;lOSANCElfj> ^OFCAIIFO/?^ 4^ '"^omnw^ >&Aavaaii# ^TiuoNvsoi^ ^WEUNIVERVa ^lOSANCElfjVj. ^UIBRARYQr^ ^lUBRA ^OFCAIIF0% ^OFCAII ^^Aavaain^ ^^ILIBRARYQc^ -^lLlBRARYa<\ ^^WEUNIVERS/A ^ i— S'iji .^ILIBRARYQc. ^ LONDINIANA LONDON : SHACKELL AND BAYLIS, JOHNSOX's-COURT, FLEET-STREET. LONDINIANA; OR, iSeminfecences OF THR BRITISH METROPOLIS INCLUDING CHARACTERISTIC SKETCHES, ANTIQUARIAN, TOPOGRAPHICAL, DESCRIPTIVE, AND LITERARY. BY EDWARD WEDLAKE BRAYLEY, F.S.A. M.R.S.L. &C. &C. The Man who stood on the Acropolis, And looked down over Attica ; or he Who has sail'd where picturesque Constantinople is, Or seen Tombuctoo, or hath taken tea In small-eyed China's crockery-ware metropolis, Or sat amidst the bricks of Nineveh, May not think much of London's first appearance, — But ask him what he thinks of it a year hence ? " Lord Byron. IN FOUR VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: HURST, CHANCE, AND CO. 1829. STACK ANNEX Gil 113 Ji ANALYTICAL TABLE CONTENTS, VOL. II. Page Entertainment of Christian IV., King of Denmark, . 1-5 Christian's visit to the Queen, Anne of Denmark . .His entry into London, and particulars of the Banquets given for his amusement. .Sad disaster of the Queen ofSheba. Lord Mayors . . . . . . 5-T Exemptions from serving the office of Lord Mayor. . Impressing for Choristers . . . .7-9 Ordinance in the time of Henry VI. for pressing Min- strels. .Complaint of Thomas Tusser. Henry the Sijcth ..... 9 Verses composed by him. • Monument of Gower, the Poet . . . 9-11 Some account of Gower. . Editions of his Poem " De Confessione Amantis" . . Description of his Monument in St. Saviour's, Southwark Queen Elizabeth ..... 11-10 Character and Disposition of the Maiden Queen, by Sir John Hariugton. .Her Subtlety, Fondness for Dress, and Tyranny to her Ladies, b 733 VI ANALYTICAL Printing . . . . . .16-16 Foreign Compositors in the reign of Eiizabetb. /restminsier Alley. — yionume7if of Lady Nightingale 17-19 Lady Xighting.-ile's Monument the work of Roubiliac. . .The Subject described. .Critical Remarks. Sheriffs of London ..... 19-32 Particulars of tiie Sheriffdon, by Richard Hoare, Esq. . .Three Lord Mayors in one Year. .Transportation of Felons. .Custom of collecting Charity for the City Prisoners. .Origin of the Easter Entertainments.. Court Baron, and Court Leet . .Court of Conservancy ..Exemption from serving the office of Sheriff.. Mode of Prcclaimiug St. Bartholomew Fair in 1741. Whitehall, anciently called York Place . . I7*-56* Hubert de Burgh erects a mansion on this site. .Be- queathed to the Black Friars.. Sold to Walter Gray, Aichbi>hopof York, and made the Archiepis- copal Palace of that see. . Splendid establishment and pompous living of Cardinal Wolsey atYork Place. . . Wolsey 's disgrace and retirement to Asher. .York Place occupied by King Henry VIII., who erects additional buildings there, and annexes the whole, together with St. James's Park, to his ancient Pa- lace of Westminster. . . .Marriage of that Sovereign with Anne Boleyn, at York Place. .Early occurrence of the appellation W/iitekaU . .Uemy reviews a grand muster of arme 1 Citizens from the Gate-hous3. -.His death.. Splendour of Whitehall iii Queen El'zabeth's reign. .Erection of a Banquetting House for the Eu terrain ment of a French Embassy in 1581 ,. Gorgeous Triumph in the Tilt-yard. .Hentzner's Account of Whitehall in 1.598.. Anecdotes and De- cease of Queen Elizabeth. . Diversions at Whitehall in the reigns of James I. and Charles I, .Masque of " Blacknesse.".. Marriage of the Princess Elizabeth . .Designs for a new Palace by Inigo Jones. .Ban- fiuettipg-house. .Or'I nances for selliijg the Pictures TA13LE OF CONTENTS. Vll . .Suite of Whitehall in the veii^n of CLarle.-; 11.. Curious Dials. . Enterluiiiment of llie Morooco Am- bassador. .Deatli of Charles II. .Popish Chapel of James II. .Destruction of Whitehall by fire. .Cock- pit Gate. .Busts. Speakers of the Ilouae of Commons . • 32-33 Custom of Ihs Speaker to disparage his own abilities . .Speech of Sir Christopher Yelverton. Ejctrnordbiar]] Eixape from DjiUh . . . 33-37 Remarkable Raoovery after Suspension, of William Duell. .Extraordinary Recovery of Anne Greene, at Oxford . . Epigram on the subject. Ingenious Mechanism . . . .37-39 Instance of skilful workmanship in chaining up aFiea. Marshulsea Priso}i, Southwark . . • 3S-39 Army Surgeons in tbe time of Henry VIII. . Tgaorance of, and committal of njany of them to the Marshalsea. Lady Jane Grey 39-40 Account of her early years, by her tutor, Ascham.. Lines written by that Lady in the Tower. Roijul Society .... 40-43 Dr. Wallis's account of the ori^^in of that Society.. Charter of lucorporation granted by Charles II.. . Curious Letter from Sir Isaac Newton. Character of a Gull .... 43-45 Epigrams by Christopher Mariow and Sir John Davis of a Gull— Meditations of a Gull. Admiral Vernon, and the Duchess of Marlborouich . 45-46 Vernon stigmatized by Lord Byron as " the Butcher.'' . .Anniversary of his Birth-day. Provisionsm Queen Elizabeth'' s Reign . . 46-48 Prices of Provisions from an old Household account for the years 1594 and 1595. WaUc of Robin Conscience througli London . 48-55 Analysis and Extracts from the satirical ballad of " Robin Conscience, or Couscionable Robin," illus- Irating the habits of tbe Londoners, b Z Vlll ANALYTICAL Eaalcheap, and the Boar's Head Tavern . . 55-61 Abode of Dame Quickly. ." London licke Penny,'' a satirical soug. .Geoffrey Crayon. .Tlie Boar's Head the 'Chief Tavern in London'. .Goldsmith's " Re- verie''. .Anecdote of the Princes Thomas and John, sons of Henry IV. .Epitaph on Robert Preston, the Boar's Head Drawer Westmiufiter Abbey. —Monument of the Great Earl of Chatham ...... 62-64 Designed by Bacon. .Description of the Monument, and critical remarks. .Anecdote of George III. Fire of London, — Conduits destroyed . . 64-65 Quaint account of the " Spoiling of the City Conduits." Parish Churches erected in London, by Sir Christopher Wren, after the Great Fire . . . 66-70 Sir Christopher Wren appointed Assistant Surveyor- General to Sir John Denham. .Succeeds him in oflace. .Enumeration of Parish Churches erected by Sir Christopher. .Cost of Building each. .Other Pub- lie Works erected by the same Architect. .Repairs of Westminster Abbey. St. Paul's Cathedral.— Walkers in Paul's . . 70-74 Disorderly Conduct in St. Paul's. .Ancient Inscription on the doors. .St. Paul's, a thoroughfare for Porters. . . Lines for Donations . . Irreverent practices in the time of Elizabeth. .Houses built against the walls. Great Plague of London.— Story of the Blind Piper. 74-76 Anecdote of the Blind Piper, as related by De Foe. Merchant Taylors' Co77ip any and Hall . . 76-84 Origin of the Company. . Confirmation from Edward I. - .The Pilgrim . . Incorporated by Edward IV. . Rein- corporated by Henry VII. .Members of the Company . .Splendid Entertainment given to James I.. .History and Description of the Hall. .Extracts from the Company's books, relating to the above Entertaiu- mer. t. TABLE OF CONTENTS. IX God save the King, and Non nobis Domitie. — Epitaph onSal.Pavij .... 84-88 Mr. Richard Clarke's origin of our National Anthem, "God save the King''. . " Non nobis, Domine," com- posed by William Byrde .** God save the King" at- tributed to Dr. Bull, by Mr. Clarke, but erroneousl;-. Epitaph on S.P. [Salomon Pavy], by Ben Jonson. . Some account of that youth. Pentonville, and St. James's Chapel . . 88-89 Origin of the name of Pentonville. .Chapel erected . . Description of the Chapel. Clothworker's Company and Hall . . 89-90 Clothworker's Company Incorporated by Edward IV. . . Reincorporated by Queen Elizabeth. . Description of the Hall Forced Loans in Queen Elizabeth's Reign . 90-91 Benevolences, and forced Loans. .Assessment on the City Companies in Queen Elizabeth's reign. IVestminster Abbey. — Shrine of St. Edward the Con- fessor ..... 91-100 Chapel of Edward the Confessor — Edward's decease; and offerings made at his tomb by William the Norman. .Coronation of William. .Miracles and Canonization of King Edward. .Translation of his remains by Archbishop Becket ; and retranslation into the New Shrine, erected by Henry III.. The Shrine described. . Inscriptions. .Mistakes as to the Italian artist Cavalini. .Reliques deposited in St. Edward's chapel .. Veneration of his Kiemory. . Particular observances on St. Edward's Day. . Mortal seizure of Henry IV. .Offerings at St. Ed- ward's shrine after the victory at Azincourt. .Offer- ings of Edward IV. .Oblations of Richard III. JVesfminster Abbey, ancient Coronation Chair, and Prophetic Stone . . . J 00- 121 Coronation Chair. .Prophetic or Fatal .Stone. .Tradi- X ANALYTICAL tioijiiry story of its having been Jacob's pillow. , Account of this Stone by Fordun, in his " Scoto Chronico}c''\ . Aecouut of, by Holinsbed. .Mentioned in the nianusci'ipt additions to Robert of Gloucester's Chronicle. .History of the Stone in " Wintownis Chronikii'^ .Brought into Ireland. . Its property of issuing souuds. .Taken into Scotland. .Inclosed in a wooden chair. .Last of the Scottish kings cro\%ned in th's seat. .Removed from Arjyie to Scone, by Ken- neth II. .Conveyed to London by Edward I. .Vast importance attached to it by the Scots .. Conference between Edward III. and David, Kingof Scotland. . Description of the Prophetic Stone. .Its raineralo- gical character .. How described by ancient Histo- rians. .Coronation Chair made in Edward the First's reign.. Description of the same in its ancient and present state. .Coronation of Charles II . . Chair made lor the coronation of Queen Mary. FishniQiigers^ Company and Htill . . 12] -125 Jup.ction of the two companies of Salt and Stock Fish- mongers. .Incorporated by Henry VIII.. Fined in the reijin of Edward I.. Strong prejudice excited against them . .Disputes between the Company and the Goldsmiths.. Their Hall destroyed by the Fire of London. .Rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren.. Pulled down in 1827. . Statue in wood of Sir Wi!!!am Walworth, Knt. .Lines beneath the statue. . Sir Wil- liam's burial, and fune-f-al pall. .Pictures. Great and Little Turnstiles, Holism . . 125-128 Derivation of the two Turnstiles. . Books published at the Turning Siila in Kolborn. .Strype's account of Great Turnstile. . New Turnstile. Deanery at Westminster. — Jernsaleni Chamber, and Death of Henry IF. , . College Hall and Kitchen 1 26- 1 30 Deanery, formerly tiie abode of the Abbots of West- minster, .built by Abbot Litlingtou. .Pictures in the TABLE OF CONTENTS. XI Deanery. .Painted Ghiss. .Tapestry. .Puiuting of Richard II.. Death of Heary IV. in the Jerusalem Chamber.. The College Hall, now Dining Hall of the Westminster Scholars. .The Abbot's Kitchen. Vintners Company and Hall . . . 130, 134 Vintinarij and Tabernarij. .Price of Gascoij-rne and Rhenish wines. .Merchant Vintners. . Privileges granted to the Vintners' Company. .Vintners' Hall. . .Stody Place. . Destroyed by the fire. .Description of the present edifice. . the Couit Room. . Portraits. ..An Aldermannic Jeu d'Ejprit. Eishopsgate Street.— iMansion, and Blo'jraphical Sketch of Sir Paul Pindar . . . . 134-137 ALinsion of Sir Paul.. his family, .apprenticed to an Italian merchant, .appointed Ambassador to the Grand Stignor. .made a Farmer of the Customs. . furnishes the Crown with Money and Jewels, .large Diamond, .his Manufactory of Alum, .his immense riches. .Suicide of his Executor. .Buried at St. Bo- tolph's, Bisbopsgate. .his Leaden Coffin, .his Gifts towards the repairing of St. Paul's. Ben Jonson's Masque of Christmas — Places in Lon- don in James the First's Reign . . 137-140 Masque *' presented at Court'' in 1616. .The Drama- tis Personae. .Extracts from the song of Old Christ- mas. .Bosom's Inn. .Fill-pot Lane. .Scalding Alley ..Distaff Lane. .Pur Alley- .Honey Lane. .Thread- needle StVeet. .Penny Rich Street. .Crooked Lane. Clothwor/cers' Company arid Hall - - 140-141 Incorporation of the Clothwovkers by Edward the IVth ; and Reincorporation by Queen Elizabeth. . Clothworkers' Hall. .Screen. .Carved Statues of James I. and Charles L Dec npitatio n of La dy Jane Grey . . 141-144 Lady Jane beheaded in 1554. .Her heroism, as stated by Howes. .Account of her behaviour on the Scaf- Xll ANALYTICAL fold, from a rare tract.. Lines scratched on the walls of her Prison ascribed to her. .Translation of the same. Chris fs Hospital, Newgate Street , . 145-16 Grey Friars.. Their settlement in London.. John Ewin. .Library founded by Whittington . .Friary sur- rendered to Henry the Eighth.. Church used as a , depository for French goods . . Illustrious persons buried there. .Necessities of the Poor. .Establish- ments founded by Henry. .Exhortation of Bishop Ridley.. Zeal of Edward the Sixth, who writes to Sir Richard Dobbs, Lord Mayor, in favour of the Poor. .Establishment of Christ's Hospital. .Endow- ments. .Benefactions. .Establishment at Hertford. . Dress of the Boys.. Christ Church suffers in the great fire.. New Church built by Sir Christopher Wren. .Building of Christ's Hospital. .Mathemati- cal School.. Old Hall .. Writing School. .Lavatory ..Grammar School.. The New Hall particularly described. . Public Suppers. .Dietary of the Boys. . Course of Instruction. .Scholarships. .Government of the Hospital.. Portraits. .Inscription under the portrait of Sir Richard Dobbs . . Extensive Charities vested in the Governors. Aerostation. — Vincent Lnnardi. — Adam and Eve Tea- Gardens .... 161-165 First aerostatic experiment in England. .Lunardi's in- tended Ascent from Chelsea — Attempt of De Moret . .Lunardi accommodated with the Artillerj-Ground . . His Balloon exhibited at the Lyceum . . The Prince of Wales witnesses his Ascent. . Fright of the Country People on his descent at Ware.. His se- cond Ascent, and imminent danger. .Falls within the Adam and Eve Tea Gardens. .Hogarth's march to Finchley..Totenhall. Bridewell Hospital , Bridge Street , Blackfriars 1 6<5- 1 69 Ancient Palace. .Residence of Wolsey. .Extortions of TABLE OF CONTENTS. Xlll Henry VIII... That monarch rebuilds Bridewell. . Bridge over the Fleet. .Question of Henry's mar- riage with Katharine of Arragon. .London filled with dissolute persons. .Letter of Bishop Ridley to Sir William Cecyl.. Charter of Bridewell Hospital granted by Edward VI.. .His portrait in the ancient Chapel. .Lines inscribed under it.. Extent of the Hospital, as delineated in Ralph Aggas's Plan of London.. The Hall. .Portraits. .Committee Room ..Chapel.. Tread Mill. Faubert's Vassage — Riding Academy . . 169-171 Faubert's Passage. .Swallow Street. .Riding Academy established by Major Faubert. .Description of it by Evelyn. .Converted into Livery Stables. Temple Bar — Butchers' Roiv . . 171-176 Ancient Bar across the Street. .Temple Bar, the pre- sent edifice erected by Sir Christopher Wren. .Des- cription of the building. .Traitors' heads placed on it.. Singular story concerning the head of Counsel- lor Layer. .Dr. Rawlinson. .Butcher Row. .Market granted by Edward I.. .Betty's Chop House. .Resi- dence of Count Beaumont.. Due de Sully lodged there .. Ireland's Shakspeare forgeries.. Neighbour- ing Inns. Lndgate^Prison Thoughts . . 176-178 Ludgate. .Bowyer's Row. .Fabulous origin of Lud- gate. -Rebuilt by the Barons.. Statues. .Ludgate converted into a free prison. .Enlarged by the libe- rality of Stephen and Agnes Forster. .Inscription on it. .Damaged by the Fire. .Repaired. .Pulled down ..Statue of Queen Elizabeth fixed against the wall of St. Dunstan's Church.. Browning's Prison Thoughts. .Verses on Patience. Dr. Franklin— Duke Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields 178-180 Franklin's arrival in London. .Engaged as a Compo- sitor. .Lodges in Duke Street. .His suppers .Account of an English Nun. XIV ANALYTICAL Prices of Wearing' Apparel in the Reign of Edward the Sixth. . . . . 180-181 Peter Martvr, aud Bernardinns Ocbin invited into this country.. Original bill oi' their expenses. .Extracts concerning their Wearing Apparel. St. Saviour's Church, or St. Mary Overy's,Southwark \S\-IS5 Account of ihe orig;in of St. Mary Overy's, by Stow. . Questioned by Maitland and others. .Austin Canons settled here.. The Priory " burned''. .Rebuilt in the reign of Kenry IV...Gower, the poet, a great benefactor. .Buried here. .Surrender of the Priory to Henry VIII., .Pension of Prior Liusied. .Church made parochial. .Description of the Church.. Re- cent repairs. .Curious screen. Bangor House, Shoe Lane . . , 1 §5-1 87 Map ascribed to Ralph Aggas. .Situation of Bacgor House, .residence of Bishop Doulben. .the messuage purchased by Sir John Barkslead. .deserted as an episcopal residence, .pulled down. .Oldborne Hall. Thavie's Ian, Holborn . . . J 87-188 Mansion and bequests of John Thavy. .bis Inn pur- chased by the benchers of Lincoln's Inn, and made an Inn of Chancery. .Sold to Thomas Middleton, Esq.. .destroyed b\ fire.. the present buildings ad- judged to be extra-parochial. Billingsgate ..... 189-191 A Water Gate of the City . .attributed to Belin . . made a Free Port. .Account of it by Stow. .Recent Improve- ments at Billingsgate.. Character of the ** Fisher- women,'' by Lupton. Council Chamber of King Henry the Eighth . 101-192 Wood-cut of the Council Chamber, in Hall's Chronicle. . . Ftic-simile in Eibdin's " Typographical Anti- quities.". .Council Chamber described. Warwick House, Cloth Fair,— Lady HoUancVs Mob 192-193 Warwick House erected in Queen Elizabeth's Reign. TABLE OF CO.NTENTS. XV ..Residence of Robert, P'iirl of Warwick . .Cloth Fair..MidiiigLt Proclamation of St. Ruriholomew'!* Fair. Curl (sJe House, Lambetlt . . . 193-195 When built .. called Rochester Place.. residence of Bisbop Fisher. .The Bishop's Cook boiled alive in Smithfield. .Exchange made with Henry the Vlllth . .Called Carlisle House. .Sold by the Parliament. . How occupied, .pulled down White Conduit House, Islington . . 195-19T Origin of the name. .Ancient Conduit. . Description of the grounds iu 1774. .AVhite Conduit Loaves. - Graham, the aeronaut. .Minor Vauxhail. .Dobney's Bowling Green.. Ducking Pond. niietstone's Far/c, Lincoln's Inn Fields . 197-198 " Le Spencer's Lond.''. . Houses erected in the Reign of Charles the Second. .Phillip's Rents. .Pargiter's Court. .Vicious inhabitants of Whetstone Park. The Charter House .... 198-223 Derivation of the name — Chartreuse. .No Alan's Land . .Pardon Church, Hawe and Chapel. .New Church Hawe — Sir Walter de Manny. . Foundation of a Con- vent for Carthusian Monks. .Surrendered to Henry VIII. . Piior Hov.ghtou, and others, executed for denying the King's Supremacy. .Cruelties towards the Monks.. Their Alms-giving. .Revenues of the Convent. .Singular Vision of a Carthusian Monk.. Grant of the Site of the Charter-house. . Purchased by Howard, fourth Duke of Norfolk. .Visits of Queen Elizabeth. .Execution of the Duke of Norfolk. ..James the First holds his Court here. .Sketch of the life of Thomas Sutton, Esq. ..His education, travels, and marriage.. SaiUng of the Spanish Armada delayed by his agency. .Lends money on interest and mortgage... designs the foundation of an Hospital. .Purchases the Charter House. .Charter XVI ANALYTICAL granted by King James. . Nominates a Master. . His death. . Claims made by his Nephew. . Act of Confir- mation. .Buildings- .Great Hall. .Chapel . . Monu- ment of the Founder. .Brooke Hall. .Governor's Room. .Court Room. . Anniversary. .Old Carthusian Melody . . Library . . Governors . . Pensioners and Scholars. .Education.. Exhibitions and Ecclesiasti- cal Preferments. .The Green and Wilderness.. Charter House Square.. Revenues. Old Bailey — Birth-Place of Camden — Memoir of Peter Bales— Green Arbour Court . . 223-22T Ancient state of the Old Bailey. . Birth and notice of Camden.. His strict regard to veracity. .Peter Bales, the celebrated Penman. . Instance of his skill. Curious Epigram. .Arms of Calligraphy. .Little Old Bailey.. Green Arbour Court. . Residence of Gold- smith, the Poet. .Prynne's " Histrio-Mastix'' sold there. .Break-neck Stairs. The Strand — Various Mansions of the Nobility and Prelates .... 227-230 Ancient state of the Strand. .Essex House. .Chapel of St. Spirit. . Arundel House. .Chester's Ion.. Strand Bridge. .Bishop of Chester's Inn.. Bishop of Wor- cester's Inn. .Somerset House.. Stone Cross.. May- Pole. .Savoy.. Worcester House. .Salisbury House. . .Ivy Bridge. . Durham House. .York House. . Nor- thumberland House. .Wimbledon House. .Exeter House. Durham House, Salisbury House, and Worcester House .... 230-23 Durham House, .an Inn of the Bishops of Durham. . Exchanged with Henry VIII. for Cold Harborougli ..Converted into a Royal Palace, .Tournament at Westminster. .Durham House bestowed by Ed- ward IV. on his sister Elizabeth .Marriage hereof Lady Jane Grey. .Reversion granted by Queen TABLE OF CONTENTS. XVll Mary to the see of Durham. .New Exchange. .Adel- phi erected on the site of Durham Place. .Salisbury House. .Salisburj' Street. . IMiddle Exchange. . Wor- cester House, formerly called Carlisle House. .Rus- sel House and Bedford House. .Beaufort Buildings. Old London Bridge . . . 236-272 Early meatiou of a Bridge over the Thames, by Dion Cassius. .Irruption of Olaf the Dane. .Attack on the City by Sweyn.. Tolls at Bylyngesgate. .Stow's Account of the Foundation of the Bridge. .Descrip- tion of the Bridge by Snorro SturJesonius, and tri- umphal songs of the Norse Bards. .Canute's Trench. .Swept away by a Tempest.. The Bridge rebuilt by William Rufus, and again by Peter of Colechurch .. Erection of a new Stone Bridge.. Death and interment of Peter of Colechurch.. Dreadful calamity by Fire.. Towers or Gates.. Drawbridge. .Five arches carried away by the ice. . .Head of Wallace placed on the northern Tower. . . Grand Passage of Arms. . Entrance into the City of King Richard and his Queen, Isabel. .Pageant on the Bridge. . Dangerous passage beneath. .Insur- rection of Jack Cade.. Attack by the Bastard Fal- conbridge. .Insurrection of Sir Thomas Wyatt.. View of the Bridge in Queen Elizabeth's reign.. Ravages by Fire. .Buildings removed from the Bridge in 1756. .Description of its condition at that period. .Erection of a temporary Bridge of Timber . .Description of the Ancient Chapel. .Fish Pond in the Sterling. . Nonsuch House. . A])plications to Par- liament for power to erect a New Bridge. .The first Stone laid. .The New Bridge. .Discoveries made in laying the Foundations. .Coins^ Seals, cfec. .Statue of Harpocrates. .Manner of the construction of the Old Bridge. . Howel's imitation of Sannazario's Sonnet to the Citv of Venice. XVIII ANALYTICAL Tower of London in Henry the Sixth's Reign — Charles, Duke of Orleans . . . 272-274 Oldest View of the Tower and City of London. . Ma- nuscript Volume of Sonnets, &c. by Charles, Duke of Orleans. .Illuminated Drawing of the Tower described . . Brief notices of the Duke of Orleans. Suffolk or Kort/iU!ttberIand House, Strand . 274-277 Ancient Kospital of St. Mary de Rouncival. .Becomes the possession of the Earl of Northampton, who erects a splendid Mansion on its site. .Northampton House.. Suffolk House. .Northumberland House. Scotland Yard .... 277-280 Ancient Palace of the Kings of Scotland. .Residence of Margaret, sister of Henry VIIT... State of, in the reign of Charles I. . .House of Sir John Vanbrugb. ..Anecdote of Lord Herbert of Cherbury. St. James's ChurcJu Piccadilly . . 250-2S3 Erected by Sir Christopher Wren. .Made parochial. . The interior described— Baptismal Font.. Notice of the Altar, by Evelyn. Black Friars, near Holborn — Lincoln's Inn • 283 Establishment of Black Friars near "Oldborne". .Their removal to the present Bhickfriars. .Site of their old house, granted to Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln ..Demesne of the Bishop of Chichester. .Lincoln's Inn . . The Hall . . Gate House . . Chapel . . Searle's Court, or Lincoln's Inn New Square. .Stone Build- ings. .Library. .Six Clerks' Office. .Gardens. Clerkenwell Close— Cromivell Place . . 287-288 Pveputed residence of Oliver Cromwell. .Occupied by the noted Justice Blackborougb.. Cromwell Place. Salters' Company and Hall . . 288-291 Incorporation of the Company. .Government. .Salters' Hall.. Oxford Place.. The New Hall. . Elect ion Hall. .Wailing Room. .Curious record of Ancient Festivity. TAIiLE OF CONTENTS. XlX Bartholomew Fair, Smithfcld - . 291-296 Privileiie of lioldiug a Fair, granted by Henry II. to St. Bartholomew's Priory. .Cloth Fair. .Court of '' Pied-poudre"... Reprint of a rare Tract. Stepney— Pxesidence of Denn Colet . . 297-298 Dean Cole t, founder of St. Paul's School. .Declaims against Romish abuses .Colet Place. Roifal H'lnwne Sociehj . . . 298-301 Origin of the Society. .Dr. Hawes. .Rewards offen^d by him.. Persons saved from premature death.. Processes for the Resuscitation of suspended anima- tion, particularly fromdrowuing. .Receiving Houses. St. James s Palace . . • . 301-309 Hospital for Leprous Maidens. ..Visitations of the Ab- bots of Westminster. .Palace erected by Henry VIII. ...Supposed Architect.. Additions made by Charles I. ..Gallery of Staines. .Chapel Royal. .German Chapel. .Friery.. Becomes a general residence of ourSovereijyns. .Georoe IV. born here.. Royal Li- brary . . Euildinc^s . . Margaret Nicholson. .Queen Caroline's Library. .Pictures. .Yeomen. .Garrison of St. James's London, in the Interregnum . . 310-312 Proclamations torestrainbuilding in London. .Sapient remarks of King James. .Inefficacy of restrictive ordinances. .View of London. LI3T OF PLATSS IN VOL. II. London, in ]V}57 ..To ftce the Title Page. Royal Palace, Whitehall, Eastern or River Front, as de- signed by Inigo Jones n* • Ditto. Western or Street Front .... 44* XX LIST OF PLATES. Palace of Whitehall in Charles the Second's reigu, anuo 16S0 50» Whitehall, (fee. from St. James's Park, about 1720 . . 56* -Vrerchant Tailors' Hall 76 Westminster Abbey, Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor 91 Fishmongers' Hal], in June 1827 1:2/ Vintners' Hall 130 Remains of Sir Paul Pindar's Mansion, Bishopsgate Street, 1^06 134 Lodge of Sir Paul Pindar, about 1760 137 Clothworkers' Hall 140 Christ Church Hospital, in 1720 145 Christ's Hospital, within the Cloisters, 1800 • ... 154 Bridewell Hospital, in 1720 165 Temple Bar, from Butcher Row, 1800, looking east . . 171 Church of St. Mary Overie, or St. Saviour, Southwark, about 1660 ISl Council Chamber of King Henry VIII 191 The Charter-House, about 1720 198 Durham House, Salisbury House, Worcester House, about 1630 230 Old London Bridge, in 1825 236 Tower of London, in Henrj- the Sixth's reign 272 Suffolk House, about 1630 274 Scotland Yard , 277 The Font in St. James's Church, Piccadilly .... 280 Lincoln's Inn, about J 720 - . , 283 Buildings in Clerkenwell Close, in 1791 287 Salters' Hall 288 Dean Colet's House, Stepney 297 St. James's Palace 301 LONDINIANA. ENTERTAINMENT OF CHRISTIAN IV. Christian the Fourth, King of Denmark, came to England on the 17th of July, J 606, on a visit to the Queen, Anne of Denmark, his sister ; and he con- tinued in this country till the 11th of the following month. During his residence here, he was treated with extraordinary magnificence and revelling. His entry into London was graced by the citizens with a similar display of pageantry as had been customary at the coronation of their own sovereigns. Both James and Christian rode through the city in grand proces- sion, preceded by the Lord Mayor, bearing a golden sceptre, and followed by a most splendid train of British and Danish nobility. ** Upon the Great Foun- tain, in Cheapside," Stow says, " was erected the Bower of the Muses ; and near the Pageant, by the Goldsmith' s-row, where sat the great elders of the VOL. I. B 2J LONDINIANA. city, in scarlet robes, the Recorder made a solemn oration in Latin, and presented the King of Denmark with a curious cup of massy gold."* Several of the conduits ran with wine ; and at that in Fleet-street was a pleasant pastoral device, with songs, " where- with the Kings were much delighted." On the follow- ing day the royal Dane visited the principal public buildings, and a few days afterwards he was splendidly banquetted. Of this carousal, and of the general hilarity and riot occasioned by Christian's visit. Sir John Harington, Queen Elizabeth's godson, has given the following particulars, in a letter, from London, to Mr. Secretary- Barlow, inserted in the first volume of the Ifiigre Antiqucr. " I came here a day or two before the Danish king came, and from the day he did come untill this hour, I have been well nigh overwhelmed with carousal and sports of all kinds. The sports began each day in such manner and such sorte, as well nigh persuaded me of Mahomet's paradise. We had women, and indeed wine too, of such plenty, as would have astonished each sober beholder. Our toasts were magnificent, and the two loyal guests did raost lovingly embrace each othei- at table. I think the * The gooJ citizens had probably divined his majesty of Den- mark's taste for drink mg-, and therefore concluded that a cup would be an acceptable present. Howell, in his ' Familiar Letters, describes an entertainment given by the same mo- narch, in 1632, at Rhensburgh : from which the king, after giving thirfy-five toasts, was carried away in his chair; and mon of his officers were so drunk that they could not rise till late the next day. LONDINTANA. 3 Dane hath strangely wrought on our good English nobles ; for those whom I never could get to taste good liquor, now follow the fashion and wallow in beastly delights. The ladies abandon their sobriety, and are seen to roll about in intoxication. In good sooth the parliament did kindly to provide his majestie so reasonably with money, for there hath been no lack of good livinge ; shews, sights, and banquetings from morn to eve. " One day a great feast was held, and after dinner, the representation of Solomon in his Temple and the Coming of the Queen of Sheba was made ; or, as I may better say, was meant to be made, before their majesties, by de- vice of the Earl of Salisbury and others. But idas ! as all earthly thinges do fail to poor mortals in enjoyment, so did prove our presentment hereof. The lady who did play the queen's part, did carry most precious gifts to both their majesties ; but, forgetting the steppes arising to tlw; canop}-, overset her caskets into his Danish majesties lap, and fell at his feet, though I rather think it M'as in his face. Much was the hurry and confusion ; but cloths and napkins were at hand to make all clean. His majesty then got up and would dance with the Queen of Sheba: but he fell down and humbled himself before her, and was carried to an inner chamber, and laid on a bed of state, which was not a little defiled with the presents of the queen, which had been bestowed on his garments ; such as wine, cream, jelly, beverage, cakes, spices, and other good matters. The entertainment and show went forward, and most of the presenters went backward, or fell down ; wine did so occupy their upper chambers. Now did appear, in rich dress, Hope, Faith, and Charity. Hope did essay to speak, but wine rendered her endeavours so feeble that she with- drew, and honed the king would excuse h^r brevity : B 2 4 LONDlNIANi^. Faith was then all alone, for I am certain she was aot joyned with good works, and left the court in a staggering condition : Charity came to the king's feet, and seemed to cover the multitude of sins her sister had committed ; in some sorte she made obeysance and brought giftes, but said she would return home again, as there was no gift which Heaven had not already given his majesty ! She then returned to Hope and Faith, who w ere both sick and spewing in the lower hall. Next came Victory, in bright armour, who presented a rich SM'ord to the king, who did not accept it, but put it by with his hand ; and by a strange medley of versification, did endeavour to make suit to the king. But Victory did not triumph long ; for, after much lamentable utterance, she was led away like a silly captive, and laid to sleep in the outer steps of the anti-chamber. Now did Peace make entry, and strive to get foremoste to the king; but I grieve to tell how great wrath she did discover unto those of her attendants ; and much contrary to her semblance, most rudely made war with her olive- branch, and laid on the pates of those who did oppose her coming. '' I have much marvelled at these strange pageantries, and they do bring to my remembrance what passed of this sort in our queen's days, of which I was sometime an humble presenter and assistant ; but I ne'er did see such lack of good order, discretion, and sobriety, as I have now done. I have passed much time in seeing the royal sports of hunting and hawking, where the manners w^ere such as made me devise [that] the beasts were pursuing the sober creation, and not man in quest of exercise or food. I will now, in good sooth, declare to you, who will not blab, that the Gunpowder fright is got out of all our heads, and we are going on, hereabouts, as if the Devil was contriving every man should blow up himself, by wild riot, excess, LONDIMANA. 5 and devastation of time and temperance. The great ladies do go well-masked, and indeed it be the only shew of their modesty to conceal their countenance ; but alack ! they meet with such countenance to uphold their strange doings, that I marvel not at aught that happens. The lord of the mansion [the Earl of Salisbury], is overwhelmed in preparations at Theobalds, and doth marvelously please both Kings with good meat, good drink, and good speeches. I do often say (but not aloud), that the Danes have again conquered the Britains, for I see no man, or woman either, that can now command himself, or herself. I wish I was at home : — O rus qumido te aspiciam ? — and I will, before the prince Vaudemont cometh." LORD MAYORS. There are numerous instances in the city archives, of persons being exempted from serving the office of Lord Mayor ; although not without some special cause, as age, infirmity, sickness, &c. In the 19th of Henry VI., John Reynolds was excused on account of sick- ness, during life, and " not to be put in election." In the 16th of Edward IV., the common council ordered that neither Matthew Phillips, nor Richard Bernes, aldermen, should be elected, or admitted mayor, during life. Sir William Taylor, in the 19th of the same reign, late lord mayor, was discharged from serving again, against his will, on account of his great age, &c. In the 9th of Henry VII., John Ward was ex- empted for ever ; and, in return, he gave " of his own free will " a quantity of lead to the new aqueducts. In the 10th, 13th, 14th, and 17th of the same reign, it was ordained by the common council, that Sir h LONDINTANA. Henry Colet, knt., William White, Robert Tate, and Sir William Martin, all of whom " had honourably and laudably served the office of mayor," should not be obliged to serve again without their own consent. In the 14th of Henry VHT., Alderman Fenrother was excused for three years, upon paying 100 marks in ready money. In the following year Alderman George Monoux was elected mayor, and on his neglecting to appear after being divers times called upon by letter and otherwise, he was ordered to be fined lOOOZ. sterling ; and on the 13th of October, x^lderman Baldry was elected in his stead. At the same time that Monoux was fined, it was enacted by the court, that whatsoever alderman should, in future, be chosen, and absent, or withdraw, himself from the city, '' only to the intent that he will not take upon him the charge of the same mayoralty," he should forfeit 1000/. The next year Alderman Monous, on his petition and bill of supplication, alleging his great age and feeble- ness, and offering to give a brew-house, adjoining to the bridge-house, in Southwark, to the city, in consider- ation of being discharged from the office of alderman, had the decree against him revoked, and his request granted on some especial conditions. In the 2 2d of Henry VHI., Sir William Boteler was exempted for continued impotency and sickness ; and in the 21st of Ehzabeth, Alderman Box '* was respited from the office of mayor, through ill health, and upon payment of 200/." During the Protectorate, anno 1652, Sir Simon Edmunds, lord mayor elect, " declaring his LONDINIANA. 7 inability of health and body, being in the 73d year of his age, for executing the said office," was exempted for ever, on the payment of 600/. In 1704, Sir Thomas Cooks was excused from serving by the common council ; and Sir Owen Buckingham was elcv'ted in his room. In 1709, Sir Jeffery Jeflferies was exempted, after election, he being then ill at Bath. In 1740, Alderman George Heathcote, M. P., who had executed the office of sheriff in the preceding year, was excused on the pleas of ill-health, the fatiguing employment he had just been discharged from, and the more than ordinary attendance which he should be obliged to give, the next sessions, in parliament. IMPRESSING FUR CHORISTERS. The evils of impressing seamen to man the navy has been frequently the theme of indignant remark ; but it is little known that in former times, even Min- strels and Singing children might be pressed into the service of the crown ; and that parents were liable to have their offspring torn from their homes to become choristers in the royal chapels. Warton notices an ordinance of the time of Henry the Sixth for ** press- ing minstrels ;" and Strype informs us, that in the year 1 550, a commission was granted to Phillip Van Wilder, gentleman of the privie chamber, *« to take to the king's use," in " anie churches or chapells within England, such and so many singing children and choristers as he and his deputy thought good." Again, in the following year, the master of the king's chapel 8 LONDINIANA. had licence " to take up, from time to time, as many Children to serve the King's Chapel as he shall think fit." Thomas Tusser, the well-known agricultural poet, writing of himself in queen Elizabeth's reign, thus complains : — " Then for my voyce I must (no choice) Away; offeree Like posting-horse. For sundry men Had placards, then. Such child to take (The better breaste. The lesser reste) To serve the queen ; For time so spente I may repente, And sorrow e make." At the time when Tusser was thus impressed for the queen's chapel, he was a chorister in the collegiate church of Wallingford, in Berkshire. He afterwards became a musician, a farmer, a grazier, and a poet ; but his success was not equal to his industry. His " Five Hundred Pointes of good Husbandrie " is both an entertaining and a judicious work. Much curious information may be gathered from it, illustrative of the customs of his age ; and there is a sprightliness and vigour in many of the lines, which enliven the subject, and occasionally verge both into pleasantry and LONDINIANA, 9 wit. His directions for the culture of a Hop-garden conclude with the following epigrammatic point : — *■ " * The Hop,' for his profit, I thus do exalt, It strengtheneth drinke, and it favoureth malt ; And being well brewed, long kept it will last. And drawing abide, — if ye draw not too fast." HENRY THE SIXTH. It is not generally known that this meek-spirited, but bigotted and priest-ridden sovereign was a humble votary of the Muses. The following curious, and not inelegant verses appear to have been composed by him whilst in a state of suffering ; and, probably, when made a prisoner by Sir James Haryngton. " Kingdomes are but cares ; State ys devoyd of staie ; Ryches are redy snares. And hastene to decaie. " Plesure ys a pryvie pryeke Which vyce doth styll provoke ; Pompe, unprompt ; and fame, a flayme ; Power, a smoulderyng smoke. " Who meenethe to remofFe the rocke Owte of the slymie mudde. Shall myre hymselfe, and hardlie scape The swellynge of the flodde." NugJDINIANA. cer, who thus speaks of him, and the '^ pJiilosophicair* Strode, at the end of his '* Troilus and Cressida,"" " O morall Gower, this boke I directe To thee, and to the philosophical! Strode, To vouchsafe, ther nede is, to correcte Of your benignitees and zeles good." Gower's poem " De Confessione Amantis," was first printed by Caxton, in September, 1483, and by Berthelette, in " Fletestrete," in 1532, and again in March, 1554. The Address to the Reader, in the latter edition, includes the following particulars of his monument, in St, Mary Overies Church, now St. Saviour's, Southwark. " John Gower prepared for his bones a restynge place in the Monasterie of Saint Marie Overes, where somewhat after the olde facion, he lieth right sumptuousely buried, with a garlande on his head, in token that he in his life daies flourished freshely in literature and science. And the same monumente in remembrance of hym erected, is on the north side of the foresaid churche, in the chapell of Sainte John, where he hath of his owne foundacion a masse daily songe. And moreover, he hath an obite yerely, done for hym within the same churche, on Fridaie after the feaste of the blessed pope Saynte Gregorie. " Beside, on the wall where he lieth, there be painted three Virgins, with crownes on their heades, one of the whiche is written Cbaritie, and she holdeth this devise in her honde. " E7i toy qui es Fitz de Dieu le Fere Sauve soit, qui gist sonz cest piere** " The second, is written Mercie, whiche holdeth in hir hande this devise ; LONDINIANA. 11 " O hone Jesu^ fait ta mercie^ Al Almey dont le corps gist icy." " The third of them is writteo Pitee^ whiche holdeth in hii' hande, this devise folowynge : — " Pur ta pite Jesu regarde, Et met eest alme in sauve garde ^ " And thereby hangeth a table, wherein appereth that whosoever praith for the soule of John Gower, he shall so oft as he so doth have a M and D daies of pardon." When St. Mary Overies was rebuilt in the reign of Richard II., and Henry IV., Gower was " an especial benefaiCtor to that worke." Stow, who says, ' that he had neither a garland of ivie nor of roses,' describes his * Image,* thus : — " The haire of his head aburne, long on his shoulders, but curling up; and a long forked beard: on his head a chaplet, like a coronet of foure roses; an habite of pur- ple, damasked down to his feete; a collar of esses of gold, about his necke, and vnder his feete the likenesse of three bookes, which he compiled;" viz: 1. Speculum Meditantisy written in French : 2. Vox Clamanti^y in Latin ; and 5, Con* fessio Amantis^ in English.* QUEEN ELIZABETH. Sir John Harington, in a letter written to his friend Mr. Robert Markham, in 1606, and published • Stow adds, " This last is printed. Vox Clamantis, with his Cronica Tripartita, and others both in Latine, and Freiach, never printed, I have, aqd doe possesse; but Speculum Meditantt's, I never saw, though heard thereof to be in Kent,'' Vide "Survay of London;*' p. 1$5, Ddd 4 : Edit. iai8. 12 LONDINIi\NA. ill the ^ XugcB Antiques.' has thus curiously delineated the character and disposition of our Maiden Queen. " I marvell to thynk what strange humors do conspire to patch up the natures of some myndes. The elements do seem to strive which shall conquer and rise above the other. In good soothe, our late Queene did enfolde them all together. I blesse her memorye, for all hir goodnesse to me and my familie; and now wyll I shewe you what strange temperament she did sometyme put forthe. Hir mynde was oftime like the gentle aire that comethe from the westerly pointe in a summer's morn : 'twas sweete and refreshinge to all arounde hir. " Her speech did winne all affections, and hir subjectes did trye to shewe all love to hir commandes; for she woude saye, * hir state did require her to commande, what she knew hir people woude willingely do from their owne love to hir.* Herein did she shewe hir wysdome fullie : for who did chuse to lose her confidence; or who woude wythholde a shewe of love and obedience, when their Sovereign said it was their own choice, and not hir com- pulsion? Surely she did plaie well her tables to gain obedience thus wythout constraint: again, she coude put forthe such alteracions, when obedience was lackinge, as lefte no doubtynges whose daughter she was. I saie thys was plain on the Lorde Deputy's cominge home, when I did come into her presence : she chaffed muche, walkede fastly to and fro, looked with discomposure in her visage; and, I remember, she catched my girdle when I kneelede to hir, and swore, * By God's Son I am no Queen ; that ma7i is above me. Who gave him commande to come here so soon? I did sende hym on other busynesse.' It was longe before more gracious discourse did fall to my hear- ynge ; but I was then put oute of my trouble, and bid * Go LONDINIAN-4. 13 home.' I did not stay to be bidden twise; if all the lyrshe rebels had been at my heels, I shoude not have had better speede, for I did now flee from one whom I both lovede and fearede too. " Hir Highnesse was wont to soothe hir rufflede temper wyth readinge every mornynge, when she had been stirred to passion at the council, or other matters had overthrown hir gracious disposition. She did much admire Seneca's wholesome advisings, when the soul's quiet was flown awaie; and I saw much of hir translating thereof. — By art and nature together so blended, it was difiiculte to fynde hir right humour at any tyme. Hir wisest men and beste counsellors were oft sore troublede to knowe her wyll in matters of state : so covertly did she pass hir judge- mente, as seemed to leave all to their discreet manage- ment; and, when the busynesse did turn to better advan- tage, she did moste cunningly commit the good issue to hir own honour and understandinge; but, when ought fell oute contrarie to hir wyll and intente, the council were in great straite to defende their owne actinge, and not blemyshe the Queen's goode judgemente. Herein hir wyse men did oft lacke more wysdome; and the Lorde Treasurer, [Burleigh,] woude ofte shed a plenty of tears on any miscarriage, well knowynge the difiiculte parte was, not so muche to mende the matter itself, as his mistresse's humour: and yet he did most share hir favour and good wyll ; and to his opinion she woude oft- tyme submit hir owne pleasure in great matters. She did keepe him till late at nyghte, in discoursinge alone, and then call oute another at his departure, and try the deptheof all arounde hir sometyme. Walsingham had his turn, and each dis- plaied their witte in pryvate. " On the morrowe, everye one did come forthe in hir presence and discourse at large; and, if any had dissembled 14 LONDINIANA. withe hir, or stood not well to his advysinges before, she did not let it go unheeded, andsometymes, not unpunished. Sir Christopher Hatton was wont to saye, * The Queen did fishe for men's souls, and had so sweete a baite, that 110 one coude escape hir net-work.' In truthe, I am sure hir speeche was such, as none coude refuse to take de* lyghte in, when frowardness did not stand in the way. I have seen hir smile, soothe with great semblance of good likinge to all arounde, and cause everie one to open his moste inwarde thought to hir; when, on a sudden, she woud ponder in pryvate on what had passed, write down all their opinions, draw them out as occasion required, and sometyme disprove to their faces what had been delivered a month before. Hence she knew every one's parte, and by thus Jishinge, as Hatton sayed, she caught many poor fish, who little knew what snare was laid for them. " I will now tell you more of hir Majesty's discretion and wonder-working to those about her, touchynge their myndes and opinions. She did oft aske the ladies around hir chamber, if they lovede to thinke of marriage ? And the wise ones di,) 1 with amiable countenance and great courtesie received ihera, and afterward in that Place most roiallie fe-isted and banketted them."t On the following Whit-Monday and Tuesday, a most gorgeous Pageant and Tournament, or Triumph, as it was denominated, was exhibited in tiie tilt-yard, for the entertainment of the foreign visitors. The gal- lery at the end of the tilt-yard, where the Queen was seated, " was called," says Holinshed, " and not without cause, the Castelle or Fortresse of perfect Beautie, for as much as her Highnesse shouH be there. * ilolinshed'i " Chronicles," vo). iv, p. 434. f IbiJ. LONDINIANA. r33* included." This was assaulted by the four Foster- Children of Desire, after being summoned by a " de- lectahle song," of which the first verses were as fol- low : — Yield, yield, yield, you that this Fort do hold, Which seated is in spotless Honour's field ; Desire's great force, no forces can withhold. Then to Desire's desire, O yield ! O yield ! Yield, yield, O yield — trust not to Beauty's pride ; Fairness, though fair, is but a feeble shield. When strong Desire, which Virtue's love doth guide. Claims but to gain his due — yield, yield, O yield ! Wooden guns (cannon), charged with sweet powder and sweet waters, " verie odoriferous and pleasant," were then " shot off" against the Fortress of Beauty, from a " rowling trench, or mound of earth," that was wheeled up to the walls, and an attack was made with " pretie scaling ladders," and "flowers, and such fancies and devices," were thrown in, *' as might seem fit shot for Desire." Whilst the challengers, viz. *' the Earle of Arundel, the Lord Windsore, Maister Philip Sidneie, and Mais- ter Fulke Greuill," were thus engaged, each at the head of his band of partizans, in very sumptuous ap- parel, the Defenders of Beauty entered the tilt-yard, and a regular "^ tourneie" and "justing" took place, in the course of which the renowned Sir Hamj Lee, K. G., the Queen's devoted knight, brake '^ his D* S4* LONDINIANA. six staves," and many others justed " right vaUantly'* until the approach of night separated the combatants. On the following day, the four Foster-children of Desire entered " in a brown chariot (verie finelie and curiouslie decked), as men sore wearied and halfe overcome," whilst " verie doleful musicke" was played by a concealed band, within the chariot, in which also Desire herself, represented by "a beautiful ladie," sat *' upon the top," in company with the knights. On approaching the Queen, an " herald at arms,'' expressed the challengers' ** despair of victory," yet, as " their soules should leave their bodies rather than Desire should leave their soules," they besought her Highness '* to vouchsafe the eies of her peerless beauty, upon their " death or overthrow."* " Then went they to the tournie, where they did verie noblie, as the shiuering of the swords might verie well testifie ; and after that to the barriers, where they lashed it out lustilie, and fought couragiouslle, as if the Greeks and Troians had dealt their deadlie dole. No partie was spared, no estate excepted, but ech knight induced to win the golden fleece that expected either fame or the fauor of his mistresse, which sporte continued all the same dale. And towards the euening the sport being ended, there was a boie sent vp to to the Queene, clothed in ash coloured garments, in token of humble .submission, who having an olive branch in his hand, and falling downe prostrate on his face, and then kneeling vp, concluded this noble exer- cise," by requesting her Highness to admit the challengers * Holinshcd's " Chronicles," vol. iv, pp. 435-445. LONDINIAXA. 35* as her perpetual bondmen, notwithstanding their degene- racy and unworthyness in making " violence accompanie desire." This '^ amorous foolerij,^^ as Pennant has justly styled it, was ended by the maiden Queen giving to all her Knights " praise and great thanks." " And thus ceased," says Holinshed, " these courtly triumphs, set forth with the most costlie braverie and gallantness." At that time her Majesty was nearly forty-eight years of age, yet, in the set speeches of the Pageant, the flattering blandishments addressed to her were as highly flavoured as could have been offered to a virgin beauty of eighteen. Hentzner,* the German traveller, who came to Eng- land in the year 1598, styles Whitehall, a palace ** truly royal ;" but his personal description of its so- vereign mistress is by no means prepossessing. • Hentzoer's "Journey into Ecgland," p. 29: Walpole's edition. Hentzner enumerates the " folJowing things," as *' worthy of observation" at Whitehall : I. The Royal Library, well stored with Greek, Latin, Italian and French books : among the rest, a little one in French, upon parclinienf, in the hand-writing of the present reignina; Queen, Elizabeth, thus inscribed : — To the most high, puissant, and redoubted Prince, Henry VIII. , of the Name, King of Eiig- land, France and Ireland, Defender of the Faith : Elizabeth, his most humble Daughter, Health and Obedience. All these books are bound in velvet of dillerent colours, though chiefly red, with clasps of gold and silver ; some have pearls and precious stones set in their bindings. II. Two little silver cabinets, of exquisite work, in which 36* LONDINIANA. Some curious anecdotes of the Court, in the latter years of Elizabeth, may be found in the letters of Rowland Whyte, published with the Sydney State Papers. the Queen keeps her paper, and which she uses for writing boxes. III. The Queen's bed, ingeniously composed of woods of different colours, with quilts of silk, velvet, gold, silver, and embroiderj'. IV. A little chest, ornamented all over with pearls, in which the Queen keeps her bracelets, ear-rings, and other things of extraordinary value. V. Christ's Passion, in painted glass. VI. Portraits ; among which are, Queen Elizabeth, at six- teen years old ; Henry, Richard, Edward, Kings of England ; Rosamond ; Lucrece, a Grecian bride, in her nuptial habit ; the Genealogy of the Kings of England ; a picture of King Ed- ward VI., representing, at first sight, something quite deformed, till by looking through a small hole in the cover, which is put over it, you see it in its true proportion ; Charles V., Emperor ; Charles Emanuel, Duke of Savoy, and Catherine, of Spain, his wife; Ferdinand, Duke of Florence, with his Daughters; one of Philip, King of Spain, when he came into England and married Mary ; Henry VII., Henry VIII,, and his Mother. Besides many more of illustrious men and women ; and a pic- ture of the Siege of Malta. VII. A small Hermitage, half hid in a rock, finely carved in wood. VIII. Variety of Emblems, on paper, cut in the shape of shields, with mottos, used by the nobility at tilts and tourna- ments, hang up here for a memorial. IX. Different instruments of Music, upon one of which two persons may perform at the same time. X. A piece of Clock-work, an ^Ethiop riding upon a Rhi- noceros, With four atteudauts, who all make their obeisance, LONDINIAKM. 37* Under the date May the 12th, 1600, the writer says, " Her Majestie is very well ; this day she appointes to see a Frenchman doe feates in the Conduit Court. To-morrow she hath commanded the beares, the bull, and the ape to be baited in the Tilt-yard : vpon Wed- nesday she will have solemn dawncing.* Yet, even then, although in her 67th year, and pursuing those diversions with apparent zest, her heart was ill at ease. Essex, her favourite, was in disgrace, and under restraint, and her Majesty, when at a masque at the Lord Cobliam's house, in the Blackfriars, '* to grace the marriage of Lord Herbert," on being wooed "to dance" by j^ffection, ejaculated " Affection is false !" yet **she rose and danced.''^ Almost immediately after the decease of Queen Elizabeth, at Richmond (24th of March 1602-3), the Lords of the Council met in the orchard at Whitehall, to despatch a messenger with the tidings to her succes- sor, but her kinsman, Robert Carey, afterwards Earl of Monmouth, quitting the Palace by stealth, was the first to apprise the Scottish monarch of his long-coveted accession to the English throne.:]: when it strikes ihe hour ; these are all put into motion by wind- ing up the machine. In a garden joining to this palace, there is a jet d'eaii, with a sun-dial, at which while strangers are looking, a quantity of wafer, forced by a wheel, which the gardener turns at a dis- tance, through a number of little pipes, plentifully sprinkles those that are standing around. * Sydney's Papers, vol. ii, p. 194. t Ibid. p. 203. t Vide " Memoirs of his own Life.'' Ji8* LONDINIANA. In the reigns of James the First, and Charles, his successor, pageantry and show were domiciled^ if the expression be allowable, at Whitehall ; and on many- occasions the palace was rendered a complete theatre for scenic display. Walpole, speaking of King Charles, (but his language, in several respects, is applicable to both sovereigns), says, — "The Pleasures of his court were carried on with much taste and magnificence. Poetry, painting, music, and architecture, were all called in to make them rational amusements. Ben Jonson was the laureat ; Inigo Jones, the inventor of the decorations ; Laniere and Ferabosco composed the symphonies; and the King, the Queen, and the young nobility, danced in the interludes."* The accession of King James to the English throne was first proclaimed at Whitehall, and one of his first acts of sovereignty after reaching the Palace was to confer the order of knighthood upon 300 persons, in the Garden there. *' Before the year went about,*' Baker says, he bestowed the same honour upon " God knows how many hundreds."f » Walpole's "Works," vol. iii, p. 271, 4to. From the above application of Walpole's language to King James's court, we must except the taste and dancing of that monarch. James had no taste, and was too weak and ungain in his limbs for dancing. t Baker's " Chronicle," p. 40^, edit. 1T30. We learn from Winwood's " Memorials," that Knighthood was in this reign held so cheap, that the '' Lady Elizabeth's followers" were permitted to put " themselves in equipage" on the eve of her nuptials with the Count Palatine, by keeping " as it were, an open market to all commers for £150 a-man," Vol. iii. p. 431. LONDINIANA. 39* Masks and Mummings, as Sir Dudley Carletoii styles them, were quickly introduced at court, after the arrival from Scotland of Anne of Denmark, the royal consort. One of the earliest displays was on the mar- riage of Sir Philip Herbert, the King's favourite, with Lady Susan Vere, on St. John's Day (27th of Decem- ber) 1604-5. That ceremony was performed in the Chapel at Whitehall ; the nuptial dinner was served in the Great Chamber ; the masque was played in the Hall ; and the new married couple were lodged in the Council Chamber.* On the following Twelfth-Day y Of the popular tradition of King James bestowing the knightly honour on a Loin of Beef, and hence Sir- Loin, see Nichols's " Progresses," &c. of that monarch, vol. iii. p. 401, note. * Sir Dudley Carleton gives us a curious picture of the courtly revelries on that occasion :— ** The Court was great, and for that day put on the best bravery. Prince Henry and the Duke of Hoist, the Queen's brother, led the bride to church, and the Queen followed her from thence. The King gave her, and she in her tresses and trinkets, brided and bridled it so hand- somely, that the King said '* if he were unmarried he would not give her, but keep her for himself." There was no small loss that night of chaines and Jewells, and many great ladies were made shorter by the skirts, and were well enough served that they could keep cut no better. The King [who for the bride's jointure had given £500 per annum, in land], in his shirt and night gown, gave them a reveille matin before they were up, and spent a good time in or upon the bed, — choose which you will believe. No ceremony was omitted of bride-cakes, point*, garters, and gloves, which have been ever since the livery of the court ; and at night there was sewing into the sheet, casting off the bride's left hose, with many other pretty sorceries."— Win- wood's '' Memorials," vol. ii. p. 43. 40* LONDIKIANA. the young prince, Charles, was created Duke of York, with great pomp, at Whitehall; and at night, the Queen's masque of " Blacknesse'' (for the charge of which £3,000 had been previously delivered) was *' personated" in the Banquettins; House. The Queen, with eleven of the raost beautiful ladies of her Court, were the chief masquers and dancers, in character of the Daughters of JVz^er, " because," Jonson says, "it was her Maiesties will to have them Black-Mores at first.*" In Sir Dudley Carleton's somewhat ironical description of this performance, he acquaints us, that '' their apparell was rich, but too light and curtezan- like for such great ones.^f After the splendid ceremony of creating Prince Henry Prince of Wales, at Westminster, on the 1 2th of June 1610, the banquet was given at Whitehall : the next day " was graced with a most glorious Maske'* there, which was continued " till within half an hour of the • Vide Ben Jonson's " Works," p. 893, fol. d616. From the Poet's account of this masque of Blachnesse, as well as of that of Beavtie, which was represented by the Queen and her ladies in tbe Banquet ting-house on Twelfth Night, 1608-9, it is evident that both perspective and moveable scenery was then used; there was great ingenuity displayed also in the construciion of the machinery. Another masque, of similar *' invention," called " TTie Queenes,'''' was also performed by the same parties at Whitehall, on the 23d of February 1609. t Winwood's •* Memorials," vol. ii, p. 44. As it is impossi- ble to enlarge on these pageantries, we must refer for further accounts to the same work, vol. iii, pp. 179-181, and 434 ; and also to various parts of Nichols's '' Progresess," &c. of King James, tONDlKTANA. 41* Sun's, not setting, but rising ;" and on the third day, was a grand " tilting-match, a gallant sea-fight, and many rare and excellent fireworks, which were seen by almost half a million of people." The marriage of the Princess Elizabeth with the Elector Palatine, on St. Valentine's-Day, 1612-13, was solemnized at Whitehall, with a degree of sumptuous- ness verging upon Eastern splendour. On that occa- sion, the ceremony was performed upon a raised stage in the middle of the chapel, and no persons were ad- mitted under the degree of a baron, " saving the three Lords Chief Justices." " It were no end," says a spec- tator of these vanities, " to write of the curiositie and excess of bravery both of men and women, with the extreme daubings of cost and riches."* Different masques were represented by the Lords, and by the members of the Temple, Lincoln^s Inn, and Gray's Inn ; that of the Lords is described to have been '* very rich and sumptuous, yet long and tedious, and with many devices, more like a play than a maske." A new (temporary) marriage room, was erected for the entertainment of the guests ; and fireworks were displayed both in the gardens and on the river Thames, the cost of which amounted to more than £9,000. It was the intention of King James to have built a magnificent Palace at Whitehall, and Inigo Jones made * Winwood's " Memorials," ut supra. The jewels worn by James and his Queen were said to be worth a million ster- ling. Vide Miss Benger's " Memoirs of Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia," vol. i, p. 33T. 42* LONDINIANA. a splendid series of designs for that purpose ; but the extravagance of the Court rendered the scheme abor- tive, and no part of the intended structure was erected except the Banquetting House, which is almost the only part of Whitehall palace that now remains.* Three sets of engravings have been published, but with considerable variations from each other, of the Palace designed by Inigo Jones. The earliest of these consists of views of the fronts in Campbell's " Vi- truyius Britannicus," printed in 1717; the next, of * We learn from Howes' Edition of S tow's " Annales," (p. 891), that "the old, rotten, sleight-builded Banquetting- house," which had been erected by Queen Elizabeth, was pulled down by King James in 1606, and " new builded" in the fol- lowing year, " verj' strong and stately, being every way larger than the first : there were also many fayre lodgings new builded and increased." In the same work (p. 1031), the following particulars are given of the destruction of the new building by fire. ^' xibout ten a clocke in the morning, vpon Tuesday the 12 of January [1619], the faire Banquetting-house at Whitehall, was vpon the sodaine all flaming a fire, from end to end^ and side to side, before it was discerned or descryde, by any persoos or passengers, either by scent or smoke ; at sight whereof, the Court being sore amazed, sent speedy ne^es to the great Lords of the Councell, who were then but newly set in the Guildhall in London, about excessive and disorderly buildings, but they all arose and returned to Whitehall, and gave directions to the mul- titude of people to suppresse the flame, and by hooke to pull downe some other adjoining buildings, to preuent the furious fire, and so by their care, and the peoples labour, the flame was quite extinct by twelve a clocke : besides the Banquetting-house, there were diners lodgings burned, and the writings in the oflice of the Privy signet, which was vnder the Banquetting-house." LONUINIANA. 43* elevations, plans, sections, &c., amounting to fifty- seven plates, in Kent's first volume of Jones's " De- signs," published in 1727 ; and the last, of large prints of the four fronts, &c. published by Lord Bur- lington, in 1748 and 1749. Those in the "Vitru- vius Britannicus," Dallaway says, "are not genuine;" and Walpole, when speaking of the Banquetting- house, which he characterizes as " so complete in itself, that it stands a model of the most pure and beautiful taste," throws a degree of doubt on the views published by Lord Burlington. His words are : — " The four great sheets are evidently made up from general hints; nor could such a source of invention and taste, as the mind of Inigo, ever produce so much same- ness. The strange kind of cherubims on the towers at the end, are preposterous ornaments, and whether of Inigo or not, bear no relation to the rest. The great towers in the front are too near, and evidently borrowed from what he had seen in Gothic, not Roman buildings. The circular court [within the quadrangle] is a picturesque thought, but without meaning or utility. The whole fabric, how- ever, was such a glorious idea, that one forgets for a mo- ment, in the regret for its not being executed, the confir- mation of our liberties, obtained by a melancholy scene that passed before the windows of that very Banquetting- house."* From a letter of Pope, addressed to Jervas, the pain- ter, in November 1716, it appears that '* the original designs of Inigo Jones's Whitehall," were then in the Walpole's " VYorks" vol. iii. p. 270, 4to edit. 44* LONDINIANA. possession of Dr. Clarke, of All Soul's College, in Oxford ; and the poet's editor, Warlon, states, that the Doctor bequeathed them to the library of Wor- cester College,* wherein, most probably, they yet remain. The Banquetting-house still forms one of the best features of our metropolitan architecture; although, from the decay of the stone in its sculptured foliage, and general dressings, it has a worn and ragged ap- pearance. It was commenced soon after the fire in 1619, and was finished within three years.f Nicholas Stone, who was the master-mason, was employed on it two years (as appears from his own notes, published by Walpole), during which time he was '* payed four shillings and tenpence the day." At a somewhat later period, Inigo Jones, as surveyor-general of the works, was allowed only 8s. 4d. per day, with £46 per annum, for house rent, exclusive of a clerk and incidental expenses. It will be seen from the annexed Views of the River and Street Fronts of the intended Palace (which have been reduced from the large prints published by Lord Burlington), that had the building been completed according to Inigo Jones's designs, it would have com- prised four Pavilions of similar character to the pre- sent Banquetting-house, exclusive of its square towers at the angles, its magnificent central compart- ments, and its internal courts ; and we cannot but * Warton's " Works of Alexander Pope, Esq." vol. iii. p. 322. f Howes' Stow's " Annales," p, 1031. LONDIKIANA. 45* lament, with Walpole, that an edifice conceived in a style of so mucfi grandeur, and so truly worthy of becoming the abode of a British Sovereign, should, from any cause, have been suffered to remain incom- plete.* King James had little predilection for refined plea- sures, but his sons, both Henry and Charles, possessed greater taste, and gave due encouragement to the fine arts. Prince Henry laid the foundation, at Whitehall, of that noble collection which his brother completed, but which the unhappy occurrence of the Civil Wars was the means of dispersing throughout Europe.f Walpole has given a curious list of the masques and triumphs (in which Inigo Jones was concerned) which were 'presented' at Whitehall, in the time of Charles the First, whose consort took as active a part in those * Colin Campbell, who, in his " Vitruvius Britannicus," has eulogised the design of the entire Palace, in very hyperbolical terms, speaks thus fancifully of the Banquetting- house. — " Here our excellent Architect has introduced Strength with Politeness, Ornament with Simplicity, Beauty with Majesty ; it is without Dispute, the first Room in the World." f This collection was principally contained in a building called the Cabinet, or Cabinet Room, which had been designed for Prince Henry by Inigo Jones, and, according to Walpole, "was erected about the middle of Whitehall, running across from the Thames towards the Banquetting-house, and fronting westward to the Privy Garden." Pennant says, that the Cabi- net Room stood on the site of the Duke of York's house, now Lord Melbourne's ; but as Walpole refers to Vanderdori's Cata- logue of King Charles's Collection, his authority is the most prelerable. 46* LONDIXIANA. diversions, as Anne of Denmark had done in the pre- cedino; reio-n.* King Charles, in the early part of his reign, engaged Rubens to paint the ceiling of the Banquetting-house, for which work that inimitable artist w^as paid £3000 ; and he was also knighted at Whitehall, on the 21st of February 1630. The subject is the Apotheosis of James I., which is represented in nine compartments, and is chiefly indicative of that monarch's love of peace.f By a remarkable fatality, the scaffold for the decapitation of King Charles veas erected in the in- closed court (now the pubhc street) , in front of this edifice, through which he was led immediately to his execution. Pennant, in speaking of the Banquetting- house, thus aptly remarks, — " Little did James think * Among tbe Strafford Papers (vol. ii. p. 130), there is a letter dated November 9tb, 163T, in which the writer, speaking of two masques which were to be exhibited that winter, says, " A great room is now building only for this use, betwixt the Guard-chamber and Banquetting-house, of fir, only weather- boarded, and slightly covered. At the marriage of the Queen of Bohemia, I saw one set up there, but not of that vastness that this will be, which will cost too much money to be pulled down, and yet down it must when the masks are over." — Of this build- ing there is a further notice in the " Journals" of the House of Commons, July 16th, 1645, viz. "Ordered, that the boarded Masque-house at Whitehall, the Masque-house at St. James's, and the Courts of guard be forthwith pulled down and sold away." t This painting was repaired by Kent in the reign of George II., and again about fifty years ago, by Cipriani, who *• had £2090 for his trouble,'^ as Pennant was infornied. LOXDINIANA. 47* that he was raising a pile from which his son was to step from the throne to the scaffold." Several years prior to that event, Whitehall had been seized by the Parliament, and on the 23d of July 1645, the ascendant fanatics passed a series of votes, ordering (among other things), that "all such pictures and statues" as were at York House, " as are without 2iny superstition, shziW be forthwith sold, for the benefit of Ireland and the North." It was likewise ordered, that " all such pictures there as have the representa- tion of the second person in Trinity, or of the Virgin Mary, shall be forthwith burnt.''* During the Protectorate, Oliver Cromwell princi- pally resided at Whitehall ; but after the Restoration it was immediately occupied by Charles the Second. f Whatever might have been its former character, this Palace in his reign became the scene of the most open and licentious profligacy, mingled with a political baseness and tergiversation, altogether destructive of the best interests of the nation. This prostration of all moral principle, conjoined to the religious bigotry of • Many curious particulars of the sale and dispersion of King Charles's collection of pictures, statues, tapestries, jewels, cS'C, will be found in Walpole's " Anecdotes of Painting," under that reign. Evelyn, under the date of February lltb, 1656, says, " I ventured to go to Whitehall, where of many yeares I had not been, and found it very glorious and well furnished, as far as I could safely go, and was glad to find they had not much defaced y* rare piece of Henry VII., &c. done on the walles of tfae Kinges Privy Chamber." 48* LOi^DINIANA. James the Second, deservedly led to the expulsion of the Stuarts in the year 1688.* Whilst Cromwell was in possession of Whitehall, he exerted himself to preserve such parts of the Royal collection as had not been sold or stolen. He also purchased a number of the late King's pictures (in- cluding the Cartoons of Raphael) , and thus contributed to preserve a nucleus for the re-collecting in the next reign, of many of the rich specimens of the fine arts, which had been dispersed in the Civil War. Shortly before the arrival of Catherine of Braganza, Charles the Second's betrothed consort, that monarch received the Lords and Commons at Whitehall, and, from the speech which he then delivered, we may form some idea of the state of the public streets at that pe- riod : — " The mention of my wife's arrival puts me in mind to desire you to put that compliment upon her, that her entrance into the town may be with more decency than the ways will now suffer it to be ; and to that purpose, I pray you would quickly pass such laws as are before you, in order to the mending those waysy and that she may not find Whitehall surrounded with water. '^ * The Memoirs of the Count de Grammont, and the respec- tive Diaries of Evelyn and Pepys, afford a curious insight of the private history and profligate manners of the Court of Whitehall, froni^ the revival of the Monarchy to the eve of the Revolution. Some ingenious scenes, partly grounded upon those authorities, have also, been introduced by Sir Walter Scott, in his " Peveril of the Pea /' and by Horace Smith, in his Bram.- bletye House." lonuiniana. 49* In the " Travels" of Mons. Jorevin de Rochford, printed at Paris, in the year 1672, is the following passage relating to this Palace about that period : — " Whitehall consists of a great court, surrounded by buildings, without either symmetry or beauty worth men- tioning, having a chapel which occupies an entire face of that court, and looks towards the gate through which one enters, where, on the right hand, there is a great pavilion with many windows, which seems newly built, and fronts towards the place before the palace ; but on the side looking to the river there is a garden, in which is a par- terre, many statues of marble and bronze, well executed, and a terrace by the side of the river * These would be the most striking parts of this palace, were it not that on the other side there is this advantage, that one may from * 111 the Privy Garden, at WhitehalJ, was a curious Dial, or rather set of Dials, coustructed for King Charles, when Prince of Wales, by Edmund Gunter, Professor of Astronomy at Gresham College, of which, by command of King James, he pubUshed a "Description" in 1624, m quarto. The masonry v;as wrought by Nicholas Stone, who was paid £46 for his labour. " 'Jhese Dials were placed,'^ Gunter says, " on a stone, which at tbe base was a square of somewhat more than four feet and a half, the height three feet and three quarters, and, uuwrought, contained above eighty feet, or five tonne of stone. Five Dials were described on the upper part, viz. one on each of the four corners, and a fifth in the middle, which was the chief of all, the great horizontal concave. Besides the dials at the top, there were others on each of the sides, east, west, north and south." Gough states, that this Dial was defaced by the drunken frolics of a nobleman in Charles the Second's reign, but remained till that of George the Second. In Andrew Marvel's verses on the Statue at Charing Cross, it is thus alluded to :— 52* LONDINIANA. mouth, Nelly [Gvvynne], &c. concubines, and cattell of that sort, as splendid as Jewells and excesse of bra- very could make them.*" On the 28th of July 1683, Prince George of Den- mark, was married to the Lady Anne (afterwards Queen Anne) , the Duke of York's daughter, at White- hall. In March 1684, there was so great a concourse of people, with their children, " to be touched for the evil," at this Palace, " that 6 or 7 were crushed to death by pressing at the Chirurgeon's doore for tickets."t * " Memoirs," p. 539. Evelyn has been particularly lavish in his description of the apartments of the Duchess of Portsmouth. In one place, he states them to be " curiously furnished, and with ten times the richnesse and glory beyond the Queenes j" and in another, he enters into the following curious details : — " Following his Ma^y this morning thro' the gallerie, I went, with the few who attended him, into the Dutchess of Ports- mouth's dressing-roome, within her bed-chamber, where she was in her morning loose garment, her maids combing her, newly out of her bed, his Ma}y and the gallants standing about her; but that which engaged my curiosity was the rich and splendid furniture of this woman's apartment, now twice or thrice pulled down and rebuilt to satisfie her prodigal and ex- pensive pleasures, whilst her Ma^>^ dos not exceede some gentle- men's ladies in furniture and accommodation. Here I saw the newfabriq of French tapissry, for designe, tendernesse of worke, and incomparable imitation of the best paintings, beyond any thing I had ever beheld. Some pieces had Versailles, St. Ger- man's, and other palaces of the French King, with huntings, figures and landskips, exotiq fowls, and all to the life rarely don. Then for Japan cabinets, screenes, pendule clocks, greate vases of wrought plate, table stands, chimney furniture, sconces, branches, braseras, (fee, all of raassie silver, and out of number, besides some of her Ma'>" best paintings."— Ibid. p. 563. t Ibid. p. 571. LONDINIANA. 53* Charles the Second was seized with an apoplectic fit in his bed-chamber at Whitehall, on Monday, the 1st of February 1685, and he died on the Saturday fol- lowing, after receiving extreme unction and the Sacra- ment, according to the rites of the Romish Church, from the hands of Father Hudlestone, a Catholic priest, who had assisted in his escape from Worcester.* His illness had been quite unexpected, as may be inferred from the following passage in Evelyn : — " I can never forget the inexpressible luxury and pro- faneness, gaming and all dissoluteness, and, as it were, total forgetful nesse of God (it being Sunday evening), which this day sennight I was witnesse of, the King sitting and toying with his concubines, Portsmouth, Cleaveland, and Mazarine, &c., a French boy singing love songs, in that glorious gallery, whilst about 20 of the great courtiers and other dissolute persons were at Basset, round a large table, a bank of at least ^2,000 in gold before them ; upon which two gentlemen who were with me made reflections with astonishment. Six days after was all in the dust !" Immediately after Charles's decease, a council was held here, and his brother James was proclaimed king at Whitehall Gate, in the " very forme his grandfather K. James I. was, after y^ death of Queene Elizabeth.'* * Charles had been a concealed Romanist during his whole reign, and the measures of his Government cannot be properly understood without adverting to that fact. Many singular cir- cumstances attending his illness and decease, Mill be found recorded in Evelyn's " Memoirs," vol. i, pp. 580-583 ; and Ellis's " Original Letters," 1st series, vol. iii, pp. 333-338 ; and 2d series, vol. iv, pp. 74-80. 54* LOKDINTANA. x\bout a week afterwards, the new King went " to masse publickly ia y^ little Oratorie at the Duke's lodgings, the doorcs being set wide open." On the 5th of March, Evelyn writes, *' To my great griefe I saw the new pulpit set up in the Popish Oratorie, at Whitehall, for the Lent preachins;, masse being publicly said, and the Romanists swarming at Court with greater confidence than had ever been seene in England since the Reformation.*' In the summer of the same year, the King com- menced a new range of buildings on the garden side, at Whitehall, including a Chapel and lodgings for the Queen (Mary d'Este), a council chamber, and other offices; all of which were completed in the following year. Evelyn states, that the embroidery of the Queen's bed cost £3,000, and that the carving about the chimney-piece, by Gibbons, was *' incomparable." He also describes the new chapel as very sumptuously fitted up, and enriched with four statues, in white marble, by the same artist, of St. John, St. Peter, St. Paul, and the Church. The altar-piece was the Salu- tation, which, with other paintings, was by Verrio. In a closet opposite to the altar, was a throne, '* very glo- rious" for the King and Queen. The intemperate and unceasing endeavours of the Court to restore Popery, and again subjugate the nation to the superstitions of Catholicism, produced the glorious Revolution of 1688 ; — and on the 17th of December in that year, the bigot King James quitted Whitehall and his Throne for ever ! " On the fol- lowing day," Evelyn says, " the Prince of Orange LONDINIANA. 55* comes to St. James's, and fills Whitehall with Dutch guards." On the 13th of February 1689, Mary, Princess of Orange, arrived at this Palace, and, on the succeeding day, her husband and herself were proclaimed King and Queen of England, to which dignity they had been raised by the Convention Parliament. But the glories of Whitehall were now verging to a close. The destructive element of fire was destined to be its ruin. Of the first accident of this kind, Evelyn speaks thus, under the date April 10th, 1691 :— "This night a sudden terrible fire burnt down all the build- ings over the stone gallery at Whitehall, to the water side, beginning at the apartment of the late Dutchesse of Portsmouth (vv^^ had been pulled down and rebuilt no lessc than 3 times to please her) , and consuming other lodgings of such lewd creatures, who debauch'd both K. Cha. 2, and others, and were his destruction.'' The second and final catastrophe occurred on the 4th of January 1697-8, when the entire Palace, except the Banquetting-house, some inferior offices, and two or three noblemen's lodgings, fell a prey to the flames. Evelyn, in one expressive line, thus generalizes the destruction : — " Whitehall burnt ; nothing but walls and ruins left." Besides their Majesties' apartments, about 150 houses, " most of which were the lodgings and habitations of the chief nobility," were destroyed, and about twenty others are stated to have been blown up with gunpow- der to prevent further damage. Sir Christopher Wren, whose apartments as surveyor-general were within the Palace, and the Lord Cutts,who commanded the troops. 56* LONDINIANA. gave great assistance on this occasion ; yet in the con- fusion, besides what the fire destroyed, several of the royal pictures, and many other valuables, were either lost or stolen. In the reign of George the First, the Banquetting- hoase was converted into a chapel, and that monarch first granted a stipend of £30 yearly to twelve clergy- men, six from each University, who officiate a month each, in due succession. It is now appropriated to the use of the Guards, and several of the Eagles and tro- phies taken from the French at Waterloo, during the war with Buonaparte, have been placed near the ahar. Here, also, on every IMaunday Thursday, the King's eleemosynary bonnty is distributed to poor and aged men and women. In the annexed print, taken from the Parade within St. James's Park, are shewn the buildings of White- hall, as they appeared about the year 1720, as well as the Horse Guards and Admiralty. Of the Gate-houses there delineated, the one with the dome-capped turrets stood at the north end of King-street, and was pulled down in 1723, in order to improve the road to the Parliament House. The other, called the Cockpit Gate, supposed to have been designed by Holbein, and which had been long used as the State Paper Office, was re- moved in 1750, to widen the street. It was built of stone, mingled with squared ffints, and ornamented with busts in terra cotta, three of which, considered to be those of the Henries VII. and VIIL, and Bishop Fisher, are now at a mansion called Hatfield Priory, near Witham, in Essex. LONDINIANA. 33 " Your speaker,'^ said Yelverton, "ought to be a man big and comely, stately and well-spoken ; his voice great, his carriage majestical; his nature haughty, and his purse plentiful and heavy. But, contrarily, the stature of my body is small, myself not so well-spoken, my voice low, my carriage lawyer-like, and of the common fashion; my nature soft and bashful, my purse thin, light, and never yet plentiful.'* This apology was, as usual, disregarded ; and Yel- verton filled the speaker's seat without detracting from its dignity. About four years previously to the above occurrence, (anno 1593,) as we are informed by the same journalist, the Lord Keeper Puckering, in his reply to the speak- er's three customary demands, explained "liberty of speech," to be nothing more than the " liberty of say- ing Aye and No ! " EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE FROM DEATH. The following remarkable event is related in Hoare's Journal of his Shrievalty, under the date of Monday, November the 24th, 1740. "This day, (in pursuance of a warrant from his Majesty,) was appointed for the execution of the following malefac- tors in Newgate, condemned the last sessions :— William Duell, William Meers, Thomas Clack, alias Clarke, Eleanor Mumpman, and Margery Stanton, alias Raggety Madge. But two other men, viz. Abraham Hancock and George White, condemned the sessions before, received a reprieve for eight days longer. At this execution a most extraordinary event happened ; for William Duell, aged 1 7 years, indicted for a rape, robbery, and murder, and con- VOL. II. D 34 LONDINIAN.A. victed of the rape, after having been hung up by the neck, with the others as above, for the space of twenty-two minutes^ or more, was cut down, and being begged by the Surgeons* Company, was carried in a hackney- coach to their hall, to be anatomized. Bat just as they had taken him out of the coach, and laid him on a table at that place, in order to make the necessary preparations for cutting him up, he was, to the great astonishment of the surgeon and assis- tants, heard to groan ; and upon examination, finding he had some other symptoms of life, some of the sui-geons let him blood, and after having taken several ounces, he began to stir, and in a short space of time was able to rear him- self up, but could not immediately speak, so as to be heard articulately. Upon this, messages were sent to my brother sheriff and me, and the news was soon spread about, inso- much that by about five o'clock in the afternoon, a very great mob had gathered about the hall, which intimidated us and our officers from attempting to carry him back to Tyburn this same day, in order to hang him up again, and complete his execution; as we might have done by virtue of our warrant, which was to execute him any time in the day. Therefore we kept him here till about twelve o'clock in the night, when the mob being dispersed, we signed a warrant for his recommitment to Newgate; whither he was accordingly carried in a hackney-coach, and being put into one of the cells and covered up, and some warm broth given him, he began so fai* to recover as to be able to speak, and ask for more victuals, but did not as yet seem so sensible as to remember what had happened." Two days afterwards the sheriffs waited on the Duke of Newcastle, Secretary of State, to know his jMajesty's pleasure regarding the disposal of the crimi- LONDINIANA. 35 nal who had thus strangely escaped dissection and death ; and who was then in Newgate, *' fully recovered in health and senses." His Grace desired them to draw up a narrative of the circumstances, in writing, which was done accordingly ; and it was added, that the prisoner had been found guilty on no other evidence but his own confession before a Justice of Peace. " The story of the lad's recovery was now become the common topic of conversation, numbers of people going every hour to Newgate to see, and ask him questions ; and though he was at best but a poor senseless, illiterate boy, and remembered nothing, (as I was told by several who saw him) of his being carried to execution, no, nor even of his being brought to trial ; yet there were abun- dance of Grub-street papers cneA about the streets, giving an account of the wonderful discoveries he had made in the other world, of the ghosts and apparitions he sav/, and such like invented stuff) to get a penny. " The conjectures of his not dying under the execution are various ; some suggesting it was because he was not hung up long enough ; others, that the rope was not rightly placed ; others, from the light weight of his body. But the true reason, as I was informed, and which was ac- counted for physically, was, that he had been in a high raging fever since his commitment to Newgate, and was for the most part light headed and delirious, and consequently having no impression of fear upon him, and his blood circulating with violent heat and quickness, might be the reason why it was the longer before it could be stopped by suffocation ; and this likewise accounted for his not knowing any thing that had happened (he being so ill) either at his trial or execution." D 2 36 LONDINIANA. It oes not appear from Mr. Hoare's Journal, whether Duell received a pardon, but the Gentleman's Magazine for December in the above year, informs us that he was ordered to be transported for life. It states, also, that when one of the servants at Surgeons' Hall, was washing the body for dissection, he found the breath to come quicker and shorter, on which a surgeon took some ounces of blood from him, and in two hours he was able to sit up in a chair. — The rape and murder had been committed at Acton, on a woman named Sarah Griffin. That this was by no means the only instance of the resuscitation of the human body after it had been con- veyed to Surgeons' Hall for dissection, is evident from the following curious order, made at a court of assis- tants on the 13th of July, 1587, which has been copied from the minute hooks of the Company. " Item. Yt ys agreed that yf any bodie which shall at anie tyme here after happen to be brought to o'r hall for the intent to be wrought uppon by Thanathomistes of o'r Companie, shall revyve or come to lyfe agayne, as [has] of late hathe ben seene, the charges aboute the same bodie so revivinge, shal be borne, levied, and susteyned, by such person, or persons, who shall so happen to bringe home the bodie. And further shall abide suche order or ffyne, as this Howse shall award." Another instance of extraordinary recovery after suspension has been thus related in the fourth volume of the Oxoniana. " Anne Greene, a person unmarried, was indicted, ar- raigned, cast, condemned, and executed, for kilHng her child;, LONDINJANA. 37 at the assizes at Oxford, December 14, 1650. After some hours her body being taken down, and prepared for dissec- tion in the anatomy school, some heat was found therein, which by the doctors was improved into her perfect reco- very. Charitable people interpret her so miraculous pre- servation, a compurgator of her innocence. Thus she intended for a dead, continues a living anatomy of divine providence, and a monumentof the wonderful contrivances thereof. If Hippolytus, revived only by poetical fancies, was surnamed Virbius, because twice a man, why Mvlierbia^ by as good proportion may be applied to her, who since is married, and liveth in this country in good reputation. "* Among other epigrams on this subject, the following with the translation was written by Dr. Ralph Bathurst. In puellam iVffo>ioT|Wov a patibulo reviviscentum. Quae nuper medicos vespillonesque fefellit, Et non unius victima mortis erat, Quam bene Ketricis titulum meruisse putanda est. Cum poterat Stamen sic renovare suum. Englished thus : Thou more than mortal, that with many lives Hast mock't the sexton, and the doctor's knives ; The name of spinster thou mayest justly wed, Since there's no halter stronger than thy thread. INGENIOUS MECHANISM. Stow, in his " Summarie of the Chronicles of Eng- land," anno 1604, p. 3'i8, under the date 1579, re- cords the following remarkable instance of skilful workmanship by a citizen. * Fuller's Worthies. For a longer account of Anne Greene, see Morgan's Phoenix Britaiinicus. 38 LONDINIANA. " This yeare Markc Scaliot, Blackesmith, citizen of London, for triall of his workmanshippe made one hanging Locke of iron, Steele, and brasse, of eleven severaU peeces, and a pipe key, all cleane wrought, which weighed but one graine of golde. He also at the same time made a chaine of golde of fortie three linkes, to the which chaine the locke and key being fastened, and put about a Flea's necke, she drew the same with ease. All which locke and key, chaine and fley weighed but one graine and a halfe; a thing most incredible, but that I myselfe have seene it."* MARSHALSEA PRISON, SOUTHWARK. Among the inhabitants of this noted prison in Henry the Eighth's reign, was *' a rabblement" of army surgeons, who had accompanied the troops to France, and whose incapacity became so apparent at the Siege of Montreuil, " the soldiers dying so fast of very slight wounds," that the Duke of Norfolk found it expedient to appoint a commission to examine the medical department on the spot. One of the commis- sioners was named John Gale, a sensible rational pro- fessor, who in his " Office of a Chirurgeon," has given the ensuing curious result of the inquiry. " We found," says Gale, "many who took upon them the names of surgeons, and the wages also. We de- manded of them with whom they were brought up. They with shameless faces would answer, one cunning man, or another, which was dead. We then demanded what chirurgery stuff they had to cure men with? And they * The margin say«, " The lock and key weighed but one wheat corne ;'' and the ** chain but halfe a wheat corn." LONDINIANA 39 would shew us a pot, or box, which they had in a budget, wherein there was such trumpery as they did use to grease horses' heels with ; and others that were coblers and tinkers, they used shoemakers' wax, with the rust of old pans, and made therewithal * a noble salve,' as they did term it. In the end, this worthy rabblement was committed to the Marshalsea, and threatened by the Duke's Grace to be hanged for their worthy deeds, ejicept they would declare the truth, what they were, &c. And in the end they did confess as I declared to you before ; that some were sow- gelders, some horse-gelders, with tinkers and coblers." LADY JANE GREY. The following curious account of the early years of this unfortunate queen, whose sovereignty began and ended in the short space of nine days, is extracted from the " ScJioolmaster'"' of the learned Roger Ascham, who on visiting her at her father's seat in Leicester- shire, found her studying the Phardon of Plato. "After salutation," he writes, "and dewty done, and after some other tauke, I asked her, * why she wolde loose such pastime in the parke ?' [where the rest of the fami- ly were pursuing a stag.] Smiling, she answered me, * I wisse all their sport in the parke is but a shadow to the pleasure that I find in Plato. Alas, good folkes ! they never felt what trewe pleasure meant ! * 'And how came you. Madam,' quoth I, ' by this knowledge of pleasure? and what did chieflie allure you to it ; seeinge not many women, and but very fewe men, have attained thereunto?' ' I will tell you,' quoth she, * and tell you a truth which perchaunce ye will marvell at : one of the greatest benefites that God gave me is, that he sent me so sharpe and severe 40 LONDINIANA. parentes, and so jenlle a schoolmaster; for when I am in presence eyther of father or mother; whether I speake, keepe silence, sitt, stand, or go; eate, drinke, be merie or sad ; be sowying, playing, dauncing, or doing anie thing else, I must do it, as it were, in suche measure, weighte, and number, even so perfectlie as God made the world, or else I am so sharplie taunted, so cruellie threatened, yea, pre- sentlie, sometimes, with pinches, nippes, bobbes, (and other waies which I will not name for the honour I bear them) so without measure misordered, that I thinke myself in hell, till time come that I must go to Mr. Elmer, [after- wards Bishop of London, in Elizabeth's reign;] who teacheth me so pleasantlie, so jentlie, and with such faire allurements to learning, that I thinke alle the times nothing whiles I am with him ; and when I am called from him, I fall on weepinge :" — The great proficiency in erudition of this ill-fated Lady was singularly exercised, when almost in her last hours, it prompted her to write with a pin, on the •walls of her prison in the Tower, the folloiving lines : Non aliena puteSy homini quae ohtingere possunt Sors aliena mihiy tunc erit ilia tibi. And, Deojuva7ite, nil nocet livor mollis; Et non juvante, nil juvatlahor gravis. Post tenebras spero lucem. ROYAL SOCIETY. The ensuing particulars of the origin of this society, have been extracted from the memorials of his own life, written by the Rev. Dr. Wallis, in a letter to Dr. Thomas Smith, now preserved in Smith's LONDTNIANA. 41 collection of MSS. in the Bodleian Library at Oxford. Dr. Wallis was born at Asbford in Kent, on the 23d of November, 1616, and dying at Oxford on the 28th October, 1703, when within a few days of eighty- seven years of age, he was buried in St. Mary's church in that city. He is well known as one of the first and most eminent of our decipherers and mathematicians. " About the year 1645, while I lived in London, (at a time, when by our Civil wars, academical studies were much interrupted in both our Universities) beside the conversation of divers eminent divines, as to matters theological, I had the opportunity of being acquainted with divers worthy persons, inquisitive into natural philo- sophy, and other parts of human learning; and particu- larly of what hath been called the New Philosophy, or Experimental Philosophy. " We did, by agreement, divers of us, meet weekly in London, on a certain day, to treat and discourse of such affairs. Of which number were Dr. John Wilkins, (after- wards Bishop of Chester,) Dr. Jonathan Goddard, Dr. George Ent, Dr. Glisson, Dr. Merrit, (Drs. in Physic) Mr. Samuel Foster, then Professor of Astronomy at Gres- ham College, Mr. Theodore Haak, (a German of the Palatinate, and then resident in London, who I think gave the first occasion, and first suggested those meetings) and many others. " These meetings we held sometimes at Dr. Goddard's lodgings in Wood-street, (or some convenient place near) on occasion of his keeping an operator in his house for grinding glasses for telescopes and microscopes ; some- times at a convenient place in Cheapside, and sometimes at Gresham College, or some place near adjoining. 42 LONDINTANA. " Our business was, (precluding matters of theology and state affairs) to discourse and consider of philosophical enquiries, or such as related thereto; as physick, anatomy, geometry, astronomy, navigation, staticks, magnetics, chy- micks, mechanicks and natural experiments ; with the state of those studies, as then cultivated at home and abroad. We there discoursed of the circulation of the blood, the valves in the veins, the venas lactece, the lympha- tick vessels, the Copernican hypothesis, tlie nature of comets and new stars, the satellites of Jupiter, the oval shape (as it then appeared) of Saturn, the spots in the Sun, and its turning on its own axis, the inequalities and selenography of the Moon, the several phases of Venus and Mercury, the improvement of telescopes, and grinding of glasses for that purpose ; the weight of air, the possibi- lity or impossibility of vacuities and nature's abhorrence thereof; the Torricellian experiment in quicksilver; the descent of heavy bodies, and the degrees of accelleration therein ; and divers other things of like nature. Some of which were then but new discoveries, and others not so generally known and embraced as they now are ; with other things appertaining to what hath been called the new philosophy, which from the times of Galileo, at Flo- rence, and Sir Francis Bacon, (Lord Verulam) in England, hath been much cultivated in Italy, France, Germany, and other parts abroad, as well as in England. " About the year 1648-9, some of our company being removed to Oxford, (first Dr. Wilkins, then I, and soon after Dr. Goddard) our company divided. Those in Lon- don continued to meet there as before, and we with them when we had occasion to be there ; and those of us at Oxford, with Dr. Ward, (since Bishop of Salisbury,) Dr. Ralph Bathurst, (now president of Trinity College in LONDINIANA. 43 Oxford,) Dr. Petty, (since Sir William Petty,) Dr. Willis, (then an eminent Physician in Oxford,) and divers others continued such meetings at Oxford, and brought such studies into fashion there ; meeting first at Dr. Petty's lodgings in an apothecary's house, because of the con- venience of inspecting drugs and the like, as there was occasion ; and after his removal to Ireland (though not so constantly) at the lodgings of Dr. Wilkins, the Warden of Wadham College ; and after his removal to Trinity College in Cambridge, at the lodgings of the Honourable Mr. Robert Boyle, then resident for divers years in Oxford. " Those meetings in London continued, and after the King's return in 1660, were increased by the accession of divers worthy and honourable persons ; and were after- wards incorporated by the name of the Royal Societt/y Sfc, and so continue to this day." The Charter of Incorporation of the Royal Society, was granted by Charles the Second, in the year 1663. Until the year 1824, when it was raised to four guineas, the yearly payment of each member con- tinued to be Jifty-two shillings^ at which sum it had been oricfinally fixed. A letter from the great Sir Isaac Newton, is said to be still preserved in the archives of this society, stating that he could not afford to pay more than one shilling weekly ! CHARACTER OF A GULL. The following Epigrams, characteristic of one branch o^ the dandyism of Queen Elizabeth's days, are de- rived from a small octavo volume attributed to Chris- topher Marlow and Sir John Davis, and containing a 44 LONDINIANA. translation of all Ovid's Elegies by the former writer, and forty-five epigrams by the latter. There is no date on the title page ; but it must have been pub- lished before the 1st of June, 1599, as Marlow's trans- lation of the Eleo;ies was so strongly tainted with the licentious profligacy of the original, that ths volume was burnt at Stationers' Hall, in pursuance of an order then made by the Archbishop of Canterbury, and the Bishop of London. Of a Gull Oft in my laughing rimes I name a Gull, But this new terme will many questions breede : Therefore at first I will expresse at full, Who is a true and perfect Gull indeed. A GlUI is he who feares a velvet gowne, And when a wench is brave dares not speake to her : A Gull is he which traverseth the towne, And is for marriage knowne a common woer ; A Gull is he, which while he proudly weares A silver-hilted rapier by his side, Indures the lyes and knockes about the eares, Whilst in its sheath his sleeping sword doth bide. A Gull is he which weares good handsome cloathes ; And stands in presence stroaking up his hayre; And fiUes up his imperfect speech with oathes, But speakes not one wise word throughout the yeare. But to define a Gull in terms precise, — A Gull is he which seemes and is not wise. Meditations of a Gull, See yonder melancholic gentleman. Which, hoode-winked with his hat, alone doth sit ; LONDINIANA. 45 Think what he thinkes, and tell me if you can, What great affaires troubles his little wit. He thinks not of the war 'twixt France and Spaine, Whether it be for Europe's good or ill ; Nor whether the Empire can itselfe maintaine Against the Turkish povv'r encroaching still ; Nor what great towne in all the Netherlands The States determine to besiege this spring ; Nor how the Scottish policy now stands. Nor what becomes of the Irish mutining. — But he doth seriously bethinke him whether. Of the gulled people he be more esteem'd For his long cloake, or his great blacke feather, By which each Gull is now a gallant deem'd. Or of a journey he deliberates, To Paris Garden, cock-pit or the play. Or how to steal a dog he meditates. Or what he shall unto his mistresse say : — Yet with those thoughts he thinkes himselfe most fit. To be of counsell with a King for wit. ADMIRAL VERNON AND THE DUCHESS OF MARLBOROUGH. Admiral Vernon, whom Lord Byron in the open- ing canto of Don Juan, has stigmatized as " the But- cher j'^ became a popular favourite after his capture of Porto Belle, in November, 1739. In the following year, the anniversary of his birth day, namely, No- vember the 12th, was kept in the City, and indeed throughout England, with great rejoicings, bonfires, &c. and " such illumination of houses, as scarce was known to be before in memory of any one." On 46 LONDIMANA. that occasion the Duchess Dowager of Marlborough presented two does to the Lord Mayor, and one doe to each Sheriff, for the purpose of feasting their friends ; and on the 1st of January following, his Lord- ship and the Sheriffs waited upon the Duchess at her house in St. James's to return their acknowledgments. — '* She received us," says Mr. Hoare, in the MS. Journal already quoted, " in her usual manner, sit- ting up in her bed, and expressed much satisfetc- tion for the compliment and great honour, as she said, w-e had done her, in returning our thanks ; and after an hour's conversation upon indifferent matters, we retired." The Gentlcmaiis Magazine for the same year, states that Vernon's birth-day was distinguished in a very extraordinary manner, by ringing of bells and public dinners in many places ; and in the evening by the greatest rejoicings, bon-fires and illuminations in Lon- don and many other cities that had been known for many years. *' Don Blass was burnt in some places, and at Chancery-lane end was a pageant, whereon was represented Admiral Vernon, and a Spaniard on his knees offerins: him a sword, a view of Porto Bello, &c. Over the Admiral was v/ritten, Venit, vidit, vicit, and under him, Vernon semper viret,'' PROVISIONS IN QUEEN ELIZABETH'S REIGN. The general prices of provisions, &c. in London, in the latter part of Elizabeth's reign, may be estimated from the under-written items, which form a portion LONDINIANA. 47 of an old household account for the years 1594 and 1.j95, belonging to an iniiabitant of the Parish of St. Michael Bassishaw. 1594. £ s. d. Paid unto Thomas Francis, his quarter's wages, due March 25th . . . 13 4 Paid to Margeret Jurden, as aforesaid . 6 8 Paid 26th of March, for 104lb. of butter, re- ceived out of Gloucestershire, whereof lelb. at 3d. ob. the pound, and the rest at 3d. the lb. l 6 8 For salte for the said butter . ...006 Paid for carriage of the said butter, from Bristol to London . . . . .046 Paid 29th of Marche, for a fore-quarter of lambe with the head Paid for a capon Mne stone of beef, at 18c/. the stone . For a quart of Malmsey For 4lb. of soape .... Paid April 3d for a lambe For a dozen of pigeons For 28 eggs ..... Paid April 6th, to Mr. Sterie, for 3 pecks of fine flour ..... Paid for a side of veal For a calve's head .... For 3 pints of strawberries, June 6 For a pecke of pease, June 8 For another pecke, June 14 A pint of olives .... A bush ell of bay salt .... A pint of claret wine 2 2 1 2 : 13 6 8 10 5 2 4 8 2 6 8 iO 1 4 10 5 6 1 6 3 6 4 1 O 6 6 48 LONDINIANA. A quart of strawberries, June 29 A pecke of oysters, July 31 Six artichokes, August 3 Two roapes of onyons Half a pecke of filbirdes, August 1 9 Half a hundred of oranges, Feb. 9, 1595 .009 WALK OF ROBIN CONSCIENCE THROUGH LONDON. The satirical ballad of " Robin Conscience, or Con- scionable Robin, in his progress through Court, City and Country," which was first published at Edin- burgh in 1683, and has been since printed in the *« Harleian Miscellany," contains many local particu- lars of this city, some of which possess considerable interest. The piece itself, is too long for insertion here, but an analysis with extracts will afford both amusement and information. Robin Conscience is represented as relating his own adventures, and the ill-treatment and rebuffs which he constantly met with on telling his name. He says, — " I first of all went to the Court Where lords and ladies did resort. My entertainment there was short Cold welcome ! As soon as e'er my name they heard, They ran away full sore afear'd, And thought some goblin had appear*d From hell come:" Being banished from Court, he went to Westminster Hall, but was treated with equal indignity by the lawyers: — LONDINIANA. 4'^ " 'Twas no great matter, some they said. If Conscience quite were knock'd i' th' head," and Robin departed hastily lest they should execute their threats. He fares no better among the shop- keepers in the city, and quitting them for ever, pro- ceeds to the Friday horse-market in Smithfield. " Where being come, incontinent The horse-coursers with one consent Did chide me ; " And said I was a preaching elf. And they could get more store of pelf Beside me. " I told them of a cheating trick. Which makes the horses run and kick By putting in an eel that's quick, r th' belly." His freedom displeased his hearers, and leaving them in dudgeon, he next visited the brokers in Long-lane ; but there both men and women were in arms against? him, * all crying,' — " Away with Conscience from this lane, For we his presence do disdain : — They said ifl came there again Among them, " They said they'd band me back and side ; Being menaced, away I hie'd ; Thus worldlings think, that when I chide, I wrong them." The butchers used him with equal incivility, and the butter-women and bakers in Newgate-market, who VOL. II. B 50 LONDINIAN^. sold by short weight, affrighted him by their brawiiiig. He proceeds, " Thu3 chid of them, my way I took, Unto Pye-corner, where a cook Glanc'd at me as the Devil did look O'er Lincoln. " ' Conscience,* quoth he, * thou shew'st not wit In coming to this place unfit ; I'll run thee thorow with a spit ; Then think on " Those words to thee which I have said, I cannot well live by my trade, If I should still require thy aid. In selling : " Sometimes one joint I must roast thrice. Ere I can sell it at my price; Then here's for thee (who art so nice) No dwelling'. " Perforce he drave me backward still. Until I came unto Snow-hill ; The sale-men there, with voices shrill Fell on me. " I was SQ irksome in their sight. That they Qonjured me to flight, Or else they swore, (such was their spight) * They'd Stone me."* At Tum-again-lane, the 'tish-wives and wenches,* treated him with Bdling.^giiie contumely ; and, * Their bodges, which for half-pecks go They vowed at my head to throw : . Nq Conscience they were bred to kuow • ■ But prativ*^. LONDINIA^fA. 51 " Away, thus frighted by those icolds, To Fleet-street straight my love it holds, Where men, whose tongues were made in tilouids Of flattery ; Did cry, ' what lack you, country-tti^n ?* But seeing me, away they ran. As though the enemy had began His battery. — " The haberdashers, that sell hats. Hit Robin Conscience many pats, And, like a company of cats. They scratch'd me. " The mercers and silk-men also. That live in Pater-noster-row, Their hate against poor Conscience shew : And, when I " Came to that place, they all did set On me, * cause I their gain would let. Who will both swear and lye to get One penny.' In Cheapside, they threatened him with death, for intruding into such a ' golden place ;' and a cheese- monger whom he meets in Bread-street, hies from him with * winged feet.' In Fish-street, the lads who wish for a perpetual Lent, swear that he shall not 'guide a stall there.' This want of courtesy drives him to the Royal Exchange, but the merchants in the lower part utterly refuse to consort with him, and rebut his advances in these words: " * For we have trafflck without thee ; And thrive best, if thou absent be. "• " E 2 62 LONDINIANA. " Now I, being thus abusM below. Did walk up stairs, where on a row Brave shops of ware did make a show Most sumptuous. " But, when the shop-folk me did spy, They drew their dark light instantly. And said, in coming there, was I Presumptuous. " The gallant girls that there sold knacks Which ladies and brave women lacks. When they did see me they did wax In choler. " Quoth they, 'we ne'er knew Ck)nscienc€ ye And, if he comes our gains to let. We'll banish him, he'll here not get One scholar. " I, being jeered thus and scorn'd. Went down the stairs, and sorely mourn'd To think that I should thus be turn'd A begging. " To Grace-church-street, I went along. Where dwelt a great ungracious throng That will deceive both old and young With cogging " As drapers, poulterers, and such "' Who think they never get too much ; The word Conscience to them is Dutch, Or Spanish ; " And harder too, for speech they'll learn, With all their heart, to serve their turn. But Conscience, when they him discern. They banish." LONDINIANA. 53 Proceeding; over the Bridg-e into Southwark, he was used still more unkindly than in London ; and, instead of the welcome which he had hoped to find, was sub- jected to derision and mockery. " All sorts of men and women, there, Ask'd how I durst to them appear. And swore my presence they would clear Abandon. " Then I, being sore athirst, did go Into an alehouse in the Row, Meaning a penny to bestow On strong beer ; " But, 'cause I for a quart did call, My hostess swore, * she'd bring me small, Or else I should have none at all.' Thus wrong'd there, " I bade her on her licence look, * Oh Sir,' quoth she, * ye are mistook, I have a lesson without book Most perfect : " If I my licence should observe, And not in any point to swerve. Both I and mine, alas ! should starve, Not surfeit. " Instead of a quart-pot of pewter, I fill small jugs, and need no tutor; I quart'ridge give to the geometer Most duly ; " And he will see, and yet be blind; A knave, made much of, will be kind, If you be one. Sir, tell your mind Most truly. H LONDINIANA. " * No, no/ quoth I, * I am no knave. No fellowship with such I have; My name is Robin Conscience, brave, That wander " From place to place, in hope that some Will as a servant give me room ; But all abuse me, where I come. With slander " Now, when my hostess heard me tell My name, she swore * I should not dwell With her, for I would make her sell Full measurer " She did conjure me to depart ; ' Hang Conscience,* quoth she, * give me art I have not got, by a penny a quart. My treasure.' — " So out of doors I went with speed, And glad she was to be thus freed Of Conscience, that she thence might speed In frothing." Poor Robin is alike repulsed by the jailer of the King's Bench, and the harlots of Blackman Street. The "rooking rascals in St. George's Field," who "all the year build their hopes on cheating," and were " close playing at nine pins," rebuffed his ad- vances with similar scorn — he proceeds : " I left them in their wickedness. And went along in great distress. Bewailing of my bad success. And speed. LONDINIANA. 56 ** A wind-mill standing there hard by, Towards the same then passed I, But when the miller did me spy, He cryed, " * Away with Conscience, 1*11 none such, Tiiat smell with honesty so much, I shall not quickly fill my hutch With due toll; " But must, for every bushel of meal A peck, if not three gallons, steal ; Therefore with thee I will not deal. Thou true soul.' " Having been thus altogether expelled from the city and its neighbourhood, Robin proceeded into the country, yet without finding a resting place, till heaven directed him to a spot, ''^ where poor folks wrought most sorely;'' and being there "well entertained,'* he fixed his abode with them. — The poem concludes with the following stanza " And so I'll bring all to an end : — It can no honest man offend, For those, that Conscience do defend, It praises. " And if that any gall'd jade kick. The author hath devis'd a trick. To turn him loose, i' th' fields to pick Up daisies." EASTCHEAP, AND THE BOAR'S HEAD TAVERN. Eastcheap, the ancient abode of mine hostess, Dame Quickly, the region of wit, wine, and wassail. 56 LONDINIANA. the resort of the madcap Prince of Wales, and his boon companions old Jack Falstaff, Poins, Pistol, Bardolph, Peto, Gadshill, and Nym, was famous for its convivial jmiketting long before it became customary to frequent taverns, or banquet in ale-houses. Stow, referring to Lydgate's " London-licke Penny^" a satirical song of Henry the Fifth's time, tells us that in Eastcheap, "the Cookes cried hot ribbes of beefe rosted, pies well baked, and other victuals : there was clattering of pewter pots, harpe, pipe, and sawtrie, yea by cocke, nay by cocke, for greater oathes were spared, &c.," and on his own knowledge he reports, that though "now a flesh market of butchers there dwelling, it had sometime also cooks mixed amongst the butchers, and such other as sold victuals ready dressed of all sorts. For of old time when friends did meet, and were disposed to be merry, they went not to dine and suppe in taverns, but to the Cookes where they called for meate what them liked, which they alwaies found ready dressed, and at a reasonable rate."* But alas ! how grievously is the scene changed since the up- roarious days of Falstaff and honest Stow. " The madcap Royster,'* as that most spirited sketcher of de- parted and departing customs, * Geoffrey Crayon, Gent.,'f hath delineated with a pencil tinged by regret, " has given place to the plodding tradesman ; the clattering of pots, and the sound of ' harpe and saw- trie,' to the din of carts, and the accursed dinging of the dustman's bell ; and no song is heard, save, haply, • " Survey of London/' edit. 1618. p. 404. f " Sketches/* ' as acted in 1601. Now, admitting the former year to be that in which his reputation as an actor became established, we may .ONDINIANA. 87 Epitaph on S. P., a Child of Queen Elizabeth's Chapel. Weepe with me all you that read This little storie, And know for whom a tear you shed. Death's selfe is sorry. 'Twas a child, that so did thrive In grace and feature, As Heaven and Nature seem'd to strive Which own'd the creature. Yeeres he number'd scarce thirteene When Fates turn'd cruell. Yet three fiU'd Zodiackes had he beene The stage's iewell ; And did act (what now we mone) Old men so duely, As sooth the Parcce thought him one, He plai'dso tr. ely. So, by error, to his fate They all consented, But viewing him since (alas, too late !) They have repented. conclude that his decease occurred either in 1602 or early in 1603, as " the three-filled zodiacs,'' during which, as tbe poet expresses, he had been the " Stage's Jewel," would then have expired. To which of the above plays Mr. Clarke alludes as •' Tfie Comical Satyre^' in which Pavy acted, is dubious, as those words form the secoBdary title iiDINlAKA. Stories of unequal dimensions. On each side of the lower story, are six semicircular arches, panelled and separated from each other by pilasters of the Ionic order, and at each end is a broad flat arch, flanked by similar pilasters. The other story has four arches on each side, and two at the ends, separated by coupled pilasters of the Corinthian order. Each story had its proper entabkture, but these have been nearly demo- lished, and the whole was surmounted by a gable roof, which has been entirely destroyed. All this wood- work (which was probably erected by Abbot Fecken- ham, in Queen Mary's reign) was inlaid, to correspond in some measure with the mosaic enrichments of the ancient shrine. The present coffin of the pious Edward, which may be seen from the parapet of Henry V.'s Chapel, is deposited within the ancient stone- work, about the height of the architrave. It was made by order of James II. (who commanded the old coffin to be enclosed within it) of strong planks, two inches thick, cramped or banded with iron. The entire height, from the pavement to the top of the shrine, is fourteen feet nine inches. Originally the upper part of the shrine was plated with gold, and adorned v»'ith precious stones, and the whole is re- corded to have been so admirably wrought that the workmanship exceeded the materials. This Shrine, as well as the adjacent monument of King Henry III. has been generally ascribed to Pietro Cavalini, on the authority of Vertue and Walpole, but there is eveiy reason to believe that the words LOXDINIANA. 97 Pelrus duxit in actum, Romanis Civis, &c. in the ancient inscription, given above, referred to some other artist. According to Vasari, Cavalini was a disciple of Giotto, and, like his master, practised in mosaic, as well as in painting; but it appears, from the same authority, that Giotto was not born till the year 1276, nor his pupil till 1 279. Now, St. Edward's Shrine, according to the original inscription, was completed in 1270, the authenticity of which date is substantially corroborated by our ancient chroniclers, who all attest that St. Edward's remains were translated into the new Shrine in 1269. Walpole has misunderstood Va- sari, and then taxed him with confounding his own account.* Weever states, that Abbot Ware, who was twice at Rome, viz. first in 1260 for confirmation, and again in 1267 on a mission from the King, brought with him, on returning to England, " certain workmen, and rich porphyry stones, whereof he made that singular, curious, and rare Pavement before the high altar ; and with those stones and workmen he did also * Vertue, (vide "Walpole's Works/' vol. iii. p. 24, edit. 1798), supposed Cavalini to have designed those beautiful crosses wbicb Edward I. erected in memory of Eleanor, his first Queen : but it is extremely doubtful whether Cavalini was ever in England. The crosses were certainly the work of English artists ; and are altogether difiFerent, as well in design and style as in materials and execution, from either of the monuments attributed to Cavalini, whether at Westminster or at Strawberry Hill. VOL. II. H 98 LOXDIXTANA. frame the Shrine of Edivard the Confessor:' It is pro- bable, therefore, tl:at the artist called Petrus in the in- scription, was one of those persons whom Abbot Ware brought from Rome, on his return from his last journey in 1267. Among the numerous Reliqnes deposited in this Chapel, and which were under the direct charge of the Keeper of the Feretry (who was chosen from among the senior monks), was the crystalline vessel of our Saviour's Blood, which had been sent by the Knights Templars from the Holy Land in 1247, as a present to Henry HI., and was attested by Robert, Patriarch of Jerusalem, to have trickled from our Saviour's wounds at his Crucifixion. The famous Stone, also, which was marked with the impression of the foot of Christ, as ind nted at his Ascension, and had been brought into England by the Friars' Preachers, was another of the holy reliques which were here kept, and had been given by Henry HI., toiiether with a thorn of Christ's crown, and various remains of Saints, including an arm of St. Sylvester, and a tooth of St. Athanasius ! Here, likewise, was preserved a large piece of our Saviour's cross, richly adorned with gold, silver, and precious stones, which had been brought from Wales by Edward 1. in the year 1285 ; and, also, the skull of St. Benedict, which had been given by Edward HI. When these inestimable valuables Avere not exposed to the awe-struck gaze of the devotee, they were lodged in a secure repository, the site of which is now occu- pied by the tomb of Henry the Vth. LONDINIANA. 99 The very high degree of veneration in which the Confessor's memory was held, may be partly appre- ciated from the preceding account : yet a few other particulars, connected with this subject, may not be uninteresting. On St. Edward's day, viz. that of the anniversary of his translation, the principal citizens of London, in their corporate capacity, were accus- tomed to visit his Shrine ; and at the same time, grand processions with waxen tapers were made to it by all the religious communities of tiie metropolis. The splendours of the festival were frequently heightened by the presence of the sovereign and his court, and we are informed that in the year 1390, Richard IT. (who had selected the Confessor as his patron saint) and his Queen sat crowned in this Church, with their sceptres in their hands, during the celebration of mass on this anniversary. But it was not on this day alone that Edward's memory was thus honoured; on all extraordinary occasions, and at the three great feasts of Christmas, Easter, and Whitsuntide, his Shrine was the principal resort of the people. Here vows were made, thanks returned, prayers offered up, and bene- fits solicited. Superstition and leal piety were equally realous in their devotions; and every rank of society, from the prince to the vagrant, flocked Inther to make their oblations. At this Shrine, Henry IV. on March 20th, 1413, who had bean some time afflicted with an apoplectic disease, was seized with his last mortal fit, whilst performing his devotions to St. Edward, when on the eve of his departure for the Holy Laud. H 2 loo LONDINIANA. In the year 1415, on the morrow after the Festival of St. Simon and St. Jude, when the news of the great battle of Agincourt had arrived in London, the Queen, Henry IV. 's widow, and her attendants, made their offerings at St. Edward's Shrine in gratitude for the victory ; and on the same day, the Mayor, Alder- men, and Livery of London, with all the religious men of the different orders, came hither in solemn procession to offer up their thanksgivings for the same ever-memorable triumph. Here, also, Edward IV., on the 3d of March, 1 460, made his offerings ; after hearing the singing of Te Deum, on the occasion of the people assenting to his being King, when the question was asked them in Westminster Hall, where he had pre- viously sat to hear their determination, with St. Ed- ward's sceptre in his hand. At this Shrine, likewise, Richard III. and his Queen made their oblations before their coronation, in the choir, on the 6th of July, 1483, after having walked in procession, barefooted, from the King's seat, or bench, in Westminster Hall. Many other instances of the distinguished reverence paid to St. Edward's remains, are incidentally related by diffe- rent historians.* * The Sivord and S/iield which Dart savs, were " carried be- fore Edward III., in France," are kept in this Chapel. The Sword is seven feet three inches in length and weighs eighteen pounds. The Shield has been stript of its covering, but has a JininsT of leather and buckram. It is of plain wood, three feet two inches long, and one foot ten inches wide. LONDINIANA. 101 WESTMINSTER ABBEY^ ANCIENT CORONATION CHAIR, AND PROPHETIC STONE. Near St. Edward's Shrine at Westminister, stands that celebrated object of popular curiosity, the old Co- ronation Chair ; in which the golden diadem has been placed upon the brows of all our sovereigns from the time of Edward II. Yet it is not the Chair alone (al- though in itself a work of much interest, when atten- tively examined), but the far-famed " prophetic," or ** fatal stone," inclosed within the frame-work, that constitutes the great focus of attraction to the Historian and the Antiquary. Tradition has identified this Stone wiihthat on which the Patriarch Jacob reposed his head when he saw the Vision of the ladder reaching to Heaven, with the Angels of God ascending and desceriding, in the plain of Luz, Its known history, however, carries it back to a period so remote, that this legend was scarcely necessary to procure for it respect and veneration ; and whether it were originally an Egyptian or a Celtic monument, it furnishes a very remarkable proof of the wide diffusion of a most ancient practice observed in the inauguration of Kings ; namely, by placing them either upon, or near to, an elevated stone, at th^ moment of investing them with the plenitude of regal power. This custom had its origin in the East, where it spread extensively, and is alluded to in many 102 LONDINIANA. passages of the Old Testament, and it certainly became general among the Celtic and Scandinavian nations.* The fullest account of this Stone given by any single writer, is that by Fordun, who, in his *' Scoto Chronicon,''^ which was composed in the reign of Edward III., has devoted an entire chapter to its early history ; the substance of his statement is as follows. " There was a certain King of Spain, of the Scottish race, called Milo, having many sons ; one, however, named Simon Brek, he loved above all the others, although he was neither the elder nor the heir. His father, therefore, sent him to Ireland with an army, and gave him a marble Chair^ carved with very ancient art by a skilful workman, in which the Kings of Spain, of the Scottish nation, were wont to sit when inaugurated, from which cause it was carefully brought into his region, as if it were an anchor. This Simon having reached the above island with a great army, reduced it under his dominion, • The connecting the Prophetic Stone with the vision of Jacob was, most probably, an invention of the Monks of Westminster ; or the most ancient document in which it was thus described, was a Tablet, formerly suspended above the Chair in St. Ed- ward's Chapel. Camden, who himself uses the phrase " Saao Jaeobi, ut vocant, (fee," has given the inscription as follows : — '' Si quid habent veri vel Chronica, cana fidesve, Clauditurhac Cathedra, nobilis ecce Lapis: Ad caput eximius Jacob quondam Patriarcha Quem posuit, cernens numina mirapoli. Quem tulit ex Scotis spolians quasi victor honoris, Edwardus Primus, Mars velut Armipotens, Scotorum Domitur, noster valid issimus Hector, Anglorum Decus, et Gloria Militiye.'^ LONDINIAXA. 103 and reigned in it many years. He placed the aforesaid Stone, or Chair, at Themor, the royal residence, a noted place, at which his successors were accustomed to reside, dis- tinguished with kingly honours. GatheliiSy as some say, brought this Chair, with other regal ornaments, with him from Egypt into Spain. Others relate, that Simon Brek, having anchored on the Irish Coast, was forced by con- trary winds to withdraw his anchors from the billowy surge, and whilst strenuously labouring to that end, a stone, in the form of a Chair, cut out of marble, was hauled up with the anchors into the ship. Receiiang this, both as a precious boon from Heaven, and as a cer- tain presage of future dominion; he, trembling with excessive joy, adored his gods for the gift, as if they had absolutely appointed him to the kingdom and the crown. It was there prophesied, likewise, that he and his pos- terity should reign wherever that Stone should be found : from which divination some one made this metrical prophecy, which, according to the common opinion, has frequently proved to be true : — " Ni fallat Fatum, Scoti quocunque locatum Invenient Lapidem, regnare tenentur ibidem." In Holinsbed's Chronicle is a long account of the above-named Gathelus, who is there said to have been a Greek, ' the sonne of Cecrops, who builded the citie of Athens.' After leaving Greece, " Gathelus resided some time in Egypt, where he married Scota, the daughter of King Pharaoh ; but being alarmed at the judgment de- nounced by Moses, who was then in Egypt, he quitted that country with many followers, and landed in Spain ;" 104 LONDINIANA. here he "builded a citie, which he named Brigantia ;'* yet not without great opposition from the native Spaniards. Having at length succeeded in making peace with his neighbours, he sat " vpon his Marble Stone, in Brigantia, where he gave lawes and ministered justice vnto his people, thereby to menteine them in wealth and quietnesse. This Stone was in fashion like a seat, or chaire, having such a fatall destiny (as the Scots say) following it, that whereever it should be placed, there should the Scotish men reigne and have the supreme governaunce." In the manuscript additions, made by an anonymous writer, in the reign of Henry VI., to the rhymins; Chronicle of Robert of Gloucester (now preserved in the College of Arms), it is stated, that *' The Scottes yclupped were Aftur a woman that Scote hyght, the dawter of Pharaon, Yat broghte into Scotlond a whyte marble Ston, Yat was ordeyed for thare Kyng, whan he coroned wer. And for a grete Jewyll long hit was yhold ther. — Kyng Edward wyth the lang Shankes from Scotland hit fette, Besyde the Shryne of Seynt Edward at Westminstre ther hitte sette." In the Lowland Scotch of *« Wintownis Chronikil," which was written by the Prior of the very ancient Monastery of St. Serfs Inch, in Loch Levin, between the years 1420 and 1424, the history of the Stone is thus given in the ninth chapter of the third book. This commences by stating, that in the time of the brothers Romulus and Remus, there was a mighty king LONDINfANA. 105 reigning in Spain, who had many sons, one of whom was " Simon Brek :" " A gret Stdne )jhis King Jjhan had, Dat fore )?is Kyngis sete wes made. And haldyne wes a gret jowale Wytht-in >e Kynryk of Spayne hale. Dis King bad f^is Simon ta DatStane, and in-tyl Yrlandga, And wyn fjat Land and occupy, And halde }jat Stane perpetually And make it his sege ^-are As Jjai of Spayne did it of are." — Simon Brek (continues the Chronicle) having arrived at, and conquered Ireland, " Dare he made a gret Cyt6 And in it syne Jjat Stane gert he Be set, and haldyn for jowale And Chartyr of Jjat Kynryke hale."— Fergus, the son of Eric, a lineal descendant from Brek, long afterwards " Broucht \>\s stane wyth-in Scotland Fyrst qwhen he come and wane Jjat land. And fyrst it set in Ikkolmkil, And S.une }jare-eftyr it wes broucht tyl : And Jjare it was syne mony day Qwhyll Edward gert have it away.'* — " Now will l\>e Werd rehers As I fynd of )jat Stane in wers ; '* Kifallat Fatum, Scoti, qiiocunq; locatwn, Inuenient Lapidem, regnare ttnentur ibidem" 106 LOXDINIA^A. " But gyf werdys falyhand be, Qwhare-evyr l^at Stane yhe segyt se, Dar.ftsall J^e Scottis be regnand, And Lorddys hale oure all \>at land." Sir James Ware states, from the Irish historians, that this Stone was brought into their country by the colony of the Tuath de Danans, and that it had the property of issuing sounds resembling thunder when- ever any of the Royal Scythian Race placed themselves on it for inaugumtion, and that he only was crowned monarch of Ireland, under whom, when placed on it, the Stone groaned or spake. Fergus, the first King of Scotland, who was descended from the blood-royal of Ireland, " is said to have been crowned upon this Fatal Stone, which, as we find in the Histories of Scotland, he had from Ireland about the year of the world 3641, and 330 years before Christ, and he placed it in Argyle, where it continued until the reign of King Kenneth II., who, A. D., 840, having vanquished the Picts near Scone, inclosed the Stone in a Wooden Chair, and deposited it in the monastery there, to serve for the inauguration of the Kings of Scotland.^^* Its place in Ireland was the Hill of Tarah ; and for * " Antiquities of Ireland,'' Vol. ii., pp. 10 and 24. Ac- cording to Pennant, its station, when in Argylesbire, was the Castle of Dunstaflfnage, and be has given an engraving of an ivory image, found in the rains of that Castle, which represents a King with a book in his hand, sitting, as he supposes, in the ancient Chair, "whose bottom was the Fatal Stone." Vide " Tour to the Hebrides/' vol. ii. p. 409, and vol. iii. p. 117, LONDINIANA. 107 some ages the supreme kings of that country were placed upon it at the time of inauguration. When mentioning the ancient names of Ireland, Sir James says, also, that " it was called Innis-fail, or the Island of Destiny, from the Fatal Stone, called Lia- fail,''"' which was the Irish designation of this stone. Chalmers asserts, that the last of the Scottish Kings who *'had the felicity to be crowned in this essential seat, was Alexander III ; and it is said that the Earl of Fife, as it was his privilege to do, (from hereditary right) placed the King in Cathedrum Marmoreum,''^ Har- dyng, however, whose metrical "Chronicle " was partly composed in Henry the Sixth's reign, (and with whom, on this point, several ancient historians agree) speaking of John Baliol, affirms that he was crowned " In the Minster of Scone, within Scotlad grond, Sittyng vpon the regal Stone full sound, As all the K3'nges there vsed had afore. On Sainct Andrewes day, with al joye therefore.*" Buchanan, speaking of Kenneth II., in his Scotish History, says, that *' having enlarged his kmgdom, and settled wholesome laws for the good administration of the government, he further endeavoured to confirm the royal authority by mean and trivial things, almost bordering on superstition itself." There was ** a Marble Stone,'' •\ he continues, "which Simon Breccus * ''Caledonia," vol. i. p. 4(38. + '* Saxum Marmoreitm, (fee.'* " Kennethus in Cathedram ligneam inclusum." Vide " Rerurn Scot. Hist.'' Lib. vi., p. 1<56. edit. 1697. 108 LONDINIANA. is reported to have brought out of Spain into Ireland, and which Fergus, the son of Ferchard, is also said to have brou2:ht over into Scotland and placed in Argyle. This Stone Kenneth removed out of Argyle to Scone, by the river Tay, and placed it there inclosed in a Chair of wood. The Kings of Scotland were wont to receive both the regal title and insignia, sitting in that chair, till the days of Edward I., King of Eng- land." Holinshed, speaking of the removal of this Stone to Westminster, calls it a " Chaire of marble,''^ probably from the old translation of Boece, which thus mentions it : «* In this Chiar all Kinges of Scot- land war ay crownit quhil y* tyme of Kyng Robert Bruse ; in quhais tyme besyde mony othir cruellies done by Kyng Edward lang schankis, the said chair of merbyll was taiken be Inglismen and brocht out of Scone to London, and put into Westmonistar, quhare it remainis to our dayis.'* The internal dissentions of Scotland in the latter part of the thirteenth century, were extremely favourable to the designs of Edward I., who, having formed a league with Bruce against John Baliol, defeated the latter in a desperate battle near Dunbar, in April, 1296 ; and quickly subduing all Scotland, resolved to deprive the nation of every vestige of its independence. With that intent he caused the crown, sceptre, and Inaugura- tion Stone* with all the pubhc archives, charters, • If entire credence could be given to the "Metrical History of Sir William Wallace,^' written by Blind Harry, we must LONDINIANA. 109 jewels, &c., to be conveyed to London, there to remain as lasting memorials of his conquests, and of the entire subjugation of the Scots. In the wardrobe account of Edward I., under the head of ** Jewels remaining at the end of the twenty- seventh year, of those which were some time the King of Scotland's," are enumerated, *' a large silver Cup believe that Edward I., after he had dethroned and imprisoned Baliol, was himself crowned King of Scotland upon this very Stone ; but the circumstance does not appear to be mentioned by any other historian, although so extremely consonant to Ed- ward's Policy. King Edward past, and Corspatrick to Scone, And there he gat homage of Scotland sone. For nane was left ye realmefor to defend, For John Ballioll yan to Montros yai send And him depryuit i'or ay of this kingrik, Than Edward his self was callit ane Royall Rik, The crown he tuik upon thesamein stake That Gatheliis send with his sonefra Spayne. Quhen Yber Scot first into Scotland came. That Canmore syne, King Fergus had to name, Brochtit to Scone, and gart it stabill thair Quhair Kingis was crownit viii hudreth yeir and mair, Befoir the tyme yat King Edward it fand, Thir Jowellis he gart tiirs in Ingland, In Loundoun set in witness of that thing. By conqueis yan of Scotland maid him King. Quhair ye Stane standis, Scotland suld maisterbe, Godcheis ye tyme for Margaretis airis to se. 110 LONDINIANA. and a great Stone, upon which the Scottish Kings were accustomed to be crowned."* Walsingham, in his " Ypodigma Neustree," says that Edward, in returning by the Abbey of Scone, took from thence the Stone wliich the Kings of Scot- land were wont to use for a throne at the time of Coronation, and brought it to Westminster ; ordering it to be thenceforth made the chair of the officiating priests : andHardyng, in his before mentioned *' Chro- nicle," who evidently derived his information from that writer, but with an amplification, which shews that he had himself seen the Chair, has thus stated the circum- stances of the removal in homely verse : — *' And as he came homewarde, by Skene away, The Regal theve of Scotland then he brought And sent it forth to Westmynster for ay To be there in a Cheire clenely wrought For a Masse Priest to syt in, when he ought Wh che there was standying besyde the Shryne In a Cheire of oW Lyme made fid fyne. Matthew of Westminster informs us, under the date 1297, that the King, coming to Wes'.rainster on the morrow of St. Botolph, offered to the blessed King Edward, through whose virlues he had acquired them, the Regalia of the Scotisb Kingdom ; namely, the * " Jocaliaremaueiicia, &c." videlicit, *' Ciphus argenii, pond' 21.11s. 6d. precii. ** Urui PfcTRA Magn'a super qiiam Reges Scocie solebant coronari." Vide " Ward. Ace.'' Lib. Quotidianus. LONDIJsIANA. Ill Throne, the golden Sceptre and the ('rown. Grafton, who says this offering was made on the 18th of June, includes the " Cloth of Estate '* among the regalia, but he makes no mention of the Fatal Stone.* Rapin, after alluding to the intention of King Edward to unite the two kingdoms, and mentioning his removal into England of the Scotish regalia, &c., together with " the famous Stone on which the inauguration of their Kings was performed," proceeds thus ; — " The people of Scotland had all along placed in that Stone a kind of fatality. They fancied that whilst it remained in their country the State would be unshaken, but the moment it should be elsewhere removed, great revolutions would ensue; for this reason Edward carried it away, to create in the Scots a belief that the time of the dissolution of their monarchy was come, and to lessen their hopes of recovering their liberty."f Nothing, indeed, can shew the vast importance attached to the possession of this Stone by the Scots, in a more forcible point of view, than the circumstance that it was not only made the subject of an express **' Cbron." p. 177. Edit. 1569. It would seem that botli the Crown and Sceptre, as well as Ihe Royal Seat, were still preserved in the Abbey Church in Camden's time. His words are, after speaking of the offering to God, (Deo obtulit, drc.) of the Crown, Sceptre, and Throne, — " Quod qiiidem Solium adhuc in hac Regia Capella servatur, cum saxo Jacobi, ut vocant. im- posito." Vide. " Reges, Regiiia?, Nobilis, et alij in Ecc. Col. B. Petri West, sepulli.'' Small 4 to. 1603. t *' History of England." Vol. i. p. 375, 112 LONDINIANA. article in a treaty of Peace, but, also, of a political Con- ference between Edward III. and David II., King of Scotland. For our knowledge of the first of these facts we are indebted to the industrious author of the Intro- duction to the "Calendars of ancient Charters,'* who discovered a Writ of Privy Seal, dated at Bordesly, July the 1st, 1328 (being shortly after the treaty with Scotland was signed), and directed to the A.bbot and Convent at Westminster, wherein the King, (Edwaidlll.) after reciting that '* his Council had, in his Parliament held at Northampton, agreed that the Stone whereupon the Kings of Scotland used to sit at the time of their Coronation, and which was then in the keeping of that Abbot and Convent, should be sent to Scotland, and that he had ordered the Sheriffs of London to receive the same from them by indenture, and cause it to be delivered to the Queen mother^''' commands the Abbot and Convent "to deliver up the said Stone to those Sheriffs, as soon as they should come to them for that purpose."* Notwithstanding this command, it is clear that the Coronation Stone never was given up, although many ancient records, jewels, and muni- ments were actually delivered to the Scots, in pursuance of the Treaty. The eleventh head of the Conference held at London between Edward III. and David, King of Scotland, in * Ayloffe's Calendars," p. 58. Introduct. Ex autographo penes Decanum et Capitulum West. LONDINIAXA. 113 the year 1 363, is thus breifly detailed by Dalrymple : ** The King, after having been crowned King of England, to come regularly to the kingdom of Scotland, and to be crowned King, at Scone, in the Royal Chair, whichistobedeliveredup by the English. The ceremony of the coronation to be performed by persons whom tlie Court of fiome shall depute for that purpose."* Even this agreement remained equally unfulfilled with the former one, and the Stone was still permitted to retain its place in St. Edward's Chapel, and it has ever since continued there. This venerable Stone is placed within the frame- work of the Chair, beneath the seat, and has at Ccich end^ a circular iron handle affixed to a staple let into the stone it?e!f, so that it may be lifted up. It is of an ob Ions: form, but irregular; measuring twenty-six inches in length, sixteen inches and three quarters in breadth, and ten inches and a half in thickness. As far as can be ascertained from inspecting it in its present inclosed situation, it bears much resemblance to the Dun-stones, such as are brought from Dundee in Scotland, and used for various purposes. It is a sandy, granular stone, a sort of debris of sienite, chiefly quartz, with light and reddish-coloured felspar and also light and dark mica, with probably some dark green hornblende, intermixed : some fragments of a reddish-grey clay slate, or schist, are likewise in- * Annals of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 155. VOL. H. I 114 LOXDINIAXA. eluded in its composition.* — On the upper side, (but hidden by the seat of the Chair) there is also a dark brownish-red coloured flinty pebble, which, from its hardness, has not been cut through, though imme- diately crossed by the indent above-mentioned. 'I'radition intimates, as vve have seen, that this Stone was originally brought from Egypt, and it is a remark- able fact, when mineralogically considered, that the substances composins; it accord, in the grains, with the sienite of Pliny, the same as Pompey's pillar at Alexandria, but the particles are much smaller. Geologists will perhaps determine how far this may agree with any formation succeeding the sienite in the Egyptian quarries. It will be ssen by the foregoing particulars with what little precision or correctness, in a descriptive point of view, our ancient historians have mentioned this Stone. Fordun calls it *' a Marble Chair, carved with ancient art by skilful v/orkmen;" and again, '* a Marble Stone, wrought hke a chair." Boece styles it ** a Chair of Marble," and "the Fatal Marble;" Hemingford, "a Stone made concave like a round Chair;" Knighton, " a Stone whereon the Scotish Kings were wont to be placed at their coronations ;" Walsingham, " a Stone used for a Throne;" Matthew of * The writer vas favoured with the above mineralogical description of tlie Stone, by the late Mr. Sowerby, who accom- panied him to the Abbey Churcb, for the purpose of examiniDj its com|io>itiua. LONDIXIAXA. ilo Westminster, '* a Tribunal, or Royal Seat ;" Bishop Leslie, " a Marble Chair;" and Holinshed, " a Chair of Marble" and " a Marble Stone :" Buclianan alone, though he errs in calling it " a Marble Stone," has, with due propriety, attached the epithet "rude or unwrought.'* Among the moderns who have fallen into similar inaccu- racies, is the laborious Carte, who styles it " the famous Stone Chair," and Dr. Henry, who calls it " the Fatal Chair." It is obvious, however, that all the above writers refer to the same object, and what that really is, the preceding description will clearly testify. The Coronation Chair is composed of oak, and is still firm and sound, though much disfigured by wanton mutilations and the effects of time. The mode of its construction so decidedly accords with the general cha- racter of the architecture of Edward the First's rei2;n, that no hesitation could be felt by any one conversant with the subject, in ascribing it to that period, even were there no document extant to support the conjec- ture. Whatever may have become of the original chair in which Kenneth is reported to have had the Stone inclosed, and which does not appear ever to have been brought into England, it is certam that the present Chair was purposely made for the reception of this highly-prized relique of ancient customs and sovereign power. This fact is rendered evident by the *' Wardrobe Accounts" of Edward's time, which have been published under the direction of the Society of Antiquaries. Among the entries of the year 1300. are the follov/ing particulars relating to " a step'* I 2 ]16 L()N1;INIANA. which had been recently made " ad pedem nova Cathedrce in qua Petra Scocie reponitury " To Master Walter, the painter, for the costs and expenses incurred by him about making one step at the foot of the new Chair (in which is the Stone from Scotland), set up near the altar before St. Edward's Shrine, in the Abbatial Church at Westminster, in pursuance of the order of the King in the month of March, and for the wages of the carpenter and painter for painting the said step, and for gold and divers colours bought for the painting of the same, together with the making of one case for covering the said Chair, as appears from the particulars in the Wardrobe Book, 1/. 195. 7dr* The resemblance of this Chair to the mode of architecture prevalent in our first Edward's time, is par- ticularly observable in the forms of the heads and turns of the pannelled arches which ornament the back and sides ; and it was equally so in the shields which for- merly surrounded the frame-work of the seat. It is a wide elbow Chair, with a flat seat, immediately under which is the '* Prophetic Stone :^^ this rests on a kind * It would appear from an official warrant copied into Walpole's '* Anecdotes of the Art?," vol. i., Ibat Master Walter, the painter, presumed to be the same artist who decorated the Chair, had been employed by Henry III. (Anno 1267), to paint the King's chamber in the palace at Westminster ; and there can hardly be a reasonable doubt but that he was also employed (iuy tish be3ond the bounds appointed, which were, the Chapel on London Bridge, Baynard's Castle, and Jordan's Quay, near Billingsgate. No fish were to be boug^ht from any boat, unless fiist brought to land. No fishmonger was either to buy or sell any fre.sh fish before mass was ended at the Ci:;apel upon the Bridge; but salt fish might be sold alter /jriwje. * The Fishmongers' arn.s are, azure, three Dolphins, naiant in pale, between two pairs of Lucies, in salterwise, proper, crowned, or; on a cliief, gules, three couple of keys, cross^ed, as the crowns ; supported on the dexter side by a merman, armed, and on the sinister by a mermaid, holding a mirror in her left band : crest, two arms sustaining a crown: motto, •* All worship he to God only.'* 124 LOXDIXIANA. ment the bankg of the river Thames with stately man- sions, had his entire plan for rebuilding the city b?en carried into effect. In consequence of the site of the new London Bridge having been fixed at a short distance westward from the old Bridge, and of the Company having sold a portion of their land to the City for the purpose of forming a new Street, the ma erials of Fishmongers' Hall were sold by auction in July 1827, and the whole building has been since pulled down. For the small portion of ground purchased by the City the Company was paid a very considerable sum, which is intended to be expended towards de- fraying the charges of a more splendid edifice to be built near the same spot. Behind the seat of the Prime-warden, in the late Hall, within a niche, was a full-sized statue, carved in wood, and painted in proper colours, of Sir William Walworth, Knt., who was represented in the dress of his time, his right hand grasping a real dag2;er, reported to be (but without any truth) the identical weapon with which he struck Wat Tyler from his horse, in Smithfield.* Below the niche were these lines : Brave Walworth, Knight, Lord Mayor, yt slew Rebellious Tyler in his alarmes. The King, therefore, did give in lieu The dagger to the Cytyes arms. * Walpole sajs, that the above statue was made by Edw Pierce, the statuary and architect, who died in 1696, LONDINIANA. 125 In the fourth year of Richard II., A. D. 1381, Sir W. Walworth was buried in the neighbouring Church of St. Michael, and this Company still preserve his funeral Pall, which is curiously embroidered with gold. They have likewise an interesting plan of the splendid Show which was exliibittd at the time of his inauguration as Mayor, in 1380. Among the portraits belonging to this Company, is a very fine picture of the late gallant Admiral, Earl St, Vincent, and two portraits of the Margrave drnd Margravine of Anspach^ executed by Romney, in 1797. They have also eight curious pictures of many different kinds of Fish, by Spiridione Roma, which are grouped with much skill, and correctly coloured. The Fishmongers were anciently accustomed to make a great display of pageantry whenever any one of their Company was advanced to the Mayoralty, and about fifty Lord Mayors are enumerated among its members. They are governed by a Prime and five other Wardens, and a Court of Assistants. GREAT AND LITTLE TURNSTILE, HOLBORN. These much-frequented thoroughfares, the former a straight passage, the latter a crooked alley, derived their names from the Turning Stiles, which two centuries ago, stood at their respective ends next Lincoln's-lnn Fields, and which were so placed both for the conveniency of foot passengers, and to prevent the straying of cattle, the Fields being at that period used for pasturage. The 126 LONDINIANA. genuine edition of Sir Edwin Sandys's curious work, entitled *' Europce Speculum, or a View or Survey of the State of Religion in the Westerne Part of the World,'* 4to., printed in 1G37, was " sold by George Hutton, at the Turning Stile in Holborne.'* The English Translation of Bishop Peter Camus's "Admi- rable Events," printed in 1639, 4to., was also "sold in Holborn, in Turnstile Lane,'''' Strype says, (anno 1720) *' Great Turnstile Alley is a place inhabited by shoe- makers, senipsters, and milliners, for which it is of a considerable trade and well noted." Its present occu- pants can hardly be classed, their trades being mostly different, as dealers in cutlery and hardware, butchers, dress, bonnet, and glove makers, a tobacconist, pastry-cook, fruiterer, &c. Little Turnstile is chiefly inhabited by brokers and petty chandlers. Near to it is Xew Turnstile, built in 1685, which has recently undergone a thorough repair, and is inhabited by small shopkeepers. DEANERY AT WESTMINSTER JERUSALEM CHAMBER, AND DEATH OF HENRY IV. — COLLEGE HALL AND KITCHEN. This Deanery, which was originally the abode of the x^bbots of Westminster, was built by Albot Litling- ton in the reigns of Edward III. and Richard II., together with the Jerusalem Chamber and the College Hall and Kitchen. These buildings are all connected with each other, and inclose a small quadrangular paved court, the only entrance to which is from the LONDINIANA. 127 passage leading into the cloisters from Great Dean's Yard. In the Deanery are several large and hand- some apartments : among the few pictures contained in them, is a good lialt'-length of Queen Elizabeth^ when middle-aged, in an embroidered dress, elaborately- painted; this was presented by the Queen to Dean Goodman. The other portraits are those of the Deans Andreius, Dolben, Sprat, Altcrburi/, a three-quarter length; Bradford, JFilcocks, a half-length, holding a plan of the Abbey Church in his right hand ; Pearce, Thomas, by Vandergutch ; Horsley, and Vincent, by Owen. Here, also, is a north-west view of the Abbey Church of Westminster, with a procession of the Knights of the Bath, in the time of George II ; a good bust of Dean Wilcocks in marble, and plaster casts of Henry HI., Henry VII., and Elizabeth, the latter's Queen, from their respective monuments in the Abbey Church. Some remains of painted glass of Henry the Eighth's time, and somewhat later, are preserved in the windows of the apartments communicating with the Jerusalem Chamber, and in the small ante-room, in an orna- mented niche, probably for a piscina. The chamber itself, which is thirty-eight feet in length, and nine- teen feet in width, was repaired in the summer of 1820. The ceiling is coved ; the chimney-piece is of cedar, but has been painted to imitate grained oak ; it is curiously carved in the style of James the First's reign, when it was first erected, at the cost of Dean Williams : it consists of two divisons of panneUing, &c., having 128 LONDINIANA. cornices, supported by Ionic columns. In the centre pannel are the following arms: Quarterly, first and fourih, a chev. erm. between three Saiacens heads in profile, couped ; second and third, a chev. between three stag's heads, caboshed and attired. This coat is placed between the arms of the See of Lincoln, on the dexter, and those of the College of Westminster on the sinister side ; the whole being in one shield, for Dr. John Williams^ Bishop of Lincoln and Dean ot Westminster, who, in 1641, was advanced to the See of Canterbury. The same arms are represented in the large north window, together with seven small historical and scriptural subjects, in stained and painted glass, which, from their peculiar style of design and mode of execution, may be referred to Richard the Second's reign. Against the side walls, disposed in frames, are some considerable remnants of the old tapestry hangings of the Choir of the Abbey Church, and against the south wall is the well-known curious painting of King Richard II., sitting, in his regal paraphernalia, in the Coronation Chair.* Henry IV. breathed his last in this Chamber, into which he had been brought when seized with his final illness whilst v/orshipping at St. Edward's Shrine, on the 20th of March, 1413. At that period he was pre- paring for a voyage to the Holy Hand, having recently * This picture was carefully cleaned a few years ago, by the late Mr. Charles Mass, whose extraordinary talents for paiatiog; on enumel aud gkss were of the higbeit rauk. LONDINIANA. 129 assumed the Cross in consequence of a prediction that *' he should die in Jerusalem^'' which had been made to him in the early part of his life. " He became so syke/' says Fabian, *' whyle he was makynge his prayers, to take there his leve, and so to spede hym upon his iournaye, that such as were aboute hym feryd that he wolde have dyed right there ; wherefore they, for his comforte, bare hym into the Abbottes place, and lodged hym in a chamber, and there, upon a paylet, leyde hym before the fyre.*'* Shortly after, on recovering his senses, he enquired where he was, and on being told in the Jerusalem Chamber, he adverted to the prophecy, and finding his death to be approaching, employed his last moments in giving counsel to his son, the Prince of Wales ; then recommending his soul to God, he expired. The College Hall (formerly the Abbot's Hall) is spacious and well-proportioned ; the roof is supported by strong beams, and the wall partly lined by a pannelled wainscotting ; at the south end is a large music gallery, now used as a pantry. In the middle of the floor, which is paved with stone, is a raised circular hearth, with a hollow surrounding it, for the combustion of wood, as was usual in great halls in ancient times. On the corbels, below the timbers of the roof, are the arms of St. Edward the Confessor, the Abbey of Westminster, and Abbot Litlington ; and on the north wall are painted those of the College of Westminster ; Trinity College, Cambridge ; and Christ Church, * Fabino's " Chronicle,'' pp.576, 577, edit. ISIO. VOL. II. K 130 L(.NUINIAXA. Oxford. This is now the Dining hall of the Wesi- minster scholars : the Abbot's Kitchen is likewise ap- propriated to their use. vintners' company and hall. The Vintnefs Company was originally composed of the two bodies denominated Vintinarij ana Taberjiarij , the former being the importers and wholesale dealers in wine, and the latter the retailers, who kept taverns and cellars in different parts of the city for selling it in small quantities. " These vintners," says Stow, " as well Englishmen as strangers borne, were of old time great Bourdeaux merchants of Gascoyne and French wines ;" and they were hence denominated the *' Mer- chant Wine-tunners of Gascoyne." We learn from the same authority, that in the reign of Edward III., Grascoigne wines were sold in London, " not above iiij pence, and Rhenish wine not above sixe pence the gallon." The above sovereign empowered the " Mer- chant Vintners'' to carry on an exclusive importation trade for Wine, from Gascony, in the year 1365 ; yet it was not till the fifteenth of Henry VI., anno 1437, that *• the successors of those Vintners and Wine- drawers, that retailed by the gallons, pottell, quart, and pynte," were incorporated by the appellation of " the Master, Wardens, Freemen, and Commonalty of the Mystery of Vintners of the City of London." All the freemen of the Company have the privilege of retailing wine without a license. The further pri- vilege was granted to them in the time of Charles I., anno 1637, " to sell a penny in a quart above the LOXDINIANA. 131 rates set, to dress meat, and to sell beer and sugar ;" but for this they agreed " to pay his Majesty forty shillings upon every tun of wine retailed or vended." Vintners' Hall is a respectable brick building, situated on the south side of Upper Thames Street, immediately contiguous to the new road leading to the Southwark Bridge. Upon this spot stood a large mansion, called Stody Place, or the *' manor of the Vintry," which was given to the Company ** with the tenements round about,*' by Sir John Stody, or Stodie, who was Lord Mayor in 1357. Here, says Stow, " the Vintners builded for themselves a faire Hall, and also thirteen alms-houses for thirteen poor people.*' These were destroyed by the great fire in 1666, after which the present fabric was raised: it forms three sides of a quadrangle and has a dwarf wall, with iron gates and a palisade in front : the gates have stone piers, which are sculptured with grapes and vine leaves. The Hall, occupying the south side, is a spacious and lofty apartment, paved with marble, and neatly wainscotted. Here are many shields of arms of Masters of the Company, and, in different windows, are the Company's arms,* and also those of Charles II. In the same window with the latter, (which is over a recess, on the north side,) is a sun-dial, with a fly upon it, " painted curiously." In the Court Room * The Vintners' arms are, sable, a chevron between three ttflas argent. These arms were granted by Roger Legb, Claren- cieux, in 1447, and confirmed by Thos, BenoiU, Clarencieux, in the 22d of Henry VIII. K 2 132 LONDINIANA. are full-length portraits of Charles II., James II., Mary d'Este, Prince George of Denmark, and others, and an excellent head of Benjamin Kenton, Vintner, who was Master of this Company, in 1776, and who died in May, 1800, at the age of eighty-two, having bequeathed nearly £65,000 to diflferent charitable es- tabHshments and uses : of this, he left £2,000 to the general fund of the Vintner's Company and £2,500 for the rebuilding, &c. of their alms-houses at Mile end.* This Company enumerates among its founders, seven kings and queens, and among its members, many Lord Mayors and Sheriffs, commencing with the reign of Henry III. It is governed by a Master, three Wardens, and a Court of twenty-eight Assistants. After a splendid entertainment given by this Com- pany some years ago, the following jeu d'esprit ap- peared in a publication of the day : — " The Court of Aldermen at Vintners^ Hall. Port let me absorp, Said Alderman Thorp ; This claret's quite sour. Said Alderman Flower ; Port against claret. Said Alderman Garrett; ♦ Mr. Kenton was bom at the corner o£ Field Gate in White- chapel Road, where his mother kept a green-stall. By his industry and perseverance as pot-boy, waiter, and publican, though with no other education than what he received at u charity-shoul, h« realised a Ibilune of more than £100,000 LONmi^JlAXA. 183 I like either if good, Said Alderman Wood ; Sham-pag-nay, a spur 'tis, Said Alderman Curtis ; Champaigne, not Shampagnay, Said Alderman Magnay ; 'Tis true what he saith man, Said Alderman Waithman ; This port's of a flat kin. Said Alderman Atkin; The crust is quite thin, Said Alderman Glyn ; Its heat is prodigious, Said Alderman Bridges ; Some sherry forthwith. Said Alderman Smith ; I can't get it down. Said Alderman Brown ; Its as dead as a herring, Said Alderman Perring ; Its as cold as a church. Said Alderman Birch ; If so, then pray egg it. Said Alderman Hey gate; No mixture — wine solely. Said Alderman Scholey ; Some liqueurs from that box. Said Alderman Cox ; Ah ! some nice usquebaugh. Said Alderman Shaw ; 'Tis not in the dinner bills. Said Alderman Venables ; Now if this way some Nantz lay, Said Alderman Ansley; V'j4: londiniana. Ah ! Nantz is life's bunter, Said Alderman Hunter ; Then with Nantz keep our romps on, Said Alderman Thompson. BISHOPSGATE STREET. — MANSION, AND BIOGRA- PHICAL SKETCH, OF SIR PAUL PINDAR. On the west side of Bishopsgate Street without, near the London Hospital, is the Mansion formerly inhabited by Sir Paul Pindar, but now degraded into a public-house, bearing his head for its sign. The name of that gentleman stands eminently conspicuous in our mercantile annals. He was descended from an ancient and respectable family, and born at Welling- borough, in Northamptonshire, in the year 1566. Having received a good education, he was apprenticed at the age of seventeen, to an Italian merchant of London, who employed him in the latter years of his servitude as his factor at Venice. He afterwards con- tinued trading in that city, and the Levant, on his own account, for fifteen years, when, having acquired a plentiful fortune he returned to England. His probity, knowledge of languages, and great repute as a mer- chant, induced the Turkey Company strongly to recom- mend him to James the First, who, in consequence, in 1611, appointed him Ambassador to the Grand Seignor, and he remained nine years resident at Con- stantinople, to the great advantage of English com- merce. On his return, in 1620, King James proffered him the Lieutenancy of the Tower, but he declined that office; he was, however, prevailed on to become LONDINIANA. 135 one of the Farmers of the Customs, and whilst in that situation, he advanced considerable sums of money, both to James himself, and his successors, which were never afterwards repaid. He also furnished the crown with jewels, "to his infinite loss and prejudice;"* and assisted Charles the Second with gold, when at Oxford, in 1643 and 1644, " for transportation,'* as it is quaintly expressed, by his biographer, *' of the Queen and her children. "f Among the services rendered to his country by this gentleman, was the support which he gave to the manufacture of alum; which was introduced from the Papal dominions into Yorkshire, by one of his Italian friends, about the year 1608. The first works were set up at the expense of the crown, which retained the monopoly of this trade, until it was finally abolished by the Parliament in 1643, previously to which, Sir Paul had farmed the manufacture during twenty-eight years, at an annual rent of £12,000. He derived great sums from this monopoly, although his grant obliged him to supply all parts of England with alum at £20. per ton ; which was caly one-third of tiie price that had been formerly charged on its importa- tion from Italy. In the year 1639, the estate of Sir Paul Pindar, * Sir Paul Pindar brought from Turkey a large diamond, valued at £30,000, which James I, wished to obtain ou credit ; but the merchant wisely declined the contract, yet favoured his sovereign with the use of the diamond, on state or particular occasions. Charles the First afterwards became the purchaser. t Vide European Magazine, for April, 179T. 136 LONDINIANA. ** as cast up'' by his own cashiers, and consisting ** of ready money, allum, and good debts upon tallies and obligations from noblemen and others at court,'* was computed at the enormous sum of £215,600; yet, from the distractions of the times, the subsequent civil war, and the bad faith of many whom he had trusted, his losses were so great, and his affairs became so perplexed, that his executor, William Toomes, (who had long been his accountant and assistant,) found his expectations so entirely frustrated, that he committed suicide, in 1655, " and was found a felo de se^ Sir Paul Pindar died on the 2'3nd of August, 1650, at the advanced age of eighty-four, and was buried in St. Botolph's Church, Bishopsgate, to which he had been a considerable benefactor. His *' leaden coffin,'* Malcolm says, " may at this time, be seen by the curious, with a hole in it, through which the venj curious may possibly touch a part of his decayed body."* He was an inhabitant of that parish, as his epitaph informs us, twenty-six years ; and *' eminent for piety, charity, loyalty, and prudence." His Man- sion is still remarkable for its bow front, and ample extent of windows ; but it has been otherwise much * See "LoncUDiiim Redivivum," vol. i. p. 330. In the same work, are numerous extracts from the parish books, relating to the gifts and charities of this worthy man. In two instances, in 1637 and I64T, he is stated to have paid £,2. for a license, for three years, to eat flesh on fish days! The arms of Sir Paul, viz. a chevron between tljree Lions' heads, erased, ermine, crowned or, appear among the ornaments of the ceiling of his ancient dining-room. LONDI^s^ANA. 137 altered. At a little distance, in Half-Moon Alley, is an old structure, ornamented with figures, as repre- sented in the annexed print ; which is traditionally reported to have been the Keeper's Lodge, in the Park attached to Sir Paul's residence ; and mulberry trees, and other park-like vestiges in this neighbourhood, are still within memory. Whitelock says, " that Sir Paul Pindar is remem- bered to have laid out £19,000, of his own money, towards repairing St. Paul's Cathedral;'* and also, " that in 1649, he, and the other old commissioners of the Custom?, offered to advance £100,000 for the Parliament, provided a debt of £300,000 owing by the last King was secured to them ;" but that offer was not accepted.* BEN JONSON'S masque OF CHRISTMAS. — PLACES IN LONDON^ IN JAMES THE FIRST's REIGN. V This Masque " was presented at Court," in 1616. It is more valuable for the light which it affords, as to the costume exhibited by the characters introduced in the Christmas Mummeries of that period, than for any other quality. But this singularity attends it, that all the dramatis personce are denizens of the City. Old Gregory Christmas, the devisor of the Masque, and *' as good a Protestant as any in his parish," comes out of Pope's Head Alley ; Robin Cupid is *« a 'pren- tice in Love Lane, with a bugle-maker, that makes * Whitelock's " Memorials/' pp. 17 and 410. 138 LONDINT.ANA. of your bobs, and bird-bolts for ladies;" and Venu3, his mother, is a tyre-woman of Pudding Lane. The Masquers, viz. Mis-Rule, Carol, Minc'd Pie, Gambol, Post and Pair, New- Year's- Gift, Mumming, Wassel, Offering, and Baby-Cake, are the sons and daughters of Old Christmas, from whose Song, on presenting them to his audience, the following are gleanings :— ** And now to ye, who in place are to see. With roll and farthingale hooped ; I pray you know, though he want his bow, By the wings, that this is Cupid. And he leads on, though he now be gone. For that was only his rule : But now comes in, Tom o^ Bosom^s-Inn* And he presenteth Mis-rule. Which you may know, by the very show. Albeit you never ask it : For there you may see what his ensigns be. The rope, the cheese, and the basket. This Carol plays, and has been in his days A chirping boy and a kill-pot : Kit Cobler it is, I'm a father of his, And he dwells in the lane call'd Fill-pot, * Bosom's-Iim, a corruption from Blossom's Inn, as Stow informs us, " bath to Signe St. Lawrence the Deacon, in a bor- der of Blossoms or Flowers." — " Survey of London,'' p. 4S9, edit. 1618. This Ion still exists in St. Lawrence Lane, and has the sam^ si^u. LOXDIJ^IANA. 131) But who is this ?— O, my daughter Cis j Minc'd-pie, with her do not dally, On pain o' your life : she's an honest cook's wife. And comes out of Scalding-alky. ^ Next in the trace, comes Gambol in place; And to make my tale the shorter. My son Hercules, tane, out oi Distaff-lane, But an active man, and a porter. Now Post and Pair, old Christmas's heir. Doth make, and a gingling sally : And wot you who, 'tis one of my two Sons, card-makers in Fur-alley. Next in a trice, with his box and his dice, Mac-pipin my son, but younger. Brings Mumming in ; and the knave will win. For a' ^tis a costermonger. But New-year's gift of himself makes shift. To tell you what his name is : With orange on head, and his gingerbread, Clem. Waspe of Honey lane 'tis. This, I you tell, is our jolly Wassel, And for Twelfth-night more meet too : She works by the ell, and her name is Nell, And she dwells in Threadneedle-street too. f Sealding-alley, Stow says, was so called, as " nearest to the most ancient denomination thereof, which was 'Scalding House,' alias ' Scaltiing-wike,' and Scalding-lane, as ai)peareth by good records extant, of two hundred years continuance.'* Ibid. p. 470. It was near the present Mansion House. Fene- riteh-street was a short avenue, connecting Bucklersbury with St. Swithin's Lane. 140 LON DIN TANA. Then Offering, he, with his dish and his tree, That in every great house keepeth, Is by my son, young Little-worth, done, And in Penny rich street he sleepeth. Last, Baby cake, that an end doth make Of Christmas merry, merry vein-a, Is child Rolan, and a straight young man, Though he come out of Crooked-lane-Si.'^ CLOTHWORKERS' COMPANY, AND HALL. The Clothworker's Company, though a very ancient Guild, was not incorporated till the year ] 482, when Edward thelVth granted the members his letters patent, by the style of "= The Fraternity of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, of the Sheermen of Lon- don;" but this appellation was changed on their re-incorporation by Queen Elizabeth, to that of " The Master, Wardens, and Commonalty, of Free- men of the Art and Mystery of Clothworkers of the City of London." Elizabeth's Charter was confirmed by Charles the First, in the year 1634. This Com- pany is governed by a Master, four Wardens, and a Court of about forty Assistants. Its Members possess considerable estates, both in their own right, and in trust for charitable purposes, their annual expenditure for which is stated at about £1,500. Clothworkers' Hall is a small building, prin- cipally of red brick, on the east side of Mincing Lane, Fenchurch Street ; the front is ornamented with four fluted columns, crowned with Corinthian capitals, of stone, and supporting a frieze and cornice. The Hall LONDINIANA. 141 is a lofty apartment, wainscotted to the ceiling, which is richly stuccoed with compartments of fret- work, and other ornaments. The arms of England, of the City, and Company, and of various Masters and benefactors, are exhibited in large compartments, of richly-colom'ed glass, in the windows. The screen is of oak, with four pilasters of the Corinthian order, supporting an entablature, and compass pediment. At the upper end of the Hall are carved statues, as large as life, of James the First , and Charles the First, in their royal robes.* DECAPITATION OF LADY JANE GREY. The misfortunes and early fate of this accomplished lady, whose enforced assumption of a few days' sove- reignty was expiated upon a scaffold, still excites a commiserating sigh from the feeling heart. She was beheaded on the green within the Tower, on the 12th of February, 1554. Her Christian resignation and heroism, in the last moments of life, have been often alluded to by historians ; and that their eulogiuras are not overcharged, will be seen by the following extracts. In Howes' " Chronicle," is this passage : " This Lady being nothing at all abashed, neither with feare of her owne death, which then approached, neither • The Clothworkers' arms are, sable, a chevron, ermine, be^ tween two habicks, in chief, and a thistle in base, proper : crest, a ram, passant ; supporters, griffkis, spotted sable : motto, " My trust is in God alone.'^ The arms were granted by Thomas Benoilt, Clarencieux, in 1530 ; the crest and supporters by Robert Gooke, Clarencieux, in J 587. 142 LONDINIANA. with the sight of the dead carcase of her husband, when he was brought into the Chapell; came foortli, the Lieu- tenant leading her, with countenance nothing abashed, neither her eyes any thing moistened with teares, (al- though her gentlewomen, Elizabeth Tylney and Mistress Helen, wonderfully wept,) with a book in her hand, where- in she prayed untill she came to the said scaffold, whereon when she was mounted, she was beheaded." A still more particular account of her behaviour on the scaffold, is to be found in an exceedingly rare tract, (neither noticed by Ames, nor Herbert,) which, though without date, bears internal evidence of having been printed immediately subsequent to her decapi- tation. That portion of the tract regarding the Lady Jane is as follows : The Elide of the Lady Jane Dudley, daughter to the Duke of SuffolkCi upon the Scaffolde, at the houre of her death being the 12 day of Feb, ** Fyrst, when she was mounted on the scafFolde, she sayd to the people standinge thereabout; * Good people, I com hether to die, and by a lawe I am condemned to the same. The facte, indede, against the Queenes highnes was unlawful, and the consenting thereunto by me, but touching the procurement and desyre thereof by me, or on my halfe, I doo wash my hands thereof in in- nocencie, before God and the face of you, good christian people this day,' and therewith she wrung her handes in which she had her booke. Then she sayd, * I pray you all, good christian people to bear me wytnes that I dye a true christian woman, and that I looke to be saved by none other mene but only by the mercy of God, in the LONDINfANA. 14i:J merites of the blood of his onlye sonne Jesus Christe, and I confesse when I dyd know the word of God, I neglected the same and loved myselfe and the world, and therefore this plagge or punyshment is happely and worthely hap- pened unto me for my sinnes. And yet I thanke God of his goodnes that he hath thus geven me a tyme and respet to repent. And now, good people, while I am alyve, I pray you to assyst me with your prayers.' And then she knelyng downe, she turned to Fecknam, saying, * Shall I say this psalm ?' and he said, * Yea.' Then she said the psalm of * Misereri mei Deus,' in English, in most devout manner to thende. Then she stode up, and gave her mayde Mistres Tylney her gloves and handkercher, and her booke to Maistre Thomas Brydges, the lyveteuantes brother. Forthwith she untyed her gowne. The hangman went to her to have helped her off therewith, then she desyred him to let her alone, turning towardes the two jentlewomen, who helped her of therewith, and also her Frose paste * and neckecher, giving to her a fayre hand- kercher to knytte about her eyes. Then the hangman kneled downe, and asked her forgevenes, whome she for- gave most willingly. Then he willed her to stand upon the strawe, which doing, she saw the blocke. Then she sayd, * I pray thee dispatche me quickly.' Then she kneeled downe, saying, * Wil you take it of before I lay me downe ?' And the hangman answered her, * No, Madame.' She tyed the kercher about her eyes. Then feeling for the blocke, saide, * What shal I doo, where is it ?' One of the standers by guiding her thereunto, she layde her head downe upon the blocke, and stretched forth her body, and sayd, ' Lorde, into thy handes I com- raende my spirite.' And so she ended." • The particular kind of ornament designated by these words, is not at present known. 144 LONDl^^IAXA. The lines which this unfortunate lady is said to have scratched with a pin on the walls of her prison in the Tower ; viz. Non aliena putes homini quce obtingere j^ossunt, Sors hodierna mihi eras erit ilia tibi ; have been thus diversely translated : To mortars common fate thy mind resign, My lot to-day, to-morrow may be thine. Think not, O mortal, vainly gay, That thou from human woes art free ; The bitter cup I drink to-day. To-morrow may be drank by thee. Of the following lines, ascribed also to Lady Jane, the annexed translations have been given : '^ Deo juvante, nil noeet livor malus ; Et non juvante, niljuvat labor gravis : Post tenebraSf spero lucem. Whilst God assists us, envy bites in vain. If God forsake us, fruitless all our pain. I hope for light after the darkness. Harmless all malice, if our God be nigh ; Fruitless all pains, if he his help den}. Patient I pass these gloomy hours away. And wait the morning of eternal day ! * Vide Nicola.x'a recently published, aud very 'jnteresthig Life of Lady Jane Grey," p, 61. LONDINIANA. 145 CHRIST^S HOSPITAL, NEWGATE STREET. Christ's Hospital was originally a religious house of the Mendicant order of Grey Friars, or Friars Minors ; of whom, five priests and four laymen came from Italy, early in Henry the Third's reign, anno 1224. The priests settled at Canterbury, and founded a monastery there, the first of that order in England ; the others, proceeding to London, were, according to Stow, " for some short while lodged with the Friars' Preachers in Oldborne ;'' but shortly afterwards they obtained a mansion in Cornhill, which belonged to John Travers, who was then Sheriff; '-in which house they made themselves celles, and inhabited there for a certain time." But their numbers rapidly increasing, they removed, through the liberality of John Ewin, mercer, to " a voyd plot of ground, neere to Saint JVicholas'' Shambles,'^ (the present site of Christ's Hospital,) *' and erected there very beautiful build- ings." Ewin, besides the purchase of the ground, *' builded a great part at his own charge," and after- wards entered the order as a lay brother.* From the donations of the rich and powerful, a splendid Church, and other edifices, were progressively annexed to the original foundation, until it became one of the most extensive houses in London. An important addition was also mado by the executors of the far-famed Whittington, who, in 1429, founded a Library, which wasl09 feet in length, and 31 feet in breadth. This was • Stow's <' Survey," p. 589, eilit. 1618. VOL. II, L 146 LONDINIANA. completed in the following year, " and all seeled with wainscot, having twenty-eight deskes, and eight double settles of wainscot." Within three years afterwards, it was furnished with books, at a charge of £556 10s. ; of which, the founders" bare foure hundred pounds."* This Friary was surrendered to Henry the Vlllth, on the 12th of November, 1538 ; when its annual valua- tion was stated at £32. 19s. lOd, The Church was, for some years, used as a depository for French prize goods, and all its splendid monuments were, in con- sequence^ either defaced or destroyed. Stow% who has given a long list of the noble persons interred here, concludes his narration with these words : — " All these, and five times so many more, have beene buried there, whose monuments are wholly defaced; for there were nine tombes of alabaster and marble, environed with strikes of iron, in the quire, and one tomb in the body of the Church, also coped with iron, all pulled downe, besides sevenscore gravestones of marble, all sold for fiftie pounds, or thereabouts, by Sir Martin Bowes, goldsmith^ and alderman of London, of late time buried there." Among the numerous individuals of rank and afflu- ence who were deposited in the Church of the Grey Friars, were four Queens ; namely, Margaret, second consort of Edward I., 1317; Isabel, wife of Edward II., * Stow's '' Survey," p. 590. " The rest was borne by Doc- tor Thomas ^yincbel.sey, a friar there ; auJ for the writing out of D. Nic/iohts de Lira, bis Worke?, in two volumes, to bt> chained ih^xe, lOOmurkes.v Ibid. LONDINIANA. l47 who expiated a maturity of crime by an imprisonment of twenty-eight years, in Rising Castle, 1358; Joan of the Tower, Queen of Scots, her daughter, 1362 ; and Isabel, wife of the Baron William Fitzwarin, and some time Queen of the Isle of Man. Beatrix, Duchess of Bretagne, daughter of Henry III., and many potent noblemen, knights, and esquires, were also buried here, together with several Lord Mayors. The necessities of the poor, after the dissolution of the Monasteries, (from which for ages they had been accustomed to receive their daily alms-dole,) became more and more calamitous with every passing year, until, at length, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was found requisite to devise a general plan of relief by instituting the poor laws. Prior, however, to the in- troduction of that necessary measure, several impor- tant establishments had been founded to mitigate the sufferings of the indigent, to instruct the uneducated, and to check profligacy. The credit of those founda- tions has principally, and deservedly, been given to King Edward the Sixth ; yet it should not be forgot- ten, that the "stern Harry," his parent, was the first to begin this benign work of charity, by assigning the Church of the Grey Friars, and the Hospital of St. Bartholomew, in Smithfield, to the Mayor and Com- monalty of London, " for releeving the poore." This gift was publicly made known to the citizens, in a ser- mon preached by Bishop Ridley, at St. Paul's Cross, on January the 3d, 1546-7. Within a twelvemonth afterwards, an agreement was made between the same nioniiich and the City, by which ihe Church and 148 LOMDINIAXA. precincts of the Grey Friars ; the Hospital, Church, and appurtenances of St. Bartholemew ; together with tlie parishes of St. Nicholas in the Shambles, and St. Ewin in Newrgate Market, and so much of St. Sepulchre's parish as was within Newgate, were consolidated into a new parish, to be called Christ Church ; that appel- lation was to be given to the Church of the Grey Friars and Henry endowed it with lands for the main- tenance of divine service, reparations, &c. to the amount of 500 marks yearly.* King Henry died about a fortnight after the signing of that agreement; and it is probable that the confusion of the times, during the early years of his successor, prevented any immediate steps being taken to com- plete the monarch's intention. But at length the good Bishop Ridley (who had been translated from Roches- ter to London), in a sermon preached at Westminster before the young King Edward, so forcibly exhorted the rich and powerful to be '* merciful! to the poor," and to **travaile by some charitable way and meanes to comfort and relieve them," that the attentive sove- reign " did suddenly, and of himselfe, send to the said bishop, willing him not to depart until that he had spoken with him." Stow, who gives us this information, from the " very Report of Bishop Ridley, (wherein we may see v/hat * Stow's ''Survey," p. 69 i. *' Moreover, he gave them [the City] the Hospita]lof Bethelem, with the Laver of Brasse, in the Cloister^ by estimation, eighteenefootein length, and two foote and a halfe in depth." Ibid. p. 592, LON'DINIANA. 149 fruit followed upon his Sermon,) set downe by Mr. Richard Grafton," continues thus : ** And so soone as the King's Maiesty was at leisure, hee called for him, and caused him to come vnto him in a great gallery at Westminster, where (to his knowledge, and the King likewise told him so,) there was present no more persons than they two; and therefore made him to sit downe in one chaire, and hee himselfe in another, (which, as it seemed, even before the comming of the Bishop, there purposely set,) and caused the Bishop, maugrehis teeth, to be covered, and then entred [into] communication with him." * In the conversation that ensued, the King, with much earnestness, requested information as to the best means by which the duties inculcated in the Bishop's sermon could be performed. Ridley, who had had no idea of the purpose for which he was delayed, was so surprised at the question, and at the King's evident zeal, that •*hee could not well tell what to say;" but after a pause, he suggested, that the King should send a letter to the Lord Mayor, " wiUing him to call vnto him such assistants as he should think meete, to consult of this matter, for some order to be taken therein." Edward immediately adopted this advice, and made the Bishop " tarry untill the letter was written, and his hand and signet set thereto." He then commanded him, " not only to deliver the sayd letter himselfe, but also to signifie vnto the Maior, that it was the King's especial request, and expresse commandement, that the • Stow's "Survey," p. 593, edit. 1618. 150 LONDTNT.ANA. Maior should therein travell'; and so soon as he might conveniently, give him knowledge how far he had pro- ceeded therein." On the same night, the Bishop, who was much dehghted with his mission, had an interview with Sir Richard Dobbs, the then Mayor, *' who joy- ously received this letter, and agreed with all speed to forward the matter, for hee also favoured it very much." " And the next day, behig Monday, he desired the Bishop of London to dine with him, and against that time the Maior promised to send for such men as he thought meetest to talke of this matter, and so he did. He sent first for two Aldermen and six Commoners, and afterward more were appointed to the number of twenty-four. In the end, after sundry meetings, (for, by the raeanes and good diligence of the Bishop, it was well followed,) they agreed vpon a Booke, that they had devised, wherein, first* they considered on nine speciall kinds and sorts of poore people, and those they brought into three degrees'; 1. The Poore by Impotencie ; that is to say, the fatherless poore man's child ; the aged, blinde, and lame; the diseased per- son, by leprosie, dropsie, &c. 2. The Poore by Casualtie ; that is to say, the wounded soldier; the decayed house- holder; the visited with any grievous disease. 3. The Thriftlesse Poore; that is to say, the riotous, that con- sumeth all; the vagabond, that will abide in no place; the idle person, as strumpets and others, ** For these sorts of poore, three seuerall houses were prouided. First, for the Innocent and Fatherlesse, which is the Beggers Child, and is (indeed) the seed and breeder of beggary, they prouided the house that was the late Gray Friers in London, and called it by the name of LONUIXIANA. 151 Christs Hospitall, where poore children are trained vp in the knowledge of God, and some vertuous exercises, to the ouerthrow of beggary. " For the second degree, was proiiided the Hospitalls of S. Thomas in Southwarke, and Saint Bartholomew in West Smithfield, where are continually (at leastj 200 dis- eased persons, which are not only there lodged, and cured, but also fed and nourished. " For the third degree, they prouided Bridewell, where the vagabond and idle strumpet is chastised, and compelled to labour, to the ouerthrow of the vicious life of idle- nesse. " They prouided also for the honest decaied Hous- holder, that he should bee relieued at home at his house, and in the Parish where he dwelled, by a weekely reliefe and pension. And in like manner they prouided for the Lazer, to keepe him out of the Citie, from clapping of dislics and ringinf^ of Beh, to the great trouble of the Citizens, and also to the dangerous infection of many : that they should bee relieued at home at their houses, by seuerall pensions."* Such, then, Avas the interesting and important course of proceedings under which ChrisCs Hospital, and its coevals, became established. When the Report was made to the King, he gave a ready assent to the proposed plan, and granted a Charter of Incorporation to the City, under the title of " The Mayor, Common- alty, and Citizens of the City of London, Governors of the Possessions, Revenues, and Goods of the Hospitals of Edward the Sixth, King of England, of Christ, Bridewell, and St. Thomas the Jpostle,'^ &c. Stow, * Stow's " Survey," pp. 595, 59S, edit. 1618. 152 LONDINIANA. says, that a void place had been left in the patent for the insertion of the annual amount to which lands might be held in mortmain, or without licence, and that the King, " with his owne hand wrote this summe ; • 4000 raarkes by the year ;' and then sayd in the hearing of his Councell, * Lord ! I yeeld thee most hearty thanks, that thou hast given me life thus long to finish this ivork to the Glory of thy J^'^ame,' After which foundation established, he lived not above two daies ; whose Ufe would have been wished equall to the patriarches, if it had pleased God so to have prolonged it.'^ Besides the sites and appurtenances, respectively, of the above establishments, King Edward endowed them with lands, to the amount of £600 yearly, which had previously belonged to the decayed Hospital of the Savoy.* Since the time of that amiable Prince, his benevolent intentions have been nobly forwarded by the munifi- cence of private individuals, and Christ's and St. Thomas's Hospitals have, in particular, become great and flourishing institutions. The benefactions to rhrist's Hospital, alone, have been so considerable, and the value of its property so much increased, that its general and aggregate expenditure, of late years, may be averaged at upwards of £41,000 per annum : of that sum about £7,000 is paid in salaries to officers and servants in London, and at Hertford. At the latter • Vide the article Savoy, in the fourth volume of this work. LONDINIANA. 153 place there is a subordinate establishment for eighty girls, and all the youngest boys. Stow says, that *' the repairing of the Gray Friers for the poore fatherlesse children, began in the year 1552," and that almost 400 children were admitted in the month of November. " On Christmas-day," he adds, " in the afternoone, while the Lord Maior and Aldermen rode to Pauls, the children of Christs Hos- pitall stood from Saint Lawrence-lane end in Cheape, towards Pauls, all in one livery of russet cotton, 340 in number ; and at Eastt r next, they were in blue, at the Spittle, and so have continued ever since."* Among the earliest benefactors to this Hospital, were Sir William Chester, Knight and Alderman, and John Calthorp, Citizen and Draper, who were at the charge of building the walls adjoining St. Bartholomew's Hos- pital, and also "covered and vaulted the Towne-ditch, from Aldersgate to Newgate, which (before) was very noysome and contagious to the sayd Hospitall."f A * The dress of the Blue-coat boys is the nearest approach to the Monkish Costume which is now worn. What is called the coat, was the ancient tunic ; this is of a dark-blue cloth, fitted close to the body, but with Icose skirts. The under coat, or yellow, as it is technically termed, was the sleeveless, or under tunic of the Monastery. The girJle round the waist wjis like- wise a monastic appendage ; but the breeches are a subsequent addition. Yellow worsted stockings, a very small, round, flat cap, of black worsted, and a neck-band, complete the dress. t Stow's " Survey," p, 597. " This Hospitall being thus erected, and put into good order, there was one Richard Castell, alias Casteiler, shoemaker, dwelling in Westminster, a man of great trauaile and labour in his faculty with his owne hands, 154? LOXDINIANA. considerable part of the space thus gained, is now a play-ground, but is still called the Ditch. This Hospital suffered materially in the great fire of 1666, and the old Church was then destroyed. The present Church was designed and built by Sir Christo- pher Wren, between the years 1687 and 1705 ; and now serves for the united parishes of Christ Church and St. Leonard's, Foster-lane. It is of stone, and has a lofty columnated steeple at the west end, rising from a massive square tower : the interior, which consists of a nave and two aisles, is 1 1 4 feet in length, and 8 1 feet in breadth. On the north and south sides are very large galleries, and at the west end is another for the use of the scholars of Christ's Hospital, with a stately organ in the centre ; the v/hole interior is handsomely fitted up and wainscotted. The buildings of Christ's Hospital are of various periods ; but there is scarely any parts of the ancient friary remaining, except the cloisters and buttery. and such a one as was named The Cocke of JVestminster ^ because both Winter and Summer he was at his worke before foure of the clocke in the morning. This man thus truely and painefully labouring for his lining, God blessed and increased his labours so aboundantly, that he purchased lands and tenements in Westminster, to the yerely value of fortie and foure pounds. And hauing no child, with the consent of his wife (who suruiued him, and was a vertuous good woman) gaue the same lands wholly to Chrisls Hospitall aforesayd, to the reliefe of the Inno- cent and Fatherlesse Children, and for the succour of the misera- ble sore and sicke, harboured in the other Hospitals about London.'' Ibid. LONDINIANA. 155 After the great fire, the first important addition was the Mathematical School, which was founded by Charles the Second in 1672, for the instruction of forty boys in navigation : he also endowed it for seven years with £1000, and a perpetual annuity of £370. 10s. (payable out of the Exchequer), for edu- cating and placing out yearly ten boys in the sea- service. The rebuilding of the South front, which was effected by the munificent Sir Robert Clayton, at an expence of about £7000, was commenced in 1675. The old Hall, which stood over the west cloister, but has recently been pulled down, was erected by Sir John Frederick, knight and alderman, about the year 1680. The Writing School was begun in 1694, by Sir John Moore, knight and alderman, and finished " at his sole charge." It stands on the west side of the play-ground before-mentioned, and, from being supported on pillars, the under part, called the New Cloister, affords a retreat for the boys in bad weather : part of this space was inclosed in 1819, for the erec- tion of a Lavatory. In 1705, the Ward over the east cloister was rebuilt by Sir Francis Child, knight and alderman. The new Grammar School, which stands on the north side of the ditch play-ground, was built in 1795, partly with a sum of money bequeathed for that purpose by John Smith, Esq. Behind the latter is the Infirmary, which was erected in 1822. But the most magnificent and last built part of this Hospital is the new Hall, of which the first stone was laid by his late Royal Highness, Frederick Duke of York, on April the 28th, 1825. This noble fabric is 156 LONDINIA!^A. in the Tudor style of architecture, and was designed by, and erected under the superintendence of, John Shaw, Esq. the present architect to this estabhshment. It stands partly on the ancient wall of London, and partly on the foundations of the refectory of the Gray Friars. The southern or principal front faces New- gate-street, to which it will shortly be open, it being intended to remove the intervening houses, and inclose the area with an iron railing. This front is supported by buttresses, and has an octagon tower at each ex- tremity ; the summit is embattled, and ornamented with pinnacles ; the upper part of the western tower is to be appropriated as an observatory. On the ground story is an open arcade (187 feet in length, and 16^ feet in width), for the shelter and recreation of the boys in hot or wet weather ; a meeting-room for the Governors, the hospital wardrobe, &c. with the staircases and passages of communication. The Dining Hall, with its lobby and organ gallery, occupies the entire upper story, which is 187 feet long, 51 feet wide, and 47 feet high ; it is approached by a prin- cipal stone staircase at the east end, and by others in the octagon towers, and at the back, communicating with the kitchen. On the south side are nine large and handsome wmdows; at the west end is a dais, or stage, for the Governors ; and along the west and north sides are galleries for the accommodation of visitors during the Public suppers* and particular ceremonies, when • The public siippew are very interesting to strangers : they take place on every Sunday evening from Christnnas to Eiister. LONDINIAXA. 157 the relations of the children, and other company, are admitted on a proper introduction. At the east end is a screen ; and along the Hall, are five ranges of tables, in three divisions, for the boys, v^ho take their daily meals in this apartment : the present number is about 750.* * The Dietary of the boys is very simple ; anH, although in the instance of breakfast, it might doubtless be improved to a more comfortable meal, yet^ as a long experience has proved its general healthfulness, the Governors have been averse to change. The routine for a week is the routine of the year. For break- fast, bread alone, with beer, (but water is generally preferred by the boys,) is allowed ; for supper, bread and cheese, except on Sundays, when all have bread and butter. The dinners are as follow : Sundaj-, roast beef; Monday, milk-porridge, with bread and butter ; Tuesday, roast mutton ; Wednesday, rice- milk^ with bread and butter ; Thursday, boiled beef ; Friday, boiled mutton ; Saturday, pea-soup, with bread and butter. This arrangement has, at different times, exercised the gastro- nomic wit of the boys, but the most popular of their poetic pleasantries is the following : " Sunday, all saints, Monday, all souls, Tuesday, all trenchers, Wednesday, all bowls, Thursday, tough jack, Friday, no better, Saturday, pea- soup, with bread and butter. '^ The mode in which the boys take their meals, gives us a toler- able idea of the primitive manners of the cloister. They eat their meat off wooden trenchers, and lade their soup out of wooden bowls, with wooden spoons. Leather jacks are used to contain the beer, which is poured into small piggins for general circulation. 158 LONDINIANA. The arcade beneath the Hall, is built with blocks of Heytor granite, highly wrought; the remainder of the front is of Portland stone : the back-front and end walls are of brick : the roof is covered with lead. The basement story contains the kitchen, (which is Q7 feet in length, and 33 feet in width,) butteries, cellars, and other requisite appendages.* The elegance and good taste displayed in this Hall augur most favourably for the grandeur, solidity, and conveniency of the whole pile, when rebuilt according to the plans and designs, which, under the direction of the Governors, Mr. Shaw has prepared for that pur- pose. The old buildings of the Hospital had been altered, enlarged, and augmented, at difterent periods, without any regard to symmetry, or architectural ar- rangement ; they were also becoming ruinous and un- safe: in consequence of which, the Governors, in 1803, determined to rebuild the whole, as soon as a sufficient sum of money could be raised to accomplish the work. A part of the general revenues of the Hospital w^as therefore appropriated to the establishment of a building fund ; and with that, aided by a grant of £5000 from the Corporation of London, and many private benefactions, this grand undertaking has been * In the second volume of Britton and Pugin's " Illustrations of the Pulilic Buildings of London," is an elevation, with plans, of the Hall and basement floor of this Edifice. The numerous interesting plans, sections, views, and elevations of modern metropolitan buildings, contained iu that v. ork, render it one of the most Ust'ful that the fccicutific architect and amateur can possess. LONDINIANA. 159 commenced by the erection of the noble edifice de- scribed above. The scale upon which the new arrange- ments are designed, is for the accommodation of one thousand children. From 130 to 150 boys are admitted annually into this foundation, exclusive of 90 children whom the bequests of deceased benefactors^ have rendered it imperative to receive. The presentations are dis- tributed among the Governors according to a particular routine. " The boys are taught, to the utmost extent that is usual in other great schools, — reading, writing, arithmetic, all classical learning, and Hebrew : part in mathematics, and part in drawing. According to a recent regulation, all the boys proceed as far in the classics as their age and talent will allow. They all leave at fifteen, except those who are intended for the University, or the sea. " A sufficient number complete the classical course of education, to fill up the University exhibitions as they become vacant. About 200 are taught in the classics at Hertford, and are transferred to the London establish- ments as vacancies occur, through the senior boys leaving the school. " There are seven exhibitions or scholarships for Cam- bridge, and one for Oxford, belonging to this institution ; the value of which at Cambridge, is J, 60 ^Jtr annum; and at Pembroke Hall an additional exhibition from the College, making about ^£"100 for the four years, and £50 for the last three years ; to which may be added the Bachelor's and Master's Degrees, which are defrayed by the Hospital. The Oxford exhibitions are ^10 more, or £'70. The Governors discharge all fees of entrance. 160 LONDINIANA. 5C20 towards furnishing the room, j€io for books, and d'iO for clothes, making at least ^€"50 for the outfit. "* The government of Christ's Hospital is vested in the Lord Mayor and Aldeimen, and twelve of the Common Council, chosen by lot out of their own body ; who are assisted in the general management by such persons as have become Governors by benefac- tions of £400, or upwards ; but the immediate direction is vested in the Treasurer and a Committee, who, from time to time, report upon the state of the foundation to the General Courts. The arms of this Hospital are, argent, a cross gules, in the dexter chief, a dagger of the first {City of London) ; on a chief azure, between two fleurs-de-lis or, a rose argent. Among the Portraits of Founders, Presidents, and Benefactors, preserved here, is a half-length by Holbein, of Edward the Vltli, who is represented with a very fair and delicate countenance ; a ditto of Charles the Had, by Sir Peter Lely ; Jaraes the ILid. ; Sir Richard Dohbs, knight ; and a Mr. St. Amand, grandfather of James St. Amand, Esq., who, in August 1749, bequeathed it to the Hospital, together with the residue of his property, on condition that the said picture should never be alienated; but if that trust was violated, the bequest was then devised to the • Wilson's " Brief History of Christ's Hospital," p. 34. This little work contains many useful particulars of the internal econonoy of the Hospital, modes of admittance, and general re- gulations. LONDlNfANA. 161 University of Oxford. Strype has given the following inscription, as under the portrait of the first President : ** Sir Richard Dobbs, Knight, Maior, anno 1552. Chnsfs Hospital erected was, a passing deed of Pity, What time Sir Richard Dodds was Maior of this most famous City : Who careful was in Government, and furthered much the same; Also a Benefactor good, and joyed to see it Frame. Whose Picture here his Friends have put, to put each Wight in mind. To imitate his Vertuous Deeds, as God hath us assigned." Besides the numerous trusts which have been com- mitted to the Governors of this Hospital, for purposes immediately connected with the foundation itself, the management of several other extensive charities have been vested in them ; and particularly, that devised by William Hetherington, Esq., of an annual pension of £10 to 400 blind persons. AEROSTATION, — VINCENT LUNARDI. — ADAM AND EVE TEA-GARDENS. The first aerostatic experiment successfully made in England, was that by Vincent Lunardi, an Italian, .who came over to tliis country, as secretary to the Neapo- litan Ambassador, Prince Caramanico, in the year 1784. It was his intention to have ascended from the gardens of Chelsea Hospital, permission having been granted him by the King, and the Governor, Sir George Howard ; but that permission was afterwards with^ VOL, II. M 162 LONDINIANA. drawn, under a well founded apprehension, that, in case of failure, the Hospital might have been exposed to the insults of a mob.* Through the kindness of Sir Watkin Lewis, who, at that period, was Colonel of the City Artillery Com- pany, Lunardi was eventually accommodated with the use of the Artillery Ground, at Moorfields, on engag- ing to give one hundred guineas to the distressed family of Sir Bernard Turner. His balloon, which was spherical in form, and 32 1 feet in diameter, was composed of oiled silk, arranged in alternate stripes of blue and red. This immense globe, inflated with common air, was, for some time exhibited at the Lyceum ; but, from the base conduct of the then pro- prietor of the exhibition room, Lunardi was compelled to obtain assistance from the magistrates, to remove, by force, his machine and apparatus to the Artillery Ground. On Wednesday,' September the 15th, 1784, the day appointed for the ascent, every avenue leading to the spot was at an early hour crowded to excess, and • A Frenchman of the name of De Moret, determined to be beforehand with Lunardi in this, his first attempt, and accord- ingly appointed a day for bis ascent previous to that fixed upon by him, and near the same spot at a garden in Chelsea. Hloret attempted to inflate his balloon with rarified air, according to the mode which had been practised by Montgolfier, in France ; but, by some accident in the process, it sunk upon the fire ; and the populace, who regarded the whole as an imposture, rushing in, completely destroyed the machine, besides levelling the fences, and commilting other devastations throughout the whole neighbourhood. LONDINIANA. 163 Moorfields, then entirely open, was covered by a dense multitude. From feelings of alarm, however, lest the mob should break in, if the experiment proved unfavourable, there was little company upon the ground itself; but the Prince of Wales was present, and repeatedly expressed his wishes for the safety of Lunardi, and of Mr. Biggin, a gentleman of fortune, and science, who was to accompany him in his aerial voyage. The Prince was also particularly attentive to the process of inflating the balloon, which was done by inflammable air, {obtained by the action of sulphuric acid upon zinc and iron filings,) under the direction of the late eminent chemist. Dr. George Fordyce. Through the impatient clamour of the multitude, (the hour fixed for the ascent having long [elapsed,) the machine could not be completely filled, and when the daring aeronauts entered the gallery, which was at- tached to the net work, its buoyancy was found to be inadequate to carry up both individuals. Lunardi, therefore, determined to ascend without his companion, and at five minutes after two o'clock the ropes were cut, and the balloon rose majestically into the air, amidst the loudest acclamations of thousands and tens of thousands who witnessed the scene. " The effect," to employ the words of Lunardi himself, " was that of a miracle on the multitudes which surrounded the place, and they passed from incredulity and menace, into the most extravagant expressions of approbation and joy."* * Vide Lunardi -s " Account of the First Aerial Voyage i a England/' p. 30. m2 164 LONDINIANA. Wlieii at the elevation of about sixty or eighty feet, the balloon for a few seconds remained stationary, but on throwing out some ballast, it slowly ascended to an immense height; yet, the atmosphere being very clear, it was scarcely ever invisible to the eye. At half past three o'clock, Lunardi first descended in a corn- field, on the common at North Mimms, where he landed a cat, which, together with a dog and a pigeon, had been chosen to accompany him. After a short interval, he again rose into the air, and was slowly wafted towards Ware, in Hertfordshire, near which, at twenty minutes past four, he finally alighted in a spacious meadow. Some labourers, who were at work there, were so terrified at the machine, that no intreaties could prevail on them to approach it, not even when a young woman had courageously set the example, by taking hold of a cord which the aeronaut had thrown out. Assistance, however, was at hand, a crowd of people assembled from the neighbourhood, and, together with General Smith, and several other gentlemen, who had followed Lunardi on horseback from London, aided him to disembark, and to secure his balloon. This successful excursion induced Lunardi to make a second ascent, from the Artillery Ground, on the 16th of May, 1785, in a new, and still more magnifi- cent balloon than he had before used; but, in this instance, his good fortune partially forsook him : for, when at a great height in the air, the machine burst, and descended with vast rapidity. From the rent, however, being boniewhid below tiie upper hemisphere LOXDTNTANA. 165 of the balloon, it retained sufficient air to support an oblique course, until it fell within the Adam and Eve Tea-gardens, at the upper extremity of Tottenham- court-road. The aeronaut was only slightly injured. In Hogarth's March to Finchley, the soldiers are represented as halting for refreshment at the Adam and Eve ; but the house and gardens have been completely altered since the time of that artist, and several modern dwellings now occupy a part of the grounds. In former times, these premises formed the site of the ancient manor-place of TotenhalL 13RIDEWELL HOSPITAL, BRIDGE-STREET, BLACK- FRIARS. Bridewell was anciently a palace belonging to the Kings of England, where they frequently resided and held their courts ; it afterwards came into the posses- sion of the celebrated Cardinal Wolsey, upon whose downfall it again reverted to the crown. It was in this palace that Henry VIII. summoned to appear before him the heads of all the religious houses in England, and from those who refused to acknowledge his supre- macy, he extorted large sums of money. In 1522, that monarch rebuilt Biidewell in a most magnificent manner for the reception of Charles the Fifth, who, however, preferred to lodge in the house of the Black Friars, which was situated on the other side of the river Fleet, over which a temporary bridge was thrown, which passing through the City wall, formed a com- munication between that house and the palace, in which his suite were accommodated. In 1528, Car- 166 LONUINIANA. dinal Campeius '* was brought to y° kinges presence then living at Brydewel by y* cardinal of Yorke and was caryed in a chayer of Criraosin veluet borne between iiii persones, for he was not able to stand, and the cardynall of Yorke and he sat both on the ryght hand of the kinges throne, and there one Fraun- cisci secretary to cardinal Campeius made an eloquent cracion in the latin tongue :"* and the same King, ** caused al his nobilitie, Judges and counsaylors w* diners other persons to come to his palace of Bryde- well on sonday the viii day of Noueber at after none in his great chamber, and there" delivered a speech to them, concerning his marriage with Katharine of Arragon.f In the following year, Henry and his Queen resided here while the question of their mar- riage was pending at the Blackfriars; after which, taking a dislike to the place, he let it fall to decay ; in which state it remained until its appropriation, in the following reign, to charitable purposes. After the general suppression of the monasteries and other religious houses, London became filled with multitudes of dissolute and necessitous persons, who, before that period, had depended on ecclesiastical charity for their support. It therefore became neces- sary to adopt some plan for the correction of offenders, and to afford a refuge and relief to such as were in actual want. The first person who endeavoured to effect this laudable and charitable purpose, was the pious Bishop Ridley, who, in a letter to the King's * Hall's Chronicle, fol. 180. t Ibid. LONDINIANA. 167 Secretary, Sir William Cecyl, Knight, thus singularly, yet emphatically, pressed his suit : — " Good Mr. Cecyly I must be a suitor unto you in our Master Christ's Cause. I beseech you be good unto him. The Matter is, Sir: Alas! he hath lein too, too long abroad, as you do know, without Lodging, in the Streets of London, both hungry, naked and cold. Now, thanks be unto Almighty God, the Citizens are willing to refresh him, and to give him both Meat, Drink, and Cloathing and Firing; but, alas! Sir, they lack Lodging for him. For, in some one House, I dare say, they are fain to lodge three Families under one Roof. Sir, there is a wide, large, empty House of the King's Majesty, called Bridewelly that would wonderfully well serve to lodge Christ in, if he might find such good Friends in the Court to procure in his Cause. Surely, I have such a good Opinion 'in the King's Majesty, that if Christ had such faithful and hearty Friends, that would heartily speak for him, he should undoubtedly speed at the King's Majesty's Hands. Sir, I have promised my Brethren, the Citizens, to move you, because I do take you for one that feareth God, and would that Christ should lie no more abroad in the Street.'** In accordance with this, and other petitions, made by the citizens, that young and virtuous Prince, Ed- ward the Sixth, by a charter, bearing date the 26th of June, 1552, and which charter was afterwards con- firmed by Queen Mary, granted the Palace of Bride- well for the above purpose, and, amongst other things, endowed it with a great part of the revenues of the Savoy. In 1608, twelve large granaries were erected in this Hospital, at the expense of the City, capable * Strype's Slow's " London," vol. i, p, 179. 168 LONDINIAKA. of containing six thousand quarters of corn, and two storehouses for coals. In the ancient Chapel, which, says Strype, " was inlarged and beautified, at the proper Cost and Charge of the Governors and Inhabitants of this Precinct, in the year of our Lord 1G20," was a portrait of Edward the Sixth, under which were the following lines:^— " This Edward, of fair Memory the Sixt, In whom, with Greatness, Goodness was commixt, Gave this Bridetvell, a Palace in old times. For a Chastening House of vagrant crimes." In the plan of London attributed to Ralph Aggas, the buildings and gardens of this Hospital appear to ex- tend from their present site all the way to the Thames, on the bank of which, a large castellated mansion is represented. After the dreadful fire in 1666, by which almost the entire pile was destroyed, this Hospital was rebuilt in the maiyier represented in the annexed print, in two quadrangles, the principal of which fronted the Fleet River, now a vast barrel-like sewer under the middle of Bridge Street. The old hall still remains, but the committee-room, prisons, chapel, &c. have been built since the commencement of the present cen- tury, and thiC whole now forms only one large quad- rangle. The hall, which is upwards of one hundred feet in length, and forty in breadth, is lined with wainscotting, and furnished with long mahogany tables and forms, at which the governors dine annually in June. Over the fire-place, at the west end, is a large, and nearly square picture, by Holbein, of King Edward lokdiniana. 169 the Sixth, presenting his Charter for this Hospital to the Lord Mayor (Sir George Bowes) and Citizens of London. The figures of Goodrich, Bishop of Ely, Lord Chancellor ; Thomas, Earl of Pembroke, and five other great officers of state, are introduced in this piece, in which, also, is a head of Holbein himself. The other pictures exhibit full-lengths of Charles L, sitting ; James H. ; and the following Presidents, viz. Sir William Turner,1669; Sir Robert Gefferey, 1686; Sir William Withers, 1708, a very large equestrian picture, with St. Paul's in the back-ground; Sir Thomas Rawlinson, 1706; Sir Samuel Garrard, bart., 1710; William Benn, Esq., 1747; Sir Richard Glyn, bart., 1759; Sir James Sanderson, 1793; and Sir Richard Carr Glyn, bart., 1799 : the above dates shew the years of their respective mayoralties. In the Committee-room is a portrait of Richard Clark, Esq., the present venerable Chamberlain of the City, taken in 17S1. The Chapel is a plain edifice, having a gallery for the prisoners on the south and west sides, supported by Tuscan columns. The prisoners are chiefly vagrants and disorderly persons, including street-walkers : the sexes are kept separate, and em- ployed in working a tread-mill. FAUBERT'S PASSAGE. — RIDING ACADEMY. Faubert's Passage, which now forms a paved com- munication for foot passengers, between Regent-street and King-street, was, until the late improvements, a narrow thoroughfare for carriages, between the latter named place and Sivallow Streets It derives its name 170 LONDINIANA. from one Monsieur, or Major Faubert, who came over from Paris, in 1681, and established a Riding Academy there, on premises, which, prior to that time, had been the residence of the Countess of Bristol. Evelyn, in his Diary, mentions, that " the Council of the Royal Society had it recommended to them, to be Trustees and Visitors, or Supervisors, of the Academy, which Monsieur Faubert did hope to procure to be built by subscription of worthy gentlemen and noblemen, for the education of youth, and to lessen the vast expense the nation is at yearly by sending children into France to be taught military exercises. We thought good to give him all the encouragement our recommendation could procure." In another part of the same Diary, dated Decem- ber 18th, 1684, the following description is given, of the exercises practised at this Academy: — "I went with Lord Cornwallisto see the young gallants do their exercise, Mr. Faubert having newly rail'd-in a manage and fitted it for the Academy. There were the Dukes of Norfolk and Northumberland, Lord Newburgh, and a nephew of (Duras) Earle of Feversham. The ex- ercises were, — 1. Running at the ring; — 2. Flinging a javehn at a Moor's head ; — -3. Discharging a pistol at a mark ; — and, lastly. Taking up a gauntlet with the point of a sword ; all these perform'd in full speede. The Duke of Northumberland hardly miss'd of suc- ceeding in every one, a dozen times, as I think. The Duke of Norfolk did exceeding bravely. Lords New- burgh and Duras seem'd nothing so dextrous. Here I saw the difference of what y° French call ' belle homme LONDINIANA. 171 d cheval,* and ' ton homme d cheval;^ the Duke of Norfolk being the first, that is, rather a fine person on a horse ; the Duke of Northumberland being both in perfection ; namely, a graceful person, and excellent rider. But the Duke of Norfolk told me, he had not ben at this exercise these twelve yeares before. There were in the field y^ Prince of Denmark, and the Lord Landsdown, sonn of y^ Earle of Bath, who had been made a Count of y'' Empire last summer for his ser- vice before Vienna." From the above extracts, it appears, that Faubert's Riding Academy was as fashionable a lounge for the noblemen and gallants of that period, as Tattersals is at the present day. When Swallow Street was pulled down, to effect the grand improvements which have taken place in this part of the metropoHs , the greater part of this passage, including the Riding School, which had been converted into livery stables, shared the same fate, and but one of the original houses is now left standing. TEMPLE BAR. — BUTCHER ROW. Temple Bar divides the City of London from the liberty of Westminster: in ancient times, they were merely separated by a chain, or bar, placed across the street, which, from its immediate vicinity to the Tem- ple, acquired the appellation which it still bears. In after ages, this bar gave place to an erection of timber, raised across the street, with a narrow gateway under- neath, and an entrance on the south side to the house above. After the fire of London, Sir Christopher 172 L02JD1NIAXA. Wren erected the present edifice, which was com- menced in 1670, and finished in 1672. It is built of Portland stone, and rusticated, having a large flattened arch in the centre, and two small semicircular ones for foot passengers laterally. Over the gateway is an apartment, with a semicircular arched window on the eastern and western sides ; the whole is crowned with a sweeping pediment. On the west fafade are two niches, in which are placed statues of Charles the First, and Second, in Roman costume ; and over the key-stone of the centre archway, are the royal arms ; on the eai't, in similar niches, are statues of Queen Elizabeth and James the First. This gate is always closed, and opened with great formality, on state occa- sions ; and the King, according to civic etiquette, can- not enter the City, without first knocking, and asking permission of the Lord Mayor. On Temple Bar were formerly placed the heads of those persons who were decapitated for high treason : the last which was thus exhibited was that of Simon, Lord Lovat, who was executed on Tower Hill, for the rebellion of 1745. One of the iron poles, or spikes, on which they were placed, was only removed at the commencement of the present century. In Nichols's " Literary Anecdotes," is the following singular passage, relating to the head of Counsellor Layer, which had been thus fixed upon Temple Bar. Layer was executed for high treason, at Tyburn, on May the 17th, 1723, and died in the steady mainte- nance of his principles. Dr. Rawlinson was a non- juror, and a distinguished antiquary. He lived at LONDINIANA. 173 London Ifouse, Aldersgate Street, the ancient palace of the Bishops of London : — " When the head of Layer was blown off Temple Bar, it was picked up by a gentleman in the neighbourhood, [Mr. John Pearce, an attorney,] who shewed it to some friends at a public house, under the floor of which, I have been assured, it was buried. Dr. Rawlinson, meanwhile, having made inquiry after the head, with a wish to pur- chase it, was imposed on with another instead of Layer^s, which he preserved as a valuable relique, and directed it to be buried in his right hand." The Doctor died on the 6th of April, 1755, and was interred in St. Giles's Church, Oxford. The irregular buildings shewn in the annexed print, formed the lower part of Butcher Row, which, before the improvements made here, about thirty years ago, occupied most of the open space from opposite Ship- yard to the end of Picket Street.* The ground plot was that of a long, obtuse-angled triangle, of which the western line was formed by the vestry-room and alms-houses of St. Clement's : the sides and west end contained shops of various classes, the most respect- able of which were on the Strand side, opposite Thanet Place. Butcher Row, properly so called, originated in a flesh market, granted, in the 21st of Edward the 1st, to "Walter le Barbur, for the con- venience 0^ the foreign butchers, as they were termed. ♦ Picket Street was so called, from respect to Mr. Alderman Picket, Ihroii^ii wbose zealous exertions and perseverance the improvemeuli in this quarter were chiefly carried into cfTcct. 174 LONDINIANA. that is, of those persons who brought mep.t from the country, in carts, and sold it just without the bounds of the City liberties. They were at first stationed in stands, or shambles, as is yet common in many country places ; but before, and in Queen Elizabeth's reign, houses were built here, chiefly of wood and plaster, with over-hanging stories, and of various heights. These, in process of time, became inhabited by tradesmen and shopkeepers of many different descriptions :* one of them was the celebrated Betty's Chop-house. On the north side (at a short distance from Ship- yard) was a large mansion-like edifice, of five stories, which had latterly been divided into two houses, but was single in James the Pirst's reign, and then in- habited by Count Beaumont, the resident envoy from the French Court. Here, for one night, was lodged the famous Due de Sully, who, in ] 603, when Mar- quis de Rosny, had baen appointed ambassador extra- ordinary from Henry the Fourth, King of France, to * At a low broker's shop in the western part of Butcher Row, that^' wicked tvight, young Wylliam Henry Irelau?ide," pur- chased the two drawings, engraved in his father's publication of the spurious Shakspeare Manuscripts. Ooe of them, he trans- mogrified into something like a resemblance of the Warwick- shire Bard; and in the corners of the other design, he portrayed his armorial bearings with the initials W. S., a pair of scales, and a knife, and inserted the titles o several of his plays : from these altered subjects, it was most ^f/^-e/y decided by the 07««(eMr5 of Shaksperian Lore, that the first was a portraiture of the poet himself, in the part of Bassanio, and the other a elelineation of Shylock, the Jew, in the same drama. LOKDINIANA. - 175 congratulate King James on his accession to the English Throne. On that occasion the office of Master of the Ceremonies was first instituted, and given, with a yearly salary of £200, to Sir Lewis Lew- kenor;* who, accompanied by Count Beaumont, attended the Marquis on his landing at Dover. The arrangements for his reception were very deficient ; and yet more so for that of his return, which con- sisted of upwards of two hundred gentlemen. The following passage in the " Memoirs de Sully," renders the fact of his lodging here unquestionable : — "As for myself, I sup'd and lay at Beaumont's, and din'd there the next day, for so short a time had not been suffi- cient to procure and prepare me lodgings, until the Palace of Arundel, which was destin'd for me, could be got ready ; but this greatly embarrass'd my retinue, which could not all be lodgM in Beaumont's house, and, therefore, apartments were sought in the neigh- bourhood. "f The ambassador's own accommodations could not have been particularly commodious, as the rooms were small and low, — four, six, and eight upon * Lervkenor's Lane, in High Holborn, derived its name from this gentleman, who had a bouse and gardens on its site. -|- These were probably found in the several large Inns and Taverns which existed near the spot, of which the principal were, the Ship Tavern, the Swan, the Crown, the Robin Hood, the White Hartjthe Bear and Harrow,the Holy Lamb, and the Angel. The Angel Inn is still a large establishment, at the bottom of Wych Street, much frequented by travellers and professional gentlemen from the western counties. The situation of most of the others are known by the courts and alleys deriving names from them.; and vestiges of one or two still remain. 176 LOXDINIANA. a floor, and lit only by casement windows. The ceil- ings were traversed by large unwrought beams, in dif- ferent directions ; and a well stair-case, illumined only by a sky-light, run up the middle, in the rudest style. In front, were several roses and crowns, fleur-de-lis, dragons, and other ornaments, together with the date 1581, twice repeated. LUDGATE. — PRISON THOUGHTS. LuDGATE was anciently one of the principal gates of the city, and was situated at the western extremity of what was formerly denominated Bowyer^s Row, but is now called Ludgate Hill, between the present Lon- don Tavern and St. Martin's Church. Its first erection is attributed by Geoffery of Monmouth (but without any credible foundation,) to the British King Lud, about sixty-six years before the birth of Christ. In 1 21 7, it was either new built, or substantially repaired by the con- federated barons, (who were in arms ^inst King John,) with the'ruins of the stone houses of the Jews, which had been destroyed. In 1260, it was again repaired, and ornamented with statues of King Lud, and other sovereigns, which, " in the raigne of Ed- ward the Sixt," says Stow, " had their heads smitten off", and were otherwise defaced, by such as iudged every Image to bee an Idoll, and in the raigne of Queene Mary were repayred, as by setting new heads on their old bodies, &c." Early in Richard the Second's time, this gate was converted into a free prison ; but in process of time its privileges were violated, and it became a place of great oppression. LONDINIAN.A. 177 Batween the years 1454 and 1463, it was much en- larged, with a new building towards the south, for the comfort of the prisoners, by the liberality of Dame Agnes Forster, and the executors of Stephen, her husband ; in memory of which, the following Unes, in- scribed on copper, were placed against it : — * " Deuout soules that passe this way, for Stephen Forster, late Maior, heartily pray. And Dame Agiies his spouse, to God consecrate, that, of pitie, this house made of Londoners in Ludgate. So that for lodging and water, prisoners here nought pay, as their keepers shall all answereat dreadful doomes day. Ludgate was greatly damaged by the fire of 1 666 ; but it was afterwards repaired, and continued to be occupied as a prison until 1760, when it was pulled down, and the street thrown open. On the east side were effigies of King Lud and his two sons, in niches ; and on the west side was a statue of Queen Elizabeth : * The tradition concerning the origin of this benevolent ami charitable design, will be found in the Appendix to Strype's Stow ; it is also (he foundation of Rowley's Comedy, of " A Woman never Vext, or the Widow of Cornhill," which has lately been revived, with alterations by Planche. lu the first scene of the fifth act, is the following passage : 3Irs, S. Foster. But why remove the prisoners from Lud- gate ? Stephen Foster. To take the prison down, and build it new, With leads to walk on, chambers large and fair ; For when myself lay there, the noxious air Choked up my spirits. None but captives, wife, Can know what captives feel. VOL. II. N ] 78 LONDINIANA. the latter was afterwards fixed up against the east wall of St. Dunstan's Church, where it still remains. The other statues lie disregarded in the small adjoining church-yard. A quarto tract, intituled Prison Thoughts y by Thomas Browning, Citizen and Cook of London, a prisoner in Ludgate, *' where poor citizens are confined and starve amidst copies of their freedom," was published in that prison, by the author, in 1682. It is written both in prose and verse, and probably gave origin to Dr. Dodd's more elaborate work on the same subject. The fol- lowing is inserted as a specimen of the poetry : " On Patience. Patience is the Poor Man's Walk, Patience is the Dumb Man's Talk, Patience is the Lame Man's Thighs, Patience is the Blind Man's Eyes, Patience is the Poor Man's Ditty, Patience is the Exil'd Man's City, Patience is the Sick Man's Bed of Down, Patience is the Wise Man's Crown, Patience is the Live Man's Story, Patience is the Dead Man's Glory. When your Troubles do controul, In Patience then possess your Soul. DR. FRANKLIN. — DUKE STREET, LINCOLN*S-INN- FIELDS. This celebrated philosopher and statesman, on his first arrival in London, on Christmas-eve, 1724, en- LON DINT ANA. 179 gaged himself as a compositor, in the office of Mr. Palmer, a printer, in Bartholomew-close ; he continued there nearly a twelvemonth, and afterwards removed to Watts's printing-office, near Lincoln's-inn-fields, where he endeavoured to improve the habits of the workmen, in respect both to sobriety and industry. During his employment by Mr. Watts, he lodged at an Italian warehouse, in Duke Street, opposite to the Romish Chapel, kept by a widow lady and her daughter. The old lady was the daughter of a Protestant clergyman, but had been converted to the Catholic faith by her husband ; and being confined with the gout, Franklin was frequently permitted to spend the evenings with her. " Our supper," he says, (in his interesting "Memoirs*' of his own life,) "was only half an anchovy each, on a very little slice of bread and butter, and half a pint of ale between us : but the entertain- ment was in her conversation." In the garret of the same house lived an old maiden lady, who had for- merly been in a nunnery abroad, but the country not agreeing with her, she returned to England, where she adopted the conventual mode of life, as nearly as cir- cumstances would allow. She had resided many years in the same room, living on water gruel only, and using no fire but to boil it. Everyday a priest attended to hear her confession ; and when she was once asked, " hov/ she could possibly find so much employment for * In this office he was designated the " Water American,'- from always drinking vater, in preference to the strong beer drank by the otiier Vvorkmeii. N 2 182 I.ONDIXIANA. by a mayden, named Mary, vnto the which House and Sisters she left, (as was left to her by her parents) the ouer-sight and profites of a Crosse Ferrie, or trauerse ferrie ouer the TJmmeSy there kept before that any bridge was builded. This House of Sisters, was after, by Swithen, a noble lady,conuerted vnto aColledge of Priests, who in place of the Ferrie, builded a bridge of timber, and from time to time kept the same in good reparations j but lastly the same bridge was builded of stone, and then in the yeere 1106, was this church againe founded for Canons Regular, by William Pont de h Arch and William Daiinct/^ knights, Normans.* This account, which our chronicler professes to have had ** by report of Bartholomew Linsted, alias Fowler,"-|- the last prior of this foundation, has been questioned by Maitland and others, as incredible, and even the existence of a religious house on this spot prior to the Conquest has been denied. Yet, as Stow had both an opportunity to converse with Prior Lin- sted, who was Uving till the year 1553, and also to consult ancient records, which Maitland but seldom attended to, we may surely consider his account as en- titled to the better confidence. In regard to a Saxon establishment of religious, that fact is ascertained by the Domesday Book, which states, that Odo, Bishop of Baieux, " had one monastery, and one harbour in Southwark;" and be it recollected, that no other religious foundation in this district ever made claim to so early an origin as St. Mary's. * '' Survey of London,'' pr 773, edit. 1618. f Ibid. p. 48. LONDINIANA. 183 Soon after the Austin Canons were settled here, GifFard, Bishop of Winchester, became " a good be- nefactor," and enlarged the church. Henry the First granted to the Canons the Church of St. Margaret on the Hill, (which afterwards was converted into a Town Hall and Prison), and King Stephen gave them the stone house which had belonged to \Villiam Pont de I'Arch, at Dowgate. About the year 1207, this Priory was " burned, wherefore the Canons did found an hospitall neere vnto their priory, where they celebrated vntill the priory was repay red : which hospitall was after (by consent of Peter de la Roch, Bishop of Winchester) re- moued into the land of Anicius, Archdeacon of Surrey ^ in the year 1228, a place where the water was more plentiful!, and the ayre more wholsome, and was dedi- cated to Saint Thomas* The same bishop founded a large chapel within St. Saviour's Church, which was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and, eventually, be- came the parish church of the neighbourhood. In the reigns of Richard the Second, and his suc- cessor, Henry the Fourth, this church was rebuilt. Gower, the poet, whom Stow records as " an especial benefactor to that worke,"f was buried in the north aisle, where he had founded a chantry. This priory was surrendered to Henry the Eighth, on October the 27th, 1539, at which time its annual revenues were * Stow's <' Survey," p. 774. t Vide pp. 9-11, of the present volume, for an account of Gower's Monument. 182 LONDIXIANA. by a niayden, named Mary, vnto the which House and Sisters she left, (as was left to her by her parents) the ouer-sight and profites of a Crosse Ferrie, or trauerse ferrie ouer the TJiames^ there kept before that any bridge was builded. This House of Sisters, was after, by Swithen, a noble ]ady,conuerted vnto aColIedge of Priests, who in place of the Ferrie, builded a bridge of timber, and from time to time kept the same in good reparations ; but lastly the same bridge was builded of stone, and then in the yeere 1106, was this church againe founded for Canons Regular, by William Pont de Is Arch and William Bauncy^ knights, Normans* This account, which our chronicler professes to have had " by report of Bartholomew Linsted, alias Fowler,"t the last prior of this foundation, has been questioned by Maitland and others, as incredible, and even the existence of a religious house on this spot prior to the Conquest has been denied. Yet, as Stow had both an opportunity to converse with Prior Lin- sted, who was living till the year 1553, and also to consult ancient records, which Maitland but seldom attended to, we may surely consider his account as en- titled to the better confidence. In regard to a Saxon establishment of religious, that feet is ascertained by the Domesday Book, which states, that Odo, Bishop of Baieux, " had one monastery, and one harbour in Southvvark;" and be it recollected, that no other religious foundation in this district ever made claim to so early an origin as St. Mary's. * '^ Survey of London/^ pr 773, edit. 1618. f Ibid. n. 4S. LONDINIANA. 183 Soon after the Austin Canons were settled here, Giffard, Bishop of Winchester, became " a good be- nefactor," and enlarged the church. Henry the First granted to the Canons the Church of St. Margaret on the Hill, (which afterwards was converted into a Town Hall and Prison), and King Stephen gave them the stone house which had belonged to William Pont de I'Arch, at Dowgate. About the year 1207, this Priory was " burned, wherefore the Canons did found an hospitall neere vnto their priory, where they celebrated vntill the priory was repayred : which hospitall was after (by consent of Peter de la Roch, Bishop of JFinchesfer] re- moued into the land of Anicius, Archdeacon of Surrey ^ in the year 1228, a place where the water was more plentifull, and the ayre more wholsome, and was dedi- cated to Saint Thomas* The same bishop founded a laroje chapel within St. Saviour's Church, which was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and, eventually, be- came the parish church of the neighbourhood. In the reigns of Richard the Second, and his suc- cessor, Henry the Fourth, this church was rebuilt. Gower, the poet, whom Stow records as *' an especial benefactor to that worke,"t was buried in the north aisle, where he had founded a chantry. This priory was surrendered to Henry the Eighth, on October the 27th, 1539, at which time its annual revenues were * Stow's *' Survey,^' p. 774. t Vide pp. 9-11, of the present volume, for an account of Gower*s Monument. 184 LONDINIAXA. valued at £624. 6s. 6d., and Linsted, the then prior, had a pension assigned to bjmof£100 yearly. Shortly after, the inhabitants of the borough of Southvvark purchased the priory church of the King, *' Dr. Ste- phen Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, putting thereto his helping hand ;" and in the following year it was made parochial, by the designation of St. Saviour's, under an Act of Parliament which united the two pa- rishes of St. Mary Magdalen and St. Margaret at Hill, into one. This noble structure, which is one of the largest parish churches in the kingdom, is built in the con- ventual form, with a lofty tower rising from the inter- section of the nave and transept, and a spacious chapel dedicated to St. Mary, at the east end, at the back of the chancel. Some very appropriate repairs have been recently made under the direction of George Gwilt, esq., architect, both exteriorly and within the church. About two years ago, on the removal of the old and heavy altar screen, which was of wood, a richly decorated stone screen, designed in the pointed style, was discovered behind it, but much of the finer parts of the sculpture had been purposely cut away. We are indebted to Hollar for the spirited etching of this church, from which the annexed print has been copied. It was executed for Dugdale's " Monasticon,*' before the rude hand of spoliation had deprived the edifice of several of its most characteristic and vene- rable features. The large window in the transept has particularly suff^ered ; and it were highly to be wished that the same judicious mind which superintended the LONDINIANA. 185 late reparations, should be employed in restoring not only that window but the entire fabric to its original grandeur.* BANGOR HOUSE, SHOE LANE. In the curious map ascribed to Ralph Aggas, great part of the ground from Shoe Lane to Chancery Lane is represented as gardens, with trees and detached houses intermingled ; but long prior to that delineation, the Bishops of Bangor had a mansion, garden, &c. within that plot, as may be seen by the following statement in the catalogue of Patent Rolls : — 48 Ed. IIL Rex amortizarit Epo Bangoren', in successione unum Messuag : unam placeam terree, ac unam gardinum cum aliis sedificiis, in Shoe Lane, London." The situation of that messuage, place, and other buildings, which was immediately behind St. Andrew's Churchy and Court, and Thavie's Inn, is still indicated by the mean footway called Bangor Court. The last prelate who appears to have occupied the episcopal mansion, was Bishop Doulben, who having been previously Vicar of Hackney, contributed thirty pounds for repairing the causeway leading from Clapton and Hackney to Shoreditch, of which he informed his late parishioners, by a letter dated from Bangor House, in Shoe Lane, on the 11th of November, 1633. He * The Epitaph on Mr. Alderman Humble, inserted in vol. iii, p. 50, was written by Francis Quarles, the ingenious author of '* Emblems," " Divine Fancies,'' and other serious Poems. It i$ printed in his " Argalus and Partbenia,'^ 186 LOXDIXIANA. died at Bangor House, on the 27th of the same month, and was interred at Hackney, where there is a good bust of him in white marble. In 1647, tJie reversion of this messuage, with the attached " waste ground," containing 168 feet in length, and 144 in breadth, was purchased of the Trustees for the sale of Bishops' Lands, by Sir John Barkstead, knight, with intent to build there ; and in an Act of Parliament passed in 1657, against the erection of new buildings, an exemption is made in his favour, in respect to his having given more for his purchase than he otherwise would " but for his pur- pose of erecting messuages and tenements thereon, and in consideration of that place being both dangerous and noisome to the passengers and inhabitants near adjoining." Whether Sir John availed himself of this privilege, does not appear ; but the negative seems probable, as the estate reverted to the See of Bangor immediately on the Restoration in 1660. It was afterwards deserted as an episcopal residence, and having been leased out, some mean dwellings were built upon the grounds ; yet a garden, with lime trees, and a rookery, were re- maining about seventy years ago. Every vestige of the mansion itself was destroyed during the autumn of 1828 : it had been divided into numerous tenements, which were occupied by between two and three hun- dred persons, of the lowest classes of society, chiefly Irish. An octangular projection, of two stories, in front, was the almost only remain of its former con- sequence. The ground which has been cleared and LONDINIANA. 187 levelled, is now annexed to the southern church-yard of St. Andrew's. Opposite Bangor Court, on the east side of Shoe Lane, was an old house, called '^ Oldborne Uall,"' which, even in Stow's time, " was letten out in divers tenements." Its last remains were occupied a few years ago, as a coal shed and broker's shop. Almost all the buildings between that spot and Stone-cutter Street, have been very recently demolished, to make room for the new Fleet Market, which is now in a rapid course of erection. thavie's inn, holborn. Thavie's Inn, which appears to have been the most ancient of all the Inns of Court, or Chancery, was, in the reign of Edward the Third, the hospitium or mansion of John Thavy or Tavye, a citizen and armourer, and was rented of him by " Apprentices of the Law." On his decease, he bequeathed it, together with his own tenement and three shops, to Alice, his wife, directing the whole to be sold after her death ; the produce of the Inn to be appropriated to find a chaplain in St. Andrew's Church, to pray for the souls of himself, and his wife, and of all the faithful de- ceased, for ever ; and that of his House, &c. to the repairs of St. Andrew's Church.* In the reign of * Ths site of this property is now covered with ten respecta- ble houses, besides the small paved square near the Church, called St. Andrew's Court. Its present rental is about £800 per annum. When St. Andrew's Church was rebuilt in 1670, the expense is said to have been principally defrayed with the pro* ceeds of Thavie's beejuests. 188 LONDINIANA. Edward the Sixth, Thavie's or Davey's Inn, as it was then called, came into the possession of Gregory Nicholas, citizen and mercer, of whom it was pur- chased by the Benchers of Lincolns Inn, and consti- tuted one of the Inns of Chancery ; *' the Principals and Fellows of which," says Du2;dale, in his *' Origines Juridiciales," ** paid them the annual rent of iii 1. vi s. viii d. as an acknowledgement." Thavie's Inn remained in the possession of that Society till the year 1771, when the Lord Chief Justice Mansfield, and other feoffers, sold and conveyed it to Thomas Middleton, Esq., who resold it to Arthur Jones, Esq. from whom the titles of the present owners of the houses here are considered to be derived. Soon afterwards the old Inn was destroyed by fire. Its site is now occupied by a double range of brick build- ings, principally inhabited by professional gentlemen and hardware merchants from the towns of Sheffield and Birmingham.* ♦ Several lawsuits have been instituted in respect to the liability of Thavie's Inn to assessments for the Poor Rates; but the issue has been favourable to the inhabitants ; in memorial of which, the following inscription, on a small brass plate, hasl^en recently fixed up against the first house on the west side : — " Thavie's Inn, founded by John Thavie, Esquire, in the reign of Edward the Third ; Adjudged to be Extra-parochial, in the Court of King's Bench, Guildhall, in the Causes, Eraser against the Parish of St. Andrew, Holborn, on the 7th day of July, 1823, and, Marsden against the same Parish, on the 17(h day of Octo- ber, 1826. This Memorial of the antiquity and privileges of this Inn, was erected during the Treasurership of Francis Paget Watson, Esq. Anno Domini mdcccxxvii. Lex amicus est." LONDINIANA. 189 BILLINGSGATE. Billingsgate was anciently one of the water gates of the city, which Geoffrey of Monmouth, with his usual love of the fabulous, attributes to Belin, a King of Britain, about four hundred years before the birth of Christ ; and says, that " when he was dead, his body being burned, the Ashes, in a vessell of Brasse, were set upon a high pinnacle of stone ouer the same Gate." This place has for several centuries been used as a market to supply the metropolis with fish ; but it was first made a free port for that purpose by Act of Parliament in 1699. Stow says,* " it is a Port or Harborough for ships and boats, commonly arriving there with fish, both fresh and salt, shell fishes. Salt, Oranges, Onions, and other fruits and roots, Wheate, Rie, and Graine of diuers sorts for seruice of the City, and the parts of this Realme adjoining. This gate is now more frequented than of old time, when the Queenes Hith was used, as being appointed by the Kings of this Realme, to be the speciall or only Post for taking vp * '' Survey of London," p. 390. In the " Chrooicon" of John Brompton, is the following list of the Tolls to be given at " Bylyngesgate.'^ " If a small ship come up to Bylyngesgate, it shall give one halfpenny of toll: if a greater one which hath sails, one penny: if a small ship, or the hulk of a ship, come thereto, and shall lie there, it shall give four pence for the toll. For ships which are filled with wood, one log of wood shall be given as toll. In a week of bread toll shall be paid for three iiays ; the Lord's day, Tuesday, and Thursday." 190 LONDINIANA. of all such kind of Marchandises brought to this City by strangers and Forrenners ; because the Draw-bridge of timber at London Bridge, was then to be raised, or drawne up for passage of ships without tops thither." Very considerable improvements have been made at Billingspjate of late years, both in the quay or wharf, for unloading, and in the houses and stands of the market place. The management, also, both of the market and its frequenters, has been subjected to some excellent regulations, under the superintendence of the City authorities. The abusiveness of the Billingsgate fishvjromen is proverbial; coarse invective, and clamourous, rude scolding, having for ages been colloquially termed Billingsgate. In Lupton's " Country and City Car- bonadoed," is the following whimsical character of the Fisherv^omen. " These crying, wandering, and travelling creatures, carry their shops on their heads: and their store-house is ordinarily Billingsgate, or the Bridge-foot ; and their habitation Turn-again-lane. They set up every morning their trade afresh. They are easily set up and furnished ; get something, and spend it jovially and merrily. Five shillings a basket, and a good cry, is a large stock for one of them. They are merriest when all their ware is gone. In the morning they delight to have their shop full ; at even they desire to have it empty. Their shop's but little ; some two yards compass, yet it holds all sorts of fish, or herbs, or roots, strawberries, apples or plums, cucumbers, and such like ware. Nay, it is not destitute LONDINIAXA. 191 sometimes of nuts and oranges and lemons. They are free in all places, and pay nothing for shop rent, but only find repairs to it. If they drink out their whole stock, it's but pawning a petticoat in Long-lane, or themselves in Turn- bull-street, for to set up again. They change every day almost J for she that was this day for fish, may be to-mor- row for fruit, next day for herbs, another for roots ; so that you must hear them cry, before you know what they are furnished withal. When they have done their fair, they meet in mirth, singing, dancing, and in the middle (a parenthesis) they are scolding : but they do use to take and put up words, and end not till either their money, or wit, or credit, be clean spent out. Well, when in any evening they are not merry in a drinking-house, it is sus- pected that they have had bad return, or else have paid some old score, or else they are bankrupts. They are creatures soon up, and soon down." COUNCIL CHAMBER OF KING HENRY THE EIGHTH. In the first edition of Hall's " Chronicle," printed by Richard Grafton in 1-548, at the back of fol. cclxiij, is a very beautiful and spiritedly-executed wood-cut, representing Henry the Eighth presiding in Council. The King is seated upon his throne, in a chamber lined ■with tapestry, wrought into a regular pattern of alter- nate roses and fleurs-de-lis. The roof is of arched timber work, divided into square compartments, dia- gonally intersected, and having an ornamental pendant at each point of intersection. At the back of the throne, which has a fringed canopy, enriched with •festoons and tassels, are the royal arms and sup- porters of the Tudor family. 19i^ LONDINIANA. That most industrious inquirer into the History of Printing, the Rev. T. F. Dibdin, has published an exact facsimile of this '^ extraordinary specimen of art," in the third volume of his " Typographical Antiqui- ties," and from that copy the annexed print has been reduced. Mr. Dibdin imagines it to have been de- signed by Hans Holbein, and engraven by some foreign artist in Germany, or the Lov7 Countries. " The original drawing," he remarks, " if in being, must be invaluable, as there is every reason to think that the Portraits, as well as the architectural disposition of the room, are copies from originals." The impression in Hall's " Chronicle," when in large and fine condi- dition, is highly estimated by collectors. WARWICK HOUSE, CLOTH FAIR — LADY HOLLAND'S MOB. This mansion, w^hich, at the present time, has no pretensions to antiquity in outward appearance, is thought to have been built in Queen Elizabeth's reign ; and within memory the arms of England, as quartered in the time of that sovereign, were remaining in a window on the first floor. It was inhabited by Ro- bert, Earl of Warwick, the parliamentary general, to whose ancestor, Sir Robert Rich, knt. Chancellor of the Court of Augmentations, the Priory of St. Bartho- lomew, and its appurtenances, within the Great Close of St. Bartholomew's, had been sold by Henry the Eighth, in May 1544, for the sum of £1064. lis. 3d. At that period, Cloth Fair was within the precincts of LOXDINTANA. 193 the Great Close ; and as a right to continue St. Bar- tholomew's Fair, as when in possession of the prior and convent, was included in the grant, it devolved to the Earls of Warwick and Holland, the descendants of Sir Robert Rich : and hence the origin of that " up- roarious rabblement," called Lady Holland's Moh, which assembles to proclaim the fair, on the eve, or rather midnight of St. Bartholomew. Warwick House is now occupied by a cloth dealer. CARLISLE HOUSE, LAMBETH. Carlisle House was erected about the year 1 1 97, by Gilbert de Glanville, Bishop of Rochester, on a plot of ground which he had reserved for that purpose, when he exchanged the manor of Lambeth* for that of Darent, in Kent, with Hubert Walter, Archbishop of Canterbury : at which time it was called Rochester Place, and was used as an inn or lodging house by the Bishops of Rochester, whenever they came to London to attend parliament. In consequence of several dis- putes having arisen between the Archbishops of Can- terbury and the Bishops of Rochester, respecting the access to this house from the river, (which GJanville had not taken the precaution to secure), John de Shepey, who was bishop of the see in 1357, obtained leave from Islip, Archbishop of Canterbury, to erect a bridge at Stangate for the convenience of himself and family to land from the Thames. The last prelate of • Vide Account of Lambeth Palac*", vol. iii. p. 303. o 194 LONDINIi\NA. the see of Rochester, who resided at Carlisle House, was the unfortunate Bishop Fisher, who was beheaded on Tower Hill in 1535, for denying the king's supre- macy.* In 1540, Bishop Heath exchanged this house with Henry VHI. for the mansion of the prior of St. S within, adjoining Winchester Palace, Southwark, which monarch granted it to Robert Aldridge, Bishop of Carlisle, in exchange for that prelate's inn in the Strand, which was called Carlisle Place. ^ From that time the mansion obtained the name of Carlisle House ; yet it does not appear to have ever been inhabited by the bishops of that see, and from the successive altera- tions which it underwent in the following century, every trace of its original character was lost. After the abolition of the episcopacy, this estate was sold by the parliamentary trustees, in February 1647, to Mat- thew Hardy, for £220., but it reverted to the see of Carlisle at the Restoration. Since that period it has * In 1531, a most horrid murder was committed at Carlisle House, by Richard Roose, the bishop's cook: " by throwing some poison into a vessel replenished with yest or barme, stand- ing in the said bishop's kitchen, at his place in Lambeth Marsh, ha not only poisoned seventeen persois of his family, but also certain poor peo^de which resorted to the said bishop's place, and were there charitably fed ; two of whom died." For which deed, says Hall, he *' was boyled in Smythfeld, the Teneber Wednisday foUowyng, to therrible example of all other,'' Vide Hall's " Chronicle,'' xxivth Hen, viii. fol. cc, t This mansion was afterwards called Worcester House ; its site is now occupied by Beaufort Buildings. Vide Strype's Stow, vol.ii. p. 114, edit. 17=55. LONDINIANA. 195 been variously occupied, and been progressively used as a pottery, a tavern, a brothel, and a school. In the last occupation, Carlisle House maintained a distin- guished reputation for more than thirty years ; but during the present summer (1 828), it has been entirely pulled down, to make room for new dwellings between the Back Lane and Hercules Buildings. WHITE CONDUIT HOUSE, ISLINGTON. White Conduit House obtained its name from an ancient stone Conduit, standing at a little distance ou the north-vi^est side, which was built over a small spring, or head of water, that in times past supplied the Charter House, by means of leaden pipes extending to that foundation. The extreme pleasantness of this situation, has for many years rendered it a very attrac- tive spot to the London populace in their recreative excursions, and particularly on a Sunday afternoon in Summer, when the City *' pours forth its congregated throngs," and the labours of the week are forgotten in the exhilaration of sunshine and fresh air. The gardens are then crowded to an excess ; and on other fine evenings also, this place has many visitors ; some at- tracted by its bowling green and Dutch-pin grounds, and others by the harmony of a fine-toned organ, with occasional singing, which stands in the long room. The anonymous author of *' The Sunday Ramble^'''' which was first published in 1774, has given the fol- lowing description of the grounds : — " The garden is formed into several pleasing walks, prettily disposed; o 2 19G LOXDTNIAXA. at the end of the principal one is a painting, which serves to render it much longer in appearance than it really is ; and in the middle of the garden is a round fish-pond, encompassed with a great number of very genteel boxes for company, curiously cut into the hedges, and adorned with a variety of Flemish and other paintings ; there are hkewise two handsome tea- rooms, one over the other, as well as several inferior ones in the dwelling-house." The fish-pond men- ■ lioned in this extract was filled up about twenty years ago, and has been planted over ; the small paintings have been defaced or removed, and a new dancing and other rooms built, but in other respects the gardens are nearly the same as they then were. The " WTiite Conduit Loaves'' have long been famous, and before the great augmentation in the price of bread, during the Revolutionary war with France, they formed one of the regular " London Cries.'* From these gardens, Graham, the intrepid aeronaut, has several times ascended in his balloon, in the course of the last three years. As a means also of increasing their celebrity, they were opened in the summer of 1 827 as a BlinorVauxhall, with fireworks, rope-dancing, and other amusements ; but the magistrates having seri- ously objected to that display^ the scheme was obliged to be given up. Nearly a century has now passed since White Conduit House has maintained its fame ; yet, " such is the mutability of human affairs," as Scott's Baillie Mucklethrift would express it, that ere long we may rationally expect it to be numbered, like Dobnefs LONDIXIANA. 197 Bowling Greeny with the places that were.* Its plea- santness has of late years been much deteriorated by the new streets that have arisen on all the neighbour- ing fields ; and as the population increases, its umbra- geous walks, alcoves, and shady bowers, will doubtless become more valuable when covered with houses than by any other mode of occupation. The famous Duck- ing Pond, called the Basin, immediately without the gardens, to the north, has been filled up, and a new carriage road crosses its site. whetstone's park, lincoln's-inn-fields. The slip of ground between the north side of Lin- coln's Inn Fields and Holborn, now occupied by the avenue called Whetstone's Park, is in old deeds named '*Le Spencer's Lond;'' and a deep ditch which anciently separated it from those fields, and extended nearly to Drury Lane, had the appropriate designation of ** Spencer's DigJ*^ On this ground, which, from lying open and waste, was frequently the scene of low dissipation, houses were first erected, on the eastern part, by Mr. Whetstone, in Charles the Second's time, a vestryman of St. Giles's, and from him it obtained * Dohney's, or, more correctly, D'Aubigney^s, Boicling Green, is now occupied by a group of houses called Dobney's Place, near the bottom of Penton Street, and almost opposite to the Belvidere Tavern and Tea Gardens. About fifty years ago, equestrian performances were exhibited there, by a clever rider named Price, whilst similar feats were exhibited by a rival named Sampson, in a close behind the Old Hats, near Islington Turnpike. 198 LONDINIANA. the name of Whetstone's Park. On the other half, the houses were continued by a Mr. Philhps, and called Phillip's Rents. Several of the courts communicating with Holborn, were built about the same time, particular- ly Pargiter's Court, by a person of that name, but now called Feathers'' Court, from a neighbouring sign in Holborn. Gate Street, and Great and Little Turn- stiles, were, as their names imply, avenues leading into Lincoln's Inn Fields. Strype in his edition of Stow's " London," Anno 1723, says that " Whetstone Park, at the backside of Holborn, was once famous for its infamous and vicious inhabitants, which some years since were forced away;'* and Butler, our inimitable satirist, has thus alluded to its profligacy : — " And makes a brothel of a palace, Where harlots ply, as many tell us. Like brimstones in a Whetstone Alehouse.'* Dryden also, in his " Limberham," alludes to it as a well known harbouring place for dissolute females ; who, in reference to the Park, have, by another author, been designated " wanton does.^^ THE CHARTER HOUSE. The modern appellation of the Charter House is derived (or, more properly, corrupted) from the French Chartreuse, the name of the place where the first Car- thusian convent was founded in France, by Bruno, an austere canon of Cologne and Rheims. In 1349, a LONDINIANA. 199 destructive pestilence which had been raging through- out the whole of Europe and Asia, made its appearance in this metropolis, and caused the death of the greater part of its inhabitants, so that the burial grounds of the churches soon became entirely filled. At that crisis, Ralph Stratford, the then Bishop of London, purchased a piece of ground, consisting of three acres, called *' JVb Man's Land,'' near St. John's Hospital, at Cler- kenwell, which he consecrated for a burial place, and having enclosed it with a brick wall, erected a chapel, in which prayers for the souls of the deceased were offered up, and which was afterwards designated Par" don Church Hawe and Chapd. A short time afterwards Sir Walter de Manny* purchased an adjoining plot of ground, lying southward, called " Spittle Croft,'' con- taining thirteen acres and one rood, which was conse- crated for the like purpose, and was called the New Church Hawe. In this ground, in which he also erected a Chapel, it is recorded that upwards of 50,000 persons were interred. In 1360, it was the intention of Sir Walter de Manny to found a college for a dean and twelve secular priests, on this spot ; for which purpose, says Dugdale, he had obtained a bull from Pope Clement the Sixth : in this * This nobleman was a native of Hainault, and greatly dis- tinguished hjmself under Edward the Third, in his wars with the King of France. He came into England with his ro5al mistress, Philippa of Hainault, on her marriage with Edward the Third ; and died shortly after he had founded this convent. He was buried in the choir of the chapel, his remains being attended to the grave by the king and the whole court. 200 LONDINIAXA. benevolent design, however, he was at that time pre- vented by the French wars ; but in a few years after- wards, Michael de Northburgh, Bishop of London, having at his death bequeathed £2000 for founding a convent for monks of the Carthusian order , Sir Wal- ter obtained a grant from Edward III. in 1371, to found the said convent on his ground, called the Xew Church Hawe, in honour of God and the Virgin Mary, by the appellation of the " Salutation of the Mother of God." This establishment acquired the name of the Charter House, and the original endowments were so much augmented by benevolent persons, that at the time of its surrender to Henry the Eighth, on the 10th of June 1537, its clear annual revenues amounted to between six and seven hundred pounds. Prior, however, to that event, this convent was placed under the management of the King's commissioners, and considerable pains were taken, both by preaching and admonitory advice, to overcome the refractoriness of the monks, in regard to the succession and supre- macy. On the latter point the Carthusians were parti- cularly untractable, and their obduracy led to the most fatal consequences, for they were selected as the first victims of the law which constituted the King supreme head of the English church. John Howghton, Prior of the Charter House, with the Carthusian priors of Ax- holm and Belleval, the vicar of Isleworth, and a Brigetine monk of Sion, were all condemned for high treason in denying the supremacy (Lingard affirms, through Cromwell intimidating the jury), on the 29th of April 1535; and, five days afterwards, they " were LONDTNIANA. 201 drawrij hanged, and quartered at Tiborne, and their heads and quarters set on the gates of the citie, all save one quarter [that of Prior Houwhton] which was set on the Charter House at London."* Notwithstanding this appalling exhibition, the firmness of the Carthusians was not subdued, and on the 18th of the following- June, Mydlemore, the procurator, and two other monks of this house, named Exmew and Newdigate, were also hanged, disbowelled and dismembered at Tyburn, for the like offence. What adds to the ex- treme barbarity of these inflictions is, that the three last unfortunate sufferers were kept chained in an up- right position for thirteen days previously to the exe- cution of their sentence.f It is a trite remark, that persecution in religion renders obstinacy inflexible, — it proved so here, and although every kind of persuasive means were em- ployed to remove the scrupulous adherence of the monks to papal supremacy, those means were but par- tially successful, and in May 1537, ten more persons of this brotherhood were committed close prisoners to Newgate, " for their traitorous behaviour," in ques- tioning the King's assumption of the Pope's authority. When thus incarcerated, five of these miserable vic- tims perished within six weeks, for want of air, exer- cise, and sufficient food ; a similar fate progressively befel four others, and the hapless survivor, after lan- * Stow's " Chronicle," p. 963. t Smythe's " Historical Account of the Charter House/ quarto, p. 74. 202 LONDINIANA. guishing in prison above four years, was at length dis- patched by the hands of the executioner, on the 4th of November 1541. From a letter preserved in the British Museum,* which had been addressed to Cromwell, the vicar-ge- neral, in September 1535, by Jasper Fyloll, who, on the execution of PriorHowghton, had been placed here, both as a superintendent and a spy, we learn that the expenditure of the monks in alms-giving was most profuse, and that although " theyr rent of asyse," or clear annual revenue, *' amounted to £642. 4s." only, " the proctour hath accompted for Mli. a yere," the deficiency being "borne of the benevolence and charitye of the citie of London." The writer then proceeds : — " Nowe, they (the monks) not regarding this derthe, nether the increase of ther sup'fluous nomber, nether yet the decay of the said benevolence and charyte, wold have and hathe that same fare co'tynuall that then was usid, and wold have like plentye of brede, and ale, and fyshe, gevyn to strangers, in the butterye, and at the butterye door, and as large distributions of bread and ale, to all their sS'ants, and to vagabunds at the gate, as was then uside, which cannot be. Wherefor, under the favour of yo* w'shipe, hit semythe to be moche necessary to mynche eyther the nomber, or deyntye fare, and also, the sup'fluus gift of brede and ale. " These Charter-howse monks wold be callyd solytary, but to the cloyster doer ther be xxiiii keys, in the hands of xxiiii psons, and hit is lyk many letters unp'fytable, tales • Vide BibU Cot. Cleopatra, E. iv, LONDINIANA. and tydings, and su'tyme puse to cell comythe and goyth by reason thereof. Also to the buttrey dore there be xxii sundrye keys, in xxii men's hands, wherein symythe to be small husbandrye." In another letter to Cromwell from the same person, dated in October, he gives the following information as to the cause of the pertinacity of the Carthusians in refusing to submit to the king's wish : — " Hit ys no greete mVayle, thogh many of these m'nkes have heretofore offendid God and the kyng, by theyre fowle errowrs, for I have fownde in the p'^or and proctours cells, iii or iiii sondrye p'ntyde books from beyonde the see, of as fowle errors and heresyes as may be, and not one or ii books be new p'ntydj alone, but hundreds of them ; wherefore, by yo*r maistershypes favour, hit semythe to be more necessarye that these cells be better serchide, for I can p''ceve fewe of them, but they have greate pleasure in reding of such erronyus doctours, and littyl or none in reding of the Newe Testament, or in other good booke." When this foundation was surrendered to the king, as stated above, in June 1537, its yearly revenue, ac- cording to Dugdale, was £624. Os. 4d. ; its gross in- come, Speed says, was £736. 2s. 7d. William Traf- ford, the then prior, had a yearly pension of £20. allotted to him, and £5. per annum was allowed to each of the sixteen other monks who signed the deed of surrender.* * The following singular declaration is preserved in the Cot- tonian volume before referred to, (E, iv. p. 149), and whether the story of this Vision arose frona the wanderings of a naorbid 204 LONDINIANA. Shortly afterwards, the site and buildings of the Charter House were granted to John Brydges and Thomas Hales ; the former yeoman, and the latter imagination, or had been devised to sustain a falling cause, it appears to have furnished matter of serious charge against the monk Darley, the word Crimina having been written, in ano- ther hand, at the corner of the relation. It is necessary to re- collect, that the statutes of the Carthusians were so strict, that the brethren were interdicted all speech with each other, as well as with strangers, without a special license from their superior. *' V^ y^, I, Jo/m Barley, monke of y^ Charthouse, besyde Lon. had in my tyme liceoce to pray w^ a father of o*" religion, named Father Rahy, a very old man, in so moch, when he fell seke, and lay upon hys deth bed, and aft"" y* tyme he was anelede, and had recevyd all ye sacramens of the church, in y^ p^sens of all y^ Co'vent, and when all they war departed, I sayd unto bym, good Father Raby, yff y^ ded may come to y^ qwyke, I be- seech yow to c'm to me : and he said, yea, and mediately he dyed, ye same night which was in ye clensyng days last past, An°o XV. xxxiiii, an sens that I nev ded thynke upon him, to Saynt Jhon day ye Baptist last past. " Itm, y^ same day, at v of y^ cloke at aft'none, I beying in contemplac'on in o"" entre in o"" sell, sodanly he appered unto me in a monks habit, and said to me, why do ye not folow o"" Fa- ther? And I sayd, wherefor ? — he sayd, for he is inter in hevyn next unto angells ; and I said, wher be all o*" other fathers which died as well ? — he answer and said, y^y be well, but not so well as he — and y" I said to hym, father, how do yo' ? and he an- swered and said, well enought — and 1 said father, shall T pray for yow ? — and he said 1 am well enought, but prayer both for yo"' an other doith good — and so sudaniy vanyshed away. ^'Itm, upon Saturday next aft. at v of the clocke in ye momnyng, in y^ same place, in o"" entre, he appered to me agayn, wt a large whyte herd, and a whyte staf in his hands. LONDINIANA. 205 groom of the King's " hales [trammels, or nets] and tents," for their joint lives, in consideration of their safe keeping of the King's tents and pavilions which had been deposited there. Three years afterwards, they were again surrendered to the King, who immediately re-granted them to Sir Edward North, a statesman and lawyer,* who was raised to the peerage in the first year of Queen Mary, and who invested Brydges and Hales with an annuity of £10. per annum, in con- sideration of the surrender of all their claims upon the Chartreuse. His son, Roger, the second lord, sold this estate inMay,1565, for the sum of £2,500, to Thomas Howard, fourth Duke of Norfolk, with the exception of Rutland Court, and the adjoining houses, eastward, lyftynge it up, whereapon I was aftrn}'d, and than lenynge upon hys staff, sayd to me, I am sorry yt I lyved not to I had been a marter — and I said, 1 thinke y^^ be as well as y^was a m'ter — and be sayd, nay, Fox ; my lord of Rochester , and o"" Father, was next unto angells in hevyn: — and then I said, Father, what eles? — and then he answerd and sayd. the angells of peace dad 1am- ment and nnirne w^ owt mesur — and so vanyshed away. " Written by me, John DarJey, monk of yc Carthows, y^ xxvii day oS June, y^ yere of or Lord Good affor- said.^-" * Queen Elizabeth frequently paid visits to her courtiers, and twice honoured the Charter House with her presence, when it was in the possession of Sir Edward North. On the 19th of November, 1558, two days after her accession, she ** was brought," says Stow, " to the Charter-house, v^' here she stayed manydayes;'' and in the month of July, 1561, she sojourned there four days, even after Sir Edward had been dismissed from her Privy Council. ^6 LONDINTANA. into Goswell Street. That nobleman made the Char- ter House his chief residence ; and in 1570, after he had been confined in the Tower for nearly a twelve- month, on account of his secret correspondence, and projected match, with Mary Queen of Scots, he was suffered to return to it, under the free custody of Sir Henry Nevil, the plague having begun " to v/ax hot" in the above fortress. Whilst thus partially at liberty, he renewed his correspondence with the Queen of Scots, but his designs were betrayed, and within five weeks, he was again committed to the Tower : the cipher or key of his letters was found concealed under the roofing tiles of the Charter House. He was after- wards condemned for high treason, and was decapi- tated on Tower Hill, June the 22d, 1571. His estates, which had reverted to the crown, were subsequently restored by the Queen, to his descendants, and, in the division, this demesne was allotted to Lord Thomas Howard, of Walden, his second son, but the eldest by his second wife, Margaret, daughter of the Lord Chancellor Audley. On the entry into London of James the Firet, on the 7th of May, 1603, that sovereign, from especial respect to the Howard family, which had suffered so greatly in his mother's cause, visited Lord Thomas, at the Char- ter House, to which he was conducted in a splendid procession from Stamford Hill, through Islington. Being magnificently entertained by his noble host, he kept his court there four days ; prior to his departure, on the 11th of May, he conferred the honour of knight- hood upon upwards of eighty gentlemen ; and on the LONDINIANA. 207 23d of the following July, he created Lord Howard, Earl of Suffolk. We are now verging upon the time when the Char- ter House became the seat of the noble institution which still flourishes there, and was devised by the ever-to-be gratefully remembered, Thomas Sutton, Esq, for the " sustentation and relief of poore, aged, maimed, needy, or impotent people," and for the *' instructing, teaching, maintenance and education of poor children or scholars."* Mr. Sutton was fraternally descended from a Saxon family of the same name, and maternally, from the noble line of Stapleton, of whom Sir Miles Stapleton was one of the first Knights of the Order of the Garter. His father was Steward of the Courts belonging to the Corporation of Lincoln ; and he was born at Knaith, in that county, in the year 1531. Of his early life, little is known : he is supposed to have received his education at Eton and Cambridge ; and to have re- moved from the latter place in 1553, in which year he entered himself a student of Lincoln's Inn. Shortly afterwards, he left England on his travels, and prior to his return in 1562 visited Holland, France, Spain, and Italy. In those countries he acquired that know- ledge of commercial policy and different languages which so eminently contributed to his future affluence. On the recommendation of the Duke of Norfolk, he became Secretary to the Earl of Warwick ; by whose * Vide Letters Patent of King JameS; bearing date on the 22d of June, in his 9tb year, anno 1611. 208 LCNDINIAXA. influence, in February, 1569, upon the breaking out of the northern rebeUion, he was appointed Master General of the Ordnance in the North, for life ; and in the spring of 1573, he commanded one of the batteries employed in reducing Edinburgh Castle. Soon after- wards, he obtained a lease of the Manors of Gateshead and Wickham, near Newcastle, wherein several rich veins of coal were discovered, and these were worked so advantageously, that in a few years their owner was reputed to be worth £50,000. In 1582, he raarried Ehzabeth, widow of John Dudley, of Stoke Newington, Esq. ; at which time, his town residence was the ancient stone mansion at Broken Wharf, formerly pos- sessed by the Earls and Dukes of Norfolk. After his marriage, IMr. Sutton for many years devoted himself to mercantile affairs and pecuniary negociations, and the tradition of the Charter House is, that it was by his agency, King Philip's bills were returned protested from the bank of Genoa, by which the sailing of the Spanish Amiada was delayed for almost a year."* It is stated also, that he fitted out and commanded the bark Sutton, of seventy tons and thirty men, in the memorable year 1588 ; and that the same vessel afterwards captured for him a Spanish ship and cargo, valued at £20,000. * Sir Thomas Gresham has generally had the credit cf the ^Iful negociations which led to this result ; yet it is impossible that Sir Thomas could have been the agent, as his decease cc- cnrred in 1-579, which was several yerrs before the Spanish expedition was iu any forwardness. LONDINIANA. 209 In May, 1594, Mr. Sutton resigned his northern office of Master General of the Ordnance ; and during the remainder of his life, he chiefly directed his atten- tion, in respect to business, to the lending of money upon interest and mortgage ; by which pursuit, during the extravagant profusion of our nobility and gentry, in the early years of King James's reign, he became possessed of many estates, and greatly augmented his former riches. In these transactions, he has been accused of much usurious conduct, but there does not appear to be any valid evidence to support that charge. There is, however, abundant testimony to prove, that many artful and impudent demands were made upon his purse, and that he sustained great obliquy from refusing to comply with the insulting petitions which were continually preferred to him. As early as the year 1594, if not long previously, Mr. Sutton had resolved to devote a portion of his wealth to the foundation of an Hospital and Free-school; his arrangements for which were gradually matured, and probably extensively altered, after the decease of his lamented wife in June, 1602: that lady was em- balmed, and buried with great funeral pomp at Stoke Nev/ington, in the vault with her first husband. In the completion of his design, whether from a difficulty of arranging all the legal points necessary to give stability to his intended Hospital, or from what- ever other cause, there appears to have been an undue procrastination, of which Mr. Sutton was himself con- scious ; and Dr. Fuller says, that " he used often to repair to a private garden, where he poured forth his prayers VOL. II. p 210 LONDINIANA. to God, and was frequently overheard to use this ex- pression : — '* Lord, thou hast given me a large and liberal estate, give me also AN HEART TO make USE THEREOF."* At length, in the year 1609, Mr. Sutton obtained an Act of Parliament, empowering him to erect and esta- blish his Hospital and School at Hallingbury Bouchers, or Little Hallingbury, in Essex, a very healthful spot, which is still part of the Hospital estates. But he afterwards changed his mind, and treated with the Earl of Suffolk, for the purchase of the Charter House, which on the 9th of May, 1611 , was conveyed to him, by deed, for the sum of £13,000. The Earl's in- fluence with King James to obtain the necessary Char- ter of Incorporation, was, however, included in that price; and on the 22d of the following month, Mr. Sutton had the joyful satisfaction to receive the King's letters patent and license of mortmain, for the com- pletion of his long projected establishment. His scheme had many enemies, and he encountered much opposition from those (even among the great and mighty in the land) who avariciously sought to become the inheritors of his treasures. At that period, Mr. Sutton was sutfering from the usual infirmities of age, and on being soon afterwards seized with a slow fever, he hastened to complete the final arrangement of all his affairs. On the 30th of October, he nominated the Rev. John Hrtton, Vicar * Fuller's <( Church History," B. x. p. 66, LOXDTNIANA. 211 of Littlebury, in Essex, to be the first Master of the Hospital, (an office which he had himself intended to occupy, if health had so permitted,) and on the 1st of November he conveyed all the estates specified in the letters patent, to the sixteen governors named therein, in trust for the Hospital,* This munificent gift, which Fuller designates, " the master-piece of Protestant English charity," not only included the Charter House itself, but also upwards of twenty manors and lord- ships, with .many other valuable estates, in the counties of Essex, Lincoln, Wilts, Cambridge, and Middlesex. On the 28th of November, Mr, Sutton executed his last will, by which he distributed considerable re- maining property in various acts of benevolence and charity; and, besides numerous legacies to relations and friends, he bequeathed £1000 to the treasury of his Hospital, ** to begin their stock with, and to defend the rights of the house." He died a fortnight after, on the 12th of December, at his residence in Hack- ney, where his bowels were interred, and his body embalmed; but the latter, on the 28th of May, 1612, was conveyed in solemn pomp to Christ Church, Lon- don, and there deposited in a vault, until his tomb in the Charter House Chapel could be prepared to receive it. Newcomb, in his " Repertorium," says, that six thousand persons attended the funeral, and that the procession from Dr. Law's House, in Paternoster Row, where the corpse had been rested, to Christ Church, lasted six hours. The subsequent repast, which was * Smjthe's " Historical Account," p. 170. p 2 212 LOXDINIANA. given to the Company by his executors, at Stationers' Hall, cost £159. 9s. lOd.* Scarcely had Mr. Sutton's remains been consi^^ned to the sepulchre, when his nephew and heir-at-law, Simon Baxter, who had attended the funeral as chief mourner, laid claim to the inheritance of all that had been settled on the Hospital, and attempted by force to obtain possession of the Charter House. This last attempt was frustrated by the vigilance of the porter, Mr. Richard Bird, who had been a faithful servant to his uncle ; and the legal proceedings terminated alike vmsuccesfully for the claimant. From the Privy Coun- cil, to which Baxter had presented a petition, the case was referred to the King's Bench and Chancery Courts ; and after it had been drawn into a special ver- dict, and solemnly argued in the Exchequer Charaher, before the twelve Judges, it was unanimously decided in favour of the Hospital, and the Lord Chancellor ♦ Among the articles provided for this funeral entertainment, were 32 neat's-tongues, 40 stone of beef, 24 marrow-bones, and a lamb, 48 capons, 32 geese, 4 pheasants, 12 pheasant's pullets, 12 godwit«, 24 rabbits, 6 hearnshaws, 48 turkey chickens, 48 roast chickens, 18 house pidgeons, 72 field pidgeons, 36 quails, 48 ducklings, 160 eggs, 3 salmons, 4 congers, 10 turbots, 2 dories, 24 lobsters, 4 mullets, a firkin and keg of sturgeon, 3 bar- rels of pickled oysters, 16 gammons of bacon, 4 Westphalia gammons, 16 fried tongues, 16 chicken pies, 16 pasties, 16 made dishes of rice, 16 neat's-tongue pies, 16 custards, 16 dishes of bait, 1 quince pies, 16 orange pies, 16 forst back- meats, 16 gooseberry tarts, 8 redeare pies, 6 dishes of white bait, and 6 grand salads. — Malcolm's " LondiQium Redi\ivum," vol i. p. 410. LONDINIANA. SIS Ellesmere, gave his final decree, establishing its lega- lity, on the 1st of July 1613. This result, however, though strictly just, was, in some covert way, connected with a gift of £10,000 from the governors to King James, under the specious pretence of appropriating it, as a deed of charity, towards the repairs of Bervnck Bridge * Opposition now ceased, and the governors assembled to devise the necessary statutes for the management of the Hospital, and treatment of its inmates. But, in a few years, some cause of alarm arose, and they deemed it necessary to apply to parliament for an act of con- firmation. This, on a second application, was obtained * The letter recommending this appropriation, was signed by Abbot, Archbishop of Canterbury,, and Andrews, Bishop of Ely, " Supervisors of the last will of Mr. Sutton," on the 26th of June 1613; the decree was given on the 1st of July. King James, In a letter under the Privy Seal, on the 8th of July, acknow- ledges himself " well pleased to accept thereof," and on the lOth of July, the tally was struck in the Exchequer for the receipt of the £10,000. That sum was afterwards inserted among the free gifts and benevolences, under the head of" Money extraor- dinary', raised since his Majest>''s coming to the crown." Mal- colm gives the following summary in respect to the property bequeathed in Mr. Sutton's will. He left £12,110. 17s. 8d. ia legacies, and near £4,000 was found in his chest. His gold chain weighed 54 ounces, and was valued at £162. His damask gown, faced with wrought velvet, and set with buttons, was appraised at £10; his jewels at £59, and his plate at £218. 6s. 4d. The total expenses of his funeral amounted to £2,228. 10s. 3d., and his executors had received from the time of his decease to 1620, £45,163. 9s. 9d.— " Lond. Redivivum," vol. i.p. 413. 214 LOXUINIANA. in the early part of 1629, and the future stability and permanence of the foundation was thus effectually secured. The Charter House presents an irregular mass of buildings, erected at various periods, with little but their conveniency to recommend them. Some im- provements, however, have recently been made, and a new and suitable range of dwellings are now raising for the accommodation of the pensioners, their old apartments having fallen into decay. The Great Hall. which is connected with the old refectory and cloisters of the lay brothers of the Carthusian monks, appears to have been built in Henry the Eighth's reign, and to have been fitted up by the Duke of Norfolk, in that of his successor, for a banquetting room. On the east side is a large fire-place, surmounted by a richly-carved chimney piece, having in the centre the Howard arms ; above it is a gallery. At the north end is an oaken screen, with fluted columns of the Composite order, supporting a spacious music gallery, ornamented in front with caryatides crowned with fruit. An excel- lent portrait of Mr. Sutton, seated, and holding a plan of the Charter House in his right hand, is suspended above the dais at the south end ; and on the west side are three mulUoned windows, in one of which is a large square compartment, filled with fragments of stained glass, representing a conflict on a bridge, a ship, one or two coats of arms, and portions of other objects. In the middle of the roof, which is crossed by large beams, resting on corbel brackets, is the lan- tern, as usual in old halls. LONDINTz^NA. 9A5 In the Chapel, which is of brick, and divided inte- riorly into two aisles, by Tuscan columns, is an organ gallery, elaborately carved with numerous heteroge- neous ornaments, in the style of James the First's time. Here, at the north-east corner, in a most inappropriate situation in respect to light, is the superb and admi- rably-wrought Monument of the Founder. It was executed by Nicholas Johnson, Edmund Kinsman, and Nicholas Stone, ** citizens and free-masons of London," who, on the 24th of November, 1615, gave their receipt for £100, as the last payment of the sum of £400, for which they had contracted to penbrm this work. This monument, which is twenty-live feet in height, and thirteen in breadth, consists, in the lower part, of a rich canopy of the Composite order, sur- mounting a recessed tomb, or pedeslal, whereon lies the effigies of the deceased. The hands are in the attitude of prayer; he wears a plaited ruff, and a black gown, furred ; and his beard and hair are grey. At the back of the recess, stand two military figures, in habits of his age, supporting an inscribed tablet, over which are small figures of Time, and a Genii, sitting near a skull and hour-glass : the Inscription is as follows : — " Here lieth buried the body of Thomas Sutton, late of Castle-Camps, in the County of Cambridge, Esquire; at whose only Costs and Charges this Hospital was founded, and endowed with large Possessions for the relief of Poor Men and Children. He was a Gentleman, born at Knaith, in the County of Lincoln, of worthy and honest Parentage He lived to the age of Seventy nine years, and deceased the 1 2th of December, leil." 216 LOXBIXIAXA. Above the cornice of this division, is a finely sculptured bas-relief, in which above fifty small whole- length figures are introduced, sitting and standing around a Preacher ; at the sides are Faith and Hope, and two boys, expressive of Rest and Labour. Over the second cornice, in the centre, are the arms, crest, and mantling of Mr. Sutton, viz : or, on a chevron gules, three crescents of the first, between three amulets of the last ; crest, a Talbot's head : at the sides are small statues of Peace and Plenty. The whole is surmounted by a figure of Charity, elevated upon a pedestal; on each side of which is a Genii, seated, with a trumpet in one hand, and the other placed upon a skull. This monument is inscribed, *' Sacred to the Glory of God^ in grateful Memory of Thomas Sutton, Esquire.''* Among the other sepulchral memorials, is a bust of John Law, Esq., a Procurator of the Arches, and one of Mr. Sutton's executors, ob. 1641 ; a kneeling figure of Francis Beaumont, Esq., the 4th Master of the Hos- pital, who was buried in the vault under the founder's tomb, ob. 1624; and inscribed tablets for Thomas Walker, LL.D., who was schoolmaster here forty-nine years, ob. 1728 ; Andrew Tooke, A. M., his successor, the translator of Forney's "Pantheon," ob. 1731; and Dr. John Christopher Pepusch, the celebrated * Mr. Sutton's body was deposited in the vault whicb had been prepared for it in this chapel (and which cost £9. 19s. lOd.) in March, 1616-17. It was brought from Christ Church, by the pensioners, by torch-light. On this occasion, £4. 6s. 8d. was expended for bread, biscuit, conafits, marmalade, suckett, jelly, figs, raisins, and wines. LONDINIANA. 21' musician, who was organist in this chapel, ob. July the 20th, 1752 ; aged eighty-five years. In the piazza, fronting the chapel, is a large and handsome apartment, called Brooke HalU which is traditionally said to have been occupied (after the Restoration, and with leave of the governors) by Mr. Robert Brooke, a former schoolmaster, who had been expelled during the Parliamentary ascendancy in 1643, for refusing to subscribe to the solemn league and covenant. His portrait, which is on pannel, and sus- pended over the fire-place, represents him as in the act of reading ; and on the table before him, are various in- signia of the scholastic art ; at the sides, are the words, ^^And gladly would he learn, and gladly teach, 1624." The Master's house is entered from an rrchvvay, and includes a capacious suit of apartments, and a large gallery. Among them is the Governor's Room, which is very splendidly fitted up, and approached by a vast staircase of the Elizabethan age, most elaborately carved with a profusion of minute ornaments. In this room is an elegant chimney-piece of the Corinthian order, surmounted by the founder's crest, and between the pillars is the venerable picture of Mr. Sutton, aetalis 79, anno 1611, from which Vertae made his engra- ving for Dr. Bearcroft's History of this Foundation : the frame is enriched with emblematical carvings, finely executed, of aged men, boys consulting globes, mathematical instruments, scrolls, and the Sutton arms. The other pictures comprise whole lengths of Charles the Second ; Gilbert Sheldon, Archbishop of Canterbury, sitting ; William, Earl of Craven, in ar- mour, the romantic admirer of the Empress Palatine ; 218 LOXDINIANA. George \^illiers, second Duke of Buckingham ; George Talbot, Duke of Shrewsbury ; and the ill-fated Duke of Monmouth : and half lengths of the Lord Chan- cellor Shaftesbury, and Dr. Thomas Burnet ; the latter, which was executed by Sir Godfrey Kneller, the doc- tor's friend, is very highly finished. The old Court Room claims attention, as being one of the very few apartments now remaining in London, of Queen Elizabeth's time ; but the emblazonmgs of the armorial insignia, which formerly enlivened the stuccoed panelling of the ceiling, have been obliterated by white-wash ; the Duke of Norfolk's motto, " Sola virtus iiivicta,'^ is inscribed upon several parts of the borders. The walls are hung with tapestry, but in many places the colours are faded, almost to oblitera- tion. Here is a stately architectural chimney-piece, the basement Tuscan, the upper part Ionic, lavishly enriched with gilding and painting on pannels, &c. containing the figures of Mars and Blinerva ; Faith, Hop?, and Charity; and representations of the Annun- ciation and Last Supper : the arms of Mr. Sutton, and of James the First, have also been introduced ; but these are of a posterior age to the other parts. This room is now usod only for the celebration of the Jlnniversary of the Foundation, which is kept on the 12th of December; on this occasion, among other joyous ditties, is always sung the old Carthusian melody, terminating in full chorus, with this verse : — "Then blessed be the memory Of good old TJiomas Sutton ; Who gave us lodging — learning. And he gave us beef and mutton.'* LONDINIANA. 219 Adjoining to the above room is the Library, which was founded with the collection of Daniel Wray, Esq. Deputy Teller of the Exchequer, who died in 1783, at the advanced age of eighty-two years. He left his books to be disposed of by his widow, who, knowing his attachment to the Charter House, in which he had been educated, offered them on very reasonable terms to the governors, who cheerfully purchased them. Over the fire-place is a good portrait of Mr. Wray, copied by Powell, from a picture by Dance. The Governors of this Foundation, including the Master of the Charter House, who is always one by virtue of his office, are sixteen in number, and in them is vested the entire direction of all its concerns, of whatever kind. They form a body-corporate, and on every vacancy, another person is chosen to succeed by the majority. At present, the King is at their head, with the Archbishops of Canterbury and York, and the others are some of the first noblemen in the land : all have an equal right to present scholars and pensioners in rotation. The principal Officers, are the master, preacher, master of the school, registrar and steward of the courts, receiver, auditor, reader and librarian, writing-master, physician, surgeon, apothecary, organ- ist, manciple, and surveyor. The entire internal economy of the establishment is vested in the Master : the manciple, or house steward, provides the diet of the hospital, for which he is *' to pay in ready money. ^^ Eighty Pensioners and forty-two Scholars are sup- ported on this establishment. The former, according to the original statutes devised by Mr. Sutton's executors. 2S0 LOXDINIANA. should be " gentlemen by descent, and in poverty ; soldiers that have born arms by sea or land ; mer- chants decayed by piracy, or shipwreck, or servants in houshold to the King and Queen's Majesty." But these limitations were rescinded in April 1642, upon the ground that the Letters Patent of King James *' authorised the erection of the Hospital for « poor, aged, maimed, needy, or impotent people' in general, without any distinction whatever."* In practice, it has been known that improper persons have occasion- ally been presented, and even "cast serving-men"f have been admitted into the Institution, although very contrary to the intentions of its founder. But this last abuse was checked by a resolution of the governors, proposed about thirty years ago, by Lord Hawkesbury, (first Earl of Liverpool,) who had been a Scholar at the Charter House. Every pensioner has a separate apartment, and proper attendance ; he is also amply dieted at the expense of the Hospital, and allowed twenty pounds yearly, for wearing apparel and other necessaries. By the general regulations, no person can be admitted under the age of fifty years, unless maimed in war. It is but seldom, however, that any pensioner is presented at such an early age ; and an entire renovation of this class of the Hospital inhabit- ants is averaged to take place in every ten or twelve years. Every pensioner admitted, must, by a recent regulation, have been a housekeeper. * Smythe's " Historical Account," p. 253. f Vide ** Letter to King James," from Sir Francis Bacon, ibid. p. 212. LONDINIANA. 221 Boys are admitted into the School at any age between ten and fifteen years, but cannot remain on the establishment above eight years. They are in- structed in writingj, arithmetic, and every branch of classical learning ; and for those who complete the usual course of education here, and are properly qualified, twenty-nine exhibitions, of £80 per annum each, are provided at the two Universities.* There are also, eleven Ecclesiastical Preferments in the gift of the Governors, which, according to the statutes, " should be conferred upon the Scholars brought up within the Hospitall." By a most judicious and im- portant regulation, introduced by the late Dr. Matthew Raine, Schoolmaster, and which ought to be followed in every seminary throughout the kingdom, every scholar is provided with a separate bed. The grounds, which extend from the Hospital build- ings to Wilderness Row and Goswell Street, sre variously appropriated. The Greeny on the north side of which is the new School, is a square plot, of about three acres, devoted to the amusement of the scho- lars, whilst the Wilderness, which is shaded with fine trees, and laid out in gravel and grass walks, is re- served for the recreation of the pensioners and other members of this foundation. The kitchen garden occupies somewhat more than an acre of ground. * An apprentice fee of £60 is now given with those qualified scholars, whose parents or guardians prefer putting them to trades to sending them to College. Bat this occurs in very few instances : one of them may excite a smile, namely, that of Henrt/ Siddo}is, who was apprenticed to his uncle, Mr. J. P. Kcmlile/' to learn the Histrioaic An and Mystery." 0Q9 LONDIXIANA. Numerous remains of human bones, and even per- fect skeletons, have been uncovered at different times, in digging the foundations of houses in Charier House Square, which had anciently the name of Charter House Yard, and was, doubtless, used for interments in the wide-spreading pestilence of 1348. The north side of this square is partly occupied by the entrance and boundary wall of the old monastery, and partly by respectable houses, as are also the three other sides of the quadrangle. The area is inclosed by a neat iron railing, and shaded by two intersecting avenues of old trees. In the centre of this area was anciently a small chapel, used in the Catholic times for ex- piatory masses. Several of the officers of the Charter House have their residences in this Square. Besides the Scholars upon the foundation, there are upwards of 170 boys educated in the Charter House School, the terms for whose board and education have been fixed by the Governors at £57. 12s. per annum; but from the necessary extra charges, the entire cost varies, for each boy, from £75 to £55 a year. They arc raosdy accommodated at two large boarding-houses in Charter House Square, kept by Masters of the School. Many persons of high rank and eminence have, in consequence of these arrangements, received their early education within the walls of the Charter House. From the archives preserved in the muniment room, it may be calculated that nearly £100,000 was ex- pended by Mr. Sutton, on the purchase of the nume- rous estate s which he bestowed on this foundation ! LONDINIANA. 2T^ The present rental of those estates is reputed to exceed £25,000. per annum. OLD BAILEY BIRTH-PLACE OF CAMDEN MEMOIR OF PETER BALES — GREEN ARBOUR COURT. *' The Old Bayhj,'' says Stow, " runneth downe by the Wall, upon the Ditch of the City, called Hounds Ditch, to Ludgate. I haue not read how this street tooke that name, but it is like to have risen of some Court of old tyme there kept ; and I finde, that in the yeere 1356, the 34 of Edward the 3, the tenement and ground vpon Hounds Ditch, betweene Ludgate on the south, and J\'^ewgate on the north, was appointed to John Cambridge, Fishmonger, Chamber- laine of London, whereby it seemcth that the Cham- berlaines of London have there kept their courts, as now they doe in the Guild Hall; and till this day, the maior and justices of this city have kept their sessions in a part thereof, now called the Sessions Hall, both for the City of London, Z-nd. Shire of Middlesex." " Lower downe in the Old Bayly, is at this present a Standard of Timber, with a cocke, or cockes, deli- uering faire spring water to the inhabitants, and is the waste of the water serving the prisoners in Ludgate.* It is scarcely necessary to mention, that the atove Standard has long been removed. The learned Camden, to whose various publications our historians and antiquaries have been so greatly indebted, was the son of a painter-stainer, and born * Stow's " Survey," p. T29, edit. 1618. J^24 LOXDIXIANA. at his father's house in the Old Bailey, on the 2d of May 1550. He died at his residence at Caiselhurst, in Kent, on the 9th of November 1623, and was in- terred on the 19th of the same month, at Westminster Abbey, the whole college of Heralds, in their proper costume, attending his funeral. His strict regard to veracity, could not, perhaps, be more strongly asserted, than by his concluding words to the preface of his *' Annals of Queen Elizabeth's reign." Describing his work, he says, " Whatever it be, I dedicate and consecrate it at the Altar of Truth, to God, to my Country, and to Posterity,'*'* Another celebrated inhabitant of the Old Bailey, was Peter Bales, the celebrated penman of Queen Elizabeth's reign, who was born in the year 1547, but the place of his nativity is uncertain. Wood says, '^ he spent several years in sciences amongst the Oxo- nians, particularly, as it seems, in Gloucester Hall ; but that study, which he used for diversion only, proved at length an employment of profit."* The first notice that we find of the skill of this mas- ter is in 1575, when, as Holinshed acquaints us, he " contriued and writ within the compasse of a Penie, in Latine, the Lord's Praier, the Creed, the Ten Com- mandments, a praier to God, a praier for the Queene, his posie his name, the daie of the moneth, the yeare of our Lord, and the reigne of the Queene. And on the seuenteenth of August next following, at Hampton * A. Wood's " Atbeaae Oxoniensis," vol. i. col. 289. LOXDINTANA. 225 Court, he presented the same to the qiieene's maies- tie in the head of a rinGr of gold, couered with a christallj and presenied therewith an excellent specta- cle, by him deuised for the easier reading thereof : wherewith hir maiestie read all that was written therein with great admiration, and commended the same to the lords of the councell, and the ambassadors, and did weare the same manie times vpon her finger."* In 1586, Bales was employed (probably as a decy- pherer, as well ixs to counterfeit different hand-writings) by Sir Francis Walsingham, Secretary of State, at the time that the conspiracies of Mary, Queen of Scots, were discovered with the Papists. In 1590, we find him master of a writing-schooU at the upper end of the Old Hailey, and he instructed the sons and daugh- ters of several persons of distinction, both at home and abroad. During his residence there, he published his first work, intituled, " The Writing School Master,''^ in three parts, which was imprinted at London, in quarto, by T. Or win. At the end of that book is the folio v/ing Epigram : — " Sw'ifty True^ and Faxr^ good Reader, I present. Art, Pen, and Hand, have play'd their parts in me : Mind, Wit, and Bye, do yield their free consent ; Skill, Ride, and Grace, give all their gains to thee : Swift Art, True Pen, Fair Hand, together meet. Mind, Wit, and Ej/e, SkUl, Rule, and Grace to greet." In 1595 he had a trial of skill with Daniel Johnson, * Holiiiihed's ♦'* Chronicles/' v. 4, p. 330 : edit. 180S. VOL. II. Q 226 LONDINIANA. a person eighteen years younger than himself, from whom he bore off the prize, a Golden Pen, of the value of twenty pounds. On this occasion, John Davies, his rival in the art, published the following satirical and ill-natured Epigram in his " Scourge of Folly :^' — *' The Hand^ and Golden Pen, Clopkonian Sets on his Sign, to shew, O proud, poor Soul, Both where he wonnes, and how the same he won. From Writers fair, though he writ ever foul : But by that Hand, that Pen so borne hath been From. Place to Place, that for the last half Yeare It scarce a sen'night at a Place is seen ; That Hand so plies the Pen, though ne'er the neare. For when Men seek it, elsewhere it is sent, Or there shut up, as for the Plague or Rent, Without which staj/ it never still could stand, Because the Pen is for a Punning Hand.'' From this it would appear that Bales was in distressed circumstances and it was a common saying in the reign of James I., when any spendthrift was likely to be arrested for debt, and required bail, that '* he needed the friendship of Peter Bales.'' Sir George Buck, a contemporary writer, in his "Discourse on the Third Universiiy of England," printed at the conclu- sion of Howes's " Stow's Annals," acquaints us, that the " arms of Calicjraphy, viz. azure, a pen or, were given to Bales, as a prize, where solemn trial was made for mastery in this art, among the best pen-men in London." On the north-east side of this street, in the part which was anciently called the Little Old Bailey, is a LONDINIANA. 227 small square of mean houses, named Green Arbour Court, in which Goldsmith, the poet, once resided, in a miserable apartment at No. 12. Here he is said to have composed his ' Vicar of Wakefield,' his ' Tra- veller,' and other pieces ; and when his landlady had arrested him for rent, Dr. Johnson kindly assisted him by selling the former work to Miller, the bookseller, for sixty pounds.* It appears from the title-page, that Prynne's " Histrio-Mastix," was printed " for Michael Sparke, and sold at the Blue Bible, in Greene Arbour, in Little Old Bayly, 1633." There is every reason to believe that, in ancient times, this spot was the site of a strong Fort or outwork, in front of the city, and in Sea-coal Lane, at the bottom of Break-neck Stairs, which lead out of Green Arbour Court towards Fleet Market, are considerable remains of massive stone walls. THE STRAND — VARIOUS MANSIONS OF THE NOBI- LITY AND PRELATES. In ancient times the Strand was an open space, extending from Temple Bar to the village of Charing, sloping down to the river, and intersected by several streams from the neighbouring high grounds, which in this direction emptied themselves into the Thames. In after ages, when the residence of the court at West- minster had become more frequent, and the Parliament was held there, the Strand, being the road thence from the City, became the site of several mugnificent man- * Bosv.eli's " Life of Dr. JobnsoD,"' vol. 1, p. 395. fifth edit. Q 2 228 LOXDINIAXA. sions belonging to the nobility and clergy, most of which were situated on the south side, and had large gardens extending to the water's edge. The first of these mansions from Temple Bar, was Exeter House, an inn belon^ino; to the BishoDs of Exe- ter, afterwards called Paget House, and Leicester House, and finally Essex House, from being the resi- den(?e of the favourite of Queen Elizabeth ; under the latter appellation it has given name to the street, now built upon the spot where it formerly stood. Between that mansion and the present Milford Lane, was a Chapel, dedicated to the Holy Ghost, called St. Spirit, " vpon what occasion founded," says Stow, " I have not read."* To the west of this chapel was an Inn, belonging to the Bishop of Bath, called Hampton Place, and afterwards ./Arundel House, standing on the site of the present Arundel Street. Further to the west\Tard was an Inn of Chancery, called Chester's Inn, and Strand Inn, near which the Bishop of Landaff had also an Inn, At a short distance from the latter place, was the Strand Bridge, *' and vnder it," says Stow, " a lar.e or way dowr. to the landing-place on the bank of the Thames,"* the site of which is still marked by Strand Lane. Not far from the bridge stood the Bishops of Chester'' s Inn (" commonly called Lichfield and Coi(enfne,"f) and adjoining it the Bishop of Worcester^ s Inn, both of which were pulled down by the Protector Somerset in 1549, when he * Stow's •' Survey," p. 829, edit. 1618. t Ibid. p. 130, edit. 1618. J Ibid. LONDINIANA. 229 erected Somerset House. Opposite the Bishop of Wor- cester's Inn, formerly stood a stone cross, at which, says Stow, " the justices itinerants sate without Lon- don ;"* near this spot afterwards was erected the May Pole, which was removed in 1718. The next man- sion was the Palace of the Savoy, adjoining to the walls of which were the gardens of the Bishop of Carlisle's Inn, afterwards called Worcester House, now the site of Beaufort Buildings. The next in succession, was Salisbury House, which has given name to Salis- bury and Cecil Streets. Proceeding onwards, and pass- ing over Ivy Bridge, lhe magnificent structure of Dw- ham House presented itself, which at one period was a royal palace. Nearly adjoining was an Inn belonging to the Bishops of Korwich, afterwards called York House, from becoming the residence of the Arch- bishops of York, when their former mansion at White- hall was converted into a royal palace by Henry the Eighth. York Stairs, at the bottom of Buckingham Street, still marks the water-gate of the estate, which subsequently became the property of George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, whose names and titles are per- petuated in the various streets, &c. built upon it. The last mansion near the village of Charing, and now the only remaining one, was called Northampton House, afterwards Suffolk House, and now Northumberland Bouse, from being the residence of the Dukes of Northumberland. Stow's " Survey," p. 130, edit. 1618. 230 LONDINT-^NA. On the north side, the Strand presented but few houses of note. Wimbledon House, on the spot lately- occupied by D'Oyley's Warehouse, which had been erected by Sir Edward Cecil, was burnt down in 1628. At a little distance, westward, was Burghley House, afterwards Exeter House, and now partly occupied by Exeter Change ; on the other part, and its attached ground, were erected the several streets and alleys re- ceiving names from the Cecil family. DURHAM HOUSE, SALISBURY HOUSE, AND WORCES- TER HOUSE. Durham House, (with its appendages,) formerly an Inn belonging to the Bishops of Durham, occupied an extensive plot of ground, now covered by the build- ings, called the ^delphi. It was erected, according to Stow, by Thomas de Hatfield, Bishop of Durham,* and Strype quotes the following entry connecting it with that prelate, from a manuscript in the Bodleian Library : " Manerium, sive Hospitium Episcopale Londoniae cum Capella et Cameris, sumptuosissime construxit." But Pennant says, that it was only rebuilt by Hatfield, and owes its original foundation to Anthony de Beck, Patriarch of Jerusalem, and Bishop of Durham in the reign of Edward the First. f In the 26th of Henry the Eighth, Tonstal, the then Bishop of Durham, exchanged this mansion with the King for another in Thames Street, called " Cold-harborough,'' * " He was made Bishop of the See in the year 1345, and sat Bishop there 36 years." Strype's Stow, vol. 2. p. 5't6. t Pennant's " London," p. 120. LOXDINIANA. 231 and it was converted i: to a royal palace. During the same reign, in 1540, a grand tournament was held at Westminster, which lasted six days, after which the challengers rode to Durhiim House, where, says Stow, " they not only feasted the King, Queen, [Anne of Cleves,) Ladies, and all the Court, but also they cheared all the Knights and Burgesses of the Commons House in the Parliament, and entertained the Mayor of London, with the Aldermen and their Wives, at a Dinner, &c. The King gave to every of the said Challengers and their Heirs for ever, in Reward of their valiant activity, 1 00 Marks, and a House to dwell in, of yearly Revenue, out of the Lands pertaining to the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem.'*''* Edward the Sixth bestowed Durham House, or Durham Place, as it v/as then called, on Lis sister Elizabeth during the term of her life ; previously to which, in that monarch's reign, a mint had been established here, under the direction of Sir William Sharington. It afterwards became the residence of John Dudley, Earl of Nor- thumberland; and here, in May 1553, says Holinshed, were solemnized three marriages. " The first was betweene the lord Gilford Dudlie, the fourth sonne of the duke of Northumberland, and the ladie Jane, eldest daughter to Henrie duke of Suftblke, and the ladie Frances his wife, who was the daughter of Marie second sister to King Henrie the eight, first maried to Lewes the French king, and afterwards to Charles Brandon duke of Suffolke. The second mariage was betweene the lord Herbert, son and heire to William earle of • Strype's Stow, vol. 2. p. 577. 23.2 LOMDiyiAXA. Peaibroke, and the Jadie Katharine second daughter of tiie said ladie Frances, by the said Henrie duke of Suffolke. And the third was between e Henrie lord Hastings, sonne and heire to Francis earle of Hunting- ton, and ladie Katharine, youngest daughter to the forenamed duke of Northumberland."* Here also Dudley formed his ambitious designs of investing the unfortunate Lady Jane with the regal dignity, for which regretted assumption, she suffered on the scaffold. Queen Mary again granted this mansion in reversion to the See of Durham, and Sir Walter Raleigh, to whom it had been given by Elizabeth, was obliged to surren- der it on the death of that Queen to Toby Matthew, the then Bishop, who was afterwards created Arch- bishop of York, In 1608, the New Exchange was built by the Earl of Salisbury on the site of the stables of Durham House, which fronted the Strand, and which, Strype says, ** were old, ruinous, and ready to fall, and very un- sightly in so public a passage to the Court and West- minster." It was partly built according to the plan of the Royal Exchange, with cellars beneath, over which was a paved walk, and above were the shops, which were principally occupied by sempstresses and milliners. At its opening, it was honoured by the presence of the King (James I.) and his Queen, who named it " The Bursse of Britain."' -f * Holinshed's " Chronicle,'^ vol 3. p. 1063, edit. 1808. t In November, 1653, a fatal affair happened at this place : a quarrel having: arisen between Mr. Gerard, (a gentleman at that time engaged in a plot against CroniwellJ and Don Pan- LONDINFANA. 233 In 1640, this mansion was purchased of the See of Durham, for the annual sum of £:200, by Philip, Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery, who pulled it down and erected several tenements on its site. In 1737, the Exchange was also pulled down, and its site covered with houses. This estate was afterwards purchased of the Earl of Pembroke by four brothers, architects, of the name of Adam, who erected on it that stately pile of buildings, named by them the AdeJphi, from the Greek word a,hx<^oi, brothers. At the north-west corner of Durham-yard, which is a steep, and partly under-ground, avenue, leading from the Strand to the wharfs on the river-side, was recently to be noticed a last remaining vestige of an ancient stone wall, which has been covered with cement, and forms a kind of abutment to the adjoining shop. It will be seen from the annexed print, that the buildings of Durham Place were extensive, and that those near the Thames were embattled and strengthened with towers. Salisbury House stood between the noble man- sions of the Earl of Worcester and Bishop of Durham. It was a large and handsome structure, surmounted by turrets, erected by Sir Robert Cecil, (second son of Lord Burghley,) Secretary of State to Queen Elizabeth, taleon Sa, (brother to the Portuguese Ambassador,) the latter, the next day, came to the Exchange, accompanied by assassins, who, mistaking another person then walking with his brother and mistress, for Mr. Gerard, seized upon him, and put him to death. For this crime he was condemned to die ; and, by a sin- gular coincidence, he suffered on the same scaffold with Mr. Gerard, whose plot had been discovered. 234 LONDINIANA. and Lord Treasurer to James the Flr?t; who was created Earl of Salisbury* in 1 605, that title having lain dormant since the execution of Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, the last of the Plantagenets, in 1541. At the death of this Earl, his successor divided this edifice into two separate mansions, called Gi-cat Salis- bury House, and Little Salisbury House, the latter of which was let to persons of quality ; it was afterwards divided into several tenements, which were at length pulled down, and its site converted into Salisbury Street, which, being very narrow and steep, was but indifferently inhabited ; but has since been rebuilt, on a more commodious plan, by James Paine, Esq., architect. Another part of these premises, adjoining Great Salisbury House, and over the long gallery there, was afterwards converted into a mart for millinery and other fashionable articles, and was known by the name of the Middle Exchange. It consisted of a long room, ex- tending from the Strand to the Thames, lined on each side with s'.iops ; and at the end was a passage, with a handsome flight of steps leading to the river. " It had the bad Luck," says Strype, ** to have the nick- name given it of the JVliore' s-nest : whereby, with the ill Fate that attended it, few or no people took shops there, and those that did were soon weary and left them."f The estate again reverting to the Earl of * Mr. Moser says, " tbat it had probably been the spot whereon the town residence of the Earls of Salisbury had stood from the time of the Normans.'^ t Strype's Slow, vol. 2. p. 115. LONDINIANA. 235 Salisbury, lie pulled down the Exchange, to^jether with the whole of Great Salisbury House, and erected Cecil Street on its site, about the year 1696. Worcester House stood near Ivy Bridge, on the spot now occupied by Beaufort Buildings; its grounds, which extended to the river, were bounded on the east by the buildings of the Savoy, and on the west by the gardens of Salisbury House. In the time of Henry the Eighth this mansion belonged to the See of Carlisle, and was known by the name of Carlisle House ; but in the reign of that monarch, it was exchanged by Bishop Heath with the King for Rochester Place, at Lambeth. It next came into the possession of the Earl of Bedford, when it was called Bedford House, and Russell House. It was afterwards inhabited by the Earls of Worcester, whence it ac- quired the name of Worcester House,*ai\d Edward, the last earl of that title, died there, on the 3d of March, * " Coucerning Buildinof the old House," says Strype, " there goes this story : That there beiog a very hirge Walnut-tree growing in the Garden, which much obstructed the eastern Prospect of Salisbury House, near adjoining, it was proposed to the Earl of Worcester's Gardener, by the Earl of Salisburyt or his Agent, that if he could prevail with his Lord to cut down the said Tree, he should have £100, which Offer was told the Earl of Worcester, who ordered him to do it, and tuke the £100, both which were performed to the great Satisfaction of the Earl of Salisbury, as he thought; but, there being no great Kindness betwixt the two Earls, the Earl of Worcester soon caused to be built, in the Place of the Walnut-tree, a large brick House, which then took away the whole east Prospect,''— 'Strype's StoWj vol, 2. p. 114. 236 LONDIXIANA. 1627. From him it desceDded to his eldest son, Henry, who was created Duke of Beaufort, when it again changed its name to that of its new occupier. The celebrated Lord Cliancellor Clarendon lived in this mansion for a short time, whilst his own house was building: paying for it the then enormous rent of £500 a year. The Duke of Beaufort having purchased Bucking- ham House at Chelsea, caused this mansion, wliich was in a very dilapidated state, to be pulled down, and erected a smaller house for himself, for transacting his business in town, which was afterwards, through the carelessness of a servant, burnt down. The site and grounds are now occupied by Beaufort Buildings ^ {which mostly consist of large and respectable houses), and by different wharfs on the river side. OLD LONDON BRIDGE. With the exception of Dion Cassius, no mention is made by any historian of a bridge over the River Thames in the Roman times ; but that writer has in- cidentally noticed one, when recording the invasion of Britain, by the Emperor Claudius, in the year 44. His account, in substance, is, that " The Britons, re- treating upon the River Thames, where it falls into the sea, (it being, from inundation, stagnant,) readily passed over, from knowing both the firm and the easily- fordable parts, whilst the Romans, in following them, were much endangered : upon which, swimming back, another party, crossing by a Bridge a little higher up, came up with and slew many of the Britons, but pur- LONDINIANA. 237 suing the rest incautiously, were themselves entangled in the marshes, and had a great number lost."* But little reliance can be placed upon this infor- mation ; for as Dion Cassius wrote almost two cen- turies after the invasion by Claudius, and as no other authority ever alluded to a Bridge across the Thames, earlier than the tenth century, the probability is, that his statement was either founded on incorrect materials, or that he mistook some stream flowing into the Thames for the river itself. The " Saxon Chronicle," in noticing the irruption of Olaf, or Aniaf, the Dane, [or rather Norwegian King,] under the date 993, acquaints us, that " he sailed with 390 ships to Staines, which having plun- dered without opposition, he returned to Sandwich." Hence it has been inferred, that there was no Bridge across the Thames at London, at that period, or it would have been fortified by the citizens, and this in- cursion prevented. But William of Malmesbury, in mentioning the attack on the City by Sweyn, King of Denmark, in the following year, viz. 994, informs us, * The origiiuil passage is subjoined : vide Dijnis " HistoriiB Roraanae," toni. ii. p. 95%. Lib. Ix. Sect. xx. " avciyj.vDr^G-ci,iT.jiV 5' huvSiy ru3v BocTtwtjuv IttI tov TafAtcav Trora/ixoy, xal pa^twg ayrov ita^aVTaiv, aii xal to. g-s^i^ct ra T£ ivnoca, rov y^jijflou ax.Pi^M; sI^otjuv o4 ^Vuifjuuoi iTTaxoT^ovSn^avTig a-^-ffi, Taxirn fj.ey la^aMcrav, ^ia\n^a[X£VMV ^' avOig rZv KfXTuJv, xal Tiyujy ire^wv dia yi^-jia; oXtyov atuj hiXSovruJV, ToXXayoSiv re ctjua avToTi irooasfxi^ay, yjct\ z-iXkoxj; avTMv Karixo-^av tov; T€ Xoiitov; aTteoia'A'c'n'Tiv; I'mctuj- xovT£;, s'; T£ 'iKn ^iKrhi^o^ci Icr'imdoyfVnX avyjizvg anijocthay." S38 LONDINTANA. that Sweyne's fleet ran ^^ foul of the Bridge ■* and again, when a second time besieged by Sweyn, he says, that '' the enemy was partly overthrown, and part was destroyed in the River Thames, over which, in their precipitation and fury, they never looked for the Bridge."* Among the statutes of King Ethelred II., inserted by Brompton in his " Chronicon," we find the following passage relating to London Bridge : " Concerning the Tolls given at Bylynges2;ate. — Whoever shall come to the Bridge, in a boat in which there are fish, he him- self being a dealer, shall pay one halfpenny for toll ; and if it be a larger vessel, one penney." Although it is thus evident that the Bridge existed in the Saxon times, we have no other account of its origin than what is given by Stow in the following passage : — " The originall foundation of London bridge, by report of Bartholmew Linsted, alias Fowle, last Prior of S. Marie Queries Church in Southwarke, was this : a Ferrie beeing kept in place where now the Bridge is builded, at length the Ferri-man and his wife deceasing, left the same Ferrie to their only daughter, a maiden, named Mary, which with the goods left by her parents, as also with the profits rising of the said Ferrie, builded a house of Sisters, in place where now standeth the East part of S. Mary Queries Church, aboue the Queere, where she was buried, vnto the which house she gaue the ouersight and profits of the Ferry. But afterwards, the said house of Sisters being couerted into a Colledge of Priests, the Priests builded the Bridge of Tim- * Malmesbury's'' De Gestis Regum :" fol. 38^edit. 1596. LONDIXIANA. 239 ber, as all other the great Bridges of this land were, and from time to time kept the same in good reparations ; till at length, considering the great charges of repairing the same, there was (by ayd of the Citizens of London and others) a Bridge builded with Arches af stone, as shall be shewed."* In the writings of Snorro SlurlesoniuSj^ an Icelandic historian, there is a very curious account of an assault on London Bridf]:;e in the year 1008, by the united forces of Ethelred the Second, surnamed the Unready, (whose imposts at Billingsgate are mentioned above,) and his then ally, Olaf, the Norwegian Prince. At that period, the Danes were in possession both of the City and the Bridge, and had also a strong outwork in " Sudurvirke,''^ Southwark, consisting of an inner pile, or rampait, " formed of wood, stone, and turf," de- fended by " a broad and deep ditch." This, as well * Stow's " Survey,' ' p. 48: edit. 1618.— There is a very curious and scarce tract of 30 pages, entitled : " The True History of the Life and sudden death of old John Over?, the rich Ferry- Man of London, shewinjj, how he lost his life by his owu covetousness. And of his daughter Mary, who caused the Church of St. Mnry Overs in Southwark to be built ; and of the building of London Bridge. London: Printed for T. Harris at the Looking-Glass on London Bridge: and sold by C. Corbet at Addison's Head, in Fleet-street, 1744. Price six-pence." Of this tract there are two editions, one in 12mo. bearing the date 163T ; the other in 8vo. 1744. It is almost needless to remark, that this tract is entirely legendary, and undeserving of the least degree of credit. f Vide Johnstone's " Antiquitates Celio-SeandioB,'' 4to. printed at Copenhagen, in 1786. Suorro wrote in the 13th cen- tury, and vvas assassinated in VM\. 240 LOXDIXIAXA. as the Bridge, had already been unsuccessfully attacked by Ethelred, when ic was determined in Council that a simultaneous assault by land and by water should be made, and Olaf prepared for the encounter by- erecting great scaffolds upon his ships, of sufficient size and strength, " not only to afford space for engas:- ing hand in hand, but also a base firm enough for the play of his engines, in case they should be pressed upon from shore." Snorro prefaces his details of the battle by the following description of the Bridge : — '' There was, at that time, a Bridge erected over the River between the City and South wark, so wide, that if two carriages met they could pass each other. At the sides of the Bridge, at those parts which looked upon the River, were erected Ramparts and Castles that were de- fended at the top by penthouse-bulwarks and sheltered turrets, covering to the breast those who were fighting in them : the Bridge itself was also defended by piles fixed in the bed of the River." In describing the attack, he proceeds thus : — " The Fleet, as well as forces, being now ready, they rowed towards the Bridge, the tide being adverse ; but no sooner had they reached it, than they were violently as- sailed from above with a shower of missiles and stones, of such immensity that their helmets and shields were shat- tered, and the ships themselves considerably injured. Many of them, therefore, retired : but Olaf, the King, and his Norsemen, having rowed their Ships close up to the Bridge, made them fast to the piles with ropes and cables, with which they strained them, and the tide seconding their united efforts, the piles gradually gave way, and were withdrawn from under the Bridge. At this time, there LONDINIANA. 241 was an immense pressure of stones and other weapons, so that the piles being removed, the whole Bridge brake down, and involved in its fall the ruin of many : numbers, however, were left to seek refuge by flight ; some into the City, others into Southwark." This event and its sequent advantages, so intimidated the citizens, that they submitted to receive Elhelred as King. The Norse bards, Ottar Suarti and Sigvatus, celebrated Olaf 's triumph in their songs ; a specimen of which, as translated in the *' Chronicles of London Bridge," is here given : " That was truly the sixth fight which the mi.hty King fought with the men of England ; wherein King Olaf, — the Chief himself a Son of Odin, — valiantly attacked the Bridge at London. Bravely did the swords of the Volscs defend it, but through the trench which the Sea Kings, the men of Vikesland, guarded, they were enabled to come, and the plain of Southwark was full of his tents."* In the year 101 G, the Danes, under the command of * Vide *' Chronicles,'' p. 24. To that verj' interesting com- pilation (by Mr. R. Thomson), we are indebted for all the above particulars of Olaf's victory, as well as foi' 'arious other parts of this article. King Olaf, Anlaf, or Olave, appears to have been converted to Christianity in England ; and his memory was so much revered by the Londoners, that no less than thiee Churches within the City, and one in Southwark, were consecrated to his lame, after his enrolment in the Calendar of Saints : viz. St. Olave, Jewry ; St. dave, Hart Street ; St. Olave, Silver Street; and St. Olave, Tooley Street. Olaf was tiiain in battle by his Pagan subjects at Stichstadt, to the north ol Drontheim, in the year 1030. VOL. IT. R 242 LONDINIANA. Canute, having advanced up the river with their fleet, were impeded in their progress by the Bridge, when, according to the " Saxon Chronicle," *' they sank a deep ditch on the south side, and dragged their ships to the west side of the Bridge." This trench is sup- posed to have commenced at Rotherhithe, and con- tinuing in the form of a semicircle, to have entered the Thames again at the lower end of Chelsea Reach. William the Conqueror, in the year 1067, in a charter to the Abbey Church of St. Peter's Westminster, con- firmed to the monks there, a Gate in London, called Botolph's Gate, with a Wharf, " at the Head of London Bridge.''' In November, 1091, in consequence of a violent tempest, the river was so swollen, as en- tirely to sweep away the Bridge, and inundate the banks on each side to a considerable distance. Six years after- wards, William Rufus imposed a heavy tax upon his subjects for rebuilding the Bridge, and executing other considerable works which he had then in progress. In 1135, it suffered greatly from fire, but was soon re- paired, yet not so substantially as to last many years ; since, according to Stow, " the same Bridge, in 1 163, was not onely repaired, but new made of timber, as afore, by Fetcr of ColecliurcU, Priest and Chaplain."* We are now arrived at the period when a Bridge of Stone was first erected over the river Thames, at London ; an event connected with the extraordinary fact, that Peter of Colechurch was the architect of the new fabric of stone, as he had been of the preceding one of * Stow-s '« Survey,'' p. 50 ; edit. 1618. LONDINIANA. 248 timber.* The instability of a wooden Bridge, over such a wide and rapid part of the stream, and the frequent necessity for expensive repairs, were doubt- kss the leading causes which led to this erection. Radiilphus de Diceto, who wrote about 121.0, when the new Bridg-e had but recently been finished, states from his own knowledge, that Peter, tlie Curate of Colechurch, was a native of London. He commenced its foundations about the year 1 176 (22d of Henry II.), " neere vnto the bridge of timber, but somewhat more towards the west ;"f the original bridge having stood * St. Mary Cole-church stood in the Poultry, at the south cad of Conie-hope Lane, (now Grocer's Alley,) " of old time so called,'' says Stow, " of a Signe of three Conies hanging over a PouUer's stall at the Lane's end." This Church was " named of one Cole, that builded it vpon a vault aboue ground, so that men are forced to ascend vp thereunto by certain steps." Henry the Fourth, iu the 1st year of his reign, granted licence to Wil- liam Marshall and others, to found a Brotherhood of St. Katharine witliin it, because Thomas a Becket and St. Edmund were baptized there, *' thus expressed," Strype says, " in the Record iu the Tower : — In Eccles. de S. Maria de ColechurdL- juxla magnum Aqueduct, in qua Ecclaia S. Thomas de Cantuar. et S. Edmund, P\.ex baptizata fuerunt.'' This Church, which was a small fabric, belonged to the Mercers' Company, of which Gilbert Becket, th<:! Archbishop's father, was a member, and it will also be recollected, (vide vol. i. p. 233,) that he dwelt in the Mercery. It was destroyed by the fire inlG QQ ; after which, the parish was annexed to St, Mildred's Poultry : the living was a Curacy. f Stow 's ^' Survey," p. 50 ; edit. 1618. Stow's information ■was most probably acquired from the Collections on the An- tiquities of Lotidon, made by Leiand, and which had come into his own possession. R 2 S44 LOXDINIANA. contiguous to St. Botolph's Wharf. " The King as- sisted in the work," yet in what manner, we are not informed; though it has been inferred, from the popu- lar saying of " London Bridge was built upon Wool- packs," — that it was by the proceeds of a tax upon wool : one thousand marks, or pounds, was also given by Cardinal Hugo di Petraleone, the Pope's Legate, and Richard, Archbishop of Canterbury.* This Bridge was thirty-three years in building; but in 1205, four yoars prior to its completion, Peter of Colechurch di^d ; he was buried with much appropriateness, within the centre pier, in the crypt of a large chapel, dedicated to St. Thomas, wliich had been erected there, at the sole charge of the Master-mason ; but the name of this last benefactor has not descended to us.f * Leland's '' Itinerary," vol. vii. P. I. p. 1:2 ; edit. 1768-69. -f- The fact of the interment of Peter of Colechurch within ihe Chapel upon London Bridge, is substantiated by the Annals of Waverley. Maitland says, *' In the middle [of the Chapel] was situate a sepulchral IMonument, of the length of seven feet and a half, and the breadth of four : the remains whereof were lately (A. D. 1T3T) discovered by Mr. Yaldvvyn, the present inhabi- tant, when he repaired the staircase, which is built over it." Vide " History of London," vol. i. p. 46, by Entick ; but neither in that, nor in Maiiland's own edition of 1739, is there any mention of Mr. Yaldwyn's discovering '' the remains of a body," as mistakenly apprehended by the ingenious editor of the "Chronicles of London Bridge." We may, therefore, be allowed to conjecture, that if due care be taken, when the old Bridge is pulled down, as most probably it will in the course of two or three years, the bones and ashes of its venerable archi- tect will still be found. LONDINIANA. 245 About four years before the decease of Peter of Colechurch, King John, in a letter missive, dated from Molinel, in France, to the Mayor and Citizens of Lon- don, recommended Isenbert, Master of the Schools of Xainctes, (who had constructed the bridge of Xainctes and Rochelle,) to finish the new Bridge, yet there is no evidence of tlie success of that recommendation; and, on the contrary. Stow informs us, that *' it was finished in 1209, by the worthy Merchants of London, Serle, Mercer, IVilliam Almaine, and Bene- dict J5ofeM;nVe, principall Masters of that worke." The same writer, referring to three different authorities, gives the following particulars of a dreadful calamity which occurred on the Bridge, soon after its completion : " In the yeere 1212, on the tenth of July at night, the Borough of Southwarke, vpon the Southside the river of Thames, as also the Church of our Lady of the Canons there, beeing on fire, and an exceeding great multitude of people passing the bridge, either to extinguish and quench it, or else to gaze and behold it ; suddenly the North part, by blowing of the South winde, was also set on fire, and the people which were euen now passing the bridge, per- ceiuing the same, would haue returned, but were stopped by the fire, and it came to passe, that as they staled or pro- tracted time, the other end of the bridge also, namely the South end, was fired, so that the people thronging them- selues between the two fires, did nothing else but expect present death. Then came there to aide them many ships and vessels, into the which the multitude so unaduisedly rushed, that the ships being thereby drowned, they all perished. It was said, that through the fire and ship- wrack, there were destroied about three thousand persons. 246 LONDINIANA. whose bodies were found in part, or half burned, besides those that were wholly burnt to ashes, and could not be found." From the above account it may be inferred, that various buildings had been raised at each extremity of the Bridge, even at that early period ; although, after this disaster, nothing, perhaps, but its defensive towers were for awhile suffered to be rebuilt. In Decembel", 1213, King John, by a precept addressed to the Mayor and Sheriffs, and still preserved among the Close Rolls in the Tower, commanded that " the Halfpence'' which were then taken of" foreign merchants," should " be given to the work of London Bridge." The precise period at which the Gates, or Towers, were first erected, is involved in obscurity; yet there can be little doubt, but that their origin was as early as that of the fabric itself. Even the TVooden Bridge appears to have had some defence of this kind, for the Danish writer, Suhm, informs us, that when Canute removed the body of St. Elphage, from St. Paul's to Canter- bury, " warriors, clad in armour, were stationed on the Bridge, and along the banks of the river ; and others, by order of the King, raised a riot at the Gate, to divert the attention of the citizens."* The original Towers were built at the extremities of the Bridge, the one on the South wark, and the other on the London side : but in 1426, a third Tov/er was erected at the north end of the draw -bridge, which crossed the intCT- See " Londiuiana," vol. i, p. 265. LONDINIANA. S4Y vening space between the sixth and seventh piers from the south side, and was occasionally raised up to admit the passage of vessels to and from Queenhithe, which had long been the principal wharf for lading and un- lading within the city. Henry the Third, in 1269, granted the custody of the Bridge (which twenty years before he had taken from the City, ordering the proceeds to be paid into the Exchequer) to his Queen, Eleanor of Provence. In consequence of that alienation from, its regular guar- dians, the Bridge became so ruinous, that Edward the First, in his 9th year, anno 1281, commanded collec- tions for its repair to be made " everywhere through- out the realm," stating in his letters patent, that without '' some speedy remedy, not only the sudden fall of the Bridge, but also the destruction of innumerable people dwelling upon it, may suddenly be feared." The same monarch, also, in the following year, in two different letters patent, ordered certain tolls to be taken of every one crossing the Bridge, for three years, to be appro- priated towards its reparations ; and he likewise granted, for the same purpose, several pieces of land within the city, to the Mayor and Citizens ; to whom the regular keeping of the Bridge appears to have been then restored. In the severe winter of 1282, five of the arches were " borne downe and carried away" by the ice; and in 1289, Stow says, " the Bridge was so sore decaied for want of reparations, that men were afraid to passe thereon." A subsidy was, in consequence, granted for its support, and " a great collection or gathering was 248 LONDINIANA. made of all Archbishops, Bishops, and other Eccle- siastical persons." The sums thus obtained being insufficient for the required purposes, King Edward, by difterent letters patent, dated in 12S8, 1301, and 1305, ordered a Pontage to be levied, for maintaining the Bridge ; the term under each patent being limited to three years.* In August, 1305, the dissevered head of the brave but ill-fated Sir William Wallace was fixed upon a pule on the northern Tower of London Bridge ; and in the following year, that of Simon Frizel, or Frazer, was placed by its side. These were the first instances of this kind of dei^radation to which the Bridge w^as appropriated, though in after ages such scenes became frequent. On St. George's Day, 1390, a grand " Passage of Arms" took place on London Bridge, between David Lindsay, Earl of Craufort, a Scottish knight, and Lord John de Weils of England, in which the former proved victorious, after three courses on horseback with spears; Lord Wells at the third course having been " borne out of his saddle." The challenge had been given by Lord Wells, in Scotland, and a safe conduct (after- wards twice or thrice renewed) was issued for Lindsey and his retinue, — including twelve other knights — by Richard the Second, who was himself present at the • In the trauslation of the last patent, givr-n in Thomson's " Chronicles," pp. 155-159, there is a very curious enumeration of the numerous articles of merchandize and trade, that Nverc at that period in transit over and under London Bridge. LONDTNIANA. 249 combat, with most of bis nobility. Stow, speaking of this encounter, says, "at that time, the Bridge being coaped on cither side, was not replenished with houses built thereon, as since it hath been, and now is."* The next memorable circumstance connected with this fabric, occurred on November the 13th, 1396, when King Richard and his youthful consort, Isabel, of France, entered the City from Southwark, in vast pomp, on their way to the Tower. The Bridge was so thronged with spectators, that nine persons were pressed to death in the crowd, among whom was the prior of Tiptree, in Essex, and a worshipful matron of Cornhill. Henry the Fifth, on his return from France, after the tattle of Azincourt, was conducted from Blackheath into the City, in grand cavalcade, and on London Bridge a Pageant was devised to receive him, of which Lydgate, the monk of Bury, thus writes : — ** To London brygge tlienne rood oure kyng. The Processions there they mette hym ryght, " Ave Rex Anglorum^^ thei 'gan syng, " Flos Mundi," thei seide, goddys knight. To London brygge when he com right, Vp to the gate, ther strode on by A gyaunt, that was full grim of myght. To teche the Frensshe men curtesy. Wot ze right well that thus it was, Gloria tibi Trinitas. * Stow's " Survey," p. 52 : edit. 1618. This author, as well as most other historians, has referred the above feat of arms to ^^^ LONDINIAXA And at the cirawe brigge that is faste by. Two Toures there were vp pight, An Antelope and a Lyon stonding hym by, Above them Seynt George oure ladyes knyght, Be syde him many an Angell bright. * Benedictus,' thei gan synge; * Qui venit in nomine domini goddys knight,* * Gracia Dei," with zow doth sprynge. Wot ze right well that thus it ivas, Gloiia tibi Trinitas.'"'* That the passing beneath London Bridge at certain states of the tide, was not less dangerous in former times than at present, is evident from a circumstance recorded in Stow's '' Chronicles," under the year 1428, and also in the Harleian MS. No. 565, folio 87b, from which the following is an extract :— "Also this same yere," says the record, " the viij day of November, the Duke of Norfolk, with many a gentil man, squyer, and yoman tok his barge at Seynt Marye Overye, be twen iiij and v of y'^ belle a yens nyzt, and the year 1395 ; yet that it actually look place in 1390, is proved by various records and authorities, quoted in Tbomsou's " Chro- nicles,'' pp. 186-203. * Besides the above, several other splendid Pageants have on different occasions been exhibited on this bridge, the most remarkable of which were those devised to celebrate the return of Henry the Sixth, after his Coronation at Paris, as Kin^ of France, in 1431 ; and the marriage of the same King with Mar- garet of Anjou, in 1445. There was also a costly Pageant of St. Katharine and St. Ursula displayed here, on the nuptials of Priace Arthur, son of Henry VII. with Katharine of Arragon. LONDINIAX.A. 551 proposyd to passe thorugh London Bregge. Where of the tbrseid barge, thorugh misgouemance of stearyng, fell vp on the pyles, and ouerwhehiiyd. The whyche was cause of spyllyng many a gentil man and othere; the more ruthe was ! But as Gode wolde y* Duke him self and too or iij othere gentyl men, seying that myschief, leped vp on y^ pyles, and so were saved thorugh helpe of them that weren a bove y*" Brigge with castyng downe of ropes." The Duke of Norfolk, to whom this misfortune happened, was John Mowbray, the second of that title, who had served under King Henry V. in France, and who died October the 19th, 1452. On the 14th of January 1437, as we learn both from Stow and Fabian, *' the great stone Gate, and tower standing upon it, next Southwark, fell suddenly down into the river, carrying with it '*twoof the fairest arches" of the Bridge, and yet," adds Stow, " no man perished in body, which was a great worke of God." In 1450, on the night of the 5th of July, London Bridge was the scene of a desperate conflict between the principal citizens, headed by Sir Matthew Gough, and the insurgents under Jack Cade. The skirmish lasted the whole night, both the assailants and the assailed being alternately driven to the " stoulpes" at each extremity of the Bridge. At length " at ix of the clocke in the mornynge, both parties beynge faynte, wery, and fatigate, agreed to desist from fight, and to leve battayl to the next day."* Shortly after. • Hall's "Chronicle," fol. Ixxiii. thirty-eighth of Hen. VI. It was upon this occasion, that Jack Cade, on his first entrance 252 LONDIXIAXA. the rebels dispersed on obtaining a general pardon ; but a reward having been proclaimed for the apprehension of Jack Cade, he was slain near Hothfield, in Kent, and his head was placed upon a spike over the Bridge- gate at London. In May 1471, a daring attack was made upon the city by Thomas Neville, generally called the Bastard Falconbridge, who, under pretence of releasing Henry the Sixth from his captivity in the Tower, had collected a number of persons of desperate fortune, whose main object was plunder. His assault upon the Bridge, from Southwark, was repulsed with much loss, though during the conflict *' he burned the gate and all the houses to the drawbridge." Among the measures pursued to oppose the entrance of Sir Thomas Wyatt into the City, from Southwark, during his insurrection against Queen Mary, in Febru- ary 1553, was cutting away the drawbridge, and more strongly fortifying the other defences. Between the years 1577 and 1579, the drawbridge tower was re- built, and the heads of those executed for treason, which had stood upon the old tower, were removed to the tower at the Southwark end, which was thence- forth called the Traitor s Gate. Hentzner, in the account of his " Journey into England," in 1597, into the City (from which he was afterwards exchided through the ill conduct of his followers) is said to have cut the ropes of the drawbridge with his sword, and on his advance to Loudon Stone, to have used the noemorable words, " Now is Mortimer Lord of London." LOXUIXI.^NA. 253 states, that they counted upwards of thirty heads placed upon iron spikes on the Tower of London Bridge. There is a very curious view of this Bridgje, exe- cuted by Norden, about the end of Queen Ehzabeth's reign, but not pubHshed till the latter part of that of James the First. From the descriptive eulogy attached to it, the following is an extract: — " This famous Bridge is adorned with sumptuous build- ings, and statelie and beautifull houses on either side, inhabited by wealthy citizens, and furnished with all man- ner of trades, comparable in it selfe to a little citie, whose buildings are so artificially contriuecj, and so firmly com- bined, as it seemeth more than an ordinary streete ; for it is as one continuall vaute or roofe, except certain void places, reserved from buildings, for the retire of passen- gers from the danger of carres, carts and droues of cattle, vsually passing that way. — The vaults, sellers, and places in the bowels, as. it were, of the same Bridge, are many and admirable, which arte cannot discover to the outward view." In 1G33, on the 11th of February, a fire broke out at the house of a needle maker, near St. Magnus' Church, at the north end of the Bridge, occasioned *' by the carelessness of a maid-servant setting a tub of hot sea-coal under a pair of stairs," It raged with great fierceness, through the night and next day, till all the houses, forty-three in number, were destroyed to the first vacancy on the Bridge ; which commenced at the seventh pier. This north end, says Blome, one of Stow's conlinuators, " lay unbuilt for many years, only deal boards were put up on both sides to prevent people's falling into the Thames ;" and those pales ^54i LONDINIANA. were held together by " cross beams." Afterwards, however, a building of timber^ " very substantial and beautiful," was completed in 1 G46, at the *' north end" of the part last burnt. " The houses were three stories high, besides the cellars which were within and be- tween the piers ; and over the houses were stately platforms, leaded, with rails and ballusters about them ; and some had pretty little gardens with arbors."* The intermediate palings rem-ained for several years lons^er, as appears from an incidental notice in Pepys's " Diary," where speaking of a furious storm of wind, which raged during the night and morning of January the 24th, 1665-6, he says, that in his way through Horslydowne, " it was dangerous to walk the streets, the bricks and tiles so falling from the houses that the streets were covered with them, and whole chimneys, nay, whole houses, in two or three places, blown down. But above all, the pales of London Bridge en bodi sides were blown away, so that we were fain to stoop very low, for fear of blowing off the bridge." In the great fire of September 1666, the pile of houses so lately rebuilt, was again consumed. Pepys * Vide Str)pe's Stow, vol. i.B. l.p. 66; edit. 1720. Fronj a singular inadvertency, the editor of the recently -published *' Chronicles'' of this fabric, questions Blome's correctness in regard to the above pile, although in his own vv'ood-cut of the north end of the Bridge, on p. 407, copied from Hollar's prospect of London, before the fire of 1666, that building, as described by Blome, forms the principal feature; viz. that" having a gate in it, surmounted by the King's arms," The appearance of London Bridge about this period may he seen in the Frontispiece to this volume. LONDINIAXA. 2oO mentions, that he saw the houses "at that end of the Bridge, all on fire ;"* and Vincent, in his rhapsodical yet curious tract, intituled '' God's terrible Advice to the City," thus more circumstantially describes the conflagration : " The fire rushed down the Hill towards the Bridge, crossed Thames Street, invadeth Magnus Church at the Bridge-foot, and though that Church was so great, yet it was not a sufficient barricade against this conqueror; but having scaled and taken this fort, it shooteth flames with so much the greater advantage round about, and a great Building of houses upon the Bridge is quickly thrown to the ground : then the conqueror being stayed in its course at the Bridge, marcheth back towards the City." Within the succeeding eighteen or twenty years the entire Bridge Vv'as replenished with new buildings upon a more systematic plan than had previously existed, the old houses in the southern part having been pulled down, and again rebuilt, under the general direction of the corporate oflBcers; yet, though various improve- ments were then made, the transit over the Bridge was fraught with numerous inconveniences, and the street '' though garnished," asBlome says, '' with good tini- ber buildings, well inhabited by sufficient tradesmen,"f was still dark, narrow, and dangerous. On the 8th of September 1725, a fire, which began at a brush-maker's, near St. Olave's Church, Tooley Street, burnt down about sixty houses, on both sides of * Pepys's " Diary," vol. iii. p. 17. t Strype's "Stow," vol. i. B. ii. p. 180 ; edit. 1720. ^6 LOXDINIANA. the way, to the Bridge-gate, which being of stone, stopped the further progress of the flames. The Gate itself, however, was so much damaged, that it was thought necessary to rebuild it about two years after- wards. The erection of a Bridge at Westminster between the years 1739 and 1750, led to a great improvement in the state of London Bridge ; for the Corporation, under an Act of Parliament, obtained in 1756, were empowered to remove all the buildings, enlarge the avenues, and generally to make such alterations as should be deemed requisite. The condition of the Bridge, at that period, is thus described by a contem- porary writer. " Nineteen disproportioned arches, with sterlings in- creased to an amazing size hy frequent repairs, supported the street above. Across the middle of the street were several lofty arches, extending from one side to the other, the bottom part of each arch terminating at the first story, and the upper part reaching near the tops of the build- ings. These arches were designed to support the houses on each side of the street and were therefore formed of strong timbers bolted into the houses, which, being covered with lath and plaster, appeared as if built with stone. The back part of the houses near the Thames had neither uniformity nor beauty, the line being broken by a great number of closets that projected from the build- ings, and hung over the sterlings. This deformity was greatly increased by the houses extending a considerable distance over the sides of the bridge, and some of them projecting farther over it than the others, by which means the tops of almost all the arches, except those that were I;0NDINIANA 257 nearest, were concealed from the view of the passengers on the quays, and made the bridge appear like a multitude of rude piers, with only an arch or two at the end, and the rest consisting of beams, extending from the tops of the flat piers, without any other arches, quite across the river."* Three vacancies had been left in different parts of the Bridge, both to admit a view of the Thames, and afford a retreat from occasional obstruction in the tho- roughfare, vi^hich was of very contracted dimensions, its general width varying from twelve feet only, to twenty feet. One of these vacancies, that is, the (irst from the north end, over the eighth arch, was dignified by the appellation of London Square, There was no paved way for foot passengers, whose safest and most general course of passing over the bridge, was to follow some carriage. The new improvements were conducted by a Com- mittee, and between 1755 and 1762, the Bridge as- sumed the appearance which is represented in the annexed print. All the houses and gates were re- moved ; two of the middle arches were taken down, and a single arch constructed in their place ; a regular balustrade was erected on each side the Bridge; foot- paths, of seven feet wide, each, were laid ; and a carriage-way ft^rmed of the width of thirty-one feet.f * Vide Harrison's " London,'' fol. n't 6. t Another most essential improvement v/as made about the same time, namely, by opening a foot-way throiig;h the tower of St, Magiuis' Church ; in proseiMiting \rhicb, t'ae solid juigmeut VOL. II. S 258 LOXDTNIAXA. Whilst this work was in progress, a temporary Bridge of timber, both for foot passengers and car- riages, was raised upon the sterhngs of the old one ; but the first Bridge thus erected was destroyed by a fire, which appears to have been kindled by incendiaries, on the night of the 10th of April, 1758; the old drawbridge was also then burnt. Very great incon- venience from the stopping of all intercourse between the City and Southwark, except by water, resulted from this occurrence : but such prompt measures were taken by the corporate authorities, that another wooden Bridge was completed within a month's time, and an armed watch was regularly kept to prevent a second conflagration. In the two large prints, published in the years 1747 and 1748, by Vertue, who was then an inhabitant of Brownlow Street, Drury Lane, the west front and in« terior of the ancient Chapel on the centre pier of London Bridge, are distinctly represented. Stow in- forms us, that on its erection it was "then endowed for two priests, four clerks, &c., besides chantries since and penetrating foresight of Sir Christopher Wren, the builder of the church, was demonstrably shewn. That great architect had contrived and executed his work with such prescient skill, that but little more was necessary to be done, to eflect the de- sired improvement, than to clear away the fillings up of the arched recesses in the basement story, the arches themselves and their abutting piers being of sufficient strength to sustain the entire weight of the superincumbent mass. Sir Christopher had erected the body of St. Magnus' Church between the years 1676 and 1650. and the steeple about 1*05. LONDINIANA. 259 founded by John Hatfield and others.*' In Henry the Sixth's reign there were four chaplains serving in it, and the oblations and other profits, as appears from INewcourt's *' Repertorium,'^ appear to have been sufficiently valuable to occasion a controversy between the bridge-master and the rector of St. Magnus* Church ; this was settled by an agreement, covenanting that the rector should be paid xxd. annually, at Mi- chaelmas, for ever, and that all other profits should be for the use of the chapel and the bridge. It is most probable that all regular service in this Chapel was suspended about the era of the Reformation ; yet we are informed in Smith's " Ancient Topography of London," that " long within legal memory the ser- vice was performed every Sabbath and Saint's Day." For upwards of a century, however, it is known to have been occupied as a shop and warehouse, and almost every external feature of its sacred appropria- tion had been obliterated. It should be remarked, that this Chapel was prin- cipally built upon the great central pier, or sterling, which projected about fifty feet eastward, further into the stream than any of the others. The west front, which alone stood upon the bridge, was forty feet in height, and thirty in width. It was supported by four buttresses, crowned with crocketted pinnacles, and finished by a low gable, surmounted by a cross. In the middle compartment, which was about twice the width of the others, was a pointed window, separated by a rauUion into two lights, and having a quatrefoil in the apex ; in each side compartment was a pointed- s2 S60 LONDINIANA. arch doorway. The interior was divided into two stories, viz. an upper chapel and a crypt; these were each about sixty feet in length, terminating at the east end in a semi-hexagon. There were thirteen windows in each story, viz. five on each side, and one in each division eastward ; all these, which were handsomely pointed, were similar in form and arrangement, every window consisting of two ranges of arched divisions, surmounted by a lozenge. In the chapel, in front of each intervening pier, was a lofty shaft, carried up to the roof, which was strondy framed of timber, but had proba- bly been originally vaulted like the crypt. In the lat- ter, which was about twenty feet high, was a groined toof, supported by stone ribs, which sprung from a continued series of clustered columns in front of each pier. From each cluster seven ribs branched, and at every intersection was a sculptured boss, of a varied design; among them were cherubs, a group of four episcopal heads, and a crowned head, probably Richard Coeur de Lion, grouped with four masks ; near the en- trance was a bason, or piscina, for holy water.* * The above description has been drawn up from Vertue's prints, whose sketches and measurements were taken in the year 1744. At that time, however, many diJapidations had been made, and his delineations must be regarded as shewing the Chapel as it originally was, rather than the state of it in his own time. In the perspective view of the Crypt, he has intro- duced the figures of those well known antiquaries, Dr. Ducarel, and Samuel Gale, Esq. ; the latter of whom was one of the revivers of the Society of Antiquaries in 1717, and their fir.-.t treasurer. Vcrlue'» engraving.-, were devised uuder Mr. Gule'i LOXDINrA^TA. 261 This Chapel was pulled down in the autumn of 1 760, but the workmen had much difficulty in demo- lishing it, the cement being of extreme tenacity, and the stones strongly clamped together with iron. '* An antique marble font, curiously engraved, and several ancient coins," &c. were found in it at that period.* The upper chapel was converted into apartments ; but the crypt had been used as a paper warehouse many years : and though the floor was alwpys from eight to ten feet under the surface at high-water mark, yet the masonry was so gv)od that no water ever penetrated. From the crypt was a winding staircase, descending to the river ; and " in front of the bridge pier was a square fish-pond, formed in the sterling, into which the fish were carried by the tide, and there detained by a wire grating placed over it."f patronage, and both himself and Dr, Ducarel assisted him in his measurements : the former is standing on the left, holding u plan of the Chapel, and the latter is stooping on one knee, with a rule. Vide Nichols's '* Literary Anecdotes," vol. iv, p. 552 j and vol. vi. p. 402. When Vertue made his sketches, the Chapel-house was te- nanted by a haberdasher, named Baldwin, who was born there; and when, at the age of seventy-one, he had been ordered to go to Chiselhurst for a change of air, he found that he could not sleep in the country for want of the noise he had been always accustomed to when living on the bridge ! Ibid. vol. vi. p. 402, note. • Vide *' London Chronicle," of Aug. Hth, 1760. t Thomson's " Chronicles," p. 516. The author adds, " An ancient servant of London Bridge, now verging upon bis hun- dredth summer, well remembers to have gone dov.i) through tlie chapel to fi«h in thi? pond." 26^ LONDINIANA. Independently of this structure, the most remarkable building upon London Bridge was the famous A^07i5?/c/t House, which, from the arms over the arch- way, appears to have been of the EHzabethan age, and, from other circumstances, to have been erected here a short time prior to the year 1585. This singular and very curi- ous building was constructed in Holland, entirely of wood, and being brought over, was put together with wooden pegs only, not a single nail being used in the whole fabric. It stood to the north of the draw- bridge, over the seventh arch from the Southwark end of th3 Bridge, overhanging the river on each side. At each of its corners was a square tower, crowned with a Kremlin spire, and in the centre a rich, elabo- rately-carved gable. It was four stories in height ; the whole was richly ornamented with carved panels, and gilded and jasper-coloured columns. In the front was a profusion of transom casement windows, with carved wooden galleries before them. Over the arch- way, which was the width of the drawbridge, were placed the arms of St. George, the city of London, and those of Elizabeth, viz. France, and England, quarterly, sup- ported by the Lion and Dragon.* Since the alterations in the early part of the late reign, the history of this fabric presents but little in- terest, it being chiefly confined to the frequent neces- sity of repairs, and other measures adapted to its preservation. The passage or water-way beneath the * Vide Thomson's '' Chronicles," pp. 344-347, in which the description is interestingly iiliistrated by wood-cuts. LONDINIANA. S63 arches, or locks, as they were technically called (and with much propriety, as the free course of the tides was always obstructed by the sterlings), was progres- sively deteriorated by those reparations ; and the stabi- bility of the Bridge itself, for any extended term of years, became, in the opinion of several experienced engineers, extremely questionable. The subject, at length, engaged the attention of the House of Com- mons; and " the Select Committee upon the improve- ment of the Port of London," in their third Report, strenuously recommended the ereciioD of a new Bridge, for which several plans and designs were given, in an attached volume of engravings. Nothing, however, in furtherance of that recommendation was done for nearly twenty years, — the city, in which the conservancy of the Bridge, and the management of the Bridge House Estates, had for centuries been vested, being disin- clined to engage in such an undertaking. At length, in 1820, in consequence of several petitions from craft and barge-owners, lightermen, &c. representing the dangerous state of the navigation, and the insuffi- ciency of the water-way for the increased traffic on the Thames, a special committee of the House of Commons was appointed on the subject; and, after the examination of many witnesses, and a vast mass of evidence, it was again, in a Report, dated May 25th, 1821, strongly recommended to erect a new Bridge.* * From the examiuationof R. F. Newman, Esq. Comptroller of the Bridge -House Estates, it appeared, that London Bridge produced an income of je30,.503. 7s. 8d., of which the rental of S64 LONDTXTANA. Although this second recommendation was not im- mediately acted on, it had a decided influence on public opinion ; and, at length, the Corporation, in June 1822, oiiered premiums of £250, £150, and £100, for the three best designs that might be sent in for inspection. This produced about one hundred draw- ings, which were referred for examination to the Messrs. Nash, Soane, Smirke, and Montague, the three former being ranked among our first architects, and the other being the principal surveyor to the city. In the following January, the premiums were adjudged to three plans, which, on a more minute inquiry, were found not to be suited to the situation ; and a design of the late John Rennie, Esq., was ultimately adopted. Application was then made to Parliament for the necessary powers to erect a new Bridge, improve avenues, &c. ; and on the 4th of July, 1823 (4th of George IV.), the act for those purposes received the royal assent. Under the provisions of this statute, {which is to remain in force for ten years,) the site of the New Bridge was fixed at the distance of about the above estates amounted, in 1820, to £25,80^5. 13s. 2d. It further appeared, that the city was indebted to the Bridge. House the sum of £45,383. 4s. 6d, of which £36,383. 4s. 6d. was in cash, and £9,000. in 3 per cent. Consols; and that its capital in the funds, exchequer bills, and floating cash, amounted to £80,108. Us. Id. * Mr. Rennie had thus the unparalleled fortune of immortally associating his name with three of our Metropolitan Bridges^ namely, Waterloo Bridge, Southwark Bridge (uf cast iron), and London Bridge. LONDTNJANA. ^(i5 tliirty-four yards westward, from the old Bridge, which is to remain open as a thoroughfare until the former be completed. The Jirst pile of the coffer-dam for laying the foundation of the first pier, was driven, on the Southwark side, on Monday, March the 15th, 1824, and the^/-5^ stone within that coffer-dam was laid, with great ceremony, on the 15th of June, 1825, by the then Lord Mayor (John Garratt, Esq.), in presence of his late Royal Highness, Frederick, Duke of York, and many other persons of distinguished birth, rank and eminence.* The New Bridge, now in progress, consists of five seroi-elHptical arches, the respective spans of which are as follow: — centre arch, 150 feet; second and fourth arches, 140 feet; land arches, 130 feet; the width of the centermost piers is 24 feet, and of the others, 22 feet ; the abutments at the base are 73 feet.f The architectural features of this structure are of the most simple kind, and well suited to harmonize with the bold character of the arches. The piers have plain rectanglar buttresses, standing upon plinths, and the pier-ends which support the same, have an effect from the River infinitely more grand than that of any other Bridge that has been hitherto erected over the Thames. * For a very particular account of this ceremony, see Thom- son's " Chronicles," pp. 635-664 ; it is illustrated with four beautifully-executed wood-cuts, shewing the interior and fittings up of the coffer-dam ; and a fifth cut, representing the elegant silver trowel that was used in laying the first stone. f The exterior of this Bri^lge will be of three sorts of granite ; 266 LONDINTANA. The stairs at each end are also in good keeping with the rest of the work, and will consist of two straight flights of steps, of about 22 feet wide, from high-water. The road- way will have an easy ascent from each end of the Bridge ; the parapet is to be plain, with a hand- some block cornice. This vast work is now in a great state of forward- ness, and its principal features are fully developed. All the piers and abutments are completed, and the last key stone of the City land arch was driven on the 19th of November, 1828, with some ceremony, by the Right Hon. the Lord Mayor (Wm. Thompson, Esq.), accompanied by several Aldermen, and other persons of distinction. Many other parts are in an equally for- ward state, and it is expected that this noble pile will be opened for the public, in about two years from the present period. Under the Act of Parliament for the re-building of the eastern side being of purple Aberdeen, the western of the light-grey Devonshire Haytor, and the arch stones of botb, united with the red-browQ of Peterhead ; the heartings of the piers are of hard Bramley-Fall, Derby, and Whitby stone. These materials are roughly shaped at the quarries^ and alter being carefully wrought at the Isle of Dogs, are finally dressed and fitted to their places at the Bridge. The Pier-foundations are formed of piles, chiefly beech, pointed with iron, and driven about twenty feet into the blue clay of the bed of the River, about four feet apart, hav Tit> two rows of sills, e. ch averaging about a foot square, and filled in with large blocks of stone, upon which is laid a six-inch beech planking, bearing the first course of masonry. Vide Thomson's " Chronicles," p. 629. LONDINIANA. 267 London Bridge, the Lords of the Treasury are to dis- burse £150,000 towards the expenditure ; and £42,000 has been since granted by the Treasury to increase the width of the Bridge six feet beyond what had at first been determined on, by which acts they reserve to themselves the power of a superintendence over the whole work. The work is executed under the general direction of Messrs. George and John Rennie, the sons of the late Mr. John Rennie, and under the constant superintendence of Mr. WilHam Knight and Mr. Hoi- linsworth.the resident engineers. The contractors for building it are Mr. WilHam JoUiffe and Sir Edward Banks, who have undertaken to complete it in six years from March 2nd, 1824, for the sum of £460,000, in addition to which there is a separate contract of £42,000 for widening the Bridge six feet ; £30,000 has also been set aside as the probable expenditure required for maintaining the Old Bridge, &c. The contractors are bound down in sureties to the amount of £200,000, to complete this great work within the prescribed time. For the following interesting particulars of the dis- coveries made in laying the foundations of the new structure, the author is indebted to the kindness of Mr. Knight — whose zeal for the success of this great undertaking is equalled only by his industry in all his professional pursuits : — " In dredging round the parls where the coffer daras were required, a great quantity of miscellaneous mat- ter was brought up, amongst which were numerous coins, consisting of several Roman ones, both of brass ^268 LONDTNTANA. and silver, Saxon and Danish, and various English, of different reigns ; a considerable number of gold pieces of the Seventh and Eighth Henrys ; several ancient seals ; a crucifix, broaches, and gold rings, which were evidently of monastic periods ; ancient daggers and swords; a beautiful little statue of a horse, of theRoman era, of the most exquisite workmanship, equal in many respects (particularly about the head and neck) to those in the Elgin marbles. These discoveries were chiefly made about the western points of the old sterlings, on the city side, where a series of banks has been formed by the strength of the current, through the small locks of the old Bridge. A great portion was discovered both round the parts where the last coffer- dam was formed, and near the embankment. " Upon the spot now occupied as the stairs on the east side of the bridge, amongst the upper surface of the bed of the river (which consisted apparently of burnt ruins), were found between thirty and forty gold sovereigns, half sovereigns, and angels of the HenriesVII. and VIII. Upon excavating the earth and other obstructions (which consisted of three separate lines of old embankments, constructed of elm and fir piles) , at about thirty feet from the surface, a considerable quantity of Samian ware was found, which was unfortunately broken by the labourers in digging ; but, from the pieces which were preserved, the ware appears to have beon of the most beautiful workmanship. Many ancient keys were also found upon the line of the abutments of the new Bridge, next the sterlings ; old watches, and ancient seals ; and in that line of the river near the Cliapel sterling, was LONDINIANA. 2(59 found a large leaden seal, with the inscription of P. P. Urbanus VI. ; on the reverse the heads of Peter and Paul : it appears to have been attached to some document, and most probably to the Pope's Bull. The Roman coins found are those of Alexander ; Antoninus Pius (several large brass) ; Constantine (on the reverse side of several of which is the Sun) ; Faustina, both of the senior and junior Empresses; Maximihus, Te- tricus, Magnentius, Posthuraius, Crispus, Valens, Vic- torinus, Gallienus ; several of Trajan and Vespasian ; Gordianus, Tacitus, Adrian, Antonia, Domitian,Nero ; also silver ones of the Emperors Heliogabalus, Cara- calla, and Tiberius. ** The Saxon, Danish, and English coins are all of sil- ver, and consistof a Saxon penny of Archbishop Wilfred ; Danish pennies of Canute; Saxon pennies of Ethel- red II. ; a halfpenny and pennies of Henry V., struck at Calais; pennies, halfpennies, and farthings of Edward I.; a twopence of Edward III. ; a fourpence of Edward IV. ; a halfpenny of Richard I. ; pennies of Henry VIII. , some struck by Cardinal Wolsey; halfpennies and a fourpence of Philip and Mary ; PortculUs halfpennies of Queen Elizabeth ; also a halfpenny, three farthings, penny, twopence, threepence, fourpence, sixpence, and three haltpence, of the same Queen ; a Rose penny, twopence, and shillings of James I ; Rose pennies and twopences, halfpence, sixpences, shillings, and half- crowns of Charles I. ; farthings and sixpences of Wil- liam and Mary ; and also a number of royal tokens, and farthings of copper, in the reign of Charles I. *' Several jetton-, or counter.^, of brass and other S70 LONDIXTAXA. base metals, which were used for the purposes of cal- culation ; many tradesmen's tokens, and a small bronze statue of Harpocrates, which has been deposited in the British Museum, were also discovered."* The manner in which the Old Bridge was constructed is described in the " Chronicles of London Bridge,'* from the communication of Mr. Knight, and illustrated by a wood-cut section of the north pier of the great arch. In removing two of the old piers lately, for the purpose of relieving the navigation, an opportunity presented itself of practically ascertaining the mode in which the foundations were laid of the original Bridge, which was discovered to be 20 feet wide. On the outsides of the piers were three rows of elm stumps, from about 5 to 6 feet in length, upon these were sills * "The Harpocrates was presented to the British Museum, in November, 1825, by Messrs. Ruudle and Co. of Ludgate Hill. The figure is about two inches and a half in height, and one io breadth ; and represents the son of Osiris as a winged boy, with Lis finger pointing to his mouth, as God of Silence ; the horns emblematical of his mother Isis, on his head ; and at his feet his other attributes of a dog, a tortoise, an owl, and a serpent twined round a staff; by the number of which we may guess the figure to have been made in Greece, after the time of Alex- ander the Great. The style of sculpture is firm and massive j and on the back is a strong rivet, through which pass a large ring, and a very delicate chain of pure gold crossing like four belts in front ; it being probably of that class of figures which Winckleman states to have been worn as amulets, or the attri- butes of Priests." — Thomson's "Chronicles,'' p. 628. There was also a beautiful antique bronze lamp discovered, represent- ing a head of Bacchus, wreathed with ivy.— Ibid. p. 62T. T;()XiirNIANA. 211 of oak* about 9 incites in thickness, laid upon a mass of Kentish rubble, mixed with tiint, chalk, &c., thrown in irregularly, but without cement, and confined by the sterling, or ancient coffer-dam itself, which was left standing around each pier. The first course of the ancient masonry, which is well banded together, and perfectly sound, is laid at from two feet three inches to three feet, under low-water mark ; a circumstance that accounts for the long time spent in building the Bridge, as the workmen must have waited to take ad- vantage of the neap or low tides. This account cannot, perhaps, be more amusingly concluded than by Howel's imitation of Sannazarjo's Sonnet to the City of Venice, but which the English versifier has limited to " the stupendous site and struc- ture" of Old London Bridge : — When Neptune from his billows London spyde. Brought proudly thither by a high Spring-Tyde, As through a floating Wood He steer'd along, And dancing Cadles cluster'd in a throng ; When He beheld a mighty Bridg give law Unto his Surges, and their fm-y awe. When such a shelf of Cataracts did roar, As if the Thames with Nile had chang'd her Shoar ', When He such massy walls, such Towrs did eye. * The Oak found here was saturated completely through with water, but was perfectly sound, after the lapse of 6.52 years; out of this, several snuff-boxes, and other mementos, have beea formed, together with all the implements used on the occasion of laying first stones in the piers and abutments — such as panares, plumb rules, levels, mallets, *fec. 272 LONDINIANA. Such Posts, such Irons upon his back to lye ; When such vast Arches He observ'd, that might Nineteen Rialtos make for depth and height ; When the Cerulean God these things survayd, He shook his Trident, and astonish'd said. Let the whol Earth now all Her wonders count This Bridg of Wonders is the Paramount ! TOWER OF LONDON IN HENRY THE SIXTH's REIGNi CHARLES, DUKE OF ORLEANS. As a curious illustration of the preceding article, we may ref?r to the oldest view cf the Tower and City of London, which is known to be extant, and of which the annexed print is a reduced representation. The original forms one of the beautiful Illuminations of a Manuscript Volume of Sonnets and other Pieces, writ- ten by Charles, Duke of Orleans (grandfather to Louis the Twelfth, King of France), during his ten years' imprisonment in the Tower, in Henry the Sixth's reign, and now preserved among the Royal Manuscripts in the British Museum. In the upper part of this delineation is shewn the eastern side of Old London Bridge, with its street of g^able-ended houses, and the ancient chapel of St. Thomas. Beyond the Bridge, and along the banks of the river, is a large mass of buildings, including the spires and towers of various churches, among which the lofty steeple of Old St. Paul's is very conspicuous. But the most curious part of the picture is that which represents the Tower, and in which the several circumstances of the imprisonment, cc LONDTKIANA. Orleans was imprisoned in the Tower, 400 marks a-year were allowed for his support. The Manuscript is inscribed upon vellum, in the common black script of the 15th century. It is inti- tuled, " Grdce entiere sur le gouverneraent da Prince, en la rime ^ prose, avec Peinctures.''^ The poems tire chiefly amatory, with complaints of his imprison- ment intermingled, and fond remembrances of his native country. The several illuminations are spi- ritedly executed, though pencilled with great minute- ness. In the frontispiece are the arms of France and England, several times repeated, and also the Red Rose, the badge of Henry the Seventh, supported by a greyhound and a red dragon. Hence it would appear, that this particular manuscript was completed in the reign of that sovereign. Among the sonnets are three short " chansons^^ in English, which have been printed by Ellis, in the first volume of his " Speci- mens of the Early English Poets." SUFFOLK, OR NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE, STRAND. Suffolk House, or, as now called, Northumber- land House, stands on the ancient site of an Hospital or Chapel of St. Mary, founded in the time of Henry the Third, by William Mareschall, Earl of Pembroke, on a piece of ground which he had given to the priory of Rouncival, or De Rosida Falls, in Navarre. That Chapel, says Speed, was suppressed among the alien priories in the reign of Henry the Fifth, but it was afterwards restored for a Fraternity by Edward the LOXDINIANA. 275 FourUi. After the Dissolution, its site, according to Tanner, -was granted by Edward the Sixth, in the third year of his reign, to Thomas Car warden. This estate afterwards came into the possession of Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton, Lord Privy Seal, who erected a splendid mansion thereon, designated JSfoTthampLon House, in which he died in 1614. From that nobleman it descended to his kinsman, Thomas Howard, of Walden, Earl of Suffolk, when it received the name of Suffolk House, and was so called until the marriage of Elizabeth, the daughter of Tlieophilus, second Earl of Suffolk, with Algernon Percy, tenth Earl of Northumberland, in the year 1642, when it was transferred into that family, and has since acquired the name of Northumberland House. This edifice originally formed three sides of a spa- cious quadrangle, the fourth side remaining open to the gardens and river Thames. Its reputed architect was Bernard Jansen ; but the frontispiece near the street has been ascribed to Gerard Christmas, who de- signed Aldersgate, which was rebuilt in the same reign, namely, that of James the First. At that pe- riod, the principal apartments were on the Strand side ; but after the estate became the property of Earl Alger- non (who disliked the noise of so public a thorough- fare), the quadrangle was completed by a fourth side, (including the state rooms) towards the river, under the direction of Inigo Jones. The entire pile was built in a mixed style of architecture, and had dome-crowned towers at the angles, in the Dutch style. Evelyn, in his "Diary," under the date 1654, T 2 -76 LONDINIANA. when speaking of Audley End, in Essex, which had been erected by the Lord Treasurer Suffolk, says, *' instead of railes and balusters, there is a bordure of capital letters, as was lately also on Suffolk House, neere Charing Crosse, built by the same Lord Treas^"* There is also another passage in the same " Diary,''' relating to this mansion, under the date June 8, 1658. " I went," says Evelyn, " to see the Earl of Northum- berland's pictures, whereof that of y® Venetian Senators, [the Cornaro Family, which is still one of the greatest or- naments of this mansion, and of which there is a fine print by Baron], and another of Andrea del Sarto, viz. a Madona, Christ, St. John, and an Old Woman, &c. ; a St. Catharine, of Da Vinci, with divers Portraits by Vandyke ; a Nativity, by Georgione ; the last of our blessed kings, Charles I., and y" Duke of York, by Lely ; a Rosarie, by y® famous Jesuits of Bruxelles ; and severall more. This was in Suffolk House, the new front towards y^ gardens is tollerable, were it not drown'd by a too massie and clomsie pair of stayres of stone, without any neate inven- tion." f • Walpole coDceives that the letters spoken of expressed the name and titles of the Earl of Northampton (the founder of this house), in Latin. It is probable that they were taken down when Inigo Jones completed the quadrangle for Earl Algernon. Camden states, that at the funeral of Queen Anne, of Denmark, (James the First's consort), a young man among the specta- tors Mas killed by tfie fall of the letter S from iJie top of North- ampton House. Vide " Annates Jacobi Regis,'" p. 45, 4to. This shews that the border of capitals was on the screen, or frontispiece, next the Strand. t This collection of pictures has been greatly increased since Evelyn's time, and now forms a very magnificent assemblage. There is, likewise, a very noble library in this mansion. LONDINIANA. 277 In the spring of 1660, after General Monk had taken up his quarters at Whitehall, he was invited to this house by Earl Algernon, and here, in secret con- ference with him and other nobihty and gentry, some of those measures were concerted which led to the speedy restoration of the monarchy. On the 7th of February 1749-50, this estate, with the title of Earl of Northumberland, devolved upon Sir Hugh Smithson, Bart., by the decease of Algernon, seventh Duke of Somerset, his father-in-law. That gentleman, pursuant to an Act of Parliament, passed in the same year, assumed the name and arms of the illustrious race of Percy ; and on the 18th of October 1 766 f he was elevated to the Dukedom of Northum- berland. Considerable improvements were made here by that nobleman ; two new wings were annexed to the garden front, the quadrangular court was faced with stone, and great part of the northern front was rebuilt ; but the central division, which includes the entrance gate- way, still exhibits the original work of Gerard Christ- mas, and is a curious example of his time. Many other alterations and repairs have been since made, and particularly after the fire here in March 1780, which consumed most of the upper rooms on the Strand, or northern side. SCOTLAND YARD. Scotland Yard derives its name from an ancient Palace of the Kings of Scotland, formerly standing on the spot, which, on the authority of Strype, who quotes from a pamphlet printed in 1548, was built by Kynald, or Kenneth III, King of Scotland, in the year 959, on 278 LONDINIANA. a piece of ground which had been granted him for that purpose by King Edgar, to whom he did homage for his kingdom, and by whom he was enjoined to come every year into England, to assist in the '* forming of laws."* His posterity enjoyed it till the reign of Henry the Second, when, in consequence of the defec- tion of WiUiam the First, then King of Scotland, it was forfeited to the English crown. It eventually became the residence of Margaret, sister of Henry the Vnith., upon the death of her husband, James the IVth. of Scotland, who was slain at Flodden Field in 1513. The same Queen was also entertained here with great mao-nificence, at the reconciliation with her brother, on her second marriage with Archibald Douglas, Earl of Angus. It was afterwards deserted as a royal abode, and the old buildings gradually gave place to other and meaner erections, which occupied the ground until a recent period. In Charles the Second's reign, Scotland Yard formed an adjunct to Whitehall, as may be seen by referring to the ground plot of that Palace in the present volume. It was then inhabited, anno 1630, by officers and other per- * The Scottish Kings appear to have been anciently regarded as members of the English Parliament ; and there are instances among the Tower records, of the issuing of writs to summon their attendance. In Pinkerton's " Iconographia Scotica" is an en- graved representation of Edward the First sitting in Parliament with Alexander, King of Scots, on his right, and Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, on his left hand : this is stated to have been taken from a copy of an ancient limning, formerly in the English College of Arms. When the Scottish Sovereigns, in later times, attended to do homage for their fiefs of Cumberland and West- moreland, they usually lodged in their Palace in Scotland Yard, LOMDINIANA. 279 sons belonging to the Court, amongst whom was Sir John Denham, the Surveyor Genral ; the Comptroller of the Works, the master carpenter, glazier, and mason, clerk of the works, poulterers, &c.* The celebrated Sir John Vanburgh had a house in Scotland Yard, in 1708, which excited the ridicule of several of his contemporary wits, and particularly of Dean Swift, who wrote two satirical poems on the sub- ject, in one of which he says : " Now Poets from all quarters ran, To see the house of brother Van ; Look'd high and low, walkM often round. But no such house was to be found : One asks the waterman hard by, " Where may the Poet" s palace lie ?" Another of the Thames inquires If he has seen its gilded spires? At length they in the rubbish spy A thing resembling a Goose-pyeP * As Edward, Lor I Herbert of Cherbury, was riding through Scotland Yard, in James the First's reign, attended by two of his lackies, he was attacked by Sir John Ayres and four ruflSans, who attempted to assassinate him, upon an ill grounded sus- picion of a criminal connection between him and the Lady Ayres. Lord Herbert defended himself (one of his servants having imme- diately fled,) with great bravery, and a great partof the time with little more than the hilt of his sword, which had been broken in the commencement of the affray ; and, at last, with the assistance of some gentlemen, who came up during the struggle, he put his assailants to flight, but not until he had received a stab in the right side. Sir John Ayres was afterwards apprehended, for this attempted murder; but it does not appear that he was ever brought to punishment. J280 LONDINIANA. This fabric, which was erected according to the peculiar taste of Sir John, was a mixture of the Grecian and Gothic styles of architecture ; yet not by any means so conteniptible as the Dean's satire would indicate. In the annexed print, which was copied from a large engraving by Edward Rooker, Scotland Yard is represented as it appeared about 1770 ; but nearly all the old buildings have been demolished, and an entire new character given to this spot by the erection of new streets, and large and handsome houses, within the last eight or ten years. ST. James's church, Piccadilly. This edifice, which has nothing exteriorly to re- commend it, possesses one of the most elegant int&riors that the metropolis, perhaps, can display. It was erected by our great architect. Sir Christopher Wren, and is one of the best constructed and most perfect of his designs. It was founded in the latter part of the reign of Charles Ilnd, by Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Alban's, as a chapel of ease to St. Martin's, and con- secrated July the 13th, 1684. In the first year of the succeeding reign it was made parochial, by an Act of Parliament, intituled, "^ An Act for erecting a New Parish, to be called the parish of St. James* s, within the Liberty of Westminster :^^ thus making another di- vision of the immense parish of St. Martin in the Fields, from which St. Paul's, Covent Garden, had been previously severed. LONDINIANA. 281 The exterior is principally of brick-work, but has rustic quoins and other facings of Portland stone. At the west end is a tower, surmounted by a clock spire, rising to the height of about 150 feet. The interior is divided into a nave, and two aisles, by a double range of Corinthian columns, placed on square pa- nelled piers, which serve also to support the galleries ; from these pillars spring a semicircular arched roof, divided into sunk and enriched panels, and intersected by arches which run through to the external walls. At the east end, over the altar, is a large window, ori- ginally designed for Raffaelle's celebrated Transfigura- tion : it consists of two stories of columns, the lower- most of which is of the Corinthian order ; the upper (the centre intercolumniation of which is connected by a semicircular arch) is of the Composite order. The body of the church, which is 84 feet in length, 68 feet in breadth, and 40 feet in height, is capable of containing 2,000 persons, with ease and comfort. The organ, which is of superior excellence, was the gift of Queen Mary in 1691 ; it is said to have been made by order of King James, and designed for his Catholic Chapel at Whitehall. The carving of the altar-piece is the work of that celebrated artist, Gribe- lin Gibbons, and is deserving of great praise, parti- cularly the foliage. The enclosure of the altar is of white marble, ornamented with pierced scrolls of bronze.* • The scrolls were formerly of marble, but during some late repairs of the cburcb, they vvere so much dilapidated as to require f?82 LOXDINIANA. The Baptismal Font, also from the chisel of Gibbons, is a most beautiful specimen of art. It is sculptured in white marble, and is between four and five feet in height ; the circumference at the top of the basin is about six feet. The shaft which supports it represents the Tree of Life, with the serpent twining round it, and offering the fatal apple to Eve, who, together with Adam, are recHning against it : these figures, which are most delicately sculptured, are about eighteen inches in height. On the basin are sculptured three scriptu- ral subjects in basso-relievo : viz. — St. John baptizing our Saviour, the baptizing of the Eunuch by St. Philip, and the Ark of Noah, with tiie dove bearing the olive branch, the type of peace to mankind There seems formerly to have been a pipe passing down the shaft from the interior, secured by a plug, in order to carry off the water. This font, as appears from the annexed print (copied from Vertue's engraving) had formerly a suspended cover, ornamented with foliage, and sur- mounted by the figure of an angel in the act of flying, above which, on the chain which suspended it, were a group of four cherubs.* Evelyn, in his " Diary," thus notices the altar of this church : — " December 16th, 1684, I went to see the removal, when their place was supplied by similar ones in bronze. * This cover is said to have been stolen about thirty years ago ; but, however that may be, it was subsequently hung up as a kind of sign, at a spirit shop, in the immediate neighbourhood of the Church. L0NDINIAN.\. 283 New Church at St. James's, elegantly built ; the allar was especialy adorn'd, the white marble enclosure curiously and richly carved, the flowers and garlands about the walls, by Mr. Gibbons, in wood ; a pelican, with her young at her breast, just over the altar, in the carv'd compartment and border, invironing the purple velvet fringed, with I. H. S. richly embroder'd, and most noble plate, were given by Sir R. Geere, to the value (as was said) of £200. There was no altar any where in England, nor has there been any abroad, more handsomely adorned." BLACK FRIARS, NEAR HOLBORN. — LINCOLN'S INN. On part of the ground now occupied by Lincoln's Inn, the Friars Preachers, or Black Friars, had for- merly an establishment, or Home, as the phrase was. That Order first came into England, in 1221, and set- tled " without the Wall of the City, by Oldbourne, near unto the old Temple." Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, was a great benefactor to this foundation, to which he gave his palace at Westminster, and was afterwards buried in their church ; Margaret, the widow of Geffery, Earl Marshal], and sister to the King of Scotland, was also interred there. " In the yeere 1250," says Stow, '* the Fryers of this Order of Preachers, thorough Christendome, and from Jersusa- lem, were by a Conuocation assembled together, at this their house by Oldbourne, to entreat of their estate, to the number of 400, hauing meate and drinke found them of Almes, because they had no possessions of 284 LONDI^IANA. their owne. The first day the King came to their Chapter, found them meate and drinke, and dined with them. Another day the Queene found them meate and drinke ; afterward tlie Bishop of London, then the Abbot of Westminster, of S. Albans, Waltham, and others. In the yeere 1276, Gregory Rokesley, Maior, and the Barons of London, granted, and gave to Robert Kilwerhiji Archbishop of Canterburie, two lanes or waies next the street of Baynards Castell, and the Tower of Mountfichet to be destroyed. On the which place the said Robert builded the late new Church, with the rest of the Stones that were left of the said Tower. And thus the Black Fryers left their Church and House by Oldbourne, and departed to their new."* In the 16th of Edward the First, the old House of the Black Fryars was given by the King to Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, on the grounds or site of which he erected an Inn, where he frequently resided and died in 1310. Tradition says, that this Earl being " a per- son well affected to the study of the Law" assigned Lincoln'' s Inn, as it was called, to the Professors of the Law, as a residence; and they afterwards acquired a considerable part of the adjoining demesne, southward, of the Bishops of Chichester.j That estate had originally belonged to a John Heriirum, or Herlizini, but having been forfeited to Henry the Third, was granted by him --* Stow's "Survey," p. 825 ; edit. 1618. t Chichester Place, on the west side of Cbancerj' Lane, and Bishop's Court, opposite to it on the east side, still indicate the exact site of the aucient Palace and Gardens of the Bishop of Chichester. LONDINFANA. 285 in 1228, to Ralph de Nova Villa, or Neville, Lord Chancellor and Bishop of Chichester. Richard Sampson, who held that See in Henry the Eighth's reign, sold the inheritance of this House, with an attached Garden, called Coiterel Garden, to the brothers William and Eustace Sulgard, who were eminent legal practitioners, and his grant was confirmed by the Dean and Chapter of Chichester. Sir Edward Sulgard, knt. the son and heir of Eustace, conveyed the whole, in the 22nd of Elizabeth's reign, to the Benchers and Society of Lincoln's Inn, in fee, for the sum of £520. The most ancient part of Lincoln's Inn, is the Hall, which was erected in 1506 : it is 62 feet in length, and 32 feet in breadth ; the windows, which are in the pointed style, contain numerous coats of arms. At the upper end, over the bench occupied by the Lord Chan- cellor, who occasionally holds his court here, is Hogarth's picture of Paul hefore Felix. The Gate- house in Chancery- lane was erected in 1518, by Sir Thomas Level, knt., a fellow of, and also a great bene- factor to, this Inn ; but its venerable appearance has been much deteriorated by the modern alterations of the windows. It is a brick building, with square towers on the flanks ; over the pointed archway, towards the street, are the royal arms, with those of De Lacy on the dexter, and of Sir Thomas Lovel on the sinister side; underneath is the date 1518. The Chapel wb.s erected in 1623, from the designs of Inigo Jones, but in 1791 it underwent great alterations and repairs, under the superintendence of Mr. Wyatt. In the win- dows are many emblazoned coats of arms. Underneath 286 LOKDTNTAXA the chapel are the cloisters, which, until 1791, was the general hurial place of the Society, but since that period the benchers only have had the privilege of interment there. Searle's Court, or what is now denominated Lincoln's Inn New Square (which occupies the space formerly called Fickett's Place, or Little Lincoln's Inn Fields), was finished in 1697 : it was principally built by Henry Searle, Esq., whose arms, with those of the Lnn, are over the gateway next Carey Street. In the centre of this square, v/hich is neatly gravelled, was formerly an ornamental column and fountain, as shewn in the annexed print. It was erected from a design by Inigo Jones, and was of the Corinthian order, with a sun-dial placed at the top : at the angles of the pedes- tal were infant Tritons, who spouted water from their shells: its place is now occupied by a gas-lamp. Stone Buildings is a handsome range of houses, facing the gardens, which was erected by the late Sir Robert Taylor, and forms part of a general plan which w^as then in contemplation for rebuilding the entire Inn. They are let out as chambers, and likewise con- tain the Library of the Society, v/hich consists of books and manuscripts, chiefly collected by Sir Matthew Hale. Adjoining to this range is the Six Clerks Office, a handsome structure of stone, situated on the west side of Chancery-lane : this office was formerly held in a building called the Herfitt Inn, which stood oppo- site the Rolls Office. Lincoln's Inn Gardens are extensive and pleasant ; on the western side is a raised terrace. LONUTNTANA. S87 CLERKENWELL CLOSE. — CROMWELL PLACE. On the west side of Clerkenwcll Close, about thirty years ago, stood the old brick Buildings, represented in the annexed print, in the raiddleraost of which, the Protector, Oliver Cromwell, is traditionally said to have been once a resident ; but there does not appear to be any valid ground for that report.* It is probable that, originally, the three houses formed only one mansion, consisting of a recessed centre with wings ; yet the for- mer, with its twin stacks of large chimneys in front, and plain parapet, had an air of greater age than the other parts. One of the most notorious occupants of this division, was the well-known trading justice, Mr. Wil- liam Blackborough, who died there, at an advanced age, on the 16th of September, 1794. Both himself, and Mr. Justice Girdler, who lived on the south side of Clerken well Green, had hired barkers, (like the second- hand-clothes dealers of Monmouth Street,) patrolling near their doors in quest of customers ; and they would both occasionally give credit for warrants, to encourage litigation, and promote the obtaining of fees. This house was nearly destroyed a few years ago, by * " There is scarcely a village near London," says Lysous, " in which there is not one house, at least, appropriated by tra- dition to Cromwell, though there is no ]ierson to whom they might be appropriated with less probability. During the whole of the Civil Wars, Cromwell was with the army ; when he was Protector, he divided his time between Whitehall and Hampton Court."— Lysons's " Environs of London," vol. i. p. .370. ^88 LONDINIANA. an accidental fire, when inhabited by a stove-grate maker ; and has been since repaired in a different style. Cromwell Place, a small contiguous court, has its name from the tradition noticed above. SALTERS' COMPANY. AND HALL. The Salter s' Company, although of considerable antiquity, as appears from a grant of a Livery made by Richard the Second, in 1394, was not regularly incorporated till the reign of Queen Elizabeth ; but that Princess, in the year 1558, granted them a Charter, under the appellation of " The Master, Wardens, and Commonalty of the Art or Mystery of Sailers, of London.'* The Members are " usually termed Dry- Salters, and deal in logwood, cochineal, potashes, and, in short, in almost every chemical preparation."* They are governed by a Master, two V/ardens, and a Court of Assistants. Salters' Hall, which stands on the west side of Oxford Court, St. Swithin's Lane, and has been very recently rebuilt, is the fourth that has bc4onged to this Company. The original Hall stood in Bread Street, and was destroyed by fire, in 1539; as was, also, the " re-edified" building, in the conflagration of 1666. The site of the present edifice was formerly occupied by the mansion and gardens of the Prior of Tortington, which, after the Dissolution, was granted to John de Vere, Earl of Oxford, and thence obtained the appel- lation of Oxford Place. Edward, his grandson, dis- * Vide Malcolm's " Loud. Rcdivivum," vol iv, p. 023. LOXIJINIANA. 289 sipated his great inheritance, from motives of pique and indignant feeling against Lord Burghley, whose daughter he had married ; and this estate was pur- chased by Sir Jolm Hart, who kept his Mayoralty here in 1589. His eldest daughter married Sir George Bolles, Lord Mayor in 1617, and their descendants alienated the premises to the Salters' Company, by whom the late Hall, or that represented in the annexed engraving, was erected, after the destruction of the ancient buildings in the Great Fire. It was a small edifice of brick, the entrance opening under an arcade of three arches, springing from square pillars, fluted. The new Hall, which is of stone, was built by Henry Carr, Esq., architect, between the years 1823 and 1827; and it was opened on the 23d of May, in the latter year. The portico, which consists of four columns of the Ionic order, supporting an entabla- ture, &c., is surmounted by the Company's arms and supporters.* From the entrance hall, which is very spacious, a handsome flight of stairs ascends to the Great Hall, which is a lofty and elegant apartment, partly coved, and having a magnificent chandelier, twenty-two feet in height, suspended from a small lantern-light, in the centre. At the east end are carved * The Salter's arms are, per chevrou, azure and gules, three covered salts, or, sprinkling argent : supporters, leopards, each gorged with a crown, chained ; crest, a man's hand, holding a salt, as the former : molto, Sal sapit Omnia. The arras were granted in the 20th 5ear of Henry VIll, by Thomas Benoilr, Clareucieux ; ihe crest and supporters, by Robert Cooke, ClU" rencieiix, in 1-587, VOL. II. U f ^ ° ^ ^ Braylcys LOBGE OF SIH PAITL PINIDEH, A301: i>o' Hurst. Zdw.' Chance & C'Londcn . :7. Tho^ HurscEd-w^Qiatice & C London . u-^' ^ 0- \^ SOUTHPDM"ilSJ:?i!>' °' California lARYQc, .^tUBRARYO/c^ ^\\EUNIVER% ^lOSWrtifr. UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY ^OFCALlfO/?/j^ ^OfCALlfOto ^ ^&Ayvagni^ ^TiuoNvsoi^ ^lOSANCElfj'^ %a3AiNniwv^ ^ ^VlOSANCElfx^ ^>^HIBRARYQ^ ^>^UIBRARY6K ^TOnvj-jo"^ ^(yOJIlVDJO"^ ^ViOSANCElfx^ "^/^iiaAiNniwv ^OFCAIIFO/?^ ^OFCALIFO/?^ >&Aavaan-^^ -«, .^ILIBRARYO^-, .^WEUNIVER5'/A vvlOSANCElfjb.