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When the Israelites of old approached their promised Canaan, "with a laudable curiosity to know what kind of a territory had been given to them for an inheritance, but for which they were yet to fight — they sent forth trusty men to spy out the land, and an- xiously awaited their report. Had there been found on that side of Jordan a book, which fully and truly described the plain and the ▼alley, the mountain and the high places of their future home, how eagerly would they have perused its descriptions of grandeur, and its scenes of peaceful repose ? Every American settler has his Jordan to pass, and his land of promise in the distance ; but with many advantages over those same old Israelites — he does not go with an army with banners — he has no Jebusite to drive away; scarce a solitary red-skin is left to add the picturesque to the landscape — all have disappeared before the marvellous approach of the pale faces. He goes to enter upon a peaceful heritage; and he may carry in his hand, as he sits in the rail car, or upon the lofty deck of the gallant steamer, a full and perfect description of the very spot towards which he is making his rapid journey. Is he a sturdy son of the soil, seeking for some fer- tile region where, by the strength of his lusty arms, he intends to compel the virgin earth, thus roughly wooed, to bring forth her first fruits? He can at once learn, by what soft murmuring stream, whose batiks are clad with verdure, he may, with the fairest pros- pect of success, erect his simple cottage, soon with industry and care, to become the extensive farm house, and the home of a pros- pering and happy family. Where are those glorious prairies, whose deep, dark mould, turned by the glittering ploughshare, in a single year returns a harvest which repays both for outlay and for labor? The description is before him, he has but to read and to rejoice. Is the traveller one whose object is to delve into the bosom of the earth in search of her more deeply hidden treasures? Inquirers have preceded him also, and he may learn where have already been discovered mines of mineral wealth, accessible, and wanting only the spirit of enterprise for their full and rich development. Does the merchant seek for a location where a prosperous business may be rapidly concentrated. He, too, may read of the situations in- viting trade and commerce, where the great inland sea bathes with its swelling floods, site after site, upon which ere long must stand the noble city, or where the Father of Waters sweeps by, bearing to the distant sea port the gallant steamer, which conveys the products of the land to exchange for those of other climes. Nor will the adventurer, who desires to lauuch his bark on a rising (ix) X INTRODUCTION. tide, and, by judicious investment in a growing country, to take ad- vantage of all that energy and enterprise -which point the road to fortune, seek in vain. He also can discover, where are to be found the new and growing village — the more ambitious city, where already town lots have assumed a value foot per foot — or the region whose rapidly increasing population is bringing the more distant farm land into immediate agricultural demand. All this has been done for-neighboring States, why shall it not be done for Wisconsin ? Why shall her glorious situation be permitted to remain unknown, until sought for with painful scrutiny upon per- haps an inaccurate, certainly upon an antiquated map? Why should her climate, second to none, in healthfulness, and already proved to be, along her northern shores, as pure as that of Upper Egypt, not be mentioned to the invalid, to whose suffering frame it would impart renewed health? Or her soil, whose depth and richness are such as to encourage industry and enterprise, not be brought to the attention of the agriculturist? May not the strong impressions, left upon the mind, in repeated journeys over the wide-spread commonwealth, be told for the bene- fit of others? The position of Wisconsin, is certainly second to that of no State in the American Union — of ample size, and embracing every variety of surface ; her boundaries seem prescribed by nature, and are suited to insure the most perfect development of her natural advantages. On the east, the waters of Lake Michigan bound her shores for a distance of nearly two hundred miles, affording many noble harbors, from which a commerce, sustained from her vast internal resources, must at no distant day be carried on. Lake Superior washes her northern shores for one hundred and fifty miles ; and there, enter- prise has begun to lay out cities, and has already discovered rich mines of mineral products, which, in quantity and quality, are un- equalled in the world. This Inland Sea affords a commercial high road to the Atlantic, which may yield competition, to the now rapidly growing facilities of railroad transportation. The Father of Waters rolls upon her western limits, giving a steam- boat navigation for a distance of three hundred and fifty miles within her borders. Has any other State, or any other country, a more ad- tageous position ? To this belongs an interior of diversified cha- racter, irrigated by numerous streams, which discharge their waters on either side into the Mississippi or Lake Michigan, and studded with lakes which add beauty, while they diffuse fertility around. A noble, free Constitution, equal laws, and the general diffusion of intelligence, afford to this favored State the brightest prospect of an early and successful development. If, to this end, our efforts shall, in any small degree, prove auxiliary, we shall feel fully paid for our voluntary, but well-intended effort. James S. Ritchie. August 1, 1857. PART I. WISCONSIN AND ITS RESOURCES. WISCONSIN AND ITS KESOURCES. CHAPTER I. THE EARLY HISTORY OP WISCONSIN, That part of onr country bordering on the Great Lakes was partially explored by the French missionaries and voyagenrs from Canada several years before the English cavaliers landed on Virginia soil, and many years before the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers on the rock at Ply- mouth. It was not the thirst of sordid gain that influenced the first white man who looked down into the clear waters of Lake Superior, or who gazed with awe upon the mighty Mississippi, rolling down its turbid flood from the unknown wilds above. The spirit of religious enthusiasm explored the basin of the great lakes and the valley of the Mississippi. To the Society of Jesus was given the task of civilizing and christianizing the red men of the Northwest. Its missionaries, inspired with a heroism that defied every danger, and endured every toil, sacrificed country, wealth, and station to bear the cross to these unknown tribes. In all history, ancient or modern, there is no Society that can be compared with this in the devotedness of its members. From Quebec they ascended the Ottawa, and, crossing the chain of small lakes, they preached the word of God in the 2 ( 13 ) 14 THE EARLY HISTORY hovels of the Algon quins on the bays of Huron. They sailed among the islands of the Manitouline Archipelago, and at Sault Ste. Mary, at the outlet of Superior, they proclaimed the gospel to the Chippewas ; entering that vast inland sea, they penetrated to its farthest extremity, where the St. Louis, white with the foam of its cataracts, enters the lake amid groves of pine. As early as 1624, Gabriel Sagard, a missionary, made his way to the Huron tribes on the borders of the lake of the same name. In 1634, the Jesuits Brebeuf and Daniel, and several others of their Order, visited the Huron tribes. On the ltth day of September, 1641, the Fathers Jogues and Raymbault embarked in their frail birch-bark canoes for the Sault Ste. Mary. They floated over the clear waters, between the picturesque islands of Lake Huron, and, after a voyage of seventeen days, arrived at the Falls of St. Mary. Here they found a large assembly of Chip- pewas. After numerous inquiries, they heard of the Na- dowessies, the famed Sioux, who dwelt eighteen days' journey further to the west, beyond the Great Lake. Thus did the religious zeal of the French bear the cross to the banks of the St. Mary and the confines of Lake Supe- rior, and look wistfully towards the homes of the Sioux in the valley of the Mississippi, five years before the New England Eliot had addressed the tribe of Indians that dwelt within six miles of Boston harbor. 1 Two traders passed the winter of 1659 among the Indians of Lake Superior ; and in the following summer they arrived at Quebec with sixty canoes laden with furs, and rowed by three hundred Algonquins. The narratives of these men excited a spirit of emulation in the breast of the Jesuits to bear the cross to the cabins of those distant tribes. Father Mesnard, an aged missionary, was selected 1 Bancroft. OF WISCONSIN. 15 to establish a station as a place of assembly for the sur- rounding nations. He immediately set out, and on the 15th day of October, 1661, he reached the bay which he called St. Theresa, and which may have been Keweenaw Bay, on the northern part of the State of Michigan. Here he resided more than eight months, surrounded by savages and a few French voyageurs. Being solicited by the Hurons, who had taken refuge in the Isle of St. Michael, to visit them, he departed with one attendant for the Apostles' Isles. On his way he strayed from his attendant, and was never seen again. Many years afterwards his cassock and breviary were discovered in a Sioux lodge, and kept as amulets by the possessors. Undismayed by his sad fate, a successor arrived — Father Claude Allouez — who embarked, in 1665, on a missionary tour to the far west, and on the 1st of October arrived at La Pointe, the great village of the Chippewas, in the Bay of Che-goi-mei-gon, Wisconsin. Here he met deputations from ten or twelve of the neighboring tribes, assembled in council to concert measures against their enemies, the Sioux. On being admitted to an audience, Allouez, in the name of Louis XIV., and as his viceroy, commanded peace, and offered commerce and alliance with France. His exhortations were received joyfully by the admiring savages, and soon a chapel rose on the shores of this bay, which attracted crowds of Indians, and the mission station of the "Holy Spirit" was founded. After residing about two years on the southern coast of Lake Superior, and connecting his name imperishably with the progress of discovery in the West, Allouez returned to Quebec, and was succeeded by the distinguished James Marquette in the charge of the mission of the " Holy Spirit." For several succeeding years these pious mis- sionaries were employed in converting the savage tribes, 16 THE EARLY HISTORY and confirming the influence of France from Green Bay to the head of Lake Superior. The country was made known by these enterprises, and, in 1671, Talon, the king's lieutenant of Canada, took mea- sures to extend the power of France to the utmost limits of the northwest. He selected Nicholas Perrot, a man well suited to his purpose, supplied him with a sufficient force, and sent him to the far west to propose a congress of the various nations the following spring at the Sault Ste. Mary. He visited all the northern tribes with whom the French at that time had any trade, and also the Miamis at the foot of Lake Michigan, where Chicago now stands. At this congress nearly all the nations of the north were present, by their delegates, and were met by the Sieur St. Lusson on the part of France, who was charged to take possession of all the country and receive them under the protection of its king. After an address by Perrot, and a declaration by St. Lusson of the act of taking posses- sion, and of the protection of the king, a cross of cedar was raised, and the " whole company of the French bowed down before the emblem of man's redemption, and chaunted to its glory a solemn hymn." Alongside of the cross a cedar column was erected, marked with the lilies of -the Bourbons. Thus, says Bancroft, " were the authority and the faith of France uplifted in the presence of the ancient races of America, in the heart of our continent. Yet this daring ambition of the servants of a military monarch was doomed to leave no abiding monument — this echo of the middle age to die away." M. Talon having been very active in extending the do- minion of France over the nations in the north and west, was anxious to discover the sources, direction, character, and outlet of a great river, which had often been mentioned to the French by the Indians, and which was supposed to OF WISCONSIN. IT reach the sea on the west, or fall into the Gulf of Mexico on the south. The river was called by the Indians Massa- sepo, or Missi-sipi, great river. For this purpose he sent Father Marquette, a Jesuit, and Joliet, a citizen of Que- bec, and several voyageurs, to ascertain the truth of these representations. In 1673, Talon, at his own request, was recalled, and was succeeded by Count de Frontenac, who continued the discoveries commenced by his predecessor. On the 10th day of June, of the same year, Marquette, Joliet, and their voyageurs, lifting their two canoes on their shoulders, walked across the narrow portage that divides the Fox river from the Wisconsin. " The guides returned," says the gentle Marquette, "leaving us alone, in this unknown land, in the hands of Providence. " Em- barking on the broad Wisconsin, they sailed down the stream, and on the 17th day of June "they entered hap- pily the Great River, with a joy that could not be ex- pressed;" they descended the river about sixty leagues below the mouth of the Wisconsin, and landed on the bor- ders of a beautiful prairie, where they discovered foot- prints ; leaving their canoes, they walked about six miles, and found a village of Indians, who called themselves Illinois. Thus Marquette and Joliet were the first white men who trod the soil of Iowa. In 1667, Robert Cavalier de La Salle, attracted by these reports, embarked to seek his fortune in New France, as this part of the country was then called. Encouraged by the French government, in 1679 he started from the vicinity of the Niagara river, with Father Louis Hennepin, a Franciscan missionary, two other priests, and thirty men, on board a small vessel of ten tons. " This vessel was named the Griffin, in honor of the arms of Frontenac, Governor of Canada," and was the first vessel of European 2* 18 THE EARLY HISTORY construction that had ever ploughed the waters of the great inland seas of America. The adventurers proceeded up Lakes Erie and Huron into Lake Michigan. After pursuing the voyage as far as Green Bay, La Salle sent the vessel back to Niagara with a rich cargo of furs, while he and his associates proceeded to the southern part of the lake to await her return. The ship, however, foundered on the lake, and nothing was afterwards heard of vessel or crew. At the head of Lake Michigan and the mouth of St. Joseph's river, "he constructed the trading house, with palisades, known as the Fort of the Miamis." Despairing of the return of his vessel, in 1680 he sent Father Hen- nepin with two voyageurs on a tour of discovery to the Upper Mississippi. They descended the Illinois' to its junction with this river, and ascended the mighty stream far beyond the mouth of the Wisconsin. After a short captivity among the Sioux, they returned by way of the Wisconsin and Fox rivers, to the French mission of Green Bay. It is not within the scope of this work to relate the events which led to the further discoveries of La Salle, and to his taking possession of the country on the lower Mississippi in the name of Louis XIV. After his voyage down this river he returned to France, and, in 1684, sailed from there Avith a large force to discover the mouth of the Mississippi, but was unsuccessful in his designs. After building two forts on the Gulf of Mexico, and garrisoning them with some of his men, he departed from the Bay of St. Louis, in the northwestern part of the Gulf, on a journey overland to his fort on the Illinois river. Before reaching this fort he was treacherously murdered by some of his followers. In the year 1619, the Sieur de Luth, a friend and com- OF WISCONSIN. 19 panion of La Salle, appears to have been in the neighbor- hood of Lake Superior, at Pigeon river, on the southern extremity of the lake, where he built a fort and trading- post, which is still maintained, under the name of Fort Charlotte. The efforts of these discoverers gave to the French the control of the entire northwest. But this state of affairs could not long continue. The fierce struggles between the French and English for the mastery in Europe were carried to America. The English colonists sided heartily with the mother country. For years the war was confined, on this continent, to predatory excursions : each party, connecting themselves with the savage tribes, met with various success. On the 13th day of September, 1Y58, the English army, under General Wolfe, scaled the heights of Abraham, and met the French, under the Marquis de Montcalm, before Quebec. The struggle was well contested, but, as usual, the indomitable bravery of the Anglo-Saxon race carried the day. The French were totally routed. Quebec sur- rendered, and with it the possessions of France in America fell into the hands of the English. A few years later the independence of the American Colonies was acknowledged by England. After peace was declared, that vast region we have described was included in the boundaries of the present United States, and was formed by the Ordinance of 1781 into the Northwest Ter- ritory. This territory embraced vast, uninhabited, and almost unexplored regions, stretching far beyond the utmost limit of civilization and government ; with the exception of a few trading posts, its only inhabitants were the Indians who roamed its wilds in pursuit of game, and who dis- puted, step by step, the advance of the white man. In 1830, the combined force of several tribes was met by the Americans under General Atkinson at the Bad Axe 20 THE EARLY HISTORY river, and totally routed. This was the last struggle they made on Wisconsin soil. Several treaties followed, by which they ceded their lands to the United States. In 1836, Michigan, until that time a part of the North- west Territory, was formed into a sovereign State, and admitted as one of the Union. A new territorial govern- ment was, at the same time, organized over Wisconsin, which included the lands lying between Lake Michigan and the Missouri river. At this period commenced a new era in the progress of the northwest. No sooner had a few daring pioneers set- tled in the wilderness, than the eager spirit of trade, ever on the watch for new fields of adventure, discovered the rich promise of gain offered by a region so wide and fertile. Commerce following the footsteps of the pioneers, came with the advance of the army of population. In 1838, a new territorial government was established over that portion of Wisconsin lying west of the Missis- sippi, called Iowa. The population of the two territories, at this time, was about 38,000. Such, however, were the inducements that the fertile lands and mineral resources of the Territory of Wisconsin held out to emigrants, that, in the year 1843, it is supposed that over 60,000 persons set- tled within her limits ; and from that time to the presen* her increase has been without a parallel in the history c* the United States. In 1848, Wisconsin was, by an Act of Congress, ad mitted into the Union, constituting the twenty-ninth State of the confederacy. Its limits were curtailed by making the St. Croix river the northwestern boundary, and giving that part of its land between this river and the Mississippi to the Territory of Minnesota. In regard to the origin of the name of the State, a communication to the Historical Society says : — " Wis- OF WISCONSIN. 21 consin derives its name from the principal river which runs centrally through it. The Chippewas on its head waters call the river Wees-kon-san, which signifies ' gathering of the waters.' They gave it this name on account of its numerous branches near its head concentrating into one stream, which afterwards runs so great a distance with but comparatively few tributaries to swell its current. The French voyageur called it Ouisconsin, the first syllable of which comes nearer to the sound of the Indian than does Wis. An attempt was made, a few years since, to restore the second syllable of this name to its original Indian sound by substituting k for c ; but this would not restore either the first or last. The attempt, however, was unpopular, and the Legislature solemnly decreed that the name should be spelled Wisconsin ; and this, probably, more from oppo- sition to the individual who attempted the restoration, than from correct literary taste, or any regard for the original Indian name." Before closing these remarks on the history of this State, a short narrative of one of its earliest American settlers may not be out of place. It was published by the Wis- consin Historical Society. " One of the earliest comers to the southwestern part of the State was Ebenezer Brigham of Blue Mounds, the oldest and undoubtedly the first permanent American settler within the limits of Dane county. He journeyed from Massachusetts to St. Louis in 1818; thence, in the spring of 1828, he removed to Blue Mounds, the most advanced outpost in the mines, and has resided there ever since, being, by four years at least, the oldest white settler in the county. The isolated positiou he thus settled upon will be apparent from the statement of a few facts. The nearest settler was at what is now Dodgeville, about twenty 22 THE EARLY HISTORY miles distant. Mineral Point, and most of the other dig- gings, wliere villages have since grown up, had not then been discovered. On the southeast, the nearest house was on the O'Plaine river, twelve miles west of Chicago. On the east, Solomon Juneau was his nearest neighbor, at the mouth of the Milwaukee river; aud on the northeast, Green Bay was the nearest settlement — Fort Winnebago not then being projected. The country at this time was part of Michigan Territory." In 1832, the Black Hawk war broke out, and caused great trouble and loss to the settlers. In 1836, the Territory of Wisconsin was or- ganized, and settlers arrived in great numbers. " In the twenty years' odd residence of Mr. Brighain in this region, what wonderful changes have passed before him ! For several years after his coming the savages were sole lords of the soil. A large Indian village stood near the mouth of Token Creek ; another stood on the ridge between the second and third lake, in plain view of our present location ; ' and their wigwams were scattered all along the streams, the remnants of their gardens, etc., being still visible. Then there was not a civilized village in the State of any considerable size. When the capital was located here, he was the nearest settler to it — twenty- four miles distant ! He stood on this ground before its selection as the seat of government was thought of, and from the enchanting beauty of the spot, predicted that a village would be built here. Fort Winnebago was com- menced in 1828, under the superintendence of Major Twiggs and Colonel Harney, and the protection it afforded greatly promoted and extended immigration. The rolling flood has now reached 700,000, hundreds of villages have sprung up, and everything is changed. From being him- 1 City of Madison. OP WISCONSIN. 23 self the sole proprietor of Dane, he now counts but one of some twenty thousand. Nothing remains of the In- dians but their graves. He has seen a savage people pass off the stage, and a civilized one come upon it, and all with a rapidity which must appear to him like a dream." CHAPTER II. FACE OP THE COUNTRY — AREA — POPULATION — CHARACTER OF THE SETTLERS — FOREIGN IMMIGRATION — CLIMATE. The surface of the State of Wisconsin is everywhere undulating ; not hilly, much less mountainous. It may be called a vast plain, elevated from 600 to 1500 feet above the level of the ocean. The highest of the Blue Mounds, on the line between the counties of Dane and Iowa, rises 1110 feet above Lake Michigan, and is, perhaps, the most elevated land in the State. Towards, Lake Superior the slope is very abrupt, and the rivers short, rapid, and bro- ken with falls. Such being a general description of its surface, the im- migrant will not look for Alpine scenery, or the bolder and sublimer features of the country of high mountain and deep valley. But in all that constitutes the beauty of the landscape, whether in the vestments of nature, or in those of capabilities which cultivation can alone develop, Wis- consin is without a rival. Among her ten thousand undu- lations, there is scarcely one which lifts its crown above its fellows, which does not disclose to the prophetic eye of taste a possible Eden, a vision of loveliness, which time and the hand of cultivation will not fail to realize and to verify. Wisconsin is situated between 42° 30' and 46° 58' north latitude, and between 87° and 92° 30' west longitude; it is bounded on the north by Lake Superior, on the east by Lake Michigan, on the west by the Mississippi and St. (24) AREA AND POPULATION. 25 Croix rivers, while on the northeast the rivers Montreal and Menoraonee separate it from the State of Michigan. It contains an area of 54,000 square miles, exclusive of the waters of Lakes Michigan and Superior. In 1840, its population was 30,945, and in 1850 it had reached to 305,538 ; an increase at the rate of nearly 900 per cent, during ten years. In 1855, according to the census reports, it was 552,109. The number of votes polled at the late Presidential election, was, in round num- bers, 120,000. With this basis for an estimate, the popu- lation in 1856 would not be less than 900,000.' The increase of the present year, up to July, 1857, and the foreign immigration, moderately estimated, would swell the present population to fully 1,000,000. The census of 1860 will astonish even the most sanguine — it will reach, if not exceed, a population of a million and a half, without attaining the standard of increase of the past two years ; whereas, our immensely-increased railroad facilities, and other public improvements, together with the flood-tide of emigration, would naturally lead us to expect even a large increase over the past two years. Wisconsin has been greatly favored in the character and 1 In the first district, three years ago, the whole vote for Con- gressman was 15,484. In 1856, the vote was 26,125 — an increase of 12,641 over the vote of 1854. In the second district, the whole vote, three years ago, was 19,903. In 1856 it was 42,337— an increase of 22,434 over the vote of 1854. In the third district, the whole vote, three years ago, was 23,880. In 1856 it was 49,248— an increase of 25,368 over the vote of 1854. Crawford, in the second district, received 8,259 votes more than Hoyt did in 1854, and Washburne received 14,184 more than he did in 1854. These returns show an extraordinary increase in the number of voters in Wisconsin during the past two years. 3 26 CHARACTER OF THE SETTLERS. enterprise of her first settlers. The intellect, education, and integrity, as well as the wealth, enterprise, and skill of the immigrants from the Middle States and from New England, have laid the foundation of a social character which will leave its impress on this commonwealth for generations to come. After filling up the lower counties, the tide of immigration is now setting strongly to the- fertile valleys of the Fox and Wisconsin rivers, the shores of the Mississippi, and Lake Superior. The newspapers published in the towns on the route of travel are full of accounts of the vast numbers of settlers going to the West and Northwest ; a large proportion of them preferring our favored State. " The cry is, still they come 1" By rail- ways and steamers, the immigrants are pouring in by hun- dreds and thousands, from the Eastern, the Middle, and the Southern States, bringing with them the qualities which have made their native States the admiration of the world. The liberal spirit of our constitution and laws invite them ; here is the place for the young man just starting in life, for the old man seeking to provide for his children, for "all sorts of men," in search of fortune, fame or wealth ; there is abundance of room, and to spare The day is not far distant when our increase and natural advantages will place us among the foremost States in the Union ! Besides the unparalleled increase in population from the older States, Wisconsin has been equally fortunate in the numbers, wealth, and material of her foreign immigration. In the year 1856, over 10,000 emigrants arrived in New York alone, on their way to settle in our State — showing that we are well and favorably known abroad by those who have means to come to America, and have knowledge enough to guide them in making a selection before leaving their European homes. If we estimate the value, skill, and capital of each of these emigrants at $100, we have an FOREIGN IMMIGRATION. 27 augmentation to our wealth, in a single year, of $1,000,000. When we reflect that the great majority of them are able- bodied men and women, accustomed to hard and perse- vering labor, many to different branches of mechanics, etc., and nearly all possessed of various amounts of capital, the estimated value of each to our State, which we have given, will appear far below the reality. If we estimate each one at $500, we have the large amount of §5,000,000 added to our wealth in a single year, from foreign immigration alone. We must not forget that numbers of foreigners arrived by way of New Orleans, and entered our State on the Mis- sissippi border; besides, great numbers arrived at the lake ports by way of Canada. From the quarterly reports, it would appear that the number of emigrants arriving at New York this year will equal, if not surpass, that of 1854. As we have now lines of steamboats, connecting with the Liverpool steamships at Quebec, there will no doubt be a very large increase this year from that source also. The following extract from the Report of the Railroad Commissioners of the State of New York, to the Legis- lature, is a propos : "The husbandman of Germany may harvest one crop on his native soil, migrate, plant and harvest another within a year, from his prairie farm beyond the Mississippi, meanwhile transferring himself and his family over one- fourth of the circumference of the globe. " The immigration has heretofore been mostly from the crowded fields and cities of Western Europe. In addition to this, we now have a massive migration of the Scandi- navian race — not of the pauper and enfeebled classes, but of almost entire communities — with vigor, wealth, and intellect, and with peculiar susceptibilities for assimilation with American habits, seeking a new home, where it can 28 INHABITANTS. reproduce its civilization. As the promised land to the Israelite, so seems to them the boundless West, with its genial climate, its fertile soil, and its ready access to the markets of the world." There is no reason to suppose that the future census of the now uninhabited portions of Wisconsin will not show the same ratio of increase as its past settlement has ; and, should such be the case, Wisconsin will, ten years hence, contain a population of over 1,800,000. Its aggregate increase of population, to the present time, from all sources, shows a relative advance far greater than that of any of the Western States. The statistics of emigration show that persons migrating usually seek a similar climate to the one they leave : hence it is that the population of Wisconsin is chiefly composed of immigrants from New England, New York, the northern portions of Pennsyl- vania and Ohio, and from Great Britain, Germany, and the northern States of Europe ; and it is but reasonable to suppose that a large majority of the migrating popu- lation of these States and countries will seek a home in Wisconsin. Should our railroad companies pursue the enlightened and liberal policy of the Illinois Central Railroad, in the management of the grant of public lands recently donated to them by Congress, we shall see a rapid increase of set- tlements and towns along their route in the northern part of the State, hitherto unsettled and neglected. But the number of inhabitants in Wisconsin does not exhibit their relative strength and power. Our population are nearly all in the prime of life. Yon rarely meet a woman past fifty years of age ; still more rarely as old a man ; and large numbers are too young to have had many children. The Milwaukee American says: — "It is a fact, noticed and remarked by nearly every Eastern visitor INHABITANTS. 29 to the "West, that no small amount of the business of the West and Northwest is conducted by youny men. Go where you will, in every city, town, and village, you will find more youthful countenances, elongated with the cares and anxieties of business pursuits, than those unacquainted with the peculiar circumstances attaching to western life and enterprise could be made to believe. Youth and energy are found conducting and managing our railroads and our banking institutions. Beardless youngsters are seen behind the desks — their desks — of our counting bouses, and in our manufactories, mixed up with our com- merce, and, in short, taking active parts in every field of business enterprise. A year's experience as a clerk, or an agent for others, gives him an insight into the modus operandi of 'making money,' and his wits are set in mo- tion, and his industrious ingenuity brought to bear in his own behalf, and he desires to 'go into business for him- self.' Frequently with a small capital, oftener with none, he engages in some branch of traffic, and in a few years is 'well to do in the world.' Such is the history of many of the young merchants and business men in our State, and we do not believe that a more enterprising, intelligent, and thorough-going business community can be found than that of Wisconsin. Youth, energy, and a laudable ambition to rise in the world, are characteristic elements of the AVest : they have made her what she now is, and give glorious promise of her future." In one of our village or town hotels, crowded with mo- neyed boarders — the merchants, bankers, and chief me- chanics of the place — two-thirds of them will be found to be between twenty-five and thirty years of age ; their wives, of course, still younger. Our population of 1,000,000 are equal in industrial capacity to at least twice that number either in Europe or in the Atlantic States. 3* 30 CLIMATE. The question is asked by thousands of persons in the older States, What are the natural capabilities and advan- tages of Wisconsin, which have swelled her population to so large a number, and increased her resources at a rate so far beyond those of any of the new States in so short a time ? Our answers to all these inquiries will be arranged under a variety of heads, and we will endeavor to satisfy those desirous of emigrating to, or investing capital iu, the West, that the State of Wisconsin presents superior advan- tages in climate, agriculture, commerce, and manufactures, to those of any State in the Union. Here, no one in health, who is willing to work, need be in want ; if the means do not present themselves in one section they do in another. In fact, our wide domain is waiting for those who will come and avail themselves of its proffered wealth and inde- pendence. The most important points in which the climate of Wis- consin differs from that of the Atlantic States may be briefly enumerated as follows : 1st. In its almost entire immunity from spring frosts and summer droughts. 2d. In its salubrity and comparative dryness. 3d. In the uniformity of the temperature of its winters. 4th. In adaptation to the growth of all kinds of grain and other crops. Wisconsin is universally conceded to be the healthiest of all the Western States. No consideration is, perhaps, more important to those seeking a country suitable for residence and enterprise, than the character of its climate. Health is the first, and comfort the next great object, in selecting a permanent abode. Tested by these qualities, Wisconsin presents prominent inducements. Its atmo- sphere is drier, more transparent and bracing than those of the other States on the same parallel. Its whole area CLIMATE. 31 is remarkably free from fevers and ague, which are the scourge of Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, and part of Iowa. The latitude of the State is between 42° and 46° 58', and thus, from geographical position, is not liable to objec- tions existing either north or south. It is a settled fact, that no nation has ever arrived at, or for any period main- tained greatness or wealth, unless, in the changes of climate in that nation, winter be found to exist. The latitude of Philadelphia is about 40° north ; yet, from position, the vicissitudes of climate are greater than with us. There the winter is somewhat shorter, and apparently concentrated ; yet its changes are destructive to comfort and health. New York is liable to similar but greater objections. With every change of wind there the temperature changes — this arises from the contiguity and antagonism of large bodies of land and water — and can never be averted. Our posi- tion, approximating the centre of the continent, exempts us from these changes ; and this blessing is manifested in general good health and a corresponding physical deve- lopment. We have no epidemics; no endemics; mias- matic affections, with their countless ills, are unknown here ; and the lustre of the languid eye is restored, and the paleness of the faded cheek disappears when brought into our midst. In spring no late frosts occur ; the whole country is clothed, as by magic, in robes of the greenest verdure, and a thousand varieties of wild flowers enamel the hill-sides and prairies. It is one of the loveliest sights in the world to walk out on the prairie as the morning sun, rising behind a distant swell of the plain, glitters upon myriads of dew drops. All nature — " Glowing -with life, by breezes fann'd, Luxuriant, lovely, as she came, Fresh in her youth from God's own hand." 32 CLIMATE. The heat of the summer months is not excessive ; the days are warm and bright, generally with a fine breeze at all times, from the west, southwest, and south, and the nights cool and pleasant. The temperature and duration of this season is adapted to perfect all the products natural to the latitude, and is not oppressive. Autumn in Wisconsin is the most charming season of the year. A soft haze rests on every object, mellowing the distant landscape, dreamy in the lingering sunshine of the dying year. " Her harvest yielded and her work all done, Basking in beauty 'neath the autumn sun." In winter the weather is uniform, and free from those sudden variations of temperature to which most other latitudes are subject ; owing to the stillness of the air, and the absence of moisture from the atmosphere, the cold is less perceptible than in more moderate climes, where the winds are high and the air raw and damp. Snow remains on the ground till the thaws of spring, but never falls to as great a depth as in the New England and Middle States. Navigation of the rivers is usually suspended by the 1st of December. The Mississippi closes by the middle of this month, and opens the latter part of March. Lakes Michigan and Superior generally close and open about the same time. From Mr. Seymour's work ' we quote the following : "It is, indeed, delightful in speculation to talk of con- stant spring, of perpetual verdure, of flowers in bloom at all seasons, of purling brooks never obstructed by ice, of a mild climate, where Jack Frost never has the audacity to pinch one's nasal proboscis or spread his white drapery 1 The New England of the West. CLIMATE. 33 over the surface of the earth ; but it is a problem, not yet fully solved, whether a tropical climate contributes more to one's happiness than the varying seasons of a Northern clime. " Nay, whatever doubt there is on the subject predomi- nates iu favor of a Northern latitude. Industry, intelli- gence, morality, and virtue, are exhibited more generally among the inhabitants of Northern latitudes than those of Southern. "If one's physical enjoyment is equally promoted by the bracing air of a cold climate, then, indeed, the argu- ment is in favor of the latter, for vigor of body and purity of mind are the most essential ingredients in the cup of happiness. The air of our winters is dry and bracing. When snow falls it usually remains on the ground several months, forming an excellent road either for travelling, business or pleasure. "The rivers are securely wedged with ice, rendering many portions of the country more accessible at that sea- son than at any other. An excellent opportunity is af- forded to the younger portion of the community for inno- eent amusements — sleighing, sliding downhill, and skating — amusements highly exhilarating, and promotive alike of health and happiness. These observations have been made because a greater value is often set on a mild south- ern climate, in reference to its capacity in affording the means of happiness or of health, than it really possesses." We have always made it a point to inquire of new set- tlers in Wisconsin how they liked the climate, and the answer invariably was, that it was far superior to that of the States they had left — whether Eastern, Middle or Southern. One emigrant says: — "As the result of my observations, I would state briefly — and in this I do but repeat a common sentiment — that I would much rather 34 CLIMATE. spend a winter in Wisconsin than in New York or Penn- sylvania. True, the weather is cold ; but it is of that set- tled, steady, clear character, which we here call ' bracing weather.'' No damp winds, no sloppy thaw, no uncom- fortable rains, but day after day the same unbroken field of snow, the same clear, bright sunshine, the same untrou- bled air. Winter here holds undisputed sway ; it is not a muddled mixture of all seasons, in which the breezy spring, the clear autumn, the sunny summer and the rigor- ous winter mingle and mix, and come and go together. You will understand the force of this distinction when I tell you that the first fall of snow in Wisconsin remains on the ground during the whole winter without a crust ; so free is the air from that dampness which, in other coun- tries, produce it. Who among you has not noticed the penetrating character of dampness in cold — its chilling, searching qualities ; or who, on the other hand, has not gone abroad on days of intense coldness, but when the air was dry and pure, and felt elastic, buoyant, and comfort- able. Such is a Wisconsin winter. I suffered less from the cold while here, than I have many times in Pennsyl- vania when the thermometer stood much higher. " The general opinion of physicians is, that consumption, that fearful scourge of the human race, which desolates so many thousand happy homes yearly in the Atlantic States, is not a disease of this climate ; where it occurs here, it being almost universally in those who have brought it with them, or in whom it is in a marked degree hereditary. It is also a singular fact, that persons suffering from asthma, or "phthisic," have been greatly relieved, or, in some in ■ stances, permanently cured, by a residence in this climate.* From a table of the last United States census, (an im- partial report, of course,) we obtain the following facts. This table gives the relative health, increase and deaths CLIMATE. 35 among the inhabitants of the several States, and illustrates that the number of deaths in ratio to the number of living is : in the State of Maine, 1 to IT ; Vermont, 1 to 100 ; Connecticut, 1 to 64 ; Illinois, 1 to 13 ; Iowa, 1 to 94 ; Wisconsin, 1 to 105; — and this is not only a fair com- parison among the above-named States, but, proportionate to the population, exhibits fewer deaths in Wisconsin than in any State in the Union. CHAPTER III. AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES, SOIL, ETC. Wisconsin offers more and better inducements for agri- culture than any other country can boast, and, owing to its geological formations, presents a great variety of soils. By the late census, and other data, it may be safe and fair to calculate that there are about one and a half millions acres of cultivated land in the State, which, as now occupied, constitutes about 50,000 farms, more or less tilled. Besides this one and a half millions acre's of improved land, there is, within the area of the State, above 30,000,000 acres of land, of which at least 20,000,000 is suitable to be converted into productive and pleasant farms — enough land to make two millions additional farms — waiting for occupants, and may be purchased at low prices, ranging from $1.25 to $60 per acre. In regard to the value of improved lands in the new States, the same report shows that the average value is : in Illinois, $7.99 ; in Iowa, $6.09 ; in Texas, $1.09 ; and in Wisconsin it is $9.58 — a very fair show for a young State. And by looking carefully through the tables, we find that the average value of products per acre exceeds that of the other States named, in about the same proportion that the land exceeds theirs per acre in value. Draw a line from Manitowoc to Portage, thence directly to the Falls of St. Croix, the farming lands lying south of this line, and comprising nearly one-half the State, are not equalled, in all respects, as farming lands, in any State (36) AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. 37 of the Union ; on which an industrious farmer can raise from 30 to 50 bushels of wheat, or from 50 to 80 bushels of corn to the acre. North of this, a belt of hard timber extends east and west 150 miles on the latitude of Stevens Point — from 50 to 100 miles in width. The soil of this region is fertile, but the timber is its present wealth. Un- like the prairies, building material for fences is convenient, and no country produces better Or more wheat — the staple crop. The indigenous and cultivated grasses flourish ad- mirably, and, combined with numerous streams, afford the best facility for grazing. This peculiarity (abundance of water) pervades the entire State, and presents inducements for cattle-growing not found in the other prairie countries, where running water is found at distances too great for cattle. The prairies of Wisconsin are not as extensive as those of Illinois, Iowa or Minnesota, but, as they are skirted and belted by timber, are adapted to immediate and profitable occupation. The soil of the prairies is a rich, dark vege- table mould, varying from two to eight feet in depth, ca- pable of producing, in the greatest profusion, anything which will grow in these latitudes, and inexhaustible in its fertility. For centuries, the successive natural crops, un- touched by the scythe, have accumulated matter on the surface-soil to such an extent, that a long succession, eveu of exhausting crops, will not materially impoverish the land. Dr. Owen says : " The dark mould which pre- vails over a large proportion of Wisconsin, so rich in genie, has proved itself an excellent and productive soil, especially adapted to the culture of every species of culi- nary vegetables and small grain, and producing, probably, as good Indian corn as the State of New York, or any other State of the same latitude. " The power of absorption of these lands is generally in 4 38 AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. proportion to their amount of genie and the lightness of the soil. In general, the more finely the parts of a soil are divided, the better they absorb water. " This is an important item to the cultivator. Lands possessing this power in a considerable degree, readily absorb the dew in dry weather ; and in wet weather do not suffer the superfluous rain to accumulate on the surface. "A striking feature in the character of the Wisconsin soils, as an analysis shows, is the entire absence, in most of the specimens, of clay, and the large proportion of silex. This silex, however, does not commonly show itself here in its usual form — that of a quartzose sand. It appears as a fine, almost impalpable, siliceous powder, frequently oc- curring in concreted lumps that resemble clay ; and, in- deed, it was often reported to me incorrectly as clay — an error ultimately detected by analysis. "This almost impalpable powder, the chief constituent and almost sole residuum of the Wisconsin soils, is so highly comminuted that, when examined under the microscope, for the most part its atoms present no crystalline or even granular appearance. " This fine siliceous residuum, after being boiled with strong aqua regia, lost but ten per cent., of which but five per cent, was alumina. " This absence of any material per centage of clay in the soils under consideration, prevents the rolling lands from washing away ; and it imparts to the streams a crystal clearness, which even after heavy rains is hardly disturbed. The appearance of these transparent rivulets, flowing over a soil which, when moistened by rain, is often of an inky blackness, arrests, by its singularity, the eye of a stranger. "Whether the lack of clay in the Wisconsin soils will render them less durable may be doubted. A coarse sandy soil, the open pores of which suffer the rain to percolate, AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. 39 carrying with it the nutritive genie from the surface, re- quires an admixture of clay before it can become rich and durable ; but the minute-grained siliceous powder of this district forms a species of soil entirely different from the above — one which, without any such admixture, retains moisture and genie in much perfection. " I believe it to be peculiarly adapted to the growth of the sugar beet, which flourishes best in a loose, fertile mould, and which has of late become, in some European countries, an important article of commerce. It is esti- mated that the amount of beet sugar manufactured in France during the year 1840 was 100,000,000 pounds, and in Prussia and Germany 30,000,000 pounds. In the west- ern part of Michigan, in as northern a latitude, and in a climate similar to that of Wisconsin, 240,000 pounds are reported by the papers of that State (how accurately I know not) to have been manufactured the same year." In regard to the soil of the mineral regions, Dr Owens also says : — "It is a common, and usually a correct re- mark, that mineral regions are barren and unproductive. 'If a stranger,' as Buckland has well expressed it in the opening of his Bridgewater Treatise, ' if a stranger, land- ing at the extremity of England, were to traverse the whole of Cornwall and the north of Devonshire, and, crossing to St. David's, should make the tour of all North Wales, and passing thence through Cumberland, by the Isle of Man, to the southwestern shore of Scotland, should proceed either by the hilly region of the border counties, or along the Grampians, to the German Ocean, he would conclude, from such a journey of many hundred miles, that Britain was a thinly-peopled, sterile region, whose principal inha- bitants were miners and mountaineers.' " Xot so the traveller through the mining districts of Wisconsin. These afford promise of liberal reward, no 40 AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. less to the husbandman than to the miner ; and a chemical examination of the soils gives assurance that the promise will be amply fulfilled. " I may add, that I know of no country in the world, with similar mineral resources, which can lay claim to a soil as fertile and as well adapted to the essential purposes of agriculture." 1 In this work, the writer wishes more particularly to call the attention of settlers to the northern part of Wis- consin. For years, valuable lands in this part of the State were offered for sale at the Government price ($1.25 per acre), but with very rare exceptions, here and there, they remained without purchasers. This neglected region con- tains some of our most valuable agricultural lands, and now offers greater inducements to settlers than any other part. The new railroads, already commenced from Milwaukee, through our eastern and western borders, to Lake Supe- rior, have received from Government over 2,000,000 acres of these lands to aid in their construction, and while they open the country to agriculturists, will doubtless follow the example of the Illinois Central Railroad, in offering their lands, on easy terms and on long credits, to actual settlers. Let it be remembered, that there are several millions of acres in this part of the State open to pre-emption. A great mistake prevails in the Northern and Eastern States among those who are preparing to come to Wis- consin. Congress granted a large amount of lands to rail- roads, and all the Land Offices have been closed, so that no lands can be sold ; and, therefore, settlers abroad infer that they cannot get land, except what they purchase at second-hand of those who secured their laud before the closing of the Offices. 1st. We ivish to inform every one, that the closing of 1 Geological Explorations in Wisconsin. AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. 41 the Land Offices does not prejudice Vie rights of per- emption in the least. 2d. The Railroad Grant, in its terms, respects all pre- emptions made, up to the time the roads are actually located. After the location, pre-empters are excluded fmm pre-empting odd-numbered sections only, within six miles of either side of the roads as located. 3d. The closing of the Land Offices operates as a benefit to the poor man ; for it extends the time within which he is required to prove np and pay for his land. 4th. The closing of the Land Offices teas intended to operate in those districts only where large bodies of public lands were subject to private entry. It was done to pre- vent speculators from taking up all the jyublic lands along the line of the proposed roads, to the exclusion of the actual settler. We repeat, the right of pre-emption is not thereby affected until the roads are actually located. The Act of Congress says, that the railroads shall have every alternate section of an odd number ; that is, Nos. 1, 3, 5, 7, &c, for six miles each side of their tracks, of the land not sold. Therefore, all the sections of an even number are virtually open to actual settlers, because settlers are perfectly safe ; and at the land sales no speculator or other person will bid against a settler, and he can get his land at Government prices ; but the Government price for all lands within six miles of the railroads will be $2.50 per acre. If they wish to go farther off than six miles from the proposed railroad lines, then the price of the lands will be $1.25 per acre? How soon the railroad companies will get through selecting their lands, and the offices again be open, no one can tell — possibly not before the close of the summer. The Government will give at least two months' public notice of the time of sale. There is not the least doubt but that 4 * 42 AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. now is the best opportunity that will ever offer itself in the West to the laboring man of small means, taking into con- sideration timber, climate, and soil. We would again say to those who wish to actually locate upon and improve the soil, Noiv is the time to make a "claim." Do not be induced to delay settling here until a few hundred dollars have been added to your earnings, with the belief that it will give you a better start. You can do better now with two hundred dollars -than you will be able to do, two years hence, with one thousand. These lands are daily increasing in value, and those who would advance with them should embrace this " golden oppor- tunity." The following description of the lands in the valley of the Chippewa river, is from the pen of an intelligent and observing traveller, who recently made a personal exami- nation of that country. These lands are open to settlers at Government price ; in fact, all lands lying in the northern part of the State. "The soil, for the most part, is a deep rich sand loam, and the face of the country very much as we have pictured the Hunting Parks of Old England. About every three miles, there is a succession of small streams starting from the ridges, half a dozen miles back, and making straight- way to the Chippewa. The ground between is nearly level, and interspersed with 'gems of prairie,' 'oak open- ings,' and timber, with here and there specks of hay marsh, just enough to meet the wants of new settlers. In short, the country is about as near right as any^jolly husbandman could ask from the hands of Nature. There is no fact which gives more value to these lands, than the general healthfulness of that portion of the country in which they are situated. Well watered, possessing a pure and dry atmosphere, with no local causes to produce fever, ague, AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. 43 or sickness, in any of the numerous forms often exhibited in the more southerly parts of the Mississippi valley, it is undoubtedly as healthy a region as can be found on the continent. It may be supposed, by some, that these lands are too far north to be well adapted to agricultural pur- suits. The supposition is entirely erroneous. None of the lands are farther north than the northern parts of the States of Vermont and New York, nor as far as a large part of Maine, New Hampshire, and nearly the whole of Canada, while the more southerly portions of them are in the latitude of the southern part of Vermont and central New York. But it is well known that latitude is not alone the index of climate. London is in latitude 51° 30', the same as the latitude of the upper or southern end of Hud- son's Bay, and of Queen Charlotte's Sound, on the Pacific. Paris is in the latitude of the north shore of Lake Superior and of the Pembina settlement. Florence, where it is almost perpetual summer, is in the latitude of Sheboygan and of Portland, Maine, while Berlin is further north than a large portion of the coast of Labrador. But, on the American continent, it is well known that the climate on the Pacific coast is several degrees milder than on the At- lantic. The same causes operate to produce the same result as we recede from the Atlantic and approach the Pacific. The isothermal line is continually bearing north of latitudinal lines; and it is well known that the climate of St. Paul, in Minnesota, in about latitude 45°, is as mild during the winter months as that of Massachusetts and central New York. St. Paul and Buffalo, Hudson and Albany, Chippewa Falls and Rochester, are isothermal." All the arable lands in the area above described will be intersected by the St. Croix and Lake Superior Railroad, and are peculiarly adapted to the growth of wheat, oats, barley, buckwheat, potatoes, and all other esculent roots. 44 AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. Indian corn, also — especially of the yellow flint variety — is produced in great perfection. The whole country is excellently adapted to grazing. It is well watered by nu- merous springs and small creeks, of pure limpid water ; and small transparent lakes, with picturesque shores, are found in many places, which, as well as the creeks, abound with fish. The raising of cattle and sheep in this region will prove to the farmer a profitable business, and, if viewed solely with reference to its advantages for agricultural pur- suits, there can be no reason why, when it shall be supplied with railroad facilities, it will not become as densely peo- pled as any part of the State. 1 Every description of husbandry suitable to the latitude may be successfully prosecuted. The difficulties experi- enced in the Eastern, or in Western timbered States, in bringing lands under cultivation, are unknown here; the soil is easily turned over, at the rate of two acres to two and a half a day, by a heavy team of horses, or two yoke of oxen, or it may be contracted to be worked, at from $2 to $3 per acre ; and an active practical man can readily cultivate ten acres here as easily as one in the Eastern or Middle States, taking them as they run, while the yield per acre will be infinitely greater. Wisconsin is one of the largest grain-producing States of the Union. As an example, the statistics of the follow- ing counties, for the year 1850, may be cited. Population. No. Acres cleared. No. Farms. Bush.Wheat. Milwaukee 39,077 32,623 985 60,096 "Waukesha 19,174 104,439 1,703 331,156 Racine 14,973 64,338 971 281,149 Kenosha 10,732 50,938 914 318,051 These four counties, with a population of 83,956, had 1 Report of the La Crosse and Milwaukee Railroad Co. AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. 45 for exportation not less than 500,000 bushels of wheat, which, at 50 cents per bushel, would be $250,000. Be- sides, there were large quantities of Indian corn, oats and barley raised. Considerable attention has been lately at- tracted to flax, and the quantity raised the same year, in these counties, was 58,304 pounds. It must not be supposed that the farmers of Wisconsin have been turning their attention exclusively to grain ; they have also engaged in the business of stock raising, of the dairy, and of wool growing. In the above-mentioned counties, the quantity of sheep and wool raised, as reported in the census, was as follows : Shoep. Lbs. of Wool. Milwaukee 4,356 8,330 Waukesha 12,430 26,042 Racine 10,093 20,223 Kenosha 12,767 33,439 A large number of sheep were brought into Wisconsin during the year 1851, from Ohio and Michigan. The produce of wool for the year 1853 may safely be estimated at 175,000 pounds, and in 1857. the united products of these four counties will not be less than 700,000 pounds. These counties may be taken as a fair basis, in order to form an estimate for the balance of the State. If we take the estimate of the census of 1850 — 20,000 farms — as un- der cultivation, the amount realized by farmers on wool and wheat alone would be, at present prices, nearly $3,000,000. But when we consider that the population then was 305,538, and now it is about 1,000,000, it is manifest that no correct estimate can be made, further than that the agricultural products have increased in the same ratio as the population. The steady and exclusive prosecution of agriculture on 46 AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. the fertile soil of the mineral districts, has the advantage of an active home market and ready pay. There are large tracts of the very finest lands in these districts which have been neglected, from the absorbing nature of the mining business, and may be purchased at very low rates. In proportion to the growth of the towns and villages, the demand for the products of the soil increases, presenting a remunerative home market to the farmer. The surplus of his corn, wheat, oats, &c, command fair rates at the near- est railroad depot, as soon as delivered. On some of these lands it is not uncommon to raise from 80 to 100 bushels of corn to the acre, of wheat 40 to 60 bushels, and every kind of vegetables in the greatest abundance. The price of wheat during the year 1856, was, on an average, $1.25 per bushel. At these prices, is it any wonder that the far- mers in Wisconsin are so rapidly accumulating wealth ; or that, with such inducements to agriculture, so many are flocking here every year ? Let every farmer who has to tug and toil on the sterile and rocky soil of New England, and some of the worn out Southern States, to support his family, judge for himself, whether it is better to emigrate to Wisconsin, or stay where he is ; whether it is better to struggle for existence, and feel the cold grasp of poverty, or roll in plenty and live at ease. Let those who reside in cities, and cannot find profitable employment, come here, and raise their food out of the bosom of the earth. Thousands have made the experi- ment, and to-day are among the wealthiest and most re- spected of our citizens. We might present to our readers the testimony of hun- dreds of farmers, in regard to their experience, the capa- bility of the soil, and the amount raised to the acre, but our limited space forbids. In the second part of this work, AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. 47 on Lake Superior, will be found some interesting reports from farmers in the northern part of the State, bordering on the lake. Persons desirous of settling here should not form their opinions of the capability of Wisconsin, in an agricultural point of view, upon the figures given in the census reports of 1850, as if they furnished a fair criterion by which to judge. It must be borne in mind, that since those statis- tics were made up, nearly five hundred miles of railroad have been built in the State ; that its population has in- creased from 305,538, to at least 1,000,000 ; that the num- ber of acres now under cultivation is at least double that of 1850 ; that all the recent improvements in agricultural implements are in general use ; and farmers stimulated to industry by the late unprecedented high prices. They also must not forget that, with all this increase of popula- tion, hardly one-fourth of the arable lands of the State are under cultivation. The conclusions drawn from the census reports of 1850, would be of the most fallacious character, and do great injustice to the resources of our noble State. CHAPTER IV. GEOLOGY OF WISCONSIN — ROCKS — LEAD — COPPER — ZINC — IRON — BUILDING STONE — ANTIQUITIES. The greatest source of wealth of the State of Wisconsin is undoubtedly its vast mineral possessions. The mines on the south shore of Lake Superior are believed to be equal in richness and extent to those of Michigan, which pro- duced, in 1856, upwards of ten million pounds of copper, and twenty thousand tons of iron. Part of this region has been recently explored, and the most incredible quan- tities of copper, mixed with silver, have been found ; also zinc, in vast deposits, among the copper. Wisconsin is equally rich in iron ; but, like the zinc, it is a mere drug. Indeed, for some unaccountable reason, it is thought better to import from England into this country millions of dol- lars' worth yearly, when we have literally mountains of it here in every direction, and of a much superior quality. As the northern part, bordering on the lake, is now being rapidly settled, new discoveries are made daily, and it is a matter of great importance that the State should order a new Geological Survey, to determine the extent of its min- eral wealth, for the benefit of the agricultural interests, by disclosing the different characters of the soil, and their adaptability to certain crops The lead region of Wis- consin contains mines which are supposed to be inex- haustible, and decidedly the richest in the known world ; it is confined principally to the southwestern part of the State. Many other minerals are also found, and good (48) ROCKS. 49 marble and building stone are abundant in almost every part. The mineral treasures that underlie our soil are, as yet, but in the infancy of their development ; we are 'situated at the head of the two great natural channels of internal navigation, which penetrate to the heart of the continent— the Mississippi on the one hand, connecting us with the Gulf of Mexico ; and the Lakes upon the other, leading to the Atlantic. By each of these routes, the greater portion of the produce of our mineral districts finds its way to market. ^ There are several very accurate and complete descrip- tions of the geology of Wisconsin, and, instead of attempt- ing to give an account of it, I will embody, in this part of my work, the official reports of Dr. Owen, already pub- lished, which include a large part of the State. My own observations of the country, geologically, being very cur- sory and partial, and the survey of Dr. Owen, under the orders of Government, furnishing a very satisfactory de- scription of the country, I subjoin it entire. " Throughout the Western States, generally, the second- ary formation prevails, covered up in various locations, sometimes to a considerable depth, by recent alluvial and diluvial deposits. ^ " This secondary series of rocks comprehends various sub- divisions of distinct character, and invariable succession, which, in their turn, have been again subdivided. " Of these groups, the mountain limestone particularly claims our attention, as almost all the rocks of Wisconsin are referable to that division. " In this State these subdivisions generally vary in thick- ness from one hundred to one thousand feet, with the ex- ception of the cliff limestone, which, in some districts is 5 50 GEOLOGY OF WISCONSIN. hardly distinguishable, and, in general, does not exceed one hundred feet in thickness. " Now, this cliff limestone, so sparingly developed else- where, swells, in the Wisconsin lead region, into the most remarkable, most important, and most bulky member of the group. It attains to a thickness of upward of five hundred and fifty feet, while the underlying blue limestone (which, in Ohio, is usually from eight hundred to one thou- sand feet in thickness) shrinks, in many places, to less than one hundred feet, and, in others, seems wholly wanting ; while, at the same time, the black slate, commonly found above the cliff limestone, seems also deficient. "The general geological character of the country ex- plored may, then, be thus briefly summed up. It belongs to that class of rocks called, by recent geologists, secondary, and, by others, occasionally included in the transition series. It belongs, further, to a division of the class of rocks described, in Europe, as the mountain limestone, or, sometimes, as the carboniferous, metalliferous, or encrin- ital limestone. And it belongs, yet more especially, to a subdivision of this group, known popularly, where it oc- curs in the West, as the cliff limestone. " This last is the rock formation in which the lead, cop- per, iron, and zinc, of the region under consideration, are almost exclusively found ; and its unusual development, doubtless, much conduces to the extraordinary mineral riches of this favored State. " In the northern portion of the district surveyed, an interesting and somewhat uncommon feature in the geology of Western America presents itself. I refer to the strata (of considerable depth) which crop out along a narrow strip of the northern boundary-line of this district, and which are chiefly observable in the bluffs on both sides of LEAD. 51 the Wisconsin river, whence (Schoolcraft and others say) they extend north even to the Falls of St. Anthony. " The actual dip of the rocks throughout the district, according to the observations made by Dr. Locke, is from nine to ten feet per mile, but it is occasionally much greater. " The importance of observations on the dip of the rocks, forming, as they do, the materials to calculate the thickness of each stratum at any given spot, is very great. Indeed, such observations are indispensable, before an accurate esti- mate can be formed of the value and extent of a mineral tract. They indicate, with much fidelity, the depth to which, at different points, a productive vein of ore -is likely to extend. 1 ' LEAD MINES. " The lead region lies, as will be remarked, chiefly in Wisconsin, including, however, a strip of about eight town- ships of land in Iowa ; and including, also, about ten townships in the northwestern corner of Illinois. The portion of this lead region in Wisconsin includes about sixty-two townships. " This lead region is, in general, well watered ; namely, by the Peccatonica, Apple, Fever, Platte and Grand rivers, the head waters of Blue river and Sugar creek : all these streams being tributaries of the Mississippi. " The northern boundary of the Wisconsin lead region is nearly coincident with the southern boundary-line of the blue limestone, where it fairly emerges to the surface. No discoveries of any importance have been made after reach- ing that formation ; and when a mine is sunk through the cliff limestone to the blue limestone beneath, the lodes of lead shrink into iusignificance, and no longer return to the miner a profitable reward for his labor. 52 GEOLOGY OF WISCONSIN. "It will also be remarked, that the designated lead region is almost exclusively confined to the northern half of the cliff limestone formation of Wisconsin, which por- tion is occupied by its middle and lower beds. The upper beds (lying in the southern portion of the district) do not, as already intimated, furnish productive veins of lead ore. The crevices in these upper strata seem to be less numer- ous, and either empty, or filled with iron ore (hydrated brown oxide), or calcareous spar (crystallized carbonate of lime), to the almost entire exclusion of veins of lead. "All the valuable deposits of lead ore, which have as yet been discovered, occur either in fissures or rents in the cliff rock, or else are found imbedded in the recent depo- sits which overlie these rocks. These fissures vary in thickness from a wafer to even fifty feet ; and many of them extend to a very great, and at present unknown depth. "Upon the whole, a review of the resources and capa- bilities of this lead region, taken in connection with its statistics (in so far as it was possible to collect these), in- duces me to say, with confidence, that ten thousand miners could find profitable employment within its confines. " If we suppose each of these to raise daily one hundred and fifty pounds of ore, during six months of each year only, they would produce annually upwards of one hundred and fifty million pounds of lead — more than is now fur- nished by the entire mines of Europe, those of Great Britain included. " This estimate, founded (as those who have perused the foregoing pages will hardly deny) upon reasonable data, presents, in a striking point of view, the intrinsic value and commercial importance of the country upon which I am reporting — emphatically the lead region of Northern America. COPPER. 53 " It is, so far as my reading or experience extend, deci- dedly the richest in the known world. "COPPER ORE. " The copper ore of "Wisconsin forms an item in its mineral wealth, which would be considered of great im- portance, and would attract much attention, but for the superior richness and value of the lead, the great staple of the State. "This ore occupies, in the district under examination, the same geological position as the lead ore ; originating in the fissures of the cliff limestone. Discoveries of cop- per ore have, indeed, been made on a sloping hill-side near Mineral Point, within three or four feet of the surface ; and was there found disseminated and imbedded in an ochreous earth. 1 But, on following this deposit to the opposite side of the ravine (on section twenty-two, township five, range three east of the fourth principal meridian), the copper ore was traced into a orevice, and a regular vein has there been worked, to the depth of thirty or forty feet. The pieces of copper ore raised on this spot commonly weighed from a few ounces to ten or twelve pounds ; and one mass thence procured was estimated at five hundred weight. "The course of this copper vein is from southeast to northwest ; and if this line be continued either way, from the discoveries at Mineral Point, it will strike, almost ex- actly, the discoveries of copper ore northwest on Blue river, and southeast on the Peccatonica — a proof that the copper ore is not a superficial and vagrant deposit, but 1 This earth frequently contains particles, more or less numerous, of copper ore, which is then popularly termed "gozzin," and em- ployed as a flux in the copper furnaces. The gozzin of Wisconsin yields, by analysis, from six to nine per cent, of pure copper — a large per centage for such ore. 5* 54 GEOLOGY OF WISCONSIN. exists in veins of uniform bearing ; and that these veins are continuous, and, in all probability, extensive. " The copper ore of this region compares very favorably with that of Cornwall. An analysis of a selected specimen of the best working ore of these mines, and of three aver- age specimens of Wisconsin ore, showed that the latter contains from a fifteenth to a third more of copper than the former. " The Wisconsin copper veins may rank among the most important that have yet been discovered in the limestone formation. "Finally, the Wisconsin copper ore derives additional value in cousecpience of being found in the vicinity of, and often in the same mine as, productive veins of zinc ore." The richest deposits of copper as yet discovered, are in the northern part of the State ; a much fuller description of them will be found in the second part of this work, on Lake Superior. It may be added, as an additional fact, whereby to esti- mate the value of the Wisconsin copper, that, in some of the European mines, "the ore does not contain above three per cent, of pure copper, and yet it pays for working;" also, some of the Cornwall mines are worked profitably, at a depth of more than two thousand feet "from the grass," as the phrase there is. What a contrast these mines pre- sent to those of Wisconsin, many of which lie between fifty and one hundred feet from the surface. Here we have inexhaustible beds of the finest ore in the world, which have been proved, on analysis, to be superior to the English copper; besides, the miners say "they can afford to raise copper ore at the same price as lead, namely, from one and a half to two cents a pound;" but as it requires much more capital and skill than to smelt lead, they have hith- erto been prevented. In the means of transportation we zinc. 55 are not surpassed by any in the world ; a short distance of from five to ten miles will convey the ore to the shipping port. It is a burning disgrace to our country that so many thousand pounds of copper are yearly imported from England, and other parts of Europe, when we have such unlimited quantities at our own doors. There is copper enough in Wisconsin to supply the United States for years to come, and to spare. All that is wanting is capital and men to develop its rich resources. " ZINC ORE. "This ore, found in Wisconsin, usually occurs in the same fissures with the lead. It is chiefly the electric cala- mine — the carbonate of zinc of the mineralogist. Though a solid ore, it has an ochreous, earthy aspect, often resem- bling the cellular substance of the bone : hence it is fami- liarly known among the miners by the name of ' dry bones.' "At some of the 'diggins' large quantities of this car- bonate of zinc can be procured. Thousands of tons are now lying in various locations on the surface, rejected as worthless ; indeed, as a nuisance. It is known to but a few of the miners as a zinc ore at all. An analysis of this ore proves it to be a true carbonate of zinc, containing forty-five per cent, of the pure metal. " Sulphuret of zinc (sometimes called blende, and, by the English miner, 'black-jack') is also abundant in the Wisconsin mines. It contains from fifty-five to sixty-five per cent, of zinc, but is more difficult of reduction than the calamine. " Sheet zinc is becoming an article of considerable de- mand in the market, for culinary purposes, and as a cover- ing for valuable buildings, instead of lead. But the chief consumption of this metal is in making brass, well known to be a compound of copper and zinc. 56 GEOIOGY OP WISCONSIN. " Lai'ge quantities, both of copper and zinc, are now imported from Europe into the United States, to supply the continually increasing demand for brass. It is not im- probable that the district now under consideration might furnish of both metals a sufficient amount, at least for many years to come, to supply the entire United States with brass of home produce and manufacture. " Of zinc, at least, there is assuredly a sufficient supply, not only for that purpose, but also for exportation. All the zinc now produced in Great Britain is trifling in quan- tity, and quite insufficient for the demand : so that a large quantity is imported annually into that island, chiefly from Germany and Belgium. The importation of zinc into England, in the year 1833, exceeded six millions and a half of pounds ; a fact which may give us an idea of the importance of this metal as an article of commerce. Among the productive mineral resources of "Wisconsin, the, at present despised, zinc ore may claim no contemptible rank. "iron ore. " The iron ore of Wisconsin is of excellent quality, and in unlimited abundance. I explored, a few years since, in company with Professor Troost, Geologist of Tennessee, the iron mines of that State, which already furnish iron to a considerable portion of the Western States. And though I have seen no proof that iron exists in Wisconsin in de- posits as extensive as in Tennessee, yet the locations of iron ore are numerous, and the quality of it, in general, is as good. " In some of the townships, on the Wisconsin river, iron ore was found scattered in innumerable fragments over the entire surface, and of a quality so rich as to be crystallized in much perfection. The reports and specimens from that IRON. 57 portion of the district induce me to believe that iron ore can be found there, on the surface alone, sufficient to sup- ply several iron furnaces for years to come." 1 In relation to the Magnetic Iron Beds of the Penokie Range, border- ing on Lake Superior, he says: "The most easterly ap- pearance of magnetic iron which I observed, was in fissile black slate, about four miles west of the Montreal Trail, along which the Section No. 4, W. is made. About four miles along the strike of the beds, southwest by west, the bed was seen by Mr. Randall, in 1848, in the Fourth Prin- cipal Meridian, Township 44° north, eighteen miles from the lake. "We may with confidence pronounce it to be a continuous bed from the meridian westward to Lac des Anglais. Its thickness, richness, and value, vary very much ; but we found it more or less developed, whenever we crossed the range, and could get a view of the rock. The bed of magnetic iron ore south of Lac des Anglais is of extraordinary thickness — twenty-five to sixty feet. The proportion of iron and quartz is very variable, but the separation of them by mechanical means would, in general, not be difficult. There are many places in the mountain, west of Bad river, which present more than fifty feet of quartz and iron, in about equal proportions. It should, however, be borne in mind, that the whole region is not only covered so thickly with timber that no distant views can be had without climbing trees, but the drift often con- ceals the rocks, over a large proportion, even of the ele- vated ridges. Where the west branch of Tyler's Fork crosses the chain, Mr. Beesley found the southerly face of the uplifts well charged with a rich, heavy ore, showing thirty, fifty, and seventy feet, with iron predominating over quartz. All the specimens we saw were of the black mag- netic oxide, without any of the red. The productive yield 1 These ores of iron yield from 40 to 60 per cent, of the metal. 58 GEOLOGY OP WISCONSIN. of such an ore can only be determined by trial, in properly constructed furnaces ; but judging of our specimens by weight, they will afford fifty to sixty per cent, of the metal. The analysis of one specimen yielded over sixty-six per cent. For present use a supply of ore may be obtained from the rubbish, at the foot of the uplifts, iu blocks and pieces, already detached from the cliff, and the accompa- nying quartz. "Where it is not dislodged, it will be neces- sary to break the whole, and then assort it. There are cases where numerous particles of the oxides, both red and black (the protoxide and the peroxide), are disseminated through the quartz rock, above and below the regular beds. This might be separated by bruising and stamping — a process which the whole must undergo, in order to be profitably wrought in the forges. "There is no limestone yet known in the region to be used as a flux ; but there is an abundance of timber and water-power. There are certain proportions of iron and silex, and of silex and magnesia, that are easily fused. If the silex of this ore is not so excessive as to make it refractory — or, if in practice, that difficulty can be reme- died by the use of magnesian slates, which are abundant — these mines may be wrought hereafter at a profit, and rival the works of Northern Europe. The magnetic ores of the northern part of the State of New York, that have pro- duced iron famous for its strength, are also siliceous. The magnetic iron-ore is freed of a portion of its silex, at little expense, after being bruised, by the application of magnets acting on a large scale upon the magnetic particles. The part which enters chemically into the ore, forming a sili- cate, is not wholly cleared by working, but gives a very fine-grained metal, that is peculiarly good for steel. The famous Swedish iron is from beds of magnetic ore, embraced IRON. 59 in hornblende rocks, doubtless metamorphic, and analogous to those of Bad River. "The extensive mines, or rather mountains, of iron-ore in Michigan, are also magnetic, and associated with meta- morphic slates. These ores are, in some cases, more inclined to the peroxide than the Bad River beds ; but specimens from the two regions are often so similar, that no one would be able to separate them, by the texture, color, or weight. The geological associations are precisely alike. In Michigan, as in Wisconsin, the mountains com- posed of tilted magnesian, hornblende, and siliceous slates, enclose beds of ore. There, as here, on each side of the metamorphic range, are igneous rocks, of various ages and composition — quartzose, granitic, syenitic, and trappous. The ores of that region have attracted attention, and one establishment for making blooms, direct from the ore, has been in operation more than a year. The iron is remark- able for its solidity and toughness, keeping its place better than Swedish, and is no more brittle. It possesses the quality of being worked into fine cold-drawn wire, and has been sought after by an establishment for manufacturing wire in Massachusetts. " The Iron Ridge, and Ore Beds of Dodge County, have attracted much notice of late years, partly on account of the interesting and anomalous character of the ore, and partly because of the great practical value of a bed thus situated. The 'Wisconsin Iron Company' has the credit of making the first experiment upon this ore, and, in fact, of erecting the first stack furnace in Wisconsin. Their works at Maysville, in Dodge County, are driven by water, and consume the ore of the ' Iron Ridge,' which is hauled on sleds, in winter, about four and a half miles. The analysis of the ore taken from Mr. Theodore B. Sterling's saw-mill, Section 13, T. 11, north range, 16° east of the 60 GEOLOGY OF WISCONSIN. 4th Principal Meridian, the course being east and west, as given by Professor Cassels, of the Medical College at Cleveland, Ohio, indicates over 53 per cent, of iron." The richness of the iron veins in this district, and along the Lake Superior shores, cannot be correctly known, until more mines are opened. But more encouraging and numerous surface-indications of an abundant supply of this useful metal can hardly offer themselves to the notice of the geologist. In a country more thickly settled, and with skill and capital to spare, these would speedily cause and justify the employment of whole villages of workmen. To incidental causes alone, and not to any natural deficiency of material, must be attributed the custom of importing annually from England, into this country, millions of dollars' worth of iron for railroads and other purposes. Enormous as is the produce of Great Britain's iron-furnaces, we might rival it in America. How little, here in the West at least, we have hitherto improved our natural resources in this branch of commerce, is proved by the thousands of tons of rich iron-ore which lie unappropriated and uselessly scattered over the State of Wisconsin. But this is not only the worst feature of neglect. Strange as it may seem, the iron rails laid upon the road to Fond du Lac, (the nearest route to these mines,) were brought from England, not only across the Atlantic, but twelve hundred miles into the interior, and within two hundred miles from these rich iron mines, — mines as rich, as pro- ductive, and as easily worked, as those in England, from which these rails are manufactured and shipped so far, and at such enormous and unnecessary expense, and this, too, besides the government duties paid. This is infinitely more absurd than the importing of bricks from Holland, by the early settlers of New York and Albany, and more than it would be to bring lumber from Europe to build BUILDING-STONE. 61 houses in the very shadows of the extensive Wisconsin pineries. This iron is of a superior quality, and can be worked and furnished along the railway lines at one-half the cost of foreign iron. The ore is unsurpassed in rich- ness and purity, and can be transported wherever there is coal, and there manufactured. 1 Facts, such as these, call loudly upon Government for additional acts of legislation. If English iron of an infe- rior quality is allowed to enter our country, and success- fully compete with the products of our own mines, sufficient duties should be levied upon it to protect us from ruinous competition with their large capitalists, who, by the low wages they allow their half-starved workmen, can afford to sell their iron, even with the present low duties, at the same rates as ours can be afforded at the mines. In relation to building-stone, Dr. Owen remarks: "I was, for a time, in doubt in regard to the value of the "Wisconsin limestone as a building material. Much of the limestone that is taken from the 'diggins' crumbles, also, on being exposed to the weather; yet a portion of the formation will yield some of the best quarries in the world, and several excellent ones are already opened. For example, on the Sinsinnewa Mound, at Mineral Point, at the Four Lakes, and (but not so good,) on the Peccatonica. This excellent building-stone chiefly occurs in the lower portion of the upper beds of the cliff limestone, and also in the lower beds of the ' Missouri limestone.' It is of a beautiful, uniform, light-yellow color — compact, fine- grained, sharp-angled, capable of receiving a handsome finish, and, if well selected, calculated to endure for ages uninjured. It is very readily quarried in square blocks, from six inches to a foot in thickness ; can be obtained, however, doule or treble that thickness, and of any required ■ Report of Committee on Public Lands, May, 1856. 6 62 EARTHWORK ANTIQUITIES. horizontal extent. The labor of quarrying is light, in consequence of the rock being exposed in cliffs, so as to preclude the necessity of excavation. " The Magnesian limestone of Yorkshire, England, selected by some of the most experienced geologists in the world as the best building-stone in England, is, if not the equivalent of the cliff limestone of Wisconsin, a rock very closely resembling it. The inference is, that some of the strata of the cliff limestone of Wisconsin may be expected to furnish building materials of a quality the most superior. ' ' In many parts of the State, more recent explorations have been made, and quarries of various kinds of marble discovered, which promise to be abundant and valuable. According to Messrs. Foster and Whitney's report, they are found on the Michigamig and Mennomonee Rivers, and afford beautiful varieties, whose prevailing color is light pink, traversed by veins or seams of deep red. Others are blue and dove-colored, beautifully veined. They are sus- ceptible of a fine polish, and some on the Mennomonee are within navigable distance of New York. EARTHWORK ANTIQUITIES. Several very singular monuments, or collections of monu- ments, are to be seen a few miles from Madison, the capital of Wisconsin. These are conical elevations of earth, standing on the prairies, or sometimes covered by a grove, of very regular shape, usually from five to ten feet in height, and from thirty to fifty in diameter, having a circular base. They are generally in groups, or collective ranges, some half dozen or more being placed in line, in contact or con- tiguity at the bases, extending usually from east to west. By what people discovered, at what time, or with what design, is still involved in doubt. It seems, however, that they must have been intended for receptacles for the dead. EARTHWORK ANTIQUITIES. 63 The perfect regularity of shape and direction, forbid the idea of a natural formation. The Indians know nothing of them, have no traditions, and therefore the inference is drawn that they were the work of another race, before the tribes now here possessed the country. To our mind, however, the inference is not a legitimate one. The Indian traditions are of the creation, the deluge, the first appear- ance of man and woman upon the earth, great events con- nected with the formation and peopling of the world, and kindred to them ; but of the extinction of tribes or nations by war, pestilence, and the inhumation of bodies slain by disease or battle, they transmit, we believe, no story. Had these mounds been constructed but a few centuries ago, the present descendants of the people who reared them, might be now informed of their date or object. These mounds were examined by Mr. Locke, who was astonished to find that some well-informed persons, in their neighborhood, should pretend to dispute their artificial origin. He remarks :' " The same ambition to exercise an independent judgment might lead these individuals to dispute that the ruins of Herculaneum are artificial ; the same argument might be used, that ' they just come so in the earth.' I am convinced of the correctness of Mr. Taylor's account, 2 in which he describes them as being ' in the form of animals' effigies.' " There is another group of works about eight miles east of the Blue Mounds. They are on the great road from Prairie du Chien, through Madison, to Lake Michigan — a road so decidedly marked by nature, that I presume it has been the thoroughfare, 'the trail,' the great 'war-path,' erer since the region in the vicinity has been inhabited by migrating man, and will continue to be his pathway until 1 In his report to Dr. Owen. 2 Silliman's Journal, 34 vol. 64 EARTHWORK ANTIQUITIES. the hills and the rivers exchange their places. " In examin- ing some of these works, I did not discover a ditch or cavity from which the earth to construct them had been taken. They occupy commanding hill-tops and the gentle slopes into the valleys, being uniformly raised from a smooth and well-formed surface, always above inundation, and well guarded from the little temporary currents pro- duced from showers. "If these figures were originally intended to represent animals, they might have been much more distinct and specific than they now are. It is obvious that any minute delinea- tions must soon be obliterated by the agency of the weather. Most of them have the upper part of the head, the ears, or antlers, apparently too large — at least it appears so in the drawings. They are the favorite resort of badgers, which, finding them raised and dry, have selected them for bur- rowing ; and it is wonderful that they retain their outline so perfectly. But above all the creatures, civilized man will obliterate them the most speedily ; and it is much to be regretted that the multitude of extraordinary figures, raised like embossed ornaments over the whole part of this country, could not be accurately measured and delineated before they shall be obliterated for ever. I had other duties to perform, and was enabled to take these measure- ments by an enthusiasm which awoke me in my tent at midnight, and assisted me to prepare my breakfast before day, and sent me into the cold bleak fields on a November morning, to finish the admeasurements of a whole group of figures before the usual time of commencing the labors of the day. Mr. Taylor has represented the effigies of birds, and one of the human figure, as occurring here ; and I am happy, with a full conviction of the general accuracy of his representations, to call the reader's atteution to his interesting paper. EARTIIWORK ANTIQUITIES. 65 " On one of the hills I saw an embankment exactly id the form of the cross, as it is usually represented as the emblem of Christianity. Some of the surveyors brought in sketches of works in the form of birds, with wings expanded, and I heard of others in the form of lizards and tortoises. From what I have seen, I should think it very probable that these forms are to be found. But in order that their existence should excite in the public that interest which, as relics of ancient history, they really possess, they should be so exactly surveyed and depicted that their representa- tions can be relied upon with confidence. I object to the very careless and imperfect manner in which most of our antiquities have been examined, by which they have been rather guessed at, than surveyed. ' ' Other earthworks have been found scattered over differ- ent parts of the State. At Aztalan, in Jefferson County, there is an ancient fortification, 550 yards long, 215 yards wide, with walls four or five feet high, and more than twenty feet thick at the base. Another work, resembling a man in a recumbent position, 120 feet long, and 30 across the trunk, is to be seen near the Blue Mounds ; and one resembling a turtle, 56 feet in length, at Prairieville. These artificial works are generally without order, but sometimes have a systematic arrangement, with fragments of pottery often scattered around. Some are so defaced as to make it difficult to trace the animal resemblance referred to, while others are distinctly visible. One is said to have been discovered near Cassville, resembling the extinct Mastodon. 6* CHAPTER V. LUMBER REGIONS OF WISCONSIN — RIVERS — LAKES, ETC. Wisconsin possesses peculiar advantages as a lumbering country. There are vast pine forests on the Upper Wis- consin and its tributaries, the Wolf river, the St. Croix, many branches of the Mississippi, and on Lake Superior. The other forest trees are spruce, tamarac, cedar, oaks of different species, birch, aspen, basswood, hickory, elm, ash, hemlock, poplar, sycamore, and sugar maple. The oak openings form a pleasing feature in the landscape, and comprise a large portion of the finest lands of the State. They owe their present condition to the action of the an- nual fires, which have kept under all forest growth, except the varieties of oak which can withstand the sweep of that element. A few years since the lumber of Western New York, and Pennsylvania, had undisputed possession of the market of the Ohio and Mississippi valleys, above New Orleans. The course of this trade may now be considered as perma- nently changed. The extensive and valuable pineries of Wisconsin control, and will soon have entire possession of these markets, and also supply, to a considerable extent, the country on the lakes. The whole region between the Wisconsin and St. Croix rivers is interspersed with thick groves of large white pines, which are not excelled in quality by those of Maine, New Brunswick, the Alleghany or Susquehanna rivers, or of any other part of the world. While some of this pine timber (66) LUMBER REGIONS. 67 is found in low or marshy places, the largest portion ia upon dry ground, which, when the timber is removed, is well adapted to cultivation. No accurate estimate has been made of the quantity of these pine lands. Upon the Wisconsin, the Black, and the Chippewa rivers, as well as their tributaries, are numerous lumbering establishments, the annual product of which exceeds three hundred million feet; while, in addition, saw logs are rafted and run from these rivers to the cities and villages on the Mississippi, to be there manufactured into lumber, amounting to about half the same quantity. The value of the lumber products of the forest, iu that portion of the country drained by these four large rivers, already amounts to a sum varying from five to eight millions of dollars (though lumbering is yet in its infancy). This article is gradually increasing in value, and must continue to increase, as the demand in the Mississippi valley is, and ever' will be, greater than the supply. The latter is limited ; the former can have no assignable limit. The completion of the St. Croix and Lake Superior Railroad will open this valuable region to the settler, affording him an opportunity of supplying a large market in the southern part of this State, and in Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri. Thousands of acres of these valuable tim- ber lands are waiting for settlers to occupy them, at Government price — $1.25 per acre. Proprietors of extensive pine lands have usually adopted the policy of selling to lumbermen the right of cutting the timber, receiving a certain stipulated price for what is called the "stumpage," and afterwards selling the soil to the farmer. The "stumpage" upon the Penobscot, the Kennebec, and the Androscoggin, in Maine, the St. John's in New Brunswick, and upon the Alleghany and the Sus- quehanna, is from $5 to $8 per thousand feet. The price, G8 LUMBER REGIONS. of course, is regulated very much by the market value of lumber and the supply of pine timber. Upon these lands it would be worth now from $2 to $5 per thousand feet, depending very much upon the distance it required to be hauled. It is safe to estimate the "stumpage" at the average price of $2 per thousand. Ordinary pine trees will yield at least one thousand feet each, and it ought hardly to be called timbered land that will not average twenty-five trees to an acre ; so that, upon this calculation, the stumpage of these lands would be $50 per acre, which, extravagant as it may appear, we believe is quite within bounds. The river St. Croix, separating the State of Wisconsin from Minnesota, is celebrated for its pineries. It is esti- mated, that in the year 1855 there was sent to market, sawed and in the log, 300,000,000 feet. Estimating the average value of this lumber "afloat," at $10 per thou- sand feet, the value of the trade for that year would be $3,000,000. " The lumbermen of the St. Croix, during the sessions of the Wisconsin and Minnesota Legislatures of 1850-1, procured the incorporation of the ' St. Croix Boom Com- pany,' with a capital of $10,000. This work was consi- dered absolutely necessary, to facilitate the business of dri- ving, assorting, and rafting logs. The stock was speedily taken ; and by the following season the boom was built and ready for service. The work is substantial and permanent. Piers of immense size are sunk at proper distances, from the Minnesota shore to the foot of a large island near the centre of the stream, and again from the head of the island to the Wisconsin shore. The boom timbers are hung from pier to pier, and the whole river is entirely commanded, with no possibility of scarcely a single log escaping. The charter of the Company compels them, however, to give LUMBER REGIONS. 69 free passage to all boats, rafts, &c, ascending or descend- ing the river. This duty is rather difficult to perform at certain times, particularly when the logs are running into the boom briskly, and hands are not to be had to raft and run them out. This was the case once this season. The Asia came up with a heavy freight, which she had signed to deliver at Taylor's Falls. When she reached the boom a barrier of three or four miles of logs compactly inter- vened upon the water's surface, and forbade her further progress. The Company had been unable to procure la- borers to clear out the logs, but were nevertheless clearly liable to damages for obstructing navigation. They chose the only remedy at hand, which was to receive the freight, and pay its transportation up to the Falls in Mackinaw boats. With a full complement of men the boom can always be kept clear at the point where it crosses the main channel of the river. " The importance of the lumber business of the St. Croix river would hardly be estimated by a stranger. Large quantities are floated down the Mississippi to St. Louis. The business of getting out the timber is carried on in the winter, and affords employment to large numbers of young men. The price of timber, as quoted in St. Paul market, is, for the best, $30 per M. ; for common, $20." The country lying between Green Bay and the Wolf river, as far north as the State line of Michigan, is slightly rolling, with a general depressive inclination southerly ; generally the soil is rich and productive, and extensively covered with a heavy growth of timber, viz : white and Norway pine, hemlock, rock maple, birch, cedar, tamarac, and some other varieties in smaller quantities. Pine lands, 15 miles north of Fond du Lac, without any commercial facilities, except being near some navigable stream, are now worth from ten to twenty dollars per acre. Chicago fur- 70 LUMBER REGIONS. nishes, to St. Louis, as a regular business, large quantities of manufactured lumber from that section of country ; and such is the profit derived from this branch of trade to all concerned in it, that along the streams of Northern Wis- consin, navigable for lumber, nearly all the Government pine lands, for a distance of 15 miles north of Fond du Lac, have been taken up. Near the Michigan line and north of it, large quantities of the most beautiful and valu- able curl and bird's eye maple abound. The rapids of the streams flowing through this part of the country furnish abundant water-power for the manufac- ture of lumber ; and on the annual spring rise, and occa- sional freshets at other seasons of the year, the yield of the mills is floated from the Wolf into Lake Winnebago and the Lower Fox. Large quantities besides are floated into Green Bay. It is difficult to estimate the amount of lum- ber produced yearly in the region under consideration. The pine trees from which it is made are nearly all taken from the public lands. From reports to Government, it is calculated that the timber on the Oconto and Wolf rivers, and on the head waters of other streams, will afford sufficient supplies for thirty years, although becoming less accessible every year. Lumber from Wisconsin now passes in considerable quantities through the Illinois Canal to the Mississippi, and the towns on the Illinois river. The produce of the Wolf river pineries, although but lately noticed, has hitherto been underrated. It has been estimated, by persons well acquainted with the business, that in logs and lumber an amount equal to not less than seventy-five millions of feet of pine lumber passed down the Wolf river last year, and will not be less the present year. The business is increasing, and employs a great many men and teams. It is estimated that the work of LUMBER REGIONS. 71 each ox team, and the number of hands employing it, will clear from five to seven hundred dollars in a season over expenses ; although there are instances in which nearly double that amount has been made. Most of those en- gaged in the lumber business of Wolf river are from Maine, and state the facility for getting logs out and running them to be superior to anything in their experience. The oppor- tunities for going into business have been very favorable to poor men, and at the present time there is no class of people in a more thriving condition than the lumbermen. Pine lands are now held at from five to ten dollars per acre, and, in some instances, as high as twenty for choice tracts. The quantity of lumber manufactured from the various regions or lumbering points in 1854, was estimated as follows : Black River 48,000,000 Chippewa 60,000,000 Green Bay and Oconto 100,000,000 Manitowoc 35,000,000 St. Croix 70,000,000 Bed Cedar River 20,000,000 Wisconsin 125,000,000 Wolf River 40,000,000 Total 498,000,000 There are also numerous mills scattered throughout other sections in the State, from which no statistics have been obtained, which, in all, would lead us to estimate the manufacture in the State as high as five hundred and fifty millions of feet in 1854, since which time the business has increased at least 50 per cent. The Chicago, St. Paul and Fond du Lac Railroad, by affording an easy communication to a portion of this 72 LUMBER REGIONS. region, will render it more advantageous to the settler. This Company lately received over a million of acres, being a part of the lands donated to the State by the U. S. Government for railroad purposes. The Milwaukee and Horicon Railroad Company, from Milwaukee to the City of Superior, is about purchasing from Government a strip of land, equal to a million of acres, which they will select partly from timber lands. This road, when completed, will also open a vast section of country to improvement Pe?so7is desirous of settling in Wisconsin should re- member that thousands of acres of fine lands, thickly covered with timber, are yet open to pre-emption, along the routes of these railroads. Although it is at first tedious, and more difficult to bring the soil under cultiva- tion than on the prairie, yet it is generally conceded that, in the end, a farm in the woodland will be the most desi- rable ; the soil is thought to be stronger, and better adapted to wheat, fruit, etc. Emigrants from timbered countries generally select these lands, while those from the prairie regions of Illinois and Iowa settle on the prairies here. The first crop is put in on the sod, and is generally very good. Eastern capitalists are greatly needed to develop the unrivalled water-power of the rivers we have mentioned, as yet but partially used. The immense pineries at their sources are convenient to their several falls ; besides, the growing demand for lumber in the adjoining States (with- out any competition in the Mississippi valley), presents opportunities for the investment of their capital rarely offered. Most of these rivers empty into the Mississippi, and are navigable for rafts and boats of large size. RIVERS. t3 RIVERS. "Wisconsin is more bountifully supplied with water com- munication than any other State in the Union. On its western border flows the mighty Mississippi, while its inte- rior is traversed in every direction by navigable streams, flowing generally in a southwestern direction, and dis- charging their waters into this great river. The Mississippi rises far in the regions of the northwest, and flows but a short distance before it becomes a broad stream. Sometimes, in its beginnings, it moves, a wide expanse of waters, with a current scarcely perceptible, along a marshy bed. At other times it is compressed to a narrow and rapid current, between ancient and hoary lime- stone bluffs. No thinking mind can contemplate this mighty and resistless stream, sweeping ever onward from point to point, through dark forests, and cultivated lands, without a feeling of awe. After a course of about two hundred miles from its source, it bends towards the east, and approaches within forty miles of the Bay of St. Louis, the head of ocean steam navigation of Lake Superior. From the earliest accounts we have of this route from the lake to the river, it has been more generally traversed than any other in the northwest. Large quantities of furs have been sent from the northern part of Wisconsin in bark canoes up the St. Louis river, thence carried across the portage to Sandy Lake, and re-embarked there for the Mississippi. This trip has frequently been taken by tourists, and by many of the first settlers of the City of Superior. On the bosom of the "Mighty Father of Waters," the agricultural and mineral productions of our State find their way to St. Louis, New Orleans, and the Gulf of Mexico. 1 74 RIVERS. Immense rafts of lumber are constantly seen floating down its current, consigned to various ports on its banks. The lands bordering on this river are of incomparable fertility, equally adapted to the growth of wheat or the rearing of cattle, and afford a large surplus for exportation. The immigration to this favored region is great. Tillages and towns are rapidly springing up, on sites which, a few years ago, were the huntiug grounds of various savage tribes. The daily travel on steamboats up this river is enormous, and increasing at such a rapid rate, that in a few years the valley of the Upper Mississippi will contain a dense population. The Wisconsin is the largest river that intersects the State. It rises near the northern boundary, and flows southward to the Winnebago Portage, in Columbia county ; thence it pursues a southwesterly direction until it enters the Mississippi, four miles below Prairie du Chien. The whole length is estimated at 600 miles. In the upper part of its course it is bordered by extensive forests of pine timber, of which large quantities are sent to market. It is navigable for steamboats to Portage City, about two hundred miles, and a canal is in process of construction from this point to the Nenah or Fox river, a distauce of a mile and a half. Once completed, heavy freight between the Eastern markets and St. Louis will seek this channel, in preference to that of the Illinois and Michigan Canal, as now it seeks the latter in preference to other routes. The St. Croix river has its extreme source in Lake St. Croix and several other lakes that lie near the west end of Lake Superior. It is but a short distance (four miles, we believe), between this and Burnt Wood river, which flows into that lake. Across the narrow portage which sepa- rates their waters, large quantities of furs, merchandise, etc., have been transported on the shoulders of voyageurs, RIVERS. 75 and re-shipped in bark canoes for the Mississippi. The St. Croix river pursues a southwestern course from its source, until it reaches the east line of Minnesota. From this point it flows southward, forming the boundary be- tween that State and Wisconsin, until it empties its waters into the "Great River." The whole length is about two hundred miles. Large quantities of lumber are cut from the extensive pine forests bordering on its banks, and floated down to the Mississippi. The Bad Axe, Black, and Chippewa rivers, are im- portant channels for floating timber to market from the pine regions in the northwestern part of the State. The Menomonee, emptying into Green Bay, and the Montreal, into Lake Superior, are rapid streams, which are valuable for mill-sites. They form part of the north- eastern boundary. The Menomonee has a descent of 1049 feet. There are numerous saw-mills in operation on its waters, turning out large quantities of lumber yearly, which are floated into Green Bay. The St. Louis river, considered as the primary source of the St. Lawrence, flows some thirty miles along the northwestern part of the State ; it is navigable a short distance from its mouth, and will be more fully described iu Part II. of this work. The Fox River, or, as it is called by the Indians, Xeenah, is one of the most important rivers in the State. It rises in Marquette County, and flows nearly south-west, towards the Wisconsin j when within one and a half miles of that river, it changes its direction to the north ; after flowing a few miles, it passes through Lake Winnebago, and falls into Green Bay. Its whole length is estimated at two hundred miles. The Fox River Improvement is designed to enable boats to pass from Lake Michigan to the Mississippi. ?6 RIVERS. The whole length of canal necessary to secure a steam- boat communication from Green Bay to Lake Winnebago, is about five miles. It is 100 feet wide on the bottom, and 120 at the top (two feet wider than the famous Welland Canal). The locks are 40 feet wide, by 160 long, and built in the most permanent manner, of solid stone masonry, and in a style that will not suffer in comparison with any similar work in the Eastern States. It is calculated that, with the improved manner of working these locks, a steamer can pass each in the short space of three minutes. This will afford a rapid transit for the vast amount of freight that must and will seek an outlet through this thoroughfare to an Eastern market. The capacity of the river for all purposes of navigation is undoubted ; at no season of the year can there be any failure of water. Twelve miles above Oshkosh, westward, is the mouth of the Wolf River, a tributary of the Fox, and navigable for steamers for one hundred and fifty miles. Forty miles above the mouth of the Wolf River is the town of Berlin ; sixty miles further -is Portage City and the town of Fort Winnebago ; above which places, for sixty miles, and below for one hundred and thirty-five miles, the Wisconsin is now navigable for steamers. Through these, a ready communication will be secured with the Mississippi and its tributaries ; and it is confidently calculated that, at no distant day, steam tugs, with between 200 and 500 tons burthen in tow, each, from St. Peter's River, from St. Paul, and other places in that direction, will land their cargoes at Green Bay, to be shipped to an Eastern market. The objection to be urged to this route, from so remote a locality, is, that it will take too long to make the transit. To this we have to reply, that it is esti- mated by those who know better than we, that this great distance can and will be overcome by just these kinds of LAKES. 77 crafts in from four to six days, and by passenger boats in much less time. This improvement will open about 1000 miles to steam navigation, between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi River, including the navigable streams in the interior of Northern Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota. This stupendous work, when completed, will do far more for the prosperity and advancement of the vast regions, opened to the advantages of connection with the Atlantic market, than any other improvement contemplated. LAKES. Lake Michigan. — This, which is second of the great lakes in size, is, in situation, soil, and climate, in many respects, preferable to them all. It is the largest lake that is wholly included within the United States. Its length, following the curve, is 360 miles ; its greatest breadth, about 90 miles; contains 16,981 square miles, aud has a mean depth of 900 feet. Its surface is about 600 feet above the level of the sea. On its western shore is the great indentation of Green Bay, itself equal to the largest European lakes, being a hundred miles in length, by thirty in width, well sheltered at its mouth by the Traverse Islands, and having for its principal affluent the outlet of Lake Winnebago and the Fox River. No lake in the world is surrounded by so rich an agricultural country as Lake Michigan. On its western shore is Wisconsin, with its productive grain and grazing lands, and its immensely valuable lumber region ; on the north-west and north is that vast region of mineral wealth of part of the State of Michigan ; on its eastern border is the Michigan Peninsula, yielding its vast supplies of cereals, especially wheat and maize ; aud on the south and south-west lie Indiana and 7* 78 LAKES. Illinois, whose inexhaustible stores of agricultural products amaze the world. 1 On the Wisconsin side, several large cities have sprung up, which are rapidly increasing in commerce and wealth. The total amount of the trade of Lake Michigan for the year 1851, was estimated at $58,468,029. In 1856, the imports and exports of Milwaukee alone, one of its most important ports, reached the sum of $48,000,000. The entire commerce of the Lake for that year amounted to over $375,000,000. Besides the great lakes which border its northern and eastern shores, Wisconsin has a number of smaller ones, varying from one to thirty-eight miles in extent. These lakes are often surrounded by the most beautiful scenery, and abound in various kinds of fish, while on their shores are found fine specimens of agate, cornelian, and other precious stones. Large quantities of wild rice grow in the shallow waters on the margins of some of them, and attract immense flocks of water-fowl to these localities. Lake Winnebago, in the eastern part of the State, is the largest of its inland lakes. It is about twenty-eight miles long and ten wide, with an area of about two hundred and twelve miles, and communicates with Green Bay through the Fox or Neenah River. Its depth is unequal, but amply sufficient for purposes of navigation. " Four Lakes" is a name given to a chain of beautiful lakes in Dane County, extending in a line from northwest to southeast, and emptying their waters into Catfish River. They are very transparent, and of sufficient depth in most places for navigation. The country surrounding them is undulating, and consists mostly of prairies and "oak openings," which, in the opinion of many, bear a great 1 Andrews' Report. LAKES. 79 resemblance to English Park scenery. It is truly the "garden spot" of Wisconsin. First Lake, the lowest of the chain, is three miles and one-eighth in length, by two in width, covering about five square miles. It is situated a short distance above Dun- kirk Falls, near the southern line of the county. Second Lake, the next in order, is three and a half miles long, and nearly two wide ; and, like First, has an average depth of twelve feet. Third Lake is next above, at a distance of seven-eighths of a mile. It is about six and a half miles in length, by two in width. Madison, the capital of the State, is located on the north shore of this lake, on the strip of land between it and the next, about one mile across. Fourth Lake. — This beautiful expanse is the uppermost, and by far the largest of the chain — being six miles long, about four wide, and from fifty to seventy feet deep — covering an area of sixteen square miles. It is navigable for small steamboats. The land around this lake rises gradually from its mar- gin, and forms, in the distance, the most beautiful eleva- tions, the slopes of which are studded with clumps of woods, and groves of trees, forming the most charming natural scenery. The greatest variety of fish is to be ob- tained in this beautiful lake ; and it is believed, that for salubrity and fertility, this entire region will compare with any portion of the State. " The water of all these lakes, coming from springs, is cold and clear to a remarkable degree. For the most part, their shores are made of a fine gravel shingle ; and their bottoms, which are visible at a great depth, are composed of white sand, interspersed with granite boulders. Their banks, with few exceptions, are bold. A jaunt around them affords almost every variety of scenery — bold escarp- 80 maiden's rock. ments and overhanging bluffs, elevated peaks, and gently sloping shores, with graceful swells or intervals, affording magnificent views of the distant prairies and openings ; they abound in fish of a great variety, and innumerable water-fowl sport upon the surface. Persons desiring to settle in pleasant locations, with magnificent water-views and woodland scenery, may find hundreds of unoccupied places of unsurpassed beauty upon and near their margins." Lake Pepin is an expansion of the Mississippi River, west of Wisconsin. In some places it is three miles wide, but generally averaging about two and a half, filling the whole space from bluff to bluff, except at two points, where small meadows appear, and extending in length twenty- five miles upon the river. It is destitute of islands. All along its shores, majestic bluffs of limestone stretch with more regularity, and rise to a height more nearly uniform, than in other parts of the river. At the entrance of the lake, high above all the rest, towers the " Maiden's Rock," some two hundred feet above the water, grand in nature, and associated with one of the most touching and romantic of Indian legends — the oft-repeated story of Winona. As each passer-by always relates it, we will not be an excep- tion — it is an " ower-true" tale of Indian fidelity and affection : — Winona was the daughter of a celebrated chief, who had betrothed her to a favorite warrior ; but her heart had been pledged to another, not less noble, but more youthful brave. She resisted for some time the wishes of her father, but at last he vowed that she must accept the object of his choice. The wedding-day was appointed, and the chief had proclaimed a feast. Among the delicacies to be pro- vided for this occasion, was a certain berry that was found in great perfection upon this bluff. It was on a pleasant summer's evening, and all the female friends of Winona, VI maiden's ROCK. 81 accompanied by herself, were picking the desired berries. Carelessly did the " dark-haired maidens" wander on ; all at once, a low plaintive song fell upon their ears, and lo 1 upon the very edge of the frightful precipice stood the hapless Winona. Her song was death-like — she motioned them to keep back — then, one moment more, and Winona, the pride of her tribe, was buried in the clear, cold bosom of Lake Pepin. Pure woman's love, mysterious power, From gentlest breast dispels its fear — Winona, in her darkest hour, Nought but its whisperings can hear. O'er that tall rock, her death-song floats, Deep and despairing love its theme, Untutor'd nature swells its notes, Closing life's sweet, but mad'ning dream. Pepin ! thy waters long shall lave, With swelling stream, yon rock's rude breast; It marks the Indian maiden's grave, Where one pure heart has sunk to rest. CHAPTER VI. THE PRINCIPAL CITIES — MILWAUKEE — MADISON — RACINE, ETC. Milwaukee,' the largest and most important city in the State, and, after Chicago, the most flourishing on the lakes, is situated on the west shore of Lake Michigan, and on both sides of the Milwaukee river. It is pleasantly located, partly on the flats bordering the river, and on the bluffs rising abruptly from the lake to the height of some 100 feet. The river, running nearly parallel to the lake in a southerly direction, is navigable for the largest steam- boats over two miles from its mouth. As the commercial capital of Wisconsin, its situation de- mands particular attention. The laws which govern trade and travel are, by the improvements and spirit of the age, reduced to two : — 1st. The shortest route to market ; 2d. The quickest and cheapest mode of transportation. The products of the Northwest seek a market upon the Atlantic coast. Heretofore, New York and Boston have monopo- lized the trade of this region. They will always retain a large share of it ; but the recent improvements in the Canadas, and those projected, are rapidly diverting trade to the valley of the St. Lawrence. Business relations are being established between the cities of Quebec, Montreal, 1 For the facts and statistics in this article, we are indebted to the Report of the Board of Trade, prepared by its Secretary, An- drew J. Aikens, Esq. (82) ADVANTAGES OF MILWAUKEE. 83 Toronto, and Hamilton, on the one hand, and the Western Lake ports on the other. As regards New York and Boston, Milwaukee holds the most favorable position of any port on the western shore of Lake Michigan. Taking Buffalo as a common point on all the lines of trade be- tween these ports and those markets, it will be seen : 1st. That Milwaukee, by water communication, has the advan- tage in time and distance over any places at the south. 2d. For the most direct route to Buffalo, either by land or water carriage, Milwaukee (so soon as the direct com- munication by the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad is opened) presents the most natural centre for all the trade and travel between the Northwest and the East. It may be remarked here, that this direct route, including, as it does, 81 miles of ferriage, from Milwaukee to Grand Haven, is considered by some as of doubtful practical utility, as a reliable and safe means of communication at all seasons. Let it be borne in mind, however, that ice never forms in Lake Michigan, owing to its great depth, and that the two termini of the ferry, viz : Milwaukee and Grand Haven harbors, would be kept open by the semi- daily boats, if not by the direct action of the waves of the lake. The only severe storms to be feared being from the N. N. E., would not, even in the worst cases, prevent good staunch boats making their regular trips, as in leaving Milwaukee harbor they would be constantly making a wind- ward shore and smooth sea, and in leaving Grand Haven, although approaching a lee shore and rough water, would have an easy and safe access to a secure river harbor. The only days on which regular trips could not be made would be those when the cold was so intense that ice would form rapidly on the running and steering machinery of the boats. , This would not be, according to observations made for a ; series of years, more than five days in the year. Even the 84 MILWAUKEE. present winter, with thirty days of cold weather, the harbor remained open. As the general dh*ection of Northwestern trade and travel is coincident with the parallels of latitude instead of those of longitude, and as Milwaukee is in the same degree as the great Eastern markets, it can be easily seen that all the contemplated and progressing improvements must make it the natural centre or most available common point in the Northwest, whether by the semi-inland route, through Michigan and Canada, or around the Lakes. The advan- tages of this position will be very strongly developed, so soon as the direct route east, via Grand Haven and De- troit or Port Huron, is opened, and our system of railroads to the Mississippi completed. Its business radius will then extend from below Savanna, 111., in the Mississippi valley, to the extreme Northwest, sweeping in the trade of North- western Illinois, Iowa, and Nebraska, in addition to that of our own State. The harbor of Milwaukee is one of the best on the Great Lakes. The river widens at its mouth into a semi-circular bay, 63^ miles from point to point, and 23^ miles across. At the point of approach to the lake, an artificial channel is in progress of construction. This new harbor entrance is 260 feet in width, and will soon be excavated to a sufficient depth to accommodate the heaviest tonnage of the Lakes, and, when completed, will make it the most accessible and capacious on Lake Mich- igan. The facilities presented by the old harbor — in im- proving which the United States expended, in 1844-5, $50,000 — will still be preserved. For over five-eighths of a mile between these two entrances, the river is both wide and deep. Nothing but the grossest and most ruinous neglect, on the part of the city and of the U. S. Government, will ever permit this old harbor to fill up or become useless. I EDUCATIONAL ADVANTAGES. 85 EDUCATIONAL ADVANTAGES — HEALTHFULNESS OF LOCATION Milwaukee, unlike many other cities of the West, com- bines the advantages of trade with equal advantages of education and health. The system of Free Schools was early established in "Wisconsin, by the appropriation of the sixteenth section of every township in the State for the support and mainte- nance of common schools. From the proceeds of the sec- tional and overflowed lands, donated to the State, it is estimated that the School Fund will amount to $5,000,000. The avails of this permanent fund are set apart for the purposes of education. There are, in the City of Milwaukee, seven public schools. Each school has a primary, intermediate, and grammar department, and each department two or three teachers. The amount expended for educational purposes during the past year (aside from school-house repairs), was about $15,000. Of this sum, nearly $8000 accrues from the State Fund. Besides the public schools, the city has a University, in- corporated with full powers, and in successful operation, not inferior to any institution of the kind in the West. It has, also, a Female College in flourishing condition. In addition to these, there are several private schools of cha- racter and reputation, and a fully-organized Commercial College, all of which are well patronized and sustained. Built upon the high bluffs of Lake Michigan, and the picturesque slopes of the Milwaukee river, this city is un- rivalled in beauty of location by any other in the North- west. It is a rare circumstance to hear of a person of delicate health leaving it on account of difficulty of accli- mation. On the other hand, instances are numerous of 86 MILWAUKEE. people coming here with tendency to diseases of various kinds, who have, after a few years' residence, entirely re- covered. In summer it is not subject to the excessively hot and sultry weather of low towns, and in winter there is not the same intensity of cold — the lake being colder than the atmosphere in summer and warmer in winter. We estimate the mortality for the past year at two per cent., being less than the average of Boston or Buffalo for the past five years. POPULATION. The rise, history, and growth of the City of Milwaukee, is one of the wonders of a marvellous age and region. A few years ago the present site was a solitary waste, or field of savage warfare. In 1834 it contained only two log houses. The following table will show its rapid increase, up to the present date. 1838 700 1840 1,751 1842 2,700 1846 9,655 1847 14,061 1850 20,000 1853 25,000 1855 32,000 1857 45,000 1860 estimated 60,000 This increase has not been spasmodic or forced, but has followed the growth of the country tributary to it. VALUATION. The following table will show the assessed valuation of the real and personal property of the city. The prepon- derance in favor of the Third Ward is owing to the fact that the heaviest part of the mercantile wealth is located here, and constitutes nearly one-half of its valuation. BUILDINGS AND IMPROVEMENTS. 87 First Ward $3,262,260 Second Ward 3,095,950 Third Ward 8,958,850 Fourth Ward 5,358,470 Fifth Ward 5,094,110 Sixth Ward 1,999,190 Seventh Ward 6,388,340 Total $35,45S,130 The actual indebtedness of the city on the 4th of March, 1856, as reported by the City Comptroller, was $229,550. The tax list is divided as follows for the current year of 1857 : Ward Tax $69,935 Interest Tax 31,196 County Tax 47,944 City Expenses 23,976 State Tax 22,374 School Tax 9,588 Total Taxation $199,013 EEAL ESTATE TRANSACTIONS. Real estate during the first six months of the past year advanced rapidly, and at the rate of 25 to 30 per cent, increase on the prices of 1855. It closed with prices steady at the advance made in the early part of the season. It was marked by great activity in building, and the im- provements were of the most substantial character. In fact, their extent has been only limited by the supply of material and mechanics. BUILDINGS AND IMPROVEMENTS. Formerly, the brickmakers of Milwaukee were able to supply the consumption at home, and also export to the extent of 12,000,000. During the past year, although 88 MILWAUKEE. there has been a large increase of manufacture, less than 1,000,000 of bricks were exported, and of this number a great share was on old contracts. Large numbers of stores were erected, many of them spacious and valuable build- ings. As nearly as we can ascertain, there are of this class 75 stores, of an aggregate cost of $250,000. In addition to these improvements, there were erected 500 small build- ings, including shops, offices, and dwellings, costing, on an average, $1000 each, at an aggregate cost of $500,000. Besides the improvements we have mentioned, there were many other buildings erected. The amount expended upon construction and repairs, exclusive of streets and ground, exceeds $2,150,000. In this connection it is pertinent to remark, that Mil- waukee is celebrated for the manufacture of a peculiar kind of brick, of a delicate cream or straw color, agreeable to the eye, and unaffected by the action of the elements. The appearance of the houses, chiefly built of this material, is very striking, and to a stranger visiting the place for the first time, presents an admirable and remarkable sight. Few cities in the country (if, indeed, there are any) have the materials for building more at hand, or of finer quality, than this. Not only quarries of beautiful, light-colored stone, within the limits of the city, and adjacent to the railroads, but also lime in abundance for home consump- tion and exportation. As to lumber, the pineries of the north supply the city with 100,000,000 feet annually. WHOLESALE TRADE. The wholesale business of Milwaukee has received a great impetus lately, on account of the penetration of the interior of the State by railroads, and the opening of a direct road to the Mississippi. From present appearances, WHOLESALE TRADE. 89 there is abundant reason for believing that this part of its trade has but just begun, and that the future will see it increase in still greater ratio. During the present year, the Milwaukee and Mississippi Railroad was opened to Galena and Dubuque, and also to Prairie du Chien. By either of these routes merchandise can be delivered from Lake Michigan to the Mississippi river, with less railroad transit than any routes now in existence. Among the most important railroads is the Milwaukee and La Crosse, which passes through the interior of the State, opening up some of the finest farming lands in the West ; also running its branches into the lumber and mining regions of the North, as well as forming connec- tions with the Land Grant roads of Minnesota, which will eventually carry to Milwaukee, to be shipped to the East, a large portion of the produce of that productive State. The completion of these roads will bring to this city a heavy trade, that has been always supposed would centre at Chicago. Already Milwaukee outstrips her in the grain business ; the receipts and exports at this place, the pre- sent season, exceed those of Chicago, and there is no rea- son to show why they may not for the future. The merchants of this city procure transportation at a less tariff of freight than any port on the lake, by the lines of propellers now running between this and the lower lake ports, so that they are able to sell to the more Western houses at rates of advance, on New York, Boston, and Philadelphia prices, little more than cost, insurance, and transportation. At least 150 merchants are engaged in the wholesale business of this city, besides a large number who do a heavy retail trade with the country lying on the rail- road lines. The amount of the wholesale trade, for the year 1856, is estimated at $16,942,000. 90 MILWAUKEE. Among the houses included in this estimate are eighteen whose sales are over $200,000 each ; eight that sell over $300,000 each; three that sell over $400,000; and two that sell over $500,000 each. MONETARY. No city in the Union offers better, safer, or more remu- nerative employment for capital, than Milwaukee. The banking-system of Wisconsin is probably the safest in the United States. Under such an organization it is scarcely possible that bill-holders can suffer loss. 1 There is no law in Wisconsin against high rates of interest. The legal rate for banks being 10 per cent., and 12 per cent, for other purposes. The penalty for higher than these rates being simply a forfeiture of the interest charged, and only recoverable by a tender of the principal !" Every bank must transfer, in trust, to the State Treasurer, United States stocks, or any State stocks on which full interests at not less than six per cent, is annually paid, and estimated at their average value for the previous six months in New York City, equal to the amount of bills intended to be put in circulation ; but the Comptroller is not bound to receive them unless he considers them safe. " The law further provides that the bonds of any Railroad company in this State, which have forty miles or more in operation, bearing a rate of seven per cent, per annum, interest payable semi-annually, and secured by a deed of trust upon such road, may be received in lieu of public stocks ; but, in such case, bills shall be issued for not more than one-half the amount of such bonds. "And, as an additional security to bill-holders, it is provided that, before circulating any notes, bonds shall be given by the directors and stockholders of the bank, secured to the satisfaction of the Comptroller, to the amount of one-fourth the bills to be issued. " Each bill must have on its face the words, ' Secured by pledge of Public stocks,' (or of Railroad bonds,) and be countersigned by the Bank Comptroller." — Abstract of the Banking Law of the Stale. BANKING — WHEAT TRADE. 91 in gold. Large amounts of capital are flowing here yearly for investment, drawn from other States, in which the legal rates of interest are from six to eight per cent. The Banks average 10 per cent, dividends; the Insurance Companies, 10 to 15 ; and the Railroads, 8 to 10 per cent. Several millions of dolllars could be invested at these rates in the city. Table., showing the Principal Items in the Reports of the Banks of the City of Milwaukee, as made to the Comptroller, for January, 1857. Name of Banks. L r ars and Discounts. S'ockde. posited. Specie. Capital. Circula- tion. Deposits. Sate Bank of Wisconsin, . . Farmer' and Millers' Bank, Ba k nf Milwaukee, . . . Wiicoii.M. & F. L. Co. Bank, People's lank, Second Ward Bank, ... $774,881 96 572,810 90 374,S(i7 50 361.695 6t 73.278 19 >*<,fc22 77 60.003 61 $2,305 663 59 #69.000 45,000 50 00H 50,000 23,O"0 30,000 25,000 $292,000 $50,823 19 22,4.14 65 11.910 13 66,940 02 8.111 60 5,049 09 11,103 94 $ 176,372 <2 $4f0,00i 2-0,000 200.000 100,00 2S.000 50.0CO 25 000 $1,050,000 $59,721 43 409 40 317 49.327 22 9T7 23,--2 21,623 $j 6 366 $485,867 75 371.774 S5 10J,3.i3 37 320.903 02 7y»l2 54 97,776 51 72,495 62 $1,527 693 86 Besides the business done by the eight banks of issue, there is a large amount of transactions through private bankers and brokers. During the past year, there was added to the banking capital of the city $475,000, and it is contemplated to increase the capital of several banks during the current year of 1851. From careful estimates, the amount of money used by the entire mercantile and manufacturing business for 185G, exceeded $30,000,000. WHEAT TRADE. Milwaukee is one of the largest grain-markets in the world. Probably nine-tenths of the surplus wheat (the staple) of the State, is shipped from her port. So high has Wisconsin wheat stood at the Eastern and European markets, that its merchants have been able to sell it for eight to ten cents per bushel above the prices for Illinois and more southern States. This fact has turned the atten- 92 MILWAUKEE. tion of farmers to raising it, to the exclusion of other grains ; and, while the wheat crop, since 1850, has increased at the ratio of fifty per cent, per annum, the crops of rye, oats, barley, and corn, have remained stationary, or advanced only with the home demand. The crop of 1856 was the largest ever harvested in the State, and was secured in good condition. It was esti- mated at 12,000,000 bushels, an excess of 4,000,000 over the crop of 1855. We add a table, showing the rates at which Chicago and Milwaukee spring-wheat sold in New York during the past year. With such an advantage for Milwaukee wheat, this market will always have the pre- ference over Chicago. Prices of Wheat at New York, 1856. Date. Chicago. Milwaukee. June 1 $1 40 $1 48 " 7 125 140 "14 122 1 37£ (choice). " 23 129 136 July 2 130 1 374 " 9 139 150 " 16 130 140 " 23 134 144 Aug. 1 1 45 1 61 (choice). Sept. 1 120 130 Oct. 1 135 144 Nov. 1 138 (choice). 144 Dec. 1 134 " 140 RAILROAD SYSTEM OF MILWAUKEE. a iiis city is connected by railroads with every section of the Union. The Milwaukee and Mississippi, the Mil- waukee and Watertown, East and West, connecting the Lakes and the Mississippi River. The La Crosse and Milwaukee, and the Chicago, St. Paul, and Fond du Lac IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. . 93 railroads, each connecting her with Lake Superior. The railroad from Green Bay, through Milwaukee, to Chicago, commonly called the Lake Shore road, is to her what the Hudson River railway is to Troy and Albany, in the State of New York. Other railroads are projected, either new routes or old ones, to intersect the country in various direc- tions. Some of these, doubtless, will be carried through, although the period of their completion is more distant than of those above-named. IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. Milwaukee is the market for the greater part of the products of Wisconsin. Steamboats, and other vessels navigating the lake, touch here on their way to and from Detroit, and points on Lake Erie, and the St. Lawrence and Wclland Canals. It is the principal port of entry of the district of the same name, comprising about 100 miles of the western shore of Lake Michigan. This tonnage, belonging to the district of Milwaukee, December 31st, 1856, was as follows : Total tonnage of Steamers 1,869-32 " " Propellers 705-54 " " Barks 1,21522 " " Brigs 2,095-17 " " Schooners 14,989-06 Total amount of tonnage 21,497-50 1854. 1855. 1856. Tonnage 12,000. 14,342. 21,497. Increase in two years S,874. The number of arrivals and departures for the year were 4,720, with an aggregate tonnage of 2,009,820; with 84,549 seamen on board. 94 MILWAUKEE, Arrivals of Vessels at the Port of Mihvaukee, during the navigation season of 1856. Steam Vessels. Sail Vessels. Total. In the month of April 61 60 121 " « May 117 131 268 « " June 119 247 366 " " July 187 138 325 " " Aug 194 184 378 " " Sept 1S5 152 337 " " Oct 149 126 275 « « Nov 71 76 147 « <■' Dec 8 18 26 Total 1091 1152 2243 Besides the additions to its fleet at the ship-yards, the Chicago and Mihvaukee line of steamers is now owned and registered at this port. RECAPITULATION. Total amount of Tonnage of the District of Milwaukee, Dec. 31st, 1856. Vessels. Tons. Steamers... 3 1,869-32 Propellers 2 705-54 Barks 3 1,215-22 Brigs 7 2,095-17 Schooners 90 15,581-83 Total 105 21,467-08 It would be an unpardonable omission, should we over- look the departure from this port of the Schooner Dean Richmond, with a cargo of wheat for Liverpool, England. This important event took place on the 21st of July, 1856, amid one of the most pleasant demonstrations, on the part of the mercantile community, ever made in this city. The Richmond was loaded at the warehouse of H. & J. F. Hill, IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. 95 on the Milwaukee River, with a cargo of selected club wheat. She was owned by C. Y. Richmond and Captain Pierce, and the cargo sent out by C. J. Kershaw, of Mon- treal. The vessel registered 377 tons, and took 14,000 bushels. She arrived at Liverpool on the 29th of Sep- tember, cargo and vessel in excellent condition. Thus was commenced, what will eventually prove to be of vast importance — direct trade with Europe, via the St. Law- rence and the Great Lakes. During the past year, the American and Western Trans- portation Companies have run daily lines of propellers between this port and Buffalo, on Lake Erie, and are ready to supply the wants of the freight traffic with every carrying facility necessary for the expeditious transaction of business. In 1856 the trade of this city with Oswego, on Lake Ontario, had more than doubled. Of three million bushels of wheat shipped from this port, one-third has found its way to Oswego. The trade with Canada has also largely increased ; a good share of the exports of flour and pork having gone to Canadian markets. The revenue collected at the Port of Milwaukee during the year 1856, up to December ISth, amounts to $205,992 40. Value of nidse. entered during same period, $895,848 00 Duty $26S,126 30 Value of goods remaining in warehouse on December 31st, 1855 161,064 00 Duty 49,931 10 Total $1,056,912 00 $318,057 40 Deduct value withdrawn and duty paid... 636,806 00 205,992 40 Value of merchandise remaining in ware- house, December 18th, 1856 ....". $420,106 00 $112,065 00 96 MILWAUKEE COMPAHATIVE DUTIES. Amount of Duties collected during the years 1855 and 1856. 1S65. 1856. January $11,259 90 $11,220 30 February 11,702 60 22,845 30 March 5,765 50 585 70 April 918 00 6,432 50 May 20,6S7 40 5,467 80 June 13,025 30 6,534 00 July 19,92190 19,507 60 August 9,138 70 19,056 80 September 12,645 30 16,70190 October 16,203 20 21,66140 November 27,093 00 38,588 70 December 25,467 60 37,390 60 Total $172,130 00 $205,992 60 Comparative Value of Imports at the Port of Milwaukee. Total, 1854 $11,124,000 " 1855 18,649,832 " 1856 27,974,748 Comparative Value of Exports. Total, 1851 $2,607,824 " 1S54 7,709,571 " 1855 17,329,531 " 1856 20,274,300 The imports and exports for the year 1856, for the Port of Milwaukee, do not represent, by many millions of dollars, the entire traffic of the city. It is estimated that the entire imports and exports, by lake and railroad, amount to $^5,000,000, or about one-fifth of the entire commerce of Lake Michigan. The completion of the railroads from Milwaukee to the Mississippi and Lake Superior, will at once double or treble the present extent of its commerce. MANUFACTURES. The manufactures of Milwaukee are yet in their infancy, but are annually increasing in variety and extent, and rising MANUFACTURES. 9T in importance. There are in this city some eighteen shops, employing from twelve to one hundred men each, and turning out an aggregate amount of $800,000 of work per annum. Fully one-half the present capital was added the past year, and no less than six of these establishments were new during the year 1856. Extensions and enlargements are contemplated for the present year to the amount of $300,000, besides several new establishments. ALE, BEER, ETC. During the year 1856, there were twenty-six breweries in operation in the city, manufacturing 75,000 barrels of ale and beer, the larger portion of which was lager beer. Of this amount, probably 30,000 barrels were sent from this city. The entire capital employed was about $1,000,000. Enlargements and extensions were made during the year to the amount of $250,000. The number of men employed is about 500, at average wages of $8 per week. BRICK-MAKING. Notwithstanding the demand from abroad for the beau- tiful Milwaukee brick has been unabated, still the con- sumption at home has been so great that but few have been exported. While, in 1856 there were manufactured 35,000,000, only 1,000,000 were exported. There are eight brick-yards in operation, employing about 300 men. FLOURING-MILLS. Large outlays, during the past year, have been made upon the flouring-mills of the city, causing them to remain idle a considerable portion of the time. The total amount of flour manufactured by the five mills, beside custom work, was 116,000 barrels. 9 98 MILWAUKEE. PORK AND BEEF PACKING. During the past year, the first Cattle Market ever opened in the city, was started by Messrs. Layton & Plankinton. It was commenced in August, and they sold, to the close of the year, about $60,000. The beef packing amounted to about the same as 1855, or about 10,000 bbls. About 100 men are employed in this business, at $1.50 per day, for the season. BOOTS AND SHOES. There has been a large increase in the manufacture of boots and shoes. The amount for the past year was $350,000, against $185,000 for the year before. There are 500 men employed, at average wages of $7 per week. CLOTHING. The manufacture of clothing, for the year 1856, nearly doubled that of 1855, and now amounts to $600,000. The number of hands employed by the wholesale houses is over 450, at average wages of $7.50 per week. SHIP BUILDING. During the first months of 1856, the amount of tonnage launched was 1600 — one propeller and five schooners. MISCELLANEOUS. There are many branches of industry that could be spoken of with interest, but the limits of this work forbid. It is satisfactory to notice that the manufacturers of Mil- waukee are so prosperous and successful. The advance- ment has been beyond all expectation, and bids fair to out- rival the past history of this industrious city. EARLY DAYS. 99 The total amount of the various manufactures in Milwaukee, for the year 1856, were $8,057,000 The total for the year 1855, were 5,590,000 " " " 1854, " 4,638,000 The merchants of Milwaukee are energetic and enter- prising ; its Board of Trade active, efficient, and attentive to its commercial and industrial interests. A report of the business of the city is annually published by its Secretary, and widely circulated. Much of its prosperity may be traced to the efforts of this Board, in addition to its ably- conducted newspaper press. From these returns it will be seen what a splendid future awaits Milwaukee. In a few years its population will have reached one hundred thousand. Every new development of trade, the railroads opened throughout the vast extent of country tributary to it, the commerce of the lakes — all add to its wealth, population, and importance. Tt is en- tering upon a career that will certainly place it on a level with the large commercial cities of the Eastern States. Should it not be the ambition of every citizen to make it worthy of its high destiny ? EARLY DAYS. Before closing this sketch of Milwaukee, it may be well to give a short account of her "early days," with a word or two in regard to Solomon Juneau, one of the "first settlers." Thirty-nine years ago this enterprising pioneer immi- grated from Canada, and built for himself a log cabin on the future site of this great city. For seventeen long years the " children of the forest" were his only neighbors. He kept a few goods suitable for their wants, and was not only the merchant of the place, but the only "white settler." It is very rare that, in these hurrying days, men live to 100 MILWAUKEE. see their anticipations realized — whether they strive to win a farm from the wilderness, or to found a city. But Solo- mon Juneau, the first white settler of Milwaukee, is a rare and an honored exception. He "still lives" — and as he treads alone the banks of that beautiful river, upon which he made his lodgment in the wilderness, with what feelings must he revert to the scenes of his early life ? The Indians with whom he traded — where are they ? Alas ! the story of the "red men" has become an " oft -told tale ; " it ex- cites little interest at the present day. They are gone ! The hardy pioneers who gradually clustered around the site of his cabin, and whom a life of mutual hardships and pri- vations converted into friends and neighbors, have also disappeared. They, too, have passed to "that undis- covered country, from whose bourne no traveller returns." No mark remains of the cabin of the "first settler." Iu its stead has sprung up, as if by some magic influence, a great and populous city. His early home is obliterated by the homes of thousands, and the clearing, in which his axe only was heard, now resounds with the busy hum of men, toiling together to realize their anticipations of for- tune and happiness, upon the spot where, less than forty years ago, he felled the first tree, to frame the home of the " pioneer. " Truly he has cause for wonder, and as the reminiscences of the past crowd upon his memory, and bring the lights of other days around him, he may well feel that he "treads alone" those now crowded* scenes, the solitary witness of the city's birth. He, too, approaches the termination of a varied and useful life ; let us hope that the end of the " pioneer" may be peaceful and happy. 1 l At the first charter election in the new city, Solomon Juneau was elected Mayor, which was a well-merited compliment to the "old pioneer." Subsequently he left Milwaukee and settled in Dodge EARLY DAYS. 101 " In the spring of 1835/ a Land Office being established at Green Bay, the land was brought into market, and Mr. Juneau purchased a small tract, consisting of about 160 acres, lying on the east side of the river, directly north of Wisconsin street. Previous to this time, G. H. Walker, Esq., had come and made a claim to what is now called Walker's Point, to which he subsequently obtained a title. Byron Kilbourn, Esq., about that time purchased a tract on the west side of the river, which has, from that time, been known by the name of ' Kilbourntown. ' Daniel Wells, Jr., W. W. Gilmore, Geo. D. Douscman, E. W. Edginton, T. C. Douseman, Geo. 0. Tiffany, D. H. Rich- ards, Wm. Brown, Jr., Milo Jones, Enoch Darling, and others, immigrated about the same time, and made largo purchases of lands. In the course of the summer a num- ber of good buildings were erected, and a great many Eastern speculators came and bought lands at high prices. Mr. Juneau, about this time, sold an undivided interest in his lands to Morgan T. Martin. He built a fine dwelling- house, on the lot where Mitchel's Banking House now stands ; also a large store and warehouse, on what is now- known as 'Ludington's Corner.' In 1836 he was doing a large business, both in selling goods and lots. During that season, $300,000 worth of goods had been trans- ported there to sell. Ground-rents were nearly as high as at present. A merchant with a stock of goods would arrive one day, and by the next day noon he would have a store completed to open. Business was done on the Cali- fornia principle. Stores were usually built of rough boards, retaining the 'grass floor,' and, in several instances, a blanket was hung up for a partition, and one half of the county, 'where he still resides. He has now a large family, and we learn that by hard labor he obtains a comfortable living. 1 First Annual Report of the Wisconsin Historical Society. 9* 102 MILWAUKEE. tenement rented to another for a dollar a day. The town was flooded with speculators, and all made money until the present residents left, and navigation closed, when a sud- den change came 'o'er the spirit of their dreams.' The town was left with a large stock of goods, and but few inhabitants. Merchants and other business men enjoyed the winter in the best possible manner During the fall quite a large number of settlers had arrived, of the right stamp, whom space will not allow us to mention. All had been engaged in the land business, and had plenty of money left to winter on. " The spring of lSSt disappointed all our anticipations. A general stagnation in business prevailed in all directions. Our currency was mostly of the Michigan ' wild cat' stamp (no longer a legal tender). There was no sale of real estate. " The second payments were becoming due on pur- chases of real estate, and all who supposed themselves rich in lands were not only destitute of money, but the means of raising it. Some, who were able to hold on, kept their property until they could get a handsome advance, while the majority were compelled to sell for what they could get, and bankruptcy was the inevitable result. "At this time there were but a few settlements in the interior ; but the hard times, which continued through the years 1837-8, induced many to leave Milwaukee and locate a ' claim. ' The lands between the Milwaukee and Rock rivers were then surveyed, but were not brought into mar- ket until the fall of 1839. During this time they had be- come thickly settled, and many of them quite valuable. The hard times at the East had led numbers of persons to seek a home in the West; and in the fall of 1839, when those lands came into market, many of them had been so improved that they were worth from $10 to $100 an acre, while the occupants had not the first 'red cent' to buy i9HPi!l r, v T ii: iik! I ii'Plii MADISON. 103 them. Consequently, a large proportion of the settlers were compelled to either sell their improvements for what they could get, or pay from 25 to 50 per cent, for money to enter their lands. "About this time Alex. Mitchell, Harvey Burchard, the Messrs. Ludington, E. Eldred, and other capitalists, came to Milwaukee, and purchased lots at $100 each, that had previously been sold from $1000 to $1500, and are now selling from $5000 to $15,000 each. From that day to this, 'the rise and progress' of Milwaukee has been steady and onward. The price of land has continued to advance with the increase of business, and nearly all who com- menced business here at that time, and continued to the uresent, have become wealthy and independent." MADISON, THE CAPITAL OF WISCONSIN. The City of Madison, the capital of Wisconsin, and seat of justice of Dane, the largest and most productive county in the State, is situated on a rising ground, between two lovely lakes, and is the most magnificent site of any inland town in the United States. On the northwest is Lake Mendota, nine miles long and six wide ; on the east Lake Monona, five miles long and three wide. The city is cele- brated for the beauty, health, and pleasantness of its loca- tion ; commanding, as it does, a view of nearly every cha- racteristic of country peculiar to the West — the prairie, oak opening, mound, lake, and woodland. The surface of the ground is somewhat uneven, but iu no place too abrupt for building purposes. The space between these lakes is a mile in width, rising gently as it leaves their banks to an altitude of about seventy feet, and is then alternately depressed and elevated, making the site of the city a series of gently undulating swells. On the most 104 MADISON. elevated ground is the State House, in the centre of one of Nature's Parks of fifteen acres, overlooking the " Four Lakes" and the surrounding city. From this the streets diverge in every direction, with a gradual descent on all sides. To the west, about a mile distant, is the State Univer- sity, in the midst of a park of 40 acres, crowning a beau- tiful eminence. On the south side of Lake Monona is a spacious Water-Cure establishment, surrounded by an ex- tensive grove, and presenting a very striking appearance on approaching the city. Around Madison, in every di- rection, is a well-cultivated, undulating country, which is fast being occupied by pleasant homes. Daniel S. Curtiss, in his graphic work entitled Western Portraiture, has given us his impressions of Madison, as follows : " At §ome time in our travels or observations, all of us have met with situations that were at once indelibly impressed upon the fancy as the paragon of all out-door loveliness and beauty — the place with ■which all others were contrasted, and to which they must bear some respectable degree of resemblance to be esteemed delightful loca- tions. With many persons, Madison is that paragon of landscape scenery. As the brilliant diamond, chased around with changing borders, which sparkles on the swelling vestment of some queenly woman, so this picturesque city, with its varied scenery, sits the coronal gem on the broad and rolling bosom of this rich and bloom- ing State." The Chicago Journal thus candidly and truthfully speaks of the " Four Lake Country : ••For a long time, 'as beautiful as Madison' has been a household word among tourists in the Northwest, but it is only a few weeks since we looked, for the first time, upon this piece of embossed work; embossed, as if Nature feared for the blindness of humanity, and so had given in raised characters this rare passage of poetry. IMPRESSIONS OF STRANGERS. 105 " True, the season in winch we saw it was unfavorable : the wind was keen, and blew from some open window of the north; great patches of snow alternated with patches of withered grass; great panes of ice were set in over the lakes; the groves were leafless and birdless, and our approach toward the region had been slow and tedious. " But notwithstanding all these discomforts, the capabilities of Madison could not be altogether disguised. Nobody could help seeing what a week of merry May, or a day or two of leafy June could do for its swelling, wood-crowned hills, its wide sweeps of crystal -water, its beautiful gardens, and its broad avenues. Do what one will with a floor of a prairie ; enamel it with flowers, dot it with shrubbery, meander it with paths, and, despite all, it is a flat still. You cannot conceal its poverty of resources; brooks will riot run in it; smile it may, but it never shows a dimple ; rocks there are none for rustic seats, nor mosses to cover them if there were; there are no trees of God's planting; there are no surprises of beauty, for all is revealed at a single glance. Not so Madison ; it is rich in capa- bilities ; almost all its loveliness is furnished ready to hand, and men have nothing to do but live in it. " Located upon a grand billow of an isthmus, little less than a mile in width, between two sheets of water, Lake Mendota and Lake Monona, one containing some fifteen square miles, and the other about fifty ; with its park -like surroundings, undulating away in the distance; the clusters of groves, and sweeps of lawn, and glimpses of water; on- the west Lake Mendota, with its promontory, sacred to the. uses of friendship, ' Pic-nic Point;' on the east Monona; here Waubesa, there Kegonoa, the Yahara, and yonder Wingra and Peshugo; as if, at some time, the toilet-glass of the evening star had been shattered by the red 'planet Mars,' or some such turbulent fellow in the planetary court, and so the fragments were strewn over the landscape just there ; with all these features, and such as these, one may wander far through many a summer's day ere he will find a place like Madison, at which he can exclaim as did the Indian, enamored with the Paradise upon which he had noiselessly stolen, 'Alabama!' — here we rest." Bayard Taylor wrote to the New York Weekly Tribune, in May, 1855, an account of his adventures in the West, in which he made the folio win 2: mention of Madison : 106 MADISON. "For natural beauty of situation, Madison surpasses any Western town I have seen. It is built on a narrow isthmus, between the Third and Fourth Lakes. On the summit of a mound stands the State House, in the centre of a handsome square of fourteen acres, from which broad, smooth streets diverge, with a gradual descent on all sides. To the west, and about a mile distant, stands the Uni- versity, on the summit of a hill, or mound, of about equal height. The Madisonians count seven hills, but I could not make them all out distinctly, nor do I think it necessary to the beauty of the place that it should have a forced resemblance to Rome. In one respect it is equal — in a soft, beautiful, cream-colored stone, which furnishes the noblest building material. Many of the business blocks and private houses display architectural taste." SETTLEMENT AND GROWTH. "The settlement of Madison," 1 observes the Hon. A. A. Bird, in his recent inaugural address as Mayor, "was commenced in April, 1837. At that period, almost all the entire territory between Lake Michigan and the Missis- sippi river, was a wild and unsettled country, inhabited only by the ' Sons of the Forest. ' At that time, and during a few subsequent years, there was a greater number of Indians at Madison, and in what was then termed the 'Four Lake Country,' than at any other point south of the Wisconsin river. They seemed to cling to Madison, and its beautiful lakes, with a determination not to leave until called to the ' Spirit land.' These beautiful lakes, the fisheries, and game, the splendid country bordering on the lakes, the hills, dales, and groves, had become so associ- ated with their very being, that it was to them a paradise on earth. 1 This description of Madison is partly taken from an interesting pamphlet, compiled by Lyman C. Draper, Esq., Cor. Secretary of the State Historical Society of Wisconsin, and printed by order of the Common Council of the city. EARLY SETTLEMENT. 107 "The General Government required the removal of the Indians to the country west of the Mississippi. It was found necessary to procure the aid of the army in removing them to their homes, and it was a difficult matter for the soldiers to collect them together. It was a touching scene to witness the departure of those who had spent a lifetime in a land made so beautiful by nature, from which they were now to be exiled. The different emotions exhibited by these ' Sons of the Forest,' were worthy the pencil of the painter. They were leaving the land of their fathers, the spot dearest to them on earth : passing westward, upon reaching University Hill, they took a long and last fare- well of the spot endeared to them by early associations. The groves and lakes on which they had sported from childhood, where they had followed the flying deer, and impelled the light canoe, were to be seen no more." The site of Madison attracted the attention of Hon. James II. Doty, as early as 1832. In the spring of 1836, in company with Hon. S. T. Mason, of Detroit, he pur- chased the tract of land occupied by the present city. The fir at cost of this tract was about $1500. The Territo- rial Legislature, which met at Belmont, Lafayette County, the next winter, passed an act locating the capital here, and John Catlin and Moses M. Strong staked out the centre of the village in February of the same winter. In the meantime, commissioners were appointed by the General Government to construct the capitol edifice. Eben Peck was sent on, with his family, to erect a house, where the men, employed in building the capitol, might board and lodge, and was the first settler at Madison. He arrived on the 14th of April, in 1837, and put up a log house, which remains standing to this day upon its original site, on block 107, Butler Street. This was, for about a year, the only public house in Madison. 108 MADISON. On the 10th of June succeeding, A. A. Bird, the acting commissioner for constructing the capitol, accompanied by a party of thirty-six workmen, arrived. There was no road, at that time, from Milwaukee to the capital, and the party were compelled to make one for their teams and wagons as they came along. Among the party that came with Bird, was Darwin Clark, Charles Bird, David Hyer, and John Pierce ; the latter being the second settler with a family. On the same day that this party reached Madison, Simeon Mills, now a resident of Madison, arrived from Chicago. John Catlin had been appointed postmaster, and Mr. M. acted as his deputy. He erected a block building, fifteen feet square, and in this opened the post-office, and the first store in Madison. The building is yet extant, and at present stands in the rear of a blacksmith's shop, and is used as a coal-house. During the following month, John Catlin arrived, and was the first member of the legal profession that settled in Madison. Wm. N. Seymour came during the same season, and was the second lawyer in the place. The workmen upon the capitol proceeded at once to procure stone and timber for that edifice, and, on the Fourth of July, the corner-stone was laid with due cere- mony. The first frame building erected was a small office for the acting commissioner ; the first frame dwelling was built by A. A. Bird. The boards used in these buildings were made by hand. A steam saw-mill, to saw lumber for the capitol, was built the same season on the shore of Lake Mendota, just below the the termination of Pinkney Street. In the month of September, of the same year, John Stone arrived, being the third settler with a family. A Methodist SETTLEMENT AND GROWTH. 109 clergyman, the Rev. Mr. Stebbins, then Presiding Elder of the Territory, daring the same mouth preached the first sermon delivered in Madison. Four families, with their inmates and guests, constituted the entire population of Madison, and, with two or three families at Blue Mounds, the whole population of Dane County daring the winter of 1837—8. For a number of years the growth of the village was slow. Immediately after the location of the capital, all the lands in the vicinity were entered by speculators, and lots and land were held at a prospective value. The location being at a central point between the Mississippi and Lake Michigan, the advancing army of immigrants, on either hand, found a wide, fertile, and beautiful extent of country, at that time nearer market, and therefore holding out supe- rior attractions to the agriculturist. They did not, conse- quent]}', care to indulge the speculators' appetites for fancy prices. This condition of affairs continued until 1848. In the meantime, the fertile valley of Rock River had been filled with settlers, and immigration began to turn into Dane County, which possesses a soil as bountiful, and a surface of country as attractive, as any county in the State, but which, before it was tapped by railroads, was too far from market to render agriculture remunerative. The beginning of the real prosperity and growth of Madison commenced with the admission of the State into the Union, in 1848. The Constitutional Convention then permanently located the capital there ; until that time there had been fears of its removal, and capitalists had hesitated to invest their money in the vicinity. Since that period, its progress in wealth and population has been rapid and constant. A period of less than twenty-one vears has elapsed 10 110 MADISON. since Eben Peck, the first settler of Madison, arrived there with his family. The only other settlers, within the present limits of Dane County, were Ebenezer Brigham and Abel Rasdel. At the close of the next nine years, we find Madison with a population of 283, and Dane County 8289 ; and the following nine years swelled the population of Madison to nearly ^000, in February, 1855, and to about 12,000 at the present date. Such are the results produced in twenty years, some of which were periods utterly unfavorable to progress and settlement. Until the past three years it had no railroad facilities ; produce, from its long distance from market, would scarcely recompense the toiling farmer for his labor in its production ; the whole population, with scarcely an exception, were struggling in poverty against these discouraging and depressing influ- ences — and yet, despite them all, Madison and Dane County have made astonishing advances in all the elements of wealth and greatness. These days and years of poverty, hardship, and depression, have forever passed away, and our political metropolis and empire county may now safely calculate on continued and increasing prosperity. Dane County has an area of about 1250 square miles, or nearly 800,000 acres of land. Dating back from 1831, when Madison received its first settler, and when this county had but two families, we find that it has increased during the first seven years, up to 1844, about fifty per cent, annually, and from 1844 to 1850, when the population was 16,500, the total increase for that period was over three hundred per cent. Since 1850, the population of the county has nearly. tripled, and may be safely estimated at 48,000. Let us make some moderate estimates of the population of Dane County for the next ten years, based upon the present population of 48,000 : CAPABILITIES AND DESTINY. Ill In 1857, add one-fifth increase 4S,000 In 1858, " one-sixth " 56,000 In 1859, " one-seventh " 64.000 In 1860, " one-eighth " 72,000 In 1S61, " one-ninth " 80,000 In 1862, " one-tenth " 88,000 In 1863, " one-eleventh " 96,000 In 1864, " one-twelfth " 104.000 In 1865, " one-thirt'nth " 112,000 In 1S66, " one-fourt'nth " 120,000 The great Empire State of Wisconsin is well able to sustain a far greater population than that here indicated. But one-sixth of the land in the county is yet settled, and all is susceptible of culture ; and, were the other five-sixths settled at the same ratio per square mile, we should exhibit a population of 250,000 people. In 1755, the State of Rhode Island, slightly larger than Dane County, having an area of 1300 square miles, had a population of 35,000 — about the same as this county pos- sessed in 1855 ; showing that Rhode Island was one hun- dred and nineteen years in attaining a population which Dane County reached in eighteen years. The city of Providence, in 1800, just one hundred and sixty-four years after its first settlement, exhibited a population of 7 GOO — while Madison has reached that number in eighteen years. In the past half century, Rhode Island has slightly more than doubled her population, while Dane County has nearly tripled hers in the last seven years ; and Providence, during the same period, has, upon an average, doubled its numbers once in twenty years, while Madison has doubled its popu- lation, upon an average, once in every two and a half years. These are facts which any one, curious in such sta- tistical contrasts, may easily put to the test by a proper reference to the official documents in our public libraries. Nor is this a solitary instance — the same careful contrasts 112 MADISON. with Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Albany, or almost any other old settled place, will exhibit the growth of Madison and Dane County in quite as favorable a point of view. The question may very naturally be asked by the cautious inquirer, what is there to justify the belief that Dane County, with its surroundings, is able to sustain a city of twenty or perhaps fifty thousand people ? Let us again recur to the experience of other cities and counties. If, then, Rhode Island can and does support her flourishing capital, having a population of one-fourth of the whole State, Dane County, with superior advantages in her favor, can do at least as well. By the census of 1850, there were 73,000 acres of land returned as improved in Dane County, which we may presume has increased by this time to about 1-10,000 — only about one-sixth of the whole. Let, then, the whole be settled, and only as sparsely per acre as that part now improved, and we should have six times the present population of 45,000, which would be 270,000. And if the present county population of 45,000 supports Madison, with 12,000 inhabitants, then a population of 270,000 would give to Madison a ratio of 65,000 people. These figures may startle some — for there are always a goodly number in every community, who, while they are amazed at the progress of the past, can never make it a criterion by which to judge the future. Aside from the capital, there are thirty-four townships in Dane County, whose present wealth may be stated as follows : The improved farms, uncultivated lands, and per- sonal property of the resident farmers, will average to-day at least $500,000 to a township, making a total of $17,000,000. Add, for Madison, real estate and personal property, at least $8,000,000. This would make the total wealth of the county $25,000,000. RAILROADS. 113 There are twenty-five wagon-roads, and seventeen dif- ferent mail and stage routes, diverging in every direction from Madison. Over seven hundred loaded teams have arrived here in a single day, bringing from ten to fifteen thousand bushels of wheat to market, with large quantities of other produce. Nearly 100,000 bushels of wheat alone were marketed here in a single year. It is, pre-eminently, the great railroad centre of Wis- consin, and enjoys, in an enviable degree, all those pecu- liarly favorable advantages. Many of the Western cities rely wholly upon their projected railroads for growth and prosperity. But the roads and connections of Madison are real and bona fide, connecting it with every section of the Union. Four great lines diverge here : the Milwaukee and Mississippi ; the Milwaukee, Watertown, and Madison ; East and West, connecting the lakes with the Mississippi River; and the La Crosse and Land-Grant Roads, running from Madison to Lake St. Croix and the City of Superior, at the head of the lake. Arrangements are now being made for the extension of the great Illinois Central Rail- road, from Freeport, Illinois, to this city, thus giving a direct communication with Mobile and the Gulf of Mexico. The system connects with the Chicago, Fond du Lac, and Superior Road, on the east and north, and the Beloit and Madison Road on the south. There is no point in the State so readily accessible in every direction, as Madison, as it lies on the shortest route from New York, Philadel- phia, Boston, Chicago, or Milwaukee, to the Mississippi River. An abundant supply of building-material is found here. The most beautiful stone, easily quarried and cut, abounds in its immediate vicinity. Bricks may be made to an un- limited extent, and timber of all kinds can be commanded whenever needed for use. 10* 114 MADISON. It is estimated that about $1,000,000 will be expended in Madison, and its vicinity, this year, upon public build- ings, depots, and railroads. The most prominent buildings and improvements, to be immediately commenced, are given in the following table, with their least possible cost : University (main edifice) $40,000 Capitol extension 100,000 U. S. Court Room and Post Office 50,000 City Hall 25,000 Four School Houses 21,000 Congregational Church 20,000 Episcopal Church 16,000 Catholic Church 10,000 Insane Asylum 100,000 Railroad Depots, at least 15,000 " Total $400,000 From careful estimates made, it was found that the value of merchandise, lumber, produce,' wood, < Hod, the lands remaining to the Government along the route, will no doubt be pre-empted the whole distance, and the country generally advanced in improvements. The 1 For a description of these lands, see page 42. 140 LA CROSSE AND land then owned by this Company will be the only land in market, and will readily command the highest prices ; and being sold on a long credit, with small annual jjayments, will enable the better class of actual settlers to purchase at fair prices. " Sales being made in this manner, and subject to the payment of seven per centum per annum interest, and the principal in a term of years, will readily produce the following results : "10,000 acres, emlirnoingvillage-sites, valuable water-powers, mines, &c, at. $100 per acre $1,000,000 • 200.000 acres first-class farming-land near the line, with smaller water-powers and other privileges, $20 per acre, 4,000,000 300,000 acres of farming-lands, &e., further from the road, $15 per acre 4,500,000 350,000 acres of farming-lands, at still greater distance from the road, $10 per acre 3,500,000 123,000 acres ot inferior land, $5 per acre 615,000 Total $13,615,000 "These lands are among the most valuable in the western country, and, instead of falling below, their value will exceed the above estimate. No one acquainted with the rapid growth and improvement of the West, can entertain a doubt that they will command a price far above that we have given. •'The length of road from Madison to St. Croix is 256 miles ; from Portage City to La Crosse is 101 miles ; from which deduct 36 miles, which, in common with the other, leaves 65 miles to complete the road to La Crosse ; adding to this, 20 miles finished from Columbus to the intersection of the La Crosse Road, gives a total of 341 miles to be constructed in the completion of our system. Estimating the cost at $30,000 per mile, to include all MILWAUKEE RAILROAD. 141 expenses, would give a grand total of $10,230,000, which is $3,385,000 less than the value of the land alone. "A mere glance at the map exhibits our commanding position, and carries conviction to the mind without argu- ment, that it is the only great artery along which must flow the business of the largest scope of the Jin est country which can be found tributary to anyone road in the United States. The business of the Upper Mississippi surprises every one who visits that region. There are now some fifty steamboats plying on the river above Galena, and all doing a full and profitable business. The travel alone, to and from there, which would pass over the railroad at this time, if completed to La Crosse, would make it one of the best paying roads in the country." This branch will be completed in less than a year, and the company in posses- sion of the most northerly through and direct route from the Lake to the Mississippi River, and of course take the greatest part of the through travel, in addition to the freight and way business of one of the finest farming-districts in the world. When this division is completed, a railroad will have been commenced on the west bank of the Mississippi, across the vast expanse of plain some 500 miles, making tributary to it the southern part of Minnesota ; while from the St. Croix and Lake Superior Road, a branch to St. Paul will be in the full tide of successful operation ; and thence extending through the central part of Minnesota, on the great route towards the Pacific. Railroad facilities will be rapidly furnished, bringing to the La Crosse and Mil- waukee Road the rich tribute of the central tract of that State; while yet again, the St. Croix and Lake Superior division, to the City of Superior, will bring the valuable trade of Northern Wisconsin, Michigan, and Minnesota, 142 CHICAGO, ST. PAUL, AND besides the vast amount of freight and pleasure-travel which will land at this young and rising city. " The position and facilities of the La Crosse and Mil- waukee Railroad will be such, as almost with certainty give it the greatest part of the trade of the Upper Missis- sippi, embracing the whole of Minnesota and one-half of Wisconsin, both equal to an area of two of the largest States in the Union, and an amount of business beyond computation." The earnings of the La Crosse and Milwaukee Road, as far as completed, in 1856, have considerably exceeded the estimates, and, in fact,' have been greater than can be shown in the history of any railroad in America, of the same distance and first year of its operation. The total amount, up to 1857, was $505,083 86. The earnings of the eastern division, for May, 1857, were $63,221 70, being an increase of $21,745 77 over May, 1856. THE CHICAGO, ST. PAUL, AND POND DU LAC RAILROAD. The Legislature of Wisconsin conferred the Eastern Grant of lands, as we have before mentioned, upon a new company of citizens of this State alone, incorporated as the "Wisconsin and Superior Railroad Company." As this line was the natural continuation of the Chicago, St. Paul, and Fond du Lac Company, which was then engaged in constructing its road north of Fond du Lac, arrangements were mutually agreed upon for uniting the interests of the two companies. The subjoined Act of the Legislature was passed, and approved February 12th, 1857, authorizing them to consolidate : Section 1. The Chicago, St. Paul, and Fond du Lac Railroad Company, a corporation created under the laws of the States of Illi- 1 From the Annual Report of its Directors. FOND DTJ LAC RAILROAD. 143 nois and Wisconsin, by the consolidation of the Illinois and Wisconsin Railroad Company in the State of Illinois, and the Rock River Valley Union Railroad Company in the State of Wisconsin, and the Wiscon- sin and Superior Railroad Company, a corporation created by the laws of Wisconsin, are hereby authorized and empowered to consoli- date the capital-stock of the two companies, and to make the two companies one, and to place the affairs and property of the two com- panies under the direction of one board of directors, &c. Sect. 2. The said consolidated company thus created shall be, and is hereby declared to be a body politic and corporate, under the name of The Chicago, St. Paul, and Fond du Lac Railroad Com- pany, &c. Sect. 3. The said consolidated company, hereby created, shall be entitled to, and invested with, the title and ownership of all the lands, and all and singular the rights, privileges, and immunities granted or conferred by the Act of Congress, approved June 3d, A. D. 1856, entitled "An Act granting public lands to the State of Wisconsin, to aid in the construction of railroads in said State," to the extent of the whole of the lands granted by said Act of Congress, for the pur- pose of aiding in the construction of a railroad from Fond du Lac, on Lake Winnebago, northerly to the State line, as fully and completely as the said Wisconsin and Lake Superior Railroad Company is, by its charter, entitled to and invested with the same ; subject, however, to all the terms, conditions, restrictions, limitations, impositions, duties, and obligations, contained in the charter of said Wisconsin and Superior Railroad Company, and in the said Act of Congress, as far as the same are applicable to the consolidated company hereby created, &c. "The State of Michigan also received a grant of land from Congress, 'to aid in the construction of railroads from Little Bay de Noquet to Marquette, and thence to Outonagon, and from the two last-named places to the Wisconsin State line ; also from Amboy, by Hillsdale and Lansing, and from Grand Rapids to some point on or near Traverse Bay ; also from Grand Haven and Pere Marquette to Flint, and thence to Port Huron, every alternate section of land, designated by odd numbers, for six sections in width, on each side of each of said roads. ' 144 CHICAGO, ST. PAUL, AND "The Legislature of Michigan, which had the disposal of the lands, distributed them among several companies. That portion of the grant pertaining to the route from Marquette, on Lake Superior, to the State line of Wis- consin, was donated to the Marquette and State-Line Rail- road Company, a corporation organized under the general railroad laws of Michigan ; and that portion of the grant extending from Ontonagon to the State line was donated to the Ontonagon and State-Line Railroad Company, organized in like manner. " In accordance with the provisions contained in the said several charters, and also by virtue of special acts of the Legislatures of Wisconsin and Michigan, authorizing the same, the Chicago, St. Paul, and Fond du Lac Company, and the Marquette and State-Line Railroad Company, and the Ontonagon and State-Line Company, were con- solidated, and thereby this company became fully invested generally with all the chartered rights and properties of those companies, and particularly with all the rights to the land-grant applicable to these lines of road. " Prior to its consolidation with this company, the Marquette and State-Line Company had contracted for the purchase of a railroad about seventeen miles in length, from Marquette to the iron mines directly on their general route to the State line of Wisconsin, and by virtue of this consolidation, this company becomes possessed of said road, and also of valuable contracts, with several large mining companies in that section, for transporting iron-ore from the mines to the harbor of Marquette. This section of the road, it is supposed, will be in full operation to the iron mountain in July of the present year. " The distauce from Fond du Lac (where the land-grant commences,) to the State line of Michigan, nearly due north, is about one hundred and sixty-five miles, (as ascer- FOND DU LAC RAILROAD. 145 tained from a recent survey of the route by a corps of engineers,) and from the State line to Marquette, about seventy-five miles ; and from the State line to Ontonagon, about ninety miles, making, in all, three hundred and thirty miles of land-grant road, upon the most direct and natural route to the copper and iron harbors of Lake Supe- rior. The Act of Congress gives every alternate section of land, for six sections in width, on either side of the road ; and in case of deficiency of land within that limit, such deficiency may be supplied by selecting lands on either side for fifteen miles, allowing a width, for such selections, of thirty miles — the entire length of the road. This, as will be seen, amounts to three thousand eight hundred and forty acres of land for every mile of railroad, and the whole distance being three hundred and thirty miles, makes one million two hundred and sixty-seven thousand acres. Besides this, the company have the right, by the charter, of running a road north-westerly to the west end of Lake Superior, within the State of Wisconsin, to which the grant of land also attaches. This can be done at any time within ten years ; and, if done, will add about 900,000 acres more to the lands of the company. This is truly a rich and munificent gift from the General Government to aid these railroad enterprises. " In regard to the cost of construction of the road, and the value of these lands, Mr. S. F. Johnston, the engineer under whose superintendence the explorations were made, says that ' a railroad can be built on our general route, northerly, cheaply, and with great ease ; that the snow is less an obstruction to the operation of a railroad than on the prairies of Illinois, for the reason that it does not drift at all, even on the highest lands.' He also reports that, in some localities, the needle of the compass was materially affected by magnetic iron-ore. The explorations 13 146 CHICAGO, ST. PAUL, AND heretofore made by engineers, from Ontonagon and Mar- quette, show their respective routes to be feasible for a railroad, and the land good, heavily timbered, with very valuable varieties ; and also refer to the well-known fact, that inexhaustible deposits of pure copper and iron ore exist along the lines of road. The extensive forests of pine, for which Northern Wisconsin is celebrated, and through which the contemplated line will pass, cannot fail to be of great value, especially when the road is finished through them. The rapid and continually-increasing growth and settlement of the area of country south of the line above indicated, together with the already marked inroads now being made upon the forests north of that line by the enormous amount of timber annually cut there, prove that these lands will be very valuable. On or near the Brule River, on the route of this road, are inexhaustible beds of the finest quality of slate and marble. As there are no other slate-quarries within many hundred miles south and west, eventually this slate will be sent by rail- road, southerly, in large quantities, for roofing and other purposes ; of course, this land must be valuable, and much of it- will be owned by the company. "But the most valuable are the mineral lands. Pure, unadulterated copper ' is found along the whole trap-range, extending from Montreal River, north-easterly, past Onto- nagon harbor, nearly parallel with the southern shore of the lakes, and about fifteen to twenty-five miles from it, a distance of nearly one hundred and fifty miles, to the extre- mity of Keweenaw Point." W. B. Ogden, Esq., President of the Chicago, St. Paul, and Fond du Lac Railroad Company, in a circular-letter to the stockholders, says : " Preliminary surveys have been 1 A general description of this copper-region -will be found in the Second Part of this -work. FOND DU LAC RAILROAD. 147 made of these lines, which show them entirely feasible for a railroad, at an average cost of about $25,000 per mile, and running through a peculiarly healthful region of good farming and valuable timber and mineral lands. We shall obtain the full quota of lands to which we are entitled under the Act of Congress, viz. : 3,840 acres per mile, and all (after excluding all swamp and refuse lands granted to the State,) within ten miles of our road. Many of these lands have a special value, in addition to their worth for farming purposes. With the exception of the prairie region in the vicinity of the southern part of the road, and occasional meadows and openings all along it, the whole line north from Appleton (some forty miles north of Fond du Lac,) passes over lands covered with fine white pine and other valuable timber, well watered, and abounding in great wealth of iron, copper, slate, and marble. " The Marquette line passes over superior and extensive slate-quarries of various colors, and the only known acces- sible slate west of Vermont, for the supply, over our road, of the Great Northwest and the Valley of the Mississippi. It also passes over and along the noted Lake Superior Iron Range, extending from fourteen to fifty miles in width, north and south, and over one hundred miles in length, east and west, and producing, as proved by repeated practical analysis, experiment, and use, the finest iron in the world. A single known bed of it, directly on the line of this road, is capable, according to the United States Geological Survey and official Government Report, ' of supplying the world for ages. ' "On the Marquette line, seventeen miles. of road are already constructed, and become our property by this con- solidation, with an ample and paying business already at hand, in the transportation of ore and iron to the Lake at 148 CHICAGO, ST. PAUL, AND Marquette. There are single sections of iron-ore land, along this line, which could not be purchased for $100,000. " The Ontonagon line passes over the great Lake Superior copper and mining region, and directly past the rich Min- nesota mine, with its recent wonderful discoveries of im- mense masses and columns of solid virgin copper. A section of land covering this mine has now a market value of near $1,500,000. " The Government having made no reserve of minerals to itself, and as our line of road penetrates to the interior of this region, and opens a country hitherto (for want of roads,) comparatively unoccupied, we shall, doubtless, in locating our lands, obtain, in addition to extensive tracts of fine pine timber-lands, many thousands of acres of great value on account of the minerals they contain. As often as every ten miles along the entire line, towns and villages will spring up, and give great value to our adjoining lands for villages and town lots. "The Illinois Central Railroad Company, in their last report, value their remaining unsold lands, taking their large actual sales as a standard, at $13 52 per acre, and express great confidence that a larger price will be realized. " If we estimate our lands at the same rate, as with all their wealth of timber and minerals we may safely do, we have — "1,267.200 acres, at $13 50 per acre, worth $17,107,200 The 330 miles of road to be constructed by these land-', at $25,000 per mile, will cost 8,250,00C Leaving a surplus of $S,S57,200 " On this basis there is value enough in these lands, not only to build the 330 miles of road north of Fond du Lac, but to reimburse to our stockholders their entire outlay in building their road from Chicago to Fond du Lac. FOND DU LAC RAILROAD. 149 "The company have ten years' time in which to complete the line to Lake Superior, and their lands are free from all taxes during these ten years, unless pre- viously sold by the company. The company have also the right of way, free of cost, through all public lands, and all lands reserved by Government in any manner or for any purpose. "And this line, when constructed, will not want for busi- ness. A large population have already gathered in the vicinity of Ontonagon and Marquette, and heavy invest- ments have been made in mining the copper and iron, which business is rapidly increasing. Every year sends a powerful emigration thither ; and these emigrants, while they develop the country, will draw their supplies from the prairies of Wisconsin and Illinois. As the mining resources of the region are developed, and it becomes easily acces- sible by our road, this emigration will increase accordingly. Manufacturing establishments will, of necessity, grow out of the mining operations. The Great West will look mainly to the Lake Superior district for its supplies of copper, iron, and slate, as they will be delivered over our road at all seasons of the year, and at greatly reduced cost. The carrying trade of lumber, iron, slate, and marble, from our lands and the line of our road southerly, and of the supplies of all sorts needed upon it in return, will give full occupation for the entire capacity of the road. " The construction of a railroad from this extraordinary lumber and mineral region south, as a means of intercourse with the important lake cities on the western shore of Lake Michigan and the great markets of the country, would be an attractive investment of capital, without regard to the land grant. " Some of the most substantial and lucrative roads and 13* 150 CHICAGO, ST. PAUL, AND FOND DU LAC RAILROAD. improvements of the country have been constructed ex- pressly for the accommodation of such a traffic ; and there is not one of them where the object to be attained compares, in extent and inexhaustible resources, for all time to come, with ours. "In another respect this road will compare favorably with other roads'of the country, viz. : in cheapness of cost — the grades are easy, the country favorable for con- struction, the materials for ties and other structures on the line abundant, the right of way furnished without cost. "The company have also a charter for a road north- westerly from the above north and south line to St. Louis River, or the west end of Lake Superior, with the land- grant privilege attaching to it — the whole distance sup- posed to be about 200 miles. At some future day, and not far distant either, a line of road from the City of Supe- rior, south-easterly, to our north and sou^h line, may not only be demanded by the wants of that section, but be a most essential tributary to our main line towards Chicago. In such event, if our other roads to Marquette and Onto- nagon should then be completed, it might be very important and indispensable for the company to have the benefit of the land-grant along its line." The earnings of this road, while in course of construction to Janesville, were, for the first eight months of 1856, $166,198 98. The road was opened to Janesville in Sep- tember, and the earnings on this portion of the line were, for the eight months following, $288,048 33; and for the month of May, 185*7, $60,168 32, being an increase over the corresponding month of the preceding year, of $30,655 31. The connection with the Milwaukee and Mississippi Road was made on the 11th of May, 1857, thus opening a through route to the Mississippi, at Prairie du Chien, and promising a very large increase of annual receipts. MILWAUKEE AND MISSISSIPPI It. R. 151 TIIE MILWAUKEE AND MISSISSIPPI RAILROAD COMPANY. This pioneer railroad of "Wisconsin is fully completed to Prairie du Chien, its terminus on the Mississippi river, and is not only one of the most prosperous, but one of the best conducted roads in the State. An immense amount of freight and travel pass over it, which formerly were car- ried over the Illinois roads to the river. We annex ex- tracts from the Report of its Superintendent. "It is with great satisfaction that I can state to the public generally, that our. road, with all its connections and arrangements for business from New York to St. Paul, is in complete order, and ready for the earliest opening of navigation. "In the first place, the road terminates on the Missis- sippi river, about seventy miles above any other. Now, if we consider Chicago as the starting-point, we can take a passenger thence over the Chicago and St. Paul Railroad to Janesville, and thence over one hundred and thirty miles of our road to Prairie du Chien, from eight to ten hours in advance of the route via Dunleith, which advantage is sufficient, in my judgment, to give at least one hundred and thirty miles of our road the great bulk of travel to North- ern Iowa, Minnesota, St. Paul, and the Upper Mississippi country. Then, if we start at Milwaukee, we shall find our road has connection with Chicago, via Lake Shore Rail- road, and is, in the course of next year, to have a connec- tion across Lake Michigan to Grand Haven, which is di- rectly east of Milwaukee ; and thence with the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad, with the New York Central and Erie Railroads, and with the Grand Canada Trunk Railroad, extending to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. These routes, for at least nine months of the year, are the shortest, cheapest and quickest, from the principal Eastern cities and from 152 MILWAUKEE AND MISSISSIPPI R. R. New England, through the Grand Trunk Railroad, through Milwaukee, and over the Milwaukee and Mississippi Rail- road, to the great Northwest. " From the two connections above mentioned, the Mil- waukee and Mississippi Road is to receive an amount of through business which will have scarcely a parallel in the West, and which, added to our already large local busi- ness, must fully establish the position I started with, that the M. and M. Railroad would be the best paying road west of Lake Michigan." Lines of steamers are daily running in connection with this railroad at Prairie du Chien, and the Company is rapidly controlling the great bulk of the freight and passenger traffic between the Upper Mississippi and the East. As an evidence of the remarkable increase of busi- ness, we will give the number of arrivals at St. Paul for the last seven years. Year. '1850 No. of Arrivals. 104 Year. 1854 1855 1856 No of Arrivals .. 310 1851 1852 119 171 ., 563 .. 837 1853 During the year 1856, 172,052 passengers were trans- ported over this road, without the slightest injury to any one, except a lady, who had her shoulder injured by the breaking of an axle, which threw the car in which she was sitting at the time off the track. The amount of freight moved over the road, for the past year, was : Tonnage going east, 62,216; tonnage going west, 90,361; total, 153,577. The aggregate amount of earnings, for the same period, was $680,472 48. A divi- dend of ten per cent, cash was paid in 1856. DETROIT AND MILWAUKEE R. R. 153 THE DETROIT AND MILWAUKEE RAILROAD. The line of this railroad is drawn from Grand Haven, in the State of Michigan, and directly opposite Milwaukee, to Detroit, at the foot of Lake St. Clair, and at the ter- minus of the Canada and Great Western Railway ; branch- ing from it at Owasso or Flint, directly east to Port Lamia, the terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway from Montreal, Toronto, and London, in Canada — making an air line from Milwaukee to the starting-point of the three great Atlantic roads — the Grand Trunk, the New York Central, and the New York and Erie. As the shortest possible connecting link between the ter- mini of the diverging roads from Milwaukee to the differ- ent points of the great Northwest, it is justly considered one of the most important to the State of any of the roads outside of its limits. The annexed table of distances and passenger fares by different routes, will show the ad- vantages of this route, in point of economy and expedition, over all other means of communication between the Eastern States and the principal points of importance in the Northwest. Table of Distances, &c. FROM NEW TOKK TO BY WHAT ROUTE. MILES. AMT. TIME. Milwaukee, via Do " " Mi roit and Milwaukee Railway 942 1048 1078 1051 1000 1142 1251 1292 1439 1436 $20-20 23-98 24-73 23-97 25-20 28-97 26-70 29-17 29-18 47-51 52-24 53-24 52-33 57-51 62-33 72-51 Sii:>7 86-48 " " Bu a « N- « « Pe Prairie La Crosse, v St. Faul, via Detro ffalo and Michigan Southern Railroad.. York and Erie and Michigan Southern nn. Central and Detroit and Milwaukee ia Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad ' N. York and Erie and Mich. Southern t and Milwaukee Railway " " N. Y. " « Michi and Erie and Mich. Southern Railroad The business prospects of the Detroit and Milwaukee Road are very flattering. They have carried over their 154 MILWAUKEE AND HORICON R. R. line, in the last six months, over 129,000 local passengers, and their receipts have, in the same time, amounted to $143,342. At this rate they will have, per annum, for local traffic, over $680,000. A few years will make a vast increase of their business, both local and through. This Company lately received from Government over one hun- dred thousand acres of land, which ought to produce at least one million of dollars. THE MILWAUKEE AND HORICON RAILROAD. This road runs from Milwaukee northwest (N. 45° W.) to the City of Superior, 325 miles, passing through, on its route, Horicon, Waupum, Ripon, Berlin, and Stevens' Point, and the whole line presents no material deviation from an air line. It is proper to remark here, that the charter of the La Crosse Road and the Milwaukee and Horicon, occupies the same ground between Milwaukee and Horicon, 51 miles, and an arrangement was made be- tween these companies, under a contract running twenty years from the time of opening the Milwaukee and Horicon Road beyond Horicon. This road is now finished to Berlin, 92 miles from Milwaukee, and is being hurried for- ward without delay. It connects, at this point, with the Valley Road, already built to Fond du Lac, and at Ripon with the Winnebago, extending to Oshkosh, and the Ripon and Wolf River Road, besides other important connections, building by separate companies. It will be perceived that the Milwaukee and Horicon Railroad occupies the position of a grand trunk line, extending diagonally through the middle of the State from the southeast to the northwest. At the City of Superior, it will connect with the contem- plated Northern Pacific Railroad, and will form the air line from it to Milwaukee. MILWAUKEE AND BELOIT R. R. 155 The total amount of tonnage passing over this road, for ten months of 1856, was 25,655, and 27,400 passengers. This is a very encouraging prospect, when it is considered that but 17 j 8 o 4 o m ih3S were in operation for this period. GREEN BAY, MILWAUKEE, AND CHICAGO RAILROAD. This Company was organized in 1852, and the road com- pleted between Milwaukee and Chicago in 1855. It runs along the Lake Shore from Milwaukee to the State line, a distance of 40 miles, connecting there with the Chicago road. It is commonly called the "Wisconsin Lake Shore Road, and during the close of navigation (about three months every year), it is the only means of connection, for passengers and freight business, with the great Eastern and Southern routes, and must prove one of the best roads in the United States. As a passenger road, it is one of the best in the West — running its trains with great regu- larity and precision during aU seasons of the year. It was only in operation seven months of the year 1855, and there- fore the comparative business is only given for that period for the two past years. 1856. Number of through passengers, both ways 9S,553 " " wuy " " " 81,277 Earnings for the year 1856 $221,936-56 Last seven months of 1855 $36,409-65 Last seven months of 1856 136,610-38 Excess for 1856 $50,200-73 MILWAUKEE AND BELOIT RAILROAD. This road leads from Milwaukee, in a southwesterly di- rection, to Elkhorn and Delavan, a distance of 49 miles, where it will shortly intersect with the Racine and Missis- 156 MILWAUKEE AND SUPERIOR R. R. sippi Railroad, thereby forming a direct line to Savannah, on the Mississippi river. It passes' through a section of country which, for fertility and agricultural productions, cannot be surpassed in the West. FOX RIVER VALLEY RAILROAD. This Company was chartered in 1853, with the right to construct a railroad from the south line of the State of Wisconsin to Milwaukee, a distance of 43 miles. The entire route has been surveyed, and about one-third of it completed. Its location is very favorable, passing through one of the richest and most densely populated portions of Wisconsin, besides forming several important connections with other railroads. THE RACINE AND MISSISSIPPI RAILROAD. This road runs from the city of Racine to Savanna, on the Mississippi river, a distance of 136 miles. Having an eastern terminus at Racine, and a belt of rich and well- settled country, eighteen miles wide, the whole length of the road, wholly dependent upon it for the transportation of its produce to a good market ; it commands every ad- vantage upon which the success of such projects usually depend. MILWAUKEE AND SUPERIOR RAILROAD. This enterprise is in the hands of a Company organized under a charter obtained in March last. The route of the proposed road, under its charter, extends from Milwaukee, by way of the lake shore towns, to Green Bay, and thence to the City of Superior, at the head of Lake Superior — covering a distance of about four hundred miles. It is the extension northward of the line of lake shore roads, now DISTANCES BY RAILROAD, 157 completed from Buffalo to Milwaukee. The Company is entitled to receive one hundred thousand dollars of the bonds of that city, besides numerous private subscriptions, &c, in various counties along their route. It is their inten- tion to complete the road to Sheboygan in 1858. Be- tween Milwaukee and Green Bay it can have no rival road within forty miles ; and, were its operations confined only to the local business, it could not fail to be a profitable investment. But it reaches further ; iutersects the Chicago, St. Paul, and Fond du Lac Road, leading to the mining districts of Ontonagon and Marquette, and traverses the richest mineral region in Northern Wisconsin, to the great city of Lake Superior. DISTANCES BY RAILROAD. Railroad distances by the various lines, diverging from Milwaukee throughout the State of Wisconsin. Jllihcaufcee and 3fississi2>pi Hail- road. MILES. From Milwaukee to Wauwautosa 5 Side Track 12 Junction 14 Forest House 17 Waukesha 20 Genesee 28 Eagle 36 Palmyra 42 Whitewater 50 Childs' Station 55 Milton 62 Janesville 70 Edgerton 72 Stoughton 82 Madison 98 Blackearth 122 Arena 128 Avoca 148 Muscoda 158 Boscabel 168 Prairie du Chien 195 14 La Crosse and Milwaukee Jiail- road. MILES. From Milwaukee to Schwartzburg 7 Granville 13 German town 18 Richfield 23 Cedar Creek 28 Schleisinger 30 Hartford 34 Rubicon 39 Woodland 43 Iron Ridge 45 Horicon 51 Junction 54 Oak Grove 56 Beaver Dam 61 Fox Lake 68 Portage Prairie 73 Cambria 77 Pardee ville 87 Portage City 95 New Lisbon 140 La Crosse 196 158 DISTANCES BY RAILROAD, Watertown Division. MILES. From Milwaukee to Wauwautosa •> Elm Grove " Junction 1* Pewaukee 20 Hartland 24 Pine Lake 27 Oconomococ 33 Ixonia 38 Watertown 45 Lowell 64 Columbus 64 Northwestern Division. From Milwaukee to Portage City 95 St. Croix River 323 St. Croix and Lake Superior Rail- road. From Milwaukee to St. Croix River 323 Falls of St. Croix 353 Gordon 388 Nashodana 400 City of Superior 460 Chicago, St. Paul, and Fond du Lac Railroad. From Chicago to Junction 2 Jefferson 9 Canfield 12 Des Plaines 16 Dunton 23 Palatine 27 Barrington 32 Cary 38 Crystal Lake 43 Ridgeficld 45 Woodstock 51 Harvard • 62 Lawrence 65 Sharon 71 Clinton Junction 78 Shopiere 83 Junesville 91 "MILES. La Crosse Junction Burnet 95 Chester 107 Oakfleld 116 Fond du Lac 124 Milwaukee and Horicon Railroad. From Milwaukee to Schwartzburg 7 Granville 13 Germantown 18 Richfield 23 Cedar Creek 28 Schleisinger 30 Hartford 34 Rubicon 39 Woodland 43 Iron Ridge 45 Horicon 51 Burnett 56 Mill Creek 62 Waupun •••• 66 Brandon 74 Reed's Corners 77 Ripon 81 Berlin 92 Stevens' Point 142 Chicago and Milwaukee Railroad From Chicago to Chittenden 7 Evanston 12 Wynetka 16 Glencoe 19 Highland Park 23 Rockland 30 Waukegan 35 State Line 45 Kenosha 51 Racine 62 County Line 70 Oak Creek 75 Milwaukee 85 Racine and Mississippi Railroad. From Racine to Junction 2 Windsor 10 Union Grove 14 RIVER DISTANCES. 159 MILES. Kansasville 18 Dover 20 Burlington 26 Lyonsdale 30 Springfield 33 Elkhorn 40 Delavan 46 Darien 50 Allen's Grove 53 Clinton 68 Beloit 68 Rockfout 72 Fkeeport 101 Savajjnah 136 Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad. From Detroit to D. M. & T. R. R. Junction.. 3 Royal Oak 12 Birmingham 18 MILES. Pontine 25 Drayton Plains 31 Waterford 33 Clarkson 35 Springfield 39 Davisburg 42 Holly 47 Fentonville 52 Linden 57 Gaines 62 Vernon 70 Corunna 77 Owosso 80 Ovid 90 St, Johns 100 Ionia 120 Lowell Ada Grand Rapids Grand Haven 170 Milwaukee, by steamboats... 251 RIVER DISTANCES. Table of distances from St. Louis, via Mississippi and St. Louis rivers, to the City of Superior. MILES. From St. Louis to Missouri River 18 Alton 3 21 Grafton 18 39 Illinois River 2 41 Gilead 32 73 Hamburg 10 83 Clarksville 13 96 Louisiana 11 107 Hannibal 25 132 Quincy 18 150 La Grange 10 160 Tully 7 167 T y a, Tr W TV 1 17 184 Des Moines River J Keokuk 4 188 Montrose I 12 200 Nauvoo J Madison 10 210 Buklington 20 230 MILES. Oquawka 17 247 New Boston 19 266 Iowa River 1267 Muscatine 25 292 Fairport 7 299 Andalusia 10 309 Rock Island ) g m Davenport J Hampton 11 329 Parkhurst 8 337 Albany 19 356 Lyons 9 365 Charleston 15 3S0 Savannah 2 382 Belleview 19 401 Fever River (to Galena 6 miles) 7 408 Dibiqie 24 432 Dunleith 1 433 Potofii Landing 14 447 160 LAKE DISTANCES. MILES. Waupaton 10 457 Buena Vista 5 462 Cassville 4 466 Guttenburg 10 476 Clayton 12 488 Wyalusing 5 493 McGregor's 6 499 Prairie du Chien 4 503 Red House 5 508 Johnson's Landing 2 510 Lafayette 30 540 Columbus 2 542 Lansing 1 513 De Soto 6 549 Victory 10 559 Bad Axe City 10 569 Warner's Landing 6 575 Brownsville 10 585 La Crosse 12 597 Dacotah 12 609 Richmond 6 615 Monteville 5 620 Homer 10 630 "Winona 7 C37 Fountain City 12 649 Mount Vernon 14 663 Minneiska 4 667 Alma 15 682 Wabashaw 10 692 Nelson's Landing 3 695 Reed's Landing 2 697 Foot of Lake Pepin 2 699 North Pepin 6 705 Johnstown 2 707 Lake City 5 712 Central Point 2 714 Florence 3 717 MILES. Maiden's Rock 3 720 Westerville 3 723 Wacouta 12 735 Red Wing 6 741 Thing's Landing 7 748 Diamond Bluff 8 756 Prescott 13 769 Point Douglas 1 770 Hastings 3 773 Grey Cloud 12 785 Pine Bend 4 789 Red Rock 8 797 Kaposia 3 800 St. Paul 5 805 St. Anthony 9 814 Rice Creek 7 821 St. Francis or Rum River 9 830 Itasca 7 837 Elk River 6 843 Big Lake 10 853 Big Meadow (Sturgis)... 18 871 St. Cloud (Sauk Rapids) 10 881 Watab 6 887 Little Rock 2 889 Platte River 12 901 Swan River 10 911 Little Falls 3 914 Belle Prairie 5 919 Fort Ripley 10 929 Crow Wing River 6 935 Sandy Lake 120 1055 Savannah Portage 15 1070 Across the Portage 5 1075 Down Savannah to St. Louis 20 1095 Fond du Lac 60 1155 City of Superior 22 1179 LAKE DISTANCES Chicago, Milwaukee, and Lake Su- perior Line. MILES. From Chicago to Milwaukee 90 90 Sheboygan 50 140 Manitowoc 25 165 Two Rivers «. 7 172 MILES. Manito Island 112 2S4 Mackinaw 90 374 S. St. Marie 90 464 Marquette 170 634 Cop's Harbor 80 714 Eagle Harbor 16 730 Eagle River 9 739 Ontonagon 65 804 LAKE DISTANCES. 161 nin.ES. La Pointe 80 884 City of Superior 80 964 The Lady Elgin, on this line, is of 1037 tons burthen, and cannot be surpassed by any steamer floating the Western waters, in point of speed, comfort, (Norwegian.) « " Staats Zeitung. " u Madison Zeitung. " " Western Fireside. Manitouwoc Manitouwoc Tribune. « " Herald. « " Democrat (German). " « Nord Western (German) (311) 312 LIST OF NEWSPAPERS. Place. County. Name of Paper. Menasha Winnebago Advocate. Milwaukee Milwaukee Free Democrat, " " Daily Wisconsin. " " Daily Sentinel. " " Morning News. " " Banner. " " See Bote. Mineral Point Iowa Tribune. " " Democrat. Monroe Green Sentinel. Oskosh Winnebago Democrat. " " Courier. " " Phoenix (German). Ozaukee Ozaukee Advertiser. Plattville Grant Independent American. Plover Portage Herald. Portage Columbia Badger State. " " , Republic. Port Washington Ozaukee Advertiser. " " Zeitung (German). " " Kepublican. Prairie du Chien Crawford Courier. " " Patriot. Frescott Pierce Wisconsin. Racine Racine Advocate. " t " Democrat. « " KirkTidenbe. Richland Centre Richland Observer. Ripon Pond du Lac. Herald. Sauk City Sauk Pioneer. Sheboygan Sheboygan Evergreen City Times. " " Lake Journal. u a Republicaner (German). " " Miemus Boett (German). Shullsburg La Fayette Herald. « " Pick and Gad. Superior Douglas Superior Chronicle. Watertown Jefferson Democrat. " " Chronicle. " " Anzieger (German). " " Register. Waupacca Waupacca Spirit. Weganwega " Weganawegan. Whitewater Walworth Gazette. Note. — The Author returns thanks to the Press generally for past favors, and would request a continuance of their kindness for the future, by forwarding him copies of their papers containing important local infor. mation, care of the Publisher, by which he will be enabled to post up more fully on the various localities, in future editions. THE END. HISTORICAL SERIES. PINNOCK'S HISTORICAL SERIES. PINNOCK'S ENGLAND. REVISED EDITION. PINNOCK'S IMPROVED EDITION OF DR. GOLDSMITH'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND, FROM THE INVASION OF JULIUS CiESAR TO THE DEATH OF GEORGE THE ZZ. WITH A CONTINUATION TO THE YEAR 1845: WITH QUESTIONS FOR EXAMINATION AT THE END OF EACH SECTION | BESIDES A VARIETY OP VALUABLE INFORMATION ADDED THROUGHOUT THE WORK, Consisting of Tables of Contemporary Sovereigns and eminent Persons, copious Expla- natory Notes, Remarks on the Politics, Manners and Literature of the Age, and an Outline of the Constitution. ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS tin HUNDRED AND FIFTH AMERICAN, CORRECTED AND REVISED FROM THE THIRTT ENGLISH EDITION. By W. C. TAYLOR, LL. D., of Trinity College, Dubmn, Author of a Manual of Ancient and Modern History, *c. 4c. (9) HISTORICAL SERIES. PINNOCK'S FRANCE, HISTORY OF FRANCE AND NORMANDY, FROM TUB EARLIEST TIMES BC THE REVOLUTION OF 1848, WITH QUESTIONS FOR EXAMINATION AT THE END OF EACH SECTION By W. C. TAYLOR, LL. D., of Trinity College, Dublin, .Aathor of a Manual of Ancient and Modern History, Ac. Ac, and Editor of I'innocVi Improved editions of Goldsmith's Greece, Rome, and England. ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. TWENTY-FIFTH AMERICAN FKOM THE THIRD ENGLISH EDITION. PINNOCK'S ROME, REVISED EDITION, PINNOCK'S IMPROVED EDITION OF DR. GOLDSMITH'S HISTORY OF ROMB, TO WHICH 18 PREFIXED AN INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY OF ROMAN HISTORY, AND A GREAT VARIETY OF INFORMATION THROUGHOUT THE WORK, ON THE MANNERS, INSTITUTIONS, AND ANTIQUITIES OF THE ROMAN8 , WITH QUESTIONS FOR EXAMINATION AT THE END OF EACH SECTION. SiXTY-FIFTH AMERICAN, FROM THE NINETEENTH LONDON EDITION, IMPROVED BY W. C. TAYLOR, LL.D., WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS BY ATHERTON AND OTHERS. PINNOCK'S GEEECE, REVISED EDITION, PINNOCK'S IMPROVED EDITION OF DR. GOLDSMITH'S HISTORY OF GREECB, REVISED, COREECTED, AND VERY CONSIDERABLY ENLARGED, BY THE ADDITION OF SEVERAL NEW CHAPTERS, AND NUMEROUS USEFUL NOTES. WITH QUESTIONS FOR EXAMINATION AT THE END OF EACH SECTION, FORTY-FIFTH AMERICAN, FROM THE NINETEENTH LONDON EDITION, IMPROVED BY W. C. TAYLOR, LL.D., WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS, BY ATHERTON AND OTHERS. CIO) SARGENT'S STANDARD SPEAKER. JUST PUBLISHED, In one demi-octavo volume of 558 pages. THE STANDARD SPEAKER, CONTAINING ferrta in \hm nnfr ^nrtrtj, FOR DECLAMATION IN SCHOOLS, ACADEMIES, LYCEUMS, COLLEGES. Newly translated or compiled from celebrated Orators, Authors, and popula* Debaters, ancient and modern. A TREATISE ON ORATORY AND ELOCUTION, WITH NOTES EXPLANATORY AND BIOGR* PHICAL. BY EPES SARGENT. This work has been compiled with great care, and conta ,is a majority of new pieces. It is far more comprehensive than any similar work, and is adapted for use not only as a Speaker, but to the general reader, as a collec- tion containing many new, rare, and elegant extracts. From among a great number of commendatory notices received from essayists, the press, and teachers of elocution, a few are subjoined. From E. P. Whipple, Esq., the well-knoicn Essayist and Critic. We have no hesitation in saying that this is the best compilation of tha kind, in the variety and in the comprehensiveness of its selections, which has been made on either side of the Atlantic. The various pieces are selected with great judgment from a long array of celebrated orators and writers. A good portion of the -work is devoted to extracts from late speeches in France, England, and America, which have never before appeared in a col- lection of the kind; and the works of the great masters of eloquence, Chatham, Burke, Pitt, Fox, Grattan, Emmett, Shiel, and Webster, have been carefully studied for new specimens. The original translations from the French are admirably executed, and add a novel feature to the work. The amount of editorial labor expended on the whole compilation must have been very great — greater, we think, than that of any other Speaker. The introductory treatise on Oratory and Elocution is a model of con- densation, full of matter, clear, sensible, and available in every part. Not only is the volume admirably adapted to serve its primal purpose as a Speaker, but to the general reader it will bo found to bo a most stimulating and attractive book, better than any work of " elegant extracts" we have Been. 09) WORKS ON THE NATURAL SCIENCES. PARTICULAR ATTENTION IS INVITED TO Charles Mltslhtvs SCHOOL PUBLICATIONS UPON THE NATURAL SCIENCES. AMONG THEM ARE JOHNSTON'S SERIES. JOHNSTON'S TURNER'S CHEMISTRY. A MANUAL OF CHEMISTRY, OS THE BASIS OP DR. TURNER'S ELEMENTS OP CHEMISTRY, CONTAINING, IN A CONDENSED FORM, ALL THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTS AND PRINCIPLES OF THE SCIENCE. DESIGNED AS A TEXT-BOOK IN COLLEGES AND OTHER SEMINARIES OF LEARNING. A NEW EDITION. BY JOHN JOHNSTON, A.M., Professor of Natural Science in Wesleyan University. JOHNSTON'S TURNER'S ELEMENTARY CHEMISTRY FOK TIIE USE OF COMMON SCHOOLS. One Vol. 18mo. * (25) JOHNSTON'S SERIES. JOHNSTON'S NATURAL PHILOSOPHY. REVISED EDITION. ENLARGED AND IMPROVED. % Blnittntl nf JJittiiral 33jjtlD5opjrtj, COMPILED FROM VARIOUS SOURCES, AND DESIGNED AS A TEXT- BOOK IN HIGH SCHOOLS AND ACADEMIES. BY JOHN JOHNSTON, A.M., PROFESSOR OP NATURAL SCIENCE IN THE WESLEYAN UNIVERSITY". The above valuable series of books were prepared by John Johnston, A.M., Professor of Natural Science in the Wesleyan University, Middle- town, Ct. The Chemistry is the standard text-book of many of the lead- ing Colleges and prominent Medical Institutions of the country. Tho Elementary Chemistry, very recently published, has been adopted in many High Schools and Academies, in all parts of the country. The present edition of Johnston's Natural Philosophy wiil be tound much enlarged and improved. Exact in its definitions, original in ita illustrations, full and familiar in explanation, the publishers are assured it will require oniy to be examined to be approved. It has been recently recommended by the Board of Education of the State of New Hampshire for the use of the Common Schools of the State; it has also bsen adopted in the High School of Cambridge, Massachusetts, and in many Academics and Schools in various sections of the country. A few notices of the series, from among many which have been received, are appended: (26) WORKS ON THE NATURAL SCIENCES. GUY'S ASTRONOMY, AND KEITH ON THE GLOBES. GUY AND KEITH. GUY ON ASTRONOMY, AND KEITH ON THE GLOBES: Goy's Elements of Astronomy, and an Abridgment of Keith's New Treatise on the Globes. THIRTEENTH AMERICAN EDITION, WITH ADDITIONS AND IMPROVEMENTS, AND AN EXPLANATION OF THE ASTRONOMICAL PART OF THE AMERICAN ALMANAC. Sllnstmbu iiiitli dfftgjjtun ^Uiibs, DRAWN AND ENGRAVED ON STEEL, IN THE BEST MANNER. A volume containing Guy's popular Treatise of Astronomy, and Keith on the Globes, having been submitted to us for examination, and carefully examined, we can without any hesitation recommend it to the notice and patronage of parents and teachers. The work on Astronomy is clear, intelligible, and suited to the comprehension of young persons. It com- prises a great amount of information and is well illustrated with steel engravings. Keith on the Globes has long been recognised as a standard Bchool book. The present edition, comprised in the same volume with the Astronomy, is improved by the omission of much extraneous matter, and the reduction of size and price. On the whole, we know of no school book which comprises so much in so little space as the new edition of Guy and Keith. THOMAS EUSTACE, CHARLES MEAD, JOHN HASLAM, BENJAMIN MAYO, W. CURRAN, HUGH MORROW, SAMUEL CLENDENIN, J. H. BLACK. The following teachers of Baltimore, concur iu the opinion above ex- pressed : E.BENNETT, O. W. TREADWELL, C. F. BANSEMAR, JAMES SHANLEY, E. R. HARNEY, DAVID KING, ROBERT O'NEILL, ROBERT WALKER, N. SPELMAN, D. W. B. McCLELAN. c2 (29) MAPS. MITCHELL'S NEW TRAVELLER'S GUIDE THROUGH THE UNITED STATES AND THE CANADAS, CONTAINING THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND TOWNS, ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED; TOGETHER WITH RAILROAD, STEAMBOAT, STAGE, AND CANAL ROUTES, WITH TABLES OF PLACES, AND DISTANCES FROM PLACE TO PLACE. ILLUSTRATED BY AN ACCURATE MAP OF THE UNITED STATES, Showing the lines of finished Eailroads, and their more important connection*. COMPILED AND BROUGHT UP TO THE PRESENT DAY FROM THE MOST RECENT AND RELIABLE SOURCES. A Pocket 18mo. Vol. The "Guide" has passed through many editions ■with the approbation of the public, and each new issue is found to be a faithful representation of the progressive facilities of travel throughout the country. From Godey's Lady's Book. . . . The grand feature of the book is the Map of the United States, 26 inches by 30, in which all the routes ar3 accurately delineated, with reference letters on the margin, by which aiiy particular place may be found in a few seconds. As a book and map of reference, this will be found extremely conve- nient, not only for travellers, but counting-bouses, hotels, insurance offices, banks, Ac. In fact, every gentleman should have a copy constantly lying on his desk for prompt reference. The great merit of the map is the size and distinctness of the lettering, which renders the search for a place a plea- sure instead of a painful task, as is the case with most pocket maps. In all respects the new Traveller's Guide is unrivalled. From the Literary World. It is one of the finest specimens of map engraving we have ever seen, and in one particular merits special commendation ; that is, the manner in which, by the use of a light but clear letter, the names of places are engraved, thus obviating confusion, and enabling one at a glance to find the place he is in search of. From the New York Evening Post. It is a marvel how so much and such rare and curious information could have been brought within so limited a space. The traveller in tho United States will find almost any question pertaining properly to his journeyings, answered in this little volume without much trouble, tho arrangement is so fine and the contents are so skilfully digested. (TO) MAPS. NEW EDITION OF MITCHELL'S UNIVERSAL ATLAS, CONTAINING MAPS OF THE VARIOUS EMPIRES, KINGDOMS. STATES AND REPUBLICS OF THE WORLD. WITH A SPECIAL MAP OF EACH OF THE UNITED STATES, COMPREHENDED IN SEVENTY-SIX SHEETS, AND FORMING A Series of One" Hundred and Thirty Maps, Plans and Sections. In order to bring this valuable and comprehensive Atlas more generally within the reach of the public, the price has been reduced from eighteen to twelve dollars, at which price it will be furnished to Subscribers in sub- stantial binding ; or in more ornamental binding, at the difference of cost in addition. MITCHELL'S LARGE MAP OF THE UNITED STATES, MOUNTED ON ROLLERS. It exhibits a correct representation of all the States and Territories of the Union, with their counties, towns, railroads, and other internal improve- ments; also the principal stage and common roads, with the distances in miles from place to place. It comprises likewise the results of all the Con- gressional land surveys in the Western, North-western, and South-western States. The map is compiled on a scale of 25 miles to an inch. HITCHELL'S LARGE MAP OF THE WORLD. MOUNTED ON ROLLERS. The Map of the World is 4£ feet in length and 6 J in width, comprising a surface of about 4000 square inches, and a geographical extent from east to west of 360 degrees of longitude, and from the 81st degree of latitude north, to the 70th degree south. The engraving is clear and distinct, and the printing, colouring, and mounting is done in the best manner. This work exhibits doubtless the most correct and complete view of the earth in the map form hitherto published in this country; it embraces as far as the scale permits, the researches of the most distinguished modern explorers both by sea and land; also the sailing tracks of the principal navigators from the time of Columbus to that of the late American Ex- ploring Expedition commanded by Commodore Wilkes ; together with the overland mutes of noted travellers from the days of Browne and Park in Africa, in the years 1793-95, to those of Fremont in California and Oregon in our own times. MAPS. CHARLES DESILVER PUBLISHES MITCHELL'S POCKET MAPS. These celebrated Maps have been revised and improved, and are now the most accurate and reliable of any published. MITCHELL'S NEW TRAVELLER'S GUIDE. I MAP OF MAINE. MAP OF ALABAMA. I MAP OF MASSACHUSETTS & R. ISLAND, MAP OF CALIFORNIA, WITH THE TER- j MAP OF MARYLAND AND DELAWARE. RITORIES OF OREGON, UTAH, AND t MAP OF MINNESOTA. NEW MEXICO. \ MAP OF MISSISSIPPI. MAP OF CONNECTICUT. j MAP OF N. HAMPSHIRE AND VERMONT MAP OF FLORIDA. 5 MAP OF CANADA EAST. MAP OF LOUISIANA. \ MAP OF CANADA WEST. MITCHELL'S GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA. j MAP OF NORTH CAROLINA. MAP OF MAINE, NEW HAMPSHIRE, AND j MAP OF GEORGIA. VERMONT. MAP OF MICHIGAN. MAP OF MASSACHUSETTS, CONNECT!- MAP OF ARKANSAS. CUT, AND RHODE ISLAND. j MAP OF TEXAS. MAP OF NEW YORK. 5 MAP OF NEW JERSEY. MAP OF PENNSYLVANIA, NEW JERSEY, | MAP OF NORTH AMERICA. AND DELAWARE. 5 MAP OF SOUTH AMERICA. MAP OF VIRGINIA AND MARYLAND. \ MAP OF MINNESOTA, with GUIDE BOOK MAP OF MARYLAND AND DELAWARE. \ MAP OF LOUISIANA, MISSISSIPPI, AND MAP OF NORTH AND SOUTH CAROLINA. \ ALABAMA. AND GEORGIA. \ MAP OF KENTUCKY AND TENNESSEE. MAP OF MISSOURI. i MAP OF MISSOURI AND ARKANSAS. MAP OF MISSOURI, ILLINOIS, IOWA AND \ MAP OF OHIO, INDIANA, ILLINOIS, AND WISCONSIN, THE TERRITORY 0FIJ MICHIGAN. MINNESOTA, AND THE COPPER RE- < MAP OF WISCONSIN. GION OR MINERAL LANDS OF LAKE \ MAP OF IOWA, SUPERIOR. 5 MAP OF TEXAS, OREGON, AND CALIFOR MAP OF OHIO. | NIA. MAP OF INDIANA. \ MAP OF MEXICO AND GUATEMALA. MAP OF ILLINOIS. 5 MAP OF FLORIDA AND WEST INDIES. MAP OF TENNESSEE. \ MAP OF EUROPE. MAP OF KENTUCKY. j MAP OF THE UNITED STATES. MAP OF VIRGINIA. i MAP OF PENNSYLVANIA. MAP OF SOUTH CAROLINA, i MAP OF ENGLAND. (72) ^ ********************* ******»**V»»^* »**** ^ *S**^^»^**^ **»***»***»*** >**-fo : 1857. 1857. \ WESTERN TRAVEL. Great Direct Route.— Fare Reduced. J New York and Erie Rail Road. [ On and after June 15, 1S57, and uptil further notice, Passenger Trains will leave Pier > foot of Duane Street, as follows, viz i % Dunkirk Express, at 6 o'clock, a. m., for Dunkirk. j Buffalo Express, at 6 o'clock, a. m., for Buffalo. i Mail, at 9 o'clock, A. II., for Dunkirk and Buffalo. J Emigrant, at 5 o'clock, p. m., for Dunkirk and Buffalo. * The above Trains run daily, Sundays excepted. Night Express, at 5 o'clock, p. m., for Dunkirk and Buffalo, every day. J i These Express Trains connect at Hornellsville with the Buffalo and New York City Rail > t Road, for Buffalo; at Buffalo and Dunkirk with the Lake Shore Rail Road for Cleveland, t i Cincinnati, Toledo, Detroit, Chicago, Milwaukee, &o. € HOMER RAMSDELL, President. > \ 1857. 1857. | t GREAT CENTRAL ROUTE. * $ Pennsylvania Rail Road. \ CLEVELAND AND PITTSBURG, J CLEVELAND AND TOLEDO, J $ AND % | Michigan Southern Rail Roads, j i Eor Chicago, Milwaukee, (Wisconsin). Racine, Sheboygan, Janesville, Fond du Lac, Ke- i f nosha, Waukegan, Beloit, Madison, Prairie du Chien, aud St. Paul. { Passengers will find this the shortest, quickest, and most reliable route to Chicago and { I the above points. > i 1857. 1857. | i Pittsburg, Fort "Wayne, and Chicago Rail Road, J TO PITTSBURG, PHILADELPHIA, BALTIMORE, NEW YORK, BOSTON. f I PRINCIPAL CONNECTIONS! J At Pittsburg, with all Trains on Great Pennsylvania Central Rail Road to Philadel- } J phia, New York, Boston, and all principal points in the East. / i At Crestline, with all Trains on the Cleveland and Columbus Rail Road, to Cleveland i t and Lake Shore Rail Road, east to Dunkirk and Buffalo, New York. 1 1857. 1857. \ < Chicago, St. Paul, and Fond du Lac Rail Road, f AND * MILWAUKEE AND MISSISSIPPI RAIL ROAD LINE! i] From Chicago and Milwaukee to Prairie du Chien, Wis., on the Upper Mississippi River, i ]| running through in 10 hours, without change of cars. i ',', Two Trains leave Milwaukee aud two from Chicago Daily (on arrival of Eastern Trains) i ', '■ for PRAIRIE DU CHIEN, Wis., / \ CONNECTING WITH \ J A New and Superior Line of Steam Packets, under the control of the Mil. and Miss. Rail J t Road, on the Upper Mississippi River to St. Paul, Minnesota, and all intervening points, { J and with Stages to all points of Northern Iowa. > ^***** ***************************************************** ***********»**4k. 1857. 1857.1 FOR LAKE SUPERIOR. Chicago, Milwaukee, and Lake Superior Line. Steamer LADY ELGIN,— E. H. Tompkins, a>mmamler,— \a a first-class Steamer of 1037 J tons burthen, and cannot be surpassed by any Steamer floating the Western waters, in < point of speed, comfort, and general convenience — and is the only Boat that can be relied } upon from Chicago, by passengers wishing to go to the City of Superior. / Making twelve-day trips between Chicago and Superior, touching at all points on Lake < Michigan and Lake Superior, and connecting at Superior with Steamers for towns on the £ North Shore, and also at Mackinaw with the Colliugwood Boats. > Tor Freight or Passage, apply to A. T. SPENCER & Co., $ Foot of Slate Street, Chicago. t 1857. 1857. t Cleveland, Detroit, and Lake Superior Line. ON THE FIRST OF JULY, FOUR FIRST-CLASS PROPELLERS, for Freight and Pass- | engers, will be put on the above route, running regularly from Cleveland to the City of £ Superior. The line will be composed of the following Boats: i IRON CITY, Captain E. Turner; J MANHATTAN, Captain C. Ripley; | DAKOTA, Captain J. Spalding ; f CITY OF SUPERIOR. < These Boats are all fitted up expressly for carrying freight and passengers. Every atten- J tion will be given to the comfort of passengers, and the prompt delivery of all freight con- £ signed to their care, at Cleveland, Ohio. S IIANNA. GARRETS0N & Co.. | J. C. nUSSEY, BACON & Co. > 1857. North Star and Illinois, RUNNING REGULARLY FROM CLEVELAND TO THE CITY OF SUPERIOR. The above Steamers are not surpassed, in point of speed and accommodations, by any Boats on the Lakes. They are built for this particular trade, are over 1100 tons burthen, are fist, staunch, and new. They perform their trips with surprising regularity, and are so well appointed and furnished as to make them Palace Homes to the pleasure-traveller. These Boats stop at Mackinaw, and connect there with the Collingwood Line. Rooms secured for the round trip (time, eight days; distance, 2000 miles,) by addressing S. & A. TURNER, Cleveland, Ohio. ^c^-CRAGG^BROTHER, J ^^ ^ - 1857. 1857. Summer Arrangement. The Steamer JAMES CARSON, on and after the opening of navigation, will make her regular trips to DU LUTH, FOND DU LAC, and WAHBEGAN. For Freight or Passage, apply on board, or to JOHN H. GARRETT, Proprietor. {1857. 1857.! NEW LINE OF PROPELLERS. j Buffalo, Cleveland, and Chicago Line. J t During the season of Lake navigation of 1S57-8, will run between Buffalo and Chicago, # J touching at Cleveland and intermediate ports, forming a tri-weekly Line for the transpor- J > tation of Freight and Passengers. i r The vessels of this Line will run in connection at Buffalo with the $ \ NEW YORK CENTRAL RAIL ROAD, £ And the i i Troy and Western Line of Canal Boats, t On the Erie Canal ; at Cleveland with the J CLEVELAND, PITTSBURGH AND WHEELING RAIL ROAD, f furnishing each of these Companies tri-weekly accommodations for the shipment of Freight / i and Passengers. i i With these facilities the proprietors respectfully solicit a share of public patronage. t For freight or passage apply to— i I N. CHAMBERLIN, Agent of New York Central Rail Road, No. 207 Broadway, New York. I r RICE, CLAPP, & CO., Agents, Troy and Western Line, Office SI Ccenties Slip, New York, i I SHELDON PEASE, Agent, Office foot of Michigan St., Buffalo. I H. JOHNSON, Agent, N. Y. Central R. R., No. 221 River St., Cleveland. i J. A. CAUGIIEY, Agent, Cleveland, Pittsburgh & Wheeling R. R., Pittsburgh. J D. B. WILLIAMS, Agent, Cleveland, Pittsburgh, and Wheeling Rail Road, Bridgeport, J | opposite Wheeling, Ya. < j SHELDON PEASE, Managing Agent, | r Office foot of Michigan Street, Buffalo. # t 1857. ~ 1857. 1 The Western Transportation Co. I This Company having established their DAILY LINE for 1857, to and from Chicago, Mil- J f waukee, and other ports on Lake Michigan — Detroit, Toledo, Sandusky, Cleveland, and € I other ports on Lake Erie — with abundant facilities on the Canal, will be prepared on the i I opening of navigation to forward Freight and Passengers. > J AGENTS. i £ EVERETT CLAPP, HUGH ALLEN, No. 1 Ccenties Slip, corner Pearl St., New York. \ I JAMES n. WILGUS, W. H. CHASE, No. 2 Courtlandt St., near Broadway, New York. « [ S. G. CHASE, No. 113 Pier, Albany < I J. W. TUTT, No. 191 River St., Troy. 5 | P. B. BURKE, No. G8 State St., Boston. > \ T. N. BOND, Cleveland. f Upper Lake Trade. People moving to the Western States will find this the most desirable route. The ac- commodations for families with wagons, horses and furniture, in particular, are such as cannot fail to give satisfaction, there being no transhipment till they reach the port of desti- nation. This Company have Fourteen First Class Steam Propellers on the Lakes, and Two Hun- dred and Fifty Boats on the Erie Canal. Contracts can be made for up or down Freight on application to their Agents. ^ Freights going East or West consign care of Agent at Cleveland. »*SSS» *S»»S %SS »» S\»%» %»»»» %SS»» %»»»» % V\»»^*»S» S»S\» NV >%»»»■< frUBRARYflr ^HIBRARYtf/. OFCALIFOft^ .^OFCAilF(% aWFUNIVERS/a vvlOSANCflfxL *Sr — ''4» ., iWMUVD-jtf^ %0dlW3JO^ UF0% a-OFCA1IF0% VF£/a ^dOSANGElfj^ rsov^ -< ^•lIBRARYOc ^UIBRARYtf/ ^/OJITVOJO^ ^OJIIVJJO^ ^lOSANCFlfj^ ^OF-CAllFORfc ^OF-CALIFOftfc, f-S01^ "%!3AINIH^ N y 0Aavaan^ y 0AavaaiH^ \RY0/- ^UBRARYtfc- .^MINIVERS'/A QJO^ ^OJllVDJO^ :10S-ANCEI&>, o s ^lOSANCElfx- o aiiv^ 'okmw^