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 RUAC5RILE TfiW - . /MUS -
 
 JOURNAL 
 
 WRITTEN 
 
 DURING AN EXCURSION 
 
 ASIA MINOR 
 
 BY 
 
 CHARLES FELLOWS 
 
 1838 
 
 LONDON: 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 MDCCCXXXIX.
 
 PRINTED BY RICIIAHD AND JOHN E. TAYLOR, 
 
 RED I. ION COURT, FLEET STREET.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 SINCE my return to England from the Tour in Asia 
 Minor which forms the subject of the following Journal, 
 I have been informed at the Royal Geographical Society 
 that parts of my route which lay through the Interior 
 and Southern district of the country, and led me to the 
 remains of important ancient cities, had not before been 
 traversed by any European ; and it is on this account 
 alone that I am induced to lay my Journal before the 
 Public. 
 
 The country through which I travelled is that small 
 portion of Asia Minor (now known by the name of 
 Ariadhouly,) which lies between lat. 42 and 36, and 
 long. 26 and 32, including Lydia, Mysia, Bithynia, 
 Phrygia, Pisidia, Pamphylia, Lycia, and Caria. My 
 route is marked in the accompanying Map. 
 
 As the most interesting period of the history of this 
 
 A2
 
 iv PREFACE. 
 
 country was the time of its occupation by the Greeks, 
 so the remains of their cities form now the chief attrac- 
 tion to the traveller. These cities, some of them of very 
 remote antiquity, all had their origin prior to the Con- 
 quest of the country by the Romans in the third cen- 
 tury before the Christian rera, after which time that 
 people were nominally the possessors of the country, 
 and the Roman taste was visibly encroaching on the 
 Greek in works of art. About the age of Constantine, 
 the Christians began to* produce a still greater change 
 in the architecture of the many cities of which they 
 had possession, including the Seven Churches of the 
 Apocalypse, piling up buildings in a style very different 
 from the pure Greek. Next came the Venetians, whose 
 slight fortifications, built of the remains of ruined cities, 
 are seen on every coast and in every important moun- 
 tain pass. The conquest by the present occupants, the 
 Turks, succeeded in the fourteenth century. Their 
 architectural works are few, and of a character so pecu- 
 liar as to render them easily distinguishable from the 
 earlier buildings by which they are surrounded. 
 
 The descendants of the Greeks, the ancient possessors 
 of the soil, do not, I believe, now form a tenth part of 
 the population ; their costume and even language are so 
 lost by mixture with the Turks, that these national pe- 
 culiarities are with difficulty traced. The Greeks gene-
 
 PREFACE. V 
 
 rally wear colours not so gay as those of the Turks, 
 frequently having the turban and Turkish trowsers of 
 black; green they are forbidden to use, that being the 
 peculiar colour of a privileged few among the followers 
 of the Prophet. 
 
 It will be gathered from my Journal that at the time 
 of my arrival in the country I was strongly biassed in 
 favour of the Greeks, and equally prejudiced against the 
 Turks ; and it will be seen in the course of the narrative 
 how this unfavourable idea of the Turkish character 
 was gradually removed by a personal intimacy with the 
 people, generally in situations where they were remote 
 from every restraint but those which their religion im- 
 poses. 
 
 Of the country which I was entering I knew as little 
 as of its inhabitants, and this want of information may 
 be manifest in parts of my Journal; but I have given 
 my observations made on the spot, that the fidelity 
 of the descriptions may not be impaired. The Draw- 
 ings introduced have been selected from my sketch- 
 book for the purpose of illustration only. Those which 
 represent the sculptured remains found at Xanthus 
 have been seen by the Trustees of the British Mu- 
 seum, and I hear that on their recommendation the 
 Government has given directions for having these 
 monuments of ancient art brought to this country ;
 
 VI PREFACE. 
 
 we may hope therefore to see them among the trea- 
 sures of our National Institution. I have added Trans- 
 lations of the Inscriptions which I copied on my tour, 
 for the elucidation of which I must acknowledge my 
 great obligations to my friend Mr. James Yates. 
 
 Had I been aware when I travelled through this 
 district how little it was known, I should have made 
 more careful observations of position and distance, to 
 assist in mapping the country ; and I should have de- 
 voted more time to the examination of inscriptions. 
 I hope, however, that the partial information which I 
 can furnish, may induce other travellers better pre- 
 pared than myself for antiquarian research to turn 
 their steps to this part of the world, which not only 
 abounds in interest connected with early history and 
 poetry, but is so rich in existing remains of past ages. 
 
 London, May, 1839.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 LYDIA. 
 
 Page. 
 ARRIVAL at Smyrna Costume Description of the Town Casino 
 
 Ball Slave-market Manners of the People Greek Church 
 Antiquities Egyptian Customs Departure for Magnesia 
 Caravan Bridge Natural History on the way Khan at Mag- 
 nesia Journey to Thyatira, one of the Seven Churches its 
 Antiquities 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 MYSIA. 
 
 Journey to Soma Inscriptions Proceed to Pergamus its An- 
 tiquities and Situation A Khan Natural History of the 
 Country Adramyttium Assos its Architectural Remains 
 its Tombs Manners of the People Alexandrian Troy its 
 Ruins Hot-springs Stone Quarry with Columns Enae 
 Implements and Customs of the Ancients retained Plains of 
 Troy Arrival at the Dardanelles Abydos and its Antiquities 25 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 French Steamboat Arrival at Constantinople Climate De- 
 scription of the City Bazaars Change of Costume by the 
 Turks Habits of the People Dancing Dervises Antiquities 
 The Sultan his Policy Situation of the City 84
 
 viu CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAFFER IV. 
 
 BlTHYNIA. 
 
 Page. 
 Departure from Constantinople Burial-ground New Road 
 
 Dil Ferry Manners of the People The Country Natural 
 History Arrival at Nicsea its Remains Discovery of In- 
 scription Pass of the Mountain Le"fky Vizier Khan Power 
 of the Firman Sohoot 102 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 PHHYGIA. 
 
 A Forest Onedenoo Singular Caves Mountains and Table- 
 lands Curious Geological features Kootaya Extraordinary 
 Rocks Expedition to seek Doganlu Customs of the People 
 .K/.;mi its Antiquities Inscriptions Habits of a private 
 Family Delicacy of the Manners Departure for Altuntash 
 Sichanlee" Sandooklee" Dumbcfri-ovasy The Plague Cat- 
 chiburloo 123 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 PlSIDIA. 
 
 Journey to Sparta Reception of a Governor at his Province 
 Honesty of the People Singular Pass of the Mountains 
 Alaysodn Ruins of Sagalassus Natural History 162 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 Arrival at Boojak Visit to the Ruins of a splendid City, probably 
 Selge Bee"rmargy Descent of the Taurus range Plains of 
 Pamphylia Adalia Visit to the Pasha Botany Excursion
 
 CONTENTS. ix 
 
 
 
 Page, 
 to ancient Cities, probably Perge, Isionda, Pednelissus, Syl- 
 
 lium, Side, and Aspendus Return to Adalia Domestic man- 
 ners of a Greek Family Departure 171 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 LYCIA. 
 
 Voyage to Phaselis Olympus Phineka Bay State of the Pea- 
 santry Passage of the Mountains to Antiphellus Ruins of 
 Patara City of Xanthus Inscriptions and curious Sculpture 
 Tombs Cottage Ancient Customs preserved Explore 
 the Valley of the Xanthus Ancient City of Tlos Greek Su- 
 perstitions Horses of the country Macry, the ancient Tel- 
 messus Curious Tombs cut in the rocks . . . 209 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 CABIA. 
 
 Route by Dollom6n, Ko6gez, Ho61a Variation of Season 
 Mo61a Gipsies Stratoniceia its Ruins and Inscriptions 
 Mylasa Primitive mode of felling timber Labranda Kizzle- 
 jik and Baffy to Miletus its Ruins Inhospitality of the Pea- 
 santry afterwards explained 247 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 SOUTH OF LYDIA. 
 
 Priene Sansoon Thunder-storm Natural History Chanly 
 Scala Nuova Ephesus its Remains Idin, the ancient Tralles 
 A Market-day Valley of the Maeander 268 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 PART OF THE WEST OF PHRYGIA. 
 
 Caroura Valley of the Lycus Laodiceia Remains Hiera- 
 polis its Ruins Curious Hot-springs Vultures 279
 
 X CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 LYDIA. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Aneghodl Philadelphia Opium-gathering Sardis its Re- 
 mains Cavalcades of Travellers Camels Cassab<f Return 
 to Smyrna RETROSPECT The People Climate Scenery . . 287 
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 
 REMARKS FOR THE GUIDANCE OF TRAVELLERS 304 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Appendix A. Remarks on Greek Inscriptions 311 
 
 Appendix B. Ancient and Modern Customs compared 333 
 
 INDEX 341 
 
 LIST OF PLACES mentioned in the Journal, as pronounced by 
 the people, and as written by the Royal Geographical Society 345
 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 Marble Tomb at Xanthus Frontispiece. 
 
 Map to face Preface. 
 
 Caravan Bridge page 15 
 
 Inscription on Greek Tomb 27 
 
 Interior of Khan 33 
 
 Tombs at Assos 48 
 
 Inscription at Nicaea 115 
 
 Ionic Temple at ^Ezani 137 
 
 Portico of Temple at ^Ezani 141 
 
 Interior of Turkish House 150 
 
 Tombs in Pamphylia 1 75 
 
 Tombs at Antiphellus 219 
 
 Tombs in Lycia 220 
 
 Lycian Inscriptions 225 
 
 Rock Tombs at Xanthus 226 
 
 Marble Tomb at Xanthus 228 
 
 From Theatre at Xanthus 231 
 
 Sculptures on Tomb at Xanthus 232 
 
 Tombs in Rock of Acropolis at Tlos 238 
 
 Tombs at Telmessus , 245 
 
 Rock Tomb at Telmessus 246 
 
 Temple at Labranda 261
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 LYDIA. 
 
 Arrival at Smyrna Costume Description of the Town Casino Ball 
 Slave-market Manners of the People Greek Church Antiquities 
 Egyptian Customs Departure for Magnesia Caravan Bridge 
 Natural History on the way Khan at Magnesia Journey to Thy- 
 atira, one of the Seven Churches Its Antiquities. 
 
 February \2th, 1838. I AM now in the Frank town of 
 Smyrna, having this evening set foot for the first time 
 in Asia Minor. The whole of the Greek Islands which 
 I have passed since leaving Syra appeared barren and 
 uncultivated, with scarcely a tree to be seen. As we 
 drew near the coast of Asia Minor, the Bay of Smyrna 
 came in sight, bounded by mountains and woods, all 
 green, rich, and beautiful. The approach to the city is 
 ver/ imposing, and the multitude of little boats scud- 
 ding about, though not so picturesque as those of the 
 Italian or Greek Isles, have a striking and characteristic
 
 2 LYDIA. 
 
 effect, the boats being gaily painted, the men all wearing 
 turbans, and the women concealed in white drapery. 
 
 I can scarcely believe that I am in Asia Minor, for 
 my inn (the Navy Hotel) is just like an English public- 
 house. I have heard the guns firing and drums beating 
 on board the different men-of-war stationed opposite to 
 my window, and the band of the Sapphire frigate has 
 been playing " God save the Queen," and " Home, 
 sweet Home." 
 
 February \3th. On looking out of my window this 
 morning, I found that I was really in the East. I be- 
 held a whole city of Turks, a very gay scene ; but the 
 people struck me as being disgustingly fat. The variety 
 of costume, occasioned by the different orders or sects of 
 the Turks, is quite curious. It would be an endless task 
 to describe the varieties, all very unlike the European; 
 and nothing but the pencil could convey an idea of the 
 various head-dresses. I have just seen a man with a 
 turban, which I took for a small sack of flour placed 
 upon his head. The women, although they contrive to 
 have a good view of strangers at a distance, cover up 
 all but one eye as they approach; and some are always 
 thus ensconced, having a horse-hair mask or cowl over 
 the upper part of the face, and the lower part concealed 
 in the same white sheet which covers the rest of the 
 body. The dresses are most splendidly embroidered, a 
 Turk thinking it nothing extraordinary to give fifteen or 
 twenty pounds for a jacket. I saw a child whose clothes 
 must have cost sixty or seventy pounds, the embroidery
 
 SMYRNA. 
 
 being a mass of gold, and one set of clothes was put 
 over another : the child was not above eight years old, 
 but was probably the pet of some wealthy merchant. 
 The expenditure of the Turks in dress is enormous, and 
 of the Greeks also ; at Syra I saw a celebrated Albanian 
 chief of great wealth in his full dress, which I heard, 
 independently of the jewels, was worth many hundred 
 pounds. 
 
 Smyrna is a thickly inhabited town, and the streets 
 are extremely narrow and dirty. The appearance of 
 the people generally seems to me not pleasing ; there 
 is no trace of simplicity of manners, but they look as if 
 they had always lived in the bustle of commerce. I do 
 not like any trait in the character of the Turks which I 
 have yet seen ; what a contrast do they form to the 
 Greeks, who appear all intelligence, and who are cer- 
 tainly simple and unaffected ! At Syra a little boy, 
 eight or nine years of age, acted for an hour as cicerone 
 to our party, and on dismissing him I gave him a piastre, 
 a coin of less value than twopence halfpenny of our 
 money ; on taking it he looked gravely in my face, and 
 tears glistened in his eyes; he kissed my hand, and then 
 pressed it to his forehead : it would require a far larger 
 sum here to obtain such an expression of gratitude. 
 
 The town of Smyrna, which I have now viewed from 
 all sides, in situation is beautiful, but in appearance is 
 exactly like a large town of Swiss chalets. The houses 
 are very much alike, and all of wood, with brown roofs 
 and without chimneys. The few tiers of warehouses on 
 
 B 2
 
 4 LYDIA. 
 
 the Marina or quay are whitened over, but these also 
 are built of wood, the better to bear the shaking of the 
 earthquakes. I do not think that there is a house more 
 than one story above the ground-floor in the town ; the 
 ground-floor is always the bazaar or store-house, the 
 residence being above. The churches, with the excep- 
 tion of the mosques, are like wooden barns, and without 
 tower or belfry. 
 
 I have been admitted to the Casino or public rooms, 
 where there are papers, card-rooms, and billiards, and 
 invited to a ball there on Monday, previously to which 
 I am to dine with our kind and attentive Consul, 
 Mr. Brant. I have been introduced to many Euro- 
 peans here; their manners are peculiar and not pleas- 
 ing, displaying the caution of the English merchant, 
 without the varied acquirements which in England are 
 united with mercantile habits. The Frank people here, 
 having no interest in the country they inhabit, and no 
 voice even in the local government of the town, devote 
 their thoughts wholly to business ; their goods are all 
 the stake they have, and even this interest is limited by 
 the climate and government : no one has a house of 
 value, for the frequent earthquakes place them in jeo- 
 pardy ; and ships of every nation are constantly sta- 
 tioned here, that, on any outbreak of the Turks or the 
 plague, they may at a moment's notice put all they 
 possess on board. 
 
 I have inquired of several gentlemen for some ruins 
 discovered about two years ago in or near the town ;
 
 SMYRNA. 5 
 
 some had only heard there were such ruins, others said 
 they were by the Castle Hill, but they had never been 
 to that point, or not for several years past ; yet the 
 Castle Hill is not half a mile from the centre of the city, 
 and is the only point commanding a view of the town 
 or country ; it has consequently been my daily walk. 
 
 I have been much surprised by finding really beautiful 
 suites of rooms forming the houses of the gentry here ; 
 they consist of long corridors, opening into apartments 
 generally of excellent proportions; all these are over 
 the warehouses, and have no rooms above them. 
 
 The Casino Ball was extremely gay : many of the 
 women, and particularly the middle-aged and old, wore 
 the Greek costume, which is very elegant, although 
 custom has prejudiced me in favour of the more com- 
 pressed waist. The gold-embroidered skull-cap, the 
 braided turban of hair blended with flowers and jewels, 
 the velvet jacket, richly embroidered, with the gay ma- 
 meluke sleeves, form a strikingly beautiful dress. The 
 band from the Sapphire frigate, and the officers in 
 their uniform, added to the gaiety of the room. I 
 came away at about one, but find that most of my 
 friends remained until five, and some until seven o'clock. 
 I have had much attention paid to me, and can truly 
 join with all other visitors of Smyrna in acknowledging 
 the hospitality of its inhabitants. 
 
 Before the ball I dined at the Consul's, with a large 
 party of English, principally officers of the army and 
 navy. When dinner was over (at about eight o'clock) the
 
 6 LYDIA. 
 
 Governor of Smyrna sent to know if he might pay the 
 Consul a visit, who first asked our consent, and then the 
 Governor was ushered into the room. He takes every 
 opportunity of showing respect to the English, and now 
 came to request to be allowed to go to the ball with the 
 Consul. He is an old, merry-looking fellow, but yet 
 with the appearance of deep cunning. He was dressed 
 for the ball in the very undress costume of the Turkish 
 Government, blue cloth clothes and red cap ; but he 
 was distinguished by a splendid locket of diamonds, and 
 rings of the same stone. As soon as he had, by his inter- 
 preter, welcomed us all, his pipe-bearer handed him his 
 pipe, which was of great value, having the mouth-piece 
 of lemon-coloured amber, encircled with diamonds. He 
 refused to drink wine, and persisted in declining ; but, 
 fortunately for him, rum and brandy are not verbally 
 forbidden by the Prophet. The Chief Judge of the town 
 afterwards called, attended by his suite. These two men 
 are despotic, the one condemning and the other execut- 
 ing at his pleasure. The Governor farms his town of 
 the Sultan, paying a certain sum for the year, and makes 
 what he can of the taxes, fees, and fines : immense for- 
 tunes are thus made in a short time, frequently in the 
 most tyrannical way; but the Governor's power only 
 extends over Asiatics. Life and death are in his hands; 
 but money will always satisfy him, and he alone has to 
 be satisfied. 
 
 With the Slave-market I was not so much shocked as 
 I expected, and noticed that the children seemed healthy
 
 SMYRNA. 7 
 
 and happy. I never saw negroes so black ; their skin 
 was bright, and looked as if it had just been black-leaded 
 and well brushed ; they had beautiful teeth , and the necks 
 and wrists of the children were ornamented with beads ; 
 there were only thirty or forty slaves in the market, and 
 they were all young. 
 
 The people, from their custom of sitting cross-legged, 
 and having their feet generally bare, make much use of 
 them. I observed the men who were working the lathe, 
 in turning the amber mouth-pieces for the pipes, press 
 the chisel always with the toes, which were applied as 
 quickly and dexterously as the fingers. With all four 
 paws together at work, they reminded me of the Sun 
 Bears at the Zoological Gardens eating an orange. The 
 tailors iron their work by putting one foot into the iron, 
 and working it about, while with their hands they are 
 arranging the plaits and braiding. The weight carried 
 by the porters in Smyrna is wonderful ; I never saw 
 such burdens borne by men, or men apparently so able 
 to bear them ; the development of muscle in their naked 
 legs amounts almost to deformity. 
 
 On buying a pair of slippers, I was told that last year 
 they were not above two-thirds of their present price, but 
 that so many workmen died during the last season, that 
 all manufactured articles had become dearer. Fourteen 
 thousand Turks and a thousand persons of other na- 
 tions are said to have died in Smyrna alone. 
 
 The children are still brought up in national preju- 
 dices; they hoot after a European and call him Frank,
 
 8 LYDIA. 
 
 Frank-dog, and other such epithets. One little monkey 
 gave me a smart stroke on the back with his stick, but 
 he was soon laughed into a friendly temper. They are 
 afraid of the consequences of their impertinence, and 
 generally secure a retreat behind some door-way before 
 they even call after the stranger. The men are how- 
 ever losing many of these prejudices. Today, whilst I 
 was sketching, (which is an act forbidden by their re- 
 ligion,) several Turks came and watched me for half 
 an hour, and expressed their delight at any new object 
 which they recognised. I was putting in some shipping 
 in the distance, and as I drew each vessel, although on 
 an extremely small scale, they told me what ships they 
 were with great satisfaction ; they also recognised se- 
 veral views I had previously taken. 
 
 The society of an infidel is not, as formerly, shunned 
 by the Turk, and their commercial intercourse is daily 
 increasing ; they naturally appear more suspicious of 
 the Greek than of other nations. 
 
 The annoyances to which a Frank is subject on entering 
 the mosques here are so great that I shall delay visiting 
 them until I arrive at Constantinople. I see the Turks 
 barefooted, and kneeling round the doors and in the 
 colonnades and lobbies round the mosques ; there is 
 much devotion in their attitudes and appearance. 
 
 The three classes of people here, the Turks, Jews, 
 and Christians, have each their own Sabbath, Friday, 
 Saturday, and Sunday. There is in consequence little 
 observance of any one of the days in the town as a whole.
 
 SMYRNA. 9 
 
 I have witnessed a splendid funeral of a wealthy Greek, 
 in which all the church power was engaged, including 
 the highest authority, an archbishop I believe. In the 
 Greek church the dresses are more splendid than in the 
 Romish, but the whole effect is quite in contrast. In 
 this church there is not the slightest semblance of devo- 
 tional feeling, less even than in the Synagogue worship. 
 The priests are ordinary-looking men of the world ; they 
 sing the service in merry time, in a common but rather 
 nasal tone, and look about them as if they were in the 
 crowded streets instead of a place of worship. They 
 are honest-looking men, but have nothing of the priest 
 about them ; a long black beard seemed to be a distinc- 
 tive part of their costume. There is a great deal of 
 bowing and kissing of hands; but all the recitations 
 seem addressed to one another, and I did not see an 
 uplifted eye or any attitude of adoration. There is 
 no altar, and therefore no fixed point for prayer. A 
 candle, which is merely a waxed piece of cotton, is given 
 to every person on entering, and they all keep their hats 
 on during the ceremony. Celibacy is not enjoined upon 
 the priesthood by the Greek Church ; and from their ap- 
 pearance I should say, that they are more in their ele- 
 ment in the noise and bustle of trade and of their families 
 than in the offices of the church. A more different race 
 of beings from the priests of Rome cannot well be ima- 
 gined. 
 
 Camels are the only carriages in Smyrna, if I may use 
 the expression, and you not unfrequently meet eight
 
 10 LYDIA. 
 
 or nine hundred in the course of a walk. The streets 
 are so narrow, that an European, unaccustomed to these 
 animals, requires some nerve when walking under their 
 necks, or standing between them and the wall, while 
 they pass in long strings with their bulky bales of goods 
 suspended from either side. The sheep of the country 
 are the Cape sheep, having a kind of apron tail, entirely 
 of rich marrowy fat, extending to the width of their 
 hind-quarters, and frequently trailing on the ground ; 
 the weight of the tail is often more than six or eight 
 pounds. The common pigeon here is the turtle-dove. 
 
 In all the confined seas in the Mediterranean I have 
 observed the phosphoric light sparkling in the waves 
 caused by our paddle-wheels ; but in the sea here the 
 boats are actually lighted by the illumination from the 
 motion of the oar in the water ; and a belt of light, 
 some inches in width, is drawn around the boat by its 
 motion, whilst a stream of light follows its course. 
 
 The walls of all the buildings in the upper part of the 
 town are formed out of the ruins of ancient Smyrna ; 
 and columns, busts, cornices, and entablatures are seen 
 built in everywhere, and mixed indiscriminately with 
 the volcanic stone of the country. The features of the 
 busts are generally destroyed, to satisfy the scruples of 
 their present owners, the Turks. Hundreds of tomb- 
 stones are constructed of the ornamental parts of an- 
 cient temples, all of white marble. The Jews have 
 bought one hill, formed of a pile of ruins of marble, for 
 tombs for their burial-ground. Near the town I ob-
 
 SMYRNA. 1 1 
 
 served a wall loosely built of stone, and thinking that 
 it looked of a lighter colour than the common stone of 
 the neighbourhood, I went to examine it. It was com- 
 posed of what appeared to be flat stones, about three 
 inches thick, and all of conglomerate or grout ; but to 
 my astonishment I found that the surface of every 
 piece (some were two feet long) was formed entirely of 
 mosaic work, with beautiful patterns in black, white, 
 and red. There must have been hundreds of feet of 
 this, which had no doubt formed the floor of some 
 temple or bath in the immediate neighbourhood, pro- 
 bably of the Temple of Ceres, which is said to have 
 stood here. These blocks of mosaic now form the walls 
 of a corn-field, out of which they must have been dug, 
 for I observed that the small pebbles in the soil were all 
 square pieces of marble of the same size as the stones 
 of the mosaic. Here I saw the top of an arch, with 
 the capitals of its columns only visible above ground, 
 and twenty or thirty feet of loose soil around it, con- 
 taining the ruins of ancient art. Yet no one had been 
 found even to remove the soil to show the proportions 
 of the building, and this on the side of so steep a hill, 
 that probably the rain will soon do what man has not 
 had taste and energy to attempt : the people now prop 
 up the soil of the hill with the capitals of columns or 
 cornices as they are laid bare. 
 
 The spring is rapidly opening ; and I have observed 
 today a number of people with flowers tucked most 
 tastefully into their turbans ; anemone, jonquil, and
 
 12 LYDIA. 
 
 iris adding to the endless variety and gaiety of the 
 head-dress. The Greek women form their own hair, 
 of which they have a profusion, into a turban, mixing 
 it very elegantly with flowers, ribbon, or gauze, and 
 generally putting at the top a skull-cap of gold em- 
 broidery. The children have many gold and silver 
 coins suspended from the head by cords of hair ; and 
 some have their hair in twenty or thirty thin plaits 
 hanging down the back, as it was worn by the ancient 
 Egyptians. The edges of the eyelids also are painted 
 by the Turkish women exactly as was done by that 
 nation. 
 
 I have several times seen the dance so well described 
 by Mr. Lane as performed by the dancing-girls in Egypt; 
 the dance, music, and costume are precisely the same 
 here. 
 
 February 21 st. Tomorrow I leave Smyrna for Mag- 
 nesia*. I was to have started this morning, and the 
 
 * I have throughout my journal made use of the ancient names of 
 places, as being the best known to English readers, from association 
 both with classic and sacred history. When I have used the modern 
 names (which alone are known to the Turks) I have endeavoured to 
 represent the sound of the word in their language by a combination of 
 our letters in such a manner as will not allow of more than one pro- 
 nunciation; and in attempting this I have disregarded the orthography 
 of modern maps, which give names unknown in the country, and 
 useless to the traveller. In pronunciation I have presumed that the 
 vowels will be sounded as in the English alphabet. In the few in- 
 stances in which the a has to be sounded broad, as in father, it is put 
 in italic.
 
 SMYRNA. 13 
 
 horses were brought to the door ; but the wind from the 
 north-east, in which direction we were to travel, was so 
 high and so intensely cold that we could not face it. 
 Ice covers every pool, and even the streams are frozen ; 
 as the sea is dashed up by the wind upon the Marina 
 it immediately forms a coat of ice. Walking to the 
 south of the town I passed the Jews' burial-ground, 
 which I before noticed, and was much struck by its 
 appearance. It is a hill of almost bare rock, of about a 
 mile in extent, and every level spot has a marble slab 
 upon it. The first idea that the place gave me was its 
 strong resemblance to the pictures of the Resurrection ; 
 thousands of tombstones cover the ground, and in as 
 many forms ; from the hardness of the rock, the grave 
 is generally constructed above the surface, perhaps a 
 foot high, and covered with a marble slab ; but grave 
 and slab have been continually torn up by the Turks ; 
 few remain above a year undisturbed, and they seem 
 the stone quarry for the walls and paving in the neigh- 
 bourhood. T saw several in the street near, with dates 
 less than two years old, now torn up and used for build- 
 ing purposes. 
 
 Scarcely one of these tombstones is without some 
 trace of its earlier history ; many have upon them Greek 
 or Roman letters, parts of inscriptions ; and cornices, 
 flutings, capitals, or shafts of columns may be recog- 
 nised in almost all of them. I walked up the hill, and 
 there found the quarry which the Jews had used, on the 
 site of most extensive temples, now only to be recog-
 
 14 LYDIA. 
 
 nised by high hills of white chippings, and long deep 
 trenches, from which even the foundations have been 
 greedily dug up ; a lime-kiln close by had received 
 many relics of marble too small for the purpose of 
 tombstones. 
 
 The view of Smyrna from these heights is very im- 
 posing, and this point, as is usual in the sites of Greek 
 temples, is chosen with admirable judgement both for 
 seeing from and for being seen. 
 
 I have spoken with many enlightened men here, who 
 much regretted the insensibility of the residents to the 
 arts and sciences ; but all say, " We have a glorious sun 
 above our heads and perfect liberty." Each nation has 
 its own idea of liberty ; the Englishman's liberty extends 
 to all those around him ; exclusive liberty in a state is 
 by him received as the proof of the worst of tyranny. 
 I could not boast of liberty where those around me were 
 treated as the Turkish law allows, or while the slave- 
 market stood open in the town. 
 
 February 22nd. Having breakfasted and packed, 
 which latter is a serious matter with the Turks, I started 
 from the inn at half-past eight o'clock. The first horse 
 was ridden by a black-looking surly Turk, our guide, 
 mounted on a saddle or pile of cloaks and padding, which 
 was a sufficient burden for the horse without the rider ; 
 then followed the baggage-horse, bearing my canteen, 
 tent, hammock and mattress, carpet-bag, and saddle-bags 
 containing provisions ; this appeared the slightest made 
 horse, but was the strongest and best suited to its work.

 
 SMYRNA TO MAGNESIA. 15 
 
 My servant and interpreter, Demetrius Scufi*, had a 
 most complete establishment on his saddle, of holsters 
 (used only as bags for knife, string, etc. for the road), and 
 long leathern cases for his umbrella and pipe ; over his 
 shoulders was slung a capital double-barrelled gun. I 
 followed on the fourth horse, equipped as an European ; 
 having purchased for myself saddle and bridle, which 
 articles the Turks never provide with the horses. 
 
 At nine o'clock we arrived at the Caravan Bridge, an 
 object picturesque in itself, and highly interesting to 
 the people of Smyrna, as it is the land-gate or entrance 
 to the city, and all the produce of the East which is 
 shipped from Smyrna necessarily passes over this bridge. 
 A toll or tax upon all caravans is here levied by the Go- 
 vernment, the payment of which gives the title to de- 
 pasture the camels, free of charge, all over the Sultan's 
 dominions. It is a common and characteristic wish of 
 
 * Demetrius Scufi was an excellent travelling servant in every de- 
 partment : the character of a servant in a country like this is unknown, 
 and difficult to conceive, to those who have always travelled with the 
 accommodations met with in Europe; it combines interpreter, cook, 
 tailor, and valet, sportsman, secretary, and companion. Demetrius was 
 a man of good private property, and had his house and little estate near 
 Smyrna, and his two pleasure-horses. He travelled con amore, and had 
 pursued this profession for the last fifteen years in all quarters of the 
 globe, and had been several times to England. He was a native of 
 Hydra, but had spent his life in Smyrna. I paid him a dollar a day, 
 a remuneration which, from his great knowledge of travelling and per- 
 fect honesty, I consider more oeconomical than the lower price which is 
 usually paid to an inferior person. I hope to obtain his services on any 
 future rambles in the East.
 
 16 LYDIA. 
 
 the people to possess the value transported during one 
 day over this bridge. The continual passing of the 
 camels, and necessary halt for transacting the business 
 required by the collector of the toll, make this at all 
 times an animated scene. The Greeks also frequent this 
 neighbourhood on their gala days, and I have here on 
 such occasions witnessed much dancing and festivity 
 among the lower orders. 
 
 After crossing the bridge the road increased in beauty 
 every mile, as we traversed the valley and ascended the 
 mountains to the north-east. For the first ten miles 
 Smyrna, with its rich and beautiful valley, was behind us, 
 and continually showed itself in such an attractive va- 
 riety of views, that I was often tempted to stop and turn 
 to retrace my sfeps over the country, which lay spread 
 out like a map. The predicted destruction of the port 
 of Smyrna, by the promontory formed from the deposit 
 which the river Hermus brings down, is strongly con- 
 firmed by the view from this point. Time alone is re- 
 quired to complete the work, and this is constant and 
 irresistible in its effect. The villages, in which are the 
 country residences of the merchants of Smyrna, furnish 
 conspicuous points of beauty in this extensive landscape. 
 When about twelve miles on our route we halted for 
 half an hour in a valley considerably elevated amidst 
 the hills. The spot was beautiful, and surrounded by 
 well-grown cypress and plane trees. After again pass- 
 ing a succession of hills, the rich and extensive valley 
 of the Hermus opened before us. The descent into the
 
 SMYRNA TO MAGNESIA. 17 
 
 valley was picturesque, wild, and in many parts pre- 
 cipitous. At half-past five we arrived at the ancient 
 Magnesia, now called Manser. The rocks we passed 
 on leaving Smyrna are limestone, although the hill on 
 which the castle stands, and several others, are of a 
 volcanic earth or stone, much resembling granite, and 
 of a dark colour. As we left the valley the hills became 
 almost naked limestone, so white and soft that it 
 seemed to split and crumble as if it had been burnt and 
 was ready for the process of slacking. I saw no trace 
 of fossil remains of any kind. Suddenly, after passing 
 a small valley near the summit, all the range of hills 
 became of a slaty rock, reddish in colour, and so con- 
 torted, that on first seeing it at the bottom of a brook I 
 supposed it the trunk of an old tree : but I soon found 
 myself in a ravine, cut or worn through the hill, con- 
 sisting entirely of this schisty slate, which in places was 
 so twisted that it appeared knotted together and writh- 
 ing into circles and curves in every direction ; part of 
 it is shot through with veins of beautiful white marble, 
 varying from an eighth of an inch to some feet in 
 thickness, entirely, I think, of the kind we call Parian. 
 It is crystallized, sparkling at every fracture. Has not 
 the same agency caused each of these effects ? In the 
 valley formed and still forming by the river are rolled 
 down large stones of this red slate, tied round as it 
 were in all directions by white cords of marble ; large 
 green-coloured stones of the same kind are also rolled 
 from other neighbouring hills. Among the first rocks of
 
 18 LYDIA. 
 
 limestone that we passed were many loose blocks of pe- 
 trified vegetable substances, forming a spongy stone, as 
 also masses of pebbles cemented by the same limy ma- 
 trix ; these were near streams strongly charged with par- 
 ticles of lime, which run in all directions, and therefore 
 are probably not very old, nor far from their birth-place. 
 The fig, vine, and olive enrich this valley, surrounded 
 by the less profitable plane, wild pear, and stone pine. 
 I feel quite sure that the latter is the fir in its natural 
 growth, which I never could see in that state in Italy; 
 even when found in a wood, as is the case near Ravenna, 
 it is always trimmed up to the top, which makes 
 it look like an umbrella. The hills on the limestone 
 side were green as summer, covered with clusters of a 
 dwarf oak*, clothed with extremely small leaves, and 
 so like a miniature holly that until I saw the acorns I 
 fancied it of that species. There were also the juniper, 
 the myrtle, and the oleander; but on the slate rock, 
 although the aspect was the same, the mountains were 
 richly embrowned with the dead leaves of the dwarf oak. 
 The anemones of various colours, and the small dark 
 yellow crocus, made the ground begin to look gay, but 
 the ice was still upon all the pools, and in the evening 
 it was intensely cold. Several times during this ride, 
 upon the baggage getting loose on the horse, I met with 
 instances of the civility of the Turks, who proffered 
 their assistance with cord or whatever was wanted, and 
 
 * Quercus.
 
 SMYRNA TO MAGNESIA. 19 
 
 at other times offered us water, never expecting remu- 
 neration for their attention. I should mention however 
 that on one occasion, when a man came out of a hut 
 and begged to present me with a beautiful brace of red- 
 legged partridges*, a species common in some parts of 
 England, my servant Demetrius refused to receive them, 
 and told me that presents of that kind were always dear, 
 as the giver expected more than their value. 
 
 As we approached Manser we met many trains of 
 natives on asses, and strings of camels, and saw every 
 indication of a large and busy town. On the road-side 
 were buffalos feeding, smaller than those in Calabria, 
 and without the hump ; these, although equally una- 
 miable in their appearance, are much more tame and 
 useful. I saw several with their calves, and others which 
 are evidently used for milking. 
 
 The town of Magnesia lies along the foot of a fine 
 range of hills, backed by the almost perpendicular face 
 of a rocky mountain (Mount Sipylus) , whose top is now 
 slightly capped with snow. At apparently inaccessible 
 places on this cliff are many entrances to artificial caves 
 cut in the shape of doors, evidently tombs of a very early 
 date. The town has a great number of minarets of 
 mosques, and more and better public buildings than 
 Smyrna. I am now in a very fine building, the public 
 khan. It is as extensive as any Italian palace, and 
 built entirely of stone and iron ; each room is dome- 
 
 * Perdix rufus. 
 
 c2
 
 20 LYDIA. 
 
 topped, with iron gratings and shutters to the windows, 
 and an iron door, which was unlocked by a black slave 
 with immense keys ; the heavy door opened and I 
 walked in, as if into a prison, but found it so clean, that 
 although it offered little more than bare walls, I liked 
 its appearance better than that of any house I had seen 
 for months. Mats were spread on the floor, and un- 
 folding my stores, all other comforts, together with an 
 excellent dinner, were quickly supplied. For the first 
 time I am lying on my travelling mattress, and sur- 
 rounded by pens, ink, and paper, with my canteen for a 
 table ; but I shall have other khans to describe probably 
 different from this, and the present may give but little 
 idea of the accommodations in travelling in this country. 
 Manser is a very extensive place, but the houses are 
 wholly built of mud, and the streets here, as in all the 
 towns that I have yet seen, are covered over from house 
 to house with canvas, mats, or vines on trellis, shading 
 the street from th^ sun ; and thus the shops only are 
 visible to the traveller, who can gain but an imperfect 
 view of the town. 
 
 February 23rd. From Manser we started before nine 
 o'clock, well mounted, and travelled across the valley 
 directly north. At two miles' distance we crossed the 
 river Hermus by a wooden bridge, and, almost imme- 
 diately after, its tributary the Hyllus, by a ferry ; the 
 latter is larger than the main river, which it joins within 
 a furlong of the ferry. The valley over which we con- 
 tinued to ride must be at least twelve miles directly across
 
 MAGNESIA TO THYATIRA. 21 
 
 from Manser, but we bore to the eastward up the valley 
 of the Hyllus. The land is excellent, and I scarcely 
 saw a stone during the first eighteen miles. Cotton and 
 corn grow luxuriantly, but there are few trees except 
 the willow and pollard poplar. 
 
 At the solitary stable or rest-house half way to Acsa, 
 (the ancient Thyatira, one of the Seven Churches,) I 
 found the well-coping formed of the capital of a column 
 of white marble veined with red. A burial-ground ad- 
 joining was filled with triglyphs and columns of a 
 similar stone, and the people said that they were brought 
 from Sardis ; but this is scarcely probable, as they would 
 have had to be carried a very considerable distance. 
 My informant said that within a few miles were some 
 ruins, (from the direction, perhaps Apollonis,) and that 
 much stone was fetched from there. 
 
 The valley along which I was now travelling inclined 
 to the north-east, and became much narrower ; at times 
 it was intersected by the lengthened feet of the hills, on 
 either side showing bare rocks of white marble, some- 
 times with veins of red, but with no appearance of the 
 crystallization which I noticed near Mount Sipylus. 
 Following the course of the river, the banks of which 
 were of a white drifting sand, the debris of the marble, 
 I passed over the stream, and crossed an extent of bleak, 
 uncultivated country. Two Turks looking wild with 
 fear stopped us, and said they had just been robbed of 
 all their money and baggage by two men, and that three 
 others were in the same gang. Although our import-
 
 22 LYD1A. 
 
 ance as Europeans would be some protection, from the 
 inquiries which would be made if anything were to befall 
 us, nevertheless Demetrius, whose gun had already 
 killed a couple of wild ducks and a starling, and who 
 had loaded for more of the feathered race, at once added 
 some buttons as bullets to his charge ; I covered my 
 watch-strings, and we all kept together to make our 
 party appear the more imposing. We made inquiry of 
 two other Turks, who had seen the robbers, and had in 
 consequence made a circuit ; they attributed their safety 
 however to their show of pistols, which, like those of 
 all their nation, were awfully large and very handsome. 
 We passed on, and neither saw nor heard more of the 
 robbers, who I strongly suspect never existed. 
 
 The country as we approached Acsa became very low 
 and marshy, and seemed only occupied by wild ducks, 
 swans, plovers, and water-hens. For some miles we 
 passed over a paved road, for the most part of stones 
 rounded by the rivers; but along the edge of the road, 
 which was built up with more care, I frequently saw 
 marble cornices and beautifully cut stones ; and in the 
 walls and burial-ground at the entrance of the town 
 there were numerous pieces of columns, many of gra- 
 nite, stuck in the ground as Turkish gravestones. The 
 scenery has been all day extremely beautiful, and the 
 land, which is always rich, would be valuable if suffi- 
 ciently cultivated, but it is much neglected. The distant 
 mountains bounding the valleys only varied in beauty. 
 
 Within a few miles of this town I saw the trace of a
 
 MAGNESIA TO THYATIRA. 
 
 23 
 
 cart-wheel, and I find that such vehicles are occasion- 
 ally used here in husbandry ; these are the first carriages 
 that I have seen or heard of in Asia Minor ; and here 
 there are no roads, but they carry the produce from the 
 field to the farm, and then roll it into the town in carts, 
 the street being made wide enough to admit them. 
 
 We arrived at Acsa at five o'clock, after travelling 
 thirty-six miles, much of the way at the rate of six miles 
 an hour. 
 
 This town teems with relics of a former splendid city, 
 although there is not a trace of the site of any ruin or 
 early building. I saw ten or a dozen well-tops or troughs 
 made of the capitals of columns of different kinds. 
 
 In a portion not exceeding one-third of a burial- 
 ground I counted one hundred and thirty parts of co- 
 lumns; and upon measuring them, and noticing their 
 orders, I found that seven or eight distinct temples or 
 buildings must have contributed; one Corinthian column 
 was flat at each angle, ready for fluting, but only partly 
 finished. The streets are in places paved with fragments 
 of carved stone. I saw several columns of granite, some
 
 24 LYDIA. 
 
 of red-veined white marble, and some of grey and white; 
 also some small columns, or rather two-third pilasters, 
 I fancy of a later date than the other remains, but I may 
 be in error*. 
 
 For two miles out of the town the mouths or curbs of 
 the wells are formed of the capitals of extremely fine 
 Corinthian pillars, the bucket being drawn through 
 holes cut in the centre. I was prevented from sketch- 
 ing many that I admired by the rain, which continued 
 during the day. 
 
 Just before I left, the ex-governor was escorted out 
 of the town in state by all the Turkish grandees of the 
 place, about thirty in number, in full dress, well mounted 
 and ostentatiously armed, producing a fine effect. 
 
 * I have since found this kind of column an unerring indication of 
 the Christian age ; it probably formed a part of the interior ornament 
 of the church.
 
 25 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 MYSIA. 
 
 Journey to Soma Inscriptions Proceed to Pergamus Its Antiquities 
 and Situation A Khan Natural History of the Country Adra- 
 myttium Assos Its Architectural Remains Its Tombs Manners 
 of the People Alexandrian Troy Its Ruins Hot-springs Stone 
 Quarry with Columns Enae Implements and Customs of the 
 Ancients retained Plains of Troy Arrival at the Dardanelles 
 Abydos and its Antiquities. 
 
 February 24th. TRAVELLING W.N.W. from Thyatira, 
 we rode for several miles over low bog- land, at a foot- 
 pace ; then quitting the level we gradually ascended to 
 a rich cultivated country, which became more pictu- 
 resque as we passed over a range of limestone hills. 
 At about twenty miles' distance a splendid and exten- 
 sive valley opened upon us, in which appeared, not far 
 off, Kirkagatch, and immediately before us Bakir. 
 
 All the Turkish towns that I have seen have, in their 
 style of building, the appearance of Swiss villages, with 
 the exception only of the white mosque towers ; the 
 towns before us resembled them in situation also, being 
 at the feet of very high rocky mountains, and the valley 
 in the front of them being bounded by another exqui-
 
 26 MYSIA. 
 
 sitely beautiful range. I have nowhere seen valleys so 
 wide, rich, and cultivated as in this part of Asia Minor. 
 Cotton seems the principal produce. 
 
 Passing Kirkagatch, we kept close under the cliffs, 
 which were of white marble, but in places stained almost 
 scarlet with a kind of ochre, and in some places yellow, 
 the veins or perhaps original cracks being saturated with 
 this stain ; this is evidently the source of the varied 
 stripes in the marbles seen in the ruins in the neigh- 
 bourhood. I should have been disposed to think that 
 this is also the cause of the masses of perfectly red 
 marble (the rosso antico,) which lie about in all direc- 
 tions, carried down by the rivers from the mountains ; 
 but that I have frequently seen these red blocks them- 
 selves veined with white. 
 
 The stone fir is extremely fine here, and the colour 
 the most lively yet rich green that can be imagined; in 
 the long spines are frequently seen tufts as large as a 
 bird's nest ; I opened one, and found that it contained 
 some hundreds of full-grown caterpillars comfortably 
 housed for the winter. The hedges are of a small kind 
 of arbutus and jasmine, with myrtles, clematis, and 
 other shrubs that I have before mentioned ; the walnuts 
 are magnificent, as well as the planes*, which I have 
 not seen growing wild in any other country. 
 
 About eight miles more, making thirty-two in all, 
 brought us to Sdma, at three o'clock, having ridden the 
 distance in six hours. Since losing the traces of Acsa, 
 
 * Platanus orien tails.

 
 ONMXIMOEOTTATM 
 
 RNETTOIMZANKAIE 
 
 AYTOIZ 
 
 

 
 THYATIRA TO PERGAMUS. 27 
 
 I have seen no relics of antiquity, even in the most 
 certain haunts, the burial-grounds, nor are any visible 
 in this town. I have been shown into a one-arched 
 vault, about one hundred feet long and twenty-five wide, 
 now used as a stable ; it has three groins or projecting 
 arches, rising on each side from as many marble pede- 
 stals, which I find are square, and let two-thirds into 
 the wall, so as to appear like pilasters. On these are 
 some Greek inscriptions. I have taken an impression of 
 one by placing paper over the stone, and then rubbing 
 the paper with a mixture of black-lead and soap. Of 
 this I have given a copy in the annexed plate*. 
 I have also copied two others f. 
 
 OEYAAEKAIMENA 
 
 EVNOIKUTUOPCBEU 
 
 MNEIAEXAMPA^g 
 
 I imagine that the building is a work of the Romans, 
 and that these altar-shaped stones are old Greek mate- 
 rials used by them. 
 
 Hearing that there were some remains within three 
 miles of this place, I walked to the spot, passing up one 
 of the beautiful dells so peculiar to a mountain-lime- 
 stone country, clothed with such planes and walnuts as 
 
 * The translation is as follows : " Onesimus, the father, and Chryseis, 
 the mother, made [this tomb] for their sweetest child Polychronius, for 
 the sake of remembrance, and for themselves." 
 
 t These may also have been funereal.
 
 2& MYSIA. 
 
 I never before saw. I reached at length a crow's-nest 
 town on the peak of a rock, surrounded on all sides by 
 mountains, and so completely shut in that I could not 
 see the ravine by which I had approached. Probably the 
 people had never before seen Europeans, for the whole 
 town came out to look at us. The remains were evidently 
 Byzantine, having stone ornaments with birds and 
 snakes fighting, and the knotted arabesque patterns and 
 rude carving of that age. In the street, for a horse- 
 block, stood a marble pedestal the wrong end upwards 
 with a Greek inscription, in form and age the same as 
 those in Soma. 
 
 nOMRHIOZITO 
 
 EKTHNIAinNAYTOY 
 EIAZXAPIN * 
 
 I am now in a little room in the khan at Soma, 
 where, on my return, I found a couple of excellent wild 
 ducks ready for my dinner, which soon disappeared. 
 It is about nine feet square, and is now fully fur- 
 nished, though I found only bare walls. Demetrius 
 is snoring at my feet, with his gun and saddle-bags 
 hanging over his head ; the contents of the canteen are 
 arranged in readiness for my breakfast, and I am sitting 
 with my canteen-box as my table, and writing by the 
 luxurious but inconsistent light of wax candles, enjoy- 
 
 * " Pompeius [erected this tomb] to his own [son ?], at his own ex- 
 pense, for the sake of remembrance."
 
 THYATIRA TO PERGAMUS. 29 
 
 ing thoroughly the comfort of dry clothes, after having 
 been all day wet through. My candles were purchased 
 at Smyrna, and are " patent wax with twisted wicks," 
 from England. Probably the wicks may have been in 
 this country before. I understand that the people of 
 Asia Minor find the English patent wax candles cheaper 
 and better than their own; this is also the case in Italy. 
 
 On leaving Soma, after a gentle rise from the valley, 
 a new and beautiful country opened before me, not so 
 bold, but more expanded, and surrounded by a chain of 
 mountains. I saw the plains of Pergamus, watered by 
 the Caicus and its tributary streams ; we crossed one of 
 them, or rather passed its source ; it sprung up by the 
 road-side so strongly, that within fifty yards it turned a 
 mill, and was a stream a foot deep and ten or twelve 
 wide. It is said to be tepid, but I did not stop to take 
 out my thermometer. 
 
 The birds here are all either very bold or very tame, 
 not moving until you are close to them. Three large 
 eagles sat by the road, and did not rise until we were 
 so near that we could almost feel the wafting of their 
 immense wings ; the noise was startling, but our horses 
 were not timid. I had never before been so near eagles 
 at liberty, and this was on an open plain ; but rocky 
 mountains shadowed us, in the craggy sides of which 
 these aspirants soon found their home. We had a 
 delightful ride of seven hours and a half, about thirty- 
 two miles, through a country so swampy with the heavy 
 rains of yesterday that we had to travel slowly. The
 
 30 MYSIA. 
 
 road varied but little in interest until within eight miles 
 of this place, the ancient Pergamus, now Bdrgama ; nor 
 did we see even in the burial-grounds any trace of what 
 my servant calls " old stones;" but on stopping at that 
 point to let the horses drink, I observed that the trough 
 was the inverted lid of a sarcophagus; and a little further 
 on I had the baggage unpacked, and remained an hour 
 to copy some long Greek inscriptions built sideways into 
 a fountain. 
 
 PO JZATPAH EYONTO 
 
 ZErmPTTAMIOZIZ 
 
 AfOPOYKfATEYAZE 
 
 AftKErAPIZTOMEN 
 
 EITIinriAHFPON 
 
 EnOIKIZAirPOZTftl 
 
 <I>YTOITO IZri KPATEY 
 
 A<l>YTEYOENTIOAEnE 
 
 PIBOAOZEZTINTHZE 
 
 HZZrOPOYKYFPUN I K 
 
 ATOM EBAOM H KONTA 
 
 KAIOIKOfEAAKAIKIA 
 
 4>OPOZAETOYKFrO 
 
 XPOYZOYZEKAZTO 
 
 ENIAYTOY* 
 
 * This inscription appears to relate to the planting of a garden with 
 cypresses at a certain period, and to the tenure of the garden together 
 with dwellings annexed to it.
 
 THYATIRA TO PERGAMUS. 31 
 
 [AnA0HITYXHI[OIK]ONOMOYNTOZ 
 
 AHMHTPIoYMHNOZ0APrHAiniSIOZ 
 
 AEYTEPAIAAEEftNAAMflNOZEl 
 
 nENNOMONEINAirAMBPEIflTAIZ 
 
 TAZnEN0OYZAZEXEIN<l>AIANEZ0[H] 
 
 TAMHKATEPPYrmMENHNXPHZ0AI 
 
 AEKAITOYZANAPAZKAITOYZflAIAAZ 
 
 TOYZn EN0OYNTAZEZeHTI<|)AI Al 
 
 EAMMHBOYAHNTAIAEYKHIEniTE 
 
 AEINAETANOMIMATOIZAflOIXOME 
 
 NOIZEZXATONENTPIZIMHZINTIilA[E] 
 
 TETAPTOIAYEINTAnENeHTOYZAN 
 
 APAZTAZAEPYN Al KAZTHH EM HTfll 
 
 KAIEEANIZTAZ0AIEKTHZKHAEIAZ 
 
 KAIEKHOPEYEZGAITAZrYNAIKAZH 
 
 TAZEZOAOYZTAZENTHI NOMHI fE 
 
 TPAM M EN AZEH AN AFKoNTON AEfY 
 
 NAIKONOMONTONYHOTOYAHMOYAI 
 
 POYMENONTOIZArNIZMOIZTOIZHPO 
 
 THN0EZMCXl>OPinNEnEYXEZeAITOIZEM 
 
 MENOYZINKAITAIZnEI0OMENAIZTIll 
 
 AETOINOMIllEYEINAIKAITIlNYnAPXON 
 
 TnNArA0flNONHZINTOIZAEMHnEI0O 
 
 MENOIZMHAETAIZEMMENOYZAIZTA 
 
 NANTIAKAIMHOZIONAYTAIZEINAIHE 
 
 AZEBOYZAIZ0YEINMH0ENI0EnNEniAE 
 
 KAETHTONAEMETAAHMHTPION
 
 32 MYSIA. 
 
 ZTE4>AN H<K>PONTAM I AN Al PE0ENTA 
 
 ANAFPA^AITON AETONNOMON EIZAYO 
 
 ZTHAAZKAIANA0EINAITHMMEN 
 
 M I AN PI PCrmN0YPflNTOY0EZMO4>O 
 
 PIOYTHNAEnPOTOYNEirTHZAPTE 
 
 M I AOZTHZAOXI AZAN EN El KATH 
 
 AEOTAM I AZTOAN AAHM ATOPE 
 
 NOMENONEIZTAZTHAAZTOI 
 
 npirmiAonzTHPini * 
 
 * Translation. 
 
 " May it be fortunate. 
 
 " In the Treasurership of Demetrius, on the second day of the month 
 Thargelion, Alexon, son of Damon, declared it to be a law for relations 
 by marriage [?] , that the female mourners should wear clean grey cloth ; 
 that the men and boys engaged in the mourning should also wear grey, 
 unless they prefer white ; that they should perform the rites appointed 
 by law for the departed at the latest in three months ; that the men 
 should terminate their mourning in the fourth month, and the women 
 in the fifth ; that the women, or the trains appointed in the law as a 
 matter of necessity, should then rise from the lamentation and go forth ; 
 that the Gynaeconomus, chosen by the people, should, at the purifica- 
 tion preceding the Thesmophoria, pray for prosperity and the enjoy- 
 ment of their existing possessions on behalf of those men who abide by, 
 and those women who obey, this law, and imprecate the contrary upon 
 those men and women who do not obey ; and that the Treasurer chosen 
 after Demetrius, bearing a crown, should inscribe this law upon two 
 pillars, and place one of them before the gates of the temple of [Ceres] 
 Thesmophoros, and the other before the temple of Artemis [i.e. Diana] 
 Lochia. And let the Treasurer carry the sum expended to the pillars 
 [or columns] in the first Chamber of Accounts."
 
 PERGAMUS. 33 
 
 Vegetation is rapidly bursting into life ; the labur- 
 num, which is here dwarf, is coming into leaf ; the olive 
 and fig grow wild. We met several caravans of camels, 
 carrying cotton. Each camel carries three hundred and 
 sixty okes, or about half a ton weight, for a day together 
 without stopping to rest. 
 
 Pergamus, February 26th. I am again in a khan, and 
 must say that I never liked an inn half so much ; it is 
 pleasant to see all the furniture around me my own, 
 and to feel that my room is my castle. Here the tra- 
 veller finds only bare walls, with a few nails arranged 
 for hanging things upon. When I return from the 
 stroll I generally take, to stretch my legs after the day's 
 ride, I find carpet, bedding, and writing-apparatus ar- 
 ranged for me, and a meal prepared in a room that 
 appears well furnished ; and I have no fear of leaving 
 anything behind, for I take everything in the room away 
 with me. In the morning, on awaking, I find my toilet 
 around me, and the kettle boiling for breakfast. I had 
 previously laid in a store of tea at Corfu, an article 
 which is unknown here. Give me a good servant and 
 a khan, and I will not wish for the bows of a landlord 
 or the troublesome attentions of a waiter. But perhaps 
 the novelty of the scene may influence me. 
 
 In the khan by eight o'clock all is asleep, and mine 
 the only light burning. In the immediate vicinity of 
 a khan is always to be seen a mosque, from whose pic- 
 turesque minaret the Adan, or call to prayer, is re- 
 peated every five hours ; first addressed towards Mecca, 
 
 D
 
 34 MYSIA. 
 
 and afterwards to each of the cardinal points. The 
 tone is very harmonious, and the words are dwelt 
 upon with a prolonged sound, making in the stillness 
 of the night a chant which is solemn and striking ; 
 its meaning is simple and beautiful: "God is most 
 great!" " I testify that there is no deity but God;" 
 " I testify that Mahomet is God's apostle ! Come to 
 prayer ; come to security ! God is most great : there is 
 no deity but God !" and the voice may be heard at a 
 great distance, the elevation being considerable and the 
 tone powerful and distinct. There appears so much to 
 interest in this town, that I shall spend the whole of 
 tomorrow here. 
 
 February 27th. I have now seen the town, and am 
 not disappointed, never having enjoyed the excitement 
 of discovery more than on this day. The Turks take 
 you round, and show all they have not themselves built, 
 calling every ruin by the simple name of the " old 
 walls." They know nothing of traditions, for they are 
 only conquerors here, and extremely ignorant ; but I 
 required no guide ; the stupendous ruins proclaimed 
 their builders, and their situation told who selected it. 
 The site of the theatre is truly Greek. It embraces in 
 its view the city, and the plains of Pergamus with its 
 chain of mountains, and is lit by the rising sun. There 
 is in the middle of the city a ruin of such extent that it 
 can have been nothing less than the palace of a Roman 
 emperor, and that worthy of an Adrian. 
 
 The river has five bridges, one of splendid masonry,
 
 PERGAMUS. 35 
 
 so wide that it forms a tunnel a furlong in length, 
 upon which a portion of this great palace stands. I 
 have been into many long and beautifully built vaults 
 or cisterns, and several mosques and khans now oc- 
 cupying the buildings of the ancients. The most in- 
 teresting is a mosque, from its style doubtless a church 
 of the early Christians, in which the Epistles may have 
 been read to the first disciples. The walls of the Turkish 
 houses are full of relics of marble, with ornaments of the 
 richest Grecian art. I have sketched many, but they 
 
 are innumerable. All the works standing are magni- 
 ficent, but are not of marble, nor in a style of building 
 showing elegance. The amphitheatre on the south-west 
 of the castle, though in ruins, is a wonderful building. 
 A river runs through it, and the arches, now under- 
 ground, are equal in workmanship to any that I have 
 seen. Those above have probably been as fine ; but, 
 although they now stand tier above tier, all the joints 
 have been chipped, as in the Coliseum at Rome, 
 and not a seat remains ; the stupendous works under- 
 ground will defy the exertions of the Turks to remove 
 them. Triumphal arches and houses in ruins are to be 
 
 D2
 
 36 MYSIA. 
 
 seen in the town, with the Turks' huts among them, 
 bearing the same proportion to them as the nests of 
 the storks to the ruined palaces, in which they alone 
 now reign. The burial-grounds also are full of fine 
 relics. I have been out today from seven to five 
 o'clock, and have quite tired myself with sketching, 
 and should be tempted to do so each day if I were to 
 stay a week. 
 
 The marbles found here are numerous, and are con- 
 tinually taken off for the museums of Europe. The 
 French sent a vessel last year for a bath and statue, 
 which had been for years unnoticed. I could not have 
 imagined to what variety of uses columns may be ap- 
 plied ; they are to be had for nothing, and are therefore 
 used for every purpose. The modern town is as busy 
 and thriving as heavy taxation will allow, and has seven 
 or eight khans. 
 
 We left Bergama at nine o'clock, and proceeded di- 
 rectly into the mountains towards the north, at the foot 
 of which the town stands. On the right I saw in two 
 places the ruins of aqueducts ; these connect the hills, 
 which are picturesque, but somewhat monotonous, re- 
 sembling the Apennines north of Florence. As we 
 ascended they became covered with the stone pine, and 
 occasionally splendid specimens of the plane, with un- 
 derwood of the dwarf oak ; hyacinths of several kinds 
 looked very gay, mixed with the anemone and pale lilac 
 crocus. The hills were successively of limestone and 
 what appeared to be immense mounds of sand, with very
 
 PERGAMUS TO ASSOS. 37 
 
 large rounded rocks on their sides, but which on reach- 
 ing them I found to be of the same substance as the 
 castle rock of Smyrna, a kind of bastard granite ; it de- 
 composes so rapidly, that to the leeward of each rock 
 was a heap of particles similar to the sand of the whole 
 surface of the mountain, and looking like a snow-drift. 
 In many places these round rocks had rolled from oppo- 
 site hills upon the limestone rocks, and the combination 
 made it somewhat difficult to know whence came the 
 sand. 
 
 Karavaren, where I am now sitting in a mud-built 
 barn, is about fifteen miles from Bergama, and amidst 
 the mountains. It contains scarcely a dozen hovels ; 
 but we have travelled so excessively slowly (fifteen miles 
 in six hours), that this is the only halting-place we can 
 reach ; it is quite a mountain village, and the manage- 
 ment of a few goats seems to be the only care of the 
 people. 
 
 We have been in a wood all the day, not an acre being 
 cultivated ; the cutting of timber, which the camels 
 transport, and the herds of goats feeding, furnished, 
 with our caravan, the only signs of life. The com- 
 pany of a caravan I hope in future to avoid, at all 
 events to get ahead of it. It is a great annoyance to 
 follow in a train of seventeen horses close behind each 
 other ; if one trips, stops to catch at the branches of the 
 trees, or has occasion to have the baggage re-arranged, 
 the whole cavalcade is checked. Towards the latter end 
 of our journey I managed to take the lead, which no
 
 38 MYSIA. 
 
 only prevented my feeling the interruption, but quick- 
 ened the whole party. The Post in this country is esta- 
 blished by order of the Government on all roads con- 
 necting large towns ; it is used solely for the Tartars 
 or Government couriers, and the diplomatic agents or 
 governors communicating with the capital ; the rate of 
 charge is therefore fixed, and at the very low price of a 
 piastre, or less than twopence halfpenny, for each horse 
 per hour, or about four miles in distance : a small 
 sum is added for the post-boy, and a present or back- 
 shish is expected by the ostlers at the stations. The 
 charge of the post-master does not of course remunerate 
 him, he being only an agent who obtains horses, on ap- 
 plication of the travellers, from the farmers or people of 
 the town, frequently paying them more than he can le- 
 gally charge ; he is therefore allowed by the Government 
 a high salary, in order to indemnify him from loss. The 
 traveller without a firman can demand horses, but the 
 price then becomes a matter of bargain. Hitherto I have 
 had post horses; but now, no longer travelling on a post 
 road, there is a difficulty in procuring them, and there- 
 fore we are now to be carried for two days by horses 
 hired, the owners of which accompany us, and generally 
 arrange to join other parties, in order to render mu- 
 tual assistance. Like all travellers in this country, my 
 companions are so much disposed to sociability, that we 
 form a party of seventeen, instead of only my own four 
 horses. 
 
 Having no firman at present, which is only to be
 
 PERGAMUS TO ASSOS. 39 
 
 procured at Constantinople, I am obliged to pay double 
 the usual posting charges. When I have obtained my 
 firman they will be very moderate, but for one person 
 the travelling is expensive. I pay sixteen shillings 
 a-day for four horses, and the services of the owners, 
 who accompany me. 
 
 From the highest point of the mountain today I had 
 a fine view of another of those productive valleys so pe- 
 culiar to this country, which towards the east is watered 
 by the Mysius, a river joining the Caicus. In most 
 countries that I have visited, with the exception of a 
 part of Italy, hill and valley vary every mile ; but here 
 the perfectly flat plain, of immense extent, is girt in by 
 its mountains ; detached from these ranges not a hill 
 is to be seen. 
 
 March 1st. By seven o'clock in the morning we had 
 breakfasted, packed, and were proceeding through the 
 mountains. The whole distance from Bdrgama to Ke- 
 mereh is occupied by the pass of the mountains. We 
 were fourteen hours making the passage, and nearly 
 three hours more in crossing the valley to this place, 
 Adramit, the ancient Adramyttium. This mountain- 
 pass is extremely wild, and occasionally beautiful ; 
 scarcely a trace of a cottage is to be seen the whole 
 distance. About four miles from Karavaren I saw in a 
 burial-ground several columns, and among the wilder- 
 ness of immense round rocks or boulders, I observed 
 many squared stones of considerable size; and overhead, 
 on the peak of an isolated rocky hill, old walls of good
 
 40 MYSIA. 
 
 masonry were visible. The exceedingly fine and com- 
 manding situation induced me to be on the look-out for 
 some trace of former residents : at present the whole 
 seemed deserted. This would appear from the map to 
 have been the ancient Lyrnessus. At Kemereh also I 
 saw columns and squared or wrought stones, but from 
 the cross and other ornaments seen upon them, I fancy 
 they must have been the relics of a later date than the 
 Greek. 
 
 This valley of Keme'reh, which is far smaller than the 
 others I have passed, is highly cultivated and beautiful ; 
 the olive-trees are very fine, old, and numerous ; and 
 the vine is trained on trellis, as in Italy. I heard that 
 this mode is peculiar, in Asia Minor, to this place. 
 Here I noticed two houses built in the European style, 
 there being nothing else European in the town. It 
 was the dirtiest place I ever slept in ; all the streets 
 were filthy. 
 
 During this day's ride it rained in torrents for seven 
 hours ; my hood screened my body, but my legs and 
 saddle were soaked, and a stream was running from 
 my heels all the morning. The series of hills that we 
 had passed since leaving Bergama had generally been 
 of a soft granite, while some of the intersecting ones 
 and higher ranges were of limestone, and one part of a 
 shining slaty stone. The granite was generally spread 
 over the country in immense boulders ; and these were 
 so rapidly decomposing, that each had to the leeward a 
 heap, such as I have before described as looking like a
 
 PERGAMUS TO ASSOS. 41 
 
 snow-drift, formed of its particles. I observed much 
 of the Lichen geographicus, covering, and indeed hold- 
 ing together, these decomposing stones. On this soil 
 the oak seems to spring up spontaneously, and the 
 whole country around is covered with brushwood. The 
 boulders being of a description of granite, and evi- 
 dently igneous, I was surprised to see them intersected 
 with horizontal strata of marble, of course the gradual 
 deposit of waters ; the marble was not crystallized. 
 After I had been puzzling over this appearance for some 
 time, I noticed in the same stones veins of marble shoot- 
 ing out in all directions. Had the substances been re- 
 versed, I should have thought the heated liquid granite 
 might have shot into the crevices of the marble ; but 
 shortly after I saw rock with perpendicular fissures filled 
 with marble. This led me to think that the cracks and 
 fissures in the cooling rocks had been the receptacles for 
 the waters filtering from the limestone, forming moulds, 
 in which these beautiful white veins, now girting in 
 all directions the stones washed down the river, had 
 been cast. Having noticed these facts, I saw that the 
 mountains were ribbed with lines of white marble, and 
 the road afterwards became almost impeded by little 
 walls, perhaps a foot high, of hard marble ; the mould 
 of granite in which they were cast having perished and 
 been washed away in sand. Afterwards, in winding 
 along the side of a mountain, we passed into richly 
 wooded ravines, with a sandy soil, and then had to 
 proceed round a projecting cliff of bare rocky marble.
 
 42 MYSIA. 
 
 Thus the same formation may be traced, from the striped 
 stone on the road to the marble cliffs and the ravines, 
 of decomposed granite rock. 
 
 The road from Adramit, a town in which no traces of 
 antiquities are to be found, except in a few coins picked 
 up in the neighbourhood, lay for nearly two hours 
 through fine woods of olives, and along the sea-coast or 
 gulf which takes its name from this town. I here saw, 
 on a font, a marble which had been part of a handsome 
 frieze, exhibiting the bull's head and wreath, so com- 
 mon in Greek architecture, and one or two fragments 
 of columns. 
 
 We then traversed the coast through woods of the 
 richest trees, the planes being the handsomest to be 
 found in this, or perhaps any other, pail of the world. 
 I have never seen such stupendous arms to any trees. 
 There were a few walnuts and pines, and the country for 
 fifty miles was covered with olives, which still furnish 
 the principal trade of this part of Asia Minor. The 
 underwood was of myrtle, growing sometimes twenty 
 feet high, the beautiful daphne laurel, and the arbutus; 
 and these seemed contending for pre-eminence with the 
 vine, clematis, and woodbine, which climbed to their 
 very tops, and in many instances bore them down into a 
 thicket of vegetation, impervious except to the squirrels 
 and birds, which, sensible of their security in these re- 
 treats, stand boldly to survey the traveller. A kind of 
 grape-hyacinth and the arum, added to varieties of ane- 
 mones, cover the ground. I observed that the crows
 
 PERGAMUS TO ASSOS. 43 
 
 here are grey-bodied*, but am informed that the black 
 crow is also known. 
 
 In the dirty khan at Adramit I had the choice of two 
 rooms, the best of which was very offensive, having 
 been recently filled with skins of cheese and oil. I had 
 it swept, and a large fire made to purify it, but for nearly 
 an hour it was not fit for me to enter ; so I loitered 
 about, and looked into the room next to my own. On 
 a clean mat, crouching in the corner, were two fine 
 slaves ; their owner seemed very kind to them, and 
 was feeding them with delicacies. All the slaves I 
 have at present seen, generally from Ethiopia, are de- 
 cidedly longer in the leg-joint from the ankle to the 
 knee than any race of human beings with which I am 
 acquainted. A person seeing the leg only would ex- 
 pect to find them extremely tall, but this is by no means 
 the case. 
 
 As the post-master makes me take five horses, we 
 have caused quite a sensation in this little village, which 
 lies in a ravine high above the sea, another of the 
 crow's-nest sites chosen by the early Greeks ; its name 
 is Chetme. There being no khan, I had to beg the go- 
 vernor of the place to extend to me the hospitality usual 
 towards strangers, and this gave me an opportunity of 
 observing Turkish manners. As I sat on my horse, 
 surrounded by my little suite, and waiting the termina- 
 tion of the mosque service, I soon became the object of 
 
 * Corvus comix, the hooded crow.
 
 44 MYSIA. 
 
 curiosity to the younger and perhaps lower persons 
 among the inhabitants ; but the elder, or those assuming 
 any authority, passed by, merely giving me a salute in 
 the Turkish language, Ooroler, meaning 'Welcome, 
 stranger.' Among these was the Aga, or principal man, 
 the governor of the village, who knew I waited only to 
 speak to him, but would not compromise his dignity by 
 transacting his official business in the street; and we 
 consequently had to follow him half a mile to his hut, 
 where, on his arrival, he ascended a few steps leading to 
 a stage or trellised platform of wood in front of the hut. 
 His carpet and pipe having been brought to him, he 
 sat down in state to listen to my request, making a sign 
 to me to be seated ; and during the whole interview he 
 never uttered a word, or even looked at me. A sign 
 w r as made by him to an attendant, who thereupon led us 
 to the stranger's house, and remained as my servant. 
 I observed that, as soon as we turned our backs, this 
 stately Aga was on tiptoe, watching with great anima- 
 tion my little party as we withdrew from this ceremo- 
 nious interview. Thinking that I was a Milordos, I 
 suppose, he sent from his own house a handsome dinner 
 in the Turkish style. On a large round tray of copper, 
 tinned, was a tureen of soup, a dish of rice, and one of 
 olives, with a supply of bread and some sweets. This 
 Turkish title of Milordos is given to persons of all na- 
 tions who travel without any visible motive. Who is he, 
 a messenger of government or a merchant ? The Turks 
 can conceive no other motives for travelling ; and if the
 
 PERGAMUS TO ASSOS. 45 
 
 stranger disowns both of these, he must be Milordos. 
 To such a one particular attention is paid, and in the 
 khan, where a small sum is demanded for the use of the 
 room, no charge is made to Milordos, who is supposed to 
 be rolling in riches ; the master of the khan knowing 
 that he shall thus obtain as a bounty double what he 
 could demand. After food and whatever else I could 
 need had been offered by the Aga, and accepted for 
 me, I heard Demetrius still asking for something, using 
 the word " Adam," or " Adahm." On inquiring of him 
 what he meant, he explained that he wanted ' a man' 
 to assist him. My servant, who spoke fluently seven 
 modern languages, said that this word was very si- 
 milar in all the Eastern nations. The name " Adam " 
 in our Scriptures is therefore the untranslated word 
 " man." 
 
 March 2nd. Our road lay by the sea-shore almost 
 all the day. In descending from our lofty village, we 
 saw traces in the mud of a number of wild-boars, and 
 their ploughing for the roots of lilies and other bulbs. 
 We shot a lark and a thrush, which did not differ from 
 the British. Several eagles' nests were in the high cliff 
 which formed the bold but beautiful coast. Between 
 this and the sea lay a valley half a mile in breadth, 
 thickly planted with olives, skirting the sea almost all 
 the way. The hills are clothed with evergreens to their 
 tops, and therefore vary little with the seasons ; the 
 underwood which is the most common here, and in all 
 the country we have passed through, and which till
 
 46 MYSIA. 
 
 now I scarcely recognised, is a species of the box. The 
 beach of the Mediterranean has one peculiarity, which 
 is seen here, as on all its shores that I have visited, 
 namely the flatness of the stones or shingle, many 
 being as thin as penny-pieces, and none rounded, as 
 is commonly the case in our seas. This is occasioned 
 by the very gradual and gentle gliding in and out of the 
 water, by which the stones are rubbed together without 
 being rolled over. The tide is not perceptible here ; I 
 have not in any part of the Mediterranean observed it 
 rise more than eighteen inches, and in many places it is 
 not felt at all. The wind is almost the only power that 
 influences it, and in land-locked parts of course this is 
 considerable. 
 
 This grinding of the stones destroys the shells, which 
 in this comparatively still water are not so often washed 
 up as in the more open seas. The only shells I saw 
 were those of the sepia, or cuttle-fish, whose pithy cargo 
 rides like a life-boat on the wave, and is left high upon 
 the beach. The stones are of course of the same sub- 
 stance as the cliffs, namely of limestone, of conglome- 
 rate, of many kinds of igneous rocks, some quite green, 
 but generally of a grey colour, and of a species of gra- 
 nite, used for all the buildings in the. district. 
 
 At about six miles' distance from Beahrahm, the an- 
 cient Assus or Assos, we left the sea-side and ascended 
 through wild rocky scenery, rich in useless vegetation. 
 The approach to the ancient town is very imposing : 
 we passed a small lake, and then entered a little wood
 
 ASSOS. 47 
 
 of shrubs, which I found thickly interspersed with the 
 stones and lids of sarcophagi. As we drew near to the 
 town, its surrounding wall of beautiful Greek work- 
 manship crossed our path, and again another inclosing 
 the Acropolis. They are very perfect, and in many 
 places stand thirty feet high ; each stone being beau- 
 tifully cut, and laid without cement. The rocks which 
 supplied the materials of the buildings, as well as the 
 foundation of much of the town, rise sixty or eighty 
 feet in abrupt cliffs, each of which has had its crown 
 of temples. The village now on the spot consists but 
 of a few sheds, one of which is appropriated to ray 
 use. 
 
 After depositing the baggage, I took the most intel- 
 ligent Turk in the place as cicerone, and went up to 
 the ruins on the Acropolis, from which I beheld all the 
 country round, the beautiful island of Mytilene on one 
 side, and the river winding through a rich meadow on 
 the other, rising at Mount Ida, and flowing to the 
 western coast, backed by a series of wooded hills. 
 Immediately around me were the ruins, extending for 
 miles, undisturbed by any living creature except the 
 goats and kids. On every side lay columns, triglyphs, 
 and friezes, of beautiful sculpture, every object speak- 
 ing of the grandeur of this ancient city. In one place 
 I saw thirty Doric capitals placed up in a line for a 
 fence. I descended towards the sea, and found the 
 whole front of the hill a wilderness of ruined temples, 
 baths, and theatres, all of the best workmanship, but
 
 48 MYSIA. 
 
 all of the same grey stone as the neighbouring rock. 
 The annexed plate will show one of the friezes, the sub- 
 ject of which I cannot understand or describe ; others 
 represented bulls fighting, sphinxes crouching, and a 
 variety of animals, well executed, although upon a 
 coarse material. The same plate exhibits tombs, upon 
 one of which is the following inscription : 
 
 ANfOEPKAAY 
 MAKEAONOE^ 
 
 + AOYKIoNOYHPEOP 
 
 DEPIOIKAIAI 
 
 ATAIEKNTOIE 
 APXEIOIEAHO 
 KEITAI 
 
 The seats of the theatre remain, although, like all 
 the parts of the building, displaced as if by an earth- 
 quake. The circumstance that the material has not 
 intrinsic value as marble, has preserved these remains 
 from the depredations committed on other towns near 
 the coast ; and from their appearance I imagine that the 
 whole of the materials are scattered around, and unin- 
 jured but by age. Some immense cisterns still con- 
 tain water. All the buildings were of the solid Greek 
 style, and the friezes much ornamented. On many of 
 the stones are deeply cut Greek inscriptions, with let- 
 ters nine inches in height. I copied some, but others 
 were too heavy to be easily moved.
 
 r t 
 
 ' \ 
 
 ' 
 
 
 ;. 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 .. 
 
 BE 
 
 
 
 82 
 
 H 
 
 ^ 
 N 
 
 ! 
 ^ 
 
 J trj 
 
 % 
 
 V S 
 B3 
 
 . 
 
 s 
 
 . 
 
 . 
 
 A \ 
 
 PH 
 
 
 
 b 


 
 ASSOS. 49 
 
 The following are upon four scattered portions of the 
 frieze of a temple, all of the same depth and pattern. 
 
 Ol EPEYZTOYZEBAZTOY0 
 
 EOYKAIZAPOZOAEAY 
 
 NAZIAPXOZoKOINTOZAO 
 
 OZKAIHATPIOZBAZIAEY 
 
 The three next have belonged to a different temple. 
 OYOMONftOYKAITYM 
 ZJfKAl IEYZTOYAIOZT 
 AIZAPIZEBAZTOIKAITOIA 
 
 The seven following are inferior in execution. 
 
 YAN0YH 
 
 YKA 
 
 OAHIO 
 
 UNOCTHCriOA 
 
 TA06ICTC 
 
 I also copied a fragment of an inscription upon a stone 
 which has been over a doorway. 
 
 EKTHXfl POZOAOYTflN AEP 
 HNTHZnOAEftZKAEOZTPA' 
 
 TEAAIKHNTOZCriE' 
 
 E
 
 50 
 
 MYSIA. 
 
 The only building which appeared of other architec- 
 ture than ancient Greek, was constructed of the mate- 
 rials of the surrounding ruins, without much taste ; it 
 had an arched roof and round-topped windows. From 
 the wall I copied a Greek inscription ; the date must 
 have been about the time of the early Christians. This 
 town St. Paul visited. 
 
 + EHIMEAIAE 
 EAAAAIOY 
 nPEIBEFlO 
 AITEYOI1 
 
 KTOYYreiOYAYIOYAOYK ANOY 
 
 I passed another beautiful wall in a very perfect state, 
 exhibiting gateways of the earliest dates, as well as those 
 of the later Greek.
 
 ASSOS. 
 
 51 
 
 E2
 
 52 MYSIA. 
 
 I then entered the Via Sacra, or Street of Tombs, ex- 
 tending for miles. Some of the tombs still stand in their 
 original beautiful forms, but most have been opened, 
 and the lids are lying near the walls they covered, curio- 
 sity or avarice having been satisfied by displacing them. 
 Occasionally in the line of tombs are circular seats, as 
 at Pompeii ; but these ruins are on a considerably larger 
 scale than those of the Roman city, and many of the 
 remains are equally perfect. Several are highly orna- 
 mented, and have inscriptions ; others are as large as 
 temples, being twenty or thirty feet square : the usual 
 length of the sarcophagus* is from ten to twelve feet. 
 
 My guide called every ruin an " old castle;" and 
 even with these tombs open before him, he said that 
 he was ignorant they were such, till an Englishman 
 who was here six years ago informed him. He sup- 
 posed the chambers, or large sarcophagi, were for the 
 angel or spirit to wait in. The Turk's grave has a 
 stone at the head and foot, with a turban or rag upon 
 it, and is planted with cypress-trees. In returning to 
 the town I found a wall of the very early and singular 
 style called Cyclopean, considered to be older than the 
 common architecture of the Greeks. It is here clearly 
 proved to be so by the Greeks having repaired this wall, 
 
 * The Anglicised word sarcophagus is a Roman one, of not very 
 early date. The Greek term on all tombs is Soros. Pliny says that a 
 peculiar stone, found in the territory of Assos, has the property of 
 wasting the bodies entombed in it ; hence the term sarcophagus, meaning 
 ' flesh- eating.'
 
 ASSOS. 
 
 53 
 
 and built over it with the beautifully squared stones of 
 their later style. 
 
 This town is perfectly open to the antiquarian, and 
 seems preserved for his examination, appearing to have 
 been unoccupied since its destruction, and inscriptions 
 being exposed on innumerable stones. Many tombs 
 of a Greek date remain unopened. There appears no 
 trace of the Romans, nor, except in the instances I 
 have noticed, of the Christians. The material of which 
 the town was built not being fine, the sculpture is not 
 of much value, but the hardness of the stone has com- 
 bined with its want of intrinsic worth to preserve the 
 inscriptions. 
 
 The Turks have no traditions of the country, and are 
 more ignorant than can be conceived, being not only 
 unlearned, but resolved not to learn. They call all 
 buildings which they have not themselves constructed, 
 whether bridge, bath or aqueduct, temple, theatre or
 
 54 MYSIA. 
 
 tomb, all Esky kalli, " old castle." The uses of the 
 two latter buildings are unknown to the Musselmans, 
 and they can scarcely comprehend even visible objects. 
 When curiosity has led them to examine my baggage, 
 or the spring-lock of my carpet-bag, they have, after I 
 have given a simple explanation, turned away saying, 
 " I cannot understand." At Smyrna, the Governor 
 and the Judge both made a tour of the Consul's dining- 
 room, fingering everything on the sideboard, and asking 
 questions like children. 
 
 The horses in Asia Minor are shod with plates of thin 
 iron, thus, 
 
 The nails project considerably, and a small square hole 
 is left in the centre to admit air and moisture, but not 
 large enough to catch a stone. The wear is almost 
 wholly upon the nails, and the plate is little thicker 
 than tin. I do not remember to have seen any specimen 
 of ancient Greek sculpture with shoes on the horses. 
 
 The houses of the villages in Turkey seem very much 
 alike. I have been into many, and will describe the 
 one appointed for me last night at Beahrahm. On the 
 outside it looked like a square box, and the inside 
 measured from twelve to fourteen feet : it was built 
 of stones, of all shapes, put together with mud. The
 
 ASSOS. 55 
 
 roof was flat and covered with earth ; a small roller, 
 generally a piece of a column, lying on the top to make 
 this compact, in order to keep out the wet. There was 
 no window, and consequently light was admitted only 
 by the door, which had no lock or fastening, except a 
 piece of wood suspended over the top withinside, and 
 falling down when the door shut, whilst on the outside 
 hung a peg, with which this inside fastening might be 
 pushed up on entering. The walls and floors were of 
 mud, mixed with short pieces of straw ; the roof was a 
 tree laid across and boards placed transversely; the in- 
 terior was black with the smoke from a large open fire- 
 place, and on entering, the house appeared quite dark. 
 The lamps here are of tin or earthenware, and of the 
 beautiful forms used by the Greeks and Romans. 
 
 When the traveller arrives, the owner of the house, 
 or servant appointed by the authorities, sweeps out the 
 room and puts down a mat, the only article of furniture 
 provided. My servant presses into the walls three or
 
 56 MYSIA. 
 
 four nails, on which to hang his gun, whip, our caps, and 
 my hood ; and then places the hammock and mattress 
 upon the carpet, whilst the canteen-box serves for table, 
 spread with food, papers, sketch-book, or whatever I may 
 desire. Any one who were to see the travellers' room 
 thus occupied, would acknowledge it to be extremely 
 enjoyable. Hitherto I have retained my English habits, 
 am never required to smoke, and have tasted Turkish 
 coffee but once since I entered Asia : that specimen was 
 not at all to my liking, which will be readily believed 
 when I describe the process of making it. Each cup is 
 made separately, the little saucepan or ladle in which it is 
 prepared being about an inch wide and two deep ; this is 
 more than half filled with coffee, finely pounded with a 
 pestle and mortar, and then filled up with water : after 
 being placed for a few seconds on the fire, the contents 
 are poured or rather shaken out, (being much thicker 
 than chocolate,) without the addition of cream or sugar, 
 into a china cup, of the size and shape of half an egg- 
 shell, which is inclosed in one of ornamented metal of the 
 same form, for convenience of holding in the hand, 
 
 " Gold cups of filigree, made to secure 
 
 The hand from burning, underneath them placed." 
 
 March 3rd. I leftBeahrahm at half-past eight o'clock 
 this morning, and travelled until five in the evening, a 
 distance of about thirty miles. The first part of the 
 road lay over barren hills, and it was only in the valleys 
 and ravines that the rich evergreens and the pink bios-
 
 TROAS. 57 
 
 som of the almond, with hundreds of Angora goats 
 browsing upon them, reminded me in what country I 
 was rambling. On descending I came to lower hills, 
 covered with a most beautiful species of oak, which 
 exceeds our own in size ; the acorn, or rather its cup, 
 is exported in large quantities to Europe for dye : the 
 planes also were enormous. I am much struck with 
 the beauty of the trees in this country. 
 
 As we approached Doosler, about sixteen miles on our 
 way, a range of hills lay before us clothed with little ve- 
 getation, and the valley below seemed barren, the greater 
 part of it looking like fields covered by a flood; but as 
 we approached I found that these expanses of waters 
 were salt-pans. The face or cliff of these barren hills 
 (barren from the nature of their soil,) was singularly 
 beautiful, and strongly resembled Alum Bay in the Isle 
 of Wight, the strata being considerably inclined, and 
 delicately coloured in ribbons of red, grey, white, and 
 green, of every shade, all softened by a pearly film of 
 transparent salt, which had filtered over the face of the 
 cliff; on closer examination I found that the whole of 
 these colours were caused by a soft, fine, adhering sand, 
 like fullers'-earth to the touch. The hills now became Jess 
 lofty, and were entirely clothed with oak : the collecting 
 of the large acorn and shells and the gall-nut (the forma- 
 tion of an insect disease) for dye employs the people for 
 great part of the year ; indeed this labour and attending 
 the goats seem their sole occupation. 
 
 The composition of these hills is limestone, but as
 
 58 MYSIA. 
 
 we approached Alexandria Troas they became a mass of 
 shells, with scarcely any combining earth ; one of them, 
 about two miles east of the ancient city, has many hot 
 springs, strongly chalybeate, but my thermometer only 
 indicated a temperature of 140, to which the mercury 
 rose quickly ; I do not think it would in any of them 
 have far exceeded that height, as many were only 135 
 and 137, varying according to the nature of the aper- 
 tures whence the water gushed. The whole of the hills 
 that I have mentioned are surrounded on the south-east 
 and north-east by a chain of bare craggy mountains, of 
 the grey granite of which all the columns of the ancient 
 city of Troas were formed. The buildings of the town 
 were almost wholly of the stone containing, or rather con- 
 sisting of masses of shells ; some few were of limestone. 
 The site of the ancient city being now covered by a 
 forest of oak-trees, it is impossible to see its ruins col- 
 lectively ; but for many miles the ground is rendered use- 
 less for agriculture by the multitude of broken stones 
 and marbles and arches, which lie under the surface 
 in every direction. I had fancied that the difficulty 
 of tracing the foundation of Troy had been from the 
 scarcity of remains, but I judge from this place that it 
 may have been, on the contrary, from the confused num- 
 bers which meet the eye on every side. The ancient 
 port is very interesting, and has been highly orna- 
 mented ; hundreds of columns, on a somewhat small 
 scale, lie scattered in all directions, and bristle among 
 the waves to a considerable distance out at sea. A wall
 
 ALEXANDRIA TROAS. 59 
 
 or pier also stands out in the sea, under water, causing 
 breakers, which show its situation. The harbour is now 
 shrunk to two small salt-water lakes. The island of 
 Tenedos is exactly opposite, and in the distance toward 
 the north-west is seen the island of Imbros. One im- 
 mense broken granite column lies in the harbour ; but 
 I could find no trace of more, or of any corresponding 
 parts of a temple or building. 
 
 The most striking ruins are about a mile from the 
 sea, probably near the centre of the city ; they are on 
 an exceedingly grand scale, and contain some very fine 
 arches of a building which must have been contained 
 within, or have formed, a square. In one of its small 
 arched recesses we found a man, who had long resided 
 in this spot ; he offered us milk, and was extremely 
 communicative about himself, but knew nothing of the 
 place he lived in ; he told me that he had been a hun- 
 dred years old for two or three years, and showed me 
 some new teeth just appearing through his gums : my 
 servant Demetrius says that he once saw a man aged a 
 hundred and twenty with the same peculiarity. This 
 man was a Greek, and from Roumelia ; his beard was 
 only partially grey, and he did not appear so old as 
 other men whom I have seen, even in the course of 
 today. The people of this mountainous district are 
 generally extremely dark, almost of the complexion of 
 mulattos. 
 
 The ground in every direction within the walls was 
 strewn with carvings, mouldings and pedestals, in marble,
 
 60 MYSIA. 
 
 some of which had inscriptions, generally in the Greek 
 language ; I copied the following Latin one however 
 from a handsome pedestal*. 
 
 DIVIAVOCOAIRII 
 ETCOUVIPHHIPPENN 
 LORVNDEMETPRINCIPIEN 
 COLMPABIANAETRIEM 
 MLIICOlbOOqfVOLVAIAR 
 TRIBMlLlTLEGXinCIM 
 PRAEFLTOJOVITA1AII 
 SCVBVLORVM 
 
 VIC 
 
 Near the large building above mentioned is a base- 
 ment story, consisting of a rectangular platform of im- 
 mense stones, supported by strong arches ; upon this 
 raised site, which affords a splendid view over the whole 
 city and the sea beyond, has evidently stood a temple. 
 Near this is another foundation of the same kind, but 
 semicircular, on the plan of the Temple of Venus in 
 Rome, but smaller. In several other buildings, appa- 
 rently baths or tombs, the stones are placed on their 
 
 * Translation. 
 
 " The colony of Apri founded by Claudius, and the colony of Phi- 
 lippi founded by Julius, [erect this statue to *** *** priest] of the 
 divine Augustus, and their prince ; also the colony of Parium, founded 
 by Julius, and the tribunes of the soldiers of the 32nd cohort of volun- 
 teers ; the tribunes of the soldiers of the 1 3th double legion ; the com- 
 manders of the horse of the first wing of the Scubuli."
 
 ALEXANDRIA TROAS. 61 
 
 angles, so as to form a kind of mosaic; I have often seen 
 this style in Roman buildings : the roofs are all arched. 
 
 I am now at Alexandria Troas, called by the Turks 
 Esky Stambool. The present village consists of eight 
 or ten houses, similar to those described above : only 
 two are occupied, one by a singular character, our host, 
 who calls himself Consul, and talks of having been at 
 the battle of the Nile, the other by a woman and her 
 son ; no other inhabitants are found within six miles, 
 these being the only people who have not been driven 
 away by the extortion of the Turkish agents. 
 
 Passing the massy foundations of the walls of the 
 city, which at present stand but a few feet above the 
 ground, we travelled eastwards for two or three miles, 
 to a hill containing hot-springs. This hill looked like 
 a honeycomb, from the number of arched buildings on 
 its sides for baths and fountains ; one or two are still 
 used as baths by the Turks. I observed a female statue, 
 of about seven feet in height, and without a head ; it 
 was of the finest description of white marble, but had 
 been injured by exposure to the weather; it now lies 
 sunk in the ground, and serves as a seat at the door of 
 the bath. Riding towards the north-east for a mile and 
 a half, we followed an ancient paved road from the city, 
 and by the wayside found an immense granite column, 
 unbroken, lying in the bushes.
 
 62 MYSIA. 
 
 I took its dimensions, which were as follow : thirty- 
 eight feet six inches in length ; the diameter of the top 
 four feet six inches, with a cornice fifteen inches in depth ; 
 diameter of the base five feet six inches, with a moulding 
 twelve inches broad. It was in excellent preservation; 
 but I sought in vain for its pedestal, and wondered that 
 its fall should not have broken it. In two hours we 
 reached Gaicle, and thence walked to a gorge near one 
 of the peaks of the granite range of hills, about a mile 
 off, to see the Seven Columns. I there found in the 
 quarry, with all their chips about them, and their parent 
 rock within a few feet distance, seven finished columns, 
 in form and measurement precisely like the one which 
 I had seen on my way, and also like the column I had 
 noticed lying on the beach at Troy, thus making nine 
 in all ; they were, no doubt, about to be used in, or 
 shipped from, the city, which was visible from this 
 quarry, and distant in a straight line not above five or 
 six miles : this at once explained the facts that there 
 was neither pedestal for, nor fracture in, the one by the 
 wayside, and no other remains in the city similar to the 
 column lying in the port. A long groove was cut on 
 the solid face of the rock in the quarry, marking out 
 the first stage towards hewing out another similar co- 
 lumn*. 
 
 * Dr. E. D. Clarke, in his Travels, (vol. iii. chap. vi. page 188,) says: 
 " A short distance from the road, concealed among trees, lay the largest 
 granite pillar in the world, excepting the famous column of Alexandria 
 in Egypt, which it much resembles. It is of the same substance, and 
 it has the same form ; its astonishing length, as a mere shaft, without
 
 ALEXANDRIA TROAS. 63 
 
 On two adjoining summits of this range of moun- 
 tains are the ruins of the towns of Criscool and Criser : 
 I was told that the walls only of the latter remained, 
 and that they were an hour and a half long. Riding 
 between two of these hills we passed a woody summit, 
 and had before us a splendid and extensive view of al- 
 most the whole of the Troas, Mount Ida capped with 
 snow, with the amphitheatre of mountains which range 
 with it, encircling the valley of the Mendere, or ancient 
 Scamander. In an hour and a half we reached Enae, a 
 tolerably large town, situated on the two sides of a river. 
 I find all the maps that I have with me so incorrect, that 
 tomorrow I shall have to make an excursion of six hours 
 to a town which is marked on the maps two hours in a 
 contrary direction. 
 
 March 4th. It is Sunday ; time glides away most 
 rapidly on the tide of pleasure. I am generally on 
 horseback eight hours a day, up at half-past six o'clock, 
 and at night write or draw till ten. 
 
 base or capital, of one entire stone, equalled thirty- seven feet eight 
 inches ; and it measured five feet three inches in diameter at the base, 
 and four feet five inches at the summit. It may seem to throw some 
 light upon the origin of the Egyptian pillar. Its situation is upon a 
 hill above Alexandria Troas. A paved road led from the city to the 
 place where it either stood, or was to have been erected. We have 
 therefore the instance of two cities, both built by generals of Alexander 
 the Great, in consequence of his order, and each city having a pillar of 
 this kind upon an eminence, outside of its walls." 
 
 It would seem that Dr. Clarke had not observed the other columns 
 noticed in my Journal.
 
 64 MYSIA. 
 
 Having again descended into a valley, I find the 
 buffalo, which I have not seen for the last seven days. 
 Access to mud or water, in which they remain during 
 the heat of the day in the summer season, with their 
 heads only above the surface, is essential to their healthy 
 existence ; the skin, which much resembles in appear- 
 ance that of the elephant, becomes otherwise so dis- 
 eased that the animal pines away: their Turkish name 
 is Sodsiger, meaning ' water-ox.' 
 
 The women here are far more shy than in the large 
 towns ; they never leave even an eye exposed, and ge- 
 nerally retreat into some shelter when met by a man ; 
 and if this be in the road, they turn their faces to a 
 bush until he has passed. Sometimes, while standing at 
 the top of my house, I have, unseen, observed fair faces ; 
 but they were all of a dumpling form, which I cannot 
 admire, while the Greek countenance is constantly be- 
 fore me ; their hands are always clean, but generally 
 concealed. I have sometimes fancied their finger-ends 
 bleeding, the henna with which they are dyed making 
 them red, or rather of the colour of burnt sienna. As 
 I was passing along the street, a woman hastily called 
 out to a child of six years old, " The Ghiaour coming!" 
 and it was snatched within the door, which she shut. 
 This term, my servant tells me, cannot be literally trans- 
 lated ; it means more than infidel, for which the Turkish 
 word is Rayah ; Ghiaour was interpreted to me to mean 
 a man without a soul, without a God : this word is used 
 as a bugbear to children.
 
 TROAS. 65 
 
 In all Turkish towns are found a vast number of 
 skeletons of the domestic animals, affording ample op- 
 portunity for studying the anatomy of the camel, cow, 
 horse, ass, and ox ; the dogs begin, and the sun and 
 wind complete, the bleaching of the skeleton. The head 
 of the ox alone escapes this fate ; in cultivated districts 
 it is placed on a stick, or hung on a tree, as a scare- 
 crow. This custom prevails in Greece as well as here : 
 the heads are always beautifully white, and retain the 
 horns, which are in this part of the world exceedingly 
 short and thick. 
 
 The skull, with its horns, has thus been constantly 
 presented to the eye of the Greek artist blanched white 
 as marble, and hence the introduction of precisely this 
 figure in the friezes of their architecture ; and perhaps 
 the vine or clematis wreathing about the horns may 
 have suggested the frequent accompaniment of this or- 
 nament. It appears to me the more evident that this 
 is the real origin, from its being the skeleton of the 
 head that is depicted. Had the figure been in honour 
 of, or connected with the worship of, the Bull, why not 
 have exhibited the living head, which is rarely given ?
 
 66 MYSIA. 
 
 From Enae I made an excursion to the site of Old 
 Troy, and back, a distance of about fifteen miles. Ad- 
 joining Ende is a mound, which, if artificial, is a co- 
 lossal work. I believe it is supposed to be a tumulus, 
 and is called Enea's tomb, connecting it with the present 
 name of this place. The mound or tomb, whichever it 
 may be, is now, together with the fields at its base, be- 
 come a Turkish burial-ground, covered with stones and 
 planted with the cypress. A mile below the town, the 
 stream on which it stands flows into the Mdndere, which 
 is here a large river, equal in size to the Wye, and 
 much resembling it in scenery; it carries down much 
 soil, and occasionally lays waste a tract of country three 
 times its own width. About a mile further on our 
 route, which lay by the river, is a wooden bridge ; the 
 only other crossing at this season is by a bridge near the 
 mouth of the river on the plain of Troy, distant eighteen 
 miles from Old and New Troy ; and in consequence, 
 although these two places, the most interesting in this 
 part of the country, are not far distant from each other, 
 standing on opposite sides of the river, the traveller has 
 to make a day's journey down the western side to Old 
 Troy, and return, and then along the eastern bank to 
 New Troy, and afterwards proceed to the Dardanelles. 
 I believe at some seasons there are places in the river 
 fordable, but there are none now. The ride is ex- 
 tremely picturesque : the river, with the road, generally 
 occupies the whole of the valley, which is bounded by 
 ranges of craggy hills richly wooded ; where any inlet or
 
 TROAS. 
 
 67 
 
 hollow occurs in them, the soil is excellent and highly 
 cultivated, exhibiting beautiful green meadows and 
 corn-fields. Large flocks of goats, with their bells and 
 the herdsman's pipe, give life to the scene, and climbing 
 to the most craggy parts add to the picturesque effect. 
 
 The pipe used by the shepherds in Asia Minor is a simi- 
 lar instrument to those found in the tombs in Athens, 
 
 specimens of which are in the British Museum ; it is 
 open at both ends, and is played by the shepherds in 
 the manner represented on the Greek vases, by blowing 
 sideways into it. This instrument and the lyre are 
 
 F2
 
 08 MYSIA. 
 
 sufficient evidence that the ancient Greeks, who attained 
 a perfection in architecture and sculpture never equalled 
 by any other age, cannot have understood the science of 
 music. 
 
 About two miles before we arrived at Boonobassy, 
 which word means ' spring-head,' we left the river and 
 passed over a range of hills, commanding a splendid 
 map-view of the whole of the country where the great- 
 est nations once contended in almost endless strife : 
 and now nations as great, then not in being, contest the 
 point, where lived these people whose acts for ages gave 
 even a date to the world. The continents of Europe and 
 Asia, as well as the islands of Imbros and Tenedos, were 
 included in the view, the centre of which was marked 
 by the winding course of the Scamander. 
 
 In the village of Boona'bassy a few relics of past days 
 have been worked up in the mud of the hovels, but there 
 are none to indicate the site of even a small town. This 
 village, which is by Europeans called Old Troy, stands 
 at the end of a chain terminating in two mountains, 
 between which the river descends into the plains, 
 that extend about fifteen miles to the sea. Upon one 
 of these we rode in search of some trace of the city, 
 of which the champions of this locality for Old Troy 
 boast. The natives call this hill Bollhu-tepe, and some 
 the Heights of Boona'bassy. We saw on the stony top 
 of a hill (certainly very small for the site of a city) two 
 piles of loose stones; I think it very questionable whether 
 put together by nature or art ; and if by art, a doubt may
 
 TROAS. 69 
 
 arise as to the purpose, for I have often seen in moun- 
 tain districts piles as large heaped up by the villagers as 
 a testimony of respect, upon the spot where some too 
 adventurous brother met with an untimely end. I could 
 not find on this or the neighbouring heights a single 
 squared stone, or any indication of art of any age ; and 
 this is the spot fixed upon as ancient Troy. The country 
 was beautiful, and the ride amply repaid me, affording 
 me new information upon the geography of this district. 
 I saw many partridges, and two eagles ; one sat boldly 
 on a tree under which we passed, looking down con- 
 temptuously upon me, and I observed his keen eye 
 watching me continually ; it was not one of the largest 
 sort, but of the size of a small turkey. 
 
 The hills were generally of schist (I think geologists 
 call it), somewhat micaceous and flaky, in colour re- 
 sembling serpentine, being green when wet, and of a 
 lighter colour when weather-worn ; I judged the distant 
 rocks, from their fractures, to be limestone : they were 
 generally covered with vegetation. In some I observed 
 fine veins of good white marble, and others were of 
 mountain limestone. I first saw in the town of Enae, 
 in the adjoining burial-ground, and afterwards much 
 scattered over the roads, volcanic stones, which in the 
 former places appeared as fine hexagonal basaltic co- 
 lumns. I am told (but place little reliance on the report 
 of the people here) that they come from the distant 
 chain of Mount Ida, and from near the quarry that we 
 visited to see the granite columns. It is probable they
 
 70 MYSIA. 
 
 must be found much nearer, for the people would not 
 take the trouble to carry them so far. 
 
 I have today had an opportunity of examining some 
 of the agricultural implements of the country ; one is 
 used for the joint purpose of threshing and of cutting 
 the straw. It is very primitive and curious, consisting 
 of a thick plank of timber flat on the ground, with an- 
 other smaller one inclining upwards, to which the ani- 
 mal is attached, for the purpose of dragging it over the 
 corn, which is spread out on the hard rocky ground; the 
 flat underside is stuck full of flints or hard cutting stones, 
 arranged in the form of the palate or rough tongue of 
 
 the cow. In the one which I examined I found the 
 teeth all made of beautiful agates, and on inquiry hear 
 that the stones are found, chipped, and set near Beira- 
 mitch, in the mountains of the Idaean chain, a few miles 
 from this place. The roller is the trunk of a tree, often 
 weighted by the driver riding on it ; it is dragged over 
 the ground, but does not revolve. 
 
 The mode of winnowing is as primitive ; advantage
 
 TROAS. 
 
 71 
 
 is taken of a favourable wind, and the corn is thrown 
 into the air. The plough, each portion of which is still 
 called by the ancient Greek names, is very simple, and 
 seems suited only to the light soil which prevails here. 
 
 TTf 
 
 aporpov, the Plough, pvpos, the Pole, vvvis, the Share. 
 the Handle, or Plough-tail. /neraSct, the Yokes. Karpivos, the Goad, 
 or instrument for driving. 
 
 It is held by one hand only. The shape of the share 
 varies, and the plough is used frequently without any. 
 It is drawn by two oxen, yoked from the pole, and 
 guided by a long reed or thin stick, which has a spud 
 or scraper at the end for cleaning the share. The oxen 
 are all small, of the size of our Scotch cattle, and either 
 black or grey. I have not seen a red cow, nor one with 
 long horns, in this country. The buffalos are much 
 used in agriculture. There are very few carts here, 
 as there are no roads : occasionally they are used to 
 transport the crops from field to field ; being sometimes
 
 72 MYSIA. 
 
 of wicker-work, and sometimes without bodies, like a 
 brewer's dray, with poles fixed at the sides to keep the 
 load together. The wheels are of solid blocks of wood, 
 or thick planks, generally three, held together by an 
 iron hoop or tire ; a loud creaking noise is made by the 
 
 friction of the galled axle. The harrow is a bunch 
 of thorns. I observe it is the custom first to sow the 
 land, then plough and brush, or harrow it. This is 
 slovenly work, but the roots and short stumps of the 
 maize of the last year are so much decayed that they 
 are ploughed in, and serve as manure for the land. 
 The spade and shovel, principally used in cutting for 
 
 irrigation, are above six feet long, and power is applied 
 to them by placing them under the arm. 
 
 March 6th. This morning I left Enae, traversing the 
 same road as on my excursion to Boonobassy ; and then 
 crossing the wooden bridge, the construction of which
 
 TROAS. 73 
 
 makes this a somewhat perilous route, I travelled for 
 about eight miles along the eastern side of the river, in 
 a direction parallel with the road of yesterday. The rocks 
 on this side rising more perpendicularly, less cultivation 
 is here practicable; these rocks appeared of the same 
 material as the opposite ones. The wild-boar leaves each 
 morning his traces on the fresh-rooted ground, and his 
 track in the mud on his way to the river. Wolves are 
 also very numerous here : this may account for the 
 number of dogs kept by the Turks, which bay at you 
 on approaching a hut or herd of cattle. The dogs 
 are generally of an uniform breed, much resembling the 
 wolf in form and colour, but frequently growing to a 
 great size, sometimes as large as the Newfoundland. 
 The ruff of hair round the neck, and the short ears, 
 make them handsome animals. 
 
 We now left the river, and passing a valley to the 
 eastward ascended some hills, and were soon on the 
 mountain opposite to the one on which we yesterday 
 sought the tumuli above Boonabassy. I came now on 
 the same search; but here also nature appeared undis- 
 turbed by art, scarcely a stone having been moved, ex- 
 cept by the heavy rains. There is a superstition among 
 the Turks that a great man was buried here, and their 
 name for the hill signifies a burial-place. The imaginary 
 stature of this ideal person is marked by a row of stones, 
 extending about sixteen feet. This hill and the neigh- 
 bouring one were interesting, not only from the view 
 which they command over all the classic plains to the
 
 74 MYSIA. 
 
 Hellespont, but also from the formation of the hills them- 
 selves. Of what are they composed ? I should say agate. 
 They contain also highly metalliferous fragments, some 
 of apparently almost pure iron-ore; in other parts are 
 the green symptoms of copper: every cavity seems filled 
 with crystals of quartz ; and in and over the red agate 
 stone was a mammaliferous pearly coating. I could 
 have selected beautiful cabinet specimens, but England 
 is too far off for me to carry home stones in most re- 
 spects similar to our Scotch pebbles : here the rock 
 itself seemed entirely composed of that material ; in 
 Scotland I have seen it only in rounded pebbles. 
 
 Descending into the plains below I observed what 
 appeared to be an isolated mound. At first I fancied 
 it was a real tumulus, but on approaching I found 
 that it was backed to the north by a long ridge of 
 natural hills, which led me to think that it owed its 
 origin to the ancient current of waters rather than the 
 work of man. I find however from my books that this 
 is asserted to be the tomb of Ilus. Proceeding north 
 we came to a village, or assemblage of a few huts, called 
 She'blac, the neighbourhood of which claims to be the 
 site of New Troy, Ilium Novum ; and here among 
 some oaks I saw an immense number of columns, tri- 
 glyphs, and the parts of many temples varying in style. 
 They are now in a Turkish burial-ground, but I scarcely 
 think they can have been brought there by the Turks, 
 being too heavy for them to transport. There were 
 besides many blocks of common stone, some squared,
 
 PLAINS OF TROY. 75 
 
 which would be useless in these grounds, and are evi- 
 dently the remains of buildings which had stood near 
 this spot ; I could not find however any foundations, 
 and no form is visible in the present disposition of the 
 columns. The general style of workmanship is not of 
 the early or finest age ; the remains of inscriptions are 
 in the Greek character, but probably of as late a date 
 as the Roman conquest. 
 
 At a village three hours' journey beyond, called Hallil 
 Elly, I also saw a great assemblage of similar relics, 
 scattered over half a mile of country, some with rich 
 carvings and inscriptions. The connexion of these with 
 the place was more evident, for I here traced the foun- 
 dations of several small temples. Both these sites are 
 slightly raised above the general level of the plains, and 
 consequently command an extensive view ; but they are 
 not at all similar to those usually selected for large 
 cities by the ancients, particularly by the Greeks. 
 
 The poetical idea of the plains of Troy, the arena of 
 Homer's battles, is frequently disturbed in passing the 
 flat, sandy, and marshy ground, by seeing its present in- 
 habitants, the buffalo, with all but its head immersed in 
 the swamps, the heron feeding in the shallow streams, 
 and the frogs, whose voices certainly vary more than 
 that of any other animal, sounding at different times 
 like crying children, barking dogs, pigeons, and crows ; 
 and when in great numbers, producing a harmony 
 almost as agreeable as the singing of birds. On the 
 banks or sandy places the helpless tortoise is crawling
 
 76 MYSIA. 
 
 sleepily along, and as we pass timidly draws in its 
 head. They are so numerous that I often turn my 
 horse out of the way to avoid them, although doubtless 
 their hard shell would sufficiently protect them from in- 
 jury. The dead ones lying about lose their outer shell, 
 and become perfectly white, of a limy bone, with the 
 horny scales scattered around. 
 
 Finding nothing of sufficient interest to detain me 
 longer on these plains, I determined to hasten on and 
 reach Channakalasy before evening. We therefore tra- 
 velled for the next twenty-five miles at the speed of the 
 Tartar (the couriers of the Turks) , which is seven or 
 eight miles an hour, passing over small limestone hills ; 
 and at about half the way we paused on the brow of a 
 range of them, forming the cliffs or Asiatic frontier of 
 the Dardanelles, at the village of Ghiaourcooe. The view 
 of the entrance of the strait was so beautiful, that, fa- 
 vouring my own and my horse's limbs, I sat down to 
 make a sketch. 
 
 Our Consul resides in this village, twelve miles from 
 Channakalasy. We met his dragoman on the way, who 
 begged that I would ask for the key of his house, and 
 use it as my own. The residence of the Consul is in 
 ruins, caused by the late fire. His dragoman took 
 my name, and the following morning the Consul, Mr. 
 Launder, came into the town to call upon me. He sat 
 with me several hours, and offered every attention. 
 His house has been twice destroyed by fire within a 
 year, and from the last conflagration he only escaped
 
 THE DARDANELLES. 77 
 
 with the clothes on his back, losing, among other pro- 
 perty, a valuable library. The Sultan's government will 
 not allow the house to be rebuilt with stone, the Turks 
 representing the injury that would be sustained by the 
 growers of timber and by the workmen if the houses 
 w r ere more durable. 
 
 One half of the town, the court end, was completely 
 destroyed last year, but is rapidly rising again, formed 
 entirely of wooden houses, which, while new and uni- 
 form, have a peculiar and somewhat pleasing effect, re- 
 sembling the Swiss villages. A number of tents, raised 
 upon the ruins of their houses, form the temporary shops 
 and caffes of the half-ruined merchants. This place, 
 which is of considerable extent, takes its Turkish name 
 Channakalasy (meaning 'Pot Castle') from the manufac- 
 tures of crockery carried on here. It is called by us the 
 Dardanelles, which here refers to the straits alone : in 
 the maps this town is marked as Sultana, a name 
 known only to the map-rnakers. 
 
 Each nation has here its resident consul, and the 
 strong castles on either shore make this the portal to 
 the Sultan's capital. Several other forts above assist in 
 completely commanding the entrance of these straits. 
 
 Having ridden with the same horses about fifty-two 
 miles, between seven in the morning and six at night, 
 I was ready to retire early to rest, but was so exces- 
 sively cold that I could not sleep. The weather had 
 suddenly changed, and it blew a hurricane from the 
 north-east, making the current of the Hellespont defy
 
 78 MYS1A. 
 
 the power of the steamboat which was to carry us for- 
 ward. Before daylight I heard a military band passing 
 under my window, playing very tolerably a French air. 
 It was the first day of the Kooban Byran, one of the 
 great feasts. The troops were going to mosque. On 
 their return I was much amused by seeing such a bur- 
 lesque upon soldiers as I should have condemned at a 
 theatre as over-acted ; the men were evidently quite 
 out of their element in breeches and coats, which would 
 have fitted persons twice their size, for they are all boys. 
 Many of them were blacks: they had no collars, stocks, 
 or shirts ; their ears, and almost their eyes, were en- 
 veloped in red caps, and they were walking and talking 
 in the most irregular manner. My appearance caused 
 great disorder in their ranks, as they all turned round 
 to look at an European ; and as some were holding their 
 muskets horizontally over their shoulders, some carry- 
 ing them perpendicularly, a sad confusion was the con- 
 sequence. The officers held their swords in one hand 
 before them, the other being generally in the breeches 
 pocket. I do not know whether the novelty of having 
 such an appendage to the costume, or the cold morning, 
 was the reason of this unmilitary posture, nor am I sure 
 whether the troops were intended to be in lines ; but as 
 the band was playing and the officers were at stated di- 
 stances, it is probable they were. Their guns were very 
 clean and in good order ; they were of French manufac- 
 ture : the band did credit to their teachers, who were 
 of the same nation.
 
 THE DARDANELLES. 79 
 
 The mosques were no sooner emptied, than the forts 
 on either side began their thundering, and I had an op- 
 portunity of witnessing the extent of their power. They 
 all fired immense balls of stone, generally formed of 
 rounded sections or pieces of broken columns, two feet 
 in diameter. I went to the top of the house to witness 
 the firing, which was very interesting. The guns were 
 a little diverted from the direct line across, lest each 
 should injure the opposite fort; and the shot marked 
 very curiously the course they took, dipping into the 
 sea six or seven times, playing duck-and-drake, and 
 driving up the water as if spouted from a whale ; all 
 this was seen before the report was heard, showing 
 remarkably the time occupied in conducting sound : 
 seven or eight balls were dancing in the sea at the same 
 time before any report was heard, producing an ex- 
 tremely singular effect. 
 
 The next scene of this religious ceremony (for the 
 firing the guns was one) I observed in walking to Aby- 
 dos ; numbers of people were killing sheep, and others 
 were carrying the bodies of their sacrifice to their homes, 
 which on this day are the scene of hospitality. Every 
 man who can afford it kills a sheep ; others receive parts 
 from their richer neighbour. I hoped to profit by the 
 butchery, but not a joint appeared at the bazaar, so that 
 I had again my delicate diet of chickens and broth, and 
 at night arrow-root. The Greeks keep Lent strictly, and 
 it is seldom that meat can be obtained during this season. 
 
 I never felt the wind more cutting or violent than in
 
 80 MYSIA. 
 
 ray walk of four miles north-east to Abydos. Of this 
 place so little trace remains that I passed over it, and 
 for a mile and a half beyond, and gave up the search as 
 vain. On my return I noticed broken pottery and small 
 stones of worked marble in the ploughed fields, at about 
 the place where the town probably stood. Thus directed 
 to the spot, and by seeing higher up on the opposite side 
 of the straits the promontory of Sestos, I traced the foun- 
 dation of the wall of a considerable building down to the 
 coast. Were it not for the interest of a twofold poetic 
 association, this spot would not have found its way into 
 a journal or sketch-book ; but, notwithstanding the strong 
 wind, I hastily made a memorial of it. 
 
 Passing up a ravine, and ascending the hill over- 
 hanging this formerly castellated promontory, I found 
 many remains, valueless except as leaving a trace of 
 former inhabitants. I afterwards heard from the Con- 
 sul, that a tomb was discovered a week before upon the 
 height ; but as the discoverer was a rich man, he dared 
 not make it publicly known, as he would be taxed to any 
 amount which the Aga chose to demand, on the excuse 
 of his having obtained a hidden treasure. The man 
 gave information of it to our Consul, who will be the 
 discoverer when a prudent time has elapsed : the ac- 
 count he gave was that his plough struck a stone, and 
 on raising it he found a tomb, containing a skeleton, 
 which, when he went an hour after to examine it more 
 minutely and privately, had crumbled to dust. His alarm 
 at beholding this was doubled by superstitious fear.
 
 THE DARDANELLES. 81 
 
 The Greek Consul here, Signer Nicholas Vitalis, a man 
 of great intelligence, has been fortunate in discovering 
 a tomb, containing, I believe, the only works in terra 
 cotta that have ever been found in this part of the 
 country. He has discovered three specimens, and pre- 
 sented me with one, of which I subjoin a sketch*; they 
 
 are of high antiquity, and of considerable interest from 
 the peculiar costume. The material is the clay now 
 used for making crockery, and recognised as such by 
 the particles of mica which it contains : this deposit is 
 
 * This appears to be a veiled goddess, with a polus. 
 
 G '
 
 82 MYSIA. 
 
 brought down from the mountains of micaceous schist 
 through which the rivers flow*. 
 
 I find it very difficult in travelling through this country 
 to write a journal, or pursue any occupation requiring 
 attention ; for on arriving and taking possession of my 
 room, the smoke is no sooner seen to rise from the 
 chimney than the apartment is half filled with Turks, 
 who, with the most friendly intention, bring their pipes 
 and sit down, saying everything that is kind and hospi- 
 table, and watching every motion of my lips and hands. 
 
 
 I can scarcely keep my countenance when I see them 
 
 staring with astonishment at my use of a knife and fork. 
 They watch every piece of food to my mouth ; but the 
 moment I look up, their curiosity yields to their natural 
 politeness, and they turn away. After dinner I begin 
 to write, and this they again watch with laughable in- 
 nocence of wonder : Demetrius is obliged to give them 
 an early hint that I am going to bed, or they would sit 
 all night. A few years ago they would not even look 
 at or speak to an infidel or a Ghiaour; whereas I now 
 receive the salutation of all the gazers assembled to see 
 me mount my horse, with its European saddle. The 
 bridle is generally put on wrong, with the curb-chain 
 over the nose, and the neck-strap buckled in front of 
 the head, and the putting this right excites much curi- 
 osity. The Italian Addio is known to many Turks as 
 
 * On my arrival in Greece I found that Signer Vitalis had presented 
 the other two specimens to King Otho, for the Museum in Athens, 
 together with some coins found also at Abydos.
 
 THE DARDANELLES. 83 
 
 an expression of courtesy, and it serves on all occa- 
 sions of arrival or departure, or to express obligation. 
 
 The hills along the coast of the Dardanelles are a 
 mass of shells and sea-side rubbish, bound together with 
 lime, forming a stone sufficiently hard for building pur- 
 poses ; part is of such modern formation that pieces 
 of brick were imbedded with the shells, which would 
 probably prove on examination to be all of the spe- 
 cies at present found in these seas. On the coast was 
 much sponge, but not ripe for use, the fleshy coat of 
 the animal still covering it. The small scallop-fish is 
 eaten as the oyster is with us, and is much esteemed : 
 the cockle is not exactly like ours, having a darker- 
 coloured and obliquely formed shell, but the taste is 
 the same : both are eaten raw. Here also are excellent 
 little oysters, but smaller than any we have in England. 
 The sepia is much eaten here, and also a brown shell- 
 fish, in form similar to a large snail, and larger than a 
 pigeon's egg. 
 
 o2
 
 84 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 French Steamboat Arrival at Constantinople Climate Description 
 of the City Bazaars Change of Costume by the Turks Habits 
 of the People Dancing Dervises Antiquities The Sultan His 
 Policy Situation of the City. 
 
 IN the evening of the 7th of March the steamboat from 
 Smyrna, a French vessel, appeared, twelve hours after 
 its usual time ; and, being unable to face the stream and 
 storm of wind and snow, cast anchor for the night. On 
 the morning of the 8th, at eight o'clock, I went on board. 
 The usual time required for the voyage to Constantinople 
 is from twelve to sixteen hours : our passage took forty- 
 eight ; and most miserable hours they were, for it blew 
 hard the whole time ; the mingled snow and spray made 
 it difficult even for the crew to remain at their posts. 
 I was the only passenger in the principal cabin, which 
 had every requisite of splendour and luxury, but no fire 
 or stove. I was in bed almost the whole time, but never 
 lost the numbness of cold in my feet. The captain and 
 mate took their scanty dinner with me. I cannot like
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 85 
 
 the middle classes of the French nation, particularly in 
 travelling and in rough weather; they have little idea of 
 cleanliness, never shaving or dressing, and often exhibit 
 all that is disgusting in the epicure added to the German 
 unmannerly mode of eating ; but perhaps my comfort- 
 less voyage has made me hypercritical. I will therefore 
 pass on to the pleasure of arriving on the morning of 
 Saturday, the 9th of March, at this place, the Eastern 
 capital, a name which in childhood was a frequent 
 lesson in my copy-book, and from which I now date 
 my letters, Constantinople, or, as it is called by the 
 Turks, Stambool. On landing I observed vast num- 
 bers of porpesses, which seemed to threaten to upset the 
 light boats or caifes which swarm on the water. The 
 Turks always squat at the bottom of these boats, which 
 are very like canoes, but to the European, who sits higher 
 or stands, they are a dangerous conveyance. 
 
 March 13th. I have now been four days in the city, 
 and each day the snow has continued to fall, and the 
 wind is still north-east. On my noticing the severity 
 of the weather, the people say, " Yes, we always have 
 this weather at this season ;" and, both from the state 
 of vegetation and the accounts given by residents here, 
 I am persuaded that we English are strangely mistaken 
 with regard to the climate of this country, as well as of 
 Italy, fancying from the great heat of the summer that 
 there is no cold season. I am told that the winters here 
 are extremely long and severe, and that the use of fur 
 is greater than in any part of northern Europe; every
 
 86 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 person, male or female, rich or poor, being clothed in 
 fur, varying from the richest sable to the most common 
 skins. The houses are certainly built for a warm season ; 
 but Dr. Millingen, a resident here for many years, with 
 whom I conversed about the climate, says very truly 
 that it is easier to obtain artificial heat than cold ; the 
 people can warm themselves in winter, but could not 
 cool an European-built house in summer. 
 
 The snow has not prevented my ramblings, but all 
 my associations of luxury and sunshine with the East, 
 which have hitherto accompanied minarets, are, like the 
 vegetation here, folded in the bud: in a warmer atmo- 
 sphere they may expand. I can only speak of the sub- 
 stantial features of the city, and must leave its gayer 
 colouring to poets, or those who may visit it during a 
 more genial season. 
 
 The streets of Constantinople are certainly better than 
 those of other eastern cities, but I know none in Europe 
 that I can mention to convey an idea sufficiently bad 
 even for the best of them. In some a carriage may be, 
 and occasionally is, dragged along, but the partial pave- 
 ment renders it unsafe. The conveyance for ladies is 
 drawn by a single horse or ox, led by a man, the body 
 swinging like a hammock ; yet I know not what danger 
 there can be, for there is not width to allow of the car- 
 riage being upset ; and as the ladies sit at the bottom, 
 they cannot be jolted from their seats. The wheels and 
 body are all carved and gilded, and hung with drapery 
 of gay colours ; but these carriages are not numerous ;
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 87 
 
 for besides the above objections to their use, all the 
 districts of the city Pera, Galatea, Constantinople, and 
 the Seraglio Point, or Golden Horn, being situated on 
 a series of hills, the greater number of the streets would 
 be impassable for such a conveyance. For all commer- 
 cial purposes connected with the shipping the water 
 must be crossed, therefore boats are used with more 
 advantage than carriages, and the fares are very low. 
 Horses stand in the streets for hire,, as hackney-coaches 
 with us. 
 
 The mosques are prodigious masses of building, piled 
 together without plan or reference to outward effect. 
 But the elegant minarets are redeeming features, and 
 render the general effect almost beautiful, especially 
 when backed by a clear horizon. The proportion which 
 the mosques bear in size to all other buildings is so 
 colossal, that this alone renders them imposing : in 
 fact there are no other public buildings, unless the 
 bazaars may be so called. These are delightful places 
 of amusement, through which you may walk perhaps for 
 miles, generally under cover of a kind of arched vault. 
 From the outside, or from any neighbouring hill, they 
 look like a series of ovens or dome-tops rising from flat 
 roofs. In these covered streets or bazaars camels and 
 asses have free passage ; and on either side are shops, 
 or shop-boards, with the vendors on their knees, or 
 leaping about like frogs over their various wares, which 
 are arranged in the manner most tempting to those fond 
 of gay colours and gaudy embroidery. The trades ge-
 
 88 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 nerally are in separate compartments, each having its 
 bazaar : the one for ancient arms, or rather armour of 
 all ages, is quite a museum ; but the articles generally 
 sold are clothing and ornaments of a costly kind, and 
 these are very dear. 
 
 The people in the East spare no expense in dress. 
 They wear a garment for a great length of time, but 
 it would ruin an active-bodied, weather-braving inha- 
 bitant of northern Europe to dress as they do here. 
 Their furs, shawls, arms, and embroidery are each a 
 little fortune, and not kept as holiday-clothes, but worn 
 daily. The price of a travelling-cap of lambskin from 
 Persia was eight pounds : a piece of material of cheap 
 imitation Persia shawl, for a dressing-gown, was seven 
 pounds ten shillings ; an embroidered tobacco-bag, four 
 pounds ; and yet the buyers of these things count their 
 paras (about four to a farthing) , and spend little except 
 in dress. 
 
 The bazaars for spices, scents, drugs, and dried fruits 
 have each their peculiar and often pleasing perfume. 
 That for shoes forms one of the gayest marts ; not a 
 pair of black ones is to be sold. I see " Day and Mar- 
 tin" advertised, but this must be for the Frank popu- 
 lation alone, who do not frequent the Turkish bazaar 
 for the purchase of shoes. 
 
 The lambskins of which I spoke are generally from 
 Astracan, but are produced in most of the southern 
 countries. I have seen some of inferior quality in the 
 south of Italy ; the peculiarity of the most valued is that
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 89 
 
 the wool is of close, firm little curls, and the colour 
 glossy black : this is obtained by the following process. 
 A short time before the ewe lambs she is killed, and the 
 lamb extracted ; the skin never having been exposed to 
 the atmosphere, the wool retains the closeness of its 
 curls. Should the skin happen to be purely black the 
 prize is great, its value being about a guinea, while the 
 sheep and lamb alive would not be worth three shillings. 
 In Italy the lamb is dropped before it is sacrificed for its 
 skin, in consequence of which the value seldom exceeds 
 a few shillings ; this is done probably in order to pre- 
 serve the mother, whose life is there of more value than 
 in Asia Minor or Persia. 
 
 The change to European manners and costume is far 
 from becoming to these people, and the painter cannot 
 but regret it ; many years must elapse before the new 
 dress and habits will harmonize with their character. 
 The mere substitution of trousers for their loose dress 
 interferes seriously with their old habits ; they all turn 
 in their toes, in consequence of the Turkish manner of 
 sitting, and they walk wide and with a swing, from being 
 habituated to the full drapery ; this gait has become 
 natural to them, and in their European trousers they 
 walk in the same manner. They wear wide-topped, 
 loose boots, which push up their trousers : Wellington 
 boots would be still more inconvenient, as they must 
 slip them off six times a day for prayers. In this new 
 dress they cannot with comfort sit or kneel on the 
 ground, as is their custom; and they will thus be led to
 
 90 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 use chairs, and with chairs they will want tables. But 
 were these to be introduced, their houses would be too 
 low, for their heads would almost touch the ceiling. 
 Thus by a little innovation might their whole usages 
 be unhinged. 
 
 The change that has been introduced shows the 
 wonderful power of the Sultan over the people ; all has 
 apparently been done by example, and by the influence 
 of that universal power fashion. The Turk, proud of 
 his beard, comes up from the province a candidate for, 
 or to receive, the office of governor. The Sultan gives 
 him an audience, passes his hand over his own short- 
 trimmed beard ; the candidate takes the hint, and ap- 
 pears the next day shorn of his honoured locks. The 
 Sultan, who is always attired in a plain blue frock-coat, 
 asks of the aspirant for office if he admires it ; he of 
 course praises the costume worn by his patron ; where- 
 upon the Sultan suggests that he would look well in it, 
 as also in the red unturbaned fez. The following day 
 the officer again attends to receive or lose his appoint- 
 ment ; and to promote the progress of his suit, throws 
 off his costly and beautiful costume, and appears like 
 the Sultan in the dull unsightly frock. A regimental 
 cloak may sometimes be seen covering a fat body in- 
 closed in all the robes of the Turkish costume, the whole 
 bundle, including the fur-lined gown, being strapped 
 together round the waist. Some of the figures are lite- 
 rally as broad as long, and have a laughable effect on 
 horseback. The saddles for the upper classes are now
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE . 
 
 91 
 
 generally made of the European form ; but the people, 
 who cannot give up their accustomed love of finery for 
 plain leather, have them mostly of purple or crimson 
 velvet embroidered with silver or gold, the holsters 
 ornamented with beautiful patterns. The horses are 
 small, but very good and showy. Every gentleman in 
 the street is on horseback, with one, two, three, or four 
 servants, according to his rank, walking by his side, one 
 carrying the pipe. 
 
 I witnessed the very curious religious ceremony of the 
 Dervises, a most extraordinary sight. There is no doubt 
 that it has high antiquity as a religious ceremony, and 
 the performance is not so laughably ridiculous as I had 
 expected from descriptions and pictures. There were 
 fifteen dancing at the same time, and during the whole 
 service of prayers and dance I never saw more signs of 
 devotion; the dance indeed appears to be a religious 
 rhapsody. The performers generally continued to turn 
 
 during three or four minutes, then bowed, and almost
 
 92 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 immediately recommenced turning ; during the whole 
 time the eyes appeared closed, and the peculiar effect 
 was given by the perfect fixedness of the body, head, 
 and arms. They assumed a certain position, and I could 
 with difficulty perceive the movement of their feet, and 
 almost felt at a loss to account for the rotatory motion 
 given to the figure. These Dervises are a very small 
 sect, and although followers of the Prophet, they are 
 quite distinct from the rest of the Mahometans; they 
 have here a little privileged convent. I hope to learn 
 more of their history. David danced before the altar, 
 the Chinese dance during prayer, and many pagan na- 
 tions have had the same custom. The music accom- 
 panying the ceremony is simple and monotonous, and 
 performed on a long pipe and a tabor or drum. 
 
 Constantinople has a few standing relics of anti- 
 quity, an aqueduct, still carrying water to a part of the 
 town, and one or two iron-bound columns, which have 
 suffered more from fires than from age. It has a fine 
 obelisk, brought by the Romans from Egypt ; the pe- 
 destal has been carved by the Romans, in the style of 
 a rather base age : on the lower part is a chariot-race, 
 sculptured in a better style and apparently of an earlier 
 school. This is unconnected in subject with the upper 
 part. One of the most curious remains is the " Cistern 
 of a Thousand and One Columns ;" it is subterranean, 
 and is now used as a silk factory. It is a chamber 
 supported by columns, bearing arches of Roman brick 
 from one to the other. I counted two hundred and thirty
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 93 
 
 standing, and I cannot see how a greater number could 
 have been placed here. Perhaps from their form each 
 may be considered as composed of two columns, one 
 above the other ; the two are visible : but even should 
 
 another joint or portion be below the level of the floor 
 of earth, still the number would fall short of this east- 
 ern appellation. Of this term, as applied to indefinite 
 numbers, there are many instances ; amongst others, 
 the ' Thousand and One Nights', and a mass of ruins 
 of Christian churches called the ' Thousand and One 
 Churches'. But, whatever be the origin of the name, 
 it is certainly a very curious place, and from its great 
 height and depth, can have been nothing but a cistern. 
 I have copied some singular characters, cut deeply on 
 most of the granite pillars, apparently at the time of
 
 94 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 their erection, sometimes upon various parts of the 
 capitals, sometimes upon the junctions of the columns. 
 Each of the groups in my copy is taken from a separate 
 column. I think they are Phoenician or Byzantine ; 
 perhaps they may be only numbers or monograms. I 
 hope that, from this notice of them, others may be ena- 
 bled to decipher them. The capitals are of the cushion 
 kind, precisely the shape of the cap worn by the Arm e- 
 nians in this country. 
 
 J>9 O ADC S<L 
 
 ec 
 
 AKA AKAKS 
 
 The mosques contain many marble pillars, and sar- 
 cophagi from ancient cities ; the latter are now used as 
 cisterns ; but these marbles have been transported from 
 all parts of Asia Minor, and can only be looked upon as 
 remains of the country at large. 
 
 I have said that the people here eat a kind of shell- 
 fish like a snail : T find it is a snail, and not a native 
 of the sea, although sold by the fish-dealers. This 
 morning I saw a dozen hampers of them ; the well-
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 95 
 
 known tender-horned inhabitants were gently peeping 
 forth, but an occasional shake given to the hamper made 
 them retire into their shells ; the large brown kind I 
 have before mentioned is the most common, but the 
 people here also eat the more delicate small ones ; as 
 they are not considered meat, they add to the limited 
 fare of the Catholics during the fasts. It is now Lent, 
 and hence the greater display of them in the streets. 
 The snail found in the chalk-pits near Epsom, and said 
 to have been introduced into England nearly a century 
 ago for medicinal purposes, appears to me of precisely 
 the same species*. 
 
 Among the hospitable presents that I have frequently 
 received on my journey, was a simple preparation of 
 cream used in this country, and made from the milk of 
 the goat or buffalo, which I have not very much liked ; 
 but here it is made of cow's milk, and is so excellent 
 that I give the receipt. It is called Kymac, which 
 means scum. Take a pan of new-milk, let it stand on 
 a stove or near a fire, to simmer, but not boil ; a thick 
 scum will form over it, which must not be broken ; when 
 this is well formed, set the whole by till the next day to 
 stand for cream, and it will be found that the cream has 
 saturated and adhered to the spongy under-part of the 
 scum : this coating, nearly half an inch thick, may be 
 taken off, and doubled or rolled up ; it will keep for some 
 days, and is excellent with fruit or coffee, and good with 
 
 * Helix Pomatia.
 
 96 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 anything. The people here seem to use it as a substi- 
 tute for butter, which latter is supplied entirely from 
 Russia ; but neither here nor at Smyrna have I ever 
 tasted it fresh or good. The butter is low-priced how- 
 ever, and used profusely in cakes and pastry, of which 
 great quantities are consumed. There is a kind of curd 
 or cheese, which is pressed and sold in skins ; it is spread 
 upon or eaten with bread, but has a sourish unpleasant 
 taste. I have also occasionally seen as a luxury a de- 
 scription of whipped cream, which is eaten as butter : 
 it is white and opake, and not greasy. Butter, I be- 
 lieve, was never made by the ancient Greeks*. 
 
 The Turks are by no means a dirty people ; their 
 hands, feet, and faces are always religiously kept clean. 
 I know no European country where there is so little 
 annoyance from offensive impurities in the streets. 
 I do not remember ever seeing a Turk spit : what a 
 contrast to the manners of France, Italy, and Germany ! 
 Yet none smoke more than this people, but they smoke 
 in a cleanly manner, always with a mouth-piece ; so 
 that the pipe never enters the lips, and may therefore 
 be, as it often is, without indelicacy handed to a friend. 
 I have never made a trifling purchase without my ser- 
 vant taking the pipe of the shopman while he attends 
 
 * " Butter was unknown to the ancient Greeks ; they have no word 
 which expresses an idea of it : fiovrvpov signifies cheese, or coagulum 
 of cow's milk," (Beloe's Herodotus, book 4. ch. 3.) a very good de- 
 scription of the substance I have named as made by the present inha- . 
 bitants.
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 97 
 
 to me with his wares. When there is any question 
 about price, a pipe is handed, and the parties sit down to 
 smoke, and consider the difference between them ; this 
 has often happened to me in making bargains for horses. 
 But the Turks in their dealings are generally fair, and 
 their claims for increased price seem always made with 
 reason and justice. 
 
 It was my intention to have started hence yesterday, 
 the 15th of March, but a new commander-in-chief and 
 head of police having been just appointed, it was neces- 
 sary to obtain the signatures of the new officers to my 
 firman, which is just sent home, a prodigious docu- 
 ment, for ensuring to me every personal accommoda- 
 tion and assistance on my journey. There is another 
 for obtaining horses, and a third to be used on a new 
 road opened only a few months ago. 
 
 I have seen the Sultan today : he is certainly, consi- 
 dering the people whom he governs, one of the most 
 wonderful men of the age. That reform should be 
 carried into effect, with even dangerous rapidity, among 
 a people ten years ago considered incapable of change, 
 and whose religious habits, education, ideas, and very 
 nature were all opposed to change, and that the whole 
 of these reforms should have been introduced so quickly, 
 show that the Sultan has not only a powerful mind to 
 plan, but an equal energy to effect, such astonishing 
 changes. Within these five or six years, upon his going 
 publicly to mosque, as is always the custom, he was 
 shaded by plumes and dressed in all the cumbrous 
 
 H
 
 98 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 robes and jewels associated with eastern pomp. At that 
 time it was scarcely safe to look up as he passed; the 
 offence of pointing at him was repressed by summary 
 punishment, and report says that the scimitar was sel- 
 dom long idle in its scabbard. Now, on the contrary, 
 he wears a red cap, or fez, with a star in front, and a 
 military European blue cloak over a plain blue uni- 
 form. He rides on an European saddle, and retains 
 none of his former state, except the fumes of incense 
 rising from a censer swung by a page who precedes 
 him. When I saw him he was attended by thirty or forty 
 officers on horseback, all in the same plain uniform, and 
 he rode for about three quarters of a mile along the 
 street lined on either side by soldiers : a band played as 
 he approached. In fact no feature of the ceremony 
 would have appeared extraordinary in any European 
 capital ; and there was scarcely an individual among 
 the thousands that attended, who had not completely 
 changed costume, manners, and almost opinions, during 
 the last few years. In the seraglio the ladies show their 
 faces when attended by their music, drawing, and French 
 masters ; and in so doing at least three offences against 
 the Mahometan law are committed ; that a man should 
 be admitted into the harem, that women should be un- 
 veiled before men, and that Mahometans should be 
 taught to imitate natural objects and to speak a foreign 
 tongue. 
 
 Curious instances are shown however of the difficulty 
 of subduing the prejudices of an ignorant people. One
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 99 
 
 very unpopular reform which the Sultan had to effect, 
 in the formation of his troops, was that of their wearing 
 braces, a necessary accompaniment to the trousers : and 
 why ? because these form a cross, the badge of the 
 infidel, upon the back : many indeed will submit to 
 severe punishment, and even death, for disobedience to 
 military orders, rather than bear upon their persons this 
 sign, hostile to their religion. No one can appreciate 
 the difficulty of making the first change among this 
 people, without knowing their character : succeeding 
 changes will follow with comparatively little opposition. 
 It is amusing to see the longing after old habits, which 
 have become in fact the very nature of the older people : 
 their beards are rather concealed than cut off; and, in 
 spite of the plain blue frock-coat, I often see beneath it 
 costly embroidered vests. This habitual indulgence in 
 variety and extravagance of dress, it will require time to 
 subdue. 
 
 The Sultan does not appear to be above fifty years of 
 age ; he has a short, trim, black beard, sits extremely well 
 and upright on his horse, and looks as if he would in the 
 natural course of life see many more years of change. 
 He is suspected of being a Christian; and certainly his 
 exertions are doing far more than any other means now 
 at work to remove the superstitions of Mahometanism ; 
 and these reforms may perhaps prepare the way for 
 further changes in the religion of the people. Here the 
 barriers of the Mahometan law are falling fast, and there 
 is now as much religious freedom in this as in any city 
 
 H 2
 
 100 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 in the world. There are many picture-shops, and por- 
 traits of the Sultan are seen exposed in all of them, and 
 this by his command. The devices on the embroidered 
 clothes and the painted ceilings and fronts of houses 
 now represent flowers, guns, and flags, objects in na- 
 ture or art, which is a direct violation of the laws of the 
 Koran ; but it would be endless to relate the changes 
 in progress here. It is for this reason that the villages 
 and interior of the country are more interesting to the 
 traveller ; there the change is scarcely perceptible, the 
 natural manners and character of the people remaining 
 undisturbed. In Constantinople the turban and the 
 variety of head-dresses, which I have before described, 
 are comparatively unseen, every one wearing the red 
 cap ; and the character of the people is changing as 
 quickly as the costume. 
 
 The weather is now very fine, but still bitterly cold. 
 I cannot face the north-east wind to make an excursion 
 up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. The straits, as 
 far as I have seen them, are exceedingly beautiful; the 
 continued ravines or sheltered dells on either side, with 
 palaces and villas down to the water's edge, are rich 
 and picturesque, and present a contrast to the bare hills 
 above them. 
 
 The natural situation of Constantinople is lovely, and 
 appears designed for the site of a great city. I know 
 no capital which covers so many and such steep hills, 
 and to this peculiar character it owes the whole of 
 its beauty ; indeed I have never seen a city so pictu-
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 101 
 
 resque, viewed from every point around. The activity 
 among the people, both on land and water, is amusing ; 
 they seem like bees, and their city somewhat resembles 
 a hive. The boats completely speckle the water, and 
 as I have watched them at a distance, they appeared 
 to me stationary; but hundreds succeed to hundreds, 
 moving in all directions, yet from their similarity pro- 
 ducing the effect of fixed objects. In London the tides 
 and the stream of the Thames influence the course of 
 vessels upon it, but these waters have more the ap- 
 pearance of a lake, with equal traffic from all sides. 
 I can frequently count from my window six or seven 
 steamboats ; their introduction is recent, as is also the 
 opening of a bridge, built to unite Pera with Constanti- 
 nople ; it was to form a drive for the Sultan from one 
 palace to another. The bridge is already passable, but 
 the streets leading to it are not yet formed. 
 
 It is said that few persons remain a week in this city 
 without witnessing a fire ; one broke out yesterday, but 
 before I could reach the spot it was subdued. The 
 largest houses are frequently burnt down in the space 
 of ten minutes, being entirely constructed of a very in- 
 flammable wood. The fire-engines are numerous, but, 
 having to be transported on men's shoulders, they are 
 small. The English, French, and Dutch ambassadors' 
 palaces, all in Pera (the district of the city where the 
 Franks live), are in ruins, and their respective govern- 
 ments are tardy in rebuilding them. The ambassadors 
 reside at their country-houses, twelve miles distant.
 
 102 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 BITHYNIA. 
 
 Departure from Constantinople Burial-ground New Road Dil Ferry 
 Manners of the People The Country Natural History Arrival 
 at Nicsea Its Remains Discovery of Inscription Pass of the 
 Mountain LeTky Vizier Khan Power of the Firman Soho6t. 
 
 Saturday, March 17 th. WE left Constantinople this 
 morning at seven o'clock, but were detained at Oos- 
 cooda, the opposite town on the Asiatic side, waiting 
 for horses, until ten. 
 
 These Turks are luxurious fellows ; the post-master 
 left word that he had waited for us until past eight, and 
 was then at his bath ; and as he had to sign my post 
 firman, I was obliged to wait patiently till he had com- 
 pleted his toilet. A governor is never to be seen until 
 after eleven in the morning, being in his harem, which, 
 with his bath and mosque, occupy much of his day. 
 
 For some miles on the way, after leaving Ooscooda, 
 on either side of the road were burial-grounds, whose 
 groves of cypress-trees give a striking feature to hills 
 otherwise uninteresting ; but the view from them of the 
 city, and its splendid situation, will always reward the
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE TO NIOEA. 103 
 
 traveller who may visit them. The whole line of our 
 journey skirted the eastern shores of the Sea of Mar- 
 mora, and passed the series of islands ending with 
 Prince's Isle ; but the chain of eminences is continued 
 by a similar isolated rocky hill upon the coast, and three 
 others which carry on the range towards the north-east, 
 diminishing in size towards the end of the curve, until 
 the termination is marked by the small brown rocks op- 
 posite the entrance to the Bosphorus from the Sea of 
 Marmora. The shore is somewhat monotonous, from 
 its continued undulations, and has no village, or even 
 trees, to give it interest, the whole line of country 
 being for the most part barren. Much of the land is 
 capable of better cultivation, but the greater part would 
 always prove unprofitable. 
 
 There is one feature in this country which is very 
 striking, but more so to the Turks than Europeans, a 
 new road, or rather a road ; for this is, I believe, the 
 only one in Asia Minor. This splendid line, extend- 
 ing at present as far as Ismid, a distance of about sixty 
 miles, was designed by the Austrians, and bears their 
 character even to its rails, barriers, bridges, and mile- 
 posts, all being striped with diagonal lines of black 
 and white. I speak of the design of the road only, for 
 at present it is formed merely of the natural soil of the 
 country, which is far too rich, even in this part, to 
 make carriage-roads without the assistance of M'Adam. 
 It will require a long time to complete such an under- 
 taking ; and indeed it is wonderful how much has al
 
 104 B1THYNIA. 
 
 ready been done, opposed as the work has been by the 
 strong stream of prejudice. The regulations of the road 
 are quite completed; for instance, I was charged for two 
 carriages, one for myself, the other for my luggage; but 
 on asking for them, was told that at this season they 
 could not run upon the road, on account of the mud ; 
 the charge was however the same, and I was to take 
 horses instead. I soon came to a barrier, and was 
 asked for my post firman, which was to be signed, being 
 in fact nothing more nor less than a passport, an in- 
 strument hitherto unknown in this country. The road 
 is also divided into posts, at which we change horses, 
 having had three sets in the space of thirty-three miles : 
 this may appear an advantage over the usual course of 
 taking post-horses for the day or journey, but we found 
 (perhaps owing to the people's inexperience, or natural 
 slowness,) that more than an hour was lost at each post 
 in re-packing the luggage upon the fresh horses. 
 
 It was nearly seven o'clock in the evening when we 
 arrived at Dil Ferry, a solitary house on the sea-coast, 
 containing one very large room, or caffe, but little re- 
 sembling an European one. We took possession of 
 our corner, and were as usual independent of the other 
 company, which consisted of eight or nine people, boat- 
 men, boys, and post-guides. These people were until 
 ten o'clock highly entertaining, and afterwards all lay 
 down in different parts, and I hope slept ; one poor 
 man had a sad asthma, and six dogs and two cats were 
 until five in the morning continually exerting their
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE TO NICLEA. 105 
 
 vocal powers at the door, making such a confusion of 
 noises as I scarcely ever heard. 
 
 The opinion that I formed of the Turkish character 
 from my first observations of their manners was a to- 
 tally mistaken one. All their taciturnity and dignified 
 appearance is assumed, more particularly in the higher 
 classes. This I have had frequent opportunities of ob- 
 serving in the khans and coffee-houses, and in my own 
 rooms each evening, as well as among the innumerable 
 companions by whom we are joined on the road. So- 
 ciability is here carried almost too far, all travellers 
 joining company, and forming a sort of caravan, a 
 custom which originates probably in the necessity of 
 protection. 
 
 I certainly never met with more determined wits than 
 among the lower classes of the people here, in whom the 
 national character is most easily read. Though in per- 
 fect ignorance of their language, I have been so amused 
 by their inimitable acting and buffoonery, and by their 
 games and even childish tricks, that I have laughed 
 until they fancied I understood them, and began to talk 
 to me : my servant was interpreter on these occasions, 
 and their observations and repartees were so pointed, 
 that he hesitated in literally translating them to me. 
 In the coffee-room last night game succeeded game, all 
 ages joining ; and one man, who was unwittingly made 
 the laughing-stock of the party, having had his face 
 blackened while sleeping, took the joke in excellent 
 humour, and enjoyed it as much as any of the party.
 
 106 BITHYNIA. 
 
 The games are generally very simple, perhaps almost 
 childish : no species of gambling is known. Our postil- 
 lion today, the ugliest and most unprepossessing fellow 
 I ever saw, headed us for forty-eight miles on horseback, 
 whistling and hooting after the baggage-horses with as 
 much animation and noise as a huntsman. On our 
 halt for half an hour in the middle of the day, I counted 
 a crowd of people around us, nearly thirty in number, 
 who were all taking the most ridiculous interest in our 
 party, and joking with my servant and guide. On see- 
 ing me look at my watch and map, and then at my com- 
 pass, one of these bystanders said something in a very 
 significant manner, which I learned was, " Ah ! you can 
 tell anything that is, but you cannot, with all your things, 
 say what weather we shall have tomorrow." The remark 
 was quick, and showed a readiness of thought; but what 
 I would more particularly notice is their love of buf- 
 foonery and sprightliness of manners ; the boys are con- 
 stantly saying something smart, that makes my ser- 
 vant laugh, and he in his turn with his whip makes 
 them scamper off. 
 
 In the morning I was up at six o'clock, and by half- 
 past on board the boat which was to ferry us to the op- 
 posite long neck of land stretching out from Ersek, the 
 ancient Drapane. There we had to await the arrival of 
 horses, for which we sent to the village of Ersek, lying 
 about two miles off inland. After sketching the view 
 to the east of the Gulf of Nicomedia (now Ismid), and 
 rambling along the flat, swampy promontory, I examined
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE TO NIC.EA. 107 
 
 the shore, which was entirely formed of shells mixed with 
 weeds, drifted lightly in, and but little broken. I saw no 
 shells but of the common kinds. The echini were very 
 numerous, with many varieties of the scallop, muscle, 
 and cockle ; and there were masses, almost amounting 
 to little rocks, of the worm-like cases of the serpula, 
 which are so often seen attached to the shells of fish. 
 
 Several of the plants were curious. I observed the 
 butcher-broom* as a common shrub, and a species 
 of asparagus t sometimes growing to the tops of the 
 high trees as a creeper. There are water birds here of 
 all kinds; snipes abound, and the stork builds undis- 
 turbed on every public eminence. Why does it always 
 select for this purpose the most public spots, the top 
 of a chimney, a pump, or the trees in the centre of the 
 court-yard of a khan or public square ? It makes a loud 
 chattering noise, entirely instrumental, with its bill, at 
 the same time throwing its head back with a graceful 
 curve ; it does this as an indication of pleasure, and ge- 
 nerally on the return of the mate. 
 
 At the bottom of the shallow clear water, on either 
 side of the road, I saw the tortoise ; but I suppose the 
 early morning was too cold for it to venture out of 
 the water, as I have seen none on the land today. On 
 passing through the small village from which the horses 
 had been procured, I traced for half a mile its ancient 
 towered walls ; and the tombs and paved water-road 
 
 * Ruscus aculeatus. f Asparagus acutifolius.
 
 108 BITHYNIA. 
 
 gave the usual indications of the site of an ornamented 
 city, and supplied now its only memorials. 
 
 Ascending gradually to the hills we forded the river 
 above twenty times, in preference to passing through 
 the stiff mud of the roads : the guides generally seem to 
 avoid the common track, which is always the most im- 
 passable. The scenery now became wild and beautiful; 
 one isolated hill, round which the river flowed, I ob- 
 served, had its summit surrounded with a wall, appa- 
 rently a Roman work ; eight or ten circular towers were 
 still standing. The Turkish name is Chobon Kalasy 
 ('Shepherd's Castle'), and it has probably been a little 
 fortified town. The hills are of a slaty limestone, and 
 are much veined with marble. On the opposite side of 
 a little brook, not four yards from us, lay a dead horse 
 by the side of the stream. The party which were feeding 
 upon it were enjoying their meal greatly : two eagles 
 were perched upon the body, whose heads were con- 
 tinually diving between the ribs ; on the neck were three 
 crows, and at its head and eyes were two magpies ; an- 
 other eagle, quite satiated, was wiping his bill against 
 the hoofs. So intent were they all on their meal, that 
 even the noise of our horses and our shouts caused only 
 the last-mentioned guest to take flight, which he did 
 with much dignified composure. The smaller birds 
 heeded not the eagles, nor did the eagles notice us. 
 
 Today I saw several specimens of that beautiful bird 
 the hoopoe, which is new to me in its wild state. It 
 perches on the trees, gliding among the branches as
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE TO NICJEA. 109 
 
 silently as the woodpecker, and is here extremely bold ; 
 my servant has several times marked it to a small tree, 
 which he has approached, and even beaten the branches; 
 failing to start it he has returned, thinking it gone, 
 when the bird has flown from the tree with a flight 
 similar to that of the blackbird. The hills are almost 
 wholly mounds of rich earth ; indeed the soil is so deep, 
 that where they are at all abrupt the rains have burst 
 the surface and formed landslips ; for twenty miles the 
 country was but scantily cultivated, and had little 
 timber, although capable of producing anything. At 
 Koosdervent (the ' Pass of the Girls') the mulberry is 
 much cultivated, this district supplying the best silk 
 sent to Brusa, the great mart for silk manufactures. 
 
 Leaving this place we passed through underwood and 
 shrubs, all evergreens, and to the eye of an Englishman 
 the richest that could be. There were the common and 
 dwarf daphnes, the blossom of the latter scenting the 
 air ; many varieties also of the laurestinus, and among 
 them the strawberry-tree*, whose luxuriant foliage and 
 beautifully clean and oriental stem distinguished it above 
 its rivals. It grows so large and plentifully as to be the 
 principal firewood, burning rapidly with a great blaze. 
 Amidst this perfect garden, for beneath our feet were 
 violet, hyacinth, and anemone, in great variety, the 
 most beautiful view opened before us, not grand, but of 
 perfectly lovely beauty. In the extreme distance was 
 
 * Arbutus Unedo.
 
 110 BITHYNIA. 
 
 the snowy range of Olympus, and before it a series of 
 fine mountains, with their feet bathed in the most 
 placid of lakes, the ancient Ascania, which is about 
 ten miles long and four in breadth. At the southern 
 end of the lake, beautifully situated, stood the ruined 
 towers of the many times famous Nica?a. Beneath 
 us, sloping from our feet to the edge of the lake, was 
 a highly cultivated and rich valley. We were still 
 twelve miles distant from the town of Nicaea, and every 
 turn we made in the descent only varied the beauties 
 of the scene. After a ride of about forty-six miles, we 
 arrived before six o'clock, on the 19th of March, at the 
 ancient Nicaea. Entering through a hole in the walls of 
 this famed and fated city, we had still another mile to 
 travel through fields and mulberry plantations before we 
 arrived at the village of Isnik, a small place standing 
 within the walls, which form a circuit of four miles 
 around it. As I passed on to this village everything 
 has shown such variety of interest that I have deter- 
 mined to rest a day here. 
 
 March 20th. Seldom have I had a harder day's work 
 than in attempting to see and comprehend this ruin of 
 ruins. The points of the greatest interest are the relics 
 of its earliest age ; little of that date now remains stand- 
 ing in its original form; but the grandeur and peculiar 
 beauty of the arts among the earlier Greeks cannot be 
 concealed even in the broken materials. Three square 
 towers and their connecting walls are evidently built 
 out of the ruins of one magnificent temple, which
 
 NIC^EA. 
 
 Ill 
 
 probably stood on or near their site. The stones, 
 which are of white marble, are so well squared, that, 
 although put together (probably by the Romans) with- 
 out cement, the joints are generally too close to admit 
 the blade of a knife between them. Each stone is also 
 grooved along the edge, as if a line of metal had con- 
 cealed the joint ; the face of the stone has still a polished 
 surface, whilst the groove is left scarcely smooth, show- 
 ing the mark of the tool. If this groove were filled with 
 
 metal, the building must have combined splendour with 
 simple grandeur. Temples in Sacred History are de- 
 scribed as glittering with gold, perhaps from this mode 
 of covering the joints. The cornices are of wreaths of 
 acanthus leaves, with bold dentals and the usual Corin- 
 thian ornaments ; but an idea of the whole building can 
 only be formed from the grand scale of the blocks, and 
 the highly-finished workmanship of the detached frag- 
 ments. Other parts of the walls are composed of the 
 relics of apparently an earlier age, immense stones cut
 
 112 BITHYNIA. 
 
 to fit into each other, without the attention which was 
 paid in later ages to the horizontal courses: these would 
 rank as Cyclopean. Again, some parts of the walls are 
 entirely Roman, being of brick, and with arches built in 
 the most substantial style ; while others are formed of 
 marbles of a much less pure age, in which the cross 
 (always found among the ornaments) and the ill-pro- 
 portioned figures and letters in the inscriptions give 
 them the date of the earlier Christians. On three of 
 the towers in the walls of the city are three similar in- 
 scriptions* : I subjoin a copy of one of these. 
 
 nvprocMi 
 
 XAHAM6FA 
 AOYBACIA 
 tuCNXtuA 
 TOKPATOPO6 
 
 ETOYC STIS 
 
 In other parts of the walls are many inscribed marbles, 
 built in, without regard to their inscriptions, some side- 
 ways, some reversed. 
 
 * The sign of the cross is prefixed to all three. The translation is 
 " The Tower of Michael the Great King, Emperor in Christ " To the 
 first one the date is added, viz. the year of the world STIS, i. e. 6316.
 
 113 
 
 ONHZIMON 
 
 ONHZIMOYTONAfAeONI PAN 
 1/1AIEYZANI AKAHYMMAZIAPXH 
 ZANTAENAOZOZKAIEZTIAZAN 
 lATOZYNEAPIoNyETAAOIPETnOZKAl 
 AOJAHAOZEOZEKAZforEPYZAZ 
 
 HNI^EFIZ hNAPXHNEJIAPXoNON 
 APIZ I AINETIANOYAMMIANOY 
 KAinAYAEINIANOY I PY<t>nNOZ 
 PAM M ATEYONTOZAYPZYMWPOY 
 KAIKOYNoZAIABIOYAYPZ-E<!>ANOY*. 
 
 The following is another inscription which 1 copied 
 from a stone built into the wall. 
 
 KEIAIAPXONAEHAr IATEMIN 
 XEAIAPXONAEriE~EniT-f 
 ^ON-ZEBEnAPXEIAZrAAAIAZ 
 M KYITAN I KIZEF1 1 KE^^ NZON 
 EHITPEHAPXEIAZIMYZIAX 
 AJZKATOEniTPEriAPXEIAZ 
 EH ITPAOYK- EH EAP 
 
 * Translation. 
 
 " Onesimus, son of Onesimus the good, who arranged the pic-nic 
 parties, who presided with high reputation over the Gymnasium, and 
 gave at his own house a magnificent entertainment to the Synedrium, 
 and * * Aristaenetianus Ammianus and Paulinianus Trypho 
 
 being archons, and Aurelius Symphorus Cseco being scribe, during the 
 life of Aurelius Stephanus." 
 
 I
 
 BITHYNIA. 
 AiAlAAAMATIAZ- KAIIZTPI 
 
 AAEEANAPEIAZ-TOYIAIOY 
 
 Aorov 
 
 +AOYKHNOZoAPXEAAOrrON 
 
 I observed two fragments of basso- rilievo, probably 
 part of a frieze, equal to the marbles of the Athenian 
 Parthenon, but much mutilated ; they were three feet 
 deep, and one of them nine feet long, the other frag- 
 ments shorter. The cornice on the lid of a sarcophagus, 
 built into the wall as material, bore an inscription f. 
 
 HAYAEINOZ AOYJ lOr^HZAZETH IZXAIPE 
 
 * Translation. 
 
 " Caiua Lucanus Archelaus at his own cost [commemorates] his 
 friend * * * * * Chiliarch of the 14th double Legion, Chiliarch of the 
 15th Legion, the Emperor's Steward over the province of Aquitanian 
 Gaul for the Census, Steward over the province of the Lower Mysia, 
 Steward over the province of * * * * *, Ducenary Steward over the 
 provinces of Dalmatia and Istria, Ducenary Steward of Alexandria." 
 
 t " Paulinus son of Aulius lived seventeen years. Farewell."
 
 AYTOKPATOPIKAIXAPIMAYPKAAYAiaEYIEBEIEYTYXEl 
 
 KAITHIEPAZYNKAHTOKAITO AH 
 
 YHATIKOYOYEAAElOYMAKPEINOYTPZBEYTOYUAIANTHJP 
 
 fart (jf/njcrypfecn formed/ 
 
 Jofm/ M
 
 tfia 
 
 Jfevt^ he& otv tfw ground. 
 
 MAPXIK HIEEOYITAITOZyEYTEPONANeYnATnnATFinATIAOI 
 
 ^AIIVEnifTHKATAPIITHNEIKAlE^NnOAIITOTEIXOIEniTOYAAMI I P 
 
 .-' 
 
 -irOYTOY^EBKAIIAAAIOVANT^NINOYTOYAAMnPAOniTOY 
 
 ~ 
 
 T 
 
 T 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 of 'finch 2c
 
 NIC^A. 115 
 
 The carvings generally were of a baser age. There were 
 several statues the size of life, and one colossal head, a 
 Medusa, placed over a gateway, probably in its original 
 position. Four gateways, of which the north and south- 
 east are the most important and perfect, are standing in 
 the middle wall (for the town is partly inclosed by a small 
 outer Turkish wall) , and upon these are portions of in- 
 scriptions, but purposely so much erased that I did not 
 copy the few lines remaining. Each has also had me- 
 tallic inscriptions, the holes in the marble for attaching 
 them now only remaining to indicate the shape of the 
 letters. At the two principal arched entrances were 
 immense gateways of a square form, built of very large 
 stones. I was much interested in one of these from see- 
 ing a stone (No. 2. in the annexed plate) near the spot, 
 which I was sure from its form must be the fellow stone 
 to one containing part of an inscription (No. 1.) that 
 I had seen over the gateway ; and if so, its under side 
 would probably have another portion of the same in- 
 scription. I soon collected a number of men, and for a 
 few pence had the stone turned over, and discovered the 
 characters as fresh as if just cut. The men seeing me 
 refer to a book said, " Yes, the Franks know by their 
 books where all the writing and gold are concealed;" 
 always fancying that we search for inscriptions to find 
 treasure. We certainly did find a small coin, but 
 only four hundred years old, probably of the time 
 when the stone fell, for the coin was exposed beneath 
 it. Searching about I found by the road-side three 
 
 i2
 
 116 BITHYNIA. 
 
 other stones (Nos. 3.), lying on the sides of a ditch, and 
 all inscribed in the same style of character as that over 
 the gateway. Judging that they might complete the 
 inscription, I took copies and drawings of all*. 
 
 Upon one of the towers of the wall an inscription 
 rudely formed with tiles is built in edgeways, as repre- 
 sented in the annexed plate. The name "Theodoras" 
 appears, and the whole is probably of Christian date. 
 
 In the midst of the half-buried ruins of the ancient 
 city are some curious remains of an early Greek theatre. 
 The avenues, out of which are large chambers or vaults, 
 now all subterranean, are built of descending arches 
 tending to a centre, probably at the area of the theatre. 
 The workmanship is extremely good, and is colossal, the 
 stones being some nine, and others fourteen, feet in 
 length. Entering with lights, we saw that many of these 
 chambers much resembled each other, and that they 
 were all extremely perfect. We encountered thousands 
 of bats, flying towards the entrance in a cloud ; and as 
 
 * The translation of this inscription, thus completed, is as follows : 
 " The very splendid and large and good city of the Nicaeans [erects] 
 this wall for the autocrat Caesar, Marcus Aurelius Claudius, the pious, 
 the fortunate, august, of Tribunitial authority, second time Proconsul, 
 Father of his Country, and for the Sacred Senate and the People of the 
 Romans, in the time of the illustrious Velleius Macrinus, formerly 
 Consul, Legate, and Lieutenant of the august Caesar Antoninus, the 
 splendid orator." 
 
 The portion of inscription upon the stone marked No. 1. has been 
 published by Von Hammer, " Umblick auf einer Reise nach Brussa : 
 Pesth, 1818." p. 185.
 
 NIC^A. 
 
 117 
 
 they rushed out we were obliged to crouch down, to 
 prevent their striking our faces, or with the flapping 
 of their wings extinguishing our candles. 
 
 A very small church still stands within the present 
 town, which, from its mosaic floor and ceiling, may 
 probably be of the date of St. Mark's at Venice, or 
 rather of the Byzantine age. 
 
 Every fence, step, trough, or paving-stone is from 
 this quarry of art ; many fragments of good sculpture 
 are also built into the houses. Without the walls is a 
 
 Roman aqueduct, which still supplies the town with 
 water from the neighbouring mountain. 
 
 In the lake are the remains of a port or landing-place ; 
 and judging from the foundations seen in the depths 
 of this clearest of water, these works must have been 
 extensive. I have taken several sketches of the exqui-
 
 118 B1THYNIA. 
 
 sitely beautiful scenery of this neighbourhood ; but they 
 cannot give an adequate idea of the natural features of 
 the country, although of the architecture they may. 
 
 On the morning of the 20th of March at eight o'clock 
 I left Nicaea, passing up the valley behind the town 
 towards the south-east, where the hills were covered 
 with short underwood of evergreens, but without tim- 
 ber; the valleys were but scantily cultivated, principally 
 for the growth of the mulberry-tree. We gradually 
 ascended for about twelve miles, when, almost without 
 being aware of it, we reached the summit of a ridge of 
 hills. As the view on approaching Nicaea was calm, 
 rich and beautiful, so was this craggy, rocky and bold. 
 I had before seen nothing so wild and romantic in this 
 country: before us, as we descended through a gorge in 
 the rocks worthy of the Alps, the ranges of mountains 
 rose into rugged points, reminding me of the scenery in 
 Savoy. The view here was extremely grand, and per- 
 haps rendered more so by the sublime effect attending a 
 stormy day, the heavy clouds rolling apart, and thun- 
 dering along the broken chains of mountains, many 
 of the higher peaks being shrouded with clouds. 
 
 The ranges of mountains all yield up their rivers to 
 the Callus, which bears them on to the ancient Sanga- 
 rius. The strata of the limestone rocks are here much 
 contorted, and are often perpendicular, appearing like 
 colossal ruins; if seen foreshortened, they resemble the 
 aiguilles of Switzerland. The town of LeYky stands near 
 the junction with the Gallus of one of the principal
 
 TO COTY^IUM. 119 
 
 rivers, which has its source in the lake by the ancient 
 Csesareia, while its recipient flows directly from Olym- 
 pus. 
 
 Leaving Lefky at two o'clock, we again ascended a 
 range of hills, which changed the scene by opening to 
 our view a highly picturesque but much smaller valley, 
 with its river, and bold and almost perpendicular range 
 of cliffs, attainable only by the eagles, whose nests we 
 saw on the broken crags. Around us the rocks were 
 covered with a beautiful flower, looking like a kind of 
 dwarf stock*. Fifteen miles brought me to this place, 
 Vizierkhan, which I reached by half-past four, Deme- 
 trius having ridden forward with the firman to obtain 
 accommodation, which is here afforded, as it was at 
 Nicsea, in the house of a Greek family. At present I 
 cannot overcome the feeling of intrusion and obliga- 
 tion, and therefore am not so independent as at a khan ; 
 but this mode has many advantages, and one is allowing 
 me more time to write and draw, as I am freed from the 
 intrusion, amusing though it be, of the Turks, and from 
 the gossiping which they carry on with my servant 
 whilst he is cooking. I find he is stored with thim- 
 bles, needles, and scissors ; and by presents of them he 
 makes himself very popular with the young people of 
 
 * On showing a drawing of this plant at the Linnean Society, with- 
 out naming in what country I had been rambling, I was at once told, 
 that it was a plant peculiar to the sides of Mount Olympus in Bi- 
 thynia, and had never been heard of elsewhere, that it was the 
 Arabis purpurea.
 
 120 BITHYNIA. 
 
 the families with whom we stay, and I generally profit 
 by eating the fruits given to him in return. He re- 
 ceived yesterday a quince, but so large that I did not 
 recognise the species ; it weighed, I should think, a 
 pound ; I am to have it cooked a la Turque. 
 
 Vizierkhan has its name from an immense khan 
 founded for the Haggi, or pilgrimage to Mecca. On 
 examining the stone of this building I have been much 
 puzzled. I had seen on entering Lefky, in a wall of 
 loose stones, one which, like the rest, was of a pale 
 greenish colour, but contained beautiful specimens 
 of fossil shells quite protruding from it ; there were a 
 scallop or two of different sizes, and a kind of snail or 
 round shell, all of the same colour as the stone. I called 
 Demetrius back to look at them, and to show him the 
 difference between these shells and those which we saw 
 at Troy, which were themselves imbedded in lime. 
 Thinking fossils might be common, I did not dismount 
 from my horse. On proceeding I found the rocks in 
 the neighbourhood of the same colour, and thought 
 they were of a greenish limestone, or perhaps sand- 
 stone ; but I now find that the khan, the only stone 
 building in this village, is formed of the same material, 
 and that it is an igneous rock, not stratified, and speck- 
 led throughout with green schisty particles. How 
 comes this to contain shells ? I have described the 
 stone in the wall at LeTky to the post-guide, and he is 
 to send it after me by the first Tartar coming. 
 
 March 2lst. Quitting Vizierkhan, which we did this
 
 NICLEA TO COTY.EIUM. 121 
 
 morning by six o'clock, we again continued our ascent 
 amidst mountains of the same bold and craggy character, 
 the only vegetation being shrubs, amongst which the 
 berries of the arbor vitas scented the air with their pe- 
 culiar perfume. The smell reminded me of painting in 
 oils, and my servant exclaimed, " What a strong smell 
 of castor oil ! " We at length reached a summit, which 
 I expected would be quite sterile, but found a fine 
 cultivated country, the sloping hills clothed with the 
 mulberry, and the plains with corn ; and this continued 
 with little change for about twelve or fifteen miles, until 
 we arrived at the town of Sohoot. 
 
 Here I had to wait two hours for horses ; and after 
 piling my baggage under a wide-spreading plane-tree in 
 the open space in the town, my servant accompanied me 
 in search of antiquities. On my suggesting the pos- 
 sibility of the unguarded luggage being stolen during 
 our absence, he replied that the Turks might not steal, 
 their religion forbade it ; that the things were quite 
 safe, and the more so from their being left exposed. 
 During this time I was the lion of the place. One of 
 the chief persons begged me to tell him the hour ; and 
 his watch and others (if there were any others in the 
 town) were doubtless regulated by mine, which I had 
 set by guess some weeks before whilst I was watching 
 the sun sink into the sea. 
 
 Two very anxious-looking men came to ask me to 
 prescribe for their friend, who was sick, and wished me 
 to go and see him; my servant assured them that I was
 
 122 BITHYNIA. 
 
 no doctor, and advised me not to offer even simple me- 
 dicines, as if the man grew worse it would be attributed 
 to me. His case was simple, and I have no doubt I 
 could have cured him ; but I have not much compunc- 
 tion for not having attempted it, as his disorder had 
 been caused by eating too much of a not very whole- 
 some dish called Youghoot. This food is very common 
 here, and generally liked by Europeans ; it resembles 
 lemon cream, but is made of commoner materials, 
 namely new milk with a little rennet, turning it to a 
 curd, which is not pressed, but eaten in the consist- 
 ency of jelly; this dish is served up at all times, and 
 with various accompaniments. Sometimes for ceco- 
 nomy a little of a former making is kept to leaven the 
 new batch.
 
 123 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 PHRYGIA. 
 
 A Forest Onedenoo Singular Caves Mountains and Table-lands 
 Curious Geological features Kootrfya Extraordinary Rocks 
 Expedition to seek Doganlu Customs of the People JEzani Its 
 Antiquities Inscriptions Habits of a Private Family Delicacy of 
 the Manners Departure for Altuntash Sichanled Sandooklee* 
 Dumburi-ovasy The Plague Catchiburloo . 
 
 AFTER leaving Sohoot, we came upon a less productive 
 country, and the rocks, protruding through the scanty 
 underwood, were of volcanic production, a kind of grey- 
 coloured basalt, or lava. In about an hour we entered 
 a forest, extending for some hundreds of miles to the 
 north-east, till it reaches the shores of the Black Sea. 
 In crossing this part of it, we rode through woods of 
 oak, fir, and plane, with a great variety of underwood, 
 for about twelve miles. On the ground, among the 
 dead leaves of the oak, sparkled the most fresh and 
 gay-looking flowers ; the commonest, which tinged the 
 banks with a beautiful reddish lilac, was the cycla- 
 men*; and there were the snowdrop, primrose, the 
 
 * C. coum.
 
 124 PHRYGIA. 
 
 beautiful dwarf hyacinth, the yellow, blue and lilac 
 crocus, with many others. 
 
 On quitting this forest we crossed a valley, and saw 
 at a distance of about four miles, under the cliffs or 
 ranges of mountains, the town of Oneoenoo, (meaning 
 a " Place of Caves,") so called from some caves in the 
 cliffs overhanging the town. The situation appears 
 very damp and unhealthy, and the perfectly flat valley, 
 which is almost a swamp, seems to be the possession 
 of plovers and wild ducks. The situation is strikingly 
 like that of Magnesia, but the Hermus is wanted to 
 drain the meadows in front. The ground here is so 
 high that it appears to receive no waters but from the 
 heavens, a source which latterly has been very liberal. 
 
 Oneoenoo is a long village immediately under the 
 face of the rock, and is overhung by two immense 
 arches or caves, which at a distance I had no doubt were 
 artificial, the forms of the huge arches being so perfect. 
 
 This evening I ascended to them, and extremely cu- 
 rious they are. The whole rock is of marble, veined 
 with red, but shivered into innumerable cracks as if 
 by heat. The caves are evidently natural, although at 
 an early age of the Turks perhaps, or in the time of 
 the Christians, the fronts have been fortified by strong 
 walls, parts of which still remain. The caves communi- 
 cate with one another, and from their size and dryness, 
 as well as commanding situation, they must have been an 
 excellent substitute for a castle. Through several small 
 cavities or fissures in the rock of the caves, water had
 
 NIC.EA TO COTY.E1UM. 125 
 
 at a remote period filtered, forming a semi-transparent 
 crust of stalactite. While in the cave I was surprised 
 at hearing distinctly people talking and dogs barking as 
 if close to the entrance, but on going to the front of 
 the cave, I perceived that the sounds came from the 
 village beneath. The effect of this immense ear or 
 sounding-board was as powerful as a whispering gal- 
 lery ; and perhaps this peculiarity might have been an 
 advantage in times of war or alarm. 
 
 Several fragments of columns, altars, and other re- 
 mains were built into the walls of the houses in the 
 town, but the principal material used was lava or scoria, 
 of nearly every colour ; many of the spongy holes being 
 filled with a white crystallized substance similar to that 
 which I have seen in the basaltic columns at Staffa. 
 
 March 22nd, On leaving the town, before we began 
 the ascent of the mountains to the south, we passed a 
 pond or small lake, the temperature of which was shown 
 by steam rising from the water ; it was supplied by some 
 hot-springs which rise at the foot of the cliff After 
 ascending for a quarter of an hour, I looked back to the 
 valley we had left, surrounded by its little range of low 
 hills, and saw over them to the north-west Olympus 
 covered with snow, at a distance in a straight line of at 
 least ninety miles ; but the elevation here is very great. 
 We continued the ascent for an hour, and I fully ex- 
 pected to find myself on a barren summit, and then to 
 descend into more eastern climes ; but what was my 
 surprise on reaching the top at seeing before me mea-
 
 126 
 
 PHRYGIA. 
 
 dows and cultivated land for twenty miles, and a series 
 of gentle hills and undulations beyond, still bounding 
 the view ! These table-lands are a peculiarity in this 
 country, and materially affect its climate. Yesterday I 
 rode through a garden of flowers, today I have in forty 
 miles seen nothing in bloom except the yellow crocus. 
 The country is some weeks later than that of my yes- 
 terday's ride, and many weeks later than that of the 
 north-western parts over which I have lately travelled. 
 In ascending we passed up a craggy marble steep, down 
 which had rolled many rounded pieces of lava and 
 blocks of red marble of the kind so frequently seen in 
 combination with the white marble, and came to a 
 small hill of the serpentine schist, like that near Enae. 
 For fifteen miles we rode over this table-land, almost 
 the whole being in pasture, and here, in this wild and 
 high country found a burial-ground, consisting only of 
 a few graves, but several of them marked by columns 
 or cornices, and one by a richly carved pedestal or altar, 
 with the following inscription.
 
 NIC^EA TO COTYJEIUM. 127 
 
 ArAOHTYXH0EOIEOEIOIEKAIA 
 KAIOIEHPCXNXAIi 
 
 AEIXAEKAIAEKXIIFIAE 
 Ol AEK XH n AXATYnOr 
 
 KOYPNAETHNOI Ai * 
 
 Of the carving on each side I could see but little, 
 those parts being sunk deep into the earth ; but a figure 
 with wings which was on one side, led me to believe 
 this fragment of Christian date. 
 
 All the hills before me presented in form the same 
 appearance, and I was the more eager to approach them 
 as the stones on the land were of a singular chalky, 
 soapy appearance. I had reason here to regret my slight 
 knowledge of geology, as I feel confident that more 
 scientific observers would find much that is extremely 
 remarkable. I believe that the whole of this district is 
 marble or limestone, as I have already described the 
 mountain at Oneoenoo ; and the country which we have 
 crossed since leaving it, a distance of forty miles to the 
 north-west of this place, (we are now at Kootaya, the an- 
 cient CotyaBium,) appears of the same character, and but 
 little varied. In elevation it is still on the high plains, 
 
 * These fragments may perhaps be rendered as follows : 
 
 " May it be fortunate. 
 
 " Herophilus [erected this according to the tenor of his] vow to the 
 gods, to divine and just persons. Asilas and Asclepas, Sons of 
 Asclepas, Citizens of Curnaetos."
 
 128 
 
 PHRYGIA. 
 
 and the boundary hills generally appear white and flat 
 table tops, much and very conspicuously stratified. The 
 
 intervening matter having perished, the stratum remains 
 almost a shelf; and towards the foot of the hills are slopes 
 of the debris from the softer parts/ forming unpicturesque 
 heaps, apparently of lime. I observed another appear- 
 ance in the distance, which was extremely singular; the 
 background was a stratified cliff or hill, and the lower 
 shelf of these strata, which stood on a soft hill of the 
 white loose substance looking like lime, was surmounted 
 by a number of pointed sugar-loaf rocks, and in other 
 
 places by lofty rocks perforated with caves, having arti- 
 ficial forms, although from their appearance I judged
 
 NIC^A TO COTY.EIUM. 129 
 
 them to be natural openings to caves within equally 
 natural; a deep river intervening prevented a closer 
 examination of them. 
 
 The whole of this immense district appears to be 
 agate or chalcedony, the strata varying beautifully in 
 appearance. The prevailing kind is of a flinty opaque 
 white ; the next proportion is of a transparent white, 
 deepening to almost the black appearance of our flint, 
 and in every shade; it has, like flint, the property of 
 emitting light. Another large portion varies from yel- 
 low to orange, and is sometimes opaque and sometimes 
 transparent ; and again another is of a pink tinge, 
 shaded into red. In the white, similar gradations lead 
 to a green hue. I have brought away specimens of 
 each, but I do not exaggerate in saying that the road 
 and rocks were all glittering with many-coloured agates. 
 The softer parts look as if burned or calcined, like lime, 
 and when wet form a kind of mortar. My ride of forty 
 miles has probably not extended across the whole of 
 this field of chalcedony. In some instances the stones 
 of this substance were themselves striped, and in one 
 or two I saw them in nodules like flints. It cannot 
 be that the whole should be a bed of chalk, con- 
 taining flints of various kinds, although the appearance 
 of the country led me at first to suppose that this was 
 the case. I do not know that any scientific geologist 
 has traversed this region, but I hope that it may have 
 been visited by Mr. Hamilton during his recent excur- 
 sion. If I were to indulge my own speculation, I should 
 
 K
 
 130 PHRYGIA. 
 
 ask if heat, which by the scattered lava, hot springs, 
 and various appearances is shown to have been so ac- 
 tive an agent here, may not have produced the dif- 
 ferent effects on the various textures of marble which 
 I have noticed. May not the most soft or limy parts 
 have been calcined, and by exposure to moisture de- 
 composed? May not the more stalactitic or aqueous 
 parts have partially withstood the heat, and by its ac- 
 tion have only been somewhat hardened and crystal- 
 lized ? And may not this have been the case also 
 with the red portions of the marble, which are always 
 the hardest? I must notice that the strata are all 
 apparently horizontal. Before entering this singular 
 plain, I likewise observed, after leaving Oneoenoo, that 
 the hard baked cliffs were pierced in all directions with 
 veins of a crystallized marble, or perhaps of this same 
 agate-like substance. 
 
 We soon entered another plain, much resembling 
 the one at Oneoenoo ; and on the opposite side, again 
 under a cliff, stood the large town of Kootaya. The 
 plain is traversed by a considerable river, the ancient 
 Thymbrius, which, like the Gallus, falls into the San- 
 garius. To enable me to judge of the elevation of our 
 present position, I asked the name of a snow-mountain 
 in the south-west, and found it was Baba Dagh, the an- 
 cient Mount Cadmus, at a distance, as appears by the 
 map, of about one hundred and ten miles. There is 
 another pile of the sugar-loaf aiguilles, which I have 
 before described, not far distant from this town ; I shall
 
 COTY.E1UM. 131 
 
 therefore remain here in order to visit them, and also 
 to rest, or rather to vary my occupation. 
 
 March 22nd. I have today closely examined these 
 hills, and am amazed, but no longer in doubt. The 
 whole of the white limy or chalky matter forming them, 
 and which is stratified with chalcedony, is a volcanic 
 dust, the lower being more purely tufa, the higher more 
 mixed with the shattered fragments of various kinds of 
 broken stone ; but far the greater part is pumice-stone, 
 and all appears massed or washed together by a rush of 
 waters. The curiously shaped points are almost wholly 
 of pumice, which may account for their being less de- 
 composed. I have filled my pockets with specimens, 
 but the varieties of appearance caused by volcanic heat 
 are endless. The peculiarities of this country are so 
 striking, that I hope, with my collected specimens and 
 such explanation as I can give, to gain information re- 
 specting it from my geological friends*. 
 
 May not one fancy oneself, upon the granite range 
 of Olympus, Caucasus, or Taurus, as on the side of a 
 
 * I am sorry to find that Mr. Hamilton has not seen the line of 
 country which I have taken ; I heard however from my servant, who 
 has travelled much eastward of this part, that the peculiarities con- 
 tinue the same ; and I find that in a district near Csesarea, perhaps 
 three hundred miles to the eastward, Mr. Hamilton thus describes, far 
 better than I have been able to do, the singular features of a similar 
 country. " ' In the ravine near Tatlar and in the valleys of Utch-hissar 
 and Urjub, the tuff has been worn into cones from one hundred and 
 fifty to three hundred feet high. They are principally detached from 
 the sides of the valleys, but are connected at the base ; and are in 
 
 K2
 
 132 PHRYGIA. 
 
 cauldron pouring forth the hoiling matter, which as it 
 subsides forms its scum of agate and froth of pumice ? 
 May we not suppose that after a lapse of ages, volcanic 
 heat bursts forth again, shattering the crust; that it af- 
 terwards slumbers and coats itself with its agate scum ; 
 and again bursting forth, that at last its own produc- 
 tions become its prison-walls ? For thousands of ages 
 has this region stood deserted ; not even a shell re- 
 mains as a record of past life, while all the world 
 around has been clothed with vegetation and peopled 
 with animals, whose fossil dead have formed mountains. 
 At length the germs of vegetation, borne on the wings 
 of the wind, have strewn the barren dust, already soft- 
 ened with rain, and it has been clothed with trees and 
 verdure. Then did man, wandering from the southern 
 east, take possession of this new world, making dwell- 
 ings for himself in its caves of soft dry pumice, and 
 feeding on the spontaneous fruits around him. But I 
 must not waste paper and time in speculating further 
 on what may have been, but note down what now is. 
 These peculiar, pointed rocks are hollowed like a 
 
 some places so numerous and close together that they resemble at a 
 distance a grove of lofty cypresses. Where the cones occur on the 
 sides of the valleys, they exhibit every stage of development, from the 
 first indication of a mound near the summit of the slope, to the full- 
 formed cone at the bottom. In the valley of Urjub some of them are 
 capped by a mass of hard rock, which projects like the head of a mush- 
 room.' The production of these cones the author ascribes to the action 
 of running or atmospheric water." (Proceedings of the Geological 
 Society, No. 56, vol. ii.)
 
 EXCURSION FROM COTY^IUM. 133 
 
 honeycomb with sepulchral caves, many leading from 
 one to the other by flights of steps, and all having 
 small recesses scooped out of the sides, probably for 
 urns containing the ashes of the dead, and little holes 
 above each for a lamp or small offering ; in some of 
 them slight traces of architectural ornaments remain. 
 In these, near Kootaya, the debris has so far buried 
 the points, that several of the chambers are not above 
 the level of the mound at their base. In one of these 
 tombs I saw above twenty holes or receptacles for the 
 dead bodies, forming a series of bins or troughs around 
 the cave. These are now used as mangers, the place 
 being converted into a stable, holding fifty or sixty 
 beasts. A fire lighted in the centre has blackened the 
 whole of the flat roof, which still retains the marks of 
 the pickaxe used in its formation. 
 
 March 24th. Here I was misled by the misnomers 
 of the map-makers, which have been followed in the 
 books written by travellers. I asked for Doganlu, or, 
 as the " Useful Knowledge" maps term it, Dooanlu, 
 but no such place was known. With compass, map, 
 and guide-book however we started, leaving the luggage 
 behind. Our course lay up the valley towards the 
 south-east, and at about seven miles crossed a river, 
 and soon after passed the little village of Arracooe : we 
 proceeded in the same direction through a country 
 scarcely varying in any respect from our route since 
 we left Onedenoo, vegetation being as yet stationary ; 
 not a flower was to be seen but the half-starved yellow
 
 134 PHRYGIA. 
 
 crocus springing from the brown grass, and the goats 
 were browsing on the dead leaves of the stunted oaks, 
 or on the branches of the arbor vitae and juniper. 
 
 At the distance of twenty miles from Kootaya we en- 
 tered a valley, also filled with the singularly formed 
 pointed rocks of the pumice-earth, and for eight miles 
 passed through a continued cemetery, the rocks and the 
 ground being perforated by thousands of caves. Each 
 of those which we entered had others above and below 
 it, and the road sounded hollow from the excavations. 
 A sound like this indeed is always heard in trotting 
 over this kind of soil, but here the effect is stronger, 
 and must be caused by caves underneath. The most 
 important group of these pumice-rocks forms a hill, 
 which has the appearance of a castle standing at the 
 end of a plain, and that idea is conveyed by the Turkish 
 name, Gurjare Kalasy. In one or two of these caves 
 were the remains of architectural ornaments cut in the 
 rock: a few scattered columns, door-frames, and pede- 
 stals were seen in the valleys in the neighbourhood, but 
 they had more the appearance of having formed parts 
 of the cemeteries than of having been the remains of 
 ancient towns. 
 
 On making inquiries of the peasantry, I learned that 
 the neighbourhood was full of ruins, which appeared 
 from their description to be all of tombs : at about two 
 hours' distance to the east, they said, there were re- 
 mains, which must be marble sarcophagi, some broken, 
 but others not yet opened.
 
 EXCURSION FROM COTY^IUM. 135 
 
 We continued our route to Dooaslan, which is called 
 in the maps Doganlu ; this name is also erroneously 
 given by the writer of the " Modern Traveller" to a 
 place described as near Kasru Khan, which latter vil- 
 lage is twenty-eight miles distant from this misnamed 
 Doganlu. In the place of this name he describes some 
 interesting inscriptions on the rock, which I learned 
 are at the village of Yasilichia (a name signifying 
 " Writing on the Rocks") , about eight miles N.N.W. 
 of Kasru Pasha Khan, near Ghumbat. This error has 
 occasioned us a ride of fifty-six miles, which with much 
 difficulty we accomplished upon the same horses, re- 
 turning to Kootaya by ten o'clock the same night. 
 
 On our return we were obliged to stop to feed the 
 horses at the little village of Arracooe, seven miles from 
 Kootaya. Here we rested for an hour and a half, and 
 had an opportunity of noticing the simple and hospi- 
 table customs of the country. A traveller had just 
 arrived; and as the village, consisting only of a few 
 huts, was too small to have a governor, the inhabitants 
 have a house for strangers, which is as good as any 
 in the place, although without windows : one end of 
 the room forms the stable, accommodating six horses. 
 The traveller who had arrived before us was at prayers ; 
 but no circumstance ever disturbs Mahometans at their 
 devotions, when they appear completely abstracted. I 
 delayed to enter until the traveller rose, when the 
 prayer-mat was hung up and he gave me the usual 
 salaam. I was beginning to make my meal upon the
 
 I3G PHRYGIA. 
 
 food we had with us, when in came nine people each 
 bearing a dish. A large tray was raised on the rim 
 of a corn-sieve placed on the ground, in the centre 
 of which was put a tureen of soup, with pieces of 
 bread around it. The stranger, my servant, and a 
 person who seemed to be the head man of the village 
 sat round the tray, dipping their wooden spoons or 
 fingers into each dish as it was placed in succession 
 before them. Of the nine dishes I observed three 
 were of soups. I asked why this was, and who was to 
 pay for the repast; and was informed that it is the 
 custom of the people, strictly enjoined by their reli- 
 gion, that, as soon as a stranger appears, each peasant 
 should bring his dish; he himself remaining to partake 
 of it after the stranger has fed, a sort of pic-nic, of 
 which the stranger partakes without contributing. The 
 hospitality extends to everything he requires; his horse 
 is fed, and wood is brought for his fire, each inhabitant 
 feeling honoured by offering something. This custom 
 accounts for the frequent recurrence of the same dish, 
 as no one knows what his neighbour will contribute. 
 Towards a Turkish guest this practice is perfectly dis- 
 interested, but from an European they may possibly 
 have been led to expect some kind of return, although 
 to offer payment would be an insult. The whole of the 
 contributors afterwards sit down and eat in another 
 part of the room. 
 
 Instead of waiting till the horses had fed, I had de- 
 termined to walk forward to Kooto'ya, but was deterred
 

 
 - 
 
 n ^ 
 
 ^ ^ 
 -- 
 
 r= 
 
 
 

 
 EXCURSION TO ^EZANI. 137 
 
 by its being dusk ; for having no lanterns, we could not 
 have entered the town without incurring the penalty 
 of the law which prevails here, as in all Turkish towns, 
 for the prompt apprehension and imprisonment of any 
 person found in the streets without a light after dusk. 
 
 March 25th. This morning I left Kootaya for Tja- 
 den, in order to see the ruins of jEzani ; and the di- 
 stance being thirty-six miles, I arranged to return on 
 the following day. Our route lay west-south-west, and 
 the country through which we passed presented the 
 same geological features, except that much of our track 
 the second day lay at an elevation of probably two 
 thousand feet above the plain of Kootaya. In several 
 places were strata of slate, some almost white, and 
 generally too much shivered by heat to be used for 
 the purposes to which we apply it in Europe. The 
 road was wild and overgrown with stunted oak and 
 juniper, and had nothing of interest about it, not a 
 village or house for the first thirty- two miles. When 
 we arrived at Hagicooe, my horse strained his shoulder, 
 and I left him with the guide, whose horse I took 
 across the plain to ^Ezani. The sight of a temple 
 which I passed in the twilight made me long for the 
 morning, to examine the numerous and comparatively 
 perfect remains which I saw in every direction. 
 
 The modern village consists of a few huts, and is as 
 straggling as most other Turkish villages. We were 
 as usual shown to the stranger's house, which I will 
 describe as a specimen of this kind of building, and as
 
 138 PHRYGIA. 
 
 displaying the manners of the people, which, as I ad- 
 vance into the interior of the country, are becoming 
 more simple. My arrival in the place was generally 
 known before I reached the stranger's house, which 
 had a wall of loose stones piled round to mark the ex- 
 tent of the premises, the whole of the stone employed 
 being fragments of worked marble. The house was 
 of mud mixed with straw, about seven feet high, with 
 a flat roof of earth grown over with grass, and a chim- 
 ney, but no window. We passed through the stable 
 into the smaller apartment within, which had walls 
 of bare mud, and a wide open chimney, admitting 
 scarcely sufficient light to enable me to see the interior. 
 I was closely followed by three men, each with a con- 
 tribution of fire- wood, small fir-trees, which they placed 
 up the chimney, out of the top of which they protruded; 
 and these being set on fire, in a few minutes gave to the 
 little room a most cheerful appearance, and showed the 
 floor matted, and on either side of the fire a carpet, 
 cushion, and pillows, looking very clean and comfort- 
 able. As we had no bedding or canteen with us, we 
 fared as strangers, and my cloak was the only additional 
 furniture. 
 
 We asked for something to eat, and in a short 
 time appeared, dish by dish, a curious but very good 
 dinner. Three of the peasants brought bowls of soup ; 
 four others dishes of eggs, some fried with little pieces 
 of meat, others with butter, or simply poached. We 
 had also an excellent pelaf, turnep-radishes scraped like
 
 J2ZANI. 139 
 
 horseradish, and sweets made of honey; and another 
 sweet made from the dried grape, which is commonly 
 used in Turkey as a substitute for sugar : it is the raisin 
 stewed until the moisture evaporates, and this treacly 
 substance remains. The dishes were left but a short 
 time on the tray, and were taken off by the sons of my 
 hosts who attended upon us. As soon as the tray was 
 removed, the carpet was swept, lest any crumbs should 
 have fallen, it being a religious law never to tread on 
 food. The same mode of eating was observed by the 
 younger party, who afterwards sat down to the meal in 
 another part of the room, finishing each dish in rota- 
 tion ; then the whole party sat down round the fire, some 
 with their pipes, talking and telling the simplest tales 
 of commonplace occurrences, the scene of which was 
 of course always their own viUage. My inquiries were 
 for coins and relics, which were hunted for in every 
 child's toy-place or old wall where they had been 
 noticed. Each person produced his fancied treasure, 
 which he had preserved because some Frank had before 
 given money for such things. They know nothing of 
 the value or uses of our purchases. I heard of a beau- 
 tiful Greek statue being sold by them for five shillings, 
 and two bronze vases for eight shillings ; and yet they 
 were boasting of the large sums such things produced. 
 My servant bought thirty or forty Greek coins, some of 
 silver, at an average of three farthings each; and I ob- 
 tained at an equally cheap rate the foot of a statue and 
 some bronze handles.
 
 140 PHRYGIA. 
 
 I think I have not mentioned that the light generally 
 used in this part of the country, even in the large town 
 of Koota'ya and the other towns through which I have 
 passed, is a chip of the fir-tree. The people make a 
 wound in the tree, which draws the sap to that part, 
 and the tree is then cut for fire- wood, reserving this 
 portion filled with turpentine for candles. I was sur- 
 prised to find how long they burned ; during a meal a 
 piece is placed between two stones, and it burns with 
 a large flame and a black smoke for half an hour. At 
 ./Ezani they brought some of this resinous wood to 
 light our fire ; and when any one of our party quitted 
 the room, he with his large knife (a weapon which all 
 carry) split off a slip, which served him for a candle. 
 We met people in the streets at Kootaya carrying 
 them; but the rich use tallow-candles, in the excellent 
 and elegant lantern of the East made of folded paper. 
 
 In the morning my breakfast-table was furnished 
 with the very good brown bread of the country, and 
 with a kymac and a large supply of milk ; for my 
 servant they brought a meal of soup, etc., which he 
 with a party of six enjoyed : this hospitality appears 
 from habit, and perhaps from its religious obligation, 
 to have become a part of their nature. The Frank 
 however, when he is so treated, may mostly find one of 
 the younger of the party, who, whilst holding a stirrup 
 or the horse's head at parting, is quite ready to receive 
 a present, which probably exceeds the value of the ar- 
 ticles consumed.
 
 u 
 
 H 
 
 H
 
 jEZANI. 
 
 141 
 
 I had heard of the recent discovery of ^Ezani, and, 
 having been told that it was a small Roman town of the 
 time of Adrian, I felt comparatively little interest about 
 seeing it. But I now find from its architecture that 
 it appears to be a purely Greek city, though perhaps 
 afterwards possessed by the Romans, as there are some 
 few Latin inscriptions. The architecture is entirely 
 Greek, except the tombs, many of which appear to be of 
 a more recent period than the public buildings. The 
 situation of the town is not so striking as the Greeks 
 generally choose, but it has its gentle hills, one of 
 which was its Acropolis, crowned with a very highly 
 finished Ionic temple, No. 6. in the following plan. 
 
 Eighteen columns, with one side and end of the cella, 
 are still standing. In the interior of the latter are four 
 long inscriptions, one in well-formed Greek characters, 
 and apparently as old as the temple ; of this I took a 
 copy.
 
 142 PHRYGIA.
 
 143 
 
 There is another inscription in inferior Greek cha- 
 racters, and there are two in badly cut Roman : on 
 the outside of the cella also are three or four more ; 
 but my time having been spent in taking sketches and 
 in visiting the other ruins, I could only copy one of 
 these, which I subjoin (page 144). Moreover the 
 weather was so cold, and the snow falling so fast, that 
 I had difficulty in putting anything on paper. 
 
 * Translation of Inscription at page 142. 
 
 " Avidius Quintus to the Archons, the Council, and the People of 
 ^Ezani sendeth greeting. 
 
 " The dispute carried on during many years about the sacred terri- 
 tory which was anciently dedicated to Jupiter, has by the forethought 
 of the very Great Emperor been ended. For, after I wrote to him ex- 
 plaining the whole matter and inquired what was to be done, he pre- 
 scribed two things which may best tend to extinguish this difference 
 for you, and to diminish in the view of a benevolent citizen whatever 
 is difficult to be performed or discovered in the affair, viz. a principle 
 of equity, in conjunction with care in the public administration of 
 justice, things which will put an end to your protracted contention and 
 your spirit of reciprocal suspicion ; as you will see from the epistle 
 which he sent to me, and a copy of which I have just sent to you. 
 And I have sent directions to Deespepus, the steward of the Emperor, 
 to select proper surveyors, and to employ them in measuring the said 
 territory."
 
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 ^EZANI. 145 
 
 At the foot of the Acropolis, which is for the most 
 part artificially raised upon fine substantial arches of 
 massive stone similar to the vaults of Nicsea, stand se- 
 veral pillars of another temple (No. 5. in the plan of the 
 town given at p. 141) ; and between these and the river 
 is a single column, now occupied by the nest of a stork, 
 four similar ones having been just removed and used 
 in the erection of a Governor's house at Kootaya. On 
 a hill towards the north are the colossal foundations 
 of another temple (No. 7.), which from the many splen- 
 did fragments of Corinthian columns and friezes scat- 
 tered around, I have no doubt was of that order. Still 
 further to the north-east stands a hill (No. I.) covered 
 with tombs, and hollowed out from the side of it is a 
 beautiful Greek theatre (No. 2.) ; the seats still remain, 
 and such a mass of the materials, that the whole might 
 
 * Translation of Inscription at page 144. 
 
 " The Archon of the Panhellenes, and Priest of the god Hadrian Pan- 
 hellenius, and Director of the Games at the Great Panhellenia, Jason, 
 and the Panhellenes, to the Greeks of Asia send greeting. 
 
 " By the testimony contained in another letter of ours we have already 
 expressed our regard for Marcus Ulpius Apuleius Eurycles, citizen of 
 ^Ezani, having written both to you on his behalf, and to his country, 
 and to the very great Emperor. The most excellent Jason having ac- 
 cepted the archonship, we have thought it right to renew this testimony, 
 inasmuch as he has always evinced courtesy and great modesty in the 
 administration of the ***** an( j ^{ s resolution we pass to 
 the honour of his forefathers, preferring more especially his descendants 
 on account of what he persevered in doing during the whole period. 
 
 " Farewell."
 
 146 PHtlYGIA. 
 
 probably be put together again. A splendid frieze of 
 lions, in every attitude, with trees in the background, 
 cut in bold basso-rilievo, appears to have surrounded 
 the building. The proscenium is similar in form to 
 others that I have seen, and probably contained eques- 
 trian statues like those found at Herculaneum, as the 
 pedestals are still remaining ; the form was this : 
 
 1. The pedestals. 2. The doors in the proscenium. 3. A large 
 opening in the middle of the proscenium, commanding a splendid 
 view from the theatre along the stadium (No. 3. in the former plan) 
 to the city, with its Acropolis and many temples. 
 
 On either side of the stadium are the ranges of seats 
 for the spectators, rising one above the other (No. 4.), 
 forming an avenue for the view from the theatre. These 
 seats are raised upon fine stone arches, which served as 
 the entrances to the stadium. 
 
 There are still standing three bridges across the river 
 (No. 8.) which meandered through the city (No. 9.), its 
 banks having been lined with finely ornamented ma- 
 sonry. The subjects of the ornaments in the architec- 
 ture of the city, which are abundant, are taken from 
 sports and games. Panthers, lions, dogs, eagles, and 
 Bacchanalian figures are carved in the friezes. Among
 
 ^EZANI. 
 
 147 
 
 these are many fronts of tombs sculptured as doors, 
 with panels and devices, having inscriptions*. 
 
 I copied another inscription from a similar doorway. 
 nMIAMAPZYAMNHMHZXAPIN3,jyit 
 
 The following had formed part of a frieze over an en- 
 trance, probably of a temple. 
 
 KAIAPTEMIAIKAITOAH^J 
 
 Another was cut on the front of a pedestal, which now 
 
 * Perhaps, " Crito to his brother Julius Lucianus, in token of re- 
 membrance." 
 
 t " To Omias, son of Marsyas, in token of remembrance * * * " 
 I " And to Diana and * * * " 
 
 L 2
 
 148 PHRYGIA. 
 
 stands near a small building serving as the mosque for 
 the present inhabitants of the village. 
 
 KOYAP 
 
 OLKAICA 
 
 TOYPNEINOC 
 
 ONHCAAAA<kD 
 
 INHMHCXA 
 
 PIN* 
 
 Upon the top of this pedestal the muezzin ascends to 
 cry the hour of prayer, as from the minaret. 
 
 I saw no trace of the tombs or architecture of the 
 Christian age, nor of any walls or fortifications. From 
 the character of the architecture I should judge that 
 this had been a small town devoted to amusement; I 
 could not hear of any mineral or peculiar waters, or I 
 might have fancied it to have been a Cheltenham of the 
 ancients. I have seen no place so little plundered or 
 defaced by the people of after ages, and much informa- 
 tion might be gained here to interest the antiquarian. 
 
 At one o'clock we set out to return; and being our 
 own guides, and in a country without road and with so 
 few marked features, it was no easy matter to find the 
 way. The tracks through the woods are innumerable, 
 for the road is changed at each season as the swamps 
 become passable ; many of them are only the tracks of 
 the woodcutters. Steering by compass however we 
 took the right course, but the delay in climbing the hills 
 
 * " Quartus and Saturninus to their brother Onesas in token of 
 remembrance."
 
 COTY^IUM. 149 
 
 in this steeple-chase mode of travelling caused us to be 
 benighted. 
 
 Were I disposed to dwell upon personal annoyances, 
 I might here relate our ride of twenty-five miles against 
 a strong wind from the north-east, and getting tho- 
 roughly wet through with cold rain, which was suc- 
 ceeded by a heavy fall of 'snow : darkness came on, and 
 we were compelled for the last ten miles to trust our- 
 selves entirely to the guidance of our horses, being un- 
 able to distinguish the stones from the streams, many 
 of which wound down the steep craggy rocks over which 
 we were riding. In this manner we had to cross and 
 re-cross thickets and swamps. But it was in our favour 
 that our horses were approaching home ; and at last we 
 found to our great joy, that an object which in the 
 darkness we had fancied to be a curiously shaped rock, 
 was the wall of the citadel of Kootaya. As it was ten 
 o'clock when I arrived, wet through and miserably cold, 
 I asked to be allowed to undress and have tea by my- 
 self, instead of in the presence of eight or nine friends 
 of my host ; my request was granted, but one or two of 
 the sons were directed to remain with me, that I might 
 not be lonely. My servant told me afterwards that the 
 good gentleman was much hurt at rny request, attri- 
 buting it to my dislike to the society around him. 
 
 There is little to be said of Kootaya. Through its 
 streets run several rivulets, which carry away the re- 
 mains of animals, often a nuisance in Turkish towns : the 
 streets are wide, and the houses better built than usual.
 
 150 PHRYGIA. 
 
 Today I borrowed the only thermometer in the town 
 (the one I have with me not being of sufficiently exten- 
 sive scale) for the purpose of ascertaining the elevation 
 of this country. I find it to be great, as I judged from 
 the vegetation and climate it would be. The plain of 
 Kootaya is about six thousand feet above the sea, and 
 the hills we passed over on tiur way to ^Ezani are per- 
 haps two thousand feet higher. 
 
 At Kootaya I have been residing in the house of a 
 private gentleman, and have witnessed the manners of 
 his family. On my firman being presented to the Pasha, 
 he sent me to this house, the residence of the principal 
 merchant, an Armenian. He was from home at the time, 
 but I was put in possession of the place of honour, or 
 raised floor in the principal room, which was painted 
 like the coat of a harlequin, and surrounded with 
 cushions ; the floor being entirely covered with Turkey 
 carpets and Persian rugs, which gave the rooms an ap- 
 pearance both of comfort and wealth. This house may 
 be considered as a specimen of the house of a Turk 
 equally as of a Greek, both being of the same con- 
 struction. The family were numerous ; three of the 
 children of my host immediately surrounded me, one of 
 them, a little girl about six years old, very pretty, and 
 evidently the pet of the family : two sons afterwards 
 appeared, who were men thirty years of age. The little 
 girl told me many things, which, as she did not under- 
 stand English any more than I Turkish, it was in vain 
 for me to attempt to answer otherwise than by signs ;
 
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 h 
 
 fc
 
 COTYJ2IUM. 151 
 
 whereupon she very gravely left me, and going up to 
 my servant inquired if " Franky " had a tongue, for he 
 never spoke to her, although she had told him every- 
 thing. Refreshments were brought in, and shortly after 
 arrived the master of the house, a fine handsome man, 
 who saluted me with great respect, and regretted that I 
 had dined before he came home, but arranged that I 
 should take my meal with him the next day. In the 
 evening he had many visitors, and sent for a Neapolitan 
 quack doctor in compliment to me, saying that he spoke 
 European languages. The doctor and the other guests 
 sat until twelve o'clock : how often I wished them away, 
 that I might go to bed ! I did not know a word that was 
 said, but had to receive the compliments and farewells 
 of each guest, the purpose of whose visit was evidently 
 to see the European. My servant, who is at his request 
 called in the firman my dragoman, made himself very 
 entertaining, and was in consequence a welcome guest; 
 for the people are delighted to be talked to, and have 
 not the slightest idea of the luxury of being alone. 
 They are extremely sociable, and never read or write, 
 which renders them very dependent upon each other for 
 amusement. I longed to be alone, even in the den- 
 like rooms of a khan, that I might write, draw, and go 
 to bed; but this was impossible whilst every eye was 
 watching, although with the most refined politeness, 
 my slightest movement. If I was by chance left alone 
 for five minutes, an apology was made, or the children 
 sent in that I might not feel lonely. At breakfast two
 
 152 PHRYGIA. 
 
 of the sons watched every mouthful, until I literally 
 could hardly swallow my food; and all this attention 
 proceeded from politeness. I dislike this system of 
 being lodged with a private family under the authority 
 of a firman, and, having once availed myself of it, shall 
 return to my former custom of occupying empty houses 
 or khans, rather than be the forced and probably unwel- 
 come guest of a stranger, as I am here. 
 
 During my toilet I saw that the sons were watch- 
 ing every act, and anticipated every wish, except their 
 absence. I quite dreaded the t&e-a-t&e dinner with the 
 head of the house, neither of us understanding a single 
 word of each other's language. When the time arrived, 
 the father entered with his pet child, who was sent to 
 kiss my hand, or put it to her lips and forehead; the 
 father, respectfully saluting me, took his seat on the 
 opposite side of the tray, which was placed on a little 
 stool about six inches high. We each had a plate, 
 knife, fork, and spoon, the three former being seldom, 
 and then with great difficulty, used by my vis-a-vis. 
 When the soup, which stood in the middle, was un- 
 covered, my host, having arranged a napkin over his 
 breast and pulled up his sleeve, set the example of 
 dipping into the tureen, and then I did the same, wish- 
 ing that it was nearer to me. After each dish he saluted 
 me by passing his hand to his breast, mouth, and fore- 
 head, indicating the devotion of heart, lips, and head 
 to my service : the eldest son, who waited most humbly 
 upon us, watched my movements as closely as a dog ex-
 
 COTY^EIUM. 153 
 
 pecting its share of every mouthful. A dish of brain- 
 fritters succeeded ; chickens, birds (which we had shot), 
 pelaf, and sweets followed. When our formal meal was 
 over, the son brought a basin, having a false bottom 
 like an inverted colander, at the top of which lay a 
 
 piece of soap; also a water-ewer, and a towel hand- 
 somely embroidered with gold. The basin was first 
 presented to me, and the son continued to pour water 
 through my hands ; my host made a longer ceremony of 
 it. In the operation of washing is seen a strong in- 
 stance of the delicacy of this nation ; so great is their 
 horror of anything unclean, that by the contrivance 
 above referred to they avoid even the sight of the soiled 
 water, into which among other nations the hands are re- 
 peatedly dipped. In the fonts at the mosques the water 
 always trickles through the hands from the tap of a 
 cistern, thus avoiding the inconvenience of the former 
 mode, which requires the assistance of a servant in
 
 154 PHRYGIA. 
 
 washing the hands. After we had completed our meal, 
 two of the sons, the child, and my servant ate theirs 
 at the lower part of the room, attended by numerous 
 servants. The sons alone are privileged to wait upon 
 their father, filling his pipe, presenting his coffee, and 
 sitting looking at him for hours together ; and they 
 never all leave the room while he remains. A servant 
 seldom or never enters the apartment unless to attend 
 to the fire. 
 
 The cooking is excellent, and nothing objectionable 
 is met with in it ; no garlic of Italy, sour greens of 
 Germany, or unknown compounds of France. The 
 kymack is excellent here, and is fully an inch thick ; 
 I see it sold in the bazaars in plates, as our cream- 
 cheeses are, scantily scattered over with carraway seeds. 
 The bread is all good, but the common bread is peculiar 
 in appearance, being as thin and soft as a Derbyshire 
 oat-cake : meat, eggs, etc. are brought to table wrapped 
 up in it, in the manner in which fish is folded in a nap- 
 kin ; its taste is the same as that of the other bread, 
 being made of pure wh eaten flour. I observe that many 
 persons here form this bread into a kind of cone, which 
 serves as a spoon or fork in eating their almost liquid 
 food, thus keeping their fingers clean. 
 
 On Tuesday, March 27th, I left Kootaya for Altun- 
 tash. The road was toward the south, and very like 
 the one to JEzani, there being not the slightest change 
 in the nature of the soil or its produce. We passed 
 over various hills, descending frequently to cross a
 
 COTY.EIUM TO LAKE ASCANIA. 155 
 
 rapid river, whose course showed that we were gradu- 
 ally attaining a higher elevation ; and at thirty miles' 
 distance we entered the extensive plain in which the 
 few huts of Altuntash stand. This perfectly level plain 
 must be at least fifty miles long and twenty wide, and 
 these extensive flats occur perhaps six thousand feet 
 above the sea. The spring has not yet arrived ; a few 
 men are at work ploughing, but the country has at 
 present the appearance of the Downs at Brighton du- 
 ring the winter, there being not a tree to be seen. 
 
 Birds of endless variety, many of them unknown 
 to me in England, form the only objects of interest to 
 the traveller. I observed partridges with black heads, 
 wings and legs, brownish backs, and white breasts ; an- 
 other bird with a forked tail (probably the pratincole) ; 
 a species of plover, very different from the one common 
 with us, which also is here seen in myriads ; a little bird 
 with white body and black wings and head*; the red 
 duck, and flocks of geese, ducks, snipes, and other 
 water-fowl. I found here the common cuckoo at an 
 earlier season and in colder weather than it meets on 
 its visits to England. I counted a hundred and eighty 
 storks f fishing or feeding -in one small swampy place 
 not an acre in extent. The land here is used principally 
 for breeding and grazing cattle, which are to be seen in 
 herds of many hundreds. 
 
 The village of Altuntash consists of a number of large 
 
 * Muscicapa leuconotus, or White-backed Flycatcher. 
 t Ciconia alba.
 
 156 PHRYGIA. 
 
 flat-roofed huts and cattle-sheds, on the tops of which 
 are placed stacks of provender in the form of large 
 haycocks. The people sit and indeed spend much of 
 their time upon the tops of the buildings, probably on 
 account of the frequent floods and the dampness of the 
 ground, as well as because from this slight elevation they 
 can command a view of the whole plain with their herds 
 of cattle. Here I had the usual present of kymack, in 
 the middle of which was an excellent honeycomb. My 
 servant went out to shoot birds, and at breakfast-time 
 brought back six starlings for dinner, and three rare 
 birds, which he has since skinned for stuffing; among 
 them are the spur- winged plover* and a grey hawk. 
 
 March 28th. The road for thirty-six miles beyond 
 this village was only varied by being still more dreary ; 
 we have scarcely seen a single tree, and not a flower. 
 The stalks of last year's opium crops and the brown 
 grass covered the earth, partly concealing the stratum 
 of opaque agate-stone, which on some of the most ele- 
 vated parts of the hills varied to veins of a hard, burnt, 
 slaty substance. On entering the village of Sichanlee 
 all the walls are of grey scoria or lava, the same as I 
 observed near Lef ky and Oneoenoo ; here are also rocks 
 rising with crags, formed by the perpendicular strata, 
 such as I noticed on quitting the range of Olympus. I 
 am now on the range of Taurus. My route has hitherto 
 been directly across this table-land, entirely of volcanic 
 
 * Charadrius cristatus, or Crested Plover.
 
 COTY^IUM TO LAKE ASCANIA. 157 
 
 production, for above one hundred miles, besides travel- 
 ling thirty miles east, and as far west, without seeing its 
 bounds. Sichanlee is another village consisting only 
 of a few cattle-sheds, and has its plain of thirty miles 
 in width extending before it. 
 
 March 29th. Another day's ride of forty-four miles 
 has been still more dreary, with not a flower and scarcely 
 a tree in the whole distance. For the first ten miles I 
 passed a series of hills formed of a variety of loose 
 stones, principally of grey lava, then a long plain with 
 no vegetation at present springing, the land being used 
 only for rearing cattle and growing poppies for opium. 
 The town of Sandooklee stands at the end of a plain, 
 backed by the high and now snow-covered mountains of 
 the Taurus range. The branches of the chain which 
 have crossed our road are of a spurious kind of granite 
 very similar to that at Pergamus, which country also I 
 judged to be volcanic, after having seen it from the 
 range of mountains at the back of the city looking to- 
 wards the north-east. I have mentioned finding at Enae 
 many basaltic columns, and that the agates used in the 
 straw-cutting machines were brought from the neigh- 
 bourhood, or from the other side of the mountain, which 
 I know to be granite ; this may probably bring Ida also 
 into the range bounding to the north-west, the immense 
 tract of volcanic production. I shall be heartily glad 
 to leave it, and to reach a climate more genial both to 
 vegetable and animal life. 
 
 I am now writing in a room in Ballook, the most
 
 158 PHRYGIA. 
 
 dreary of villages. Tomorrow I shall descend, and ex- 
 pect to find a great difference in the season ; a month 
 ago the trees were bursting into leaf in the west country, 
 and above two months since at Syra the corn was be- 
 ginning to show the ear, whilst here they have only in a 
 few places now begun to plough and sow. 
 
 I am at this moment sitting at dinner, stared at by 
 fourteen Turks, all complimentary visitors, who have 
 watched every mouthful I have taken, and are now 
 secretly looking at and talking of me. I was so much 
 annoyed at Altuntash the night before last by this cus- 
 tom of the country, and by the repetition of it by the 
 people again appearing the next morning early with 
 cream and honey as an excuse for remaining to see me 
 dress, that I determined to put a stop to it, at the risk 
 of offending them, rather than have a number of men 
 waiting to see me turn out of my bed ; and I gave direc- 
 tions to my servant accordingly. On inquiring after- 
 wards how he had kept them out, I found that he had 
 represented me as unwell, and not able to bear the 
 talking ; and thus both I and my servant were left to 
 pursue our occupations undisturbed. These people are 
 so sociable that no one is ever alone, and I believe that 
 I must occasionally represent myself as an invalid, in 
 order to get time for writing and the other occupations 
 of a traveller. 
 
 March 30th, Catchiburloo (meaning Goat-country). 
 I have travelled another day thirty-six miles, and am 
 still in the mountains, having scarcely seen a tree the
 
 COTY^EIUM TO LAKE ASCANIA. 159 
 
 whole way ; the road lay over a series .of gentle hills and 
 long valleys bounded on either side by high mountains, 
 covered with snow, their summits of marble and of a 
 porous weather-beaten limestone, stratified and cavern- 
 ous. The long plain of Dumbari-ovasy (the Buffalo- 
 plain) has several villages along its line, placed on the 
 declivity of its bounding hills, and all known by the 
 general name of Dumbari ; we passed through one, and 
 I inquired for ruins, but none were to be heard of. I 
 rode to the burial-ground, as the best index of the 
 age of the neighbouring places, but no " old stones" 
 were to be found there. I noticed a number of newly- 
 formed graves, two then open ready for the dead; and 
 on turning round, saw assembled a multitude of people 
 advancing towards me; as they approached the graves 
 they paused to pray, setting down two biers. They pro- 
 bably formed the whole population of the place, per- 
 haps with the addition of friends from the neighbouring 
 villages. I soon learned that the plague had been some 
 time in the valley, and that the persons whose bodies 
 were now brought for burial had died that morning. 
 Hearing this I did not cross over to another village 
 opposite, although I understand several relics of an 
 ancient town exist there. The next burial-ground we 
 passed had also a long row of newly-formed graves. 
 The plague had visited Sandooklee, the town we had 
 passed at the head of the valley two months before ; 
 finding however, on my approach to this place (Cat- 
 chiburloo), that no case had occurred here for a month,
 
 PHRYGIA. 
 
 I have not thought it necessary to pitch my tent, allow- 
 ing my servant, who is rather an alarmist, to ride for- 
 ward and inquire into the state of the village. 
 
 Without discussing the causes of the disease, I will 
 notice the seasons and situations in which I meet with 
 it. The country I have passed is certainly from five to 
 six thousand feet above the sea, the first part of the 
 road being by no means damp or swampy. The whole 
 country is very thinly inhabited, and has at this season 
 no vegetation, for the winter is not yet over ; the ground 
 each morning is covered with white frost, and a sharp 
 easterly wind prevails. I have seen no part of Asia 
 Minor more cleanly, or where the streets are freer from 
 animal remains. The earth is a porous limestone, and 
 the water seems excellent everywhere. I have remarked 
 the bread for its peculiar goodness ; it is made wholly 
 of wheaten flour ; the pelaf is here, as in other parts, 
 the general food. On entering the first village, where I 
 found the plague raging, I noticed to my servant that I 
 thought it unlikely we should find ruins there, for the 
 houses appeared built in the fields, the streets had 
 spaces of grass, and each house was detached; the whole 
 village standing on the gentle slope of the hill, with no 
 rivers or water in sight. 
 
 While waiting for horses this morning, I climbed up 
 the rock in the town to see the lake anciently called 
 Ascania and its scenery, which is very beautiful. Whilst 
 contemplating the view, looking down upon the village 
 just under me, I saw twenty or thirty people assembled
 
 LAKE ASCANIA. 161 
 
 there. From a house near to the one I had occupied 
 they brought out a body and carried it to the grave. 
 They buried it without coffin, and I observed the body 
 bend when lowered into the grave ; this might have 
 been caused by the washing in warm water which took 
 place at the door of the house. The man had died in 
 the night, and I was not sorry to see our horses loading 
 and at the door, where I found my servant in great 
 alarm, and anxious to escape from the town. 
 
 M
 
 162 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 PISIDIA. 
 
 Journey to Sparta Reception of a Governor at his Province Ho- 
 nesty of the People Singular Pass of the Mountains Alaysodn 
 Ruins of Sagalassus Natural History. 
 
 MY maps are very incorrect as to the direction of the 
 lake and town of Boodoor. I noticed the surrounding 
 localities on my way to Sparta, which lay to the south- 
 east, over a range of limestone mountains variously 
 acted upon by volcanic heat ; some parts cracked into 
 small atoms, others split into slabs like flagstones, 
 having a wavy surface, as if caused by water, similar 
 to the stones in the Weald of Sussex : a great portion 
 is broken into flakes resembling slaked lime, and there 
 are many hills of sand ; washed stones also of all kinds, 
 with much volcanic production, are scattered around. 
 The valley of Sparta is beautiful compared with the 
 country through which I have lately passed ; the season 
 here is a degree forwarder, and the almond-trees are just 
 coming into bloom ; at Smyrna and on the western coast 
 two months since they were nearly out of blossom. No 
 other vegetation is yet bursting, but the walnuts and
 
 ROAD TO SAGALASSUS. 163 
 
 magnificent planes must be beautiful in their season. 
 I have been much annoyed by travelling in advance of 
 a Governor of this district, whose Tartar or courier has 
 just preceded me, securing thirty-four horses; and until 
 they were supplied I could not have mine ; but after a 
 few hours' delay I have always obtained them. On 
 entering this valley we found thirty or forty of the prin- 
 cipal inhabitants waiting the arrival of their new Go- 
 vernor, to escort him across the plain, about three miles, 
 to the town. Among- the group of full-dressed Turks 
 sitting on the ground, with their gaily-caparisoned 
 horses feeding by their sides, were about a hundred 
 young lambs and kids, which on the first appearance 
 of the cavalcade were to be slaughtered, and presented 
 to the Governor, each by its owner, with a view to se- 
 cure the favour of the new despot. 
 
 The town of Sparta is better built than any I have 
 before seen in this country, perhaps owing to the use 
 of stone in the construction of the houses ; but it is 
 the stone as washed down the hills, and not hewn ; and 
 an inner plastering of mud is added to fill up the cre- 
 vices. Many of the houses have large gardens filled with 
 trees, which give the town the appearance of a wood. 
 Streams of water run through most of the streets, and 
 the town being on the declivity of the mountain, there 
 are many mills erected upon them. I lodged about a 
 mile up one of these rivers, at the house of the owner 
 of a mill, a man of considerable property, quite a cha- 
 racter ; having been a slave some years in Moscow, he 
 
 M 2
 
 164 PISIDIA. 
 
 fancied he had seen all Europe, and that England and 
 France were parts of Russia ; indeed I find that this 
 people generally know no distinction between the va- 
 rious European nations. 
 
 Few traces of antiquity are found here : from a rich 
 Corinthian cornice I copied the following inscription, 
 which was evidently of a later date than the work of 
 the frieze. 
 
 VnePMNHMHeKAIANAHAVCeUEiriAVAoVEniKSAIOVANE 
 KTICENTONNAONTLJNAPXANrEALJNINASr * 
 
 I had great difficulty in obtaining horses, owing to 
 a Pasha passing through Sparta to Adalia; but after a 
 delay of three hours, by half-past nine o'clock I was 
 on my way to Alaysodn. I notice the following inci- 
 dent as illustrating the character of the people. About 
 three miles from the town my servant found that his 
 greatcoat had fallen from his horse ; riding back for 
 two miles, he saw a poor man bringing wood and char- 
 coal from the hills upon asses. On asking him if he 
 had seen the coat, he said that he had found it, and 
 had taken it to a water-mill on the road-side, having 
 shown it to all the persons he met, that they might 
 assist in finding its owner ; on offering him money, he 
 refused it, saying with great simplicity that the coat 
 
 * " For the commemoration and the repose of Paul Epicadius : he 
 built the temple of the Archangels." The last five letters may mean 
 the date.
 
 ROAD TO SAGALASSUS. 165 
 
 was not his, and that it was quite safe with the miller. 
 My servant then rode to the house of the miller, who 
 immediately gave it up, he also refusing to receive any 
 reward, and saying, that he should have hung it up at 
 the door, had he not been about to go down to the 
 town. The honesty perhaps may not be surprising, 
 but the refusal of money is certainly a trait of cha- 
 racter which has not been assigned to the Turks. 
 
 The road to Alaysoon was most singular. For eight 
 or nine miles it lay up the bed of the river, on each 
 side of which the mountains rose abruptly. The ravine 
 was at first monotonous, but afterwards assumed a bold 
 and highly interesting character : the rocks are gene- 
 rally of marble, and some of common limestone, with 
 veins of marble running through them in all directions ; 
 the whole of the mountains are stratified, and thrown 
 about in the wildest manner. But the most singular 
 features in this district are the mountains of volcanic 
 dust, which I saw at ten miles' distance, looking as if 
 they were smoking ; this appearance being caused by 
 the sand, which with every little wind is blown into 
 clouds, and carried into the air and along the valleys. 
 Out of these hills rise jagged points of marble rocks, 
 each of which forms a nucleus of the drifting sand. 
 This dust occasionally almost blinded us ; and I ob- 
 serve that the people ride with their faces covered with 
 handkerchiefs, or wait till the cloud of dust has passed. 
 The whole of this light sand or dust is tufa, the dust of 
 the pumice-stone, and a volcanic production ; the de-
 
 166 PISIDIA. 
 
 composed lime has in many parts mixed with this 
 tufa, and formed hills of Roman cement : perhaps na- 
 ture first suggested this invention to the Romans, and 
 we have learned it from their works. Pieces of pumice- 
 stone were united by this cement, so as to form cliffs 
 and cavernous rocks some hundred feet in height. It 
 seemed to me that there was here every variety of vol- 
 canic substance, from the white and light pumice-stone 
 to the metalliferous black basalt. The material of which 
 these sand-hills are composed is precisely the same as 
 that in which the city of Pompeii was buried. What 
 may not here lie beneath its drifts ! Many columns and 
 worked stones are rolled into the river which runs at 
 the base of these hills ; and there are several caves cut 
 with squared openings, only half-buried by the sand. 
 
 Though not a stranger to high mountain-passes, I 
 have never experienced such cutting cold nor so strong 
 a wind as in this pass of the Taurus range ; neither I 
 nor any of my men could ride, and we were obliged 
 occasionally to lie down until the gusts had ceased : 
 the very rocks of marble seemed cut by it, for they 
 stood in shivered points, through which the wind hissed 
 fiercely. We passed much snow, and were visited by a 
 storm of small pieces of ice, of broken forms and trans- 
 parent ; this was succeeded by beating rain and snow as 
 we descended towards the valley of Alaysoon, where in 
 two hours we arrived thoroughly drenched. However, 
 hearing of some ruins within a few miles, I risked the 
 repetition of the storm, and walked about three miles
 
 SAGALASSUS. 167 
 
 again up the mountain, through a craggy wilderness, 
 into which I feared the peasant took me only to see 
 some tombs cut in the rocks, as the situation appeared 
 too high and dreary for the living of any age. Tombs 
 we did pass, and then climbed up steep hills which were 
 covered with broken tiles, crockery of terra cotta, lamps, 
 jugs, pieces of glass, etc., but none of sufficient value 
 to be worth picking up. At length I saw many squared 
 stones which had been rolled down the hills, and above 
 me on all the overhanging rocks were the foundations of 
 walls. What was my surprise to find, on ascending, the 
 extensive remains of a superb city, containing seven or 
 eight temples, and three other long buildings, orna- 
 mented with cornices and columns, and with rows of 
 pedestals on either side ! I know not what these build- 
 ings may have been, but from their forming long ave- 
 nues I imagine they were agoras. 
 
 On the side of a higher hill is one of the most beau- 
 tiful and perfect theatres I ever saw or heard of; the 
 seats, and the greater part of the proscenium remain ; 
 the walls of the front have partly fallen, but the splendid 
 cornices and statuary are but little broken. I walked 
 almost round, in the arched lobby, entering as the people 
 did above two thousand years ago. Eight or nine ve- 
 nerable walnut-trees have done some damage, by heav- 
 ing up the seats. From its peculiar situation I judge 
 that this theatre was entered only on one side, where 
 appeared three or four vomitories together. The whole 
 of the city, with its costly tombs and its inscriptions,
 
 168 P1S1D1A. 
 
 both cut in the rocks and on the sarcophagi, is ancient 
 Greek, without a vestige of Roman or Christian cha- 
 racter. The helmet, shield, and lance, together with 
 masks and lions' heads, varied the ornaments of the 
 richly-worked Corinthian cornice. I observed in the 
 agoras many of the pedestals were six-sided. The 
 whole town was a pile of superb public buildings, ar- 
 ranged in excellent taste, both for seeing and being 
 seen; the ruins are, for so elevated a spot, extensive, 
 and in their mountainous situation are wildly grand. 
 The theatre faced the south. The town has no trace 
 of walls, but its tombs are to be seen carved in the 
 rocks for miles around, with much architectural orna- 
 ment. This must, I suppose, be the situation assigned 
 to the ancient Sagalassus ; it is now called by the Turks 
 Boodroom. 
 
 My guide kept earnestly begging that I would point 
 out the stones in which he should find gold, thinking 
 that I knew from my books where it was to be met with. 
 The people had spent much time and trouble in cutting 
 pedestals in pieces, imagining from their having inscrip- 
 tions that they contained treasure. They have in several 
 instances been fortunate, and I saw a split stone, which 
 from its form had probably been a kind of altar ; into 
 this they had cut, and, concealed in a hollow in the 
 centre, they had found, they said, much gold money. 
 There are in the village below some traces of founda- 
 tions, and many squared stones and handsome cornices, 
 and several fluted columns lie about the fields.
 
 SAGALASSUS. 169 
 
 I copied the following inscription from a pedestal : 
 
 AYPHAIONANTO 
 NEINONZEBAZ 
 
 jyiNIHBOYAH 
 JL60AHMOZ* 
 
 In the burial-grounds I saw some Christian columns; 
 and a large handsome trough in the town was also of 
 the same date, having two angels carved in the front. 
 A number of Byzantine coins have also been found in 
 the town. How much it is to be regretted that the in- 
 troduction of a Divine religion should have unneces- 
 sarily put to flight all the divinity of art ! The language 
 of Demetrius of Ephesus was prophetic. In architec- 
 ture and in sculpture the Cross is a brand always at- 
 tended by deformity in proportion, and total want of 
 simplicity in ornament. 
 
 April 1st. We left the valley of Alaysoon in a snow- 
 storm, which had covered the ground nearly a foot 
 deep ; and, after mounting a hill towards the south, 
 descended into another valley, in which no snow had 
 fallen, and where the wheat was six inches high, while 
 in the country through which we had passed it had not 
 even been sown. The mountains were also beginning 
 to be clothed with trees, but no bursting leaves yet be- 
 spoke a spring in this still elevated region. Another 
 valley succeeded, and the country became far more pic- 
 
 * This appears to be of the date of the emperor Aurelius Antoninus.
 
 170 PISIDIA. 
 
 turesque than any that we had passed through for many 
 weeks. The village of Sadecooe lay on our right. I 
 here first saw the common black crows of Europe ; also 
 many red ducks, and a white vulture* with black wing- 
 feathers : my servant shot one of the small black and 
 white birds which we had seen frequently in this moun- 
 tain region, the white-backed flycatcher. 
 
 * Neophron Percnopterus, or Egyptian Vulture.
 
 171 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 Arrival at Boqjak Visit to the Ruins of a splendid City, probably Selge 
 Beermargy Descent of the Taurus range Plains of Pamphylia 
 Adalia Visit to the Pasha Botany Excursion to ancient Cities, 
 probably Perge, Isionda, Pednelissus, Syllium, Side, and Aspendus 
 Return to Adalia Domestic manners of a Greek Family Departure. 
 
 AFTER travelling twenty-four miles to the south-east 
 we arrived at the village of Boojak. Leaving here my 
 baggage I started with a guide to visit some extensive 
 ruins, which I heard lay about ten miles towards the 
 north-east. The road was highly picturesque, travers- 
 ing pine-forests, and ascending the whole way, com- 
 manded views of various chains of mountains and their 
 cultivated valleys. After passing a rocky plain we en- 
 tered a wood or wilderness of shrubs, and suddenly 
 came to a cliff of the greatest perpendicular height 
 that I had ever looked over ; no description can give 
 an idea of the place. I was at the end of a ridge of 
 mountains of white marble, which terminate abruptly 
 in a deep and rich valley, with villages, of which Davre 
 appeared the largest, and having only one side acces-
 
 172 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 sible, the other three rising perpendicularly, perhaps a 
 thousand feet. 
 
 Upon this promontory stood one of the finest cities 
 that probably ever existed, now presenting magni- 
 ficent wrecks of grandeur. I rode for at least three 
 miles through a part of the city which was one pile 
 of temples, theatres, and buildings, vying with each 
 other in splendour ; the elevated site for such a city 
 is quite unaccountable to me. The material of these 
 ruins, like those near Alaysoon, had suffered much 
 from exposure to the elements, being grey with a lichen 
 which has eaten into the marble, and entirely destroyed 
 the surface and inscriptions ; but the scale, the simple 
 grandeur, and the uniform beauty of style bespoke its 
 date to be the early Greek. The sculptured cornices fre- 
 quently contain groups of figures fighting, wearing hel- 
 mets and body-armour, with shields and long spears ; 
 from the ill-proportioned figures and general appear- 
 ance, they must rank in date with the ^Egina marbles 
 now at Munich. The ruins are so thickly strewn that little 
 cultivation is practicable, but in the areas of theatres, 
 cellas of temples, and any space where a plough can be 
 used, the wheat is springing up. The general style of 
 the temples is Corinthian, but not so florid as in less 
 ancient towns. The tombs are scattered for a mile from 
 the town, and are of many kinds, some cut in chambers 
 in the face of the rock, others sarcophagi of the heaviest 
 form ; they have had inscriptions, and the ornaments 
 are almost all martial; several seats remain amongst
 
 SELGE. 
 
 the tombs. I can scarcely guess the number of temples 
 or columned buildings in the town, but I certainly traced 
 fifty or sixty; and in places where there were no remains 
 above the surface I frequently saw vast arched vaults, 
 similar to those forming the foundations of great public 
 buildings. Although apparently unnecessary for de- 
 fence, the town has had strong walls, partly built with 
 large stones in the Cyclopean mode. There is no trace 
 of any successors to the earliest occupants. I never 
 conceived so high an idea of the works of the ancients 
 as from my visit to this place, standing as it does in a 
 situation, as it were, above the world. 
 
 It is difficult to state the exact situation of the town 
 by reference to the present imperfect mass. A snowy 
 mountain, called by the Turks Dourraz, is due north. 
 Castledar lies west-south-west, Sparta is towards the 
 north-west. 
 
 On leaving Boojak we returned to the road at the 
 other end of the valley, and passed southward through 
 an opening in the mountains into another valley, and 
 afterwards a third, each somewhat forwarder in vegeta- 
 tion than the one preceding it. We were assailed by 
 children, who ran down from the tents in the mountain, 
 bringing bunches of flowers of an unsightly kind, but 
 with so sweet a scent, resembling that of a honeycomb, 
 that they are much esteemed by the Turks : they are 
 a species of the grape, or musk, hyacinth*. 
 
 * Muscari moschatum.
 
 174 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 At the end of twenty-four miles we arrived at BeeY- 
 margy, where we changed horses, having as usual a 
 dinner presented by the postmaster, consisting of soup, 
 pelaf, yohoot and sweets, while the horses were loading, 
 which is a rather tardy operation. From this place to 
 Adalia I found there were four ways ; I took one which 
 was circuitous, hearing that it led by some ruins, and a 
 picturesque pass through the mountains. The village 
 which would have been our halting-place was at this 
 season deserted, and the inhabitants were encamped 
 some miles below : being independent with my tent, I 
 determined to take this route and join their camp. 
 Here, as well as upon the highest of the mountains 
 near Sparta, I observed the tortoise pursuing its heavy 
 course across the road ; in this district it is of a larger 
 size than those at Troy. 
 
 After crossing the valley for perhaps four miles, we 
 suddenly entered a pass between the mountains, which 
 diminished in width until cliffs almost perpendicular 
 inclosed us on either side. The descent became so 
 abrupt that we were compelled to dismount and walk 
 for two hours, during which time we continued rapidly 
 descending an ancient paved road, formed principally of 
 the native marble rock, but which had been perfected 
 with large stones at a very remote age : the deep ruts of 
 chariot-wheels were apparent in many places. The road 
 is much worn by time; and the people of a later age, di- 
 verging from the track, have formed a road with stones 
 very inferior both in size and arrangement.
 
 TOMBS AT FAMPMVIL11A. 
 ,/afa, Murray, tendon,, 235 3
 
 SELGE TO ADALIA. 175 
 
 About half an hour before I reached the plain at the 
 foot of this mountain, a view burst upon me through the 
 cliffs, so far exceeding the usual beauty of nature as to 
 seem like the work of magic. I looked down from the 
 rocky steps of the throne of winter upon the rich and 
 verdant plain of summer, with the blue sea in the di- 
 stance, and on either side, like outstretched arms, ranges 
 of mountains bounding the bay of Pamphylia. This 
 splendid view passed like a dream ; for the continual 
 turns in the road, and the increasing richness of the 
 woods and vegetation, soon limited my view to a mere 
 foreground. Nor was this without its interest ; on each 
 projecting rock stood an ancient sarcophagus, and the 
 trees half concealed the lids and broken sculpture of 
 innumerable tombs. A colossal recumbent lion without 
 a head, probably having formed the top of some monu- 
 ment, and seats supported by the claws of lions, were 
 amongst the ruins ; in one or two places were small re- 
 mains of Cyclopean walls, perhaps only foundations to 
 perfect the natural rocks, so as to support the tombs 
 above. 
 
 Several columns of the Corinthian order were scat- 
 tered about ; but even from these I was unable to ascer- 
 tain the exact site of the city, which could not however 
 have been far distant from this spot. I should have 
 searched further, had I not anticipated finding the town 
 in the ruins below me, to which I w r as directed by my 
 guide ; but on my arrival I found that these were of little 
 interest, being slightly-built Venetian castles, with their
 
 176 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 peculiar three-pointed battlements ; these are at the en- 
 trance to the pass, and are similar to many others found 
 here, which formerly protected each of the entrances to 
 the interior through this range of mountains. As the 
 evening closed in we saw in the horizon a tent under a 
 tree, and by the flickering of lights in the neighbour- 
 hood and barking dogs, we knew that we approached 
 an encampment of the Yourooks, who, with the Tur- 
 comans, form the pastoral inhabitants of this country. 
 
 The larger tent was evidently that of the governor of 
 the village, who with his people moves with the seasons. 
 I rode up, and having asked his protection, pitched my 
 tent in front of his. Cream, bread, water, and fuel 
 were supplied to us ; and here, as everywhere else, the 
 greatest attention and hospitality were shown : I was 
 soon surrounded with all I needed, and now, for the 
 first time, am swinging in my hammock. 
 
 To describe the next scene I should need the talent of 
 Scott. Looking out from my tent at ten o'clock every- 
 thing was still and calm. The moon and stars had sup- 
 plied their cool light, the snow-topped mountains glit- 
 tered in contrast with the dark blue sky, and the horizon 
 was only broken by the grey shrubs and the tents of 
 the sleeping peasants. Around me lay my five horses 
 tethered, and carefully covered with tattered but gay- 
 coloured clothing ; immediately before me was a group 
 of seven Turks in full costume, each having a knife 
 and large ornamented pistols in his belt, sitting round 
 a blazing fire, on which my servant was preparing
 
 PLAINS OF PAMPHYLIA. 177 
 
 ray supper, discoursing at the same time to his won- 
 dering and attentive hearers. They were a most pictu- 
 resque party. Beyond them was the open, rude, black, 
 goats'-hair tent of the chief, supported by three poles, 
 and built up on each side with loose stones ; upon the 
 pole in front were hung his long gun and lance, or pole, 
 and by them stood a Turk as guard. Within, upon 
 carpets and cushions, lay the weather-beaten chief and 
 an attendant ; between them was a pan of burning char- 
 coal, the faint light of which shone on the wreathing 
 smoke from their pipes as it curled beneath the black 
 roof of the tent. The scanty service of a Turkish meal 
 glittered on the ground, indicating the finished repast; 
 the contrasted light, the costume, and the calm of the 
 whole scene, were more impressive than any descrip- 
 tion can represent. Notwithstanding its attractions 
 however, my supper being announced, and the evening 
 air cool, I soon hastened to my warm tent, and slept 
 until four or five o'clock, when a high cold wind from 
 the mountain reminded me of the advantage of more 
 solid walls than those of canvas. I was glad to put on 
 my warm dress, and to be again jogging on horseback. 
 The plain, which from above appeared so rich, I now 
 found to be uncultivated, a little herbage for a few 
 miles round the encampment being the only portion 
 suited even for depasturing the cattle. 
 
 I here witnessed the hunting of a stray ox. The man 
 pursuing, mounted on a swift horse, had a long pole 
 with a noose of cord at the end : after a chase of nearly
 
 178 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 two miles he succeeded in throwing the noose over the 
 head of the breathless beast, which fell panting on the 
 ground; the horse also seemed completely exhausted by 
 the chase. 
 
 The bare marble rocks soon appeared on the surface, 
 and for the next thirty miles, extending to Adalia, not 
 an acre of land is cultivated, the whole being bare rock 
 and stone, scarcely concealed by the small shrubs and 
 brushwood. Goats and camels alone find food, and they 
 are seen browsing over the whole distance. About mid- 
 way on the journey the ground had a hollow sound, 
 and I observed that it was occasionally composed of 
 masses of lime incrusting reeds, sticks, and vegetable 
 matter ; at first this appeared to be only in partial lines, 
 the native marble predominating, but the proportion in- 
 creased until the whole track was of this composition. 
 The vegetation now became varied, luxuriant flowers en- 
 livened the ground, and we had the season restored to 
 us which we left six weeks ago in the west. Rising 
 almost imperceptibly, we were soon on the edge of an 
 abrupt cliff of from two to three hundred feet high, 
 which was entirely formed of the deposit upon, or pe- 
 trifaction of, vegetable matter, and where the fir and 
 oak flourished luxuriantly. Descending by a zigzag 
 route to our former level, we found ourselves again upon 
 the marble, and passing over a plain. The climate was 
 delightful, but there was no soil to receive its bounties. 
 About fifteen miles before we arrived at Adalia (where I 
 now am) I saw a considerable river on our right hand,
 
 ADALIA 179 
 
 which we have not yet passed. The maps are very im- 
 perfect as to the rivers and towns here ; with regard to 
 roads we cannot expect any accurate information when, 
 as I have said before, the track varies with the state of 
 the weather. In a country where there are no roads 
 there are always many ways ; on this account a guide is 
 indispensable, even for a short journey. 
 
 April 3rd. Adalia, which is called by the Turks 
 Atolia, I prefer to any Turkish town that I have yet 
 visited; every house has its garden, and consequently 
 the town has the appearance of a wood, and of what ? 
 orange, lemon, fig, vine, and mulberry, all cultivated 
 with the artificial care of a town garden, and now in 
 fresh spring beauty. I see in the bazaar small green 
 almonds ; and among the fruit-trees barley is coming 
 into ear : this was the case two months ago at Syra, 
 which shows how greatly climate is influenced by local 
 causes. 
 
 My first visit was to the Governor, and greatly to my 
 annoyance he sent my servant (who had as usual pre- 
 sented the firman to ask a lodging) to request me to 
 walk up and take coffee with him, until a house was 
 appointed for me. As I could not avoid the interview, 
 I was compelled to present myself in my travelling- 
 dress, amidst all the servile attendants upon this eastern 
 court, and I alone (in my dirty boots) was admitted to 
 the raised floor. An European chair was placed for me, 
 and I was welcomed with pipe and coffee : the first I 
 ventured to refuse ; the latter, fearing to give offence, I 
 
 N 2
 
 180 PAMPIIYLIA. 
 
 reluctantly tasted. The servant, on approaching to take 
 the coffee-cup from me, when at arm's-length, placed 
 over it a beautifully embroidered napkin about six inches 
 square, worked with various colours mixed with gold ; 
 this was done to avoid the sight of any dregs that might 
 be left in the cup, one of the many customs which I 
 have noticed amongst this people indicating excessive 
 delicacy of manners. All who approached the Governor 
 kissed the ground at his feet, and saluted me in the 
 eastern form. I counted the minutes during which I 
 thus sat to be gazed at. But soon a person appeared, to 
 accompany me, and I was conducted to a perfect palace, 
 belonging to a Greek, whose riches far exceeded those of 
 the Pasha, and in which I have possession of a very large 
 room, surrounded with ottomans and cushions placed 
 against the walls. Here luxuries are indulged in to a 
 great extent, though the arts have not kept pace with 
 them ; while in our country luxuries tardily follow the 
 advances of art. The painting on the walls of my room 
 is a most ludicrous attempt at landscape and figures. 
 
 I had not been long in my apartment before I was 
 waited upon by two messengers from the Pasha, his 
 physician and a friend, who sat nearly two hours talking 
 Italian; they particularly requested that the Pasha might 
 have my card, and that I would call upon him during 
 my stay. I pleaded as an excuse that I had no proper 
 dress; but it would not avail, as the Pasha was, they 
 said, most anxious to pay attention to Europeans : he 
 had begged them to inquire if I had every comfort pro-
 
 ADALIA. 181 
 
 vided for me, adding, that if I had not, he desired I 
 should come to his palace. In the evening I received a 
 note from the Pasha, written in Italian, requesting an 
 audience, and naming three o'clock (Turk-time mean- 
 ing nine o'clock,) the following morning for the inter- 
 view. I would have sacrificed much to have avoided 
 the ceremony of this visit, but I could riot ; so I hastily 
 gave a verbal answer, saying that I would send a reply 
 in the morning, thinking it an invitation to a three 
 o'clock dinner. 
 
 April 4th. By eight o'clock in the morning (two 
 o'clock, Turkish time) the Doctor called again, to know 
 if I intended to accept the invitation of the Pasha, and 
 offering from him the use of his kitchen, as he feared I 
 might not like the food of the country. At nine o'clock 
 I went with Demetrius, who acted as my interpreter, and 
 was shown into the private house of the Pasha, who 
 was prepared to receive me. I spent two hours with 
 him in a very interesting manner. He is handsome, 
 and much such a moving spirit as the Sultan. His 
 name is Nedgib Pasha. It fortunately happened that 
 we had many subjects of interest in common, owing to 
 my having travelled at the same time with him through 
 the same line of country, for it was his cavalcade that 
 had required the supply of horses which had inconve- 
 nienced me on my journey. He seemed tolerably well 
 acquainted with the points of interest in the country as 
 to antiquities. I spoke of the great hospitality I had 
 received, and expressed my wish that, as the Turks
 
 182 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 imitated our costume, we should copy their kindness to 
 strangers. This pleased him, and he was evidently as 
 proud of the European character of his own costume and 
 those around him, as he was gratified by the compliment 
 to his country. We then spoke of the natural history of 
 the country, and he told me of the volcanic or burning 
 mountain near Adalia. On my mentioning how much 
 I had been interested by the peculiarities of the moun- 
 tains, he became all animation, and asked if I under- 
 stood minerals, and if I thought the country I had seen 
 contained any ; my slight geological knowledge served 
 me so well in replying to this inquiry, that the people 
 about him thought me a prophet. I told him that there 
 could be no coal in the country through which I had 
 passed, and that if found anywhere it would be above 
 the marble mountains, perhaps on those towards the 
 north-west, and not in pits as with us. This pleased 
 the Pasha, who gave a nod to one of his attendants, and 
 immediately servants appeared bearing baskets, pans, a 
 candle and stove, and one a lump of coal, which I for- 
 tunately recognised as English. The Pasha said that it 
 was so, and that he had brought it with him from Con- 
 stantinople. In each of the baskets was a piece of slaty 
 stone-coal, which he ordered to be put upon a fire, and 
 also burnt in a candle, that I might examine it ; and this 
 he said was found high in the mountains above the 
 marble, and just in the direction which I had suggested. 
 Then a piece of pyrites was shown me as a supposed 
 treasure ; I told him that this substance was with us
 
 ADALIA. 183 
 
 considered almost valueless, although used in some che- 
 mical manufactures, but that he would probably find 
 much more and perhaps better coal in the same neigh- 
 bourhood. Next was handed to me a large metal vase 
 containing some sand of decomposed granite. I picked 
 out the little crystallized quartz, but he directed my 
 attention to the shining particles of mica. I told him 
 whence he had obtained the granite, and what it was, 
 and suggested that the discovery of the coal would be 
 the most valuable ; he said they had so much wood 
 that coal would not be required by them, but that he 
 was extremely anxious to find iron or copper, and was 
 sure the country contained both. I said that the me- 
 tallic veins were so capricious that I could not ven- 
 ture an opinion, but that I hoped his researches might 
 prove as successful as his great undertaking of roads 
 through the country, which I understood he proposed to 
 carry to Constantinople. He then offered me a guard or 
 servants to travel with me, who would procure me more 
 comforts, and offered me introductions to other Pashas ; 
 but I was not about to visit the countries they governed. 
 He then insisted upon my using his stable, in which I 
 should find good horses, and asked my servant if it was 
 true that I had all I desired at the house where I was, 
 which was his banker's, adding, " Now do not tell 
 me a lie, for if you have not what you require, I will 
 send dinners and sweets from my own table." On my 
 thanking him, he expressed his hope that I would call 
 upon him again, and, instead of staying two days, would
 
 184 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 remain a mouth, assuring me that he would make me 
 comfortable. He rose from his seat and accompanied 
 me towards the door when I came away, which is quite 
 contrary to eastern etiquette, and Demetrius says he 
 never saw it done before by a Pasha. 
 
 I withdrew and rambled home, where I had not long 
 arrived before the Doctor was sent to offer to be my 
 cicerone in the town, which I declined ; preferring to 
 remain at home all day, resting and writing, and spend- 
 ing some time on a high stage erected at the top of the 
 house, from which there is a splendid view. With my 
 map I can study the whole line of coast of the bay. 
 The town around me is seen inclosed within a double 
 wall; but even here, in the centre, it has almost the 
 appearance of houses in pleasure-grounds rather than 
 of a town; perhaps the greater part is built without the 
 walls. Scarcely a ship rides in the ancient harbour, a 
 few boats occupying a port which has in early ages 
 contained its fleet ; the ruined towers still stand in this 
 clearest of water. 
 
 A curious effect is produced by strong springs of 
 fresh water rising in the sea at the distance of a few 
 yards from the shore, causing an appearance like that 
 seen on mixing syrup or spirit with water ; the sea being 
 so clear that the bursting of the fresh water from among 
 the stones at the bottom, although at a great depth, is 
 distinctly visible. I have already mentioned that the 
 country at the back of Adalia is composed for thirty or 
 forty miles of a mass of incrusted or petrified vegetable
 
 AD ALIA. 185 
 
 matter lying embosomed, as it were, in the side of the 
 high range of marble mountains, which must originally 
 have formed the coast of this country. As the streams, 
 and indeed large rivers, which flow from the mountains 
 enter the country formed of this porous mass, they al- 
 most wholly disappear beneath it ; a few little streams 
 only are kept on the surface by artificial means, for the 
 purpose of supplying aqueducts and mills, and being 
 carried along the plain fall over the cliffs into the sea. 
 One of these is supposed to have been the ancient 
 Cataractus. The course of the rivers beneath these 
 deposited plains is continued to their termination at a 
 short distance out at sea, where the waters of the rivers 
 rise abundantly all along the coast, sometimes at the 
 distance of a quarter of a mile from the shore. The 
 bottom of the sea beyond this deposit is of marble rock, 
 the foundation of the splendid range of the Taurus. 
 
 Friday, April 6th. I am detained here by the illness 
 of my servant, and am enjoying a rest in this delightful 
 climate. I find the town is small, but clean, and more 
 agreeable as a residence than any that I have before 
 seen in this country. The town stands on a cliff rising 
 sixty or eighty feet above the sea, which has no beach, 
 but breaks against the overhanging rocks ; these are 
 apparently formed of, or incrusted by, a stalactitic 
 deposit of lime. I have returned from a walk laden 
 with flowers, and I now inflict upon myself the penalty 
 of ignorance by drawing those with which I am un- 
 acquainted ; it is a severe one, for their varieties are
 
 186 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 numerous, many of them being hothouse plants in En- 
 gland*. Among them is a shrub in growth and leaf ex- 
 actly like the heath, and standing six or eight feet high, 
 but with the flower of the cistus f. A common shrub 
 here is a very pretty tree with a blossom resembling 
 the lemon treej. There is a great variety of the iris, 
 the most common being a luxuriant white one, gene- 
 rally with three very sweet-scented flowers on one stalk ; 
 there are also the orchis, and beautiful varieties of the 
 chickweed, and of the garlic, whose silvery flower 
 contrasts elegantly with the green around. The plants 
 found in this country must be indigenous, for none are 
 cultivated. I have not seen gardens, except in this 
 town, during my whole journey ; and here they are only 
 for the orange, fig, and vine, which are cultivated more 
 for the shade they afford to the seats beneath them than 
 for their beauty or fruit. The little land which is in 
 cultivation immediately around the town seems at this 
 season to teem with produce. I have seen here two 
 palm-trees, but they were pointed out to me as being 
 uncommon. I have given half a farthing for a sugar- 
 cane which was for sale in the market, with other ve- 
 getables grown in the immediate neighbourhood of the 
 town, for the whole cultivation lies within a mile of the 
 
 * The AnagalHs ccerulea, Gladiolus communis, Pyrethrum, Astraga- 
 lus, Salvia Horminum, Fumaria capreolata, Muscari comosum, Scilla 
 maritima, Muscari botryoides, and Ornithogalum umbellatum. 
 
 t Cistus Fumana. 
 
 J Styrax officinale, the Gum Storax.
 
 ADALIA. 187 
 
 walls ; it is most luxuriant, the climate being all that 
 could be wished : but beyond this limit soil is wanting. 
 The sugar-cane is grown here as a vegetable, and is 
 stewed by the Turks in many of their sweet dishes. 
 
 In the town of Adalia are numerous fragments of 
 ancient buildings, columns, inscriptions, and statues, 
 which are generally built into the walls of the town with 
 care and some taste. In the court-yard of the house in 
 which I resided there were eighteen wooden pillars sup- 
 porting the building above, and each of these had for 
 its base an inverted capital of a Corinthian column. 
 
 I was much pleased by witnessing the mode of life 
 and domestic happiness of one of the first persons 
 among the Greeks in this country. The master of the 
 family, my host, would rank as a gentleman in any 
 country, and his wife was very ladylike. I saw five 
 sons and two daughters, three men- and four maid- 
 servants, and two slaves, besides one servant provided 
 expressly to attend upon me. It was a strict fast with 
 them, and they expressed their regret that this prevented 
 them from inviting me to join their meals, but I had 
 my dinner from their kitchen at any hour that I wished. 
 The wife, who was very handsome, looked far too young 
 to be the mother of grown-up children. The dresses of 
 Europe would ill bear comparison with their unstudied 
 costume, which was beautiful in its negligence, each dress 
 differing from the others in taste, but all gaily coloured 
 and loose, falling in the natural folds of the drapery. 
 The use of starch or the smoothing-iron is unknown in
 
 188 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 the country. The display of wealth in the dresses may 
 in description appear ridiculous, but the effect was clas- 
 sical. The cap of the mother was formed of Turkish 
 gold coins, the intrinsic value of which must have been 
 at least 1 50; it partially covered the forehead and hung 
 down the sides of the face : the coins were arranged as 
 scales of fish or armour, and long chains or a neglige 
 of the same hung from the neck down to the waist with 
 a larger coin in the centre. The children had the same 
 display of rich ornaments ; even the one in arms had 
 almost a helmet of gold coins. 
 
 The two slaves, who formed part of the establishment, 
 had only arrived the day before, and were not yet ap- 
 pointed to their duties ; they were lying about all day 
 basking in the sun. The Doctor during one of his calls 
 asked if I wanted an Arab slave, as there were some 
 very cheap ones in the town for sale, telling me that 
 for 6 or 8 I might have a very handsome fellow. 
 On taking my departure, I found that in my bags had 
 been placed two or three large loaves of excellent house- 
 hold bread, baked expressly for me ; and indeed every 
 kind attention was paid me in so delicate a manner that 
 I am distressed to have no opportunity of making any 
 return for such hospitality. The obligation is painful 
 to me ; and to the surprise of Demetrius, who says that 
 the Turks are always glad to oblige Europeans, I have 
 persisted in preferring my former mode of rambling, to 
 travelling under an escort from the Pasha. I however 
 accepted the Pasha's firman, called aBe-u-tee, a written
 
 ADALIA. 189 
 
 order for all I may require, and with this we started 
 eastward at about ten o'clock. 
 
 It is impossible to find points at a distance from 
 which to see Adalia, as its walls hide it, and these are 
 completely concealed by its rich growth of trees ; but 
 the situation of the town is beautiful, a cliff, whose top 
 is an extensive plain, backed by another cliff at some 
 miles' distance ; and this has also its plain of many 
 miles, reaching to the foot of the mountains. These 
 cliffs much diminish the effect of the view of the moun- 
 tain range from the sea ; but in front of the town the 
 bay is bounded by the continued chain of mountains 
 which rise proudly from the sea. I have never seen 
 mountains so beautiful, so poetically beautiful. I re- 
 member seeing something of the same effect in those of 
 Carrara from the Spezia road, and again in Greece; and 
 in each case they were, as here, of marble. These 
 mountains have a craggy, broken form, and a grey sil- 
 very colour which gives them a delicacy of beauty quite 
 in contrast to the bold grandeur of the granite peaks of 
 Switzerland, or the rich beauty of the sandy rocks of 
 England. The mountains forming the western side of 
 the Gulf of Pamphylia rise from the sea until they are 
 piled up to the height of Mount Climax, whose summit 
 is now capped with snow. 
 
 Travelling due east over the plain, I saw nothing 
 remarkable except masses of gravel united by the 
 deposit of lime from the mountain streams, which fre- 
 quently formed rocks of pudding-stone on each side of
 
 190 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 the way. There were many wild-fowl of various kinds ; 
 the most striking were the ibis, and the black and the 
 white herons with their elegant necks and crests. There 
 were snipes, ducks, and water-fowl in hundreds along 
 our path ; we killed some, but are reserving our shot 
 and powder for rarer birds. Leeches are found in such 
 abundance in this neighbourhood, that they are an im- 
 portant article of trade to all parts of Europe, and still 
 more so to America. 
 
 The following imperfect inscription I found on a pe- 
 destal by the way- side near the spot supposed to have 
 been the site of Laara, about eight miles from Adalia. 
 
 0EMPX 
 ZIOY* 
 
 TPIAO 4>IAO 
 HATPI A 
 
 NIA 
 
 ONBOMOIHAI 
 IAF1EAEY0E 
 
 IKAIEYEHE 
 TH 
 
 Continuing my route for eight miles further, I 
 pitched my tent amidst the ruins of Perge ; near me 
 was a small encampment of shepherds, who had brought 
 their cattle to pasture amidst the ruins. The first object 
 that strikes the traveller on arriving here is the extreme
 
 PERGE. 191 
 
 beauty of the situation of the ancient town, lying be- 
 tween and upon the sides of two hills, with an extensive 
 valley in front, watered by the river Cestrus and backed 
 by the mountains of the Taurus. An arch, a kind of 
 castle, and the ruins of a temple, bespeak the vicinity 
 of the town about half a mile before arriving at its 
 walls. A few arches and ruins of many scattered tombs 
 lead to an immense and beautiful theatre, the seats of 
 which for the most part remain, rising very steeply 
 one above the other, whence the height is more than 
 in the usual proportion ; the width is about 330 feet. 
 Near the theatre is a stadium, or course for races, which 
 is quite perfect, with seats along each side and also 
 forming a circular end. This building is now used as 
 an inclosure for nursing camels. The adjoining town 
 is surrounded by walls and towers, some square and 
 
 others round, but the whole purely Greek, there being 
 no trace of any later inhabitants. An enormous build-
 
 192 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 ing, which can have been nothing but a palace of great 
 extent, forms a conspicuous feature. The Greek shield 
 is often seen introduced as an ornament on the walls, 
 not placed in the centre of the tower nor having a cor- 
 responding shield at each corner, but appearing as if 
 hung from the top *. Two or three temples may be 
 traced, but columns are not so abundant as in most of 
 the ruins which I have visited in this country; perhaps 
 they may have been removed. Some cornices and 
 sculpture which remain show the extreme richness of 
 the ornaments. 
 
 I observed one very singular feature here which puz- 
 zled me. On entering the town I noticed a wall, which 
 at first I thought was Cyclopean, but afterwards found 
 to be of rock or stone, without joints ; on following it, 
 there appeared in places some jointed stone wall, and to 
 my surprise I discovered that this had been an aqueduct, 
 and that the deposit from the water had formed a solid 
 mass or cast, from which the stone walls which had 
 formerly inclosed it had fallen away; in some places 
 these walls remained, but were entirely incrusted in the 
 deposit, which, having filled up the original water- 
 course, extended over its sides, covering the whole 
 structure, and giving the appearance of a solid stone 
 wall. In many water-courses in the town, I found 
 
 * In Ezekiel (chap, xxvii. ver. 11.) is the following passage, refer- 
 ring to the colonists of Tyre, from these parts : " They hanged 
 their shields upon thy walls round about ; they have made thy beauty 
 perfect."
 
 PERGE. 
 
 the arch of masonry inclosing a solid mass of the stone 
 formed by this deposit; and the earthen pipes which 
 were placed upright against the buildings, some of six 
 inches in diameter, were in many instances completely 
 filled up, or had an opening or bore left not larger than 
 a quill; these were probably rendered useless during the 
 existence of the town. The tombs are scattered about 
 for a considerable distance on each side of the city. 
 
 It was a beautiful moonlight night, and as I had un- 
 dertaken to call Demetrius an hour before daylight, that 
 he might find some ducks at their breakfast in a neigh- 
 bouring stream, I was somewhat restless, and thus ren- 
 dered conscious that it was a cold night. The howling 
 and barking of the jackals and wolves around my tent 
 lasted until daybreak. At seven o'clock Demetrius re- 
 turned with his bag of ducks and snipes, and at the 
 same time arrived a present from the neighbouring tents 
 of kymac, milk, eggs, and bread. After my meal I 
 narrowly escaped a tragical adventure. " Every bullet 
 has its billet ;" but none was yet billeted on me. 
 As I stood watching the busy scene of striking the 
 tent and packing the horses, I heard the report of a 
 gun, and on looking round saw within two yards of 
 me, and under the same tree, one of my hospitable 
 Turkish neighbours with Demetrius's gun, which had 
 been left hanging on the tree, in his hand, and with 
 alarm strongly depicted on his countenance. All Turks 
 understand the management of their own single-bar- 
 relled guns, but this was double-barrelled ; and after 
 
 o
 
 194 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 having carefully let down one lock, he thought he might 
 safely pull the trigger, and he had thus discharged the 
 other barrel. His alarm was natural, and mine would 
 have been as great had I been aware of my danger; the 
 charge entered the ground within half a yard of my feet, 
 where I saw the smoking wadding. 
 
 The scenery on leaving this town, and indeed during 
 the whole day, has been beautiful. About two miles on 
 the road we crossed by a ferry the very considerable 
 river Aksoo, the ancient Oestrus, which has cut a deep 
 bed in the rich soil of this valley. For ten miles we 
 travelled east- south-east through a garden of wild 
 shrubs, fruit-trees, and flowers, and then arrived at 
 an ancient city, which I judge from the maps may be 
 Isionda, standing upon, and up the side of, one of 
 the many isolated hills in this singular district. It is 
 entirely of Greek workmanship of a very early date, 
 many of the walls being Cyclopean. 
 
 Here is a striking instance of the skill shown by 
 the Greeks in making nature subservient to art. On 
 approaching the city is seen a long line of wall, partly 
 fallen, giving the appearance of strong fortifications 
 having existed ; but, on entering, it is found to be 
 the support of a range of seats, forming one side of 
 a long stadium ; the opposite seats being cut in the 
 rock, which rises from this theatre, the end of which is 
 circular, as at Perge. The whole side of the rock has 
 been built upon, and it requires close examination to 
 ascertain where the natural rock ends, and the co-
 
 ISIONDA. 
 
 195 
 
 lossal masonry begins. There are many strong walls 
 and towers, and several buildings which may have been 
 either palaces or temples, although but very few co- 
 lumns or ornamented friezes are visible. The summit 
 of the hill, which perhaps may be two miles in circum- 
 ference, was walled ; but I had not time to examine 
 this Acropolis. I was told that the whole surface was 
 strewn with fragments of columns, but that none were 
 standing ; the tombs are numerous, and are scattered 
 round the town for a mile in every direction. 
 
 In this town occurs the peculiar mode of building 
 the walls with apparently unwieldy stones ; but the 
 structure is more simple than it appears to be, consist- 
 ing alternately of narrow and broad courses, the former 
 being six or eight inches wide, the latter five or six feet, 
 and the whole put together without cement, the joints 
 being admirably squared. On examining the section, 
 I found that the construction was thus : 
 
 v 
 
 7 
 
 I remember to have seen in the west of England a fruit- 
 
 o2
 
 196 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 wall built upon the same principle, but with bricks, 
 how different the scale ! 
 
 Leaving this spot, which deserved more attention, we 
 journeyed south-east for twenty miles over a country 
 capable of producing anything, but with scarcely an 
 acre cultivated. For the greater part of the distance 
 the way was through woods, where the trees grow, 
 die, and fall unheeded. Nature in this beautiful cli- 
 mate has produced a wilderness of the richest trees, 
 shrubs, and climbing plants : I noticed seven or eight 
 different kinds of oak ; the delicate-leaved Judas-tree, 
 with its beautiful blossom ; the ash and carob ; and, 
 more abundant than any, the Siberian crab, with a 
 great variety of the clematis and rose acacia ; all in- 
 tertwined with the vine and fig, so that it was difficult 
 to distinguish the stem which supported the rich clus- 
 ter. The last year's fruit hung ungathered on most 
 of the trees, or lay decayed beneath them, the whole 
 district being used only for the browsing of camels 
 and goats. The myrtles were prodigious bushes ; I 
 measured several which covered a circle forty feet in 
 diameter, the stem being as thick as my body. In no 
 country have I ever seen or heard such multitudes of 
 birds. The nightingales in the evening were almost an 
 annoyance. 
 
 April 9th. This morning at an early hour I 
 mounted the cliff overhanging the modern village of 
 Bolcascooe, where I had slept, to examine the exten- 
 sive and heavy-looking ruins which broke the horizon
 
 PEDNELISSUS. 197 
 
 when I arrived by moonlight yesterday evening. I 
 found them extending over the whole crown of the 
 hill, and partially down its sides, but their style is of 
 a base age compared with the remains which I have 
 lately seen. The scale is vast, but there is an absence 
 of that most beautiful of all qualities simplicity. Some 
 of the cornices are elaborately rich, and of Greek work- 
 manship ; but arch rising above arch, niche above 
 niche, and column supporting coluum, plainly indicate 
 the influence of the Romans. The remains of an aque- 
 duct several stories high show whence the city derived 
 its water. On the summit of the hill are many ruins 
 of unhewn stone, massed together with cement, the 
 arches being of brick, and the interior walls coated 
 with stucco, which has in some instances been co- 
 vered with plates of thin marble, and in others painted 
 with red patterns in a rude style, 
 
 A kind of stadium forms a leading feature upon this 
 Acropolis, more particularly from its having an im- 
 mensely high screen or square wall at the end, which 
 has been ornamented in front with a rich projecting 
 marble cornice, a colonnade with a balcony above, and 
 niches, the plaster of which yet retains its colouring 
 of beautiful light blue. The panels of the ceiling in 
 this colonnade still remain, and are ornamented with 
 various devices of dolphins and sea-shells. Having 
 seldom seen any specimen of the ceilings of ancient 
 buildings I copied one of the many still to be seen in 
 this place. There are very few columns remaining;
 
 198 
 
 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 indeed, so generally were they formed of brick and 
 plaster that I should doubt whether there have been 
 at any age many of marble. 
 
 On the east side of the hill is a theatre, highly in- 
 teresting from being in so excellent a state of preser- 
 vation ; but the architecture, particularly of the exte- 
 rior, is in the worst taste. It resembles a large factory, 
 from the number of square niches in the walls of its 
 proscenium. Over each of the entrances in the front 
 are long inscriptions, but the sun shone so strongly 
 upon them, and they were so high up, that I could not 
 see to copy them. They are partly concealed by a 
 brick arch, probably an after-thought or addition of 
 the architect. From the form of the letters, although 
 Greek, I judge that the whole town must have been 
 built after the conquest of the nation by the Romans, 
 and after their adoption, not only of the bad taste of 
 their conquerors, but also in part of their letters. I 
 observed the S and V in Roman letters. On the top
 
 PEDNELISSUS. 199 
 
 of the exterior are still entire the stone sockets for 
 holding the poles which supported a screen or co- 
 vering over the upper seats, as is seen in the Coli- 
 seum at Rome. In the lobby are brackets with in- 
 scriptions, but the statues which stood upon them 
 have been removed. The remains of the inside of this 
 theatre are far the most perfect of the kind that I 
 have seen; indeed, the whole might be now used for its 
 original purpose. The proscenium is very richly orna- 
 mented with niches, and a balcony or portico, all of the 
 most elaborate designs in white marble; the ornaments 
 are heads, masks, dolphins, flowers, and various ani- 
 mals. The eagle, in attitude like the Roman eagle, is 
 several times introduced. The seats remain almost 
 perfect, as well as the lobbies and galleries leading to 
 them. The walls of the proscenium and sides of the 
 theatre have been coloured, and still retain a common 
 red pattern upon the white plaster marked out by 
 black lines in a zigzag form ; the niches have remains 
 of a beautiful light blue upon their walls ; the masks 
 also retain their colouring. Around the top of the 
 back seats of the theatre is a series of arches, which 
 spring from ornamental circular brick columns, plas- 
 tered over. The whole of the seats and steps, the floor 
 of the area, together with the side doorways, and the 
 lobbies and apartments to which they lead, are quite 
 perfect. The other buildings in the city are all of the 
 same date and style. Tn the situation of this town the 
 maps place Pednelissus.
 
 200 
 
 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 April 9th. Resuming my travels through a country 
 of the same description, I found in a wood on the side 
 of a rocky hill two towers, and the remains of a third, 
 elegantly built in pure Greek taste, as well as many 
 scattered columns, which probably mark the town of 
 Syllium. The towers, like those of Perge, were in 
 the same style as those seen in Italy built during the 
 middle ages ; they have had pediments, and these 
 have had their statues, which generally have been 
 injured or destroyed : but the stones at the corners, 
 and the fragments below, show that they have been 
 placed there. 
 
 Continuing our route through this rich wilderness, 
 we arrived at Legelahcooe, which was about an hour's
 
 SIDE. 201 
 
 distance from Manavgat, the post village, on one side, 
 and Side, or Esky-Atalia, on the other; the ruins of 
 the latter being my attraction. 
 
 I have sent a man off for corn for the horses, and am 
 now sitting in my tent, surrounded by camels, goats, 
 and cows, the care of the inhabitants of a few tents 
 near me ; their fires are blazing, and these, with the 
 light of a full moon, and the various rustic noises of 
 the shepherd's pipe, camels' tinkling bells, frogs croak- 
 ing, nightingales singing in the trees, and owls hooting 
 from the ruins, and now and then a burst of alarm 
 from all the watch-dogs at the approach of jackals or 
 wolves, give a peculiar effect to the scene ; while the 
 open sea before and the splendid mountains behind, 
 render the scene as picturesque as it is wildly inter- 
 esting. In front of the tent Demetrius is engaged in 
 cooking, whilst I am within writing, and enjoying all 
 the independence of this Arab life. My pelaf of kid 
 and a brace of wood-pigeons are brought in with some 
 potatos, which we obtained at Constantinople ; and on 
 my finding fault with them as compared with those of 
 England, I am informed that they come from England, 
 the root not being yet grown in this country. 
 
 The water-jug universally used in the mountainous 
 district, and which is always presented for me to drink 
 from when sitting on my horse, is of primitive con- 
 struction, and much resembles in form many specimens 
 which I have seen in ancient terra cotta; it is carved 
 out of the section of a tree or single block of wood.
 
 202 
 
 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 There is a side pipe, which is used for drinking, and 
 another centre pipe, larger, which, by a reversed incli- 
 
 nation of the vessel, is used for pouring out the water 
 more rapidly, the drinking-pipe admitting the air to 
 supply the place of the fluid poured off. The heat of 
 the sun sometimes causing cracks in this wider spout, 
 iron rings are added to repair it; occasionally there is 
 left on the opposite side of the vessel, perhaps for orna- 
 ment, to match the drinking-pipe, a solid piece of the 
 wood. In these various forms the Etruscan vase may 
 be plainly recognised ; which was the original, I venture 
 not to decide. A shallow wooden bowl is often used 
 as a cup, into which a portion of the water is poured; 
 and as this is presented by a Greek female, with the
 
 SIDE. 203 
 
 vase in her hand, I can give it no other name than 
 the patera of the ancients. 
 
 April 10th. I this morning paid a visit of some 
 hours to the ruins of Side, which were about a mile 
 from the spot where my tent was pitched last night ; 
 they are far inferior in scale, date, and age to any I 
 have before seen ; the Greek style is scarcely to be 
 traced in any of the ruins, but the Roman is visible in 
 every part; in few buildings, except the theatre, are 
 the stones even hewn, the cement being wholly trusted 
 to for their support. The walls are very slight, and of 
 a period late in Roman history ; but few columns or 
 traces of temples remain. I found a piece of a cor- 
 nice, or tablet, with a small galley carved in a rude 
 style upon it. The theatre has been fine, but is now in 
 ruin, except the seats, which are in tolerable preserva- 
 tion. The whole of the area and lower parts being 
 filled with a wood of trees, it is difficult to judge of the 
 size, but I should think it smaller than three or four 
 which I have seen within the last few weeks. There 
 being no village near, nor any cultivation of the ground 
 in the neighbourhood, the hidden relics and coins will 
 remain for future times to discover. The rambling 
 dwellers in tents could of course give me no informa- 
 tion, except that lime was obtained there. I found 
 several kilns, which are supplied from the cornices and 
 capitals of columns, these parts being the whitest and 
 the most easily broken up. The glowing colours in 
 which this town is described in the " Modern Tra-
 
 204 PAMPHYL1A. 
 
 veller," as quoted from Captain Beaufort's admirable 
 survey, show how essential it is to know upon what 
 standard a description is formed. It would have given 
 Captain Beaufort much pleasure to have gone inland 
 for a few miles, and to have seen theatres and towns 
 in perfect preservation as compared with Side, and of 
 so much finer architecture. From the account which 
 he gives I was led to expect that this would form the 
 climax of the many cities of Asia Minor, but I found 
 its remains among the least interesting. 
 
 Returning towards Adalia I have varied the road 
 slightly, but the features of the country continue much 
 the same. The author to whom I have just referred 
 speaks of this coast as being flat, sandy, and dreary; 
 my description of a few 'miles inland would be remark- 
 ably the reverse of this, for I never was in a richer, 
 and at the same time more picturesque country, inde- 
 pendently of the interest of its remains. The tourist 
 whose observations are made from his yacht a com- 
 mon mode of visiting Asia Minor, can see little. 
 What opinion even of England could be formed from 
 a survey of its coast ? What resemblance is there in 
 the bare downs of Brighton to the wooded Warwick- 
 shire or the varied beauties of Derbyshire ? 
 
 On reaching the noble river Eurymedon we fell again 
 into the track by which we had come, crossing the 
 bridge we had before passed. The maps are all so 
 extremely incorrect that I am unable to trace my situa- 
 tion upon them. Having sought in vain for a consi-
 
 FROM SIDE TO ADALIA. 205 
 
 derable lake in them, which is laid down as extending 
 from this river to the Oestrus, I have no definite clue 
 by which to discover the ruins of Aspendus. Arrow- 
 smith's map places the modern village of Starus upon 
 the site of Aspendus; but no remains of antiquity are 
 to be heard of in the neighbourhood. 
 
 About five miles nearer to Adalia, having crossed the 
 Cestrus, we travelled for nearly ten miles amidst hewn 
 rocks, sometimes apparently forming tombs, but more 
 frequently being the quarries whence building materials 
 have been obtained. This ground must have been in the 
 vicinity of a large city, but not even a squared stone is 
 to be found. Last evening my tent was pitched at what 
 is called par excellence " the village," originally standing 
 on the bank of a small lake near the river Kaprisoo ; 
 but this lake is now a wilderness of reeds and occupied 
 by water-fowl. Here we shot a woodpecker, and saw a 
 beautiful variety of the jay or roller, of which I have 
 kept a specimen; we also put up a jackal. The village 
 consists of houses, five in number, with walls of wicker- 
 work lined in the inside with mud, and with roofs 
 of reeds. On looking around for a chimney, I saw 
 that the moon was shining through the upper part of 
 the walls, the mud lining only extending about three 
 feet from the ground, though the walls were perhaps 
 five in height ; the ground was richly carpeted, and 
 luxurious cushions were placed on either side, at least 
 this was the case in the hut owned by the Aga, or prin- 
 cipal man, in which I might have claimed a lodging ;
 
 206 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 but 1 pitched my tent at his door, and made his house 
 my kitchen and servants' hall. Here was the usual 
 assemblage of persons tendering their rural fare. The 
 kymac was somewhat different from that I had before 
 tasted, and was excellent ; it had not been allowed time 
 to form a solid scum or crust, but had been broken 
 up and mixed with the sugar of the grape, forming a 
 more agreeable cream than I ever tasted at a London 
 rout. 
 
 It is impossible for an equestrian traveller to learn 
 more of the entomology of a country than an extremely 
 superficial knowledge of the varieties of species. There 
 were many butterflies already on the wing which are 
 strangers to northern Europe, and some of the trans- 
 parent-winged kinds. The insect commonly known 
 in English port-towns by the name of cockroach or 
 black beetle, and said to have been brought from the 
 West Indies, is found here, as is also the bug, which 
 has been considered by us to have come from Ame- 
 rica in the timber. I see on the trees a great va- 
 riety of the cimex, and one or two kinds of dragon- 
 fly that I do not know in England. Vermin is cer- 
 tainly not so abundant in the houses of the Turks as in 
 most parts of southern Europe ; indeed the people are 
 more cleanly than other nations in similar climates. 
 The chameleon and tortoise are frequently seen basking 
 on the rocks. 
 
 The people in the district of this country south of 
 the Taurus are in the peculiar state of having no settled
 
 FROM SIDE TO ADALIA. 207 
 
 residence, and their manners take their character from 
 this mode of life. I have not seen a village, or even a 
 mosque except in the city of Adalia, the people all 
 living in tents ; and from this circumstance they are 
 less capable of paying the prompt attention to the 
 rites of hospitality which I have met with elsewhere, 
 although they have the same hospitable disposition. 
 Here the firman has lost its power, and I seldom 
 mention it. The only difficulty however that I have 
 had is in obtaining corn for the horses, which generally 
 have to fare like the cattle of the district and eat grass. 
 I have authority to demand corn, but living in their 
 tents, the peasants do not require it, and at this season 
 they have none for their own horses. Barley is the 
 only corn grown for the horses in Asia Minor ; I have 
 never seen oats in the country. 
 
 April 12 th. When I returned to my hospitable en- 
 tertainer at Adalia, his family were all going to their 
 church, but they bade me welcome, and I felt myself 
 at home again. The house gave every proof of the 
 goodness of its inhabitants. In a bakehouse were five 
 large tubs of flour, sufficient to furnish bread for a 
 barrack, in process of being made into loaves, which 
 were, according to the custom at this season (Passion- 
 week), to be given away to the poor, a practice fol- 
 lowed in this house to a great extent. Seeing in one of 
 the numerous store-rooms the large stocks of oranges, 
 lemons, dried fruits, seeds, and corn of various kinds, I 
 was half disposed to think my host kept a bazaar ; but
 
 208 PAMPHYLIA. 
 
 these were his provident winter stores still unexhausted. 
 Over my door was an ornament formed of palm leaves, 
 which for this week were placed conspicuously in all 
 Greek houses. Some little children dressed up were 
 acting the portion of the life of our Saviour which 
 is commemorated at this season. The Greek Church 
 still dates by the old style ; therefore this, as well as 
 all other festivals, is kept by them twelve days later 
 than the date in our calendar. 
 
 April \3th. On returning from a walk of four hours 
 I saw passing my room door ten or twelve visitors, 
 among whom were several priests, and was astonished 
 and afflicted to hear that one of the children of my 
 host, who was well when I left the house, had died 
 in a choking fit, and was actually buried ; the persons 
 whom I had noticed were friends come to offer conso- 
 lation. The family were in such great affliction that I 
 at once ordered my baggage to the boat, and set out 
 on my voyage to Tekrova.
 
 209 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 LYCIA. 
 
 Voyage to Phaselis Olympus Phineka Bay State of the Peasantry 
 Passage of the Mountains to Antiphellus Ruins of Patara City 
 of Xanthus Inscriptions and curious Sculpture Tombs Cottage 
 Ancient Customs preserved Explore the Valley of the Xanthus 
 Ancient City of Tlos Greek Superstitions Horses of the country 
 Macry, the ancient Telmessus Curious Tombs cut in the rocks. 
 
 April \3th. IT is Friday ; on Friday I attempted to 
 leave England, but in vain, owing to a storm ; on 
 Friday I had a wretched voyage on the sea of Mar- 
 mora ; on Friday I packed to leave Constantinople, but 
 was obliged to remain ; and now on the same day of 
 the week, at six o'clock in the evening, I am sitting in 
 my boat in the harbour of Adalia waiting for the be-u- 
 tee, or local firman, from the Pasha; it was to meet 
 me on the opposite side of the port, about two hundred 
 yards from the place whence I started, but the boatmen 
 say they dare not go further, and my Friday's voyage is 
 at an end. 
 
 Saturday, April ]4th. The sun having set, the city 
 gates were closed, and I therefore had to sleep in the 
 
 p
 
 210 LYCIA. 
 
 guard-room. This morning at three o'clock I was fairly 
 afloat. 
 
 The boat is well built, and has the picturesque latteen 
 sails ; the crew are four Arabs, speaking a language 
 
 wholly Arabic, which appears made up of r's, a's, and 
 h's, very guttural and peculiar ; the name of Hassan 
 reminded me of Eastern tales. As sailors these men 
 are very well in a fair wind, or when once out at sea, 
 but they were arrant cowards. 
 
 I never was at sea without forming a resolution in 
 future to travel by land, and still necessity sometimes 
 sends me on the water. My motives for so doing at 
 this time were various ; first to avoid, without giving 
 offence, the presents and suite of attendants offered
 
 PHASELIS. 211 
 
 by the kind Pasha ; in the next place the Governor 
 represented the track by the mountains as almost im- 
 passable with baggage-horses, the usual route when the 
 weather was calm being along the sea-shore ; again, I 
 had intended to put in at each point of interest along 
 the coast, and also to save several days in time. These 
 reasons combined made me forget my objection to tra- 
 velling by sea ; but I never become insensible to the 
 monotony of a voyage, as compared with other travel, 
 and continually long for its termination. 
 
 In five hours, before eight o'clock in the morning, 
 we were at Tekrova, the ancient Phaselis. I landed, 
 and at once saw the remains of this ancient port. In 
 the same degree in which the ruins of the cities in the 
 interior have raised my conception of the grandeur, 
 both in scale, design, and execution, of the works of 
 the ancients, the vestiges of their ports and harbours 
 diminish my idea of their naval strength or skill. The 
 harbour and town of Phaselis are both extremely well 
 built and interesting, but very small ; its theatre, sta- 
 dium, and temples may all be traced, and its numerous 
 tombs on the hills show how long it must have existed. 
 
 The following inscription was over a doorway*. 
 
 PXHEPEYZ EP ZTOZAH jyfAiHZEZOYZIAZ 
 IOTAYTOAHOPTOI PYJfx^OZTOJAI H N El HZ 
 
 TATHPTATACXJJ 
 
 I observed several buildings constructed of highly 
 
 * Apparently erected by one of the Emperors.
 
 212 
 
 LYCIA. 
 
 ornamented materials ; this fragment of an inscription 
 exhibits a specimen*. 
 
 The harbour is good, and the situation of the place, 
 at the foot of a lofty range of mountains, is highly pic- 
 turesque. After a ramble of a few hours I returned to 
 my boat, and desired to sail to Deliktash, the ancient 
 Olympus ; but the men said they were afraid from the 
 appearance of the sky that there might be wind in the 
 evening, and that they must wait until after midnight 
 for the land breeze, which was the safest. We there- 
 fore lay in the harbour the whole day and night, until 
 past two o'clock the following morning ; we then ven- 
 tured to sail to the port of Olympus, which we reached 
 in three hours. This town is upon a still smaller scale. 
 I speak of the traces of the Greek town only, as several 
 of the surrounding hills are covered with the slightly 
 built walls and houses in ruins left by the Venetians. 
 
 * An inscription from the people of Phaselis in honour of the Em- 
 peror Adrian, grandson of Trajan (?), Proconsul (?).
 
 OLYMPUS. 213 
 
 The form of the Greek letters in many of the inscrip- 
 tions is not of the very early date, But there are evi- 
 dent traces of the town having existed through many 
 changes. One of its temples has been on a grand 
 scale : I copied the annexed inscription from a pedestal 
 at present standing in its doorway. 
 
 AYTOKPATOPAKAI 
 
 CAPAMAPKONAYPZ 
 
 AIONANTWNENON 
 
 EEBACTONAPMEN 
 
 AKONMHAIKONFIAP 
 
 IKONfEPMANIKON 
 
 OAYNHHNWNHBOY 
 
 AHKAIOAHMOE 
 
 ErAWPEAEHAN 
 
 TAfAGOYAlE* 
 
 The following was upon a portion of a stone which 
 had formed the top of a doorway. 
 
 TOHPnON <NAOKPATOYZ 
 AYTON HEIZI0EAHKAI 
 TaOYZI AN EXETilZAN AYt 
 
 * " The Council and the People of the Olympians [commemorate] 
 the autocrat Caesar, Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, August, Armenian, 
 Median, Parthian, Germanic, ****** i n consequence of a * * 
 kind gift * * twice." 
 
 t This appears to be a part of an inscription over the doorway of the 
 family mausoleum of Philocrates, with probably a licence for his suc- 
 cessors to use the same tomb.
 
 214 LYCIA. 
 
 Sailing round the bold rocky promontory and islands 
 to the fine hay of Phineka, we again cast anchor, and 
 I landed on the modern walls of a ruined fort. The 
 objects that first struck me were the number of palm- 
 trees which here grow wild ; the leaves are luxuriant, 
 but the trees are not very high. After searching near- 
 ly an hour for a trace of human beings, we found an 
 old man and boy, who had hidden themselves from 
 fear. After much explanation of our pacific intentions, 
 the old man gave us the information we required as to 
 the situation of the town, and then made his escape to 
 his tent on the mountain. 
 
 Walking for two miles by the side of the river, which 
 wound its way through a swampy meadow, we arrived 
 at a town consisting of two or three houses, described 
 to us as the Custom-house, the Governor's house, and 
 some other official buildings ; their erection here being 
 accounted for by the circumstance that this is a navi- 
 gable river, the only one I have yet seen on the coast 
 of Lycia. Here for the first time I saw symptoms of 
 trade ; a few stacks of firewood being prepared to be 
 put into two rowing boats, the whole craft of the place. 
 All this coast is now, as of old, famed for its unctuous 
 woods, and the Turkish name of the district expresses 
 this quality. 
 
 Two miles across the little valley, at the foot of the 
 mountains and up their sides, lay the ruins of the an- 
 cient Limyra, its theatre, temples, and walls. As the 
 evening drew on I was again in my boat ; but the timid
 
 MOUNT PHCENICUS. 215 
 
 sailors were afraid to venture to sea until past mid- 
 night, and after sailing for an hour the anchor was 
 again cast in a perfectly land-locked harbour round the 
 headland to the west ; and to my surprise and annoy- 
 ance I was told that, although it was but five o'clock in 
 the morning, we must lie at anchor and wait for the next 
 night's breeze, as there was rain in the clouds, and 
 there might be a change of wind ; these expectations 
 were in part realized, and for twelve hours we lay ex- 
 posed to beating rain and a cold easterly wind. 
 
 At the end of a long rainy day, we went on shore in 
 the evening in search of inhabitants, and to endeavour 
 to obtain provisions, for no birds came within our reach 
 from the boat. After following the sound of a flock of 
 goats for two miles through the woods, and in vain seek- 
 ing the goatherds, who had hidden themselves among 
 the rocks through fear, we at last found some tents ; 
 and after much peace-offering, and hanging the gun on 
 a tree at a distance and sitting down to smoke, some 
 boys appeared, and through them we communicated to 
 the women who were in the tents our wish to buy a kid. 
 It required some management to satisfy them that I 
 was not come to carry away the boys for soldiers, or to 
 seize upon the flocks, which until lately the pirates had 
 been accustomed to do without tendering any recom- 
 pense ; at last I threw down some money, to them a 
 large sum,, and this was irresistible ; it was equal to 
 eighteen pence, and was to be the price of two fine 
 kids. Sitting down to the meal they offered us of
 
 216 LYCIA. 
 
 honey, bread, and youghoot, we were soon surrounded 
 by a number of wondering children, and I saw the 
 stained finger-nails and broad gold bracelets, or fetters, 
 on the waving arms of the energetic females, who were 
 giving directions through the thorns forming the walls 
 of the tents as to the kids which were to be sacrificed 
 to satisfy our hunger. The people through the whole 
 of this district are in a very wild state ; but still the 
 natural, or at all events religiously habitual, character 
 of hospitality is prominent ; perhaps fear may be the 
 next leading feature. The greatest favour that you can 
 grant them, and one which if they dare they generally 
 request, is the gift of a little gunpowder ; my usual 
 present is two or three charges, which they tie up with 
 great care in the folds of the turban. From this part of 
 the dress I have frequently seen unfolded a little paper 
 of snuff, or perhaps their money, or any valued relic. 
 
 Here for the first time I observed that the mountains 
 contained fossil shells, the nummulite being most com- 
 mon ; in the rocks were also large masses of long and 
 clear crystals radiating from a centre. The upper parts 
 of the mountains consisted of masses of chips of the 
 same marble as the rocks, and among them many 
 rounded pieces, the whole held strongly together by a 
 matrix of lime. On the shore were the decaying stems 
 of trees much perforated by the teredo, many of its 
 tubes being nearly a foot long. 
 
 April I7th.We again put out to sea at three o'clock 
 in the morning, and arrived by eleven at the little port
 
 FROM LIMYRA TO ANTIPHELLUS. 217 
 
 of Kakava, where I determined to change my mode 
 of travelling for one less tedious and affording more 
 amusement. The coast we had passed presented from 
 the sea a barren appearance, and even the outline was 
 monotonous in its grandeur. One peculiar feature in 
 the voyage was the effect of the extremely clear water 
 over the white marble rocks, which here form the 
 bottom of the sea. Upon these rocks I saw the sea- 
 plants standing at a great depth, spread out and 
 motionless, and the whole watery world was thickly 
 inhabited by a great variety of shell-fish ; thus was I 
 permitted, as it were, to visit this kingdom of the deep 
 with its crystal atmosphere. 
 
 The name Kakava applies to the whole of this di- 
 strict, including several islands ; I believe that it sig- 
 nifies Partridge Country, and this bird is here very 
 abundant. I bought of some peasants at this place a 
 hive of excellent honey for about fifteen pence ; it 
 weighed nearly six pounds. We encamped in the ruins 
 of one of the churches of the early Christians ; and with 
 our clothes, tent, birds' skins and bedding spread in 
 the sun to dry, two fires burning to cook the meat, the 
 boatmen first killing and then cooking our meal, we 
 formed quite a busy group, which excited the attention 
 of the peasantry, who came to share and contribute to 
 our encampment and repast. On the arrival of the 
 horses, for which we had sent to some tents six miles 
 further in the country, I was rejoiced to renew my 
 travels on terra firma, and discharged the boatmen,
 
 218 LYCIA. 
 
 paying for the whole voyage to Mais, for the comple- 
 tion of which I should probably have had to wait many 
 days for favourable winds, although the distance by 
 land is but a ten hours' journey. I had no sooner 
 resumed my land travels than objects of interest ap- 
 peared: around me were nameless ruins, extending 
 over a mile of coast, and containing numerous cisterns 
 or granaries, ruined buildings, and massy tombs, telling 
 of former extent, and marking their age as about that 
 of the Christian sera. Among the plants found here is 
 a species of clematis, which I noticed as an ornament in 
 architecture peculiar to this neighbourhood ; its leaves 
 are elegantly formed, and shine like ivy, and it has 
 thorns*. The vetch seen here is also peculiar f. 
 
 On the wild crags of the rocky mountains to the 
 north were many strong, heavy sarcophagi of the ancient 
 inhabitants, which had nevertheless been pillaged; the 
 number of tombs, compared with the size of the ruined 
 towns, would appear quite unaccountable, were it not 
 remembered that they are as imperishable in material 
 as in construction, and that they record not a single 
 generation of the living, but many successive genera- 
 tions of the dead. Ascending for an hour we arrived 
 on a cliff overlooking a beautiful valley of rich corn- 
 fields, which appeared as a garden amidst the barren, 
 craggy mountains around. This singular effect was in- 
 creased by the rocks rising high and perpendicularly 
 
 * Smilax aspera. t Hippocrepis cornosa.
 
 ftfc 
 
 TOMBS AT AW Tir ME 1,1, ITS.
 
 ANTIPHELLUS. 219 
 
 from the valley, which was a perfect level, suggesting 
 to the mind, what in all probability at no very remote 
 period it was, a lake, whose deposit now bears green 
 waving corn. Crossing this valley, in which were the 
 tents whence we obtained our excellent horses, we 
 again continued the ascent of the mountains for two 
 hours, until the evening overtook us, when we pitched 
 our tent as near as we were permitted to those of the 
 timid peasants. Several times we were about to place 
 it, assisted and advised by the owner of the neigh- 
 bouring tent, when a voice of higher authority from the 
 interior caused us to remove further, to be out of sight 
 of her and her children ; a bush or tree was a sufficient 
 barrier, but without some screen the women would have 
 been almost prisoners while we were near. 
 
 April 18th. This morning we continued the ascent 
 for two hours, and, after passing some richly wooded ra- 
 vines, we rapidly descended upon the singularly beauti- 
 ful but wild and barren neighbourhood of Antiphellus, 
 an active little trading harbour for firewood, containing 
 two or three houses for official persons, and one or 
 two boats to communicate with the important island of 
 Castellorizzo, a few miles from the shore. The ancient 
 town of Antiphellus stood on a finely situated pro- 
 montory, which still presents a theatre, foundations of 
 temples, and other buildings ; but the chief objects of 
 interest in the place are the tombs, which are very 
 numerous, and of the largest kind that I have seen. 
 The rocks for miles round are strewn with their frag-
 
 220 LYCIA. 
 
 ments, and many hundreds are still standing apparently 
 unopened ; but the greater number have been pillaged 
 during the two thousand years which have elapsed 
 since their construction: they have all Greek inscrip- 
 tions, but these are generally much destroyed by the 
 damp sea air, which has eaten away the surface of the 
 marble. The cliff overhanging the town is also full of 
 tombs, cut into its face, many being highly ornamented 
 with architectural designs. The form of the sarcopha- 
 gus found here is peculiar to the district of Lycia. The 
 shape of the lid or top somewhat resembles the pointed 
 Gothic arch. The tombs cut in the rock have some 
 resemblance to the windows of the Elizabethan age, 
 with their stone mullions. It is remarkable that all 
 the tombs cut out of the face of the rock, of which the 
 one represented in the annexed plate is a specimen, are 
 in exact imitation of buildings of wood, the joints re- 
 presenting wedged ties or dovetails, and the overhanging 
 cornices being formed like the ends of beams of round 
 trees, producing a picturesque architectural ornament. 
 
 At two o'clock we were again ascending many thou- 
 sand feet above the very striking coast, forming with 
 its islands, bays, and promontories a perfect map, but 
 differing materially, I am sorry to say, from any map 
 that I have with me, as the following incident will 
 show. When I was at Adalia, taking Arrowsmith's map, 
 which is the best, for my guide, I hired a boat to Meis, 
 the only place of that name mentioned in any of the 
 maps or guide-books, and marked as the port of Macry,
 
 -^ - 
 
 

 
 VALLEY OF THE XANTHUS. 221 
 
 the town I sought ; but to my surprise I find that the 
 important island and town now under me are called by 
 all people here Turks, Greeks, and Arabs Mais (Euro- 
 peans call it Castello Rosso, or Castellorizzo) ; and this 
 Mais, the most important place on the coast, the resi- 
 dence of European consuls, is more than one hundred 
 miles to the south of the only Meis given in the maps. 
 Travelling very slowly up the mountain I was soon 
 again in my tent, in a winterly climate : not a leaf had 
 yet appeared, the corn was but a few inches above the 
 ground, and the almond-trees just bursting into bloom. 
 
 April 19th. At five o'clock in the morning the wind 
 almost carried away the tent ; but we were the sooner 
 on our way, and for eight hours travelled over the sum- 
 mits of the high mountains. Even here we frequently 
 found massy tombs crowning the pinnacles of rocks, 
 and innumerable chambers for tombs hollowed out of 
 their hard sides, many having beautiful architectural 
 designs cut in the rock, and others with the entrances 
 most ingeniously concealed. 
 
 The geological character of the country varied little. 
 The higher region contained more of the masses of 
 conglomerate than that below, in great part composed 
 of rolled stones. During the highest wind that I ever 
 experienced, blowing from the south-east, we con- 
 tinued our way, and for many hours were descending 
 rapidly and more steeply than roads could be cut ; we 
 walked much of the way, the horses leaping from step 
 to step down the rocks. The cliffs of the deep ravines
 
 222 LYCIA. 
 
 were now of a softer limestone, affording better nourish- 
 ment to vegetation ; and we were again in a summer 
 climate, although the leaves and branches were strip- 
 ped off, and even the trees themselves torn up as we 
 passed along by the tremendous gusts of wind. The 
 sea, of which we had a fine view to the north-west, was 
 broken up into waves, and the rocks on the coast were 
 hidden by the clouds of spray. In the afternoon we 
 arrived at the village of Fornas, about six miles from 
 the coast, and nearly on the level of the sea, and hence 
 we walked over the hills to visit the ruins of Patara. 
 About a mile from the acropolis we entered the valley, 
 and, as we descended, the tombs surrounded us on every 
 side. They appear from their form and innumerable 
 inscriptions to be all Greek, but not of a fine age. 
 
 TOH POON KATEZKEYAZEN 
 M AYPI AZflN I AZONOZAflZI 
 OYAHATAI EYZEAYTOKNI 
 THZXMBinAYTOYMKIAAYP 
 AlWirrHKAiriTOAEMflMAN 
 niTOMHAENAE I EPONTE9H 
 NAIHO4>EIAEZBITOIZKATAXeO 
 NIOIZ0EOIZAIKAIA* 
 
 * " M. Aur. Jason, son of Jason Dosias, the citizen of Patara, pre- 
 pared this mausoleum for himself and his consort, and [their daughter] 
 Aphiote, and [her husband] Polemo, with a view to this, that no other 
 should be deposited there, or he shall owe what is just to the infernal 
 gods."
 
 PATARA. 223 
 
 Proceeding up a valley, apparently formed by a lake, 
 we traced the remains of many small temples in the 
 masses of ruins, though little more than the founda- 
 tions, or at most the cellas, are standing ; from one of 
 these three statues had just been dug out, and sent off 
 to Europe. The following inscription was on the pe- 
 destal of one of them. 
 
 KOINTOE AIKINNIOEEAEY 
 
 0EPOEPHMAI EZflDMOAT 
 
 TAAOYnATAPEITeNRATE 
 
 PAMOYKAIAIKINinOMEfl 
 
 LIMONTONAAEA<J>OMMeY 
 
 KAIAIABOYAII1MHTPI 
 
 MNHM CENEKEN* 
 
 A triple arch leads hence to the city, and the brackets 
 upon it for busts or statues have Greek inscriptions ; 
 it is not in pure taste. Several ruins of large Chris- 
 tian churches are here seen in massy piles of stones, 
 the materials of former temples. The theatre is, as 
 usual, excavated from the hill sheltering it from the 
 sea; but the quantity of sand brought down by the 
 river Xanthus, and by the almost continual eddies of 
 wind occasioned by the high mountains of the Cragus 
 range, have formed banks of sand along the coast, which 
 is drifted over the walls of the theatre, so that the area 
 
 * " Quintus Licinnius, a Roman citizen ; to Zosimus, son of Atta- 
 lus, of Patara (my father, and the father of Licinnius ; Zosimus my bro- 
 ther) ; and to Diabulius my mother, for the sake of remembrance."
 
 224 LYCIA. 
 
 of it is more than half filled up, and the whole, with 
 many other ruins, will soon he entirely buried and left 
 for future ages to disinter. The harbour is now rich 
 with the vegetation of shrubs, and many fine clusters 
 of palm-trees. 
 
 The city has been extensive, but the buildings are 
 for the most part constructed of fragments of earlier 
 ages, when symmetry of form was better understood ; 
 no building of the early Greek age remains entire. The 
 river Xanthus lies to the north of the city, with the 
 once splendid bay, which is now a desert of moving 
 sand, only marked by the silvery course of the river 
 winding its way to the sea. Colonel Leake and other 
 writers having mentioned that the valley of the Xanthus 
 has not been explored by Europeans, and that cities 
 may probably be traced near its course, I have deter- 
 mined to seek a route to Macry up this valley, instead 
 of by sea or across the range of Cragus. 
 
 April 20th. On starting this morning from Fornas 
 we for the first time had to take asses for our bag- 
 gage, and these were procured with difficulty. For 
 eight miles to the north-east we first skirted, and 
 then crossed, a perfectly flat plain, without a stone 
 upon it, no doubt formerly a bay of the sea ; the accu- 
 mulated sand has rendered it partially fit for cultiva- 
 tion, although the greater portion is still a morass ; on 
 the drier part pasturage is afforded for numerous herds 
 of cattle. I saw thousands of snipes, whose numbers 
 we diminished for our larder ; and these being of a
 
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 AE (>AI> O- Jt If TPE 
 
 /* A
 
 XANTHUS. 225 
 
 different kind to the common one in England, I have 
 added one to my collection of skins. It was noon 
 before we had found the Governor of the tents which 
 form the frontier village of Koonik, when taking the 
 riding horses, we started to see the ruins of the city of 
 Xanthus, which lay at about two miles' distance, upon 
 or overhanging the river of that name. The other 
 horses were to wait our return. We had no sooner 
 entered the place of tombs, than objects of such high 
 interest to the antiquarian, sculptor, and artist ap- 
 peared, that I determined to send for the baggage, 
 and pitch my tent here for the night. 
 
 April 19th. It is now noon, and I regret that I have 
 not had time, and do not possess sufficient talent, to 
 examine completely the objects here, which alone af- 
 ford inducement to the man of taste to visit this 
 country, even from distant England. The remains ap- 
 pear to be all of the same date, and that a very early 
 one. The walls are many of them Cyclopean. The lan- 
 guage of the innumerable and very perfect inscriptions 
 is like the Phoenician or Etruscan, and the beautiful 
 tombs in the rocks, on the side of the entrance of 
 one of which is the following inscription, are also of 
 a very early date. 
 
 Note to annexed Plate of Inscriptions. 
 
 Very learned and ingenious papers have been read upon these 
 Lycian inscriptions, before the Royal Society of Literature in Fe- 
 bruary, and before the Philological Society of London in April, 1839, 
 by James Yates, Esq., M.A., F.R.S., &c. 
 
 Q
 
 226 
 
 LYCIA. 
 
 I/gf : V 
 
 At:triMfME 
 
 The annexed plate shows the character of the tombs ; 
 they are wholly cut into, or formed by cutting away, 
 the rock, leaving the tombs standing like works of 
 sculpture. 
 
 In the ruins there are many parallelisms to the Per- 
 sepolitan, as may be seen in this entrance of a tomb.
 
 XANTIIUS. 227 
 
 The elegant designs evince the talent of the Greeks, 
 and the highly poetical subjects of the bas-reliefs, the 
 temples, friezes, and tombs, some of them blending in 
 one figure the forms of many, probably to describe its 
 attributes, are also of Greek character. The ruins are 
 wholly of temples, tombs, triumphal arches, walls, and 
 a theatre. The site is extremely romantic, upon beau- 
 tiful hills ; some crowned with rocks, others rising 
 perpendicularly from the river, which is seen winding 
 its way down from the woody uplands, while beyond in 
 the extreme distance are the snowy mountains in which 
 it rises. On the west the view is bounded by the 
 picturesquely formed but bare range of Mount Cragus, 
 and on the east by the mountain chain extending to 
 Patara. A rich plain, with its meandering river, car- 
 ries the eye to the horizon of the sea towards the 
 south-west. 
 
 The city has not the appearance of having been very 
 large, but its remains show that it was highly orna- 
 mented, particularly the tombs, two of which I have 
 put in my sketch-book somewhat in detail, as well as 
 some other sculptures. I did not find any well-formed 
 Greek letters ; in an inscription over a gateway, and 
 on one or two architectural stones, the Greek alphabet 
 was used, but not the pure letters. There is no trace 
 of the Roman or the Christian age, and yet there are 
 points, such as the costume in the bas-relief, the attitude 
 and appearance of groups of figures, that reminded me 
 of the times of the Crusades and of the Romans. 
 
 Q2
 
 228 LYCIA. 
 
 I have attempted a sketch of the most beautiful of 
 the tombs, and I add the description by pen to make 
 my drawing more intelligible. It is a sarcophagus, en- 
 tirely of white marble, standing on the side of a hill 
 rich with wild shrubs, the distant mountains, of the 
 silvery grey peculiar to marble rocks, forming the back- 
 ground. Being finely worked, the polish has greatly 
 assisted in its preservation from the effect of the at- 
 mosphere. The roof is somewhat grey, and the frac- 
 tures of the lower parts are tinged with the shade of 
 red which white marble assumes after long exposure 
 to the weather, and in places with yellow blended with 
 brown. On the top, or hog's-mane, is a hunting 
 scene ; some figures are running, others are on horse- 
 back galloping, with spears in their hands and mantles 
 blown by the wind, chasing the stag and wild boar, 
 which has turned to attack the pursuer ; the whole of 
 the figures, although in a small frieze, are well formed 
 and finished. On each of the sloping sides of the roof 
 are two stones projecting about a foot, as found on all 
 these tombs, but which upon this are carved into lions' 
 heads crouching on their paws ; upon one side of the 
 roof is a group in which a warrior, carrying a shield, 
 is in the act of stepping into his chariot, which is of 
 the early simple form, with wheels of four spokes 
 only, and is driven by a man leaning forward, with his 
 arms stretched out holding the reins and a whip or 
 goad : four beautifully formed horses, prancing in va- 
 rious attitudes, are drawing the car. The chariot and
 
 . 
 ,?.$.".
 
 XANTHUS. 229 
 
 horses appear sculptured on the other side of the roof, 
 differing only in the attitudes of the figures. In the 
 upper panels at the ends or gables are traces of small 
 carved figures, On the side of the tomb shown in the 
 annexed sketch, under two lines of the peculiar cha- 
 racters of this town, (perhaps Lycian,) is a group of 
 figures, which I will describe, beginning from the left- 
 hand. A finely-formed figure in a simple robe, his 
 hands folded before him, and with a head of bushy 
 hair, stands, as if in attendance behind the chair or 
 clawed seat of the principal figure, who, clothed in 
 rich folded drapery, with short hair, sits in the atti- 
 tude of a judge, with one arm somewhat raised; be- 
 fore him stand four figures : the first is mutilated, but 
 appears similar to the second, who has long bushy 
 hair, confined round the head, and looking like a 
 \vig ; his attitude is that of a counsellor pleading for 
 the others ; the loose robe falls gracefully from one 
 shoulder, and is thrown over, so as almost to conceal 
 one arm ; two other figures, differing only in having the 
 hair shorter and the arms hanging down, stand appa- 
 rently waiting the decision of the judge, and complete 
 the well-formed group. At the end, on a larger scale, 
 are two figures of warriors, clothed only with girdles 
 of armour round their loins, and petticoats reaching 
 nearly down to their knees, resembling the figures of 
 the ancient Britons. The background on the same 
 stone contains a long, but, from mutilation, partially 
 illegible inscription, which I did not attempt to copy.
 
 230 
 
 LYCIA. 
 
 On the opposite end of the tomb are two other figures 
 of the same size ; one, clothed in a loose robe, stands 
 in a commanding attitude fronting the spectator, with 
 an arm raised over the head of a naked figure also 
 standing. Were this marble found elsewhere, the 
 group might be taken to represent the baptism of our 
 Saviour, but the character of the figures does not 
 support this idea, although the attitudes would be pre- 
 cisely correct for the ceremony. 
 
 On the other side, under a single line of inscrip- 
 tion, is an animated battle-scene ; men on horses are 
 fighting with others on foot ; all have helmets, and 
 
 those on foot have shields ; some fight naked, others 
 with a loose shirt or blouse descending below the 
 thighs, and confined by a belt round the waist. The 
 horse of the principal figure is ornamented with a 
 plume, and the rider has a kind of armour to protect 
 his legs. The groups upon the two sides are three 
 feet six inches high, by nine feet in length. I have
 
 <t < 
 
 f I
 
 XANTHUS. 231 
 
 not described the architectural form, leaving that to 
 be gathered from the sketch. 
 
 The hog's-mane does not at either end extend to the 
 full length of the roof ; and at each extremity of it is a 
 
 niche for attaching another stone. It is probable that 
 there may have been at each end, when the tomb was 
 perfect, some ornament, perhaps a helmet, or figure of 
 an animal corresponding in character with the other 
 subjects. It is not surprising that so beautiful a tomb 
 should have been broken open in all parts ; but as 
 each chamber is now exposed, I trust that it may not 
 receive further injury. 
 
 Upon another tomb, or high square pedestal, near 
 the theatre at Xanthus, are some curious bas-reliefs, 
 which, to assist the imperfect representation given by 
 my drawing, I will describe. On the north and south 
 sides are four figures of similar design ; the head is 
 that of a female with the Greek cap and hair, the 
 breast is exposed, and the body, which terminates 
 with the trunk, has wings and a tail like a pigeon's ; 
 from under the wings comes a bird's claw, clasping 
 the legs of a child which is carried in the bosom of
 
 232 LYCIA. 
 
 the figure : the child appears to have wings wrapt 
 over its body, or this may perhaps be folded dra- 
 pery. The figures are all flying from the centre of 
 each group and upwards. In the middle of the south 
 side, seated on an elegant Greek chair, is a small 
 figure wearing a loose robe, with a long stick rest- 
 ing on his shoulder and two balls or fruit in his 
 hands. A female figure draped, but much mutilated, 
 is presenting a pigeon held by its wings. In the 
 middle of the north side is an old man, with a pecu- 
 liarly pointed beard, seated on a stool, under which is 
 a pig ; he also has loose drapery, and a stick resting 
 against his shoulder and held in his hand : before him 
 is the figure of a warrior delivering up his armour ; in 
 one hand he holds the helmet, in the other a mantle. 
 On the east side an old man is seated in a chair like 
 the one on the north side ; he has one hand raised, 
 holding what appears to be a small bird towards his 
 face, and before him a child is presenting a cock ; be- 
 hind the child is a male figure and a dog tied with a 
 string; behind the chair of the old man are two figures, 
 one holding an apple downwards in his hand, the other 
 raising one towards his mouth. On the west side a 
 dignified female, having a Greek tiara on her head 
 and loose mameluke sleeves, is seated on a cushioned 
 arm-chair, one arm resting on it, and the other raised 
 with the hand open towards a cow suckling its calf, 
 which are on a small scale, and placed half way up 
 this compartment ; below this representation of the
 
 Drawn by ChJrh 
 
 sa TORftffi AT
 
 XANTHUS. 233 
 
 cow and calf was probably the door into the tomb, 
 which has been destroyed, leaving a squared hole ; 
 under the chair of the female are apparently the wings 
 of a large bird. In the centre, three figures, similarly 
 dressed, are standing or walking, each with one hand 
 down holding fruit, and the other lifting a cup or 
 patera towards the mouth. Before them sits a fe- 
 male on a handsome cushioned arm-chair, with a foot- 
 stool ; her hair is plaited round her head, and in one 
 hand she has a patera, in the other a glass or cup 
 held to the mouth. I cannot explain the design of the 
 groups on any of the four sides, of which the centres 
 scarcely seem to form parts, although each side is in 
 a single bordered compartment. The figures, which 
 are about three feet high, are well executed in white 
 marble. The compartments, about nine feet in length, 
 form the top of the tomb, and are raised nearly twenty 
 feet from the ground upon a square pedestal of grey 
 stone, and roofed with two flat stones of a similar ma- 
 terial. There is no inscription on this tomb. 
 
 Close by this is another similar tomb, of the same 
 dimensions, entirely covered with the singular cha- 
 racters used in this city. In the walls of the acro- 
 polis a great number of beautifully wrought marbles 
 are built in as materials, without any regard to their 
 elegant Greek sculpture. Lions, warriors, chariots, 
 and horses are to be traced in many fragments, and 
 birds, like our game-cocks or pheasants, fighting. On 
 the site of a temple of rather small dimensions lay a
 
 234 
 
 LYCIA. 
 
 pretty frieze, about ten or twelve feet long and one 
 in width, representing a series of small dancing figures 
 with flying drapery ; not less than fifteen of these were 
 remaining. This temple, standing upon the brow of a 
 hill, and six or seven others which may still be traced 
 along the same cliff, must have produced an exquisitely 
 beautiful effect. 
 
 A sketch of the cottage occupied by the peasantry 
 
 -^_ t - A, . i n this part of the country, will show that scale alone 
 
 is wanting to make it the temple of the former in- 
 
 Jhabitants ; the tombs cut in the rocks in successive 
 ^ c/tszr<~ SLffc 
 JL istZ+A. oA*, a 8 es are a l so precisely similar in architectural design. 
 
 In the houses of the Greeks only is wine to be met 
 with, and by them it is taken far too freely. In their 
 mode of manufacturing it another trace of antiquity is 
 recognised. They add a flavour of turpentine, obtained 
 from the fir-apple ; this was also the custom with the
 
 VALLEY OF THE XANTHUS. 
 
 235 
 
 ancient Greeks, and the fir-apple is found in all bac- 
 chanalian emblems surmounting the vine-wreathed 
 thyrsus or staff of the god. 
 
 The only wheat grown in Asia Minor is bearded, 
 and this is the peculiar kind represented in the figures 
 of Ceres and upon ancient coins. 
 
 April 20th. Demelhee'r. We have had a most beau- 
 tiful ride of fifteen miles from Xanthus, crossing the 
 river, which is of considerable size, at a ford a mile 
 and a half below the ancient city, where its yellow 
 turbid waters cover double the width of its usual deep 
 bed ; then turning up the valley we traced its course 
 the whole way, scarcely diverging a mile from it, 
 sometimes ascending hills, wooded with well-grown 
 trees, from which were seen the many picturesque
 
 236 LYC1A. 
 
 windings of the river. The valley is the most beau- 
 tiful that I have seen in Asia Minor. I cannot con- 
 ceive a more picturesque point than the spot where I 
 have pitched my tent tonight, on the edge of a preci- 
 pice commanding a view of the whole valley, with fine 
 rising pasture land around, and backed by wooded 
 mountains towards Macry. The soil here is light, 
 but affords good pasture for sheep ; and in the valley 
 cultivation is more attended to than in any country 
 that I have seen for many weeks. 
 
 The people seem well off, but their life in tents 
 gives them an independence of manners and cha- 
 racter not very pleasing to a traveller. They are 
 exceedingly careless about money ; having enough to 
 eat, they wish for nothing more. Both man and beast 
 are in a most wild state. We are now at one of their 
 encampments, and though we ordered the horses to be 
 ready at six o'clock this morning, at seven the men 
 had not gone for them, and there was so much diffi- 
 culty in catching them, that they did not appear until 
 one o'clock in the afternoon. They were good horses, 
 but had no shoes, and were not accustomed to bridle 
 or saddle ; nor was the man who brought them more 
 familiar with these equipments, for he tied my stirrups 
 together under the horse with the girths, and did not 
 dare to encounter the intricacy of a common bridle, 
 but asked my guide which way upwards to put it on. 
 The Turks have not the least ingenuity ; they never 
 apply any instrument to a double purpose, and if they
 
 TLOS. 237 
 
 see any contrivance which is new to them, they ex- 
 claim, " Allah ! Allah !" even about the merest trifles. 
 
 April 2lst. We rode eight miles to the village of 
 Cousk, which consists of the house and establishment 
 of the governor of this district ; and here an hour was 
 wasted in obtaining a teskary, or local order for horses. 
 At the next village, Doover, we again forded the river, 
 and gradually rising from the valley for about five 
 miles, arrived at two or three mills, turned by the 
 copious streams which descend from the mountains be- 
 hind the ancient city, the ruins of which had attracted 
 me to this place. It is called in the maps Pinara, but 
 from the inscriptions I discovered it to be Tlos. 
 
 Leaving our baggage we rode up the mountain for 
 two or three miles. A few tombs bespoke the ap- 
 proach to the ancient city ; but its splendid and ap- 
 propriate situation would alone point it out as the 
 site of a Greek city. The remains now standing are 
 very extensive, consisting of extremely massive build- 
 ings, suited only for palaces ; the design appears to be 
 Roman, but not the mode of building nor the inscrip- 
 tions : the original city must have been demolished 
 in very early times, and the finely-wrought frag- 
 ments are now seen built into the strong walls, which 
 have fortified the town raised upon its ruins. The 
 theatre of the ancient city was large, and the most 
 highly and expensively finished that 1 have seen ; the 
 seats not only are of marble, as has been the case 
 in most that I have seen, but the marble is highly
 
 238 LYCIA. 
 
 wrought, and has been polished, and each seat has an 
 overhanging cornice, often supported by lions' paws. 
 The cornices of wreaths, masks, and other designs 
 are records of a luxurious city. There are also ruins 
 of several other extensive buildings with columns, but 
 their positions are not so good, and they may pro- 
 bably be of the date of the later town. The most 
 striking feature in the place is the perfect honeycomb 
 formed in the sides of the acropolis by excavated 
 tombs, which are cut out of the rock with architectural 
 ornaments, in the form of temples, etc., some showing 
 considerable taste. The sketch which I have taken 
 will convey an idea of this peculiar collection of tombs 
 better than a written description. There were many 
 other portions of the neighbouring rocks as much ex- 
 cavated as these. 
 
 Neither at Patara nor here is there the least trace of 
 inscriptions similar to those at Xanthus ; but there are 
 several in the Greek language, which may assist in de- 
 ciding the date of the place. 
 
 <J>AAYIAZ<NPMH:EYIONAOMI 
 TIOYAFIOMEINAPIOYTOY 
 AIKIOAOTOY 
 
 TAftEftN H BOYAH KAI H FEPOY 
 ZIAKAIOAHMOZ* 
 
 * " The Council, the Senate, and the People of the Tloeans * * 
 [commemorate] * * [the husband ?] of Flavia Firma, and son of 
 the judge Domitius Apominarius."
 
 TLOS. 239 
 
 IOYAIANTEPTYAAAN 
 TYNAIKAIOYAIOYMAPEI 
 NOYTOYAI KAIOAOTOY 
 TAflEftNHBOYAHKAIHrE 
 
 POYZIA 
 KAIOAHMOZ* 
 
 OAIE 
 
 TAflEHNTOI 
 AHMOIN'TION 
 EYISirENHEni 
 THAIHNEKEI 
 OMONOIAt 
 
 HfEM 
 WKAEnOYA' MAPKEIANOYJ 
 
 On a handsome sarcophagus is the following inscrip- 
 tion. 
 
 MEIAIZAPHHAONOZ 
 
 ZENEIAAPMAANAPOEI 
 
 ^YCHITHMHTPI 
 
 ^AITEIMAPXOZKAI 
 
 ZAPnHAnNOI<I>EPEKAI 
 
 * " The Council, the Senate, and the People of the Tloeans [com- 
 memorate] Julia Tertulla, wife of the judge Julius Marinutus." 
 
 f " * * * to the People of the Tloeans, * * * with a 
 view to permanent concord." 
 
 J " Erected in the time of the famous and wonderful general, Fla- 
 vius Cassius Marcianus."
 
 240 LYCIA. 
 
 OYZEniTHEATHNMA 
 MH<HAOZTOPnAZ 
 ENEKA* 
 
 In this part of the country I have seen, to my sur- 
 prise, many women with uncovered faces ; they are of 
 a peculiar and fine-looking race, the Chingunees, and 
 appear to have none of the shyness so general among 
 the Turkish women. Today some girls of this tribe 
 sat down by us and sang very prettily ; these sing- 
 ing-girls in appearance and occupation resemble the 
 gipsies of Europe ; their music has something of tbe 
 character of the Tyrolean mountain airs, but softened 
 by the Eastern language, and would be very pretty were 
 it not for a nasal twang, which perhaps may belong 
 only to the rural musicians. The men are itinerant 
 tinkers : among the Greeks, both here and in Greece, 
 they are employed as blacksmiths, a trade which is 
 avoided by the Greeks from religious scruples. This is 
 one of the many superstitions traditional in the Greek 
 church, and which are perpetuated by the priests, them- 
 selves the least informed among the people. I was told 
 by one of them as a reason for this observance, that a 
 blacksmith made the nails used at the crucifixion, and 
 that, having made more than were required, he and his 
 craft were cursed. He also informed me that the mo- 
 
 * " Midi [son or daughter] of Sarpedon * * * * to a [sweet] 
 mother : Timarchus and Sarpedon, the sons of Pherecles, to their 
 grandmother, from love and affection."
 
 TLOS. 241 
 
 live for hanging up in their churches the eggs of the 
 ostrich, which with other large eggs are constantly to 
 be seen suspended from the roof by a long string, was 
 that this egg is an emblem of faith; and he was sur- 
 prised that I was not aware that the ostrich, after 
 laying its egg, retires to a distance and looks at it, 
 until by the heat of its eye the egg is hatched ; this 
 undoubted fact so strongly shows the faith of the 
 bird, that its egg is considered a fit emblem of their 
 religion. 
 
 The mode of burial among the Greeks also furnishes 
 another instance of their credulity. The outward marks 
 of respect are scarcely visible in their burial-grounds, 
 little more being left to mark the place of interment 
 than a row of stones, indicating the oblong form of 
 the grave ; but a pipe or chimney, generally formed 
 of wood or earthenware, rises a few inches above the 
 ground, and communicates with the corpse beneath ; 
 and down this tube libations are poured by the friends 
 of the deceased to the attendant spirit of the dead. 
 The same practice prevailed among the ancient Greeks, 
 and is to be traced in many of their tombs. The 
 custom of hiring women to mourn with cries and 
 bowlings, is also retained by the modern Greeks at 
 their funerals. 
 
 April 22nd. We were detained until half-past two 
 o'clock today waiting for horses, which were to have 
 been ready at six o'clock in the morning ; they, like 
 the people, are wild, and live a happy and independent
 
 242 LYCIA. 
 
 life. The chase after the horses occupied the whole 
 day, about fifty being pursued over the open plain 
 until four were taken ; three were mares entrapped by 
 catching the foals : they were led captive by tying 
 unfolded turbans round their necks, for none of the 
 peasants possessed a halter. 
 
 The breeding of horses seems to be carried on to a 
 great extent here, there being herds of many hundreds 
 in the valley. The only kind of horse in this country 
 is that of which such spirited representations are to be 
 seen in the ancient marbles ; there is much of the 
 Arabian about the head ; the chest is large in pro- 
 portion to the fine bone of the legs, and the ears are 
 small, as in the antique. I have not seen the hogged 
 mane, which was so common in the early ages. Shoes 
 are not used, and I doubt whether the horses of the 
 ancient Greeks were shod at all ; no trace of shoes is 
 to be found on any antique statue. The ox of this 
 district also is precisely the same as that in ancient 
 statues, and there is no other breed in the country : 
 the cow is by no means common, the milk of the 
 sheep, goats, and bufFalos being that generally used. 
 
 We started from Doove'r with four horses, whose 
 feet had never worn a shoe, nor their mouths felt the 
 bit, and which therefore required much tutoring. The 
 foals trotted by our side the whole distance to Macry, 
 about twenty-two miles. The pace of the horses, taught 
 by the Turks, is a singular kind of run, between an 
 amble and a canter ; it is at the rate of six miles an
 
 TELMESSUS. 243 
 
 hour, and so easy that you cannot rise in the stirrup. 
 Being unaccustomed to this motion, I took the trouble 
 to teach my horse the more natural pace of trotting, 
 which I preferred for long travelling. As we gra- 
 dually wound through the range of the Cragus, which 
 bounds Macry on the south, the country assumed 
 the forest character, and the view as we descended 
 to the bay was very rich. We did not reach Macry 
 till ten o'clock at night ; and though the wind was 
 cold, at intervals of perhaps five or ten minutes a 
 stream of hot air blew past us, which in the dark I 
 attributed to lime-kilns burning near the wayside, 
 though there was no smell of the fuel ; but I hear 
 that there are none in the neighbourhood, and that 
 this wind is peculiar to the place. 
 
 April 23rd. Today, until eleven o'clock, there was 
 a moderate wind from the sea, which lies to the west- 
 ward, but since that time gusts have come down from 
 the mountains towards the east, so violent that branches 
 have been blown off the trees, and the water of the 
 shallow bay has been raised in waves and spray in a 
 contrary direction to the general current of the wind. 
 The mountains to the north are obscured at times by 
 clouds of mist, but no rain falls ; and I believe that 
 this collection of vapour may probably be the effect of 
 the contrary eddies and local stagnation of the air oc- 
 casioned by the peculiar formation of the hills, the 
 currents of cold air rushing down from the snowy 
 mountains replacing the heated air of the valley. I 
 
 R2
 
 244 LYCIA. 
 
 must mention, as perhaps connected with this pecu- 
 liarity, that the village of Kiacooe, six miles south, 
 where the governor of this district lives and whence 
 post-horses are usually obtained, is suffering so much 
 from the plague that it is now placed under quarantine, 
 and consequently I have to hire horses elsewhere, and 
 at a high rate. The people say that this weather is 
 considered very unhealthy. No such place as Meis is 
 known here, although appearing an important town in 
 the maps, and mentioned in the " Modern Traveller" 
 as the port of Macry. 
 
 The town, or rather the little port or scala, is inha- 
 bited principally by Greeks, and consists of about fifty 
 houses, or magazines, where much trade is carried on 
 in acorns, gall-nuts, and firewood. This is the site of 
 the ancient Telmessus, of which there are but few re- 
 mains. The theatre, of extremely plain architecture, 
 is very large, and in tolerable preservation, with the 
 exception of the proscenium. A number of caves, 
 partly built and partly cut in the rock, extend along 
 the coast, and appear to have been dungeons or guard- 
 rooms for a fortified town ; many foundations and walls 
 remain, but it is difficult to trace the plans of the 
 buildings. 
 
 The chief objects of interest are the tombs, which 
 are of several kinds and dates*, some appearing from 
 
 * The Soros or Sarcophagus tombs at Telmessus, which are con- 
 sidered more modern than those excavated in the rock, Professor Por- 
 son decides, from an inscription in Dr. Clark's Travels, to be of a date
 
 TELMESSUS. 245 
 
 the style to be of as late a period as the Romans ; 
 those standing on the hills and near the town have 
 been much shaken by the earthquakes so frequently 
 felt here. The most beautiful specimens are those 
 cut out of the live rock which has been excavated, 
 leaving what in appearance are finely built temples. 
 A singular consequence of this mode of building is 
 seen in a column broken at the base, but remaining 
 suspended by the capital. The tombs are in most cases 
 approached by steps, and the columns of the portico 
 stand out perhaps six feet from the entrance to the 
 cella ; the imitation of a door is carved in panels, with 
 ornaments and nails finely finished. The entrance has 
 originally been effected by sliding sideways a panel of 
 the false door ; but this tedious process has not suited 
 the despoilers of these tombs, who have entered by 
 breaking open one of the panels. The interiors vary 
 but little ; they are roughly worked, and are about 
 nine feet by twelve, and six feet in height ; on the 
 three sides are the seats, or more probably benches, 
 upon which the coffin or urns have been placed, three 
 feet six inches in height. Some tombs are larger, af- 
 fording accommodation for the mourners within them. 
 The outward architecture varies so much that I can 
 do no more than refer to the accompanying sketches, 
 which will assist in making my memoranda intelligible. 
 
 " evidently older than the 100th Olympiad," making the date probably 
 before 377 B.C.
 
 246 LYCIA. 
 
 On the panel of one is an inscription, but rendered 
 nearly illegible by the filtering of the water through 
 the rocks above, which has deposited so much stalac- 
 titic matter, as to bear down with it even the portion 
 of the solid rock forming the projecting ornaments. 
 
 METO MNHMIE 
 TNTHYn XONTIANE 
 TOIZ ONOZ 
 OYEIZ nrHIK 
 MNHE N 
 TOMN E* 
 
 * This seems to be monumental.
 
 247 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 CARIA. 
 
 Route by Dollomdn, Kodgez, Hodla Variation of Season Modla 
 Gipsies Stratoniceia its Ruins and Inscriptions Mylasa Primi- 
 tive mode of felling timber Labranda Kizzlejik and Baffy to Miletus 
 its Ruins Inhospitality of the Peasantry afterwards explained. 
 
 April 24th. AFTER a delightful ride of above forty 
 miles, I am in my tent at Dollomon. The route for 
 the first six miles was over plains, but we soon en- 
 tered a most beautiful series of wooded mountains, 
 with bold cliffs rising above finely grown trees. At 
 intervals we came upon narrow valleys of rich pasture, 
 with crystal streams winding towards the sea, which 
 frequently opened upon us to the left, but so inter- 
 sected by promontories and islands as to present the 
 appearance of lakes. No part of Asia Minor that I 
 have seen is so picturesque as the whole of this district, 
 throughout which the hills are well wooded from their 
 tops to the sea. 
 
 These hills are of a schisty limestone, much co- 
 loured by a red ochry deposit from the water, which 
 filters through it. Vegetation is here far more luxu-
 
 248 CARIA. 
 
 riant, but I have noticed few new species of plants; 
 there are some curious varieties of the cyclamen, can- 
 dytuft, and wild lavender. The lilac and white cistus 
 grow four or five feet high, and are very full of hloom, 
 as is also the wild sage. The heath is almost a tree, 
 being ten feet high, with a stem as thick as my arm. 
 I see a great number of plants with a white leaf, like 
 flannel, which grows as luxuriantly as the acanthus, 
 but none are yet in bloom*. On all the mountains 
 in this district the scarlet lichen clothes the rocks. 
 
 My collection of birds has received an addition to- 
 day in the bee- eater, of which we have shot several 
 specimens ; its plumage is beautiful. The bees make 
 their nests upon the turpentine firs, which cover the 
 hills, and from which they gather much honey; and 
 these birds follow them in flocks, flying very quickly, 
 making a loud clear chirp while on the wing, like star- 
 lings, but more sonorous, and generally settling upon 
 the fir-trees. Hitherto the magpies have been in such 
 numbers as to annoy us ; I have counted thirty or 
 forty together. The common jay gradually succeeded 
 them ; and now the most frequent bird, which is 
 scarcely ever out of hearing, is the beautiful blue jay 
 or roller, amusing us constantly by making somersets 
 in the air like the tumbler x pigeon. I have seen the 
 common brown partridge today for the first time. 
 
 April 25th. We are now at Koogez, twenty-five 
 
 * Salvia sethiopis.
 
 TELMESSUS TO STRATON1CEIA. 249 
 
 miles further to the north-west, and on the way to- 
 wards Moola. I am perfectly lost in the maps, which 
 have no resemblance to the country either in form, 
 rivers, or names of places. On leaving Dollomon, after 
 crossing one very large and another small river, we 
 ascended a considerable mountain, and by two o'clock 
 looked down upon a splendid lake, or rather bay, for 
 the water is brackish, a neck twelve miles in length 
 connecting it with the sea ; it is six or eight miles 
 across, and a number of small streams run into it, but 
 no river of any name. I observed up these streams, at 
 perhaps six or eight miles' distance from the brackish 
 water, the sea-crab, apparently enjoying the fresh clear 
 water of the stream. 
 
 All the governors in this district are the remnant 
 of the old Derebbes, whose power but a few years ago 
 threatened that of the Sultan ; they were then conti- 
 nually at war with one another. The sudden destruc- 
 tion of the Janissaries, and since then the equally cer- 
 tain but more gradual extermination of the independent 
 families of the Derebbes, have secured the quiet state 
 of the country, and perhaps the stability of the govern- 
 ment. At my halting-place last night, as well as here, 
 the governor's palace or establishment formed the 
 whole village ; in it the post was conducted, and in 
 fact there was no other house in the place. The father 
 of the governor here was a Derebbe of great power and 
 importance ; his house, which has now half of its 
 quadrangle in ruins, would have accommodated many
 
 250 
 
 CARIA. 
 
 hundred dependents, and adjoining was another ruin of 
 a large barrack. Ten ships of war, subject to his com- 
 mand, then floated in the lake, and all the country 
 around was dependent upon him, and served him 
 through fear. The power of the family is now extin- 
 guished, and I am lodged in one of the half-ruined 
 apartments of the palace. The governor is very civil, 
 but throughout this southern part of the country I find 
 the firman is looked upon in quite a different light from 
 what it is where the Sultan's new policy is more ra- 
 pidly working its way. But some progress has been 
 made here ; for a few years ago my lodging would 
 have been a prison, or the hold of a lawless brigand 
 or pirate. All these families know that the Sultan is 
 watching them, and only waiting for some breach of the 
 law on their part, or other pretext, to deprive them 
 entirely of power ; and this knowledge has completely 
 cowed these haughty chiefs. 
 
 On a small island near the shore of this lake or bay 
 are five or six cottages of Greeks, and a ruin of an 
 early Christian church. The cross represented on the
 
 TELMESSUS TO STRATONICEIA. 251 
 
 early Christian buildings is always of the form here re- 
 presented, which is very similar to the one shown at 
 Ravenna as a relic of that sera. The Greeks have here 
 their little place of worship. In this colony I observed 
 a marked peculiarity, namely a litter of pigs, the only 
 specimen of this animal that I have seen; probably 
 they are the only ones in Asia Minor, for the Turks 
 object to the animal, alive or dead, as unclean. 
 
 April c 2Qth. Five mares, each with its foal, were 
 brought at seven o'clock to carry us to Hoola, forty 
 miles distant. They had been fetched eight or ten 
 miles from the tents of their owners, the Chingunees 
 or gipsies, who here are the principal inhabitants of 
 the mountains. We halted <it one of their tents as we 
 passed to arrange our baggage ; and the women, who 
 were unveiled, displayed a strength as great as, and an 
 activity far greater than, would be found in the tents 
 of the Turks. During our short pause a number of 
 women and their children assembled round us. What 
 a study for a Rembrandt or a Murillo in the singular 
 but extreme beauty of some of the group ! There was 
 a mother with her child, perhaps five years old, dark 
 as a negro, but of a far healthier and richer colour, 
 almost veiled by its wild hair, which had never been 
 cut, and perhaps never combed; its neck was hung 
 with beads, coins, and various chains ; its very few 
 clothes hung loosely, leaving the arms and legs bare. 
 The mother was young and of a peculiar beauty ; with 
 much elegance and softness, yet with the dignity of a
 
 252 CARIA. 
 
 Meg Merrilies ; she had somewhat of the Graeco-Egyp- 
 tian style of face, the features being rather long. Her 
 hair, which was formed into a band round her head and 
 partly plaited, flowed with a long handkerchief down 
 her back. Her clothes were loose and few ; the breast 
 was open, and the legs bare from the knee ; the arms 
 also were exposed. With this appearance even of po- 
 verty in the dress, there was at the same time a con- 
 siderable display of wealth ; on one of her wrists I saw 
 three broad gold bracelets, or bands of plain gold, about 
 three quarters of an inch wide, and on her neck other 
 gold ornaments. A bunch of fresh flowers was stuck 
 into the hair, a very common ornament among the 
 people throughout Turkey; it is placed so carelessly, 
 and still with so much taste both as to position 
 and selection of colours, that a stranger cannot but 
 be struck with it; and this is done without the aid 
 of a glass, for there can scarcely be one in the 
 whole country : I have seen none in the houses of 
 either rich or poor, both Greeks and Turks having re- 
 ligious scruples against their use. I observe my guides 
 frequently picking up flowers, and sticking them care- 
 lessly into the folds of the turban, generally with the 
 blossom hanging downwards. * 
 
 From some goatherds in the neighbourhood I ob- 
 tained two musical instruments, a long flute and a 
 kind of guitar, used by the inhabitants. They had 
 themselves made them, and played several airs upon 
 them, one of which I recognised as the same I had
 
 TELMESSUS TO STRATONICEIA. 
 
 253 
 
 heard played on a flute of a similar kind during the 
 dancing of the Dervises at Constantinople*. 
 
 The country is still most richly wooded : another 
 species of the plane is common here, far inferior to 
 the one of which I have before spoken ; it grows up- 
 right and very high, and does not throw off the bark, 
 which is rough ; it has a leaf with five points like a 
 star, which when touched emits a strong smell f. The 
 trees here form a complete wilderness of rich thicket, 
 a happy land for the birds, which have miles of im- 
 pervious woods, where they dwell in multitudes : the 
 vines are matted over the tops of the highest trees, 
 and covered with fruit, not a bunch of which will be 
 
 * The same instruments, the present mode of playing upon them, 
 and even the usual attitude whilst playing, are exactly represented in 
 the following figures, copied from an Egyptian papyrus at the British 
 Museum. 
 
 f Liquidambar imberbis.
 
 254 CARIA. 
 
 gathered except by the birds. I passed along a thicket 
 of this kind for nearly twenty miles yesterday, in which 
 nightingales and thrushes were singing most delight- 
 fully; and in the evening the nightingales hymn my 
 vespers, regardless of the light in my tent, until the 
 fatigue of travelling bids me sleep. 
 
 Hodla lies in the mountains, and is the first place 
 that I have passed since leaving Adalia deserving the 
 name of a village. Its elevation has carried me back 
 a month in vegetation ; here however the trees are in 
 bloom, and generally green. For the first time I see 
 rye cultivated ; oats are unknown in the country. The 
 distance from Koogez to Hoola is about forty miles, 
 and twelve miles further is Moola, which lies still 
 higher in the mountains. These are again becoming 
 bare, and of marble, and the twelve miles have car- 
 ried the season back almost to winter, the walnuts, 
 figs, and fruit-trees scarcely showing a leaf. The map 
 distance is perhaps not more than four miles, yet the 
 climate is that of another country. 
 
 April 27th. Moola is a town of considerable size, 
 and stands at the south-eastern end of its valley. 
 Thence I travelled north-west for twenty-four miles 
 to the post- village called Acrui-cooe (or Stable-village), 
 and the next morning continued the same line for eight 
 miles to Esky Hissa, the ancient Stratoniceia. This 
 valley is varied by hill and dale, and has its moun- 
 tain, river, and meadows ; indeed it contains within 
 its range so extensive and varied a country, that it
 
 STRATONICEIA. 255 
 
 would be easy to imagine oneself in a far distant 
 region ; I have fancied myself at home, for at this 
 elevation (about four thousand feet) the season and the 
 products of the soil are precisely those of England, 
 the trees just in leaf, the flowers coming out, and no 
 plant to be seen that is not known in our country. 
 
 The ancient town of Stratoniceia has extended over 
 a considerable space, and, judging from the remains, 
 must have been formed of magnificent buildings. Five 
 or six temples may still be traced, and it has its theatre 
 in the hill on the west of the town. Many of its walls 
 are built of the ruins of former structures, which ap- 
 pear to have been all of white marble. One immense 
 cella of a temple still stands in the centre of the town; 
 its walls are of the large stones used by the early 
 Greeks ; and at each corner is a sculptured shield, 
 with a sword or spear across the back of it, as seen 
 so frequently in Pamphylia. A handsome cornice still 
 runs round a part of the walls. The stones within the 
 portico are covered with inscriptions ; I copied one, 
 which from its position, and the form of the beau- 
 tifully cut letters, must have been among the earliest. 
 
 NHMOZYNONAN HZOIN AA 
 
 AYPONMETPHZAZMONZ AfMATI A 
 
 1EMONTEKATEPONMHN/ HEMBOAOYZ AA 
 
 NAANTIZETYXETHZAriAIAEYTOYTYXHZ AA 
 
 nAPHZIANOMOIANOYKEXONBPOTIlIZ KH 
 
 FIAPHIOPEITAIKAIONAPIONMHZAZTAAE AA
 
 256 CARIA. 
 
 TOZErPA4'ATOIZ4>IAOIZIXPHZIMON A 
 
 ZYNOI PI PONOI AAOI RON EIZTOAEYTEPON AA 
 
 ZYnEPINOHTONHAKNArrEIAAIZTIXON AA 
 
 YnEPTATOIZrAPHMJlNEYXHNHPHKAIAII A 
 
 PEMBHNOAttFlEPAZAZTHNETHZIANXAPIM AA 
 EYAAIMONHZAZAEATONANATienGE 
 
 The walls of the cella on the outside were literally co- 
 vered with inscriptions, which might all be deciphered 
 by devoting time to them. Many parts of columns still 
 stand in their original positions, and also two or three 
 fine arches and doorways, indicating the magnificence 
 of the former buildings. The following are fragments 
 of well-cut inscriptions. 
 
 IBEPK 
 KENT 
 
 HKANEIZ 
 
 The next has been over a doorway. 
 
 IOEYZEBEIKAITHHA 
 KTONZIZMONANEf 
 
 * This inscription seems to record the fulfilment of a vow to Jupiter 
 and Juno. 
 
 f This appears to have commemorated an escape from an earthquake.
 
 STRATONICEIA. 257 
 
 The present village is scattered over a wide space, and 
 is formed of, and within, the ancient ruins. 
 
 The road hence to Mellassa, the ancient Mylasa, is 
 varied by many small hills, from which it descends 
 steeply to a plain, with the town standing at the end 
 of it. Along the whole line of road I observed 
 much ironstone, and some almost pure iron-ore : the 
 small hills were all of the micaceous schist which I 
 have before endeavoured to describe ; it varied much in 
 colour, being sometimes as white and shining as silver, 
 and forming a sand like Calais sand, but glittering with 
 mica; at other times being almost jet black, then red, 
 blue, green, or yellow. The broad veins of marble 
 were highly crystallized in many places, and almost 
 transparent, resembling the agate rocks of the central 
 country; the slaty schist was shivered into splinters a 
 foot long, and in some places into flakes as thin as pa- 
 per, the whole indicating the effects of great heat. The 
 country was entirely covered with a forest of fir-trees ; 
 the mode of felling which is so singularly primitive, 
 that the American Indian alone could do it in a more 
 simple manner. The bark is cut for two or three feet, 
 and the trunk wounded with the long knife of the 
 people ; afterwards for a season the turpentine bleeds 
 from these cuttings, and they then set fire to it, thus 
 consuming the trunk to the depth of about an inch : 
 the tree is then again chipped, and the fire applied to 
 the renewed discharge of inflammable sap. Some years 
 are thus employed in felling a large tree, which at last
 
 258 CARIA. 
 
 falls, borne down by a heavy gust of wind. After the 
 tree is down, the slow habits of the people are still 
 shown in their further operations. The small branches 
 alone are cut off for firewood ; the trunk is then chipped 
 or grooved on the upper side, so as to catch the rain- 
 water, to promote the decay of the wood ; and in this 
 state the tree lies, sometimes across a path, which is 
 turned in consequence for several years, until, falling 
 to pieces, the parts are carried away on the camels and 
 asses employed in the trade of furnishing firewood to 
 the villages and sea-ports. The timber, although ex- 
 tremely straight and good of the kind, is used for no 
 other purpose than fuel, and in every neighbourhood 
 many hundred trees are undergoing the process above 
 described. The smaller trees, laid in lines around the 
 cultivated grounds, are used as fences, the branches 
 soon harbouring luxuriant vegetation, forming a thicket, 
 through which the cattle seldom break. 
 
 The water-jars of this western part of Asia Minor are 
 made of red clay, and are in form precisely like the 
 terra-cotta vases of the ancient Greeks. These jars, 
 which stand but insecurely, are seen tied to the trunks 
 of trees by the wayside, and kept constantly filled for 
 the use of the traveller. This extremely grateful sup- 
 ply of water, in parts of the country remote from natural 
 springs or aqueducts, is a religious care for the ablu- 
 tions before prayer. There are very frequently endow- 
 ments for the maintenance of this devotional observ- 
 ance. Upon fountains supplied by small aqueducts are
 
 MYLASA. 259 
 
 frequently Turkish inscriptions relating the motive and 
 occasion of such bequests to the stranger and traveller. 
 The replenishing of these jars is usually the care of 
 the women, who may be seen carrying them upon their 
 backs, slung by cords in the manner represented in 
 this sketch. 
 
 On descending to the plain of Mylasa towards the 
 south-west, the mountains, or rather elevated valleys, 
 assume a singular appearance, presenting a long table- 
 land, ending abruptly in a bold cliff. This portion of 
 land is backed by high mountains, and from its form I 
 conceive that it is of the same character, and has the 
 same origin, as the volcanic country in the interior. 
 
 s2
 
 260 CARIA. 
 
 An imposing fortification stands upon one of these 
 cliffs, erected during the time of Soley Bey. 
 
 On entering Mellassa I was amused by a gravestone 
 in a Turkish burial-ground, formed of a robed female 
 statue of white marble, stuck head and shoulders down- 
 wards into the ground : the projecting feet had been 
 broken off, but the folds of the drapery showed that the 
 statue must have been of good Greek workmanship. 
 In the town I also saw a beautiful body of a child, 
 about a foot or eighteen inches long, with one arm 
 over its breast, built into the wall of a house ; the head 
 and legs had been broken off. I wished to purchase it, 
 and was told that the occupier of the house would wil- 
 lingly part with it for a trifling sum, but that he could 
 not because he was a rich man. On inquiring into the 
 reason of this, I learned that the stones of the country 
 are the right of the governor, as lord of the manor ; 
 and that if he heard of a rich tenant selling one. he 
 would assert that the stone contained gold, and levy a 
 tax or fine upon him of some thousand piastres. This 
 arbitrary power proceeds doubtless from a very bad 
 system, but in its operation is not without its advan- 
 tages. The law of the Koran, by which the country is 
 governed, is known to all, and its comprehensive de- 
 claration, " Thou shalt not steal," is easily understood. 
 If any man obeys the law, he is secure, even from the 
 caprice of a Sultan ; but if once he breaks it, the of- 
 fender has placed himself at the mercy of a governor, 
 whose sole object in purchasing his district is gain.
 
 
 < 
 
 a 
 fc
 
 LABRANDA. 261 
 
 The offender is therefore fined according to his power 
 of paying ; his life or liberty would be no gain to the 
 governor, and thus his gold is his only ransom ; the 
 effect of this system is that a rich man very rarely 
 breaks the law. I have often heard that to be rich 
 in Turkey was dangerous, and I now see the meaning 
 of the expression. 
 
 Every house, wall, or fence is formed of the stones of 
 the old town, which must have contained very highly 
 ornamented buildings. There remain standing some 
 walls and many foundations, a beautiful Corinthian 
 arched gateway, and a single fluted column; the latter 
 stands conspicuously in the upper part of the present 
 town, which is a place of considerable importance. 
 
 April 30th, Yesterday I travelled thirty-two miles ; 
 today I have only completed twenty-four, bringing me 
 to this village, Baffy, near the southern end of the lake 
 of the same name. About eight miles on my journey 
 today I saw the ruins of Labranda, near the modern 
 village of lakly. The only conspicuous building of the 
 place is a beautiful temple of the Corinthian order, but 
 I think not of the finest age : its situation is by no 
 means good, which is rarely the case with the temples 
 of the early Greeks : it stands in a recess in the hills, 
 and is consequently not seen without approaching close 
 to it. There are twelve fluted columns, and four not 
 fluted, but apparently prepared for this ornamental 
 finish. Other columns lying on the ground are reeded, 
 and yet are evidently for the same temple. From se-
 
 262 
 
 CARIA. 
 
 veral features about it I should fancy that the temple 
 had never been completed. The symmetry of the 
 fluted columns is much disturbed by a kind of panel 
 or tablet, not let in, but left uncut, projecting above 
 the fluting. On each tablet is an inscription. I copied 
 
 two from those on the columns at the back or west end, 
 which were the easiest of access. The contents of the 
 two are in effect the same. 
 
 MENEKPATHZME 
 
 NEKPATOYZ0APXIA 
 
 TPOETHCnOACIICCT 
 
 <I>ANH<I>OPWNTONKIO 
 
 NAEYNENEIPHKAIKE 
 
 <!>AAHnPONOHCAME 
 
 NHCTHCOYFATPOE 
 
 AYTOYTPY<I>AI N H CTC 
 
 KAIAYTHZZTE<t>ANH<l>O 
 
 POYKAIFYMNAEIAPXW* 
 
 * Translation. 
 " Menecrates, son of Menecrates, the chief physician of the city,
 
 MILETUS. 263 
 
 On a small hill to the north-west there are several 
 foundations of other buildings, apparently walls, but of 
 very limited extent. 
 
 At half an hour's distance is the picturesque village 
 of Kizzlejik. The country here is extremely beautiful, 
 and is again becoming ornamented by the trees and 
 shrubs of a warmer climate ; and among them the Ita- 
 lian stone-fir, which I think I have not seen since leav- 
 ing the Troad. 
 
 The little village of Baffy lies among hills richly 
 wooded, and inclosed between two ranges of mountains. 
 Its distance from the neighbouring lake, which is shut 
 out from the sight, is about two miles. At the southern 
 end of the lake are the ruins of a considerable town ; 
 but as a day would have been occupied in visiting it, I 
 was satisfied with the distant view across the water. 
 Walls inclosed it, and an island in front was covered 
 with buildings. In the Useful Knowledge map the 
 place is marked as Heracleia, and Myrus is placed 
 higher up the Maeander ; but from the information I 
 received I should rather give this town, and the lake 
 also, the name of Myrus. 
 
 A series of wooded hills, and an impervious thicket, 
 with not even a goat to browse upon it, extended along 
 the side of a lake for twenty miles to Pallattia, the 
 ancient Miletus. The lake, which is brackish, is con- 
 wearing a wreath, provided this column with its base and capital in 
 memory of his daughter Tryphamete, herself also wearing a wreath, 
 and being a director of the Gymnasium."
 
 264 CARIA. 
 
 nected with the Mseander by a river celebrated for its 
 fish, about two miles long. A little colony of Greeks, 
 who had their fishing establishment on this spot, gave 
 me much information as to the state of the plague in 
 this part of the country : they were themselves in qua- 
 rantine, and kept away from us, but presented two fine 
 fish of a kind which I did not know, and a loaf of 
 bread. I insisted upon making a return in money, and 
 at last a bowl of water was handed to receive my small 
 coins. Unfortunately at all the post -villages the plague 
 was raging severely, which not only greatly increased 
 my trouble in obtaining horses, but quadrupled my 
 expenses. The system of each village isolating itself 
 by local quarantine is now generally adopted even by 
 the Turks, although they do it in a careless way. In 
 this part of the country we found some exclusively 
 Greek villages, for here the villages of Greeks and 
 Turks are very frequently distinct, the appearance of 
 neatness at once bespeaking the former nation, and the 
 presence of a pig, and the absence of the stork, giving 
 further proof that no Turk lives in the place. 
 
 Miletus was probably once on a headland or island 
 in a bay or lake, for its hills rise out of the perfectly 
 dead flat of the valley of the Maeander, which at this 
 point is about ten miles across, and runs up towards 
 the north for five miles, and then eastward as far as 
 Denezlee. Of its upper part I intend to see more. 
 The land here is almost wholly pasture or swamp; and 
 the river, which is deep but not broad, by its winding
 
 MILETUS. 265 
 
 course shows the origin of our term for that peculiarity ; 
 it meanders as much as the river at Stirling. Its waters 
 bring down a large quantity of mud and sand, and this 
 deposit going on for ages doubtless accounts for the 
 nature of the soil of the immense plain, which has not 
 a rock or stone larger than a rounded pebble, except the 
 fragments of some columns or ancient buildings. 
 
 At Miletus are the remains of an enormous theatre. 
 An aqueduct may be traced, and the site of several 
 temples ; its other remains are only walls, apparently 
 of Roman or Christian date, and many of its broken 
 columns are evidently Christian. There are the ruins 
 of a Christian church, formed out of a Greek temple, 
 of the Corinthian order, whose fine arched vaults have 
 supported the structure of each age, of which the ancient 
 Greek has proved the most durable. Here I pitched 
 my tent : before me stood a fine mosque, built of the 
 ruins of Christian churches; but its doom was also 
 sealed; the stork alone occupied its ruined walls. 
 
 The modern village contains but a few huts, the un- 
 healthy situation and inactivity of the people having 
 reduced their numbers to less than fifty. I was 
 recommended by them (for they would not point out 
 which was their Aga,) to remove to a little distance, 
 as they had very recently had illness among them. No 
 mark of hospitality was shown to me, and on applying 
 to hire horses I was shunned by all. The authority 
 of the firman was useless, for they would not point out 
 the chief to whom I might present it: the temptation of
 
 266 CARIA. 
 
 money was also of no avail, as they said they did not 
 want it, and their horses were at pasture in the plain: 
 others led me to suppose they would bring horses ; but 
 all failed, and I was unable to proceed. The children 
 were not checked for calling us Ghiaours, and we were 
 laughed at by the people, a situation by no means 
 soothing to the temper of either an Englishman or a 
 Greek. My servant Demetrius swore at the whole 
 nation of Turks, and upbraided me by asking where was 
 the great hospitality for which I praised this people. 
 Not being disposed, in consequence of one instance to 
 the contrary, to condemn all the nation, I said that 
 there must be some cause for our being so neglected 
 here. 
 
 Some peasants passing through to the next village, 
 Sansoon, were prevailed upon as a favour (for they were 
 not influenced by money) to carry the baggage ; and a 
 lad, partly by our intimidation and partly by his own 
 poverty, was led to take the bold step of supplying us 
 with two riding horses, which we agreed should go 
 with us for a fixed sum to Chanly, the second village on 
 our route; the others were going there also, but they 
 would only agree to carry the baggage half way, and 
 this as a favour. We no sooner g % ot out of the village, 
 than sociable chat commenced, and the mystery of 
 our ill usage was solved. Last year four Europeans, it 
 is to be feared English, the Captain, twoMilordos, and 
 another person, paid a visit to the ruins from their 
 vessel ; they hired horses to return to the sea, a distance
 
 MILETUS. 267 
 
 of about ten miles. On the way Milordos struck one of 
 the Turks ; a quarrel ensued, and a lad was severely 
 beaten, and left they say half dead. The Turks upon 
 this put down their load, leaving the party half way 
 upon the road, to get as they could to their vessel, but 
 offered no violent retaliation. On their return the 
 whole village swore to have no intercourse with Euro- 
 peans in future ; and in order to do this without break- 
 ing the law, they would not point out their chief, to 
 whom, or of whom, alone an application or complaint 
 can be made. The lad who accompanied us was of a 
 neighbouring village, but was cautioned by the people 
 of Pallattia that we did not intend to pay him, and that 
 he was sure to be well beaten by us. We could not 
 remove from his mind the fear of this, and as we found 
 plenty of horses at the Greek village of Sansodn, at his 
 earnest request we released him from his bargain of 
 accompanying us further, and he, to his great joy and 
 surprise, returned home without a beating, and with 
 money in his pocket. This incident, I think, shows 
 how much forbearance and philosophy there is in the 
 conduct of these people.
 
 268 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 SOUTH OF LYDIA. 
 
 Priene Sansoon Thunder-storm Natural History Chanly Scala 
 Nuova Ephesus its Remains Idin, the ancient Tralles A Mar- 
 ket-day Valley of the Mseander. 
 
 May 1st. THE Greek village of Sansoon is prettily 
 placed, house above house, upon the rocky slopes of 
 the mountain, and commands a splendid view of the 
 valley and lake which we had passed. An horizon of 
 beautiful mountains, rising behind richly wooded hills, 
 gives bounds to the plains below. 
 
 Within a mile of Sansoon towards the sea, and upon 
 a bolder and more precipitous rock, stood the ancient 
 Priene. The admirable choice of situation for these 
 two towns shows that the taste of their ancestors is 
 inherited by the modern Greeks. The Turkish village 
 of Sansoon, which lies in the valley a mile below, is 
 now for the most part in ruins, and at this season is 
 wholly deserted by its inhabitants for their tents in the 
 hills. The villagers of the Greek Sansoon soon came 
 within their legal quarantine distance to learn our
 
 PRIENE. 
 
 269 
 
 wants, and on my return from a walk I found my 
 servant gossiping with thirty or forty wondering and 
 intelligent hearers who stood around him. These in- 
 habitants were all employed in spinning, winding, or 
 working in some way; and their industry seemed, from 
 the appearance of the houses and everything around, 
 to have met with its reward. The implements for spin- 
 
 ning and the mode of using them are precisely those 
 seen in the vases and sculptures of the ancient Greeks. 
 I observed the same mode throughout the country, the 
 store of wool being sometimes placed within the capa- 
 cious sash or shawl, instead of on the distaff. The men
 
 270 SOUTH OF LYDIA. 
 
 are often employed in spinning the goat's hair and 
 coarse wool for the making of the tents. We made our 
 purchases of bread, fowls, wine, and eggs, and the basin 
 of water received the small return for our stores, and 
 horses were brought to us in the morning. 
 
 I was not able to examine closely the ruins of 
 Priene, but saw many old walls covering an extensive 
 slope of a hill, out of which, as if built by art, spring 
 perpendicularly the rocks on whose top was the acro- 
 polis : a few walls also remain, and the cliff has been 
 perfected in its face by the walls of the early Greeks, 
 who worked well in concert with nature. A theatre 
 behind is, as usual, cut out of the face of the hill. 
 
 In my tent at Miletus I experienced an awful night of 
 successive storms of thunder. My tent appeared to be 
 the target at which every weapon of the elements was 
 aimed. The setting sun left us oppressed by a sultry 
 heat ; soon afterwards a gust of wind made the cords 
 quiver and the canvas belly before the howling blast ; 
 the rain followed in torrents, loudly hissing as it fell, 
 and scarcely turned from its downward course by the 
 power of the wind ; the tent was lit up by the succes- 
 sive flashes of lightning, and the peals of thunder, 
 had they not been softened by the long echos as they 
 rolled into the distance along the ranges of mountains 
 on either side, would have awakened even Demetrius ; 
 but he lay fast asleep. I called to him; but the noise 
 of the falling rain on the tent had rendered his ears deaf 
 to feebler sounds, and he slept on. Fine, calm, clear
 
 MILETUS TO EPHESUS. 271 
 
 moonlight succeeded, and every dripping leaf multiplied 
 the stars ; but it was not in stillness ; for the clouds, 
 which had been borne beyond our horizon, were still 
 pealing in their distant progress, leaving the mountains 
 vibrating their notes. After slackening the braced cords 
 of the tent, I lay down to sleep, but was again awakened 
 by a repetition of the storm. The lightning, which 
 seemed to linger on the canvas, showed me by my 
 watch hanging at a distance that it was three o'clock. 
 While dozing I was startled by seeing amidst the flashes 
 a light and smoke within the tent, and, calling with all 
 my strength to awake Demetrius, found that he had 
 just been roused by the storm and had struck a light, 
 and that it was his brimstone match which I had mis- 
 taken for a thunderbolt. To converse was impossible, 
 and listening to the twice-told tale of the storm I soon 
 again fell asleep, leaving Demetrius, who acts the 
 Turk only too well, sitting with his pipe listening to the 
 thunder, which lasted till near eight o'clock in the 
 morning. The only traces of the tempest which I then 
 observed were the noisy cries of myriads of gulls and 
 sea-birds hovering about, probably in search of the ani- 
 mal wrecks left by the storm. 
 
 May 2nd. The ride of fifteen miles to Chanly, 
 (probably the ancient Neapolis,) standing not far be- 
 yond the promontory of Trogilium, is for half the 
 distance up the steepest track I ever rode over. From 
 the summit of this main range, of which Trogilium 
 forms the termination, (although Samos is geologically
 
 272 SOUTH OF LYDIA. 
 
 a continuation of it,) is seen on either side a per- 
 fect and beautiful map, the only good map of this 
 country, on the one side extending to the mountains 
 forming the Dorian Gulf, and on the other to those of 
 Chios and Smyrna. The road now descended, but not 
 so precipitously, and my time was fully employed in 
 admiring the great variety and beauty of the trees and 
 other features of the natural history of the spot. There 
 is an oak here that I have not before seen, or at any 
 rate not in so luxuriant growth; it affords excellent 
 timber, although not a very lofty tree ; the leaf is 
 eight or ten inches long, and cut almost into ribbons 
 like the fern*. The dazzling colours of the bloom of 
 the pomegranate makes one regret that it should ever 
 fade into so insipid a fruit. A tree very common here, 
 having the leaf and growth of an ash, but of a dark 
 colour, is now covered with fruit nearly ripe, blue and 
 about the size of currants, but growing in erect bunches 
 like that of the laurustinus ; it is called chicureaf- 
 Another has a leaf in shape between the willow and the 
 peach, but more like the former, the back of the leaf 
 being white : it bears a small yellow flower from the 
 stem, which scents the air more strongly than any blos- 
 som I am acquainted with, more powerfully sweet than 
 the orange blossom of Sicily ; the fruit is reddish and 
 like a small date ; it is called gegefer J. The trees are 
 
 * Quercus Cerris. f Pistacia Terebinthus. 
 
 J Elseagnus angustifolia.
 
 MILETUS TO EPHESUS. 273 
 
 neglected here by man alone, the birds and insects en- 
 joying them undisturbed. I have seen several wood- 
 peckers and a small nut-boring bird, the nuthatch. 
 
 The entomologist would here find a wide field for 
 study. I thought England in my younger days a rich 
 and beautiful one, but here the insects, like man, 
 assume a far more gay costume. There are many 
 gaily-coloured species of the blossom-eating tribe of 
 soft-winged beetles, some in form like the diamond- 
 beetle, though not so brilliant. A large species of the 
 Gryllus tribe seems to ape the birds, flying on every 
 side from tree to tree, and chirping with a shrill note. 
 The butterflies are becoming very numerous, and each 
 day shows some new variety ; the beautiful Panorpa 
 coa, with its long balancing wings, tempted me to its 
 destruction. 
 
 The mulberry-trees which were under cultivation 
 around the village of Chanly bespoke its Greek inha- 
 bitants. There is another village bearing the same 
 name, but wholly of Turks, about four miles distant, 
 whose inhabitants are now fast falling before the plague. 
 Chanly was in quarantine ; but knowing that we did not 
 come from an infected place, the people were not very 
 strict, and furnished us with horses, with which we 
 proceeded along the bay, to a spot a few miles beyond 
 Scala Nuova, where we pitched our tent. At this 
 town many victims were daily carried off by the plague, 
 and this prevented my being able to procure post- 
 horses. On approaching the city I skirted its walls,
 
 274 SOUTH OF LYDIA. 
 
 and here, as with most Turkish towns, the favourable 
 impression is perhaps highest before entering. Scala 
 Nuova, in situation and outward appearance, is parti- 
 cularly beautiful ; being built upon the side of a hill, 
 every house is visible. The town is walled, and has 
 a handsome aqueduct. Its little harbour, which was 
 tenantless, is formed and defended by a curious neck 
 of land and an island ; on the latter is a tower for its 
 defence, and the whole city has the appearance of a 
 fortification. It ranks among the largest of the towns 
 in the country, but at present is cut off even from any 
 commerce by the plague. 
 
 My next move was a three hours' ride to Ephesus, a 
 place so familiar to the mind that one cannot but feel 
 disappointed at not seeing realised all the ideas asso- 
 ciated with it. The vicinity of Ephesus to the coast, as 
 well as to Smyrna, has enabled many travellers to visit 
 this celebrated city, and the memory of the past may 
 perhaps have led them to indulge too freely their imagi- 
 nation whilst contemplating the few silent walls which 
 remain. 
 
 Of the site of the theatre, the scene of the tumult 
 raised by Demetrius, there can be no doubt, its ruins 
 being a wreck of immense grandeur. I think it must 
 have been larger than the one at Miletus, and that ex- 
 ceeds any I have elsewhere seen in scale, although not 
 in ornament. Its form alone can now be spoken of, for 
 every seat is removed, and the proscenium is a hill of 
 ruins. I was here reminded that the names used in
 
 EPHESUS. 275 
 
 this country remain still unchanged; for as I sat on a 
 broken portion of a seat under the shade of the wild 
 fennel, which grows here ten or twelve feet high, and to 
 which spot I had been called to see a sleeping snake, 
 my thoughts still running upon Demetrius's tumult, 
 my Demetrius rushed in through the vomitory of the 
 theatre, preceded by a tumult of frightened birds, to 
 pick up an owl which he had destined for my col- 
 lection. 
 
 A splendid circus or stadium remains tolerably en- 
 tire, and one of those gigantic and nameless piles of 
 buildings seen alike at Pergamus and Troy, here and at 
 Tralles ; by some they are called gymnasia, by others 
 temples, and again, with I think more reason, pa- 
 laces. They all came with the Roman conquest, and, 
 as I have said at Pergamus, no one but a Roman em- 
 peror could have conceived such structures. In Italy 
 they have parallels in Adrian's Villa near Tivoli, and 
 perhaps in the pile upon the Palatine. Many other 
 walls remain to show the extent of the buildings of the 
 city, but no inscription or ornament is to be found, 
 cities having been built out of this quarry of worked 
 marble. The ruins of the adjoining town, which arose 
 about four hundred years ago, are entirely composed 
 of materials from Ephesus, and these old castle and 
 mosque walls have become in their turn our quarry for 
 relics of antiquity. The few huts within these last- 
 named ruins, which are perhaps a mile and a half from 
 Ephesus, still retain the name of the parent city, Asa-
 
 276 SOUTH OF LYDIA. 
 
 look, a Turkish word, which is associated with the 
 same idea as Ephesus, and meaning the City of the 
 Moon. The ancient wall, carried on the ridge of the 
 mountain to the south of the city, is a fine specimen 
 of very early Greek architecture ; it has only the hori- 
 zontal line of joints regular, the others being irregular 
 as in the Cyclopean : the doorways are also of the 
 early Graeco-Egyptian, as seen at Assos. 
 
 We travelled nearly fifty miles in a south-easterly 
 direction, through frequent storms of rain, to Idin or 
 Goozel Hissd, the ancient Tralles, where we arrived 
 on Friday the 5th of May. Of the old town there re- 
 mains only enough to show that it occupied the ele- 
 vation which overlooks the present city. Upon this 
 are still standing the foundations of walls, and the 
 ruins of one of those palaces which I have before 
 mentioned, and whose fine arches are conspicuous for 
 many miles around. This building has evidently been 
 repaired many times, the stones of the upper part con- 
 taining inverted inscriptions and ornaments. Within 
 the arches, which have been plastered, remain some 
 paintings, with the same design on each, and, within 
 painted wreaths, inscriptions now quite illegible. If 
 these works were coeval with the building, assuredly 
 painting did not flourish in the same age as architec- 
 ture. This elevated ground has been laid open in 
 many places, which are worked as quarries for the 
 modern town ; the troughs and cisterns now in use 
 have all been pedestals, capitals of columns, or tombs.
 
 TRALLES. 277 
 
 The modern town, which is of considerable extent, 
 has the appearance of a village, from the number of 
 trees growing among the houses. Bazaars form the 
 streets, which, as usual, are completely shaded from 
 the sun ; but here trees supply the place of the mats 
 which are used for the purpose in most towns. The 
 market-day occurred while I was here. I have in En- 
 gland been at fairs and races, and have witnessed the 
 commemoration days in Paris, and the masquerades 
 and carnivals in Catania and Naples ; but all fall short, 
 in gay variety and general beauty of costume, of this 
 Turkish market. The foliage of the plants and trees 
 growing in the streets formed a pleasant relief to the 
 dazzling whiteness of the veils, and the splendid co- 
 lours of the embroidered trowsers, of the multitudes 
 of women attending the market ; light blue worked 
 with silver was very commonly seen in the dresses of 
 the peasants, and every turban had its bunch of roses 
 or other flowers. The noise of voices was louder than 
 is usual in scenes of the kind ; for the passing of 
 camels and loaded asses through the crowd called forth 
 continually the warning voice of the driver. The 
 women had their children tied on their backs, and 
 these, with the gay colour of their dresses and their 
 heads ornamented with coins, contributed their part 
 to the general picturesque effect. 
 
 For about forty-five miles up the valley, the country 
 varied little in either its geological or botanical fea- 
 tures. The hills on the northern side, which rise at
 
 278 SOUTH OF LYDIA. 
 
 times many hundred feet, are formed of gravel and 
 sand, slightly held together by partial drippings through 
 lime, which have produced a cement ; this peculiarity 
 has caused the caverns, which are seen in numbers, 
 and are said to extend far into the hills. The strata of 
 this formation are for the most part perfectly hori- 
 zontal, and appear to have been left by an earlier bed 
 of the river. These hills, worn and broken down by 
 time, are now standing cut into sections, and sloping 
 in every variety of conical shape to the valley. The 
 Meander winds on the other side of the plain, about 
 six or eight miles from the road. 
 
 In the evening of Sunday, the 6th of May, I pitched 
 my tent at Goojak, a town built like Idin upon the 
 slope of the range of hills. On the other side of the 
 valley I had a distant view of the ruins of the ancient 
 Antiocheia, hanging over the river Mosynus, and com- 
 manding the entrance of its valley. On the banks of 
 the Mosynus, higher up the valley, are also the ruins 
 of the city of Aphrodisius. 
 
 During the whole day we have had fruit-trees on 
 either side ; and, indeed, this is the orchard of Asia 
 Minor, whence the boasted figs and raisins of Smyrna 
 are chiefly obtained. Among the flowers there was no 
 species to add to my list except the hollyhock.
 
 279 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 PART OF THE WEST OF PHRYGIA. 
 
 Caroura Valley of the Lycus Laodiceia Remains Hierapolis its 
 Ruins Curious Hot-springs Vultures. 
 
 May 8th. FROM Goojak the valley of the Mseander 
 somewhat changes its character, having a more sandy 
 and poorer soil, without trees, and with few pastures 
 and little cultivation. The hills are formed of the 
 sand from the rocks of micaceous schist, which glit- 
 ters on the arid and stony level plain. The river now 
 approaches the northern side of the valley, and its 
 course is marked by the verdure of the neighbouring 
 swamps ; the stream is deep and rapid, contained in 
 high banks, or sunk in its own channel ; its water is of 
 a red colour, and its size is about that of the Moselle. 
 
 At a house at which I stopped I saw a slice of a 
 fish which is frequently taken in this river ; it is 
 without scales, round in form, and nearly a foot in 
 thickness. I am told that it is generally taken weigh- 
 ing as much as one hundred, and sometimes one hun- 
 dred and fifty pounds (fifty okes). It has a large 
 mouth, of the common form, and unlike that of the
 
 280 WEST OF PHRYGIA. 
 
 sturgeon. Does the conger eel ever attain this size? 
 This part of the river must, allowing for its windings, 
 be two hundred miles from the sea, and the water of 
 course is always fresh. 
 
 The sandy hills became now more and more varied 
 in colour, being by turns red, perfectly white, and 
 brown ; as we advanced, they receded, and the plain 
 stretched into a comparatively open country. Crossing 
 the valley, we left Ghera, the ancient Caroura, on the 
 right, and after a long ride arrived at Caracooe, which 
 stands at the foot of the hills on the southern side. 
 These furnish a plentiful supply of water for irri- 
 gating the land, which in consequence is generally 
 under cultivation, although a very light sandy soil. 
 
 A ride of sixteen miles up the valley of the Lycus 
 brought us to Laodiceia, now called Esky-Hissa. A 
 place of the same name (which means Old Castle) 
 stood on the hills to our left, half way from Idin; 
 it is called in the map Sultan, and its site is indicated 
 by a burial-ground by the road-side, filled with old 
 wrought stones. The way to Laodiceia was over per- 
 fectly barren sand-hills, with no trace of vegetation; 
 the views were limited by the series of rounded hills, 
 and there was nothing to vary the dreary ride but a 
 flock of bustards, upon which we came suddenly; we 
 had no ball, and our shot only tickled them. As we 
 advanced towards the ruins of the ancient city which 
 stand upon these sterile hills, we saw hovering over a 
 ravine before us three or four eagles, and on coming to
 
 LAODICEIA. 281 
 
 the spot we disturbed a grand assemblage of them. I 
 counted nearly a hundred, of which eight or ten were 
 large and black, the others the smaller white eagle, or 
 rather vulture, one of which we shot. Among the tombs 
 of the now deserted city we saw the object which had 
 attracted this winged party, the bones of a camel 
 picked nearly clean ; the guests, who were now watch- 
 ing us from the hills around, only waited our departure 
 to renew the feast : they seemed to be the only living 
 creatures that ever visit the spot, except the cutters 
 of gravestones, who have quarries of white marble 
 wherever the remains of a temple are to be found. 
 
 All the buildings of this city are constructed of an 
 extremely coarse conglomerate or petrified mass, and 
 the cornices and ornamental parts alone are of marble 
 or other fine stone. I saw many remains of thin slabs 
 of marble for lining or covering the walls, still par- 
 tially retaining the cement which attached them. This 
 town is said to have been destroyed or injured several 
 times by earthquakes; but the hills on which it stands 
 do not show any signs of volcanic changes; indeed 
 the alluvial strata throughout the whole of these hills 
 are so horizontal and undisturbed that they can scarcely 
 afford any subject of interest to the geologist, although 
 combined with rock, and bearing cities upon them 
 which are among the earliest in history. The change 
 which is taking place, by their being washed down into 
 the valley, is rapid only when viewed by a geologist. 
 There is no trace of any volcanic matter in the stones
 
 282 WEST OF PHRYGIA. 
 
 carried down by the streams, which are all either of 
 white marble or micaceous schist brought from the high 
 mountains which peer over these hills on either side of 
 the broad valley. 
 
 At the entrance to the old city stand the massy re- 
 mains of a bridge, of which the uncemented stones 
 have been shaken apart in a most singular manner, to 
 be accounted for only by attributing it to an earth- 
 quake. A paved road leads to a triple-arched entrance 
 to the city; but in the immense space which was oc- 
 cupied by it, and is now covered with its ruins, I 
 could satisfactorily distinguish only a few of the ancient 
 buildings. There are two theatres cut from the side of 
 the hill, of which the seats still remain tolerably per- 
 fect, the proscenia being heaps of ruins. The one facing 
 the east has been extremely handsome, with seats all of 
 marble, supported by lions' paws. Many of the seats 
 had initials cut rudely upon them, and in different 
 Greek characters, probably marking the seats as indi- 
 vidual property. Several temples may be traced by 
 their foundations ; but the principal remains are the 
 vast silent walls, which must have been built about the 
 time of the Romans and Christians, although their pur- 
 pose is involved in much doubt : for churches they are 
 inapplicable, and in the places in which I have before 
 noticed them such remains would be improbable. There 
 is little trace of the architecture and ornament of 
 churches ; and but few tombs are to be seen which ap- 
 pear by their carvings to be of Christian date.
 
 LAODICEIA. 283 
 
 Up the valley towards the south-east stands Mount 
 Cadmus, and I heard that at its foot, about twelve 
 miles from Laodiceia, there were considerable ruins, 
 probably of the ancient city of Colossse. Descending 
 rapidly into the flat and swampy vaUey of the Lycus, 
 we crossed in a diagonal line to the city of Hierapolis, 
 six or seven miles from Laodiceia. My attention had 
 been attracted at twenty miles' distance by the singular 
 appearance of its hill, upon which there appeared to be 
 perfectly white streams poured down its sides ; and this 
 peculiarity may have been the attraction which first led 
 to the city being built there. The waters, which rise 
 in copious streams from several deep springs among 
 the ruins, and are also to be found in small rivulets for 
 twenty miles around, are tepid, and to appearance per- 
 fectly pure ; indeed I never saw more transparent water, 
 although I perceived at a depth of perhaps twenty feet 
 a dark green hue visible between the surface and the 
 white marble of the columns and Corinthian ornaments 
 which lay at the bottom. Gas continually rises in 
 bubbles, emitting the noxious smell of hydrogen. This 
 pure and warm water is no sooner exposed to the air, 
 than it rapidly deposits a pearly white substance upon 
 the channel through which it flows, and on every 
 blade of grass in its course ; and thus, after filling its 
 bed, it flows over, leaving a substance which I can 
 only compare to the brain-coral, a kind of crust or 
 feeble crystallization ; again it is flooded by a fresh 
 stream, and again is formed another perfectly white
 
 284 WEST OF PHRYGIA. 
 
 coat. The streams of water, thus leaving a deposit 
 by which they are choked up, and over which they 
 again flow, have raised the whole surface of the ground 
 fifteen or twenty feet, forming masses of this shelly 
 stone in ridges which impede the paths, as well as 
 conceal and render it difficult to trace out the foun- 
 dations of buildings. The deposit has the appearance 
 of a salt, but it is tasteless, and to the touch is like 
 the shell of the cuttle-fish. These streams have flowed 
 on for ages, and the hills are coated over with their 
 deposit of a filmy, semitransparent appearance, looking 
 like half-melted snow suddenly frozen. 
 
 The town stands upon the high cliff, over which these 
 streams fall in cascades, commanding a fine view of the 
 valley, and has many of the picturesque advantages 
 which would be sought in a modern watering-place ; 
 the mountains rise up at the back, and wooded ravines 
 offer shade for summer rambles. The ruins are crowded 
 and extensive ; and here again are some remains unac- 
 countable from their immense proportions : in this 
 place they might be taken to have been baths, but I 
 still incline to the idea that they were palaces. The 
 theatre has been richly ornamented, and many of the 
 cornices so much as to impair their simplicity and 
 beauty ; these, together with most of the groups of 
 figures, bear the traces of an age more devoted to 
 luxury than pure taste. The inscriptions found here 
 have been copied by others. The stone used in build- 
 ing is the conglomerate of the neighbourhood.
 
 HIERAPOLIS. 285 
 
 A singular effect is seen upon the square pillars of 
 a colonnade standing on each side of a court-yard of 
 the palace ; they are formed of chips of marble of all 
 sizes, held together by a matrix of reddish stone, similar 
 to what we call scagliola. Time or an earthquake has 
 warped them, and they now stand in curves, bulging 
 out in various directions, without any fracture. A kind 
 of tomb is found here which I have not observed else- 
 where, a distinct temple or house, probably a place of 
 mourning for the friends of the deceased interred be- 
 neath. These tombs are numerous on each side of the 
 town. Buildings such as these may have been referred 
 to when, in the time of our Saviour, persons are spoken 
 of as dwelling among the tombs. 
 
 Descending from the ruins we proceeded across the 
 plain towards the valley of the Mseander; and after we 
 had ridden about twelve miles, night coming on, we 
 pitched our tent. 
 
 I have mentioned that we killed a vulture this morn 
 ing at Laodiceia. It was shot at about nine o'clock, 
 and at the time was washing itself in a stream after its 
 hearty meal upon the dead camel. It was wounded 
 in the head and neck, and dropped immediately ; but 
 upon taking it up, its talons closed on the hand of my 
 servant, making him cry out with pain. He placed it 
 on the ground, and I stood with my whole weight upon 
 its back, pressing the breast-bone against the rock, 
 when its eye gradually closed, its hold relaxed, and to 
 all appearance life became extinct. It was then packed
 
 286 WEST OF PHRYGIA. 
 
 up in my leather hood, and strapped behind the saddle. 
 The day was oppressively hot, for we trod upon our 
 shadows as we rode across the plain. Until this even- 
 ing (at eleven o'clock) the vulture remained tightly 
 bound behind the saddle. My servant, on unpacking, 
 threw the bundle containing it into the tent, while he 
 prepared boiling water for cleaning and skinning it. 
 Intending to examine this noble bird more carefully, I 
 untied the package, and what was my surprise to see 
 it raise its head and fixed its keen eye upon me ! 
 I immediately placed my feet upon its back, holding 
 by the top of the tent, and leaning all my weight 
 upon it; but with a desperate struggle it spread out 
 its wings, which reached across the tent, and by 
 beating them attempted to throw me off. My shouts 
 soon brought Demetrius, who at length killed it by 
 blows upon the head with the butt end of his gun. 
 My ignorance of the extreme tenacity of life of this 
 bird must exculpate me from the charge of cruelty.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 LYDIA. 
 
 Anegho61 Philadelphia Opium-gathering Sardis its Remains 
 Cavalcades of Travellers Camels Cassabcf Return to Smyrna 
 RETEOSPECT The People Climate Scenery. 
 
 YESTERDAY, May the 8th, we crossed at a scarcely ford- 
 able place the river Lycus, which brings down a white 
 milky water, apparently from a limy country. We 
 now had to cross the Mseander near the ruins of the 
 ancient Tripolis, and gradually ascended a valley or 
 ravine, leaving the post-town of Bulladan on the left. 
 After passing a picturesque series of hills and deep 
 rocky beds of small rivers, we entered the valley formed 
 by the Cagamus, in which stands Philadelphia. 
 
 We slept at Aneghool, distant from Hierapolis about 
 fifty miles, and this morning proceeded sixteen miles 
 further to Philadelphia. The soil in the valley is ex- 
 tremely poor, but by irrigation crops of barley are 
 obtained. 
 
 A new feature has appeared in the landscape ; the 
 fields of opium are all in bloom, forming a very beau- 
 tiful object ; but these flowers are not so gay as our
 
 288 LYDIA. 
 
 garden poppies. They are all luxuriant plants of 
 the single poppy, three feet high, their colours being 
 white, lilac, and purple, in nearly equal proportions. 
 The business of collecting the opium has just com- 
 menced. The green seed-pod is wounded or scratched 
 with a delicate point, when the milky sap exudes ; this 
 is afterwards collected by scraping, and a purifying 
 process is all that is then required to produce the 
 opium fit for the market. The work is chiefly done 
 by women, a delicate hand being required throughout 
 the process ; and as the whole harvest may be de- 
 stroyed by a shower, the crop is a precarious one. 
 The entire produce is monopolized by the Government 
 at a fixed price, and the sale of opium is not allowed 
 in any part of the country. 
 
 Of the ancient city of Philadelphia but little remains ; 
 its walls are still standing, inclosing several hills, upon 
 the sides of which stood the town, but they are fallen 
 into ruins. They are built of unhewn stone, massed 
 and cemented together with fragments of old buildings ; 
 some immense remains of buildings, huge square stone 
 pillars, supporting brick arches, are also standing, and 
 are called the ruins of the Christian church. All the re- 
 mains which have been pointed out to me as ruins of 
 Christian churches appear to have been vast temples, 
 perhaps erected by imperial command, and dedicated 
 to nominal Christianity, but showing, in the niches and 
 brackets for statues and architectural ornaments, traces 
 of heathen superstition.
 
 SARDIS. 289 
 
 Descending the valley, which widened as it joined 
 that of the Hermus, after a ride of thirty-six miles we 
 arrived at Sart, the ancient Sardis, the last of the Seven 
 Churches that I had yet to see. Its situation is very 
 beautiful, but the country over which it looks is now 
 almost deserted, and the valley is become a swamp. 
 Its little rivers of clear water, after turning a mill or 
 two, serve only to flood instead of draining and beauti- 
 fying the country. On the principal of these streams, 
 the Pactolus, at the distance of a mile from the city, 
 stand the remains of a colossal temple, the proportions 
 of which resemble those of Agrigentum ; but it is very 
 doubtful if this was ever completed, for though two 
 columns of the Ionic order remain standing, and the 
 ruins of four others, these are the only parts left to 
 record the vastness of such a fallen temple ; the co- 
 lumns also are prepared for fluting, but have never 
 been cut ; and the ornaments of the capitals differ 
 from each other, and appear not wholly finished. Do 
 these unfinished fragments indicate the period when 
 Pagan art expired before Christianity ? The remains of 
 this city vary much in date ; the early part, containing 
 a theatre, stadium and temples, may be readily traced, 
 but the masses of wall composing the rest of the city 
 speak with certainty only of its extent; one, the largest, 
 of these piles of buildings must have been a palace, 
 consisting of distinct, long rooms with circular ends. 
 The earth which has fallen from the crumbling hills 
 above has buried great part of the buildings of the city.
 
 290 LYDIA. 
 
 Two or three small bridges, from their architecture, 
 appear to be of an early date. 
 
 Among the ruins is seen the beautiful arum, or snake 
 plant, as this species is here called, from the appearance 
 of its stem: it grows to an enormous size; there is 
 one near the spot where I am now standing eight feet 
 high. No description or even painting can represent 
 the exceedingly velvet-like richness of the crimson or 
 damson colour of the calyx and petal ; it is one of the 
 most splendid of plants. The scent is far from agree- 
 able, filling the air with the smell of rats. While 
 standing perfectly still, sketching this plant, I have been 
 amused by watching the tortoises basking by the water- 
 side ; seven or eight little ones have been playing upon 
 the back of their mother, crawling up and down, and 
 fighting for the most elevated part of her shell ; but 
 upon my making the slightest movement, they scam- 
 pered down the bank and dived into their secure re- 
 treat. 
 
 Opposite to the town, and at the distance of three 
 or four miles across the valley and river, are the cu- 
 rious mounds of earth which are said to be the tombs 
 of the kings of Lydia, and near them is the lake of 
 Gygaeus. These mounds are in great numbers the 
 whole length of this valley, and many are of stratified 
 earth, whence it must be very doubtful if they be tu- 
 muli. I have taken drawings of several of them. 
 
 Twenty-eight miles further down the same valley is 
 the modern town of Cassaba, which lies on the regular
 
 SARDIS TO SMYRNA. 
 
 291 
 
 caravan route between the interior of the country and 
 Smyrna. On overtaking the long cavalcades of a go- 
 vernor or wealthy person, which generally consist of 
 thirty or forty fine horses richly caparisoned, my 
 servant always rode forward to ask permission to be 
 allowed to pass ; this being granted, I proceeded, re- 
 ceiving as I passed a most kind but dignified salutation 
 of welcome as a stranger. 
 
 It is amusing to see this moving establishment of 
 luxuries, one horse loaded with long pipe-cases, an- 
 other with carpets and rugs ; and the wife or children 
 follow in an equipage, which I must describe by a 
 sketch. 
 
 The animal, which is commonly a mule, is led : it 
 carries two panniers, in which are the passengers, in- 
 closed in a tent of white calico, fringed and ornamented 
 with red, upon poles fixed to the panniers ; there are 
 
 u2
 
 292 LYDIA. 
 
 small eye-holes behind and in front, which I observed 
 were much used ; a light ladder, used for mounting and 
 dismounting, is suspended from one of the poles. These 
 conveyances give a peculiar effect to the cavalcade, 
 which is in keeping with the costume of the multitude 
 of servants in attendance. 
 
 Strings of camels are continually passing, each com- 
 prising about forty-five, and headed by a man upon an 
 ass who leads the first, the others being mostly con- 
 nected by slight cords. It is a beautiful sight to see 
 the perfect training and docility of these animals. The 
 caravans, as the weather is becoming warmer, are be- 
 ginning to travel by night, generally halting at about 
 ten or eleven o'clock in the morning. The care of the 
 camels seems to be very much left to the children. I 
 have just watched a string of them stopping on an open 
 plain : a child twitched the cord suspended from the 
 head of the first; a loud gurgling growl indicated the 
 pleasure of the camel as it awkwardly knelt down, and 
 the child, who could just reach its back, unlinked the 
 hooks which suspended from either side the bales of 
 cotton ; another child came with a bowl of water and 
 sponge, and was welcomed by a louder roar of pleasure 
 as it washed the mouth and nostrils of the animal. 
 This grateful office ended, the liberated camel wandered 
 off to the thicket, to browse during the day ; and this 
 was done to each of the forty-five, which all unbidden 
 had knelt down precisely as the one I have described, 
 forming a circle which continued marked during the
 
 SMYRNA. 293 
 
 day by the bales of goods lying at regular distances. 
 On a given signal in the afternoon, at about three 
 o'clock, every camel resumed its own place, and knelt 
 between its bales, which were again attached, and the 
 caravan proceeded on its tardy course. I am not sur- 
 prised at finding the strong attachment of these animals 
 to the children ; for I have often seen three or four of 
 them, when young, lying with their heads inside a tent 
 in the midst of the sleeping children, while their long 
 bodies remained outside. 
 
 From Cassaba a ride of forty-eight miles through a 
 beautifully varied and picturesque country brought us 
 again to Smyrna, called by the Turks Ismeer, on the 
 evening of Saturday, the 12th of May. 
 
 SMYRNA, Sunday morning, May 13th. I quite enjoy 
 to be again sitting on a chair, with a table before me, 
 and shall spend this day of rest in thinking over the 
 interest and pleasure of the past three months. My 
 first feeling on making the retrospect cannot but be 
 gratitude that I have escaped even the slightest acci- 
 dent, on a journey of three thousand miles, through a 
 country little travelled, and in which there are neither 
 carriages nor roads. 
 
 How soon is a new habit acquired ! I have just been 
 observing a party of Europeans on their way to church ; 
 the men tightly swathed in their clothes, the ladies
 
 294 LYDIA. 
 
 with their stiffened silk, hound down in plaits, huge 
 bonnets, artificial flowers placed erect, and discordant 
 colours, seemed to me deformities compared with the 
 natural, easy and graceful costume to which three 
 months' intimacy has attached me. 
 
 How different are now my feelings towards the 
 Turks, from those uncharitable prejudices with which 
 I looked upon them on my first arrival at this place ! 
 To their manners, habits, and character, equally as to 
 their costume, I am become not only reconciled, but 
 sincerely attached ; for I have found truth, honesty and 
 kindness, the most estimable and amiable qualities, in 
 a people among whom I so little looked for them. 
 
 The pervading character of this people is their en- 
 tire devotion to their religion. It forms the civil as 
 well as moral law ; and instead of being interrupted by 
 worldly business and interests, is indissolubly associated 
 with the occupations of every hour of the day, and 
 every action of the life. Prayer is with them universal, 
 and peculiar to no place, sought equally in the field 
 and chamber as in the mosque. Every one pursues 
 his own devotions, independently of a priesthood, 
 (which here does not exist,) with perfect simplicity and 
 without ostentation. The character, habits, customs, 
 manners, health, and whole life of the people appear 
 formed by their religion. I have not read the Koran, 
 and my judgement of the religion is therefore formed 
 from its professors, who appear indeed to be not mere 
 professors. That the religion regulates all civil rela-
 
 SMYRNA. 295 
 
 tions and duties, I have been constantly made aware 
 by the replies to my questions, why this thing, or 
 that thing was done ; the invariable answer being, that 
 their religion commanded it. The law and the re- 
 ligion, being one, are taught together to the children 
 from their infancy ; and on any breach of the duties 
 thus inculcated, the Sultan's power to punish is abso- 
 lute, and its exercise sure. 
 
 The feature in the character of the people which first 
 presents itself to the stranger and sojourner among 
 them, is hospitality. They are indeed given to hospi- 
 tality. It was proffered to me by all ranks, from the 
 Pasha to the peasant in his tent among the moun- 
 tains, and was tendered as a thing of course, without 
 the idea of any return being made. No question was 
 asked ; distinction of nation or religion, of rich and 
 poor, was not thought of; but " feed the stranger" was 
 the universal law. 
 
 Their honesty next strikes the traveller. It was my 
 constant habit to leave on the outside of my tent the 
 saddles, bridles, cooking apparatus, and everything not 
 required within, where I and my servant slept without 
 the least fear of losing anything, although persons were 
 passing by and gratifying their curiosity by examining 
 my property. I never lost even a piece of string. On 
 noticing this to my servant, a Greek, he excused the 
 honesty of the Turks by saying that their religion did 
 not allow them to steal. There is sufficient temptation 
 to offend, in the dresses commonly worn by the women
 
 296 LYDIA. 
 
 and children, richly embroidered with the current gold 
 coin of the country ; but the law, " Thou shalt not 
 steal," seems to receive from them implicit and uni- 
 versal obedience. 
 
 Truth, the twin sister of honesty, is equally con- 
 spicuous in them ; and here again the Greek apologizes 
 for them, " The Mahometan dares not lie ; his religion 
 forbids it." 
 
 The national custom, which makes it the privilege 
 of the son to do the offices of an attendant to his father, 
 instils into the character of the people the duty of ho- 
 nouring parents. In every relation and circumstance 
 in which I saw them, in their families and among 
 strangers, love and kindness to one another seemed to 
 prevail : sincerity banishes suspicion, and honesty and 
 candour beget openness in all their dealings. 
 
 In obedience to their religion, which, like the Jewish 
 law, forbids taking interest for money, they abstain 
 from carrying on many lucrative trades connected with 
 the lending of money. Hence other nations, generally 
 the Armenians, act as their bankers. 
 
 From their religious devotion they derive a submis- 
 sion to the Divine Will so entire, that it has drawn 
 upon them the misrepresentation of being Fatalists. To 
 prevent evil they are as earnest as others : I have seen 
 them using all their efforts to extinguish fires ; and 
 have often been solicited by them for medicine, and 
 they eagerly receive advice to check illness : but if the 
 fire cannot be arrested, they submit, and say, " God is
 
 SMYRNA. 297 
 
 great !" and if the malady terminate in death, though 
 of a child or parent, the nervous eye alone shows the 
 working of the heart, and the body is committed to the 
 grave with the submissive reflection, " God is great 
 and merciful !" 
 
 The permission given by the Mahometan law to po- 
 lygamy is one of the serious charges brought against 
 the moral character of its professors. But though the 
 law allows several wives, it is a liberty of which the 
 people seldom take advantage. I have seen in thou- 
 sands of instances the Turk in his tent, with his one 
 wife, appearing as constant in his attachment to her 
 as a peasant of a Christian country. It is in the 
 palaces of the rich and great alone that, in the midst of 
 luxury and state, many wives are assembled. 
 
 Before I visited this people I fancied their character 
 was cruel ; but so far from finding proofs of this, I 
 have noticed that their treatment of the brute creation, 
 as well as of one another, is peculiarly the reverse. 
 Instruments of punishment for beasts of burden are 
 scarcely known. Their only influence over the camel 
 is obtained by kindness and rewards, and its obedi- 
 ence is most complete. The absence of fear in all 
 birds and beasts is very striking to an European, and 
 is alone sufficient to exculpate the Turks from this 
 charge. 
 
 To the abstinence of this people from wine, the pe- 
 culiar law of Mahomet, is perhaps to be attributed very 
 much of their moral as well as physical health. The
 
 298 LYDIA. 
 
 stream of intemperance, which would undermine the 
 pure principles of conduct above adverted to, is thus 
 totally arrested. The physical result of this law is 
 strikingly manifest in the absence of cripples, and the 
 general exemption of the Turks from illness ; toothache 
 being almost the only ill, to which they are often sub- 
 ject. One of the moral benefits of temperance may be 
 traced in the exemption of the people from abject po- 
 verty. I have seen no beggars except the blind, and 
 few persons looking very poor. The people's wants, 
 which are few, are generally well supplied ; and in 
 every tent there is a meal for the stranger, whatever 
 be his condition. I have never seen a Turk under 
 the influence of opium ; and I believe that the use of 
 this stimulant is confined to the licentious inhabitants 
 of the capital. 
 
 Does not Christian Europe stand rebuked before 
 these faithful followers of the false Prophet ? Were we 
 as devoted to our religion as the Mahometans are to 
 theirs, what a heaven upon earth would our lands be ! 
 The superstitions, and the total want of morality in 
 the professors of the Greek Church, may well deter 
 the Turks from seeking to change their faith. The dis- 
 ciples of the Greek Church frequently become fol- 
 lowers of the Prophet when it will forward their com- 
 mercial or political success ; but there is scarcely ever 
 an instance of the conversion of a Turk to what is 
 called Christianity. At Constantinople I attended the 
 Church of England service, which was admirably per-
 
 SMYRNA. 299 
 
 formed by an English Missionary. The clergyman's 
 family, and one Armenian, with myself, formed the 
 whole congregation. 
 
 My intimacy with the character of the Turks, which 
 had led me to think so highly of their moral excellence, 
 has not given me the same favourable impression of 
 the development of their mental powers. Their refine- 
 ment is of the manners and affections ; there is little 
 cultivation or activity of mind among them. Their 
 personal cleanliness, the richness and taste of their 
 costume, and the natural delicacy of all their customs 
 are very remarkable. In society they are always per- 
 fectly at their ease ; and among the peasantry I noticed 
 none of the sheepishness so often exhibited by rustics 
 in the presence of superiors. 
 
 Their modes of expression are very figurative. When 
 their conversation was translated to me by my inter- 
 preter, I could have fancied myself listening to the 
 " Arabian Nights," the language was so poetic, and so 
 often enriched with proverbs and peculiar forms of ex- 
 pression. I will instance one, of which I noticed the fre- 
 quent use, and which is very characteristic of this people. 
 On parting with a Turk, to whom by several days' com- 
 panionship and exchange of kindness I had become 
 attached, the wish which I should express at parting 
 would be, that we might meet again ; he would say, 
 " Mountains never meet, but men may !" I do not 
 regret not having studied the language, for I expe- 
 rienced no inconvenience in conversing through my
 
 300 LYDIA. 
 
 dragoman. The literal translation of an interpreter, 
 familiar with the expressions of the country and the 
 forms of etiquette of the people, is, I think, the best 
 mode of attaining a ready intercourse with them. The 
 Mahometan never speaks a foreign language, and there- 
 fore does not expect that a stranger should do so. 
 
 Having noted my observations on the manners and 
 character of the people, it now only remains for me to 
 put down the remarks which present themselves to my 
 memory, on the climate of the country and the features 
 of the scenery of its several districts. 
 
 As I selected the coolest season for my tour, any re- 
 marks that I make on the climate must in part be de- 
 rived from other sources than my personal experience. 
 Nor can they at once apply to the whole of the country, 
 as the various elevations present winter and ripening 
 summer within one day's journey. 
 
 If a line be drawn upon the map to include the ele- 
 vated table-land of the interior^and the field of burnt 
 or volcanic production, it will precisely trace the boun- 
 daries of the ancient Phrygia on the north, the west, 
 and the south ; following even the singular forms in 
 which it projects into the districts of Caria, Lycia, and 
 Pamphylia. This circumstance leads me to imagine 
 that the name of Phrygia may have been connected 
 with the climate and nature of the soil. The cold from
 
 SMYRNA. 301 
 
 the great elevation is so severe, that no plants are to be 
 seen but such as are found in the Highlands of Scot- 
 land, where they suffer less from severity of climate 
 than here. The summer in this high land must be of 
 very short duration, for the corn was not sown in April, 
 and is frequently gathered amid the snow in October. 
 
 On descending from this elevated country, every di- 
 versity of climate is met with, till the traveller reaches 
 the productive valleys of the rivers and the warmer lands 
 on the coast. But at the present season (the month of 
 May), atSardis, Cassaba, and here (Smyrna), the women 
 still retain their fur- lined jackets, and the merchants 
 their fur cloaks. During the summer the heat becomes 
 intense as the morning advances, but before noon a 
 land breeze is drawn down from the cold mountain 
 country, which brings a refreshing coolness, with the 
 shade of clouds, and not unfrequently flying showers. 
 In the early part of the evening the heat again becomes 
 oppressive : the dews are very heavy. 
 
 To the intense cold of the winter it must be attributed, 
 that neither the aloe nor the cactus, nor any succulent 
 plant, is to be seen in the country ; the frosts would 
 destroy them. The orange- and lemon-trees are with 
 difficulty preserved in the sheltered valleys; the olive 
 seldom nourishes in a similar situation ; and they are 
 all far inferior in growth to those of Sicily, Calabria, or 
 Greece. The country is supplied with oranges and 
 many other fruits from the island of Crete. The ex- 
 tremes of the seasons are further shown by the migra-
 
 302 LYDIA. 
 
 tion in the animal kingdom, which takes place to a 
 great degree. 
 
 The remarks contained in this Journal upon the geo- 
 logical character of each district may have given some 
 idea of its superficial appearance, but I will attempt a 
 general sketch of the country for the lover of the pic- 
 turesque. The scenery of Lydia and Mysia is varied 
 and beautiful, its hills being well wooded, with splendid 
 forest- trees. In the forms of the mountains there is 
 more of beauty than grandeur ; and the peculiar feature 
 is the great contrast or division between the hills and 
 valleys ; the latter being so level as to appear formed by 
 lakes. In Bithynia the scenery is of a bolder character; 
 its fine mountain range of Olympus giving to it a re- 
 semblance to Switzerland ; its valleys are also rich, with 
 luxuriant woods. The flat-topped hills and immense 
 table-lands of Phrygia, from their great elevation, often 
 swampy and seldom bearing a tree, present more of 
 the wild and dreary than of the picturesque. Pisidia, 
 including the Taurus range, again partakes with Bithy- 
 nia of the Alpine character, but the woods in this di- 
 strict are not so finely grown. The extreme beauty of 
 Pamphylia is derived more from distant effects than 
 near views. The marble mountains which form the 
 distant horizon shoot their jagged peaks of silvery rock, 
 or capped with snow, against the clear sky, while their 
 bases are washed by the blue ocean which they inclose 
 in their wide-stretched arms. Lycia is more moun- 
 tainous, and resembles, but far exceeds in the boldness
 
 SMYRNA. 303 
 
 of its cliffs and the richness of its vegetation, the sce- 
 nery of Parnassus. Its valleys, and particularly that of 
 the Xanthus, are of peculiar beauty. Caria abounds 
 in scenery of the most picturesque kind, its coast being 
 broken into bold headlands, whose ranges, continued into 
 the sea, rise in rocky islands. The south-east of Lydia 
 is less beautiful, and much resembles Sicily or Calabria; 
 but on approaching Smyrna this district has valleys 
 equal to those near Salerno or Naples. The artist visit- 
 ing Asia Minor would be richly rewarded.
 
 304 
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 
 
 REMARKS FOR THE GUIDANCE OF TRAVELLERS. 
 
 HOPING that some of my friends may be induced to 
 visit this interesting country, I shall give a few hints 
 as to the machinery of travelling, which may be found 
 of use to them. A tent is the first requisite, the old 
 cities and places of the greatest interest being fre- 
 quently distant from the modern towns or khans ; and 
 a good tent makes the traveller quite independent of 
 the state of health of the town, which I found a very 
 important advantage. It is desirable that the tent 
 should be of a waterproof material. I found great use 
 in an oil-cloth hammock, which was occasionally slung 
 from pole to pole, but always of service to spread under 
 my mattress when the ground was wet. A carpet may 
 be procured in the country, but a mattress must be 
 taken ; also a canteen, containing the usual requisites 
 for cooking and for making tea, and a lantern. Arrow- 
 root is the most portable and convenient material for 
 the traveller's store ; it may be prepared in five mi- 
 nutes, and a basin of this will stay the appetite until the
 
 SMYRNA. 305 
 
 dinner can be prepared, which, what with pitching the 
 tent, lighting the fire (often with green-wood), and the 
 process of cooking, must be frequently delayed an hour 
 or two after the traveller halts. Rice is necessary, and 
 tea a great treasure. 
 
 I have always found the convenience of carrying a 
 gimblet among my travelling stores ; it is a substitute 
 for nail, hook, and hammer : inserted into the wall it 
 forms a peg by which my clothes are frequently kept 
 from the dirty or damp floor, or to which I can hang 
 my glass, watch, or thermometer. The traveller will 
 of course be prepared with every requisite for the tailor, 
 and will take a few simple medicines. 
 
 For ceconomy in travelling it is well to take only five 
 or six horses ; if this number be exceeded, another 
 guide is required, and the pay to the ostlers is in- 
 creased. The traveller who wishes to pay liberally 
 and be well attended by the post, must calculate that 
 five horses will cost him, with these extra payments, 
 as much as seven ; and this sum will cover all expenses 
 on the road to guides, ostlers, etc., amounting to seven 
 piastres per hour, or about four miles. On the ordi- 
 nary lines of road he may travel three hours in two, 
 being six miles an hour ; this saves time, but the ex- 
 pense is the same. However proficient the European 
 traveller may be in the Turkish language, I should re- 
 commend his taking a servant who can act as drago- 
 man, as he will be thus enabled far better to understand 
 and fall into the manners and customs of the people. 
 
 x
 
 30G LYDIA. 
 
 The most acceptable presents to the inhabitants are 
 not such as are of the greatest intrinsic value, but ar- 
 ticles of use which it is difficult for them to procure. 
 The traveller will do well to supply himself with copper 
 caps for the people in authority who have had per- 
 cussion guns given to them, but which are rendered 
 useless from the want of these, and also gunpowder for 
 the peasantry : by all classes a sheet of writing-paper 
 is much valued ; leads for patent pencil-cases are very 
 acceptable ; and a common box-compass will furnish 
 much pleasure, occasionally directing the Mahometan 
 to the point for his prayers. I have been often asked 
 in a delicate manner by the Greeks if I possessed a 
 picture of our queen or reigning sovereign ; a common 
 print of this kind would be highly prized. 
 
 The traveller sleeping in a room without glazed win- 
 dows, in a tent, or on the floor, will find the bed which 
 I will attempt to describe a great treasure. For the 
 plan of this bed I was many years ago indebted to my 
 friend Mr. Godfrey Levinge, and have ever since by 
 its use been rendered independent of all the insect 
 world. The gnats, flies, beetles, etc., never agreeable 
 even if harmless, are constantly attracted by the light 
 of the candles or the warmth of the mattress ; and 
 this simple contrivance I have found the only plan for 
 preventing their intrusion. Thus insuring an undis- 
 turbed night, I have cared little for their attacks by 
 day. The whole apparatus may be compressed into a 
 hat-case. A pair of calico sheets (No. I.), six feet
 
 SMYRNA. 
 
 307 
 
 long, sewed together at the bottom and on both sides, 
 are continued with muslin of the same form and size 
 sewed to them at their open end (No. 2.), and this 
 
 muslin is drawn tightly together at the end with a 
 tape ; within this knot are three or four loose tapes 
 
 about eighteen inches long, with nooses at their ends, 
 through which, from within, a cane is threaded so as 
 
 x2
 
 308 LYDIA. 
 
 to form a circle, extending the muslin as a canopy, 
 which in this form is suspended. 
 
 These canes must be in three pieces, three feet long, 
 each fitting into the other with a socket or ferrule. 
 The entrance to the bed is by a neck (No. 3.), from the 
 lico, with a string to draw it tightly together when you 
 are within : it is desirable that the traveller should 
 enter this bed as he would a shower-bath, and having 
 his night-shirt within. When the end formed of muslin 
 is suspended, the bed forms an airy canopy in which 
 the occupant may stand up and dress in privacy, no 
 one being able to see him from without, while he can 
 observe all around. I have often, when annoyed by 
 insects, sat to read and write within this shelter in 
 the evening, with a candle placed near me. To pre- 
 vent accident from tearing the apparatus, I have found 
 that the best mode of entering was to keep the open- 
 ing on the middle of the mattress, and, standing in it, 
 to draw the bag-entrance over my head. The foregoing 
 sketch will, I think, supply the place of any further 
 description. 
 
 Before concluding these hints to travellers, I should 
 mention that the tourist in Asia Minor would do well 
 to reverse my route, commencing with the southern 
 country, and proceeding northwards as the warm sea- 
 son approaches. 
 
 It may also be useful to know, that on leaving this 
 country by way of Syra, a quarantine of three weeks 
 has to be performed at that port, which will enable the
 
 SMYRNA. 309 
 
 traveller to proceed to Athens or any part of Greece. 
 Another quarantine of fourteen days is required before 
 landing from that State in any other part of Europe. 
 The duration of the term in each country varies, 
 however, according to the state of health in the eastern 
 cities. This double quarantine may be avoided by pro- 
 ceeding at once to Malta, where one long imprisonment 
 will enable the traveller to enter freely any European 
 port.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 SINCE the completion of the printing of this JOURNAL, the 
 Author has been favoured with the following valuable Notes by 
 his friend Mr. James Yates. 
 
 " 49, Upper Bedford Place, London, 
 May 7th, 1839. 
 
 " MY DEAR SIR, In perusing your Volume I find that you 
 have adopted the translations I proposed for the various inscrip- 
 tions. I add a few remarks, which you may, if you please, use 
 in an Appendix. I observe also in your printed Journal before 
 me, several points highly interesting as connected with the il- 
 lustration of Greek and Oriental antiquities ; and I venture to 
 send you a few detached observations on them, which may 
 form a second Appendix. 
 
 I am, dear Sir, 
 
 Most truly yours, 
 
 JAMES YATES." 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Nos. I III.* Page 27. 
 From Soma, between Thyatira and Pergamus. 
 
 No. I. 
 6 
 
 * The numbers refer to the order of the Inscriptions.
 
 312 APPENDIX A. 
 
 /cat X/3ueratet9 r) 
 
 i) Tft) 
 
 pw e-TTOtTjo-av, /cat t- 
 atTOt9. 
 
 The ornamental form of the letters in this beautiful and perfect 
 tablet is very remarkable. 
 
 No, II. may perhaps be read thus : 
 
 eiSa? /cat Meva(X/ca9), i. e. Theudas and Menalcas. 
 Theudas was a contraction for Theodorus. 
 
 No. III. seems to contain the words ftveias %aptv, " for the 
 sake of remembrance." 
 
 No. IV. Page 28. 
 Near Soma. 
 
 T6) i&tw (re/cvft)) 
 e/c roov t8t<ov avrov 
 (/Av)eia? %aptv. 
 
 No. V. Page 30. 
 Near Pergamus. 
 
 ev av8 
 po (TarpaTrevovro- 
 
 9 67TI IItTTa/it09 IcT- 
 
 ayopov, Kparevas e- 
 Swicev 
 
 <J>vT(f) ry eTTt Kpareu- 
 a <f)VTev0VTf 6 Se TT-
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 313 
 
 pi(3o\o<; ea-Tiv -n?? e- 
 
 779 (TTTOpOV KVTTpWV IK- 
 
 arov e/38ofj,t]KovTa' 
 Kcti oiKOTreSa teat, KI\ 
 Se TOV Krj7ro(v) 
 
 KCKTTO(V) 
 eviavTov. 
 
 The following translation may perhaps convey the sense. 
 
 # * * * when Isagoras was satrap [or governor] over 
 Pittamis, Crateuas gave to Aristomenes this * * * * to 
 build upon it during the existence of any tree planted in the time 
 of Crateuas (the hedge of 170 cypresses was planted by him), both 
 houses and * * *. But the produce of the garden is golden 
 [or highly valuable] every year." 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 When Isagoras was satrap.'] According to Passow (Hand- 
 worterbuch], " Satrap" was a general term for a governor. 
 
 Pittamis.] We find from Stephanus Byzantinus and others 
 that there was a sea-port not far from Pergamus, called Pitane, 
 or Pitante. Probably the name was further varied, and one of 
 its forms may have been Pittamis. Steph. Byzantinus gives the 
 female gentile name Pitanitis, which would be regularly formed 
 from Pitanis. 
 
 During the existence of any tree planted in the time of Cra- 
 teuas.'] For want of a better explanation I have supposed this 
 grant to have been like a building-lease for lives. The duration 
 of a tree may have served for a term, as well as the life of a man 
 or a child. But I know of no ancient authority in support of 
 this conjecture. 
 
 The hedge.] An interesting fact is here proved, viz. the use 
 of the cypress for hedges in ancient times ; and the circumstance 
 seems here to be mentioned in a parenthesis, because, on the 
 foregoing supposition, the lease would not expire till all these 
 cypresses were dead.
 
 314 APPENDIX A. 
 
 No. VI. Page 31. 
 Near Pergamus. 
 
 This inscription is so complete, having been copied by 
 Mr. Fellows in the manner described at p. 27, that it is unne- 
 cessary to express it in the common Greek characters. The 
 letters between brackets are supplied, as they are destroyed in 
 the original marble. 
 
 Remarks on the Translation. 
 
 In the Treasurership of Demetrius.'] The ot/covo/tio?, i. e. the 
 Treasurer, or Steward, of a Greek city, was also called Ta/ua<?, as 
 is the case with Demetrius in this inscription. This office was 
 one of high rank and dignity, probably equal in dignity with 
 that of Archon. Josephus (Ant. Jud. lib. xi.) mentions together 
 the oiKovopot, and a/a^ovre? of cities, as if equal in importance. 
 See Schleusner, Lex. N. T. v. Oi/covo/io?. Belsham's Transla- 
 tion, etc. of Paul's Epistles, on Rom. xvi. 23. Demetrius may 
 have been so called from being dedicated to Ceres (A77/i?7T?7/3), 
 whose worship, as we learn from this inscription, was established 
 in the city of which Demetrius was Treasurer. 
 
 Relations by marriage.'] The word ya^peiajTi^j is not now 
 found in any author ; we can only form a conjecture respecting 
 its meaning. 
 
 Should then rise from the lamentation and go forth.] Ef av- 
 t<rrao-0cu, " to rise, or stand up from," is used here in a very 
 specific sense, which I do not find explained in any Lexicon. 
 It is illustrated by the language in Gen. xxiii. 3., speaking of 
 the ceremonies observed by Abraham in honour of his deceased 
 wife Sarah, " And Abraham stood up from before his dead ;" in 
 the LXX. Kal avecrrt] 'AySpaayu- airb rov ve/cpov avrov. This 
 denotes the termination of the process described in the pre- 
 ceding verse, Ko-^raa-6at "Zdppav Kal TrevBrja-ai. In the case of 
 Abraham, we perceive that after " standing up," the next thing
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 315 
 
 was to bury the dead ; and accordingly in the inscription be- 
 fore us, e%avi<TTa<T0ai is followed by eKTropevecrQat, : that is, the 
 " standing up/' or the termination of the dirges, bowlings, and 
 beatings of the breast in the house of the deceased, is followed 
 by the " going out," or the procession accompanying the corpse 
 to the tomb, or to the funeral pile. Here we find mention of 
 the mourning women only, because the preceding portion of 
 the law decides that they were to continue till the fifth month, 
 whereas the mourning men and boys were to leave in the fourth 
 month. 
 
 Pouqueville, in his Travels in the Morea, etc., gives the fol- 
 lowing account of what was done during his residence in Greece ; 
 and no doubt these modern observances are very similar to the 
 Trevflo? or KrjSeia mentioned in the inscription. 
 
 " A codja-bachi of the town died in our vicinity, and public prayers were 
 ordered for the repose of his soul. It was not sufficient that his wife and 
 children, with rent garments, proceeded to his grave, striking their face and 
 bosom ; but, as he was a man of power, the honour of his family required 
 that the pomp of religion should be displayed in respect to his manes, and 
 the most famous criers were put in requisition to attend his funeral. These 
 criers were women, who soon arrived with a joyful countenance, in the hope 
 of receiving a salary proportionate to the importance of their functions. 
 They began by drinking off some bumpers of wine, and ascertaining the price 
 they were to receive. They then inquired the name, qualities, and good 
 actions of the codja-bachi, of which his valet informed them, taking care to 
 enlarge upon each circumstance. They now placed themselves round the 
 coffin, and began to groan and murmur. Afterwards they cried in faint ac- 
 cents, but gradually raised the voice till it had attained a high pitch. The 
 substance of their lamentation was as follows : ' Oh ! what a fine brave man ! 
 His ancestors were noble and illustrious. His father and grandfather were 
 codja-bachis, and he was one himself. He might have become a prince ; 
 and who knows but he might have restored the empire ? He prayed like a 
 saint ; and never failed to burn incense before the image on holidays. Let 
 us weep over him.' And then their cries recommenced. These lamentations 
 continued for a length of time, and were repeated to every person who came 
 to see the corpse. After the interment, at which the criers also attend, the 
 whole family return to partake of a repast, when they eat and drink, and 
 their grief is at an end."
 
 316 APPENDIX A. 
 
 The trains appointed in the law as a matter of necessity '.] For 
 this sense of at ef 0801, meaning the train of attendants which 
 might accompany the body to the funeral pile, see the word in 
 Valpy's edition of Stephani Thesaurus. I have supposed 
 eTravayicov (which I do not find in the Lexicons,) to mean the 
 same as e7rara7e9. 
 
 Those men and women who do not obey.~\ After these words 
 the following have by some accident been omitted : 
 
 " and that it should be forbidden to such women, as being 
 profane, to sacrifice to any of the gods for ten years ;". 
 
 Ceres Thesmophoros ...... Artemis Lochia.~\ I have not 
 
 found direct testimony to the existence of temples of these god- 
 desses at Pergamus. But the worship of Artemis, or Diana, 
 was established almost universally in Asia Minor, and was of 
 the highest antiquity ; and the coins of this part of Asia Minor 
 show that the worship of Ceres also was very general. 
 
 The date of this inscription may perhaps be about 300 B.C. 
 
 Nos. VII XII. Pages 4850. 
 From Assos. 
 
 No. VII. 
 
 AvyoepreaS(o)v 
 
 teat 
 
 -f Aov/ciavov ~ 
 
 ft> Kai ot- 
 
 a(i)ra ev rot? 
 cnro- 
 
 I offer the following attempt at a translation : 
 
 " The tomb of Angoercadus 
 the Macedonian,
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 317 
 
 , rru u c T and Canice ; 
 
 + The tomb of Lucian. . 
 
 about whom and 
 
 his mode of life 
 an account is pre- 
 served in the archives/' 
 
 It appears probable that this tomb first received the remains 
 of the Macedonian, and afterwards of Lucianus, whose name is 
 placed apart on the left hand. The cross prefixed to it probably 
 denoted that he was a Christian. The same name, Lucianus, 
 appears in No. XII., also from Assos, and with a cross in like 
 manner prefixed. 
 
 No. VIII. 
 
 6 lepevs rov aeftcuTTov 6- 
 eov Ka6<rapo5, 6 Se av 
 v Aaiap^of 6 Kotvro? So 
 05 KUI Trarpios ftatrCkev. 
 
 Translation. " The priest of the august god Caesar, and 
 the * * * Asiarch Quintus," etc. 
 
 Asiarch^] The term is well explained in the following note 
 on Acts xix. 31. by the Commissioners for the Education of the 
 PooV in Ireland (Scripture Lessons, New Testament, No. 2.) : 
 
 " Asiarchs were officers who presided at the religious rites. 
 They were selected from among the more wealthy citizens; 
 and, although they held the office only for a year, they con- 
 tinued in courtesy to enjoy the title." 
 
 No. IX. 
 
 * * * Kat iepevs rov Ato9 r * * 
 (K)aicrapi 2e/3aaT&> /cat T&> A * *
 
 318 APPENDIX A. 
 
 No. X. 
 ETU Serov ATTI * * * 
 
 (aro)u tea 
 * * * * 
 
 *VO? T7/9 TTOX 
 * # * * 
 
 No. XI. 
 
 rwv ayp(<av 
 tjv TT;? TToXew? KXeo(rT/3a(ro9, yto? TroXeco?, <f>vcrei 
 
 No. XII. 
 
 * 
 
 (e)/t row * * * Aftoi* Aoivc(t)avov. 
 
 . 
 
 i. e. By the care of Elladins 
 
 from the * * * of Avius Lucianus. 
 
 Portions of the inscriptions numbered VIII., IX., and XI. 
 were copied by Dr. Hunt in 1801, and are published in Wai- 
 pole's Memoirs, p. 128. I have inserted in parentheses the parts 
 of No. XL which are supplied by Hunt's copy, and add a trans- 
 lation of the inscription thus far restored : " Cleostratus, a son 
 of the city, but by nature a son of Apellicon, left for the adorn- 
 ing of the city from the income of his fields," &c.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 319 
 
 No. XIII. Page 60. 
 From Alexandria Troas. 
 
 I have been enabled to give the translation at the bottom of 
 page 60, by comparing this inscription with one published by 
 Spon in his Miscellanea Eruditce Antiquitatis, pp. 173, 174. 
 He saw at Alexandria Troas three pedestals having the same 
 inscription, except that the numerals at the bottom were VII., 
 VIII., IX., respectively. He has published that with the nu- 
 meral VII.*, and the next in order is evidently that brought 
 by Mr. Fellows. In this the name of the man to whose honour 
 the statue on the pedestal was erected, and the word FLAMINI, 
 denoting his office, must be supposed to have stood at the 
 beginning, and to have been lost. The following part of the 
 inscription, copied by Mr. Fellows, may be thus restored. 
 
 DIVI.AVG.COL..CL.APRENS. 
 ET.COL.IVL.PHILIPPENSI 
 EORVNDEM.ET.PRINCIPI.ET 
 COL.IVL.PARIANA.ET.TRIBVNI 
 MILIT.COH.XXXII.VOLVNTAR. 
 TRIE. MILIT.LEG.XIII. GEM. 
 PRAEF.EQVIT.ALAE.I. 
 SCVBVLORVM. 
 
 VIII. 
 VIC. 
 
 Apri, also called Apros, was a city of Thrace, and was erected 
 into a colony by Claudius. Philippi, the well-known city of 
 Macedonia, became a Roman colony when the Romans obtained 
 possession of that country. Parium was a city in the Troad. 
 
 * We find it also in Pococke's Inscriptions Antiques, p. 41. But he 
 did not know whence it came.
 
 320 APPENDIX A. 
 
 No. XIV. Page 112. 
 
 From Nicaea. 
 
 The year 6316, which is the date of this inscription, would 
 correspond, according to the Byzantine computation, to A.D. 
 808. (Ideler, Handbuch der Chronologic, ii. p. 460.) The 
 Michael of the inscription may, therefore, have been Michael I., 
 who reigned about that time. Pococke has published this in- 
 scription in his Inscriptiones Antiques. 
 
 No. XV. Page 113. 
 From Nicaea. 
 
 TOV ayaOov, epav(a) 
 (rafjJ)ieva-avTa, /cat yvf^vaa-iap^r)- 
 <ravra evSoo>5, /cat ecrriaa-av- 
 ra TO (TvveSpiov fAeydhoTrpeTro)? KOI, 
 
 ******** 
 (T)T;V fjLejKrrrjv apffl 
 AptcrratveTiavov A/z/uavov 
 /cat Hav\.eivtavov Tpv 
 (7) papfjiaTevovTOs Avp. 
 Kat/covvos Bta fitov Avp. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Instead of epava Ta/j,tvcravra } it has been proposed to read 
 ypa^areva-avTa, " who discharged the office of scribe/' 
 
 The inscription contains the following contractions, which 
 may be compared with those in No. XVII. 
 
 MM for fiv
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 321 
 
 NE i/e 
 
 hN rjv 
 
 -E re 
 
 The expression Sta fStov ought perhaps to be translated " for 
 life," or e( during his life." See Travels in various Countries of 
 the East, edited by Walpole, pp. 551, 552. 
 
 No. XVI. Pages 113, 114. 
 From Nicaea. 
 
 Xey. 18. y 18 yeftw. 
 
 . te. e7nr(po- 
 TT)OV 2e/3. eirap^eia^ FaXXta? 
 
 (A^KVCTaVlKV)? 7Tl K V<TOV, 
 
 errirp. eTrap^eta? Muo-ta? 
 
 ara), Tnrp. 7rap%eia<i 
 
 CTTltTp. BoVK, 7Tap- 
 
 (^et)9 Aa\/tarta9 KCU l<rrpt- 
 (a)<?, einrp. Sovtciyvaptov 
 rov iSiov 
 \oyov 
 
 eXao? rov 
 ov <J)t,\ov. at. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 This inscription is published by Von Hammer, Umblick 
 auf einer Reise nach Brussa, pp. 187, 188. He says it was 
 high up in the wall by the Land-gate, where the water flows 
 into the city. 
 
 He shows from Tacitus the great valour and celebrity of the
 
 322 APPENDIX A. 
 
 14th Legion in the reign of Otho, and that under Nero the 15th 
 repulsed the Persians. 
 
 The name of the person celebrated must have been at the 
 head of the inscription. 
 
 I translate TOY IAIOY AOfOY at his own cost/' sup- 
 posing it equivalent to PECVNIA SVA in Latin inscriptions. 
 
 " The Lower Mysia" is evidently the same as the Lesser 
 Mysia, which was near the coast and low, " the Greater Mysia" 
 being for the most part lofty and mountainous. 
 
 A Ducenary Steward (Procurator Casaris Ducenarius) was 
 one of the highest rank, receiving a salary of two hundred 
 sesterces. 
 
 Orellius shows that the 14th Legion was called Gemina. (In- 
 scriptionum Lat. Selectarum Collectio, No. 922.) 
 
 No. XVII. Page 116. 
 From Nicaea. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 We find the first part of this inscription in Pococke's Inscrip- 
 tiones Antigua;, p. 28, as well as in the work of Von Hammer. 
 
 M. Aur. Claudius became Emperor A.D. 268 ; was second 
 time Consul, and may be supposed to have become thereby 
 " second time Proconsul " of Bithynia, A.D. 269 ; and died 
 A.D. 270. This seems to fix the exact date of the inscription. 
 Claudiopolis in Bithynia was no doubt named from the same 
 Emperor. The other individual mentioned in the inscription 
 is styled 'TfrariKo^, Consular, a title denoting that he had 
 been Consul. In the Fasti Consulares we find that A.D. 268 
 the Consuls were " Paternus and Marianus." Probably " Ma- 
 rianus " ought to be Macrinus. 
 
 The splendid orator.] I doubt whether this translation is 
 correct, but can suggest none better.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 323 
 
 On the titles " Proconsul " and " second time Proconsul/' as 
 applied to Roman Emperors, see Orellii Inscrip. Lat. Select., 
 No. 19, where Nerva is styled Proconsul. 
 
 This inscription contains the following contractions j compare 
 No. XV. 
 
 H for pt 
 
 T rp 
 
 ME ie 
 
 No. XVIII. Page 127- 
 North of Cotya3ium. 
 
 xai i- 
 5) * * * 
 jrapa V)(yv * * * * 
 A<7t\a<? teat A<TK\r)7ra<f, 
 ol AovcX^Tra * * 
 * * 
 
 From the last word it appears probable that the place where 
 this inscription was found, was anciently called Curnaetos. 
 
 No. XIX. Page 142. 
 
 From /Ezani. 
 
 AoviSios KOU/TO<? \iaveiTwv Apxpv&i,, J$ov\rj, (/cat) 
 A?;/ift) j(aipeiv. Afi^tcr/BrjT'rjcris Trepi 'Xjapas tepas ava- 
 Tedeia"r}<i 7ra\ai TO) At* Tpei^o^evrj 7ro\\a>v ercov, rrj Trpovoia rov 
 peyccrTOV AvroKparopos reXou? TV%e' erret yap 7recrTi\a avrai Srj- 
 \(!>v TO Trpaypa o\ov, rjpofMTjvre ori %/JT; Trotetv, Svo ra fia\t,<Tra TTJV 
 Sia<f>opav vfjiiv Kewovvra, tcai TO Svcrepyes Kai SvcrevpeTov rov 
 
 7rape%o/ieva //,et(w) acrrw fyikavOpwirw, TO Sitcatov 
 
 Y2
 
 324 APPENDIX A. 
 
 0o>9 177 Trepi ra<? Kpitreis eTTt/teXeta T(T/V) Tro\v%(p}oviov v/ 
 
 /ta^T/V /Cat VTTO-fyL- 
 
 av Trpos aXX^Xoi"? 7rav<re(i)v (e<j>T) } ?) to? e/c TT;? 7Tt<rr(oX)7;<? rjv 
 ev Trpo? /ie 
 e, ;<? TO avriypafov V/ 
 
 rov e/ 
 e/cetvot? 
 
 Ttjv X M P av cL^Tpwv a/c u 
 
 etc rcov ip(ov rov Ktutrapo? <ypafj,p,ar(wv SjeS^Xw/ca 6rt 
 
 Xetv uTrep etcacrrov tc\ijpov Kara TTJV <f>acr 
 
 rrjv 7ri(rrd\r)v e/tae 
 
 ftpaSeiov a7ro\av(rai rtjv TTO\IV TIJ 
 ryevtovrai . apicei yap avrots TO /*%/>* 
 (fraSetcai TT;? TT/SO? eo~Trepov TTi<rro 
 po eypcufrev (/cat?) eppaxrBai vfias ew%(eTai}. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 The latter part of this inscription is too imperfect to be trans- 
 lated. It probably contained exhortations to amity, with some 
 further directions respecting the measuring and allotment of 
 the territory. It appears also to refer to a copy of the Emperor's 
 letter, inscribed to the westward on the same temple, and per- 
 haps one of the Latin inscriptions noticed by Mr. Fellows. (See 
 p. 141.) The inscription contains internal evidence that the 
 temple was erected to Jupiter (ry Ati') : we might expect to 
 find the temple of the principal divinity of the city in its acro- 
 polis ; and from the evidence of coins (referred to in Holstenii 
 Annot. in Steph. Byz., v. Ai^avot,,) we learn that Jupiter was the 
 principal divinity of the ^Ezanitas. We may also conclude that 
 the emperor mentioned in the inscription was Hadrian, both as 
 the known patron of this city, and on account of his especial in-
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 325 
 
 terest in temples dedicated to Jupiter. The concluding sen- 
 tence of the inscription was probably added by the stone-cutter, 
 and may have run thus: "***# #*** wrote this in- 
 scription, and prays that you may enjoy health." 
 
 No. XX. Page 144. 
 From JSzani. 
 
 'O apxwv T(i>v Tlave\\rjvcov teat lepevs 6eov* ASpiavov Have\\r)vt,ov 
 rcai aya>vo0eT?79 TCDV /*eyaX&>v HaveXX^wtov K * latreov, tcai ol 
 naveXX?7ve<?, rot? 7n TT;? A<rta9 'EXX-^crt, 
 M. OV\TTIOV A"rrov\r}t(o)v Eupu/cXea TOV 
 
 77877 KCU e() 
 kreputv rypafAfAaTwv iiaprvptas 7175 Trap r/fAwv aveyvcoKores, (?) 67re- 
 
 crraX/co- 
 
 T? vpZvre avrois vjrep avrov,KaL rrj jrarpiSiy icai TO) fj,e<yi<TT<a A.VTO- 
 Kparopt,' Si/caiov Be rjyrjcrafieda, /cat TOV Kparicrrov * latrovo? 
 
 7rapa\aftov- 
 To? rrjv a(/o)%77v, f^aprvprja-ai, avrq) ra avra en-ieiKeta re icai 
 
 Trept, TTJV TroXtretav row crvv7rav\ i r}V(OV } teat TO 
 TO VTT * * -)(ov avro) avw6e teat cnroyevov? e-Trt/iaXXov Trpoayo/jievoi, 
 Si" a>v teat, TrparTcov 8iarT\K irapa Travra TOV (?)***** 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 The Panhellenes appear to have been a college or company 
 of Greeks from all parts, who, besides the general advantages 
 supposed to arise from their association, had annual processions, 
 accompanied by sacrifices and athletic games. Jason, their 
 Archon (i. c. President, or Grand Master), is styled <( Priest of 
 the god Hadrian Panhellenius." In this title of Hadrian there
 
 326 APPENDIX A. 
 
 is an obvious reference to that of Jupiter Panhellenius, who at 
 an earlier aera was worshiped in ./Egina. Dr. D. E. Clarke 
 found at Megara an inscription, perhaps designed for a statue 
 of Hadrian, and raised to him by the Hadrianidae (who were 
 probably a fraternity of his worshipers, similar to the Panhel- 
 lenes), calling him OXv/jLiriov, Tlv6iov } HaveXA^vtov, rov eavrcov 
 K,ri<rrt]V icai vofj,o0err)v icai rpofaa. 
 
 One of the Arundel marbles (No. 47- pp. 55, 56. of the Ox- 
 ford edition, 12mo,) mentions twice "the singers or minstrels of 
 the god Hadrian/' 'TfAvaSoi rov 6eov 'ASptavov. 
 
 An inscription published by Spon (MiscelL, p. 364.) shows, 
 that the festival of the Panhellenia was celebrated at Athens. 
 
 Dio Cassius says (lib. 69. p. 1164. ed. Reimari), "Hadrian 
 completed the 'OXu/iTrtoj/ at Athens, in which his own image is 
 set up (eV 5 Kal avrbs iSpvrcu). * * * * He left directions to 
 the Greeks to construct his own chapel (a-r)tcbv} } which is called 
 TO HaveXX^j/tov ; and he appointed games (oywva) in reference 
 to it, and gave to the Athenians much wealth, and an annual 
 supply of corn, and the whole of Cephalenia." So Spartian says 
 (c. 13. referring to Hadrian's second visit to Athens), " Opera, 
 quae apud Athenienses coeperat, dedicavit: ut Jovis Olympii 
 aedem et aram sibi: eodemque modo per Asiam iter faciens 
 templa sui nominis consecravit." It seems not improbable that 
 the worship of Hadrian was associated with that of Jupiter in 
 the temple on the acropolis of ,/Ezani. 
 
 Nos. XXI XXIII. Page 147. 
 From /Ezani. 
 
 Lucianus appears to have been a common name in Asia 
 Minor; probably also Marsyas. The worship of Diana was 
 extremely prevalent there.
 
 GREEK INS^IIPTIONS. 327 
 
 
 No. XXIV. Page 148. 
 
 From ^Ezani. 
 
 , 
 
 Kovap(r}- 
 
 09 feat 2a- 
 
 rovpveivos 
 
 Ovrjcra 
 
 No. XXV. Page 164. 
 From Sparta in Pisidia. 
 
 'Tirep /u,v?7/i779 teat avcnravo-ewi IlauXou E7rtAc(a?)8toy. Ave- 
 KTicrev rov vaov rcov ap^avyeXcov. 
 
 This inscription appears evidently Christian, and perhaps, 
 even as such, not very ancient. The Greek T has the form of 
 the Latin V. Paul Lucas observes, that the Christians were 
 particularly numerous, and had four churches at Sparta. Voyage 
 dam la Grece, I'Asie Mineure, &c., torn. i. ch. 34. p. 248. 
 
 No. XXVI. Page 169. 
 From Sagalassus. 
 
 A.vprj\,iov 
 veivov 
 (TO)V 77 
 (teat) 6 
 
 i. e. " The Council and the People [commemorate] the August 
 Emperor Aurelius Antoninus." 
 
 This inscription was no doubt intended for a statue of that 
 emperor. His name occurs also on the coins of Sagalassus. 
 (Holstenii Annot. in Steph. Byz. } v.
 
 328 APPENDIX A. 
 
 The remains of this once splendid and populous city were 
 first visited in modern times by Paul Lucas, who saw with 
 astonishment the assemblage of beautiful buildings, little in- 
 jured by tune, and rising like a magical creation in the desert. 
 See his Voyage dans la Grece, &c. I.e., and his Third "Voyage," 
 tome i. Also Mannert, Geographic der Griechen und Rb'mer, 
 B. 2. p. 174. 
 
 No. XXVI*. Page 190. 
 Between Adalia and Perge. 
 
 In this inscription I can make out only a few words ; e. g. 
 <j)i\o7rarpi 3 rov /3&>/iov (the pedestal?) a7re\ev0p( } /cat, evepyerrj. 
 It probably recorded the name and merits of the individual 
 whose statue surmounted the pedestal. 
 
 Nos. XXVIL, XXVin. Pages 211, 212. 
 From Phaselis. 
 
 No. XXVIL 
 
 The first line may be read thus : 
 
 (A)p2tepU9, (<7)ep(a)<7TO9, ^(/taoyt/e)?^ e^ouo^a?, 
 i. e. " Chief Priest, august, of tribunitial authority ." 
 
 No. XXVIII. 
 
 The inscription on this cornice may be restored as follows : 
 Nepoi/a? vlwvtp Tpai(av)q> (ASptayy) 
 
 (ol) 
 
 i.e. "The citizens of Phaselis to Trajanus Hadrianus, grand- 
 son of Nerva, Proconsul, Father of his country."
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 329 
 
 In Spon's Voyage, (torn. i. p. 380.) we have an inscription 
 from Heracleia in Caria, in which the Emperor Hadrian is called 
 " Trajanus Hadrianus, son of Trajan, grandson of the god 
 Nerva." As Trajan was adopted by Nerva, so Hadrian was 
 adopted by Trajan (a Trajano pro filio habitus, ^Elii Spart. Ha- 
 drianus}. This shows why Hadrian is both called Trajan, and 
 represented as the grandson of Nerva. ^Elius Spartianus also 
 mentions, that he received the title of " Father of his country." 
 
 Nos. XXIX., XXX. Page 213. 
 
 From Olympus. 
 
 The pedestal from which the inscription No. XXIX. is taken 
 was no doubt surmounted by a statue of the Emperor and phi- 
 losopher Marcus Aurelius Antoninus. Mannert (Geographic, 
 B. 2. p. 135.) seems to think it doubtful whether the city existed 
 so late as the reign of this Emperor. The inscription before us 
 settles the question : it shows that Olympus was still a con- 
 siderable place. 
 
 The form of the Omega is well deserving of notice, W for II ; 
 it shows a transition to the small or cursive form, o>. It occurs 
 again in the inscription from Labranda, p. 262. 
 
 No. XXX. may be read thus: 
 
 To rjpwov &i\OKparov<i 
 avriov Tleta-tOea KCU 
 e^ovcrtav %TO)(7av av. 
 
 Nos. XXXI., XXXII. Pages 222, 223. 
 From Patara. 
 
 No. XXXI. 
 
 To rjpwov KaTe&Kevagev 
 
 M. Avp. \a<r(ov, Iao-ovo9 Awen-
 
 330 APPENDIX A. 
 
 oVf 6 Hara(p)v<;, eavrw xai 
 TTJ <rf/i/3to) avrov ******* 
 A7r^>t&)T77, /cat Hro\efA(i)V av(ijp e-) 
 Trt TO) /j,r)8eva erepov redij- 
 vai, t] o<f>i\r)(rei: Tot? tcara^do- 
 vtois deois Sttcaia. 
 
 The form Y for Y in the word o-vft{3i<p is peculiar. It ap- 
 proaches in form to some of the Lycian letters. 
 
 No. XXXII. 
 
 Kotvro? At/civvies, \ev- 
 6epo<f 'Pcofjiai(o)<;, Zoxrifiw AT 
 ra\ov } Harapety rov Trare- 
 pa fjiov Kai AtKiwiov (?) Zeo- 
 
 rov aSeX 
 Afca/3ovXt&) 
 eveicev. 
 
 Nos. XXXIII XXXVIL Pages 238240. 
 
 From Tlos. 
 No. XXXIII. 
 
 viov Aoyu-t- 
 Ttou A.7rofjiivapiov rov 
 
 8iK(a)ioBorov 
 TXwefDV r) BouX7, /eat 17 Tepov- 
 
 o-ia, Kat 6 A?;/io?. 
 
 In the translation I have supposed v lov to govern Ao/tmoy 
 as its genitive ; but, considering the imperfect state of the in- 
 scription, and that the Lycians were in the habit of calling 
 themselves after the mother, and not after the father (Herod, i. 
 173.), it is very possible that we ought to translate the first line 
 thus : " Son of Flavia Firma."
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 331 
 
 In No. XXXVII. the Lycian name " Sarpedon," with which 
 the Iliad has made us so familiar, occurs twice. ee Meidi " is 
 perhaps the same with a name, apparently " Mada," which 
 occurs in one of Mr. Fellows's Lycian inscriptions. 
 
 No.XXXVIIL Page 246. 
 
 From Telmessus. 
 
 We may trace the word ^v^/w/?, and perhaps supply in the 
 last line TO fj,vrjfj,iov. 
 
 Nos. XXXIX XLL Pages 255, 256. 
 From Stratoniceia. 
 
 No. XXXIX. is written in trimeter iambics. The letters 
 KH, A, AA, placed after each line, were probably intended to 
 express the number of letters in the line, viz. 28, 30, and 31. 
 
 No. XLI. may perhaps be read thus 
 
 * * ewe/Set KCU rrj 
 e)ic row 
 
 No. XLIL Page 262. 
 From Labranda. 
 
 MevercpaTr]<; Me- 
 veKparovs, 6 ap%ia- 
 r/30? XT;? TToXeco? 0r(e)- 
 <f>avr)<f>opa)v, TOV KIO- 
 va crvv cnreipr) KCU ice- 
 
 Oityarpot
 
 332 APPENDIX A. 
 
 avrov 
 
 tcai aim;? <rr(j)avr)<j)o- 
 
 pov /cot yvpvacriap'xpv. 
 
 The woodcut may be compared with Spon's engraving of a 
 Corinthian column at Mylasa. A panel or tablet, similar to 
 that here represented, states that it was erected by the people 
 in honour of their benefactor Menander, the son of Euthydemus. 
 (See Spon, Voyage, torn. i. p. 275.) Probably this is the " single 
 fluted column" which Mr. Fellows saw at Mylasa. We may 
 suppose that each column, or a sum of money as an equivalent, 
 was contributed to the erection of the temple at Labranda by 
 the person recorded on the panel. 
 
 The " city " mentioned in the inscription was no doubt My- 
 lasa, to which Labranda belonged as a KW^, or village. The 
 temple seen by Mr. Fellows was probably erected on the site of 
 the " ancient temple of Jupiter" (Ato9 veo>s ap^alo?}, of which 
 an interesting account is given by Strabo (lib. xiv. cap. 2. . 23.). 
 That this building was more modern, might be concluded not 
 only from the architecture as described by Mr. Fellows, but also 
 from the form of the o> (n ) in the word a-re^avrj^opcav (see above, 
 No. XXIX.), and from the term Archiatros (chief physician], a 
 title not in use before the time of Nero*. The word (nreipa, 
 which I have translated the " base," is not explained in this 
 sense in the Lexicons, nor, I believe, is it so used in any extant 
 author. But the curious and valuable architectural inscription 
 brought from Athens proves that it denoted the base of an Ionic 
 or Corinthian column. See Walpole's Memoirs on European 
 and Asiatic Turkey, pp. 586, 601. 
 
 The epithets applied to Tryphaenete prove that females took 
 part in the exercises of the gymnasium. 
 
 * Ackermann's Preface to Aretaeus, inserted in Kuhn's edition and treatise, 
 Erlauterung der vornehmsten Medicinalgesetze bis zum xiii. Jahrhundert ; 
 also Henry Meibonius in Comm. in Marc. Aurel. Calliodori archiater. co- 
 mitis. p. 13. No. 2.
 
 333 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 The Corn-drag. Page 70. 
 
 Paul Lucas noticed this method of threshing near the Sea of 
 Marmora. He has represented in an engraving both the in- 
 strument itself and the mode of drawing it by oxen. He de- 
 scribes the method of arming it with gun-flints, and of making 
 it heavy by causing persons to sit upon it. (Voyage dans la 
 Grece, I'Asie Mineure, &c., torn. i. ch. 24. p. 182.) 
 
 This is the tribulum mentioned by Virgil (Georg. i. 164.), 
 and described in the following terms by Varro (De Re Rustica, 
 i. 52.) : " Id fit e tabula lapidibus, aut ferro asperata, quo im- 
 posito auriga, aut pondere grandi, trahitur jumentis junctis, ut 
 discutiat e spica grana." The prophet Isaiah alludes to it, 
 chap. xli. 15 :" Behold, I will make thee a new sharp threshing 
 instrument having teeth." 
 
 Chips of Fir-wood used for giving light. Page 140. 
 
 This use of fir-wood, cleft or torn into strips, and especially 
 of the root of the tree, is well known, and is described in an in- 
 structive essay lately published by Mr. Arthur Aikin, "On 
 artificial light from solid substances, and the manufacture of 
 candles*." But the account here given by Mr. Fellows from 
 his own observation, enables us to form a much more exact and 
 accurate idea of the practice. When compared with the pas- 
 sages referred to by Mr. Aikin, and with those which I shall 
 now cite from Theophrastus, it appears to me to warrant the 
 inference that this method of obtaining artificial light has pre- 
 vailed in Asia Minor for nearly 3000 years. 
 
 * Transactions of the Society of Arts, 1839, vol. liii. pp. 4, 5.
 
 334 APPENDIX B. 
 
 According to Theophrastus the tree best adapted for yielding 
 .torch-wood (SAs) was the Hevxr), which is still called Trev/co? by 
 the Greeks of Asia Minor, and is the Pinus maritima of Lin- 
 naeus. Theophrastus says that the roots were particularly re- 
 sinous, and also the heart of the trunk. He speaks of the torch- 
 makers of Mount Ida (ol Trepl rrjv "IBrjv SaSovpyol), an expression 
 which both proves the early prevalence of this custom in Asia 
 Minor, and shows that a distinct, and probably a numerous class 
 of persons were employed in this occupation. The process is 
 described as follows. When the pine (Trevicr)) had attained to 
 its full maturity, the torch-maker (SaSovpybs) cut out a piece 
 from the trunk near its base. The consequence was an accu- 
 mulation of turpentine in the vicinity of the wound. After the 
 lapse of twelve months the portion thus impregnated was cut 
 out, and divided into suitable lengths. This was repeated for 
 three successive years, and then, as the tree began to decay, the 
 heart of the trunk was extracted, and the roots were dug up for 
 the same purpose. (Hist. Plant., lib. i. cap. 6. 1 . ; lib. iii. cap. 9. 
 3. ; lib. x. cap. 2. . 2,3.) Theophrastus also mentions a dis- 
 eased state of the pine, when from the excess of turpentine the 
 whole trunk became torch-wood (o\ov <yiverai So,?. Hist. Plant., 
 lib. iii. cap. 9. 5.) ; and in conformity with the preceding ob- 
 servations, he remarks that this tree survives the operation of 
 being cut for torches (ra 8' ovSev Trda-^ei, tcaQdjrep 77 
 SaSovpyovfievr). Hist. Plant., lib. iv. cap. 16. 1. rj Se 
 ical Sa&oKOTrovjj.ev'f) a-to^erai. De causis Plant., lib. v. cap. 16. 2.). 
 
 These statements show the precise meaning of the Homeric 
 word Bat's, in Attic Greek contracted into Sas. It meant either 
 torch-wood considered in the mass, or a lath or strip of such 
 torch-wood made to be used as a candle or a flambeau. Dor- 
 ville has given this explanation in his notes on Charito, lib. v. 
 cap. 9. These pieces of resinous pine- wood are even now called 
 BaBla by the Greeks of Mount Ida. (Sibthorp and Hunt in Wai- 
 pole's Memoirs, pp. 120. 235.) 
 
 We read in the Odyssey (cr. 309.) that the suitors of Penelope,
 
 ANCIENT AND MODERN CUSTOMS. 335 
 
 wishing to have a dance after nightfall, heaped three brasiers 
 with wood, and from time to time inserted into it torches, i. e. 
 pieces of fir-wood impregnated with turpentine, as above de- 
 scribed, and thus adapted to illuminate the apartment (KOI 
 Sai&as fj,eTejjita-<yov). In the palace of Alcinous (Od. 77. 100-102.) 
 a more ingenious and elegant arrangement is adopted : 
 
 Refulgent pedestals the walls surround, 
 
 Which boys of gold with flaming torches crown'd ; 
 
 The polish'd ore, reflecting ev'ry ray, 
 
 Blazed on the banquet with a double day. 
 
 Pope's Translation. 
 
 With this account of torches and torch-wood we may com- 
 pare the account which Mr. Fellows afterwards gives of the 
 mode of obtaining fire-wood (Chap. IX. pp. 257, 258.). This 
 is based upon the same circumstance, the tendency of the resin 
 or turpentine to accumulate and exude wherever an incision is 
 made in the fir-tree. After repeated incisions, and the applica- 
 tion of fire and the axe, the tree " at last falls, borne down by a 
 heavy gust of wind." To the same primitive and tedious me- 
 thod of felling trees intended for burning, Theophrastus, speak- 
 ing of the natives of Ida, appears to allude when he says, " that 
 after these things the tree, being decayed, falls in consequence 
 of the under-cutting, by the force of the winds*." 
 
 Napkins embroidered with gold. Page 153. 
 
 This species of Oriental luxury was known also to the an- 
 cients. In the Life of Alexander Severus, written by Lam- 
 pridius, we read, that although that Emperor took great de- 
 light in good linen, he objected to having it ornamented with 
 gold, because he considered that the excellence of linen con- 
 
 * Merd e ravra Sid rtjv vTrorofirjv knifiirreiv rb Sevtipov VTTO riav irvev/iaruij' 
 frcnrev. Hist. Plant., lib. x. cap. 2. 7.
 
 336 APPENDIX B. 
 
 sisted in being soft and smooth, whereas the insertion of gold 
 made it both rough and rigid. 
 
 We passed much snow, and were visited by a storm of small 
 pieces of ice, of broken forms and transparent. Page 166. 
 
 I once witnessed the same appearance and in circumstances 
 very similar. I was crossing the elevated plain which lies be- 
 tween Aix-la-Chapelle and Cologne. The weather W 7 as intensely 
 cold, the ground covered with snow, and the sun shining 
 brightly. I was struck by the brilliant flashes of light reflected 
 from the snow both in falling and as it lay upon the ground. 
 Having alighted to examine it, I found that it was a variety of 
 snow, differing from the beautiful stellated forms which have 
 been delineated by Hooke in his Micrographia, and more re- 
 cently by Scoresby in his Account of the Arctic Regions, and 
 consisting of thin parallelograms of ice about half an inch long, 
 and with angles of 60 and 120 degrees. 
 
 Springs of fresh water rising in the sea. Page 184. 
 
 I am not aw r are that any other traveller has noticed the 
 " curious effect " here described, which must be attributed to 
 the difference in the refraction of light in passing through fresh 
 and salt water. 
 
 The frequency of submarine freshwater springs on the north- 
 ern coast of the Mediterranean Sea is very remarkable. I have 
 met with the following instances in addition to that here re- 
 corded. 
 
 1. The copious spring in the gulf of La Spezia is well known. 
 It often rises to a considerable height above the surface of the 
 salt water. In this case also the rock is a recent calcareous 
 tufa or breccia. 
 
 2. In the gulf of Taranto. " At the distance of two hundred
 
 ANCIENT AND MODERN CUSTOMS. 337 
 
 yards from the mouth of the Galesus, two powerful freshwater 
 springs, called occhi, rise in the sea, and bubble up to its sur- 
 face with sufficient strength to drive away any boat that floats 
 over them. I was told that they may be seen in calm weather 
 gushing from two black caverns at the bottom of the water." 
 (The Hon. Keppel Craven's Tour through the Southern Pro- 
 vinces of the Kingdom of Naples, p. 181. See also Baron 
 Riedesel's Travels, translated by Forster, p. 180.) 
 
 3. The inhabitants of the ancient Aradus, the Arvad of the 
 Old Testament, obtained water in case of a siege by the follow- 
 ing method. Their city was crowded together upon an island 
 situated at a short distance from the northern extremity of the 
 coast of Phoenice. In the strait they discovered a spring of 
 clear water rising from the rock of limestone. Their expedient 
 was to go to the spot in a boat with a leaden bell-shaped instru- 
 ment having a small hole at the top, round which was fastened 
 a leathern pipe. They let down the instrument upon the 
 spring. At first sea-water was forced up; but after a little 
 while they obtained the spring-water in whatever quantity they 
 desired. (Strabo, lib. xvi. cap. 2. 13.) 
 
 The fine bay of Phineka. Page 214. 
 
 The modern name Phineka is little changed from the an- 
 cient Phoenicus. Livy mentions " portum Phoenicunta" (lib. 37. 
 cap. 16.). According to Stephanus Byzantinus, this was also 
 the name of an island, perhaps one of those mentioned by Mr. 
 Fellows. Livy speaks of the cliffs which overhung the town. 
 Phoenicus (i. e. QOWIKOVS, contracted for QoiviKoeis,) would sig- 
 nify a place abounding in palm-trees (foiviices) ; so that the name 
 agrees most remarkably with Mr. Fellows's account of the num- 
 ber of palm-trees still growing there. 
 
 Wine flavoured with the Fir-apple. Pages 234, 235. 
 Compare the remarks of Dr. Sibthorp and Lord Aberdeen in
 
 338 APPENDIX B. 
 
 Memoirs relating to European and Asiatic Turkey, edited by 
 Walpole, Lond. 1818, p. 235. 
 
 Eggs of the ostrich an emblem of faith. Page 241. 
 
 In an ancient inventory of the relics, &c. belonging to Dur- 
 ham Cathedral, and in other documents of the same kind, re- 
 peated mention is made of Griffin's Eggs. May not these have 
 been ostrich eggs, valued during the middle ages on the prin- 
 ciple here explained? 
 
 Howling of hired women at funerals. Page 241. 
 
 See the preceding Remarks on the Greek inscription, No. VI., 
 (page 314,) which is a law enacted to regulate the practice. 
 
 " Whether the horses of the ancient Greeks were shod." Page 242. 
 Mr. Bracy Clark has shown that they were not, but that 
 great care was taken to harden the hoofs. See his valuable 
 Essay on the Usages of the Ancients respecting Shoeing the 
 Horse, 2nd edit., London, 1831, 4to. 
 
 Milk of sheep, goats, and buffalos generally used. Page 242. 
 The ancients also used the milk of sheep and goats only ; the 
 use of cows and oxen was chiefly for the plough and other agri- 
 cultural work. 
 
 Musical instruments. Page 253. 
 
 The " flute," as here delineated, was called ai\o9 by the 
 Greeks, tibia by the Latins. The " guitar " is probably the 
 ^\i5 or xeXwvi) of the Greeks, the testudo of the Latins. A 
 good representation of an Egyptian guitar is given in Denon's 
 Voyage, plate Iv. No. 27-
 
 ANCIENT AND MODERN CUSTOMS. 339 
 
 Chirping of the " Gryllus" Page 2 73. 
 
 This must no doubt have been the Terri^ or Cicada, so well 
 known from the mention of it by Homer, Anacreon, and Virgil, 
 and so much the object of favour among the Athenians. 
 
 Thermal waters of Hierapolis. Pages 283, 284. 
 
 Appearances exactly like those here described present them- 
 selves at the baths of San Filippo in Tuscany. See Edinburgh 
 Philosophical Journal, 1820, vol. ii. pp. 290 300; Lyell's 
 Principles of Geology; De la Beetle's Geological Manual, 
 p. 136. 
 
 The thermal waters of Hierapolis are mentioned by numerous 
 ancient authors, who are referred to by Cellarius, Ant. Orbis 
 Notitia ; by Mannert ; and by the commentators on Stephanus 
 Byzantinus. It appears that the ancient inhabitants erected 
 fences around their fields and gardens merely by leading the 
 hot water in channels so as to deposit the incrustation in the 
 proper lines of direction.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 80. 
 
 Acrui-cooe, 254. 
 
 Adalia, 179. 
 
 Adam, 45. 
 
 jEzani, 137, 141. 
 
 Alaysoon, 164. 
 
 Alexandria Troas, 58. 
 
 Allah Shehr, 287. 
 
 Altuntash, 154. 
 
 Aneghool, 287. 
 
 Antiocheia, 278. 
 
 Antiphellus, 219. 
 
 Antiquities : Smyrna, 4, 10, 14 ; 
 Pergamus, 35; Assos, 48; Troy, 
 59, 62; Abydos, 81; Constan- 
 tinople, 92; Nicaea, 110, 117; 
 Dooaslan, 135 ; ^Ezani, 141 ; 
 Sagalassus, 167; Selge, 172; 
 Adalia, 187 ; Perge, 191 ; Ped- 
 nelissus,197; Patara,223; Xan- 
 thus, 226; Mylasa, 260; La- 
 branda, 261 ; Miletus, 263 ; 
 Ephesus, 274 ; Laodiceia, 280 ; 
 Hierapolis, 284. 
 
 Appendix, 311. 
 
 . Greek inscriptions, 311- 
 
 332. 
 -. Several points illustrated by 
 
 ancient authors, 333-339. 
 
 Architecture, 47, 50, 53, 65, 111, 
 
 195, 200, 220, 234, 245. 
 Asalook, 275. 
 Ascania, Lake, 110, 160. 
 Assos, 47. 
 
 Bafry, 261. 
 
 Ballook, 157. 
 
 Bas-reliefs, Xanthus, 231. 
 
 Beahrahm, 47. 
 
 Be"ermargy, 174. 
 
 B6rgama, 35. 
 
 Bithynia, 102-122. 
 
 Bolcascooe, 196. 
 
 Boodoor, 162. 
 
 Boojak, 171. 
 
 Boomfbassy, 68. 
 
 Botany: Lydia, 12, 18, 21, 25, 
 272, 278, 287, 290 ; Mysia, 32, 
 37,43,107, 109; Bithynia, 119; 
 Phrygia, 123; Pamphylia, 173, 
 186,196,207; Lycia, 218, 235; 
 Caria, 248. 
 
 Bulladan, 287. 
 
 Cadmus, Mount, 283. 
 Cagamus, 287. 
 Caracooe, 280. 
 Caria, 247-267.
 
 342 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Caroura, 280. 
 
 Cassabrf, 290. 
 
 Castellorizzo, 219. 
 
 Catchiburloo, 158. 
 
 Oestrus, River, 205. 
 
 Chanly, 266. 
 
 Channakalasy, 76. 
 
 Chingunees, 240. 
 
 Climate, 85, 300. 
 
 Climax, Mount, 189. 
 
 Colossse, 283. 
 
 Constantinople, 84-101. 
 
 Costume, 2, 5, 12, 88, 89, 100, 
 188, 252, 277. 
 
 Cousk, 237. 
 
 Cragus, Mount, 227. 
 
 Criscool, 63. 
 
 Criser, 63. 
 
 Customs : Franks, 4 ; Greeks, 3, 
 9, 187, 207, 208, 240; Turks, 
 7, 8, 18, 34, 44, 54, 55, 56, 64, 
 77, 78, 82, 89, 96, 102, 105, 
 121, 135, 140, 150, 161, 163, 
 164,177,216,219,236,258,291. 
 
 Davre, 171. 
 Deliktash, 212. 
 Demelhee'r, 235. 
 Derebbe, 249. 
 Dervises, 91. 
 Dil Ferry, 104. 
 Doganlu, 133. 
 Dollomon, 247. 
 Dooaslan, 135. 
 Doosler, 57. 
 Doove>, 237. 
 Dumbari-ovasy, 159. 
 
 Enae, 66. 
 Ephesus, 274. 
 Ersek, 107. 
 Esky Atrflia, 203. 
 Hissrf, 254. 
 Eurymedon, R., 204. 
 
 Food, 122, 139, 154. 
 Fornas, 222. 
 
 Gaicle, 62. 
 
 Geographical Society, names of 
 places, 345. 
 
 Geology: Lydia, 17,21, 25, 277; 
 Mysia, 37,41, 57,69, 74, 83; 
 Bithynia, 120; Phrygia, 126, 
 127, 279, 284; Pisidia, 162, 
 165; Pamphylia,184, 192; Ly- 
 cia, 216, 221 ; Caria, 257. 
 
 Ghera, 280. 
 
 Ghiaoiircooe, 76. 
 
 Goojak, 278. 
 
 Goosel Hissd, 276. 
 
 Gygseus, 290. 
 
 Hagico6e, 137. 
 Hallil Elly, 75. 
 Heracleia, 263. 
 Hierapolis, 283. 
 Hoola, 251. 
 Hot-springs, 58, 283. 
 
 lakly, 261. 
 Idin, 276. 
 
 Implements, 55, 67, 70, 71, 72, 
 201, 252, 258, 269.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 343 
 
 Inscriptions : Soma, 26, 27 ; Per- 
 
 gamus,30; Assos,49; Troy, 60; 
 
 Constantinople, 94; Nicaea,112; 
 
 Kootdya, 127; JEzam, 142; 
 
 Sparta, 1 64 ; Sagalassus, 1 69 ; 
 
 Laara, 191; Phaselis, 211; 
 
 Olympus, 213; Patara, 222; 
 
 Xanthus, 225 ; Tlos, 238 ; Tel- 
 
 messus, 246 ; Stratoniceia, 255 ; 
 
 Labranda, 262. 
 Isiouda, 194. 
 Ismee'r, 114. 
 
 Kakava, 217. 
 Karavaren, 38. 
 Khan, 19, 27, 33. 
 Kizzlejik, 263. 
 Ko6gez, 248. 
 Koosdervent, 109. 
 Kootaya, 130. 
 Kymac, 95. 
 
 Laara, 190. 
 
 Labranda, 261. 
 
 Laodiceia, 280. 
 
 Laws, 6, 15, 33, 260. 
 
 Lefky, 118. 
 
 Legelahcooe, 200. 
 
 Limyra, 214. 
 
 Longevity, 59. 
 
 Lycia, 209. 
 
 Lycus, 280. 
 
 Lydia, 1-24, 268-278, 287-303. 
 
 Macry, 242. 
 Maeander, 263. 
 Magnesia, 19. 
 
 Mais, 221. 
 Manavgat, 201. 
 Manser, 19. 
 Meis, 244. 
 Mellassa, 257. 
 Miletus, 264. 
 Moola, 249. 
 Mosynus, 278. 
 Mylasa, 257. 
 Myrus, 263. 
 Mysia, 24-83. 
 
 Neapolis, 271. 
 Nicsea, 110. 
 
 Olympus, 212. 
 Olympus, Mount, 118. 
 Oneoenoo, 124. 
 Ooscooda, 102. 
 
 Pactolus, 289. 
 Pallattia, 264. 
 Pamphylia, 171-208. 
 Pasha Nedgib, 181. 
 Patara, 222. 
 Pednelissus, 199. 
 Pergamus, 35. 
 Perge, 190. 
 Phaselis, 211. 
 Philadelphia, 287. 
 Phineka, 214. 
 
 Phrygia, 123-161, 279-286. 
 Pinara, 237. 
 Pisidia, 162-170. 
 Plague, 159, 243, 264. 
 Plates, list of, xi. 
 Priene, 268.
 
 344 
 
 Retrospect, 293. 
 
 Sadecooe, 170. 
 Sagalassus, 167. 
 Samos, 271. 
 Sandooklee", 157. 
 Sansoon, 266. 
 Sardis, 289. 
 Scala Nuova, 273. 
 Selge, 172. 
 Shellac, 74. 
 Sichanlee", 157. 
 Side, 203. 
 Slaves, 7, 43, 188. 
 Smyrna, 1-14. 
 Soho6t, 121. 
 Soldiers, 78. 
 Sparta, 163. 
 Stambool, 84-101. 
 Storm, 166, 270. 
 Stratoniceia, 255. 
 Sultan, 97. 
 Syllium, 200. 
 
 Te"krova, 211. 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 Telmessus, 244. 
 
 Thyatira, 22. 
 
 Tides, 46. 
 
 Tlos, 237. 
 
 Tralles, 276. 
 
 Travelling, mode of, &c., 14, 38. 
 
 requisites for, 304-309. 
 
 Tripolis, 287. 
 TrogiHum, 271. 
 Tumuli at Sardis, 290. 
 
 Vizierkhan, 121. 
 Wine, 234. 
 Xanthus, 225. 
 Yourooks, 176. 
 
 Zoology : Sheep, 10; Buffalo, 19, 
 64; Horse, 242; Camel, 292; 
 Fishes, 83, 94, 107, 279, 249 ; 
 Birds, 28, 108, 155, 170, 205, 
 248, 280, 285 ; Dogs, 73 ; Rep- 
 tiles and Insects, 173, 206, 271, 
 290.
 
 NAMES OF PLACES 
 
 MENTIONED IN THE JOUBNAL, 
 
 AS PRONOUNCED BY THE PEOPLE, AND AS WRITTEN BY 
 THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY. 
 
 As pronounced by 
 the people. 
 
 As written by the Royal 
 Geographical Society. 
 
 As pronounced by 
 the people. 
 
 As written by the Royal 
 Geographical Society. 
 
 Acruicooe 
 
 Akhur-koi. 
 
 Boodoor 
 
 Biirdur. 
 
 Acsd 
 
 Ak-hisar. 
 
 Boodroom 
 
 Budrum. 
 
 Adramit 
 
 Adramit. 
 
 Boojak 
 
 Bujak. 
 
 Alaysodn 
 
 Aghlasun. 
 
 Boontfbassy 
 
 Bunar-bashi. 
 
 Allah- shehr 
 
 Ala-shehr. 
 
 Bnisa 
 
 Biirusah. 
 
 Altuntash 
 
 Altuntash. 
 
 Bulladan * 
 
 Buluwadin. 
 
 Aneghool 
 
 A'inehg61. 
 
 Caracooe 
 
 Kara-koi. 
 
 Arracooe 
 
 Ard-k6f. 
 
 Cassabd 
 
 Kasabah. 
 
 Asalook 
 
 Aya-solugh. 
 
 Castellorizzo 
 
 Castello Rizo. 
 
 Attflia 
 
 Antaliyah. 
 
 Castled^ 
 
 Kastel-tagh. 
 
 Baffy 
 
 Baff. 
 
 Catchiburloo 
 
 Gechi-bur-lu. 
 
 Baker 
 
 Bakir. 
 
 Chanly 
 
 Chanld. 
 
 Ballook 
 
 Baluk. 
 
 Channakalasy 
 
 Chanakkal'ah-si. 
 
 Beahrahm 
 
 Beiram. 
 
 Chdtme 
 
 Chetmeh. 
 
 Be6rmargy 
 
 B^rmarj. 
 
 Cousk 
 
 Cousk. 
 
 B&ramitch 
 
 Beiramicheh. 
 
 Criscool 
 
 KTriskul. 
 
 Brgama 
 
 Berghamah. 
 
 Crissa 
 
 KTrisah. 
 
 Bijikly 
 
 Bijik-li. 
 
 Davre 
 
 Davreh.
 
 346 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES 
 
 As pronounced by 
 the people. 
 
 As written by the Royal 
 Geographical Society. 
 
 As pronounced by 
 the people. 
 
 As written by the Royal 
 Geographical Society. 
 
 Deliktash 
 
 Delik-tash. 
 
 Karaboonacooe 
 
 Kara-bunar koi. 
 
 Demelhee'r 
 
 Demelheh. 
 
 Karavaren 
 
 Kara Varen. 
 
 Dil 
 
 DU. 
 
 Kasrukhan 
 
 Khosreu Khan. 
 
 Dollomon 
 
 Talaman. 
 
 Kemdreh 
 
 Kemereh. 
 
 Dooaslan 
 
 Duuaslan. 
 
 Kiacooe 
 
 Kaya k6i. 
 
 Doornf 
 
 Durrah. 
 
 Kir'kagatch 
 
 Kirk-aghach. 
 
 Dodsler 
 
 Dueler. 
 
 Kiz'zlejik 
 
 Kizil-jik. 
 
 Doove"r 
 
 Duvah. 
 
 Konsk 
 
 K6shk. 
 
 Dumlxfri-ovasy 
 
 Dunbah-ovah-si. 
 
 Koogez 
 
 K6gez. 
 
 Enae 
 
 En4i. 
 
 Koonik 
 
 Kunik. 
 
 Ersek 
 
 Hersek. 
 
 Ko6sdervent 
 
 Kiz-dervend. 
 
 Esky Hissd 
 
 Esky Hisar. 
 
 Kootrfya 
 
 Kutahiyah. 
 
 Esky Stambool 
 
 Eski Stan bill. 
 
 Lefky 
 
 Lefkeh. 
 
 Fornas 
 
 Phurnas. 
 
 Macry 
 
 Makri. 
 
 Ge"bsy 
 
 Gebiseh. 
 
 Manser 
 
 Maghnisa. 
 
 Ghiaourcooe 
 
 Janker-cha'i. 
 
 Mellassa 
 
 Milasah. 
 
 Ghumbat 
 
 Ghriinbat. 
 
 Mo61a 
 
 Mughlah. 
 
 Goojak 
 
 Gujak. 
 
 One-oenoo 
 
 In'oni . 
 
 Goozel hissrf 
 
 Giizel hisar. 
 
 Ooscooda 
 
 Uskudar. 
 
 Hagicooe 
 
 Haji koi. 
 
 PaUattia 
 
 Palatiya. 
 
 HaUU Elly 
 
 Khalileh-li. 
 
 Phin'eka 
 
 Finekeh. 
 
 Hoola 
 
 Hulah. 
 
 Sandooklee" 
 
 Sanduk-li. 
 
 lakly 
 
 Y Ayakli. 
 
 Sans6on 
 
 Sansun. 
 
 Idin 
 
 Aidin. 
 
 Sara cooe 
 
 Sarai koi. 
 
 Iny 
 
 Inch. 
 
 Sh^blac 
 
 Chiblak. 
 
 I'smeer 
 
 Izmir. 
 
 Sichanlee" 
 
 Sichan-li. 
 
 I'smid 
 
 Izmid. 
 
 Soho6t 
 
 Sugi'id. 
 
 Isnic 
 
 Iznik. 
 
 Sokay 
 
 Sokeh. 
 
 Kakava 
 
 Kakavah. 
 
 Soma 
 
 Somali
 
 MENTIONED IN THE JOURNAL. 
 
 347 
 
 As pronounced by 
 the people. 
 
 As written by the Royal 
 Geographical Society. 
 
 As pronounced by 
 the people. 
 
 As written by the Roya 
 Geographical Society. 
 
 Sodsa 
 
 Susah. 
 
 Tekrova 
 
 Tekroveh. 
 
 
 Sparta 
 
 Ispartah. 
 
 Tjrfden 
 
 Chaden. 
 
 
 Stainbool 
 
 Stanbul. 
 
 Vasilicbia 
 
 Vasilikia. 
 
 
 Starus 
 
 Starros. 
 
 Vizierkhan 
 
 Vezir-khan. 
 
 
 Tam'book ka 
 
 asy Pambukkalah.si. 
 
 
 
 
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