UC-NRLF $b 53a m>M * III |\>/ & LIBRARY University of California. Class Hb bepard Book Ceap»a; "Ye Olde Books Shoppe.' Moium Hots! BulldJ SALT LAKE CITY, 0TAH. » iC WILLARD GLAZIER. HEADWATEES MISSISSIPPI; Biographical Sketches op Early and Recent Explorers of the Great ' River, and a Full Account of the Discovery and Location of its True Source in a Lake beyond Itasca. CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER, Author of "Three Years In the Federal Cavalry," "Capture, Prison-Pen and Escape," "Bat- ties for the Union," "Heroes of Three Wars," "Peculiarities of American Cities," "Ocean to Ocean on Horseback," "Down the Great River," Etc. ■«©»- JjUitteftratefr ■•Bs- Chicago and New York : RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY 1898. IESERVATION IPY ADDED Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1892, by WILLARD GLAZIER, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. • • • • • • • • • • • • • •»• • • • ••••«••• • en TO ALICE, WHO SnARED THE FATIGUES AND PRIVATIONS OF MY SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE HEADWATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI; STOOD WITH ME AT THE SOURCE; AND DRANK FROM ITS REMOTEST SPRINGS, IS LOVINGLY INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOK. 222987 PREFACE. &%£. 'ROM the authenticated discovery of the Mississippi by Hernando de Soto in 1541, to the location of its True Source in 1881, comparatively little is known of the early pioneers or of the series of explorations which finally led to a solution of the mys- tery that surrounded its Headwaters for a period of over three hundred years. The Great River and its tributaries have been revealed to the world through a multitude of daring enterprises, the motives and incidents of which are familiar to but few of the present generation. Both the early and more modern explorers wrote much, but published little, and for the latter reason, the records of their travels have seldom found their way to the eye of the general reader. It is the purpose of this volume to present as far as possible, from all available sources, some idea of the circumstances which led to certain important discoveries in North America, together with such sketches of the old and recent explorers of the Mis- sissippi as the plan of the work will permit. Few or no attempts were made up to 1805 to penetrate the secret of the origin of the river, in which year Lieu- tenant Pike, commissioned by the Government, sig- (7) 8 PREFACE. nally failed of his object. The efforts of General Cass in 1820, and of Beltrami three years later, though well directed and zealously executed, also fell short of the attainment of the desired end — the Foun- tain-head of the Mississippi was unseen and unknown to them. Schoolcraft, in 1832, approached more nearly the solution of the problem than any of his predecessors, and, in the discovery of Lake Itasca, believed he had reached the extreme head of the river. He published his discovery to the world, and it was generally accepted on his authority. For fifty years Lake Itasca was laid down in the maps as the Source of the Father of Waters, still not a few expressed their doubts of the genuineness of the dis- covery, and the Indians of Northern Minnesota denied it altogether. Nicollet, a French savant, who followed in the footsteps of Schoolcraft in 1836, strangely confirmed the latter in what has since been proved to be a geographical error. Rumors having reached the author of the present volume, from various sources, of the doubtful cor- rectness of Schoolcraft in assuming Itasca to be the Primal Reservoir of the river, he determined to inves- tigate the matter in the interest of geography, and, having time at his disposal in the summer of 1881 P organized an expedition to proceed to the Headwaters. The result was the discovery of a body of water lying immediately to the south of Lake Itasca, and emp- tying into the latter through a perennial stream, the mouth of which was entirely concealed from view by a dense growth of lake vegetation and fallen trees. This lake, having an area of 255 acres, a circumfer- ence of between five and six miles, and an average depth of forty-five feet, being above Itasca, necessarily PREFACE. 9 invalidated the claim of Schoolcraft, and the author's location of the True Head of the Mississippi is now recognized by nearly all of the geographers and edu- cational publishers of this country and Europe. Between 1541 and 1881, every part of the Great River had been visited by intrepid explorers, with the exception of its almost inaccessible Source — of the final discovery of which full particulars will be found in Part Third of this volume. During the ten years that elapsed between 1881 and 1891, spasmodic efforts, partaking for the most part of a disingenuous and personal character, were made by a few cavilers to discredit the author's discovery, and it was thought by his friends and those who believed in his claim that a further investigation at the Head of the river might have the effect of throw- ing more light upon the question, and possibly of convincing the opposition. Accordingly, a Second Expedition was projected, and undertaken in August, 1891, composed of geographers, scientists, practical surveyors, and men of culture; a detailed account of which appears in the following chapters, for which the author respectfully bespeaks the reader's fair and candid consideration. An itinerary of the journey to the Headwaters of the Great River will be found in the early chapters of Part Third, in which occasional but brief reference is made to men and places, which may be of some practical utility to the tourist contemplating a pil- grimage through Northern Minnesota to the Source of the Mighty River. The writer makes no pretension to have exhausted the topics he has treated, or to placing his work in comparison with more elaborate productions; but 10 PREFACE. presents it to the reader simply as an epitome of the history of our magnificent river — a river in many respects without a peer. * * * The illustrations accompanying this volume are from drawings by True Williams, of Chicago, and the camera of Fred J. Trost, of the firm of Van Loo & Trost, Toledo, Ohio — the latter a member of the Expedition • of 1891, and the first to photograph scenery at the Headwaters of the Mississippi. Chicago, January 14, 1893. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. ALVAR NUNEZ CABEgA DE VACA. De Vaca— Pineda — De Narvaez Expedition— Florida — Ponce de Leon — Tampa Bay — Illusions — Weary of the Sea— No Signs of Gold— Disappointment — Much Harassed — Hung( r and Fatigue— A Council— Boats Built — Sail West— More Misfortune— Narvaez Lost at Sea — De Vaca Shipwrecked —Four Survivors— De Vaca Saved— Six Years with the Indians— Western Wilderness— Bison— The Rockies— De Vaca and the Mississippi— His Adventures— Returns to Spain— Interview with the King— Rio de la Plata- Exiled to Africa— Recalled— Death of De Vaca— His Life a Romance 25 CHAPTER II. HERNANDO DE SOTO. Discoverer of the Mississippi — Birthplace — Family Misfor- tunes—Out-of-door Sports— Don Pedro— De Soto and Isa- bella — Betrothed — Don Pedro's Vexation — His Treatment of De Soto— They Sail for South America— Pedro Plans De Soto's Death— De Soto Joins Pizarro — Battle with Uracca — De Soto's Bravery — Codro— De Soto and Isabella — Lette*" Intercepted — A Messenger — His Fate — De Soto's Revenge — Don Pedro's Successor — Cordova — De Soto Attacks Pedro— Pedro Orders Him to be Slain — Pizarro's Raid Upon Peru— Requests the Aid of De Soto— De Soto Rejoins Pizarro— Apology for De Soto 37 (li) 12 co:nte:nts. CHAPTER III. DE SOTO WITH PIZAKKO. A Dark Page — A Lover of Adventure — Soldierly Qualities- Overtures to De Soto — He Starts South — Deceived— Pizar- ro's Abject Nature — Outrages on the Peruvian King — Pizarro's Plunder — Natives Abandon the City — Cruelties of Pizarro — De Soto Crosses the Andes — A Peaceful Embassy — Novel Spectacle — Magnificent Highway — Strength of the Nation— Peruvian Camp — The Inca's Envoy — Gifts and Friendly Greetings — Pizarro Meets the Inca — Consternation of the Inca— Made Prisoner — De Soto's Conduct — The Inca Burned at the Stake — De Soto's Anger —Peruvians Burn Their Capital— Peru Conquered— De Soto Proposes to Return to Spain 50 CHAPTER IV. DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. Don Pedro Dies — Isabella Disinherited — Cabeca de Vaca — Expedition to North America — Governor of Cuba — Many Join De Soto — Sail for Cuba — Isabella Regent of Cuba — Fleet Reaches Florida — Reconnoitering — Juan Ortiz — Reputed Gold Fields— The "Lady of the Countree" — A Hostage — Disappointments — Discontent — De Soto Hopeful —The Mississippi Reached — Rio Grande — Crossed on Rafts — No Gold Found— De Soto Despondent — Health Under- mined—His Death — Buried in the River — Band Disorgan- ized 62 CHAPTER V. MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. Father Marquette — His Birth — Sails for Canada. Arrives at Quebec— Studies Indian Languages — Ordered to Lake Superior— Ste. Marie du Sault— Michilimackinac— Policy of the French— Louis Joliet— Meets La Salle — The Un- known River — Lake Michigan — Allouez and Dablon — The Miss ; ssippi — Hostile Natives — Indian Village — The Manitous— Missouri River— Ohio River— Mosquitoes- Descending the Mississippi — Progress Arrested — Resolve to CONTENTS. Id Return — Ascend the Illinois — Joliet Leaves Marquette— Goes to Quebec — Loses All His Papers — Makes His Report from Memory — Anticosti — Royal Pilot — Dies — Buried in Labrador— Marquette Dies in Michigan — A Herald of Western Civilization 74 CHAPTER VI. ROBERT CAVELIER DE LA SALLE. Birth — Sails for Canada — Great Schemes — Father Dollier — Expedition Starts— Joliet and Pere* — Discovery of the Ohio— Returns to France — King Louis — Returns to Can- ada — Fort Frontenac — Again Visits France — Minister Col- bert — Returns to Canada — De Tonty — Plans — Misfortune —Jealous Enemies— The " Griffin "—Fresh Troubles— Iroquois — Exploration on Mississippi — Creive-Cceur — Plans Defeated— Father Hennepin 97 CHAPTER VII. LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. La Salle Returns to Canada — More Disaster — Starts Out Again- -Fresh Supplies— Reverses— Indian Vengeance— The Great River — Meets Tonty — Attack by Iroquois — Chicago River — Tamaroas — Prudhomme Lost — Nearing the Gulf— The Natchez Tribe— Father Membre*— The Open Sea— La Salle Takes Formal Possession — Louisiana — Fight with Indians — La Salle Falls 111 — Recovers — Prepares to Return to Quebec — His Plans — Disappointment — Returns to France HI CHAPTER VIII. LAST VOYAGE AND DEATH OF LA SALLE. King Louis Listens to La Salle— Twenty Vessels Sail for Canada— Misunderstanding — Reach the Gulf — Misfortune Presaged— General Discontent — A Faithless Captain — Fort Saint Louis — La Salle Undaunted — Christmas Approached —La Salle's Nephew— His Death Determined On— Also That of La Salle— Assassination of La Salle— Body Left to 14 CONTENTS • the Beasts of Prey — All iu Confusion — Villainy Avenged— Duhaut Killed — La Salle's Venture Entirely Defeated — The Greatest of Explorers. 126 CHAPTER IX. FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN. Goes to Canada as a Missionary — Fellow-Passenger with La Salle — Ordered to Fort Frontenac — Joins La Salle — A Doubtful Narrative of Adventures — Proceeds Up the Mis- sissippi — Discovers Saint Anthony Falls — Attacked by Sioux — Captured — Life Threatened — Diplomacy — His Prayers — Held a Captive— Learns the Sioux Language- Descends the River — Returns to the Sioux Village— Leaves for Canada — Sails for France — Publishes His Journal — Much Criticised by Cotemporaries 148 CHAPTER X. LA HONTAN — CHARLEVOIX — CARVER. La Hontan Visits the Mississippi — The "Long River" — Much Criticised — Nicollet Defends Him — Cannon River — Descends the Mississippi — Discoveries — Charlevoix Com- missioned by French Government — New France — Quebec — Proceeds Westward —The Mississippi — Beautiful Scen- ery — New Orleans — Returns to Europe — "History of New France "—Captain Jonathan Carver — Leaves Boston — A Northwest Passage — Reaches the Mississippi — Ascends the River — Surprised by L dians — Lake Pepin — Ancient Re- mains — Saint Anthony Falls — Carver River — Sioux Vil- lage—Becomes a Chief — Great Storm — Indians Terrified — Carver's Courage — Carver's Cave — Indian Council— Gift of Land — Saint Croix River — Lake Superior — Journeys East ward — Sails for England — Reporis to Government — Re- verses Overtake Him— Dies, Aged 48 161 CONTENTS. 15 CHAPTER I. EXPEDITIONS OF LIEUTENANT PIKE. Enters the Army — Ordered on Exploration — Headwaters of the Mississippi— Twenty M( n under His Command— Leaves Saint Louis — Ascends the River — Disadvantages — Winter Overtakes Him — Much Suffering — Travels on Snow-shoes — Sandy Lake — Leech Lake — Cass Lake — Mantle of Snow — Meets Fur Traders — Hospitably Received — Explains His Object — Turtle Lake — Returns to Saint Louis— His Narra- tive—Second Expedition— Rocky Mountains — Pike's. Peak — Rio Grande — Taken Prisoner by Spaniards — Ordered to Leave Their Territory — Reports to His Government — Pro- moted — Expedition Against York, Canada — Magazine Ex- plodes—Fatally Injured and Dies— A Zealous Officer. 175 CHAPTER II. THE CASS EXPEDITION. War of 1812 — Cass Joins the Forces as Colonel — General Hull — Cross s the Detroit River — Hull Surrenders to the Enemy— Cass Goes to Washington on Parole — Promoted — Appointed Governor of Michigan Territory — Treats with the Indians — Suggests an Expedition to the Northwest — Schoolcraft — Headwaters of Mississippi — Upper Cedar Lake — Secretary of War — Black Hawk War — Minister to France — U. S. Senator — Candidate for President — Secre- tary of State — A Scholar of Fine Attainments — Wrote Several Works — Dies at Detroit, Aged 84. ... 180 CHAPTER III. BELTRAMI AND THE " JULIAN SOURCE." Native of Venice— Educated for the Law — Appointed Judge —Extraordinary Energy and Capacity — The Carbonari — 16 CONTENTS. Ordered into Exile — Travels through Europe — Visits the United States — Turns to Exploration — Valley of the Missis- sippi — Talioferra — Embarks for Fort Snelling — Will Seek the Source of the Mississippi — Major Long's Expedition — Beltrami Offers to Accompany Him — Attempts Made to Dissuade Him — Determines to Go — Restless and Adventur- ous — The Expedition Leaves Fort Snelling — The Saint Peter — A Curious Contrast — Lake Traverse — Red River — Pembina — Dissatisfied — Leaves Pembina — Two Chippewas and an Interpreter — Kills Two White Bears — Interpreter Leaves Beltrami — Also the Two Indians — Great Portage River — Source of Red River of the North — Highest Land of North America — Sources of the Mississippi — Lake Julia — Beltrami in Error — La Biche Lake — Visits New Orleans — Mexico — Philadelphia — Returns to Europe— Dies in Italy, Aged 75 185 CHAPTER IV. SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA. Native of New York — Middlebury College — Visits the Missis- sippi Valley — Geological Investigations — Mines and Min- erals of Missouri— Goes to Washington— President Mon- roe — Calhoun Offers Schoolcraft a Position as Geologist to Cass Expedition — Embarks at Detroit — The Mississippi — " Cassina "—Again Commissioned— Upper Mississippi- Sioux and Chippewas — Sandy Lake Council — Visits Cass Lake— In Search of the Source of the Great River — Ozawindib— Schoolcraft Island — William Morrison — Lake Itasca — Crow Wing River — Indian Council— Appointed Indian Agent — The Six Nations— Married to an Indian- Second Marriage— Author of Several Works— Visits Europe —Dies in Washington, Aged 71 197 CHAPTER V. INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET. Native of Savoy, France —Enters College— Professor of Mathe- matics—Legion of Honor — Ruined Financially— Comes to America— Explores the Mississippi — Baltimore— Sum- CONTENTS. 17 moned to Washington — To Explore Headwaters of Missis- sippi — Prehistoric Relics — Pipe-Stone Quarry — Cannon River— His Indian Guide— Red River — Crow Wing- Leech Lake— Flat- Mouth— Lake Itasca— Nicollet Creek- Lake Bemidji— Cass Lake — Returns to Leech Lake- Entertained by Flat-Mouth— 111 Health— Dies at Washing- ton ' 208 CHAPTER VI. EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LAMADf. Leaves Saint Louis in 1840 — An Excursion — History and Tra- dition — Lake Pepin — Legends and Romance — "Winona" — Red Wing — Saint Peter River — Sioux and Dakotas — A Dog-feast — Saint Anthony Falls— Crow Wing River — A Wolf Killed — Chased by Wolves — Crow Wing Village —William Morrison— The White Panther— Chief Ilole-in- the-day — Indian Traders — Lake Winnebegoshish — Bear Hunt — Cass Lake — The Chippewa Nation .... 218 Uart ®tjirfr* CHAPTER I. RECENT EXPLORATIONS. Lake Itasca — Schoolcraft — Nicollet — Lake Beyond Itasca — Primal Reservoir — Misrepresentations — Further Investiga- tion — Partisan Opposition — Antagonism to Geographical Truth— Error of Schoolcraft 233 CHAPTER II. JOURNEY TO MINNESOTA. A. Second Expedition — Leave Milwaukee — Through Wiscon- sin — The Dalles — The Mississippi— King of American Rivers— La Crosse— Origin of Name— Nathan Myrick— 2 18 CONTENTS. Growth of La Crosse — Immense Advantages — Population —Minnesota— Wi. ona— The Republican — D. Sinclair — Growth of Winona— A Beautiful City— Commercial Im- portance — Enterprise 237 CHAPTER III. WINONA TO MINNEAPOLIS. Route — A Contrast — Different Modes of Traveling — Canoe- ing — Wabasha — Pepin — Lake of Tears — Le Sueur — Carver — Lake City — Picturesque Scenery — Maiden Rock — Red Wing — Swiss Missionaries — Population — Hastings— Saint Croix River — Saint Paul. 246 CHAPTER IV. EARLY HISTORY OF MINNESOTA. Fifty Years Ago — A Wilderness — Indians — Pioneer Times — Father Menard — Carver's Treaties — Elected Chief — Pike, Cass, Beltrami — Schoolcraft — Nicollet — Fremont — Long — Keating — Explorers of Minnesota — Hennepin — Renville — Provencalle — Morrison — Faribault — Morrison and Lake Itasca— Minnesota Territory — Governor Ramsey — General Sibley — Great Natural Resources 257 CHAPTER V. THE "TWIN CITIES." Saint Paul and Minneapolis — Phenomenal Growth — First Building in Saint Paul — The Jesuits — A Log Chapel — Dedicated to the Apostle Paul — The Capital— Population 1849, 1854, 1856, 1880, 1890— Location— Five Bridges- Head of Navigation — Well-built City — Large Trade — State Capitol — Institutions of Learning — Religion and Education — The Press — Resorts — Carver's Cave — White Bear Lake — Smaller Lakes — Minneapolis — Saint Anthony — Colonel J. H. Stevens — Suspension Bridge — Saint Anthony Falls— A Tragic Story— Lumber Businrss— Great Flour Mills— Beautiful Residences— University— Athen- CONTENTS. 19 8eum — The Press — Resorts — Healthful Climate — Minne- haha — Lake Minnetonka 265 CHAPTER VI. PREPARATION FOR SECOND EXPEDITION. Members of Expedition — Route to the Headwaters — Press Comments — Saint Paul Dispatch — Globe — Northwestern Presbyterian — Red Wing Argus — Albany Knickerbocker — Dubuque Trade Journal — Boston Herald — Philadelphia Times — Geographical News 297 CHAPTER VII. MINNEAPOLIS TO PARK RAPIDS. Leave Minneapolis — Saint Cloud — Brainerd— New Englanders — Pine Park — Sanitarium — Y. M. C. A. — Miss Grandel- meyer— Lake Itasca — Turtle Lake — Dr. Seal — Chenowage- sic — Judge Holland — Dr. Rosser — Cap!ain Seelye — George S. Canfield— Wadena— Park Rapids— Henry R. Cobb— E. M. Horton— Shell Prairies 315 CHAPTER VIII. THROUGH THE WILDERNESS. C. D. Cutting and Son — Surveyors Horton and Keay — Adams and Son — Delezene — Equipment — "Jerry" — Start from Park Rapids— Virgin Forest — Dinner Creek — Fording — "Morrison River" — Camp Munsell — Mule Lake— Shooting a Bear — A Correspondent — Height of Land — Lake Gamble — Bear Creek — View of Lake Itasca — Embark for School- craft Island 326 CHAPTER IX. HEADWATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI. Camp Shure— Nicollet Creek— Bogs and Ponds— Dead Lakes — Hauteur de Terre — Infant Mississippi — Pokegama — Primal Reservoir — Schoolcraft — His Narrative Quoted — Poem— One Hour on the Island — Passed out of the Lake- Nicollet— Coasted Itasca— Nicollet Creek— Floating Bog — Government Survey — Hopewell Clarke .... 339 20 CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. JOURNAL OF THE EXPEDITION. Field Notes — Permanent Headquarters — Camp Trost — Trolling — Nicollet Creek — Exaggeration— Lake Glazier — Appear- ance of the Lake — Coasting Itasca — Affluents — Eagle's Nest — Excelsior Creek — Harriet Promontory — Deer Tracks — A Cascade — Variety of Trees — " Hernando de Soto" Lake — Character Overdrawn — A Dead Lake — A Pleasing Inci- dent — Moses Lagard — Horton Creek — Lake Alice — Meas- urements — Stars and Stripes — Investigations Ended — A Few Remarks — Record of the Expedition — Surveyors' Report — Botany of the Region — Salute the Flag — Sunday Divine Service — First Sermon at the Source. . . . 354 CHAPTER XL RETURN TO MINNEAPOLIS. Tablets Erected — Tents Struck— Preparations for Departure- Return Journey — Camp Horton — Red Squirrels— Crane Lake — Morrison River — Fording the Stream — Shell Prai- ries — Park Rapids — Central House — Dr. Winship — A Heavy Storm — Discomfort — Senior Member of the Expedition — Lagard Leaves the Party — Messrs. Horton and Keay — Leave for Wadena — Merchants' Hotel — J. E. Reynolds — Little Falls— "The Antlers" — Mayor Richardson — Com- rade Sutton — Arrive in Minneapolis — A Joint Report — Members of the Expedition Return to Their Homes. 381 CHAPTER XII. INDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION. True Source Unanimously Indorsed — Gratuitous Assertions of Opponents — Corroborative Testimony — Surveyor Horton : Measured All Affluents of Lakes Itasca and Glazier — Excel- sior Creek — Lake Glazier — The Source of the River. Assistant Surveyor Keay: Perfectly Familiar with the Region — Lake Glazier the Primal Reservoir. Dr. A. Mun- sell: Agrees with All the Members of Expedition — Lake Glazier is the True Source. J. C. Crane: Personal Inves- CONTENTS. 21 ligation — Traced and Measured all Feeders — Lake Glazier is the True Source. D. S. Knowlton: Lake South of Itasca is the Veritable Source — Geographers Justified in Recog- nizing It. Charles E. Harrison: Captain Glazier's Claim Fully Justified. Henry R. Cobb: Lake Glazier the Largest Body of Water having Connection with Mississippi through Itasca. Fred. J. Trost: Perfectly Certain Lake Glazier is the True Source. Albert W. Whitney: Lake Glazier Fulfills All Conditions Necessary for the Real Source. W. S. Shure: Explored All the Region— Lake Glazier is the Source. Conclusion — Claim of the Author — Adverse Statements Can Not be Substantiated — The Author's Posi- tion Same as Schoolcraft's — Conclusions of Second Expedi- tion Incontrovertible 396 2te>psptote* First Glazier Expedition — His Claim — Material for Considera- tion — Ten Years of Controversy — Reasons for the Expedi- tion — Source Still in Doubt — Companions — Reach Brainerd — Conveyance to Leech Lake — Indian Agency — Major Ruffee — Chenowagesic — Kabekanka River — Lake Garfield — A Portage — Lakes Bayard, Stoneman, Pleasanton, Custer, and Kilpatrick — Portages — Lakes Gregg, Davies, and Sher- idan — Lakes George and Paine — River Naiwa — Lake Elvira — De Soto River — Lake Itasca and Schoolcraft Island — Omushkos — Coasting Itasca — Six Small Feeders — Dis- covery of the Source — Its Affluents — Error of Schoolcraft — Pokegama — Lake Glazier — Elk Lake — Infant Mississippi — Results of First Expedition — Schoolcraft and Nicollet — Nicollet Creek — Critics and Cavilers — Correspondence Relating to First Expedition — Voice of the Press — Cor- respondence Previous to Second Expedition — After the Return— Editorial Comment— Indorsements of the Glazier Claim 405 ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. Portrait of the Author, - . . . . Frontispiece. Early Explorers of the Mississippi, .... 24 De Vaca Crossing the Continent, 83 Shipwreck of De Vaca, 36 Hernando De Soto, - 40 The Inca Receiving De Soto, 55 Burial of De Soto at Midnight, 71 Juan Ortiz, the Indian Captive, 73 Marquette and Joliet Descending the Mississippi, - - 85 Early Map of the Illinois, 106 La Salle Taking Possession of the Valley of the Mississippi, 121 Erecting Cross at an Indian Village, - 125 Assassination of La Salle, 144 Building of Fort Saint Louis, 147 Hennepin at the Falls of Saint Anthony, - - - 154 Father Hennepin at His Devotions, - - - - - 160 Carver and the Thunder-storm, - - - - - 168 Explorers of the Upper Mississippi, - - - 172 Winter Quarters on the Upper Mississippi, - - 174 Pike Exploring on Snow-shoes, - - - - - 177 Cass Expedition Leaving Detroit, .... 183 Beltrami Surprised by Indians, - 193 Southern End of Lake Itasca, 203 Schoolcraft Island, 207 Nicollet at Lake Itasca, 215 A Glimpse of the Red River, - - - - - 217 Lanman Pursued by Wolves, ..... 222 Bear Hunting, - - - - 229 Map of the Upper Mississippi, - 232 Shooting Rapids, 236 Dalles of the Wisconsin, 240 View of Maiden Rock — Lake Pepin, - 252 Saint Paul in 1841, -------- 264 View of Saint Paul id 1891, - --.'.- - - 267 White Bear Lake, -------- 277 Falls of Minnehaha, ....... 287 (22) ILLUSTRATIONS. 23 PAGE Lake Minnetonka, - - 294 View of Minneapolis in 1891, 296 Members of Second Glazier Expedition, - - - . 303 In Pine Park, Brainerd, 814 Log-boom on the Upper Mississippi, - - - - 316 The Mississippi at Brainerd, 318 Burial of Chenowagesic, 321 Main Street, Wadena, 323 Waiting for the Train, Wadena, - - - - - 325 View of Park Rapids, - 327 Starting from Park Rapids, 330 Bruin at Bay, 335 Map of the Headwaters, ------- 340 Mouth of the Infant Mississippi, - - - - - 343 Maps of Schoolcraft and Nicollet, ----- 349 Nightfall at Our Encampment, 353 Lake Glazier, - • - - - - - - 355 Eagle's Nest, ...---.. 357 Mouth of Excelsior Creek, ------ 359 Caught in Lake Glazier, ------ 361 On an Indian Trail at the Headwaters, - 363 Strange Meeting in the Wilderness, -.-.-.- 365 Outlet of Lake Glazier, ------- 367 Lake Alice, - - - 369 Glen Alice, - - - - - - - - - 371 First Sermon at the Source of the Mississippi, - - 373 A Talk on the Promontory, 375 Lake Crane, - - - - - - - 380 Expedition Fording a Stream, 384 An Abandoned Claim, 386 A Frontier Bank, 388 The Menahga House, - 391 Merchants' Hotel and Park, Wadena, .... 393 First Glazier Expedition at the Source of the Mississippi, 404 APPENDIX. Map of Lake Glazier and its Feeders, .... 408 Lake Garfield, 433 Lake Sheridan, - - - - - - • - - 456 Bird's-eye View of Lake Glazier, .... 507 -— — — — — — — — — - — — ~l _~____-_>_______ — , , Charlevoix. DfATH OF MARQUETTE EARLY EXPLORERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI. (24) CHAPTER I. ALVAR NUNEZ CABEgA DE VACA. HE position which this early explorer holds among his contemporaries is very important, so far as the narrative of his travels in the New World is con- cerned, bnt historians differ widely in their estimation of what is due him as a discoverer, and will probably never be able to settle satisfactorily the question as to whether or not he was the first European to see the Mississippi. In the confusing mazes of opinion, which are really all that are to be consulted in regard to the earliest discoveries of the Great River, there have been some suggestions of an expedition as early as 1519, under Don Alonzo Alvarez Pineda, an officer in the service of the Governor of Jamaica; justified by the Spanish historian Navarrete, who writes that Pineda discov- ered the Mississippi at that time, and named it " Rio del Espirito Santo," being influenced to undertake this exploration by the universal enthusiasm excited by the conquest of Mexico by Cortez. The aim and object of those who, like De Vaca, penetrated the wildernesses of North America was ostensibly to search out the reputed mines of gold and silver, rather than to explore the unknown regions for the enlightenment of their countrymen and the (25) 26 : / : * ■ • kA^iLr/Ex^LORERs. advancement of science; so that the recitals of their journey ings were more the detailed accounts of the obstacles which confronted them, and the hardships which they passed through in pursuit of the coveted treasure, than careful reports of geographical re- search. It is this vagueness of description in De Vaca's nar- rative which has caused so much speculation among those interested in the history of our Great Central River, and which has baffled those who wish to do jus- tice to its discoverer. If he crossed the Rio Grande of the later Spaniards, he has given no evidence that would distinguish it from the other rivers of the South, and which would place him unquestionably among the great explorers. On the other hand, those who follow De Soto in his march through the wilder- ness can not doubt that he and his companions saw the Mississippi, or that the disappointed cavalier met death upon its shores. It is therefore to him that historians generally give the contested honor. The purpose of these pages is not, however, to advance any personal theories, or to assume the championship of those who have long since passed away, and whose claims could only be considered through uncertain and intricate hypotheses, but only to give a brief account of their lives, as bearing more or less directly upon the history of the Great River. De Vaca first comes into prominence as the lieuten- ant of Panfilo de Narvaez in the expedition organized for the conquest and colonization of "the whole northern coast of the Gulf "; an enterprise suggested strangely enough by the personal pique of the com- mander, who, having failed in his raid upon Cortez, in Mexico, as the lieutenant of the jealous Velasquez, CABECA DE VACA. 27 wished to redeem his somewhat tarnished record by glorious action in a new field. Appealing to the Em- peror Charles V., he obtained a commission to invade the country and to assume the title of Adelantado of those lands which he should discover within the lim- its of what was then known as Florida — a large area embracing the present division and extending for an almost indefinite distance toward the northwest. Thus encouraged by the crown, he sailed from San Lucar on the seventeenth of June, 1527, with a com- pany of six hundred, and a fleet of five vessels. At Hispaniola, where a six-weeks'' halt was made to fur- ther prepare for the journey, more than a hundred of the volunteers abandoned the expedition; while at Trinidad, whither two vessels had been sent, in charge of De Vaca and Captain Pantoja, to obtain provisions, both crews perished in a violent storm, those only escaping who had gone ashore. Without having sighted the coast of Florida, Narvaez had thus lost a sixth of his men. Soon overtaking the shipwrecked party, he estab- lished winter quarters at Xagua, twelves leagues be- yond, where in February he joined the expedition with reinforcements, and arranged for the final voyage. The Land of Flowers, through which Ponce de Leon had traveled in search of fabled treasures and the magical Fountain of Youth, was still hidden beyond the blue waters of the Gulf, and the shadow of coming misfortunes, which superstition hinted at, found no place among the eager adventurers. On the eleventh of April Florida was reached, and a landing made just north of Tampa Bay, where the colors of Spain were unfurled and the soil solemnly appropriated in the name of Charles V. It had been 28 EARLY EXPLORERS. the intention to enter the larger hay to the south, but through a miscalculation of the pilot, Miruelo, the ships had passed it, and the destiny of the expedition became thus entirely changed. Narvaez and his officers now anticipated a tri- umphal march through a country which they had peopled with a race far superior to the Mexicans or Peruvians; whose towns were to be rich in the wealth of precious metals, and whose inhabitant?, milder than the South Americans, would offer them no resistance; a country whose limits they believed inclosed an empire greater than Montezuma's, and within whose confines were to be found splendors yet undreamed of. Their illusions were soon dispelled. Advancing upon an Indian village, whose cabins could be seen at the head of the little bay in which the ships were anchored, they were fearlessly met by the natives, whose temerity somewhat surprised them. After a friendly reception they were requested by unmistak- able signs to leave, and the firmness of the Indians so impressed Narvaez — who, although a man of unques- tioned courage, was lacking in decision — that he called a consultation of his principal officers to determine upon the wisest course. They concluded to follow the coast by land in search of the bay which they had at- tempted to reach — the Espirito Santo of De Soto's later expedition — the ships to take a similar course and meet them at that point. De Vaca was strongly opposed to this plan, but his companions were thoroughly weary of the sea, and were eager to seek their for- tunes on terra firma. Had they been more famil- iar with the country, the enterprise would not have terminated so disastrously; for exploring parties, CABEQA DE VACA. 29 sent out at the beginning of the march, found the bay they were in search of, and, failing to recognize it, believed they had been unsuccessful; while another party, meeting Indians who wore golden ornaments, were told by them of a place to the north, which they called " Abalachie," where the metal could be found. By following this direction they would have undoubt- edly reached the mines of Upper Georgia, which would have amply satisfied them; but instead they entered Appalachee toward the south, where they found nothing but poor villages and no sign of the coveted treasure. From the old narratives, full as they are of exag- gerations, we catch a glimpse of a magnificent type of the Indian here; living in wretched huts in the most primitive way, and totally lacking in those graces with which the imaginative Spaniards had clothed them, yet none the less admirable, and pos- sessed of courage, intelligence, and a certain physical elegance. After spending more than three weeks with these Appalachians, who were described as men of gigantic proportions, the company made preparations to move on toward Haute, where they were told they would find an abundance of food, and a very rich region. If Niirvaez had been enterprising enough at this point to verify the statements of the Indians, which were made chiefly to induce him and his men to leave their village, he would have found a broad expanse of fertile and populous country all about him; but, lacking in those active and daring qualities which have ever characterized the successful explorer, he was easily led by the cunning natives and persuaded that the "good lands" lay beyond. 30 EAKLY EXPLORERS. At Haute, as at Appalachee, the Spaniards met only disappointment, for the inhabitants, learning of their approach, had abandoned and burned their homes and made away with their provisions. It was as though some enchantment preceded them to de- stroy the villages and to lay waste the fields. They were harassed on every side by hostile natives, w 7 ho watched for them whenever they ventured beyond camp, and who sent showers of arrows into their ranks on the march; until at last, worn out with hunger, sickness, and fatigue, and thoroughly dis- couraged, their only desire was to escape. The ships had not been heard from, and were supposed to have returned to Havana, but De Vaca, with Captains Cas- tillo and Dorantes and an escort of fifty foot soldiers, went to the Gulf, which was about a day's journey away, to see if there might be a sail in sight. The broad expanse betrayed no sign, and they were obliged to return with the disheartening news. A council was then called and a plan discussed which only hopeless men could have determined upon. Immc diately the forest was converted into a ship-yard, where two hundred and forty men worked with the energy of despair. Within six weeks they had com- pleted a fleet of five boats out of whatever materials were available, and by the twenty-second of Septem- ber, 1528, were ready* to embark. "Narvaez com- manded the first boat; the second was in charge of Enriquez, the controller, and Juan Suarez, the com- missary; in the third went Captains Castillo and Dorantes; in the fourth, Captains Tellez and Penalosa, and in the fifth, Cabega de Vaca — each boat carrying about forty-eight men." As it would have been disastrous to remain longer CABECA DE YACA. 31 on shore, where provisions were becoming more scarce, where their lives were continually exposed to the attacks of the Indians, and where the miasma of the swamps began to breed a deadly fever, these two hundred and forty half -starved and disappointed men immediately put to sea, which was dangerous for loosely constructed craft at any season, but doubly so during the autumn months. They took a westerly course along the coast, with the idea of reaching the River of Palms and the Spanish settlements in Mex- ico — which on the maps of the time had been inaccu- rately placed — believing they would be less exposed than by striking out across the Gulf; but notwith- standing this caution the company was destined to destruction, and misfortune met it on every hand. Narvaez, separated from his crew, which had gone ashore, was swept out to sea in a violent storm and never seen again. De Vaea's party, and those of Cas- tillo and Dorantes, were shipwrecked upon the Island of Santa Rosa, where nearly all perished ; while those who were with Enriquez and Juan Suarez suffered the most terrible privations and at last they too mis- erably perished. The ninety six men in the boats commanded by Captains Tellez and Penalosa, going ashore near Pass Christian for water and provisions, were killed by the natives, who could easily overcome them, so weak had they become bodily and in numbers. There were now only four survivors of that great expedition which a short time before had left the Bay of the True Cross believing their arms irresistible and their success- assured; these were De Vaca, Castillo, Dorantes, and the Moor Estevanico. Through the inevitable changes of a life among a strange and half- 32 EARLY EXPLORERS. savage people, this little company soon became sepa- rated and its members subjected to a kind of servi- tude. For six years De Vaca stayed among the coast tribes, carrying on a system of trade with the Indians of the interior, and becoming familiar with their language and customs, until at last he was able to communicate with his companions with whom he hoped to reach the Spanish settlements in Mexico. This plan was, strangely enough, promoted by the Indians, who began to hold the white men in super- stitious awe, calling them " medicine men," and believing them endowed with supernatural powers. De Vaca, with amusing frankness, describes his modus operandi, which was to say a paternoster and an ave maria over the patient; and he mentions the generosity of the Indians, who, after "treatment," often gave the great "medicines" all they possessed, and accompanied them in a kind of triumphal pro- cession from place to place. In this way they pene- trated the Western Wilderness, " traversing the bison plains and the adobe towns of the half-civilized natives of New Mexico, perched on their rocky heights," and crossing the rugged and magnificent passes of the Rockies. Mr. John O'Shea, who has made a careful study of the subject, in his "Discovery and Explorations of the Mississippi," says: "In this long wandering he (De Vaca) must have reached and crossed the Missis- sippi, but we in vain examine his narrative for some- thing to distinguish it from any other large river that he met." In fact, it is entirely through conjecture that De Vaca is given the benefit of a doubt. By some unexplained circumstance, he and his compan- ions may have entirely failed to cross the stream, and 34 EARLY EXPLORERS. again, he may have been, as Mr. O'Shea adds, " the first European who ( launched his boat upon its waters."* Upon coming to a large stream, to the westward, the last in that lonely journey across the country, De Vaca and his companions met a party of Indians, from whom they learned that white men had recently been seen near there, both on the water and on horse- back, and traces of their late passage were soon dis- covered. In a short time they were overtaken, and found to be a band of Spaniards from a Mexican colony. The meeting was a strange one, and the four wanderers were greeted as those returned from the dead. Clothed in the rough dress of the natives, which long association had thrust upon them; changed by contact with their peculiar life, and bronzed by expos- ure to wind and sun, their appearance produced a singular effect upon their countrymen, none the less heightened by a mysterious air, which had been capri- ciously assumed. They had explored the wonders of a new land, and had visited unknown peoples — what wonder, then, that they should entertain their un- questioning friends with tales of adventure, the more fascinating because the more highly colored? The Spaniards, with their natural love of the marvelous, listened spellbound while De Vaca related the experiences which he and his fellow-travelers had passed through, regarding them with iringled curios- ity and admiration. They were received " with the greatest sympathy by the Spanish authorities in Mexico/' and, having all their wants supplied, were soon enabled to return to their native land, where their recitals awakened even deeper interest and enthusiasm. CABECA DE VACA. 35 Estevanico, the Moor, preferred to remain in Mex- ico, where he became the guide of Francisco Narco de Nizza, and ultimately perished at the hands of the Indians, who suspected him of treachery, because he announced himself as the emissary of the white people. De Vaca reached Havana on the fourth of May, remaining there a month to await the arrival of the two other vessels, on which Castillo and Dorantes had taken passage; then, eager to return to Spain, and to confer with his Sovereign upon the things which he had seen, he sailed for Lisbon, which was reached on the fifteenth of August, 1537. It was De Vaca's policy, upon his return, to be non- committal, as he was anxious to privately inform the King of the resources of what he called "the richest country in the world," and to beg the privilege of returning to Florida in the service of his country; but Charles, with royal partiality, was listening to the requests of his more influential subjects, and De Vaca was obliged to content himself with the title of Adelantado of the province of Rio de la Plata, a commission requiring active duty and some danger. While discharging the functions of this office, he became involved in a quarrel with one of his country- men, whose jealousy he had excited, which ultimately resulted in his arrest and dismissal. Eight years of exile in Africa followed, which, to one long accus- tomed to the privations of a strange country and possessed of a strong love of adventure, must have had its compensations. Upon his recall in 1552 he was given a judgeship in Seville, where he died in 1564. 36 EARLY EXPLORERS. The story of his life, from beginning to end, is a romance, in which the scenes and people of primitive America are invested with the charm of history's "distant twilight," into whose shadows many a stu- dent has ventured in the cause of truth. Among these, several have become convinced, from their own researches, that the honor of the discovery of the Mis- sissippi rightfully belongs to the brave lieutenant of Panfilo Narvaez; and George Fairbanks, in his "His- tory of Florida," even pays him the tribute of saying that "upon some high bluff of that wondrous stream should be placed a monument " to this European who first visited its shores. Whether or not future investigation will uncrown the old hero De Soto for one who may have unjustly remained unrecognized is a question which only time can answer; but whoever the claimant, we are ready to say: " Honor to whom honor is due." #"'_;•' •r'-.-SHIPWRECROPD.EVACA." CHAPTER II. HERNANDO DE SOTO. HE discovery of the Mississippi is very generally ascribed to Hernando De Soto, who, in his adventurous march in pursuit of gold and glory, reached the Great River in April, 1541, near the site of the present city of Natchez. In the opinion of most historians no white man's eye had ever before beheld that flood whose banks are now inhabited by busy millions, and in following the achievements of its discoverer, we find it filled with new interest. From the cold springs that rise in the northern wilderness, to the great torrent that mingles with the tropical Gulf three thousand miles below, the Spaniard who lies buried beneath its waters still claims an undying tribute. His ambitious march westward, through treacherous swamps and over flower-dotted prairies, in pursuit of the fabled El Dorado; the desperate encounters with Indians, who at every turn tried to resist the advance of his steel- clad band; the delays and disappointments, and the ultimate shattering of their " castles in Spain/' all form a narrative romantic and fascinating as one of the enchantments of the Arabian Nights. Indeed, were it not that the contemporaneous accounts tally so nearly, we of a later day would be inclined to (37> 38 EARLY EXPLORERS. accept the adventures of these helmeted cavaliers with much less allowance. So closely is the life of De Soto identified with the history of exploration in the Valley of the Mississippi, and so brilliant a touch has his presence added to its early annals, that any sketch of the Great Eiver with- out mention of him would lose its most attractive feature. He was born in the little walled town of Xeres, in the province of Estramadura, Southern Spain, in the year 1500, just at the threshold of the new century, destined to be one of the brightest in the annals of the Old World, and one of the most significant in the history of the New. The ancestral castle in which he first saw light, once the scene of wealth and magnificence, had become, through re- peated misfortunes to his family, only the dilapidated abode of a haughty race, and Hernando found him- self, like many another young Spaniard of his time, the heir of poverty and pride. His early surround- ings, and the enforced idleness which peculiar cir- cumstances pressed upon him, no doubt greatly influenced his after career. His father was unable to give him the advantages which were accessible to the sons of richer noblemen, and custom forbade that the family fortunes should be retrieved by work; so the bright boy passed his childhood in comparative idle- ness, indulging at his will in the out-of-door sports, for which he had a great fondness, and visiting occasionally the neighboring monasteries, wiiere he probably received the religious bent that afterward proved such a strong force in his character. While a mere lad, De Soto came under the notice of Don Pedro de Avila, Count of Pufio en Eostro, and this wealthy nobleman, impressed by the manly HERNANDO DE SOTO. 39 bearing of the boy, and his personal attractiveness, be- came his patron, and offered him all the privileges of an own son. He was sent to one of the leading Spanish universities — probably that of Saragossa — where his skill in fencing and horsemanship was perfected, and where he received the further training that fitted him for subsequent events. He was prominent at the tournaments, and always excited the envy of com- petitive cavaliers in these exhibitions of martial prowess. In the intervals between the university terms, Don Pedro's protege found a welcome in his foster-father's home, where he became a great favorite; and so sure was the confidence which his friend reposed in him, that when the former was appointed Governor of Darien, he asked De Soto to remain with his family in the castle near Badajoz. Here, during Don Pedro's absence, De Soto formed a strong attachment for the Governor's second daughter, Isabella, a beautiful girl of sixteen, who, in accordance with the custom of her country and station, had already been presented at court and received many flattering attentions. Yet, notwithstanding the attractions of her more eligible suitors, Donna Isabella showed a partial pref- erence for her poor cavalier, and in time the mutual sentiment was sealed by a betrothal. The Wo were constantly thrown together, and being congenial in tastes passed many happy days in their common home. At this time young De Soto possessed all the charms of mind and person that would win for him the admiration of his associates. He was tall and erect, with the perfect grace that is acquired by familiarity with athletic exercise; his features were handsome, and suited his well-poised head; his bearing was HERNANDO DE SOTO. (40) HERNANDO DE SOTO. 41 dignified, and his character without reproach. It can not be wondered at, therefore, that two such attractive beings should have been drawn together, or that they should have become an example of love and devotion for centuries afterward. Upon the return of Don Pedro from Darien five years later, to arrange his private affairs preparatory to a more prolonged sojourn in the New World, his daughter's betrothal was made known to him. At first he was disposed to ridicule the affair; but upon being persuaded by Isabella's governess that the girl returned the affection, and that she had declared, if her wish were opposed, she would enter a convent, the matter became more serious, and finally took such an offensive aspect that the count was beside himself with vexation. He was the more disturbed from the fact that a short time before Isabella had been sought in marriage by one of the nobility — a young man near of kin to royalty itself; and that his daughter should be indifferent to the bright prospects of such an alliance, and prefer a dependent upon her father's bounty, was more than the haughty noble could endure. He began to treat his former favorite with dislike and even contempt, and, while feigning indif- ference to the situation, formed a scheme for the separation of the objects of his displeasure, and tried to prevent their further intercourse. Being possessed of an extremely sensitive nature, De Soto felt keenly the rebuke of his benefactor. He could boast of an ancestry as ancient and honor- able as that of Don Pedro, and by the rules of Span- ish heraldry "was entitled to admission into the noble order of Santiago." He therefore resented the marked discourtesy shown him, and determined to 42 EARLY EXPLORERS. break down the mock barrier which had been raised against him, by becoming rich. Accordingly, when Don Pedro, with every pretension of friendship, invited Hernando to accompany him upon his second voyage to the New World, with the promise of a captaincy, and suggestions of the fabled wealth of America, the offer was gladly accepted. The young man's parents were dead, and even had they not been, their circumstances would hardly have been such as to allow them to lend their son any assistance; besides, he was without wealthy friends, and this opportunity seemed to promise the fulfillment of his hopes. Although every precaution had been taken to pre- vent a final meeting of the lovers, the watchers were evaded, and Hernando and Isabella met again to renew their pledge and to say farewell. They talked long and earnestly of the future, and parted with Isabella's memorable words, "Hernando, remember that one treacherous friend is more dangerous than a thousand avowed enemies." Soon after this interview Don Pedro and his followers embarked at San Lucar, and sailed toward the yet unexplored and attractive con- tinent which had burst upon the vision of Columbus but a short time before, and which had already begun to dazzle the eye of Europe with its magnificent pos- sibilities. In the course of this voyage the wily Governor doubtless perfected his plans for the ruin of his unsuspecting protege, whom he had determined to subject to such trying circumstances that he would be powerless to oppose them. With the cleverness of the arch fiend himself, lie arranged perilous expedi- tions, in which De Soto's life would be more or less exposed, and, presupposing that the young captain HERNANDO BE SOTO. 43 would be gratified by the confidence thus placed in him, congratulated himself upon the outcome. Upon their arrival at Darien, De Soto was given command of a troop of horse, and with these steel- clad followers began the brilliant career which has filled many a page of early history with valiant deeds, and touched them with the fascinating color of romance. The field for daring adventure was most prolific, and wherever the cavalry led, there could be seen the white plume of De Soto. His contempo- raries, however, have not charged him with any of the disgusting crimes of which his brother officers were guilty, and which were often done in obedience to Don Pedro's command. Upon one occasion he refused to obey a distasteful order and sent the Gov- ernor his decided disapproval. This involved him in a duel with one of his most desperate companions, who was sent to him with the message, and whom De Soto took occasion to visit with his scorn; but his old-time training and unerring arm gave him the advantage in the encounter, and he escaped unhurt. A similar instance of his moral courage occurred during Pizarro's raid upon the territories of the Indian Uracca in 1521. That outraged monarch, having suffered beyond endurance from the unprovoked attacks of the Span- iards, at last made preparation to resist them. He gathered about him a force of some twenty thousand warriors, armed with their deadly arrows and wooden swords, and these, under his leadership, started toward the camp of the enemy. Don Pedro, learn- ing of the intended attack, made plans to circumvent the Indians, who were much stronger in numbers, and sending a party under Espinosa by sea, along the 44 EARLY EXPLORERS. western coast of Uracca's dominions, and another by- land under Pizarro, attempted to rout the opposing forces by a surprise. De Soto and his troop joined Pizarro's division. Uracca, with a thousand men, perceiving the approach of Espinosa from the coast, went bravely to the attack, and succeeded in com- pletely demoralizing the Spanish soldiery; but De Soto, having heard the noise of battle from a distance, left his position and hurried with all dispatch to the aid of his distressed countrymen, thus turning the fortunes of the day. The approach to the scene of conflict was through an almost impassable part of the country, cut up by huge rocks and seamed with chasms, and over this difficult way the dauntless captain led his hesitating followers by his own example and by the electrifying war-cry, " Sant Iago to the rescue \" The charge of this unexpected force, and above all the sight of the unfamiliar horses, whose riders were proof against the showers of arrows sent into theii midst, struck terror into their hearts and caused them to retreat to the hills in consternation; but having regained their courage there, they began such a vigorous onslaught upon the Spaniards in the valley below, that those warriors quickly retreated to their ships to avoid the hail of poisoned darts. See- ing this action on the part of their recent conquerors, the Indians ran down from their shelter and renewed the attack. In a moment the quick eye of De Soto saw their movement, and, knowing their fear of horses, ordered his men to face about. This frightened the pursuers, who were now willing to watch the Spaniards from a safe distance. At this point Pizarro and Espinosa met to discuss the HERNANDO DE SOTO. 45 situation, and decided upon retreat. De Soto could not endure such cowardice. He knew that although the numbers of the Spaniards were considerably less than those of the enemy, the latter could never cope with the trained soldiers arrayed against them, and he felt besides, a certain responsibility for his country's glory. He therefore looked upon the cowardly action of his superior officers with ill-concealed disgust, and availed himself of the first opportunity to display his sentiment. This occurred but a short time after- ward when, having abandoned the field, the Spanish forces fell upon a small village farther up the coast and began their murderous work. The men of the village were away, and the pillagers, taking advantage of their absence, undertook to make prisoners of the women and children. This again excited the indignation of De Soto, who informed Espinosa that if his severe measures were not sus- pended, and the captives released, he would withdraw his men and leave him to his fate. Espinosa under- stood the strength of this threat, and considering the consequences, sullenly consented. After this affair, De Soto went to Darien with mes- sages to the Governor, and upon his return found the force at Borrica hemmed in by Uracca's men. By a few masterly sallies he succeeded in dispersing the besiegers, and while engaged in this way was able to save the life of one Micer Codro, who afterward returned the kindness by risking his life for him. Codro was an Italian scientist and astrologer, who had been exiled from his native country under the convic- tion of being a magician, and had come to America when Don Pedro's predecessor, Vasco Nunez de Bal- boa, was Governor. Under this mild administration 46 EARLY EXPLORERS. the student had pursued his favorite studies unmo- lested, and had won the friendship of the natives, but in the excitement of the encounter with their new foes they mistook him for an enemy, and would have killed him had not De Soto interposed. Although he showed very little gratitude at the time, being, as he afterward expressed it, too much his debtor to make a sufficient acknowledgment, he later performed a kind- ness which few men would have dared to undertake. When De Avila wished to send messages to Spain, and was deliberating as to whom he might intrust with the valuable papers, knowing too well that none of his favorites was reliable, he fixed upon the sim- ple-minded Italian. Upon leaving Spain, Don Pedro had taken every precaution to prevent any correspondence between De Soto and his daughter. All letters were inter- cepted, and a violation of his commands was punisha- ble by death; but Codro was willing to risk the penalty that he might in a small way return the obligation to his friend. For five years no communi- cation had passed between the lovers, and now that an opportunity offered, De Soto feared to involve the bearer of his message. However, he was persuaded to accept the favor, and intrusted Micer Codro with a letter to his lady-love, for whom he still entertained feelings of the tenderest affection. The Italian gladly delivered the message to Donna Isabella, receiving her warmest gratitude in return, and offered to carry her answering letter; but unfortunately for those concerned, the incautious man stated, upon his arrival at Badajoz, that he had a packet for Don Pedro's daughter, which aroused the suspicion of. the vigilant inmates of the castle. HERNANDO DE SOTO. 47 The same ship that carried Codro back to Darien, bore communications to Don Pedro convicting the bearer of his letters, and virtually sealing his fate. Within a few days after his return he was sent upon a supposed mineralogical survey to the gulf of San Miguel and was never seen again. His fate was even unknown until after the disgraceful expedition to Nicaragua, .when De Soto came by chance upon the captain and his crew whom Don Pedro had com- missioned to murder Codro. These wretches were boasting of the way in which they had tortured their victim, and were laughing at his death agonies, when De Soto, overhearing the remarks, and burning with revenge, rushed upon the leader and dispatched him with his sword. Then, turning to the crew, who were long accustomed to such violent sights, and who were more than half inclined to sympathize with the avenger, he made such a bitter charge against them that they were glad to escape without punish- ment. When Codro was expiring, he had declared that his tormentor would soon f ollow him, and it was when the murderer was laughing at the possibility, that De Soto came forward and fulfilled, the prophecy. Some time before this De Soto had been sent by the Governor to Nicaragua in search of a passage, which was supposed to exist, connecting the two oceans. After having explored seven hundred miles of sea coast in a fruitless search for the imaginary strait, the expedition returned; but not without some recompense, for the rich country through which they had passed had yielded them a magnificent bounty. De Soto was beginning to realize his ambition. He had always maintained an independent attitude toward the Governor, but now that he had acquired a small 48 EARLY EXPLORERS. fortune he could better afford to show his indiffer- ence. He was first to acquaint Don Pedro with the fact that his successor, whom the King of Spain hadr sent, was already on the way to Darien. This in- duced the guilty official to seek refuge in Nica- ragua, for he hardly expected to be treated with more clemency than he himself had shown toward his predecessor, and, once in the neighboring terri- tory, he could put an end to Cordova, for whom he entertained the strongest hatred and envy. He there- fore went to Leon, and, under pretense of good will, sent messengers to acquaint that official of his coming. He was welcomed in the public square, where he drew up his soldiers in such order as to presage treachery to his kindly host; but this honest-hearted ruler had no fear of the man from whom he had received his authority. Now that his superior had arrived, he proceeded to extend the courtesies of hospitality, and to give an account of his own administration. He had not gone far in his recital when Don Pedro, according to a pre-arranged plan, ordered his headsman, who was standing in readiness, to put an end to the unsuspecting Cordova, whose head an instant later was rolling in the dust. De Soto, who, with his men, had taken a position on the side of the square opposite to Don Pedro and his guards, now spurred to desperation at sight of his friend's murder, dashed Avith drawn sword upon Don Pedro and would have dispatched him, had he not, by a sudden self-mastery, forborne for the sake of Isabella, and, without a sign of resistance from the soldiers, returned to his place. An instant later, Don Pedro, having recovered from his momentary conster- nation, called out: " Hernando De Soto you are HERNANDO DE SOTO. 49 ordered to dismount and submit yourself to the pun- ishment you have just seen inflicted upon your trait- orous comrade. Soldiers, drag him from his horse if he refuses to obey." For a time the men held back, but one of them at last stepped forward in obedience to the order. With a powerful sweep of his sabre De Soto cleaved his helmet in twain, and Don Pedro, seeing that to insist would be dangerous, since he was not supported, allowed the matter to pass. By a complication of circumstances the King's em- issary never landed at Darien, and reassured, Don Pedro again assumed the authority which he had not really given up. Pizarro was now projecting an unprovoked raid upon Peru in quest of gold and glory, and was calling upon the Governor for rein- forcements. He desired especially the cooperation of De Soto, who, he knew, would be a strong ally. The proposition was submitted to De Soto, who unac- countably accepted it, greatly to the satisfaction of Don Pedro and Pizarro, but unfortunately for his own good name. It might be said in defense of this course, however, that continued disappointments had driven the Spaniard almost to desperation, and, uncer- tain of the future, he recklessly joined his fortunes with the murderous adventurer in the hope that he might be able to acquire the wealth and renown which was his ultimate and absorbing aim. CHAPTER III. DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO. EAVING Darien, we turn to a new chap- ter in the career of De Soto — his con- nection with Francisco Pizarro in the conquest of Peru, which forms the most romantic, if not the most noteworthy, period of his stirring and adventurous life. It is possible that reference to the expedition of Pizarro may not seem entirely consistent with one of the chief purposes of this volume^ which is to pre- sent De Soto as the discoverer of the Mississippi River; still, the narrative of his heroic deeds would be incomplete without alluding briefly, at least, to that dark page in his history, which, were it possi- ble, I would gladly strike from his soldier escutch- eon. It is not strange that the invasion and conquest of one of the richest countries of South America should have presented some attractions to this lover of adventure, nor that when Pizarro found himself con fronted by overwhelming numbers in the mountain fastnesses of Peru, he should have remembered the gallant and chivalrous De Soto, who had given ample proof of his soldierly qualities. When, therefore, he urged the Governor to send his captain forward, holding out to that officer, meanwhile, the promise of second in command in the coming expedition, he (5Q) DE SOTO WITH PIZAERO. 51 Knew that the inducement would hardly fail. In confirmation of his prediction, De Soto started south- ward, soon afterward, with two ships and a small but strong force, in the direction of the Island of Puna, a strip of land separated from the mainland by a narrow channel, where Pizarro had been in possession for a short time. Upon his arrival there, De Soto found to his surprise that the promise of the lieuten- ancy was only a ruse which had been resorted to in order to secure his services, as that position was already filled by Pizarn/s elder brother, Hernando. The honor only rested nominally upon the latter, however, for from the moment that De Soto entered camp he was accorded the honors due to his deserved rank, and the general sentiment was never opposed by Pizarro, who, in his abject nature, did not dare to show any resentment toward a man so vastly his supe- rior, and upon whose cooperation he must com- pletely rely. During his short stay within the territory of the Peruvian monarch, ostensibly to convert its people to Christianity, all manner of outrages had been com- mitted by Pizarro and his confederates, and reports of his crimes had reached the mainland before the coming of De Soto. It was therefore the policy of the commander-in-chief to remain in the background, while his lieutenant, with a small following, went to reconnoitre the country and to see what manner of people they would have to encounter. As the rafts bearing the steel-clad warriors were slowly pushed ashore, the natives, naturally alarmed at the unusual sight, and determined to put an end to the invaders who were bringing destruction to their homes, at- tempted to make some resistance; but the invincible 52 EARLY EXPLORERS. Spaniards soon gained the advantage and began their march toward Tumbez. Some time previously Pizarro had visited this town, and while craftily holding in check his desire for plunder, in order that he might form some idea of its wealth, had inspired the hospitable citizens with confidence, and had been given the freedom of a trusted friend; but the later news of his cruelties on the neighboring island had given them an idea of his intentions, so that upon his second visit he found only abandoned and dis- mantled houses. This was a disappointment to the "conquerors," but they were not limited in their new field. With an escort of sixty horsemen and twenty foot soldiers, De Soto was soon sent to explore the towns lying farther in the interior. The natural fearlessness of the man who, free from the guilty motives that actu- ated his commander, could penetrate the lonely and unknown passes of this South American country without forebodings, won for him the confidence and good-will of the peaceful Peruvians. It is not prob- able that he believed he was violating any moral law in pursuing this course, nor that he need expect any resistance from the natives. The expedition was approved by his Catholic Majesty, the King of Spain, and any gold of which he or his companions might come into possession was to be obtained by legitimate means, for he especially enjoined his men not to commit any violence. In fact, everything tended to give his advance into the territories of the Inca the appearance of a peaceful embassy. The gleam of shield and sword, the grace of richly capari- soned steeds, the proud bearing of the helmeted cava- liers, and the waving of silken banners contributed DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO. 53 to make the passing of the glittering cavalcade a novel and awe-inspiring spectacle; while the lovely- scenery of Pern, although lately marked by the demolition of civil war, in turn won the admiration of the Spaniards. In slowly pursuing their course through the narrow defiles and along the fertile valleys, De Soto and his followers came upon the great highway leading to the capital of the empire, which extended for fifteen hundred miles across the varied passes of the Andes. This stupendous evidence of engineering skill, ac- complished by a comparatively obscure people, intimated to the Spaniards the possible strength of a nation which they had come to molest, and which, had their ultimate aims been known, could have crushed them at a single blow. Like the native houses, this road had been constructed of great blocks of stone, so dexterously fitted together as to make it appear one solid mass of masonry. Continu- ing their way upon this magnificent thoroughfare, the adventurers found themselves nearing the head- quarters of the Peruvian camp, which was located about three miles from the town of Caxamarca. At Guoncabama they were met by the Inca's envoy, bearing gifts and friendly greetings to Pizarro, and were asked to return with him to their chief. With some hesitation, De Soto consented, retrac- ing his course to San Miguel, the town which Pizarro was founding, some ninety miles south of Tumbez. It is said that the superstitious Pizarro, while engaged in a close battle with the Indians a short time before, had seen spirits hovering in the air above the contesting ranks; those on his side apparently led 54 EARLY EXPLORERS. by one resembling Saint Michael, while those of the enemy represented the forces of the Dark Angel. In the heat of the encounter, Saint Michael and his host were seen to meet and overcome the oppos- ing ranks, which Pizarro took as a sign of his own triumph. With renewed vigor the battle was con- tinued, the Spaniard vowing, if his men conquered, he would do something in honor of the friendly saint. The result was the building of a town which was to become the center of a large colony, and whose patron was to be San Miguel. Having entered its walls, the Inca's envoy, with all the ceremony of an ostentatious court, delivered the greetings and gifts of his Sovereign to the Spanish general; but Pizarro, notwithstanding these tokens of amity, suspected Attahuallapa of treachery, and feared to be drawn into some snare. De Soto's report of the magnificence of the larger towns through which he had passed, and the friend- liness of the people, in a measure reassured him, and more effectually aroused his craving for plunder, for during De Soto's absence he had conceived a design to seize the Inca in his own stronghold, and to assume control of the rich dominions which would thus fall into his victorious hand. These designs had not been made known to De Soto, who, he knew, would have rejected them. It was therefore innocently that his lieutenant conducted him to the presence of the Peruvian ruler, and in the name of the King of Spain besought an interview. The first meeting of the Inca and De Soto was a noble sight, and one which the historian has delighted to describe. On the wide plain beyond Caxamarca stretched the tents of the Indian army — a force (55) 56 EARLY EXPLORERS. numbered by thousands — with the gorgeous pavilion of the Inca in their midst; and here, sheltered by his protecting legions, the Indian ruler awaited the approach of the Spaniard. When within a few paces of the Inca, partly out of respect to the dignity of his presence, and partly to lessen the fears of the attendants, who were unable to emulate the proud indifference of their King at sight of the spirited white horse which the stranger rode, that gallant cavalier dismounted, and advanced to offer his salu- tations. In reply to his request that Pizarro be granted an audience, the Inca appointed the next day, and, as De Soto noticed during their conversation that Attahuallapa betrayed some interest in the restless movements of the horse, which had been left in charge of an attendant, he mounted and performed several equestrian feats, greatly to the astonish- ment and terror of the awed retainers. This over, De Soto retired, bearing the royal message to Pizarro. It was not until late in the afternoon of November sixteenth, 1532, that the Inca, with his splendid cortege, approached the public square of Caxamarca, the place which had been agreed upon for the meeting. Already the body of armed warriors, drawn up in imposing array, awaited his coming. Attahuallapa, dressed in the gorgeous robes of his office, his handsome head bound in the variegated turban from which hung the scarlet tassel, the insignia of his rank, his pensive features standing out in striking contrast against the glittering palanquins presented an impressive and suggestive spectacle to the Spaniards. Friar Vincent, Pizarro's spiritual adviser, and the D£ SOTO WITH PIZARltO. 5t chief among the missionary band, so-called, now advanced toward the King with upheld crucifix, and in the language of his priestly office exhorted him to embrace the Catholic faith, presenting some of its doctrines, and saying that it was for this that his countrymen had entered the Peruvian territories. The abruptness and strangeness of the address somewhat surprised Attahnallapa, who, with becom- ing firmness, refused to relinquish the religion of his fathers, and awaited the further pleasure of his inexplicable guests. Friar Vincent immediately re- ported his non-success to Pizarro, and, incensed at the proud bearing of the Peruvian, encouraged his master to set upon the obstinate unbelievers. The time for action had come. If the opportunity were lost, the Spaniards might be surrounded and an- nihilated, for their leader well knew that his out- rages would, sooner or later, raise rebellion. In a moment the square was a battle-ground, the Peruvian retainers, filled with consternation, and defenseless, were being hewn down, or attempting to escape th? massacre; the bearers of the royal palanquin were giving way before the deadly swords of their assailants, and the Inca was at the mercy of Pizarro and Ins men. A body of desperate Indians had burst through the stone inclosure of the square and were fleeing toward the distant tents, hotly pursued by a body of horsemen; but their object gained, the troops were recalled and the carnage stopped. What part De Soto took in this perfidious affair has not been recorded. With the friendly feeling he entertained for Attahuallapa, it is not probable that he would enter into any conspiracy against him, or that he would countenance such a breach of military honor. 58 EARLY EXPLORERS. If he was a witness of the scene, and made no attempt to prevent it, this is the darkest accusation that can be brought against him, but his subsequent kindness to the outraged monarch would seem to deny even this. During the dark days that followed, De Soto made frequent visits to the captive, and Attahuallapa, rec- ognizing his superior qualities and sense of honor, soon gave him his cofidence. Through De Soto the agreement was drawn up by which the Inca was to be released upon the payment of the fabulous sum which, in his desperation, he had offered. This ransom, consisting of two rooms closely filled with gold and silver ornaments, taken from temple and home, was gladly given by the faithful Peruvians for the return of their Sovereign, whom they reverenced almost to idolatry; but even this did not satisfy Pizarro. He feared to release Attahuallapa, as he might, when returned to his people, excite their sense of injustice. He therefore notified his officers of his intentions upon the Inca's life, which he had long determined to take, giving as his reason the involved position of the Spanish troops, and hinting that the Peruvians were already preparing for an attack. De Soto, who felt that his honor, as well as that of Pizarro, was at stake, had been continually urging Attahuallapa's release, and refused to believe the report of an uprising; but Pizarro with his usual cun- ning, suggested that his incredulous lieutenant take a body of horse and reconnoitre that part of the coun- try supposed to be the gathering place of the enemy's forces. This De Soto undertook without delay, hop- ing the sooner to set the prisoner at liberty; while Pizarro, relieved of his presence, prepared to carry out his terrible purpose. DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO. 59 The Inca once out of the way, the Peruvians would be thrown into a state of confusion, thus making the seizure of the capital easy, and safety assured for the "Christian missionaries." When Attahuallapa was informed of his fate, he seemed overcome by its cruelty, and called excitedly for his friend De Soto, who he hoped might mitigate the sentence; but Pizarro mockingly informed him that De Soto was far away and powerless to lend him any assistance. Although he had received very little encouragement, he confidently believed that Pizarro would keep his promise and treat him honor- ably. The sudden crushing of his hopes was there- fore doubly cruel. The execution was arranged to take place at night- fall, and the soldiers, bearing torches, were called together at a given signal from their leader. The Inca, his wretched captivity about to end, was once more led out under the open sky, shackled hand and foot, and bound to the stake. Friar Vincent approached and again exhorted him to embrace the faith of Eome, with the promise that the manner of his death would be mitigated by the act; but to this hypocritical appeal Attahuallapa refused to listen, accepting his fate with courageous firmness. De Soto, soon returning from his fruitless expedi- tion, found the Inca dead and the Spaniards plan- ning to take possession of his dominions. His grief and anger knew no bounds. Going to Pizarro's tent, he bitterly accused him of the murder and threatened to report the crime to the King of Spain; then throwing down his glove in the presence of those who had heard his accusation, he challenged them to deny the guilt of their chief. Receiving no response, he 60 EARLY EXPLORERS. turned and left the tent, with mingled feelings of hatred and remorse. The fact that he should have joined them afterward in their march toward Cuzco seems strangely inconsistent; hut to abandon his countrymen in their hour of peril would have appeared cowardly, and Hernando De Soto was not the one to retreat. The advance upon the capital brought ruin and desolation to the villages along the route, for while De Soto, with his stout-hearted band, was hurrying forward, sparing always private property, while occa-. sionally plundering the temples and shrines, Pizarro, with his freebooters, was pillaging and plundering in every direction. In this way the road was cleared, and the attacks of the natives repulsed by the swords of De Soto's men, while Pizarro reaped the benefits. In the meantime, Tapaxpa, the grief-stricken son of Attahuallapa, had been seized and declared his father's successor, that Pizarro might still hold the Inca in his power. Another captive was one of the most influential of the nobility, a man trusted and loved by the Peruvians, whom Pizarro guarded and declared to be held as a hostage, threatening to put him to death at the first sign of rebellion from the people. This unfortunate victim, upon a slight out- break during the march toward Cuzco, was notified that his end was near, and was tendered the consola- tions of the church; but this offer presented no attrac- tions to one who had suffered such injustice at the hands of its fanatical devotees, and he told them that he did not understand their religion, and all he had seen of it had not impressed him favorably. When within a short distance of the capital, De Soto's troop was assailed by a desperate band of DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO. 61 Peruvians, who had taken a position on high ground above the pass through which the Spaniards were moving, and who determined to make a last effort to destroy their enemies. Stones were hurled from the overhanging cliffs, and showers of arrows sent clash- ing down upon the steel armor of horse and rider, but De Soto quickly dashed up the steep defile, and, once on the level plain, routed the enemy. The news of defeat was soon spread, and, having lost all hope, the Peruvians hurried to the city and applied the torch to every wall. As the conquering army approached, they saw its palaces and temples in flames and its inhabitants vanished. Hurrying hither and thither, they attempted to rescue part of the gold and silver which had not been carried away, but the conflagration was too great, and the splendid treasures of the Inca were lost in the ruins. The conquest of Peru accomplished, and his desire for gold thoroughly satisfied, De Soto now turned with renewed craving to the peaceful confines of Spain, and to the long-delayed meeting with Donna Isabella. He, therefore, prepared to return, that he might claim the hand of his lady-love, and share with her his splendid fortune. A good share of Attahual- lapa's ransom had fallen to him, and he had accepted it rather than allow it go go into the hands of Pizarro. While following the fortunes of his associates in Peru, he neems to have attempted in a degree the moderation of 1 heir terrible deeds, and the upholding of his coun- try's honor. That he did not do so more effectually is the one great reproach which humanity raises against him; the one great blemish upon an other- wise admirable and chivalrous career. CHAPTER IV. DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. WO years of luxury and inactivity in Spain after the hardships of the Peruvian ex- pedition, had satisfied the restless spirit of De Soto, and quite exhausted the wealth which he had accumulated. Unsparingly the golden treasure of the Inca had been given in exchange for the extravagances which attracted the wealthier grandees, and the envied cavalier again found it neces- sary to seek his fortune beyond the sea. While he was still in South America with Pizarro, Don Pedro had died, leaving the greater share of his wealth for the erection of a convent, over which his elder daughter was appointed abbess, and disinheriting his former favorite on account of her faithful attachment to Don Hernando, for whom, to the last, he entertained the strongest dislike. Isabella was therefore unable to follow her generous impulses and avoid another separation. At this time all Europe was stirred by the tales of Cabega de Vaca, one of the adventurers who had escaped the fate of his companions under Narvaez in Florida, and who suggested to his credulous country- men untold regions of gold in the chimerical El Dorado. His words had magical effect. Immedi- ately the rich fields of North America were the (6?) DISCOVEKY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 6d engrossing topic, the cynosure of ambitious fortune- seekers. Very naturally, De Soto came into promi- nence, and was soon known to be contemplating an expedition thither. He believed that he would find an easier road to fortune in the land which De Vaca had described than in the mountains of Peru, and he accordingly appealed to King Charles V., offering to meet all expenses and to reserve a fifth of the treasure for the crown if His Majesty would sanction the undertaking. With admirable generosity, Charles gave his con- sent, offering his zealous subject the governorship of Cuba, with other high-sounding dignities, and grant- ing him an estate, with the title of Adelantado, in Florida. Enthusiastic knights from every direction now hastened to place themselves under the leader- ship of De Soto, and to make preparations for their voyage. The magnificence of the equipments was in accordance with their inflated ideas, representing vast sums of money, and appearing more suitable for a triumphal march through the reputed land of gold, than for the toilsome and dangerous campaigns which were actually to be endured. The passage of De Soto and his followers through her streets, en route to the ships, formed probably the most brilliant pageant which the citizens of San Lncar had ever witnessed. With waving pennants, and decks glittering with the armor of nine hundred knights, the fleet moved slowly out of port, taking a southerly course in the direction of the Canary Isles. Within two weeks they cast anchor at Gromera, sailing from thence to San Iago de Cuba, which was reached toward the latter part of May. As the distance lessened between 64 EARLY EXPLORERS. them and their El Dorado, the adventurers, impa- tient of delay, urged the termination of the voyage; and De Soto, equally eager, hastened forward to Havana, where final arrangements were to be made. Two brigantines were sent out from here to discover the most practicable route for the expedition, and upon their return knight and lady bade adieu; the great band of explorers, now ten hundred strong, were animated with the hope of their future achieve- ments, while Isabella having been appointed regent during the Governor's absence, assumed the responsi- bilities of the office with many sad forebodings. Seven days later, on Whitsunday, 1539, the fleet reached the quiet waters of Tampa Bay, which they named Espirito Santo, in honor of the day. Here they met the first opposition. On the high hills along the shore the beacons of the unknown natives were sending out a menacing signal, and De Soto, wishing to avoid any unnecessary encounter, pru- dently made a landing two leagues.beyond. A march of a few miles through the enchanted wilderness, gorgeous in its luxuriant tangles of tropical vegeta- tion, brought the Spaniards to an abandoned village, the home of the Indian chief Ucita, where the first encampment was made. Here, instead of the rude dwellings of the northern tribes, they found houses of wood, some of them adorned with hangings of finely cured and handsomely colored skins, with floor mats of the same soft texture; while the dwelling of the cacique, standing apart upon a little eminence, bore traces of being more fancifully arranged than the rest. As soon as he had taken possession of this con- venient camp, De Soto sent messengers to Ucita DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 65 stating the peaceful object of his journey, and asking for his friendship; but the chief ignored these ad- vances, and kept his whereabouts a secret. Unfortunately for those who were to follow him, Narvaez had thoroughly antagonized the natives through whose territories he had passed, and had aroused in them a stubborn and bitter hatred. Wher- ever he had gone he had given fresh cause for revenge, and to the chief whose good-will De Soto was now seeking, he had offered the most shocking atrocities. It was therefore useless to remain longer at this point, with the hope of receiving any information or of obtaining guides. Troops were sent out in every direction to reconnoitre. One of these parties, upon leaving camp, came upon a body of Indians, who, frightened at the appearance of the strangers, ran into the woods. One of their number, however, remained in sight, and, advancing, made the sign of the cross, greatly to the astonishment of the Span- iards. When the mysterious figure reached them, they learned that he was Juan Ortiz, a survivor of the Narvaez expedition, who had been captured by the Indians, and, after suffering many persecutions at the hands of his captors, had finally escaped and received the protection of a friendly chief. After hearing the story of their countryman's adventures, and rejoicing in his recovery, the men anxiously questioned him concerning the reputed gold fields. But Ortiz, having been confined to the limits of a single tribe, was neither able to give them any information nor to act as their guide. Upon finding no sign of the coveted treasure, and dis- couraged by the hardships which had already been met with, De Soto sent the ships back go Cuba, and 66 EAKLY EXPLORERS. planned a march toward the north. Hunger had already begun to threaten the band,, but, finding occasional fields of maize, and here and there a fertile stretch of country, the men bravely advanced under the leadership of their dauntless captain, baffling native treachery, and encountering the difficulties of swamp and forest, where their lives were continually in jeopardy. Still led on by rumors of gold, De Soto and his followers reached the domain of Vitachuco, the cacique whose stratagem brought about one of the most picturesque episodes in the history of the expedition. This Indian, harboring a deadly revenge against the Spaniards, notwithstanding the passive tolerance of his brother chiefs, determined to annihi- late the invaders when he should have them in his power. Under the guise of friendship he invited them to his village, and while showing them every attention formed a plot for their destruction as ingen- ious as it was deadly. On an appointed day the Spaniards were to be invited to witness some maneuvers of Vitachuco's warriors, the Indian weapons to be concealed in the long grass, and at a given signal from the chief, the conspirators were to seize the hidden arms and rush upon their defenseless guests — Vitachuco, with twelve chosen braves, to single out the leader. De Soto, having been warned by the faithful Ortiz, was pre- pared to meet the forces of the enemy on their own ground, and when the fatal day arrived accepted the invitation of the chief with evident pleasure. The scene of conflict, as the old historians describe it, was a magnificent one. Out on the sunny plain stretched the long line of warriors drawn up in martial array, DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 67 their treacherous weapons hidden in the long grass; while opposite, De Soto, with his followers, was watching with intent gaze the dexterous movements of the Indians, and waiting for the cacique's signal. In an instant the warning came. With the swiftness of eagles the traitorous band closed upon the Span- iards; but finding, to their astonishment, that they must deal with a force as carefully armed and as fully prepared as themselves, their onset was soon repulsed. Leaving Vitachuco, the expedition moved on toward the north until the Great Morass was reached; thence to the southwest toward Appalachee Bay, where the boats from Cuba were met and sent westward in search of a favorable port. The march was then directed toward. the northeast, where there was a region abounding in pearls and gold, whose Sovereign was the gentle and amiable Queen called by the old chroniclers " the Ladie of the Countree." The Span- iards seem to have received every kindness at her hands, and to have found a fabulous amount of pearls of high value, and yet they kept the " ladie" as a hostage, it is said, to insure the non-resistance of her people. Under some pretext, however, she effected her escape, a gallant Spaniard disappearing at the same time, and upon this episode a Southern writer has woven his romantic tale of " Andres Vasconselos." Still deceived by the misrepresentations of their guides, and by the finding of the pearls, the travelers pursued their ignis-fatuus through the fields of South Carolina, Georgia, and Alabama, whither it led them many a weary march. Then turning south- ward they reached Mauvilla, from which the present town of Mobile probably derived its name. Here 68 EARLY EXPLORERS. their slaves were captured and the pearls lost with them, but De Soto, determined to avenge the robbery, made a violent attack upon the place, setting fire to the houses in which his valuable treasures were con- sumed. Here also the ships sent from Appalachee were heard from, but for various reasons De Soto did not wish to have their arrival known. He had hoped to send back to Cuba glowing accounts of the country and to make presents of pearls and gold, but both these plans had become impossible. He feared, too, if those who were with him once saw the means of abandoning the enterprise, they would leave him powerless to advance, for with the disheartening opposition which he had met during eighteen months, the courageous spirit of De Soto was still unwilling to acknowledge failure. Having, therefore, planned the course he would pursue, he held no com- munication with Maldonado, the captain of the ships, but turned resolutely away, "determined to send no news of himself until he had found some rich country." After waiting many weeks for some sign of the expedition, Maldonado returned to Cuba, where the Governor and those who were with him were lamented as dead. In the meanwhile, De Soto was taking a north- westerly course through the fields and forests of what is now the flourishing State of Mississippi, and slowly approaching that Great Stream with which his destiny became so closely linked. As he advanced, the In- dians became more hostile, contesting the way with arrow and tomahawk and harassing the encampment at night. His men, too, were discontented, having seen hundreds of their companions perish from DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 69 exposure and violence, and having found no recom- pense for their wearisome marches. Yet under these embarrassments the intrepid cavalier led them on, apparently stimulated by defeat and strengthened by difficulty. At last the shores of the Mississippi were reached, it is conjectured, between the thirty-fifth and thirty-sixth parallels of latitude, a few miles below Memphis. What impression the river made upon De Soto and his companions as they came suddenly upon it can only be imagined. It was then, as it is now, a turbulent flood, whirling along on its muddy surface a mass of logs and driftwood from the forest banks above, where the white man was unknown and the Indian was still monarch. They had found nothing in all their wanderings that would compare with it, no valley enriched by so dig- nified a stream, so they named it Rio Grande. Finding it thus unexpectedly, the Great River no doubt had its effect upon the minds of the explorers, who, notwithstanding repeated disappointments, could yet find something in the hidden regions of an unknown country to stimulate their energies. In- stead therefore of turning back when this new bar- rier crossed their way, rafts were built and the entire company carried to the other side. Parties were then sent hither and thither to explore the country and to inquire after the " yellow metal/' but the interpret- ers gave them the old response — gold could be found farther on in the mountains to the west. Still deceived and suspected by the Indians, who onl\ wished to be rid of them, the Spaniards passed over miles of that great Western country which remained a wilderness long after their feet had penetrated its 70 EARLY EXPLORERS. solitudes; occasionally finding a friendly chief, or a rich section, where the confident De Soto would lay plans for the establishment of a powerful and wealthy colony. So amid repeated discouragements and fruitless wanderings the expedition reached again the " Father of Waters," whence a few months before they had started forth reanimated. De Soto, the ever buoyant leader, teeming with new schemes and always ready to face difficulties, now began to give way to an irresistible despondency. All of his hopes were vanished, his health was under- mined by continued hardship, and those about him were impatient to return to Cuba. Seeing his further efforts unavailing, he decided upon returning to the coast, and accordingly sent a party down the stream to make investigations; but they could get no information, and the canebrakes and other obstructions met with in the tortuous descent delayed their progress. A low fever began to waste his strength and he had no power to resist it. So lay the Chevalier De Soto upon his death-bed, broken in body and spirit, and un- conscious of the great part he was to play in the history of the river, within sight of whose shores he expired. On the twenty-first of May, 1542, he called those who remained of his brave band about him, to give them his last messages and to appoint his successor. There has been much conjecture regarding the death of De Soto, some historians expressing a con- viction of foul play, and bringing together circum- stantial evidence to confirm it; but whether or not their surmises were correct must ever remain a mys- tery. After dark on the day of his death, the burial rites