> Q 1859 26,892 5717 468 6910 3633 63 1 327 2 16 16 48 14 1408 45,575 1860 65,899 8270 745 5420 6239 777 4 286 5 359 \7 8 124 88,143 Statement of Merchandise, destined for the West Coast of South America, trans- ported over the Panama Railroad for the two Years above named. Years. Number of packages. Jewelry, etc. Value of. Tons measurement. Tons weight. Total tons. 1859 1860 1063 8413 $90,342 1,809,000 f$ 1099f 3 198| 1130| C2 58 HAND-BOOK OF THE Statement of Merchandise from the West Coast of South America transported over the Panama Railroad for the two Years ending respectively July 31st, 1859 and 1860. Years. No. of Hides. Number of packages of Total. Skins. India- rubber. Bark. Cocoa. Tobacco. Orchilla. Sundries. Copper. 1859 1860 147 2017 979 2 188 571 1706 25 93 32 20 6243 174 11,850 Treasn YQ $ The above comprises only the merchandise brought under through bills of lading ; all other is included in the following table. Statement of Merchandise from Panama, N. ?., transported over the Panama Railroad for the two Years ending respectively July 31s*, 1859 and 1860, not under through Bills of Lading. Years. No. of Hides. Number of packages of Total. I M & 1 India-rub- ber. | Orchilla. Dye-wood. 1 ! ce is ll * || C0 1 1 | H "s 1 re* 1859 1860 35,721 29,869 166 220 6628 5453 42 95 2 45 1572 2413 25 164 14 1000 1 220 52 38 46 35 851 525 93 19 8 1 5 78 25 98 45,292 40,832 SPECIE. Year. Number of packages. Amount. 1860 28 $100,342 00 PANAMA RAILROAD. 61 P S GO M 05-* CM * co rH ? CM O5 L- CM CO CO rH 1 co cS m CM i 0- > a r > i O a 5 j ) i 1 i j 3 1 \ r 3 < 1 VI 5 O H -f o T p a ^ '> j i ^ j | 2 H 2 g 'd 1 3 1 O < j ^ 5 P I 3 !? u U t(-H o if 62 HAND-BOOK OF THE PSO c3 B PANAMA RAILROAD. *H OS ** O CO CO CO O O -0 HAND-BOOK OF THE PANAMA RAILROAD. 65 rcr Is Q *s ~ a ^ do C o .2 & rf r CQ gS S' SS8 o o o o o o mi SS? 8 8888 8 .2 68 HAND-BOOK OF THE < PANAMA RAILROAD. 69 70 HAND-BOOK OF THE The early history and present condition of the road, at least so much of it as has been thought would prove inter- esting and serviceable to the general reader, has been pre- sented. The sources of its present business have been shown, and some idea of its probable increase from these ; but a large and important field within the legitimate scope of the enterprise demands a little attention from its bearings on the future business of the road. A glance at the geo- graphical situation of the Isthmus of Panama, in its relation with Australia, China, Japan, and the Sandwich Islands, will discover the capacity of the transit to shorten the dis- tances from those countries to the markets of the United States by so many thousands of miles as must make it an eventual necessity for the trade, at least a large portion of it, to seek this, the only direct route between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.* TRAVELER'S GUIDE. As the traveler enters the harbor of Navy Bay he can not fail to observe the beauty of the scene spread out be- fore him. On the right and in front of the harbor, which sweeps around a semicircle of some three miles in extent, the primeval forest of the tropics, with its dense vinous un- Miles. * The distance from N.York to Sydney, Australia, via Cape Horn, is 12,870 " via Panama 9,950 In favor of Panama .-. 2,720 The distance from N. York to Honolulu, S'dwich Isl., via Cape Horn 13,560 " via Panama... 6,800 In favor of Panama 6,760 The distance from New York to Hong Kong, via Cape Horn 17,420 m Panama 11,850 In favor of Panama 5,570 The distance from New York to Jeddo, Japan, via Cape Horn 16,710 " ma Panama 10,220 In favor of Panama 6,490 Distance from England to Sydney, Australia, via Cape of G. Hope 12,828 via Panama 12,730 In favor of Panama 98 PANAMA RAILROAD. 73 dergrowth and its towering cocoa and palm trees, meets his view ; on the left, from the iron light-house on the extreme seaward point, the brightly-painted Americo-Spanish town of Aspinwall extends, its long covered wharves filled with the shipping of many nations. A verandaed street skirts the shore, and a dense equatorial forest rising up behind is relieved by the faint and misty mountain range, which forms the back-bone of the Isthmus, and connects the great Cordil- lera of the northern and southern continents -the Eocky Mountains and the Andes. This harbor (said to have been discovered by Columbus during his. third voyage, and by him named " Navy Bay") is three miles in length by two in breadth, with an average depth. of seven fathoms, affording good anchorage ground in every part. Since the establish- ment of the Panama Eailroad it has been a rendezvous for the United States Atlantic squadron, and one or more frigates of the first "class may usually be seen at anchor ; also a United States store-ship, which has its permanent station here. The city of Aspinwall, which has grown up from the necessity of its position as the Atlantic terminus of the rail- road, while answering its purpose as a receiving and tran- shipping depot, has but little, architecturally, to recommend it to notice, the dwellings, some two hundred in number, being of wood, and built in a style midway between the New England house and the verandaed structures usual in the tropics. They are built on land leased from the Com- pany by private individuals. T^he voyager coming to Aspinwall by the United States mail steam-ships will be landed at the end of an immense wharf belonging to the Company, and will find it worth his while to take a walk about the town ere making the transit of the Isthmus. First, it may not be amiss to notice the wharf itself, which extends from the shore out upon a coral reef, nearly a thousand feet, to where a depth of wa D 74 HAND-BOOK OF THE ter exists sufficient to float the largest ships. It is forty feet in breadth, and covered by a lofty metallic roof; the piles upon which it stands are coppered to protect them from the teredo, a boring worm which infests these waters, and rapidly destroys every kind of timber unless thus protected. At the upper end of the wharf a grove of cocoanut-trees shoots up through the flooring, and at any and every sea- son of the year the cocoanut, in the bud, the blossom, and full grown, may here be seen. Several large iron tanks are situated at the head of the wharf, each of a capacity of sev- eral thousand gallons. The whole island of Manzanilla, upon which Aspinwall is situated, a mile in length by three quarters in width, being a low coral foundation, has no springs of water, and that obtained by digging is so brack- ish that rain-water is used instead ; these tanks, filled by the rains which prevail for more than half the year, before the establishment of the great reservoir, furnished the supply of water for the shipping during the dry season. At the head of the wharf you reach the quadruple track of the railway. Proceeding toward its Atlantic terminus, you pass, on your left, the line of stores, shops, and hotels which were visible from the entrance of the harbor. The shops, perhaps half a dozen in number, usually display a very re- spectable assortment of goods, principally ready -made cloth- ing, fancy articles, and groceries. Among them are several quite extensive importing houses of French, English, and American merchandise, and Havana cigars for the South American market and the shipping visiting the port. The hotels,* of which there are, great and small, at least a dozen, have, for this country, very fair accommodation for all classes of travelers, at from one to four dollars per day ; * Probably the best accommodation will be found at the Howard, City, and Aspinwall Hotels. Usual charge for first class passengers $3 per day. Sec- ond class passengers are accommodated at the other houses at considerably lower rates. It is well to have the terms well understood beforehand. PANAMA KAILROAD. 75 but little business, however, is done among them except on the arrival of the passenger steamers of the California line. In 1852, when these hotels were erected, travelers were often detained here for several days, when the landlords drove a brisk trade ; but now the ship-loads of passengers are seldom detained here more than two or three hours, and, although a brisk business is done for the time, the pub- lican finds his opportunity too brief to realize much profit. At the end of the row stands the Panama Eailroad Com- pany's office, a respectable fire-proof two-story brick build- ing, into the upper windows of which the wires of the Isth- mus Telegraph converge. The poles, or, more properly, the pillars, which serve to support the wires of this telegraph line, from their symmetry, strength, and novel construction, are worthy of particular notice. They are apparently of hewn stone. Some two years since, after much trouble and expense had resulted in consequence of the rapid decay of the wooden poles formerly used, Colonel Totten conceived the idea of moulding a support of concrete. A small straight stick of the necessary height was placed upright, and surrounded by a jointed wooden mould, fifteen inches in diameter at the base, tapering to about eight inches at the top, and sunk into the earth sufficiently for firm sup- port ; this was filled with concrete, and allowed to stand for several days. When the mould was removed, it was found firm and strong, and apparently every way adapted to the purpose. This fact once settled, the entire line was supplied with these quasi stone columns, but little exceeding the un- sightly wooden poles in expense, and perfectly weather and insect proof. It is now nearly two years since their estab- lishment, and they bid fair, extraordinary occurrences ex- cepted, to last for a century. Farther along the track, on your right, you pass the main railroad wharf, at which any day in the year several ves- sels, sail or steam, may be seen actively discharging car- 76 HAND-BOOK OF THE goes for shipment across the road. A couple of hundred yards brings you to a massive stone structure three hund- red feet long by eighty wide, through whose broad-arched entrances a triple track is laid. This is the freight depot of the Panama Kailroad Company, and the following de- scription by a recent visitor will give the traveler an idea of its usual internal appearance : " Bales of quina bark from the interior were piled many tiers deep, and reached to the iron triangular-braced roof of the edifice. Ceroons of indigo and cochineal from San Salvador and Guatemala; coffee from Costa Eica, and ca- cao from Ecuador ; sarsaparilla from Nicaragua, and ivory- nuts from Porto Bello;. copper ore from Bolivia.; silver bars from Chili; boxes of hard dollars from Mexico, and gold ore from California; hides from the whole range of the North and South Pacific coast ; hundreds of bushels of glistening pearl-oyster shells from the fisheries of Panama lay heaped along the floor, flanked by no end of North American beef, pork, flour, bread, and cheese, for the pro- visioning of the Pacific coast, and English and French goods for the same markets ; while in a train of cattle-cars that stood on one of the tracks were huddled about a hund- red meek-looking lamas from Peru, on their way to the isl- and of Cuba, among whose mountains they are used for beasts of burden as well as for their wool." Its situation is on the direct line of the road, its seaward side opening by great doors out upon the waters of the bay, so as to allow vessels of light tonnage to discharge cargo di- rectly into the depot, while for the heavier a covered wharf extends from the centre into six fathom water. On emerg- ing from the farther extremity of the freight-house, a hund- red paces brings you to the MingiHo, or native market-place. A few lusty half-naked negroes, descended from the Afri- can slaves of the old Spanish dominion (who form a large proportion of the literal population of the Isthmus) are gen- PANAMA RAILROAD. 77 erally seen supplying their customers with fish, cassava, ba- nanas, plantains, and many other fruits and vegetables of the country, from out the bongoes which lay alongside the wharf, or, grouped on the shore over smoking kettles of san- coche, ladling out this favorite compound to their native pa- trons. Large quantities of the vegetable ivory-nut are also brought here by the natives for barter and sale. Some- times a few aboriginal Indians from the region of San Bias (some sixty miles down the coast) may be seen here. Bath- er under the medium stature, they are broad-shouldered and muscular, with the straight black hair and high cheek-bones of the North American tribes. They have a peculiar in- terest from the fact that they belong to a tribe never sub- jugated by the Conquistador es, but who have maintained an unwavering hostility to the Spaniard since the first discov- ery of the country, and have cherished such a jealousy of their independence that, to the present day, no white man has been permitted to land upon their shores. Their usual dress consists of a simple fold of cloth tied about the loins, though they are not unfrequently seen clad after the man- ner of the Spanish natives, in a loose shirt and loose cotton or hempen trowsers. Though apparently apathetic and uncommunicative, there is a considerable degree of intelli- gence in their expression, and a conscious independence in their bearing, that gives one a fair idea of the races which Columbus and his followers found here in the days of old. They have recently allowed one or two small trading schooners twice or thrice a year to anchor near their shores and traffic with them, receiving calicoes, beads, and other ornaments, machetas, etc., in exchange for tortoise-shell, ivory-nuts, and gold dust; but every attempt to explore their country has been uniformly resisted. Their chief weapon is the bow and arrow (the arrow armed with fish- bones), in the use of which they are said to be very skillful, and to be in the habit of using it effectively not only upon 78 HAND-BOOK OF THE land, but in their waters ; with barbed palm- wood arrows some four feet in length, they haye the reputation of being able to transfix large fish at a distance of two or three feet beneath the surface. Along the opposite side of the railway from the Mingillo lies a broad lagoon covering a couple of acres, and connect- ed with the waters of the harbor by a narrow opening un- der the road. This lagoon is crossed at about the centre by a recently-made street, and will soon be still farther reduced in extent by others. A line of low tenements, principally occupied by the native population, a few stores, and a large hotel, the Aspinwall House, bound its opposite shore, be- yond which a dense swamp-forest shuts off the view. Pro- ceeding a little farther, you pass "Johnson's Ice-house," or, rather, if you have an eye to creature comfort, you will not pass it, for it is a depot for ice and such things for the in- ner man as may be preserved in it of northern product. Five ships a year come consigned to this establishment from the Boston Ice Company, and Johnson, " the Ice-man of the Isthmus," is decidedly a man whose acquaintance is worth cultivating in this climate. Turning now to the left, to- ward the sea-beach, which forms a semicircle around this end of the island, the driving surf of centuries has washed up along its whole extent a wide barrier of shells and coral. Upon this you will first observe the hospitals of the Kail- road Company, a couple of large, airy buildings, surround- ed by generous tiers of piazzas, about which a general air of tidiness and comfort prevails. Although built for the exclusive use of the Company, strangers requiring medical aid are permitted to avail themselves of their advantages. A little to the left is a long wooden building, which con- tains the lecture-room, library, and club-room of the em- ployes of the Company. A well-selected library of sever- al hundred volumes, and the standard periodicals and jour- nals, may be seen here ; there are also materials for a snug PANAMA RAILROAD. 79 game of billiards, .backgammon, or chess. Three or four neat little cottages come next along the line of the beach, the residences of the principal officers of the Company, with little garden-plats in the rear, and an occasional cocoa-tree throwing pleasant shadows over them. A little farther on is a fine corrugated iron dwelling, the residence of the Koy- al Mail Steam Packet Company's agent ; next to this is seen the general domestic rendezvous of the Kailroad Company's officials (usually known as the "Mess-house"), imbedded in a grove of cocoa and banana trees. "Within fifty yards of the rolling surf, the sea-breeze ever playing through its surrounding foliage, it would be difficult to find a more de- sirable tropical residence. Still farther on to the right are the buildings of the ter- minus, car repositories, etc., and machine-shops, whose tall chimneys send up steady columns of smoke, while the ring of many hammers breaks cheerily upon the ear. Along the beach a nicely-graded road has been constructed, which extends the entire circumference of the island, and for more than two thirds of its course it passes along or through the dense and luxuriant tropical forest with which nearly one half the island is still covered. The " Paseo Coral," as this beautiful walk or drive is called, was built by the citizens of Aspinwall, every facility and aid being rendered by the Eailroad Company; and morning and evening, especially on Sundays and holidays, it is a favorite resort of the inhabit- ants of all classes, a few on horseback or in light wagons, but the great majority on foot. Any lover of the. beautiful in nature will find it worth his while to make a tour of this "Paseo;" on one side charming glimpses of the ocean and of the " Archipelago" (which cuts off the island of Manza- nilla from the main land) meet the eye at every turn, and at almost any point the conchologist may step out upon the coral reef and find sea-shells, fans, and coral to an indefi- nite extent ; on the other, a great variety of tropical vege- 80 HAND-BOOK OF THE tation invites the lover of botany to cull from its varied and luxuriant growth ; here and there narrow paths lead from it to little native plantations of banana, papaya, and yam, imbedded in which the native hut, with its severely simple furnishing, may be seen, and will convey to the trav- eler an idea of the habits and character of the native in- habitant of this country. The land in and about Aspin- wall, though highly productive, has not yet been brought under proper cultivation to any extent, though several promising plantations have been recently established by foreign residents ; fowls, yams, and tropical fruits are, how- ever, found in plenty, and native beef is abundant ; the har- bor also abounds in excellent fish, and the neighboring isl- ands afford an unlimited supply of the finest green turtle, the usual market-price of which is five cents per pound. Aspinwall, though belonging to New Granada, has a sepa- rate civic government, the control of which is possessed chiefly by residents from the JJnited States, most of whom are connected with the Panama Eailroad Company. JOURNEY OVER THE ROAD. While the principal portion of the route of the Panama Eailroad affords to the traveler but little of historic interest apart from its own construction, passing as it does through the heart of a primeval tropical forest for many miles of its extent, and among the wildest and most picturesque mount- ain scenery, along beautiful rivers, fertile plains, and luxu- riant lowlands, for the remainder it affords the observant traveler an opportunity of an easy enjoyment and acquaint- ance with intertropical nature unsurpassed in any part of the world. Though in point of climate a perpetual summer reigns, the summer and winter are represented by the dry and wet seasons, which produce in the appearance of the vegetation a constant succession of changes in color and form ever new and beautiful. From May until October PANAMA RAILROAD. 83 the rains fall almost daily for several hours ; there are usual- ly also several hours each day of bright sunshine. Occa- sionally throughout the wet season the rain falls for several days without cessation, and in violence and amount seldom if ever seen in northern latitudes. During this season the forests are clothed in brilliant and varied greens, and many of the large forest- trees are covered with blossoms of white, scarlet, or yellow, which, together with the myriads of par- asites, epiphytes, and flowering vines, often produce the most gorgeous effects. During the dry season, which occu- pies the rest of the year, while showers are not uncommon, it is usual to see two, and even three months pass without rain, and the vegetation is scarcely less beautiful than in the wet, though toward the latter part many of the larger trees are destitute of foliage, and the browns and yellows of dy- ing leaves are seen on every side ; yet the rich greens still preponderate sufficiently to give a decided summer charac- ter to the whole ; and the evergreen palms, from which hang numberless clusters of ripe palm-nuts of the richest scarlet ; the lowland trees, that blossom at every season ; and the passifloras, and many other beautiful flowers, that develop only in the dry season, make it difficult to say which of the two seasons will afford the rarest botanical and floral treat to the traveler ; at any and every season the vegetation is varied, luxuriant, and gorgeous beyond comparison. There, are, besides, at almost every step, objects novel and inter- esting among the riches of the animal kingdom, and also in the varied geological formations displayed along the line of the road ; in fact, few locations in the world present a more promising field of research for the botanist, the geol- ogist, or the student of natural history. Eminent scien- tific men from the United States, England, and Germany have already spent considerable time and labor in explora- tions here, but the results of their researches have not as yet been given to the public. As, however, few travelers 84 HAND-BOOK OF THE over the road have any opportunity other than that afford- ed by the rapid railway transit to examine the objects of interest on its course, a brief account of the more promi- nent and readily recognized will perhaps be deemed suffi- cient for the general reader. In making the journey over the railroad to the Pacific terminus, starting at the depot at Aspinwall, a third . of a mile brings you to that part of the island shore where the railway leaves it, and crosses over the frith to the swamps of the main land. At this point, which is crossed by an artificial isthmus (built originally of piles and crib-work, but since replaced by solid stone and earth), the channel is about two hundred yards in width, broadening rapidly to the eastward into a miniature archipelago, with a dozen little islands overgrown with mangrove bushes, and lying upon its glassy surface like emeralds upon a mirror. To the westward it again expands into a wide, placid basin, only separated by a narrow belt of foliage from the waters of the bay. The shores on every hand are skirted with a dense growth of mangrove bushes, which droop deep into the water, while directly in front, through the vista opened by the railway, an apparently interminable forest meets the eye. These waters abound in the beautiful varieties offish known among the natives as "flores del mar," or "the flowers of the sea :" in shape and size they resemble the sun-fish of our Northern lakes, and are remarkable for their varied and brilliant colors. The mangrove bushes are not unlike the banyan-tree in the manner of their growth. Their branches, shooting down- ward, frequently enter the soil, take root, and, interlacing again and again, form a barrier requiring a stout hatchet or machete to overcome. Many of the branches which dip into the water are loaded with a variety of the Crustaceae, almost, if not quite, identical with our Northern oysters, va- rying in size from a dime to a dollar : several pounds often MOUNT HOPE. PANAMA RAILROAD. 87 depend from a single bough. Submerged by every tide, they are well nourished and exceedingly palatable, and, al- though so small, well worth the trouble of opening. En- glish snipe, plover, teal, heron, and pelican are abundant about here at certain seasons. About a mile farther on, to the left of a spur of high land, through which the railway passes by a deep long cut, is seen the tall forest of Mount Hope, upon which is located the general cemetery of Aspinwall. A pleasant winding path through the thick undergrowth soon brings you upon the spot. Dense foliage surrounds it on every side. This place was selected for a burial-ground shortly after the commencement of the road, and many victims to the hard- ships of the work and the virulence of the climate were then buried here ; but those days of trial have passed, and the long grass waving over their graves tells of the years since then. A few are recent, and marked by simple monu- ments ; among them will be noticed several of the officers of the United States Home Squadron. The lamented Strain (whose suffering and heroism as the leader of the ill- fated Darien expedition are still fresh in the memory of his countrymen) lies buried here. The surrounding woods, es- pecially toward evening and in the early morning, are vocal with the notes of numerous birds. The sweet and sonorous whistle of the turpiale and the cooing of the turtle-dove mingle with the harsh cries of the parrot tribe and the still harsher note of the toucan. Frequent opportunities occur of procuring these different varieties of birds from the na- tives, as they are more or less numerous along the entire line of the road, and become domesticated with little trouble. The turpiale, which is about the size of a robin, with deep black and bright yellow plumage, is quite equal to the mag- pie in intelligence and cunning, and is one of the finest whistlers known. The toucan, a dark scarlet-breasted bird, about the size of a pigeon, with a heavy serrated bill six or 88 HAND-BOOK OF THE seven inches in length, is one of the ornithological curiosi- ties of this region ; picking up its food on the point of its huge beak, by a sudden jerk it tosses it up half a yard, and as it falls catches it deep in its throat ; it also makes extra- ordinary motions over the water when attempting to drink. The habits of the toucan in this respect were noticed by the early Spanish- American priests, who, averring that this bird, in drinking, made the sign of the cross over the water, called it "Dios te de" (God gives it thee). Considerable land in the vicinity of Mount Hope has been cleared, and cultivated with success and profit. Proceeding along the track be- yond Mount Hope, you begin to bring more fully into view the wondrous wealth of the Isthmian forest. For a space of fifty feet on either side of the solid track embankment the original growth has been swept away and replaced by a rich display of aquatic plants, through whose broad shin- ing leaves myriads of callas and long, slim-petaled pond- lilies struggle out to fill the air with their delicious per- fume. This low and recent vegetation is walled in by a primeval growth of a variety and luxuriance that almost defies description. Palm-trees, slender and tall, from under whose crowns hang long scarlet and yellow tassels palms, low and huge, with trunks scarce lifted above the slimy ooze, sending out graceful pinnate leaves half a dozen yards in length ; great cedro and espabe trees, towering up like giants for a hundred feet, then sending out strong arms that almost clasp each other across the clearing, their trunks covered with thick vines and parasites. These and many other varieties are so closely set and interwoven together that the eye fails to penetrate into the depths of the forest. The great number and variety of parasitic growths can not fail to attract constant attention. Almost every tree and shrub supports more or less of these treacherous leeches, in form and size ranging from the simple tuft of grass to the enormous growths whose branches equal in magnitude those PANAMA RAILROAD. 89 of the largest trees, and frequently exceed those of the poor victim from which their strength is drawn. Some are seen which had originally taken root upon the trunks of large and thrifty trees, which, under their exhausting demands and vice-like embrace, have died and rotted out, leaving the well-conditioned leech, though a mere shell, upright, and so like the original tree that, except for occasional apertures which discloses the hollowness within, their villainy might at a little distance escape detection. Many bear beautiful and fragrant flowers. A curious and exceedingly common variety springs from seeds deposited in the ordure of birds upon the highest trees, sending long fibrous tendrils, with- out a single branching twig, down to the earth, when it again takes root, and increases in size until it frequently at- tains a diameter of five or six inches. Often trees, so de- cayed that otherwise they must have fallen, are by these supports retained in their upright position for many years. The smaller ones, combining pliability with great strength, are much used as cordage by the natives. Trailing vines and blossoming creepers are on every side in great profu- sion and luxuriance, enwrapping the trees and hanging in variegated festoons from the branches. As you proceed, every moment new, and, if possible, richer varieties of vege- tation pass in quick review, until you are almost lost in wonder' and admiration. At about three miles from the terminus a bend is cut off in the small sluggish stream, called the Mindee, whose waters are half concealed by the overhanging verdure ; along its banks the tall and graceful bamboo, that giant of the grasses, adds a new beauty to the scene. The waters of the Mindee, which empties into Navy Bay about a mile and a half from Aspinwall, abound with alligators, often of great size, which afford plenty of exciting sport to parties from the city, who make occasional incur- sions upon them, and to the natives, wha value them greatly for their oil, which is used for medication, and their teeth, 90 HAND-BOOK OF THE which, are worn as potent charms. Not unfrequently these ugly beasts crawl out into the pools along the railway track, where they may be seen basking in the sun, scarce- ly deigning to lift their unwieldy heads as the train thun- ders by. In the immediate vicinity of the Mindee some of the lands are dry enough to be susceptible of tillage. Native huts may here and there be seen near the road surrounded by patches of plantains, bananas, Indian-corn, and sugar- cane. Beyond this the forest vegetation is varied and en- riched by a species of the palm, from the fruit of which the palm-oil of commerce is extracted. It differs little in form from the tasseled variety which has been previously no- ticed, except that it attains a greater size, and, instead of the gaudy tassel, bears immense clusters of scarlet nuts about as large as a lime ; the clusters, shooting out from the trunk of the tree just underneath its foliage, hang by a sin- gle stem, and are often two or three feet in length, con- trasting vividly with the surrounding verdure. The palm- tree, that prince of the vegetable kingdom, which is so characteristic of tropical vegetation, is nowhere more abun- dant in variety and beatity than upon the Isthmus, no less than twenty-one varieties having already been found and classified here. Conspicuous among them for their practi- cal use to the natives of the country are the "wine- palm," from the sap of which is distilled a sweet and intoxicating beverage; the "motombo," or sago palm, which furnishes the sago ; the "ivory palm," producing the vegetable ivory- nut of commerce; the "glove palm," which furnishes, by the covering of its spatha, ready-made bags, capable of holding grain, etc., to the amount of nearly half a bushel ; the "cabbage palm," the tender shoots upon the summit of which resemble in appearance and nutritiousness the or- dinary cabbage ; others also there are from which they man- ufacture flax, sugar, various domestic utensils, weapons, and . PANAMA KAILRO AD. 93 food ; besides this, the habitations of the people are framed of their trunks and roofed with their leaves. Passing the seventh mile-post, you emerge from the swamp, and come to the Gatun Station, located upon the eastern bank of the Eio Chagres, which is at this point about fifty yards in width, and here makes a great bend, opening beautiful vistas through the dense forests up and down its course. This bank of the river is formed by a ridge of low hills, across the foot of which the railway runs. A few yards from the road, on the high ground to the left, are the buildings of the station. A large, two-story framed building, about forty feet in length by thirty in breadth, surrounded by piazzas and balustrades, is the residence of the local superintendent and the foreign workmen employ- ed on this section. -Suitable out-buildings are situated in the rear, and a little garden in front, where the roses and peonies, the pinks and pansies of our northern clime, chal- lenge comparison with the orchids, fuchsias, and passifloras of the tropics ; and there are radishes, cucumbers, and let- tuce contrasting curiously with the native products of the place. With a few unimportant exceptions, .this establish- ment is similar to that of all the stations, which are situ- ated about four miles distant from each other along the en- tire length of the road. The duty of the local superintend- ent is not only to keep the track along his section in per- fect repair, but to give his personal attention to all matters which can in any way impede the safety or dispatch of the regular trains; and to this ample service, in a great meas- ure, is due the immunity from accident which has charac- terized the running of the Panama Railroad from its first establishment to the present day. On the opposite shore of the river stands the ancient native town of Gatun, which is composed of forty or fifty huts of cane and palm, and sit- uated on the edge of a broad savanna that extends back to a range of hills a mile or two distant. This place is 94 HAND-BOOK OF THE worthy of mention as a point where, in the days by -gone, the bongo-loads of California travelers used to stop for re- freshment on their way up the river; where "eggs were then sold four for a dollar, and the rent for a hammock was two dollars a night." From Gatun the course of the road lies along the base of an irregular line of high lands that rise up from the eastern side of the valley of the Eio' Chagres, and a few hundred yards brings you to the Eio Gatun, a tributary of the Chagres, which is crossed by an iron truss-girder bridge of ninety -seven feet span. The dense swamp-growth looms up on either side like a wall, while rising out of it, close on the left, are two fine conical peaks, called" Lion" and "Tiger" hills, which attract attention by the regu- larity of their outlines and the dense and gorgeous for- ests with which they are covered. These hills received their titles from the immense numbers of howling monkeys which inhabited this district previous to and during the construction of the road, and whose frequent roaring made the night hideous, and were often mistaken by the unin- itiated for the formidable animals which their cries close- ly resembled. These, as well as several smaller varieties, still abound in the neighborhood, and their howlings at nightfall are frequently heard, but the progress of improve- ment has driven them from the immediate vicinity of the road. Passing the Lion Hill Station, which has a fine cultivated clearing on the high ground behind it, the vegetation be- comes less dense, and more decidedly aquatic in its char- acter ; large patches of cane-brake, huge tree-ferns, low palms in great variety, and scrubby mangroves, rise out of the dark pools in the swamps by the road-side. Along this section is found that rare variety of the orchid family known as the " Espiritu Santo." Its blossom, which is of an alabaster whiteness, approaches the tulip in form, and PANAMA RAILROAD. 95 gives forth a powerful perfume not unlike that of the mag- nolia ; but it is neither for its beauty of shape, its' purity of color, nor its fragrance that it is chiefly esteemed. Eest- ing within the cup of the flower, so marvelously formed that no human skill, be it never so cunning, could excel the resemblance* lies the prone image of a dove. Its exqui- sitely moulded pinions hang lifeless from its sides, the head bends gently forward, the tiny bill, tipped with a delicate carmine, almost touches its snow-white breast, while the expression of the entire image (and it requires no stretch of the imagination to see the expression) seems the very in- carnation of meekness and ethereal innocence. No one who has seen it can wonder that the early Spanish Catho- lic, ever on the alert for some phenomenon upon which to fasten the idea of a miraculous origin, should have bowed down before this matchless flower, and named it " Flor del Espiritu Santo," or "the Flower of the Holy Ghost," nor that the still more superstitious Indian should have accepted the imposing title, and ever after have gazed upon it with awe and devotional reverence, ascribing a peculiar sanctity even to the ground upon which it blossoms, and to the very air which it ladens with its delicious fragrance. It is found most frequently in low and marshy grounds, springing from decayed logs and crevices in the rocks. Some of the most vigorous plants attain a height of six or seven feet ; the leaf-stalks are jointed, and throw out broad lanceolate leaves by pairs ; the flower-stalks spring from the bulb, and' are wholly destitute of leaves, often bearing a cluster of not less than a dozen or fifteen flowers. It is an annual, blooming in July, August, and September, and has in sev- eral instances been successfully cultivated in the conserva- tories of foreign lands. In former times bulbs of the plant could rarely be obtained, and then only with much labor and difficulty; but since their localities have become fa- miliar to the less reverential Anglo-Saxon, great numbers 96 HAND-BOOK OF THE have been gathered and distributed throughout different parts of the world, though their habits and necessities have been so little appreciated that efforts to bring them to flower usually prove ineffectual ; if, however, they are pro- cured in May or June, after the flower-stalk has started, when sufficient appropriate nutriment resides in the* bulb to de- velop the perfect flowers, they can be safely transplanted, and will flower under the ordinary treatment adapted to the bulbous plants of colder climates. The bulbs, dried or growing, may be procured either at Aspinwall or Panama at from two to five dollars per dozen. The next station is called "Ahorca Lagarto," " to hang the lizard," deriving its name from a landing-place on the Chagres near by ; this,- again, named from having, years back, been pitched upon as an encampment by a body of government troops, who suspended from a tree their ban- ner, on which was a lizard, the insignia of the Order of Santiago. The land around this station, though low and level, is covered with a noble forest-growth, among which is found the huge cedro-tree, from which the native hollows out his canoe, sometimes of fifteen or twenty tons burthen ; its broad, plane-shaped roots extend out on every side like buttresses, and its trunk towers up, without a branch, for a hundred feet, .supporting a canopy of foliage often fifty yards in diameter. A short distance from the station, close to the left side of the track, is one called " Stephens's Tree," not less than five or six yards in diameter at its base. A luxuriant growth of vines decorates its trunk, and, winding out upon its branches, hangs down like a thickly-woven curtain to the lesser growth beneath. Its trunk is studded with parasites, and usually fine specimens of the Orchidaceae may be seen blooming among its foliage. Several varieties of mahogany are also found here, and occasionally the lignum-vitse-tree ; the most of the trees, however, are only known by local names, which can convey PANAMA RAILROAD. 101 to the traveler but little idea of their character. Along the track may be seen the sensitive plant, with its feathery pink blossoms growing in wild profusion. The Agave Americana, or wild pine-apple, is also abundant. This plant is similar in form and growth to the cultivated pine- apple, except that the leaves are often eight or ten feet in length, and afford a vegetable fibre which makes excellent cloth ; the fruit, which is edible and not unpleasant, is of the. most brilliant scarlet, and forms a beautiful contrast with the surrounding foliage. A mile or so farther on the forest becomes less lofty, and the traveler soon passes what may easily be mistaken for the overgrown ruins of some ancient city: walls, watch-towers, tall columns, and Gothic arches are on either hand, and it will be difficult to realize that Nature alone, with a lavish and fantastic hand, has shaped this curious scene out of myriads of convolvuti ; whole clumps of trees are covered in by them, so that they appear like the remains of huge fortifications ; tall stumps of palm look like broken columns overgrown with verdure ; and when they lean together, as in several instances is the case, great Gothic arches are formed. So dense is this en- shrouding web of creepers that scarce a tree or branch can be recognized through it over a space of several acres, and the whole of this wondrous display is, at certain seasons, decorated with bright blue trumpet-shaped flowers. Leaving behind this city of verdure, a chain of high and densely- wooded hills on the left is brought into view, and, winding along its base, another station, called "Bujio Sol- dado," or " Buyo Soldado" (" the Soldier's Zfome"), is passed. Here opens, on the right, a fine view up the Eio Chagres. A mile farther on is an excellent quarry of freestone along- side the track, from which large quantities of building and ballasting material have been quarried by the Company. A little farther on, upon the edge of the steep river bank, is the site of a cottage, notable as having been the favorite 102 HANP-BOOK OF THE residence of the late J. L. Stephens, the celebrated author and traveler, who spent much of his later life in developing this great railway enterprise; but little now remains ex- cept its ruins, and the stately palm that long ago threw its shadow over his once beautiful garden. From this point beautiful views up and down the river are visible, while across, the high opposing bank stretches back in a broad plateau, covered with low foliage, from among which occa- sional tall trees shoot up, until it meets a range of distant hills. Continuing your course, with an occasional view of the river, which winds like a great serpent along this tor- tuous valley, you soon come to the native town of "Bueno Vistita" ("beautiful little view"). This is a collection of thirty or forty rude palm huts, skirting the track, and occu- pied by the families of native laborers along the road. A few native women, bareheaded, in long, heavily -flounced muslin dresses, off at the shoulder, and usually a naked "picaninny" astride the hip, forms the chief feature of the population, while the balance is made up of dogs, pigs, chick- ens, and children, in a charming state of affiliation. Yery few of the aborigines of the country are found on this por- tion of the Isthmus, the inhabitants being, for the most part, a mixture of Spaniard and Indian. There are, however, many Africans and half-breeds, descended from the old Spanish slaves of this province, or imported from Cartha- gena and Jamaica. The former, usually peaceable and in dustrious, cultivate little patches of land, and occasionally raise a few cattle ; but the latter are a restless, turbulent set, requiring a strong hand to keep them in subjection ; being, however, hardy and athletic, they have been much employ- ed as laborers on the road. A glance into the huts of these people and at their surroundings will give an idea of the manner of living of the greatest portion of the native inhab- itants of the country. The body of the dwelling is com- posed of bamboo ; the roof is thatched with leaves of the PANAMA RAILROAD. 105 palm ; the floor is the bare earth ; occasionally there is a loft, which is reached by an upright post, with deep notches cut on either side answering for stairs. Hammocks of veg- etable fibre or cotton cloth %re the usual beds, which also constitute the favorite lounging-place during the day. Be- sides these, a rude bench or two, a kettle, half a dozen earthen platters and water-jars, and a few gourds for water, complete the furniture of the native hut. Sun-dried and fresh beef, and pork, eggs, and fowls, are cheap and plenty. Their food, however, is mostly vegetable, the yam and plan- tain holding the chief place. The 'bread-fruit is plentiful, and grows spontaneously. Eice is raised, and consumed to a considerable extent ; and a large variety of tropical fruits TUB AVOCADO PEAE. are abundant. Besides the pine-apple, orange, lemon, lime, and banana, which arrive at great perfection here, there E2 106 HAND-BOOK OF THE are many kinds of fruit seldom seen out of the tropics, which are delicious and wholesome ; the bread-fruit, the av- ocado or alligator pear, the papaya, the Mamei and star-ap- ples, the chirimoya, the mangl), the zapote, the granadilla (fruit of the passion- vine), and many others, growing spon- taneously or with the most careless cultivation. The Spanish language is universally spoken by the na- tives, greatly corrupted, however, by provincialisms. In disposition the native is usually peaceable and inoffensive. The Eoman Catholic religion is universally professed, but their ideas of it, beyond a superstitious appreciation of the power and influence of the priests, and the efficacy of holy relics and tokens, are exceedingly limited. Squatter sovereignty obtains here on a very liberal scale, each citizen being entitled to claim, occupy, and hold "all that lot, piece, or parcel of land" that can be distinctly seen from any given point thereon, of the unoccupied lands of the government. The Spaniard and half-breed frequently avail themselves of this privilege, carrying on cattle-raising to a considerable extent, besides occasionally producing a little sugar, rice, etc., for market. The general class of na- tives, however, are gregariously inclined, and seldom covet more than enough for a little hut and garden-patch which supplies the necessities of life. Passing a couple of miles more of forest, intersected by one gr two small tributaries of the Chagres Eiver, you ar- rive at the Frijoli Station; here, during the dry season, may be seen the gorgeous scarlet passion-flower, as well as the purple variety, in great abundance. Occasionally small gangs of natives are seen engaged in clearing away the re- cent growths along the track with their machetas. The machete is a sort of hiltless broadsword, from two to three feet in length, heavy, straight, and pointed, with a handle of wood or bone, and is the universal companion of the native of this country ; with it he cuts his path through the tangled PANAMA RAILROAD. 107 forest, clears his little plantation, builds his hut ; with it, too, he plants hjs crops and reaps them ; it is usually his only weapon of offense and defense ; and from the half-grown boy to the gray-headed patriarch, you seldom find one, waking or sleeping, without his cherished machete. This section is rich in its variety of the birds, beasts, reptiles, and insects peculiar to intertropical America. Here are found frequent colonies of the oriole, or hanging-bird, whose beautifully- woven nests, often two or three feet long, may be seen de- pending by scores from the trees. Several richly-colored varieties of parrots and toucans, trogons, tangers, humming- birds, etc., abound. Grouse and the crested wild turkey are found on the higher grounds of the interior. The tapir is occasionally found in the river and marshy grounds adjoin- ing. Monkeys in variety, the opossum, the ant-eater, the pec- cary, or wild hog, the sloth, the deer, bear, cougar, and two or three varieties of the tiger-cat, are native here. Among the many varieties of the lizard tribe which abound is the iguana, which grows to a large size, viz., from three to six feet in length, and is eagerly sought for by the natives for its flesh, which is tender and delicate as a chicken, and also for its eggs. Females of this species are sometimes cap- tured, cut open, the eggs removed, the animal permitted to escape, and the natives aver that after this barbarous pro- ceeding they uniformly recover. The eggs are about the size of a marble, yellow and shriveled, and may be seen hanging in bunches for sale in any native market, and are by no means unpalatable. Land-crabs abound in great numbers, and are esteemed a delicate article of food. The most common variety is of a pale blue color, and as large as half a cocoanut. Stories are told of their rapacity and carnivorous tastes that almost surpass belief. It is said that the largest animals, dead or wounded past resistance, are frequently reduced by them to whitened ^skeletons in a sin- gle night. There are several other smaller varieties, some 108 HAND-BOOK OF THE of which are beautifully colored. Among the venomous insects, the tarantula, the centipede, and the scorpion are frequently met. Among the troublesome insects are white, red, and black ants, musquitoes, sand-flies, fleas, garapatos, or wood-ticks, and the chigoe, or jigger, which last not only bites, but burrows under the skin, and there deposits its eggs, which, if not speedily removed, will hatch out a troub- lesome nest of minute worms, producing great inflamma- tory disturbance in the part. As, however, they are at first very superficial, and inclosed in a little membranous sac, this is easily removed entire with a needle, and no farther trouble ensues ; they are fortunately not common here, and seldom annoy any but the barefooted native. Yenomous snakes, though occasionally seen, are not common. The boa constrictor is native here, and sometimes is found from twelve to eighteen feet in length ; it is, however, exceed- ingly rare to hear of any serious injury having been done by any of them. The alligator, which is found more or less plentifully in all parts of the Chagres and its tributaries, and the adjacent streams and swamps, frequently attacks and destroys dogs and cattle, and occasional instances have occurred where the natives, imprudently venturing into the waters infested with them, have fallen a prey to their ra- pacity. Leaving Frijoli, fine fields of Indian-corn may be seen here and there nestled under the hills; dense groves of palms and superb displays of convolvuli are also found along this section for a couple of miles, when you approach the lofty banks of the Chagres at Barbacoas, and cross the river by a huge wrought-iron bridge six hundred and twenty -five feet in length, eighteen in breadth, and stand- ing forty feet above the surface of the water, and said to be one of the longest and finest iron bridges in the world. After crossing the Chagres at this point, instead of low grounds and virgin forests, a beautiful stretch of meadow- PANAMA RAILROAD. 118 lands, bounded by high precipitous hills, meets the view ; while the river, broad and swift, curves around like a horseshoe through its deep channel on the left and behind, displaying along its banks groups of a gigantic species of caoutchouc-tree, that breaks the outline of dense palm and cocoa groves. The cultivation of the lands at this point is said to date back for more than two centuries, and to have been worked originally by the Jesuits. At about half a mile from the bridge the San Pablo Station is, passed, and a little farther on a fine quarry of recent volcanic rock; from thence, through occasional cleared and cultivated lands, you pass to the station at Mamei and the native town of Gorgona, noted in the earlier days of Chagres Eiver travel as a place where the wet and jaded traveler was accustomed to worry out the night on a raw hide, exposed to the insects and the rain, and in the morning, if he was fortunate, regale him- self on jerked beef and plantains. The road now, leaving the course of the river, passes on through deep clay banks and rocky cuts, presenting little novelty beyond the mag- nitude of the labor expended upon them in establishing the railway, until, sweeping around a hill, the beautiful meadow-lands of Matachin open to the view. Here, rising in their stateliness, the classic sheaves of the royal palm shed an air of Eastern beauty over the landscape. A na- tive village dots the foreground ; on the left the waters of the Chagres, broadened at this point by the Eio Obispo (its greatest tributary), is seen through the ceiba groves that skirt its banks, while on the right and in front the scene is bounded by a group of conical hills covered with short grass and studded with palms. The completion of the Panama Eailroad in 1855 was here celebrated with great ceremony and rejoicing, and the corner-stone of a monu- ment to its originators and constructors was erected upon the crest of the highest and most beautiful of these hills. 114 HAND-BOOK OF THE The railway has several side branches at Matachin, and is the usual point of meeting for the trains from either ter- minus. As there is usually a little delay on such occasions, the natives take advantage of it to traffic with the pas- sengers. Almost every hut displays something for sale,: NATIVE DUT AT MATACHIN. cakes, "dulces," or native candy, and the various fruits of the region. Here the oranges are unusually fine. There is also a saloon, kept by a native, where very good English beer, French claret, crackers and cheese, etc., may be ob- tained. From Matachin, passing along the base of '''Monu- ment Hill" the narrow valley of the Eio Obispo is entered, and its waters are crossed by stout iron bridges twice with- in the distance of a mile ; then you pass the Obispo Station, and continue along the course of the Obispo Eiver, over a fine rolling and luxuriant woodland, where the delicious wild mango, the zapote, the nispero, and the guava are fre- PANAMA RAILROAD. 119 quently seen ; also occasional native huts, surrounded by cultivated fields. From the station at Obispo the grade is ascending, with a maximum of sixty feet to the mile. Con- tinuing to rise for about three miles, you pass the " Empire Station," and reach the "Summit," or highest elevation of the railway above the mean level of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Here is a little native settlement called "Culebra" ("the Snake"), noted as having been the ter- minus of the road in 1854. Then, passengers arriving at this place by the cars from the Atlantic shore were com- pelled to mount upon mules, and flounder on through heavy sloughs and rapid streams, along the borders of deep ravines and over precipitous mountains, exposed to drench- ing rains in the wet season, and a broiling sun in the dry, not unfrequently attacked and plundered by banditti, with which the road was then infested, until, after a whole day's labor and peril, they arrived at Panama, only twelve miles distant. " Culebra" at that time was a thrifty place, boast- ing of two or three hotels, imported ready-made from the United States, into which often more than a thousand mofc, women, and children were promiscuously stowed for a night. There were also twenty or thirty native huts, about twelve feet square, each of which was considered of ample dimensions to house a dozen wayworn travelers, only too thankful to find a spot of dry ground upon which to spread their blankets ; but its glory has departed, and scarce a vestige remains to tell of its former estate. From Culebra the road passes through a deep clay cutting from twenty to forty feet in depth, and nearly a third of a mile in length. At this point commences the Pacific slope of the road, with a descending grade of sixty feet to the mile. The surrounding scenery now becomes bold and pictur- esque in the highest degree. Lofty conical mountains rise on every side from among the irregular ridges that form the upper boundaries of the Eio Grande. The course of 120 HAND-BOOK OF THE the road now lies across steep rocky spurs and deep ra- vines between them and along their precipitous sides. High embankments and heavy cuttings are frequent. Here, also, the vegetation is profuse and gorgeous ; tall forests cover the whole landscape as far as the eye can reach. At about a mile from the summit the road passes along the side of a huge basaltic cliff, whose great crystals, nearly a foot in di- ameter, and from eight to twelve feet in length, lie at an angle of about forty degrees. In the earlier days of the road this cliff presented a lofty, broken, and jagged appear- ance, that seemed almost to overhang and threaten the safe- ty of those passing along the track below. These great crystals of basalt, firm and compact, but easily dislodged, have been so extensively used in the ballasting of the road, etc., along this section, that the once grand and picturesque appearance of the cliff is almost entirely destroyed ; enough, however, remains to strike the beholder with admiring won- der, on contemplating this curious formation, at the still visible regularity and beauty of its crystallization, and with e wnen he reflects upon the gigantic internal forces that have resulted in its upheaval. It is one of the few known examples in the world where the natural perpendicular which basaltic formations always assume (so beautifully seen in the Fingal's Cave at Staffa, and along the " Palisades" of the Hudson) has been so rent and displaced. . But this whole region gives unmistakable evidence that great and comparatively recent volcanic forces have been instrumental in its formation. There is no continuity of the mountain ranges ; conical peaks rise up on every side ; perfect ma- rine shells and coral are found on their very summits, and the strata of the rocks exposed by the cuttings of the rail- road are all volcanic. The Eio Grande at this point is a narrow and noisy torrent, winding along through the dense forests far below the track ; the caoba, the cedro, and the malvicino trees rise up like lords of the land over the end- BASALTIC OUFF. I'll PANAMA KAILKOAD, 125 less growths of palm and the innumerable varieties of other tropical woods that interweave below them. After nearly three miles of this, the beautiful undulating valley of " Pa- raiso," or " Paradise," is reached, surrounded by high coni- cal hills, where Nature, in wild profusion, seems to have ex- pended her choicest wealth. From Paraiso the road con- tinues on over ravines, and curves around tbe base of fre- quent conical mountains, gradually descending, until the low lands and swamps of the valley of the Eio Grande are passed, when looming up in the distance is seen the high, bald head of Mount Ancon, whose southern foot is washed by the waters of the Pacific Ocean. On the left rises " Cerro de los Buccaneros" ("the Hill of the Buccaneers"), from whose summit the pirate Morgan, on his marauding march across the Isthmus in 1670, had his first view of ancient Panama, and where he encamped on the night previous to his attack and pillage of that renowned city. Crossing by bridges of iron the San Pedro Miguel and the Caimitillo (narrow tide- water tributaries of the Eio Grande), the Eio Grande Station is passed. From thence, through alternate swamp and cultivated savanna, the muddy bed of the Eio Cardenas is crossed ; when, leaving the Eio Grande to the eastward, a fine stretch of undulating country around the base of Mount Ancon is brought into view, enlivened by native huts and cultivated fields. About a mile farther on may be seen the long metallic roofs of the railroad build- ings of the Pacific terminus peeping out from a grove of cocoa-trees, and a little beyond them, and to the right, the Cathedral towers, the high-tiled roofs and dilapidated forti- fications of the city of Panama, while through the inter- vening foliage occasional glimpses of the "ever peaceful ocean" assure the traveler that the transit of the Isthmus is nearly accomplished, and a few minutes more brings him safely into the spacious passenger depot of the Eail- road Company at Panama. 126 HAND-BOOK OF THE Passing through the depot, and from thence directly on- ward to the sandy beach of the Bay of Panama, about fifty yards distant, a beautiful panorama opens upon the view. On the left are the commodious warehouses and the long, covered, iron-piled wharf of the Eailroad Company, along- side of which the small steamers and tugs lie to take on or discharge passengers and freight for the larger vessels an- chored in the bay. Beyond the wharf a white sandy beach sweeps around a quarter circle of a couple of miles, skirted by tangled masses of foliage interspersed with groups of cocoa-trees. A ridge of high and broken, but heavily wood- ed land rises up behind, sloping down to the eastward to- ward the peaceful ocean, that stretches out to the horizon before you. On the right, the city, high- walled and turret- ed, stands boldly out into the ocean, like Balboa of old, as if still claiming dominion over the limitless expanse ; no longer bristling with defiant cannon or decked with the flaunting colors of the Conquistador, but deserted, crum- bling, and grass-grown, " mellowed into harmony by time." Within the walls a mass of high-tiled roofs, with here and there a dilapidated tower or pearl-shelled spire, combine to present a scene more beautiful than is often beheld. The city of Panama is peculiarly rich in historical associations connected with the early days of the Spanish rule in this country, and is full of the decayed monuments of its ancient splendor. Panama is situated in lat. 8 56' K, and long. 79 31' 2" W., upon a rocky peninsula that stretches out from the base of the high volcanic hill Ancon, and projects a quarter of a mile into the sea. It has at present a population of about 10,000 souls. Its roadstead is one of the finest in the world. At about two and a half miles northwest of the city are situated the beautiful islands of Perico, Flamen- co, and Islnao, the joint property of the Panama Eailroad and the Pacific Mail Steam-ship Companies, and are occu- . tottMV\\\AVAY PANAMA RAILROAD. 131 pied by them as the rendezvous of the California and Cen- tral American lines of steam-ships. These islands are well wooded, and abound in fine springs of water. Flamenco, the largest of the three (about half a mile in length by a third in breadth), has on its southern side a fine beach, which, as the tides here rise and fall from twelve to twenty - one feet, gives admirable facilities for the repairs of the shipping. Excellent and capacious anchorage exists here. The* city of Panama previously to 1744 (when the trade be- tween Europe and Western America first began to be car- ried on around Cape Horn) was the principal entrepot of trade on the Pacific coast. From that period, however, with the decline in the Spanish possessions in America, it became reduced in commercial importance almost to a nonentity, and so remained until the past few years. The establish- ment of the South Coast, the California, the Central Amer- ican steam-ship lines, and that by which all the business of these lines is carried on, the Panama Eailroad, have com- bined to render it again a place of considerable importance. At Panama there is a first-rate hotel, the Aspinwall House, probably the best on the Isthmus charge three dollars per day. The site of the "City of Panama the Ancient" (which was destroyed by the buccaneer Sir Henry Morgan in 1661) is located about six miles southeast of the present city, and is easily reached by water or land. If time per- mits, the traveler should by all means visit this spot. The ruins of its ancient fortifications, towers, churches, and pub- lic buildings are worthy of the attention of all interested in the early history of Central America, and will amply repay the antiquarian or the lover of the picturesque and beauti- ful the trouble of a visit to this most interesting of all the remains of Spanish greatness in this region. In the Ap- pendices following will be found, first, all information ap- 132 HAND-BOOK OF THE pertaining to the regulations of the trains on the Panama Eailroad, the rates of passage and of the transportation of every kind of freight, and all general information in regard to the regulations of the road which will be likely to be of service to the traveler or the man of business. Also an ac- count of all its connections by sail and steam in the At- lantic and Pacific Oceans, their business regulations, and such information in regard to them and the countries and the places they connect with the road, as shall furnish a re- liable source of reference to all interested, displaying, as far as is practicable in a small compass, the resources of each country and place, and affording a means of ascertaining the expenses attendant upon either a visit to those regions, or of doing business with them in the most economical and intelligent manner. THE CATHEDRAL AT PANAMA. PANAMA RAILROAD. APPENDIX C. REGULATIONS OF THE PANAMA RAILROAD. THE regular trains are dispatched daily, Sundays excepted, from Aspin- wall to Panama and from Panama to Aspinwall, as per time-table annexed : TO PAN AN A. TO ASPINWj LLL. Passenger. Freight. Miles. STATIONS. Miles. Passenger. Freight. Leave. 8.15A.M. 8.50 9 38 Leave. 2.00 P.M. 2.35 3 20 16 Aspinwall Gatun Bujio lit Arrive. 1.00P.M. 12.25 " 11.45 " Arrive. 5.30 P.M. 4.55 4.15 10.00 10.40 11,20 Arrive. 12.15P.M. 3.45 4.25 5.05 Arrive. 6.00 " 30 37 471 Barbacoas Matachin . Summit... Panama... 25" 17* Wk 11.15A.M. 10.40 " 10.00 " Leave. 9.00 " 3.45 3.10 2.30 Leave. 1.30 " Besides these regular trains, special trains are always employed whenever the service can not be adequately performed by the regular trains. There are*ften as many as five and six in number daily for weeks together. STEAMER TRAINS. On the arrival of passenger steam-ships at ASPIN- WALL, special trains are dispatched at any hour, so soon as the passengers are landed, provided that the state of the tide at Panama is such that they can be embarked for the connecting steam-ship immediately on the arrival of the trains. This arrangement has been made solely with a view of afford- ing to the passenger the greatest degree of comfort and convenience con- sistent with dispatch. To those unacquainted with the cause, it may some- times appear that time is unnecessarily lost : the Company only consults the interest of the passenger in this respect, and no detention is allowed beyond what is absolutely necessary. On the arrival of passenger steam-ships at PANAMA, the trains are dispatched for Aspinwall immediately on the landing of the passengers, who here step from the steamer directly into the cars without detention. TARIFF OF RATES FOR PASSAGE AND FREIGHT. Price of passage through, $25. Children under 12 years, half price ; under 6 years, quarter do. Special Hates of Freight. Acids Muriatic, Sulphuric, and Nitric 5 cts. per Ib. Baggage passengers' (50 Ibs. free) 10 cts. per Ib. Carriages 20 cts. per cubic foot. Cartridges, with balls 5 cts. per Ib. Cattle, at owners' risk, ordinary trains, over eight $5 each. " " under eight $7 each. ' ' steamer trains, owners' risk, special agreement $25 each . Coal $5 per ton of 2240 Ibs. Cocoanuts $1 per hundred. Coke $7 per ton of 2240 Ibs. Copper Ore in bags fths of one cent, per Ib. Demijohns (empty) 50 cts. each. Dye-woods $7 per ton of 2240 Ibs. 138 HAND-BOOK OF THE Express freight, by steamer trains $1 80 per cubic foot. Furniture, such as tables, chairs, bureaus, bedsteads, etc... 25 cts. per cubic foot. Gold, in dust, coined, or manufactured i per cent, on value. Gunpowder, separate cars 5 cts. per Ib. Hides 15 cts. each. Horses, at owners' risk, special agreement .$40 each. Jewelry , i per cent, on value. Lumber White Pine $10 per M. " Yellow Pine $12 per M. " Oak $15 per M. " Cedar and Mahogany $15 per M. Mules, at owners' risk, special agreement $20 each. Oil, Whale and Palm, toward the Atlantic 4 cts. per gallon . Patent Fuel $5 per ton of 2240 Ibs. Pitch $1 per barrel. Platina f per cent, on value. Poultry Chickens, 75 cts. per dozen; Turkeys, $1 50 per dozen. Precious Stones f per cent, on value. Rosin $1 per barrel. Sheep, at owners' risk, by passenger trains $12. Shingles , $3 per M. Silver, in bars, coined or manufactured per cent, on value. Silver Ore i per cent, on viflue. Swine, at owners' risk $2 each. Tar $1 per barrel. Tin Ores tr of one cent per Ib. Quicksilver 50 cts. per iron flask. Classification of Freight. First class freight, comprising merchandise, in boxes and bales, not otherwise enumerated 50 cts. per cubic foot. Second class freight, as per description annexed 1 cts. per Ib. Third " " " " " let. per Ib. Fourth " " " " " iofact.perlb. Fifth " " " " " iact.perlb. Sixth " " " " iofactperlb. All articles not specially named to be assimilated. FIRST CLASS 50 CENTS PER CUBIC FOOT. Bonnets, Books, Boots. Caps, Cards (playing), Cassia lignea, Cigars, Cinnamon, Clothing. Drugs, Dry Goods, not elsewhere enumerated. Eau de Cologne, Essences, Essential Oils. Feathers, Fire- works, Flannel; Furs, not otherwise enumerated. Glass Shades and Looking-glasses, at owners' risk ; Glassware, fine, stained, and plate, at owners' risk ; Gloves. Harness ; Hats, fur or felt, and of Guayaquil or Panama straw ; Hosiery. Light goods, not elsewhere specified. Matches, Medicines, Millinery, Musical Instruments. Oil-cloth, Organs. Paintings and Engravings, Paper Hangings, Paper, writing and printing ; Peltry, not elsewhere specified ; Percussion Caps, Perfumery, Pianos, Por- celain and China-ware, fine. Saddlery, Shoes, Silks, Stationery ; Statuary, at owners' risk. Toys and Fancy Goods. PANAMA RAILROAD. 189 SECOND CLASS 1 CENTS PER POUND. Alcohol, Almonds, Anchovies, Aniseed. Balsams, Baskets, Beeswax, Brandy, Britannia-ware. Carpeting ; Chandeliers, at owners' risk ; Chocolate, Clocks, Cochineal, Con- fectionery, Cordials, Corks and Corkwood. Eggs. Fire-arms, Fruits (dried). German Silver-ware, Gin, Groceries, not elsewhere specified. Indigo. Lamps (ornamental), Liquors of all kinds. Mattresses. Nuts, not elsewhere specified. Picture-frames, Plated Goods, Platform Scales, Preserved Meats and Fruits. Rum. Sardines, Soap (fancy), Straw for manufacturing. Tea, Tobacco (manufactured), Tortoise-shell, Treenails, Trees and Plants in mats. Varnish in tins ; Veneers. Wooden-ware. THIRD CLASS 1 CENT PER POUND. Bagging, Balsam of Copaivi, Bark, Blankets, Brooms, Brushes, Burlaps. Candles, Cutlery. Domestics, unbleached, of cotton, in bales. Gravestones. Hay in compressed bales ; Hemp, manufactures of, such as Canvas, Dowlas, and Osnaburgs. Leather, dressed. Nails, copper and brass. Oil (toward Pacific), Ornaments of Stone, Clay, Marble, Alabaster. Paints, dry and in oil. Sarsaparilla, Spirits of Turpentine. Tacks, Tin-ware ; Tobacco, manufactured ; Tubing, copper and brass ; Type. Whalebone, Wines ; Wire, copper and brass ; Wool of alpaca or vicuna. FOURTH CLASS f CENT PER POUND. Agricultural Implements, Ale. Bacon in casks ; Beef, Blacking, Borax, Bottles (empty), Bread, Butter. Castings of copper, brass, or bronze ; Cheese, Cider, Copper Sheathing and Spikes, Copperas ; Cotton in compressed bales ; Cotton Waste, Crackers ; Crockery, not elsewhere specified. Deer-skins in bales. Earthen-ware in casks or crates. Felt (for sheathing), Fish, Flour. Grindstones, Glassware (coarse), Window-glass, etc. ; Goat-skins in bales. Hams in casks; Hardware; Hats, coarse country straw or palm leaf; Hemp, unmanufactured ; Herrings, Hollow-ware (iron), Hoops of wood or iron. India-rubber. Lard. Machetas, Machinery, Mats, Matting, Meal, Millstones, Molasses. Oakum, Oats, Orchilla Weed. Pickles, Pork (salt), Porter, Potatoes. Bice, Rope. Safes (iron), Sago, Salt, Screws, Seeds, Sheep-skins in bales, Shot (in bags), Shovels, Sirups, Soap (common), Soda-water, Spades, Steel in bars and bun- dles, Stoves, Sugar, Sugar-mills, -moulds, and -pans. 140 HAND-BOOK OF THE Tallow ; Tea (toward Atlantic) ; Tool-handles, Twine. Vegetables, Vices (iron), Vinegar. Window Glass, Wire (brass and copper), Wool of sheep. Yarn (of cotton). Zinc in sheets. FIFTH CLASS % CENT PEK POUND. Anchors, Anvils. Bananas, Beans. Cables (iron), Cannon, Cannon Balls and Shot (iron), Cocoa, Coffee, Copper in bars, Corn (Indian), Crowbars. Fruits of the Isthmus not otherwise enumerated. Hollow Shot, Hoop Iron. Ice, in quantity ; Iron (old), Iron Bars and Pipes, Iron Boiler-plates, Iron Cables, Iron Castings (not machinery), Iron Tubing, Iron in bars. Lead in pigs, sheet, and pipes, Lemons, Limes. Nails (iron). Old Junk (rope), Oranges. Pearl-shells in sacks ; Peas, Plantains. Sheet Iron, Spikes (iron). Zinc, ingots. SIXTH CLASS |: CENT PER POUND. Borate of Lime, Brick. Cement. Guano in bags. Iron in pigs. Lime. Marble for building purposes, including flooring tiles and paving. Nitrate of Soda in bags. Stone for building purposes, including paving-stones. * Special Conditions. Freight to be charged on the gross weight of packages, and to be paid in advance or before delivery of goods. All claims for loss or damage to be presented within five days, otherwise they will not be paid. The Company will not be responsible for articles cf extra value, beyond $100 per package, unless declared and way-billed accordingly. No package, however small, will be transported for less than one dollar. The Company will not be responsible for the breakage or loss of contents of any demijohn or jug. Storage will be charged on all goods remaining in" the Company's store- houses, after twenty-four hours, unless by special agreement. JOSEPH F. JOT, Secretary. N.B. Goods shipped for California under through bills of lading must be corded and sealed at the New York Custom-house, or they will be liable to the payment of duties in San Francisco. RATES OF COINAGE TO BE RECEIVED AND PAID OUT BY THE PANAMA RAILROAD COMPANY. Gold Coin. Spanish doubloons $16 00 Mexican doubloons $15 50 Peruvian " 15 50 Ecuadorian " 1550 Bolivian " 15 50 New Granadian doubloons, Chilian " 1550 New Granadian ditto, (old).... 15 50 Costa Rican and Central Amer- Columbian doubloons 15 50 new coinage 14 00 ican doubloons 13 60 Fractional parts in proportion. PANAMA RAILROAD. 141 Gold 20 franc pieces $3 80 Gold 10 franc pieces 1 90 English sovereigns 4 85 Ten-guilder pieces $3 80 Condors, New Granadian 850 Condors, Chilian 8 00 English half sovereigns 2 Fractional parts in proportion. United States gold and silver at par. Silver Coin. Spanish dollars, $1 00 ; half dollars, 40 cents ; quarter dollars, 20 cents. Mexican dollars, $1 00 ; half dollars, 40 cents ; quarter dollars, 20 cents. Fractional parts in proportion. New Granadian dollars of 5 franc value $0 95 French 5 franc pieces 95 Fractional parts as heretofore. Peruvian and Chilian dollars (new coinage) 90 Bolivian dollars (old coinage) 1 00 Bolivian half dollars and quarters not received. N.B. Smooth coin not received. WHARFAGE, LIGHTERAGE, AND HARBOR REGULATIONS. A pier, 450 feet in length, has been buik in the Bay of Panama, to the end of which freight cars are run, to receive cargoes from lighters or vessels lying alongside, and deliver the same on board of vessels at Aspinwall. Ves- sels of from 200 to 300 tons can lie alongside the pier with safety, grounding in the mud at low water. Iron launches of the capacity of 100 tons each have been built by the Company to load 'and discharge vessels whose draught of water prevents them from coming to the pier. These launches are towed to and from the pier by a powerful steam- tug. The charge for lighterage is one and a half dol- lars per ton. At Aspinwall vessels load and discharge at the wharves. A fire-proof stone warehouse, 300 feet long by 85 feet wide, has been built for the use of the Company. Regulations in regard to Freight. 1 . All freight intended for the morning train must be delivered at the freight- houses of the Company before 5 P.M. on the day previous. The hours for receiving and delivering freight are from 7 to 9 A.M., from 10 A.M. until 2 P.M., and from 3 until 5 P.M. 2. No article will be transported over the road unless it is legibly and prop- erly directed. Packages in bad order may be declined by the freight agent until properly repaired ; or, if received in bad order, it will be so noted on the receipt given by the freight agent. 3. Goods will not be received for transportation without a freighting or- der from the shipper unless by special agreement. Shippers will deliver with their goods a bill of items, signed by themselves or agents, forms for which can be obtained on application to the freight agents. The freighting orders will be compared with the goods by the freight agent, and if found correct, a receipt will be given by him for the same, subject to the rules of the Com- pany. 4. Freight deposited outside, or under the Company's sheds, remains at owners' risk until delivered into cars or freight-house, unless otherwise ex- pressly agreed to ; and freight agents will not receipt for goods unless so de- livered. 5. Goods for transportation over the road will be received in their turn. 142 HAND-BOOK OF THE according to priority of delivery, and will remain at owners' risk until exam- ined, compared, and receipted for. Goods for the Company's vessels will also be shipped in order of priority, heavy goods excepted, a sufficient quan- tity of which may first be put on board to make proper stowage. 6. No article will be delivered from the Company's freight-houses without a receipt or order from the consignee or owner. Draymen and porters call- ing for goods must be furnished with an order by the consignee, upon whom their receipts will be binding. 7. The Company will not be responsible for articles of extra value beyond "") per package, unless declared and way-billed accordingly. Freight will be charged on the gross weight of packages ; and no pack- age, however small, will be transported over the road for less than one dollar. 9. The Company will not be responsible for breakage or leakage of any description, the decay of any fruits or vegetables, the wastage of ice, or death of poultry or animals, from delay or detention on the road. 10. All payments for transportation will be made at the freight offices in United States currency or its equivalent, at the rates established by the Com- pany (see pages 140, 141). 11. The terms for transportation over the road are prepayment, or cash on delivery of the goods, which may be detained by the freight agent until pay- ment is made. 12. Storage will be charged on all goods remaining in the Company's store-houses for a longer period than twenty-four hours, except under special arrangements, or when they are under through bills of lading authorized by the Company. Rates of Storage. The following are the rates of storage per week : Barrels 10 cts. each. Half do 5 " " Tobacco 10 " per bale. Hats 20 " " " Boxes 10 cts. per bbl. bulk. Hides 1 ct. each. Corn 5 cts. per sack. Demijohns 20 " each. All articles not above enumerated to be assimilated and charged in pro- portion. 13. Claims for loss or damage must be made within five days thereafter, and will be settled by the superintendent on application to him through the freight agents. A bill of the cost of articles lost will be required. 14. When goods are forwarded from Panama to Aspinwall for shipment in other than the lines of vessels above named, the service of the Kailroad Company ceases with their delivery at the freight-house in Aspinwall, as in the case of local traffic. The same principles apply also to the shipment of goods to ports on the Pacific, passing over the road from Aspinwall to Panama. 15. When goods are forwarded from Pacific ports for shipment at Aspin- wall by vessels not running in connection with the road, it is necessary for shippers to make arrangements for the payment of freight, transportation, and shipping expenses. 16. Cargo arriving by the Central American steamers, unless under through bills of lading, must be received by the consignees on the wharf im- mediately after arrival ; otherwise it will be left there at owners' risk ; or, if deposited in the Company's store-houses, it will be at their risk and ex- pense. Cargo for the Central American steamers must be delivered at the freight-house for shipment, otherwise the Company will not be responsible for damage from raii> or other cause. 17. Consignees of goods at Aspinwall by the Company's line of sailing vessels will please attend and receive them when discharged, with as little de PANAMA RAILROAD. 143 lay as possible, the Company not being liable for any loss or damage after delivery from ship's tackles. 18. When the goods of residents or agents at Panama arrive at Aspinwall from abroad for transportation over the road, and are consigned to them at Aspinwall, they must be delivered to the Company at their freight-house in the same manner and form as is usual with local traffic. This also applies to goods consigned to the Railroad Company at Aspinwall not shipped under through bills of lading. RATES OF WHARFAGE AND LIGHT MONEY. Wharfage. Vessels under 50 tons .....$0 75 per day. over 50 100 150 200 250 and under 100 ......................... 150 150 ......................... 2 25 200 ......................... 2 50 250 ......................... 3 00 300 ......................... 3 25 300 350 ......................... 3 50 " 350 400 ......................... 3 75 And 25 cents per day for each additional 50 tons. Light Money. Vessels under 100 tons ................................................... $1 each. " over 100 " and under 200 ................................ 3 " " " 200 " " 300 ................................ 5 " " " 300 " ................................................... 7 " The above rates are calculated upon tonnage by American measurement, and payable in American currency or its equivalent. HARBOR REGULATIONS OF THE PORT OF ASPINWALL, N. G., ESTABLISHED BY THE PANAMA RAILROAD COMPANY. 1. All vessels entering the harbor of Aspinwall will be charged light fees, and all vessels coming to wharf will be charged wharfage, in proportion to tonnage, as per printed rates of the Panama Railroad Company annexed. 2. Vessels using the donkey engines or mules of the Company (which can be had when not otherwise employed) will be charged as follows : Use of engine for cargo, per day ......................................... $10 00 " " " coal, " ton ................ ......................... 15 " mule " " " " ........... . ................. . ....... .... 15 3. No vessel will be allowed to hang at the outer buoys, as they are to be used solely for convenience in hauling in and out and making sail. 4. Vessels entering the harbor will anchor outside of the line of buoys, where they will be visited by the harbor-master, who will assign them their berths. Regular lines of steamers or sailing vessels which have specified berths are exempt from the above rule. All vessels, after discharging, will also anchor outside the buoys. 5. No iron chains are allowed to be used in making fast to the wharves, unless by express permission from the harbor-master, and vessels will be held liable for any damage done to the wharves by unnecessary chafing, neglect, etc. 6. No coal-ashes, offal, or rubbish are to be thrown overboard by vessels at anchor in the harbor or at the wharves. 7. Masters of vessels will be governed by the directions of the harbor-mas- ter in changing berths, hauling to buoys, anchoring in any part of the har- bor, etc., and are requested to notify him when wishing to haul, and also to give him at least six hours' notice before leaving port. GEO. M. TOTTEN, Chief Engineer. 144: HAND-BOOK OF THE Through bills of lading are issued for merchandise from Europe and the Atlantic United States to Panama, San Francisco, Oregon, Washington Ter- ritory, etc., and also to the principal ports of South and Central America. Parties in Europe desiring to ship goods to Panama or ports on the Pa- cific, under through bills of lading, will please apply to John Hamilton, at No. 6 Castle Street, Liverpool ; in the United States to Mr. Joseph F. Jcy, office of the Panama Kailroad, 88 Wall Street, New York. All freight to be prepaid. No bill of lading signed for less than five dollars. A Commercial and Shipping Agency has been established by the Com- pany at Panama, under the management of Mr. Wm. Nelson, who will re- ceive and forward merchandise or produce consigned to the Company for transportation over the road and shipment at Aspinwall or Panama, in ac- cordance with shippers' instructions, for which services no commissions will be charged, and only such expenses as may actually be paid, thus obviating the necessity of appointing agents on the Isthmus. Merchandise and produce consigned to the Company for transportation and shipment should be addressed to the superintendent of the road, or to the commercial agent of the Company at Panama, Mr. William Nelson. Goods so consigned will be promptly dispatched. The average freight from New York to Liverpool by sailing vessels is twen- ty-five shillings sterling per ton ; the average passage about twenty days. By screw steamers the freight is higher, but the passage only fifteen days. Besides the steamers of the Koyal Mail Steam Packet Company, which make regular semi-monthly trips between Southampton and Aspinwall, a screw steam-ship line has commenced running between the latter port and Liverpool. Lines of sailing vessels have also been established to run from London, Liverpool and Bordeaux to Aspinwall. These several lines furnish frequent and reliable opportunities to the merchants of the Southwest coast and Central America to obtain their supplies of European manufactured and other goods. Goods sent by the Company's line of sailing vessels, and consigned to the secretary in New York for reshipment to Europe or elsewhere, will be for- warded free of commissions or other charges than those actually paid. Farther information in regard to the number and character of the vessels of the various lines connecting with the Panama Railroad, agencies, ports of entry, prices of passage and freight, dates of sailing, etc., etc., will be found in the following Appendix. PANAMA RAILROAD. 145 APPENDIX D. STEAM-SHIP LINES CONNECTING WITH THE PANAMA RAILROAD. 1st. The Atlantic and Pacific Steam-ship Company, running between New York and Aspinwall (below). 2d. The Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company, running between Panama and San Francisco (page 146). 3d. The Oregon and California Steam-ship Company, plying between California, Oregon, and Washington Territory (page 148). 4th. The Panama Railroad Company's Central American Line, running between Panama, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Salvador and Guatemala (p. 149). 5th. The British Pacific Steam Navigation Company, running between Panama and the ports of New Granada, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, and Chili (page 152). 6th. The Royal Mail Steam Packet Company, running between the West Indies, the western coast of South and Central America, and Aspinwall (page 158). 7th. Holt's Screw Steam-ship Freight Line, running between Liverpool and Aspinwall (page 174). LINES OF SAILING VESSELS. 1st. The Bremen and Aspinwall Line, between Bremen and Aspinwall. 2d. The Bordeaux and Aspinwall Line, between Bordeaux and Aspin- wall. 3d. The Panama Railroad Company's Line between Liverpool and Aspin- wall. 4th. The Panama Railroad Company's Line between New York and As- pinwall. 1st. THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC STEAM-SHIP COMPANY, RUNNING BETWEEN- NEW YORK AND ASPINWALL DIRECT, CONNECTING AT PANAMA, BY THE PANAMA RAILROAD, WITH THE PACIFIC MAIL STEAM -SHIP COMPANY'S STEAMERS FOR CALIFORNIA. The steamers of this line are the North Star, 1867 tons, the Northern Light, 1747 tons, and the Ariel, 1600 tons, one of which is dispatched on the 1st, llth, and 21st day of every month, from the foot of Warren Street, North River, New York, at 12 o'clock, noon, precisely. When these dates fall on Sunday, the day of departure is on the Monday following. Rates of Passage. To Aspinwall. In deck state-room $70 00 " first cabin 60 00 " second cabin 50 00 " steerage 40 00 Freight. To Aspinwall. On merchandise, 50 cents per cubic foot (under 45 Ibs.); heavy goods, 1 cent per pound ; specie, 1 per cent, on value. No primage charged. HAND-BOOK OF THE THROUGH PASSAGE AND FREIGHT. By an arrangement with the Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company and the Panama Railroad Company, through passage tickets to San Francisco, Cal- ifornia, are furnished at the office of this Company; also through bills of lading for freight, at the following rates : Through Passage to San Francisco, California. First cabin (including board) .............................. $200 00 Second " " " .............................. 150 00 Steerage " " .............................. 100 00 Children under 6 years, quarter price ; over 6 and under 12, half price. Baggage. Fifty pounds of baggage is allowed to every adult passenger without charge. On all over this quantity ten cents per pound is required. Through Freight. To Panama $1 per cubic foot (under 45 Ibs. to the foot) ; heavy goods, If cents per pound (over 45 Ibs. to the foot) ; specie, 1 per cent, on value. To San Francisco $1 75 per cubic foot (under 45 Ibs.); heavy goods, 4 cents per pound; butter, sugar, and coffee, etc., 3? cents per pound; specie, 1 per cent, on value. No primage charged. No bill of lading signed for Aspinwall freight for less than $3, for Panama freight for less than $4, nor for San Francisco freight for less than $15. No freight received on the day of sailing. Bills of lading of the only form used are furnished to shippers on applica- tion at the office of the Company, No. 177 West Street, corner of Warren, New York City. D. B. ALLEN, Agent. The usual passage of these steamers between New York and Aspinwall is from eight to nine days. 2d. THE PACIFIC MAIL STEAM-SHIP COMPANY, RUNNING BETWEEN PANAMA AND SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA, TOUCHING AT MANZANILLA AND ACA- PULCO, MEXICO. The steamers of this Company are, the Golden Age, 2280 tons ; the Gold- en Gate, 2067 tons; the Sonora, 1616 tons; the St. Louis, 1621 tons; the Uncle Sam, 1433 tons ; the Washington, 1640 tons ; the Orizaba, 1450 tons ; the Fremont, 559 tons; the California, 1085 tons; the Toboga (tug), 189 tons. A magnificent steamer of 3000 tons burden is now on the stocks, and nearly completed, for the Panama and San Francisco service, and a second of similar character is projected. The Golden Age, the Golden Gate, the St. Louis, and the Sonora per- form the regular service between Panama and San Francisco. These steam- ers are dispatched alternately for San Francisco three times a month, on the arrival of the passengers from the Atlantic and Pacific Steam-ship Com- pany's steamer at Panama. The dates usually fall on the 10th, 20th, and 30th of each month. The sailing dates from San Francisco fall upon the 1st, llth, and 21st of each month. Through Rates from San Francisco to New York, via Panama Railroad and Atlantic and Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company (including Isthmus). Passage deck state-rooms, $225 ; first cabin, $200 ; second cabin, $150 ; steerage, $100. Children between 6 and 12 years, half price ; under 6 years, quarter price. Through freight "fast," (by connecting steamers), $3 50 per foot; 'slow" (stopping over one steamer on the Isthmus), $1 75 per foot. The rates for passage and freight from Panama to San Francisco, and the ports intermediate, are as follows, viz. : PANAMA KAILKOAD. 147 Passage from Panama to San Francisco first cabin, $175 ; second cabin, $125; steerage, $75. Passage from Panama to Acapulco, one half the above rates, and from Panama to Manzanilla, two thirds of the above rates. The rates of freight from Panama to San Francisco : Havana cigars, En- glish merchandise, and other freight of the same class, $50 per ton ; freight originating in Panama also $50 per ton. Freight from Panama to Acapulco : merchandise, $30 per ton ; groceries, wines, and liquors, $25 per ton ; tobacco and cocoa, 4 cents per Ib. Central American freight, with through bills of lading, from the Panama Railroad Company's steamers : Coffee, 20 tons or under 2 cents per Ib. and 5 per cent, primage. " ' " " over H " " " 5 " " Sugar l| " " " 5 " " Consignees pay light-house fees, port charges, and primage. Treasure from San Francisco to New York $30,000 or over, H per cent. ; under $30,000, 2 per cent. From San Francisco and Manzanilla to Panama 1 J- per cent. ; from Aca- pulco to Panama, !$ per cent. There is always at Panama an extra steamer in readiness for immediate use should occasion require. The ships of this company at this end of their route lie at their anchorage-ground between the Bay Islands, 2 miles from the railroad terminus, where the depot of the Company is located. Passen- gers are transported between ship and shore by the Company's steamer To- boga, which is of sufficiently light draught to lay alongside the railroad wharf at the terminus. At Benicia, 30 miles from San Francisco, in the Straits of Cardenas, is located the depot for the Company's steamers. At that place the Company have established commodious wharves, and a large foundry and machine- shop, where repairs are readily and efficiently executed for machinery of the largest class. The general office of the Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company is at New York, No. 88 Wall Street. Officers of the Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company. President, Allan M'Lane. Directors: William H. Aspinwall, Howard Potter, Samuel W. Comstock, Francis Skiddy, Frederick H. Wolcott, J. T. Soutter, Charles A. Davis, D. B. Allen. Agents. At Panama, David M. Corwin. " Acapulco, D. B. Van Brunt. " San Francisco, Forbes and Babcock. In Oregon, J. M. Bruck. The origin of the Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company dates back as far as the year 1847, when the Congress of the United States empowered the Sec- retary of the Navy to contract with Mr. Arnold Harris for the transportation of mails in steam-ships from Panama to Oregon, once a month each way, for a term often years, at an annual compensation of $199,000, the contract subject to the action of Congress at its next session of 1847-8. The treaty with Great Britain, which had previously adjusted the vexed question of the boundary-line of Oregon, had turned public attention to her rich valleys, and thousands of settlers were seeking a permanent home in Oregon by the wild paths to the Pacific across the Plains. The object of Congress in making an appropriation for steamer service on the Pacific was not only to facilitate the intercourse between the Atlantic States and the United States possessions 148 HAND-BOOK OF THE on the Pacific, substituting a mode of travel which would bring settlers with- in thirty days' journey of the Atlantic States, thereby dispensing with the long and perilous journey overland, or the more tedious voyage around Cape Horn, but to have steamers on the Pacific easily convertible into war-steam- ers for the protection of actual settlers in that isolated land should occasion call for such service. On the 20th of November, 1847, Mr. William H. Aspinwall became the assignee of Mr. Harris's contract, and about twenty-five sagacious and enter- prising men of New York joined him in the effort to carry out the under- taking it involved. Contracts for the building of suitable vessels were made, and their construction pushed vigorously onward. On the 2d of February, 1848, the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was sign- ed ; in the following May ratifications were exchanged, and in July it was proclaimed, and California became the property of the United States, thus greatly increasing the immediate necessity of improved communication with the Pacific coast. The pioneer steam-ship, the California, was launched on the 19th of May, 1848, the Panama soon after, and the Oregon on the 5th of August of the same year. On the 3d of August, 1848, the United States Congress granted to the Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company $199,000, being an advance of one year's pay, provided their steamers should touch at certain ports in California on their voyages. On the 30th of September, 1848, the Company was formally organized, $400,000 of stock having been paid in according to the terms of their charter. On the 5th of October, 1848, the California went to sea. Her consorts followed at short intervals. The discovery of the gold mines of California took place while the steamers were on their route to the Pacific ; and the California, touching at the port of Panama, found there a multitude of anx- ious gold-seekers from the United States, who had crossed the Isthmus, via Chagres, to meet her for the voyage from thence to California. Each suc- ceeding steamer found similar crowds awaiting its arrival, and the organiza- tion of the route, which at once took place, has continued in regular opera- tion up to the present day, with such additions to their number and increased tonnage as the rapidly growing traffic required. The Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company has always been characterized by the great and judicious liberality of its management. No expense has been spared since the first formation of the Company to carry on their business with the greatest possible safety and dispatch, both for passengers and freight ; and the comforts and general requirements of passengers have been so efficiently secured by able and courteous officers that it may be truthfully referred to as one of the most universally popular steam-ship lines in the world. 3d. THE OREGON AND CALIFORNIA STEAM-SHIP COMPANY, RUNNING BETWEEN SAN FRANCISCO AND THE PORTS OF OREGON, WASHINGTON TERRITORY, AND VANCOUVER'S ISLAND, TRI -MONTHLY, WITH A SOUTHERN BRANCH, MONTHLY SERVICE, BETWEEN SAN FRANCISCO AND THE MEXICAN PACIFIC COAST. This line was established early in the present year (1861) by Messrs. Hol- liday & Flint, of San Francisco, who purchased the steam-ships Panama, of 1087 tons, Cortez, 1117, Republic, 850, Columbia, 777, and Sierra Nevada, 1247 tons, from the Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company, and took charge of the San Francisco, Oregon, Washington Territory, and Vancouver route, heretofore managed by the Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company, besides estab- lishing a new branch of service between San Francisco and the ports of Cape PANAMA RAILROAD. 149 St. Lucas, Guaymas, San Bias, Mazatlan, Acapulco, and other Mexican ports. The service between San Francisco, Oregon, Washington Territory, and Vancouver is performed thrice monthly by the steamers Sierra Nevada, Cor- tez, and Columbia, and connects with the steamers of the Pacific Mail Steam- ship Company as heretofore. Ports of entry. Price of passage from San Francisco. Freight, per ton. Cabin. Steerage. Upward. Down. In Oregon, HumboldtBay (town of Eureka) " Crescent City $30 30 40 50 50 50 50 50 $15 15 15 25 25 25 25 25 $15 10 10 15 m 15 15 15 $15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 " Port Orford " Umpqua and Gardiner City In Vancouver Victoria In Washington Territory, Port Townsend.. " " " Steilacoom " " " Olympia The Mexican branch of this Company's service is not yet fully reported. The first steamer left San Francisco May 1st, 1861. 4th. THE PANAMA RAILROAD COMPANY'S CENTRAL AMERICAN LINE OF STEAM- SHIPS, RUNNING SEMI-MONTHLY BETWEEN THE PORTS OF GUATEMALA, SAL- VADOR, COSTA RICA, NICARAGUA, AND PANAMA. The steam propellers Guatemala, 1021 tons, J. M. Dow, commander, and Columbus, 460 tons, J. W. Ludwig, commander, arrive at and depart from Central American ports on or about the following days of each month, form- ing a semi-monthly line :* Departure. Arrival. From Guatemala. Columbus. At Guatemala. Columbus. Panama 15th 18th 20th 21st 22d 22d 25th 26th 27th 30th 1st 3d 30th 3d 5th 6th 7th 7th 10th llth 12th 15th 16th 18th Punta Arenas.... Realejo 17th 19th 20th 22d 22d 23d 25th 27th 28th 30th 2d 5th 2d 4th 5th 7th 7th 8th 10th llth 13th 15th 17th 20th Punta Arenas.... Realejo La Union La Union La Libertad Acaiutla La Libertad Acaiutla .. San Jose Acaiutla Acaiutla .... La Libertad La Union . La Libertad La Union Realejo Realejo Punta Arenas.... Punta Arenas Prices of Pat From Panama to Punta Arenas $40 00 Realejo 65 00 La Union 70 00 La Libertad 75 00 Acajutla 80 00 San Jose de Guatemala 85 00 Payable in American gold. * The Company have contracted for the building of another vessel (first-class iron steam- er), 214 feet in length, 32 feet beam, 21 feet hold, to be completed and ready for service at Panama early in the spring of 1862 ; burden about 1200 tons. 150 HAND-BOOK OF THE Prices of Freight (including Lighterage in Panama). From Panama to Punta Arenas, per ton measurement.. . $14 00 Realejo, * ... 16 00 La Union, < ... 16 00 La Libertad, ' ... 18 00 Acajutla, ' ... 18 00 San Jose, ' ... 18 00 And five per cent, primage. Prices of Return Freight (including Lighterage at Panama'). From San Jose, Acajutla, and La Libertad, to Panama : For cochineal and indigo, li cents per Ib. on the net weight ; hides, 32 cents each ; other mer- chandise in cases, bales, etc., 45 cents per cubic foot ; and 5 per cent, prim- age. From La Union and Realejo to Panama: Cochineal and indigo, 1 cents per Ib. net weight ; hides, 30 cents each ; merchandise in cases, bales, etc., 40 cents per cubic foot ; and 5 per cent, primage. From Punta Arenas to Panama: Coffee, cent, gross weight; hides, 24 cents each ; merchandise in cases,- bales, etc., 35 cents per cubic foot. Produce and other merchandise for Panama will be landed at the railroad wharf, where it must be received by the consignees immediately ; in default of which, it will be taken to the depot at the expense and risk of the owner. All freight and passage payable in American gold or its equivalent. Prices of Freight from the Ports of Central America to Aspinwall (Colon), in- cluding the Expense of Landing and Transportation by the Railroad. From San Jose', Acajutla, and La Libertad : Indigo and cochineal, 2 cents per Ib. net weight ; hides, 47 cents each ; merchandise in cases, etc., 45 cents per cubic foot, and the regular transportation charges established by the tariff of the railroad. From La Union and Realejo : Indigo and cochineal, 2f cents per Ib. net weight ; hides, 45 cents each ; merchandise in cases, etc., 40 cents per cubic foot, and the transportation charges established by the tariff of the railroad. From Punta Arenas: Coffee, H cents per Ib. gross weight; hides, 39 cents each ; merchandise in cases, etc., 35 cents per cubic foot, and the trans- portation charges established by the tariff of the railroad. Through Rates of Freight from Central America to the South American Ports. To Guayaquil, cochineal, per ceroon $3 75 11 Callao, " " 4 75 " Valparaiso, " " 5 75 coffee, per pound : H cts. To Guayaquil, " Callao, " Valparaiso, To Guayaquil, " Callao " Valparaiso, crude sugar !$ cts. PANAMA RAILROAD. 151 Rates of Through Freight from New York, by the Company's sailing Vessels to Aspinwall, including Lighterage in Panama. fl Dry-goods, hats, boots, shoes, drugs, and other goods, included in railroad tariff as first class, per ton of 40 feet Unbleached domestics, per ton of 40 feet Furniture, carriages, agricultural implements, wood- en-ware, clocks, etc., per ton of 40 feet Iron in bars, sheets, and bundles, iron castings, nails, spikes, copper, zinc, and lead, per ton of 2000 Ibs. Steel in bars and bundles, coarse machinery, com- mon hardware, earthen-ware, sugar-mills, -moulds, and -pans, shot, etc., per ton of 2000 Ibs Butter, cheese, lard, fish, ham, soap, and candles, per ton of 2000 Ibs Refined sugar, per ton of 40 feet Flour and rice, per barrel " per half barrel Wine in boxes and baskets, per ton of 40 feet ; ' in casks, and other liquors, per ton of 40 feet Tobacco, manufactured, per ton of 40 feet.. " unmanufactured, per ton of 40 feet Ship-bread, crackers, etc., per ton of 40 feet $40 00 $42 00 $44 32 34 00 34 00 32 00 32 00 36 00 37 00 32 00 4 50 2 35 34 00 37 00 42 00 3400 30 00 00 36 00 34 00 34 00 38 00 39 00 34 00 4 80 2 50 36 00 39 00 44 00 36 00 32 00 Goods can be shipped three times per month, by steamers of the Atlantic and Pacific Steam-ship Company, to Aspinwall, at an addition of 35 cents per foot, or $14 per ton, to the above rates. Rates of Return Freights, by the Company' s sailing Vessels from Aspinwall to New York, including Lighterage in Panama. To Panama. Aspin- wall. New York. Lumber, from La Union, per M $20 00 tl " Punta Arenas per M 18 00 Cochineal and indigo, from either port, per Ib. net. Hides, from San Jose, Acajutla, and La Libertad, each li 32 $0 02| 47 $0 03* 62 Hides, from La Union and Realejo, each 30 45 60 " " Punta Arenas . . .. . 24 39 54 Coffee from Punta Arenas, per Ib. gross - H H Deer and goat skins, from Punta Arenas, per Ib... " " other ports, " ... Cigars, balsam, and first class goods, per railroad tariff, per foot 1 1* 50 11 2i 1 00 21 3 1 16 No primage on through rates. Through bills of lading are given from Central American ports to Liver- pool (by propellers Saladin and Plantagenet from Aspinwall) at 4 cents per Ib. on net weight of indigo and cochineal, and 2 cents per Ib. on gross weight of coffee ; and to London (by the Royal Mail Steam Packet Compa- 152 HAND-BOOK OF THE ny's steamers) at 2| pence sterling per Ib. on gross weight of indigo and cochineal. Produce and other merchandise for Panama will be landed at the railroad wharf, where it must be received by the consignees immediately ; in default of which, it will be taken to the depot at the expense and risk of the owner. All freight and passage payable in American gold or its equivalent. For farther information, apply to Jos. F. JOT, Secretary, 88 Wall St., New York. WM. NELSON, Commercial Agent, Panama. CRISANTO MEDINA, Punta Arenas. COURTADE T CLAVERA, La Union. H. J. FOOTE and J. MATHI, Sonsonate. J. SARAGIA, San Jose de Guatemala. Or to the commanders on board. For a description of the countries touched at by the Central American Line, also an account of the ports, port regulations and charges, tariffs, com- merce, etc., etc., see page 181, et seq. 5th. THE PACIFIC STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY, PLYING BETWEEN PANAMA, CALLAO, VALPARAISO, AND INTERMEDIATE PORTS. The steam-ships destined for the service are the following: Bogota, 1600 tons ; Lima, 1600 tons ; Callao, 1200 tons ; Valparaiso, 1200 tons ; Guaya- quil, 1000 tons ; San Carlos, 1000 tons ; Bolivia, 800 tons ; Anne, 500 tons ; Cloda, 900 tons ; New Granada, 750 tons ; Inca, 300 tons ; Morro, 150 tons. Voyage to the South. Days of each Month. Departure from Panama 9th and 24th. Arrival at Guayaquil 13th and 28th. Departure from Guayaquil 14th, 29th, and 2d. Arrival at Payta 15th, 30th, and 3d. " Lambayeque 17th and 4th. Departure from jfcambayeque 18th and 5th. Arrival at Pacasmayo 18th and 5th. " Huanchaco 19th and 6th. " Santa 20th. " Samanco 7th. " Casma 20th and 7th. " Supe 21st and 8th. " Huacho 21stand8th. " Callao 18th, 22d, 2d or 3d, and 9th. Departure from Callao 20th, 26th, 5th, and llth. Arrival at Cerro Azul 27th and 12th. " Islas de Chincha 21st, 27th, 6th, and 12th. " Pisco 21st, 27th, 6th, and 12th. " Chala 29th and 14th. " Islay 23d, 30th, 8th, and 15th. " Arica 24th, 3 1st or 1st, 9th, and 16th. " Pisagua 1st or 2d, and 17th. " Mejillones 1st or 2d, and 17th. " Iquique 1st or 2d, and 17th. " Tocopillo 2d or 3d, and 18th. " Cobija 25th, 2d or 3d, 10th and 18th. " Caldera 27th, 4th or 5th, 12th, and 20th. Departure from Caldera 27th, 4th or 5th, 12th, and 20th. Arrival at Carrizal bajo 5th or 6th, and 21st. PANAMA RAILROAD. 153 Days of each Month. Arrival at Huasco 5th or 6th, and 21st. " Coquimbo 28th, 6th or 7th, 13th, and 22d. " Tongoy 6th or 7th, and 22d. " Valparaiso 29th, 7th or 8th, 14th, and 23d. Voyage to the North. Days of each Month. Departure from Valparaiso 3d, 1 1th, 18th, and 27th. Arrival at Tongoy 12th and 28th. " Coquimbo 4th, 12th, 19th, and 28th. " Huasco 13th and 29th. " Carrizalbajo 13th and 29th. " Caldera 5th, 14th, 20th, and 30th. " Cobija 7th, 16th, 22d, 1st or 2d. " Tocopillo 16th, and 1st or 2d. " Iquique 17th, and 2d or 3d. " Mejillones 17th, and 2d or 3d. " .*.... Pisagua 17th, and 2d or 3d. " Arica 8th, 18th, 23d, and 3d or 4th. " Islay 9th, 19th, 24th, and 4th or 5th. " Chala 20th, and 5th or 6th. " Pisco llth, 21st, 26th, and6thor7th. " Islas de Chincha llth, 2 1st, 26th, and 6th or 7th. " Cerro Azul 21st, and 6th or 7th. " Callao 12th, 22d, 27th, and 7th or 8th. Departure from Callao 14th, 24th, 29th, and 13th. Arrival at. Huacho 25th and 14th. Supe 25th and 14th. Casma 26th and 15th. Samanco 26th. Santa .. 15th. Huanchaco 27th and 16th. Pacasmayo 27th and 16th. Lambayeque 28th and 17th. Payta 17th, 19th, and 1st or 2d. Guayaquil 30th. Panama 22d, and 6th or 7th. Rates of Passage. First Second Saloon. Saloon. Panama to Guayaquil . . . $105 $100 " Payta 115 110 " Lambayeque 135 130 Huanchaco.. 135 130 " Casma 140 135 " Huacho 145 140 " Callao 160 150 " Pisco 175 165 First Second Saloon. Saloon. Panama to Islay $220 $210 Arica 230 Iquique 245 Cobija 255 Caldera 265 Huasco 270 Coquimbo... 275 220 230 240 250 255 260 Valparaiso.. 290 270 Passage for any of the above ports can be secured at the office of the Panama Railroad Company, 88 Wall Street, New York. The Pacific Steam Navigation Company will issue through bills of lading for produce from the above-mentioned ports To New York, to be conveyed from Aspinwall by sailing vessels of the Panama Railroad Company ; to Liverpool, to be conveyed from Aspinwall by propellers Saladin and Plan- G2 154 HAND-BOOK OF THE tagenet ; to Southampton, to be conveyed from Aspinwall by steamers of Koyal Mail Steam Packet Company. An arrangement has also been made by which produce can be shipped under through bills of lading from ports in Central America touched at by steamers Guatemala and Columbus to the above ports on the west coast. Rates of Freight in Dollars from Panama to Valparaiso and intermediate Ports. Buenaventura. Guayaquil. ! Lambayeque. 3 a d 3 Huacho. Callao. | |> ^ , 1 '3 3 ! 1 2 Huasco. Coquimbo. > Panama per ton. 20 25 20 25 20 12 25 25 15 15 25 25 15 15 15 30 25 15 15 15 15 30 25 15 15 15 15 15 30 25 15 15 15 15 15 12 30 30 20 20 20 20 20 15 15 35 30 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 35 35 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 15 40 35 25 25 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 15 40 35 25 25 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 15 20 40 40 25 25 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 45 40 25 25 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 12 45 40 25 25 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 12 12 45 40 25 25 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 12 12 12 Buenaventura.... Pavta . Lambayeque Huanchaco . Casma Huacho Callao > Pisco Islay Iquique ' Cobija ' Caldera ; Huasco ' , Coauimbo.... ' Rates of Freight in Dollars from Valparaiso to Panama and intermediate Ports. Coquimbo. Huasco. Caldera. .* aJ 3 I < * S 1 s 03 1 g 3 Lambayeque. ! Guayaquil. 1 1 r. K Valparaiso per ton. Coquirobo " 12 12 12 12 12 12 20 15 15 15 20 15 15 15 15 20 15 15 15 15 15 20 15 15 15 15 15 15 20 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 20 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 12 25 18 18 18 18 15 15 15 15 12 25 18 18 18 18 18 15 15 15 12 12 25 18 18 18 18 18 15 15 15 12 12 12 25 18 18 18 18 18 15 15 15 12 12 12 12 25 18 18 18 18 18 15 15 15 12 12 12 12 12 25 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 15 12 12 12 12 l^ 30 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 20 18 18 18 18 15 15 30 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 20 18 18 18 18 18 15 15 Huasco . Caldera Cobija Iquique Arica Islay Pisco Callao Huacho Casma Huanchaco Lambayeque Payta Guayaquil Buenaventura... PANAMA RAILROAD. 155 Through Rates of Freight from New York to Valparaiso and intermediate Ports. The Panama Railroad Company are now prepared to issue through bill^ of lading to all the ports touched at by the steamers of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, at the following rates : "S 3"* General merchandise, and all goods embraced in first class of Panama Railroad tariff, per ton of 40 cubic feet, or 2240 Ibs. gross weight, at the option of the Company iBeef and pork, per barrel ; " " per half barrel j Flour, per barrel " per half barrel , Biscuit, per 100 Ibs Butter, lard, hams, bacon, cheese, salt fish, tallow, and rice, per ton of 2000 Ibs Refined sugar, per ton of 2000 Ibs Wines and other liquors, in boxes and barrels, per ton of 40 cubic feet , Manufactured tobacco, per ton of 40 cubic feet Cigars, per ton of 40 cubic feet Unbleached domestics, per ton of 40 cubic feet Soap, per ton of 2000 Ibs Candles, per ton of 40 cubic feet Carriages and furniture, per ton of 40 cubic feet Agricultural implements, per ton of 40 cubic feet Pitch, tar, and rosin, per barrel Earthen-ware and glass-ware (coarse), in crates and boxes, per ton of 40 cubic feet Turpentine and oil in cases, per ton of 40 cubic feet Turpentine and oil in tins only, per ton of 40 cubic feet $40 00 $50 00 6 2 4 2 2 Ill* 7 00 3 75 5 00 2 75 3 50 40 00 45 00 40 00 40 00 45 00 32 00 40 00 40 00 40 00 35 00 4 00 35 00 40 00 45 00 All weights to be the gross weight. Articles not enumerated to be charged at rates assimilating to the above. From New York to Aspinwall shipments are made by the sailing vessels of the Panama Railroad Company, leaving at intervals of from eight to ten All freight to be prepaid. No bill of lading signed for less than five dollars. Farther particulars may be learned on application to the secretary at the office of the Panama Railroad Company, No. 88 Wall Street, New York. Weekly Line between Callao, Lambayeque, and Guayaquil. Departure from Callao 6th, 13th, 19th, and 24th of each month. Arrival at Huacho 7th, 14th, 20th, and 25th Supe 7th, 14th, 20th, and 25th ' * Casma 8th, 15th, 2 1st, and 26th ** Samanco 26th Santa 15th 156 HAND-BOOK OF THE Arrival at Huanchaco 9th, 16th, 22d, and 27th of each month. " Malabrigo 9th and 22d " Pacasmayo 16th, and 27th " Lambayeque.... 10th, 17th, 23d, and 28th " Payta 29th " Guayaquil 30th Departure from Guayaquil 2d or 3d Arrival at Payta 3d or 4th " Lambayeque 4th or 5th Departure fr. Lambayeque 10th, 17th, 23d, and 4th or 5th Arrival at Pacasmayo 18th and 5th or 6th " Malabrigo 18th and 5th or 6th " Huanchaco llth, 19th, 24th, and 6th or 7th " Santa 20th " Samanco 7th or 8th " Casma 12th, 20th, 25th, and 7th or 8th Departure from Casma .... 12th, 20th, 25th, and 7th or 8th Arrival at Supe 13th, 21st, 26th, and 8th or 9th " Huacho 13th, 21st, 26th, and 8th or 9th " Callao 14th, 22d, 27th, and 9th or 10th Rates of freight : From Callao to Guayaquil and the intermediate ports, $8 per ton ; from Guayaquil to Callao and the intermediate ports, $10 per ton ; from Guayaquil, and the intermediate ports as far south as Callao, to Valparaiso, $15 per ton. Semi-monthly Line between Valparaiso, Talcahuano, and Puerto Montt, Departure from Valparaiso.. 10th and 30th of each month. Arrival at Constitucion 1 1th " Tome 12th and 31st or 1st " " Talcahuano 12th and 31st or 1st " Coronel 1st or 2d " Lota 13th " Valdivia 14th " Ancud 15th " Calbuco 16th " Puerto Montt 16th Departure from Puerto Montt 18th Arrival at Calbuco 18th " Ancud 18th " Valdivia 20th " Lota 21st " Coronel 1st or 2d " Talcahuano 22d and 2d or 3d Departure from Talcahuano. 22d and 3d or 4th Arrival at Tome 22d and 3d or 4th ' " Constitucion 23d * ' Valparaiso 24th and 4th or 5th Monthly Line between Panama and Guayaquil Steam-ship Anne. Departure from Panama 12th of each month. Arrival at Buenaventura 14th " Departure from Buenaventura 15th Arrival at Tumaco 16th " Esmeraldas 17th " Manta 18th " Guayaquil 20th " PANAMA KAILROAD. 157 Departure from Guayaquil , 24th of each month . Arrival at Manta 26th " Esmeraldas 28th " Tumaco 29th " Buenaventura 30th Departure from Buenaventura 3 1st Arrival at Panama... .'. 2d or 3d Prices of Passage by the Anne. Buenaven- tura. Tumaco. Esmeral- das. Manta. Guaya- quil. From Panama to $50 00 $60 00 $70 00 $80 00 $85 00 30 00 40 00 50 00 60 00 ** Tumaco to 20 00 30 00 40 00 20 00 30 00 " Manta to...* 25 00 Manta. Esmeral- das. Tumaco. Buenaven- tura. Panama. From Guayaquil to $25 00 $30 00 $40 00 $50 00 $85 00 " Manta to 20 00 30 00 45 00 80 00 " Esmeraldas to 20 00 35 00 70 00 " Tumaco to 30 00 60 00 " Buenaventura to.... 50 00 Rates of Freight. From Guayaquil and intermediate ports to Panama $10 00 per ton. " Panama " Guayaquil.. 12 00 " The Pacific Steam Navigation Company was organized in April, 1839, but the charter of incorporation was not obtained until February, 1840. In November, 1839, the directors, under assurance that the charter would be granted, contracted for two steam vessels, which were completed and dis- patched from England for service on the Pacific in July, 1840, and com- menced their voyages on the coasts of the Pacific in November of the same year, since which time the line has been in regular and successful operation. Its business has increased to such an extent that a fleet of eleven large steam-ships, with a semi-monthly service, are now employed on the through route between Panama and Valparaiso, besides a monthly steam-ship (the Anne) plying between Panama and Guayaquil, a weekly line of four steam- ships plying between Callao and Guayaquil, and a semi-monthly line between Valparaiso and Puerto Montt, touching at the intermediate ports for the col- lection of freight, which, from the increase of the through business, caused too much delay for the ships of the through line. The machine and repair shops, and other facilities for keeping the vessels of the Company in order, are very extensive and well appointed. They are situated on the island of Toboga, in the Bay of Panama. The head-quarters of the Company are at Liverpool WILLIAM JUST, General Manager. Callao GEORGE PETRIE, Resident Manager on the Pacific. Panama CHABLES H. BIDWELL, Agent. 158 HAND-BOOK OF THE 6th. THE ROYAL MAIL STEAM PACKET COMPANY, PLYING BETWEEN THE WEST INDIES, MEXICO, CENTRAL AMERICA, AND PANAMA. Offices 55 Moorgate Street, London, R. T. Keep, Secretary; Canute Road, Southampton, Captain W. Vincent, Superintendent. Foreign Agencies on the Continent of Europe, and at the termini of Routes in the West Indies. Paris Messrs. Pritchard and Monneron, 4 Rue Rossini. Havre Messrs. Davidson and Co. Hamburg Messrs. Hundeiker and Abegg. St. Thomas J. B. Cameron, Esq., Superintendent. Aspinwall W. Ritchie, Esq., Resident Traffic Manager. Panama C. A. Henderson, Esq., H.B.M.'s Consul. Havana J. T. Crawford, Esq., C.B., H.B.M.'s Consul General. Vera Cruz C. Markoe, Esq. Tampico Messrs. Jolly and Co. Jamaica Captain Cooper, R.N., Superintendent. Trinidad Messrs. H. Scott and Son. Barbadoes Messrs. M. Cavan and Co. Demerara Messrs. Rose, Duff, and Co. Belize Captain A. W. Cox. List of Ships. No. Station. Names. Registered Tonnage. Horse Power. Names of Captains. 1. 2. On West India service. Shannon ... Seine 3472 3440 800 800 G. Abbott. R Revett 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. Atrato La Plata.... Tasmanian. Tamar Thames Trent Solent Teviot Clyde.... 3126 2404 2253 1707 1889 1856 1689 1744 1371 800 1000 550 400 430 430 400 450 430 F. Woolley. C. G. Weller. P.M.Woolcott. A. Hole. J. T. Moir. E. M. Leeds. J. M. Gillies. H P Lewis 12. 13. C Conway Wye.... 895 752 260 180 W. Heenan. J Thwaites 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22 t it On Brazil service < c( n n On transport service... On River Plate route.. Derwent.... Prince Magdalena. Oneida Tyne Avon Mersey Parana Dee 794 398 2567 2284 1916 1834 1001 2730 1699 260 200 800 530 400 440 250 800 440 E. West. R. Woolward. T. A. Bevis. J. H. Jellicoe. F. Reeks. R. Cur lewis. 23. Medway 1895 430 PANANA RAILROAD. 159 The following are the estimated Dates of Arrival of the outward Mails at the principal Stations, commencing from Southampton March 2d, 1860. (The mails are sent on from St. Thomas by the Company's intercolonial ships.) From Southampton : 2d and 17th of each month, arriving at St. Thomas 17th and 2d. " " " Aspinwall (Isthmus of Panama) 22d and 7th. " " " Jamaica 21st and 6th. " " " Barbadoes 20th and 5th. " " " Trinidad 22d and 7th. " " " Demerara 22d and 7th. 2d of each month, arriving at Havana (one mail each month) 22d idem. VeraCruz " 26th " Tampico " 28th " Carthagena " 24th " Santa Martha 26th " 17th Belize " 10th following m'th. Greytown 10th " The following are the estimated Dates of Departure of the homeivard Mails from the principal Stations, commencing with the Mails in reply to those from Southampton March 2d. (The mails are conveyed to St. Thomas by the Company's intercolonial ships.) From: Tampico (one mail each month) 29th, reaching Southampton 29th following Santa Martha 27th, 29th " Vera Cruz 2d,* 29th idem. Havana 8th.* ' 29th " Carthagena 5th,' * 29th " Belize 17th,* ' 14th following m'th. Greytown 19th, 14th Demerara . 9th* and 24th of each mor 1 *!" 1 ri .*"! Trinidad 9th* and 24th a be -2 "* ^. Barbadoes llth* and 26th n 3 a r& > JO OOiOOiO .OOOO>OOOOO O^^CS^t-t^COCO-^COOOt^CXlC^^CO ;Or i rH rH IO>OOiOOOOOO oocjjocjw^^: ~ ->OOiOOOOO>OOOO ,lOO>OOOiOOOO"O>OOOO BUBABJI y?OOCCCOrHrHOt~-t-t -OCOGO' i>OGOOO5O5CCi iOOOOOiOO>OOO ,O>OOOOOOOOOiOOOOiO t^- O^ rH CD CO rH r^ GO Ci GO C^J ^t* OS O GO t^ t^ C^ ^ CO O CO O O ^" rH rH rH rH rH ~ rH rH COOOOOiOOOOO .O>OOOOOO>OiOiOlOOOOOOO INiOiOOOOiO .OGOiOOOOU5COOOOOOiOO>OOO rHrHrHCMClCiCO ;CM OC7irHCOl> TJ^C<|rHC7iCO' llOIMCOH^ BjBjauiaa |5 ^ - - -P. ^P^^^Q^QPPQOOOOioioio "lOOOO .U5OOOOOO>O O"O JOOOOCOOiOOOOiO rH i I rH rH rH rH rH rH rH *"* rH OO ,OO>OOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOiOOOO>O GOO ;O^lM(NCiOO5rHCOOOrHCOCOCOO>Ot-Oa5rHrHOO "S .OOOOOOO>OOiOOOOOOOOOO>OO>OOO C^C^C of 40 cubic feet. Cigars and leaf tobacco 5 per ditto ditto. Measurement goods 3s. 6d. per cubic foot. Cases containing preserved turtle 2s. 6d. " " Turtle, on the quantity landed alive at Southamp- ton ; but the Company not liable for losses by death or disaster 1 5s. per cwt. Vanilla on value 1 per cent. " deliverable at Havre " 1& " Cochineal, " " l*d. per Ib. Five per cent, primage is charged on all homeward freight except vanilla. Balsam will not be received on board the Company's steamers. Homeward Parcels and Periodicals, including small parcels of succades, arrow-root, etc., will be charged at the same rates as outward parcels, but deliverable at Southampton. Freight must be prepaid. For rates, etc., see pages 166, 167. Intercolonial Specie, Cargo, and Parcels. Specie can be shipped for any port touched at by the packets. No package of specie is to be conveyed, and no bills of lading are to be granted, for less freight than five silver dollars. Freight on specie, jewelry, pearls, diamonds, and other precious stones, to be prepaid at the port of shipment : Exceeding 2500 miles, 1 per cent. ; ex- ceeding 1000 miles, and not above 2500 miles, f per cent. ; not exceeding 1000 miles, \ per cent. The distance between St. Thomas or intermediate places and Demerara is to be considered as not exceeding 1000 miles. No sums under 5000 dollars are to be conveyed, however short the dis- tance, at a lower rate than \ per cent. ; but when larger amounts are to be remitted from one British colony to another, or between any places visited by the Company's vessels eastward of Jamaica, provided, in either case, the distance is within 800 miles, the rate will be i per cent. The tables of routes to determine the distances. Copper coin, 7 per ton weight. Intercolonial Rates on Goods to be prepaid at Port oj Shipment. Goods can be forwarded between Barbadoes, St. Thomas, Aspinwall, Dejji- erara, Jamaica, Greytown, Trinidad, Granada, Carthagena, Honduras, San- ta Martha, and to these places from Havana and other foreign ports ; but cargo can not be carried to foreign ports, with the before-mentioned excep- tions, except by special permission. 3 10s. per ton measurement of 40 cubic feet. Cocoa and coffee, 3 10.s. per ton, on the gross weight. Indigo and other dry drugs, cochineal, Id. per Ib. Divi divi, id. per Ib. Beeswax, f d. per Ib. Dry and wet ^ From St. Thomas to Barbadoes, Trinidad, ) 1 silver dollar nrovisions i Demerara, or Jamaica $ per barrel. ms ' ( From St. Thomas to Greytown 1$ do. do. H 170 HAND-BOOK OF THE No primage is charged. No bills of lading for merchandise will be granted for less freight than 2 silver dollars. Balsam will not be received on board the Company's steamers. Intercolonial Parcels carried to all the places named under the head of "Outward Parcels," to be prepaid at the port of shipment, to be charged one fifth less than the transatlantic scale, and to be restricted in size and weight, as indicated under that head for different ports. See p. 166, 167. Preference is always to be given to transatlantic over intercolonial cargo. ISTHMUS OF PANAMA AND THE PACIFIC. Trains now run daily across the Isthmus of Panama, thus affording an easy means of transit for passengers, specie, goods, etc. Under arrangement with the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, whose vessels run from Panama southward, through tickets (comprising the privi- lege of stopping at an intermediate port, as stated in "General Passenger Regulations," page 163) can be obtained to or from Southampton and ports on the west coast of South America, but not including the providing or ex- pense of the transit of passengers or their luggage across the Isthmus of Pana- ma. Also, return tickets to or from those ports (including Panama), with an abatement of 25 per cent, on the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company's proportion of passage-money, available for twelve months, under the condi- tions mentioned in page 161. Goods, etc., for San Francisco and Victoria (British Columbia). The Royal Mail Steam Packet Company have completed arrangements for granting through bills of lading for measurement goods, jewelry, and plate, shipped by their steamers leaving Southampton on the 2d and 17th of each month, to be delivered at San Francisco and Victoria (British Co- lumbia) at the following rates of freight : To be paid on shipment of goods, etc.: Goods : From Southampton to Aspinwall, 6 per ton measure- ment, with 5 per cent, primage. Jewelry, on value: From Lon- don to Aspinwall, 11 per cent. ; from Southampton to Aspinwall, 1 per cent. Plate, on value : From South- afnpton to Aspinwall, 2 per cent. "To be paid on delivery of goods, etc., at destination. Goods : From Aspinwall to Sail Francisco, $80 per ton measure- ment, with 5 per cent, primage; from Aspinwall to Victoria, $100 per ton measurement, with 5 per cent, primage. Jewelry, on value : From Aspin- wall to San Francisco, 2 per cent. ; from Aspinwall to Victoria, 2| do. Plate, on value: From Aspinwall to San Francisco, 4 per cent. ; from .Aspinwall to Victoria, 5 per cent. No bill of lading will be issued for less freight than one guinea to Aspin- wall. Specie, Goods, etc. , from England or the West Indies, for Ports in the Pacific south of Panama, viz., Buenaventura, Tumaco, Guayaquil, Payta, Lambayeque, Huanchaco, Callao, Islay, Arica, Iquiqe, Cobija, Caldera, Coquimbo, Valpa- raiso. Cargo for Lambayeque and Huanchaco is carried on to Callao, where it is transhipped to the steamer proceeding northward. The Royal Mail Steam Packet Company have effected an arrangement with the Panama Railroad Company and the Pacific Steam Navigation PANAMA RAILROAD. 171 Company for the delivery of treasure, measurement goods, and quicksilver, from Southampton and the West Indian ports hereafter specified,* under through bills of lading, at ports in the South Pacific, and at the respective rates of freight under-mentioned, which must be paid on shipment of the goods, whether at Southampton or in the West Indies. Measurement Goods from Southampton, shipped by Steamer of M and 17 th of each Month. Per ton measurement (with 5 per cent, primage) : To Buenaventura., 12 15s. To ports south of Buenaventura, including Guayaquil 13 5 To Payta 13 15 To ports south of Payta, including Callao 14 5 To ports south of Callao, including Valparaiso 15 5 No bill of lading for goods to any of the above ports will be granted for less freight than 2 2s. From the West Indies, viz., *St. Thomas, Havana, Jamaica, Barladoes, Trin- idad, Demerara, Greytown, Carthagena, and Santa Martha. To any of the above-mentioned Pacific ports south of Panama, the rate of freight for measurement goods will be 2 10s. per ton less than from South- ampton to those places, and no primage will be charged. No bill of lading for goods from the West Indies to any of the above ports wiU be granted for less freight than 1 lls. 6d. Treasure from England, or the before-mentioned West Indian ports, at a uniform rate, viz. : For specie (gold) and jewelry, when received in London, 2 1 per cent, on value. No bill of lading for gold or jewelry will be granted in London for less freight than 2 7s. 6d. Of jewelry only small packages will be received in London. For specie (gold) and jewelry, when received in Southampton or the West Indies, 2 per cent, on value. No bill of lading for gold or jewelry will be granted in Southampton or the West Indies for less freight than 2 5s. For specie (silver), one eighth per cent, is to be added to the above re- spective rates for gold. Quicksilver, which must be delivered to the Company at Southampton for shipment : To ports as far as Callao inclusive," 5 per cent, on value ; to ports beyond Callao, 5f per cent, on value. No bill of lading for quicksilver will be granted in Southampton for less freight than 5 5s. in the one case, and 5 15s. in the other. Parcels not exceeding three cubic feet in measurement will be received at the Company's offices in London and Southampton for the ports above-men- tioned at the under-mentioned rates, which must be paid on shipment, and which include all charges except insurance (which, however, can be effected at the Company's office in London), whether the packages are received at London or Southampton : One cubic foot and under, 1 ; above 1 cubic foot and not exceeding 2, 1 10s. ; above 2 feet and not exceeding 3, 2. Under arrangement between the Koyal Mail Steam Packet Company and the Panama Railroad Company, through bills oflading^are granted at South- ampton as follows : To Central American (Pacific) ports, touched at by the steamers - of the Panama Railroad Company, viz., Punta Arenas, Realejo, La Union, La Libertad, Acajulta, San Jose de Guatemala. For goods, at 13 per ton measurement (with 5 per cent, primage), which must be paid on shipment. 172 HAND-BOOK OF THE No bill of lading will be granted for less freight than 2 2s. There is no through parcel or specie rate to these ports. Through bills of lading are also granted at Southampton, and in the West Indies at St. Thomas, Havana, Jamaica, Barbadoes, Trinidad, Demerara, Greytown, Carthagena, and Santa Martha, as far as Panama, for specie, jewelry, measurement goods, and quicksilver, destined for Panama and the North Pacific, at the following rates of freight, which must be paid on ship- ment: For goods, etc., from Southampton, 10 per ton measurement (with 5 per cent, primage). No bill of lading will be granted for less freight than 1 Us. Qd. For goods, etc., from the above West Indian ports, 7 10s. per ton meas- urement (without primage). No bill of lading will be granted for less freight than 1 Is. For specie (gold) and jewelry, when received in London, If per cent. No bill of lading will be granted for less freight than 1 7s. 6d. For specie (gold) and jewelry, when received in Southampton or at the above West Indian ports, H per cent. No bill of lading will be granted for less freight than 1 5s. For specie (silver), one eighth per cent, is to be added to the above re- spective rates for gold. For quicksilver, which must be delivered to the Company at Southampton for shipment, 3 per cent, on value. No bill of lading will be granted for less freight than 3 5s. Parcels for Panama not exceeding 3 cubic feet in measurement will be re- ceived at the Company's offices in London and Southampton at the follow- ing rates, which must be paid on shipment, and which include all charges except insurance (which, however, can be effected at the Company's office in London), whether the packages are received at London or Southampton : One cubic foot and under, 12s. ; above 1 foot and not exceeding 2, 18s. ; above 2 feet and not exceeding 3, 1 4s. NOTE. For farther information as to when goods, etc., must be ready for shipment, and general regulations in regard to cargo and parcels, etc., see pages 166, 167, and 168, or apply to 55 Moorgate Street, or to Mr. J. K. Linstead, the Company's Cargo Superintendent, Southampton. No package above 5 cwt. to be received, and none to exceed a cube of 27 feet, nor in length 4 feet 4 inches. Specie, etc., from Panama and the South Pacific. The following rates have been established by the Eoyal Mail Steam Packet Company, in addition to the freight charged by the Pacific Steam Naviga- tion Company, or other parties delivering treasure to the agent of the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company at Panama, for conveyance to the under-men- tioned places, such charges to include transport across the Isthmus, and all other expenses thence to the place of destination : To Branch Bank of France, Havre. Specie and bullion from Panama to Southamp- ton or Bank of England If per cent. 1& per cent. Pearls, emeralds, and t all other precious stones, unset being exempt from duty, from Panama to Southampton or the Bank of England, on value 1J " 2^ Jewelry, subject to duty, from Panama to South- ampton, on value , 1| " lA " PANAMA RAILROAD, 173 Specie, bullion, precious stones, etc., from Panama to British Guiana, Vera Cruz, and Tampico li per cent. Dito ditto to St. Domingo, Porto Rico, St. Thomas, Wind- ward Islands, Havana, Honduras, and Jamaica H Ditto ditto to Carthagena and Greytown i " N.B. The Pacific Steam Navigation Company's charge on specie, etc., from any port in Chili or Peru, etc., to Panama, for transfer to the Royal Mail Steam Packets, is i per cent., which, being added to the rates from Pan- ama above stated, will make the charges by through bill of lading, To Southampton or the Bank of England 2 per cent. To the Branch Bank of France, Havre 2^ " The through charge on jewelry, pearls, and all other precious stones from the South Pacific ports is the same as that on specie and bullion. Double freight will be imposed in all cases of detection where attempts may be made, by smuggling, etc., to evade the Company's established charges. Gold, etc., from San Francisco (California). Gold, etc., can be shipped at San Francisco, under the through bills of lading of the United States Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company and the Roy- al Mail Steam Packet Company, for conveyance to England, Havre, or the West Indies. For particulars as to through rates of freight, etc., apply in San Francis- co to W. L. Booker, Esq., H.B.M. Consul, or at the office of the Pacific Mail Steam-ship Company. Goods from South Pacific Ports to Southampton. Through bills of lading are granted at South Pacific ports by the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, in conjunction with the Panama Railroad Com- pany and the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company, at the following through rates of freight, payable on delivery of the goods at Southampton : Description of goods, etc. Shipped at ports between Payta and Panama, including Payta. Shipped at ports between Callao and Payta, in- cluding Callao. Shipped at ports between Valpa- raiso and Callao, incl. Valparaiso. Copper and tin, bars. Per ton weight. s. d. 728 828 8 16 9 16 900 15 8 8 15 16 Per ton measurement. 11 2 8 18 9 4 11 16 13 8 Per ton weight. s. d. 794 894 940 10 4 965 15 18 8 16 8 Per ton measurement. 11 13 4 19 10 8 12 8 14 Per ton weight. s. d. 7 19 4 8 19 4 9 16 10 16 9 16 16 8 8 17 6 Per ton measurement. 12 94 21 2 8 13 6 15 Copper and tin ore, in bags Silver ore Coffee, cocoa, and India-rubber Ortshilla Bark* Tobacco in leaf. v Whalebone . . Panama hats Sarsaparilla Genera 1 merch andise Primage at the rate of 5 per cent, will be charged in addition to the above rates of freight. * Bills of lading will be granted for bark to Havre at an advance of a farthing per Ib. on the above rates. 174 HAND-BOOK OF THE Parcels from South Pacific ports to Southampton at the same rates as ' Outward Parcels" to those places (see pages 171, 172). From Central American (Pacific) Ports to Southampton. Through bills of lading are granted by the Panama Eailroad Company, in conjunction with the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company, at the following ports, touched at by the Panama Kailroad Company's steamers, namely, Punta Arenas, Realejo, La Union, La Libertad, Acajutla, San Jose de Gua- temala. The through rates of freight from the above places to Southampton are as under-mentioned, and the freight is payable on delivery of the goods at that port: On silver ore, 9 per ton weight, with 5 per cent, primage. On coffee, 10 per ton weight, with 5 per cent, primage. On cochineal and indigo, 2^d. per lb., with 5 per cent, primage. Measurement goods, 7s. 6d. per foot, with 5 per cent, primage. Also on treasure (gold and silver) from the above places to Southampton or the Bank of England, London, 2J per cent, on value, payable on delivery of the treasure. Cochineal and indigo, deliverable at Havre, 2-&d. per lb., with 5 per cent, primage. Balsam will not be received on board the Company's steamers. ' 7th. LIVERPOOL AND WEST INDIA LINE OP SCREW STEAM-SHIPS (HOLT's), PLYING MONTHLY BETWEEN LIVERPOOL AND ASPINWALL Via THE WEST INDIES. The Saladin, the Plantagenet, the Talisman, and the Crusader. One of the steamers of this line will generally be at Aspinwall from the 9th to the 17th of each month. TARIFF OF FREIGHT, under through bill of lading, from San Jose cle Guatemala, Acajutla, La Lib- ertad, La Union, Eealejo, and Punta Arenas, to Liverpool and London, by the Panama Kailroad Company's steamers to Panama, thence by railroad to Aspinwall, and to their destination by vessels of the Liverpool and West In- dia Line and the London and Northwestern Railway. From San Jose, Acajutla, and La Libertad to Liverpool. Indigo and cochineal, 4 cents per lb. net ; hides, 77 cents each ; merchan- dise in cases, etc., 85 cents per cubic foot, and the regular transportation charges established by the tariff of the railroad. From La Union and Realejo to Liverpool Indigo and cochineal, 4 cents per lb. net ; hides, 75 cents each ; merchan- dise in cases, etc., 80 cents per cubic foot, and the transportation charges established by the tariff of the railroad. From Punta Arenas to Liverpool. Coffee, 1 | cents per lb. net ; hides, 69 cents each ; merchandise in cases, etc., 75 cents per cubic foot, and the transportation charges established by the tariff of the railroad. Indigo and cochineal, from any ports, 4| cents per lb. gross weight. Coffee in bags, from Punta Arenas to London, 2 cents per lb. gross weight. PANAMA RAILROAD. 175 The above rates include every charge on the Isthmus of Panama, also in Liverpool. Freight to be collected on the weights delivered or measurements taken in Liverpool, at the rate of $4 80 to the pound sterling. Primage will not be charged on produce or merchandise shipped from the ports above mentioned under through bills of lading. For farther information, apply to WILLIAM NELSON, Commercial Agent, Panama. CRISANTO MEDINA, Punta Arenas. COURTADE Y CLAVERA, La Union. H. J. FOOTE and J. MATHI, Sonsonate. J. SARAGIA, San Jose de Guatemala; and the captains of the Panama Railroad Company's steamers on board, or to ALFRED HOLT, No. 1 India Buildings, Liverpool. N.B. The rate of freight from Liverpool to the above ports, under through lills of lading, is 7 10s. per ton of 40 cubic feet, including all charges on the Isthmus, without primage. THE PANAMA RAILROAD COMPANY'S LINE OP SAILING VESSELS BETWEEN NEW YORK AND ASPINWALL. To accommodate shippers and facilitate trade, especially with the Pacific coast, the Panama Railroad Company have established a line of sailing ves^ sels between New York and Aspinwall, composed of the following : Bark Xantha Captain Chapman 321 tons. Magdalena Golden Rule.... Br g Arabella Costa Rica E. Drummond.. Caroline Day 285 Whiteberry...: 254 Lindsley 291 Peel 260 Cormay 244 Porter 220 These vessels are all of the first class, sailing at intervals of from a week to ten days. The average passage from New York to Aspinwall is twenty days, and from Aspinwall to New York twenty-five days. The freight from New York to Aspinwall is 15 cents per cubic foot, and 5 per cent, primage. The freight from Aspinwall to New York is from $6 to $8 per ton. Whale-oil .will be received and forwarded from Panama to New York by the road and the Company's Line of Sailing Vessels, at the rate of 8 cents per gallon, if received in the harbor alongside from ship's tackles, and at 7 cents per gallon if received at the pier, in full of all expenses, charging for the capacity of the cask, without allowing for wantage. Whalebone will be taken from ship at Panama through to New York at l cents per Ib. By these vessels the Panama Railroad Company issue through lills of lading to the ports of South America touched at by the steam-ships of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, at the following rates : 176 HAND-BOOK OF THE To Buenaventu- ra, Guayaquil, Payta, and in- termediates. To Callao, Valpa- raiso, and inter- mediates, south of Payta. General merchandise, and all goods embraced in first class of Panama Railroad tariff, per ton of 40 cubic feet, or 2240 Ibs. gross weight, at the option of the Company Beef and pork, per barrel $40 00 5 00 2 75 4 00 2 25 2 50 30 00 40 00 30 00 30 00 35 00 25 00 30 00 30 00 30 00 25 00 3 00 25 00 3000 35 00 $50 00 7 00 3 75 5 00 2 75 3 50 40 00 45 00 40 00 40 00 45 00 32 00 40 00 40 00 40 00 35 00 4 00 35 00 40 00 45 00 " " per half barrel Flour, per barrel " per half barrel Biscuit, per 100 Ibs Butter, lard, hams, bacon, cheese, salt fish, tallow, and rice, per ton of 2000 Ibs Refined sugar per ton of 2000 Ibs Wines and other liquors, in boxes and barrels, per ton of 40 cubic feet . Manufactured tobacco, per ton of 40 cubic feet Cigars, per ton of 40 cubic feet Unbleached domestics, per ton of 40 cubic feet Soap, per ton of 2000 Ibs Candles, per ton of 40 cubic fe"et Carriages and furniture, per ton of 40 cubic feet Agricultural implements, per ton of 40 cubic feet . . Pitch, tar, and rosin, per barrel Earthen-ware and glass-ware (coarse), in crates and boxes, per ton of 40 cubic feet Turpentine and oil in cases, per ton of 40 cubic feet Turpentine and oil in tins only, per ton of 40 cubic feet All weights to be the gross weight. Articles not enumerated to be charged at rates assimilating to the above. The Pacific Steam Navigation Company will issue through bills of lading for produce from the above ports. Goods arriving at Aspinwall by the Company's vessels, and consigned to parties at Panama, under through bills of lading, will be forwarded to them free of charges and commissions by the Company other than such as are ex- pressed in the bills of lading. Residents and agents at Panama can forward goods through the commer- cial agent of the Company at Panama to foreign ports beyond Aspinwall, on through bills of lading, by the Company's line of sailing vessels to New York, or by any other lines or vessels with which the Company has made the nec- essary arrangements. PANAMA RAILROAD. 177 Rates of Through Freight from New York, by the Company's sailing Vessels to Aspinwall, including Lighterage in Panama. 8 Dry-goods, hats, boots, shoes, drugs, and other goods, included in railroad tariff as first class, per ton of 40 feet Unbleached domestics, per ton of 40 feet Furniture, carriages, agricultural implements, wood- en-ware, clocks, etc., per ton of 40 feet Iron in bars, sheets, and bundles, iron castings, nails, spikes, copper, zinc, and lead, per ton of 2000 Ibs. Steel in bars and bundles, coarse machinery, com- mon hardware, earthen-ware, sugar-mills, -moulds, and -pans, shot, etc., per ton of 2000 Ibs Butter, cheese, lard, fish, ham, soap, and candles, per ton of 2000 Ibs Refined sugar, per ton of 40 feet Flour and rice, per barrel " per half barrel Wine in boxes and baskets, per ton of 40 feet ' in casks, and other liquors, per ton of 40 feet Tobacco, manufactured, per ton of 40 feet " unmanufactured, per ton of 40 feet Ship-bread, crackers, etc., per ton of 40 feet $40 00 $42 00 $44 32 00 12 34 00 00 36 00 30 00 3000 34 00 35 00 30 00 4 20 2 20 32 00 35 00 40 00 32 00 28 00 32 00 32 00 36 00 37 00 32 00 4 50 2 35 34 00 37 00 42 00 34 00 30 00 34 00 34 00 38 00 39 00 34 00 4 80 2 50 36 00 39 00 44 00 36 00 32 00 Goods can be shipped three times per month, by steamers of the Atlantic and Pacific Steam- ship Company, to Aspinwall, at an addition of 35 cents per foot, or $14 per ton, to the above rates. Rates of Return Freights, by the Company's sailing Vessels from Aspinwall to New York, including Lighterage in Panama. To Panama. Aspin- wall. New York. Lumber, from La Union, per M $20 00 " " Punta Arenas per M . . 18 00 Cochineal and indigo, from either port, per Ib. net. Hides, from San Jose', Acajutla, and La Libertad, each I* 32 $0 02| 47 $0 03i 62 Hides, from La Union and Realejo, each 30 45 60 " " Punta Arenas 24 39 54 Coffee from Punta Arenas per Ib gross 4 11 Deer and goat skins, from Punta Arenas, per Ib.-. " other ports, " ... Cigars, balsam, and first class goods, per railroad tariff, per foot... 1 H 50 11 2i 1 00 2j 3 1 16 No primage on through rates. H2 Officers and Directors of the Panama Railroad. DAVID HOADLEY, President. JOSEPH F. JOY, Secretary. GEORGE M. TOTTEN, Chief Engineer. HENEY SMITH, Treasurer. v WM. PARKER, General Superintendent. WILLIAM H. ASPINWALL, HENRY CHAUNCEY, EDWIN BARTLETT, WM. FELLOWES, GOUVERNEUR KEMBLE, SAMUEL W. COMSTOCK, WILLIAM WHITEWRIGrHT JK., JAMES T. SOUTTER, EDWARD CUNARD, JOSEPH W. ALSOP, THEODORE W. RILEY, JOHN STEWARD, DAVID HOADLEY. TOWEK OF 8AJS JEROAIK. BEIEF ACCOUNT OF THE REPUBLICS OF- CENTRAL AMERICA, CONNECTED WITH THE PANAMA RAILROAD BY THE STEAMERS OF THE CENTRAL AMERICAN LINE. THE course of the Panama Eailroad Company's Central American steamers, for their upward voyages from Pana- ma, is due south across the Bay of Panama to Point Mala, its western boundary ; from thence, following the coast-line, within distinct view of the rugged mountain range which bounds it, a northwesterly course is pursued to San Jose de Guatemala, the terminus of the route. The 1st port of entry is Punta Arenas, in the Republic of COSTA RICA, distant from Panama 450 miles. The 2d port of entry is Realejo, in the Republic of NICARAGUA, distant from Panama 692 miles. The 3d port of entry is La Union, in the Republic of SALVADOR, distant from Panama 762 miles. The 4th port of entry is Libertad, in the Republic of SALVADOR, distant from Panama 862 miles. The 5th port of entry is Acajutla, in the Republic of SALVADOR, distant from Panama 902 miles. The 6th port of entry is San Jose de Guatemala, in the Republic of GUATE- MALA, distant from Panama 966 miles. COSTA EICA. THE Eepublic of Costa Eica, lying between 8 30' and 10 40' N. latitude, and 82 and 85 W. longitude, has an area of about 23,000 sq. miles. Population about 150,000, 182 REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. composed of whites of Spanish descent, Indians, Negroes, and Mestizoes, the latter estimated at about one fifth of the whole. Costa Eica is politically divided into five depart- ments, viz., San Jose, Cartago, Heredia, Alajuela, and Pun- ta Arenas. The prevailing religion is Eoman Catholic. There are about 50 churches in the republic. Protestants are pro- tected from molestation or annoyance on account of their religion by treaties with Great Britain and the United States. Its educational facilities consist of a University, with a government endowment of $46,310, besides one fourth of the receipts of the tobacco monopoly ; there are also reported about 80 primary schools in the republic. The city of San Jose, the capital of the republic, is situ- ated in the department of the same name, about midway between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, on a table-land 45,000 feet above their level. It is regularly laid out. The buildings are generally of one story, on account of the frequency of earthquakes. The University is located at San Jose* ; there are also a government palace, a hospital, a mint, a national bank, and several churches. The city is connected with Punta Arenas, the sea-port, by a cart-road 70 miles in length. On this road, five leagues from the capital, is the government custom-house, at a place called Garita del Eio Grande. Punta Arenas, the only available sea-port of the Eepub- lic of Costa Eica, is situated on a small peninsula in the Gulf of Nicoya. This peninsula is a low sandy point a little more than four miles in length by from one fourth to a mile in breadth, its highest point about 16 feet above the level of the sea. Upon this the town is situated, and con- tains about 3000 inhabitants, one tenth of whom are Span- ish, the remainder a mixed race of Spanish, Indian, and Negro. The soil of Costa Eica is exceedingly productive. On COSTA RICA. 183 the a tieiras calientes," or torrid lands, which run back from the Pacific up to an elevation of 3000 feet, almost all the tropical productions abound. Above these are the "tierras templadas," which are terraces making out from the main Cordilleras (following very nearly the longitudi- nal axis of the state in a northwest and southeast direction), and are from 3000 to 5000 feet above the level of the sea, producing sugar-cane, potatoes, corn, coffee, oranges, etc., etc., in great perfection. Still above the tierras templadas are the tierras frias, or frigid lands, which are from 5000 to 6000 feet above the ocean level, among which several volcanoes shoot up, vary- ing from 8000 to 11,000 feet in height. The forests, which extend over a large portion of the republic, abound in tim- ber suitable for ship-building ; also mahogany, Brazil, and various other valuable dye-woods. The cultivated portion of Costa Eica lies principally with- in the valley of the Eio Grande, which flows down the west- ern slope of the main mountain range into the Gulf of Ni- coya. " Fully seven eighths of all the inhabitants are here concentrated, in a district not exceeding fifty miles in length by an average of twenty in breadth." CLIMATE. " The topographical features of the country indicate the variety of climate to be found in this state. In the district around the capital the thermometer generally ranges dur- ing the forenoon from 65 to 75 of Fahrenheit ; from noon until 3 P.M., during the hottest season, sometimes as high as 82 Fahrenheit ; during the night, at the coldest periods, never below 57. Upon both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts the average mean temperature is, of course, much higher, but on the Pacific the thermometer seldom rises above 85 Fahrenheit. The seasons are well defined. On the Pacific the dry season lasts from November to April, 184 REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. and the rainy from April to November. On the Atlantic slope these periods are nearly reversed. Here, too, a much larger amount of rain falls, and the climate is hot and insa- lubrious."* The Pacific coast has, however, the reputation of being much more healthy, and the table-lands and up- land valleys are, for a tropical country, said to be especial- ly salubrious. The mineral wealth of Costa Eica is almost wholly un- developed. Mines of gold, copper, iron, lead, and coal have been discovered, but no intelligent efforts have as yet been made to ascertain their value. The commercial products of Costa Eica are coffee, hides, dye-woods, sarsaparilla, tortoise-shell, pearl-shells, and ma- hogany. The principal of these, however, is coffee, which is of very fine quality, and scarcely second to the celebrated Mocha. The cultivation of this great staple was introduced in 1829. By 1845 about five millions of pounds were ex- ported; in 1848, ten millions; and in 1850, fourteen millions. Up to the year 1856 the coffee was transported by a tedi- ous and expensive voyage around Cape Horn to European markets. Since the establishment of the Central American Steam-ship Line, in connection with the Panama Eailroad, much of the coffee-crop has been exported through this di- rect channel, and not a small portion has thereby found its way to the United States. Large quantities have been sent to Panama for reshipment on the Pacific mail steamers for the California market. The impetus given by greatly in- creased facilities and increased demands have, notwithstand- ing the disturbed political condition of the country, resulted in a growing increase in the number and extent of the cof- fee estates ; and almost solely by means of its coffee trade, from one of the poorest, Costa Eica has become, relatively, one of the richest of the Central American states. The present export of coffee from Costa Eica yearly is estimated * Squier's Central America. COSTA EICA. 185 at over a million of dollars, and, with all its other exports combined, about $1,350,000. Its imports, which are chief- ly from Great Britain and the United States, present a total of about $1,200,000 per annum. A bank of discount, de- posit, and loans on real estate was established at the capital in 1858, and its notes are the legal currency of the repub- lic. The specie currency is mostly made up of Ameri- can half eagles, British sovereigns, and French Napoleons : the two former have a fixed value of $5 25, the latter a conventional one of $4 25. The silver currency of the country 'is the peso = $1, the real = 12^- cents, and J reals. HAEBOR AND COMMERCIAL REGULATIONS. The harbor at Punta Arenas is separated into two an- chorage grounds by the point of land on which the town is located. That between the town and the main land affords accommodation only to vessels under seven feet draught. Those drawing more anchor in the outer harbor, which is protected by two small islands lying to the westward. Goods from thence are brought by lighters to the landing- place in the inner harbor, a distance of about two miles, at a cost of about $1 per ton. Port Charges for both National and Foreign Vessels. No anchorage or tonnage dues are imposed. 1. Quarantine fees, 75 cents for each foot of depth. 2. Clearance duty, $3. 3. Hospital dues, 50 cents per head. No fees are exacted for the landing of passengers or their baggage, and a free permit is granted except when the latter exceeds 2 cwt., when all above that weight is subject to inspection. All foreign merchandise in packages, when landed, is required to be depos- ited in the public warehouses for the purpose of registry ; and, after being duly entered, may again be withdrawn, the party interested presenting the required certificates. The charge made for the above is 1 real (12 cents) on each gross cwt. Merchandise may be deposited on storage for any length of time on pay- 186 REPUBLICS OF CENTEAL AMERICA. ment of i real (6i cents) per month per cwt. ; subject, however, to existing laws. Open articles of merchandise, such as iron in bars and unpacked goods, are exempt from registry. Light-house dues are 6|r cents per ton. Any vessel, whether foreign or national, may compromise the hospital and light-house dues for $25 annually, paid in advance. Municipal and bridge tolls (intended for turnpikes), 371 cents for each quintal (of 101 pounds). A fine of $25 is imposed for violation of any one of the above regulations. There is, besides, a heavy penalty for sealing in packages of powder or to- bacco in quantities over 2 cwt. CUSTOM-HOUSE REGULATIONS OF COSTA EICA (1857). FREE LIST. 1st. All printed books for instruction or entertainment, if not in opposi- tion to religion and morals ; all periodicals and papers. 2d. Foreign music and musical instruments. 3d. Foreign seeds and plants. 4th. Gold and silver in coins and dust. 5th. All kinds of complete machines, and iron wheels with teeth. 6th. Quicksilver, stone coal, pack-thread, empty sacks or sacking mate- rials. 7th. Instruments of art and science. 8th. All kinds of carriages, coaches, cars, etc. PROHIBITED LIST. Imports. 1st. Tobacco in leaf or manufactured. > 2d. All spirits of molasses or rum, such as is manufactured in Costa Eica ; all books and other things offending public morals ; eatables of spoiled or bad quality ; fire-arms and munitions of war, if not ordered by government. By a decree bearing date September 21st, 1857, all foreign spirits are placed upon the same footing as gunpowder, rum, and tobacco, which are contraband except when imported on account of the government. The authorities are required to prosecute and punish those who sell liquor clandestinely, and without previous permission. The government will cause to be procured, on account of the state, all the various kinds of foreign spirits in common use, in order that the same may be expended in such public places as shall be instituted for this purpose, and the proprietors of hotels and restaurants will purchase at wholesale in those places for the supply of their establishments. COSTA RICA. 187 Exports. Tobacco in leaves or stems, unless by especial permit. Gold in coin pays at exportation 2 per cent, ad valorem ; in ingots, dust, or jewelry, 4 per cent, ad valorem ; silver in coin, 8 per cent, ad valorem.* Coffee pays export duty 12 cents on 101 pounds, duty paid in 3, 6, or 9 months, according to amount. All vessels arriving at Punta Arenas having any prohibited articles on board are required to deposit them in a government store-house at a cost of $2 per month for each cwt. (although they may be destined for other ports), or to leave the port within twelve hours. Coins and Weights. Coins. 1 peso fuerto, $1 ; 1 real, 12 cents. Weights. 1 quintal = 4 arrobas = 101 T 4 ^ Ibs. ; 1 arroba = 25 Ibs. 7 oz. ; 1 libra = 1^% Ib. ; 1 onza = 1 oz. Measure. 1 vara, 33 inches. Tariff in Articles received in Costa Rica from the United States. Denomination of Merchandise. Bread, ship Number, Weight, or Meas- ure. 1.014 Ib. of sugar-cane, 1.014 gall. 1.014 Ib. (t in bbls. of 101 Ibs. 101 Ibs. 1.014 Ib. ( a 101 Ibs. 101 Ibs. 1.014 Ib. 101 Ibs. 101 Ibs. 1.014 Ib. (i (i a n see Brandy. 101 Ibs. Rate of Duty. $0 03 prohibited. 11 02 03 1 00 (stills) 10 00 07 08 04 25 2 00 free. M 1 50 not defined. 03i 62i free. 3 00 not defined. 02 20 25 25 06 2 00 Brandy in bottles . . . ... " " barrels Candles tallow . ' ' stearine Cider Copper, manufactures of Cotton goods white . .. " " colored Cheese Cloths and cassimeres, fine Fish in oil Flour Gold and silver coin Hides and skins Indigo Pork, salt Printing-presses Rice Soap, common Silk raw " patent-leather Sheathing metal -. Spirits in casks Teas... * A recent act is reported abolishing the export duties upon gold and silver in coin or bullion, and jewels. 188 REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. Denomination of Merchandise. Tobacco, unmanufactured " manufactured Tin, crude Wines in casks Wood, manufactured as furniture .... Number, Weight, or Meas- ure. prohibited. 101 Ibs. Rate of Duty. $2 00 2 00 5 00 PAce Current of Commodities exported to the United States. Coffee, per cwt., $8 to $10. Lumber, cedar and mahogany, per M. ft., $45 to $50. Sarsaparilla, per cwt., $14. Hides, dry, per cwt., $6 50 to $7. Turtle-shell, per lb., $4 50 Old copper, per cwt, $15. Freight to Atlantic States, $25 per ton; California, $20; Lumber to California, $10 to $12 per ton. Terms : Cash on delivery. Hates of Wages. Clerks, $500 per annum ; engineers, $1000 to $1500; wheelwrights, $5 per day ; carpenters, $3 50 ; blacksmiths, $2 to $3 per day ; seamen, $25 per month. NICAEAGUA. THE Eepublic of Nicaragua has the states of Honduras and Salvador on the north, and Costa Eica on the south, the Pacific Ocean on the west, and the Caribbean Sea on the east, and lies between 83 20' and 87 30' west longi- tude, and 9 45' and 15 north latitude, embracing an area of about 48,000 square miles, and is estimated to contain a population of 300,000 souls :* Whites 30,000 Negroes 18,000 Civilized Indians 96,000 Mestizoes 156,000 This republic, like Costa Eica, is divided administrative- ly into five departments : * The last census, however, taken in 1846, shows only 257,000; but it fell short of the true number, as the people feared it a preliminary step to taxa- tion or conscription. NICARAGUA. 189 Population. The Oriental (census of 1846) 95,000 " Occidental 90,000 " Meridional 20,000 " Septentrional of Matagalpa 40,000 " " Segovia 12,000 The prevailing religion is Eoman Catholic, although all other religious denominations receive the protection of the government. The educational interests are at a very low ebb. There are reported two universities, one of which has a library of 15,000 volumes. Their course of instruction is said to be extremely defective. The expenses are paid partly by old endowments, and partly by a fee of $12 from each pupil. Besides the universities there are sixty primary schools, with a total of 2800 pupils, and five schools for females in the entire republic. Its chief city and capital (though not invariably the seat of government) is Leon, in the Occidental department, about a day's journey from Kealejo, the Pacific sea-port of the re- public. It was, under the ancient Spanish rule, one of the finest cities of Central America, but has greatly declined, though many marks of its former estate remain. It is reg- ularly laid out, the houses usually of one story. The pub- lic edifices are numerous and imposing: the great Cathe- dral of St. Peter covers an entire square, and is said to have cost $5,000,000; besides this there are sixteen churches, two hospitals, and a University. Population about 35,000. The capitals of the different departments are, Population. Eivas, in the Meridional department (census of 1846) 20,000 Granada, in the Oriental " 10,000 Matagalpa, in the Septentrional of Matagalpa 2,000 Segovia, in the Septentrional of Segovia 8,000 f Massagua 15,000 \ Managua 12,000 Other considerable towns <^ Granada 10,000 ) Chinandega 11,000 ' Realejo 1,200 190 REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. Eealejo, the principal sea-port town, is situated at the head of an estuary about three miles from the harbor of the same name ; the low and swampy coast-lands prevent- ed its establishment at a nearer point. It contains about 1200 inhabitants. The transportation between the harbor and the town is by bongoes and canoes. TOPOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, AND NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. The northeastern portion of the republic is mountainous in its character, with a climate of the temperate zone. It abounds in mines of gold, silver, copper, iron, and lead. Precious stones, such as the opal and jasper, have been dis- covered ; also extensive beds of anthracite coal. None of these deposits have yet been effectively worked, on account of the ignorance and indolence of the inhabitants. The great Sierra Madre range (bristling with high volcanic peaks, several of which are active) passes through the west- ern portion of the republic; it is broken, however, by a broad valley, 300 miles in length by 150 in width, which contains the Lakes of Managua and Nicaragua, the latter well known as traversed by the old San Juan transit-route in former times. This valley is made up of fertile slopes, beautiful and productive plains, well adapted to agricul- tural and grazing purposes, and contains within its limits the chief cities and the greater portion of the inhabitants of the republic. It has a tropical climate. The seasons are divided into the wet and dry, the wet embracing the months from May to November, and the dry the remaining part of the year. The temperature is equable, seldom ris- ing above 90, or falling below 74. The soil is admirably adapted to the growth of all the great staples of the tropics. Indigo, sugar, cacao, tobacco, rice, coffee, cotton, etc., may all be successfully grown, but ignorance, indolence, and political disturbance have so SAN SALVADOR. 193 dwarfed the agricultural interests of the republic that at present few articles are raised in amount beyond the im- mediate necessities of the people. The chief exports are indigo, sugar, cotton, hides, dye-woods, and bullion ; small quantities of sarsaparilla, cacao, ginger, gum acacia, gum copal, and caoutchouc are also exported. Crude sulphur is obtained in considerable quantities from the vicinity of the volcanoes, also nitre and sulphate of iron ; but the entire exports of the republic do not exceed one million of dollars annually. The imports in manufactured goods and liquors amount to about half that sum. From Great Britain are imported calicoes and other man- ufactured cottons, hardware, lead, gunpowder, etc., etc. ; and from the United States, soap, candles, hardware, brandy, gun- powder, etc. SAN SALVADOR. THE Eepublic of San Salvador has Guatemala on the north and west, and Honduras on the east. It is separated from Kicaragua on the southeast by the Bay of Conchagua. It lies between 13 and 14 10' north latitude, and 87 and 90 west longitude, embracing an area of about 9600 square miles, and is estimated to contain 294,000 inhabitants Spanish whites, Indians, and mixed races. It is divided into eight departments : Departments. San Miguel . ... Capitals. San Miguel ..... ... Population. 80000 San Vicente 56,000 LaPaz Sacatecolnca 28000 Chalaltenango Chalaltenango > Suchitoto . Suchitoto ) " 75,000 San Salvador San Salvador 80 000 Sonsonate Sonsonate ) Santa Ana . . . Santa Ana f 75,000 194 REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. The capital of the republic is San Salvador, situated about twenty-two miles from the port of La Libertad, on the Pa- cific coast. Formerly it contained about 25,000 inhabit- ants, having eight or ten fine church edifices, a flourishing University, a female seminary, several hospitals, and the buildings of the general government, and was a place 6f considerable 'trade ; but in 1854 it was almost totally de- stroyed by an earthquake, when it was deserted by many of its inhabitants, and the seat of government transferred to Cojutepeque, twelve leagues distant. San Salvador is now in process of rebuilding, its inhabitants having mostly re- turned, and it promises speedily to regain its former condi- tion. TOPOGRAPHY. San Salvador has a coast-line on the Pacific 160 miles in length, along which, for the most part, lies a belt of low alluvial land, varying in breadth from ten to twenty miles ; back of this is a broad plateau, about 2000 feet above the ocean level, an4 along which numerous high volcanic peaks arise. Farther beyond is a broad and beautiful valley, from twenty to thirty miles in width, and over one hundred in length, drained by the Lempa (a large river, navigable for vessels of light draught for upward of 100 miles, and emp- tying into the Pacific). The northern border of the state rises up into a range of mountains, which separates it from Honduras. In the eastern and western portions are also well-watered valleys of great beauty and considerable ex- tent. The soil of the mountain slopes, the valleys, and the coast alluvions is fertile and productive in the highest de- gree, and well adapted to the growth of the tropical sta- ples. Cotton is cultivated to some extent along the coast, and. with good results. The chief productions, however, are indigo, sugar, tobacco, balsam, cacao, maize, and fri- SAN SALVADOR. 195 joles. The usual fruits of the tropical and several of the temperate zones are abundant. Indigo is the chief article of export. Under the Spanish rule this product was ex- ported to the amount of over $3,000,000 per annum, but since the independence of the state, owing to intestine wars and political disturbances, but little more than $1,000,000 per annum has been produced. A district along the coast, between the ports of La Libertad and Acajutla, called " Costa del Balsimo," produces an article known commer- cially as the " balsam of Peru." It is collected solely by the aboriginal Indians who inhabit that district. About 20,000 pounds (valued at 50 cts. per pound) are obtained for annual export. The mineral productions of San Salvador are not exten- sive. It has, however, in the northeastern part of the state, valuable mines of silver and gold. Iron of a very superior quality is abundant. Vast deposits of coal are also said to exist there. In general, the inhabitants of Salvador have more intel- ligence and industry than those of the previously-described states of Central America. Their government is more lib- eral, and the rights of person and property are more re- spected, and the privileges extended to foreigners are great- er than those above mentioned. Under a treaty negotiated by Mr. Squier, United States minister to Salvador in 1850, all the rights, privileges, and immunities of the citizens of Salvador in commerce, navigation, mining, holding and transferring property, are extended to the citizens of the United States in that republic. "The commerce of San Salvador is chiefly carried on through means of fairs established by the government in the districts best suited for the exhibition of the products of the state. The principal fairs are held at Chalaltenango, San Vicente, and San Miguel. The two former take place on the first of November of each year ; - the latter, called 196 REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. ' Fair of La Paz,' on the 21st of the same month. It lasts about two weeks, and is far the most important of any held in the country. It attracts buyers and sellers not only from all parts of Central America, but from nearly every part of the Pacific coast, as well as from England, Germany, France, and the United States. England sends calicoes, shirtings, drills, linens, hosiery, cutlery, iron, and steel ; France, silks, cambrics, wine, and spirits ; the United States, coarse cottons, sperm-oil, and hardware ; Spain, paper, wine, oil, and spirits ; Germany, glass, hardware, and toys ; Italy, oil, preserves, and liquors ; Chili and Peru, hats, hammocks, pellons, etc. About the only product given in exchange for them is the staple of the state, indigo. A second fair, called 'Ceniza,' takes place in San Miguel about the be- ginning of February. To both of these fairs large num- bers of cattle are brought from Honduras and Nicaragua. In 1857 the number amounted to 17,844, averaging in value from $5 to $8 each."* The amount and value of the imports and exports of the state may be estimated from the following table : Years. 1854 Imports. $1,015,925 Exports. $ 786,711 1855 698 219 765 324 1856 1,046,720 1,285,485 1857... 860,104 1,304,102 TARIFF REGULATIONS. Import Duties of San Salvador on Articles received from the United States. Rate of Duty 24 per cent, ad valorem. Denomination of Merchandise. Bread, ship Number, Weight, or Meas- ure. 101 Ibs Rate of Duty. $3 00 dozen, 2 50 gallon 1 00 prohibited " stearine 1 014 Ib 30 Cider in bottles dozen, 2 00 Copper manufactures of 101 Ibs 25 to 37 cts Cotton goods, white yard. 12 colored.., * ' 12 Squier's Central America. SAN SALVADOR. 197 Denomination of Merchandise. Cheese Number, Weight, or Meas- ure. 25 Ibs. 7 oz. Kate of Duty. $4 00 yard 1 00 101 Ibs 4 00 Flour barrel, 4 00 dozen panes, 38 cts to $1 Hides and skins dozen $12 to $24 not defined Pork salt 101 Ibs 5 00 free Paper writing ream 2 00 Rice 25 Ibs 7 oz 3 00 Soap, common 101 Ibs. 8 00 Silk raw not defined Shoes calf-skin for men dozen $6 to $18 " Datent-leather ... it it HARBORS. San Salvador has three ports of entry : 1st. That of La Union, at the southeastern extremity of the state, in the Bay of Fonseca. This possesses an excel- lent and extensive anchorage-ground, from three to twelve fathoms deep, free from shoals, and nearly ten miles in di- ameter. It is surrounded on three sides by high lands, and its entrance is protected by a number of islands. It is de- cidedly the best harbor in Central America. Its waters abound in fine fish and excellent oysters. 2d. La Liber tad, 100 miles from La Union, is an open roadstead. It is connected with the city of San Salvador by a cart-road 26 miles in length. 3d. Acajuila, 40 miles from La Libertad, is also a road- stead. It is protected from all winds except from the southwest; but there is frequently a heavy swell prevail- ing, which often renders the landing difficult. It is con- nected by a good road with Sonsonate (chief city of one of the richest districts in the state), 12 miles distant. COMMERCIAL REGULATIONS. All vessels of the United States, no matter whence they may have come or how laden, are to be treated in all the 198 REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. ports of San Salvador, as to all duties of tonnage, light- house, or any other charges of whatsoever denomination or character, as national vessels. From this equality the coast- ing-trade is excepted, which is reserved to the national flag; but should any favors of navigation be hereafter granted to any other foreign nation, it will immediately apply to the United States. Imports into San Salvador in vessels of the United States, no matter whence imported or of what origin, to be sub- ject to the same duties, charges, and fees of every descrip- tion as similar imports in vessels of San Salvador; and if these imports consist of articles the growth, produce, or manufacture of the United States, to be subject to no high- er or other duties than other similar imports the growth, produce, or manufacture^of any other foreign nation. PORT CHARGES. All sea-going vessels, without distinction of burden or flag, pay $17, in full of tonnage and other port dues. There are no pilots. GUATEMALA. THE State of Guatemala, lying between latitude 14 and 18 north, and longitude 89 and 93 west, is bounded north by the Mexican provinces of Tobasco, Chiapas, and Yuca- tan, east by the British establishment of Honduras, south by the states of Honduras and Salvador, and west by the Pacific Ocean, and embraces an area of 43,380 square miles. It is estimated to contain about 907,500 inhabitants, made up of between 7000 and 8000 whites (principally of Spanish descent), 150,000 Ladinos, or mixed bloods, and 750,000 Indians. The Pacific coast-line of Guatemala is about 250 miles in GUATEMALA. 199 length, trending northwest, and is bordered by a strip of al- luvial land from twenty to thirty miles in width, broken, however, by occasional spurs from the coast-range of mount- ains by which it is bounded, and which, spreading out into broad table-lands, form the greater portion of the surface of the state. These great plateaux in the southern part have an elevation of from 2000 to 5000 feet, gradually at- taining a still greater height toward the northeastern part, where they are. more than 8000 feet above the ocean level. They are frequently separated by deeply-cut and extensive valleys of great fertility. Toward the eastern boundary they subside into the low lands bordering the coast of the Bay of Honduras. Along the Pacific several volcanic peaks arise, the highest of which is more than 14,000 feet above the level of the sea. There are several lakes in the interior, the largest of which, that of Atitlan, in the department of Solola, is said to be thirty miles in length by ten or fifteen in breadth, and no less than 1800 feet in depth. There are also numerous rivers in the state. These, for the most part, flow into the Bay of Honduras or the Gulf of Mexico. The rivers emptying into the Pacific are small and few. None have much importance in a commercial point of view. CLIMATE. The climate of Guatemala varies greatly with its vary- ing elevations, from the tropical heat of the coast-lands and lower valleys, through the intermediate spring-like temper- ature of the interior plateaux and higher valleys, to the cold and sometimes almost wintry climate of the most elevated table-lands and mountains. The plateau on which the cap- ital is situated is in the interior, about 90 miles from the Pacific coast. There the average maximum temperature throughout the year is 88.7 Fahrenheit, and the average 200 REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. minimum is 38.9. The average mean is 65. The aver- age temperature of the coast-lands is probably between 80 and 85 Fahr., but data do not exist for exact calculation of this. On the highest table-lands and mountains in the northeastern part, ice and snow are not uncommon in cer- tain seasons of the year. Here the productions of the tem- perate zones abound. Wheat of a superior quality is pro- duced, and sheep are raised extensively. The wool-crop for 1857- was 1,500,000 pounds, but, from the lack of roads, the expense of getting these products to market bars their being raised for exportation. Cattle-raising is also carried on to a considerable extent. On the lower plateaus and valleys coffee, cochineal, tobacco, sugar-cane, and indigo are luxuriantly grown, also the vegetables and fruits of both tropical and temperate zones. On the low coast-lands cotton and rice flourish. The chief staple production of the state is the cochineal insect. The yearly produce of this is variable, on account of various contingencies to which it is subject. The crop in 1849 was -1,469,100 Ibs. ; in 1851, 1,231,610 Ibs. ; in 1852, 567,000 Ibs. ; in 1853, 312,700 Ibs. ; in 1854, 1,757,300 Ibs. ; in 1855, 1,204,510 Ibs. It is nev- ertheless abundantly profitable, as its cultivators aver that if one crop is successfully gathered out of three raised, the receipts from its sale repay for the entire labor and capital expended on the whole. Cacao, silk, dye-woods, balsam, various gums, and many other minor articles, are produced to some extent. The mineral productions of Guatemala are not extensive. Deposits of gold, silver, copper, lead, and iron exist. Some have been worked with considerable profit, but the mining interest is greatly neglected. The seasons are divided into the wet and dry, the former commencing at about the middle of May, and continuing until the middle or end of October; the dry season then sets in, and lasts for the remainder of the year. GUATEMALA, 201 POLITICAL DIVISIONS. Guatemala is divided into seven departments, those of Guatemala, Solola, and Quezaltenango extending along the Pacific coast; Sacatepequez and Totonicapam in the inte- rior ; Yera Paz, the largest of all, in the northern part ; and Chiquimula in the eastern. The chief towns are : In the Department of Guatemala Guatemala City ; Escuintla, popula- tion 6000; Amatitlan, population 15,000; and Jalpatagua. In the Department of Solola Solola ; Atitlan ; Masatenango. In the Department of Quezaltenango Quezaltenango, population 25,000; San Marcos ; Tejutla ; Tapachula. In the Department of Sacatepequez Old Guatemala (or Antigua), popu- lation 20,000; Chimaltenango ; Patsun. In the Department of Totonicapam Totonicapam, population 15,000; Momostenango ; Gueguetenango ; Jacaltenango. In the Department of Vera Paz Salama ; Kabinal ; Copan, population 14,000; Cajabon, population 4000. In the Department of Chiquimula Chiquimula, population 6000 ; Za- capa, population 5000 ; Gualan, population 4000 ; Casaguastlan ; Esquipu- las, population 1800 ; besides many other large towns. Guatemala City, the capital of the state, is 90 miles dis- tant from San Jose, the sea-port of the Pacific coast, and 220 from Izabal, on the Atlantic, and has a population of about 40,000. It is beautifully situated on a broad table- land 4372 feet above the ocean level. The volcanoes of Agua and Fuego, 12,000 and 14,000 feet in height, tower up on the northern side 40 miles distant ; the other sides pre- sent low mountains and hills in beautiful variety. The climate is one of perpetual spring, the thermometer aver- aging 65 Fahrenheit, and perfectly salubrious. It is reg- ularly laid out in a quadrilateral form, with its sides facing the cardinal points ; the streets are forty feet broad, cross- ing each other at right angles. The main plaza is 150 yards square, the east side occupied by the Cathedral, the palace of the archbishop, and other buildings of the Church authorities ; on the west is the government house, offices, 12 202 EEPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. etc., of the government officials ; on the north, the cabildo, or town-hall, prison, etc. ; and on the south a range of stores of Various kinds. In the middle of the square is a fountain, elaborately and artistically sculptured of gray stone, fur- nishing an abundant supply of water ; besides this, in each of the seven or eight lesser squares are fountains well sup- plied with water, which is brought to the city by two aqueducts a distance of five and six miles. The dwellings are all of one story. There are twenty-six churches, some of large size, with elegantly ornamented interiors ; to sev- eral are attached monasteries and convents ; a University, two colleges, one public and several private elemental schools, three hospitals, one alms-house, two theatres (one of which, just finished, is a large and elaborate Corinthian building, said to have cost $200,000), and a large amphi- theatre for bull-fights. CHARACTER OF THE INHABITANTS. The Indians are the cultivators of the lands, and are, in general, industrious and peaceable;- some are owners of estates, but the landholders are principally whites. The mixed bloods are mostly mechanics and petty traders. As a people the Guatemaltecos are courteous, affable, and hos- pitable to strangers. The prevailing religion is the Eoman Catholic, and there are few countries in the world where the exercises and cer- emonials of that Church are more universally and elabo- rately practiced. THE PORTS OF GUATEMALA. The commerce of Guatemala previous to the establish- ment of the Panama Railroad Company's line of steamers on the Pacific coast of Central America was almost entire- ly carried on through the port of Izabal, on the Atlantic. This port is inaccessible except to vessels of very light GUATEMALA. 203 draught. It is over 200 miles from the capital (surround- ing and to the westward of which the great proportion of the staples of the country are principally produced), and is reached by mule-paths, through a mountainous and unin- habited region, with great labor and expense. It is now, however, rapidly losing its importance, on account of the more accessible port of San Jose, on the Pacific, through which much of the commerce of the state is already carried on. San Jose lies in latitude 13 56' north, and longitude 90 42 ' west. It is an open roadstead. The coast is very clear, running east and west. The anchorage is about three quar- ters of a mile from shore, in eleven to fifteen fathoms of water. The swell breaks very heavily upon the shore, and out as far as forty or fifty fathoms, making it necessary to use a girt-line for landing and leaving. The currents are very strong, and vary with each change of the moon, the variations sometimes taking place within the short period of six hours. From November to February the landing is easy. In March the ebb and flow of the tide extends from 90 to 100 yards, and at the flood tide the surf is so heavy as to dash up the beach a distance of 100 to 120 yards; after March the sea is again calm until July, and from July to December it is again rough, and the landing difficult. An iron screw-piled pier is now, however, in process of con- struction at this place by the government of Guatemala (if it is not already finished), which will extend from the shore to a point beyond the breakers, thus enabling the transpor- tation between ship and shore to be performed at every season of the year with facility and safety. The town of San Jose* has a population of between two and three hundred. Supplies for vessels are, however, pro- cured with much difficulty here, unless provision be pre- viously made to obtain them from Escuintla, a town forty miles distant, on the road to the capital. There are no means at this port for refitting or repairing vessels at pres- 204 EEPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. ent. The modes of conveyance from the port of San Jose to the interior are by mules and stages, and the arrange- ments are convenient and ample. Diligences for the trans- portation of passengers are in waiting on the arrival of the Panama Kailroad Company's, steamers for conveyance to the capital, 90 miles distant, and the intermediate points, and the roads throughout the dry season are excellent. In the wet season the journey from San Jose to Escuintla is performed on mules, owing to the deep mud on the low land to that place ; from thence to Guatemala City the dil- igence is in operation throughout the year. A small trade is carried on through the minor ports of Santa Tomas on the Atlantic and San Luis on the Pacific. HARBOR REGULATIONS. "Every vessel which shall anchor in the ports of this re- public, no matter whence it may come, shall pay a tonnage duty of two reals (25 cents) for each ton of measurement. This measurement shall be ascertained from the register, the certificate of nationality, the patent or clearance under which it sails." "Shall be free of tonnage duty: 1st. Small vessels engaged in transporting merchandise from one port to another of the republic ; 2d. Vessels which shall anchor in ballast to take in water, provisions, or fruits of the country, provided they discharge no cargoes ; 3d. Vessels of war, and regular mail or steam packets, provided they do not discharge mer- chandise over twenty tons; 4th. Merchant vessels which, exceeding 150 tons measurement, discharge not exceeding twenty tons of merchandise ; 5th. Vessels which receive on board for exportation produce of the country, excepting cochineal" Cochineal pays an export duty of five reals on each ceroon to the Church. GUATEMALA, 205 TARIFF EEGULATIONS OF GUATEMALA. PROHIBITED LIST. Guns, muskets, and all other arms for military purposes ; munitions of war, as lead, balls, gunpowder, and rifles ; prints, cuts, pictures, etc., bear- ing against public morals and religion; books, manuscripts, etc., especially interdicted. FREE LIST* Anchors, cable, rigging, and all other articles belonging to ships' mate- rial not comprehended in the tariff; quicksilver, barometers, fire-engines, staves and heading of all kinds ; scientific instruments and agricultural im- plements; books, music, maps, and geographical charts; machines and steam-engines; gold and silver coins; barrels, hogsheads, etc., etc., for ex- porting the products of the country. Duties on Articles received from the United States, Denomination of Merchandise. Bread, ship Brandy in bottles " in barrels , Candles, tallow " stearine , Cider Copper, manufactures of Cotton goods, white , " colored Cheese Cloths, cassimeres, fine Fish in oil Flour Gold and silver coin Glass, window Hides and skins , Indigo , Pork, salt Printing-presses Paper, writing , Rice Soap, common Silk, raw Shoes, calf-skin, for men , " patent-leather Sheathing, metal Spirit in casks Teas ... Tobacco, unmanufactured Tin, crude Wines in casks Wood, manufactured as furniture Number, Weight, or Measure. arroba of 25 Ibs. 7 oz. dozen, 15 to 18 gallons/ 1.014 Ib. M dozen bottles, 1.014 Ib. yard, 101 Ibs. yard, 1.014 Ib. 25 Ibs. 7 oz. box of from 137 to 150 Ibs. 1.014 Ib. ti 25 Ibs. 7 oz. ream, 25 Ibs. 7 oz. it 1.014 Ib. pair, 1.014 Ib. 12 to 15 gallons, 1.014 Ib. per cent, on the invoice value, with an addition of 20 per cent, on the aggre- gate amount. 101 Ibs. 12 to 15 gallons, 40 per cent, ad val. Rate of Duty. $0 50 72 3 44 03 05 05 12* 021 03 2 88 78 041 25 free. 3 60 12 2 00 48 free. 25 24 72 72 04 57 08 3 44 18 5 00 2 16 206 REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. . The official statement of the imports into Guatemala for the year 1860 shows the amount to have been $1,495,191 ; exports, $1,870,631. Imports from Great Britain, $802,305 ; France, $295,651 ; Germany, $108,649 ; the United States, $50,235 ; Spain, $47,702 ; and small amounts from various other countries. Of the exports about two thirds were of cochineal, the remainder consisting of ores, sugar, coffee, sarsaparilla, dye-woods, and hides. The following compar- ative statement will show the increase of trade since the establishment of the Central American Steam-ship Line in 1856: Value. Value. Ores exported in 1855 $6,600; in 1860... $92,575 Sarsaparilla exported in 1855... 1,890; " ... 13,800 Dye-woods " " ... 5,000; " ... 27,672 Hides " " ... 26,000; " ... 76,582 Sugar " " ... none; " ... 52,377 Coffee " " ... none; " ... 15,352 The coffee of Guatemala is of very fine quality, and promises soon to become a prominent article of export. By a contract between the government of Guatemala and the Panama Eailroad Company, a drawback of ten per cent, on tariff rates is allowed on all merchandise pass- ing over the Panama Eailroad en route for that state. Eates of wages are much the same as in Costa Eica (p. 188). Laborers on estates receive from 1 to 2 reals per day. REPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMERICA CONNECTED WITH THE PANAMA RAILROAD. NEW GRANADA. NEW GRANADA, the most northerly, as well as the most important of the South American republics, is situated mostly between the equator and 12 north latitude, and be- tween 70 and 83 west longitude, containing an estimated area of 480,000 square miles. Its greatest length is about 800 miles, and its greatest breadth about 600. It is bound- ed on the north by the Caribbean Sea, on the east by the Eepublic of Venezuela, on the southeast by Brazilian Gui- ana, on the south by the Eepublic of Ecuador, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Along the western portion, the Andes, divided into three great chains, pass in a northeast and southwest direction through the republic. To the east of the most eastern chain the country is spread out into vast llanos or plains, about 300 feet above the ocean level, gradually descending to the Eiver Orinoco, one of its east- ern boundaries. These immense plains are said to be un- fit for cultivation, but large herds of cattle and horses are raised upon them. The wet season on the llanos lasts from November till April, and the dry the remainder of the year. The average annual temperature is 80 Fahrenheit ; the wet season averages about 8 hotter than the dry. This section is principally watered by the tributaries of the Eiver Orinoco. 208 REPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMERICA. Upon the sides and summits of the Cordilleras are vast table-lands, varying in climate and productions with their elevation, and embracing every grade of temperature, from that of the torrid zone to the regions of perpetual snow and ice, and, with the exception of the snowy regions, these plains are said to be remarkably fertile, producing in great abundance and perfection the fruits and agricultural staples of every zone. Between the mountain ranges are broad and beautiful valleys : that of Magdalena between the east- ern and central ranges, and Cauca and Atrato between the central and western. These valleys are drained each by large navigable rivers of the same names. In the terri- tories comprehended between the eastern and western An- des there are two wet and two dry seasons, the wet coming on at the approach of the equinoxes, and the dry at that of the solstices ; each continues about ninety days. The northeastern portion of the republic, bordering the Atlantic, is low and unhealthy, but of great fertility. At the northwestern portion the Cordilleras become depressed, and frequently disconnected, forming the low hill and val- ley country of the Isthmus, where, like the northeast por- tion, the climate is hot, and, in the lower lands, insalubrious, but richly productive. The seasons in these portions of the republic are divided into the dry and rainy, each occu- pying about six months of the year. The population of New Granada, which has increased greatly during the past few years, is now estimated at 2,747,500, of whom 1,648,519 are said to be whites, most- ly of Spanish descent; 183,166 pure Indian; 97,583 Ne- gro ; 366,332 Mulattoes and Samboes ; 451,900 of differ- ent races mixed with Indian. The Eepublic of New Granada is politically divided into eight states, viz. : NEW GKANADA, Population. 168,500 Capitals. Panama. 404,000 Popayan. 635,000 Bogota. 465,000 Tunja. Santander 463,000 Bucaramanga. 89 900 Santa Martha Bolivar 222,100 Carthagena. Antioauia 300,000 Medellin. Agriculture holds the first place in the industrial inter- ests of New Granada. Eice, cotton, coffee, tobacco, cocoa, sugar, and the tropical fruits are the principal cultivated productions of the low valleys and coast-lands, which also produce spontaneously caoutchouc, vanilla, anise, balsams, dye and cabinet woods, ivory-nuts, Peruvian* bark, etc. The elevated valleys and plains yield wheat, maize, and al- most all the other products of the temperate zone. The cultivation of the soil is, however, very rudely and indif- ferently managed, and the reclaimed lands bear a very small proportion to the whole. The manufacturing interests of the republic are also in a very low condition, and consist of little more than coarse woolen and cotton cloths, earthen- ware, and cigars for the use of the lower classes, and the straw hats known in com- merce as Panama hats. The mineral productions of the republic are gold, silver, and platinum ; it also possesses valuable mines of emeralds and of salt ; but the mining interest is sadly neglected, be- ing mostly left to the lower classes. Turtle-shell and pearls of fine quality are procured in considerable abundance. The entire annual exports are estimated as follows : Cacao $200,000 Caoutchouc, maize, cot- ton, ivory-nuts, anise, rice, balsam , etc 200, 000 Sugar, flour, preserves, rough woolen and cot- ton cloths, brandies, etc 50,000 Gold f 5 000 000 Platinum, silver ore, and emeralds 1 000 000 Pearls and turtle-shell... Tobacco 800,000 3 500 000 Straw hats 1 400 000 Peruvian bark . . . 600 000 Coffee 600 000 Hides 500 000 Dye and building woods 500,000 210 REPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMERICA, Education in New Granada is at a low ebb, though, nom- inally, liberal provisions for public instruction are made by the government. By law a free public school is established in every parish throughout the republic ; in all there are said to be 800 public schools, and 60 high-schools and col- leges, and 47 printing-offices.* The capital of the republic is Bogota, in the State of Cun- dinamarca, in lat. 4 36' 6" north, and long. 74 10' west, which is situated on a broad plateau 8655 feet above the level of the sea. It is regularly laid out, the houses mostly built of sun-dried bricks, and of two stories, and is amply supplied with water. ' It contains twenty-four churches, one fine cathedral, a national college, with a library of 33,000 volumes in fourteen different languages, mostly an- cient, an observatory, eleven high-schools, besides a semi- nary, and two public schools in each ward (eight), fourteen hospitals, three lazarettos (both the schools and hospitals are very indifferent), seven printing-offices, three litho- graphic offices, a fine theatre, one manufactory of woolen cloths, and one of earthen- ware. It has a good market, sup- plied with fruits and vegetables of both the temperate and tropical zones. Population 60,000. The city of Bogota is distant from the nearest sea-port on the Atlantic (Car- thagena) about 700 miles, and from Buenaventura, on the Pacific, 800. From Carthagena the route is up the Mag- dalena Eiver by steam-boats to Honda, 700 miles distant, and from thence 100 miles to Bogota by mules : this is the usual route for merchandise and passengers from foreign ports to the capital. That from Buenaventura is long, dif- ficult, and expensive, much of the distance over the Cordil- leras having to be accomplished on mules or the backs of the natives. The roads throughout the republic are very bad. * The foregoing statistics of population, exports, etc., were made out from official data kindly furnished by Senor Raphael Pombo, Secretary of New Granadian Legation. NEW GRANADA. 211 The rivers of New Granada are numerous and impor- tant. The rivers Eio Negro, Caqueta, and Putumayo con- nect the eastern and southeastern portions of the republic with the Amazon. The Guaviare, the Meta, and their af- fluents, connect the east and southeast with the Orinoco. The Orinoco and the Amazon are connected at the bound- ary of New Granada with Venezuela by the Eio Casse- quiare. Commercially, the most important rivers are the Magdalena and its tributary, the Cauca, each over 1000 miles in length, and crossing almost the whole of the most fertile and productive portion of the republic from south to north. The Magdalena empties by three mouths into the Atlantic, and is navigated by steam-boats for 700 miles of its length. It is through this river and the Cauca that the principal part of the interior commerce of the country is carried on. At its western mouth is the port of Saba- nilla. Jt also communicates with the port of Carthagena by* a dike or connected chain of lagoons 92 miles in length, and navigated by boats and small steamers. The Kio Atrato, in the State of Antioquia, is about 300 miles in length, and is navigable for small vessels for about 150 miles. It empties into the Gulf of Darien. Besides these, emptying into the Atlantic, are the Chagres, in the State of Panama, and several other small rivers at present of little commercial importance. Emptying into the Pa- cific are the rivers Patia and San Juan, draining rich and extensive regions in the State of Cauca. The principal sea-ports of the republic of New Granada are Bio Hacha and Santa Martha in the State of Magda- lena, Sabanilla and Carthagena in Bolivar, and Aspinwall in the State of Panama, on the Atlantic coast ; and Panama in Panama, and Buenaventura and Tumaco in the State of Cauca, on the Pacific. Eio Hacha is an open roadstead. Yessels have to an- chor one and a quarter miles from shore, at which distance 212 REPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMERICA. large vessels can ride. Cargoes are landed by means of bongoes or canoes. This can only be done between 8 A.M. and 2 P.M., on account of northeast winds, which prevail almost all the year. The landing of cargoes is best effected during the summer season. The aspect of the town is very pleasing, as most of it is of recent construction. Its business is principally with the interior, through the Indians of La Goajira. Its prin- cipal exports are divi divi, dye-woods, hides, skins, and mules. Population between 3000 and 4000. Santa Martha, 90 miles southwest from Kio Hacha, has a good harbor, with the exception of being exposed to the northeast winds. Vessels are laden and unladen at the wharves. Merchandise is shipped from this port in large decked boats up the Magdalena Kiver, from the mouth of which it is distant about 40 miles. Besides the staples of the country, from this place are exported considerable num- bers of horses, mules, and cattle to Jamaica and other West India islands. It ranks as one of the first ports of New Granada. The city of Santa Martha is the capital of the State of Magdalena. There is a good hospital, a college, and a printing-office here. Population 4340. Sabanilla, at the western mouth of the Magdalena Kiver, is a roadstead. On account of a bad bar at the mouth of the Magdalena, goods have to be transhipped for their transportation up the river. The town is low and un- healthy. The residences of the principal merchants are at Baranquilla, twelve miles interior. Carthagena is the finest port and harbor and the chief naval arsenal of New Granada, and is connected with the Magdalena by the canal before mentioned, navigated by steamers of light draught. It is the principal depot for the products of the provinces watered by the Magdalena and Cauca Eivers, and exports sugar, cotton, coffee, tobacco, NEW GRANADA. 213 hides, specie, bullion, Peruvian bark, anise, balsams, dye- woods, etc., etc. The port is defended by two forts, and is the only port of New Granada on the Atlantic which has facilities for the repair of vessels. Vessels are laden and unladen by means of flat-boats and bongoes. The town is well fortified and well laid out, the houses mostly of stone. It has a massive citadel, several churches, a col- lege, various seminaries, and two hospitals. Population 10,000. There is a charity hospital at Carthagena, where sick American seamen are admitted at a charge of 40 cents per diem; accommodations very indifferent. The usual charge for storage of dry goods is about one per cent, on gross sales ; drayage from wharf to store, 28 to 30 cents per ton ; boat for landing, cartage to wharf, and storing at custom-house, about 11 cents per barrel. From the United States to this port are imported flour, codfish, hams, butter, cheese, glass-ware, earthen-ware, iron-mongery, pitch, tar, rosin, cordage, copper, and a great variety of articles from France, Spain, Italy, and Germany. The ships of the Koyal Mail Steam Packet Company, plying between Southampton, the West Indies, and the east coast of South and Central America, stop here month- ly with mails, passengers, and freight. See Itinerary of said Company, p. 158, et seq. Aspinwall, the Atlantic terminus of the Panama Kail- road, in the harbor of Navy Bay, is a free port. The shelter here for shipping is extensive, and the anchorage good. Nothing obstructs the entrance to the harbor for vessels of the largest draught. No pilots are required. The wharf and storage accommodations are ample. Eef- erence to connections of Panama Eailroad, page 145, will give the principal maritime movements of this port. Har- bor regulations, freight, wharfage, storage, light dues, etc., etc., will be found on page 88, et seq. Panama is a free port. This port derives its importance 214 KEPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMEKICA. from being the Pacific terminus of tlie Panama Eailroad. It is situated in the Bay of Panama, latitude 8 56' north, longitude 79 37' west. Its harbor is protected by a group of islands of considerable extent, distant about two and a half miles from the place of embarkation. The nearest se- cure anchorage for vessels of heavy draught is distant from shore one and three quarters of a mile, on account of coral reefs which extend for that distance out into the bay. The average tides at this point have a rise and fall of twelve feet,* and transportation between ship and shore is carried on at from one half to high tide by means of small steam- ers and large iron-decked launches, which discharge at the wharves of the Panama Eailroad Company. Storms are unknown in the harbor of Panama, and the transportation between ship and shore is performed at every season with perfect ease and safety. The group of islands before men- tioned furnishes the rendezvous for the vessels of the Pan- ama Mail Steam-ship Company. About nine miles to the southeast of the harbor is the beautiful and productive isl- and of Toboga, at which place is the rendezvous of the British Pacific Steam Navigation Company. At this place facilities are afforded for the repair of vessels of the heavi- * Table of the Tides on the Pacific at Panama. Atlantic at Aspinwall. May and June. Nov. and Dec. Aug. and Sept. Feet. 17.72 7.94 12.08 0.759 9.40 6.55 6.25 4.73 14.08 9.60 Feet. 21.30 9.70 14.10 0.140 10.12 9.40 6.73 6.26 17.30 12.40 Feet. 1.60 0.63 1.16 Least " " Average " " Mean tide of Pacific above mean High spring tide of Pacific above high spring tide of Atlantic Low spring tide of Pacific below low spring tide of Atlantic Mean high tide of Pacific above mean high tide of Atlantic Mean low tide of Pacific below mean low tide of Atlantic " " neat) tides ... NEW GRANADA. 215 est draught by means of a u gridiron," which is rented at reasonable rates to vessels of all nations. There is also at Toboga a large machine-shop, where repairs for the largest varieties of machinery are effected at moderate charges. No pilots are required in the harbor of Panama. Fresh provisions and water are furnished to shipping in abund- ance, and at moderate rates. Labor is cheap and easily procured ; wages from eight to ten reals per day. The city of Panama is a place of considerable commer- cial importance. Several mercantile houses of large capi- tal are established here, which collect from the interior and the North and South Pacific coasts the various staple pro- ductions of South and Central America for exportation over the Panama Kailroad to the United States and Eu- rope, and receive from thence large quantities of merchan- dise for the use of the interior towns and different ports in the Pacific. For the maritime commercial movements of this port, see connections of Panama Kailroad, page 145. Population of the city of Panama, 10,000. About sixty miles southeast from the port of Panama is the group of islands called " Islas de las Perlas," or Islands of Pearls, where a pearl-fishery is carried on, producing about $100,000 worth of a fine quality of pearls per an- num. Besides Panama, on the Pacific coast of New Granada, are the ports of Buenaventura and Tumaco, in the State of Cauca, from which are exported Peruvian bark, cocoa, to- bacco, hides, etc., to Panama, principally by the vessels of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, which touch at each bi-monthly. The trade of these ports is chiefly with Panama, receiving from thence merchandise from the United States and Europe suitable to the demands of the country. 216 REPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMERICA. POET REGULATIONS. The port regulations of the Eepublic of New Granada are such as are deemed necessary, as well in view of the general convenience and safety of vessels as to answer proper police and harbor discipline. There are no quarantine regulations at any of the ports of New Granada, and, consequently, no bills of health are required. Tonnage dues, port dues, pilotage, and visit fees are the same in all the ports of the republic, with the ex- ception of the free ports of Aspinwall and Panama. Every vessel pays $6 40 for the visit of the captain of the port, and $11 pilotage in and out, besides $1 60 for an inter- preter. Every vessel pays 40 cents per New Granadian ton for her capacity for the first 100 tons, and 20 cents for every ton over the same. There are no light dues, except at the port of Aspinwall, where light fees are charged by the Pan- ama Eailroad Company (see p. 143). The river naviga- tion of New Granada is free to flags of all nations, with the exception of vessels propelled by steam, the monopoly of which last is granted to certain individuals under contract with the government. Tariff of New Granada on Articles received from the United States 1855. Under this tariff weights and measures are, 1 pound = 1.014 pound ; 100 pounds = 4 arrobas ; 100 pounds = 10H pounds avoirdupois ; 1 vara = 33 English inches; 1 quintal = 101. 44 pounds; 1 kilogramme = 2 pounds; 1 miriagramme = 26 Ibs. 9 oz. 10 pwt. Money. 1 peso = 8 reals = 100 cents = $1.* Denomination of Merchandise. Beef ..... Beer, ale, porter, in bottles. in casks Brandy in bottles . " in casks.., Candles, wax Number, Weight, or Measure. 1.014 Ib. u 1 kilogramme, or 2J Ibs. 2i Ibs. Eate of Duty, free. $0 00* 00$ 16 16 40 * The French decimal system of weights, measures, and currency has been recently adopted by the New Granadian government. NEW GRANADA. 217 Denomination of Merchandise. Candles spermaceti Number, Weight, or Measure. 2| Ibs. <( same as beer. u 2^ Ibs. no importation. 2 Ibs. box of from 100 to 125 Ibs dozen, chairs, dozen, 1 lounge, 1 table, 1 miriagram. 26 Ibs. 9 oz. 2i Ibs. 26 Ibs. 9 oz. 1.014 Ib, it ream, 2| Ibs. M 26 Ibs. 9 oz. 2A Ibs. ( 10 per cent, additional to \ the duty on leather. 1.014 Ib. 101 Ibs. 26 Ibs, 9 oz. 2 Ibs. u tt It each, dozen, 2 Ibs. 21 Ibs. ( Rate of Duty. $0 20 02 free. 15 free, 40 free. 2 40 free. 60 6 00 12 50 5 00 free. tt 32 05 48 06 OOi 40 free. 12 free. u 001 72 50 02i 2 00 08 20 20 80 80 60 2 00 20 20 free. H 06 10 Cheese of all kinds Cider in bottles " in casks Codfish Copper manufactures of " in bars " manufactures of Flour, wheat . Glass window. Hams and bacon . . Household furniture .... Indian corn Lard Lead in bars and sheets Nails iron Oils whale and other fish Pitch Paper, writing * ' printing , Paints Pork Rice Rosin Soap, common " perfumed Shoes and boots leather . Sugar refined Tallow Tar Teas Tobacco unmanufactured ' ' cigars Havana " " others Umbrellas silk . . V\f ax raw white " " yellow ^W^ood boards pine .... Wines red " white... Goods imported into the Isthmus of Panama, although a part of the New Granadian Republic, are exempt from duty ; but if imported from the Isth- mus into New Granada, they are charged the regular duties as if coming from foreign'countries. K 218 REPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMEEICA. FREE LIST. Animals for breed ; beaver and other skins ; bee-hives and bees ; books, printed ; carts ; casks ; coal ; gold, silver, and platina, in dust ; implements for agriculture and mining; scientific and surgical instruments; medals; mills ; paintings and engravings ; paper for printing ; plants ; seeds ; stat- ues and busts ; steam-engines ; wool ; effects of embassadors, and equipage of travelers. PROHIBITED LIST. Arms ; obscene books and prints ; coin, defaced or clipped ; rum ; tobac- co, raw. Coasting trade free to foreign vessels. By virtue of the tariff act which came into force in New Granada, June 25, 1856, an increase of duty from 25 to 100 per cent, was imposed on near- ly every article of import, presenting an exception to the tariff modifications of almost every other commercial country for years past. The percentage increase of rates on the principal articles of merchandise, by virtue of this act, on the rates previously levied, has been noted as follows, fractions being disregarded : On the following articles the increase is 25 per cent. : steel, not manufac- tured ; needles and fish-hooks of certain descriptions ; indigo ; sugar-candy ; phials ; cocoa, manufactured ; cocoanuts ; padlocks of iron or brass ; can- dlesticks of glass or crystal ; brushes for the teeth, nails, etc. ; locks ; beer ; copper in sheets ; glasses, small, for liquors, cut or not ; knives for shoe- makers, etc. ; spurs, cast iron ; chisels ; bottles ; large forge bellows ; car- bine hooks ; buckles of metal ; watchmakers' tools ; common lead-pencils ; china-ware, small articles ; mirrors of certain sizes ; hammers of all kinds ; mills, small, and coffee-mills, etc. ; razors ; brown paper ; Jamaica pepper ; pipes of clay, for smoking ; dishes of glass or crystal ; lead in pigs, plates, balls, and shot ; metallic pens ; reins for bridles ; castors for tables, etc. ; tallow or stearine ; ink in powder, paste, or liquid ; glasses, watch, magni- fying, etc. On the following articles the increase is 26 per cent. : spirits from cane and its compounds, in those provinces in which this article is not a monop- oly ; spirits of turpentine ; scented waters of all kinds ; iron wire ; white lead in powder or oil ; raw cotton in bulk and in seed ; trunks with mer- chandise ; bottles and demijohns ; brooches for clasps, etc. ; shoe-brushes, etc. ; copper in bars or cakes ; compasses ; fine penknives ; spoons of tin, iron, copper, etc. ; large knives, and knives of ivory, etc., and balance-handle knives with forks ; thimbles ; snuffers ; screw-drivers ; fowling-pieces ; mir- rors with gilt frames ; tin, pewter, etc., in bars or cakes ; felts for hats ; nails, brads, etc. ; liquor cases ; saddle-trees ; toilet soap ; sealing-wax ; files ; ECUADOB. 219 linen manufactures, common ; mustard ; mainsprings for clocks and watches; paper, writing, hanging, etc. ; umbrellas of silk of all sizes ; pincers of all sorts ; pistols, common ; earthen pitchers, jars, etc. ; salt-cellars of glass or crystal; saws, pit and frame; scissors, small, etc. ; turpentine; zinc, manu- factures of. On the following articles the increase is 27 per cent. : cruet-stands ; nee- dles of wire, bone, etc. ; silver, brass, and piano wire ; door-bolts, small ; car- peting in pieces ; cotton manufactures ; curry-combs of iron ; plate-holders ; pin-cases ; chandeliers of glass or metal ; harness for two beasts ; trunks without merchandise; scales; bridle-bits; copper pumps for engines; silk brocade ; wax candles ; bedsteads ; sofas ; sieves of wire, silk, etc. ; clothes- brushes, etc. ; cranks of iron ; clothes-presses ; watch-guards ; swords ; small looking-glasses; iron pickaxes ; stirrups ;, pianos ; flasks; decanters; small buckles for braces, etc. ; whips; lawn; lace; fringes, etc., of linen; porce- lain ; manufactures of German silver ; saddles ; dial-plates ; razors in cases ; organs ; gilt paper-hangings ; cotton umbrellas ; pistols ; powder-flasks ; bot- tle-stands ; watches ; manufactures of silk of all kinds ; fine scissors ; gold braid; window-glass. On a certain description of needles, packing, sailmakers', etc., the increase is 100 per cent. ; on irons for carpenters' planes, etc., and small hand-bel- lows, 150; on fine gold wire, 154; and on sperm-oil, manufactured, 160 per cent. There is a decrease of duty on buttons of from 40 to 80 per cent. ; on chairs, of 68 ; augers, 36 ; common glass bottles, 40 ; gloves of buckskin, etc., 54 and 52 ; stirrup-leathers, 37 ; and on a few other unimportant ar- ticles. ECUADOR THE Republic of Ecuador, joining that of New Granada on the south, is situated between latitude 1 35' north and 5 50' south, and has its name from its position under the equator. Its eastern Boundary is formed by a portion of New Granada, Brazil, and Peru ; its southern by Peru, and its western by the Pacific Ocean. Estimated area 250,000 square miles. The three ranges of the Andes pass through the extent of the western part of the republic from north to south. As in New Granada, they abound in high fertile valleys 220 REPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMERICA. and elevated plains of great productiveness and salubrity ; they also shoot up into frequent lofty volcanic peaks, many of which are in active eruption : 17 of these have an average height of over 16,000 feet each, while several others range from 17,000 to 21,000 feet, their summits covered with per- petual snow. The lower valleys and plains yield all the sta- ples and fruits of the tropics, while* the higher produce the grains and fruits of the temperate zone, and afford the finest pasturage for numerous herds of cattle, horses, sheep, lamas, guanacos, and vicunas. Here the Peruvian bark, sarsapa- rilla, balsam of tolu, vanilla, canella, copaiva, gentian, and many other medicinal productions, are indigenous. There are also vast tracts of wooded lands, producing the finest timber for ship-building and cabinet-work, besides many excellent varieties of dye-woods, and numerous fibrous plants suitable for the manufacture of hats, cordage, cloth, paper, etc. The mineral productions of Ecuador are gold, silver, mer- cury, iron, tin, lead, copper, antimony, manganese, sulphur, and salt. Gold is abundant in the sands of almost all the rivers. From not being properly or efficiently worked, the produce from the mining interest of Ecuador is inconsiderable. The navigable rivers of Ecuador are numerous. Flow- ing into the Pacific are the Esmeralda, the Eio Guayaquil and its tributary the Daule (emptying into a gulf of the same name), and the Tumbez, forming a part of the southern boundary, all of considerable importance, draining rich and productive districts, and affording for a considerable por- tion of their extent an easy passage for the productions of the Pacific slope to the coast. Flowing westward into the valley of the Amazon and uniting with that river are the Putumayo, navigable for the greater part of its extent ; the Napo, navigable for steam-boats for 550 miles ; the Tigre for 230 miles ; and the Santiago, 400 for steam-boats, and ECUADOR. 221 120 more for smaller vessels. The Amazon, which forms a large portion of the southern boundary of the republic, is navigable for large vessels as far as the Eiver Tigre (about midway of the southern boundary), making the navigable portion of that river in Ecuador about 350 miles for steam- boats, and nearly 300 farther for rafts or balsas. The climate of Ecuador varies with the situation of differ- ent portions ; that along the Pacific coast is decidedly trop- ical and insalubrious; but as the slopes of the Andes are ascended, the temperature is decreased, until, reaching the valleys and plains at a height of nine or ten thousand feet, a perpetual spring prevails. The valley of Quito, in which the capital is located, is said to possess the most equable and delightful climate in the world, having a temperature vary- ing from 56 to 62 Fahrenheit. The year is divided into two seasons. In the elevated lands the winter commences in December and lasts until May, and is a season of clear skies, with a delightful temper- ature ; the summer begins in June and ends in November : during this season high winds prevail. In the low land the temperature is hot and moist, and in the winter incessant rains prevail. The population of Ecuador is estimated at about 800,000, composed of Whites of European descent 351,672 Indians, descendants of the "Quiches" 274,440 Indians of the Orient 135,000 Negroes 7,831 Mixed races 31,057 800,000 The whites are the principal landholders, traders, etc. The Quiches are mostly mechanics and agriculturists. The Indians of the Orient are wild, and warlike, and un- civilized. The prevailing religion is Eoman Catholic, and the open profession of no other is tolerated, but foreigners are not 222 REPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMERICA. molested on account of their religious faith. Education is at a low ebb. The chief city and capital is Quito, and is situated 9453 feet above the level of the sea, in a valley of the same name, 150 miles from Guayaquil, the chief sea-port. It is well built, and has several handsome squares, in one of which are the cathedral, the town hall, and palaces of the arch- bishop, etc. There are also in this city many churches and convents, a work-house, an orphan asylum, a university, and a large hospital. It has manufactories of coarse cotton and woolen goods, lace, hosiery, jewelry, etc., and a large trade in corn and other agricultural produce, which, with some of its manufactured goods, are sent by way of Guayaquil to Central America in return for indigo, iron,. steel, and to Peru in return for brandy, wine, oil, and precious metals, etc. There is said to be much wealth among its inhabitants. The markets are well supplied. Population 50,000. The chief sea-ports and harbors of Ecuador are Guaya- quil, Manta, and Esmeralda. Guayaquil, the principal port, is situated at the head of a bay of the same name, and at the mouth of the Eiver Guay- aquil, 50 miles from the sea. The harbor is excellent, and affords great facilities for ship-building, excellent timber being found within a few rods of the river, where building- yards of capacity for the largest ships have been construct- ed. The city consists of the old and the new town, and is intersected by five* small creeks which are crossed by wood- en bridges. The houses are mostly of wood. The principal edifices are a cathedral, several churches, two hospitals, and two colleges. The city is defended by three forts. It is unhealthy, with a mild, humid climate : mean annual tem- perature 88 Fahr. Population 22,000. Guayaquil is an important entrepot for the trade between Lima and Quito. The ports of Manta and Esmeralda are chiefly ports of export for silver ore and the produce of the country sur- ECUADOR. 223 rounding. The towns are of small size and of but little im- portance. The regular ships of the Pacific Steam Naviga- tion Company touch at Guayaquil on the 13th and 28th of each month, and a special steamer plies monthly between Guayaquil and Panama, touching at the ports of Manta and Guayaquil (see Itinerary, page 152). In 1856 the for- eign exports by the ports of Manta and Guayaquil were $2,333,141 50, of which $67,562 12 was silver and silver ore. The exports across the country to New Granada were about $300,000, and to Peru $100,000. The imports for the same year were, through the port of Guayaquil, $2,374,439 38 ; through Manta, $112,267 39 ; from New Granada, $40,000 ; and from Peru, 100,000. The chief exports consist of silver and silver ore, cacao, sombreros (or Panama hats), tobacco, cascarilla, sarsaparilla, agave fibre, tamarinds, caoutchouc, caries, coffee, hammocks, etc. ; the imports, textiles of cotton, wool, flax, and silk, wine, spirits, flour, hardware, paper, furniture, musical in- struments, etc., etc. Port Regulations at Guayaquil. There are no quarantine regulations. Tonnage dues, 25 cts. ; light money, 6J cts. ; hospital, 50 cts. per day. Vessels lie in the stream, and are loaded or discharged by means of rafts, $4 to $5 per load. The commercial charge for storage is 1 per cent. Mer- chandise is carried on by porters, who charge from 10 to 50 cents, according to bulk. Passengers, on landing, are obliged to present themselves at the police-office, where their passports are examined. Their baggage is examined at the custom-house, and no fees are exacted with the exception of those for a new passport on leaving the country. The currency is the same as in Mexico. Coin. 1 peso = 100 cents =$1 00. Weights. 1 quintal =4 arrobas of 25 Ib. 7 oz. Measures. 1 vara=33i inches English. 224 REPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMERICA. Tariff on Articles received in Ecuador fr