to the 
 celebration of the mass soon excited a tumult, in the 
 quelling of which the king's guards were brought from 
 the castle, and, firing upon the mob, killed two men and 
 a woman. Several of the most active of the insurgents 
 were afterwards hanged at the Cross ; and so great was 
 the zeal of the dominant party for the re-establishment 
 of the Roman Catholic faith, that a Popish college in 
 the palace of Holyrood House printed and circulated 
 hand-bills inviting all persons to send their children to 
 be educated in the principles of that religion gratui- 
 tously.
 
 ED I N 
 
 ED I N 
 
 On intelligence arriving, however, of the landing of 
 the Prince of Orange, the regular troops were with- 
 drawn for the reinforcement of the king's army, and 
 the Presbyterians flocked to Edinburgh in great num- 
 bers. The greatest severities were exercised against the 
 Papists, Episcopalians, and the adherents of the exiled 
 monarch ; the Earl of Perth, who was chancellor, aban- 
 doned the country, and the government fell entirely 
 into the hands of the friends of the Revolution. A mob 
 assembled in the city; the drums beat to arms, and the 
 inhabitants proceeded to demolish the royal chapel in 
 Holy rood House, but were opposed by a party of 100 
 men, who still adhered to James, and who, by firing 
 upon them, put the party to flight. The people soon 
 returned, however, in greater numbers, headed by the 
 magistrates, who had obtained a warrant from the privy 
 council, and accompanied by the trained bands and 
 herald-at-arms. They forthwith summoned the follow- 
 ers of James to surrender, and after having defeated 
 their opponents with considerable loss, proceeded to the 
 royal chapel and the private chapel, which they stripped 
 of all their ornaments ; nearly demolished the college of 
 the Jesuits ; and plundered the houses of many of the 
 Roman Catholics. The town council tendered their 
 services to the Prince of Orange ; and the Marquess of 
 Atholl, who, after the flight of the chancellor, had as- 
 sumed the reins of government, held a convention of 
 estates at Edinburgh. This body gave its allegiance to 
 the government of William and Mary ; appointed a 
 new election of the city magistrates and council, by poll 
 of the burgesses, in St. Giles' church ; ejected several 
 ministers who refused to pray for the new sovereigns, 
 and finally re-established the Presbyterian form of wor- 
 ship. The Duke of Hamilton and other friends of the 
 Revolution quartered several companies of infantry in 
 the city ; but the castle was still retained for James by 
 its governor the Duke of Gordon, and the Lords Bal- 
 carres and Dundee also stood firm to the interests of the 
 exiled monarch. The castle, however, being but ill sup- 
 plied with provisions, was soon compelled to surrender ; 
 and the adherents of the Roman Catholic party were 
 confined in the Tolbooth, where several of them were 
 detained for two or three years, and subjected to the 
 severest privations. 
 
 In 1695, a company for trading to Africa and the 
 East Indies was incorporated by act of parliament, with 
 very considerable privileges; a capital of £400,000 was 
 quickly raised, and in the following year six ships of 
 large burthen sailed from the Firth of Forth. The in- 
 telligence of their having effected a settlement on the 
 Isthmus of Darien arrived on the 2.5th of March, 1699, 
 and the event was celebrated by public rejoicings, and 
 by thanksgivings in the several churches of the city ; 
 but the sanguine hopes thus excited were not of long 
 continuance. The colonists, after one or two fruitless 
 attempts by the Spaniards, were ultimately driven from 
 the settlement ; and on the news of this arriving, the 
 citizens were so much excited by rage and disappoint- 
 ment that they broke out into the most wanton excesses, 
 and, imputing their failure to the jealousy of the Eng- 
 lish merchants, proceeded to such acts of tumult and 
 outrage that the commissioners and officers of state 
 found it prudent to retire from the city lest they should 
 fall victims to the popular fury. These disturbances 
 occurred in the course of the year I70O. 
 381 
 
 Events of the Eighteenth Century. 
 
 On the accession of Queen Anne, the citizens were 
 still more exasperated by the seizure of one of the ships 
 belonging to the African Company, which had been 
 taken in the river Thames ; and upon their solicitation 
 to the English ministry for its restoration being dis- 
 regarded, they seized, by way of reprisal, a ship belong- 
 ing to the English East India Company, which had 
 anchored in the Forth. Captain Green the commander, 
 and part of the crew, were accused of piracy; and being, 
 upon slight evidence, convicted of having plundered a 
 Scottish vessel in the Indies, they were sentenced to 
 be hanged. On the day fixed for their execution, the 
 populace surrounded the prison and the parliament- 
 house, in which latter the privy council, assisted by the 
 magistrates, were deliberating about the expediency of 
 extending the royal mercy to the captain and his men. 
 The lord chancellor, on his way from the council to his 
 house, was dragged from his carriage by the populace, 
 and only rescued by the timely interposition of his 
 friends ; and so highly were the people incensed at the 
 idea of a reprieve, that an order was given to execute 
 the prisoners without delay. On the promulgation of the 
 Articles of the Union of the two kingdoms in 1707, the 
 mob attacked the parliament-house, insulted the Duke of 
 Queensberry, the chief commissioner, and gave vent to 
 the most violent indignation. They beset the house of 
 the lord provost, Sir Patrick Johnston, a friend to the 
 Union, who narrowly escaped their fury ; and so greatly 
 did the numbers of the mob increase, that, before night, 
 they made themselves entire masters of the city. Their 
 first purpose was to blockade the gates, to prevent which 
 the commissioners ordered a body of soldiers to take 
 possession of the Netherbow, and afterwards, with the 
 concurrence of the provost, stationed a battalion of 
 guards in the Parliament-square. Such, indeed, was 
 the opposition to the Union that all the military of the 
 surrounding districts were concentrated at Edinburgh, 
 and three regiments of infantry were constantly on duty 
 in the city ; but the Articles were at length agreed 
 upon, and ultimately signed by the contracting parties, 
 in an obscure cellar under a house in the High'Street, 
 opposite the Tron church, long after occupied as a 
 tavern and coach-office. The Duke of Queensberry 
 returned, with the document thus reluctantly obtained, 
 to London ; and several of its chief supporters quitted 
 the city, deeming it unsafe to remain. The ancient 
 regalia of the kingdom were, on the completion of the 
 act of Union, deposited in the crown-room in the castle, 
 on the 26th of March, 1*07 ; but it was for a long time 
 generally supposed that they had been conveyed to 
 London, and deposited in the Tower ; and this opinion 
 was the more confirmed by the exhibition there of a 
 crown which the keeper of the jewel-office invariably 
 described as the royal crown of Scotland. 
 
 The discontents of the people induced the Pretender 
 to make an effort to regain the throne, and a French 
 fleet soon after appeared in the Firth of Forth for the 
 invasion of Scotland. The Earl of Leven, at that time 
 commander of the forces, conveyed information of the 
 event to the provost of Edinburgh, who, with the ma- 
 gistrates and the several incorporations, manifested their 
 loyalty to the existing dynasty by raising a body of
 
 EDIN 
 
 ED I N 
 
 1200 men to serve under the earl. But their services 
 were rendered unnecessary by the vigilance and activity 
 of Sir George Byng, who, pursuing the fleet, drove them 
 from the coast, and freed the country from the danger 
 with which it had been threatened ; and the magistrates 
 testified .their gratitude for this important service by 
 presenting Sir George and the principal officers with 
 the freedom of the city. On the breaking out of the 
 rebellion in 1715, the council provided for the security 
 of Edinburgh by repairing and fortifying the walls and 
 gates, augmenting the town-guard, arming the trained 
 bands, raising a body of 400 men, well equipped, to be 
 maintained at the city's expense, and by fitting out 
 several vessels to assist the king's ships. The forces of 
 the Earl of Mar made an attempt to surprise the castle, 
 in which they were frustrated by the vigilance of the 
 garrison. About 1500 also of the rebel army, under 
 Brigadier Mc Intosh, contrived to cross the Forth, and 
 land in East Lothian, whence they marched to Edin- 
 burgh ; but the city was too well guarded to afford 
 them any hope of entering it, and they therefore re- 
 moved to Leith, and took possession of the Citadel, 
 which they fortified. The Duke of Argyll advanced 
 with his forces to dislodge them, but, being unprovided 
 with artillery, withdrew, threatening to return with a 
 reinforcement : during his absence, however, they eva- 
 cuated Leith ; and, 6000 troops arriving from Holland 
 to the assistance of the government, the rebellion lan- 
 guished, and tranquillity was soon restored. In 17^5, 
 a destructive fire occurred in the Lawnmarket, which 
 burned with so much rapidity that many houses in the 
 city, with all their efifects, were destroyed; a subscrip- 
 tion was opened for the relief of the sufferers, and 
 nearly £1000 were obtained. About this time, in con- 
 sideration of the arduous duties devolving on the pro- 
 vost, an addition of £300 per annum was voted for de- 
 fraying his expenses. 
 
 In 1736, the execution of a smuggler in the Grass- 
 market excited a tumult, on which occasion Porteous, 
 captain of the guard, ordered his men to fire on the 
 populace, when six men were killed, and eleven wounded. 
 For this act, Porteous was prosecuted, and convicted of 
 murder by the unanimous verdict of the jury ; but Queen 
 Caroline, acting as regent in the absence of George I. 
 in Hanover, with much reason granted him a reprieve. 
 This so exasperated the people that they assembled in 
 great numbers on the night previous to the day originally 
 fixed for the execution, surprised and disarmed the town- 
 guard, blockaded the gates of the city to prevent the 
 entrance of troops quartered in the suburbs, and pro- 
 ceeded to the prison, liberating all the prisoners with 
 the exception of Porteous. Him they led to the Grass- 
 market by torch-light ; and after allowing an acquaint- 
 ance to receive what property he had, they conducted 
 him to the spot where the six men had been killed, re- 
 proached him with his inhuman conduct, hanged him, 
 and then dispersed without committing any further out- 
 rage. To punish this insult to the government, the lord 
 provost was committed to prison, and, after three weeks' 
 confinement, admitted to bail, and ordered to appear, 
 with four of the bailies, at the bar of the house of lords, 
 in London, where three of the lords justiciary were also 
 commanded to attend. A bill was brought in for dis- 
 qualifying the provost from holding any office of magis- 
 tracy in the city of Edinburgh or any other part of 
 382 
 
 Great Britain, and for confining him in close custody for 
 one year; for abolishing the town-guard, and taking 
 down the gates of the Netherbow. All these enact- 
 ments, however, were afterwards commuted for a fine of 
 £2000 to be paid by the city to the widow of Captain 
 Porteous. In the year 1740, there was a great dearth 
 of provisions in Edinburgh and the vicinity, and the 
 magistrates had recourse to every expedient for the re- 
 lief of the prevailing distress : large public and private 
 contributions were raised ; the banks volunteered loans 
 of money without interest to the magistrates, for sup- 
 plying food at moderate prices to the poor, and by these 
 means the calamity was greatly alleviated. 
 
 Events of 1745. 
 
 In 1745, the council, apprised by letter from one of 
 the secretaries of state, that the eldest son of the Pre- 
 tender meditated an invasion of the kingdom, took every 
 precaution to meet the threatened danger, and provide 
 for the security of the city. The town-guard was aug- 
 mented to 126 men, the trained bands kept in constant 
 readiness to act, and a body of 1000 men was raised to 
 serve under the lord provost and council ; the walls were 
 repaired, the fortifications put into a proper state of 
 defence, and the banks and public offices sent their cash 
 and valuable property to the castle. Notwithstanding 
 these preparations, however, the king's forces, who, with 
 the town-guard, were posted at Corstorphine, fled pre- 
 cipitately on the approach of the Young Pretender's 
 army, which had crossed the Forth a little above Stir- 
 ling. The town-guard retreated into Edinburgh, and 
 the citizens assembled in the New Church to deliberate 
 upon the expediency of holding out, when it was re- 
 solved to capitulate on the best terms that could be ob- 
 tained. But while appointing deputies to treat for this 
 purpose, a letter was handed to the lord provost and 
 magistrates, signed " Charles, Prince of Wales," setting 
 forth that " the prince was now ready to enter with his 
 army into the metropolis of his ancient kingdom ;" and 
 upon this the meeting broke up in the greatest confusion. 
 Early the next morning, a coach was seen driving through 
 the town towards the Netherbow gate, which the sen- 
 tinel, suspecting no danger, opened to let it pass ; but 
 no sooner was the gate opened than a party of High- 
 landers that had reached it undiscovered rushed into the 
 town, made themselves masters of the gates, took the 
 soldiers on duty prisoners, secured the town-guard, and 
 seized the arms and ammunition. About noon, the 
 Highland army, headed by the Young Pretender, arrived 
 in the King's park, and encamped at Duddingston ; the 
 prince and his suite took possession of the palace of 
 Holyrood House, and compelled the heralds of the town 
 to publish at the Cross a declaration proclaiming a re- 
 gency, and a manifesto promising to the citizens the 
 free exercise of the Protestant religion, and the unre- 
 strained enjoyment of all their rights and privileges. 
 The inhabitants were ordered to deliver up their arms at 
 the palace ; the soldiers and others of the Highland 
 army were strictly prohibited from molesting the citi- 
 zens, or pillaging their property, on pain of summary 
 execution. A message was sent to the magistrates, re- 
 quiring them to furnish a supply of stores, for which 
 payment was promised on the restoration and settle- 
 ment of the pubhc affairs ; and an assessment of two
 
 EDI N 
 
 EDIN 
 
 shillings and sixpence in the pound was made for that 
 purpose on the rents of the citizens. 
 
 On the 50th of September, the Young Pretender and 
 his army marched from their camp at Duddingston, 
 in pursuit of the royal troops, which consisted of 3000 
 infantry, with some dragoons and artillery, encamped 
 near Prestonpans ; and early on the following morning, 
 an engagement took place, which ended in the total de- 
 feat of the royal army, and the loss of their artillery, 
 baggage, and military chest, with which the prince re- 
 turned triumphantly to Edinburgh. The conquerors 
 conducted themselves with the greatest moderation ; their 
 prisoners were liberated on parole, and the clergy or- 
 dered to continue their sacred functions as formerly, 
 but they all declined, with the exception of the minister 
 of the West, and the lecturer of the Tron, kirk, who 
 continued to pray for the king by name without moles- 
 tation. The military abstained from plunder, and during 
 their stay in the city conducted themselves with order 
 and regularity. The castle was still unassailed, and the 
 garrison had hitherto avoided all interference with the 
 invaders ; but on some alarm, a few shots were discharged 
 on the Highlanders who defended the west gate of the 
 city, and on the following day orders were issued to the 
 guard to cut off all intercourse between the city and the 
 castle. Upon this the governor, fearing a want of pro- 
 visions, sent a letter to the lord provost, stating that, 
 unless free intercourse were permitted, he should be 
 compelled to dislodge the Highland guard ; and the 
 magistrates thereupon sending a deputation to the Young 
 Pretender, a truce for a short time was concluded. A 
 few days afterwards, the sentinels of the West fort 
 firing upon a party who were carrying provisions to the 
 castle, the garrison commenced a severe cannonade on 
 the city. Many of the houses were greatly damaged, 
 and some set on fire ; the streets were scoured with 
 cartridge-shot discharged from the cannon on the lower 
 hill, and several of the inhabitants were killed. But on 
 the next day, the Young Pretender issued a proclama- 
 tion withdrawing the blockade of the castle, and all 
 further hostilities ceased. 
 
 Upon the 3 1 st of October, the prince marched for 
 England with 6000 men, and besieged Carlisle, which he 
 took by storm ; but meeting with little support from his 
 adherents in England, and iwnpeded by the vigilance of 
 the royal army, he retreated to Scotland, and having 
 gained some advantage at Falkirk, returned to Edin- 
 burgh, and made an attempt to reduce the castle, in 
 which he failed. The force under the Duke of Cumber- 
 land being now in pursuit of the rebels, they retreated 
 with precipitation towards the north ; but the duke 
 having secured the passes at Perth and Stirling, and 
 intercepted a vessel from France, which had been sent 
 with supplies, the Young Pretender's army was over- 
 taken on the plains of Culloden. Here, after a severe 
 battle, in which above 5000 were left dead on the field, 
 the rebellion was totally extinguished ; and the prince, 
 after numerous adventures, in which his life was in the 
 power of numbers, whom the reward of £30,000 for his 
 apprehension could not prompt to betray him, escaped 
 in safety to the continent. Fourteen of the standards 
 borne by the rebel army were conveyed to Edinburgh, 
 and burnt at the Cross with every mark of ignominious 
 contempt ; and Archibald Stewart, Esq., the lord pro- 
 vost, was now brought to trial in London for neglect in 
 383 
 
 not taking due precautions for the defence of Edinburgh, 
 but, after a long investigation, was acquitted. The city 
 was for some time without any settled government, and 
 the citizens petitioned the king for a restitution of their 
 rights, which he granted by issuing an order for the 
 election of their magistrates according to their wonted 
 usage. The new magistrates and council presented an 
 address of congratulation to the king on the suppression 
 of the rebellion, and ordered the freedom of Edinburgh 
 to be presented to the Duke of Cumberland in a box of 
 gold ; they offered to raise a body of 1000 men for the 
 support of the government, and after the restoration of 
 tranquillity paid great attention to the extension and 
 improvement of the city, by commencing the erection of 
 the New Town. 
 
 During the reign of George IH., the peace was 
 frequently interrupted. In 1779, a violent tumult was 
 excited by the enemies of popery ; the houses of many 
 of the Roman Catholics were destroyed, and numerous 
 outrages committed. For some years, the magistrates 
 maintained a force of five regiments of cavalry, two 
 companies of volunteer artillery, and a company of 
 spearmen, for preserving order. In the progress of the 
 French Revolution, a numerous party of republicans 
 calling themselves Friends of the People, and a body 
 styled the National Convention, assembled in the city, 
 and held regular meetings, though occasionally dispersed 
 by the government authorities; and on the 31st of 
 December, 1811, a large concourse of the most noto- 
 rious and lawless characters, armed with bludgeons, 
 during the whole of that night committed the most 
 desperate outrages. Several of the police were wounded, 
 and one man killed ; but the riot was ultimately quelled, 
 and three of the rioters were hanged on a gallows raised 
 in the High-street. Almost all those concerned in this 
 outbreak were young men, chiefly under twenty years of 
 age ; and the alarm created by their proceedings led to 
 several beneficial plans for the better education of the 
 young. In 1815, the victory of Waterloo was celebrated 
 here with the most triumphant rejoicings, and a resolu- 
 tion was passed for the erection of a monument on the 
 Calton hill in commemoration of the event. 
 
 Visits of George IV. and Her present Majesty. 
 
 In IS'S^, His Majesty George IV. paid a visit to the 
 city, on which occasion the influx of strangers from all 
 quarters of the country, and of all ranks, was immense. 
 In addition to the several regiments of the Scots Greys, 
 the dragoon guards, and other troops of the line ; yeo- 
 manry cavalry and many parties of Highlanders in 
 their costume were sent by the chiefs of the various 
 clans, among which that of Sutherland was the most 
 conspicuous, to grace the triumphal entry of the sove- 
 reign. The slopes of Salisbury Crags, in the King's 
 Park, and the north acclivities of the Castle hill, were 
 covered with military tents and marquees for their tem- 
 porary accommodation ; and on the front of the Crags 
 were planted several pieces of cannon. The king, who 
 arrived in the Leith roads on the 14th of August, 
 landed on the following day, and made his entrance into 
 Edinburgh, escorted by a splendid retinue. He ad- 
 vanced from the harbour, along Leith-walk and the 
 Terrace-road on Calton hill, to the palace of Holyrood 
 House, to which a new and more commodious approach
 
 ED I N 
 
 ED I N 
 
 had been opened for the occasion ; and during the pro- 
 cession His Majesty frequently expressed his admira- 
 tion of the noble streets and buildings of the city, 
 and the romantic scenery "in the vicinity. After re- 
 maining for some time at Holyrood House, the king 
 proceeded to the palace of Dalkeith, the seat of the 
 Duke of Buccleuch, where he resided during the rest of 
 his stay in Scotland. In the evening the city was bril- 
 liantly illuminated, and salutes from the castle, from 
 Sahsbury Crags, the numerous shipping in the roads, 
 the fort of Leith, and the various regiments, were fired 
 in honour of the royal visit ; bonfires were lighted on 
 Arthur's Seat and other eminences, and every demon- 
 stration of an ardent and joyful welcome was testified. 
 
 Upon the 17th of August, the king held a levee in 
 Holyrood House, which was attended by a numerous 
 assemblage of the nobility and gentry, naval and military 
 officers, and the public functionaries. On the Ipth there 
 was another levee, at which he received the addresses of 
 the General Assembly, the Scottish Episcopal Church, 
 the Universities, and the Highland Society ; and on the 
 20th the king held a drawing-room, which was graced 
 by the presence of five hundred ladies of the first rank 
 in the country. His Majesty, on the 22nd, went in 
 state from the palace, through the Canongate and High- 
 street, to the castle, and on the next day reviewed 
 about 3000 of the yeomanry cavalry on the Portobello 
 sands, after which he was present at a grand ball in the 
 assembly-rooms in George-street, given by the peers 
 of Scotland. A banquet was given by the civic autho- 
 rities in the parliament-house, on Saturday the 24th, 
 on which occasion the king conferred upon William 
 Arbuthnot, Esq., the lord provost, the honour of a 
 baronetcy ; and on the morning of Sunday he attended 
 divine service in the High Church, when the sermon 
 ■was preached by Dr. Lamont, moderator of the General 
 Assembly. On Monday, the 26th, His Majesty appeared 
 at a ball given in the assembly-rooms by the members 
 of the Caledonian Hunt. Upon the following day he 
 authorised the laj'ing of the first stone of the National 
 Monument by the Duke of Hamilton, grand master 
 mason of Scotland ; and in the evening visited the 
 theatre. On the same evening there was a ball in honour 
 of the royal visit, under the patronage of the Duchesses 
 of Atholl and Montrose and other ladies of high rank. 
 On Wednesday, the king paid a visit to the Marquess 
 of Lothian at Newbattle Abbey ; and on Thursday, the 
 29th of August, after a short visit to the Earl of Hope- 
 toun at his seat, Hopetoun House, he embarked at Port- 
 Edgar, on his return to England, impressed with a deep 
 sense of the loyalty of his Scottish subjects. 
 
 In the year 1824, a destructive fire broke out in the 
 city, which continued to rage with unabated fury, 
 threatening the neighbourhood with desolation, and fill- 
 ing the inhabitants with consternation and dismay ; but 
 after doing very considerable damage, it was subdued. 
 
 In 1842, the city was visited by Her present Majesty, 
 accompanied by Prince Albert and a distinguished suite. 
 The royal party arrived in the Firth of Forth on the 
 night of Wednesday, the Slst of August, and the course 
 of the vessels bearing the royal visiters was facilitated 
 by the streams of light issuing from the numerous bon- 
 fires on the adjacent hills, the effect of which was mag- 
 nificent in the extreme. On the following morning Her 
 Majesty landed, and proceeded to Dalkeith, the splendid 
 384 
 
 seat of the Duke of Buccleuch : on Friday night, the 
 city was illuminated in honour of the royal visit ; and 
 on Saturday morning, September the 3rd, Her Majesty 
 made her formal entry into Edinburgh, amid the enthu- 
 siastic acclamations of an immense multitude. The 
 various public bodies of the city svere arranged in suit- 
 able order on the occasion, to do honour to the Queen ; 
 and in front of the Royal Exchange, the lord provost, 
 attended by the magistrates and other authorities, pre- 
 sented the keys of the city to Her Majesty, who imme- 
 diately returned them, and proceeded to the castle, 
 where the royal party remained for a short time. Her 
 Majesty then passed down Princess-street, and shortly 
 afterwards quitted the city for Dalmeny, the seat of the 
 Earl of Rosebery, from which she returned in the after- 
 noon, through Leith, to Dalkeith. On Monday, the 5th, 
 the Queen held her court at Dalkeith ; and on the 
 following day set out for the Highlands, where she con- 
 tinued upon a tour till Tuesday, the 13th, on the after- 
 noon of which she reached Dalkeith : on Thursday 
 morning, September 15th, Her Majesty, Prince Albert, 
 and suite, left for England, by sea. 
 
 In the year 1850 the royal family again visited the 
 city, taking up their residence at Holyrood Palace. The 
 distinguished visiters arrived by the North-British rail- 
 way on Thursday evening, the 29th of August : the royal 
 train, gliding round the base of Arthur's Seat, stopped 
 at a private station close to the Queen's Park, expressly 
 erected for Her Majesty's accommodation ; and the 
 Queen, accompanied by Prince Albert and the remainder 
 of the royal party, here alighted, and was received by 
 the Royal Scottish Archers with the Duke of Buccleuch 
 at their head. The royal carriages proceeded slowly 
 along the approach to Holyrood in this direction, the 
 93rd regiment keeping the line of the procession, and 
 the countless thousands that crowded the side and base 
 of Arthur's Seat greeting their sovereign with the most 
 enthusiastic loyalty. On the following morning, at an 
 early hour, the Queen and the prince consort ascended 
 to the summit of Arthur's Seat ; and at one o'clock, in 
 the presence of a distinguished circle and of an immense 
 concourse of spectators, His Royal Highness the prince 
 laid the foundation stone of a building devoted to the 
 fine arts, the proposed National Gallery, on the Mound : 
 the royal children witnessed the proceedings with evi- 
 dent interest from the Argyll Battery of the castle. In 
 the course of the same afternoon. Her Majesty and 
 Prince Albert, with the royal children, rode through the 
 town and round Arthur's Seat, paying a private visit to 
 Donaldson's Hospital ; and on Saturday morning, the 
 31st of August, the royal party left Holyrood Palace for 
 the north, arriving at Her Majesty's Highland residence 
 of Balmoral in the course of the same day. On the re- 
 turn of the court from Balmoral in October, Her Ma- 
 jesty passed a night at Holyrood, and the following 
 morning proceeded to the south. 
 
 Description of the City. 
 
 Edinburgh is built on a series of hills rising abruptly 
 from a level tract of land in the northern portion of the 
 county, about two miles from the Firth of Forth. The 
 ground ascends gradually from the Firth for nearly a 
 mile towards the south, attaining at the plain whereon 
 the palace of Holyrood House is situated, an elevation
 
 EDI N 
 
 EDI N 
 
 of about ninety-four feet above the level of high-water 
 mark. From this plain, the hill ou which the Old Town 
 is built, and which, with reference to the others, may be 
 called the central hill, rises in the form of a flat ridge, 
 increasing by degrees in width for almost a mile and a 
 quarter, and terminating on the west in a precipitous 
 rock on whose summit stands the castle, elevated about 
 ISO feet above the plain of Holyrood on the east, and 
 274 feet above the level of the Firth. 
 
 The Old Town, which owed its origin to the castle, 
 formerly extended but a short distance from that for- 
 tress, and ended at the Netherbow port, one of the 
 gates of the ancient city, now taken down. It con- 
 sisted only of the main street on the summit of the 
 ridge, and of several wynds and closes stretching down 
 the steep declivities on both sides. The buildings, 
 however, were subsequently continued towards the east ; 
 and the High-street at present forms a continuous line 
 more than a mile in length, including the Castle-walk 
 (leading from the Castle hill), the Lawn-market, and 
 the Canongate ; the whole extending from the castle on 
 the west to the palace of Holyrood on the east, and 
 forming a remarkable thoroughfare with numerous lofty 
 and well-built houses, many of which are still of ancient 
 character. " There are thousands of streets in the 
 civilized world (says the late Sir Thomas Dick Lauder) 
 to which the High-street of Edinburgh can bear no 
 comparison, either as to elegance of architecture or 
 magnificence of design ; but the antiquated, unpretend- 
 ing, and smoke-discoloured fronts of its houses, of some 
 ten stories, occasionally topped by curious gables and 
 huge square chimneys, so high in the heavens that, 
 notwithstanding its great breadth from side to side, it 
 is painful to look directly up to them from below, give 
 to it a peculiar species of venerable grandeur which is 
 to be found no where else". Nearly parallel with the 
 High-street, on the north, is the street called the North- 
 Back of the Canongate, communicating by the Calton, 
 formerly styled St. Niuian'srow, with the road to Lcith; 
 and on the south is a line of nearly equal length with 
 the High-street, reaching from the suburb of Portsburgh 
 on the west, and including the Grassmarket, the Cow- 
 gate, and the South-Back of the Canongate. These 
 streets are intersected by the Pleasance, continued 
 through St. Mary's wynd and Leith-wynd ; Bridge- 
 street, leading along the North and South bridges, and 
 uniting the southern districts with the Old and New 
 Town ; and St. John's street. To the west of Bridge- 
 street are, the site of the ancient Cross now removed, 
 and the Parliament-square, containing the Parliament- 
 house and other stately edifices. The southern declivities 
 of the ridge occupied by the main street terminate in a 
 level tract of inconsiderable breadth, on which the Cow- 
 gate is situated ; and beyond this the ground rises gra- 
 dually, and expands into a wide open plain. The north- 
 ern declivities of the ridge are much more abrupt, and 
 terminate in some flat ground of moderate breadtli, 
 which, being formerly covered with water, was called the 
 North Loch, but which was afterwards laid out in 
 shrubberies and plantations, and is now partly occupied 
 as a site for the termini of three great railways. Beyond 
 this the surface rises, by a gradual ascent, to the flat 
 hill on which the New Town is built. 
 
 The extension of the town on the north side of the 
 Loch was projected in the reign of Charles H. ; but no 
 Vol. I. — 3S.5 
 
 efforts were made to that effect till the year 1751, when 
 the fall of an old house, and the dangerous condition of 
 many others in the town, led to the draining of the lake 
 and the foundation of a bridge, the first stone of which 
 was laid by Provost Drummond on the 21st of October, 
 1763. The bridge was erected under the superintend- 
 ence of Mr. Wm. Mylne, brother of the architect of 
 Blackfriars bridge, London, and was scarcely completed, 
 in 1769, when the southern arch and side walls gave way, 
 and several persons were killed. It was, however, finished 
 in 1772, at an expense of £18,000, and is a handsome 
 structure of three noble arches, each seventy-two feet in 
 span and sixty-eight feet high, with two smaller arches 
 of about twenty feet span, one at either end, and nume- 
 rous others that are inclosed and occupied as warehouses 
 and vaults. In the year 1767, while this important 
 work was proceeding, an act of parliament for extending 
 the royalty was obtained, during the provostship of 
 Gilbert Laurie, Esq., and a plan for the New Town was 
 formed by James Craig, architect, nephew of the poet 
 Thomson. 
 
 The New Town is connected with the Old Town by 
 the bridge just described, called the North bridge, and 
 also by an immense mound of earth to the west, formed 
 across the valley, and the acclivities of which are em- 
 bellished with plantations. It consists principally of 
 three spacious parallel streets. Of these. Princes-street, 
 on the south, forms a magnificent terrace of fine houses 
 with pleasure-grounds in front, nearly a mile in length, 
 and communicates with the new London road on the east. 
 George-street, to the north, extends from Charlotte- 
 square on the west, a splendid range of noble houses, 
 to St. Andrew's square on the east, also an elegant area, 
 surrounded by handsome buildings ; while Queen-street, 
 still further to the north, the third of these spacious 
 streets, reaches from Albyn-place on the west to York- 
 place on the east. Between Princes-street and George- 
 street, and between George-street and Queen-street, are 
 two parallel ranges of narrower streets, of which the 
 former includes West, Middle, and East Rose streets, 
 and the latter Young-street and East and West Thistle 
 streets ; and intersecting these at right angles are nume- 
 rous good streets from north to south, the principal of 
 which are Charlotte, Castle, Frederick, Hanover, St. 
 David's, and St. Andrew's streets. To the north of 
 Queen-street, but separated from it to the west by a 
 wide valley agreeably disposed in pleasure-grounds and 
 public walks, are Heriot-row, Abercromby-place, Albany- 
 street, and Forth-street, the last directly communicating 
 with Union-street leading to Leith-vvalk. Parallel witli 
 these, northward, are Jamaica-street, Northumberland- 
 street, and Broughton-place : beyond are Great King- 
 street, Drumraond-place, and London-street; and parallel 
 with these, and still further to the north, are Cumber- 
 land-street and Fettes-row. To the west of this part of 
 the New Town is the Royal Circus, a spacious area 
 tastefully laid out, and surrounded with elegant houses : 
 to the east are the Royal-crescent and Bellevue-crescent, 
 with Claremont street and crescent beyond the latter ; 
 and intersecting the ranges of parallel streets mentioned 
 in the two preceding sentences, at right angles, arc India- 
 street, St. Vincent and Howe streets, Pitt and Dundas 
 streets, and Nelson and Duncan streets. To the east of 
 the two last-named are Scotland, Dublin, and Duke 
 streets, all containing well-built houses. 
 
 3 D
 
 E D I N 
 
 ED I N 
 
 During the delay that occurred in the formation of 
 the New Town, a very considerable district on the 
 south of the Old was erected on ground which, the 
 magistrates having neglected to purchase it, was bought 
 by Mr. Brown, an enterprising builder, who raised some 
 handsome houses called Brown-square. The circum- 
 stance of these being soon occupied by respectable 
 families led to the erection of George-square, ou a more 
 extensive scale, and in a superior elegance of style : 
 several fine streets were afterwards built, and also addi- 
 tional squares, of which Argyll, Adam's, and Nicholson 
 squares are the principal ; many new lines of approach 
 were opened, and the buildings of the university erected. 
 This important district was subsequently extended 
 westward, beyond Heriot's and Watson's hospitals, to 
 Lauriston, and southward to Newington ; and a large 
 suburb of handsome streets and elegant villas reaches 
 towards the south-east, almost to the base of Salis- 
 bury Crags, a remarkable hill, forming an exceedingly 
 romantic feature in the scenery of Edinburgh, and sepa- 
 rated from the yet loftier Arthur's Seat by a deep valley 
 called the Hunter's Bog. The want of a more direct 
 line of communication with the Old Town was soon 
 strongly felt, and for this purpose the South bridge, in 
 a line with the North bridge, was commenced in 1785, 
 and completed in 1*89. It is a substantial structure of 
 twenty-two arches of various dimensions, all of which 
 are concealed by houses, except one over the Cowgate, 
 which is thirty feet in span and thirty-six feet in height, 
 defended on each side by an iron pahsade, affording a 
 view of the Cowgate beneath. The houses on this bridge 
 are all uniformly built. 
 
 Since the formation of the New Town, very exten- 
 sive additions have been made to the city in all direc- 
 tions. On the north-west, between Charlotte-square 
 and the Leith water, some splendid ranges of building 
 were erected in IS^S and subsequent years on the 
 grounds of Druraseugh, the property of the Earl of Mo- 
 ray, consisting of Moray-place, a spacious octagon, com- 
 municating with an oval of smaller dimensions on the 
 west, and in which are mansions in the first style of 
 elegance ; and several squares, streets, and places, among 
 which are Ainslie-place, Randolph-crescent, and numerous 
 other stately piles. This is the quarter of the city most 
 celebrated for the architectural magnificence of its streets, 
 squares, and crescents, which are all in accordance with 
 a uniform plan designed by Mr. Gillespie Graham, archi- 
 tect. In the immediate vicinity, on the great north 
 road, is a handsome structure called the Dean Bridge, 
 erected over the ravine through which the Leith water 
 flows, and connecting the western extremity of the New 
 Town with the parks on the north side of that river. 
 This bridge, a massive edifice of four arches, the two 
 central of which are of stupendous height, was com- 
 pleted in 1832. 
 
 A very considerable addition to the New Town was 
 made about the same time, to the west of Princes-street, 
 on the lands of Coates, the property of Sir Patrick 
 Walker. Some fine ranges of streets were formed in 
 the park here, previously the seat of the Byres family ; 
 and of these Melville-street, almost in a line with 
 George-street, contains some very stately buildings : 
 close to Melville-street, on the Glasgow road, are Atlioll 
 and Coates crescents, facing each other, with shrubberies 
 in front, and both remarkable for the beauty of their 
 386 
 
 architecture ; also Rutland-street and Rutland-square, to 
 the south of which are handsome streets leading to Port- 
 Hopetoun, built since the Union canal was formed. 
 
 To the east of the New Town, also, many important 
 additions have been made. Picardy-place, an elegant 
 pile of buildings, has been erected ; to the north-east of 
 which are Gayfield-square and Greenside-place ; and a 
 noble line of approach has been opened from the 
 Calton hill by the removal of the houses of Shakspeare- 
 square, at the eastern extremity of Princes-street, and 
 by the construction of the Regent's bridge. This is a 
 handsome structure of one arch, fifty feet in span and 
 fifty feet high, completed in 1819, connecting Princes- 
 street with the hill, and communicating with the new 
 London road. The parapets of the bridge are orna- 
 mented with niches and well-formed pillars connected 
 with the houses in Waterloo-place, a fine range four 
 stories in height, on the south side of which are the 
 post-office and stamp-office, both handsome buildings ; 
 and an elegant hotel has been built by a proprietary 
 of shareholders, at an expense of £30,000. From 
 Waterloo-place the new London road sweeps round 
 the face of Calton hill, in which direction, also, nume- 
 rous additions to the city have been made. The Leith- 
 walk, more than a mile in length, has been wholly 
 paved, and forms a grand line of approach, having on 
 both sides numerous detached patches and rows of 
 buildings, with nurseries and plantations in the inter- 
 vals ; and on the east of Calton hill, and encircling it at 
 a considerable height from its base, are Carlton-terrace, 
 the Royal-terrace, and Regent-terrace, superb lines of 
 houses commanding a fine view of the Firth of Forth, 
 the coasts of Fife and Haddington, and the bay of Mus- 
 selburgh. To the north-west of Leith-walk, are several 
 new lines of streets, the most elegant and conspicuous 
 of them being Claremont street and crescent, in front 
 of the latter of which are the Zoological gardens : to 
 the east of Leith-walk, several ranges of handsome 
 streets have been projected and partly built on the lands 
 of Hillside, and the slope of the Calton hill. 
 
 Additional facilities of communication with the Old 
 Town were afforded by the erection of George IV.'s 
 bridge over the Cowgate from the Lawnmarket to 
 Bristo-street, a well-built structure of numerous arches, 
 of which three only are left open ; and also by the 
 construction of a bridge on the south side of the castle, 
 by the commissioners for the improvement of the city. 
 
 The Victoria Road, or Queen's Drive, which has been 
 mostly constructed since Her Majesty's visit to Edinburgh 
 in 1842, and, we believe, at the royal expense, proceeds 
 by Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, &c., and forms a 
 splendid carriage-drive, surpassed perhaps by nothing 
 of the kind in the kingdom. Commencing beneath the 
 west point of Salisbury Crag, it passes round the entire 
 hilly group in an irregular oval course, nearly three 
 miles and a half in extent. At every step a changing 
 view meets the eye ; the road throughout is higher than 
 the surrounding country, and a complete panorama 
 is therefore presented to those who make the circuit. 
 Much of the road was formed by blasting the solid 
 rock. At the south-eastern part of the course, this 
 blasting has taken place at a considerable elevation ; 
 Duddingston Loch and Dunsapie Loch here lie spread out 
 beneath, and the country for miles constitutes a rich 
 landscape. The road was opened in 1848.
 
 EDI N 
 
 EDIN 
 
 In conclusion : the long avenues of noble streets in- 
 tersecting each other at right angles, and containing 
 uniform ranges of handsome houses ; the numerous 
 terraces, places, crescents, and squares of splendid 
 mansions, enlivened with gardens, shrubberies, and 
 pleasure-grounds in the very centre of the town ; the 
 spacious walks, the statcliness of the public buildings, 
 the imposing aspect of the ancient castle, the palace, 
 with the venerable ruins of the abbey of Holyrood, and 
 parks adjoining; the Botanic, Horticultural, and Zoolo- 
 gical gardens ; the monuments on the Calton hill, with 
 the beautiful line of approach from the town ; the ro- 
 mantic scenery in the immediate vicinity, Arthur's Seat, 
 Salisbury Crags, the avenue of Leith-walk, and other 
 lines of communication with the different suburbs, and 
 a vast variety of other interesting features ; all these 
 contribute to impart to the city an air of impressive 
 grandeur and magnificence. 
 
 The environs in every direction abound with pictu- 
 resque and richJy-diversified scenery, and command ex- 
 tensive prospects over a wide extent of country embel- 
 lished with features of romantic beauty and objects of 
 intense interest. Among the more prominent of these 
 are, the palace and grounds of Dalkeith, the seat of the 
 Duke of Buccleuch ; Duddingston House, the seat of 
 the Marquess of Abercorn ; Hawthornden, remarkable 
 for its situation on a precipitous rock overhanging the 
 North Esk ; Roslin Castle, the ancient seat of the St. 
 Clairs, Earls of Orkney, with the beautiful ruins of the 
 ancient chapel, one of the richest specimens of eccle- 
 siastical arcliitecture extant ; Corstorphine, adorned by 
 its luxuriant woods and numerous picturesque villas ; 
 with the towns of Newhaven and Portobello, favourite 
 resorts for sea-bathing. 
 
 The Castle. 
 
 Edinburgh Castle is most romantically situated at the 
 western extremity of the ridge on which the Old Town 
 is built, and, with its several buildings, occupies an irregu- 
 lar area of about seven acres, on the summit of a rugged 
 rock rising almost perpendicularly from its base to a 
 height of more than 300 feet, and inaccessible on all 
 sides except the east. The approach from the town is 
 by an esplanade, 3r)0 feet in length and 300 feet in 
 breadth, inclosed on both sides by iron palisades, and 
 forming a favourite promenade : on the north side is a 
 handsome bronze statue of the Duke of York in the 
 robes of the order of the garter, placed on a pedestal, 
 and holding in his hand a field-marshal's baton. At 
 the west end of the esplanade, a draw-bridge over a 
 wide and deep fosse, flanked on each side by a battery, 
 leads to the guard-house, to the left of which is a well 
 for supplying the garrison with water. Beyond this, 
 the path conducts round the north side of the rock, 
 under two gateways, one of which, formerly used as a 
 state prison, is defended by a portcullis, whence a long 
 flight of steps forms an ascent to the Half-moon battery 
 and the more ancient parts of the fortress. The Half- 
 moon battery is mounted with fourteen eighteen 
 pounders, commanding the town, and is a massive 
 circular tower, above the battlements of which the royal 
 standard is displayed on public occasions. The Argyll 
 battery, mounting ten guns of twelve and eighteen 
 pounders, from which salutes are generally fired, over- 
 387 
 
 looks the New Town ; and on the acclivity of the hill 
 are the houses of the governor, fort-major, and store- 
 master, the ordnance office, the powder-magazine, which 
 is bomb-proof, the grand store-room, and the arsenal, 
 which is capable of containing 30,000 stand of arms. 
 The new barracks, a spacious range of buildings four 
 stories in height, are adapted for the accommodation 
 of 1000 men; and near them is the chapel of the gar- 
 rison, above which is the bomb-battery, on the highest 
 point of the rock, having near it the ancient piece of 
 ordnance called " Mons Meg," mounted on an elegant 
 carriage bearing the following inscriptions : " Believed 
 to have been forged at Mons, A.D. I486"; "At the 
 siege of Norham Castle, A.D. 1497"; "Sent to the 
 Tower of London, A.D. 1754"; "Restored to Scotland 
 by his Majesty George IV., A.D. 1829 ". 
 
 The more ancient part of the castle comprises a qua- 
 drangular court of considerable extent, of which the 
 south side is occupied by the buildings formerly the 
 parliament-house, and now appropriated to the use of 
 the district military and regimental hospital : the north 
 side is formed by the barracks, and the west by various 
 apartments for the garrison. The east side contains 
 the principal range, surmounted by an octagonal turret 
 of considerable elevation, and was anciently the royal 
 residence. Here is the apartment in which James VI. 
 was born ; over the door is the letter M, with the date 
 1566, and on the north gable are a rose and a thistle, 
 with the date 161.5. Mary of Guise is said to have died 
 in this apartment ; but in its present state it displays 
 no appearance to warrant that opinion. In this part 
 of the quadrangle is the crown room, in which, upon 
 the Union, were deposited the ancient regalia of 
 Scotland. They were generally supposed to have been 
 sent to the Tower of London ; but on a search under 
 a commission issued in 1818 by George IV., then re- 
 gent, to several noblemen, the judges of the Supreme 
 Court, the lord provost, and other gentlemen, among 
 whom was Sir Walter Scott, they were found inclosed 
 here in an oak chest, together with a deed of deposition, 
 dated the 26th of March, 1707. These regalia, which 
 are open for public inspection daily from twelve to three 
 o'clock, on producing a ticket, obtainable at the City, 
 Chambers, consist of the royal crown of Scotland, the 
 sceptre, the sword of state, and a silver rod of office 
 supposed to be that of the lord treasurer. In the same 
 room are preserved the ruby ring, set round with dia- 
 monds, which was worn by Charles I. at his coro- 
 nation ; the golden collar and badge of the order of the 
 garter, sent by Queen Elizabeth to James VI. ; and the 
 badge of the order of the thistle, bequeathed by Car- 
 dinal York to George IV., and deposited here in 1830. 
 This ancient and venerable castle, though much dis- 
 figured in its appearance by an admixture of modern 
 alterations of incongruous character, forms, from its 
 elevated and commanding situation, a strikingly impres- 
 sive feature in the view of the town. 
 
 The Abbey and Palace of Holyrood. 
 
 At the eastern extremity of the town are the remains 
 of the ancient Abbey of Holy hood, founded by David I. 
 for monks of the order of St. Augustine, in gratitude 
 for his deliverance from danger while hunting. This 
 monastery, which was liberally endowed by the king and 
 
 3 D2
 
 E D I N 
 
 EDIN 
 
 by many of his successors, was one of the richest esta- 
 blishments of the kind in the kingdom ; but it was de- 
 stroyed by the Enghsh under the Earl of Hertford in 
 1545, and little of the building remains except the nave 
 of the ancient church, which was an elegant cruciform 
 structure, and a portion of which was used as the parish 
 church of Canongafe, after the Reformation, and was 
 also appropriated as the chapel royal. The chapel was 
 repaired in the year 1633, on the visit of Charles I. to 
 Scotland for his coronation, which took place in the 
 building. At the time of the Revolution it was plundered 
 by a mob, who stripped it of the roof, destroyed the 
 monuments, took away the coffins of the kings and 
 nobles who had been interred within its walls, and scat- 
 tered their bones in the wildest disorder. When opened 
 a few years previously, in 1683, the royal vault had been 
 found to contain the coffins of James V. and his queen, 
 Magdalene ; their son Prince Arthur, and Arthur, son 
 of James IV., who both died in infancy; Lord Darnley; 
 and Lady Jane Stuart, Countess of Argyll. The chapel 
 remained roofless till 1758, when it was covered with a 
 ponderous roof of flag stones, beneath the weight of 
 which the walls ten years afterwards gave way, and the 
 building has from that time been a ruin. The remains 
 consist chiefly of the west front and a portion of the 
 side walls and piers : the entrance is by a richly-deco- 
 rated arch, flanked on each side by a lofty square em- 
 battled tower ; above the arch is a noble window of 
 elegant design, and those parts of the interior which are 
 yet entire display great beauty and costly magnificence 
 of style. In the north-west tower is a handsome marble 
 monument to Lord Belhaven, of the Douglas family, 
 who died in 1639; but though the chapel is still used 
 as a burial-place by distinguished families, it contains 
 no other monuments of importance. In the aisles are 
 numerous gravestones, one of which is pointed out as 
 the grave of David Rizzio ; and there is a tablet to the 
 memory of Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney. 
 
 The Palace of Holyrood House, originally built 
 by James IV., and enlarged by James V., and which 
 was a very spacious structure consisting of five separate 
 quadrangles, was burnt by Cromwell's soldiers during 
 , the parliamentary war, and rebuilt, with the exception 
 of the north-west towers, after the Restoration. The 
 ])resent palace, erected from a design by Sir William 
 Bruce, is a stately quadrang>ilar structure in the Palla- 
 dian style of architecture, inclosing an area about 100 
 feet square, the principal entrance to which is on the 
 north-west, by a handsome gateway in the centre of the 
 front, which at each of the angles is flanked by two 
 lofty circular towers, embattled, and crowned with a 
 pyramidal roof terminating in a point surmounted by a 
 vane. The quadrangle is surrounded with a piazza, in the 
 south-west angle of which is the entrance to Her Majesty's 
 apartments, by a grand staircase leading to the throne 
 room, in which is a portrait of George IV. in Highland 
 costume, by Wilkic. On the north side of the qua- 
 drangle is the picture gallery, 150 feet in length and 
 twenty-eight feet wide, the walls of which are painted by 
 De Wit with more than a hundred full-length portraits 
 and heads of the Scottish kings, which were mutilated 
 and defaced by the soldiers under General Hawley, after 
 their defeat at the battle of Falkirk. In this gallery the 
 election of the representative peers of Scotland takes 
 place on the summoning of every new parliament. 
 388 
 
 The north-west portion of the palace contains the 
 apartments of Queen Mary, and those of the Duke of 
 Hamilton, hereditary keeper ; the latter occupy the first 
 floor under the unhappy queen's, and in one of them the 
 marriage with Bothwell is supposed to have been cele- 
 brated. The apartment in the western front of the tower 
 called Queen Mary's bed-chamber is hung with tapestry, 
 and contains a portrait of Queen Elizabeth, the hands of 
 which are stained with blood ; and various articles of 
 furniture said to have been used by Mary. Attached to 
 it is the queen's dressing-room, in the south-west turret; 
 and to the right of it is the closet in which the queen, 
 with the Countess of Argyll and a few other ladies of 
 the court, was at supper when Lord Darnley, the Lord 
 Ruthven, and others, entering by a staircase from the 
 chapel royal, seized Rizzio, who was sitting at a side table, 
 and, dragging him to the head of the staircase, despatched 
 him with their daggers. In Mary's presence-chamber 
 are numerous paintings, comparatively of recent date ; 
 and in the apartments of the duke are also many paint- 
 ings and portraits. From 1795 to 1799 the palace 
 afforded an asylum to Charles X. of France, then Comte 
 D' Artois, who, with his suite, occupied the more modern 
 part of it; and subsequently, from 1830 to 1833, the 
 same monarch, with his family, consisting of the Duke 
 and Duchess of Angouleme, the Duchess of Berri, and 
 her son, the Duke of Bordeaux, resided here. Her pre- 
 sent Majesty's occupation of Holyrood Palace has been 
 referred to in a former part of the article. 
 
 In the grounds on the north and east of the palace and 
 the chapel royal, and which were inclosed by a handsome 
 iron palisade on the visit of George IV., the foundations 
 of the church of the ancient abbey of Holyrood may be 
 still distinctly traced. In the royal gardens is preserved 
 Queen Mary's sun-dial ; and in the avenue from the 
 park to the Abbey hill is an ancient building which has 
 obtained the name of the Queen's Bath ; while in the 
 Canongate is a large edifice that was the residence of 
 the Earl of Moray, regent, to whom it had been given by 
 the queen, and in the gardens attached to which is a tree 
 said to have been planted by her. The sanctuary of 
 Holyrood House still affords security for twenty-four 
 hours to persons flying from their creditors, and to whom 
 a bailie appointed by the Duke of Hamilton afterwards 
 grants protection, on application in that time. Within 
 its limits are the parks of St. Anne's Yards, the Duke's- 
 walk, and Arthur's Seat, on which last are the remains 
 of the chapel and hermitage of St. Anthony, with a 
 spring of fine water, called St. Anthony's well ; and also 
 within the precincts of the sanctuary are Salisbury Crags 
 and the south parks, extending to Duddingston loch. In 
 August, 1843, an act of parliament was passed authorising 
 the transfer of the keepership of the royal park of Holy- 
 rood House from the Earl of Haddington, the hereditary 
 keeper, to the Commissioners of Woods and Forests. 
 
 There are still some remains of the ancient palace and 
 oratory of Mary of Guise, queen of James V., and mother 
 of Mary, Queen of Scots, situated in Blyth's-close. Over 
 the door of the former is the cipher of that queen, with 
 the inscription L«!;s et Honor Deo. The situation of the 
 building, which has long been divided into small tene- 
 ments, and occupied by the humblest class, is exceed- 
 ingly inappropriate for a royal residence ; and but for 
 the cipher of Mary of Guise over the door, it could not 
 be supposed to have had any claims to that distinction. 
 
 I
 
 EDIN 
 
 ED I N 
 
 The Parliament House, and Sciuare. 
 
 The parliament-house, situated in Parliament-square, 
 was built in 1640, at an expense of £11,000. The hall, 
 in which the parliaments were held, is a noble apartment 
 12'2 feet in length and nearly fifty feet wide, with a lofty 
 roof of old timber frame-work, richly carved, and orna- 
 mented with gilding, supported by arches resting on 
 corbels on the walls. It is lighted by a range of four 
 spacious windows on the west side ; and at the south 
 end is a handsome window of large dimensions and of 
 elegant design, though not quite in character with the 
 hall itself, embellished with stained glass, in which is a 
 well-painted figure of Justice, with the appropriate em- 
 blems. Near the north end is a statue of the first Lord 
 Melville, finely executed in marble by Chantrey ; on the 
 east side of the hall is one of the Lord President Forbes 
 by Roubilliac, erected at the expense of the Faculty of 
 Advocates ; and on the opposite sides, towards the south 
 end, are two other statues by Chantrey, of Lord Presi- 
 dent Blair, and Robert Dundas, lord chief baron of Scot- 
 land. The walls of the parliament-house were formerly 
 hung with portraits of William IIL, Queen Mary, and 
 Queen Anne, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, of George L, and 
 of John and Archibald, Dukes of Argyll, all of which have 
 been removed. Before the erection of this edifice, the 
 parliaments used to meet in the Tolbooth. 
 
 Connected with the parliament-house are the buildings 
 appropriated to the library of the Faculty of Advo- 
 cates, svhich was founded by Sir George Mackenzie, lord 
 advocate of Scotland in the reign of Charles IL, and at 
 present contains about 150,000 volumes. The depart- 
 ment of Scottish poetry is exceedingly rare and curious ; 
 and the manuscripts form an interesting collection, the 
 most valuable of them relating to the civil and ecclesi- 
 astical history of Scotland. The library is under the 
 management of a chief librarian, and of five curators, one 
 of whom retires annually, and is succeeded by a member 
 of the faculty, elected by the body. A considerable num- 
 ber of the books are kept in apartments underneath the 
 hall of the parliament- house, and the remainder in a 
 handsome building adjoining it, containing two spacious 
 rooms, the upper of which is elegantly decorated, and 
 has a richly-carved ceiling, ornamented with gilding. In 
 this room are, a well sculptured bust of Baron Hume, of 
 the Scottish exchequer, nephew of the historian, and 
 portraits of Sir George Mackenzie, the founder ; Arch- 
 bishop Spottiswoode, lord high chancellor of Scotland ; 
 the Lords Presidents Forbes and Lockhart, and other 
 judges of the Supreme Court ; and a portrait of Andrew 
 Crosbie, Esq., advocate, the prototype of Sir Walter 
 Scott's " Counsellor Pleydell " in Guij Mannering. The 
 Advocates' Library is one of the five libraries that re- 
 ceive from Stationers' Hall a copy of every new work 
 published in Great Britain or Ireland. 
 
 Attached also to the buildings of the parliament-house, 
 is the LIBRARY of the Writers to the Signet, a collec- 
 tion of .50,000 volumes, under the direction of a princi- 
 pal librarian and a body of curators. It is peculiarly 
 rich in the department of history, more especially in 
 British and Irish history. The building comprises two 
 large apartments, connected with a handsome staircase. 
 The upper room, which was originally fitted up for the 
 Advocates' Library, is 130 feet in length and forty feet 
 wide; the lofty roof is elaborately enriched, and sup- 
 389 
 
 ported by a noble range of twelve stately columns on 
 each side, behind which a gallery extends throughout 
 the whole length. This apartment is lighted by a cupola 
 in the centre of the ceiling, the interior of which was 
 painted by T. Stothard, R.A., in IS'2'2, with arabesque 
 ornaments and figures of Apollo and the Nine Muses, 
 and three groups with portraits of eminent poets, his- 
 torians, and philosophers, respectively ; Homer, Virgil, 
 Shakspeare, Milton, and Burns, among the poets ; 
 Herodotus, Livy, Hume, Robertson, and Gibbon ; and 
 Demosthenes, Cicero, Lord Bacon, Napier of Merchiston, 
 Sir Isaac Newton, and Adam Smith. On the grand 
 staircase leading to this splendid room, is a full-length 
 portrait of Lord President Hope in his robes as lord 
 justice-general, painted by Watson Gordon ; and on the 
 landing-place, portraits of several eminent lawyers, in- 
 cluding Lord President Blair, painted by Sir Henry 
 Raeburn, also marble busts of Sir James Gibson Craig, 
 Bart., and Colin Mackenzie, and a fine cast in terracotta 
 of the famous Warwick vase. 
 
 In the centre of the Parliament-square is an eques- 
 trian statue of Charles II. in lead painted in imitation of 
 bronze, erected by the corporation in 1685, at an ex- 
 pense of £1000, and representing the king in the Roman 
 costume, with a truncheon in the right hand. The 
 buildings around the area form a semicircular range of 
 handsome elevation, with a piazza in front, comprising 
 (in addition to the parliament-house) the exchequer, the 
 Justiciary courts, the courts of session, various other 
 offices, and the Union Bank of Scotland. 
 
 College of Physicians, and of Surgeons, and 
 THE Medical Society's Buildings. 
 
 The old hall of the College of Phj'sicians, situated on 
 the south side of George-street, nearly opposite to St. 
 Andrew's church, and of which the first stone was laid 
 by Dr. Cullen, in 1775, has been removed to make way 
 for the handsome new buildings of the Commercial Bank 
 of Scotland, to which establishment the Physicians sold 
 their hall. It was a structure in the Grecian style, 
 having in the centre of the principal front a boldly pro- 
 jecting portico of four stately Corinthian columns, sup- 
 porting an enriched entablature and cornice, and sur- 
 mounted by a triangular pediment. The whole of this 
 elegant edifice was crowned with a parapet and open 
 balustrade, and the interior comprised a spacious and 
 chastely decorated hall for the meetings of the members 
 of the college, with various other apartments ; a museum ; 
 and a library fifty feet in length, thirty feet wide, and 
 twenty feet high, lighted by two ranges of five windows, 
 and surrounded on three sides by a gallery. The build- 
 ing was erected after a design by James Craig, nephew 
 of the author of The Seasons, and architect of the New 
 Town. The new hall of the College of Physicians, 
 situated in Queen-street, is a building of much plainer 
 appearance. Its facade presents three figures, the two 
 lower ones representing /Esculapius and Hippocrates, 
 and the upper one Hygeia, the goddess of health : they 
 were all sculptured by Mr. Alexander Ritchie, a pupil 
 of Thorwaldsen's. The library is enriched with a series 
 of works on natural history, presented by Dr. Wright, of 
 Kersey. Surgeons' Hall, belonging to the Royal College 
 of Surgeons, incorporated by charter in 1788, is situated 
 in Nicholson-street, and forms an elegant structure.
 
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 EDIN 
 
 erected after a design by Mr. Playfair, at a cost of 
 £20,000. The front is embellished with a noble portico, 
 under which is the chief entrance ; and the interior com- 
 prises numerous splendid halls for the accommodation 
 of the members, a pathological museum including col- 
 lections by Dr. Barclay and other eminent professors, 
 and a valuable repository of preparations for the illus- 
 tration of the science. The Royal Medical Society ap- 
 pears to have originated about the time that the medical 
 schoolof Edinburgh was first established in the university, 
 and the celebrated Dr. Cullen and Dr. Fothergill were 
 among its earliest and most active members. It was 
 erected into a corporate body by royal charter in 1778. 
 The buildings are situated in Surgeons'-square, to the east 
 of the Royal Infirmary, and comprise three large rooms, 
 one of which contains a library of medical works, another 
 a museum of natural curiosities and anatomical prepara- 
 tions ; and a laboratory for chemical experiments. The 
 Extra-Academical Medical School may also be mentioned. 
 
 The Royal Exchange, and Bank. 
 
 The Royal Exchange in High-street, nearly fronting 
 the Parliament-square, and the first stone of which was 
 laid by George Drummond, Esq., grand master of the 
 masonic order, in 1753, was completed in 176l,at a cost 
 of £30,000. It is a handsome quadrangular structure, 
 of which the south front has a boldly projecting piazza 
 rising to the height of the first story, and crowned with 
 a balustrade : above this the slightly projecting centre of 
 the front is adorned with four pilasters of the Corinthian 
 order, supporting an enriched cornice with an attic, sur- 
 mounted by a triangular pediment ornamented at the 
 angles and on the apex with vases, and having in the 
 tympanum the city arms, finely sculptured. An arch- 
 way leads from the piazza into the quadrangular area, 
 ninety-six feet in length and eighty-six feet in width, 
 three sides of which are wholly appropriated as shops 
 and offices, and the other constitutes what is properly 
 the Exchange buildings. These form a handsome range 
 1 1 1 feet in length, and fifty-seven feet in depth, com- 
 prising about twenty spacious apartments, now occupied 
 as the city chambers, for the accommodation of the town 
 council, the town-clerks, and other civic functionaries. 
 
 The Bank of Scotland, situated in Bank-street, 
 nearly opposite to George theFourth's bridge, was first 
 established by a company incorporated by act of parlia- 
 ment in 1695, with a joint-stock of £100,000 sterling, 
 which has been since increased to £2,000,000. It is 
 under the direction of a governor, deputy governor, and 
 a body of twenty-four directors. The building, erected 
 at an expense of £75,000, is a fine structure of stone, of 
 the Corinthian order, having in the centre of the front 
 two projecting porticos of two columns each, rising from 
 a rusticated basement, and supporting an entablature 
 and cornice surmounted with an open balustrade that 
 extends along the whole of the building, at each end of 
 which are corresponding projections of duplicated Corin- 
 thian pilasters. Over the entrance is a Venetian window 
 of three lights, divided by Corinthian columns sustaining 
 an enriched entablature, above which are the arms of 
 Scotland, having on one side a figure of Plenty, with an 
 inverted cornucopia, and on the other a figure of Justice, 
 with the motto Tanto uberior. Behind these, a cupola 
 and dome rise from the centre of the building. 
 390 
 
 The Royal Bank of Scotland, situated in a recess to the 
 east of St. Andrew's square, is a very handsome bu ilding 
 originally erected by Sir Laurence Dundas as a family 
 residence, but sold by his son to the Board of Excise, by 
 whom it was occupied for many years. Eventually it 
 was purchased from the board by the Royal Bank for its 
 present use. It was designed by Sir William Cham- 
 bers, and is in the Roman or Itahan style, with a slight 
 projection in the centre of the front, embellished with 
 four engaged Corinthian columns springing from a rus- 
 ticated basement, in which is the entrance, and support- 
 ing an entablature and cornice, and a triangular pediment 
 having in the tympanum the royal arms. 
 
 Some of the other banks in Edinburgh (the Commer- 
 cial Bank, the Western Bank, &c.) form also handsome 
 structures. 
 
 The Register Office. 
 
 The Register Office, situated in Princes-street, 
 opposite the north end of Bridge-street, was commenced 
 in 1774, by a grant of £12,000 obtained by the Earl of 
 Morton in the reign of George III., and completed in 
 1822, at an expense of £40,000. This elegant structure, 
 erected after a design by Mr. Robert Adam, has a prin- 
 cipal front 200 feet in length, from which projects a cen- 
 tral portico of four Corinthian columns, rising from a 
 rusticated piazza of three arches forming the entrance, 
 and supporting an enriched entablature and cornice, with 
 a triangular pediment, in the tympanum of which are 
 the arms of Great Britain. At each of the extremities 
 of the front is a projecting wing of similar character, 
 with two columns, between which is a Venetian window, 
 surmounted by a turret and dome rising to a considerable 
 elevation above the balustrade. Behind the central por- 
 tico are seen the stately cupola and dome that spring 
 from the interior of the quadrangle. The quadrangle is 
 surrounded with handsome ranges of building comprising 
 ninety-seven vaulted apartments, among which are, an 
 elegant room thirty-five feet long, twenty- four feet wide, 
 and twenty-three feet in height, for the use of the lord 
 registrar, and various rooms for different officers of the 
 establishment, and for the accommodation of the clerks 
 of, and attached to or connected with, the courts of ses- 
 sion and justiciary. Within the quadrangle is a circular 
 saloon, fifty feet in diameter, rising from the centre of 
 the inclosure to the height of eighty feet, extending to 
 the sides of the quadrangle, and leaving at the angles 
 sufficient space for the admission of light. The walls 
 are divided into compartments by recesses for the recep- 
 tion of the public documents, to which facility of access 
 is afforded by a gallery round the interior ; and there is 
 a circular window, fifteen feet in diameter, in the centre 
 of the dome, which is richly ornamented in stucco. 
 From the saloon two grand staircases lead to the nume- 
 rous other apartments where the national records are 
 deposited. 
 
 Literary and Scientific Institutions. 
 
 The Royal Institution, situated at the north end 
 of the Earthen Mound, in Princes-street, is a spacious 
 structure erected in 1823, from a design by Mr. Playfair, 
 upon a foundation of wooden piles which the nature of 
 the ground rendered necessary for its security. It was 
 afterwards enlarged by rebuilding the south end, and ex- 
 tending the range of columns. The buildings are embel-
 
 EDI N 
 
 EDI N 
 
 lished in front and at the end with columns of the Doric 
 order, and are surmounted by a magnificent colossal 
 statue of Queen Victoria, executed by Mr. Steel, and 
 erected in 1844. They comprise a spacious gallery for 
 the exhibitions of the Royal Scottish Academy of paint- 
 ing, sculpture, and architecture, founded in 1826, and 
 incorporated by royal charter in 1838; and apartments 
 for the Royal Society of Edinburgh, instituted in 1783 ; 
 the Royal Institution for the encouragement of the fine 
 arts in Scotland, established in 1819, and incorporated 
 by royal charter in 1827 ; and the Board of Trustees 
 appointed by letters-patent in 1727, for the encourage- 
 ment of manufactures, &c., in Scotland. It was out of 
 the public funds under the management of this Board of 
 Trustees that the buildings were raised. The Royal 
 Scottish Society of Arts was founded in the year 1821, 
 and incorporated by royal charter in 1841. The Royal 
 Association for the Promotion of the Fine Arts in Scotland 
 was established in 1833, and incorporated by royal 
 charter in 1847. 
 
 The Society of Antiquaries, estahVtshed by royal charter 
 in the year 1780, has now its hall in George-street, con- 
 taining a museum of ancient armour, utensils, charters, 
 coins, &c. : it had formerly accommodation allotted to 
 it in the Royal Institution. The Astronomical Institution 
 was formed in 1812, in consequence of an eloquent ad- 
 dress then issued by the late Professor Playfair on the 
 importance of an astronomical observatory for Edin- 
 burgh. In 1818 the new Observatory was founded, con- 
 tiguous to the old one, on the Calton hill ; it is based 
 on the solid rock, and forms an elegant Doric structure, 
 after the model of the Grecian Temple of the Winds. 
 The professor of practical astronomy in the university 
 has apartments in the building, for his convenience in 
 making observations. Connected with the university 
 are the five following literary and scientific societies : the 
 Dialectic Society, for the prosecution of literary and phi- 
 losophical composition, criticism, and debate, which has 
 existed since 1*87, and probably was founded before that 
 period; the Scots Law Society, established in 1815 ; the 
 Diagnostic Society, established in 1816; the Hunterian 
 Medical Society, in 1824 ; and the Metaphysical Society, 
 in 1838. The Royal Physical Society was instituted in 
 1771, and chartered in 1788. There are, the Royal Me- 
 dical Society, noticed on a preceding page ; the Harveian 
 Socie<!/, founded in 1782 ; the Medico- Chirurgical Society, 
 in 1821 ; the Obstetrical Society, and the Phrenological 
 Society. The Philosophical Institution is intended to afford 
 the means not only of acquiring the fullest and most 
 authentic information on all topics of immediate or pass- 
 ing interest, but of cultivating and extending the growing 
 taste for science, art, and literature. For these ends 
 there are at present provided, a reading-room and library, 
 a newsroom, and the delivery of popular lectures. Other 
 institutions that may be mentioned are, the Speculative 
 Society, established in 1764 ; the Juridical Society, in 
 1773 ; theTheological Society, in 1776; and the School of 
 Arts, for the instruction of mechanics and tradesmen in 
 the elements of scientific knowledge, 1821. 
 
 The Royal Botanic Garden, on the Inverleith road, is 
 laid out with great taste, and at the same time with sci- 
 entific precision, embracing an area of fourteen acres and 
 a half, and presenting every facility for prosecuting the 
 study of botany. This noble garden is surrounded by 
 trees on the west, south, and east ; and on the right- 
 391 
 
 hand side of the entrance are the class-room of the pro- 
 fessor of botany in the university, and the house of the 
 superintendent. Before the purchase of the present 
 ground about twenty-five years ago, there was a botanic 
 garden on the west side of the road to Leith, formed in 
 1767; and at a still earlier period, in the latter part of 
 the seventeenth century, a garden had beon laid out near 
 the then Trinity Hospital, under the auspices of Sir An- 
 drew Balfour, and Sir Robert Sibbald, two zealous natu- 
 ralists. Sir Andrew Balfour, returning from abroad, and 
 settling in his native city in I67O, immediately began 
 the formation of a garden for his own private amusement; 
 and a few years afterwards, his friend Mr. Patrick Mur- 
 ray of Livingstone dying, and leaving a collection of a 
 thousand species of plants, a piece of ground about forty 
 feet square, in the north yards of the Abbey, was pro- 
 cured, and the plants were removed to that spot. The 
 collection still increasing, some ground was obtained 
 from the city magistrates near the Trinity Hospital, and 
 laid out, as above mentioned, under the care of Sir An- 
 drew Balfour and Sir Robert Sibbald, the original foun- 
 ders. From this early commencement has gradually 
 grown the present interesting collection of plants. An 
 annual grant is received from government. 
 
 Adjoining the Botanic Garden is the Caledonian Hor- 
 ticultural Society's Garden, a beautiful and interesting 
 piece of ground, comprising an area of ten acres. The 
 society was established in the year 1809, since which 
 period large sums have been annually expended in pro- 
 moting the production of new fruits, flowers, and vege- 
 tables, and encouraging the improvement and bringing 
 to maturity of those already introduced. In 1 824 ground 
 was purchased by government for an experimental gar- 
 den, and consigned to the society on a long and renew- 
 able lease. An annual grant of £200 a year was also 
 bestowed towards the support of the garden, to be con- 
 tinued so long as the members contribute £300 a year 
 for the same purpose. The gardens are furnished with 
 the necessary appliances for experiments in horticulture; 
 the various collections are arranged with care, and in the 
 centre of the grounds stands a spacious hall for the 
 society's meetings, in front of which is a fine lawn, where 
 several exhibitions of exoticf'plants annually take place. 
 A marble bust, by Steel, of the secretary, Dr. Neill, 
 adorns the hall. 
 
 The Royal Zoological Gardens, Broughton Park, are 
 pleasantly situated, and laid out with good taste. In 
 1838, a few individuals began a collection of living ani- 
 mals, which gradually increasing, an association was 
 formed, and a piece of ground procured ; the collection 
 is already considerable, and is constantly receiving addi- 
 tions. 
 
 On one side of George IV. Bridge is the Museum of 
 the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotlajid, con- 
 taining an extensive collection of agricultural implements 
 and produce, drawings of the various breeds of domestic 
 animals, a greenhouse, and, in short, every thing calcu- 
 lated to advance information in husbandry, and improve 
 the culture of the soil. The society was founded in 
 178.5, at first with the object of promoting agricultural 
 improvements in the Highlands, but subsequently its 
 plan was enlarged so as to comprehend the whole of 
 Scotland. A lectureship on agricultural chemistry has 
 been established in connexion with the society. The 
 Wernerian Natural-History Society was instituted in 1 808,
 
 EDIN 
 
 EDIN 
 
 by Professor Jameson and a few gentlemen devoted to 
 the study of natural history. There are also in Edin- 
 burgh, the Botanical Society, founded in 1836; and the 
 Geological Society. 
 
 The College Theological Library was instituted in 1 69S ; 
 the Edinburgh Subscription Library, in 1/94 ; the Select 
 Subscription, in ISOO; and the Architectural Subscrip- 
 tion Library, in 1832. There are, besides, the New Town 
 Subscription, and Mechanics' libraries ; and public sub- 
 scription reading-rooms. The libraries of the Faculty of 
 Advocates and the Writers to the Signet have been de- 
 scribed in a previous page. 
 
 The Assembly Rooms, in George-street, form an elegant 
 structure in the Roman style of architecture, having in 
 the principal front a projecting portico of four columns, 
 rising from a rusticated basement (forming a piazza, un- 
 der which are the entrances) to the whole height of the 
 building, and supporting a triangular pediment. The 
 ball-room, which is ninety-two feet long, forty-two feet 
 wide, and forty feet high, is tastefully decorated, and is 
 approached by two large staircases, which meet in a 
 lofty saloon in the middle of the building, which also 
 gives access to a spacious and very handsome Music 
 Hall lately erected at the back of, and immediately in 
 connexion with, the Assembly Rooms. This Hall was 
 completed at an expense, including the organ, of more 
 than £10,000; it is fitted up in a style of great splen- 
 dour, and measures 108 feet in length, by ninety-one feet 
 in breadth. The Theatre Royal, situated near the end of 
 the North bridge, was first opened in 1769. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 On the summit of the highest eminence on the Calton 
 hill, is the ill-designed monument to the memory of 
 Lord Nelson, completed in 1815, and forming a con- 
 spicuous object in the view of the city both by sea and 
 land. The structure consists of a lofty cylindrical tower 
 of several stages, rising from the centre of a heptagonal 
 building flanked at the angles with projecting embattled 
 turrets, to the height of 100 feet, and surmounted by an 
 embattled circular turret, from which springs a flag-staff. 
 Above the entrance is the (^st of Lord Nelson, with the 
 stern of the San Josef, in basso-relievo, beneath which is 
 a tablet with an appropriate inscription. The building 
 around the base is occupied as a tavern. From the 
 summit of the tower is obtained a truly magnificent view, 
 reaching to the German Ocean, and comprehending the 
 extensive and interesting tract of country to the west. 
 The National Monument, of which the first stone 
 was laid by the Duke of Hamilton in 1822, under the 
 patronage of King George IV., and which occupies a 
 commanding eminence on the same hill, was commenced 
 by subscription in commemoration of the Scottish naval 
 and military ofiicers who fell in the battles consequent 
 on the French revolution. The design was furnished by 
 Mr. Playfair, and was intended to be a perfect model of 
 the Parthenon at Athens ; but, the amount of the sub- 
 scriptions having been all expended in the erection of 
 twelve magnificent columns, the works were abandoned, 
 and the memorial left in an unfinished state. In 1S4S, 
 however, an act of parliament was passed, to amend the 
 act which in the reign of George IV. had incorporated 
 the contributors. Powers were given by this measure 
 to raise new subscriptions for carrying on the work, and 
 392 
 
 the act declared that the monument should no longer be 
 restricted to the objects specified in the former act, but 
 should be devoted " to the purpose of a receptacle or 
 gallery for monumental busts and statues, or other me- 
 morials of great and distinguished persons of all nations 
 and periods". The architecture and decorations were to 
 be those already approved, but liberty was allowed by 
 the act to the directors and association to alter them as 
 might seem expedient. On Calton hill are also the mo- 
 numents of Professor Playfair, near the Observatory, 
 and of Professor Dugald Stewart, overlooking the 
 Regent's bridge ; both structures of elegant appearance, 
 designed by Mr. Playfair. Upon the edge of another 
 part of the hill, opposite the High School buildings, is 
 the monument recently erected in honour of the poet 
 Burns. This is a handsome circular structure, rising 
 from an octagonal base with numerous appropriate in- 
 scriptions, and surrounded by Corinthian columns sup- 
 porting a highly-enriched entablature and cornice, sur- 
 mounted by an attic and a pedestal and figure. Within 
 was for some time to be seen a beautifully-sculptured 
 statue of the poet by Flaxman, but this now adorns the 
 university library. The whole of the monument is ela- 
 borately embellished with emblematical sculpture, in 
 which the lyre is predominant. The monument of the 
 historian David Hume, a massive circular tower, is like- 
 wise situated on the Calton hill, in the cemetery over- 
 looking the Old Town. Within a few yards of this 
 monument, and also in the Calton burying-ground, is 
 the obelisk called the Martyrs' Monument, erected by 
 subscription, to commemorate the political opinions and 
 the fate of Muir, Palmer, Gerrald, Skirving, and Mar- 
 garot, who figured at the close of the last century. The 
 first stone was laid by Mr. Joseph Hume, M.P., on the 
 21st of August, 1S44, and the inelegant erection was 
 finished in the course of the year 1845. 
 
 The monument erected in 1828 to the memory of 
 Lord Melville, in the centre of St. Andrew's square, 
 is a fluted column 136 feet in height, above the capital 
 of which is a colossal statue of his lordship, the whole 
 raised chiefly by subscription of gentlemen connected 
 with the navy as a tribute of respect to his memory. 
 To the east of the square, in a recess in front of the 
 Royal Bank of Scotland, is a bronze statue of General 
 the Earl of Hoi'etoun by T. Campbell, leaning on a 
 charger, and placed on a pedestal, erected in 1835 in 
 grateful remembrance of his military services. At the 
 intersection of George-street and Hanover-street is a 
 colossal statue, in bronze, of George IV., by Chantrey, 
 raised in 1 832, in commemoration of His Majesty's visit ; 
 and at the intersection of George-street and Frederick- 
 street, in a line with the former, is a similar bronze 
 statue of William Pitt, by the same artist. In the 
 centre of the Parliament-square is the equestrian statue 
 of Charles II., referred to in a previous page, and which 
 is deserving of notice for its vigour of design, and general 
 effect. 
 
 Opposite to the extremity of St. David street, in Princes- 
 terrace, and finely situated in the gardens of the North 
 Loch, is the superb monument to Sir Walter Scott, 
 erected from the designs of the late Mr. George M. 
 Kemp. This truly splendid and elaborately-enriched 
 structure rises to the height of 200 feet, from a base 
 fifty-five feet square, in a series of gradually diminishing 
 towers in the decorated EngUsh style. These towers 
 
 f 
 I
 
 ED I N 
 
 ED I N 
 
 are strengthened by panelled buttresses, terminating in 
 crocketed pinnacles with flowered finials ; the buttresses 
 are connected by flying buttresses of scroll-work, and 
 have angular turrets adorned with canopied shrines, and 
 springing from pierced parapets. From the angles of 
 the principal or lowest tower, in which is enshrined a 
 fine statue of the poet by Steel, are boldly projecting tur- 
 rets, of similar character but very much larger, connected 
 with the main building by lofty and sharply-pointed 
 arches, richly moulded, and crowned with ogee canopies 
 of feather-work. The roof of the tower is delicately 
 groined, and is supported by four piers of slender clus- 
 tered columns with flowered capitals, between which are 
 four spacious and graceful arches affording access to the 
 interior, to which is an ascent by flights of steps from 
 the base between the turrets that project from the angles 
 of the monument. A staircase of 287 steps conducts to 
 the gallery at the top. In each front of the monument, 
 above the principal arch, are six small niches, making a 
 total of twenty-four in the main structure, besides thirty- 
 two others in the piers and abutment towers. These 
 niches are to be occupied by sculptural impersonations 
 of the characters, historical and fanciful, pourtrayed in 
 the writings of Sir Walter. The following statues fill 
 the four principal niches which crown the four lowest 
 arches. In the northern niche, facing Princes-street, is 
 the statue of Prince Charles (from IVaverlei/) drawing 
 his sword ; in the eastern niche, on the side next the 
 Calton hill, Meg Merrilies (from Guy Mannering) break- 
 ing the sapling over the head of Lucy Bertram. Both 
 these were modelled and sculptured by Mr. A. H. Ritchie. 
 The southern niche, ne.xt the Old Town, contains the 
 statue of the Lady of the Lake stepping from a boat to 
 the shore : this was modelled by Mr. Peter Slater, and 
 sculptured by his relative of the same name. In the 
 western niche is the Last Minstrel playing on his harp, 
 a work modelled and sculptured by Mr. James Ritchie. 
 The foundation of the Scott Monument was laid on Au- 
 gust 15th, 1S40, being the anniversary of Sir Walter's 
 birthday, and the building was finished in 1844 : the 
 four statues were raised in the following year, and the 
 fine marble statue of the novelist, underneath the centre 
 of the tower, was placed there on August 15th, 1846. 
 
 In the ravine of the Water of Leith, below Dean bridge, 
 is a handsome Doric temple, consisting of columns sup- 
 porting a circular dome, and in which is placed a statue 
 of Hygeia, of colossal dimensions, on a pedestal. The 
 structure is erected over St. Bernard's well, a mineral 
 spring near the margin of the river, and forms an inter- 
 esting and pleasing feature in the scenery. 
 
 Lighting, &c. 
 
 The streets of the city are well lighted with gas from 
 extensive works in the North-Back of the Canongate, 
 erected by a company of shareholders incorporated under 
 an act of parliament in 1818, with a capital of £100,000, 
 subscribed in £25 shares. In 1839 a new gas company 
 was formed, the subscribers to which purchased the 
 Leith gas-works : they were incorporated by act of par- 
 liament ; and pipes being laid down by the company 
 throughout the streets of Edinburgh, while the works 
 are carried on at Leith, they thus afford a siipply to both 
 towns. A water-company was incorporated in 1819, 
 with a capital of £253,000, also in shares of £25 each. 
 Vol. I.— 393 
 
 Previously to the establishment of this company, the 
 water was brought from Comiston ; but, the supply being 
 very inadequate to the increased extent of the town, it is 
 now conveyed from more copious springs at Crawley and 
 Glencross, about eight miles distant, into capacious re- 
 servoirs, at the Castle hill for the northern, and near 
 Heriot's hospital for the southern, districts ; whence it is 
 distributed by pipes to the houses. The various works 
 for this purpose were completed at a cost of more than 
 £200,000 ; and a large compensation reservoir has also 
 been constructed in the valley of the Logan water, be- 
 tween two ranges of the Pentland hills, for the supply of 
 the different mills and factories in that district. The 
 quantity of water, however, being still insufficient, and 
 its quality inferior, the company are now engaged in 
 bringing an additional supply from the west side of the 
 hills ; and an act of parliament has been passed for a 
 better supply of water to the city. The markets, which 
 are spacious and well adapted for their object, are abun- 
 dantly furnished with all kinds of provisions, and every 
 variety of luxuries ; and from the vicinity of the Forth, 
 fish of all sorts is plentiful, and of moderate price. The 
 new Corn Exchange was opened on the 5th December, 
 1849. Coal of excellent quality is obtained in the sur- 
 rounding districts, and the Union canal and the railways 
 afford every facility for its conveyance. 
 
 Railways, and Canal. 
 
 The Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway was commenced 
 under the authority of an act of parliament which re- 
 ceived the royal assent on the 4th of July, 1838. The 
 work was begun at the Almond valley in October 1838, 
 and the line was opened to the public, from the Hay- 
 market, at the western extremity of Edinburgh, to Glas- 
 gow, on the 21st of February, 1842. In 1844 an act 
 was passed empowering the company to bring the line 
 into the heart of the city, and make a terminus at the 
 North Bridge, in the immense hollow that separates the 
 Old and New Towns. This station was completed in 
 May 1S47, and contributes to form one of the most re- 
 markable features in the metropolis. On the west side 
 of the North Bridge are the stations of the Edinburgh 
 and Glasgow and the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee 
 railway companies, while on the east side is the station 
 of the North-British railway company, the whole pre- 
 senting one grand, connected centre of railway com- 
 munication. The Glasgow line proceeds from the ter- 
 minus, in a direction parallel with Princes-street, along 
 the bottom of the romantic hollow forming the Princes- 
 street gardens. Almost immediately on emerging from 
 under the bridge over the Waverley road, the line enters 
 a tunnel under the huge mass of earth called the Earthen 
 Mound, and then arrives at the West gardens, where 
 the railway train passes close to the stupendous and 
 abrupt ridge of rock on which stands the Castle of Edin- 
 burgh, at an altitude of nearly 300 feet above the line. 
 After this peculiarly striking course along an urban 
 valley among the trees, beneath an ancient fortress, the 
 railway train suddenly plunges into the tunnel which 
 conducts to the first station on the lino, at the Hay- 
 market, the original terminus, which is a mile and a 
 half distant from the present terminus. Here there are 
 various buildings connected with the line ; after passing 
 which, a delightful country is opened up. 
 
 3 E
 
 ED I N 
 
 ED I N 
 
 The North- British Railway was sanctioned by an act 
 which received the royal assent in July 1844, and the 
 works were commenced in September of the same year. 
 The main line, with a branch to Haddington, was opened 
 on the 18th of June 1S46. Whilst the railway above 
 described proceeds westward from the Edinburgh central 
 station, a distance of forty-seven miles and a half, to 
 Glasgow, the North-British railway, starting from the 
 same point, passes in an eastern direction and then 
 southwards, for nearly fifty-eight miles, to Berwick-upon- 
 Tweed. Proceeding from the North Bridge, the line is 
 carried across the North-Back of the Canongate by a 
 very remarkable iron skew-bridge, of seventy feet span, 
 rising eighteen feet above the level of the street. This 
 bridge crosses the line of street at an angle of only 
 twenty degrees and a half, thus exceeding in obliquity, 
 by one-fifth, the celebrated skew-bridge over Fairfield- 
 street, Manchester, on the Manchester and Birmingham 
 railway, which has an angle of twenty-four degrees and 
 a half. Immediately afterwards, the railway forms a 
 tunnel of 420 yards, commencing at the southern spur 
 of the Calton hill, in front of the High School, and ter- 
 minating at the east gate of the gaol. On quitting this 
 tunnel, the line runs along an embankment towards the 
 Abbey hill, and is conveyed over the road by a viaduct 
 of iron beams, supported by a stone pier erected in the 
 middle of the street. At some distance further on, are 
 the engine-sheds, shops, and warehouses of the com- 
 pany ; and behind the Piershill cavalry barracks is a 
 wall screen not less than forty-si.x feet in height, raised 
 to protect the powder magazine in the barracks from igni- 
 tion by the sparks of the passing engine :. this screen 
 forms perhaps the highest wall of the kind in Britain. 
 At Portobello, three miles distant from the terminus, 
 the important branch to Hawick, Kelso, and other towns, 
 diverges from the railway. This and other branches 
 were formed under special acts of parliament, and opened 
 subsequently to the main line. 
 
 The Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee Railway, the first 
 act for which was passed in July 1845, has its terminus, 
 as already observed, on the west side of the North 
 Bridge. The line incorporates the Edinburgh, Leith, 
 and Granton railway ; which was opened as the New- 
 haven railway, from Scotland-street to Trinity pier on 
 the Firth of Forth, in 1843 ; and as the Leith and Gran- 
 ton railway, from the North Bridge to Leith and to 
 Granton pier, in 1847. Commencing at the grand ter- 
 minus, the Granton line proceeds northward by a tunnel 
 under St. Andrew's street. Duke-street, Dublin-street, 
 Drummond-place, and Scotland-street ; the tunnel is 
 1000 yards in length, twenty-four feet wide, and seven- 
 teen feet high, and at its northern extremity is a station. 
 Soon afterwards the line enters another tunnel, a very 
 short one, under the turnpike-roads, &c., immediately 
 east of Canonmills, emerging near Heriothill. Hence 
 proceeding in the same direction, the railway crosses 
 the Water of Leith, after which the branch to Leith 
 diverges eastward, the Granton line continuing its course 
 northward, by the cemetery at Warriston, to the station 
 at Newbank, Trinity, where it curves to the west for 
 Granton pier, on the Firth of Forth. The Edinburgh, 
 Leith, and Grauton railway is fully amalgamated with the 
 Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee ; and from the noble pier 
 at Granton the company's passengers for the north are 
 conveyed across the Firth to Burntisland. 
 ' 394 
 
 The Caledonian Railway, whose terminus in Edinburgh 
 is in the Lothian-road, not far from the castle, was au- 
 thorized by an act of parliament passed in July 1845. 
 The first sod was turned on the Beatock summit in the 
 following month of August ; the foundation stone of the 
 Edinburgh station was laid with masonic honours in 
 April 184" ; the line was opened from Beatock to Car- 
 lisle in the September following, and the remaining por- 
 tions in February 184S. This great national undertaking, 
 besides minor branches, comprises two main lines, one 
 from Edinburgh, the other from Glasgow, which meet 
 near Lanark, and thence form a grand trunk line to 
 Carlisle. Thus, the Scottish metropolis is connected 
 with the western counties of England by the Caledonian 
 railway, as it is with the eastern counties by the North- 
 British railway. An act was passed in 184" authorizing 
 the Caledonian company to extend their station in Edin- 
 burgh, to make a branch of four miles to Granton, and 
 three very short branches to the Edinburgh and Glasgow- 
 railway. 
 
 The Union Canal was projected in 1817, and, after 
 considerable opposition, was begun in 1818 by a joint- 
 stock company, and finished in 1822, at an expense 
 amounting to nearly £400,000. lu 1849 an act was 
 passed vesting it in the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway 
 Company. It commences at Port-Hopetoun Basin, at 
 the south end of the Lothian-road, Edinburgh, and is 
 carried through the parishes of St. Cuthbert, Colinton, 
 Currie, Ratho, and part of Kirkliston, in this county ; 
 those of LTphall, part of Kirkliston, Dalmeny, Abercorn, 
 and Linlithgow, in, the county of Linlithgow ; and 
 Muiravonside, Polmont, and Falkirk, in the county of 
 Stirling. It terminates in junction with the Forth and 
 Clyde (or Glasgow) canal at Port-Downie, near Falkirk, 
 a distance of thirty-one and a half miles from its com- 
 mencement. In its course it is carried by extensive 
 aqueducts over the Water of Leith, the Almond, and the 
 Avon, and passes through Prospect-hill tunnel, cut out 
 of the solid rock for 696 yards ; preserving its level to 
 within a mile of its junction with the Forth and Clyde 
 canal, whence it falls 110 feet by a series of eleven locks. 
 The width of the canal at the surface is forty feet ; at 
 the bottom, twenty feet ; and its depth is five feet. The 
 aqueduct over the Leith at Slateford consists of eight 
 arches ; its height is sixty-five feet, and its length 500 : 
 that over the Avon is still more extensive. On the 
 banks along the line are numerous villages, and it ap- 
 proaches close to the royal burgh of Linlithgow. 
 
 Municipal Affairs. 
 
 From a charter of David I. bestowing on the monks 
 of Holyrood Abbey certain endowments payable out of 
 "his burgh of Edwinesburg", the town appears to have 
 been constituted a royal burgh at least as early as the 
 reign of that monarch ; and at a very remote period the 
 city was one of the four principal burghs, whose com- 
 missioners, with the chamberlain of Scotland, constituted 
 the "court of the four burghs", for superintending the 
 affairs of the royal burghs. Under charters granted by 
 the successors of David, confirming to the inhabitants 
 his grant of a large portion of the forest lands in the 
 immediate vicinity of the castle, the citizens had various 
 privileges, including a license to trade, and to exact tolls 
 and customs of all merchandise and traffic within the
 
 ED I N 
 
 EDI N 
 
 burgh ; to which James III. by charter added the liberty 
 of appointing a sheriff with extensive jurisdiction. Nu- 
 merous additional immunities were conferred on the 
 burgesses by other kings, and ratified and enlarged by 
 succeeding nionarchs, especially by James VI., who by 
 charter granted to the provost, bailies, and council the 
 site of the city and all its appendages, and the hereditary 
 offices of sheriff and coroner, with ample civil and cri- 
 minal jurisdiction within this burgh, Leith, and New- 
 haven. The provost was declared high-sheriff and co- 
 roner, and the bailies conjointly and severally were his 
 deputy sheriffs and coroners ; and the whole of the 
 escheats, fines, and amercements in their jurisdiction 
 were constituted part of the common property of the 
 city. King James's charter, which was called the 
 "Golden charter", was confirmed by Charles I.; but 
 many of the privileges, being thought to derogate un- 
 reasonably from the prerogative of the crown, were vo- 
 luntarily surrendered by the corporation in 1630, and a 
 new charter, differing but slightly from that of James 
 VI., except in those instances thought objectionable, was 
 granted in 1636, and continued to be the governing 
 charter till the reign of William IV. 
 
 The management of the municipal affairs is vested in 
 four public bodies, namely, the town council, the police 
 board, the road trustees, and the county prison board. 
 The town council consists of thirty-three members, of 
 whom thirty-one are chosen by the parliamentary voters 
 qualified within the royalty ; the remaining two, being 
 the dean of guild and the convener of the trades, are 
 elected respectively by the guild-brethren of the city 
 and the deacons of the incorporated trades. Out of 
 their own number, the whole council appoint a lord pro- 
 vost, four bailies, and a treasurer ; and these officers, 
 with the dean of guild, constitute the magistracy. The 
 provost is dignified with the title of the Right Honour- 
 able, and in the city takes precedence, on public occa- 
 sions, of all the great officers of state and of the nobility, 
 walking on the right hand of the king or his commis- 
 sioner, and having a sword of state and a mace borne 
 before him. He is also admiral, and the bailies are 
 admirals-depute, over the city and liberties, and the 
 town, harbour, and road (anchorage) of Leith. The 
 council are superiors of the burgh-of-regality of Canon- 
 gate, and of the burghs-of-barony of Easter and Wester 
 Portsburgh ; over which they appoint certain of their 
 number as baron-bailies, and also two burgesses of 
 Canongate, and two inhabitants of Portsburgh, as resi- 
 dent bailies. The bailies of Canongate exercise the same 
 legal jurisdiction within the limits of their district as 
 magistrates of royal burghs ; but the bailies of Ports- 
 burgh perform only the petty duties to which the bailies 
 of all burghs of barony are now restricted. Formerly 
 the council used to appoint the magistrates of Leith ; 
 but since 1833 these have been elected by a town 
 council in that place, and the council of Edinburgh dele- 
 gate to them annually their jurisdiction of admiralty 
 over the town and road of Leith. The Merchant Com- 
 pany was incorporated by royal charter in 16S1, and 
 ratified by act of parliament in 1793 ; each of the mem- 
 bers pays on admission a fee of £63, besides contributing 
 to a widows' fund, established in 1828. It has, however, 
 never been acknowledged by the town council as one of 
 the city corporations ; and its members, as such, have 
 never enjoyed any municipal privileges. The acknow- 
 395 
 
 ledged corporations, possessed of municipal privileges, 
 are fourteen in number, the surgeons, goldsmiths, skin- 
 ners, furriers, hammermen, wrights, masons, tailors, 
 bakers, fleshers, cordiners, websters, waulkers, and bon- 
 net-makers. The members of these incorporations pos- 
 sess the exclusive right of exercising their respective 
 professions and trades within the ancient royalty of the 
 city ; and formerly their presidents, bearing the title of 
 deacons, were members of the town council. Their pri- 
 vileges, however, are of little value, as the New Town is 
 entirely free from municipal restrictions of that kind ; 
 the incorporations are dwindling away, and most of them 
 will probably be soon extinct. The late Police Board of 
 the city consisted of thirty-two commissioners elected 
 annually by the ratepayers, and of seventeen public 
 officers, including the provost, the magistrates of the 
 city and Canongate, and the sheriff of the county and 
 his substitutes. In 1848, however, an act was passed 
 for more effectually watching, cleansing, and lighting 
 the streets of Edinburgh and the adjoining districts. 
 By this act, matters of police are assigned to the ma- 
 nagement of a new board or commission, consisting of 
 the provost and bailies, the sheriff and one substitute, 
 and thirty-two general commissioners annually elected, 
 one being chosen by each of the tliirty-two wards formed 
 by the act. There are two resident commissioners in 
 each ward, also annually elected, who, with the general 
 commissioner, have the powers of constables ; the gene- 
 ral commissioners, and in their absence the resident, 
 being head constables, intrusted with the carrying out 
 of the provisions of the statute, and with the preserva- 
 tion of the peace. The act confers the requisite autho- 
 rity for levying assessments, the appointment of officers, 
 &c. The County Prison Board consists of eighteen mem- 
 bers chosen by the town councils of Edinburgh, Leith, 
 Musselburgh, and Portobello, and the magistrates of the 
 shire ; and has the care of all the prisons, bridewells, 
 and other places of confinement within the city and 
 county of Edinburgh, under the control of the general 
 board of directors of prisons in Scotland, who are ap- 
 pointed by the crown. The lord provost of the city and 
 the sheriff of the county are members ex-officio of the 
 board. 
 
 The magistrates, with the powers of sheriff, preside 
 weekly in a bailie court, the jurisdiction of which com- 
 prises the ancient and extended royalty, and the barony 
 of Portsburgh. They also sit in the police court, chiefly 
 for the trial of petty offences, the more serious causes 
 being remitted for trial to the sheriff or high court of 
 justiciary. There is a court called the Ten Merks court, 
 for the determination of civil actions not exceeding ten 
 merks, in which a summary process is observed ; and a 
 court for the recovery of debts not exceeding £3. 6. 8. 
 is also held by the magistrates, under the provisions of 
 an act of the 40th of George III. A dean-of-guild court 
 is held weekly before the dean, assisted by a council 
 annually nominated by the town council. The jurisdic- 
 tion of the court of admiralty extends over the whole of 
 the county of the city, which includes the ancient and 
 extended royalty, Leith, Canongate, and Portsburgh, 
 and that part of the Firth of Forth lying between a line 
 drawn from Wardie Brow to the Mickrie Stone on the 
 west, a line drawn from the shore to the east of Inchkeith 
 on the east, and the middle of the Firth of Forth on the 
 north. 
 
 3E2
 
 E D 1 N 
 
 The Cou7itii Hall, situated in the Lawnmarket, is an 
 elegant structure in the Grecian style of architecture. 
 It has a stately portico of four fluted Ionic columns 
 rising to the roof of the building, and supporting a 
 triangular pediment ; and on each side of the portico, 
 to which is an ascent by a flight of steps, the front is 
 embellished with pilasters of the same order. From its 
 ill-chosen site, the building loses much of its architec- 
 tural interest. The interior comprises a spacious hall 
 for the county meetings, fifty-six feet long, twenty-six 
 feet wide, and twenty-six feet high ; a court-room forty- 
 three feet in length, and twenty-nine feet wide, with a 
 gallery at the south end ; apartments for the accommo- 
 dation of the judges, magistrates, witnesses, and others 
 attending the sessions ; and various offices. The Old 
 Tolbooth, in which sessions of parliament, the meet- 
 ings of the College of Justice, and the various courts 
 were formerly held ; in which the public business of the 
 corporation was transacted, and the civic banquets and 
 other festivities took place ; and in which, also, were the 
 city and county gaols and the debtors' prison, was taken 
 down in 1817, a new Gaol having been erected on the 
 Calton hill, at a cost of nearly £30,000. Of this sum, 
 £10,000 were granted by government, £8000 from the 
 city, £5000 from the county, and the remainder raised 
 by assessment. From the period of its erection in 1561 
 until the year 1640, the Tolbooth served for the accom- 
 modation of parliament and the courts of justice, as well 
 as for the confinement of prisoners ; but after the erec- 
 tion of the present parliament-house, it was employed 
 only as a prison. Its situation, in the middle of the 
 High-street, at the north-west corner of St. Giles's 
 church, was signally inconvenient. The great entrance- 
 door, with its ponderous padlock and key, was removed 
 to Abbotsford, the seat of Sir Walter Scott, where it is 
 now to be seen, with the other curiosities of the place : 
 "it is not without interest", observes Sir Walter, "that 
 we see the gateway through which so much of the stormy 
 politics of a rude age, and the vice and misery of later 
 times, had found their passage, now occupied in the 
 service of rural economy ". The Tolbooth was some- 
 times called by the inhabitants " The Heart of Mid- 
 Lothian", and under this name has become renowned in 
 the novel of Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 The Bridewell, which is situated on the Calton hill, 
 nearly behind the gaol, was erected in 1796, after a de- 
 sign by Mr. Robert Adam, at an expense of £11,794, 
 raised by subscription and assessments, aided by a grant 
 from government. The buildings, consisting of a semi- 
 circular range, in front of which is the governor's house, 
 are five stories in height, and comprise fifty-two work- 
 ing-rooms and 144 sleeping-cells, some of which are ap- 
 propriated to prisoners sentenced to solitary confine- 
 ment. The new Debtors' Gaol, on Calton hill, recently 
 erected, is in what may be called the castellated Norman 
 style, and presents in its general composition an upright 
 group of variously-shaped towers, rising above the ex- 
 ternal wall of inclosure, and so disposed as to produce 
 much picturesque effect of outline from different points 
 of view. The Canongate Tolbooth, an ancient structure, 
 includes a common room, eight sleeping apartments, 
 and rooms for the governor of the prison : the front 
 towards the street has a low tower with angular tur- 
 rets, between which is a clock, and is surmounted by a 
 small spire. 
 396 
 
 Arms. 
 
 EDI N 
 
 History and Government of the University. 
 
 The University was origi- 
 nally founded by the town 
 council, to whom Mary, 
 Queen of Scots, granted for 
 that purpose the sites and re- 
 mains of the several ancient 
 religious houses within the 
 city, together with the lands 
 and revenues in various parts 
 of the kingdom. This gift 
 was confirmed by James VI., 
 who also bestowed a license 
 to erect schools and houses 
 for the students within the precincts of the monastic 
 demesnes, and to receive benefactions and bequests of 
 land and other property for its endowment, as well as 
 to elect professors, with ample powers to remove them 
 as they might think fit ; all which grants, together with 
 others by the same monarch, were subsequently ratified 
 by act of parliament. The town council, having like- 
 wise received a bequest of 8000 roerks from Robert 
 Reid, Bishop of Orkney, for the purpose of founding a 
 college in the city, began, in 1581, to erect buildings 
 appropriate for an institution of the kind in the southern 
 district of the town, within the precincts of the ancient 
 collegiate Kirk of Field. In 1583, the buildings were so 
 far advanced that the town council chose Robert Rollock, 
 formerly of St. Salvator's college in the university of St. 
 Andrew's, as professor in their college of Edinburgh ; 
 and his talents and popularity soon attracted a con- 
 siderable number of students. After the appointment 
 of other professors, the town council elected Mr. Rollock 
 principal, in 1586 : the institution steadily increasing in 
 reputation and importance, additional professorships 
 were created, and the establishment from that time ra- 
 pidly advanced in prosperity. James VI. subsequently 
 granted certain church lands and tithes in the counties 
 of Lothian and Fife for its further endowment ; and for 
 its due regulation the town council founded an annual 
 visitation by a committee of sixteen of their own body, 
 with five of the ministers of Edinburgh, and three ad- 
 vocates, who made their first inspection in I6l4. The 
 town council continued these annual visitations till 
 1640, when they appointed a rector of the university to 
 superintend the management. 
 
 During the parliamentary war in the reign of Charles I., 
 the progress of the university met with no interruption ; 
 and Cromwell, in his protectorate, endowed it with an 
 annuity of £"200. After the Restoration, many of the 
 students were strongly imbued with the principles of 
 the Covenant, and, on the visit of the Duke of York, 
 afterwards James II., to Edinburgh, made preparations 
 for a public procession for the purpose of displaying 
 their inveterate abhorrence of the Roman Catholic re- 
 ligion, by burning an effigy of the pope. To prevent 
 this outrage to the feelings of the Duke of York, the 
 magistrates despatched a party of soldiers, when a vio- 
 lent tumult took place between the military and the 
 students, the latter aided by the populace ; seven of the 
 rioters were apprehended and lodged in prison, but 
 after a few days were liberated. With the view of sup- 
 pressing these feelings, Charles II. appointed a visitation 
 
 1
 
 ED I N 
 
 EDI N 
 
 to be held in the university by the Bishop of Edinburgh, 
 the lord provost and magistrates of the city, and others, 
 enjoining them to make their report in 1683; but the 
 result is not known. Not long before the Revolution ia 
 1688, another visitation was held for the same purpose, 
 when a sentence of deprivation was passed upon the 
 principal and one of the professors ; but since the acces- 
 sion of William III., the internal policy of the univer- 
 sity has been free from all similar interference. In 1768, 
 a memorial was presented for rebuilding the university ; 
 but the breaking out of the American war suspended all 
 further proceedings towards that undertaking. After 
 the peace, however, it was again proposed, in 1*86 ; and 
 the magistrates having raised a subscription, a plan was 
 designed by Robert Adam for rebuilding it upon the 
 same site ; and the first stone of the present structure 
 was laid with great ceremony by Lord Napier, grand 
 master mason of Scotland, on the I6th of November, 
 1789. 
 
 The affairs of the university are under the superin- 
 tendence of the town council, by whom the principal 
 and professors are chiefly appointed, and of a senatus 
 academicus, assisted by a secretary, librarian, curator 
 of the museum, and other officers. Of the numerous 
 PROFESSORSHIPS founded at various periods, that of 
 humanity, established in 1597, is in the patronage of 
 the Lords of Session, the Town Council, the Faculty of 
 Advocates, and the Society of Writers to the Signet. 
 The Town Council alone present to the professorships of 
 Greek, founded in 1708; logic and metaphysics, in the 
 same year; mathematics, in 1674; moral philosophy 
 and political economy, in 1708 ; natural philosophy, in 
 1708; divinity, in 1620; oriental languages, in 164'2 ; 
 theory of physic, in 1685 ; dietetics, materia raedica, and 
 pharmacy, in I768 ; chemistry and chemical pharmacy, 
 in 1713 ; surgery, in 1831 ; practice of physic, in 1685 ; 
 anatomy and physiology, in 1705 ; general pathology, 
 in 1831 ; midwifery and diseases of women and children, 
 in 1726; and clinical medicine, in 1741. The profes- 
 sorships of practical astronomy, founded in I786 ; rhe- 
 toric and belles-lettres, in 1762 ; divinity and ecclesias- 
 tical history, in 1695; public law, in 1707; medical 
 jurisprudence and police, in 1807 ; clinical surgery, in 
 1803 ; military surgery, in 1806 ; and natural history, 
 in 1767, are all in the gift of the Crown. The profes- 
 sorship of universal history, founded in 1719, is in the 
 patronage of the Faculty of Advocates and the Town 
 Council ; that of agriculture, established in 1790, in the 
 patronage of the Lords of Session, the Barons of the 
 Exchequer, the Town Council, and the Senatus Acade- 
 micus. Music, founded in 1839, is presented to by the 
 Principal and Professors. Those of civil law, founded 
 in 1710, and of the law of Scotland, in 1719, are in the 
 gift of the Faculty of Advocates and the Town Council. 
 That of conveyancing, in 1825, is in the patronage of 
 the Town Council, and Deputy Keeper and Society of 
 Writers to the Signet ; and that of botany, in I676, is 
 in the patronage of the Crown and the Town Council. 
 Attached to the university are eighty bursaries, varying 
 in value from £5 to £100 per annum, of which last sum 
 there are three ; six are of £30 ; ten of £20 ; aud their 
 aggregate value is £1 172 per annum. The winter ses- 
 sion commences on the first Tuesday in November, and 
 closes at the end of April ; the summer session begins 
 on the first Monday of May, and terminates at the end 
 397 
 
 of July. The number who graduated in medicine in the 
 year 1806 was 37 ; in 1816, 76 ; in 1826, 118; in 1836, 
 123 ; in 1844, 66; and in 1849, 51. The number who 
 graduated in arts, in 1849, was 12. 
 
 Buildings of the University. 
 
 The rebuilding of the university, already referred to, 
 was greatly retarded by want of adequate funds. Though 
 commenced in 1789, little more than the east front and 
 part of the north-west range was raised till the year 
 1815, when government granted an annual sum of 
 £10,000 ; a committee was now appointed for its com- 
 pletion, and the structure was proceeded with, after Mr. 
 Adam's plan above mentioned, with nvimerous varia- 
 tions, principally in the internal arrangements, by Mr. 
 Playfair. The buildings are in a mixed style of archi- 
 tecture, and of a quadrangular form, measuring 358 feet 
 by 255, with a spacious court in the centre. The east 
 front, the line of which is broken by slight projections 
 in the centre and at each extremity, is embellished with 
 a stately portico of two duplicated Doric columns, formed 
 each of one entire block, rising to the height of twenty- 
 six feet, and supporting an entablature aud balu.strade, 
 above which is a large tablet with an appropriate in- 
 scription. The buildings around the area of the qua- 
 drangle are variously ornamented with close rustic ar- 
 cades, and attached columns and pilasters : flights of 
 steps lead to the hall of the senatus academicus, the 
 library, the museum, and the several class-rooms, which 
 are all of spacious dimensions, and many of them ele- 
 gantly decorated. 
 
 The Library is 1 87 feet in length, and fifty feet in 
 width ; the roof, richly embellished in stucco, is sus- 
 tained by noble ranges of pillars, behind which are the 
 recesses for the reception of the books. The collection, 
 now containing more than 100,000 volumes, originated 
 in a bequest by Mr. Clement Little, advocate, who in 
 1580 left his library, for the use of the citizens, to the 
 care of the town council, by whom it was deposited in 
 the university. It has been gradually augmented by 
 purchases, and donations ; by the presentation, under 
 the copyright act, of a free copy of every work printed 
 in Great Britain ; and by the payment of £5 towards its 
 increase by each of the professors on his appointment, 
 and a sovereign by each of the students on his matricu- 
 lation. The privilege of receiving free copies of works is 
 now commuted for an annual grant. In the library are 
 also some valuable paintings bequeathed to the uni- 
 versity by Sir James Erskine, of Torry, Bart., various 
 portraits of continental and other reformers, and an in- 
 teresting collection of ancient sculptures and other anti- 
 quities. The Museum occupies a lower and an upper 
 room, each ninety feet long and thirty feet wide. The 
 lower room contains principally specimens of the larger 
 quadrupeds and other animals. The upper room, which 
 is elegantly fitted up, and lighted from the roof, com- 
 prises a beautiful collection of more than 3000 British 
 aud foreign birds, carefully arranged, including a large 
 number of stuffed birds lately purchased by the univer- 
 sity from Mr. Dufresne, of Paris. On the tables are 
 numerous glass-cases containing shells, insects, and 
 other natural curiosities of a small size ; aud in the 
 galleries and less extensive apartments communicating 
 with the principal room, are various specimens of mi-
 
 EDIN 
 
 ED I N 
 
 nerals, scientifically arranged by Professor Jameson, 
 who, on his appointment to the chair of natural history, 
 presented to the university his own prirate collection, to 
 which an addition was made by the late Dr. Thompson, 
 of Naples. The Anatomical Museum contains a very 
 large collection of valuable specimens and anatomical 
 preparations, the greater number presented by the grand- 
 father and father of the present Dr. Monro. The Agri- 
 cultural Museum has been formed by the present pro- 
 fessor of agriculture, Mr. Low, aided by a grant from 
 government ; and consists of models of implements of 
 husbandry, specimens of grain and grasses, and draw- 
 ings of the most approved breeds of cattle and horses. 
 
 New College. 
 
 This institution, which is in connexion with the Free 
 Church of Scotland, was formed in 1843, in the same 
 year and at the meeting of the same Assembly that ori- 
 ginated that ecclesiastical body. Though chiefly intended 
 for the training of students who hold the principles of 
 the Free Church, it is not exclusively confined to that 
 class, but is open to all who choose to avail themselves 
 of its privileges : nor is it a mere theological seminary, 
 but comprises distinct classes for instruction in the 
 higher branches of Greek and Roman literature, in 
 logic, moral philosophy, and natural science. In the- 
 ology the curriculum extends over four years, and is 
 conducted by four professors, who each superintend two 
 classes of students at different stages of progress, and 
 deliver a corresponding course of lectures, which em- 
 braces two sessions. It is e.xpected that, previous to 
 entering on the study of theology, the students shall 
 complete their literary and philosophical studies, and 
 also acquire a competent knowledge of the elements of 
 Hebrew ; after which they pass through a course of na- 
 tural theology and the evidences of Christianity, syste- 
 matic theology or the subject-matter of Christianity, 
 pastoral theology. Church history, and exegetical the- 
 ology. These classes are intended to be so arranged, 
 that, at whatever years' standing a student may enter, 
 he may have his own proper class, and pass from one to 
 another in consecutive order. The funds necessary for 
 the maintenance of the institution are derived from 
 contributions made once a year by the congregations 
 of the Free Church, and from the fees paid by the stu- 
 dents in the college, which do not exceed two guineas 
 for each class. One or two sums have also been 
 bequeathed as endowments. The attendance of stu- 
 dents at all the classes has been somewhat various, 
 though generally on the increase, and on an average 
 about 300. 
 
 The college was opened on the 31st of October, 1843, 
 by the late distinguished Dr. Chalmers, and the several 
 classes have since been taught in a house near the mid- 
 dle of George-street, which was previously a private 
 dwelling. A new building, however, has been erected, 
 of which the foundation stone was laid by Dr. Chalmers 
 on the 3rd of June, 1846, and which is expected to be 
 ready by November 1850. This structure, which is 
 situated at the head of the Earthen Mound, on a space 
 between the Old and New Town, is in the collegiate 
 style, and built according to plans furnished by the 
 eminent architect, Mr. Playfair. As originally designed 
 by that gentleman, the buildings were to embrace three 
 398 
 
 quadrangles upon different levels, rising one above 
 another from the level of the Mound to that of the 
 Castle hill ; but as it has been resolved not to extend 
 the institution beyond a theological faculty, with what 
 are considered its cognate branches, the present erection 
 is confined to the first or lowest quadrangle, which con- 
 tains seven class-rooms, a library, a museum, and jani- 
 tor's house, together with a church upon the east side of 
 it. The expense of the buildings has been contributed 
 by twenty individuals, nineteen of whom subscribed 
 £1000 each, and one subscribed £2000. The library 
 consists of about 15,000 volumes, of which about 10,000 
 have been donations ; the names of the Right Hon. Fox 
 Maule, the late Major-General Mac Douall, of Stranraer, 
 and Frederick Sargent, Esq., of London, being recorded 
 among the most munificent contributors in this depart- 
 ment. The museum of natural science has also received 
 very rare and valuable contributions. 
 
 High School, and Academy. 
 
 The High School of Edmburgh was founded as a 
 public grammar school, by the town council, in 1518 : 
 and in 15*8, being found inadequate to the wants of the 
 city, it was refounded on a more extended scale. From 
 the progressive increase of the number of pupils, the 
 ancient house in which it was primarily established was 
 taken down in 1777, and a more extensive building 
 erected on its site, where it continued to flourish till 
 1829, when, a more eligible situation having been se- 
 lected in 1825, the school was removed to the present 
 spacious and elegant structure erected for its use on the 
 Calton hill. It is under the superintendence of a rector 
 and four classical masters, and teachers of the French 
 language, writing, arithmetic, and the mathematics, all 
 of whom are appointed by the magistrates and town 
 council. The fees in the rector's class are £1. 5. per 
 quarter, and in each of the four masters' classes £1; for 
 the French and mathematical classes, lOs. 6d. each; and 
 in the writing and arithmetical classes, 7*'. 6(/. each. The 
 average number of pupils is about 500, to the most 
 successful of whom prizes are awarded at the public ex- 
 aminations, which take place annually, in August, before 
 the magistrates and council, the clergy of the city, and 
 the professors of the university. 
 
 The building was erected after a design by Mr. Hamil- 
 ton, at a cost of £30,000, of which about £3000 were 
 raised by subscription, £6000 were obtained as the price 
 of the old school, and the remaining sum of £21,000 
 was contributed by the town council, being just so much 
 added to the city debt. It is a stately structure of free- 
 stone, in the Grecian style of architecture, 270 feet in 
 length, and embellished in the centre of the principal 
 front with a small portico of six Doric columns, sup- 
 porting an entablature and cornice with a triangular 
 pediment, and forming the chief entrance, to which is 
 an ascent by a flight of steps. On each side of the 
 portico is an open corridor of twelve Doric columns, 
 with entablature and cornice of corresponding character, 
 connecting the centre with the wings. The interior 
 comprises a noble entrance-hall, seventy-five feet in 
 length and forty-three feet wide, with the various class- 
 rooms for the rector and the four classical masters, of 
 which the rector's is thirty-eight feet square, and each of 
 the other four thirty-eight feet long and twenty feet wide.
 
 ED I N 
 
 EDI N 
 
 To each of the class-rooms are attached two smaller 
 apartments, and every arrangement for affording ample 
 facility to the purposes of the institution has been 
 studiously provided. At the entrance into the court- 
 yard are two lodges, two stories in height, in one of 
 which are the class-rooms for the writing and ma- 
 thematical masters, forty-eight and thirty-six feet in 
 length respectively, and both eighteen feet wide ; the 
 other lodge is appropriated as a house for the janitor. 
 Attached to the school are about two acres of play- 
 ground. 
 
 The Edinhurrjh Academy, established in 18'24, on a 
 plan similar to that of the High School, and situated in 
 Henderson-row, to the north of the New Town, is 
 under the superintendence of a board of fifteen directors, 
 of whom three are annually elected from the body of 
 subscribers. It is conducted by a rector and four clas- 
 sical masters, with other teachers ; differing in no mate- 
 rial particular from the High School, except in the 
 amount of fees. The building, erected by shareholders 
 at a cost of £14,000, is a spacious and elegant struc- 
 ture in the Grecian style, after a design by Mr. Burn, 
 containing the requisite class-rooms, halls, and other 
 arrangements. 
 
 Of the other establishments for education, may be 
 mentioned the Scottish Naval and Military Academy, in- 
 stituted in 1825, and which affords education to pupils 
 destined to serve in the army or navy, or East India 
 Company's service. There are also the Circus-place 
 School; the Edinburgh Institution, established in ISS^ ; 
 the Southern Academy, George-square, founded in 1S29; 
 &c. 
 
 Parishes, and Ecclesiastical Arrangements. 
 
 The see of Edinburgh, originally founded by Charles I. 
 in 1633, and to which the ancient collegiate church of 
 St. Giles was appropriated as the cathedral, continued 
 till the Revolution, when the city contained six parishes. 
 Edinburgh is now the seat of the General Assembly of 
 the Church of Scotland, and of the presbytery of Edin- 
 burgh, and comprises seventeen civil parishes, besides 
 which there recently existed for a time twelve quoad 
 sacra or ecclesiastical parishes. The civil parishes, 
 with the exception only of Canongate and St.Cuthbert's, 
 which are under the patronage of the Crown, are all in 
 the gift of the Town Council, by whom a stipend of 
 £548 is paid to each of the ministers thus appointed by 
 them ; the ecclesiastical parishes were in the patronage 
 of various bodies, and the stipends, differing in amount, 
 were derived from seat-rents and other sources. 
 
 The parish of the High Church is wholly within the 
 city, and contains a population of 2776, under the pas- 
 toral care of two ministers. The church is a portion of 
 the cathedral of St. Giles, the interior of which was 
 partitioned, at different times, for four separate congre- 
 gations, and is now divided into three churches, one of 
 them appropriated to the High Church parish, one to 
 the New North Church parish, and the third to the Old 
 Church parish. There are 1399 sittings for this parish, 
 including arrangements for the lord provost, magis- 
 trates, and council of the city, the judges of the High 
 Court of Session, and the members of the Kirk Session. 
 The interior of this once splendid edifice was richly em- 
 bellished, and contained forty altars to different saints, 
 399 
 
 numerous relics, sumptuous vestments, and valuable 
 vessels of gold and silver, all of which were removed or 
 destroyed at the Reformation. The church was exter- 
 nally rebuilt or renovated in the year 1830, after a design 
 by Mr. Burn, architect ; and with the exception of the 
 beautiful lantern or spire, and the interior of the choir, 
 little or nothing now reniams of the ancient church. It 
 is a stately structure in the pointed style of architecture, 
 with a lofty central tower surmounted by a small spire 
 connected with the battlements by flying buttresses, 
 uniting in the form of an imperial crown, and rising to 
 the height of 161 feet from the base. The south aisle 
 was fitted up for the meetings of the General Assembly, 
 but, being found inconvenient for that purpose, the 
 meetings have been discontinued; and it is now occu- 
 pied as the church of the Old Church parish. There 
 were several ancient monuments, among which were 
 those of the Regent Murray and the Marquess of Mon- 
 trose, and one erroneously supposed to be that of Napier 
 of Merchiston ; but they were destroyed on the rebuild- 
 ing of the church. John Knox, the intrepid reformer, 
 was buried in the cemetery of St. Giles, which formerly 
 occupied the ground where the buildings of the Parlia- 
 ment-square now stand. The parish contains a preach- 
 ing station, at which a missionary, who has a salary of 
 £50, raised by subscription, officiates every Sunday ; an 
 episcopal chapel, dedicated to St. Paul ; a Free church ; 
 and a place of worship in Carrubbers Close, for a con- 
 gregation assuming no particular denomination. 
 
 The parish of the Old Church is of very limited ex- 
 tent, and contains a population of 2939. Its church, a 
 portion of the collegiate church of St. Giles, -was taken 
 down in 1830, and rebuilt as a hall for the meetings of 
 the General Assembly. The congregation assembled for 
 public worship in the rooms belonging to the High 
 School on Calton hill till 1835, when they removed to a 
 temporary building containing about 600 sittings : the 
 south aisle of St. Giles' is now again appropriated for 
 them, having ceased to be used for the General As- 
 sembly's meetings. There is also a preaching station, 
 in which service is performed twice every Sunday, at the 
 expense of the minister of the parish. 
 
 The ToLBOOTH parish, so called from the proximity 
 of its former church to the ancient Tolbooth, is wholly 
 within the city, and contains a population of 2216. The 
 congregation now assemble in the Victoria Hall, near 
 the Castle hill, recently erected for the meetings of the 
 General Assembly, but which was intended also to serve 
 as one of the city churches, and has been assigned to 
 this parish. It was erected at a cost of upwards of 
 £16,000, jointly defrayed by the government and the 
 town council, and is a large and very elegant building 
 in the pointed style, with a tower and spire of great 
 richness, rising 240 feet in height, and forming one of 
 the most conspicuous objects in Edinburgh. Besides 
 the spacious hall or church, it contains apartments for 
 the officers, committees, and the records of the Assembly. 
 There are places of worship in the parish for Wesleyans 
 and members of the Free Church. 
 
 The parish of Trinity College is entirely a town 
 parish, containing a population of 2615. The church, 
 originally founded by Mary of Gueldres, queen of James 
 II., for a provost, eight prebendaries, two choristers, 
 and a sacristan, was a handsome structure in the later 
 English style, of which only the choir and transepts
 
 E D I N 
 
 E D I N 
 
 ■were completed j it underwent considerable alterations 
 in IS'JO, and contained 797 sittings. In a portion of 
 the building the remains of the queen were interred. 
 This church was removed a few years ago, to make way 
 for the North-British railroad; and during the removal, 
 the remains of Mary of Gueldres were found : they were 
 carried to the crown-office, and, after lying there some 
 time, were formally conveyed in July 184S to the chapel 
 royal at Holyrood, as their final resting-place. A chapel 
 in connexion with the Established Church, to which a 
 district containing 816 persons was for a short time an- 
 nexed, was founded in 1785 by Lady Glenorchy, who 
 endowed it for two ministers, the first having a stipend 
 of £400, and the second one of £200, paid by the 
 Trustees, the patrons. This chapel, which was taken 
 down by the North-British Railway Company in the 
 early part of the year 1845, was a neat plain structure, 
 containing 1514 sittings, of which 104 were free ; and at- 
 tached to it was a school for 120 poor children, under 
 the direction of the trustees. There is a place of worship 
 for Independents. 
 
 The parish of the New North Church, wholly within 
 the ancient royalty, has a population of 2815. The 
 western portion of the cathedral of St. Giles is appro- 
 priated as the church of this parish, containing 1397 
 sittings. There is also a preaching station in the Lawn- 
 market, in which divine service is performed every Sun- 
 day by a licentiate of the Establishment ; and a place of 
 worship has been erected in connexion with the Free 
 Church. 
 
 The parish of the Tron Church is wholly within the 
 city, and contains a population of 2498, under the care 
 of two ministers. The church, properly Christ church, 
 though, from its proximity to the public weigh-house, 
 called the Tron Church, is a spacious and handsome 
 structure in a mixed style, commenced in 1637, and 
 completed in 1673. It had formerly a spire of wood, 
 which was destroyed by an accidental fire in 1824, and 
 replaced by a lofty square tower crowned with an open 
 balustrade ornamented by pinnacles at the angles, and 
 surmounted with a low turret of smaller dimensions 
 having a pyramidal roof, the whole erected by the town 
 council in 1828. The interior of the church, which 
 contains 832 sittings, is well arranged, and embellished 
 with a high roof of richly- carved oak. There is also a 
 hall in which divine service is performed two or three 
 times during the week by a licentiate of the Estabhsh- 
 ment ; and the parish contains places of worship for 
 members of the Free Church, the United Presbyterian 
 Synod, Scottish Baptists, and the Synod of United Ori- 
 ginal Seceders. 
 
 The parish of the Old Grey Friars, formed in 1722, 
 is wholly within the city, and contains a population of 
 2643. The church, erected by the town council in 1612, 
 on ground which formerly belonged to the ancient mo- 
 nastery of the Grey Friars, and was given by Queen 
 Mary to the magistrates for a cemetery, was, previously 
 to the fire in 1845, a handsome structure in the later 
 English style, containing 1061 sittings. The tower, 
 which had been appropriated as the city magazine, was 
 destroyed in 1718, by an explosion that also greatly 
 damaged the chiirch ; and instead of rebuilding the 
 tower, the magistrates erected on its site the church of 
 the New Grey Friars' parish, separated from the former 
 only by a partition wall. In the churchyard are interred 
 400 
 
 many persons of distinction, including George Buchanan, 
 Sir George Mackenzie of Rosehaugh, Colin Maclaurin, 
 Allan Ramsay, Principal Robertson the historian, who 
 was for many years pastor of the Old Grey Friars ; Dr. 
 Black, the distinguished chemist ; Dr. Hugh Blair ; and 
 Dr. M'Crie, the biographer of Knox. There is a " preach- 
 ing station " at the Magdalen chapel in the Cowgate, 
 where divine service is performed twice every Sunday 
 by the assistant minister. The parish also comprises 
 places of worship for members of the Free Church, Scot- 
 tish Baptists, Bereans, and Independents. 
 
 The parish of the New Grey Friars has a population 
 of 3207. The church, erected in 1721, adjoining that of 
 the Old Grey Friars, and repaired and re- seated in 1818, 
 at an expense of £1518, by the town council, was a neat 
 structure containing 1302 sittings. It was, however, 
 together with the church of the Old Grey Friars, acci- 
 dentally destroyed by fire on Sunday morning, January 
 19th, 1845. The flames were first discovered at about 
 half-past nine o'clock : by half-past ten the Old Grey 
 Friars' church had almost wholly fallen a prey to the de- 
 vouring element, and shortly afterwards the flames seized 
 upon the roof of the New Grey Friars, which edifice, 
 notwithstanding the greatest exertions of the firemen, 
 shared the fate of the other church. This fire was one 
 of the most appalling that have happened in Edinburgh 
 since the year 1S24 : the walls were almost the only 
 parts of the churches left standing ; the scene presented 
 after the fire was one of the utmost desolation, and 
 had the building not been detached, the result would 
 have been still more lamentable. Service is performed 
 at the Old Gaelic chapel, twice every Sunday, by a mis- 
 sionary appointed by the Kirk Session ; and there is a 
 place of worship for a congregation of the United Chris- 
 tian churches. 
 
 The parish of St. Andrew, separated from that of St. 
 Cuthbert, by act of parliament, in 1785, contains a popu- 
 lation of 4974, under the pastoral superintendence of 
 two ministers. The church, situated on the north side 
 of George-street, was erected in 1785, at a cost of £7000, 
 by the town council. It is a handsome structure in the 
 Grecian style, with a stately portico of four Corinthian 
 columns, and a lofty and graceful spire rising to the 
 height of 168 feet from the base; the interior is well 
 arranged, and contains 1053 sittings. The episcopal 
 chapel dedicated to St. George was erected in 1794, at 
 an expense of £3000, after a design by Mr. Robert 
 Adam, and contains 642 sittings, of which fifty are free. 
 There are places of worship for members of the Free 
 Ch\irch, the United Presbyterian Synod, Baptists, Inde- 
 pendent Baptists, Wesleyans, and the followers of Mr. 
 Mc Lean, who assume no distinctive denomination ; and 
 a Roman Catholic chapel. 
 
 The parish of St. George was separated from that of 
 St. Andrew by the town council and presbytery, under 
 an act of parliament in 1814. It is partly a rural pa- 
 rish, and is about a mile and a half in length, and half a 
 mile in breadth, containing a population of S075. The 
 church, which is situated on the west side of Charlotte- 
 square, was erected by the town council in 1814, at an 
 expense of £33,000, and is a spacious structure in the 
 Roman style, with a central portico, and a square tower 
 crowned with a lofty dome surmounted by a cupola and 
 cross at an elevation of 160 feet from the base. The 
 interior is chastely decorated, and contains 1687 sittings. 
 
 I
 
 ED I N 
 
 EDIN 
 
 There are places of worship for Baptists and members 
 of the Free Church. 
 
 The parish of Lady Yester's church is wholly a 
 town parish, comprising about one-fourth of a square 
 mile, and containing a population of 2'2'23. The church 
 was originally built in 1647, and rebuilt in 1805 by the 
 town council, to whom Margaret Kerr, Lady Yester, 
 gave 10,000 merks for its erection, and 5000 merks to- 
 wards its endowment. It is a neat structure with cir- 
 cular gables and projecting turrets resting on corbels, 
 and terminating ia slender spires. The building is situ- 
 ated nearly in the centre of the parish, and contains 
 1212 sittings, including 160 appropriated to the mem- 
 bers of the university, which is within the parish. There 
 is a place of worship for Original Seceders. 
 
 The parish of St. Mary was separated from that of 
 St. Andrew by authority of the town council and the 
 presbytery of Edinburgh in 1824. It is wholly a town 
 parish, containing a population of 6724. The church, 
 situated in the centre of Bellevue-crescent, on the eastern 
 boundary of the parish, was erected by the council in 
 1824, at an expense of £13,000; it has a portico of 
 Corinthian columns, and a square tower surmounted by 
 a circular cupola crowned with a dome, and contains 
 1646 sittings. The episcopal chapel dedicated to St. 
 Paul, at the eastern extremity of York-place, was erected 
 in 1818, at a cost of £13,533, raised by subscription. 
 It is a handsome structure after a design by Mr. Archi- 
 bald Elliott, in the later English style of architecture, 
 123 feet in length, and seventy-three feet in breadth, 
 with lofty embattled turrets at each extremity. The 
 walls of the aisles are strengthened with enriched but- 
 tresses between the windows, terminating in crocketed 
 pinnacles, and a similar range is continued in the cleres- 
 tory of the nave ; the east window is of spacious di- 
 mensions, and embellished with stained glass and with 
 delicate tracery, and above the west entrance is a large 
 window of the same character. Two ministers are at- 
 tached to the chapel, each of whom has a stipend of 
 £300. There are places of worship for members of the 
 Free Church, Independents, and Glassites. 
 
 The parish of St. Stephen was separated from the 
 several adjoining parishes by the presbytery and the 
 town council, under an act of parliament in 1828 ; it 
 is wholly a town parish, and comprises a population of 
 6849. The church was erected in 1828, after a design 
 by Mr. Playfair, at an expense of £25,000 ; it is an ele- 
 gant structure, with a lofty square embattled tower. 
 There is a place of worship for members of the Free 
 Church. 
 
 The parish of the Canongate is about a mile and a 
 half in length, and nearly four-fifths of a mile in breadth, 
 comprising a considerable rural district, and containing 
 a population of 9944, under the pastoral superintendence 
 of two ministers, of whom each has a stipend of £240. 
 The minister of the first charge is appointed by the 
 Crown, and has a manse ; the minister of the second 
 charge is chosen by the Heritors and Kirk Session, and 
 has an allowance of £40 in lieu of a manse. Canongate 
 church was erected in 1688, by the town council, at a 
 cost of £2400, defrayed partly from a bequest by Mr. 
 Thomas Moodie, which had been suffered to accumulate; 
 and was thoroughly repaired and new seated in 1319, at 
 an expense of £2000. It is a plain cruciform structure 
 of irregular style, with a portico of four columns having 
 Vol. I.— 401 
 
 an entablature and cornice surmounted by a triangular 
 pediment ; the interior is well arranged, and contains 
 1295 sittings. Before the erection of this building, part 
 of the Abbey of Holyrood was used as the parish church. 
 In the churchyard are the tombs of Provost Drummond 
 and the poet Ferguson : Adam Smith and Dugald Ste- 
 wart are also interred here. There is a place of worship 
 for a congregation of members of the Free Church. 
 
 The parish of St. Cuthbert, which was recently sub- 
 divided into several ecclesiastical districts, afterwards 
 abolished in common with others in Scotland, is of great 
 extent, and originally included the whole of the city, and 
 the burgh of Canongate. It is about five miles in length 
 and three miles and a half in breadth, comprising an 
 extensive rural district, and containing a population of 
 71,908. St. Cuthbert's is under the pastoral superin- 
 tendence of two ministers appointed by the Crown, who 
 have each a stipend of £402. 14. : one has also a manse, 
 and the other an allowance of £60 in lieu ; and the 
 glebe lands, which are equally divided between them, 
 produce to each an income of £245. The church, situ- 
 ated at the west end of Princes- street, was built in I76O 
 at a cost of £4321, and is a spacious structure, with a 
 lofty square embattled tower surmounted by a spire ; it 
 is neatly fitted up, and contains 2400 sittings. In the 
 interior of the porch, under the steeple, are erected 
 monuments to Napier of Merchiston, who was interred 
 in the old church of St. Cuthbert, and Sir Henry Mon- 
 creiff, one of the ministers of the parish ; while on the 
 exterior is a monument to Sir Henry's colleague. Dr. 
 Dickson, by Mr. Ritchie. There is a handsome church 
 at Morningside ; and other churches have been erected 
 in the parish of St. Cuthbert, as noticed in a succeeding 
 column. The episcopal chapel dedicated to St. James is 
 situated at the west end of Broughton-place, in con- 
 nexion with the houses of that street, and scarcely to be 
 distinguished from them. It was built in 1820, at an 
 expense of £4000, raised by subscription ; is a hand- 
 some edifice, and contains 850 sittings, of which 100 
 are free. The minister derives a stipend of £500, chiefly 
 from the seat-rents. The episcopal chapel dedicated to 
 St. John, situated at the west end of Princes-street, on 
 the north side of St. Cuthbert's churchyard, was erected 
 in I8I7, at a cost of £16,000, also raised by subscrip- 
 tion and donations. It is in the later English style of 
 architecture, with a square embattled tower crowned by 
 minarets that terminate in crocketed finials, and having 
 in the faces double belfry windows, enriched with ca- 
 nopies. The walls of the aisles are strengthened by pa- 
 nelled buttresses, surmounted with a pierced parapet, 
 and a similar arrangement is continued in the clerestory 
 of the nave ; the west entrance is under a deeply-re- 
 cessed archway, above which is a spacious window of 
 elegant design. The nave is separated from the aisles 
 by fine clustered columns, which support the roof ; and 
 is lighted by a noble range of clerestory windows, and 
 at the east end by a window of six lights, thirty feet 
 high, divided by transoms into three compartments, the 
 upper of which is embellished with a rich Catherine 
 wheel, and the others with stained glass. The roof of 
 the nave and aisles is delicately groined, and the whole 
 of the interior of the edifice is beautifully arranged. There 
 is however no chancel. The minister has a stipend of 
 £550, arising from seat-rents, out of which he pays a 
 curate; and the chapel contains 821 sittings. In the 
 
 3 F
 
 ED I N 
 
 ED I N 
 
 parish are also places of worship for members of the 
 Free Church, the United Presbyterian Synod, Reformed 
 Presbyterians, Original Seceders, the Society of Friends, 
 Baptists, Wesleyans, Independents, Jews, and Unitarians ; 
 an Episcopal chapel dedicated to St. Peter, containing 
 420 sittings ; two Roman Catholic chapels, and a con- 
 vent established at Whitehouse in 1836, and dedicated 
 to St. Margaret. 
 
 The parish of Greenside was recently divided from 
 St. Andrew's, and erected into an independent parish ; 
 it is in the northern part of the city, in the direction of 
 Leith Walk, and contains 3636 persons. The parish of 
 St. John is also of very recent formation, and consists 
 of part of the old parishes of the New Grey Friars, Old 
 Grey Friars, and New North Church ; it has a population 
 of 2140, and is in the immediate vicinity of the castle. 
 Besides the churches of these two parishes, there is a 
 place of worship called St. John's for members of the 
 Free Church. 
 
 Former Quoad Sacra Parishes. 
 
 The parish of New Street, which in 1841 contained a 
 population of 1932, was separated from the parish of the 
 Canongate, under act of the General Assembly in 1834; 
 it was of small extent, and wholly within the burgh. 
 The church was originally erected as a chapel of ease, at 
 a cost, including the site, of £2900 ; it is a neat struc- 
 ture, and has 1 1 50 sittings. Leitli M'ytid parish, contain- 
 ing a population of 1868, was separated also from Canon- 
 gate, under act of the Assembly in 1834 : the church, 
 originally built as a chapel of ease, in 1792, is ill adapted 
 to the use of a congregation; it contains 1094 sittings. 
 Buccleuch, separated from the parish of St. Cuthbert, was 
 one mile and a half in length and about half a mile in 
 breadth, and contained 3168 persons : the church, built 
 in 1755 and repaired in 1809, is a neat structure, with 
 accommodation for 1374 persons. St. Bernard's was 
 about a mile and a half in length and three-quarters of 
 a mile in breadth, and had a population of 4*68: the 
 church, erected in 1822, at a cost of £4200, contains 
 1309 sittings. The parish of Roxburgh was wholly a 
 town parish, and comprised an area of about one-fourth 
 of a square mile, having a population of 3683 : the 
 church was built in 1809, at an expense of £2960, as a 
 place of worship for a Relief congregation, and was pur- 
 chased in 1S32 as a chapel of ease; it contains accom- 
 modation for 830 persons. Newington parish, separated, 
 like the three preceding, from the parish of St. Cuthbert, 
 was about three-quarters of a mile in length and one- 
 quarter of a mile in breadth, and contained 33 1 persons : 
 the church, erected by the Kirk Session of St. Cuthbert's 
 in 1823, at an expense of £6372, contains 1623 sittings. 
 The Gaelic church in the parish of the Old Grey Friars 
 was appropriated, under act of the General Assembly in 
 1834, to the whole of the Highland population of Edin- 
 burgh, Leith, and suburbs, over whom the minister was 
 invested with the pastoral superintendence. The edifice, 
 originally built in 1809, by subscription, was purchased 
 from the subscribers by the Society for the Propagation 
 of Christian Knowledge, in 1815, at a cost of £3000 ; it 
 is a neat structure, and contains 1166 sittings. The pa- 
 rishes of St. David, Dean, Morningside, and ^S';. Paid were 
 separated from the parish of St. Cuthbert, and contained 
 respectively 2913, 2262 (namely, 2154 in St. Cuthbert's, 
 402 
 
 and 108 in Corstorphine parish), 1795, and 2874 inha- 
 bitants. St. David's church, in Gardner's-crescent, was 
 purchased by the Kirk Session of St. Cuthbert's as a 
 chapel of ease, in 1 83 1 , the cost, with the ground attached, 
 being £2500 : it contains 1302 sittings. The churches 
 of Dean and Morningside are noticed under their own 
 heads. The parish of St. Luke was separated from that 
 of St. George, and had a population of 2546 : its church 
 is situated in Young-street, and will accommodate a con- 
 gregation of 1000 persons. 
 
 Hospitals. 
 
 Heriot's Hospital was founded in 1624 by George 
 Heriot, a native of Edinburgh, who, being appointed 
 goldsmith and jeweller to James VI., accompanied that 
 monarch to London on his accession to the throne of 
 England. He died in 1624, and bequeathed the residue 
 of his property, which realized £23,625, to the city 
 ministers, magistrates, and town council, in trust for the 
 erection and endowment of an hospital for the mainte- 
 nance and education of as many poor boys, sons of free- 
 men, as the funds would allow. The first stone of the 
 building was laid in 1628, but from the frequent inter- 
 ruption arising from intestine commotions, the edifice 
 was not finished till 1650, when it was seized by Crom- 
 well after the sanguinary battle of Dunbar : it was, how- 
 ever, restored by General Monk, on his being provided 
 with other accommodation for his soldiers, he having 
 kept possession of it for eight years ; and in 1659 was 
 opened for the reception of thirty boys. Since that 
 period, the annual revenue of the hospital has increased 
 from £1966 to £15,412; and there are at present 180 
 boys in the establishment, who are maintained, and in- 
 structed in the English, French, Latin, and Greek lan- 
 guages, writing, arithmetic, mathematics, book-keeping, 
 geography, practical mechanics, drawing, and the ele- 
 ments of music. Boys are eligible at seven years of age, 
 and under ten years of age. The scholars are kept in 
 the hospital till they are fourteen ; and on leaving the 
 institution, such as are placed out as apprentices to trades 
 are liberally supplied with clothes and books, and receive 
 £10 annually for five years during their apprenticeship, 
 and a present of £5 on the completion of the inden- 
 tures. Those who discover any talents or desire for 
 the learned professions are sent to the university, with 
 an allowance of £30 per annum, for four years ; and 
 there are also ten bursaries of £20 per annum for four 
 years, founded in the university by the trustees of the 
 hospital, and open to the competition of young men not 
 connected with the institution. 
 
 The buildings, which are pleasantly situated on an 
 eminence south-eastward of the castle, form a handsome 
 quadrangular range 162 feet in length, with embattled 
 turrets at the angles. The design is attributed to Inigo 
 Jones, and is in that mixed style which dates its origin 
 from the reign of Elizabeth, and examples of which 
 are afforded by Drumlanrig Castle in Dumfriesshire, 
 Northumberland House, London, and many other edifices 
 throughout the kingdom. In the centre of the principal 
 front is a square projecting tower, embattled, and sur- 
 mounted by an octagonal turret and dome, above which 
 is a cupola of similar design, with a vane ; over the 
 entrance are the armorial bearings of the founder, and 
 in a niche above the gateway within the quadrangle is
 
 E DI N 
 
 ED I N 
 
 placed his statue, in the costume of the day. On the 
 south side of the quadrangle, which is ninety-four feet 
 square, with a piazza on the north and east sides, is the 
 chape], projecting beyond the line of the buildings within 
 the area and also in a noble oriel window in the rear : 
 the chapel is sixty-one feet in length, and twenty-two 
 feet wide ; its floor is laid with black and white marble, 
 and the whole of its interior has been recently fitted up 
 with great elegance. On the west side of the quadrangle 
 is the large hall, or dining-room ; and adjoining it is 
 the council chamber, a handsome and spacious room, in 
 which are portraits of the founder and several of the 
 trustees. The remainder of the building, which is three 
 stories in height, and four stories at the angles, contains 
 apartments for the governor, class-rooms, dormitories, 
 and other requisite offices ; and the park and grounds 
 attached are extensive, well planted with shrubberies, 
 and inclosed by a low wall. 
 
 Connected with the hospital, and maintained from 
 the same funds, are the Heriot Foundation schools, 
 established under the act 6th and 7th William IV., cap. 
 25. By this act the governors of the hospital were 
 empowered to found and erect, from the surplus re- 
 venues, elementary schools within the city for educating, 
 free of expense, 1st, the children, in poor circumstances, 
 of deceased burgesses and freemen ; 2nd, the children 
 of burgesses and freemen who are unable to provide for 
 their support ; and 3rd, the children of poor citizens 
 and inhabitants of Edinburgh, whilst residing within 
 the royalty. They were also empowered " to allow to 
 any of the boys, in the course of their education at such 
 schools, being sons of burgesses and freemen, such uni- 
 form fixed sum of money in lieu and place of mainte- 
 nance, and such uniform fixed sum for apprentice fee 
 after their education at the said schools is completed, as 
 shall be determined." There are already ten Heriot 
 schools, namely, seven juvenile and three infants' schools, 
 attended by about 3000 boys and girls. In the seven 
 juvenile schools are Sabbath-evening classes. 
 
 George IVatsons Hospital, situated to the west of 
 Teviot-row, and south of Heriot's hospital, was founded 
 in 1/23, by Mr. George Watson, for the maintenance 
 and education of sons and grandsons of decayed mer- 
 chants of Edinburgh, for which purpose he bequeathed 
 £12,000. This sum, being suffered to accumulate, 
 amounted to £20,000 in 1738, when an appropriate 
 building was erected by the trustees, at a cost of £5000, 
 on a site of land comprising seven acres, purchased 
 from Heriot's trustees; and in the year 1741 twelve 
 boys were admitted. The number increased in three 
 years to thirty ; and there are at present about eighty 
 boys on the foundation, who are maintained and clothed, 
 and instructed in the English, Latin, Greek, and French 
 languages, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, the mathe- 
 matics, drawing, dancing, and music. Boys are eligible 
 for admission at from seven to ten years of age. On 
 leaving the school, each scholar receives a present of £7 
 for clothing, and £10 annually for five years as an ap- 
 prentice fee, and if, after having faithfully fulfilled his 
 indentures, he remains for three years unmarried, a 
 further sum of £50 towards establishing himself in busi- 
 ness. Such as display a taste and sufficient degree of 
 talent for literary pursuits are allowed £20 per annum, 
 for four years, for their support at the university, and, 
 after leaving it, £17 per annum for two years. The 
 403 
 
 hospital is under the superintendence of a body of 
 governors, consisting of the master, assistants, and 
 treasurer of the Merchants' Company, the bailies, and 
 dean of guild, of the corporation, and the two ministers 
 of the Old Church parish. The buildings form a neat 
 and substantial pile, comprising a centre and two pro- 
 jecting wings. The central range, which rises above 
 the roof of the main edifice, is embellished with a low 
 tower crowned by a dome, from which springs a turret 
 with a conical roof surmounted by a vane, representing 
 a ship in full sail, as the emblem of commerce. Over 
 the entrance is a tablet having the armorial bearings of 
 the founder, and in front of the building is an extensive 
 piece of ground inclosed as a place of exercise for the 
 pupils. The interior, which is well arranged, comprises 
 spacious class-rooms, and the various offices for the pur- 
 poses of the institution. 
 
 John Watson's Hospital was founded by Mr. John 
 Watson, writer to the signet, who in 1759 bequeathed 
 the residue of his estate to Lord Milton, Mr. John Mac- 
 kenzie, and others, in trust for such pious and chari- 
 table use within the city of Edinburgh as they should 
 think fit. From those trustees the patronage devolved 
 upon the keeper and deputy-keeper of the signet, who 
 in 1S22 obtained an act of parliament for the erection 
 and endowment of an hospital for the maintenance and 
 education of destitute children, and for bringing them 
 up, and assisting their establishment in trade. The 
 proceeds of the bequest, which in 1781 amounted to 
 £4721. 9. 6., have since that time greatly accumulated, 
 and at present exceed £132,000. There are 126 chil- 
 dren in the institution, who are admitted at from five 
 to eight, and stay till they are fourteen, years of age. 
 They are maintained and clothed, and instructed in read- 
 ing, writing, and arithmetic, the girls also in needle- 
 work and housewifery ; and on leaving the school the 
 boys are placed out to trades, and the girls as servants 
 in respectable families. The building, which is situated 
 on the Dean land, was commenced in 1825, and com- 
 pleted in 1828 ; it is a spacious and handsome struc- 
 ture in the Grecian style of architecture, with a stately 
 portico in the centre of the principal front, and contains 
 every requisite arrangement for its purpose. 
 
 The Merchants' Maiden Hospital, near Heriot's hospital, 
 was founded in 1695, by the Merchants' Company, in 
 conjunction with Mrs. Mary Erskine, for the mainte- 
 nance and education of daughters or grand-daughters 
 of merchant-burgesses or ministers of Edinburgh, who 
 are eligible for admission from the age of seven to eleven, 
 and are maintained till they are seventeen years of age. 
 There are at present ninety-six girls in the hospital, who 
 are instructed in the English and French languages, 
 writing, arithmetic, geography, history, drawing, dancing, 
 music, and needle- work ; and on leaving the institution, 
 each receives a present of £9. 6. 8. The hospital is 
 under the superintendence of a body of governors con- 
 sisting of five members of the town council, the master 
 and three assistants of the Merchants' Company, the 
 Earl of Mar, and three of the ministers of the city. The 
 buildings, originally in Bristo-street, having become in- 
 adequate for the purpose, the present edifice was erected 
 in 1818, at an expense of £12,250; it is a handsome 
 structure in the Grecian style after a design by Mr. 
 Burn, 180 feet in length and sixty feet in depth, with 
 a portico of four columns in the principal front. 
 
 3 F2
 
 ED 1 N 
 
 The Trades' Maiden Hospital was founded in 1704, by 
 the freemen of the incorporated trades, in conjunction 
 with Mrs. Mary Erskine, and is under the superintend- 
 ence of a body of governors consisting of the deacons 
 of the trades, two trades' councillors, and others, incor- 
 porated by act of parliament in 1707- There are about 
 fifty girls, the daughters or grand-daughters of freemen 
 of the trades, who are maintained, and instructed in the 
 English and French languages, writing, arithmetic, geo- 
 graphy, history, music, sewing, and laundry-work. They 
 are eligible for admission at from seven to eleven years 
 of age, and remain in the hospital till they are seventeen : 
 on leaving, each girl receives a present of £5. H. and a 
 Bible. The building, which is a plain neat structure, is 
 well adapted to the purpose, and contains all the requi- 
 site accommodations. 
 
 The Orphan Hospital was first projected by Mr. An- 
 drew Gardiner, merchant, in 1727 ; and in 1733 a house 
 was hired for the purpose, into which thirty destitute 
 children were received. A building was erected in 1735, 
 near the Trinity College church, by the directors, who 
 were incorporated by act of George II. in 1742 ; and in 
 1812 considerable additions were made to the hospital : 
 but the situation being originally low, and the contigu- 
 ous buildings still further obstructing free ventilation, 
 a new site was fixed upon in the Dean grounds, north 
 of the Water of Leith, and a very handsome and com- 
 modious edifice was erected there in 1S32 at an expense 
 of about £16,000. A large number of orphan children 
 of both sexes are maintained, and instructed in reading, 
 writing, arithmetic, and geography. The children are 
 eligible for admission from seven to ten years of age, 
 and the hospital is open without distinction to all parts 
 of Scotland. 
 
 Gillespie's Hospital was founded by Mr. James Gilles- 
 pie, a wealthy tobacco and snuff merchant, who in 1797 
 bequeathed to the master, treasurer, and assistants of 
 the Merchants' Company, to five members of the town 
 council, and the two ministers of the Tolbooth church, 
 in trust, the whole of his landed property and £12,000 
 in money, for the erection and endowment of an hos- 
 pital for forty-two aged men and women in indigent 
 circumstances, and of good reputation, and for the 
 establishment and support of a school for the mainte- 
 nance and education of 100 boys. The trustees were 
 incorporated as governors in ISOl, and in 1802 they pur- 
 chased an ancient building called Wrights Houses, near 
 Bruntfield Links, with the land adjoining it, on the site 
 of which they erected the present structure. The aged 
 persons are eligible when fifty-five years old, and, in 
 addition to their maintenance and lodging, have an 
 annual allowance in money for clothing ; the boys are 
 received at from six to twelve years of age, and are in- 
 structed in the English language, writing, and arith- 
 metic. The hospital is a handsome castellated structure 
 of stone, consisting of a centre and two projecting wings. 
 In the centre of the front is a massive square embattled 
 tower, with circular turrets at the angles, resting on 
 corbels ; and the wings, which are of less elevation than 
 the centre, are embattled, and embellished with angular 
 turrets of similar design. The buildings contain the 
 various accommodations for the inmates, house-keepers, 
 and servants, and a chapel in which divine service is 
 performed twice daily by the chaplain, who also preaches 
 a sermon on Sunday. Attached to the hospital is a 
 404 
 
 EDI N 
 
 spacious garden, and to the school sufficient ground for 
 e.xercise. There are at present fifty aged persons in the 
 house, and 150 boys in the school. 
 
 Donaldson's Hospital was founded by Mr. James 
 Donaldson, printer of the Edinburgh Advertiser, who 
 died in 1830, bequeathing the greater part of his pro- 
 perty, amounting to about £200,000, for the endowment 
 and erection of an hospital for the maintenance of poor 
 boys and girls, after the plan of the Orphan Hospital 
 and John Watson's Institution. The imposing build- 
 ings for this important charity, which were completed 
 in 1850, are situated at the west end of the city, on the 
 high bank of the Water of Leith, a mile west of Princes- 
 street. They constitute a spacious quadrangular struc- 
 ture in the Elizabethan style, from an admirable design 
 by Mr. Playfair, and form, next to the college, the 
 largest public building in Edinburgh, comprising ac- 
 commodation for 300 children, namely 150 boys and 
 150 girls. Provision has also been made in the plans 
 for such an addition as will admit fifty more boys and 
 fifty girls, an increase which it is calculated the funds of 
 the hospital may in course of time be sufficient to main- 
 tain. Those eligible for admission are declared to be, 
 first, poor children of the name of Donaldson or Mar- 
 shall, as directed by Mr. Donaldson himself in his will, 
 if they appear to the governors to be deserving ; and 
 second, such poor children as shall appear to be in the 
 most destitute circumstances, and the most deserving of 
 admission. The children are to be clothed and main- 
 tained, and taught such useful branches of education as 
 may be considered suitable to their age, sex, and station. 
 The age of admission is from six to nine years, and that 
 of leaving the hospital not later than fourteen years : 
 they are then to receive such sum of money, or other 
 assistance during apprenticeship or otherwise, as may 
 seem advisable to the governors. 
 
 Steu-art's Hospital was founded by the late Mr. D. 
 Stewart, of the Exchequer, who died in the year 1814. 
 After the payment of certain legacies, and the erection 
 and endowment of a free school in his native parish of 
 Logierait, he left the residue of his fortune, amounting 
 to about £13,000, and some house property in the Old 
 Town of Edinburgh, to accumulate for the purpose of 
 building and endowing an hospital for the maintenance 
 and education of boys, the children of honest and in- 
 dustrious parents whose circumstances in life do not 
 enable them suitably to support and educate their chil- 
 dren at other schools. Poor boys of the names of Stewart 
 and Macfarlane, residing in the city of Edinburgh or its 
 suburbs, are to have a preference ; and, failing them, 
 any other poor boys living within the same district may 
 be received. The buildings are now in course of erection, 
 from designs furnished by Mr. David Rhind. 
 
 Caiivin's Hospital, pleasantly situated at Duddingston, 
 a village about a mile and a half to the east of Edin- 
 burgh, is noticed under the head of Duddingston. 
 
 Trinity Hospital is the oldest charitable institution in 
 Edinburgh. It was originally founded by Mary of 
 Gueldres, queen of James II., in 1462, in connexion 
 with Trinity collegiate church, and was subsequently 
 given by Mary, Queen of Scots, to the corporation, who 
 took down the ancient bede-house, then in a ruinous 
 state, and fitted up the buildings occupied by the pro- 
 vost and prebendaries of the collegiate church, for the 
 reception of the poor inmates, consisting of decayed 
 
 1
 
 ED I N 
 
 EDIN 
 
 burgesses, their wives, and children. The revenues 
 have been greatly increased by good management, and 
 there are at present forty-two aged persons who are 
 maintained and clotVied, and about 100 out-pensioners 
 who receive each an allowance of £6 per annum. The 
 building contained the requisite apartments for the pur- 
 pose, and a long gallery of small dormitories ; but was 
 demolished a short time since, as being in the line of 
 the North-British railway : the inmates now occupy 
 other premises. 
 
 Chalmers Hospital, of which the management is vested 
 in the dean and faculty of advocates, owes its institution 
 to Mr. George Chalmers, plumber, of the city, who died 
 in March 1836, bequeathing the chief part of his pro- 
 perty, estimated at about £30,000, for the relief of sick 
 and hurt persons. 
 
 Miscellaneous Charitable Institutions. 
 
 The Royal Infirmary, situated to the east of the uni- 
 versity, was founded by subscription, and placed under 
 the superintendence of a committee of subscribers, who 
 were incorporated by act of parliament in 1736. Its 
 medical department is under the care of the most emi- 
 nent physicans and surgeons of the city, and the insti- 
 tution atfords relief to a very extended number of 
 patients. The building, erected in 1/38, at a cost of 
 £5000, and subsequently enlarged by a grant of £8000 
 from the lords of the treasury, for the appropriation of 
 sixty beds for sick soldiers, is a handsome and spacious 
 structure four stories high, consisting of a central range 
 '240 feet long, and two projecting wings seventy feet in 
 length. In the centre of the principal range is a portal 
 of four Ionic columns with two antae, supporting an 
 entablature and cornice surmounted by an attic ; and in 
 a niche over the entrance is a statue of George II. in the 
 Roman costume, behind which, rising from the centre of 
 the building, is an octagonal turret crowned with a 
 dome. The interior contains a spacious hall, in which is 
 a bust of Provost Drummond by Nollekens, manager's 
 rooms, consulting rooms for the physicians and surgeons, 
 waiting-rooms, rooms for students, and fifteen different 
 wards for patients. In the fourth story is an operation 
 room, in the form of a theatre, lighted from the roof, and 
 arranged for 100 spectators. 
 
 The Royal Edinburgh Lunatic Asylum, at Morningside, 
 on the south-western outskirts of the city, forms a very 
 extensive range of building. A public hospital for the 
 insane being greatly needed, an effort was made by Dr. 
 Duncan in 179^2 to raise subscriptions; but a sufficient 
 sum could not be procured, till, in 1807, through the 
 exertions of Sir John Sinclar and the Hon. H. Erskine, 
 a government grant of £'2000 was obtained. In 1810, 
 the asylum at Morningside was accordingly commenced, 
 and in 1813 opened for the reception of patients who 
 were able to pay the sum required for their support ; 
 the lowest annual charge was £.50, and the poor were 
 therefore excluded. Of late years, additional buildings 
 have been raised, at an expense of above £45,000, for the 
 accommodation of more than 400 patients of the poorer 
 class; the asylum has received the patronage of the 
 Queen, and the title of the Royal Edinburgh Asylum 
 has been adopted. In the original establishment, adapted 
 for the higher class of patients, the ordinary rate of board 
 is £60 per annum, and the rate for privileged patients 
 405 
 
 £55 ; but the managers exercise a discretionary power of 
 admitting patients who are in straitened circumstances, 
 even to the original establishment, at a lower rate. 
 Where additional accommodation is required, or other 
 exclusive appliances are desired,a special arrangement is 
 made. In the new establishment, privileged patients 
 are admitted at £'20 per annum : any individual or col- 
 lective body that contributes £10 or upwards to the in- 
 stitution may present one privileged patient in respect of 
 each £10 contributed. A perpetual right of this nature 
 is also conferred at the rate of £50. For other patients 
 in the new establishment the rate of maintenance is £25 
 per annum. 
 
 The Asylum for the Blind, in Nicolson-street, was 
 opened in 1793, through the exertions of the Rev. Dr. 
 David Johnston, minister of North Leith, and other 
 charitable gentlemen of Edinburgh, and is supported by 
 subscriptions and donations. It is under the superin- 
 tendence of a president, vice-presidents, and a committee, 
 and affords relief to about ninety or a hundred inmates, 
 who are maintained, and instructed in the principles of 
 religion and in various branches of useful learning. They 
 are also taught such trades as are best adapted to their 
 peculiar circumstances, in which several of them have 
 been made so efficient, as, on leaving the asylum, to 
 maintain themselves and families in independence. The 
 buildings, which are plain and substantial, consist of two 
 houses that were purchased for the purpose, one in 1806, 
 and the other in IS'2'2 ; the males occupy the asylum 
 No. 58, and the females the asylum No. 38, Nicolson- 
 street. The premises originally occupied for the charity 
 were a house in Shakspeare-square. Besides the pro- 
 vision made for those who live in the asylum, oppor- 
 tunities of work and of instruction are afforded to about 
 as many more blind people out of the house. The founda- 
 tion of this benevolent institution was first suggested by 
 Dr. Blacklock and Mr. David Miller, both sufferers from 
 blindness ; and was actively carried out, as already stated, 
 by Dr. Johnston and others. 
 
 The Institution for Deaf and Dumb Children was founded 
 in 1810, and is under a president, vice-presidents, and 
 committee. The children are maintained, and, in addi- 
 tion to religious instruction, taught those branches of 
 learning of which they may be susceptible. They are 
 trained to habits of industry, and are instructed in 
 useful trades, the proceeds of which are added to the 
 funds of the institution. 
 
 Fettei Endowment arises from a bequest by Sir William 
 Fettes, Bart., of Comely Bank, who died in May 1836, 
 leaving the greater portion of his large fortune for the 
 maintenance, education, and outfit of young persons 
 whose parents have fallen into adverse circumstances. 
 
 The Normal Institution of the Church of Scotland is a 
 seminary established on a large scale, a few years ago, by 
 the General Assembly's education committee. It is in- 
 tended for the instruction of young persons devoting 
 themselves to the profession of teaching in the parochial 
 and other schools, and occupies a commodious structure 
 on the Castle hill, erected at an expense of upwards of 
 £8000, one-half granted by the education committee of 
 the privy council, and one-half raised by subscription. 
 The privy council committee also grants £500 per 
 annum towards the support of the seminary, on condi- 
 tion of the Assembly committee contributing an equal 
 amount for the same purpose. Domestic accommodatioD
 
 ED I N 
 
 E D I N 
 
 is provided in this building for male students ; and in 
 Young-street is a boarding-house, under the charge of a 
 clergyman's widow, for female students. The Normal 
 School of the Free Church, another institution for the 
 preparation of teachers, is held in Moray House, in 
 Canongate. 
 
 Among the numerous other institutions may be men- 
 tioned, the Royal Maternity Hospital, and the Magdalen 
 Asylum, both under the patronage of Her Majesty ; the 
 House of Refuge, Queensberry House; various religious 
 societies, societies for the relief of the poor, dispensaries, 
 schools, &c. 
 
 Eminent Natives. 
 
 Among the natives of the city of Edinburgh may be 
 enumerated the following : Alexander Alesius, a cele- 
 brated theologian of the sixteenth century, born in 1500 ; 
 James VI., born in the castle in 1566 ; Dr. Halter Balcan- 
 quel, an eminent divine of the seventeenth century, born 
 about 15S0 ; the pious and eloquent Robert Leighton, 
 Bishop of i)unblane, and afterwards Archbishop of 
 Glasgow, bom in 1610; Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Salis- 
 bury-, author of the History of the Reformation, born 1643 ; 
 Sir John Lauder, Lord Fountainhall, lawyer and states- 
 man, 1646; Dr. Archibald Pitcairne, eminent physician, 
 1652 ; John Keill, celebrated mathematician and natural 
 philosopher, 16*1 ; the accomplished statesman, John 
 Dalrymple, second Earl of Stair, 16*3; Dr. Alexander 
 fVebster, an eminent divine and statistical inquirer, about 
 170"; John Campbell, LL.D., a distinguished miscella- 
 neous writer, 1708; the accomplished Hugh Campbell 
 Hume, third and last Earl of Marchmont, same year; 
 Alexander Russell, author of the History of Aleppo, about 
 1710 ; James Short, optician, and improver of reflecting- 
 telescopes, I7IO ; William Tytler, of Woodhouselee, anti- 
 quarian writer, 17 H ; David Hume, the historian, I7II ; 
 John Stuart, third Earl of Bute, prime minister of Great 
 Britain, 1713; Allan Ramsay, portrait painter, son of 
 the author of The Gentle Shepherd, same year ; William 
 Strahan, the eminent printer to the king, and a patron of 
 literature, 1715; Dr. Hugh Blair, author of the celebrated 
 Sermons, I7I8; Francis Garden, a distinguished judge 
 under the designation of Lord Gardenstone, 1721 ; James 
 Elphmstone, a miscellaneous writer, same year ; Sir David 
 Dalrymple, a celebrated judge and antiquary, commonly 
 called Lord Hailes, his law title, 1726 ; Dr. James Hutton, 
 an eminent philosophical character, same year ; Robert 
 Adam, the architect, 1728 ; William Falconer, author of 
 the well-known poem of The Shipwreck, about 1*30 ; Dr. 
 Alexander Monro, celebrated as a teacher of medicine, 
 1733 ; Robert Mylne, architect, from whose plans Black- 
 friar.s-bridge, London, was built, 1734; Alexander Runci- 
 man, a painter of considerable note, 1736 ; John Donald- 
 son, also an eminent painter, son of a glover in the city, 
 1737; Sir William Forbes, of Pitsligo, a distinguished 
 banker and citizen, 1739; Dr. William Lothian, author 
 of a History of the United Provinces of the Netherlands, 
 1740; James Boswell, the friend and biographer of Dr. 
 Johnson, same year ; Ullliam SmelUe, a naturalist, and 
 useful miscellaneous writer, born about the same time ; 
 Dr. Gilbert Stuart, historical essayist, 1742; Henry 
 Mackenzie, one of the most illustrious names connected 
 with polite literature in Scotland, 1/45 ; William Cruick- 
 shanks, F.R.S., an eminent surgeon in London, partner 
 406 
 
 and successor of Dr. William Hunter of the Windmill- 
 street anatomical school, London, likewise in 1745; the 
 Hon. Henry Erskine, a great pleader, third son of the 
 tenth Earl of Buchan, 1746 ; the accomplished writer 
 and judge, Alexander Fraser Tytler, styled Lord Wood- 
 houselee, 1747 ; Hugo Arnot, author of the History of 
 Edinburgh, 1749 ; and Robert Fergusson, a poet of con- 
 siderable celebrity, 1750. 
 
 Within the compass also of the last hundred years, 
 Edinburgh has rivalled most cities of the empire in the 
 number and eminence of its gifted men ; and we select 
 the following from a long record of natives : John Brown, 
 an ingenious artist, born 1752 ; Lieut.-Col. John Camp- 
 bell, known for his gallant defence of the fortress of 
 Mangalore, in India, 1*53; Dugald Stewart, the highly- 
 distinguished metaphysical writer, son of Dr. Matthew 
 Stewart, professor of mathematics in the university, 1753; 
 Sir Henry Raeburn, celebrated portrait-painter, 1756 ; 
 John Pinkerton, the voluminous historian and critic, 
 175s ; Sir Walter Scott, Bart., the illustrious poet and 
 novelist, 1771 ; Francis Jeffrey, one of the judges of the 
 court of session, and distinguished for his ability as a 
 critic, 1773 ; Dr. Andrew Duncan, entitled to a promi- 
 nent place among those who have distinguished them- 
 selves in the history of medicine, and whose father, of 
 the same name, was professor in the university, 1773; 
 William Blackwood, the publisher, originator of the 
 magazine which bears his name, 1776; Lord Brougham, 
 formerly lord high chancellor of Great Britian, 1778; 
 Francis Horner, whose virtues, talents, and eloquence 
 raised him, while yet a young man, to so high a rank in 
 public life, 177s ; Patrick Gibson, an eminent artist, and 
 writer upon art, 1782 ; and Alexander Gordon Laing, 
 whose name is so mournfully connected with the his- 
 tory of African discovery, 1793. 
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE, or Mid Lothi.^n, the metro- 
 politan county of the kingdom of Scotland, bounded on 
 the north by the Firth of Forth, along the shore of which 
 it extends for about twelve miles ; on the east, by Had- 
 dingtonshire and small portions of the counties of Ber- 
 wick and Roxburgh ; on the south, by the counties of 
 Lanark, Peebles, and Selkirk ; and on the west, by Lin- 
 lithgowshire. It lies between 55° 39' and 55° 59' (N. Lat.) 
 and 2° 36' and 3° 33' (W. Long.), and is about thirty- 
 six miles in length from east to west, and eighteen miles 
 in extreme breadth, comprising an area of 360 square 
 miles, or 230,400 acres ; 41,779 houses, of which 38,927 
 are inhabited ; and containing a population of 225,454, 
 of whom 102,666 are males and 122,788 females. The 
 county originally occupied the central portion of the 
 ancient and extensive province of Lothian, or Loudon, 
 and from this circumstance it obtained the appellation of 
 Mid Lothian, by which it is still often designated. It 
 appears to have been inhabited at a very early period by 
 tixeOttadini andGadeni, two of the British tribes descended 
 from the Celts, who first made themselves masters of this 
 part of Britain, and who maintained their independence 
 till the time of the Roman invasion, when, to secure his 
 conquests, Agricola constructed a chain of forts extend- 
 ing from the Forth to the Clyde. Though frequently 
 assailed by incursions of the Caledonians and Britons, 
 the Romans, notwithstanding occasional reverses, re- 
 tained possession of the territories they had acquired, 
 which under their sway formed part of the province of 
 Valentia. After their departure from Britain, this dis-
 
 EDI N 
 
 ED I N 
 
 trict very soon fell into the power of the Saxons, who 
 established themselves under their chieftain Ida in the 
 surrounding countries, which they continued to govern 
 with absolute authority. In the reign of Malcolm II., 
 Uchtred, Earl of Northumberland, against whom that 
 monarch marched an army for the recovery of his right- 
 ful dominions, after a long contested battle on the banks 
 of the Tweed, gained the victory ; but, Uchtred being 
 soon afterwards assassinated, Malcolm, in prosecution of 
 his claims, renewed the war against the earl's successor, 
 Eadulph, whom he compelled to cede the disputed terri- 
 tory for ever ; and since that period it has continued to 
 form part of the kingdom of Scotland. Subsequently to 
 this date, the history of the county is so perfectly identi- 
 fied with the history of the capital, and that of Scotland 
 at large, that any fuller detail in this place would be 
 superfluous. 
 
 The introduction of Christianity appears to have been, 
 in some small degree, accomplished during the time of 
 the Romans ; but, the Saxons being strangers to that 
 faith, it made but little progress till, by the persevering 
 efforts of the pious Baldred and St. Cuthbert, it was 
 more generally diffused. Prior to the cession of Lothian 
 in the reign of Malcolm II., this district was comprised 
 in the ancient diocese of Lindisfarn ; it was subsequently 
 included in that of St. Andrew's, and continued to be 
 part thereof until the erection of the diocese of Edin- 
 burgh, in which it remained till the Revolution. Since 
 that period the county has formed a portion of the 
 synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and it now comprises 
 the presbytery of Edinburgh, and thirty parishes, besides 
 those in the city of Edinburgh. For civil purposes, it was 
 first erected into a sheriffdom in the reign of David I., 
 and is under the jurisdiction of a sheriff, by whom two 
 sheriffs-substitute are appointed ; the sessions and other 
 courts are held at Edinburgh, the county town, and 
 courts for the recovery of small debts at Edinburgh and 
 Dalkeith. Edinburgh is the only royal burgh ; Mussel- 
 burgh and Canongate are burghs of regality, and the 
 county also contains Dalkeith and Portsburgh, burghs of 
 barony, the town and port of Leith, and the flourishing 
 villages of Inveresk, Joppa, Portobcllo, Newhaven, Cor- 
 storphine, Currie, Mid Calder, West Calder, Gilmerton, 
 Loanhead, Roslin, Penicuick, Lasswade,Ratho, Bonnyrig, 
 Craraond,andPathhead, with numerous pleasant hamlets. 
 By the act of the'Zud of William IV., the county returns 
 one member to the imperial parliament. 
 
 Of the lands, about 100,000 acres are arable, 80,000 
 meadow and pasture, and the remainder moorland and 
 waste. The surface is diversified with hills, of which 
 the two principal ranges are the Pcntland and the Moor- 
 foot. The Pentland range, a continuation from the 
 county of Peebles on the south-west, extends to within 
 six miles of the sea and four miles of the city, occupying 
 a district of about forty square miles, and varying con- 
 siderably in elevation. Rising from a more level tract 
 of country, these hills appear loftier than the Moorfoot, 
 and they have generally a more bleak and barren aspect ; 
 the highest bills in the range within the county are, the 
 Caerketton, which has an elevation of 1,555 feet, and 
 the Spittal, of 1360. The Moorfoot hills, in the south- 
 eastern part of the county, occupy an area of nearly fifty 
 square miles, and range from 1400 to 18,5*0 feet in height. 
 They are interspersed with fertile dales and tracts of 
 arable land, and a large part of their acclivities is under 
 407 
 
 cultivation, producing excellent crops. This district is 
 watered by the Heriot and the Gala. Between the Pent- 
 land range and the Firth of Forth are the Braid and 
 Blackford hills, Craig-Lockhart, Craigmillar, Arthur's 
 Seat, Salisbury Crags, the ridge on which the castle and 
 the Old Town of Edinburgh are built, the Calton hill, 
 and Corstorphine hill. 
 
 Even the principal streams, not being of sufficient im- 
 portance to obtain the appellation of rivers, are generally 
 designated Waters, with the exception of the Esk. This 
 river originates in the confluence of the North and South 
 Esk, of whicli the former rises in the Pentland, and the 
 latter in the Moorfoot hills, and both, after a separate 
 course of twelve or fifteen miles, unite in the pleasure- 
 grounds of Dalkeith, and thence, flowing for about five 
 miles as the Esk, fall into the Forth at the bay of Mus- 
 selburgh. In its way to Dalkeith the North Esk runs 
 in a rocky channel, through a beautifully romantic tract 
 of country comprising Roslin, Hawthornden, Lasswade, 
 and Melville. The Almond Water, forming for a consi- 
 derable distance the western boundary of the county, 
 rises in the high grounds in Lanarkshire, and taking 
 a north-eastern course, passes through a level district, 
 frequently overflowing its banks, and joins the Firth of 
 Forth at Cramond. In its progress along the picturesque 
 valley to which it gives name, it is crossed by many 
 bridges, by an aqueduct of the Union canal, and a via- 
 duct of the Glasgow railway. The Leith Water has its 
 source in some springs in the parish of Currie, and after 
 a course of fourteen miles, in which it turns more than 
 100 mills, and flows under viaducts of the Glasgow and 
 Granton railways, and an aqueduct of the Union canal, 
 falls into the Firth at the harbour of Leith. The Gala 
 has its source at the base of the Moorfoot hills, and 
 after a southern course for about ten miles through the 
 vale of Gala, enters the county of Selkirk, and ultimately 
 falls into the Tweed near Galashiels. There are no lakes 
 of any importance. 
 
 The SOIL is greatly varied : the most prevalent kind 
 is clayey loam, alternated -with sand and gravel ; and 
 not unfrequently all the different varieties are found on 
 one farm. In this county the lands are generally fertile, 
 but the richest are in the lower part of the county, to- 
 wards the Forth, where there are not less than 70,000 
 acres of arable ground, producing the most luxuriant 
 crops. The farms are of moderate extent, few less than 
 100, and few more than 300 acres ; the system of agri- 
 culture is in the highest state of improvement. The 
 chief crops are wheat, barley, oats, beans, peas, potatoes, 
 and turnips ; vegetables and fruits of all kinds are raised 
 in abundance for the supply of the city, and the amount 
 paid for strawberries alone is calculated at £6000 per 
 annum. The farm-buildings are substantial and well- 
 arranged, generally of stone ; the dwelling-houses roofed 
 with slate, and the offices with tiles : the lands are 
 drained and inclosed. From the abundance of manure 
 collected in the city, little of any other kind is employed 
 in its vicinity ; but in the uplands, and on the distant 
 farms, lime is applied as a stimulant to the soil. The 
 cattle are chiefly of the Highland breed, and the horses 
 for husbandry mostly of the Lanarkshire, with a few of 
 the Clydesdale breed ; the milch-cows are usually of the 
 Ayrshire and Teviotdale breeds. Considerable attention 
 is paid to the management of the dairy-farms, of which 
 the main produce is milk and butter for the supply of
 
 ED 1 N 
 
 E D I N 
 
 the city and other towns. The sheep, large numbers of 
 which are pastured on the moorlands, are mostly of the 
 Cheviot breed. Swine are also reared in considerable 
 numbers, and large quantities of poultry and geese. 
 There are still some remains of the ancient Caledonian 
 forest which formerly spread over the greater portion of 
 the county, though, about the commencement of the six- 
 teenth century, the Borough Muir and other lands being 
 leased by grant of James V. to the corporation of Edin- 
 burgh, such quantities of timber were felled, that, in 
 order to procure purchasers, the magistrates bestowed 
 on every citizen who bought sufficient to new-front his 
 house, the privilege of extending it seven feet further 
 into the street. Numerous oaks of stately growth still 
 adorn the lands around the chief mansions ; and exten- 
 sive plantations have been formed in various parts, and 
 on all the principal hills, many of which are richly wooded 
 to their summit. 
 
 The substrata comprise limestone, freestone, and whin- 
 stone, all of which are quarried. Coal is very abundant 
 throughout the greater portion of the county ; and to- 
 wards Dalkeith, in the eastern district, is a very exten- 
 sive coalfield, reaching from the coast of Musselburgh, 
 for nearly fifteen miles, to the confines of Tweeddale. 
 The Dalkeith basin contains as much coal as the fields 
 of Stirling, Clackmannan, or Glasgow, and is remarkable 
 for a comparatively small development of hydrogen, an 
 advantage counterbalanced, however, by a great quan- 
 tity of carbonic acid. Mr. Bald has calculated that this 
 field alone would supply the consumption of Edinburgh 
 for .500 years, at the rate of 350,000 tons per annum ; 
 but he includes in this estimate the deeper coal, of 
 which none has been yet wrought. Coal appears to 
 have been first raised here for fuel by the monks of 
 Newbattle Abbey, in the latter part of the twelfth century. 
 Many of the seams are of very fine quality, and there 
 are at present about twenty mines in constant operation : 
 the progress of mining, however, is much impeded by 
 the quantity of water accumulating in the pits, which 
 can be drawn off only by engines of extraordinary power. 
 Lead was formerly wrought on the south side of the 
 Pentland hills, and was found to contain a considerable 
 proportion of silver. Copper-ore, also, was discovered on 
 the confines of Peeblesshire, but not in sufficient quantity 
 to remunerate the working of it. 
 
 The principal manufacture is that of linen, for which 
 there are several extensive bleaching and print fields in 
 the neighbourhood of the city, and on the banks of the 
 Esk. A considerable business is also carried on in the 
 manufacture of gunpowder, glass, soap, salt, candles, 
 bricks, tiles, and pottery of various kinds, and paper; 
 and the manufacture of silk has been introduced, for 
 which some mills have been erected on the banks of the 
 Union canal. There are large iron-works at Cramond, 
 works for chemical preparations, tanneries, distilleries, 
 breweries, and numerous other manufacturing establish- 
 ments, in all of -which, though the county is not distin- 
 guished for the extent of its produce in this respect, the 
 greatest improvement has been made in the quality of 
 the articles. Every facility of intercourse with the neigh- 
 bouring districts is aflforded by roads kept in excellent 
 repair, by the Union canal, the Firth of Forth, and the 
 Edinburgh and Glasgow, the North-British, the Cale- 
 donian, and the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railways. 
 The maritime commerce of the county is very important, 
 408 
 
 and, together with that of Peeblesshire and Selkirkshire, 
 and much of that of the East and West Lothians, is 
 concentrated at the port of Leith. The shores of the 
 Firth are low and sandy, and for a considerable breadth 
 covered at high water ; the Firth abounds with herrings 
 and other fish, and the beach with shell-fish of every 
 kind : there are some valuable beds of oysters. The an- 
 nual value of real property in the county, some years 
 ago, was £l,0-4,99'2, of which £'239,189 were for lands, 
 £781,236 for houses, £15,511 for mines, £3747 for quar- 
 ries, £8923 for canal navigation, £5607 for railways, and 
 the rest for other kinds of real property. The principal 
 remains of antiquity are of Roman origin, and chiefly in 
 the vicinity of the capital : numerous camps are found 
 in various places, one of which, near Crichton Castle, is 
 in a very perfect state. Circular camps, supposed to be 
 of Danish formation, are also numerous, some consisting 
 of three, and others of more, concentric intrenchments 
 of earth and stones. In the parish of Heriot are the 
 remains of a Druidical circle ; and in Kirkliston are two 
 upright stones, commemorating a victory obtained by 
 Kenneth, commander of the forces under Malcolm II., 
 over the usurper Constantine. The county contains 
 many cairns, barrows, and tumuli, near which stone 
 coffins have been found ; the remains of ancient castles, 
 some of which were hunting-seats of the kings ; the ruins 
 of various religious houses ; and other relics of antiquity, 
 all of which, with the gentlemen's seats, are described ia 
 the articles on their several localities. 
 
 EDINKILLIE, or Edenkeillte, a parish, in the 
 county of Elgin, S| miles (S.) from Forres ; containing 
 1237 inhabitants. This place derives its name, signifying 
 in the Gaelic language " the face of the wood", from the 
 ancient forests of Darnaway and Drummine, of which 
 the greater part of the former and the whole of the latter 
 were once within the limits of the parish. A charter 
 granted by David Bruce is still extant, appointing Richard 
 Comyne, ancestor of the present proprietor of Altyre, 
 keeper of the king's forest of Darnaway; and in 1478, 
 a similar charter was bestowed by James III., upon 
 Thomas Cummyne, of the same place, investing him 
 with the office of warden of the forest of Drummine. 
 The parish is frequently called Brae-Moray. It is about 
 thirteen miles in extreme length, and seven miles at the 
 greatest breadth, varying considerably in form, and com- 
 prising an area of nearly 34,000 acres, of which 3400 
 are arable, 4700 woodland and plantations, and the re- 
 mainder meadow, pasture, and waste. The surface is 
 diversified with numerous hills, the highest of which, 
 named Knock-Moray, has an elevation of about 1000 
 feet above the level of the sea, commanding from its 
 summit an extensive and richly-varied prospect over the 
 surrounding country. The river Findhorn, which has 
 its source in the county of Inverness, flows for nearly 
 seven miles in a winding course through the parish, and 
 falls into the Moray Firth two miles below Forres : the 
 Divie rises in the hills in the southern boundary of the 
 parish, and after a north-east course of almost nine miles, 
 runs into the Findhorn; and the Dorback, issuing from 
 the lake of Lochindorb, falls into the Divie near the 
 church. On the banks of the Findhorn, which passes 
 through a tract of country remarkable for the picturesque 
 beauty of its scenery, is an extensive heronry. At Sluie, 
 on that river, is a valuable salmon-fishery, the pro- 
 perty of the Earl of Moray, which, previously to the im-
 
 EDI N 
 
 EDNA 
 
 provement of the fisheries nearer the sea, was amazingly 
 productive ; it is now let at an annual rent of £50, to a 
 company who employ four men with drag-nets, taking 
 on the average not more than 700 fish annually. The 
 river abounds with trout, which are also found in the 
 Divie and the Dorback. 
 
 The lake of Lochindorb, partly in this parish, is cele- 
 brated for the remains of a castle situated on an island 
 within its limits, of which Edward I. of England took 
 possession, on his route to Inverness, in 1303, and in 
 which he resided for some time on his return, and re- 
 ceived the submission of the northern estates of the 
 kingdom. This castle, in 1336, became the abode of 
 Catherine de Beaumont, widow of David Hastings, Earl 
 of Atholl, and was besieged by Sir Andrew Moray, who 
 had succeeded Douglas in the regency of Scotland dur- 
 ing the captivity of David Bruce ; but on the approach 
 of Edward III. of England, Sir Andrew retreated with 
 his forces to his castle of Darnaway. Edward placed a 
 garrison of English in the castle ; and the fortress after- 
 wards passed from the Earl of Moray to the Campbells 
 of Cawdor. It is now the property of the Earl of Sea- 
 field. 
 
 In some parts the soil of the arable lands is a brown 
 loam alternated with a rich black mould, and in others 
 light, dry, and gravelly ; with large tracts of moss. The 
 crops are oats, barley, wheat, peas, potatoes, and tur- 
 nips, with the usual grasses. Of late years the system 
 of husbandry has been greatly improved ; much waste 
 has been reclaimed and brought into profitable cultiva- 
 tion ; the lands have been well drained, and inclosed 
 chiefly with sunk fences, faced with stone, and planted 
 with hedge-rows of thorn intermixed with forest-trees. 
 The black-cattle reared in the pastures are principally 
 of the Highland breed, with a few of larger size bought 
 in autumn, and, when fattened, sold to dealers for the 
 southern markets ; the sheep, of which about S.tOO are 
 reared, are the black-faced, and about 250 of the Cheviot 
 breed are annually purchased in September, and fed on 
 turnips, either for the butcher, or to be sold with their 
 lambs in the following year. The natural woods consist 
 of oak, ash, beech, elm, sycamore, Spanish-chesnut, 
 mountain-ash, poplar, birch, holly, alder, larch, and spruce 
 and Scotch firs. A large quantity of wood which had 
 arrived at maturity in the forest has been cut down of 
 late years, and replaced with young plants, chiefly oaks, 
 of which about 100,000 are planted every year. The 
 plantations are still more extensive than the natural 
 woods, and were principally formed by a late Earl of 
 Moray, who, between the years I767 and 1791, planted 
 10,591,000 trees, of which 9,687,000 were Scotch firs, 
 596,000 oaks, and the remainder various kinds of forest- 
 trees. The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £2774. 
 
 Dunphail House is an elegant mansion built after a 
 design by Mr. Playfair in 1829, and situated on a 
 terrace on the bank of the Divie, in a demesne tastefully 
 laid out in parterres and shrubberies, and richly embel- 
 lished with plantations. The scenery is beautifully 
 picturesque, and heightened by the ruins of an ancient 
 castle, which are seen from the house rising above the 
 trees that surround the base. Relugas House is a 
 handsome mansion seated in a demesne between the 
 rivers Findhorn and Dorback ; it has been enlarged by 
 an addition of a noble suite of apartments, ninety-six 
 Vol. I.— 409 
 
 feet in length, within the last twenty years, and the 
 grounds are finely planted. Logic House stands on the 
 east bank of the Findhorn ; and a handsome shooting- 
 lodge has been erected by the Hon. John Stuart, and is 
 occupied during the season by various members of the 
 Moray family. The only village in the parish is a 
 cluster of houses at Conicaval, near the northern ex- 
 tremity. There are two small inns in the parish. Faci- 
 lity of communication with Forres and the adjacent 
 towns is afforded by the road from Forres to Perth, by 
 excellent roads formed by Sir William G. G. Cumming, 
 of Altyre, Bart., and others by Charles L. Cumming 
 Bruce, Esq., of Dunphail : there are substantial bridges 
 over the Divie and the Dorback, replacing those destroyed 
 by floods in 1829. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Forres, synod of Moray. The minister's 
 stipend is about £180, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £12 a year ; patron, the Earl of Moray. Edinkillie 
 church, situated on the east bank of the river Divie, is a 
 plain structure built in 17-11, and repaired in 1813, and 
 contains 500 sittings. The parochial school is well con- 
 ducted : the master has a salary of £34, with a house 
 and garden, and the fees average £16 ; he has also an 
 allowance from the trustees of Dick's bequest. There 
 are schools at Conicaval and Tullydivie, both supported 
 by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge ; 
 and at Halfdavoch is a female school, to the mistress of 
 which Sir William G. G. Cumming pays £5 per annum. 
 Some remains still exist, as already noticed, of the 
 ancient castle of Dunphail, of the foundation of which 
 there is no authentic record : after the battle of the 
 Standard, the fortress was besieged by Randolph, Earl 
 of Moray, and gallantly defended by Cumming, its pro- 
 prietor. The Doune hill of Relugas is of very great 
 antiquity, and is supposed to have been a stronghold to 
 which the inhabitants of the district retired with their 
 cattle, on the frequent irruption of the Danes. It is a 
 conical hill of very precipitous ascent, nearly surrounded 
 at the base by the Divie, and, where undefended by the 
 river, strongly intrenched with ramparts of stone. By 
 some antiquaries it is connected with a chain of signal- 
 posts used in times of danger, and is said to have been 
 at one time occupied by the Romans, who are thought 
 to have had a chain of similar forts extending from 
 Forres to Brae-Mar, and thence to Perth. 
 
 EDINVILLE, a hamlet, in the parish of Dallas, 
 county of Elgin ; containing 17 inhabitants. 
 
 EDMONSTONE, a village, in the parish of New- 
 ton, county of Edinburgh, 3| miles (S. E. by E.) from 
 Edinburgh ; containing 143 inhabitants. It lies in the 
 western part of the parish, and is one of several small 
 villages within its hmits, some of which consist of long 
 rows of red-tiled houses, chiefly inhabited by colliers. 
 The road from Edinburgh to Dalkeith passes at a short 
 distance on the south ; and a little westward of the 
 village is Edmonstone House, an elegant residence finely 
 situated amidst beautiful plantations. The chapel at 
 Edmonstone is a handsome building in the later English 
 style, now used only as a mausoleum for the Wauchop 
 family, of Edmonstone House. 
 
 EDNAM, a parish, in the district of Kelso, county 
 of Roxburgh; containing 615 inhabitants, of whom 
 146 are in the village, 2j miles (N. by E.) from Kelso. 
 The name of this parish, which is a contraction of the 
 
 3 G
 
 EDNA 
 
 ED RO 
 
 ■word Edenham, signifies a hamlet on the Eden, and is 
 descriptive of the situation of the village near that river. 
 Various facts are recorded in connexion with the early 
 history of the place ; they relate to its ecclesiastical 
 affairs, and reach back to the beginning of the twelfth 
 century. About this period, the waste of Aednaham was 
 peopled, and a church built in honour of St. Cuthbert, 
 by Thor the Long, to whom the lands had been given by 
 the crown. The church had two chapels attached to it, 
 one situated at a place called Newton or New-town to 
 distinguish it from the old village of Ednam, and the 
 other situated at Naithan's-thirn or Nanthorn. Robert, 
 Bishop of St. Andrew's, who died in 115S, ratified the 
 connexion between the parochial church and the chapel 
 of Newton ; and Bishop Arnold, who died in 1162, con- 
 firmed to the monks of Coldingham the possession of 
 all the three places of worship. There svas also an hos- 
 pital dedicated to St. Lawrence, supposed to have been 
 founded by the Edraonstons of Ednam, who were its 
 patrons ; it is referred to in 1348 in a writ of Edward 
 in., who therein directs that the establishment, with the 
 hospital of St. Mary of Berwick, should be restored to 
 Robert de Burton. 
 
 The PARISH is nearly square in form, its length being 
 three miles and a quarter, and its breadth three miles, 
 and it contains 5500 acres. The surface is pleasantly 
 varied by undulations and gently-rising hills, well culti- 
 vated, or covered with rich verdure and flourishing 
 plantations ; and the parish being only about a mile and 
 a half distant from the English border, the scenery 
 partakes very much of the general character of that on 
 each side of the Tweed. Ednam hill, on the east of 
 the village, forms an interesting object in the picture ; 
 it is arable to the summit, and commands an extensive 
 view of the surrounding country. The river Eden con- 
 stitutes another striking feature in the parish, flowing 
 through a district ornamented w^ith hedge-rows and 
 with numerous clumps of trees standing in the midst of 
 cultivated fields. On the south-east runs the Tweed. 
 In some parts the soil consists of loam resting upon a 
 gravelly subsoil, and in others it is clay, with a less 
 retentive subsoil than is usually found in such situa- 
 tions ; upon the same subsoil there is light gravelly 
 earth, and in some places the soil is moorish. These 
 four different descriptions are found in nearly equal 
 portions. The cultivated land consists of about 3700 
 acres, two-fifths of which are in grain, two in pasture 
 and hay, and one in turnips and fallow ; seventy acres 
 are in pasture along the banks of the rivers, forty in 
 pleasure-grounds, and about seventy in plantations. 
 Grain of all kinds is produced, with good crops of pota- 
 toes, turnips, and hay. The cattle are those usually 
 termed the short-horned, and the sheep are of the Lei- 
 cester breed, of which kind a flock was lately reared by 
 one of the farmers of so superior a description that it 
 excited the attention of agriculturists in distant parts 
 of the kingdom. The lands are highly cultivated, and 
 husbandry is thoroughly understood ; the soil is well 
 drained, and embankments have been constructed to a 
 considerable extent. Nearly the whole of the substratum 
 is calcareous : there is a very thin bed of freestone. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £S3'29. 
 
 There is a mansion-house named Hendersyde, a 
 handsome modern building, the residence of one of the 
 heritors. The village is neat in its appearance, the 
 410 
 
 houses being regularly built, and covered with tiles or 
 slate; the woollen manufacture was carried on till about 
 twenty years ago, and there is still a brewery. The river 
 Eden, which rises in the parish of Gordon, and divides 
 that of Ednam into two parts, flows close to the village, 
 and has two stone and two wooden bridges in the parish, 
 all in the best state of repair : three turnpike-roads, one 
 of them between Berwick and Kelso, intersect the parish, 
 and there are several other roads. Ecclesiastically the 
 parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of Kelso, 
 synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; patron, the Crown. The 
 stipend, with an allowance for communion elements, is 
 £158. 6. S., of which £111 are payable from the land, 
 and the rest from the exchequer ; an excellent manse 
 was finished in 1834, and there is a glebe of the annual 
 value of £15. Ednam church stands near the village, 
 and accommodates about 260 persons ; it was built 
 in ISOO, and is in good repair. There is a parochial 
 school, in which mathematics and French are taught, 
 with all the ordinary branches of education ; the master 
 has the maximum salary, with about £36 fees, and a 
 house and garden. Thomson, author of the Seasons, 
 was born in the manse, his father, the Rev. Thomas 
 Thomson, being minister of Ednam; and in 1820 an 
 obelisk, fifty-two feet in height, was erected to his 
 memory on some rising ground about a mile from the 
 village, at the expense of the Ednam Club, an associa- 
 tion of gentlemen who annually celebrated the poet's 
 birthday here. There is evidence to prove that the 
 father of Cook the circumnavigator was a native of Ed- 
 nam. Mr. William Dawson, the distinguished agricul- 
 turist, who introduced turnip husbandry into Scotland, 
 was also a native of the parish. 
 
 EDROM, a parish, in the county of Berwick, 3 
 miles (N. E. by E.) from Dunse ; containing, with the 
 village of Allanton, 1415 inhabitants. This place is said 
 to derive its name, anciently Aderham, from the situation 
 of its village near the river Whitadder. Ader is deduced 
 from the Cambro-British word ^uedHr, signifying "run- 
 ning water"; and ham is -Anglo-Saxon, signifying "a 
 village ": hence Aderham, the village on the bank of the 
 ader, or river. The river is called Whitadder in refer- 
 ence to the colour of the water ; another river, the 
 Blackadder, being so called on account of the dark 
 colour of its water. The parish is distinguished as the 
 scene of the death of Sir Anthony D'Arcy, a native of 
 France, who in 1517 was appointed warden of the marches 
 and governor of Dunbar Castle, in the room of Lord 
 Home, by the Duke of Albany, regent of Scotland during 
 the minority of James V. D'Arcy is supposed to have 
 inveigled his predecessor to Edinburgh, where, with his 
 brother. Home was treacherously put to death ; and in 
 retaliation of this, David Home, laird of Wedderburn, 
 attacked D'Arcy and his party at Langton, and put 
 them to flight, and D'Arcy's horse being engulphed in a 
 bog, he was compelled to flee on foot, and was overtaken 
 at Broomhouse, in this parish, by the laird of Wedder- 
 burn, who killed him on the spot, and carrying his head 
 in triumph through Dunse moor, fi,\ed it on the battle- 
 ments of Home Castle. In 1674, a very large meeting 
 of Covenanters assembled at EastNisbet for the purpose 
 of celebrating the sacrament, more than 3000 commu- 
 nicating on the occasion. The parish is about five 
 miles and a half in average length, and two miles and a 
 half in average breadth, and comprises 8400 acres, of
 
 EDRO 
 
 EDZE 
 
 which 7500 are arable, 600 woodland and plantations, 
 and the remainder rough pasture and waste. Its surface 
 is generally flat, with a slight degree of acclivity ; and 
 the scenery, which is enlivened by the windings of rivers, 
 and enriched with woods and plantations, is in many 
 parts exceedingly picturesque. The Whitadder forms 
 the northern boundary of the parish for nearly six miles, 
 and after embellishing much beautiful scenery, falls into 
 the Tweed within two miles of Berwick. The Black- 
 adder, a stream about fifty feet in breadth, intersects 
 the parish, dividing it into two almost equal portions, 
 and, after a course of about six miles within its limits, 
 flowing into the Whitadder at the village of Allanton. 
 
 In some parts the soil is shallow and poor, in others 
 a rich and fertile clay, with some tracts of barren moor- 
 land ; the crops are, grain of all kinds, with potatoes 
 and turnips. The system of agriculture is in an ad- 
 vanced state, and the five-shift course of husbandry 
 is generally prevalent ; the lands are well drained and 
 inclosed, the farm-houses and offices substantially built, 
 and all the more recent improvements in agricultural 
 implements have been adopted. Great numbers of 
 sheep of various breeds, with a cross between the Lei- 
 cestershire and the Cheviot, are reared ; and also many 
 cattle are pastured here. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £15,0'20. The woods and plan- 
 tations are in a thriving condition ; the former consist 
 of the usual varieties of hard-woods, and the plantations, 
 of fir, intermixed with different kinds of forest-trees : on 
 one estate the thinning of the wood produces a return 
 of £300 per annum. The substrata are chiefly clay, 
 marl, and sandstone. There is an extensive tract of 
 shell-marl bog on the lands of Kimmerghame, from which 
 great quantities of marl have been obtained, and of which 
 one cubic yard is considered to be equal in efficacy to a 
 boll of lime. In draining this bog and removing the 
 marl, several beavers' heads and deer's horns were dis- 
 covered. The sandstone is of a whitish colour, occurs 
 in beds varying from twenty to thirty feet in thickness, 
 and is quarried in several parts. Red sandstone, resting 
 on conglomerate, is also found. 
 
 Broom House, one of the seats in the parish, is a 
 spacious and handsome mansion erected in 1813, on 
 the site of an ancient baronial castle. In excavating for 
 the foundation, several human skeletons were found ; and 
 some years ago one was found, inclosed in a stone coffin. 
 Within the grounds is the grave of Sir Anthony D'Arcy. 
 Nisbet House is a fine castellated mansion, beautifully 
 situated : Kimmerghame is an ancient mansion on the 
 Blackadder; and Kelloe, AUanbank, and Blackadder 
 House are all handsome residences, likewise seated on 
 the banks of the Blackadder. In the grounds of the last 
 is a beautiful conservatory in the early English style of 
 architecture ; the frame is of cast iron, and the windows, 
 enriched with elegant tracery, are embellished with stained 
 glass, the whole raised by the late Thomas Boswall, Esq., 
 at an expense of several thousand pounds. Edrom House 
 is beautifully situated, commanding some very rich sce- 
 nery, with distant views of the hills of Dunse and Cock- 
 burn, and the Lamraermoor and Cheviot hills. There 
 are three corn-mills on the Blackadder, to two of which 
 is added machinery for sawing timber ; and on the Whit- 
 adder is a paper-mill, chiefly for the manufacture of 
 printing and writing papers, and which is conducted on 
 a very extensive scale, giving occupation to eighty per- 
 411 
 
 sons. Great facility of intercourse is afforded by the 
 Dunse branch of the North-British railway. Ecclesias- 
 tically the parish is in the presbytery of Chirnside, synod 
 of Merse and Teviotdale, and in the patronage of the 
 Crown ; the minister's stipend is £242. 1 6., with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £15 per annum. The present 
 church, erected in 1732, and subsequently repaired is a 
 spacious and neat edifice, adapted for a congregation of 
 450 persons : from several inscriptions with ancient 
 dates, it would appear that portions of the old church 
 have been incorporated with the building. Edrom paro- 
 chial school is well attended ; the master has a salary of 
 £34, with £15 fees, a house, and an allowance in money 
 in lieu of garden. There are three libraries in the parish 
 for the use of young persons, supported by subscription 
 and donations. 
 
 EDWARD, KING, in the county of Aberdeen. — 
 See King-Edward. 
 
 EDZELL, a parish, partly in the county of Kincar- 
 dine, but chiefly in that of Forfar, 6 miles (N.) from 
 Brechin ; containing 1064 inhabitants, of whom 290 are 
 in the village. This place, in ancient documents desig- 
 nated Edziel, perhaps derives its name from a Gaelic 
 term signifying " the cleft", or " dividing of the waters". 
 In the old records of the presbytery the name is written 
 Edgehill, a term which is quite applicable to the parish, 
 as all the arable ground, with the exception of that in the 
 southern or peninsular part, stretches along the edge or 
 foot of the hills. It is doubtful which of these two de- 
 rivations is correct. The most ancient proprietors of 
 land are said to have been a family of the name of Stir- 
 ling, from whom considerable property came by mar- 
 riage to the Lindsays of Glenesk, who possessed nearly 
 the whole of the parish, and have left a memorial of 
 their connexion with the place in the exemption, remain- 
 ing to this day, of the lands of Edzell from the payment 
 of custom at the great June fair of Brechin. About the 
 year 1/14 the estates were purchased by the Earl of 
 Panmure, who was wounded at Sheriffmuir, and the pro- 
 perty, with the earl's other estates, afterwards escheated 
 to the crown. It came subsequently into the hands of 
 the York Buildings' Company, and eventually passed by 
 purchase to William, Earl of Panmure in the peerage of 
 Ireland, a near branch of the family, from whom it has 
 descended to the present owner. Edzell Castle, now an 
 extensive ruin, consists of two towers, formerly connected 
 by a splendid range of apartments ; the southern por- 
 tion, called Stirling's tower, is much older than the other, 
 and is supposed to have been built and inhabited by the 
 Stirlings. The fortress was occupied by a garrison of 
 Cromwell's in 1651 ; and though it ceased to be a resi- 
 dence in 1715, it was held in March or April 1746 by 
 Colonel John Campbell, afterwards Duke of Argyll, who 
 commanded the Argyll Highlanders, the Duke of Cum- 
 berland then marching through the country. 
 
 ThevARisH lies on the north-east border of Forfarshire. 
 Its southern part is a peninsula about three miles long 
 and two wide, formed by the two branches of the North 
 Esk, called the North and West waters ; and at the 
 northern extremity of this peninsular portion, where the 
 West water, entering the parish from Lethnot, takes a 
 southern direction, nearly at right angles with its former 
 course, the parish expands in width to about four miles. 
 The lands in the north lie for six miles on the east and 
 about nine on the west side of the North water, or prin- 
 
 3 G2
 
 1 
 
 E D ZE 
 
 cipal branch of the North Esk. About 4'270 acres in 
 the parish are arable ; '200 are occupied by wood, of 
 which about ninety acres, chiefly larch, were planted at 
 the beginning of the present century ; and 1060 acres 
 are waste, affording only a little pasture, though one- 
 third of the extent is considered capable of improvement. 
 Besides these lands, there is a hilly surface of about 
 forty-six square miles, covered with brown heath, with 
 here and there verdant patches, produced by the moisture 
 of neighbouring springs, or the fertility of a superior 
 soil. The crops consist chiefly of oats, barley, potatoes, 
 turnips, and hay ; the farms in general are of moderate 
 size, and in many instances the obstructions presented 
 by moors, moss, and high grounds forbid enlargement. 
 This parish is wholly the property of Lord Panmure, 
 with the exception of the Kincardineshire portion, which 
 is one-seventh of the whole, and was formerly a separate 
 parish, called New Dosk, the old burying-ground still 
 remaining. The substrata consist partly of red sand- 
 stone, exhibiting several varieties ; and granite, with 
 some other rocks, is found. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £2991, of which £4S6 are for 
 Kincardineshire. 
 
 The village of Edzell, formerly called Slateford, has re- 
 cently been much enlarged and improved. Lord Panmure 
 having in IS39 granted building-leases for ninety-nine 
 years. Many good houses have accordingly been erected 
 according to a regular plan, and much benefit has re- 
 sulted from the conditions requiring every tenement to 
 be raised with stone and lime, and covered with slate, 
 and to have a small allotment in front for flowers, in- 
 closed by a low wall. The proprietor has lately erected 
 in the centre a handsome building for a post-office and 
 reading-room ; there is an excellent and convenient inn, 
 and many visiters take lodgings here in summer, at- 
 tracted by the salubrity of the locality, and the beautiful 
 scenery on the North Esk. A mill for the carding and 
 spinning of wool, and the manufacture of blankets, has 
 been in operation for some years in the southern ex- 
 tremity of the parish, employing between thirty and 
 forty hands, men and women ; and about twenty-seven 
 looms are engaged in the manufacture of coarse linen for 
 an establishment at Montrose. On the North Esk is a 
 salmon-fishery, of inconsiderable value. The dairy pro- 
 duce is generally carried for sale to the market at Bre- 
 chin, and the grain is shipped at Montrose. There is a 
 long-established fair, now on the decline, in August ; 
 and three fairs of more recent date, originated by Lord 
 Panmure, for sheep and cattle, and which are on the in- 
 crease, are regularly held in the months of May, July, 
 and October, respectively. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 in the presbytery of Brechin, synod of Angus and Mearns, 
 and in the patronage of the Crown : the minister has a 
 stipend of £158, with a manse, and a glebe of about 
 twenty acres, ten of which are moorland. The old church 
 stood near the West water, and the churchyard is still 
 used as the common place of burial : the present church, 
 built in ISIS, is situated at the north end of the village. 
 The members of the Free Church have a place of worship. 
 Edzell parochial school, situated in the village, affords 
 instruction in the ordinary branches ; the master has a 
 salary of £34, with a house and garden, and £'24 fees. 
 A school has also been established, and premises built, 
 in the Kincardineshire district, by the proprietor of that 
 portion, Sir John Gladstone, Bart., of Fasque ; it has an 
 412 
 
 ELAN 
 
 endowment of £10 per annum, making an income for 
 the teacher, together with the school fees, of about £'24. 
 At Colmellie are two Druidical circles ; and the ancient 
 place of execution for the district still retains the name 
 of Callow Hill. 
 
 EIGG, an island, in the parish of Small Isles, 
 and county of Inverness; containing 546 inhabitants. 
 This highly interesting island is one of a cluster of isles 
 which constitute the parish ; it is about three miles and 
 a half in length and two and a half in breadth, and lies 
 ten miles westward of Arisaig on the main land. The 
 whole shore is rocky, with the exception of Lagg bay, on 
 the west side ; the surface is uneven, and diversified by 
 hills covered with heath, which in some places is mixed 
 with coarse grass. The low grounds are tolerably pro- 
 ductive where there is a sufficiency of soil, and about a 
 third part of the island is arable and pasture land, the 
 rest being moor and moss, applied to the rearing of cat- 
 tle, which is the chief occupation of the inhabitants. The 
 highest elevation is towards the south, where a singularly- 
 formed hill, called the Scuir of Eigg, terminates in a 
 lofty peak, said to be 1340 feet in height, and surrounded 
 by perpendicular precipices. Through the middle of the 
 island runs a hollow, called in Gaehc Eagg ; and hence 
 is derived its name : on the south-eastern side are several 
 caves. There are various Danish forts ; and a barrow 
 here is said to be the burial-place of Donnan, the tute- 
 lary saint of the island. 
 
 EILDON, a hamlet, in the parish and district of 
 Melrose, county of Roxburgh, li mile (E. S. E.) from 
 Melrose ; containing 56 inhabitants. It is situated in 
 the south-eastern part of the parish, and on the road 
 from Melrose to Jedburgh. In the vicinity is the elegant 
 mansion of Eildon Hall, surrounded by fine plantations ; 
 and about a mile westward are the Eildon hills, which 
 are partly in Bowden parish. They are three in number, 
 and are of conical form, rising from one broad base ; the 
 elevation of two of them is about 1400 feet above the 
 sea, and the north-east hill is chiefly remarkable for the 
 vestiges of a regularly-formed Roman camp, communi- 
 cating with military stations on the two other hills. The 
 views that are obtained from the summits are magni- 
 ficent, and embrace a great part of the south-eastern 
 district of Scotland. 
 
 EILEAN-NAN-NAOMH, county of Sutherland. 
 — See Tongue. 
 
 EILEAN-NAN-RON, an island, in the parish of 
 Tongue, county of Sutherland ; containing 4'2 inha- 
 bitants. This island, situated to the west of Eilean-nan- 
 Naomh, has at high water the appearance of two islands, 
 and is partly under cultivation by a few- tenants who, 
 from a hollow in the form of a basin, containing land of 
 much fertility, raise some fine crops of grain. The rocks 
 rise precipitously to a great height, and on the north 
 side are divided by numerous fissures, through which 
 the wind rushes with force, carrying with it quantities 
 of spray. — See Tongue. 
 
 ELAN A BHRIU, an isle, in the parish of Eddra- 
 CHiLLis, county of Sutherland. It hes off the west- 
 ern coast, and derives its name, signifying " the Island 
 of the Judge", from the circumstance of the bowels of 
 Judge Morrison of Lewis having been interred here, 
 after his murder by Little John Mac Dhoil Mhich Huish- 
 dan. The isle is about four acres in extent, and fur- 
 nishes good pasture for lands. It is always held by the
 
 ELG A 
 
 ELGI 
 
 minister of Eddrachillis, as the gift of the noble family 
 of Mac Kay, Lords Reay. 
 
 ELAN A GHARIN, an isle, iu the parish of Assynt, 
 county of Sutherland. It is a small islet off the west- 
 ern coast, attached to the farm of Unapool, and appro- 
 priated to pasturage. 
 
 ELAN AN DU, isles, in the parish of Assynt, 
 county of Sutherland. They are a small cluster, the 
 name of which signifies " the black islands", lying, like 
 the preceding isle, off the western coast of the county. 
 They are appropriated to pasturage, but are of little 
 value. 
 
 ELAN MHUIN, an isle, in the parishes of Appin, 
 county of Argyll, and Kilmalie, county of Inver- 
 ness. It is situated in Loch Leven, and is of small ex- 
 tent, with two rocky islets adjoining. The island is the 
 joint property of the proprietors of Calart in Inverness- 
 shire, and Glencoe in Argyllshire, to whom the rent of 
 the land is paid alternately ; and it is therefore generally 
 considered as alternately in the county of Inverness and 
 in Argyll. 
 
 ELDERSLIE, for a time an ecclesiastical district, in 
 the Abbey parish of the town of Paisley, Upper ward 
 of the county of Renfrew, 2| miles (W. by S.) from 
 Paisley; containing 1086 inhabitants. The village, 
 which is on the road from Paisley to Beith, is distin- 
 guished as the birthplace of the celebrated Sir William 
 Wallace, who was born in an ancient house near its west- 
 ern extremity. In the garden of the house, close to the 
 foundation of the wall, a stone was dug up, bearing the 
 inscription W. W. W., with the legend " Christ is only 
 my Redeemer", and which is preserved in the cabinet of 
 Alexander Speirs, Esq., of Elderslie. On the opposite 
 side of the road is an old tree called Wallace's tree, iu 
 which that hero concealed himself when pursued by his 
 enemies. The village is pleasantly situated, and abun- 
 dantly supplied with water from numerous fine springs, 
 one of which, discovered while boring for coal, is called 
 the Bore. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in weav- 
 ing, and also in the spinning of cotton, for which two 
 extensive mills have been erected, affording employment 
 to about 400 persons. The Glasgow, Paisley, and John- 
 stone canal, and the Glasgow, Paisley, and Ayr railway, 
 which pass in the vicinity, afford ample facilities of com- 
 munication. Elderslie ecclesiastical district included 
 also the villages of Quarrelton and Thorn, and was 
 about three miles in length and one mile in average 
 breadth : the church is a neat structure in the later En- 
 glish style of architecture, erected by subscription, and 
 containing about 800 sittings. 
 
 ELDRIG, a village, in the parish of Mochrum, 
 county of Wigtown, 3 miles (N. by W.) from Port- 
 Wiliiam ; containing 217 inhabitants. It is situated in 
 the south-west part of the parish, and in the vicinity of 
 a stream which flows from Loch Eldrig into Luce bay. 
 
 ELGAR, an isle, in the parish of Shapinshay, county 
 of Orkney. This place, also called Eller-Holm, lies a 
 little southward of the island of Shapinshay, from which 
 it is separated by a reef of rocks that are almost dry at 
 low water. It furnishes pasture for a number of sheep 
 and young cattle in summer, and by its favourable situ- 
 ation gives the utmost security to the fine harbour of 
 Elwick. There are evident marks of its having been 
 formerly inhabited, though at present no one resides 
 upon it. 
 
 413 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 ELGIN, a burgh, mar- 
 ket-town, and parish, in the 
 county of Elgin, of which it 
 is the capital, 63^ miles (N. 
 W.) from Aberdeen, and 174 
 (N.) from Edinburgh ; con- 
 taining 5216 inhabitants, of W 
 whom 4325 are in the town. 
 This place appears to have 
 derived its name and foun- 
 dation from Elgin, or Hel- 
 gyn, general of the army of 
 Sigurd, the Norwegian Earl 
 of Orkney ; who about the year 930 made himself 
 master of Caithness, Sutherland, Ross, and Moray, in 
 the southern part of which last district he built a town, 
 supposed to be the origin of the present, a few miles 
 from the small harbour of Burgh-Head, where the Nor- 
 wegians kept their shipping. A castle seems to have 
 been erected at an early period, either for the defence of 
 the town, or as a residence for its founder ; and on some 
 rising ground called Lady hill are still to be seen traces 
 of an ancient fortress which, in the reigns of William the 
 Lion, Alexander I., and Alexander II., is said to have 
 been a favourite resort and an occasional residence of 
 those monarchs. There is a charter of William's yet 
 extant, in which the king grants to the Bishop of Moray 
 an annual payment out of the fee-farm rent of " his 
 burgh of Elgin"; and in 1224, Alexander II. sanctioned 
 the removal of the seat of the diocese to Elgin, where a 
 cathedral was erected, and also an episcopal palace. The 
 town thus became distinguished, and in ecclesiastical 
 affairs obtained a degree of importance inferior to the 
 cities of St. Andrew's and Glasgow alone. In 1269, 
 Alexander III. bestowed upon the inhabitants all the 
 liberties and privileges of a royal burgh ; and Robert I., 
 in his charter granting the earldom of Moray to Thomas 
 Ranulf, expressly stipulates that the burgesses of Elgin, 
 in holding under the earl, should retain all their accus- 
 tomed rights as fully as when they held them immedi- 
 ately under the charter of Alexander III. The town 
 appears to have suffered severely at various times, and 
 to have been frequently destroyed by fire. In 1390, the 
 Earl of Moray conferred upon the burgesses an exemp- 
 tion from certain sums paid to his castle, in consequence 
 of the various calamities to which they had been ex- 
 posed ; and his successor soon afterwards remitted to 
 them the customary dues on wool, cloth, and all other 
 merchandise exported from the harbour of Spey, in con- 
 sideration of the same or similar disasters. Archibald 
 Douglas, Earl of Moray, in 1451 bestowed a charter re- 
 citing and confirming that of Alexander III. ; and 
 Charles I., in 1633, ratified all previous grants by his 
 predecessors in favour of the burgh, of which the form 
 of government was finally settled by an act of the con- 
 vention of burghs in the year 1706. 
 
 The TOWN is pleasantly situated on the south bank of 
 the river Lossie, which forms the boundary of the parish 
 for some distance ; and is sheltered in the rear by a 
 richly-wooded and gently-sloping height, iu the form of 
 a crescent, protecting it from the severer winds. It is 
 irregularly built, but contains several good houses and 
 handsome villas of late erection ; the streets are paved, 
 and lighted with gas by a voluntary assessment, and a 
 contribution of £30 annually from the funds of the
 
 ELGI 
 
 E LGI 
 
 burgh. The inhabitants were until lately only supplied 
 with water from the river, and from wells sunk in dif- 
 ferent parts of the town ; but pipes are now laid for 
 supplying the town with water from a spring in the 
 hills, four miles distant to the south of Elgin. There is 
 an extensive circulating library, containing many well- 
 selected volumes of history and general literature ; and 
 a literary association, estabUshed in IS 18, is supported 
 bj' subscription, and has a well-assorted library of more 
 than 700 volumes, with a reading-room lately added to 
 it, supplied with newspapers and periodical works. The 
 Morayshire Farmers' Club, established in 1*99, holds 
 its annual meetings here for the encouragement of hus- 
 bandry, and, by the distribution of prizes to all success- 
 ful competitors within the surrounding district, has 
 greatly tended to the interest and improvement of this 
 part of the country : an extensive and valuable library 
 has been formed by the club, which contains a numerous 
 collection of standard works on agriculture. There are 
 no manufactures pursued to any extent ; the traffic is 
 principally in grain, which is sent to different markets, 
 and, among others, to Leith, Liverpool, and London. 
 A very extensive trade in flour is carried on with Aber- 
 deen, and other towns in that county and the county of 
 Banff. In the town are a tannery and breweries, and 
 near it two distilleries ; the shops are well supplied, and 
 there are various handicraft trades. 
 
 A considerable degree of foreign trade appears to have 
 been once carried on, and in 1698 a harbour was con- 
 structed at the mouth of the river Lossie, in the parish 
 of Drainie, about five miles from Elgin, by the town 
 council, who received the anchorage and shore dues. 
 These dues, however, were by no means adequate to 
 keep the harbour in an efficient state of repair, and until 
 the recent construction of Stotfield harbour the retail 
 dealers in the town consequently obtained their prin- 
 cipal London goods by smacks trading to Inverness, 
 which sometimes landed them at Burgh-Head ; articles 
 of hghter weight were generally brought by steam-boats 
 to Aberdeen, and forwarded thence by land-carriage. 
 A joint-stock company was at length formed for con- 
 structing a harbour at Stotfield point, at a very incon- 
 siderable distance from Lossiemouth ; and this impor- 
 tant work has opened a direct communication with the 
 London and other markets for agricultural produce at 
 less expense, and to a much greater extent, than was 
 formerly practicable. Considerable quantities of grain 
 are still shipped, and coal is landed, at the harbour of 
 Lossiemouth, where there is a small village for the resi- 
 dence of persons connected with that port ; but from 
 the want of sufficient depth of water, only vessels of 
 very small burthen can enter. The rent obtained for 
 the old harbour was only £S0, whilst that of the new 
 harbour is £1023 yearly. Elgin market, which is on 
 Tuesday and Friday, is abundantly supplied with grain, 
 poultry, butter, and provisions of all kinds. Fairs are 
 held in the town on the Fridays preceding Martinmas 
 and Whitsuntide, for the hiring of farm-servants and the 
 sale of various wares ; and ten fairs are annually held 
 in the vicinity for cattle and horses. Facility of com- 
 munication is afforded by excellent turnpike-roads 
 branching off from the town in every direction ; the 
 great north road passes through it. In 1846 an act was 
 obtained for the construction of a railway from Stotfield 
 and Lossiemouth to Elgin, Rothes, and Craigellachie. 
 414 
 
 The BURGH, under its charter, was governed by a pro- 
 vost, four bailies, a treasurer, dean of guild, and ten 
 others, who formed the town council ; but since the 
 passing of the Municipal act, the control has been vested 
 in seventeen councillors, together with a provost, town- 
 clerk, and other officers, elected under the authority, 
 and subject to the regulations, of that act. There are 
 six incorporated guilds, the shoemakers, tailors, ham- 
 mermen, glovers, Wrights, and weavers, all of which, 
 except the weavers, claim the privilege of exclusively 
 carrying on their trades within the burgh. The freedom 
 is obtained by birth, by servitude to a freeman of the 
 incorporated guilds, or by purchase for the sum of £16, 
 which has been fixed by the town council for all indis- 
 criminately, though previously the payment varied ac- 
 cording to the practice of the different guilds. The 
 magistrates exercise both civil and criminal jurisdiction 
 within the limits of the burgh, and over all lauds held 
 under burgage tenure ; but since the establishment of 
 the sheriff's court few civil actions have been tried ; and 
 in their criminal jurisdiction the magistrates confine 
 themselves to the adjudication of petty offences. Elgin 
 is the head of an elective district, and, with the burghs 
 of Cullen, Banff, Peterhead, Kintore, and Inverury, re- 
 turns one member to the imperial parliament. The 
 right of election is vested by the Reform act in the resi- 
 dent £10 householders. The number of voters within 
 the municipal boundaries is 213, of whom ninety-five 
 are burgesses ; and of similar residents beyond the mu- 
 nicipal, but within the parliamentary limits, fifty, of 
 whom six are burgesses. Of £5 householders within 
 the burgh the number is 110, of whom forty are bur- 
 gesses. The election of the member takes place here, 
 and the assizes and sessions for the county are also 
 held in the town. The old county hall and gaol, both 
 indifferent buildings, have been superseded by a new and 
 elegant edifice. 
 
 The PARISH, which is of very irregular form, com- 
 prises an area of 11,500 acres; about 7000 acres are 
 arable, 1500 woodland and plantations, and the remainder 
 rough pasture and waste. The surface is varied : from 
 the town it has a gentle acclivity towards the base of 
 the Blaekhills ; and to the west of the river Lossie it is 
 divided, by a precipitous ridge of considerable elevation, 
 into the vales of Pluscardine and Mosstowie. In general 
 the scenery is of a pleasing character, and in many parts 
 beautifully picturesque and romantic. The river Lossie, 
 which rises in the hills of Dallas, winds through the pa- 
 rish with a silent course, and skirts it on the north, fre- 
 quently overflowing, and doing considerable damage to 
 the adjoining fields : it falls into the Moray Firth at the 
 village of Lossiemouth. There is a variety of soil : most 
 of the arable land is of a light and sandy quality ^ in 
 some parts inclining to clay ; and in others, especially 
 near the river, a deep rich loam. The crops are wheat, 
 oats, barley of the Chevalier kind, which, from its adap- 
 tation to the soil, is raised in great quantities, potatoes, 
 and turnips. The system of agriculture is improved : 
 lime and bone-dust are extensively used ; the lands are 
 well drained and inclosed; the farm-houses and offices 
 are substantial and commodious, and those of the larger 
 farms are built of stone, and roofed with slate. Thresh- 
 ing-mills have been erected, several of which are driven 
 by water ; there are numerous mills for grain, a mill for 
 carding wool, and one for sawing timber. Great atten- 
 
 «l
 
 ELGI 
 
 ELGI 
 
 tion is paid to the breeds of cattle and horses ; the pre- 
 vailing breed of cattle is a black kind resembling the 
 Aberdeenshire, but inferior in size, with an occasional 
 cross of the short-horned : very few sheep are reared. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £15,592. The plantations consist of Scotch and spruce 
 firs, and larch, intermixed with every variety of forest- 
 trees ; they are under careful management, and in a 
 very flourishing state. The principal substratum is 
 sandstone, of which the ridge separating the valleys of 
 Pluscardine and Mosstowie is chiefly composed. Lime- 
 stone, also, is found near the town, of a dark colour, in 
 some parts alternated with sand and clay ; it is quarried 
 for building and other purposes, and burnt into lime for 
 agricultural use, and for making mortar for buildings. 
 Westerton, the seat of Lieut.-Col. Alexander Hay, is a 
 handsome modern mansion beautifully situated in the 
 romantic vale of Pluscardine, commanding a view of the 
 ruins of the abbey and the richly-wooded grounds of the 
 Earl of Fife. 
 
 Elgin is the seat of a presbytery, in the synod of 
 Moray ; patron, the Crown. There are two ministers, 
 each of whom has a stipend of £241 : one minister has 
 a manse, but the other has neither manse nor allowance 
 in lieu ; the glebe is equally divided. A home mission 
 for the remoter parts of the parish has been maintained 
 for more than a century, from the funds of the Royal 
 Bounty and the interest of some legacies bequeathed for 
 the purpose, and the minister dispenses the ordinances 
 of rehgion to more than 600 persons. The parish church, 
 situated in the centre of the town, was erected on the 
 site of the old church of St. Giles, which had become 
 dilapidated. It is an elegant structure of freestone, 
 in the Grecian style of architecture, with a noble portico 
 at the west end of six columns of the Doric order, 
 having an entablature and cornice surmounted with 
 a triangular pediment. At the east end rises a square 
 tower supporting a circular campanile turret, sur- 
 rounded with columns. The interior of the edifice is 
 well arranged, and adapted for a congregation of 1800 
 persons. This church was completed at an expense of 
 £8300, and was opened for divine service in October 1828. 
 There are places of worship for members of the United 
 Presbyterian Church, members of the Free Church, Ori- 
 ginal Seceders, Baptists, and Independents, an episcopal, 
 and a Roman Catholic chapel. The Elgin academy, partly 
 supported by endowment, and partly from the common 
 funds of the burgh, comprises three schools, each under 
 the direction of a master ; the classical master has a 
 salary of £50 per annum, and the mathematical and 
 English masters a salary of £45 each. The late James 
 McAndrew, Esq., of Elgin, bequeathed £200, the inte- 
 rest to be distributed in prizes to three boys in the clas- 
 sical school. An institution for the support of old age 
 and the instruction of young persons, established and 
 endowed by Lieut.-Gen. Andrew Anderson, E.I.C.S., 
 aflFords accommodation for ten aged and infirm persons, 
 and for sixty cluldren who are maintained and educated 
 in a school of industry ; and connected with the build- 
 ing is a free school for 230 children, with apartments 
 for a master and mistress, who have a joint salary of 
 £75 per annum. The teacher of the school of industry 
 has a salary of £55, with lodging and maintenance. 
 The buildings of the institution occupy a spacious qua- 
 drangular area, and are handsomely erected of freestone. 
 415 
 
 In the central range is a Doric portico supporting an 
 entablature and pediment, on which latter are three 
 sculptured figures representing the founder and the 
 objects of the institution, the whole surmounted by a 
 circular cupola and dome ; and the wings are embel- 
 lished with porticos of the same order. The interior 
 is well adapted to the purposes of the establishment, 
 and contains a neat chapel, schoolrooms, with refec- 
 tories and dormitories for the children, and apartments 
 for the aged persons. The gardens are well laid out, and 
 the whole is inclosed with a stone wall and iron pali- 
 sade. The expense of the buildings, which were com- 
 pleted in 1833, was about £12,000. An infants' school 
 is supported by subscription, the master of which has 
 a salary of £25 per annum, with a house and the school 
 fees; and there is a trades' school, with an endow- 
 ment of £5 per annum from the common fund of the 
 burgh. 
 
 The poor have the interest of lands and money vested 
 in the corporation, amounting to £23. 7. 6., and of pro- 
 perty in the hands of the Kirk Session, amounting to 
 £54. 15., per annum. James VI., by charter in 1620, 
 granted to the provost, bailies, and commimity of the 
 burgh, the site and revenues of the hospital of Maison 
 Dieu, under which grant an almshouse was erected for 
 four bedesmen, who receive annually four bolls of 
 barley, paid out of the rents of the hospital lands. Four 
 bedesmen are also supported by the proceeds of money 
 and land bequeathed by William Cumming of Auchray 
 in 1693, and producing annually £71. 18., which sum is 
 equally divided among them. Mr. Duff of Braco, in I729, 
 left lands for the support of a decayed burgess, which 
 yield £23 per annum, paid to persons nominated by the 
 Earl of Fife. A bequest by Mr. Petrie, in 1777, for the 
 education of six poor orphans or children of the town of 
 Elgin, is in the hands of the Kirk Session ; and from the 
 proceeds each of the children receives £4 per annum 
 for three years. The Guildry charitable fund was esta- 
 blished in 1814, by the guild brethren, for the relief of 
 the widows and children of decayed members ; and by 
 good management, the funds have accumulated suffi- 
 ciently to enable them to divide £250 annually among 
 the objects of the institution. Grey's Hospital for the 
 sick poor of the town and county was founded in 1819, 
 by Dr. Alexander Grey, of Calcutta, who endowed it 
 with funds for its maintenance ; and Dr. Dougal be- 
 queathed £15 per annum for the purchase of medicines 
 for the poor, which was given to the trustees of the 
 hospital. The number of patients admitted annually 
 is about 250, and the number in the house at one time 
 about twenty-five ; and since the addition of Dr. Dou- 
 gal's bequest, medicines and advice have been gratui- 
 tously dispensed to 300 out-patients every year. The 
 building is in the Grecian style of architecture, with a 
 handsome portico of four Doric columns, supporting an 
 entablature and cornice ; a stately dome rises from the 
 centre of the edifice, and the interior is well arranged. 
 On the grounds belonging to it, and nearly adjoining, 
 a county lunatic asylum for paupers has been built. 
 Dr. Grey likewise bequeathed £2000 (which, on the 
 decease of his widow, will be augmented with an addi- 
 tional sum of £1000) for the assistance of unmarried 
 daughters of respectable but decayed burgesses ; the in- 
 terest of this sum is divided among them by the minis- 
 ters and physicians of the parish, who are permanent
 
 ELGI 
 
 E LGI 
 
 trustees. A portion of land was bequeathed by Mr. 
 Laing for the assistance of a decayed merchant and 
 guild brother ; it produces £5. 10. per annum, which 
 are paid to the nominee of the nearest surviving relative 
 of the testator. The six incorporated trades distribute 
 considerable sums among their poor members and 
 ■widows and children ; and a savings' bank was esta- 
 blished in 1 SI 5, in which the amount of deposits is above 
 £■23,000. 
 
 There are some beautiful remains of the ancient 
 CATHEDRAL. The Structure was founded by Andrew, 
 Bishop of Moray, in I'i'^i, and was subsequently burnt 
 by Alexander Stewart, generally called the Wolf of 
 Badenoch, whom one of the bishop's successors had 
 excommunicated for the unjust seizure and detention of 
 his lands. It was, however, by degrees restored, and 
 continued in all its original magnificence till the year 
 156s, when the Regent Morton directed the lead to be 
 stripped off its roof, in order to pay his troops. From 
 its exposure to the weather, it now began to decay : the 
 magnificent rood-loft, still retaining its pristine beauty, 
 was demolished in 1640, and the spoils were used in 
 the erection of a gallery in a neighbouring parish church ; 
 the wood-work of the great tower in time perished, and 
 the foundation sinking, it fell in 1711. When entire 
 the cathedral had five towers, two at the west end, two 
 at the east, and one stately tower rising from the centre ; 
 it was a splendid cruciform structure in the decorated 
 style of EngUsh architecture, '264 feet in length and of 
 proportionate breadth, and the central tower was IQS 
 feet high. The remains consist partly of the walls and 
 turrets of the choir ; and the western towers, with the 
 grand western entrance, are yet tolerably entire ; but 
 only a few fragments of the walls of the nave and 
 transepts are standing. The chapter-house, an octan- 
 gular building nearly forty feet in diameter, with a 
 richly-groined roof supported on one central column, is 
 still in good preservation. Of the college, which was an 
 appendage of the cathedral, only the eastern gateway, 
 with part of the wall that inclosed it, is now remaining ; 
 the episcopal palace and conventual buildings have all 
 disappeared, and though enough is left to afford an idea 
 of the style of this once stately structure, the ruins con- 
 vey but a very imperfect memorial of its ancient grandeur 
 and magnificence. By the laudable exertions of the 
 barons of the exchequer of Scotland, and the commis- 
 sioners of woods and forests of England, much of the 
 accumulated rubbish has been removed, and many in- 
 teresting details that were long concealed have been 
 brought to light. There are still some ruins of the 
 church of a convent of GTeij Friars, founded here by 
 Alexander II. ; and the site of the hospital of Maison 
 Dieu may be traced in a field near the town. About six 
 miles to the west of Elgin are the ruins of the abbey of 
 Pluscardine, situated in the valley of that name. A con- 
 siderable portion of the stone wall that inclosed it is yet 
 remaining ; and the dormitory, which has been roofed 
 and restored in the original style, is fitted up as a place 
 of worship for the inhabitants of the district. The 
 remains are carefully preserved from further decay by 
 the proprietor, the Earl of Fife ; and the plantations 
 which his lordship has formed in the immediate vici- 
 nity add greatly to the beauty of their appearance. 
 On Lady hill is a monument erected by subscription to 
 the memory of George, last Duke of Gordon, who died 
 416 
 
 in 1S36. Elgin gives the title of Earl to the family of 
 Bruce. 
 
 ELGINSHIRE, or Morayshire, a county in the 
 north-east of Scotland, bounded on the north by the 
 Moray Firth, on the east and south-east by Banffshire, 
 on the south by a detached portion of the county of 
 Inverness, and on the west by Nairnshire. It lies 
 between 57° 11' and 57° 43' (N. Lat.) and 3° o' and 3° 
 oS' (W. Long.), and is about 40 miles in length, and 23 
 miles in extreme breadth ; comprising an area of 840 
 square miles, or 537,600 acres ; S526 houses, of which 
 8154 are inhabited ; and containing a population of 
 35,012, of whom 16,090 are males and 18,9'22 females. 
 This county constituted a portion of the ancient pro- 
 vince of Moray , which contained the shires of Nairn 
 and Elgin, w-ith a large part of the county of Banff, and 
 which was for many ages distinguished as the "granary 
 of Scotland ". At a very early period Moray had an 
 establishment of Culdees, and it subsequently became 
 the seat of various religious societies, that emigrated 
 from Italy, and settled here about the commencement 
 of the tenth century. In the year 1100 it was made a 
 diocese, and in 1150 an abbey for Cistercian monks 
 was founded at Kinloss by David I. The priories of 
 Urquhart, Pluscardine, and Kingussie were soon after- 
 wards established ; and in the year 1224 Andrew, Bishop 
 of Moray, erected a cathedral for his diocese at Elgin, the 
 remains of which form one of the most interesting 
 ecclesiastical relics in the country. During later times 
 the county has been included in the synod of Moray ; 
 it comprises parts of several presbyteries, and consists 
 of about twenty parishes. For civil purposes it is joined 
 with the shire of Nairn, under the jurisdiction of one 
 sheriff, who appoints a sheriff-substitute for each. It 
 contains the royal burghs of Elgin and Forres, the former 
 of which is the county town ; the towns of Garmouth 
 and Lossiemouth, and a few villages. Under the act of 
 the 2nd of William IV., the two counties return one 
 member to the imperial parliament. 
 
 The SURFACE of Morayshire, which rises gradually 
 from the shores of the Firth towards the Grampian 
 range, is beautifully diversified with parallel ranges of 
 hills of moderate elevation, intersecting the county from 
 east to west, and between which are fertile valleys of 
 pleasing appearance. The chief rivers are the Spey, 
 the Lossie, and the Fiudhoru, the first of which enters 
 the county from that of Inverness at Aviemore, and 
 pursuing a north-eastern course, and receiving the waters 
 of the Dulnan and the Avon, falls into the Moray Firth at 
 Garmouth. It is scarcely navigable, from the extreme 
 rapidity of its current, except for the floating of timber 
 from the forests of Strathspey ; but abounds with 
 salmon, the fisheries of which produce a rental of £7000 
 per annum. The Lossie has its source in a loch of that 
 name, within the county, and, taking a direction nearly 
 parallel with the Spey, flows by the town of Elgin into 
 the Firth at Lossiemouth. The river Findhorn rises in 
 the county of Inverness, and soon after entering the 
 county receives the streams of the Dorbac and the Divie, 
 and runs northward into Findhorn bay in the Moray 
 Firth. In Elginshire the chief lakes are, Lochnaboe, 
 covering about sixty acres, and surrounded with a forest 
 of ancient firs ; Inchstellie, of very small dimensions ; 
 Loch Spynie, which has been almost wholly drained ; 
 and Lochindorb, on the boundary between Elgin and
 
 EL I E 
 
 ELI E 
 
 the detached portion of the county of Inverness. Of 
 these the last is four miles in length, and about one mile 
 broad : on an island within its limits are some remains 
 of a castle, which was occupied for a time by Edward I. 
 of England. 
 
 About one-fifth of the land is arable and in cultiva- 
 tion, and of the remainder less than one-half is in 
 pasture, woodlands, and plantations. The soil in the 
 lower districts is sand, alternated with clay and loam, 
 which last is the most predominant ; the system of 
 agriculture, though inferior to that of some other coun- 
 ties, is still greatly improved, and the farm-buildings 
 and offices are generally substantial and commodious. 
 Considerable attention is paid to the rearing of live 
 stock : the cattle are mostly a mixture of the Shetland 
 and Lancashire breeds, and the sheep of the black-faced 
 breed ; the horses are the Clydesdale and the Lanark, 
 with a few of the Suffolk and the Yorkshire. The 
 natural wood with which the county formerly abounded 
 has been greatly diminished, and only some remains of 
 it are found on the banks of the rivers : plantations have 
 been formed of late years. The minerals are not very 
 important. Iron-ore was wrought, but the works have 
 long been discontinued ; and there are indications of 
 lead-ore and coal. Limestone is found in several parts 
 near the coast, and there are quarries of excellent free- 
 stone ; slate is also wrought in some places. In this 
 county the principal seats are Innes House, Duffus 
 House, Darnaway Castle, Brodie House, the Grange, 
 Burgie Castle, Ortown House, and Elchies House. 
 The chief manufactures are the woollen and cotton, the 
 former of which has been long established ; there are 
 likewise some bleaching-grounds, and the spinning of 
 flax affords employment to a considerable number of 
 persons. There are some tanneries, and also distilleries 
 on an extensive scale, the latter paying collectively duties 
 to government amounting to £50,000 a year. The 
 annual value of real property in Elginshire is £98,115, 
 of which £84,082 are returned for lands, £7350 for 
 houses, £5439 for fisheries, and the remainder for other 
 kinds of real property. In the county are numerous 
 remains of antiquity, of which the chief are the ruins of 
 Elgin cathedral, the episcopal palace at Spynie, the 
 priory of Pluscardine, and the castles of Lochindorb, 
 Dunphail, and Relugas : there are also many memorials 
 of the frequent battles that occurred between the in- 
 habitants and the Danes, by whose incursions this part 
 of the country was much infested. 
 
 ELIE, a parish, and a burgh of barony, in the district 
 of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 3 miles (S. S. E.) 
 from Colinsburgh ; containing 90/ inhabitants, of whom 
 829 are in the village. This place is supposed to have 
 derived its name from the marshy nature of the soil 
 previously to the modern improvements in agriculture, 
 and a portion of land bordering on the loch of Kilcon- 
 quhar still retains that character. The manor has been 
 for many generations in the family of Anstruther, of 
 whom the first baronet. Sir William Anstruther, repre- 
 sented the county of Fife from the year 1681 to 1709, 
 and was made a lord of session in the reign of Queen 
 Anne : he strenuously exerted himself for the establish- 
 ment and maintenance of the Protestant religion. A 
 small harbour on the coast here seems to have been 
 formerly very much resorted to as a place of safety, in 
 stress of weather, by ships navigating the Firth of 
 Vol. I.— 417 
 
 Forth, as, if they missed this haven, there was no other 
 till they were driven on the coast of Norway. It was 
 easy of access, and perfectly secure ; and in a petition 
 presented to the privy council for its repair, it is stated 
 that it had afforded protection to more than 300 troops 
 that must otherwise have perished in a storm. Elie 
 harbour is now in a very ruinous and dilapidated con- 
 dition, but, from a survey lately made, it appears that it 
 might be completely repaired, and rendered one of the 
 best harbours on the coast of Fife. 
 
 The parish of Elie, separated from that of Kilconquhar 
 about the year 1639, is two miles in length from east to 
 west, and one mile in breadth, and is iDounded on the 
 south by the sea. It comprises 1570 acres, of which 
 1464 are arable, fifty woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder pasture and waste. The surface is generally 
 flat, and the sands along the shore are peculiarly con- 
 venient for bathing. A small rivulet, issuing from the 
 lock of Kilconquhar, traverses the parish, and falls into 
 the harbour ; but there is no river. The soil is mostly 
 dry and sandy, and the crops are wheat, barley, oats, and 
 beans, with potatoes and turnips : the system of agricul- 
 ture is in a highly improved state ; the farm-buildings are 
 substantial and commodious, and the lands are chiefly 
 inclosed with fences of thorn, to which considerable at- 
 tention is now paid. The plantations consist of beech 
 and Scotch fir. The substratum is principally whin- 
 stone, limestone, sandstone, shale, and clay, interspersed 
 with ironstone ; the limestone is of inferior quality, and 
 not quarried to any extent. Coal is thought to abound 
 in this parish, which forms a section of the great inde- 
 pendent coal formation ; but it is not worked at present, 
 though formerly several pits were open. The strata of 
 coal are traversed by several dykes of trapstone, one of 
 which, consisting of basalt, projects into the sea, and is 
 very compact. The shale in many places has impres- 
 sions of various plants, and stems and branches of trees 
 are found embedded in the sandstone. Sauchur Point, 
 a bold headland, consists of basalt, greenstone, clink- 
 stone, and trap tuffa, and abounds with a beautiful red 
 gem called the Elie ruby, which is of a brilliant colour, 
 varying in size from a garden-pea downwards, and is 
 found only on this part of the coast. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £3661. 
 
 Elie House, the property of Sir W. C. Anstruther, is 
 a noble ancient mansion, situated in grounds which have 
 been tastefully disposed and richly ornamented ; but as 
 the proprietor is not resident here, it is not kept up, and 
 is rapidly falling into ddapidation. The village, which 
 is much resorted to during the summer months for sea- 
 bathing.iswell built, and has a remarkably neat and cheer- 
 ful aspect. A subscription library has been established, 
 which forms a tolerably extensive collection of interest- 
 ing volumes. The post is daily, and is a branch from the 
 office at Colinsburgh ; a packet sails weekly to Leith, and 
 the Aberdeen, Anstruther, Montrose, and Dundee steam- 
 vessels touch at this port twice or three times daily, 
 both going and returning. A small fishery is carried on 
 by a few of the inhabitants, for the supply of the vil- 
 lage. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 St. Andrew's, synod of Fife, and in the patronage of 
 Sir W. C. Anstruther ; the minister's stipend is £150, 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £50 per annum. 
 Elie church, which was substantially repaired in 1831, 
 is a neat and well-arranged edifice, adapted for a con- 
 
 3 H
 
 E LLO 
 
 ELLO 
 
 gregation of 600 persons, and situated in the centre of 
 the village. The parochial school affords a good educa- 
 tion ; the master has a salary of about £40, and his fees 
 and other emoluments may amount to about £60 more, 
 besides a house with a small garden, for the deficiency 
 of which he has an allowance of £'2 per annum. There 
 are rents of land and other revenues, vested in the mi- 
 nister and elders for the use of the poor, amounting to 
 £78. 10. per annum. A friendly society called the Sea 
 Box, consisting of masters of vessels and seamen, asso- 
 ciated for their mutual benefit, obtained from George III. 
 a charter of incorporation ; the funds, which are ample, 
 are derived from land, houses, and other property, and 
 as the demands are comparatively small, the society is 
 rapidly increasing its capital. 
 
 ELLENABAICH, a village, in the parish of Kil- 
 BRANDON and KiLCHATTAN, district of Lorn, county of 
 Argyll; containing 311 inhabitants. This is a small 
 place, situated in the Kilbrandon portion of the parish. 
 
 ELLENERTON, a village, in the parish of Kirrie- 
 muir, county of Forfar ; containing 108 inhabitants. 
 It is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in agriculture 
 and in the manufactures connected with the trade of the 
 town of Forfar. 
 
 ELLIM, county Berwick. — See Longformacus. 
 
 ELLON, a village and parish, in the district of El- 
 lon, county of Aberdeen, 16 miles (N. by E.) from 
 Aberdeen; containing '2941 inhabitants. The name of 
 this place is supposed to be derived from a Gaelic 
 term signifying an island, and to have been applied on 
 account of the situation of a small island in the river 
 Ythan, near the village, and contiguous to the ferry 
 formerly used on the principal line of road leading from 
 Aberdeen to the north-eastern district of the county. 
 The probability of this derivation is increased by the 
 circumstance of the word Elleann being inscribed on 
 some old communion cups presented to the Kirk Session 
 by the family of Forbes of Watertown. Ellon was 
 from a very remote period the seat of the jurisdiction of 
 the earldom of Buchan, and the court was held in the 
 open air, on an eminence rising from the bank of the 
 Ythan, and called originally the " Moot hill of Ellon", 
 but in later times the "Earl's hill". The lands formerly 
 belonged to the Cistercian abbey of Kinloss in Moray, 
 and in the thirteenth century Robert I. confirmed to 
 the abbot the possession of the church of Ellon. At one 
 period, also, this was a prebendal church of Aberdeen, 
 and the bishop of that see had considerable lands here. 
 The PARISH is mostly situated on the northern bank 
 of the river Ythan. It measures ten miles in its great- 
 est length, and seven miles in its greatest breadth, and 
 comprises nearly 20,000 acres, of which about 15,000 
 or 16,000 are arable and the remainder moor, with the 
 exception of 200 acres of plantations. Though there are 
 no remarkable eminences, the surface is agreeably di- 
 versified with rising grounds, on a clear day command- 
 ing prospects which comprehend the north-eastern range 
 of the Grampians, Benochie, the Foudland hills, the 
 summits of some of the Spey-side mountains, and an ex- 
 panse of the German Ocean reaching from the Girdleness 
 lighthouse on the south nearly to Rattray point on the 
 north. The valley of the Ythan, bisecting the parish 
 from east to west, is joined on the north by the small 
 valley of Ebrie, extending in that direction for several 
 miles, and on the south by that of Brony, which reaches 
 418 
 
 about the same distance towards the south-west. Rising 
 in the parish of Forgue, the river falls into the German 
 Ocean at the sands of Forvie ; it expands into a broad 
 shallow basin just before it joins the sea, and is navigable 
 for lighters to the meadow of Watertown, about a quar- 
 ter of a mile below the village, where there is a landing- 
 place. The salmon-fishing on the river was formerly 
 worth several hundreds of pounds per annum ; but since 
 the increase of stake-nets along the coast, it has been 
 almost annihilated. The burns of Ebrie and Brony, 
 tributaries of the Ythan, are well stocked with salmon- 
 trout, common burn-trout, and finnock, affording ex- 
 cellent sport ; and parties from Aberdeen frequently 
 visit the district in the summer months to enjoy the re- 
 creation of angling. 
 
 The SOIL is in part dry, resting on a gravelly bed ; 
 clay is found in some places, and there is a very con- 
 siderable extent of fertile diluvial earth. In the northern 
 portion, where the higher grounds are, the soil is mossy 
 and exceedingly poor, much mixed with white sand, en- 
 cumbered with loose stones above and worthless diluvial 
 deposits below, and totally incapable of profitable culti- 
 vation. The grain chiefly depended on is oats ; bear and 
 turnips form a considerable portion of the produce, es- 
 pecially the latter, and the crops are raised under the 
 rotation system. Most of the modern improvements 
 being understood, agriculture is on a respectable footing : 
 the chief impediment to more extensive advances is 
 the want of encouragement for the outlay of capital. 
 Threshing-mills are numerous, and the farm-houses and 
 offices are in general convenient and well built. Sheep- 
 farming is unknown : the cattle, formerly the Aberdeen- 
 shire horned and Angus polled breeds, have been latterly 
 much mixed with the Teeswater, which prevails to a 
 considerable extent. Great encouragement has been 
 afforded in the improvement of stock by the Formartine 
 Agricultural Association, of which the Earl of Aberdeen 
 is patron, and most of the farmers here members. The 
 rocks are all of the primitive formation, and comprise 
 granite, gneiss, quartz, &c. From the impervious nature 
 of the subsoil, and the proximity of a stormy sea-coast, 
 the parish is an unfavourable site for the growth of wood ; 
 and the trees, consisting chiefly of Scotch fir and larch, 
 are all of inferior size, with the exception of a few scat- 
 tered specimens in the neighbourhood of the village. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £9678. 
 The mansion-house of Arnage, seated in the valley of the 
 Ebrie, on the bank of the stream, is an ancient structure 
 commanding a pleasing view of the scenery in the imme- 
 diate locality. Turner Hall, about two miles north of 
 the village, embraces extensive prospects of the German 
 Ocean, the high grounds of Aberdeen, and several of the 
 mountains in the districts of the Don, the Dee, and the 
 Spey. There is a mansion-house on the estate of Esle- 
 moiii, surrounded by fifty or sixty acres of plantation, 
 ornamentally disposed ; and a fourth residence, named 
 Dudwick, a plain old house, occupies a cold marshy 
 situation in the upland district. Elton Castle, now de- 
 serted and almost ruinous, was erected principally about 
 the year 1780, by the late Earl of Aberdeen, who made 
 it his residence, and enriched the surrounding grounds 
 with a variety of plantations, which have since been to 
 a great extent cut down. 
 
 The village contains nearly 500 persons, and being 
 the principal market for a large district, and the resi-
 
 EN HA 
 
 ENZI 
 
 dence of several thriving traders, is the scene of consi- 
 derable traffic. There is a general post-oflice, and the 
 high road from Aberdeen to Peterhead and Fraserburgh 
 passes through : a turnpil<e-road leads to the port of 
 Newburgh, about five miles and a half distant, and there 
 are also good commutation roads. A market for grain 
 and black-cattle is held once a fortnight, which is well 
 attended, especially by the Aberdeen butchers, and by 
 dealers in grain, whose purchases are chiefly for expor- 
 tation at Newburgh : two annual fairs take place in the 
 village, and four in its immediate vicinity. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally the parish is the seat of the presbytery of Ellon, 
 in the synod of Aberdeen, and is in the patronage of the 
 Earl of Aberdeen : the minister's stipend is £219, with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £18 per annum. The 
 church, erected in 1777, is a plain commodious building, 
 accommodating 1200 persons : it is lighted at the even- 
 ing service with gas. There is an episcopal chapel, 
 containing between 300 and 400 sittings ; also places 
 of worship for members of the Free Church, Indepen- 
 dents, and the United Presbyterian Synod. Ellon paro- 
 chial school affords instruction in Latin, Greek, French, 
 and mathematics, in addition to the usual branches; the 
 master has a salary of £28, with a house, £25 fees, and 
 a portion of the Dick bequest. There is also a school 
 in the northern district, where instruction is given in 
 the ordinary branches ; the master here, also, has a por- 
 tion of the-Dick bequest, besides his salary and fees. A 
 savings' bank and three friendly societies are kept up. 
 
 ELLSRICKLE, or Elsridgehili,, a village, in the 
 parish of Walston, and Upper ward of the county of 
 Lanark, 1^ mile (S.) from Walston ; containing 211 
 inhabitants. It lies in the southern part of the parish, 
 on the road from Peebles to Lanark. Ellsrickle is a 
 pleasantly situated and picturesque village, whose scat- 
 tered cottages are sheltered by plantations, and trees of 
 larger growth ; and from the advantages it possesses, 
 and the liberality of the proprietor of the soil around it, 
 the place is likely to increase in its extent and attrac- 
 tions. A burn proceeding directly hence unites with 
 several others in the vale of Ellsrickle. Some of the 
 inhabitants are employed in hand-loom weaving for the 
 Glasgow manufacturers. There is a school, supported 
 partly by contributions from the heritors and partly by 
 the school fees. 
 
 ELPHINSTONE, a village, in the parish of Tra- 
 nent, county of Haddington, 2 miles (S. by W.) from 
 Tranent ; containing 236 inhabitants. This village lies 
 in the southern extremity of the parish, on the road 
 from Dalkeith, by Penston, to Haddington; and is chiefly 
 inhabited by colliers. The lands adjacent were formerly 
 embellished with woods, of which nearly the whole have 
 been cut down. The tower of Elphinstone is a square 
 massive pile of building, supposed to have been erected 
 in the early part of the fourteenth century, and in 1600 
 a dwelling-house was attached to it, which is still inha- 
 bited : the stately trees that surrounded it have been 
 removed. A school for the instruction of the children 
 of persons employed in the collieries is supported by 
 subscription. 
 
 ENGINE, NEW and OLD, hamlets, in the parish 
 of Newton, county of Edinburgh ; containing respec- 
 tively 51 and 49 inhabitants. 
 
 ENHALLOW, an island, in the parish of Rousay 
 and Eagleshay, county of Orkney ; containing 26 in- 
 419 
 
 habitants. It is a low and very small islet, somewhat 
 in the form of a heart, lying westward of the island 
 of Rousay, from which it is separated by a reef of rocks. 
 The Sound of Enhallow is on the south, between this 
 and the island of Pomona : it is narrow ; and as the 
 tide is rapid, its passage can only be attempted with a 
 fair wind and in moderate weather, it being otherwise 
 very dangerous. 
 
 ENSAY, an island, in the parish of Harris, county 
 of Inverness; containing 16 inhabitants. This island 
 lies in the Sound of Harris, and is about two miles in 
 length and a mile in breadth ; it has a good verdant soil, 
 and is well cultivated. 
 
 ENZIE, for a time a quoad sacra parish, formed of 
 part of the parishes of Bellie and Rathven, in the 
 county of Banff, 4 miles (N. E.) from Fochabers; con- 
 taining 2103 inhabitants. The district is about six miles 
 in length and from three to four in breadth, and is 
 bounded on the north by the Moray Firth, and on the 
 south by the Aldmore hills and Whiteash. In general 
 the surface presents a very pleasing aspect, considerably 
 heightened by the interspersion of wood ; and the views 
 embrace a large extent of the Firth, and of the opposite 
 coast of Ross-shire and Sutherland. The soil is various, 
 in some places rich and fertile, and in others hard and 
 thin ; and the crops, which are usually early, consist 
 chiefly of wheat, oats, and barley, the first being most 
 cultivated. The Duke of Richmond is the principal 
 proprietor. On the hill of Parrymont, in the Rathven 
 portion of the district, is a quarry, whence an abundance 
 of blue slate and stone-flags is obtained ; and at Golla- 
 chie are a woollen-cloth factory and a carding-mill. 
 White-fishing is prosecuted with advantage ; cod and 
 haddock are caught in considerable quantity, and the 
 former fish and ling are cured by the inhabitants, and 
 disposed of in the southern markets. There is a salmon- 
 fishing station at Port-Gordon, the chief village, belong- 
 ing to a company in the neighbourhood ; and here also 
 a pretty extensive trade is carried on in the exportation 
 of grain, and the importation of coal and salt. Eight or 
 ten vessels belong to the place, by which the commerce 
 in these articles is for the most part conducted ; and a 
 kind of temporary harbour affords them a safe anchorage. 
 The north coast-road from Banff to Fochabers, and the 
 road from Keith to Port-Gordon, intersect the district. 
 
 Ecclesiastically Enzie is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Fordyce, synod of Aberdeen, and the pa- 
 tronage is vested in the Committee for managing the 
 Royal Bounty : the stipend of the minister is £62, and 
 there is a glebe of eight acres, valued at about £1 per 
 acre, and for which the minister pays a ground rent of 
 two bolls of barley. The church is a small structure, 
 built in 1785, and enlarged by a gallery at the end in 
 1815, and by a side gallery in 1822, the whole containing 
 400 sittings : it is nearly equidistant from Rathven church 
 and the church of Bellie, about four miles from each. 
 The Roman Catholics have a place of worship near 
 Achinhalrig, a small hamlet ; where, and at Starryhaugh 
 and Curfurrach, are schools supported by the Society 
 for Propagating Christian Knowledge. At Port-Gordon 
 is a school maintained by the Duke of Richmond. The 
 late celebrated Dr. Alexander Geddes, a Roman Catholic 
 divine, translator of Horace's Satires, and of a portion 
 of the Bible, was a native of the district. Enzie confers 
 the title of Earl on the Marquess of Huntly. 
 
 3 H2
 
 E R RO 
 
 E R RO 
 
 ERISKAY, an island, in the parish of South Uist, 
 county of Inverness ; containing SO inhabitants. This 
 is a small isle of the Hebrides, on the south side of South 
 Uist, from which it is separated by a narrow and rocky 
 sound. It is noted as having been the first place upon 
 which the unfortunate Prince Charles Stuart landed, in 
 his wild enterprise to regain the throne of his ancestors 
 in 1745. The island affords some pasturage, and the 
 inhabitants are partly employed in fishing and in the 
 manufacture of kelp. On a detached and high rock, 
 at its southern end, are the ruins of an old square 
 tower. 
 
 ERROL, a parish, in the county of Perth ; including 
 the villages of Drums, Grange, Leetown, Mains of Errol, 
 and Westown ; and containing 2832 inhabitants, of whom 
 1147 are in the village of Errol, 10 miles (E.) from Perth, 
 and 12 (S. W. by W.) from Dundee. This place, the 
 name of which is descriptive of its situation as a conspi- 
 cuous landmark in the Firth of Tay, was, by charter of 
 William the Lion, constituted a barony, and granted to 
 the family of Hay, in the latter part of the twelfth cen- 
 tury. A descendant from the elder branch of that fa- 
 mily was created Earl of Errol in the time of James II., 
 and this title is still possessed by the Hays, though all 
 their estates here were sold in the reign of Charles I., 
 with the e.\ception of the property of Leys, in the eastern 
 portion of the parish, which, having been conveyed in 
 the thirteenth century by the proprietor to a younger 
 brother, is yet in the hands of his descendants. The 
 PARISH is about six miles in length, and of irregular 
 form, ranging from two miles and a half to three and a 
 half in breadth. It is bounded on the south by the 
 Firth, and comprises 8600 acres, of which nearly the 
 whole is rich arable land in high cultivation, with small 
 portions of pasture and woodland, chiefly around gentle- 
 men's seats. Though generally level, the surface is 
 broken by two lofty ridges of varying breadth, which 
 traverse the western portion of the parish in directions 
 nearly parallel, and by a smaller ridge almost in a simi- 
 lar direction, about half a mile distant from the former. 
 The whole of the coast, which extends for six miles, is 
 flat, and its elevation not more than twenty feet above 
 the level of the river, which is here more than two miles 
 in breadth. From the higher grounds are fine views of 
 diversified scenery, embracing the Lomond hills in the 
 county of Fife, the vale of Strathearn, the hill of Mon- 
 crieffe near the confluence of the Earn and the Tay, with 
 the summits of the western Highlands of the county of 
 Perth. The village of Errol, from the beauty of its situa- 
 tion on the slope of an eminence crowned with the rich 
 foUage of stately oaks, is a strikingly picturesque feature 
 in the general landscape as seen from the river at the 
 distance of less than half a mile ; and the scenery imme- 
 diately around it abounds with almost every variety. 
 Beneath the village is one of the largest plains in the 
 country, skirted on one side by the braes of the Carse 
 of Gowrie, an extended range of hills cultivated nearly 
 to the summit, and surmounted by the distant hills of 
 Dunsinnan ; and on the other side by the Firth, which, 
 from the majestic breadth of its waters, with numerous 
 vessels constantly passing, forms a fine contrast to the 
 rich luxuriance of the vale. In the north and north- 
 west parts of the parish are several pools, receiving the 
 streams which descend from the higher grounds, and 
 the water collected by the different drains that have been 
 420 
 
 formed for carrying off the surface water from the farms. 
 From these pools issue various streams, which find their 
 way into the Firth ; they are on an average from ten to 
 fifteen feet in width, and from two to three feet deep, 
 except after heavy and continued rains, when they acquire 
 a considerable additional depth. The only springs are 
 those that have been found by sinking wells. 
 
 The SOIL in the higher parts of the parish is generally 
 a black loam resting upon clay, and occasionally on 
 gravel ; it is of various depths, and more or less wet in 
 different places. On the lower lands the soil is mostly 
 clay, intermixed with sand, and, by long cultivation and 
 the plentiful use of manure, has been rendered extremely- 
 fertile. The system of agriculture is good, and the rota- 
 tion plan of husbandry adopted ; the crops are wheat, 
 barley, oats, turnips, and peas, all of which are abundant. 
 The farm-buildings have been much improved, and 
 draining has been carried on to a considerable extent. 
 Embankments have been also constructed for protecting 
 the low lands from the inundations of the Tay. The 
 principal of these was completed by Mr. Allen in 
 1836, when about 100 acres were reclaimed from the 
 river, now forming some of the richest land on his estate : 
 the embankment is forty feet wide at the base, two feet 
 on the summit, and is eleven feet high ; the lower por- 
 tion of the bank, to the height of four feet, consists of a 
 wall of dry stones, and the upper of earth and reeds in- 
 termixed with stones. A second embankment has been 
 more recently constructed under the direction of Captain 
 Allen, R.N., on a similar plan, to the east of Port-Allen, 
 and of greater extent than the former to the west of the 
 port i and in process of time, by continuing these em- 
 bankments, a very large portion of most valuable land 
 will be added to the farms contiguous to the river. With 
 a view to draining the lauds in the district, tile and brick 
 works have been erected on a very extensive scale, by 
 the Messrs. Adams of Glasgow, on Mr. Allen of Errol's 
 property, on the north side of the village. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £20,260. 
 
 There are some plantations on the banks of the Tay, 
 to resist the incursion of the tide, consisting chiefly of 
 hard-woods : in the grounds of the principal proprietors 
 the trees are chiefly larch ; in Errol Park is oak of 
 venerable growth, for which the soil is well adapted, and 
 in some of the poorer lands that are uncultivated Scotch 
 fir is predominant. The substrata in the parish are 
 chiefly limestone of inferior quality, which is used for 
 building, and sandstone, tolerably fine grained, but not 
 very compact ; and the minerals hitherto found are cal- 
 careous spar, quartz, and chalcedony. The sandstone is 
 wrought at Clashbennie, where an extensive quarry has 
 been opened, from which between 4000 and 5000 tons 
 are annually raised. In this quarry have been met with, 
 at different times, various fossils and organic remains 
 Impressions of small fish have been frequently discovered, 
 and in 1836 a portion of stratum was found, in which 
 was an entire impression of a fish nearly twenty-seven 
 inches and a half in length, and about thirteen inches 
 iu breadth, in form resembling a tortoise. The upper 
 portion of the stratum, containing the entire body of the 
 fish, was soon afterwards found, and purchased by the 
 Rev. Mr. Noble, of St. Madoes. Errol Park is an ancient 
 mansion finely situated ; the park contains some fine 
 specimens of stately timber, and the avenue to the house 
 is formed of lofty oaks of venerable growth. The grounds
 
 ERRO 
 
 ERSK 
 
 adjoining the residences of the other proprietors are also 
 well planted. 
 
 The village is irregularly built ; but its situation on an 
 acclivity, at a moderate distance from the river, gives it 
 a very pleasing aspect, and it is well inhabited. The 
 weaving of linen-cloth is carried on for the manufac- 
 turers of the town of Dundee, and affords employment 
 to several families ; a considerable number are also en- 
 gaged in spinning and winding yarn. A kind of soft 
 canvass, made from an inferior sort of hemp, is likewise 
 manufactured here, chiefly for bags and packages for 
 goods. The salmon and Sperling fishery is pursued to a 
 considerable extent, producing to the proprietors an 
 annual rental of about £300. The navigation here of 
 the Tay is almost confined to Port-Allen, where there is 
 a small but very commodious harbour ; and from the 
 progress which is still being made in the construction 
 of embankments, the channel will be considerably deep- 
 ened, and greater facilities of entrance afforded for the 
 shipping. The e.vports are grain, potatoes, and other 
 agricultural produce, and the chief imports are lime and 
 coal; about 5000 bolls of lime and 1000 tons of coal 
 are annually landed. A passage-boat plies daily between 
 this place and Newburgh, and on its return brings tim- 
 ber, iron, and other articles of commerce. The harbour 
 dues are paid to the proprietor ; the ferry is also in his 
 possession, and produces a rent of £200 per annum. 
 About a mile and a half from the village of Errol, at a 
 place called Flatfield, is a post-office, which has a branch 
 in the village. Fairs are held in July and October ; the 
 latter has been recently revived, and the July fair is nu- 
 merously attended, though little business is done except 
 in hiring farm-servants. The nearest market-town is 
 Perth, with which and other places in the neighbourhood 
 a facility of communication is maintained by good roads, 
 and by the Perth and Dundee railway. 
 
 Errol is for ecclesiastical purposes included in the 
 presbytery of Perth, synod of Perth and Stirling : the 
 minister's stipend is about £'2*0, with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £16 per annum ; patrons, the Allen fa- 
 mily. The church, pleasantly situated on a gentle ac- 
 clivity at the extremity of the village, is a handsome 
 cruciform structure in the later English style, with a 
 lofty square embattled tower crowned by pinnacles ; it 
 was erected in 183'2, at an expense of £6000, and is 
 adapted for a congregation of 1434 persons. There are 
 places of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod and 
 members of the Free Church. The parochial school 
 affords a useful education ; the salary of the master is 
 £34, with £3.5 fees, and a house and garden. In addi- 
 tion to a small subscription library in the village, there 
 is an extensive and valuable library connected with the 
 Sunday schools, containing about 400 volumes ; a friendly 
 society has been established, and a savings' bank opened. 
 At Clashbennie, and also at Inchmartin, is a solitary 
 upright stone, of large dimensions but rude form, appa- 
 rently raised as a memorial of some event. At Westown, 
 rather more than three miles from the village of Errol, 
 are the ruins of a small ancient church, which in old 
 documents is styled "the church of the Blessed Virgin, 
 of Inchmartin", and in which, till within the last half 
 century, the ministers of Errol used to preach every 
 alternate Sunday ; the building is most romantically 
 situated, and interments were not long since made in 
 the cemetery surrounding it. In the grounds of Murie 
 421 
 
 is a circular mound called the Law Knoll, about twenty 
 feet in height ; the diameter at the base is about forty 
 yards, and at the summit thirty feet. The acclivities are 
 planted with trees, and around the top is a low wall of 
 turf, on the outside of which is a broad walk ; the base is 
 inclosed in a triangular area formed by three walls of 
 turf. It is situated at one extremity of an avenue of 
 lofty oaks leading in a right line to a spot anciently 
 called Gallow Knoll, but now Gallow-flat; the mound is 
 supposed to be the spot where the law was once admi- 
 nistered, and Gallow-flat was the place of execution. 
 
 ERSKINE, a parish, in the Upper ward of the 
 county of Renfrew, 10 miles (N. N. W.) from Glasgow; 
 containing, with the village of Bishopton, 1407 inha- 
 bitants. This place, the name of which is of uncertain 
 origin, is of considerable antiquity : according to most 
 historians, the lands were conferred upon the founder 
 of the Erskine family by Malcolm II., in reward of his 
 valour at the battle of Murthill, in which he slew with 
 his own hand Enrique, one of the Danish generals, whose 
 head he presented to that sovereign after the victory. 
 The parish is beautifully situated on the river Clyde, and 
 extends along its south bank for nearly eight miles 
 and a half, increasing in breadth from the western ex- 
 tremity, where it is less than two miles, to the eastern 
 extremity, where it is more than three miles broad. It 
 is bounded on the east by the parish of Inchinnan, on 
 the south by that of Houston and Killallan, and on the 
 west by the parish of Kilmalcolm. Though level near 
 the shore, the surface rises rapidly towards the south ; 
 and the higher grounds command diversified prospects 
 over the Firth of Clyde and the opposite coast of Dum- 
 bartonshire, embracing the castle of Dumbarton ; to the 
 west of the parish appear Port-Glasgow and Greenock, 
 and in the east the park and pleasure-grounds of Erskine 
 House, the splendid seat of Lord Blantyre. The more 
 distant view of Dumbartonshire abounds with objects of 
 romantic beauty and interesting character; the vale of 
 Leven is visible, interspersed with elegant villas, and 
 further off are seen, in clear weather, the waters of Loch 
 Lomond, and the lofty mountain of Ben-Lomond. The 
 river Clyde, near Erskine House, retains its original 
 character, and its banks are conspicuous for picturesque 
 scenery. It is crossed by two ferries within the limits 
 of the parish. Erskine ferry, which communicates with 
 the village of Old Kilpatrick, is under good management, 
 and has an excellent inn, much frequented by parties of 
 pleasure from Glasgow. The Western ferry, about six 
 miles from the former, connects the parish with Dum- 
 barton. 
 
 The whole number of acres is 7109, of which 5 123 are 
 arable, 554 woodland and plantations, 800 meadow and 
 pasture, and the remainder moss and waste. The soil 
 is various, but in general light ; in the north-eastern 
 portion, a dark grey mould mixed with gravel ; and in 
 other places, clay alternated with sand. The crops are 
 oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips, with the usual 
 grasses ; the rotation system of husbandry is prevalent, 
 and much improvement in agriculture has been effected 
 under the auspices of Lord Blantyre. Tile-draining has 
 been extensively introduced, and works for the making 
 of tiles, for which clay of excellent quality is found, have 
 been established on their respective lands by Lord Blan- 
 tyre and Mr. Rodger. The farm-houses are generally 
 substantial and commodious, and most of the lands are
 
 ERSK 
 
 ESKD 
 
 inclosed either with fences of hawthorn, or with walls of 
 stone. The dairy-farms are well managed : the cows are 
 principally the Ayrshire, with some few of a mixed breed 
 between the Ayrshire and Guernsey ; the average num- 
 ber on the several farms is about 350, and 450 young 
 cows and black-cattle are pastured on the hills. Few 
 horses are kept except those for agricultural use. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £8182. The 
 plantations are chiefly larch, Scotch, spruce, and silver 
 firs ; and the prevailing woods, oak, elm, beech, ash, 
 walnut, horse-chesnut, and sycamore, of which there are 
 some remarkably fine trees. The substratum is partly 
 gravel, mixed with clay, and interspersed with large 
 boulders of greywacke and granite ; in the south-eastern 
 part of the parish, carboniferous rock ; and towards the 
 western extremity the hills are wholly of trap rock of 
 porphyritic quality, containing crystals of felspar, with 
 amygdaloids of calcareous spar. On the West ferry 
 hill, while cutting through it for the formation of the 
 Glasgow and Greenock railway, the workmen discovered 
 some fine basaltic columns. Zeolites have been found 
 in the trap rocks ; and in the Bishopton ridge is a 
 new mineral, called "Greenockite " in honour of Lord 
 Greenock, who discovered it, and which has, on analysis, 
 proved to be a protosulphate of cadmium. There are 
 two quarries of freestone on the lands of Lord Blantyre, 
 from which materials were taken for the erection of the 
 church, the mansion-house of Erskine, and other build- 
 ings ; there is a similar quarry on the lands of Mr. 
 Rodger, and in several parts of the parish whinstone is 
 wrought for the roads. 
 
 Erskine House, beautifully situated on a terrace over- 
 looking the Clyde, was erected by the late Lord Blantyre 
 from a design by Sir Robert Smirke, of London. It is 
 a fine structure in the Elizabethan style of architecture, 
 ornamented with richly-crocketed pinnacles, and form- 
 ing an imposing and highly interesting feature in the 
 scenery of the coast. The principal building is 185 feet 
 in length. The mansion contains upwards of seventy- 
 five rooms, of which seven are public rooms of large size 
 and beautiful proportions, including a picture-gallery 118 
 feet long. The internal decorations are costly and 
 magnificent. The demesne is richly wooded, and em- 
 bellished with flourishing plantations ; the pleasure- 
 grounds are tastefully laid out, and contain an obelisk 
 erected by the gentry of Renfrewshire as a tribute of 
 respect to the memory of the late Lord Blantyre, lord 
 lieutenant of the county, and major-general in the 
 British army, who was accidentally shot during the revo- 
 lution at Brussels in 1830. Drums is a mansion-house 
 in good repair, the residence of the Darroch family. 
 Dargavel, built in 1584, is an interesting castellated 
 mansion, in that style of French architecture introduced 
 into Scotland by Mary, Queen of Scots ; the lower story 
 is strongly vaulted, and in the flanking towers are loop- 
 holes for the discharge of musketry. Bishopton House 
 was once a favourite country residence belonging to the 
 Archbishop of Glasgow. 
 
 The population is agricultural ; but some of the females 
 are employed in spinning fine yarn for the manufacture 
 of thread, first introduced into Scotland by Miss Shaw 
 of Bargarran, who by repeated efforts succeeded in pro- 
 ducing an article of superior quality, which, being car- 
 ried by Lady Blantyre to Bath, was eagerly purchased 
 by the lace manufacturers of that neighbourhood, and 
 492 
 
 under the name of Bargarran thread, obtained a high 
 price. The making of this thread is carried on exten- 
 sively in Paisley, and affords employment to numbers of 
 the female population of the district. A post-ofiice has 
 been estabhshed at Bishopton, and facility of intercourse 
 with the neighbouring towns is afforded by the road and 
 railway from Glasgow to Greenock, which both pass 
 through the parish, and by good roads kept in repair by 
 statute labour : boats, also, from Glasgow to Greenock, 
 touch almost every hour at Erskine ferry. The railway 
 passes through Dargavel moss, where the operations 
 were long and formidably retarded by the soft and yield- 
 ing nature of the ground, which occasioned great diffi- 
 culty in procuring a solid bed for the rails. Having 
 crossed the moss, the line enters a deep cutting through 
 Baranguy hill : at the deepest portion of this cutting, 
 the railway is spanned by a handsome bridge of three 
 arches ; and on quitting the cutting, the line traverses 
 a heavy embankment, over a portion of the lands of 
 Rossland. Shortly after passing Rossland House, the 
 line enters a deep excavation through Bishopton hill. 
 This cutting, which extends upwards of a mile in length, 
 and includes a long tunnel, was one of the most difficult 
 undertakings connected with the enterprise, the whole 
 being cut through the whinstone ridge, or trap dyke, 
 which intersects the valley of the Clyde at this point, 
 and of which the rock of Dumbarton Castle forms per- 
 haps a projecting ramification. In its further progress, 
 the line proceeds by the Bishopton station, and ap- 
 proaches the shore of the Firth of Clyde, along which 
 it passes on an embankment of very considerable mag- 
 nitude. It then arrives at the West ferry station, and 
 continues its course in proximity to the Clyde, crossing 
 the lands of various proprietors, and, after traversing a 
 slight embankment, passing through a deep whinstone 
 cutting. Thus, its course through the parish comprises 
 some unusually difficult and important works. There 
 are fisheries on the Clyde, but they are quite unimport- 
 ant ; the few salmon that are taken here are generally 
 sent to Glasgow. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Greenock, synod of Glasgow and Ayr : 
 the minister's stipend is £279, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £9. 12. 9. per annum ; patron. Lord Blantyre. 
 Erskine church, having become ruinous, was taken down 
 in 1813, and a new church erected near its site, on ground 
 given by Lord Blantyre ; it is a neat structure in the 
 Elizabethan style of architecture, containing 500 sittings. 
 There is likewise a place of worship for members of the 
 Free Church. A parochial library, containing about 400 
 volumes, is supported by subscription. The parochial 
 school, for which a handsome and spacious building has 
 been erected, is well attended ; the master has a salary of 
 £30, with a house, and the fees average £30 per annum. 
 There is also a subscription school, lately rebuilt. 
 
 ESKDALEMUIR, a parish, in the county of Dum- 
 fries, 13 miles (N. W.) from Langholm ; containing 646 
 inhabitants. This parish, as its name partly imports, 
 consists of the lands lying at the head of Eskdale, which 
 were originally possessed by the clan of Beattieson, but 
 which passed into other hands under the following cir- 
 cumstances. Cardinal Beaton and Robert Lord Max- 
 well, according to tradition, were sent by James V. as 
 ambassadors to France, in the year 1537, to conclude a 
 marriage between that sovereign and Mary of Guise, 
 
 i
 
 ES KD 
 
 ETT R 
 
 when Lord Maxwell, by commission, as proxy for the 
 king, married the princess, and, having with the cardinal 
 conducted her to Scotland, received as a reward from 
 the crown the lands comprehended under the name of 
 the Five Kirks of Eskdale. Lord Maxwell at once 
 offered the occupiers a title to their several possessions 
 on certain specified conditions ; but, indignant at the 
 royal grant, they resolutely objected, and matters ran 
 into such severe altercation that he was obliged to flee 
 to save his life, and shortly afterwards he sold the estate 
 to Scott of Branxholm, ancestor of the ducal family of 
 Buccleuch, leaving him to obtain possession as well as 
 he could. Upon this, Scott, who was warden of the 
 middle marches between Scotland and England, having 
 raised numerous friends, proceeded to Eskdalemuir, and 
 expelled all the clan of Beattieson, except Roland Beattie 
 of Watcarrick, who had saved Lord Maxwell's life by 
 lending him a horse on which to escape from the mal- 
 contents, and to whom that nobleman had confirmed a 
 tenant-right in his property. Having thus cleared the 
 domain, Scott gave feu rights of the greater part of it to 
 his relations and dependents. 
 
 Eskdalemuir was originally a portion of the parish of 
 Westerkirk, but was erected in 1/03 into a separate 
 parish. It is the largest in the county, being about 
 twelve miles long from north to south, and eight miles 
 broad, and containing 42,250 acres. The surface is 
 strongly marked in the north by part of a chain of moun- 
 tains extending from the sources of the Clyde and the 
 Annan on the west to the source of the Tyne, in North- 
 umberland, in the east : the highest hills are Lochfell, 
 and Eskdale or Ettrick Pen. The White and the Black 
 Esk, so named from the sandy and mossy soils over 
 which they run, take their rise in this parish, and uniting 
 at its southern extremity, form that beautiful river which, 
 after receiving many tributary streams, loses itself in the 
 Solway at Longtown, in Cumberland. There are three 
 celebrated cascades called Goat-linn, Wellsburn Spout, 
 and the Garvald Linns. The soil is deep in many parts, 
 but is not fertile, on account of the elevated site of the 
 district]: the hills towards the south are green, but the 
 more retired parts are moss, covered with coarse grass 
 and different kinds of water-plants. The number of 
 acres cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, is 482, the 
 rest remaining constantly in pasture : there is very little 
 wood to be seen in any direction. This is chiefly a 
 grazing parish ; the sheep, with a few exceptions, are all 
 Cheviots, and the cattle are of the Galloway breed, with 
 some of the Ayrshire and the Dutch : both sheep and 
 cattle are usually taken to the Langholm and Lockerbie 
 markets. Many improvements have been effected by 
 the embankment of the rivers ; by mole-catching to a 
 surprising extent ; and by surface-draining, there being 
 now more than 400,000 roods of drains in the parish. 
 The ring fences around the inclosed lands of farms are 
 commonly of stone, the subdivisions of thorn, and 
 the march dykes between farms always of stone. In 
 this parish the strata consist of greywacke and other 
 transition rocks : the common fuel is peat, of which 
 there is an abundant supply. The parish roads extend 
 about twenty miles in total length : there is an old 
 bridge over each of the rivers, with a third built about 
 thirty-five years ago across the Black Esk, on the line of 
 the road to Lockerbie, Lochmaben, Dumfries, and Moffat ; 
 there are two new bridges over the White Esk, and one 
 423 
 
 over the Black Esk. The annual value of real property 
 in Eskdalemuir is £6766. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Langholm, synod of 
 Dumfries ; patron, the Duke of Buccleuch and Queens- 
 berry. The stipend is £221, with a good manse, and a 
 glebe of considerable extent, valued at £20 per annum. 
 Eskdalemuir church stands nearly in the centre of the 
 parish, on the bank of the White Esk : it was built in 
 1826, and is a commodious and elegant structure, con- 
 taining sittings for 393 persons. The Reformed Pres- 
 byterians have a place of worship. There is a parochial 
 school, in which Latin, Greek, and French are taught, 
 with the usual branches of education ; the master has a 
 salary of £34, with about £10 fees, and a house and 
 garden. A library consisting of about 500 volumes has 
 been lately instituted, and is in a prosperous state. The 
 chief relic of antiquity is the camp of Castle-0'er, or 
 Overbie, which is situated on the farm of Yetbyre, and 
 though of an oval form, has been generally considered as 
 of Roman origin, and to have communicated with the 
 camps of Middlebie and Netherbie : there is scarcely a 
 hill within sight of it on which some vestige does not 
 exist of an outer encampment. Another camp, however, 
 has more recently been discovered on the farm of Rae- 
 bnrnfoot, and it is supposed that the former is a Saxon 
 work, and the latter the true Roman camp of Overbie. 
 It exhibits all the lineaments, as far as they are visible, 
 of a most complete military station, with the praetorium 
 and every other mark of a Roman work. Were the lines 
 on the west side of the entrances extended as far as those 
 on the eastern side, so as to make it a square, it would 
 cover seven acres. There are two Druidical circles on 
 the farm of Coatt, measuring in circumference ninety 
 feet and 340 feet, respectively. The parish and adjoin- 
 ing district confer the title of Baron Scott and Eskdale 
 on the Duke of Buccleuch. 
 
 ESSIE, county of Aberdeen. — See Rhynie. 
 
 ESSIE, Forfarshire. — See Eassie. 
 
 ETTRICK, or Etterick, a parish, in the county of 
 Selkirk, 18| miles (S. W.) from Selkirk ; containing 
 525 inhabitants. The name, of uncertain origin, is sup- 
 posed by some to be in the Gaelic language descriptive 
 of the river on which Ettrick is situated. The parish is 
 about ten miles in length, and nearly of equal breadth in 
 the widest part, and comprises 43,96s acres, of which 
 217 are arable, 120 meadow, 270 in woods and planta- 
 tions, 150 water, and the remainder pasture. Its surface 
 is broken by numerous hills, some of which are of moun- 
 tainous height, and all covered with verdure from their 
 base to their summit, with the exception only of a few 
 whose brows and summits of heath add to the variety 
 and beauty of the landscape. Ettrick or Eskdale Pen, 
 the highest of these mountains, has an elevation of 2200, 
 Wardlaw of 1980, and Old Ettrick hill of ISOO feet above 
 the level of the sea. The chief river is the Ettrick, which 
 rises on the south side of a mountainous ridge, between 
 Loch-fell and Capel-fell, and in its progress through the 
 parish receives numerous streams descending from the 
 heights. It generally flows with an equable and tranquil 
 current, but when swollen by continued rains, it acquires 
 the impetuosity of a torrent, and, frequently bursting its 
 banks, inundates the adjacent lands. After leaving the 
 parish, it pursues a north-eastern direction, and falls 
 into the Tweed near Abbotsford. The Timah, a small
 
 ETTR 
 
 rivulet, has its source in the hills on the confines of the 
 parish of Eskdalerauir, and after a course of about six 
 miles through this parish, falls into the Ettrick near the 
 church. The Rankleburn, also a small rivulet, rises near 
 the source of the Timah, and joins the Ettrick not far 
 from the ruins of the castle of Tushielaw. These streams 
 abound with trout ; and in the Ettrick, salmon and sea- 
 trout are found in the ordinary seasons. 
 
 The SOIL is very various ; on the summits of the hills, 
 a deep moss ; on the slopes, a mossy gravel ; on the low 
 lands, a rich alluvial deposit, and in general fertile. The 
 crops are oats and barley, with potatoes and turnips : 
 the system of agriculture is improved ; the lands have 
 been drained and partially inclosed, and the farm-build- 
 ings are commodious and well built. The principal at- 
 tention, however, is paid to the rearing and pasture of 
 flocks of sheep ; the Cheviot breed of sheep has alto- 
 gether superseded the old black-faced kind, and the ave- 
 rage number at present pastured in the parish may be 
 taken at about 26,000. Recently, Highland Kyloe cattle 
 have been introduced on some of the farms ; they eat 
 the refuse of the pastures, and render them more fertile: 
 the milch-cows are all of the short-horned and Ayrshire 
 breeds. On the whole, about 400 head of black-cattle 
 are pastured. A due degree of attention to the improve- 
 ment of live stock has been e.xcited by the Pastoral So- 
 ciety, instituted in 1818, under the patronage of the late 
 William John, Lord Napier, and which holds one of its 
 yearly meetings here. The annual value of real property 
 in Ettrick is £7844. Though formerly part of an exten- 
 sive forest, there is very little old timber in the parish ; 
 the chief trees are the mountain and common ash, birch, 
 alder, willow, and thorn. The plantations, which are of 
 comparatively recent formation, consist of Scotch and 
 spruce firs and larch, intermixed with the various kinds 
 of forest-trees ; they are well managed, and in a flourish- 
 ing condition. The principal substrata are greywacke 
 and clayslate, of which the rocks are mostly formed. A 
 nodule of antimony was once found in the channel of a 
 burn, near the source of the Ettrick ; but after diligent 
 search, no further appearance of it could be ascertained. 
 Pyrites of iron has been also discovered occasionally ; 
 and near the loch of the Lowes, which borders on the 
 parish, is a black rock of glossy appearance, supposed 
 to consist of aluminous slate. 
 
 Thirlstane, the seat of Lord Napier, is a handsome 
 mansion of modern erection, situated in a romantic and 
 deeply-sequestered spot. Facility of communication is 
 afforded by excellent roads, which traverse the parish for 
 an extent of thirty miles, opening up an easy intercourse 
 between its most distant parts and with the neighbouring 
 towns. All of them were constructed, and brought to 
 their present state of perfection, under the persevering 
 efforts of the late Lord Napier, to whom the parish is 
 deeply indebted for its present improved condition, and 
 by whose liberality numerous pleasing and comfortable 
 cottages have been spread over a tract of land previously 
 Lttle better than a dreary desert. Fairs are held at the 
 end of March, for the sale of ewes and the hiring of farm- 
 servants and shepherds ; at the end of July, for lambs 
 and wool, and the transaction of general business ; at 
 the end of September, for draft ewes, young lambs, and 
 fat sheep ; and in November, for fat sheep for the mar- 
 kets. The September fair is the most numerously at- 
 tended : as many as 9000 head of stock have been 
 424 
 
 ETTR 
 
 exposed for sale at it. There is a small prison for the 
 temporary confinement of offenders, called the " Round 
 House", near the ground where the fairs are held. 
 
 Ettrick is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Selkirk, 
 synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and in the patronage of 
 Lord Napier; the minister's stipend is about £228, with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £28 per annum. The 
 church, situated nearly in the centre of the parish, was 
 rebuilt upon a larger scale in 1824 ; it is a neat and 
 handsome edifice, adapted for a congregation of about 
 450 persons. The parochial school affords a liberal course 
 of instruction ; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4. per 
 annum, with £15 fees, and a house and garden. A pa- 
 rochial library, now containing more than SOO volumes, 
 has been maintained by subscription and donations, to 
 which the Napier family have largely contributed ; and 
 a Bible and Missionary Society is also supported here, 
 under the patronage of Lord Napier. In the retired val- 
 ley of the Rankleburn, which is inclosed with lofty and 
 precipitous hills, are two farm-steads called the Buccteuchs, 
 that give the family of Scott their ducal title ; and in a 
 deep ravine leading from them to the Hawick road, is 
 the spot where the buck was killed, from which circum- 
 stance the name of these lands is said to have been de- 
 rived. About a mile from the farm, and on the bank of 
 the burn, may still be traced the foundations and part 
 of the walls of the church or chapel of Buccleuch. On 
 the road on the banks of the Ettrick are the ruins of 
 the ancient castle of Tushielaw, formerly the stronghold 
 of the Scott family, noted for their predatory excursions 
 in the neighbourhood, and of whom two individuals 
 were convicted in the reign of James V. of exacting 
 black mail, one being hanged on a tree near the gate 
 of his castle, and the other beheaded at Edinburgh, and 
 his head fixed on the Tolbooth. About two miles from 
 this spot are the remains of the ancient baronial castle 
 of Thirlstane, surrounded by some ash-trees of very an- 
 cient growth ; and on the opposite bank of the Ettrick 
 are the ruins of the castle of Gamescleuch, the residence 
 of a branch of the family of Scott of Thirlstane. On the 
 farm of Kirkhope may be traced the boundaries of a 
 cemetery formerly belonging to some church or chapel 
 of which there are no vestiges remaining ; and near the 
 farm of Chapelhope are the site and foundations of ano- 
 ther church or chapel, with a cemetery attached. An 
 ancient tripod and two stone hatchets were found some 
 years since, and are now in the possession of Lord Na- 
 pier. About a quarter of a mile from the church till 
 lately stood a house with a gable end, fronting the road, 
 in which James Hogg, the Ettrick Shephtrd, was born : 
 his remains rest in the churchyard. Alexander Cun- 
 ningham, minister to the state of Venice in the reign of 
 George L, and author of a History of Great Britain from 
 the Revolution in 1688 till the Accession of George I., 
 written in Latin, and long after his decease translated 
 into English, and published, in 178", by Dr. WiUiam 
 Thomson, was born here during the incumbency of his 
 father. Boston, author of the Fourfold State, was minis- 
 ter of Ettrick from 1707 to 1732. 
 
 ETTRICK-BRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Yar- 
 row, county of Selkirk, 7 miles (W. S. W.) from Sel- 
 kirk ; containing 108 inhabitants. It is situated in the 
 eastern part of the parish, on the Ettrick water, and is 
 chiefly inhabited by persons engaged in handicraft trades. 
 One of the parochial schools is in the village ; and the 
 
 1 

 
 E VI E 
 
 EWES 
 
 Duke of Buccleuch has lately erected and endowed a 
 chapel in connexion with the Established Church, for 
 the benefit of the people in this district of the parish. 
 
 EV ANTON, a village, in the parish of Kiltearn, 
 county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 462 inha- 
 bitants. This village had no existence forty years ago ; 
 it is built upon a waste piece of land, consists of about 
 a hundred houses, and is of very regular and neat ap- 
 pearance. Two fairs, neither of them well attended, 
 owing to the convenient supply of necessaries from the 
 shops in the village, are held on the first Tuesdays in 
 June and December. The United Presbyterian Synod 
 have a place of worship here ; and there is a school. 
 
 EVIE and KENDALL, a parish, in the county of 
 Orkney; containing, with the island of Gairsay, 1518 
 inhabitants, of whom 907 are in Evie, 18 miles (N. W. 
 by N.) from Kirkwall. These two ancient parishes, 
 which appear to have been united since the time of the 
 Reformation, are situated on the mainland of the Orkney 
 Isles, and are bounded on the north by the Atlantic 
 Ocean ; on the north-east and east by Enhallow Sound 
 or Firth, which separates them from the islands of 
 Rousay and Shapinshay ; on the south by the parish of 
 Firth ; and on the west by the parish of Birsay and 
 Harray. The coast is not distinguished by any of those 
 prominent features which are so conspicuous on the 
 shores of the other islands. Its chief headland is Costa, 
 at the northern extremity of Evie, a bold hill rising from 
 a wide base to a considerable elevation, and presenting 
 towards the sea a large mass of precipitous rock. On 
 the east, opposite to the deeply-indented bay of Wood- 
 wick, is the island of Gairsay, forming a part of Rendall, 
 from the main portion of which it is separated by a nar- 
 row sound. This island is of nearly circular form, and 
 about four miles in circumference ; the ground rises 
 from the shore, and terminates towards the centre in a 
 beautiful green hill, on the summit of which is a cairn. 
 
 The surface of the parish is diversified with hills form- 
 ing a continuous range, averaging from 300 to 400 feet 
 in elevation above the level of the sea, and dividing the 
 parish from Birsay and Harray; and with several smaller 
 hills, between which are some pleasing and fertile val- 
 leys. Towards the sea it has a gentle declivity, vary- 
 ing from half a mile to nearly a mile and a half in breadth. 
 On the boundary between Evie district and Birsay is a 
 beautiful lake, about two miles in length and half a mile 
 broad, in the centre of which is a small island ; it abounds 
 with trout of excellent quality, and though of no great 
 depth, is found very serviceable in propelling a corn-mill 
 during the summer, when other mills are useless from 
 want of water. The soil is partly a rich black loam, 
 and partly clay alternated with sand, and in Rendall is 
 of lighter quality than in Evie. There is a very consi- 
 derable deposit of marl on the shores of Woodwick bay, 
 and in the valleys that intersect the hills is an abun- 
 dance of peat-moss. Peat bogs occur in the lower lands, 
 and in Rendall is a valley of peat-moss, which is almost 
 impracticable from the number of roots and branches of 
 trees embedded in the soil. There is no timber of any 
 kind, and the only trees are some recently planted in the 
 rnause garden, the permanent growth of which seems 
 very doubtful. The land in cultivation yields favourable 
 crops, and the pastures are fertile ; the natural grasses 
 are thickly interspersed with wild flowers of every de- 
 scription : the cattle and sheep reared in the parish thrive 
 Vol. I.— 42.T 
 
 well. The rocks are all of the secondary formation, and 
 vary from blue slate to white sandstone. There is no 
 village. Fairs for cattle and horses are held in June and 
 October. Cod, ling, haddock, dog-fish, skate, halibut, 
 and the young of coal-fish are found in abundance off 
 the coast, and many of the inhabitants occasionally en- 
 gage in the herring-fisheries ; but though the place is ad- 
 mirably suited for the purpose, no regular fishing esta- 
 blishment has been settled here. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 limits of the presbytery of Kirkwall, synod of Orkney. 
 The minister's stipend is £1.54. 6., of which more than 
 half is paid from the exchequer ; with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £50 per annum : patron, the Earl of 
 Zetland. There was originally a church in each of the 
 united districts, but both the buildings falling into decay 
 towards the close of the last century, one church was 
 erected in a centrical situation iu 1799, by the heritors, 
 in lieu of the two ; it is a neat structure containing 49S 
 sittings. There are places of worship for members of 
 the Free Church and Independents. The parochial 
 school is well attended : the master has a salary of £30, 
 out of which he pays £4 to an assistant for teaching a 
 small number of children in the island of Gairsay ; he 
 has also a house and garden. A school is supported by 
 the Society for the Propagation of Christian Knowledge. 
 Along the shores of the parish are numerous Picts' 
 houses, and in Evie several tumuli, some of which, on 
 being opened, were found to contain small areas from 
 one to two feet square, inclosed with flat stones, and 
 about eighteen inches in depth, in which there were 
 ashes, charcoal, and fragments of burnt bones. In 1832, 
 on taking down an old farm-building in Rendall, 150 
 silver coins were found wrapped in coarse woollen-cloth, 
 in a hole in one of the walls, supposed to have been 
 concealed there during the time of Cromwell ; they were 
 of the reigns of Elizabeth, James, and Charles I., with a 
 few of Scottish currency. 
 
 EWE, an island, in the parish of Gairloch, county 
 of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 34 inhabitants. It 
 is situated in Loch Ewe, on the western coast of the 
 county. The isle is about two miles in length, in some 
 parts nearly a mile in breadth, and is a fertile and well- 
 cultivated tract, upon the improvement of which much 
 care and expense have been bestowed. The loch is 
 between eight and ten miles long, and into its inner part 
 pours the beautiful stream of the Ewe, which is the na- 
 tural outlet from Loch Maree. This stream is celebrated 
 for the abundance of its salmon. 
 
 EWES, a parish, in the county of Dumfries, 
 4 miles (N.) from Langholm ; containing 328 inhabit- 
 ants. Ewes-dale, the former appellation of this place, 
 has been long contracted into Ewes, the name of its 
 chief river, so called from the Celtic Uisge, signifying 
 water. The parish is eight miles in length, and about 
 five and a half in breadth, and contains 31,000 acres. 
 On the north and east it is bounded by Roxburghshire, 
 on the south by Langholm parish, and on the west by 
 that of Westerkirk. It is pastoral and mountainous, 
 and the country on both sides of the river Ewes, which 
 runs through the parish for eight miles, is marked by 
 numerous hills, which are nearly all green, with the ex- 
 ception of a few parts overspread with heath, and afford- 
 ing cover and food for various kinds of game. The 
 rivers abound in fish. In the low lands by the Ewes 
 
 3 I
 
 E Y E M 
 
 the soil is light and gravelly, and produces in favourable 
 seasons good crops of oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips ; 
 on the higher grounds it approximates to a deep loam. 
 The number of arable acres is 1100, of natural pasture 
 '23,169, and in wood and plantations 200 acres. The 
 cattle are of the Galloway breed, and the sheep, in gene- 
 ral amounting to about 18,000, are the Cheviots : the 
 parish consumes the produce of the ground at home, 
 the chief profit consisting in the sale of wool, sheep, and 
 cattle. All the necessary improvements in husbandry 
 have been carried into effect, and the farm-buildings are 
 in the best order. The principal rocks are greywacke 
 and greywacke slate. The means of communication are 
 good ; the great road from Edinburgh to Carlisle runs 
 for eight miles within the parish, and there are two 
 other public roads, one of which leads to the east, and 
 the other to Dumfries and Moffat. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £4951. Ecclesiastically 
 Ewes is within the limits of the presbytery of Lang- 
 holm and synod of Dumfries ; patron, the Duke of Buc- 
 cleuch. The stipend is £221, with a good manse and 
 offices, and a glebe of thirty arable acres. The church, 
 an ancient structure, was repaired in 1831, and contains 
 200 sittings. There is a parochial school, in which the 
 usual branches are taught, with French, Latin, Greek, 
 and mathematics ; the master has the maximum salary, 
 about £5 fees, and the legal accommodations. Some 
 almshouses were founded in 1*61 by the Rev. Mr. Mal- 
 colm, minister of the parish, for the support of four of 
 the poorest families, to whom the Duke of Buccleuch 
 gives half an acre of ground for a garden. On the farm 
 of Unthank, in the parish, are remains of a chapel con- 
 nected with Melrose Abbey ; the burying-ground is still 
 in use. There are also vestiges of two encampments, 
 either Saxon or Pictish. 
 
 EYEMOUTH, a sea-port, burgh of barony, and 
 parish, in the county of Berwick, 3 miles (N. E.) from 
 Ayton, and 8 (N. N. W.) from Berwick ; containing 1401 
 inhabitants. This place, which derives its name from 
 its situation at the influx of the river Eye into the sea, 
 appears to have been indebted for the degree of impor- 
 tance it possessed at a remote period to its connexion 
 with the priory of Coldingham, to which it seems to 
 have been granted by charter in the reign of William 
 the Lion. From its advantageous position, it was pro- 
 bably early made available as a port for the landing 
 and embarking of pilgrims visiting the priory, and for 
 the supply of that establishment with various stores for 
 the use of its numerous fraternity. Few events of his- 
 torical importance are recorded in relation to the place 
 prior to the erection of a fortress here by the Duke of 
 Somerset in his invasion of the country in the year 
 154/. This fortress was dismantled on the conclusion 
 of a treaty of peace between England and France in 
 1550 ; it was afterwards restored and garrisoned for a 
 time, but was finally demolished at the period of the 
 union of the two kingdoms. The town, which is plea- 
 santly situated at the mouth of the river Eye, is irregu- 
 larly built, but contains many good houses. It is chiefly 
 inhabited by persons employed in the corn trade, which 
 is carried on to some extent ; in the fisheries; and in the 
 various handicraft trades requisite for the neighbour- 
 hood. The streets are well paved, and the inhabitants 
 are supplied with water conveyed by iron pipes. The 
 approaches are commodious, and a good bridge has been 
 426 
 
 E YEM 
 
 built across the Eye, near which the turnpike-road to 
 Ayton branches off in two directions, one leading by the 
 north, and the other by the south, bank of the river. 
 A chain-bridge, also, has recently been thrown over the 
 Eye, by Capt. Sir Samuel Brown, to form a readier com- 
 munication with his estate of Netherbyres. A paro- 
 chial library is supported by subscription, and forms a 
 tolerable collection of volumes on divinity and other 
 subjects. 
 
 The TRADE in grain, since the establishment of the 
 market, has been rapidly increasing, and is now very 
 extensive : the quantity of grain sold in the first year 
 after the opening of the market was estimated at 
 £20,000. Warehouses have been erected on the quay, 
 and a spacious building formerly used for barracks has 
 been converted into a store-house. On the river is a 
 mill for preparing pearl-barley and oatmeal, of which 
 great quantities are shipped for London. The manu- 
 facture of paper has been established at Millbank, just 
 without the borders of the parish, where a spacious mill 
 with the requisite machinery has been erected, in which 
 a considerable number of persons are employed. The 
 post-office, which is a branch of the office at Ayton, 
 possesses a good delivery ; and the Commercial Bank 
 has one of its agencies in the town. The market is on 
 Thursday, and is abundantly supplied with grain, and 
 numerously attended : two fairs, also, are annually held 
 here, but very little business is transacted at them. A 
 lucrative fishery is carried on ; the fish usually taken 
 are cod, haddock, and herrings. In the cod and had- 
 dock fishery about fifteen boats are regularly engaged, 
 each of which is managed by six men, and the yearly 
 produce is estimated at more than £3000. The herring- 
 fishery is also very productive, and in 1820 afforded em- 
 ployment to more than 100 boats, whose cargoes in that 
 year amounted to 10,000 barrels : in 1844 the fleet en- 
 gaged in the fishery consisted of sixty-one boats. The 
 cod, either dried or pickled, is generally sent to London ; 
 the red or smoked herrings to London, Hull, Newcastle, 
 and Glasgow ; and the white or pickled herrings to Ire- 
 land, and the ports of the Baltic. 
 
 The business of the port consists chiefly in the ex- 
 portation of grain and the produce of the fisheries and 
 distillery ; and in the importation of timber, bones for 
 manure, rags for the paper manufacture, coal, slates, 
 bricks and tiles, freestone, and paving stones, vfith 
 various articles of general merchandise. In the year 
 1834 the exports were, S50 quarters of wheat, 4300 
 quarters of barley, 2800 quarters of oats, and 2800 
 gallons of spirits ; the quantity of coal imported was 
 2367 tons, and the whole number of vessels that en- 
 tered the port was 198. The harbour, which previously 
 to the year 1770 was exposed to the north-east winds, 
 was then much improved and rendered more secure by 
 the erection of a pier and breakwater under the direc- 
 tion of Mr. Smeaton ; and it has been subsequently 
 enlarged and deepened by the removing of shingle and 
 the clearing away of rocks. In 1844 an extensive 
 additional pier was completed to afford security to the 
 shipping. The depth of water at spring tides is sixteen 
 feet, and at neap tides ten feet ; and from its situation 
 in the German Ocean, and its facility of access, the har- 
 bour is much frequented by vessels detained by contrary- 
 winds. The custom-house is superintended by a prin- 
 cipal coast-officer, and two tide-waiters also reside on 
 
 I
 
 E Y E M 
 
 FAIR 
 
 the spot ; the care and management of the port are 
 under the control of a board of trustees appointed by 
 act of parliament. Eyemouth was erected into a burgh 
 of barony by charter granted in 1597, by James VI., in 
 favour of Sir George Home of Wedderburn, with all the 
 usual privileges, and is governed by a baron-bailie ap- 
 pointed by the superior of the barony. With the con- 
 sent of the superior, the burgesses had power to elect 
 magistrates, to erect a gaol, and hold courts for the trial 
 of all offences not capital, and the determination of civil 
 pleas to an unlimited amount, together with a weekly 
 market and two annual fairs ; but the only jurisdiction 
 exercised by the bailie is the occasional holding of a 
 court for the determination of petty causes. 
 
 The PARISH is about a mile and a half in length, and 
 nearly of equal breadth, comprising 8S0 acres, of which, 
 with the exception of about twenty acres in woodland 
 and a few acres of pasture, the whole is arable. Its 
 surface is varied, in some parts rocky, and the scenery 
 is diversified with wood and water. The river Eye has 
 its source at Dodhill, in the parish of Oldhamstocks, 
 and after flowing through Cockburnspath, Coldingham, 
 and Ayton, forms the eastern boundary of this parish 
 for about a mile, and falls into the sea. The Ale, a 
 small rivulet, runs for some miles along a picturesque 
 valley, then constitutes the southern boundary, and 
 joins the Eye at the south-eastern extremity of the pa- 
 rish. Every where the soil is extremely rich and fertile ; 
 the system of agriculture is in a very advanced state, 
 and the four and six shift rotations equally prevail : the 
 crops are wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, and turnips. 
 Bone-dust and sea-wrack are amply used for manure ; 
 the lands are well drained and inclosed, and all the more 
 recent improvements in implements of husbandry have 
 been adopted. The sheep are of the Leicestershire breed, 
 and the cattle of the short-horned or Teeswater ; very 
 few of either are reared in the parish, but a considerable 
 number are bought, and fed for the market on turnips 
 and grass. The chief substrata are grey wacke and grey- 
 wacke slate, with rocks of trap and porphyry. There is 
 also a rock of breccia or coarse conglomerate, forming 
 the promontory that bounds the bay : this stone, of 
 which the breakwater and quays of the harbour were 
 constructed, is of excellent quality ; it is quarried for 
 building, and can be raised in masses of any size. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £2683. 
 The manor-house of Linthill is an ancient edifice, plea- 
 santly situated on the banks of the Ale, near its influx 
 into the river Eye, and commands a finely-varied pros- 
 pect, embracing the harbour, with the shipping, and the 
 sea in the distance. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Chirnside, synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and in the 
 patronage of the Crown. The minister's stipend is 
 £130. 19- 6., exclusively of a composition for tithes of 
 fish, for which each boat pays £1. 13. 4. ; with an ex- 
 cellent manse, and a glebe of nine acres and a half 
 Eyemouth church, situated in the centre of the town, 
 was erejcted in 181'2; it is a neat edifice with a tower, 
 presenting little exterior embellishment, and is adapted 
 for a congregation of 450 persons. There are places of 
 worship for the Free Church, the United Presbyterian 
 Synod, and Primitive Methodists. The parochial school 
 affords a liberal course of instruction ; the master has a 
 salary of £34, with £23 fees, and a house and garden. 
 427 
 
 A branch of the National- Security Savings' Bank is 
 prosperously conducted. There are some remains of the 
 fort erected by the Duke of Somerset, occupying a con- 
 siderable site on the promontory projecting into the sea, 
 which, from its commanding position, affords an exten- 
 sive prospect. Little is left except the foundations, now 
 covered with verdure ; but it would appear to have been 
 a place of great extent and of massive proportions. The 
 adjacent grounds have been tastefully laid out, and form 
 an interesting and much frequented promenade. Eye- 
 mouth gave the title of Baron to the great Duke of 
 Marlborough. 
 
 FAIFLEY, a village, in that part of the parish of 
 Old Kilpatrick which formed the quoad sacra parish 
 of DuNTOCHER, county of Dumbarton, 2^; miles (E. N. 
 E.) from Old Kilpatrick; containing 321 inhabitants. 
 This place is in the vicinity of Duntocher, and is one of 
 several villages within a mile of each other on the north- 
 ern side of the Clyde, owing their prosperity to the 
 recent introduction of the cotton and woollen manufac- 
 tures, and the erection of mills, steam-engines, and other 
 machinery and facilities for their production, chiefly 
 through the spirit and enterprise of Mr. "William Dunn, a 
 resident proprietor of land here. About the year 1812, 
 Mr. Dunn purchased the mill of the Faifley Spinning 
 Company, by whom this branch of business had been 
 carried on for some time previously, but on a limited 
 scale ; and having made large additions to the buildings, 
 and invited the industry of the inhabitants by the most 
 liberal encouragement, the village soon increased in ex- 
 tent and population. Besides the spinning and weaving 
 of cotton, the chief product of the place, there are iron- 
 works, in which spades, shovels, and other articles are 
 made ; and some minor manufactures. The principal 
 stream in the parish, which issues from two lochs be- 
 hind the Kilpatrick braes, passes here, and falls into the 
 Clyde at Dalmuir. There are two small schools. 
 
 FAIR, an island, forming part of the parish of Dun- 
 ROSSNESS, in the county of Shetland ; containing 232 
 inhabitants. It lies between the Orkney and Shetland 
 groups, and is about three miles in length and nearly 
 two in breadth, presenting three lofty promontories, and 
 encompassed with precipitous rocks. The island is every 
 where inaccessible, except upon the south-east, where, 
 lowering itself a little, it affords a safe station for small 
 vessels. One of the promontories, the Sheep Craig, is 
 nearly insulated, rising from the sea in a conical shape 
 to an elevation of 480 feet. The soil is moderately fer- 
 tile, and the hills are clothed with excellent pasturage 
 for sheep. Fair Isle is thickly peopled, and the inha- 
 bitants are chiefly engaged in the taking of saith, about 
 forty tons of which, when dried, are annually sent to 
 the Leith market : the ling and cod fishing formerly 
 prosecuted has been discontinued on account of its dis- 
 tance from the island. The houses are clustered toge- 
 ther on the southern shores in the form of small hamlets, 
 or, as they are here called, towns, which are named respec- 
 tively Seutter, Taing, Shirva, Leogh, Bousta, and Gelah. 
 A substantial church, capable of accommodating 120 
 
 3 12
 
 FA LA 
 
 FAL A 
 
 persons, was built by the proprietor of the isle many 
 years ago, at a cost of £150, and is distant from the 
 parish church thirty-five miles. There is also a good 
 school. In 15SS, the flag-ship of the Duke de Medina- 
 Sidonia, the admiral of the Spanish Armada, was wrecked 
 on this island, and tradition points out the humble re- 
 sidence of the shipwrecked commander. 
 
 FAIRLIE, a village, and for a time a quoad sacra 
 district, in the parish of Largs, district of Ccnning- 
 HAME, county of Ayr, 3 miles (S. by E.) from Largs ; 
 containing 521 inhabitants. This district consists of 
 the southern division, and comprehends about one-third, 
 of the parish of Largs. It is bounded on the west by 
 the Firth of Clyde, and the land rises rather abruptly 
 from the shore, and terminates in two distinct chains of 
 hills on each side of the Kelburn. The loftiest of these 
 hills attains an elevation of nearly '2000 feet, and their 
 substrata are red and white freestone to the height of 
 between 300 and 500 feet, and whinstone on the upper 
 range : at the division of the hills pudding-stone abounds. 
 Of 5000 acres, not more than 200 or 250 are under til- 
 lage, and about the same quantity iu natural wood and 
 plantations ; the low parterres of Kelburn, the richest 
 in Ayrshire, let at from five to si.v pounds per acre. The 
 chief owner of the soil is the Earl of Glasgow, whose 
 seat of Kelburn is a beautiful mansion, of which the 
 more substantial part was built in 1556, and the prin- 
 cipal modern additions in 1715. 
 
 Fairlie village is seated on the coast of the Clyde, and 
 on the line of the turnpike-road from Greenock to Ayr. 
 It is a very pleasant little place, much frequented during 
 the summer and autumn by visiters who resort hither 
 from the large and populous towns for the benefit of the 
 sea air and for bathing. The climate is remarkably 
 salubrious ; and the retired and picturesque character 
 of the vicinity, ornamented with numerous villas and 
 much beautiful scenery, renders it a popular and very 
 favourite spot, preferred by many strangers to the 
 bustling town of Largs, also a well-frequented watering- 
 place. There is much cod, ling, and haddock fishing, 
 and herrings are occasionally caught : at Kelburn is a 
 salmon-fishery. Steam-boats from Glasgow and Greenock 
 call at the village daily in summer. Ecclesiastically, 
 Fairlie is within the bounds of the presbytery of Greenock, 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and the patronage is vested 
 in the Managers and Communicants : the minister's 
 stipend is £"5, arising from seat-rents, and from ordinary, 
 and two special, collections. The church was built in 
 1833-4, at an e.\pense of about £650, and contains 300 
 sittings. The members of the Free Church have a place 
 of worship. There is an excellent school-house, the 
 master of which has the interest of £300 bequeathed by 
 Lady Jane Boyle, and of £100 added by Glasgow gen- 
 tlemen who have summer residences around Fairhe : the 
 noble proprietor of Kelburn has also given him a house. 
 Attached to the church is a library, and another to the 
 school. Of Fairlie Castle, a strong square building, said 
 to have belonged to Hardicanute, the walls are still en- 
 tire ; and not far from it, but in West Kilbride parish, 
 are remains of an ancient chapel, round which are some 
 fine old trees. Kelburn confers the title of Viscount on 
 the Earl of Glasgow. 
 
 FALA and SOUTRA, a parish, partly in the county 
 of Haddington, but chiefly in that of Edinburgh ; 
 containing, with part of the village of Faladam, 393 in- 
 42» 
 
 habitants, of whom 1 12 are in the village of Fala, 85 
 miles (S. E.) from Dalkeith. The name of Fala is de- 
 rived from Fah, in the Anglo-Saxon, " speckled ", and 
 law, the description of hill upon which the church stands : 
 Soiitra signifies '• the hamlet with a prospect ". In 1 164 
 an hospital for the relief of pilgrims, dedicated to the 
 Holy Trinity, was founded at Soutra by Malcolm IV., 
 who conferred upon it the privilege of sanctuary ; and 
 its endowments, which were very extensive, embraced 
 the churches of Soutra, Wemyss in Fife, St. Giles of 
 Comiston, and several others. The revenues were sub- 
 sequently vested in Trinity College and Hospital, Edin- 
 burgh ; and afterwards, about 1560, in the town council 
 of that city, who thus became patrons of Soutra church. 
 Of the church of Fala, the history of which is very ob- 
 scure, the patronage belonged previously to the Reforma- 
 tion to the family of Edmestown. In the year 16 18, 
 on the 20th February, the two parishes were united ; and 
 the estate of Fala after some time descended to the Ha- 
 miltons of Preston, and through their heiress to Sir John 
 Dalrymple of Cousland : the present proprietor of Fala 
 proper is the Earl of Stair. Soutra church, having been 
 abandoned, became a ruin ; and the walls of one of its 
 aisles, and some occasional irregularities of surface indi- 
 cating prostrate dwellings, are now the only vestiges of 
 the former village, once so considerable and populous. 
 The district of Soutra is in the county of Haddington. 
 
 The PARISH is about five miles iu length, from east 
 to west, and three and a half in breadth, from north to 
 south. Its western division consists of a ridge of the 
 Lammermoor hills, laid out, with the exception of some 
 patches in tillage, for the pasturage of sheep ; whilst 
 the eastern division, which is chiefly of a clayey soil and 
 of an undulated surface, is in good cultivation, producing 
 all the crops common to the district of the Lothians. 
 There are considerable tracts of moss and moorland, and 
 a large extent of marsh, whence issues a sheet of water 
 on Fala muir, called the Flow. The prevailing scenery is 
 very beautiful, and includes many objects of interest and 
 admiration. Among these may be mentioned, Soutra 
 hill, which forms the western point of the Lammermoors, 
 and is upwards of 1200 feet above the sea ; the mansion 
 and lands of Woodcot ; Costerton House, very roman- 
 tically situated ; the rich fields and wooded inclosures 
 around the ancient halls of Hamilton and Fala ; the 
 cascade of Linndean, and several intersecting rivulets. 
 The wider prospect from Soutra hill presents numerous 
 handsome residences, the highly-cultivated plains of the 
 Lothians, the Pentland hills, and castle of Edinburgh, 
 with the Firth of Forth and the coasts of Fife in the dis- 
 tance. 
 
 Of late years the system of husbandry in the parish 
 has been much improved : the lands have been partly 
 drained, and inclosed, chiefly with hedges of thorn ; and 
 material advantage will arise from the drainage of Fala 
 Flow, a measure already in progress. The sheep, of 
 which considerable numbers are reared on the moorland 
 farms, are mostly a cross between the Gala-water and 
 Tweedsmuir breeds, with a few of the Cheviot. A mo- 
 derate number of black-cattle, and a few horses for the 
 plough, are also reared. The annual value of real property 
 in the Edinburghshire portion of the parish is £1583, 
 and in the Haddingtonshire portion £1298. Fala village 
 is situated on a commanding eminence, and in its imme- 
 diate vicinity are the commodious inn and hamlet of
 
 F AL K 
 
 F A L K 
 
 Blackshiels, the post- place of the district : a little north- 
 ward of the latter is Faladam, partly in the parish of 
 Crichton. The great road between Edinburgh and Lau- 
 der affords a facility of communication. Ecclesiastically 
 the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Dalkeith, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the stipend 
 of the minister is £169, of which more than one-half is 
 received from the exchequer, and there is a manse, with 
 a glebe valued at £25. 10. per annum. The patronage is 
 vested in the Earl of Stair and the Town Council of 
 Edinburgh, who exercise it alternately. The church, 
 which is pleasantly seated on an eminence overlooking 
 the village, is a plain and unpretending edifice, affording 
 accommodation to 250 persons. There is a place of 
 worship in connexion with the United Presbyterian Sy- 
 nod. The parochial school is attended by about eighty 
 children ; the master has the maximum salary, with a 
 house aud garden, and the fees average about £25 per 
 annum. A good parish library has been formed by the 
 contributions of the inhabitants. On Soutra hill are some 
 ruins of the hospital ; and the aisle of the ancient church 
 is used as the burial-place of a neighbouring family. 
 
 FALADAM, a hamlet, partly in the parish of Crich- 
 ton, and partly in that of Fala, county of Edinburgh ; 
 containing 64 inhabitants. It lies on the road from 
 Lauder to Edinburgh, and is distant about half a mile 
 north-west from the village of Fala. The population is 
 employed in tending sheep and cultivating the soil. 
 
 FALKIRK, a burgh,mar- 
 ket-town, and parish, in the 
 county of Stirling ; the 
 parish including the villages 
 of Barleyside, Bonnybridge, 
 Glen, and Laurieston, the 
 quoad sacra parish of Came- 
 lon, and part of the former 
 quoad sacra parish of Grange- 
 mouth ; and containing 
 1 5,62 1 inhabitants, of whom 
 8209 are in the town, 11 
 miles (S. E.) from Stirling, 
 and 25 (W. by N.) from Edinburgh. This place, which 
 is situated on the ancient boundary between the Roman 
 territories on the south, and those of the Caledonians on 
 the north, is supposed to have derived its former name, 
 Eccles-brae, from the position of its church on the brow 
 of a hill, of which position that appellation is accurately 
 descriptive. According to some writers, the present 
 name arose from the place being near the wall of Anto- 
 nine, and was originally Wall- Kirk, of which the term 
 Falkirk is considered a modification. From its situation, 
 it became at a very early period the scene of numerous 
 sanguinary conflicts, in one of which, between the Roman 
 forces and those of Fergus II., in the year 415, Robert 
 de Graham, the commander of the king's army, was 
 slain, and his remains interred in the churchyard, from 
 which circumstance that portion of the wall within the 
 parish received the appellation of Graham's Dyke. In 
 1298, a battle took place to the north of the town, near 
 the present village of Grahamston, between the army 
 of Edward I. of England and the Scots under William 
 Wallace, in which Sir John Graham of Dundaff, and Sir 
 John Stewart of Bonkill, who commanded divisions of 
 the Scottish army, were both killed. The Scots, dis- 
 pirited by the fall of their leaders, and overpowered by 
 429 
 
 numbers, were compelled to give way ; and after a dread- 
 ful carnage on each side, crossing the river Carron, they 
 retreated northwards. Sir John Graham and Sir John 
 Stewart were interred in the churchyard, where their 
 grave-stones are still preserved. In the reign of James 
 III., the town was for some time in the possession of 
 the discontented nobles who had risen in rebellion 
 against their sovereign and assembled a numerous army 
 at this place; but previously to the arrival of the royal 
 troops, which were on their march to attack them here, 
 the rebel forces advanced to Sauchie-Burn, near Stirling, 
 where a battle with the royal troops took place, which 
 terminated in the defeat and death of the king. 
 
 In 1543, a meeting was held at Callendar House, the 
 seat of Lord Livingstone, in this parish, between the 
 Earl of Arran, regent of Scotland, and Cardinal Beaton 
 and the Earl of Moray, when a treaty was concluded, 
 which put an end to the projected union of Mary, Queen 
 of Scots, and Prince Edward, son of Henry VIII. of 
 England. Callendar House was frequently visited by 
 Mary, who, with part of her retinue, halted here on her 
 route to the north in 1562, and in 1565 became sponsor 
 at the baptism of the infant son of William, sixth Lord 
 Livingstone. In 1567, the queen, with her infant son, 
 afterwards James VI., spent a night at Callendar on her 
 route to visit her husband, Lord Darnley, at Glasgow ; 
 and also, on her return, accompanied by Darnley, spent 
 a day here, and on the following morning proceeded to 
 Edinburgh. After the queen's escape from the castle 
 of Lochleven, Lord Livingstone welcomed her arrival at 
 Niddry Castle ; and at the battle of Langside, after dis- 
 tinguishing himself for his fidelity and valour at the 
 head of his vassals, accompanied her in her flight from 
 the field, and, with Lady Livingstone, attended her in 
 the various prisons in which she was afterwards confined 
 by Elizabeth. These faithful adherents of the queen, 
 and companions of her misfortunes, both died in England 
 in 1573, and their remains were conveyed for interment 
 in the church of Falkirk. 
 
 During the minority of James VI., the Earl of Mor- 
 ton, who had resigned the regency of Scotland, having 
 seized the person of the king, and obtained possession 
 of Stirling Castle, assembled a considerable army 
 of his friends, and encamped at Falkirk, where, also, 
 the army of his opponents soon arrived to offer him 
 battle ; but just as the engagement was about to take 
 place, a truce was agreed to on both sides, and a treaty 
 was subsequently concluded, which was published at 
 the market-crosses of Stirling and this town in 1578. 
 In the parliamentary war in the reign of Charles I., 
 James, first Earl of Callendar, who was a firm adherent 
 of the king, became a commander in the army which 
 marched to his relief when a prisoner in the Isle of 
 Wight, the earl being attended by a large body of his 
 Falkirk retainers. On the defeat of these forces, the earl 
 retired to Holland ; and the partisans from this place, 
 forcing their way through the ranks of the victorious 
 parliamentarians, returned home. After the battle of 
 Dunbar, in 1650, Cromwell marched to the Torwood, in 
 the vicinity of Falkirk, in pursuit of the royal army, 
 and on his route stormed and took possession of Cal- 
 lendar House, in which a garrison had been placed. 
 The siege was carried on with great obstinacy, and many 
 fell on both sides before the garrison surrendered ; the 
 houses in the town were plundered by the troops of
 
 F ALK 
 
 F AL K 
 
 Cromwell, and the church was occupied by his soldiers 
 as stabling for their horses. On the removal of the 
 old gates of the mansion of Callendar, by the late pro- 
 prietor, numerous remains of those who fell during the 
 siege were discovered. During the rebellion of 1/45, a 
 battle occurred on the moors to the south-west of the 
 town, between the forces under General Hawley and a 
 party of Highlanders in the service of the Young Pre- 
 tender, in which the numbers engaged on each side have 
 been estimated at 8000. The combat terminated in the 
 total defeat of the royal forces, of whom nearly 300 were 
 left dead on the field ; and among those who fell were 
 Sir Robert Munro of Foulis, and his brother, Dr. Munro, 
 to whose memory a monument was raised nearly in the 
 centre of the churchyard. 
 
 The titles of Linlithgow and Callendar became united 
 in James, fifth Earl of Linlithgow and fourth Earl of 
 Callendar, on whose joining in the rebellion of 1745 they 
 became extinct ; the estates had been sold in 1720 to 
 the York Buildings' Company, and on its dissolution 
 were purchased by the late William Forbes, Esq., father 
 of the present proprietor. The lands of Kerse, in the 
 parish, were bought in 16S3 from Sir William Living- 
 stone of Kilsyth, a branch of the Callendar family, by 
 Sir Thomas Hope, king's advocate, from whom they de- 
 scended to his second son, one of the lords of session, and 
 afterwards lord justice-general. They were subsequently 
 purchased by Lawrence Dundas, Esq., of Edinburgh, 
 whose son. Sir Thomas, was created a peer in 1794 by 
 the title of Lord Dundas ; on his demise they passed to his 
 son, Lawrence, created Earl of Zetland in 1838, and they 
 are now the property of Thomas, the second earl. 
 
 The TOWN is situated on the road from Linlithgow 
 to Glasgow, and consists of one principal street nearly 
 a mile in length, and of several smaller streets parallel 
 with it, or diverging from it in various directions. The 
 houses, many of which are of modern date, are hand- 
 some and well built. In the high street is the town- 
 house, erected in 1813, on the site of an ancient steeple 
 built in 1697 and taken down in 1803 ; the edifice has 
 an elegant spire 140 feet high, and forms a great orna- 
 ment to the town. Falkirk is well paved, lighted with 
 gas, and amply supplied with water. Owing to its situa- 
 tion on an eminence, from which is a gentle declivity on 
 both sides, it is always dry and clean ; and, admitting 
 a free circulation of air, it is regarded as a healthful 
 place of residence. From the main street, a street called 
 the Kirk Wynd extends for more than a mile to the 
 north, connecting the town with the villages of Grahams- 
 ton and Bainsford, and having handsome ranges of 
 modern houses on each side. About a mile westward 
 of the town is the populous village of Camelon. Nearly 
 at the same distance to the east is Laurieston, and be- 
 yond this, close to the junction of the Forth and Clyde 
 canal with the river Carron, is the populous and flou- 
 rishing town and port of Grangemouth, which, with the 
 various other villages in the parish, is noticed under its 
 own head. There are several libraries in the town, sup- 
 ported by subscription, the principal of which, established 
 in 1792, has a collection of more than 3000 volumes ; 
 a circulating library contains 1200, and a United-Pres- 
 byterian-Church library 1000 volumes. Public sub- 
 scription reading and news rooms are also well sup- 
 ported. A school of arts was founded in 1827, and 
 has continued to increase ; it possesses a library of 600 
 430 
 
 volumes, and lectures on natural history and the arts 
 and sciences are delivered weekly by the members. A 
 horticultural society has been some time established in 
 the town, under very extensive patronage ; the members 
 hold meetings four times during the season, when exhi- 
 bitions of fruits and flowers take place. 
 
 Many of the inhabitants are employed in the Carron 
 iron-works, a most important concern in the adjoining 
 parish of Larbert. The principal manufactures carried 
 on in Falkirk parish are in the immediate vicinity of 
 the town, and in the several villages. Of the establish- 
 ments in the vicinity of the town, the most extensive are 
 the Falkirk iron-works, on both sides of the Forth and 
 Clyde canal, about half a mile distant, and in which 
 about 700 persons are occupied in the manufacture of 
 small castings of every description, including pans, 
 kettles, stove-grates, and various other articles for the 
 home trade and for exportation. There are four tan- 
 neries near the town, in three of which the currying of 
 leather is also carried on, and in the other the dressing 
 of sheep and lamb skins ; they together afford employ- 
 ment to about fifty persons. The weaving of muslin 
 and coarse linen, formerly much more extensive, is 
 carried on by about forty of the inhabitants, chiefly for 
 the Glasgow manufacturers. Here is a large brewery 
 for porter and ale, of which latter considerable quan- 
 tities are sent to London. Several persons are also 
 employed in building vessels for the trade on the canal, 
 for which there is a yard upon its banks. The making 
 of nails is carried on at Camelon, where is also a distil- 
 lery : at Castlecary, Bonnyside, and near Bainsford, are 
 extensive saw-mills ; and at Grahamston are works for 
 the manufacture of pyroligneous acid. 
 
 From its vicinity to the Carron and Falkirk iron- 
 works, from the extensive collieries around, and the 
 great cattle-trysts which are held on Stenhouse Muir, 
 the town of Falkirk derives its chief traffic ; and it is 
 generally the resort of the dealers attending those mar- 
 kets, and of numerous persons connected with the works 
 in the vicinity, who make it their head-quarters, and 
 for whose accommodation there are commodious inns, 
 and shops amply supplied with stores and merchandise 
 of every variety. The post-office has a considerable 
 delivery, and there are branch offices at Grangemouth, 
 Camelon, Grahamston, and Laurieston. The old Falkirk 
 Bank has been superseded by a branch of the Bank of 
 Scotland ; there are branches of the National Bank 
 and the Clydesdale Banking Company, and the Com- 
 mercial Banking Company have a concern here, for which 
 a very handsome building has been erected in the High- 
 street. Facihties of communication are afforded by 
 good roads that intersect the parish, by the Forth and 
 Clyde and the Union canals, and by the railways that 
 pass through the parish. The Forth and Clyde canal 
 was commenced in I768, under an act of parliament 
 enabling the company to raise a capital of £150,000 in 
 shares of £100 each, and was completed in 1790 by a 
 grant of £50,000 from government. Its total length is 
 thirty-eight miles and a half, from Grangemouth, in this 
 parish, to the Clyde at Glasgow. The summit level is 
 141 feet above the sea, and is attained by twenty locks 
 on the eastern, and nineteen on the western side ; the 
 breadth of the canal at the surface is fifty-six feet, at 
 the bottom twenty-seven feet, and the average depth is 
 nine feet. It is navigable for vessels of eighty or ninety 
 
 J I
 
 FALK 
 
 F A LK 
 
 tons, and passes through the entire length of the parish. 
 The Union ciiinil, extending to Edinburgh, was cora- 
 raeuced in 1818, and completed in 18'22 ; the breadth 
 is forty feet at the surface, and twenty feet at the 
 bottom, and its mean depth is five feet. It enters the 
 parish on the east, and runs through it for above three 
 miles to its junction with the Forth and Clyde canal : in 
 its progress through the parish it has a long tunnel. The 
 Edinburgh and Glasgow railway enters the parish from 
 Polmont, on the east, and passes in a direction almost 
 parallel with the Union canal. At Callendar is a tunnel 
 345 yards in length, twenty-six feet in width, and 
 twenty-two feet in height. Near the termination of the 
 Union canal, the railway is carried over it by an arch 
 130 feet in span ; the line then runs in nearly the same 
 direction as the Forth and Clyde canal, and at Redburn 
 has a lofty viaduct of seven arches, soon after which it 
 quits the parish. This railway, which passes south of 
 the town, for eight miles through the parish, was opened in 
 1842; and the Scottish Central railway, which runs through 
 the north-western part of the parish, in 1848. The 
 latter railway, and the Caledonian railway, terminate in 
 the western part of the parish, in junction with the 
 Edinburgh and Glasgow line. In 1846 an act was ob- 
 tained for the construction of a short line from the 
 Edinburgh and Glasgow railway near Polmont, to pro- 
 ceed on the north side of the town of Falkirk, to a junc- 
 tion with the Scottish Central railway near Larbert. 
 The market, which is amply supplied with grain and 
 provisions of all kinds, is on Thursday ; and exclusively 
 of the great cattle-trysts on Stenhouse Muir, in the ad- 
 joining parish of Larbert, nine fairs are held in the 
 town on the first Thursdays in March, April, and 
 November, the second Thursdays in June and July, the 
 third Thursdays in May and August, and the last Thurs- 
 days in January and October. They are chiefly for 
 cattle and horses, and are very numerously attended. 
 
 The inhabitants received a charter from James VI., 
 erecting the town into a free burgh of barony ; and in 
 the reign of Charles II., the Earl of Callendar obtained a 
 charter constituting it a royal burgh, with liberty to 
 elect magistrates, create free burgesses, to hold courts, 
 and have a ])rison, and the privilege of two weekly mar- 
 kets and four annual fairs. The control has been for 
 many years vested in two separate bodies, called the 
 stent-masters and the feuars ; the stent-masters are 
 twenty-four in number, of whom four are chosen by the 
 merchants, and two by each of the several trades. Both 
 these bodies elect from among themselves a president 
 and treasurer ; the former body attend to the lighting 
 of the town and the supply of the inhabitants with 
 water, and the latter principally to the tolls and cus- 
 toms, and the management of the town estates. The 
 burgh exercises no magisterial jurisdiction j courts of 
 justice are held monthly under the superintendence of 
 a sheriff-depute who resides here. By act of William 
 IV., the municipal government of the burgh was for- 
 mally vested in a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and 
 seven councillors ; but no funds having been assigned 
 for defraying expenses, the corporation do not interfere 
 with the established management. The police is under 
 a constable appointed by the sheriff of the county, and 
 in cases of emergency the town is watched by a body of 
 the inhabitants, called the town guard ; the only prison 
 is a small apartment for temporary confinement, in the 
 431 
 
 town-house. Under the Reform act the town is associa- 
 ted with the burghs of Airdrie, Hamilton, Lanark, and 
 Linlithgow, in sending a member to parliament, Falkirk 
 being the returning burgh. 
 
 The PARISH, which is situated in the eastern division 
 of the county, is bounded on the north by the Carron, 
 except that, from some alteration in the course of that 
 river, a few small portions are now on the northern 
 bank. It is about nine miles in length, and varies from 
 two to five miles in breadth, comprising an area of 
 nearly 15,000 acres, of which 11,000 are arable, 2000 
 meadow and pasture, 1800 woodland and plantations, 
 and the remainder waste. From the banks of the river 
 to the town the surface is an extended plain of level 
 carse land, in the most luxuriant state of cultivation, 
 with a gentle acclivity towards the town, to the south of 
 which the ground rises gradually to an elevation of 600 
 feet above the sea, and towards the east and west is 
 pleasingly undulated. The higher parts command ex- 
 tensive and beautifully-diversified prospects over the 
 adjacent country, comprising various towns and villages, 
 with numerous elegant mansions and pleasant villas, 
 encircled by the heights of Kilsyth and Denny, with 
 the Ochil and Saline hills, and, to the north-west, the 
 far distant and lofty mountains of Benledi and Ben 
 voirlich. The river Carron, which flows in a winding 
 course for about fourteen miles past the parish, into 
 the Forth a little below Grangemouth, is navigable for 
 vessels of 200 tons to the village of Carronshore, beyond 
 which it is a limpid stream abounding with trout, perch, 
 and eels. At Castlecary, on the west, a rivulet, dividing 
 the parish from Cumbernauld in the county of Dum- 
 barton, forms in its progress a picturesque cascade of 
 eighty feet ; a little to the north of which it joins a 
 stream called the Bonnywater, falling into the Carron 
 near the village of Bonnybridge. The Grange burn se- 
 parates the parish for nearly two miles from that of 
 Polmont on the east, and afterwards flows into the Car- 
 ron. Near the village of Camelon, the Lightwater burn, 
 now a small streamlet, runs through the centre of a 
 wide channel which appears to have been once the bed 
 of a very considerable river, the banks, with their several 
 windings, being clearly defined. The adjacent lands 
 have every appearance of a coast indented with bays, 
 and marked by projecting headlands; and in the imme- 
 diate vicinity is the site of an ancient town, supposed to 
 have been the city of Camelon, which, according to tra- 
 dition, was a sea-port : indeed, fragments of anchors 
 and boats of antique form have at various times been 
 found embedded in the soil. There are three small lakes 
 in the higher portion of the parish, but they are not dis- 
 tinguished by features of importance. 
 
 The SOIL is generally fertile, and in the lower lands 
 luxuriantly rich. The system of agriculture is in a very 
 advanced state, and has been brought to great perfec- 
 tion under the auspices of the Agricultural Association 
 of the eastern district of the county, which was esta- 
 blished here in 1839, and of which the Earl of Dunroore 
 is patron, and Mr. Forbes of Callendar president. The 
 crops are wheat, beans, barley, and oats, with rye-grass 
 and clover ; and the breed of cattle has been much im- 
 proved. The farm houses and offices are substantial and 
 commodiously arranged, and the lands are well inclosed. 
 Lime is extensively used, and considerable quantities of 
 manure are supplied from Grangemouth ; tile-draining
 
 F A L K 
 
 F A L K 
 
 is generally practised, and belonging to the Earl of Zet- 
 land are three kilns for the manufacture of the tiles. 
 The parish abounds with coal, particularly in the higher 
 districts, where are several collieries, producing not only 
 an abundant supply for the vicinity, but also for expor- 
 tation.. Ironstone, limestone, and sandstone are also 
 plentiful ; and veins of silver, copper, lead, and cobalt 
 have been found, but not in any considerable quantity. 
 Freestone is extensively wrought, and there are not less 
 than seven quarries in operation, affording employment 
 to 160 men ; a wbinstone quarry has also been opened, 
 from which blocks were raised for the Edinburgh and 
 Glasgow railway. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £28,748. The woodland at Callendar is 
 supposed to have formed a portion of the ancient Cale- 
 donian forest that occupied a considerable tract of this 
 part of the country. The timber is generally oak, beech, 
 ash, hazel, and birch ; and the plantations, which are 
 under good management and in a thriving state, are 
 chiefly Scotch fir and larch, adding greatly to the variety 
 and beauty of the general scenery. Callendar House, 
 the seat of William Forbes, Esq., is a spacious and an- 
 cient mansion with walls of great thickness and turrets 
 of antique character, retaining much of its original ba- 
 ronial magnificence, though in some parts modernised 
 by the late proprietor. It is situated in a park of more 
 than .500 acres, embellished with timber of venerable 
 growth ; and within the grounds is the family mauso- 
 leum, a handsome circular building of the Grecian-Doric 
 order, in which are the remains of the late Mr. Forbes. 
 Kerse House, the seat of the Earl of Zetland, is a very 
 ancient mansion with numerous additions of more mo- 
 dern date, and eliiefly in the Elizabethan style, which 
 forms its prevailing character ; it is beautifully seated 
 in a well- wooded park forming the chief ornament of 
 the eastern carse lands, and the pleasure-grounds are 
 tastefully laid out. Bantaskine House is a handsome mo- 
 dern mansion on an elevated spot about half a mile from 
 the town, and ornamented with thriving plantations : the 
 grounds comprise a pleasing variety of scenery, and com- 
 mand some extensive prospects. 
 
 This parish, which was formerly much more exten- 
 sive, including the parishes of Denny, Slamannan, Muir- 
 avonside, and Polmont, separated from it at various 
 times, is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Linlith- 
 gow, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The minister's 
 stipend is £339, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 
 per annum ; patron, the Crown. Falkirk church was 
 originally founded by Malcolm Canmore, in 1057, and 
 was a cruciform structure with a central tower : the pre- 
 sent church was built in 1810, with the exception of the 
 ancient tower, the area under which now forms a porch ; 
 it is of quadrangular shape, and contains 1300 sittings. 
 Churches have been erected at Camelon and Grange- 
 mouth ; and a place of worship once belonging to the 
 Old-Light Associate Synod, is now in connexion with 
 the Independent body. There are places of worship for 
 the Free Church, United Presbyterian Church, and Bap- 
 tists. In the summer of 1843 there was opened a very 
 handsome Roman Catholic chapel, built in the pointed 
 style, and capable of accommodating from 700 to 800 per- 
 sons with sittings. Attached to it is the residence of 
 the priest, in a corresponding style of architecture. 
 These buildings are delightfully situated, and, in point 
 of appearance, are by far the most attractive in FaUiirk. 
 432 
 
 Two parochial schools are maintained, in one of which 
 are taught the Latin, Greek, and French languages, and 
 in the other only the Enghsh language, writing, and 
 arithmetic, with the usual branches of general education. 
 The master of the former has a salary of £17, with a 
 house and garden, and fees averaging £35 per annum ; 
 the master of the English school has a salary of £34, 
 with a dwelling-house and garden, and fees amounting 
 to £48. There are numerous other schools in the parish, 
 together affording instruction to more than 1200 chil- 
 dren : one of these, at Falkirk, is exclusively for the 
 gratuitous instruction of the poor, of whom about eighty 
 are in attendance, and the master has a salary of £40, 
 arising from an annual collection at the parish church, 
 and private donations. 
 
 The remains of several of the forts erected by Agricola 
 may still be seen in the direction of the vallum built 
 afterwards by Antoninus. At Castlecary, at the western 
 extremity of the parish, the site of one of these forts, a 
 field six acres in extent, now covered with grass, may 
 be distinctly traced ; part of the vaulted foundations is 
 remaining underneath the surface, and many of the 
 stones belonging to the fort have been used in the in- 
 closure of the field. The old tower of the castle of 
 Castlecary, which is a very ancient structure, and said 
 to be Roman, is still tolerably entire, and is inhabited by 
 the Earl of Zetland's forester. At this hamlet, also, is 
 a landing-place for passengers by the canal boats. 
 Stones with various inscriptions, now preserved in the 
 college of Glasgow, have been dug up in various parts 
 of the ditch which defended the Roman wall, and of 
 which portions are yet discernible in Callendar Park, 
 and in the grounds of Bantaskine House. Vestiges re- 
 main of a Roman road that entered the parish at Castle- 
 cary, and passed along the south side of the wall, nearly 
 to Roughcastle, then crossed the wall, and led to the 
 fort at Camelon, and thence to the river Carron, where 
 it entered the parish of Larbert ; and in excavating the 
 Forth and Clyde canal, at no great distance, a Roman 
 granary has been discovered, in which was wheat of a 
 blackish colour. Part of the vertebrae of a whale has 
 been found embedded in the clay at Grangemouth, while 
 making excavations there; also in the brick-field of the 
 Earl of Zetland, about three miles from the sea ; and in 
 excavating the tunnel for the Edinburgh and Glasgow 
 railway in 1840, the trunk of a petrified tree, about five 
 feet in circumference, was discovered at a depth of 129 
 feet below the surface. 
 
 FALKLAND, a royal 
 burgh and a parish, in the 
 district of Cupar, county of 
 Fife, 10 miles (W.) from ; 
 Cupar, and 24 (N. N. E.) 
 from Edinburgh ; containing, 
 with the villages of Balmblae, 
 Freuchie, and Newton, 2886 
 inhabitants, of whom 1313 
 are in the burgh. This place, 
 anciently called Kilgour, sig- 
 nifying in the Gaelic language 
 the "Hill of Goats", is situ- 
 ated in a secluded spot at the northern base of the East 
 Lomond hill, and was one of the principal strongholds 
 of the Macduffs, thanes of Fife. In the castle here 
 David, Duke of Rothesay, eldest son of Robert HI., was 
 
 Burgh Seal.
 
 F A L K 
 
 FANS 
 
 starved to death by order of his uncle, the Duke of 
 Albany, on whose attainder in the year 1424 it was for- 
 feited to the crown together with the lands attached to 
 it, and, from the forest in the vicinity, became a favour- 
 ite hunting-seat of the Scottish kings. The present 
 palace was erected on the site of the ancient castle by 
 James V., who made it his occasional residence, and 
 died here in 1542. The queen regent was staying at the 
 palace when she was informed of the destruction of the 
 cathedral of St. Andrew's ; and with Mary, Queen of 
 Scots, it was also a place of favourite resort. James VI. 
 passed much of his time here while pursuing the diver- 
 sion of the chase ; and it was from Falkland that the 
 Earl of Bothweil, in 1593, decoyed him to Perth, with 
 the daring attempt to obtain possession of his person. 
 Charles II., while in the power of the Covenanters, re- 
 sided at the palace for some days : subsequently to his 
 restoration to the throne, the building was considerably 
 damaged by an accidental fire. After the battle of 
 Sheriffmuir in 1715, the palace was seized by Rob Roy 
 Mc Gregor, who, with his party, kept possession of it 
 for a time, and laid the country around under contri- 
 bution. The buildings at present consist of one side, 
 and portions of some of the angles and other sides, of 
 a quadrangle which in its appearance is similar to those 
 of Holyrood House and Stirling ; the original ceiling of 
 the hall, or grand audience-chamber, is still entire, and 
 displays some splendid specimens of elaborate carving 
 and exquisite paintings. Notwithstanding the injuries 
 to which it has been exposed, the palace has been par- 
 tially restored by the family of Bruce, who purchased 
 the estate, and it is now inhabited by their agent. 
 
 The TOWN consists principally of one spacious street, 
 in which are the market-place and town-hall, and from 
 which diverge several narrow and irregularly-formed 
 streets in various directions. In general the houses are 
 of antique appearance, with thatched roofs, intermixed 
 with several houses of modern erection, of white free- 
 stone, which have greatly improved the aspect of the 
 place ; and the inhabitants are amply supplied with 
 water. The only important trade carried on is hand- 
 loom weaving, in which most of the people are employed, 
 at their own houses. To the south-east of the town, 
 near the junction of the parishes of Falkland, Kettle, 
 and Markinch, is the Falkland Road station of the 
 Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. The market is 
 well supplied with provisions of every kind ; and fairs, 
 chiefly for cattle and horses, are held on the second 
 Thursday in January, the last in February and April, 
 the third in June, the first after the 12th of August, the 
 fourth in September, and on the Friday before the Edin- 
 burgh Hallow fair in November. Falkland was erected 
 into a royal burgh by charter of James II., granted in 
 1458, and confirmed by James VI. in 1595 : the govern- 
 ment is vested in three bailies, fifteen councillors, and a 
 clerk, chosen agreeably with the regulations of the Mu- 
 nicipal Reform act. The magistrates exercise civil and 
 criminal jurisdiction over the whole extent of the royalty; 
 but very few cases are brought under their decision, 
 except debts to a trifling amount, and petty offences 
 against the police. At one period the burgh enjoyed 
 the privilege of sending a member to the Scottish parlia- 
 ment ; but it ceased to exercise the right, before the 
 Union in 1*07. The town-hall, in the market-place, con- 
 tains the requisite courts and an assembly-room. 
 Vol. I.— 433 
 
 The PARISH is about four miles in length, and nearly 
 of equal breadth, comprising an area of 10,000 acres, of 
 which about 300 are woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder arable, meadow, and pasture. Its surface is 
 partly flat, including an extensive tract formerly the 
 Park of Falkland, and partly diversified with hills, the 
 highest of which is the East Lomond, full 1200 feet in 
 height, and fertile to the very summit. The principal 
 river is the Eden, which flows through the parish ; and 
 numerous springs of excellent water issue from the hills : 
 a lake eastward of the palace, in which were several 
 islets, has been drained, and the land brought into cul- 
 tivation. The soil is various, partly a light brown loam, 
 partly sand and gravel covered with heath and furze, 
 and partly a deep black moss : the whole length from 
 east to west between the plain and the Lomond hill is a 
 rich loam, producing abundant crops. The system of 
 husbandry has been greatly improved under the auspices 
 of Mr. Bruce and the other landed proprietors ; a large 
 tract of common has been converted into fine arable 
 fields, and most of the other waste has been reclaimed 
 and made profitable. Draining and inclosing are exten- 
 sively practised, and the various farms under beneficial 
 leases have been carried to the highest state of produc- 
 tiveness. The Lomond hill abounds with limestone, and 
 lead-ore has been discovered in it, but not wrought ; 
 coal, marl, and fullers' earth are also found in various 
 parts. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £8606. Falkland House (recently erected at Nuthill), 
 the seat of the family of Bruce, is a very elegant man- 
 sion beautifully situated, and embellished with thriving 
 plantations. Ecclesiastically the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Cupar, synod of Fife : the 
 minister's stipend is £252. 8., with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £18 per annum; patrons, the Bruce family. 
 Falkland church, erected in 1620, and repaired in 1770, 
 is a plain structure containing 687 sittings. There are 
 places of worship for members of the Free Church, the 
 United Presbyterian Synod, and Baptists of Free Com- 
 munion. The parochial school is well attended ; the 
 master has a salary of £34, with an annual allowance of 
 £10 for a house and garden, and the fees average about 
 £50. On the Lomond hill are vestiges of an ancient 
 camp supposed to be of Roman origin. The town gives 
 the title of Viscount to the Gary family, a dignity created 
 in the person of Sir Henry Cary, K. B., who was ap- 
 pointed lord lieutenant of Ireland in 1622, and on his 
 death in 1633 was succeeded in the title by his son, Lu- 
 cius, one of the most learned and accomplished men of 
 his age, slain at the battle of Newbury in 1643. 
 
 FANKERTON, a village, in the parish of Denny, 
 county of Stirling ; containing 68 inhabitants. It lies 
 in the north part of the parish, and on the road from 
 Denny to Fintry, the Carron water running here in 
 nearly a parallel direction. A part of the population is 
 employed in the Herbertshire mill, a considerable paper 
 manufactory, on the opposite bank of the Carron, in the 
 parish of Dunipace. 
 
 FANS, a village, in the parish of Earlstoun, county 
 of Berwick, 3 miles (R. N. E.) from Earlstoun ; contain- 
 ing 153 inhabitants. The village lies in the northern 
 part of the parish, and a -short distance from the river 
 Eden, A school is supported chiefly by George Baillie, 
 Esq., of Mellerstain, by whom the teacher is also allowed 
 a dwelling, 
 
 3 K
 
 F A R N 
 
 F A RR 
 
 FARAY, an isle, in the parish of Walls, county of 
 Orkney; containing 55 inhabitants. It is of small ex- 
 tent, lying eastward of the large island of Hoy, of which 
 the southern portion, with this and other islands, con- 
 stitutes the parish of Walls. There is some good pas- 
 turage for sheep. 
 
 FARNELL, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 
 4 miles (S. E.) from Brechin; containing 620 inhabit- 
 ants. This place probably derives its name from a 
 den here having been anciently the resort of swans. 
 The parish is about three miles in length, and two in 
 breadth ; it is bounded on the north by the river South 
 Esk, and comprises 5540 acres, of which 3330 are ara- 
 ble, 560 in woods and plantations, 600 undivided com- 
 mon, and the remainder forest land, called Monteithmont 
 muir. Though generally flat, the surface rises towards 
 the north, and on the south side is marked by a ridge 
 of hills of no great elevation, extending into the parishes 
 of Marytown and Craig. The river, which has its 
 source in the Grampian hills, separates the parish from 
 the town of Brechin, and falls into a small bay of the 
 sea, on the west of Montrose. It abounds with salmon 
 and small trout, and in that part of its course which 
 skirts the parish it runs between banks of great beauty, 
 richly wooded, and along which a road has been con- 
 structed, commanding several highly picturesque pros- 
 pects. A small rivulet that flows near the church, 
 occasionally, after rain or the melting of the snow, 
 swells into a torrent, bursting its banks, and inundating 
 the adjacent meadows ; its channel has, however, been 
 deepened, and other means adopted to confine it within 
 due limits. In the higher lands the soil is of rather 
 inferior quality, but in the lower a rich loam intermixed 
 with clay, of great fertility, and well adapted for the 
 growth of wheat. The crops are wheat, oats, barley, 
 peas, beans, turnips, and potatoes. The system of agri- 
 culture is in a very advanced state ; the lands are 
 drained and inclosed, the farm-houses and offices of 
 very superior character, and all the more recent im- 
 provements in husbandry are practised. There are two 
 mills for meal, and two saw-mills, one of which latter 
 is occasionally used for making bone-dust, as manure 
 for turnip land. The ordinary kinds of live stock are 
 reared with great attention, and the farmers of the 
 parish have obtained many of the prizes awarded by 
 the Forfarshire Agricultural Association. A few years 
 ago, the workmen employed at the tile- work at Calcary, 
 in the parish, came to a deposit of fossil fishes, em- 
 bedded in the clay at a depth of twenty feet from the 
 surface, and not less than sixty or seventy feet above 
 the present level of the South Esk. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £5246. 
 
 The plantations are chiefly larch and Scotch fir, occa- 
 sionally intermixed with various kinds of forest-trees, 
 and are judiciously managed and in a flourishing condi- 
 tion. Kinnaird Castle, the seat of Sir James Carnegie, 
 Bart., is a spacious and handsome mansion of quadran- 
 gular form, with a square tower at each of the angles, 
 and has an imposing grandeur of eflFect ; the demesne is 
 tastefully laid out and richly wooded, and the lawn iu 
 front of the house is embellished with some very stately 
 timber. Facility of communication is afforded by a 
 turnpike-road lately constructed from Forfar to Mon- 
 trose, which passes for two miles through the parish ; 
 by good roads kept in repair by statute labour ; and by 
 434 
 
 the recently-opened Aberdeen railway. Ecclesiastically 
 Farnell is in the presbytery of Brechin, synod of Angus 
 and Mearns, and in the patronage of the Crown ; the 
 minister's stipend is £250. 10., with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £20 per annum. The church is a hand- 
 some edifice in the early English style of architecture, 
 with a finely- vaulted roof, and is adapted for a congrega- 
 tion of about 330 persons. Farnell parochial school is 
 well attended ; the master has a salary of £30, with 
 about £20 fees, and a house and garden. The poor 
 have the interest of bequests to the amount of £500, 
 producing £25 a year. Near the church, and within the 
 den from which the parish takes its name, are the re- 
 mains of the ancient castle of Farnell, the baronial seat 
 of the Ogilvys of Airlie : it is still in good repair, and 
 part of it is appropriated, rent free, as dweUings for in- 
 firm and aged persons. 
 
 FARR, a parish, in the county of Sutherland, 19 
 miles (VV. by S.) from Thurso ; containing, with the 
 former quoad sacra district of Strathy, 221* inhabitants. 
 The name of Farr, or Far, as it is sometimes written, 
 may be derived from the Gaelic word Faire, implying a 
 " watch " or " sentinel ". It doubtless arose in reference 
 to the Dun, or circular tower, standing on the coast, 
 about half a mile north of the parish church, and which 
 formed the first and most important of a regular chain 
 of such ancient buildings extending for more than twenty- 
 four miles into the interior. These towers are thought 
 to have been erected by a race called in Gaelic Criiiniiich, 
 from a word signifying " circular ", or one denoting " a 
 gathering together ". There are also numerous tumuli 
 in the neighbourhood, which are generally considered to 
 have been the burying-places of invaders, especially 
 Danes, who fell in the fierce and bloody conflicts so 
 frequent with the native inhabitants ; the sepulchres of 
 the chieftains are usually at a little distance from the 
 ordinary burying-places, and marked out by some signal 
 and more permanent memorial. In the churchyard of 
 Farr, for example, is a large erect stone, curiously sculp- 
 tured with pagan devices, and traditionally reported to 
 note the burial-place of some Dane of distinction, by 
 many supposed to be a prince ; it is two feet in breadth, 
 six feet above the ground, and as many feet beneath. 
 Several of the tumuli are said to be the depositories of 
 those who fell in the battle between Reginald, King of 
 the Isles, and Harold, Earl of Orkney and Caithness. 
 In times less remote, the ancient clan of the Mackays 
 made a very considerable figure here, their principal re- 
 sidence during the fifteenth, sixteenth, and seventeenth 
 centuries being Strathnaver, of which Farr formed a part. 
 Subsequently, upon the marriage alliance between the 
 Earls of Sutherland and the Gordons, some of the latter 
 came to reside in the district ; and about a hundred 
 years ago there were few persons in the parish but Mac- 
 kays and Gordons, which names, indeed, are still the 
 most numerous among the population. The ancient 
 castle, probably built by the Norwegians, is supposed to 
 have been the seat of the Mackays of Farr before they 
 were created barons under the title of Lords Reay. 
 
 The PARISH lies in the northern extremity of Scot- 
 land, and is about forty miles long, varying in breadth 
 from eight to twenty miles, and containing 300,000 
 acres. It is bounded on the north by the Northern 
 Ocean. The general aspect of the parish is mountainous, 
 the surface having in most parts a very thin shallow 
 
 I
 
 F A R R 
 
 F A R R 
 
 soil, and in others exhibiting only bare rock. The 
 principal mountain is Bein Chlibrig, of conical shape, 
 and the loftiest in Sutherland, of which the southern 
 side is partially covered with heath and grass, but the 
 northern is bare and rocl<y ; it is situated in the south- 
 western part of the parish, and attains to 3200 feet 
 above the level of the sea, attracting great numbers of 
 ptarmigan, who locate themselves about the summit. 
 The other hills, nearer the sea-coast, reach different de- 
 grees of elevation, but are all inferior in height to the 
 Chlibrig. There are several picturesque valleys, also 
 forming striking features in the scenery ; the chief are 
 those called Strathnaver and Strathrathy, which both 
 in extent and beauty far exceed all the rest. Strath- 
 naver extends from the coast in a south-west direction 
 for about twenty-eight miles, including the ground 
 along the river Naver, the loch of Naver, and the water 
 of Mudale, beyond the loch : it is considered, for the 
 richness of its pasture and the variety of its scenery, 
 the most interesting Highland vale in the county. 
 Strathrathy runs immediately south from the sea for 
 twelve miles, and lies about ten miles north-east of 
 Strathnaver, between which and this valley are situated 
 the less commanding but still pleasing straths of Kirk- 
 tomie, Armidale, Swordly, and Clachan, in the last of 
 which stand the church and manse. There are about 
 thirteen miles of sea-coast, reaching from Naver bay in 
 the west to Baligil burn in the east. The shore is for 
 the most part abrupt and precipitous, and dangerous 
 to mariners, but contains the bays of Naver, Farr, 
 Kirktomie, Armidale, and Strathy, where boats may 
 safely land in moderate weather. The headlands are 
 Airdniskich, Aird of Farr, Aird of Kirktomie, and 
 Strathy head, from the last of which the lights of Cape 
 Wrath and the promontory of Dunnet Head are seen on 
 a clear day. In the parish are, besides, numerous caves, 
 natural arches, and fissures, along the coast as well as 
 in the interior, some of which are visited with consi- 
 derable interest by the curious ; the chief caves by the 
 sea-side are those in the Aird of Kirktomie and Strathy 
 point, and at Farr is a very fine natural arch. 
 
 There are many springs of excellent water in the 
 parish, and several fresh-water lakes of considerable 
 extent and beauty, the largest of them being Loch Naver, 
 Loch Coir-na-fearn, and Loch Strathy. Loch Naver, 
 which is seven miles long, about a mile and a half broad, 
 and in some parts thirty fathoms deep, is by far the 
 most important lake : its shore at different parts ex- 
 hibits all the varieties of rock, pebbles, and sand. The 
 rivers are the Naver, the Borgie, and the Strathy, the 
 first of which, the largest in the county, issuing from 
 the loch of the same name, is joined near Achness by 
 a stream rising in Loch Coir-na-fearn, and after receiv- 
 ing many other waters in its meandering, and sometimes 
 rapid and sometimes apparently quiescent, course through 
 the strath, falls into the sea about eighteen miles from 
 its source. The river Strathy flows from Loch Strathy, 
 and, when augmented by the swellings of its tributaries 
 from the several hills and marshes, becomes a powerful 
 stream. The Borgie which issues from Loch Loyal, in 
 the parish of Tongue, forms a boundary of this parish, 
 and joins the ocean within a mile of the Naver, at Torris- 
 dale. There are salmon-fishings in it, which for a long 
 time past have belonged to the Sutherland family. In- 
 deed, all the larger lakes and rivers contain a plentiful 
 435 
 
 supply of salmon ; and in the smaller, trout are taken 
 in considerable quantities. 
 
 The SOIL differs greatly : a very large portion of it in 
 the interior, especially in the vicinity of the lochs, ex- 
 cept Loch Naver, is a deep moss ; while that on the 
 borders of the rivers Strathy and Naver consists of 
 sand, gravel, and moss. Along the coast it is found to 
 be light and sandy, and in the neighbourhood of the 
 bays, in addition to this, to contain some alluvial de- 
 posits. About 800 acres in various parts are occupied 
 by wood, and about 700 on the coast are cultivated by 
 small tenants : with these deductions the whole land is 
 laid out in extensive sheep-walks. The herbage is of 
 many kinds, varying principally according to the eleva- 
 tion of the land : the common red heather, deer-hair, 
 and the long tough grass called flying-bent are com- 
 monly found on the mountains, hills, and moors ; and 
 in the softer marshes is a profusion of the species known 
 by the name of cotton-grass. The trees growing here 
 are of much variety, and, with some trifling exceptions, 
 are indigenous ; the alder attains a considerable size 
 on the grounds watered by the Naver, where, also, the 
 birch is most flourishing and abundant. About 22,000 
 sheep of the Cheviot breed are annually grazed in the 
 parish. The land occupied by the small tenants is 
 generally of uneven surface, and capable of great im- 
 provement by draining, inclosing, and ploughing ; the 
 crops consist of oats, bear, and potatoes. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £808. The rocks 
 and stone in the district, which are abundant in every 
 direction, are chiefly coarse granite, gneiss, and sand- 
 stone. On the coast near Kirktomie is a considerable 
 quantity of red sandstone, mixed with conglomerate, 
 and in the vicinity of Strathy is some superior limestone, 
 from which a material for burning into lime is obtained ; 
 also a large quarry of white sandstone, easily convertible 
 to purposes of utility from the readiness with which it is 
 dressed by the chisel. At Strathy the strata of free- 
 stone and limestone are horizontal ; in the rest of the 
 parish the strata of rock are nearly vertical, or form an 
 angle of from five to thirty degrees with the perpen- 
 dicular. Cattle-trysts are held at Aultnaharrow on the 
 14th September, and at Bettyhill on the first Wednesday 
 in November. Salmon are taken in considerable quan- 
 tities at three stations on the coast, and about eighteen 
 boats are engaged in the herring-fishery during the 
 season, from May till September ; the salmon are sold 
 to a company who have a curing establishment here. 
 Turbot, cod, ling, haddock, and other fish are also ob- 
 tained. There is a post-office in the parish connected 
 with the market-town of Thurso, thirty-two miles dis- 
 tant ; and the inhabitants have some facility of com- 
 munication by means of a mail-diligence carrying four 
 passengers, which runs to and fro, three times a week, 
 between Thurso and the neighbouring parish of Tongue, 
 between which places there is also a weekly carrier. 
 The road from Bonar-Bridge to Tongue passes through 
 the heights, and about sixteen miles of the line from 
 Tongue to Thurso near the coast. On the river Naver 
 is a chain-boat, and over the different parish-roads are 
 two bridges of three arches each, and twelve bridges of 
 one arch. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Tongue, synod of Suther- 
 land and Caithness ; patron, the Duke of Sutherland. 
 
 3 K2
 
 FEAR 
 
 FEAR 
 
 The stipend of the minister is £16*, with a good manse, 
 built in 1818, and a glebe valued at £8 per annum. Farr 
 church, situated near the coast, is convenient for the 
 population, the greater portion of whom reside in its 
 vicinity, the remoter district being peopled only by an 
 inconsiderable number of shepherds in the employ of 
 the great sheep-farmers. It was erected in 1*74, and 
 is a plain building with substantial walls, seating about 
 750 persons. There is a government church at Strathy, 
 ten miles eastward from the parish church, built in 
 1826, and accommodating about 350 persons. The 
 members of the Free Church have also a place of wor- 
 ship. There is a parochial school, in which instruction 
 may be obtained in the classics, mathematics, and all 
 the ordinary branches of education ; the master has the 
 maximum salary, with about £5 fees, a house, and £3 
 in lieu of a garden. Three other schools are supported 
 respectively at Strathy, Arniidale, and Clarkhill, of which 
 that at Clarkhill is under a female teacher. The master 
 of the school at Strathy, a parliamentary one, has a 
 salary of £25, with about £4 iu lieu of fees. The Com- 
 mittee of the General Assembly give a salary of similar 
 amount to the teacher of Armidale, the fees being £3 ; 
 and the mistress of Clarkhill receives £5 from the So- 
 ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and the fees. 
 In the two former of these three schools, the classics 
 and mathematics are taught, in addition to the usual 
 branches of education. The masters have excellent 
 accommodations, including each a house and garden, 
 and a croft of land from the Duke of Sutherland. 
 His grace derives his title of Baron Strathnaver from 
 the vale in this parish : the dignity was conferred upon 
 the duke's ancestor as early, it is supposed, as the be- 
 ginning of the thirteenth century. 
 
 FASKINE, a village, in the parish of Old Monk- 
 land, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 1| mile 
 (S.) from Airdrie ; containing 408 inhabitants. It is 
 situated in the eastern extremity of the parish, and is 
 one of the numerous villages that owe their rise to the 
 minerals or manufactures of the district. Faskine is the 
 seat of an extensive colhery, and it was here that the 
 coal called the Splint, or Lady Anne coal, was first found, 
 the seam deriving its name from Lady Anne Stirling, 
 the wife of A. Stirling, Esq. In the neighbourhood of 
 the village are four ironstone mines. 
 
 FEARN, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 8 miles 
 (W.) from Brechin, and 9 (N.) from Forfar, the county 
 town; containing 404 inhabitants. This parish not long 
 ago had its proportion of Urns, cairns, and Druidical 
 remains ; but almost the only vestige of ancient times 
 now visible is the castle of the Vane. The name of the 
 structure is doubtless a corruption of the word Ba7ie, 
 signifying "white" or "fair", and the castle is said to 
 have been built for the residence of a lady of that name, 
 by Cardinal Beaton, who lived in the former half of the 
 sixteenth century. Tradition reports that the secret 
 cause of Colessie's defection at the battle of Brechin, in 
 the year 1452, proceeded from a refusal on the part of 
 Crawford to put him in possession of the barony of 
 Fearn as a proper reward for his services : the result of 
 the battle was fatal to Crawford and his coalition, and 
 the family of Stuart was again firmly established on the 
 throne. The extreme length of the parish is nearly 
 seven miles, and at several points it is nearly three in 
 breadth. On the east' it is bounded by the parishes of 
 436 
 
 Careston and Menmuir, on the north by the united pa- 
 rish of Lethnot and Navar, and on the south and west by 
 the parish of Tannadice. The surface is rather strongly 
 marked by two ridges, running parallel to each other 
 and to the Grampian range, and the one rising so con- 
 siderably above the other as to exhibit, at a httle dis- 
 tance, the appearance of one continued declivity from 
 the Grampian summits to the valley of Strathmore. 
 There are two small streams, one the Cruach (or Hunch- 
 back, a name rather singularly applicable), which winds 
 diagonally through the middle of the parish, and the 
 other the Noran, which, from the point where it comes 
 in contact, forms the south-west boundary of the parish. 
 This latter stream falls into the Southesk ; its waters 
 are proverbially crystalline, and the banks generally 
 picturesque and beautiful. Upon a careful examination 
 of topographical landmarks, few would hesitate to con- 
 clude, that at some former period the Noran joined the 
 Cruach, first by one channel, and then by another; that, 
 thus united, they both fell into the Northesk ; and that 
 the channel by which the Noran enters the Southesk, is 
 one of the most recent instances in the country of a 
 river-channel that has been scooped out of a rocky field. 
 Very little more than a slight embankment would still 
 give the streams one course, and empty both into the 
 Northesk, seven or eight miles to the north of the present 
 junction of the Cruach with the Northesk. 
 
 On the southern dechvities the soil in general is rich 
 and fertile, and on the northern obdurate and barren. 
 The whole e.\tent of the arable surface is little short of 
 3100 acres, divided into sixteen farms of unequal size; 
 there may be about 330 acres under plantation, and the 
 remainder is quite in its natural state, open, and over- 
 grown with heath, whins, and broom. At one time, the 
 growth of wheat had its share of attention ; but this 
 crop is now altogether superseded by the alternations of 
 green crops with oats and barley. The deep free loam 
 upon which the farmers work gives them plentiful re- 
 turns of these, followed by a pasturage unsurpassed for 
 richness and abundance by any section of the county. 
 The minerals are such as are common in the neighbour- 
 hood, with the exception of a red argillaceous rock which 
 decomposes upon exposure to the atmosphere, and is 
 known by the local name of kalm. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £42*0. Noranside is a 
 respectable modern mansion here, beautifully wooded, 
 and commanding a singularly extensive view of Strath- 
 more from east to west. Fearn parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Brechin, synod of Angus 
 and Mearns, and in the patronage of the Crown. The 
 minister's stipend is £155, with a manse, and a glebe of 
 ten acres. The church is situated on the summit of a 
 natural mound in the middle of a circular den, with the 
 manse and the school and school-house almost conti- 
 guous : the site is good, and commodious for the popu- 
 lation. The master of the parochial school has a salary 
 of £28. 12. 6., with a house and garden, and the fees. 
 
 FEARN, a parish, in the county of Ross and Cro- 
 marty, 5 miles (S. E.) from Tain ; containing, with the 
 villages of Balintorc and Hiltown, 1914 inhabitants. 
 The Gaelic name of this parish, Fearnn, signifies "the 
 alder-tree", and was applied in consequence of the great 
 number of alders growing at Mid-Fearn, in the parish 
 of Edderton, in the neighbourhood. An abbey was 
 founded there in the reign of Alexander II., by Far-
 
 F E N T 
 
 F E N W 
 
 quhar, first Earl of Ross ; but a bull was afterwards 
 obtained from the pope for removing the establishment 
 to a fertile plain in this parish, on account of the com- 
 parative sterility of the lands in Edderton. The abbey 
 was not only a place of worship before the Reformation, 
 but was used as such until October, 174'2, when sud- 
 denly, during the performance of divine service, the roof 
 fell in, and thirty-six persons were instantly killed, eight 
 others dying soon afterwards. The parish, which is 
 about two miles wide, and several miles in length, 
 stretches along the western shore of the Moray Firth, 
 and is bounded on the north by the parish of Tain, on 
 the south by that of Nigg, and on the west by Logic 
 Easter. Its surface is nearly level, with the exception 
 of a few eminences ; about three-fourths of the area are 
 arable, and the rest partly green, and partly covered with 
 heath. The coast for about a mile is flat and sandy, 
 especially where the fishing-village of Balintore lies; but 
 Hiltown, another fishing-station, half a mile from the 
 fornjer, is skirted by a coast altogether bold and rocky. 
 The loch of Eye, the only water of consequence, is about 
 two miles long, and half a mile broad. 
 
 In the centre of the parish the soil is a deep loam : 
 the loans of Fearn to the south, and the lands of Allan 
 to the west, are a deep clay ; and in other parts the soil 
 is gravelly or sandy. The greater portion is cultivated, 
 or occasionally in tillage; 158 acres are occupied by 
 wood, and the remainder is waste or pasture. Many 
 improvements have taken place in agriculture within 
 the last thirty or forty years, by trenching, draining, 
 and levelling; green crops are extensively raised, and 
 some of the best wheat in Scotland is grown here. The 
 produce is sent to the Leith and London markets ; and 
 a monthly market for swine is held on the hill of Fearn. 
 Fisheries of grey fish and herring are carried on to a 
 considerable extent by the villagers residing on the sea- 
 shore. The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £5'-2'29. Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds 
 of the presbytery of Tain and synod of Ross ; patron, 
 the Crown. The stipend of the minister is £'206, with 
 a good manse, and a glebe of five acres, worth about 
 £11. 10. per annum. Fearn church is of early English 
 architecture. There is a parochial school, the master of 
 which has a salary of £36 (including £2 for garden), 
 with a house, and about £10 fees. At Balintore is also 
 a school, in which Gaelic is taught, and of which the 
 teachers are supported by the Society for Propagating 
 Christian Knowledge. The chief antiquities in the pa- 
 rish are the ruins of the old abbey; the castle of Lochlin, 
 situated on the eastern head of the lake of the same 
 name ; the vestiges of the very ancient castle of Cad- 
 boll, and several Druidical temples. Here is buried Sir 
 John Lockhart Ross, of Balnagown, vice-admiral of the 
 Blue, a distinguished naval hero, who died in 1/90. 
 
 FENTON, a village, in the parish of Di rleton, county 
 of Haddington, 4 miles (S. W. by W.) from North Ber- 
 wick ; containing ^01 inhabitants. This place consists 
 of East and West Fenton, and lies in the southern part 
 of the parish, a short distance from the PeflTer burn, the 
 parish boundary in that direction. A part of the lands 
 in this neighbourliood formerly belonged to the powerful 
 family of DeVallibus, or De Vaux. In 1603, James VI., 
 having given the castle of Dirleton to Sir Thomas Ers- 
 kine, captain of the English guard, for his valour in 
 preserving him from the traitorous attempt of Gowrie, 
 437 
 
 created him Baron Dirleton, and afterwards, in 1606, 
 Viscount Fenton, this being the first dignity of viscount 
 created in Scotland : in 1619, he was raised to the title 
 of Earl of Kellie. Some years since, upwards of thirty 
 pentagonal basaltic pillars were laid bare on the farm of 
 West Fenton. 
 
 FENWICK, a parish, in the district of Cunmng- 
 HAME, county of Ayr ; including the villages of Kirk- 
 town and Upper Fenwick, and containing 20 IS inha- 
 bitants, of whom 35.5 are in Upper Fenwick, 4 miles 
 (N. N. E.) from Kilmarnock. This place in ancient 
 times formed part of the parish of Kilmarnock, from 
 which it was separated in the year 164'2, and called New 
 Kilmarnock, its present appellation being subsequently 
 derived from Fenwick hill, in the vicinity of the church. 
 The parish is nine miles in length and upwards of six 
 in breadth, and is in figure nearly an oblong. Its sur- 
 face rises gradually from the south to the north, and 
 reaches an elevation of about 700 feet near the part 
 where the parish joins the Mearns moor. The climate 
 is moist, and rain is very frequent, and the soil to a 
 great extent unproductive, several large tracts consisting 
 of deep moss, which, at many seasons in the year, is 
 impassable without risk of life. The lower division con- 
 tains most of the population, and the land here produces 
 fair average crops : the higher grounds, bordering on 
 Renfrewshire, are chiefly pastoral, and of excellent qua- 
 lity ; the stock grazed upon them is of a good breed, 
 and in superior condition. The process of draining has 
 been for some time attended to, and much land once 
 entirely useless is now under tillage, and affords adequate 
 returns. Limestone is abundant, and is quarried in 
 several places ; coal has recently been discovered in 
 much larger quantities than were formerly obtained, 
 and iron has also been found in the same locality in 
 considerable abundance, one bed measuring five feet in 
 thickness. The parish contains several small hamlets ; 
 the inhabitants generally dispose of their produce at the 
 markets of Glasgow and Kilmarnock. Coal is procured 
 from the neighbourhood of the latter place, and peat is 
 obtained plentifully from the mosses in the district. An 
 act of parliament was passed in 184", authorizing the 
 construction of a branch of three miles and a half, to 
 Fenwick, by the Glasgow, Kilmarnock, and Ardrossan 
 railway company. The public road from Glasgow to 
 Kilmarnock and Ayr passes through the parish. The 
 annual value of real property in Fenwick is returned at 
 £9366. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Irvine, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in 
 the patronage of the Earl of Glasgow. The minister's 
 stipend is £123, of which a part is received from the 
 exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe of eight acres, 
 valued at £'24 per annum. Fenwick church, seated on 
 the right bank of one of the two streams which intersect 
 the parish, is a plain cruciform structure, built in 1643, 
 and containing between 700 and 800 sittings. There is 
 a place of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod. 
 The parochial school affords instruction in the ordinary 
 branches ; the master has a salary of £'28, with a good 
 house, built in 1805, a rood of garden, and £'20 fees. 
 There is a second school, with an endowment of £10 per 
 annum ; and the parish contains a subscription library. 
 The Earl of Glasgow takes the title of Baron Boyle, of 
 Fenwick, from this place.
 
 FERG 
 
 FERG 
 
 FERGUS, ST., a parish, in the county of Banff, 5 
 miles (N. N. VV.) from Peterhead ; containing 1391 in- 
 habitants. This parish, which is locally situated in 
 Aberdeenshire, was formerly called Langley. It took 
 its present name, in honour of its patron saint, in the 
 year 16 16, when the church was removed from its an- 
 cient site, the downs called the Links of St. Fergus, 
 where it had been erected as a vicarage by the abbot of 
 Aberbrothock. The lands formed part of the great 
 earldom of Buchan till its forfeiture by the Cumyns in 
 1 308 ; they afterwards came into the possession of the 
 ancient family of Cheyne, who built the castle of Inver- 
 ugie, and who, being heritable sheriffs of Banff, wished 
 this property to be placed under their own jurisdiction, 
 for which purpose they obtained an act of the legisla- 
 ture. The Carmelite friary in Aberdeen was founded 
 and endowed by one of this family, Reginald le Cheyne, 
 who secured to it, by deed, £2 annually out of the lauds 
 of Blackwater, in this parish. His son, Sir Reginald 
 Cheyne, was lord chamberlain of Scotland in 1267 ; and 
 another son, named Henry, was bishop of Aberdeen in 
 1281. Sir Reginald was succeeded in his property by a 
 son of the same name, who was made prisoner at the 
 battle of Halidon Hill in 1333, and who died about 1350, 
 leaving two daughters, Mary and Mariot, by the mar- 
 riage of the latter of whom with John de Keith, of 
 Raven's-Craig, the parish of St. Fergus passed into the 
 family of Keith. John de Keith was second son of Sir 
 Edw-ard Keith, marischal of Scotland ; and the issue of 
 his marriage with Mariot Cheyne continued to be a sepa- 
 rate branch of the Keiths until, in 1.53S, the families be- 
 came united by the marriage of William, fourth earl- 
 marischal, with the heiress of Sir William Keith of 
 Inverugie. The property escheated to the crown in 171.5, 
 by the attainder of the then earl, and was sold by the 
 crown to the York Buildings' Company. It was pur- 
 chased, however, from the trustees of the company by 
 George, son of the attainted earl, in I76I ; and in 1*64 
 the family disposed of it to James Ferguson, Esq., one 
 of the senators of the College of Justice, with whose 
 descendants it has since remained. 
 
 The PARISH is five and a half miles in extreme length, 
 and its greatest breadth is three and a half miles. It 
 contains 7S78 acres, and is bounded on the south by the 
 river Ugie, and on the east by the German Ocean. The 
 shore is marked only by one point of any note, called 
 Scotstown Craig ; the beach being generally low and 
 sandy. At a small distance from the coast there are a 
 number of hills, covered with a thick bed of drifted sand 
 overgrown with grass, and which divide the shore from 
 the interior land, and form a natural and efficient ram- 
 part against the drifting of the sands into the country 
 by the violence of the east wind. These hills, varying 
 in breadth, form the fine pasture land known as the 
 Links of St. Fergus, and afford, perhaps, the finest 
 grazing for sheep and young cattle of any downs in 
 Scotland. In the lower part of the parish, to the extent 
 of a mile from the shore, the ground is flat and uniform ; 
 but afterwards it rises towards the western extremity in 
 a succession of graceful undulations, exhibiting the pleas- 
 ing aspect of a well-cultivated surface. The only high 
 land approximating to the character of an eminence is 
 the Castle hill, in the vicinity of Inverugie Castle. The 
 climate, on account of the exposure to the sea, is cold, 
 and the impervious character of the subsoil renders it 
 438 
 
 damp ; yet it is not found to be unhealthy. There are 
 some good springs in the lower lands which yield a con- 
 stant supply of water ; but in the upper part a drought 
 sometimes occurs, especially in the hot summer months. 
 Near the shore the soil is a sandy loam mixed with 
 moss, requiring but little labour for cultivation ; it pro- 
 duces turnips, potatoes, and heavy crops of grain, which, 
 however, is not so fine in quality as that grown on the 
 stronger lands. The middle portion of the parish is a 
 tenacious clay, yielding excellent grain. In the western 
 district the soil is not so good, being chiefly clay and moss, 
 and having not very long ago been a moor. The larger 
 part of the land is arable, scarcely more than a sixth of 
 the parish consisting of pasture, moss, and plantations. 
 The Aberdeenshire and Buchan cattle, which, with their 
 several crosses, formerly prevailed here, have within these 
 few years yielded to a great extent to the Teeswater. 
 The unfitness of the soil generally for the growth of 
 turnips rather discourages the breeding of cattle ; but 
 the easy communication lately opened up by steamer 
 with the London market has stimulated the attempts to 
 overcome this natural obstacle, and the number of o.xen, 
 cows, and sheep is now very considerable. Many im- 
 provements have taken place by the formation of main 
 drains and ditches, the planting of hedges, and the con- 
 struction of various kinds offences ; the farm-buildings, 
 also, are much better than formerly, and the houses on 
 the best farms are generally slated, and the offices tiled. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £6172. 
 The rocks comprise granite, trap, gneiss, greywacke, and 
 quartz, which are to be seen in all kinds of combinations : 
 limestone is also found, frequently mixed with gneiss and 
 granite. There are some tracts of peat-moss, in which 
 remains of oak, hazel, and birch are embedded ; the 
 antlers of full-grown stags have been found, and large 
 quantities of marine testacea. 
 
 In the parish are three mills, at one of which, called 
 Stone mill, there were produced in a recent year 1508 
 sacks of meal, of two and a half hundred-weight each, 
 sent to the London market, 314 forwarded to Shetland, 
 and 200 for home consumption; 613 sacks of flour, and 
 100 sacks of barley, also, were prepared for domestic 
 use. There is a salmon-fishery on the Ugie, but it has 
 been much injured by a sand-bank thrown up by the 
 sea at the mouth of the river, and which prevents the 
 fish from entering, unless the bank happens to be driven 
 back by the force of a land flood. Considerable numbers 
 of black-trout, and the pearl muscle, are found in the 
 river ; but the pearls are of no great value, being dingy 
 and opaque. The neighbouring seas, also, abound' with 
 fine fish, consisting of turbot, sole, ling, dog-fish, whiting, 
 herring, plaice, flounder, cod, and halibut, the most 
 valuable of which, however, are seldom taken, as the 
 fishermen have no nets suitable for the purpose. There 
 is a small village, independently of the kirktown ; but 
 the larger part of the population is scattered throughout 
 the rural districts. The turnpike-road from Fraserburgh 
 to Peterhead intersects the parish from north to south ; 
 and over the Ugie is a bridge for it, built in the latter 
 part of the seventeenth century, and connecting St. Fer- 
 gus with the parish of Peterhead. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Deer, synod of Aberdeen ; patron, the 
 Crown: the stipend of the minister is £217, with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £18 per annum. St. Fergus
 
 FER R 
 
 FE R R 
 
 church, erected in 1763, is a convenient structure, taste- 
 fully decorated in the interior, and having three galleries ; 
 it contains 610 sittings. There is a small meeting-house 
 belonging to the Baptists ; and a parochial school is 
 supported, in which Latin, mathematics, and the usual 
 branches of education are taught, the master receiving 
 a salary of £34 per annum, with about £20 fees. A 
 good parish library was founded in 1829, and a savings' 
 bank in 1824. The chief relic of antiquity is the ruin of 
 Inverugie Castle, formerly the residence of the earls- 
 roarischal of Scotland, and the birthplace of Field- 
 Marshal Keith, who fell at the battle of Hochkirchen in 
 1758 : one of the towers, of great antiquity, is called 
 Cheyne's, but the greater part of the fabric is said to have 
 been erected by the earl who founded Mariscbal College, 
 Aberdeen. The churchyard, on the coast, is a very 
 ancient cemetery, and of such singular interest, partly on 
 account of the loneliness of its situation, that the late 
 Dr. Beattie often expressed a wish to have his remains 
 deposited here. 
 
 FERGUSHILL, a village, in the parish of Kilwin- 
 ning, district of Cunninghame, county of Ayr ; con- 
 taining 279 inhabitants. This village has sprung up 
 within the last few years owing to the extension of coal- 
 mines in its vicinity, the population being principally 
 engaged in the works ; and it has already become one of 
 the chief villages of the parish. 
 
 FERNIE EASTER, a hamlet, in the parish of 
 MoNiMAiL, district of Cupar, county of Fife, 3 miles 
 (VV. by N.) from Cupar ; containing 44 inhabitants. It 
 lies nearly in the centre of the parish ; and in its vicinity 
 is Fernie Castle, which is supposed to have been one of 
 Macduff's castles, and was evidently of great strength. 
 
 FERNIGAIR, a hamlet, in the parish of Hamil- 
 ton, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 1 mile 
 (S. E. by E.) from Hamilton ; containing 74 inhabitants. 
 It is situated in the eastern part of the parish, and on 
 the turnpike-road from Hamilton to Larkhall : the Clyde 
 flows at a short distance from the village. 
 
 FERRYDEN, a village, in the parish of Craig, 
 county of Forfar ; containing 921 inhabitants. This 
 village is situated on the south bank of the South Esk 
 river, immediately opposite the harbour of Montrose, 
 and is a prosperous place, with a rapidly increasing 
 population, chiefly fishermen and their families. Be- 
 tween twenty and thirty boats are engaged in the white- 
 fishery alone, which here consists principally of cod, 
 haddock, and skate, all of them taken in great quantity; 
 and many salmon are also caught at the mouth of the 
 Esk. The various kinds of fish from this quarter largely 
 supply the Edinburgh and London markets. There is a 
 good harbour, with a safe roadstead ; and here, pre- 
 viously to the erection of bridges higher up the river, 
 was a ferry to Montrose. In the village is a school, sup- 
 ported by an endowment bequeathed by a benevolent 
 lady, lately deceased. 
 
 FERRYPORT-ON-CRAIG, a parish, in the district 
 of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 1 1 miles (N. E. by N.) 
 from Cupar ; containing 1741 inhal)itants, of whom 1556 
 are in the village. This place formed part of the ancient 
 lands of Craig, belonging to Archbishop Sharp of St. 
 Andrew's, who, by authority of the pope, granted them 
 on lease to the Scotts of Balwearie in Fifeshire, from 
 whom, to distinguish them from others in the county, of 
 the same name, they received the appellation of Scots- 
 439 
 
 craig, which they still retain. The name of the village is 
 obviously derived from the establishment of a ferry over 
 the Tay to the opposite shore at Broughty, to which 
 ferry, previously to the erection of a pier for their better 
 accommodation, passengers had access only by means of 
 a platform of timber extending to the boats from the 
 rugged rocks which girt the coast. The lands are sup- 
 posed to have been part of the parish of Leuchars pre- 
 viously to the year 1606, when, by act of James VI., 
 they were erected into a distinct parish : one of the fields 
 is still called the Chapel, probably from the existence of 
 a chapel of ease to the mother church prior to the sepa- 
 ration. There was a castle at this place, but at what 
 time or by whom it was founded does not appear : from 
 the style of the building, as far as can be ascertained 
 from the small portions of it still remaining, it seems to 
 have been adapted for the use of cannon, and to have 
 been erected to defend this pass of the river, in conjunc- 
 tion with the castle of Broughty in Forfarshire. 
 
 The parish is bounded on the north by the river Tay, 
 which washes its coast for nearly five miles before join- 
 ing the German Ocean. It differs greatly in breadth, not 
 exceeding in the widest part a mile and a half, and com- 
 prises 2600 acres, of which 1400 are arable, 120 wood- 
 land and plantations, and the remainder rough pasture 
 and waste. The surface is abruptly varied, being in the 
 eastern parts flat and low, and in others rising into ridges 
 of craggy rock. Its rugged aspect has under recent im- 
 provements been considerably softened, and many rucks 
 near the village, which is situated on the shore, have been 
 removed ; but to the west the lands are still precipitous, 
 and very irregular. Except the Tay, there is no stream 
 of any consequence ; but numerous springs in the higher 
 grounds, descending to the low lands, afford an abundant 
 supply of excellent water. In the lower parts of the pa- 
 rish the soil is a light loam, resting on a bed of sand ; 
 and in the higher, a rich black loam, on a substratum of 
 whinstone. The agricultural district is under good cul- 
 tivation, and extremely productive ; the crops are barley, 
 oats, rye, and wheat, with potatoes, of which consider- 
 able quantities are raised for the London market, turnips, 
 and the usual green crops. Flax was formerly grown to 
 a good extent, but for many years its culture has been 
 totally discontinued. The pastures maintain large num- 
 bers of sheep and cattle, the former chiefly a cross be- 
 tween the Cheviot and Leicestershire breeds, and the 
 latter a mixture of the Fife, Angus, and Ayrshire. There 
 is a small undivided common of about twenty acres, on 
 which all the inhabitants have a right of pasturage. The 
 woods consist mainly of larch and oak, aud the latter, 
 though of recent introduction, appears to thrive well. 
 The farm-buildings are in general substantial and com- 
 modious, and some, of more modern erection, are of a 
 very superior order ; but little progress has hitherto been 
 made in inclosing the lands, which, with the exception of 
 a few fields, are wholly open. The annual value of real 
 property in Ferryport-on-Craig is £3191. 
 
 The principal proprietor in the parish is the owner of 
 Scotscraig, whose mansion, erected in 1807, is a spacious 
 structure, beautifully situated in grounds tastefully laid 
 out, and embellished with plantations. Ferryport village 
 consists of more than 300 neatly-built houses, chiefly one 
 story in height, with a few of two stories, and some 
 larger houses of recent erection, which are handsomely 
 built, and roofed with blue slate. The shore has been
 
 FETL 
 
 FETL 
 
 greatly improved by the levelling of various eminences 
 that impeded the communication between the village and 
 the river. There are two piers at the ferry, at the larger 
 of which, vessels laden with coal and other necessaries 
 land their cargoes for the supply of the neighbourhood, 
 and grain, potatoes, and other agricultural produce are 
 shipped for the London market. In 1846 the Edinburgh, 
 Perth, and Dundee railway company were empowered to 
 purchase, and in 184* were empowered to improve, the 
 ferry across the Tay. There is an extensive salmon- 
 fishery belonging to the proprietor of Scotscraig, and 
 extending along the coast for the whole length of the 
 parish ; it formerly produced an annual rental of £2000, 
 but since the disuse of stake-nets, which were formerly 
 employed, it yields only about £600. Many of the inha- 
 bitants of the village and parish are occupied in hand- 
 loom weaving for the manufacturers of Dundee, to which 
 they devote their chief attention during the winter 
 months, in the summer resuming their agricultural la- 
 bours. A fair, at one time very numerously attended, is 
 held in the village on the first Tuesday in June (O. S.), 
 and resorted to by a few dealers in general merchandise. 
 Facility of communication is afforded by the Dundee line 
 of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. A library 
 has been established in the village, and there is a savings' 
 bank, opened in 1836, which has proved very successful. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of St. Andrew's, synod of Fife ; patron, the 
 Crown : the minister's stipend is £159. 13., with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £42 per annum. Ferryport church, 
 rebuilt in 1825, is a neat and substantial edifice situated 
 in the village, and adapted for a congregation of 900 
 persons. There are also places of worship for members 
 of the Free Church and the United Presbyterian Synod. 
 The parochial school affords an extensive course of in- 
 struction ; the master has a salary of £30, with £19 fees, 
 and a good house and garden. Five free scholars are 
 taught by the master in consideration of a bequest for 
 that purpose by William Dalgleish, Esq. ; they are no- 
 minated by the proprietor of Scotscraig and the incum- 
 bent of the parish, and remain in the school for five 
 years. There are also several Sabbath-evening schools, 
 supported by contributions collected at the church. 
 Some vestiges of the Archbishop of St. Andrew's palace 
 here are yet remaining. 
 
 FETLAR and NORTH YELL, a parish, in the county 
 of Shetland ; containing 1745 inhabitants, of whom 
 761 are in Fetlar, 36 miles (N. by E.) from Lerwick. 
 This parish, which is situated nearly at the northern 
 extremity of the Shetland Isles, consists of the island of 
 Fetlar and the northern part of that of Yell. The for- 
 mer is bounded on the north by the channel separating 
 it from the islands of Unst and Uyea, on the south by 
 the wide channel which divides it from Whalsey island 
 and the Mainland, on the east by the German Ocean, 
 and on the west by Colgrave Sound, separating it from 
 the island of Yell. North Yell is bounded on the west 
 and north by the Northern Ocean, and on the east by 
 the firth called Blue-Mull Sound, which divides it from 
 the island of Unst. Fetlar measures about seven miles 
 in length and four in breadth, comprising 786f merks 
 of land under cultivation (a merk being about three- 
 quarters of an acre), and between 10,000 and 12,000 
 acres which, with the exception of 1200, are undivided 
 common. North Yell is six miles long and five broad, 
 440 
 
 and contains 634 merks of cultivated, and from 12,000 
 to 15,000 acres of uncultivated land. 
 
 The situation is bleak, and the surface hilly ; but 
 there are no lofty elevations, the highest grounds not 
 rising more than 300 feet above the level of the sea, and 
 being, in each district, alternated with tolerably fertile 
 valleys. Both the islands are singularly irregular in 
 figure, and the coast is indented with fissures, creeks, 
 and bays of various extent. Of the last the principal in 
 Fetlar are those of Aith, Tresta, Strand, Mow ick, Funzie, 
 Gruting voe, and Urie bay, where a kind of pier has 
 lately been erected ; but none of these are considered 
 safe harbours. North Yell, in this respect, has much the 
 advantage : the bays of Basta voe and Cullivoe form ex- 
 cellent retreats and landing-places ; besides which, it 
 has the bays of Papal and Gloup voe. Colgrave Sound, 
 encompassing Fetlar from south-west to north-west, is 
 a rapid and dangerous channel, about nine miles across 
 in the widest, and three miles in the narrowest, part. 
 Blue-Mull Sound measures in the narrowest part about 
 three-quarters of a mile across, and the sound between 
 the islands of Fetlar and Unst is from four to five miles 
 broad : in both these channels, but especially in that of 
 Blue-Mull, the tide runs with great force, and the passage 
 is often hazardous. The rocks on the coast are fre- 
 quently covered with sea-fowl ; wild pigeons are nume- 
 rous, and flocks of wild swans often visit the islands. 
 There are many small lakes, abounding with trout, the 
 largest of which is a lake in Fetlar, near the manse, 
 about three-quarters of a mile in length and a quarter in 
 breadth. 
 
 The inhabitants are employed in agriculture and fish- 
 ing, the latter occupation engaging most of their atten- 
 tion; In Fetlar the soil is of various descriptions, sandy, 
 clayey, marly, and all of it shallow, with very little peat : 
 North Yell, except the patches cultivated along the shore, 
 is one great peat-moss. Each district produces good 
 oats and potatoes ; barley is cultivated only to a very 
 limited extent, and wheat is rarely to be seen, owing to 
 the want of inclosures to protect these kinds of grain, 
 and of sun duly to ripen them. The ground is generally 
 turned with a spade, the number of ploughs being very 
 small ; and the state of agriculture throughout the two 
 districts indicates strongly the want of resources, and of 
 much more attention and skill, to place it on a respect- 
 able footing. In North Yell many plots of common 
 ground have recently been brought under cultivation, 
 and a few in Fetlar. Sir Arthur Nicolson lately com- 
 menced an improvement farm. The sheep and cattle 
 are mostly of the native breed, small but hardy, and 
 they appear to thrive better than any other kinds : a 
 mixed breed of sheep, introduced some time since by 
 Sir Arthur Nicolson, has not been found well suited to 
 the climate, and a few cows of a larger growth, which have 
 been tried, have in the same manner proved unequal to 
 meet the severity of the district. The ponies bred are of 
 the same size, vigorous spirit, and untiring strength, as 
 those in the other isles of Shetland. In this parish the 
 rocks comprise mica-slate, quartz, chlorite-slate, gneiss, 
 clay-slate, and serpentine. Chromate of iron, now sup- 
 posed to be exhausted, used for a long time to be occa- 
 sionally quarried in the island of Fetlar. With the 
 common stone from the same locality, a mansion-house 
 has been built by Sir Arthur Nicolson, and another by 
 Mr. Smith ; and quarries in the island of Yell have sup-
 
 FETT 
 
 FETT 
 
 plied a material for the erection of the houses of Gloup, 
 Greenbank, and Midbrake, the dressings, however, being 
 of freestone brought from Lerwick. Sir Arthur has also 
 erected au observatory, on a mound in the immediate 
 neighbourhood of his mansion. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £806. The ling-fishery occu- 
 pies much of the time of the inhabitants ; in addition to 
 which, tusk, cod, saith, and other kinds are taken nearly 
 all the year round : the herring-fishery, formerly consi- 
 derable, has in a great measure failed of late years. The 
 fish caught in winter are salted, and preserved in vats 
 till spring, when they are dried and exported to Leith ; 
 those taken in summer are preserved in the same manner, 
 and sent, not only to the market of Leith, but also to 
 Ireland and Spain : the produce of the herring-fishery, 
 which is carried on in August and September, is for- 
 warded, when cured, to Leith and to Ireland. The sta- 
 tions for the ling-fishery are, Funzie, on the eastern side 
 of Fetlar, and Gloup, on the north side of Yell, towards 
 the Northern Ocean. Urie, Strand, and Aith banks, 
 in Fetlar; and Cullivoe and Bayanne, in North Yell, are 
 or were stations for the curing of herrings. A large 
 quantity of skate, halibut, haddock, sillock, piltock, and 
 whiting, is also taken, furnishing the inhabitants with a 
 considerable portion of their subsistence : there are 
 oysters at Basta voe, and a good supply of several other 
 kinds of shell-fish. The parish is entirely destitute of 
 conveyances and roads ; and the intercourse with Ler- 
 wick, the only market-town of the Shetlands, is so un- 
 certain and dangerous, that, although the post-office 
 in North Yell communicates twice a week with that 
 place in fair weather, letters are often delayed for a long 
 time on their route. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Burravoe, synod of Shetland, and the pa- 
 tronage is vested in the Earl of Zetland. The minister's 
 stipend is £1S0, including the sum for communion ele- 
 ments ; with a manse, and a glebe valued at £9 per annum. 
 There are two churches, both very near the sea-shore ; 
 that in Fetlar was rebuilt in 1790, and accommodates 
 269 persons, and that in North Yell was built in 1832, 
 and contains sittings for 390. The Wesleyans have a 
 place of worship in Fetlar. The parochial school is in 
 North Yell, and affords instruction in reading, writing, 
 arithmetic, book-keeping, and navigation ; the master 
 has the minimum salary, and receives a few pounds in 
 fees. In Fetlar is a school of much longer standing than 
 the parochial school, supported by the Society for Propa- 
 gating Christian Knowledge ; the master teaches the 
 same branches as those taught in the other school, and 
 receives a salary of £15, and a small amount in fees. 
 There is a small subscription library. The antiquities 
 comprehend the remains of several chapels and forts, a 
 Roman camp at Snawburgh, several fonts which have 
 been dug up at Aithsness, and a few urns containing 
 ashes and bones. 
 
 FETTERANGUS, a village, in the parish of Old 
 Deer, county of Banff, 1^ mile (N.N. E.) from Deer; 
 containing 225 inhabitants. This place is locally situ- 
 ated in the shire of Aberdeen, and is a modern village, 
 erected on the estate of Mr. Ferguson of Pitfour : the 
 population is employed chiefly in the linen manufacture. 
 A little east of the village runs the great road from 
 Fraserburgh to Aberdeen, which intersects the parish in 
 a direction north and south. 
 Vol. I.— 441 
 
 FETTERCAIRN, a burgh of barony and a parish, 
 in the county of Kincardine, 15^ miles (W. S. W.) from 
 Stonehaven; containing 1*93 inhabitants, of whom 3*2 
 are in the burgh. This place is supposed to have de- 
 rived its name from several cairns (on the face or ascent 
 of one of the mountains by which it is bounded on the 
 north) raised over the remains of the warriors who fell 
 in battles which, according to tradition, were fought in 
 this pass of the Grampians. The only event of historical 
 importance connected with the parish, is the murder of 
 Kenneth III., King of Scotland, which took place in the 
 castle of Fenella about a mile westward of the village. 
 The details of this occurrence, though variously recorded 
 by historians, ascribe the murder to Fenella, the pro- 
 prietor of the castle, in resentment of the death of her 
 son, whom that monarch had sentenced to execution for 
 rebellion. Fetfercairn was formerly the property of the 
 Middletons, of whom John, the zealous adherent of 
 Charles I. and Charles II., was after the Restoration 
 created Earl of Middleton and Viscount Fettercairn ; 
 and the estate continued in the possession of that family 
 till 1777, when it was purchased by Sir John Stuart, 
 Bart., maternal grandfather of the present proprietor. 
 
 Though possessing the privileges of a burgh of barony, 
 the village is not distinguished by any features of im- 
 portance. There are two libraries, one of which, of 
 about 500 volumes, is the property of the Fettercairn 
 Club, and the other, containing nearly an equal number, 
 is parochial, and supported by subscription. At Nether- 
 mill, adjoining the village, is a distillery of whisky from 
 malt only ; and at Arnhall, on the banks of the North 
 Esk, is a mill for carding and spinning wool, and manu- 
 facturing coarse woollen-cloths. The post-office, under 
 that of Montrose, has a regular delivery ; and facility of 
 communication is afforded by good roads, kept in repair 
 by statute labour, and which pass through the village, 
 and intersect the parish in various directions. The 
 PARISH, which is situated in the western portion of the 
 county, on the south of the Grampian hills, is bounded 
 on the south-west by the North Esk river for about 
 three miles, and is nearly eight miles in length and four 
 and a half in breadth, comprising an area of 13,000 
 acres, of which 7500 are arable, 1800 woodland and 
 plantations, and the remainder pasture, moss, and waste. 
 Its surface rises gradually, in gentle undulations, to the 
 base of the Grampian hills, of which the highest within 
 the parish has not an elevation of more than I6OO feet 
 above the level of the sea. There are numerous springs, 
 some of them with a chalybeate property ; but the only 
 river is the North Esk, over which is the romantic bridge 
 of Gannachy, connecting the parish with that of Edzell, 
 a structure of one arch thirty feet in height and fifty- 
 two feet span, springing from two precipitous rocks : it 
 was built in 1732 by Mr. Black, of Edzell. 
 
 The soil is various, in some parts alluvial, in some a 
 stiff clay, and in others a deep moss alternated with 
 gravel ; the crops are wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, and 
 turnips. The system of agriculture has been consi- 
 derably improved under the auspices of the Fettercairn 
 Club, who hold their meetings in the village : tracts of 
 the waste land have been reclaimed by draining ; the 
 farm-buildings are comfortable and substantial, the 
 lands well inclosed, and on most of the farms threshing- 
 mills have been erected. Much attention is paid to the 
 improvement of live stock. The sheep, with the e.\cep- 
 
 3 L
 
 FETT 
 
 FETT 
 
 tion of a few Cheviots, are generally of the black-faced 
 breed; and the black- cattle, of the Angusshire, with 
 some of the Aberdeenshire and Ayrshire. Considerable 
 numbers of swine are also reared, all of the Chinese 
 breed. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £9107- The plantations, which are extensive, consist 
 of the usual varieties, the most conspicuous being ash, 
 beech, and fir ; they are under careful management, and 
 in a thriving state. The principal substrata are red 
 freestone, whinstone, and limestone ; and porcelain clay 
 of fine quality is found on the banks of a small burn, at 
 Balnakettle. Fettercairn House is an ancient edifice, to 
 which large additions have been lately made by Sir John 
 Stuart Forbes, Bart., the proprietor. Fasque is a spa- 
 cious house in the castellated style, beautifully situated 
 on an eminence, in diversified grounds, in which is a fine 
 sheet of water twenty acres in extent, which, with the 
 stately approach to the house, was formed by the pre- 
 sent owner. Sir John Gladstone, Bart. The Burn House 
 is a handsome modern mansion, on the banks of the 
 North Esk, in a richly-planted demesne, tastefully laid 
 out in walks, and commanding much picturesque scenery. 
 Balbegno Castle is an ancient and spacious building, on 
 the parapet of which are various sculptures and the date 
 1509 ; the interior contains a noble hall, whose lofty 
 roof of stone is richly groined, and divided into sixteen 
 compartments, in which are emblazoned the armorial 
 bearings of the sixteen peers of Scotland. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Fordoun, synod of Angus 
 and Mearns. The minister's stipend is £232, with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum ; patron, 
 the Crown. Fettercairn church, erected in 1804, and 
 enlarged in 1839, is a handsome structure, with a tower, 
 and spire rising to the height of 104 feet ; it is beauti- 
 fully situated, and contains 1000 sittings, a number 
 which may be easily augmented. The members of the 
 Free Church have a place of worship. The parochial 
 school is well conducted ; the master has a salary of 
 £34, with a house and garden, and the fees average 
 about £30 per annum, to which may be added £1. 15., 
 the rent of a bequest in land. A female school in the 
 village is supported by Sir John Stuart Forbes, who 
 provides a school-room and house rent-free for the mis- 
 tress, to whom he pays a salary, in addition to the school 
 fees. An almshouse has been built by Sir John Glad- 
 stone for eight people, to each of whom he allows a room 
 and garden. Dr. Ramsay, of Barbadoes, bequeathed the 
 sum of £500; Provost Christie, of Montrose, £50; James 
 Black, the builder of Gannachy bridge, 200 merks; 
 George Cooper, of Slateford, £20 ; R. Valentine, of Bo- 
 gindollo, £50 ; Anthony Glen, of Luthermuir, £20 ; and 
 James Smith, of Fettercairn, several houses ; all for the 
 relief of the poor of the parish. In the village is pre- 
 served the ancient cross of Kincardine, an octagonal 
 column to which is an ascent of six circular stone steps : 
 on the capital are the arms of John, Earl of Middleton, 
 with his coronet and initials. Greencairn, the supposed 
 residence of Dame Fenella, is now a heap of shapeless 
 ruins. 
 
 FETTERESSO, a parish, in the county of Kincar- 
 dine ; containing, with about two-thirds of the town of 
 Stonehaven, 5212 inhabitants. This place, the name of 
 which, in the Celtic language, is perhaps descriptive of 
 the marshy nature of its lands, is of very remote anti- 
 442 
 
 quity, and is distinguished as the site of a station occu- 
 pied either by the Caledonians or the Romans. The 
 latter people, having under Agricola subdued the south- 
 ern portion of the country, advanced with an army of 
 26,000 men towards the north, and near the Grampian 
 mountains, and probably in this neighbourhood, en- 
 countered the Caledonians under Galgacus their king, 
 who, with 30,000 men, defending his country against 
 the invaders, routed their ninth legion, but was finally 
 subdued. The remains of this station, which inclosed 
 an area of seventy-one acres, and was defended by a 
 vallum and fosse, are still nearly entire ; and till within 
 the few last years, there were existing some remains of 
 another camp near Stonehaven, about three or four miles 
 distant from the former. The ancient forest of Craigie, 
 and subsequently the whole of the lordship of Cowie, in 
 this parish, together with numerous other lands in the 
 counties of Aberdeen and Kincardine, were granted by 
 Robert Bruce to his steady adherent Sir Alexander 
 Eraser, who signalised himself at Bannockburn, and was 
 killed in the battle of Dupplin in 1332. Upon his death 
 the principal lands descended to his son, whose only 
 daughter and heiress conveyed them by marriage to Sir 
 WilUam de Keith, great marischal of Scotland, and an- 
 cestor of the family of the earls-marischal. The chief 
 residence of this noble family in this part of the country 
 was for many ages the castle of Fetteresso, in which the 
 Pretender, after his landing at Peterhead in 1715, was 
 for some time hospitably entertained. On the attainder 
 of the last earl, the estates were forfeited to the Crown ; 
 and in the year 1782, the castle and property of Fetter- 
 esso were bought by the late Admiral Duff, in whose fa- 
 mily they still remain. A portion of the lands, now the 
 barony of Ury, was inherited by Sir William, a second 
 son of Sir Alexander Eraser, who sold it in 1413 to 
 William de Hay, lord of Errol, and constable of Scot- 
 land ; and it was subsequently purchased by the Maris- 
 chal family, who in 1647 sold it to Colonel David Bar- 
 clay, whose descendant is the present proprietor. 
 
 The parish, which is bounded on the east by the 
 German Ocean, is about ten miles in length and be- 
 tween five and six in breadth, comprising an area of 
 24,914 acres, whereof about 10,000 are arable, 2000 
 woodland and plantations, and the remainder meadow, 
 pasture, and waste. Its surface is abruptly varied, 
 though not rising into mountainous elevation ; and the 
 scenery embraces much diversity of character, in some 
 parts enriched with thriving plantations and being pleas- 
 ingly picturesque, in others dreary and barren. The 
 river Carron, which separates the parish from that of 
 Dunnottar, forms its southern boundary for about five 
 miles, and falls into the sea at Stonehaven ; whilst the 
 Cowie, which flows through the parish in a direction 
 nearly parallel, falls into the sea at the small bay of 
 Cowie, to the north. There are also two rivulets, the 
 Muchalls and the Elsick, which, though generally incon- 
 siderable, are sometimes swollen by the accession of nu- 
 merous streamlets, and inundate the adjacent lands. 
 
 The SOIL is extremely various ; in the east and south, 
 rich and fertile ; in other places, of very inferior quality ; 
 and in some parts wholly unprofitable. The system of 
 agriculture was much improved by the late Mr. Barclay, 
 who by great perseverance brought it to its present state 
 of perfection : in some places the lands have been care- 
 fully drained. The crops comprise oats and barley, with
 
 FETT 
 
 FIFE 
 
 some wheat, which is not however in extensive cultiva- 
 tion, and turnips, of which very considerable quantities 
 are grown. Several portions of land are let in small lots 
 annually, for raising potatoes. The pastures are exten- 
 sive, and there are herds of cattle kept, chiefly of the 
 Angus breed, with some of the Teeswater or short- 
 horned : several hundred head of cattle are fattened an- 
 nually, and sent to the different markets in the district, 
 and to London and other distant parts by steamers 
 from Aberdeen. In this parish the horses are chiefly 
 reared for agricultural uses, and but little attention has 
 been paid to the improvement of the breed. The sheep 
 are of various kinds, part of them of the Leicestershire 
 breed ; they are mostly fed upon turnips on the several 
 farms, but some are pastured on the hills, though not to 
 so great an extent as formerly. Dairy-farming is well 
 managed, and large quantities of butter, cheese, poultry, 
 and eggs are forwarded to Aberdeen and Stonehaven. 
 The farm-buildings have been much improved, and on 
 most of the farms are threshing-mills, many of which 
 are driven by water, and one by steam-power. The 
 woods and plantations are extensive ; the former, though 
 in parts unproductive from the nature of the subsoil, 
 still contain a good deal of valuable timber, and the 
 latter, with the exception of the larches on some parti- 
 cular lands, are generally thriving. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £19,209. Fetteresso Castle, 
 formerly the seat of the Marischal family, beautifully 
 situated on the north bank of the Carron, was partly 
 rebuilt by the late Mr. Duff ; it is a spacious mansion, 
 surrounded by an extensive and well-wooded park, in 
 which is some stately timber, and the gardens and plea- 
 sure-grounds are tastefully laid out. Unj, originally 
 built by the Hay family, is situated on a steep acclivity 
 of the river Cowie ; it is of moderate extent, but of great 
 strength, with vaulted roofs of stone. The park is ex- 
 tensive, and contains many trees of venerable growth, 
 and some thriving modern plantations ; the grounds are 
 well disposed, and the gardens, formed on terraces, add 
 greatly to the beauty of this seat. Nelherley and Much- 
 alls are handsome mansions : the latter, a fine old edi- 
 fice, for ages the residence of the Burnet family, stands 
 on an eminence near the sea. Elsick is also an ancient 
 mansion, formerly belonging to the Bannermans. Cowie 
 is a small but handsome house. 
 
 There are several fishing-villages on the coast ; namely, 
 Cowie, where eight boats are engaged, each with a crew 
 of five men ; Sketteraw, employing seven, and Stra- 
 nathro, having four boats. At these stations are small 
 harbours, well adapted for the purpose. The chief fish 
 taken off the coast are haddock, cod, and ling, of which 
 great quantities, especially of haddock, are dried and 
 smoked, and sent for the supply of the neighbouring 
 towns, and by steamers from Aberdeen to London. The 
 inhabitants of these villages are during the season em- 
 ployed in the herring-fishery, in which about fifteen 
 boats are usually engaged. There are likewise some 
 salmon-fisheries in the parish, let to tenants whose ag- 
 gregate rents, however, do not exceed £100 per annum ; 
 the greater number of the salmon are forwarded to Lou- 
 don. Woollen-cloth for domestic use is woven by 
 several families in the parish, and there is a small mill 
 for spinning the yarn ; many of the females, also, are 
 employed in knitting woollen-hose for the manufacturers 
 of Aberdeen. Facility of communication is afforded by 
 443 
 
 good roads, of which the turnpike-road from Aberdeen 
 to the south passes through the parish, and by the Aber- 
 deen and Edinburgh steam-boats, which touch here on 
 their way. Of late, also, there has been the advantage 
 of railway communication, the newly-opened Aberdeen 
 line intersecting the parish. Fairs, chiefly for cattle, are 
 held at Stonehaven and Muchalls frequently. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Fordoun, synod of Angus 
 and Mearns. The minister's stipend is about £200, 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £16 per annum ; 
 patron, the Crown. The present church, erected in 
 1813, on a site near Stonehaven, is a handsome struc- 
 ture containing 1400 sittings : some remains exist of the 
 ancient church, to which is attached an extensive ceme- 
 tery, still used. There is a chapel of ease at Cookney, 
 on the lands of Muchalls, a neat building with 700 sit- 
 tings, the minister of which derives an income from the 
 seat-rents ; and on the same property is an episcopal 
 chapel. Two parochial schools are maintained, one in 
 the northern, and one in the southern district of the 
 parish ; the master of the former has a salary of £34, 
 with fees amounting to £20 per annum, and a house, and 
 the master of the latter a salary of £17, and £10 fees. 
 A school was established at Cairn Hill by the Rev. Dr. 
 Morison, who endowed it with a house and garden for 
 the master, and the interest of £100. The poor have 
 the proceeds of some charitable bequests, among which 
 is a legacy of property supposed to be worth £500, by 
 two females of the name of Duns. There are Druidical 
 remains in several parts of the parish. Various pieces 
 of ancient armour, chariot wheels, and other relics have 
 been found at Kempstone Hill, the supposed field of 
 battle between the Caledonians under Galgacus, and the 
 Romans ; and in the vicinity of the camp near Stone- 
 haven, sepulchral urns were not long since discovered. 
 A tumulus on the lands of R. W. Duff, Esq., is said to 
 have been erected over the remains of Malcolm I. ; and 
 at no great distance there were discovered, in 1837, a 
 skeleton, au urn about twenty-eight inches in circum- 
 ference and six inches in depth, and more than 100 jet 
 beads, all in a tomb about three feet in length and two 
 feet wide. On the summit of a rock near the sea, at 
 Cowie, are some remains of an ancient building thought 
 to have been a castle ; there are also some picturesque 
 remains of an old chapel at Cowie, and the place would 
 appear to have been at one time of some importance. 
 
 FIARAY ISLE, in the parish of Barra, county of 
 Inverness. It is one of the Hebrides, lies about a mile 
 northward of Barra, and is uninhabited. 
 
 FIDREY ISLE, in the parish of Dirleton, county 
 of Haddington. This is a small and beautiful island, 
 at the mouth of the Firth of Forth, about half a mile 
 distant from the coast, and opposite to Dirleton. On 
 the isle are the ruins of a building, an ancient chapel, 
 or a lazaretto for the sick, which was dedicated to St. 
 Nicholas. 
 
 FIFE-KEITH, a village, in the parish of Keith, 
 county of Banff; containing 578 inhabitants. This 
 village lies on the banks of the Isla, adjoining to and 
 opposite Old Keith, and is of very recent origin, having 
 been commenced by Lord Fife, from whom it takes its 
 name, about 1817. It is connected by two bridges over 
 the river with Old and New Keith, the three places 
 being now considered as one town. — See Keith. 
 
 3 L2
 
 FIFE 
 
 FIFE 
 
 FIFESHIRE, a maritime county in the east of Scot- 
 land, bounded on the north by the river Tay, on the 
 east by the German Ocean, on the south by the Firth 
 of Forth, and on the west by the counties of Perth, 
 Kinross, and Clackmannan. It hes between 56° 3' and 
 56° 25' (N. Lat.),and 2° 35' and 3° 38' (W. Long.), and 
 is about 48 miles in length and 18 in extreme breadth, 
 comprising an area of 504 square miles, or 322,560 
 acres ; 30,548 houses, of which 29,036 are inhabited ; 
 and containing a population of 140,140, of whom 65,715 
 are males and 74,425 females. This county anciently 
 formed part of the extensive district of Ross, which 
 derived its name from its peninsular shape, and included 
 the present counties of Kinross and Clackmannan, with 
 portions of the counties of Perth and Stirling, all under 
 one common jurisdiction. The lands of Clackmannan 
 were first separated from this district and erected into 
 a distinct county ; and subsequently, in 1425, that por- 
 tion forming the head of the peninsula was made a 
 county under the appellation of Kinross. The remain- 
 der, including a small part previously belonging to 
 Perthshire, almost entirely constitutes the modern 
 county of Fife, the name of which is of obscure and 
 doubtful origin. Originally inhabited by the ancient 
 Caledonians, the district became subject to the Romans, 
 who penetrated into its most secluded retreats, and sub- 
 sequently to the Picts ; but the particular details of its 
 history during these distant periods are not distinctly 
 recorded. 
 
 After the subjugation of the Picts, and the union of 
 the two kingdoms under Kenneth XL, that monarch, 
 in acknowledgment of the eminent services rendered to 
 him by Macduff, a powerful chieftain who had contri- 
 buted greatly to his victory, conferred upon him all the 
 lands he had conquered from the Picts. These extended 
 from Fifeness to Clackmannan, and from the rivers Tay 
 and Erne on the north to the river Forth on the south ; 
 and of this territory the king also appointed him here- 
 ditary thane. Though occasionally subject to Danish 
 incursions, the district, from its central situation be- 
 tween the northern and southern divisions of the king- 
 dom, enjoyed almost undisturbed tranquillity under its 
 thanes, of whom Duncan Macduff, having aided in the 
 destruction of the usurper Macbeth, and in the resto- 
 ration of Malcolm Canmore, was created Earl of Fife 
 by that sovereign, and invested with many privileges, 
 which were made hereditary in his family. Among 
 these the most important were, the placing of the Scot- 
 tish kings in the chair of state at the ceremony of their 
 coronation, the honour of leading the van of the royal 
 army, and the liberty of compromising for manslaugh- 
 ter by the payment of a fine proportioned to the rauk 
 of the victim. This last immunity was commemorated 
 by the erection of a stone pillar called Macduff's cross, 
 a certain area around which afforded sanctuary. After 
 the death of Duncan, the twelfth earl, Murdoch, Duke 
 of Albany, by marriage with his only daughter, suc- 
 ceeded to the earldom of Fife, which, on his attainder in 
 1425, reverted to the crown. It was subsequently re- 
 vived as an Irish peerage in the person of William Duff 
 of Braco, who was created Baron Braco of Kilbride, and 
 Earl of Fife, in 1759 ; James, the second earl, was 
 made Baron Fife in the peerage of Great Britain in 
 1790, and the title is now vested in his descendant, the 
 present earl. 
 444 
 
 In times of episcopacy the county was included within 
 the archdiocese of St. Andrew's ; it is at present in the 
 synod of Fife, and comprises the presbyteries of St. 
 Andrew's, Cupar, Kirkcaldy, and Dunfermline, and 
 about sixty parishes. The shire is divided into the 
 districts of Cupar, Kirkcaldy, St. Andrew's, and Dun- 
 fermline ; a sheriff's court is held at Cupar for the three 
 first-named, and one at Dunfermline for the last-men- 
 tioned district. The justices of the peace hold petty 
 sessions in all the districts, their decisions being 
 subject to revision by the courts of quarter-sessions, 
 which are held at Cupar, the county town. Besides the 
 county town, Fife contains the royal burghs of St. An- 
 drew's, Dunfermline, Inverkeithing, Burntisland, Kirk- 
 caldy, Kinghorn, Pittenweem, East and West Anstru- 
 ther, Dysart, Kilrenny, Crail, Auchtermuchty, Falkland, 
 and Earlsferry ; the towns of Leven, Largo, Limekilns, 
 Pathhead, Ferryport-on-Craig, Newport, Aberdour, Mark- 
 inch, and Newburgh, with numerous smaller towns 
 and villages. Several of the towns have been royal 
 residences, and many of them are sea-ports with tole- 
 rable harbours at high-water ; the best harbour is that 
 at Burntisland, where a pier was built in 1844, at which 
 steamers and other vessels may laud goods and pas- 
 sengers at all times of the tide. The principal port of 
 the county is Kirkcaldy. At Dysart is a wet-dock, in 
 which vessels are always afloat. Under the act of the 
 2nd of William IV., Fife returns one member to the 
 imperial parliament ; and there are also two districts 
 of burghs within the county, each of which sends a re- 
 presentative ; while the burghs of Dunfermline and In- 
 verkeithing join with those of Culross, Stirling, and 
 South Queensferry, in other counties, in sending another 
 representative. 
 
 The SURFACE, which is pleasingly diversified with 
 gentle undulations, and in some parts with hills of lofty 
 elevation, is separated by ranges of hills into several 
 beautiful and extensive vales, the principal of which, 
 called the Howe of Fife, is watered by the river Eden, 
 described below. The chief hills are the East and West 
 Lomond, the former having an elevation of 1260, and 
 the latter of 12S0 feet above the level of the sea ; the 
 Largo Law is 1020 feet in height, and the Kelly Law 
 800 feet. Most of the hills are covered with verdure 
 almost to the summit. Among the streams are the 
 Leven, the Eden, the Orr, and the Lochty : the river 
 Leven issues from the lake of that name, in the county 
 of Kinross, and flowing through a richly-cultivated 
 strath, falls into the Firth of Forth at the town of 
 Leven. The river Eden has its source in the confluence 
 of several small streams in the parish of Strathraiglo, 
 and taking an eastern direction, runs by the town of 
 Cupar, and joins the German Ocean at St. Andrew's 
 bay. The river Orr rises in a lake now drained, and 
 pursuing a south-eastern course, in which it is joined by 
 streams from Loch Fittie and Loch Gellie, and by the 
 river Lochty, flows into the Leven near Cameron Bridge. 
 The principal lakes are, the loch of Lindores, about a 
 mile in length, and varying in breadth, abounding with 
 pike and perch, aud beautifully situated in a richly- 
 wooded spot ; Kilconquhar loch, in the parish of that 
 name, about two miles in circumference ; Loch Gellie, 
 three miles in circumference ; and Kinghorn loch, a 
 natural reservoir situated near that town, which supplies 
 the mills with water.
 
 FIFE 
 
 FIND 
 
 The SOIL is exceedingrly various ; along the Firth of 
 Forth, a deep rich loam alternating with clay and gravel ; 
 from the mouth of the Eden, along the shore north- 
 ward, a fine light, dry, and sandy soil ; to the south 
 of the Eden, of inferior quality. West of St. Andrew's 
 are tracts of moor and moss, with some intervening 
 portions of fertile land ; towards the river Tay, a rich 
 soil, resting on whin rock ; and on the slopes of the 
 hills, a productive clay, with loam and gravel. The 
 system of agriculture is in a highly improved state : the 
 extent of the farms varies from fifty or sixty to 400 or 
 500 acres ; the buildings are generally substantial and 
 well arranged, and on most of the farms are threshing- 
 mills, some of which are driven by steam. The lands 
 have been drained thoroughly to a great extent, and are 
 inclosed with stone walls, or hedges of hawthorn. The 
 chief crops are oats, wheat, barley, turnips, and potatoes. 
 Much attention is paid to the rearing of cattle and sheep, 
 and the number of sheep is much greater than formerly. 
 The number of horses employed in agriculture in the 
 year 1844 was 81 58, and otherwise, 2466. Occasionally, 
 numbers of pigs are fed for the London market. The 
 plantations are very extensive, but chiefly of modern 
 growth : on the lands of the Earl of Leven is a forest 
 of Scotch firs, several miles in length ; but little ancient 
 timber is found except in the grounds of some of the 
 principal mansions. Fifeshire abounds in coal and lime- 
 stone, both of which are of good quality, and largely 
 wrought. Freestone of different colours, from a dark 
 red to a beautiful white, of compact texture, and sus- 
 ceptible of a high polish, is also abundant ; and in the 
 northern districts whinstone is predominant, of excellent 
 quality for the roads. Ironstone is found in various 
 parts ; in some places in seams too thin to remunerate 
 the labour of working it ; in others in veins of greater 
 extent, and yielding from thirty-three to forty per cent, 
 of ore, wrought for the Carron Iron Company. Lead and 
 copper have been found in several places ; the former, 
 principally in the Lomond hills, has been wrought, but 
 not with any profitable result, and the works have been 
 discontinued. The scats are Falkland House, Leslie 
 House, Melville House, Crawford Priory, Donibristle, 
 Balcarres, Broomhall, Dunnikeir House, Raith, Wemyss 
 Castle, Balcaskie, Bethune, Balbirnie, Craigsanquhar, 
 Dysart House, Elie House, Pitmilly, Dunbog, Raukeillor, 
 Lathrisk, Pitferran, Torry, Inchdairny, Strathendry, 
 Mugdrum, Rossie, Pittencrieff, Largo House, Newton- 
 CoUessie, Durie, Innergelly, Mount Melville, Kelly 
 House, Cambo, Scotscraig, Fordel, Balgarvie, Lochore, 
 St. Fort, Kemback, Fernie, Kilconquhar, Charlton, Kil- 
 maron, and others. These mansions are for the most 
 part handsomely built, and, with their surrounding 
 grounds, form striking features in the scenery. 
 
 The principal manufacture is that of linen, which is 
 carried on throughout the county ; the fabrics are 
 damasks, diapers, Osnaburghs, Silesias, and the plainer 
 kinds of brown linens, ticking, checks, and sail-cloth, 
 which are made in most of the villages. Flax-spinning 
 is carried on to a great extent ; and at Dunfermline, 
 Kinghorn, Abbotshall, Leven, and other places are large 
 mills for the purpose. The manufacture of paper, soap, 
 candles, and glue is also extensive. There are several 
 iron-foundries, tanneries, potteries, brick and tile works, 
 numerous bleachfields on the Leven, a vitriol-work, 
 breweries, distilleries, malting establishments on a large 
 445 
 
 scale, and various other works. Ship-building is carried 
 on at the several sea-port towns on the south. The 
 commerce of the county consists chiefly in the export 
 of cattle and sheep by the ferries, and, at the other ports, 
 of grain, potatoes, and other agricultural produce, coal, 
 limestone, and lime ; and in the importation of timber, 
 bark, hides, tallow, flax, hemp, tar, iron, slates, groce- 
 ries, and other articles. Facility of communication is 
 afforded by good roads, and by the great Edinburgh, 
 Perth, and Dundee railway. At Newport is a ferry 
 across the Tay to Dundee, and at Ferryport-on-Craig one 
 across the same river to Broughty. There are two 
 ferries, also, of great importance across the Forth ; one 
 connecting Burntisland, in Fife, with Granton ; and the 
 other, higher up the Firth, connecting North and South 
 Queensferry. The total annual value of real property 
 in the county, assessed to the Income tax for the year 
 1842, was £508,923, of which amount £381,572 were 
 for lands, £74,654 for houses, £22,564 for mines, £4797 
 for quarries, £1 159 for fisheries, and the remainder for 
 other kinds of real property not comprised in the fore- 
 going items. There are numerous remains of antiquity, 
 among which are the ruins of the ancient abbey and 
 palace of Dunfermline, the abbey of Lindores, the palace 
 of Falkland, the tower and chapel of St. Regulus, Car- 
 dinal Bethune's Castle, the Castle of Macduff, the Castle 
 of Ravenscraig, Rosythe Castle, and the Castle of Loch- 
 ore, with various others, which are noticed in articles on 
 the places where they are situated. 
 
 FILLAN'S, ST., a village, in the parish of Comrie, 
 county of Perth ; containing 172 inhabitants. It is a 
 beautiful and romantic place, situated on the north side 
 of Loch Earn, and consists of a number of well-built 
 houses, rendered of pleasing appearance by shrubberies 
 in front. Here was established some years since the St. 
 Fillan's Society, which holds annual meetings for the 
 encouragement of Highland games and dress. A school 
 is supported by Lord Willoughby de Eresby, who allows 
 the teacher a salary of £20, and a dwelling-house and 
 garden. On the summit of Duu-Fillan hill is a rock 
 known as St. Fillan's Chair, and two small cavities are 
 said to have been made by the saint, the impression of 
 his knees from his constant habit of prayer. 
 
 FINAVON, or Finhaven, in the county of Forfar. 
 — See Oathlaw. 
 
 FINDHORN, a burgh and seaport town, in the 
 parish of Kinloss, county of Elgin, 4 miles (N. by E.) 
 from Forres ; containing 806 inhabitants. This place, 
 the name of which signifies "the mouth of the Erne", 
 stands in the north-western part of the county, near the 
 river Erne or Findhorn, which expands into a capacious 
 bay called Loch Findhorn, on the south-west of the 
 town, and communicates by a narrow strait with the 
 Moray Firth. Findhorn is a burgh of barony, the sea- 
 port of Forres, and the property of H. A. I. Munro, Esq.; 
 it is inhabited chiefly by fishermen, seafaring persons, 
 and a few merchants and tradespeople, and is the seat 
 of a very considerable traflic. This is the third town of 
 the same name ; the first, which stood about a mile 
 west of the bar at the mouth of the harbour, and the 
 second, a little to the north of the present town, having 
 both been washed away by the sea. Even now, only a 
 small space, containing a broken bank of sand, inter- 
 venes between the tide-mark and the north end of the 
 town : the bank forms the sole rampart against the tre-
 
 FIND 
 
 F I NT 
 
 mendous swell occasioned by north-easterly winds, and 
 is sometimes so torn and drifted by hurricanes, that the 
 sand covers the streets and gardens to the depth of ten or 
 twelve feet, threatening the town with destruction at no 
 distant period. The river, which affords fine trout- 
 angling, and is famed for its romantic scenery, rises in 
 the mountains near Badenoch, and after a serpentine and 
 impetuous course of about sixty miles from the south- 
 west, through the counties of Inverness, Nairn, and 
 Elgin, expands into the bay already referred to, and joins 
 the Firth. 
 
 Findhorn is one of the safest harbours on the coast ; 
 it measures three and a half miles in length, from the 
 bar at the north to its southern limit, and the breadth 
 varies from a little more than half a mile to two miles. 
 There are two quays of hewn stone, one of which was 
 recently erected with a breast- work (by which it is joined 
 to the old pier) at an expense of upwards of £1300. 
 Superior accommodation is afforded for shipping, and 
 the depth of water in the channel, where most shallow, 
 is ten feet and a half at the lowest neap tide, and from 
 thirteen to seventeen at high tide. A considerable part 
 of the bay is dry at low water ; but the river, in some 
 places half a mile broad, has at the lowest ebb of stream 
 tides from twelve to fifteen feet of water, in which the 
 largest vessels can float in safety. The earth and sand 
 bank at the entrance, called the bar, and by some sup- 
 posed to be a portion of land encroached upon by the 
 sea, would prove dangerous from its shifting with strong 
 floods or easterly winds ; but the pilots understand its 
 nature so w-ell, that an accident is scarcely ever heard 
 of. The fisheries pursued are those of salmon, herrings, 
 and haddock, which are carried on with great spirit, and 
 prove a source of considerable emolument to the pro- 
 prietors : about sixty men are engaged, who follow their 
 avocation in large boats carrying several persons and 
 from eight to ten tons' weight of fish. The salmon- 
 fishery produces annually, on an average, about six hun- 
 dred boxes of fish packed in ice, valued at £5 each, and 
 sent to the London market : the herring-fishery, which 
 has been carried on for above twenty or thirty years, 
 has for some time supplied 20,000 barrels every year ; 
 and the haddock-fishery is valued at £2000. There are 
 twelve vessels belonging to the port, together registered 
 at 1000 tons, and occupied in an extensive coasting- 
 trade. The imports comprise great quantities of Sun- 
 derland and Newcastle coal, and lime from the same 
 places ; coal from the Firth of Forth, slates from Balli- 
 chulish, iron from Wales and Staffordshire, salt from 
 Liverpool, and large supplies of bone-dust for manure. 
 The exports for provincial use consist of herrings, grain, 
 eggs, and about 2000 loads of timber every year from 
 the forests of Darnaway and Altyre. Findhorn is also 
 visited by foreign vessels, bringing iron, timber, and tar 
 from the Baltic, and timber from British North America ; 
 and there are regular trading smacks from London, 
 Leith, and Liverpool, with cargoes for Forres, Nairn, &c. 
 A very good turnpike-road runs southward from Findhorn 
 to Forres, between which places there is a daily post; 
 and from this road a branch diverges at the bridge of 
 Kinloss, eastward, to Burgh-Head and Elgin. Fairs are 
 held in the town for the sale of sheep, black-cattle, and 
 horses, on the second Wednesday in March, July, and 
 October (O. S.). An Assembly's school was till lately 
 supported, the master of which had a salary of £20, and 
 446 
 
 about £12 fees, with an allowance of £10 from Mr. 
 Munro, of Novar, in lieu of land and other accommoda- 
 tions : a school-room and a house for the master were 
 built some years since, at a cost of £160, raised by sub- 
 scription and public collections. This school is now 
 maintained from the funds of the Free Church, and is in 
 connexion with it, the master receiving a salary of £15 
 from that body. A Ubrary is connected with the school ; 
 and there is another in the town, for general use. 
 
 FINDOCHTY, a village, in the parish of R.^thven, 
 county of Banff, 2^ miles (N. E. by E.) from Buckie ; 
 containing 414 inhabitants. This is a fishing- village on 
 the coast of the Moray Firth, a short distance from Fin- 
 dochty point, and a mile and a half north-east of Rath- 
 ven. It was founded in 1716, on the property of the 
 then Earl of Findlater. The fishery here is very exten- 
 sive, afiFording employment to nearly the whole of the 
 male population, whose reputation for the superior cure 
 of herrings and other fish has been maintained for 
 upwards of a century. About forty boats, chiefly of the 
 larger size, belong to the place. 
 
 FINDOGASK, Perth.— See Cask, Nether. 
 
 FINDON, or Finnan, a village, in the parish of 
 Bancbory-Devenick, county of Kincardine, 65 miles 
 (S. by W.) from Aberdeen ; containing 19O inhabitants. 
 This is a fishing-village, situated on the coast, a few 
 miles south of Girdleness, and having a small harbour. 
 It is celebrated for the finely-flavoured fish called the 
 " Finnan haddock", which is cured here in a pecuhar 
 manner, by the smoke of peat. So delicate is this fish 
 that it can rarely be sold fresh, in an undepreciated 
 condition, at any considerable distance. Several boats, 
 and a large portion of the inhabitants, are engaged in 
 the fishery, and, in the summer season, in that of her- 
 rings in the Moray Firth. There are two other fishing- 
 villages in the parish ; the three places send to sea about 
 eighteen boats in the aggregate, and are all celebrated 
 for the smoked fish known by the general name of the 
 "Finnan haddock", above mentioned. 
 
 FINNIESTON, a village and western suburb, within 
 the jurisdiction of the city of Glasgow, county of La- 
 nark ; containing 2096 inhabitants. This place, which 
 forms part of Anderston, was commenced by the foun- 
 der of that district on a plan laid down by his chaplain, 
 the Rev. Mr. Finnic, from whom it derived its name. It 
 consists of several streets, crossing each other at right 
 angles. The houses are well built, with garden-ground 
 attached to each, and stretch northward from the banks 
 of the Clyde, on which are some handsome villas, occu- 
 pied by the opulent merchants and manufacturers of 
 the city, and which, from their elevated site, command 
 pleasingly interesting views. In the village is a spacious 
 manufactory of cut-glass, in which many articles of the 
 most elegant and brilliant quality are produced. To the 
 east of this place are Grahamston and Brownfield, for- 
 merly distinguished as detached suburban villages, but 
 now forming an integral part of the city. 
 
 FINNYFOLD, in the county of Aberdeen. — See 
 Whinnie-Fauld. 
 
 FINTRAY, a parish, in the district and county of 
 Aberdeen, 2-| miles (E.) from Kintore ; containing 
 1032 inhabitants. This place is said to have derived its 
 name from a Gaelic term signifying " the fair bank or 
 boundary of the river". It was formerly celebrated for 
 its abbey, nothing of which now remains but the foun-
 
 FI NT 
 
 FINT 
 
 dations ; the establishment was called the Northern 
 Abbey of Lindores, and is supposed to have been erected 
 about the year 1386, that date having been found upon 
 a stone which, on account of the place where it was dis- 
 covered, is thought to have been a part of the ancient build- 
 ing. The parish is in that part of Aberdeenshire called 
 Forniartin, and stretches from five to six miles along the 
 bank of the river Don ; it is from three to four miles in 
 breadth, and contains 6500 acres. Fintray is bounded 
 on the north and west by the parish of Keith-Hall ; on 
 the south by the Don, which separates it from the pa- 
 rishes of Dyce, Kinellar, and Kintore ; and on the east 
 by the parish of New Machar. The ground rises gradually 
 towards the north to the height of about 300 feet, after 
 which it forms an easy dechvity. The violent and de- 
 structive floods of the river, which runs from west to 
 east, and falls into the sea near Old Aberdeen, are among 
 the most remarkable events of modern times connected 
 with the history of the parish. The first flood of which 
 account was taken happened in 1/68, at harvest time, 
 and carried away the larger part of the crops from the 
 lower grounds, just as they were ready to be laid up in 
 stacks. Another inundation took place in August 1799, 
 which, in addition to a considerable quantity of hay, 
 swept away much grain then standing uncut. A still 
 more violent flood occurred on Aug. 4, 1 829, desolating 
 to a great extent the property of several individuals ; the 
 water rose about fourteen feet above its ordinary level, 
 and nearly eighteen inches higher than it had done in 
 any former case within memory. Good embankments, 
 however, have been constructed ; and at Fintray and 
 Wester Fintray, about 300 acres of land of very fine qua- 
 lity are now protected. 
 
 The SOIL varies considerably ; in the neighbourhood 
 of the river it is a deep, rich, alluvial mould, while at 
 some distance inward the soil is much lighter. On the 
 higher land it is poor, consisting chiefly of peat-moss 
 and moor ; but in the northern quarter it improves in 
 quality, and rewards the labour of good cultivation. 
 There are from 5000 to 6000 acres cultivated, or occa- 
 sionally in tillage ; about 800 are pasture or waste, and 
 between 600 and 700 occupied by wood. The produce 
 is oats, peas, hay, potatoes, sometimes a little barley, 
 and large quantities of turnips, to the growth of which 
 the soil is well adapted. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the parish is £4130. The cattle are of the 
 Aberdeenshire breed, many of which are fed and fattened ; 
 and the horses are of a superior description : a few sheep 
 only are reared, and these chiefly for gentlemen's plea- 
 sure-grounds. The improvements in draining, inclosing, 
 and embanking have been considerable of late years, and 
 the farm-houses and offices are in a far better condition 
 than formerly. The plantations are in a flourishing 
 state. The prevailing rock is granite, which is found in 
 large quantities, and of superior quality ; limestone may 
 also be obtained, but fuel is too scarce to admit of the 
 necessary process of converting it into lime. The chief 
 mansion is Fintray House, a large and excellent edifice 
 lately erected by the chief proprietor of the parish. 
 There is also a good residence, built in the cottage style, 
 upon the lands of Disblair. 
 
 The manufacture of fine woollen-cloth is pursued at 
 
 Cothal mills, established in 1798, and which have been 
 
 regularly carried on since that period : it produces 
 
 about 8000 yards per month. The recent introduction 
 
 447 
 
 of the manufacture of Tweed plaid has enabled the pro- 
 prietor to employ a considerably larger number of hands 
 than formerly, to meet the call for an extensive supply 
 of this article, to the production of which his works are 
 particularly adapted. The inhabitants of the parish are, 
 however, chiefly engaged in husbandry. There are good 
 commutation roads in all directions through the pa- 
 rish. Ecclesiastically Fintray is within the bounds of 
 the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen, and the patronage 
 is vested in Sir John Forbes, Bart. : the stipend is £217, 
 with a manse, built in 1804, and a glebe of the annual 
 value of £10. The church, erected in 1821, is a com- 
 modious and substantial building, and contains 500 
 sittings. There is a parochial school, in- which Latin 
 and mathematics are taught, with the usual branches of 
 education ; the master has a salary of £28, with about 
 £23 fees, a portion of the Dick bequest, a house, and a 
 quarter of an acre of garden-ground. Another school is 
 open, in which the instruction is of the same kind as in 
 the parochial school ; the master receives the interest of 
 £200 left by the Rev. Dr. Morison of Disblair, with fees, 
 an allowance from the Dick bequest, and a house and 
 garden. A silver cup is still in the possession of the 
 minister, having the date 1632, and believed to have 
 been cast from a silver head of St. Meddan, who was 
 the tutelar saint of the parish : it is reported to have 
 been carried in procession, on account of its magical 
 virtues in procuring suitable weather for the purposes of 
 agriculture. 
 
 FINTRY, a parish, in the county of Stirling, 
 17 miles (N.) from Glasgow ; containing, with the vil- 
 lages of Gonachan and Newtown, and the Clachan, 884 
 inhabitants. This parish is said to have derived its 
 name from Gaelic terms signifying "fair land", ap- 
 plied in consequence of the picturesque appearance of 
 parts of the district, in contrast with the dreary moors 
 and barren mountains by which they are surrounded. 
 It is of an irregular form, extending about six miles in 
 length from east to west, and five in breadth ; and com- 
 prises 13,000 acres, of which 1000 are aratjle, 100 in 
 wood and plantations, and the remainder hill and moor 
 pasture, chiefly laid out in large sheep-farms. The sur- 
 face, which embraces some of the highest grounds be- 
 tween the Firths of Clyde and Forth, is considerably 
 diversified, and marked principally by three ranges of 
 hills, and two intermediate, beautifully rural, and fertile 
 valleys. The ranges of hills are, the Fintry hills, on the 
 north ; a continuation of the Killeam line, traversing 
 the middle of the parish, and uniting with the DundafF 
 range, on the west, in St. Ninian's parish ; and a southern 
 chain, continued from the Campsie Fells and the Meikle 
 Binn. These elevations are rich in fern, moss, and 
 lichen, and in the various valuable botanical specimens 
 peculiar to such localities ; the moors abound with 
 grouse and a variety of wild-fowl. The chief rivers are 
 the Carron and the Endrick, both of which rise in the 
 parish, and, watering the two valleys already referred to, 
 contribute materially to enliven their delightful scenery. 
 Of these streams, the Carron, celebrated in song, runs by 
 the margin of the Campsie hills, and forms the boundary 
 line, for the distance of about two miles, between Fintry 
 and the parish of Campsie, after which, leaving the valley, 
 it enters a new district, and eventually empties itself into 
 the Forth. The Endrick, which receives a considerable 
 accession to its waters by the junction of the Gonachan
 
 PINT 
 
 F I RT 
 
 burn, is a bold and precipitous stream, passing in some 
 places with great noise along its rocky and rugged 
 channel, and exhibiting a magnificent cascade in its pro- 
 gress over a lofty rock, commonly called the " Loup of 
 Fintry ", ninety feet in height : it loses itself at last in 
 Lnch Lomond. Both the rivers are well stocked with 
 trout ; and in the latter, below the waterfall, a species 
 of trout called par is exceedingly numerous. 
 
 The SOIL is in general productive ; and oats and barley, 
 which are the staple crops, are raised of very excellent 
 quality, together with hay, a great quantity of which is 
 obtained from an extensive tract called the Carron bog, 
 situated near the river of the same name. The fine 
 sheep-walks, however, formed of many small farms 
 broken up some years ago, and upon which large num- 
 bers of live stock range, confer on the parish its chief 
 character, and are the principal source of wealth to the 
 landowner. About 4000 sheep are usually kept, and 
 nearly 1000 head of cattle, besides a good supply of Ayr- 
 shire cows for the dairy, the produce of which is of supe- 
 rior quality, and is disposed of in the neighbouring towns 
 and villages. Open drains are frequently cut along the 
 margin of the hills, to the great advantage of the pastures ; 
 and several excellent farm-houses, with suitable offices, 
 have been built in different parts of the parish within 
 these few years. The annual value of real property in 
 Fintry is £4610. The rocks are of several kinds, and 
 in the northern chain of hills become so prominent as to 
 invest the scenery with a character of singular variety 
 and grandeur ; they chiefly comprise granite, whinstone, 
 freestone, and redstone, here called firestone. In the 
 north-western portion of the parish is a hill called Doun, 
 formed partly of a perpendicular rock about fifty feet in 
 height, distributed into numerous beautiful basaltic 
 columns. Small quantities of coal are also found in 
 different places. The plantations, some of which are 
 recent, consist chiefly of various sorts of fir, but inter- 
 mixed with hard-wood, as oak, beech, &c. ; and encom- 
 passing Culcreuch House, an ancient mansion with 
 modern additions, situated in the north-west, is an ex- 
 tensive sweep of fine old timber. 
 
 Newtown, the chief village, was built to accommodate 
 the population that sprang up in consequence of the 
 erection of a cotton- factory by the late Mr. Speirs, about 
 fifty years since : it is situated in the western part of 
 the parish. The establishment contains 20,000 spindles, 
 and employs about 260 hands, the machinery being 
 driven by the water of the river Endrick, collected for 
 that purpose in a reservoir of about thirty acres ; and 
 by a steam-engine, lately erected. The intercourse kept 
 up with Glasgow by the conveyance of the raw material 
 and the manufactured goods, is said to have been the 
 occasion of a material improvement in the state of the 
 roads, and to have opened a larger market for the sale 
 of the farm produce. This village, the population of 
 which exceeds 500, also contains a distillery, erected in 
 1816, and producing annually 70,000 gallons of malt 
 whisky. There are likewise two hamlets, one called 
 Clachan, and the other Gouachan, in the former of which 
 are the church and manse, and in the latter the parochial 
 school, and near it a small wool-factory. The numerous 
 lambs bred here are generally sent for sale to Glasgow, 
 with a part of the dairy produce, the other part being 
 disposed of at Canipsie and Kirkintilloch ; the black- 
 cattle are sold at Falkirk. 
 448 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Dumbarton, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the 
 patronage of the Duke of Montrose : the minister's 
 stipend is £155, with a manse, lately rebuilt, and a glebe 
 valued at £22 per annum. Fintry church is a neat 
 structure with a tower at the west end, built in 1823, 
 and containing 500 sittings. The master of the paro- 
 chial school has a salary of £34, with about £20 fees, and 
 a housfe and garden. Another school has lately been 
 opened in the village, chiefly for the benefit of the chil- 
 dren of those employed in the factory ; about 100 attend 
 in the day-time, and fifty or sixty in the evening. The 
 premises, which are spacious, and comprise a house for 
 the master, were erected in consequence of a legacy of 
 £3000 left for that purpose by Mr. John Stewart, a 
 trader in Fintry, who died in 1836. Mr. Stewart also 
 left £500 to form a fund for a savings' bank in the pa- 
 rish. There is a small subscription library, which has 
 been established several years. The only relic of anti- 
 quity is the ruin of an ancient castle with a fosse and 
 mound, formerly the residence of the Grahams of 
 Fintry : it stood on the south side of Fintry hill, opposite 
 Sir John de Graham's castle in the parish of St. Ninian's, 
 which was burnt down by Edward L after the battle of 
 Falkirk. The parish confers the title of Baron on the 
 Duke of Montrose. 
 
 FIRTH and STENNESS, a parish, in the county of 
 Orkney, the former district 6 miles (W. by N.) and the 
 latter 8 miles (W.) from Kirkwall; containing 116' 
 inhabitants, of whom 584 are in Firth. These ancient 
 parishes, which appear to have been united soon after the 
 abolition of episcopacy in Scotland, are situated on the 
 Mainland of the Orkney Islands, and are bounded on the 
 north by the parishes of Harray and Kendall, on the east 
 by the parish of Kirkwall, on the south by that of Or- 
 phir, and on the west by the parishes of Sandwick and 
 Stromness. The coast, including the small island of 
 Damsay and the holm of Grimbister, detached portions 
 of Firth, lying in the bay of that name, is about ten miles 
 in length, and the shores low and flat, with few or no 
 headlands of importance. Firth bay abounds with fish 
 of various kinds ; and oysters of large size, and of ex- 
 cellent quality, are found in considerable numbers. The 
 island of Damsay, more than a mile in circumference, is 
 extremely beautiful ; its surface is covered with verdure, 
 and affords luxuriant pasture for sheep, of which a few 
 hundreds of superior breed are kept upon it. On this 
 island was anciently a castle, which was regarded as a 
 place of much strength ; and there was subsequently a 
 church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, of which, however, 
 little more than the site remains. 
 
 The parish is about nine miles in extreme length, and 
 varies greatly in breadth : the number of acres it con- 
 tains has not been ascertained, owing to its great irregu- 
 larity of form. Its surface is broken by numerous 
 ridges of hilly moorland, covered with heath and moss 
 to the very summit. The soil near the shore is a deep 
 mossy loam, and in other parts shallow. There are 
 some portions of arable land in good cultivation, yielding 
 pretty fair crops, and some fields of rich pasture near 
 the borders of the loch of Stenness, and in parts of 
 Firth ; but in general little improvement has been made 
 in agriculture. Stenness loch, to the north-west, is a 
 noble sheet of water nearly five miles in length, and 
 divided almost into two separate lakes by the projection
 
 FL A D 
 
 F LI S 
 
 of a strip of land from the north-west to the bridge of 
 Broigar. In that portion of the lake which is bounded 
 by the parish of Harray on the east, are numerous small 
 holms, frequented by great numbers of aquatic fowl of 
 various kinds. The shores of the loch are embellished 
 with fields of natural grass, alternated with others of 
 highly-cultivated land, and are studded with neat houses 
 belonging to the proprietors of small farms that acknow- 
 ledge no superior landlord. On the peninsula dividing 
 the lake are the celebrated stones of Stenness, one of 
 the most extensive and complete Druidical relics in the 
 county, consisting of a circle, nearly entire, of massive 
 and lofty columns, beyond which are a semicircle, with 
 several single stones irregularly placed, and numerous 
 cairns. Buruess, a seat in the parish, is a handsome 
 mansion finely situated on the shore of the baj' of Firth. 
 There is but one village, that of Phinstown, seated at the 
 western extremity of the bay. The platting of straw 
 affords employment to part of the females, who work at 
 their own homes for the manufacturers of Kirkwall and 
 Stromness. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Cairston, synod of Orkney. 
 The minister's stipend is £158. 6. .S., of which part is 
 paid from the exchequer ; with a manse, and two glebes 
 valued together at £"27 per annum : patron, the Earl of 
 Zetland. There are tvi-o churches, that of Firth, built in 
 1813, and the church of Stenness, built in 1793, and re- 
 paired and reseated in 1816 ; they are both neat struc- 
 tures, and contain each about 700 sittings. Divine 
 service is performed in each every Sunday. The whole 
 of the services were until recently performed by the in- 
 cumbent alone ; but he is now assisted by a missionary, 
 for whose support the General Assembly give the annual 
 sum of £30, and one of the proprietors contributes £"20. 
 There are also places of worship for members of the Free 
 Church and the United Presbyterian Synod. The pa- 
 rochial school is well attended : the master has a salary 
 of £26, and the interest of £90 laid out on heritable 
 security, together with a house and garden ; his fees are 
 very inconsiderable. In each of the districts is a school 
 supported by the Society for Propagating Christian 
 Knowledge, who pay each of the teachers a salary of £15 
 per annum. In the neighbourhood of Garmiston, in 
 Stenness, is an extensive plain between two hills, on which 
 are numerous tumuli, supposed to cover the graves of 
 the slain in the battle of Summers-dale, or Bigswell. 
 This battle took place in the reign of James V., between 
 the inhabitants under Sir James Sinclair, son of Robert, 
 Earl of Orkney, and a body of men under John, Earl of 
 Caithness, who, pretending to have some claim to the 
 earldom of Orkney, landed at Howton in order to take 
 forcible possession of it. 
 
 FISH HOLM, an island, in the parish of Delting, 
 county of Shetland. It is a small island of the Shet- 
 land group, situated northward of the Mainland of the 
 parish, and in the southern part of Yell Sound. 
 
 FISHERROW, in the county of Edinburgh. — See 
 
 NORTHESK. 
 
 FLADA, an isle, in the parish of Kilmuir, county 
 of Inverness. It is of very small extent, and lies close 
 to the north coast of the Isle of Skye : the soil affords 
 pasturage for sheep. 
 
 FLADA-WHEIN, an isle, in the parish of Kilmxjir, 
 county of Inverness. This is one of the Hebrides, 
 Vol. I.— 449 
 
 lying about si.x miles northward from the nearest point 
 of the Isle of Skye ; it is two miles in circumference, 
 and its coasts abound with fish. The quality of the 
 grass here is very good, and the land is wholly appro- 
 priated to the pasturage of sheep. Although the isle 
 stands in the midst of a salt, deep, and rapid channel, 
 it contains two or three fresh-water springs. In its 
 vicinity are four smaller islets, each capable of rearing a 
 few sheep. 
 
 FLADDA, an island, in the parish of Barra, county 
 of Inverness ; containing 7 inhabitants. It is a small 
 islet of the Hebrides, lying between the island of Barra 
 and island of Sanderay. 
 
 FLADDA, an isle, in the parish of Portree, county 
 of Inverness ; containing 29 inhabitants. It lies in the 
 Sound of Rona, and westward of the northern point of 
 Raasay island. 
 
 FLADDAY ISLE, in the parish of Harris, county 
 of Inverness. This is a flat islet, situated within the 
 island of Scarp, at the entrance of Loch Resort, and on 
 the western side of the mainland of Harris. 
 
 FLANNAN ISLES, a group of seven islands, in the 
 parish of Lewis, county of Inverness. They lie seven- 
 teen miles north-west of Gallan Head in Lewis, and are 
 supposed to be the Insula Sacrce of ancient writers, and, 
 from the number of Druidical remains still found upon 
 them, to have been the residence of the Druids. The 
 largest islet has an area of about eighty acres, the second 
 in size perhaps twenty acres, and both are noted for 
 fattening sheep ; the rest are of much smaller dimen- 
 sions, and altogether unoccupied. Various kinds of sea- 
 fowl resort hither ; and when, on the arrival of a boat, 
 they come out of their holes, they are described as cover- 
 ing the surface of the islands, and giving them " the 
 appearance of a meadow thickly enamelled with field- 
 flowers". Though this group is much dreaded by ma- 
 riners, it would seem that the danger of approach is not 
 great. 
 
 FLAWCRAIG, a hamlet, in the parish of Kinnaird, 
 county of Perth, 1 mile (S. W. by W.) from Kinnaird ; 
 containing 44 inhabitants. It lies in the southern part 
 of the parish, and on the road between Kinnaird and 
 Fingask. 
 
 FLISK, a parish, in the district of Cupar, in the 
 county of Fife, 8 miles (N. W. byN.) from Cupar; con- 
 taining, with the hamlet of Glenduckie, 270 inhabitants. 
 This place is supposed to have derived its name, descrip- 
 tive of wetness or moisture, from the situation of the 
 lower grounds, which, stretching along the Tay on one 
 continued level, were formerly subject to occasional in- 
 undations. The parish lies on the south bank of the 
 river, and is about four miles in length, and of very 
 irregular form, varying from half a mile to two miles in 
 breadth. It comprises 2500 acres, of which 430 are 
 pasture, 300 woodland and plantations, and the remain- 
 der arable land in profitable cultivation. The surface 
 near the river is flat, but rises gradually towards the 
 south till it attains a considerable elevation, forming 
 part of a hilly range, of which the highest points are 
 Lyndemus hill, Logie Law, and Glenduckie hill, the first 
 of them about 750 feet above the level of the river. 
 The beach is clayey, and is defended by an accumulation 
 of shingle thrown up by the tide. For the greater por- 
 tion of the parish, the soil is a loam intermixed with 
 clay ; in some parts, especially towards the river, clay 
 
 3 M
 
 FL I S 
 
 FOCH 
 
 and gravel ; and in others, a rich black loam of great 
 fertility. In several places the scenery is enlivened with 
 flourishing plantations, chiefly of larch and Scotch fir; 
 the timber in Flisk wood, of more ancient growth, is 
 mostly oak. There are numerous springs of excellent 
 quality, which afford an ample supply of water. The 
 crops are barley, oats, wheat, potatoes, peas, and turnips. 
 The system of agriculture is improved : draining has 
 been practised to a considerable extent, and some pro- 
 gress made in inclosing the farms ; the fences are mainly 
 stone dykes, and are kept in good repair, and bone-dust 
 has been extensively introduced as manure. The cattle 
 are usually of the old Fifeshire breed, crossed occasion- 
 ally with the Forfarshire and the Teeswater ; but the 
 number is very limited, and few, if any, sheep are 
 reared. The farm-buildings are substantial and com- 
 modious. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £302*. 
 
 The substrata are generally secondary trap, of which 
 the upper part of the hills is composed, and red sand- 
 stone in the lower districts ; greenstone is also found 
 in several places, with agates and other stones. Along 
 the margin of the river Tay are the remains of an ancient 
 forest, covered at full tide with four or five feet of water; 
 the appearance is that of peat-moss, and at low water 
 the stumps of trees, with their roots attached, are to be 
 seen resting on a stratum of clay. The nearest market- 
 towns are Cupar, Dundee, and Newburgh, to which the 
 farmers resort for the sale of produce. There are seve- 
 ral stations in the parish for the salmon-fishery, and 
 also two for Sperling ; the quantity of fish taken is not 
 great, but they are of excellent quality. The manufac- 
 ture of potato -flour is carried on at the farm of East 
 Flisk, where a mill has been erected for the purpose, 
 which is propelled by a steam-engine of two-horse 
 power. Coal, tiles, slates, and stone are landed on the 
 beach ; but as there is no pier, the inhabitants derive 
 little other benefit from the navigation of the river. 
 The road from Newburgh to Woodhaven, maintained by 
 statute labour, runs through the parish. Flisk is in the 
 presbytery of Cupar, synod of Fife, and in the patronage 
 of the Earl of Zetland : the minister's stipend is about 
 £145, with a manse and glebe. The church, erected in 
 1790, near the site of the old church, then taken down, 
 is a neat plain edifice adapted for a congregation of 150 
 persons ; it is beautifully situated on the bank of the 
 river, and about four miles from Glenduckie, the inha- 
 bitants of which hamlet attend the parish church of 
 Dunbog, it being more convenient for them. The paro- 
 chial school affords a good education ; the master has a 
 salary of £34, with £10 fees, and a house and garden. 
 
 Near the western extremity of the parish are the 
 ruins of the ancient castle of Ballinbreich, seated on an 
 eminence overlooking the river, and surrounded with a 
 plantation. It was for many ages the residence of the 
 Earls of Rothes, of whom Andrew, the fourth earl, was 
 buried in the old church. Being, however, deserted 
 by that family, the castle was sold, together with the 
 adjoining lands, and has been suffered to fall into decay. 
 The only remains are, part of the walls, of red sandstone, 
 which appear to have inclosed an area 150 feet in length 
 and seventy feet in width ; and some of the ancient 
 timber, of which two remarkably fine chesuut-trees have 
 been preserved. Near the castle, and within the grounds, 
 is a spot called Chapel Hill, said to have been the site 
 430 
 
 of some religious building, whose foundations may with 
 difficulty be traced. There are also slight remains of 
 another chapel, in Flisk wood, consisting of low walls ; 
 but whether this building or the ruin near the castle is 
 referred to in the enumeration of the parishes of Fife, 
 in which this parish is designated " Flisk cum Capella", 
 is uncertain. Several stone coffins of rude form, con- 
 taining urns in which were burnt bones, were a few years 
 since discovered on the farms of East Flisk and Belhelvie : 
 burnt bones have also been found in a cairn on the sum- 
 mit of a mount, on Fliskmill farm, and on Fliskraill hill 
 are some stones called St. Muggins Seat. Silver half- 
 crowns, shillings, and sixpences, coined in the reign of 
 Edward III., have been found on the lands of East Flisk. 
 The Rev. John Wemyss, principal of St. Leonard's Col- 
 lege, St. Andrew's, in 1592 ; and the Rev. John Fleming, 
 D.D., author of the Philosophy of Zoology and History of 
 British Animals, and professor of natural philosophy in 
 King's College, Aberdeen, in 1832, were ministers of this 
 parish. 
 
 FLODDA, an island, in the parish of Barra, county 
 of Inverness ; containing 53 inhabitants. It lies near 
 the island of Helesay, in the sound of Flodda, and east- 
 ward of the mainland of Barra. Flodda Sound opens 
 to the south, and ships of large burthen may ride in it 
 with safety at all seasons. 
 
 FLOTTA, in the county of Orkney. — See Walls 
 and Flotta. 
 
 FOCHABERS, a burgh of barony, in the parish of 
 Bellie, county of Elgin, 7 miles (E. S. E.) from Elgin; 
 containing 1135 inhabitants. This place is situated in 
 the vicinity of Gordon Castle, on rising ground near the 
 confluence of a small rivulet with the Spey, over which 
 latter is a fine bridge, originally of four arches, having a 
 water-way of 340 feet : the two arches on the west side 
 were swept away by the flood of August 1829, and have 
 been replaced by one spacious wooden arch. Fochabers 
 is a neat village, built on a regular plan, with a square 
 in the centre, ornamented on each side with trees, and 
 entered by streets at right angles. It is governed by a 
 baron-bailie, appointed by the superior. A village of the 
 same name formerly stood about a mile northward of 
 the present, and still nearer to Gordon Castle ; but the 
 site of the village was changed by Alexander, fourth 
 Duke of Gordon. Among the most conspicuous build- 
 ings are the parochial church, and a highly-ornamented 
 episcopal chapel on the north side of the village, recently 
 built and endowed by the Duchess of Gordon, and con- 
 sisting of two stories, surmounted with two spires; the 
 upper story is used for public worship, and the ground- 
 floor is occupied as an infant school, and contains apart- 
 ments for the teacher. There are also a Roman Catho- 
 lic chapel, and a subscription library. The great road 
 from Edinburgh to Inverness passes through the vil- 
 lage ; and annual markets are held, partly for the sale 
 of horses, but especially for black-cattle, on the third 
 Wednesday in January, the fourth in March and May, 
 the second in August, and the fourth in October and 
 December. In the neighbourhood is a spacious man- 
 sion for the lessees of a salmon-fishery on the Spey. 
 with a range of apartments in an extensive court, con- 
 veniently fitted up, and supplying every facility for the 
 operations connected with this important branch of 
 traffic : the produce, valued at several thousand pounds 
 a year, is sent to London packed in ice, and employs 
 
 (
 
 FO DD 
 
 FOOD 
 
 regularly, during the season, eight smacks in the con- 
 veyance. 
 
 Gordon Castle, until lately the seat of the Dukes of 
 Gordon, whose title has become extinct, and now a pos- 
 session of their heir of entail and representative, the 
 Duke of Richmond, is considered the most magnificent 
 and princely mansion north of the Firth of Forth. This 
 edifice was originally a gloomy tower, situated in the 
 centre of a morass called the Bog of Gight, and accessible 
 only by a narrow causeway, and a drawbridge. It is 
 now a vast structure, of which the exterior measures 570 
 feet in length, and the building consists of four lofty 
 stories, with spacious two-storied wings, and connecting 
 galleries or arcades of similar height. From behind the 
 centre rises a ponderous square tower of the eleventh 
 century, nearly ninety feet high, overlooking the stately 
 pile, which is faced on all sides with freestone, and en- 
 circled by an embattled coping. The castle is approached 
 by an imposing gateway at the north end of the village, 
 and entered by a grand vestibule embellished with copies 
 of the Apollo Belvidere and the Venus de Medeci.a bust 
 of Homer, busts of Aurelius and Faustina, of Caesar and 
 Caracalla, one of a vestal virgin, and one of William Pitt, 
 each raised on a handsome pedestal of Sienna marble. 
 At the bottom of the great staircase are busts of Seneca 
 and Cicero, and of a grand-duke of Tuscany, a relative 
 of the Gordon family ; while on the first landing-place 
 is a gigantic wooden head of some ancient divinity of 
 the sea, with other objects of striking interest. The 
 state apartments are numerous and splendid, and 
 superbly furnished : the great dining-room is of the 
 most just proportions, and contains many fine paintings 
 and portraits, as do most of the other rooms, including 
 the library, where are several thousand volumes, various 
 ancient and valuable MSS., geographical and astrono- 
 mical instruments, and antique curiosities. There are 
 also a small theatre and a music-room. Among the 
 finest pictures may be mentioned those of Abraham 
 turning oif Ilagar and her son ; Joseph resisting Poti- 
 phar's wife ; St. Peter and St. Paul ; Dido and St. Ceci- 
 lia ; Ulysses and Calypso ; Bacchus and Ariadne ; Venus 
 and Adonis : a portrait of the last Duke of Gordon ; 
 and one of the second Countess of Huntly, daughter of 
 James I., and the lady through whom Lord Byron 
 boasted of having a share of the royal blood of Scotland 
 in his veins. 
 
 The park in which the castle stands is of great 
 extent, and presents every variety of surface, walks, 
 drives, meandering streamlets, groves, arbours, and 
 broad-spreading meadows ; while an almost intermin- 
 able forest extends over the mountain side in the dis- 
 tance. Among the trees are majestic rows of elm and 
 beech, and many of large dimensions, particularly the 
 limes, planes, the walnut, and horse-chesnut ; and there 
 are fine plantations of birch, larch, Scotch fir, and other 
 growing timber in a flourishing state. Before the castle 
 is a richly verdant sward, fringed with sweetly-scented 
 shrubs ; and the gardens around it occupy a space of 
 twelve acres, and are ornamented by rare plants, and 
 enlivened by a beautiful lake. To the north of the man- 
 sion is a military station, called the " Roman camp". 
 
 FODDERTY, a parish, in the county of Ross and 
 Cromarty, '2 miles (W.) from Dingwall ; containing, 
 with the villages of Auchterneed, Keithtown, and Mary- 
 burgh, the island of Balblair, and part of the quoad 
 451 
 
 sacra districts of Carnoch and Kinloch-Luichart, 2437 
 inhabitants. The name is probably derived from two 
 words in the Gaelic language, signifying a meadow along 
 the side of a hill, a description characteristic of the 
 celebrated valley of Strathpeffer, which is chiefly com- 
 prised in this parish. The ancient history of Fodderty 
 is very imperfectly known, but it appears to be closely 
 connected with that of the famous McKenzies, of whom 
 Roderick McKenzie was knighted by James VI.; George, 
 the grandson of Roderick, was made secretary of state 
 to Queen Anne, with the dignity of Earl of Cromarty, 
 and in I69S he obtained an act to annex all his lands 
 in Ross-shire to the county whence he derived his title. 
 Fodderty comprehended a large part of these lands ; 
 and thus it happens that, though locally situated in Ross, 
 it belongs to the county of Cromarty. The length of 
 the parish, from north to south, is about eleven miles ; 
 it is nine miles in breadth from east to west, and is 
 bounded by Dingwall on the east, by Coutin and Kin- 
 loch-Luichart on the west, by Kincardine and Kiltearn 
 on the north, and by Urray on the south. Strathpeffer, 
 which is principally in the parish, is nearly six miles 
 long and three-quarters of a mile broad ; it is encom- 
 passed by lofty hills, and watered by the Peffery rivulet. 
 In every direction the views from the eminences are very 
 fine. The lofty and massive Ben-Wyvis, 3426 feet high, 
 and partly in the parish ; Knock-Farril, on which is a 
 strikingly marked vitrified fort; the vale of Strathpeffer, 
 with its venerable castle ; the town of Dingwall, the 
 Firth of Cromarty, and the interesting scenery of Tulloch 
 Castle, interspersed in different directions with the round 
 tops of wild and rugged hills, all unite to complete a land- 
 scape of considerable interest. Loch Ussie, containing 
 several islands, and encompassed with thriving planta- 
 tions, is also a pleasing object. 
 
 The SOIL slightly varies, but in general it is found to 
 be a dark loamy mould, with a stiff clayey subsoil. A 
 large portion of the land is in a state of high cultivation ; 
 about 1000 acres are under fir and larch plantation, and 
 the remainder is hill pasture. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £6092. The strata differ con- 
 siderably, exhibiting gneiss on the higher grounds, and 
 in the lower parts red sandstone and conglomerate ; in 
 many places is a slaty rock with black whinstone, and 
 in others a bituminous schist, mixed with pyrites. The 
 noble mansion of Castle-Leod, built by Sir Roderick 
 Mc Kenzie in I6I6, was the residence of the Earls of 
 Cromarty (a title now extinct), and is of truly baronial 
 appearance, five stories high, and turreted. It stands at 
 the base of a hill beautifully rounded at the summit, 
 and in the midst of extensive parks adorned with 
 various kinds of trees, many of them of ancient growth 
 and gigantic stature. Among these is a chesnut-tree, 
 measuring at the bottom of its trunk twenty-four feet in 
 circumference ; the w idth of its branches is ninety feet. 
 There is a great variety of mineral springs in the parish, 
 but the most celebrated is the Strathpeffer Spa, which 
 has been brought into great repute within the last thirty 
 or forty years. It has two wells, one much stronger 
 than the other, both impregnated with sulphuretted hy- 
 drogen gas, and said to be highly efficacious in nervous 
 and dyspeptic complaints. A considerable number of 
 respectable houses have been built in the vicinity of the 
 spa, the fame of which has drawn many visiters. A 
 large and convenient pump-room was erected in 1819, 
 
 3 M 2
 
 FO GO 
 
 FORD 
 
 vhich is regularly supplied with the public papers ; an 
 hotel has been built at Blar-na-ceaun, within about half 
 a mile of the pump-room, and there is an inn also on the 
 east side with comfortable accommodations. An hos- 
 pital, or infirmary, has been formed, through the exer- 
 tions of J. E. Gordon, Esq., for the poor who resort to 
 the spa for the benefit of its waters : it can accommo- 
 date fifty persons. There is a penny-post in the parish ; 
 and between the months of May and October, during 
 the visiting season, a conveyance runs twice a day to 
 Dingwall, where it meets the Inverness coach. On the 
 river Conon is a salmon-fishery; andin the small stream 
 of the Peffery, black trout are frequently taken. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dingwall, synod of Ross. The stipend of 
 the minister is £'2.55, with a manse, built in 1796, and a 
 glebe and garden of thirteen acres : the patronage be- 
 longs to the Marchioness of Stafford, daughter of the 
 late John Hay Mc Kenzie, Esq., of Cromarty. Fod- 
 derty parish church, a plain but pleasing structure, built 
 in 1807, and enlarged in 1835, accommodates 600 per- 
 sons with sittings : the service is alternatively per- 
 formed in English and Gaelic. In the village of Mary- 
 burgh is also a church, recently erected, distant from 
 the parish church about five miles. A parochial school 
 is maintained, in which the classics and the ordinary 
 branches of education are taught ; the master has a 
 salary of £36, with a house, and £20 fees. Near Fod- 
 derty is Temple-croft, or Cro'wht-an-Tetim puil, in which 
 stone coffins containing skeletons have been found. On 
 the heights of the Hilton estate is a sepulchral cairn, 
 measuring '260 feet in circumference ; and in the same 
 neighbourhood are the remains of some Druidical tem- 
 ples. There are two huge stones on either side of the 
 church, vulgarly reported to have been thrown at his 
 enemies by the far-famed Fingal, the hero of Ossian, 
 and to have remained in their present position. Several 
 other relics of antiquity are to be seen in the parish. — 
 See Carnoch and Kinloch-Luichart. 
 
 FOGO, a parish, in the county of Berwick, 4 miles 
 (S. by W.) from Dunse ; containing 455 inhabitants, of 
 whom about 35 are in the village. This place, though 
 unconnected with any event of historical importance, 
 has some claim to antiquity : from a confirmatory char- 
 ter of Malcolm IV. in 1159, it is clear that the church 
 of Fogo had been granted previously to that time to the 
 monastery of Kelso. The parish is five miles in length 
 from east and west, and two miles and a half in average 
 breadth, comprising about 5000 acres, of which 4600 
 are arable, 300 woodland and plantations, and the re- 
 mainder meadow and pasture. Its surface is traversed 
 in the north by two parallel ridges of inconsiderable 
 height, between which the river Blackadder flows through- 
 out the whole length of the parish : on the south are 
 some extensive level tracts. The scenery is pleasingly 
 varied, and in parts enriched with timber of stately 
 growth. The Blackadder, rising in some mossy land in 
 the parish of Westruther (from which circumstance it 
 takes its name), runs in a direction from east to west, 
 and falls into the Whitadder in the parish of Edrora : it 
 abounds with eels and trout of a reddish colour, but 
 salmon are never found in its stream. There is a bridge 
 of one arch on the road to Dunse, built in 1664, lately 
 repaired, and which bears the name of the old family of 
 Cockburn of Langton. 
 45-2 
 
 On the higher land the soil is exceedingly fertile, con- 
 sisting principally of a deep black loam ; in the lower 
 lands it is thinner, and of inferior qualify, resting on a 
 retentive clay. The crops are oats, barley, wheat, and 
 turnips ; the system of agriculture is in an advanced 
 state, and the four-shift course of husbandry generally 
 prevalent. Bone-dust and other kinds of manure are 
 used in the cultivation of turnips. The lands have been 
 in great part thoroughly drained, and inclosed with hedges 
 of thorn ; the farm-buildings are substantial and well 
 arranged, and all the more recent improvements in the 
 construction of agricultural implements have been intro- 
 duced. Considerable attention is paid to the rearing of 
 live stock ; the cattle are partly of the short-horned, and 
 partly of the Highland breed, and the sheep mostly of 
 the Leicestershire. The plantations are fir, intermixed 
 with various kinds of forest-trees, the chief of which are 
 beech, birch, and lime. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in Fogo is £5851. Caldra House, the principal 
 mansion in the parish, is in the occupation of the pro- 
 prietor, the Hon. Capt. Cathcart ; and Charter Hall, a 
 neat summer seat, built by the late Henry Trotter, Esq., 
 of Morton Hall, is occasionally visited by the present 
 Mr. Trotter, especially during the shooting season. Com- 
 munication with the neighbouring market-towns and 
 other places is afforded by good roads, of which the 
 turnpike-road to Berwick, and to the suspension-bridge 
 communicating with Northumberland, passes through 
 the parish, and that from Coldstream to Dunse crosses 
 its western extremity. Fogo is ecclesiastically in the 
 presbytery of Dunse, synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and 
 in the patronage of the Crown : the minister's stipend is 
 £'219. 5. 10., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £18. 
 10. per annum. The church, situated on the banks of 
 the Blackadder, which flows past the churchyard, is an 
 ancient structure, repaired in 1755, and reseated in 1817, 
 and is adapted for a congregation of '200 persons. With 
 its surrounding gravestones, and the few cottages near, 
 the venerable building presents a perfect specimen of 
 sequestered rural beauty. The parochial school is wxU 
 attended ; the master has a salary of £'25. 13., with £20 
 fees, and a house and garden. Among the remains of 
 antiquity in the parish may be mentioned the old house 
 of Harcarse, situated on the borders of the parishes of 
 Edrom and Swinton, and formerly belonging to the 
 family of Hogg, now extinct. At the western extremity 
 of the parish, at a place named Chesters, are vestiges of 
 a Roman camp, the stones of which have been nearly all 
 removed. To the south of the parish, in a marshy tract, 
 some remains of a causeway have been discovered. 
 
 FORBES, Aberdeenshire. — See Tullynessle. 
 
 FORDEL-SQUARE, a village, in the parish of 
 Dalgety, district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 
 ■2^ miles (N. E.) from Inverkeithing ; containing 157 
 inhabitants. It lies on the western side of the parish, 
 and is connected with the Fordel coal-works, which 
 have been wrought for nearly 250 years, and where 
 nearly 70,000 tons of coal were latterly raised every year: 
 they are now discontinued. In the neighbourhood is a 
 picturesque waterfall ; and Fordel House, an elegant 
 mansion surrounded with extensive plantations, is only 
 a short distance from the village. 
 
 FORDOUN, a parish, in the county of Kincardine, 
 11 miles (\V. S. W.) from Stonehaven; containing, with 
 the village of Auchinblae, 2342 inhabitants, of whom 
 
 i
 
 FORD 
 
 FORD 
 
 34 are in the Kirktown. This place, which is of remote 
 antiquity, is svipposed to have derived its name, signi- 
 fying in the Gaelic language the " front hill", from the 
 situation of the church on the brow of the hill of 
 Fenella, in front of the Grampian range. The parish, 
 or part of it, had also the appellation of Paldy, from 
 the dedication of an ancient chapel to St. Palladius, 
 who was sent from Rome in the fifth century to oppose 
 the Pelagian heresy, and who, upon very doubtful au- 
 thority, is said to have fixed his residence here. Of this 
 chapel, on a pilgrimage to which, to visit the shrine of 
 the saint, Kenneth III. was murdered by Dame Fenella, 
 as related in the article on Fettercairn, some memorials 
 are still preserved in the name of a well in the manse 
 garden, called the well of St. Palladius. A sculptured 
 stone, commemorative of the murder, appears to have 
 been erected in the chapel, but at the Reformation it 
 was removed, and for greater security concealed under 
 the pulpit of the old parish church, where it was after- 
 wards discovered on the rebuilding of that structure. 
 
 The PARISH, which is situated on the south side of 
 the Grampian mountains, is about eight miles in length, 
 and five and a half in average breadth, comprising an 
 area of 27,800 acres, whereof 11,500 are arable, 2160 
 woodland and plantations, and the remainder moorland 
 pasture and waste. Its surface is strikingly varied, 
 rising from the south-east by bold undulations towards 
 the Grampian range on the north-west, and broken 
 into deep glens and pleasing vales by numerous streams 
 descending from the mountains, and by the prominent 
 hill of Fenella, nearly in the centre of the parish. This 
 hill, which is one mass of sandstone, is about four miles 
 in length and a mile and a quarter in breadth, rising 
 in a gracefully curvilinear form to the height of 1200 
 feet above the level of the sea, and separated by the 
 picturesque vale of Strath-Fenella from the Grampians, 
 which in this parish do not attain an elevation of more 
 than 1500 feet. The rivers are the Luther and the 
 Bervie. Of these, the Luther has its source in the hills 
 behind Drumtochty, and flowing to the village of 
 Auchinblae, where it receives a stream from Glenfar- 
 quhar, takes a southeastern direction to Fordoun 
 House, beyond which it changes its course to the west, 
 and flows through the parish of Laurencekirk into the 
 North Esk. The Bervie has its source in the hills of 
 Glenfarquhar, and running to the south-east, by Glen- 
 bervie House, winds round the base of the hill of Knock, 
 and after a devious course flows through the parish of 
 Bervie into the sea. Among the small streams that 
 descend from the Grampians, the principal are the burn 
 of Craigniston, which for some distance separates the 
 parish from Fettercairn ; and the Ferdun, formed by two 
 burns which unite at Clattering Briggs, and, after washing 
 the western base of the hill of Fenella, fall into the Luther. 
 The Luther and the Bervie both abound with small 
 trout, and salmon are occasionally found in the latter. 
 
 In the lower grounds the soil is a tenacious clay, of 
 moderate fertility ; along the bases of the hills, a deep 
 rich loam ; and on the higher grounds, a brown gra- 
 velly loam : the crops consist of barley, oats, wheat, 
 beans, peas, potatoes, and turnips, with the various 
 grasses. The system of husbandry has been greatly 
 bettered under the auspices of the Fettercairn Club, 
 which includes also this parish and the parishes of 
 Laurencekirk and Marykirk. The lands have been 
 
 drained and partly inclosed ; the farm-buildings are 
 substantial and commodious, and all the more recent im- 
 provements in the construction and use of agricultural 
 implements have been adopted. Much attention is 
 paid to the management of the dairy-farms, and to 
 live stock. The cattle are of the pure Angus or the 
 Aberdeen polled breed ; the best are sent to the London 
 market, where they obtain a high price, and the re- 
 mainder to Edinburgh and Glasgow. The sheep, which 
 are reared solely on the hills, are of the black-faced or 
 mountain breed, with a few of the Cheviot recently 
 introduced ; and the horses, reared chiefly for agricul- 
 ture, approach very nearly to the Clydesdale breed. 
 In this parish the wood is of modern growth, with the 
 exception of some natural birch and coppice on the lands 
 of Drumtochty Castle ; the plantations consist of larch, 
 spruce, and Scotch firs, interspersed with oak, ash, elm, 
 beech, birch, and sycamore. The chief substrata are red 
 sandstone, greenstone, in which occasionally amethysts 
 are embedded, clay-slate, limestone, and freestone, of 
 which there are several quarries. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £12,96". 
 
 Drumtochtij Castle is a spacious castellated mansion 
 in the early English style, erected by George Harley 
 Drummond, Esq., at a cost of £30,000, and seated on 
 an eminence rising from the bank of the Luther, in a 
 richly-wooded demesne, tastefully laid out in walks 
 commanding much picturesque and finely- varied scenery. 
 Phesdo, an elegant mansion of Aberdeen granite, in the 
 Grecian style, with a handsome portico of the Doric 
 order, built by the late Alexander Crombie, Esq., of Aber- 
 deen, is beautifully situated in grounds embellished with 
 plantations, and near the base of Fenella hill, embracing 
 a fine view of the vale of Strathmore and the Grampians. 
 Monboddo, the birthplace of Lord Monboddo, is an an- 
 cient mansion, greatly improved by the late Mrs. Bur- 
 nett, his daughter. Fordoun House, together with the 
 farm, is in the occupation of a tenant ; as is also Castle- 
 ton. The Kirktown merely contains the church, the 
 manse, and school-house, with a few cottages and an 
 inn. Kincardine, once the county town, and the resi- 
 dence of the sheriff, who held his courts here till the 
 reign of James VI., when they were removed to Stone- 
 haven, has dwindled into an insignificant hamlet : the 
 ancient cross that stood in the market-place has been 
 removed, and placed in the village of Fettercairn. The 
 castle of Kincardine, the ruins of which are situated on 
 the adjacent lands of Castleton, was a celebrated palace 
 of several of the Scottish monarchs, of whom Kenneth 
 III., while here, was murdered by Dame Fenella; and 
 John Baliol is said to have been residing in this castle 
 when he abdicated the crown in favour of Edward I. of 
 England. From the ruins it appears to have been a 
 spacious quadrangular structure of great solidity, but 
 only the foundations of some of the walls are now re- 
 maining. The village of Auchinblae, situated to the east 
 of Strath-Fenella, contains several inns : the inhabitants 
 are partly employed in the spinning of flax and the 
 weaving of coarse linen ; and the place, which has a 
 thriving appearance, has been erected into a burgh of 
 barony, and is governed by a baron-bailie appointed by 
 the Earl of Kintore. Fairs are annually held in the pa- 
 rish, of which the most considerable is Paldy fair, for 
 horses, sheep, and cattle, which takes place in July on a 
 moor near the foot of the Grampians. Another fair for
 
 FORD 
 
 FORD 
 
 horses and cattle is also held in July, at Lammas muir, 
 
 in the western portion of the parish ; and at Auchinblae, 
 besides two annual fairs, are weekly markets during the 
 winter for grain and cattle. Facility of communication 
 is maintained by the Aberdeen railway, by the turnpike- 
 road from Aberdeen to Edinburgh through Strath more, 
 and by statute roads kept in excellent repair. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Fordoun, which holds its 
 sittings here, and the synod of Angus and Mearns. The 
 minister's stipend is £'249, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £12 per annum; patron, the Crown. Fordoun 
 church, erected in 1S29 at a cost of £3000, is a hand- 
 some structure in the later English style of architecture, 
 with a tower at the west end, ninety-three feet in height; 
 the interior is well arranged, and contains 1230 sittings. 
 The burying-ground is inclosed by a wall of masonry, in 
 which is an elegant gateway. There is a place of wor- 
 ship for members of the Free Church. The parochial 
 school, for which an appropriate building has been 
 erected, is attended by about seventy children : the mas- 
 ter has a salary of £35. 12., with a house and garden, 
 and the fees average £1.5 per annum. A parochial 
 library was established in 1827, which now contains 
 nearly 700 volumes ; and there is also a small library 
 belonging to the Sunday school. Alexander Crombie, 
 Esq., bequeathed £100, Mrs. Bogendollo £50, and the 
 late Mrs. Burnett of Monboddo £50, for the benefit of 
 the poor. Close to Fordoun House are the remains of 
 a Roman camp, of which the praetorium is in a tolerably 
 perfect state ; near it have been found urns containing 
 ashes and half-burnt bones, a gold ring, and other relics 
 of Roman antiquity. In a secluded glen, not far from 
 Drumtochty, are some remains of a small friary ; and 
 on the hill above Newlands, and near Castleton, are 
 Druidical ruins. John of Fordun, author of the Scoto- 
 chronicon, appears to have been connected with the parish 
 by birth or residence : George Wishart, the martyr, was 
 a younger son of Wishart of Pittarrow in the parish ; 
 and Professor Beattie, brother of the author of The Min- 
 strel, was a native of the parish, where the poet himself 
 was for several years schoolmaster. Pittarrow House 
 was pulled down in 1S02. 
 
 FORDYCE, a parish, in the county of Banff; con- 
 taining, with the villages of Saudend and New Mills, 
 and the town of Portsoy,' 3442 inhabitants, of whom 
 243 are in the village of Fordyce, 2^ miles (W. S. \V.) 
 from Portsoy. The name of this place, which appears to 
 have undergone no variation since the most ancient 
 times, is supposed to be derived from the two Gaelic 
 words /«ar " cold ", and deas " south", which, from their 
 original appropriation as descriptive of the southern por- 
 tion of the parish, were subsequently used as a name for 
 the whole of it. The lands once belonged to the family 
 of Sinclair, but afterwards came into that of Ogilvie, in 
 which they have remained for about 400 years to the 
 present time. Sir Walter Ogilvie, in 1455, obtained 
 permission of James II., to fortify his house of Findlater, 
 situated here ; and the castle seems to have been regu- 
 larly occupied till nearly the end of the reign of James 
 VI., when it was in the possession of John Gordon, son 
 of the Earl of Huntly, who had received the castle and 
 estates from one of the Ogilvie family that had disinhe- 
 rited his own son. After much litigation and many se- 
 vere feuds, however, it returned to the former possessors, 
 454 
 
 chiefly through arbitration. During its occupancy by 
 Gordon, it was one of the places that refused to acknow- 
 ledge Queen Mary when she visited the northern districts, 
 in consequence of which she sent a party of 120 soldiers 
 against it, who were attacked by Gordon at Cullen, and 
 all of them either slain or routed. The district of Find- 
 later gave the title of Earl to its proprietors : the present 
 Earl of Seafield, who holds the estates, is grandson to 
 Sir Ludovic Grant, who married Lady Margaret, eldest 
 daughter of James, fifth Earl of Findlater. 
 
 Fordyce anciently comprehended the parishes of Or- 
 diquhill, Deskford, and Cullen, long since separated. It 
 is boimded on the north by the Moray Firth, and is 
 about seven or eight miles in length and from two to six 
 in breadth, comprising 18,670 acres, of which 9306 are 
 either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, .'>960 waste or 
 natural pasture, 1500 undivided common, and 1234 oc- 
 cupied by wood. The surface is diversified with hill and 
 dale, and several lofty elevations give to the scenery a 
 very bold and decided character. The principal of these 
 elevations are, the hills of Durn and Fordyce, nearly in 
 the middle of the parish, which extend in a form almost 
 semicircular from north-east to south-west, the former 
 rising about 700 feet above the level of the sea ; and the 
 hill of Knock, near the southern boundary, which, attain- 
 ing an elevation of between 1200 and 1400 feet, serves 
 at a considerable distance as a land-mark for mariners : 
 on the summit of it is a bed of peat-moss. Though not 
 precipitous, the coast is marked by a strong rocky outline, 
 broken by numerous caves and several headlands and 
 bays. The chief points are, the East and West heads, 
 taking their names from their relative positions with 
 respect to Portsoy ; and Logic head, at the western extre- 
 mity of the parish. The bays are Portsoy and Sandend, 
 the former possessing a secure and convenient harbour, 
 and the latter having about half a mile of sandy beach, 
 in which is Redhyth point, where small vessels find 
 anchorage and shelter. The streams are inconsiderable, 
 comprising only the burn of Boyn, which marks the 
 eastern boundary of the parish ; the burn of Durn, which 
 joins the sea at Portsoy ; and the burn of Fordyce, fall- 
 ing into the bay of Sandend. 
 
 The SOIL, which is incumbent on strata of almost 
 every description, comprehends strong clay and light 
 and clayey loam. It is wet and cold in the southern 
 quarter, but rich and fertile about the coast, producing 
 all kinds of grain, with potatoes, turnips, hay, and flax. 
 The cattle are chiefly a cross between the old Banffshire 
 and the Buthan breeds : their improvement has been 
 greatly promoted by premiums given by the Banffshire 
 Farmers' Club and the Highland Society ; and a decided 
 advantage has been obtained by the introduction of the 
 Teeswater bull. The sheep are the Cheviots, with a few 
 of the native black-faced. The horses are in general of 
 the ordinary kind, with the exception of those bred from 
 Clydesdale mares, which are very superior in strength 
 and appearance. Though the fences and farm-buildings 
 are still to a great extent in a defective condition, much 
 has been done within the present century in the way of 
 agricultural improvement, especially by draining. Up- 
 wards of 10,000 yards of ditches, and nearly 20,000 
 yards of drains, have been completed on one farm since 
 1837, independently of 1600 yards of marsh ditches cut 
 in another part. Bone manure has been introduced, and 
 several threshing-mills erected. The annual value of
 
 FORD 
 
 FO R F 
 
 real property in Fordyce is £8/12. The parish is of 
 considerable importance in a geological point of view. 
 It is celebrated for its extensive strata of serpentine rock, 
 of which there are immense beds, and which, admitting 
 of a very fine polish, has long been a favourite material, 
 not only in Britain, but also in many parts of the conti- 
 nent, for the manufacture of various kinds of ornaments. 
 In the palace of Versailles, where it is known by the 
 name of Scottish marble, it has been employed in the 
 construction of several chimney-pieces. Among the 
 numerous geological varieties are hornblende, syenite, 
 granite, felspar, mica- slate, quartz, and clay-slate; also 
 limestone with veins of granite, and small portions of 
 magnetic iron-ore. The plantations are princi()ally larch 
 and Scotch fir, with some ash, the last of which is found 
 in a thriving condition near the ancient castle of the 
 Boyn. The seats are, Birkenbog, an old plain building, 
 inhabited by the tenant who rents the farm ; and Glass- 
 augh, a neat and spacious modern mansion, recently 
 much enlarged and improved. The village of Fordyce 
 was made a burgh of barony in 1499. About fourteen 
 miles of turnpike-road run through the parish, branch- 
 ing off in various directions to Banff, CuUen, Keith, and 
 Huntly ; and there are several good substantial bridges. 
 Two fairs are held ; one in November, for cattle and for 
 hiring servants, and the other in December, for cattle 
 only. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Fordyce, synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of the 
 Earl of Seafield. The stipend is £226 ; and there is a 
 manse, with a glebe of two acres and a half, valued at 
 £5 per annum, and a croft of five acres, called the 
 Vicar's Croft, bequeathed in 1,59.5 for the use of the mi- 
 nister. Fordyce church, built in 1804, contains 1050 
 sittings. The parochial school affords instruction in 
 Greek, Latin, mathematics, and all the branches of a 
 useful education ; the salary of the master is £34 ; he 
 has also ten acres of land, left by Thomas Menzies of 
 Durn, and receives about £30 in fees. Walter Ogilvie 
 of Redhyth, in 16*8, bequeathed land for the establish- 
 ment of bursaries at the parochial school, and at King's 
 College, Aberdeen ; in the former there are seventeen, 
 extending to five years each. George Smith, who was 
 born in the village of Fordyce, established nine bursaries 
 in his native parish, likewise of five years' duration ; 
 they commenced in 1 801, and are worth £25 per annum 
 each, appropriated to board, clothing, and education : he 
 also left £25 a year to the minister for superintending 
 the youth on the foundation. The Rev. James Stuart, 
 rector of Georgetown and All Saints, in South Carolina, 
 left £1200 for a bursary in the school of Fordyce, for 
 boys bearing the name of Stuart : this endowment com- 
 menced in 1810. There are two other small bursaries, 
 founded by James Murray. The chief relic of antiquity 
 is the old castle of Findlater, situated on a rock almost 
 surrouuded by the sea, and which appears to have been 
 of considerable strength : the lower apartments, cut out 
 of the solid rock, are strongly arched ; and on the south 
 were formerly a fosse and drawbridge, beyond which, at 
 the distance of about one hundred yards, there was an 
 outwork for greater security, consisting of a fosse and 
 rampart. On the hill of Durn arc the remains of an en- 
 campment, supposed to have been thrown up by the Danes; 
 and some urns, containing ashes and bones, have been 
 occasionally dug up in different places. There are several 
 455 
 
 chalybeate springs, the most celebrated being that called 
 "John Legg's Well ".which is much frequented in sum- 
 mer both by natives and strangers. Sir James Clark, 
 physician to Her Majesty, and Dr. John Forbes, physi- 
 cian extraordinary to Prince Albert, were educated at the 
 parochial school. 
 
 FORFAR,a royal burgh, 
 the county town, a parish, 
 and the seat of a presbytery, 
 in the county of Forfar, 70 
 miles (N. by E.) from Edin- 
 burgh ; containing 9620 in- 
 habitants, of whom 8362 
 are within the burgh. This 
 place, in some ancient docu- 
 ments, is noticed under the 
 designation of Forfar-Res- 
 tenneth ; while in others 
 Forfar and Restenneth are 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 separately mentioned as distinct parishes, the union of 
 which, though extremely probable, has not been proved by 
 any authentic evidence. In the latter part of the seventh 
 century,a priory was founded at Restenneth, which became 
 subordinate to the abbey of Jedburgh, and of which there 
 are still some remains on the west side of the loch of Res- 
 tenneth. In this establishment Alexander I. deposited the 
 public records that had been placed by King Fergus in the 
 abbey of lona, or Icolmkill, which was difficult of access. 
 In 1296, Robert, then prior, took the oath of fealty to 
 Edward I. of England. The priory appears to have been 
 well endowed, and to have had considerable possessions 
 in the neighbourhood ; it flourished till about the year 
 1652, when the right of patronage of the church was 
 purchased from the prior by the magistrates and council 
 of the burgh. 
 
 Forfar seems to have been a royal residence at a 
 very early period of history. Malcolm Canmore is said 
 to have held parliaments in the castle, situated on an 
 eminence to the north of the town, where he resided 
 with his court ; and his queen, Margaret, had a palace 
 on a small island in the loch of Forfar, called the Inch, 
 on which, for many years, the inhabitants of the burgh 
 were in the habit of celebrating an annual festival in 
 honour of her memory. In 130~, Robert Bruce, on his 
 route from Aberdeen to Angus, assaulted the castle of 
 Forfar, at that time strongly garrisoned by the English ; 
 and, taking it by escalade, put the whole of the garrison 
 to the sword, and ordered the fortifications to be levelled 
 with the ground. In 1647, the burgesses opposed the 
 surrender of the person of Charles I. into the hands of 
 the republican party, and, through their provost, entered 
 a warm protest against that measure in parliament. 
 When the city of Dundee was taken by the army of 
 General Monk, a detachment of English forces was sent 
 to Forfar, who plundered the town, and destroyed all 
 the charters and public records of the burgh. In con- 
 sideration of the loyalty of the inhabitants, Charles II., 
 in 1665, by charter renewed and confirmed the ancient 
 rights of the burgh. Towards the close of the seven- 
 teenth century, frequent trials and executions for witch- 
 craft occurred here, the last of which was in 1682 : the 
 place of execution, a small hollow to the north of the 
 town, still retains the name of the "Witches' Howe", 
 and the iron bridle that was fastened round the head of 
 the victims on these occasions is yet preserved.
 
 FO R F 
 
 FORE 
 
 The TOWN is situated on the road from Aberdeen to 
 Perth. It consists of two principal and several smaller 
 streets, in which are numerous well-built houses, many 
 of them of handsome appearance ; and within the last 
 half century very great improvements have taken place. 
 The streets are lighted with gas, and the inhabitants are 
 supplied with water from wells sunk by subscription of 
 individuals, aided by grants for the purpose by the ma- 
 gistrates of the burgh. A subscription library is sup- 
 ported : there are a newsroom and a mechanics' reading- 
 room, both containing a good collection of books ; and 
 a horticultural society has been established. The inha- 
 bitants are chiefly employed in the linen manufacture, 
 the principal articles being sheetings, Osnaburghs, and 
 dowlas, in the weaving of which about 3000 persons are 
 regularly employed in their own dwellings : the quantity 
 of linen annually woven is about 14,000,000 yards, and 
 the average value £300,000. A great part of this manu- 
 facture is exported to the West Indies and South Ame- 
 rica by the manufacturers themselves, and Lancashire 
 is largely supplied with the sheetings. There are ale 
 and beer breweries, and various shops for the supply of 
 the vicinity with different articles of merchandise. A 
 vast increase of general traffic took place after the open- 
 ing of the railway between Forfar and Arbroath, for the 
 conveyance of goods and passengers, on the 3rd of Janu- 
 ary, 1839 : the line is fifteen miles in length, with a rise 
 upon the whole distance of about '2'20 feet. Further 
 facilities of communication were afforded by the opening 
 of the Scottish Midland Junction railway, from Forfar 
 to Perth, in August 1847 : the line is thirty-two miles 
 and a half in length. Among the roads is an excellent 
 one from Forfar to Kirriemuir, opening a communication 
 with a large Highland district. The principal market is 
 on Wednesday ; and there is a market, well supplied 
 with provisions of all kinds, on Saturday. Fairs are 
 held on the last Wednesday in February, the second in 
 April, and the first in May, for cattle and horses ; on the 
 day after Dunsmuir fair, in June, for cattle ; on the first 
 Tuesday in July for sheep, on the Wednesday following 
 for cattle, and on Thursday for horses ; on the first 
 Wednesday in August, for cattle ; the last Wednesday 
 in September, for horses and cattle ; and the third 
 Wednesday in October and the first in November, for 
 cattle. Being in the very centre of the county, Forfar 
 is remarkable for the e.\tent of its cattle markets. From 
 the beginning of November until the end of March, the 
 Wednesday weekly market is a large fair ; and the other 
 fairs enumerated are frequented by dealers from the 
 southern counties and from England. 
 
 The BURGH, by charter of Charles II., is governed by 
 a provost, two bailies, a treasurer, and a town council of 
 fifteen members. There are five incorporated companies, 
 the glovers, shoemakers, tailors, weavers, and hammer- 
 men, the terms of admission to which vary considerably. 
 The fee paid on admission as a burgess is, for a stranger 
 £2, and for the son of a freeman, the husband of a free- 
 man's daughter, or an apprentice, £1. The jurisdiction 
 of the burgh extends over the whole royalty, which is 
 about two miles and a half in length and half a mile in 
 breadth, and also over the liberties. The bailies hold a 
 court for the determination of civil pleas to any amount, 
 in which they are assisted by an assessor, and also a 
 criminal court, chiefly for the trial of petty offences 
 (though by charter their jurisdiction extends to capital 
 456 
 
 crimes) ; but from the conducting of causes by written 
 pleas, the expenses of process tend greatly to diminish 
 the number of suits in the latter court. As the county 
 town, the sessions are held here, as well as the election 
 of the representative for the shire in parhament. A 
 handsome building has been erected at an expense of 
 £5000, containing a sheriffs court, with offices for the 
 sheriff's clerk, and rooms for the juries and for the re- 
 cords. The town and county hall, situated in the cen- 
 tre of the town, is a neat edifice, comprising halls for 
 the transaction of public business, and courts for hold- 
 ing the sessions. In the same building is the old gaol, 
 now converted into an excellent market-place, as, from 
 its inadequacy as a gaol, ground was lately purchased 
 to the north of the town, on which a more spacious and 
 better arranged prison was erected. Forfar, with Mon- 
 trose, Arbroath, Brechin, and Bervie, returns one mem- 
 ber to the imperial parliament : the elective franchise, 
 under the Reform act, is vested in the resident £10 
 householders of the burgh ; and the number of these is 
 250. 
 
 The PARISH is situated on the south side of the valley 
 of Strathmore, and is about six miles in length from 
 north to south, and five miles in breadth. Its surface, 
 though generally level, is varied by the hill of Balma- 
 shinar, near the town, and by the hill of Lower, at the 
 southern extremity of the parish, the former of which 
 commands an extensive and richly-diversified prospect. 
 The rivers are the Lunan and the Venny, which, though 
 abounding in trout, are in their course through the pa- 
 rish but X ery inconsiderable streamlets. There were 
 formerly three large lakes, Restenneth, Fithie, and the 
 loch of Forfar ; but the two first have been drained for 
 marl, and the last, though still a fine sheet of water, has 
 been much reduced in extent. The soil, with the excep- 
 tion of a tract of wet clay in the south, is generally 
 light and dry, producing excellent crops of oats and 
 barley, turnips, and various other green crops. The 
 lands are in a good state of cultivation ; the use of shell- 
 marl found in the lakes has been almost superseded by 
 the use of lime, and the system of husbandry has greatly 
 advanced. The annual value of real property, in the 
 parish is £12,015. In the south-west, and also in the 
 eastern parts of the parish, freestone of good quality for 
 building is extensively wrought. From the quarries 
 here, has been taken the stone of which most of the 
 houses in the town, and the steeple of the church, are 
 built ; and large quantities of flags for pavement, and of 
 thin sandstone for roofing, are sent by railroad to the 
 ports of Arbroath and Dundee, whence they are shipped 
 to various parts of the kingdom. The only mansion- 
 house is that of Lower, built by a former Earl of North- 
 esk, and still the property of his descendants, the family 
 of Carnegie, Earls of Northesk. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Forfar, synod of Angus 
 and Mearns. The minister's stipend is about £300, 
 with a manse, a handsome modern building, and a glebe 
 valued at £20 per annum ; patrons, the Town Council. 
 Forfar church, originally built in 1791, and partly re- 
 built, and made more commodious, in 1836, is a plain 
 substantial edifice, with a steeple erected in 1814, in 
 which are three old bells, the gift of Mr. Strang, a na- 
 tive of the town, and a merchant of Stockholm : the 
 interior contains about 1800 sittings. St. James' church
 
 FO R F 
 
 FO R F 
 
 was erected in 1836, at an expense of £1200, raised by 
 subscription ; and a portion of the parish, comprising an 
 area about a quarter of a mile long, and of nearly equal 
 breadth, and containing a population of 2236, was as- 
 signed to it as an ecclesiastical district. It is a neat 
 structure, containing 1 1 34 sittings ; and the stipend of 
 the minister, derived from seat-rents, is £80 per annum, 
 to be advanced to £100 when the funds will permit: 
 patrons, the Male Seat-holders, being Communicants. 
 An episcopal chapel was built in 1824; it has 380 sit- 
 tings, and is under the superintendence of the Bishop of 
 St. Andrew's, Dunkeld, and Dunblane. There are also 
 places of worship for members of the Free Church, the 
 United Presbyterian Synod, and Independents ; and an 
 old house has been purchased, and fitted up as a Roman 
 Catholic chapel, in which service is occasionally per- 
 formed. The parochial school aflFords instruction to 
 about eighty children ; the master has a salary of £34, 
 with an allowance of £8. 15. in lieu of a house and gar- 
 den, and the fees average £2.5 per annum. There are 
 likewise three burgh schools, the master of one of which 
 has a salary of £40 ; the other masters have each a 
 schoolroom rent free, but are not in receipt of any 
 salary. Within the last few years, the magistrates have 
 built two handsome and commodious schoolrooms, 
 where education for the working classes is afforded at a 
 cheap rate : these schools are numerously attended. A 
 considerable income arises from land purchased with a 
 bequest of Mr. Strang's, in 16.50, for distribution among 
 the poor. In the vicinity are the remains of two Roman 
 camps, between which a causeway was continued for 
 some way through this parish : and nearly at an equal 
 distance from each are remains of a Pictish camp of 
 large extent, of which the rampart and fosse, extending 
 from Loch Forfar to Loch Restenneth, are said to have 
 been formed by the Picts under Feredith, to protect 
 their camp from the Scots under Alpin, prior to the 
 battle of Restenneth. 
 
 FORFARSHIRE, a maritime county, in the east of 
 Scotland, bounded on the north by the counties of 
 Aberdeen and Kincardine ; on the east, by the German 
 Ocean ; on the south, by the Firth of Tay ; and on the 
 west, by Perthshire. It lies between ,56° 27' and 57° 
 (N. Lat.) and 2° 28' and 3° 22' (W.Long.), and is about 
 38| miles in length, and 37^ in extreme breadth, com- 
 prising an area of 840 square miles, or 537,600 acres ; 
 38,255 houses, of which 36,184 are inhabited ; and con- 
 taining a population of 170,520, of whom 79,375 are 
 males and 91,145 females. This district, which was 
 formerly called Angus, is said to have received that 
 name from Angus, brother of Kenneth II., to whom it 
 was granted by the king, after his victory over the Picts ; 
 and it continued for many generations to be governed 
 by a succession of thanes, of whom Macbeth, the asso- 
 ciate of Macduff, Thane of Fife, in the murder of Dun- 
 can, was the last. The county was subsequently go- 
 verned by earls, of whom (iilchrist, the first earl, flou- 
 rished in the reign of Malcolm III., and was succeeded 
 by his son, the second earl, who attended David I. at 
 the battle of the Standard, in 1138. The earldom was 
 conferred by Robert II. on the Douglas family ; and at 
 present the shire gives the inferior title of Earl to the 
 Duke of Hamilton. Prior to the abolition of episcopacy, 
 the county was included in the diocese of Brechin ; it is 
 now in the synod of Angus and Mearns, comprises 
 Vol. I.— 457 
 
 several presbyteries, and about fifty-five parishes. For 
 civil purposes it is divided into the districts of Forfar 
 and Dundee, in each of which towns is a resident sheriff- 
 substitute. It contains the royal burghs of Forfar, 
 which is the county town, Dundee, Arbroath, Montrose, 
 and Brechin, and the market-towns of Kirriemuir and 
 Glammis, with several smaller towns and villages. Under 
 the act of the 2nd of William IV., the county returns 
 one member to the imperial parliament. 
 
 The SURFACE is boldly varied. Towards the north 
 it forms part of the Grampian range, here called the 
 Binchennin hills, of which Catlaw, the highest, has an 
 elevation of 2264 feet above the level of the sea : this 
 portion of the county, known as the Braes of Angus, is a 
 wild pastoral district. Nearly parallel with these heights 
 are the Sidlaw hills, apparently a continuation of the 
 Ochil range, and which are of less height than the 
 Binchennin, few of them attaining more than 1400 feet 
 above the sea. Between the two ridges is the beautiful and 
 fertile valley of Strathmore, popularly called the Howe 
 of Angus, extending nearly thirty-three miles in length, 
 and varying from six to eight miles in breadth, diver- 
 sified with gentle eminences, fruitful fields, pleasing vil- 
 lages, and handsome seats surrounded with flourishing 
 plantations. The district between the Sidlaw hills and the 
 coast is a level tract of great fertility, from three to eight 
 miles in breadth, and in the highest state of cultivation. 
 The principal valleys are Glenisla, Glenprosen, Glenesk, 
 Lethnot, and Clova, all of which are watered by streams 
 descending from the mountains. The chief rivers are 
 the North and South Esk, which have their sources on 
 the northern confines of the county. Of these streams, 
 the former, issuing from Lochlee, receives the waters of 
 the Unich, which in its course forms numerous pictu- 
 resque cascades ; the North Esk then flows through the 
 vale of Glenesk, between banks crowned with trees of 
 birch, into the county of Kincardine, and falls into the 
 sea about three miles to the north of Montrose. Its 
 tributaries are the Luther, the Cruick, the West Water, 
 the Tarf, and the Mark. The South Esk has its rise 
 near that of the North Esk, and running through the 
 centre of the county, receives the Noran, the Lemno, 
 the Carity, and the Prosen, and joins the sea at Mon- 
 trose. The river Isla rises to the west of the sources of 
 the Esks, and after being fed by the waters of the Meigle, 
 the Dean, the Carbet, and the burn of Glammis, flows 
 westward into the Tay at Kinclaven. The Dighty and 
 the Lunan are of inferior character : the former issues 
 from some small lakes in the parish of Lundie, and runs 
 into the river Tay to the east of Broughty- Ferry ; whilst 
 the latter, having its source in the lakes of Rescobie and 
 Balgives, flows into the sea at Lunan bay. Most of the 
 rivers abound with trout and salmon, and the Lunan 
 with eels. There are also numerous lakes in the countj', 
 but few of them are more than a mile in circumference ; 
 the principal are Lochlee, Loch Brandy, Loch Forfar, 
 Loch Rescobie, and Loch Balgives. 
 
 About three-fifths of the land are under cultivation ; 
 20,000 acres are woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder mountain pasture and waste. On the hills 
 the soil is heathy moor, but in the valleys rich and fertile. 
 The lands have been greatly benefited by draining, and 
 abundant crops of every kind are raised : wheat, which 
 formerly was little cultivated, is now grown in large 
 quantities, and of excellent quality ; the various im- 
 
 3 N
 
 FORG 
 
 FO R G 
 
 provements in husbandry have been generally adopted, 
 and the system of agriculture is in a very advanced 
 state. Considerable attention is paid to live stock ; the 
 Angusshire breed of cattle is well known : numbers of 
 sheep of various breeds are pastured on the Grampian 
 and the Sidlaw hills, and on the former is reared a small 
 breed of horses called Garrons. The plantations consist 
 of oak, beech, birch, and other trees, which have nearly 
 superseded the larch ; and the improvement of the soil 
 has adapted it to the growth of timber of all kinds. In 
 this county the principal substrata are limestone, free- 
 stone, and sandstone of good quality for flags. The 
 limestone is extensively wrought in several places, but 
 its use in farming has in some degree been diminished 
 by the introduction of bone-dust, of which great quan- 
 tities are prepared at Arbroath and Dundee, and shell- 
 marl is found in the lakes, some of which have been 
 drained in order to procure it. Lead-ore was formerly 
 obtained in the upper part of the parish of Lochlee, and 
 copper-ore has been found in the Sidlaw range. The 
 seats are Glaramis Castle, Cortachy and Airlie Castles, 
 Camperdown House, Lindertis, Isla Bank, Grey, Care- 
 ston, Balnamoon, Brechin Castle, Panmure House, 
 Kinnaird, Dun, Rossie, Ethie, Guthrie, Dunnichen, Isla, 
 Craigo, Langley Park, and various others. The principal 
 manufactures are, the spinning of flax ; the weaving of 
 linen and the coarser fabrics, as huckaback, canvass, 
 dowlas, sheeting, and sacking, of which great quantities 
 are exported ; the manufacture of fine coloured thread ; 
 and the bleaching of linen, for which there are extensive 
 grounds on the banks of streams. There are large 
 tanneries, breweries, distilleries, and other works ; and 
 ship-building is pursued at the ports of Dundee, 
 Arbroath, and Montrose. Valuable fisheries are carried 
 on along the coast, and salmon-fisheries in the Firth of 
 Tay. Facility of communication is afforded by good 
 roads in various directions, and by railways, of which 
 the Dundee and Newtyle railway was the first con- 
 structed in the county ; the Arbroath and Forfar rail- 
 way was opened in 1839, and the Dundee and Arbroath 
 railway, nearly one continued level along the coast, in 
 1840. More recently have been opened the Dundee and 
 Perth line, the Forfar and Perth line, and the Aberdeen 
 line, of each of which there is a part within the county 
 of Forfar. The annual value of real property in the 
 county is £502,841, of which £312,201 are returned for 
 lands, £180,496 for houses, £5408 for railway com- 
 munication, £2389 for fisheries, £1385 for quarries, and 
 the remainder for other kinds of real property. There 
 are some remains of the cathedral of Brechin, and near 
 them a round tower supposed to be of Pictish origin ; 
 the county contains the ruins of numerous ancient 
 castles, of the abbey of Arbroath and similar religious 
 establishments, tumuli, cairns, Druidical altars, and va- 
 rious other remains of antiquity, which are described iu 
 the articles on the parishes. 
 
 FORGAN, or St. Phyllan's, a parish, in the district 
 of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 9 miles (N. E. by E.) 
 from Cupar ; containing, with the villages of East and 
 West Newport, and Woodhaven, 1219 inhabitants. This 
 place is said to have derived its name, anciently written 
 Forgound or Forgrund, and supposed to mean " fore- 
 ground ", from the elevated and conspicuous situation 
 which it occupies on the bank of the river Tay. For 
 many generations it was the property of the Nairnes, 
 458 
 
 who held distinguished offices in the state, and one of 
 whom was elevated to the peerage of Scotland in the 
 time of Charles I. The estate of St. Fort, with other 
 lands in the parish belonging to that aucient family, was 
 sold at the beginning of the last century. The title, 
 which became forfeited during the rebellion of 1745, 
 was restored in the reign of George IV. The St. Fort 
 estate is now in the hands of Henry Stewart, Esq. ; and 
 the only portion of the original possessions which is still 
 the property of the Nairne family, is the small estate of 
 Morton. Forgan parish is about six miles in length and 
 two and a half in breadth. It is bounded on the north 
 by the river Tay, and comprises about 5000 acres, of 
 which 4000 are arable and in profitable cultivation, 600 
 pasture and meadow, and 400 woodland and plantations. 
 The surface is in some parts pleasingly undulated, and 
 in others agreeably diversified with level plains. Of the 
 rising grounds the loftiest are the eminences of St. Fort 
 and Newton, which are about 300 feet above the level 
 of the sea. The scenery is richly varied, and from the 
 higher lauds are fine views over the river, which skirts 
 the parish for nearly four miles. The shore is bold and 
 rocky, and indented with several bays, the chief of which 
 are Woodhaven and Newport, where convenient harbours 
 have been constructed, and Wormit bay, which bounds 
 the western extremity of the parish. 
 
 The soil is generally fertile, consisting of black loam 
 interspersed with clayey mould, and in some parts of a 
 light gravelly kind, in which are found occasionally 
 large boulders of trapstone. In this parish, as in the 
 county generally, the system of agriculture is in a very 
 advanced condition ; the rotation plan of husbandry is 
 practised, and every improvement in the management of 
 the lands is speedily adopted. The crops are barley, 
 oats, wheat, potatoes, and turnips, which are usually 
 favourable and abundant ; and the surplus produce of 
 grain finds a ready sale in the markets of St. Andrew's, 
 Cupar, and Dundee. The cattle are principally of the 
 Fifeshire breed, with a slight mixture of the Angus, the 
 Ayrshire, and the Teeswater, which last, however, are by 
 no means suited to the soil ; the sheep are of the Cheviot 
 and Leicestershire breeds. Of late years the plantations 
 have been much extended, especially on the lands of St. 
 Fort and Tayfield ; they consist chiefly of fir, though 
 the soil is well adapted for oak, ash, chesuut, and beech : 
 there are few trees of remarkable growth, except some 
 yew-trees at Kirkton, which are unrivalled specimens of 
 the kind. The farm-houses and offices are mostly supe- 
 rior ; and several of them, of more recent erection, are 
 handsome and exceedingly convenient. Considerable 
 progress has been made in inclosing the lands, but much 
 yet remains to be done in this respect ; the fences are 
 principally of stone, with a few of hedges, and are gene- 
 rally well kept. The substrata are sandstone, whinstone, 
 and greenstone, the last of which is extensively quarried 
 for building and for other purposes. There is neither 
 freestone nor limestone in the parish, but lime for agri- 
 cultural uses is brought by sea from various places, and 
 freestone from the quarries in Angus. The greenstone 
 is fine grained, compact, and of deep colour ; and on the 
 banks of the river are rocks of amygdaloidal greenstone, 
 in which are found metals, and quartz resembhng agate. 
 The annual value of real property is £"914. 
 
 St. Fort, the residence of Mr. Stewart, is a spacious 
 and handsome mansion in the Elizabethan style of
 
 FO R G 
 
 FORG 
 
 architecture, recently erected, and pleasantly situated 
 in a demesne enriched with flourishing plantations. 
 Tayfield, the seat of Mr. Berry, is also a handsome 
 mansion, lately enlarged and emhellished, and beau- 
 tifully seated on the bank of the Tay, of which it com- 
 mands an extensive view, with the varied and romantic 
 scenery of the adjacent lands, thickly interspersed with 
 pleasing cottages. A salmon-fishery is still carried on ; 
 but since the prohibition of stake-nets, it is neither so 
 abundant nor so profitable as formerly, and at present 
 scarcely returns to the proprietor a rental of £1.50 per 
 annum : the fish, which are of very superior flavour, 
 and in great demand, are sent to Dundee, where they 
 are packed in ice and forwarded by steam-boats to 
 London. A very large shoal of herrings was formerly 
 found in the Tay, near Newport; but none have appeared 
 within the last fifty years. The weaving of linen is 
 carried on upon a limited scale, affording employment to 
 about twenty or thirty persons, who work at their own 
 homes for the manufacturers of Dundee. Facility of 
 intercourse with the. neighbouring market-towns is 
 afforded by the Newport line of the " Edinburgh, Perth, 
 and Dundee railway ", and by excellent roads, of which 
 the road to Edinburgh extends for nearly three miles 
 through the parish, commencing, like the railway, at the 
 ferry at Newport, from which place communication with 
 Dundee is maintained by steam-boats. A ferry from 
 Woodhaven to Dundee was also once kept up ; but 
 being attended with great inconvenience, an act of par- 
 liament was obtained some years since for its discon- 
 tinuance, and for the establishment of that of Newport 
 as the only ferry. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of St. 
 Andrew's, synod of Fife, and in the patronage of the 
 Crown : the minister's stipend is about £'230, with a 
 manse, and a glebe of about nine acres. The old church, 
 situated in a pleasing and sequestered spot, at the south- 
 ern extremity of the parish, at one time belonged to the 
 priory of St. Andrew's, and is said to have been built on 
 that site for the accotnmodation of a family residing in 
 the neighbouring mansion-house of Kirkton, and who 
 contributed largely towards the expense of its erection. 
 This edifice is now a ruin, a new church having been 
 erected in 1841 in a more central part of the parish. 
 There is a place of worship near Newport for a congre- 
 gation of Independents. Forgan parochial school affords 
 instruction to about I'iO children ; the master has a 
 salary of £34, with the fees, and a good dwelling-house 
 and large garden : an excellent school-house was re- 
 cently erected in a convenient situation, upon the com- 
 pletion of which the number of scholars considerably in- 
 creased. There are numerous cairns and tumuli, though 
 none of them have been fully explored ; and in forming 
 the road to Newport, several urns of rude workmanship 
 were discovered. 
 
 FORGANDENNY, a parish, partly in the county of 
 Kinross, but chiefly in that of Perth, 3^ miles (W.) from 
 Bridge-of-Earn ; containing 796 inhabitants, of whom 
 66 are in the village. This parish is about ten miles in 
 length and two in average breadth, and comprises 
 12,800 acres, of which 2000 have never been cultivated. 
 It is divided into the upper and lower districts : the 
 former comprehends a part of the Ochils, covering full 
 three-fourths of the surface of the parish ; and the 
 latter, stretching from the foot of these hills on the 
 45y 
 
 south to the river Earn on the north, consists of a well- 
 cultivated tract, somewhat similar in character to the 
 Carse of Gowrie. The scenery is good, from the beau- 
 tiful variations of the surface ; the land gradually rises 
 from the river southward, and the acchvities of the 
 Ochils by degrees attain the height of 1000 feet above 
 the level of the sea. Considerable beauty is likewise 
 conferred on the scenery by the course of the picturesque 
 Earn, which is well stocked with salmon, sea-trout, and 
 other varieties, with pike and eels. The May, also, a 
 fine mountain stream rising among the Ochils in Auchte- 
 rarder, enters the parish from the south, and after wind- 
 ing through it for several miles in a northern direction, 
 and forming some pretty cascades, runs off to the west 
 into the parish of Forteviot, among the beautiful and ro- 
 mantic " Birks of Invermay ": it contains a large supply 
 of fine trout. 
 
 The higher district is cold, its soil light, and though 
 it bears good crops of other grain, wheat is never sown 
 here; but on the lower grounds all kinds of white and 
 green crops are produced of excellent quality, the soil 
 being rich and strong. Much of the hilly waste, parti- 
 cularly on the estate of Condie, has been recently laid 
 down in excellent sheep pastures : some of the highest 
 grounds have been made to yield fine crops of turnips, 
 and furrow-draining has been much practised in the 
 lower parts of the parish, where, also, the farm-buildings 
 are almost entirely constructed after an improved method. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £5879, 
 of which £340 are for the Kinross-shire portion. Trap 
 rocks constitute nearly the whole of the substrata ; but 
 they are so soft and friable as to be almost useless, even 
 for the construction of stone fences, or any other pur- 
 pose except the repair of roads. The old red sandstone 
 lies under this rock, though at too great a depth to 
 admit of quarrying. In the upper district are to be seen 
 beautiful specimens of conglomerate, and numerous blue 
 and purple pebbles appear in the decomposed trap. A 
 thin vein of limestone exists on the estate of Dumbuils, 
 but on account of its sandy character, and the distance 
 of coal, it is not wrought. Copper is said to have been 
 formerly obtained in the wood of Condie, although no 
 traces of it are now visible. The natural wood covers 
 about forty acres, and 400 acres are in plantations, 
 comprising the trees usually grown in the country. 
 Freeland, the property of Lord Ruthven, is a modern 
 residence, having been remodelled about the year 1834; 
 and that of Condie, an ancient structure, has received 
 some recent additions : the other mansions are Rossie 
 and Torrance, the former erected about eighty or ninety 
 years since, and the latter about half a century since. 
 The population are entirely agricultural. Besides the 
 village of Forgandenny, there is a small hamlet in the 
 Ochils, called Path-Struie, or the Path of Condie. The 
 road from Stirling to Bridge-of-Earn passes through the 
 village, and the Scottish Central railway along the banks 
 of the river Earn, affording great facility for the convey- 
 ance of the produce, which is disposed of at Perth, New- 
 burgh in Fifeshire, i<cc. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Perth, synod of Perth and Stirling, and in the patronage 
 of the Crown : the minister's stipend is £200, with a 
 manse, and a glebe of six acres, valued at £1.5 per an- 
 num. Forgandenny church, a plain edifice of consi- 
 derable antiquity, was formerly one of the eleven pre- 
 
 3 N 2
 
 FO R G 
 
 F O R G 
 
 bendal churches of Dunkeld cathedral ; it has lately 
 undergone repair, and accom modates 410 persons. There 
 are places of worship for members of the Free Church 
 and the United Presbyterian Synod. The parochial 
 school, situated in the village of Forgandenny, affords 
 instruction in the usual branches ; the master has a 
 salary of £34, with a house and garden, and £10 fees. 
 There is also a school at the Path of Condie, instituted 
 by an act of the presbytery of Perth, dated 1660, and 
 confirmed by the privy council in 1663, empowering the 
 heritors to appropriate the vacant stipend of 1659 to its 
 endowment ; the money was placed at mterest for the 
 payment of the teacher, and was augmented by the Rev. 
 Mr. Willison, a late incumbent, who made a bequest of 
 a small field, producing £*. 10. annually. A library of 
 religious books, and one of miscellaneous works, are 
 attached to the parochial school. On the north side of 
 the Ochils is a hill called Castle-Law, on which formerly 
 stood an important fortification, supposed by some to 
 have been of the vitrified class, but considered by most 
 as Danish. Its boundary line, once formed by a circular 
 stone wall, circumscribes an area 170 yards in diameter. 
 The hill commands most extensive prospects, embracing 
 the mouth of the Tay, and the German Ocean, on the 
 east J Strathearn, to the Grampian mountains, on the 
 west ; a large part of the counties of Perth and Angus, 
 on the north and north-east ; and the Lomond hills, on 
 the south. 
 
 FORGLEN, a parish, in the county of Banff, 1 mile 
 (W. by N.) from Turriff, on the road to Banff; contain- 
 ing 771 inhabitants. This place is also called Teunan, 
 from St. Eunon, to whom a chapel, of which there are 
 still some vestiges remaining, is said to have been dedi- 
 cated. It is bounded on the south and east by the river 
 Doveron, which has its source in the mountains of Aber- 
 deenshire, and after receiving in its course numenms 
 streams from the higher grounds, falls into the Moray 
 Firth at Banff. The parish is five miles and a half in 
 length from south-east to north-west, and about four 
 miles in breadth, containing an area of 7'234 acres, of 
 which 3617 are in a state of profitable cultivation, 1433 
 in plantations, 1055 waste land and pasture, and about 
 1130 capable of being reclaimed and cultivated at a mo- 
 derate expense. Its surface is pleasingly undulated, and 
 the soil, though light, is fertile. The system of agricul- 
 ture is improved ; the principal crops are barley and 
 oats, and wheat has recently been raised, but not in 
 sufficient quantities to remunerate the grower. Consi- 
 derable attention is paid to the rearing of live stock : 
 the cattle are of the Aberdeenshire and Buchan breeds, 
 with some of the Teeswater, Dunrobin, and Galloway ; 
 the sheep are generally of the Highland breed, which 
 has been benefited by the introduction of the Cheviot, 
 Merino, and Leicestershire kinds. Much progress has 
 been made in inclosing the lands, but the chief fences 
 are of stone, and the farm-buildings are indifferent. 
 There are quarries of clay-slate in several parts, worked 
 for various purposes. The sahnon-fishery on the Dove- 
 ron was formerly extensive and profitable ; but it has 
 greatly diminished within the last few years, and the 
 annual rental for an extent of three miles of the river is 
 at present not more than £5. The annual value of real 
 property in Forglen is £3210. Over the several rivulets 
 that intersect the parish are bridges in good repair ; and 
 across the Doveron is a substantial bridge of red sand- 
 460 
 
 stone, erected in 18^6 at an expense of £2503, and con- 
 necting this parish with the post-town of Turriff. Peat 
 and wood are the principal fuel, but coal is brought 
 from Banff. There is a parochial library, containing a 
 valuable collection of books on religious and general sub- 
 jects ; and a savings' bank has been estabUshed, or rather 
 revived. 
 
 The parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Tur- 
 riff, synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of Sir 
 Robert Abercromby ; the stipend is £175. 5. 10., with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £14 per annum. Forglen 
 church, erected in 1806, and situated on the south- 
 eastern boundary of the parish, is in good repair, and 
 will accommodate a congregation of from 400 to 500 
 persons. The members of the Free Church have a place 
 of worship. The parochial school is well attended : the 
 salary of the master is £34, with about £30 fees, and a 
 house and garden ; also the interest of £100 bequeathed 
 by the Rev. George Bruce, minister of Dunbar, in 1793, 
 and a portion of the Dick bequest, producing about £30 
 per annum. There is likewise a female school, in which 
 children are taught to sew ; the building was erected by 
 subscription. The poor of the parish are eligible for 
 admission into the Aberdeen infirmary, for which a col- 
 lection is made annuaily at the church : there is also an 
 annual collection for the Assembly's India Mission and 
 the schools in the Highlands and islands. From some 
 ancient charters preserved by the family of Abercromby, 
 it appears that the lands of this parish and the patronage 
 of the church formerly belonged to the abbey of Aberbro- 
 thock ; and, as already stated, there are still remains of 
 an old religious house, by tradition assigned to St. Eunon. 
 At a short distance from the church are two barrows, 
 which have not been opened ; and in constructing a 
 road in 1827, an urn containing ashes was found. Three 
 similar urns have been found since, and others had been 
 found before. A silver coin of the size of a crown-piece, 
 with the date I67O, was lately discovered in the wall of 
 an old house ; it seems to have been current in the 
 electorate of Cologne. The former house of Forglen, 
 supposed to have been originally built about the year 
 1 346, had over the entrance the arms of Scotland, sculp 
 tured in stone, with various inscriptions ; the present 
 mansion, lately erected near the site of the former, which 
 is removed, is a spacious edifice, beautifully situated on 
 the bank of the Doveron, and adorned with fine old tim- 
 ber. In the parish is also the house of Caruousie. 
 
 FORGUE, a parish, in the district of Strathbogie, 
 county of Aberdeen, from six to seven miles (N. E. 
 by E.) from Huntly ; containing 2489 inhabitants. The 
 name of this place was originally written Forrig, and is 
 supposed to be derived from the Gaelic language. The 
 parish is bounded on the north by the river Doveron, 
 which separates it from Rothiemay in Banffshire, and 
 on the south by the Urie. It measures between nine 
 and ten miles in length, and is about six miles and a 
 half at its greatest breadth, from east to west; com- 
 prising 9000 or 10,000 acres mostly under tillage, and 
 a considerable extent of plantations, moor, and waste. 
 The surface is diversified with knolls and acclivities, 
 straths and holms ; and the scenery is consequently 
 picturesque and interesting : the Foudland hills, how- 
 ever, in the southern quarter, from their barren and 
 dreary aspect, being covered with stunted heath, give to 
 that part of the parish a bleak and uninviting appear-
 
 FO R G 
 
 FORK 
 
 ance. The Foreman, a hill of conical form with its sides 
 well wooded, rises in the northern district, near the Do- 
 veron, to the height of 1000 feet, and commands from 
 its summit extensive and varied prospects. Over this 
 hill is a path still known by the name of the Queen's 
 Road, it being recorded that Queen Mary, when she 
 journeyed north, in the year 1562, instead of going di- 
 rectly forward to Huntly Castle, as she originally in- 
 tended, here became impressed with fear of treachery, 
 relinquished her intention, and passed along the above 
 path to Rothiemay House, where she took up her quarters. 
 Rivulets flow in every direction, and after enlivening and 
 beautifying the lands, fall into the larger streams : many 
 of them abound with trout. 
 
 The SOIL comprehends sand, gravel, loam, clay, and 
 moss, and therefore differs very much in quality in differ- 
 ent parts. All kinds of grain and green crops are raised ; 
 the rotation system is practised, and most other agricul- 
 tural improvements have been introduced. Particular 
 attention has also been given to the rearing of cattle, 
 of which crosses between the pure Aberdeenshire and 
 the short-horned have proved very successful. Many of 
 the farms are neatly fenced, and all of them well culti- 
 vated ; and from the comparatively inland situation of 
 the parish, fourteen miles from the sea, with its orna- 
 mental and tastefully-arranged plantations, the appear- 
 ance of the district is particularly agreeable. The rocks 
 consist of the common stone found in most of the neigh- 
 bouring parishes, and limestone, the latter of which was 
 some time since extensively quarried. The annual va- 
 lue of real property in Forgue is £8540. In the parish 
 are the mansions of Cobairdy, Haddo, Corse, Drumblair, 
 Templeland, Auchaber, and Boynes-Mill, most of which 
 are well built ; but the mansion of Frendraught, formerly 
 the seat of the Crichton family, is the most distinguished 
 residence in point of situation and scenery. There are 
 si.v mills, and at Glendronach is a distillery. The turn- 
 pike-road from Huntly to Banff, and another leading from 
 Huntly to Aberdeen, pass through the parish ; the chief 
 communication is with Banff, Portsoy, Macduff, Inver- 
 ury, and Huntly, and Sunderland coal is occasionally 
 imported for fuel. Fairs are held for the sale of cattle 
 and sheep, and for general traffic, at Hawkhall, on the 
 third Tuesday in April, the last Thursday in May, and 
 the third Tuesday in September, all O. S. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Turriff, synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of 
 Alexander Morison, Esq., of Bognie. The minister's 
 stipend is about £190, with an excellent manse, and a 
 glebe of about twelve acres, valued at £18 per annum. 
 Forgue church, situated upon a gentle eminence, is a neat, 
 commodious, and substantial edifice, built in 1819, and 
 containing 900 sittings. The members of the Free 
 Church have a place of worship, and there is a small 
 episcopal chapel. The parochial school affords instruc- 
 tion in Latin and mathematics, with all the elementary 
 branches ; the master has a salary of £34, a house and 
 garden, a portion of the Dick bequest, and £20 fees. 
 There is a savings' bank ; and the poor not on the roil 
 enjoy the benefit of a charitable bequest of £'20 per an- 
 num. The antiquities comprise the remains of several 
 Druidical temples ; vestiges of a Roman redoubt, as is 
 supposed ; and the ruins of the ancient castle of Fren- 
 draught, at the conflagration of the tower of which, in 
 1630, Viscount Aboyne, eldest son of the Marquess of 
 461 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 Huntly, and four others, perished. The Admirable 
 Crichton, who flourished about the middle of the six- 
 teenth century, is said to have been born at Frendraught, 
 the principal seat of the family, and from which they de- 
 rived the title of Viscount. 
 
 FORRES, a royal burgh 
 and a parish, in the county 
 of Elgin, 12 njiles (W. by S.) 
 from Elgin ; containing 371 1 
 inhabitants, of whom '2844 
 are in the burgh. This place, 
 the name of which, in the 
 Gaelic language, is descrip- 
 tive of its situation on the 
 river and bay of Findhorn, 
 has by some historians been 
 identified with the J'aris of 
 Ptolemy, and is celebrated 
 for its ancient castle, in which Duffus, King of Scotland, 
 was treacherously murdered by the governor, in 966. 
 A battle is said to have occurred here about the com- 
 mencement of the eleventh century, between a party of 
 Danish invaders and Malcolm H. : it terminated in a 
 treaty, in commemoration of which an obelisk was raised, 
 called Sweno's Stone, elaborately sculptured with devices, 
 and which is still remaining in a very perfect state. Not 
 long afterwards, the forces of Duncan, King of Scotland, 
 were encamped on a moor in the vicinity of the town ; 
 and on his way to join that monarch, Macbeth, accom- 
 panied by Banquo, was met on an adjoining waste by 
 the weird sisters, as described by Shakespeare in his tra- 
 gedy of Macbeth. 
 
 The TOWN is situated on a moderately elevated ridge, 
 and comprises one long street called the High-street, 
 from which several smaller streets diverge on both sides : 
 it is intersected throughout its whole length by the road 
 from Elgin to Nairn, forming the High-street. The 
 streets are well paved, and lighted with gas ; and the 
 inhabitants are amply supplied with water. A public 
 library is supported by subscription, and has a good 
 collection of volumes : there is also a newsroom, well 
 furnished with journals and periodical publications ; and 
 a newspaper called " The Forres Gazette" is published on 
 the first Wednesday in every month. A masonic lodge 
 has been some time established, for which an elegant 
 building has been erected from a design by Mr. Simpson 
 of Aberdeen, containing a handsome ball-room, a supper- 
 room, and apartments for the meetings of the brethren. 
 A horticultural society under the patronage of the Earl 
 of Moray holds annual meetings in June and September, 
 when exhibitions of flowers, fruits, and vegetables attract 
 numbers of visiters from all parts. The environs abound 
 with pleasingly-diversified scenery ; and on the highest 
 of the richly-wooded Cloven hills, near the eastern ex- 
 tremity of the town, a lofty octagonal tower of three 
 stages, crowned with an embattled parapet, was erected 
 in 1806, by public subscription, to the memory of Lord 
 Nelson. No manufactures are carried on here, nor any 
 trade except such as is necessary for the supply of the 
 inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood : there are 
 numerous handsome shops, amply supplied with mer- 
 chandise of every kind. In the immediate vicinity are a 
 brewery and a distillery ; and in a powerful saw-mill for 
 timber, great quantities of hexagonal blocks for wood- 
 pavement have been prepared for the Loudon market, and
 
 FORK 
 
 shipped from the port of Findhorn, about five miles distant 
 from the town. The market, which is amply supplied with 
 grain, is on Tuesday ; and markets for butchers' meat and 
 fish are held daily. Fairs for cattle and horses occur on 
 the first Wednesdays in January and July, on the third 
 AVednesdays in February, April, May, and November, 
 on the fourth Wednesdays in August and September ; 
 and for hiring servants, on the Saturday before the 22nd 
 of November. Facility of communication is afforded by 
 the high road from Elgin to Nairn ; by a turnpike-road 
 to the sea-port village of Findhorn, at the mouth of 
 Findhorn bay, where the London and Leith steamers 
 regularly call ; by good district roads in various direc- 
 tions ; and by an elegant chain-bridge over the river 
 Findhorn, constructed at an expense of £7000, in 1831, 
 to replace the former bridge of stone, which had been de- 
 stroyed by flood in 1829. 
 
 The more ancient records of the corporation are lost ; 
 but there is evidence of the inhabitants having obtained 
 the privileges of a royal burgh by charter of William 
 the Lion or Alexander IL, which was renewed by James 
 IV. The government is vested in a council of seventeen, 
 including a provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, and a 
 treasurer ; who are all chosen under the provisions of 
 the Municipal Reform act. There are no incorporated 
 trades ; and the necessity for becoming a member of the 
 guildry, in order to qualify as a burgess, and for which 
 the entrance fee rose successively from £2. 10. to £13. 10., 
 is no longer enforced. The magistrates exercise juris- 
 diction in civil causes to any amount, and in criminal 
 matters for petty offences and breaches of the peace. 
 The town hall, erected in 1839, on the site of the ancient 
 tolbooth, in the centre of the High-street, is a handsome 
 structure in the later English style, with a square tower, 
 above which rises an octagonal turret surmounted with 
 a dome. It contains a spacious hall for holding the 
 courts, with apartments for the sheriff and justices, a 
 council-chamber, a record-room, offices for the town- 
 clerk, and accommodations for the post-office. The old 
 gaol, attached to the tolbooth, was removed on the erec- 
 tion of the present town hall ; and a small prison, con- 
 taining two or three cells for the temporary confinement 
 of criminals, has been built. Forres is associated with 
 the burghs of Fortrose, Inverness, and Nairn, in return- 
 ing a member to the imperial parliament : the number of 
 qualified voters in Forres is 160. 
 
 The PARISH, which is bounded on the north by the 
 bay of Findhorn, and on the west by the river of that 
 name, is about four miles in length, and from one to 
 three miles in breadth, comprising an area of 5200 acres, 
 whereof 3300 are arable, 1200 woodland and plantations, 
 and the remainder moorland pasture and waste. To- 
 wards the north-west the surface is a perfect plain, only 
 a trifling height above the level of the sea : in the cen- 
 tral portion it is diversified with gentle acclivities, ter- 
 minating in conical hills of moderate height; while on 
 the south-east the land becomes more elevated. The 
 river Findhorn has its source in the mountains of Inver- 
 ness, and after a course of considerable length, enters 
 this parish, and flowing northward, falls into the bay of 
 Findhorn. Another stream is the burn of Forres ; it 
 rises in the adjoining parish of Rafford, and running by 
 the town, near which it receives a small tributary, also 
 joins the bay. On the Findhorn is a lucrative salmon- 
 fishery belonging to the Messrs. Forbes of Aberdeen, 
 462 
 
 FORK 
 
 valued at £500 per annum ; it was greatly injured by 
 the flood in 1829, but has lately very much improved. 
 Along the margin of the bay and the banks of the river 
 the soil is a rich deep loam, with a slight admixture of 
 clay ; in the central parts of the parish, a light sand 
 which, under good management, is richly fertile ; and in 
 the higher grounds, a retentive clay, alternated with 
 sand and moss. The crops are wheat, barley, oats, pota- 
 toes, and turnips ; and considerable portions of the land 
 are cultivated as gardens, in which flowers and fruits of 
 every kind are raised with great success. The system of 
 husbandry is in a highly improved state, and some of 
 the waste ground has been made to yield luxuriant crops 
 of grain ; the farm-houses are substantially built of stone, 
 roofed with slate, and generally well arranged, and on 
 most of the farms are threshing-mills, one of which is 
 driven by steam. The cattle are not confined to any 
 particular breed, nor are the sheep, and many of the far- 
 mers change their live stock annually. Particular atten- 
 tion is paid to the management of the dairy-farms, for 
 the produce of which there is a large demand. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £8481. The plan- 
 tations consist of oak, ash, elm, plane, and beech, inter- 
 spersed with larch and Scotch fir, and there are some 
 fine specimens of trees on the lands of various proprietors, 
 particularly a stately avenue of ash-trees on the road to 
 Forres from the west. In this parish the chief substrata 
 are sandstone and limestone, the latter of which is quar- 
 ried on the farm of Mundole, where kilns have been 
 erected for burning it iuto lime for the farmers' use. 
 Sanqnhar House is a handsome mansion situated on an 
 eminence, about a mile southward of the town, in a 
 richly-wooded demesne enlivened by the windings of the 
 burn of Forres. Invererne, a mile north of the town, is 
 also a handsome modern residence, surrounded by thriv- 
 ing plantations. Forres House, a spacious mansion, is 
 at present in the occupation of a tenant. Drumduan is 
 an elegant villa to the east of Forres, commanding an ex- 
 tensive view of the surrounding country. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 limits of the presbytery of Forres, of which this place is 
 the seat, and of the synod of Moray. The minister's 
 stipend is about £274, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £25 per annum ; patron, the Earl of jMoray. Forres 
 church, a plain structure, was built in 17*5, and repaired 
 in 1839; it is lighted with gas, and contains 1000 sit- 
 tings. There are places of worship for the Free Church, 
 the United Presbyterian Synod, and Independents, and 
 an episcopal chapel. The parochial and burgh schools, 
 which are consolidated under the patronage of the cor- 
 poration, and held in the buildings of Anderson's aca- 
 demy, are conducted by three masters, to whom collec- 
 tively are paid salaries amounting to £120 per annum. 
 The academy, for which there is a handsome building in 
 the Grecian style of architecture in the High-street, was 
 founded in 1824, and endowed with property producing 
 £130 per annum, by the late Jonathan Anderson, Esq., 
 of Glasgow, for the education of children of the parishes 
 of Forres, Rafford, and Kinloss. Four schools are held 
 in the building, namely, the three parochial schools above 
 referred to, and the charity school founded by Mr. An- 
 derson. Of the ancient castle of Forres, which was de- 
 molished after the murder of Duffus, and subsequently 
 rebuilt, only some slight vestiges are remaining on a hill 
 to the west of the town. When it ceased to be a royal 
 
 1
 
 FORT 
 
 FORT 
 
 residence, it became the possession of the Earls of Moray, 
 from whom the castle and the property attached passed 
 to the Dunbars, hereditary sheriffs of Moray, who resided 
 in a building intended to form part of a new structure, 
 which, with the lands belonging to it, was afterwards 
 owned by the Earl of Seafield, and is now the property 
 of General Sir Lewis Grant. James Dick, Esq., who 
 bequeathed £140,000, the proceeds of which are divided 
 among the parochial schoolmasters of the counties of 
 Elgin, Banff, and Aberdeen, was a native of the town of 
 Forres. 
 
 FORT-AUGUSTUS, a village, a post-town, and for a 
 time a quoad sacra district, in the parish of Boleskine 
 and Abert.\rff, county of Inverness, 131 miles (N. W.) 
 from Edinburgh ; containing about 700 inhabitants. 
 This place is situated at the south-western extremity of 
 Loch Ness, in the middle of the county. It derives its 
 origin from the establishment of a garrison here in 17-9, 
 for the purpose of checking the proceedings of some 
 clans that were favourable to the house of Stuart ; Fort- 
 Augustus being the central of a chain of three forts, all 
 built with the same design, across the Highlands. The 
 name was given in honour of the then Prince of Wales, 
 father of George III. The fort stands on a peninsula 
 formed by the rivers Tarff and Oich : it is of a square 
 form, with bastions at the corners, on which twelve six- 
 pounders can be mounted ; and is defended by a ditch, 
 with a battery, a covert-way, and glacis. The barracks 
 are constructed for one field-officer, four captains, twelve 
 subalterns, and 280 rank and file. In 1745 the fort was 
 taken by the Highlanders, and dismantled, but was soon 
 repaired, and became the focus of some of those severe 
 military operations by which the Highlanders were com- 
 pletely subdued. It is now under the charge of a bar- 
 rack-master and a few soldiers from Fort-George, whither 
 the guns were removed some years since. The village is 
 seated behind the fort, on the slope of an alluvial terrace ; 
 and the scenery in the vicinity is altogether of a wild and 
 mountainous character. Over the Tarff is a bridge, kept 
 in repair by government. Fairs are held on the Monday 
 before the second Wednesday in June, and on the 20th 
 of September, or, if not on that day, on the Monday 
 before the 29th. A mission church, containing 368 sit- 
 tings, was biiilt about seventy or eighty years ago, partly 
 by subscription, and partly by aid from government : 
 the minister's salary is £7-4 per annum, chiefly paid by 
 the Committee for managing the Royal Bounty. An eccle- 
 siastical district comprising the whole of the ancient 
 parish of Abertarff was for a time attached to the church. 
 A commodious school-house and dwelling have been built 
 by subscription. On a hill to the north of Oich is a 
 Free church, a substantial and comfortable building, 
 overlooking the village, and forming its chief ornament; 
 it is seated for 444 persons, and under the same roof is an 
 excellent schoolroom, forty-eight feet long, and eighteen 
 feet broad. To the west of the village, and on the road 
 from Inverness to Fort-William, is a Roman Catholic 
 chapel, also a substantial building, seated for 250 persons. 
 Several Roman coins were discovered in 1767, 
 
 FORT-GEORGE, in the county of Inverness. — 
 See Campbelton. 
 
 FORT-WILLIAM, a royal fortress and a village, in 
 
 the parish of Kilmalie, county of Inverness, 30 miles 
 
 (S. \V.) from Fort-Augustus, and 135 (N. W. by W.) 
 
 from Edinburgh; containing 1091 inhabitants. This 
 
 463 
 
 place, called also Manjburgh in honour of the queen of 
 William III., in whose reign the fortress was erected, 
 and Gordonsburgh from the family of Gordon, on whose 
 lands the village was built, is situated at the eastern ex- 
 tremity of Loch Eil, near the base of Ben-Nevis, and in 
 the heart of a district abounding with wildly romantic 
 scenery. The fortress stands on the site of an intrench- 
 ment thrown up by General Monk, and consists of an 
 irregular triangle, defended by a glacis and fosse, with 
 two bastions, mounted with fifteen twelve-pounders. It 
 has a bomb-proof magazine, and barracks for the recep- 
 tion of two field-officers, two captains, four subalterns, 
 and a garrison of ninety-six non-commissioned officers 
 and privates. Fort- William was besieged by a party of 
 the rebels, under the command of Captain Scott, in 1746; 
 but after a resolute defence of five weeks, during which 
 six men were killed and twenty -four wounded, the assail- 
 ants raised the siege, and dispersed. A considerable 
 portion of the wall was undermined some few years since, 
 by the impetuous current of the river Nevis, descending 
 from Ben-Nevis ; and the structure has since that time 
 been gradually going into decay. 
 
 The village consists of a long narrow street, extending 
 along the margin of the lake, and intersected by various 
 smaller streets. Its inhabitants are chiefly supported 
 by the herring-fishery, for which the harbour affords 
 considerable facilities, and a quay has been constructed, 
 partly at the expense of the fishery commissioners, and 
 partly by private contributions. A public library, which 
 forms a tolerable collection of standard works, is sup- 
 ported by subscription ; and the village has some good 
 inns : one of the sheriffs-substitute, whose jurisdiction 
 extends over part of Argyllshire, resides in the village ; 
 and there are some families of respectability within the 
 fortress. Fairs are held for cattle and horses on the 
 second Wednesdays in June and November, and a fair 
 for sheep and wool on the Tuesday after the second 
 Thursday in July, all of which are well attended. A 
 church was recently erected, to replace a former that 
 had been pronounced unsafe ; it is a neat structure con- 
 taining 350 sittings, and the missionary has a stipend of 
 £100, of which £60 are paid by the Committee of the 
 Royal Bounty, £20 by the heritors, and the remainder 
 by the congregation. There are a place of worship for 
 members of the Free Church, an episcopal, and a Roman 
 Catholic chapel ; and the parochial school is situated 
 in the village. During Her Majesty's trip to Scotland 
 in 1847, the royal party landed here on the 21st of Au- 
 gust, after their visit to lona and Staffa, and hence pro- 
 ceeded, amid general rejoicing, to Ardverikie Lodge, in 
 Laggan, whence they returned on the 17th September, 
 and embarked at Fort-William for England. 
 
 FORTEVIOT, a parish, in the county of Perth, 
 5 miles (W. by S.) from Bridge-of-Earn ; containing 
 636 inhabitants, of whom 69 are in the village. This 
 was the .seat of many of the Pictish kings, who had a 
 palace at Haly Hill, near the site of the present church ; 
 and this palace, after the extinction of the Pictish mo- 
 narchy, and the union of the two kingdoms by Kenneth 
 Mc Alpine, became the favourite summer residence of 
 several of the Scottish sovereigns. Kenneth resided 
 for many years at the place, where he ended his days ; 
 it was afterwards the summer residence of Malcolm 
 Canmore, and several of his successors' charters were 
 dated hence. Previously to the battle of Dupplin,
 
 FORT 
 
 FORT 
 
 which occurred on the 31st of July, 1332, Edward 
 Baliol encamped his forces in a field in this parish, 
 called the Miller's Acre ; and the ancient mill from 
 which it took its name, and the ford of Coblehaugh, 
 where his army crossed the river, are yet remaining. 
 The eminence of Haly Hill has been considerably un- 
 dermined by the river May, and many portions of the 
 buildings of the palace have been destroyed ; but there 
 are still some vestiges, and in several houses in the 
 parish that were built with the ruins, may be traced 
 numerous stones sculptured with antique figures, which 
 once formed part of the royal residence. 
 
 The PARISH, which is about eight miles in length and 
 two in breadth, is divided into three detached and un- 
 equal portions by the intervening parishes of Aberdalgie 
 and Forgandenny. Of these portions the central divi- 
 sion, in which is the village, is the largest, and is situ- 
 ated on the south of the river Earn : another extends 
 into the Ochils, comprising some of the most conspi- 
 cuous hills of that range ; and the third, lying to the 
 east of Aberdalgie, and the smallest, is bounded on the 
 south by the Earn. The surface is beautifully diversified 
 with hill and dale ; and the scenery, enriched with 
 wood, and enlivened by the windings of the rivers, is 
 in many places strikingly picturesque. The Earn 
 crosses the whole breadth of the parish from east to 
 west, and, frequently overflowing its banks, does consi- 
 derable damage to the lower lands. The May, which 
 rises in the Ochils, after a course of eight miles joins 
 the Earn. In its progress, it forces for itself a pas- 
 sage through a deep fissure in a rock, which, from the 
 rumbling noise of the waters, has obtained the appella- 
 tion of the " Humble Bumble "; and a little above this 
 is the inn of Muckarsie, where the river is precipitated 
 from a height of thirty feet, and after heavy rains forms 
 a picturesque cascade. The soil is various, and the 
 lands are under excellent cultivation, producing favour- 
 able crops : the farms are generally of large extent, 
 and the occupiers men of capital ; the farm-buildings 
 are consequently of superior order, and all the recent 
 improvements in husbandry, and in the construction of 
 agricultural implements, have been adopted to their full 
 extent. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £6301. 
 
 Invermay House, the seat of Alexander H. M. Belshes, 
 Esq., and for many generations the residence of that 
 family, is now a handsome modern mansion : it is beau- 
 tifully situated on an eminence overhanging the river 
 May, and commanding an extensive view of the vale of 
 Strathearu, with the windings of its river, and the ro- 
 roantically-diversified scenery of the adjacent country. 
 All that remains of the old structure is apparently a ruin, 
 though containing several apartments still entire, and in 
 good preservation, and forming a pleasing contrast with 
 the modern mansion. The grounds are tastefully laid 
 out, and embellished with plantations, and with the 
 graceful course of the river May, which flows through 
 the demesne. About a mile from the house is the sepul- 
 chral chapel of Muckarsie, the church of that parish 
 before it was united to Forteviot, and now the burial- 
 place of the family ; the approach to the chapel is by a 
 beautiful avenue of lime-trees. The whole of the grounds 
 are kept in the finest order, and are open to the public 
 for one day in the week, affording a favourite excursion 
 to invalids frequenting the neighbouring wells of Pit- 
 464 
 
 caithly. The village of Foiteviot is pleasantly situated 
 on the right bank of the May, a short distance from its 
 influx into the Earn ; and has a station of the Scottish 
 Central railway. Ecclesiastically the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Perth, synod of Perth 
 and Stirling : the minister's stipend is £244, with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £6. 15. per annum. For- 
 teviot church, before the Reformation, was attached to 
 the abbey of Cambuskenneth, and subsequently to the 
 college of St. Andrew's, in which, and in the family of 
 Belshes of Invermay, the patronage of the living is jointly 
 vested. The present edifice was built about seventy or 
 eighty years since, and is a plain structure in good re- 
 pair. There is (or was) a place of worship for dissenters 
 in the Ochil district of the parish. The parochial 
 school of Forteviot is attended by about fifty children ; 
 the master has a salary of £34, with a house, and an 
 allowance of £2. 2. 9. in lieu of garden, the fees ave- 
 raging £l6 per annum. 
 
 FORTH, a village, in the parish of Carnw.\th, 
 Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 85 miles (N. E. 
 by E.) from Lanark ; containing 357 inhabitants. This 
 is a modern village, seated on the road from Lanark to 
 Whitburn. It may be almost regarded as an appendage 
 to Wilsontown, being chiefly inhabited by persons em- 
 ployed in the coal and iron mines connected with the 
 extensive iron-works of that place, founded by the 
 Messrs. Wilson of London, about the year 1*60. 
 
 FORTINGAL, a parish, in the county of Perth, 
 S§ miles (W. N. VV.) from Aberfeldy ; containing, with 
 part of the quoad sacra districts of Foss, Glenlyon, and 
 Rannoch, 2*40 inhabitants. This place, the name of 
 which is of very doubtful origin, is historically distin- 
 guished chiefly for the conflicts of hostile clans, and for 
 a battle that occurred at Glen-Sassan, between the forces 
 of Robert Bruce and those of Edward of England. The 
 parish is forty miles in length, from east to west, and 
 varies from thirty to thirty-five miles in breadth. It is 
 bounded on the north by the parish of Laggan, in the 
 county of Inverness, and on the north-east by that of 
 Blair-Atholl, Perthshire ; on the east, by the parish of 
 Dull; on the south, by the parishes of Kenmore and 
 Killin ; on the west, by the parish of Appin, in Argyll- 
 shire ; and on the south-west, by the parish of Glenor- 
 chy, in the same shire. It occupies the north-western 
 district of the county, including a considerable part of 
 what formed the great Caledonian forest, and comprising 
 an area nearly 130 miles in circumference. The surface is 
 strikingly diversified with mountains and valleys, deep 
 sequestered glens, and lakes of various extent, the whole 
 forming one of the boldest and richest combinations of 
 scenery in the country. Exclusively of the lofty moun- 
 tains that inclose the parish on the north and south 
 sides, one vast and continuous range intersects the 
 whole area, in a direction from east to west, dividing it 
 into two nearly equal portions, of which the northern 
 comprehends the district of Rannoch, and the southern 
 those of Fortingal and Glenlyon. Numerous mountains 
 also of considerable magnitude rise to a great height in 
 detached situations, and from the summits of them most 
 magnificent views are obtained of the amphitheatre 
 spread beneath, abounding with every variety of pictu- 
 resque and romantic beauty. The chief mountains with- 
 in or connected with the parish have elevations varying 
 from 3000 to 3800 feet above the level of the sea ; the
 
 FORT 
 
 FORT 
 
 range that intersects it is not less than seven miles in 
 breadth at the base, and many points of the chain are 
 more than 3000 feet above the sea. 
 
 Of the valleys the principal is GlenUjon, extending in 
 a western direction for more than thirty miles, and 
 inclosed by mountains on each side, which in some 
 parts obtrude so greatly as scarcely to allow sufficient 
 breadth for the channel of the river that tlows between 
 their bases. There were formerly several lakes in this 
 glen, but Loch Lyon, nearly at the head, is the only one 
 now remaining : in this lake the river Lyon has its 
 source. The valley affords excellent pasturage for sheep, 
 and about '20,000 sheep are generally fed ; the sides of 
 the mountains, also, are covered with verdure to their 
 very summits. Numerous dells branch off from the 
 glen, some of which are nearly foiir miles in length, and 
 watered by various streams, forming tributaries to the 
 Lyon river. One of these streams, called Allt-da-ghob 
 from the dell of that name, when viewed from the hill 
 on the opposite side, has a truly grand appearance : on 
 being swollen by rains, it rushes down the side of an 
 abrupt precipice, several hundred feet in height, with tu- 
 multuous impetuosity, then is totally lost in a chasm 
 invisible to the spectator from its great depth, and, after 
 successive re-appearances as if issuing from the brow of 
 the mountain, runs violently down a second precipice, 
 of 200 feet, in one continued sheet, to the level of the 
 glen, from which it flows with a tranquil course into the 
 Lyon. The valley of Glenwore, situated between Ran- 
 noch and Fortingal, anciently formed part of the forest 
 of Sith-Chaillinn, of which the only vestiges now remain- 
 ing are the roots of trees once existing, which are dug 
 up in great quantities for fuel, and also for affording 
 light, for which purpose the roots of the fir-trees are 
 well adapted. Many trunks of old oaks are also found 
 in this glen, of a black hue, and which, though soft when 
 first found, harden on exposure to the atmosphere ; they 
 are split, and sold in the markets for sharpening scythes, 
 for which they answer well. The valley of Fortingal, 
 whence the parish takes its name, is a fine level tract 
 about half a mile in breadth, and some miles in length, 
 communicating by defiles with the roads to Loch Tay and 
 Glenlyon, and with the turnpike-road to Crieff and 
 Inverness : with the exception of these passes, it is 
 completely surrounded with mountains. It is orna- 
 mented with residences and demesnes tastefully arranged, 
 and enriched with woods and plantations ; and from its 
 great diversity of features the valley of Fortingal is one 
 of the most picturesque and interesting in this part of 
 the country. The mountains by which it is inclosed are 
 clothed with verdure to their summits, and contrast 
 finely with the level tracts of luxuriant pasturage, and 
 the expanse of fertile lands in the highest state of culti- 
 vation. 
 
 Of the rivers, the Gamhair rises in the southern part 
 of Glen Etive, and after a course of several miles, in 
 which it forms some smaller lakes, expands into Loch 
 Laoidean, on issuing from which it obtains its name : pur- 
 suing its way for about five miles, it enters an extensive 
 tract of meadow land, which in rainy seasons it com- 
 pletely inundates ; and after a flow of three or four miles 
 it 'falls into Loch Rannoch. The Erochd issues from the 
 lake of that name, and after a peaceful progress of about 
 two miles, becomes, from the accession of mountain- 
 streams, a rapid and impetuous torrent, till it forces its 
 Vol. I.— 465 
 
 way into Loch Rannoch. The Tummel has its source in 
 Loch Rannoch, and, while flowing through that district, 
 is called the Water of Rannoch ; it is smooth and tran- 
 quil for some miles, but becomes an impetuous and 
 rapid current on leaving the glen, and afterwards ob- 
 tains its general appellation. The river Lyon has its 
 source in the loch of that name, and after watering 
 Glenlyon, and receiving in its course of nearly forty 
 miles almost innumerable streams from the mountains, 
 falls into the Tay below Taymouth Castle. There are 
 many smaller rivers in various parts of the parish ; and 
 owing to the mountainous character of the lands through 
 which they pass, and the consequent accumulation of their 
 waters from mountain torrents, they are diversified in 
 their appearance, and, from the powerful obstructions 
 to their course, exhibit waterfalls in numerous places. 
 The falls of the Tummel, on the confines of the parish ; 
 of the Lyon, in the glen of that name ; of the Gamhair 
 and Duibhe, at the head of Rannoch ; of the Conait, 
 and of the Keltney, are beautifully picturesque. 
 
 Of the lakes in this extensive parish, Loch Erochd, to 
 the north-east of the vale of Rannoch, is sixteen miles 
 in length, and about one mile in average breadth. It is 
 inclosed on botli sides by lofty and precii)itous ranges of 
 rugged mountains, occasionally softened and enlivened 
 by fertile spots in rich cultivation, and by the sporting- 
 boxes of the gentry who resort to this place for shooting 
 the various kinds of game with which the mountains 
 abound. Loch Laoidean is about eight miles west of the 
 head of Loch Rannoch. It is six miles in length, and 
 little more than half a mile in breadth, and is studded 
 with several picturesque islands, richly wooded. Its 
 shoresareindented with numerous small creeks, and diver- 
 sified with boldly-projecting promontories ; and near 
 the western extremity of the lake is an island of yew- 
 trees, among which the red deer frequently shelter, and 
 the eagle rears its young. Loch Lyon, which is roman- 
 tically situated in the glen of the same name, is about 
 three miles in length, and half a mile broad ; its shores 
 abound with agreeable scenery, and though less bold, it 
 is more pleasing in its features, being beautified with 
 luxuriant verdure. Loch Garry, on the border of the 
 parish, nearly seven miles north-east from Loch Rannoch, 
 is about four miles in length, and half a mile in breadth ; 
 its scenery is bold and varied, but differs little from that 
 of some of the other lakes. In the rocks of the parish, 
 and the sides of the various mountains, are many caves 
 of natural formation, which, in the earlier periods of 
 history, afforded shelter to the chiefs of hostile clans in 
 their frequent conflicts, and in some of which Sir Wil- 
 liam Wallace and King Robert Bruce, during the war 
 with England, concealed themselves while watching for 
 opportunities of attacking their enemies, or waiting after 
 a defeat to recruit their forces, and concert new cnter- 
 jirises for the deliverance of their country. They also 
 provided a secure asylum for numerous depredators. 
 
 The SOIL varies according to the elevation of the 
 lands. In the lower valleys it is generally dry and gra- 
 velly. On the acclivities of the mountains it is thinner, 
 but affords excellent pasturage for cattle and sheep : 
 nearer the summits it is a bleak sterile moor, producing 
 but little grass, and abounding with heath ; and the 
 summits of the mountains are covered with moss. The 
 number of acres in the jjarish is 448,000; but compara- 
 tively little is under regular cultivation, the arable lands 
 
 3 O
 
 FORT 
 
 FORT 
 
 bearing only a small proportion to the pastures, and the 
 principal object of the inhabitants being the feeding of 
 cattle and sheep. The sheep are chiefly of the black- 
 faced kind, which are more hardy, and thrive well on the 
 mountain pastures. Particular attention is paid to the 
 improvement of the breed, and also to that of the cattle, 
 which are all the West Highland, and sell for high prices 
 at the sales that occasionally take place. Considerable 
 improvements have been effected in the system of agri- 
 culture : the farm-buildings and offices are substantial 
 and commodious ; the lands are well inclosed, and the 
 fences kept in good repair. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £13,300. The woods are 
 chiefly the remains of the ancient Caledonian forest, 
 which at one time was more than eighty miles in length; 
 they consist mainly of birch and native fir. The plan- 
 tations, scattered over various parts of the parish, are 
 not, for so large a district, of any very great extent; they 
 comprise native fir, larch, and spruce, with some oak, 
 ash, beech, elm, and birch. With respect to the sub- 
 strata, it may be observed that the remarkable bed of 
 limestone which traverses the range of the Grampians 
 in a south-western direction from Aberdeenshire to 
 Dumbartonshire, passes through this parish towards the 
 east end : the limestone is of superior quality, and is 
 wrought for agricultural purposes and for building. 
 A bed of fine blue stone has been found, and a quarry 
 opened on the lands of Mr. Menzies of Chesthill. Marble 
 of various colours also occurs in several parts ; and rock 
 crystals, spars, and agates of great variety and beauty 
 are obtained in the mountains. A vein of lead-ore of 
 considerable richness was discovered in Glenlyon, and 
 formerly wrought with success : near the village of 
 Fortingal, also, lead-ore appears. Slate is supposed to 
 exist in some places, but it has not been yet explored. 
 In the district of Bolfracks, a detached portion of the 
 parish, is an extensive quarry, the stone of which is of 
 superior quality for building ; it is very compact and 
 durable, and susceptible of a high polish. 
 
 In the vale of Fortingal are several handsome resi- 
 dences, beautifully encompassed by richly-wooded and 
 pleasant demesnes ; and in Rannoch are likewise some 
 good seats, one of which is situated in a demesne com- 
 prising about 90,000 acres. Communication with the 
 neighbouring towns is afforded by roads kept in repair 
 by statute labour ; the market-towns of Crieff and Perth 
 are distant about thirty and forty miles, respectively. A 
 penny-post has been established at Kinloch-Rannoch, 
 which communicates with the office at Pitlochry ; and 
 another at Fortingal, which communicates with Aber- 
 feldy. At the west end of Loch Rannoch is a handsome 
 bridge over the river Gamhair, erected by Sir Neil Men- 
 zies. Annual fairs are held at Kirkton in the beginning 
 of December, continuing for three days, for the sale of 
 cattle, sheep, and goats, and the transaction of general 
 business ; in the end of April, for lint and clover seeds ; 
 and in August, for lambs, the first or December fair 
 being the principal market in this part of the country. 
 Fairs are also held at Kinloch-Rannoch, in April, for 
 cattle ; in August, for lambs ; and in October, for cattle; 
 and at Innerwick or Inverwick, in the district of Glen- 
 lyon, annually in November, for sheep. For ecclesi- 
 astical purposes the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Weem, synod of Perth and Stirling. The 
 stipend of the incumbent is about £250; the manse is a 
 466 
 
 handsome and commodious residence, and the glebe is 
 valued at £10 per annum. Fortingal church, a very 
 ancient and substantial structure, was repaired in 18'21, 
 and is adapted for a congregation of 376 persons. There 
 are two government churches, situated respectively in 
 Glenlyon and Rannoch. The parochial school affords a 
 good course of instruction ; the master has a salary of 
 £34, with a house, and an allowance in money in lieu 
 of garden, and the fees average about f'Jl per annum. 
 There are also two schools under the patronage of the 
 General Assembly, and two under that of the Society 
 for Propagating Christian Knowledge : the masters of 
 each of the former have a salary of £'20, with a house, 
 and a portion of land ; and those of the latter have a 
 salary varying from £15 to £'20, with an allowance in 
 money for fuel. Seven other schools, in distant parts 
 of the parish, are supported by general subscription of 
 the inhabitants. The parochial school-house is a very 
 handsome and commodious building, lately erected by 
 the heritors. 
 
 To the west of Fortingal are the remains of a Roman 
 camp, in which the site of the general's tent is still (or 
 until lately was) marked out by the fosse with which it was 
 surrounded ; the praetorium is in good preservation, and 
 north-west of it is a tumulus sixty feet in length, and 
 about twenty feet wide at the base, raised over the re- 
 mains of men who fell in battle. A little to the west of 
 the general's tent are two obelisks, one, about six feet in 
 height, yet standing, and the other, eight feet, long since 
 fallen to the ground. This encampment occupies an 
 area of nearly ninety acres. Some remains of Druidical 
 circles are to be seen near the parish church, and in 
 various parts of the parish are others. There are also 
 numerous forts of circular form, the walls of which, built 
 of loose stones, are of great thickness ; the diameter 
 within the walls averages about sixty feet, and the area 
 is divided into various halls and smaller apartments. 
 These forts are generally referred to the time of Fingal, 
 and are traditionally said to have been castles belonging 
 to the heroes of that chieftain. There are two ancient 
 castles, of later date, the baronial residences of chiefs iu 
 feudal times. One of these is situated on the summit 
 of a rock in the east portion of the parish, and was the 
 seat of the brother of the Earl of Buchan, ancestor of 
 the Stewarts of AthoU. The other, situated in Glenlyon, 
 stands on a lofty and precipitous bank, and was defended 
 by a drawbridge : till the middle of the sixteenth cen- 
 tury, it was the residence of Duncan Campbell, of Glen- 
 lyon, who was equally renowned for his valour and his 
 hospitality. On the lands of Inverchadain are the re- 
 mains of a mound of turf and stones, called " Sheomar- 
 na-Staing", where Wallace, on his route from Argyll, 
 remained for several days, attended by a few faithful 
 adherents, and where he was joined by the men of Ran- 
 noch, who marched with his forces to the battles of 
 Dunkeld and Perth. In the churchyard of Fortingal Is 
 a very ancient yew-tree of remarkable growth, whose 
 trunk is divided into two stems, between which is now 
 an interval of some yards : it appears like two distinct 
 trees. Major-General David Stewart of Garth, author 
 of Sketches of the Highlands and of the Highland Regi- 
 ments, was a native and a landed proprietor of the parish 
 of Fortingal : he died in St. Lucia, in the West Indies, 
 in IS'29, holding the office of governor of that island. — 
 See Rannoch, &;c.
 
 FORT 
 
 FOSS 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 of Ross, and the seat of 
 
 FORTROSE, or Cha- 
 NONRY, a royal burgh, and 
 a quoad sacra district, in 
 the parish of Rosemarkie, 
 county of Ross and Cro- 
 marty, lO^ miles (N. N. E.) 
 from Inverness, and 8 (S. S. 
 W.) from Cromarty ; con- 
 taining, with the burgh of 
 Rosemarkie, 1082 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom nearly one- 
 half are in that burgh. This 
 place, anciently theChanonry 
 that diocese, was united by 
 charter of James II., in 145.5, with the town of Rose- 
 markie, which had been erected into a royal burgh by 
 Alexander II., and which is distant from it about half a 
 mile to the east. The united burghs, under the common 
 name of Fortrose, received a confirmation of all ancient 
 privileges from James VI., in ISQ^ ; and by charter of 
 the same monarch, in 1612, these privileges were ex- 
 tended, and the burgesses invested with all the liberties 
 and immunities enjoyed by the burgesses of Inverness. 
 There was anciently a castle at Fortrose, belonging to 
 the Earls of .Seaforth, who were also Viscounts of Fort- 
 rose ; but no remains of it exist. Of the cathedral, a 
 splendid structure which, though probably not 120 feet 
 long, formed an architectural gem of the first descrip- 
 tion, only a roofless aisle is now left. One portion of 
 this aisle, containing the tombs of several of the bishops, 
 is preserved as a burial-place for the Mackenzies and 
 other landed proprietors. Eastward of the site of the 
 cathedral, which occupied a spacious square containing 
 the houses of the canons, is a detached building with an 
 arched roof, converted into the town-hall, and having, 
 below, a vaulted apartment. The episcopal palace, and 
 a great part of the cathedral, were destroyed by Oliver 
 Cromwell, who sent the materials by sea to Inverness, 
 for the erection of his fortress at that place. 
 
 The TOWN, which is situated on the north-western 
 bank of the Moray Firth, was formerly of considerable 
 importance as a seat of learning. The principal trade 
 now carried on consists of the shipping of cattle, salmon, 
 &c., on board of the Aberdeen and other steamers at 
 Chanonry Point for the London market ; the making of 
 shoes ; the manufacture of coarse linen, and the employ- 
 ment arising out of annual fish-curing excursions. Fort- 
 rose has of late cleared itself of debt by a sale of some of 
 its lands, and appears likely to become fashionable as a 
 bathing station, for which its delightful and healthy 
 situation renders it well adapted. It has already been 
 much benefited by an influx of genteel inhabitants ; and 
 Roderick Mackenzie, Esq., the principal proprietor in 
 the neighbourhood, has lately made considerable im- 
 provements, tending to enhance the beauty of the town. 
 A neat and ornamental water-cistern has been erected 
 at the cross of Fortrose, from the funds of the burgh. 
 At Chanonry Point, a headland projecting deeply into 
 the Firth, is a lighthouse, near the ferry to Fort-George 
 on the opposite shore ; and a small commodious har- 
 bour, erected by the parliamentary commissioners, is 
 frequented by the Lcith, Aberdeen, and Dundee traders. 
 Rosemarkie, though in point of antiquity it has the pre- 
 cedence, is a town inferior to Fortrose in importance ; 
 it is chiefly inhabited by persons occupied in salmon- 
 467 
 
 fishing and agriculture. The post-oflice has a daily 
 delivery ; and fairs are held in April, June, and Novem- 
 ber. Facility of communication is afforded by good 
 roads to Inverness and Dingwall, and by the ferry to 
 Fort-George ; steam-vessels plying in the Firth, and fitted 
 up for the conveyance of passengers and goods, land 
 various kinds of merchandise, and convey produce to 
 Aberdeen, Leith, and London. 
 
 The government of the burgh is vested in a provost, 
 three bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and nine 
 councillors, chosen under the regulations of the late 
 Municipal Reform act. There are no incorporated 
 trades : the fees of admission as burgesses are, for 
 strangers, £3.3. for ordinary trades and £5. 5. for those 
 of a higher class ; and for sons of burgesses half those 
 sums. The magistrates exercise jurisdiction in civil and 
 criminal cases to the usual extent, and a circuit sheriff's 
 court is held here at stated periods. Fortrose is asso- 
 ciated with Forres, Inverness, and Nairn, in returning a 
 member to the imperial parliament ; the number of qua- 
 lified voters is fifty-two. The quoad sacra parish of Fort- 
 rose includes the town of Fortrose, and a portion of the 
 adjacent lands. Its church, a handsome and substantial 
 structure, lately erected in the town by subscription, 
 affords ample accommodation ; and the minister, who is 
 appointed by the male communicants, derives his stipend 
 from the produce of a fund bequeathed for that purpose 
 by Mr. Thomas Forbes, and from the seat-rents. There 
 are places of worship for members of the Free Church 
 and Baptists, and an episcopal chapel in the later 
 English style of architecture. An academy, under the 
 superintendence of a rector and an assistant, is supported 
 by subscription, and is well attended. — See Rose- 
 markie. 
 
 FORVIE, county of Aberdeen.; — See Slains. 
 
 FOSS, a quoad sacra parish, partly in the parish 
 of Fortingal, but chiefly in that of Dull, county of 
 Perth, 8 miles (N.) from Dull; containing 450 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 1 1 are in Fortingal. This district was 
 separated for ecclesiastical purposes, and annexed to a 
 church previously erected here by parliamentary grant. 
 The church is situated on the south bank of the river 
 Tummel, near the western extremity of the lake of that 
 name. The stipend of the minister is £120, with a 
 manse, and a glebe of the annual value of £2. 10. : pa- 
 tron, the Crown. 
 
 FOSSOWAY, a parish, in the counties of Perth 
 and Kinross, 6 miles (W.) from Kinross, and 8 (N. E. 
 by E.) from Alloa ; containing, with the villages of 
 Blairingone, Crook of Devon, and Easter and Wester 
 Gartwhinean, 1724 inhabitants. This parish includes 
 the ancient parish of Tulliebole, united with it in 1614, 
 and which, forming part of the county of Kinross, 
 divides Fossoway into two separate portions. Of these, 
 the one lying northward of the lands of Tulliebole, com- 
 prises the barony of Fossoway, with a considerable part 
 of the Ochil hills ; and that lying southward, the barony 
 of Aldie on the east, and the lands of Blairingone on the 
 west, with the valley between the Ochils on the north 
 and the Cleish and Saline hills on the south. The whole 
 of the united parish is eleven miles in extreme length, 
 and about ten miles in extreme breadth, comprising an 
 area of 18,682 acres, of which nearly 11,000 are arable 
 and pasture, 1 125 woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder waste. Its surface is diversified with hills of 
 
 3 02
 
 FO S S 
 
 FOUL 
 
 various elevation, the principal of which are from 1000 
 to 1500 feet in height above the level of the sea. One 
 of these, called Easter Downhill, is of conical form, skirted 
 round its base with natural wood, and covered with ver- 
 dure to the summit ; and the hill of Inmerdownie, which 
 is the highest iu the parish, commands an extensive 
 prospect, embracing at one view the rivers Forth and 
 Tay. Most of the hills afford excellent pasturage for 
 sheep and cattle, and the intervening valleys are richly 
 cultivated. The lower grounds are also intersected with 
 ridges, rising more or less precipitously to considerable 
 degrees of eminence. The river Devon, which bounds 
 the parish for nearly nine miles, has its source in the 
 Ochils, and after a long and winding course falls into 
 the river Forth at Cambus. The lands are also watered 
 by the rivulets of North and South Quiech and the East 
 Gairuey, which flow into Loch Leven, and the West 
 Gairney, which joins the Devon near the Linn Caldron. 
 In the Devon and in the other streams trout of good 
 quality are taken. The scenery is boldly varied, and in 
 some parts strikingly romantic. The river Devon forms 
 several cascades, one of the principal of which is the 
 Rumbling Bridge, so called from a bridge twenty-two 
 feet in span, below which the river, impeded iu its pro- 
 gress by projecting rocks, falls successively from various 
 heights with tumultuous noise. Lower down is the 
 Linu Caldron, where, within a distance of twenty-eight 
 yards, the stream has two falls, one of thirty-four and 
 the other of forty-four feet, of nearly perpendicular 
 descent ; and in the interval the rocks are worn into 
 three spacious cavities, in two of which the water, from 
 its violent agitation, has the appearance of boiling. Near 
 the old Rumbling bridge, which is still entire, a new 
 bridge has been lately erected. 
 
 In some parts of the parish the soil is mossy, in others 
 a gravel, and in some places clay alternated with loam. 
 The system of agriculture is in an advanced state ; much 
 waste land has been brought into profitable cultivation, 
 and the inclosures, partly of stone dykes and partly 
 fences of thorn, are well kept. On the lands of Fosso- 
 way, a fence of wire- work attached to posts of wood has 
 been introduced. The farm-houses and offices, with very 
 few exceptions, are substantial and commodious ; and 
 most of the later improvements in husbandry have been 
 adopted. The annual value of real property in the 
 Fossoway or Perthshire portion of the parish amounts to 
 £3900, and of real property in the Tulliebole or Kinross- 
 shire portion to £46 IS. The plantations are extensive, 
 and properly managed ; they consist principally of 
 spruce and Scotch fir, ash, elm, plane, and beech, all of 
 which grow well in the soil. Larch, which formerly 
 produced considerable profit, has within the last few 
 years appeared to degenerate : oak, which has only lately 
 been planted, seems to thrive. There are quarries of 
 whinstone and freestone in several parts, and in the 
 western districts are found limestone, coal, and iron- 
 stone : at Blairingone are three collieries in operation, 
 two of which were but lately opened. The ironstone for 
 many years was extensively wrought, but the working of 
 it has been almost discontinued. In a rock near the 
 Rumbling Bridge is found copper-ore ; but the quantity 
 bears so small a proportion to the material in which it 
 is contained, that it cannot be wrought to advantage. 
 Tulliebole Castle, the seat of Sir James W. Moncrieff, 
 Bart., one of the judges of the Court of Session, is an 
 468 
 
 ancient mansion, having been erected in 1608. Devon- 
 shaw House and Arndean are both handsome modern 
 mansions, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Devon. 
 The castle of Aldie, once the baronial seat of the Mer- 
 cers, and now the property of their representative, the 
 Baroness Keith, though uninhabited remains entire. 
 The principal villages are Blairingone and Crook of 
 Devon, both of them burghs of barony : the latter is 
 situated on the river Devon, which here makes a sudden 
 turn in its course, whence the village takes its name ; 
 and there is a good inn for the accommodation of the 
 numerous visiters who frequent the place in order to 
 view the interesting scenery in its vicinity. The parish 
 also contains several hamlets, of which the most con- 
 siderable are Gartwhinean and Carnbo. Fairs are held 
 in May and in October, when cattle and wares are ex- 
 posed for sale. The turnpike-road from Dunfermline to 
 CriefF passes through the parish from north to south, and 
 that from Kinross to Alloa intersects it from east to 
 west : parallel with the latter, and about two miles to 
 the north of it, is the turnpike-road from Stirling to the 
 east of Fife ; and the Dunning road also crosses a por- 
 tion of the parish. There are six bridges over the Devon, 
 which tend to facilitate the communication with the 
 neighbouring towns. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Auchterarder, synod of 
 Perth and Stirling. The minister's stipend is £164, with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £S. 13. 4. ; patron. Sir 
 Graham Montgomerie, of Kinross. The church, built in 
 1S06, is a plain edifice in good repair, containing b'-lb 
 sittings. A church, with which a quoad sacra parish 
 was for a short time connected, was erected on a site a 
 little eastward of the village of Blairingone, given for 
 that purpose by Mark Watt, Esq., who also subscribed 
 liberally towards its erection ; it was opened for divine 
 service in li33S, and is a neat structure containing 250 
 sittings. The parochial school is attended by about 
 seventy children ; the master has a salary of £34, with 
 a house and garden, some land worth £12 per annum, 
 and fees averaging £27. Another school is partly sup- 
 ported by private subscription. There is a petrifying 
 spring on the lands of Devonshaw ; and on the estate of 
 Blairingone, a mineral spring was discovered about 
 twenty years since, the water of which, according to an 
 analysis made by Dr. Thomson, professor of chemistry 
 in the university of Glasgow, contains in an imperial 
 gallon 5'S7 grs. common salt, 17099 grs. sulphate of 
 soda, 953' IS grs. sulphate of alumine, 1753'10 grs. diper- 
 sulphate of iron, 14r55 grs. persulphate of iron, and 
 5870 grs. of silica. The water is too strong for internal 
 use, without dilution ; but, externally applied, is power- 
 ful in healing wounds. — See Blairingone, &c. 
 
 FOULA, an island, in the parish of Walls and 
 Sandness, county of Shetland; containing 215 in- 
 habitants. This island lies almost twenty miles distant 
 from any land, and is the most western of the Shetlands. 
 It is about three miles in length, and one and a half in 
 breadth, with bold and steep shores, and formed chiefly 
 of three hills of a nearly conical shape. There is very 
 little level ground ; and the isle has only one landing- 
 place. Ham, which is on the east side, and even this can- 
 not be approached in bad weather : the island is resorted 
 to as a fishing-station, and it affords excellent pasturage 
 for sheep. Dense columns of birds of various kinds
 
 FOUL 
 
 FO VE 
 
 hover round it, literally darkening the air at particular 
 seasons ; the surface of the hills swarms with plover, 
 crows, and curlews, and the cormorants occupy the 
 lower portions of the cliff's. The rock scenery in this 
 island is supposed to be the grandest in the country. 
 The minister of Walls makes an annual visit to the isle, 
 remaining usually two Sundays; at other times the school- 
 master oHiciates in the church as a kind of pastor. 
 
 FOULDEN, a parish, in the county of Berwick, 
 5 miles (N. W. by W.) from Berwick ; containing 393 
 inhabitants, of whom "3 are in the village, and the re- 
 mainder in the rural districts of the parish. The deriva- 
 tion of the name of this place is uncertain. Foulden is 
 distinguished for a conference held in the church in 1 587, 
 between commissioners appointed by James VI. of Scot- 
 land, and others sent by Elizabeth of England, to dis- 
 cuss and investigate those circumstances in the conduct 
 of the unfortunate Mary by which Elizabeth endeavoured 
 to vindicate the incarceration and subsequent decapita- 
 tion of her royal sister. The parish is about two miles 
 and a quarter in length, and very nearly of equal 
 breadth, comprising 3000 acres, of which 2400 are arable, 
 300 woodland and plantations, and the remainder rough 
 pasture and waste. Its surface is diversified with gentle 
 slopes, and with wood-crowned heights, which shelter it 
 from the colder winds ; the scenery is generally interest- 
 ing, and in some parts pleasingly picturesque and ro- 
 mantic. The river Whitadder, which is here of con- 
 siderable depth, skirts the southern side of the parish in 
 its progress to the Tweed, into which it falls near Ber- 
 wick ; its banks are of precipitous height, and on the 
 north side intersected with numerous glens, through 
 which many streams from the higher lands find their 
 way into its channel. 
 
 In some parts the soil is a strong clay, in some a 
 sandy loam, and in others a cultivated moor ; the crops 
 are wheat, oats, barley, beans, potatoes, and turnips. 
 The system of agriculture is in an advanced state : the 
 lands are well drained and inclosed, the farm-houses 
 and offices substantially built and conveniently arranged ; 
 and all the more recent improvements in husbandry are 
 practised. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £.5002. The woods are partly of great age ; 
 the plantations consist of oak, ash, elm, birch, chesnut, 
 and sycamore, with spruce and Scotch firs. Foulden 
 House, the seat of the proprietor of four-fifths of the 
 parish, is a handsome mansion, pleasantly situated in an 
 extensive and richly-wooded demesne, ornamented with 
 much stately timber of ancient growth, and with young 
 and thriving plantations. The village is neatly built, 
 and inhabited by persons employed in agricultural pur- 
 suits and in the various handicraft trades requisite for 
 the parish. A fair, chiefly for pleasure, is held annually 
 in the village. The want of easier means of communi- 
 cation with the market-town and other places, which 
 was previously severely felt, was lately supplied by the 
 erection of a good bridge over the Whitadder, for which 
 purpose a grant from the county of £.500, and a sub- 
 scription of £1500 from the gentry of the district, were 
 obtained. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Chirnside, synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and in the 
 patronage of John Wilkie, Esq. : the minister's stipend 
 is £152. 18., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £24 
 per annum. The church, situated within the grounds 
 469 
 
 of Foulden House, was erected in 1/86, after the ancient 
 church had become ruinous ; it is a neat edifice, well 
 adapted for the parish, and the interior is capable of 
 being seated fijr the whole population. Foulden paro- 
 chial school affords a good course of instruction ; the 
 master has a salary of £34, with £10 fees, and a house 
 and garden. From the name of an estate in the parish, 
 called Nunlands, it is supposed that a religious establish- 
 ment once existed here, though no account of it has 
 transpired ; and there were formerly remains of an 
 ancient fort called Foulden Castle, probably a place of 
 retreat during the border wars. In the churchyard is an 
 epitaph to the memory of some hero who appears to 
 have distinguished himself in those predatory incursions 
 so frequent in feudal times ; it is inscribed to George 
 Ranisay, and dated 4th January, 1592. 
 
 FOUNTAINHALL,a hamlet, in the parish of Stow, 
 county of Edinburgh, 4 miles (N. W. by N.) from 
 Stow ; containing 60 inhabitants. It is situated in the 
 centre of the parish, on the western side of the Gala 
 water, and on the road from Borthwick to Stow. Here 
 is a station on the line of the Edinburgh and Hawick 
 railway. 'There is a good library in the hamlet. 
 
 FOVERAN, a parish, in the district of Ellon, 
 county of Aberdeen, 12 miles (N. by W.) from Aber- 
 deen ; containing, with the village of Nevvburgh and the 
 barony of Knockhall, 1620 inhabitants. This place was 
 formerly remarkable for its castle, called Foveran, as is 
 supposed from a sweet and powerful spring, which still 
 flows with its ancient strength ; but every vestige of the 
 fortress is gone. The parish is situated in that part of 
 the county called Formartine. It stretches along the 
 coast of the German Ocean, and is separated from the 
 parish of Logie-Buchan on the north by the burn of 
 Tarty, and from the sands of Forvie on the east by the 
 river Ythan. It is about seven miles in length from 
 east to west, and three in breadth from north to south, 
 and is watered by the beautiful burn of Foveran, which, 
 after forming in its pleasing course the chief ornament 
 in the scenery, falls into the Ythan at Newburgh. Agri- 
 culture is steadily pursued, and considerable traffic is 
 carried on at the fishing-village and maritime port of 
 Newburgh, ichich see. The land is generally fertile, and 
 distributed into many good farms, producing fine crops ; 
 the farm-houses are mostly built of stone and lime, and 
 are commodious and well finished. Within the last 
 twenty or thirty years large tracts of barren soil have 
 been improved, and drains and fences constructed on au 
 extensive scale. The mail-road from Aberdeen to Peter- 
 head intersects the parish, and has several branches, one 
 of which, called the Fiddes road, joins the Udny turn- 
 pike-road, opening up important facilities of intercourse 
 with that part of the county : there is also a turnpike- 
 road from Aberdeen to Methlick, which passes at the 
 western extremity of the parish ; and another has been 
 recently completed, which is found highly beneficial, from 
 Old Meldrum to the village of Newburgh. About twenty 
 head of fat-cattle are shipped every week at the port, 
 for the London market ; and lime, coal, timber, bones, 
 &c., are imported. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £5713. 
 
 Foveran is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Ellon, 
 synod of Aberdeen, and in the patrt)nage of the Crown : 
 the minister's stipend is £193, with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £11 per annum. The church is a plain
 
 FOWL 
 
 FOWL 
 
 substantial edifice, built in 1794, and accommodating 
 700 persons ; it contains two handsome marble monu- 
 ments to the family of Robertson of Foveran, and 
 anotlier, of very superior character, designed by Bacon, 
 to the Udny family. Excellent walls have been built 
 round the churchyard, with funds left for that purpose 
 by Miss Robertson of Foveran. The parochial school 
 affords instruction in the usual branches ; the master 
 has a salary of £'>8, with about £31 fees. There is also 
 a school at Cultercullen, in the western quarter, with an 
 endon-ment of £S per annum, and a free house, and 
 piece of land. Mr. Mather, a native of the parish, left 
 a sum for the establishment of four bursaries at Maris- 
 chal College, under the patronage of the minister, for 
 boys educated in the parochial school ; also funds for 
 clothing and educating twenty poor fishermen's children 
 belonging to Newburgh, and £'20 per annum to the 
 minister or schoolmaster for lecturing once a week to 
 the people in the village. About half a mile north of 
 Newburgh are the ruins of the castle of Knockhall, built 
 in the year 1565, and accidentally burnt in 1734: it 
 was the seat of the family of Udny, whose ancient 
 burial-ground, also in the neighbourhood of th'e village, 
 contains the remains of an old chapel generally called 
 Rood Church. 
 
 FOWLIS, in the county of Perth. — See Lundie 
 and FowLis. 
 
 FOWLIS WESTER, a parish, in the county of 
 Perth ; including the villages of Buchanty and Gil- 
 merton, and containing 1609 inhabitants, of whom 1S7 
 are in the village of Fowlis Wester, 5 miles (E. N. E.) 
 from Crieff. The origin of the name of this place, 
 Fowlis or Foulis, is differently accounted for. A local 
 tradition states that one of the Earls of Strathearn, 
 wishing for a church in the vicinity of his castle here, 
 stood on an eminence where he had a summer seat, and 
 resolved to erect one where the sun first shone, which 
 was on the spot the church now occupies, denominated 
 by him Fotvgiinlish, "under the light". Others de- 
 rive the name from the ancient family of Fowlis, who 
 are said to have held property here ; but they do not 
 appear to have really had any possession in Fowlis 
 Wester, which belonged to the ancient Earls of Strath- 
 earn at the time when the Fowlis family came over from 
 France, and settled in this country. The village was 
 ouce a place of considerable importance, where the stew- 
 ard of Strathearn held his court ; and about a mile east 
 of the church, on a part of the estate of Fowlis, was for- 
 merly a castle, the seat of the ancient Earls of Strath- 
 earn, the site of which now forms a grassy mount. Here 
 resided Mallus, or Malise, the first earl, in the reign of 
 Alexander I. ; and his grandson, Gilbert, in the year 
 1200 founded the monastery of InchafiFray, beyond the 
 southern border of the parish. The seventh earl, also 
 named Malise, opposing Baliol, forfeited the title ; and 
 his countess, Joanna, daughter of Sinclair, Earl of Ork- 
 ney, in 1320 was engaged in a plot against Robert I., 
 for which, according to some accounts, she was con- 
 demned to perpetual imprisonment. Mary, sister of the 
 last-mentioned earl, was married to Sir John Moray of 
 Drumsargard, to whom the earl conveyed the lands of 
 Abercairney in the parish ; and Sir Maurice Moray, 
 their son, was restored to the earldom ; but accompany- 
 ing King David to the battle of Durham, in 1346, he 
 lost his life in that action. 
 470 
 
 The PARISH is six miles in extreme length and four 
 in breadth, and contains 15,600 acres. It is situated 
 on the north side of Strathearn, and is bounded on the 
 north by Glen-Almond, in Monzie parish; on the south 
 lies the parish of Madderty, on the east that of Methven, 
 and on the west that of Monzie. The surface is marked 
 by two mountain ranges, of which the northern is the 
 higher, and forms a part of the Grampian mountaius ; 
 the southern is three miles in breadth, and consists of 
 large tracts of moss and heath, ornamented with some 
 plantations, and interspersed with a few cottages and 
 cultivated farms. In the south, where the surface is 
 extremely irregular, are a number of braes, which di- 
 versify the valley lying in that direction, as well as the 
 southern slopes of the last-named range of hills. The 
 beautiful and meandering stream of the Almond bounds 
 the parish for two miles ; and the lands contiguous to it 
 exhibit an assemblage of woods, hills, rocks, and cas- 
 cades, with cottages, so strikingly grouped as to con- 
 stitute some of the finest scenery in the county. The 
 river Pow, rising in the mosses below Methven, runs on 
 the south, and joins the Earn near Innerpeffray. In 
 the west is the loch of Luag, situated in a narrow glen, 
 from which may be seen the stupendous amphitheatre 
 of hills around Comrie, with the far-famed Benvoirlich 
 towering to the clouds. 
 
 The SOIL has many varieties of gravel, sand, loam, 
 and clay, resting chiefly on rock. Though tolerably fer- 
 tile, it is in many places thin and dry, and where the 
 subsoil is clay the earth is wet and cold : on the banks 
 of the Pow the soil is alluvial, from the inundations ot 
 the river. There are 9400 acres in tillage, 6200 in pas- 
 ture, and 1000 occupied by wood : all kinds of grain 
 are raised, of average quality ; the green crops consist 
 of potatoes, turnips, and cabbages, and are produced to 
 a large extent, with considerable quantities of hay. The 
 cattle are the Fife, the Ayrshire, and the Teeswater; and 
 very superior horses of the Clydesdale breed, the Gar- 
 ron, and the Cleveland bay, are reared in the parish. A 
 highly-improved system of husbandry is followed, and 
 great advances have been made in every branch of agri- 
 culture ; but though most of the arable land is inclosed 
 with stone dykes and with hedges, much still remains 
 to be done in this respect, and the more effectual em- 
 bankment of the river Pow is required for protection in 
 the rainy season. The rocks chiefly belong to the tran- 
 sition formation. The hills consist of mica-slate, with 
 occasional beds of quartz and hornblende, and a coarse 
 red conglomerate composed principally of hornblende 
 porphyry, which sometimes has the appearance of com- 
 mon greywacke : the slate dips at the angle of 45° 
 towards the north. In the lower part of the parish are 
 several extensive beds of grey sandstone in thick strata, 
 which, instead of being vertical, like the slate, are nearly 
 horizontal. Trap dykes also occur. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £12,700. 
 
 In this parish is situated the House of Abercairney, 
 an elegant modern edifice in the form of an ancient ca- 
 thedral : the House of Cultoquhey is also a substantial 
 and commodious residence, built from a design by 
 Smirke, in the style of the Elizabethan age. The village 
 of Fowlis is very ancient, and still admits of great im- 
 provements, though some have lately taken place in the 
 construction and slating of the houses. The lands of 
 Lacock, adjoining Fowlis, form a burgh of barony, with 
 
 f
 
 FR A S 
 
 FR AS 
 
 the privilege of a weekly market and two annual fairs, 
 none of wliich, however, are now held. St. Methvan-mas 
 fair is held at Fowlis on the 6th of November, for the 
 sale of black-cattle and for hiring servants ; it was an- 
 ciently the pari^^h festival, instituted in honour of the 
 saint to whom the church was dedicated. The weaving 
 of cotton is carried on to some extent in the parish, the 
 raw material being obtained from Glasgow : the manu- 
 facture of sieves, also, has employed several families for 
 some generations, to supply the Perth and Fife markets, 
 where the articles meet with a ready sale at good prices. 
 There is a fishery on the Almond for salmon and white- 
 trout, these being taken at a cascade, below which a 
 basket is suspended to receive the fish, which fall into it 
 in attempting to overleap the cascade in their passage 
 up the river. The turnpike-road from Perth to Crieff 
 passes through the parish, and there are several other 
 roads, all of which are kept in good order. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally the parish is within the limits of the presbytery of 
 Auchterarder, synod of Perth and Stirling ; patron, 
 William Moray Stirling, Esq., of Abercairney. The sti- 
 pend of the minister is £225, with a good manse and 
 offices, and a glebe of seven acres, valued at £20 per 
 annum. Fowlis church, a very ancient edifice, accom- 
 modates 800 persons with sittings. There is a parochial 
 school, in which the usual branches of education are 
 taught ; the master has the maximum salary, with a 
 house and garden, and about £25 in fees. In the village 
 of Fowlis is an old Calvary cross, on one side of which 
 is a representation of a wolf-chase ; and the parish con- 
 tains several Druidical temples, one of them supposed to 
 have been the temple of an Arch-Druid, and consisting 
 of a double concentric circle of forty stones in its outer 
 precinct. 
 
 FRASERBURGH, a 
 burgh of regality and a pa- 
 rish, in the district of Bu- 
 CHAN, county of Aberdeen, 
 42 miles (N. by E.) from 
 Aberdeen, and 149 (N. N. E.) 
 from Edinburgh ; containing 
 3615 inhabitants, of whom 
 326 are resident in the village 
 of Broadsea. This place, an- 
 ciently called Faithly, was at 
 one time the property of Sir 
 Alexander Eraser, on whose 
 lands a town was built, for which he obtained a charter 
 from James VI., erecting it into a burgh of regality, 
 named, in compliment to its superior, Fraserburgh, by 
 which appellation, also, the parish has since been desig- 
 nated. Sir Alexander, by marriage with the daughter 
 of George, the seventh Baron Saltoun, succeeded to the 
 title as tenth baron ; and his descendant, the present 
 Lord Saltoun, who is also hereditary provost of the 
 burgh, is principal proprietor of the parish. The town, 
 which is situated on the south side of Kinnaird Head, 
 a bold promontory projecting into the German Ocean, 
 near the entrance of the Moray Firth, consists of several 
 spacious and well-formed streets, intersecting each other 
 at right angles. The houses are substantially built, and 
 generally of handsome appearance, and many of the 
 more modern class are spacious ; the streets are well 
 paved, and the inhabitants amply supplied with water. 
 In the centre of the town is the Cross, erected by Sir 
 471 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 Alexander Fraser, an elegant hexagonal structure of nine 
 receding stages, diminishing from an area of 500 feet at 
 the base to twenty-three feet on the platform, from which 
 rises a pillar twelve feet high, ornamented with the 
 bearings of the Erasers, surmounted by the British 
 arms. 
 
 The TRADE carried on principally arises from the ex- 
 portation of grain, other agricultural produce, and fish ; 
 and the importation of timber, coal, lime, bricks, tiles, 
 salt, and various kinds of goods for the supply of the 
 shops in the town. The quantity of grain exported ave- 
 rages 20,000 quarters, and of potatoes 15,000 bolls, an- 
 nually ; of fish, about 50,000 barrels of herrings, and 
 dried and pickled cod to the value of £6000 ; whilst the 
 harbour dues, originally not exceeding £70, have since 
 the improvement of the harbour increased to an average 
 of £1900 per annum. It appears that the number of 
 vessels registered as belonging to the port, which is a 
 creek to that of Banff, is twenty-two, varying from 
 forty-five to 260 tons' burthen ; and about 280 boats 
 are engaged in the herring-fishery, which, during its 
 continuance, makes an increase of 2000 persons in the 
 population of the parish. The harbour, situated at the 
 north-eastern extremity of the bay of Fraserburgh, is 
 easy of access, and has a depth of six feet at low water, 
 and of twenty feet at spring tides ; it is about eight 
 acres in extent, and affords security to vessels at all 
 times. Great benefit has resulted from the construction 
 of additional piers, and the erection of a lighthouse on 
 Kinnaird Head, the whole at an expense of £50,000, 
 part of which was paid by government, and the remain- 
 der by Lord Saltoun, and by subscription of the inha- 
 bitants. A new pier on an extensive scale is also about 
 to be built, which when completed will afford shelter to 
 the largest merchantmen frequenting our coasts, and 
 will make Fraserburgh the best wind-bound harbour on 
 the east coast of Scotland. The bay, which is about 
 three miles in length, forms an excellent roadstead, 
 where numerous ships of any burthen may lie at anchor, 
 and is consequently much resorted to by vessels of every 
 description, in adverse weather. The spinning of linen- 
 yarn, the manufacture of rope and sails, and some 
 other works connected with the shipping, are carried on, 
 to a moderate extent. This place was erected into a 
 burgh of regality in 1613, and the government is vested 
 in an hereditary provost, by whom two bailies, a dean 
 of guild, treasurer, and thirteen councillors arc appointed. 
 The lessees of lands within the burgh are burgesses, and 
 are bound to maintain the public works of the town, for 
 which purpose they possess the market customs and 
 tolls, and, in lieu of certain privileges over commons, 
 have lands producing a rent of £160 per annum. The 
 bailies hold courts within the burgh for actions of debt, 
 and the trial of petty offences ; and the sheriff of the 
 county holds courts four times a year, for the recovery 
 of small debts. The town-hall was built by Sir Alexander 
 Eraser, as also was a small gaol, now in a ruinous state, 
 and unfit for the detention of prisoners. Branches of 
 the Bank of Scotland, the Aberdeen Bank, and the North 
 of Scotland Bank, as well as a savings' bank, have been 
 established; the post-office has a good delivery, and fa- 
 cility of communication with Aberdeen, Peterhead, Banff, 
 Strichen, and other places is maintained by good roads. 
 An act was passed in 1846 for the construction of a 
 railway to Fraserburgh.
 
 FR A S 
 
 FRIO 
 
 The PARISH, which is bounded on the north by the 
 Moray Firth, and on the east by the bay of Fraserburgh, 
 is about eight miles in length, and three and a half in 
 average breadth, but is divided into two nearly equal 
 parts by an intervening portion of the parish of Rathen, 
 more than a mile in breadth. It contains 11,000 acres, 
 of which, with the exception of about eighty acres, the 
 whole is arable. The surface near the eastern coast is 
 low and sandy, and towards the north flat and rocky, 
 with the exception of the lofty promontory of Kinnaird 
 Head : from the shore the land rises gradually to the 
 interior, and to the south are several hills, of which that 
 of Mormond, covered with moss and heath, has an ele- 
 vation of 810 feet above the level of the sea. The river 
 Philorth, which has its source in the higher districts, 
 and in its way receives some tributary streams, forms a 
 boundary between this parish and Rathen, and falls into 
 the bay of Fraserburgh. In some parts the soil is sandy 
 and light, and in others clay, and loam alternated with 
 gravel, and interspersed with moorland and moss : the 
 crops are, grain of all kinds, with beans, peas, potatoes, 
 and turnips. The system of husbandry has greatly im- 
 proved : the farms vary from fifty to 300 acres in extent ; 
 the lands are partly inclosed and under good cultivation, 
 and shell-sand, sea-weed, and bone-dust are the chief 
 manures. The cattle are of the native breed, intermixed 
 with various others, and of late years some of the Tees- 
 water have been introduced : large numbers are shipped 
 from the port to the London market, where they obtain 
 a high price. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £10,145. 
 
 There are some remains of aged natural wood in the 
 grounds of Philorth House ; and from numerous trunks 
 of trees buried in the moss, it would appear that the 
 district was anciently well-wooded : plantations have 
 been lately formed around the house of Philorth, and on 
 several lands previously unproductive. The principal 
 substrata are, limestone, which is quarried for building 
 purposes and for farming, and granite, which is found 
 in great quantity in the upper districts of the parish ; 
 ironstone, also, occurs among the rocks, and apparently 
 of good quality, but from the scarcity of fuel it is not 
 wrought. Philorth House, the seat of Lord Saltoun, 
 the only mansion of any importance, is pleasantly situ- 
 ated at a short distance from the bay, and on the west 
 bank of the river Philorth, in grounds tastefully laid out. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Deer and synod of Aberdeen. The mi- 
 nister's stipend is £'219, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £10 per annum ; patron. Lord Saltoun. Fra- 
 serburgh church, in the centre of the town, is a substan- 
 tial structure built in ISO-^, and containing 1000 seats; 
 a tower and spire were afterwards added, at an expense 
 of £300, raised by subscription. There are two places 
 of worship for Independents, and one each for the Free 
 Church and Episcopalians. The parochial school is at- 
 tended by 100 children, of whom thirty are girls : the 
 master has a salary of £29. IS. 10., with a house and 
 garden, and the fees average about £50 per annum ; he 
 receives also a share of Dick's bequest. There are, be- 
 sides, two public seminaries for the education of boys, 
 and one for the education of girls. Some vestiges exist 
 of ancient religious houses, one of which, called the 
 College, is said to have been connected with the abbey 
 of Deer ; and at the w est end of the town are the re- 
 472 
 
 mains of a spacious quadrangular building erected in 
 1592, by Sir Alexander Eraser, who obtained a charter 
 for the foundation of a college, but which was not car- 
 ried into effect. On Kinnaird Head are the ruins of a 
 tower called the Wine Tower, under which is a cavern, 
 penetrating more than 100 feet into the rock. There 
 are also some ruins of Danish camps and Picts' houses 
 in the parish. 
 
 FRESWICK, a township, in the parish of Canisbay, 
 county of Caithness ; containing 4 14 inhabitants. This 
 place is situated in the eastern part of the parish, where 
 the coast is washed by the North Sea, and indented by 
 Freswick bay ; the beach here is composed of sand and 
 a mixture of sandstone and shells, and at a short dis- 
 tance southward is the promontory of Freswick point. 
 The lands are the property of the Sinclair family, who 
 are proprietors of the greater portion of the parish, and 
 to whom belongs Freswick House, an ancient mansion, 
 not inhabited for many years, and now in an almost 
 ruinous state. Freswick burn pursues an eastern course 
 of a few miles, and discharges itself into the bay. Here 
 are the ruins of an edifice called Bucholie Castle, which 
 appears to be of great antiquity ; and there was formerly 
 a chapel dedicated to St. Maddan, of which scarcely a 
 vestige now remains. 
 
 FREUCHIE, a village, in the parish of Falkland, 
 district of Cupar, county of Fife, I5 mile (E. S. E.) 
 from Falkland; containing 713 inhabitants. It lies 
 near the eastern boundary of the parish, on the road 
 from Falkland to Pitlessie, and has the small hamlet of 
 Little Freuchie on the west. The village is of some 
 antiquity, and is said to have been in former times a 
 place of exile for courtiers who had incurred the royal 
 displeasure: in 1716 it suffered much from the depre- 
 dations of Rob Roy's garrison at Falkland. It is chiefly 
 inhabited by persons employed in hand-loom weaving. 
 There is a place of worship for members of the United 
 Presbyterian Church ; and a small school is supported 
 by subscription. 
 
 FRIARTON, a village, in the East parish of the city 
 of Perth, county of Perth ; with 62 inhabitants. 
 
 FRIOCKHEIM, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in 
 the parishes of Kirkden and Inverkeillor, county of 
 Forfar ; containing 1443 inhabitants, of whom about 
 900 are in the village of Friockheim, 3| miles (E. by N.) 
 from Letham, and 6^ (N. W. by N.) from Arbroath. This 
 district is nearly five miles in extent, comprising about 
 1694 acres in tillage or pasture, 308 under plantation, 
 and 395 in uncultivated waste ; and is skirted on the 
 whole of its northern boundary by the Lunan water, one 
 of the finest trouting-streams in Forfarshire. The vil- 
 lage, which stands on the north-eastern limits of the 
 district, has grown up within the last twenty or five- 
 and-twenty years under the auspices of John Andson, 
 Esq., owing chiefly to the feuing of small lots of ground, 
 and the rapid increase of the linen manufacture in the 
 neighbourhood. Upwards of 400 persons are now em- 
 ployed in flax-spinning, and the manufacture of sheet- 
 ings, Osnaburghs, dowlas, and sail-cloth, which are ex- 
 ported principally to the American markets. The houses 
 are neatly built, and there is a spinning-mill and yarn- 
 washing mill. The turnpike-road from Arbroath to 
 Forfar runs nearly through the centre of the district : 
 the Arbroath and Forfar railway passes within three 
 minutes' walk south of the village, having a station here ;
 
 FULL 
 
 FY VI 
 
 and the Aberdeen railway also affords a frequent and 
 expeditious communication. Ecclesiastically the place 
 is within the limits of the presbytery of Arbroath, synod 
 of Angus and Mearns : the stipend of the minister is 
 £70, derived from seat-rents and collections, with a 
 manse ; and the patronage is vested in the male commu- 
 nicants, heads of families. Friockbeim church, erected 
 in 183.T, and since enlarged, is a neat edifice containing 
 600 sittings. There is a parochial school, in which the 
 usual branches of education are taught, and which is 
 capable of accommodating 140 scholars ; and a parochial 
 library has been instituted by the Kirk Session. 
 
 FUDAY, an island, in the parish of Barra, county 
 of Inverness ; containing 5 inhabitants. This is a 
 small island, lying about two miles and a half north- 
 ward of Barra, and affording excellent pasture. It was 
 until lately uninhabited. 
 
 FULLARTON, lately a quoad sacra parish, in the 
 parish of Dundonald, district of Kyle, county of Ayr, 
 65 miles (W.) from Kilmarnock, and 1 1 (N.) from Ayr ; 
 containing 3103 inhabitants. This place, which is situ- 
 ated on the south-western bank of the river Irvine, de- 
 rives its name from its ancient proprietors, the Fullar- 
 tons, by one of whom a convent was founded in 1'240, 
 on the site of the present town, and amply endowed for 
 friars of the Carmelite order. The establishment con- 
 tinued to flourish till the Reformation, when it was sup- 
 pressed ; and while laying out the lands in allotments 
 for the erection of the town, vestiges of the ancient 
 building, consisting of the foundations of its walls, were 
 discovered near the mansion-house of the founder. The 
 town forms a populous suburb to the burgh of Irvine, 
 on the opposite bank of the river. It is well built, and 
 consists chiefly of two streets, one in a line extending at 
 right angles from the main street of Irvine, with which 
 it is connected by a handsome bridge ; the other run- 
 ning up at a right angle from the bridge, or parallel with 
 the river, and pointing towards Ayr : several smaller 
 streets diverge in various directions. Its situation on 
 the harbour of the Irvine gives to the place a very in- 
 teresting appearance, which is much heightened by the 
 beauty of the surrounding scenery, and the numerous 
 pleasing villas in the immediate vicinity. 
 
 A public library in connexion with Irvine is supported 
 by subscription. The inhabitants are chiefly seafaring 
 people, or employed in hand-loom weaving for the manu- 
 facturers of Ayr and Glasgow, and in the various handi- 
 craft trades connected with the wants of the neighbour- 
 hood. Great facility of intercourse is afforded by the 
 Glasgow and Ayr railway, which has its Irvine station 
 here. In I707, William Fullarton, Esq., the superior, 
 obtained for the inhabitants a charter erecting the town 
 into a burgh of barony, with the privilege of two annual 
 fairs ; but from the proximity of Irvine, the charter does 
 not appear to have been carried into effect. Fullarton 
 was separated from the parish, under an act of the Gen- 
 eral Assembly, in 1838, and, with a part of the estate of 
 Shewalton, was formed for ecclesiastical purposes into a 
 distinct parish, since abolished, but now about to be 
 divided from Dundonald for both civil and ecclesiastical 
 purposes. The church, erected in 1838, on a site pre- 
 sented by the Lord Justice General, is a handsome sub- 
 stantial structure containing 900 sittings. The minister, 
 who is chosen by a committee of subscribers, has a sti- 
 pend of £88. 6. 8., derived from seat-rents and collec- 
 VoL. I.— 473 
 
 tions, and guaranteed by bond. A school in connexion 
 with the Established Church is supported by the General 
 Assembly, who allow the master a salary of £1.5, in addi- 
 tion to the fees : the school-house, capable of containing 
 300 children, was erected at an expense of £.500, obtained 
 from the trustees of Dr. Bell's bequest for educational 
 purposes. 
 
 FUNGARTH, a hamlet, in the parish of Caputh, 
 county of Perth ; containing 76 inhabitants. 
 
 FYVIE, a parish, in the district of Turriff, county 
 of Aberdeen, 7| miles (S. S. W.) from Cuminestown ; 
 containing 3.597 inhabitants. This place, the name of 
 which (anciently Fijnjn) is of doubtful etymology, is 
 chiefly distinguished for its castle, whose original founder 
 is unknown, but which in 1296 was visited by Edward I. 
 of England in his progress through Scotland. The castle 
 appears to have been of considerable strength. It 
 was in 1395 in the possession of Sir James Lindesay, 
 during whose absence it was valiantly defended by his 
 lady against Robert, son of the Earl-Marischal Keith, 
 till the return of Sir James, who compelled the assailants 
 to raise the siege. In 1644, it was held for some time 
 by the Marquess of Montrose against the army of the 
 Earl of Argyll ; but the marquess, not thinking it secure 
 from the superior forces of his adversary, retired to an 
 eminence in the vicinity, in which he intrenched himself 
 till his retreat to Strathbogie. From certain records 
 still preserved in the castle, there seems to have been a 
 town at this place, which had the liberties of a burgh 
 under Reginald le Cheyne in the thirteenth century, 
 and in the year 1673 became a burgh of barony under 
 the Fyvie family ; but of this town not even the site can 
 now be traced. A charter is extant, granting to Alex- 
 ander, third Earl of Dunfermline, in 1673, the privilege 
 of a weekly market and three annual fairs in the manor 
 of Fyvie, and conferring upon him and his successors 
 all the rights of a free burgh of barony. Two of these 
 fairs are still held, one on Fastern's Even (Shrove Tues- 
 day), and the other, called Peter fair, on the first Tues- 
 day in July, O. S. ; but the market-cross, and every 
 other vestige of the burgh, have disappeared. 
 
 The PARISH, which is about thirteen miles in extreme 
 length, and nearly eight miles in extreme breadth, com- 
 prises an area of 27,034 acres, whereof 15,950 are arable, 
 2500 meadow and pasture, 1/35 woodland and planta- 
 tions, and the remainder heathy moorland and moss. 
 Its surface is pleasingly diversified with hills of moderate 
 height, of which the most conspicuous is that of Easter- 
 town, towards the south, forming a continuation of the 
 Bethelnie range in the adjoining parish of Meldrum. 
 The river Ythan, which has its source in the parish of 
 Forgue, about eleven miles to the west, takes its course 
 through this parish, which it divides into two nearly 
 equal parts ; and after enlivening the grounds of Fyvie 
 Castle, it runs eastward, and falls into the sea at New- 
 burgh, in the parish of Foveran. Along the banks of 
 the river, and in the plain near the castle, the soil is a 
 rich fertile loam, producing early crops : in the level 
 lands it is generally a loam, resting on a substratum of 
 gravel ; and in the northern part are large tracts of 
 moor and moss. The crops are oats, bear, barley, po- 
 tatoes, and turnips, with a few tares and peas, and a 
 little flax. The system of husbandry is improved; the 
 farm-buildings are substantial, and on the various farms 
 are not less than eighty threshing-mills, of which fortv- 
 
 3 P
 
 FY VI 
 
 G AI R 
 
 five are driven by water, aud the remainder by horses. 
 The cattle are generally of the old Aberdeenshire breed, 
 with an increasing number of a cross with the Tees- 
 water ; about 4400 head of cattle are at present fed in 
 the pastures, and 1600 sheep. A considerable number 
 of pigs are likewise reared, and sent to the London 
 market : while the produce of the dairy-farms is also 
 very great. The plantations, which are extensive and 
 well managed, consist of fir, interspersed with the most 
 usual forest-trees, all of which are in a thriving condi- 
 tion ; the principal ancient woods are on the lands of 
 Fyvie Castle, in which are many trees, oak, elm, ash, 
 &c., of stately growth. The chief substrata are whin- 
 stone and sandstone ; but from the great dip of the 
 beds, the quarries are difficult to work, and few blocks 
 have been raised. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £10,224. 
 
 Fyvie Castle is an ancient and venerable structure, 
 built at various periods with a due regard to the pre- 
 servation of the original style. It is beautifully situated 
 on the east bank of the Ythan, in a park surrounded 
 with richly-wooded heights ; and consists of two sides 
 of a quadrangle, of which that on the south-east, called 
 the Preston tower, is supposed to have been erected about 
 the year 1400. In the south wing is the Seton tower, 
 of which the old iron-gate is yet remaining ; and over the 
 gateway are the armorial bearings of the Seton family, 
 sculptured on a tablet of freestone. To the south-west 
 is the Meldrum tower ; and at the northern extremity 
 of the western wing, is the tower erected by the late 
 Hon. General Gordon, on the site of the ancient chapel, 
 which had fallen into ruin. The whole of the castle and 
 the grounds have been lately much improved. Rotliie 
 House is a handsome modem mansion, built by the late 
 owner : it is situated on an eminence overlooking a 
 pleasing valley, and surrounded by a demesne which 
 has been laid out with great taste, and embellished with 
 thriving plantations by the present proprietor. Kin- 
 iroom House, about a mile to the west of Rothie, is also 
 a pleasant residence, commanding a fine view. Gight 
 Castle, a beautifully picturesque ruin, on the north bank 
 of the Ythan, and now the property of the Earl of Aber- 
 deen, was anciently the seat of the Gordons, maternal 
 ancestors of the late Lord Byron. There is no village 
 properly so called in the parish ; but near the church 
 are a few neat cottages, to which gardens are attached, 
 and about a quarter of a mile distant is a post-office, on 
 the turnpike-road from Aberdeen to Banff. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes, the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Turriff, synod of Aberdeen. 
 The minister's stipend is about £224, with a manse, and 
 a glebe valued at £17. 10. per annum; patron, William 
 Gordon, Esq., of Fyvie. The church, erected in 1808, 
 is a spacious plain edifice, containing 1114 sittings: in 
 the churchyard is the burying-place of the Gordons 
 of Gight, which was originally within the ancient church. 
 A chapel, where a missionary officiates, has been erected 
 at Millbrex, in the northern district of the parish, about 
 five miles from the church, at a cost of £600, towards 
 which the Earl of Aberdeen gave £100 and the site for 
 the building, the Church-Extension Committee of the 
 General Assembly £70, and the remainder was raised 
 by subscription of the parishioners of Fyvie and Mon- 
 quhitter, for whose accommodation it was built. It is a 
 neat structure containing 500 sittings ; and the minister 
 474 
 
 has a stipend of £60, of which £20 are paid from the 
 Royal Bounty, and the remainder derived from the seat- 
 rents ; with a manse, and a small glebe. There are two 
 episcopal chapels, one at Woodhead, the other at !Meikle- 
 folla ; and the members of the Free Church have also a 
 place of worship at Woodhead. The parochial school is 
 well attended; the master has a salary of £34, a house 
 and garden, and a portion of the Dick bequest, and the 
 fees and other emoluments may average £30 per annum. 
 A priory was founded here by Fergus, Earl of Buchan, 
 in 11*9, and endowed with the lands of Ardlogy and 
 Leuchendy by Reginald le Cheyne, in 1285 ; it after- 
 wards became subordinate to the abbey of Aberbrothock. 
 The buildings, which were situated on the Ythan, about a 
 mile below the castle, long ago disappeared, with the 
 exception of some faint vestiges of the chapel, which 
 may still be traced in a field near the church. There 
 are also remains of the intrenchments thrown up by the 
 Marquess of Montrose and the Earl of Argyll during the 
 civil war. 
 
 G 
 
 G'AASKER ISLE, in the parish of Harris, connty 
 of Inverness. This is a large, green, but uninhabited 
 island of the Hebrides, lying about four leagues north- 
 west from Taransay. The name is derived from the 
 Gaelic, signifying " the rock of geese", from the circum- 
 stance of its being frequented by countless numbers of 
 wild-geese. 
 
 GADGIRTH-HOLM, with Bankfoot, a hamlet, in 
 the parish of Coylton, district of Kyle, county of Ayr ; 
 containing 77 inhabitants. It is seated on the south 
 side of the river Ayr, and consists simply of a group of 
 cottages. Gadgirth House is a plain modern mansion, 
 of an oblong form, standing on the bank of the Ayr, and 
 forming the centre of a beautiful and interesting land- 
 scape. 
 
 GAIRLOCH, a parish, in the county of Ross and 
 Cromarty, 60 miles (W. by N.) from Dingwall ; in- 
 cluding the islands of Horisdale and Longo, the former 
 quoad sacra district of Poolewe, and part of that of 
 Shieldag ; and containing 4880 inhabitants. This place 
 takes its name from a salt-water lake called Gairloch, 
 from the Gaelic word g^earr, signifying " short". It is 
 not remarkable for any important historical events ; but 
 some antiquities in the parish indicate the settlement 
 and military operations of the Danes, and the celebrated 
 Loch Maree has an island in its centre, the tombstones 
 and hieroglyphical figures on which support the current 
 tradition that it was the sepulchre of Danish kings. 
 The parish is forty miles long, and thirty miles broad, 
 at its extreme points. It is bounded on the north by 
 the river Gruiuard, which separates it from Lochbroom 
 parish ; on the south by an arm of the sea ; by a chain 
 of hills on the east ; and on the west by the Minch, 
 which divides Lewis from the main land. The general 
 aspect of the surface is hilly ; and in some parts the 
 elevations are of unusual height, forming grand and ro- 
 mantic scenery. The beautiful inland water of Loch 
 Maree, eighteen miles long, with its thickly-wooded 
 islands twenty-four in number, is one of the most strik-
 
 GAIR 
 
 GALA 
 
 ing features in the parish, and has long been the admira- 
 tion of the traveller, not only for its own attractions, 
 but also on account of the imposing mountain scenery 
 by which it is encompassed. A lofty range, commencing 
 on each side of it, runs to a distance of four miles beyond 
 its extremity, presenting in the group the majestic Slioch, 
 or Sliabhach, towering 3000 feet above the level of the 
 sea. The loch is of the average breadth of one mile and 
 a half ; it is about sixty fathoms deep, and was never 
 known to freeze. Among its islands is that of Maree, 
 where St. Maree, one of St. Columba's followers, dwelt, 
 and where is a consecrated well, with a burying-ground 
 supposed by some to be dedicated to the Virgin Mary, 
 and by others, as already stated, to have been the sepul- 
 chre of Danish kings. The only river of note is the 
 Ewe, which issues from Loch Maree, and after running 
 a mile north-westward, joins the estuary called Loch 
 Ewe ; it abounds with salmon of the finest quality, and 
 during the season its fame draws the lovers of angling 
 from all quarters. There are two salt-water lochs, Gair- 
 loch and Loch Ewe, the latter nine or ten miles long. 
 The climate of the parish, though mild, is very rainy, 
 occasioned partly by the prevalence of south-west winds, 
 and partly by the mountainous character of the country. 
 
 Arable land lets only at from 10*. to £1 per acre, and 
 there is much room for agricultural improvement : the 
 more respectable families have large sheep-farms, but 
 the lots of ground of the poorer inhabitants do not gene- 
 rally exceed one or two acres. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £4810. Towards the sea-coast 
 is a belt of red sandstone of the old formation, forming 
 low barren headlands. To this there succeeds, at the 
 head of Loch Gairloch, micaceous schist ; and five miles 
 farther eastward the sandstone again appears, in moun- 
 tain ridges and eminences, some of them 3000 feet high, 
 characterised by a rude grandeur seldom equalled. At 
 the head of Loch Maree, quartz succeeds the sandstone ; 
 and on the estate of Letterewe, a century and a half 
 ago, some veins of iron- ore were wrought for several 
 years ; but the wood in the neighbourhood, used for 
 fuel, failing, the adventurers were compelled to give up 
 the work. The ruins of two of the furnaces employed 
 in the operations are still to be seen. A cattle-market 
 is held in July, and cattle are also sent to Beauly ; her- 
 rings and cod are forwarded to Glasgow, wool to Liver- 
 pool and Inverness, and salmon to London. In this 
 parish the houses, generally speaking, are of the hum- 
 blest description ; and the people are employed about 
 equally between agriculture and fishing : they mostly 
 dwell in irregular hamlets, or clusters of cottages ; and 
 some of them manufacture a stout woollen-cloth and 
 coarse stockings, but chiefly for domestic wear, a small 
 quantity only of either being sent to market. The mail 
 from Dingwall to Stornoway runs through the parish 
 twice a week, but the roads are in bad condition : in- 
 deed, with the exception of ten miles of road in the cen- 
 tre of the parish, and ten miles leading to the eastern 
 extremity of Loch Maree, they arc little more than foot- 
 paths. There are four vessels belonging to the several 
 ports, of about thirty-five tons' burthen each. Flower- 
 dale, an old chateau in a vale of great beauty, is a seat 
 of Sir Francis Mackenzie's ; around it are some large 
 forest-trees. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Lochcarron, synod of Glenelg ; and the 
 
 patronage is vested in the Crown. The stipend of the 
 minister is £217, with a manse, erected in 1805 and 
 enlarged in 1823, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum. 
 Gairloch church, built in 1791, and repaired in 1834, 
 accommodates 385 persons with sittings. There is a 
 parochial school, in which English and Gaelic, Greek, 
 Latin, and mathematics are taught, with the usual 
 branches of education ; the master's salary is £30, with 
 a house, and about £4 fees. Another school is sup- 
 ported by a society. The ordinary language spoken is 
 Gaelic ; and William Ross, a respectable poet, who was 
 born in the parish, and died here about half a century 
 since, wrote in this tongue. The foundations of one or 
 two small forts can be traced near the sea-shore ; and 
 at Cairnfield are those of a large building, supposed by 
 some to have been a Culdee religious house. 
 
 GAIRNEY-BRIDGE, a hamlet, in the parish of 
 Cleish, county of Kinross, 2i miles (S. by E.) from 
 Kinross ; containing 50 inhabitants. This village takes 
 its name from its situation near a bridge over the river 
 Gairney, a stream which rises among the Cleish hills, 
 and discharges itself into Loch Leven, half a mile south 
 of Kinross. There is a Sabbath school, in which are 
 about 130 children. Michael Bruce once taught a school 
 here. 
 
 GAIRSAY, an island, in the parish of Evie and 
 Rendall, county of -Orkney ; containing 71 inha- 
 bitants. This is an isle of the Orkney group, about 
 four miles in circuit, and separated by a strait from 
 Rendall. It consists chiefly of a conical hill of consi- 
 derable altitude ; the whole of the west side is pretty 
 steep, but towards the east it is more level and fertile, 
 and in this quarter, and in the south, the lands are tole- 
 rably well cultivated. Here is a small harbour called 
 the Mill-Burn, perfectly secured on all sides by the 
 island itself, and by a holm, which covers the entrance 
 to the south, leaving a passage on each side of it to the 
 anchoring ground. 
 
 GALASHIELS, a manufacturing town and a burgh 
 of barony, partly in the parish of Galashiels, county 
 of Selkirk, and partly in the parish of Melrose, 
 county of Roxburgh, 4 miles (N. by W.) from Melrose, 
 6 miles (N. by E.) from Selkirk, and 33 (S. S. E.) from 
 Edinburgh ; the whole town containing 4536 inhabitants, 
 of whom 2061 are in Selkirkshire, and 2475 in Roxburgh- 
 shire. It is of remote antiquity, and derives its name, 
 signifying in the British language "a full stream", from 
 its situation on the river Gala, which flows through part 
 of it, and by which, in former times, it was frequently 
 inundated. This evil is now effectually checked, and the 
 river is spanned by four bridges. In the reign of David 
 II., the Scottish army was quartered in the immediate 
 neighbourhood, after the battle of Crichtondean, in 
 which the English, being taken by surprise, had been 
 defeated, and compelled to cross the Tweed near the 
 town. About a mile distant, on the road to Abbotsford, 
 is a tract formerly a marsh, but now in a state of culti- 
 vation, where some of the English forces were slain in a 
 skirmish, and in which, while draining the land, were 
 found several implements of war. In 1599, Galashiels 
 was erected into a burgh of barony; and in 1622, from 
 a report of the lords commissioners, it appears that it 
 had become of some importance, and contained not less 
 than 400 inhabitants. The town is of very pleasing ap- 
 pearance, consisting chiefly of houses built within the 
 
 3 P2
 
 GALA 
 
 GALA 
 
 last fifty or sixty years in a neat and handsome manner ; 
 the streets are partially lighted with gas, and the inha- 
 bitants are amply supplied with water. A public library, 
 supported by subscription, forms a collection of 5000 
 volumes of fjeneral literature. Galashiels also possesses 
 a most respectable circulating library and two reading 
 or news rooms, and libraries are attached to some of the 
 places of worship. 
 
 The principal trade carried on here, and to which 
 the town owes its importance and rapid increase, is the 
 woollen manufacture, which has been brought to a very 
 high state of perfection. The articles produced are, 
 narrow fancy cloths of various quality known in the 
 market as " tweeds ", ^ Saxony-wool tartan, shawls, and 
 plaids. The narrow cloths vary in price from twenty 
 to eight)' pence per yard, the |- tartan cloakings from 
 two to nine shillings per yard, and the shawls from three 
 to thirty shillings each. These articles of dress are in 
 high esteem for their texture and for the richness and 
 variety of their colouring. There are eleven factories in 
 the town, and a twelfth is about to be erected ; they are 
 all dependent on water-power, except two which have 
 the aid of steam, and the spindles now number 17,000, 
 and the looms 563, affording together employment to 
 1400 persons. The quantity of wool annually used is 
 estimated at full 1,000,000 lb., value £80,000, principally 
 from Australasia, Germany, and other foreign countries, 
 the use of wool of home growth being nearly superseded: 
 the yearly value of finished goods is £'200,000. The 
 great increase of the trade of Galashiels may be under- 
 stood from the statement of the fact that, seventy or 
 eighty years ago, only 7'2'2 stone of wool were used by 
 the clothiers, and scarcely as much more could be manu- 
 factured by private persons. In the year 1790, it ap- 
 pears that 243 packs of wool, each pack containing 
 twelve stone of twenty-four lb., were purchased by the 
 manufacturers ; besides which, they received from differ- 
 ent quarters wool, yarn, and weaved cloth, to a con- 
 siderable amount, to be dyed and dressed. At that 
 period, about '250 women were constantly engaged in 
 spinning wool ; there were also occasional spinners ; 
 and three machines, having each thirty or thirty-six 
 spindles, were employed two or three days in the week : 
 the number of looms was only forty-three. Hosiery 
 goods are made to a small extent ; there are likewise a 
 tannery, two skinneries, several forges for the manufac- 
 ture of machinery required for the factories, and a 
 thriving brewery. Three banks have branches here. 
 The market, held on Monday, was formerly of consider- 
 able note, but has now unaccountably fallen into disuse, 
 and the fairs are very indifferently attended. The post- 
 office has two deliveries a day; and facility of commu- 
 nication is afforded by the Edinburgh and Hawick rail- 
 way, lately opened, and by excellent roads in every direc- 
 tion. The burgh is governed by a bailie, appointed by 
 Hugh Scott, Esq., of Gala, the lord of the manor ; but 
 though he has the right of jurisdiction common to burghs 
 of barony, he now holds no courts either civil or cri- 
 minal, and the police of the town is managed principally 
 by the two counties in which Galashiels is situated. 
 
 The PARISH consists of the old parishes of Galashiels 
 and Lindean, the former situated in Selkirkshire, and 
 the latter in Roxburghshire. No part of the town is in 
 Lindean. The parish is nearly eight miles in length, 
 about three miles in average breadth, and is bounded by 
 476 
 
 the parishes of Melrose, Bowden, Selkirk, and Stow : the 
 rivers Tweed, Ettrick, and Gala either skirt or flow 
 through it, and the banks of the two first are richly 
 clothed with wood, and display much beautiful scenery. 
 It comprises more than 10,000 acres, of which about 
 one-half are arable, 500 woodland and plantations, and 
 the remainder hill-pasture. The surface is diversified 
 with hills and narrow winding glens, and some of the 
 former have a considerable elevation, the highest being 
 the Meigle, anciently Amulet Megs, which commands 
 the tow-n, and is nearly 1500 feet above the level of the 
 sea : the loftier lands embrace interesting views of the 
 mansions and grounds of Abbotsford, Torwoodlee, Yair, 
 and Sunderland, the vale and abbey of Melrose, and the 
 rivers above mentioned. The chief lake is Loch Cauld- 
 shiels, which is about a mile and a half in circumference, 
 of great depth, and well stocked with perch and pike ; 
 it is greatly adorned on one side by the woods of Abbots- 
 ford. The rivers abound with salmon and trout ; the 
 fishery on the Tweed has for some years been placed 
 under salutary regulations, and at present does not com- 
 mence till the 15th of February. 
 
 The SOIL of the parish is various ; in some places a 
 rich black loam, in others a stiff retentive clay, and on 
 the banks of the rivers of a very sandy quality. The 
 crops are oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips. 
 Generally the cultivated lauds have been well drained 
 and inclosed ; and bone-dust, guano, and other foreign 
 manures are much in use : the farm-houses and offices 
 are commodious, and all the more recent improvements 
 in husbandry have been adopted. Great attention is 
 paid to live stock ; the breed of cattle has been much 
 improved, and the sheep in the low grounds are the 
 Leicester, and in the high grounds Cheviot and half- 
 bred. The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £9649, including £2'215 for the Roxburghshire portion. 
 The plantations are of Scotch, spruce, and larch firs, 
 intermixed with oak, ash, elm, beech, and sycamore ; 
 they are well managed, and in a very thriving condition. 
 In this parish the substrata are greywacke, clay-slate, 
 and ironstone. The seats are. Gala House, a handsome 
 mansion in a well-planted demesne, ornamented with 
 ancient trees of stately growth ; and Faldouside, a very 
 neat modem erection. Ecclesiastically the parish is in 
 the presbytery of Selkirk, synod of Merse and Teviot- 
 dale, and in the patronage of Hugh Scott, Esq., of Gala : 
 the minister's stipend is £'211. 11., with a manse, garden, 
 and glebe, valued at £40 per annum. Galashiels church, 
 erected in 1813, is a good structure in the later Enghsh 
 style of architecture, with a square embattled tower. 
 There are places of worship in the parish for the United 
 Presbyterian Synod, members of the Free Church, 
 Baptists, and Independents. The parochial school affords 
 a liberal course of instruction, and is well attended ; the 
 master has a salary of £34, with about £70 fees, and a 
 house and garden. There are two schools in the rural 
 districts; the master of one has a salary of £8, and of 
 the other £5, in addition to the fees. Societies of various 
 descriptions exist w hich afford rehef to their members in 
 cases of distress. Vestiges of two encampments, both 
 supposed to be of Roman origin, may be traced on the 
 estates of Faldonside and Fairnilee. Nothing is left of 
 the church of Lindean, which was abandoned, on account 
 of extreme dilapidation, nearly forty years before the two 
 parishes were united. 

 
 GALL 
 
 GALS 
 
 GALDRY, a village, in the parish of Balmerino, 
 district of Cupar, county of Fife, 4 miles (S. W.) from 
 Newport; containing 355 inhabitants. In the parish are 
 two ridges, and nearly in the centre of the southern 
 ridge is a large extent of high table-land, in which this 
 village is placed. Galdry stands on the road from New- 
 burgh to Newport. 
 
 GALLATOWN, a village, in the parish of Dvsart, 
 district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, I mile (N. N. W.) 
 from Dysart ; containing 1198 inhabitants. This village 
 is supposed to have derived its name from the circum- 
 stance of the land on which part of it is built having 
 anciently been a place for the execution of criminals. 
 It stands on the road from Dysart to Falkland, is of 
 considerable extent, and divided into two portions called 
 East and West Gallatown. The inhabitants were formerly 
 engaged in the manufacture of nails, which was largely 
 established here : since the decline of that trade, the 
 population have found ample employment in the weav- 
 ing of checks and ticking, in agriculture, and in the 
 mines and quarries in the neighbourhood. Great facility 
 of intercourse is afforded by the Edinburgh, Perth, and 
 Dundee railway. 
 
 GALLOWAY, NEW, a 
 royal burgh, in the parish of 
 Kells, stewartry of Kirk- 
 cudbright, 19 miles (N. by 
 \V.) from Kirkcudbright, and 
 ■25 (\V.) from Dumfries ; con- 
 taining 403 inhabitants. This 
 place, which is of no very 
 great antiquity, is situated 
 on the west bank of the 
 river Ken, about a mile north 
 
 _ . „ . of Kenmure Castle, the an- 
 
 Hurgli ieal. ^-^^^^ ^^^^ ^f ^j^^ j-^^jj^ ^^ 
 
 Gordon, Viscounts Kenmure and Lords of Lochinvar, 
 whose titles were forfeited in 1715, were restored by act 
 of parliament in 18'24, and became dormant on the death 
 of Adam, ninth viscount, in 1847. Over the river is a 
 handsome bridge of granite, comprising five arches ; the 
 central arch has a span of ninety feet. The town con- 
 sists chiefly of one main street, from which diverge two 
 smaller streets, extending along the roads from Kirkcud- 
 bright to Newton-Stewart and to Dumfries. The houses 
 are but of indifferent appearance, and the inhabitants are 
 mostly occupied in the various handicraft trades requi- 
 site for the accommodation of the neighbourhood. There 
 are several shops, and three good inns ; a branch of the 
 Edinburgh and Glasgow Bank has been established, and 
 facility of communication is maintained by the turn- 
 pike-roads, and other roads which are kept in good repair. 
 Four fairs of some importance were formerly held here, 
 and those in April, at Midsummer, and at Hallowtide are 
 still tolerably attended, but chiefly for hiring servants. 
 The inhabitants received a charter from Charles I. dated 
 1 5th January, 1629, by which all the privileges of a 
 royal burgh were conferred on the town, and the 
 government was vested in a provost, four bailies, a dean 
 of guild, a treasurer, and twelve common-councilmen ; 
 but in 1708, by an act of the Convcnticm of Royal 
 Burghs, the corporation was made to consist of a pro- 
 vost, two bailies, a treasurer, and council of fifteen. 
 Courts are held by the sheriff and justices of peace on 
 the first Monday in every month. The town-hall, at- 
 477 
 
 tached to which is a gaol for debtors and criminals, is 
 situated in the main street, and has a steeple with a 
 clock. New Galloway is joined with Wigtown, Stran- 
 raer, and Whithorn, in returning a member to the im- 
 perial parliament ; the constituency, however, does not 
 exceed fourteen. 
 
 GALLOWLAW, a hamlet, in the parish of Pan- 
 bride, county of Forfar ; containing 79 inhabitants. 
 It is one of several hamlets, or groups of cottages, in the 
 parish. 
 
 GALSTON, a parish, in the district of Kyle, county 
 of Ayr, 5 miles (E. by S.) from Kilmarnock ; con- 
 taining, with the village of Greenholme, 4334 inhabit- 
 ants. This parish, which is fancifully supposed to have 
 derived its name from the temporary settlement of a 
 number of Gauls, is thirteen miles in length, and from 
 one to five miles broad ; comprising 14,577 acres, of 
 which more than one-half are arable, 1000 woodland 
 and plantations, and the remainder pasture and waste. 
 It is bounded on the north by the river Irvine ; on the 
 east by the river Avon, dividing it from the parish of 
 Avondale, in Lanarkshire ; and on the west by the river 
 Cessnock, which separates it from the parishes of Ric- 
 carton and Craigie. The surface is diversified with hills, 
 the chief of which are Distinethorn and Molmont hill, 
 the former having an elevation of 1100, and the latter 
 of 1000, feet above the level of the sea ; the scenery is 
 pleasingly varied, and in some parts enriched with wood 
 and flourishing plantations. There were formerly several 
 lakes in the parish ; but in the agricultural improve- 
 ments that have taken place, they have been all drained 
 and brought into cultivation, with the exception of 
 Loch Gait, which, however, is little more than an incon- 
 siderable tract of marsh. The soil is various : in the 
 higher lands, a loam intermixed with sand, and some- 
 times with moss ; and along the banks of the Irvine, a 
 rich loam : in other parts, a variety of clay is most pre- 
 valent. The crops are, grain of different kinds, potatoes, 
 and turnips. The system of agriculture is advanced, and 
 much previously unproductive land has been rendered 
 fertile by the practice of furrow-draining, which, by 
 the liberal encouragement afforded by the proprietors, 
 has been carried on to a very great extent. The dairy- 
 farms are extensive and well managed, and about 210 
 tons of cheese are annually produced ; the cows are 
 usually of the Ayrshire breed. Considerable numbers of 
 black-cattle are reared ; the sheep are of the black-faced 
 kind, and much attention is paid to the improvement of 
 live stock generally. The farm-buildings are substantial 
 and commodious, and those of more recent erection are 
 of superior order ; the lands are inclosed, and the fences 
 well kept up. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £10,448. 
 
 In this parish the woods are of oak, elm, ash, and 
 other forest-trees ; and the plantations, larch and fir, 
 intermixed with oak, asli, and elm. The substrata are 
 red sandstone, alternated with whinstone, coal, limestone, 
 and ironstone : the general dip of the strata throughout 
 is north-west. In the channel of a small burn running 
 into the Irvine, are some beautiful pebbles pecvdiar to 
 this place, called Galston pebbles ; and on Molmont hill 
 are found numerous nodules of agate and chalcedony. 
 Coal, of which there are three seams six feet in thick- 
 ness, and one of three feet, and limestone, are both 
 worked, but not to any great extent beyond what is re-
 
 G A M R 
 
 G A M R 
 
 quisite for the neighbourhood; and paving-stone and 
 roofing-slate are quarried. There is a large work for the 
 manufacture of draining tiles on the estate of the Duke of 
 Portland, and another on that of Mr. Brown, for the 
 supply of the dilferent farms ; the clay is found in abun- 
 dance, and is of good quality. Lanfine is a handsome 
 mansion surrounded with extensive grounds and thriving 
 plantations ; Holms, in the ancient English style, is a 
 modern mansion of elegant design ; and Cessnock, an 
 ancient house belonging to the Duke of Portland, is an 
 interesting structure. The village is pleasantly situated ; 
 many of the inhabitants are engaged in weaving for the 
 manufacturers of Glasgow and Paisley, and a few have 
 introduced the weaving of fancy silks. There are four 
 corn-mills, a mill for fla.x, a paper-mill, and a saw-mill. 
 Four fairs are held annually in the village, of which those 
 of any importance are on the third Thursday in April 
 and the first in December. A post has been established 
 here, which has a regular delivery ; and facility of com- 
 munication is afforded with Kilmarnock and the neigh- 
 bouring towns by roads kept in excellent repair : the 
 turnpike-road from Glasgow to London passes within 
 the limits of the parish. Great facility of intercourse is 
 also afforded by the Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle 
 railway, which has a station called the Galston station. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the 
 Duke of Portland: the minister's stipend is £178. 16., 
 with a manse and glebe, each valued at £1.5 per annum. 
 Galston church, situated in the centre of the village, is 
 a neat and substantial edifice with a handsome spire, 
 erected in 1808, and adapted for a congregation of 10-28 
 persons. There are places of worship for the Free Church 
 and United Presbyterian Synod. The parochial school 
 is well conducted ; the master has a salary of £34, with 
 £5.5 fees, and a house and garden. There are two other 
 schools, the masters of which receive an annual payment 
 of £5. 12. from the heritors. The late Mr. Charles 
 Blair, of Longhouse, bequeathed £4000 for the founda- 
 tion and endowment of a free school in the parish, when 
 the bequest, by the accumulation of interest, should pro- 
 duce £200 per annum : this has been accomplished, and 
 the school has been in operation some years. John 
 Brown, Esq., of Waterhaughs, also bequeathed £1000, 
 the interest of which is appropriated to the clothing and 
 education of children of the poor. In the parish are the 
 remains of a very extensive Roman camp, the ramparts 
 of which, though in some places greatly obliterated by 
 the plough, still mark out an area nearly 300 yards in 
 length, and 120 yards in breadth. On this spot was 
 found, in 1831, a silver coin with the legend Casar Au- 
 gustus Divi F. Pater Patrice ; and to the east, in the pa- 
 rish of Avondale, several others have been discovered, 
 with the inscription Divus Jntoniniis. Near the site of 
 the camp was the scene of an encounter between William 
 Wallace, who with fifty of his men lay concealed here, 
 and Fenwick, an English officer, with a force of 200, 
 whom the Scottish hero signally defeated. Other coins, 
 bearing the inscriptions Alexander, David, and Edward, 
 have been found. On the bank of the Avon, and nearly 
 surrounded by the river, are the remains of some earth- 
 works called Main Castle, most probably connected with 
 the Roman camp. 
 
 GAMRIE, a parish, in the county of Banff, 6^ miles 
 (E.) from Banff; containing, with the burgh of Macduff 
 4/8 
 
 and the villages of Crovie and Gardenstown, 4741 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 2001 are in the rural districts. The 
 name of this place, in the Gaelic language, has reference 
 to a memorable victory obtained here over the Danes, by 
 the Thane of Buchan, about the commencement of the 
 eleventh century ; in gratitude for which, and in fulfil- 
 ment of his vow, he erected the ancient church in the 
 year 1004, which date may still be seen over one of its 
 windows. The parish is bounded on the north by the 
 Moray Firth ; on the east by the burn of Nethermill, 
 which separates it from the parish of Aberdour ; and on 
 the west by the river Doveron, dividing it from the pa- 
 rish of Banff. It is about ten miles in length, varies 
 from three to four miles in breadth, and comprises an 
 area of 21,500 acres, whereof 10,000 are arable, 750 
 woodland and plantations, and the remainder (of which 
 perhaps 4000 acres might be brought into profitable cul- 
 tivation) rough pasture and waste. The surface is strik- 
 ingly diversified with hills, precipitous rocks, and deep 
 glens, most of which are covered with verdure ; and is 
 interspersed with fertile valleys and level tracts in good 
 cultivation. The coast, extending more than ten miles, 
 is bold and rugged, and girt with an indented ledge of 
 rocks rising precipitously to a height of 600 feet above 
 the level of the Firth, and perforated with caverns of ro- 
 mantic appearance. Gamrie bay, in the east, is formed 
 by two projecting headlands, one of which is called 
 Gamrie Head, and the other, and the more prominent, 
 is Troup Head, near the eastern extremity of the parish ; 
 westward are Melrose Head, and the Coley rock, near 
 the harbour of Macduff, in the bay of Banff. The rocks 
 on the coast are frequented by multitudes of sea-fowl of 
 almost every variety, the most numerous of which are 
 the kittywake, the razor-bill, the guillemot, and the 
 puffin, each selecting its peculiar ledge for the purpose 
 of incubation. Haddock, ling, cod, and herrings, with 
 various kinds of flat and shell fish, are taken in abun- 
 dance, yielding annually on an average a return of more 
 than £13,000. The river Doveron, which abounds with 
 salmon, and in which and the adjoining bay is a fishery 
 belonging to the Earl of Fife, producing a rent of £2000, 
 flows along the west border of the parish. The burn 
 of Nethermill and the Logic, the former of which joins 
 the sea at Nethermill, and the latter, after a circuitous 
 course, falls into the Doveron, are the only rivulets of 
 importance. 
 
 The SOIL, which is extremely various in different parts 
 of the parish, has been greatly improved by the use of 
 lime brought from England, and of bone-dust. The 
 system of husbandry has been gradually advancing, and 
 the chief crops are oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips : 
 bear is raised on some farms, but wheat, beans, and peas 
 are very rarely attempted. Large quantities of grain are 
 sent to the London markets, and barley and bear are 
 sold to the breweries and distilleries in the adjacent dis- 
 tricts. The cattle, of which considerable numbers are 
 shipped from the ports in the parish, are generally the 
 Aberdeenshire, with some of the short-horned breed : 
 the sheep pastured, which are comparatively few in num- 
 ber, are partly of the Cheviot, and partly of the Leices- 
 tershire breed. The annual value of real property in 
 Gamrie is £8231. There are some luxuriant belts of 
 natural wood in the western portion of the parish ; and 
 very extensive plantations have been formed in the Tore 
 of Troup, which, together with those around Troup
 
 CARD 
 
 G A R G 
 
 House, occupy more than 700 acres of land, consisting 
 chiefly of beech and Scotch fir, with larch, the last now 
 becoming more prevalent. The rocks are principally 
 composed of greywacke, greywacke-slate, and clay-slate: 
 the greywacke is occasionally quarried for building, and 
 the clay-slate was formerly wrought for roofing, but has 
 been superseded by the primary slate obtained in Foud- 
 land and Easdale. Troup House is a spacious mansion, 
 built in 1772, and commanding an extensive view of the 
 sea ; the demesne is tastefully laid out, and embellished 
 with natural wood and thriving plantations. This seat 
 was suffered to fall into neglect during the minority of 
 the present proprietor, who built a picturesque Norwe- 
 gian cottage for his residence at Torewood. There is a 
 small hamlet called Longman, the building of which was 
 commenced by the late Earl of Fife, who allotted some 
 waste land in small portions on the hill of Longman, on the 
 road from Peterhead to Banff. Facility of communica- 
 tion is afforded by the turnpike-road to Banff, and by 
 various other good roads which intersect the parish ; a 
 messenger delivers letters on alternate days from Banff 
 and Fraserburgh, and application has been made for es- 
 tablishing an office at Dubford, in the parish, where 
 cross-roads branch off in all directions. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Turriff, synod of Aberdeen. 
 The minister's stipend is £224. 13., with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £10 per annum; patron, the Crown. 
 The present church, erected in 1 830, and situated in a 
 central part of the parish, is a handsome structure in the 
 later English style, containing 1000 sittings. A chapel 
 of ease in connexion with the Established Church was 
 erected and endowed by the late Earl of Fife at Macduff, 
 to which a district of the parish was attached by the 
 presbytery, towards the close of the last century. The 
 parochial schools of Gamrie and Macduff are both well 
 attended : the master of each has a salary of £25. 13., 
 with a house and garden, and a portion of Dick's be- 
 quest ; the fees of the former average £25, and of the 
 latter, £50. A school-house, also, has been erected at 
 Longman by the Earl of Fife. The only striking remains 
 of antiquity are the ruins of the old church, built in 
 1004 : in the thick walls of this building were embedded 
 the skulls of three Danes who fell in the battle previously 
 noticed, one of which is preserved in the museum of the 
 literary institution at Banff. Some remains of the Da- 
 nish camp near Gamrie Head, have, from the slaughter 
 that took place there, obtained the appellation of Bloody 
 Pits ; and there is also an ancient ruin on the farm of 
 Pitgair, called Wallace's Castle, of which the history is 
 unknown. 
 
 GARDENSTOWN, a fishing-village, in the parish of 
 Gamrie, county of Banff, 7 miles (E.) from Banff; con- 
 taining 348 inhabitants. This place, which is situated 
 on the eastern shore of Gamrie bay, appears to have been 
 originally built about the year 17'20, by Alexander Gar- 
 den, Esq., of Troup, from whom it takes its name, and 
 whose descendant is the present proprietor. It is neatly 
 built at the head of the bay ; and the inhabitants are 
 chiefly employed in the fisheries off this part of the coast. 
 The fish caught here are cod, ling, haddock, whiting, and 
 various kinds of shell-fish, in taking which about twenty- 
 five boats are generally engaged ; and during the season, 
 thirty-five boats, having crews of four men each, are 
 occupied in the herring-fishery. Though small, the har- 
 479 
 
 bour is commodious and easy of access, affording secure 
 shelter to the boats engaged in the fisheries : there are 
 also three vessels belonging to the port, of 130 tons' 
 aggregate burthen, employed in the export of grain, cat- 
 tle, and fish, for the London market, and in the impor- 
 tation of lime, coal, salt, groceries, and other goods. 
 Facility of communication with Aberdeen and Banff is 
 maintained by good roads. Here is a small place of wor- 
 ship for Protestant dissenters of all denominations. 
 
 GARELOCH-HEAD, a village, in the parish of Row, 
 county of Dumbarton, 6 miles (N. N. W.) from Row ; 
 containing '217 inhabitants. This is a rising village, 
 situated, as its name imports, at the head of the Gare- 
 loch, a beautiful branch of the Firth of Clyde ; and con- 
 sists chiefly of a collection of cottages. The loch extends 
 in a northern direction about twelve miles into Dumbar- 
 tonshire, forming the east side of the peninsula of Rose- 
 neath, on which is a fine seat of the Duke of Argyll ; its 
 average breadth is about a mile, and its greatest depth 
 twenty-three fathoms. The banks of the loch are much 
 less precipitous than those of the neighbouring Loch 
 Long, which lies on the western side of the peninsula ; 
 and southward they become more level. At the entrance 
 of the Gareloch is the fine village and watering-place of 
 Helensburgh. A chapel in connexion with the Esta- 
 blishment was built by subscription at Gareloch-Head, 
 about 1838 ; and there is also a school. 
 
 GARGUNNOCK, a parish, in the county of Stir- 
 ling, 6 miles (W.) from Stirling ; containing 803 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 319 are in the village. This place, 
 anciently called Gargownno, is supposed to have derived 
 its name from the Celtic words Caer-guineach, signifying 
 " a pointed or conical fortress "' ; a building answering 
 to this description, called the Peel of Gargunnock, being 
 situated near the north-eastern extremity of the locality. 
 The parish is skirted on the south by the Lennox hills, 
 which form its boundary in that direction, and on the 
 north by the river Forth. It is six miles in length, and 
 four in breadth, comprising 9668 acres, of which 5332 
 are under cultivation, 3762 in natural pasture, and 574 
 wood and plantations. The hills rise 1400 feet above 
 the level of the sea, commanding from their summits one 
 of the most extensive, varied, and beautiful views in the 
 country ; and from these higher grounds the whole of 
 the lands slope northwards, terminating in the plain 
 reaching to the Forth. The river is here about sixty 
 feet broad and twelve deep, and contains large quan- 
 tities of pike, eels, perch, trout, and salmon : the two 
 last, however, from the casting of moss into the stream, 
 are not so numerous as formerly. In addition to the 
 Forth with its picturesque meanderings, and besides the 
 many springs in the parish, which afford a constant 
 supply of excellent water, there are several burns run- 
 ning in various directions, of which those of Leckie, 
 Gargunnock, and Boquhan abound in fine trout, and the 
 vicinity of the last is enriched by a glen of its own name, 
 so beautifully wild and romantic as to produce a very 
 striking effect on the mind of the spectator. Cascades 
 are to be seen in different places, enlivening the moun- 
 tain ravines ; and besides almost every description of 
 wild animals and birds usually found in the country, the 
 district is remarkable for its roc-deer, which breed in the 
 glens in great numbers. 
 
 The lands may be portioned into three distinct kinds, 
 moor, dry-field, and carse, the soils of which vary con-
 
 G A RG 
 
 G A R I 
 
 siderably. The first of these tracts, on which sheep and 
 black-cattle are pastured in summer, is a wet gravel 
 and clay ; the dry-field for the most part sandy and 
 clayey, with a little loam ; and the last-named district a 
 deep rich clayey earth, resting on a subsoil principally 
 of blue clay. Below this blue clay, about ten feet from 
 the surface, is a layer of sea- shells, which is indeed 
 found throughout the whole strath of Monteith, extend- 
 ing twenty miles in length and between three and four 
 in breadth, and is considered a certain indication of this 
 part of the country having originally formed a portion of 
 the bed of the ocean. Afterwards, this extensive tract 
 was overgrown with wood, called, in the time of the 
 Romans, the Caledonian forest, and cut down by that 
 people in the beginning of the third century. On the 
 dry-field portion, oats, barley, hay, and green crops con- 
 stitute the chief produce ; while wheat, beans, oats, bar- 
 ley, and hay are grown on the carse land. The sheep 
 are in general the black-faced, and Ayrshire cattle 
 and Clydesdale horses are reared ; many swine, also, 
 are bred, some of which are small, but others very 
 large. Great attention is paid to husbandry, and a 
 rotation of crops is regularly followed : draining has 
 been extensively practised, particularly the improved 
 method by wedge- drains, to the great advantage of the 
 soil ; and good farm-houses and offices, with excellent 
 fences, have been raised. Roads have been also con- 
 structed in different directions; and these various im- 
 provements, with numerous others, have increased the 
 price of land within the last forty or fifty years to double 
 its former amount : the annual value of real property 
 in the parish is now £6856. The rocks in the hills 
 consist of whinstone ; and those in the dry-land por- 
 tion, of red and white sandstone, of each of which there 
 are quarries. Limestone is found in great abundance 
 under the white sandstone ; veins of spar exist near the 
 hills, and it is confidently asserted that coal might be 
 obtained on the estate of Gargunnock. Peat is plentiful 
 on parts of the Lennox range, and is sometimes cut ; 
 but the principal fuel in use is coal brought from Ban- 
 nockburn, nine miles distant. The natural wood com- 
 prises oak, ash, birch, and willow ; the plantations con- 
 sist principally of Scotch and silver fir, elm, larch, and 
 plane. 
 
 The oldest mansion is that of Gargunnock ; the next 
 in date is the seat of Boquhan, built about the begin- 
 ning of the present century, and the barony of which 
 name was formerly possessed by the Grahams. Leckie 
 is a still more modern structure, in imitation of the old 
 English baronial residence ; it is surrounded by beau- 
 tiful grounds, and commands a fine view of the strath of 
 Monteith. Meiklewood was erected recently by Colonel 
 Graham, to whom the parish is indebted for a handsome 
 suspension-bridge built over the Forth, at his own cost, 
 about seventeen years since, near the line of the Dumbar- 
 ton road, and also for a new road, two miles long, running 
 from the bridge to the great road from Stirling to Cal- 
 lander ; by which, excellent means of communication 
 have been opened through a highly interesting tract of 
 country. The village, which is in the barony of Gar- 
 gunnock, stands on a declivity near the church, and 
 commands a richly-diversified prospect of the surround- 
 ing district. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the pres- 
 bytery of Stirling, synod of Perth and Stirling, and in 
 the patronage of Sir Francis Walker Drummond, Bart. 
 480 
 
 The minister's stipend is £150, of which about a sixth 
 part is received from the exchequer ; with a manse, and 
 a glebe of seven acres, valued at £15. 10. per annum. 
 Gargunnock church was built in 1774, and is a plain 
 building with three galleries, the whole containing 500 
 sittings. The members of the Free Church have a place 
 of worship. The parochial schoolmaster receives a 
 salary of £^5. 13., and £11 fees, with a small glebe. 
 There is a subscription library ; and the parish has two 
 charitable bequests, one of £260, and the other of £365. 
 A farmers' club was instituted in 1796 by General Camp- 
 bell of Boquhan, and in 1S07 he enriched it by a bequest 
 of £500, since which time £100 have been left for the 
 same object by Laird Kay : eleven parishes are enti- 
 tled to the benefit of it, namely, Gargunnock, Stirling, 
 St. Ninian's, Kippen, Fintry, Balfron, Killearn, Drymen, 
 Port of Monteith, Kincardine, and Kilmadock. At the 
 burn of Boquhan are two chalybeate springs, which are 
 considered of great efficacy, though not much frequented. 
 Keir-hill, the top of which measures about 140 yards in 
 circumference, was a fortified station in the thirteenth 
 century ; and the Peel of Gargunnock, situated on an 
 eminence near the Forth, and surrounded by a rampart 
 and ditch, once gave protection to the English till they 
 were dislodged by Sir William Wallace, who occupied 
 Keir-hill, just mentioned. 
 
 GARIOCH, CHAPEL OF, a parish, in the district 
 of Garioch, county of Aberdeen, 5 miles (N. W.) from 
 Inverury ; containing 203S inhabitants. This place was 
 formerly called Logie Durno or Durnock, words signi- 
 fying " a low or hollow place"; but upon the annexation 
 of the parsonage of Fetternear, situated on the north of 
 the river Don, to the parsonage of this parish, on the 
 north side of the Urie, early in the seventeenth century, 
 the church of Logie Durno was disused, and a new one 
 built on the spot where had once been a chapel called 
 Capella Beata Maries f'irginis, de Garryoch, whence the 
 present name of the parish. The district is celebrated 
 in history for the sanguinary battle of Harlaw, which 
 was fought here on the 24th of July, 1411, between the 
 Earl of Mar, who commanded the royal army, and 
 Donald, Lord of the Isles, and which was fatal to so 
 many of the nobility and gentry, and of the bravest sol- 
 diers in the country, that, according to Buchanan the 
 historian, there perished in this conflict more illustrious 
 men than had fallen in foreign warfare during many years. 
 Donald, having ravaged and plundered other parts, had 
 invited his Highland followers to seize and pillage Aber- 
 deen, and was proceeding thither for that purpose, when 
 the Duke of Albany, who was regent, gave the Earl of 
 Mar a commission to collect troops to oppose him. In 
 consequence of this, the Earl of Mar marched from 
 Aberdeen at the head of a noble train, gathered from 
 ditfcrent quarters, and met Donald with a force nearly 
 ten times as large as his own, at the little village of Har- 
 law, a short distance from the confluence of the Water of 
 Urie with the Don. Here the earl attacked the army of 
 Donald, 10,000 strong, with such vigour that he quickly 
 penetrated into the midst of it ; but the Highlanders, 
 making up by numbers what they wanted in discipline 
 and in armour, returned the attacks of the earl and his 
 veterans with their usual courage and impetuosity, and 
 a succession of conflicts was carried on through the day, 
 which, while they produced the most dreadful carnage 
 on both sides, had given, when night ended the slaugh- 
 
 M
 
 G A R I 
 
 G A RI 
 
 ter, victory to neither. The Highland chief retired 
 from the field ; the earl was compelled to remain till 
 the morning, through wounds and exhaustion. In the 
 following century, Queen Mary, in her journey to the 
 north, previoTisly to the battle of Corrichie, passed a 
 day here, at Balquhain Castle, the ancient seat of the 
 Leslies, and is said to have attended mass in the parish 
 church. Many years afterwards, the unfortunate Mar- 
 quess of Montrose, when the Covenanters had triumphed, 
 arrived at the castle of Pitcaple, in the custody of Gene- 
 rals Leslie and Strachan, who thence conducted their 
 illustrious captive, seated on a Highland pony, and 
 ignominiously attired, to the city of Edinburgh, where 
 he was executed on the 2 1st of May, 1650. Charles IL, 
 upon his return from Holland in the same year, was 
 entertained at this castle in a very sumptuous manner, 
 on which occasion a ball took place on the lawn, under 
 a thorn-tree which is still standing, and which is said to 
 exceed in size all others in this part of Britain. 
 
 The PARISH, the figure of which is very irregular, is 
 eleven miles in length from north to south, and varies 
 in breadth from two to five miles. It comprises 11,427 
 acres, of which 8342 are under tillage, including twelve 
 acres of garden and orchard ground ; 1010 waste, in- 
 cluding nearly 900 acres capable of profitable cultivation; 
 110 moss; and 1965 wood and plantations. The sur- 
 face is diversified by two considerable ridges, one on the 
 north, and the other on the south, side of the Urie or 
 Ury, and stretching nearly in the same direction with 
 the stream, the interjacent vale being well defended by 
 the hilly ground on each side, and watered by the river 
 for about five or six miles. The Ury is celebrated for its 
 fine trout, and, at a small distance from the parish, falls 
 into the Don. The Don forms about three miles of the 
 southern boundary of the parish in its passage to the 
 German Ocean, which it reaches at a mile from Aber- 
 deen : it is well stocked with salmon, eels, trout, and 
 pike. The eminence on which the church stands, south 
 of the Ury, and by which the old turnpike-road from 
 Aberdeen passed, commands in one part an interesting 
 view of both local and distant scenery, especially of the 
 Garioch district, the prospect embracing nine churches. 
 
 This parish is entirely agricultural ; and the vale, in- 
 terspersed by beautifully-formed knolls, of which that of 
 Dun-o-deer is the most conspicuous, is under good cul- 
 tivation. The crops, comprehending grain of various 
 kinds, are indeed so heavy that Garioch is frequently 
 called the Granary of Aberdeenshire ; and they are in 
 general more early in appearance even than those in 
 some of the southern parts, on account of the richness 
 of the soil. A fine black loam occurs in many places; 
 a good clay in others, on a tilly subsoil ; and near the 
 rivers, a rich vegetable mould, on gravel. Wheat, which 
 formerly was grown in but small quantities, is now more 
 extensively produced ; and all the usual green crops are 
 raised in abundance. The cattle are chiefly a cross be- 
 tween the Aberdeenshire and Teeswater, or Buchan and 
 Teeswater, and are fed in numbers, either to be sold 
 to the butcher, or sent by sea to the London market. 
 The rotation system of husbandry is practised ; the 
 application of bone manure has been found of great ser- 
 vice to the crops of turnips, and the parish has been 
 improved in various other respects during the present 
 century, especially by the inclosures and extensive drains 
 which have been made, and by the erection of good 
 Vol. L— 481 
 
 farm-houses and oflUces. Much waste land has been 
 reclaimed ; and a far larger number of cattle than for- 
 merly are reared for sale, through the advance of turnip 
 husbandry. In the parish are seven corn-mills, con- 
 nected with which are five barley-mills ; another barley- 
 mill, and a lint-mill; two mills for carding and spinning 
 wool, and three saw-mills. The annual value of real 
 property in Chapel of Garioch is £"335. The rocks 
 consist of whinstone and granite, the former of which 
 comprises nearly the whole of the strata to the north of 
 the Ury, and for two miles south of it ; the granite runs 
 through the remainder of the district. The hill of Ben- 
 ochie, in the parish of Oyne, supplies a stone for the 
 erection of mansion-houses and farm-steadings ; and 
 the granite obtained from this quarter admits of a fine 
 polish, and has been employed for chimney-pieces in 
 some of the best residences. Benoehie hill is a com- 
 mon to several parishes, but lies altogether within the 
 parish of Oyne. The wood consists for the most part 
 of larch, spruce, and Scotch firs, and has nearly all been 
 planted within the present century, with the exception 
 of several fine old plane, horse-chesnut, beech, and fir- 
 trees on the lawns of the mansion-houses. In this pa- 
 rish the seats are four in number, and contribute, with 
 their beautiful grounds and plantations, to heighten in 
 no small degree the general effect of the scenery. Logie- 
 Elphinstone is situated upon the north bank of the 
 Ury, and Pitcaple on the other side. The mansion of 
 Pittodrie stands on an acclivity on the eastern side of 
 the hill of Benoehie, which rises 1400 feet above the sea, 
 and commands extensive prospects ; while the mansion 
 of Fetternear, the ancient summer residence of the 
 bishops of Aberdeen, built in 1329 by Bishop Kinin- 
 month, stands on the north bank of the Don, and, like 
 the others, is pleasantly situated. A new road has been 
 made to Aberdeen, and the marketable produce is gene- 
 rally sent to that city, being conveyed to Port-Elphin- 
 stone, six miles distant, and thence transmitted to its 
 destination by the canal. 
 
 Chapel of Garioch is the seat of the presbytery of 
 Garioch, in the synod of Aberdeen, and the living is in 
 the patronage of Sir James Elphinstone Dalrymple, Bart. 
 The minister's stipend is £218, with a manse, and a 
 glebe of eighteen acres, valued at £16 per annum. The 
 church is a neat and commodious edifice, built in 1813, 
 and contains SOO sittings. A second church was opened 
 in June 1839, at Blairdaff, in the southern part of the 
 parish, about four miles and a half from the mother 
 church; it contains 500 sittings. This edifice was 
 erected at a cost of about £500, by subscription, aided 
 by a grant from the General Assembly's church exten- 
 sion fund ; the ground for the site and burying-ground 
 was given by Robert Grant, Esq., of Tillyfour. The 
 accommodation is shared by parts of the adjacent pa- 
 rishes of Oyne and Monymusk, which subscribed to the 
 building, and, with the portion of this parish attached 
 to the church, constitute an ecclesiastical district com- 
 prehending 1000 persons. The members of the Free 
 Church have a place of worship. Garioch parochial 
 school affords instruction in Greek, Latin, practical 
 mathematics, and geography, with the usual elementary 
 branches ; the master has a salary of £27, a portion 
 of the Dick bequest, a house, and about £20 fees. There 
 are two other schools, partially supported by the heri- 
 tors, in which the ordinary branches are taught. The 
 
 3Q
 
 G A R M 
 
 G A R T 
 
 antiquities in the parish comprise some remains of old 
 tombs and monumental stones of warriors, and a curious 
 stone, half a mile west from the church, called the 
 " Maiden Stone", and marked with several hieroglyphics, 
 supposed by some to be Danish ; the stone is about ten 
 feet high above the ground, and reaches, as is thought, 
 six feet below the surface. The ruins of the churches of 
 Logie-Durno and Fetternear, with their cemeteries, are 
 still visible ; and half a mile to the south-east of the 
 present church, is the ruin of the castle of Balquhain, 
 the body of which is said to have been burnt down by 
 the Duke of Cumberland in 1746. Near the castle is 
 a Druidical circle in good preservation. Sir Walter 
 Farquhar, physician to George IV. while Prince Regent, 
 was the son of the Rev. Robert Farquhar, for many years 
 minister of the parish. The Earl of Mar takes the title 
 of Baron Erskine and Garioch from this district. 
 
 GARLIESTOWN, a village, in the parish of Sor- 
 BiE, county of Wigtown, "miles (S.S.E.) from Wigtown; 
 containing 656 inhabitants. This is a considerable mo- 
 dern sea-port village, founded by John, seventh Earl of 
 Galloway, when Lord Garlics. It is built in the form of 
 a crescent, and pleasantly situated along the head of a 
 bay which bears its name and affords safe anchorage for 
 vessels ; and is an excellent fishing-station. The shore 
 is flat and sandy ; the depth of water in the bay, be- 
 tween twenty and thirty feet; and a large number of 
 vessels may ride at anchor in safety in the harbour, 
 which is open to Liverpool, Whitehaven, and other 
 places on the western coast of England. About fifteen 
 vessels belong to the port, of from fifty to 100 tons' 
 burthen each ; and foreign ships occasionally touch 
 here. In the village is a rope and sailcloth manufactory. 
 There are two schools, largely endowed by the Earl and 
 Countess of Galloway, in which a number of children 
 have gratuitous instruction. 
 
 GARMOND, a village, in the parish of Monquhit- 
 TER, district of Turriff, county of Aberdeen, half a 
 mile (N.) from Cuminestown ; containing 2*26 inhabit- 
 ants. It is situated in the north-east part of the parish, 
 on the road from Cuminestown to Banff, and is a mo- 
 dern village. 
 
 GARMOUTH, a village, in the parish of Spey- 
 MOUTH, and county of Elgin, 4 miles (N. by W.) from 
 Fochabers ; containing 604 inhabitants. This is a burgh 
 of barony, situated near the mouth of the Spey, on the 
 road to Fochabers, and is now so united to the village 
 of Kingston that the two may be regarded as one place. 
 The houses, generally, are not well built ; but the streets 
 are regularly laid out, and the appearance of Garmouth 
 is rather neat and pleasing. The harbour here suffers 
 under some natural disadvantages : since the flood of 
 1 S'ZQ, it has been far from secure, and it is at present 
 unfit for the entrance of any vessels except those of 
 small burthen. A considerable trade was formerly car- 
 ried on in timber, but it has very much declined. There 
 is, however, a good traffic in the exportation of corn and 
 the importation of coal, and some excellent vessels are 
 built ; the place has, besides, the benefit of a valuable 
 salmon-fishery in the Spey. About twelve vessels be- 
 long to the port, of the aggregate burthen of nearly 700 
 tons. In 1846 an act of parliament was passed autho- 
 rizing the construction of a railway from Aberdeen to 
 Inverness, with branches to Garmouth and other places. 
 The parochial school is here. — See Kingston-Port. 
 482 
 
 GARNKIRK, county of Lanark. — See Cadder. 
 
 GARTCLOSS, a village, in that part of the parish 
 of Old Monkland which formed the quoad sacra parish 
 of Gartsherrie, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 
 '2 miles (N. \V.) from Coatbridge ; containing "206 inha- 
 bitants. It lies in the north-eastern part of the parish, 
 near the border of Cadder parish, and in the neighbour- 
 hood of the Gartcloss coal-mine, one of the most con- 
 siderable in the district. The inhabitants are chiefly 
 employed in this mine. 
 
 GARTLY, a parish, partly in the county of Banff, 
 and partly in the district of Strathbogie, county of 
 Aberdeen, 4 miles (S.) from Huntly; containing 1037 
 inhabitants. This parish is divided nearly in the centre, 
 by the river Bogie, into two portions, one of which, 
 called the Barony, is within the county of Banff, and is 
 said to have been separated from Aberdeenshire by its 
 proprietor Barclay, one of the feudal barons of the an- 
 cient Earls of Huntly, who, being at that time sheriff 
 of Banff, was desirous of having his property under his 
 own immediate jurisdiction. The other portion of the 
 parish, called the Braes, is in the county, and within the 
 control of the sheriff, of Aberdeen. Few events of his- 
 torical importance have occurred in connexion with this 
 place, which is chiefly distinguished for a visit bj' Mary, 
 Queen of Scots, who, on her return from an excursion 
 to Inverness and Ross-shire, spent a night at Gartly 
 Castle, the baronial residence of the Gordon family, of 
 which some small portion is still remaining, though in 
 ruins. The parish is irregular in form, is about twelve 
 miles in length and four miles and a half in breadth, and 
 comprises about 17,000 acres, of which 5600 are arable, 
 11,000 pasture, moorland, and moss, and the remainder, 
 with the exception of a few acres of natural wood and 
 plantations, roads and waste. Its surface is diversified 
 with hills and valleys, and with numerous glens of highly 
 picturesque appearance : from the hills many rivulets 
 descend into the Bogie, which rises in Auchindoir, and 
 after winding for fourteen miles through this parish and 
 that of Rhynie, joins the Doveron near Huntly. The 
 eastern and western parts of the parish are especially 
 hilly, and have extensive moors abounding in grouse and 
 other game ; the hills are covered with moss, which 
 supplies both Gartly and the town of Huntly with fuel, 
 and in the west the mosses are particularly deep. Tyl- 
 liminnet glen is richly embellished with a fine wood of 
 birch and several young and thriving plantations, and 
 is seen among the surrounding hills with the most ro- 
 mantic effect. The banks of the river, also, are planted 
 with alder ; but there is httle other wood in the parish. 
 The moors are well adapted to the growth of timber, and 
 if planted it would tend much to the improvement of the 
 parish. A considerable portion, also, of the moors might 
 at a moderate outlay be brought into a profitable state 
 of cultivation. 
 
 The soil, especially in the valleys and lower grounds, 
 is extremely fertile, producing abundant crops ; and the 
 system of agriculture is advanced : the five-shift course 
 of husbandry generally prevails, being found best adapted 
 to the soil and climate. Since the introduction of turnip 
 cultivation, the breed of cattle has been greatly im- 
 proved ; the principal kind is the old Aberdeenshire 
 crossed by the Argyllshire, which is found to answer 
 well. A few sheep, not more than about 1700, which 
 are chiefly the black-faced, are pastured on the hills. 
 
 *
 
 G A R T 
 
 GARY 
 
 The substratum is mostly gravel. Limestone is found, 
 but in so small a quantity, and at such a depth, as to 
 render the working of it unprofitable to the farmer, who 
 can obtain it in the neighbouring parish of Cairnie at 
 less expense. On several of the hills are quarries of 
 slate of good quality, the working of which affords re- 
 munerative employment to many labourers. Much im- 
 provement has been made in draining, and considerable 
 portions of waste land have been reclaimed, including 
 some on the farm of Bucharn improved by George Gor- 
 don, Esq., who in 1828 received the gold medal from 
 the Highland Society : this gentleman and a few others 
 have also subdivided and inclosed their fields with stone 
 dykes. The farm-buildings are substantial and com- 
 modious ; and there are tolerable facilities of intercourse 
 with the neighbouring market-towns by the turnpike- 
 road which passes through the parish for nearly four 
 miles. The annual value of real property in Gartly is 
 £4437. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Strathbogie, synod of Moray. The mi- 
 nister's stipend is about £190, with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £16 per annum; patron, the Duke of 
 Richmond. Gartly church was erected in 1621 ; but 
 with the exception of the steeple, little of the original 
 edifice is remaining : it has undergone many alterations 
 within the last twenty or thirty years, and now affords 
 accommodation to nearly 600 persons. The members 
 of the Free Church have a place of worship. The paro- 
 chial school affords a useful education ; the salary of the 
 master is £32. 10., with £20 fees, and a house and gar- 
 den. There is a parochial library containing more than 
 200 volumes. Some slight remains exist of Gartly 
 Castle ; and till lately there were several tumuli on the 
 farm of Mill Hill, near the church, where, according to 
 tradition, a skirmish took place in 1411. They have 
 almost all been levelled : in one of them were found two 
 ancient dirks, and in another some brass buckles, sup- 
 posed to have been used to fasten the sword-belts of the 
 warriors. On the farm of Faich hill has been discovered 
 an urn containing bones ; and on the lands of Cockston 
 was found an urn of clay, in which were numerous round 
 pieces of stamped leather, thought to have been anciently 
 current for money. A stone coffin was found on the 
 lands of Coldran by Captain Gordon, but nothing is 
 known of its history. In a vault in the church are pre- 
 served the ashes of Viscount Aboyne, and of John Gor- 
 don, laird of Rothiemay, with some of their followers, 
 who were burned in the old tower of Frendraught, in 
 the parish of Forgue, in 1630. At Muirellis, James I. 
 is reported by tradition to have passed an evening with 
 the tenant of that farm, which he visited incognito, and 
 he is said to have been so much pleased with the hospi- 
 tality of his host, that he obtained from the Earl of 
 Huntly a grant that the tenant and his descendants 
 should possess the land rent-free. It is also traditionally 
 stated that an infant son of the Baron of Gartly was 
 drowned by an inundation of the Bogie, in returning 
 from the chapel of Brawlinknows, after receiving the rite 
 of baptism. 
 
 GARTMORE, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in 
 the parish of Port of Monteith, county of Perth, 1,5 
 miles (W. by S.) from Doune ; containing 347 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom 253 are in the village. This district is 
 about two miles and a half in length, and one mile and 
 483 
 
 a half in breadth, and comprises about 1360 acres, of 
 which 760 are in tillage and pasture, 200 under planta- 
 tion, and 400 uncultivated. Its surface partakes of the 
 general mountainous character of the Highland country 
 of which it forms a part, and the prevailing scenery is 
 beautifully diversified : the substratum is red sandstone. 
 The river Forth flows on the north and north-east, the 
 Kelty on the south, and the road from Dumbarton to 
 Stirling passes within four miles. A market or fair 
 takes place on the 1 6th of June, at which cattle of all 
 descriptions are exposed for sale, and servants for the 
 ensuing year are engaged. Gartmore House, a sub- 
 stantial and very commodious mansion, is of considerable 
 antiquity, and stands in grounds tastefully embellished, 
 and commanding some interesting views. The village 
 is pleasantly situated, and has a rural aspect ; the in- 
 habitants are chiefly employed in agriculture, and partly 
 in the handicraft trades requisite for the wants of the 
 district. Ecclesiastically Gartmore is in the presbytery 
 of Dunblane, synod of Perth and Stirling, and the pa- 
 tronage is vested in the communicants : the church, 
 erected in 1790, at an expense of £400, raised by sub- 
 scription, is a neat plain edifice, containing 415 sittings. 
 The members of the Free Church have a place of wor- 
 ship ; and there are two schools, one of which, for sew- 
 ing and knitting, is taught by a female. 
 
 GARTSHERRIE, for a time a quoad sacra parish, 
 in the parish of Old Monkland, county of Lanark ; 
 containing, with the villages of Coatbridge, Coatdyke, 
 Gartcloss, East Merrystone, and Summerlee, 5906 in- 
 habitants, of whom 1499 are in the village of Gartsherrie, 
 2 miles (W.) from Airdrie. This is a considerable min- 
 ing district, in the works connected with which nearly 
 the whole population are employed : the iron-works are 
 of great magnitude, including a considerable number of 
 blast-furnaces for smelting the ore. The coal-mine here 
 is worked on a very extensive scale ; there are five strata 
 of coal, between each of which is a stratum of sandstone 
 and shale : the seams of coal vary in thickness from one 
 foot four inches to four feet. Great facility of inter- 
 course is afforded by the Glasgow, Garnkirk, and Coat- 
 bridge railway, the Monkland and Kirkintilloch railway, 
 the Caledonian line, the Ballochney line, and the Wishaw 
 and Coltness. Ecclesiastically, Gartsherrie is in the 
 presbytery of Hamilton, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and 
 the patronage is vested in the subscribers to the church : 
 the stipend of the minister is £150, secured by bond. 
 The church, erected at a cost of £3300, is an elegant 
 structure, with a tower rising to the height of 136 feet, 
 and contains 1500 sittings. Near it is the Academy, 
 erected in 1844, at a cost of £2300 ; and there is a large 
 Sabbath school, taught by the elders. 
 
 GARTWHINEAN, EASTER and WESTER, ham- 
 lets, in the parish of Fossoway and Tulliebole, county 
 of Perth, 2 miles (E.) from Dollar; one containing 96, 
 and the other 49 inhabitants. These places lie on the 
 south side of the river Devon, which here separates the 
 parish from that of Mnckart. A rocky pinnacle in the 
 neighbourhood, called Gibson's Crag, was the rendezvous 
 of the chiefs of the Murrays. 
 
 GARVALD and BARA, a parish, in the county of 
 Haddington, 5 miles (S. E. by E.) from Haddington ; 
 containing 862 inhabitants, of whom 257 are in the 
 village. The district of (iarvald derives its name, signify- 
 ing in the Gaelic language "the rough water", from the 
 
 3 Q2
 
 GARY 
 
 situation of its village on a rapid and impetuous stream, 
 forcing its way through a channel of rugged fragments 
 of rock, and which, after floods or continued rains, in 
 the violence of its course throws out stones of great 
 weio-ht upon the low grounds. Garvald and Bara were 
 united in 1/02, and service was alternately performed in 
 the church of each parish till the year 1744, when that 
 of Bara fell into a state of dilapidation. The parish is 
 nearly nine miles in length from east to west, and almost 
 five in breadth from north to south ; and is bounded on 
 the north and east by the parish of Whittingham, on 
 the south by that of Lauder in Berwickshire, and on the 
 west by the parishes of Giiford, Haddington, and Mor- 
 ham. Its surface is varied, rising in elevation towards 
 the Lammermoor hills, displaying in some parts an in- 
 termixture of heath and grass, and in others being richly 
 cultivated and covered with lu.vuriant verdure. In seve- 
 ral places the soil is a deep loam, resting upon clay, and 
 exceedingly fertile ; and in others, of a light gravelly 
 nature, well adapted for the growth of turnips and pota- 
 toes, both of which are raised to a very considerable ex- 
 tent. The chief crops are oats and barley, potatoes, 
 turnips, beans, and peas, with some wheat. The system 
 of agriculture is highly improved ; the farms are 
 thoroughly drained and well inclosed, and much ground 
 that was formerly barren heath has, by a liberal use of 
 lime, been brought into an excellent state of cultivation. 
 On the higher lands is fine pasturage for sheep, of which 
 more than 7000 are in general kept, chiefly of the black- 
 faced and Cheviot breeds, with an occasional cross of the 
 Leicestershire, which appears to answer well ; about 300 
 black-cattle, also, are annually fed and fattened for the 
 butcher. The farm-houses and offices are substantial, 
 and all the recent improvements in agricultural imple- 
 ments have been generally adopted. The annual value 
 of real property in Garvald and Bara is £7571- 
 
 Nunraw.-d seat in the parish, was anciently a nunnery, 
 a cell belonging to the priory of Haddington ; a great 
 portion of the building has been modernised, but it still 
 displays many indications of antiquity. Hopes is an 
 elegant mansion built by the present owner ; it is 
 pleasantly situated in a sequestered glen, near the Lam- 
 mermoor hills, and in a well-disposed demesne, enriched 
 with thriving plantations formed by the proprietor, who 
 has also added greatly to the beauty and interest of the 
 parish by various other plantations on the estate. The 
 village is neatly built, and has facility of communication 
 with neighbouring places by good roads kept in repair 
 by statute labour, and by the turnpike-road from Dunse 
 to Haddington, which passes for six miles through the 
 parish. Most of its inhabitants are employed in weav- 
 ing, and in the various trades requisite for the supply of 
 a country district ; and several are engaged in some 
 freestone-quarries situated near the village. Ecclesi- 
 astically the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery 
 of Haddington, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The 
 stipend of the incumbent is £189 ; the manse is a com- 
 fortable residence, erected in 18'20, and the glebe com- 
 prises thirteen acres and a half of land, valued at £2.5 
 per annum. The church is an ancient structure, repaired 
 and enlarged in 1829 ; it is adapted to a congregation of 
 360 persons, but is inconveniently situated at one ex- 
 tremity of the parish. There is a place of worship for 
 members of the Free Church. The parochial school 
 affords a useful education to about sixty children; the 
 484 
 
 GARY 
 
 master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, 
 and the fees average about £16 per annum. Two 
 friendly societies are kept up. Near the Lammermoor 
 hills are the ruins of Whitecastle, a strong ancient for- 
 tress, erected for the defence of a pass from the Merse 
 and from the English frontier. On the lands of Garvald 
 farm are the remains of a circular encampment, about 
 1500 feet in circumference : there was a similar camp 
 on the lands of Carfrae, the stones of which were used 
 to form an inclosure ; and in removing them for that 
 purpose, the brass handle of a sword was discovered. 
 At Newlands are tumuli called respectively the Black 
 and the Green Castle ; the spot was planted by the 
 Marquess of Tweeddale, within the last few years, with 
 Scotch firs. There are two other encampments, one on 
 Park farm, and the other on the estate of Hopes. 
 
 GARVELLOCH, or Holy Islands, a cluster of 
 small islands, in the parish of Jura and Colonsay, dis- 
 trict of Islay, county of Argyll. These islands, which 
 are situated in the Atlantic, to the west of Balnahuaigh, 
 obtained their second name from having been the resi- 
 dence of the monks of lona previously to the foundation 
 of that monastery ; and there are still some remains of 
 a chapel and cemetery, and of the ancient conventual 
 buildings. The isles are the property of Colin Campbell, 
 Esq., of Jura, to whom they pay a rental of £150 per 
 annum, derived chiefly from their excellent pasture for 
 sheep and black-cattle. Here is also a marble-quarry, 
 which appears to have been wrought at a very early 
 period, and some of the produce of which is to be seen 
 in the castle of Inverary. 
 
 GARVOCK, a parish, in the county of Kincardine, 
 2 miles (E. S. E.) from Laurencekirk ; containing 446 
 inhabitants. This place, the name of which, in the 
 Gaelic language, is descriptive of the general appearance 
 of its surface, formed part of the ample possessions of 
 the Keiths, earls-marischal of Scotland, who occasionally 
 resorted to it for the diversion of hunting ; but since 
 17 15, when the estate was forfeited, the lands have been 
 divided among several proprietors, of whom the Earl of 
 Kintore is the principal. Though few traces of its 
 original character are now remaining, it appears to have 
 been one extensive forest ; and within its limits, in the 
 reign of James I., was perpetrated the inhuman murder 
 of Melville of Glenbervie, sheriff of Mearns, whom Bar- 
 clay, laird of Mathers, and others, had treacherously in- 
 vited to join them on a hunting party. The parish is 
 rather more than seven miles in length, and nearly four 
 miles in extreme breadth, comprising an area of 8500 
 acres, whereof 2900 are arable, 100 woodlaud and plan- 
 tations, and the remainder, of which about one-half 
 might be reclaimed, moorland pasture and waste. In 
 the central portion the surface is a hollow plain, sur- 
 rounded by ascending grounds except on the east. In 
 other parts it is gently undulated, rising, towards the 
 south-west, into the hills of Garvock, which have an 
 elevation of 750 feet above the level of the sea, and 
 command from their summit an unbounded and richly- 
 diversified prospect. There are numerous springs of 
 excellent water in various parts, and at the north-west 
 base of Garvock hill is a spring strongly impregnated 
 with chalybeate properties ; but the only river connected 
 with the parish is the water of Bervie, which forms a 
 portion of its north-east boundary, and falls into the sea 
 at Bervie. 
 
 4
 
 CASK 
 
 CASK 
 
 The soil is naturally wet, resting on a subsoil of clay; 
 on the higher grounds, light and gravelly ; and in the 
 lowlands, chiefly alluvial deposit. The crops are oats, 
 barley, and bear, with potatoes and turnips : wheat has 
 been raised, and also peas, though not with any degree 
 of success ; beans, however, have been introduced with 
 every prospect of a fair return. Of late years, the sys- 
 tem of husbandry has been greatly advanced, and con- 
 siderable tracts of waste have been reclaimed and brought 
 into profitable cultivation by draining and the use of 
 lime ; but the farm-buildings, with few exceptions, are 
 still of very inferior order, and the lands are only par- 
 tially inclosed. Great attention is paid to the manage- 
 ment of the dairy-farms, and the butter made here ob- 
 tains a decided preference in the market. The cattle 
 are generally the Angus, with a mixture of the Aberdeen- 
 shire breed ; much care is bestowed on their improve- 
 ment, and large numbers are sent to London : few sheep 
 are bred. The annual value of real property in the pa- 
 rish is £328.5. There are some small remains of ancient 
 wood ; and the plantations, which are chiefly of recent 
 growth, consist of larch, spruce, and Scotch firs, inter- 
 spersed with ash, beech, and plane, all which, with the 
 exception of the larch and Scotch fir, are in a thriving 
 condition. The rocks are mostly sandstone, conglome- 
 rate, and trap. A coarse kind of limestone occurs in 
 the hill of Garvock, but from the difficulty of access, it is 
 not wrought. Red sandstone, of good quality for build- 
 ing, is occasionally quarried. 
 
 There is no village, or even hamlet of any importance, 
 in the parish. A fair was formerly held annually on the 
 hill of Garvock, on the third Tuesday in July (O. S.), and 
 continued for three following days, for the sale of sheep, 
 cattle, merchandise, and for hiring servants ; it was 
 called St. James' fair, but has been removed by the pro- 
 prietor of the custom. Facility of communication is 
 maintained by good roads. Ecclesiastically the parish 
 is within the bounds of the presbytery of Fordoun, 
 synod of Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend is 
 £177. 11. 9-, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 
 per annum ; patron, the Crown. Garvock church is a 
 neat structure erected in 177S, and contains 300 sittings. 
 The parochial school is attended by about sixty children ; 
 the master has a salary of £31, with a house, and an 
 allowance of £2. 2. for garden, and the fees average £15. 
 The present minister, the Rev. John Charles, has as- 
 signed the sum of £100, the interest to be paid to the 
 master for the gratuitous instruction of poor children : 
 it is invested in Aberdeen feu-duties, and pays for the 
 education of ten or eleven scholars annually. A paro- 
 chial library, now containing 490 volumes, was established 
 in 183.5 ; and a juvenile library of 120 volumes was in- 
 stituted in 1843. There are numerous cairns, and many 
 Druidical remains, in the parish ; and on the farm of 
 Nether TuUoch, under three hillocks, have been found 
 three stone coffins, of which two contained only some 
 black earth, and the third an urn and a skeleton. 
 
 GASK, NETHER, or Findogask, a parish, in the 
 county of Perth, 3 miles (N. w. by N.) from Dunning; 
 containing, with the village of Clathy, 436 inhabitants. 
 Its name is supposed by some to be derived from a word 
 in the Gaelic language, signifying " a slope "; but the 
 etymology is extremely doubtful. The length of the 
 parish is about two miles, and the breadth nearly the 
 same ; it contains about 2.560 acres. The ground slopes 
 485 
 
 on each side from the Roman causeway which runs 
 through the middle of the parish, on the highest ground : 
 the southern side is a pleasant tract, laid out in culti- 
 vated fields ; and on the slope towards the north are 
 plantations of fir, oak, and beech, interspersed with 
 corn-fields and pastures. Nether Gask is bounded on 
 the north by Madderty and Methven parishes, on the 
 south by Dunning, on the east by Tibbermore and For- 
 teviot, and on the west by Trinity-Gask. The river Earn 
 runs along the southern boundary, and though not 
 navigable, is a considerable stream, winding in this part 
 for about three miles ; it contains salmon, white and 
 yellow trout, perch, flounders, pike, and eels. In this 
 parish the soil is partly clayey and partly loamy : in the 
 northern quarter is an extensive moss, a portion of 
 which has been reclaimed and cultivated, and the rest 
 supplies the people with peat for fuel. Grain of all 
 kinds is produced, as well as green crops, and the whole 
 is of good quality : more than 1200 acres are occupied 
 by wood, consisting mainly of larch, Scotch fir, and oak ; 
 and the woods abound with every description of game. 
 The modern system of agriculture has been followed for 
 the last thirty or forty years, and all the land not in 
 wood is cultivated. The cattle are the Teeswater and 
 the Ayrshire ; the sheep are the Leicesters, and the com- 
 mon breed of horses is usually reared. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £3500. The rocks 
 consist of sandstone and grey slate, both of which are 
 quarried ; and marl is found in different places. The 
 mansion of Gask is the residence of the chief proprietor, 
 whose ancestors for many generations have resided on 
 the property ; it is a commodious and substantial build- 
 ing, erected in the beginning of the present century, and 
 ornamented with many large and beautiful trees. The 
 turnpike and parish roads have been improved of late 
 years : the road from Perth to Stirling intersects the 
 parish. 
 
 Ecclesiastically this place is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Auchterarder, synod of Perth and Stirling; 
 patron, the Crown. The stipend of the minister is £1 55, 
 with a manse, built in 1800, and a glebe of twenty acres, 
 valued at £15 per annum. Nether Gask church was 
 erected also in 1800, and is a plain edifice in good re- 
 pair, accommodating nearly 400 persons with sittings. 
 There is a parochial school, in which Latin is taught, 
 with all the ordinary branches of education ; the master 
 has the maximum salary, a house and garden, and about 
 £12 fees. A parochial library was founded in 1824, 
 and is supported by subscription. The Roman causeway 
 which runs through the parish is twenty feet broad, and 
 has been macadamized within these few years ; it leads 
 westward to a camp still visible in the parish of Muthill, 
 and eastward to another camp in the parish of Scone. 
 By its side are stations, capable of containing from 
 twelve to twenty men, and inclosed by ditches, which 
 are very distinct. Within the policy of Gask, vestiges 
 of two other camps may be traced, one on the south, 
 and the other on the north, of the causeway ; and the 
 praitorium of the latter is yet discernible, though the 
 ground has been planted with fir. One of these camps 
 seems to have been capable of containing 500 men, and 
 the other, half that number. 
 
 GASK, TRINITY, a parish, in the county of Perth, 
 2 miles (N.) from Auchterarder, and 4 (S. E.) from Crieff; 
 containing 620 inhabitants. This parish is said to de-
 
 CASK 
 
 GATE 
 
 rive its name Gask, of Gaelic origin, from the peculiar 
 nature of its surface, consisting almost entirely of braes 
 and undulated ground : the distinctive prefix. Trinity, 
 arose from the union of three districts, which constitute 
 the present parish. Trinity-Gask is chiefly situated on 
 the north bank of the river Earn, in the picturesque 
 strath to which that river gives name ; and is about five 
 miles in length, and three in breadth. Its surface is 
 pleasingly varied, containing but few tracts of level 
 land ; and the scenery is enlivened by the windings of 
 the Earn, which flows from west to east, displaying much 
 beauty in the natural wood and thriving plantations with 
 which its banks are crowned. The soil, greatly differing 
 in various parts, has in some been much improved by 
 draining, and by the construction of embankments to 
 protect the lower lands from the occasional overflowings 
 of the Earn ; and through the improvement that has 
 taken place in the system of agriculture, a considerable 
 portion of barren land has been reclaimed and brought 
 into profitable cultivation. Of the whole number of 
 acres in the parish, nearly 4300 are arable, and 1000 in 
 woods and plantations ; the remainder is chiefly moor- 
 land and waste, and it is supposed that about '2000 acres 
 may be rendered arable, when the measures at present 
 in contemplation for that purpose shall be carried out. 
 The river abounds with various kinds of fish, the princi- 
 pal of which are salmon, trout, perch, and pike ; but the 
 quantity of salmon has greatly diminished since the use 
 of stake-nets was introduced in the Tay. The crops 
 raised in the parish are, grain of all kinds, potatoes, and 
 turnips. Bone-dust and lime are used, but on account 
 of the expense of bringing those articles from a great 
 distance, the quantity is not adequate to the wants of 
 the soil. Great attention is paid to the rearing of cattle ; 
 the short-horned breed was introduced by Lord Strath- 
 allan, and is found to answer well : the sheep, which are 
 very limited in numbers, are chiefly of the Leicestershire 
 breed. The farm-buildings are substantial, and on all 
 the large farms are threshing-mills, several of which are 
 driven by water. There are also corn-mills in various 
 parts. The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £4700. 
 
 The oldest of the woods are of Scotch fir ; and the 
 plantations of more modern date are principally spruce, 
 larch, oak, and beech, all of which, under judicious 
 management, are in a thriving state. In this parish the 
 substrata are chiefly sandstone and whinstone, of which 
 there are several varieties, and occasionally a gray stone, 
 of great compactness, containing a portion of copper, but 
 not sufficient in quantity to repay the cost of working it. 
 Both the sandstone and whinstone are quarried for building 
 purposes, and for the roads ; but the stone is of inferior 
 quality. Millearne, a seat in the parish, is a spacious 
 mansion in the later English style, beautifully situated 
 in grounds laid out with great taste, and forming a 
 conspicuous feature in the landscape. Colquhalzie is a 
 handsome mansion finely seated on the south bank of 
 the Earn, and commanding some highly interesting 
 views. Facility of intercourse with the neighbouring 
 towns is afforded by good roads ; a ferry-boat plies 
 across the river, and at Kinkell is a bridge of four arches, 
 built by subscription in 1793, and kept in excellent 
 repair. An agricultural society has been established in 
 the parish, for the promotion of husbandry, by the dis- 
 tribution of prizes to the successful candidates in plough- 
 486 
 
 ing matches. Ecclesiastically the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Auchterarder, synod of Perth 
 and Stirling ; patron, the Earl of KinnouU. The stipend 
 of the incumbent varies from £190 to £"270; the manse 
 is a commodious residence, and the glebe comprises four- 
 teen acres and a half of profitable land, with about ten 
 acres of wood. Trinity-Gask church is adapted for a 
 congregation of about 350 persons, but is inconveniently 
 situated. There is a place of worship for the United 
 Presbyterian Church. The parochial school affords a 
 useful education ; the master has the maximum salary, 
 and the fees average about £12 per annum. The poor 
 receive the interest of a bequest of £80. Some remains 
 exist of an ancient castle called Gascon Hall, of which, 
 however, there are no authentic records ; and a consi- 
 derable portion of the Roman road leading to the camp 
 at Ardoch is within the parish. A kistvaen, containing 
 human bones and ashes, was found on the lands belong- 
 ing to the Earl of Kinnoull ; it consisted of four upright 
 stones, with one lying horizontally on the top. 
 
 GASSTOWN, a village, forming part of the former 
 quoad sacra parish of St. Mary, in the burgh and 
 county of Dumfries, and containing 162 inhabitants. 
 
 GATEHOUSE OF FLEET, a burgh of barony, 
 manufacturing town, and port, partly in the parish of 
 Anwoth, but chiefly in that of Girthon, stewartry of 
 Kirkcudbright, 7 miles (W.) from Kirkcudbright; 
 containing 1832 inhabitants, of whom 419 are in the 
 parish of Anwoth. This place, which was built on the 
 site of the ancient town of Fleet, about the middle of the 
 last century, takes its name from an old tenement, the 
 only house at that time in existence, which was situated 
 at the gate of the avenue leading to Cally. The mansion 
 of Cally was the family seat of the founder, James Mur- 
 ray, Esq., of Broughton, and is now the residence of his 
 descendant, who is lord of the manor and superior of 
 the burgh. Gatehouse is pleasantly seated on the river 
 Fleet, near its influx into Fleet bay, and consists princi- 
 pally of three spacious and well-formed streets, parallel 
 with each other, and of which the eastern leads to a 
 handsome stone bridge of two arches, connecting it with 
 that portion of the burgh lying on the opposite bank of 
 the river. The houses are well built and of good appear- 
 ance ; the inhabitants are amply supplied with water; 
 and the immediate vicinity of the town abounds with 
 pleasingly-diversified and interesting scenery. The chief 
 manufacture is that of cotton, introduced here by James 
 Murray, Esq., who for that purpose induced Messrs. 
 Birtwhistle and Sons, from Yorkshire, to erect two large 
 mills, which for some years have been conducted by 
 their lessees, John Mc Kie and Company, by whom the 
 business is carried on with great success. One of these 
 mills was destroyed by an accidental fire in 1840, but 
 has been rebuilt, and fitted up with machinery of the 
 most improved kind. Both are in full operation, afford- 
 ing employment to 200 persons. The works are driven 
 by two water-wheels of fifty-five horse power, supplied 
 by a tunnel cut from Loch Whinnyan at an expense of 
 £1400; and the average quantity of cloth annually 
 made is 60,000 pieces, twenty-four yards each in length. 
 A brewery has been established upon a moderate scale. 
 There is a tannery on the west bank of the river ; green 
 hides are dressed in the town, to the amount of £400 
 annually ; and about 60,000 bricks are made in some 
 works a little to the north.
 
 G ATT 
 
 G I F F 
 
 The trade of the port consists chiefly in the exporta- 
 tion of cotton goods, leather, and agricultural produce ; 
 and in the importation of cotton, wool, timher, lime, 
 coal, wine, and groceries. Several vessels belong to the 
 port, averaging eighty tons' burthen : in 1840 the number 
 of vessels that entered mwards was forty-two, of 931 
 tons' aggregate burthen ; and in the same year sixteen 
 cleared outwards, of 395 tons. The harbour, called 
 Boat-green, about 300 yards below the bridge, is acces- 
 sible for vessels of 160 tons, and has been greatly im- 
 proved, at a cost of nearly £3000, by the Murray family, 
 who in 1824 constructed a canal 1400 yards in length, 
 into which they diverted the waters of the Fleet, which 
 previously inundated the lands at every tide. By this 
 work, the navigation from Fleet bay to the town has 
 been much facilitated, and a considerable tract of marshy 
 ground reclaimed. From two rocks on opposite sides 
 of the canal, a swivel bridge has been thrown across, 
 which has removed the road from the demesne of Cally, 
 and affords an easier approach to the town. A market 
 is held on Saturday, which is amply supplied with pro- 
 visions of all kinds : there are large markets for cattle, 
 for eight successive weeks, beginning on the first Friday 
 in November ; and a fair is held on the 27th June, or 
 Monday after. Gatehouse was erected into a burgh of 
 barony, by royal charter, in 1795, and is governed by a 
 provost, two bailies, and four councillors, annually elected 
 by the resident proprietors of £2 annually. The magis- 
 trates exercise civil and criminal jurisdiction within the 
 burgh, but only to a small extent ; and there is a prison 
 for the temporary confinement of petty offenders, but it 
 is seldom used. The post-office has a daily delivery ; 
 and a branch of the Western bank of Scotland has been 
 established. Facility of communication is afforded by 
 good parish roads, kept in repair by statute labour ; and 
 the turnpike-road from Dumfries to Portpatrick passes 
 through the town. 
 
 GATESIDE, a village, in the parish of Beith, dis- 
 trict of CuNNiNGHAME, County of Ayr, i^ mile (N. E. 
 by E.) from Beith ; containing 270 inhabitants. It lies 
 in the northern part of the parish, on the borders of 
 Renfrewshire, and a little east of the road leading from 
 Beith to Paisley. 
 
 GATESIDE, a hamlet, in the parish of Kirkgun- 
 ZEON, stewartry of Kirkcudbright; containing 23 in- 
 habitants. 
 
 GATESIDE, a village, in the parish of Neilston, 
 Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, f of a mile 
 (N. N. E.) from Neilston ; containing 673 inhabitants. 
 This village has arisen from the establishment of the 
 cotton manufacture in this part of the parish, and the 
 consequent erection of a spacious mill rfor spinning 
 and weaving cotton, in 1786. It is neatly built, and 
 is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in the cotton- 
 works, and in the printing and bleaching establishments 
 connected with them. 
 
 GATTONSIDE, a village, in the parish and district 
 of Melrose, county of Roxburgh, 1 mile (N. by W.) 
 from Melrose ; containing 252 inhabitants. "The situa- 
 tion of this village, in the finest part of the vale of Mel- 
 rose, is romantically beautiful. It is seated on the 
 southern slope of a hill on the north bank of the Tweed, 
 opposite to Melrose, with which town it has been lately 
 connected by a wire-bridge. The houses, which are 
 generally thatched, are situated amidst orchards and 
 487 
 
 gardens ; and a greater quantity of fruit is grown here 
 than in any other portion of the vale. The inhabitants 
 are partly employed in agriculture, and partly in the 
 manufactures of Galashiels. 
 
 GAVINTON, a village, in the parish of Langton, 
 county of Berwick, 1:|: mile (S. W. by S.) from Dunse; 
 containing 206 inhabitants. This village takes its name 
 from David Gavin, Esq., a former proprietor of the 
 parish, who, finding the ancient village of Langton an 
 impediment to the extensive improvements he was mak- 
 ing on his estate, induced the inhabitants, by a very ad- 
 vantageous grant of lands, to abandon their old resi- 
 dence, and build themselves houses on the site of the 
 present village. It is situated on the south side of a 
 stream, a tributary to the Blackadder water, and also 
 south of the high road from Dunse to Lauder. The pa- 
 rochial school is in the village of Gavinton. 
 
 GEILSTONE-BRIDGE, a village, in the parish of 
 Cardross, county of Dumbarton, i a mile (N. N. W.) 
 from Cardross ; containing 133 inhabitants. It is situ- 
 ated on the east side of the coast road from Dumbarton 
 to Helensburgh, and on a stream which shortly falls 
 into the Clyde. In the village is a library of more than 
 400 volumes. 
 
 GELSTON, a village, in the parish of Kelton, stew- 
 artry of Kirkcudbright, 3^ miles (S. by E.) from 
 Castle-Douglas ; containing 146 inhabitants. It lies in 
 the eastern part of the parish of Kelton, in which it is 
 now comprehended ; but it was anciently a parish of 
 itself, and here are the ruins of its church, which fell 
 iuto decay previously to 1689, when the union of the 
 two parishes and that of Kirkcormack took place. A 
 small burn, flowing in a northern direction, passes near 
 the village, and falls into the Carlinwark loch ; while two 
 others take a south-eastern course, one on each side of 
 Gelston hill. Gelston Castle was built by the late Sir 
 William Douglas, Bart., and is remarkable for the ele- 
 gance of its architecture, and the romantic beauty of its 
 situation. In the village is one of three parochial schools. 
 Various antiquities have been discovered in the neigh- 
 bourhood : on opening a sepulchral tumulus, near Gel- 
 ston, a stone coffin was found, seven feet long and three 
 wide, which contained human bones of unusual length 
 and thickness. 
 
 GEORGETOWN, a village, in the Old Church pa- 
 rish of Dumfries, county of Dumfries ; containing 154 
 inhabitants. 
 
 GIBBIESTOWN, a hamlet, in the parish of Meth- 
 ven, county of Perth ; containing 26 inhabitants. 
 
 GIFFORD, a village, in the parish of Yester, county 
 of Haddington, 4 miles (S.) from Haddington ; con- 
 taining 525 inhabitants. "This village, which is beauti- 
 fully situated on the east bank of the Gifford water, and 
 in the picturesque vale of Yester, is built chiefly on 
 lands leased from the Marquess of Tweeddale, and held 
 by tenure of certain feudal services. In consequence of 
 agreeing to render these services, the inhabitants were 
 exempted by the marquess from various taxes and im- 
 posts, and were endowed with a grant of common land, 
 comprising sixty acres, valued at £100 per annum, and 
 the produce of part of which, now under cultivation, is 
 apphed to the improvement of the place. The marquess, 
 as lord of the manor, formerly appointed a baron-bailie, 
 and held a Birla or Boorlaw court, to which was attached 
 an officer called a constable. This court, which was
 
 GI G H 
 
 GI G H 
 
 discontinued only within the last fifty or sixty years, 
 exercised jurisdiction in petty misdemeanors, and had a 
 prison and stocks for the confinement and punishment 
 of offenders. The constable continued to retain his 
 office until the appointment of county or district con- 
 stables. The village consists principally of two streets 
 of regularly-built houses, one of which extends in a line 
 with the avenue leading to Ycster House, the property 
 of the marquess, and terminates with the parochial 
 school-house, a handsome building surmounted with a 
 small cupola and town clock : at the extremity of the 
 other street is the parish church. The inhabitants are 
 employed chiefly in the various trades requisite for the 
 supply of the vicinity, and partly in the cultivation of 
 the adjacent lands. The weaving of linen was formerly 
 carried on to some extent, affording occupation to more 
 than twenty persons at their own houses ; but since the 
 introduction of improved machinery, it has greatly di- 
 minished, and not above three or four persons are little 
 more than half engaged in that pursuit. A sub-post- 
 office has been established, which has a daily delivery ; 
 and the East Lothian Agricultural Society hold an an- 
 nual meeting here, to award premiums for improvements 
 in husbandry, and for the best pens of sheep. Fairs for 
 the sale of sheep, cattle, and horses, are held on the last 
 Tuesday in March, the third in June, and the first in 
 October, which are numerously attended, and at which 
 seldom less than 4000 sheep, .500 head of cattle, and an 
 equal number of horses, are brought for sale. All the 
 poor used to receive soup three times in the week, from 
 the kitchen of the Marquess of Tweeddale, when the 
 family were residing at Yester ; and they still derive an 
 ample supply of fuel from his lordship's grounds. 
 
 GIFFORDTON, a hamlet, in the parish of Col- 
 LEssiE, district of Cupar, county of Fife; containing 
 71 inhabitants. It is a modern hamlet, the houses in 
 which are generally well arranged and of neat appear- 
 ance. 
 
 GIGHA and CARA, a parish, in the district of Can- 
 tyre, county of Argyll, 21^ miles (S. by W.) from 
 Tarbert ; containing 550 inhabitants. Some persons 
 derive the name of the former of these two districts 
 from the compound Gaelic term Eilean-Dhia, signifying 
 " God's island" ; others are of opinion that it may be 
 traced to the word geodha, " a creek", applied on account 
 of the numerous inlets and bays here. The word Cara 
 is supposed to signify " a monastery". The parish con- 
 sists of two islands, situated in the Atlantic Ocean, be- 
 tween the southern portion of the island of Islay and 
 the peninsula of Cantyre, and separated from the latter 
 by a channel three miles and a half across, in which the 
 current is often extremely strong, especially at new and 
 full moons. The)' are both but little elevated above the 
 sea : the highest point in Gigha, called Creag-bhan, or 
 " the white rock", rises only to an elevation of 400 feet ; 
 and Cara, situated a mile and a half south of the former 
 island, has in this respect the same general appearance. 
 Gigha measures in length from north to south almost 
 seven miles, and is two miles and a half in extreme 
 breadth ; Cara is nearly a mile in length, and half a mile 
 in breadth, and the two isles comprise together about 
 4000 acres, of which half are arable, ten acres under plan- 
 tation, and the remainder pasture and waste. 
 
 The coast of Gigha is computed at twenty-five miles 
 in extent, being very circuitous in consequence of the 
 488 
 
 great number of its creeks. On the west side it is bold 
 and rocky, and contains near the middle a cave called 
 the Great Cave, and another named the Pigeons' Cave 
 from the many wild-pigeons frequenting it. Though 
 rugged, however, along the larger part of the western 
 line, there are at the two extremities, and on the eastern 
 side, several bays well adapted for bathing, and con- 
 taining a fine white sand, formerly exported in large 
 quantities to Dumbarton for the manufacture of glass. 
 In about the centre of the eastern coast is the bay of 
 Ardminish, ornamented at its head by the church and 
 manse, and resorted to by vessels that take away pro- 
 duce, or bring to the island coal, lime, and other com- 
 modities. A little northward of this is the bay of Dri- 
 myeon, a spacious and secure retreat ; and firm an- 
 chorage is also usually found in all the other bays in the 
 island, especially in that of Tarbert, within a mile of its 
 north-eastern extremity. Between Gigha and Cara is 
 the small uninhabited islet of Gigulum ; and between 
 this and Gigha is a sound affording good anchorage for 
 large shipping. This sound is much used by govern- 
 ment cutters, and by vessels trading with the northern 
 Highlands, as well as by vessels from England and Ire- 
 land, which visit this and the adjacent parish of Killean 
 for the purchase of seed- potatoes. The princi pal entrance 
 to the sound is from the east ; the western entrance is 
 much more dangerous, there being many rocks in it. 
 The most prominent headland in the parish, called Ard- 
 minish point, is on the north side of the bay of that 
 name. At the south-west end of Gigha is Sloc-an-leim, 
 or " the springing pit ", a subterraneous passage 133 feet 
 long, into which the sea rushes with considerable fury. 
 The shore of the island of Cara is rocky and steep, ex- 
 cept towards the north-east ; and at its southern extre- 
 mity is a precipitous rock, 117 feet high, called the Mull 
 of Cara, thronged by sea- fowl, and the resort of hawks. 
 Around this coast also, and that of the other islands, 
 mackerel, sea-perch, lythe, rock-cod, and many other 
 fish are found ; and cod, ling, and large haddocks may 
 be obtained on the banks, two or three miles distant. 
 Some rocky portions of the surface of Gigha are covered 
 with various species of lichen, of which parmelia, sticta- 
 ramalina, and lecanora are much esteemed as valuable 
 dyes ; and the juniper is abundant and prolific upon the 
 eastern coast. INIany tracts are covered with stunted 
 heath ; but the surface is in different places pleasingly 
 diversified with knolls and hillocks, profusely ornamented 
 w ith the wild or musk rose. On the coast are found the 
 ulva-latissima, used as a pickle, and the different kinds 
 of Carigean moss. 
 
 The SOIL consists of loam, in some parts containing 
 an admixture of sand, clay, and moss ; it is tolerably fer- 
 tile, and produces good crops of bear, oats, potatoes, 
 and turnips. The land is particularly adapted to the 
 growth of the last, but in consequence of the demand 
 for seed-potatoes, especially for Ireland, more attention 
 is paid to the cultivation of these than of turnip crops. 
 The lands in the parish are held by two famihes, one 
 having ff parts, and the other -/y parts. Of these proper- 
 ties, the larger is undergoing rapid improvement : good 
 houses, and fences or dykes, have of late been con- 
 structed ; much is being done in the way of draining, 
 and it is upon this property that a suitable rotation of 
 crops is best followed. On the other property there are 
 fewer signs of progress visible. In the parish is a com-
 
 GIG H 
 
 G I L M 
 
 mill, to which a new road was lately formed at a cost of 
 £250 ; the mill itself has heen repaired, and among 
 other improvements that have been found of general 
 advantage is the draining of the Mill-dam loch, affording 
 an opportunity to the people to obtain from it turf for 
 fuel. A few sheep are reared, and many from other 
 places are wintered here; about 1000 hogs, also, are 
 annually brought at the close of autumn from Jura and 
 other contiguous parts, to be tended at the rate of 2s. 6d. 
 each for five months. The strata of the parish comprise 
 mica-slate, felspar-slate, quartz, and hornblende, with 
 chlorite- slate, crossed in many places at right angles by 
 basaltic dykes ; and boulders of hornblende are fre- 
 quently to be seen both on and a little below the surface, 
 measuring two and three feet in diameter. Traces of 
 copper are observable in Gigha, and of iron-ore at the 
 south end of Cara. The plantations, which are but few, 
 consist of oak, ash, larch, plane, Scotch fir, and pineaster, 
 the latter being less affected by the sea air and storms 
 than any of the other kinds. The annual value of real 
 property in Gigha and Cara is £2091. 
 
 The population exhibit more of the maritime than of 
 the agricultural character ; the young men generally 
 become sailors, and a large proportion of the rest are 
 engaged in fishing for cod and ling for several months, 
 beginning about Candlemas. Upwards of twenty boats, 
 carrying four men each, are engaged in this pursuit ; 
 the fishermen proceed to the banks already referred to, 
 north-west and south-west of the parish, and usually 
 take as many fish as enable them, after plentifully sup- 
 plying their own families, to dispose of about fifty tons. 
 When cured, the fish are sold at Glasgow, Greenock, and 
 Campbelltown, at from £10 to £14 per ton. Besides the 
 fishing-boats, and twenty boats of smaller size, a vessel 
 of thirty tons and another of fourteen are employed in 
 carrying agricultural produce to market ; they convey 
 annually, on the average, 800 tons of potatoes, 400 
 quarters of bear, and 1,50 quarters of oats, besides black- 
 cattle, horses, sheep, and pigs, and a considerable por- 
 tion of dairy produce. Coal, lime, and other articles are 
 imported ; and vessels of large burthen visit the parish 
 from Ireland, England, and the Clyde, for potatoes, and 
 sometimes for cod and ling. A steam-boat, running 
 between Loch Tarbert and Islay, passes Gigha three 
 times a week in summer, and once a week in winter. 
 There is also a ferry from each of the properties to Tay- 
 inloan, a hamlet on the mainland, where is the receiving- 
 house for letters. Gigha is rather in advance of the 
 Hebrides in general, in point of cultivation of the land, 
 and intelligence of the inhabitants : its advantages for 
 improvement are very considerable at present, and are 
 likely to continue so. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 in the presbytery of Cantyre, synod of Argyll, and the 
 patronage belongs to the Duke of Argyll : the minister's 
 stipend is £266, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 
 per annum. The church was built about the year 1780, 
 and is in tolerable repair. The parochial school affords 
 instruction in English and Gaelic, with all the usual 
 branches ; Latin is also taught : the master has a salary of 
 £25. 13., and about £14 fees. In 1844 a good parochial 
 school-house and master's house were built. At the 
 distance of a mile from the present church may be seen 
 the walls of the former edifice, with a stone font, stand- 
 ing in the midst of the burying-ground. About the 
 centre of Gigha is Dun-Chifie, formerly, as is traditionally 
 Vol. I.— 489 
 
 reported, a strong fortification occupied by Keefie, the 
 King of Lochlin's son, who is said to have been killed 
 here by Diarmid, one of the heroes of Fingal. 
 
 GIGHA ISLE, in the parish of Barra, county of 
 Inverness. It is one of the Hebrides, and lies north- 
 east of Barra island, having Ottervore bay on the west : 
 the isle is of small extent, and is inhabited. 
 
 GIGULUM ISLE, in the parish of Gigha and Cara, 
 district of Cantyre, county of Argyll. This is a small 
 uninhabited islet, situated between the islands of Gigha 
 and Cara ; and in the sound between Gigulum and Gigha 
 is good anchorage ground for large vessels, as is more 
 particularly noticed in the article on the parish. 
 
 GILCOMSTON, a district, and for a time an eccle- 
 siastical parish, in the parish of Old Machar, city and 
 county of Aberdeen ; containing 5194 inhabitants. 
 This place, which forms part of the northern suburbs of 
 the city, is pleasantly situated on a gentle acclivity, and 
 near a rivulet which in its course turns some mills. 
 The streets are irregularly formed, apparently without 
 any regard to uniformity of plan; and the houses are 
 in general indiflferently built, of mean appearance, and 
 chiefly inhabited by labourers employed in agriculture 
 and in the several manufactories in the neighbourhood. 
 A distillery of whisky was established in 1750, by a 
 joint-stock company, at the mill of Gilcomston ; but 
 for want of sufficient encouragement, it was in a few 
 years discontinued, and a public brewery was subse- 
 quently established on the premises. To the west of 
 the town is the celebrated chalybeate called the Well 
 of Spaw ; and the environs abound with picturesque 
 scenery. The district was separated from the parish of 
 Old Machar under act of the General Assembly in 1834, 
 and was for a short time, for ecclesiastical purposes, a 
 parish of itself; it comprised about 600 acres of tole- 
 rably fertile land in good cultivation. Gilcomston church, 
 originally a chapel of ease, was erected in 1771, and 
 enlarged by galleries in 1796 ; it is a neat structure, 
 conveniently situated, and contains 1522 sittings. The 
 minister's stipend is £230, derived solely from the 
 seat-rents : patrons, the Subscribers. There are also an 
 episcopal chapel, erected by subscription in 1812, and 
 containing 386 sittings, and places of worship for mem- 
 bers of the Free Church and United Original Seceders. 
 Several Sabbath schools collectively contain nearly 300 
 children ; and connected with them is a library of 400 
 volumes. 
 
 GILLS, a township, in the parish of Canisbay, 
 county of Caithness, 15 miles (N. by W.) from Wick ; 
 containing 164 inhabitants. It is situated on the shore 
 of the Pentland Firth, nearly opposite the island of 
 Stroma, and at the head of Gills bay, into which a small 
 stream runs, after passing through the village. The bay 
 is tolerably safe for vessels in moderate weather, and in 
 this respect is preferable to Duncansbay and Freswick 
 bay, both in the parish ; but it cannot be regarded as an 
 eligible place of anchorage at other times. 
 
 GILMERTON, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in 
 the parish of Liberton, county of Edinburgh ; con- 
 taining 942 inhabitants, of whom 548 are in the village 
 of Gilmertou, 4 miles (S. E. by S.) from Edinburgh. 
 This district comprises about 1100 acres of land, the 
 whole in tillage or pasture, with the exception of some 
 small plantations around the seats of the principal heri- 
 tors. It contains several coal-mines, of which those of 
 
 3 R
 
 GILS 
 
 GIRT 
 
 Gilmerton, Drum, and Somerside, are the principal : the 
 Gilmerton mine ceased to be wrought in 1838, but was 
 subsequently brought again into operation. Iron-ore is 
 known to exist in considerable quantity, some of it of the 
 best black-band kind ; and the lime-works here are per- 
 haps among the oldest in the kingdom. In 1843 Sir 
 David Baird, Bart., the proprietor, erected a steam-engine 
 to take the water off the lime rock, and to draw the stone 
 to the surface on an inclined plane : also, a draw-kiln was 
 built for burning the limestone. Drum House, a fine 
 mansion, was erected in 1698 by Lord James Somerville, 
 but has since passed through the hands of various fami- 
 lies : Gilmerton House, the property of Sir David Baird, 
 Bart., is also an ancient structure ; and an elegant resi- 
 dence in the Elizabethan style has lately been built at 
 Fernieside. The village is situated on the road from 
 Edinburgh to Carlisle, and coUiers and carters form a 
 large part of its population. In the district are the two 
 smaller villages of Edgehead and Todhills. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally the place is within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Edinburgh, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; it is now 
 a preaching-station, and the stipend of the preacher is 
 £80 per annum, which is raised by subscriptions, and 
 collections in the parish church of Liberton. Gilmerton 
 church, opened for divine service in April 1837, is a neat 
 structure seated for 300 persons, built at a cost of about 
 £600, by subscription aided by a grant from the General 
 Assembly. The members of the Free Church also have a 
 place of worship. There is a school, the teacher of which 
 has a salary contributed by Sir David Baird and others, 
 and a house and garden. To the teacher of another 
 school David Anderson, Esq., of Moredun, pays a salary 
 of £10 ; and a sewing-school is supported by the Misses 
 Anderson. A small library was founded by the late 
 Rev. James Grant, minister of Liberton. The poor in 
 the village and district, amongst whom are a great num- 
 ber consisting of the residue of the operatives of the late 
 extensive coal and lime works, have their sufferings much 
 alleviated by the kind liberality of Mr. Anderson and his 
 family, who, besides their donations to the schools, and 
 other private charities, distribute oatmeal and coal to the 
 amount of upwards of £50 annually. Gilmerton Cave, 
 or, as it is usually termed, " the Cove", is a curious and 
 extensive subterraneous passage, consisting of several 
 apartments, dug out of the solid rock, with forms and 
 tables, similarly wrought, for the convenience of visiters. 
 It was the result of five years' hard labour of an eccen- 
 tric individual, a blacksmith, named Paterson, by whom 
 it was completed in 1724 j and it has since continued to 
 attract the attention of all strangers. In the cave is also 
 a well. 
 
 GILMERTON, a village, in the parish of Fowlis 
 Wester, county of Perth ; containing 203 inhabitants. 
 This is a modern village of neat appearance, well built, 
 and pleasantly situated on the high road from Perth to 
 Crieff. 
 
 GILSTON, NEW, a village, in the parish of Largo, 
 district of St. Andrew's, county of Fife, 4 miles (N. by 
 E.) from Largo ; containing 229 inhabitants. It hes in 
 the northern part of the parish, and near its eastern 
 boundary. In the vicinity of the village is a singular 
 mass of rum-coal, said to be eighty feet in thickness, and 
 wrought in open quarry. In this quarter of the parish, 
 also, are considerable plantations, consisting of oak, ash, 
 beech, elm, and other trees. 
 490 
 
 GIRTHON, a parish, in the stewartry of Kirkcud- 
 bright, 6 miles (N. W.) from Kirkcudbright; containing, 
 with the larger part of the burgh of Gatehouse of Fleet, 
 1874 inhabitants. This place, which is of great anti- 
 quity, is supposed to have derived its name, signifying 
 in the Celtic language "an inclosure" or "sanctuary", 
 from some religious establishment having the privilege 
 of sanctuary, and which existed at a very early period, 
 at the passage of the river Fleet. In 1300, Edward I. 
 of England, during the contested succession to the Scot- 
 tish throne, resided for several days at the old town of 
 Fleet, now Gatehouse, and presented an oblation at the 
 altar of Girthon : after levying some fines from the town, 
 for the misconduct of the inhabitants, who had attempted 
 to oppose his progress, he retired without further moles- 
 tation. The lands anciently belonged to a branch of the 
 family of Stewart, from whom they passed by marriage 
 to Donald de Levenax or Lennox, son of the Earl of 
 Lenno.x ; and on the death of the seventh lord of Gir- 
 thon, the estate, together with the family seat of Cally, 
 was conveyed by his daughter, in marriage, to Richard 
 Murray of Broughton, whose descendant is the present 
 proprietor. 
 
 The PARISH, which is bounded on the south and west 
 by the bay and river of Fleet, is about sixteen miles in 
 length and from two to five miles in breadth, compris- 
 ing 15,480 acres, whereof 4000 are arable, 1000 woodland 
 and plantations, and the remainder heath and waste 
 land, affording tolerable pasture for flocks of sheep. The 
 surface towards the north and east is mountainous and 
 bleak j towards the south, with the exception of some 
 gentle undulations, pretty level. In the mountainous 
 district are several lakes, the principal of which are Loch 
 Greanoch, about three miles in length and half a mile in 
 breadth ; Loch Skerroch, nearly half a mile square ; 
 Loch Fleet ; and Loch Whinnyan, on the eastern border 
 of the parish. From Loch Fleet flows the little Water 
 of Fleet ; and this, after a few miles, is joined by the 
 great Water of the same name, together making the 
 river Fleet, which after a winding course, dividing the 
 parish from that of Anwoth, runs into Fleet bay. In 
 Loch Greanoch are found char in abundance, and pike 
 and large trout in Loch Skerroch. A few salmon are 
 taken in the river Fleet, and flounders in great plenty ; 
 and near the mouth of the river are two small islands, 
 called the Isles of Fleet, where excellent oysters are ob- 
 tained. These isles are uninhabited, affording only pas- 
 turage for sheep. The soil is various : the arable lands, 
 which are under good cultivation, produce favourable 
 crops, and the grass-lands are luxuriant. The farm- 
 houses, most of which have been rebuilt, are substantial 
 and commodious ; and all the more recent improve- 
 ments in husbandry have been adopted. The cattle, of 
 which about 1200 are grazed, are of the Galloway breed ; 
 and the sheep, of which SOOO are fed in the mountain 
 pastures, are of the small native kind. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £5698. 
 
 There are considerable remains of ancient woods at 
 Castramont and a few other places ; and the plantations 
 are in a thriving condition. The substrata are chiefly 
 clay-slate and granite, of which latter the rocks are 
 principally composed. A slate-quarry was some years 
 since in operation, but it has been superseded by the im- 
 portation of slate from England and Wales, at a cheaper 
 rate ; and a vein of copper-ore, which was formerly
 
 GI R V 
 
 GI R V 
 
 wrought by a company from Wales, has been also dis- 
 continued. Cally, the seat of Mr. Murray of Broughton, 
 is a spacious and elegant structure of granite, erected in 
 1763, and since much improved; it contains a noble 
 hall of marble, in which are some handsome pieces of 
 sculpture, and has many stately apartments, with valu- 
 able paintings. The pleasure-grounds and gardens are 
 extensive and tastefully embellished, and in the park are 
 numerous deer, and some fine specimens of the ancient 
 Caledonian breed of cattle. For ecclesiastical pur- 
 poses the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery 
 of Kirkcudbright, synod of Galloway. The minister's 
 stipend is £158. 6. 8., with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £'20 per annum ; patron, the Crown. Girthon church, 
 situated at Gatehouse, is a neat substantial structure, 
 erected in 1818, and contains 714 sittings. The mem- 
 bers of the Free Church have a place of worship. The 
 parochial school is attended by ninety children : the 
 master has a salary of £45, increased to that amount by 
 Mr. Murray, with a house and garden ; and the fees 
 average about £40 per annum. A charity school is sup- 
 ported by Lady Anne Murray, in which the children are 
 gratuitously clothed and instructed. The site of the pa- 
 lace of the bishops of Galloway is still pointed out here, 
 though there are no vestiges of the building ; and in the 
 pleasure-grounds of Cally are the remains of the ancient 
 family seat. There are several small moats, called 
 "Doons", and also an ancient camp, forming one of a 
 line which traverses the stewartry. 
 
 :^iM GIRVAN, a busy sea-port, 
 
 4^ 2l^ '^-J j^. 1^. ^ market-town, and parish, 
 '^^^^'j^i^i^i^yi in the district of Carrick, 
 county of Ayr, 29 miles (N. 
 i^K N. E.) from Stranraer, and 
 '^ 97 (S. VV. by W.) from Edin- 
 burgh ; containing, in 1841, 
 ^^ 7424 inhabitants. Girvan 
 derives its name from the 
 gjp river on which it is situated, 
 and which is supposed to 
 have obtained its name of 
 Girvan from the British term 
 Garev-avan, or Garv-avan, signifying " the rough river ". 
 There are few circumstances of historical importance 
 connected with the place, and its origin and early history 
 are not distinctly recorded. The town is beautifully 
 seated at the mouth of the river, which here discharges 
 its waters into a spacious bay ; and commands an exten- 
 sive and interesting view of the sea, the rock of Ailsa, 
 the Mull and promontory of Cantyre, the islands of 
 Sanda, Arran, and Little Cumbray, part of the Isle of 
 Bute, and the coast of Ireland in the distance. It ap- 
 pears to have risen into note from the grant of a charter 
 to Thomas Boyd of Ballochtoul, which was recited and 
 confirmed to Sir Archibald Muir of Thornton, provost 
 of Edinburgh, in 1696 by William III., who bestowed 
 on it all the privileges of a burgh of barony j and from 
 the advantage of its situation on the coast, it gradually 
 increased in population and extent, and ultimately be- 
 came the seat of trade. The number of inhabitants was 
 much augmented by the introduction of cotton-weaving, 
 and the settlement of numerous families from Ireland, 
 for whom many small houses were built in the town and 
 suburbs. Since the opening of the Glasgow and Ayr 
 railway in 1840, the trade has greatly increased; the 
 491 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 population of the town and parish exceeds 8000, and 
 is rapidly augmenting. A public library is maintained 
 by subscription, and two circulating libraries have been 
 established, which are well supported ; there is also a 
 library in Girvan belonging to the agricultural society 
 of the district. 
 
 Not less than 2000 looms are employed in weaving 
 cotton for the Glasgow and Paisley manufacturers, who 
 have agents settled here for conducting that business ; 
 and many of the inhabitants are engaged in the several 
 trades connected with the port, and requisite for the 
 supply of the neighbourhood with various articles of mer- 
 chandise. Shipping is carried on to a very considerable 
 extent. There are about twenty vessels belonging to the 
 port, of from 100 to 300 tons' burthen, chiefly engaged 
 in the export of coal from the adjoining parish of Dailly, 
 and of farm produce. About 1200 bolls of wheat are 
 sent off quarterly, on the average ; from 3000 to 4000 
 tons of potatoes are annually shipped, and the yearly 
 export of coal amounts to 12,000 tons. The harbour is 
 one of the safest to enter, and one of the most secure 
 when within it, in the west of Scotland. Until lately it 
 was in a totally unimproved condition, admitting only 
 vessels of inconsiderable burthen ; but a small quay has 
 been constructed, which has much facilitated the expor- 
 tation of grain and coal : an increased improvement, 
 however, of the harbour, is still greatly to be desired, and 
 the trade of the town would also be promoted by the ex- 
 tension of the Ayr railway southward to Girvan. Branch 
 banks have been established, and there is a post-office. 
 The market, which is amply supplied with provisions of 
 all kinds, is regularly held, once a week ; and fairs, to 
 which black-cattle are brought for sale, are held on the 
 last Mondays in April and October, chiefly for the hiring 
 of servants. Facility of intercourse with all places of 
 importance in the district is afforded by excellent roads, 
 of which that from Glasgow to Portpatrick passes along 
 the west side of the parish for nearly nine miles ; and 
 there are good inland roads traversing the parish in all 
 directions. Previous to the opening of the Glasgow and 
 Ayr railway, there was but one coach running between 
 Girvan and Ayr, while at present there are not less than 
 three coaches, and two steam-boats plying daily : com- 
 munication has also lately been opened by coaches be- 
 tween Girvan and Wigtownshire, and steam navigation is 
 maintained with Glasgow for conveying agricultural pro- 
 duce to that city. The Girvan is frequented by salmon, 
 and a considerable fishery was formerly carried on, under 
 the protection of the charter, by the proprietors on both 
 sides of the river ; but it has been greatly diminished by 
 the laying down of stake-nets. The bay abounds with 
 fish of various kinds, the chief of which are cod, haddock, 
 whiting, mackerel, soles, flounders, turbot, and lobsters ; 
 but, notwithstanding, very little attention was paid to this 
 valuable fishery till of late, when some steps were taken 
 to render it more available to the trade of the place. 
 
 Within the last few years, the attention of those inter- 
 ested in the welfare of the town has been directed to the 
 obtaining of a local railway communication. In the 
 month of December 1844, the magistrates and town 
 council brought the subject formally under the consider- 
 ation of the landed proprietors in the district of Carrick, 
 urging the importance of an extension of the Glasgow 
 and Ayr railway to the port of Girvan, and the great 
 benefits that would result from an increased improvement 
 
 3 R2
 
 G I R V 
 
 G I R V 
 
 of the harbour. In the address then issued, the autho- 
 rities adverted to the favourable position of the place for 
 purposes of traffic with Ireland, Liverpool, and other 
 parts ; to the agricultural richness of the country to be 
 traversed, and, towards Girvan, its abundance of valu- 
 able minerals, particularly coal and limestone. The 
 town itself, also, with its large population extensively en- 
 gaged in manufactures and shipping, was stated to pre- 
 sent a powerful claim for the desired extension ; and the 
 inhabitants of the town of Maybole, and the villages of 
 Kirkmichael, Crossbill, &c., were likewise referred to as 
 being largely engaged in the cotton manufacture, and 
 likely to augment the traffic of the proposed line very 
 considerably. Accordingly, in the parliamentary session 
 of 1846, an act was passed for the construction of a rail- 
 way of twenty-one miles and a half, from the Ayr railway 
 near the manse of Newton to the town of Girvan, with a 
 branch of nearly a mile to Maybole ; to be called the 
 Glasgow and Belfast Union Railway. In the following 
 year, an act was passed authorizing, among other things, 
 a deviation of about four miles in the proposed line, and 
 a new branch of one mile and a quarter to Maybole in 
 lieu of that sanctioned by the act of 1846. Should this 
 extension of the Ayr line be carried out, and a good har- 
 bour formed, there is reason to believe that a great in- 
 crease of trade would spring up, and that Girvan would 
 soon become one of the most flourishing towns in the 
 west of Scotland. The trade in coal alone, is capable of 
 almost indefinite expansion ; the coal fields, which lie in 
 the parish of Dailly, are supposed to be almost inex- 
 haustible, and even at present there are four extensive 
 collieries along the proposed line capable of producing 
 100,000 tons a year. 
 
 The BURGH, under its charter, is governed by two 
 bailies and a council of twelve burgesses, assisted by a 
 town-clerk, treasurer, and other officers. Four of the 
 council retire annually, but they are capable of re-election 
 by the majority of the burgesses ; and the bailies are 
 annually elected by the council : the other officers of the 
 corporation are appointed by the magistrates. The 
 senior bailie is, by virtue of his office, a member of the 
 council, and the junior bailie takes the office of senior 
 magistrate for the ensuing year. The jurisdiction ex- 
 tends over the whole of the burgh, and the barony of 
 Ballochtoul. A bailie's court is held weekly on Wednes- 
 day, in the town-hall, for the determination of civil pleas 
 to the amount of £2, and for the trial of petty offences, 
 which are generally punished by the imposition of fines 
 not exceeding £1, and with imprisonment for non-pay- 
 ment. The average number of civil cases appears for 
 some years to have been gradually diminishing, and at 
 present is under fifty a year. This is attributable to the 
 introduction of small-debt sheriff courts, which are held 
 by the sheriff of the county once every four months, for 
 sums not exceeding £8. 6. 8. j and justice-of-peace courts, 
 which are held every month, for sums not exceeding £5. 
 All persons wishing to carry on trade must enter as free- 
 men, for which a fee of £2 on admission is paid to the 
 common fund. The police is under the management of 
 the magistrates ; and sixty of the inhabitants are annually 
 appointed constables for the preservation of the peace. 
 Attached to the town-hall is a prison for petty offenders 
 in default of payment of their fines, and for the temporary 
 confinement of others previously to their being sent to the 
 gaol of Ayr. 
 492 
 
 The PARISH is nine miles in length, and extends 
 about four miles in mean breadth, though of very irre- 
 gular form, varying in breadth from two to seven miles. 
 It is bounded on the west for nearly the whole of its 
 length, by the sea, and comprises about 19,000 acres, of 
 which the greater part is arable land and moorland 
 pasture, and the remainder waste, with a small portion 
 of woodland and plantation. The surface, which in no 
 part is very level, is diagonally intersected by a boldly 
 elevated ridge, whose highest point is 1200, and the 
 mean height 900, feet above the level of the sea. The 
 lands are watered by three rivers, of which the Girvan is 
 the principal ; the Lendal, a comparatively small stream, 
 falls into the sea at Carleton bay, and the Assel, after 
 flowing through the parish, falls into the Stinchar in the 
 parish of Colmonell. There are also two lakes ; but 
 though of great depth, they cover a very inconsiderable 
 portion of ground. The soil is generally fertile, and in 
 the lower parts well adapted for the growth of wheat ; 
 in the higher parts the lands are coarse, and compara- 
 tively unproductive. Near the town the land is of the 
 very best quality, and lets at from £6 to £8 an acre. 
 The crops are wheat, oats, barley, and bear, potatoes in 
 large quantities, beans, peas, and a considerable breadth 
 of turnips for the sheep ; the system of husbandry is 
 improved, and draining has been practised to a great 
 extent on the lands requiring it. In fact, better cultivated 
 land is not to be found within the county of Ayr. Sea- 
 weed, obtainable in abundance on the shore, is used as 
 manure, but not altogether to the exclusion of lime. 
 The farm-houses and offices in the parish have been 
 almost all rebuilt within the last fifty or sixty years, 
 and are in general substantial and commodious ; some 
 of them, of more recent erection, are inferior to none in 
 this part of the country. Great attention is paid to live 
 stock, though from a greater quantity of land having 
 been improved and rendered arable, the number of cattle 
 pastured has proportionally diminished. The dairy-farms 
 are well managed ; the cows are of the Ayrshire breed, 
 and about 500 are kept on the several farms. About 
 300 head of young cattle are pastured in the parish. The 
 sheep are chiefly of the larger black-faced breed, with a 
 few of the Cheviot ; upwards of 2000 are kept, and about 
 400 bought in and fed on turnips for the markets. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £12,S4.t. 
 There is very little natural wood, and the plantations are 
 on a limited scale. 
 
 The substrata are mostly limestone, red freestone, 
 whinstone of a bluish colour, and graystone in detached 
 masses ; the limestone has been extensively quarried for 
 the supply of the neighbouring district. Copper has 
 been found on some of the lands ; and it is thought 
 there are abundant veins of the ore at Ardmillan. In- 
 deed, attempts have been made to ascertain the fact, but 
 upon too inefficient a scale to warrant any just conclu- 
 sion : what ore was obtained was found to be of rich 
 quality, and iu searching for it several beautiful speci- 
 mens of asbestos were discovered. Along the coast, the 
 rocks are chiefly of the conglomerate kind ; and huge 
 masses are to be seen, piled upon each other, and in 
 some instances so nicely poised on the slender props 
 which sustain their prodigious weight as to fill the be- 
 holder with fearful apprehensions. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; patron, the Crown. The
 
 GLAD 
 
 GLAD 
 
 minister's stipend is £^69. 12., with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £12 per annum. Girvan church, situated in 
 the centre of the town, and close to the Glasgow and 
 Portpatrick road, was erected about the year 1780, and 
 is adapted for a congregation of 850 persons ; it is in 
 bad repair, uncomfortable, and very awkwardly situated. 
 There are places of worship for the United Presbyterian 
 Church, Wesleyan Methodists, the Free Church, and 
 the First Reforming Protestant Congregation of Girvan, 
 a body that separated from the Free Church. The paro- 
 chial school is well conducted ; the master has a salary 
 of £34, with £50 fees, and an allowance of £2.0 in lieu 
 of a house and garden. He also receives the interest of 
 £1000 bequeathed by Mrs. Crauford, of Ardmillan, for 
 the education of forty children without fees, of whom 
 ten are taught church music by the precentor of the 
 church, to whom she left £12 per annum for that pur- 
 pose. Another school is supported by subscription, for 
 teaching children to read the Scriptures, and for instruct- 
 ing them in the Catechism. A savings' bank has been 
 established, and some benevolent societies have contri- 
 buted to diminish the number of applications for paro- 
 chial aid. Vestiges remain of numerous small circular 
 camps ; and there were formerly many cairns, but most 
 of them have been destroyed to furnish materials for 
 fences : on removing one of these, a stone coffin of thin 
 slabs was found, and an urn of earthenware, rudely or- 
 namented, containing ashes. 
 
 GLACK, a hamlet, in the parish of Methven, county 
 of Perth ; containing 36 inhabitants. 
 
 GLADSJMUIR, a parish, in the county of Hadding- 
 ton, 3| miles (E. by N.) from Tranent; containing 
 1699 inhabitants. This place, which was a wide un- 
 cultivated moor, is supposed to have derived its name 
 from its being the resort of vast numbers of kites, or 
 gleds, as they were commonly called. Part of the lands 
 belonged to William Baliol, who appears to have sworn 
 fealty to Edward L of England in 1296 ; he was pro- 
 prietor of Hoprig and Penston, in the present parish, 
 and acquired the lands of Lamington in the county of 
 Lanark by marriage with a daughter, it is said, of William 
 Wallace. The family took the designation of Laming- 
 ton, altering their name to Baillie ; and their lineal de- 
 scendant is the present proprietor of Lamington, Hoprig, 
 and Penston. Gladsmuir parish is five miles in length, 
 extending from the Firth of Forth on the north to the 
 river Tyne on the south ; it is four miles in breadth, 
 and comprises 6*31 acres, of which 6386 are arable and 
 in good cultivation, 302 woodland and plantations, 
 thirty-four occupied with homesteads, and seven and a 
 half with roads. The surface rises gradually from the 
 northern and southern extremities, forming an elevated 
 ridge nearly in the centre of the parish, on the highest 
 point of which the church is situated, and along which 
 passes the great London road. The shore of the Firth, 
 which bounds the parish for about a mile, is rugged, and 
 interspersed with large masses of detached rocks. The 
 Tyne, which forms a boundary for something more than 
 a mile and a half, is here but an inconsiderable stream, 
 scarcely sufficient for turning some mills in its course. 
 In the lower lands are several copious springs, affording 
 an abundant supply of water. The scenery is generally 
 pleasing, and in some parts embellished with rich and 
 flourishing plantations : from the higher grounds are ob- 
 tained extensive and interesting views. 
 493 
 
 In this parish the soil is various ; in some parts a rich 
 loam, in others loam intermixed with clay, in some light 
 and sandy, and in others a deep moss : the crops are 
 barley, oats, wheat, beans, peas, potatoes, and turnips. 
 The system of agriculture is in a very advanced condi- 
 tion : the lands have been greatly improved by drain- 
 ing, and by the introduction of bone-dust, rape, and 
 guano as manures ; much waste has been reclaimed, and 
 many tracts of sterile marsh brought into a highly- 
 cultivated state. The farm-houses are substantial and 
 well built, and on many of the farms are threshing-mills 
 driven by steam ; the lands are inclosed with hedges of 
 thorn, and ditches, which are kept in good order. Great 
 attention is paid to the rearing of live stock : the sheep, 
 of which from 2000 to 3000 are pastured, are chiefly 
 of the Cheviot breed, with a cross between that and the 
 Leicestershire ; and the cattle, of which 500 are annually 
 fattened for the markets, and the milch-cows, are many 
 of them of the Ayrshire breed. The woods consist of 
 oak, beech, lime, birch, elm, chesnut, and hazel ; and the 
 plantations of Scotch fir, spruce, and larch. The lands 
 are rich in mineral wealth, and the inhabitants, in addi- 
 tion to their agricultural pursuits, are extensively em- 
 ployed in mining. The substrata are principally coal, 
 limestone, and ironstone. Coal is very abundant, parti- 
 cularly in the district of Penston, where it has been 
 worked for some centuries ; the old mines being almost 
 exhausted, new ones have been opened in the same field, 
 and every where coal is found in abundance. The seams 
 vary in thickness from thirty-two inches to three feet ; 
 steam-engines have been erected in the new pits, to 
 drain off the water, and the workings are successfully 
 carried on. In 1S35, a blacksmith at the village of 
 Mc Merry, on the property of St. Germains, in sinking 
 a well behind his house, discovered a vein of parrot-coal, 
 which was profitably wrought for some time, but after- 
 wards failed. Between Gladsmuir and the village of 
 Samuelston, the magistrates of Haddington attempted 
 to form a colliery on a portion of land that belonged 
 to the burgh ; but after an outlay of more than £2000, 
 they abandoned the proceedings. Limestone is worked 
 in several parts, and near Longniddry is a kiln for 
 burning it into lime ; there are also kilns in other places, 
 but the works are not carried on to any great extent. 
 Iron-ore is frequently found, and was wrought for some 
 time on the lands belonging to the Earl of Wemyss. The 
 annual value of real property in Gladsmuir is £11,103. 
 Elvingston House, a seat in the parish, is a handsome 
 mansion, completed in 1840, and pleasantly situated in 
 a tastefully laid-out demesne, approached on the east by 
 an avenue of trees about 300 yards in length. South- 
 field, the property of the Earl of Wemyss, is also a hand- 
 some house, surrounded with plantations, and now in 
 the occupation of a tenant. At Greendykes are some 
 farm-buildings of very superior character. The nearest 
 market-town is Haddington, which is the principal mart 
 for the agricultural produce, and with which, and the 
 neighbouring towns, facilities of communication are 
 afforded by excellent roads : the London road passes for 
 nearly three miles through the parish, and the numerous 
 cross roads are kept in good repair by statute labour. 
 Great facility of intercourse is also afl'orded by the North- 
 British railway, and its Haddington branch. 
 
 The parish consists of the lauds of Samuelston, Pen- 
 ston, Elvingston, and others, which in the year 1650
 
 GL A I 
 
 GL AM 
 
 were severed from the parishes of Haddington and 
 Aberlady, and a church erected at Thrieplaw, which 
 continued to be the parochial church till 1695, when an- 
 other edifice was built, and the original one was suffered 
 to fall into decay. Gladsmuir is in the presbytery of 
 Haddington, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; alternate 
 patrons, the Crown and the Earl of Hopetoun. The 
 minister's stipend is £316. 17.,^'ith a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £8 per annum. Gladsmuir church, situated 
 nearly in the centre of the parish, is a handsome struc- 
 ture, built within the last few years, and adapted for 
 a congregation of about 750 persons. The eminence on 
 which it is built commands a magnificent prospect em- 
 bracing the Firth of Forth with the county of Fife, the 
 North Berwick and the Traprain hills, the vale of Tyne 
 and the Lammermoor hills, the distant heights of Dum- 
 barton and the county of Perth, and a vast variety of 
 other interesting objects. The parochial school affords 
 education to nearly 100 children ; the master has a 
 salary of £34, with £32 fees, and a house and garden. 
 There are also schools at Saniuelston and Longniddry, 
 the master of the former of which has a salary of £15, 
 paid by the Earl of Haddington, and of the latter one of 
 £9, paid by the Marquess of Lome and the Ear! of 
 Wemyss ; in addition to the fees, and a house and 
 garden rent-free each. 
 
 In various parts are the foundations of old houses, 
 leading to an opinion that the parish was once more 
 populous. There are also remains of several ancient 
 mansions, namely, the mansion of Longniddry, the seat 
 of a branch of the Douglas family ; the houses of East 
 and West Adniston, of which scarcely any vestiges are 
 remaining ; and the old mansion-house of Penston, once 
 of great strength, with arched roofs, but which has been 
 long a ruin, and its remains converted into farm-build- 
 ings. Some stone coffins have been discovered at Seaton 
 hill, containing human bones ; they were generally of 
 red flagstone, about five feet long and two feet wide, and 
 near them was found an urn filled with burnt bones. 
 On the lands of Southfield, some labourers, while making 
 drains, dug up a considerable number of small British 
 coins of silver ; and several similar coins have been 
 found at Greendykes. John Knox, when compelled to 
 leave St. Andrew's, took refuge at Longniddry, where 
 he acted as tutor to the sons of Mr. Douglas ; and 
 during his stay there, he preached the reformed doc- 
 trines in a chapel near the mansion-house, which still, 
 though in ruins, retains the name of " Knox's Kirk". 
 On the property of Lady Ruthven are slight vestiges of 
 the church that was situated at Thrieplaw ; upon the 
 establishment of the coal-vrorks at that place, the re- 
 maining walls were incorporated into the dwellings of 
 the miners. In the same vicinity, near the village of 
 Penston, are the ruins of an old windmill, which, in the 
 earlier working of the collieries in the neighbourhood, 
 was erected for the purpose of drawing off the water 
 from the pits, which is now much more effectually done 
 by steam-engines. Dr. Robertson, the historian, principal 
 of the university of Edinburgh, was at one time incum- 
 bent of this parish, where he succeeded his uncle, Andrew 
 Robertson, in 1744 ; and during his residence here, he 
 composed the greater portion of his History of Scotland. 
 GLAIDNEY, or Glaidney-Cotton, a village, in the 
 parish and district of Cupar, county of Fife ; contain- 
 ing 195 inhabitants. This village is situated near the 
 494 
 
 southern extremity of the parish, and is connected with 
 the northern portion by a handsome bridge over the river 
 Eden. It is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in the 
 various manufactures of the town and parish. 
 
 GLAMMIS, a parish, in the county of Forfar ; con- 
 taining, with the villages of Arnyfoul, Charleston, Drum- 
 glay, Grasshouses of Thornton, Milton, Newton, and 
 Thornton, 2167 inhabitants, of whom 556 are in the 
 village of Glammis, 52 miles (N.) from Edinburgh. This 
 place, the name of which is of uncertain derivation, is 
 identified with the murder of Malcolm II., which, ac- 
 cording to some writers, is said to have occurred in the 
 castle of Glammis, at that time a royal residence, and, 
 according to others, to have happened in a skirmish 
 with his assailants in the immediate vicinity, in which 
 he was mortally wounded. The castle and the lands 
 belonging to it were granted by Robert II. to Sir John 
 Lj'on, ancestor of the Strathmore family ; upon whom, 
 also, he conferred his second daughter in marriage, and 
 the barony of Kinghorn. On the conviction of Lady 
 Glammis, who was executed in 1537, for an alleged con- 
 spiracy against the life of James V., the castle was for- 
 feited to the crown, and again became a royal residence ; 
 but on a subsequent discovery of her innocence, the 
 honours and the estate were restored to her son. Lord 
 Glammis, whose descendant, the Earl of Strathmore, is 
 the present proprietor. The parish, which lies in the 
 southern portion of the vale of Strathmore, is situated 
 near the base of the Grampian hills, and is about ten 
 miles in length, varying from one mile to five miles in 
 breadth, and comprising an area of 15,000 acres, of which 
 8000 are arable, 4500 meadow and pasture, 1600 wood- 
 land and plantations,and the remainder roads and waste. 
 Towards the north the surface is generally level, w'ith an 
 elevation of about 260 feet above the sea ; towards the 
 south it rises by gentle undulations to the Sidlaw hills, 
 which are from 1000 to 1500 feet in height. The princi- 
 pal river is the Dean, which, issuing from Loch Forfar, 
 at the north-eastern extremity of the parish, flows in a 
 western direction, receiving in its course the BaUandarg 
 burn, the Kerbet water, and the Glammis burn, and 
 falling into the river Isla. Loch Forfar, the western ex- 
 tremity of which is within the parish, was formerly 200 
 acres in extent, but has been reduced to nearly one-half 
 by draining. There are several springs in the parish, 
 some of which are slightly chalybeate. 
 
 Though much diversified, the soil is generally fertile : 
 on the north side of the river Dean it is a light loam, 
 alternated with gravel and sand, and in the hollows are 
 some tracts of moss ; on the south side is a deep brown 
 loam of great richness, with other kinds. The system 
 of agriculture is advanced, and the lands have been im- 
 proved by large quantities of marl, procured by the 
 draining of the lake. The cattle, of which great numbers 
 are reared in the pastures, were chiefly of the native 
 Angus breed, but this has been giving way of late years 
 to the short-horned : they are sent by the Dundee 
 steamers to the London market, where they obtain a 
 high price. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £7801. The plantations, which are extensive, 
 consist of larch, spruce, and Scotch firs, ash, elm, oak, 
 and birch ; they are under careful management, and in 
 a thriving state. In this parish the chief substrata are 
 of the old red sandstone formation, whinstone, and trap ; 
 and near the Sidlaw hills are some beds of slate, which 
 
 i
 
 GL A M 
 
 G L A S 
 
 have been extensively worked : the sandstone is quarried 
 for building, and the whinstone for the roads. A kind 
 of grit is found, of which mill-stones are made for ex- 
 portation ; and there are veins of lead-ore, of which 
 those near the village were formerly wrought. Glammis 
 Castle, the seat of the Earl of Strathmore, is a vene- 
 rable and very ancient structure, consisting of two qua- 
 drangular ranges of great strength, crowned with turrets 
 and lofty towers, the principal of which, 100 feet in 
 height, constitutes the central portion of the mansion. 
 The buildings were repaired, and partly modernised, 
 under the superintendence of Inigo Jones ; and other 
 restorations and additions have been subsequently made. 
 In front of the mansion is a massive pedestal, on which 
 are four lions rampant of gigantic size, each holding a 
 dial, facing one of the cardinal points. The mansion 
 contains a splendid collection of paintings, an extensive 
 assortment of ancient armour, and a valuable museum of 
 natural curiosities and antiques. The park in which it 
 is situated abounds with ornamental timber, and with 
 stately avenues of ancient growth leading to the castle, 
 one of which is more than a mile in length. 
 
 The village of Glammis is nearly in the centre of the 
 parish, on the great road from Aberdeen to Edinburgh. 
 A public library, containing about 700 volumes, is sup- 
 ported by subscription ; and a handsome building, con- 
 taining two spacious halls, has been erected by the 
 friendly societies of masons and gardeners. The manu- 
 facture of brown linen, chiefly Osnaburghs and sheetings, 
 is carried on to a considerable extent, for which purpose 
 a mill for spinning flax was erected on the Glammis 
 burn in 1806 ; the machinery is driven by a water-wheel 
 of twenty-four horse power. The yarn spun at this mill 
 is woven, in several of the villages in the parish, into 
 brown linen, of which about 4000 pieces are annually 
 made for the Dundee market ; and 7500 pieces are 
 woven by private individuals in different parts of the 
 parish, in addition to what is made from the yarn spun 
 at the mill. A circulating library, containing 300 
 volumes, has been opened for the use of the persons em- 
 ployed by the mill-owner. The railway from Forfar to 
 Perth intersects the parish ; and facility of communica- 
 tion is also maintained by the roads from Aberdeen to 
 Edinburgh and from Kirriemuir to Dundee, which inter- 
 sect each other in the village, and by good roads in 
 various other directions through the parish. Fairs for 
 cattle and sheep are held five times a year ; the older in 
 May and November, and those of more recent date in 
 April, July, and October. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Forfar, synod of Angus and 
 Mearns. The minister's stipend is £25.5. 15., with a 
 man.se, and a glebe valued at £16. 10. per annum; pa- 
 tron, the Earl of Strathmore. Glammis church, erected 
 in 1793, is a neat plain structure with a spire, and con- 
 tains 950 sittings. The parochial school is attended by 
 about seventy children ; the master has a salary of £34, 
 with a house, an allowance of £1. 2. in lieu of garden, 
 and fees averaging £'25 per annum. There were three 
 ancient castles ; one at Cossins, the property of the 
 Strathmore family ; one in the glen of Ogilvie, and one 
 in the glen of Denoon ; but they have all been totally 
 destroyed. Within a short distance of the church is an 
 obelisk of rude design, raised to commemorate the 
 murder of Malcolm : on one side are sculptured the 
 495 
 
 figures of two men, above which are a lion and a centaur ; 
 and on the other are several sorts of fishes, supposed to 
 have allusion to the loch of Forfar, in which the assas- 
 sins were drowned while making their retreat from the 
 castle. In a wood not far from the village of Thornton 
 is a large cairn, on which is also an obelisk, similar to 
 the former, and named King Malcolm's Gravestone. 
 Near Cossins is a third obelisk, called St. Orland's Stone, 
 on one side of which is a cross JJeuri, and on the other 
 the figures of four men on horseback, in full speed, one 
 of whom is trampling under his horse's feet a wild boar ; 
 and near the base of the obelisk is the figure of a dragon. 
 This place gives the title of Baron Glammis to the Earl 
 of Strathmore, that dignity having been conferred on 
 Patrick Lyon in 1445. 
 
 GLASFORD, county of Lanark. — See Glassford. 
 
 GLASGOW, a city, 
 the seat of a university, and 
 a sea-port, having separate 
 jurisdiction, locally in the 
 Lower ward of the county 
 of Lanark, and situated in 
 longitude 4° 15' 51" (W.), 
 and latitude 55° 52' 10" (N.), 
 23 miles (E. by S.) from 
 Greenock, 29 (S. W. by S.) 
 from Stirling, 40 (N.E. by N.) 
 from Ayr, 47 (W. by S.) from 
 Edinburgh, 79 (N. N. W.) 
 from Dumfries, 144 (S. W.) from Aberdeen, 196 (N. N. E.) 
 from Dublin, 226 (N. W. by N.) from Manchester, and 
 407 (N. W. by N.) from London ; containing, in the year 
 1841, 120,183, and, with the suburbs of Barony and 
 Gorbals, 274,533 inhabitants. The following is a list of 
 the subjects comprised in the article, with the page in 
 which each head or division occurs : — 
 
 Seal and Arms. 
 
 Early History 496 
 
 Events of the 15th Century 496 
 
 Of the 16th 497 
 
 Of the 17th 498 
 
 And of the 18th and 19th 
 
 Centuries 498 
 
 General Description of the 
 
 City 501 
 
 Lighting, Supply of Water, 
 
 &c 602 
 
 Libraries 502 
 
 Literary and Scientific In- 
 stitutions 502 
 
 Places of Amusement .... 503 
 Trade and Commerce: ori- 
 gin and progress of the 
 various kinds of Manufac- 
 ture 
 
 Business of the Port : Ship- 
 ping, Customs, Harbour, 
 
 &e 
 
 Steam Navigation 506 
 
 Forth and Clyde, Monkland, 
 and Johnstone Canals . . . 506 
 
 Railways 606 
 
 Public Buildings connected 
 ivith Trade : the Ex- 
 change 507 
 
 Corn Exchange and other 
 
 Markets 507 
 
 Municipal Affairs 608 
 
 503 
 
 505 
 
 509 
 
 609 
 
 PubUc Buildings connected 
 
 with Municipal Affairs. 
 City and County Build- 
 ings, Merchants' House, 
 Trades' House, Prisons 
 Origin and progress of the 
 
 University 510 
 
 Its Government ; Professors, 
 
 Bursai'ies, &c 510 
 
 Buildings of the University 511 
 TheAndersonian Institution 511 
 Ecclesiastical Affairs, Pa- 
 rishes, Churches, &c 512 
 
 The Cathedral 512 
 
 Parishes in the City 512 
 
 Former Quoad Sacra Pa- 
 rishes 513 
 
 Barony Parish 513 
 
 Necropolis 614 
 
 Schools and Benevolent In- 
 stitutions 514 
 
 The High School 514 
 
 The Royal Infirmary 514 
 
 Lunatic Asylum, Magdalen 
 Asylum, Lock Hospital, 
 St. Nicholas' Hospital, 
 
 cSlc 615 
 
 Ilutcheson's Hospital 515 
 
 Charitable Societies and Be- 
 quests 515 
 
 The Town Hospital 516 
 
 Glasgow is the largest and by far the most populous 
 city in Scotland. Its history first claims notice : —
 
 GL A S 
 
 G L AS 
 
 Historical Account. 
 
 This place, which appears to have been a Roman sta- 
 tion within the wall of Antoninus, and to have formed 
 part of the province of yalentia, is conjectured by some 
 authorities to derive its name, originally Glas- Achadh , 
 said by them to denote in the Gaelic language " a green 
 field ", from a verdant piece of ground on the bank of 
 the Clyde, by which it is bounded on the south-east. 
 According to others, the term signifies " a dark glen", 
 and arose from a secluded retreat occupied by .St. Ken- 
 TiGERN, son of Thametes, daughter of Loth, King of 
 the Picts, who was born at Culross about the year 516. 
 St. Kentigern was educated under the care of St. Serva- 
 nus, Bishop of Orkney, by whom he was generally ad- 
 dressed in the Norwegian term, Mon Gha, an epithet of 
 affectionate endearment, from which appellation he has 
 been also designated as St. Mungo. On the death of 
 Servanus, Kentigern, who had become celebrated for his 
 sanctity, retired into Wales, where he founded a mo- 
 nastery which he afterwards resigned to St. Asaph ; and 
 returning into Scotland, he fixed his abode in a narrow 
 glen near the site of the present cathedral. Here, after 
 living for some time'in a solitary cell, he in 560 laid the 
 foundation of a stately church, which was amply en- 
 dowed by Ryderick, or Roderick, King of the Scots, who 
 founded the see of Glasgow, of which he made Kentigern 
 the first bishop. St. Kentigern died in 610, and was 
 buried in the church he had founded, where his monu- 
 ment is still preserved. He was succeeded in the diocese 
 by his disciple Baldred, who had instituted a religious 
 house at Inchinnan ; and after Baldred's decease, the see 
 became successively a prey to the Picts, Scots, Saxons, 
 Britons, and Danes, by whom it was eventually so 
 reduced that little is known of its subsequent history for 
 a period of nearly 500 years. In 1115, the establish- 
 ment was refounded by David, Prince or Earl of Cum- 
 berland, who appointed his tutor and chaplain, John 
 AcHAius, bishop of the diocese ; and on his accession to 
 the throne of Scotland by the title of David I., he richly 
 endowed the see, and made the bishop chancellor of the 
 kingdom. This office, however, the bishop soon after- 
 wards resigned, devoting his attention solely to the duties 
 of his diocese; he rebuilt part of the cathedral in 1136, 
 and the edifice was consecrated in the presence of the 
 king, who, on the occasion, assigned to it the lands now 
 called Partick. In 1180, Josceline, who had succeeded 
 John Achaius, materially enlarged and beautified the 
 cathedral, and obtained from William the Lion a charter, 
 erecting the town which had risen up under the auspices 
 of the prelates into a free burgh, and granting an annual 
 fair for eight days. Consequently, the place appears to 
 have been, in 1268, governed by a provost and bailie, 
 appointed by the bishop, and who had the power to hold 
 courts of justice, and enjoyed various other privileges. 
 
 In 1300, Edward I. of England, having possessed 
 himself of all the fortresses in the country, appointed 
 Anthony Beck to the see of Glasgow ; and his general. 
 Earl Percy, who had usurped the military government 
 of the western district of Scotland, seized on the epis- 
 copal palace. Upon this, the town became the scene of a 
 sanguinary conflict between the troops of Edward and 
 the Scots under Sir William Wallace, who, assisted 
 by his relative^ Adam Wallace of Richardtown, the laird 
 496 
 
 of Auchinleck, and a few of his trusty adherents, marched 
 from Ayr during the night, and arriving the following 
 morning at the bridge of Glasgow, crossed the river, 
 and drew up his forces on the spot where Bridgegate 
 now stands. Forming his men into two divisions, one, 
 led by himself, marched directly up the High-street to 
 meet Percy's troops, consisting of 1000 men, and the 
 other division, led by the laird of Auchinleck, took a 
 circuitous route by Drygate. The action commenced 
 between Wallace's party and the earl, near the site of 
 the present college, and was continued for a time with 
 resolute valour on both sides ; but while the victory was 
 still doubtful, the division under Auchinleck, attacking 
 the English in the rear, put them completely to the rout. 
 Percy was killed by Wallace, who, not thinking his vic- 
 tory decisive, or deeming it unsafe to remain in his 
 present situation, advanced to Bothwell, and, assailing 
 a large body of Northumbrians, gained a second victory 
 over superior numbers. In the years 1350, 1380, and 
 1381 the plague committed great ravages in the town; 
 and in 1387, during the prelacy of Bishop Glendoning, 
 the spire of the cathedral was destroyed by lightning. 
 A mint was established in Drygate-street in the time of 
 Stuart, Earl of Carrick, afterwards Robert III. ; and 
 coins were struck, having on the obverse the king's 
 crest and crown, without the sceptre, with the legend 
 " Bobertus, Dei Gratia Re.r Scotorum ", and on the re- 
 verse, " Dominus Protector " around the outer circle, and 
 in an inner circle " I 'ilia de Glasgow". In 1431, Isa- 
 bella, cousin to James I., devised the lands of Ballagan 
 to the convent of the Grey Friars at Glasgow, for the 
 salvation of her soul, and the souls of her husband, the 
 Duke of Albany ; her father ; and three sons. 
 
 From 1450 to 1600. 
 
 In 1450, Bishop Turnbull obtained from James II. 
 a charter erecting Glasgow into a regality, and from 
 Pope Nicholas V. a bull for the foundation of a univer- 
 sity, which he amply endowed. This establishment 
 tended greatly to the increase and prosperity of the 
 town, which, prior to that event, had scarcely a popu- 
 lation of 1500 persons; but the privileges granted to 
 the new institution deprived the citizens, to a consider- 
 able extent, of their political independence. The bishops, 
 also, a long time exercised the right of appointing the 
 provost and bailies of the regality; but it eventually 
 became vested in the Lennox family, who ultimately 
 resigned their power to the crown, and after 1621 the 
 election was vested in the magistrates and council of 
 the town. Before the middle of the fifteenth century, 
 the inhabitants resided chiefly in the vicinity of the ca- 
 thedral, and in that part of the High-street which was 
 bounded by the episcopal palace. After the establish- 
 ment of the university and the foundation of St. Ni- 
 cholas' hospital, however, the city began gradually to 
 extend to the present Cross, and eastward in the di- 
 rection of the Gallowgate. In 1484, the citizens erected 
 a collegiate church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, in a 
 right line westward from the Gallowgate, and the build- 
 ings consequently stretched towards that edifice, now 
 the Tron church : the inhabitants being then chiefly 
 employed in the fishery of the Clyde, a street was also 
 formed, leading to the river, and which was called Fish- 
 ergate, and is now Bridgegate-street. By act of parlia-
 
 r 
 
 G L A S 
 
 raent, in 14S8, the diocese of Glasgow was erected info 
 a metropolitan see, of which Robert Blackadder the 
 bishop became archbishop ; and the temporalities and 
 privileges of the archdiocese were confirmed by charter 
 of James VI. After the martyrdom of Hamilton, abbot 
 of Fearn, who had imbibed the doctrines of the reformed 
 religion, and who was burnt at St. Andrew's in 1538, it 
 was thought expedient, for the suppression of heresy, 
 to make a public example in the city of Glasgow ; and 
 as the then archbishop, Dunbar, was a man of extreme 
 benevolence and an enemy to persecution, some friars 
 were sent from St. Andrew's for the purpose. On this 
 occasion, Jeremiah Russell, of the (jrey Friars, at Glas- 
 gow, and a young gentleman of Ayr, not more than 
 eighteen years of age, were condemned to be burnt at 
 the stake ; and the sentence, notwithstanding the remon- 
 strances of the bishop, was soon afterwards executed. 
 
 On the death of James V., his infant daughter, Mary, 
 Queen of Scots, was sent to France ; and Cardinal 
 Beaton, Archbishop of St. Andrew's, being appointed 
 regent, subsequently resigned that post to the Earl of 
 Arran, afterwards Duke of Chatelherault ; but the earl 
 became so unpopular that the queen dowager and the 
 cardinal invited the Earl of Lennox, then in France, to 
 come over, and take upon himself the important office. 
 Arran, however, compromising his difference with the 
 queen and Beaton, was allowed nominally to retain the 
 regency, leaving the chief administration to the cardinal. 
 Lennox, exasperated by this insult, raised an army of 
 10,000 men, and marching from Glasgow to Leith, 
 offered the cardinal battle ; but the latter, unprepared 
 to encounter so formidable a force, negotiated for a 
 truce, and the earl returned to Glasgow, and placing a 
 garrison in the bishop's castle, proceeded to Dumbarton 
 to hold a conference. The regent, having mustered an 
 army in the mean time, stormed the castle, and after 
 compelling the garrison to surrender upon terms, put 
 every man to the sword. Upon this, Lennox, resolved 
 on making a desperate effort to displace Arran, and 
 obtain the regency, in which he was assisted by the Earl 
 of Glencairn, attempted to march to Clydesdale to give 
 his opponents battle ; and the regent, to prevent this 
 movement, endeavoured to take possession of Glasgow ; 
 but Glencairn, with about 800 of his vassals, aided by 
 the citizens, attacked the troops of the regent at a place 
 called the Butts, and achieved a partial success, becoming 
 master of the artillery of his adversaries. Just on the 
 eve of victory, however, a small party of horse under 
 Robert Boyd coming to the succour of the regent, Glen- 
 cairn, apprehending that a greater force was in reserve, 
 fled with the utmost precipitation ; and Arran, entering 
 the city, abandoned it to the mercy of his soldiers, by 
 whom it was plundered and nearly destroyed. In this 
 engagement two gallant sons of the Earl of Glencairn 
 were slain. 
 
 Henry, Lord Darnley, the husband of Mary, Queen 
 of Scots, after the celebration of the birth of a son, in 
 1566, arrived from Stirling on a visit to his father, who 
 resided at Limmerfield, near the Barony church, Glas- 
 gow, where being taken ill, the queen came from Stirling, 
 and remained with him till he was sufficiently recovered 
 to be removed to Edinburgh. In 1568, the queen, who 
 had been kept prisoner in the castle of Lochleven, effect- 
 ing her escape, was joined by the Earls of Argyll, Eg- 
 linton, Cassillis, and Rothes, and others, who assembled 
 Vol. I.— 497 
 
 G L A S 
 
 an army to displace the Regent Murray, and raise her 
 to the throne. The regent, at that time employed in 
 holding a court in Glasgow, was taken by surprise ; but 
 hastily raising what forces he could, and being joined 
 by the Earls of Montrose, Mar, and Monteith, the Lords 
 Temple, Home, and Lindsay, and a number of the citi- 
 zens, he advanced to intercept the queen's party on 
 their march to Dumbarton Castle, and crossing the 
 bridge, took up a position on a hill near the village of 
 Langside, about two miles from Glasgow. A battle 
 ensued, in which the regent's forces were completely 
 victorious, leaving 300 of the queen's army dead on the 
 field, and taking 400 prisoners. The queen, during the 
 whole of the engagement, stood on a hill ; and when 
 she saw her troops defeated, mounted her horse, and 
 fled to the abbey of Dundrennan, in Galloway, a dis- 
 tance of sixty miles, without taking any rest. Murray 
 returned to Glasgow, where he offered a public thanks- 
 giving for his victory, and was sumptuously entertained 
 by the magistrates and council, through whom he ex- 
 pressed his obligation to the citizens for their bravery 
 and fidelity ; and on a representation being made to 
 him by the dean of guild, that undue exactions were 
 practised at the Mill of Partick, then the property of 
 the crown, he granted it to the corporation, with the 
 lands appertaining to it. In 1570, the castle of Glasgow 
 was assaulted by the Hamiltons and their party ; but, 
 though the governor was at that time absent, and the 
 garrison consisted of only twenty-four men, they de- 
 fended themselves with such resolution that the assailants 
 were repulsed with considerable loss ; and two days 
 after the siege. Sir William Drury, arriving with a party 
 of English, advanced to Hamilton, took the castle there 
 by storm, and in retaliation of the aggression of its pro- 
 prietors, demolished it entirely. 
 
 When the doctrines of the Reformation had made 
 considerable progress, Archbishop James Beaton, nephew 
 of Cardinal Beaton, and the last of the Roman Catholic 
 prelates of Glasgow, finding it hopeless to try to regain 
 his influence, removed the relics, plate, and ancieut 
 records, with every thing of value, from the cathedral 
 church into his castle ; and subsequently retired, in 
 1560, to France, taking with him the treasures he had 
 accumulated. After his departure, the Earl of Lennox 
 appointed a nominal archbishop, while he himself wielded 
 all the powers and appropriated all the revenues of the 
 see ; and the people, having cast off the yoke of papal 
 tyranny, vented their fury on those sacred edifices which 
 they had previously regarded with so much veneration. 
 The cathedral was stripped of its leaden roof in 1573 ; 
 and in 1579, under the sanction of the legislature, the 
 magistrates, at the solicitation of Melville, principal of 
 the college, issued a warrant for its final destruction. 
 It was, however, preserved by the resolute conduct of 
 the incorporated trades, who, when the workmen, to the 
 number of several hundreds, were summoned by beat 
 of drum to commence the task of demolition, formed 
 themselves into a body, and threatened instant death to 
 the first man that should attempt to displace a single 
 stone. So highly, indeed, were the citizens incensed at 
 this attempt to destroy the proudest ornament of the 
 city, that, had not the magistrates restrained them, they 
 would have wreaked their vengeance upon Melville and 
 all his adherents. For this insurrection, the citizens 
 were summoned by the ministers to appear before the 
 
 3 S
 
 G L A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 council at Edinburgh, where, however, the king, at that 
 time not more than thirteen years of age, expressed his 
 approbation of their conduct, and commanded the mi- 
 nisters to proceed no further in the affair, observing 
 that too many churches had already been destroyed, and 
 that he would not suffer any more abuses of the kind. 
 Some doubt, however, has been thrown upon this le- 
 gendary story of Melville's conduct with respect to the 
 cathedral, and of the exertions made by the honest crafts- 
 men of the city fur its preservation. It is said that 
 Melville may have urged that the large suras in which the 
 citizens taxed themselves for repairing their High Church, 
 might be better applied in building new churches on 
 the Genevan model ; but it is not believed that he car- 
 ried the matter so far as has been pretended. In the 
 year 15S1, the First National Covenant, which was 
 subscribed by James VI. and his household, and after- 
 wards by all ranks in the kingdom, was subscribed by 
 2'250 persons in Glasgow. 
 
 From 1600 to 1725. 
 
 In 1603, the pestilence made great ravages in the 
 city. The prison of the Tolbooth was erected the same 
 year; and in the year following, some regulations re- 
 specting precedency among the several trades were laid 
 down, which were confirmed by the king and parliament 
 in I6l2, under the designation of the letter of guildry. 
 In 1613, regular bills of mortality were first ordered 
 to be kept. In 1622, the church of the Black Friars 
 was erected on ground given by the college, who assigned 
 their right of patronage to the magistrates and council ; 
 and in 1636, the town-hall (adjoining the Tolbooth) and 
 the meal-market were built. A royal charter was ob- 
 tained this year for the appointment of a water-bailie, 
 with jurisdiction extending from Glasgow to the mouth 
 of the Clyde, about twenty-six miles below the town. 
 In 1638 assembled the famous synod which declared 
 episcopacy null and void. In 1649, Glasgow was visited 
 with pestilence and famine ; and in 1652, a destructive 
 fire broke out on the east side of the High-street, which, 
 communicating with the Saltmarket, spread to the op- 
 posite side of the street, and extending to the Trougate, 
 Gallowgate, and Bridgegate streets, destroyed nearly one- 
 third of the city, the loss being estimated at £100,000. 
 
 In 1650, Oliver Cromwell, having gained posses- 
 sion of Edinburgh, advanced to Glasgow, and took up 
 his abode at Silver-Craigs House, on the east side of 
 the Saltmarket, where he held his levees. Understand- 
 ing that Patrick Gillespie, minister of the Outer High 
 church, had the chief influence in ecclesiastical afTairs, 
 he invited him to a conference ; and on the following 
 Sunday, he went in state to the cathedral, when Mr. 
 James Durham, or, as some allege, the well-known Za- 
 chary Boyd, being appointed to preach, took occasion in 
 his sermon to inveigh against the conduct of Cromwell 
 as an enemy to the true faith. In the same year the 
 presbytery of Glasgow issued an edict, requiring every 
 minister to appropriate a certain portion of his stipend 
 towards the raising and maintenance of a regiment of 
 horse, for the protection of the Church, and the defence 
 of the country from the invasion of the sectarians. The 
 regiment was well appointed, but was so governed as to 
 promote only the interests of Cromwell, who in 1658 
 addressed a letter to the provost, requesting that the 
 498 
 
 election of the magistrates might be deferred. In 1660, 
 the restoration of Charles II. was celebrated, agreeably 
 to the order of the session, by a public thanksgiving ; 
 but on the attempt, soon afterwards, to introduce epis- 
 copacy into Scotland, the citizens strenuously opposed 
 the king's mandate. On the refusal both of the clergy 
 and laity to comply, the Earl of Middleton, with a com- 
 mittee of the privy council, came to Glasgow, and having 
 assembled in the college, the earl informed the com- 
 mittee that the archbishop desired the royal order to be 
 enforced, to which the whole meeting acquiesced, with 
 the exception of Lord Lee, who declared that such a 
 course would desolate the country. It was, nevertheless, 
 carried into effect, and in one day 400 ministers were 
 expelled from their churches : the citizens of Glasgow, 
 who were chiefly Covenanters, suffered great persecu- 
 tion ; and in 1666 several of them were hanged in the 
 streets for refusing to embrace episcopacy. In 1677, a 
 second conflagration broke out, and destroyed 130 houses, 
 upon which occasion the citizens burst open the gaol, 
 and, on the alleged plea of preserving life, liberated the 
 prisoners, most of whom were confined on a charge of 
 nonconformity. Notwithstanding these severe calamities, 
 the city appears to have made a steady progress in im- 
 portance, and in 1695, under an act of general assess- 
 ment, was returned as the second place in Scotland in 
 point of wealth and prosperity. The election of the ma- 
 gistrates, however, seems to have been completely under 
 the control of the government : in 1681, it was deferred 
 because the Duke of York had not decided with respect 
 to the individuals to be selected ; and after he had left 
 the town, and an election had taken place which was 
 not conformable to his wishes, the privy council ordered 
 a new choice to be made, and many of the town coun- 
 cillors were removed from office. In 1 689, the magis- 
 trates and council were appointed by the concurrent 
 votes of all the burgesses ; and in 1690, Glasgow was 
 created a free burgh by charter of William and Mary, 
 and invested with privileges equal to those of Edinburgh, 
 or any royal burgh within the kingdom, and which they 
 have ever since retained. 
 
 Towards the middle of the seventeenth century, the 
 inhabitants began to display a spirit of active enterprise 
 in trade and commerce ; and having a very insufficient 
 depth of water in their old port of Broomielaw, which 
 was accessible only to small craft, they took measures 
 for the construction of a new harbour, nearer the mouth 
 of the Clyde. For this purpose they proposed to form 
 a port at Dumbarton; but being opposed in their de- 
 sign by the magistrates of that place, they fixed upon a 
 site on the opposite bank of the river, and in 1662 pur- 
 chased thirteen acres of land from Sir Robert Maxwell, 
 near the village of Newark, about nineteen miles below 
 Glasgow. Here, having laid out the plan of a town, 
 they constructed the first dry-dock in Scotland ; and in 
 1714, having obtained from the presbytery a separation 
 of the lands from the parish of Kilmalcolm, they erected 
 them into the present parish of Port-Glasgow, of which 
 the patronage was vested in the City. On the union 
 of the two kingdoms in 1*07, the people of Glasgow 
 showed such hostility to the measure, and manifested 
 such a disposition to break out into open violence, that 
 the magistrates found it necessary to prohibit the meet- 
 ing of more than three persons tc%ether in the streets, 
 after sunset. The population at that time was about
 
 G L A S 
 
 GL AS 
 
 14,000 ; trade and commerce were but in their infancy ; 
 and so little affluence prevailed, even among the higher 
 classes of the citizens, that the members of parliament 
 received payment for attending the sessions. In 1712, 
 an inundation of the Clyde, during which the water rose 
 eighteen feet six inches above its ordinary level, did 
 much damage in the lower parts of the town. In 1*15, 
 when the rebellion under the Earl of Mar broke out, 
 the citizens, at their own expense, raised a regiment of 
 600 men, which, led by the provost, marched to Stir- 
 ling, and joined the king's forces ; and in order to pro- 
 tect themselves from the depredations of the rebels, the 
 inhabitants intrenched the town with a ditch, twelve 
 feet broad and six feet deep. An imposition of two pence 
 Scotch upon each pint of ale sold within the burgh was 
 granted to the magistrates by act of parliament, in 
 IXS'i, to enable them to improve and beautify the city ; 
 and in 1724, the town was so much enlarged that an 
 additional place of worship was found necessary, and the 
 Ramshorn church was consequently erected in the north- 
 west. 
 
 From 1725 to 1775. 
 
 In 1725, on the extension of the malt-tax to Scot- 
 land, for which measure Mr. Campbell of Shawfield, 
 member for the city, had given his vote, the inhabitants 
 were highly exasperated ; and on the 23rd June, the day 
 on which the act was to come into operation, a tumultuous 
 assembly collected in the streets, and violently obstructed 
 the excisemen in the discharge of their duty. To quell 
 this insurrection, two companies of Lord Deloraine's regi- 
 ment of foot, commanded by Captain Bushell, were sent 
 into the town, for whose accommodation the magis- 
 trates ordered the guard-house to be prepared ; but the 
 populace took forcible possession of it, and locking the 
 doors, and carrying off the keys, proceeded to Mr. Camp- 
 bell's house at Shawfield, and demolished it entirely. 
 On their return, the rioters broke open the town maga- 
 zine, and distributing the arms, formed themselves into 
 a body, and attacked the military, who, by the advice 
 of the provost, were leaving the city. After patiently 
 sustaining the assault of the rioters for some time. Cap- 
 tain Bushell ordered his party to fire, when nine of the 
 citizens were killed, and seventeen wounded ; and the 
 military, without further molestation, retired to Dum- 
 barton Castle. When this affair was reported to the 
 secretary of state. General Wade was despatched to 
 Glasgow with the remaining companies of Lord Delo- 
 raine's regiment, six troops of dragoons, a troop of Lord 
 Stair's cavalry, and a company of Highlanders under 
 the command of Captain Campbell of Lochnell. These 
 having taken possession of the town, the lord advocate 
 investigated the matter, and committed nineteen of the 
 rioters to prison, to be conveyed on the following day 
 to Edinburgh by Captain Bushell, who had returned 
 with his two companies of foot from Dumbarton. It 
 appearing also, in the course of the inquiry, that the 
 magistrates had countenanced the rioters in the de- 
 struction of Mr. Campbell's house, as well as in their 
 attack on the military, the provost and others were 
 committed to the Tolbooth ; and the lord advocate re- 
 fusing to accept of bail, they were placed under a guard 
 of the Royal Scotch dragoons, and sent as prisoners to 
 Edinburgh Castle. Application, however, being made 
 499 
 
 to the lords justiciary to accept of bail, the provost and 
 the other magistrates were liberated on the 29th of July, 
 and, on their return to Glasgow, were met on the road 
 by '200 of the inhabitants on horseback, and brought 
 into the city in triumph. Captain Bushell was tried for 
 the "murder" of the nine citizens upon whom he ordered 
 his party to fire, and found guilty, but was afterwards 
 pardoned. 
 
 In the rebellion of 1745, the citizens showed their 
 attachment to the reigning family by raising two batta- 
 lions, of 600 men each, for the service of government, 
 one of which was engaged in the battle of Falkirk, and 
 signalized itself for its intrepidity. The rebels, exas- 
 perated by this display of loyalty, resolved to retaliate 
 upon the citizens, by plundering and setting fire to the 
 town, from which they were diverted only by the influ- 
 ence of Cameron of Lochiel, who threatened, if they 
 persisted in that determination, to withdraw his clan 
 from their party. On the 14th of September, the ma- 
 gistrates received a letter from the Young Pretender, 
 demanding from the corporation the payment of £15,000 
 sterling, with all arrears of taxes that might be then 
 due to government, and a supply of arms and ammu- 
 nition ; but expecting to be relieved by the forces of 
 Sir John Cope, then on their march to the north, the 
 magistrates refused compliance. After the unfavourable 
 result of Cope's expedition, however, they deemed it 
 prudent to comply with a second demand made by a 
 Mr. John Hay (attended by a company of horse and the 
 chief of the M'^Gregor clan), who, having authority to 
 mitigate the sum if he judged it expedient, effected a 
 compromise by receiving £5000 in money and £500 in 
 goods. On the return of the rebel army from England, 
 another claim was made for 12,000 linen shirts, 6000 
 cloth coats, 6000 pairs of shoes, 6OOO pairs of hose, and 
 6000 bonnets, to which the magistrates were compelled 
 to yield. These supplies, together with the previous 
 payments, and the expense of maintaining the two bat- 
 talions they had raised, cost the city £14,000, of which, 
 on application to the government, they received £10,000 
 in 1749. 
 
 In the course of the year 1749 the first local bank 
 was established in the city, under the title of the Ship 
 Banking Company; and in 1752, the first theatre was 
 built, in Castle-street. In 1755, the merchants of Glas- 
 gow, with a view of extending their commerce, and 
 opening a more direct communication with the continent 
 of Europe, projected the construction of a canal from 
 the river Clyde to the river Forth, which was afterwards 
 carried into effect upon an enlarged scale, under an act 
 of parliament, by John Smeaton, the skilful engineer. 
 A collateral branch from the same to the city of Glasgow, 
 and also a cut. from the port of Borrowstounness to join 
 the canal near the Firth of Forth, were proposed about 
 the same time ; but the latter of these was never com- 
 pleted. An elegant bridge was erected over the Clyde, 
 near the old bridge built by Bishop Raye, which, since 
 the introduction of wheel-carriages, had been found 
 inconveniently narrow ; and in 1770 an act of parlia- 
 ment was obtained for deepening the river from Dum- 
 buck ford to Glasgow, by which an additional depth of 
 seven feet was gained at the quay of Broomielaw. A 
 navigable canal, also, was cut from the high ground 
 above the cathedral to the parish of Monkland, in order 
 to reduce the price of coal. 
 
 3 S 2
 
 G L AS 
 
 G L A S 
 
 From ITTo to the present time. 
 
 The trade of the port, from the time of the Union, had 
 been making gradual but steady progress, and in 1775 
 imployed more than 60,000 tons of shipping in the im- 
 portation of merchandise, chiefly from America : in the 
 single article of tobacco, the annual import averaged 
 .T/.l'tS hogsheads. Upon the breaking out of the Ame- 
 rican war, however, the trade of Glasgow received a 
 very severe check. On this occasion, the city raised a 
 corps of 1000 men, well appointed, for the service of 
 government ; and the merchants at the same time fitted 
 out fourteen privateers, of twelve and twenty-two guns 
 and 1000 men, which, in the course of the war, were of 
 great service in driving off the privateers of the enemy, 
 and protecting the trade of the coast. In 1779, on a 
 motion being made for bringing into parliament a bill 
 to repeal the penal statutes against Roman Catholics, 
 about ^2,000 of the inhabitants formed themselves into 
 societies for opposing the contemplated measure. The 
 minds of the populace were so inflamed, indeed, that on 
 the ^'Znd of October, a mob assembled during divine 
 service, and proceeding to a Roman Catholic chapel in 
 High-street, scattered the congregation, destroyed the 
 paintings and ornaments round the altar, and svere 
 only restrained from the entire demolition of the build- 
 ing by the arrival of the magistrates, with a competent 
 force, to disperse them. Meeting a second time, they 
 pulled down the warehouse of a Roman Catholic in 
 King-street, and on being compelled by the magistrates 
 and a party of the military to retire, they hastened to 
 his dwelling-house, which they burnt, with all the fur- 
 niture. The introduction of a bill into parliament, 
 soon afterwards, for taking the duty off French cam- 
 bric, also e.xcited great discontent ; and a large body of 
 weavers in the town, and from the adjacent villages, 
 paraded the streets on horseback, with an effigy of the 
 minister who proposed the bill, which effigy they first 
 hanged, and afterwards burut in the market-place : the 
 bill was subsequently withdrawn. From the commence- 
 ment of the war with America, the attention of the citi- 
 zens had been more particularly directed to the increase 
 of manufactures ; and the population having been con- 
 sequently augmented, the first stone of a new church, 
 St. Enoch's, was laid on the 12th of April, IfSO. In the 
 following year, the Tontine Buildings and Coffee-rooms 
 were erected, to the great ornament of the city. 
 
 In 17H2, another inundation of the Clyde took place 
 on the 11th and 12th of March, after an almost unin- 
 terrupted fall of snow and rain for several days. The 
 waters, on the 11th, spread over the Green, stopped all 
 communication by the bridges, and flooded the Bridge- 
 gate-street to the depth of several feet : during the 
 night, the flood increased, and after extinguishing the 
 fires on the ground floors of the houses, ascended to the 
 bedrooms of the inhabitants. On the following morn- 
 ing, however, the waters began to decrease ; and inter- 
 course with the houses was maintained by boats, which 
 supplied the inmates with food and other necessaries. 
 Upon the 1.3th, the river assumed the ordinary level. 
 So extensive was the inundation in the town and neigh- 
 bourhood, that the village of Gorbals appeared as an 
 island m the midst of the sea ; and the rapidity of the 
 current was so great that apprehensions were entertained 
 500 
 
 for the safety of the bridges. This calamity was fol- 
 lowed, during the same year, by a general failure of the 
 crops, and a consequent dearth of provisions, under 
 which the sufferings of the inhabitants were alleviated 
 by the exertions of the magistrates, who offered a bounty 
 upon all provisions brought into the town ; while va- 
 rious wealthy individuals combined together, and pur- 
 chasing large quantities of supplies of every kind, sold 
 them at a very considerable rate below the prime cost. 
 In 17^7, a spirit of discontent, which had for some time 
 prevailed amon^ the journeymen weavers, broke out into 
 open violence ; and a mob, assembling, and demanding 
 an increase of wages, which was not granted, proceeded 
 to cut down the webs from the looms of such as were 
 willing to work at the previous prices ; destroyed the 
 property of the master weavers, cleared out the goods 
 from their warehouses, and burnt them in the streets. 
 To quell these outrages, the magistrates, with a party of 
 peace-officers, advanced to Calton ; but they were over- 
 powered, and compelled to retire ; and it was not till 
 they had obtained a detachment of the 39th regiment, 
 commanded by Lieut. -Col. Kellet, that they were en- 
 abled to disperse the rioters. On approaching them for 
 this purpose, the military were assailed with stones, 
 brickbats, and other missiles ; but after the magistrates 
 bad read the Riot act, and strenuously exhorted the 
 people to desist, the soldiers were ordered to fire, three 
 of the ringleaders were killed, and several of the rioters 
 wounded, upon which the mob thought proper to return 
 to their homes. 
 
 After the conclusion of the American war in 1783, 
 the merchants made every exertion to revive their trade, 
 and established a chamber of commerce and manufac- 
 tures, which was afterwards incorporated by royal char- 
 ter. Encouraged by the increasing prosperity, the ma- 
 gistrates let out the Ramshoru lands, to the north of the 
 town, on building leases, binding the lessees to erect 
 their buildings according to an improved plan, laying 
 out the ground in regularly-formed streets and squares ; 
 and consequently, upon a site of considerable extent, 
 formerly occupied as orchards and gardens, stately 
 ranges of buildings have been raised, which, in beauty 
 and magnificence of appearance, are almost unrivalled 
 by those of any city in the kingdom. In the year 1790, 
 the canal joining the Forth and Clyde, which had been 
 commenced in 1768, was completed ; and on the 29th 
 of June, the communication was opened by Archibald 
 Speirs, Esq., of Elderslie, chairman of the committee of 
 management, who, with the assistance of the principal 
 engineer, poured a hogshead of water, brought from the 
 river Forth by the canal, into the Clyde, in commemo- 
 ration of the union of the eastern and western seas. In 
 1793, the Laigh or Tron church was destroyed by an 
 accidental fire, which broke out in the session-house ad- 
 joining ; and the records of the general session were all 
 burnt. In the following year, a scheme was projected 
 for letting the lands appertaining to Hutcheson's hos- 
 pital on building leases, and the plan of a village, to be 
 called Hutchesoiitun, was prepared : the foundation stone 
 of a new bridge was laid by the lord provost and magis- 
 trates ; and the Glasgow infirmary, the foundation of 
 which had been laid two years before, was opened for 
 the reception of patients. In 1795, the citizens, to 
 counteract the menaced attempts of the abettors of the 
 French revolution, enrolled themselves into two corps of
 
 G L A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 volunteers for the protection of the city, and the defence 
 of their coast, under the sanction of parliament. On 
 the 18th of November, 1795, a third inundation of the 
 Clyde did much damage to the lower parts of the town : 
 about the middle of the day, the current was so impe- 
 tuous that it shook the piers of the newly-erected bridge, 
 causing two of the arches to fall into the river ; and in 
 the course of the afternoon, the three remaining arches 
 also fell. In 1797, the Royal Glasgow volunteers in- 
 creased their numbers to ten companies; and a second 
 battalion of 500 men was formed, whose services were 
 accepted by government, and who were placed under 
 the command of officers appointed by the lord lieute- 
 nant of the county : two troops of volunteer cavalry were 
 also raised, for additional security. In August 1822, 
 when George IV. visited Scotland, the lord provost and 
 magistrates, vvith the corporation and deputations from 
 the merchants' and trades' houses, went in public pro- 
 cession to Edinburgh, and presented loyal addresses to 
 His Majesty. In 1832, the cholera raged in the city, 
 with great violence, from the 12th of February till the 
 1 1th of November, during which period there were 6208 
 patients, of whom 3005 died. 
 
 One of the most interesting events of recent date, in 
 connexion with the city, was, the visit of Her present 
 Majesty to Glasgow, in 1849. After the Queen's visit 
 to her Irish dominions, the royal squadron crossed over 
 to the Scottish coast on the 12th of August, and an- 
 chored for the night in Loch Ryan : the next day the 
 squadron proceeded to the Clyde, and on Tuesday morn- 
 ing, August 14th, Her Majesty arrived at Glasgow a 
 little before noon, having been greeted in her passage up 
 the Clyde with the warmest demonstrations of hearty 
 and delighted loyalty. On the Queen's arrival, the lord 
 provost presented an address from the corporation, and 
 received on board the honour of knighthood. Deputa- 
 tions from the county magistrates and other bodies were 
 severally introduced, for the purpose of presenting ad- 
 dresses ; and immediately afterwards Her Majesty, in 
 company with Prince Albert and the royal children, pro- 
 ceeded to visit the cathedral and the college, receiving 
 in her progress through the vast and orderly assemblage 
 the most enthusiastic plaudits. Shortly after two o'clock, 
 the royal party arrived at the terminus of the Edin- 
 burgh and Glasgow railway, where refreshments had 
 been provided for the distinguished visiters. A special 
 train then conveyed Her Majesty, the prince, and suite, 
 to Perth, where the royal party passed the night ; and 
 on Wednesday, the 15th of August, Her Majesty arrived 
 at her Highland residence of Balmoral, in Aberdeen- 
 shire. 
 
 Description of the City. 
 
 Glasgow is built on the north bank of the river Clyde, 
 which in this part of its course flows nearly from east 
 to west, through a level tract of fertile land abounding 
 with mineral wealth. At some distance from the shore, 
 the ground has a gradual ascent for nearly half a mile, 
 terminating in a ridge of considerable elevation, on the 
 summit and declivities of which, towards the north-east, 
 the more ancient part of the town is chiefly situated. 
 Two extensive and spacious lines of street pass through 
 the whole of the city, intersecting each other at the 
 Cross. Of these, the principal line, consisting of the 
 501 
 
 Gallowgate, Trongate, and Argyll streets, reaches more 
 than a mile and a half in a direction from east to west, 
 and is about eighty-three feet in average breadth ; while 
 the other, intersecting the city from north to south, and 
 comprising the High-street and the Saltmarket- street, is 
 above three-quarters of a mile in length and about fifty- 
 four feet wide. Parallel with the former of the two 
 great lines are Bell, Wilson, Ingram, Cochrane, George, 
 Duke, and Clyde streets ; and parallel with the latter of 
 the two lines are King, Candleriggs, Brunswick, Hutche- 
 son, Stockwell, Glassford, Dunlop, Miller, Queen, Bu- 
 chanan, Maxwell, and Jamaica streets, the last of which 
 is the great thoroughfare to the quays at the Broomielaw. 
 Near the southern extremity of the Saltmarket-street is 
 Bridgegate-street, diverging obliquely to the south-west, 
 and once forming the principal avenue from the old 
 bridge into the city. To the north-east of George and 
 Duke streets, and almost in a line with each other, are 
 Rotten-row and Drygate-street, the latter of which was 
 the chief street of the ancient town. North of High- 
 street, on a triangular plot of ground formerly the site 
 of the episcopal palace, is the Royal Infirmary, nearly 
 opposite to which, on the west, was the hospital of St. 
 Nicholas ; and on the banks of the Molendinar rivulet, 
 to the east, stands the venerable cathedral. Eastward of 
 the Saltmarket-street is St. Andrew's street, conducting 
 into St. Andrew's square, a handsome range of build- 
 ings, in the centre of which is the church dedicated to 
 that saint ; and further to the north and east are Lou- 
 don and Great Hamilton streets. South of Argyll-street 
 is St. Enoch's square, on the south side of which is the 
 church of St. Enoch, and on the east Surgeons' Hall ; 
 and to the north-west of the same street is St. George's, 
 the most spacious square of the city, and in which the 
 houses are large and of elegant appearance. In the last- 
 named square are, a bronze statue of Lieutenant-General 
 Sir John Moore, who was a native of Glasgow, erected 
 at a cost of £4000 ; a statue, by Chantrey, of the great 
 improver of the steam-engine, James Watt; and a Doric 
 column to the memory of Sir Walter Scott. There are 
 some remains of ancient mansions identified with events 
 of importance in Scottish history, and of those which 
 are still entire the principal is the house near the 
 northern extremity of High-street, where Lord Daruley, 
 the husband of Mary, Queen of Scots, resided during 
 his illness. Opposite the east end of Bridgegate-street, 
 in Saltmarket, till lately stood Silver-Craigs House, 
 where Oliver Cromwell took up his abode, and held his 
 levees, after the battle of Dunbar. 
 
 As viewed from the Cross, the city has a striking 
 character of magnificence and grandeur, combining views 
 of the Trongate, Argyll, and Gallowgate streets ; the 
 Tontine-buildings, in front of which is an equestrian 
 statue, in bronze, of King William HI., presented by 
 James Macrae, Esq., in 1735; and part of the High- 
 street, on the east side of which are the stately edifice 
 of the university, and the elegant structure of the Hun- 
 terian Museum. The houses are spacious and hand- 
 some, built of freestone, and roofed with slate; and 
 those in the streets diverging from the Cross were once, 
 for some length, embellished with piazzas of the Doric 
 order. Many of the houses consist of tenements under 
 the same roof, called flats, each of which is inhabited by 
 a separate family ; those built on the lands of Blyths- 
 wood, to the west of the city, are mostly constructed
 
 GL A S 
 
 GL AS 
 
 upon a plan adapted for one family only. The streets 
 are all well paved, the carriage-ways with whinstone, 
 and the foot-paths with flags. The city is lighted with 
 GAS, partly from works erected by a company incorpo- 
 rated by act of parliament in 1817, and whose capital, 
 originally £40,000, has been augmented to £150,000. 
 The company's works, which are upon a very extensive 
 scale, occupy an area 125 yards in length and nearly of 
 equal breadth ; and connected with them are several 
 subsidiary establishments in different parts of the town. 
 The gas is purified with lime, and afterwards with a 
 solution of sulphate of iron. It is conducted to the 
 houses of the inhabitants by cast-iron pipes, laid under 
 the foot-paths on both sides of the street : the aggre- 
 gate length of the pipes is 110 miles ; and in the pro- 
 duction of the gas requisite, not less than 9000 tons of 
 coal are annually consumed. In 1843 a new company 
 was established, called the City and Suburban Gas Com- 
 pany, for the purpose of affording an additional supply 
 of gas, for the greatly extended and rapidly increasing 
 population and manufactures of the city. The works 
 are situated in the eastern district of the town ; they 
 occupy five acres of ground, and contain 250 retorts, 
 twelve dry lime purifiers, and three large telescope gas- 
 holders, capable of storing 800,000 cubic feet of gas. 
 Upwards of 110 miles of pipes, varying from one to 
 twenty-four inches in diameter, were laid down within 
 the city and suburbs, in the course of the two first years 
 of the company's existence. The capital of the company 
 is £150,000, divided into shares of £10 each. The in- 
 habitants are furnished with water by the united Glas- 
 gow and Cranston-Hill Water Companies, of which the 
 former was incorporated in 1806, and the latter in 
 1808 : the works were originally constructed at an ex- 
 pense of £320,000, and have been since considerably 
 enlarged. Previously to its distribution to the houses, 
 the water is made to pass through a natural filter of 
 sand ; and it is thence conveyed by pipes, laid under 
 the carriage-way of the streets. In 1846 an act was 
 passed to enable the company to introduce an additional 
 supply of water. 
 
 The public green, a beautiful and important appen- 
 dage to the city, to which it is conjectured to have im- 
 parted its name, is situated to the south-east, on the 
 north bank of the Clyde, and comprises about 136 acres. 
 It has been greatly improved, at a cost of more than 
 £50,000, and laid out as a park, with pleasure-grounds, 
 and serpentine gravel-walks amidst shrubberies and 
 plantations embellished with stately timber. The whole 
 forms a delightful promenade for the inhabitants ; and 
 there is a carriage drive, two miles and a half in extent, 
 through a rich variety of beautiful scenery, commanding 
 extensive and interesting views of the river, the city 
 with its cathedral and lofty spires, the suburbs, the ad- 
 jacent hills, and many other pleasing features. At the 
 western end of the High-green is a handsome obelisk, 
 erected by subscription of the citizens, at an expense of 
 £20*5, in honour of Lord Nelson ; the first stone was 
 laid on the 1st of August, 1806, the anniversary of the 
 battle of the Nile. On the margin of the river, at the 
 southern extremity of the Green, is a lodge belonging 
 to the Royal Humane Society, replete with all the requi- 
 site apparatus for the restoration of suspended anima- 
 tion from drowning, and where officers are in constant 
 attendance. The suburbs are extensive : the ancient 
 502 
 
 Gorbals, now much enlarged, is situated upon the south 
 
 of the Clyde, communicating with the city by the old 
 bridge. On the same side of the river, to the west, are 
 Hutchesonton and Tradeston ; the former connected 
 with the city by a stone bridge of five arches, erected in 
 1834, at an expense of £22,440 ; and the latter by the 
 Glasgow bridge, a handsome structure of granite, of 
 seven arches, 500 feet long and fifty feet wide within 
 the parapets, forming the chief entrance to the city 
 from the south : this bridge was completed by the late 
 Mr. Telford, in 1836, at a cost of £34,427. In 1845 an 
 act was passed for consolidating the management of the 
 bridges over the Clyde at Glasgow; for rebuilding the 
 old bridge ; and for erecting an iron bridge for foot pas- 
 sengers, on the wooden bridge opposite to Portland- 
 street of Laurieston being taken down. In 1848 an act 
 was obtained by the Caledonian railway company, for 
 the extension of their line across the river. North of 
 the Clyde are Bridgeton, Calton, Grahamston, Anders- 
 ton, and Finnieston, all of which are described under 
 their respective heads, as are also Gorbals, Hutcheson- 
 ton, Laurieston, &c. Near the east end of the Gallow- 
 gate-street are the Infantry Barracks, erected in 1/95, 
 and inclosing a quadrangular area of about four acres, 
 of which three sides are occupied with buildings, and 
 the fourth by an iron palisade. The central range com- 
 prises the officers' apartments and mess-room, and the 
 wings seventy- two apartments, each adapted for four- 
 teen men. The area affords an extensive ground for 
 parade, and contains a guard house, magazine, infirmary, 
 and other offices. 
 
 Literary and Scientific Institutions, and Places 
 OF Amusement. 
 
 The first circulating library was established by Mr. 
 John Smith, in 1753, and at present contains about 
 20,000 volumes. Another, founded in 1807, and pur- 
 chased in 1811 by Messrs. Potter and Company, has a 
 collection of nearly 18,000 volumes. The Public Sub- 
 scription Library was instituted in 1791, by Walter Stir- 
 ling, Esq., who bequeathed his mansion in Miller-street, 
 with the whole of his library, his share in the Tontine 
 Buildings, and £1000 in money, in trust to the lord pro- 
 vost, and others chosen from the town council, the 
 merchants' house, the presbytery of Glasgow, and the 
 faculty of surgeons and physicians, for its establishment. 
 Though originally intended for the gratuitous use of the 
 citizens, it is supported, and has been greatly extended, 
 by subscriptions gradually augmented from three to ten 
 guineas, paid by each member on admission, and which 
 entitles Inim to the benefit of it for life. It contains 
 10,000 volumes, which are kept in the hall of Hutche- 
 son's hospital. The Glasgow Public Library was esta- 
 blished in 1804, by a society of gentlemen, who placed 
 it under the management of a committee, nine curators, 
 a treasurer, secretary, and librarian ; it has a collection 
 of 4000 volumes, and is supported by an annual sub- 
 scription of ten shillings, and a payment of twelve shil- 
 lings on entrance. 
 
 Surgeons' Hall, on the east side of St. Enoch's square, 
 is a good building of the Ionic order, erected in 1/91, 
 for the use of the faculty of surgeons and physicians : 
 the front is decorated with a range of Ionic pilasters, 
 supporting an entablature and cornice, surmounted with
 
 GL A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 an attic and open balustrade. The interior contains tlie 
 hall for the faculty, which is a spacious room, adorned 
 with a painting of Hygeia the goddess of health, and 
 other allegorical devices ; a library ; committee-roonns ; 
 and various oflices. In the lobby are several old portraits, 
 among which are those of Galen, Hippocrates, and other 
 fathers of medicine ; and on the right hand is the en- 
 trance into the library. Two societies hold their meetings 
 here, namely, the Glasgow Medical Society and the Medico- 
 Chirurgical Society, the former of which meets on the 
 first and third Tuesdays of every month from October 
 to May inclusive, when essays are read, confined to 
 medicine or one of the sciences immediately connected 
 with it. The object of the latter society is, to receive 
 communications on medicine and surgery, and the colla- 
 teral sciences, to converse on medical topics, and to pro- 
 mote professional improvement. The Philosophical So- 
 ciety, established in 1802, for the diffusion of knowledge 
 by reading essays on philosophical subjects, and exhi- 
 biting models for the improvement of machinery, is 
 under the control of a president, vice-president, and 
 council of twelve, with a treasurer, secretary, and libra- 
 rian ; and is supported by subscriptions of fifteen shillings 
 annually, and a payment of one guinea on admission. 
 The Mechanics' Institution was founded in 1823, for the 
 promotion of the arts and sciences, by the delivery of 
 lectures in natural philosophy, chemistry, and other 
 subjects ; and in 1 83 1 a commodious building was erected 
 for that purpose in Hanover-street, on the pediment of 
 which is a colossal statue of James Watt. The edifice 
 contains apartments for the models and apparatus, a 
 theatre for the lectures, and a library consisting of more 
 than 3000 volumes. The funds arise from annual sub- 
 scriptions of the students, the average number of whom 
 is about 500. The Alheneum was recently established, 
 on the plan of that of Manchester. The Literary and 
 Commercial Society met in the college as early as 1795, 
 and is believed to have been founded by Dr. Adam Smith : 
 its meetings are now held in the Black Bull hotel. The 
 Maitland Club, similar in its design to the Bannatyne 
 Club of Edinburgh and the Roxburghe Club of London, 
 has been established within the last few years, for re- 
 printing scarce and valuable books, and printing curious 
 and important manuscripts, illustrative of the history, 
 literature, and antiquities of Scotland. There are also 
 one or two statistical societies. 
 
 The Assembly Rooms, in Ingram-street, were erected 
 in 1796, after a design by Messrs. Adam, by Tontine 
 subscription, in shares of £20 each. The building is an 
 elegant specimen of the Ionic order, rising from a rusti- 
 cated basement. It is divided in front, into three com- 
 partments, by two boldly-projecting central portions, 
 between which is the central window, and two less pro- 
 minent projections at the extremities ; and is embellished 
 with pillars supporting an entablature and cornice, sur- 
 mounted by an open balustrade. The interior contains 
 the assembly room, eighty feet long, thirty-five feet wide, 
 and twenty-seven feet high, elegantly fitted up, and 
 brilliantly lighted ; a card room ; retiring and supper 
 rooms of similar character ; and various other apart- 
 ments. Theatrical performances, previously to the erec- 
 tion of a theatre, took place, under the Edinburgh com- 
 pany, in a temporary booth near the bishop's palace : in 
 1764, a regular theatre was built, and opened by Mr. 
 Bellamy, on the west side and near the south end of 
 503 
 
 Alston-street ; but on the first night, some disorderly 
 persons set fire to the scenery and machinery. The 
 stage was refitted ; but the subsequent performances 
 never received any adequate patronage, and in 1782 the 
 structure ceased to be used as a theatre. In that year, 
 a theatre which had been erected in Dunlop-street was 
 opened by Mrs. Siddons, Mrs. Jordan, and others ; and 
 the taste for the drama began to increase, which, in 
 1805, led to the erection of a splendid building in Queen- 
 street, at an expense of £18,500 raised by subscription. 
 This edifice, however, was burnt down in 1829 ; and the 
 former building in Dunlop-street was consequently en- 
 larged and embellished by Mr. Alexander, and continued 
 to be used until 1839, when it was pulled down, and a 
 larger and more elegant structure erected in its stead, 
 which was burnt down in November 1845. The Adelphi 
 theatre, on the Green, was built in 1844, and destroyed 
 by fire in November 1848: it was the first erected in 
 Scotland after the passing of the new licensing act, and 
 accommodated nearly 2000 persons. The (old) Botanic 
 Gardens originated in the want of such an appendage to 
 the university, and were formed in 1830, by a proprietary 
 of £10 shareholders, incorporated under the designation 
 of the Botanic Garden Institution, who purchased for 
 that purpose eight acres of ground near the reservoir of 
 the Cranston-hill water-works. In consideration of the 
 viniversity having bought shares to the amount of £2000, 
 their professor of botany was invested with the exclusive 
 privilege of delivering lectures in the hall of the institu- 
 tion. This land near the reservoir, however, has been 
 sold, and a new garden of twenty-one acres formed on 
 the banks of the Kelvin, two miles off. It occupies a 
 fine elevated situation, sloping down on the north to the 
 waters of the Kelvin, whilst, on the south, the New 
 Observatory stands out a conspicuous object, on a green 
 swelling elevation of considerable height. The stock of 
 the society exceeds £10,000 ; and the gardens, which 
 contain a very extensive assortment of rare and valuable 
 plants from almost every part of the world, are under 
 the direction of a president, vice-president, and a com- 
 mittee of nine of the proprietors. The Public Baths were 
 erected in 1800, by Mr. William Harley, in Bath-street, 
 at the eastern extremity of Nile-street ; they comprise 
 hot and cold baths, with dressing-rooms and every re- 
 quisite. The Victoria Baths, in West Nile-street, are of 
 recent erection, and well conducted by a joint-stock com- 
 pany. 
 
 Trade and Commerce. 
 
 The first branch of trade pursued by the inhabitants 
 was the curing of salmon taken in the Clyde, of which 
 they exported great quantities to France and Holland, 
 receiving thence in return brandy, wines, and salt ; and 
 towards the commencement of the seventeenth century, 
 they embarked largely in the herring-fisheries, in which 
 they carried on a very extensive trade, in vessels of their 
 own, and for the protection of which, in the reign of 
 Charles II., they fitted out a privateer of considerable 
 force. About this time, likewise, they imported much 
 iron from the Baltic ; and after the union of the two 
 kingdoms, which opened to them the markets of America 
 and the West Indies, they appear to have imbibed such 
 a spirit of commercial enterprize as laid the foundation 
 of their future wealth. They exported, in English ves-
 
 G L A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 sels, various goods for the supply of those colonies, from 
 which they obtained in return large quantities of tobacco. 
 The increasing success with which this traffic was car- 
 ried on, soon enabled them to build and maintain vessels 
 of their own; and in 1718, the first of these ships left 
 Glasgow for America. So very great, indeed, was the 
 prosperity attending their colonial relations, that it at 
 length excited the jealousy of the English merchants ; 
 and after numerous vexatious obstructions opposed by 
 Bristol, London, Whitehaven, and other rival ports, the 
 trade gradually diminished, and in 1/35 almost declined. 
 It, however, revived soon after, though not to its former 
 extent, and continued by degrees, and slowly, to augment, 
 till the breaking out of the American war, which involved 
 many of the principal merchants in ruinous losses. But 
 the spirit of enterprise which had been so powerfully 
 e.xcited, though damped by these disasters, was not ex- 
 tinguished ; the people of Glasgow found other sources 
 of trade in the West Indies, and on the continent of 
 Europe; and in 1*90, there were 4*6 ships, of the 
 aggregate burthen of 46,581 tons, employed in the busi- 
 ness of the port. Owing to the shallowness of water in 
 the Clyde, however, these ships sailed from Port-Glasgow 
 and Greenock, the goods being transmitted to and from 
 Glasgow by small craft. 
 
 The introduction of manufactures has afforded to 
 the inhabitants of Glasgow a permanent source of in- 
 creasing prosperity. Of these, the earliest appear to 
 have been those of plaiding, soap, ropes, and the refining 
 of sugar, of which, however, the first only was carried on 
 to any considerable extent : the tanning of leather has 
 been pursued from an early date ; and the Glasgow 
 Tan-work Company, founded soon after the Union, had 
 very extensive premises at the head of the Gallowgate. 
 Breweries, too, on a large scale, were established by 
 several companies at a distant period. The manufacture 
 of linen, lawns, cambrics, and similar articles, was begun 
 about 1/25, and continued for some time to be the sta- 
 ple trade of the city and neighbourhood ; and though 
 almost superseded by the cotton manufacture, it is still 
 pursued to a tolerable extent. The weaving of inkle 
 was established in 1*32, by Mr. Alexander Harvie, of 
 Glasgow, who, at imminent risk, brought over the first 
 loom for that purpose from Haerlera, together with 
 some workmen, and opened a factory here : this branch 
 of manufacture was subsequently introduced into Man- 
 chester and other towns in England, but it is yet 
 carried on here upon a large scale. The manufacture 
 of delft-ware in imitation of the Dutch, in which many 
 improvements have been made, and of the various 
 kinds of pottery and earthenware, is also considerable ; 
 and the snuff manufacture, which, while the tobacco 
 trade with America lasted, was very extensive, is still 
 successfully prosecuted. The founding of types, and 
 the art of printing, have been brought to great perfec- 
 tion ; and handsome editions of the Greek and Roman 
 classics, and other standard works, have issued from the 
 press of Glasgow. The manufacture of green and flint 
 glass ware has made considerable progress ; and large ale 
 and porter breweries have been established. 
 
 The COTTON manufacture, which is the staple trade 
 of the town and its vicinity, was introduced at no dis- 
 tant period, and has been extremely rapid in its ad- 
 vance. Several large factories, bleaching-grounds, and 
 printfields, for which the situation of Glasgow, the purity 
 504 
 
 of the water of the Clyde, and the abundant supply of 
 coal in the immediate neighbourhood, rendered the place 
 highly favourable, were soon established; and in 1791, 
 not less than 15,000 looms, each employing nine persons, 
 were in active operation. The introduction of this 
 manufacture and the several trades connected with it, 
 gave rise to the invention of machinery of all kinds ; and 
 the improvements in the construction of the steam- 
 engine, which appear to have been carried to their height 
 under the direction of the celebrated Mr. Watt, of this 
 place, and subsequently of the Soho works, near Bir- 
 mingham, have increased this important branch of trade 
 to an extent almost incredible. There are at present in 
 Glasgow and its suburbs as many as fifty cotton-mills, 
 in which are more than 500,000 spindles ; two of these 
 mills are fire-proof, and the cost of their erection and 
 machinery exceeded £32,000 each. The number of 
 looms is 47,127, of which 15,127 are steam-looms, 18,537 
 hand-looms in the city and suburbs, and the rest hand- 
 looms in other parts for the Glasgow manufacturers. If 
 the whole cotton-factories in the immediate neighbour- 
 hood of Glasgow are included, the number of spindles 
 now at work amounts to 784,756; the estimated value 
 of the factories is £784,756, the number of workers 
 employed 7847, and taking the wages at from eight to 
 nine shiUings a week, which is the average, the sum paid 
 to these workers weekly amounts to from £3138 to 
 £3531. Within the same limits, the number of steam- 
 looms amounts to 17,620; the estimated value of the 
 factories, to 264,300 ; and the number of persons em- 
 ployed, to 11,200: the average wages being from eight 
 to nine shillings per week, the amount paid to these 
 steam-loom workers weekly is from £4480 to £5040. 
 The steam-engines employed for working the foregoing 
 machinery are nominally equal to 3705-horse power, 
 but their real working power is considerably greater. 
 Besides the spinning and weaving of cotton, the staple 
 manufactures of Glasgow, silk has also become an exten- 
 sive article of commerce and manufacture : this material, 
 and various rich foreign wools, are now woven into cot- 
 ton fabrics with the most complete success. 
 
 The printing of calico, in which considerable improve- 
 ment has been made by the use of the cylinder, is carried 
 on very extensively ; and the art of dyeing Turkey red, 
 which was introduced about the beginning of the pre- 
 sent century by M. Papillon, in conjunction with Mr. 
 George Macintosh, who first erected works for that 
 object, has been practised with increased advantage. 
 The printing of Bandana handkerchiefs, begun by Messrs. 
 Monteith and Company, has been also brought to great 
 perfection. The weaving of Cashmere shawls has been 
 much improved by Messrs. Houldsworth and Sons, of 
 this place, who, having purchased from Captain Coch- 
 rane his patent for the spinning of Cashmere wool, the 
 secret of which had been discovered in France, esta- 
 blished a factory here for that purpose with the greatest 
 success. This firm likewise directed its attention to 
 the art of spinning Merino yarn, also discovered by 
 Captain Cochrane, and for which the Board of Arts 
 awarded him a premium of £300 ; and the merinos 
 produced in the factory of Messrs. Houldsworth are 
 equal in softness and quality to those of France. The 
 woollen manufacture is almost confined to the coarser 
 kinds of cloth, and carpets and blankets, made from 
 native wool, which is not adapted for articles of finer
 
 G L A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 texture. The manufacture of steam-engines, and of the 
 various kinds of machinery, is carried on to a very great 
 extent : there are not less than fourteen establishments, 
 in one of which, alone, about 1000 persons are constantly 
 employed. Another great source of employment is the 
 coal trade, which is carried on to an enormous extent 
 in the neighbourhood of Glasgow, chiefly for home con- 
 sumption, though a considerable exportation takes place: 
 in 1S31, about .560,000 tons passed into and through 
 the city, whereof 124,000 were exported, principally 
 coastwise ; since which there has been a very large in- 
 crease. The number of steam-engines in the different 
 factories of the city and suburbs is estimated at more 
 than 350, including those in the collieries and similar 
 works. 
 
 From the peculiarly advantageous situation of Glas- 
 gow on the Clyde, and in a spacious district abounding 
 with coal and ironstone of rich quality, the iron ma- 
 nufacture has naturally become an important source 
 of wealth. In the works for this purpose, material 
 improvement has been affected, both in the quality of 
 the iron and in the facility of obtaining it, by the use 
 of the patent "hot blast", invented by Mr. Neilson in 
 1824, and which, by conveying a stream of hot air to 
 the blast furnaces, has been found to increase the in- 
 tensity of heat in the fires to an extraordinary degree. 
 And not merely is a greater quantity of iron of better 
 quality thus produced, in less time; but also, by al- 
 lowing of the substitution of coal in the place of coke, 
 previously used, the amount of fuel has been reduced to 
 three-sevenths of what was necessary by the cold blast 
 process. Nor is it only in the making of iron that this 
 invention has proved profitable : in the foundry and in 
 the forge, the, advantage of its adoption is likewise strik- 
 ingly apparent. There are now nine iron-foundries in 
 the city and suburbs. In the Clyde works, which con- 
 sist of four furnaces, about 20,000 tons of iron are pro- 
 duced annually, on an average. In the Govan works, 
 to the south and in the immediate neighbourhood of 
 Glasgow, are five furnaces in blast, producing rather 
 more than 26,000 tons of pig-iron annually. 
 
 Extensive chemical- works were established in the 
 district of St. Rollox, in 1800, by Messrs. Tennant, Knox, 
 and Company, for the manufacture of sulphuric acid, 
 chloride of lime, soda, and other articles. The buildings 
 of this concern occupy an area of nearly 28,000 square 
 yards, and contain more than 100 furnaces, retorts, and 
 other apparatus ; the vessels of platina alone are valued 
 at £7000, and in the various processes 600 tons of coal 
 are consumed weekly. Among the numerous chimneys 
 of the establishment is one ,500 feet in height from its 
 base. The manufacture of acetate of lead, previously 
 imported from Holland, and of which large quantities 
 are used in calico-printing, was established at Glasgow 
 in 1786, by Mr. Charles Macintosh, and carried on to 
 such an extent that great quantities of it were exported to 
 the very place from which the mode of preparing it had 
 been originally obtained. Mr. Macintosh also effected 
 improvements in the dyeing of fancy muslins, and the pre- 
 paration of chloride of lime, in powder, for the purpose 
 of bleaching. In 1808, he established extensive alum- 
 works at Hurlet and Campsie ; commenced the manu- 
 facture of Prussian blue, and the triple prussiate of potash 
 as a substitute for indigo ; and introduced the process 
 of rendering silk and woollen stuff's waterproof by the 
 Vol. I.— 505 
 
 insertion, between two surfaces, of a layer of caoutchouc, 
 made liquid by solution in naphtha. The same gentleman 
 invented a process for converting iron into steel, by in- 
 closing it in air-tight vessels, and subjecting it to the 
 action of rarburetted hydrogen gas. For these inven- 
 tions and discoveries he was, in 1823, elected a fellow of 
 the Royal Society of London. The distilling of whisky 
 is comparatively of recent introduction ; the first esta- 
 blishment of any magnitude was in the year 1786, and 
 since that period no very great increase seems to have 
 taken place. 
 
 The trade of the port is principally with America, 
 the West Indies, and the continent of Europe ; also to 
 the East Indies, and China, the Mediterranean, Aus- 
 tralia, and, in short, to all places of any consequence in 
 the known world. In the year 1814, the quantity of 
 sugar imported into the ports of the Clyde from the 
 West Indies, was 540,198 cwt, of rum 1,251,092 gallons, 
 and of cotton wool 6,530,177 lb. ; exclusively of large 
 quantities of grain, hemp, tallow, and timber from the 
 Baltic. The exports, chiefly manufactured goods, during 
 the same year, amounted to £4,016,181. The number 
 of ships that entered inwards was 448, of the aggregate 
 burthen of 72,219 tons; and the number that cleared 
 outwards, during that year, was 592, of 94,350 tons. 
 Since this time, the Clyde trustees have been most suc- 
 cessful in improving the navigation of the river ; and 
 instead of the coal gabberts of from 20 to 50 tons' bur- 
 then, the largest vessels that could visit Glasgow at the 
 beginning of the present century, vessels of above 700 
 tons are now at the harbour, drawing seventeen feet 
 water, besides many more of from 300 to 500 tons. 
 Among the numerous steam- vessels which regularly 
 visit the harbour, may be mentioned the .-^(/miru/ steam- 
 ship, built at Port-Glasgow in 1840, of 930 tons (total 
 tonnage), drawing 11 feet water; and the Achilles, of 
 992 tons, the length of this latter vessel over all being 
 220 feet. There are 61 steam-vessels belonging to capi- 
 talists in Glasgow, registering 11,016 tons, exclusive of 
 space occupied by the engines, and propelled by 8704- 
 horse power. Several of these vessels register above 600 
 tons, use engines of above 400-horse power, and are 
 capable of being armed with one long gun of the longest 
 calibre, and fourteen 24-pound carronades. A very 
 considerable trade is carried on at Glasgow in timber ; 
 the firm of Messrs. Pollock, Gilmour, and Company hold 
 thirty-nine ships, registering 26,980 tons, navigated by 
 1300 seamen, and chiefly employed in importing wood. 
 The first ship engaged in the China free trade was con- 
 signed to Mr. William Mathieson, of this city ; and her 
 cargo of teas was disposed of in the sale-room of the 
 Royal Exchange, at a remunerating price, on the 14th 
 of November, 1834. 
 
 In 1840 the number of vessels that entered the port 
 of Glasgow was 16,486, of the aggregate burthen of 
 1,166,329 tons : the vessels employed in foreign trade, 
 direct to Glasgow, amounted in the year 1844 to 316, 
 registering 58,816 tons ; while the vessels that cleared 
 out for foreign ports amounted to 442, registering 83,62 1 
 tons. The number of registered vessels belonging to the 
 port, in 1847, was 519, of 137,533 aggregate tonnage. 
 In 1812, the customs yielded only £3124; in 1814, 
 £7420; in 1817, £8290; in 1820, £11,000; in 1.S22, 
 £16,148; in 1824, £29,926 ; in 1825, £41,154 ; in 1828, 
 £74,255; in 1833, £97,042; in 1834, £166,913; in 
 
 3 T
 
 G L A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 1 835, £2/0,667 ; in 1837, £389,702 ; in 1S44, £551,851 ; 
 in 1847, £659,835 ; and in 1850, £640,568. From this 
 statement, some notion may be gained as to the great 
 and progressive advances of the commerce of this city ; 
 but it must be observed that the increase is not solely 
 to be attributed to an augmented trade, but partly to 
 the circumstance of numbers of ships now being able, 
 from a greater depth of water, to proceed to the Broomie- 
 law at Glasgow and pay duties there, instead of at 
 Greenock on the Firth of Clyde. The tonnage and har- 
 bour dues have also progressively increased : in 1771, 
 they amounted to £1071 ; in 1791, to £2145 ; in 1804, 
 to £4760 ; in 1825, to £8480 ; in 1826, to £16,200 ; in 
 1835, to £31,900 ; in 1841, to about £48,000 ; and in 
 1850, to £64,243. 
 
 The HARBOUR, as already stated, has been greatly 
 improved and extended, and, by the deepening of the 
 river, been rendered accessible to vessels of more than 
 700 tons : the quay reaches for upwards of 3000 yards 
 in length on the north, and upvvards of 2000 yards on 
 the south, side of the river; while the width of the har- 
 bour, at Glasgow bridge, is 440 feet. There are spacious 
 warehouses for the reception of merchandise, with every 
 requisite for facilitating the trade of the port. Six 
 dredging-machines, with powerful steam apparatus and 
 two diving-bells, are kept for clearing the river from 
 obstructions ; and si.\ powerful cranes have been erected, 
 one of which, constructed by Messrs. Claud Girwood and 
 Company, is capable of raising a weight of thirty-two 
 tons, while another, on the south side of the river, made 
 by Mr. Caird of Greenock, can raise forty-five tons at a 
 time. In 1846 an act was passed authorizing the con- 
 struction of a wet-dock or tidal basin, with additional 
 wharfs and other works. Since the deepening of the 
 Clyde, ship-building has been introduced, and is now- 
 carried on with success ; yards for that purpose have 
 been constructed, and vessels of 1000 tons' measurement 
 are now built here, both for the royal navy and for the 
 merchants' service. 
 
 The art of propelling vessels by steam appears to 
 have been first brought into actual use at this place, by 
 Mr. Henry Bell, who, having constructed a steam-engine 
 of three-horse power, employed Messrs. Wood and Com- 
 pany, of Port-Glasgow, to built a boat for him, which 
 was the first steamer that sailed on any navigable river 
 in Europe. This vessel, which was called the Comet, 
 began to ply on the 18th of January, 1812, between 
 Glasgow and Greenock, performing the voyage at the 
 rate of five miles per hour, which was subsequently in- 
 creased, the vessel being altered and enlarged. Since 
 that time, steam navigation has of course been much 
 encouraged. The number of steamers employed at the 
 port, in a late year, was sixty-seven, of which eighteen 
 plied between this place and the ports of Liverpool, 
 Belfast, Dublin, and Londonderry, and eleven between 
 Stranraer and the Western Highlands, for goods and 
 passengers ; twenty-six for passengers only, in the river 
 and Firth of Clyde ; eight for luggage ; and four for 
 towing vessels. At the present time the number of 
 steamers is still larger. The boats of more recent con- 
 struction are elegantly fitted up for passengers, and their 
 speed is greatly increased. A fine iron-built screw 
 steam-ship, called the City of Glasgow, and intended to ply 
 between Glasgow and New York, was launched in the 
 year 1850. 
 506 
 
 Canals and Railways. 
 
 The Forth and Clyde Canal, already referred to, and 
 which, for want of funds, had been suspended in 1775, 
 was resumed in 1784, when government granted £50,000 
 from the forfeited estates, towards its completion, which 
 was effected in 1790. This important work is nearly 
 thirty-five miles in length, of which sixteen miles are on 
 the summit level, having an elevation of 156 feet above 
 the sea : the ascent to this level, from the eastern sea, 
 is obtained by twenty, and from the western sea by 
 nineteen, locks. The average width of the canal is 
 fitty-six feet on the surface, and twenty-eight at the 
 bed ; and the average depth ten feet. By the opening 
 of this line of navigation, the distance by water is dimi- 
 nished 800 or 1000 nautical miles, and the passage 
 rendered vastly more safe. In its progress the canal 
 crosses the rivers Luggie and Kelvin, and is conveyed 
 over the latter, and the valley in which the river flows, 
 by a bridge of four lofty arches, erected at an expense 
 of £8509. It is supplied by eight capacious reservoirs, 
 covering more than 720 acres of ground. Several iron 
 steam tug boats, and swift passage boats drawn by 
 horses, leave Port-Dundas at Glasgow, and return, daily ; 
 the concern is in a very flourishing state, and in 1844 
 as many as 598,333 tons of goods were carried. During 
 the suspension of this undertaking, the city completed 
 a collateral cut to Hamilton hill, about a mile to the 
 north of Glasgow, which was subsequently extended to 
 Port-Dundas, and which, affording a more ready com- 
 munication than was previously possessed, greatly in- 
 creased the facilities of commerce. In 1845 an act was 
 passed for forming a junction between the Forth and 
 Clyde navigation and the Edinburgh and Glasgow Union 
 Canal. The Monkland Canal, begun in 1770, and con- 
 necting the town with the collieries in the parishes of 
 Old and New Monkland, is about twelve miles in length, 
 thirty-five feet wide at the surface and twenty-four at 
 its bed, and about five feet in average depth. It attains 
 its summit level at Blackhill, and is thence continued to 
 Sheepford, where are two locks, by means of which it 
 communicates wMth the river Calder. An act was passed 
 in 1846 authorizing the sale of this canal to the pro- 
 prietors of the Forth and Clyde navigation. The Glas- 
 goiv. Paisley, and Ardrossan Canal was commenced in 
 1807, and the part between Glasgow and Johnstone was 
 opened in 181 1. The projected line, from Port-Eglinton 
 to the harbour at Ardrossan, was thirty-five miles and 
 three-quarters ; but nothing has been done since the 
 completion of the Johnstone portion, and the distance 
 does not, therefore, exceed eleven miles. The canal is 
 thirty feet wide at the surface and eighteen feet at the 
 bed, and the average depth four feet six inches ; near 
 Johnstone it has eight locks, and there are numerous 
 boats employed in carrying heavy goods, but now no 
 passage boats. 
 
 Great facility of intercourse in every direction is 
 afforded by the lines of the Caledonian, the Edinburgh 
 and Glasgow, and the Glasgow and Ayrshire railway 
 companies, which are three of the six principal railway 
 companies in Scotland. The acts of parliament, how- 
 ever, that have been obtained by these companies are so 
 numerous, and the arrangements successively made are 
 now of so little general interest, that it may sufiice to
 
 GL A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 state in few words the means of communication which 
 each company affords, in respect to Glasgow. The Catc- 
 (tonkin Railwaij connects the city with the counties of 
 Lanark and Dumfries, through which it passes to Car- 
 hsle in England ; being a means of uniting the two 
 countries, like the North-British railway from Edin- 
 burgh to Berwick-upon-Tweed, which runs along the east 
 coast. With the Caledonian railway are amalgamated 
 the Glasgow, Paisley, and Greenock railway, and other 
 lines. The Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway connects the 
 two cities from which it takes its name. It passes 
 through the counties of Lanark, Dumbarton, Stirling, 
 Linlithgow, and Edinburgh ; and at Castlecary, fifteen 
 miles and a half distant from Glasgow, forms a junction 
 with the Scottish Central railway to Perth, from which 
 city there is railway communication to Dundee, Arbroath, 
 Montrose, and Aberdeen. By the Glasgow and AyrsluTe 
 Railway, facility of intercourse is maintained with Paisley, 
 Kilmarnock, Ayr, and other places ; and at Kilmarnock 
 commences the Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle line of 
 railway, now in progress in connexion with the Glasgow 
 and Ayrshire railway company, and part of which is 
 already opened. To each of these three great railways 
 there belong various subordinate lines, either by purchase 
 or lease. The railway stations in the city form one of the 
 most remarkable features of recent date in Glasgow. 
 
 Public Buildings connected with Trade, &c. 
 
 The Town-hall and old Royal Exchange, in Trongate- 
 street, erected in 1636, and greatly improved in 1740, 
 for the accommodation of the merchants of the city, is 
 an elegant structure, with a piazza of the Doric order 
 facing Trongate, having the keystones of the arches orna- 
 mented with grotesque heads well sculptured. Above the 
 piazza rises the chief story, embellished with pillars of 
 the Ionic order, supporting a handsome entablature and 
 cornice surmounted by an open balustrade enriched with 
 pilasters crowned by vases. The principal, or Town, 
 hall, which is used for public meetings of the inhabitants 
 under the sanction of the magistrates, is fifty-four feet 
 in length and twenty-seven feet wide, with a coved ceil- 
 ing twenty- four feet high. Its walls are decorated with 
 trophies, and full-length portraits of James VI., Charles 
 I. and II., James II., William III. and his queen Mary, 
 Queen Anne, George I., II., and III., and of Archibald, 
 Duke of Argyll, in his robes as lord justice-general : 
 over the mantel- piece is a bust, in bronze, of George III. ; 
 and at the east end of the hall, a statue, in marble, of 
 William Pitt, by Flaxman. To the west of the old 
 Exchange, in the same building, were the old assembly- 
 rooms, a handsome suite, elegantly fitted up. The chief 
 room is forty-seven feet long, twenty-four feet wide, and 
 twenty-four feet high ; and its walls are adorned with 
 fluted Corinthian colun^.ns, sustaining an enriched ceil- 
 ing, from which are suspended three brilliant chande- 
 liers of cut glass. This room is now the principal hall 
 of the Tontine hotel. 
 
 The New Exchange, a spacious edifice at the west end 
 of the old part of the city, was erected about twenty 
 years ago, and for the beauty of its design is not sur- 
 passed l)y any structure in the kingdom : on each side, 
 also, lofty and handsome buildings have been raised to 
 form a suitable square. This su|)erb pile, which cost 
 £60,000, is wholly in the Grecian style of architecture, 
 507 
 
 and is entered by a noble portico, surmounted by a 
 lantern tower. The great room measures 130 feet in 
 length, sixty feet in breadth, and thirty feet in height in 
 the centre, and is supported on each side by pillars of 
 the Corinthian order. Close to the New Exchange, and 
 in the eastern part of the square, is an equestrian statue 
 of the Duke of Wellington, the inauguration of which 
 took place on October 8th, 1844 ; it was raised by the 
 munificence of the inhabitants, and forms a noble monu- 
 ment of the skill of Marochetti the sculptor. On one 
 side of the pedestal is represented, in bas-relief, the 
 victory of Assaye ; on the opposite side is depicted that 
 of Waterloo ; and the two remaining sides are occupied 
 by representations of the Soldier's Return and the peace- 
 ful pursuits of Agriculture. The Custom- House, formerly 
 in St. Enoch's square, is now at the west end of Great 
 Clyde-street, in the immediate neighbourhood of the 
 harbour : the building was erected by the crown in 1839, 
 at an expense of about £13,000, and is in the Grecian- 
 Doric style of architecture. 
 
 The Tontine Coffee-rooms and Hotel form a hand- 
 some edifice, erected in 1781. Of these buildings, the 
 coffee-room is seventy-four feet long, and of propor- 
 tionate width and height : at the north end, which is 
 circular, is a spacious window, divided by Doric columns 
 into compartments, within which are seats for the sub- 
 scribers ; and the room, which is amply supplied with 
 Scotch, English, and Irish newspapers, and periodical 
 publications of every kind, is lighted by richly-cut glass 
 chandeliers. The principal entrance, which is from the 
 piazza, leads into a vestibule whose lofty roof is sus- 
 tained by pillars of the Doric order, with corresponding 
 pilasters in the walls. The reading-room is supported 
 by an annual subscription of £1. 1'2., but is open to 
 strangers gratuitously for a limited time. In the hotel are 
 numerous suites of apartments, elegantly furnished, and 
 replete with every accommodation. There are various 
 banking establishments, of which the principal are, 
 branches of the Bank of Scotland, the British Linen 
 Company, and the Commercial, National, and Royal 
 Banks of Scotland ; the City of Glasgow Bank ; and the 
 Clydesdale, Glasgow Joint- Stock, and Glasgow Union 
 Companies. Some of the buildings for these banks are 
 of very handsome design. The Post-office is in Glassford- 
 street, where a building formerly occupied as warehouses 
 is fitted up for the accommodation of the public. 
 
 The market, which is abundantly supplied with pro- 
 visions of all kinds, is on Wednesday. Fairs are held 
 annually on the second Wednesday in January, the 
 Thursday before Easter, the ^6th of May or on the 
 Monday following, the first Monday after Whitsunday, 
 the second Monday in July, and on the Wednesday 
 after Martinmas. The Corn Exchange, in Hope- 
 street, was completed and opened for the use of the 
 corn merchants in November 184'2. It is a handsome 
 quadrangular structure of stone, erected under the 
 superintendence of Messrs. Brown and Carrick, by a 
 proprietary of £U0 shareholders. The exterior is re- 
 lieved by a range of circular-headed windows : in the 
 centre of the principal front, at the entrance from Hope- 
 street, is a beautiful portico of Corinthian columns, 
 twenty-five feet high, supporting an entablature and 
 pediment ; and the walls all round are crowned with an 
 open balustrade. The interior contains a hall for the 
 meeting of the merchants, eighty feet in length and fifty- 
 
 3 T 2
 
 G L A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 seven wide, lighted by cupolas formed in the compart- 
 ments of the ceiling, which is twenty-two feet high, and 
 by a magnificent lantern in the centre, fifty feet long 
 and thirty feet wide, sustained on eight fluted columns 
 of the Corinthian order. Around the hall are ranged 
 thirty-six stalls, let to tenants at a rent of £10 per annum, 
 and so contrived as to aiford every facility of carrying 
 on the business of the market : imdcrneath the hall is a 
 store, capable of containing SOO tons of grain. 
 
 There are markets for butchers' meat and fish in King- 
 street, the former 112 feet long and fifty-seven feet 
 wide, and the latter 173 feet by forty-six : the area, 
 which is inclosed with walls, and has several handsome 
 entrance-gateways, is subdivided into stalls, and paved 
 with freestone; the benches for the fish are covered with 
 lead, and each stall has a separate water-pipe. The 
 market for beef, in Bell-street, is of plainer character. 
 Although these markets are still continued, butchers' 
 meat and fish are chiefly sold in shops in various parts 
 of the town. The vegetable and green market formerly 
 occupied the site of the ancient Wynd church ; the 
 butter, cheese, poultry, and egg market, once in Mon- 
 trose-street, has been removed to the Bowling-green 
 (now the Bazaar) in Candleriggs-street, covering 2411 
 square yards. To the south of Bridgegate-street is the 
 slaughter-house, a large building, erected in 1810, and 
 occupying 4/36 square yards ; it contains seventy-seven 
 separate killing-rooms, two cattle-yards, and two alleys 
 leading to the killing-rooms, along the whole of which 
 are placed pipes for conveying water, with copious sewers 
 to carry off the offensive matter. The cattle-market, 
 erected in 1818, between the roads leading to Edinburgh 
 by the Gallowgate and Duke streets, is a spacious area 
 containing 29,560 square yards, paved with stone, and 
 inclosed with walls. It has a good inn, with stabling, 
 and affords accommodation for the display of 120 o.xen 
 and nearly 10,000 sheep ; the market is well attended by 
 dealers from distant places, and occasionally cattle and 
 pigs are sent from Ireland for sale. At the east end of 
 Ingram-street is the Tron or weigh house, a large build- 
 ing which is also used as a storehouse. An act of parlia- 
 ment entitled '" Glasgow markets and slaughter-houses" 
 was passed in the session of 1850. 
 
 Municipal Affairs. 
 
 The city of Glasgow, though declared to be a free 
 burgh by charter of William the Lion, still exercised the 
 privileges conferred upon it solely under the influence 
 and control of the bishops and archbishops of the see, 
 in favour of whom, indeed, the charter was especially 
 granted. Even after it was erected into a burgh of re- 
 gality by James II., the citizens continued to be governed 
 by bailies appointed by the bishops, who generally se- 
 lected the most powerful among the nobility of the king- 
 dom to fill that office, which eventually became hereditary 
 in the family of the Dukes of Lennox. After the resig- 
 nation of this power by one of the dukes, the choice of 
 the magistrates was regularly made by the crown till the 
 year I6ll,when, by an ample charter bestowed by James 
 VI., confirming all former gifts, the burgesses were vested 
 with the liberty of electing their own magistrates. This 
 charter was ratified and extended by Charles I., and 
 afterwards confirmed by charter of Charles II. ; and in 
 1690, by charter of William III., the citizens received all 
 50S 
 
 the privileges of a royal burgh, with rights and immu- 
 nities as full and free as those of Edinburgh. L'nder 
 this charter, as subsequently explained by usage since 
 the Union, and as lately modified by the Municipal Re- 
 form act, the government of the city is vested in a lord 
 provost, five bailies, a bailie of the river Clyde, a trea- 
 surer, a dean of guild elected by the Merchants' House, 
 a deacon-convener elected by the Trades' House, and 
 twenty-two other councillors; assisted by assessors and 
 town-clerks, a chamberlain and superintendent of works, 
 and other officers. The council consists altogether of 
 thirty-two members. It was formerly chosen by the 
 corporation, but, since the passing of the Municipal act, 
 has been chosen by the £10 householders within the 
 burgh. Both the provost and treasurer continue in office 
 for three years, and the third of the council who have 
 been longest in office retire annually, in November : the 
 chamberlain is appointed by the magistrates and council 
 during pleasure, but is generally continued for life; the 
 town-clerks, also, hold their office ad vitam aut culpam. 
 The corporation are patrons of all the parish churches 
 within the royalty, except the Inner High church ; they 
 have also the patronage of the Grammar or High School, 
 and the right of presentation to several bursaries, or 
 scholarships, in the university. The jurisdiction of the 
 magistrates extends over the ancient royalty, the lands 
 of Ramshorn, with other parts of the Barony parish, and 
 the lands of Blythswood ; they are also superiors of 
 Gorbals. 
 
 The city is divided into five wards, each of which 
 chooses six of the town-councillors ; and the inhabitants 
 have the power, on certain payments, of joining either 
 of two classes, the merchants and the tradesmen. Each 
 of these has a separate House, and their interests are 
 respectively under the superintendence of a dean of guild 
 and a deacon-convener, who, as has been already stated, 
 are both members of the town council. There are four- 
 teen minor incorporations of trades, which, as settled 
 by the letter of guildry, take precedence as follows : the 
 hammermen, tailors, cordiners, maltmen, weavers, bax- 
 ters, skinners, wrights, coopers, fleshers, masons, gar- 
 deners, barbers, and bonnet-makers. These minor in- 
 corporations constitute the Trades' House. The origin 
 of the Merchants' House is involved in some obscurity : 
 it appears, prior to 174", to have consisted wholly of the 
 burgesses who followed the occupation of merchants ; 
 but by an act of the House in that year, the corporation 
 was thrown open to all traders within the city, whether 
 natives or foreigners, wholesale or retail dealers, of fair 
 character, who should pay a subscription of four shil- 
 lings annually, and a fine of five shillings on admission, 
 which latter sum has been subsequently raised to ten 
 guineas. This House is under the superintendence of 
 the dean of guild, who has power to compel such of the 
 iuhabitants as are not freemen, and exercise the privileges 
 of the city, to enter themselves as burgesses, and to pay 
 the fine or entrance money. Most of the minor incor- 
 porations are possessed of property to a considerable 
 amount, and contribute largely to the support of chari- 
 table institutions. The town-corporation revenue, in 
 1848- 9, was £20,247. 
 
 The magistrates exercise both civil and criminal juris- 
 diction within the burgh, the former to an unlimited 
 amount in personal actions, and the latter extending to 
 all offences not capital, or punishable by transportation.
 
 G L A S 
 
 GL A S 
 
 A court is held every other Thursday before the dean of 
 guild and his council, consisting of eight members, four 
 from the Merchants' and four from the Trades' House. 
 It grants warrants for the erection or repair of buildings 
 in the public thoroughfares, which cannot be commenced 
 without its order ; also for the removal of obstructions 
 and nuisances ; and in this court, prosecutions are insti- 
 tuted against such as trade in the city without having 
 obtained their freedom. The business is conducted by 
 the town-clerks, who act as assessors. The Water- 
 Bailie's court is held on stated days, for civil and crimi- 
 nal business; and in all cases above the amount of ten 
 shillings, the proceedings are in writing ; the causes are 
 decided by the town-clerks, as assessors ; and the juris- 
 diction of the court extends from the port to the Cloch 
 lighthouse, about twenty-five miles below Glasgow, for all 
 oflFences committed on the river or in the harbour. The 
 Police establishment is managed, in a very effective man- 
 ner, by a board elected from the wards into which the 
 city is divided, the magistrates being members of the 
 board ex officio. 
 
 Among the edifices connected with municipal affairs, 
 one of the most prominent is that designated the City 
 and County Buildings, a structure in the Ionic style, 
 erected in 1843, in Wilson-street, extending a consider- 
 able way up Brunswick-street on the east, and Hutche- 
 son-street on the west. An elegant hall is fitted up in 
 that portion of the building fronting Wilson-street, for 
 the meetings of the town-council ; and fronting Hutche- 
 son-street is the burgh court hall, in which the dean-of- 
 guild court and the small-debt court are held : the offices 
 of the city chamberlain and town-clerks are also on this 
 side of the building, and that portion of it fronting 
 Brunswick-street is occupied by the sheriff's chambers, 
 and various offices connected with the county. 
 
 The old Merchants' House, on the south side of Bridge- 
 gate-street, was erected in 1659. Its lofty tower, of 
 three stages rising from each other in diminished pro- 
 portions, terminates in a pyramidal spire, surmounted 
 by a vane representing a ship in full sail, and having an 
 elevation of 164 feet from the base. The interior of the 
 building contained a spacious hall, eighty feet in length 
 and thirty wide, the walls of which were hung with well- 
 painted portraits of the most munificent benefactors to 
 the poor members of the company : there were also va- 
 rious other apartments. This Hall, from its situation 
 and want of proper accommodation, having become un- 
 fit for the business of the institution, was sold, and a 
 commodious building erected in Hutcheson-street, to the 
 north of and in connexion with the City and County 
 Buildings. Six columns and four pilasters in the Gre- 
 cian style of architecture adorn the front, extending two 
 stories above the first or basement story, and surmounted 
 by a sculptured frieze and a parapet with vases. The 
 edifice was completed in 1843, and contains an elegant 
 hall seventy-five feet by thirty-five feet, with a coved ceil- 
 ing twenty-seven feet in height, embellished with Grecian 
 ornamental work : there is also a room for the directors, 
 and other apartments are occupied by persons engaged 
 in the general business of the Merchants' House. The 
 Trades' House, on the west side of Glassford-street, was 
 erected on the site of a former building, after a design 
 by Messrs. Robert and James Adam. It is a handsome 
 structure of stone, consisting of a central range and two 
 slightly-projecting wings, rising from a rusticated base- 
 509 
 
 ment. Over the entrance, in the centre of the edifice, is 
 a boldly-projecting portico of two duplicated columns of 
 the Ionic order, supporting an enriched entablature and 
 cornice, surmounted by a triangular pediment, above 
 which is an attic, with an open balustrade, having in 
 the centre a shield bearing the city arms, supported by 
 two female figures in a reclining attitude, well sculp- 
 tured. The whole is crowned by a spacious dome, rising 
 from the roof, and terminating in a cupola and lantern. 
 The hall, which is seventy feet in length, thirty-five feet 
 wide, and twenty-four feet high, is lighted in front by 
 three large Venetian windows, between which are other 
 windows of smaller dimensions, and by the lantern of 
 the dome, the interior of which is richly embellished. 
 Its walls are ornamented with pilasters of the Doric 
 order, supporting an entablature and cornice, and are 
 hung with portraits of the principal benefactors, and the 
 armorial bearings of the fourteen companies. 
 
 The old Tolbooth, to the east of the town-hall, an 
 ancient building containing the courts of justice for the 
 city and county, and also the prison for debtors and 
 malefactors, was five stories in height. It had square 
 turrets at the angles, and on the south side a boldly- 
 projecting and embattled porch, forming the principal 
 entrance, with a square tower surmounted by a spire, 
 rising from the battlements, and strengthened by flying 
 buttresses resembling an imperial crown, together XIQ 
 feet in height. In the tower, which is still preserved, is 
 an excellent clock, whereby the other clocks in the town 
 are regulated ; also a remarkably fine set of musical 
 chimes. This prison, situated in the centre of the city, 
 without court-yards, chapel, or infirmary, not containing 
 sufficient accommodation for holding the courts, and 
 having only thirty-two apartments for prisoners of every 
 description, was abandoned by the corporation, and, with 
 the exception of the tower, sold to Mr. Cleland for £8000, 
 in 1807. 
 
 The Jail and Court-Houses, erected instead of the Tol- 
 booth, in 1811, at the west end of the public green, form 
 a spacious building in the Grecian-Doric style of archi- 
 tecture, with a magnificent portico. At the time the 
 edifice was raised, the hall and other apartments in its 
 western division were considered amply sufficient for the 
 civil and criminal establishments. From the rapid in- 
 crease of population, however, it was found that the 
 business of the justiciary circuit courts was much ob- 
 structed for want of proper space, and the whole of this 
 portion of the building is now fitted up in a superior 
 manner for their better accommodation. There are 122 
 apartments for prisoners ; the prison admits of efficient 
 classification, and is furnished with water and every re- 
 quisite for cleanliness and health. Two cells, parted 
 from the rest of the jail, and so constructed as to dis- 
 pense with the use of irons, are reserved for prisoners 
 under sentence of death. The governor's house com- 
 mands a view of the several airing-yards ; the chapel is 
 seated for 200 persons, and there is an infirmary, well 
 ventilated, for the reception of the sick. The old Bride- 
 well, in Duke-street, opened in 1/98, though ill adapted 
 for classification, answered the purpose for which it was 
 erected till, from the great increase of population, it be- 
 came too small, when the authorities resolved to erect a 
 bridewell capacious enough to receive the prisoners both 
 of the city and the county, for which purpose, having 
 procured an act of parliament, they erected the present
 
 G L A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 structure, which was opened in 1824. This building, 
 adjoining the former, is not only sufficiently ample and 
 spacious, but combines all the advantages of complete 
 classification, seclusion, and security. Tlie Police Build- 
 ings, erected at an expense of £14,000, and finished in 
 January 1S26, are of a superior kind, and embrace every 
 requisite accommodation, including a court-room, nume- 
 rous cells, &c. The House of Refuge, for the reclamation 
 of juvenile offenders, was erected by subscriptions ex- 
 ceeding £10,000, on a site comprising four acres of 
 ground on the lands of White Hill ; the institution is 
 also opened to the reception of orphan boys and others 
 whose parents abandon them to vagrancy, and is con- 
 ducted on a plan combining every thing requisite for the 
 restoration of the depraved to habits of order and virtu- 
 ous industry. A similar institution, for the reception of 
 destitute young females, has also been recently erected. 
 
 Previously to the Reform act, Glasgow was united 
 with the burghs of Ruthcrglen, Renfrew, and Dumbar- 
 ton, in returning one member to the imperial parliament, 
 who was elected by the burgesses ; but, since the passing 
 of that act, the city of itself has returned two members, 
 and the right of election has been in the £ 10 householders. 
 
 The University. 
 
 The University was ori- 
 ginally founded in 1451, by 
 Bishop TurnbuU, who, under 
 the sanction of James II., 
 procured for that purpose a 
 bull from Pope Nicholas V., 
 and was appointed the first 
 regent or chancellor. With 
 the assistance of his chapter, 
 the bishop prepared a body 
 of statutes for the govern- 
 ment of the institution, 
 which was placed under the 
 superintendence of a chancellor, rector, doctors, and 
 masters of the four faculties of theology, canon law, civil 
 law, and the arts, as enumerated in the papal bull, and 
 the several professors of which had taken their degrees 
 in other universities. To encourage the professors, in 
 1453, the bishop obtained for every beneficed clergyman 
 belonging to the college, exemption from all taxes and 
 public burdens, and from residence in their respective 
 cures, provided they took care to have the religious du- 
 ties regularly performed. The rector was sole judge in 
 all civil and criminal causes in which any member of the 
 university was a party ; and the whole of the privileges 
 and exemptions were confirmed by an act of James II., 
 and renewed by succeeding sovereigns. The institution, 
 however, had no endowment ; it was supported solely 
 by the small perquisites and fees paid into the common 
 fund on the conferring of degrees, and the patronage of 
 two or three small chapelries. Moreover, there was at 
 first no building appropriated for its use, and the officers 
 held their meetings either in the chapter-house of the 
 Black Friars', or in the cathedral, till the year 1459, 
 when James, first Lord Hamilton, gave to the principal 
 and the regent of the college of arts a spacious mansion 
 in the High-street, and four acres of laud on Dow Hill. 
 
 On the Reformation, Archbishop James Beaton, who 
 was then chancellor, withdrew to France, taking with 
 510 
 
 him the plate of the cathedral, and the bulls, charters 
 and other records, both of the see and of the university 
 which he deposited partly in the convent of the Car- 
 thusian monks, and partly in the Scotch college, at 
 Paris, to be preserved till the restoration of papacy. At 
 this period, with the exception of the college of arts, 
 which was still maintained by the contributions of the 
 students, the university appears to have fallen to decay. 
 In this depressed state of its finances, Mary, Queen of 
 Scots, in 1560 granted to the college of arts the kirk 
 and manse of the Friars " Preedicatores ", with thirteen 
 acres of land, and the rents and annuities belonging to 
 that fraternity, for the foundation of five bursaries for 
 poor students ; and in 15*2, the corporation of Glasgow 
 gave for the support of the university all the lands, tene- 
 ments, and other profits and emoluments of the several 
 chapels, altarages, and prebends in the churches of the 
 city. In 1577, James VI., a minor, with consent of the 
 Earl of Morton, then regent, granted the rectory and 
 vicarage of the kirk of Govan ; and conferred also upon 
 the university a new charter of foundation, which in its 
 most essential points is still in force. From that time 
 the institution has continued to flourish. Charles I. 
 bestowed upon it all the temporalities of the bishopric of 
 Galloway ; and William III. granted £300 from the ex- 
 chequer, payable annually, for its support. In 1~02 
 the number of students amounted to 402. Queen Anne, 
 in 1708, assigned £210 per annum towards the main- 
 tenance of a professor of anatomy and botany ; and 
 succeeding sovereigns have been liberal benefactors. 
 Alexander Macfarlane, of Jamaica, who had built an 
 observatory there, at his death bequeathed the whole of 
 his astronomical apparatus to the college, on condition 
 that they should erect an observatory; and in 1*60, a 
 royal grant of £50 per annum was made in aid of the 
 support of a professor of astronomy. The university has 
 been also patronised by many distinguished individuals, 
 among whom was the late Dr. William Hunter of Lon- 
 don, who bequeathed to it the whole of his valuable col- 
 lection of specimens illustrative of natural history, medals, 
 anatomical preparations, books, and manuscripts, with 
 £8000 to erect a museum for their reception. 
 
 The affairs of the university, as at present constituted, 
 are conducted by three distinct bodies, the senate, the 
 comitia, and the faculty. The members of the senate 
 are the rector, the dean of faculties, and the professors, 
 of whom the rector is president, or, in affairs for which 
 he is competent, the dean. They hold their meetings 
 for the election and admission of the chancellor, and 
 dean of faculty, the vice-chancellor, and vice-rector ; for 
 the election of a representative in the General Assembly ; 
 for the conferring of degrees, the management of the 
 library, and other matters belonging to the university. 
 The comitia consists of the rector, the dean, the principal, 
 the professors, and the matriculated students, of whom 
 the rector, or the vice-rector, is president. The}' meet 
 for the election and admission of the rector ; for hearing 
 public disputations in the several faculties, previously to 
 the conferring of degrees ; for hearing the inaugural dis- 
 courses of the principal and professors, before admission 
 to their respective offices ; and for the promulgation of 
 the laws of the university, and other acts of the univer- 
 sity and college courts. The faculty consists of the 
 principal, and the thirteen professors of divinity, church 
 history, the oriental languages, natural philosophy, moral
 
 G L A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 philosophy, the mathematics, logic, Greek, humanity, 
 civil law, medicine, anatomy, and practical astronomy, 
 being those of the old foundation : the principal is presi- 
 dent, and has a casting, but not a deliberative, vote. 
 The members of faculty have the administration of the 
 college revenues, with the exception of a few particular 
 bequests in which the rector or other officers are ex- 
 pressly named ; also the patronage of eight professor- 
 ships, of several bursaries, and of the parish church of 
 Govan. 
 
 Of the officers of the university the principal are the 
 chancellor, vice-chancellor, rector, dean of faculties, prin- 
 cipal, the keeper of the museum, librarian, and sub- 
 librarian. The chancellor, who holds office for life, has 
 the sole privilege of conferring degrees on persons found 
 qualified by the senatus academicus. The rector is 
 elected annually, and exercises academical jurisdiction 
 among the students, and also magisterial jurisdiction in 
 matters between the students and the citizens. The 
 dean of faculty, who holds office for two years, regulates 
 the course of studies in the several faculties, and, together 
 with the rector, principal, and professors, decides upon 
 the qualification of the candidates for degrees. The 
 principal is appointed by the crown ; he is primarius 
 professor of divinity, and superintends the deportment 
 of the members of the college. There are twenty-two 
 professors in the four faculties of arts, theology, law, 
 and medicine. In the first of these are the professor- 
 ships of humanity, Greek, logic, moral philosophy, 
 natural philosophy, mathematics, practical astronomy, 
 civil-engineering, and natural history : in theology are 
 the professorships of divinity, church history, and the 
 oriental languages ; in law, the single professorship of 
 civil law ; and in the faculty of medicine, the professor- 
 ships of anatomy, the theory and practice of medicine, 
 surgery, midwifery, chemistry, botany, materia raedica, 
 the institutes of medicine, and forensic medicine. The 
 chairs of divinity, natural philosophy, moral philosophy, 
 logic, Greek, humanity, mathematics, and oriental lan- 
 guages are in the gift of the faculty, rector, and dean ; 
 the rest are presented to by the crown. There is also 
 the Waltonian lectureship of the structure, functions, 
 and diseases of the eye. Attached to the college are 
 sixty-nine bursaries, varying from £5 to £40 per annum, 
 tenable for from four to six years ; and some valuable 
 exhibitions. Of the latter the chief were founded in 
 1688, by Mr. John Snell, for the support of episcopacy 
 in Scotland, for which purpose he devised an estate near 
 Leamington in the county of Warwick, now producing 
 a rental of £1300 per annum, which is appropriated to 
 the education of ten students from Glasgow at Baliol 
 College, Oxford. The other exhibitions were founded by 
 John Warner, Bishop of Rochester, who assigned £20 
 per annum to be paid to each of four Scotch students at 
 the same college ; and this endowment is received by 
 four of the above exhibitioners, who have an income of 
 £1.50 each, instead of £130, tenable, like the other six 
 exhibitions, which remain at £130, for ten years. 
 
 The library of the university was founded in the 
 fifteenth century, and forms a very extensive collection, 
 in which are many beautiful editions of the classics. 
 Altogether it numbers about .58,000 volumes. The col- 
 lection is increased by donations, and by the purchase 
 of works with a sum granted in lieu of the privilege of 
 receiving a copy of every book published in the kingdom, 
 511 
 
 and with fees from the students, who are entitled to ad- 
 mission to the library. The botanic garden, adjoining 
 the college, was prepared for the use of the botanical 
 professor, in 1753 ; but being from various causes in- 
 adequate, the botanic gardens opened of late, as pre- 
 viously noticed, were rendered available to the purposes 
 of the university. The Hunterian Museum, consisting 
 of books, coins, paintings, anatomical preparations, &c., 
 was founded by the celebrated William Hunter, in the 
 year 1781. It is placed in an elegant structure of stone, 
 erected from a design by Mr. William Stark, after the 
 model of a Roman temple of the Doric order, and so 
 contrived that from every point of view the edifice pre- 
 sents an appearance of simple magnificence. The whole 
 collection is valued at above £100,000; the number of 
 volumes in the library is about 1 '2,000. In the building 
 is a fine statue of the distinguished James Watt, in mar- 
 ble, by Chantrey. 
 
 The BUILDINGS of the university are situated on the 
 east side of High-street, towards which is the principal 
 front, 305 feet in length ; and they extend 282 feet in 
 depth, inclosing an area of 9556 square yards, divided 
 into four courts, of which three are quadrangular ranges 
 three stories in height, and relieved with turrets and 
 other ornaments : on the east side of the western qua- 
 drangle is a lofty tower. The erections in the eastern 
 division, which had stood for more than two centuries, 
 and had become dilapidated, were partially taken down 
 and rebuilt in 1811. In the principal front are three 
 entrances, the central of which is adorned with rusti- 
 cated masonry ; and the gateway, over which are the 
 royal arms in basso-relievo, gilt, is surmounted by a bal- 
 cony supported on corbels. The east front is divided 
 into three compartments, of which the central pro- 
 jects, and is embellished with a lofty portico of four 
 massive columns of the Doric order, sustaining an en- 
 tablature and cornice, with a triangular pediment ; the 
 receding compartments have corresponding pilasters, 
 with entablature and cornice, crowned with an open 
 balustrade. This range contains the common hall, the 
 anatomical theatre, and the halls of the professors of 
 humanity, Greek, logic, chemistry, mathematics, and 
 medicine. At the southern extremity is the college 
 library, a handsome building, the front of which is en- 
 riched with Corinthian pilasters, supporting an angular 
 pediment, with niches on each side : the new library, to 
 the south of the anatomical theatre, is a building of 
 plainer character. The great hall, and the halls for the 
 several faculties, fronting the High-street, are spacious j 
 the walls are decorated with pilasters, sustaining an en- 
 riched entablature and cornice, and are hung with por- 
 traits of eminent professors and other literary characters. 
 There is a chapel, in which the professors and students 
 attend divine service, fitted up with great taste, and con- 
 taining 990 sittings. The college gardens, inclosed with 
 a high stone wall, are laid out in gravel-walks, parterres, 
 and shrubberies ; and at the extremity is Macfarlane's 
 observatory. An act was passed in 1846, enabling the 
 college to effect an exchange of the lands and buildings 
 occupied by it, for other lands and buildings more ad- 
 vantageously situated. 
 
 The Andersonian University. 
 
 This institution was founded in 1795, by Mr. John 
 Anderson, professor of natural philosophy in the uiiiver-
 
 G L A S 
 
 sity of Glasgow, who endowed it with a valuable library, 
 museum, and philosophical apparatus. It is placed un- 
 der the direction of eighty-one trustees, elected by ballot 
 from the several classes of tradesmen, agriculturists, 
 manufacturers, artists, physicians and surgeons, lawyers, 
 and divines ; and nine managers are annually chosen, 
 with a president, treasurer, and secretary. The trustees 
 appointed Dr. Garnet, professor of natural philosophy 
 and chemistry in the Royal Institution of London, as 
 principal lecturer; and he was succeeded in 1/99, by 
 the late Dr. Birkbeck, who introduced a familiar course 
 of instruction, demonstrated by experiments. In 1S2S, 
 the trustees purchased the buildings of the old city gram- 
 mar school, fronting George-street, for the permanent 
 use of the institution, and these were enlarged and 
 adapted to the purpose. They contain various class- 
 rooms, a library, museum, and a hall for the delivery of 
 lectures on the different branches of popular science, 
 natural philosophy, logic, ethics, rhetoric, mathematics, 
 modern and oriental languages, painting, drawing, medi- 
 cine, chemistry, anatomy, surgery, and midwifery, which 
 are well attended by the respective classes. 
 
 Ecclesiastical Arrangements, Churches, &c. 
 
 The ancient see of Glasgow, after the abdication of 
 Archbishop Beaton in 1560, was governed by prelates 
 appointed, at first by the Earl of Lennox, in whose 
 family the temporalities were vested, and subsequently 
 by the crown ; and from the time of the Reformation to 
 the Revolution, it was under the superintendence of 
 fourteen Protestant archbishops, of whom the last, John 
 Paterson, was consecrated in 168". There were an- 
 ciently thirty-nine prebendaries belonging to the cathe- 
 dral, all of whom had residences in its immediate vicinity ; 
 but their houses were given to various noblemen and 
 gentlemen who had influence at court, and the venerable 
 cathedral itself is said to have been preserved from 
 destruction only by the spirited resistance of the citizens, 
 already referred to. The cathedral, thus preserved at 
 the Reformation as one of the proudest ornaments of 
 the city, is a stately cruciform structure in the early 
 English style of architecture, 319 feet in length, and 
 sixty-three feet in width, with a square tower rising from 
 the intersection of the nave and transepts, surmounted 
 by a lofty spire, and with a tower also at the west end 
 of the north aisle. The nave, part of which was till 
 lately appropriated as the Outer High church, is ninety 
 feet in height, and is divided from the aisles by noble 
 ranges of clustered columns that support the roof: the 
 choir, which has been appropriated as the Inner Hit'h 
 church, is eighty-five feet in height, and of richer detail 
 than the nave, the columns that sustain the roof being 
 embellished with flowered capitals. The entrance into 
 the choir is through a fine screen of the later English 
 style ; and the west doorway into the nave, which until 
 recently was stopped up, is adorned with canopied 
 niches. Indeed, all the details of this interesting struc- 
 ture are in the best character of the pointed style. In 
 the south aisle of the nave is a sepulchral brass, the 
 only example of that kind of memorial hitherto noticed 
 in Scotland : on the stone to which the plate is attached, 
 is inscribed the date 1605. The crypt, which was for 
 more than two centuries used as the church of the 
 Barony parish, is unrivalled in elegance of design by 
 512 
 
 G L A S 
 
 that of any other cathedral in the kingdom j it is 
 well lighted, from the abrupt slope of the ground, and is 
 perhaps one of the richest specimens of the early Eng- 
 lish style in existence. The piers are of beautiful cha- 
 racter, and the groinings, which are elaborately intricate, 
 are enriched with bosses and other ornaments ; the capi- 
 tals of the piers are embellished with flowers, and the 
 doors with foliage. This portion of the ancient struc- 
 ture has been carefully cleared from the rubbish that 
 had been suffered to accumulate ; and since the comple- 
 tion of a new church in High John-street, by the corpo- 
 ration, in lieu of the Outer High church in the cathedral, 
 which had been pronounced to be deeply infected with 
 the dry rot, and consequently unsafe, the whole of the 
 nave, containing many interesting monuments and other 
 taluable details in a ruinous state from neglect, and 
 other parts of the edifice, have, under the superintendence 
 of an architect appointed by government, been renovated 
 and restored to their pristine beauty. 
 
 The city is the seat of a presbytery, including the ten 
 parishes in Glasgow, and the twelve surrounding parishes 
 of Barony, Gorbals, Rutherglen, Cumbernauld, Carmun- 
 nock, Cadder, Campsie, Govan, Kirkintilloch, Kilsyth, 
 Cathcart, and Eaglesham. The parish of the Inner High 
 church, originally the parish of Glasgow, but now only 
 about 1000 acres in extent, is principally occupied by 
 buildings, the rural districts not containing more than 
 100 persons out of a population of 15,444. The mi- 
 nister's stipend is about £350, with a glebe which is 
 let for building, and produces a net rental of £138. 5. 
 per annum ; patron, the Crown. The church, as already 
 stated, is the choir of the cathedral ; it was repaired in 
 1805, and contains 1143 sittings. A room was fitted 
 up in the Caledonian pottery for divine service, which 
 was regularly performed by a minister of the Establish- 
 ment from 1S35 until 1838; and a missionary also offi- 
 ciated at two preaching stations within the parish. The 
 parish of the Outer High church, or the parish of St. Paul, 
 containing a population of 9583, was erected in 164S, 
 out of the original parish of Glasgow. Its minister is 
 appointed by the corporation, who are the patrons also of 
 the parishes of Blackfriars, Trou, St. David, St. George, 
 St. Andrew, St. Enoch, St. John, and St. James, to the 
 minister of each of which, as well as to the minister of 
 St. Paul's, they pay a stipend of £425. The present 
 church was erected by the corporation, and dedicated to 
 St. Paul, in 1836 ; it is a handsome structure, and con- 
 tains 1I9S sittings. There are places of worship for 
 members of the Free Church, Glassites, Old Scotch In- 
 dependents, Baptists, Scottish Baptists, the Society of 
 Friends, and most other denominations. The parish of 
 the College, or Blackfriars, is a town parish, within which 
 the buildings of the university are situated; and is densely 
 populous, numbering 10,574 persons. The church, nearly 
 in the centre of the parish, was built in 1699, by private 
 subscription, and has been occasionally repaired, and 
 lately reseated ; it is a plain edifice containing 1307 
 sittings. There are places of worship for members of 
 the United Presbyterian Church and others. The parish 
 of the Tron church was formed out of the old parish of 
 Glasgow in 1602, and includes a portion of the city, 
 containing 9990 persons. Its church, situated near the 
 north-eastern extremity of the parish, was erected in 
 1794, and within the last twenty or thirty years has 
 undergone some internal alterations and repairs ; it cou- 

 
 G L A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 tains 1366 sittings. Dr. Chalmers, the late distinguished 
 preacher, was minister of this parish before his presenta- 
 tion to St. John's. The members of the Free Church 
 have a place of worship. St. David's parish, which con- 
 tains a population of 9764, was divided from the older 
 city parishes in 1720, by the presbytery and the court 
 of Teinds : the church, erected in 18'25, from designs 
 by Mr. Rickman, is a handsome structure containing 
 1 148 sittings. There are places of worship for members 
 of the Free Church, the United Presbyterian Church, Inde- 
 pendents, S wedenborgians, Hebrews, Bereans, Wesleyans, 
 and a congregation simply calling themselves Christians. 
 St. George's parish, the population of which is 20,370, was 
 disjoined from the Old Wynd parishbythe court of Teinds, 
 in 1687, and consists of three separate districts which are 
 intersected by parts of the Barony parish. The church 
 was built in 1807, from the city funds, and has not been 
 altered since its erection ; it is a handsome edifice con- 
 taining 1317 sittings. A church, dedicated to St. Peter, 
 was erected by the Church-Building Society, at an ex- 
 pense of about £3200, including the site ; and a portion 
 of the parish, comprising 4366 persons, was for a time 
 annexed to it as an ecclesiastical district. There are 
 also places of worship for members of the Free Church, 
 Baptists, Independents, and Original Seceders. St. An- 
 drew's parish, which is entirely a town parish, and has a 
 population of "317. was founded in 1765, and is about 
 half a mile in length, and of nearly equal breadth. The 
 church was finished in 1756, out of the funds of the city, 
 and was reseated in 1833 : it has a lofty tower sur- 
 mounted by a spire, and a noble portico of six Corinthian 
 columns, supporting an entablature and cornice, with a 
 triangular pediment ; it is situated in the centre of St. 
 Andrew's square, and contains 1210 sittings. There are 
 places of worship for members of the Free Church, 
 Church Presbyterians, and an episcopal chapel. St. 
 Enoch's parish was formed by the court of Teinds, in 
 1782, and is about half a mile in length and a quarter 
 of a mile in breadth, containing 8877 persons. The 
 church, originally erected from the city funds in 1782, 
 and rebuilt, with the exception of the steeple, in 1828, 
 is a stately structure with a lofty tower of several stages, 
 terminating in a pyramidal spire surmounted by a vane; 
 it is finely situated on the south side of St. Enoch's 
 square, and contains 1224 sittings. There is a place of 
 worship for members of the Free Church ; and the Ro- 
 man Catholics have two chapels, one a spacious edifice 
 in the later English style, erected in 1816, at an expense, 
 including the residence for the priest, of £17,000, and the 
 other a smaller building, purchased in 1S24, at a cost of 
 £500. St. John's parish, formed out of three contiguous 
 parishes by the court of Teinds in 1819, is about three- 
 quarters of a mile in length, and one-quarter of a mile 
 in breadth, and contains a population of 16,228: the 
 church, which is situated near the western extremity of 
 the parish, was built in 1819, from the city funds, and 
 has undergone no alteration ; it has a prominent tower, 
 and contains 1636 sittings. The late distinguished Dr. 
 Chalmers was for several years incumbent of this parish. 
 There are places of worship for members of the Free 
 Church, the United Presbyterian Church, and United 
 Original Seceders, with an episcopal chapel. St. James's 
 parish was erected by the court of Teinds in 1819, and 
 is about one mile in length and half a mile in breadth : 
 it comprehends nearly the whole of the Green, and 
 Vol. I.— 513 
 
 comprises about 115 acres, and 11,216 persons. The 
 church was built in 1812 as a meetinghouse by the 
 Wesleyans, from whom it was purchased by the corpo- 
 ration in 1819, and erected into a parish church; it is a 
 neat structure, and contains 1371 sittings. There are 
 places of worship for members of the Free Church, the 
 United Presbyterian Church, and the Reformed Presby- 
 terians. The parish of Gorbals is described under its own 
 head. 
 
 Among the quoad sacra parishes which were created 
 out of the ten parishes just noticed, and for a time ex- 
 isted in the city, was that of Albion, formed in 1834 out 
 of the parishes of the Outer High church and St. David, 
 and having a population of 4792 : the church had been 
 built in 1768, and enlarged in 1823, and is a handsome 
 structure, containing 1800 sittings. St. George's in the 
 Fields quoad sacra parish was separated from the parish 
 of St. George, and was about half a mile in length and 
 less than a quarter of a mile in breadth, containing 4745 
 persons. The church was built in 1824, as a chapel of 
 ease, partly by donations, and partly by funds borrowed 
 for the purpose, at an expense of £2350 ; it is a neat 
 edifice, and has 1226 sittings. St. Thomas's parish was 
 formed from St. John's ; it was wholly a town parish, 
 about half a mile in length and a quarter of a mile in 
 breadth, with a population of 3762. The church was 
 erected in 1823, as a chapel of ease, chiefly under the 
 auspices of the late Rev. Dr. Chalmers, at a cost of £3320, 
 raised by donations, and by subscription of twenty-one 
 shareholders of £100 each; it contains 1398 sittings. 
 St. Ann's was formed from the parishes of St. Andrew 
 and St. James, and was of moderate extent : the church, 
 originally built by the Wesleyans in 1819, was bought 
 for the use of the Establishment in 1831, at a cost, in- 
 cluding repairs, of £1500 ; it has accommodation for 776 
 persons. Bridgegate, having a population of 5396, was 
 formed from the parish of St. James : this church, also, 
 was recently purchased from the Wesleyans, at a cost, 
 including repairs, of £2300 ; it is a neat building, and 
 contains 890 sittings. All these quoad sacra parishes, 
 formed in, or subsequently to, the year 1834, were after- 
 wards abolished. 
 
 The BARONY civil and ecclesiastical parish was sepa- 
 rated in 1595 from the burgh of Glasgow, which pre- 
 viously formed the only parish, including both the roy- 
 alty and the barony. It contains a great portion of the 
 suburbs and parliamentary borough, with a wide rural 
 district, and is eight miles and a half in length and four 
 and a half in breadth, comprising nearly 14,000 acres, 
 and having a population of 106,0*5. The minister of 
 the parish receives a stipend of about £310, with an 
 allowance for a manse, and a glebe of considerable value. 
 Previously to 1800, the crypt of the cathedral was appro- 
 priated as the place of worship of this parish, but in that 
 year the present church was erected, and in 1830 it was 
 repaired and enlarged ; it is situated about a mile from 
 the nearest, and five miles from the farthest, boundary 
 of the parish, and contains 1403 sittings. There are 
 numerous places of worship for dissenters, comprising 
 members of the Free Church, the United Presbyterian 
 Church, Episcopalians, Baptists, Burghers, independents. 
 Reformed Presbyterians, and Unitarians. The quoad 
 sacra parish of St. Mark, separated from the parish in 
 1835, was wholly a town parish, about 400 yards in 
 length, and 200 yards in breadth, having a population of 
 
 3 U
 
 GL A S 
 
 3315 : the church was originally built by dissenters, 
 from whom it was purchased in 1835, by the Church- 
 Building Society, at a cost, including repairs, of £1260 ; 
 it contains 1032 sittings. The quoad sacra parish of 
 St. Stephen, containing 39/5 persons, was formed in 
 1836 : the church had been built in 1S35, at an expense 
 of nearly £3000, and is a handsome edifice with 1156 
 sittings. From the Barony parish were also separated, 
 for ecclesiastical purposes, the parishes of Anderston, 
 Middle Calton, Camlachie, Maryhill, Shettleston, Bridge- 
 ton, St. Luke, St. Matthew, Renfield, &c., most of which 
 are fully described under their own heads. But all these 
 quoad sacra divisions, like those referred to in the preced- 
 ing paragraph, were afterwards abrogated. 
 
 Within the royalty and barony are likewise the 
 churches or chapels of Duke-street, St. Cnlumba, and 
 Hope-street, established for the accommodation of the 
 Gaelic population of the city and suburbs. Of these, the 
 Duke-street place of worship, then a chapel of ease, was 
 erected into a parish church under act of the General As- 
 sembly in 1834, and so continued for a short time, though, 
 from the scattered dwellings of the congregation, it was 
 impossible to assign to it any particular district. The 
 church was built in 1*98, at an expense of £2400, raised 
 by subscription, and was repaired in 1S14 and 1820, at a 
 cost of £600; it is a neat structure, and contains 12*7 
 sittings. The church of St. Columba, formerly in Ingram- 
 street, but at present situated in Hope-street, was also 
 for a time a parochial church ; it is in connexion with 
 the Established Church, and the minister is appointed 
 by the Gaelic Society. The West Gaelic chapel of Hope- 
 street was likewise made a parish church, in 1835, under 
 act of the General Assembly, and continued such for 
 some years: it was built in 1824, at an expense of 
 £4826, of which £300 were raised by subscriptions and 
 donations, and the remainder by loan ; the church is a 
 handsome structure, and contains 1435 sittings. 
 
 The various burying-grounds in the city and suburbs 
 have, from the great increase of building, been almost 
 surrounded with houses ; and several that were origi- 
 nally in retired situations are now inclosed in the very 
 heart of the city. To remedy this inconvenience, a spa- 
 cious public cemetery has been formed by the Merchants' 
 House, who in 1830 appropriated a portion of their park, 
 adjoining the cathedral, to the purpose. This ground, 
 which is called the Necropolis, is laid out with much 
 taste, and the requisite buildings are of a character har- 
 monizing with the solemnity of the use to which they 
 are applied. The situation of the cemetery is highly 
 picturesque, overlooking the venerable cathedral and the 
 old surrounding burying-ground ; the several walks and 
 drives are beautiful and varied ; and the plants and 
 shrubberies, with the various ornaments in a diversity 
 of styles, render the whole exceedingly interesting and 
 attractive. In the cemetery are, a lofty pillar sur- 
 mounted with a statue, by Forrest, of John Knox, and 
 a handsome monument with a statue, by the same artist, 
 of William Mc Gavin ; besides many other memorials : 
 the monument of the Reformer is seen for many miles 
 eastward of the city. 
 
 Schools and Benevolent Institutions. 
 
 The Grammar or High School is of great antiquity, 
 and appears to have been originally founded as an 
 appendage to the cathedral, and under the immediate 
 514 
 
 GL A S 
 
 superintendence of the chancellor of the diocese, by 
 whom the masters were appointed. After the founda- 
 tion of the university it continued as a distinct establish- 
 ment, though the masters were frequently among the 
 number of those who elected the regents of the univer- 
 sity, and examined the candidates for degrees. In 1595, 
 John Blackburn, who was master of the grammar school, 
 was also lord rector of the university : at that period, 
 the scholars commenced their studies at five o'clock in 
 the morning; and this practice appears to have lasted 
 during the government of Blackburn, who, on his ap- 
 pointment to the ministry of the Barony church, in 
 I6l5, resigned the mastership. From 1/00, the school 
 was occasionally under the control of a rector. This 
 office was abolished in 1830; and from that time there 
 were four masters, each of whom had the entire charge 
 of his own class for the whole period of its continuance 
 in the school, which was generally for the term of four 
 years. In 1834, a material change was made in the 
 condition of the seminary. Two of the four masterships 
 for Greek and Latin were suppressed, and in their place 
 were substituted teachers of English grammar, the 
 French, Italian, and German languages, writing, geogra- 
 phy, and the mathematics. Its designation was altered 
 to that of the High School, and its affairs placed under 
 the superintendence of a committee of the town-council, 
 assisted by the clergy of the city, and the professors of 
 the university. The classical masters, who are ap- 
 pointed by the town-council, have each a salary of £50, 
 paid from the funds of the corporation ; and they re- 
 ceive, in addition, a fee of 13s. 6d. quarterly from each 
 of the scholars, who number about 300 on the average. 
 The buildings of the school, situated in Grey Friars' 
 Wynd, becoming insufficient for the purpose, were aban- 
 doned in the year 1*88, and a handsome structure 
 erected for its use on the north side of George-street ; 
 but this edifice was disposed of in 1828 to the Ander- 
 sonian Institution, and new schoolrooms were raised in 
 John-street. 
 
 A school is supported by the Fleshers' Company, who 
 pay the master a salary of £80 per annum, for the 
 gratuitous education of the children attending it. There 
 are also schools for the clothing and instruction of chil- 
 dren, in connexion with some of the charitable founda- 
 tions of the city ; and in the several parishes are paro- 
 chial and other schools, affording education, either 
 gratuitously or on very moderate terms, to nearly 9000 
 children of both sexes ; more than 100 Sabbath schools, 
 in which 5000 children receive religious instruction ; 
 and ten or twelve infant schools, one of them a model 
 school, all of which are well attended. The salaries of 
 the parochial schoolmasters vary from £25 to £35, and 
 the amount of fees from £30 to £80 per annum, the 
 quarterly payments of the scholars being from two to 
 fifteen shillings each. A Normal seminary was erected 
 in 1837, by the Glasgow Education Society, for preparing 
 teachers to practise the system of moral, intellectual, 
 and physical training pursued by the society. 
 
 The Royal Infirmary was established in 1792, and 
 is supported by voluntary subscriptions, and the fees 
 of students attending it as a school of medicine and 
 surgery. It has a permanent fund of about"£ 16,000 
 from accumulated donations and bequests, and is under 
 the superintendence of twenty-five directors, consisting 
 of the lord provost, the members of parliament for the 
 
 \
 
 GL A S 
 
 G L A S 
 
 city, the dean of guild and the convener, the professors 
 of medicine and anatomy in the university, and mem- 
 bers of the town-council, the Merchants' and Trades' 
 Houses, and the faculty of physicians and surgeons, 
 with ten others chosen by ballot at the general meeting. 
 The internal arrangements are under the management 
 of two physicians, four surgeons, an apothecary, chap- 
 lain, matron, and other officers. Its general disburse- 
 ments are about £3600 per annum. The buildings, 
 erected in 179'2, partly on the site of the archbishop's 
 palace, form a handsome structure designed by Messrs. 
 Robert and James Adam, of quadrangular form, con- 
 sisting of a centre and two boldly-projecting wings. In 
 the centre is a stately portico of Corinthian columns, 
 supporting an enriched entablature and cornice, sur- 
 mounted by a triangular pediment, in the tympanum of 
 which are the royal arms in alto-relievo. The building 
 is four stories high, and is crowned in the middle with 
 a spacious dome, and a lantern which gives light to the 
 hall of operations. It originally contained only eight 
 wards, affording accommodation to 136 in-patients ; but 
 being found inadequate to the wants of the increased 
 population, it was enlarged by the addition of four 
 wards, erected in the rear of the building, at an expense 
 of £4000 ; and it is now adapted for the reception of 
 2W patients. 
 
 The Lunatic Asylum was established in 1810, and 
 is under a committee of management, of which the lord 
 provost is president. It is supported partly by sub- 
 scription and donations, but chiefly by the payments for 
 the several patients, which vary from eight shillings to 
 half a guinea per week for paupers, according to the 
 contribution towards its erection made by the parishes 
 from which they are sent ; and from that amount to 
 three guineas, weekly, for other patients, according to 
 their rank. The internal arrangements are superin- 
 tended by a physician and other medical officers, a 
 housekeeper, and requisite attendants. The original 
 buildings, lately sold to the directors of the Town's 
 hospital, were erected in 1810, at an expense, including 
 the site, of £18,359, after a design by Mr. William 
 Stark ; they were not sufficiently private, and new build- 
 ings were therefore erected a few years ago, about three 
 miles west of Glasgow. The dining-rooms, parlours, and 
 bed-rooms for patients of a higher class are spacious 
 and well furnished; and the institution is conducted with 
 minute regard to the health, comfort, and recreation of 
 all the inmates. 
 
 Tlie Magdalene Asylum was originally projected by a 
 society of gentlemen who purchased a site for its erec- 
 tion belijnd the cathedral ; but some difficulties arising, 
 the design was not carried into effect till 1812, when a 
 more commodious site was obtained, and the asylum 
 erected. This benevolent institution is supported by 
 .subscription, and the annual disbursements average 
 £600 ; the inmates are employed in tambouring, knit- 
 ting, sewing, making clothes for the establishment, and 
 in other useful works suited to their capacity. The 
 building, situated eastward of the old lunatic asylum, 
 is of neat appearance, consisting of a centre with pro- 
 jecting wings ; it is three stories in height, and com- 
 prises a handsome committee-room, apartments for 
 the matron and for thirty-four inmates, and a chapel 
 containing 150 sittings. The whole is surrounded with 
 a high wall, inclosing an area of about an acre, laid 
 515 
 
 down in grass for the purpose of bleaching linen, in 
 which some of the inmates are employed. The Lock 
 Hospital was founded in 1805, and is maintained by 
 subscription : the buildings, on the south side of Rot- 
 ten-row, comprise a committee-room, with rooms for 
 the housekeeper and surgeon, and apartments for the 
 patients. The Deaf arid Dumb Institution, and the Asy- 
 lumfor the Blind, may also be mentioned. St. Nicholas' 
 Hospital was founded in the reign of James III., by 
 Bishop Muirhead, who amply endowed it for a priest 
 and twelve aged laymen. From causes not known, the 
 endowment has been greatly diminished, and at pre- 
 sent produces only about £30 per annum, which sum is 
 distributed, in pensions of £3 each, to ten aged men by 
 the magistrates and town-council. The buildings, which 
 had become a ruin, were removed to make room for a 
 street. 
 
 Hutcheson's Hospital was founded in the year 1641, 
 by George and Thomas Hutcheson, brothers, who be- 
 queathed certain lands and money for its endowment. 
 The money was invested by the corporation, in con- 
 junction with the other trustees, in the purchase of land 
 in the barony of Gorbals, on which the suburb of 
 Hutchesonton was built; and the original endowment has 
 been augmented by benefactions, the principal of which 
 have been 10,000 merks by Mr. James Blair, £2700 by 
 Mr. Daniel Baxter, and the half of his heritable and 
 personal property by Mr. John Snow. The income now 
 amounts to about £3000 per annum. Part of it is dis- 
 tributed in life pensions to decayed burgesses of three 
 years' standing, and fifty years of age ; and the widows 
 and daughters of burgesses are also admitted as pen- 
 sioners. The Hospital is under the control of the 
 magistrates and council, and the ministers of the city 
 churches. Connected with the institution, and sup- 
 ported from its funds, is a school of eighty boys, sons 
 of burgesses, who have been previously for six months 
 in an English school, and are above seven years of age ; 
 they are clothed, instructed, and placed out as appren- 
 tices with premiums. The buildings of the Hospital are 
 situated in Ingram-street, and consist of a handsome 
 range, rising from a rusticated basement, and orna- 
 mented with Corinthian columns, supporting an enta- 
 blature and cornice, and surmounted by an enriched 
 attic. On the sides of the central entrance are niches 
 containing statues of the founders ; and from the rear 
 of the edifice rises a tower, 156 feet in height, crowned 
 by a pyramidal spire. The great hall and committee- 
 rooms are elegantly fitted up, for the accommodation of 
 the patrons and managers. In 1778, Mr. George Wilson, 
 merchant of London, a native of this city, bequeathed 
 to the magistrates and council, in trust, £3000 for the 
 clothing and education of poor boys, to which have 
 been added subsequent donations ; and from these funds, 
 forty-eight boys are clothed and instructed in the school 
 established for that purpose. A bequest of lands by Sir 
 John Scott, for the apprenticing of boys, has, since the 
 improved state of trade rendered the payment of pre- 
 miums unnecessary, been appropriated by the magistrates 
 and council to the placing of twelve additional scholars 
 in the school founded by Mr. 'Wilson, and also in the 
 school of Hutcheson's Hospital. 
 
 The Highland Society was established by a few gen- 
 tlemen of the Highlands, for clothing, educating, and 
 apprenticing indigent sons of Highlanders ; and is sup- 
 
 3 U 2
 
 G L A S 
 
 ported by the payment of £'2. '2. by each member on 
 admission, and by annual subscriptions and donations. 
 There are about sixty boys on the funds, who are clothed, 
 instructed, and apprenticed, and to each of whom, on 
 the expiration of his indentures with credit, is given a 
 silver medal. The Marine Society, for the encourEigement 
 of mariners, and the support of the widows and children 
 of seamen, was founded in 1758, and maintained by a 
 payment of fourpence on each ton of merchandise 
 shipped from the Clyde, a contribution of fourpence per 
 month from the wages of each seaman, and occasional 
 donations and bequests. It distributed about £150 an- 
 nually, in pensions of £3 to the widow of a master, £2 
 to the widow of a mate, and £1. 10. to the widow of a 
 common seaman. This society is now discontinued, and 
 the funds are transferred to the Merchants' Seamen's 
 fund for the united ports of Glasgow, Greenock, and 
 Port-Glasgow. The Society of the Sons of the Clergy was 
 instituted in 1790, by several ministers of the Esta- 
 blished Church, for the relief of the widows and children 
 of clergymen in indigent circumstances ; and is sup- 
 ported by payment of £5. 5. by each of the members on 
 admission, by annual collections in the churches, and 
 by donations and bequests : the society distributes an- 
 nually about £200. Buchanan's Society was established 
 in 1725, for the relief of indigent persons of that name, 
 or of others descended from or connected with the 
 clan. It is supported by payments of £5 by members 
 on admission, the produce of some land and houses, 
 and by donations and bequests. The society in 1815 
 founded a bursary of £25 per annum, tenable for four 
 years, in the university of Glasgow, and which was first 
 held by a youth of the name, a descendant of the 
 founder. Mr. William Mitchel in 1729 bequeathed 
 £3000, the interest to be divided among decayed bur- 
 gesses and their families ; and in 1741 Mr. Robert Ten- 
 nent bequeathed 21,000 merks, of which he appropriated 
 5000 to the support of two schools, 6000 to the main- 
 tenance of three widows, and 10,000 to be lent in small 
 sums to poor tradesmen, for five years, without interest. 
 In 1788, Mr. James Coulter bequeathed £1200 to the lord 
 provost and magistrates in trust, to be distributed among 
 deserving persons in indigent circumstances, in life pen- 
 sions of not less than £4 and not more than £10 per 
 annum. There are numerous other charitable bequests, 
 friendly societies, institutions for the rehef of sick stran- 
 gers, and for various pious purposes. 
 
 The Town Hospital was originally established in 1733, 
 in a building which, though sufficiently capacious and in 
 an airy situation at that time, became, from the increase 
 of the population, quite inadequate for the purpose, and 
 was soon, from the extent of building subsequently 
 erected, closely surrounded. The directors consequently 
 purchased a spot of land in a more eligible situation, 
 comprising 12,000 square yards, for which they paid 
 £3000, and then erected a new hospital and workhouse 
 at a cost of £10,000. This building, however, proving 
 inadequate like the former, the directors in 1840 pur- 
 chased the buildings and part of the grounds of the old 
 lunatic asylum, as already mentioned in the account of 
 that institution. A majestic dome crowns the central 
 range of the structure. The hospital is supported by 
 donations from the public bodies and individuals of the 
 city and suburbs, and by an assessment ; and is under 
 the management of a preceptor, vice-preceptor, and 
 516 
 
 G L A S 
 
 forty-eight directors, of whom twelve are chosen from 
 each of the four bodies of the town-council, the Mer- 
 chants' House, Trades' House, and the General Session, 
 and who hold quarterly meetings, at which they elect 
 the various officers. The internal superintendence is 
 conducted by a committee of eight members, two each 
 from the four bodies. There are generally about 500 
 poor in the house, and 600 out-pensioners ; and the an- 
 nual assessment averages £10,000. In 1817, which was 
 a year of peculiar distress, in addition to the usual funds 
 for the relief of the poor, a subscription was raised, 
 which amounted to £12,871 ; and there were in that 
 year 5140 families upon the books of the establishment. 
 Glasgow confers the title of Earl on the family of 
 Boyle. 
 
 GLASS, a parish, partly in the county of Banff, 
 but chiefly in the district of Strath bogie, county of 
 Aberdeen, 5 miles (W.) from Huntly; containing 886 
 inhabitants, of whom 321 are in the county of Banff. 
 The name of this place, in the Gaelic language signify- 
 ing " grey", is descriptive of the uncultivated portion of 
 the surface. The parish is about eight miles in extreme 
 length, and five miles in extreme breadth, comprising an 
 area of nearly 19,000 acres, of which 4500 are arable, 
 and the remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. Its 
 surface is diversified with hills, which towards the west 
 increase in elevation, forming the boundary in that di- 
 rection : on the south the parish is bounded by a range 
 of hills which separate it from Gartly and Rhynie. 
 There are several fertile straths between the hills, of 
 which the vale of the Doveron is the most important : 
 it is inclosed by hills on each side, varying from 1200 
 to 2000 feet in height above the level of the sea. The 
 river Doveron, which has its source in the hills of Ca- 
 brach, flows in a serpentine course through the vale, 
 and leaving the parish, runs for twenty-five miles in an 
 eastern direction, and falls into the Moray Firth at Banff. 
 From the hills issue numerous springs, of which those 
 near the summit are frequently dry during the summer, 
 while those at the base flow without interruption through 
 the lower grounds. In general the soil is a light loam, 
 yielding chiefly oats and bear, with potatoes and turnips : 
 wheat has been sown, but remunerating crops of it have 
 not been produced. The system of husbandry is im- 
 proved : the farms are of moderate extent, few of them 
 exceeding 150 acres ; and the farm-buildings, usually of 
 stone, with thatched roofs, are substantial and commo- 
 dious. Considerable numbers of sheep were formerly 
 reared in the pastures ; but great losses having been 
 frequently sustained during severe seasons, a few hun- 
 dreds only, of the Highland black-faced breed, are now 
 kept ; and the pastures are more profitably stocked with 
 cuttle. There are a few acres of natural wood, and some 
 lands have recently been planted with pine, larch, and 
 forest trees. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £1877. Ecclesiastically the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Strathbogie, synod of 
 Moray. The minister's stipend is about £198, with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum ; patron, 
 the Duke of Richmond. Glass church, situated in a 
 green, near the river, is a neat plain structure contain- 
 ing 550 sittings ; it was built in 1782, and is in good 
 repair. The members of the Free Church have a place 
 of worship. The parochial school is well attended ; the 
 master has a salary of £34, with a house, an allowance 
 
 r
 
 G L A S 
 
 GL A S 
 
 in money in lieu of garden, and fees averaging about 
 £•28 annually. 
 
 GLASSARY, in the county of Argyll. — See Kil- 
 michael-Glassary. 
 
 GLASSERTON, a parish, in the county of Wigtown, 
 if mile (S. W.) from Whithorn; containing, with the 
 village of Monrieth, 1253 inhabitants. The name of 
 this place is thought to signify, in the Saxon language, 
 " a bare hill"; and it is supposed that the term was 
 adopted from the number of bare hills in the vicinity. 
 Very little is known of the early history of the parish. 
 It is said, however, that St. Ninian, here usually called 
 St. Ringan, the founder of Whithorn Priory, and first 
 bishop of Galloway, resided for a time in a cave on the 
 shore, at Physgill, for the purpose of mortification or 
 penance ; and the cave, which is arched with stones, 
 is still vulgarly called St. Ringan's cave. The present 
 parish was formed by the union of the lands of Glasser- 
 ton and Kirkmaiden. The walls of Kirkmaiden church 
 are yet in existence, on the shore, near Monrieth ; and 
 it is clear that it was formerly a distinct parish ; though 
 when it was united with Glasserton cannot now be 
 ascertained. The parish is about eight miles in length, 
 varying in breadth from one to three miles, and con- 
 taining 13,477 acres. It has the parish of Mochrum on 
 the west, the parishes of Sorbie and Kirkinner on the 
 north, Whithorn on the east, and the bay of Luce on the 
 south. Its coast, which is bold and rugged, and broken 
 by numerous headlands and green peaks, lies parallel 
 with the north coast of the Isle of Man, the island being 
 between sixteen and eighteen miles south of Glasserton. 
 The general appearance of the country is unequal, the 
 surface presenting a succession of heights and hollows. 
 There is a small lake near Castle-Stewart House, in the 
 north, in which eels, trout, pike, and perch are found : 
 the loch of Dowalton forms a small part of the boundary 
 of the parish. 
 
 The SOIL varies very considerably in different parts. 
 On the lands in the north it is damp and poor, having a 
 tenacious subsoil of till, which holds the moisture too 
 near the surface ; in the more southern parts it is a 
 gravelly loam, frequently mixed with clay and moss. 
 Between "000 and 8000 acres are under cultivation ; the 
 waste extends over about 3000 acres, and from 200 to 
 300 are planted. The farmers have adopted a rotation 
 of oats ; potatoes or turnips ; rye-grass and clover, with 
 wheat and barley ; and a crop of hay ; after which the 
 ground returns to pasture. Agriculture has been much 
 improved within the last thirty or forty years. The 
 practice of raising green crops has become quite general. 
 Much moss and heath have been brought into cultiva- 
 tion ; and the natural obstacles to good farming arising 
 from the nature of the soil have been successfully treated 
 by skill and perseverance. The proper application of 
 manure, and the attention paid to divisions and in- 
 closures, have also contributed to produce a highly- 
 advanced state of husbandry, and have amply rewarded 
 the labour of the cultivator. Dairy-farming is pursued 
 in many parts in preference to breeding, on account of 
 its greater profit ; the cows are chiefly the Ayrshire. 
 The sheep in most repute are the Leicesters and the 
 Highland breed ; a few, purchased at Falkirk, are fat- 
 tened on turnips during the winter. The cattle are the 
 black Galloways, for which the parish has always been 
 famous. The annual value of real property in Glasser- 
 517 
 
 ton is £8519. The subsoil of the lands is for the most 
 part strong till and rock, clay, and gravel, presenting 
 many impediments to agricultural improvement, which 
 can only be successfully met by a highly-efficient system 
 of husbandry : the strata are the greywacke rock, among 
 which a piece of granite is occasionally found. In the 
 parish are the mansions of Glasserton and Physgill, both 
 of them handsome modern erections. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Wigtown, synod of Gal- 
 loway, and the patronage is in the Crown : the stipend 
 of the minister is £202, with a good manse, built in 
 1818, and a glebe of fifteen acres, valued at £20 per an- 
 num. Glasserton church is remarkable for the beauty 
 of its situation, in Glasserton park, a tract of 150 acres 
 thickly spread with ornamental plantations, among 
 which, in different directions, a variety of single trees 
 rise majestically, giving a bold relief to the picturesque 
 scenery. The edifice was built in the early part of the 
 eighteenth century, and was repaired, and enlarged by 
 the erection of an aisle and a handsome tower, in 1836 ; 
 now containing 400 sittings. There is a parochial school, 
 the master of which has a salary of £34, and about £20 
 fees, with a good house, built in 1825. Another school 
 is supported, the master of which has a salary of £15, 
 and fees ; the salary arises from the gratuities of two 
 ladies, and the school and master's house stand on land 
 granted by the Earl of Stair rent-free. The poor have 
 the interest of two sums, one of £100, and the other 
 of £G0. 
 
 GLASSFORD, a parish, in the Middle ward of the 
 county of Lanark, 2^ miles (N. E.) from Strathaven ; 
 containing, with the villages of Westquarter and Chapel- 
 ton, 1736 inhabitants. This parish, which is not dis- 
 tinguished by any events of historical importance, is 
 bounded on the south by the river Avon. It is about 
 eight miles in length, and of very irregular form,, vary- 
 ing in breadth from nearly four miles to two miles at its 
 extremities, and to half a mile at the centre. Glassford 
 comprises about 7000 acres, and, with the exception of 
 about 550 acres, is generally arable and in a state of 
 profitable cultivation. The surface is uniformly level, 
 but having a gradual ascent to a considerable elevation ; 
 and consists partly of dale extending along the lower 
 parts of the parish, towards the south, and partly of 
 moor. The soil is various, being in different parts moss, 
 clay, and light loam : some small portion of the moss 
 has been improved, and of the remainder it is probable 
 that, from the rapid advance of agriculture, the greater 
 part will be brought into cultivation. The principal 
 crops are oats, potatoes, and turnips ; attempts have 
 been made of late to raise wheat, and with tolerable 
 success, but hitherto a small tract only has been sown 
 for that purpose. A considerable portion of land is in 
 pasture, and great attention is paid to the rearing of 
 sheep and cattle, the latter mostly of the Ayrshire breed. 
 There is but little wood, and what there is has been 
 planted ; it consists chiefly of beech, ash, and fir. In 
 general the lands are well inclosed, except in the moor- 
 land districts : and the fences, which are usually of 
 thorn and beech, have of late been much attended to, 
 and are well kept up : the farm-houses, also, many of 
 which are of recent erection, are for the most part sub- 
 stantial. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £6700.
 
 GLEN 
 
 Freestone is found in different parts ; near the village 
 of Westquarter are three quarries of excellent quality, 
 and there is also one at a place called Flatt, all of which 
 are in operation, affording employment to several men, 
 and supplying abundant material for building. Lime- 
 stone is also prevalent, and lime-kilns on an extensive 
 scale have been established in the moors, providing 
 plenty of lime for agricultural use. Coal is found in 
 some parts, and at Crutherland works have been opened 
 on a limited scale, for the supply of that estate. Iron- 
 stone has also been lately discovered in different parts 
 of the parish. A considerable number of females are 
 employed in weaving, and on the bank of the river Avon 
 are a flour-mill and a mill for oats, &c. Communication 
 is maintained with Strathaven and other market-towns 
 by means of good turnpike-roads, one of which, from 
 that town to Glasgow, by East Kilbride, and also one to 
 Hamilton, pass through the parish. 
 
 Glassford is in the presbytery of Hamilton, synod of 
 Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of Lady Mary 
 Montgomerie : the minister's stipend is £'256. 17. 11., 
 with a manse, and a glebe of about nine acres of rich 
 land. The parish church, situated in the village of 
 Westquarter, nearly at one extremity of the parish, was 
 erected in 1820, and is adapted for a congregation of 
 560 persons. A handsome church with a spire was 
 erected on the church-extension principle in 1S39, in 
 the village of Chapelton, about three miles from the 
 parish church. There is a place of worship in con- 
 nexion with the Free Church. A female society for the 
 promotion of religious objects was formed in 1835, and 
 a parochial library has been established. The parochial 
 school, situated at Westquarter, affords education to a 
 considerable number ; the salary of the master, a por- 
 tion of which has been assigned to the masters of two 
 branch schools, is £'25. 13., with £35 fees, and a house 
 and garden. The branch schools are at Chapelton and 
 Millwell : the former is endowed with £5. 11. ; and the 
 latter with £2. 15. 6., a house and garden given by Lady 
 Montgomerie, and the sum of £3 from the parish. About 
 300 children attend three Sabbath schools, held at 
 Westquarter, Chapelton, and Millwell ; and there is also 
 a class of adults. On the lands of Avonholm are the 
 remains of a cromlech, consisting of three upright stones. 
 Near Hallhill House were some ruins of an ancient 
 castle, which were removed by the late proprietor ; it 
 appears to have been a very strong fortress, capable of 
 containing more than 100 men, and was probably a safe 
 retreat in times of danger. There are still some remains 
 of the original church and belfry, built in 1633 : they 
 stand in the grave-yard, where is a tombstone inscribed 
 to William Gordon, of Earlston in Galloway, who was 
 shot by a party of dragoons on his way to Bothwell 
 Bridge, in the year 16*9. 
 
 GLEMSHOLM, an isle, in the parish of South Ro- 
 NALDSHAY, county of Orkney. This is a small islet 
 lying northward of the island of Burray, from which it 
 is distant about half a mile : it is nearly a mile in leneith 
 and half a mile in breadth, and is appropriated to the 
 pasturage of cattle and sheep. Glemsholm is an unin- 
 habited island. 
 
 GLEN, a hamlet, in the parish of Falkirk, county 
 of Stirling ; containing 9S inhabitants. 
 
 GLENARY, in the county of Argyll. — See In- 
 
 VERAKY. 
 
 518 
 
 GLEN 
 
 GLENBERVIE, a parish, in the county of Kincar- 
 dine, 7 miles (W. S. W.) from Stonehaven ; containing 
 1296 inhabitants, of whom 397 are in the village of 
 Drumlithie. This parish, which obviously derives its 
 name from the situation of its church in a small glen 
 on the north-eastern bank of the river Bervie, is totally 
 unconnected with any event of historical importance. 
 It is bounded on the north by the hills of Strachan 
 and Durris, forming part of the lower range of the 
 Grampians ; and is about six miles and a half in length 
 and five in breadth, comprising an area of 13,000 acres, 
 of which 5000 are arable, 185 woodland and plantations, 
 and the remainder meadow, pasture, high moorland, 
 and waste. The surface is varied, and naturally divided 
 into three districts, of which that on the banks of the 
 river is level, and separated from the middle district 
 by a deep ravine ; the northern district includes a low 
 and narrow ridge of the Grampians. The rivers are, the 
 Bervie, which has its source in the hills to the north- 
 west, and, taking an eastern course, flows along the 
 southern boundary of the parish into that of Arbuthnott ; 
 the Carron, which rises in the hills near the west of the 
 glen of Bervie, and runs eastward towards Fetteresso ; 
 and the Cowie, which has its source in the hills to the 
 north of the parish, then runs through the northern part 
 of the parish, and flows through Fetteresso. 
 
 The soil is various ; in the district along the Bervie, 
 early, and fertile ; in the middle district, light and cold 
 towards the west, but more productive towards the 
 east ; and in the northern district are some tracts of 
 good arable land, with a large extent of heath and moor. 
 The crops are oats, barley, and bear, with potatoes and 
 turnips ; the system of husbandry is in a very advanced 
 state, and all the improvements in the construction of 
 agricultural implements have been adopted. The annual 
 value of real property in the parish is £5147. There is 
 but little wood. Glenbervie House is a plain ancient 
 building. The only village in the parish is Drumlithie, 
 which is chiefly inhabited by weavers, and persons em- 
 ployed in the usual handicraft trades requisite for the 
 supply of the neighbourhood : the linens woven here are 
 principally of the coarser kinds, mostly Osnaburghs and 
 sheeting, and about eighty persons are engaged. A fair is 
 held in the village, for the sale of cattle, generally about 
 the second week in October. Facility of communica- 
 tion is maintained by good roads, of which the high 
 road from Perth, through Strathmore, to Aberdeen passes 
 near the village ; and the Aberdeen railway has a station 
 at the village. Agricultural produce from the parish is 
 shipped at Stonehaven for the London market. Eccle- 
 siastically the parish is within the bounds of the presby- 
 tery of Fordoun, synod of Angus and Mearns. The 
 minister's stipend is £231, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £7. 5. per annum ; patron, Mrs. Nicholson. 
 Glenbervie church, a neat plain structure erected in the 
 year 1826, contains 700 sittings. The parochial school 
 is well attended ; the master has a salary of £30, with a 
 house, and £2. 2. in lieu of garden, and the fees average 
 £15 per annum. This place gave the title of Baron, in 
 the peerage of Ireland, to the Right Hon. Silvester 
 Douglas, created Lord Glenbervie in 1800; but the 
 dignity became extinct at his lordship's death. — See 
 Drumlithie. 
 
 GLENBUCK, a village, in the parish of Muirkirk, 
 district of Kyle, county of Ayr, 3| miles (N. E. by E.) 

 
 GLEN 
 
 GLEN 
 
 from Muirkirk ; containing 237 inhabitants. This place, 
 which is situated in the extreme east of the parish, and 
 north of the high road from Muirkirk, was an appen- 
 dage to considerable iron-works, erected in 179-i by an 
 English company ; but these works having been discon- 
 tinued in 1813, the village has since fallen greatly into 
 decay. The Ayr river flows at a short distance on the 
 south ; and connected with it are two artificial lakes or 
 reservoirs, which were formed about 1802, by the Messrs. 
 Finlay, of Glasgow, to supply their cotton-factories at 
 Catrine in the parish of Sorn. 
 
 GLENBUCKET, a parish, in the district of Alford, 
 county of Aberdeen, 2 miles (N. E.) from Strathdon, 
 on the road to Aberdeen ; containing 542 inhabitants. 
 This place derives its name from the stream of Bucket, 
 which, rising among lofty mountains, intersects the pa- 
 rish, and falls into the Don near the castle of Glenbucket, 
 the seat of the Gordons of Glenbucket. The last laird 
 of this ancient family espoused the cause of the Stuarts, 
 and held a distinguished command in the rebellions of 
 1~15 and 174.5 : he was consequently compelled to make 
 his escape (to France), when a very aged man, after the 
 fatal battle of Culloden. The length of the parish is 
 about ten miles, and its breadth about two and a half ; 
 it contains upwards of 12,000 acres, of which 1000 are 
 arable, 200 planted, and there is some good pasture and 
 meadow land. Glenbucket is bounded on the north- 
 east by the parish of Cabrach, on the north-west by 
 Banffshire, on the east by the parish of Towie, and on 
 the south by the parish of Strathdon. It is altogether a 
 mountainous district, and is entered from the east by 
 a narrow and romantic pass, commencing at the con- 
 fluence of the rivers Don and Bucket below the castle, 
 which stands on the acclivity of the hill of Benneaw, 
 an eminence rising 1800 feet above the level of the sea. 
 The greatest elevation is the hill of Craigenscore, on the 
 north, the height of which is about 2000 feet. The 
 climate is subject to the extremes of heat and cold, the 
 summers being sometimes intensely hot, and the winters 
 bringing keen north winds, deep snows, and sharp and 
 long-continued frosts. In Glennoughty there are red 
 deer, roe deer, grouse, ptarmigan, blackcock, dotterel, 
 plover, and hares both common and alpine ; in the low 
 grounds, snipe, ducks, and curlew. Fine trout-fishing 
 is to be had in the Bucket and the Don. 
 
 In general the soil is good, and the improved system 
 of husbandry is adopted ; but the deficiencies in drain- 
 ing, inclosing, and planting, and the want of roads, form 
 great obstacles to rapid advances in prosperity. The 
 produce of the farms is usually sent to the markets of 
 Aberdeen. The rocks consist of granite, gneiss, &c., 
 with several others of the primitive formation : there is 
 a good supply of superior limestone, which is wrought 
 to advantage by the tenants, both for their own use and 
 for sale. The inhabitants are all employed in agricul- 
 ture : the parish is the property of the Earl of Fife, and 
 its annual value as returned for the property-tax amounts 
 to £989. There is a very handsome and commodious 
 shooting-lodge, lately built by the Earl of Fife, at Ba- 
 denyon, near the celebrated Lodge anciently inhabited 
 by John of Badenyon, a relation of the Earls of Mar, 
 who were lords superior of the whole country : the 
 superiority is now held by Lord Fife. At Badenyon, 
 Mowat of Abergeldie, and George Forbes, second son of 
 Lord Forbes, settled a feud, as stated by President 
 519 
 
 Forbes in what are called the Culloden Papers. Eccle- 
 siastically the parish is within the bounds of the presby- 
 tery of Alford, synod of Aberdeen ; patron, the Crown. 
 The stipend is £158, of which £125 are drawn from 
 the exchequer ; there is an excellent manse, with a glebe 
 of about £10 annual value. Glenbucket church, built 
 about sixty years since, is a plain commodious edifice. 
 There is a parochial school, the master of which has the 
 medium legal salary, school fees, a house and garden, 
 with three acres of land. A parochial library is also 
 kept up. Burnett's mortification, shared in by all the 
 parishes in the synod, and of which no parish can re- 
 ceive more than £50 nor less than £20, comes to Glen- 
 bucket about once in eight years. The old castle, now 
 nearly in ruins, is a highly picturesque object. 
 
 GLENCAIRN, a parish, in the county of Dum- 
 fries, 13^ miles (N. W. by W.) from Dumfries ; con- 
 taining, with the villages of Dunreggan, Kirkland, and 
 Minnyhive, 2094 inhabitants. This village is about fif- 
 teen miles long, and three and a half broad, and contains 
 about 35,000 acres ; it is bounded on the north by 
 Tynron parish, on the south by Dunscore, on the east 
 by Keir, and on the west by the parishes of Balmaclellan 
 and Dairy. The surface is diversified by numerous hills 
 and valleys, by wood and water. The hills extend in 
 ranges from east to west, rising from 1000 to 1500 feet 
 above the level of the sea ; the higher parts are covered 
 with heath, but the rest generally affords good green 
 pasture. The valleys are highly cultivated, and produce 
 crops of grain. From its proximity to the high hills on 
 the west, the parish has a moist atmosphere ; and it 
 suffers frequently from violent inundations caused by 
 copious rains, which bring great mischief to the low 
 grounds. There is a lake about three miles in circum- 
 ference and four or five fathoms deep, abounding with 
 pike and a large kind of trout ; the water has a black 
 hue, on account of the mossy ground in the neighbour- 
 hood. Three streams, namely, the Castlefairn, the Craig- 
 darroch, and the Dalwhat, rise in the western hills, and 
 meeting a little below the village of Minnyhive, form one 
 stream, which takes the appellation of Cairn. This river 
 has a course of sixteen miles, and then joins the Nith, 
 about a mile above Dumfries, and seven miles distant 
 from the Solway Firth. 
 
 The SOIL in general is light and gravelly, and adapted 
 in a superior degree for turnip husbandry. About 7000 
 acres are cultivated, or occasionally in tillage j 26,600 
 have never been cultivated ; and 800 are occupied by 
 wood. The crops of grain raised in the valleys are very 
 fine, and the grounds are under the most improved system 
 of agriculture. Great benefits have resulted from effi- 
 cient draining, and the construction of embankments ; 
 and by the spirited and liberal support of some of the 
 proprietors, much moss has been reclaimed, and excel- 
 lent farm-houses and offices have been erected. The 
 quantity of arable land has, indeed, been quadrupled 
 within the last fifty years ; and the annual value of real 
 property in the parish now amounts to £11,138. The 
 rocks are chiefly of the transition class : a slate-quarry 
 was formerly wrought to some extent, but it has since 
 been neglected. The mansions are Maxwellton House 
 and Craigdarroch House. Fairs are held at Minnyhive, 
 in March, July, and October, for the hiring of servants ; 
 and a market for lambs has recently been established. 
 There is a daily post ; and about eighteen miles of turn-
 
 GLEN 
 
 GLEN 
 
 pike-road run through the parish, upon which the Glas- 
 gow and Dumfries coach used to travel three times aweek ; 
 there are four bridges on this road, and six upon the parish 
 roads, and all of them are kept in good order. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Penpont, synod of Dumfries ; 
 patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. The stipend is £^80 ; 
 and there is a manse, with a glebe of twelve acres, valued 
 at £18 per annum. A new parish church has been 
 lately erected to seat upwards of 1000 persons. There 
 are a place of worship for members of the Free Church, 
 and one belonging to the United Presbyterian Church. 
 Three parochial schools are supported, in which the 
 classics, with the usual branches of education, are taught ; 
 the respective salaries are £25. 13., £1/. 2., and £8. 11., 
 and the joint fees amount to about £54. There are 
 likewise two subscription libraries at Minnyhive, and a 
 congregational library belonging to the United Presby- 
 terian body. The chief relic of antiquity is a tumulus 
 generally called the Moat, but sometimes the Bow Butts, 
 situated about a mile and a half from the church, and 
 supposed to have been formerly employed as a place 
 for the exercise of archery. In the village of Minnyhive 
 is a cross, erected about the year 1638, when a charter 
 was granted, constituting the village a burgh of barony, 
 with power to hold a weekly market. 
 
 GLENCAPLE-QUAY, a village, in the parish of 
 Caerlaverock, county of Dumfries, 4^ miles (S. S. E.) 
 from Dumfries ; containing 268 inhabitants. The vil- 
 lage is situated on the eastern bank of the Nith, and 
 has a small harbour, the water of which is twelve feet 
 deep at spring tides. Vessels bound for Dumfries, to 
 which town this port is subsidiary, unload here when 
 unable from their burthen to reach the place of their 
 destination ; and much employment is afforded to the 
 male population, as carriers, in consequence. A road 
 from the village runs in a northern direction, and partly 
 along the shore, to Dumfries. A short distance hence, 
 close by the river, was a cell or chapel dedicated to 
 St. Coluraba ; and near it is a well, where persons who 
 drank of its water usually deposited alms. 
 
 GLENCOE, a district, in the parish of Lismore 
 and Appin, district of Lorn, county of Argyll, 17 miles 
 (N. E. by E.) from Appin. This singularly wild and 
 celebrated Highland vale is situated nearly at the head 
 of an arm of the sea called Loch Etive, and extends 
 in a north-western direction to Ballichulish, on Loch 
 Leven, a distance of about ten miles. From the latter 
 point, the western line of the Highland military road 
 passes through the extensive and valuable slate quarries 
 in that quarter, and then turns up the dark vale of 
 Glencoe. The scenery of this vale is in many respects 
 different from that of other Highland glens. It forms 
 a narrow strip of rugged territory, along which flows 
 the wild and rapid stream of the Coe ; and on each side 
 of the banks of this stream, stupendous hills shoot 
 almost perpendicularly upwards to the height of per- 
 haps 2000 feet, terminating either in cragged summits 
 or in spires and cones ; while numerous torrents descend 
 from the heights at intervals, increasing the awful gran- 
 deur of the scene. The mountainous elevations seem as 
 if composed of huge disjointed rocks heaped one upon 
 another, and appear to be in danger of falling every 
 moment, and of filling the dismal chasm below with 
 their crumbling materials. In some places, the opposite 
 520 
 
 ranges approach so near as almost to exclude the sun 
 from the vale, even when at its greatest height in June. 
 Where accessible, the hills afford tolerable pasture for 
 sheep ; but in various parts, particularly on the south 
 side of the glen, no foot has ever trod, and the eagle and 
 his feathered subjects are the only visitants. At its 
 south-eastern extremity, the vale is bounded by the moun- 
 tain called Buchael-Etive. 
 
 Glencoe is famous in the legends of romance as the 
 birthplace of Ossian, and in the poems that bear his 
 name many of the mountains, and the wild scenery of 
 the district, are accurately described. It were to be 
 wished that the celebrity of the vale were confined to the 
 martial deeds of Fingal and his heroes. But the place is 
 also memorable for one of the most barbarous and bloody 
 crimes that have been committed in a modern age, or 
 have ever been sanctioned by any regular and civilized 
 government ; that known as the " massacre of Glencoe". 
 It appears that William III. had published a proclama- 
 tion inviting the Highlanders who had been in arms for 
 James II., to accept of a general amnesty before the 1st 
 of January, I691, on pain of miUtary execution after that 
 time. Mac Ian Macdonald, laird of Glencoe, in accord- 
 ance with this invitation, repaired to Fort-William on 
 the very last day of December, and offered to surrender 
 to the governor of that fortress, by whom, however, he 
 was informed that he should apply to the civil magis- 
 trates. Upon this intimation, he set out with all possi- 
 ble haste to Inverary, the county town, and there surren- 
 dered himself to the sheriff, the time prescribed for 
 submission having been exceeded by only a single day. 
 The sheriff, in consequence of the previous offer to the 
 governor of Fort-William, and moved by Macdonald's 
 entreaties and suppliant manner, agreed to accept his 
 oath of allegiance, and to certify to the unavoidable cause 
 of the delay from the snows and other interruptions on 
 the road ; and the confiding laird returned to Glencoe, 
 assured of security and protection. But an extensive 
 combination, it would appear, was formed for his destruc- 
 tion : the fact of his having sworn allegiance was alto- 
 gether suppressed, at the instance chiefly of the President 
 Stair and the Earl of Breadalbane ; and the certificate of 
 the magistrate was erased from the minutes presented to 
 the privy council. Early in the month of February, 
 therefore, a party of military under the command of Cap- 
 tain Campbell of Glenlyon, entered the vale on pretence 
 of levying taxes and hearth-money ; the clan became 
 alarmed at their appearance, but on Macdonald inquiring 
 of this officer if his intentions were friendly, he assured 
 him upon his honour that they were. All apprehension 
 was allayed in consequence ; and for nearly two weeks, 
 the unsuspecting inhabitants treated their visiters with 
 every mark of attention and hospitality. The soldiers 
 were comfortably quartered among them ; civilities were 
 interchanged on both sides, and even on the night of the 
 dreadful massacre, the 13th of February, Macdonald and 
 Campbell had played at cards, the latter renewing, when 
 retiring, his frequently-expressed protestations of the 
 warmest friendship for his host. 
 
 The fatal order from the executive in England arrived 
 in the night. It directed an immediate and sudden at- 
 tack upon the defenceless villagers while asleep, com- 
 manded the passes to be securely guarded to prevent 
 escape, and exhorted the military not to suffer a man 
 under the age of seventy to be spared by their swords.
 
 GLEN 
 
 GLEN 
 
 From some suspicious circumstances, the sons of Mac- 
 donald were impressed with a presentiment of danger ; 
 but this was not the case before they discovered the ap- 
 proach of the soldiery ; and ere they could alarm their 
 father, the massacre was spreading through the vale. A 
 party entering the house as friends, shot the laird as he 
 rose from his bed. His wife was stripped naked by the 
 assassins, who tore the rings with their teeth from her 
 fingers ; and she expired in the morning from the effects 
 of grief and horror. A guest of the family, Macdonald 
 of Achtrichatain, who had submitted three months before, 
 and who had the royal protection in his pocket, was 
 among the victims. Nine men were bound, and delibe- 
 rately shot, at Campbell's quarters ; his landlord was 
 shot by his orders ; and a youth, who had clung to his 
 knees for protection, was stabbed to death. At another 
 part of the vale, the inhabitants were shot while sitting 
 round their fires ; several women perished with their 
 children in their arms ; a man eighty years of age was 
 put to the sword ; and another, who had escaped to a 
 house for concealment, was burnt alive. Thirty-eight 
 persons were thus inhumanly butchered by their own in- 
 mates and guests. The rest, alarmed by the report of 
 musketry, mostly escaped to the hills, and were preserved 
 from destruction by a tempest that added to the horrors 
 of the night, and which was so terrific as to prevent a 
 detachment from Fort-William, of 400 men, under Colo- 
 nel Hamilton, from advancing in sufficient time to com- 
 plete the massacre. The women and children were spared 
 from the stroke of death ; but it seemed as if only to 
 render their fate more cruel. Such of them as had not 
 died from fright, or escaped, were turned out naked at 
 the dead of night, in a keen frost, into a waste covered 
 with snow, si.x miles distant from any inhabited place ; 
 and many of them were found dead or dying under rocks 
 and hedges. The carnage was succeeded by rapine and 
 desolation ; the houses in the vale were demolished, and 
 the cattle became a prey to the murderers. 
 
 According to Smollett, the Earl of Breadalbane had 
 borne a personal enmity to Macdonald, and had, from 
 this motive, concealed from the ministry the fact of his 
 submission : the order for the extermination of the 
 whole clan, countersigned, it is said, by the king himself, 
 was thus transmitted to the secretary of state in Scot- 
 land, and but too fatally executed. The outcry against 
 the massacre was not confined to these kingdoms; but 
 resounded, with every aggravation, throughout Europe. 
 Yet the secret circumstances relating to it were never 
 sufficiently examined ; no inquiry was instituted at the 
 time, nor was any punishment inflicted subsequently 
 upon its authors. On the contrary, it is asserted that 
 the officers who were most active in the sanguinary deed 
 were promoted. The place where the massacre was 
 chiefly committed is at the north-west end of the vale ; 
 and the old house of Glencoe, still an object of horror, is 
 now a ruin. During Her Majesty's trip to Scotland in 
 1847, the vale of Glencoe was visited by his royal high- 
 ness Prince Albert, attended by several gentlemen of the 
 suite. There are a mission church, a place of worship 
 for members of the Free Church, an episcopal chapel, and 
 a Roman Catholic chapel. 
 
 GLENCROSS, or Glencorse, a parish, in the 
 
 coiinty of Edinburgh, 2^ miles (N. by E.) from Peni- 
 
 cuick ; containing 708 inhabitants. This parish, which 
 
 , consists of portions severed from the parishes of Lass- 
 
 VoL. I.— 521 
 
 wade and Penicuick in 16 16, derives its name from an 
 ancient cross in the cemetery of the old church of St. 
 Catherine, now covered by the water of the Compensa- 
 tion reservoir. The battle of the Pentland hills, between 
 the Covenanters under Colonel Wallace and the king's 
 troops commanded by General Dalziel, took place on 
 Rullion Green, in this parish, on the 28th of November, 
 1666, and terminated in the defeat of the former, with 
 considerable slaughter. Glencross is bounded on the 
 north by the parish of Colinton, on the east and on the 
 south by that of Lasswade, and on the west by Penicuick. 
 It is three miles in length, and nearly the same in breadth, 
 comprising an area of about 1920 acres, of which 1680 
 are arable, and the remainder hilly moorland. The sur- 
 face is beautifully diversified with hill and dale, and 
 abounds in scenery of strikingly picturesque character ; 
 in the northern district is a considerable portion of the 
 Pentlaud hills, and throughout the parish the laud is 
 irregularly undulated. The Glencross or Logan water 
 has its source in the Pentlands, and winding in an eastern 
 direction through the parish, flows into the river Esk 
 near Auchinderry, in the parish of Glencross. In its 
 course along a valley between the Pentland hills, it has 
 been formed, by the Edinburgh Water Company, at an 
 immense expense, into a reservoir for the supply of the 
 numerous mills upon the Esk, in consideration of their 
 having diverted from that river, for the supply of Edin- 
 burgh, the powerful spring of Crawley, which rises near 
 the manse, and discharges sixty cubic feet of water per 
 minute. 
 
 The SOIL varies from a fine rich loam to a gravelly 
 and stiff clay, and is adapted for crops of every kind ; 
 the principal crops are wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and 
 turnips, with the various grasses. The system of agri- 
 culture is in a very forward state ; the lands have been 
 well drained, and inclosed in the lower parts with hedges 
 of thorn, and in the higher with stone dykes. The farm 
 houses and offices are greatly improved in appearance ; 
 they are substantial and commodiously arranged, and ou 
 most of the farms are threshing-mills. Much waste land 
 has been reclaimed and brought into cultivation, yielding 
 fine crops of grain by the judicious use of lime formed 
 into a compost for manure. The hills afford good pas- 
 turage for sheep, which are chiefly the black-faced, with 
 some of the Cheviot breed, and a few of a cross between 
 the black-faced and the Leicestershire. Plantations have 
 been formed on an extensive scale, which are well ma- 
 naged, and in a thriving condition; they consist of almost 
 every sort of trees, both of hard and soft wood. There 
 are some remarkable specimens of Portugal laurel in the 
 gardens of Logan Bank, and of variegated holly at Wood- 
 houselee, some of the latter being more than thirty-five 
 feet in height ; also a silver-fir at Woodhouselee, mea- 
 suring thirteen feet and a half in girth at three feet from 
 the ground. In this parish the substrata are very vari- 
 ous : coal was formerly wrought in Glencross muir ; and 
 a beautiful rock of porphyry in the parish was worked 
 for some time, in the hope of finding copper or silver, 
 but not to any great extent. The annual value of real 
 property in Glencross is £5391. Woodhouselee, the 
 seat of James Tytler, Esq., is an elegant mansion beau- 
 tifully situated in an ample demesne tastefully laid out, 
 and embellished with plantations : Bush, Glencross 
 House, Logan Bank, Castlelaw, and Bellwood are also 
 good mansions. The old house of Greenlaw was con- 
 
 3 X
 
 GLEN 
 
 GLEN 
 
 verted by government into a depOt for French prisoners 
 of war in 1S03, and in 1813 a new prison was commenced, 
 to accommodate 7000 men, but which was never used, 
 as the war terminated before the completion of the build- 
 ings : the prisons are wholly unoccupied, but the bar- 
 racks are occupied by a small detachment of troops 
 from the castle of Edinburgh. There is no village, ex- 
 cept a few clusters of houses at Milton-Mill ; the popu- 
 lation of the parish is entirely agricultural. A distillery 
 was formerly carried on ; but a paper-mill, lately erected, 
 and a meal-mill, are the only works at present : a market 
 for sheep is held on the first and second Mondays in 
 April, at House of j\luir. Facility of communication is 
 afforded by good roads, kept in excellent repair, and by 
 bridges over the Glencross water and the river Esk : the 
 turnpike-road from Edinburgh to Dumfries intersects the 
 parish. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs Glencross is within the 
 bounds of the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale and the 
 presbytery of Dalkeith. The minister's stipend is £156. 
 17., of which £88 are paid by government ; patron, Mr. 
 Tytler. The manse, about a mile from the church, was 
 built in 1816 ; the glebe comprises nine acres, including 
 garden, and is valued at £19. 15. per annum. Glencross 
 church, situated on the summit of an isolated hill, in the 
 centre of the parish, was erected in 1665, and partly re- 
 built after sustaining damage from fire, and enlarged by 
 the erection of transepts, in 1699 ; it was repaired in 
 ISll, and contains 180 sittings, a number very inade- 
 quate to the population of the parish. The parochial 
 schoolmaster has a salary of £34, with a good house 
 and garden, and the fees average about £20 annually. 
 There are vestiges of an ancient camp at Castlelaw, from 
 which that estate most probably took its name ; and on 
 the high grounds of House of Muir are vestiges of ano- 
 ther camp. Upon an eminence near Marchwell, till 
 within the last few years, were some very perfect re- 
 mains of a Druidical circle ; but they have been removed 
 for the sake of the materials, which have been used in 
 the erection of a wall. William Tytler, Esq., author of 
 an inquiry into the evidence against Mary Queen of 
 Scots ; his son. Lord Woodhouselee, author of the Life 
 of Lord Karnes ; and Patrick Eraser Tytler, Esq., young- 
 est son of Lord Woodhouselee, and author of the History 
 of Scotland, all resided on the estate of Woodhouselee. 
 The Rev. Dr. Liglis, author of a vindication of ecclesias- 
 tical establishments, likewise lived for many years in the 
 parish. 
 
 GLENDOVAN, or Glendevon, a parish, in the 
 county of Perth, 8 miles (S. S. W.) from Auchterarder ; 
 containing 157 inhabitants. This parish, which is about 
 six miles in length and four in breadth, derives its name 
 from the river Devon, which runs through it in a direc- 
 tion from west to east, flowing along a narrow and ver- 
 dant glen, and being inclosed by banks of considerable 
 elevation. Glendovan lies in the midst of the Ochil hills, 
 and is bounded on the north by the parishes of Black- 
 ford and Auchterarder, on the east by Fossoway, on the 
 south-east by Jluckart, and on the west and south by 
 Clackmannanshire. It comprises about 6000 acres, of 
 which not more than 100 are arable, and the whole of 
 the remainder rich meadow and pasture land. Tlie sur- 
 face is varied by the hills, clothed to their summits with 
 luxuriant verdure ; and except about thirty persons em- 
 ployed in the wooUen manufacture, for which a mill has 
 522 
 
 been established at Burnfoot, the population is wholly 
 pastoral. The dairy-farms are well managed ; and the 
 produce is sent to the markets of Alloa and Stirling, 
 where it finds a ready sale. The annual value of real 
 property in Glendovan is £1500. A good turnpike-road 
 passing for about three miles and a half through the 
 parish, and which was constructed about thirty-five 
 years ago, has been of great benefit in facilitating a sup- 
 ply of coal, which is plentiful in the immediate vicinity : 
 peat-moss is also abundant, and is used to a considerable 
 extent for fuel. The Devon, a fine copious stream, abounds 
 with excellent trout, and flows through a tract enriched 
 with pleasingly picturesque scenery : on the south bank 
 is Glendovan House, a handsome mansion commanding 
 a good view of the glen. Ecclesiastically the parish is in 
 the presbytery of Auchterarder, synod of Perth and 
 Stirling, and in the patronage of the Crown : the mi- 
 nister's stipend is £158, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £20 per annum. The parochial school is well con- 
 ducted ; the master has a salary of £34, with £15 fees, 
 8:c., and a house and garden. 
 
 GLENDUCKIE, a hamlet, in the parish of Flisk, 
 district of Cupar, county of Fife, 3 miles (E.) from 
 Newburgh ; containing 53 inhabitants. It is seated in 
 the extreme south of the parish, a short distance north 
 of the high road from Newburgh to Cupar. The hamlet 
 is appendant to the farm of Glenduckie, and consists of 
 the farm-house and twelve or fourteen cottages. 
 
 GLENELG, a parish, in the county of Inverness, 
 I8S5 miles (N. W.) from Edinburgh ; containing, with 
 the island of Rassay, 2729 inhabitants. The name of 
 this place, according to some, signifies " the valley of 
 hunting", and according to others, "the valley of the 
 roe ", each of which descriptions is appropriate to the 
 character of the district. The parish is about twenty 
 miles in length, and of nearly the same breadth. It is 
 bounded on the north-east and east by the parish of 
 Glenshiel, in the county of Ross ; on the south-east and 
 south by Glengarry and Lochaber ; on the south-west 
 by the lake of Morir, dividing it from Ardnamurchan ; 
 and on the west and north-west by the Sound of Sleat, 
 separating it from the Isle of Skye. The coast is abrupt 
 and rocky, except in the bay of Glenelg and in the lochs, 
 where good anchorage may be obtained. The interior 
 consists of three districts, namely, Glenelg proper, Knod- 
 yart, and North Morir, which are formed by the inter- 
 section of two arms of the sea, called Loch Hourn and 
 Loch Nevis. Its surface is diversified with hill and 
 glen. In the district of Glenelg are two valleys, through 
 each of which a river pursues its course ; and the in- 
 habitants reside in villages on each side of the streams, 
 and along the shores, the arable land extending along 
 the river-banks, and on the acclivities of the hills. In 
 Knodyart the people live near the sea : North Morir is 
 but little inhabited, being rocky and mountainous, and 
 chiefly adapted for pasture. Loch Hourn and Loch 
 Nevis are about four miles wide at the entrance, and are 
 navigable for twenty miles ; the former is celebrated for 
 the beauty of its scenery and the well-wooded mountains 
 rising from its margin. There are also several fresh- 
 water lakes, which, as well as the rivers, contain a tole- 
 rable supply of fish. 
 
 The SOIL in Glenelg proper is loamy and fertile ; that 
 in the district of Knodyart is much lighter, but when 
 well cultivated produces good crops. The parish, how- .
 
 GLEN 
 
 GLEN 
 
 ever, is chiefly pastoral, being unfit for extensive agri- 
 cultural operations from the rockiness of the surface, 
 and from the great quantity of rain to which the lands 
 are subject at all seasons, exposing the farn)er to much 
 loss of crop. Sheep are the staple live stock, the arable 
 land not being able to supply a sufficiency of winter 
 provender for any other ; the few cattle kept are of the 
 pure Highland breed, and the sheep the black-faced and 
 Cheviots. About '2000 acres are occupied by wood ; 
 and the annual value of real property in the whole pa- 
 rish amounts to £644'2. The rocks are chiefly gneiss, 
 with mica-slate, quartz, hornblende, granite, syenite, 
 and serpentine. There are also several beds of lime- 
 stone ; but it is not wrought, as the scarcity of proper 
 fuel renders the operation too expensive, and as the 
 shells which abound on the coast are found to be a good 
 substitute. Impure plumbago is to be met with in con- 
 siderable quantities. The only mansion-house in the 
 parish is that of Inverie, on the property of Glengarry, 
 in the district of Knodyart ; it is beautifully situated on 
 the banks of Loch Nevis. The chief village is Kirkton, 
 which, with its circumjacent scenery, has excited the 
 admiration of most visiters to this part of the country, 
 and is conveniently seated upon a bay affording good 
 anchorage with the wind south-east, north-east, or east. 
 Its principal street consists of slate-roofed houses, having 
 some good shops, with numerous dirty and squalid cot- 
 tages in the vicinity. The roads leading from the village 
 are beautified with rows of trees ; and these, together with 
 the extensive bay and the interesting back-ground, form 
 a very agreeable and striking picture. The village of 
 Arnisdale, situated at the southern extremity of the dis- 
 trict of Glenelg proper, on the banks of Loch Hourn, is 
 jdso rendered attractive by its imposing Alpine scenery. 
 There is a herring-fishery connected with the parish, 
 which produces about £'250 a year ; and three annual 
 fairs are held in the months of May, July, and Sep- 
 tember, respectively. The inhabitants enjoy good means 
 of communication. The parliamentary road towards the 
 Isle of Skyc passes through the principal glen to the 
 ferry of Kyle Rhea ; it is kept in proper order, and has 
 excellent bridges over the mountain streams. A steam- 
 boat, also, visits the parish weekly, except in the most 
 stormy weather ; and post-offices have been established 
 under Lochalsh and Fort-Augustus. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Lochcarron, synod of 
 Glenelg; patrons, the family of Baillie of Kingussie. 
 The stipend is £237. The manse, which was built re- 
 cently, is a large and handsome edifice, beautifully 
 situated, more than a mile from the church. The glebe 
 is of great extent, comprehending 360 acres, nearly 
 thirty of which are arable, the rest being pasture : this 
 tract, subject to a rent of £19. 10. per annum, was re- 
 ceived in lieu of the old glebe, which was comprehended 
 in a portion of land sold to government for building a 
 fort and barracks, subsequently to the rebellion of 1715. 
 Glenelg church contains about 400 sittings, and is in 
 good condition, having been repaired and re- seated about 
 1827. In the districts of Knodyart and Morir, the 
 population of which is almost entirely Roman Catholic, 
 a missionary labours under the patronage of the General 
 Assembly, also preaching every third Sunday at Arnis- 
 dale, on account of its distance from the parish church. 
 Two Roman Catholic priests officiate in Knodyart and 
 523 
 
 Morir. The parochial school affords instruction in 
 English and Gaelic reading, with the common branches 
 of education, and sometimes in Latin ; tlie master has 
 £30 a year, with £9 in lieu of a house and garden, and 
 about £5 fees. Other schools are supported by the 
 General Assembly's Education Committee and the So- 
 ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge. The chief 
 relics of antiquity are two duns or Pictish towers, situated 
 in the valley of Glenbeg ; they are the finest specimens 
 of their class in this part of the Highlands, and are sup- 
 posed by many, not to be the workmanship of any purely 
 Celtic tribe, but to have been raised by the Danes or 
 Norwegians. Glenelg gives the title of Baron to the 
 family of Grant, a dignity created in IS35, in the person 
 of the Hon. Charles Grant, who had been representative 
 in parliament of the county of Inverness for some years 
 previously, and was at that time secretary of state for 
 the colonies : this nobleman is proprietor of Glenelg 
 proper. 
 
 GLENGAIRN, county of Aberdeen. — See Glen- 
 MUicK, TuLLiCH, and Glengairn. 
 
 GLENHEAD, a village, in the parish of Lochwin- 
 NOCH, county of Renfrew, 2| miles (N. N. E.) from the 
 town of Beith ; containing 53 inhabitants. This small 
 village is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in agri- 
 culture. It is pleasantly situated on the south side of 
 Castle-Semple loch, and contains a school, the master of 
 which has a salary of £5 per annum, paid by the master 
 of the parochial school, and also a house and garden rent- 
 free. 
 
 GLENHOLM, county Peebles. — See Broughton. 
 
 GLENISLA, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 10 
 miles (N. by W.) from Alyth; containing 1134 inhabit- 
 ants. This very extensive parish, which comprehends 
 the north-western portion of the county, derives its name 
 from its spacious and picturesque valley watered by the 
 river Isla. It is about eighteen miles in length and 
 nearly six in extreme breadth, comprising an area of 
 39,776 acres, of which 3960 are arable, 4500 undivided 
 common, about 500 woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder mountain pasture and waste. The surface is 
 strikingly diversified : on the north the parish is sepa- 
 rated from the county of Aberdeen by a barrier of moun- 
 tainous elevation, from which there extend towards the 
 south two ranges of nearly equal height, that bound the 
 parish on the east and west. Between these ranges, for 
 a short distance from the northern boundary, the surface 
 is divided into three small vales by intervening ridges ; 
 and farther towards the south is the height of Kilry, 
 which intersects the parish from west to east, leaving 
 only a narrow interval, through which the Isla pursues 
 its course. The range of mountains forming the eastern 
 boundary divides, for some few miles, into three nearly 
 parallel ranges, inclosing two small vales watered by the 
 rivulets of Pitlochrie and Glenmarkie. The lowest of 
 the mountainous ranges of Glenisla has an elevation of 
 1400 feet above the level of the sea : towards the north 
 they greatly increase in height, terminating in the moun- 
 tain of Glassmile, 3000 feet high, on the western verge 
 of which is raised a heap of stones, whose base lies in 
 the three parishes of Glenisla in the county of Forfar, 
 Kirkmichael in that of Perth, and Crathie in the county 
 of Aberdeen. Mount Blair, on the western boundary, 
 has an elevation of 2260 feet; and from its summit is 
 obtained a commanding view over the adjacent district, 
 
 3X2
 
 G L E N 
 
 GLEN 
 
 with the Lammermoor, Pentland, and other hills of 
 almost infinite variety. The river Isla, which has its 
 source in the heights of Caanlochan, flows in a south- 
 eastern direction, through an extensive tract abounding 
 with truly romantic scenery, and forms some picturesque 
 cascades. Near the bridge of Milna Craig, being arrested 
 in its course by immense masses of projecting rock, it 
 rushes with impetuous violence along its contracted 
 channel, and falls from a height of eighty feet into a 
 wide gulph beneath. About two miles from this, again 
 confined within a narrow channel, scarcely three yards 
 in width, by towering cliffs of precipitous rock, it forces 
 its way through a frightful chasm, and descends in a 
 torrent into a deep and spacious ravine lined on both 
 sides with walls of perpendicular rocks, crowned with 
 trees of every variety of foliage. This pass, which is 
 called the Slug of Auchrannie, is much admired for the 
 grandeur of its scenery. 
 
 The SOIL is partly clay alternated with gravel, and, 
 though tenacious of moisture, is, when properly drained, 
 productive of grain of every kind -, the upper lands are 
 chiefly moss, with some portions of gravel. The crops 
 are mostly oats and barley, with the various green 
 crops ; and the hills afford good pasturage for sheep and 
 cattle, especially towards the head of the parish : the 
 system of agriculture is improved, and the rotation plan 
 of husbandry generally prevalent. The lands are well 
 drained, and partly inclosed ; and the farm-buildings, 
 many of which are of modern erection, are substantial 
 and convenient. In this parish, the cattle, of which the 
 number kept is about ISOO, are of the Angus and 
 Highland breeds ; and the sheep, nearly 10,000 of which 
 are pastured on the hills, are chiefly of the black-faced 
 kind. The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £4009- The plantations, which are of modern growth, 
 are larch and Scotch fir, and thrive well. The substra- 
 tum in the southern part is of the old red sandstone 
 formation, with some portions of trap rock and porphyry ; 
 the sandstone is excellent for building, and there are 
 quarries of blue limestone, which is burnt for agricul- 
 tural use. Communication is afforded by roads kept in 
 repair by statute labour, of which one leads to Alyth, 
 where is a branch post-office, and another forms part of 
 the Kirriemuir and Castletown road : there are several 
 bridges over the river, two of which are of stone, one of 
 iron, and another of wood, the two last for foot passen- 
 gers only. Fairs for cattle, sheep, and horses are held 
 on the first Wednesday in March and the first Wednes- 
 day in August, O. S. For ecclesiastical purposes the 
 parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of Meigle, 
 synod of Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend is 
 £159. 12., of which about one-third is paid from the ex- 
 chequer ; with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 per 
 annum : patron, the Crown. Glenisla church, erected in 
 18'21, and situated nearly in the centre of the parish, is 
 a neat structure containing 7OO sittings. The parochial 
 school is well conducted ; the master has a salary of 
 £29. IS. 10., with a house and garden, and the fees 
 average about £10 per annum. Another school is sup- 
 ported by the Society for Propagating Christian Know- 
 ledge, who allow the master a salary of £16 per annum. 
 There are some small remains of the castles of Fortar 
 and Newton, ancient baronial seats of the ^arls of Airlie ; 
 the former was destroyed in 1640, by the Marquess of 
 Argyll. la 1S41 a silver coin or medal, with a half- 
 524 
 
 length figure of Anselm Casimer, Archbishop of Mentz, 
 and silver coins of Elizabeth and James VI., were found 
 in a field on the farm of Bellaty. 
 
 GLENLUCE, county Wigtown. — See Luce, Old. 
 
 GLENLYON, a quoad sacra parish, chiefly in the 
 parish of Fortingal, and partly in that of Weem, 
 county of Perth, 12 miles (W.) from the Kirktown of 
 Fortingal ; containing 570 inhabitants. This district 
 extends in a western direction, from the head of Fortin- 
 gal, nearly to the stage-house of Tyndrum, upon the 
 western military road, a distance of about thirty-two 
 miles. It consists of a very narrow glen, the sides of 
 which are formed of some of the loftiest mountains in 
 the county. What is termed its general level ground, 
 by the river Lyon, is seldom more than a furlong broad ; 
 and the mountains on the north approach so closely in 
 some places to the opposite range, on the south, as to 
 confine the struggling river to a bed not much more 
 than eight yards wide. Numerous streams, some of 
 them four miles in length, descend from the mountains 
 and swell the waters of the Lyon ; and this river, the 
 source of which is a lake of the same name, after flowing 
 in nearly an eastern direction for upwards of forty miles, 
 its tributaries rendering it more rapid at each confluence, 
 falls into the Tay below Taymouth Castle. In the head 
 of the district the soil is good ; but the seasons are in- 
 clement, and the crops seldom attain to perfection. The 
 hills, however, afford excellent pasturage for sheep ; and 
 in this respect Glenlyon is exceeded by few, if any, of the 
 glens in the Perthshire Highlands. In different parts 
 along the vale are small hamlets, so secluded amidst 
 Alpine scenery as to be deprived of the rays of the sua 
 for a third part of the year. The means of communi- 
 cation are but indifferent : a carrier or runner passes 
 and repasses between Aberfeldy and the extremity of 
 the glen three times a week. Ecclesiastically Glenlyon 
 is within the bounds of the Presbytery of Weem, synod 
 of Perth and Stirling, and the patronage is vested in the 
 Crown: the stipend of the minister is £120, with a 
 manse, and a glebe of the annual value of £2. 10., a pri- 
 vilege of cutting peat, and the summer grazing of two 
 cows. The church, situated in the hamlet of Innerwick, 
 was built by the heritors, in 1828, at a cost of £673, and 
 contains between 500 and 600 sittings. This place gave 
 the title of Baron, in the peerage of the United Kingdom, 
 to James, second son of John, fourth Duke of Atholl, 
 who died in 1837, and was succeeded by his son George, 
 as second lord, now sixth Duke of Atholl. — See For- 
 tingal. 
 
 GLENMORRISTON, in the county of Inverness. 
 — See Urquhart. 
 
 GLENMUICK, TULLICH, and GLENGAIRN, a 
 parish, in the district of Kincardine O'Neil, county 
 of Aberdeen, 16 miles (W.) from Kincardine O'Neil; 
 containing, with the village of Ballater, 2118 inhabit- 
 ants. The compound GaeUc term Glean-muic, expres- 
 sive of "a valley frequented by swine", is supposed to 
 have been applied to this place from some part of it 
 having been formerly celebrated for its breed of swine. 
 The word TuUich is corrupted from tulach, signifying 
 "rising grounds, or hillocks", and is descriptive of the 
 vicinity of the village of Tullich. Glengairn is derived 
 from the three words glean-garbh-amhain, meaning " the 
 hollow or glen of the rough water", a term properly 
 applied to the water of Gairn, on account of the rocky
 
 GLEN 
 
 GLEN 
 
 channel through which it pursues its course. The out- 
 line of the parish is very irregular, the length in several 
 places being eighteen miles and the breadth fifteen miles, 
 and the average length about fourteen and a half and 
 the breadth twelve and a half. Glenmuich measures in 
 average length fifteen miles, from east to west, and five 
 and a half in breadth ; Tullich, fourteen miles in length, 
 from east to west, and seven miles in breadth ; and 
 Glcngairn, eight miles in length and four in breadth. 
 They comprise together about 115,'200 acres, of which 
 3643 are under cultivation, 318.5 in woods and planta- 
 tions, and the remainder hills, moss, and moor, afford- 
 ing pasture, fuel, and game. In most parts the surface 
 is mountainous and hilly ; the small portion under til- 
 lage is chiefly in fertile straths, and on the banks of 
 the rivers. The lands are watered by the Dee, the 
 Muick, and the Gairn ; the first divides the parish 
 throughout its whole length, the district of Glenmuick 
 being nearly all on its southern side, and Tullich and 
 Glengairn on the northern. There are also several rivu- 
 lets or burns. 
 
 The chief mountains, which are partly in contiguous 
 parishes, are Lochnager, Cairntaggart, Mountkeen, and 
 Morven, rising respectively to the height of 3814 feet, 
 3000 feet, 3126 feet, and 2934 feet. The most con- 
 siderable hills are in ranges, varying from 1000 to 
 2500 feet : that of Culblean, at the east of Tullich, ex- 
 tends from Morven in a southern direction, for six 
 miles, as far as the river Dee. From the centre of this, 
 another range runs westward, along the north bank of 
 the Dee, to the valley of Gairn ; and though interrupted 
 here, it rises again on the west side of the valley, and 
 stretches parallel with the Dee to the church of Crathie. 
 A third chain, on the south side of the Dee, extends in 
 a line with the former, for about six miles, towards the 
 ■west ; and after often changing its direction, and bound- 
 ing several lochs, it reaches the parish of Crathie and 
 Braemar at the mountain of Cairntaggart. There are 
 also some isolated hills, of which that called Craigandar- 
 roch, 400 yards north of the church, rises to the height 
 of 1400 feet, and another, named the Cnoc, a mile west 
 of the church, attains an elevation of 1150 feet. The 
 ground rising from the streams, where the ascent is not 
 too abrupt or rocky, is cultivated to the height of between 
 100 and 200 feet above the streams. 
 
 The wild and romantic mountain scenery of the dis- 
 trict is blended with many beautifully picturesque fea- 
 tures, for which it is much indebted to its rivers and 
 lakes. The Dee, rising in the mountains of Braemar, 
 flows into this parish, and on its northern side, about 
 one mile and a half north-west of the church, receives 
 the river Gairn, which has passed through the district 
 of Glengairn ; while, half a mile west of the church, on 
 its southern side, it is joined by the Muick, a stream re- 
 markable for the beautiful cascade called the Linn of 
 Muick. It proceeds in an eastern course to Aberdeen, 
 ■where it falls into the sea. Among the lochs, that of 
 Dhuloch, at the south-western extremity of Glenmuick, 
 is celebrated for its impressive scenery ; and its water, 
 ■which is deep and cold, derives a sable hue from the 
 stupendous overhanging cliffs of Craigdhuloch, which 
 rise on its southern shore above 1000 feet in height. 
 A mountain rivulet falls into it from a considerable 
 elevation, over a rock, on the north ; and a small stream 
 called by its own name runs out of it in an eastern 
 525 
 
 course, forming several cascades, and at the distance of 
 a mile and a half losing itself in Loch Muick. This lake 
 is situated in the midst of romantic scenery, and is 
 closely girt by the mountain of Lochnagar on the north, 
 and a lofty range of the Grampians on the south and 
 west. The loch of Cannor, about three miles round, 
 and lying at the base of Culblean, in the district of 
 Tullich, is also a beautiful sheet of water, richly orna- 
 mented with birch-wood, and interspersed with small 
 islands. On one of these islands once stood a fortress, 
 supposed to have been built as a hunting-seat by Malcolm 
 Canmore ; and not far from the loch is a curious exca- 
 vation, called " the Vat" on account of its shape, it 
 being nearly circular, measuring at the bottom about 
 twelve feet in diameter, and gradually increasing in size 
 to the top. A stream falls into "the Vat" from the 
 height of thirty feet ; and the hollow is supposed to have 
 been gradually wrought by the pebbles driven round it, 
 for ages, by the rapid and incessant action of the water. 
 Salmon are found in the rivers ; and the lochs are well 
 stocked with eels, pike, par, and trout. 
 
 The SOIL is in general shallow and dry, in some parts 
 sandy, in others gravelly : the grain chiefly cultivated 
 is oats and bear, and most kinds of green crops are 
 raised. The sheep are the black-faced, occasionally 
 crossed with other sorts ; the cattle are the small native 
 breed, mixed with the Galloway and others. The larger 
 agriculturists are gradually introducing the rotation 
 of crops, and other approved usages ; the farm-build- 
 ings are tolerably good, and some tracts of waste land 
 have been trenched, drained, and brought under tillage, 
 within the last few years. Embanking has also been 
 carried on to some extent ; but the inclosures are still 
 deficient, and much is yet required to raise the parish to 
 a level with many of the neighbouring districts. The 
 annual value of real property in Glenmuich, Tullich, 
 and Glengairn is £5745. The prevailing rocks are, 
 primitive limestone, gneiss, and trap, of the first of 
 which' three quarries are in operation ; and these rocks 
 are frequently intersected with veins of quartz and por- 
 phyry. Granite occurs in numerous boulders ; and 
 ironstone and bog-iron are abundant. The natural 
 wood consists chiefly of Scotch fir': and the plantations 
 are of the same ■wood, mixed with larch, pine, moun- 
 tain-ash, and others : plane, elm, and ash are not found 
 to thrive, except in a few places. The mansion of Birk- 
 hall, built in 1*15, and thoroughly repaired and enlarged 
 in 1839, is a beautiful residence, romantically situated. 
 Monaltrie House is a modern structure, in the vicinity 
 of the village, and has very superior flower and fruit 
 gardens attached to it. 
 
 The inhabitants are engaged chiefly in agriculture ; 
 but many females are employed in flax-spinning and the 
 knitting of stockings. A post-office in Ballater com- 
 municates daily with Aberdeen ; and there is a good 
 commutation road, on the north side of the Dee, to 
 Charlestown of Aboyne, where it meets the Aberdeen 
 turnpike-road. A substantial wooden bridge of four 
 arches was erected over the Dee in 1834, two excellent 
 stone bridges having been previously carried away by the 
 floods, the first in 1799, and the other in 1829: the 
 present structure was raised at a cost of more than 
 £2000, defrayed partly by subscription, and partly by 
 a grant from the Parliamentary Commissioners for 
 Highland roads and bridges. The farmers usually send
 
 GLEN 
 
 their corn and dairy produce to Aberdeen, and the live 
 stock to the Scotch or English cattle-markets. Fairs 
 are held on the first Tuesday in May, O. S., the last 
 Tuesday in June, the second Monday and Tuesday in 
 September, O. S., and the Saturday before the 22nd of 
 November : those in May and September are for the 
 sale of cattle, horses, sheep, and general wares ; that in 
 June for the sale of wool, and that in November for 
 hiring servants. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the 
 presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil, synod of Aberdeen, and 
 in the patronage of the Marquess of Iluntly. The mi- 
 nister's stipend is £237, with a manse, and a glebe valued 
 at £7. 10. per annum. The church, built in 179S, is a 
 neat substantial edifice, with a spire and an excellent 
 clock ; it is situated in the middle of a square in the 
 village of Ballater, and has accommodation for about 
 800 persons. A missionary in connexion with the 
 Established Church officiates in a chapel at Rinloan in 
 Glengairn, seven miles from Ballater, and, besides the 
 usual accommodations, receives £60 per annum from 
 the Royal Bounty Committee. The members of the 
 Free Church have a place of worship ; and there is a 
 Roman Catholic chapel on Gairnside, five miles distant 
 from the church, and a second, a very small one, in 
 another part. The parochial school, situated in Ballater, 
 affords instruction in the usual branches ; the master 
 has the maximum salary, with a house, and £15 fees, 
 and participates in the Dick bequest. There is also a 
 school near the chapel in Glengairn, the master of which, 
 in addition to accommodations, has £15 per annum from 
 a bequest by Miss Farquharson. A subscription library 
 and a savings' bank are kept up in the parish. On the 
 moor near Culblean are several cairns, said to cover the 
 graves of those viho fell in flight after the battle of Cul- 
 blean, foughjt between the followers of King David Bruce, 
 and those of Cummin, Earl of Atholl, in 1335. — See 
 Ballater. 
 
 GLENORCHY and INISHAIL, a parish, in the dis- 
 tricts of Lorn and Argyll, county of Argyll, 14 miles 
 (N. by E.) from Inverary ; containing 1644 inhabitants, 
 of whom 247 are in that portion of the parish which 
 was foratime annexed, quoad sacra, to Strathfillan church. 
 These two ancient parishes, which were united in the 
 year 1618, derive their names from the situation of their 
 respective churches, the former in a picturesque glen 
 watered by the river Orchy, and the latter on the beau- 
 tiful island of Inishail in Loch Awe. The lordship of 
 Glenorchy was granted in the fifteenth century, by 
 James II., to an ancestor of the Breadalbane family, 
 whose descendant, the marquess, is the present pro- 
 prietor ; the lands of Inishail are divided among several 
 owners, of whom Mr. Campbell of Monzie is the prin- 
 cipal. The parish, which is partly bounded on the 
 west by Loch Etive, is twenty-four miles in length, vary- 
 ing from five to twenty miles in breadth, and comprising 
 an area of nearly 300 square miles. With the ex- 
 ception of the vale of Glenorchy and the district of Inis- 
 hail, the surface is hilly and mountainous, abounding in 
 boldly romantic scenery. Of the mountainous ranges, 
 the most conspicuous is that of Cruachan, on the north 
 and north-eastern boundary, separating the parish from 
 the parishes of Ardchattan and Appin, and in which are 
 the heights of Beinabhuiridh, Stob-an-Daimh, Bein- 
 macmonaidh, and Beindourain. The range extending 
 from the western to the eastern extremity of Loch Awe, 
 526 
 
 GLEN 
 
 along the south side of the vale of the Orchy, terminates 
 at the bases of the mountains Tighearnan and Beinach- 
 leidh, near Beinlaoidh, the highest mountain in the 
 parish. These ranges are in several places broken by 
 intervening glens, through which run the rivers Orchy 
 and Awe, which in their course form some pleasing 
 cataracts, flowing between banks densely wooded and 
 marked with features of strikingly romantic character. 
 Both the rivers abound with salmon and trout, and are 
 much frequented by anglers. The chief lakes are Loch 
 Awe and Lochtolla, which contain salmon, trout of large 
 size, eels, char, perch, and pike, the last of recent intro- 
 duction. Of the former extensive lake, only the eastern 
 extremity is in this parish ; but from the beauty of the 
 scenery on its shores, it forms a very interesting feature. 
 Lochtolla, which is situated among the hills of Glenorchy, 
 is about four miles in length and a mile in average 
 breadth : on the north bank is a picturesque shooting- 
 lodge belonging to the Marquess of Breadalbane, sur- 
 rounded with thriving plantations. There are several 
 smaller lakes in the parish. 
 
 On the banks of the rivers the soil is a mixture of 
 light earth and sand, and on the sides of Loch Awe a 
 deep and rich loam resting on a gravelly subsoil ; the 
 crops are oats, barley, bear, potatoes, and turnips. The 
 system of husbandry has made considerable progress, 
 and the farm-houses are generally substantial and well 
 built ; but the offices are of rather inferior order, and 
 the lands only partially inclosed. Embankments have 
 been raised on the Orchy, and the channel of the river 
 Awe deepened. The upland portion of the parish is 
 purely pastoral, and great numbers of sheep and black- 
 cattle are reared on the hills. The sheep, with the ex- 
 ception of a few of the Cheviot and Leicestershire, are 
 all of the black-faced breed ; and the cattle of the pure 
 Argyllshire breed, except some Ayrshire cows on the 
 dairy-farms. The sheep and cattle are sent principally 
 to the markets of Falkirk and Dumbarton, and the wool 
 to Liverpool. There are about 4000 red-deer in the 
 Marquess of Breadalbane's deer-forest. Though com- 
 paratively little remains of the ancient woods with which 
 the parish formerly abounded, the lands are still far from 
 being destitute of timber, and various modern planta- 
 tions have been formed, which are in a thriving state, 
 and add much to the beauty of the scenery. The an- 
 nual value of real property in the parish is £8886. 
 Among the seats is Inishdrynich House, a handsome 
 mansion beautifully situated on the north side of Loch 
 Awe, in a demesne richly wooded, and laid out with 
 great taste. Inverawe, about a mile from Inishdrynich, 
 and also on the banks of the loch, is an elegant modern 
 mansion, surrounded with plantations ; and Rockhill is 
 likewise a pleasant residence, on Loch Awe, of which 
 it commands an extensive and interesting view. There 
 is no village of any importance. At Dalmally is a post- 
 ing inn, affording every accommodation ; and facility of 
 communication is maintained by good roads which have 
 been formed in various parts of the parish, and are kept 
 in excellent order. Fairs are held on the third Wednes- 
 day in March, and the fourth Tuesday in November. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Lorn, synod of Argyll ; pa- 
 trons, the Duke of Argyll and the Marquess of Breadal- 
 bane. The minister's stipend is £206, with a manse, a 
 glebe valued at £22 per annum^ and the privilege of 

 
 GLEN 
 
 GLEN 
 
 pasturing eight cows on four farms in the neighbourhood, 
 which is equivalent to about £10 more. Glenorchy 
 church, erected in ISll, is a handsome structure in the 
 later English style of architecture ; it is beautifully situ- 
 ated on an islet formed by the windings of the river 
 Orchy, and contains 500 sittings. Inishail church, for- 
 merly on an island of that name in Loch Awe, but re- 
 built on the shore of the lake, is a plain structure con- 
 taining sittings for 2.50 persons. The members of the 
 Free Church have a place of worship. There is a paro- 
 chial school in Glenorchy, of which the master has a 
 salary of £34. 4., with fees amounting to about £8, and a 
 house and garden. Two parochial schools are supported 
 in Inishail, the masters of which have each a salary of 
 £25. 13., and each fees averaging £5 per annum, without 
 accommodations. The parochial library contains about 
 300 volumes. 
 
 There are some remains of ancient castles, among 
 which are those of Fraocheilein Castle, situated on a 
 rock in Loch Awe, and erected in the reign of Alexander 
 in. by the chief of the clan MacNaughton. The castle 
 of Caolchurn, at the eastern extremity of the lake, was 
 for many centuries the stronghold of the Breadalbane 
 family ; the great tower or keep was built by the lady 
 of Sir Colin Campbell, ancestor of the family, during his 
 absence in the Holy Land, in 1440. This castle, after 
 the removal of the owners to their seat at Taymouth, 
 fell into decay, which was greatly accelerated by the ap- 
 propriation of the materials to the building of farm- 
 houses in the parish. There are slight remains, also, of 
 the castles of Achallader, Duchoille, and others. On the 
 island of Inishail are the ruins of a convent for nuns of 
 the Cistercian order, the chapel of which was used after 
 the Reformation as the parish church of Inishail, till the 
 erection of the present structure in 1736. Upon a small 
 islet in the lake, called the Priest's Isle, are the remains 
 of the house of the priest of Inishail, surrounded with a 
 wall of dry stones ; and from the south shore of the lake, 
 may be traced some huge blocks of stone intended for 
 the foundation of a bridge, and still called the Druid's 
 Bridge. On opening a cairn on the farm of Stronmil- 
 chan, a few years since, was found a stone coffin con- 
 taining an urn. The Rev. Dr. John Smith, translator of 
 the Biljle into the Gaelic language, and Duncan Mclntyre, 
 an eminent Highland bard, were natives of the parish. 
 Glenorchy gives the title of Viscount to the Marquess of 
 Breadalbane. 
 
 GLENSHIEL, a parish, in the county of Ross and 
 Cromarty, 16 miles (S. E.) from Balmacara in Loch- 
 alsh ; containing 745 inhabitants. The derivation of the 
 name of Glenshiel is involved in obscurity, the original 
 word being equally apphcable to a " glen of cattle", " of 
 hunting", or " of rain". The history of the parish is 
 also uncertain, till about the middle of the thirteenth 
 century. At this time the Mc Kenzies, whose founder 
 had been rewarded by Alexander III. for his bravery at 
 the battle of Largs, expelled from Glenshiel several 
 tribes known by the names of Macbheolan, Macaulay, 
 and others, and made themselves possessors of the land. 
 In the beginning of the next century, however, the 
 Mc Raes, a clan supposed to be of Irish origin, settled in 
 the parish, and shortly became almost the sole proprie- 
 tors. In a later age, in 1719, the descendants of this 
 ancient tribe, with some adherents of the Mackenzie 
 family, and 400 Spaniards headed by William, Earl of 
 527 
 
 Seaforth, engaged the royal troops in the narrow pass 
 of Glenshiel, in the cause of the dethroned family of 
 Stuart j but after several severe engagements, the High- 
 landers were repulsed, and retired, carrying with them 
 the Earl of Seaforth, who had been dangerously wounded. 
 The celebrated Rob Roy was concerned in this affair, 
 against the king's troops. The Mc Raes had fought on 
 the same side also at Sheriffmuir in 1715, but did not 
 interfere in the rebellion of 1745. Glenshiel was formed 
 into a separate parish, out of that of Kintail, about a cen- 
 tury ago. 
 
 The PARISH is about twenty-six miles in length, vary- 
 ing in breadth from two to six miles, and containing 
 72,000 acres. It is bounded on the north by Loch 
 Duich, which divides it from the parishes of Loehalsh 
 and Kintail ; on the south by the parish of Glenelg ; on 
 the east by the parishes of Kiltarlity, Urquhart, and 
 Kilmonivaig ; and on the west by the strait of Kylerea, 
 which separates it from the Isle of Skye. The surface 
 is formed of two divisions, the eastern and western. 
 The eastern consists of three ranges of lofty mountains, 
 divided by narrow valleys, and rising in a bold and pre- 
 cipitous manner at the western end, to an elevation of 
 nearly 4000 feet above the level of the sea : among the 
 many peaks by which the ranges are distinguished, 
 ScCir-uran is the most conspicuous. The celebrated 
 valley of Glenshiel lies between two of these ridges. It 
 is about fifteen miles in length, of various breadth, and 
 narrows so much at the middle, by the approach of the 
 mountains, as to leave only sufficient space for the 
 stream of Shiel to pass along. In a more expanding 
 portion it forms a bed for the waters of the lake of 
 Cluonie ; and the scenery is altogether of a bold and ro- 
 mantic cast. The western division of the parish, called 
 Letterfearn, implying " the alder side", is of a different 
 character from the other division, consisting of a ver- 
 dant tract gradually rising from Loch Duich, and marked 
 by rocky projections and headlands, diversified with 
 well-cultivated fields and interesting copses. Good 
 springs are numerous in the parish ; and in the eastern 
 division are two considerable rivers, of very clear water, 
 stocked with salmon and trout, and which flow for about 
 twelve miles, and then empty themselves into Loch 
 Duich at the south and east extremities. One of these 
 is the Shiel, running through the valley of Glenshiel. 
 The principal inland lakes are Loch Cluonie, Loch Luin, 
 and Loch Shiel, all of which abound in excellent trout. 
 
 The SOIL near the shore is gravelly, and, if well ma- 
 nured, produces good crops of potatoes ; in several of 
 the valleys a rich vegetable mould is found, partially 
 mixed with sand or gravel, and admitting of superior 
 cultivation. About 2S0 acres are employed in tillage, 
 and 71,600 are under pasture : about seventy acres are 
 wood, considerable portions of which consist of ash and 
 alder. There are a few good farms, but the tillage is 
 principally confined to yearly tenants who hold from 
 one to two acres j»f land, which is turned with the spade, 
 and sown with barley or oats, or planted with potatoes : 
 the manure used is sea-weed. The houses on the su- 
 perior farms are convenient and substantial buildings : 
 those inhabited by the small tenants, however, are of 
 a mean description, built of common stones, without 
 cement, and containing only one apartment, with par- 
 titions. Black-cattle, which used to form the whole 
 live stock, have been gradually yielding since the be-
 
 GO LS 
 
 G O LS 
 
 ginning of the present century to sheep. The breed of 
 these, which has been much promoted, is the black- 
 faced, or the Cheviot, with a cross of the two : the cat- 
 tle are chiefly the native Highland, celebrated for their 
 beauty and their hardiness, and a few Ayrshire cows are 
 kept on some of the farms for their milk. In this parish 
 the subsoil is a stiff and tenacious till, rendering drain- 
 ing difficult and expensive, and impeding the efforts of 
 cultivation. The prevailing rock is gneiss, sometimes 
 receiving a tinge of red from iron-ore ; granite, also, is 
 found in several parts, and there is abundance of lime- 
 stone on the properties of Letterfearn and Glenshiel. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £3014. 
 
 There is no village in the parish : fairs for the sale of 
 black-cattle are held at Shielhouse at Whitsuntide, in 
 July, and September. Communication between Glen- 
 shiel and Inverness is maintained by means of a parlia- 
 mentary road that runs for eighteen miles through the 
 parish. There is a good harbour, named Ob-inag, at 
 the point where Loch Duich joins Loch Alsh ; it is ca- 
 pable of sheltering the largest vessels. The bays, also, 
 of Ardintoul and Craigan-roy, at the southern extremity 
 of Loch Duich, afford secure anchorage. Ecclesiastically 
 the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Lochcarron, synod of Glenelg, and the patronage is in 
 the Crown: the minister's stipend is £158, with a 
 manse, built in 1S34, and a glebe of about twenty-four 
 acres, valued at £16 per annum. The church was built 
 in 175S, and is situated in the eastern part of Letter- 
 fearn ; it was repaired, enlarged, and new-roofed in 1 840, 
 and accommodates 300 persons with sittings. There is 
 a parochial school, in which Latin, Gaelic, and English 
 are taught ; the master has a salary of £28, and about 
 £2 fees. The only relic of antiquity is a strong circular 
 fort on the estate of Letterfearn, called a Picts' house. 
 In the parish are some chalybeate springs ; but they 
 have not been used for medicinal purposes. 
 
 GLENTANNER, in the county of Aberdeen. — See 
 Aboyne. 
 
 GOGAR, a hamlet, in the parish of Corstorphine, 
 county of Edinburgh, 2 miles (W.) from Corstorphine; 
 containing 32 inhabitants. The lands of Gogar anciently 
 formed a parish, which merged after the Reformation 
 into the adjoining parishes of Corstorphine, Kirkliston, 
 and Ratho. This estate was given by King Robert 
 Bruce to Alexander Seton, one of his companions in 
 arms ; and for a long series of years subsequently, it 
 was a possession of successive influential families. The 
 hamlet is in that division of the ancient psirish incorpo- 
 rated with Corstorphine, and, though now very small 
 and unimportant, is said to have been a considerable 
 village, at one time numbering 300 inhabitants : the 
 road from Corstorphine to Brocksburn passes through 
 it, and the Gogar burn flows in its vicinity, on the south 
 and west. A small portion of the church still exists ; 
 and there is a school, supported by subscription. 
 
 GOLSPIE, a parish, in the county of Sutherland, 
 8 miles (N. N. E.) from the town of Dornoch ; contain- 
 ing, with the village of Bachies, 1214 inhabitants, of 
 whom 491 are in the village of Golspie. This place, 
 anciently called Culmallie, and the present name of 
 which is of doubtful etymology, formed part of the am- 
 ple territories of the Thanes of Sutherland, of whom 
 William was created Earl of Sutherland bv Malcolm 
 598 
 
 Canmore in IO67. Robert or Robin, the second earl, in 
 1100 erected here the castle of Dunrobin, which has 
 since that time been the residence of many of his suc- 
 cessors, and is now a seat of his descendant, the Duke 
 of Sutherland, who is proprietor of nearly the whole 
 county. In 1746, a battle took place on the north side 
 of the Little Ferry, between the militia of the county 
 and a party of the adherents of the Pretender, in which 
 the latter were defeated svith great slaughter, and the 
 Earl of Cromarty and several other men of rank were 
 made prisoners. The parish, which is bounded on the 
 south-east by the ISIoray Firth, and on the south-west by 
 the Little Ferry inlet and the Fleet stream, which separate 
 it from the parish of Dornoch, is about eight miles in length, 
 and six miles in extreme breadth. Its surface, though 
 generally level, is diversified with hills, of which those in 
 the direction of the coast are Bein-a-Bhragidh, having an 
 elevation of 1300 feet above the level of the sea, and Silver 
 Rock and Morvich, which are of inferior height : in the 
 interior are Bein-Horn, 1712, and Beinlundie, 1464 feet 
 high. In the centre of the parish is the valley of Dun- 
 robin, which is richly wooded, and abounds in picturesque 
 scenery ; and towards the coast, and between the bases 
 of the hills, are some level tracts of fertile land. On the 
 summit of Bein-a-Bhragidh, a monument was erected by 
 his tenantry in 1836 to the memory of the late Duke of 
 Sutherland, who died in 1 833. The rivers in the parish 
 are, the Fleet, forming part of its western boundary ; 
 and the Golspie burn, which intersects the eastern por- 
 tion of it, flowing through the picturesque glen to which 
 it gives name, into the Firth, at the village. There are 
 several inland lakes, the principal of which are Horn, 
 Lundie, Farralarie, and SaJachie ; but none of them are 
 more than half a mile in length and about one-third of 
 a mile in breadth. The coast is indented by some small 
 bays, and by the Little Ferry (an inlet from the Firth), 
 at the head of which, and across the Fleet, is a strong 
 mound of earth, connecting the parish with that of Dor- 
 noch on the opposite shore. This mound, which was 
 erected in 1815 at an expense of £9600, towards w-hich 
 the Duke contributed £1600, is nearly 1000 yards in 
 length, sixty yards broad at the base, and twenty on the 
 summit ; and terminates at the north end in a bridge of 
 four arches. It forms an excellent road, over which the 
 mail passes. 
 
 Of the lands in the parish about 2040 acres are arable, 
 800 in woodland and plantations, and the remainder hill 
 moorland and waste. The crops are, grain of all kinds, 
 with potatoes, turnips, and vegetables ; the soil is in 
 general light, but of good quality and fertile, and in 
 some parts a deep loam mixed with clay. The system 
 of husbandry has been brought to great perfection : the 
 cultivated lands have been drained, and inclosed chiefly 
 with stone dykes ; and the farm-houses are substantial 
 and commodious. The cattle principally reared are of 
 the Dunrobin breed, originally introduced from Argyll- 
 shire : on some farms, however, the Highland black breed 
 is preferred ; upon one farm, Kirkton, is a stock of the 
 black-polled Galloway, and on the dairy-farms the cows 
 are chiefly the Ayrshire. The sheep, to the improve- 
 ment of which great attention is paid, are of the Cheviot 
 breed, and obtain a decided preference in the markets. 
 A few horses, chiefly for agriculture, are also reared. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £8959. 
 The plantations have been greatly extended ; and among
 
 GO N A 
 
 G O R B 
 
 the trees most prevalent in the Highlands, large num- 
 bers of forest-trees of every kind have been recently in- 
 troduced with success. There are two quarries of red 
 sandstone and one of white sandstone : the stoue varies 
 much in texture, some veins being much more durable 
 than others, and better adapted for building, for which 
 the stone is extensively quarried. Indications of coal 
 have also been observed iu the parish. Dunrobin Cas- 
 tle, occasionally the residence of the Duke of Suther- 
 land, is a spacious massive structure, situated on the 
 summit of a rock rising from the sea : it occupies a 
 quadrangular area, inclosed by walls of great thickness, 
 and flanked at the angles by circular towers with conical 
 roofs ; and is surrounded with strikingly romantic sce- 
 nery. The village of Golspie, which is pleasantly seated 
 on the coast, is neatly built, and contains an excellent 
 inn, a post-office which has a daily delivery, a branch 
 bank, and various shops. Some of the inhabitants are 
 employed in the usual handicraft trades, and there are 
 some fishermen, with many agricultural labourers. A 
 fair for cattle and for pedlery is held near the village in 
 October. At Dunrobin is a pier for the use of small 
 vessels. Great facilities are alforded by the Little Ferry, 
 w^hich in one part forms a secure harbour, and is fre- 
 quented by vessels importing coal, lime, bone-dust, and 
 various kinds of merchandise for the supply of the dis- 
 trict, and returning with cargoes of grain, wool, and 
 whisky. A smack plies regularly once a month between 
 the Little Ferry and Leith, touching at Helmsdale and 
 Aberdeen ; and there is also a steamer from the Moray 
 Firth to the south, which calls here. An act of parlia- 
 ment was passed in 184S for constructing a harbour at 
 Leek Robie, and for maintaining the harbour of Little 
 Ferry, both in the county of Sutherland. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purijoscs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Dornoch, synod of Suther- 
 land and Caithness. The minister's stipend is £'204, 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £6 per annum ; 
 patron, the Duke of Sutherland. Golspie church, erected 
 in 1738 and enlarged in 17.51, is a neat structure, situ- 
 ated in the village, close to the sea-shore, and containing 
 ,565 sittings. The parochial school is well attended ; 
 the master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, 
 and the fees average about £26 per annum. There are 
 some remains of two Pictish castles, one at a short dis- 
 tance to the east, and the other to the west, of Dunrobin 
 Castle : in the western ruin, the central circle and the 
 gallery between it and the outer walls are still distinctly 
 apparent. Near Morvich are some Druidical remains. 
 A portion of the ancient church is yet standing, as well 
 as part of the wall that inclosed the cemetery in which 
 many of the Earls of Sutherland were interred : near 
 these ruins have been found several brass rings and other 
 relics, which are preserved in Dunrobin Castle. 
 
 GOMETRAY ISLE, in the parish of Kilninian, 
 county of Argyll. It is a small basaltic island of the 
 Hebrides, lying between the isles of Mull and Staffa, and 
 separated from Ulva by so narrow a sound that, from 
 most points of view, they appear as if one island. There 
 is a harbimr on the north, and another on the south side, 
 both of which are safe and tolerably commodious. The 
 inhabitants rear cattle and horses, and manufacture kelp. 
 
 GONOCHAN, a hamlet, in the parish of Fintry, 
 county of Stirling, i a mile (E. by S.) from Fintry; 
 containing 44 inhabitants. It is situated on a burn of 
 Vol. I.— 529 
 
 the same name, and on the high road from Fintry to 
 Campsie : the burn is a tributary to the river Endrick, 
 and both have their source in the parish. In the hamlet 
 is the parochial school, with the dwelling of the master, 
 the latter a neat building erected by himself. 
 
 GORBALS, a parish, in the suburbs of the city of 
 Glasgow, chiefly in the county of Lanark, but partly in 
 the Upper ward of the county of Renfrew; containing 
 48,275 inhabitants, of whom 10,200 form the population 
 of the civil parish of Gorbals, or Gorbals proper, and 
 the remainder are included in that of the civil parish of 
 Govan ; the whole number of 48,275 being regarded as 
 ecclesiastically in the parish of Gorbals. This place, 
 originally called Bridgend, from its situation at the ex- 
 tremity of a bridge over the Clyde connecting it with 
 Glasgow, was anciently part of the parish of Govan, 
 from which it was separated in 1771. At that time it 
 comprised only about fourteen acres, but there were 
 subsequently added the lands of Rea, Little Govan, and 
 the Prebend of Polmadie, containing about 600 acres, 
 and also that part of Govan called the Barony, a tract 
 of 400 acres, belonging to the corporation of Glasgow, 
 the patrons of Hutcheson's Hospital, and the Trades' 
 House. The whole of the rural district is arable land, 
 with a smrdl proportion of meadow and pasture ; the 
 soil is rich, and the moors have been brought into pro- 
 fitable cultivation. The crops are wheat, oats, potatoes, 
 and turnips ; abundance of manure is obtained from the 
 city and suburbs, and every recent improvement in agri- 
 culture has .been adopted. The population is partly 
 agricultural, but chiefly employed in the various manufac- 
 tures of Glasgow. Gorbals, with the adjacent lands, was 
 formed into a burgh of barony and regality at a very 
 early period, and in I6O7 was bestowed by the Archbishop 
 of Glasgow upon Sir George Elphinstone, who in 1611 
 obtained from James VI. a charter confirming the grant. 
 In 1647 his successor conveyed it to the magistrates and 
 town council of Glasgow, who are still superiors of the 
 burgh and baron}', the former of which includes the 
 old parish of Gorbals and part of the parish of Govan, 
 and the latter comprises the districts of Hutchesontown, 
 Laurieston, Tradeston, and Kingston, which are described 
 under their respective heads. An act was passed in 1S46 
 for better supplying with water the barony or regality of 
 Gorbals, and places adjacent. 
 
 The burgh is governed by four bailies, annually ap- 
 pointed by the inhabitants, and two of whom may be 
 continued in office for a second year. Their jurisdiction 
 is exercised chiefly in matters of police, in which they 
 are assisted by commissioners under the police statute ; 
 they have no corporate rights or exclusive privileges. 
 The police buildings comprise a spacious hall and court- 
 house. A court for the trial of civil causes not exceed- 
 ing thirty shillings, in which the process is either ordi- 
 nary or summary, and a court for the recovery of debts 
 not above forty shillings, are held before the bailies occa- 
 sionally, the town-clerks of Glasgow acting as assessors. 
 Both the burgh and barony are within the parliamentary 
 boundary of the city ; the number of £10 householders 
 is 1635. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £150,202. Gorbals is ecclesiastically in the presby- 
 tery of Glasgow, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the 
 patronage of the heritors and the kirk session : the 
 stipend is £250 ; there is neither manse nor glebe, in 
 lieu of which the minister has an allowance of £25 per 
 
 3 Y
 
 GO R D 
 
 GORE 
 
 annum. The church erected in 1771 ^^"as subsequently- 
 purchased for the district of Kirkfield, and a larger and 
 more commodious edifice built for this parish in 1813, 
 at an expense of £"350 ; it is a handsome structure, and 
 contains 1460 sittings. There are places of worship for 
 members of the Free Church, the United Presbyterian 
 Church, and Wesleyans. A school, in which are about 
 140 children, is supported by the kirk session, who pay 
 the master a salary of £50, for the gratuitous instruction 
 of the children of the parish. There is also a school for 
 girls, established in 1S33, under a bequest of £'2000 by 
 Mrs. Waddell of Stonefield : the patronage is vested in 
 the magistrates, and the minister and elders of the kirk 
 session of Gorbals, with preference to children of the 
 name of Macfarlane ; the mistress has a salary of £20, 
 with a house, coal, and candles. 
 
 GORDON, a parish, in the county of Berwick, 
 85 miles (X. W.) from Kelso ; containing 903 inhabit- 
 ants. The name of this place is derived from the Gaelic 
 word Goirtean, signifying "a little farm or field", pro- 
 bably in reference to a particular tract appropriated to 
 the growth of corn, or under some kind of superior cul- 
 tivation. The territory of Gordon, which was of great 
 extent, is said to have been granted in the reign of Mal- 
 colm Canraore, or in that of David I., to an Anglo-Nor- 
 man settler who assumed from it the surname of Gordon. 
 One of his descendants. Sir Adam Gordon, who was 
 killed at the battle of Halidon-hill in 1333, changed his 
 residence to the shire of Aberdeen, in consequence of 
 obtaining considerable possessions in the north ; but the 
 family derived the title of duke from this district until 
 the year 1 836, when the dignity became extinct. A small 
 distance to the north of the village of West Gordon, an 
 eminence still called the Castle is pointed out, as the 
 spot on which the ancestors of the dukes had their seat : 
 it is now entirely covered with plantations, and nothing 
 remains but the vestiges of a moat or ditch. The Mar- 
 quess of Huutly derives his title from a small hamlet 
 named Huntly, near Huntly-wood, the site of which is 
 now indicated only by a single tree. On the death of 
 the last Duke of Gordon in 1836, his inferior title of ]Mar- 
 quess of Huntly passed to his kinsman, the fifth Earl of 
 Aboyne. 
 
 In ancient times the parish was of much greater ex- 
 tent than at present. Part of it, called Durrington- 
 Laws, has been annexed to Longformacus, twelve miles 
 distant ; and another portion, called Spottiswoode, was 
 united, with the parish of Bassendean, to the lands of 
 Westruther, about 1647, in order to form the modern 
 parish of the latter name. Religious foundations were 
 established here at a very early period : at Huntly-wood 
 was a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the advow- 
 son of which came into the family of Home in the reign 
 of James IV. There was also a chapel, called White- 
 Chapel, at the hamlet of Spottiswoode, the ruins of 
 which but recently disappeared ; it was built by John de 
 Spottiswoode, during the reign of David II. Gordon pa- 
 rish church was formerly an appendage to that of Home ; 
 the monks of Kelso obtained the patronage about the year 
 1171, and held it in their possession till the time of the 
 Reformation. 
 
 The PARISH lies in the western portion of the Merse, 
 and is of oval figure, measuring about seven miles long, 
 varying in breadth from two to four miles, and contain- 
 ing 8900 acres. It is bounded on the north by part of 
 530 
 
 Legerwood, by Westruther, and part of Greenlaw ; on 
 the south by Hume, now joined to the parish of Stit- 
 chell, and by Earlstoun ; on the east by Greenlaw ; and 
 on the west by the parish of Legerwood. The site of 
 the parish is elevated, and the surface uneven and hilly, 
 though there are no mountains. The small river Eden 
 runs through the whole extent, from north to south, 
 dividing it into two nearly equal parts ; and the north- 
 eastern boundary is for about two miles and a half 
 formed by the Blackadder, which separates it from 
 Greenlaw. In general the soil is light and sandy, but in 
 some places it approximates to clay : there are several 
 extensive tracts of moor and moss. About 500 acres 
 are planted with fir, beech, oak, and elm, the first of 
 which greatly predominates ; 4296 acres are cultivated, 
 or occasionally in tillage, and 4100 are constantly waste, 
 or in pasture. Grain of all kinds is raised, and good 
 crops of turnips and potatoes are also produced, as well 
 as of hay. The best system of husbandry is followed, 
 and the rotation is the five years' change; the farm-build- 
 ings are usually substantial and convenient, and all the 
 arable land is inclosed with stone dykes or thorn hedges. 
 Much waste has been reclaimed and cultivated ; and 
 draining has been carried on to a considerable e.xtent. 
 The prevailing rock is whinstone, which lies scattered 
 over the surface of the uncultivated moors in blocks of 
 from a few pounds to two tons in weight : in some parts 
 are small beds of red sandstone, but it is so friable as to 
 be almost useless. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £5495. 
 
 The only village is West Gordon, containing about 300 
 inhabitants. The road leading from Kelso to Edinburgh 
 crosses the parish at the widest part, and another road, 
 from Earlstoun to Greenlaw, runs through its whole 
 length ; these, together with the numerous parish roads, 
 are kept in good order. Ecclesiastically Gordon is 
 within the bounds of the presbytery of Lauder, synod of 
 Merse and Teviotdale, and the patronage is in the Crown : 
 the stipend of the minister is £164, with a manse, built 
 in 1803, and a glebe of twelve acres of arable land, 
 valued at £30 per annum. The church, built in 1736, 
 and repaired in 1834, is conveniently placed in the centre 
 of the parish ; it contains 400 sittings. There is a paro- 
 chial school, in which Latin, mathematics, and all the 
 usual branches of education are taught ; the master has 
 the maximum salary, with a house and garden, and 
 about £21 fees. A parochial library was established 
 about the year 1823, and has been of great service. No 
 important relics of antiquity remain in the parish ; but 
 there are two farms called Rumbleton and Rumbleton- 
 Law, names which are said to be corruptions of the 
 terms Roman-Town and Roman-Town-Law. At the 
 latter of these places were recently appearances of ex- 
 tensive fortifications on a law or hill, which have been 
 ploughed up, and inclosed ; they are supposed to have 
 been Roman works. At Huntly, also, are the remains of 
 some walls that appear to have been part of a fortified 
 place. 
 
 GORDONSTOWN, a village, in the parish of Auch- 
 TERLESS, district of Turriff, county of Aberdeen, 7 
 miles (S.) from Turriff; containing 98 inhabitants. It 
 lies in the eastern part of the parish, a short distance east 
 of the Ythan river; and is a small straggling village. 
 
 GOREBRIDGE, a village, in the parish of Temple, 
 county of Edinburgh, 3 miles (N. E.) from Temple ; 
 
 M^
 
 GOU R 
 
 GOV A 
 
 containing 240 inhabitants. It is situated in a detached 
 portion of the parish between the parishes of Borthwick 
 and Newbattle, and derives its name from a bridge 
 over the Gore burn, a tributary to the South Esk. A 
 considerable increase in its population has latterly taken 
 place, caused by the establishment of the manufacture 
 of gunpowder, mills for which were built at Stobhill, in 
 the vicinity of the village, in the year 1794, these being 
 the first mills of the kind erected in Scotland. The 
 Hawick line of railway passes by Gorebridge, where it 
 has a station, twelve miles distant from the Edinburgh 
 terminus. The inhabitants generally attend the church 
 at Borthwick, which is somewhat nearer than that of 
 Temple. There is a place of worship in the village in 
 connexion with the United Presbyterian Synod. Two 
 schools are held, and here is a good subscription library 
 of about 800 volumes. 
 
 GOURDON, a village, in the parish of Bervie, 
 county of Kincardine, I5 mile (S. by W.) from Ber- 
 vie J containing 390 inhabitants. This is a fishing-vil- 
 lage on the eastern coast, having a small harbour, which, 
 however, is neither convenient nor safe, being difficult 
 of entrance, and much exposed to the violence of the 
 south and east winds. Seven boats belonging to the 
 place, each manned, commonly, by six or seven men, are 
 generally engaged in the cod and haddock fishery ; and 
 about ten larger boats, manned each by five men, are 
 employed in the herring-fishery for two months in the 
 year. Here are large and commodious granaries, from 
 which upwards of 30,000 quarters of grain are annually 
 shipped at the port, which is subsidiary to that of Mon- 
 trose. There are also convenient sheds for coal, lime, 
 and other articles. The eminence called Gourdon Hill is 
 seen by mariners at a great distance out at sea. 
 
 GOUROCK, for a time an ecclesiastical district, in 
 the parish of Innerkip, Lower ward of the county of 
 Renfrew, '2 miles (W. N. W.) from Greenock; contain- 
 ing '2448 inhabitants, of whom 2169 are in the village. 
 This district, which was formed for ecclesiastical pur- 
 poses under act of the General Assembly, is situated 
 on the Firth of Clyde, by which it is bounded on the 
 north ; and is about three miles and a half in length 
 and three miles in breadth. Near the shore of the bay 
 of Gourock the surface is tolerably level; but the ground 
 rises thence gradually towards the south and east, and 
 the higher parts command pleasing views over the Firth, 
 and of the adjacent country, in some directions richly 
 cultivated, and in others boldly romantic. The soil is 
 of moderate fertility ; in several places light and sandy, 
 and in others of better quality. The total number of 
 acres is not precisely known ; about 2000 are arable, 
 2500 uncultivated moor, of which nearly one-half might 
 be rendered profitable, 200 undivided common, and 
 about thirty acres woodland and plantations. Consi- 
 derable improvements have been made in the system of 
 husbandry, furrow-draining has been extensively prac- 
 tised, and the crops are generally favourable and abun- 
 dant. The scenery is enlivened with some agreeable 
 seats and villas. Gourock House is a handsome man- 
 sion, erected on the site of an ancient castle, the remains 
 of which were taken down in I747 ; it is beautifully 
 situated, and the grounds are tastefully laid out, and 
 embellished with flourishing plantations. Several head- 
 lands mark this part of the coast, of which Ironotter 
 Point on the eastern, and Kempock Point on the western 
 531 
 
 shore of the bay, are the principal ; the bay has depth 
 of water sufficient to render it accessible to vessels of 
 the largest class, and a small pier has been constructed 
 for the landing of goods. 
 
 The village of Gourock, situated on the bay, is said to 
 have been the first place in Scotland where the curing 
 of herrings was practised, it having been introduced in 
 I6S8, by Walter Gibson, provost of Glasgow, who built 
 salt-pans for the purpose ; but that trade has long been 
 discontinued, and the inhabitants, though during the 
 season employed in the herring-fishery, are now chiefly 
 engaged in the fishery off the coast. The fish taken are 
 cod, ling, haddock, and whiting, with some few salmon 
 and trout, the proceeds of all which are estimated at £300 
 per annum. There are two sloops, and several smaller 
 boats, belonging to the fishermen of the place. The 
 beach afiFords great facilities for bathing ; and numerous 
 families from Glasgow and Paisley consequently frequent 
 the village in summer, for whose accommodation there 
 are several handsome houses. The manufacture of 
 ropes is carried on extensively by a company, who em- 
 ploy about thirty-five persons ; the quantity of cordage 
 averages ISO tons annually, and the proceeds amount to 
 more than £7500. Gourock church was built in 1832, 
 at an expense of £2286, of which sum £1731 were raised 
 by subscription, and £535 given by General Darroch, 
 who also presented the site ; it is a handsome structure, 
 containing 947 sittings. The minister's stipend is £120, 
 paid from the seat-rents and by General Darroch : pa- 
 trons, the Congregation. The members of the Free 
 Church have also a place of worship. Connected with 
 the church is a parochial library of nearly 600 volumes, 
 but altogether in disuse. A parochial school is sup- 
 ported by the chief landed proprietors ; the master has a 
 salary of £20, but no dwelling-house, and the fees ave- 
 rage £30. 
 
 GOVAN, a parish, which, regarded ecclesiastically, 
 is wholly in the Lower ward of the county of Lanark, 
 and Upper ward of the county of Renfrew ; including 
 the village of Strathbungo, and the former quoad sacra 
 district of Partick ; and containing 7810 inhabitants, of 
 whom 2474 are in the village of Govan, 2 miles (N. W.) 
 from Glasgow. The name of this parish is generally 
 supposed to have been derived from the two Saxon 
 words god and win, " good wine", applied on account of 
 the superior ale for which the place was celebrated, and 
 which, after being kept for several years, approached in 
 flavour to wine. Some, however, derive it from the 
 Gaelic word gamham, pronounced gavan, and signifying 
 "a ditch", used in reference to the river Clyde, which 
 runs through the parish, and which in ancient times was 
 a very narrow stream. The most remote historical in- 
 formation relating to Govan is connected with the 
 removal of Constantine, King of Cornwall, into Scotland. 
 That prince is said to have come from Ireland, after re- 
 signing his crown, among the followers of St. Columba, 
 in the year 565, and to have founded a monastery here, 
 of which he became the first abbot. He is supposed to 
 have been martyred by the inhabitants of Cantyre, who 
 thus resisted his attempts to convert them to Chris- 
 tianity, and afterwards to have been buried in his own 
 monastery. Many of the estates of the parish were, in 
 early times, successively made over as gifts to the Church. 
 David I. gave the lands of Govan to the church of St. 
 Kentigern, otherwise called St. Mungo, at Glasgow ; and 
 
 3Y2
 
 G O V A 
 
 in 1136, when present at the consecration of the cathe- 
 dral of that city, he bestowed a part of the estate of 
 Partick, and subsequently another portion of the same 
 lands, on the see. These grants, with many others, 
 were confirmed by the bulls of several popes ; and Bishop 
 John, who filled the episcopal chair for thirty-two years, 
 made Govan a prebend of Glasgow, the emoluments of 
 which were increased by Herbert, Chancellor of Scotland, 
 who presided as Bishop of Glasgow till 1 164. The lands 
 were consequently long held by tenants under the bishops 
 and archbishops ; but at the Reformation, Walter, cora- 
 mendator of Blantyre, was commissioned to feu the 
 estates, that the tenants, becoming heritable possessors 
 of their several properties, might be encouraged to im- 
 prove them to the utmost. In 1595, the landholders 
 united in procuring a charter from James VI. to confirm 
 this privilege ; and from that time the crown became 
 lessor. Afterwards, the college of Glasgow obtained 
 leases of the lands from the crown, and continued to 
 hold them for upwards of a century, to the year 1825, 
 when, in lieu of the leases, a grant was made to the 
 establishment of an annuity of £800, for fourteen years, 
 by George IV. The heritors still pay feu-duties to the 
 crown, as coming in place of the archbishops. But the 
 parish is not remarkable solely on account of its eccle- 
 siastical history : as containing the Muir of Govan, it 
 was in ancient times the scene of several important poli- 
 tical and military transactions. In 1559, the lords who 
 had confederated together in defence of the Protestant 
 religion, after the treaty between the queen regent and 
 the Protestants, at Leith, on July 24th, suspecting her 
 integrity, resolved to have a meeting with "their kin 
 and friends, upon Govan Muir, beside Glasgow-", for the 
 purpose of providing for exigencies. This meeting, 
 however, the queen regent, by the exercise of no com- 
 mon address, contrived successfully to prevent. The 
 moor is famed for the defeat of Queen Mary's army after 
 her escape from Lochleven Castle. 
 
 The PARISH is about five miles long, and from two to 
 three miles broad. The lands of Haggs, Titwood, and 
 Shields belong to the county of Renfrew : the remainder 
 of Govan is bounded on the north by the parishes of 
 New Kilpatrick, Barony, and Glasgow ; on the south 
 by Cathcart, Eastwood, and the Abbey parish of Paisley ; 
 on the east by Barony, Gorbals, and Rutherglen ; and 
 on the west by Renfrew parish. The surface is diver- 
 sified by gentle undulations and acclivities, the e.\tensive 
 and fertile plain in the centre of the parish being suc- 
 ceeded on each side by gradually rising grounds ; the 
 fields are defined by well-grown hedges, and the river 
 Clyde, and the numerous beautiful villas in different direc- 
 tions, contribute to form an assemblage of very agreeable 
 and interesting scenery. The Clyde, after being joined by 
 the river Kelvin, runs through the centre of the parish, 
 and though not many years ago it was a shallow stream, 
 it is now a channel for ships of 700 tons' burthen, con- 
 veying stores from every part of the world into the 
 harbour of Glasgow. In general the soil is of good 
 qualify, and produces fine crops of grain, as well as of 
 the best potatoes and turnips. The five years' rotation 
 is followed; and the ground is largely supplied with 
 manure from Glasgow, to which it is chiefly indebted 
 for its fertility : wheat and oats are the chief grain, and 
 are grown in considerable quantities. Many improve- 
 ments have been made, in former as well as more recent 
 532 
 
 GO V A 
 
 times, in the agricultural character of the district ; and 
 the celebrated moor, depicted in song as " the carpet of 
 purple heath", now consists of a number of well-inclosed 
 fields, bearing, year after year, as luxuriant crops as are 
 any where to be met with. Similar changes have been 
 effected in other parts, especially about Moss House and 
 Heathery Hall. At White- Incli, the low ground along 
 the north side of the Clyde has been lately enriched, and 
 elevated about ten feet, by soil obtained from the deep- 
 ening and widening of the river, in consequence of which 
 the worth of the land has been nearly doubled. The 
 annual value of real property in Govan is £30,0*0. 
 
 The SUBTERRANEOUS Contents of the parish are 
 chiefly coal, with the strata peculiar to that formation. 
 Several pits are regularly worked, in one of which, at 
 Bellahoustown, on the south of the river, a portion of 
 the layers consists of parrot or cannel coal, which sells 
 at a high price for the purpose of being converted into 
 gas. At Jordanhill and Cartnavel, about fifty fathoms 
 beneath the surface, are sixteen beds of coal, some of 
 them two feet thick, and part being, like the parrot coal, 
 of the finest quality for the gas manufacture. Above 
 the gas-coal, as well as at a lower depth, are numerous 
 seams of ironstone, which vary in thickness from five to 
 twelve inches, and are of excellent quality. The col- 
 lieries of Govan, forming part of the well-known Glas- 
 gow coal-fields, have been long wTought ; and it is 
 supposed that, beneath the seven principal seams now 
 open, lie others, which will afford a plentiful supply if 
 at any time those at present being worked should be 
 exhausted. The surface just above the coal is in general 
 composed of diluvial matter, containing rolled stones, 
 over which are deposits of sand, fine clay, and marine 
 shells. The roots of a number of fossil trees were dis- 
 covered a few years ago at Balgray, standing close to 
 each other in their natural position : two feet only of the 
 trunks were found attached to the roots. 
 
 The population of the parish, which has very consi- 
 derably increased of late years, from the growing pros- 
 perity of Glasgow, is largely employed in the cotton and 
 iron manufactures, and a great number in mines and 
 quarries. In the village of Govan are 340 hand-loom 
 weavers; a dye- work employs 118 hands; and at a 
 small distance from the village is a factory for throw- 
 ing silk, erected in 1824, and which affords occupation 
 to about 250 persons. Near Port-Eglinton is a carpet 
 manufactory, established several years ago, in which 
 554 persons are engaged ; and various large concerns 
 are actively carried on in different parts, occupied in 
 the cotton manufacture. In the neighbourhood of the 
 collieries are iron-works, containing several blast-fur- 
 naces, which produce many hundred tons of pig-iron 
 annually ; and near these is a bar-iron manufactory be- 
 longing to the same proprietor, producing upwards of 
 400 tons weekl}'. Ship-building is carried on. There 
 is a fishery for salmon on the Clyde, the rent of which 
 was formerly £326; but it has fallen since 1812 to £60 
 per annum, in consequence, among other causes, of the 
 erection of the numerous manufactories on the banks of 
 the river. In the villages of Govan and Partick are 
 post-offices, which communicate with Glasgow twice a 
 day. Four great roads pass through the parish, one of 
 which runs from Glasgow to Paisley ; another leads to 
 Kilmarnock and Ayr, a third to Port-Glasgow and 
 Greenock through Renfrew, and the fourth to the West 
 
 I
 
 G O V A 
 
 GR A H 
 
 Highlands by the town of Dumbarton. The Glasgow 
 and Johnstone canal also intersects the parish, and a 
 branch of the Forth and Clyde canal touches its northern 
 boundary. A boat, capable of conveying horses and 
 carriages, plies upon the ferry that connects the two 
 parts of the parish at the village of Govan : steam-boats, 
 also, land and take in passengers here. The Pollock 
 and Govan railwayjoins the mineral fields on the south- 
 east of Glasgow with the city and the harbour, and the 
 Greenock and Ayr railroad runs for about three miles 
 through the parish of Govan. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes Govan is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Glasgow, synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr. At the time of the Reformation, the temporal 
 immunities of the church came into the possession of 
 the college of Glasgow. The Regent Morton had offered 
 the benefice to his uncle, Andrew Melville, principal of 
 the college, on condition that he would not press his 
 views of ecclesiastical polity ; but this compromise being 
 refused by Melville, the regent conveyed the tempo- 
 ralities to the college, devolving upon the principal the 
 obligation of serving the cure ; and since that time the 
 university has held the patronage. The stipend of the 
 minister is £315, with a good manse, standing near 
 the church, and a glebe of seven acres, valued at £25 
 per annum. Govan church, situated at the west end of 
 the village, and about 100 yards from the river Clyde, 
 was built in 1826, and is a plain structure containing 
 1096 sittings : the design of the tower and spire was 
 taken from the church of Stratford-upon-Avon, in Eng- 
 land. The churchyard is raised several feet above the 
 level of the adjacent ground, and is surrounded by a 
 double row of venerable elms. There are places of 
 worship belonging to the Free Church, the United Pres- 
 byterian Church, and Roman Catholics. The parochial 
 school is situated in the village of Govan ; the master 
 receives the maximum salary, with £1. 13. 4. from Glas- 
 gow college, £1. 19- accruing from an ancient bequest 
 by George Hutcheson of Lambhill, one of the founders 
 of Hutcheson's Hospital, and £36 arising from a sum 
 of £200 left by Mr. Abraham Hill in I757. Mr. Hill 
 was educated in the school as a poor orphan, and his 
 gift was invested in ten acres of land, now producing 
 the above sum, for which ten children are taught gra- 
 tuitously. The master has also £18 fees, a good house, 
 and an allowance in lieu of a garden. An infants' school 
 was instituted at Partick, in 1837, on a very extensive 
 scale 3 and other schools are supported in different parts 
 of the parish. There is a good parochial library, under 
 the management of the trustees of Mrs. Thom, its 
 founder, and containing above 600 volumes ; also a 
 savings' bank, and several friendly societies. As already 
 observed, the parish of Govan, ecclesiastically, is situated 
 entirely in the Lower ward of Lanarkshire, and Upper 
 ward of Renfrewshire, and contains only 7810 inhabit- 
 ants. In a civil point of view, it is more extensive, and 
 includes part of the suburbs of the city of Glasgow ; thus 
 regarded, it includes a suburban district attached quoad 
 sacra to the parish of Gorbals, and altogether contains a 
 population of more than 45,000. 
 
 The ruins of the once celebrated Hospital of Polmadie 
 were, at the close of the last century, among the most 
 interesting antiquities in the neighbourhood of Glasgow. 
 This hospital was built at a very remote period, for the 
 reception of persons of both sexes to be maintained for 
 533 
 
 life ; and was dedicated to St. John. The church and 
 temporalities of Strathblane were early annexed to it, 
 with part of the lands of Little Govan ; and these posses- 
 sions, with many important privileges, were confirmed 
 to the establishment by Alexander HL, Robert Bruce, 
 and several others. In the year 1427, Bishop Cameron, 
 with the consent of the chapter, erected the hospital, 
 and the church of Strathblane, into a prebend, with a 
 provision that the person collated to the office should 
 support a vicar in the parish of Strathblane, and pay 
 four choristers to sing in the cathedral. St. Ninian's 
 Hospital, founded by Lady Lochow, in the fourteenth 
 century, for the reception of persons afflicted with 
 leprosy, occupied a piece of ground called St. Ninian's 
 croft, where part of Hutchesontown (ecclesiastically in 
 the parish of Gorbals) at present stands ; and close to 
 its site a number of human bones were not long since " 
 found, pointing out the locality as is supposed of the 
 lepers' churchyard. On the south of the Clyde, oppo- 
 site the ferry- house, is an ancient circular hill, thought 
 to have been the sepulchre of some celebrated hero ; and 
 in another part of the parish is the picturesque ruin of 
 Hagg's Castle, built in 1585, by an ancestor of Sir John 
 Maxwell of Pollock. — See Gorbals, Hutchesontown, 
 &c. 
 
 GOWAN-BANK, a hamlet, in the parish of St. 
 Vigean's, county of Forfar ; with 72 inhabitants. 
 
 GOWKHALL, a village, in the parish of Carnock, 
 district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, 1 mile (E.) 
 from Carnock ; containing 196 inhabitants. It is situ- 
 ated in the eastern part of the parish, a short distance 
 north of the high road from Dunfermline to Carnock ; 
 and is one of three villages the population of which is 
 chiefly engaged in manufactures. 
 
 GOWKSHILL, a village, in the parish of Cockpen, 
 county of Edinburgh ; containing 219 inhabitants. 
 
 GR^MSAY ISLE, in the parish of Hoy, county of 
 Orkney ; containing 214 inhalaitants. It is one of the 
 Orkney group, and lies about a mile and a half south 
 from Stromness ; in length it is nearly two miles, and in 
 breadth one. The whole of the island is level, and the 
 lands are either cultivated for the production of grain, 
 or suffered to remain in old grass for the pasturage of 
 sheep and cattle. Through almost its entire extent runs 
 a bed of schistus, or slate, used for the covering of houses. 
 The inhabitants excel in fishing. The principal disad- 
 vantage under which they labour is the scarcity of fuel. 
 Graemsay was formerly a vicarage, but is now united to 
 Hoy, which see. 
 
 GRAHAMSTON, a village, in the parish of Fal- 
 kirk, county of Stirling, 1 mile (N.) from Falkirk. 
 This village derives its name from Sir John the Graham, 
 who was killed here in the battle which Wallace fought 
 with Edward I. in 1298. It forms part of the suburbs 
 of Falkirk, and is included within the burgh, and situ- 
 ated on the south bank of the Forth and Clyde canal, 
 over which is a drawbridge connecting it with Bains- 
 ford. The houses are handsomely built, chiefly of stone, 
 and of modern appearance. There are numerous shops, 
 stored with various kinds of merchandise ; and the 
 labouring portion of the inhabitants are chiefly employed 
 in the Falkirk iron-works, and in those of the Carron 
 Company. From its situation on the canal, the place 
 carries on a considerable trade in timber and in grain ; 
 and numerous vessels arrive here with dried fish for the
 
 G R A I 
 
 G R AI 
 
 market of Falkirk, where it finds a ready sale. A post- 
 office, subordinate to that of Falkirk, has been esta- 
 blished ; and there are several schools in the village. 
 
 GRAHAMSTOWN, a manufacturing village, in the 
 parish of Neilston, Upper ward of the county of Ren- 
 frew, 3 miles distant (S. S. E.) from the town of Pais- 
 ley; containing 706 inhabitants. Th's village is indebted 
 for its origin to the introduction of the cotton manufac- 
 ture into the district about the year 1790, and to the 
 erection of an extensive spinning-mill in 1801, by Mr. 
 Graham, from whom the village takes its name. It Is 
 neatly built, and principally inhabited by persons em- 
 ployed in the cotton-works. 
 
 GRAITNEY, or Gretna, a parish, in the county of 
 Dumfries, 9^ miles (\. by W. ) from Carlisle, and 309 
 (N. W. by N.) from London; containing I76I inhabit- 
 ants. The derivation of the name is doubtful ; but it 
 is usually traced to the words Great knoice, descriptive 
 of a hill standing at the distance of about a quarter of a 
 mile from the church. This district is chiefly memo- 
 rable for the many bloody feuds of which it was for- 
 merly the scene as part of the frontier land of Scotland, 
 and the celebration of which in tales and songs has 
 scarcely at this time altogether passed away. The parish 
 is skirted on the east by the river Sark ; and the lands 
 lying between that river and the Esk, now forming the 
 English parish of Kirkandrews, were for nianv ages 
 debateable ground, being common to both England and 
 Scotland. These lands extended eight miles in length 
 and four in breadth, and were long held by a kind of 
 lawless banditti,whose chief employment was rapine and 
 smuggling. In the year 1552, a line of demarcation was 
 agreed upon by the sovereigns of the respective kingdoms ; 
 but notwithstanding this, the habits of the people con- 
 tinued nearly the same until the union of the crowns 
 under James VI., from which time the state of the popu- 
 lation gradually improved. 
 
 The PARISH is six miles in length and three in 
 breadth, and contains about 11,000 acres. It is bounded 
 on the north by the parishes of Kirkpatrick-Fleming 
 and Halfmorton ; on the south by the Solway Firth ; 
 on the east by the county of Cumberland ; and on the 
 west by the parish of Dornock. The surface is generally 
 level towards the south and west; but towards the 
 east and north it is diversified by many gentle accli- 
 vities, of which Graitney, the highest, rises about 250 
 feet above the sea. From this eminence is obtained a 
 beautiful and extensive view of the valleys of the Esk 
 and the Eden, the Solway Firth, and the coast of Cum- 
 berland with St. Bees, in a southern direction, and also 
 of the mountains of Dumfriesshire and Northumber- 
 land. The eastern portion of the parish, from the 
 number of its hedge-rows, has the appearance of being 
 well wooded ; and the lands in this quarter are thickly 
 interspersed with ash, oak, and plane trees. These, with 
 the laburnum, give a pleasing variety to the scenery, 
 and by their fine and luxuriant growth indicate the 
 fostering power of a congenial soil. The whole southern 
 boundary of the parish is formed by the Solway, whose 
 flat shore consists of sand and clay. The only part of 
 the coast approximating to the character of a bay is the 
 curve between Redkirk and Tordoff points, the latter of 
 which is about two miles from Bowness on the opposite 
 shore. The Firth is between four and five miles across 
 in the widest part, and is navigable as far as Sarkfoot, 
 534 
 
 in this parish, for vessels of 120 tons' burthen. In this 
 estuary the tide flows with amazing rapidity, and rises, 
 at its spring, twenty feet above the low- water mark ; 
 when it recedes, the streams of the rivers Esk and Eden, 
 which run into the Solway from Dumfriesshire and Cum- 
 berland, are seen with a wide bed of intermediate sand, 
 and the Firth appears like a sandy waste, for a distance 
 of forty miles, to the south-western extremity of Dum- 
 friesshire, where the river Nith joins it. There are se- 
 veral landing-places along the shore of the parish, but the 
 navigation of the Firth is dangerous to those not ac- 
 quainted with the soundings. The Kirtle stream divides 
 the parish into two nearly equal portions. There are 
 excellent salmon-fisheries on the coast, and sturgeon, cod, 
 and herrings are occasionally caught : salmon ascend the 
 rivers for spawning, in the beginning of October, and re- 
 turn early in March. 
 
 Near the sea the soil is a rich loam, with a subsoil 
 of deep strong clay, and has the appearance of having 
 been transported hither by the tides, which formerly 
 came much higher up than at present. Further inland, 
 the earth partakes more of the nature of clay and gravel, 
 resting upon large hills ot sand. Portions of peat-moss 
 are to be seen in different places, in which the remains 
 of oak-trees are embedded ; and in some of them silver 
 coins have been discovered, without a date, but bearing 
 the scarcely legible marks of Canterbury and London. 
 About 10,000 acres are cultivated, or occasionally in 
 tillage ; 300 acres have never been cultivated, and sixty 
 are planted with wood. AU kinds of green crops and 
 of grain are produced, oats being the chief crop of the 
 latter ; and considerable numbers of every sort of live 
 stock are kept. The most improved system of hus- 
 bandry is followed : the manure in use comprises dung, 
 guano, and lime, the last brought from several of the 
 neighbouring parishes. The farms have been consider- 
 ably enlarged, and the superior method of cultivation 
 which has been pursued has nearly tripled the worth of 
 the land since the year 1790, the annual value of real 
 property in the parish now amounting to £6069. The 
 prevailing rock is sandstone, through which many excel- 
 lent springs of water find a passage. 
 
 Among the villages in the parish is that of Gretna, 
 where a weekly cattle-market was formerly held, and which 
 was a burgh of barony ; the market-cross was standing 
 till within these few years. The ancient mansion of 
 Graitney Hall, in which one of the landowners once re- 
 sided, has been fitted up in an elegant and commodious 
 manner as an inn, where every accommodation may be 
 had as at the best inns in England. The population are 
 partly engaged in agriculture : about 600 persons are 
 cotton-weavers, employed by Carlisle houses, and who 
 receive the yarn regularly every fortnight. Vessels of 
 100 tons arrive at various places along the shore from 
 the ports of Cumberland, bringing coal to the amount of 
 600 tons yearly, together with about an equal quantity 
 of slate. Grain and potatoes are largely exported to 
 Liverpool and other places on the coast of Lancashire. 
 Till the commencement of the present century, an exten- 
 sive contraband trade was carried on with the Isle of 
 Man ; but this traffic, with all its injurious consequences, 
 has been abolished. The turnpike-roads between Glas- 
 gow and Carlisle, and between Carlisle and Portpatrick, 
 run through the parish ; and the old road to Carlisle 
 crosses the Glasgow road at the village of Gretna, where
 
 GRAN 
 
 GRAN 
 
 is a post-office, connected with that of Carlisle. There 
 are two bridges over the Sark, and one over the Kirtle. 
 Great facility of intercourse is also atforded by the Cale- 
 donian railway, which passes through the parish, and 
 crosses the river Sark into England by a fine bridge of 
 two arches. This railwaj' is joined at Springfield, in the 
 parish, by the Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle railway. 
 A cattle-market is held in June, and fairs on the 15th of 
 September, the first Thursday after Falkirk tryst in Oc- 
 tober, and on the second Thursday in November. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Annan, synod of Dumfries ; 
 patron, the Earl of Mansfield. The stipend of the mi- 
 nister is £237 : the manse has lately been enlarged and 
 repaired, and is now a comfortable residence ; the glebe 
 consists of about sixteen acres, valued at £28 per annum. 
 Graitney church was built in 1*90, and is a commodious 
 building capable of containing SOO persons. There is a 
 meeting-house at the village of Rigg, belonging to the 
 United Presbyterian Church. Two parochial schools are 
 supported, in which the usual branches of education are 
 taught, and the masters of which have each £25 a year, 
 with fees amounting to about £24 and £20 respectively. 
 A friendly society was instituted more than fifty years 
 ago. There are the ruins of several square towers in the 
 parish, the relics of ancient times, raised for the defence 
 of the inhabitants against the English borderers ; the 
 walls were of great thickness, the doors of massive iron, 
 and within were caves for the safe custody of cattle, &c. 
 Redkirk was formerly a separate parish ; but its church, 
 situated at Redkirk point, was entirely swept away by 
 the repeated encroachment of the tide. The remains of 
 a Druidical temple are still visible on the farm of Old 
 Graitney, and there are the remains of several old camps 
 in the neighbourhood. This being the nearest and most 
 easily accessible point in Scotland from the sister king- 
 dom, it has long been a place for fugitive marriages, first 
 celebrated here by a man named Paisley, a tobacconist, 
 whose original residence was on a green between Gretna 
 and Springfield, to the latter of which villages he removed 
 in 1782. It is said that between 300 and 400 marriages 
 used at one time to be annually celebrated in the neigh- 
 bourhood by rival "priests", for the most part func- 
 tionaries of the lowest class, who accosted parties as 
 they passed, and officiated for a very small charge. An 
 attempt was made in the General Assembly, in 1826, to 
 suppress this description of marriage, but without suc- 
 cess. Paisley died at a great age, in 1814. 
 
 GRANGE, a parish, in the county of Banff, 3 miles 
 (E. by N.) from Keith; containing 1661 inhabitants. 
 This place originally formed a part of the parish of Keith, 
 from which it was separated in the year 1618. It took 
 its name from the circumstance of its being a coun- 
 try residence belonging to the abbots of Kinloss, to 
 whom it was given by William the Lion in the twelfth 
 century. Attracted by the beauty of the place, at that 
 time mostly under wood, the abbots had a castle here, 
 situated upon an eminence partly natural and partly 
 artificial, and overlooking rich and extensive haughs, 
 enlivened and refreshed for several miles by the mean- 
 derings of the picturesque Isla. In the neighbourhood 
 is the Gallow-hill, the spot upon which criminals were 
 executed within the local jurisdiction. At the time of 
 the Reformation, the abbot, anticipating the change 
 about to take place, feued out the district into many 
 535 
 
 small properties, of which that of Edingight still belongs 
 to the descendant of the original feuar, and about four- 
 fifths of the others to Lord Fife, who inherits from his 
 ancestor, Alexander Duff of Braco, another of the first 
 feuars. The remaining portion is in the possession of the 
 Earl of Seafield. 
 
 The PARISH is six miles in length and five in breadth, 
 and comprises about 20,000 acres, of which a large por- 
 tion is under cultivation : there are extensive plantations 
 of young wood. The surface is much diversified, and 
 consists of both high and low ground, the latter com- 
 prehending most of the cultivated parts. On the east is 
 the Knock, an eminence rising 1600 feet above the level 
 of the sea, and which, though cultivated to a consider- 
 able height, is chiefly covered with deep peat and heather, 
 the moss extending at the summit to a depth of eight or 
 ten feet. A very fine and extensive view may be obtained 
 from it. In the dry summer of 1826, its sides were sur- 
 rounded by a conflagration, destroying the combustible 
 portion of the surface ; but it has not been ascertained 
 in what way the fire originated. There are also several 
 lofty hills in the northern part of the parish : in the 
 southern division are two called the Mickle and Little 
 Balloch, ornamented around their base with wood ; and 
 in the centre is the Sillyearn, where there is a large and 
 thriving plantation. The scenery is much indebted for 
 its variety to its sylvan beauties, and to the course of the 
 interesting stream of the Isla, on the south of which a 
 wide belt of larch and Scotch fir, of recent growth, espe- 
 cially improves the prospect. The Isla is rendered still 
 more striking in pictorial effect by an ancient bridge, 
 erected by a Mr. Christie, to render the church acces- 
 sible to the residents of Cantly. This benevolent act 
 was notified, and the memory of it transmitted to poste- 
 rity, by an inscription on a stone once forming part of 
 the bridge, but now supposed to be submerged in the 
 flood below, consisting of these words : " Built by Alex- 
 ander Christie, tenant in Cantly, for the glory of God, 
 and the good of the people of Grange". A provision 
 was made for the repairs of the bridge by the deposit of 
 100 merks in the hands of the laird of Edingight; and 
 though this sum is supposed to have been long since ex- 
 hausted, an addition was made to the structure in the year 
 1783, by erecting, and cementing to it, another bridge of 
 the same size, to render it passable by carts, the first being 
 only for foot-passengers. The cost of this was defrayed 
 by the transfer, on the part of the patron, of the vacant 
 stipend of that year. 
 
 The SOIL in some parts is very good, particularly on 
 the banks of the Isla, where the ground, having a fine 
 southern exposure, is tolerably dry, and produces early 
 crops. In other parts, especially in the northern quarter, 
 the soil is clayey, cold, and wet, with an impervious sub- 
 soil, and frequently of very poor quality. Oats forms the 
 staple crop of grain, and the green crops consist of rye- 
 grass and white and red clover. Husbandry is on a very 
 respectable footing, and the six-shift course is that chiefly 
 followed : bone-manure is much used for turnip-soils, 
 and most of the larger farms have threshing-mills, and 
 are inclosed with limestone-dykes and good hedges. The 
 portion under tillage is gradually increasing in extent; 
 and many of the lower parts of the heathy and mossy 
 hill of Aulmore, which is interspersed with numerous 
 cottages of the poor, have been brought into cultivation. 
 Substantial embankments, also, have been raised on some
 
 GRAN 
 
 of the farms, against the fioodings of the Isla ; and on 
 the better cultivated lands, all the implements of agricul- 
 ture are of the best description, and the horses and cattle 
 of a superior stock. Limestone of very fine quality is 
 abundant, and is constantly worked to a great extent ; 
 large lime-works are in operation, and many of the small 
 farms have lime-kilns. At a place called Seggiecrook is 
 a bed of plumbago. The deep and wide-spreading mosses 
 supply abundance of peat for fuel ; and the residue of 
 the woods that once beautified the locality is found 
 deeply embedded, comprising thick logs of oak and fir. 
 The annual value of real property in Grange is £5299- 
 The mansion of Edingight, in the parish, is an ancient 
 structure irregularly built, standing on an estate orna- 
 mented with fifty or sixty acres of young plantations. 
 Braco was formerly the residence of the ancient family 
 of Duff. There is a hamlet named Nethermills ; and the 
 parish is traversed by the road from Keith to Banff : 
 the produce, consisting of grain, pork, and fat-cattle, is 
 shipped chiefly at Banff, for the London market. 
 
 Grange is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Strath- 
 bogie, synod of Moray, and in the patronage of the Earl 
 of Fife : the minister's stipend is £165, with a manse, 
 and a glebe of five acres, valued at £; per annum. The 
 church was built in 1795, and contains 616 sittings ; it 
 is situated within a mile of the parish boundary, on the 
 site of the old castle occupied by the abbots of Kinloss. 
 There is a place of worship for members of the Free 
 Church, and another for the United Presbyterian Church. 
 The parochial school affords instruction in the usual 
 branches ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house, 
 and about £6 fees. He also receives a bequest of £1. -2. 
 a year; the interest of £100 left by the late Rev. Mr. 
 Bruce, minister of Dunbar ; and a portion of the Dick 
 bequest. There is likewise a General Assembly's school, 
 the master of which has £25 per annum, with a small 
 piece of land : the premises were built by subscription, 
 in 1827, through the exertions of the minister, the Rev. 
 W. Duff ; and the tenants on the estate subscribe for the 
 rent of the master's allotment. The Earl of Fife derives 
 his title of Baron Braco from the farm of that name. 
 
 GRANGE, a hamlet, in the parish and district of St. 
 Andrew's, county of Fife, \^ mile (S. by E.) from St. 
 Andrew's ; containing 84 inhabitants. It lies a short 
 distance west of the high road from Anstruther Wester 
 to St. Andrew's. 
 
 GRANGE, a hamlet, in the parish of Errol, county 
 of Perth, 2 miles (X. E. by N.) from Errol ; containing 
 68 inhabitants. It is stated on the road from Errol to 
 Invergowrie, and is one of several small hamlets in the 
 parish (besides the village of Errol) in which the linen- 
 cloth manufacture engages a part of the population. 
 
 GRANGEMOUTH, for a time a quoad sacra parish, 
 in the county of Stirling ; comprising the sea-port 
 town of Grangemouth in the parish of Falkirk, and also 
 part of Polmont parish ; the whole containing 1/22 in- 
 habitants, of whom 1488 are in the town, 3 miles (N. E.) 
 from Falkirk. This place derives its name from its 
 original situation at the mouth of the Grange burn, a 
 stream flowing round the grange of the ancient abbey of 
 Abbotshaugh, but now, by a recent diversion of its course, 
 falling into the river Carron at a considerable distance to 
 the east. The town was commenced in the year 1777, 
 by Sir Laurence Dundas, and is situated at the eastern 
 extremity of the Forth and Clyde canal. The streets are 
 536 
 
 GRAN 
 
 regularly formed, and the houses well built and of hand- 
 some appearance ; the environs are pleasant, and the 
 place has generally a cheerful and prepossessing aspect. 
 Its trade has been progressively increasing since the 
 formation of the harbour, and in 1810 a custom-house 
 was established here. The trade consists principally in 
 the exportation of coal, glass, and bricks, to Russia, 
 Sweden, and Norway ; pig and wrought iron to Den- 
 mark ; coal, soap, woollens, and pig-iron to Prussia ; 
 coal, pig and cast iron, and cotton manufactures, to 
 Holland ; pig and cast iron to Germany ; coal, pig-iron, 
 glass, and bricks, to France, Portugal, Italy, and Turkey ; 
 glass, and woollen and cotton manufactures, to 'Van 
 Diemen's Land ; coal, bricks, cordage, woollens, and 
 cottons, to Canada and New Brunswick ; and coal and 
 beer to Brazil. The imports are chiefly corn, tallow, 
 flax, hemp, matting, tar, bristles, and wooden wares, 
 from Russia ; manganese ore, pitch, and linseed-cakes, 
 from Sweden ; corn from Denmark and Germany ; corn, 
 fla.x, timber, and wooden wares, from Prussia ; bark, 
 cheese, madder, and geneva, from Holland ; and timber 
 from Canada and New Brunswick. In a recent year the 
 number of vessels that cleared outwards to foreign ports 
 was 615, of the aggregate burthen of 61,979 tons ; and 
 the number that entered inwards from foreign ports was 
 148, of 21,145 tons : the amount of duties paid at the 
 custom-house was £20,000. This amount of duties, 
 however, does not show the full trade of the place, as a 
 large part of the goods imported was removed under bond 
 to Glasgow, where the duties were paid. The number 
 of vessels registered as belonging to the port, in the 
 same year, was fifty-two, of 7270 tons' aggregate burthen. 
 A considerable coasting-trade is also carried on here ; 
 and a very extensive inland trade is pursued by means 
 of the Forth and Clyde canal, which is navigable for 
 vessels of ninety tons from this place to Port-Dundas, 
 near Glasgow, and also to the Clyde by Bowling bay : 
 the number of vessels that passed along the canal in a 
 late year was 2959. The custom-house establishment 
 consists of a collector, comptroller, clerk, two land- 
 waiters, six tide-waiters, and a locker ; and the oBBcers 
 of the canal company here, are a collector, an overseer 
 of works, and a harbour-master. 
 
 The harbour and quays are situated near the mouth of 
 the river Carron, at its junction with the Forth and Clyde 
 canal. Considerable improvements have been recently 
 made under the superintendence of Sir John Macneill, 
 civil engineer, of London, employed for that purpose by 
 the late Earl of Zetland and the governor and council of 
 the canal company. According to the plan adopted, 
 the channel of the Grange burn has been changed to the 
 eastward, and a spacious wet-dock and entrance-lock, 
 east of the harbour, have been constructed : the founda- 
 tion stone was laid on the 2Sth of June, 1838, the day 
 of Her Majesty's coronation, and the work was opened 
 for the purposes of trade on the 12th of July, 1S43. The 
 dock is capable of receiving seventy sail of merchantmen, 
 and steamers of the largest class can be admitted, the 
 entrance-lock being 250 feet in length, fifty-five feet and a 
 half wide, and twenty-four feet deep. The timber-basin 
 has been very much enlarged ; and a canal, fifteen feet in 
 depth, forms a communication between it and the wet-dock 
 and canal. An embankment, also, has been raised from 
 the large lock to the entrance of the river Carron on the 
 south-east side, and another on the north-west side has 
 
 i
 
 GRAN 
 
 GRAN 
 
 been more recently completed, so that traders drawing 
 nine feet are now able to enter and depart at low water. 
 Thus have the local advantages of the port been rendered 
 available to its improvement, and the extension of its 
 commerce. Ship-building is carried on with success ; 
 and there is a graving-dock, which at spring tides has a 
 depth of fourteen feet : it was constructed by Lord 
 Dundas in 1811, and is capable of receiving two vessels 
 of 300 tons' burthen. The first steam-boat built here, 
 was launched in 1S39 as a towing- vessel for the port of 
 Memel : the vessels generally built at this place vary 
 from ninety to 250 tons. The manufacture of sails and 
 ropes is also extensive, and considerable quantities are 
 exported to the colonies. The distance from the quay to 
 the farthest beacon at the mouth of the Carron, is nearly 
 a mile and a half : vessels are partly conducted by the 
 Carron pilots stationed here under the Trinity House of 
 Leith, and partly towed by steam-boats. 
 
 The parochial district that was for a time attached to 
 the port, was separated for ecclesiastical purposes soon 
 after the erection of a church here in 1837. It com- 
 prised about 1300 acres, of which 100, forming the de- 
 mesne of Kerse House, a seat of the Earl of Zetland, are 
 ornamented with thriving plantations, and the remainder 
 are divided into farms of from sixty to 1'20 acres each. 
 The surface is generally flat, and the soil almost uniformly 
 a rich alluvial clay, with a small intermixture of fine 
 white sand ; the lands are well cultivated, and the crops 
 are usually favourable. Kerse House, the principal 
 mansion in the district, is surrounded with thriving 
 plantations, and there are a few trees around some of 
 the farm-houses ; but otherwise there is little wood in 
 the neighbourhood. The church was erected by the late 
 earl, and is situated near Kerse House ; it is a handsome 
 structure in the Norman style of architecture, and con- 
 tains 700 sittings, exclusively of the front gallery. In 
 the year 1843, this edifice, with the consent of the present 
 Earl of Zetland, passed into the hands of the members 
 of the Free Church, of whom there is a considerable con- 
 gregation. The only other place of worship is a small 
 one for Baptists. Those who belong to other denomi- 
 nations are connected with places of worship at Falkirk. 
 Schools for boys and girls, with dwelling-houses for the 
 master and mistress, and a room which is used as a 
 library, were erected by the late Lady Dundas, in 1827. 
 The master has a salary of £10, and the mistress of £5, 
 paid by the Earl of Zetland, with an allowance for the 
 gratuitous instruction of poor children ; and the fees 
 average £40 and £20 per annum, respectively. 
 
 GRANGEPANS, a village, in the parish of Carri- 
 DEN, county of Linlithgow, i a mile (E. by S.) from 
 Borrowstounness ; containing .517 inhabitants. It is 
 situated on the south shore of the Firth of Forth, and 
 nearly equidistant from Borrowstounness and Bridge- 
 ness. The place has been for some time a seat of the 
 salt manufacture, and although the trade in the article 
 has been much reduced, yet in 1834 there were six pans 
 in operation, producing annually about 23,000 bushels ; 
 in 1843 the number of pans had decreased to four. In 
 the village is also a malting establishment; and until 
 lately the manufacture of sal-ammoniac was carried on. 
 The mansion-house of Grange is of some antiquity, and, 
 having undergone repair, is now occupied by a tenant. 
 The coast road from Borrowstounness to Bridgeness 
 passes through the village. 
 Vol. I.— 537 
 
 GRANTON, a growing town, in the parish of Cra- 
 MOND, county of Edinburgh, 2| miles (N. W.) from 
 Edinburgh. This place, formerly remarkable only as 
 the spot where the English troops under the Earl of 
 Hertford disembarked in the year 1544, now claims im- 
 portance for its magnificent and extensive pier. That 
 truly national work was erected, at his sole expense, by 
 the Duke of Buccleuch, who is proprietor of the estate 
 of Caroline Park, formerly called Granton. It was com- 
 menced in November, 1835, and was partially opened 
 on the 28th of June, 1838, the day of the coronation of 
 Her Majesty, by Lord John Scott, brother of his Grace, 
 in the presence of an immense concourse of spectators ; 
 and in commemoration of the day, one of the jetties is 
 named the " Victoria ". Vessels and steamers of the 
 largest size can approach the pier, which is 1700 feet in 
 length, and varies in breadth from eighty to 160 feet : 
 it has a massive wall with occasional entrances to each 
 side of the pier, running up the centre ; and the whole 
 is of the most solid and beautiful masonry. The Victoria 
 jetty, on the west side, extends ninety feet ; on the east 
 side is a jetty of similar dimensions ; and two others are 
 at the distance of about 350 feet seawards. There are 
 also two slips for shipping cattle ; and a lighthouse at 
 the extremity of the pier. On the Queen's visit to this 
 part of her dominions in 1842, Granton pier was the 
 place of Her Majesty's landing, on the 1st of September, 
 and of her embarkation, on her return to England, on 
 the 15th of the same month. In July, 1844, an act was 
 obtained for the extension of the Edinburgh and New- 
 haven railway to Granton ; the line forms part of the 
 Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway, and in 1849 the 
 proprietors of that great railway obtained an act for the 
 construction of a pier and other works here. They had 
 previously, in 1847, procured an act vesting in them the 
 pier at Burntisland, and the ferry between Burntisland 
 and Granton. The company's steamers ply regularly 
 across the Firth of Forth, in connexion with the trains ; 
 and large moveable slips have been recently erected at 
 Granton and Burntisland, by means of which, in con- 
 nexion with a steam-vessel of peculiar construction, 
 great facilities are afforded for the transmission of goods, 
 which are now conveyed across without removal from the 
 trucks. The vessel, or floating railway, as it may be 
 called, is 175 feet long by fifty-four feet all over, and is 
 propelled by two powerful engines, with paddle-shafts 
 unconnected. Upon the spacious deck of this steamer 
 are laid three lines of railway, capable of accommodating 
 a train of from thirty to forty loaded trucks. An ele- 
 gant and commodious inn has been some years erected 
 by the Duke of Buccleuch, and there is already the 
 nucleus of a handsome town and sea-port. The most 
 direct road from Edinburgh to Granton is by Inverleith 
 row, at the head of which is the new road, on the left, 
 through Wardie grounds. 
 
 GRANTOWN, a town, in the parish of Cromdale, 
 county of Inverness, 135 miles (N. by W.) from Edin- 
 burgh; containing about 1000 inhabitants. This place, 
 which is situated about half a mile north of the river 
 Spey, was founded upon an uncultivated moor, by^ir 
 James Grant of Grant, Bart., in I766, since which it has 
 risen to a flourishing condition, and become one of the 
 neatest and most interesting towns, in appearance, in the 
 north of Scotland. It contains several good shops ; and 
 in its centre is a spacious square, 7 00 feet in length and 
 
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 ISO in breadth, on the south side of which is the Spey- 
 side Orphan Hospital, built in 1824, with money left by 
 Lady Grant of Monymusk. This charity is supported 
 from a fund amounting to nearly £200 per annum, which 
 has increased to the present sum by additions from the 
 Grant family : the children are about thirty in number, 
 and are boarded, clothed, and educated. Candidates 
 must be natives of the parishes of Cromdale, Abernethy, 
 Duthil, Inveraven, or Knockando. A branch of the Na- 
 tional Bank of Scotland was established in 1829, and a 
 branch of the Caledonian Bank in 1839 ; there is also a 
 prison in the town. The post-office communicates daily 
 with Carr-bridge, Forres, and Ballindalloch ; and a good 
 road runs from the place to Keith, and another to Forres. 
 There are four annual markets, exclusive of cattle-trysts ; 
 cattle are purchased here by graziers for the southern 
 markets, and much traffic is also carried on with the 
 surrounding districts. A church was built in 1802, a 
 little to the north of the town, containing accommodation 
 for nearly 1000 persons ; and the parochial minister offi- 
 ciated here and at the church at Cromdale alternately, 
 till the year 1835, when an ordained minister was ap- 
 pointed to this station, comprehending the old parish of 
 Inverallan. There is also a place of worship for Baptists. 
 A grammar school was built a few years since by the 
 proprietor, from whom the master receives a salary of 
 £25 per annum : in addition to the usual branches, in- 
 struction is given in the classics and mathematics. 
 
 GRASSHOUSES OF THORNTON, a hamlet, in the 
 parish of Glammis, county of Forfar ; containing 7-1 
 inhabitants. 
 
 GRAYSTONE, a hamlet, in the parish of Carmylie, 
 county of Forfar, 4 miles (S. by E.) from Letham ; con- 
 taining 79 inhabitants. It lies about a mile westward 
 of the high road from Monikie to Brechin ; and is one 
 of several small hamlets, the largest of which contains 
 about twenty houses. 
 
 GREAT CUMBRAY.— See Cumbray, Great.— 
 And all places having a similar distinguishing prefix, will be 
 found under the proper name. 
 
 GREEN HOLM, an isle, in the parish of North- 
 MAViNE, county of Shetland. It lies a short distance 
 north of the main land of Northmavine, between Fetha- 
 land point and Romna Stacks, and is uninhabited. 
 
 GREEN HOLM, an isle, in the parish of Tingwall, 
 county of Shetland. This is an islet of very inconsi- 
 derable extent, one of the smallest of the Shetland group, 
 situated about a mile south-west of Scallowaj', a sea-port 
 village on the main land of the parish. Green Holm is 
 uninhabited. 
 
 GREEN HOLM, MUCKLE and LITTLE, two isles, 
 in the parish of Eday, county of Orkney. They lie to 
 the south of the island of Eday, about a mile distant 
 from Waruess point. The larger is appropriated to the 
 pasturage of cattle and sheep ; the smaller is very in- 
 considerable, and both are uninhabited. 
 
 GREENFND, a village, in the parish of Old Monk- 
 land, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 1 mile 
 (S. W.) from Airdrie ; containing 502 inhabitants. It 
 is situated in the eastern part of the parish, a short dis- 
 tance north of the Calder water, which is here very de- 
 vious in its course ; and is one of numerous large villages 
 that have latterly sprung up in this wealthy mining pa- 
 rish, now the principal seat of the iron manufacture in 
 Scotland. The village is in the immediate vicinity of the 
 538 
 
 great Calder iron-works, and of extensive coal-mines, in 
 both of which a large portion of the male population is 
 engaged. 
 
 GREENGAIRS, a village, in the parish of New 
 Monkland, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 3 
 miles (N. E.) from New Monkland j containing 184 in- 
 habitants. This place is situated in the north-eastern 
 part of the parish, and is divided into East and West. 
 It is one of several thriving villages which owe their pros- 
 perity and increase of population to the valuable coal and 
 iron mines of the district. The high road from New 
 Monkland to Slamannan church runs for a short dis- 
 tance on the south ; and in the neighbourhood are some 
 small streams. In the village is a school, with a house 
 for the master. 
 
 GREENHILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Lochma- 
 ben, county of Dumfries, 2 miles (S. W. by W.) from 
 Lockerbie ; containing 89 inhabitants. It is seated in 
 the eastern part of the parish, and on the west side of the 
 river Annan, which winds along the borders of Lochma- 
 ben, and separates it from the parish of Dryfesdale. 
 
 GREENLAW, a burgh of barony, the county town, 
 and a parish, in the county of Berwick, 8 miles (S. W.) 
 from Dunse, and 36 (S. E. by E.) from Edinburgh ; con- 
 taining 1355 inhabitants. This place is supposed to 
 have derived its name from the situation of the ancient 
 village on one of the several conical eminences in the 
 parish, which eminence, from its superior verdure, ob- 
 tained the appellation of the Green Law. The manor 
 at one time belonged to the Earls of Dunbar, under whom 
 Sir Patrick Hwm or Home, ancestor of the Home family, 
 held the lands in 1435, when the earldom became an- 
 nexed to the crown. After Berwick had ceased to be 
 part of Scotland, in 1482, the courts of justice previously 
 held there were generally held at Dunse, and occasionally 
 at Lauder, till towards the close of the seventeenth cen- 
 tury, when the town of Greenlaw was declared by act of 
 parliament to be the head burgh of the shire. Since 
 that time this has continued to be the county town. 
 The burgh of Greenlaw, of which Sir Hugh Hume Purves 
 Campbell, of Marchmont, Bart., is superior, is pleasantly 
 situated on the north bank of the river Blackadder, over 
 which are two bridges of stone ; and consists principally 
 of one street of considei'able length, opening on the south 
 side into a large quadrangular area. In the centre of 
 this area was the market cross, a handsome Corinthian 
 column, raised by the Earl of Marchmont, and on the 
 site of which is the present county-hall. The houses are 
 neatly built ; and the inhabitants are amply supplied 
 with water, conveyed into two spacious reservoirs of 
 stone, erected at the expense of the superior of the burgh. 
 A public library, containing a well-assorted collection of 
 volumes, is supported by subscription ; and there are se- 
 veral good inns in the town. 
 
 No manufacture is carried on at Greenlaw ; only a 
 few persons are employed in a carding and fulling mill : 
 a considerable degree of traffic, however, arises from its 
 situation as a public thoroughfare, and there is a post- 
 office subordinate to that of Dunse. The weekly mar- 
 ket has long been discontinued ; but fairs are held on 
 the 22nd of May, and the last Thursday in October, for 
 milch-cows and various kinds of cattle, and they are 
 numerously attended. Facility of communication is af- 
 forded by the great road from London to Edinburgh by 
 way of Coldstream, and other roads that pass through the 
 
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 place. As the county town, the sheriff's and usual courts 
 are held, and the public business of the county transacted, 
 here ; the sheriff's and commissary courts occur every 
 Thursday daring the session, and the justice-of-peace 
 courts for small debts monthly. The county-hall is a 
 handsome structure in the Grecian style of architecture, 
 erected by the late Sir W. P. H. Campbell, and contain- 
 ing a hall sixty feet long, forty feet wide, and twenty- 
 eight feet in height, ornamented with columns of the 
 Corinthian order. In the building are also various 
 apartments for the accommodation of the sheriff and 
 others attending the county meetings. The principal 
 entrance is by an elegant vestibule, lighted by a dome, 
 and containing a room for the preservation of the records. 
 The new gaol, erected in 1824, is a neat building com- 
 prising eighteen sleeping-cells, two day-rooms for crimi- 
 nals, and one for debtors. Attached to the day-rooms 
 are spacious airing-yards, to which the prisoners have 
 access during the day, and the whole is surrounded by 
 a lofty wall. There is a plentiful supply of water ; and 
 the prison is under excellent management. 
 
 The PARISH is from eight to nine miles in length, and 
 nearly three miles in average breadth, forming an area 
 of about 1'2,000 acres, of which nearly 7000 acres are 
 arable, 500 woodland and plantations, 1200 undivided 
 common affording good pasture, and the remainder 
 moor, moss, and waste. Its surface is diversified with 
 hills of no great elevation, and in the upper part of the 
 parish the lands are intersected for almost two miles by 
 a gravelly ridge called the Kaimes, about sixty yards in 
 width at the base, and forty feet high. To the south 
 of this ridge is the moss of Dugden, about .500 acres hi 
 extent, and in some places ten feet deep, yielding peat 
 which, when properly dried, is little inferior to coal. 
 The only river of importance is the Blaekadder, which 
 flows through the parish, dividing it into two nearly 
 equal parts, and, about two miles above the town, being 
 joined by a small stream called the Faungrass ; it 
 abounds with trout, and is much frequented by anglers. 
 On the south side of the Blaekadder the soil is a deep 
 rich loam, producing grain of excellent quality, and on 
 the north side, moorland and heath ; the crops are 
 wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips, with the usual 
 grasses. The system of husbandry is in an improved 
 state ; the lands have been drained and partly inclosed, 
 and the farm-buildings are generally substantial. The 
 pastures are well adapted for sheep and black-cattle, of 
 which considerable numbers are reared in the parish ; 
 and horses for agricultural purposes are bred upon 
 many of the farms. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish is £7410. The rocks are mostly of the 
 old and new red sandstone formations : white sandstone 
 and a dark claystone porphyry are also found. In this 
 parish the mansions are Rowchester and Lambden, both 
 of modern erection : the pleasure-grounds and house of 
 Marchmont, also, the noble seat of Sir II. H. P. Camp- 
 bell, though situated in the adjoining parish of Polwarth, 
 add much to the beauty of the scenery. 
 
 Greenlaw is ecclesiastically within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Dunse, synod of Merse and Teviotdale. 
 The minister's stipend is £254. 15., with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £30 per annum ; patron. Sir H. H. P. 
 Campbell. The church, situated in the town, is a plain 
 structure in good repair, containing 476 sittings. There 
 are places of worship for members of the Free Church 
 539 
 
 BuTsh Seal. 
 
 and the United Presbyterian Church. The parochial 
 school is attended by about 130 children ; the master 
 has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the 
 fees average £50. The late Sir W. P. H. Campbell be- 
 queathed £50 per annum to the poor. There are some 
 remains of a Roman camp on the north bank of the 
 Blaekadder, about two miles from the town ; and di- 
 rectly opposite to it, on the other side of the river, seve- 
 ral trenches diverge towards Hume Castle, four miles 
 distant. On the north-east of the parish, also, are the 
 remains of an intrenchment, intersecting the moor for 
 more than a mile : it is called Herriot's Dyke. 
 
 GREENLOANING, a village, in the parish of Dun- 
 blane, county of Perth, 5 miles (N. E. by N.) from 
 Dunblane ; containing 58 inhabitants. It is situated in 
 the north-east part of the parish, and on the east bank 
 of the river Allan : there is a place of worship for the 
 United Presbyterian Synod ; and the Scottish Central 
 railway, opened in 1848, has a station here. 
 
 GREENOCK, a sea-port, 
 burgh, and market-town, in 
 the Lower ward of the county 
 of Renfrew, 17 miles (W. N. 
 W.) from Renfrew, 22 (W. N. 
 W.) from Glasgow, and 65 ' 
 (W.) from Edinburgh ; com- , 
 prising the parishes of East, 
 Middle, and West Greenock ; 
 and containing, according to 
 the census of 1841, 36,936 
 inhabitants. This place is 
 said by some to have derived 
 its name, in the Gaelic language Grian-chnoc, from the 
 site of its ancient baronial castle on a hill unsheltered 
 by any intervening object from the rays of the sun. 
 Others derive its name from Grianaig, " a sunny bay" ; 
 which is the present Gaelic name of the town. It ori- 
 ginally consisted partly of the lands of Easter Greenock, 
 in which is the suburb of Cartsdyke, or, as it is also 
 called, Crawfurdsdyke, so named from the erection of a 
 small quay by its proprietor, Thomas Crawfurd, Esq. ; 
 and partly of the small village of Greenock, belonging 
 to Sir John Shaw, owner of the barony of Wester 
 Greenock, who in 1669 purchased from Margaret Craw- 
 furd, lady of Kilberny, the barony of Easter Greenock, 
 with the exception of the lands of Crawfurdsdyke, which 
 are now the property of William Crawfurd, Esq. On 
 the decease of Sir J. Shaw, the last of that name, in 1752, 
 John Shaw Stewart, Esq., afterwards (on his father's 
 death) Sir John Shaw Stewart, Bart, succeeded to the 
 lands of Easter and Wester Greenock, in right of his 
 mother; and on his death in 1812, they passed to his 
 nephew. Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, from whom they de- 
 scended to Sir Michael Robert Shaw Stewart, the present 
 proprietor. 
 
 The villages both of Wester Greenock and Crawfurds- 
 dyke at first consisted only of a few thatched huts, 
 stretching along the bay, and inhabited by fishermen. 
 But they gradually increased; and in I670, Sir John, 
 son of the former Sir John Shaw, obtained from Charles 
 II. a charter annexing the lands of Finnart, of which he 
 had become proprietor, to the barony of Wester Gree- 
 nock, and erecting both into one barony, under the 
 designation of the barony of Greenock. The inhabitants 
 appear to have pursued the fishery with success ; they 
 
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 had some shipping, and carried on a considerable coast- 
 ing, and a small foreign, trade, chiefly in herrings, of 
 which in 1674 they sent 20,000 barrels to Rochelle, 
 exclusively of other quantities to Sweden and the Baltic. 
 The two places had each a harbour capable of receiving 
 vessels of large burthen ; and from that of Crawfurds- 
 dyke, a part of the expedition to Darieu was fitted out, 
 in 1697. The union of the two kingdoms opened to the 
 inhabitants new channels of commerce; and in 1*19, 
 they fitted out the first vessel employed in the American 
 trade, which they afterwards prosecuted with singular 
 success, bringing home great quantities of tobacco, which 
 they exported for the supply of the continent. Indeed 
 the rapidly-increasing importance of Greenock was such 
 that it excited the jealousy of the ports of London, Bris- 
 tol, and Liverpool : but the breaking out of the Ameri- 
 can war greatly obstructed its chief source of prosperity, 
 and the loss of the American trade for some time im- 
 peded the commercial interests of the port. It was, 
 however, soon counterbalanced by an enlarged traffic 
 with South America, and the East and West India colo- 
 nies ; the trade of the port revived ; and it has con- 
 tinued to prosper till the present time, the place now 
 ranking as one of the principal sea-ports of the country. 
 This was the first port to petition for the opening of the 
 trade to the East Indies, in 1812. Greenock, extending 
 in every direction for the accommodation of its growing 
 population, has become the residence of numerous mer- 
 chants and shipowner.s ; the seat of various thriving ma- 
 nufactures, which put it nearly on a par with the most 
 flourishing commercial and manufacturing towns in the 
 kingdom ; and more recently a parliamentary borough. 
 In 1835, forty persons were drowned by the bursting of 
 the Whin Hill Dam. 
 
 The TOWN is beautifully situated on the south shore 
 of the Firth of Clyde, which is here four miles and a 
 half broad ; and extends for almost a mile along the 
 margin of the united bays of Greenock and Crawfurds- 
 dyke. The buildings occupy a narrow site of level land, 
 bounded on the south by a ridge of hills which rises 
 abruptly to an elevation of nearly 600 feet immediately 
 above the town, commanding a richly-diversified view of 
 the Firth and the coast of Dumbarton, on the north, 
 and much variety of interesting scenery on the east and 
 west. Greenock is for the most part very irregularly 
 built, consisting in the older portion of various narrow 
 and ill-formed streets, and in that of more modern date 
 of several spacious and handsome streets, with numerous 
 pleasant villas, especially towards the west, in which 
 direction chiefly the houses are increasing. It is paved, 
 lighted with gas, and amply supplied with water from 
 the vicinity, passed through filters previously to its being 
 distributed through the town, the necessary works hav- 
 ing been constructed by a company incorporated by act 
 of parliament in 1825, by the name of the Shaw's ff'ater 
 Joint-Stock Company, chiefly for proiiding water-power 
 for giving motion to the machinery of mills and factories. 
 For this latter purpose, an enterprise of vast magni- 
 tude was completed under the direction of Mr. Thom, 
 civil engineer, and proprietor of the Rothesay cotton- 
 works, at the suggestion of the late Sir Michael Shaw 
 Stewart. The water-works, which are mostly situated 
 at a distance of about three miles, on the south-west 
 side of the ridge of hills that overlooks the town, consist 
 partly of a spacious reservoir formed by strong embank- 
 540 
 
 ments, inclosing an area of 295 acres, and containing 
 284,678,550 cubic feet of water, conveyed by an aque- 
 duct six miles in length from numerous streams. There 
 is also a compensation reservoir of forty acres, containing 
 14,465,898 cubic feet, and now called Loch Thom in 
 compliment to the engineer. From the principal reser- 
 voir, which has an elevation of 500 feet above the town, 
 the water descends by a gradual declivity, and in its 
 course towards Greenock forms at convenient intervals 
 many falls of greater or less height, from which it is 
 diverted to the several factories that have been erected 
 near it, supplying to each 1200 cubic feet per minute 
 for twelve hours daily. The aggregate power of the dif- 
 ferent falls, which vary in depth according to the wants 
 of each factory, has been estimated as equivalent to that 
 of 1782 horses. This important undertaking was suc- 
 cessfully completed in 1829, at an expense of £51,000, 
 including the purchase of the ground. In 1845 an act 
 was passed to enable the company to increase the supply 
 of water beyond what is above stated. 
 
 The Public Library, established in the year 1783, now 
 contains about 10,000 volumes. For several years the 
 books were kept in the Freemasons' Hall, in Hamilton- 
 street, till they were removed into a building in Union- 
 street, towards the erection of which James Watt, Esq., 
 of Ashton Hall, Warwickshire, contributed £3000, as a 
 suitable place for the reception of a marble statue by 
 Chantrey, in honour of his father, James Watt, the cele- 
 brated improver of the steam-engine, which statue had 
 been voted at a public meeting of the inhabitants of 
 Greenock, the native place of W^att. This distinguished 
 person was born on the 19th of January, 1736, and died 
 at Heathfield, in Staffordshire, on the 25th of August, 
 1821. The foundation stone of the new building was 
 laid by the late Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, M.P. for the 
 county of Renfrew, and provincial grand master mason 
 of the district, on the 25th of August, 1835, the anni- 
 versary of Mr. Watt's death. The building is in the 
 early English style of architecture, and consists of a 
 centre, containing the library, and two wings, one of 
 which forms a reading-room, and the other a house for 
 the librarian. The Public Library is supported by an- 
 nual subscriptions of thirteen shillings paid by proprie- 
 tors, and twenty-one shillings paid by general readers. 
 A mechanics' institution was established in 1836; and 
 a handsome building has been erected for its use at an 
 expense of more than £1300, raised by subscription. 
 The ground-floor contains a library of 2000 volumes, a 
 reading-room, and an apartment for mechanical and 
 philosophical apparatus ; above which is a hall sixty- 
 two feet long, and thirty-nine feet wide, for the delivery 
 of lectures on chemistry, mechanics, and other subjects. 
 There is also a mechanics' library at Cartsdyke, or 
 Crawfurdsdyke, containing nearly 1500 volumes; and 
 three circulating libraries have collections varying from 
 500 to 1500 volumes. Two public newsrooms are like- 
 wise supported, in one of which, in Cathcart-square, is a 
 portrait of Sir John Shaw, who is justly regarded as the 
 founder of the commercial prosperity of the town. 
 Assemblies are held in the Exchange buildings, in which 
 are elegant rooms ; and a theatre, erected by Stephen 
 Kemble, is opened occasionally. The Tontine hotel, in 
 the principal street, is a spacious building, erected at an 
 expense of £l0,000,and contains some handsome apart- 
 ments, and every requisite accommodation.
 
 G RE E 
 
 G R EE 
 
 Manufactures of various kinds are carried on here 
 to a very considerable extent ; and there are numerous 
 large estabhshments for refining sugar, some breweries, 
 distilleries, tanneries, foundries, and forges. The manu- 
 facture of woollen cloth and yarn is pursued in two 
 factories, in one of which ^5,000 stones of wool are an- 
 nually consumed in the production of tartans, twilled 
 cloths, and yarn ; and the other, of recent establish- 
 ment, is still more extensive. A very large cotton-work 
 has lately been opened, the machinery of which is pro- 
 pelled by the Shaw's water : the building is of stone, 
 263 feet in length, sixty feet in breadth, and three stories 
 in height. In those parts where the process carried on 
 is most in danger of fire, the building is fire-proof; and 
 in case of need, the pipes by which it is heated with 
 steam can be rendered available with the same etfect as 
 a fire-engine. The water-wheel that drives the ma- 
 chinery is seventy feet in diameter, and wholly of iron, 
 weighing about ISO tons. The number of people em- 
 ployed is generally 400, the greater part of whom are 
 females. There are eleven large establishments for the 
 refining of sugar, affording occupation to 350 persons ; 
 one of these is wholly engaged in refining for exporta- 
 tion, and the aggregate quantity is about 14,000 tons 
 annually. Three breweries employ about forty-five per- 
 sons, doing business to the amount of £30,000 per an- 
 num J and there is a distillery producing whisky annu- 
 ally to the amount of £50,000, and paying duties to the 
 excise of £'21,000. Connected with the distillery is a 
 dairy of fifty cows. The manufacture of sail-cloth gives 
 employment to nearly 300 persons, and consumes an- 
 nually about 600 tons of raw material : attached to the 
 premises is an extensive rope- walk, in which large quan- 
 tities of cordage are made, averaging annually 700 tons. 
 There are also three other rope-walks, in the aggregate 
 affording employment to eighty persons. Four tanneries 
 employ together about fifty hands, and do business to 
 the amount of £18,000 annually ; while two potteries, 
 in which '200 people are constantly engaged, make on 
 the average 100,000 dozens of white and printed earthen- 
 ware. The paper manufacture provides occupation to 
 about forty persons, of whom a considerable number are 
 females, and produces yearly 300 tons of packing and 
 coloured papers. There are also some extensive cooper- 
 ages, together employing about .500 men and boys. The 
 straw-plat manufacture of Greenock occupies generally 
 about seventy persons on the premises, and affords em- 
 ployment to 150 who work at their own dwellings in the 
 town, and to 1500 in the islands of Orkney. There are 
 three extensive iron-foundries and forges for all kinds 
 of castings, and for the manufacture of steam-engines 
 and boilers, and various sorts of machinery, together 
 affording employment to more than 1000 persons. In 
 these establishments, steam-engines of the aggregate 
 power of nearly 3000 horses are annually manufactured ; 
 and numerous English-built steamers, as well for go- 
 vernment as for private individuals, have been supplied 
 with engines and machinery from the works. Two 
 manufactories for chain-cables and anchors, also, em- 
 ploy above 110 persons; and there is a work for the 
 making of bar-iron, in which a considerable number are 
 engaged. Four large mills for grinding grain, yield 
 upwards of 50,000 bolls a year : one of them was also 
 supplied with machinery for freeing rice imported into 
 this country from the husk, but this was found to be 
 541 
 
 attended without any of the expected benefit, and has 
 been discontinued. 
 
 The trade of the port, which, after it had recovered 
 from the depression it suffered during the American war, 
 greatly increased, has recently sustained some diminu- 
 tion from the deepening of the Clyde and the introduc- 
 tion of steam towing-boats, by which ships that previ- 
 ously landed their cargoes here are now enabled to reach 
 Glasgow. The exports are chiefly cotton, yarn, kc. ; 
 linen, woollen, and silk manufactures ; hardware, earth- 
 enware, glass, refined sugar, iron and machinery, copper, 
 and lead. The imports are cotton-wool, sugar, molasses, 
 coffee, cocoa, pepper, tobacco, corn, wine, oil, spirits, 
 timber, deals, mahogany, dye-woods, brimstone, and 
 numerous other goods. In a recent year, before the 
 establishment of the cotton-work above described, the 
 quantity of cotton-wool imported was 11,597,653 lb., and 
 the quantity of cotton, yarn, &c. exported was valued 
 at upwards of £1,000,000. The number of ships and 
 vessels entered inwards and cleared outwards to foreign 
 ports with cargoes, in the same year, was, '225 British, of 
 65,864 tons, and twelve foreign, of 3095 tons, inwards ; 
 and 235 British, of 63,582 tons, and nine foreign, of 
 3411 tons, outwards. The number of vessels entered 
 inwards and cleared outwards, coastwise, was, 911 
 vessels, of 99,430 tons, inwards ; and 1222 vessels, of 
 128,017 tons, outwards : this latter number of vessels, 
 however, includes vessels with part of cargoes previously 
 cleared outwards at Glasgow. In 1848 the amount of 
 duty paid at the custom-house was £436,985. The 
 number of vessels registered as belonging to the port is 
 432, of 79,779 tons' aggregate burthen ; and the number 
 of seamen is upwards of 3000. 
 
 The HARBOUR was commenced in 1707, by the inha- 
 bitants, to whom the lord of the manor, Sir John Shaw, 
 conveyed the- ground on which it was formed, together 
 with his right, as superior of the barony, to levy anchor- 
 age dues. In order to raise funds for its completion, 
 they voluntarily imposed an assessment of \s. 4rf. on 
 every sack of malt brewed into ale within the burgh. 
 The harbour thus formed being found, however, totally 
 inadequate to the rapid increase of the trade, an exten- 
 sion including the Isay of Crawfurdsdyke was carried 
 into effect, at an expense of £20,000 ; and the subse- 
 quent erection of dry-docks and other works requisite 
 to render it complete, comprising warehouses, bonding- 
 yards for timber, and other accommodations, has in- 
 creased the amount to £119,000. The outer harbour, 
 which is accessible to the largest vessels, has sufficient 
 depth of water, and good anchorage ; but the roadstead 
 is contracted by a considerable sand-bank, extending 
 from Port-Glasgow towards Dumbarton. The entrance 
 to the inner harbour is 105 feet wide, and the depth 
 great enough to allow vessels of any burthen to approach 
 the quays. The Custom-house quay is 1035 feet in 
 length, the East quay 531, and the West quay 425 feet, 
 forming together a line of very nearly 2000 feet, replete 
 with every facility for the loading and landing of cargoes, 
 with spacious warehouses and stores. Ship-building is 
 carried on to a great extent, for which purpose there are 
 seven dockyards belonging to different companies, afford- 
 ing employment to 1200 men, with dry-docks, and three 
 patent-slips for repairing vessels, one of which is capa- 
 ble of receiving ships of 400 tons. The number of vessels 
 annually launched averages about twenty, of the aggre-
 
 G RE E 
 
 gate burthen of from 6000 to 7000 tons. Boat-building 
 is also carried on, by companies confined to that object, 
 who employ about forty workmen, and launch annually 
 about 800 tons of all descriptions. 
 
 The custom-house, which is situated in the central 
 portion of the quay, is a spacious and elegant building 
 in the Grecian style, with a stately portico in front, the 
 whole erected in 1818, at an expense of £30,000. A 
 chamber of commerce and manufactures was incor- 
 porated by royal charter in 1813, and is under the 
 management of twelve directors, of whom three annually 
 go out of office by rotation. The Exchange buildings, 
 erected in 1814, at a cost of £*000, afford every accom- 
 modation for the meeting of merchants and shipowners, 
 and for the transaction of commercial affairs ; they con- 
 tain also two spacious assembly-rooms, in which concerts 
 and card and dancing assemblies are held during the 
 season. The post-office has a good delivery ; and in ad- 
 dition to the Greenock Bank, there are branches of the 
 Bank of Scotland, the Royal Bank of Scotland, the Glas- 
 gow Union Banking Company, the Western Bank of 
 Scotland, and the Clydesdale Bank. The market, which 
 is on Friday, is abundantly supplied with grain and with 
 provisions of all kinds ; and fairs are held on the first 
 Thursday in July and the fourth Thursday in November. 
 Facility of communication is afforded by excellent roads, 
 of which eight miles of turnpike-road pass through the 
 parish, and by steamers. The Glasgow, Paisley, and 
 Greenock Railway was commenced under an act passed 
 in 1837, and was opened throughout in 1841. The 
 length is twenty-two miles and a half, of which seven 
 form part also of the Glasgow and Ayr railway, whence 
 the Greenock line diverges at Paisley, crossing the rivers 
 Black Cart and Gryfe, and reaching its summit level on 
 the Bishopton ridge. Thence it is continued by an em- 
 bankment, running nearly parallel with the river Clyde, 
 to Port-Glasgow, from which taking a curvilinear direc- 
 tion, it terminates at Greenock, where is a short branch 
 leading to the docks. There are two tunnels at Bishop- 
 ton ridge, cut through hard rock for above a mile in 
 length, and thirty-seven feet in depth ; the embankment 
 near the Clyde is more than a mile long, and twenty- 
 eight feet in height, and there is also one crossing Ful- 
 wood moss, four miles long, but averaging only ten feet 
 in height. The railway was completed in March 1841, 
 at an expense of £498,142, including one-half the cost 
 of the portion between Glasgow and Paisley, of which 
 the other half was defrayed by the Glasgow and Ayr 
 Railway Company. An act was passed in 1846, autho- 
 rizing the formation of a branch of 352 yards extending 
 from the Glasgow, Paisley, and Greenock railway, to the 
 Clyde at Greenock ; and also the construction of a pier 
 or wharf in connexion with it. In 1847 an act was ob- 
 tained, to amalgamate the railway with the great Cale- 
 donian railway. 
 
 The town was erected into a burgh of barony by 
 charter of Charles I., granted to Sir John Shaw, its 
 proprietor, in 1635, and confirmed by Charles II. in 167O. 
 In 1741, the then Sir John Shaw, by a charter which 
 was renewed in 1751, conferred upon his tenants in the 
 burgh the privilege of electing two bailies, a treasurer, 
 and six councillors, with power to hold courts for the 
 admission of burgesses, the good government of the 
 town, and the trial and punishment of deUnquents. 
 This charter continued in force till the passing of the 
 542 
 
 G R E E 
 
 Municipal Reform act of the 3rd and 4th of William IV. 
 A provost, four bailies, a treasurer, and ten councillors, 
 are now elected agreeably with the provisions of that 
 measure ; and their jurisdiction extends over the whole 
 of the municipal and parliamentary boundaries of the 
 burgh, which includes the suburb of Cartsdyke. The 
 magistrates hold courts daily for the trial of criminal 
 causes not extending beyond petty thefts and misde- 
 meanors, all higher matters being referred to the sheriff 
 of the county, who holds a court here for those cases to 
 which the jurisdiction of the magistrates does not ex- 
 tend. Under the provisions of the general Reform act 
 of the 2nd and 3rd of William IV., the burgh returns 
 one member to the imperial parliament : the right of 
 election is vested in the £10 householders, who also 
 form the municipal constituency, and of whom the num- 
 ber is 1188. The town-hall was erected in 1765, after a 
 design by the father of the distinguished Watt ; it is a 
 neat structure containing the several court-rooms, and 
 other apartments for the transaction of the public busi- 
 ness of the magistrates. The town gaol or bridewell, a 
 handsome building in the castellated style, contains 
 thirty-five cells for criminals. The sherifTs court-house, 
 erected in 1834 by subscription, consists of a spacious 
 hall for the courts, with apartments for the sheriff and 
 his clerk, and rooms for jurymen and witnesses. 
 
 The PARISH originally formed part of that of Inner- 
 kip, from which it was separated by act of parliament, 
 in 1592 : the lands of Easter Greenock and Crawfurds- 
 burn were annexed to it in 1618, and a considerable 
 portion of the parish of Houston in 1650. At later 
 periods the parish was subdivided into smaller parishes. 
 It extends along the Clyde for nearly five miles, and is 
 bounded on the south by the parish of Houston; on the 
 south-east, by the parishes of Port- Glasgow and Kilmal- 
 colm ; and on the west, by Innerkip. The surface is 
 hilly, rising towards the south, by elevated ridges, to a 
 height of 600 feet. The coast is flat and sandy, and is 
 not distinguished by any pecuharity of features, the hill 
 of Binnans, the highest in the ridge, forming the only 
 landmark of importance : from this eminence is obtained 
 a beautiful view of the Firth. On the shore the soil is 
 chiefly clay, intermixed with sea-shells and gravel ; and 
 in the higher grounds, a rich loam, alternated with peat- 
 moss : there are some quarries of sandstone, but of very 
 inferior quality. The estimated number of acres is 8000, 
 of which nearly 3000 are arable, 1150 meadow and pas- 
 ture, about fifty woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder moor. The scenery is beautifully diversified, 
 and on the acclivities of the hills are numerous scattered 
 villas, overlooking the Clyde. The mansion-house of 
 Greenock is finely situated on an eminence above the 
 town ; the greater portion of it is ancient, but several 
 additions have been made of more modern character. 
 There are some trees of considerable girth near this 
 mansion, and also near that of Crawfnrdsburn or Carts- 
 burn House, which is likewise an ancient building. The 
 annual value of real property in Greenock is £11 1,493. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs this place is in the 
 presbytery of Greenock, synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The 
 original parish, which, since the New or Middle parish 
 was disjoined from it in 1741, has been designated the 
 Old or West parish, is about three miles and a half in 
 length and two and three-quarters in breadth. The 
 minister's income is £718, arising from a stipend of 

 
 G R EE 
 
 GUIL 
 
 £287, from an annuity of £25 from the corporation, 
 and the rents of the glebe, amounting to £406 ; with a 
 manse : patron. Sir Michael Robert Shaw Stewart. The 
 old church, a cruciform structure built in 1590, being 
 inconveniently situated, and greatly dilapidated, has 
 been abandoned, and a new church built on a more 
 commodious site ; the present structure, which is of 
 elegant design, contains 1400 sittings. The Middle 
 parish, created by the Court of Teinds, is about one- 
 third of a mile in length and a quarter of a mile in 
 breadth, and wholly within the town. The minister's 
 stipend is £200, with £20 for communion elements, and 
 a manse ; patrons, the Magistrates and Town Council, 
 the Kirk Session, and the Feuars in the parish. The 
 church, erected in 174* at an expense of £2388, by 
 subscription, aided by a grant from the corporation, 
 is a handsome structure in the Grecian style, with a 
 portico of the Ionic order and an elegant spire 145 feet 
 in height, and contains 1497 sittings. A chapel has 
 been erected in the parish by the Society for Propaga- 
 ting Christian Knowledge, for the use of the mariners 
 frequenting the port ; it contains 350 sittings, and 
 divine service is performed on Sunday by a missionary, 
 who has a salary of £26 per annum. The East parish 
 was divided from the original parish, by the Court of 
 Teinds, in 1809; it is about three miles and a half in 
 length, and two and a half in breadth. The minister's 
 stipend is £200, with £20 for communion elements, and 
 a manse ; patrons, the Magistrates and Council, and a 
 committee of the Seat-proprietors. The church was 
 erected in 1774 as a chapel of ease, and contains 976 
 sittings. The former quoad sacra North parish was sepa- 
 rated from the West parish under act of the General 
 Assembly in 1834, and was about half a mile in length 
 and less than a quarter of a mile in breadth ; patrons, 
 the Communicants. The church, at first a chapel of 
 ease, was built in 1823, at an expense of £600, and 
 contains 1165 sittings. The South quoad sacra parish 
 comprised a small district within the town ; patrons, 
 the Proprietors of the church, which was built as a 
 Gaelic chapel of ease, in 1791, at a cost of £1300, raised 
 in shares, and is a neat structure with 1300 sittings. The 
 late quoad sacra parish of St. Andreiv was also separated 
 from the West parish ; patrons, the Trustees. The 
 church was built by subscription, aided by grant from 
 the Church-extension fund, at a cost of £2600 ; it is a 
 handsome structure in the later English style of archi- 
 tecture, and contains 945 sittings. The late parish of 
 St. Thomas was ecclesiastically separated in 1839, from 
 the Old parish and the Middle parish : the church was 
 built by private subscription, aided by a grant from the 
 extension fund. That part of the burgh which is called 
 Cartsdyke {which see) was ecclesiastically separated from 
 the East parish, in 1839, but, like the four preceding 
 districts, afterwards ceased to be a quoad sacra parish. 
 There are places of worship in the burgh for members 
 of the Free Church, the United Presbyterian Church, 
 Baptists, Independents, Reformed Presbyterians, and 
 Wesleyans ; an episcopal, and a Roman Catholic chapel. 
 The members of the Free Church have altogether six 
 places of worship in the burgh, and the United Presby- 
 terian Church four. 
 
 The old parochial school has been superseded l)y the 
 establishment of two burgh schools, in one of which the 
 Latin, Greek, and French languages are taught ; and in 
 543 
 
 the other, arithmetic, the mathematics, geography, and 
 drawing. They are under the management of two mas- 
 ters, appointed by the corporation, and who have each 
 a salary of £30, with the fees and an allowance of £25 a 
 year in lieu of house and schoolroom. The Highlanders' 
 Academy was built in 1837, partly by subscription, and 
 partly by grant from government, on a site given by 
 the late Sir Michael Shaw Stewart; it is a handsome 
 building, containing two schoolrooms, and apartments 
 for the masters of an infant and juvenile school, with a 
 large inclosed play-ground. There are also two schools for 
 orphans, built by the corporation, one for the gratuitous 
 instruction of children in the elementary branches of 
 education, and the other for teaching girls to sew and 
 knit, and qualifying them for service ; they are both 
 supported by subscription, and partly by the proceeds 
 of the children's work. The Greenock Hospital and 
 Infirmary was established in 1809, when a building was 
 erected at an expense of £1815, on a site of land given 
 by Sir John Shaw Stewart. It is maintained by sub- 
 scription, and the number of patients averages about 585 
 annually received into the house, and 200 out-patients. 
 Two wings have been added to the building, which is 
 now adapted for the reception of 100 patients. The 
 institution is under the superintendence of four phy- 
 sicians, two surgeons, and a resident apothecary ; and 
 the annual expenditure is about £1000. There are 
 numerous friendly and benefit societies ; and a savings' 
 bank has been some time established, in which are de- 
 posits to the amount of about £63,000. It may be 
 mentioned that Mr. Gait the novelist resided at Greenock, 
 where he died in 1839. The town gives the inferior title 
 of Baron to the family of Cathcart, a dignity created in 
 1807, in the person of tiie late Earl Cathcart, upon his 
 return from Copenhagen, where he had served as com- 
 mander-in-chief of the military force employed in the 
 expedition to that place. 
 
 GRETNA, county Dumfries. — See Graitney. 
 
 GRIMSAY, an island, in the parish of North Uist, 
 county of Inverness ; containing 269 inhabitants. This 
 is an isle of the Hebrides, lying between North Uist and 
 Benbecula, and is about two miles in length : a large 
 portion of it is covered with heath. A great quantity of 
 kelp is burned on its shores, the manufacture of which 
 is the chief employment of the population. Grimsay is 
 an island only at high water. 
 
 GROAY, an isle, in the parish of Harris, county of 
 Inverness. It is one of a group of islets in the Sound 
 of Harris, and is of small extent, and uninhabited. 
 
 GRUINARD, or Greinord, an isle, in the parish 
 of LocHBROOM, county of Ross and Cromarty. It is 
 situated at the entrance to a loch of the same name, on 
 the western coast of the county, about five miles south- 
 cast of Udrigil Head. 
 
 GUILDIE, a village, in the parish of Monikie, county 
 of Forfar, 3^ miles (W. N. W.) from Muirdrum ; con- 
 taining 83 inhabitants. It is in the eastern part of the 
 parish, and adjoining the village of Monikie : the popu- 
 lation is chiefly employed in the weaving of linen for the 
 manufacturers of the neighbouring towns. 
 
 GUILDIEMUIR, a village, in the parish of Monikie, 
 county of Forfar ; containing 75 inhabitants. This vil- 
 lage and Guildie adjoin each other. 
 
 GUILDTOWN, a village, in the parish of St. Mar- 
 tin, county of Perth ; containing 178 inhabitants. It
 
 G UT H 
 
 G U TH 
 
 lies in the western part of the parish, and is of modern 
 date, having been founded within the present century. 
 The houses are in general neat and comfortable, with a 
 piece of garden-ground attached to each. This village, 
 and Caroline-Place, also in the parish, are the property 
 of the Guildry Incorporation of Perth. 
 
 GULANE, anciently Golyn, a village, in the parish 
 of DiRLETON, county of Haddington, 55 miles (\Y. by 
 S.) from North Berwick ; containing '2/3 inhabitants. 
 This village, which formerly gave name to the parish, is 
 pleasantly situated ; and the ground in the immediate 
 vicinity is favourable to the training of race-horses, of 
 which two separate establishments have been formed. 
 There is a school attended by fifty children, the master 
 of which is provided with a house and garden, rent-free, 
 by Mrs. Ferguson, who also allows him a salary of £5 
 per annum, in addition to the fees. 
 
 GUNISTER, an isle, in the parish of Northmavine, 
 county of Shetland. It is one of the smallest of the 
 Shetland group, and lies about a mile southward of the 
 main land of the parish : there is pasturage for cattle 
 and sheep. 
 
 GUNNA, an isle, in the parish of Tiree, district of 
 Mull, county of Argyll. This is a small isle of the 
 Hebrides, lying in the sound between Tiree and Coll, 
 and is about a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth. 
 It is remarkable for the great quantity of sea-weed upon 
 its shores. 
 
 GUTHRIE, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 
 8 miles (N. W.) from fArbroath ; containing .530 inha- 
 bitants. This place gives name to the very ancient and 
 distinguished family of Guthrie, one of whom, on the 
 resignation of the guardianship of Scotland by Sir Wil- 
 liam Wallace, in 1299, and his retirement into France, 
 was sent by the Scottish nobles to solicit the return of 
 that hero, in order to assist his countrymen to expel 
 the English invaders. His descendant. Sir David Guthrie, 
 who was lord high treasurer of Scotland in the reign of 
 James III., purchased from the monks of Arbroath the 
 church of Guthrie, which had formerly been a chapel 
 belonging to that abbey, and founded here a collegiate 
 church for a provost and three prebendaries. This 
 foundation was confirmed by a bull of Pope Sextus IV., 
 in 1479 ; and to it was subsequently annexed the vicarage 
 of Kirkbuddo, or Carbuddo, now forming a widely- 
 detached portion of the parish of Guthrie. Sir David 
 Guthrie also erected a spacious and strongly-fortified 
 baronial castle here, which is still entire ; and on his 
 decease, the manor passed to his son. Sir Alexander, 
 who, with one of his sons and three of his brothers-in- 
 law, fell in the battle of Flodden-Field. It is now the 
 property of his descendant, John Guthrie, Esq. 
 
 Including Kirkbuddo, which is situated at a distance 
 of nearly seven miles to the south-west, and separated 
 by several intervening parishes, the parish of Guthrie 
 comprises an area of about 4000 acres, of which 3200 
 are arable, and the remainder wood and plantations, 
 with a very considerable tract of unreclaimed moor. 
 The surface of the main portion is varied, sloping gra- 
 dually from the hill of Guthrie (which is in the north- 
 west, and has an elevation of about 500 feet) towards 
 the south and east ; while in the southern, or Kirk- 
 buddo, portion, the land is nearly level, though consi- 
 derably raised above the sea. The parish is watered by 
 the small river Lunan, which flows through a narrow 
 544 
 
 valley, and forms its boundary. In some parts the soil 
 is a rich black loam, resting on a bed of retentive clay, 
 and in others of inferior quality, but generally suscepti- 
 ble of improvement by draining, which is gradually 
 growing into general practice. The system of agricul- 
 ture is advanced, and some portions of the moor have 
 been reclaimed; the farm-buildings are usually commo- 
 dious, and considerable progress has been made in the 
 inclosure of the lands. The woodlands around Guthrie 
 Castle and Kirkbuddo House are under good manage- 
 ment ; and in different parts of the parish are some 
 thriving plantations, which add much to the beauty of 
 the scenery. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £2727- Guthrie Castle, the seat of Mr. Guthrie, 
 was originally built in 146S. The more ancient part 
 consists of a massive square tower crowned with em- 
 battled turrets, rising above the foliage of the richly- 
 wooded demesne by which it is surrounded, and convey- 
 ing an impressive idea of baronial grandeur ; the more 
 modern portions have been added at various times, and 
 the whole has been improved by the present proprietor 
 of the mansion. It is beautifully situated on the banks 
 of the river Lunan, which has its source in a lake in the 
 vicinity. Kirkbuddo House, the seat of George Ogilvy, 
 Esq., is a handsome modern mansion. There is no 
 village properly so called; the population are principally 
 agricultural, with the exception of a few who are em- 
 ployed in weaving for the manufacturers in the neigh- 
 bourhood. In Kirktown of Guthrie, a hamlet consisting 
 only of a small number of scattered houses, are some 
 individuals engaged in the various handicraft trades 
 requisite for the supply of the inhabitants of the parish. 
 Facility of communication is afforded by the Arbroath 
 and Forfar turnpike-road, the Arbroath and Forfar rail- 
 way, and the Aberdeen railway. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Arbroath, synod of 
 Angus and Mearns. The minister's stipend is £158, of 
 which nearly one-half is paid from the exchequer ; with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £9 per annum : patron, 
 John Guthrie, Esq. The church, which is situated on 
 an acclivity rising from the valley of the Lunan, is a 
 substantial neat building erected in 1S26, and contains 
 306 sittings. Divine service is occasionally also per- 
 formed by the minister in a schoolroom at Kirkbuddo. 
 The parochial schoolmaster's salary is £27, with the fees, 
 the amount of which is small, a house, and a garden : 
 a school at Kirkbuddo is supported by subscription ; 
 and there is a parochial library, consisting chiefly of 
 works on religious subjects. Of the collegiate church 
 founded by Sir David Guthrie the only remains are a 
 small isle, now the burial-place of the family; while of 
 the chapel of Kirkbuddo scarcely any vestiges can be 
 traced. In the southern portion of the parish are some 
 remains of a Roman camp, still in a very entire state, 
 inclosing an area about 7 60 yards in length and 360 
 yards wide : in the south-east angle, supposed to have 
 been the site of the prastorium, is an eminence com- 
 manding a view of the whole of the interior. About 
 twelve years ago, two ancient utensils of earthenware 
 were found at the south-east corner of the northern di- 
 vision of the parish, on the banks of the Lunan ; one of 
 them shaped somewhat like a kettle. John Guthrie, of 
 this place, was consecrated Bishop of Moray, over which 
 see he continued to preside till 1638.
 
 H A D D 
 
 H A D D 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 H 
 
 HADDINGTON, a burgh, 
 market-town, and parish, in 
 the county of Haddington, 
 of which it is the capital, 18 
 miles (E.) from Edinburgh, 
 and 419 (N.) from London; 
 containing 545*2 inhabitants, 
 of whom 1878 are in the 
 town. This place, the name 
 of which is of very uncertain 
 derivation, is of unquestion- 
 able antiquity, though, from 
 the repeated destruction of 
 its ancient records, comparatively little of its remote 
 history has been preserved. It appears to have been a 
 royal residence at an early period, and in various docu- 
 ments is mentioned as having been a demesne town of 
 the kings in the beginning of the twelfth century. Ada, 
 Countess of Northumberland, and mother of Malcolm IV., 
 in 11/8 founded here a convent for sisters of the Cister- 
 cian order, which she richly endowed, and dedicated to 
 the Virgin Mary ; and Alexander II., King of Scotland, 
 was born at this place in 1198. The town, which was 
 wholly built of wood, was in r224 totally consumed by 
 fire, supposed to have been the work of an incendiary, 
 as, in the same night, the several towns of Stirling, Rox- 
 burgh, Lanark, Perth, Forfar, Montrose, and Aberdeen 
 experienced a similar calamity. It was repeatedly burnt 
 and laid waste by the English, during the frequent wars 
 between the two countries, but always speedily recovered 
 from its desolation. The abbey of St. Mary continued 
 to flourish till the Dissolution; and in 1548, the Scot- 
 tish parliament assembled within its walls, to deliberate 
 upon the marriage of Mary, afterwards Queen of Scots, 
 with the Dauphin of France, and to give their assent to 
 her education at the French court. In 1598, the greater 
 part of the town was destroyed by an accidental fire ori- 
 ginating in the carelessness of a servant. Haddington 
 suffered considerable damage, also, from inundations of 
 the river Tyne, in the years 1358, 1421, and 1775. 
 
 The TOWN is pleasantly situated on the Tyne, which 
 separates it on the east from the suburb of Nungate : 
 communication between the town and the suburb is 
 afforded by a good stone bridge of four arches ; and 
 over the same river are three other bridges within the 
 limits of the parish. It consists principally of two 
 parallel streets of unequal length, the longer of which, 
 forming the High-street, and being a continuation of the 
 road from Edinburgh, is spacious and well built, compris- 
 ing handsome houses, and is intersected at right angles 
 by a street of considerable extent. Haddington is well 
 paved, and lighted with gas from works erected in 1835; 
 and the inhabitants are amply supplied with water. The 
 appearance of the place has been greatly improved by 
 the erection of several elegant buildings ; and for the 
 accommodation of the town, a new and commodious 
 market has been formed. The approaches from the east 
 and west are pleasant, and ornamented with agreeable 
 villas having fine gardens : there are also some exten- 
 sive nursery-grounds ; and the general aspect of the 
 town, which is seated at the foot of the Garlcton hills, 
 Vol. I.— 545 
 
 is strikingly picturesque. A beautiful emblematic monu- 
 ment to the late Mr. Ferguson of Raith meets the eye 
 on entering the town from the west. A subscription 
 library has been established, which contains more than 
 1000 volumes; a parochial library, also, is supported 
 with funds left for that purpose by the late Andrew 
 Begbie, Esq. There is a valuable library, bequeathed to 
 the town by the Rev. John Gray, of Aberlady, who also 
 gave fifty merks per annum for the purchase of addi- 
 tional volumes ; and in Haddington is also kept a 
 library for the use of the presbytery. A mechanics' 
 institution was founded in 18'23, and is supported by 
 subscription, for the delivery of lectures on chemistry, 
 the various branches of mechanics, and other subjects ; 
 attached to it are a good library, a museum, and the re- 
 quisite apparatus. Both the Agricultural and the Hor- 
 ticultural Societies of East Lothian hold their meetings 
 in the town ; and there is a branch of the Bank of 
 Scotland, and also of the British Linen Company. A 
 considerable trade is carried on in wool, and in the pre- 
 paration of bones for manure ; the only manufactories 
 are an iron forge and an establishment for carriage- 
 building : the tanning and currying trades are pursued 
 to a good extent ; and there are two breweries and two 
 distilleries, on an extensive scale. The market is on 
 Friday, chiefly for grain of various kinds ; it is well 
 attended, and is one of the greatest marts in the country 
 for wheat. The market-place for butchers' meat is a 
 neat and commodious structure, formed at an expense of 
 more than £2000, defrayed from the public funds of the 
 town. Great facility of intercourse is afforded by the 
 Haddington branch of the North-British railway. 
 
 Though Haddington has been a royal durgh from 
 a very remote period, the earliest charter extant was 
 granted by James VI., and is dated at Newmarket, the 
 30th of January, 1624. It confirmed all rights and pri- 
 vileges conferred by the charters which, in the repeated 
 conflagrations of the town, had been destroyed, and 
 vested the government in a provost, bailies, and council 
 of merchants and tradesmen, by whom the other officers 
 were chosen. The corporation at present consists of a 
 provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and 
 nineteen councillors, appointed under the authority, and 
 subject to the provisions, of the Municipal act of Wil- 
 liam IV. A baron-bailie is appointed for the suburb of 
 Nungate, and also for the lands in Gladsmuir belonging 
 to the corporation. The provost and bailies are ex officio 
 justices of the peace within the burgh and liberties, and 
 they have also, by their charter, the jurisdiction of 
 sheriffs within the royalty ; but they do not exercise 
 this function, and the sheriff of East Lothian has con- 
 current jurisdiction with the magistrates of the burgh, 
 who are assisted by a town-clerk and other ofliicers. 
 The magistrates hold a court weekly for the adjudication 
 of civil cases, aided by the advice of the town-clerk ; 
 and also for the trial of petty misdemeanors, and for 
 the maintenance of the police. There are nine incorpo- 
 rations, which have the exclusive right of exercising 
 trade within the burgh, viz., the hammermen, Wrights 
 and masons, weavers, fleshers, shoemakers, bakers, tailors, 
 and skinners : each of these fraternities sends two mem- 
 bers to a council consisting of a convener, nine deacon - 
 conveners, and the two members of each incorporation. 
 This burgh joins with Jedburgh, Dunbar, Lauder, and 
 North Berwick, in the return of a member to parliament. 
 
 4 A
 
 H A DD 
 
 Haddington being the county town, the courts for the 
 shire are held in it at the appointed periods ; and re- 
 cently, some elegant county buildings have been erected 
 at the west end of the town, in the old English style, at 
 a cost of £5500, from a design by Mr. Burn. The 
 foundation stone was laid, with masonic honours, in 
 May 1833, by Sir John Gordon Sinclair, Bart. The edi- 
 fice contains the sheriff and justice-of- peace court-rooms, 
 and other offices connected with the county ; the front 
 is of polished stone, and other parts of the building are 
 also of a superior material. It occupies the site of some 
 old ruins that consisted of a vault and part of an arched 
 passage, the pillars of the Saxon style ; but all traces of 
 the history of these remains, thought to have been the 
 most ancient in Haddington, are now lost. The town- 
 house, for the transaction of the business of the burgh, 
 has been improved at an expense of £2000, paid out of 
 the corporation funds ; it is a neat building, including 
 an assembly-room, with a handsome spire. There is a 
 prison containing the requisite apartments for the classi- 
 fication of prisoners. 
 
 The PARISH is about six miles and a half in length 
 and six in breadth, and comprises 11,169 acres, of which 
 9312 are arable, 1250 woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. Its surface is 
 pleasingly undulated, and the scenery enriched with 
 woods of ancient growth and with flourishing planta- 
 tions. In general the soil is fertile, and well adapted 
 for all kinds of grain. The rotation system of hus- 
 bandry is practised ; considerable improvement has been 
 made in draining and inclosing the lands, and the intro- 
 duction of bone-dust and rape for manure has much 
 contributed to the fertiUty of the soil. The crops are 
 wheat, barley, oats, beans, peas, potatoes, and turnips. 
 The farm-buildings are substantial and commodious; 
 and every improvement in agricultural implements has 
 been carefully adopted. In this parish the woods con- 
 sist chiefly of oak, hazel, and birch ; and the plantations 
 of Scotch fir, larch, and spruce. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £33,648. Amisjield, a seat 
 of the Earl of Wemyss', is a stately mansion on the south 
 bank of the river Tyne, surrounded by a well-planted 
 demesne and extensive park, which, during the annual 
 sports called the Tyneside games, celebrated there under 
 the patronage of the neighbouring nobility and gentry, 
 are much resorted to. Stevenston, a seat of Sir John 
 Gordon Sinclair's, is beautifully situated to the east of 
 Amisfield, also in a richly-planted demesne. Lennox- 
 love, anciently Lethinglon, a seat of Lord Blantyre's, is 
 a handsome mansion, part of which, of great antiquity, 
 and built by the Gifford family, consists of a square 
 tower of massive strength : the park is of considerable 
 extent, and contains some fine old timber; it was first 
 inclosed with walls by the Duke of Lauderdale, who was 
 born here. Monkngg is an elegant modern mansion, 
 finely situated, and encompassed by some highly-en- 
 riched scenery ; and Coalston, a httle to the south, em- 
 braces an interesting view of the grounds of Lennoxlove, 
 and of the surrounding country. The other seats in the 
 parish are Clerkington, Letharo, Alderston, and Hunt- 
 ington. 
 
 Haddington is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of 
 
 Haddington, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and in 
 
 the patronage of the Earl of Hopetoun. There are two 
 
 ministers, making the church collegiate ; the stipend of 
 
 546 
 
 H ADD 
 
 the first minister is £343, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £24 per annum, and the stipend of the second 
 minister is £366, with a manse, and a glebe valued at 
 £25 per annum. The church, supposed to have been 
 built in the 14th century, is a venerable and elegant 
 cruciform structure in the decorated English style, with 
 a lofty square embattled tower : the choir and transepts 
 are in a dilapidated condition, but the nave has been 
 commodiously arranged for a congregation of 1240 per- 
 sons. In the aisle belonging to the Lauderdale family 
 is a splendid monument of varied marbles to Lord Chan- 
 cellor Maitland and his lady, with recumbent figures in 
 white marble. This fine church, which is 2 lOfeet in length, 
 was part of a magnificent monastery of Franciscans, 
 where Lord Seton, one of its greatest benefactors, was 
 buried in 1441 ; the buildings were partly destroyed by 
 Edward I. A handsome chapel of ease was erected in 
 1S38, to which a district was for a time annexed, contain- 
 ing a population of 18~8. There are also an episcopal 
 chapel, and places of worship for members of the Free 
 Church, the United Presbyterian Church, the Old Light 
 Seceders, Independents, and Wesleyans. A grammar 
 school is endowed by the corporation, who appoint two 
 masters, and pay their salaries ; it is open to all the sons 
 of freemen. A parochial school, affording a useful educa- 
 tion, is supported by the heritors ; the master has a salary 
 of £34, with £50 fees, and a house and garden. The 
 parish poor receive the interest of £300, the aggregate 
 amount of several bequests. The late David Gourlay, 
 Esq., bequeathed a field of four acres, with £450 in 
 money, and £840 in the funds, in trust to the ministers 
 of Haddington, for the relief of the industrious poor 
 not on the parish list. A dispensary for administering 
 medicines to the sick poor is supported by subscription ; 
 and a savings' bank has been established, in which the 
 amount of deposits is above £1000. In the suburb of 
 Nungate are the remains of St. Martin's chapel, for- 
 merly belonging to the abbey of Haddington. John 
 Knox, the reformer, was born in this parish, at Gifford- 
 gait, adjoining the town, in 1505, and received the rudi- 
 ments of his education in the grammar school. The 
 distinguished family of Maitland resided for many years 
 at Lethington, which they obtained by purchase. Sir 
 Richard Maitland, who died in 1586, was lord privy 
 seal, and author of some poems of merit. His eldest 
 son, William, filled the office of secretary of state in the 
 reign of Mary, Queen of Scots ; and his next sou, who 
 was created Lord Maitland, of Thirlstane, in 1590, was 
 lord high chancellor of Scotland till his death in 1595. 
 Haddington confers the title of Earl on the family of 
 Hamilton. 
 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE, a maritime county, in the 
 south-east of Scotland, bounded on the north and east 
 by the Firth of Forth, on the south by the county of 
 Berwick, and on the west by Edinburghshire. It lies 
 between 55° 46' 10" and 56° 4' (N. Lat.) and 2° 8' and 
 2° 49' (W. Long.), and is about twenty-five miles in 
 length and sixteen in extreme breadth, comprising an 
 area of 224 square miles, or 144,5 10 acres ; 8*52 houses, 
 of which 8010 are inhabited; and containing a popula- 
 tion of 35,886, of whom 17,279 are males and 18,607 
 females. This county, which is likewise called East 
 Lothian, as being the eastern part of Lothian, an exten- 
 sive district including also the shires of Linlithgow and 
 Edinburgh, was before the time of the Romans inhabited 
 
 1
 
 H ADD 
 
 H AGG 
 
 by the Gadeni, and subsequently formed a portion of the 
 Saxon kingdom of Noriliumbria till the year 1020, when 
 it was ceded to Malcolm II., and annexed to Scotland. 
 From that period, for nearly two centuries, it appears to 
 have remained in almost undisturbed tranquillity, and to 
 have made considerable progress in agriculture ; but 
 during the wars to which the disputed succession to the 
 Scottish throne gave rise, it suffered materially, and in 
 1296 became the scene of the battle of Dunbar, in which 
 Baliol was defeated by the Enghsh. Not to mention 
 other events connected with the county, in 1650 it suf- 
 fered from the English under Cromwell, on the same 
 field ; and in 1745 the battle of Prestonpans occurred, 
 between the forces of the Pretender and the English 
 under Sir John Cope, since which time it has enjoyed 
 uninterrupted peace. 
 
 The county is in the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, 
 and comprises the presbyteries of Dunbar and Hadding- 
 ton, with twenty-four parishes. In civil matters, the 
 district, for a very long period, was merely a constabu- 
 lary subject to the jurisdiction of the sheriff of Edin- 
 burgh ; but in the reign of James II. of England and 
 VII. of Scotland, it was erected into an independent 
 county. It contains the three royal burghs of Hadding- 
 ton (the county town), Dunbar, and North Berwick ; and 
 the populous villages of Prestonpans, Tranent, Aberlady, 
 Belhaven, Ormiston, Dirleton, Stentou, Tynninghame, 
 Cockenzie, East Linton, Gifford, and Salton, with nume- 
 rous smaller villages. Under the act of the 2nd and 3rd 
 of William IV., the county returns one member to the im- 
 perial parliament. 
 
 The SURFACE is varied. Towards the shores of the 
 Firth of Forth it is nearly level ; but it rises by gentle 
 undulations towards the south, for some distance, into 
 ridges of moderate elevation, which extend from east to 
 west, and increase in height as they approach the south- 
 ern boundary, where they form part of the Lammermoor 
 hills. These hills, on the south-east subside for a consi- 
 derable extent into a level plain, and on the west into 
 the fruitful valley of the Tyne, between which and the 
 Firth are some hills of inferior height. The principal 
 heights on the ridges are the Gunlanc and Garleton hills ; 
 and from the open plain rise two conical hills, at a dis- 
 tance of seven miles from each other, one of which, called 
 North Berwick Law, has an elevation of 800, and the 
 other, called Traprain Law, of "00 feet above the level 
 of the sea. The chief rivers are the Tyne and the Peffer. 
 Rising in Edinburghshire, the Tyne flows in an eastern 
 direction, through the pleasant vale to which it gives 
 name, and turning numerous mills in its course, falls 
 into the sea at Tynninghame. The Peffer, a much smaller 
 stream, has its source in the northern part of the county, 
 and passing through a tract of level ground in two dif- 
 ferent directions, cast and west, falls into the sea in the 
 parish of Whitekirk on the east, and into Aberlady bay 
 on the west. The Salton and Gifford waters are tributary 
 to the Tyne ; while Beltonford burn, which has its source 
 in the parish of Garvald, after a course to the north-east, 
 flows into the sea at Belhaven bay, to the west of Dunbar 
 harbour. 
 
 About two-thirds of the land are arable, and the re- 
 mainder meadow and pasture, with some extensive wood- 
 lands and plantations. Though various, the soil is gene- 
 rally fertile ; and the system of agriculture is in the 
 highest state of improvement. The crops are wheat, oats, 
 547 
 
 barley, peas, beans, potatoes, and turnips : wheat is the 
 staple crop ; the turnip crops are said to surpass those 
 of any other part of the kingdom, and the county has 
 long been distinguished for the excellence of its agricul- 
 tural produce in general. The farms vary from sixty to 
 250 acres, and are under very skilful management : the 
 lands are well drained and inclosed, and abundantly 
 manured ; the buildings and offices, also, are substantial 
 and commodious. On the several farms are threshing- 
 mills, many of them driven by steam. The Lammermoor 
 hills afford good pasturage for flocks of sheep, mostly 
 of the Cheviot breed, and partly of the black-faced ; the 
 cattle are partly the short-horned, but chiefly of the 
 Highland breed. The substrata of the Lammermoor 
 district are of the transitional, and those of the lowlands 
 of the secondary, formation. Coal is found in the west, 
 and limestone of the finest quality is abundant. Iron- 
 stone clay, and clay of good quality for bricks, occur in 
 various parts of the county ; and sandstone of compact 
 texture for building, and trapstone for the roads, are 
 quarried to a great extent. About 6000 acres are occu- 
 pied by woods and plantations, which are in a very 
 thriving state ; and at Tynninghame are some remarkably 
 fine hedges of holly, one of which is twenty-five feet in 
 height, and thirteen feet in width. It is worthy of men- 
 tion, that the first manufactory in Britain for the weaving 
 of holland was established in this county, and that the 
 first mill erected in Scotland for the preparation of pot- 
 barley was at Salton. The county is, however, almost 
 wholly agricultural, the manufactures carried on being 
 unimportant : draining tiles are made ; and there are 
 some distilleries and breweries, with a few other works. 
 The making of salt was once carried on to a great extent 
 at Prestonpans ; but it is now very much diminished. 
 A herring-fishery off the coast employs about 300 boats 
 during the months of August and September, accommo- 
 dation being found in the harbour of Dunbar. Facility 
 of communication is afforded by the North-British rail- 
 way ; and also by good roads, constructed under various 
 acts of parliament, and kept in repair by commissioners. 
 The railway passes through a country of undulating sur- 
 face, richly cultivated, and agreeably diversified with hills 
 and valleys, patches of wood, villages, and hamlets. 
 Some fine and extensive views are obtained from the 
 line : during a great part of its course, it forms a sort of 
 shelf or terrace along a surface gently sloping to the sea ; 
 and excepting at a few deep cuttings, the traveller is sel- 
 dom out of sight of the Firth of Forth, the coast of Fife, 
 and the German Ocean. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in the county is £258,743, of which £221,714 are 
 returned for lands, £31,558 for houses, £4908 for mines, 
 and £563 for quarries. There are numerous remains of 
 antiquity, consisting of mounds, encampments, and the 
 ruins of ancient castles, abbeys and other religious 
 houses, all which are noticed in the articles on the several 
 parishes. 
 
 HAGGS, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in the pa- 
 rish of Denny, county of Stirling, 2 miles (S. S. W.) 
 from Denny ; containing 1905 inhabitants, of whom 431 
 are in the village. It occupied the southern portion of 
 the parish of Denny, from which it was separated for 
 ecclesiastical purposes under act of the General Assembly, 
 in 1840. The pillage, which is situated on the road to 
 Glasgow, consists of several houses of two stories, roofed 
 with slate, some detached and pleasing cottages, and a 
 
 4 A2
 
 HALF 
 
 H A L K 
 
 neat row of small houses near the coal-works, at the 
 eastern extremity of which is a large building appropri- 
 ated as a storehouse. The inhabitants are chiefly em- 
 ployed in the collieries in this part of Denny, and in the 
 various manuFactures in the neighbourhood. Facility 
 for the conveyance of the produce of the mines is afifordcd 
 by the Forth and Clyde canal, and by railways. The 
 district is not remarkable for any beauty, or in an agri- 
 cultural point of view : the surface is destitute of timber, 
 and the scenery consequently of dreary aspect ; the soil 
 is generally thin and cold, and the system of husbandry 
 in a very imperfect state. Haggs is ecclesiastically in 
 the presbytery of Stirling, synod of Perth and Stirling. 
 The church, which was opened in 1840, was erected 
 chiefly through the instrumentality and exertions of the 
 Rev. John Dempster, minister of Denny, and the co- 
 operation and assistance of William Forbes, Esq., of 
 Callendar, M. P. for the county ; it is a handsome and 
 substantial structure, containing 700 sittings. The mi- 
 nister, who is chosen by the male communicants, derives 
 his stipend from seat-rents and contributions of the con- 
 gregation, no permanent endowment having been esta- 
 blished. A school in the village is supported by the 
 General Assembly. 
 
 HAILES-QUARRY, a village, in the parish of Co- 
 LiNTON, county of Edinburgh, f of a mile (N. W. by vv.) 
 from Colinton ; containing 158 inhabitants. It is situated 
 in the south-eastern part of the parish, on the road from 
 Edinburgh to Currie ; and has the adjunct to its name 
 from a considerable stone-quarry, the material of which 
 is of a slaty quality, and divides easily into thin portions, 
 excellent for pavements, lobbies, and steps. The quarry 
 is wrought to a great depth, and is very productive. In 
 one year, IS^S, when building in Edinburgh was pushed 
 to some extent, it yielded its proprietor, the late Sir 
 Thomas Gibson Carmichael, Bart., a rent of £9000. 
 Hailes was anciently the name of the parish. 
 
 HALBEATH, a village, in the parish and district of 
 Dunfermline, county of Fife, 3 miles (N. E.) from the 
 town of Dunfermline ; containing 46 1 inhabitants. This 
 village is inhabited chiefly by persons employed in the 
 extensive colliery in the neighbourhood, the produce of 
 which is conveyed to the port of Inverkeithing, where it 
 is shipped. 
 
 HALFMORTON, a parish, in the county of Dum- 
 fries, 6 miles (N. W.) from Longtown ; containing 737 
 inhabitants. This place derives its name from its having 
 formed part of the ancient parish of Morton, on the sup- 
 pression of which in the early part of the seventeenth 
 century, one-half was merged in the parish of Canobie, 
 and the other, named Halfmorton, though it still re- 
 mained as a parish quoad civilia, was ecclesiastically 
 united to the parish of Wauchope. On the subsequent 
 erection of Wauchope and Staplegorton into the present 
 parish of Langholm in 1703, the minister of that parish 
 officiated only every fourth Sunday at Halfmorton, which 
 in 1839 was consequently disjoined from Langholm by a 
 decree of the Court of Teinds, and erected into an inde- 
 pendent parish. It is situated in the south-eastern part 
 of the county, and is bounded on the east by the river 
 Sark, which separates it from Cumberland. The parish 
 comprises an area of about 5700 acres, of which 1'25 are 
 woodland and plantations, 400 moss, and the remainder 
 chiefly arable, with a due proportion of meadow and pas- 
 ture. Its surface is agreeably diversified, and the scenery 
 548 
 
 embellished with thriving plantations. The Sark is the 
 principal river, and a small stream called the Logan flows 
 through the parish : in both these are found trout, but 
 i^ot in great abundance. 
 
 The soil along the banks of the river is deep and rich, 
 and the arable grounds produce valuable crops : there 
 are considerable tracts of peat-moss. The system of 
 agriculture is improved, and the lands have been drained 
 and partly inclosed. On the pastures are kept sheep of 
 the Cheviot breed, and black-cattle ; a considerable 
 number of horses are reared in the parish, mostly for 
 agricultural uses, and on some of the farms great num- 
 bers of swine are fed. The substrata are chiefly red 
 sandstone, clay, and gravel ; and limestone is found in 
 several places. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £3176. The only approximation to a village 
 is the small hamlet of Chapelknowe, in which the church 
 is situated. A few persons are employed in hand-loom 
 weaving for the manufacturers of Carlisle. There are a 
 subscription library, and a library belonging to the 
 church. Facility of communication is afforded by roads 
 kept in good order by statute labour. Ecclesiastically 
 the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Langholm, synod of Dumfries : the minister's stipend is 
 about £200 ; patrons, the Crown, and the Duke of Buc- 
 cleuch, alternately. Halfmorton church, a plain struc- 
 ture built in 1744, has been lately enlarged. There is a 
 place of worship in connexion with the Free Church. 
 The parochial school is well conducted ; the master has 
 a salary of £25. 13., with a house and garden, and the fees 
 average £30. There are no remains of the ancient 
 church of Morton; but the churchyard is still used. 
 
 HALKIRK, a parish, in the county of Caithness, 
 7 miles (S. by E.) from Thurso ; containing 2963 in- 
 habitants, of whom 236 are in the village. This place, 
 the name of which is of very uncertain origin, includes 
 the ancient parishes of Halkirk and Skinnet, supposed 
 to have been united soon after the Reformation. It is 
 evidently of remote antiquity, and was one of the seats 
 of the Harolds and Sinclairs, Earls of Caithness, of 
 whose baronial castle there are still considerable remains 
 on the north bank of the river Thurso. On the opposite 
 bank of that river was one of the residences of the 
 Bishops of Caithness and Sutherland, of which, however, 
 not the slightest vestige can now be traced. The only 
 event of historical importance connected with the place, 
 is the assassination of one of the bishops by some ruffians 
 who were supposed to have been employed for that pur- 
 pose by the Earl of Caithness, in revenge for an addi- 
 tional assessment imposed by the bishop on his lands. 
 The perpetratorsof this inhuman murder were afterwards 
 discovered, through the strenuous exertions of King 
 Alexander II., by whose special order they were sentenced 
 to punishment. 
 
 The PARISH is situated nearly in the centre of the 
 county, and measures about twenty-four miles in length 
 and from three to twelve in breadth, comprising an area 
 of 74,000 acres, of which 6000 are arable, nearly an 
 equal number meadow and pasture, and the remainder 
 moorland, water, and waste. Its surface is generally 
 level i the only hill of any considerable elevation is that 
 of Spittal, about three miles to the south-east of the 
 church, and partly in the parish of Watten. There 
 are not less than* twenty lakes, of which the most ex- 
 tensive are Loch Calder in the north, and Loch More 
 
 i 
 
 4
 
 H A L K 
 
 KAMI 
 
 in the south ; the former is three miles and a half in 
 length and nearly a mile in breadth, and the latter of 
 about equal extent. The rivers are, the Thurso, which, 
 issuing from Loch More, flows through this parish and 
 that of Thurso, and falls into the sea at Thurso bay ; 
 and the Forss, which partly bounds this parish on the 
 north-west, and joins the sea at Forss, in the parish of 
 Thurso. Salmon and trout are found in both these 
 rivers ; and trout of various kinds are taken in the 
 larger, and also in the smaller lakes, and in the various 
 streams that issue from them into the river Thurso. 
 
 The SOIL is various, in many parts a clayey loam ; 
 and though generally wet and cold, resting on a clayey 
 subsoil, it has been greatly improved by the use of lime 
 and, marl. The chief crops are oats, barley, and bear. 
 The system of husbandry has been gradually advancing, 
 and some considerable tracts of moor and moss have 
 been drained, and brought into cultivation ; the farm- 
 houses and offices are in tolerable condition ; and the 
 lands have been partly inclosed. In this parish the 
 pastures are luxuriantly rich ; and considerable numbers 
 of sheep chiefly of the Cheviot breed, and cattle of the 
 Highland breed and crosses from the Teeswater and 
 Ayrshire breeds, are reared, and sent to Thurso and 
 Wick, whence many are forwarded by steam to the 
 English markets. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £605'2. The moors abound with game, 
 consisting principally of grouse, hares, snipes, and 
 partridges ; and certain portions are leased out by the 
 proprietors, producing a rental of £500 per annum. 
 There are but scanty remains to be seen of ancient wood ; 
 and though a few plantations have been made around 
 the houses of some of the proprietors, they are not 
 in a very thriving state, the soil and climate being un- 
 favourable to their growth. The principal substrata are 
 flagstone, limestone, and freestone ; and coal and lead- 
 ore have also been found, the latter of which was wrought 
 by the late Sir John Sinclair, of Ulbster, Bart. There 
 are quarries of flagstone for paving wrought at Spittal, 
 the produce being sent to Leith and Aberdeen for ex- 
 portation. Several handsome and substantial houses 
 have been erected in various parts, inhabited by some of 
 the principal farmers, but no seat requiring particular 
 description. The village is neatly built ; it contains a 
 good inn, and has a friendly society with funds amount- 
 ing to £300. A cattle- market, called St. Magnus', is 
 held in the village on the third Tuesday in December; 
 and another, called Georgemas, takes place on the last 
 Tuesday in April and in July, on the hill of Ruggy, partly 
 in the parish. Facility of communication is maintained 
 by several good roads, and by two bridges over the river 
 Thurso, one near the village, and the other at Dale, both 
 which are substantial structures ; also by a bridge of 
 wood at Dirlot. The turnpike- road to Thurso passes for 
 nearly a mile through part of the parish. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Caithness, synod of 
 Sutherland and Caithness. The minister's stipend is 
 £205. 19., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £8 per 
 annum ; patron. Sir James Colquhoun, Bart. Halkirk 
 church, erected in 1743, and enlarged in 1833, is situ- 
 ated in the village, and is a neat plain structure con- 
 taining 858 sittings. There is a missionary chapel at 
 Achrenny, with 403 sittings ; the minister has a stipend 
 of £50 from the Royal Bounty, with a house and garden, 
 549 
 
 and pasture for a horse. In addition to this, he receives 
 £45 from the inhabitants of Halsary in the parish of 
 Watten, and Halladale in the parish of Reay, where, 
 also, there are missionary stations at which he officiates. 
 The parochial school is well conducted ; the master has 
 a salary of £34, with a house and garden, and the fees 
 average about £5 per annum. There are several Picts' 
 houses and remains of ancient chapels in the parish, the 
 latter consisting of those of St. Thomas at Skinnet and 
 St. Magnus at Spittal, the walls of which are still tole- 
 rably entire. Some remains of a third existed, at Bannis- 
 kirk ; but they have totally disappeared under the opera- 
 tion of the plough. There were other chapels in the 
 parish. Of the remains of the castle of Braal, the seat 
 of the Earls of Caithness, the more ancient portion is a 
 tower, whose walls, of great thickness, are still remain- 
 ing to the height of thirty-five feet ; within the eastern 
 wall is a staircase, leading to the summit. The more 
 modern portion, which, from the difficulty of carrying 
 the materials, was never completed, consists only of the 
 ground-floor, 100 feet in length and fifty feet wide, 
 divided into six vaults. There are also remains of castles 
 at Dirlot and Loch More : the former, said to have been 
 erected by the Sutherlands, is situated on the summit of 
 a detached rock rising abruptly to the height of fifty 
 feet, from the river Thurso, by which it was at one time 
 surrounded. The latter was built by Ronald Cheyne, in 
 the fourteenth century, in a district selected as abound- 
 ing with deer. There are several springs supposed to 
 possess mineral properties ; but they have not been pro- 
 perly analysed. 
 
 HALVERA, or Havera, an isle, in the parish of 
 Bressay, Burray, and Quarff, county of Shetland ; 
 containing 37 inhabitants. It lies about two miles south- 
 ward of Burra island, and half a mile, in the same direc- 
 tion, from West Burra ; and at the entrance to Cliff 
 sound. The isle is of small extent, and has the appear- 
 ance of a high rock : the access to it is by a romantic 
 kind of creek ; and the houses seem built in dangerous 
 situations on the brink of a precipice. There is a smaller 
 isle, called Little Halvera. 
 
 HAMILTON, a parish, 
 burgh, and market-town, in 
 the Middle ward of the county 
 of Lanark; including the vil- 
 lage of Fernigair, and con- 
 taining 10,862 inhabitants, of /j 
 whom 8876 are in the town, ^ 
 1 1 miles (S. E. by E.) from 
 Glasgow, and 38 (W. S. W.) 
 from Edinburgh. This place 
 appears to have been distin- 
 guished at a very early period 
 as a royal residence, under 
 the appellation of Cadzow, of which name, however, the 
 origin and signification are now unknown. In 1153, 
 and also in 1289, the monarchs held their courts here; 
 and it continued to be a royal manor till the battle of 
 Bannockburn, immediately after which it was conferred 
 by Bruce upon Walter Fitzgilbert de Hamilton, ancestor 
 of the present ducal family of that name, in whose pos- 
 session it has ever since remained. In 1445, James II., 
 by charter dated the 3rd of July, created James, then 
 proprietor of the estate, first Lord Hamilton ; and 
 erected the manor of Cadzow into a barony, which took 
 
 Burgh Seal.
 
 H A M I 
 
 its name from the family of its possessor. In the year 
 1474, Lord Hamilton married the Princess Mary, eldest 
 daughter of the king, and widow of the Earl of Arran, 
 by virtue of which alliance his descendants were, after 
 the death of James V., recognised by parliament as heirs 
 of the Crown in the event of the death of Mary, Queen 
 of Scots. On their accompanying that princess into 
 France, they were created Dukes of Chatelherault in 
 that kingdom ; and they were subsequently made Dukes 
 of Hamilton by Charles I., and Dukes of Brandon in 
 England by Queen Anne. 
 
 Few events of historical importance have occurred to 
 distinguish the town. A conflict took place in 1650 
 between the array of the Covenanters, consisting of 1500 
 horse under the command of Colonel Kerr, and the 
 forces of General Lambert sent against them by Crom- 
 well, when, after an obstinate resistance, in which Kerr 
 and 100 of his men were killed, the Covenanters were 
 dispersed. In 16/9, a body of Covenanters defeated a 
 detachment of the king's troops at Drumclog, in the 
 neighbouring parish of Avondale : this happened on 
 Sunday, the 1st of June, the Covenanters having as- 
 sembled for worship ; and in consequence of the success 
 then gained, their numbers increased to about 4000. 
 They marched to Glasgow with the intention of making 
 themselves masters of that city, but being repulsed with 
 the loss of several killed and wounded, they fell back 
 upon Hamilton, where the more moderate drew up what 
 is called the Hamilton Declaration. Weakened by in- 
 ternal divisions, and having lost the prestige of success 
 acquired at Drumclog, they encamped on the 22nd of 
 June at Bothwell moor, between the river Clyde and the 
 town of Hamilton, from which position they were dis- 
 lodged by the royal army under the Duke of Monmouth, 
 being defeated with the loss of many killed, and 1200 of 
 their number who were taken prisoners. In 1774, an 
 accidental fire broke out in the town, which, raging for 
 several days with unabated violence, reduced a consider- 
 able portion of it to ashes. 
 
 The TOWN is situated on a tract of elevated ground, 
 about a mile from the confluence of the Avon with the 
 Clyde, and considerably to the west of the ancient town, 
 of which the only remains now existing are a small 
 portion of an out-building belonging to the old hall in the 
 pleasure-grounds of Hamilton Palace. It is intersected 
 by the Cadzow burn, over which is a noble bridge of three 
 arches, and by the roads leading to Glasgow and Edin- 
 burgh, on the line of the latter of which an elegant bridge 
 of five arches was erected over the Clyde, by act of par- 
 liament, in 1*80. Across the same river is Bothwell 
 bridge, a very ancient structure on the road to Glasgow, 
 of which the date is unknown, and which was lately 
 widened and repaired : Bothwell bridge was the scene 
 of the fight between Monmouth and the Covenanters, in 
 1679. A handsome bridge has been built over the Avon, 
 on the London road ; and across the same river is an 
 ancient bridge of three arches, built by the monks of 
 Lesmahagow. The houses are in general well built, and 
 some additional houses have been lately erected. The 
 streets are lighted with gas by a company of proprietary 
 shareholders, who erected works for the purpose upon 
 a very elegant plan : a company, also, has been formed 
 to supply the town with water. A public library, sup- 
 ported by subscription, was opened in 1808, chiefly 
 under the auspices of Dr. John Hume, which lately con- 
 550 
 
 H AMI 
 
 tained more than 3000 volumes ; and a mechanics' in- 
 stitution was established within the last few years. The 
 cavalry barracks occupy a large area surrounded with a 
 wall, and comprise a riding-room, and an hospital, with 
 stabling and the other usual accommodations. There 
 are three masonic lodges, two gardeners' societies, and 
 several building and friendly societies. Considerable im- 
 provements have taken place in the town by the forma- 
 tion of new streets. The market is on Friday ; and five 
 fairs are held in the year, which were formerly great 
 marts for lint and wool, but at present are little more 
 than large markets : two additional fairs or markets for 
 cattle and the hiring of servants have been established 
 with much success. The market for butchers' meat and 
 the shambles are situated nearly in the middle of the 
 town, on the bank of the Cadzow burn ; the buildings are 
 neat, and well adapted to the purpose. 
 
 A very considerable trade was formerly carried on 
 here in malt, under the direction of the Society of 
 Maltsters : this society is still kept up for convivial 
 purposes, but the trade has altogether declined. The 
 linen trade, also, which formed at one time almost the 
 staple business of the place, has been wholly discon- 
 tinued. The cotton trade, on its first introduction, 
 flourished here for some j'ears, and the town became 
 the principal seat of the district for the weaving of imita- 
 tion or Scotch cambrics. This branch of trade has been 
 on the decline since 1792, but is still considerable, and 
 aflfords employment to many of the inhabitants : there 
 are at present about 1300 looms in the town, and fifty 
 in the rural districts of the parish ; and many females 
 are engaged in winding and in tambouring. The old lace 
 manufacture, introduced by one of the Duchesses of 
 Hamilton, has for many years been decaying, and is now 
 almost extinct. A new manufacture of lace, introduced 
 some years since by a firm from Nottingham, is at pre- 
 sent the most flourishing trade of Hamilton, and gives 
 occupation to nearly 3000 women in the town and neigh- 
 bourhood. The principal productions are, tamboured 
 bobbinets, and black silk veils of various patterns, with 
 other articles, for which there is a large and still in- 
 creasing demand, for the markets of England, America, 
 and the British colonies. Many very respectable houses 
 are engaged in this trade, which, since its introduction 
 here by Mr. Galloch, has been much improved. Large 
 quantities of check shirts are also made in the town, 
 and exported to Australia : the weaving of stockings is 
 carried on to a limited extent ; and the tanning of leather, 
 at one time extensive, is conducted on a very small scale. 
 Great facility of intercourse is afforded by the Glasgow 
 and Hamilton section of the Caledonian railway. 
 
 The present town, though not the ^original one, and 
 though the larger part of it is comparatively modern, is 
 of considerable antiquity, having in the reign of James II. 
 been erected into a burgh by charter of that monarch, 
 granted in 1456. In 1 548 it was created a royal burgh 
 by Queen Mary; and it continued to enjoy its privileges as 
 such till 1670, when the inhabitants forfeited their rights 
 by disuse, and accepted a new charter from Anne, 
 Duchess of Hamilton, by which it became merely the 
 chief burgh of the duchy of Hamilton. This charter, 
 also, is now superseded by the late Municipal Corpora- 
 tions' act, by which the government is vested in a pro- 
 vost, three bailies, a treasurer, and a council of seven, 
 assisted by a town-clerk and other officers. The provost 

 
 HA MI 
 
 KAMI 
 
 and bailies are elected annually from the council, four 
 of whom go out of office by rotation, every year, when 
 four new ones are chosen by the qualified electors ; the 
 treasurer and the town-clerk are appointed by the cor- 
 poration. Both the provost and the bailies are justices 
 of the peace, by virtue of their office, with power to hold 
 courts for the determination of all claims in actions of 
 debt, and for the trial of all criminal cases not extending 
 to life or limb, within the burgh. They used occasion- 
 ally to hold a court for the recovery in a summary form 
 of debts under forty shillings, but this court, from a 
 doubt of its legality, has fallen into disuse : they still 
 hold weekly courts for the recovery of debts and for 
 civil actions to an unlimited amount, in which the town- 
 clerk acts as assessor; and also police courts for the 
 trial of misdemeanors and other offences not capital. 
 On the back of the burgh seal is the inscription, " Ha- 
 railtoun 1695". The elective franchise was granted by 
 act of the 2nd and 3rd of William IV.; and the burgh 
 has from that time, in conjunction with Lanark, Falkirk, 
 Linlithgow, and Airdrie, returned one member to the 
 imperial parliament : the right of election is vested in 
 the proprietors or tenants and occupants of houses of 
 the yearly value of £10 and upwards. The former 
 court-house and prison, erected at the cross in the reign 
 of King Charles L, were lately taken down ; and the 
 old town-hall was also disused. A new town-hall with 
 public offices and a prison, the first stone of which was 
 laid in 1834, has been built in lieu. It consists of a 
 distinct range of building two stories high, comprising 
 on the ground-floor a court-room thirty-seven feet long 
 and thirty-two feet broad, three apartments for the she- 
 riff's clerk, a record-room, and three rooms for the town- 
 clerk, with an apartment for the sheriff-substitute, and 
 another for the county procurator-fiscal : in the upper 
 story are a large hall for county meetings, and other 
 apartments. Behind is the prison, three stories high, 
 containing forty-five cells, with a spacious day-room for 
 debtors, and day-rooms for criminals ; the lower part is 
 appropriated as a bridewell, and the upper part to 
 debtors. Between the public offices and the prison is 
 the house of the governor, with requisite apartments, 
 and a bath for the use of the prison. The trades' hall, 
 in Church-street, erected in 1816, is a neat and appro- 
 priate building, comprising in the upper part a hall for 
 the meetings of the trades, and in the lower a well- 
 arranged tavern. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £38,181. 
 
 The PARISH extends nearly six miles in length, and 
 is almost of the same breadth ; being bounded on the 
 north and north-east by the river Clyde, on the south 
 and south-west by the parish of Glassford, on the east 
 by the parishes of Dalziel, Cambusnethan, Dalserf, and 
 Stonehouse, and on the west by Blantyre. It com- 
 prises 14,'i40 acres of land, of which aliout 8000 are 
 arable and of good quality, 2000 woodland, and 2040 
 unprofitable or waste. The surface is generally level, 
 occasionally varied with sloping ridges, but not rising 
 into hills of any considerable elevation. The most fer- 
 tile lands are the extensive vales on the south-western 
 bank of the Clyde, where the soil is a deep rich loam ; 
 and on the north-eastern side of that river are a few 
 hundred acres belonging to this parish, though they 
 would seem to be more properly within that of Dalziel, 
 which nearly surrounds them. In the middle of the 
 551 
 
 parish the soil rests upon yellow clay, and is less fertile 
 than in the valleys near the Clyde ; the higher parts of 
 the parish consist chiefly of gravel and sand, and are 
 comparatively unproductive. The substrata are princi- 
 pally sandstone rock, appearing in great masses that are 
 from under fifty to more than 300 feet in thickness ; 
 whinstone also prevails in some parts, and coal, lime- 
 stone, and ironstone are found. The several strata of 
 coal vary from twenty to twenty-four feet in average 
 thickness. In this district the limestone is of various 
 quality ; that obtained in the south-west is excellent, 
 and much used for building and also for agricultural 
 purposes. The ironstone is found in seams about eigh- 
 teen inches thick, and also in masses varying from very 
 minute balls to others several inches in diameter, chiefly 
 in the clay near the strata of coal. As yet the coal and 
 limestone only have been wrought. 
 
 Among the crops produced are, wheat, which is grown 
 on all the lands near the Clyde, and also on some few of 
 the higher lands ; and oats of various descriptions, of 
 which the Polish, Essex, and Friesland species are pre- 
 dominant. Peas and beans are chiefly raised on the 
 lower grounds. Barley, formerly more largely cultivated, 
 is now seldom sown, except for preparing lands for arti- 
 ficial grasses ; potatoes are produced in great quantities, 
 and of good quality, and a little flax for domestic use. 
 The system of agriculture, though varying in different 
 parts, is generally advanced ; there are some considerable 
 dairy-farms, and much attention is paid to the breeding 
 of cattle, in which many improvements have taken place 
 within the last few years. Great improvement has also 
 been made in draining and inclosing the lands ; the 
 fences are chiefly hedges, and are mostly well kept up. 
 The pastures, especially in the low grounds bordering 
 on the Clyde, are fertile ; and attached to a few of the 
 farms, and even to some of the houses in the town, are 
 orchards which abound with fruit. Of late years, since 
 fruit became so cheap, much less attention has been 
 bestowed upon its cultivation here. There are various 
 tracts of woodland in the parish, the principal of them 
 being Bar-Michael wood near Bothwell bridge, Ross 
 wood on the river Clyde, and Hamilton wood on the 
 Avon and the Barncluith burn. Forest-trees of every 
 kind thrive well, particularly on the lower lands. Oak 
 is very prevalent, and many of the older trees have 
 attained considerable size, several of those in Hamilton 
 wood, said to be the remains of the ancient Caledonian 
 forest, measuring thirty-six feet in girth. Larch and 
 Scotch fir also thrive; and the banks of the rivers, 
 wherethey have any elevation, are crowned with luxuriant 
 foliage. Silver and spruce fir are grown with success ; 
 and the cedar of Lebanon has attained a tolerable size 
 where it has been planted. In Hamilton wood are still 
 preserved the famous breed of Scottish wild tattle, 
 milk-white in colour, with black muzzles, horns, and 
 hoofs. Freestone is found in several parts of the parish, 
 of a good quality for building ; and at present about fifty 
 men are constantly employed in the various quarries. 
 
 The principal river is the Clyde, which rises in the 
 heights of Crawford, and begins to bound the parish 
 some miles below the falls at Lanark ; it expands into 
 a breadth varying from eighty to 100 yards, and is sub- 
 ject after rains to frequent inundations, by which the 
 lands have at different times been much injured. The 
 river Avon also, or Evan, as it is sometimes written.
 
 T 
 
 HA INI I 
 
 iatersects the parish, receiving in its course sis tributary 
 streams ; and there are three other streamlets or burns, 
 which fall into the Clyde. The Avon rises on the west, 
 near the borders of the county of Ayr, and after a pic- 
 turesque course of several miles through the dale to 
 which it gives name, enters the parish at Millheugh 
 bridge, and a little below flows through a defile bounded 
 on each side by majestic rocks of romantic aspect, rising 
 to the height of 200 or 300 feet, and richly clothed, in 
 some parts almost to their summits, with stately and 
 venerable oaks. Nearly in the centre of this defile are 
 the remains of Cadzow Castle, seated on a rock ascend- 
 ing perpendicularly to the height of 200 feet above the 
 level of the river ; and on the opposite bank is the bau- 
 queting-house of the Duke of Hamilton, built after the 
 model of Chatelherault, from which it takes its name. 
 Not far from the extremity of the chasm, and about 
 three miles from the entrance, are the gardens of Barn- 
 cluith, the property of Lord Ruthven, rising in terraces 
 firom the western bank of the river, which, after forcing 
 its way through this rocky channel, flows along the fer- 
 tile valleys of the parish, and falls into the Clyde near 
 Hamilton bridge. Of the several other streams that 
 intersect the parish the principal are, Cadzow burn, 
 which rises in Glassford, and after running through the 
 town, falls into the Clyde at a short distance below 
 Hamilton bridge ; "and Barncluith burn, which joins the 
 Avon about half a mile from the town. The latter bum 
 flows through Hamilton wood, forming in its way five 
 or six falls, varying from five to six feet in height, and 
 adding greatly to the beauty of the scenery. Both the 
 Clyde and the Avon abound with fish, of which salmon, 
 trout, par or samlet, silver-eels, and minnow are the 
 most common ; and pike, perch, lampreys, and roach are 
 occasionally found : roach are the most uncommon. 
 
 Hamilton Palace, the seat of his grace the Duke 
 of Hamilton, situated on the borders of the town, about 
 half a mile westward of the confluence of the Avon and 
 the Clyde, was originally a square tower of very small 
 dimensions. The more ancient part of the present 
 mansion was built in 1590, and nearly rebuilt about the 
 year 1720; considerable additions have been made to the 
 building since 1S22, and at present it is one of the most 
 splendid structures in the kingdom. Its north front 
 is 264 feet in length, and three stories in height, with a 
 stately portico of duplicated Corinthian columns, each 
 thirty feet high, three feet in diameter, and formed of 
 one single block, and the columns together supporting 
 a triangular pediment. To the west is a wing 100 feet 
 in length, appropriated for offices and servants' apart- 
 ments ; and in the rear of the building is a corridor of 
 recent addition, in which are baths and various appen- 
 dages for the use of the family. The entrance hall is 
 lofty, and richly embellished ; and the state apartments, 
 which are extremely spacious, are magnificently deco- 
 rated throughout, and ornamented with sculpture. The 
 dining-room is seventy feet in length and thirty feet 
 wide, and has numerous embellishments, among which 
 is a tripod of exquisite beauty standing on a pedestal of 
 African marble : the other apartments, also, abound 
 with costly vases, cabinets, specimens of mosaic, gems, 
 and other rare and interesting curiosities. The gallery, 
 which is 120 feet long, twenty feet wide, and twenty 
 feet high, contains an extensive and very valuable col- 
 lection of paintings by the most eminent masters of the 
 552 
 
 H A M I 
 
 Italian and Flemish schools, and many family portraits. 
 At the upper end is the throne used by his grace when 
 ambassador at the court of Petersburgh, and on one side 
 of it is a bust of Augustus, and on the other one of Ti- 
 berius, both of oriental porphyry : at the opposite end 
 of the gallery is a beautiful door of black marble, sur- 
 mounted by a pediment supported ou two pillars of green 
 porphyry. The library contains a large collection of 
 well-assorted volumes, and of prints, the latter alone 
 being valued at £10,000. There are some stables, built 
 between the palace and the town, on a scale adapted 
 to the style of the palace ; and the grounds abound with 
 stately timber, and with every variety and beauty of 
 scenery. The banqueting-house of Chatelherault was 
 erected in 1732, by the then duke, after a model of the 
 citadel of that name in France ; it is built of red free- 
 stone, and decorated with four square towers, and, with 
 its numerous pinnacles and other ornaments, forms a 
 conspicuous object on the eastern side of the river Avon. 
 Among various interesting works of taste it contains a 
 small but choice collection of paintings; and the grounds, 
 in which is an extensive flower-garden, are tastefully 
 embellished. Earnock House, a seat in the parish, for- 
 merly belonging to the ancient family of Roberton, is 
 beautifully situated in its western part, on an elevated 
 site surrounded with flourishing plantations ; the house 
 is of modern erection, well adapted for its purpose, and 
 the gardens and pleasure-grounds are agreeably laid out. 
 Ross is a spacious mansion, situated in grounds com- 
 prehending much agreeable scenery : Nielsland is also a 
 handsome residence, with an extensive demesne ; and 
 there are some good houses at Fair Hill, Grovemount, 
 Edlewood, and Fairholme. Of Barncluith the principal 
 feature is the gardens previously noticed ; and many of 
 the ancient seats of different branches of the Hamilton 
 family have become farm-houses. The chief landed pro- 
 prietor is the Duke of Hamilton, who owns more than 
 one-half of the parish. 
 
 Hamilton parish formerly comprised the chapelry of 
 Machan, now the parish of Dalserf ; and it also appears 
 that the church was granted by David I., together with 
 the lands belonging to it, to the abbej' of Glasgow, and 
 was afterwards appropriated to the deanery of that see. 
 The parish is within the bounds of the presbytery of 
 Hamilton, synod of Glasgow and Ayr. There are two 
 ministers, the first of whom has a stipend of about £314, 
 whereof £2. 15. arise from a bequest for communion 
 elements; £107. 10. are allowed by the Duke of Hamil- 
 ton in lieu of manse and glebe : the second minister has 
 a stipend of rather less amount, with a manse, but no 
 glebe. The church was made collegiate under the influ- 
 ence of the first Lord Hamilton, in 1451 ; and a new 
 church was consequently built, which was finished in 
 April 1462 : it was endowed for a provost and eight 
 prebendaries, and contained a chapel dedicated to the 
 Virgin Mary, for which a chaplain was appointed. This 
 building, which was of hewn stone, consisted of a nave, 
 choir, and transepts, of elegant design, and continued 
 till 1732, when it fell into decay, since which time it has 
 been greatly dilapidated, nothing of it now remaining 
 but one of the transepts, still used as a burying-place 
 for the Hamilton family. The present parish church, 
 situated in the southern part of the town, is a handsome 
 structure of circular form, erected after a design by the 
 elder Adam, architect ; and is adapted to a congregation
 
 H A M I 
 
 HARD 
 
 of 800. A second church in connexion with the Esta- 
 bhshment, and capable of containing lO'il persons, was 
 some years ago erected by subscription ; it was known 
 as St. John's church, and was occupied by the minister 
 of the second charge, until the Disruption of the Church 
 of Scotland, when it was appropriated by the members of 
 the Free Church for their own use. There are several 
 congregations of the United Presbyterian Church ; also 
 places of worship for Independents and others. The 
 Episcopalians in Hamilton and its neighbourhood have 
 lately formed themselves into a congregation, and there 
 is also a congregation of Roman Catholics, who purchased 
 ground a few years ago for the erection of a chapel. The 
 grammar school is of ancient origin, and in 1588 was 
 endowed by Lord John Hamilton with £'20 Scotch per 
 annum ; it affords a liberal education to about forty 
 children, and is under the patronage of the corporation. 
 The master's salarj' is £34, and the fees on the average 
 amount to £60 : the school-house is a venerable build- 
 ing, nearly in the centre of the town. The Duke's Hos- 
 pital, for a certain number of aged men, was originally 
 built in the old town, but was removed to the present ; 
 it is an ancient building with a belfry, situated near the 
 Cross, and was formerly inhabited by the pensioners, 
 but has for some years been let out, and the receipts 
 applied to their use along with the ordinary proceeds. 
 An hospital was built in 17/5, in Muir-street, by William 
 Aikman, Esq., for four aged men, who have each a resi- 
 dence in the building, with a certain endowment. Mr. 
 John Rae bequeathed to the town council a sum of 
 money which, together with some bequests by other 
 benefactors, produces an annual interest of £9. 2. 4., 
 distributed among poor housekeepers according to the 
 will of the testators. Mr. Robertson, of this town, and 
 sheriff-clerk of Lanark, in conjunction with Mr. Lyon, 
 left £4 per annum for nine aged men ; and Miss Christian 
 Allan, in 1785, left to the Kirk Session £50, in trust for 
 the benefit of the poor. Mr. William Torbuet bequeathed 
 to the same trustees an orchard that lets at £10 per 
 annum ; and they have also a legacy of £50, the interest 
 of which is divided among five female housekeepers 
 named by them ; another legacy of £50, of which only 
 £30 were paid, for clothing the indigent poor ; and a 
 donation of £100, the interest of which is applied to the 
 instruction of twelve children. Another bequest has 
 been made recently. 
 
 Among the antiquities in the parish, the most con- 
 spicuous are the remains of Cadzow Castle, previously 
 noticed as occupying the summit of a precipitous rock 
 rising from the river Avon, in Hamilton woods. It has 
 been repaired at various times. The keep, with the fosse 
 around it, a narrow bridge over the fosse, and a well 
 within the walls, are still in good preservation ; and 
 several vaults, with part of the walls of the chapel, may 
 yet be distinctly traced. Darngaber Castle, in the south- 
 east of the parish, supposed to have been founded by 
 Thomas, son of Sir John de Hamilton, lord of Cadzow, 
 occupied an elevated site at the extremity of a point of 
 land near the confluence of two rivulets : the only re- 
 mains are, portions of the foundations, which appear to 
 have consisted of flat unhewn and uncemented stones ; 
 and some vaults, that seem to have been constructed at 
 a much earlier period. At Meikle Earnoch, two miles 
 south of the town, is a tumulus about twelve feet in 
 diameter, and eight feet high, which appears to have 
 Vol. I.— 553 
 
 been originally of larger dimensions. On opening it 
 several urns were found, containing human bones nearly 
 reduced to ashes ; they were all of baked earth, without 
 inscription, but some of them were decorated with 
 mouldings. Near Meikle Earnoch, in a field on the 
 lands of Stonehall, is a small mound called the Martyr's 
 Grave, which is regarded with much veneration by the 
 country-people : it has always been left untouched by 
 the plough, and is said to mark the place w-here one of 
 the Covenanters was buried. To the north of Hamilton 
 Palace is a mount supposed to have been in remoter ages 
 a seat for the administration of justice ; it is about thirty 
 feet in diameter at the base, and fifteen feet high, and 
 near it is a stone cross four feet in height, without in- 
 scription. This cross is thought to have been the market 
 cross of the old town, called Netherton, which, previously 
 totheerectionof the upper or present town of Hamilton, 
 occupied this part. In the south of the parish is a por- 
 tion of a cromlech, consisting of one stone of about six 
 feet, which, having declined greatly from its erect posi- 
 tion, was replaced by the tenant of a neighbouring farm. 
 The celebrated Dr. Cullen was born in this parish in 
 1714, and for several years was a magistrate of Hamilton. 
 The father of the late Professor Millar, of Glasgow, was 
 parochial clergyman here ; as was also the father of the 
 late Dr. Baillie, of London, and of his distinguished 
 sister, Joanna Baillie. 
 
 HANDA, an island, in the parish of Eddrachillis, 
 county of Sutherland ; containing 65 inhabitants. 
 It is situated off the western coast of the county, and 
 separated from the main land of the parish by a narrow 
 sound ; and is about a mile square. On the north, one 
 vast perpendicular rock, or majestic cliff, 600 feet in 
 height, presents its face to the sea, and is the habitation 
 of innumerable sea-fowl during the season of incubation ; 
 on the south the isle is much lower, and the ascent gentle 
 and easy. It has some fertile spots, producing corn and 
 hay, but is principally appropriated to sheep-walks. 
 Fishing is the chief employment of the population, who 
 also obtain by fowling, and frequently by daring exploits, 
 great quantities of birds and eggs, as well for disposal 
 to their mainland neighbours, as for their own subsist- 
 ence. This was once the residence of Little John Mac 
 Dhoil Mhich Huishdan, one of the Macleods of Assynt, 
 and the murderer of Judge Morison, of Lewis, in the 
 reign of James VI. 
 
 HAN GINSHAW, a village, in the parish of Cath- 
 cart. Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 1 mile 
 (N.N. E.) from Cathcart ; containing 143 inhabitants. 
 It is seated in the eastern part of the parish, and a 
 short distance east of the road from Cathcart to Glasgow : 
 the Cart water flows south of the village. 
 
 HARDGATE, a village, in that part of the parish of 
 Old Kilpatrick which formed the quoad sacra parish 
 of Duntocher, county of Dumbarton, 2 miles (E.) 
 from Old Kilpatrick ; containing 467 inhabitants. This 
 is one of numerous thriving villages which have sprung 
 up in this great manufacturing district within the present 
 century. It arose from the erection of the mill here, in 
 1831, for spinning and weaving cotton, by Mr. Dunn, a 
 large proprietor of land in this quarter, and the enter- 
 prising founder of several other mills and works in the 
 vicinity. The villages of Hardgate, Duntocher, Faifley, 
 and Milton, in which Mr. Dunn has considerable esta- 
 blishments, are all within less than a mile of each other, 
 
 4 B
 
 H A R R 
 
 and border oa the Firth of Clyde, which flows on the 
 south of the parish. 
 
 HARDGATE, a hamlet, in the parish of Urr, stew- 
 artry of Kirkcudbright, 65 miles (N. E.) from Castle- 
 Douglas ; containing 46 inhabitants. It lies in the 
 centre of the parish, a short distance northward of the 
 church. 
 
 HARRAY, county of Orkney. — See Birsay. 
 
 HARRIS, a parish, in the county of Inverness, 44 
 miles (N. W.) from Portree ; containing, with the islands 
 of Bernera, Ensay, Hermitray, Killigray, Pabbay, Seal- 
 pay, Scarp, and Tarrinsay , 4429 inhabitants. The parish 
 of Harris was till lately called Kilbride ; its present 
 name is corrupted from the Gaehc term na hardibh, sig- 
 nifying " the heights ", this district being the highest and 
 most mountainous of any in the large Hebridean island 
 of Lewis. It consists chiefly of the southern part of 
 that island, separated from the northern portion by an 
 isthmus about six miles across, formed by the approach 
 to each other of the two great harbours. Loch Resort 
 and Loch Seaforth. The Atlantic Ocean bounds it on 
 the west ; on the east is the Minch, which separates it 
 from the Isle of Skye ; and on the south is the channel 
 generally called the Sound of Harris, but sometimes 
 Caolas Uist, or the Sound of Uist, lying between Harris 
 and the islands of Bernera and North Uist. The parish 
 is fifty^miles in length, varies in breadth from eight to 
 twenty-four miles, and comprises an area of upwards of 
 118,000 acres, of which about 107,000 are moor and 
 pasture, 1000 subject to tillage by the plough and "'tOO 
 by the spade, 400 under plantations, and the remainder 
 sand and rock. The shore on the west is in some parts 
 sandy, and in others strongly marked by precipitous 
 rocks ; the eastern coast is broken with many harbours, 
 bays, and creeks. At a small distance on the west are 
 the inhabited islands of Tarrinsay and Scarp ; on the 
 east side is the inhabited isle of Scalpay ; and in the 
 Sound of Harris, a channel about nine miles in breadth, 
 affording a communication for vessels between the Minch 
 and the Atlantic, are the inhabited islands of Bernera, 
 Pabbay, Ensay, and Killigray ; with many smaller ones, 
 uninhabited, and entirely appropriated to pasturage. The 
 coasts abound with oysters and lobsters, and several 
 boats are engaged in taking the latter : the sun-fish, 
 also, is sometimes taken in the summer months, with the 
 harpoon ; and in the island of Gaasker, seals are killed 
 in large numbers with clubs. 
 
 The mainland of the parish is divided into two dis- 
 tinct portions by an isthmus about a quarter of a mile in 
 breadth, formed by an arm of the sea on each side, 
 respectively called East and West Loch Tarbert. The 
 northern district is prominently intersected by part of a 
 range of mountains running longitudinally throughout 
 the parish, and which attain an elevation of from 2000 
 to 3000 feet above the level of the sea. This portion is 
 traversed by large herds of deer, which range among the 
 hills and glens ; and, though destitute of wood, is called 
 the Forest, having at one time, as is supposed, been a 
 royal forest. The surface of the southern portion of the 
 parish is similar in appearance to that of the former, 
 but marked by more moderate elevations : grouse, wild- 
 geese, plover, and pigeons are numerous on the moors 
 and lower grounds ; and the eagle is a visitant of some 
 of the most lofty rocks. There are fresh-water lakes 
 and rivulets in the parish in every direction ; the waters 
 554 
 
 H A S C 
 
 of Lacksta, Scurt, and Obbe abound with salmon and 
 trout. Harris is chiefly pastoral, only a very small 
 portion, on account of the intractable nature of the 
 ground, being capable of the regular operations of hus- 
 bandry. The soil of a large part of the land in cultiva- 
 tion is very poor ; and several of the best farms, for- 
 merly possessed by small tenants, have been consolidated, 
 and converted into sheep-walks. The crops consist 
 principally of oats, barley, and potatoes ; the lise stock 
 are mostly black-cattle and Cheviot sheep, to the breed 
 of which particular attention is paid. The small tenants 
 occupy cottages of unhewn stone, cemented with clay, 
 and covered with straw thatch, the one building in some 
 instances serving for the family and the cows and horses. 
 On all the larger farms are steadings of a superior order. 
 Here is a shooting-seat belonging to the Earl of Dun- 
 more, who is proprietor of the parish, the annucd value 
 of real property in which is £4015. 
 
 About 250 families are engaged during the summer 
 months in the manufacture of kelp, 600 tons of which 
 are annually prepared : attempts were made by the late 
 proprietor to establish fishing-stations in several parts 
 of the parish, but they all proved unsuccessful. The 
 harbour of Scalpay, on the eastern coast, is much fre- 
 quented by foreign ships ; and the numerous bays and 
 creeks are convenient places of resort for small craft. 
 Kelp, and wool and other country produce, are sent off 
 by sea to market ; and the lobsters taken here are regu- 
 larly sent by smacks to London. A packet runs twice 
 a week in summer, and once a week in winter, between 
 Tarbert, in Harris, and Uig, in the Isle of Skye. An 
 annual fair is held at Tarbert, in July, for the sale of 
 cattle and horses ; the sheep graziers send their stock to 
 the Falkirk tryst. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the 
 presbytery of Uist, synod of Glenelg, and in the patron- 
 age of the Earl of Dunmore : the minister's stipend is 
 £158. 6. 8., of which nearly two-thirds are received 
 from the exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe valued at 
 £45 per annum. A new church with 400 sittings has 
 been lately built, the old edifice, accommodating only 
 250 persons, having become too ruinous for public wor- 
 ship. At Bernera is a government church, erected in 
 1829, to which a district is attached consisting of the 
 islands adjacent to Bernera belonging to the parish. A 
 missionary is supported at Tarbert by the Royal Bounty ; 
 the church and manse were provided by A. N. Macleod, 
 Esq., the late proprietor, and the Earl of Dunmore has 
 granted an excellent glebe to the missionary. His lord- 
 ship, also, secures to the parish the services of a surgeon, 
 who, in addition to his fees from the people, receives 
 from Lord Dunmore a salary of about £70 a year. The 
 parochial school affords instruction in Latin, in addition 
 to the ordinary branches ; the master has a salary of 
 £30, with a house, and about £6 fees. Other schools 
 are supported, and at Tarbert is a school maintained by 
 the Education Committee of the General Assembly. The 
 chief relic of antiquity is the ruin of a church at Rodil, 
 once attached to the priory of St. Clement's, and, until 
 it became too much dilapidated, used as the parochial 
 place of worship. 
 
 HARTHILL, a village, in the parish of Bertram- 
 Shotts, Middle ward of the county of Lanark ; con- 
 taining 176 inhabitants. 
 
 HASCUSSAY, an isle, in the parish of Mid and 
 South Yell, in the county of Shetland ; containing 42 
 
 I 
 
 I
 
 HAVE 
 
 H A WI 
 
 inhabitants. Hascussay lies on the east side of Yell, in 
 Colgrave sound, and west of the isle of Fetlar ; it is one 
 of the smaller of the Shetland group, and was formerly 
 uninhabited. 
 
 HASSENDEAN, a sort of hamlet, in the parish of 
 MiNTO, district of Jedburgh, county of Roxburgh, 7 
 miles (W.) from Jedburgh ; containing 21 inhabitants. 
 This place is seated on a small stream of the same name. 
 Hassendean was anciently a parish, the lands of which 
 are now divided among the parishes of Minto, Wilton, 
 and Roberton. After the Reformation the church and 
 its pertinents were granted to Walter, Earl of Buccleuch. 
 There was formerly a cell here, dependent on the abbey 
 of Melrose ; and a farm adjoining the church site con- 
 tinues to bear the name of the Monks' croft. The church 
 and greater part of the churchyard have been washed 
 away by the river Teviot, which passes on the south of 
 the parish of Minto, and of which the Hassendean burn 
 is a tributary. Nor is any thing more than a slight ves- 
 tige now left of the ancient tower or stronghold of Has- 
 sendean. 
 
 HAUGH, a village, in the parish of Mauchline, 
 district of Kyle, county of Ayr, ]§ mile (S.) from 
 Mauchline ; containing 79 inhabitants. It is seated on 
 the north bank of the river Ayr, and has a woollen ma- 
 nufactory, chiefly for carpet yarn, employing about thirty 
 persons. 
 
 HAUGH, a village, in the parish of Urr, stewartry 
 of Kirkcudbright, 4^ miles (N. E.) from Castle-Dou- 
 glas ; containing 240 inhabitants. It is situated on the 
 Urr water, about a mile westward from the church, and 
 is one of the four most populous villages in the parish. 
 
 HAUGH-HEAD, a village, in the parish of Campsie, 
 county of Stirling ; containing 328 inhabitants. This 
 place is situated in the western part of the parish, and 
 is one of several villages the population of which is en- 
 gaged in the coal-mines, print-works, and print-fields of 
 the district. 
 
 HAUGH-MILL, a village, in that part of the parish 
 of Markinch which formed the quoad sacra parish of 
 Milton of Balgonie, county of Fife ; containing 17O in- 
 habitants. This village has risen since the erection of 
 some mills, in 1794, for the spinning of flax and tow 
 into canvass yarn, for which purpose they continued to 
 be employed till 1832, when the present proprietor in- 
 troduced a complete set of new machinery, for the spin- 
 ning of the finer yarns for home-made linens. In 1835, 
 he greatly augmented the number of spindles, now 
 amounting to 2000. The machinery is propelled by two 
 water-wheels of forty-horse power; and from twenty- 
 five to thirty tons of flax are consumed monthly, im- 
 ported chiefly from Holland, Belgium, France, Arch- 
 angel, Riga, and St. Petersburg. In 1836, a spacious 
 bleachfield was established in connexion with the works ; 
 and these together afford employment to about 185 per- 
 sons, many of whom live in cottages built upon the pre- 
 mises. 
 
 HAVEN, EAST, a village, in the parish of Panbride, 
 county of Forfar, 4{ miles (S. W.) from Arbroath ; 
 containing 145 inhabitants. This place derives its affix 
 East from its relative situation with respect to another 
 village, about a mile distant, and also on the sea-coast. 
 It is neatly built, and is inhabited chiefly by persons 
 engaged in the fishery, and in the trades requisite for 
 the supply of the immediate neighbourhood. The fish 
 
 taken are lobsters, cod, haddocks, and other kinds, which 
 are found in abundance off this part of the coast, and 
 are sent to Dundee and other places in the vicinity, and 
 to the London market. Great quantities of lobsters are 
 forwarded to London.beingkept alive during the passage 
 by the free admission of sea- water into wells constructed 
 for that purpose. The cod and haddocks are sold fresh 
 at Dundee, and markets in the vicinity ; and after the 
 supply of the neighbourhood, many are salted, and ex- 
 ported to distant places. Three boats are employed in 
 the fishery : the season for the lobster-fishing commences 
 in the beginning of February, and usually terminates 
 about the end of May. A considerable trade, also, is 
 carried on here, during the summer, in the importation 
 of coal and lime ; and there are four vessels belonging 
 to this place and West Haven, varying in burthen from 
 about fifty to seventy tons. The village has no properly 
 constructed harbour, but merely an open cove or landing- 
 place, accessible to vessels of eighty tons ; so that, from 
 the want of shelter, the trade is entirely discontinued 
 during the winter. Facility of intercourse is afforded 
 by the turnpike-road from Dundee to Arbroath, and by 
 the Dundee and Arbroath railway, which has an inter- 
 mediate station at East Haven, a handsome structure in 
 the Elizabethan style, furnished with every requisite ac- 
 commodation. 
 
 HAVEN, WEST, a village, in the parish of Pan- 
 bride, county of Forfar, 6^ miles (S. W.) from Ar- 
 broath ; containing 301 inhabitants. This village is 
 situated on the coast, at a distance of a mile only from 
 East Haven ; and, with the exception of a small hamlet 
 adjoining it, to the landward, is in every respect so iden- 
 tified with that village in its fishery, trade, and other 
 circumstances, as to require no separate description. 
 Easy intercourse is afforded by the Dundee and Arbroath 
 turnpike-road, and the Dundee and Arbroath railway. 
 The members of the Free Church have a place of worship. 
 
 HAVERA, county of Shetland. — See Halvera. 
 
 HAWICK, a burgh of 
 barony and a parish, in the 
 district of Hawick, county 
 of Roxburgh, 10 miles (W. 
 S. W.) from Jedburgh, and 
 53 (S. S. E.) from Edinburgh ; 
 containing about 8000 inha- 
 bitants, of whom about 7000 
 are in the burgh. This place, 
 the name of which simply 
 denotes " a village or town 
 in the bend of a river", is of 
 remote antiquity, and is ge- 
 nerally supposed to have been originally of Saxon foun- 
 dation ; but very little of its history is known prior to 
 the commencement of the fourteenth century. The first 
 authentic notice of the burgh occurs in a charter granted 
 by Robert Bruce ; and the barony, together with that 
 of Sprouston, appears to have been conferred by David 
 II. on Thomas de Murray, from whom it descended, 
 during that king's reign, to Maurice, Earl of Strathearn. 
 In the early part of the fifteenth century, it became the 
 property of Sir William Douglas, who, for his gallant 
 services in the wars of the border, obtained from James I. 
 a charter, confirming to him the lands of Hawick, and 
 bestowing also those of Selkirk and Drumlanrig. The 
 barony remained for many generations in the possession 
 
 4 B 2 
 
 Burgh Seal.
 
 H A W I 
 
 H A W t 
 
 of his descendants, of whom Sir William Douglas was 
 ia 1639 created Earl of Queensberry, Viscount Drum- 
 lanrig, aud Lord Hawick. It subsequently became the 
 property of the Scott family, who continued to exercise 
 lordly authority over their feudatories till the year 17-17, 
 when, on the final abolition of heritable jurisdictions, the 
 Duke of Buccleuch received from parliament the sum of 
 £400, as a compensation. 
 
 During the border warfare, the town suffered repeated 
 devastation. In 1418 it was burnt by the forces under 
 Sir Robert UmfraviUe, governor of Berwick, and in 1544 
 was laid waste by the troops of Sir Ralph Evers and Sir 
 Brian Latoun. In 1570, to prevent its occupation by 
 the English under the Earl of Surrey, the inhabitants 
 themselves set fire to the town, which, with the excep- 
 tion of the ancient castle, called the Black Tower, was 
 wholly destroyed. On rebuilding the town after these 
 calamities, the dangers to which it was exposed led to 
 the adoption of a peculiar style of architecture ; the 
 houses were built of rough whinstone, with walls of 
 massive thickness, and without any entrance except 
 from a court-yard in the rear. Of these buildings, each 
 of which was well calculated for defence, there are still 
 some few specimens remaining. From its situation near 
 the confluence of two rivers, the town is exposed to 
 inundations ; and in 1767, after a heavy fall of rain, the 
 Slitrig, in the course of two hours, rose twenty feet above 
 its ordinary level, and carried away the garden wall of the 
 manse, the parish schoolroom, a corn-mill, and the whole 
 of the houses in one street. 
 
 The TOWN is pleasantly seated on the south-east bank 
 of the Teviot, and is divided into two parts by the river 
 Slitrig, which flows through it into the former stream. 
 It consists of one principal street, and of several smaller 
 streets and lanes diverging from the main thoroughfare 
 on both sides ; some new streets have been formed, and 
 two handsome ranges of buildings erected called Slitrig- 
 crescent and Teviot-crescent. The streets are well paved, 
 and lighted with gas ; and the inhabitants are amply 
 supplied with water, conveyed by pipes. Connecting 
 the opposite sides of the town are two bridges over the 
 Slitrig, one of which is of antique character ; and to- 
 wards the eastern extremity, an elegant bridge has been 
 erected across the Teviot. The approach to the town, 
 both from the east and west, derives great beauty 
 from the nursery grounds and gardens in those direc- 
 tions i the surrounding scenery, also, is very pleasing. 
 A public subscription library, established in 176'2, is 
 supported by a proprietary of shareholders, and forms a 
 collection of 3500 volumes ; the trades' library, opened 
 in ISO'i, consists of 1'200 volumes ; and there are several 
 smaller libraries. In the town are also three reading 
 and news rooms, as well as subscription assembly-rooms, 
 which are used occasionally for public meetings. 
 
 Tlie staple trade is the woollen manufacture, which 
 of late has been rapidly increasing, and is carried on to 
 a very considerable extent. The weaving of coarse 
 woollen stockings was first introduced in 1771, by Mr. 
 John Hardie, and, on his retiring from the concern in 
 17B0, was continued on a much larger scale by Mr. 
 John Nixon. Still comparatively little was done pre- 
 viously to the adoption of machinery for the spinning of 
 yarn, which took place about the commencement of the 
 present century. Since that period the woollen manu- 
 facture has greatly increased in variety and extent ,- 
 556 
 
 and there are now eleven factories belonging to the manu- 
 facturers of the place, some of them situated within the 
 limits of the adjoining parish of Wilton. In all of these, 
 machinery on the most approved principles is employed ; 
 four of the factories are partly driven by water and 
 partly by steam, and the others by water only. The 
 principal articles are under-clothing, flannels, plaidings, 
 shawls, tweeds, tartans, druggets, and woollen cloths of 
 every description, lambs'-wool hosiery of the finest tex- 
 ture, and Scottish and English blankets. The produc- 
 tion of these affords occupation, including women and 
 children, to nearly 3000 persons. There are also many 
 persons employed in the making of thongs, gloves, can- 
 dles, and in the tanning of leather and dressing of sheep- 
 skins i the manufacture of machinery of all kinds is 
 considerable, and there are numerous masons, carpen- 
 ters, smiths, millwrights, and others occupied in handi- 
 craft trades. The post-office has a good dehvery ; and 
 previously to the alteration in the rates of postage the 
 revenue amounted to £1000. There are three branch 
 banks, and a savings' bank, in which latter the deposits 
 are nearly £7000. The market is on Thursday, and is 
 amply supplied with grain and with all kinds of provi- 
 sions. Fairs are held on the l/th of May, for cattle 
 and the hiring of servants; on the SOth and 21st of 
 September, for sheep ; on the third Tuesday in Octo- 
 ber, for cattle and horses ; and on the 8th of November, 
 for cattle and for hiring servants. Facility of communi- 
 cation is afforded by the Edinburgh and Hawick rail- 
 way, formed under an act of parliament passed in 1845; 
 by turnpike and statute-labour roads, which have been 
 greatly improved, and by bridges over the rivers, kept in 
 excellent repair. 
 
 The more ancient records of the btirgh were lost in 
 the destruction of the town during the border wars ; and 
 the oldest charter now extant is that granted by James 
 Douglas of Drumlanrig, baron of Hawick, and dated in 
 1537. Under this charter, ratified and extended in 
 1545 by Mary, Queen of Scots, the inhabitants exercise 
 all the privileges of a royal burgh, with the exception of 
 sending a member to parliament. There are two bailies, 
 elected annually, a treasurer, and a council of thirty-one 
 members, of whom fifteen are appointed as vacancies 
 occur, and hold their seats for life, and fourteen are 
 chosen every year by the seven incorporated trades, each 
 of which returns two. The fees for admission as a bur- 
 gess are, for strangers £4, for the sons-in-law of bur- 
 gesses £2, and for sons £1. In Hawick the incorpo- 
 rated trades are, the weavers, tailors, hammermen, skin- 
 ners, shoemakers, butchers, and bakers, the highest fee 
 for admission into which is ten shillings. The magis- 
 trates hold courts when requisite, both for civil and 
 criminal cases within the burgh, in which they are 
 assisted by the town-clerk, who acts as assessor ; in 
 civil pleas their jurisdiction extends to suras of any 
 amount, but in criminal cases is confined to petty mis- 
 demeanors. The corporation possess a property near 
 the town, of nearly 1200 acres, granted to them by 
 Douglas of Drumlanrig, in 1537, it is believed, as a 
 reward for the valour of the inhabitants at the battle of 
 Flodden-Field in 1513. The income of the burgh, de- 
 rived almost exclusively from land, and which is rapidly 
 increasing, exceeds £600 per annum : the debits amount 
 to £3000. Annually, on the last Friday in May, O. S., 
 a procession of the magistrates on horseback occurs.
 
 H A WI 
 
 HEB R 
 
 which is called the riding of the marches ; and on this 
 occasion, a standard taken in 1514, the year after that 
 on which the battle of Flodden Field was fought, is 
 carried before them. There is a town-hall, in which the 
 courts are held ; and a gaol has been erected for the town 
 and district. 
 
 The PARISH is situated in the western part of the 
 county, and is about fifteen miles and a half in length, 
 and rather more than a mile and a half in average breadth, 
 comprising an area of 15,360 acres, of which 4100 are 
 arable, 160 woodland and plantations, and 11,100 mea- 
 dow and pasture. Its surface is beautifully diversified. 
 A sinuous valley, watered by the river Teviot, intersects 
 the parish nearly through the whole length, and is 
 bounded on either side by ranges of hills, clothed with 
 verdure to their summits, and several of which have a 
 considerable elevation. The vale of the SUtrig, inter- 
 secting the parish towards the east, forms also a rich 
 pa.storal district, but of more wild and secluded aspect. 
 The scenery is greatly enlivened by the windings of the 
 two rivers, which unite at the town ; and the hills com- 
 mand a varied prospect over the adjacent country. Along 
 the banks of the streams the soil is in general gravelly, 
 and on the other arable lands a light loam. The system 
 of agriculture has much improved within the last few 
 years ; a considerable quantity of waste land has been 
 drained, and rendered profitable, and the breed of stock 
 has been improved. The usual crops are, grain of every 
 kind, with potatoes and turnips. The farm-buildings 
 are commodiously arranged ; all the various improve- 
 ments in agricultural implements have been adopted ; 
 and great attention is paid to the breeds of cattle and 
 sheep, numbers of which are reared in the pastoral dis- 
 tricts. In this parish the plantations are well managed, 
 and in a thriving state. The rocks are composed chiefly 
 of greywncke ; and there are some quarries of stone of 
 good quality fur building purposes, and for the roads. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is 
 £12,923. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Jedburgh, synod of Merse 
 and Teviotdale. The minister's stipend is £2/8, with a 
 manse, and a glebe valued at £56 per annum ; patron, 
 the Duke of Buccleuch. The parish church, erected in 
 1764, on rising ground in the centre of the town, is a 
 plain structure containing 704 sittings, a number totally 
 inadequate to the population. An elegant new church 
 has been erected by the duke, which, in consequence of 
 the decayed state of the parish church, is occupied by 
 the congregation of the Establishment : it contains up- 
 wards of 1500 sittings. The members of the Free 
 Church have also a place of worship ; and there are 
 places of worship for the United Presbyterian Church, 
 Independents, Roman Catholics, and Society of Friends. 
 The parochial school is under the management of a 
 rector and his assistant, who divide between them a 
 salary of £33 paid by the heritors, £19 the proceeds of 
 a bequest by the Rev. Alexander Orrock in 1711, and 
 fees averaging £106; of all which the rector has three- 
 fifths, with an allowance of £17 in lieu of a dwelling- 
 house, and the assistant two-fifths. This school is at- 
 tended by about 220 children, who are instructed in the 
 Latin, Greek, and French languages, the mathematics, 
 &c. An infants' school was lately opened ; and there is 
 a school in the hamlet of Newmill, endowed by the 
 557 
 
 heritors with a salary of £12 to the master, in addition 
 to his fees, which average £18 per annum. At the upper 
 extremity of the town are the remains of a moat, sup- 
 posed to have been a place of sepulture, and afterwards 
 for administering justice ; and in various parts of the 
 parish are vestiges of border fortresses, the most re- 
 markable of which is that called the Black Tower, the 
 baronial seat of the lords of Drumlanrig, subsequently 
 the residence of Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch and Mon- 
 mouth, and now forming part of the Tower inn. Another 
 is attached to the castle of Branxholme, the ancient 
 residence of the Buccleuch family, and celebrated by 
 Sir Walter Scott in his Lay of the Last Minstrel. This 
 castle was burnt by the Earl of Northumberland, in 
 1532, and blown up with gunpowder during the invasion 
 of the Earl of Surrey, in 15*0 ; but was partly rebuilt, 
 according to an inscription on the walls, by " Sir W. Scott, 
 of Branxheim, Knyte," in 1574, and completed by "Dame 
 Margaret Douglas, his spous," in 1576. On the brow 
 of a hill at Goldielands, about two miles distant, is a 
 third border fortress, which retains much of its original 
 character, and is said to have been the residence of the 
 Goldie family. An ancient vessel of bronze, with a handle 
 and spout, and standing on three feet, which is supposed 
 to have been used by the Romans for sacrifice, was dug 
 up a few years since at Reasknow, and now belongs to 
 James Grieve, Esq., of Branxholme Braes, who has also 
 in his possession a coin of Alexander III., discovered in 
 the moss at Hislop, and in a very perfect state. On the 
 removal of a cairn near the town, about 1809, several 
 large stones placed edgewise, and inclosing a human 
 skull and bones of large size, were found ; and sepulchral 
 urns of rude workmanship have been discovered at va- 
 rious times. 
 
 HAWKSTONE, a hamlet, in the parish of St. 
 Madoes, county of Perth, 2^ miles (W. S. W.) from 
 Errol ; containing 51 inhabitants. It lies in the eastern 
 part of the parish, and is one of the only two hamlets, 
 or, as they are sometimes designated, villages, it con- 
 tains. Here is a large stone, which tradition says is the 
 stone whereon the hawk of the peasant Hay, the supposed 
 ancestor of the noble family of that name, alighted, after 
 it had performed its flight over the land that was, conse- 
 quently, given to that gallant rustic, in reward of the 
 services he is said to have performed at the battle of 
 Luncarty. Hence the name of the place. — See Redgor- 
 ton. 
 
 HAZELBANK, a village, in the parish of Lesma- 
 HAGOW, Upper ward of the county of Lanark, 4 miles 
 (N. by E.) from Lesmahagow ; containing 238 inhabit- 
 ants. It is situated in the north-eastern part of the 
 parish, on the road from Lanark to Larkhall, and on 
 the west bank of the Clyde, which here separates Les- 
 mahagow from the parish of Lanark. 
 
 HEBRIDES, or Western Islands, a series of 
 islands in the Atlantic Ocean, about 300 in number, of 
 which eighty-six are inhabited ; lying at various distances 
 from the western coast of the Highlands ; and chiefly per- 
 taining to the counties of Argyll, Inverness, and Ross. 
 Of the early history of these islands but very little is 
 known ; they appear to have been anciently under the 
 jurisdiction of petty chieftains, sometimes independent, 
 and at other times tributary to the kings of Norway. 
 About the twelfth century, these chieftains began to 
 meditate inroads on the main land : in 1153, Somerled
 
 H EL E 
 
 HELE 
 
 invaded Scotland, and made an attempt to dethrone 
 Malcolm IV., in which he was defeated by the Earl of 
 Angus ; and on a subsequent occasion he was slain in a 
 battle near Renfrew. After the death of Magnus, son of 
 OJave, the last of the independent chieftains, the sove- 
 reignty of the isles was ceded to Alexander III., by 
 treaty signed at Perth in 1266 ; but notwithstanding 
 that treaty, the descendants of the old chieftains as- 
 sumed the title of lords of the isles, and exercised a 
 jurisdiction irrespective of the crown. Of these, John, 
 lord of Cantyre, married a daughter of Robert II. ; and 
 from this alliance, his family derived a great accession 
 of power and influence. Donald, his son, at the head of 
 10,000 men, ravaged the county of Ross, but was even- 
 tually defeated, in 141 1. James I. waged incessant war 
 against these turbulent chiefs, many of whom he took 
 prisoners, and hanged ; and Donald, lord of the isles, 
 was put to death in Ireland ; but it was not till the reign 
 of James V. that the lords were brought into complete 
 subjection to the Scottish crown. Of these various isles, 
 the principal of which are separately described, that of 
 Lewis, with its adjacent islands, chiefly belongs to the 
 county of Ross ; those of Barra, Eig, North Uist, South 
 Uist, Skye, and smaller isles, to the county of Inverness ; 
 and Canna, Muck, Rum, Gigha, Colonsay, Oronsay, 
 Tiree, Coll, Mull, Jura, and Islay, with the circumjacent 
 isles, to the county of Argyll. 
 
 HECK, a hamlet, in the parish of Lochmaben, county 
 of Dumfries, 2^^ miles (W. S. W.) from Lockerbie ; con- 
 taining 5" inhabitants. It lies on the west side of the 
 river Annan, which forms the eastern boundary of the 
 parish. The village is ancient, and is one of several the 
 holm ground around which is extremely rich and fertile. 
 Mention is made of the place in royal warrants under the 
 sign-manual of James VI. and of Charles II. 
 
 HEISKER, an isle, in the parish of North Uist, 
 county of Inverness ; containing 39 inhabitants. It is 
 one of the Hebrides, lying about two miles westward of 
 North Uist ; and is two miles in length, but very narrow. 
 The soil is sandy, yielding very scanty pasture at any 
 time, and but a small quantity of grain. The isle has 
 hitherto derived its chief value from its kelp shores. 
 
 HELENSBURGH, a town, chiefly in the parish of 
 Row, and partly in that of Cardross, county of Dum- 
 barton ; containing, in 1841,2229 inhabitants, of whom 
 16/2 were in the burgh of barony of Helensburgh, 8 
 miles (N. W. by W.) from Dumbarton. This place is 
 situated on the north shore of the Firth of Clyde, at the 
 entrance of the Gareloch, and nearly opposite to the port 
 of Greenock on the other side of the Firth, which is here 
 about four miles in width. It was founded in 1777, by 
 Sir James Colquhoun, in honour of his wife. Lady Helen 
 Sutherland, from whom it derives its name ; and has 
 rapidly grown into importance as a fashionable watering- 
 place, and a favourite resort of families of distinction 
 during the summer months. The town is regularly built, 
 and comprises one principal street, extending along the 
 shore for more than a mile, and intersected at right 
 angles by numerous other well-formed streets. The 
 houses are of handsome appearance, and interspersed 
 with pleasing villas having grounds tastefully laid out ; 
 the surrounding scenery, also, is agreeably diversified. 
 On the opposite shore of the Gareloch are the elegant 
 mansion and pleasure-grounds of Roseneath ; and at 
 the western extremity of the town is Ardincaple, the 
 558 
 
 beautiful seat of the Duke of Argyll, who is also pro- 
 prietor of Roseneath. Along the banks of the Gareloch 
 are various interesting promenades ; and to the north, 
 the scenery is boldly marked with rugged mountains of 
 Highland character. A public library of more than 1000 
 volumes, and a newsroom amply furnished with daily 
 journals and periodical publications, are supported by 
 subscription ; there are two commodious hotels, with 
 several inns, and also numerous lodging-houses for the 
 accommodation of visiters. On the shore, at the east 
 end of the town, is a spacious and well- arranged build- 
 ing containing hot and cold baths with every requisite 
 appendage. 
 
 Facility of intercourse is provided by steamers to 
 Greenock, which make nine trips daily ; and from Gree- 
 nock there are steamers to Glasgow, touching at all the 
 intermediate places on both banks of the Clyde. Be- 
 tween Greenock and Glasgow are also six railway trains, 
 in connexion with the Helensburgh boats ; and persons 
 leaving Glasgow by these trains reach Helensburgh in 
 one hour and a half. The passage, by steam-boat, to 
 Glasgow, is about three hours, and to Greenock a quarter 
 of an hour. An act of parliament was passed in 1846, 
 authorizing the construction of a railway from Glasgow 
 to Dumbarton and Loch Lomond, with branches to 
 Helensburgh and other places. The quay, formed in 
 1817, and which at high water was partly obstructed, 
 has been greatly improved ; and a very substantial and 
 commodious quay has been made about a mile westward 
 of the town, at the entrance of the Gareloch. The town 
 was erected into a burgh of barony by charter granted 
 in 1802 to Sir James Colquhoun, under whom, as supe- 
 rior, the government was vested in a provost, two bailies, 
 and four councillors, elected annually by the burgesses 
 from their own body, consisting of all inhabitants who 
 are leaseholders of houses and lands under the supe- 
 rior. In 1846 an act was passed for extending the 
 limits of the burgh, for lighting and cleansing it, and 
 establishing a police ; also, in the same year, an act for 
 improving the port and harbour. A weekly market on 
 Thursday, and four annual fairs of two days each for 
 horses, cattle, and other merchandise, on the second 
 Tuesday in February, the 1st June, the 6th August, and 
 the 12th November, are allowed by charter ; but they are 
 not much frequented. The quoad sacra parish of Helens- 
 burgh was separated from the parish of Row, by act of 
 the presbytery, in 1S39, and contained a population of 
 1899 : it was abolished in 1843, in common with all 
 similar divisions in the country, as being illegal. The 
 church was originally built for a congregation of dis- 
 senters, in 1824, and, on their re-union to the Established 
 Church, was made parochial. It passed, however, in 
 1843, into the hands of the Free Church, the minister 
 and congregation joining in the great secession of that 
 year. The building contains 600 sittings ; and there is 
 also an Independent meeting-house in the town. Mr. 
 Henry Bell, who first successfully applied the steam- 
 engine to navigation, resided at this place from 1804 till 
 his decease in 1830 ; his first steam-boat, the Comet, 
 was built at Port-Glasgow, in 1812, and he made his first 
 passage across the Clyde to Helensburgh. 
 
 HELESAY, an island, in the parish of Barra, county 
 of Inverness ; containing 108 inhabitants. It is one 
 of a numerous group of isles that lie in the strait between 
 Barra and South Uist, from the former of which it is
 
 HERB 
 
 HE Rl 
 
 about five miles distant. On the west of the island is 
 Ottervore Sound. 
 
 HELMSDALE, a fishing-village, in the parish of 
 Loth, county of Sutherland, 17 miles (N. E.) from 
 Golspie ; containing 526 inhabitants. This village is 
 situated on the north bank of the river Helmsdale, near 
 its influx into the Moray Firth. The place consists 
 chiefly of neatly-built houses inhabited by persons en- 
 gaged in the fisheries, and is connected with the western 
 portion of the parish by a handsome bridge of two arches, 
 erected over the Helmsdale, at an expense of £3200, by 
 the parliamentary commissioners, in 1811. It has long 
 been celebrated for its valuable salmon-fisheries on the 
 river, belonging to the Duke of Sutherland, and which 
 are carefully managed under the superintendence of the 
 proprietor's agents : the fish are of superior size and 
 flavour, and are sent packed in ice to the London mar- 
 ket, where they are purchased by contract. The herring- 
 fishery, in the Firth, is also very extensive : houses for 
 curing the herrings have been built on a principle well 
 adapted for the purpose; and since the year 1815, the 
 quantity cured at this place has gradually increased from 
 about 5000 to 46,000 barrels annually. The whole of the 
 herrings are now exported to the continent and to Ireland. 
 Helmsdale harbour was greatly improved by the erection 
 of a substantial pier by the proprietor, at a cost of £1600, 
 in 1818, since which time additional sums have been ex- 
 pended ; and still further improvements are in contem- 
 plation. The fishery affords employment to a very 
 considerable number of coopers, and a steam-mill has 
 been erected for sawing the staves of the barrels ; a few 
 of the boats are built here, for the fishery, and various 
 handicraft trades are carried on for the supply of the 
 inhabitants. A post-office is established, which has a 
 daily delivery ; and facility of communication is afforded 
 by the parliamentary road from Dunrobin, in the parish 
 of Golspie, to the Ord of Caithness ; by a good road from 
 the village, through the strath of Kildonan, to the North 
 Sea ; and by vessels from different ports of England and 
 Ireland, which touch at the harbour. A church, capable 
 of containing from 600 to 700 persons, was built some 
 years ago in the village by the late Duchess-Countess of 
 Sutherland, aided by a subscription by the present duke. 
 After the Disruption of the Church of Scotland, there 
 was for some time no minister appointed to it, though 
 preaching was held in it occasionally by ministers of the 
 Establishment. Divine service is now regularly per- 
 formed in the building, by a minister of the Established 
 Church, appointed to the station in 1845 in conjunction 
 with the incumbency of the neighbouring parish of 
 Kildonan. The members of the Free Church have a 
 large place of worship, opened in February 1845, and 
 capable of containing upwards of 1000 persons. There 
 are some remains of the ancient castle of Helmsdale, 
 once a hunting-seat of the Sutherland family : it is ap- 
 parently of the fourteenth century, and is memorable 
 for the death of John, the eleventh Earl of Sutherland, 
 and his countess, who were poisoned in 1567. 
 
 HERBERTSHIRE, a village, in the parish of Duni- 
 PACE, county of Stirling, 7 miles (W. N. W.) from 
 Falkirk ; containing "61 inhabitants. This village, some- 
 times called Milton, is situated on the north bank of the 
 Carron, over which is a handsome bridge of three arches, 
 connecting it with the village of Denny. The inhabit- 
 ants are chiefly engaged in the printing of calico, which 
 559 
 
 was first established here in 1783, and is conducted on 
 an extensive scale, in works belonging to Charles Carnie, 
 Esq., who has a residence near the village. The num- 
 ber of persons employed in this establishment is about 
 400, of whom 120 are females ; the process is partly 
 carried on by machinery of ingenious construction, and 
 some of the machines will imprint four different colours 
 at the same time. 
 
 HERIOT, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh ; 
 containing, with the hamlets of Fala-Hill Inn, Robertson, 
 and Broomieknowe, 355 inhabitants. The history of 
 this parish is of little interest, except as connected with 
 the various proprietors of its lands and ecclesiastical 
 revenues. The church was formerly of considerable 
 value ; and its patronage, in the twelfth and thirteenth 
 centuries, belonged to Roger de Quincy, then lord of the 
 manor, and constable of Scotland, who is supposed to 
 have derived it from the lords of Galloway, and these 
 latter from the Morvilles. In portioning out his estates 
 among his three daughters, De Quincy gave Heriot to 
 Elena, the youngest, who married La Touche, an English 
 baron, and who afterwards granted the church of " Her- 
 yeth ", as it was then called, to the monastery of New- 
 bottle, which gift was confirmed by a bull of Pope 
 Nicholas, and by Fraser, Bishop of St. Andrew's, the 
 diocesan. In 1309, William Blair, the incumbent, re- 
 signed his vicarage to Bishop Lamberton, who imme- 
 diately gave the vicarage revenues to the monks of New- 
 bottle, who already possessed the rectory. At the time 
 of the Reformation, these monks held both the church 
 and lands of Heryeth. The property soon afterwards 
 came into the hands of Mark Kerr, supposed commen- 
 dator of Newbottle, to whose heir it regularly descended ; 
 and on the death of the latter, the lands passed to his 
 son Robert, second Earl of Lothian, by whom they were 
 sold to Walter Hay, to whose son they fell in 1643. On 
 the failure of this family in 1692 by the death of Lord 
 Borthwick, the barony of Heriot came to a son of Lord 
 Stair, from whom it descended, through the late Dowager 
 Lady Dalrymple, to her eldest son, the Earl of Stair, 
 present proprietor of the lands. There are six other land- 
 owners in the parish. 
 
 The PARISH, which is of oblong form, is about six miles 
 and a half long, and three and three-quarters broad, and 
 contains 15,000 acres. It is bounded on the north-west 
 by Temple and Borthwick parishes ; on the east by Stow, 
 and part of Fala ; and on the south by Innerleithen, in 
 Peeblesshire. Heriot is altogether hilly, and a pastoral 
 parish, only about one-tenth of the land being arable. 
 In some parts the ground rises to a great elevation, par- 
 ticularly in the south-east, where is the hill of Dewar, 
 about 1654 feet above the level of the sea; and also in 
 the south-west, where Blackup Scars, which is the high- 
 est hill, is 1000 feet above the sea at its base, and 2193 
 at its summit. These hills are part of the Moorfoot 
 range, which is a branch of the Lammermoor and Soutra, 
 and stretches from the north-east towards Peebles on the 
 south-west. A great variety of rare plants is to be found, 
 affording a rich field for botanical research, especially in 
 the months of August and September. The higher 
 grounds are mostly bare of trees, there being, indeed, a 
 great want of plantations in every part of the parish ; a 
 want, however, which is now being supplied by the Earl 
 of Stair. The climate, from the elevated situation of the 
 district, and the hilly character of the surface, is bleak
 
 H E R M 
 
 and piercing, though salubrious. The Heriot water rises 
 in the south-west extremity of the parish, and after wind- 
 ing for five miles, unites with the Gala at the eastern 
 boundary, about a mile and a half below the church. 
 This stream, which is subject to frequent swellings, rose 
 in August 1837 to an unusual height, destroying dykes 
 and walls, and bringing desolation to the property within 
 the range of its violence. The Gala water has its source 
 in the north, and after a course of about two miles, quits 
 the parish near its junction with the Heriot. 
 
 On the banks of the river the soil is rich and fertile, 
 and capable of producing the finest crops, but the severity 
 of the climate is a great obstacle to the operations of 
 husbandry in this parish. The wheat grown is inconsi- 
 derable, and barley is now substituted in the place of 
 bear. The number of acres under pasture is upwards of 
 12,000, of which about 1600 are considered susceptible 
 of profitable cultivation. Besides the grain, potatoes 
 and turnips of good quality are raised. The parish, 
 however, is chiefly celebrated for its sheep and cattle, 
 and the former, which are partly of the black-faced, but 
 chiefly of the Cheviot and half breeds, are reared in large 
 numbers ; about "660 sheep are regularly kept, and the 
 lambs fetch the highest prices. Of the small quantity 
 of wood grown, the beech, larch, and plane seem best 
 adapted to the soil. The farms vary in size from fifty to 
 2000 acres. Inclosures to a very considerable extent 
 have been made on the arable ground of late years : the 
 farm- steadings, also, are much improved, many of them 
 having been entirely renewed. There is no village. 
 About three miles of good turnpike-road run through 
 the parish ; but the other roads of the locality are indif- 
 ferent, and there are no facilities of this kind in the 
 higher lands for transporting lime and manure, the ex- 
 tensive application of which, for the improvement of the 
 poorer grounds, is thus prevented. Great facility of 
 intercourse is afforded by the Edinburgh and Hawick 
 railway, which has a station in the parish. The annual 
 value of real property in Heriot is £3854. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally the parish is within the bounds of the presbytery 
 of Dalkeith, synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and the 
 patronage is vested in the Earl of Stair. The stipend of 
 the minister is £158, of which about a fifth is received 
 from the exchequer; with a manse, built in 1*93, and 
 since repaired and improved, and a garden of the best 
 soil : there is also a glebe of twenty acres, valued at £30 
 per annum. The church is situated about the centre of the 
 parish, and accommodates 200 persons with sittings ; it 
 was rebuilt in 1804, and has undergone extensive repairs, 
 by which it has been rendered convenient and comfort- 
 able. A parochial school is supported in the usual man- 
 ner ; the master has a salary of £34, with a house, and 
 about £25 fees. There is also a parochial library. The 
 relics of antiquity merely comprise some camps, consist- 
 ing of two or three concentric circles ; and a gateway, 
 the history of which is unknown. 
 
 HERMISTON, a village, in the parish of Currie, 
 county of Edinburgh, 1|- mile (N. by W.) from Currie ; 
 containing 164 inhabitants. It is situated on the road 
 from Edinburgh to Mid Calder, and near the Union ca- 
 nal, both which intersect the northern part of the parish ; 
 and is the third village of Currie in extent. 
 
 HERMITRAY, an isle, in the parish of Harris, 
 county of Inverness ; containing 8 inhabitants. This 
 is one of a group of isles situated in the sound of Harris, 
 560 
 
 HILL 
 
 east of the island of Bernera. A fishing station was es- 
 tablished here by Charles I. 
 
 HERRIOTFIELD, a village, in the parish of Mon- 
 ziE, county of Perth; containing 106 inhabitants. 
 
 HESTON, an isle, in the parish of Rerwick, stew- 
 artry of Kirkcudbright. It is a small island, situated 
 at the mouth of the river Urr, which discharges itself 
 into the Solway Firth. Standing high out of the water, 
 it affords good shelter to Auchencairn bay, where is a safe 
 and commodious anchorage for small shipping. The 
 island is of smooth surface, and pastures sheep. 
 
 HIETON, a village, in the parish of Roxburgh, dis- 
 trict of Kelso, county of Roxburgh, 1 mile (E. by S.) from 
 Kelso ; containing 214 inhabitants. This village is plea- 
 santly situated on the turnpike-road leading from Kelso 
 to Jedburgh, and is inhabited chiefly by persons employed 
 in agriculture. The surrounding scenery is varied, and 
 the adjacent lands in a good state of cultivation. There 
 is a parochial school here. 
 
 fliGHTAE, a village, in the parish of Lochmaben, 
 county of Dumfries, 2| miles (S. W. by W.) from 
 Lockerbie ; containing 436 inhabitants. It is situated 
 in the eastern part of the parish, and a short distance 
 from the river Annan, which separates Lochmaben from 
 the parish of Dryfesdale. This is one of the villages de- 
 nominated the " Four Towns ", the lands around which 
 being portions of the original royal domains granted by 
 Robert Bruce in small plots to the domestic servants of 
 Lochmaben Castle, are still held without any written 
 title other than a transference, by a tenant, of his right 
 to a successor. The holm ground attached to these vil- 
 lages, of which Hightae is the largest, is uncommonly 
 rich and fertile. Loch Hightae, in the vicinity, is a fine 
 lake of fifty-two acres, abounding in perch, pike, trout, 
 bream, roach, and other fish. The Cameronians have a 
 place of worship, built in 1*96, originally for a Relief 
 congregation ; and a school is endowed with the interest 
 of £100, left by Mr. James Richardson in 1*26. — See 
 Lochmaben. 
 
 HILDASAY, an isle, in the parish of Ting wall, 
 county of Shetland. It is of small extent, and lies 
 near the south coast of the main land of Shetland, and 
 nearly parallel with Skelda Ness. 
 
 HILLEND, a village, chiefly in the parish of Inver- 
 keithing, and partly in that of Dalgety, district of 
 Dunfermline, county of Fife, 1^ mile (N. E. by E.) 
 from the town of Inverkeithing ; containing 281 inha- 
 bitants. It is situated on the road from Inverkeithing 
 to Aberdour, and a small stream flows a little to the north 
 of the village. 
 
 HILLHEAD, a hamlet, in the parish of Cockpen, 
 county of Edinburgh, 4 a mile (S. E.) from Lasswade ; 
 containing "6 inhabitants. It lies in the northern ex- 
 tremity of the parish, on the road from Lasswade to 
 Cockpen ; and in its neighbourhood are several coal- 
 mines. The scenery around is embellished with some 
 good mansions. 
 
 HILLSWICK, a hamlet, in the parish of North- 
 MAViNE, county of Shetland ; containing 211 inhabit- 
 ants. It is situated near Hillswick ness, and westward 
 of Hillswick creek, which opens into St. Magnus' bay, 
 on the north side of Shetland. The creek affords safe 
 and excellent anchorage for any number of vessels, and 
 of any burthen, having good moorings of from seven to 
 twenty fathoms. There is also a large and convenient 

 
 H O B K 
 
 HO B K 
 
 beach for drying fish, with warehouses, and salt and fish 
 cellars. Numerous voes indent this part of the coast. 
 
 HILLYLAND, a village, in the parish of Tibber- 
 MORE, county of Perth ; containing 20'2 inhabitants. 
 HILTON, county of Berwick. — See Whitsome. 
 HILTON, a hamlet, in the parish and county of In- 
 verness ; containing 64 inhabitants. 
 
 HILTOWN, a village, in the parish of Fearn, county 
 of Ross and Cromarty, 10 miles (E. S. E.) from Tain; 
 containing 310 inhabitants. This is a fishing-village, 
 lying on the eastern shore of the Moray Firth : the fish- 
 ing is chiefly of grey fish and herrings, and is carried on 
 to a considerable extent, in connexion with the village of 
 Balintore, about half a mile southward. The coast be- 
 tween the two places is level and sandy ; at Hiltown, how- 
 ever, it becomes high and rocky. 
 
 HOBKIRK, or HOPEKIRK, a parish, in the district 
 of Jedburgh, county of Roxburgh, 8 miles (E. S. E.) 
 from Hawick ; containing 776 inhabitants. This parish 
 appears to have derived its name from the situation of 
 its church in a hope, or narrow dale. It is eleven miles 
 in length from north to south, and three miles in breadth ; 
 and is bounded on the north by the parishes of Cavers 
 and Bedrule, on the east by the parish of Southdean 
 and a small part of that of Jedburgh, on the south by 
 Castleton, and on the west by Cavers and Kirkton. 
 The surface is strikingly varied. In the southern ex- 
 tremity is a chain of hills forming part of the Cheviot 
 range, and on the northern boundary is the Rubberslaw 
 hill, which has an elevation of 14'20 feet above the level 
 of the sea. Between this hill and the southern range is 
 the level valley of the river Rule, on the eastern bank of 
 which is the beautiful hill of Bonchester, rising in a 
 spherical form to a height of 1260 feet, and covered with 
 rich verdure to its summit. The river Rule rises in the 
 southern range of hills, flows northward through the 
 whole length of the parish, and two miles beyond falls 
 into the Teviot, after having been augmented in its course 
 by many springs of salubrious water, and many streams 
 from the surrounding heights. This stream, with its 
 valley, is one of the prettiest and most sequestered in 
 the south of Scotland. It abounds with excellent trout, 
 and affords capital sport to the angler, though the shal- 
 lows are too often swept by the net. 
 
 In general the soil is a red tenacious clay, presenting 
 numerous boulders, frequently of greenstone. The green- 
 stone rock forms caps to certain of the hills ; red sand- 
 stone pervades the northern and eastern, and greywacke 
 the western division of the parish, while a bed of lime- 
 stone encroaches on its south-western border. A little 
 northward of this, at Robertsliu, occurs a stratum of 
 agate or coarse jasper, from which brooches, seals, and 
 other ornaments are made. The sandstone is freely em- 
 ployed for building purposes, and the limestone, when 
 burnt, offers to the enterprising husbandman a proper 
 application to the stiff clay of the district. The cultivated 
 lands stretch along the valley : in the higher grounds 
 heath or spongy moss prevails, except upon the lime- 
 stone bottom around Langburnshiels, which yields 
 perhaps the best pasturage of all unimproved farms in 
 the country. The whole number of acres in the parish 
 may be estimated at 19,000, of which 3.500 are under 
 the plough, 900 in woods or plantations, and the re- 
 mainder in meadow, pasture, and waste land. The 
 crops are principally oats and turnips, with potatoes. 
 Vol. I.— 561 
 
 barley, peas, wheat, and grasses : the system of agri- 
 culture is improved ; the lands have been drained and 
 partly inclosed, and a considerable portion of waste has 
 been reclaimed and brought into cultivation. On the 
 lower grounds the fences are chiefly of thorn, sometimes 
 of whin raised upon mounds, of paling, or of reiss, for 
 which the thinnings of the woods afford ample materials : 
 on the higher or pasture grounds, stone walls are main- 
 tained. The old farmhouses or onsteads are indifferent, 
 but improvement is rapidly advancing, and all the build- 
 ings of modern erection are substantial and commodious. 
 Much attention is paid to the rearing of live stock. 
 About 10,000 sheep, of the Cheviot breed, or with a 
 cross of the Leicestershire, called half-bred, are pastured 
 in the parish ; and nearly 1500 stones of wool are an- 
 nually produced, all pure white, that is, unlaid. Up- 
 wards of 300 young cattle, principally of the short- 
 horned breed, are grazed here, and either fitted for the 
 butcher, or prepared for being fattened off upon turnip. 
 The parish is highly ornamented with trees. The older 
 woods consist of birch, hazel, alder, which are natural, 
 and Scotch fir, beech, oak, and elm ; on some estates 
 regularly thinned ; on others so much neglected that 
 large quantities of valuable timber might be cut with 
 obvious advantage to the remainder. The newer plan- 
 tations, of larch and Scotch fir, with oaks, ashes, and 
 spruces interspersed, are extensive, and thriving vigo- 
 rously. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £6269. There are no villages, and but two small 
 hamlets, each of six or eight dwellings. Facility of 
 communication is afforded with the neighbouring market- 
 towns by roads kept in excellent order, and by the turn- 
 pike-road from Hawick to Newcastle, and that from Jed- 
 burgh to Castleton, which pass nearly at right angles 
 for several miles through the parish. 
 
 For ecclesiastical purposes the parish is within 
 the bounds of the presbytery of Jedburgh, synod of 
 Merse and Teviotdale ; and the patronage is in the 
 Crown. The stipend of the incumbent is £206 ; the 
 manse, which has been repaired within the last few years, 
 is a comfortable dwelling so far as its accommodation 
 extends, and the glebe, with half the glebe of the sup- 
 pressed parish of Abbotrule, is valued at £40 per annum. 
 The church, erected in 1700, and repaired in 1777 and 
 in other years, is well situated, but a damp uncomfortable 
 edifice, capable of accommodating a congregation of 400 
 persons : the floor, as in most ancient churches, is below 
 the level of the churchyard. The parochial school, which 
 is yet more incommodious, affords education to SO or 90 
 children ; the master has a house, with a salary of £32. 
 10., including an allowance in lieu of a garden, while the 
 school-fees average £24 per annum. A subscription 
 library has been established, and meets with due encou- 
 ragement. A bequest of £100 was made some time 
 since by Lady Yester ; the interest is divided between 
 the heritors (for charitable purposes) and the school- 
 master. 
 
 On Bonchester hill are considerable remains of ancient 
 fortifications, some of which are square, and others of 
 circular form, intersected also by lines of more modern 
 construction. This hill, which is admirably adapted for 
 the site of a camp, is supposed to have derived its name 
 from its having been occupied by the Romans for that 
 purpose. Querns, arrow-heads, and various other relics 
 of antiquity have been found here. On Rubberslaw and 
 
 4 C
 
 HODD 
 
 other heights are also traces of camps. Two cairns 
 were lately removed, which are thought to have been 
 raised over the remains of warriors slain in some battle 
 that occurred near the spot ; one of these was situated 
 on the eastern side of Rubberslaw, and the other at 
 Fodderlee. Of a battle at the latter place, there are 
 some traditionary records ; but nothing is recorded 
 respecting the former. At Langraw, a great quantity of 
 burnt bones and ashes have been discovered, within a 
 circular inclosure about eighteen feet in diameter. On 
 their removal, there were found, in the sandstone under- 
 neath, four holes, in which upright poles had been fi.\ed, 
 and secured by stones wedged in from above ; but of 
 the purpose of the erection of these, or the use to which 
 they were applied, nothing is known. Several urns have 
 been dug up in different situations. Mary, Queen of 
 Scots, passed through this parish on her route from 
 Jedburgh to Hermitage Castle, and, near its extremity, 
 was obstructed by a bog, which has been ever since 
 called the " Queen's Mire". Thomson the poet resided, 
 or frequently visited, here, and wrote his first sketch of 
 Winter from the view of Rubberslaw. 
 
 HODDAM, a parish, in the county of Dumfries, 
 6 miles (N.) from Annan ; containing, with the village 
 of Ecclesfechan, 1627 inhabitants. This parish com- 
 prehends the ancient parishes of Hoddam, Luce, and 
 Ecclesfechan, which were united in 1609. Hoddam is 
 spelt in ancient charters Hodholm and Hodolm, signi- 
 fying " the head of the holm", and is supposed to have 
 derived that appellation from its position on the bank 
 of the river Annan, where the ground is flat and rich, 
 and what is usually called holm land. The name of Luce 
 is said to be derived from the luxuriance of the herbage ; 
 and that of Ecclesfechan from the Latin word Ecclesia, 
 " a church", and an Irish abbot called Fechan, who is 
 thought to have lived in this part about the seventh 
 century. When the three parishes were united, a new 
 church was built in a central situation, and the old 
 churches gradually fell into decay. Hall-guards, in the 
 parish, was the site of the old castle of Hoddam, which 
 is considered to have been the seat of a branch of the 
 family of Bruce. The fortress was demolished some 
 centuries ago, in compliance with the terms of a border 
 treaty, and was subsequently rebuilt by John, Lord 
 Herries ; but one of that family afterwards erected a 
 castle in a more favourable situation, at Cummertrees, 
 on the other side of the Annan, and the seat in this 
 parish was then neglected. 
 
 The PARISH is about five miles long, and three and a 
 half broad, and contains "158 acres. It is bounded on 
 the north by the parish of Tundergarth, on the south 
 and south-west by the river Annan, on the east by Mid- 
 dlebie parish, and on the west by St. Mungo. Hoddam 
 is included in the district of Annandale, and is remark- 
 able for the beauty of its scenery, which is interestingly 
 diversified with wood and water. The surface consists 
 for the most part of an extensive plain, surrounded by 
 gently swelling hills ; the lands are in the highest state 
 of cultivation, and are intersected by thriving hedges, 
 and ornamented with groups of flourishing plantations. 
 The highest ground is the hill of Burnswark, 740 feet 
 above the level of the sea, and which commands views 
 of several English counties, of the Isle of Man, and, in 
 very fine weather, of the mountainous part of York- 
 shire. The streams are the Annan, the Milk, and the 
 562 
 
 HOLE 
 
 Mein, the last of which, however, is only a rivulet. Of 
 the former, the Annan is about 100 feet wide, and has 
 numerous pools fifteen or sixteen feet deep : it contains 
 salmon and trout, but the fish have become much less 
 plentiful since the use of lime in farming, as, when washed 
 off the lands by flood or rain, it strongly impregnates 
 the waters. The Milk touches the parish on the south- 
 west, and falls into the Annan ; it is a good trout stream, 
 and also abounds with small fish. The Mein, which is 
 likewise a tributary to the Annan, frequently changes 
 its channel, bringing considerable havoc to the lands 
 through which it takes its course. 
 
 On the holm lands the soil is a deep loam, and ex- 
 ceedingly fertile ; the great plain in the heart of the 
 parish is of a light gravelly soil, and also yields fine 
 crops. The high ground in the north, however, is 
 clayey, resting upon a cold till}' subsoil and a copper 
 rock, and being very inferior to the lands below. About 
 6430 acres are under cultivation ; 730 are hill pasture, 
 and upwards of sixty in wood. All kinds of grain are 
 produced, but the quantity of wheat bears no proportion 
 to the oats and barley ; a few turnips and large quanti- 
 ties of potatoes are raised, and almost every cottager 
 keeps one or two hogs, which are fed to some extent upon 
 potatoes. The best system of husbandry is adopted; 
 and all the arable land being good, and a considerable 
 portion of it of superior quality, the crops in general 
 are very valuable. The lands have been entirely inclosed, 
 within the last fifty or sixty j'ears, with good fences. In 
 this parish the substrata consist chiefly of sandstone and 
 limestone, with slate-clay, clay-ironstone, and amygda- 
 loid : no workable coal has yet been discovered ; but 
 some attempts recently made have excited a hope that 
 it will eventually be found. The annual value of real 
 property in Hoddam is £5209. The turnpike-road from 
 Lockerbie to Longtown runs through the parish, in 
 addition to which there are five cross roads. A large 
 and beautiful stone bridge has been erected over the 
 Annan, and several bridges over the Mein : these, as 
 well as the roads and fences throughout the parish, are 
 kept in good order. Great facilities of intercourse are 
 afforded by the Caledonian railway, which intersects the 
 parish, and has a station at Ecclesfechan. Ecclesiasti- 
 cally the parish is within the limits of the presbytery of 
 Annan, synod of Dumfries ; alternate patrons, the Duke 
 of Buctleuch and the Sharpe family. The stipend of 
 the minister is £2.59, with a superior manse, and three 
 glebes valued at £43. 10. a year. Hoddam church, built 
 in IS17, and standing about a mile from the village of 
 Ecclesfechan, is comfortably fitted up, and seats 561 
 persons. The United Presbyterian Church has a place 
 of worship ; and there is a parochial school, the master 
 of which receives £35 per annum, with about £12 fees. 
 At Burnswark, in the northern extremity of the parish, 
 is one of the most entire Roman encampments in the 
 kingdom : it was formed by Agricola ; and a number of 
 altar-pieces, arms, &c., have been found in its vicinity. 
 Mr. Carlyle, author of the History of the French Revolu- 
 tion, was born in the parish. — See Ecclesfechan. 
 
 HOLBURN, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in the 
 parish of Old Machar, city, district, and county, of 
 Aberdeen ; containing 3757 inhabitants. This was 
 partly a rural, and partly a town, district. A consi- 
 derable portion of the rural population may be said to 
 be congregated in three villages, the rest being dispersed 
 
 I
 
 HOLM 
 
 HOLM 
 
 over the district generally, which comprised an extent 
 of more than two and a half square miles. The church, 
 which was built by subscription, in 1836, at a cost of 
 £1858. 18. 9., and opened for divine service in Sep- 
 tember, 1837, stands at the junction of the principal 
 roads in this portion of Old Machar, and is a neat 
 edifice containing 1332 sittings. The stipend of the 
 minister is £180, derived from seat-rents, and of which 
 £100 are secured by bond : patrons, the Congregation. 
 Holburn was one of four quoad sacra parishes which 
 were formed under an act of the General Assembly in 
 1834, out of the parish of Old Machar, and were after- 
 wards abolished. 
 
 HOLEKETTLE-BRIDGE, a village, in the parish 
 of Kettle, district of Cupar, county of Fife, 1 mile 
 (S. W.) from Kettle ; containing 288 inhabitants. It 
 lies in the north-western part of the parish, on the high 
 road from Pitlessie to Leslie ; and is a village of com- 
 paratively recent growth. 
 
 HOLLEE, a village, in the parish of Kirkpatrick- 
 Fleming, county of Dumfries; containing 114 in- 
 habitants. 
 
 HOLM, anciently Ham, a parish, in the county of 
 Orkney, S miles (S. E. by E.) from Kirkwall ; containing, 
 ■with the island of Lambholm and the village of St. 
 Mary, 866 inhabitants. This parish, which is situated 
 on the south-eastern portion of the main land, is bounded 
 on the north by the parishes of Kirkwall and St. An- 
 drew's, on the east by the North Sea, on the west by 
 Scalpa Flow, and on the south by Holm Sound. It is 
 about six miles in length, and varies from one mile to 
 two miles in breadth. The coast is not very elevated : 
 the principal headlands are, Roseness, on the southern 
 extremity of Paplay, at the eastern entrance of the 
 sound ; Howquoy, at the western entrance ; and Skel- 
 daquoy Point, stretching out for a quarter of a mile 
 from the shore, and forming the western boundary of 
 Holm Sound bay. The sound, on the south side of 
 which is the small but picturesque island of Lambholm, 
 is an important passage from the eastern to the western 
 coasts, through which vessels pass with greater security, 
 and by a shorter line, than either by the Caledonian 
 canal or the Pentland Firth. It affords, also, safe an- 
 chorage for vessels which may have to wait for the tide. 
 The surface towards the south is low, but rises gradually 
 towards the north, terminating in a range of hills of suffi- 
 cient elevation to shelter the lands from the north winds. 
 It is intersected by numerous limpid streams. 
 
 The whole number of acres is 7610, of which 2850 
 are arable, 830 in con.stant pasture, and the remainder 
 undivided common. The soil is generally a light black 
 loam, in some places alternated with sand, in others 
 with clay ; and is well adapted for the cultivation of 
 turnips, which frequently attain a large growth, averag- 
 ing from twelve to fourteen pounds each in weight. The 
 chief crops are oats and bear, potatoes, turnips, and the 
 various kinds of grasses ; flax, also, was formerly culti- 
 vated with great success. Very considerable improve- 
 ments in agriculture have taken place under the auspices 
 of Alexander Sutherland Graeme, Esq., the principal, and 
 almost the sole, proprietor of the lands. The common 
 Orkney breed of cattle, formerly prevalent, has been im- 
 proved by the introduction of the Dunrobin, and also of 
 the Teeswater or short-horned breed ; and a powerful 
 stimulus has been given to the rearing of cattle, by the 
 563 
 
 facilities of steam navigation, which has opened new mar- 
 kets for the sale of produce. That district of the parish 
 called Paplay has been always remarkable for the fer- 
 tility of its soil, and the abundance of its crops : it is sup- 
 posed to have derived its appellation from having been 
 the property of some religious establishment. There is 
 nothing peculiar in the geological features of the parish. 
 Graeme's Hall, the seat of the ancient family of Graeme, 
 descendants of Graeme, Bishop of Orkney, is deserted. 
 
 When the parish was surveyed in 1828, the site of a 
 fishing-village was laid out on the shore of the harbour 
 of Holm Sound, with a view to encourage the settlement 
 of regular fishermen at this place, which, from the con- 
 venience of its harbour, and its proximity to the North 
 Sea, is peculiarly adapted to the purpose. The fish 
 to be found off the coast are cod, ling, haddock, halibut, 
 flounders, and skate. For the supply of his family, 
 almost every inhabitant has a share in a boat ; and 
 most of them are also adventurers in the herring fishery, 
 which commences in July, and ends in September ; but 
 there is no regular fishing establishment, the population 
 being generally agricultural, and none of the inhabitants 
 making fishing their exclusive occupation. Fairs for 
 cattle and horses are held quarterly. The grain raised 
 in the parish is sent to the distilleries in Kirkwall, for 
 which object, and for the conveyance of other produce, 
 facilities are afforded by steamers, which, since 1833, 
 have continued to ply here for eight months during the 
 year. Ecclesiastically the parish is within the limits of 
 the presbytery of Kirkwall, synod of Orkney. The minis- 
 ter's stipend is £157, of which more than one-third is 
 paid from the exchequer ; with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £4 per annum : patron, the Earl of Zetland. 
 Holm church, originally dedicated to St. Nicholas, and 
 rebuilt in 1818, is situated in Paplay, the eastern por- 
 tion of the parish, and affords sufficient accommodation 
 for the parishioners. There is a place of worship for 
 members of the United Presbyterian Church. The paro- 
 chial school is well attended ; the master has a salary 
 of £26, with a house and garden, and the fees average 
 about £5 per annum. Mr. Patrick Graeme, sheriff- depute 
 of the county in 1770, and proprietor of Graeme's Hall, 
 was a great benefactor to the parish ; he supplied the 
 inhabitants with linseed gratis, introduced the cultiva- 
 tion of flax, and taught the people the art of making it 
 into cloth, of which, for many years prior to his decease, 
 they exported 20,000 yards annually to the English mar- 
 kets. Admiral Alexander Graeme, who distinguished 
 himself in the action with the Dutch off the Dogger Bank, 
 in which he lost his right arm, though not resident, was 
 also a great benefactor to his tenants. 
 
 HOLMS (ISLES), in the county of Orkney. 
 " Holm " signifies a small island fit only for pasturage, 
 and is a name by which several islands of the Orkney 
 group are known, with, in most cases, a distinctive 
 affix referring to the name of that part of the coast oflF 
 which any Holm may be situated. Of these islands, one 
 simply called Holm is in the parish of Westray, and 
 lies on the east side of Papa- Westray. Holm of Grim- 
 bister, in the parish of Firth, is situated in a creek, off 
 the farm or shore of Grimbister in the same parish. 
 Holm of Houton, or the Holm off the Point of Houton, 
 belongs to Ophir parish, and is south of the main land, 
 in Scalpa Flow ; its scanty herbage feeds a few sheep. 
 Holm of Huip, in the parish of Stronsay, lies north of 
 
 4 C2
 
 HOLY 
 
 the island of Stronsay, and is appropriated to the pas- 
 turage of sheep and cattle : Huip is the name of a farm 
 upon the shore of Stronsay. Holm of Pharay, in the 
 parish of Eday, is situated in Westray Firth, and north- 
 west of Eday, and forms a northern point of Fersness 
 bay. All these isles are of very small extent, and unin- 
 habited. Holm of Midgarth, in the parish of St. Peter, 
 Stronsay, is also of moderate extent ; but it has two dwell- 
 ings, and six persons at present reside upon it. 
 
 HOLMS, The, isles, in the parish of Unst, county 
 of Shetland. These are three minute uninhabited isles, 
 ■which lie to the north-west of the island of Unst ; they 
 are nearly of the same size, and are the smallest of the 
 whole Shetland group. 
 
 HOLTON-SQUARE, a village, in the parish of 
 Alloa, county of Clackmannan ; containing 295 in- 
 habitants. It is a colliery-village, consisting of about 
 sixty dwellings, and appendant to the mines of the same 
 name. 
 
 HOLYTOWN, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in 
 the parish of Bothwell, Middle ward of the county of 
 Lanark, 11 miles (E. by S.) from Glasgow ; containing, 
 with the villages of Chapelhall and Newarthill, 8169 in- 
 habitants, of whom 900 are in the village of Holytown. 
 This district is situated in a part of the county abound- 
 ing with coal and ironstone, both of which are wrought 
 to a very great extent. The collieries comprise all the 
 various seams, and not less than from twenty to thirty 
 are in operation ; the ell coal, the nine feet, and the 
 splint coal are found in abundance in the mines of Cha- 
 pelhall. On the Woodhall estate, ironstone of good 
 quality, principally that called blackband, is plentiful ; 
 and it is wrought at Calderbraes, near the village of 
 Holytown, and at Greenside, near Newhouse. The 
 Monkland Iron and Steel Company have extensive works 
 near Chapelhall, in which are three blast-furnaces, 
 making together about 1440 tons of pig-iron monthly, 
 and six others producing 2880 tons : in the same esta- 
 blishment are mills and forges in which 400 tons of 
 malleable iron are manufactured weekly. Some works 
 at Cairnbroe, also, belonging to a firm, contain six 
 blast-furnaces, yielding 600 tons of iron per week ; and 
 two more furnaces are in contemplation. About one 
 hundred tons of steel are made by the Monkland Com- 
 pany annually, of which thirty tons are wrought into 
 files ; and about sixty tons of scrap iron per month are col- 
 lected by them, and manufactured into engines for steam- 
 boats and other purposes. In the company's works more 
 than '2400 persons, including miners, are constantly em- 
 ployed ; and the average annual amount of the produce 
 of the various iron-works in the district is estimated at 
 £676,000. 
 
 Among the principal mansions are, Woodhall, an 
 ancient house in good preservation ; Cleland House, a 
 handsome modern mansion, beautifully situated on the 
 South Calder ; Carfin and Jerviston, both on the banks 
 of the same river ; Lauchope House, an elegant mansion 
 recently erected, and tastefully embellished ; and Car- 
 danoch, a beautiful house in the Elizabethan style. The 
 village stands on the great road from Edinburgh to 
 Glasgow, and the district is intersected by the Cale- 
 donian railway, by the roads from Stirling to Carlisle, 
 and from Edinburgh to Ayr and Hamilton, and by the 
 Monkland canal. It is inhabited chiefly by persons em- 
 ployed in the collieries and iron-works. The post has a 
 564 
 
 HOLY 
 
 good delivery. The quoad sacra parish of Holytown was 
 about four miles in length, and of nearly equal breadth, 
 comprising an area of 12,000 acres, of which one-half 
 are arable, and of the remainder about one-third wood- 
 land and plantations and two-thirds meadow and pas- 
 ture. The soil is a cold and tenacious clay, difficult to 
 work, but, from the improved state of husbandry, pro- 
 ducing favourable crops, though not more than sufficient 
 for the supply of the population. Ecclesiastically Holy- 
 town is within the bounds of the presbytery of Hamilton, 
 synod of Glasgow and Ayr. A preaching station was 
 for some time established in the district, which, within 
 the last few years, was replaced by the erection of a 
 handsome church, containing 830 sittings ; the minister 
 derives his stipend, £80, from the seat-rents and collec- 
 tions, and has a commodious and comfortable manse. 
 This church is under the patronage of the male com- 
 municants. There is also a place of worship for the 
 United Presbyterian Synod. District parochial schools 
 are supported by small endowments, in addition to the 
 fees ; five schools are maintained by the parties connected 
 with the several works, in which more than 1000 children 
 receive instruction ; and three more are about to be 
 erected by subscription. There are also eight Sabbath 
 schools ; and to those of Holytown, Newarthill, Chapel- 
 hall, and Cairnbroe, libraries are attached. 
 
 HOLYWOOD, a parish, in the county of Dumfries, 
 3 miles (N. N. W.) from Dumfries ; containing 1061 
 inhabitants, of whom 81 are in the village. It is un- 
 certain when the present name was first applied to the 
 parish ; but the oak forest that once overspread the 
 ground, and the Druidical temples situated here, leave 
 no doubt as to its origin. The wood, or forest, ex- 
 tended, it is supposed, for about eight miles, reaching to 
 Suaid, in the parish of Glencairu ; and as it must have 
 been well known by the early Christian missionaries to 
 have been a retreat of the Druids, some of whose temples 
 are still to be seen in the vicinity, the memory of its 
 primitive consecration was probably transmitted by them, 
 under the name of Holywood. The ancient abbey of 
 Holywood, which stood in the south-east corner of the 
 present burying-ground, was founded by Dervorgilla, or 
 Donagilla, daughter of Allan, lord of Galloway, who died 
 in 1269: she was the mother of John Baliol, declared 
 king of the Scots by Edward I., in 1292. It was called 
 Monasterium sacri nemoris, on account of its situation in 
 a grove of oaks ; and its monks were of the Praemon- 
 stratensian order : among them is said to have been 
 Johannes de Sacro Bosco, a great mathematician, and 
 author of the book De Spbara. This monastery, like that 
 of Whithorn, is supposed to have sprung from the re- 
 ligious institution of Souls-seat, near Stranraer, founded 
 by Fergus, lord of Galloway, early in the twelfth century. 
 The remains of the abbey, the roof of which was sup- 
 ported by a fine pointed arch across the middle of the 
 building, were taken down in 1/78, and the materials 
 used for the erection of the present parish church. Two 
 bells belonging to the edifice viere, however, preserved ; 
 they are of excellent tone, and are now the parish bells. 
 The patronage of Holywood formerly belonged to the 
 Earls of Nithsdale, one of whom sold it in 1714 to 
 Alexander Ferguson of Isle in Kirkmahoe, whose son, 
 Robert, disposed of it to Robert Ferguson of Fourmerk- 
 land in this parish, after which it passed through several 
 hands, and was purchased in 1823 by the late John 
 
 
 I 
 I
 
 HOLY 
 
 HORN 
 
 Crichton, Esq., of Skcoch. Cowhill, in the parish, was 
 long the seat of the Maxwells, cadets of the noble family 
 of Nithsdale. In the year 1560, the old castle at Cow- 
 hill was burnt by the English ; and a tower, in lieu, was 
 built in 1579; but being obtained by purchase, in 1783, 
 by G. Johnstone, Esq., a Liverpool merchant, he pulled 
 the building down in order to erect an elegant mansion 
 on its site. 
 
 The PARISH is about ten miles long, and its mean 
 breadth is one mile and a half ; containing 8960 acres. 
 It is situated in the most beautiful part of Nithsdale, and 
 is bounded on the north-east by the parish of Kirk- 
 mahoe ; on the east by the parish of Dumfries ; on the 
 south by the parishes of Terregles, Irnngray, and Kirk- 
 patrick-Durham, in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright ; and 
 on the west and north by the parishes of Glencairu and 
 Dunscore. Being in a broad valley, the surface is flat 
 and low, with the exception of one range of hills, which, 
 however, is neither abrupt nor of great height. The 
 lauds are watered by the Nith and the Cluden, the latter 
 of which is a famous trout-stream. The soil in the 
 vicinity of these rivers is for the most part a rich alluvial 
 mould free from stones. Adjacent to this the earth is 
 lighter, and rests upon fine sand or gravel. There is also 
 a deep strong loam, incumbent upon a tilly subsoil ; and 
 although this in its natural state is not so fertile as the 
 former kinds, yet when drained, limed, and properly 
 tilled, it becomes very productive, except in cold and 
 wet seasons. The hilly ground is of the same character, 
 but less deep ; it is covered with an ordinary kind of 
 grass, mi.xed with heath and harsh weeds. The parish 
 comprises 7500 acres under tillage, 560 in wood, 360 
 moss, 300 hill land, 1'20 meadow, and 120 occupied by 
 roads. Both white and green crops of all kinds are 
 produced, and the system of husbandry followed is of 
 the first description. Fine crops of turnips are raised 
 by the liberal and judicious application of bone-dust 
 manure, and are eaten off the ground by the sheep. The 
 cattle are mostly the black Galloways, with cows for the 
 dairy of the Ayrshire breed : the hilly tracts are occupied 
 by the native Scotch sheep ; but the English breed is 
 preferred on the lower grounds, from the superior quality 
 of the wool. Extensive improvements have been carried 
 on for a considerable time in the different branches of 
 husbandry, comprising subdivisions of land, good drain- 
 age, the repairing and enlarging of farm-houses, &c. : 
 indeed, the rental of the parish has been considerably 
 more than doubled since the year 1790, the annual value 
 of real property in Holywood now amounting to £7437. 
 The upper or hilly part of the parish contains greywacke; 
 in the midland district there are strata of hard red 
 freestone and of limestone. Boulders, also, of large and 
 small grained greywacke, conglomerate, and trap, with 
 boulders of granite and sienite, are to be seen. There 
 are two small villages, viz., Holywood and Cluden. The 
 facihties of communication are unusually great, about 
 thirty miles of road being distributed in different direc- 
 tions throughout the parish, all of which are in excellent 
 condition for travelling : the turnpike-road from Glasgow 
 to Dumfries and Carlisle is the principal of the roads. 
 The Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle railway also inter- 
 sects the parish. At Cluden are some extensive mills, 
 which are let on lease to the Company of Bakers at 
 Dumfries: about 16,000 bushels of wheat; 12,000 of 
 oats; of barley shelled, 1000; and of barley for flour, 
 565 
 
 between 400 and 500 bushels, are produced at the mills 
 every year. About a mile higher up the Cluden is 
 another mill, in which barley is ground, flax prepared, 
 and wool carded. Wool is also spun by machinery, on 
 a small scale, at Speddoch. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 limits of the presbytery and synod of Dumfries ; patron, 
 James Otto, Esq., of Skeoch. The stipend of the minister 
 is about £200 ; and there is a good manse, with seven 
 acres of arable land, valued at £10. 10. per annum. 
 Holywood church was built in 1773, and thoroughly re- 
 paired in 1821. It is a neat building with a square 
 tower, and well adapted for the purpose of accommoda- 
 tion, but inconveniently situated, being eight miles dis- 
 tant from a part of the population : the edifice contains 
 600 sittings. There are three parochial schools, in which 
 all the usual branches of education are taught. The 
 master of the first school has a salary of £26 ; the 
 second master has £15, and the third £10. The total 
 income of the first master is about £60 ; that of the 
 second and third, between £25 and £30 each. There is 
 also a subscription library, established about fifty years 
 ago, the volumes in which are chiefly theological. About 
 a quarter of a mile south-west from the church, are 
 eleven large stones, placed in an oval form : the number 
 was twelve till within these few years. They have been 
 universally ascribed to the Druids ; and the massy size 
 of the stones, the largest of which weighs twelve tons, 
 excites the astonishment of all visiters. Mr. Charles 
 Irvine, who in 1790 discovered the method of rendering 
 salt water fresh, for which he was rewarded by govern- 
 ment with a grant of £5000, was connected with the 
 parish. 
 
 HOPEMAN, a village, in the parish of Duffus, 
 county of Elgin, 2^ miles (E. N. E.) from Burgh-Head ; 
 containing 588 inhabitants. This village, also called 
 Hopeman Harbour, is situated on the shore of the 
 Moray Firth, and between the ports of Burgh-Head and 
 Lossiemouth. It is of some little importance as the seat 
 of a considerable fishery, but though regularly built, has 
 not been remarkable hitherto for a cleanly appearance. 
 In 1840 a new and excellent harbour was completed 
 here, having seventeen and a half feet of water at spring 
 tides, and five feet at low water, with an easy entrance 
 of thirty-six feet, at right angles to the coast, leading 
 from the outer to the inner harbour, the whole per- 
 fectly sheltered. Salmon, herrings, and white-fish are 
 taken off this part of the coast. In the village is a 
 small school. 
 
 HORDA, an isle, in the parish of Burray, county of 
 Orkney. It is one of the 'smaller isles, lying in the 
 Pentland Firth, between South Ronaldshay and Swinna ; 
 and is about a mile in length and half a mile in breadth, 
 affording pasturage to cattle and sheep. 
 
 HORISDALE, an island, in the parish of Gair- 
 LOCH, county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 27 
 inhabitants. 
 
 HORNDEAN, a village, in the parish of Ladykirk, 
 county of Berwick, 7 miles (W. S. W.) from Berwick ; 
 containing 124 inhabitants. This place consists chiefly 
 of the Kirktown of the ancient parish of Horndean, 
 which was annexed at the Reformation to the parish of 
 Ladykirk. It is pleasantly situated on a gentle acclivity 
 rising from the banks of the river Tweed, and is inha- 
 bited by persons employed in the various handicraft
 
 HO U N 
 
 H O U N 
 
 trades carried on for the supply of the neighbourhood ; 
 in the salmon-fishery ; and in agriculture. 
 
 HOSPITAL-MILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Cults, 
 district of Cupar, county of Fife ; containing 46 inha- 
 bitants. It consists of a small group of houses, and of 
 a mill, formerly a corn and flax mill, and now a tow 
 mill, in which are annually spun nearly 200 tons of tow, 
 for which Dundee is the principal market. 
 
 HOUNAM, a parish, in the district of Kelso, county 
 of Roxburgh, 11 miles (S. S. E.) from Kelso; contain- 
 ing 280 inhabitants, of whom about 45 are in the village, 
 and the remainder in the rural districts of the parish. 
 This place, the name of which is of doubtful origin, is 
 not distinguished by any events of historical importance, 
 though, from its situation on the confines of England, 
 and the remains of numerous forts, it probably partici- 
 pated in the frequent hostilities of the border warfare. 
 It measures about eight miles in length and six in mean 
 breadth, and is bounded on the south-east by the Eng- 
 lish county of Northumberland. The surface is almost 
 one continued series of hills, forming part of the Cheviot 
 range, and is diversified with gentle undulations in some 
 parts, and in others with small valleys and narrow glens 
 intervening between the bolder hills. Through these 
 valleys the waters of the Kale and Capehope wind for 
 several miles, along the banks of which are some small 
 tracts of level laud. The highest of the hills is Hounara 
 Law, which has an elevation of 1464 feet above the level 
 of the sea ; it is of conical form, easy of ascent, and is 
 about nine miles in circumference at the base. The 
 lower hills vary from 900 to between 1200 and 1300 
 feet. The Kale water has its source in the hills in the 
 parish of Oxnam, and taking a northern course, divides 
 the parish into two nearly equal parts, and after a very 
 circuitous progress, unites with the Capehope at the 
 village, a little to the west of which it forms a picturesque 
 cascade, falling from a rocky precipice. These, and va- 
 rious smaller streams which flow through the parish, 
 abound with excellent trout. There are also numerous 
 springs of excellent water, and one of medicinal proper- 
 ties westward of the village, which is in some repute as 
 a gentle diuretic. 
 
 In this parish the soil varies greatly in different 
 parts, but is notwithstanding tolerably fertile, and in 
 the valleys and lower grounds extremely rich ; in the 
 higher lands it is a sandy gravel, and in some places 
 moss and heath. The whole number of acres is esti- 
 mated at 14,458 ; of these, about 13,540 are hilly pas- 
 ture and sheep-walks, 816 acres arable, and 102 in wood 
 and plantations. The crops are oats, barley, potatoes, 
 and turnips : the system of' agriculture is advanced ; the 
 lands have been drained, and considerable portions of 
 waste reclaimed. The farm-houses, most of which have 
 been rebuilt, are substantial and commodiously arranged ; 
 those of modern erection are of stone, and roofed with 
 slate. All the more recent improvements in agricultural 
 implements have been generally adopted. The number 
 of sheep fed on the pastures is about 13,000. They 
 are principally of the Cheviot breed, to the improve- 
 ment of which much attention is paid ; those on the 
 lower pastures are of a mixed breed between the Cheviot 
 and the Leicestershire. Above 1600 stones of wool are 
 annually produced for sale. About seventy cows are 
 kept in the parish, and 120 head of young cattle : a few- 
 horses are reared for agricultural purposes. The an- 
 566 
 
 nual value of real property in the parish is £5171. 
 Wood formerly abounded in some parts, and there are 
 still scattered remains of ancient forests ; but the woods 
 have been nearly all cut down, and very few trees, if any, 
 have been planted in their place. The plantations are 
 chiefly of recent formation : those of Chester House 
 have attained considerable growth ; and the younger 
 plantations at Greenhill, and in the vicinity of the village, 
 are in a thriving state, and, when mature, will add 
 greatly to the beauty of the scenery. There are also 
 some well-grown trees in the hedge-rows, including oak, 
 ash, elm, and beech ; and birch, hazel, alder, and moun- 
 tain-ash appear to be indigenous to the soil. The plan- 
 tations are mostly plane, Scotch fir, and larch. In this 
 district the rocks are principally of porphyry formation, 
 and in the cavities are found grey amethyst, rock-crystal, 
 calcareous spar, quartz, agates, and jasper ; the two last 
 afford some very beautiful specimens. The substrata in 
 the lower parts are chiefly clay, gravel, and sand. Green- 
 hill, a seat of the Duke of Roxburghe's, is a handsome 
 and spacious mansion, beautifully situated in grounds 
 tastefully laid out, and embellished with shrubberies and 
 ornamental plantations. 
 
 The village, which is of considerable antiquity, is 
 pleasingly seated on the eastern bank of the Kale water, 
 and at the base of a gently rising ground, which gradu- 
 ally terminates in a hill of considerable height. It con- 
 sists of a substantial inn, and a few dwelling-houses, 
 each of two stories, and all lately rebuilt. Almost ad- 
 joining it, is a neat range of houses which may be re- 
 garded as a continuation of the hamlet. Fairs are held 
 on the Oxnam side of the parish, on the 31st July 
 and 15th October, for lambs and ewes, and they are 
 well attended. Facility of intercourse with the market- 
 towns is afforded by various good roads that pass 
 through the parish, and by handsome and substantial 
 bridges lately erected over the different streams, and all 
 of which are kept in excellent repair. For ecclesias- 
 tical purposes the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Jedburgh, synod of Merse and Teviotdale : 
 patron. Sir George Warrender, Bart. The stipend of 
 the incumbent is about £206 ; the manse, erected in 
 1776, and enlarged and repaired in 1832, is a tolerably 
 comfortable residence, and the glebe comprises about 
 nine acres, valued at £11 per annum. Hounam church 
 is very ancient, and was formerly a cruciform structure ; 
 but it has been curtailed in its proportions, and is at 
 present a plain rectangular building, adapted for a con- 
 gregation of not more than 200 persons. The parochial 
 school affords education to about thirty children ; the 
 master has a salary of £34, with a house and garden, 
 and the fees average £11. There are traces of ancient 
 camps in various parts : the Roman road called the 
 "Street" passes through the parish; and on some 
 rising ground near the village, overlooking the Kale 
 water, are the remains of an old fort, which has given 
 the name of Chester House to the lands on which it is 
 situated. On Hounam-Mains farm are distinct traces 
 of a very extensive circular intrenchment called the 
 Rings ; likewise part of a circle of upright stones, sup- 
 posed to be Druidical ; and in several parts of the parish 
 are similar stones, of large dimensions, in detached situ- 
 ations. There are also some cairns, which are thought 
 to have been raised over the tombs of warriors killed in 
 battle.
 
 HOUS 
 
 HO US 
 
 HOUNDWOOD, for a time a quoad sacra parish, in 
 the parish of Coldingham, county of Berwick, 6 miles 
 (w. N. W.) from Ayton ; containing, with the villages of 
 Auchincraw and Reston, 1334 inhabitants. This district, 
 which is situated in the southern portion of Coldingham, 
 comprised about 12,000 acres, of which 8500 are arable, 
 300 woodland and plantations, and the remainder mea- 
 dow, pasture, and waste. Its surface is diversified with 
 hills, the highest of which, Wardlaw Bank, has an ele- 
 vation of 640 feet above the level of the sea, commanding 
 from its summit a splendid view to the east, south, and 
 west, embracing the German Ocean, the Merse, part of 
 Roxburghshire, the heights of Lammermoor, and the 
 Cheviot hills in the distance. The lands are watered 
 by the small river Eye, which flows for nearly eight 
 miles through the district, and falls into the sea at 
 Eyemouth : common trout of excellent quality are found 
 in abundance. The soil is tolerably fertile, and the 
 arable grounds are in good cultivation, producing favour- 
 able crops ; the system of husbandry is improved ; the 
 lands have been drained and inclosed, and the farm 
 houses and offices are substantial and commodious. 
 The plantations are chiefly oak, elm, birch, and fir ; 
 they are under good management, and generally in a 
 thriving state. Renton House, the seat of Sir Samuel 
 Stirling, Bart., and Houndwood House, the property 
 and residence of Mrs. Coulson, are the principal man- 
 sions. In the village of Reston is a small manufactory 
 for woollen cloths of the coarser kind ; but the popula- 
 tion of the district is mostly agricultural. The cattle and 
 sheep bred in the pastures are sent to Ayton, Dunse, 
 and Morpeth ; and other agricultural produce chiefly to 
 Dunbar, Eyemouth, and Berwick. The North-British 
 railway passes through the district from south-east to 
 north-west : at Reston the Dunse branch quits the line. 
 Ecclesiastically Houndwood is within the limits of the 
 presbytery of Chirnside, synod of Merse and Teviotdale, 
 and the patronage is vested in the male communicants : 
 the stipend of the minister is £8", arising from seat-rents 
 and collections ; with a manse. A chapel which was 
 erected on the lands of Renton, in 1794, by the Renton 
 family, and in which divine service was performed by a 
 minister of their endowment, has been closed since the 
 opening of the present church in 1836. The church is a 
 handsome structure in the Grecian style of architecture, 
 and contains 500 sittings : it was built by subscription, 
 at a cost of £800, towards which £167. 10. were contri- 
 buted from the General Assembly's funds. Renton cha- 
 pel is still in good repair. There are a parochial school, 
 and a school supported by subscription. Formerly nu- 
 merous remains existed of strongholds, of which that of 
 Houndwood was the hunting-seat of the prior of Cold- 
 ingham : in this ancient residence, a small apartment is 
 pointed out as the place where Queen Mary rested in 
 1566, on her Berwickshire tour. 
 
 HOUSTON and KILLALLAN, a parish, in the 
 Upper ward of the county of Renfrew ; including the 
 village of Crosslee and part of the late quoad sacra dis- 
 trict of Bridge-of-Weir, and containing '2818 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom 623 are in the village of Houston, 14 
 miles (S. W.) from Glasgow. This place consists of 
 two parishes which were united in the year 1760, when 
 the population of both of them was scarcely more than 
 one-third of the present number. The principal resi- 
 dent proprietor is W. M. Fleming, Esq., whose ancestor, 
 567 
 
 Peter Fleming, held the estate of Barochan, in this 
 parish, and being celebrated for his skill in falconry, 
 received from James IV. the hood of his favourite hawk, 
 richly studded with gems, as a reward for his dexterity : 
 this hood, though many of the jewels have been lost, 
 and among them a ruby of great value, is still preserved 
 in the house at Barochan, the residence of his descend- 
 ant. Houston parish is supposed to have derived its 
 name from Hugo de Padvinan, who obtained a grant of 
 the barony of Kelpeter from Baldwin, sheriff of Lanark, 
 and who substituted his own name for that by which the 
 barony had been previously called. The name of the 
 other parish is thought to be a corruption of Killfillan, 
 an appellation said to have been obtained from Fillanus, 
 its tutelary saint. 
 
 The united parish is about six miles in length and 
 three in breadth. It is bounded on the north and east 
 by the parish of Erskine ; on the south by the river 
 Gryfe, which separates it from the parish of Kilbar- 
 chan ; and on the west by the parish of Kilmalcolm. 
 The river Gryfe has its source in the upland moors and 
 high hills between Kilmalcolm and Largs, the latter 
 place situated on the coast of the Firth of Clyde ; and, 
 augmented by numerous streams that meet near Duchal, 
 it enters the parish, and pursues a rapid course towards 
 the low lands at Fulwood, in its progress to which it is 
 precipitated over several rocky heights. Thence it winds 
 its way into the Clyde, first receiving the river Black Cart 
 at Walkinshaw, and the White Cart near the bridge of 
 Inchinnan. The surface is irregular, and in many parts 
 beautifully diversified. In the lands of Houston is an 
 extensive wood, consisting chiefly of oak, ash, birch, 
 and plane trees, many of which are of venerable growth : 
 there is a similar wood of natural growth, with exten- 
 sive and thriving plantations, at Barochan. The high 
 grounds in the district of Killallan, likewise, are largely 
 planted with oak, ash, beech, and Scotch fir ; and the 
 mosses have been covered with trees which appear to 
 be thriving well. Agriculture forms but a secondary 
 pursuit in the parish, and comparatively only a small 
 portion of land is in cultivation ; the greater number of 
 the inhabitants being employed in the various manu- 
 factures that have been established. Improvements 
 have been made in draining the grounds, and many of 
 the mosses have been reclaimed, and produce abundant 
 crops ; the farm-buildings are substantial and commo- 
 dious, and are all roofed with slate. The scarcity of 
 common manure has led to the introduction of a com- 
 post of moss prepared with oil, which, under proper 
 management, has been found to answer well. The sub- 
 stratum is chiefly clay, covered in some parts with moss 
 six feet in depth. In the higher districts, granite of 
 good quality is prevalent ; and in the lower parts, 
 sandstone and limestone are quarried. Coal exists in 
 abundance, and mines have been opened for the supply 
 of the extensive works in the parish, and for fuel in the 
 neighbouring places. Barochan, the patrimonial seat 
 of Mr. Fleming, is of considerable antiquity, and has 
 recently undergone great improvements ; it is beauti- 
 fully situated, and embellished with ornamental planta- 
 tions, forming a conspicuous feature in the landscape. 
 A subscription library has been established in the village 
 of Houston. Fairs are held in May, chiefly for milch- 
 cows, young cattle, &c., of the Highland breed. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £11,293.
 
 HOWI 
 
 The chief manufacture is that of cotton, for which 
 several extensive mills have been erected, mostly on the 
 banks of the river Gryfe. Among these are the New 
 mills, near Bridge-of-Weir, in the district of Killallan, 
 erected in 1792, and at present conducted by Messrs. 
 Findlay : they contain 6240 mule spindles ; are driven 
 by a water-wheel thirteen feet in diameter, with power 
 equal to that of twelve horses ; and afford employ- 
 ment to nearly 100 persons. The mill at Gryfe grove, 
 erected in 1822, contains nearly 1000 mule spindles, 
 and .600 for water-twist, with the requisite machinery, 
 set in motion by a cast-iron water-wheel of twelve feet 
 diameter, and giving occupation to about forty per- 
 sons : adjoining is a mill erected by the same proprie- 
 tor, for carding wool. A mill has also been erected by 
 Mr. Shanks, in which are 1400 spindles, driven likewise 
 by an iron water-wheel twelve feet in diameter. Gryfe 
 mill, to the east of the Bridge-of-Weir mill, and belong- 
 ing to Messrs. John Freeland and Co., was built in 1793, 
 and contains 18,000 spindles ; it is set in motion by a 
 water-wheel nineteen feet in diameter, and employs 
 nearly 300 persons. Crosslee mill, conducted by Messrs. 
 Stevenson and Sons, is driven by a wheel of cast-iron, 
 twenty-six feet in diameter, and equivalent to seventy- 
 horse power ; it affords constant employment to 300 
 people. Houston cotton-mills, situated on the burn of 
 that name, and built in 1793, is driven by a wheel of 
 eighteen-horse power, about thirty feet in diameter, 
 and employs 140 persons ; attached to this mill is a 
 steam-engine, by which the machinery is set in motion 
 when the water of the stream is insufficient for that 
 purpose. Houston bleachfield, on the same rivulet, 
 belonging to Messrs. Carlisle, is an extensive establish- 
 ment, chiefly employed for the manufacturers of Glas- 
 gow and Paisley : about 4000 pounds of cotton-yarn, 
 60,000 pounds of linen yarn and thread, and 12,000 
 pounds of raw silk, are annually bleached in this esta- 
 blishment, in which fifty persons are engaged. The 
 Glasgow, Paisley, and Greenock railway, opened through- 
 out in 1841, skirts the eastern extremity of the parish, 
 where a station is fixed. Ecclesiastically the parish is 
 in the presbytery of Paisley, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, 
 and in the patronage of Alexander Spiers, Esq. The 
 minister's stipend is £264, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £13. 10. per annum. Houston and Killallan 
 church, erected in 1775, is conveniently situated; it is 
 in good repair, and is adapted for a congregation of 800 
 persons. The members of the Free Church have a place 
 of worship, and there is a Roman Catholic chapel. The 
 parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £34, with £24 fees, 
 and a house and garden. 
 
 HOWGATE, a hamlet, in the parish of Penicdick, 
 county of Edinburgh, 2 miles (S. S. E.) from Penicuick; 
 containing 81 inhabitants. It lies near the high road 
 from Edinburgh to Dumfries ; and in its neighbourhood 
 are several fine streams, some of which are tributaries 
 to the Esk. The village is but a short distance from 
 the boundary of Peeblesshire. A Secession meeting- 
 house was built here in 1750. 
 
 HOWIESHILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Cambus- 
 LANG, Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 2i miles 
 (S. E. by E.) from Rutherglen ; containing 62 inhabit- 
 ants. It is situated on the road leading from Ruther- 
 glen to Hamilton, and is one of numerous hamlets in the 
 parish. 
 
 56S 
 
 HOY 
 
 HOWWOOD, a village, in the parish of Lochwin- 
 NOCH, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 2| miles 
 (S. W.) from Johnstone ; containing 252 inhabitants. 
 It is seated in the north-eastern part of the parish, and 
 on the road from Lochwinnoch to Johnstone, which 
 runs nearly parallel with the Ardrossan and Johnstone 
 canal. The village is neatly built, though ot small 
 extent, and consists principally of detached houses and 
 cottages inhabited by persons engaged in cotton-mills 
 and in agriculture. A school has been established, the 
 master of which has a good house and garden rent-free, 
 and occasionally a donation raised by voluntary contri- 
 bution of the inhabitants : his principal income arises 
 from the fees. A friendly society, also, has long been 
 formed, and has acquired ample funds. 
 
 HOY, an island, in the county of Orkney ; contain- 
 ing 1486 inhabitants, of whom 1153 are in the parish 
 of Walls and Flotta, and the remainder in that of Hoy 
 and Grremsay. See the articles on those two parishes. 
 
 HOY and GRREMSAY, a parish, in the county of 
 Orkney, 2| miles (S.) from Stromness; containing 547 
 inhabitants, of whom 214 are in the small island of 
 GrcEmsay. This parish is chiefly situated in the island 
 of Hoy, the principal of the South Orkney isles. It 
 is bounded on the north by the Sound of Hoy, which 
 separates it from the parish of Stromness, in the main 
 land ; on the east, by the bay of Scalpa, in which is the 
 small island of Grteinsay ; on the south and south-east, 
 by the parish of Walls ; and on the west, by the Atlan- 
 tic Ocean. The district of Hoy, or that part of the 
 parish which is in the isle of Hoy, is about nine miles 
 in extreme length, and six miles in breadth. Its surface 
 is boldly elevated, forming the highest ground in the 
 island, and the lands are chiefly marked by three lofty 
 hills, ranged in triangular form, of which that to the 
 north-east rises from a broad base to a height of 1200 
 feet above the level of the sea. The soil along the shore 
 is a rich loam, and in other parts peat, alternated with 
 clay. The greater portion of the district is covered 
 with heath, affording pasture to many flocks of sheep 
 which roam at large : in the husbandry of what is arable 
 very little improvement has been made. For want of 
 timber, the scenery has a dreary aspect, relieved however 
 in some parts by small valleys, intersecting the hills, and 
 watered by numerous rivulets, whose banks are orna- 
 mented with a few shrubs and wild-flowers. The hills 
 abound with Alpine plants ; and there are several deep 
 glens, in which the sound of the voice, or the report of a 
 musket, is re-echoed by repeated reverberations. A 
 rock on the brink of a valley, called the Dwarfie-stone, 
 has been excavated into three distinct apartments ; in 
 one of these is something resembling a bed, and between 
 this and a smaller apartment is a recess apparently in- 
 tended as a fire-place, with a hole cut in the roof to emit 
 the smoke. The whole mass is of sandstone, about 
 thirty-two feet in length, seventeen feet in breadth, and 
 seven feet and a half in height. Veins of iron and lead 
 ore have been discovered ; and the latter ore, on analysis, 
 was found to contain a considerable proportion of silver : 
 some grains of gold have also been met with. The island 
 of Grremsay, which is separated from the rest of the 
 parish by a sound about a mile in breadth, is a beautiftil 
 spot, a mile and a half in length and a mile broad. Its 
 surface is level, and covered with verdure affording lux- 
 uriant pasturage j the soil is fertile, and that portion of 
 
 I
 
 HUNT 
 
 HUNT 
 
 the land which is arable produces rich crops of grain : 
 the substratum throughout is clay-slate, which is wrought 
 for roofing. Cod, ling, and other fish are found in abun- 
 dance otF the coast of the parish ; and seven boats be- 
 longing to the parish are regularly employed in the her- 
 ring-fishery, during the season. 
 
 Ecclesiastically Hoy and Grcemsay are within the limits 
 of the presbytery of Cairston, synod of Orkney. The 
 minister's stipend is £150, to which are added £8. 6. 8. 
 for communion elements ; with a manse, and a glebe va- 
 lued at £8 per annum : patron, the Earl of Zetland. 
 There are two churches, both in good repair, the church 
 of Hoy built towards the close of the last century, and 
 that of Grserasay thoroughly repaired about the year 
 1810 ; they contain each 182 sittings. Divine service 
 is performed every third Sunday at Graemsay, and on 
 the two other Sundays at Hoy. The parochial school is 
 well attended ; the master has a salary of £'26, with a 
 house and garden, and the fees are about £2 per annum. 
 A school in Graemsay is supported by the Society for 
 Propagating Christian Knowledge. Among the preci- 
 pices on the coast is a massive lofty insulated pillar 
 which, from a fancied resemblance, is called the " Old 
 Man of Hoy "; it is conspicuously seen from the Caith- 
 ness coast. 
 
 HULMITRAY, an isle, in the parish of Harris, 
 county of Inverness. This is one of the smaller isles 
 of the Hebrides, and is situated in the Sound of Harris, 
 north-eastward of the island of North Uist. 
 
 HUMBIE. — See Keith and Humbie. 
 
 HUME. — See Stitchell and Hume. 
 
 HUNA, a township, in the parish of Canisbay, county 
 of Caitbness, 1 9 miles (N.) from Wick ; containing 1 1 1 
 inhabitants. This place is situated on the shore of the 
 Pentland Firth. It consists, in its western part, from 
 Huna Inn to Gill's bay, of one of the most fertile dis- 
 tricts in the parish ; and, eastward to Duncansbay burn, 
 of moss, which prevails to the very brink of the sea. 
 The parochial church stands on an eminence close by 
 the shore, and the manse is built about a quarter of a 
 mile, inland, from it : the tall white spire of the former 
 is an excellent landmark at sea. Here is a post-office, 
 from which the mail-boat with the Orkney bags crosses 
 the Firth three times a week, the distance to the landing- 
 place in Orkney being about twelve miles. Edwin, King 
 of Scotland, fought an army of Orkneymen at Huna, and 
 signally defeated them. 
 
 HUNDA, an island, in theparishof St.Peter in South 
 RoNALDSHAY, South islcs of Orkney ; Containing 6 in- 
 habitants. It lies in Scalpa Flow, to the north of Ro- 
 naldshay, and west of the isle of Burray ; and is of small 
 extent. 
 
 HUNIE, a very small islet, in the parish of Unst, 
 county of Shetland ; lying on the east side of the isle 
 of Unst, and a short distance i'rom Balta. 
 
 HUNTERFIELD, a small village, situated in the 
 parish of Cockpen, and county of Edinburgh ; contain- 
 ing 90 inhabitants. 
 
 HUNTHILL, a hamlet, in the parish of Blantyre, 
 Middle ward of the county of Lanark, 3| miles (W. N. 
 W.) from Hamilton 5 containing 60 inhabitants. It is 
 situated on the western borders of the parish, and nearly 
 adjoins the village of Blantyre, in the manufactures and 
 works connected with which the population is partly en- 
 gaged. 
 
 Vol. I.— .569 
 
 HUNTLY, a burgh of barony and a parish, in the 
 district of Strathbogie, county of Aberdeen, 39 miles 
 (N. \V.) from Aberdeen, and 14.5 (N. by E.) from Edin- 
 burgh ; containing 364'2 inhabitants, of whom '2731 are 
 in the burgh. This parish, consisting of the united pa- 
 rishes of Dumbennan and Kinoir, anciently formed part 
 of the ample possessions of the powerful family of Cumyn, 
 of whose baronial seat, Strathbogie Castle, there are still 
 considerable remains. During the contested succession 
 to the throne of Scotland after the death of Alexander 
 HI., the Cumyns, who were adherents of Edward I. of 
 England, were nearly extirpated by the Gordons, upon 
 whom Robert Bruce conferred the castle and lands of 
 Strathbogie, in reward of their important services. The 
 castle was almost destroyed after the battle of Glenlivet, 
 in 1594, but was restored, with considerable additions, 
 by the first Marquess of Huntly, in 1602, and, under the 
 name of Huntly Castle, was the seat of the head of the 
 Gordon family till their removal to Fochabers, when 
 this place became the residence of the Marquess of 
 Huntly, eldest son of the Duke of Gordon. On the death 
 of George, the fifth duke, in the year 1836, without 
 issue, the dukedom of Gordon became extinct ; while 
 the niarquessate of Huntly, his second title, descended 
 to his kinsman, the Earl of Aboyne. The duke's heir of 
 entail, the Duke of Richmond, is, with the exception only 
 of the estate of Avochy, the present proprietor of all the 
 lands. 
 
 The TOWN derives its name from its founders, the 
 family of Gordon. It is beautifully situated on a penin- 
 sula, near the confluence of the rivers Doveron and 
 Bogie, over the former of which is an ancient bridge of 
 one spacious arch, and over the latter a substantial 
 bridge of three arches. The streets are regularly formed, 
 intersecting each other at right angles ; and in the centre 
 is a noble square, surrounded with handsome houses, 
 some of which are of very elegant appearance. Huntly 
 is well paved, and lighted with gas; and the inhabitants 
 are amply supplied with water. There are several libra- 
 ries, the chief of which are, the Farmers' Agricultural 
 Library, an evangelical subscription library, and a circu- 
 lating library : there is also a reading-room, supplied 
 with public journals and periodical publications. The 
 environs abound with picturesque scenery, enlivened by 
 numerous villas, and deriving much interest from the 
 venerable ruins of the ancient castle, and the beautiful 
 grounds of Huntly Lodge, on the opposite bank of the 
 Doveron. The linen manufacture was formerly carried 
 on here to a great extent, but since the termination of the 
 war it has very much declined ; and at present not more 
 than about forty weavers are employed, for the whole- 
 sale houses of Aberdeen, and a few in the weaving of 
 damask. There are a bleach-field upon a moderate 
 scale, and a tannery and distillery in full operation ; the 
 usual handicraft trades for the supply of the neighbour- 
 ing district afford employment to many of the inhabit- 
 ants, and there are numerous shops supplied with mer- 
 chandise of various kinds. From its situation on the 
 principal road from Aberdeen to Inverness, the town has 
 a considerable degree of traffic. The post-office has a 
 daily delivery ; and there are branches of the North of 
 Scotland, the Town and County, and the Aberdeen 
 Banks, for the first of which a handsome building has 
 been erected in the square. A market is held on Thurs- 
 day, which is amply supplied with grain, and nunie- 
 
 4 D
 
 HUNT 
 
 HURL 
 
 rously attended by dealers from different parts of the 
 country ; and fairs, chiefly for cattle and horses, are 
 held monthly, of which those at Whitsuntide and Mar- 
 tinmas are also for hiring servants. Facility of com- 
 munication is afforded by good turnpike-roads ; that 
 from Aberdeen to Inverness passes through the town, 
 that to Banff through the north-east, and one to Portsoy 
 through the northern, district of the parish. The town 
 was erected into a free burgh of barony by charter of 
 James III., granted to George, second Earl of Huntly ; 
 and is governed by a baron bailie, appointed by the supe- 
 rior, but whose jurisdiction extends only to the removal 
 of obstructions in the streets and thoroughfares. 
 
 The parishes of Dumbennan and Kinoir were united 
 in 1727, and, in honour of the eldest son of the Duke of 
 Gordon, called Huntly. The united parish is about ten 
 miles in length, and four miles in breadth. Its surface 
 is diversified with hills of moderate height, which sur- 
 round the town on all sides, and of which the hill of 
 Kinoir, in the immediate vicinity, consisting of several 
 thousand acres, has been planted by the Duke of Rich- 
 mond at an expense of nearly £3000. The rivers are the 
 Doveron and the Bogie. Of these, the Doveron has its 
 source in the hills of Cabrach, and flowing through the 
 parish in a north-eastern direction, receives the waters of 
 the Bogie. The Bogie rises in the parish of Auchindoir, 
 and forms the boundary between this parish and that of 
 Drumblade for two or three miles. Both the rivers 
 abound with trout, and salmon are also found in the 
 Doveron. The quantity of land which is arable cannot 
 be precisely determined, but there is little waste capable 
 of improvement : the soil, though various, and consisting 
 principally of claj', moss, and gravel, is tolerably fertile ; 
 and the chief crops are oats, barley, and bear. There is 
 good pasture on the hills for cattle, of which consider- 
 able numbers are reared, and sent to the English mar- 
 kets ; but few sheep are bred in the parish. The system 
 of husbandry has been improved under the auspices of 
 an agricultural society of which the Duke of Richmond 
 is patron, and which holds annual meetings in the town 
 for the distribution of prizes, when a cattle-show takes 
 place. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £7-45. The plantations consist chiefly of birch, elm, 
 oak, and larch, Scotch, and spruce firs, all of which are 
 carefully managed, and in a thriving state. In general 
 the rocks are of granite and whinstone : limestone has 
 been quarried, though it is of inferior quality, and very 
 difficult to work with any prospect of advantage ; and 
 ironstone and plumbago have been also found. Huntly 
 Lodge, the seat of the Dowager Duchess of Gordon, was 
 originally a shooting-box belonging to the dukes : about 
 twenty years since, it was enlarged and greatly im- 
 proved as a residence. It is an elegant mansion, beauti- 
 fully situated in a demesne embellished with plantations, 
 and tastefully laid out in walks, and enlivened by the 
 rivers Doveron and Bogie, which unite within the grounds. 
 Avochy House, the seat of John Gordon, Esq., is a plea- 
 sant residence, in the grounds of which are some slight 
 remains of the ancient castle of Avochy. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 limits of the presbytery of Strathbogie, synod of Moray. 
 The minister's stipend is £185. 13. 9., with a manse, and 
 a glebe valued at £25 per annum ; patron, the Duke of 
 Richmond. Huntly church, situated in the centre of 
 the town, is a spacious plain structure, erected in 1805, 
 570 
 
 at a cost of £2600, and containing 1800 sittings. The 
 new church, erected in 1841, at an expense of £1400, is 
 also in the town, and contains 1100 sittings; the duty 
 is performed by a missionary, appointed by the General 
 Assembly, and who has a stipend of £100, derived 
 chiefly from the seat-rents. There are places of worship 
 for members of the Free Church, the United Presbyterian 
 Church, and Independents ; also an Episcopalian chapel, 
 and a Roman Catholic chapel, the latter a handsome 
 structure in the later English style. The parochial school 
 is well attended ; the master has a salary of £34, with a 
 house and garden, and the fees average £60. He also 
 receives £30 per annum from the Dick bequest. The 
 school is held in a building erected by the Duchess 
 Dowager of Gordon, in which are also held a school con- 
 nected with the new church, and supported by subscrip- 
 tion, and an infant and a sewing school, the mistresses 
 of which receive salaries from the duchess. A dispen- 
 sary is maintained ; and there are several friendly socie- 
 ties, and a savings' bank in which are deposits amount- 
 ing to £3644. The remains of the castle consist partly 
 of those of the ancient castle of Strathbogie, of which the 
 chief portion is a large circular tower, now in ruins ; and 
 partly of the restorations of Huntly Castle, which also 
 are greatly dilapidated. The whole forms a venerable 
 ruin, situated on the Doveron, near the bridge. 
 
 HURLET, a village, in the Abbey parish of the 
 town of Paisley, Upper ward of the county of Renfrew, 
 3 miles (S. E.) from Paisley ; containing 287 inhabitants. 
 This village and the adjacent hamlets are inhabited chiefly 
 by colliers, and others employed in the extensive mineral 
 works carried on in the district. The immediate neigh- 
 bourhood abounds with coal, which has been wrought 
 for more than three centuries ; and ironstone is found 
 in great abundance, in the procuring of which alone 
 about 100 men are at present constantly engaged. The 
 manufacture of copperas was introduced into Scotland by 
 a company from Liverpool, who established their works 
 at this place ; and a similar concern was formed at 
 Nitshill, in the vicinity, in ISO7, by a company who 
 subsequently purchased the works at Hurlet, which they 
 converted into a manufactory for alum. Large quanti- 
 ties of muriate of potash and sulphate of ammonia are 
 also produced, and conveyed to Glasgow and Paisley by 
 canal, and by the Hurlet railway. The produce of the 
 mines and mineral works in the district, in a recent 
 year, was, 42,554 tons of coal, 4931 tons of limestone, 
 5701 tons of aluminous schistus, 1200 tons of alum, and 
 300 tons of copperas ; the number of men employed was 
 5S0. To remedy the distress to which the miners and 
 others are subject, from the frequent occurrence of 
 accidents in their dangerous employments, a friendly 
 society has been established ; and about 100 children of 
 the workmen attend a school in the neighbourhood, 
 where they are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic, 
 and on Sunday receive religious instruction. The villages 
 of Corsemill and Dovecothall, in the vicinity, are chiefly 
 inhabited by persons employed in the bleaching and 
 print fields on the banks of the river Levern ; and several 
 persons are occupied in the extensive cotton-mills at 
 Barrhead, in the adjoining parish of Neilston. In the 
 year 1 848 an act of parliament was passed for the con- 
 struction of a railway from Paisley to Barrhead, with 
 certain branches ; to be called the Paisley, Barrhead, and 
 Hurlet railway.
 
 HUTT 
 
 H UTT 
 
 HURLFORD, a village, in the parish of Riccarton, 
 district of Kyle, ciiunty of Ayr, 1^ mile (K. S. E.) from 
 Kilmarnock; containing 3* 1 inhabitants. This place is 
 seated on the south bank of the river Irvine, over which 
 is a good and substantial bridge, that has lately under- 
 gone extensive alteration and repair. The population is 
 chiefly engaged in the coal-works in operation in the pa- 
 rish. The great high-road from Ayr to Edinburgh inter- 
 sects the village. There is a school, the master of which 
 has a free house and garden. 
 
 HUTCHESONTOWN, a small district, including a 
 town, in the parish of Govan, barony of Gorbals, 
 within the jurisdiction of Glasgow, county of Lanark ; 
 containing about 5000 inhabitants. This place, which 
 forms one of the principal suburbs of the city of Glasgow, 
 is situated to the south of the river Clyde, on land pur- 
 chased in 1647 by the corporation of Hutcheson's 
 Hospital. The town was commenced in 1794, and con- 
 sists of several spacious and well-formed streets, inter- 
 secting each other at right angles ; the houses are gene- 
 rally from three to four stories in height, and are re- 
 spectably built of stone, and roofed with slate. The 
 whole is well lighted with gas, and amply supplied with 
 water. There was facility of communication with the 
 city provided by a bridge over the Clyde, which was 
 scarcely completed when it was swept away by an in- 
 undation of the river, in 1795. The loss of this bridge 
 greatly retarded the progress of the town ; and it was 
 not till the year IS'29 that the foundation sttme of a new 
 one, on the same site, was laid by the preceptor of the 
 hospital. The bridge is a handsome structure of five 
 arches, from a design by Mr. Robert Stevenson, civil 
 engineer ; it is 406 feet in length, and thirty-six feet wide 
 within the parapets. 
 
 A large portion of the population are employed in the 
 cotton manufacture, weaving both by power and hand 
 looms ; and in different branches of the linen trade. A 
 very extensive factory for weaving stripes and checks for 
 furniture, various fabrics for women's dresses, shirtings, 
 and other articles, was established here by Messrs. So- 
 merville and sons. There are also some foundries and 
 iron-works in the district, the most important of which 
 are those of Mr. W. Dixon, who has erected several hot- 
 blast furnaces on the principle of Neilson's patent, in 
 which about 4000 tons of pig-iron are annually produced. 
 The greater portion of the town was included within the 
 late ecclesiastical district of Hutchesontown, formed un- 
 der an act of the General Assembly, and attached to the 
 parish of Gorbals. The church is a plain but elegant 
 structure, erected in 1839, at a cost of £2600, by the 
 Church-Building Society, and containing more than 1000 
 sittings : it is now rented by a Free Church congrega- 
 tion. The members of the United Presbyterian Church 
 have also a place of worship. A school-house, capable 
 of receiving 650 children, has been built by subscription, 
 aided by a grant from government ; instruction is afforded 
 upon very moderate terms. There are likewise several 
 Sunday schools for children of both sexes. 
 
 HUTTON, a parish, in the county of Berwick, 
 6 miles (W. byN.) from Berwick-upon-Tweed; contain- 
 ing, with the village of Paxton, 1133 inhabitants. The 
 parish of Hutton was enlarged in the year 1614, by the 
 annexation of the neighbouring parish of Fishwick ; and 
 these two districts form the parish as it at present exists. 
 Hutton, which lies near the Whitadder river, is supposed 
 571 
 
 to have derived its name from the situation of its village 
 in a hollow, whence the term How-town, corrupted into 
 Hutton. Fishwick, which is on the banks of the Tweed, 
 is generally thought to have derived its name from the 
 avocations of its inhabitants as fishermen in ancient 
 times : the churchyard there still continues, but the 
 owner of the property some years since built a family 
 cemetery in the pointed style, in the form of a chapel, on 
 the ruins of the church, which are not now visible. From 
 a diary of the progress of Edward I. through Scotland, 
 it seems probcible that the king encamped in this locality 
 on the '29th of March, 1296, the day preceding that on 
 which he took the town of Berwick. It appears that 
 Hatton, or Hauden, was the place where he rested with 
 his army the day after he left Coldstream ; and as this 
 parish lies in the direct line of his march to Berwick 
 from Coldstream, where he crossed the Tweed on the 
 28th of March, it is concluded that Hutton must be the 
 spot there referred to. 
 
 The parish, which resembles in figure an irregular 
 triangle, is about four miles long and three broad, and 
 contains 5261 acres. It is bounded on the north by the 
 parishes of Chirnside, Foulden, and Mordington, from 
 which it is separated by the Whitadder river ; the parish 
 has the river Tweed on the south, the parish of Berwick 
 on the east, Edrom on the west, and Whitsome and 
 Ladykirk on the south-west. The surface presents almost 
 one continued flat, with the exception of the ground on 
 the banks of the Tweed and Whitadder, which, being 
 diversified with gentle elevations, relieves the tame and 
 uninteresting scenery in the other parts of the parish. 
 The height of these elevations, however, above the sea, 
 seldom exceeds 150 feet. Near the rivers the soil is a 
 rich deep loam, resting upon sandstone, and exceedingly 
 fertile, producing heavy crops. In the middle of the pa- 
 rish the ground is of an inferior quality, being thin, wet, 
 and moorish, and rests upon a tenacious clayey subsoil. 
 A tract of this description, about a mile broad, commences 
 here, and runs from east to west, to the extremity of the 
 county ; while on each side of it the earth is rich and 
 productive. The parish comprises 4950 acres either cul- 
 tivated or occasionally in tillage. Above sixty acres on 
 the banks of the rivers, being too steep for the operations 
 of the plough, remain for the most part in natural pas- 
 ture, part of which is of very superior quality. About 
 250 acres are occupied by wood, consisting of ash, elm, 
 plane, oak, beech, and all the varieties of fir : this de- 
 partment of rural economy claims much of the attention 
 of the proprietors, especially on the estates of Broad 
 Meadows, Paxton, and Fishwick, where the plantations 
 are in a very thriving condition. The lands are con- 
 sidered most suitable to wheat, but excellent crops of 
 turnips are produced, as well as of grain of all kinds. 
 Tile-draining has of late years been extensively practised 
 in the parish with great effect. The farm-buildings and 
 offices are in general neat and convenient ; and nearly 
 the whole of the grounds are inclosed with good thorn- 
 hedges. Improvements in every department of hus- 
 bandry have, indeed, been carried on for many years 
 past. Sandstone of various kinds is the prevailing rock : 
 on the estate of Hutton Hall is a stratum of very fine 
 gypsum. The annual value of real property in the parish 
 is £10,446. 
 
 There are several mansion-houses, of which Hutton 
 Hall is the most ancient and remarkable. It is situated 
 
 4D2
 
 H U TT 
 
 on an eminence near the Whitadder, and appears to have 
 been originally a square tower constructed principally 
 for observation and security, to which many subsequent 
 additions have been made, to accommodate it to the 
 usages of modern times. This mansion is now uninha- 
 bited, and fast verging to ruin. The mansion of Paiton 
 was built about eighty or ninety years ago, of dark sand- 
 stone ; the front is massive and commanding, and the 
 house is enlivened by the passage of the river Tweed on 
 the south-east : the apartments are elegant and commo- 
 dious, and a very valuable collection of paintings enriches 
 the mansion. Broad- Meadons is constructed of fine 
 white freestone, and is a modern building in the Grecian 
 style of architecture. The scenery in the vicinity of 
 these residences is interesting, and in some parts beau- 
 tiful, especially that near Paxton. Not far from the 
 last-named place are Spittal House and Tweed Hill, the 
 latter of which stands on the river Tweed, in the vicinity 
 of the Union chain-bridge. 
 
 The population are almost entirely agricultural ; their 
 chief communication is with the town of Berwick. On 
 the estate of Paxton is a manufactory for bricks and tiles, 
 where large quantities of the latter are produced for 
 drainage. Three corn-mills are also in operation in the 
 parish, the produce of which, consisting of flour, meal, 
 and pearl-barley, is exported from Berwick to London. 
 Upon that part of the Tweed forming the boundary line 
 of the parish are four or five fishing-stations ; upwards 
 of twenty men are employed, and considerable quantities 
 of trout, salmon, and grilse are caught, which are packed 
 in ice at Berwick, and despatched by steam-vessels to the 
 London market. Two turnpike-roads pass through the 
 parish, one leading from Berwick to Dunse, and the other 
 from Berwick to Kelso by way of Swinton : the lines of 
 turnpike-road are about ten miles, and the parish roads 
 of equal extent. About two miles and a half from the 
 village of Hutton, and six from Berwick, is the iron sus- 
 pension-bridge over the Tweed, erected in 1820, and by 
 which many serious accidents and the loss of lives have 
 been prevented : it is 361 feet in length, and of one hun- 
 dred tons' weight of malleable iron ; the whole expense 
 being between £7000 and £8000. Another bridge has 
 been lately erected near Hutton Mill, across the Whit- 
 adder, connecting the parish with Foulden, and also 
 opening a facility of communication with the sea-port of 
 Eyemouth : it is a handsome structure, and most con- 
 venient for the locality. Ecclesiastically Hutton is within 
 the limits of the presbytery of Chirnside, synod of Merse 
 and Teviotdale, and the patronage is vested in the Crown : 
 the stipend of the minister is £236, with a manse, built 
 fifty or sixty years ago, and enlarged and repaired in 
 1822. There are two glebes, one of them in Hutton and 
 the other in Fishwick, amounting together to about thir- 
 teen acres, valued at £30 per annum. The present 
 church, erected in 1834, is remarkably neat in its exter- 
 nal appearance ; it is in the Norman style of architecture, 
 and affords excellent accommodation for upwards of 600 
 hearers. There is a parochial school, in which Latin, 
 mathematics, geography, &c., are taught, and for which 
 a good school-house, and dwelling-house for the master, 
 were lately built : the master's salary is £34. Another 
 school is held in Paxton, and a girls' school in Hutton. 
 The parish also has two small parochial libraries, a 
 friendly society, and an agricultural association, the last 
 designed chiefly to promote improvements in ploughing. 
 5/2 
 
 H U T T 
 
 Dr. Andrew Foreman, Bishop of Moray, Archbishop of 
 Bourges in France, and afterwards Archbishop of St. 
 Andrew's, who flourished at the beginning of the sixteenth 
 centurv, was a native of the parish. 
 
 HUTTON and CORRIE, a parish, in the county of 
 Dumfries, 7 miles (N. N. E.) from Lockerbie; contain- 
 ing 809 inhabitants. The name ot Hutton appears to be 
 derived from the term Holt, signifying an elevated piece 
 of ground or a mound of earth : some mounds of artifi- 
 cial construction in the district were used in ancient 
 times as seats of deliberation, and for the administration 
 of justice. Corrie, which was joined to Hutton soon 
 after the Reformation, derives its appellation from a 
 rivulet which runs through it, and the name of which, 
 in the Gaelic language, signifies "a narrow glen": the 
 stream issues from a glen. On the farm of Closs, in the 
 parish, are some remains of a place called Maskersa, 
 where the Grahams of Gillesbie tormerly had their resi- 
 dence, but from which they removed, more than 300 years 
 ago, to a tower on the brink of the Dryfe, which was a 
 fortress of great strength, surrounded by a fosse. Of 
 this family the descendants still retain property in the 
 neighbourhood. It was in the Tower of Gillesbie that 
 the first president of the court of session was for a time 
 confined, when taken away to prevent his giving a deci- 
 sion in a suit in which one of the parties thought he had 
 too much influence. 
 
 The PARISH extends twelve miles in length from north- 
 west to south-east, and the average breadth is about 
 three miles ; comprising an area of nearly 23,000 acres. 
 It is bounded on the north-east by the ridge of hills 
 which divides Annandale from Eskdale ; on the south- 
 east by the Water of Milk, which separates Corrie from 
 the parish of Tundergarth ; and on the north and west 
 by the parishes of W'amphray, Applegarth, and Dryfes- 
 dale. The general aspect of the country is diversified 
 with an agreeable variety of scenery. Towards the north 
 the hills are covered with verdure, and the banks of the 
 Dryfe with wood, the effect of which is considerably 
 heightened by the course of the stream, which runs over 
 a gravelly, and frequently a rocky, bottom. In the di- 
 rection of the Milk, the view is somewhat similar ; but 
 the features of the landscape are less marked and pro- 
 minent. On the heights between these two waters, the 
 scene is reversed, and becomes bleak and rugged. The 
 soil in some places in the parish is mixed with a fine 
 gravel, and in others with good clay ; in the high lands 
 it is mossy or moorish. About 3000 acres of land are 
 occasionally cultivated. None of the remaining 20,000 
 have been ploughed within the last fifty years : much of 
 this ground was formerly in tillage ; but the consolida- 
 tion of the small farms has led to the conversion of a 
 considerable quantity of ploughed land into pasture. All 
 kinds of white and green crops are raised, with the ex- 
 ception of wheat ; and the system of husbandry in this 
 as in other parishes is greatly improved. About two- 
 thirds of the lands are employed as sheep pasture in 
 nine or ten regular breeding-farms, keeping about 10,000 
 sheep, which are wholly Cheviots except 600 or 700 of 
 the black-faced. The cattle, which are also of a superior 
 description, and much attended to, are of the black Gal- 
 loway breed. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £5300. The communication of the people is 
 chiefly with Dumfries, seventeen miles distant. Formerly 
 the roads were in bad condition ; but they have been 
 
 I 
 
 I
 
 I L L A 
 
 INCH 
 
 entirely re-constructed within the last thirty or forty 
 years : among them are two hues, one of which leads 
 from Dumfries towards Hawick, and the other from Mof- 
 fat towards Langholm and Carlisle. There are bridges 
 over the Dryfe, the Corrie, and the Milk, which, as well 
 as the roads, are kept in good repair. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 limits of the presbytery of Lochmaben, synod of Dum- 
 fries; patrons, the Johnstone family of Annandale. The 
 stipend of the minister is about £'240, with a manse, 
 built in 1803, and since enlarged and improved, and a 
 glebe of about thirty-six acres, worth £25 per annum. 
 The church is situated near the Dryfe, equidistant from 
 the north-eastern and southern extremities of the parish ; 
 it is in good repair, and accommodates 312 persons with 
 sittings. There is a parochial school in the Hutton 
 division of the parish, where the classics, mathematics, 
 and French, with the usual branches of education, are 
 taught. The master has a salary of £27, a house 
 and garden, and about £20 fees ; he receives also two- 
 thirds of the interest of £260 bequeathed in 1802 by Mr. 
 James Graham, a native of the parish, for teaching poor 
 children reading, writing, and arithmetic. There is ano- 
 ther parochial school at Corrie, which has been for a 
 considerable time endowed with a bequest by Mr. Ed- 
 ward Moffatt, of Exeter, consisting of the interest of 
 £280, for teaching the children of this division of the 
 parish reading and writing. In 1820, Col. James Wil- 
 son, grand-nephew of the founder, added £20 per annum 
 to the salary, on condition of the master teaching the 
 children arithmetic, and that the school should be con- 
 sidered as endowed, he and his heirs appointing the 
 master. The heritors of Corrie pay the master £16 a 
 year ; and besides a house and garden, he has five acres 
 of good pasture ground ; together with fees paid for 
 teaching other branches than reading, writing, and arith- 
 metic, these three being taught free. The same branches 
 of instruction are taught here as in the school at Hutton. 
 The relics of antiquity consist of the remains of several 
 old intrenchments of a circular form, called British forts, 
 and of a rectangular intrenchment at Carter-town, which 
 was a Roman camp, and is supposed to have been a post 
 of communication between Annandale and Eskdale, 
 where the Romans had several stations. 
 
 /. IBRIS, or EYEBROUGHY, an isle, in the parish 
 
 of DiRLETON, county of Haddington. This islet lies 
 close to the main land of tlie parish, in the Firth of 
 Forth, and is of small extent, and very narrow. The 
 isle of Fidrey, also appertaining to Dirleton, is distant 
 about a mile east-north-east from Ibris. 
 
 ICOLMKILL, county of Argyll. — See Iona. 
 
 ILLARY, an island, in tlie parish of North Uist, 
 county of Inverness; containing 80 inhabitants. It 
 is one of the Hebrides, lying westward of North Uist; 
 and is three miles in length, and in most places one mile 
 and a half in breadth. The soil is partly sandy, and 
 partly a black loam, yielding tolerable crops of barley, 
 and some pasture for cattle. Illary is of insular appear- 
 ance only at the flow of the tide. 
 573 
 
 INCH, a parish, in the county of Wigtown, 2^ miles 
 (E.) from Stranraer; containing, with the villages of 
 Cairnryan and Lochans, 2950 inhabitants. This place, 
 which is of great antiquity, and distinguished for its 
 lochs, appears to have derived its name from an island 
 in the loch of Castle-Kennedy, which was called the 
 Inch, an appellation corrupted from the Celtic word Inis 
 or Ynis, signifying "an island". In very ancient times 
 the locality was occupied by the Novantes, whose town 
 of Rerigoniiim was situated on the bank of the Rerigonius 
 simis, now called Loch Ryan, and was near the farm of 
 Innermessan, adjacent to which is a large circular mound 
 or moat, formerly surrounded, as is supposed, by a fosse, 
 and measuring seventy-eight feet in height, and 336 feet 
 round its base. Various purposes have been assigned 
 to this work of antiquity ; but whether it was intended 
 for the administration of justice, for a rendezvous in 
 times of danger, or for the Beltan (Bel's fire), or for all 
 these, is uncertain. The circumstance, however, of 
 charred wood, ashes, and bones having been found at 
 some depth below the surface, within its hne of circum- 
 scription, is strong evidence of its having been used oc- 
 casionally, and perhaps regularly, as a place of sepulture. 
 On or near the site of Rerigoniiim, at a later period, stood 
 the town and castle of Innermessan. The former, till 
 eclipsed by the town of Stranraer, was the largest place 
 in the Rhins of Galloway ; the latter belonged to Sir 
 Andrew Agnew of Lochnaw ; but no traces of either re- 
 main, except a sewer about three feet under ground. 
 
 The celebrated abbey of Soulseat, or Saulseat, was 
 founded here in the twelfth century, by Fergus, lord of 
 Galloway, for Praemonstratensian monks. Though its 
 history is for the most part involved in obscurity, 
 Chalmers is of opinion that it was the first institution 
 of the order in Scotland ; that its abbots were the supe- 
 riors of the Praemonstratensian monks throughout the 
 kingdom ; and that the establishment was the parent 
 of the more opulent priory of Whithorn, as well as of 
 the abbey of Holywood. In an act of parliament of 
 1487, it is spoken of as not being subject to the autho- 
 rity or appointment of the Pope. In 1532, it appears 
 that David, abbot of Soulseat, was invested with a com- 
 mission from the king, to visit and reform all the houses 
 in Scotland of his own order ; and in 165S, the abbot is 
 named in a document as uniting with others in defence 
 of the queen. The abbey was situated on a peninsula 
 that stretched out into a lake, to which it gave its name ; 
 and was surrounded by a burying-ground : it was called 
 Sedes Animarum, and Monasterium viridis stagni, the latter 
 term in allusion to the green appearance, at certain 
 times, of the surface of the lake. Soulseat Abbey was a 
 ruin in 1684, and but very small portions of the remains 
 are now to be seen : part of the burying-ground is still 
 occasionally used as a place of interment. The mansion 
 of Castle-Kennedy, which was accidentally destroyed 
 by fire in 1715, was a lofty and spacious structure, sup- 
 posed to have been built in the reign of James VI., and 
 was the seat of the powerful Earls of Cassilis, whose 
 property and influence spread over so large a part of 
 Wigtownshire. It passed with the lands, in the time of 
 Charles II., to Sir J. Dalrymple the younger, of Stair, 
 in whose family the estate has since continued, though 
 the building, the remaining walls of which are seventy 
 feet high, has not been inhabited since the fire. The 
 structure is surrounded by grounds beautifully laid out
 
 INCH 
 
 INCH 
 
 after a military plan devised by Marshal Stair ; and 
 adjoining are flourishing plantations, containing some 
 lofty and luxuriant ash-trees. 
 
 The PARISH formerly comprehended the parish of 
 Portpatrick and part of that of Stranraer. Portpatrick 
 was separated and made distinct in 16'28 ; and about the 
 same period, a portion of Inch, with some land in Les- 
 walt, was allotted to form the parish of Stranraer, and 
 the old parish of Soulseat was united to Inch. The pa- 
 rish has the county of Ayr on the north, the parishes of 
 New and Old Luce on the east, and that of Stoneykirk 
 on the south ; on the west it is bounded for about eight 
 miles by Loch Ryan. It is ten miles in length, and in 
 one part nearly of the same breadth, comprising 30,600 
 acres, of which 12,600 are cultivated or occasionally in 
 tillage, and the remainder waste or natural pasture. 
 The northern portion is principally high land, rising in 
 some places to an elevation of 8)2 feet above the level 
 of the sea ; and, with the exception of a small portion 
 under the plough, is in general rugged, and covered 
 with heath, about 800 acres only being considered capa- 
 ble of cultivation. The southern portion, which is part 
 of an isthmus formed by Loch Ryan and the bay of 
 Luce, is slightly undulated, but when viewed from the 
 hills has the appearance of a continuous plain. It con- 
 tains several hollows, provincially called Pots, which 
 were produced by the action of the water when spread 
 over this division of the parish, and one of which is 1000 
 feet in circumference, and 100 feet deep. 
 
 The river Luce, in which are good salmon, forms the 
 boundary hne between this parish and Luce ; and the 
 Piltanton, a smaller and slower stream, falling, like the 
 former, into the bay of Luce, divides Inch from Stoney- 
 kirk. There are also twelve fresh-water lochs, including 
 those of Castle-Kennedy and Soulseat, both which are 
 celebrated for their beautiful scenery. The whole of the 
 lakes abound in pike, perch, trout, eels, and roach ; and in 
 the frosty weather, some of them are frequented by large 
 numbers of wild-duck, teal, widgeon, coots, and cormo- 
 rants. These, with the swarms of wild-geese near the 
 brooks and the sea-shore, and the flocks of curlews, 
 plovers, and every kind of game on the high lands, afford 
 ample gratification to the sportsman, and impart an air 
 of liveliness to the district, which is sometimes increased 
 by crowds of persons of all ranks enjoying the favourite 
 amusements of curling and skating upon the frozen sur- 
 face of the lakes. Swans, also, frequently visit the place 
 in the winter ; and in the spring the sea-mew finds a re- 
 treat among the sedge of the lochs, for bringing forth 
 her young. Loch Ryan, at the mouth of the Clyde, has 
 always been a secure retreat for vessels entering or 
 leaving that river, and for vessels navigating the Irish 
 Channel, even in the most stormy and dangerous wea- 
 ther, there being excellent anchorage and safe shelter off 
 the village of Cairnryan. It is between eight and nine 
 miles in length, from its northern extremity to the town 
 of Stranraer at its head, and is about three miles wide 
 at the entrance. The loch has at first from four to five 
 fathoms' depth of water, which gradually increases to 
 from seven to eight ; and it is considered to be admira- 
 bly adapted for a mail-packet station between Scotland 
 and Ireland. Salmon are taken in its estuaries ; and the 
 produce of the fishery of Loch Ryan comprises cod, had- 
 dock, whiting, herrings, flounders, and oysters of very 
 superior quality. 
 574 
 
 The SOIL, varying almost as much as the surface, is 
 in the high grounds partly loam, but chiefly clay, with 
 a considerable portion of moss, and large tracts of peat, 
 from which the inhabitants are plentifully supplied with 
 good fuel. In the lower parts it is light and fertile, 
 resting on gravel or sand, and produces good crops of 
 all kinds of grain, with potatoes, turnips, and hay. The 
 cultivation of the turnip was introduced into the parish, 
 about a century since, by Marshal Stair, and though 
 practised only to a very inconsiderable extent till within 
 the last few years, has now become a favourite branch 
 of husbandry, the lightness of the soil being remarkably 
 suited to the root. The turnip crops are eaten off the 
 ground by sheep, to the great advantage of the land. In 
 this parish the cattle are still partly of the Galloway 
 kind ; but the great regard formerly paid to this stock 
 has lately much diminished, and the farmers, turning 
 their attention more to the dairy, have introduced the 
 Ayrshire cow ; and cheese now forms a considerable part 
 of the disposable produce. Numerous in)provements in 
 agriculture have taken place within the present century : 
 many acres of bog have been reclaimed, and converted 
 into good arable land, now yielding fine crops ; and 
 most of the farm-houses have been rendered comfortable 
 dwellings. The present Earl of Stair resides at Culborn 
 House, in the parish, and has given a fresh stimulus to 
 agricultural improvements by his encouragement and 
 example. The fences on the lower grounds are occa- 
 sionally formed of thorn-hedges, but are generally turf 
 dykes, sown with whins ; on the higher lands they are 
 entirely of stone. The annual value of real property in 
 Inch is £10,986. The geology of the parish has no 
 striking features, the hills consisting chiefly of stratified 
 transition rocks, the principal of which is greywacke : 
 detached blocks of granite are occasionally to be seen ; 
 and near Loch Ryan is an excellent slate-quarry. Seve- 
 ral attempts have been made to discover coal, but with- 
 out effect. There is a little natural wood, principally in 
 the glens of the higher district ; the plantations cover 
 655 acres of land, all inclosed. The oldest of the plan- 
 tations are those made by Marshal Stair, and consist 
 chiefly of beech, a wood supposed at that time to be the 
 only one suited to the soil and climate, but which has 
 since been equalled, if not surpassed, in growth and 
 value by the ash and plane. These latter, with oak, 
 elm, and larch, are now to be found, in a thriving condi- 
 tion, in most of the plantations, and serve very bene- 
 ficially as a protection to the arable grounds. 
 
 The chief village is Cairnryan, which contains 196 per- 
 sons, and is distant seven miles from the parish church ; 
 about 100 persons reside in another village, and a few in 
 a suburb of Stranraer, lately built in the parish. The 
 high road from London to Portpatrick, and that from 
 Glasgow to the same place, pass through the parish ; 
 and the steam-packet plying between Glasgow and 
 Stranraer, and that from Belfast to Stranraer, touch 
 at Cairnryan for passengers and goods. A monthly 
 market, called "the Stranraer cattle-market", is held 
 from April to October. Ecclesiastically the parish 
 is in the presbytery of Stranraer, synod of Galloway, 
 and in the patronage of the Crown. The stipend is 
 £264; and there is a manse, rebuilt in 1H38, with a 
 glebe containing eighteen acres, valued at £15. 15. per 
 annum, and four acres, lately added by the draining of 
 a loch. Inch church, built in 1770, and capable of ac-
 
 INCH 
 
 INCH 
 
 eommodating 400 persons, occupies a beautiful situation 
 adjoining the picturesque woods and lake of Castle- Ken- 
 nedy. A chapel was built at Cairnryan some years ago, 
 in connexion with the Establishment ; and there are 
 two places of worship for members of the Free Church, 
 one of them situated at Cairnryan, and the other in an- 
 other part of the parish. The parochial school affords 
 instruction in the classics, practical mathematics, and 
 the various branches of a good education ; the master 
 receives the minimum salary, about £23 in fees, and has 
 a house and garden. 
 
 At Glenterra is a relic of antiquity called the Standing 
 Stones, situated near the road to New Luce, consisting 
 of four large upright stones, and conjectured to have 
 been originally a Druidical temple : near these is a 
 single stone, also erect. There is likewise a series of 
 stones called the Stepping- Stones of Glenterra, disposed 
 like stairs, extending for about a quarter of a mile along 
 a peaty moss, and supposed to have been placed there 
 for the convenience of transit. Stone axes are occa- 
 sionally discovered ; and there are numerous cairns in 
 the upper, and tumuli in the lower, part of the parish, 
 which are generally thought to have been raised by the 
 Novantes for sepulchral purposes. The cairns are usually 
 called the Atitd Or^y Cairns, and are formed of a circular 
 heap of stories, from fifty to seventy feet in diameter, 
 and rising from six to eight feet in the centre : in the 
 interior is a cavity formed by large flat stones, in which 
 an urn is generally found, containing bony fragments, 
 ashes, &c. At the farm of Larg, near the river Luce, 
 are the remains of a castle, once the residence of the 
 Lyns of Larg. The castle of Craig-Caffie was the pro- 
 perty of the Nelsons, a family now extinct, and is a 
 moderate-sized ancient structure, surrounded by a fosse, 
 and still in good condition, but converted into a farm- 
 house. In that part of the parish which, with a portion 
 of Leswalt, was detached to form the parish of Stranraer, 
 was a chapel dedicated to St. John ; and near this stood 
 a castle, which Symson, in his description of Galloway, 
 written in 1684, calls "a good house pertaining to Sir 
 John Dalrymple, younger, of Stair," but which is now 
 a jail for the town of Stranraer. There are several chaly- 
 beate springs, and some partially sulphureous. Marshal 
 Stair, celebrated in military and political history, was a 
 native of the parish of Inch. North-west Castle is the 
 seat of Sir John Ross, the well-known navigator of the 
 Arctic, who was born here in 1777, during the incum- 
 bency of his father, the Rev. Andrew Ross ; and General 
 Sir J. Alexander Agnew Wallace, distinguished as a 
 military officer in Egypt, India, and the Peninsula, re- 
 sides at Lochryan House, in the parish. 
 INCHBRAYOCK.— See Rossie. 
 X INCH-CAILLOCH, an isle, in the parish of Bucha- 
 nan, county of Stirling. This beautiful island, the 
 name of which signifies the " Isle of Old Women", is 
 situated in Loch Lomond, and is one of a cluster in that 
 magnificent and celebrated lake. It lies close to the 
 shore, about two miles distant in a line westward from 
 the church of Buchanan, and is a mile in length, ele- 
 . vated, and covered with wood, except where cultivated 
 for wheat and oats, which it produces of very good qua- 
 lity. Here formerly stood a nunnery, the church 
 attached to which was once the parochial church of 
 Buchanan ; but owing to the inconvenience arising 
 from crossing to the island in boisterous weather, divine 
 575 
 
 service was transferred to a chapel near the house of 
 Buchanan. This place is the property of the Duke of 
 Montrose. 
 
 INCHCOLM, an island, in the parish of Aberdour, ^ 
 district of Dunfermline, county of Fife, li mile (S. 
 by W.) from Aberdour ; containing 5 inhabitants. It is 
 situated in the Firth of Forth, immediately opposite to 
 Aberdour ; and the approach to it is very beautiful. On 
 this island are the remains of a celebrated monastery of 
 Augustines, founded in 1 123, by Alexander I., in accord- 
 ance with a vow, and most richly endowed by his muni- 
 ficence. It soon became famous for its sanctity ; and 
 in consequence, Alan de Mortimer, lord of Aberdour, 
 bestowed half of the lands of the parish on the monks, 
 for the privilege of a family burial-place in their church. 
 The wealth of the convent proved so great a temptation 
 to the army and seamen employed in the invasion of the 
 kingdom by Edward III., that they ravaged it without 
 mercy, not sparing even the vessels consecrated to divine 
 worship. A storm, however, happening instantly to 
 follow, which overtook their ships, and in which many 
 of them perished, they were struck with what they re- 
 garded as a judgment upon their impiety ; and they re- 
 turned on the cessation of the tempest, and restored the 
 spoil. The monastery continued a place of consequence, 
 and was highly venerated, until the Reformation. On 
 every side the island is hemmed in by rugged rocks : in 
 the centre is a hollow vale, connecting the two circular 
 ends of the island, as if by an isthmus ; and a range of 
 fine land and marine scenery appears in all directions, 
 with a splendid view of the city of Edinburgh on the 
 south-east. A small part of the island is arable ; and a 
 few stunted trees grow round the ancient walls of the 
 ruined cloisters. The isle abounds in rabbits ; has an 
 occasional lobster- fishery ; and is noted for its onions, 
 which it produces in great quantities. During the late 
 war with France, Inchcolm was garrisoned by a party of 
 artillery ; and on the east end, where it is high and 
 rocky, a battery of ten guns was at that time erected. 
 
 INCH-CONAGAN, an isle, in the parish of Luss, x 
 county of Dumbarton. It lies in the fine water of 
 Loch Lomond, about a mile eastward of the shore, and 
 is one of a group of several isles closely bordering on one 
 another. Inch-Conagan is more than half a mile in length, 
 and about two furlongs and a half in breadth ; contain- 
 ing about ninety-four acres, chiefly under wood. 
 
 INCH-CRUIN, an isle, in the parish of Buchanan, x 
 county of Stirling. This isle, the name of which sig- 
 nifies "the Round Island", is situated in Loch Lomond, 
 and is about three-quarters of a mile in length, affording 
 some good arable and pasture ground. There was for- 
 merly a retreat here for insane persons. 
 
 INCH-FAD, an isle, in the parish of Buchanan, y 
 county of Stirling. The name of this isle, in English 
 " Long Island", is descriptive of its form ; it is about a 
 mile in length, and between two and three furlongs in 
 breadth, and lies, like the preceding isle, in Loch Lo- 
 mond, not far from the main land of the parish. The 
 soil is very fertile, producing excellent grain, and fine 
 pasture ; and there is a small portion of wood. 
 
 INCHGARVIE, an isle, in the parish of Inver- 
 KEiTHiNG, county of Fife. This is a small islet in the 
 Firth of Forth, about half a mile south of Queensferry 
 in the parish of Inverkeithing, and double this distance 
 from Queensferry on theopposite shore of Linlithgowshire.
 
 INCH 
 
 INCH 
 
 In the reign of James IV., a fort was erected here, 
 which was latterly used as a state prison ; and this fort, 
 or another built on its site, is still remaining on the 
 summit of the isle, in ruins. Owing to the alarm occa- 
 sioned by the appearance of Paul Jones and his squadron 
 in the Firth, in 1*79, the fortifications were renewed, 
 and four twenty-four pounders were mounted upon 
 them ; but they have been since removed. 
 
 INCHINNAN, a parish, in the Upper ward of the 
 county of Renfrew, 3 miles (N.) from Paisley ; con- 
 taining about 500 inhabitants. This place derives its 
 name, signifying in the Gaelic language "a river island", 
 from its peninsular situation, being almost surrounded 
 by the rivers that form its principal boundaries. In 
 some documents it is mentioned under the designation 
 of Killinan, from the circumstance of the site of its 
 church being totally insulated by the winding of one of 
 those rivers, the channel of which, however, was long 
 since diverted. The manor was one of the many grants 
 conferred upon the family of Stuart, previously to their 
 accession to the throne ; and is particularly noticed in 
 a charter of Malcolm IV., dated at Ro.xburgh in 1158, 
 in which that monarch confirms to Walter Stuart the 
 office of high steward of Scotland, and the lands that 
 had been bestowed upon him by David I. In 1511, 
 James IV. granted by charter to Matthew, Lord Darnley, 
 and second Earl of Lennox, the manor and palace of 
 Inchinnan with their dependencies, all which, upon the 
 death of the fourth earl, descended to his grandson 
 James VI., who conferred them upon his great-uncle 
 John, Lord D'Aubigny, whom he also raised to a duke- 
 dom in 1581. These estates, again reverting to the 
 crown, were in 1680 given by Charles II. to his natural 
 son Charles, whom he had created Duke of Lennox and 
 Richmond, and who sold them to the Duke of Montrose, 
 from whom they were ultimately purchased by the an- 
 cestor of Mr. Campbell of Blythswood, the present pro- 
 prietor. 
 
 The PARISH is about three miles and a half in length, 
 and varies from three-quarters of a mile to something 
 more than two miles in breadth. It is bounded on the 
 north by the river Clyde, which separates it from the 
 parish of Kilpatrick, in the county of Dumbarton ; on 
 the south by the river Gryfe, which separates it from the 
 parish of Renfrew ; on the east by the river Cart, which 
 also divides it from Renfrew ; and on the west, by the 
 parishes of Erskine and Houston. The surface rises 
 gradually from the rivers in a gentle acclivity, in some 
 parts diversified with hills of considerable elevation, 
 cultivated from the base nearly to their summits, which 
 are clothed with plantations, adding much beauty and 
 variety to the scenery. The Clyde, which has been 
 much improved by the deepening of its channel, still 
 affords some salmon ; and great quantities of those fish 
 used to be taken here, but the operations of late years 
 carried on for deepening the river have materially affected 
 the salmon-fishery. The river Gryfe flows with a tran- 
 quil course, in a clear and pellucid stream, between pic- 
 turesque banks, till it forms the boundary of the parish. 
 It then passes through the grounds of Walkingshaw, 
 where it receives the Black Cart ; and afterwards wind- 
 ing along a level tract of rich land, meanders round the 
 rocky hill on which the church is built. Then, being 
 joined by the White Cart near the bridge of Inchinnan, 
 it takes the name of Cart, expands into ample breadth. 
 576 
 
 and continues its course till it falls into the Clyde near 
 Blythswood. Both the Gryfe and the Cart abound with 
 perch, and trout, and eels ; and in the river Cart, near 
 its confluence with the Clyde, is an island occasionally 
 frequented by the halcyon or kingfisher. On the banks 
 of the Gryfe and other streams, snipes, wild-duck, and 
 other water-fowl are abundant; pheasants and partridges 
 are plentiful, and grouse are often found on the moors. 
 
 The whole number of acres in the parish is 3060, of 
 which 2600 are arable land in good cultivation, 100 
 natural pasture, and 300 wood. In general the soil is 
 a stiff clay ; on the banks of the rivers, a rich black 
 loam ; and in the hilly parts, a light sand and gravel. 
 The crops are oats, barley, wheat, potatoes, and turnips; 
 the system of husbandry is in a very advanced state, 
 and great improvement has been made in draining and 
 inclosing the lands. Much attention is paid to the 
 management of dairy-farms, and nearly 300 cows are 
 kept for that purpose, which are the finest of the Ayr- 
 shire breed : few horses are reared but such as are em- 
 ployed in agriculture ; these are the Clydesdale. The 
 produce of the dairies finds a ready market at Paisley, 
 to which town also, and to Glasgow, the grain raised in 
 the parish is sent. The farm-buildings are substantial 
 and commodious, and, with very few exceptions, are all 
 roofed with slate. Considerable portions of the moor- 
 lands have been reclaimed, and brought into cultivation. 
 Such of them as still remain produce great quantities 
 of peat, which is used for fuel ; and much of the best 
 quality, which is found on the Southbarr estate, is sent 
 to Edinburgh and Clackmannan by water, and to Glas- 
 gow and Greenock by land carriage, for the supply of 
 the distilleries. The substratum of the soil is generally 
 a loose gravel, interspersed with boulders of primary 
 and secondary rocks, resting upon a bed of carboni- 
 ferous rock, traversed by dykes of whinstone, some of 
 which are of great thickness, and alternated with grey 
 sandstone, in which are found occasionally beautiful 
 specimens of fossils. Limestone and coal are predomi- 
 nant ; and both have been worked, especially the first, 
 to a very considerable extent. Whinstone is quarried 
 for paving, and for mending the roads. Freestone of 
 superior quality is quarried on the lands of Park, whence 
 the stone was taken of which the church and the bridge 
 of this parish are built ; and from the whin dykes, all 
 the materials were furnished for the use of the trustees 
 for the improvement of the Clyde navigation. The an- 
 nual value of real property in the parish is £6308. The 
 seats are Southbarr, Park, and House of Hill or North- 
 barr. There are two assemblages of houses, namely, 
 Broomlands and Luckensford, but neither deserves the 
 name of village : the population of the parish is purely 
 agricultural. The bridge over the Gryfe and the White 
 Cart, near their confluence, is an elegant structure erected 
 at an expense of £17,000, and consists of two divisions, 
 each spanning one of those rivers : near it is a wharf, to 
 which coal is brought for the supply of the inhabitants ; 
 and there is another bridge at Barnsford. Good roads 
 afford communication with the neighbouring towns. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 limits of the presbytery of Paisley, synod of Glasgow 
 and Ayr. The stipend of the incumbent is about £"260 ; 
 the manse is a comfortable residence of modern erection, 
 and the glebe comprises seven acres and a half of profit- 
 able land, valued at £^0 per annum. The incumbent
 
 INCH 
 
 INCH 
 
 also receives the revenue arising from a piece of land 
 called Ladyacre, which, before the Reformation, was 
 given for the maintenance of an altar in the parish 
 church. Inchinnan church was a very ancient build- 
 ing, supposed to have been founded before the reign of 
 David I., who granted it with all its dependencies to the 
 Knights Templars, after whose suppression it was trans- 
 ferred to the Hospitallers, who had a commandery at 
 Torphichen, in the county of Linlithgow. The last of the 
 superiors, at the dissolution of monasteries, laying aside 
 his monastic office and title, purchased the lands that 
 had belonged to the establishment from the crown, and 
 was created Lord Torphichen. At later periods the pa- 
 tronage of the church of this place was held by the 
 Dukes of Lenno.\ and Montrose, from the latter of whom 
 it passed by purchase to the ancestor of Mr. Campbell of 
 Blythswood, in whom it is at present vested. The 
 present parish church was erected on the site of the 
 ancient structure, in 1829 ; it is a handsome edifice in 
 the pointed style, with a massive square tower. Inchin- 
 nan parochial school is under good regulation, and is 
 attended by about sixty scholars ; the master has a 
 salary of £34, with £24 fees, and a house and offices, a 
 spacious schoolroom and play-ground for the children, 
 and half an acre of garden. Agricultural chemistry is 
 taught in this school. There is a female school of in- 
 dustry, superintended by a mistress, who has a school- 
 room, house, and garden provided for her by the heritors, 
 and is supported partly by the fees, which are very mo- 
 derate, and principally by subscription. The parish has 
 also two Sabbath schools, and a parochial library con- 
 taining a good collection of religious and historical 
 works, to which all the parishioners have access on pay- 
 ment of a nominal subscription. The ancient palace of 
 Inchinnan, which was situated in the northern part of 
 the parish, overlooking the Clyde, was built by Matthew, 
 Earl of Lennox, at the commencement of the sixteenth 
 century : there are now no remains of it, the materials 
 having been used for various purposes ; and no memorial 
 is preserved except the site. Silver and copper coins of 
 the reigns of Henry IV. of France, and William and 
 Mary of England, were found among the ruins of the 
 old church, which was taken down in 1828. In the 
 churchyard are several tombs, with crosses of ditferent 
 character sculptured on the ridges of the covering 
 stone ; they are said to have been the tombs of Knights 
 Templars. Robert Law, author of the Memorials of 
 Scotland, was a native of the parish. 
 A INCHKEITH, an island, in the parish of King- 
 ' HORN, district of Kirkcaldy, county of Fife, 2^ miles 
 (S. S. E.) from Kinghorn ; containing 9 inhabitants. 
 This is a rocky isle, in the Firth of Forth, lying nearly 
 equidistant between Kinghorn and Leith. It derives 
 its name from the gallant Keith, who in 1010 greatly 
 signalised himself at the battle of Barrie, in Forfarshire, 
 against the Danes ; the island, with the barony of Keith, 
 being conferred upon him on that occasion, as a reward 
 for his valour, by Malcolm II. In the fourteenth century, 
 having fallen to the crown, it was bestowed, with the 
 lands of Kinghorn, on Lord Glammis ; and the Strath- 
 more family retained it until 1649, when it became the 
 property, by purchase, of Sir John Scott of Scotstarvit. 
 After passing subsequently into the hands of various 
 persons, it at length came to the Dukes of Buccleuch. 
 The isle is above a mile in length, of various breadth. 
 Vol. I.— 577 
 
 and of irregular surface : it has excellent pasturage for 
 cattle and sheep, and some patches of good arable land ; 
 with fine springs of water, collected by tubes into a tank 
 for the supply of vessels. On the south side is a small 
 quay ; and a lighthouse stands on an elevation of 180 
 feet above the sea, and is seen at the distance of eigh- 
 teen nautical miles. At the close of the fifteenth century, 
 Inchkeith was made a place of compulsory retirement 
 for persons labouring under a loathsome disease called 
 the " grandgore ". It was subsequently an important 
 military station, particularly during the regency of Mary 
 of Guise, and the reigns of the unfortunate Queen Mary, 
 and Charles I. 
 
 INCH-KENNETH, an isle, in the parish of Kilfin- X 
 iCHEN, county of Argyll. This isle lies in Loch-na- 
 Keal, about two miles east of Colonsay, on the western 
 coast of Mull, and twelve miles west-by-south from Aros. 
 It is a pleasant island, about a mile long and half a mile 
 broad, and having some good laud. In 17*3, Inch- 
 Kenneth was the retreat of Sir Allan Maclean, the chief 
 of his clan, who was here visited by Johnson and Bos- 
 well : his residence is now in ruins. Some vestiges of 
 a chapel mark the site of an ancient seminary of monks, 
 dependent on the abbey of lona. 
 
 INCH-LGNAIG, an isle, in the parish of Luss, / 
 county of Dumbarton. This islet is one of a nume- 
 rous group, beautifully situated in Loch Lomond, and 
 is about a mile long and a quarter of a mile broad, and 
 estimated to contain 145 acres, of which a number are 
 occupied by wood. It lies equidistant between Luss, on 
 one side of the lake, and the parish of Buchanan, on the 
 opposite shore ; and has been latterly appropriated as a 
 deer-park, by the Colquhoun family, whose handsome 
 seat of Rhoss-dhu is on the borders of the lake. The 
 isle is remarkable for the number and size of its fine old 
 yew-trees, which are of natural growth, and of which 
 bows and arrows were formerly made. 
 
 INCH-MARNOCK, an island, in the parish of /^ 
 Rothesay, and lying in the Firth of Clyde, 2 miles dis- 
 tant (W.) from the Isle of Bute. This island, which is 
 situated opposite to St. Ninian's Point in the bay of 
 that name, was anciently a settlement of Culdee monks. 
 It was subsequently granted by Roderick of Cantyre to 
 the monastery of Cantyre, about the year 1229, before 
 the erection of Rothesay into a parish ; and continued to 
 form a part of that establishment till the Reformation. 
 Inch-Marnock is two miles in length and half a mile in 
 breadth, and comprises 560 acres, of which 120 are 
 arable, and the remainder moorland and pasture. The 
 surface is pleasing ; and near the eastern shore are the 
 remains of a chapel dedicated to St. Marnock. 
 
 INCH-MICKERY, an isle, in the parish of Cra- 
 MOND, county of Edinburgh ; situated in the Firth of 
 Forth, near the isle and village of Cramond, and a little 
 to the east of Inchcolm. It is of very small extent, not 
 being more than a few furlongs in circumference ; and 
 is remarkable for a profusion of mosses, lichens, and long 
 tangling sea-weed. On its shores are noted oyster-beds. 
 
 INCH-MOAN, an isle, in the parish of Luss, county '^ 
 of Dumbarton. This isle, the name of which signifies 
 "the Moss Isle", lies in Loch Lomond j is about three- 
 quarters of a mile in length and a quarter of a mile in 
 breadth ; and contains about 100 acres, mostly covered 
 with moss, and supplying peat to the village of Luss and 
 its neighbourhood. 
 
 ^ 4E
 
 INCH 
 
 INCH 
 
 J INCH-MURRIN, the largest and most southern of 
 the islands of Loch Lomond. This island, according to 
 some accounts, is not included in any county, or paro- 
 chial division : by other accounts it is placed in Dum- 
 bartonshire. Its length is about two miles and its 
 breadth one ; it is finely wooded, and affords e.xcellent 
 pasture. The isle was the residence of the ancient Earls 
 of Lennox : and at the south end are the ruins of a 
 castle, surrounded by venerable oaks, in which the noble 
 family resided. It is now the property of the Duke of 
 Montrose, and is kept chiefly as a deer-park. In 1*93, 
 the late duke built a handsome hunting-seat and offices 
 here, at present occupied by the keeper, who cultivates 
 some ground around the house. The island is said to 
 have derived its name from St. Murriu, the tutelary saint 
 of Paisley. 
 fs INCH-TAVANACH, an isle, in the parish of Luss, 
 
 county of Dumbarton; one of the numerous islands 
 in Loch Lomond, and lying near the west margin of the 
 lake, between Ross-dhu and the village of Luss. The 
 name signifies "the Island of the Monk"; and the isle 
 appears to have been a place of retirement for some con- 
 templative hermit. This is the loftiest land in the loch, 
 and is chiefly composed of grey granite, with some rocks 
 of micaceous schistus, and quantities of quartz. Inch- 
 Tavanach is about three-quarters of a mile in length and 
 three furlongs in breadth, and is largely covered with 
 wood and heath, some out-field occasionally producing 
 good crops. A family resides upon it. 
 
 INCHTURE and ROSSIE, a parish, in the county 
 of Perth ; including the villages of Baledgarno and 
 Ballindean, and containing 765 inhabitants, of whom 
 243 are in the village of Inchture, 13 miles (E. by N.) 
 from Perth. The word Inchture is altogether of doubt- 
 ful derivation, but is conjectured to be formed from the 
 terms innis, " an island ", and ear, " the east ", the emi- 
 nence on which the church and village stand being the 
 most eastern of a series of elevations that are said to 
 have been formerly islands. The present parish com- 
 prehends the ancient parish of Rossie, which is now 
 extinct, though the ruin of the church still remains. It 
 is situated on the north-west side of the estuary of the 
 Tay, and measures in length four miles from north to 
 south, and three miles in breadth, comprising an area of 
 about 4650 acres, of which about 4000 are in tillage and 
 pasture, and the remainder in wood. Being mostly in- 
 cluded in the rich and fertile tract of the Carse of 
 Gowrie, usually considered as the " garden of Scotland ", 
 the parish shares in all the superiority of scenery, soil, 
 and produce for which that beautiful district is so 
 justly celebrated. The surface is considerably diversified. 
 On the south-east, where the lands are washed by the 
 estuary, are extensive sand-banks, which at ebb-tide are 
 seen stretching over several hundreds of acres, and which 
 are bordered inland with a broad margin of sedge or 
 reeds. This is succeeded by a rich alluvial plain, elevated 
 about twenty feet, extending the whole breadth of the 
 parish, and reaching north-westward for two or three 
 miles. At the extremity of this plain, again, is the emi- 
 nence ornamented with the pleasing village of Inchture ; 
 and still further towards the north-west appear in suc- 
 cession the hills of Rossie, Baledgarno, and Ballindean, 
 forming a portion of the district called the " braes of the 
 carse "; and the border of the Sidlaw range, rising about 
 500 feet high. The parish is watered by two principal 
 578 
 
 streams designated "pows", which are augmented by 
 numerous rivulets descending from the hills. One of 
 the two streams flows for a considerable distance along 
 the south-western boundary into the Firth at Powgavie, 
 where it forms the harbour of that name ; while the 
 other, towards the north, formed of the burns of Baled- 
 garno and Rossie, partly separates the parish from Long- 
 forgan, into which it afterwards runs, and where it 
 reaches the Firth. The estuary is about three miles 
 wide ; but at low water the tide recedes to a great dis- 
 tance from the shore, and the sands are marked by many 
 deep fissures, called " water-runs ", being channels for the 
 streams. The water of the Tay is strongly impregnated 
 with salt in consequence of the large influx from the sea 
 and the rapidity of the tide. 
 
 On the level grounds, which constitute by far the 
 larger portion of the parish, the soil is a rich alluvial 
 clay of great depth ; the undulations and hills comprise 
 loam, gravel, and sand, w'ith a little peat, resting gene- 
 rally on red sandstone or on whinstone. The whole is 
 highly cultivated, and presents one of the finest speci- 
 mens to be met with of agricultural skill. All kinds of 
 crops are raised : the rotation followed on about two- 
 thirds of the grounds is the seven-shift, and in the re- 
 mainder the six-shift course is followed. A large part 
 of the district in which the parish is situated being a 
 corn country, the rearing of cattle has hitherto been a 
 subordinate consideration ; but much more attention 
 is now paid to it than formerly ; and Leicester sheep, 
 and the Ayrshire and the Teeswater stock of cattle, have 
 been to some extent introduced, as well as an improved 
 breed of horses. Most of the farms have been thoroughly 
 drained ; the reclaiming of land overflowed by the tide 
 is carried on with spirit, and many embankments have 
 been raised. Though the inclosures at present are prin- 
 cipally in the upper portion of the parish, numerous 
 hedge-rows have been planted, and palings erected, on 
 the lower grounds ; and in general the farm-houses and 
 buildings are in good condition. In 183S a threshing- 
 mill driven by steam, the only one of the kind in the 
 parish, was erected on Lord Kinnaird's property at 
 Powgavie. The substratum of the lower parts consists 
 of red sandstone, and the hills of whinstone, of each of 
 which several quarries are in operation. There is lime- 
 stone, but not at present worked ; and the locality con- 
 tains several veins of copper, which, however, have never 
 been wrought : valuable pebbles also, and various mine- 
 rals, have occasionally been found. The plantations, with 
 the exception of the ornamental portions, are chiefly on 
 the hills ; they comprise oak, ash, elm, beech, birch, larch, 
 and other kinds. The annual value of real property in 
 the parish is £8011. 
 
 Rossie Priory, situated on the slope of Rossie hill, 
 and commanding most extensive and beautiful views, 
 was built chiefly by the late Lord Kinnaird, in 1807 ; it 
 is a very superior mansion, erected with stone from the 
 quarries on the estate, and has been much enlarged and 
 improved by the present noble proprietor, whose an- 
 cestor, in the twelfth century, obtained a grant of the 
 lands here from William the Lion. The only other 
 mansion is a modern edifice named Ballindean House, 
 situated near the foot of the hiU of the same name. The 
 village of Inchture is famed for its excellent beer ; and 
 from its brewery large supplies are sent weekly to Perth, 
 Dundee, Cupar-Angus, and all parts of the surrounding
 
 IN N E 
 
 I NN E 
 
 district. Besides Inchture the parish contains the vil- 
 lages of Baledgarno and Ballindean. The former of 
 these is supposed to have been so called from Edgar, 
 who came to the throne at the beginning of the eleventh 
 century, and whose name is contained in the two middle 
 syllables : his castle was on an adjoining hill, still called 
 Castle hill, but no remains of the building are now visible. 
 There are also several hamlets in the parish. The manu- 
 facture of linen is carried on in private houses ; the 
 article produced is a very coarse fabric for sacks or 
 packing. The population, however, are almost all agri- 
 cultural, and have somewhat diminished in number 
 within the last few years, in consequence of the con- 
 solidation of some of the smaller farms. There is a 
 general post-office established at Inchture, and both the 
 railway and the high road between Perth and Dundee 
 pass through the parish. Powgavie or Polgavie harbour 
 forms the chief point of traffic : a considerable number 
 of vessels come laden with coal, lime, manure, seeds, and 
 grain, and carry away farm-produce, especially corn and 
 potatoes, wood, fruits, &c. In 1 847 an act of parliament 
 was passed for the construction of a branch of three- 
 quarters of a mile, from the Perth and Dundee railway, 
 to Powgavie ; and of a branch of one mile and three- 
 quarters, to Inchture. Ecclesiastically the parish is in 
 the presbytery of Dundee, synod of Angus and Mearns, 
 and in the patronage of the Crown : the minister's 
 stipend is about £'200, with a manse, and a glebe of ten 
 acres, valued at £30 per annum. Inchture church, con- 
 veniently situated in the middle of the principal village, 
 was built in 1835, of red sandstone from a quarry in 
 the vicinity. The parochial school affords instruction in 
 the usual branches ; the master has a salary of £34, with 
 a dwelhng-house, and £27 fees. On the borders of the 
 parish is a large stone, supposed by some to be that on 
 which the falcon alighted when, according to tradition, 
 boundaries were assigned to the lands given to the gallant 
 Hay and his two sons, after the celebrated battle of Lun- 
 carty. Other antiquities are, the ruins of the castle of 
 Moncur, the cross formerly surrounded by the village of 
 Rossie, and the interesting remains of the old church of 
 that name, now overgrown with ivy and ash. 
 
 INISHAIL, county of Argyll. — See Glenorchy. 
 INNERKIP, a parish, in the Lower ward of the 
 county of Renfrew ; including the village of Gourock, 
 and containing 3420 inhabitants, of whom 431 are in 
 the village of Innerkip, 6 miles (S. W. by \V.) from 
 Greenock. This parish, the name of which, originally 
 Inverkip, is derived from its situation at the mouth of 
 the river Kip, formerly included the parish of Greenock, 
 which was separated from it by charter, obtained by Sir 
 John Shaw of Wester Greenock in 1 589, and ratified by 
 parliament in 1594. The parish is about seven miles in 
 length and si.\ in breadth, and is bounded on the north 
 and west by the Firth of Clyde, on the east by the parish 
 of Greenock, and on the south by the parish of Largs 
 in the county of Ayr. Its coast is indented with several 
 bays, the principal of which are Gourock on the north, 
 and Lunderston, Innerkip, and Wemyss, on the west. 
 The surface has a gradual ascent from the shore towards 
 the south-east, and is beautifully diversified with level 
 plains and gentle undulations, and intersected by small 
 rivulets, flowing in some parts through verdant meadows, 
 and in others disappearing in thickly-wooded glens. The 
 principal rivers are the Kip and the DafF, which latter 
 579 
 
 forms a confluence with the Kip near its influx into the 
 bay of Innerkip. Along the shore the soil is light and 
 sandy, in the higher grounds of heavier quality, but 
 much intermixed with gravel. The whole number of 
 acres has not been ascertained : more than half the parish 
 is moorland, of which a considerable part is undivided 
 common ; there is a large extent of natural meadow 
 and pasture, and but a small proportion is arable. The 
 farmers rely more upon the produce of the dairy, for 
 which they find profitable markets, than on the cultiva- 
 tion of the soil. Considerable improvement has, not- 
 withstanding, been made in the system of agriculture ; 
 furrow-draining has been adopted with success, and 
 some small portions of waste land have been reclaimed. 
 The rocks are principally of the old red sandstone for- 
 mation, and towards Wemyss bay are intersected with 
 trap : in the upper part of the parish, sandstone of fine 
 quality has been extensively quarried for building. The 
 annual value of real property in Innerkip is £14,205. 
 
 The scenery throughout is pleasingly diversified ; and 
 the higher grounds embrace extensive and interesting 
 prospects. Ardgowan House, the seat of Sir Michael 
 Robert Shaw Stewart, is an elegant mansion, beautifully 
 situated on the shore near Innerkip bay, embosomed in 
 thriving plantations, and commanding a fine view over 
 the Firth of Clyde. Kelly, the seat of the family of 
 Wallace, is also a handsome mansion, on the shore of 
 Wemyss bay, and embellished with plantations. There 
 are several other good houses belonging to different 
 proprietors. The village is pleasantly situated on the 
 banks of the river Kip, near its influx into the Clyde ; it 
 is chiefly inhabited by fishermen, and is much frequented 
 during the season for sea-bathing. There are some 
 well-furnished houses for the accommodation of visiters ; 
 and a post-office, subordinate to that of Greenock, has 
 been established here. Facility of communication is 
 afforded by an excellent turnpike-road from Greenock. 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of the 
 presbytery of Greenock, synod of Glasgow and Ayr. 
 The minister's stipend is £278. 14. 6., with a manse, 
 and a glebe of four acres ; patron, Sir Michael Robert 
 Shaw Stewart. Innerkip parish church is a neat modern 
 structure, containing sufficient accommodation for the 
 population. A church has been erected in the district 
 of Gourock, of which an account will be found under 
 the head of Gourock. The parochial school is well at- 
 tended ; the master has a salary of £30. 15., but no 
 house, and the fees average £26 per annum. On the 
 lands of Ardgowan are some remains of the ancient 
 mansion-house, consisting of a venerable tower; and 
 over the Dunrod rivulet is a very antique bridge. Nearly 
 opposite to the Cloch lighthouse, the Comet steam-boat 
 was run down by the Ayr steam-packet, about five and 
 twenty years ago, in the night, when upwards of fifty 
 persons found a watery grave. 
 
 INNERLEITHEN, a parish, chiefly in the county 
 of Peebles, and partly in the county of Selkirk, 6| 
 miles (E. S. E.) from Peebles; containing 931 inhabit- 
 ants, of whom 463 are in the village, and 468 in the 
 rural districts of the parish. This place, properly Inver- 
 leithen, derives its name from one of the numerous 
 streams that flow through the lands into the river Tweed. 
 The parish comprises about 30,000 acres, whereof 2000 
 are arable, 500 woodland and plantations, 30 in brush- 
 wood, and the remainder, of which probably 1500 might 
 
 4E2
 
 I N N E 
 
 INNE 
 
 be brought into profitable cultivation, hilly pasture. Its 
 form is that of a triaugle, the longest side extending 
 along the river Tweed, and the two other sides meeting 
 in the ridge of mountains called the Moorfoot hills. 
 Along the shore of the Tweed the surface spreads into a 
 rich and fertile plain, and in other parts is intersected 
 with numerous deep glens, watered by running streams : 
 of these glens the most spacious is that through which 
 the Leithen flows, which contains a considerable portion 
 of level meadow^ land. There are many springs in the 
 parish, and some of them possess highly medicinal pro- 
 perties ; the principal is that issuing from the base of a 
 hill near the village, which from that circumstance has 
 obtained its rapid increase. The scenery is strikingly 
 varied, and in parts very picturesque. From the farm 
 of Purves Hill, which has a considerable elevation, is a 
 descent towards the river, by a continued succession of 
 terraces, about 200 yards in length and eighteen feet 
 broad, divided into several series by unequal intervals 
 of level ground. These terraces, as seen from the lands 
 below, form a singular feature in the landscape ; and 
 some timber of mature growth, and various thriving 
 plantations on some of the lands in the parish, add much 
 to the beautj' of the scenery. 
 
 Near the river the soil is rich and fertile, but in the 
 higher grounds of inferior quality, abounding with heath 
 and moss. The crops are wheat, barley, oats, peas, and 
 turnips : the system of husbandry is advanced ; the 
 farm-buildings are substantial and commodious, and the 
 lands are well inclosed. About 400 head of cattle are 
 kept in the parish, and much attention has been paid to 
 the improvement of the breed, originally the old Tweed- 
 dale, by the introduction of the Alderney and the North- 
 umberland : about 16,000 sheep, also, are pastured here, 
 which are chiefly of the black-faced and Cheviot breeds. 
 Few horses are reared, except for purposes of agricul- 
 ture. The woods consist of oak, ash, elm, hazel, and 
 birch ; and the plantations, of larch and other firs, inter- 
 mixed with the usual hard-woods. The substrata are grey- 
 ■wacke, greywacke-slate, clay-slate, and porphyry of red 
 and grey colour, the last of which abounds with crystals 
 of felspar. Slate has been quarried in several parts ; 
 and a quarry at Hollylee, which was long abandoned, 
 has again been opened by the proprietor, and the produce 
 used for paving the halls of his mansion. The annual 
 value of real pro[)erty in the parish is £7072, of which 
 £S1S are returned for the Selkirkshire portion. The 
 chief houses are Glen-Orraiston and Hollylee, which are 
 both spacious and handsome structures, finely situated, 
 and embellished with thriving plantations : that of Glen- 
 Ormiston was purchased with the beautiful estate, in 
 1849, by the well-known Mr. William Chambers, of 
 Edinburgh. 
 
 The village, as already stated, is indebted for its in- 
 crease to the mineral water of Innerleithen. It is neatly 
 built ; and several good houses have been erected for the 
 accommodation of the numerous visiters who, during 
 the summer, take up their residence here for the benefit 
 of the water, which is found efficacious in various com- 
 plaints. On being analysed the water is found to con- 
 tain, in one imperial quart, 5'3 grains of carbonate of 
 magnesia, 9'5 grains of muriate of lime, and 21 '2 grains 
 of muriate of soda. The spring issues from a mountain 
 composed of greywacke, clay-slate, and red porphyry ; 
 and there is a second spring, which varies a little in the 
 5«0 
 
 proportions of its ingredients, containing 10'12 grains 
 of carbonate of magnesia, 19'4 of muriate of lime, and 
 3r of muriate of soda. A handsome building has been 
 erected, with a viranda in front, for the use of the visi- 
 ters 5 and the village is growing into some repute as a 
 watering-place. A club has been formed for the pro- 
 motion of gymnastic exercises, under the patronage of 
 several noblemen and gentlemen of the district; and is 
 supported with much spirit. The woollen manufacture 
 was introduced here about fifty or sixty years since, by 
 Mr. Brodie of Traquair, who erected a large factory for 
 that purpose, which, after his decease, was let to several 
 tenants, by whom the various departments of the trade 
 are still carried on, giving employment to fifty persons. 
 Facility of intercourse with Peebles, the nearest market- 
 town, and with the other towns in the district, is afforded 
 by good roads, of which the turnpike-road from Kelso 
 to Glasgow passes for nearly ten miles along the shores 
 of the Tweed. Ecclesiastically the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Peebles, synod of Lothian 
 and Tweeddale ; patron, John Booth, Esq. The stipend 
 of the incumbent is about £2.50 ; the manse is a com- 
 fortable residence, and the glebe comprises twelve acres, 
 valued at £20 per annum. Innerleithen church, built in 
 17S6, is a neat substantial edifice, convenientlj' situated, 
 and adapted for a congregation of 350 persons. The 
 members of the Free Church have a place of worship. 
 The parochial school is well attended ; the master has a 
 salary of £34 per annum, with a house and garden, and 
 the fees average about £40 per annum. There is a 
 friendly society, which is well supported, and has contri- 
 buted materially to diminish the number of applications 
 for parochial relief. 
 
 INNERLEVEN, in the county of Fife.— See Dub- 
 
 BIESIDE. 
 
 INNERWICK, a parish, in the county of Hadding- 
 ton, 4 miles (S. E. by S.) from Dunbar ; containing, 
 with the hamlet of Skateraw, and village of Thornton- 
 loch, 961 inhabitants, of whom 144 are in the village of 
 Innerwick. This place, the name of which is descriptive 
 of its relative position, was granted by David I. to Walter 
 Stewart, to whom the gift was confirmed by Malcolm IV. 
 in 1157 ; and it remained in the possession of his de- 
 scendants till the reign of Charles II. It afterwards 
 passed to the Hamiltons, and ultimately to Sir Peter 
 W^edderburn of Gosford, ancestor of the present pro- 
 prietor. The parish, which is about ten miles in length, 
 and varies from two to three miles in breadth, is bounded 
 on the north-east by the German Ocean, and comprises 
 11,725 acres, whereof 5040 are arable, 6300 meadow and 
 pasture, and 378 woodland and plantations. Its surface 
 is varied with fertile vales and deep dells, and, from the 
 shore, rises gently towards the Lammermoor hills : the 
 coast, which extends for about two miles, is rocky, but 
 marked with few features of grandeur. The scenery is 
 pleasing, and in some places enriched with wood : that 
 part of the parish bordering upon the hills is character- 
 ized by picturesque beauty. There are two small streams, 
 one of which, called the Monynut, rises nearly in the 
 centre of the parish, and taking a south-eastern course, 
 falls into the Whitadder at Abbey St. Bathan's in the 
 county of Berwick. The other, called the Thornton 
 water, rises also near the centre of the parish, and flow- 
 ing in a direction from south to north, falls into the sea 
 near the village of Thorntonloch.
 
 I N N E 
 
 I NSC 
 
 In general the soil is fertile, consisting of a deep rich 
 loam ; and the crops are oats, wheat, barley, peas, beans, 
 potatoes, and turnips. The system of agriculture is in 
 a very advanced state ; the course of husbandry on the 
 lighter soils is a five, and on the heavier a six, shift 
 course. Lime and bone-dust are the principal manures. 
 The farm-houses and offices are substantial and well 
 arranged ; and the lands are partly inclosed with stone, 
 and partly with hedges of thorn, all of which are kept 
 in good order : most of the farms are furnished with 
 threshing- mills, some of them driven by steam, others by 
 water. Much attention is paid to the rearing of live stock, 
 for which the extent of natural pasture affords abundant 
 opportunity. About 5000 sheep are fed in the hilly dis- 
 trict, and a large number, also, are pastured on the 
 lower lands : the former are chiefly of the Cheviot and 
 black-faced breeds, with occasionally a cross between the 
 two ; the latter are the Leicestershire. Very few black- 
 cattle are reared ; but a considerable number are pur- 
 chased and fattened for the markets. The annual value 
 of real property in the parish is £10,384. The woods are 
 mostly oak, and the plantations fir : some of the trees 
 are of very ancient growth ; and from the names of 
 several places, it would appear that the lands were at one 
 time covered with extensive woods. Of the higher por- 
 tion of the parish the substrata are grey wacke, greywacke 
 slate, and red sandstone intersected with veins of trap 
 rock ; and of the lower, limestone, ironstone, bituminous 
 shale, and indications of coal, which last appears to have 
 been formerly worked. The limestone, which is of ex- 
 cellent quality, is quarried at the Skateraw shore, where 
 is also a kiln for burning it into lime for agricultural use. 
 Great quantities of limestone used to be sent from the 
 quarries to the Devon iron-works ; at present, the stone 
 is burnt here, and then sent chiefly to Berwickshire. 
 Freestone of good quality for building is also found 
 in the parish, and is worked as occasion requires. A 
 small harbour was constructed on the Skateraw shore, 
 some years since, for the exportation of the produce of 
 the quarries, and for the importation of coal ; and 
 belonging to it are two boats employed in the fishery 
 off the coast, where haddock, mackarel, lobsters, and 
 other fish are taken. The village of Innerwick is situ- 
 ated about a mile from the London turnpike-road ; it 
 consists of irregularly built and detached houses, on the 
 base of a steep but richly cultivated hill. The inhabit- 
 ants are chiefly employed in agriculture, and in the 
 trades requisite for the supply of the parish. The North- 
 British railway and the London road intersect the lower 
 part of the parish, and other facilities of intercourse are 
 afforded by roads kept in repair by statute labour. 
 
 Innerwick church, together with its revenues, was 
 granted by Walter Stewart to the abbey of Paisley, 
 which gift was confirmed by Malcolm IV. in the twelfth 
 century ; it of course ceased to belong to the monks at 
 the Reformation, and in I670 the great and small tithes 
 were bestowed on Sir Patrick Wedderburn. The parish 
 is now in the presbytery of Dunbar, synod of Lothian 
 and Tweeddale, and in the patronage of Mrs. Hamilton 
 Nisbet Ferguson; the minister's stipend is £'^77- 19., 
 with a manse, and a glebe valued at £15 per annum. 
 The church, situated on an eminence, in the village of 
 Innerwick, is a neat plain edifice, erected in 1784. The 
 members of the Free Church have a place of worship. 
 Innerwick parochial school, also situated in the village, 
 581 
 
 is well attended; the master has a salary of £31, with 
 £33 fees, and a house and garden. There is a parochial 
 library in the village ; and at Thorntonloch, a small 
 itinerating library. The poor are partly supported by 
 the interest of £800 vested in securities. There are 
 some remains of the ancient castle of Innerwick, formerly 
 the baronial residence of the Stewarts, and afterwards of 
 the Hamiltons. In 1403, when occupied by an English 
 garrison, it was assaulted and taken by the Regent, the 
 Duke of Albany ; and, together with Thornton Castle, 
 which stood on the opposite bank of the glen, it was 
 attacked by the Protector Somerset, on his invasion of 
 Scotland. The remains are now very slight, and are 
 rapidly disappearing. At a short distance from the 
 castle are some small remains of Edinkens Bridge, the 
 origin of which is involved in obscurity : near it were 
 four large stones, apparently indicating the tomb of some 
 distinguished person, supposed to have been Edwin of 
 Northumbria, who took refuge with Malcolm III. from 
 the tyranny of William the Conqueror. Several stone 
 coffins have been found in the parish, in two of which 
 were a ring and part of a sword ; and near the village is 
 a field called Corsikill Park, in which tradition records 
 a conflict to have taken place between Cospatrick and 
 William Wallace. On the Skateraw shore was an ancient 
 chapel dedicated to St. Dennys, the remains of which 
 have within the last few years been completely destroyed 
 by encroachments of the sea. 
 
 INNISKENNETH.— See Inch-Kenneth, and Kil- 
 
 FINICHEN. 
 
 INSCH, a parish, in the district of Garioch, county 
 of Aberdeen, 3f miles (W.) from the village of Old 
 Rain; containing 1379 inhabitants. The name Insch is 
 thought to be of Celtic derivation, and to signify " an 
 island" : the reason of its application is doubtful, but 
 the site of the village appears to have been formerly sur- 
 rounded by water. The parish is situated on the northern 
 bank of the small river Shevock, which separates it from 
 the parishes of Premnay and Kinnethmont, and running 
 eastward, falls at length into the Urie. The lands 
 measure six miles in length and three miles in breadth, 
 comprising 76I8 acres, of which 5410 are under cultiva- 
 tion, 108 in plantation, and the remainder waste. The 
 surface is varied by several interesting elevations. That 
 of the hill of Foudland is the most lofty, forming the 
 chief of a series of slate hills stretching into Gartly on 
 the west, and into Culsamond on the east ; it rises 1 100 
 feet above the level of the sea, and commands extensive 
 and beautiful prospects, especially of the rich and fertile 
 vale of the Garioch. The hill of Dunnideer, however, 
 about a mile west of the village, though only half the 
 height of the former, is by far the most striking object 
 in the scenery, not only on account of its isolated situa- 
 tion, and its ample base, measuring 3000 yards in cir- 
 cumference, but especially from its abrupt and almost 
 perpendicular ascent, and its conical form. Its summit, 
 somewhat flattened, attracts the antiquary by the curious 
 ruins to be seen on it, and the tourist by its picturesque 
 beauty. Opposite to Dunnideer, on the west, is the 
 equally abrupt eminence of Christ-kirk, in the parish of 
 Kinnethmont, which is separated from Dunnideer only 
 by a narrow valley, watered by the Shevock. 
 
 The SOIL, in general is a light loam, upon a gravelly 
 or clayey subsoil : on the sides of the hill of Foud- 
 land it is a clay, mixed with slaty earth ; and in this
 
 I NSC 
 
 I N VE 
 
 and various other parts are peat mosses, supplying fuel. 
 Most of these, however, have become nearly exhausted, 
 so that wood and coal are now much used, the latter 
 brought from Aberdeen by canal to Inverury. Much of 
 the arable land is of superior quality, and produces ex- 
 cellent crops, chiefly of oats. The cattle are of the 
 Aberdeen or the Angus kind, which are frequently 
 crossed with the short-horned or Durham breed ; and 
 the improvement in the stock has been considerable, in 
 consequence of the great encouragement offered by the 
 cattle-shows held by the Highland and the local agricul- 
 tural societies. A six years' rotation is prevalent ; and 
 the general system of husbandry includes all the modern 
 improvements : bone-manure is liberally and successfully 
 applied to the turnip lands ; and threshing machines, 
 generally driven by water, one of them by steam, are 
 every where in operation. The chief deficiency is the 
 want of inclosures and of good farm-buildings. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £5334. 
 J. M. Lesly, Esq., of Balquhain, holds the estates called 
 the Barony of Meikle-Wardhouse, Knockenbaird, and 
 others. The slate of the Foudland hill quarries, an ex- 
 cellent material of blue colour, has long been highly 
 celebrated, and wrought to a great extent. About 
 900,000 slates used to be annually raised, a large por- 
 tion of which were sent to Aberdeen ; but not more 
 than half this number are now produced, the demand 
 having diminished on account of the facility with which 
 the Easdale slates, from Argyllshire, can be conveyed by 
 sea. In the smaller hills the rock is principally gneiss, 
 ■with black or grey granite ; and on the low grounds, near 
 the base of Duunideer, considerable quantities of bog- 
 iron ore have been found. The only gentleman's seat is 
 Rothney, a handsome modern mansion in the cottage 
 style, finely situated on a gentle acclivity on the northern 
 bank of the Shevock ; it is beautifully ornamented with 
 wood, and the approach to it from the village is parti- 
 cularly admired. 
 
 The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in agriculture, and 
 in trading in corn and cattle ; a few are employed in 
 making stockings for the Aberdeen manufacturers. The 
 feuars of Insch are heritable proprietors of their houses 
 and small gardens ; they also mostly rent about four 
 acres of ground each, under Sir Andrew Leith Hay, 
 superior of the ancient burgh of Insch, to which it is 
 supposed the power of "pot and gallows" was formerly 
 attached, there being a mound near the village called 
 the Gallow hill. Within the last thirty years, the 
 village has been almost entirely rebuilt ; the houses are 
 generally of two stories, constructed of stone and lime, 
 and there are several good shops. It has been some 
 years supplied with gas. The Aberdeen mail-road passes 
 through the parish, and is of considerable service, the pro- 
 duce of the district being conveyed along it to the canal 
 at Inverury, from which place the carts bring back 
 coal, lime, and bones for manure. Two fairs for cattle, 
 horses, and general wares, are held respectively on the 
 third Wednesday in May and third Tuesday in October 
 (both O. S.) ; and there are feeing-markets on the Fridays 
 before the 18th May and 18th November. The weekly 
 market, held on Friday, has been discontinued. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 
 Garioch, synod of Aberdeen, and in the patronage of Sir 
 
 John Forbes, Bart. The minister's stipend is about £'200, 
 
 with a manse, a glebe of twelve acres, valued at £15 per 
 
 582 
 
 annum, and a right to fuel, which has been commuted 
 for an annual payment of £9. 8. 10. Insch church, a 
 plain building in the village, is supposed, from a date on 
 its fine old belfry, to have been built in the year 1613 ; 
 it was well roofed in 1*89, new-seated in 1793, and con- 
 tains 460 sittings, of which si.xty are under the control 
 of the Kirk Session, and are let on very low terms for 
 the benefit of the poor. The members of the Free 
 Church have a place of worship. The parochial school 
 affords instruction in Greek and Latin, English gram- 
 mar, geography, mathematics, &c. : the master has a 
 salary of £27, with a house and garden, and about £15 
 fees ; he also participates in the benefit of the Dick 
 bequest. There is likewise a school supported by the 
 General Assembly ; the master receives a salary of £25, 
 with £14 fees, and has a house, garden, and three acres of 
 ground. The same branches are taught in this school 
 as in the parochial school ; and its situation among the 
 glens of Foudland, convenient not only for part of Insch, 
 but for parts of the parishes of Forgue, Drumblade, and 
 Gartly, far removed from their respective parochial 
 schools, renders it a source of much advantage. A 
 savings' bank has also existed some years : the deposits 
 are upwards of £'2700. The relics of antiquity com- 
 prise several Druidical remains on eminences, and stone 
 pillars, and obelisks ; but the principal relic is the cele- 
 brated vitrified fort on the hill of Dunnideer. It con- 
 sists of an outwork in the shape of a parallelogram, in- 
 closing an old ruin of a tower ; and the stones, which 
 are of granite, have been cemented by that singular 
 process seen in similar antiquities in the country, but of 
 the precise character of which many opinions exist. The 
 castle in the interior, constructed apparently of the 
 materials of the vitrified fort, is supposed by some to 
 have been built by King Gregory. 
 
 INSH, for a time a quoad sacra parish, formed of part 
 of the parish of Kingussie, and a small part of that of 
 Alvie, in the county of Inverness ; containing 613 in- 
 habitants, of whom 88 are in the village of Insh, 7 miles 
 (N. E.) from Pitmain. This place was anciently a vicar- 
 age, united to the rectory of Kingussie ; aad under act 
 of the General Assembly in 1S33, it was again declared 
 a distinct parish, ecclesiastically, which privilege, how- 
 ever, it afterwards ceased to possess. It is situated on 
 the south bank of the Spey ; and when the river swells, 
 a branch of it flows on each side of a small hill whereon 
 the church stands : hence the name of Insh, signifying 
 " an island". The Spey passes here through a fine lake 
 called Loch Insh, about a mile and a half in length and 
 nearly the same in breadth ; and near its eastern margin 
 is the mansion-house of Invereshie, where is a ferry across 
 the Spey. Ecclesiastically Insh is in the presbytery 
 of Abernethy and synod of Moray, and the patronage is 
 vested in the Crown : the stipend of the minister is 
 £1'20, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £2. 10. per 
 annum. The church is dedicated to St. Ewan. A school, 
 situated at the village of Insh, is supported by the 
 Education committee of the General Assembly. A con- 
 siderable increase in the population of this district took 
 place within the decennial period between the late and 
 the preceding census. 
 
 INVER, {I village, in the parish of Little Dun- 
 KELD, county of Perth, ^ a mile (W. S. W.) from Dun- 
 keld ; containing 106 inhabitants. This is a small 
 place, situated at the confluence of the rivers Tay and
 
 I N VE 
 
 I N V E 
 
 Bran, and on the great Highland road from Perth to 
 Inverness. Before the bridge of Dunkeld was built, 
 here was a ferry across the Tay. The celebrated com- 
 poser of Scotch reels, Neil Gow, was a native of the vil- 
 lage. — See Dunkeld, Little. 
 
 INVER, a village, in the parish of Tain, county of 
 Ross and Cromarty, 4^ miles (E. by N.) from Tain ; 
 containing 21 1 inhabitants. This village is situated at 
 the eastern extremity of the parish, on the shore of 
 Dornoch Firth ; and is inhabited chiefly by persons 
 employed in the fishery, for which it forms the princi- 
 pal station. The fish taken here are haddock, floun- 
 ders, cod, whiting, and skate, which are found in great 
 abundance, for the supply of the adjacent district ; and 
 during the season, herrings are also plentiful. A school 
 for the instruction of the children of the fishermen, who 
 speak chiefly the Gaelic language, is supported in the 
 village by the Society for Propagating Christian Know- 
 ledge. 
 
 INVERALLOCHY, a village, in the parish of Ra- 
 THEN, district of Deer, county of Aberdeen, 4 miles 
 (E. S. E.) from Fraserburgh ; containing 507 inhabit- 
 ants. This village is situated on the north-eastern shore 
 of the parish, a short distance eastward from Cairnbulg 
 Point, and nearly adjoining the fishing-town of Cairnbulg. 
 The male population consists chiefly of fishermen, who 
 with their families remove in the summer season to 
 Fraserburgh, where they assist in the herring-fishery of 
 that place. On the shore here is an abundance of sea- 
 weed, which is largely used in manuring the neighbour- 
 ing lands. Until of late, kelp was manufactured to some 
 extent ; the reduced value of the article, however, has 
 led almost to the abandonment of its manufacture. The 
 castle of Inverallochy, now in ruins, appears to have 
 been a place of considerable strength ; it was anciently 
 the property of the Cumyns, Earls of Buchan. There is 
 a place of worship for members of the Free Church. 
 
 INVERARITY, a parish, in the county of Forfar, 
 4^ miles (S.) from Forfar ; containing 997 inhabitants. 
 This place derived its name from a Celtic term descrip- 
 tive of the locality of its church, which, till the year 
 1754, was situated near the spot where the river Arity is 
 joined, almost at right angles, by the Corbie burn, at a 
 small distance from the present house of Fothringham. 
 The parish comprehends the ancient parish of Meathie ; 
 it measures three miles square, and contains about 6000 
 acres. On the north it is bounded by the parish of 
 Forfar, on the south by the parishes of Monikie and 
 Murroes, on the east by Guthrie and Dunnichen, and 
 on the west by Kinnettles, Tealing, and Glammis. The 
 surface is uneven, consisting of a valley, well cultivated 
 and fenced, surrounded by rising grounds and hills of 
 various elevation, some of which are richly wooded. 
 The soil on the higher lands is a dark loam ; in several 
 places it is alluvial ; its ordinary character, however, is 
 that of clay. About 4000 acres are cultivated; 1000 
 are waste, consisting of coarse pasture and moor ; and 
 the remainder are occupied by plantations, composed of 
 oak, beech, plane, and all the firs usually grown in the 
 country. The value of the produce is considerable; grain 
 of every kind forms a prominent article, and all the 
 various green crops are also raised, of good quality. 
 The common breed of cattle is the Angus or native 
 black, to which great attention is paid. The best sys- 
 tem of agriculture is followed ; and extensive drainage, 
 583 
 
 the inclosing with hedges or stone-dykes, and marl-ma- 
 nuring, with various other improvements in husbandry, 
 have been carried on to such an extent that very little 
 remains to be done. In this parish the prevailing rocks 
 are sandstone and grey slate, several quarries of which 
 are extensively wrought. The mansions are those of 
 Fothringham, the seat of the ancient family of that 
 name, and the House of Kincaldrum. Four miles of the 
 turnpike-road from Forfar to Dundee pass through the 
 parish ; and before the introduction of railways a coach 
 from Aberdeen to Edinburgh, and another from Brechin 
 to Dundee, used to travel daily upon it. The annual va- 
 lue of the real property in the parish is £5593. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of 
 Forfar and synod of Angus and Mearns ; patrons, the 
 family of Fothringham, of Powrie. The stipend of the 
 minister is about £300, with a good manse, and a glebe 
 of twelve acres. Inverarity church, in the centre of the 
 parish, was built in 1754, is in good repair, and will ac- 
 commodate 600 persons with sittings. There is a paro- 
 chial school, in which Latin is taught, with the usual 
 branches of education ; the master has the maximum 
 salary, and fees to the annual amount of about £27. 
 The chief relic of antiquity is the Roman camp called 
 " Haer Faads", part of which lies in the parish of Guth- 
 rie ; it is nearly a parallelogram, measuring about 300 
 yards by 700. At the Kirk Brae, near the dene of 
 Fothringham, is the last vestige of the old church. 
 James Webster, the traveller in Egypt, &c., whose post- 
 humous works have been published ; Drummond, the 
 botanist, who died some time since ; and the mother of 
 the distinguished Professor Playfair, were natives of the 
 parish. 
 
 INVERARY, or Inver- 
 aray, a royal burgh, the 
 county town, and a parish, 
 in the district and county of 
 Argyll, 60 miles (N. W. by 
 W.) from Glasgow, and 114 
 (W. N. W.) from Edinburgh ; 
 containing 2285 inhabitants, 
 of whom 1233 are in the 
 burgh. This place takes its 
 name from its situation at 
 the mouth of the river Aray, 
 which here falls into Loch 
 Fine or Fyne. It appears to have been, if any thing, 
 only an inconsiderable hamlet consisting of a few fisher- 
 men's huts, prior to the fourteenth century, when the 
 Campbell family, selecting it as their principal residence, 
 erected a baronial castle, around which the original town 
 gradually arose. In 1745, Archibald, third Duke of 
 Argyll, commenced the erection of the present magni- 
 ficent castle, which, after a short interruption during 
 the time of the rebellion, was completed at an expense 
 of nearly £300,000, when the ancient castle was taken 
 down. In 1748, the duke introduced the linen manu- 
 facture, which was carried on for some time with con- 
 siderable benefit to the inhabitants; and in 17*6, John, 
 the fifth duke, established a woollen manufacture at the 
 Water of Douglas. For this purpose he built premises, 
 erected machinery, and provided every requisite, at his 
 own expense ; giving the farm on which the factory w.is 
 built, and the factory itself, at a low rent, to a person 
 who carried on the manufacture for a time with tolerable 
 
 Burgh Seal.
 
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 success. His grace also pulled down the houses nearly 
 contiguous to the castle, and built others of superior 
 character, on grounds which he gave to the inhabitants 
 at a nominal rent. 
 
 The TOWN is beautifully situated on the western shore 
 of Loch Fine, and to the south of the pleasure-grounds 
 of the castle, of which it commands an interesting view. 
 The houses are substantially built, and of handsome ap- 
 pearance ; the streets are clean, and lighted with gas, 
 and the inhabitants are amply supplied with water. The 
 principal trade carried on here is the herring-fishery : 
 the season commences generally about the end of June, 
 and continues till the beginning of January ; and during 
 the interval, the fishermen are many of them employed 
 in agriculture. The number of boats engaged in the 
 herring-fishery of Loch Fine is about .500, employing on 
 an average three men and a boy each; and nearly 160 
 persons are occupied in curing and packing the fish, of 
 which about '20,000 barrels are annually exported. In- 
 verary harbour is not adapted for vessels of any consi- 
 derable burthen ; and previously to 1S09 the quay was 
 in a very bad state ; but a good pier has since been con- 
 structed, which in 1836 was extended at an expense of 
 £V100, whereof £S00 were contributed by the Fishery 
 Board, and the remainder by the then Duke of Argyll 
 and the corporation of the town. The post-ofRce has a 
 daily delivery of letters. A ferry to the opposite shore 
 of Loch Fine is kept up by the corporation ; and great fa- 
 cilities of communication are afforded by steamers. The 
 market is well supplied with provisions ; and fairs are 
 held annually on the 17th of May and I6th of Septem- 
 ber, for cattle, and on the 15th of July, for wool. 
 
 The first notice of the place occurs in a charter granted 
 to Colin, first Earl of Argyll, erecting the town into a 
 burgh of barony ; and it was subsequently made a royal 
 BURGH by charter of Charles I. while a prisoner in Caris- 
 brooke Castle, vesting the government in a provost, four 
 bailies, and a council. Since the passing of the Munici- 
 pal Reform act, hosvever, the corporation has consisted 
 of a provost, two bailies, and sixteen councillors. The 
 magistrates exercise both civil and criminal jurisdiction 
 over the chartered boundary of the burgh, with the ex- 
 ception of the castle and park of Inverary ; but the for- 
 mer kind of jurisdiction has been almost superseded by 
 the sheriff's small-debt court, and the latter is limited 
 to petty riots and assaults. This burgh is associated 
 with Oban, Campbelltown, Rothesay, Irvine, and Ayr, in 
 returning a member to the imperial parliament. The 
 number of £10 householders within the parliamentary 
 boundaries is sixty-three, of whom thirty-one are bur- 
 gesses ; and of those above £5, and below £10, tsventy- 
 three, of whom four are burgesses. The town-house, in 
 which the courts for the burgh and for the county are 
 held, is a handsome building containing a spacious court- 
 room, and the sheriff, justice of peace, and town-clerk's 
 offices. A new prison has been built, of much larger di- 
 mensions than the old one. 
 
 The PARISH, originally named Kilmilieu, is situated 
 between the Lochs Awe and Fine, and bounded on the 
 south and east by the latter, along which it extends for 
 about ten miles, in the form of a crescent, presenting an 
 outline of projecting rocks indented with bays. It is 
 sixteen miles in extreme length, varying from three to 
 six miles in breadth, and is supposed to comprise an 
 area of fifty-two square miles, or 34,'2S0 acres, of which 
 5S4 
 
 by far the greater portion is in pasture. The surface is 
 mountainous, and of great diversity of character. The 
 highest of the mountains is Benbui, which has an eleva- 
 tion of '2800 feet ; and in front of the castle are two 
 perpendicular masses of porphyritic rocks, called Dun- 
 chuaich and Dunchorvil, the former of them "00 and 
 the latter 800 feet high. The headlands of Kenmore and 
 Stronshira command an interesting view of the parish. 
 In general the shores are smooth and level ; but towards 
 the southern extremity, the rocks rise precipitously from 
 the loch, and assume a bold rugged aspect. The chief 
 rivers are, the Shira, which flows through the vale of 
 Glenshira into the Douloch, or " black lake" ; and the 
 Ara)', flowing through denary into Loch Fine. A river 
 called the Gear-Amhuinn, or "short river", connects 
 the Douloch with Loch Fine. Both these lochs abound 
 with salmon, trout, and other kinds of fish ; and salmon- 
 trout, herrings, cod, and flounders are often taken to- 
 gether in the same net. Near the shore the soil is 
 chiefly a thin light loam, on a gravelly bottom ; at the 
 bases of the mountains, in the valleys, a deep dark loam 
 on sand and clay ; and in other parts, moss, with a 
 small quantity of earth washed down from the higher 
 grounds. The system of agriculture in the valleys is in 
 an improved condition ; but in the higher lands so 
 much progress has not been made, as the farms contain 
 a much larger portion of pasture than of arable ground. 
 On the principal farms the buildings are substantial, but 
 many of those on the smaller farms are of very inferior 
 order. Much regard is paid to the rearing of cattle, 
 generally of the West Highland breed : little attention 
 is bestowed on the dairy, though for some years the 
 Highland Society has awarded prizes in the county for 
 cheese. The sheep, of which great numbers are reared, 
 are of the black-faced breed. The horses are sometimes 
 of a mixed breed between the native and the Clydesdale, 
 and considerable numbers of pigs are fed for market. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £6836, 
 of which £1973 are returned for the burgh. The geo- 
 logical formation is mica-slate intersected with porphyry, 
 limestone, and greenstone ; and many of the rocks 
 abound with garnet. There is an extensive quarry of 
 good paving-stone, great quantities of which are raised 
 for the city of Glasgow. 
 
 The plantations are in a very thriving condition, and 
 consist mostly of oak, Scotch fir, spruce, larch, ash, 
 beech, and plane. They were chiefly formed by the first 
 !Marquess of Argyll and his son, the ninth earl, and by 
 Archibald, third duke, and his successors ; and are sup- 
 posed to occupy an area of about 12,000 acres. Among 
 the earliest were those of Dunchuaich and the heights 
 above the castle of Inverary, including the stately avenue 
 of beech at the entrance of the vale of Glenshira ; and 
 among the more recent are those of the hills of Douloch 
 and Stronshira, which contain some beautiful specimens 
 of larch, Norway spruce, and American black and white 
 spruce, silver fir, laburnum, and lime. Inverary Castle, 
 the seat of the Duke of Argyll, erected near the site of 
 the ancient baronial castle, is a spacious quadrangular 
 structure, with circular towers at the angles. The great 
 hall is ornamented with ancient armour, among which 
 are 150 stand of arms used by the Campbells at the 
 battle of Culloden, ranged on each side : in a circular 
 recess fronting the entrance, are various specimens of 
 Highland armour. The gallery leading to the principal
 
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 apartments is spacious, and superbly decorated ; and the 
 paintings, family portraits, and tapestry are all of the 
 very highest order. The demesne, which is nearly thirty 
 miles in circuit, is tastefully embellished, and laid out in 
 walks and rides, comprising much picturesque and ro- 
 mantic scenery, and commanding extensive and richly- 
 diversified prospects. A noble avenue of trees of ancient 
 growth leads into the beautiful glen of Essachossan. In 
 her trip to Scotland in the year 1847, Her Majesty the 
 Queen paid a visit to his grace the Duke of Argyll at In- 
 verary Castle : the royal party was received by a distin- 
 guished circle, and after a stay of about an hour and a 
 half, returned to the royal squadron. 
 
 Inverary is the seat of the presbytery of Inverary, and 
 the synod of Argyll. There are two ministers : the mi- 
 nister of the first charge has a stipend of £168. 15. (one- 
 third paid from the exchequer), with a glebe valued at 
 £45 per annum, and also a manse ; and the minister of 
 the second charge, a stipend of £157. 15. (four-fifths 
 derived from the exchequer), with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £30 per annum : patron of both charges, the 
 Duke of Argyll. The church, erected in 1798, and re- 
 paired, after being greatly damaged by lightning, in 1 838, 
 is a spacious and handsome structure, with a central 
 tower and spire 115 feet in height, dividing it into two 
 distinct portions, one for the first or Gaelic church, con- 
 taining 450, and the other for the English congregation, 
 containing 410 sittings. There are places of worship in 
 connexion with the Free Church and the United Presby- 
 terian Synod. Of the several schools in the burgh, are, 
 a parochial school, with a salary of £'25. 13., besides a 
 schoolroom, dwelling-house, and garden ; and a grammar 
 school under the patronage of the corporation, with a 
 salary of £20, and the other accommodations. A female 
 school in the burgh is supported by the Duke of Argyll, 
 who pays the teacher £20 per annum, to which £4 are 
 added by the council ; and a female school of industry, 
 also in the burgh, is supported by the duchess, who allows 
 £26 to the teacher, with a dwelling-house, coal, and other 
 perquisites. In the rural districts of the parish are, a 
 parochial school, the master of which has a salary of 
 £25. 13., with a house and garden ; a school maintained 
 by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, the 
 master of which has a salary of £15, to which the duke 
 adds £8, with a house and garden, fuel, and grass for a 
 cow ; and a female school, the teacher of which has £5 
 from the society, and a house from the duke. The poor, 
 the average number of whom on the parish list is fifty, 
 are supported partly by collections at the church, ave- 
 raging £65 annually, and the interest of funds in the 
 hands of the Kirk Session, producing nearly £10; but 
 chiefly by the Duke of Argyll, who, in various ways, dis- 
 tributes about £300 annually for their relief. There are 
 some slight vestiges of an old fort at Dunchuaich ; of 
 .the ancient castle of the Mac Naughtens, on the banks 
 of Douloch ; and of some religious houses at Kilbride 
 and Achantiobairt. The market-cross, supposed to have 
 been brought from lona, was removed from the old town, 
 and erected in the present burgh ; and on the lawn of 
 Inverary Castle is an upright stone, thought to have been 
 erected in commemoration of some battle near the spot. 
 Over the water of Douglas is a very ancient bridge of one 
 arch, forming the segment of a circle, and thence called 
 the Roman bridge ; but the date of its erection is un- 
 known. 
 
 Vol. I.— 585 
 
 INVERAVEN, a parish, partly in the county of El- 
 gin, but chiefly in the county of Banff, 11 miles (N. E. 
 by E.) from Grantown ; containing 2417 inhabitants. 
 This place derives its name from its situation at the 
 mouth of the river Aven, which has its source in a lake 
 at the base of the mountains Benmacdui, Bein-na-main, 
 and Cairngorum, and after receiving various streams in 
 its course, enters the parish of Inveraven, and falls into 
 the Spey about a mile above the church. The parish is 
 chiefly noticed in historical records as the scene of a 
 memorable battle which occurred in 1594, between the 
 Earl of Huntly and the Marquess of Argyll, when the 
 latter, after an obstinate engagement, in which many 
 were slain on both sides, was totally defeated. Not far 
 from the field of battle is a tumulus called Lord Auchin- 
 down's Cairn, pointing out the spot where Sir P. Gordon, 
 of Auchindown, was killed while fighting on the side of 
 the Earl of Huntly. Inveraven parish is bounded on 
 the north-west by the river Spey, is about twenty miles 
 in length, and varies from nearly four miles to eight or 
 nine in breadth. It comprises 6400 acres of arable land 
 in good cultivation, about 1000 in plantations, and 500 
 in natural wood, with a wide extent of heath and moor. 
 The surface is mountainous, with large intervening tracts 
 of moorland ; and the lower part, near the Spey, is 
 divided from the district of Glenlivet, forming the rest 
 of the parish, by the Cairnocay mountains, a lofty range 
 extending, in a direction almost parallel with the Spey, 
 from the hill of Benrinnes to the stream of the Aven. 
 The district of Glenlivet is separated into two nearly 
 equal portions by the hill of Bochle, which rises to a 
 considerable elevation from the centre of the vale, which 
 is watered by the Livet, a tributary to the Aven. On 
 this river was a waterfall called the Linn of Livet ; but 
 it was destroyed in order to give a readier passage to the 
 salmon that frequent the stream. The Spey, which flows 
 by the parish for several miles, abounds with various 
 kinds of fish, and was formerly much celebrated for the 
 size and flavour of its salmon, which were found in greater 
 numbers than at present, both in that river and in the 
 Aven ; but the fishery has been much diminished by the 
 establishment of others nearer the mouth of the Spey, 
 which prevent many of the fish from ascending so far up. 
 In that part of the parish bordering on Kirkmichael is a 
 small lake formed by the river Aven, and supposed to be 
 almost of unfathomable depth. 
 
 The SOIL of the cultivated lands, though inferior in 
 some places, is generally fertile, consisting, in the lower 
 portion, of loam partly mixed with gravel, and in the 
 district of Glenlivet of pure loam and a rich strong clay. 
 Considerable improvements have been made in the agri- 
 culture of the parish : large tracts of waste have been 
 drained, and brought into cultivation ; and numerous 
 thriving plantations have been raised, especially near the 
 Spey, in Inveraven Proper, which abounds with orna- 
 mental timber. The principal crop is oats, with a good 
 proportion of barley ; and wheat is also raised in small 
 quantities, in the low end of Glenlivet. In this parish 
 the plantations consist of larch, oak, and mountain-ash, 
 which grow luxuriantly on the banks of the Spey and 
 Aven ; and of Scotch and spruce firs, of which there are 
 some beautiful specimens. The Highland and Agricul- 
 tural Society encourage the breed of live stock by the 
 distribution of premiums ; but comparatively little atten- 
 tion is paid to improvement in this respect. In general 
 
 4 F
 
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 the sheep are of the black-faced kind, with a few of Eng- 
 lish breed, which are not so well adapted to the soil ; 
 the breed of horses is rather small, but better suited to 
 the state of the country than a breed of larger size. The 
 farm-buildings are usually commodious, though still ca- 
 pable of great improvement ; and in parts, especially in 
 Glenlivet, are several of very superior character. Glen- 
 livet was formerly noted for the manufacture of illicit 
 spirits, and on almost every stream in the parish were 
 houses for making whisky in defiance of the law ; but 
 this practice has of late materially diminished, and there 
 are now in the vale two very extensive distilleries, where 
 whisky of the best quality is legally produced, which 
 obtains a high price in every part of the country. In the 
 parish are several mills ; also some small manufactories 
 for woollen cloths and plaidings, chiefly under the ma- 
 nagement of the farmers. The annual value of real pro- 
 perty in Inveraven is £5032. 
 
 Ballindalloch House, in the parish, the property of 
 Sir John Macpherson Grant, Bart., is a perfect specimen 
 of the old Scottish castle ; it is a square edifice with 
 three circular towers, and some additions have been 
 made to the old building during the last century. The 
 place is situated about half a mile from the confluence of 
 the Aven with the river Spey j it is richly embeUished 
 with timber, and surrounded by scenery of interesting 
 character. At a short distance may still be traced the 
 foundations of the original castle, which has long been 
 sulTered to fall into decay, and almost into oblivion, the 
 only memorial being preserved in a traditionary legend, 
 by which its restoration is said to have been prohibited. 
 Sir John's estate of Ballindalloch has been much im- 
 proved of late years, especially by extensive draining. 
 The substratum of the parish is generally primitive rock. 
 Red granite, of good quality for building, is found near the 
 river Spey, and on the north of the Benrinnes mountain, 
 in which asbestos has also been discovered. Limestone, 
 embedded in gneiss, is found in the vale of Glenlivet : 
 no regular quarries have been opened, but it is frequently 
 dug by the tenants on the different farms, for their own 
 use ; and numerous limekilns have been erected in vari- 
 ous parts of the vale. The roads and bridges are kept 
 in good repair ; and considerable intercourse is main- 
 tained with the villages of Tomantoul and Charlestown 
 (respectively three miles from each extremity of the pa- 
 rish), where markets are occasionally held ; and also with 
 Grantown and Dufftown. Fairs are held at Burnside, 
 about a mile from the church, on the Tuesday before the 
 third Friday in February, the Tuesday before the 26th of 
 May, the second Tuesday in July, O. S., and the Tuesday 
 before the 23rd November, for the sale of horses, cattle, 
 and grain, and for the hiring of servants. 
 
 Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Aber- 
 lour, synod of Moray, and in the gift of the Earl of Sea- 
 field ; the minister's stipend is about £238, with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £7 per annum. The church, which 
 was erected in 1S06, is in good repair, and affords ac- 
 commodation to about 550 persons. In Glenlivet is a 
 missionary station, supported by the Royal Bounty : the 
 chapel was erected, or rather rebuilt, in 1825, and the 
 minister has a salary of £60, with a house, a small farm, 
 and a range of hill pasture for sheep, on the Gordon 
 estate, rent-free. There are also in the vale two Roman 
 Catholic chapels, one at Tombia, and the other at Cha- 
 pelton ; the former will contain a congregation of nearly 
 586 
 
 IN VE 
 
 1000, and the latter of about 300 persons. The parochial 
 school affords education to about fifty children ; the 
 master has a salary of £28. 1". 5., with £11 fees, a house 
 and garden, and a portion of the Dick bequest. There 
 are two male, and one female school, for Protestants, in 
 the vale of Glenlivet. The masters of the two former 
 derive their salaries from the Society for Propagating 
 Christian Knowledge, and the General Assembly's Com- 
 mittee for Highland schools, and have free houses, crofts, 
 and gardens, on the Gordon estate. From this estate, 
 also, the mistress of the female school has a house and 
 garden, and the sum of £5 per annum, in addition to a 
 similar sum from the society. In Glenlivet are likewise 
 three Roman Catholic schools, two for females and one 
 for males, all supported by funds contributed by the 
 congregations at the two chapels : two of these schools 
 are aided by a bequest. Various traces of the Druids 
 exist in several parts of the parish, the most considerable 
 of which are at Chapelton of Kilmaichlie. On Kil- 
 maichlie farm, ancient coins of silver of the size of half- 
 crowns, and some old weapons, have been discovered by 
 the plough. The cemetery of a religious house formerly 
 existing at Downan is still used as a burying-ground, as 
 is also that of another, at Buitterlach, near which is a 
 cairn of large dimensions. On the farm of Haughs of 
 Kilmaichlie, is a spot of ground supposed to have been 
 anciently a place of sepulture, and which has been lately 
 planted with trees. A portion of the old castle of Dru- 
 min occupies an elevated site on a promontory, near the 
 confluence of the rivers Livet and Aven ; the walls on 
 the east and north sides are of considerable height, and 
 of massive thickness. At Blairfindy are the ruins of a 
 hunting-seat that belonged to the Earls of Huntly. 
 
 INVERBERVIE, in the county of Haddington.— 
 See Bervie. 
 
 INVERBROTHOCK, a quoad sacra parish, in the 
 parish of St. Vigean's, county of Forfar ; containing 
 5195 inhabitants. This place, which is situated on the 
 small river Brothock, forms the principal suburb of the 
 town of Arbroath, and participates largely in manufac- 
 tures. The spinning of hemp and flax gives employment 
 to more than 1500 of the inhabitants ; and the yarn 
 produced from the several mills is partly exported, and 
 partly woven. About 300 persons are employed in 
 weaving the coarser kinds of linen, for sacking, and for 
 sail-cloth for the supply of shipping. The terminus of 
 the Arbroath and Forfar railway is within this district ; 
 and facility of communication is also afforded by the 
 Dundee and Arbroath railway, the great north road, and 
 various other roads. Inverbrothock church was erected 
 in 1828, at an expense of about £2000, raised by sub- 
 scription, towards which the town council of Arbroath 
 and the principal heritors largely contributed ; it is a 
 neat structure containing 1230 sittings. The minister, 
 who is chosen by the proprietors of the pews, has a sti- 
 pend of £150, with an allowance of £20 for communion 
 elements. There are places of worship for members of 
 the Free Church, Original Seceders, and Wesleyans. A 
 handsome schoolroom was erected in the year 1842, by 
 subscription, aided by a grant from government ; it is 
 capable of receiving 250 scholars, and the school is sup- 
 ported wholly by the fees. There is a Sabbath-school 
 library, containing 480 volumes ; also a theological li- 
 brary of 400 volumes. — See the articles on Arbroath, 
 and St. Vigean's. 
 
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 INVERCHAOLAIN, a parish, in the district of 
 CowAL, county of Argyll, 7 miles (N.) from Rothesay ; 
 containing 699 inhabitants. The name of this place is 
 derived from the Chaolain, a small stream which joins 
 Loch Straven or Striven, an arm of the sea intersecting 
 the parish in a northern direction. Inverchaolain is 
 situated in the south-eastern part of the county, and is 
 about fifteen miles long, and eight miles in extreme 
 breadth, including Loch Straven : it comprises upwards 
 of 40,000 acres, of which 1300 are arable, 1500 low pas- 
 ture, nearly 1500 wood, and the remainder hill pasture. 
 The surface is irregular, and rises in the form of elevated 
 ranges on each side of the loch, which is more than nine 
 miles long, and about two miles broad at the entrance, 
 narrowing as it penetrates into the country. The depth 
 of the loch varies in the middle from twenty to fifty or 
 sixty fathoms, but in general it is more shallow towards 
 the shores, which in many parts are smooth and sandy, 
 offering excellent facilities for bathing. Other waters 
 connected with the parish (besides a few rivulets which 
 exhibit several interesting cascades) are the Kyles of 
 Bute and Loch Ridon or Riddan, forming respectively 
 the south-western and western boundaries, and affording 
 herrings and the ordinary white-fish. The whole of the 
 sea-shore belonging to the parish measures between 
 thirty and forty miles. 
 
 Near the coast the soil is light and sandy, mixed in 
 some parts with moss ; in the more inland tracts it passes 
 through several varieties, and much of the earth is of 
 a red cast. Agriculture is in a very low state, the old 
 system of cultivation generally prevailing. Most of the 
 land is laid out in sheep-farms, merely interspersed with 
 arable tracts, and held on lease for only nine years. 
 Some parts, however, form an exception, are highly cul- 
 tivated, drained, and fenced, and have very comfortable 
 houses, the leases running for nineteen years. The 
 sheep, which number upwards of 10,000, are all of the 
 black-faced kind, except a few Leicesters fed on the 
 lower grounds. Considerable numbers of cows are kept, 
 chiefly the Argyllshire, with some of the Ayrshire for 
 the dairy ; and about 200 calves are annually reared. 
 In general the cattle are disposed of to the drovers, for 
 the low-country markets ; the sheep are sold to the 
 Greenock, Glasgow, Rothesay, or Dunoon butchers. 
 The substrata of the parish chiefly comprise mica-slate, 
 and a variety of hard common rocks lying in beds, with 
 many whinstone dykes. Limestone was formerly quar- 
 ried, but it has been superseded by Irish lime in shell, 
 the latter being of superior quality and less expensive. 
 The wood comprehends about 440 acres of thriving 
 plantations, principally larch, spruce-fir, oak, ash, and 
 birch ; there are also 1000 acres of oak coppice, the 
 periodical cuttings of which make a profitable return. 
 The annual value of real property in the parish is £3283. 
 The mansion of Southhall, situated near the opening to 
 the East Kyles of Bute, embraces beautiful views of the 
 Firth of Clyde ; and at Gortan, on the eastern side of 
 Loch Straven, a cottage has been lately built, surrounded 
 with nearly 100 acres of plantations, and commanding 
 fine prospects of Rothesay bay, with Ayrshire and Arran 
 in the distance. 
 
 The dwellings of the inhabitants are scattered in va- 
 rious directions, and the people are chiefly employed in 
 agriculture, but mostly keep nets for taking the fish 
 with which the different waters abound, comprising all 
 587 
 
 kinds of white-fish, with herrings, and lobsters, crabs, 
 and other shell-fish. The peat obtained in the district 
 is used for fuel ; but more frequently coal is burnt, 
 brought from various places. The parish is tolerably 
 well supplied with roads, some of which are kept in very 
 good order. A fair is held in November, for the sale of 
 black-cattle. Inverchaolain is in the presbytery of 
 Dunoon, synod of Argyll, and in the patronage of the 
 Marquess of Bute. The minister's stipend is £150, of 
 which more than a third is received from the exchequer; 
 with a manse, and a glebe of nearly five acres, valued at 
 £13. 10. per annum. The church, built in 1812, is 
 situated on an eminence, and surrounded by a picturesque 
 burying-ground ; it contains 250 sittings, and forms that 
 will accommodate about forty more. A chapel con- 
 nected with the Establishment, and situated on the East 
 Kyles of Bute, was opened in 1840, having been built by 
 subscription, and a contribution from the General As- 
 sembly's church-extension fund. There are two schools, 
 a parish school and a side school ; the masters have 
 salaries of £22 and £11 respectively, and the fees. On 
 a small island in Loch Riddan is the ruin of the ancient 
 castle of Elland-heirrig, fortified by the Earl of Argyll 
 when he made his descent upon Scotland in 1685, and 
 which is seen by passengers in steam-boats passing along 
 the Kyles of Bute. The island, and the property lying 
 in the vicinity, were at that period possessed by a family 
 named Campbell, now extinct, who had other very con- 
 siderable lands in this part of Scotland, and were of some 
 celebrity as warriors. 
 
 INVERCRUDEN, in the county of Aberdeen.— 
 See Cruden. 
 
 INVERESK, a parish, in the county of Edinburgh, 
 5 miles (E. by S.) from Edinburgh ; containing, with 
 the town of Musselburgh, and the villages of Monkton- 
 hall, Cowpits, Craighall, Stoneyhill, and part of New 
 Craighall, 8263 inhabitants, of whom 211 are in the 
 village of Inveresk. This place derives its name from its 
 situation near the influx of the river Esk into a bay on 
 the south shore of the Firth of Forth. The parish is 
 about three miles in length and two and a half in breadth, 
 comprising 4000 acres, of which, with the exception of a 
 small portion of woodland and plantations, the whole is 
 arable, and in a high state of cultivation. Its surface, 
 though generally level, and sloping towards the coast, is 
 pleasingly varied with gentle undulations, which, in the 
 direction of the southern boundary of the parish, termi- 
 nate in a ridge, but of inconsiderable height, having 
 an elevation of little more than 500 feet above the level 
 of the sea. Along the shore of the Firth arc some beau- 
 tiful downs of great extent, well adapted for the celebra- 
 tion of public games, and on which a fine race-course 
 has been formed, and a handsome and commodious stand 
 erected. The river Esk,. combining the w'aters of the 
 North Esk, which has its source in the Pcntland hills, 
 and of the South Esk, which rises in the Moorfoot range, 
 flows from Dalkeith Park (where the two streams unite), 
 in a pleasing winding course through the parish, and 
 falls into the bay of Musselburgh. Salmon are found 
 in the river, though not in any considerable numbers ; 
 and off the coast are taken haddock, cod, flounders, 
 whiting, and occasionally soles and mackerel. 
 
 Near the village the soil is a light sandy loam, of 
 great fertility ; and on the higher grounds, a deep clayey 
 loam ; the whole producing exuberant crops of wheat, 
 
 4 F2
 
 I N V E 
 
 IN VE 
 
 barley, oats, peas, beans, potatoes, and turnips. The 
 system of husbandry has been brought to much perfec- 
 tion, and the lands generally are in the highest state of 
 cultivation ; the farm-houses are substantially built and 
 well arranged, and on most of the farms are threshing- 
 mills, several of which are worked by steam. The lands 
 have been well drained, and inclosed either with stone 
 walls or hedges of thorn ; and all the more recent im- 
 provements in the construction of agricultural imple- 
 ments have been adopted. The cattle reared are not 
 confined to any particular breed, the horses are usually 
 the Clydesdale, and the sheep of the Cheviot and Lei- 
 cestershire breeds. A considerable portion of land is 
 cultivated as gardens ; and large quantities of fruit, 
 flowers, and vegetables are raised for the supply of the 
 Edinburgh and Glasgow markets. The annual value of 
 real property in the parish is £26,677. The plantations 
 are ash, oak, elm, plane, beech, and larch, Scotch, and 
 spruce firs, with a few pines, all of which seem well 
 adapted to the soil, and are in a thriving state. In this 
 parish the principal substrata are coal, freestone, and 
 limestone. The coal-field extends under the whole of 
 the parish, on both sides of the river Esk, and contains 
 forty seams, varying from two and a half to nine feet in 
 thickness : of these seams three are wrought, which are 
 respectively three, four and a half, and four feet thick, 
 and at depths of nine, twelve, and ninety fathoms. The 
 chief collieries now in operation are at New Craighall, 
 Monktonhall, and Edmonstone : at New Craighall a 
 steam-engine of 140-horse power was many years ago 
 erected, at an expense of £6000, by Messrs. Claud Gird- 
 wood and Company, for drawing off the water. Another, 
 of still greater power, has recently been erected. There 
 were formerly collieries at Pinkie-burn, Midfield, and 
 Cowpits ; but the workings have been long abandoned. 
 Several quarries of limestone are wrought to a consider- 
 able extent, both at Chalkieside, in this parish, and at 
 Cousland, in the adjoining parish of Cranston. 
 
 Among the principal mansions in the parish is Pinkie 
 House, the seat of Sir John Hope, Bart., anciently the 
 country residence of the abbots of Dunfermline, and, 
 according to an inscription in front of the building, en- 
 larged or improved by Lord Seton in 1613. Its most 
 ancif nt portion is a massive square tower, crowned with 
 turrets, and the walls of which are of immense thickness, 
 and the ground-floor strongly vaulted. The mansion in 
 its present state, though only part of a more magnificent 
 structure, is spacious, and contains many splendid apart- 
 ments, in one of which, called the King's Room, the abbot 
 entertained his sovereign. The painted gallery, which is 
 120 feet in length, and has an enriched ceiling painted 
 in device, was used as an hospital for the wounded, after 
 the battle of Pinkie ; and Prince Charles Edward slept 
 in the apartment on the night after the battle of Preston- 
 pans. Carberry House is beautifully situated on the 
 acclivity of Carberry hill, upon the summit of which the 
 place is still pointed out where Mary, Queen of Scots, 
 sat, while holding a conference with Kirkaldy of Grange. 
 This mansion, which is of great antiquity, has within the 
 last thirty or forty years been repaired, and partly 
 modernised ; it commands a fine prospect embracing the 
 Firth of Forth. The grounds are tastefully embellished, 
 and enriched with groves and avenues of oak, chesnut, 
 and beech, of stately and venerable growth. There are 
 numerous other mansions, the principal of which are, 
 588 
 
 Stoneyhill House, anciently the seat of the son of Arch- 
 bishop Sharpe ; Monkton House, now in ruins, said to 
 have been built by General Monk ; and New Hailes, for- 
 merly the seat of Lord Hailes, author of the Annals of 
 Scotland. The grounds of the last are pleasingly laid 
 out ; and near the house is a column, erected to the 
 memory of the Earl of Stair. The village of Inveresk is 
 beautifully situated on rising ground overlooking the 
 picturesque and fertile valley of the Esk ; and from the 
 mildness of the climate, and the interesting variety of 
 the scenery around, it has long been distinguished as 
 the" Montpelier" of Scotland, and selected as a favourite 
 place of residence. Great facility of intercourse is afforded 
 by the North-British railway. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Dalkeith, synod of Lothian 
 and Tweeddale. The minister's stipend is £324. 11., with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £22 per annum ; patron, 
 the Duke of Buccleuch. There is also an assistant 
 minister, who receives the interest of a bequest of £340, 
 £5 from seat-rents, and from £35 to £40 from his office 
 as session-clerk. The church of St. Michael, a spacious 
 building, supposed to have been originally erected soon 
 after the introduction of Christianity into Britain, was 
 taken down in 1804, and a new structure erected on its 
 site in 1806. The present church, containing 2400 
 sittings, is a plain edifice in the Grecian style of archi- 
 tecture ; with a lofty tower and spire, forming a con- 
 spicuous landmark, and towards the building of which a 
 contribution was made by the Commissioners of Northern 
 Lighthouses. A "quoad sacra" church has been built in 
 Fisherrow, in the parish ; and there are places of wor- 
 ship for members of the Free Church, the United Presby- 
 terian Church, Independents, and Wesleyans ; and an 
 episcopal chapel. A grammar school, at Musselburgh, 
 is under the patronage of the magistrates and town 
 council, who give the master a salary of £27. 4. 5., in 
 addition to the house and schoolroom. There are also 
 English schools in Musselburgh and Fisherrow, the 
 masters of which receive salaries of £12 and £17, re- 
 spectively, from the corporation funds. The relics of 
 antiquity that have been discovered in various parts of 
 the parish, afford striking evidence that this place was 
 not merely a military station, but a Roman colony or 
 municipum. The ancient church of St. Michael was built 
 on the site, and partly with the materials, of the prae- 
 torium of a Roman camp on Inveresk hill. Foundations 
 of baths, and numerous other vestiges of Roman occupa- 
 tion, have been discovered at different times. Among 
 these were, a votive altar inscribed Apollini Granno ; a 
 golden coin of Trajan, much obliterated ; and a copper 
 medal with the inscription Diva Faustina. Walker, an 
 eminent engraver of portraits, and Burnet, a distinguished 
 historical engraver, were natives of the parish ; as is, 
 also, Alexander Ritchie, who has excelled as a sculptor. 
 Logan, the poet, was educated in the grammar school. — 
 See Musselburgh, Northesk, &c. 
 
 INVERGORDON, a village and small sea-port, in 
 the parish of Rosskeen, county of Ross and Cromarty, 
 19 miles (N. E.) from Dingwall ; containing 998 inhabit- 
 ants. This place, which is situated on the north shore 
 of Cromarty Firth, at nearly an equal distance from 
 Tain and Dingwall, has greatly increased in importance 
 since the construction of a commodious harbour by 
 Roderick Mc Leod, Esq., in 1828, at a cost of more than
 
 IN VE 
 
 INVE 
 
 £5000. The village is neatly built, and the scenery de- 
 rives much additional beauty from the pleasure-grounds 
 of Invergordon Castle, in its immediate vicinity. A sub- 
 scription library has been established. A cattle-show 
 takes place annually ; there are numerous inns for the 
 accommodation of travellers ; and from its central situa- 
 tion, the place is rapidly advancing. Invergordon har- 
 bour is accessible to vessels of large burthen. The port 
 carries on an extensive trade in the exportation of grain, 
 cattle, horses, sheep, pigs, and all the various kinds of 
 agricultural produce ; and is one of the most frequented 
 in Easter and Wester Ross. A substantial pier has been 
 erected for the loading and unloading of vessels, and 
 also a slip for building and repairing ships. A wooden 
 jetty has lately been added to the pier, in order to secure 
 a depth of ten feet water at ebb-tides ; and the trade of 
 the place is facilitated by a ferry across the Firth to 
 Cromarty. Facility of communication is also afforded by 
 good roads, and by steamers, which ply during the 
 summer months, weekly, to Inverness, Aberdeen, and 
 Leith, and every alternate week to London. The north 
 and south mails pass daily through the village. Fairs 
 for cattle, horses, agricultural produce, fish, and various 
 kinds of wares, are held on the first Thursdays in every 
 month throughout the year ; on the second Tuesdays in 
 April, October, and December ; on the third Tuesday in 
 February ; and the first Tuesday in August. 
 
 INVERGOWRIE, a village, in the parish of Life, 
 Benvie, and Invergowrie, county of Forfar, 3 miles 
 (W.) from Dundee ; containing 108 inhabitants. It is 
 pleasantly situated on the south bank of the Tay es- 
 tuary, and gives name to a fine bay, at the bottom of 
 which is the small mouldering ruin of Invergowrie 
 church, half covered with ivy, close on the water's edge. 
 This is said to have been the first Christian structure 
 north of the Tay ; it was probably founded in the se- 
 venth century, by a papal legate named Boniface. From 
 Invergowrie Alexander I. embarked on his escape from 
 assassination at the palace of LifF. The village stands at 
 the commencement of the Carse of Gowrie, on the high 
 road from Perth to Dundee, and near the Perth and 
 Dundee railway, which has a station here. About half 
 a mile from it, on Invergowrie hill, are the remains of a 
 Roman camp, which had a communication on the north- 
 east with the camp of Hare Faulds, and was designed, 
 it is supposed, to keep up a communication with the Ro- 
 man shipping in the Tay. Its site is now surrounded 
 with a plantation of trees. 
 
 INVERKEILLOR, a parish, in the 'county of For- 
 far, 6 miles (N. by E. ) from Arbroath ; containing, 
 with the hamlets of Chapelton of Boysack, Leysmill, 
 March of Lunanbank, and Millfield, 18*9 inhabitants, 
 of whom 141 are in the village of Inverkeillor. This 
 parish derives its name from its situation at the mouth 
 of the Keillor, a small rivulet which flows into the bay 
 of Lunan about a mile south-eastward of the village. 
 It lays claim to a considerable degree of antiquity ; and 
 near the mouth of the river Lunan are the ruins of the 
 ancient house of Redcastle, said to have been built for a 
 hunting-seat, the probability of which is confirmed by the 
 names of several of the adjacent lands. In the year 1/49 
 the roof and part of the walls of Redcastle were taken 
 down ; a statue of King William the Lion was then re- 
 moved from its pedestal, and owing to the inattention 
 or unskilfulness of the workmen, it fell to the ground, 
 589 
 
 and was broken to pieces. The parish is bounded on 
 the north, and also intersected, by the river Lunan ; on 
 the east is the sea. It is about seven miles in length, 
 and of very irregular form, varying from about two and 
 a half to four and a half miles in breadth ; and com- 
 prises an area of 7500 acres, of which 130 are woodland 
 and plantations, '2500 pasture, and the remainder arable. 
 The surface is generally level, but rises towards the north 
 by a gentle acclivity from the river Lunan, and towards 
 the south from the Keillor, terminating, in the latter 
 direction, in a high ridge of rocky coast, at the pro- 
 montory of Redhead, which has an elevation of '230 feet 
 above the level of the sea. Of the two streams, the 
 Lunan has its source near Forfar, and flowing eastward, 
 through the northern portion of the parish, falls into 
 Lunan bay : the Keillor rises in the southern part of 
 the parish, and joins the sea at the southern extremity 
 of the bay of Lunan. The coast extends for nearly six 
 miles ; and the shore along the bay of Lunan is a flat 
 firm sand, beyond which, to the south, it is bold and rocky. 
 Lunan bay affords good anchorage for vessels ; and all 
 along the coast are salmon-fisheries. 
 
 The SOIL is in general fertile, in some places a deep 
 rich loam, and in others of a lighter quality ; the crops 
 are, grain of every kind, with potatoes and turnips. 
 The system of husbandry is in a very improved state ; 
 the lands are well drained, the farm-buildings of supe- 
 rior construction, and the fences, which are chiefly of 
 stone, are kept in good order. Of the live stock, the 
 cattle reared in the parish are usually of the Angus black 
 breed, without horns : most of them are sold when three 
 years old, for the English market, where they obtain a 
 high price ; and the others are pastured for home use, 
 or for the Glasgow market. The sheep are of the High- 
 land black-faced breed, with a few of the Cheviot and 
 the Leicestershire. The annual value of real property 
 in the parish amounts to £8761. The plantations are 
 beech, elm, oak, birch, and plane, with larch and Scotch 
 fir, for which the soil is well adapted. Freestone is ex- 
 tensively quarried at Leysmill, where paving-stones are 
 dressed by machinery driven by steam : in the works 
 here, which are the property of Mr. Carnegie of Boysack, 
 about fifty men are constantly employed. Ethie House, 
 the seat of the Earl of Northesk, is an ancient mansion 
 originally erected by Cardinal Beaton, and is pleasantly 
 situated near the coast. The only other houses of any 
 note are Kinblethmont and Anniston. 
 
 The village of Inverkeillor stands on the great north 
 road from Edinburgh to Aberdeen : its inhabitants are 
 the ordinary tradesmen necessary for the convenience of 
 a country population. Some of the inhabitants of the 
 parish are employed in the spinning of flax, for which 
 there are several mills, some being driven by steam, and 
 others by the water of the Lunan. Near the church is 
 a posting-house, called Chance Inn ; and facility of com- 
 munication is afforded by the Arbroath and Forfar and 
 the Aberdeen railways, by good roads, and several bridges 
 over the Lunan river. For ecclesiastical purposes 
 the parish is within the limits of the presbytery of 
 Arbroath, synod of Angus and Mearns. The minister's 
 stipend is £246. 14., with a manse, and a glebe valued at 
 £8. 15. per annum ; patron, the Crown. Inverkeillor 
 church, erected in 1735, and enlarged by the addition 
 of an aisle in 1799, is a plain structure containing 700 
 sittings. There is a place of worship for members of the
 
 I N V E 
 
 I N VE 
 
 Free Church. The parochial schoolmaster has a salary 
 of £34 a year, with a house and garden ; he receives £10 
 from a bequest, for the gratuitous instruction of twelve 
 poor children, and the fees average about £15 per annum. 
 There is also a school at Chapelton, the master of which 
 has a free house and garden, and a salary of £7 arising 
 from a bequest, in addition to the fees. The bequest 
 from which the two payments to the schools are made, 
 amounts to £1000, under the management of the Kirk 
 Session, who appropriate the remainder of the proceeds 
 to the poor not upon the parish roll. Near the sea are 
 the remains of St. Murdoch's chapel, with the burying- 
 ground attached to it ; and at Chapelton are the remains 
 of the chapel of Quytefield, the burial-place of the family 
 of Boysack. 
 
 ^^§4%L 
 
 Reverse. 
 
 Seal and Arms. 
 
 INVERKEITHING, a parish, sea-port, burgh, and 
 market-town, in the district of Dunfermline, county 
 of Fife, 12i miles (N. W. by W.) from Edinburgh; 
 containing, with the village of Hillend, 2530 inhabitants, 
 of whom 1674 are in the burgh. This place is supposed 
 to have derived its name from its position at the influx 
 of the river Keithing into the Firth of Forth, and the 
 parish at present includes the ancient parish of Rosyth, 
 so called, in the Gaelic language, from its peninsular 
 situation. Inverkeithing appears to be of considerable 
 antiquity ; and the adjacent ferry was, on her flight 
 from England, the landing-place of Margaret, who after- 
 wards became the queen of Malcolm III. Several battles 
 have at various times occurred in the immediate vicinity, 
 the last of which was between the Scots and the forces 
 of Oliver Cromwell, in 1651 ; and there are still the re- 
 mains of a redoubt, said to have been thrown up by 
 Cromwell's army while it was encamped on the Ferry 
 hill. The town is pleasantly and advantageously situ- 
 ated on an eminence overlooking the bay of St. Margaret's 
 Hope in the Firth of Forth, and consists chiefly of one 
 principal street, from which a smaller street and some 
 lanes branch off in different directions. In general the 
 houses are well built, of sandstone or greenstone ; and 
 many of the older buildings have been taken down, and 
 replaced with others of more modern and handsome 
 appearance. There are a public subscription library, a 
 circulating library, and a library exclusively for religious 
 works, all of which are well supported. The environs 
 arc pleasant, and abound with objects of interest ; the 
 place has, on the whole, a clean and cheerful aspect, and 
 has lately been lighted with gas. 
 
 A distillery is conducted on a very extensive scale, 
 employing about eighty persons ; and the produce, 
 which is chiefly whisky, is shipped oif for the supply of 
 590 
 
 the London market. There are two iron-foundries, 
 where works of the larger kind are cast ; and in con- 
 nexion with them are forges, in which steam-engines 
 and various kinds of machinery are manufactured ; the 
 whole affording occupation to fifty persons. Bricks for 
 common uses, and fire-bricks of very superior quality, 
 are made in great numbers ; chimney and other orna- 
 ments are manufactured, resembling freestone in appear- 
 ance, and retorts are supplied hence for the principal 
 gas-works of Scotland. These retorts have attained 
 considerable celebrity, lasting from two to three years, 
 whilst iron ones last only about six months. There are 
 a tannery, salt-works, and a laboratory for magnesia, in 
 full operation ; two mills for meal and flour ; one for 
 barley ; and a mill worked by steam for crushing bones 
 for agricultural purposes, the produce of which is sent 
 to most places on the eastern coast. Inverkeithing has 
 also a large yard for building and repairing ships, and a 
 rope and sail work ; where a considerable number of 
 people are engaged. 
 
 It appears that the trade of the port in stone was 
 formerly very extensive, but declined for some time, 
 until its revival within the last few years. Large quan- 
 tities of whinstone or trap rock used to be shipped here 
 for paving the streets of London, but this stone has for 
 some years been to a great extent superseded for that 
 purpose by the use of granite from Aberdeen. The 
 trade, however, has of late revived, and upwards of a 
 hundred men are employed in working the stone, prin- 
 cipally for government works at Chatham, Woolwich, 
 and other places, as well as for the London market, 
 railways, &c. There is also a considerable trade carried 
 on in the export of lime, sandstone, corn, and the pro- 
 duce of the manufactories, and in the importation of 
 timber, bark, and bones for grinding. But the principal 
 feature in the trade of the port, which is very extensive, 
 is the export of coal for the foreign and home markets ; 
 this being the shipping-place for the coal from not less 
 than six different collieries, namely, Cuttlehill, Loch- 
 gelly, Townhill, Crossgates, Halbeath, Cowdenbeath, and 
 Hill of Beath. The coal raised at these works is of the 
 best quality for the use of steamers. There is a railway 
 from Halbeath and the Dunfermline coal-fields, six miles 
 in length, for conveying coal, stone, lime, and bricks to 
 the shipping. In 1843 there were twenty-eight vessels, 
 varying from twenty to 160 tons' burthen, registered as 
 belonging to the port, and mostly employed in the 
 coasting-trade. Steam-boats sail from the village of 
 North Queensferry, in the vicinity, to Leith, Stirling, 
 and other ports, affording a facility of intercourse with 
 the principal towns in this part of the country ; and 
 several lines of good turnpike-road, also, serve to main- 
 tain an easy communication with the neighbouring mar- 
 ket-towns. The market, on Monday, for grain and live 
 stock, is held in a handsome and commodious market- 
 house. Five annual fairs are held in the town for 
 horses, cattle, and various kinds of merchandise, which 
 used to be numerously attended by dealers from dif- 
 ferent parts ; but very little business is at present trans- 
 acted, except at the cattle-fair in May, and the Lammas 
 fair on the first Friday in August, which latter is resorted 
 to by considerable numbers of people from the neigh- 
 bouring districts, when horse and foot races regularly 
 take place. A branch of the Eastern Bank of Scotland 
 has been established.
 
 I N V E 
 
 I N VE 
 
 The iahabitants at a very 
 early period received a charter 
 of incorporation, which is re- 
 cited in a charter granted by 
 William the Lion, and was 
 confirmed and enlarged by 
 charters of Robert III. and 
 James VI., giving to the bur- 
 gesses certain land customs, 
 and the customs on vessels 
 navigating the port from the 
 
 o J c. > ^^L r. I great stone near Milnathort 
 Second Seal of the Burgh. ^ ., », * .u „• i n 
 
 •' "on the north to the middle 
 
 of the Firth of Forth on the south, and from the river 
 Leven on the east to the river Devon on the west ; with 
 certain tracts of land, and various other privileges. By 
 these charters, the government is vested in a provost, 
 two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and a council 
 of ten burgesses, assisted by a town-clerk and other 
 officers, all chosen under the regulations of the Muni- 
 cipal Reform act. The provostship was made here- 
 ditary, by a grant of Mary, Queen of Scots, in the family 
 of Henderson of Fordel ; but the burgh successfully re- 
 sisted this grant as an invasion of their independence. 
 The provost of this burgh was, in public processions, 
 next in precedence to the provost of Edinburgh. By 
 their ancient charter, the magistrates had power of 
 jurisdiction in capital offences ; and a rising ground 
 near the town still retains the name of Gallowhill, being 
 the place where criminals were executed. The provost, 
 bailies, and the other officers of the corporation, were 
 formerly all elected by the council ; and the council 
 filled up vacancies as they occurred from the burgesses, 
 by a majority of their own body. There are five incor- 
 porated trades, viz., the hammermen, tailors, shoemakers, 
 bakers, and weavers, which are severally governed by 
 deacons ; and the freedom of the burgh is obtained by 
 becoming a member of any one of these companies, on 
 the payment of certain fees. The jurisdiction of the pro- 
 vost and bailies, the former of whom is a justice of the 
 peace by virtue of his office, extends over the whole of 
 the royalty of the burgh, and the magistrates hold courts 
 for the determination of civil actions to any amount ; 
 but all criminal cases, except trifling misdemeanors, 
 are referred to the county assizes. Inverkeithing unites 
 with Culross, South Queensferry, Stirling and Dunferm- 
 line, in returning one member to the imperial parliament ; 
 the right of election being vested, by the act of the 2nd 
 and 3rd of William IV., in the householders and owners 
 of property of the annual value of £10 or upwards, resi- 
 dent within seven miles of the royalty. The number of 
 electors is ninety, of whom thirty-four are burgesses ; 
 and the number of persons whose houses are below the 
 value of £10 per annum, is forty-five, of whom six are 
 burgesses. There is a town-hall, a neat building of stone, 
 well adapted to the use of the corporation, and for hold- 
 ing the courts : the prison, which is only for the tem- 
 porary confinement of offenders, is small and insecure. 
 The market-cross is a neat, and rather lofty, pillar of 
 stone ; and between the town and the village of North 
 Ferry, is a handsome building originally erected for a 
 lazaretto, but which has been superseded by stationing 
 a frigate in the bay of St. Margaret's Hope, for the 
 quarantine service. The annual revenue of the burgh is 
 between £600 and £700, and is increasing. 
 591 
 
 The PARISH extends for six miles along the shore of 
 the Firth, including the bay of St. Margaret's Hope, so 
 called from the lauding of Queeu Margaret. It com- 
 prises about 2500 acres, chiefly arable, with a moderate 
 portion of pasture, and a few acres in plantations. The 
 surface is greatly varied, consisting of hills of consider- 
 able elevation with intervening valleys, and level sands 
 stretching along the coast and often interrupted by 
 cragged heights. In the Firth are the rocky island of 
 Inch-Garvie and the rock of Bimar, which latter has been 
 the cause of frequent shipwrecks. The streamlet called 
 the Keith or Keithing, as already stated, here falls into 
 the Firth ; and two small burns, after intersecting the 
 parish, unite their streams, and also join the harbour. 
 The scenery is marked rather with features of romantic 
 character, than of picturesque beauty ; and the want of 
 ornamental timber gives an appearance of bleakness to 
 the landscape. In this parish the soils are various, but 
 fertile, and much waste and mossy land has been re- 
 claimed by draining, and brought into profitable culti- 
 vation J the system of husbandry is of the most approved 
 kind. The crops are wheat, barley, oats, beans, peas, 
 potatoes, and turnips ; the little pasture there is, is on 
 the acclivities of the hills. The plantations are chiefly 
 of recent growth ; they consist of larch and fir, inter- 
 spersed with oak, ash, beech, and elm trees, and on the 
 banks of the streams there are some alder and willow. 
 For the most part the farm- buildings are substantial 
 and commodious, and several, of modern erection, are 
 very superior : steam-power is generally used for thresh- 
 ing-mills. The lands are inclosed principally with 
 hedges of thorn, which are kept in good order ; but a 
 few of the fields are fenced with stone dykes. The 
 substratum is generally greenstone, or trap rock, in the 
 southern part of the parish, and coal, limestone, and 
 sandstone in the northern part. Among the minerals are 
 quartz, steatite, felspar, sulphate of barytes, calcareous 
 spar, ironstone, and pyrites of iron ; and boulders of 
 chlorite and mica-slate are frequently found. The green- 
 stone is quarried extensively for building, paving, and 
 for mending the roads ; and large quantities are shipped 
 from the port : the sandstone is also quarried, and sent 
 to the towns on the neighbouring coast ; and there are 
 quarries of limestone of excellent quality, of which 
 great quantities are forwarded to distant places. The 
 coal is worked to the extent of 30,000 or 40,000 tons 
 annually in the parish. The yearly value of the real pro- 
 perty in the parish is returned at £7431. On the estate 
 of Duloch is an ancient mansion; also a modern house, 
 the occasional residence of its proprietor ; and on a 
 promontory near St. Margaret's Hope is a handsome 
 marine villa. 
 
 Inverkeithing is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of 
 Dunfermline, synod of Fife, and in the patronage of 
 Lady Baird : the minister's stipend is about £300, with 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £40 per annum. The 
 church, which is situated in the centre of the town, is 
 a handsome edifice in the later style of English architec- 
 ture, built, with the exception of the tower, in 1827, to 
 replace the former structure, destroyed by an accidental 
 fire in 1825. It is a conspicuous feature in the view of 
 the town, and is adapted for a congregation of nearly 
 1000 persons. There is a place of worship for a con- 
 gregation of the United Presbyterian Church. Inver- 
 keithing parochial school, for which an elegant building
 
 IN VE 
 
 IN V E 
 
 has been erected, and which is also the burgh school, 
 affords a liberal education to IJO scholars : the master, 
 who is appointed jointly by the town council and the 
 heritors, has a salary of £34, with £100 fees, and a 
 house and garden. A female school has been established 
 for teaching reading and sewing, the mistress of which is 
 appointed by the council, who give her a salary of £5 and 
 a school-house, in addition to the fees. 
 
 There are some Druidical remains on the summit of 
 Letham hill ; and in the north of the parish is a stone 
 pillar, about ten feet in height, on which are rudely- 
 sculptured figures of men and horses, much defaced by 
 time : it is supposed to have been raised in commemora- 
 tion of some successful conflict with the Danes. On the 
 summit of a rock in the bay connected by a narrow 
 isthmus with the main land, are the remains of the 
 ancient castle of Rosyth, consisting of the walls of a 
 square tower, which, from the traces of foundations, ap- 
 pears to have been at the north-east angle of a quadran- 
 gular range of buildings. The castle is said to have been 
 anciently the baronial seat of the Stuarts of Rosyth, 
 descendants of Walter, high steward of Scotland, and 
 father of Robert II. ; it is now the property of the Earl 
 of Hopetoun. Over the gateway is a coat of arms, those 
 of Queen Mary, surmounted by a crown, with the in- 
 scription M. R. and the date 1561 ; and near the door 
 on the south side is a couplet in the Scottish dialect, 
 having allusion to the bell, as summoning the guests to 
 the banquet. On the transoms of the windows in the 
 hall, also, are engraved the initials M. S. and M. N. An 
 old building in the town is said to be the remains of the 
 residence of Annabella Drummond, queen of Robert III., 
 in which she died in 1403 ; the tenement, though in the 
 centre of the town, is exempt from the jurisdiction of 
 the magistrates, who, under their charter from that 
 monarch, were obliged to pay her lOOshiUings annually. 
 Near it are numerous ruins, among which were lately 
 discovered the foundations of an ancient chapel belong- 
 ing to one of the monasteries founded here for brethren 
 of the Franciscan and Dominican orders. In the town 
 are also some old houses that were the residences of the 
 families of Fordel, Claverhouse, and Rosebery. During 
 the repairs of the former church, there was found a 
 beautiful hexagonal font of sandstone, richly sculptured 
 on each face of the shaft with the bust of an angel with 
 expanded wings, bearing on its breast a shield of antique 
 form, in which were the arms of Scotland and of several 
 of the monarchs : it had apparently been buried with 
 care. 
 
 INVERKEITHNY, a parish, in the county of Banff, 
 10 miles (N. E.) from Huntly ; containing 687 inhabit- 
 ants. This place takes its name from the large burn of 
 Keithny, which here falls into the river Doveron. The 
 parish lies on the south side of the Doveron, extending 
 along that stream between five and six miles, and mea- 
 suring from four miles to five in breadth. On the north 
 it is bounded by the parish of Marnoch, on the west by 
 that of Rothiemay, on the south-west and south by 
 Forgue, on the south-east by Auchterless, and on the 
 east by Turriff, the three last parishes in the county of 
 Aberdeen. It is computed to contain 5610 acres, of 
 which 4000 are cultivated, 800 waste or natural pasture, 
 and the same number in woods, plantations, and un- 
 divided common. There is scarcely any thing to be met 
 with in the nature of peat or moss. The soil is tolerably 
 592 
 
 good, and a considerable quantity of grain is annually 
 raised ; the land is farmed upon the most approved 
 system, and the rents average about 15«. per acre, the 
 annual value of real property in the parish amounting 
 to £3343. The public road from Banff to Huntly, to 
 the former of which towns the agricultural produce is 
 mostly sent, passes through the western portion of the 
 parish. Ecclesiastically the place is within the bounds 
 of the presbytery of Turriff, synod of Aberdeen ; and 
 the patronage is vested in Thomas G. Bremner, Esq. : 
 the stipend of the minister is £215, with a manse, built 
 in 1*87, and a glebe of nearly six acres, valued at £10 
 per annum. Inverkeithny church, a very plain edifice, 
 stands in a narrow vale, near the bank of the Doveron, 
 where, also, is the manse. The parochial school affords 
 instruction in the usual branches ; the salary of the 
 master is £34 per annum, with about £30 fees, and a 
 house : fifty children are educated. 
 
 INVERLEVEN, in the county of Fife.— See Dub- 
 
 BIESIDE. 
 
 INVERMORRISTON, a village, in the parish of 
 Urquhart and Glenmorriston, county of Inver- 
 ness, ^1| miles (S. W. by W.) from Bonar Ferry; con- 
 taining 94 inhabitants. It is situated at the confluence 
 of the river Morriston with Loch Ness ; and an excellent 
 road has been formed from it, coastwise, along the north- 
 west shore of the loch, to Bonar Ferry. The Grant 
 family have a handsome seat in the vicinity ; and there 
 is an excellent inn. A missionary preaches here, and in 
 the upper part of the glen, alternately ; and a branch of 
 the parochial school is in the village. 
 
 INVERNESS, a royal 
 burgh, a sea-port town, and 
 parish, in the county of 
 Inverness, of which it is 
 the chief town, 156 miles 
 (N. N. \V.) from Edinburgh ; 
 containing, with the villages 
 of Balloch, Clachnaharry, 
 Culcaboch, Hilton, Resawrie, 
 and Smithtown of Culloden, 
 1 5,4 1 S inhabitants, of whom 
 11,568 are in the burgh. . 
 
 This place derives its name 
 
 from its situation near the mouth of the river Ness, and 
 is the largest and most flourishing town in the High- 
 lands, of which it may be considered as the capital. It 
 is supposed to have been the ancient metropolis of the 
 kingdom of the Picts, and the residence of their kings 
 previously to the union of the Picts and Scots in the 
 reign of Kenneth II., who lived in the ninth century. 
 It is also thought to have been visited, in the sixth 
 century, by St. Columba, for the conversion of the in- 
 habitants to the Christian religion. The castle, for 
 many years the occasional residence of the Scottish 
 kings, is identified by Shakespeare as the scene of the 
 murder of Duncan by Macbeth, lord of Ross and Moray, 
 though, by most historians, the perpetration of that 
 crime is said to have taken place in the vicinity of Elgin. 
 It was razed to the ground, about the middle of the 
 eleventh century, by Duncan's son, Malcolm Canmore, who 
 erected, near the site, a strong fortress which was held 
 for the king by one of the most powerful of the nobility, 
 with a view to keep the inhabitants of this Highland 
 district in subjection. Soon after the completion of
 
 INVE 
 
 I N V E 
 
 this castle, some houses were raised in its immediate 
 neighbourhood ; and a town gradually arose, which, 
 under its protection, increased in extent and impor- 
 tance, and was frequently visited by the kings. Though 
 often plundered by the inhabitants of the Isles and by 
 the Highlanders, the town continued to prosper ; and 
 in the thirteenth century it had attained a considerable 
 degree of commercial consequence, being inhabited by 
 numerous Flemings and Saxons, who had settled here, 
 and who carried on a lucrative trade in the exportation 
 of hides, malt, and various kinds of fish. 
 
 In 1303, the castle was besieged and taken by Ed- 
 ward I. of England ; but it was soon afterwards retaken 
 by the adherents of Robert Bruce, who was then raising 
 forces in the Western Islands, to assert his right to the 
 throne ; and it remained in the possession of his suc- 
 cessors, kings of Scotland, till the reign of James I. la 
 1411, the town was plundered by Donald. Lord of the 
 Isles, who, in his march from the battle of Harlaw, set 
 fire to the castle, which was nearly destroyed ; it was, 
 however, restored by the king, who repaired the fortifi- 
 cations, and made the chief of the Macintosh family, 
 descended from one of the Earls of Fife, governor. The 
 castle continued for some time to be a place for the con- 
 finement of state prisoners, and, in 1508, was placed 
 under the command of the Earl of Huntly, who was 
 also created heritable sheriff of the county. On the in- 
 surrection of a succeeding earl, in 1.t6'2, Mary, Queen of 
 Scots, in her progress to the north to quell the rebellion, 
 came to Inverness with a few attendants, and being re- 
 fused admission into the castle, at that time held in her 
 name by the insurgent earl, lodged in a house at the 
 base of the fortress. From this perilous situation the 
 queen was relieved by the Frasers, Monroes, and Mac- 
 kenzies, whom her proclamation had brought to her 
 assistance ; the castle was compelled to surrender, and 
 the deputy-governor was executed on the spot. The 
 queen, after remaining four days in the castle, left the 
 town, and retired to Aberdeen. 
 
 During the parliamentary war, the castle was an object 
 of constant dispute between the contending parties. It 
 was repeatedly besieged and taken for the king by the 
 Marquess of Montrose, and as frequently retaken by his 
 opponents : in 1649, it was nearly demolished by the 
 royalists under Sir Thomas Urquhart ; and during the 
 same year, the town was seized by the royal forces under 
 Generals Middleton and Monroe. The castle was, how- 
 ever, recaptured by Cromwell, who erected a strong for- 
 tress for the defence of the town, capable of accommo- 
 dating 1000 men, to provide materials for which he de- 
 stroyed the monasteries of Kiuloss and Beauly, and all 
 the religious houses in the neighbourhood. After the 
 Restoration, this fortress was demolished, to conciliate 
 the Highlanders, who had been held under powerful re- 
 straint, and severely annoyed, by the garrison of Crom- 
 well ; and several of the more ancient houses in the 
 town were built with the materials. The royal castle 
 which had been nearly demolished by Urquhart was, at 
 the time of the Revolution, restored by government, at 
 an expense of £50,000, and garrisoned, in order to keep 
 the Highlanders in subjection. It was still further im- 
 proved, in 1718, by the erection of a house for the 
 governor ; and the whole of the buildings, called Fort- 
 George, formed a royal garrison under a governor chosen 
 by the crown, an appointment held always by one of 
 Vol. I.— 593 
 
 the principal of the nobility, and which, though it sub- 
 sequently became merely nominal, was possessed by the 
 Gordon family till the death of the last duke, in 1836. 
 In 1745, the castle was assaulted by the forces under 
 the command of Charles Edward, the Young Pretender, 
 by whom it was taken and destroyed. That prince, on 
 the night last but one before the battle of CuUoden, 
 which took place near the town, slept at the house of 
 Lady Drummuir, in Church-street ; and on the night 
 after the battle, the Duke of Cumberland, who made 
 Inverness his head-quarters, slept in the same house, 
 which appears to have been almost the only one of any 
 importance in the place. The circulation of money by 
 the troops of the duke during their stay in the town, 
 appears to have contributed greatly to its restoration 
 from that state of decay into which, from the time of 
 the Revolution, it had been gradually falling. The walls 
 of the royal castle, which remained nearly entire for 
 some years, have been removed, and the site converted 
 into a bowling-green. During Her Majesty's stay in 
 Scotland in the autumn of 1847, the town of Inverness 
 was visited by His Royal Highness Prince Albert, who 
 on the same day dined with Mr. Baillie, M.P. for the 
 county, at Dochfour : in the evening the prince paid a 
 second visit to the town, for the purpose of attending 
 the grand annual ball of the Northern Meeting, after 
 which he returned to Dochfour, where he passed the 
 night. Towards the end of January 1849, an inunda- 
 tion of the river caused great damage. The fine old 
 bridge was swept away, and the streets on both sides of 
 the river were flooded, in some places to the depth of 
 five feet ; a third part of the town was submerged, and 
 upwards of 1000 people were with difficulty rescued in 
 open boats. The damage done to the Caledonian canal 
 was estimated at £10,000. 
 
 The TOWN is situated chiefly on the east bank of the 
 river Ness, near its influx into the Moray Firth, and 
 consists of several well-formed and spacious streets, 
 crossing each other at right angles. In general the 
 houses are substantial and well built, and many are large 
 and of handsome appearance, the residence of opulent 
 families ; the streets are paved with granite, and the 
 foot-paths laid with Caithness flags. Inverness is lighted 
 with gas from works erected at an expense of £8*57, 
 by a company established under an act of parliament ; 
 and the inhabitants are supplied with water raised from 
 the river by machinery, and distributed to the houses 
 by pipes. In 1847 an act was passed for better supply- 
 ing the town and suburbs with gas and water. There 
 are several subscription and circulating libraries, and 
 two public reading and news rooms, all well furnished 
 with newspapers, and the most interesting periodical 
 works. The Northern Institution for the promotion of 
 science and literature, established here in 18'25, has been 
 discontinued ; and its valuable library, and museum of 
 antiquities and natural curiosities, have been presented to 
 the directors of the Inverness Academy, for the use of 
 the pupils. In Church-street is a plain neat building 
 called the Northern Meeting Rooms, containing an ele- 
 gant ball-room, in which card and dancing assemblies 
 are held, a spacious dining-room, and other rooms, in 
 which public meetings take place. Leading from the 
 extremity of the High -street, was a handsome bridge of 
 stone, of seven arches, erected in 1685-88, by subscrip- 
 tion, at a cost of £1300, and connecting the principal 
 
 4 G
 
 I N V E 
 
 I N V E 
 
 part of the town with that portion of it which lies on 
 the west bank of the river, and with the various suburbs 
 in that vicinity. This bridge was destroyed by an in- 
 undation of the river, as above mentioned, in 1849. 
 Higher up is the new bridge, of wood, built in 1808, by 
 private subscription, at an expense of £4000. The en- 
 virons abound with interesting and pleasing scenery. 
 In the river, which is here of great breadth, are two 
 picturesque islands, beautifully laid out in lawns, shrub- 
 beries, and walks, connected with the opposite banks of 
 the stream by suspension-bridges, and forming delightful 
 promenades. The neighbourhood of Inverness is re- 
 markable for the luxuriance of its gardens, fields, and 
 plantations, presenting a great variety and richness ; and 
 the mountain screens are fine and various : each ovitlet 
 is different from the others, and each is beautiful ; while 
 a short and commodious ferry connects the town with 
 the lovely country opposite. " It is the boast of Inver- 
 ness," says Dr. MaccuUoch, " to unite two opposite quali- 
 ties, the characters of a rich open Lowland country with 
 those of the wildest Alpine scenery, both being close at 
 hand, and in many places intermixed ; while to all this is 
 added a series of maritime landscape not often equalled." 
 There are several good family hotels in the town, of 
 which the Caledonian hotel is very extensive, and ele- 
 gantly fitted up ; also numerous commodious inns and 
 lodging-houses. An act was passed in 1846 authorizing 
 the construction of a railway to Aberdeen. 
 
 The chief manufacture carried on is that of cloth for 
 bags, sacking, and tarpaulins, for the London market, 
 and for exportation to the East and "West Indies : about 
 300 persons are employed in this manufacture, of whom 
 more than half are women. The weaving of Highland 
 plaids and tartans is also pursued to a small extent, 
 affording occupation to twenty-five persons. There are 
 three tanneries, a distillery, and two public breweries ; 
 and about 100 families are supported by the sawing of 
 timber. The trade of the port consists chiefly in the 
 exportation of wool, grain, and hempen cloths ; and the 
 importation of hemp and timber from the Baltic, and 
 tar from Archangel, of which last, upon an average, 
 from 400 to 600 tons are annually landed. There are 
 six vessels belonging to the port, of 130 tons' average 
 burthen, employed in the trade with London ; three in 
 that of Leith ; and two in that of Aberdeen. Since the 
 completion of the Caledonian canal, the commerce of 
 the town has been greatly extended, a direct line of in- 
 tercourse having been thus opened with Glasgow and 
 Liverpool, and with the manufacturing districts in their 
 vicinity. The jurisdiction of the port, which embraces a 
 large district, extends from the mouth of the river Spey 
 to Dornoch Firth on the east, and from Assynt Point to 
 Ardnamurchan on the west. The aggregate tonnage of 
 the registered shipping of the whole district, in 1848, 
 was 10,882 tons, chiefly belonging to this place : the 
 custom duties in the year 1848 amounted to £6852. 
 Inverness harbour, at the mouth of the river, is acces- 
 sible to vessels of 250 tons ; and ships of 500 tons can 
 anchor with safety in the Kessock roads, or deliver their 
 cargoes at the wharfs of the Caledonian canal, within a 
 mile of the town. An act was passed in 184/ for im- 
 proving the harbour and the navigation of the river, and 
 regulating the anchorage and shore dues. During the 
 summer months, steam-vessels sail regularly from In- 
 verness to Leith, Aberdeen, and London. Ship-building 
 594 
 
 has within the last few years been introduced, and is 
 carried on upon a moderate scale. The market-days are 
 Tuesday and Friday, when butchers' meat, eggs, and 
 poultry, and garden and agricultural produce of every 
 kind, are exposed for sale in great abundance. Fairs 
 are held in February, July, August, and November, for 
 cattle, horses, butter, cheese, home-made stuffs, and 
 various other kinds of merchandise. The July fair is 
 attended by the principal Highland sheep-farmers, and 
 by the South-of-Scotland and English wool-staplers, 
 when not less than 100,000 head of sheep, and an equal 
 number of stones of wool, are generally sold. The ex- 
 change, situated near the town-hall, is a neat building, 
 well adapted for its use ; and the old cross, in front of 
 it, is still in good preservation. 
 
 The Caledonian Canal, which extends from Inver- 
 ness on the north-east to Corpach, near Fort-William, 
 on the south-west, intersects Scotland from sea to sea. 
 It passes for eight miles within the parish ; and its entire 
 length is sixty miles and a half, of which twenty-three 
 miles have been formed by excavation, and the remainder 
 consists of a succession of three natural lakes, Loch 
 Ness, Loch Oich, and Loch Lochy. The canal is 120 feet 
 wide at the top, fifty at the bottom, and the full depth 
 of water corresponding to these dimensions was proposed 
 to be as much as twenty feet ; but the works were not 
 completed to afford a greater practicable depth than about 
 thirteen or fourteen feet. There are twenty-eight locks 
 on the line, fourteen ascending to, and fourteen descend- 
 ing from, the summit level in Loch Oich, which is about 
 ninety-five feet above ordinary high-water at Inverness. 
 The locks are 1*0 feet long, by forty in breadth, the rise 
 in most cases being eight feet ; and the bridges are of 
 cast-iron, and swing horizontally. Acts for the con- 
 struction of the canal were passed in 1803 and 1804; 
 the works were commenced under the superintendence 
 of Mr. Telford, in 1805 ; and after an expenditure of 
 nearly £1,000,000, the navigation was opened in 1822, 
 in the unfinished state already mentioned. The rate of 
 tonnage-duty, levied on sailing-vessels or steam-boats 
 laden or unladen, passing along the canal in either 
 direction, is one farthing per ton per mile ; there being 
 no dues chargeable upon goods of any description. The 
 produce of the rate amounted, for the year ending 
 30th April, 1842, to £2*23 ; and the number of passages 
 made by vessels during that period was 1350. Since 
 then, the navigation has only been partially open, at 
 irregular intervals, owing to the works not being in a 
 perfect state. The defective and unsatisfactory condition 
 of the canal has, however, of late engaged the serious 
 attention of government ; and nautical and engineering 
 surveys and reports have been made by Sir Edward 
 Parry and Mr. Walker, who concurred in recommending 
 the efficient repair and completion of the works, with 
 the establishment of steam tug-boats and other facilities 
 for the accommodation of the larger classes of commercial 
 shipping. The estimated expense of these operations was 
 about £200,000, towards which the sum of £105,000 was 
 voted by parliament up to 1844 ; and a contract was 
 entered into for the engineering details, amounting to 
 £136,000, to occupy a period of three years from their 
 commencement in October 1843. The passage from 
 sea to sea was obliged to be interrupted during their 
 progress ; but parts of the canal were directed to be 
 kept open, and made available for the local trafific.
 
 I N V E 
 
 I N VE 
 
 
 Burgh Seal. 
 
 The town was made a 
 ROVAL BURGii by charter of 
 David I. ; and additional pri- 
 vileges were granted by suc- 
 %■ ceeding monarcbs to the time 
 of James VI., under whose 
 charter in 1591 the govern- 
 ment is vested in a provost, 
 four bailies, a dean of guild, 
 a treasurer, and fourteen 
 councillors. The councillors 
 were formerly elected by a 
 majority of their own body, 
 five of whom retired every year, and were replaced : the 
 provost, bailies, dean of guild, and treasurer remained 
 members of the council for one year after the expiration 
 of their office, and of course were not of the number 
 that retired. There are six incorporated trades, viz., the 
 hammermen, wrights and coopers, shoemakers, tailors, 
 weavers, and skinners, into one of which a person must 
 enter before he is eligible to the council or magistracy ; 
 the fees of admission vary from £1. 1. to £3 for sons of 
 freemen, for apprentices from £5 to £6, and for strangers 
 from £'20 to £30. An act of parliament was passed in 
 1847, for eistablishing a general system of police in the 
 burgh, for regulating the petty customs, and for other 
 purposes. The magistrates hold courts, with jurisdiction 
 equivalent to that of the sheriff, for the determination of 
 civil pleas, and the trial of criminal offences, in which 
 the town-clerk acts as assessor : the average number of 
 civil causes tried annually is forty, of from £2 to £20 in 
 amount ; and of criminal causes two. There is also a 
 court held by the dean of guild, as well as a sheriff's 
 court for the recovery of small debts. In conjunction 
 with the burghs of Forres, Fortrose, and Nairn, the burgh 
 of Inverness returns a member to the imperial parlia- 
 ment. The town-hall, at the extremity of Church-street, 
 was erected in 1708, and contains the necessary accom- 
 modations for transacting the public business : the gaol, 
 erected in 1*91, has a handsome spire 150 feet in height, 
 but is ill adapted for the classification of the prisoners. 
 The county-hall, situated on the Castle Hill, is a good 
 building in the castellated style, erected at an expense of 
 £7000, after a design by Mr. Burn, of Edinburgh, and 
 has the requisite court-rooms and offices : immediately 
 adjoining is a site reserved for the erection of a new gaol 
 for the county and the town. From the upper windows 
 of the county-hall is obtained a view of one of the most 
 magnificent landscapes in Scotland. 
 
 The PARISH extends along the coast of the Moray 
 and Beauly Firths, and is about fourteen miles in length 
 and two and a half in average breadth, comprising an 
 area of 1'2,000 acres, whereof 9000 are arable, and the 
 remainder, of which 1000 might be brought into culti- 
 vation, woodland, ])lantations, and waste. The surface, 
 a considerable portion of which, forming part of the 
 Caledonian valley, or great Glen of Albin, is tolerably 
 level, is diversified on each side by the mountainous 
 chains that bound the vale, and which, towards the 
 coast, decrease in height. These mountains subside on 
 the east into a smooth ridge having an elevation of 
 about 400 feet, and on the west divide into groups of 
 picturesque hills, terminating in Craig-Phadric, a re- 
 markable elevation with a tabular summit, the ascent to 
 which is by precipitous and rugged acclivities. Along 
 595 
 
 the line of coast, which is marked with bays of gentle 
 curvature, is a level tract of rich land in the best state 
 of cultivation ; and most of the higher grounds are 
 beautifully ornamented with luxuriant woods, and plan- 
 tations of Scotch fir, larch, ash, elm, beech, and oak. 
 The river Ness has its source in Loch Ness, and after 
 a course of eight miles, flows through the parish into 
 the bay opposite Kessoch point, between the Moray and 
 Beauly Firths : there are also numerous rivulets, several 
 of which in their progress form picturesque cascades. 
 The Ness formerly abounded with salmon, and the fish- 
 eries on it produced a rental of £1100 per annum, 
 which, within the last thirty or forty years, has been 
 reduced to £370 ; and there is a prospect of a still fur- 
 ther reduction. A few herrings or coal-fish are occa- 
 sionally taken on the sea-shore. The prevailing scenery 
 is marked with features, in some parts of grandeur, and 
 in others of romantic beauty ; and the views from the 
 higher grounds are extensive and richly varied. Nume- 
 rous handsome seats of the gentry are situated in the 
 glens, and on the elevated ridges that intersect the 
 parish; and the pleasing hamlets of their tenantry are 
 scattered through the various districts. There are also 
 many tastefully ornamented villas in the immediate 
 neighbourhood of the town. In the upper lands the 
 SOIL is light and sandy, resting on a substratum of 
 gravel ; and in the lower lands, a deep rich loam, inter- 
 mixed with clay : the crops are wheat, barley, oats, hay, 
 and the usual green crops. The system of agriculture 
 is advanced; the lands are well inclosed with fences of 
 stone or hedges, and the farm houses and offices are 
 generally substantial and commodious. Tracts of waste 
 land have been reclaimed and brought into profitable 
 cultivation, and all the more recent improvements in 
 implements of husbandry have been adopted. The cattle 
 are usually of a mixed breed, partaking of the Old High- 
 land, Moray, and Ayrshire kinds ; and considerable 
 attention is paid in rearing them for the dairy, and also 
 for the market. There are some quarries of red and of 
 grey sandstone, which are wrought to a moderate extent, 
 chiefly for domestic purposes. The annual value of real 
 property in the parish is £30,258, including £10,500 for 
 the burgh. Among the gentlemen's seats are Cullodeu 
 House, Raigmore House, Newcastle, the Inches, Culdu- 
 thel, Dochfour, Dunain, and Muirtown, all beautifully 
 situated in richly-planted demesnes. 
 
 This parish, with which that of Bona was united at a 
 time not distinctly known, is the head of the presbytery 
 of Inverness, in the synod of Moray. There ai-e three 
 parochial ministers, who officiate in the two ancient 
 churches. The first and second have each a stipend of 
 £'276. 10., with a small allowance in lieu of the manses, 
 which, being ruinous, were sold for inconsiderable sums, 
 of which they receive the interest respectively ; and the 
 proceeds of the glebe, amounting to £100 per annum, 
 are equally divided between them. The third minister 
 has a stipend of £'200, part of which is paid from the 
 exchequer ; but he has neither manse nor glebe. Of 
 the two old churches, the one called the High church, 
 in which divine service is performed only in the English 
 language, was built in 177'2; it is a plain edifice con- 
 taining 1'260 sittings, and has an ancient square tower, 
 said to have been erected by Oliver Cromwell. The 
 other, called the Gaelic church, because the service is 
 performed in that language, was built in 1794, and is 
 
 4 G 2
 
 I N V E 
 
 I N V E 
 
 also a plain structure, contaiaing l'-220 sittings. The 
 patronage is in the Crown and Lord Lovat ; but the 
 latter has transferred his portion of it, during his life, 
 to Professor Scott, of King's College, Aberdeen. The 
 former quoad sacra parish of North Church was sepa- 
 rated from the parish of Inverness under act of the Ge- 
 neral Assembly : the church, erected in 1837, at a cost of 
 £1400, raised by subscription, aided by a grant from 
 the Assembly, is a neat structure containing 1033 sit- 
 tings. The former quoad sacra parish of East Inverness 
 was nearly five miles in length and about two miles in 
 extreme breadth, comprising an area of 5000 acres, and 
 including an extensive rural district : the church, built 
 in 1798, at a cost of £1400, by subscription, and altered 
 and repaired in 1822, has 1177 sittings. There is a 
 preaching station in the ancient parish of Bona, where 
 divine service is performed by the assistant of one of the 
 ministers of the parish. The episcopal chapel, erected 
 in 1801, at a cost of £1000, is a neat building; and 
 there are places of worship for the United Presbyterian 
 Church, Independents, and Wesleyans ; and a Roman 
 Catholic chapel, erected in 1836, at an expense of £'2000. 
 There are also places of worship for members of the 
 Free Church. 
 
 The old burgh grammar school has long merged into 
 the RoijLil Academy, founded in 1792, for the education 
 of children in the higher classes of the Highland popu- 
 lation ; incorporated by royal charter ; and endowed by 
 liberal subscriptions, and the transfer of the funds ap- 
 propriated by the burgh to the support of the old 
 grammar school. To these sources of income has been 
 added a munificent bequest of property, now amounting 
 to £26,794, by Captain William Macintosh, of Farr, in 
 1S03, for the education of boys of that name, of the 
 families of Farr, Holm, Dalmigavie, and Kellachy, or 
 the nearest of kin ; of whom there are nearly forty in 
 the establishment. The academy is under the direction 
 of the provost and magistrates of ttfe burgh, the sherifiF 
 of the county, the moderator of the presbytery, and a 
 committee of five persons chosen annually from the 
 subscribers ; and the instruction is given by a rector, 
 who has a salary of £250 per annum, without any fees, 
 and four classical and other masters, who, in addition 
 to their fees, have salaries varying from £30 to £40 
 each. The course of studies consists of the classics, 
 mathematics, the elements of chemistry, natural history, 
 and philosophy, with all the branches of a commercial 
 education. There are at present about 300 pupils. Mr. 
 John Raining, of Norwich, in 1747, bequeathed £1000 
 to the General Assembly, for the foundation of a school, 
 which has been established here, and placed under the 
 direction of the Society for Propagating Christian Know- 
 ledge : it has two masters, who receive salaries of £48 
 and £40 per annum, respectively, with a house and gar- 
 den each ; and the number of pupils is 250. Two other 
 schools in the parish, the masters of which have salaries 
 of £17 and £15 each, are supported by the same society. 
 A large school, likewise, has lately been erected by the 
 magistrates, to whom the Rev. Dr. Bell bequeathed 
 £10,000, in trust, for the foundation and support of 
 schools on the Madras system. 
 
 The Injirmanj, to which a lunatic asylum is attached, 
 
 was founded in 1804, chiefly through the exertions of 
 
 the provost, William Inglis, Esq., and is supported by 
 
 subscriptions and donations. It is under the general 
 
 596 
 
 direction of the magistrates of the burgh, the sheriff of 
 the county, the moderator of the presbytery, the minis- 
 ters of the parish, and a committee of subscribers annu- 
 ally chosen ; the medical department being superintended 
 by the faculty, who visit the institution gratuitously, by 
 a resident house-surgeon and apothecary, a matron, 
 nurses, and the requisite attendants. The buildings, 
 which are pleasantly situated on the west bank of the 
 river, beyond the town, form a handsome and spacious 
 structure, including a distinct arrangement for the 
 asylum, which is detached from the infirmary. The 
 latter contains numerous airy and well-ventilated wards 
 for the various classes of patients, with hot and cold 
 baths. The Dispensary , situated on Muirtown Green, 
 was established in 1832, for administering advice and 
 medicines to the poor, and has atforded extensive relief; 
 it is wholly supported by subscription. There are also 
 several benefit societies in the town, which have tended 
 to diminish the number of applications for parochial 
 relief. Mr. Jonatliait Anderson, of Glasgow, bequeathed 
 to the magistrates property now amounting to £3845 ; 
 and Mr. Klien, also, bequeathed £1000, the interest of 
 which is distributed annually among decayed house- 
 holders. The United Charitable Institntions, for which a 
 neat building has been erected on an eminence to the 
 south of the Castle Hill, include an infant school, a 
 female school, a female work society, and an association 
 for the distribution of blankets and clothing to the poor: 
 it is proposed to add a tower to the building, fitted up 
 for an observatory. 
 
 Above the village of Clachnaharry, westward of the 
 town, are some rocky eminences called the Watchman' s 
 Stones, where anciently a guard was stationed to give 
 notice of the approach of any hostile force, and on one 
 of which a lofty column was erected by the late H. R. 
 Duff, Esq., of Muirtown, to commemorate a sanguinary 
 conflict that took place in 1333, between the clan 
 Chattan and the Monroes of Fowlis. Near these emi- 
 nences is the hill of Craig Pliadric, on the summit of 
 which, at an elevation of 435 feet above the level of the 
 sea, is a vitrified fortress with a double vallum, exhibiting 
 heaps of boulder stones strongly cemented by fire. It 
 was connected with a chain of similar fortresses extend- 
 ing in various directions into the centre of the county, 
 and upon which beacon-fires were anciently lighted, to 
 convey signals to neighbouring parts. To the west of 
 Craig Phadric is a high gravelly ridge called Tor-a- 
 Bhean, supposed to contain the tomb of Donald Bane, 
 a chieftain of the Hebrides, who in 1187, at the head 
 of a body of islanders, encountered Duncan Macintosh, 
 son of the governor of Inverness Castle, when a severe 
 conflict ensued, in which both were killed. Near the 
 base of this ridge, on the shore of the Caledonian canal, 
 a massive silver chain of thirty-three double circular 
 links was found in 1808, weighing 104 ounces, and 
 thought to have been worn by that island-chief as an 
 ensign of office : it is now in the museum of the Society 
 of Antiquaries, Edinburgh. On the margin of Loch 
 Dochfour are the remains of the church of Buna ; and 
 between Loch Dochfour and Loch Ness is a quadrilateral 
 inclosure, rounded at the angles, supposed to have been 
 a Roman camp, and on the highest point of which are 
 the ruins of a fort commanding the fords across the 
 river Ness. In the same vicinity are numerous sepul- 
 chral tumuli. The eastern portion of the parish con-
 
 I N V E 
 
 I N VE 
 
 tains part of the memorable field on which the battle of 
 Culloden was fought ; and bordering on the parish of 
 Croy are many cairns, and various circles that are sup- 
 posed to be Druidical. Near the mouth of the river 
 Ness is Cairn Arc, a large pile of stones, in the Moray 
 Firth ; and in Beauly Firth are several similar cairns, 
 which are corroborative of the opinion, not unsustained 
 by facts, that the sea has made considerable encroach- 
 ments on this part of the coast. The late Duke of 
 Sussex bore the inferior title of Earl of Inverness ; and 
 the place at present gives the title of Duchess to the 
 widow of his royal highness. 
 
 INVERNESS-SHIRE, an extensive county, in the 
 north of Scotland, bounded on the north by Ross-shire 
 and the Moray Firth ; on the east, by the counties of 
 Nairn, Elgin, Banff, and Aberdeen ; on the south, by 
 Perthshire and the county of Argyll ; and on the west, 
 by the Atlantic Ocean. It lies between 56° 54' and 
 57° 50' (N. Lat.), and 4° '20' 10" and 6° 35' (W. Lon.), 
 and is about ninety miles in length, and nearly eighty in 
 extreme breadth ; comprising an area of 7200 square 
 miles, or 4,608,000 acres, exclusive of the several islands 
 attached to it ; and containing, according to the last 
 census, 19,779 houses, of which 19,194 are inhabited; 
 and a population of 97,799, of whom 45,538 are males 
 and 52,261 females. This county, which takes its name 
 from its chief town, originally formed the western por- 
 tion of the ancient province of Moray, and, prior to the 
 union of the Scottish and Pictish kingdoms under Ken- 
 neth II., was inhabited by the Picts, who are said to have 
 had frequent battles with the Danes, by whom their 
 territories were invaded. The town of Inverness is 
 thought to have been the residence of the Pictish kings, 
 and is so identified with the historical events of the 
 county as to render any notice of them here superfluous. 
 Prior to the abolition of episcopacy, the county was part 
 of the diocese of Moray ; it is now included in the 
 synods of Moray, Ross, and Glenelg, containing several 
 presbyteries, and about forty-five parishes. For civil 
 purposes, it is under the superintendence of four sheriffs- 
 substitute, appointed by the sheriff, and who hold their 
 courts respectively at Inverness, Fort-William, Skye, 
 and Long Island. The county contains the villages of 
 Fort-George, Fort-Augustus, Portree, Grantown, Camp- 
 belton, Kingussie, Beauly, and several others. Under 
 the act of the 2nd and 3rd of William IV., it returns 
 one member to the imperial parliament : the constituency 
 numbers 850. 
 
 The SURFACE is strikingly diversified by wild and 
 lofty mountains interspersed with deep and narrow 
 glens, and by numerous ridges of hills inclosing valleys 
 of various width and aspect. The mainland is divided 
 into two nearly equal parts by the vale of Glenmore, 
 which intersects it throughout in a direction from 
 north-east to south-west, reaching from the Moray 
 Firth to Loch Eil, and containing a succession of lakes, 
 by the connecting of which the great Caledonian canal 
 has been formed. On both sides of this valley are a 
 number of straths, separated by mountainous ridges, and 
 all watered by streams descending from the heights. 
 The country on the west of Glenmore, between it and 
 the Atlantic, is the more extensive and mountainous, 
 constituting the Highland district ; that on the east is 
 the Lowland district, and, though in many parts of wild 
 appearance, is in a better state of cultivation. The coast 
 597 
 
 is indented with a variety of inlets from the sea, forming 
 salt-water lochs, several of which, on the south-west, 
 separate it from the county of Argyll ; and in addition 
 to the districts of Badenoch, Lochaber, Glenelg, Glen- 
 garry, Arisaig, Moydart, and Strathglass, into which the 
 main land is naturally divided, the county contains the 
 Isle of Skye, part of Lewis, North and South Uist, Ben- 
 becula, Barra, Eigg, Eriskay, Bernera, and others of the 
 Hebrides. Among the mountains are, Ben-Nevis, which 
 has an elevation of 4370 feet above the level of the sea ; 
 Mealfourvonie, which rises to the height of 3600 feet ; 
 and Scarsough, 3412 feet. 
 
 The chief rivers are the Ness and the Spey. The river 
 Ness issues from Loch Ness, in the valley of Glenmore, 
 and taking a north-eastern course for a few miles, falls 
 into the Moray Firth, forming the harbour of Inverness, 
 to which town it gives its name. The river Spey has its 
 source in Loch Spey, in the district of Badenoch ; and 
 flowing eastward with great rapidity, and receiving nu- 
 merous tributary streams in its long and winding course 
 through the strath to which it gives name, it passes 
 the village of Rothes, and diverting its course towards 
 the north, falls into the Moray Firth at Garraouth. Of 
 the smaller rivers, the Beauly, the Foyers, and the Garry 
 only are deserving of any particular description. The 
 Beauly has its source in the continence of the rivulets 
 Farrar, Carrick, and Glass, which give their names to 
 the straths they flow through : after a course of about 
 eight miles between rocky and precipitous banks, in 
 which it makes some beautiful falls (the chief one being at 
 Kilmorack), it runs into Beauly Firth. The Foyers rises 
 in the mountainous district of Badenoch, and after a 
 course of ten miles through a tract of country abounding 
 in romantic scenery, joins Loch Ness. In its progress 
 it makes some highly-picturesque cascades. At one 
 part, its waters form three successive descents together 
 from a height of above 200 feet into a pool beneath, 
 beyond which the stream, flowing along a narrow rocky 
 channel, falls from an elevation of more than 212 feet 
 in one unbroken sheet, which, after heavy rains, has an 
 impressive grandeur of effect. The river Garry has its 
 source in a small lake of that name, nearly in the centre 
 of the county, and passing through the strath of Glen- 
 garry, runs into Loch Oich. The principal rivers, and 
 also their tributaries, abound with salmon. In this 
 county the lakes form a very important feature : the 
 chief of them are, Loch Ness, Loch Oich, and Loch 
 Lochy, which are situated in the valley of Glenmore, and 
 connected with each other by the Caledonian canal ; 
 Lochs Laggan, Treag, and Ericht, in the south ; Lochs 
 Affarie, Benevian, Clunie, and some others, in the north; 
 and Lochs Morir, Quoich, Arkaig, and Shiel, in the 
 western part of the county. The salt-water lochs, or 
 inlets from the sea, in the mainland, are Lochs Moidart, 
 Nevis, Hourn, and Beauly. 
 
 Of the lands not more than the one-twelfth part is un- 
 der cultivation, the remainder being either covered with 
 heath, or in mountain pasture. The soil on the level 
 grounds near the sea is chiefly clay alternated with 
 loam, and in some parts a fine rich black mould. In 
 some of the straths, also, between the mountain ridges, 
 the soil is extremely fertile, except in those parts where, 
 from the rapidity of the mountain streams, beds of gra- 
 vel accumulate. Tlie arable lands are in a good state of 
 cultivation, producing excellent crops of wheat, barley.
 
 
 I N V E 
 
 I N VE 
 
 oats, &c. : great quantities of potatoes are raised. The 
 system of agriculture has been very much improved, and 
 considerable tracts of waste land have been drained and 
 brought into cultivation : the farm houses and offices, 
 also, are generally substantial and well arranged ; but 
 the cottages of the labourers are very indifferent. Many 
 of the farms are of course in pasture, and the breed of 
 cattle and sheep has of late been an object of considera- 
 ble attention : the cattle, which may be averaged at 
 .50,000, are principally of the Skye or the Kyloe breed ; 
 the sheep, of which from 120,000 to 130,000 are pastured 
 on the different farms, are of the Linton and Cheviot 
 breeds. The horses, previously to the increase of the 
 sheep-pastures, were of the Old Highland breed ; but 
 the number has been greatly reduced, and those which 
 are now reared, chiefly for purposes of husbandry, are 
 of various kinds, according to the choice of the different 
 proprietors, who breed them only for their own use. 
 Considerable numbers of swine have been lately reared 
 in several parts, the Highlanders having in a great mea- 
 sure overcome their wonted prejudices against that kind 
 of food ; and the stock has been improved by the intro- 
 duction of the Chinese breed. 
 
 The whole county appears to have been at a remote 
 period covered with woods ; and in most of the mosses, 
 some of which are very extensive, there are found 
 trunks of trees. In Glenmore and Strathspey are not 
 less than 15,000 acres of natural fir, exclusive of 70,000 
 acres of modern plantations of firs and larch ; and in 
 other parts of the county are most extensive and flou- 
 rishing plantations of fir, larch, beech, plane, and oak, 
 of which last there are some carefully-preserved woods 
 at Lochiel and Fasfern. The substrata are principally 
 _ limestone, freestone, and granite : the limestone abounds 
 in many places, yet, from the scarcity of fuel, little of it 
 is burnt into lime, which for agricultural purposes is 
 chiefly imported. Slate of durable texture is quarried, 
 and great quantities of it are shipped off: a quarry of 
 grey slate was opened at Aultmore, but of too porous a 
 texture for roofing. Marble of every variety of colour, 
 and of excellent quality, is found in Ben-Nevis and in 
 most of the islands ; and common granite, of which the 
 hills principally consist, is extensively quarried. A dark- 
 coloured granite occurs in many places, in large blocks 
 with scarcely any fissures, and is much esteemed for or- 
 namental buildings ; and a variegated kind of granite, 
 with black, white, and red spots, which sparkle in the 
 sun, is found in Badenoch. Freestone of a reddish 
 colour, of compact texture, and susceptible of a high de- 
 gree of polish, is met with on the lands of Lovatt ; but 
 no sandstone occurs in the county. There are some 
 indications of coal ; but the only mineral worked is lead- 
 ore, of which there are mines in Ben-Nevis, at Inver- 
 skaddel, near Loch Arkaig. Glengarry, and other places. 
 Black-lead, of good quality for pencils, is also found, 
 but is not wrought : there is clay for bricks and tiles 
 along the coast. In this county the gentlemen's seats are, 
 Castle-Grant, Dunvegan, Castle Mc Leod, Erchless 
 Castle, Fasfern, Lochiel, Beaufort, Belladrum,Rothiemur- 
 chus, Kinrara, Farraline, Belville, Glengarry, Dalchully, 
 and others. 
 
 The principal manufactures are those of hemp, thread 
 of various colours, kelp, bricks, and tiles; and some 
 branches of the woollen manufacture, chiefly for domes- 
 tic use, and confined to private families. There are 
 598 
 
 several bleaching and print fields, tanneries, breweries, 
 and distilleries ; and at Inverness, and other places on 
 the coast, a considerable trade is carried on in the ex- 
 portation of cattle, sheep, wool, timber, and slates, and 
 in the importation of coal, lime, flour, oatmeal, groceries, 
 and other articles for home consumption. There are 
 valuable salmon-fisheries on the rivers ; the herring- 
 fisheries, also, employ a number of the inhabitants on 
 the western coast of the county. Facility of communica- 
 tion is afforded by several good roads that have been 
 formed throughout the interior ; and the great Caledo- 
 nian canal, which intersects the county from north-east 
 to south-west, passing through the valley of Glenmore 
 for more than sixty miles, and connecting the German 
 Ocean with the Atlantic, offers means of inland naviga- 
 tion for ships of considerable burthen, and facility for the 
 conveyance of produce of all kinds. The annual value 
 of real property in the county is £1S'2,064, of which 
 £161,499 are returned for lands, £17,^94 for houses, 
 £2596 for fisheries, and £75 for quarries. 
 
 Among the various remains of antiquity are the 
 ruins of ancient fortresses consisting of stones of enor- 
 mous size, placed together without cement of any kind. 
 They are generally of circular or elliptical form, contain- 
 ing, between two concentric walls, a considerable inter- 
 val supposed to have been used for keeping military and 
 other stores : the area within the inner wall, which alone 
 was pierced with windows, is thought to have been oc- 
 cupied by the garrison. Of these fortresses the three 
 most perfect are at Glenelg, Castle-Spynie, in the dis- 
 trict of Aird, and Dun-da-law, in Badenoch. On the 
 summit of Craig-Phadric are the remains of a vitrified 
 fort of elliptical form, of which the longer diameter is 
 220 feet, and the shorter little more than half that 
 length ; and near Fort-William are the remains of a 
 similar fortress, called Dunghairdghall. Upon the east 
 bank of the river Lochy are the remains of Inverlochy 
 Castle, a square structure with circular towers at the 
 angles, surrounded by a ditch inclosing an area of 7000 
 square yards. On the summit of a precipitous rock 
 that divides the channel of the Lochy, are the ruins of 
 Tor Castle ; and on a projecting rock on the west side 
 of Loch Ness, are the remains of LTrquhart Castle, which 
 was taken in 1303 by Edward I. of England, who, exas- 
 perated at the obstinate and protracted defence, put the 
 governor and the whole of the garrison to the sword. 
 The roads of Glenroy, consisting of three parallel lines 
 on one side of the river, opposite to three similar lines 
 on the other, are most probably natural, though some 
 suppose them to have been made for the purpose of 
 hunting. There are several Druidical remains ; and in 
 the Firth of Beaulv are some ancient cairns, two of which, 
 larger than the rest, rise above the surface of the water, 
 and have been found to contain beams of timber, and 
 human bones. 
 
 INVERNOCHTIE, in the county of Aberdeen.— 
 See Strathdon. 
 
 INVERTIEL, or Westbridge, for a time a quoad 
 sacra parish, partly in the parish of Abbotshall, and 
 partly in that of Kinghorn, district of Kirkcaldy, 
 county of Fife, 1 mile (S. W. by S.) from Kirkcaldy; 
 containing 1465 inhabitants. This district was esti- 
 mated to comprise 1000 acres, of which about 700 are in 
 tillage, 200 in pasture, and the remainder under planta- 
 tion. The substratum consists chiefly of brown sand-
 
 IN V E 
 
 I N V E 
 
 stone of the coal formation ; and coal was for some 
 time wrought, but no mines are at present in operation. 
 About "00 persons are employed in hand-loom weaving ; 
 and there is a flax-spinning mill, in which 100 hands are 
 engaged. The Firth of Forth lies on the south of the 
 parish, and the public road between Edinburgh and 
 Dundee runs close by the village. Invertiel was within 
 the presbytery of Kirkcaldy and synod of Fife, and the 
 patronage was vested in the heads of families being com- 
 municants : the stipend of the minister was £80, arising 
 from seat-rents and collections. The church, a plain 
 structure, was erected in 1S36-7, by subscription, aided 
 by a grant of £272 from the Church-Extension fund : 
 its erection removed, in a great measure, the inconve- 
 nience felt in the parish of Kinghorn from want of ac- 
 commodation and pastoral attendance. The members 
 of the Free Church have now possession of it, and the 
 village is included within the limits of the Free Church 
 presbytery of Kirkcaldy and synod of Fife. The 
 number of sittings in the building is 726. Sir Michael 
 Scott, a celebrated statesman and philosopher of the 
 thirteenth century, one of the most learned men of his 
 age, and called by the people of his times " the Wizard", 
 was born, and resided, at Balwearie, in this district: he 
 was knighted by Alexander II., and died in 1296. 
 
 INVERURY, a royal 
 
 burgh, and a parish, in the 
 
 district of Garioch, county of 
 
 Aberdeen, 16 miles (N. W.) 
 
 > ■ from Aberdeen, and 137 (N. 
 
 1^^ N. E.) from Edinburgh ; con- 
 
 vk taining 2020 inhabitants, of 
 
 whom 1619 are in the burgh. 
 
 This place, which derives its 
 
 name from its situation at 
 
 the confluence of the river 
 
 J, c ; > ^'^y ^''•^^ ^^^ Don, is of re- 
 
 Burgh Seal. ' ^^^^ antiquity, and, as part 
 
 of the lordship of Garioch, was granted by William the 
 Lion to his brother David, Earl of Huntingdon, youngest 
 son of David I. ; from whom King John Baliol, King 
 Robert Bruce, and the present royal family are de- 
 scended. Of the baronial castle of the earl, which occu- 
 pied a site near the Bass, and appears to have been the 
 first stronghold erected in the county, there are no re- 
 mains existing; but a charter of the date of 11*8 is still 
 extant, by which the earl granted the church of Inverury, 
 •with several others, to the abbey of Lindores. During 
 the wars with England in the reign of Edward I., Robert 
 Bruce, who had removed to this place from Sliach, in 
 Strathbogie, in a state of ill health, was attacked by the 
 English army under Cumyn, over whom he obtained a 
 signal victory, in acknowledgment of which he erected 
 the town of Inverury into a royal burgh. In 1745, a 
 battle occurred here between the forces of the Pretender 
 and the Macleods, the latter of whom Lord Loudon had 
 sent from the north, with a body of men, to relieve the 
 city of Aberdeen, at that time in the possession of the 
 rebels, who had imposed upon the inhabitants a tribute 
 of £1000. The Macleods, on their arrival at this place, 
 were attacked by Lord Lewis Gordon, who, with a force 
 of 1200 men, crossing the river Dry, surprised and 
 defeated them : there was, however, a sharp encounter, 
 in which many were killed and taken prisoners on both 
 sides. 
 
 599 
 
 The TOWN consists of irregularly built and detached 
 houses, scattered along the turnpike-road from Huntly 
 to Aberdeen. From the difficulty of access previously 
 to the existence of the bridge over the Don, which was 
 built at a cost of £2000 in 1791,the place was not much 
 more than an obscure village, and had neither any ma- 
 nufacture nor trade. Upon that event, however, it 
 became of some little importance. The construction of 
 the Aberdeen and Inverury canal, which was completed 
 in IS07, at a cost of £44,000, gave an additional impulse 
 to its trade ; and the subsequent erection of three bridges 
 at different points on the river Ury has supplied all that 
 was wanting to its prosperity in respect to means of 
 communication. Considerable improvements have since 
 taken place in the town, which is now lighted with gas. 
 The manufacture of linen is pursued to some extent, 
 affording employment to more than sixty of the inhabit- 
 ants. Various handicraft trades, also, are carried on for 
 the accommodation of the adjacent district ; and there 
 are several shops in the town well supplied with goods. 
 The increase of trade since the completion of the canal 
 has been very great ; and large quantities of grain, lime, 
 coal, salt, and other produce, are now sent to, or received 
 from, Port-Elphinstone, where the canal terminates, near 
 the bridge over the Don, on the opposite bank of the 
 river, in the parish of Kintore. The post-office has two 
 deliveries daily. Branches of the Aberdeen, the Town 
 and County, and the North of Scotland Banks have been 
 established ; and facility of communication is afforded 
 by good roads, and by the canal, on which an iron boat 
 for passengers and light goods plies daily to Aberdeen. 
 Fairs for cattle, sheep, horses, and grain are held monthly, 
 those at Whitsuntide and Martinmas being likewise for 
 hiring servants ; also every alternate Tuesday from the 
 first Tuesday in November till March. After the loss of 
 its original charter, the town was created a royal burgh 
 by charter of novodamus by Mary, Queen of Scots, in 
 1558 : the government is vested in a provost, three bai- 
 lies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and four councillors, 
 chosen under the regulations of the Municipal Reform 
 act. There are no incorporated trades ; but the guild 
 burgesses have an exclusive privilege of trading, and are 
 exempt from the payment of custom dues. The magis- 
 trates possess jurisdiction over the whole of the royalty, 
 and hold courts for civil actions to an unlimited amount, 
 and for the trial of petty delinquencies. Inverury is as- 
 sociated with Banff, CuUen, Elgin, Kintore, and Peter- 
 head, in returning a member to the imperial parliament ; 
 the number of qualified voters is 115. 
 
 The PARISH, which is bounded on the south by the 
 river Don, and on the north and east by the Ury, is 
 about four miles in extreme length and two miles in 
 breadth, comprising an area of 5100 acres, of which 
 3000 are arable, 1000 woodland and plantations, and the 
 remainder moorland pasture and waste. Its surface, 
 though level near the banks of the rivers, rises gradually 
 towards the west, terminating in the three nearly equi- 
 distant hills of Manar to the south, Knockinglew in the 
 centre, and Drimmies to the north, between which arc 
 some fine tracts of fertile vale. On the lower grounds 
 the soil is a rich light mould, superincumbent upon sand, 
 but on the higher grounds of less fertility ; the chief crops 
 raised are oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips, with the 
 usual grasses. The system of husbandry is improved, 
 and a rotation of crops is duly observed ; lime and bone-
 
 I O N A 
 
 I ON A 
 
 dust, for which the canal affords facility of conveyance, 
 are applied to the soil, and some of the unprofitable land 
 has been brought into cultivation. The Aberdeenshire 
 breed of cattle is that most prevalent, but on some farms 
 a few of the short-horned are reared ; a cross between 
 the short-horned and Aberdeenshire breeds is also in 
 high favour, and is rapidly increasing. No regular flock 
 of sheep is pastured ; some sheep of English breeds are 
 kept by different farmers for domestic use, and chiefly for 
 their wool. The annual value of real property in the 
 parish is £6395. The plantations are well attended to, 
 and are generally in a thriving state : there are consider- 
 able remains of ancient wood. The rocks are chiefly of 
 granite. Manar House is a substantial modern mansion, 
 beautifully situated on the southern acclivity of Manar 
 hill, commanding a fine view of the river Don, and sur- 
 rounded with plantations. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 limits of the presbytery of Garioch, synod of Aberdeen. 
 The minister's stipend is £257- IL, with a manse, and a 
 glebe valued at £15 per annum; patron, the Earl of Kin- 
 tore. Inverury old church, built in 1775. contained only 
 400 sittings, a number very inadequate to the increased 
 population ; and consequently, a new church, containing 
 1330 sittings, has been erected on its site by the heritors 
 and the burgh magistrates. The present structure is of 
 beautiful granite, in the later English style of architec- 
 ture. The burial-ground is situated near the river, where 
 the church stood previous to 1775. There are places of 
 worship for members of the Free Church, Independents, 
 and Wesleyans ; and an episcopal chapel. A Roman 
 Catholic seminary, formerly at Aquhorties, in this parish, 
 has been removed to Blairs, in the parish of Maryculter, 
 county of Kincardine ; and the building, beautifully situ- 
 ated, is at present a farm-house. Inverury parochial 
 school is attended by about ninety children ; the master 
 has a salary of £30, with a house and garden, and the 
 fees average £35 annually. The chief monuments of 
 antiquity are two tumuli, one of which, called the Bass, 
 and situated at the southern extremity of the town, is in 
 the form of a truncated cone, and is supposed to have 
 been a seat for the administration of justice ; the other, 
 called the Conyng hillock, is traditionally said to have 
 been raised over the remains of one of the Pictish kings. 
 There is also a very complete Druidical temple in a field 
 about two miles west of the burgh. Inverury gives the 
 title of Baron to the Earl of Kintore. 
 
 lONA, or IcoLMKiLL, an island of the Hebrides, and 
 a quoad sacra parish, in the parish of Kilfinichen, 
 district of Mull, county of Argyll; the quoad sacra 
 parish containing 1084 inhabitants, of whom 460 are on 
 the island, and the remainder in that part of the quoad 
 sacra parish which is in the Isle of Mull. lona, which 
 is situated to the south-west of the Isle of Mull, in the 
 Atlantic Ocean, is of remote antiquity ; and, at a very 
 early period, was the principal seat of the Druidical wor- 
 ship, from which circumstance it obtained the appellation 
 of Inish-Druinish, or the " Island of Druids". It was 
 subsequently occupied by the ancient Culdees, for whom, 
 it is recorded, Fergus II. erected a monastery and a 
 stately church, which became the burying-place of many 
 of his successors, kings of Scotland. Its name lona, 
 signifying, in the Gaelic language, the " Island of Waves", 
 appears to have been derived from the violent agitations 
 of the narrow sound that separates it from Mull ; that 
 600 
 
 of Icolmkill, by which it is not uncommonly known, 
 arose from the foundation of a religious establishment 
 by St. Columba, about the middle of the sixth century. 
 St. Columba, emigrating from Ireland, for the conversion 
 of the natives of the Hebrides to the Christian faith, 
 landed here with twelve of his companions in the year 
 563, and having converted many of the northern Picts 
 to Christianity, received from their king a grant of the 
 island, on which he founded a monastery for canons 
 regular of the order of St. Augustine. This monastery, 
 which was amply endowed, flourished under the superin- 
 tendence of its founder, and acquired such reputation for 
 sanctity and learning as to obtain for the isle the appel- 
 lation of the Holy Island, and to render it the resort of 
 pious and learned men from Ireland, Norway, and all 
 parts of Scotland, for which it was the principal school of 
 theology and philosophy. 
 
 St. Columba presided over the monastery he had 
 founded till his death in the year 597, at which time his 
 zeal for the propagation of Christianity had prompted 
 him to found, in various parts of Britain, 100 monasteries 
 and 365 churches, and to ordain not less than 3000 
 priests. The island hence became the grand centre from 
 which the truths of the Christian religion, and the bene- 
 fits of sound learning, were diffused to every portion of 
 the kingdom ; and after the death of St. Columba, the 
 monastery continued to flourish under his successors, 
 and was held in such veneration, that the island was 
 regarded as consecrated ground, and became the bury- 
 ing-place of many of the kings of Ireland and Norway. 
 From this monastery, which was independent of the 
 papal jurisdiction, and in which, under St. Columba and 
 his successors, the principles and discipline of the Cul- 
 dees were retained, Oswald, King of Northumbria, in 63'2 
 obtained a bishop to teach his subjects the principles of 
 Christianity ; and in 765 Neil Frasach, King of Ireland, 
 abdicated the sovereigntj', and retired to this island, 
 where he died. In 777 Asglal, son of the King of Con- 
 naught, became a monk of lona, which was still, and 
 continued for many years, the principal university of 
 Britain. To this celebrated institution the young 
 princes of Scotland and other kingdoms were sent to 
 receive their education. The monastery became subject 
 to the predatory incursions of the northern pirates, by 
 whom it was frequently plundered and laid waste ; and 
 in 797 it was burnt by the Danes, who, again, in 801 
 massacred nearly eighty of the monks, and compelled 
 the abbot and the rest to seek safety by flight. At a sub- 
 sequent period, the monastery of lona is recorded to have 
 been refounded for monks of the Cluniac order, under 
 whose superintendence it subsisted till the Dissolution ; 
 its revenues were then appropriated to the see of Ar- 
 gyll, and, after the abolition of episcopacy, became the 
 property of the dukes. 
 
 Of the ancient buildings connected with the monastery, 
 the principal remains are those of the abbey church, 
 which was also the cathedral of the bishops of the Isles, 
 and, with its tower, is almost entire. It is a cruciform 
 structure of red granite, chiefly in the Norman style, 160 
 feet in length, seventy feet across the transepts, and 
 twenty-four feet in mean breadth, with a tower rising 
 from the centre to the height of seventy feet. The choir, 
 which is sixty feet in length, is divided from the nave by 
 massive circular pillars, supporting the tower, and the 
 capitals of which are sculptured with grotesque figures.
 
 I ON A 
 
 I R V I 
 
 displaying scriptural allusions and other devices. The 
 nave and choir are separated from the aisles by ranges 
 of pillars of similar form, and obtusely-pointed arches, 
 sustaining the roof; and are lighted by a lower tier of 
 large windows of various character and inelegant design, 
 and by a range of clerestory w indows, some of which are 
 Norman, and others headed in trefoil. The high altar, 
 of marble brought from the Isle of Skye, unfortunately 
 acquired the reputation of possessing a charm against 
 shipwreck, and has totally disappeared by fragments. 
 Around the cathedral are divers ruins of walls, supposed 
 to have been chapels, and parts of the monastic buildings : 
 four of the arches of the cloister are still remaining, and 
 portions of the bishop's palace, the hall, and the refectory. 
 On the south side of the cathedral are the remains of 
 St. Oran's chapel, a rude edifice sixty feet in length, and 
 twenty-two feet broad, in a roofless state, but otherwise 
 in good preservation : the sculpture of the doorway, 
 which is a Norman arch with chevron mouldings, is espe- 
 cially worthy of attention. In the chapel are various 
 tombs of diflFerent periods, among which is that of St. 
 Oran, the disciple of St. Columba, a handsome monument, 
 apparently of much more recent date than the chapel. 
 On the north of this chapel are the ruins of the Nunnery, 
 or rather the chapel of the Nunnery, a structure in the 
 Norman style, nearly of the same dimensions as the cha- 
 pel of St. Oran ; part of the vaulted roof is still remaining, 
 and there are some very slender traces of the conventual 
 buildings. The tombstone of the Princess Anna, lady 
 abbess, is yet to be seen ; it bears the date 1543, and 
 presents a figure of the abbess, in the attitude of prayer 
 to the Virgin Mary, who has an infant in her arms, and 
 a mitre on her head. 
 
 To the south of St. Oran's chapel is the inclosure 
 called " Relig-Owran", or " the burying- place of Oran", 
 in which are a vast number of tombs, overgrown with 
 grass and weeds, and mostly so defaced as to render the 
 inscriptions on them altogether illegible. In this ceme- 
 tery it is said that one of the kings of France, four kings 
 of Ireland, eight kings of Norway, and forty-eight kings 
 of Scotland, are interred, the last commencing with Fer- 
 gus II. and ending with Macbeth, whose successor, 
 Malcolm Canmore, removed the place of royal sepulture 
 to Dunfermline. The precincts of the cemetery, which 
 contained also the tombs of the lords of the Isles, and of 
 the most distinguished families, had the privilege of 
 sanctuary ; and in various parts of the island were not 
 less than 360 crosses of stone, of which four only are 
 now left. At the time of the Reformation, the synod of 
 Argyll ordered sixty of these crosses to be thrown into 
 the sea ; and the remainder appear to have been either 
 wantonly destroyed, or suffered to fall from neglect. Of 
 those that remain, two are in a perfect state, one of which 
 is sculptured with figures of Adam and Eve, standing by 
 the forbidden tree ; a third has only ten feet of the shaft, 
 and of the fourth the foot only is left, embedded in a 
 mound of earth. In order to preserve all these venerable 
 remains from further injury, they have been inclosed 
 with walls by the Duke of Argyll, and placed under 
 the vigilant superintendence of a keeper. During Her 
 Majesty's visit to Scotland in 1847, the royal squa- 
 dron anchored in the Sound of lona, and His Royal 
 Highness Prince Albert proceeded to view the ruins. 
 
 The ISLAND is about three miles in extreme length, 
 and a mile and a half in average breadth, comprising an 
 Vol. I.— 601 
 
 area of 2000 acres, of which not more than 600 are 
 arable, and the remainder hill pasture, rock, or morass. 
 Its surface rises into eminences, the highest of which, 
 Dnn-ii, has an elevation of 400 feet above the level of 
 the sea. The coast on the eastern side is low and sandy, 
 and is indented with a bay, called the Bay of Martyrs, in 
 which were landed the bodies of such as were intended 
 for interment in the cemetery. This bay, which affords 
 good anchorage in five fathoms, within two cables' length 
 of the shore, is frequented by steamers conveying pas- 
 sengers to visit the island ; and near it is the vdlage, 
 containing about 170 persons. On the western shore of 
 the isle is Port-na-Currach, or the "bay of the boat", 
 where St. Columba is said to have landed, in com- 
 memoration of which event a heap of earth, about fifty 
 feet in length, was thrown up in the form of a boat, with 
 the keel upwards. Numerous small springs of excellent 
 water intersect the island ; and near the abbey gardens 
 are vestiges of an artificial lake of several acres, sur- 
 rounded by hills ; also the ruins of a mill. The soil of 
 the arable land is light and sandy, but fertile, producing 
 favourable crops ; several of the hills are arable to their 
 summit, and in good cultivation, and most of the others 
 afford excellent pasture. Marble of good quality was 
 formerly wrought, and considerable quantities of it were 
 sent to Leith and London ; but the quarries have been 
 discontinued for some time. Pebbles of green serpentine, 
 also, are found along the shore ; they are susceptible of 
 a high polish, and are formed into various elegant trinkets. 
 The quoad sacra parish of lona, erected by authority of 
 act of parliament, comprises, besides the island, a district 
 of Mull containing a population of 620 persons : it is in 
 the presbytery of Mull and synod of Argyll. The minis- 
 ter's stipend is £120, paid by government ; with a manse, 
 and a glebe valued at £1. 10. per annum : patron, the 
 Crown. lona church, erected in 1828, at a cost of 
 £700, is a neat structure containing 266 sittings. The 
 members of the Free Church have a place of worship. A 
 school, for which an appropriate building was erected by 
 the ducal family of Argyll, is supported by government ; 
 and in the Mull district of the quoad sacra parish is a 
 school maintained by the Society for Propagating Chris- 
 tian Knowledge. 
 
 IRONGRAY, in the county of Kirkcudbright. — 
 See Kirkpatrick-Irongray. 
 
 Obverse. Reverse. 
 
 Seal of Irvine. 
 
 IRVINE, a royal burgh, and a parish, in the district 
 of CoNNiNGHAME, county of Ayr, 26 miles (W. S. W.) 
 from Glasgow, and 685 (W. by S.) from Edinburgh ; the 
 parish containing 5214 inhabitants, of whom 4594 are 
 
 4 U
 
 I R V I 
 
 I R V I 
 
 resident within the burgh ; exclusively of 3053 in the 
 parish of Dundonald, into which the town extends, the 
 total population of the town being "647. This place 
 derives its name from the river on which it is situated, 
 and appears to have attained a high degree of importance 
 at a very early period. The inhabitants obtained from 
 Alexander II. a charter conferring upon the town the 
 privileges of a royal burgh ; and a charter confirming all 
 previous grants was subsequently given to them by Ro- 
 bert Bruce, in recompense of their services during his 
 wars with England in the reign of Edward I. These two 
 charters were renewed and enlarged by successive sove- 
 reigns till the reign of James VI. ; and the various im- 
 munities possessed by the inhabitants were ratified by 
 parliament in 1641. The town is finely situated on the 
 nortii-east bank of the river Irvine, near its junction with 
 the Garnock, and com])rises one spacious street, extend- 
 ing throughout its whole length, from which several 
 smaller but well-formed streets diverge at right angles. 
 The streets are well paved, and lighted with gas, and the 
 inhabitants are amply supplied with water, all at the ex- 
 pense of the corporation. A public library was established 
 iu 1796, and is supported by subscriptioQ ; there is also 
 a reading and news room, well supplied with the daily 
 journals and the most esteemed periodical publications. 
 A handsome bridge, erected in 17-16, and greatly im- 
 proved in IS'27. connects the town with the spacious 
 suburb of Fullarton, on the opposite bank of the river ; 
 and in the immediate vicinity are some fine downs, on 
 which the game of golf takes place, and the Eglinton 
 races are held. The environs are interspersed with 
 numerous pleasant villas ; and the scenery, in itself 
 picturesque, is heightened by the proximity of the grounds 
 of Eglinton Park. 
 
 The chief manufacture carried on is the weaving of 
 book-muslin, jaconets, and checks, in which more than 
 500 looms are engaged ; and great numbers of females 
 are employed in tambouring muslin. The manufacture 
 of anchors and cables is also considerable : there are 
 extensive rope- walks, a yard for ship-building, and some 
 works for magnesia and other chemical processes. This 
 port, previously to the erection of Port-Glasgow, was the 
 shipping-place of the Glasgow merchants : the trade now 
 consists principally in the export of coal, of which 
 nearly 300,000 tons are annually shipped, chiefly for 
 Ireland and various parts of the British coast, but occa- 
 sionally for France, Malta, Gibraltar, and other foreign 
 parts. The chief imports are, timber, and sometimes 
 grain, from America; grain and butter, in large quanti- 
 ties, from Ireland ; and iron, slates, and limestone, from 
 various places. In 1843, the number of vessels belong- 
 ing to the port was 123, of 15,380 tons' aggregate bur- 
 then ; and the amount of duties paid at the custom- 
 house, £2040. Irvine harbour, which was greatly im- 
 proved in 1826, and has since been under the superin- 
 tendence of commissioners, has thirteen feet and a half 
 depth of water on the bar at spring-tides, and is acces- 
 sible to vessels of from 200 to 250 tons. The jurisdic- 
 tion of the port extends over that portion of the coast 
 included between Troon and Largs. The post-office has 
 a good delivery. Branches of the Union Bank of Scot- 
 land, the Ayrshire Bank, and the British Linen Company, 
 have been estabhshed ; and great facility of communica- 
 tion is afforded by the Glasgow and Ayr railway, which 
 nas a station in the town, and is here joined by a branch 
 602 
 
 from Busby, near Kilmarnock. The market, which is 
 abundantly supplied with grain and provisions of all 
 kinds, is on Monday. Fairs are held on the first Wed- 
 nesday in January, for horses ; the first Tuesday in 
 May, for cattle ; and the third Monday and Wednesday 
 in August, for horses, and for lint and wool. A market- 
 cross, a very elegant structure in the centre of the town, 
 was removed in 1694, and the materials employed in the 
 erection of the present meal-market. 
 
 The government of the burgh is vested in a provost, 
 two bailies, a dean of guild, and a treasurer, with twelve 
 councillors, chosen under the regulations of the Municipal 
 Reform act. There are six incorporated trades, namely, 
 the shoemakers, coopers, tailors, weavers, hammermen, 
 and squaremen. The fee of admission as a guild burgess 
 is £5 ; and as a common burgess £2. 10. for a stranger, 
 and half that sum for a son or son-in-law of a burgess. 
 The magistrates, whose jurisdiction extends over the 
 royalty, hold burgh courts both in civil and criminal 
 matters ; and the sheriff of the county holds a court 
 here once in every two months, for causes not exceeding 
 £8. 6. 8. A justice-of-peace court is also regularly held. 
 The town-hall, situated in the centre of the principal 
 street, was built in 1*45, and is a neat plain structure, 
 containing a court-room and a council-chamber, the 
 public library, and three apartments for criminals. The 
 debtors' prison has been discontinued since 1840, under 
 the new Prison act, and has been transferred to the 
 county gaol of Ayr, whither, also, all criminal prisoners 
 are sent whose cases require more than temporary con- 
 finement. This burgh is associated with Ayr, Campbell- 
 town, Inverary, and Oban, in returning a member to the 
 imperial parliament : the number of qualified voters, in- 
 cluding the suburb of Fullarton, which is within the par- 
 liamentary boundaries, is 235. The celebrated Robert 
 Barclay was provost of the burgh. 
 
 The PARISH, situated in the north-western portion of 
 the county, is bounded on the east and south-east by the 
 river Annick ; on the west, by the Irvine ; and on the 
 north-west, by the river Garnock. It is about four miles 
 in length and nearly two in extreme breadth, comprising 
 an area of almost 4000 acres, of which 3000 are arable, 
 and the remainder woodland, plantations, and waste. 
 Along the shore, and on the banks of the rivers, the sur- 
 face is flat and sandy : the soil near the town is a light 
 rich loam, and in the higher parts a strong clay. The 
 crops are wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips : the 
 system of husbandry is improved ; the lands are well 
 drained and inclosed, and the farm-buildings generally 
 substantial and commodious. Dairy-farming is well 
 managed, and the produce is in high reputation. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £10,156. 
 The plantations distributed over various parts are mostly 
 in a thriving state : there are some considerable remains 
 of ancient timber. The chief substrata are, coal, of which 
 there are numerous seams ; freestone ; and whinstone, 
 of good quality for building, and of which an extensive 
 quarry, near the town, is in full operation. This whin- 
 stone is in great demand for oven soles, for which it is 
 admirably adapted, and which are frequently sent as far 
 south as London. The only seat of importance is Bour- 
 tree Hill, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Annick, 
 about a mile and a half eastward of the town. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Irvine, of which this place is 
 
 II
 
 I S L A 
 
 JANE 
 
 the seat, and the synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The minis- 
 ter's stipend is about £'280, with a manse, and a glebe 
 valued at £'25 per annum ; patron, the Earl of Eglin- 
 ton. Irvine church, erected iu 1774> and repaired in 
 1830, is a spacious structure with a handsome tower and 
 spire, and contains iSOO sittings. There are places of 
 worship for members of the United Presbyterian Church, 
 the Free Church, and Baptists. An academy, for which 
 a building was erected in the town in 1816, capable of 
 receiving 500 pupils, is under the patronage of the cor- 
 poration, who appoint a rector, an English master, and 
 a commercial master, who have salaries of £30 each, in 
 addition to the fees, which, however, are moderate. Near 
 Bourtree Hill are some remains of an ancient structure 
 called Stone Castle, belonging to the Earl of Eglinton ; 
 the principal portion is a square tower, of unknown an- 
 tiquity. With this castle is said to have been connected 
 a nunnery with a chapel and cemetery. Irvine is re- 
 markable as the birthplace of Montgomery, the poet, and 
 of the late Mr. Gait, the novelist; and as having been 
 for some time the residence of Burns : whilst the last 
 named was endeavouring to establish himself in business 
 here as a flax-dresser, his shop was unfortunately burnt, 
 and his prospects blighted. In Irvine also was born the 
 Right Honourable David Boyle, the present distinguished 
 head of the court of session. — .See Fullarton. 
 
 ISLAY, a large island, in the county of Argyll ; 
 comprising the parishes of Kilchoman, Kildalton, and 
 Kilarrow ; and containing 13,60'2 inhabitants. It is 
 variously called, by some Ila, Hay, and Isla, but more 
 commonly Islay ; and according to some accounts is 
 twenty-eight miles in length and eighteen in breadth, 
 while others make its length twenty-five miles and its 
 breadth twenty-two. The island is separated from Jura 
 by a narrow sound, over which is a ferry from Portas- 
 kaig to Feoline on the opposite shore. Islay was once a 
 part of the kingdom of the lords of the Isles, who were 
 crowned here by the bishops of Argyll, upon a large 
 stone, which is still pointed out ; and numerous ruins 
 and memorials of antiquity, consisting of castles, forts, 
 and chapels, are to be found in almost every direction, 
 attesting the former importance of the isle. It continued 
 under the lords until the reign of James HI. ; and when 
 their power was abolished, their descendants, the Mac- 
 donalds, were the proprietors, holding directly of the 
 Crown. The property afterwards passed, by the fortune 
 of war, to the Macleans ; but James VI., irritated at the 
 disturbances raised by the private wars waged between 
 these and other clans, rescinded the grant made by his 
 predecessor, and transferred the lands of Islay, Jura, 
 and Muckairn, to Sir John Campbell of Cawdor, ances- 
 tor of the Earls Cawdor, in consideration of an annual 
 feu-duty, whereof the portion for this island was £500, 
 paid to this day. It now belongs to another family of 
 Campbell, a member of which was lately the representa- 
 tive of the copnty. 
 
 Islay is in general mountainous, especially towards the 
 north, but there is much low, level, and cultivated land ; 
 the coast is indented by bays and points, and the shores 
 are for the most part rugged. The inlets of Loch Indal 
 and Loch Gruinard nearly insulate a considerable part of 
 the district of Kilchoman ; and besides several inland 
 lakes, there are numerous streams and rivulets, in some 
 of which are salmon and trout : the whole coast, also, 
 abounds with fish. A lead-mine was at one time 
 603 
 
 very successfully wrought, to the north-west of Portas- 
 kaig ; and a copper-mine, likewise, was long in opera- 
 tion ; but as the ore was mixed with lead, and the sepa- 
 ration was troublesome, both mines were at length aban- 
 doned. The facilities for the improvement of the land 
 are very great, and more than one-half of the surface 
 could be brought into regular tillage. The island boasts 
 of the breed and number of its cattle and horses ; but 
 whisky, for which it is also celebrated, is the great 
 staple commodity, producing annually to government a 
 revenue of more than £30,000 : two-thirds of the grain 
 used in the distillation are raised on the isle. Bow- 
 more is the principal village. It is situated on the 
 banks of Loch Indal, at the extremity of the bay, and 
 is a neat and improving modern village, consisting of 
 regularly-formed streets ; these intersect each other at 
 right angles, and the houses are in general well-built. 
 It has an excellent harbour, with a fine quay, and there 
 is good anchorage for vessels drawing ten feet of water. 
 The village is the seat of the presbytery of Islay and 
 Jura. (See Bowmore.) There are a few handsome 
 seats : Islay House stands at the head of Loch Indal ; 
 it has in front an extensive level lawn, and is sur- 
 rounded by plantations, the ground gently rising, and 
 being extremely well-wooded behind. Ardnave, near 
 Loch Gruinard, was either the birthplace or the paternal 
 residence of the lady of the celebrated Prince Polignac, 
 involved in the fate of Charles X. of France, and for 
 years a state prisoner in the fortress of Ham. On the 
 islet of Oversay, opposite to Portnahaven, is a fine light- 
 house, of which the light, flashing every five seconds, is 
 seen at the distance of seventeen nautical miles. — See 
 Kilchoman, Kildalton, and Kilarrow. 
 
 ISLE OF WHITHORN, county of Wigtown.— See 
 Whithorn, Isle of. 
 
 ISSAY, an island, in that part of the parish of X 
 DuiRiNiSH which constituted the former quoad sacra 
 parish of Waternish, county of Inverness ; contain- 
 ing 90 inhabitants. This isle, also called Eilean ha, or 
 " Island of Jesus", is the largest of several isles lying 
 between Loch Bay and Loch Dunvegan, two consider- 
 able north-western inlets of the Isle of Skye. It is 
 about three miles in circumference ; and the soil, being 
 generally fertile, atfords comfortable support to about 
 fifteen famdies. 
 
 JAMESTOWN, or Damhead, a village, in the pa- 
 rish of BoNHiLL, county of Dumbarton; containing 
 314 inhabitants. This place, heretofore a small,'hamlet, 
 has latterly increased in population and extent, owing 
 to the numerous and flourishing calico-printing and 
 bleaching establishments which have sprung up in the 
 parish, and in which the population here are chiefly 
 employed. 
 
 JAMESTOWN, a village, in the parish of Contin, 
 county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 1 15 inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 JANETOWN, a village, in the parish of Lochcar- 
 RON, county of Ross and Cromarty, 1 mile (S.) from 
 
 4 H 2
 
 JED B 
 
 J ED B 
 
 r> 
 
 BuT^h Seal. 
 
 Lochcarron ; containing 513 inhabitants. It is situated 
 on the eastern shore of the Carron loch, an arm of the 
 sea, into which the Carron water falls about two miles 
 northward of the village. From a very small hamlet 
 consisting of only three families, it has risen latterly 
 into comparative importance, in consequence, princi- 
 pally, of the division of land into lots. The high road 
 leading from Dingwall to the western coast passes 
 through ; and there is a post-office, where the mails 
 arrive three times a week. On the Carron is a good 
 salmon-fishery. 
 
 JEDBURGH, a burgh, 
 market-town, and parish, in 
 the district of Jedburgh, 
 county of Roxburgh, of 
 which it is the capital, II 
 miles (S. VV. by S.) from 
 Kelso, and 49 (S. E. by S.) 
 from the city of Edinburgh ; 
 containing, with the villages 
 of Bongate,Bonjedward,Lan- 
 ton, and Ulston, 5116 inha- 
 bitants, of whom 2697 are in 
 the town. This place derives 
 its name, originally Jedworth or Jedivood, from its situa- 
 tion on the river Jed, which rises on the north side of 
 the Carlin Tooth, in the Cheviot range, and after flow- 
 ing with considerable rapidity through nearly the whole 
 length of the parish, and receiving in its course nu- 
 merous tributary streams that descend from the higher 
 lands into the vale of the Jed, falls into the river Teviot 
 about two miles and a half to the north of Jedburgh. 
 From the name of the river, in ancient records fre- 
 quently called Ged or Gad, the place is thought to have 
 been the principal seat of the Gadeni, who occupied the 
 district lying between the county of Northumberland 
 and the river Teviot. The ancient town, now called 
 Old Jedworth in contradistinction to the present burgh, 
 from which it is about four miles distant, appears to 
 have originated in the foundation of a chapel by Ecgred, 
 Bishop of Lindisfarn, who died in 845 ; and there are 
 still some slight remains of the walls of the building, 
 and of the tombstones in the cemetery, though scarcely 
 above the level of the ground, and perfectly hidden by 
 the grass by which they are overspread. 
 
 The present town owes its origin to the foundation 
 of the magnificent abbey of Jedburgh. This establish- 
 ment is, by some historians, said to have been founded 
 in Ills, and by others in 1147; but from the great 
 antiquity of some parts of the structure, and also from 
 old documents in which St. Kennock is mentioned as 
 abbot in the year 1000, it is supposed to have existed 
 prior to the time of David I., by whom it was probably 
 rebuilt or enlarged. From the situation of Jedburgh as 
 a border town, it vias exposed to continual depredations, 
 and was frequently plundered and reduced to ashes. It 
 suffered materially during the invasion of Scotland by 
 Edward I., and subsequently by the incursions of hostile 
 clans ; the abbey was burnt and pillaged by the Earl of 
 Surrey in 1523, and by the Earl of Hertford in 1545. 
 In 1566, Mary, Queen of Scots, attended by an armed 
 retinue, held a court of justice at this place, for the sup- 
 pression of the turbulence of the borderers ; and, being 
 seized with a dangerous illness during her continuance 
 here, resided in "the house of the Lord Compositor" 
 604 
 
 till her recovery, when she returned along the eastern 
 borders to Dunbar. In 1575, a severe affray, called the 
 " Raid of the Reed Swire ", happened here : it was the 
 last of those hostile feuds which so frequently took 
 place between the borderers of Scotland and England ; 
 and since its occurrence the only event deserving of 
 historical notice, has been the temporary alarm created 
 by the arrival of the Pretender and his Highland troops 
 in 17-15. 
 
 From its exposed situation, the town was strongly 
 defended by castles, and numerous other fortifications ; 
 and the forest in its immediate vicinity was the ren- 
 dezvous of armies. The Castle of Jedburgh was of great 
 antiquity, though the precise time of its erection, and 
 the name of its original founder, are unknown ; it was 
 a place of much strength, and the favourite seat of 
 Malcolm IV., who died here in 1165. This castle was 
 the frequent residence, likewise, of many others of the 
 kings, among whom were William the Lion, Alexander 
 II., and also Alexander III., whose son, Alexander, was 
 born here in 1263, and who, after the death of his 
 children, celebrated in the castle with unusual pomp his 
 marriage with Jolande, daughter of the Count of Dreux. 
 During the wars between the two kingdoms, it was often 
 an object of contest : after the battle of Durham, it was 
 taken by the English, who kept possession of the castle 
 till 1409, when it was retaken by the Scots, by whom it 
 was afterwards demolished. The Castle of Feniihirst, 
 situated on the eastern bank of the river Jed, about two 
 miles from Jedburgh, is supposed to have been founded 
 by the ancestors of the Marquess of Lothian. It was 
 taken in 1523, by the Earl of Surrey, and remained in 
 the hands of the English till 1547, when, after an ob- 
 stinate siege, it was retaken by the Scots, assisted by a 
 party of French at that time stationed at Jedburgh. In 
 1569, the Earl of Westmorland, who had entered into a 
 rebellion against Elizabeth, in favour of Mary, after the 
 dispersion of his troops took refuge in the castle, where 
 he remained in concealment till he finally effected his 
 escape into the Netherlands. In the year following, the 
 castle, in consequence of its owner having joined with 
 others of the border chiefs, in an irruption into the 
 English pale, was taken and demolished by the Earl of 
 Sussex and Sir John Foster; but it was rebuilt in 1598, 
 and part of it still remains entire. After the destruction 
 of Jedburgh Castle, the town was defended by six towers, 
 none of which, however, are remaining; and numerous 
 other fortifications were scattered through the parish, of 
 which the tower at Lanton, and the ruins of another at 
 Timpandean, are still left. 
 
 The TOWN is pleasingly situated in the picturesque 
 and fertile valley of the river Jed, over which, within 
 the parish, are nine bridges. Of these, one at the foot 
 of the Canongate, handsomely built of stone, and having 
 three ribbed circular arches, is of great antiquity, sup- 
 posed to be coeval with the abbey, and had formerly a 
 gateway over the centre, long since removed. The bridge 
 near Bongate is of modern erection ; near it is a large 
 stone, sculptured with representations of various animals, 
 and inscribed with nearly obliterated characters, and 
 which is supposed to have been the pedestal of the 
 ancient cross of Bongate. The house in which Queen 
 Mary resided during her illness is still entire ; it is a 
 spacious building with walls of great thickness, and some 
 of the ancient tapestry is yet preserved : the house is at
 
 J ED B 
 
 J ED B 
 
 present the property of the Lindsay family, by whom it 
 was purchased from the Scotts of Ancrura. The streets 
 are spacious and ren;ularly formed, the houses in general 
 well built ; and in the immediate neighbourhood of the 
 town are many handsome villas. There are three public 
 libraries, one of which, called the Company's Library, 
 contains a very extensive collection ; also a circulating 
 library and a reading-room, and two public reading- 
 rooms. The principal trade is the manufacture of 
 blankets, flannels, tartans, shawls, plaidings, hosiery, 
 woollen-yarn, and carpets, affording constant employ- 
 ment to nearly 400 persons. There are also foundries 
 for brass and iron, and a manufactory for printing- 
 presses, in which latter about twenty persons are en- 
 gaged. Jedburgh has two branch banks, one a branch 
 of the Linen Company, and the other of the National 
 Bank ; likewise a savings' bank for the district of Jed- 
 burgh, including the parishes of Jedburgh, Ancrum, 
 Bedrule, Southdean, Hobkirk, Minto, Oxnara, and Crail- 
 ing, established by Mr. Rutherford of Edgerston, in 1815, 
 and the expenses of which are defrayed from a fund 
 raised by subscription. The market is held weekly on 
 Tuesday, for grain, which is sold by sample to a very 
 considerable amount, and for other business. There is 
 a market for cattle and sheep on the second Thursday of 
 each month, from December until May, both inclusive. 
 A market for the hiring of hinds is holden on the first 
 Tuesday of March, and one for hiring servants on the 
 Tuesday on or before the I6th of May. Whitsuntide 
 fair, for cattle and horses, is held on the first Tuesday 
 after the '26th of May; Lady-day fair, for cattle and 
 horses, and for hiring shearers, on the Tuesday on or 
 before the 20th of August ; Rood- day fair, for cattle and 
 horses, on the 25th of September, excepting when the 
 25th falls on the Saturday, Sunday, or Monday, in 
 which case it is held on the Tuesday ; and Rite or Mar- 
 tinmas fair, for cattle and hnrses, and for hiring servants, 
 on the Tuesday before the 22nd of November. There 
 are also large fairs for sheep, at Rink, in the parish, 
 seven miles from the town, on July 12th and October 
 15th, which are numerously attended by farmers, and 
 dealers in wool, both of Scotland and England. In 1846 
 an act was passed authorizing the construction of a 
 branch railway from Roxburgh to the town of Jedburgh, 
 in connexion with the Kelso branch (sanctioned by par- 
 liament the same year) of the Edinburgh and Hawick 
 railway. 
 
 The various charters by which the buugh was origi- 
 nally incorporated were all destroyed during the wars 
 with England, in the course of which the town was fre- 
 quently burned ; but they were renewed and confirmed 
 by Queen Mary, in 1556, when the magistrates were 
 invested with the power of apprehending, and passing 
 sentence upon, criminals guilty of capital offences. By 
 another charter, James VL, in 1569, granted to the 
 corporation all the revenues of the abbey of Jedburgh 
 arising within the parish, for the purpose of erecting 
 hospitals for the support of the poor and infirm, and for 
 other pious uses. 'This gift was ratified by parliament 
 in 1597 ; and a further charter was bestowed by Charles 
 IL, in 1641. By these charters, the government of the 
 burgh is vested in a provost, four bailies, a dean of guild, 
 and a number of councillors : the incorporated trades con- 
 sist of the smiths, weavers, shoemakers, masons, tailors, 
 Wrights, butchers, and glovers. The revenues abovc- 
 605 
 
 mentioned are not now held by the magistrates. Under 
 the act for amending the representation, the burgh unites 
 with Haddington, North Berwick, Lauder, and Dunbar, 
 in returning one member to parliament. The original 
 boundary has been changed by the inclusion of a con- 
 siderable suburb on the south side of the river, and the 
 exclusion of a few acres of uninhabited land : the num- 
 ber of houses of the value of £10 and upwards is 208, 
 and of those above £5 and below £10, sixty-eight. In 
 addition to their control within the burgh, the magis- 
 trates exercise jurisdiction over the great fair of St. 
 James, near Kelso, where they preside at a court to take 
 cognizance of offences during the fair. A bailie-court, 
 and a court of the dean of guild, are held in Jedburgh ; 
 but since the small-debt sherilTs court, and that of the 
 justices of peace, have been established, the burgh courts 
 have greatly declined. The chief officer under the cor- 
 poration is the town-clerk, who holds his office for life. 
 The county-hall is a neat building of stone, containing 
 the necessary apartments for transacting the public busi- 
 ness of the county and the burgh. What is called the 
 Castle, comprising the gaol and bridewell, is a hand- 
 some edifice, well arranged for classification, and con- 
 taining day-rooms, airing-yards, and every requisite for 
 the health, cleanliness, and comfort of the prisoners. 
 
 The PARISH, which is divided into two detached por- 
 tions by the intervening parishes of Oxnam and South- 
 dean, is bounded on the north by the parish of Ancrum, 
 on the west by the parishes of Bedrule and Southdean, 
 on the east by Oxnam, Crailing, and Eckford, and on 
 the south by the county of Northumberland. The lower 
 portion, in which the burgh is situated, is about seven 
 miles in length and five in breadth, and the upper por- 
 tion five miles in length and four in breadth, including 
 together an area of about thirty-eight square miles. The 
 eastern part of the lower portion is intersected by the 
 riverOxnam,and the northern part bounded bytheTeviot. 
 The surface is pleasingly diversified with hills and val- 
 leys : the high grounds on the sides of the vale of Jed 
 are penetrated by deep ravines, and in some places gra- 
 dually attain an elevation of 300 feet above the level of 
 the river. In the upper part of the parish are several 
 green hills of conical form, two of which, rising to the 
 height of 1021 feet, are apparently lessened from their 
 proximity to Carter Fell, one of the Cheviot hills, which 
 has an elevation of more than 2000 feet. The Dunian, 
 the highest hill in the parish, but the summit of which 
 is in the parish of Bedrule, attains an elevation of 1 120 
 feet above the level of the sea. Some remains of the 
 ancient forest of Jed, consisting of a few clusters of 
 birch-trees, still exist near Fernihirst ; and considerable 
 plantations, which have now attained a luxuriant growth, 
 add much to the beauty of the scenery. Two oaks, also, 
 of the ancient forest are yet left, near the town : one, 
 rising to the height of ninety-nine feet, measures four- 
 teen feet in girth ; and the other, which has less height, 
 but branches out more widely, is twenty-one feet in girth 
 at three feet from the ground. Forest-trees of every 
 kind grow well in the lower lands ; in the higher, Scotch 
 fir and larch are the prevalent trees. From the old 
 stocks in the forest, which was cut down in the last cen- 
 tury, many new trees have arisen ; and the whole dis- 
 trict abounds in timber. 
 
 The SOIL is peculiarly favourable for the growth of 
 fruit-trees ; and pears in great variety, and of the finest
 
 J ED B 
 
 JE D B 
 
 quality, are produced in abundance. The land, espe- 
 cially in the lower districts, is fertile, and of good 
 quality, and the system of agriculture is much im- 
 proved; considerable tracts of waste have been re- 
 claimed within the last thirty years, and at present the 
 number of acres under tillage is 14,281, in pasture 6930, 
 and in wood 2483. The prevailing plan of husbandry 
 is the five-shift, consisting of two white and three green 
 crops. The fences and inclosures are kept in excellent 
 order, and the farm-buildings are commodious and in 
 good repair. Many improvements have been made in 
 draining and planting, and in the breed of stock, under 
 an association called the Farmers' Club ; and the Ro.k- 
 burgh Horticultural Society hold monthly meetings in 
 the town from the beginning of April to the end of 
 September, for the distribution of prizes to the most 
 successful growers of flowers, fruits, and vegetables. 
 Limestone of excellent quality abounds in the southern 
 parts of the parish ; and near the town are several 
 strata ranged above each other, one of which is nine 
 inches in thickness. Coal exists, and there are appear- 
 ances of its having been formerly worked ; but some 
 recent attempts to procure it have been discontinued. 
 There are quarries of sandstone of a white, and of a 
 reddish colour. Iron-ore is found in a bed three feet in 
 thickness, occurring between the primary and secondary 
 formations, which near the town are seen in combina- 
 tion ; the strata of the former are vertical and in many 
 places irregular, and of the latter horizontal, alternating 
 with red freestone and soft sandstone of the same colour. 
 Several of the hills are of whinstone, resting on sand- 
 stone. In this parish the chief seats are Edgerston, 
 Mossburnford, Langlee, Lintalee, Hundalee, Glenburn 
 Hall, Hunthill, Stewartfield, and Bonjedward. The an- 
 nual value of real property in the parish of Jedburgh is 
 £22,370. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Jedburgh, of which this is 
 the seat, and of the synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; 
 patron, the Crown. The stipend of the incumbent ave- 
 rages about £300, with a manse, built in 1S06 ; and the 
 glebe comprises seven acres of arable land worth £5 per 
 acre, and pasture land that lets for £13. 13. The church 
 is part of the ancient abbey, of which the western portion 
 of the nave has been fitted up for public worship, and 
 affords accommodation to 910 persons. Of that stately 
 and magnificent structure, situated on the sloping bank 
 of the river Jed, near the southern extremitj' of the 
 town, the only remains are the nave, the north tran- 
 sept, and the choir of the church, a cruciform building 
 230 feet in length, with a massive central tower rising 
 to the height of 100 feet, and surmounted by a pro- 
 jecting battlement crowned with turrets and pinnacles. 
 The western entrance is strikingly beautiful, consisting 
 of a lofty Norman doorway of deeply-recessed arches, 
 springing from slender clustered columns, richly moulded 
 and elaborately ornamented. Above the doorway is a 
 spacious window of three compartments, of which the 
 central arch is circular, and the others finely pointed ; 
 and in the gable is a round window of very elegant 
 design. The nave, 130 feet in length, is separated on 
 each side from the aisles by a series of lofty arches sup- 
 ported on clustered columns with sculptured capitals : 
 the triforium consists of semicircular arches richly 
 moulded, circumscribing two pointed windows of elegant 
 606 
 
 tracery ; and the clerestory, of a range of pointed windows 
 of graceful proportions. The choir, which is greatly 
 dilapidated, is of more ancient character. Its roof is 
 supported on massive pillars, from which spring broad 
 circular arches of the earlier Norman style, ornamented 
 with zigzag mouldings ; the triforium is of similar 
 character, surmounted by a range of sharply-pointed 
 clerestory windows of later date. The north transept, 
 which is still entire, is embellished with windows of 
 elegant design, highly enriched with tracery ; and the 
 principal window is of lofty dimensions and of great 
 beauty. The south transept, the cloisters, the chapter- 
 house, and other conventual buildings, have all disap- 
 peared ; but a doorway, forming the south entrance to 
 the church from the cloisters, is still remaining, an almost 
 unrivalled specimen of architectural beauty and elaborate 
 decoration. On the south side of the choir is a chapel, 
 formerly used as a grammar school. There are three 
 neat places of worship in connexion with the United 
 Presbyterian Church, a place of worship for members of 
 the Free Church, and a particularly beautiful Episcopal 
 chapel. 
 
 The United Schools of Jedburgh, consisting of the 
 grammar-school and the burgh English school, united 
 in 1S04, contain about 150 children, and are under the 
 superintendence of the heritors and the magistrates of 
 the burgh, by whom the rector is appointed. The rec- 
 tor receives from the burgh £21. 6. 8., and £12 for the 
 English school, for which he is bound to keep an assist- 
 ant ; also £8. 6. 8. from the heritors, making a total 
 salary of £41. 13. 4. The school fees amount on the 
 average to £120, and the offerings at Candlemas to nearly 
 £30 ; the rector has also a commodious house and garden. 
 Two parochial schools, at Lanton and Rink, are well 
 attended ; the masters are allowed by the heritors 
 £11. 2. each. There is also an infants' school endowed 
 by the Marquess of Lothian. The town has two religious 
 societies, one for the diffusion of education, and the 
 other for imparting religious knowledge ; they are sup- 
 ported by subscriptions, amounting on an average to 
 £15. A dispensary was founded in 1807, chiefly by 
 donations from the Kerr family, and is maintained by 
 annual subscriptions : a commodious house, with baths 
 and other requisites, was erected in 1822, by the then 
 Marquess of Lothian. The number of patients, who are 
 received from the parishes of Jedburgh, Ancrum, Bed- 
 rule, Southdean, Hobkirk, Minto, Oxnam, and Craihng, 
 amounts annually to about 220. A sum of money aris- 
 ing from accumulated legacies, chiefly by Lady Yester, 
 a daughter of Ker of Fernihirst, produces an interest of 
 £23, appropriated to the education of poor children, and 
 to the relief of the poor, for whose benefit also about 
 £40 are annually collected at the church. The poor are 
 chiefly maintained by assessments. 
 
 A Roman road, crossing the Jed and the Teviot about 
 half a mile above their junction, intersects the northern 
 part of the parish within two miles of the town ; it is 
 paved with whinstone, and in a state of good preserva- 
 tion. There are also vestiges of an ancient road lead- 
 ing over the high ground from Ancrum bridge to the 
 town. Near Mouklaw are the remains of a Roman 
 camp about 160 yards square; and there are traces of 
 camps at Ilowdean, Swinnie, Scraesburgh, Camptown, 
 and Fernihirst, but nearly obliterated by the progress of 
 cutivation. At Lintalee are the remains of an encamp- 
 
 I
 
 J E D B 
 
 JOHN 
 
 ment formed by Douglas for the defence of the frontier, 
 during the absence of Bruce in Ireland, and celebrated 
 for a memorable engagement in which the Earl of Rich- 
 mond, who had invaded Scotland at the head of 10,000 
 men, fell in a personal combat with Douglas : the double 
 rampart by which it was defended is still remaining. 
 In the face of the precipice belovv the camp, and now 
 inaccessible, is a cavern dug in the rocky bank of the 
 river Jed ; and at Hundalee and Mossburnford are 
 similar caverns, excavated in the rock as places of re- 
 fuge, and for the concealment of property during the 
 frequent irruptions of the English borderers. In the 
 year 1827, many ancient coins of silver, chiefly of the 
 reign of Ethelred, and one of the reign of Canute, were 
 found in a field near Bongate, with a ring formed of 
 silver wire ; some of the coins are at present in the pos- 
 session of Mr. Bainbridge, of Gattonside, but most of 
 them are widely dispersed. A number of coins of the reigns 
 of Edred, Edwy, Ethelred, Edward I. and III., and of 
 Henry I. and II., have been also found, near the abbey 
 bridge ; and some Roman coins are said to have been 
 discovered at Stevvartfield. A horn was discovered near 
 Swinnie within the last few years, containing silver coins 
 of the reign of James V.; and in the year 1834, about 
 400 silver coins of the reigns of Henry VIII., James V., 
 Robert III., and Mary, Queen of Scots, were ploughed 
 up near the farm-house of that place. A silver coin, 
 or medal, commemorating the marriage of Mary, with 
 the Dauphin of France, wa.s not long since found at 
 Larkhall. On one side are combined the letters F. and 
 M., surmounted by a crown, with the inscription Fecit 
 utraque unum 15.58 ; on the other are the arms of Scot- 
 land impaled with those of the Dauphin, and the in- 
 scription Fran, et Ma. D. G. R. R. Scotor. D. D. Fieri. 
 Arrow-heads of flint are occasionally dug up on How- 
 dean moor, which is reported to have been the scene of 
 a battle ; and a camp-kettle, which was presented to the 
 late Sir Walter Scott by Mr. Rutherford, was found at 
 Edgerston. 
 
 In 1815, a sarcophagus of stone, formed of unhewn 
 slabs, four feet six inches in length, and two feet si.x 
 inches in breadth, containing a large urn and three of 
 smaller size, one of which was full of pure water, was 
 found in a garden on the west side of the High-street. 
 The large urn, near which were parts of skulls, was of 
 very elegant form ; two of the smaller urns crumbled 
 into dust on being touched. In the same garden, which 
 is in some records called the Temple Garden, were dis- 
 covered the foundations of ancient buildings, at a depth 
 of six feet below the surface. A trophy taken from the 
 English at the battle of Bannockburu, and another from 
 the Highlanders at Killiecrankie, are in the possession 
 of the corporate body of weavers ; and another, taken 
 from the English at the battle of Newburn, in that of 
 the shoemakers. The inhabitants of Jedburgh, and of 
 the forest, constantly accustomed to warfare, were a 
 brave and hardy race ; and their valour is recorded by 
 the Earl of Surrey, in his despatches to Henry VIII. 
 respecting the storming of Jedburgh. Their favourite 
 weapon was the Jedworth axe, and their war-cry, " Jed- 
 worth's here ". At Tudhope, about half a mile from the 
 town, is a spring strongly impregnated with sulphur and 
 iron, and found very ellicacious in scorbutic disorders : 
 there are chalybeate springs in several parts of the parish, 
 and at Giiliestongues is a petrifying spring. 
 607 
 
 Among the eminent persons of this place were nume- 
 rous abbots of Jedburgh, successors to St. Kennock, 
 who held various high offices of trust and importance 
 under the kings of Scotland, and were greatly dis- 
 tinguished by their learning and talents. Adam Bell, a 
 brother of the Carmelite convent, who died here, was 
 the author of a history of Scotland from the earliest 
 period to the year 1535, entitled Rota Temporutn. John 
 Rutherford, principal of St. Salvator's college, St. An- 
 drew's, and author of a work on the Art of Reasoning, 
 was a native of the town. Samuel Rutherford, princi- 
 pal of St. Mary's college, St. Andrew's, and author of 
 the Letters, who was born in an adjoining parish, re- 
 ceived his early education in the grammar school of Jed- 
 burgh ; as did also the poet Thomson ; and among dis- 
 tinguished natives may be named Andrew Young, regent 
 of philosophy in the university of Edinburgh, and Sir 
 David Brewster. 
 
 JEMIMAVILLE, a village, in the parish of Kirk- 
 MicHAEL, county of Ross and Cromarty ; containing 
 139 inhabitants. It is one of three very small villages in 
 the parish, and, though the largest of them, consists of 
 only a group of houses, of an inferior class. 
 
 JOCK'S- LODGE, a village, in the parish of South 
 Leith, county of Edinburgh, 1| mile (E. by S.) from 
 Edinburgh ; containing 449 inhabitants. This is a con- 
 siderable, though scattered, village, situated on the south- 
 ern border of the parish, and on the road from Edin- 
 burgh to Portobello and Musselburgh. It is said by 
 some to have had its eccentric name from that of a beg- 
 gar who, in the eighteenth century, inhabited a small 
 tenement on the spot ; but it appears, on better autho- 
 rity, that the village was called Jock's Lodge in Crom- 
 well's time. The place is opposite to Piershill cavalry 
 barracks, which were built in 1/93, and are named from 
 Colonel Piers, who commanded a regiment stationed at 
 Edinburgh in the reign of George II., and who either 
 erected or rented a villa on the height of a rising ground 
 overlooking Restalrig, now occupied by the officers' 
 apartments, and called Piershill. On the right hand of 
 the village are many neat residences. 
 
 JOHNSHAVEN, a village, in the parish of Ben- ^ 
 HOLME, county of Kincardine, 4 miles (S. W. by S.) 
 from Bervie ; containing 1172 inhabitants. This place, 
 which comprises the principal part of the population of 
 the parish, is chiefly inhabited by fishermen and weavers, 
 whose houses are small and irregularly built. It is situ- 
 ated on the shore of the German Ocean, close to a small 
 harbour which is frequented in summer by coal sloops, 
 and occasionally by vessels freighted with lime. Off the 
 coast, fish are taught, consisting for the most part of cod, 
 haddocks, and turbot. 
 
 JOHNSTONE, a parish, in the county of Dumfries, 
 9 miles (S. by E.) from Moffat; containing 10/2 inha- 
 bitants. It is generally sujjposed that the name of this 
 place was derived from some ancient and important per- 
 sonage of the name of John, distinguished either by his 
 possessions or achievements, and to whose name the or- 
 dinary Saxon termination ton or toiin was added. From 
 time immemorial the lands have been the property of 
 the family of Johnstone, lairds of Annandale, whose cas- 
 tle of Lochwood, now in ruins, was situated in the north 
 of the parish, and almost surroinided l)y impassable 
 bogs and marshes. This fort, which was a place of great 
 strength, and inaccessible to a foe, induced James VI. to
 
 JOHN 
 
 declare that " he who built Lochwood, though outwardly 
 an honest man, must have been a knave at heart". 
 About the end of the sixteenth century, it was burnt by 
 Robert, natural brother to Lord John Maxwell ; in re- 
 venge for which the Johnstones, who were a warlike 
 tribe, assisted by the famous Buccleuch, the Elliots, 
 Armstrongs, and Grahams, the bravest of the warriors 
 of the Scottish border, attacked and cut to pieces a party 
 of the Maxwells near Lochmaben, where the incendiary 
 himself, Robert, was among the number of the slain. 
 Those who escaped taking refuge in the church of Loch- 
 maben, the sacred edifice was burnt to ashes by the 
 Johnstones. This rash and sacrilegious act occasioned 
 the memorable battle of Dryfesands, in which the John- 
 stones finally prevailed. Lord Maxwell being attacked be- 
 hind and slain by "Will of Kirkhill", while engaged in 
 single combat with Lord Johnstone. 
 
 The PARISH is situated in that district of Dumfries- 
 shire known by the name of Annandale, and compre- 
 hends a considerable portion of the old parishes of 
 Garvald and Dumgree. It is six miles in length, and 
 averages three in breadth. On the north it is bounded 
 by the parish of Kirkpatrick-Juxta ; and on the east by 
 Applegarth and Wamphray, from both which parishes 
 it is separated by the river Annan. On the south, at a 
 narrow part of about a mile, forming the vertex of the 
 triangular figure of Johnstone, is the parish of Lochma- 
 ben ; and on the south-west, the river Kinnel divides 
 the lands from Kirkmichael parish. The country is 
 generally flat with a gradual ascent towards the west. 
 A large proportion of the surface is stony, supplying 
 great facilities for filling the thorough-drains that have 
 been cut to so considerable an extent of late years, and 
 that are so necessary to prepare the land for the suc- 
 cessful operation of the subsoil plough, now in very 
 general use. The whole of the parish lies between the 
 rivers Annan and Kinnel, with the exception of 2000 or 
 3000 acres to the west of the latter stream, which in 
 their ascent towards Nithsdale rise about 1200 or 1500 
 feet. The two rivers form a junction two miles below the 
 southern extremity of the parish. The Annan abounds 
 with yellow and sea trout, eels, and salmon. Its banks 
 are subject, in rainy and snowy seasons, to violent inun- 
 dations,from which great mischief has arisen to the crops : 
 two of the most remarkable floods were in August 1/82, 
 and in August, September, and October 1790. 
 
 The SOIL of the flat alluvial land along the Annan is 
 a dry loam or gravel : in other parts the soil is chiefly a 
 light loam, resting on gravel or rock, or a moorish soil 
 lying upon a retentive clay or till ; and there are several 
 peat-mosses, extending to some hundreds of acres. Of 
 the total area, between 5000 and 6000 acres are under 
 tillage; about 5000 are uncultivated, or in natural pas- 
 ture ; from 509 to 1000, which have never been ploughed, 
 are considered capable of cultivation; and 1500 are 
 under plantations or natural wood. Wheat was at one 
 time unknown in this district as a part of the produce, 
 but it is now partially cultivated ; other kinds of grain 
 are raised, and the green crops, of which turnips and 
 potatoes are the principal, are abundant and of good 
 quality. The most improved system of husbandry has 
 been for some time adopted, and within the last half 
 century the aspect of the parish has been changed by 
 the construction of roads, the formation of inclosures, 
 and especially by the number of comfortable dwellings 
 608 
 
 JOHN 
 
 erected for the accommodation of the labouring classes. 
 Pigs are reared in large numbers, and hams and flitches 
 are sent in great quantities to England. There are two 
 sheep-farms, on which the stock consists partly of the 
 native black-faced, and partly of Cheviots. The cattle 
 are the Galloway, except upon two or three of the farms, 
 where they are of the pure Ayrshire breed. Great 
 attention has been paid to the improvement of the cattle, 
 and in several instances the farmers have obtained pre- 
 miums from the Upper Annandale Agricultural Society. 
 The plantations receive much care : they were greatly 
 increased about half a century ago by the then Earl of 
 Hopetoun, at which time a large quantity of Scotch firs, 
 interspersed with larch and spruce, were added to the 
 former stock. About a dozen fallow-deer brought from 
 Hopetoun House, in the year I'SO, were put into an 
 inclosure opposite the house of Raehills, and after a 
 while broke loose, and established themselves among 
 these extensive plantations : since that time no one has 
 been able to capture or control them ; and they are now 
 increased to the number, as is supposed, of about 200 
 or 300. The rocks in the district consist of red sand- 
 stone, and whinstone, the latter of which varies much in 
 its fineness and consistence. Attempts have been made 
 to discover a vein of lead-ore, the existence of which 
 seemed to be indicated by several portions occasionally 
 found above the surface, near Lochwood ruins ; but the 
 expected success has not attended the undertaking. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £4408. 
 The mansion-house of Raehills, the seat of J. J. Hope 
 Johnstone, Esq., descendant of the Earls of Hopetoun, 
 was principally built by James, third earl, grandfather 
 of the present possessor, in the year 1786 ; and is a cas- 
 tellated edifice, of the old baronial style which prevailed 
 in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. A large addition, 
 fronting the south, and containing an elegant suite of 
 apartments, has lately been erected, constituting it one 
 of the most splendid and imposing mansions in the south 
 of Scotland. 
 
 This is entirely an agricultural parish, and the popu- 
 lation are scattered. The road from London to Glasgow, 
 by Carlisle, passes for five miles through the parish ; 
 and that from Dumfries to Edinburgh, by Moffat, for 
 the same distance : a turnpike-road from Moffat to Loch- 
 maben and Annan runs for six miles, from north to 
 south, nearly through its centre. There is a bridge over 
 the Kinnel at St. Ann's, and one across the Annan at 
 Johnstone Mills, besides several bridges over the smaller 
 streams : all these, with the roads, are kept in good re- 
 pair. Ecclesiastically the parish is within the bounds of 
 the presbytery of Lochmaben and synod of Dumfries ; 
 patron, Mr. Johnstone. The stipend is £165. 13., and 
 there is a good manse, with a glebe of ten acres worth 
 about 20s. per acre. Johnstone church, which is in- 
 conveniently situated, at the eastern extremity of the 
 parish, was built in 1733, and rebuilt on an enlarged 
 scale in 1818; it is now a comfortable and com- 
 modious edifice. There is a parochial school, where 
 Latin, Greek, and French, and all the usual branches 
 of education are taught : the master has the maximum 
 salary, with the fees, which average about £21 per an- 
 num, and £3 received from a bequest left by the late 
 Mr. Aitkin, farmer, of Kirkbank ; he has also the 
 legal allowance of land. Of two other schools, the 
 teacher at Goodhope receives £16 a year from the pa- 
 
 1
 
 JOHN 
 
 JOPP 
 
 tron of the parish, with about £10 fees; the master of 
 the school at Cogrieburn-bridge has an income of £10, 
 independently of the fees. The parochial library, now 
 consisting of 300 volumes, was established in 1828, by 
 the minister of the parish. There was once also a farm- 
 ing society, founded in 1818, which proved beneficial in 
 supplying a stimulus to improvements in husbandry, 
 and especially in the rearing of cattle ; but it is now 
 discontinued. Near the farm of Crawknowes is a small 
 barrow, or tumulus, said to mark the spot where the 
 Laird of Lochwood, in a private quarrel, shot the Laird 
 of Dumgree, whose body he afterwards hid in the earth. 
 The only other memorial of antiquity is the old castle of 
 Lochwood, already referred to, supposed to have been 
 built during the fourteenth century. Dr. Matthew Hal- 
 liday, physician to the Empress Catherine of Russia, and 
 Dr. John Rogerson, who succeeded him in that station, 
 were born in the parish of Johnstone ; the latter died 
 about twenty years since. 
 
 JOHNSTONE, a village, or rather a manufacturing 
 town, and for a time a quoad sacra parish, in the Abbey 
 parish of Paisley, Upper ward of the county of Ren- 
 frew, 3^ miles (W. by S.) from Paisley ; containing, in 
 1841, .58'24 inhabitants. This place, which, about si.xty 
 or seventy years since, consisted merely of a few scat- 
 tered cottages, is pleasantly situated on the river Black 
 Cart, over which is a bridge, from which it derived its 
 former name. It is indebted for its rise, and subsequent 
 rapid increase, to the introduction of the manufacture of 
 cotton-yarn, and to the encouragement given by its spi- 
 rited proprietor Mr. Houston, who granted leases of 
 land for the erection of dwelling-houses, and for the 
 works which have been since opened. The increase of 
 the place both in population and manufacturing impor- 
 tance has been unrivalled in the history of any other 
 place in Scotland. In I'Sl, when the lands were first 
 leased, it contained only ten inhabitants : in 179'2, the 
 number had augmented to 1434; in 1811, to 364*; and 
 in 1831, to .56l7. The town is regularly built, consisting 
 of Houston-square, nearly in the centre ; a spacious 
 market-place ; and numerous handsome streets inter- 
 secting each other at right angles. The houses are of 
 stone, and to each is attached an adequate portion of 
 garden ground ; the inhabitants are amply supplied with 
 water, and the streets are well lighted with gas. Assem- 
 bly-rooms have been erected ; a lodge of freemasons has 
 been instituted : circulating libraries are kept by the 
 various booksellers ; a post-office with two daily deli- 
 veries has been established ; and in almost every respect 
 the town may be said to be improving. It contains an 
 old-established library, and there is a mechanics' insti- 
 tution, with a library attached ; but these institutions 
 are not well supported. Johnstone Castle, in the vicinity, 
 the seat of the Houston family, is a large and handsome 
 structure in the modern castellated style, surrounded by 
 luxuriant wood. 
 
 The popijlation are chiefly employed in the cotton 
 trade, for which mills have been erected in the town and 
 immediate vicinity. According to a statement made 
 some years ago, the mills contained in the aggregate 
 90,000 spindles ; two of them were propelled by water, 
 and the others by steam-power. The capital employed 
 in their erection, and in keeping them in operation, was 
 estimated at £135,000 ; and they afforded employment 
 to more than 2500 persons. At the present time, there 
 Vol. I.— 609 
 
 are fifteen cotton-mills in active operation. A flax-mill, 
 a very substantial fireproof building, has been erected, 
 in which flax is spun into yarn, and dyed ; and an old 
 cotton-mill has been converted into a shawl-weaving 
 factory. There are si.x manufactories of machinery, to 
 one of which a foundry is attached ; there are also a 
 very extensive iron-foundry, and a brass-foundry of less 
 dimensions : boiler-making has of late been commenced 
 in one of the machine shops. In this flourishing town 
 are likewise a saw-mill, a cooperage, and a shop for turn- 
 ing operations. Numerous collieries and lime- works are 
 carried on in the neighbourhood. Branches of the Union 
 Bank of Scotland and the City of Glasgow Bank have 
 been established. There are numerous excellent shops 
 in the town, which is well stocked with every kind of 
 provisions ; and fairs are annually held on the Thursday 
 after the second Monday in July, and the last Thursday 
 in December, for cattle. Great facility of communica- 
 tion is afforded by the Glasgow and Ayr railway, which 
 passes by Johnstone, and has a handsome station here. 
 The Glasgow, Paisley, and Ardrossan canal, commencing 
 at Port-Eglinton, near Glasgow, is completed only to 
 this place, a distance of eleven miles free of lockage. 
 It is twenty-eight feet broad at the top, fourteen at the 
 bottom, and four feet and a half in depth ; and cost 
 nearly £100,000. The navigation was opened in 1811, 
 and light iron passage-boats were established in 1831 ; 
 but by a recent arrangement with the Ayrshire and the 
 Greenock Railway Companies, the conveyance of pas- 
 sengers is to be discontinued for twenty-one years, and 
 the traffic confined to heavy goods, of which 6s,063 tons 
 were carried in the year ending 30th Sept. 1844. The 
 canal terminates in a basin at one extremity of the town, 
 and adjoining the wharf is a yard for landing the 
 stone from the Nitshill quarry. The magistrates hold a 
 petty-session in the assembly-rooms on the first Friday 
 in every month. A church was erected here in 1793, 
 at a cost of £1400; it contains 995 sittings, and is a 
 handsome octagonal edifice, with a very light and elegant 
 spire, built in imitation of the spire of Lincoln designed 
 by Sir Christopher Wren, but on a smaller scale. This 
 church forms a strikingly interesting object as seen from 
 the road to Paisley, and gives to the town a very pleasing 
 appearance. Ecclesiastically the place is in the presby- 
 tery of Paisley, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and the pa- 
 tronage is vested in the Congregation ; the stipend of 
 the minister is £150, arising from seat-rents and collec- 
 tions, and part of the amount is secured by bond. Be- 
 sides the church, or chapel of ease, there are two places 
 of worship for the United Presbyterian Synod, and one, 
 a fine building with a small tower, for the Free Church. 
 A body of Methodists, and another sect called Latter- 
 Day Saints, occupy halls where they have public wor- 
 ship regularly on Sundays ; and a charity school has 
 been established, which is upheld by the voluntary sub- 
 scriptions of the inhabitants. 
 
 JOPPA, a village, in the parish of Coylton, district 
 of Kyle, county of Ayr, S^ miles (S. E. by E.) from Ayr; 
 containing 168 inhabitants. It is situated on the road 
 from Ayr to Coylton, a short distance westward of the 
 Coyl water, and is regarded as the principal village in 
 the parish, the others being chiefly groups of cottages. 
 There is a Sabbath school here ; also a private school, 
 attended by about fifty children, and the teacher of which 
 has a rent-free schoolroom. 
 
 4 I
 
 JURA 
 
 JURA 
 
 JOPPA, a village, in that part of the parish of Dud- 
 DiNGSTON, county of Edinburgh, which formed the 
 quoad sacra parish of Portobello, ^ a mile (E. S. E.) 
 from Portobello ; containing 2*5 inhabitants. This is a 
 modern and neat village, situated on the sea-side, and 
 on the road between Edinburgh and Musselburgh. The 
 North-British railway passes by. Joppa may be said to 
 form a suburb of the large and fashionable village of 
 Portobello, which, on account of its excellent beach 
 and its proximity to Edinburgh, is visited as a bathing- 
 place in the summer season. In the vicinity are some 
 handsome villas. 
 
 JUNIPER-GREEN, a village, in the parish of Co- 
 LiNTON, county of Edinburgh, if mile (W. by S.) from 
 Colinton ; containing 325 inhabitants. It lies on the 
 high road from Currie to Edinburgh, and in the western 
 extremity of the parish. Juniper-Green is one of the 
 five principal villages of Colinton ; and has a small 
 school. 
 ,^ JURA and COLONSAY, a parish, in the district of 
 IsLAY, county of Argyll ; containing 2299 inhabitants. 
 This parish, which is situated to the west of the main 
 land, comprises the islands of Jura, Colonsay, Oronsay, 
 Scarba, Lunga, Balnahuaigh, and Garvelloch, and several 
 small uninhabited islets. The island of Jura takes its 
 name from the numerous herds of red-deer with which 
 it abounded, and of which many are still preserved. It 
 is separated from the main land by the sound of Jura, 
 which forms its eastern boundary ; and from the isle of 
 Islay by the sound of that name, which bounds it on 
 the south : on the west is the Atlantic Ocean. It is 
 about thirty-six miles in extreme length, and varies from 
 two to nearly eight miles in breadth ; the number of 
 acres has not been ascertained. The surface is rugged, 
 and broken by mountains of conical form, of which the 
 three principal, called the Paps of Jura, are Beinn-a- 
 Chaolais, Beinn-an-Oir, and Beinn-Shianta. These 
 mountains, the highest of which, Beinn-an-Oir, has an 
 elevation of 2700 feet above the level of the sea, form 
 a conspicuous landmark for mariners ; they are seen 
 from a great distance, and are the first points discovered 
 by vessels navigating the Atlantic. 
 
 The coast of the island is rocky and precipitous, and 
 in many places perforated with deep caverns, some of 
 them affording secure shelter. Of these the most re- 
 markable is Vaghlamaich, on the western coast, the en- 
 trance of which is thirty-eight feet above the level of the 
 sea at high tides, and thirty-three feet in height. The 
 interior has an area of 1312 square yards; the floor is 
 smooth, and the roof beautifully arched. So perfectly 
 is this cavern protected, that, during the severest storms, 
 scarcely a breath of wind is felt within it. There are 
 numerous moorland lakes, several of which abound with 
 trout ; and from them issue various streams, which in 
 their course towards the sea form considerable rivers, 
 wherein trout and salmon are found. Of these rivers 
 the largest are the Knockbreck, on which the proprietor, 
 Mr. Campbell, has a salmon-fishery, and the j^i-in Lussa, 
 in the north of the island : the river Corran has its 
 source in some springs issuing from the mountains, and 
 flowing eastward receives different tributaries in its 
 course, and falls into the sound of Jura near Corran 
 House. Tlie shore on the west is deeply indented by 
 Loch Tarhet, an inlet from the sea, which almost divides 
 the island into two parts ; and on the eastern shore are 
 610 
 
 several bays, of which Lowlandman's bay and the bay of 
 Small Isles constitute commodious harbours. The former 
 bay, two miles and a half in circumference, has an en- 
 trance 5/0 yards in width, and is from five to six fathoms 
 in depth ; the latter,which is more capacious, is formed 
 by three small islands, ranging in a line nearly parallel 
 with the coast, and between which are the entrances. 
 Between the north point of Jura and the island of Scarba 
 is the famous whirlpool of Coryvrechan. 
 
 The SOIL in the east of the island, in which direction 
 nearly the whole population of Jura reside, is stony and 
 shallow along the shore, but on the acclivities, where 
 most of the arable land is situated, of better quality. 
 The crops are oats, barley, potatoes, and a little flax : the 
 system of agriculture has been improved; much of the 
 land has been drained, and some tracts of moss have 
 been brought into cultivation. In general the farm- 
 buildings are commodious ; and the lands have been in- 
 closed, partly with stone dykes, and partly with hedges 
 of thorn. The cattle are of the native black breed, and 
 about 1200 are annually sold from the isle : the sheep, of 
 which, also, a number are reared in the pastures, are gene- 
 rally the black-faced, with some of the Cheviots, which 
 are increasing in favour. The prevailing rocks are of 
 the primitive class, and comprise mica-slate, quartz, 
 trap, and whinstone : slate was formerly quarried. The 
 annual value of real property in the parish is £5/61. 
 The mansions in the island are, Jura House, the seat of 
 the principal proprietor, a spacious residence, with some 
 splendid additions of recent date ; and Ardlussa, also a 
 handsome mansion, beautifully situated, and surrounded 
 with plantations. The only village is Miltown, which 
 includes Craighouse ; the inhabitants are chiefly employed 
 in weaving, and in the various handicraft trades requisite 
 for the supply of the neighbourhood. There is a neat 
 inn at Craighouse, that has been rebuilt and enlarged. 
 A distillery has been erected, which produces about 700 
 gallons of whisky per week ; and there is likewise a 
 corn-mill, whence the village takes its name. Facility 
 of intercourse is afforded by several roads and bridges, 
 and by three ferries, where there are staiths for the 
 shipping of cattle : the ferry at Kenuachdrach commu- 
 nicates with Craignish ; that of Lagg with North Knap- 
 dale, and the ferry of Feoline with Portaskaig. From 
 Feoline to Lagg, a distance of seventeen miles, a govern- 
 ment road has been formed, adding greatly to the means 
 of intercourse ; and at the latter place is a sub-office, 
 where the London, Edinburgh, and Glasgow mails are 
 received from Islay. 
 
 For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the 
 bounds of the presbytery of Islay and Jura, synod of 
 Argyll. The minister's stipend is £200, charged with 
 the payment of £50 to an assistant at Colonsay ; he has 
 a manse, and a glebe valued at £12 per annum : patron, 
 the Duke of Argyll. The church, erected about the 
 year 1776, is a neat plain structure ; it has been enlarged 
 and greatly impro%'ed by Mr. Campbell, and contains 
 250 sittings. In the old churchyard is an elegant mau- 
 soleum for the Campbell family. There are two schools 
 in Jura, and one in Colonsay, among the three masters 
 of which the parochial salary of £34 is divided : Mr. 
 Campbell has erected two commodious schoolrooms, 
 with good houses for the masters, to each of whom he 
 gives a garden and a small portion of land. Two other 
 schools are supported by the Society for Propagating 
 
 f 
 
 i
 
 JURA 
 
 Christian Knowledge, one of which is at Colonsay. The 
 sick poor are admissible to the infirmary and asylum of 
 Glasgow, through the liberality of Mr. Campbell. Stones 
 of vast dimensions are found along the shores, and in 
 other places ; they are supposed to have fallen from the 
 erect position in which they were originally raised in 
 commemoration, it is said, of ancient battles. There are 
 
 JURA 
 
 also the ruins of many chapels of early date. In digging 
 the foundation for an inn at Lagg, several stone coffins 
 were found ; and in forming the road from Feoline to 
 Lagg, numerous urns, containing ashes, were discovered. 
 Silver coins of the reign of Charles I., also, were found 
 many years since. — See Colonsay, &c. 
 
 END OF VOL. I. 
 
 611 
 
 Gilbert and Rivington, Printers, St. John's SauARE, London.
 
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