LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SANTA BARBARA PRESENTED BY MRS. DONALD KELLOGG Tid' jS Srf''jjef; d'vSJ/o.Tp^ HeiiMslby CASTiiE, Yorkshire, mxtxts ^ (^:^ (!c,J3 S M^M ^ 2 m nj Winks , voL.yra.. Ifonbon.prhttcb for Hooper & Wigs te ad,N?212. High Holborn . fecni«! Xonffiamptort .ftripet. /itoonishtiry Jymuv. . 8 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY INDEX, VOL. VIIL Name of the Abbey, CasUe, Monastery, Priory, or Ruin, &c. Point of View. Gregory's (St.) Priory, Canterbury Maidstone Bridge - plates I and 2. Sandgate Castle White Friars, Canterbury LEICESTERSHIRE. Mary (St.) de Pratis, (Abbey at Leicester Ditto MIDDLESEX. °^) I plate S. plate 2. Gateway, called King John's Castle Savoy Church - - plates 1 and 2. MONMOUTHSHIRE. ,Uske Castle - - NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. Holdenby House - - .. OXFORDSHIRE. Isley, Eysley, or Yftele Church • RUTLANDSHIRE. Tickencote Church - • SHROPSHIRE, Stoke Castle ■ ' - - •; SOMERSETSHIRE. Combe Sydenham SUFFOLK, Clare Castle ... Ipswich, Town Hall of - - » Walton Castle - - SURREY, Catharine Hill Chapel, Inside View of Lambeth Palace, Plan of, see Vol. V. p. 105.* lOSo 122-^ 1143 ■5 ^ 3 5 c 12-15 15S3 175 s I /(a: 1 702 l/ob 17S4 View by whom taken. N. E. 746 Mr. Thorenby Mr. J. More Mr. J. More Mr. Day 110 W. N. 1775 i;6i 1/7-1 1785 1785 Mr. Lyscns 1786 1769 1740 1766 1750 Mr. Carter Mr. Lysons Mr. Richards Rev. Mr. Jones J. Reeves 3 Pare 99 101 101 lO'J 105 U4 112 11(3 11; 119 120* 121 123 124 126 127 129 * Should be placed with the Fiew in Vol. V. COUNTY IxNDEX, VOL. VIII. Name of the Abbey, Castle, Monastery, Priory, or Euin, &c. Point of View. SUSSEX. Brede Place - • Crowhuistj Rains at ' Miche'.lum Priory - plates 1 and 2 Great Hall in Mayfield Palace lloberl"s IJridge Abbey Scotney Castle Stanstead Place N'erdlcy Castle, and Plan of Pevensey Castle, Bird's Eye View of* WARWICKSHIRE. Kenllw'orth Priory - plate 2. Maxtoke Castle WILTSHIRE. Council House, Sali^bl!ry Malmsbury Market Cross WORCESTERSHIRE. Great Malvern Priory YORKSHIRE. Caterick Bridge J-^lcilon Abbey - - - iJarvvood Caslle - j^litfs 1 and 2 llelmsley Castle, Frontispiece lo this \'olunK Hoveden, or Howden Church Jtavenswonh Castle - - plate 1 — — - plaie 2 Piotlierliam Bridge, Chapel on Salhiy Ahbey at Craven Snape Hail, near Bedale Tanlield Castle ISLE OF MAN', T iinvall Hill plate 1 plate 2 ISLAND OF JERSEY. Druids' Temple - - plate 1 V - = o 1 I7C W. I(;S I46J View by whom taken. '774 178-J 1/84 i/S.') 1/8: 1/78 17^4 17/3 i;;o I78i 1 7S.' 17hO l/Sl ^77i 17/- 1787 I78C 17/1 1 /'/"-* P.fgC Mr. Grimm Mr. J. More Ditto 131 Ditto Mr. J. More Mr. Vcrner Mr. Grimm Ditto Mr. Miller Mr. I.vsons Ditto Mr. Rowe Mr. J. More Ditto li/ Mr. Howe Lt. Col.IIicks Mr. Howe Mr. Grimm Maj.H. Rooke Mr. Rowe Ditto Mr. Griffith 130 133 132 i3:i 133 131 135 135 137 138 142 144 I4G 14rt 148 149 155 i5(i 157 l-'7 151) I5y l6l l(i2 163 Should be placed with the I'ieu: in Vol. V. FINIS. COUNTY INDEX TO SUPPLEMENT. ^ VOLUME viir. Name of tlie Abbey, Castle, Monastery, Priory, or Ruin, &c. BEDFORDSHIRE. Dnnstable Priory Ditto t)itto Gate Luton Tower plate I plate 2 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. Rarniiam Abbey Ditto - - - Medenham, or Madenham Abbey CORNWALL. Arwenacke House Fowey Town, Haven, and Castles — Ditto 'lie ( )uter, or St. Catlie- j fine's Castle - 3 Ditto Germain's (St.) Priory Ditto Port Eliot and St. Germain's Launcc:ston Casile ... Ditto Michael's (St.") Mount Ditto —— Dilto Diiio Chapel of ditto Inside ditto . Old Kort ditto Mount and Mount's Bay Pendennis Castle Pengersick Castle Ucstorniel Castle - - plate 2, 'IVematon Castle DERBYSHIRE. Bolsovcr Castle - - - ' DEVONSHIRE. Plymouth, Fort or Garrison of pla'e I plate 2 pl.Ue 1 plate 2. pLile 1. ])late 2. plate 1. j)late 2, j)l3te 1 plate 2 plate 1 plate 2 jJate 3 plate 4. Point of View. N. S. W. N. E. N. N. N. E. W. S. v.. E. 113 1165 1204 900 5(X) V 2 i"87 1787 17«7 1785 1735 1/80 1786 1780 1700 T86 View by whom taken. 1786 787 l/S/ 1780 1/80 I78t) 1780 Jl/SO 1780 1786 1786 1786 1786 17S6 1786 1780 1787 Mr. P. Sandby Mr. J. More Ditto Mr. S. Ireland Mr. Payne Miss Llioi t Mr. Pa)ne Mr. Payne 773 ^Ir. Grimm 17158 Pasre 10 II 12 14 Pi Ip Ij 16 2! 24 26 26 29 ^9 3.i 34 2? 3* 3 b- 40 41 4? 44 46 46 ■i9 51 VOL. VIII. 2 COUNTY INDEX, VOL. VIII. Name of the Abbey, Castle, Monastery, Priory, or Ruin, &c. DORSETSHIRE. Corst Castle, King's T^wer, frontispiece to 7 Vol. II. - - - - - 3 iohn of Gaunt'.s Kitchen at Great Canford Pomer);, or Poundbury Gamp, Dorchester Portland Old Castle Roman Amphitheatre, near Dorchester Winburne^ Twinborne, or Wymburn Minster \-i DURHAM. Gretham Hospital t- h »» i • Monks Weremouth - - ""' ESSEX. Dunmow (Litile) Priory Church Walden Castle . - - - iyalton\ (Church of) on the Naize GLOUCESTERSHIRE. Abbot of Cirencester's Villa, at Rodmarton Beverstone Castle - - - . - Iroii-Acton (Cross at) - - Stanley St. Leonard's, Priory and Kitchen Swithen's (St.) Church, near the Priory of Stanley St. Leonard HAMPSHIRE. Merdon Castle - - - - Porchester Church . - - - South Sea Castle . . . - Warblington Castle . . . - Winchester Castle - - - Winchester Old Minster, now the Cathedral HERTFORDSHIRE, Alban's (Sl) Abbey - - '•, Gate of ditto . . - Berghamsted Castle . . - Sopewell Nunnery, near St.Alban's KENT. Augustin's Monastery (ruined Offices at Canterbury Dover Castle, Plan of, see Vol.III.* * Should be placed Kith the Views in Vol, HI, page 35. X /ian.y J.-fin*. /E^i^sir» <^V.%^^..€% f. ^.^. ■/^Siirft\'^zxt /TftffiT TO THE PUBLIC. It is with the profoundest gratitude, for the many indulgencies I have experienced from the encouragers of this work, that I inform them it is at length finished; and hope I have, on my part, fulfilled my promise, that the Supplement should be better exe- cuted than the preceding volumes. It now only remains for me to mention the assistance I have received in descriptions and drawings, for which I here beg leave to return my most hearty thanks. Burnham Abbey, in Bucks, plates I. and II.; Leicester Abbey, plate II. ; the Gate in Old Ford, Middlesex, called King John's House; the ruins near Crowhurst ; those at Robert's Bridge, both in Sussex ; Egleston Abbey, and Harwood Castle, plates I. and II. in Yorkshire, were all drawn by James More, Esquire. Luton Tower, Bedfordshire, and Cardigan Castle, were drawn by Paul Sandby, Esq, and, by Mr. Grimm, Pontifract Church, Roach Abbey, Clifford's Tower, and the Chapel on Rotherham Bridge, Yorkshire ; Bolsover Castle, Derbyshire; the two plates of Beaurepaire, or Bear Park; Gretham Hospital; St. Cuthbert's Oratory, on Coquet Island, and Monks Weremouth, all in Dur- ham ; Tinemouth Priory, Northumberland ; the Bishop's Palace, Lincoln ; Lanthony Priory, Monmouthshire, and the Episcopal Palace at Southwell. Arundel Castle : the inside of Bodiam Castle ; Brede Place ; the Crypt at Bosham Church ; the Town Hall of Chichester, the Vicar's College, at the same place; East- burne Priory; the four plates of Hurstmonceaux ; the Great Hall at Mayfield Place ; Stanstead Place ; Yerdley Castle and Plan ; VOL. VIII. A Winchelsea 11 TO THE PUBLIC. Winchelsea Gate ; Ipres Tower at Rye, all in Sussex ; from the collection of William Burrell, Es(|. of that county. The castle of Longharne, Llanstephen, Caernarvon, and the Gate of Pem- broke Castle, with the Monasteries of Haverford-West ; Strata Florida, Margham, and the Palace of St. David, were likewise drawn by that ingenious artist. To my ingenious friend, Samuel Lysons, Esc;. F.A.S. I am obliged for the following drawings; the Cross at Iron-Acton ; the Kitchen of Stanley ; St. Leonard's Priory; St. Swithen's Church, Gloucestershire ; Uske Castle, Monmouthshire ; Stoke Castle, Shropshire ; Charlecombe Church, Somersetshire ; phite IIL of Malmsbury Abbey, and Malmsbury Cross, in Wiltshire ; Great Malvern Priory, Worcestershire ; Brecknock, Montgomery; Pen- line and St. Quintin's Castles ; 'I'he Cathedral of St. Asaph, and Powis Castle, plate IL By Samuel Ireland, Escj. 1 was favoured with his drawing of Medenham Abbey, Buckinghamshire; and, by the Rev. Mr. Street, with the drawing and account of Warblington Castle, Hants; to Mr. Day, junior, of York-street, Covent-Garden, I am indebted for the two views of the Chapel in the Savoy ; and to Mr. Richards for that of Combe Sydenham, Somersetshire. The views of St. Germain, plate 1. -, Port Eliot and Trematon Castle, all in Cornwall, were drawn by Mr. Payne of the drawing- room in the Tower, who bids fair, as an artist, to arrive at great eminence in his profession. The view of Haghmond Abbey in Shropshire, was drawn by Mr. Russel, and that of Tickencote Chapel (by permission) from a view, taken on the spot, by Mr. Carter, of College-street, West- minster. To Thomas Pennant, Esq. I am obliged for the ,foIlo;ving drawings taken by his draughtsman Mr. Moses Griffiths :; The Castle of Newark, Nottinghamshire ; Beaumaris Castle, plate III. ; the Great Gate of Caernarvon Castle ; Clynog Church ; Dohvy- dellan Castle ; Llandegai Church ; Denbeigh Castle ; Bangor Mona- TO THEPUBLIC. iii Monachorum ; Flint Castle ; Dolforwyn Castle ; Montgomery Castle, plate II. and the Tinewald Hill, in the Isle of Man, plate II. St. Germain's Church, plate II. I owe to the favour of the Reverend Mr. Chancellor Carrington, of St. Helion's near Exeter. It was drawn by the Hon. Miss Eliot. To him likewise I am obliged for a description of that venerable edifice. Maxtoke Castle, Warwickshire, was engraved from a draw- ing made by that well-known artist, Mr. Miller ; Ravensworth Castle, Yorkshire, from a view taken by my worthy friend the late Lieutenant-Colonel Hicks of the 70th regiment. Snape Hall, Helmesley Castle, Caterick Bridge, the Keep of Richmond Castle, Ravensworth Castle, plate II. Tanfield Castle, and the Vignette to the sixth volume, were all taken from the drawings of Mr. Rowe of Pershore in Worcestershire. The Abbey of Sallay in Yorkshire, and King John's House at Clypeston,in Nottinghamshire, were drawn by my muchrespected friend Major Hayman Rooke ; Knaresborough Castle, Yorkshire by Tarrent, Esq. of the corps of engineers, and commu- nicated by Thomas Maude, Esq. and the Church of Wallon-on- the-Naize by Mr. Beck, of the drawing-room in the Tower ; Clare Castle, Suffolk, by the Rev, Mr. Jones ; and the description was given me by Tho. Ruggles, of Clare, in Suffolk, Esq. Mayfield Place, plates I. and II. were drawn by that excel- lent draughtsman Mr. Kenyon, author of the Antiquities of Here- fordshire. The plan of Richmond Castle was made by Mr. Bailey, whom I have before mentioned ; he also drew Branspeth Castle, Durham. Eastbury House, Waltham Abbey, Rye House, plates I. and If. and Latton Priory, with the descriptions, were all given me by Forster, Esq. to whom I have had occasion in a former volume to make my acknowledgments for similar favours. The drawing of Our Lady's Mount, near Lynn, in Norfolk, was sent IV TO THE PUBLIC. sent me by the late Rev. Mr. Tyson ; for the account I am beholden to Governor Pownal. For Plate I. of Leicester, I am obliged to Mr. John Throsby of that place, and, for St. Sampson's Church, in the Isle of Guernsey, to J. Gosselin, Esq. of that Island. Queenborough Castle was taken from an original drawing by Holler, and the view of Castle Cornet, before its demolition by the blowing up of the magazine, from an ancient drawing ; and Plate I. of Restormel Castle, from an original picture belonging to the owner, Masterman, Esq. All the rest of the views were drawn by myself. ISthSept. 1737. TllF. ANTIOUITI ES OP ENGLAND AND WALES. BEDFORDSHIRE. DUNSTAPLE or DUNSTABLE PRIORY. (Plate I.) The scite of this monastery was, it is said, at the time of the conquest, a wild waste, over-run with wood, serving as a shelter to divers bands of outlaws and robbers. King Henry I. in order to prevent their depredations, and to destroy their shelter, resolved to cause the woods to be grubbed up, and the place to be settled with inhabitants ; he therefore issued proclamations, inviting people to settit; here, and informing them that they should have land at the annual rent of twelve-pence the acre, with the same privileges for themselves and heirs as were enjoyed by the citizens of London, or any other town in England. He also built here a royal palace called Kingsbury, which stood near the church, where in 1223 he held his Christmas in great state, with his whole court, and received an embassy from the Earl of Anjou. He made the town a borough, bestowed on it a fair and a market, •whence some deiive its name as compounded of Dun, a hill, and staple, a place of merchandize or commerce. Others indeed deduce it from Dunning, a famous robber wholurked about these VOL. VIII. B woods 2 BEDFORDSHIRE. woods ; thence, as they say, called Dunning's stable. The town being built, was in the king's hands, as a free borough, seventeen years and a half. The burgesses were by the king made free throughout England, and were not liable to answer before the king's justices itinerant, or any other of his servants out of the town or liberty ; but tliejustices went thither, and chterniined all suits without any foreign assessor, by the oath of twelve of the townsmen. These privileges, when the town was in the hands of the monks, were several times called in question by the justices and king's servants, particularly in 1286. The last step towards completing the settlement of this place was the foundation and endowment of this monastery ; which 'I'anner says was done towards the latter end of the reign of this king ; or, according to other writers, son)ctime after the year 1131 ; it consisted of black canons, and was dedicated to the honour of St. Peter : To them Henry granted the whole manor of Dun- staple, with the lands pertaining to the town, viz. four cultural of land round the town, the market and schools of the said town, with all its liberties and free customs ; sac, soc, tol, thtavi, infun- genethef, guthbrith, hamsoctie, clonith, forstal, and Jiemenes ferd, right of Cadendone, Kens worth, and Totenhoe; and the four ways (quadraria) of the said town, with safe passage to the mar- ket, under pain of forfeiting 10/. He further granted them leave to hold what they could purchase, and exemption for themselves and servants for all taxes due to the shire and hundred, county fines for murder, tollage, pleas, geld and danegelds, hydage, toll, passage, pontage, stallage, and all customs and secular exactions, and worldly services through the realm. The king reserved to himself only his houses in the town, and the garden where he used to lodge. This charter is witnessed by Robert Bishop of Hereford, Simon Bishop of Worcester, G. Chancellor, Robert de Sigillo, N. the Bishop's nephew, Milo of Gloucester, Hum- phry de Bohun, G. Fitz Paine, Robert Fitz John,Dragode Mon- cei, and Maurice de Windsor, at Cumba [Comb Abbey.] These BEDFORDSHIRE 3 These grants were confirmed by Henry II, Henry III. and John. The latter prince gave then> his royal palace here, and a fair for three days on St. Frchenuind's feast, as did Henry III. the picas and fines of the town, and appointed that the prior shonid sit with the king's justices, and have his clerk and enrollment of writs. All these several privileges were enjoyed by the convent and town, and many of the inhabitants were tenants in capitc, and other tenants in fee to the prior. The church was all along taxed at 100s. the town the same sum, and the profits of the market at the same. Three parts of the town stand on the fee of Houghton (now a mean village below Dunstable to the south, in a deep chalky soil), for which Henry I. gave the tenants of that place part of his wood at Buckwood ; the fourth part to the south is reputed of the fee of Kenesworth. In this priory were altars dedicated to St. Mary, St. Frehemund king and martyr, St. Nicholas, and St. James ; and about Easter 1212, say the annals of this house, many miracles were wrought here by God and St. Frehemund. It seems that the reliquesof this saint were on their way to Canterbury, but by some miracle they could get no farther than Dunstaple. In June 1221 the roof of the presbytery, which had been re- paired the autumn before, fell in ; and, in December, fell down two towers in the front of the church, one on the prior's hall, and destroyed most of it; the other on the church, which it shat- tered. The priors of this house, recorded by Browne "Willis in his History of Mitred Abbies, are Thomas, who occurs IIQG, died 1205. Richard de Morins, elected September 1203, died 124*?. ^^'illiam, prior of Dunstaple, 1233. Galfridus de Piarton, canon of Dunstaple, resigned 12(53. Simon de Eton, died 10 eal. Novembris 1274. William de Brettonor Brolhon, confirmed prior 8 id. Novembris 1271. 2 BEDFORDSHIRE. woods ; thence, as they say, called Dunning's stable. The town being built, was in the king's hands, as a free borough, seventeen years and a half. The burgesses were by the king made free throuchnnt Eno-land, and were not liable to ans\ver before the king's justices itinerant, or any other of his servants out of the town or liberty ; but the justices went thither, and determined all suits without any foreign assessor, by the oath of twelve of the townsmen. These privileges, when the town was in the hands of the monks, were several times called in question by the justices and king's servants, particularly in 1286. The last step towards completing the settlement of this place was the foundation and endowment of this monastery ; which Tanner says was done towards the latter end of the reign of this king; or,according to other writers, sometime after the year 1131; it consisted of black canons, and was dedicated to the honour of St. Peter : To them Henry granted the whole manor of Dun- staple, with the lands pertaining to the town, viz. four culture of land round the town, the market and schools of the said town, with all its liberties and free customs ; sac, soc, tol, theam, infan- genethef, giithbrith, hamsociie, clouitli,forstal, and Jiemenes ferd, right of Cadendone, Kensworth, and Totenhoe; and the four ways (qiiadraria) of the said town, with safe passage to the mar- ket, under pain of forfeiting 10/. He further granted them leave to hold what they could purchase, and exemption for themselves and servants for all taxes due to the shire and hundred, county fines for murder, tollage, pleas, geld and dancgelds, hydage, toll, passage, pontage, stallage, and all customs and secular exactions, and worldly services through the realm. The king reserved to himself only his houses in the town, and the garden where he used to lodge. This charter is witnessed by Robert Bishop of Hereford, Simon Bishop of Worcester, G. Chancellor, Robert de Sigillo, N, the Bishop's nephew, Milo of Gloucester, Hum- phry de Bohun, G. Fitz Paine, Robert Fitz John,Dragode Mon- cei, and Maurice de Windsor, at Cumba [Comb Abbey.] These BEDFORDSHIRE 3 These grants were confirmed by Henry II. Henry III. and John. The latter prince gave thcni his royal palace here, and a fair for three days on St. Freheniund's feast, as did Henry III. the picas and fines of the town, and appointed that the prior should sit with the king's justices, and have his clerk and enrollment of writs. All these several privileges were enjoyed by the convent and town, and many of the inhabitants were tenants in capite, and other tenants in fee to the prior. The church was all along taxed at IOO5. the town the same sum, and the profits of the market at the same. Three parts of the town stand on the fee of Houghton (now a mean village below Dunstable to the south, in a deep chalky soil), for which Henry I. gave the tenants of that place part of his wood at Buckwood ; the fourth part to the south is reputed of the fee of Kenesworth. In this priory were altars dedicated to St. Mary, St.Frehemund king and martyr, St. Nicholas, and St. James ; and about Easter 1212, say the annals of this house, many miracles were wrought here by God and St. Frehemund. It seems that the reliquesof this saint were on their way to Canterbury, but by some miracle they could get no farther than Dunstaple. In June 1221 the roof of the presbytery, which had been re- paired the autumn before, fell in ; and, in December, fell down two towers in the front of the church, one on the prior's hall, and destroyed most of it; the other on the church, which it shat- tered. The priors of this house, recorded by Browne "Willis in his History of Mitred Abbies, are Thomas, who occurs 1196, died 1205. Richard de Morins, elected September 1203, died 124'?. \A'illiam, prior of Dnnslaple, 1233. Galfridus de Fiarton, canon of Dunstaple, resigned 1263. Simon de Eton, died 10 cal. Novembris 1274. William de Brettonor Broihon, confirmed prior 8 id. Novembris 1274, 4. BEDFORDSHIRE. 1274, lived seven years after he resigned, 1280, and dying 1288, was buried in the chapter-house. ^^ illiani do ^Vederhous, ^\■edc^hose, Wadcrour or Waderhyr, nominated 8 cal. IVbruarii 1280, on the resignation of Breton. He resigned 1302 or (as Chron. Dun. p. 658) 1303. John de Chedington, confirmed 8 id. Decembris 1304, died 1341. John dc Ijondon, elected 13-H, resigned 1348. Roger de Gravenhurst, confirmed 2 id. Aprilis 1348, died 1351. Thomas Marshall, elected and admitted 7 id. Octobris 1358, died Octol)er 12, 1413. John Aston succeeded, and died in six weeks. John Roxton or Royston, confirmed Dec. 18, 1413. Thomas Giles resigned 1482. He had been presented by John Broughton, Esq. to the church of Leighton Bosard, on the re- signation of John Gyrton, July 28, 1473. Richard Charnock, Oct. 31, 1482, occurs 494, and quitted it for the priory of Christ-Church, London, April 28, 1473. William W'esthall, confirmed 1497, occurs 1501, dieci 1525. Gcrvas Markham, the last prior. He was an active man in Henry VHl.'s divorce, which was transacted in his monastery, as divers of our historians can testify; and in Rymer's Fcedra may be seen some commissions directed to him October 17, 1534. 26 Henry VHI. he, with Thomas Claybroke and eleven others, subscribed to the king's supremacy, and continuing till the disso- lution 1539, had, on the surrender of his monastery, a pension of 60/. assigned him for life. He appears to have been possessed of it in 1553, and was buried in the church here, September 23, 1581. At the dissolution, the revenues of this priory were rated in a valuation taken a little before that event, at 344/. I3s. 3d. per ann. according, I I i3 li E D F O R D S II I R E. 5 according to Dugdale ; Speed estimates it, 402/. 14s. 7d. ob. The scite was granted 1st of Mary, to Sir Leonard Cliamberlayne ; it lias since belonged to Mr. Crawley, Cook, Esq. and Mr. Vaux. By letters patent, 6 Edw. VI. the rectory and advowson of the vicarage of Dunstaple Avere granted to AVindsor College. It is now in the crown, and worth about 100/. per annum, and was not charged in the king's books ; the certified value 50/. Annual Pensions paid to the following Monks of this Mouse: £. s. d. Thomas Cleybroke ---------90O Richard Kerke 800 Augustine Curtis ----------800 George Edwards ------- ---7OO John Stalworth 700 Richard Bowstood ---------700 Edward Green ----------600 Robert Somer -----------600 JohnNyxe ------------568 Nicholas Cleybroke 200 John Percivall 200 This view, which shews the north-west aspect, was drawn A. O. 1760. DUNSTAPLE OR DUNSTABLE PRIORY. (Plate II.) Of this priory little remains but part of the conventual church, and a small distance south-west of two arches of a porter's lodge or gateway. The front of the church is singular aad picturesque. The great VOL VIII. c door 6 BEDFORDSHIRE. door is under a semi-oval arcli, richly ornamented with various grotesque sculptures, representing human figures, animals and fo- liage ; the capitals of many of the columns are decorated in the same taste : the lesser door, which stands north of it, is likewise much ornamented. Between them is a row of intersecting circu- lar arches, whose columns, Mr. Pennant observes, consist of singu- lar greater and lesser joints, placed alternately, not unlike one species of the fossils called Entroichi. Over the lesser door is a range of pointed arches, supported by clustered columns, form- ing niches, which, from the remains of divers pedestals, seem to have had statues in them. Above these are six larger and higher pointed arches, which, with three of greater dimensions over the grand door, form the front of a gallery called the Rood Loft, from whence, on holidays, probably some miraculous cross or crucifix mio-htbe exhibited to the multitude. Four of the lower of these arches are surmounted by five smaller ones, and over them this face terminates with a battlement. The tower is annexed to the north-west angle of the building. Its turret, inclosing a stair-case, projects a little beyond the west- end face. Mr. Pennant thinks that this, and a corresponding tower on the south-east angle, were those mentioned to have fallen down in the year 1221, when they destroyed the prior's hall and part of the church. The Annals say, "the body of tlie church was repaired in 1273 by the parishioners, but one Henry Chadde was the principal contributor;" but do not men- tion the rebuilding of any tower. 'J'he inside of the church is supported by six round archc s, all plain except one. The roof is of oak, beautifully carved with knots, tlowers, &c. — the beams supported by angels, horizc^ntal and perpendicular. The upper story of windows are also semi- circular. Mr. Pennant observes, " that either the date of the rebuilding is wrong, or the Saxon or round arched mode must have continued longer than is generally allowed." — Might not the BEDFORDSHIRE. 7 the architect who sLi}DerinteiKled the repairs, cither be directed or chuse to restore the building to its pristine form, without attend- ing to the style then in fashion ? 'I'he church is said to have been originally in the form of a- cross, with a tower in the centre. Two of the vast pillars which suppoited it are shewn in this drawing at what now forms the east end. Divers stone coffins, one with a chalice and patten, have been found by different persons digging for stone in the scite of the ancient eastern part of the church ; particularly in 17-i5, about two feet under ground, and about three from the side wall, and the feet close to a cross wall, was found a stone coffin ; the lid com- posed of four stones ; the piece at the foot a separate one ; the head, sides and bottom, of one stone; under the head an emi- nence instead of a pillow, in a hollow or niche corresponding to the head. The skeleton was entire except the ribs, which had fallen in ; the head inclined to the left : between the upper bone of the left arm and the back bone, was a glass urn fallen down and the lid off, stained with deep brown, on the inner side of that part which lay over the stone : about the feet were pieces of lea- ther very rotten, which by the holes appeared to have been sewed together. An ancient spur was found here. It is said that after the dissolution flenry VIII. pitched on this church to found one of his cathedrals, and had nominated Dr. Day to be the first bishop thereof; but for some reason, now un- known, that design was laid aside, and all the conventual part of the church was demolished ; for the part now left standing is only the nave and two side ailes of the church, from the west end to the transept, the length measuring no more than an hundred feet. Here are many ancient tombs and brasses, many of them are described in No VIII. of the l5ibliotheca Topographica Britan- nica, wherein are some verv curious extracts from the Annals of Dun- 8 B E D F O n I) S II I R E. Dunstable, published by Ilearne, from wbich several particulars here mentioned are transcribed. This view, which shews the north-east aspect of the church, waj drawn A. D. 1787. THE GATE OF DUNSTABLE PRIORY. XuE two remaining arches of the priory gate before mentioned in Plate II. are here delineated ; by their style they do not seem much older than the time of Henry VII. These led to the lodg- ings and ofScesof the priory, which stood on the south side of the church. At this priory and the town of Dunstable, many important af- fairs were transacted. A. D. 124:7, the former was visited by King Henry III. and his family, when the monks pres(?nted the king with a gilt cup, the queen with another, and their son and daughter, Prince Edward and Princess Margaret, each with a gold clasp. In return their Majesties bestowed on the church eight pieces of silk, and the king gave an hundred shillings for the making of a thurible and a pix. A number of tournaments were held at this town in different reigns, and the business of the divorce of King Henry VIII. was here agitated. This view, which shews the north or outside of the gate, was drawn A.D. 1787. LUTON TOWER. This tower is reputed to be of great antiquity ; it was the summer residence of the Abbots of St. Albans. After the dissolu- tion of religious houses it was purchased by the family of Napier, and is now the property of the Earl of Bute, who has erected near i I I BEDFORDSHIRE. 9 near it a most maginficent mansion, and laid out the grounds with a taste and propriety that always mark his Lordship's improvements. This tower was very high and of great strength, and had within it a spiral slope which served for ascending to the top instead of stairs. It is said to have been entire when purchased by Sir John Napier, who near fifty years ago began to pull it down) and that there was then found a whispering place communicating from the bottom to the top. By the remains of this tower and its appendages, it seems to have been a very extensive building. VOL. Ylll. D BUCK. [ 10 ] BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. BURNHAM ABBEY. (Plate I.) BuiiNHAM is a village which gives name to the hundred in which it stands, and is situated about five miles to the north-east of Eton, and about two miles east of Maidenhead in Berkshire. Here A.D. Il65, Richard King of the Romans, began a nun- nery of the order of St. Augustine, which was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, and consisted of an abbess and seven or eight nuns. Their yearly revenues, in tax Line, amounted to 561. I6s. Ud. in 26 Hen. VHI. to 51/. 2s. 4c?. q. Dugdale 91/. 5s. lid. ob. Speed. At the dissolution Browne Willis says, here was an abbess, nine nuns, and thirty-seven servants. The fol- lowing is a list of abbesses, as given by that gentleman : Joan de Bcd\vare,died 1314; Idonea d'Audeley, elected 1314,. died 1324; Joan deSomerville, elected 1324; Joan deDorney, elected 1339; Agnes Frankeleyn, elected 136?. resigned 1393; Eliz. Ward, elected^l393 ; Alice Golafree, elected about 1406 ; Agnes Gower, occurs 1457, as does Agnes Sturdys, about 1459 ; Joan Radcliff, resigned 1506; Margaret Gibson succeeded 1507, and resigned 1536. This view was drawn anno 1786. BURN- BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 11 BURNHAM ABBEY. (Plate II.) This view shews the aspect of tlie monastery. To the account given in the former phite may be added the following parti- culars, which occur in the additions to Browne Willis's History of Abbics. Burnham. Margary de Louch was abbess temp. Edward TIL in which reign she was succeeded by .loan Turner. The first abbess of this place was Margery de Eston, elected anno J 265. She was succeeded anno 1273 by Maud de Dorkces- ter. The two last were Margaret Gibson and Alice Baldwin. The instrument of surrender is dated September 1539, and signed by the abbess and nine nuns ; the four last of which were survi- ving amio 1553, and enjoyed their pensions, which were appro- priated as follows, viz. Alice Baldwin, abbess Anne Benfield -_---. Alice Cells ------- Margaret Browne ------ Elizabeth Woodforth Elizabeth Loo ._---. Anne Norys ------ Margaret Mosse -_-.-. Bridget Woodward _ - _ _ . Luce Packett _..--. In the Augmentation-Oflfice is the original surrender, too long to bein:: crted here, and a letter from the visitors, in the same nature as that of Bitlesdon, recommending the religious to the king's favour, on accoiuit of their readiness to yield to the king's mea- sures ; and the following survey of this house, taken amongst the returns £. 5. d. 13 6 8 4 2 6 8 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 12 B U C K I N G H A sr-SH I R E. returns of the lesser houses. " The inonaSiery of the order of St. Austin, vaUie 51/. 12s. Ad. nuns 9. incontinent none, all de- sire to go into religious houses ; servants 37, whereof priests 2, hinds 21, women 14. J3tlls and lead worth -'iOl. iQs. 8c/. the house in good estate. The value of the moveable goods, 45/. 17s- 9(1. Stocks and de|)ts none. Woods l60 acres, whereof in woods under 20 years of age 80 acres, old woods 80 acres." The mansion-house of the convent seems to be entirely stand- ing ; it is built in shape of an L, and made use of to hold husban- dry implements and produce, viz. corn, hay, Sec. the tenant dwel- ling in a little house near it, where probably the chief hind anciently lived. 1 could learn no account of the church, viz. when it was pulled down. The arms of this convent were, as I find. Or on a chief Argent, Three Lozenges Gules. MEDENIIAM, OR MADENIIAM ABBEY. Medexham abbey is pleasantly situated on the banks of Thames, about four miles south-west of Great ISIarlow. This Manor being given before the second of King John, by Hugh de Bolbec, to the Cistertian Monks of Woobourne, in Bed- fordshire, they placed some of their society hereabout the year 1204, and it became a small abbey of that order, being rather a daughter (as the writers of that order express themselves) than a cell to Woburn. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and valued 26 Henry VHI. (when here were only two mojiks)at 20/. 6s. 2d. per ann. Dugdale, 23/. 17s. 2d. Speed. In 29 Henry VHI. it was made part of the endowment of the new abbey at Bustleham, or Bishau), in Berkshire; and after the suppression of that house, it was granted to Robert Mone and others, 38 Henry VIII. These are the particulars of this house given by Tanner, to which the fol- lowing are added by Browne Willis : The account of the Abbots, says he, is very imperfect, being a cell to Woobourne, and so sub- ordinate I? I I I I i ^ BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 15 ordinate to their government; all I meet arc, Roger, anno 1256, and Peter, anno 1295, in which year he was elected to this office September 11. The next that occurs, as yet to me, is Ilenrv ann. 14l6, after whom I find no other, save that Richard, whose surname I find not, presided ann. 1521, and was, as I conceive, on many account?, the last prior. Here was then only one monk, whose name was Guy Strenshill. Temp. Hen. VI H. the com- missioners returned, that "This monastery was of the order of St. Bernard, the clere value 20/. 6s. 9.d. Monks then two, and both desyren to go to houses of religion; servants none, bells, &c. worth 2.1. \s. 8d. the house wholly in mine; the value of the moveable goods, 1/. 35. Sd. woods none, debts none." Here remains still standing the walls of the north aisle of the abbey church, it is in length sixteen yards, and in breadth four. It seems by this to have been a neat stately building, well wrought with ashler work; the windows high and spacious. It probably consisted of a body, and two side aisles and chancel, and had a tower at the west end. The house that is now called the Abbey-house seems to have been patched up after the disso- lution. Since Browne Willis wrote, most of the remains he mentions have fallen, or been taken down, the adjacent grounds elegantly laid out and planted, and the abbey-house repaired, and made again conventual, by a society of gentlemen who lived together in a kind of monastic state ; their abbot was a noble peer. The rules observed by these monks have not been pub- lished ; but from some of them which have transpired, we may venture to suppose they were not quite so rigid as those of their brethren of La Trape. This was in some measure indicated by the motto over their door, which carved in large letters still stand thus : FAY CE QVE VOVDRAS. This view was drawn July 1786. VOL. VIII. E CORN, [ 1-^ ] CORNWALL. ARWENACKE HOUSE AT FALMOUTH. (Plate I.) Although both Leland and Carew mention this mansion, neither of them give any information- respecting its builder, or time of erection. The former describes it in the following words : *' And a quarter of a mile farther I came to Arwennak, Mr. Keli- grew's place, standing on the brimme or shore, within Falmouth haven. " 'I'his place hatlie beene of continuance the ancient howse of the Killcgrewes. " 'J'hcr was another howse of the Keligrewis descending out of this, and it was in the town of Penrine : now both these houses are joined in one." Mr. Carew says of it, " After the declining hill hath delivered you down from this castle (i. e. the castle of Pendennis) Arwe- nacke entertaineth you with a pleasing view : for the same stand- eth so farre within the haven's mouth, that it is protected from the sea stormes, and yet so neer thereunto as it yeeldeth a ready passage out; besides, the cliffe on which the house abbateth is steep enough to shoulder off the waves, and the ground about it plaine and large enough for use and recreation. "It is owned by Master John Killigrew, who married the daugh- ter of Monck, and heire to her mother, and was sonne to Sir John Killigrew, who matched with Woulverstone ; the stocke is ancient, and diverse of the branches (as 1 have elsewhere remem- bred) growne to great advauncement in calling and livelyhood by their greater desert, their armes are argent, an eagle with two heads, displayed within a bordure beiianty sable." The C O R N W A L L. 15 The present state of this building will be best understood by the annexed view ; some parts of it, or at least of an ancient building adjoining to it on the north, are still inhabited. Tradition says, When the parliamentary forces besieged the adjacent castle of Pendennis, l6i6, the general took up his quarters at this mansion. Adjoining to the north side of this building is a fine grove, and in it a handsome stone pyramid, said to have been erected in memory of some person of the family of the Killigrews: but it has no inscription. This view was drawn July, 1786. THE OUTER, OR ST. CATHERINE'S CASTLE, AT FOWEY. (Platr I.) liiis view presents the north side of the Outer, or St. Catherine's Castle or Blockhouse, built, as Leland says, at the joint charge of Mr. Thomas Trefry, and the townsmen of Fowey. It is still kept up at the expence of the corporation, there being no allowance or establisliment from government for that purpose. As Mr. Trefry was, according to Leland, living when he wrote his Itinerary, this blockhouse must have been erected towards the latter end of the reign of King Henry VIII. ; indeed its construction carries the appearance of the military architecture of that time. — ^This view was drawn September, 1786, THE OUTER, OR ST. CATHERINE'S CASTLE, AT FOWEY. (Plate II.) Ihe east view of this castle is here given, as it a])pears in the way from the town. Its picturesque and romantic situation and appearance will, it is hoped, apologize for a second plate of a building 16 CORNWALL. building of so little importance, either as to antiquity or archi- tecture. — — This view was drawn September, 1786. THE TOWN, IIA^'EN, AND CASTLES OF FOWEY, OR FAWEY. (Plate L) This haven, town, and their environs, afford a variety of picturesque views. Their history and situation are thus related and described by Leland in his Itinerary : " The town of Fowey ys a market town, walled defensably to the se cost, and hath gates also. Yn the town ys but one churche, but the howses of the towne be well buylded of stone and yl en- habited. Also at the entery of the haven on the W. side is a blockke howse, and a chapel of S. Catherine by the same. Also ther is on the same syd a towre with ordinans for the defens of the haven. " At the cast syde of the haven's mouth of Fowey stondeth a towr for the defens thereof, and a chapel of S. Savyor a lytle above the same. Ny by the said towr stondith a fishar village cawled Polruan. Vol; vii. p. 122. " Ther is at the west point of the haven of Fawey mouth, a blok house devised by Thomas Treury, and made partely by his cost, partely by the town of Fawey. A little higher on this point of the hille is a chapel of St. Catarine, and hard under the root of this hille, a litlc withyn the haven mouth, is a litle bay or creke bearing the name of Catarine. " About a quarter of a mile uppe on the west side of Fawey haven is a s([uare toure of stone for defence of the haven, made about King Edward the 4. tym, and a litle above this towr on the same side is Fawey town, lying along the shore, and builded on the side of a great slatty rokkid hill. " In the middle of the town upon the shore itself is a house builded quadrantly m the haven, which shadowilh the shippcs in CORNWALL. 17 in the haven above it, from 3 partes of the haven mouth, and defend ith them from stormes. " The name of the town of Fawey is in Cornish Conwhuth. It is set on the north side of the haven, and is set hangging on a niaine rokky hille, and is in length about a quarter of a mile. "The towne longitl to one Cardiidiam, a man of great fame, and he gave it to Tywartraith Priorie, of the which sum say that Cardinham was founder, sum say Campernulph of Bere. " But at this gift, Fawey was but a small fischar toun. " The paroch church of Fawey is of S. Fimbarrus, and was impropriate to the priorie of Tywartraith. " The glorie of Fawey rose by the warres in King Edward the first and thirde, and Henry the V. day, partely by feates of warre, partely by pyracie, and so waxing riche folic al to mer- chaundice, so that the town was haunted with shippes of divers nations, and their shippes went to al nations. " The ships of Fawey sayling by Rhie and Winchelsey about Edward the 3 tyme, would vale no bonet, beyng required, where- upon Rhy and Winchelsey men and they faught, wher Fawey men had victorie, and thereupon bare their armes mixed with the amies of Rhy and Winchelsey, and then rose the name of gal- lants of Fawey. " The French men diverse tymes assailid this toun, and last most notat)ly about Henry the VL tyme, when the wife of Tho- mas Treury the 2d, with her men, repelled the French out of her house in her houscbande's absence, whereupon Thomas Treu- ry builded a right fair, and strong emf)ateld towr in his house ; and embateling al the waullcs of the house, in a manner made it a castellc, and unto this day it is the glorie of the town building in Fawey. " In Edward the IV. day, two stronge towers were made a litle beneth the town, one on eche side of the haven, and a chayne to bo drawcn over. " When warre in Edward the IV. days seascd betwene the VOL. viir, V French 18 CORN W A L L. Frencli men and Englisch, the men of'Fa;vey used to pray, kept their shippes, and assahd the French men in the seaaii;aync King Kdwardes conimandement, wliereupon the captaines of the shippes ofFowey were taken and sent to London, and Darte- mouth men commanded to fetche their shippes away, at whiche. tyme Dartmouth men tokc their in Fawey, and toke away, as it is sayde, the great chaine that was made to be drawen over the haven from tour to town Thomas Treury, now livinge, and the towne, made a blocke-house on St. Catherine's hille botom/' Vol. iii. p. 15. Carew says, that " The townsmen vaunt, tliat for the resku- ing certaine ships of Rye from the Normans in Henrie the third's time, they })ear the armes, and enjoy part of the priviledges ap- pertaining to the Cin([ue Ports, whereof there is some memorie in their chauncell window, with the name of Fisart Bagga, their principall commaunder in that service. Moreover, the prowesse of one Nicholas, sonne of a widdow neere Foy, is deskanied upon, in an old three mans songs, namely, how he fought brave- ly at sea, with John Dorey (a Genowey, as I conjecture) set forth by John the French king, and after much bloudshed on both sides, tooke and slew him, in revenge of the gieat ravine and crueltie which he had fore-committed upon the English men's goods and bodies." This view, which was drawn September 1786, from the hill on the north side of the outer, or St. Catherine's castle, shews the two towers built by King Edward the Fourth, two small batteries lately erected for the defence of the haven, having sheds to cover the guns; and lastly, parts of the church and town. THE CORNWALL. 19 THE TOWN, HAVEN, AND CASTLES OF F0WE7. (Plate IL) XlAViNG in the description, plate L transcribed the account of this place given by Leland, 1 shall here add such additional par- ticulars as occurred to nie in visiting the spot : First, then, witli respect to the two towers built by King Edward the IVth, they are both extant, though in ruins, all the floors being fallen in. Two links of the boom or chain, which ran across the harbour, were taken up by a trawl boat, about the year 1776; they were strongly incrusted with stones, shells* and other bodies, and are now preserved in the grotto of Philip llashley, Esq. at Alcnabilly, near this town. Trcftry House, called the Place, the castellated mansion mentioned by Leland, is still standing, though much out of repair. The tower on the north-east angle has fallen down, and many other parts seem likely to follow. It was a handsome building, the outside highly decorated with ornaments cut in the stone. It has a very fine old hall, with a Hat oaken ceiling, richly carved, and under a coat of arms in stucco is the date 1575. In another room are divers coats of arms in old painted glass: among them one with the plume of feathers, having on each side of it the letters E. P. probably signifying Edward Prince of Wales. Lnder it is the motto, thus mis-spelt, llic Dien. Several parts of this house have been repaired in the modern style. The chief entrance to it is from the churchyard, up three flights of steps, and through a ruined gate, with a strong wicket. Hanked by a lodge pierced with loop-holes : the gardens run along upon an eminence, overlooking the town and harbour The church, which stands a small distance south from it, is a handsome edifice ; the tower adorned all over with carving. In it are several monuments, chiefly for the Treffrys and Rashleys 20 C O R N W A L L. Rashleys, some of tlieni having the figures of knights in armour engraved on stone, in the same manner as practised on brass. There are also a iew brass plates ; but neither those nor the stone monuments are older than the latter end of the sixteenth century, and some even of the seventeenth. Thereare also several sculptured monuments in marble and other stone ; some of them mural, and but indifferently executed. One, a table monument, for Mr. John Rashleighe, is in a better style ; his figure lyes on the top, as big as life, habited in a kind of bonnet, ruff and s;own. The sides are adorned with escutcheons of arms, figures, and an inscription in verse; but so blocked up by pews, as to prevent its being read. On one of tiie escutcheons is a ship with four masts. A whimsical epita|)h is sliewn here for one of the Trcffry family, said to have been written by himself, and put up whilst he was living. It is inscribed on a marble tablet : Our nature, by order of Providence Divine, Will have its period to which it doth incline; From birth to faiall death summons us to the grave, "Where equally doih lye the simple, fooll, and brave. Ecclesiastes, chap. ii. vcr. IC. Here, in this cbancell do I ly. Known by the name of John Treffry, Being made and born for to d^'e. So must thou, friend, as well as I ; Therefore good works be sure to try, But thicfly love and ciiarity ; And still on them with faiih rely. So be happy eternally. Soli Deo Gloria. The roof of the church, which is coved scmicircularly, is adorned with diverse carvings in wood, of angels hultling armorial shields, and other devices, as are also the beams, and some of the pews. There is likewise kept here, a very ancient carved chair. Although the town of Fowey has many very good houses, and is the residence of many respectable gentlemen, no wheeled CORNWALL. 21 wheeled carriage can come into it, owing to the narrowness and sudden turnings of the streets. This view, which was drawn A. D. 1786, is taken from the haven side, a Httle to the south west of the town, at the place where the ferry-boats land passengers from Polruan. It exhibits one of King Edward the IVth's towers, and a distant view of the harbour's mouth, and St. Catherine's castle. ST. GERMAIN'S PRIORY. (Plate I ) J Ills Priory is supposed to have been founded by King Ethel- stan, and dedicated to St. Germaine, Bishop of Auxere in France, a famous preacluT, and a strenuous opposer of the Pelagian heresy ; for which purpose he came over into Britain with Lupus Bishop of Troy, A. D. 429. Here were at first secular canons, and King Ethelstan is said to have appointed one Conan to the bishoprick of this see, A. D. 936 ; but Tanner and Borlase both think it more probable that the episcopal see for Cornwall was not fixed here till after the burning of the bishop's house and cathedral cliurch at Bodmin, anno 981, after which King Canute more amply endowed this church; and about the year lOoO, Leofric, who was bishop here, and of Crediton, having united both bishopricks in the church of St. Peter at Exeter, changed the seculars here into regular canons, and appointed the Bishop of Exeter, for the time being, perpetual patron. The yearly revenues of this priory were va- lued, '26 Henry VIII. at 243/. 8s. Od. Dugdale. Speed makes it 227/. 4s. Sd. Clare MS. valor. The scite was granted, 33 Hen. VIII. to Kath. Champernoun, John Ridgway, &c. Carew, in his history of Cornwall, among other particulars respecting this priory, relates a pleasant story of the manner in which it was acquired by Ciiampernoun. The whole passage i> here transcribed in his own words: VOL. VIII. G " The it C R N W A L L. " The church towiie tnustereth many inhabitants, and sundry ruincs, but little wealth, occasioned either through abandoning theirfishing trade, as«ome conceive, or by their being abandoned of the religious people, as the greatest sort imagine : for in some times the Bishop of Cornwall's see was fronj St. Pctroch's in Bodwyn removed hither ; as from hence, when the Cornish dioces united with Devon, it passed to Crcditon, and lastly from hence to Excester. But this first lossc receyved relicfe through a suc- ceeding priory, which, at the general suppression, changing his note with his coate, is now named Port Eliot, and by the owners charity distributeth pro virili, the almes accustomably expected and expended at such places. Neither will it (1 thinke) much displease you to heare, how the gentleman's ancestors, of whom Master Eliot bought it, came by the same. John Champer- noune, son and heir apparent to Sir Philip Devon, in Henry the VIIl's time, followed the Court, and througli his pleasant con- ceits, of which much might be spoken, won some good grace with the Kino;. Now when the "olden showre of the dissolved abbey lands rayned wel nere into every gaper's mouth, some two or three gentlemen of the King's servants, and Master Champer- nowne's acquaintance, waited at a doore where the King was to passe forth, with purpose to beg such a matter at his hiinds : Our gentleman became inquisite to know their suit, they made stronge to import it. This while out comes the King ; they kncele down, so doth Master Champernowne . They preferre their petition; the King grants it; they render humble thanks, and so doth Master Champernowne : Afterwards he requireth his share ; they deny it ; he appeals to the King ; the King avoweth his equal meaning in the largesse, whereon the overtaken companions were fayne to allot him this priory for his partage. " The parish church answereth in bignesse the large proportion of the parish, and the surplusage of the priory; a great part of whose chancell, anno 1562, fel suddenly downe upon a Friday, very shortly after publicke service was ended, which heavenly favour CORNWALL. 23 favour of so little respite, saved many persons lives, with whom immediately before it had bene stuffed ; and devout charges of the vvell-disposcd parishioners quickly repayred this ruinc." Robert Swimmer, Prior; Nich. Gyft, sub-prior; Richard Tyn, with four others, subscribed to the King's supremacy, Aug. 13, 1534, 26 Hen. VIIL The same prior, viz. Robert Swymmer, surrendered his convent, with seven monks, March 2, 30 Hen. VIH. Tlieir names were Stephen Sackogmore, Richard Trowt, Robert Vyan, Will Lowee, Robert Kappit, John Ryche, Martin Powtravyr. Pensions, An. 1550. £. s. d. To Robert Swimmer, prior ^Q 13 4 Over his name is wrote, lie hath changed his pension for a benefice. (I presume liis benefice was the rectory of Southill, in this county, to which the borough town of Kelling- ton is a chapel ry ; and my reason for this is, because he was a good benefactor to the said chapel.) Stephen Segenore 5 Robert Vyen, 5 Robert Capel 2 Borlase says, this monastick church is as ancient a building as any at this time extant in Cornwall, and was formerly inclosed by the priory. This likewise appears from the following passage in Lelaud's Itinerary, Vol. vii. p. 123. " Also upon another crekc, west of the said river (Tamor) and nerer up, is a towne cawled S. Germaynes, wherin is now a priori of black canons, and paroche churche yn the body of the same. Beside the iiye altare of the same priori, in the ryght hand, ys a tumbe yn the walle, with an image of a bishop, and over the tumbe a XI bishops, payntcd with their names and verses, as token of so many bishops bcried theerc, or that there had beenesomany bishoppes of Cornwallc, tliat had theyr se(,>te theer : and at this day the bishop of E.xctcr hath 6 6 8 24 C O R N W A L L. hath a |)lace cawlcd Cuddcn Bcke, joining hard upon the sowth- east side of the same towne." This view was drawn 1786. ST. GERMAIN'S PRIORY. (Plate II.) 1 HE former plate contained such information respecting this Priory as could be collected from printed books: for the following particulars I am indebted to the Reverend Chancellor Carrington and Mr. Penwarne, minister of the parish. The church of St. Germain consists of a nave and two aisles ; the southernmost aisle is compass roofed, as well as the nave, and is nearly of an equal height, breadth and length with it ; the nor- thern aisle is low and narrow, with a slanting roof, which does not reach to the height of the wall by several feet. It is ten feet wide within, and formerly extended the length of the building. The church measures 104 feet 6 inches in length, by 6'7 feet 6 inches in breadth, within the walls. There is one stall remaining, which has commonly been called the bishop's chair, but seemingly without reason, as it rather appears to have been the seat ot one of the monks. Several of the same kind are still preserved in Bodmin church. It is accompanied by a piece of carved timber, on which is the coat of arms of the priory, a sword and key crossed. Concerning these arms there is the following article in Tanner's Notitia Monastica, among the notes on the armorial bearings of the ditferent monasteries: — " St. Germains: The priory is the mansion of Mr. Eliot: in the great hall are the arms of the priory on painted glass of a large bow window, viz. a sword and two keys endorsed in Saltire. Mag. Britan. Antiq. et nov. p. 347, a. It seems to be the same with Plimpton, the second coat of Bath Abbey, or the arms of the bishoprick of Winchester, and might perhaps formerly be the arms of the bishop of this diocese." It does not appear that this waseverany partof thechair or Cv ^ \ ^ C O R N W A L r. 25 or seat, on vvhicli is carved the figure of a liuiitci with game on his shyuldcr, and accompanied liy (h)gs. It is now removed to a niche in the chancel, am] placed on part of a tesseiated pavement found about fifty feet from the present east window : this pave- ment was about ten feet square. Nearly ten feet east of it was the foundation of a wall, which from its thickness and materials seen)s to have been the original extent of the buildinir. In the wall of the south aisle there are three niches, two at the eastern end, high and narrow, which have been ornamented at the top ; and about the middle of the same aisle there is one of a very different figure, which is supposed to have belonged to a more ancient monument; it is ornamented all round, and also in front, to the height of two feet and a half from the floor of the church, where the recess of the wall is covered with a stone seven feet six inches long, and one foot nine inches broad. 'I'liis stone has many marks on the face of it, as if some metal had been Ic* into it; none is at present remaining, nor do the marks describe any intelligible figure. Respecting this monument there is no tra- dition whatsoever. In the chancel are several monuments of the Moyle and Scawen families,, of different dates. The priory of St. Gern)ain's, and otlier lands in the vicinity were obtained by an exchange made in the year 1565, between John Eliot, esq. and Mr. Champernoune ; the former giving for the priory. &c. an estate called Colelands in Devonshire. This plate exhibits the west front of this venerable pile. It was drawn about the year 1779, before the clock given by Lord Eliot was set up. This clock is seen in Plate I. About the same time that this clock was given, Lord Eliot, then Mr. Eliot, prp-. cured a faculty from the bishop, for levelling the churchyard, and making a new cemetery at a little distance towards the west which has been used for that purpose ever since, and the old churchyard now forms a kind of lawn between the church and the mansion-house. VOL. VIII. H ST. Germain's 36 CORNWALL. ST. GERMAIN'S PRIORY, NOW PORT ELIOT. This plate presents a view of the seat of Lord Eliot, formerly the lodgings and offices of the priory of St. Germain, which having been purchased by one of his ancestors in the reign of Queen Eli:£abeth, has continued ever since in the possession of the family, and has by them been improved to its present state. This family have been considerable benefactors to the town of St. Germain, having endowed a public school there, repaired the sessions-house, and beautified the old conventual, now parochial church, where one of them lies buried under a fine monument of Italian marble erected to his memory by his widow. This view was drawn A.D. 1787. LAUNCESTON CASTLE. (Plate I.) Launceston, according to Leland, was called Lostephan, and alo Dunevet; the last, perhaps, from some allusion to the family of the Nevets or Knivets, who might either give their name to it, or be styled De or Du-Nevet after it. Borlase, in his Antiquities of Cornwall, supposes this castle to be older than the year QOO, and says, It is not improbable that this spot might have been fortified by the Romans. There was undoubtedly a castle here before the conquest, of which Othama- rus de Knivet was hereditary constable, and was displaced by the Conqueror, who gave both it and the town to Roger Earl of Moreton, with the Earldom of Cornwall, and many other manors and estates. William, his son and heir, kept his court here, and probably made so many alterations and additions, that he has by some been considered as the founder. From him it fell to the ■1 "«r!ll(ll-'i„'i.'l|!; •Ilf:'' f' il C O R N AV A L L. 27 the crown, with his other hinds, and was at length made, and still continues a parcel of the estates of the ducliy of Cornwall. Lcland, treating of tliis castle^ says, the hill on which the keep stands is large, and of a terrible height, and the arx ( i. c. keep) of it, having three several wards, is the strongest, but not the biggest that I ever saw in any ancient work in England, Borlase, who seems to have examined this building with great attention, thus describes it: " The principal entrance is on the north-east, the gateway 120 feet long, whence turning to the right, you mount a terrace running parallel to the rampart, till you come to theangle, on which there is around tower, now called the Witches Tower, from which the terrace runs away to the left, at right angles, and continues on a level parallel to the rampart, which is nearly of the thickness of twelve feet, till you come to a semicir- cular tower, and, as I suppose, a guard-room and gate : from this the ground rises very quick ; and, through a passage of seven feet wide, you ascend the covered way betwixt two walls, which are pierced with narrow windows for observation, and yet cover the communication between the base court and the keep or dun- geon. The whole keep is 93 feet diameter. It consisted of three wards ; the wall of the first ward was not quite three feet thick, and therefore I think could only be a parapet for soldiers to fight from, and defend the brow of the hill. Six feet within it stands the second wall, which is twelve feet thick, and has a staircase three feet wide at the left hand of the entrance, running up to the top of the rampart ; the entrance of this staircase has a round arch of stone over it : Passing on to the left, you find the entrance into the innermost ward ; and on the left of that entrance a winding staircase conducts you to the top of the innermost rampart, the wall of which is 10 feet thick and 32 feet high from the floor ; the inner room is 1 8 feet six diameter ; it was divided by a planching into two rooms. The upper room had to the east and west two large openings, which were both windows, and (as I am inclined to think) doors also in time of action, to pass from this dungeon 28 CORN W A L L, dungeon out upon the principal ran:ipart, from which the chief defence was to be made ; for it must be observed, that the second ward was covered with a flat roof at the height of that rampart, which made tne area very roomy and convenient for numbers. These openings, therefore, upon occasion, served as passages for the sokliers to go from one rampart to the other. In the upper room of the innermost building, there was a chimney to the north, underneath there was a dungeon which had no light. The lofty taper hill on which this strong keep is built, is partly natural and partly artificial ; it spread farther in the town anciently than it does now, and by the radius of it was 330 feet diameter, and very high*." Norden gives us a wall at the bottom of this hill ; and though there is no stress to be laid on his drawing, yet it is not unlikely that it had a wall or parapet round the bottom of it towards the town ; for the principal rampart of the base-court breaks pff abruptly fronting the town, and seems patched and maimed, and; to have lost some works at this place. The base-court (half of which, or more, as I judge, is now covered with the houses of the town) had formerly in it the assize-hall, a very spacious building, a chapel, and other buildings, now all gone, but the county gaol. At the western end there is another gateway into the town, but more modern than the rest. This view, which represents the north aspect, was drawn anno 1786. • I took the height of it by a quadrant, and made it, from the base-court to the parapet of the dungeon, lOt feet perpendicular ; but as it rained violently, I caonot depend on tb€ obiervation, though I believe it is pretty near tht truth. LA UN- <: I I I '"^''ffW C O R N W A I. L. 29 LAUNCESTON CASTLE. (Plate II.) In IS view shews the keep of this antique castle, as it appears from one of the upper rooms in the Wliite-Hart Inn, whence it was drawn in the year 178(>. These circuhir keeps seem ahuost peculiar to this county ; one however, though not raised aloft on a mount, is to be found in AA'ales ; that is in Flint Castle; where the keep consists of a Targe round tower, having an open circular area or well in its centre. ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT. (Plate I.) X HIS romantic mount is situated in the bottom of Mount's-Bay, about half a mile south of the town of Marazion, from which place there is a dry passage to it over the sands, from half ebb to half flood ; at other times the only communication is by means of a boat. This mount is by Ptolomy called Oerinum, by the Cornish men Karah-Luz en-leuz, that is, the grey, or hoary rock in the wood, from a number of trees formerly growing between it and Pen- zance, many of which are said by Leland to have been found thereabouts, and others have been discovered within a ftw years, i. e. A. D. 1757. It was called, in the book of Landaff, Densul, a compound word, signifying a hill dedicated to the sun; and in the sixth century, Michael Stow, in Latin St. Michael de Monte, and as Scawen says, St. Michael de Magno Monte. It is doubtful when this mount was first appropriated to reli- gious uses ; it is however certain it was deemed a holy place as early as the oth century ; for St. Keyna, daughter of Braganus, King of Brecknockshire, in Wales, is said to have come hither on VOL. viii, I a pilgrimage, 30 C O R N AV A I. L. a pilgrimage, about the year 490 ; and some years afterwards to have been joined by Cadoc her nephew, who, as may be seen in Capgrave, miraculously produced a fountain in a dry place, on which a church was erected to his honour. King Edward the Confessor found here a few monks, and gave them by charter the j)roperty of the mount and other lands, on condition that they should observe the rule of St. Benedict. After the accession of AVilliam the Conqueror, the duchy of Cornwall being l)y him be- stowed on Robert Earl of Moreton, he, out of regard to Norman- dy, his mother country, made this monastery a cell to the abbey of St. ]Michael de Periculo Maris (situated on a mount on the coast of Normandy, extremely similar to this) a Cistertian monastery of the reformed kind, called Gilbertines, from itsfounder Gilbert of Semperingham, in Lincolnshire, by which rule monks and nuns were placed in the same house; and accordingly here were both a priory and nunnery. Here was also, as Leland says, " a lytel chapel yn the sand near by the town toward the mount;" at which probably the pilgrims stopped to offer up their orisons as a preparation to purify them for the holy mount. A stack of rocks near half way between the town and mount still bear the name of the Chapel Rock. This monastery was seized by king Edward III. among the other alien priories, and was afterwards restored and made deni-' zon, on condition] of paying to the king the sum annually remit- ted to its superior foreign convent; but by an after ordinance all religious houses, not conventual, were directed to be taken into the king's hands, when, notwithstanding the prior of this house appeared to the summons, and gave sufficient proof that it was actually conventual, the Bishop of St. David's, then treasurer to the king, set it to farm at 20/. per annum, which the king remit- ted, retaining only ten pounds a-year, to be paid half-yearly, so long as this nation should continue at war with France. The reason assigned in the deed, which is printed in Rymer, was, that under that rent the monks could not afford to repair their build- ings. C O R N \r A L L. $1 ings, which were greatly dccajcd ; a matter that might be ex- tjcmely detrimental to the king's service, that mount being the fortress of the adjacent country. About this time the priory was valued at 200 marks a-year; there were only six stalls in the choir, and consequently the priory could have no more monks, even when complete, which was not always the case ; for it was visited A. D. 1336, by Grandison bishop of Exeter, and the conduct of the prior censured for re- maining one month without a monk, letting the lands beneath their value, and suffering delapidations. When Kins: Henrv VJ. built King's College in Cambridcre, he gave it this priory, which was afterwards by Edward IV. granted to the nunnery of Sion in Middlesex. At the dissolution of religious houses it was valued at 110/. 125. per annum. King Henry VIII. gave the revenues and go- vernment of it, for it had been many ages before a garrisoned fort, as well as a religious house, to Humphry Arundell, esq. a branch of the family of Lanherne, who enjoyed it till the 1st. of Edward VI. After his death government granted a lease of it to John Milton, esq. under the description of the Farm-house of the Mount and Island, with the appurtenances, for the yearly rent of 40 marks. It afterwards came into the family of St. Aubyn, and is at present the property of Sir John St. Aubyn, Bart. This view, which was drawn from the town of Marazion, a lit- tle to the westward of the passage to the mount, shews the north side of the mount, chapel, and mansion of Sir John St. Aubyn; the fishermen's houses below, and the pier. On the left is seen the passage, which rises like a causeway, and is formed of large loose stones. This view was drawn anno 1786. ST. 52 C R N W A L L. ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT. (Plate II.) In the description annexed to the former Phitc, this mount was considered in its nmiiastic capacity ; the object of the present sliall be to investigate it as a fortress, and to relate the different mihtary o|)erations there transacted. The first instance of any material conse([uence haj>[)cncd in the reii;hn of King Richard I. >vhilst that monarch Avas detained prisoner by the Emperor of Germany; when Hovedtn says, Henry do h Pomcroy surprised this place, expelled the monks, and fortified it; but learning that his sovereign had recovered his hberty, and fearing a just punishment for this action, he became his own executioner. After his death it was surrendered to the Archbishop of Canterbury for the king. According to Carew, in his History of this county, the de- scendants of this Pomcroy relate this story very differently: " For they aflirme (says he) that a serjeant at amies of the kinges, came to their ancestor, at his castle at Berry Pomeroy in Devon, re- ceived kind entertaynment for certaine days together, and at his departure, was gratified with a liberal reward; in counterchange -whereof he then, and no sooner, revealing his long concealed errant, flatly arrested his hoastc, to make his immediate appear- ance Ijefore the king for answering a capital crime, which unex- pected and il-carrycd message the gentleman tooke in such despite as with his dagger he stabbed the messenger to the heart, and then well knowing in so superlative an offence all hope of pardon fore- closed, he abandons his home, gets to a sister of his, abiding in this mount, bequeathed a large portion of his land to the reli- geous people there for redeeming his sowie; and lastly, causeth himself to be let bloud unta death, for leaving the remainder to liis heir. From this time forward this place continued rather a schoole of Mars than the temple of Peace. A. D. •^ I I CORNWALL. 35 A. T>. 14-71. In the 13tli of Edward IV^. John dc Verc, earl of Oxford, an active partijjan for the house of Lancaster, after the defeat of the battle of Barnet, took shipping for this place, attended by a few faithful followers, and under the disguise of pilgrims to the holy mount, surprised the garrison, and sei^^ed the fortress, which he for a long time defended against the king's forces, slaying in one of the attacks John Arundel of Trerise, who was buried in the chapel, but at length surrendered it on reasonable conditions. This last circumstance is contradicted in one of the letters to the Paston f;imily, wherein it is said, only his life was granted ; the words are : It'm, men saye that the Erie of Oxenfford hathc been constraynyd to sewe tlbr hys pardon only off hys lyffe, and hys body, goodes, londes with all ye remenaunt at ye kinges wyll, and soo sholdc in all haste nowe come in to ye king ; and some men saye yt is goon out of ye mount, men wot not what plase, and yeit lefte a great garuyson theer weel furnyshyd in vytayll and all other thynge," During the late Cornish commotion, says Carew, diverse gent, with their wives and families fled to the protection of this place, where the rebels besieged them, first wynning the |)laine at the hils foote by assault, when the water was out, and then the even ground on the top, by carrying up great trusses of hay before them, to blench the defendant's sight and dead their shot, after which they could make but slender resistance ; for no sooner should any one within, pcepe out his head over those unflanked wals, but he became an open marke to a whole showre of arrowes. This disadvantage, together with women's dismay and decrease of victuals, forced a surrender to these rakehels mercy, who, nothing guilty of that effeminate vertue, spoiled their goods, i[nprisoned their bodies, and were rather by God's gracious providence, than any want of will, purpose, or attempt, res- trayned from murdering the principal persons. In the 13th of Henry VI I. heere also was Lady Catherine VOL. VIII. K Gordon 34. CORNWALL. Gordon (an unfit yoke-fellow for that counterfeit prince, Perkin Warbeck) taken by the Lord Daubeney, and conveyed to the king. The Mount had its share in the troubles under Charles L as we learn from Sprigge's treatise, entitled England's Recovery, where it is related, that about the middle of April 16'46, it was taken by Colonel Hammond, after considerable defence ; the governor was Sir Arthur Basset. The Marquis of Ilamiltoji was prisoner in it. Here were found fifteen pieces of ordnance, and great store of ammunition and provisions. This is, say he, a place of great strength, the tyde flowing about it twice a day, which rendered the reduction of it a service of great difficulty and consequence, and redounding much to the honour of Col. Hammond, who underwent the same. This view shews the north side of the buildings, as seen from the bottom of the Mount, south of the fishermen's houses. ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT, (plate hi.) 1 HE eastern part of this romantic building is here given, seem- ingly overhanging the almost perpendicular rock whereon it stands, from the summit of which there is a most extensive and beautiful prospect over the bay. The height from low-water- mark to the top of the buildings, is said to measure two hun- dred and thirty-eight feet. The distance from Marazion half a mile. The present proprietor bids fair greatly to augment the beauty of the scene by judicious plantations of firs over the face of the Mount, most of which seem to thrive. At the bottom of the rock, on the north side, is a handsome pier and bason, capable of receiving upwards of fifty sail of fishing vessels. It was erected in the year 1425, when it is recorded in the register of the bishops of Exeter, that Edmund, then bishop, granted forty days indulgence to all those who should CORNWALL. 35 should contribute or otherwise assist the inhabitants of Mara- zion in building a stone pier then bcgnn. Possibly some wooden or other mole might have before existed. This pier has been since rebuilt by Sir John St. Aubyn, the third baronet of that name, in the years 1720" and 1727. 'I'he entrance is in the middle of the north front, by an opening of forty feet. The west front of the wall is 481 feet; towards the north and east, it measures 445 feet. Occasionally ships of con- siderable burthen may be here. Tlie manuscript before mentioned, which was written by Mr. Borlase, about the year 1730, gives a description of the state of the buildings of this monastery before repaired, to the following purport : The church and tower are placed on the summit of the rock; the nunnery and house for the monks stand lower in point of height, and spread to the east, south, and west, for the most part at equal distances, but to the south-west end, contiguous to the church, the whole making together a kind of oblong square, consisting of projecting and receding rectangles. These build- ings have of late received many modern repairs. The followino- description is as they stood about forty years ago, before the alteration ; As you ascend the outer gate, fronting the west, you have a wall, or rather same part of one, on each hand of the steps ; that on the right hand has a stone door-case and part of a larii^e window standing, which shews tlic building formerly extended farther towards the west. At the top of the fnst steps you enter the first gate, which is very low, and the portcullis with which it appears to have been guarded, needed not to have been more than four feet high ; five steps within the gate, lead you into the passage or entry, about twelve feet wide, (on the left of which is the guard-room or dungeon,) till you come to a large wooden gate, whence leaving the church-door on the right, and a narrow tMuballlcd terrass on the left, in about seventy feet eastward you 36 CORNWALL. you conic to a grey coarse marble door-case, carved in a better gotliic style than the opening of the church, and therefore more modern; over it is a window of the same stone and work, nianship, exactly well placed ; the door lets you into an apart- ment distinct from the other parts of the monasteiy, about fifty feet long and eighteen wide, consisting of one chamber or more (for the partitions were all down) to the west, over a passage somewhat more than half the length, i. e. twenty-five feet; and lets you into a chapel dedicated to St. Mary, with a little area to the east of it: this was the nunnery ; and in the aforesaid passage on the left hand there is a narrow stair-case, by which the nuns retired to their chambers over the passage. Planch- ing of the chambers was fallen into the passage below, through which, over carved beams and rubbish, we got to the end of the building with difficulty, and in the eastern end of the cha- pel found a fair marble window which gave light to the altar ; one stone of the same grey marble projected from the south wall ; it had two escutcheons embossed ; the first had three castles, two and one garrettcd, the arms at present of the town of Marazion, and formerly perhaps the arms of this priory. The second escutcheon had a chevron between the fleurs de lis ; this stone served no doubt to support part of the image of the Holy Virgin. Tiie chapel was peculiar to the nunnery, and from the chamber the whole of the chapel might be seen, and the ordinary duties of devotion performed, without descending or opening the gratines of the chambers. In the eas.tern hall be- hind the altar, .there was a small door of three feet and a half high, which is the only entrance into a little open court or belvi- dere, of no more than six paces long, and three wide, with a little terrace or banquet to look over the ganetted wall to the east. By the carved fragment of stone, with some other marks of distinction and neatness, this apartment shews itself to have been erected with much cost. — This view was drawn A.D. 1786. ST. iS CORNWALL. 37 ST. MICHAELS MOUNT. (Plate IV.) The west front of this venerable pile is here delineated. The entrance, up a flight of steps, lies behind the great tower; over it appear the tower and flag-staff of the church ; part of its west end is also seen over the middle of the buildinc;: between the two towers. The whole of this edifice is in a complete state of repair, and affords a most delightful summer residence to the present owner, who commonly retires hither from his seat at Clowance for a few weeks. Indeed the peculiar romantic situation of the building, the beauty of the surrounding scene, and the operations of the pilchard fishery, present a variety of rich prospects scarcely to be conceived by those who have not had the pleasure of seeing them. The polite reception and hospitable entertainment given by Sir John to strangers visiting the place, is not often equalled, and cannot be exceeded. This island is in some degree a fortress, as on different parts of it there are several batteries furnished witli cannon, some of them capable of resisting a privateer. The fishermen residing near the pier, wouJd on any emergency furnish j)lenty of gun- ners and men able to perform the other duties of a garrison. Probably the buildings here underwent some considerable repairs between tlie years l641 and I66O ; as a large room, for- merly the refectory of the monks, is fitted up with a very ex- traordinary friije, whereon in stucco are represented different huntings of the wild boar, bear, bull, stag, ostridge, fox, hare, and rabbit. At the upper end of this room are the royal arms and supporters, over the date 1641; beneath this is the motto Dieu et mott Droit, and under it the date ItibO ; at the other end of the room^ are the arms of St. Aubyn. Divers ancient spear-heads, and a match-lock to a musket, have been found here in digging. Human bones are also fre- yjoL. VIII. I. quently 35 COR N W A 1. L. quently digged up all ovrr the Mount; at present a spot of ground is set apart for a cemetery, this place having been ad- judged extra-parochiid. The taking of this |)lace by the parliamentary forces, about the I8ih of April 16"46, has been already mentioned. The same Clnonicle, in a part styled the Burtujig Bush not comumed, page 412, has these additional particulars : " That the governor, Sir Arthur Basset, and the rest of the garrison, had liberty to retire to the isles of Scilly, and that here were found an hun- dred barrels of powder, oOO muskets, 100 pikes, 30 pieces of ordnance, three murthering pieces, and eighty tuns of wine, with store of other provisions." It is here styled," Tliat impreg- nable and almost inaccessible fort." This view was drawn A. D. 1786- THE CHAPEL OF ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT. T^ms view chews the south side of the chapel, with part of the long gallery that runs through the house. Tlie small projection seen over the battlements of the tower, is the remains of a lantern, vulgarly called St. MichaeCs Chair, mentioned in the general description of this place, as supposed to have the virtue of conferring the reins of domestic government on that person, man or wife, who shall have courage to ascend to it, and seat themselves in it. This view was drawn in 1786". INSIDE OF THE CHAPEL OF ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT. 1 HIS view shews the inside of the chapel as it appears from Sir John St. Aubyn's pew at the east end of the building. It was drawn anno 1786. This edifice was repaired by the father of the present pro- prietor N5 ^. I 5> CORNWALL. 39 priclor about sixty years ago ; its state before that reparation is described in a manuscript preserved in the family, whence we karn that it was divided by the lattice-work of the rood-loft into an aisle and choir, and that the rood-loft was carved and painted with the history of Christ's passion, not inelegantly exe- cuted, considering the time when it was done. On each side of the entrance into the choir, were three stalls ; and at the altar two tall eastern windows, and over them as a finishing at the top, one in the shape of a rose. It had also three windows with pointed arches on each side wall, and ano- ther handsome rose window at the west end. The chief door or entrance is up a flight of steps on the north side. The aisle or anti-chapel is forty-eight feet long, the choir measures twenty-one ; both are of the same breadth. On the right of the altar there was a little door, which by twelve steps led down to a well-arched stone vault, nine feet square ; this, from a ver}' small aperture or listening place, in the south wall, appears to have been intended for the purpose of hearing con- fessions. The walls are thick and well built, and, which is supposed a mark of antiquity, have no buttresses. The bell tower stands in the centre of the building. In this tower are five tuneable bells, four of them seemingly of some anticpiity. On the first or smallest, is written in a very neat old English character, Ordo Potestatum. On the second, <^ I. Sancte Nicholae Ora pro Nobis <^ I, O, S, Ordo Principatuuni. On the third bell, Spiritus Sanctus est Deus — CJabricl, © Sancte Paule Ora pro Nobis. Ordo Virtutum. Maria. On the fourth bell, Filius est Deus. Ka|ihacl © Sancta Margarita Ora pro Nobis. Ordo Archangelorum. On the fifth bell, which is not so neat as the others, is, in indiffer- ent Roman characters, Soli Deo Detur Gloria. 1640; with the impression of four pieces of coin, commonly known by the title of broad pieces; on one of them, the letters CAR. are plainly to 40 CORNWALL. to be seen. This bell was, it is likely, in the room of one more :uicieiit, probably christened St. Michael ; and as the two other Persons of the Trinity are mentioned in the third and fourth bells, had the following inscription: Pater est Deus. Michael, St. — Ora pro Nobis. — Ordo Cherubim & Seraphim. On the top of the tower, in one of the angles, are the remains of a moor-stone lantern, kept in all likelihood by the monks, who had a tithe of the fishery, to give direction to the fishermen in dark and tempestuous weather. This is vulgarly called St. Michael's chair, and will only admit one person to sit down in it. The ascent to it is dangerous ; but it is, nevertheless, some- times ascended, out of a foolish conceit, that whosoever sits there- in, whether man or woman, will henceforth have the mastery in domestic affairs. At present there are no remains of the stalls, rood-loft, paint- ing or carving, they having been removed at the time of making the repairs before mentioned; since which time a pulpit and organ were put up; and when the present baronet is resident at the Mount, he pays a clergyman for performing divine service every Sunday, when few parishes can boast a more numerous or decent congregation. THE OLD FORT ON ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT. liiE Old Fort, seen in Plate II. of this place, and which enfi- lades the way ascending to the castle, is here drawn on a larger scale; it seems to have been intended for ordnance by the size of its embrazures or apertures. Its state and style bespeak it of no very modern construciiun ; the adjoining building to the left was also garnished with loop-holes, forming with it a cross fire, the path to tlie entrance of the buildings on the Mount passing between them. This view was drawn A. D. 1786. ST. ^ s 5> ^<, ft? lUUD:: CORNWALL. 41 ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT, AND MOUNTS BAY. Ix this view are shewn the eastern side of Mount's-Bay, witli the low land trending away to theLizzard Point. 'I'he small town of Mara/iion, or Market-Jew, and the Mount and Monastery of St. ^liehael, as they appear from an eminence near the village of Gulval ; the tower of its parish church is seen in the fore ground. William of Worcester, a writer of the loth century, frequently (juoted in this work, has the following instrument respecting St. Michael's IMount, which is introduced without any explanation or conmient : " To all Members of Holy Mother Church, who shall read oi hear these letters, Peace and Salvation. Be it known unto you all, that our most holy Lord Pope Gregory, in the year of Christ's Incarnation, one thousand and seventy, out of his great zeal and devotion to the church of Mount St. Michael in Tumba, in the county of Cornwall, hath piously granted to the aforesaid church, which is entrusted to the angelical ministry, and with full appro- bation consecrated and sanctified, to remit to all the faithful, who shall enrich, endow, or visit the said church, a third part of their pennancc ; and that this grant may remain forever unshaken and inviolable, by the authority of God the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy G host, he forbids all his successors from attempting to make any alteration against this decree." These words, which were lately found in the ancient registers of this church, are the same that are publicly placed on the gates of the said church; and whereas this is a matter unknown to many, we the servants of God in Christ, and ministers of this church, rccjuire and beseech all of you who have the cure of souls, on account of the natural vicissitudes and changes, that you may, as far as is in your power, publish them in your churches, that those in subjection to your VOL. VIII, M authority 42 CORNWALL. .authority may thereby be excited to greater devotion and atten- tion, and be induced to visit the said place more frequt-ntly and in greater numbers, in order to obtain the aforesaid graces of in- dulgencies," 1'he apparition in MountTumba, formerly called Le Ilore RoTc in the Wodd, and there were woods, meadows, and arable lands between tlicsaid mountain and the islands of Scilly, and 140 parish churches between that mountain and Scilly, were submerged. The first ap[)arition of St. Michael in Mount Gorgon, in the kingdom of Apulia, was in the year of Christ 391- The second apparition was about the year of our Lord 710, in Tumba in Cornwall, near the sea. The third apparition was at Rome ; it is written that it happen- ed in the time of Pope Gregory', for during the time of a great pestilence, &c. The fourth apparition was in the hierarchy of our angels. The area of Mount St. Michael is of two hundred cubits, sur- rounded on every side by the sea, and the religious monks of the said place, the Abricrnsion high priest, by name Aubertus, that to the honour of St. jMichacl he mio;ht build the aforesaid place, at first enclosed with the thickest woods, distant six miles from the sea, oUcring the fittest hiding place for wild beasts, in which place we once found monks serving God. Memorandum. — The length of the church of St. ^Michael's Mount, contains SO steps or paces; the breadth contains 12 steps. The length of the new-built chapel contains 40 feet, that is, 20 steps, the breadtii contains about 10 steps. From the church to the foot of the mountain at the sea-side, contains 14 times 60 steps. Length of tiie sea between Market-Jew to the foot of St. Michael's Mount, contains by estimation a thousand CC, that is 700 ste|)s, Anglice ten times LXX steps." — This view was drawn A. D. 1786. PENDENNI8 5« s ^ N C O R NMV A L L. 4* PENDENNIS CASTLE, NEAR FALMOUTH. 1 HIS fortress, which is very advantageously situated, was 6rst constructed by King Uenry the Vlllth, when he fortified the sea coasts, and afterwards strengthened and enlarged by Queen Eliza- bctii. Lcland, in the third volume of his Itinerary, describes it in the following w^ords : — " The very point of the liavcn mouth being an liille, whereof the king hath builded a caste!, is called Pendinant, and longgith to Mr. Kihgrewe. It is a miieincoiu- pace, by the compace, and is almost environed with the se; and where it is not, the groimd is so low, and the cut to be made so little, that it were insulated." In IG46 this castle was bravely defended against the parliamen- tary forces by John Arundel of Trerice, then near eighty years of age: he was assisted by his son Richard, a colonel in the royal arm}', afterwards created Lord Arundel of Trerice, and many other loyal gentlemen of the county of Cornwall ; this garrison refused to treat till they had not provision for twenty- four hours, and then negociated with such seeming inditfcrence, and insisted so firmly on the articles required by them, that the enemy, ignorant of their situation, granted them their own conditions, which were as good as had been given to any garrison in the kingdom. This, with Ragland castle, were among the last garrisons held for the king. Lord Arundel, of Trerice, was governor here in l672. This fortress has lately undergone great repairs, and is at pre- sent garrisoned by a company of invalids. The grand entrance is on the west side. £. 5. d. Its establishment is, a governor, at - - 300 per arm. A lieutenant-governor, at - - - - 91 o per ann. The present governor is Major-General Robert Robinson. The lieutenant-governor Mnjor Nevisou Pool.— This view was drawn Au2:ust 17S6. PEN- 44 CORNWALL. PENGERSWICK CASTLE. Pengerswick Castle is situated in a bottom near five miles south-east of Marazion, and about a mile south of the iiigh road leadini; from that |)lacc to llcistonc. The present remains of this eastle consist of the walls of the keep, a square tower of tiiree stories, with a smaller one annexed to the north-east side, containing a HighA of winding stone steps, leading to the top of the building, which is covered with lead ; the whole faced with squared stone. Many of the floors are fallen in, and all are much decayed. The girders which supported them are remarkably large. On the first floor some of the wainscot is remaining, on which are divers verses and moral sentences written in the ancient black letter, one comparing a miser to an ass loaded with riches, who, notwith- standing his precious burthen, satisfies himself with a thistle. This has, however, given rise to a foolish tradition, that the per- son who built this castle had made a great fortune at sea, and landed so much treasure, which he loaded on an ass, in order to convey it hither, that it broke the back of the poor animal. It is said the figure of an ass was painted over the sentence before- mentioned ; if it was, it is now expunged. Under the ground-floor is a large vaulted room pierced with loop holes for discharging arrows or muskets. Over the great door, which is on the north-side of the tower, is a machicolation for pouring boiling water, or melted lead, on the heads of assailants attempting to force it open. North of the tower are several ruinous walls of different apartments covered with ivy; and on the north-east, the remains of a window and door. Neither Leland, Carew, Hals, nor any other of the topographical writers who mention this place, give any information respecting the builder, or lime when this castle was 5>v CORN W A h L. 45 was erected ; uor could the occupier of it give any tradition re- specting it, except the foohsh story of the ass. At present the properly of these remains arc divided into seve- ral parts: Lord Caermarthcn is the chief jiroprietor. The castle, together with a sn)all farm, is rciited for ten pounds per annum. Several parts of this structure, such as door-cases and window- frames, have been taken down, and used to refit the neighbour- irg cotta"es. Near the castle is a .pretty rill of water, and from the leads of the tower there is a beautiful prospect, taking in the sea, which is distant about a mile. The greater parts of this building do not bear the marks of any very remote antiquity ; and probably are not, the tower in particular, much older than the reign of Henry Vlll. Mr. Carew mentions this place by the appellation of " a fayr house in an unfruitfid soyle;" whence it is evident it was entire when he wrote his Survey of Cornwall, which was published A. D. 1602. Mr. Hals, in his Parochial Antiquities of Cornwall, says, " This barton and manor was purchased in the latter end of the reign of King Henry VHI. by Mr. Milliton, who having slain a man, privately made that purchase in the name of his son, and immured himself in a secret chamber of the tower, seeing none but his trusty friends, so that he died without being called in question for that offence." This son. Job Milliton, was, 1st of Edward VI. made gover- norof St. Michael's INIount, in the room of Humphrey Arundel!, executed for rebellion. He married the daughter of the Godol- phin family, by whom he had William Milliton, sheriffof Corn- wall, 7th Eliz. 1565, who dying without issue, benig lost, as Carew says, in travaile beyond the seas, the estate devolved to his six daughters, who married into the following families : 1. To Erisey and S.r Nicholas Farkcr. 2. To Lanine. 3. To Trefusis and Tregodcck. 4. To Trewwith, Arundel, and Hearle. 5. To Bonithon. 6. To Abbot. I'roni some of these co-heiresses Sir VOL. VI II. N Nicholas 46 CORNWALL. Nicholas Hals purchased their parts of this manor, and obtained leases from the rest; and for some time made it and Trewinard the places of his residence. IJis son and licir, John Hals, cnt down the timber, which tradition says, was here in great quantity. The land was sold to Go(h)lfin, and some others. Pcngc is-wiek sif;nifies the head ward or command, fenced or fortified place; or pen-gweras-ike, the creek, cove, or bosom of waters-head help. — — Tliis view was drawn September 1786". RESTORMEL CASTLE. (Plate II.) i HIS view shews the" east side of the castle with the projecting building opposite the gate, supposed by Mr. Borlase to have been the chapel. The windows, and indeed the whole building, is so overgrown with ivy, as to have very little of the stone visible. This view was drawn anno 1786. TREMATON CASTLE. iHis is supposed to have been one of the castles of the ancient dukes of Cornwall before the Conquest. The builder, and time of its erection, are equally unknown. After the Conquest, it appears by Domesday-book that it belonged to William earl of Moreton and Cornwall, who resided here, and had a market. It was bestowed by the Conqueror on Robert, father of the said William, who dispossessed Candorus (or, as Camden calls him, Cadocus), the last of the ancient British earls of Cornwall, accord- ing to Borlase, sometimes styled dukes and sometimes kings of that county. Mr. Carew mentions, that in the church of St. Stephen, which belonged to the castle, the body of a big man was digged up, enclosed in a leaden coffin: this, by an inscription on a plate of the CORNWALL. 47 the same metal, was said to be the corpse of a duke, whose heir was married to a prince. 'J'his he conjectures to have been ()r- gerius, who lived A. D. 9 ;4, from the circumstance of his daugh- ter having been married to Edgar, but this Orgerius, according to William of Malmsbury, was buried in the monastery of 'J'a- visiock. Mr. Borlase supposes it to have been the body of Ca- docu-, whose only daughter and heir, Agnes, was married to Reginald Fitz-Henry, natural son of IJenry I. Under Robert earl of Moreton and Cornwall, according to the Exeter Domesday, Reginald de X'alle-'l'orta held the castle; but the inheritance came to William earl of Cornwall, from whom it passed by attainder to the Crown, with his other estates ; tlien, as some think, Cadorus, son of the Candorus before-mentioned, was restored to his paternal estates and dignities, and lived and died at this castle. From Reginald Fitz-Henry, with one of his daughters and co- heiresses, this lordship of Trematon came to Walter Dunstavil, baron of Castle-Comb in Cornwall ; with whose daughter, in default of issue-male, it went to Reginald de Valle-Torta, temp. Rich. 1. who, from evidence in the Red Book of the Exchequer, appears to have had 59 knights' fees belonging to the honour of Tri nuiton. HissonJohn had issue Roger, by some called Reginald, whose eldest daughter Eglina married Pomeroy of Bury Pomeroy, in Devonshire, on whose issue he settled this lordship. Her son, Sir Henry Pomeroy, Knt. or a son of his of the same name and title, by a deed bearing date the lithof Edward III. did, in con- sideration of an annuity of 40/. payable out of the exchequer, release to Edward the black prince, then created duke of Corn- wall, all his right to this honour, castle and manor; since which time it has continued a part of the estates of the duchy of Corn- wall. This castle stands in the parish of St. Stephen, near Saltash, and on the northern side of the river Tamar. It consists of a base court 48 COR N W A L L. court, having on one side of it a circular keep, mounted on an artificial hill, 'i'he base court contains about three quarters of an acre: in it were formerly several buildings, now all gone. The gateway is in a square tower ; Mr. Borlase thinks it of more mo- dern workmanship than the rest of the building. The walls of the base court are surrounded by a ditch, and are pierced with loop-holes of different constructions ; some being long chinks, some sq'iirire, and others in the form of a cross. The keep stands at one end of this court, mounted on the top of a conical hill, which by the dipping of the valley becomes of a considerable height on the outside, but next the base court is not above thirty feet high. The building is a noval, whose inte- rior conjugate diameter measures nearly sixty feet; its transverse fifty : it has no windows, but was probably aired and illuminated by openings made into a small internal area or court in its cen- tre, called by builders a well. This would indeed afford but very little light ; but in castles that conveniency was sacrificed to strength : from the want of light, Borlase supposes the keeps of castles were called dungeons. The wall of this keep is ten feet thick, and round the top runs a crenellated parapet of two feet thick; the other eight form the terre pleine of the rampart. The entrance is on the west side, through a semicircular arch. The top of the parapet is above thirty 3'ards from the area within ; which area, when Mr. Borlase saw it, Mas converted into a gar- den for pot-herbs; but the man who then shewed tiie castle re- membered a chimney and some ruins of walls standing, of which no traces are left. The holes for receiving the beams that support the roof, are in two rows, but both so near the top of the parapet as to shew there were but one flight of rooms ; the double holes being de- signed to give strengtfi to the roof, on which the soldiers were to work the mangonels and other projectile machines. — This view was drawn A. D. 1786". DERBY- € Vt--- -Tmr ^' [^ '' ^j ■ ' WL, Ml ;( ^ I _ ilii Wii S ■■■' '' ■ *■ ' r L ~?: .a <3 [ 49 ] DERBYSHIRE. BOLSOVEll CASTLE. 1 II IS castle stands on an eminence, and commands a mos beautiful prospect. It anciently belonged to Hastings', lords of Abergavenny, and by an exchange with King Henry HI. from them it came to the Cavendishes and HoUis', dukes of Newcastle, and, by a female, went to the Earl of Oxford. At present it be- longs to his Grace the Duke of Portland, whose father married the heiress of the Oxford Family. History does not inform us at what time, or by whom this castle was built. We however learn, from the public records, it was in being as early as the reign of King John ; for by his pa- tent, in the 17th year of his reign, Bryan dc I'lsle, a great baron of that time, was made governor thereof, and in the same year accounted for the fermes of the honour of Peverel and Bolsover. In the next year the said Bryan had the command of the King's forces raised against the barons, and was ordered to fortify the castle of Bolsover, and to hold it against them; but if he could not make it tenable, then to demolish it, whereby they might not have the advantage of it. It seems as if the castle was found defensible, and therefore not demolished in consequence of that order, but the command given to some other person ; for in the 7th of King Henry 111. Bryan de I'lsle was appointed governor of it, together with that of Peke; after which, by some means or otlier, he appears to have vacated at least one of these offices ; for in the 18th of the same reign he was once more made governor of Bolsover castle, in which year he died. VOL. viii. o From 50 DERBYSHIRE. From that time nothing remarkable occurs respecting this castle till about the year 1629, when divers repairs were made and new buildings added here by the Mar(|uis of Newcastle, in order to receive Kins; Charles the First. The initials IIC. CD. and AF. with the date 1629, appear cut on different stones set up in these buildings; probably they were the names of the persons em- ployed as architects. The chief of the additions here mentioned, was a gallery of stone seventy-two yards in length, and seven yards four inches in breadth within the ceiling: it has battle- ments on the top, and is a handsome regular structure. The following account of the taking of this castle by the par- liamentary forces, during the troubles under King Charles I. is given in a parliamentary Chronicle published by Vicars, entitled The Burning Bush not consumed. " Shortly after, (i. e. after Au- gust 16, 1664,) the noble Major-General having left Colonel Bright, a commander of my Lord Fairfaxe's, and a party of foot, in the castle (Sheffield) by order from the most noble Earl of Manchester, advanced towards Bowzan, alias Bolsover castle, about eight miles from Sheffield. It being another strong house of Marquesse Newcastle's, in Derbyshire, which was well man- ned with soldiers, and strengthened with great guns, one whereoi" carried eighteen pound bullet, others nine pound, and it had strong works about it ; yet this castle also u|)on summons was soon surrendered up to mylord's forces, upon faire and moderate articles granted to them. It pleased God to give us in this castle of Bolsover an hundred and twenty muskets, besides pikes, hul- bcrts, &c. Also one iron drake, some leaden bullets, two mortar pieces, %o\x\e other drakes, nine barrels of powder, with a pro- portion of match, some victuals for our souldicrs, and some plun- Two ensigns, each at - - - - Four Serjeants, each at . - . - Six corporals and two drummers, each at - Two hundred soldiers, each at - - Its present establishment is, A governor, whose annual salary is A Lieutenant-governor - - - _ Fort-major ------ Chaplain ------ AVith a master and other gunners. This view was drawn A.D. 1787. DORSET- per DieiD. £. s. d. 8 2 I 8 1 4 10 1 3 4 )- 8 4. 3 1 6 1 8 £.1289 2 6 - 182 JO - 73 - 121 13 4 [ 53 ] DORSETSHIRE. JOHN OF GAUNT'S KITCHEN, AT GREAT CANFORD. 1 HE buildings here chiefly represented were part of the offices of the ancient mansion, of the lords of the manor of Great Can- ford, at present known by the appellation of John of Gaiint's Kitchen. The small building seen in the corner of the view, is part of the present mansion, occasionally inhabited by Sir John Web, to whom the manor now belongs. Hutchins, in his History of Dorsetshire, supposes the ancient seat to which these offices belonged, to have been built by William Montacute, the first earl of Salisbury, or his father William, both great builders. The former lived in the reign of King Edward II. Of these ancient remains, as they stood before the year 1765, Hutchins gives the following description: In that year part of them were pulled down, but not the whole, as he supposes ; for the kitchen was standing in 17^5, when this view was drawn. " Adjoining to the north was, till very lately, a long range of the most ancient building in the county, the remains of the seat of the ancient lords of this manor. Near the east end were the remains of a very large gate, with a tower over it, of which only the stair-case remained. In the stable was a very large chimney without any funnel, and a vast square window reaching from the top to the bottom of the house, projecting above three feet; over this. ;\nother room, ascended to by narrow winding stone stairs, perhaps the dining-room, in which was a chimney like the former. Towards the west end was a largo old kitchen, called by the country people, John of Count's Kifchen. It was made a brew- VOL. VIII. p house, 04 DORS E TSUI R 1'.. liousc, and had a remarkably large chimney, cigiitocn feet broad, and six feet and a half high in the crown of the arch. The windows, though for the most part walled np, were some ellip- tical and some square, but did not project. On tiie outside of the cast end, were three very large chimnies entire, very broad at tlie bottom, but narrowing upwards by several inbenchings. The funnels were indented or embattled on the top; the doors were small and low ; some square, and the arches of others ellip- tical or circular; the walls in general four feet thick. 'J'hese buildings were entirely taken down 1765. The manor of Great Canford, very early after the Conquest, belonged to Peter Lucyan, In Doincsday-Book, Cheneford was held by Edward of Sarisburie ; and by marriage afterwards came to Henry earl of Lancaster. l6th Edward II. the King granted it to Hugh de Spenser, on whose attainder it escheated to the Crown, and 1st of Edward III. was granted by that king to John earl of Warren and Surry, and Johanna his wife, for their lives. iGth Edward III. the king made a reversionary grant of it to Alice Countess of Lincoln for life; but siie seems never to have possessed it. 35th Edward III. the manor was possessed by the Montagues ; in the 4th of Henry VI. was granted to the Duke of Bedford; and in the 17th of the same reign, to Henry Cardinal of Winchester, for life. In tlie4th of Edward VI. Canford was granted to the Duke of Somerset, and by his attainder reverting to the crown, it was in 1st of Mary granted to the Marchioness of Exeter in fee, who by her will, dated Aug. 27, 1557, bequeathed it to James Lord Mont- joy. She died A. D. 1558. In the year l6il, it was purchased by Henry earl of Huntingdon, and by him sold to Web. Canford Magna is about two miles soutli-east from Winborn Minster, on the south side of the river Stour, in the east part of the hundred, and belonged formerly to the Duchy of Lancaster. Here were formerly two parks. In the mansion-house, probably at the east end, was a chapel value 1 DORSETSHIRE. 55 value 10/. one chalice of six ounces, two silver spoons of two ounces; Robert Rcade, incumbent. h) the park adjoining to the garden, are four large chesnut trees, one of them measuring 37 feet round, slill bearing fruit plentifully, though much shivered and decayed by age ; in a field east of the chesuuts, is an oak called the Mountjoy oak, appa- rentl}' very ancient. THE KING'S TOWER AT CORFE CASTLE. FROXTISPIECE TO VOL. IT. 1 11 rs view shews the King's Tower, or keep, of that ancient castle, as viewed from the east ; the whole of which bears indis- putable testimony that violent means have co-operated with the slower ravages of time and weather, to bring it to its present rui- nous state. In some of those monstrous fragments scattered all around it, which could only have been disjointed by gunpowder, there are pieces of herring-boned work, such as are found in the oldest part of Guildford Castle. Indeed, by a careful investiga- tion ot these ruins, architecture of every age and style may be traced out from that species called Saxon, to that used in the days of Elizabeth and James I. This view was drawn anno 1781. POMERY, OR POUNDBURY CAMP, DORCHESTER. 1 liis was a Roman camp, and is described by Dr. Stukely, in his Itineranum Curiosum, in the following terms : " Itstands half a mile west of Dorchester, in a pasture called Pomery, upon the brink of the river, which is very steep ; the lorm square, the ram- part hig!i, but the ditch inconsiderable, exci pt at the angle by the river, because standing on a high ground : they dug the earth clear away before it, and threw it entirely into a vallum; so that its oG D O 11 S E T S II I R E. its height and steepness, wherein its strengtli consists, is the same as if 41 regular ditch was made in level ground : the chief entrance was on the soutli side. There was another next the river made with the greatest art ; for a narrow path is drawn all along between the edge of the precipice and the vallum ; and beyond the camp, west for a long way, a small trench is cut up on the said edge, which seems designed to prevent the ascent of cavalry, if they should pass the river. The ground rises in the middle, as was usual among the Romans. Near the south side isatuniulus too, which is probably Celtic, extant before the camp was made. The name Poundbury is taken from its enclosure round this tumulus as a pound." Coker, Camden, and Speed, (says Hutchins in his History of Dorsetshire,) with more probability make it a Danish work raised by Sweno, king of Denmark, A. D. 1002, when he besieged, took, and destroyed Dorchester. This opinion is countenanced by its situation, on an eminence, and opposite to the castle which lay east of it. It seems to derive its name of Pomery, from the Latin Pomae- rium, which, according to Livy, was a spaceof ground, both within and without the walls of a city, which the Augurs, at its first building, solemnly consecrated, and on which no edifices were suffered to be raised ; the form is a parallelogram, but the south vallum is somewhat shorter than the north. Its length 378 paces, the breadth 147 ; the vallum is pretty high ; on the north it is partly worn away, or was never raised ; on the east there ap- pears to have been a double one, part of which is discontinued. The principal entrance is on the east, besides which there are three more ; one at the north-east angle, another on the south- west, a third on the south side. In this field, and near this work, the knights of the shire are elected. On making the new way, a very little east of Segar's Orchard, at the entrance into Dorchester, the icening way was discovered and crossed; foundations of buildings were dug up, pieces of verv DORSETSHIRE. 57 very thick glass, ai)d fragments of Roman brick of a briglit red colour, from one to three inches thick, and none above six inches long; sonic appeared, by their concavity, to have ijclonged to a hypocaust. This view, which shews the cast aspect, was drawn unno I7o9. PORTLAND OLD CASTLE. This building, which stands a little to the eastward of the old church, and tifty steps of stone above it, appears to have been the keep of the castle; it seems very ancient, \i>, figure a jjcntagon ; on its top are several machicolations and loop holes. The founda- tion of it was much above the top of the tower of the church, and it must have been ahnost inipregnable before the invention of ordn:ince. It is vulgarly called the Bovre and Anoa> Caslle^ and the Castle of Ilufits, probably from a supposition, or some tradition, that it was built by that king. Anno 114?, it wa& taken by Robert carl of Gloucester, from King Stephen, for the Empress Maude. This view was drawn anno 1156. liiE ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE near DORCHESTER. 1 ms earthen work is universally allowed to have been a Roman aniphitheatre ; it is, for what reason is unknown, vulgarly calk d JMaiimbury. The following account of it is giveu in Hut- ehins's History of Dorsetshire : — "That in this parish (Fc^rding- ton) is situated on a plain in the open fields, about a quarter of a mile, or 1300 feet south-west from the walls of Dorchester, on a gentle ascent all the way to it, close by the Roman road, which runs thence to Weymouth. From it you see Pound burv. Mar- den castle, and the tops of the south hills, as far as the eye can reach, ct)vered with an incredible number of Celtic borrdwes. It VOL. VIII. Q is 58 D O R S E T S II I 11 E. is raised of solid chalk, upon a level, without an}' ditchahont it. 'J'he jambs at the entrance aie somewhat worn away. On the top there is a walk of eight feet broad, gradually ascending from the ends upon the longest diameter to its greatest elevation in the middle, upon the short diameter, where it reaches half way up the whole series of seats of the spectators, who thence distributed themselves therein from all sides without hurry. On the top is a terrace of twelve feet broad at least, besides the parapet out- wardly five feet broad, and four high, but soniewhat injured on the side next the gallows, by the trampling of men and horses at executions. There are three ways leading up to the terrace, one at the u[)perend over the cavea, and one on each side upon the shortest diameter, going from the tievatitl part of the circular walk. Several horses abreast may go up this, ascending by the ruins of the cavea. This receptacle of the gladiators, wild beasts, &.c. is supposed to have been at the upper end, under the ascent to tlie terrace, there being vaults under that part of the body of the work. The area is no doubt exceedingly elevated by manuring and plowing for many years, yet it still preserves a concavity; for the descent from the entrance is very great, and you may go down as into a shallow pit. 'J'hc middle part of it is now 10 or 12 feet lower than the level of the field ; and that, especially about the entrance, is much lowered by plowing, be- cause the end of the circular walk there, which should be even with the ground, is a good deal above it. On the outside of the upper end is a large round tumor, a considerable way beyond the exterior verge, and regular in figure, which certainly has been somewhat appertaining to the work. There are two rising squ.irc j)lots on the shortest diameter, four feet above the level of the walk or terrace, cai:)able of holding 24 people each. Their side breadth is \5 feet, their length from north to south 20; and they stand some what near the upper end, not precisely on the shortest diameter. There is a seeming irregularity of the terrace on both sides, at the lower end ; for it is higher within than without, yet this DORSETSHIRE'. 59 this produces no ill efiVct, but ratiier renders its appearance the more regular; for when you stand in the centre williin, the whole circuit of the terrace seems, and is really, of one level; but on the outside, the verge of the noth-easterly part is sloped of! gra- dually towards the entrance, where the declivity is conformable with it: hence the exterior contour also appears of an equal height. 'J'he circular walks cut the whole breadth into two equal parts upon the shortest diameter, probably making an equal number of seats above and under it. Dr. Stukely says, it is com- puted to consist of about an acre of ground, and was originally about 140 feet diameter in the shortest way, and 220 the longest. 'J'he famous amphitheatre at Veronals but 233 and 136, and the vast colisaum at Rome but 263 and l6o, reckoned by the French foot, a larger measure. By an accurate admeasurement taken for this work, it was found that the greatest perpendicular height of the rampart above the level of the Arena was -...-- External lomicst diameter External shortest diameter ... Internal longest diameter Internal shortest diameter - . , First ascent from the arena to the greatest curve height - - . - 30 The breadth of tlie side of the work, or solid, taken upon the ground plot, is equal to one half of the longest diameter of the area, or a fourth of the whole longest diameter. Its perpendicu- lar altitude, from the top of the terrace to the bottom of the area, is a fourth of the longest diameter of the area. In the n)iddle of each side is a cuneus, or parcel of scats, of near 30 feet broad, just over the more elevated part of the circular work, reaching up to tlie terrace, which swells out above the concavity of the whole, and answers to the risina; i>round in the middle of the terrace. Dr. Fed. Inches. 30 343 6 339 6 218 163 6 60 DORSETSHIRE. Dr. Stukely computes it capable of containing 12,960 persons. At Mrs. Channing's execution (A. D. 1705) there were supposed to be 10,000 spectators present, who filled the sides, top, and area of this work, which is the complelest of this kind in Eng- land. Some years ago a silver coin was ploughed up here, on the face of whicii was this inscription : IMP. M. IVL. PIllLIP- PVS, AVG. On the reverse LA UTiT. FENDAT. and a genius or Fortune, with a garland in the right hand, and a helm of a ship in the left. Thisetnperor reigned A. D. 240; but this work was probably made under the government of Agricola, who taught and encouraged the Britons to build temples, baths, and amphi- theatres, &c. in order to introduce luxury, and soften the fierce and rough temper of that j)eoplc." This view was drawn anno 1755. WINBURNE, TWINBORN, OR WYMBURN MINSTER. This plate gives a distant view of the ancient collegiate church of Winburne, called Wimburne IMinster. Of this church 'J'an- ner gives the following account; " Before A. D. 705, St. Cuthburga, daughter to Kendred, King of the West Saxons, and sister to King Ina, founded licre an abbey of holy virgins, to the honour of the Blessed Virgin Marv, wherein several of the Saxon kinss were buried. 'I'iii nunnery being destroyed by the Danes, one of the Edwards, kings of England, put in secular canons, so that it became a royal free chapel and collegiate, consisting of a dean, four prebendaries, three vicars, four deacons or secondaries, and five singing men; and since the suppression, there is a sort of choir preservcil, and some maintenance still allowed to three vicars (one of whom is styled the official), four singing men, six boys and an organist. This college, which was valued 26 Henry VIII. at 131/. 14s. with most DORSETSHIRE. 6l most of the lands belonging to the same, was grantvd 1 Edw. VI. to Edward Lord Clinton. " In this church was buried the body of St. Etheldred, king of the West Saxons, slain by the Pagan Danes on the 23d of April, anno 872. His monument is still shewn. " Tliis town is supposed to have taken its name of Twinborn from the rivers Stour and Allen, which meet near it." This view was drawn A. D. ITS^. ( VOL. VI I r. K DURHAM. [ C2 ] D U R II A M. GRETHAM HOSPITAL. J HIS hospital is situated near tho oastcrn extremity of tl>e count}', about four miles south of Hartlepool, and two west from the sea ; its foundation is said by Godwin to liave originated from the following cause: King Henry HI. having slain Simon de IMontfort, who had rebelled against him, seized on all his estates, whereupon Robert Slichel, bishop of Durham, as a prince pala- tine, seized on those within his jurisdiction, as escheats to him; these being also claimed by the king, the cause was tried, and de- termined in favour of the bishop, who with the lands adjudged to him, founded this hospital in honour of God, St. Mary, and St. Cuthbert, for a master and brethren, and for the relief of such poor and needy persons as should resort thither; for which pur- pose he endowed it with the manor of Gretham and other lands. He also granted to the master and brethren of this House, an ex- emption from all tolls, aids, and tallages; and to all their bene- factors, being contrite and confessed, he released forty days' pen- nance. This deed, which is confirmed by Hugh, prior of Dur- ham, and the convent there, bears date A. D. 1262. Its revenues were valued, 26th Henry VHI. at iOO/. Os. 3d. ob. in the whole, and 97^- 65. 3id. clear. Tanner says, it seems to be yet in being, and the mastership of it to be in 'he gift of the Bishop of Dur- ham. ^This view was drawn anno 1778. MONKS / D U R II A M. 63 MONKS WEREMOUTIL M.OXKS AVercniouth stands at the north nioutli of the river \\ ere, opposite to Sunderland. King Egfrid gave the town to tlie famous Benedict Biscopins, who, A.D. 674, founded a monastery here, and dedicated it to St. Peter. It suffered in the Danish wars, and was burned in the inroad made by Malcolm king of Scotland, A. D. IO7O; but was afterwards begun to be re-edified by M'alcher, bishop of Dur- ham, to which Wereraouth became a cell for three or four Bene- dictine monks. It was valued, 26 Hen. VIII. at 2.5/. 8s. 4d. jkt ann. Dugd. 26/. Speed ; and was granted 37 Hen. VIII. to Tho. Whitehead. This church, which has long served for parochial uses, is said lo have belonged to the monastery. It had some resemblance to the church at Jarrow, and has of late been repaired. This drawing, which was made in the year 1779> shews the most ancient part of the building. ESSEX. [ 64 ] ESSE X. THE PRIORY OF LITTLE DUNMOW. J HIS monastery was founded A. D. 1104, by the Lady Juga, sister of Ral()h Baynard, who built here a church dedicated to the honour of the Blessed Virgin Alary, which was consecrated by Maurice, bishop of London. Two years afterwards her son Jetfry placed therein canons, who shortly after their introduction observed the rule of St. Augustine. The priory consisted of a prior, and ten or eleven religious, whose annual income at the suppression was estimated at 150/. 34-. 4(1. Dugdale, 173/. 2s. Ad. Speed. The list of the priors may be seen in Newcourt. The scite and manor of this priory were at the dissolution granted to Robert earl of Sussex, and was sold by Earl Edward to Sir Henry Mildmay, of Moulsham, Knt. who held it in 1640. It afterwards belonged to Sir William Wylde, Knt. and Bart, recorder of London, and one of the justices of the King's Bench, who dying 23d of November, I769: his sister and heir Anne brought it in marriage to John Cochman, M. D. ; whose only daughter marrying Nicliolas Tooke, Esq. it came into that family. The monastery is now entirely razed ; it was pleasantly situated on a rising ground. The foundations of the old building are visible on the south-west side of the church. The present manor- house stands on the scite of the offices of the priory. The collegiate church was a large and stately fabric, the roof sustained with rows of columns, whose capitals are ornamented with oak leaves, elegantly carved ; some of them remain. The part which now makes the parish church, was the east end of the choir, ^ N =s- ^ ii'lll'i ■''.IJ'h'-Mni uM\t^' Ml^ m ESSEX. 65 choir, with the north aisle. This church, dedicntcfl to St. Mary, served for tlie j)arish as well as the convent. The prior and canons presented one of their body to the bishop to serve the cure ; but he was not instituted, as in a rectory or vicarage. Sinee the suppression it is only a donative, or curacy, in the gift of tin: lord of the manor, and now of James Hallet, Esq. Here, under an arch in the south wall, is an ancient chest-like tomb, supposed to contain the body of the foundress Lady Juga. Near the same spot is a monument said to have been that of Wal- ter Fitz-Walter, the first of that name, who died anno liyS, and was buried with one of his wives in the middle of the choir, whence it has been removed to its present situation ; at least the alabaster figures of Sir Walter and his lady, who are now laid on an altar tomb, are considerably too short for them. These figures are well executed for the time in which they were done, but arc much defaced, probably by the removal, particularly the man, whose legs are broken off at the knees. The lady has on a tiara, or mitre-like head-dress, ornamented with lace, ear-rings, and a neck-lace; at her feet, on that side next her husband, is a small dog, so much defaced as to be scarce distinguishable. Sir Walter is represented in a plate armour, under it a shirt of mail, which appears at his collar, and below the skirts of his armour. There is something remarkable in the appearance of his hair, which seems to radiate from a centre somewhat like the caul of a wig, but curling inwards. This fashion of hair, or wig, (for it appears doubtful which was intended,) is observable on divers monuments of the same age, as is also the head-dress of the lady. Opposite this monument, l)etween two pillars, on the north side of the choir, is the tomb of the fair Matilda, daughter of the second W alter Fitz- Walter, who, according to the Monkish story, unsupported by history, is pretended to have been poisoned by the contrivance of King John, for refusing to gratify his illicit passion. Her figure is in alabaster, and by no means a des- picable piece of workmanship. Her fingers are stained with a red VOL. viir. s colour, 60 ESS EX. coldiir, wliicli, according to the Ciceroni of the place, was done to represent the effects of the poison ; but in all likelihood is the remains of a former painting. Both this figure, and that of the Lady Fitz-Walter, afford accurate specimens of the necklaces, car-rings, and other ornaments worn by the ladies of those days. Among the jocular tenuies of England, none have been more talked of than the bacon of Dunmow. By whom, or at what period, this custom was instituted, is not certain ; but it is gen- rally ascribed to one of the family of Fitz-Walter. A similar custom is observed at the manor of Wichenor, in Staffordshire, Avhere corn as well as bacon was given to the happy pair. By the ceremonial instituted for this occasion at Dunmow, the party claiming the bacon, therein styled the pilgrim, was to take the following oath, kneeling on two sharp pointed stones in the churchyard, the convent attending, and using many ceremonies, and much singing, in order to lengthen out the time of his painful situation : You shall swear by custom of confession, That you ne'er made nuptial transgression; Nor since you were married man and wife. By houshold brawls^ or contentious strife, Or otherwise in bed or at board, Offended eacli other in deed or in word ; Or since the parish clerk said Amen, Wished yourselves unmarried again ; Or in a twelve month and a day, Repented not in thought any way; But continued true in thought and desire, As when you joined hands in holy quire. If to these conditions, without all fear, Of your own accoid you will freely swear, A whole gammon of bacon you shall receive. And bear it hence with love and good leave ; For this is our custom at Dunmow, well known, Tho' the pleasure be ours, the bacon's your own. The ESSEX. fi7 Then the pilgrim was taken on men's shoulders, and carried first about the priory churchyard, and afterwards throuLdi the town, attended by the convent, the bacon being borne in triumph l)efbre him. This is the form given by Mr. Moranl : but, from the words of the oath, it seems as if it sliould be taken by both man and wife. The sharp stones on which the party was to kneel, are now re- moved and lost. The following list of persons who have demanded and received this bacon, is recorded in a MS. in the college of arms, marked L. \4, page 226. Aimo 23d Hen. VI. Richard Wright of Brad- bourghe, near the city of Norwich, in Co. Norfolk, den^.andcd the bacon on the 7th of Aiiril in the said vear, and beins; dulv sworn before John Cannon, prior of this place, and the whole convent, and many neighbours, there was delivered to him one flitch of bacon. Stephen Samuell, of Little Ayston, in Co. Essex, husbandman, came to the priory on Lady- Day in Lent, 7th of Edw. IV. and having taken tlie oath prescribed before Roger Bulcott,then prior, and the n<*ighbours then assembled, had a jjammon of bacon. Anno 2d Hen. VIII. 1510, Thomas Lefidler, of Cogshall, in Essex, taking the usual oath on the 8th of September, before John Tils, then prior, there was delivered to him a gammon of bacon. — From these entries it appears that some of the claimants had a flitch, and others only a gammon of bacon ; by what rule these deliveries were regulated is not mentioned. To these Mr. Morantadds the following: — At a Court- Baron of Sir riiomas May, Knt. holden 7th June, 1701, before Thomas Wheeler, gent.-steward, the homage jury being five fair ladies, spinsters ; namely Elizabeth, Henrietta, Annabella, and Jane Beaumont, and Mary Wheeler ; they found that John Reynolds, of Hatfield Brodoke, gent, and Anne his wife, and William Varsiey, of Much Easton, butcher, and Jane his wife, by means of their peaceable, tender, and loving cohabitation, for the space of 68 ESSEX. of throe years last past unci upwards, were fit and qualified per- sons to be admitted by the court to receive the ancient and accustomed oath, whereby to intitle themselves to have the bacon of Diinmow delivered unto them, according to the custom of" the manor; and tliey having taken the oath kneeling on two great stones, near the church door, the bacon was delivered to each couple. The last that received it, were John Shakeshanks, woolcomber, and Anne his wife, of Wethersfield, 20th June, 1751 ■ Since which some persons having demanded it, it has, as is said, ^been refused, probably from conjugal affection not being now so rare as heretofore, or because qualification oaths are now supposed to be lield less sacred. riiis view was drawn anno 1775. WALDEN CASTLE. liiis castle (Alorant says) was begun by Geffrey de Mande- ville, who came over with the Conqueror, and so distinguished himself, that William rewarded him with no less than an hundred and eighteen lordships, forty of which were in this county; Wal- den was one of them. It became afterwards the head of the barony, and descended to his son William de Mandeville, who joining with the Empress Maude, King Stephen caused him to be arrested at court, then A. D. 1143, held at St. Alban's. In order to obtain his liberty, he surrendered up his castles of Walden and Plasiz ; but after his release again appeared under arms against the king, and com- mitted many outrages; among others he seized and plundered the abbey of Ramsey in Huntingdonshire, for which he was excommunicated : at length, besieging the king's castle at Bur- well, he received a wound in the head, of which he died 14th Sept. 1 144. Some of the Knights Templars having got his body, caused the brain and bowels to be taken out, the body to be salted, ESSEX. eg salted, and sewed up in a hide, and afterwards to be put up in a Jcadcn coffin, which they hung on a croaked tree in their orchard, at tlie Old Temple, London : hut tlie excommunication beincr afterwards taken off, they buried it privately in the churchyard of the New Temple. Geffery, his second son, had his father's estates restored to him, and they remained in the family till the extinction of the male line. Tiie earldom of Essex, with these lands and castle, were, by King John, A. D. 1199, granted to Jcffry Fitz-Piers ; after which, by default of issue-male, they came to Maude, wife of Henry de Buhun, earl of Hereford, lord liigh- constahle of England, and contmued in that family for many descents. Humphry de Bohun, A. ]) 13i7, had license to em- battle his manor-house of Walden ; his son dying A. D. 1 J72, and leaving only two daughters, one of v/hom, named Mary, mar- rying Henry earl of Derby, afterwards king, by the title of Henry IV. the manor and castle of Walden came to the Crown, and, in riglit of his mother, descended to King Ijeurv V. It remaintd ni the Crown till granted by King lleniy Vlil. to Thomas Audeley. From the Lord Auddey this castle, manor, and other great estates hereabouts, devolved to the nobU* t'anuly of Howard earls of Suffolk; and in 1777, when this drawing was ina Arthur's round (able, which is eighteen feet diameter. Round it, in the ancient character, arc inscribed the names of several of King Arthur's knights, spoken of in old romances, such as Sir Launcelot de Lake, Sir Tris- tram, Sir Pelleas, Sir Cewain, Sir Gereth, &c. &c. Although this table is certainly not of the age pretended, it is nevertheless a piece of antiquity, and was probably macre and used for some great festival, wherein those fabulous knights were re- presented; a matter by no means uncommon on those occa- sions; one instance of which occurs in the entertainment of Queen Eli^iabcth at Kenilworth Castle. Paulus Jovius, vrho wrote above 200 years ago, relates that this table was shewn to the Emperor Charles V. and at that time many marks of its an- tiquity had been destroyed, the names of the knights being then just written afresh, and the table, with its whole ornaments, newly repaired. This castle was not only a royal residence, but here also par- liaments were assembled and important causes tried. It was besides the scene of divers other remarkable events, a chrono- logical account of some of which here follow: In this castle, about the year 1006, Archbishop Stigand, when degraded, was confined by William the Conqueror; where he remained during his life. And in 1072, in this chapel was tried a famous cause concerning the superiority of the see of Canter- bury over that of York, before Hubert, the Pope's legate, King William, and all the bishops and abbots of the kingdom. In the year 1075, Waltheof earl of Northumberland, being accused and convicted of high treason, was beheaded before the gates of this castle. In the year 11-il, this castle was occupied, victualled, gar- voL. viii. z risoned, 86 HAMPSHIRE. risoned, and defended, h}' the Empress Maude, for several weeks, against the wife of King Steplicn ; hut the supply of water being cut off, Maude escaped to Oxford, and the castle was surrendered. Several parliaments were held here in the reign of Henry 11. When King Richard I. went to tlit holy war in 1184, he com- mitted this castle to the keeping of Hugh, bish')p of Durham, as one of the most important places in Ins dominions ; but there being some grounds of suspicion, that the kind's brother intend- ed to usurp the throne, Gdbert Lacy spcuied this castle for the king, who, returning from the Holy Land, was here ciowned again, (though he had been bt-foie crownt-d at Canterbury, by Baldwin, arclibishop of Cant»M-bury,) in llbQ- Anno l'ii6", when Lewis the Daupliin invadrd this kingdom, he attempted, but in vain, to make himself nuisttr uf tliis castle, which was defended by the citizens. In this castle Henry HI. sat as judge, and himself tried many prisoners; here too, during the same reign, the citizens found a retuge from the cruelties of the array of the barons, com- manded by the Earl of Leicester, who in vain attempted to reduce it by force. Anno 1302, here King Edward confined the bishop of St. Andrew, whom he found in arms against him in Scotland, allow- ing him sixpence per day for his diet and expences, three-pence for his servant, and for a chaplain and a boy three halfpence. — This view, wliich shews the north-cast aspect, was drawn A. D. 178L AVINCHESTER OLD MINSTER, NOW THE CATHEDRAL. Ihe account given by Tanner of this foundation is related in these worda; — Here is said to have been a monastery very early, founded HAMPSHIRE. 87 founded by King Lucius, for monks following the rule of St. j\Iaik, which was destroyed in Dioclesian's persecution, A. D. 266, but restored under Dcodatus the abbot, in honour of St. Ainphibalus, about the year 300; after which it continued about 200 years, till the monks were killed, and their church turned into a pagan temple, for the idolatrous worship of DaTon, by Cerdic, king of the West Saxons. These, and other matters relating to religious men in this city, being so particularly and positively asserted by Rudburn and the Winchester Annalist, could not well be here omitted, though they seem to be very fabulous. It is more likely that Kynegilse, the first Christian king of the West Saxons, began a cathedral church here, which might be finished by his successor Kinewalcus, and monks placed herein by Bishop Biiin, in the year 6^6. These were destroyed by the Danes, A. D. 867, and in the next year secu- lar priests took possession of this church and the lands belonging to it, and kept the same till A D 9^3, when Bishop Ethel- wold, by the command of King Edgar, expelled them, and placed here monks of the order of St. Benedict, brought from Abendon. 'I'his church was anciently dedioated to the Holy Trinity, or to St. Peter, as others, to St. Birin, St, Swithen, and St. Ethelwold : but in later times, St. Swithen the bishop was chiefly accounted the tutelar saint of this priory which was generally distinguished by his name. It was endowed, at the general suppression, with l.K)?/ 17*'. 2rf. per ann. (Dugd. Speed) ; after which the scite and great part of the revenues were settled by King Henry VIII. anno regni 32, on a dean and twelve pre- bendaries, for whom, and six minor canons, ten lay clerks, eight choiristers, and other members, this cathedral was then re -founded, and dedicated to the Holy and Uudivided Trinity. Tliepresent edifice was, according to the lii>;tory of Winchester, begun by I>ishop Walkrlyn, a Norman, in the reign of William the Con(jueror, A. D. 1079. He finished the tower, the choir, the trausepi, and probably the west end ; and on St. Swithen's day. 88 H A M P S 11 I U E. day, A. D. 1093, the monks, in the presence of almost all the bishops and abbots in the kingdom, passed with much solem- nity from the old monastery into the new one, translating the shrine of that saint to the new church. The whole was after- wards rej)aired and improved by William of Wickham, and finished as it now appears, by Bishop Fox, who died A. D. 1528, and was a great contributor and benefactor to it. Great part of the monastery and out-buildings have been demolished since the new foundation, as useless. The length of this venerable pile, from cast to west, is five hundred and forty-five feet; of these, our Lady's chapel includes fifty-four; and the choir about one hundred and thirty-six. The length, from the iron door near the entrance of the choir to the porch at the west end, is three hundred and fifty-one feet; the length of the transepts is an hundred and eighty-six feet; the breadth of the body, below the transepts, is eighty-seven feet, and of the choir, forty. The vaulting in the inside is twenty-six feet high ; the exact height of the tower is one hundred and thirty-eight feet and a half; and its area fifty feet by forty-eight. This tower is carried up a very little height above the roof, not more than twenty-six feet, and has no proper finishing, but is covered in, as if the building had been left off, which very probably might be the case ; for there is strength enough below to support a higher steeple than that of Salisbury. This view, which shews the south-east aspect of the cathedral, was drawn from Dr. Lowth's garden, in the year 1781. The building seen on the south side, is his prebendal house. HERT- / [ «9 J HERTFORDSHIRE. ST. ALBAN'S ABBEY. Tins Abbey stands near the ancient Roman city of V'erulam, in Saxon times called Verlam Ceaster or \Vatlin2 Ccaster, in a place at the time of its erection named Holmhurst, said to be the spot whereon St. Alban snffered martyrdom, in a persecu- tion of the Christians by the Emperor Dioclesian. Ten years after this persecution had ceased, the surviving Christians built a church to his memory; but that having been destroyed in the wars between the Britons, Picts, and Saxons, Offa the Great, king of Mercia, repaired the old church, and, about the year 793, founded a noble abbey for Benedictine monks, and translated hither the relics of St. Alban, and placed them in a shrine, having first obtained his canonization from Pope Adrian. To this monastery he gave great endowments and revenues, and in a council at Colcyth made constitutions for their government and security. In the year 1154, Nicholas bishop of Alba (an Englishman, born near this monastery), being chosen Pope, assumed the name of Adrian IV. He granted many privileges to this abbe}- ; among them were these: — 1. That as St. Alban was the first Bri- tish martyr, this abbot should be the first abbot in England, and take place of all others. — 2. Tiiat the abbot or monk whom he should appoint archdeacon, should have a pontifical jurisdic- tion over the priests and laymen in all the possessions belonging to this church. — S. That no archbishop, bishop, nor legate, should visit or interfere with the affairs of this monastery, whicli might VOL. VIII. A A be 90 II E R T r O R D S H I R E. he regulated only by the pope himself. — 4. That the abbot should collect and receive the Ilomescot, or Peter-pence, through all the county of Hertford ; privileges then enjoyed by no other prior or abbot in the realm. KinfT Otia, when he first founded this monastery, also erected many houses near it, for the reception of strangers and travel- lers, and the necessary lodgings of the servants and officers. They, in process of time, increased to a town, which was called St. Alban's, after the saint to wliom the house was dedicated. At the dissolution, 26 Hen. VIII. this abbey was, according to Dugdale, valued at 2102/. 7s- 1^- ob. q. per annum. Speed gave it at 2510/. 6s. Id. ob. q. The church, since made use of as parochial, and a great part of its scite, were 7 Edw. VI. j granted to the mayor and burgesses. The history of the abbots of this house is given in Browne Willis's Mitred Abbeys, wherein we meet with many particulars respecting different repairs and erections on this venerable pile. The following account of the state of the abbot of ttiis house, taken from a MS. paper in the library of Thomas Astle, Esq. will give the reader a good idea of the riches and magnificence of the convent. This paper is in the hand-writing of Eiias Ash- mole, and dated 26 August, l668. INIr. Robert Shrimptoii, grandfather, by the mother's side, to Mrs. Simpson of St. Alban's, was four times mayor of tliat town; he died about sixty years since, being then about 103 years of age. He lived when the abbey of St Alban's flourished before the dissolution, and remembered most thino;s relatino; to the buildings of the abbe}', the regimen of the house, the cere- monies of the church, and grand processions; of all which he woulil often discourse in his life-tune. Among other things, that in the great hall there was an ascent of fifteen steps to the abi)i)t's table, to which the monks brought up the service in plate, and staying at every fifth step, which was a landing place, on every of which they sung a short hymn. The abbot usually sat H E R T F O II D S ri I R E. ol sat alone in the middle of the table; and whr>n any nobleman or ambassador, or stranger of eminent quality, came tliiilier, they sat at his table, towards the ends thereof. Afu r the monks had waited awhile on the abbot, they sat down at two other tables, placed on the sides of the hall, and had their services brought in by the novices, who, when the monks had dined, sat down to their own dinner. This Mr. Shrimptoii remembered, that when the news came to St. Alban's, of Queen Mary's death, ihe late abbot, for grief, took to his chamber, and died in a fortnight. He also remenjbered the hollow image erected near St. xVl- ban's shrine, wherein, one being placed to govern the wires, the eyes would move and head nod, accordmg as he liked or dis- liked the oft'ering ; and being young, he had many times crept into the hollow part thereof. In tiie grand processions through the town, where the image of St. Alban was carried, it was usually borne by two monks, and after it had been set down a while at the market cross, and the monks essaying to take it up agam, they pretended they could not stir it, and then the abbot coming and laying his crosier upon the image, and saying these Avords, — Arise, arise, St. Alban, and get thet home to thy sanctuary ; it then Ibrthwith yielded to be borne by the monks. In the abbey there was a large room, having beds set on either side for the receipt of strangers and pilgrims, where they had lodging and diet for three days, without question made whence they came, or whither they went; but after that time they staid not, with- out rendering an account of both. This view, whirl) was taken from the upper room of the parsonage-house, A. D. 17^7, shews the south-west aspect of the building. TI1£ 92 II y. Pv T F O R D S H I R E. THE GAOL OF ST. ALBAN'S. This gate was built about the year IO9O, by Paul or Paulinus, tlie Iburleenth abbot ; who, as Willis relates, rebuilt the church and all the other structures, but the bake-house and pantry, out of the stones, tiles, and wooden materials of Verulam, which his |)rcdecessors had reserved. i\Iatthe\v Paris says, that when he had finished the church, he built a dark prison for disobedient monks; and it is said there was a communication from the great church to the Gaol, though long since broken down. 'J'his gate is chiefly of stone, and though not elegant or orna- mented, is strong and well proportioned ; the groin-work of the inside of the gate, is at this time in perfect repair. There are, on each side the arch, three rooms ; these are likewise arched or groined, and still perfect and strong, so as to be used for the confinement of prisoners ; this building at present serving for the gaol of this liberty or district. The small erections adjoining to it have been lately added, and are the house for the gaoler, and other necessary offices. — This view, which shews the south front, was drawn A. D. 1787. BERGHAMSTED CASTLE. J5iiRGii.\MSTED Castle is supposed to have been the palace of the kings of Mercia ; among whom, Withred, king of Kent and Mercia, A. D. 697, held a great council at this place, and pro- bably in this castle, whereat Birtwald, archbishop of Canterbury, })resided ; Gybmund, bishop of Rochester, and divers other pre- lates and great personages, were also present. Here divers laws, printed in Chauncey's History of Hertfordshire, were enacted. After the battle of Hastings, William the Conqueror here lialted for some days with his army, in order to meet archbishop L an franc. ^ i ^ < « •^ i 1^ 1 II E R T F R D S III R E. 93 Lanfranc, with the great lords and nobles of England; and here he received their oaths of allegiance, on his solemn enoa<'einent by oath to observe and keep inviolable the ancient laws of the kingdom, which the preceding kings of England, especially King Edward, had ordained. Notwithstanding this engagement, he seis^ed the estates of many of the great English land-holders, and gave them to his Norman followers. Among these donations was the town of Bcrghanisted, which he gave to his half-brother, Robert earl of Moreton, who fortified the castle with a double trench and ran)part. On William earl of Moreton, his son, engaging in a rebellion against Henry I. in Normandy, all his estates in Eng- land were seized, and his castle razed to the ground ; by which this town and manor came to the crown, where it remained till the year 1206, 7lh of John, when that king granted the castle and honour of Berghamsted to Jeoflfry Fitzpiers, earl of Essex, with the knight's fee thereto belonging, in fee-farm for an hun- dred pounds per annum, to hold to him and the heirs of his body, by Aveline then his wife. Anno 1215, l6th John, this castle and town were again in the Crown ; for when the barons lay still, King John possessed himself of the castle, and ap- pointed Ranulph, the German, to have the custody thereof. When Lewis the Dauphin of France invaded this realm, A. D. 1216, he laid siege to this castle; the garrison, taking advantage of the negligence of the besiegers, made two successful sallies, taking divers chariots, provisions, and a banner of William earl of Mandeville; but, after a long siege, the King commanded them to yield it up to the Dauphin. In the second year of the reign of Henry HI. this castle was again in the Crown, and by that king given to Richard, his younger brother, for his good services at the siefre of the castle of Riole in France ; but he shortly alter took it away from \\\m, on account of a dispute ; but by the iiilerposition of the earls of Pembroke and Chester, it was restored lo liim, and was held by Edmun I his son, earl of Cornwall : he dymg without issue, in VOL. VIII. B B the 94 II K 11 T F O W D S II 1 R E. tlio year J 300, at the college of Bonhomes, which he had rounded, this castle and honour reverted to the Crown, and was, A. 1). 1308. 1st of Edward II. granted to Piers Gaveston, cre- ated earl of Cornwall. He being executed, the castle. Sec. came back to the Crown, and was, in the year 1311, 4th of Edward III. granted with the town, honour, and divers other manors, valued at 20C() marks per annum, to John of Eltham, earl of Cornwall, second son to King Edward II. in tail general. He dying without issue. King Edward advanced Edward his eldest son, called the Black Prince, to the dukedom of Cornwall, and gave iiim, among the other estates belonging to the title, this castle and honour, to beheld by him and his heirs, and the eldest sons of the heirs of the kings of England. A. D. 1388, 11 Rich. II. when Robert de Veer was advanced to the title and dignity of Marquis of Dublin, and afterwards Duke of Ireland, that king gave him liberty to reside at this castle, which was one of his own royal palaces, allowing him wood and fuel to be taken out of his woods and park for his firing. A. D. 1400, Henry of Monmouth, afterwards king by the title of Henry V. possessed this castle, honour, and town ; as did, in 14-22, Henry of Windsor, his eldest son ; to whose eldest son, Edward of Westminster, it was granted in the year 1454; but when Henry VI. his father, was deposed, they came into the possession of Edward IV. who granted the stewardship of this castle and lordship, anno liGl, the first year of his reign, to John lord Wenlock, one of his privy-counsellors. Richard III. is gaid to have been born at this castle, and here died Cicely, daughter of Ralph Nevil, earl of Westmoreland, mother of King Edward IV. Since this time this castle and honour have been annexed to the dukedom of Cornwall, and appropriated to the princes of Wales successively. A. D. 1560, Queen Elizabeth demised the scite of the castle, ciicuit, and precinct, to Sir Edward Carey, for a term of years, under the yearly rent of a red rose, payable to the queen, at tne feast of St. John the Baptist, and by otiier letters patent demised HERTFORDSHIRE. 95 ileniised to him two water-mills, in this town and lordship, under the yearly rent of ?/. 8s. ; and the same queen did grant, by her letters patent, the mansion-house, with the lodge and park, to Sir Edward Carey and the Lady Paget his wife, and to the heirs male of their bodies for ever, to hold of the queen, her heirs and successors, as of this lordship, by fealty only in free soccage, and not in capite, rendering a fee-farm rent of 8/. 6s. 8d. And the said queen, by letters patent, in the second year of her reign, constituted this Sir Edward Carey, high steward of this honour and manor. This Sir Edward Carey obtained a lease of this castle and manor, and from him they came to Sir Adolph Carey; who dying the 10th of April, I609, it descend- ed to Sir Edward Carey, who succeeded him ; and two third parts of the manor-house being burnt down, about thirty years since, he repaired the house : but not above a third part, or a little more, remains now standing, and yet it is a very fair large building ; but he since sold the same to John Sayer, Esq. who held it some time, and died possessed thereof on the 11th of February, l682, leaving issue three sons, John, Edward, and Joseph; whereof John and Joseph are dead, and Edward is now the present i)osses8or. — It has, since this account given b^' Chauncey, been purchased by one of the family of Roper, in whose descendant it still remains. This castle was of an oval form, surrounded by adouble ditcli and ramparts of earth ; these are still remaining. The whole scite, ditches included, according to the present occupier, mea- sures about eleven acres. A few fragments of the surrounding walls are standing here and there, but none that retain any marks of ornament. South-east of the area of the castle, is a high artificial mount, on which the keep formerly stood : it is called the tower-hill, and measures about 40 feet diameter on the top ; a wall, now overgrown with trees, shrubs, and brambles, runs up to the top of it : there is another mount much smaller, near the western side or extremity. There has been a good deal of building here at different times. On digging within the area of the gd HERTFORDSHIRE. the castle, two brick floors or pavements, one a few feet under the other, were discovered. A small cottage has been built out of the ruins, wherein the tenant resides. It is worthy observation, that this castle, like many others of ancient date, is commanded by a hill at a very small distance fron) it, which seems to prove that the ranges of the machines used formerly in sieges, were very small. — This view was drawn A. D. 1787, and shews the north-east aspect. SOPEWELL NUNNERY, NEAR ST. ALBANS. I HIS nunnery, which is situated a small distance south-west of the town of St. Alban, according to tradition, owes its origin to the following circumstance : Two religious women, whose names are forgotten, having made themselves a kind of a hermitage with branches of trees, and covered it with leaves and bark, near Eywood, by the river-side, dwelt there a considerable time, leading lives of such abstinence, chastity, charity, and piety, that the fame thereof reached the ears of Jeffery, the 16"th abbot of St. xVlban's ; who, about the year 1140, built them a cell, and caused them to be cloathed like nuns, and to assume the rules of St. Benedict. For their support, he gave them certain lands and rents ; and to preserve their fame from the assaults of scandal, he ordered they should always be locked up in their house, and that their number should not exceed thirteen, all select virgins ; though at the dissolution there were only nine. He also allotted them a burying ground, which he caused to be consecrated, but with a restriction that none but the nuns of that house should be buried there; probably to prevent this abbey from being deprived of the advantages arising from the sepulture of great and rich personages. 'I'his house was subject to the abbey of St. Alban's, and dedicated to the honour of the Blessed Virgin. Henry de Albaneio and Ciceley his wife, with Roger his brother, and Robert his son, gave two hides and one virgate of land, ^ 5 * liSS**!, 'Ml II E II 1' F O R D S H I R E. 97 land, in their manor of Cotes, and Richard de Taney his land, called Blackhide in the soke of Tidehang, to God, Mary the mother of Clirist, and the maidens of this cell. Upon the disso- lution, King Henry VIII. in the 30th year of his reign, granted it to Sir Richard Leigh, Knt. from whose family it passed by a daughter to Edward Sadler, second son of Sir Ralph Sadler, made a banneret for his gallant behaviour at the battle of Musselboroiigh, 1st Edward VI. In his descendants it re- mained, till, on the failure of issue-male, it went in marriage to Thomas Saunders, of Flamsted, Esq. who sold it to Sir Harbottle Grimstoii, Bart, from whom it devolved to the Lord Grimston, the present proprietor. From the style of these ruins, as well as from their beino^ chiefly built with brick, they cannot be of much elder date than the reign of Henry Xll. or VIII. and possibly may be the remains of a mansion, built b}' Sir Richard Leigh with some of the materials, and on the scite of the nunnery. When Chaunccy's history of Hertfordshire was written, this house was entire, or at least is so represented in the plan, and is in some old surveys called Sopewell Hall and Sopeweil House. It is said that about fifty or sixty years ago, the buildings here were in such a state as to make Lord Grimstone doubtful which of the two, this mansion or that of Gorehambury, he should fit up for his resi- dence. On one of the walls of the garden, are two square tablets of stone, on each of which is carved a dexter hand and arm, con)pletely armed, holding a sword engrailed, with some- thing like a scrawl under it. As these are inclosed, and only to be viewed at a distance, there may possibly be some minute parts or members of this piece of sculpture left out in the des- cription. The yearly value of this house, at the dissolution, is estimated by Dugdale at 40/. 7s. lOcL Speed makes it 68/. 8s. It is said that Henry VIII. was married to Anne Boleyn at this place. This view was drawn A. D. 1787. VOL. VIII. c c KENT. [ 98 ] KENT. MAIDSTONE BRIDGE, (Plate I.) It is uncertain at what time this bridge was built. Newton, in his Antiquities of Maidstone, says, " At the bottom of the high street is a fair stone bridge, built across the Medway, of seven arches; it is supposed, with great probability, that it was first built by some of the Archbishops of Canterbury, who, as we have seen, were lords of the manor : however, I do not find any evidence, at what time it was erected, or by whom. It was, in the reign of King James I. repaired by an assessment on the town and parish." This view, which shews the north side of the bridge, was drawn anno 1760. MAIDSTONE BRIDGE, (Plate IT.) A HE south side of this bridge is here exhibited : over it is seen the roof of a building, situate on the western bank of the river, a small distance north of the bridge ; which buildins;, from a cross over its easternmost end, appears to have been a chapel or oratory. The river Medway rises in Ashdowne forest, in Sussex, and, passing through Kent, discharges itself near the Isle of Sheppey, by which it is divided into two branches, one called the East, and the other the West Swale. It is navigable for barges of fifty or sixty tons, as high as Maidstone, and is crossed I-- ■4.. I I I I KENT. 99 crossed by several bridges ; the chief are those of Maidstone, Aylsford, and Rochester. This view was drawn anno 1760. RUINED OFFICES IN ST. AUGUSTINE'S MONAS- TERY, CANTERBURY. Ihe buildings here represented, stand within the walls of the monastery, north of the church ; tlie gate is of brirk, and has, over the centre of its arch, two qnatre feuillcs, a fleur de lis, and a rose moulded in brick earth, before burning, and afterwards burned ; these stand singly one aljove the other, with three small escutcheons of the same material workmanship, beneath the whole. This gate, from its style and bricks, seems to have been built about the time of Henry VIII. or EMzabeth. Adjoining to its south side is a small neat building, probably, before the dissolution, a chapel, or some other office of the mo- nastery, but, when this drawing was taken, A. D. 1750, was con- verted to an oust or kiln for drying hops. Between two win- dows near its north end, was carved, on a square stone tablet, the figure of a mitre and a ton, possibly a rebus of the name of the builder, founder, or some benefactor. ST. GREGORY'S PRIORY, CANTERBURY. Mr. Gostling, in his Walk, gives the following account of this |)riory : St. Gregory's was a large handsome house of stone, built by Archbishop Lanfranc, 1084, who added to it several dwellings, well contrived for the wants and conveniencies of those who should live there, with a spacious court adjoining. This palace, for so Edmer calls it, he divided into two parts, one 100 KEN T. one for men lal^ouiiiig under various distempers, the other for women who had ill health ; providing them with food and clothing at his own expence, appointing also officers and servants who should by all means take care that nothing should be wanting, and that the men and women should be kept from communication with each other. He built also, on the opposite side of the way, a church to the honour of St. Gregory, where he placed canons regular, who should administer spiritual com- fort and assistance to the infirm people above mentioned, and take the care of their funerals, for which he provided them with such an income as was thought sufficient. Part of this priory is now standing, but not a great deal, only one large room, uidessthe buildings of the street may be looked upon as the lodging of the poor and sick, who were provided for there; the ground belonging to its precinct is almost entirely laid out in gardens for our market.' Tanner thus records the foundation of this house : In the north-gate street (says he) over against the hospital of St. John, Archbishop Lanfranc also founded an house for secular Priests, A. D. 1084, to the honour of St. Gregory ; but Archbishop Wil- liam, temp. Plen. I. made it a priory of black canons. About the time of the dissolution here were thirteen religious, who were endowed with the yearly revenue of 121/. Ids. Id. Dug. 166/. 4s. 5d. Ob. Speed. The scite was granted 28 Henry VIII. to the lord archbishop of Canterbury, in exchange for Wimble- don, Sec. This view was drawn, 1758. SANDGATE CASTLE. This is one of the castles built by King Henry VIII. ; in con- struction it much resembles those of Deal, Sandown, Walmer, and Camber ! I »»e c 'i W ,f^. 1 ■ ^^H|*:" //if ' ''^ 1 M' ,1 1^ § KENT. 101 Camber, or Winchelsea, and indeed most of the castles erected in that reign; all which consist of a combination of round towers. These, from their form, are incapable of beinof com- pletely flanked or defended by an adjacent work. It stands a sn)all distance west oi Folkstone, on the beach or sand, whence probably it derives its name. It is overlooked by a high clitf, within gun-shot of it, as may be seen in the drawing. Here Queen Elizabeth lodged in the year 1588, in her pro- gress into Kent, in order to put the coast in a state of del'ence against an invasion, with which this kingdom was at that time threatened by the Spaniards. This view was drawn A. D. 3762. THE WHITE FRIARS, CANTERBURY. J HIS plate shews part of the remains of the first house of the Franciscan, or Minorite Friars, established in England. Nine in number of these brethren first arrived here from abroad, A. D. 1224, five of whom staid at Canterbury, by direction of King Henry III. and settled themselves on a piece of ground near the Poor Priest's Hospital ; but about the year 1270, John Diggs, an alderman of that city, translated them to an island then called Bynnewith, on the west part of the city, where they continued till the dissolution, alter which the friary was granted, 31 Henry VIII. to Thomas Spelman. At present scarcely any thing of the buildings, except the part here repre- sented, are remaining, the outer walls and foundations ex- cepted. Speed, and others, erroneously make Henry VII. the first founder of this friary, which was settled almost three hundred years before his time. He might (says Tanner) be a great bene- factor, though Somner has not observed it, and might change VOL. vni. D D the 102 KEN T. the first conventual Franciscans into that reformed branch of their order, called Observants, but could not be the first founder. Weaver, p. 234, tells us this house was valued at 39/. 12i. 8d, ob. per ann ; but there is no valuation of it in either Dugdale or Speed. This view was drawn anno 1758. LEICES. ">s N LEICESTERSHIRE. THE ABBEY OF ST. MARY DE PRAXIS. AT LEICES- TER. (Plate I.) Ihe following account of the foundation, and oilier particu- lars respecting this abbey, is given by Burton, in his History of Leicestershire : " He (Robert Bossue, earl of Leicester) founded also in 1143, 9th of Stephen, the most sumptuous and elegant monastery of St. Mary de Pratis, without the walls, for canons regular of the order of St. Austin, so called from its situation upon the edge of the meadows, and having the delicious and pleasant prospect of them and the water; into which house the said Lord Bossue became a canon regular professed, for the space of fifteen years, that so by repentance he might expiate his former treasons com- mitted against his king and sovereign. This abbey had in this shire twenty-six parish churches appropriated unto it, which, at the suppression thereof, was valued yearly to dispend 1062/. Os. Ad. ob. q. The abbey now is the inheritance of the Right Honourable William earl of Devonshire, Baron Cavendish of Hardwick, in the county of Derby. Of tliis house formerly was an abbot, tliat most learned Gilbert Eoliot, who was after- wards made bishop of Hereford, A. D. 1149, and, after thai, bishop of London, A. D. JlGl, memorable for two things; llic one, his allegiance and fidelity to his sovereign, being alwavs faithful and true to King Henry IL in all those ctmfusions between him and Thomas a Becket, archbishop of Canterbury. The other, for a resolute answer made to an unknown voice heard by him ; for, as Afatthew Paris reports it, coming ono ni£rh( 104 LEICESTERSHIRE. iiii'ht from the kin"-, after a long conferenre he had had with l)iin on these troubles with the said Archbit.ho|) Becket, as he l;iv meditating and musing thereon in his bed, a terrible and unknown voice sounded these words in his ears, " Dum revolvis tot A tot, Dem tints est Jstarotfi." i. e. Whilst thou revolvest so many and so many times, thy God is Astaroth,— Which he takino- to come from the devil, answered as boldly, " Mentiris, (IcEmon, Deus mens est Dens Sahaoth."—Dc\\], thou liest : my God is the God of Sabaoth. To this account it is necessary to add, from Tanner, that the monastery was founded in honour of the assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and endowed, according to Dugdale, with 9511. I4s. 5d. ob. q. — S|)ecd makes it 1062/. Os. 4d. ob. q. — and the scite was granted 4 Ed. IV. to William, marquis of Northampton. It is said that the greatest part of the lands and tithes belonging to the collegiate church of prebends intra crastrum, in the toww of Leicester, was, by Robert de Bossue, alienated and annexed to this his new foundation. Very little of the ancient abbey is remaining, except the gate and some of the outer walls; there are, indeed, ruins of a man- sion, comparatively a modern building, erected out of the mate- rials of the monastery, according to a manuscript account of the storming of Leicester, May SO, l6i5, written by Richard Sy- monds, an officer in the royal army, and preserved in the Bri- this Museum. This house was then the residence of the Countess of Devon, and was the quarters occupied by the king during the libove-mentioned attack, and for some days afterwards. It was nevertheless burned by his troops, perhaps to prevent its being useful to the enemy. This particular we learn from a list of the marches made by King Charles I. from Jan. 10, 1C>41, to the time of his death. It is entitled. Iter Carolirmm, published in Gutch's Collect. Curiosa. This view, which shews some of ,the outer walls and towers of the abbey, at the back of the mansion, was drawn A. D. 1784'. THE .1 LEICESTERSHIRE. 105 THE ABBEY OF ST. MARY DE PRATIS, LEICESTER. PLATE II. X HIS plate shews the ruins of the mansion of the Dutchess of Devonshire, supposed to have been built out of the materials of the abbey soon after the dissolution ; and which, as has been before observed, was burned by the royalists. In this monastery died that eminent statesman and magnificent prelate. Cardinal Wolsey, A. D. 15'3l, in his way to London, after his disgrace. His last words are said to have been, " Had I served the God of heaven, as faithfully as I did my master on earth, he had not forsaken me in my old age, as the other hath done." Names of the Abbots, out of the Registers of Lincoln, and the Col- lections of the Rev. Mr. Satnuel Carte of Leicester. 1. Richard, who was the first abbot, became admitted to this ilignity, anno 1144 ; anno 8th of King Stephen. He presided twenty-f(Hir years, and was succeeded by 2. William de Katewyke, elected abbot anno ll67, 14th Henry II. He governed ten years, and was succeeded by S. William de Broke, elected abbot anno 1177, 23 Hen. II. He sat here nine years, and was, anno 1 186, made abbot of the Cistertians, and succeeded in this abbacy by 4. Paul, elected abbot the same year, viz. anno 1186, anno 8 Richard I. He governed nineteen years, and was succeeded by 5. William Pepyn, anno 1205, loth of King John. He con- tinued abbot nineteen years, and had for his successor, 6. Osbert, elected anno 1224, 8 Hen. 111. He piesided five yeas, rand was succeeded by VOL. VIII. E E 7. Mathias, 106 LEICESTERSHIRE. 7. Mathias, anno 1229, 13 Henry III. lie governed six years, and resigning anno 1235, was succeeded by 8. Alan de Ccstreham, on the oth of the calends of Novem- ber, 1235, 19 Henry III. lie sat nine years, and was succeed- ed by 9. Robert Furmetyn, admitted abbot the 4th of the nones of November, 1244, 28 Henry 111. He presided three years, and was succeeded by 10. Henry Rothcly, on the cal.of Aug. 1247, 31 Hen. III. He p resided twentythree years, and then resigned, anno 126"9, to 11. \Yilliam Shepesheved, who was admitted abbot the 2d of the nones of October, 1270, 54 Henry IH. He governed twenty- one years, and then dying, was succeeded by 12. William Malverpe, elected on the 5th of the id. of Sep- tember, 1291, 19 Edward I. He sat twenty-six years; and on his death, which happened anno 1317, was succeeded by 13. Richard Towers, elected abbot the 15th of tlic cal. of June 1317, 11 Edward II. He was abbot twenty-eight years, viz. till the time of his death, and was succeeded by 14. "William de Cloune, the 12th of the kal. of November, 1345, 19 Edward IH. He procured himself and successors to be exempted from being summoned to parliament, as may be seen by the patent exhibited in Seidell's Titles of Honour, p. 604. He presided thirty-two years, and then dying, was suc- ceeded, anno 1277, by 15. William Kerby, on the 3d of the nones of February, anno 1 Richard II. He presided sixteen years, and died anno 1393 ; whereupon 16. Philip Repyngdon was admitted abbot the 28th of June, 1394, 17th of Richard II. He governed eleven years, and then being preferred to the see of Lincoln, was succeeded in this abbacy by 17. Richard Rothele, the 5th of the cal. of May, 1405, 6 Henry IV. He sat sixteen years, and was succeeded by 18. William LEICESTERSHIRE. 107 18. William Sadington, the 13th of the cal. of November, 1420, 8 Henry V. He continued here twenty-tv/o years, and dyin^T anno 1442, was succeeded by 19. John Pomery, the l6'th of the cal. of June, 1442, 21 Henry VI. He presided thirty-two years, and was succeeded by 20. John Shepesheved, elected abbot the 11th of the ca'. of September, 1474, 14 Edward IV. He presided eleven years, and was succeeded by 21. Gilbert Manchester, elected the 2d of the cal. of Octo- ber, 1485, 1 Henry VII. He continued eleven years, and was succeeded by 22. John Penny, admitted abbot the 7th of the cal. of July, 149G, 11 Henry VII. He sat thirteen years, and being, anno 1504, made bishop of Bangor, obtained leave to hold this abbey in commendam ; which he did till the year 1509, when he was translated from Bangor to Carlisle. However, he seems to have ended his days in this abbey, by his burial in St. Margaret's church, in the town of Leicester; to the building of which, I presume, he was a good benefactor, where his effigies yet remain, at the u[)per end of the north ailc, being handsomely carved in alabaster, in his episcopal habit. On his resignation, 23. Richard Pexal was admitted March 31, 1509, 1 Henry VIII, He occurs abbot in a deed dated July 10, 1520, 12 Henry VH. and as such, subscribed by proxy, at the convoca- tion holden April 5, 1533 ; at the latter end of which year, or the beginning of the next, he was succeeded by 24. John Bowchier, or Bouchier, the last abbot. On August 11, 1534, he subscribed to the king's supremacy; however, he afterwards withstood the dissolution with such resolution that the visitors threatened him and his canons with adultery and b — y, unless they would submit and surrender their monas- tery, as wc are informed in Collier's Eccl. Hist. vol. II. and Dr. Tanner's Preface to his Notitia Monaslica. Anno £■ 5. d. 200 10 6 6 6 5 1 8 5 6 8 5 6 8 5 5 5 108 LEICESTERSHIRE. Anno 1553, bore remained in charge Si 6s. 8d. in fees, and 38/. 19s. ^d. in annuities, and tlie following pensions, viz. John Bowchier. last abbot Richard Duckett John liuckeshame John Webbe - - - John Lacye - - - Hugh Sheppey John Revt'll . - - George King - William Parmoter James Lawe . - - And to Thomas Westus That this conventual church was demolished very soon after the surrender, may be easily surmised from the following letter, written by one of the commissioners to Cromwell: " My most bounden dutye remembyid, this is to advertis youre good lordshippe of the hole estate of the late monastery of Leicester, in the wiche we have taken the surrender and feyne of th' abbot and convent, and the writings thereof be in my custod3fe. By your lordshippes goodncs towardes mc, I now a me in possession of the house and all the demesnes wiche was nnlett at the tyme of our repare thetlier. Wc also founde the house was indettyd to the kynges lieyghncs, wherof we make no reconinge of; and for the discharge thereof we have made a sale of thestocke and store wiihe the household stuffc and ornaments of thechurche, wiche amounte unto 2*28/. The plate is onsolde, wiche maister Froman taketh the chairge of, and is valuyd at, by weyght, 190 pounds. The lead, by estymacion, is valuyd at 1000/. The bells at 88/. — For the dischargeynge of th' abbot, convent, and servants of the saide monastery, there haithe beyne payde, LEICESTERSHIRE. K9 payde, as dothc apcrc more particularly by the bouks we send your lordsliippe, 149/. And for as nioche as th' abbot hath not receyved of us in rcdy money but 20/., lie haitlic requyride nic to dcsyer your lordsliippe to be so good lorde unto hym, as he may have 20 pounds or 20 marks. The churche and house rc- mcjnethe as yet undefacedc, and in the churche be maney thynges to be maidc sale of. For wiche that may plese yourc lordsliippe to let me knoweyoure pleysure, as well for the further sale to be made, as for the defasinge of the churche and other suporHuus byldingcs wiche be abowt the monastery ; a hundred marks yerly will not susteyne the charges in repayringe this house; that all byldinges be lett stande as your lordsliippe shall knowe more hereafter. Thus I pray Jhesus long to preserve you in he! the withe muche honore. Wri'ten at the late raonasterye of Leycester, the 29th day of Au^uste, by your lordshipes most bownden servante, ERANCIS CAVE." VOL. VIII F F LONDON [ no \ LONDON AND MIDDLESEX. CHAPEL OF ST. JOIIX THE BAPTIST, IN THE SAVOV. PLATE I. Tins was the chapel to a mansion originally built in the year 1245 by Peter of Savoy and Richmond, uncle to Eleanor, wife of King Henry III. This queen afterwards purchased it for her son, Edmond, earl of Lancaster, from the fraternity of ^lountjoy, unto whom Peter of Savoy had given it. Henry duke of Lancaster repaired, or rather rebuilt, the house, which INIaitland says had been pulled down; according to Stowe he laid out on it 52,000 marks. This money he had gathered toge- ther at the town of Bridgerike. In the year 1381, the rebels of Kent and Essex, headed by Wat Tyler, out of hatred to John of Gaunt duke of Lancaster, burned this house to the ground, not suffering any part of the plate, jewels, or rich furniture, to be saved : the plate they cut in small pieces, and threw into the Thames ; the precious stones they broke to powder in a mortar. A proclamation having been previously made by order of their leaders, threatening death to any one who should attempt to convert any article to his own use; one of the rebels was thrown into the fire by his companions, for endeavouring to secrete a valuable piece of plate : — among other articles, the rebels found some barrels of gunpowder, which they mistook for gold or silver; these they threw into the fire, whereby the hall was blown up, the adjacent buildings destroyed, and themselves all exposed to great danger; doubt- less I LONDON AND MIDDLESEX. ill less, many of them were killed or wounded. Besides this lime, the Savoy has more than once experienced the fury of the flames. I'his n)ansion, thus defaced and in ruins, afterwards came in- to the king's hands, and was rebuilt from the ground for an hos- pital of St. John the .J3aptist, by King Henry Xll. about the year loOy. Wcever says the following inscription was over the great gate : Ilospitium hoc iiiopi turha Savoia vocatum, Septimus Ilenricm fundavit ab imo Solo. This hospital consisted of a master and four brethren, who were to be in priest's orders, and to officiate in their turns ; they were also alternately to stand at the gate of the Savoy ; and if they saw any object of charity, they were obliged to take him in, and feed him ; if he proved to be a traveller, he was entertained for one night, and a letter of recommendation, with as much money given him, as would defray his expences to the next hos- pital. Stowe says, that King Henry purchased for this hos|)ital lands sufficient to enable them to relieve an hundred poor peo- ple ; I suppose he means daily : it being estimated that they might expend 529^. 15s. yearly. On the lOlh of June, in the 7th year of King Edward VL this hospital was suppressed, and the beds, bedding, and other furniture, with lands of the yearly value of 700 marks, given by the king for the i'urnishing his house at Jjridewell, which he had given to the citizens of London, to be a workhouse for the poor and idle persons, and the hospital of St. Thomas in Soutlnvark lately suppressed. The hospital of the Savoy was again new founded, corporated, and endowed with lands, by Queen Mary, the 3d of Novem- ber, in the fourth year of her reign, when one Jackson was appointed master. The ladies of the court, and maids of honour, in compliment to the cjuecn, furnished it with new beds, bed- ding, and other furniture, in a very ample manner. It consist- ed of a master and four brethren, as before; a receiver of the rout J IVJ LONDON A.VD MIDDLESEX. rents, who was also the porter, and locked the gates every night, and chose a watchman. Mailland says, on ihc accession of Queen Elizabeth it was again suppressed. The original rents amounted to 22,000/. per oimnm ; which bcins; deemed too large an endowment, an act of resumption was obtained in the 4lh and oth of Fliilip and Mary, so that the lands reverted to the crown. But those who had taken leases from the master of the Savoy, had their lands confirmed to them for ever, upon the payment of twenty years' purchase; a reserve being made of 800 or 1000/. per annum, in perpetuity, for the master and four brethren : and over a house inhabited, A. D. 1732, by Mr. Collins, the king's distiller, which was part of the great gate of the Savoy, was placed the effigies of St. John the Baptist, curiously carved at full length in stone. This view was drawn A. D. 1786. CHAPEL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST, IN THE SAVOY. PLATE II. 1 HE chapel in the Savoy (which is very erroneously called St. Mary le Savoy) is properly the chapel of St. John the Baptist. It is all stone-work, and carries the aspect of antiquity. It was repaired with great cost in the year IdOO, and the gallery at the south end, built in the year 1618, It was again repaired, anno 1731, at the sole charge of his late Majesty King George I. who also inclosed the burial-ground with a strong brick wall, and added a door to it, half of which consists of iron-work. The inhabitants of St. Mary-le-Strand, after their church was pulled down to enlarge the garden belonging to Somerset-house, congregated here for many years ; but when Dr. Killigrew was made master, he would not permit them to frequent the church, till they had signed an instrument, whereby they renounced their having LONDON AND MIDDLESEX. us having any right or property in or to the said chaprl. or any part of the Savoy; and then he allowed them to make collections at the chapel door, nine months in the year, for tlic support of their own poor. The Doctor soon broke the old constitution, and not only appointed two overseers (one chosen by himself, and the other by the inhabitants of the precinct), but he also set up a vestry, (without authority) to consist of the master and fouituen inhabitants. By virtue of his patent, he had liberty to grant leases, for three lives, for ninety-one years; which he did by taking fines, and reserving only a small quit-rent, to the dimi- nution of the annual income of the hospital. Soon after the Doctor's decease, viz. in the first year of the late Queen Anne, commissioners were appointed to visit the hospital, who were seven lords spiritual, and as many lords temporal. 'J'he commission was opened by Sir Nathan Wright, then lord-keeper of the great seal ; and three of the brethren, or chaplains, were discharged, because they had other benefices ; and also the fourtli, for being a teacher of a separate congregation. The last men- tioned chaplain was put into it by Dr. Killigrew, though he knew that he was a dissenting preacher. Some time after this, Dr. Prat, who was chaphiin to the hospital, endeavoured to obtain an act of parliament to have it dissolved, and to be made parochial. The bill passed the house of com- mons, but meeting with great opposition from the chancellors of the two universities, from the bishops, and other lords, it was thrown out of their house. The chapel stands north and south, and is situated by the churchyard of the Savoy, which lies between the south side of the Strand and the Thames : it consists only of a nave, without any side-aile. The ceiling, which is covering, is ornamented with a kind of a regular pattern, formed of four-leaved roses, many of which have in their centers the crown of thorns, some have armorial bearings, and others, animals supporting banners: among them, the bull, the stag, the wolf, the greyhound, and griffin, seemingly the supporters borne by several of our kings ; VOL. VIII. G G these 114 LONDON AND MIDDLESEX. tlicse were all originally painted in their proper colours, but have since been defaced by white-washing. Here are several mural monuments, one seemingly of the age of Edward IV. or flcnry VII; divers others of the time of Queen Elizabeth and James I. Several stones on the floor have the marks of brasses, and one or two inscriptions are still remain- ing. Plate I. shews part of the east side of the chapel, with an arch of a window of the refectory or great hall of the ancient hospital. The remains of twelve large arched windows on the south side, are still visible ; as also part of a fire-place. This building was lately used as a barrack, and burned down by ac- cident. The west end, bounded by an arch, is seen in profile beyond the church. Plate II. shews the front of this window, with two of its northern sides. This view was drawn A. D. 1787. KING HENRY VIII.'s HOUSE, OLD FORD. This building, vulgarly known by the appellation of King John's House, stands in Old Ford, in the parish of Stratford le Bowe. It was the gate ot a royal mansion belonging to King Henry ATII, is of brick, and by its style seems at least as old as the reign of King Henry VII. Several foundations of the interior buildings are still visible, particularly those of the chapel, which was standing within the memory of some ancient persons now (1787) residing near the spot; who report, that it was adorned with fine paintings and curious painted glass, and was called the Romish Chapel : the extremity of these premises is bounded by a ditch, which has served as a shore to them and the adjacent build- ings time immemorial : this was lately enlarged, in order to admit the coal barges from the river Lea, and to make a wharf; in do- ing which, a stone wall was discovered twenty-seven paces in length, having over it a layer of brick ; this seems to have been the i, §, LONDON AND MIDDLESEX. 115 the boundary and breadth of the whole premises : their length is but little more; so that the area of the whole was extremely small for a royal mansion : many ancient glazed tiles have been digged up here, ornamented with scroll-work, painted with yel- low, four of them completing one pattern ; these, it is likely-, were part of the pavement of the chapel, many such tiles being applied to that use in different old buildings, such as the ca« thedrals at Winchester and Gloucester; Christ-Church, Hants; Romsey, &c. &c. Several ancient coins have been also found here. This estate is held on a lease from Christ's Hospital, London ; originally granted to the late Mr. Edmond Smith, scarlet dyer, for 61 years ; many of which are at present unexpired. Probably this mansion was granted to the hospital by its founder King Ed- ward VL The ruinous state of this building makes it unlikely that it will stand through the ensuing winter. — This view, which shews the inside of the gate, was drawn A. D. 1786. MONMOl TH- [ 116 ] MONMOUTHSHIRE, USK CASTLE. 1 HAVE not been able to gain the least information respecting the time when this castle was built, or who was the builder; which is the more extraordinar}', as, from the extent of its ruins, it seems to have been a building of some consequence : it is pleasantly situated on the river Usk, near its concourse with the Berthin. The present owner is the Lord Mountstuart. This view, which shews a square tower, part of the defence of the castle, was drawn A. D, 1785. NOR- I I I i :^^- [ 117 ] NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. IIOLDENBY HOUSE. rloLDENBT House stands on a pleasant eminence, about six miles south-west of Northamjjton ; it was built by Sir Chris- topher Hatton, privy-counsellor to Queen Elizabeth, h)rcl high- chancellor of England, and knioht of the garter: he is said to have called it Holdcnby House, in honour of his great grand- mother, iieiress of the ancient family of the Holdenbys. 'J'he gate here represented, was built in the 3'ear 1533, as is evident from the date carved over the arch ; it is most likely that the rest of the buildings were erected about the same time; the style is neither that called Gotliic nor Grecian, but a mixture of both; a manner of building much in fashion about the latter end of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and that of her successor, King James. Sir Christopher Hatton dying unmarried, left this house to Sir William Newport, Knt. his sister's son, who, in default of male- issue, gave it to Sir Christopher Hatton, his godson, and nearest kinsman ; afterwards it became a palace to King Charles I. and when he was delivered to the parliament, he was kept here three months, and hence was seized and carried to the army by Cornet Joyce. It afterwards belonged to the victorious Duke of Marl- borough, and was part of the jointure of the Marchioness of Blandford, relict of his grandson. At present it is let to a farmer, who resides here, and has pulled down great part of the build- ings, and conA'erted the rest into barns and stables. The en- trance into the yard on the north side, was through a gate, si- milar to that here delineated; it was standing in I76I, when this view was taken : the house stood a small distance to the M'est; its roof and ornamented chimneys are seen in the drawing over the wall. VOL. VIII. H H OXFORD- [ 118 ] OXFORDSHIRE. 11 LEV, EYTLEY, or YFl'ELE CHURCH. 1h:s cliuich stands in the Hundred oi' BiiHington, about two miles south oi" (Oxford, on tlic banks of the Isis, near its junction with the Cherwell. This edifice is undoubtedly of great antiquity; its massive construction, its circular arches, and the style of man}' of its original pails, exhibit a very good specimen of the style com- monly called Saxon. 'J'he arch of its west door, which is richly ornamented, has, among other decorations, two, somewhat re- sembling the heads of kings, joined to the beaks of birds : this door has been engraved in one of Dr. Ducarrel's publications ; 1 think his Anglo Norman Antiquities; but the drawing is by no means accurate. The south door, which is blocked up by a porch, is extremely beautiful ; among the ornaments is the head of a Saxon king: within the church, there are several very fine circular arches, particularly a cross one in the chancel, which building seems to have been enlarged by modern additions ; there was a circular window over the west door; this, to judge from what remains, must have been very rich. The font is rather an uncommon one : the upper part consists of a large block of black marble, polished only in some places ; its surl'ace is a square, each side measuring three feet seven inches, containing a bason of a yard in diameter, lined with lead ; it is supported by four short and thick pillars, three of them fluted in a waving line, the other plain: this circumstance, as well as those of the colour and measure of the stone, are all nearly to be found in the ancient font, at the cathedral at Win- chester. The only remarkable monument in this church, is that of Arthur Pitts, who deceased the 15th of May, 1579, from which the \itc tAut tiu^Jtdc of euch'-Jiiitafe u CJfo rmlt^j RUTLANDSHIRE Is an inland county, the fmalleft in Great- Britain, belonging, before the arrival of the Romans, to the principality of the Coritani, and after their eflabliHiment it was included in their province of Flavia Csefarienfis. During the Saxon Heptarchy it belonged to the kingdom of Mercia, which began in 582, and ended in 827, having had 18 kings. Wiien Alfred divided England into counties, this county was in- cluded in Northamptonfhire: it is now in the Midland Circuit, in the diocefe of Peterborough, and province of Canterbury. It is bounded on the north by Lincolnfliire and Leicefterfhire ; eafl, by Lincolnfhire; weft, by Leicellcrfliire ; and fouth, by Northamptondiire. It is 15 miles long and 10 broad, and about 45 in circumference; containing 1 10,000 fquare acres, or 136 fquare miles, having 19,560 inhabitants, and 3263 houfes. It is divided into 5 hundreds, 48 pariflies, with 10 vicarages, and has in villages and 2 market-towns, viz. Okeham the county town, and Uppingliam. It fends 2 Members to Parliament, pays i part of the Land-tax, and provides 120 men to the National Militia. It principal rivers are the Guafh and Welland, with feveral fmall rivulets. The moft noted places are the Quarries, Old Foreft of Liefield, Vale of Catmos, Witchley Heath, Five-mile Crofs, and feveral fine parks, more than any county in England in proportion to its VOL. viii, . bigncfs. RUTLANDSHIRE. bignefs. It produces limeftone, corn, cattle, (heep, wool, and wood ; and though the fmallcft county, is the moft fruitful of any in England. The air is remarkably good, and the foil rich, efpecially the fertile vale of Catmos. This county was a part of Noilhamptonfliire, and continued fo till about the time of the Conqueft. The only Roman (Nation in this county is faid by fome to have been at Market- Overton, a village three miles from Okeham, and fuppofed to have been the Mar- gidunum of Antoninus, where a great number of Roman coins have at different times been dug up. Others contend that Brig Carterton is another flation, and fuppofe it to have been the Caufennae of the Romans. Dr. Stukejy fays. Brig Caflerton happened mort: conveniently for a flation, being lo miles from Durobrivis, but the Itinerary mentions not its name. However that be, it was fenced about with a deep moat on two fides, the river fupplying the other two. And here is a pafture called Caftle Clofe, at the corner of which the foundation of a wall has been dug up. The only Roman military road that paffes through this county is that from Chef- terton in Huntingdonfhire, through Northamptonlhire to Stamford, and enters this county the midway between that town and Brig Cafterton, from whence it goes north- ward by Five-mile Crofs, leaving Market-Overton on the left, to Grantham in Lincolnfhirc, The only ANTIQUITIES in this COUNTY worthy notice are, Okeham Caflle, and Tickencote Church to the left of Brig Callerton. il I ^ ^ ■S OXFORDSHIRE. 119 the brass plates have been long taken. This Arthur Pitts, and others of his name, dwelt in the impropriation house adjoin- iuij to the church, and were tenants to the archdeacon of Oxford. 'J'his church, with its appurtenances, was, according to one of Anthony Wood's manuscripts. No. 8474, kept under the Museum at Oxford, given by JefFry de Clinton to the canons of Kenilworth in Warwickshire, also a yard-land in Couley ; and in No. 8505, it is said this Jeffry de Clinton came in with William the Conqueror, Dugdale, among the charters of this priory, has one of Henry de Clinton, confirming the gifts of his ancestors, wherein he says, " I also grant and confirm to them, the church of Yftcle, anrl one virgate of land in Covele, with all its appurtenances and liberties ;" the gift of Juliana de Sancto Remigio. This directly contradicts Wood, who says it was given by JefFry. The vica- rage at present is annexed to the archdeaconry of Oxford, and valued in the king's books at 8/. per annum. The yew-tree, shewn in this view, which exhibits the north- east aspect, seems scarcely younger than the church. The shaft of the cross near it, is of no very modern workmanship. The manor of Yfele belongs to an hospital at Donnington, near New- bury, Berks. This view was drawn anno 1774, and was the only one that could be conveniently taken, the west and south sides being in- cumbered with buildings of different kinds, or surrounded by private property. RUTLANDSHIRE. TICKENCOTE CHURCH. This church exhibits evident marks of great anticjuity. Mr. Gough, in his British Topography, says that Dr. Stukeley sup- posed it to be the oldest cliurch now remaining in England, and that it was built by Peada, son of Penda, king of Mercia, about the year 740'. It is a rectory, valued in the king's bocks at six pounds 120 IIUTLANDSMIRE. |)ouiuls five sliilliniis and eiglit pence. Tlie advowson was an- cientlv in the abbot and convent of Osveston, in Leicestershire, wlio, in the 28th Edw. I, presented to it ; and Sir Britius Daneys, then hjrd of the manor, pretending a right to it, presented WilMam his son. lie however afterwards revoked his presentation. The Ibllowing account of this place is given by Wright, in his History and Antiquities of Rutlandshire : " TiKKNCOTK lies in the east hundred; at the Conqueror's aui vey,Grinibaldus held of the Countess Judith, threehides, bating one bovate, in Tichecote; the arable land was six carucates ; in demesne one ; eight sockmen, twelve villans, and one cottager ; all possessing five carucates. Here was also one mill of 245. and twelve acres of meadow, formerly valued at 30^. and then at 50s. " In the reign of Edward II. Britius Daneys was lord of this manour ; which Britius Daneys was one of those eminent persons in this country, who in the 29th Edward I. received the king's ■writ of summons to attend him at Berwick upon Tweed, well fit- ted with horse and arms, from thence to march against the Scots. " In the 18th of Edward III. Roger Daneys did release to Row- land Daneys his brother, and to his heirs, all his right in the Diannour of Tikencote, and in all such lands and tenements which did at any time belong to Britius Daneys in Empingham. " In the 10th Henry IV. it was found that John Daneys, son and heir of John Daneys, held of the king the mannour of Ti- kencote, the county of Hotel, by the service of one knight's fee, and two carucates of land, with the appurtenances, in Horum('i.e. Horn) in the said county, by the sixth part of a knight's fee. '• In the 5th Edward VI. John Campynetand his wife obtain- ed licence to alienate the mannour of Tikencote, in the county of Rutland, to John Bevercots and John Foxton, and their heirs, to the use of the said John Campynet, &c. which mannour was held of the king incopi^e by knight's service. Butof later time a younger branch of the Wingfields of Upton in Com. Northampton, became 'lords of this mannour." This view was drawn A. D. 1785. SHROPSHIRE. Il ''m i':,;)* "1 T w [ 121 ] SHROPSHIRE. STOKE CASTLE. Xhis was rather a castellated mansion than a castle of strength : it stands on the road-side, between Bishop's Castle and Ludlow; very little is mentioned respecting it by the topographical writers. Leland only says, that it was built like a castle, that it some- time belonged to the Ludlows, and, at the time when he wrote, was the property of the Vcrnons. The present owner is the Lord Craven, whose tenant lives in an adjoining farm-house. Buck, who has engraved this castle, gives the following ac- count of it; from what authority I know not: — "This castle stands on the river Team ; it anciently belonged to the family of Verdun ; issue-male failing in Theobald de Verdun, it went by his daughter Elizabeth and her daughter Isabel, by marriage, to Henry Lord Ferrars of Groby, who died in 17th Edward IIL It continued in this noble family for many successions, in that branch of it called Ferrres of Tamworlh ; but it is now in the noble family of Cravon, William Lord Cravou, of Ilamsted Marshal, being the present lord thereof," i. e. A. D. 1731, wdien that view was [)ublished. The entrance into this castle lies through a wooden gateway, covered with lath and plaister, on several parts of which, more particularly on the inside, are carved a number of very grotcs(|iie figures. All the other parts of the building arc of stone, except some other aj)artmcnts on the north side, which appear more modern than the hall or tower. VOL. viu. I I The 122 SHROPSHIRE. The hall is spacious, and is lighted by four large church-like N\ iiidows, with pointed arches, and has a door on the east side, of the same construction. The hall is covered with stones cut like tiles, and seeiniugly in good repair. The tower consists of a single chamber on each story, and on the north face has a re-en- f tcring angle, dividing it so as to have the appearance of a doU' ble tower. This view was drawn anno 178o. SOMERSET- C 123 ] SOMERSETSHIRE. COMBE SYDENHAM. This is part of the remains of the manerial house of Combe Svdenhaiu, in the hundred and parish of North Petherton, in the county' of Somersetshire. It was purchased A. D. 1388, 12 of Richard II. by Richard de Sidenham, a judge of the Common Pleas, and from him ob- t cimed the adjiuict of Sidenham to its former name. 'I'liis Ri- cliard was sou of Roger dc Sidenliam, and had issue, Henry Si- denham, his son and heir, 19 Rich. II. John Sidenham, great-grandson of Henry, married Joan, daughter and co-ht ir of John Sturton of Preston, in the county of Somerset, with whom lie had the manor of Brimpton in that county, which the family seem afterwards to have made their principal seat: she died 12 Edw. IV. He, the 8th of the said reign, was seised of the manors of Sydenham, and Comb Siden- ham, leaving Walter his son and heir, who died the year follow- ing. From this Walter was Imeally descended Sir John Syden- ham, Knight, who was living and possessed of Brimpton and Comb Sydenham, in 16J3 ; whose son, Sir John, was created a baronet, and was ancestor to Sir Philip Sydenham, the last ba- ronet of the family, who represented the county of Somerset in several parliaments. The Baionetage, published 1727, gives Comb Sidenham as one of his seats. He died unmarried, 10th Sept. 1739, and the title became extinct. The estates probably devolved to the female line. This view, which shews a gate of the old mansion, was drawn A. D. 1705. SUFFOLK. [ 124 ] SUFFOLK. CLy\RE CASTLE. j J HIS castle was most proliably erected during the Heptarchy ; it being situated on the frontier ot" the Ivingdom of the East Angles, and close by the borders of the kingdom of Essex ; yet no men- tion can be found of it in history, until near two centuries after the union of the heptarchy into one kingdom, by Egbert : at which time, and during the reigns of Canute, Hardicanute and Edward, Aluric, an earl, the son of Withgar, was in possession of it, and in the begimiing of the tenth century, founded the church of St. John the Baptist in the castle, and placed therein seven prebends. Soon after the Norman conquest, this castle, and other lordships and manors in the neighbourhood, were in the possession of Gilbert of Clare, grandson of Gilbert earl of 13reant,in Normandy, who, by a deed bearing date 1090, tested at thecastle called Clare, gave this church and prebends to thechurch of St. Mary of Bee in Normandy. It appears that some of this fa- mily were in possession of the castle, and resided here, from the date of this deed, until 1307- When Edward II. and most of the nobility of England were present at the funeral of Joan of Acres, daughter of Edward I. afterwards Philippa, daughter of Lionel duke of Clarence, who had married the grand-daugh- ter of Gilbert of Clare, and Joan d'Acres, brought this castle, with other possessions, to Sir Edmond Mortimer, earl of March; whose son, on coming of age, in the year 1405, found it in good repair, and amply stocked with rich furniture. On his death, without issue, in the 3d of Henry VI. the castle, town, and barony of Clare, with other large possessions, devolved to Richard, % SUFFOLK. 125 Richard, duke of York, father of Edward IV. by whose acces- sion to the crown, these possessions became vested and remained in the crown, through the reigns of Edward IV. and V. and Richard III. and hy act of parhamcnt, 11th Henry VII. were confirmed to the king, and so remained till the 6th of Edward VI. when they were granted, together with the honour of Clare, and many other possessions in Essex and Sutiolk, to Sir John Cheeke, but were re-assumed to the crown by Queen Mary, in the first year of her reign. The castle and honour of Clare afterwards came into the possession of Sir Jervase Elwes, of Stoke College, Bart, in the reign of Charles II. and it is now the property of John Elwes, Esq. The castle was reduced into its present form by the family of Gilbert de Clare, and evidently, from its ruins, appears to be a Norman fortification. It remained till the beginning of the 15th century in good repair, but suffered considerably in the civij wars, between the two contending families of York and Lancas- ter. It is now entirely in ruins ; and except the part of the keep and the wall, which is seen in the plate, scarce any vestiges of walls remain : the scite of the whole fortification contains about 20 acres, once surrounded by water, and divided into an outer and inner bayley, the latter only ever surrounded by a wall. The hill on which the keep stands, is about 100 feet high ; there was a keeper and constable of the castle, whose fee was 6/. 13s. 4d. The family of the Barnardistons were lessees of the castle through some part of the sixteenth, and until near the middle of the last century: the present occupier of the scite is William Shaw, Esq. of Clare. This plate represents nearly the western view of the keep, and was drawn 1786". VOL. VIII. K i;: TUE ]'}G S r K F L K. 'I'lii: TOWN-iiALL or IPSWICH. J\>r llic lollou ■m^ Account of tliis Ijiiildino- 1 am indebted to William Clarke, of Ipswicli, Escj. x\ r what time ilic Ilall was built, is uncertain ; but certain that j it is a very, if not the most ancient building: i" ^'^'s town : be- lore it was usc\l SUSSEX. 133 A BUILDING BELONGING TO THE ABBEY OF ROBERT'S BRIDGE. Inis building is supposed to have been part of the offices of the monastery of Robert's Bridge; which, according to Tanner, was built A. D. 1 176, by Alfred do S. Martina. It was an abbey of Cistertian monks, dedicated to the honour of the Blessed Virtrin Mar}', and was endowed at the suppression (about which time there were twelve monks) with 248/. 10s. 6d. per annum, Dug- dale, or dare, 272/. 9s. 8d. in toio, and was granted 33 Hen. VIII. to Sir William Sidney. This monastery is situated towards the eastern extremity of the county, in the rape of Hastings and deanery of Pevensey : some call it Rotherbridge, from a bridge laid there over the river Rother. This is, in all likelihood, its true name; nevertheless, it is generally called and written Robert's Bridge, or de Ponte Roberti. This view was drawn A. D. 1785. RUIN NEAR CROWHURST CHURCH. This ruin was probably a chapel or oratory, built by one of the ancient lords of this manor. There is no tradition by whom it was erected, at what time, or for v/hat designed. Crawhurst, or Crowhurst, was one of the many lordships pos- sessed by Harold earl of Kent, in the reign of King Edward the Confessor, as appears by Domesday-book. After the Con- quest it was seized by William, who gave it with divers other estates to Alan Fergant, earl of Brittany and Richmond, as a re- ward for his courage and conduct at the battle of Hastings. It remained in this family some time, and regularly descended to John earl of Brittany and Richmond, the last male of that fa- mily ; who granted to Sir John Devereux, captain of Calais, 100 VOL. VIII. itf M marks 134 SUSS £ X. marks />er (untuvi lor life, lo be received out of the rents of this and some other manors in this rape: he dying without issue, his estates devolved to his sister Joan, then widow of Ralph lord Basset of Drayton, who obtained the livery of the castle, county, and honour of Richmond. This manor at present belongs to one of the Pelham family, who has a seat on it. — This view was drawn A. D. 17B5. SCOTNEY CASTLE. ScoTNEY Castlk is situatcd in the parish of Lamberhest, close to the western side of the stream called the Bezvle, which as IS reputed here, divides the counties of Kent and Sussex. It was an ancient castellated mansion of the manor of Scotney, which name it derived from that of its proprietor, who had another seat near Lid in Kent, called also Scotney. One of this fan)ily, Wal- ter de Scotney, held it in the reign of King Henry III; and al- though he was tried and hanged at Winchester, A. D. 1259, for giving poison to Richard earl of Gloucester; and William de Clave his brother, at the instigation of William de Valence, the estate does nota|i|iear to have escheated to the crown, but remain- ed in that family till the middleof the reign of King Edward IIL when it passed into the possession of the family of Ashburnham, one of whom was conservator of the |)cacc in the first year of KingRichard II, and resided at this place, which Mr. Hasted says, " was then castellated." In the Inginning of the reign of King Henry V. his successor alienated it to Henry Chicheley, archbishop ofCanterbury, one of whose mandates beingdated from Scotenye, April 3, 1418, shews he occasionally resided at this place. With Elorence, his niece, it came to the family of Darrells, who also lived here; one of whom, John Darrell, Escp in 1774-, conveyed this manor and seat, with the manor of Chingley, and other lands adjoining, in the parish of Goud hurst, in Kent, to Mr. John •"''fmiwwwf''fm-"' '■ *'n iS/ mm K*'ai/.- o/' ^i'rA /?f-r. i S U S S E X. 135 John Richards, of Robert's Bridge, who in 1779 again passed away these manors, the mansion of Scotney, and tlic flirm adjoin- ing, called Little Scotney, to Edward Uussey, Esq. the present proprietor of them. The house is said to have been built by Inigo Jones. The river, which at this place divides the counties of Kent and Sussex, (says Mr. Hasted) once ran inthecenterof the ground- plat on which the house stands, which is still reputed to be one half in Sussex, and the other in Kent. ]t is a handsome stone building, and appears to be only one half of what was first in- tended to be built. It was moated round, and had a strong stcjne gateway with towers, which seemed to be intended to ^uard the approach to it. The late Mr. Darrell pulled them (partly) down. Tliis plate, which presents the west view, was drawn in 1783. VERDLEY, VULGARLY CALLED EORDLEY CASTLE. 1 HIS ruin stands in the north-west corner of the county, in the hundred of Eastburne, and about three miles north of the vil- lage of that name. X'ulgar tradition reports it to have been a castle demolished ill one of the Danish invasions ; but its situation does not seem to give much sanction to that opinion, as it stands in a deep woody bottom* commanded at a very small distance all round, and so covered as not to be visible till one is close upon it; indeed, it is scarcely known in the neighbourhood that such a buildino; exists. Another tradition makes it to have been a mad-house belonoiim to the nunnery of Eastburne ; but unless that house, which con- sisted of only five or six nuns, had much more than their propor- tionable share of lunatics, this supposition cannot be likely; in- deed it is not here mentioned as probable, but solely to shew how little 136 SUSSEX. little is at present known about it. The building scorns to have been rather too big and solid for an hermitage, for which its soli- tary and gloomy situation is admirably well calculated. \V'hat it really was, appears impossible to ascertain ; as, after a most diligent search in every book where an account of it might be expected, not even the slightest information could be ob- tained. From a careful investigation of the ruin, it may be discovered that it was a quadrangular building, nearly twice as long as broad, measuring on the outside thirty-three feet four inches, by sixty- eight feet. The parts standing are the westernmost end, with small returns on the north and south sides ; the first containing eight feet two inches, and the second eleven feet six ; the thickness of the walls about five feet four inches. These and the other parti- culars are more clearly pointed out b\' the annexed plan. Near the door are some slight traces of a narrow winding stair-case. The manor of Verdeley, alias Boxton, in which this ruin stands, was held, the 1st of Edward VI, by Sir Anthony Brown, by mili- tary service, and is at present the property of his descendant, the Right Honourable Anthony Joseph, Viscount Montague, by whose direction a way has been cut to it through the wood. — 'I'his view was drawn anno 1784. WAR. 1 ^iiiii \\- If. I ! ! [ 137 ] WARWICKSHIRE. KENELWORTIi PRIORY. (Plate II.) 1 HE former plate shewed the south front of this pictures(|ui? little ruin, which seems to have been a gateway ; this gives the appearance of its opposite or northern side, drawn on the same day. Although it has been said in the former account, that very little of the buildings of this priory are standing, yet a number of the foundations may be traced in the adjacent close, and the country-people talk much of some monstrous ovens that were standing, within the memory of several ancient persons living, about twenty years before these views were taken. When the hospitality kept by religious houses, particularly those of the larger kind, is duly considered, as well as the great number of poor daily relieved at their gates, these vast ovens and large kitchen chimneys, so frequently found and so much talked of, should not be entirely attributed to the giuttoiiy of the monks, who, reprehensible as they might be in several instances, were foully calumniated by the visitors appointed by King Ilenrv VIII. in order to make their dissolution the less unpo[)ular. VOL. VIII. N M -MAX. 138 W A Px W I C K S II I R E. MAXTOR E CASTLE. jVl.vxTOKF, is called, in the Conqueror's Survoy, Macliitone, and there suid to contain five hides of land, except one virgate, with woods a mile in breadth, and halt" a mile in length. One Ali- nuindns was the possessor of it in Edward the Confessor's time ; but after the Norman settlement it belonged toTurchil of War- wick, and his^ tenant Alnod. From some one of Turchil's descen- dants it was granted to the Limoses, lords of Solihull, of whicli it was reputed a member, 15 Edward II. Amabil, the wife of John do Braose, was heir to John de Limosey, the last heir- male, and had possession of it after the decease of his widow. She died without issue, and William de Odingsels, son of Ba- silia her sister, was found the next heir. He, in the 34th of Henry III. had a charter of free warren for all his demesne lands here, and 13 Edward I. claimed by prescription, a court leet, assize of bread and beer, &c. and was allowed them. He was succeeded by Edmond his son, who dying without issue, his inheritance came to be divided among his four sisters ; of whom Ida, the eldest, marrying John de Clinton, had this lordship for her share, aiKl carried it into his family. lie resided at Aming- ton, as his lather had done, till after his marriage, and then had his seat here. He served as one of the knights the shire, in the parliament at Lincoln, and attending the king in his Scotch warsy so highly merited of him, that the king called him his be- ]nvt(.\ esquire, and gave him an estate of 40/. per annum in Scot- land, belcngiiig to Malcolm Dromond, then in arms against him. He died 8 Edward II, and left two sons, John and William. John was a knight and consei'vator of the peace, 3 Edward III. and not long alter was summoned' to parlian)ent among the barons, but it was thought by his brother's means: for Wil- liam was a much more famous person, and being constituted justice of Chester, he was aflmitted into the highest trusts, as constable =sv §- i W A R V/ I C K S H I R E. J39 constable of Dover castle, and warden of the Cincjue Ports, in which places he gave such conspicuous proofs of his conduct and fidelity, that he was summoned to parliament among the superior nobility, and created Earl of Huntingdon. After which, being still much in favour, he was constituted admiral of the western seas, keeper of the king's forests south of Trent, &.c. and being thus highly honoured and enriched, he laid the foun- dation of a fair and strong castle here, in a c]uadrangular forn), for a seat for his nephew, Sir John Clinton, and his heirs, iwA made a j)arl< of the outwood. lie died August 23, 1354, ('28 Edward 111.) and left Sir John Clinton, Knight, his brother's son, his heir. lie was summoned to parliament from 31 Edward III. to his death, which happened 20 Richard 11. leaving Sir Wil- liam Clinton, Knight, Lord Clinton and Say, (his mother being one of the coheirs of the Lord Say) his grandson and heir. Me was also summoned to parliament among the lords, and much employed in public services all his life, which ended 10 Henry VI. leaving John his son and heir, who passed away the inherit- ance of this castle and lordship soon after to Humphrey earl of Stafford, and Ann his wife, in exchange for Wishton and Wode- ford, in Northamptonshire. The earl of Stafford being thus in possession of this castle and manor, much adorned and strengthened it, ami coiistituted AVilliam Draicole constable of it; and being created Duke of Buckingham, obtained a licence of Reginald Bouiers, bishop of the diocese, to have the marriages of his children s<)iemMi;i:ed in his chapel th.ere. To him succeeded in his lunn)urs, IJenry his grandson; upon whose attainder, I Richard III. the custody of it was committed to Walter Grant, one of tiie Queen's gent !e- nuni ushers; bat that king being soon after slain in lUvsworih fitid. King liei.ry VH. made Wm. Trussel, Esq. his constablii here, till I'^iward Duke of Buckingham had his father's estate restored to hi.ii, when John Harcwell, ol" W'avrn-Wotlon, E (|. w:'.^ uiiule eonbtabie of it by that duke. Ho enjoyed it iill tiie ' ,. :' (lukc 140 W A K W 1 C K S II 1 U E. tluko was attainted and executed for high treason, 13 Henry VI IF. It uas seized upon by the king, and given by him to Sir William Conipton, Knight, and the heirs of his body, to be held of the crown in copite, by knight's service, and to his posterity. It continued till William Lord Conipton, his great-grandchild, sold it, 39 Elizabeth, to Sir Thomas Egerton, Knight, keeper of the great seal, from whom Thomas Dilkes, Esq. purchased it, 41 Elizabeth; one of whose descendants, William Dilkes, Esq. is the present proprietor, This view was drawn anno 1773. WILT. -5; I [ HI ] WILTSHIRE. THE COUNCIL-HOUSE, SALISBURY. liiis building, which has much the appearance of a German or Dutch Stadthouse, stands in a corner of the market-place ; it is built chiefly of timber, and consists of four stories, crowned with a cupola. In the lower parts are held the law and crown courts ; above is the council-chamber, where the city justices meet every Monday for the determination of causes arising within their jurisdiction. The corporation also assemble hereon public occasions, or for the transaction of city business. The council-chamber is spacious, and ornamented with the portrait of his present Majesty, one of Queen Anne, and divers others of benefactors to the city. A manuscript list of the mayors of Salisbury, records the fol- lowing particulars : '* 1573. William Davis. Then was the elm cut down, that stood where the council-house now standith. " 1579- The posts of the council-house was set upon the east side. "The present chair of the mayor has this date on it, (1585,) and the initial letters R. B. (Robert Bower) then probably it was completed and finished. " 1615. Henry Preston. Then the council-house began to be enlarged. " 16"58. Then was the council-house broken open, and the silver chains taken away. " 1682. Then were the first leads of the council-house built. VOL. viii. o o *' 1688. 143 WILTSHIRE. " 1688. King James came into the market-place and made a speech, in which he said, that he would maintain the Protestant religion as long as he bad a drop of blood in his body, and im- mediately his nose fell a bleeding. Then the cross and crown was blown off from the council-house. N. B. These ridicu- lous omens are mentioned by several superstitious writers. " 1714. Then was the council-house beautified, and new rails put up in the top." This building was almost destroyed by fire, which broke oiit Nov. 16, 1780, early in the morning, after the mayor's feast ; and a bill has since passed in parliament, authorizing the magis- trates to collect tolls on different articles brought to market, for the repair or rebuilding of it. — — This view was drawn anno 1777- THE MARKET CROSS AT MALMSBURY. SEE Page 38, vol. vi. XHis handsome structure was, according to Leland, built at the expence of the townsmen of Malmsbury, some time about the reign of Henry VII. His words are : " Malmesbyri hath a good quik market kept every Saturday. " There is a right fair and costeley peace of worke in the mar- ket-place made al of stone, and curiously voultid for poore market folkes to stand dry when rayne commeth. Ther be 8 great pillers and 8 open arches ; and the work is 8 square ; one great piller in the middle berith up the voulte. The men of the towne made this peace of work in hominum memorid." Itin. vol. II. p. 27. The town of Malmsbury has produced several men of con- siderable eminence ; particularly William of Malmsbury, the historian ; Oliver of Malmsbury, by some called Elmer and Egel- mer, a mathematician ; and Thomas Hobbs, the philosopher. As \V I L T S H I R E. 143 As the mathematician here mentioned, attempted an art now much cultivated, I mean the art of fljing, a short account of him will |)robabIy be agreeable to the reader : — Ohverof Malms- bury, otherwise Elmer or Egelmer, was born within the precincts of the monastery of this place, of which he became a member as soon as he was qualified by age and education. After his studies in humanity, he applied himself to the mathematics and judicial astrology ; of his proficiency in the latter, he is said to have givrn a proof, by his judgment uj)on a comet, which ap- pearing suddenly, he thus saluted it in Latin, Venhti, &c. ; in English, " Art thou come ? Thou art an evil to be lamented by many mothers, threatening England with utter destruction^;" nor did he miss the truth therein, though he lived not to see the accomplishment of his prediction ; for soon after William the Norman entered England with his victorious sword, depriving many of their lives, more of their lands, and all, for a time, of their laws and liberties." But though he thus clearly foresaw the fate of others, he could not foresee his own ; for taking a fancy that, like Daedalus, he could fly, he made himself wings, and having raised himself upon one of the highest towers in Malmsbury, he took a flight from thence, aud flew, as it is said, a furlong, and then falling, broke both his thighs, and soon after died, anno 1060, five years before the coming of William the Conqueror. He is said to have written some books of astrology, geometry, and other parts of the mathematics. ^This view was drawn anno 1785. WORCE.S. [ 144 ] WORCESTERSHIRE. GREAT MALVERN PRIORY. xiERE before the Conquest, in a great wild forest, was an her- mitage, or some kind of religious society for seculars, with an endowment by the gift of King Edward the Confessor. Some attribute this foundation to Urso de Abetot, but Tanner thinks without sufficient authority ; first, because of the entire silence of both the charters of King Henry I. in which the preceding benefactions are particularly recited; secondly, from the name, which seems very unlike that of a Saxon ; and adds, that most probably this Urso was a Norman, as one of that name came over with King William the Conqueror, who made him sheriff of Worcestershire, and gave him several estates, which be- longed to the Saxons before the Conquest. About the year 1083, Aldewine, the chief of this community, was persuaded by St. Wolstan, bishop of Worcester, to assume the rule of St. Bene- dict ; upon which he immediately set about procuring benefac- tions for the building, and endowing a prior}' of that order. Gislebert, abbot of AVestminster, with the consent of his con- vent, assigned several manors and estates for that purpose, at a yearly rent, according to the Lincoln taxation at 24/. 13s. 4(1. wherefore this monastery was looked upon as a cell, or at least as a subordinate to the abbey of Westminster ; it is nevertheless to be observed, that though the abbot of Westminster always claimed the patronage, and upon that account, approved and confirmed the election of the prior, and at length got this priory •wholly exempt from the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Worcester ; yet nrnijip WORCESTERSHIRE. U5 yet this prior and convent acted in the management of their estates, &c. as an independent corporation. This priory had divers noble and royal benefactors; anion> ^ YORKSHIRE. 147 I the end of Tanner's Notitia: Robert, 1226; Ilamo, 12.5.5; John, died 1307; Thomas Dunelin, elected 1507; Wihiam, i309; Ber- nard de Langton, elected 1313; John Englis was succeeded by John Welles, I^IO ; Thomas Moreton, 1412. The arms of this monastery were, Gules, three esca'.lop-shells argent. Leland, vol. I. p. 9^, of his Itinerary, IIjus describes the situ- ation of this monaster}' : " From Bernardcs castle over the right faire bridge on Tese, of three arches, I entcrid into Richmont- shire, that still strcaceith up with thitripe to the hcde of Tese. " From this bridge I ridd a mile on the stony and rokky bank of the Tese, to theBek called Thuresgylle, a mile from Barnardes castelle, and therithathea bridge of one arch, and straiteenterith into Tese. The priory of Egleston joinith hard to this bakk, and also hangyith over the high bank of Tese. I saw in the body of the churche ofEglestonc two very fair tumbes of gray marble; in the greater was buried, as I learned, one Syre Rafe Bowes ; and in the lesser, one of the Rokcsbys." — This view was drawn 1786. HARWOOD CASTLE. AccoRDiNO to Camden, here was a castle before the reign of King John ; but from the arms of the Aid burghs, which are carved in stone over the principal entrance, and in several ()art3 af the small chapel, it may be concluded, that Sir William Ald- burgh either greatly repaired or built the principal part of the present castle, in the reign of King Edward III. Sir William died without issue-male, leaving two daughters, between whom his estates were divided. Elizabeth, the eldest, had for her moiety, this castle, &c. She married for her second husband, Sir Richard Redman, whose descendants seem to have made it their chief residence, till the reign of Queen Elizabeth. — In the twenty-first of that Queen, they disposed of it to the Gaa- coines. 148 YORKSHIRE. coines, of Gawthorp ; the daughter and heir of tliat family marry- ing Thomas Wentworth, of Wentworth Woodhouse, Esq. Avhose grandson was afterwards Earl of Stafford : that family havin<; contracted great debts in the civil wars, in order to dischar'•""• ]50 YORKSHIRE. liam, being eldest, he gave this castle; and to Robert the castle of ¥/arke, vith a baron ry in Scotland. Helmseley castle was in the family of Ros in the 13th Edw. L when Robert, the third of that name, died seised of it, and left it to his son and heir "William, who having done great service in rej)elling the Scotcl), Kino- Edward II. gave him a tower in London to hold as appur- tenant to this castle. In the 13th Edw. III. npon information that the Scoth meditated another invasion, the king commanded Ros to repair to his castle at Plam-lake, and to remain there witli bis forces during the winter, for the defence of the Northern parts. This William died possessed of this manor and castle 17th Edw. HI. and his posterity enjoyed it, till, for want of issue-male, the females carried it into other families ; but Margaret, the relict of the last John lord Ros, had this castle, and the manors thereunto belonging, assigned for her dowry, on condition they should devolve to George duke of Clarence, brother to King Edward IV. in case he survived her; but he be- ing put to death for high treason, they probably escheated to the king, with his other estates. They were in the crown in the reign of Henr}' VII. when that king made Charles, the natural son of Henry duke of Somerset, constable of the castle. It afterwards belonged to the family of IManners, earls of Rutland, who held it for many generations, till by the marriage of the daughter of Francis earl of Rutland, with George Villars duke of Buckingham, it came into that family, where it remained till the year 16"90, when the executors of the last duke sold it to Sir Charles Duncombe, wliose nephew built a fine house near the scite of the castle. The architect of that house was Vanbrugh. It is now the property of his son, Charles Duncombe, Esq. This ruin makes a beautiful object in the park. The part here delineated was the keep or chief tower ; at a first view, it some- what resembles that of Richmond in this count}'. This castle appears to have been in a defensible state during the troubles of Charles I : for from the Parliamentary Chronicle, intitled, I YORKSHIRE. 151 intitled, " The Burning Bush not consumed," we learn, that Hehnsley castle being besieged by Lord Fairfax, a party of the royal horse advanced from Skipton and Knaresborough in order to relieve it ; but being repulsed, Nov. 12, and a large quantity of meal, salt, other provisions, for that castle taken, about the 20th of Nov. (l64-i-) it surrendered u[)on articles, with all the ordnance, arms, stores and ammunition, except what the gar. rison marched out with according to agreement. In it were about two hundred men, nine pieces of ordnance, tiirce hun- dred musquets and pikes, six barrels of powder, and much money, plate, and other plunder; man}' of the common soldiers turned to the Lord Fairfax, whereof at least forty went presently to assist at the siege of Scarborough. — This view was drawn A. D. 1785. HOVEDENE OR HOWDEN CHURCH. liiis church stands in the East-Riding of Yorkshire, and in a district called Howdenshire, exempt from the authority of the archdeacon, and subject to the dean and chapter of Durham. AVhen it was built, does not appear. Tanner says, that Hugh, prior of Durham, obtained a bull from Pope Gregory IX. for the appropriating this church towards the maintenance of sixteen monks. But upon further consideration, Robert the bishop of Duriiam, A. D. 126G, caused it to be divided into five prebends for secular clerks, viz. Hoveden, valued 26'th Henry VHI. at 18/. 135. 4c/. in the whole, and 12/. clearly; Skelton, valued at 15/. 13s. 4c/. in the whole, and 9/- clearly; Thorp, valued at l6l. lis. 4fi. in the whole, and 9/. 18a'. 4 J. clearly ; Saltmarsh, valued at l6l. 13s. 4d. in the whole, and 10/. clearly ; and Bam- by, valued at l6/. 6s, 8c/. in the whole, and 9/- IS*- '^J- clearly. To these were added, not long after, a sixth prebend, viz. Skip- witb, valued at 18/. in the whole, and 13/. 6s. 8s. -i* [ 161 ] ISLE OF MAN. THE TINWALD.— (Platk I.) JLiiE Tinwald is an artificial n)ount covered with turf, havinw steps cut on its side, I lliink the south, for ascending to the top : from hence all new laws made for the government of the island are promulgated, and from it are called Acts of Tinwald. The word Tiiii (jr Ting, in the Jslandic language, signifies an assembly of the people, and If uld a field or place. There is neither history nor tradition respecting the erection of this mount, which pro- bably is ofgreat antiquity. It issurrounded by a ditch and earthen rampart, including an area of the form of a right-angled paralle. logram, within which, at the end facing the steps, is a small church, where, previous to tlve publication of any new law, the chief magistrates attend divine service. The entrance into this area was through some upright stone jaumbs covered with transverse imposts, somewhat like those at Stonehenge ; most of these imposts are now down. The Tinwald stands about three miles from the town of Peele, in the high road leading from thence to Douglas. This view was drawn anno 1774. THE TINWALD HILL.-(Plate II.) This view presents the north side of the mount, and the church mentioned ii\ the former plate. At a distance is seen one of the lofty mountains, of which there are several in this island. This view was drawn anno 1774. VOL. VIII. TT DRUIDICAL [ 162 ] DRUIDICAL TEMPLE IN THE ISLAND OF JERSEY. Plate I. This temple is situated on the top of a pretty high rocky hill^ near the town of St. Helier. It was covered with earth, pertiaps done by the Druids to secure it from profanation by the Romans: in that state it had much the appearance of a large barrow or tumulus. It continued thus hidden till the colonel of the St. Helier militia procuring the ground to be levelled for the more convenient exercise of his corps, the workmen discovered and cleared it. An exact model of this curious piece of antiquity was made on the spot, and sent to General Conway, governor of the island, from which, by the favour of the Hon. Mr. Horace Walpole, these drawings were made. There was no scale to this model, neither were the cardinal points of the compass marked ; but from an account and plan communicated to the Antiquarian Society, the whole seems to have been of very small dimensions ; this temple itself, compared to many structures of the same kind, being very little more than a model. Many other Druidical monuments have been discovered here, and in the neighbouring islands of Guernsey, Alderney, and Sark ; but most of them have been pulled down, and used for building or repairing fences ; this however proves that none of them were very large. This S5 5 1 JERSEY. 163 This temple consisted of a circle of about twenty feet diame- ter, formed by rude unhewn stones set upright, and when entire, had within it six cells covered at the top, and open inwards to- wards its center, called Cromkhs ; the area of the largest of these was about four feet three inches square, its height three feet seven inches ; another of less area measures four feet in height : one of these cells, on the north-east side, has been demolished ; whether by the workmen in the discovery, or otherwise, is not certain. To this circle, on the south-east side, is attached a covered entrance, the uprights composed of many rough stones set parallel to the diameter, and covered at the top by four equally irregular; this passage measures on the inside about fifteen feet in depth, five feet three inches in breadth, and four feet four inches in height. About five or six feet south-east of the entrance is a single stone, that seemingly belonged to the temple. This view shews the western side of the circle looking towards the inward opening of the covered passage or entry. It was drawn 1786. DRUIDICAL TEMPLE.-(Plate II.) This view shews the southern side of the temple, with the profile of the passage, and the small detached stone mentioned in the general description. Two medals were found here, one of the Emperor Claudius; the impression on the other obliterated by time. About fifty yards south from the temple, are five places in the form of graves, lined with stone on every side, but not paved ; their direction east and west. Jf.ND OF VOLUMZ EIGHT. . HitK'lTELL.PiiiUir.Mdrsihult Sin-v** CoMenSi{uare. r 105 ] GENERAL INDEX TO THE EIGHT VOLUMES. Note, The Figures I, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 1, 8, refer to the Vol. they arc. Name of the Abbey, Castle, Mo- nastery, Priory, or Ruin, Sec. Aberconway Castle, see") Conway ^ Abergavenny Castle, \>\. 1 and 2 Abbey Bridpje at Bala Sala Abbot of Cirencester's Villa at } Uodmarton j A1)bol's Tower, Evesham Abbot's Kitchen, (Jlastonbnry Netkv Abbey County where situated. Agatha's {St.)Monastery,pl. 1 Sc'i Alban's (St.) Abbey Oatc Alderbury Church, Fri|;e of | )). Hi?," Preface j Aldertoii Cluirch All Saints Church, Dunwich .Ml Saints and St. Mary's Col- 7 letje, ;\Iaidstonc y Allinjiton Castle, vide Addenda AIneniouth Church Alnwick Castle, pi. 1, 2, and 3. Abbey Gate-House Ancient Crypt, Guildford Caeniar. Motnnou. Lsleof.Ma (iloucest. Worccst. Somerset. Hants Yorksh. Hertford. Ditto 0.\fordsh. Suilolk Ditto Kent Ditto Northum Ditto Ditto Surry Vol. Name of the Abbey, Castle, I\Io- nastery, Priory, or Ruin, &.c. Arches in the City Wall of Canterbui-y Architecture, (Plate of) p. 11 1 Preface Architecture, Gothic, &c. an Historical Account of. Pre- face, p. 107 to 127. Architecture, Specimens of (iothic and Saxon Capitals, Arches, Columns, &c. Pre- face, p. 123, .Vrmour (Plate of) to face p. 51, Preface Arundel Castle Arwenacke House .Vrwerton-IIall Gale A.suph (St.) Cathedral Church of Ashbv dc la Zouch Castle, pi. 1 and 2. Aufjustine's (St.) ^lonastery, Canterbury, pi. 1, 2, and Plan of ditto Au<;ustiiie's IMonastery, (ruin- ed Offices) at Canterbury Author's Portrait to face his Address to the Public Aysgarfh Bridge County where situated. Kent Sii.sscx Cornwall Suffolk Flintbhire Leicester. Kent Ditto Yoksliirc Vol. i VOL. VIII. 16C) GENERAL INDEX. Name of the Abbey, Castle, Mo- nastery, Priory, or Rum, &c. County will-" re situated Vol. B Hacon's (Friar) Study liaclitgrif; House Uauihoroutjh Castle, (vide Ad- } ilinda) (il. 1 and 2. ^ iBaiibury Churi'ii Ranijor Church and Brid^r,; Barireston Church, Vol.1. Pre- 7 face, p. 11-3. j Grand Door, p. 111. Basinouork ^Monastery Battle Al)hey, pi. 1 and 2. Beaulieu Abbey Beaumont Palace Btauniarais Castle Great Hall Cattle, ])1. :i. Beauchief, or BeechiiV Priory Beaurepairc, or Bear Park Chapel in ditto Bederieks«-orth, no^ Bury St. } Edmund's S Bedford Ouse Bridge, pi. 1 & 2. Beeston Castle, pi. 1 and 2. Bees (St.) .Monastery P.c<4ehain, or Beyham Abbey Berfjhanistead Castle l'>ermondsey Abbey (Jate Bcrnart. H Shro])sh. 5 Norfolk t Cheshire 1 (ilaniorg. 1 Lincoln. :i Northum. 4 Hereford 2 Nortliuni. 4 Suflblk 5 Sussex J Ditto 5 Derby. sh. S Vorksh. 6 Ditto 6 Sussex 5 Northum. 7 Ditto 4 Essex 2 Northam. 4 \'oik»h. G Sussex .5 Name of the Abbey, Castle, Mo- nastery, Priory, or Ruin, &c. County where situated. Bradscile, or RadiL;;und's Abbey Rramlier Castle Bi-ambrough,<)r Bramber Church Branspetli Castle Brecknock Castle Brede Place Briavcl's (St.) Castle Bright helinst one Block-house Briiikburn J'riory Brougham Castle Brough Castle Burnham Abbey, pi. 1 and 2. Bumuigh Clia])el Burgh, ]5rugge,or Bridgenorth 7 Castle j Burgh, orCnobersburg Castle, \ and Plan j Bury St. Fdmund's, (Arches at) Bustleham.or Byeshani Monast. j Butley Priory C Caernarvon Castle, pi. 1 and 2. Inside Viewuf ■ the Great Gate Caerphilly, orScngenuith Cas- } tie, pl."l and2. j Castle Great Hall Vol. Kent Sussex Ditto Durham Brecknoc Sussex Gloucest. .Sussex Northum. Westmor. Ditto Bucking. Somerset. Shropsh. Suffolk Ditto Berkshire Suflblk Cambridge Ca.->tle , Plan of, (Bir.l's- j l-.ye View) I Canterbury Casile, & Plan of do. Cathedral Plan of ditto Palace Great Hall West (iate — ^— — Winchcap (Jate Arches in the City 7 Wall of, (see Arches) j 'Cardigan Castle Carisbrook Castle, in the Isle ■) of Wight, and Plan 1, 2, '■ and 'S. ) Carew Castle Carli.sle Castle, and Plan of ditto Cardiff', or Caerloph Castle Castle Tower Keep Cardinal Wolsey's Gate, Ipswitl Cartinele, or Kertmele Priory Castle Cornet, pi. 1 and 2. Castle-Acre, or Estacre Mo- > nastery, pi. 1 and 2. ) Caernarv. Ditto Ditto (dauiorg. Ditto Cambrid. Ditto Kent Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Cardigan Hants Pembrok Cumber. Glamorg. Ditto Ditto Suflblk Laucash. D.tto Norfolk GENE R A L I N D E X. 167 i Name of the Abbey, Castle, Mo- nastery, Priory, or ruins, &c. "•■i Cistlr-AcTP f'ristli', pi. 1 and -2. Castles, an Hi>-ti r cal Actouiit ") o:, Iroiu p. 1 lo '.ii, V itii ( IMacliines used in bcsicg-Jng &c. Preface, p. IG Castrc, t.r Castor Hall, or Cas- | tic, pi. 1 and 'i. ] Caterriek I'.ridge Catharine-Hill and (. near tuiildford Chapi 1, Impel, 1 ( ( Inside 1 View of) Cathedral Chureh, Hereford,") & Plan of ditto J Caverswall Ca-tle Chapel of Notre Dame de Pas - of St. .Iostj)li, . 12S to lit. f S])ecimen of the ~( Handwriting of, p. 125. Dunat's (St.) or Denw it's Cas- \ tie, pi, 1 and 2. j ' Watch Tower Dover Castle, Plan of i i>l. 1 and 2. I Old Cluir.h 'Druids' Temple, pi. 1 and 2. 'Druidical Antiquities (ac- ^ I count of) lojto 142, to face [ I J). l;i."> Plate of Preface 1.35 ) jDudley Castle, pi. 1 and 2. Priory, id. 1 and 2. Wiltshire Vorkih. ! Hants Kent I Hants ! I iSussex Surry Ditto Ditto Xorthum Kent Ditto Pembrok Ditto Denbeig. Hants Montgo. Caernarv. Vol. Glamorg. t Ditto 7 Kent 3 Ditto A Ditto ■1 Ier»cy 8 Stafford. W'orce.st. Dunmow (l.ittli-) Piiory Church'Fssex Dunravcn House, pi. 1 and 2. Dunstable Priory, pi. I and 2. Ciatc |])unwich, (AH Saints) Church Dunnington Castle, and Plan 7 of ditto 3 iDunstaubrough Castle Durham Castle — — Cathedral, and Plan } of ditto 5 (ilaniorg. BeiTord. Ditto Sudblk Derkshirt N'orthuni Duiham Ditto 168 G E N E K A E 1 N D E X. Name of llic Abbey, Castle, i\Io- na^tery, Priory, or Ruins, itc. County uliere situated Vol. Eastbiu-y House I'iastbuiuc- Priory L'/lgar's Tower, Worcester Lg-loston Alibey F.iizabcili Castle Kiy House, London, \A. \,2,&.\ Plan of ditto ^ i^skdale Chapel listacre.orCastle-AcrelMonas- } tery, pi. I and 2. ] Evcshaui .-Vbbey Abbot's Tower Ewenny, or Wenny Priory Farley Castle ^ Chapel Fariiliani Castle, |>1. 1 and 2. Faversliaui Abbey, pi. 1. North Gale, pi. 2. and ) Plan j Finchall Priory- Flint Castle, and Plan of ditto plate 2. Ford Abbey Fountain's Abbey, pi. 1 and 2, \ and Plan of ditto 3 Fowey Town, Haven, and ] Cas'tie, pi. 1&2. ]■ Outer, or St. Catherine's ^ Caotle, at Fowey, pi. 1 and 2. Framlington Castle, j)l. 1 and 2 Friar Bacon's Study Gate-House, Morpeth Castle George's (St.) Chapel, Windsor Germain's (St.) Cathedral, Peele Castle, & Plan of ditto Germain's (St.) Priory, pi. 1 and 2. Ger\'is, Joreval, or Jervaux Abb ( iiseburn, or Gysburgh Priory, 7 pi. 1 and 2. " j Glastonbury Abbey Abbot's Kitchen Chapel of St. Joseph Goatshead, or Gateshed's Monast Godstow Nunnery Goodrich Castle, pi. 1 and 2. Essex ^■'u.ssex \\'orcest. Vork,h. lersey .Middles. Vorksh. Nor fcU Worcest. Ditto Glamorg. Somerset Ditto .Sui ry Kent Ditto Durham Flintshire Ditto Devonsh. Yorksh. Cornwall Ditto Suflblk Oxfordsh Xorthum Berkshire Isle of M. Cornwall Yorksh. Ditto Somerset. Ditto Ditto Durham Oxfordsh, Hereford. Niinic of the Alibey, Castle, Mo- nastery, or Priory, Ruins, &c. (lOthic Architecture, Pref. p. 125 (lowray, or Mount Orguiel Cast, tireat Hall, Palace, (sec Canter.) Great Malvern Priory Gregory's (St.) Priory, Canterb Gretham Hospital Grey Friars' Monast. Winchelsco at Piichmonu Guildford Ca.stle Gunduiph's Tower, Rochester Gyrwi, (see Jarrow) Monastery II Hadley Castle Ha'^hmond.orHaughmondAbb. llalhaker iiuusc Hailing House Hales Owen Abbey Hampton Court llarwood Castle, jil. 1 aiul2. Hastings Castle, 1 and 2. and } Plan of ditto ] Hawerden Castle Haverfordwest Priory Castle & Bridge Helmsle}' Castle, Frontispicee 7 to Vol. VI. I Heppe, or Shaj) iNIonastcry Hermitage, near Warkworth, "^ and Plan of ditto j' HerefordCathedral,andPlan of ] ditto ( IlerstinonccauxCastle, pi. 1,2, ] 3, and 4. f Hertford Castle, pi. 1 and 2. Hermit and Knight — Einble- 1 niatical Plate to the Intro- [• duction ) History preserving the Monu nients of Antiquity, Fron tispicce to Vol. I. Holdenby House Holv-IIead Collegiate Church, 7 il. 1 and 2. ' ]■ H<)lv-Head IMarket-Place HdV Ghost Chapel Holy Island Castle , or Lindisfarne Mo- | County where situated .1 ersey Kent \\ orcest. Kent Dui-ham Sussex Yorksh. Surry Kent Durham Essex Shropsh. Sussex Kent SlirojxMi. M.d.lle.s. Yorksh. Sussex Flintshire Pembrok. Ditto Yorksh. Westmor. Xorthum Hereford. Sussex Hertford. nastery, pi. 1, 2 and 3. J llovedene, or llov. den Church Hubberstone Priory Ilulne Abbey, pi. 1, 2, 3, and 7 Plan of ditto j Hurst Ca-tle Xortham Anglesca Ditto Hants Northum. Ditto Yorksh. Pembrok Xorthum. Hants G J^ N E U A L IN D i: X. IC9 Name of tlie Abbey, Castle, Mo- nasttry, Piiory, or Ruins, &c. Hyde Abbej', near Winches- ^ ter, i;l. 1 and 2. 5 I James's (St.) Hospiial, Lewes, 7 and ri-n of ditio ( Jarroii, orGyiwi Monastery Ifley, Eyrtey,"or Yftele Church Ii.troduction John of Gaunt's Kitchen, at ") Great Canford (, John's, (St.) Church sub Cas- j tro, near Lewes ( Joreval, Jervaux, or Gervis 1 Abbey ^ Joseph's (St.) Chapel, Glaston- } bury I Ipswich, (TowTi-Hall of) West Gate, or St. Mat- 7 thew's j Ipres Tower Iron-Acton (Cross at) Kenelworth Castle, pi. 1 and 2, and Plan of ditto — — Priory, pi. 1. Ditto) pi. 2. Castle, pi. ;{. County where situated. Kertmele, or Cartincle Priory Ket's Coity House Kidwelly Castle King John's House, ji Oldford King's House at Cvfestou Kirkstall Abbey, and Plan of ) ditto, pi. 1, 2, and -i. j Knap Castle Knaresborough Castle KnightsTemplars (the Temple } or Mansion of) at Stroud ^ Knight and Hermit — Lmble- i matical Plate to (he Intro- > duclion \ Lambeth Palace, pi. 1, 2, and 3 Plan of Lanecrost Priory, pi. 1 and 2. Hampbh. >usscx Durham Oxfbrdsli Dorsetsh. ■Sussex Yorkbh. Somerset. Sutiblk Ditto Sussex Gloucest. Warwick Ditto Ditto Di o ].,:mcash. Kent Cacrmar. Nliddles. Nottiugh. York.-hin Sussex Yorkshire Kent Ditto Laiighame, Castle or Talacharne, '^ Surry Ditto Cumber. Cacrmar. Vol .Vame of the Abbey, Castle, Mo- nastery, Priory, or Kuins, Sec. County where situated. Lanthony Piinrv, pi. 1 and 2. Monastery Latton Priory Launceslon Castle, p!. 1 and : r reds Castle Leibourn CartK, pi. 1 and 2. Lewes Priory, pi. 1 and 2. Castle, and I'iau of ditto Leyston Abbey Lindisfariie Monast. ; >1. 1, . &3 or Holy Island Moii. Frontispiece to Vol. 1 [Janblythian, or St. Qumtin's Castle Lland.fFc, Cathedral of Llandcga Church Llanfeth, or Laiitphey Court Llanstephan Cr.stle Ludlow C;istle, and Plan of ditto Ludlam's (Mother) Hole, near ) Farnhain ( Lundy Castle, pi. 1, 2, and 7 Plan of ditto j Lutger hali Cistlc Luton Tower Lyme Castle M Machines used in besieginsf 7 ancient Castles, Pref. p. 16. j Maidstone Bridge pi. 1 and 2. Mailing (West) Abbey Malmsbury Abbey, pj. 1,2, 3. Market, Cross at ♦^Jlouccst. .Moiimou l''sSfcX Cornwall Kent to "iussex Ditto SuOiJk Northuni. Ditto Glamorg. Ditto Caennar. Pcinbrok Caermai. Sbropsh. .Surry Isle of Lu. Wiltshire Bedford. Kent Mannorbeer Castle Margan, or Marram Abbey 'Market Place, Holyhead Marsh Caslle Martha's Hill, near Guildford Martin's (.St.) Monast. Rich- 7 mond, and Plan of Ditto 3 Priory, or the ( Newarko, Dover, pi. 1 & 2. ^ Mary(St.)Magdalen'sChurch, J Colchester i dc Pratis, Abbey of, at Leicester, pi. 1 &; 2. Abbej.Thetford. ' Gate of Priory, Ditto ^ Old House Mayfield Place, pi. land 2. Great Hall Maxtoke Castle \'ol Kent Ditto Wiltshire Ditto Pembrok. (jiamorg. •Vnglesea Guernsey ■iurry Yorksh. Kent i'.ssex 2 Leicester.! 8 Norfolk Ditto 'itio ^iissex Ditto \V'ar«ick.| VOL. VIII. 170 G E x\ E II A I. I N D E X. Name of the Abbey, Casitle, Mo- naslfiy, Priory, or Ruins, &c. Medenhani, or Madenham Abb. MtfrJon Castle Michael's (St. Mount, pi. 1,7 2, 3, and 4. j Chapel of ditto Inside ditto Old Fort ditto and Mount's Bay or the Vale Catt. or the Val ,,j County where situated. Church Michflhaui Priory, pi. 1 and 2. Middleham Castle, pi. 1, 2, 7 and Plan of do. j Minster Mona-t. Isle of Sheppey Lovell Priory Mitford Castle Monasteries, &c. an Historical 1 ' of, Preface, page > Bucking. Hants Cornwall Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Guernsey Ditto Sussex Yorksh. Kent O.xfordsh. Northum ■} Account 5.S to lOG Monks VVeremouth Monnow Gate and Bridge Monmouth Montgomery Castle, pi. 1 and 2 Monuments, pi. 1 to 9. Morpeth Castle Gate-house Motes Bulwark, Dover Mother Ludlam's Hole, near 7 Famham J N Naworth Castle, pi. 1 and 2. Netley Abbey, pi. 1 and 2. Abbot's Kitchen Vol. Durham Monmou Netherhall Gateway, pi. 1 and 2 Newark Priory Castle New Temple, Frontispiece to 7 Vol. III. ( Newarke, Dover, or St. Mar- 7 tin's Priory, pi. 1 and 2. J Nt-« port Gate Newcastle Castle Newport Castle upon Uske Norham Castle Norwich Castle O Odiham Castle >grnore Castle Okchampton Castle Old Church, Dover Castle Northum Kent Surry Cumberl. Hunts Ditto Essex- Surry Nottingh. London Kent Lincoln. Northum. Monmou. Northum Norfolk Hants Glamorg. Devonsh. Kent Name of the Abbey, Castle, Mo nastery. Priory, or Ruins, &:c. Old Kitchen, Stanton Harcourt Orford Castle, and Plan of ditto Chapel Ostenhaiiger.orWestenhangcr 7 House, pi. 1 and 2. j Our Lady's Chapel, near Bo- \ thall \ Mount Lynn Oxford Castle, and Plan of ditto Palace Gale, Canterbury of the Archbishops of \ York, at Southwell \ Pancrace's (St.) Chapel in St. Augustine's Monasterj' Patrick's (St.) Church, in Peele Castle Peele Castle Pembroke Castle, Gate of Pendennis Castle Pengenick Castle Penlme Castle Penrith Castle, and Plan of do. Pentraeth Chapel Pevensey Castle, pi. I and 2. Pickering Castle Plashey Castle Plymouth Fort, or Garrison of Pomeroy, or Poundbury Camp Portchester Castle Church in ditto Gate, Frontispiece ] VI. ( Vicar's House, or ( County where situated to Vol. Portland Chapel Old Castle Pontefract Church iPort Eliot and St Germain's Powis Castle pi. 2. Prudhow Castle Pythagoras' School Q Quarry Hole, Plan of. near 1 Guildford \ 'iueenborough Castle, Isle of , Sheppey 3 R Raby Castle, pi. 1 and 2. plan of ditto Oxfordsh. Suilblk Ditto Kent Northum. Norfolk Oxfordsh. Kent Notting. Kent Isle of M. Ditto Pembrok. Cornwall Ditto Giamorg. Cumberl. Anglesea .Sussex Yorksh. Essex Devonsh. Dorsetsh Hants Ditto Ditto Dorsetsh. Ditto Yorksh. Cornwall Montgo. Ditto N<;ithum Cambrid. SuiTy Kent Durham GENERAL INDEX. r 171 Nameoft'ie Abbey, Ca;tle, Mo- nastery, Pnory, or Ruins, &c. Radi!,rund's (St.) or Bradsole Abbey Ragland Castle Havensworth Castle, pi. 1 and Reading; Abbey, pi. 1 and 2. Relij^ious Orders, in their pro- per habit.', p. 90. Restonnel Cattle, pi. 1. pi. 2. Rhudland Castle Ric'im. nd Castle Dtto, Ditto, pi. 2. Ditto Great Tower, Frontis- ]iie(e to Vol. VIII. Ditto Plan at ditto Robert's Bridge Abbey Roch Abbey, pi. 1 pi. 2. i-rontis. to Vol. V. Rochester Castle, pi. 1 and 2. ' Plan of ditto Roman Anijiliith; atre, near Dorchester Roman Toner at Carbon Rotheiam Biidjfe, Chapel on Rougeinont Castle, Exeter Rushin ('astle, pi. 1 and 2. Abbey, at Ballasalley Rye House, pi. 1 and 2. Saffron Walden Castle .Sallay Abbey at Craven Salt wood Castle SiMison's (St.) Church Sandford, or Weymouth Castle Sandgate Castle Savoy Church, pi. 1 and 2. Saxon Architecture, Preface ~( p. 125. J Scotney Castle Sengennith or Caerphill Cas- | tie, pi. 1 and 2, j Spuulchre's (St.) Church Shap or Heppe Monastery Sh.lbred Priory Skipton Castle Snape Hall, near Bedale Someiford Granule Soi)ewell Nunnery near St. Al- 1 bins 3 Sou . Sea Castle Southiimplon Water Gate East (;ate South Tower and \ Gate J County where situated Kent Monmou Yorksh. Berkshire Cornwall Ditto Flintshire Yorksh. Ditto Ditto Ditto Sussex Yc.ksh. Ditto Kent Dorsetsh .Monmou Yolk^h. Devonsh. Isle of M Ditto Hertford Essex Yorksh. Kent Guernsey Dorse' sh. Kent Middles. Sussex (ilamorg. Xorthani, Westmor, Su.ssex Yorksh. Ditto Hants Hertford. Hants Ditto Ditto Ditto Vol. .Name of the Abbey, Castle, Mo. na.stery. Priory, or Rains, &c. Stanley St. Leonard's Priory } and Kitchen j .Stanstead Place Stanton Harcourt Capel Old Kitchen Strata Florida, Abbey of .Stratford Lan^thorne Abbey, 1 at Bow j .Stivecle or Stukely Church Stranger's Hall, entrance into J Christ's Church Monastery, ; Canterbury, Preface, p. 1 l.i. } Stoke Castle Stonhenge .Swithen's (St.) Church, near ^ the Priory of Stanley St. > Leonard j County where situated. Vol Gloucest. S Sussex Oxfordab Ditto Cardigan .i i 7 Essex 2 Bucking. 1 Kent 1 Shropsh Wiltshi.'. 8 Gloucest fanfield Castle rhirlwalIC.i.stle Fhornbury Castle Ticbtield House Tichfield House Chapel Titkencote Church Tiltey Abbey Tintern Abbev, pi. 1 and 2. Tinwall Hill, pi 1 and 2. Tixall Manor-House Gate Treniaton Castle Frinion (St.) Church Twizell Castle and Bridge Fyiiemouth Priory and Castle, pi. 1 | and 2. j Monk's .Stone U Upnor Castle Uske Castle Yorksh. iNurthum 'Gloucest. Hants Ditto Rutland.^. Essex Monmou Isle of M. Stafford. Cornuall I.sleof A! |Northuni 'Ditto Ditto Ditto Kent Moimiou Valle Cnicis Abbey jDenbeig. Verdley Castle [Sussex ■" Ditto Plan Ditto Vicar's House orChapel, Port- 1 L^,rsetsh. land ( 1 Vignette (emblematical) Ditto Ditto Ditto al) to-) Vol. L / I Vv,l.2.Vj Vol. :i. i I Vol. 4. J '»!' GENERAL INDEX. 'Name of ihe ALory, Casrlc, Mo- I tia-.terv, Prloiv, or Rums, ,&c. 1 "^^^ KValth;im Abbey Walton Castle Walton (Church of) on the Naize Warblington Castle W;irk«o'rth Castle, pi. 1, 2, 7 and Plan \ Hermitage, and ) Plan of ditto j \\'arM ick Castle, and Plan of do. Watergate, Southampton Water Tower, Chester WaMM'lcy /\bbcy, ]>). 1 and 2. Weiilork Monastery County where situated. Vol. \\ ens Win lurch 7 y ew's, \ and Bridj^e Weniiy or Ev.tnny Priory SVc.-t (iate, or bt."lVIatth I|)swieh West Gate, Canterbury West Cowes Castle West Abbey, JMalling Weymouth, or Sandford Castle \A'hitby Abbey, pi. 1 and 3. White Tower, or Tower of London jXame ot the Abbey, Ca.stle, ISIo- nastery. Priory, or Kuins, &c. Esse\ Sudblk Essex Hampsh. 2 8 « 8 Northum. 4 Ditto 4 Warwick Hants Cheshire .S\ury Shropsh. G 1 5 5 Yorksh. 6 Glamorg. 7 Suffolk 5 Kent Isle of W. Kent Dorsetsh. Yorksh. 3 2 3 2 6 London 3 White Friars, Canterbury NVhitton Castle Winburne, Twinbome, or Wyuiburne ^Minster Wincheap (Jate, Canterbury Winehelsea Gate, Frontispiece to Vol. IV. Church Castle iW'inchestcr's (Bp. of House, Waltliam, pi. 1 and 2. Winchester Castle Old Minster, now ' the Cathedral t Windsor Chapel, (St. Geore^e'; Winifred's (St.) Well, Holy-^ well Wolsey's (Cardinal) College-' Gate, Ipswith Wolverley Castle Chapel Wressel Castle York Bridge, Over the Ouse Coi nly where situated Kent Durham Dorsetsh. Kent "Sussex SulTolk Ditto Hants Ditto Ditto Berkshire Flintshire Suflblk Hant.s Ditto Yorksh. Ditto Vol. DIRECTIONS TO the BINDER. Author's Address to the Public to follow the County Index to Vol, VIII. Author's Portrait to be placed liefore his Address. Ancient Armour, Plate of, to face Page 51 of the Preface. Architecture to face Page 111 of the Preface. Architecture, Saxon and Gothic, to face page 125 of the Preface. Barfreston Church to face Page 113 of the Preface. Contents of the Preface to follow the Introduction, Vol. I. Dniidical Anticiuities, Plate of, to face Page 135 of the Preface. Fonts, Plate of, to face Addenda to the Preface, Page 160. Prize of Aiderbury Church, Oxfordshire, to face Page 112 of the Preface. Grand Door of Barfreston Church to face Page 111 of the Preface. Hermit and Knight, emblematical Plate, to face the Introdection to Vol. I. Index Map to follow the County Index of Vol. VII. Machines of War, Plate of, to face Page 16 of the Preface. Monuments, Plates of, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9, tofaceAddenda to the Preface, Page 153. The Preface to follow the Contents. Religious Orders, Plate of, to face Page 90 ef the Preface. Stranger's-Hall, Christ Church, Canterbury, to face Page 113 of the Preface. Signature O o, Page 141 ami 142, to be cancelled. N. B. — The Views, Plans, and County Maps to be placed in the same Order as the County Index to each Volume. finijtf. Brettell and Co. Printers, Marshall-street, Goiden-square, London, THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Santa Barbara THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW. Series 9482 ,rt' 1 ' I I ii , 1 I :H ll'Jl/ ,,' \ ^ "O .1.11 iU'' i' ,1.. ,.'i , ii.iii, , I'M, I 1. 1 i':^n ,