THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID -tlsl^^t vr -ul +&■ ^ tsCtH^ TWO LECTURES ON THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF BERKHAMSTED. BY JOHN WOLSTENHOLME COBB, M.A. LONDON : PRINTED BY NICHOLS AND SONS, 25, Parliament Street. M.DCCC.LXXX11I. J) til 16 / 2*3 PEEFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. The Lectures contained in the following pages formed part of the course delivered to the Members of the Berkhamsted Mechanics' Institute during the winter of 1854-5. They are printed at the request of those who heard them, though, from their simple and conversational style, it will at once be perceived that they were originally written without any idea of publication. Compiled indeed, as they were, only in the short intervals which parochial engagements allowed for them, nothing elaborate was possible. Trouble, how- ever, has not been spared to render them a trustworthy and connected record of the History and Antiquities of Berkhamsted. It is, perhaps, needless to say that much was omitted in their delivery for the sake of being as little tedious as possible. Instead of encumbering each page with references, it has been thought sufficient to append a general list of books consulted. Many thanks are due to numerous friends for their valuable contributions and corrections. Any profit which may arise from the sale of this publication will be added to the funds of the Institute. Berkhamsted, December, 1855. PEEFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. At the request of tbe Committee of the Mechanics' Institute, I have carefully revised these Lectures with a view to republication. I have thought it best to make as few alterations as possible in the text of the work, and to throw such further information as I have acquired into the shape of notes [ ] and Appen- dices [VII.-XL] That portion of Lecture II. which relates to the Church must, of course, be always supple- mented by Appendix VIII , which contains an account of the Church as it is. This is the only instance in which I have thought it right to make any reference to what has happened in our own times. I am thankful to say that the necessary corrections of errata have not been numerous. It has been with me a labour of love to comply with the request of the Committee, and an agreeable task as Hector to re- call many pleasant associations of former days when I was Curate. I have again to express my best thanks for additional information to many old and not a few new Mends. It may perhaps be well to state that the copyright of the book still remains in the hands of the Institute. I add with pleasure that for the plan of the Church the best thanks of the Institute are due to Messrs. Batterbury and Huxley, architects, who have pre- pared it, and to Dr. Batterbury, the President of the Institute, who has contributed it. To the President and to the Committee for their kind co-operation I myself am greatly indebted, and most especially to my old friend Mr. Henry Nash, still the Secretary. Rectory, Berkhamsted, January, 1883. REFERENCES. E Keep. P Inner Ward. Q Inner Ditch. H Outer Ditch. I Middle Bank K Bastions. L Gateway. iff c - BERKHAMSTED CASTLE. (By permission of the Royal Archaeological InstiUite.) HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF BERKHAMSTED. LECTURE I. DELIVERED ON THE EVENING OF TUESDAY, JANUARY 23, 1855. It is certainly right that we should all know something of the history of the place in which we live ; and though I dare say many here to-night are, as old inhabitants ought to be, well acquainted with everything that relates to the history of Berk- hamsted, still no doubt there are some who have seldom if ever given the subject any thought at all. I trust, therefore, that to such among you, at any rate, the facts I have been able to collect about the history and antiquities of this town and neighbour- hood may not prove uninstructive, and, though to many they are not new, still I hope they may not be without some degree of interest to you all. I myself, I can assure you, have felt no ordinary interest in the collection of materials for a lecture on the history of a place of which I must say I have every reason to be very fond, though I have been resident in it but so short a time. Of course, from the very nature of my subject, you must see at once that I can pretend to little originality in the remarks I am about to offer. For much of what 1 have put together I am indebted to those of my friends who have kindly lent me books or otherwise given me valuable help and information ; and when I tell you further that I have made several pilgrimages to the B 2 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. British Museum and there consulted many curious volumes which I could not find elsewhere, I think you will have a pretty general idea of the sources from which my lecture has been compiled. Having said thus much by way of preface, I will at once proceed with my subject. The first thing we shall be anxious to know is the meaning of the name of our town. In the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, a series of annals written probably almost contemporaneously with the events they describe, we find mention of our town in the account of the Norman Conquest as Beophhamrcebe; in Domesday Book, which was completed in 1086, we read it Berchehamstede, and in the early Latin Chronicles we constantly meet with it simply as Beorcham. Thus, for instance, the advance of the Conqueror is described by Florentius, the Monk of Worcester, as "ad villain quae Beorcham nominatur." Now 1 mention this par- ticularly, because it serves as an illustration of the fact that the syllable " stede " is merely a terminal expletive, adopted simply as indicating more fully place or position. In this way we find it used in the words road-stead and home-stead, which last is indeed precisely the same as the last two syllables of the name of our town — since ham and home are etymologically identical and signify a dwelling — to which if we add, as we often do, the term place, thereby making it dwelling-place, we shall have the exact equivalent to ham-sted. Ham-sted as you know is a very common termination of local names. To take this county only, we have our own town ; Hemel or Hean-Hempsted, i. e., the high Hamsted, for of course the name Hemel Hempsted has nothing to do with hemp ; Northamsted the north Hamsted ; Roth- amsted the red Hamsted ; and Whethamsted the wheat Hamsted. What sort of Hamsted then is ours — Berk-hamsted? To answer this question we must consider the etymology of the first syllable. Whether it be spelt beorh, berg, berk, or borough, it is etymo- logically the same, and signifies originally an artificial tumulus HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 3 or mound ; and, as applied to a town, a work of this sort raised for defence. Accordingly we are told by Anglo-Saxon scholars that whenever we find " bury "or " burg " in the name of a town, we may regard it as an evidence of fortification in Anglo- Saxon times, though of course it does not absolutely prove to us that such fortification was then existing for the first time. In the same way you know it is that "chester" or "caster" indi- cates a Roman military position. Such, then, we may believe to be the first and literal meaning of the word " berg." Secondarily, however, and metaphorically, it comes to signify a natural mountain or hill, and this is the meaning which has usually been attached to it as regards the name of our town. Thus, Norden, the oldest historian of the county, asserts that the Saxons in ancient times called this town Berghamstedt because it was villa sita inter montes: "berg" signifying a hill, "ham" a town, and "stedt" a seat; and Chauncy, "the Herodotus of Hertfordshire," quotes this derivation with approbation, adding, (what no one can deny,) " all which was very proper for the situation hereof." I have now suggested two explanations of the name Berkhamsted, and must leave you at liberty to adopt whichever you please : the one metaphorically gives its meaning as the town situated amongst the hills, or the hill homestead ; the other literally, and therefore perhaps more correctly, makes it equivalent to the fortified homestead or dwelling-place by the burys. With respect to the addition of the word Great, some- times applied to distinguish our town from Little Berkhamsted* on the other side of the county, as it was considered unnecessary in former times, so indeed it ought to be in our own. The s/ime may be said of the ecclesiastical appellation St. Peter, by which our parish is distinguished from the adjacent one of Berkhamsted St. Mary, or " North Berchamstede," or, as it is now generally called, Northchurch. * It may be well to remark here that Bishop Ken was a native of Littlo Berkhamsted, and not, as has often been said, of our towm B 2 4 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. Next a few words about the orthography of the name of our town : you know that there are and have been a great many ways of spelling it, though perhaps you are not aware of quite so many as are put down in the accompanying list. This list contains 50 different spellings, for each of which I could give you the authority if necessary, and which I have no doubt might be very much enlarged. The earliest mention of the entire name which I have been able to discover occurs in the Anglo- Saxon Chronicle to which I have before referred, and there it is spelt thus : Beojihhanij-cebe. It would appear however that the orthography of the entire name most akin to the present genius of the language, and at the same time most strictly literal as to its etymology, is BERKHAMSTED, a mode of spelling which has the no small recommendation of being the shortest, and for which also we have excellent authority — the authority of the illustrious Camden. With regard to the insertion of the letter p, I may just remark that, though frequently interpolated, as in Hampshire, Hampton, Hampstead, Hampden, &c, still it never occurs in this position in any purely Anglo-Saxon document. Its earliest occurrence in the name of our town which I re- member to have seen is in an epistle, by no means a pleasing one, from Pope Innocent to King John, in the tenth year of his reign, in which he bids him make restitution of the goods of Queen Berengaria, his brother Richard's wife. As to the pronunciation, of course it will vary, just as we say Barkshire or Berkshire. Barclay or Berkeley. It is plain how the word was pronounced in the middle of the sixteenth century from the spelling Barkhamsted which then first occurs. As bear- ing directly on this subject, we may quote the words of Chauncy respecting Hertford : " Doubtless, it was merely called Hartford for Hertford, by reason of the broad dialect and ill-speaking of the vulgar sort of people, which oftentimes through long usage changed the true names of divers places." * Vide Appendix I. HISTORY OF BE11KHAMSTED. I need hardly remark, however, that we have here no criterion whereby to decide on the correct or approved pronunciation of the present day. * Having said thus much of the name, we will now proceed with the History of Berkhamsted. Its early history, like that of most other places, is involved in obscurity. The learned Dr. Stukeley has contended that it stands on the site of the ancient British town of Durocobrivis, " the city of the marshy stream," an honour which has also been claimed for Dunstable, Redburn, Ravensborough, and Hertford. Now, without attempting to settle this very doubtful point, it may not be uninteresting to make one or two remarks on what is certainly the oldest relic in our neighbourhood, I mean the " Gryme's Dyke." You must all have observed in walking to Frithsden a great bank or wall of earth with a ditch in front extending across the common. This is part of what is called Gryme's Dyke, a name however by no means peculiar to this particular earthwork. Its probable meaning is " the magic trench," and like the name Devil's Bridge, so common in this and other countries, it seems to have been appropriated originally by the ignorant to what they con- sidered a work of superhuman construction. As applied to the earthwork on the common, the name occurs under the spelling " Grymesdich" in so early a document as the charter granted to Ashridge by Edmund Earl of Cornwall, in the reign of Henry III. In all probability we see in this Gryme's Dyke an ancient British earthwork, erected by the Celts after the taking of Verulam, as a means of defence against the invading Belgae. The bank and ditch have been traced as far as Wendover and Missenden, and when defended by the valour of a hardy race must have afforded no insignificant obstruction to an advancing * [Cf. an excellent paper by Freeman in the first number of Longman's Maga- zine, in which the subject is illustrated by "Clerk" pronounced Clurk or Clark (French Claire) ; also " German," " Jersey," formerly Jarman, Jarsey. l'robably the original pronunciation of Berkhamsted was like the spelling — Beorchamsted.] 6 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. foe. Such are the traces which the earliest inhabitants of this island have left behind them in our neighbourhood.* Whilst Britain was in the hands of the Romans, the highway f in all probability ran pretty nearly in the same direction as at present, and the soldiers of the Empire marched from Verulam to Bicester along the valley in which our town now stands. There is a curious local tradition that at this early period in its history this neighbourhood was visited by St. Paul, who drove away from it for ever all serpents and thunderstorms. Unfor- tunately the latter part, at any rate, of this tradition is utterly falsified by experience. So much for the history of our neigh- bourhood before the Anglo-Saxon invasion. The more formal foundation, however, of our town, as its name implies, would appear to date from Anglo-Saxon times. England was then divided, not as it is now into counties, but into kingdoms, in each of which there was a separate king. This part of the country was in the kingdom of Mercia — a kingdom which com- prised the whole of the midland counties ; and in this great kingdom, so suitable did the locality of Berkhamsted appear, that we are told it was selected by the Mercian kings as a fre- quent place of residence. If we may trust Sir Henry Spelman, the first event of interest in the annals of our now important town was the great council or parliament which was held here by King Wihthrsede, a.d. 697. This, however, is contradicted by Gough and Kemble, who claim the honour for Brasted, in Kent, a supposition certainly borne out by the fact that Kent and not Mercia was governed by King Wihthrsede. Notwith- standing these doubts as to the place of meeting, it may not be undesirable to know something of the history of this famous * I may mention here that Lord Londesborough has in his possession a coin of Cunobeline, which was discovered at Berkhamsted: Obv. CVN. beneath a horseman galloping to the right. Rev. Victory walking to the right holding a garland. JE. Weight 49 gr.— Num. Chron. ii. 192. Several Roman coins have also been fonnd here. I [Akeman Street.] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 7 council. It was held under the presidency of Birtwald, Arch- bishop of Canterbury. Gybmond, Bishop of Rochester, and all the great men of the day, were present and assisted at its deliberations. The laws which were passed have been preserved, and in them are several marks of good policy, besides many improvements suggested by Christianity. For instance, the observance of the Lord's day is strictly provided for. Thus, if a master made a servant work on Sunday he was to be fined eighty shillings. If a servant travelled by his own choice on Sunday he was to be fined six shillings or be whipped. It is curious to observe that the Lord's day in these cases is defined as commencing at sunset on Saturday. The last canon is in- teresting as descriptive of the caution necessary to be observed in the then unsettled state of the country. " If any stranger shall wander privately through the country, and shall neither cry aloud nor sound his horn, he shall be taken for a thief, and shall be either slain or banished." So much for the council of King Wihthraede, which may or may not have been held in our town. The next time, however, Berkhamsted makes its appearance in the pages of history is in a much less dubious manner. In that very important year for England, a.d. 1066 — the year of the Norman conquest — it stands forth without doubt as an im- portant Anglo-Saxon stronghold, and as such was selected by the Conqueror as a resting-place previous to his coronation. That William came to our town and resided here for some time is as much a matter of fact as any other event in history. We cannot, however, make the same assertion with regard to all that is said to have happened during his visit. Many are the curious and often contradictory incidents related by the old chroniclers with respect to the purport of his continuance here. After a comparison, however, of these different stories, the probable narrative of the Conqueror's movements would seem, to be as follows. 8 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. After the battle of Hastings, William crossed the Thames at Wallingford and proceeded to Berkhamsted, where he halted, not, as Chauncy says, being compelled to do so by a stratagem of Frederick Abbot of St. Albans, but in order to receive the deputation of Saxon nobles which there awaited him to offer him the crown and swear allegiance to his government. Edgar Atheling, the heir to the Saxon throne, the Earls Edwin and Morcar, Aldred Archbishop of York, and the Bishops Wulfstan of Worcester and Walter of Hereford, were at the head of this important deputation, and when fair words and promises had passed on both sides, the Conqueror advanced to Westminster, where Aldred performed the ceremony of coronation. Much disaffection still remained throughout the land, and in this county Frederick the Abbot of St. Albans was found daring enough to oppose the claims of the newly-made king. William seems to have resolved to proceed to St. Albans after his coro- nation, but the Abbot is stated to have rendered an approach impossible, by causing trees to be felled and placed across the highways. William, therefore, disappointed of his visit, came again to his old quarters at Berkhamsted, and invited Frede- rick to an amicable meeting. The Abbot arrived, and, mutual concessions having been made, the King took an oath, which was administered by Frederick on the relics from St. Alban's Abbey, that he would observe and keep the good old laws of this country as they had been established by the ancient kings, and especially by King Edward. William was surrounded by many of his Norman retainers, amongst whom was Lanfranc the primate elect ; and whether, owing to their presence or not, it is certain that, as an evident token of the way in which the King meant to keep his oath, angry words soon passed between Frederick and the monarch — the Abbot declaring that if all the clergy had manifested the same spirit as himself the Con- queror would never have set foot in England, and William, on the other hand, uttering such severe threats in reply that the HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 9 Abbot's voluntary withdrawal from St. Albans to the Isle of Ely was the immediate consequence. This was a prelude to what was to follow. No sooner was the Conqueror firmly established on the throne than he forgot his promise. He neglected and slighted the ancient lords of the soil, seized their possessions, and gave them away to his own friends and relations. This town, together with many others, he presented to his brother by the mother's side, Robert Earl of Mortaigne or Moreton. William was, indeed, most lavish in his gifts to this nobleman. In Sussex alone he granted him 121 manors in addition to the strong Roman castle of Pevensey, which he re-fortified and enlarged. He was created Earl of Cornwall, and, in all, was possessed of 793 manors, among which our town held a most conspicuous place. Now we are told by Camden that it was this Earl Moreton who built our castle. We must not, however, so understand this as to imagine that there was no castle here previously, but rather that, as at Pevensey, the Earl re-built and re-constructed on a more enlarged scale what he already found in part existing. Some, indeed, have asserted a Roman origin for the castle, because of certain coins which have been found on its site ; but, without attempting to decide upon evidence so uncertain, we may well conceive that it was a firm stronghold in Anglo-Saxon times. We shall probably, therefore, be right in regarding the existing mound or keep as the work of its original founder. But of this more hereafter.* Berkhamsted is mentioned in Domesday Book as belonging to this same Earl Moreton. Now Domesday Book, or Dom-boc, as many of you are aware, was a survey of the whole country made by order of the Conqueror. It was commenced in 1078, and finished in 1086. Its name implies that it was " a judicial or decisive record or book of dooming justice," and such records were probably so called originally with a reference to that solemn day when the book * [Vide p. 27 and App. VII] 10 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. shall be opened and the dead shall be judged according to those things which are written in the books, according to their works. The other suggested derivation of " Domus Dei," from the church of Westminster where it was deposited, seems unworthy of attention. The entry in this curious record regarding our town is very interesting, and when translated from the original Latin is to this effect. I give it in the words of Chauncy : " Earl Moreton held Berchehamstede in Treung hundred ; it was rated for thirteen hides. The arable is six-and-twenty carucates, in demesne six hides, and there are three carucates, and three others may be made. Here is a presbyter or priest with fourteen villains, and fifteen bordars having twelve caru- cates, and now eight more may be made ; there are six servants and a certain ditcher had half an hide, and Ralph a servant of the Earl one virgate. In the borough of this vill are two-and- fifty burgesses who pay four pounds a-year for toll, and they have half an hide, and two mills of twenty shillings rent by the year ; and there are two arpends of vineyard, meadow eight carucates, common of pasture for the cattle of the vill, wood to feed a thousand hogs, and five shillings rent by the year. In the whole value it is worth sixteen pounds ; when he received it twenty pounds ; in the time of King Edward (the Confessor) four-and-twenty pounds : Edmar a thane of Earl Harold held this manor." With regard to this entry, I may just mention that hides and carucates are measures of land which have no exact equivalent at the present day. Demesne land, terra dominicalis, means land for the maintenance of the lord's own family. A villain (de villa) in this case is not so much a bondman as a farmer fixed on his farm, and, as such, the property of his lord. A bordar is the tenant of a borda or cottage, with a small parcel of land annexed, held by the service of finding poultry, eggs, &c, for the lord's board or table. I need hardly say that the two mills here mentioned remain to this day. In the inven* HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 11 tory of the property of the King of the Romans we find three mills enumerated ; three water-mills worth 1 1. 6s. 8d. each ; and one more is added in an inquisition taken at the death of his son.* The two mills are named again in Queen Elizabeth's grant of the property to Sir Edward Carey as two water-mills under the yearly rent of 11. 10s. So much for the entry in Doomsday Book, which tells us that Berkhamsted belonged to the Earl Moreton. There is a curious story told by Matthew Paris, either of this nobleman, or his son William ; whether of the two is uncertain. It is to this effect. When William Rufus was accidentally shot in the New Forest, this Lord of Berkhamsted happened to be hunting near the place. Knowing nothing of the King's death, he was suddenly met by a great black goat bearing the body of the monarch, all black, naked, and wounded through the midst of the heart, and be- smeared with blood. Amazed at the sight, he adjured the goat by the Holy Trinity to tell him what that was which he so carried : to which the goat replied, " I am carrying your King to judgment ;f yea that tyrant William Rufus ; for I am an evil spirit, and the revenger of the malice which he bore to the Church of God: it was I who caused this his slaughter; for the Proto-martyr of England (St. Alban) commanded me so to do, who complained to God of him for his grievous oppressions in this Isle of Britain, which he first hallowed." Such is the story which we are told the Earl subsequently related to his followers. Now, if this tale prove anything, it would go far, I think, to shew that our Lord of Berkhamsted knew something more of the King's death than he chose thus to make public. The young Earl soon afterwards took up arms in Normandy against Henry the First, but was speedily taken prisoner. His * Vide page 18. f [William Rufus is perhaps the only recorded ruler of a Christian kingdom whose eternal damnation was assumed by all men as a matter of course. Ed'nii hunjli Review, 1865, on Sir F. Palgrave.] 12 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. eyes were put out, he was banished the realm, his estates con- fiscated, and his Castle of Berkhamsted, which his father had built, was razed to the ground. This town and manor thus reverted to the Crown. It was not long, however, before the King granted it to one Randulphus, whom he had placed in the office of Chancellor. Randulphus was a man of great arrogance, and consequently very unpopular. He it was who rebuilt the castle ; and, when the work of restoration was completed, he invited his sovereign to meet him here. The account of this visit, as related by Henry of Huntingdon, is very interesting. " The King," says the Chronicler, u having kept his Christmas at Dunstable, proceeded to Berkhamsted, where was a manifes- tation of God worthy of Himself. As Randulphus was con- ducting the Royal party to his castle, where the King proposed to stay some time as his guest, and he had reached the top of the hill from which the stately structure might be descried, whilst he was pointing to it with great elation, he fell from his horse, and a monk rode over him. In consequence he was so bruised that he breathed his last in a few days;" and then follows the remark, full of quaint humour, M Ecce quanta superbia quam vilissime Deo volente deperiit." We hear nothing of the residents here in King Stephen's time, but Henry II. had not long been on the throne when the custody of the castle was granted to a man then rapidly rising into eminence — the celebrated Thomas a Becket.* After Becket's death King Henry himself seems to have fixed upon Berkham- sted as a favourite place of residence. He constantly kept his court here,f an< ^ gave a substantial proof of the esteem in which he held our town by granting to us our first regular charter. In this charter, which was given at Oxford, on the 1st June, ad. 1156, in the presence of Theobald Archbishop of Canter- * [Who lived here in great state. Vide Longman, Edw. III. p. 58.] f e.g. when he granted the church of Havering to the monastery of St. Bernard de Monte Jovis to make fires for the poor people there. HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 13 bury, after the assertion that the men and merchants of Berk- hamsted and Wallingford, which is coupled with it, are to enjoy their privileges as well and as honourably, and better and more honourably, than in the days of King Edward, King William, and King Henry, we find a declaration that they are to be free of all tolls and duties whithersoever they go, whether through England, Normandy, or Spain; and any one disquieting them is to forfeit 101. It may be well to remark here that there is an instance of the assertion of this privilege in the Black Prince's time, when the Bailiff of Aylesbury's goods were dis- trained at Berkhamsted, for having taken toll of the tenants of this honor. This portion too of the grant is again recited and confirmed in the second year of King Eichard III., by John rector of Ashridge. The mention of merchants in this charter may lead us to inquire in what the chief business of the place then consisted. Salmon supposes, and with great probability, that it was a trade in wool. We know that in those times no fabrics were woven in England, and hence the necessity to carry our wool abroad in order that it might be made into cloth, and brought back again to England. It was Edward III. who first induced Flemings to settle in this country and engage in the manufacture of woollen goods. In early times, therefore, we may imagine that the chief business of Berkhamsted consisted in the trade in wool ; in later times it was quite changed. In the reign, for instance, of Queen Eliza- beth, Norden makes this observation, " It is a market town, and standeth most upon making of malt." And now it is changed again. Of the modern manufactures of Berkhamsted one certainly deserves notice at this particular time, I mean wood-working, because by this trade a considerable number of shaving-boxes and tent-pegs are daily supplied to the army from our town. To resume the history. The next fact we know concerning Berkhamsted is that the Castle was made the jointure-palace of 14 HISTOKY OF BEKKHAMSTED. Queen Isabella, the bride of King John. Soon afterwards, how- ever, it was granted to Geoffrey Fitz Piers Earl of Essex, and to his heirs by his wife Aveline, on payment of 100Z. per annum. This Earl of Essex was a person of great eminence. His opinion had great weight with his sovereign King John, and so long as he lived the King's government prospered. His death, which happened in the fourteenth year of the King's reign, threw the whole kingdom into a state of mourning ; for the whole realm, says the Historian, was then like a ship tossed in a tempest without a pilot. This famous man founded two hospitals in our town, dedicated the one to St. John Baptist, the other to St. John the Evangelist. Of these more hereafter. Fitz Piers was indeed a great and good man. If we desire a proof of this, we cannot have a better than the thorough dislike which King John had for him, notwithstanding his fear of him and his submission to his wise counsel. When the King heard of his death, it is related that he uttered words, which no doubt came from the bottom of his heart, to the effect that Fitz Piers had certainly gone to hell, and more than this, that he would certainly meet the Archbishop there. Geoffrey Fitz Piers died in 1212, and was succeeded by his son Geoffrey, who assumed the name of Mandeville, and married Avisa, the repudiated wife of King John. He espoused the cause of the Barons, and was thereupon deprived of this and other estates by the King. In 1215 (July 15) the Great Charter was signed, but it did not bring peace, and shortly afterwards, when the troubles with the Barons had become most formidable, the King took care to strengthen this castle as a precautionary measure, and entrusted it to the custody of one of his German mercenaries — by name Rainulph. John himself was here superintending these arrange- ments from the 2nd to the 4th April, 1216. He died on the 19th of October following. The Barons had already offered the Crown to Prince Louis, the King of France's eldest son, and HISTORY OF BEliKHAMSTED. 15 the husband of the Princess Blanche, King John's niece. Louis had been in the country since May, and the movement in his favour was by no means retarded by the news of the King's death. Our castle, however, still remained faithful to his son and successor ; and now took place perhaps the most interesting of all the events in the changeful history of our town, for it was on the feast of St. Nicholas, on the 6th December, in the year 1216, that Prince Louis, having already made himself master of Hertford, advanced against our castle at the head of a most for- midable army, and encamped it is said on the north side, proba- bly on the slope of White Hill. All the old writers agree in telling us that the place was most valiantly defended, and by one of these chroniclers (Matthew Paris) a very interesting anecdote is preserved, which fully testifies to the bravery of the garrison. One morning when the besiegers were off their guard a large party of the besieged rushed out of the castle, seized the chariots and provisions of their assailants, and carried off as a trophy the banner of William Earl Mandeville. One would have thought that such a sortie would have taught the besiegers a lesson not easily to be forgotten, but strange to say the very same afternoon, when the Barons were at dinner, the party from the castle sallied forth a second time, bearing at their head the banner they had won, and after throwing the camp of the enemy into the utmost confusion, and disarming the Barons as they sat at table, returned again within the castle walls. From this specimen of the heroism of the garrison we can easily under- stand the statement of Holinshed that " the captain and his people behaved themselves so manfully that a great number of Frenchmen and others of them without were left dead in the ditches." " Finally, however," he goes on to say, " about the 20th December, they yet yielded the place, because they were no longer able to keep it. Their lives, goods, and houses were spared." So much for the siege of Berkhamsted Castle, which happened in the reign of King Henry III., more than six hun- 16 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. dred years ago. The cause of the young King, however, ulti- mately prevailed, and at the close of the following year Prince Louis was obliged to leave the country, since all his hopes of success were now at an end. This castle, therefore, with the others which he had acquired, came again into the possession of the English royal family. The beginning of King Henry's reign was marked by a curious incident in the history of Berkham- sted, for it was on the 7th May, 1217, that our market day was changed from Sunday to Monday. Soon afterwards the Castle of Berkhamsted was granted by the King to his younger brother, the famous Richard Earl of Cornwall, better known as the King of the Romans. An account of the life of this illustrious man belongs more to English history than to a lecture such as the present. I may, however, be allowed to say that after the death of his second wife,* Isabel Countess of Gloucester, widow of the celebrated Gilbert de Clare, which occurred in child-bed in this castle, the Earl left England for the Holy Land, and whilst there obtained many privileges for the Christians at Jerusalem. During his absence Hubert de Burgh died at the Castle the 4th day of the Ides of May, in the year of our Lord 1243, " after many troubles and interchanges of fortune, being full of days and in good reputation." On Richard's return he married for a third wife Senchea, daughter of Raymond Count of Provence, and sister to his brother Henry's queen. The wedding was celebrated at Westminster in the year 1244, with extraordinary splendour ; indeed the chronicler tells us that thirty thousand dishes were served up at the banquet in honour of the occasion. We can understand this lavish expenditure when we remember that this Earl is said to have had so much treasure, that for ten years he was able to spend a hundred marks a day, i. e. about 661. 13s. Ad. (a mark being 13s. 4c?.), no small sum according to the standard of that time. The offspring of this marriage was Edmund, who on the death of Henry III. was made one of the * [He was first married as a child to Rose of Dover (Roese de Dovor).] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 17 guardians of the realm until Edward I. returned from the Crusades, and of whom, as the founder of Ashridge, we will speak afterwards. Soon after his third marriage the Earl was unanimously chosen King of the Romans, or heir presumptive of the Holy Roman Empire, as Germany was called in those days, and was crowned at Aix-la-Chapelle in 1257. His wife, the Princess Senchea, died in our castle a.d. 1261. The Earl then married again the daughter of a German nobleman.* Some- time afterwards, when on a visit to his brother the King of England, he came down to his castle of Berkhamsted, where he was taken ill, and died April 9, 1272. His brother the King died seven months afterwards. The Earl at his death was in the 64th year of his age. He was buried at Hailes Abbey in Gloucestershire, which he himself had founded, a.d. 1246. I may mention that in the State Paper Office are two letters written from Richard to the King from Berkhamsted Castle, one bearing the date of 1261, the other of 1263. I may also mention that this famous man obtained the grant of a fair for our town, beginning at the feast of the Invention of the Cross, May 3. No doubt too it was at his request that Henry III. confirmed the charter which, as we have before had occasion to remark, was originally granted to Berkhamsted by his grand- father^ The King of the Romans was succeeded in the Earl- dom of Cornwall, and in the custody of the castle, by his son Edmund, of whom we have already spoken. $ He died without * [June 16 1269, Beatrice, a beautiful woman, daughter of Theodoric de Falkenburg, and niece of Engelbert, Archbishop of Cologne.] f [In 1254 (Cussans, p. 51) Eichard, according to the annals of Dunstable, added to the castle a new tower of three stories covered with lead. The record states that for the works at the castle he caused much timber to be taken from the wood of Soingdone, which did great harm to the trade of Dunstable by reason of the carts of the neighbourhood being impressed for the carriage thereof. Bearing date 1256, there is an interesting charter of confirmation by Eichard, Earl of Cornwall and Poictou of grants of lands in the honour of Berkhampstede, preserved at Claydon House, communicated by Mr. Clark to Arch. Journal, vol. xxxiv. No. 134.] % [In the annals of Dunstable there is a curious entry respecting a cart con- C 18 HISTOKY OF BERKHAMSTED. issue, and the castle then reverted to his cousin King Edward I. Edmund appears to have neglected the castle, and spent all his energy on the new foundation at Ashridge, for by an inquisition taken immediately after his death, and preserved in the Tower, we find that the castle as to its issues was worth nothing per annum : also that there were houses without the castle, Daerya, Boveya, and Bercar, let to farm for the sustentation of the same houses, also without the castle a certain great stable worth nothing yearly in its present state. This interesting record proceeds to enumerate " a great garden and a small garden; a certain mill -pool, with a ditch round the castle, the fishery whereof was yearly worth twenty shillings : a water-mill ; the mill of Synebemulle, worth yearly 61. 13$. 4d. ; the mill of the castle, worth yearly 8/.; North Mill; a certain park with deer, the pasture with pannage for the support of the deer, worth yearly ten shillings; a certain wood called Del Frith, which contains in itself 763 acres and one rood ; and a common as well for the free-men as the villains of Berkhamsted by the year, excepting the time of pannage — i.e. between the feast of St. Michael and the feast of St. Martin — and common for the Kector of Asherug and all his tenants for the whole year, as well in the time of pannage as at other times, and the said rector shall have house-boot and hey-boot out of the said wood. Also the master of the house of St. Thomas the Martyr of Aeon holds to him one free messuage and one virgate of land in Berk- hamsted; . . also that Bartholomew Cryol, lord of Alderbury in the same vill, had free ingress and regress from the wood of the Frith, and ought to mow in one of the parks with 16 men, provided with food by the lord, one day ; and the work of every man was worth one penny ; and he himself, or his servant, shall ride or go to view the workmen, and he shall have meat of the lord twice in the day. . ." taining fish for Edmund's dinner at Berkhamsted stopped for toll in Dunstable market. There seem to have been constant quarrels respecting the liberties of Dunstable and Berkhamsted.] HISTOllY OF BERKHAMSTED. 19 I may remark, by the way, on this curious document that portions of the boundary fence of the Castle Park still exist on the common, and that from the wood here mentioned the village of Frithsden derives its name. King Edward I. made the castle and manor of Berkhamsted the dower of his second queen, Margaret, daughter of Philip, King of France, who died in the year 1317. It was in this reign that a native of our town, John of Berkhamsted, was pro- moted to the pastoral staff of the Abbey of St. Alban. Weever tells us that he was a man who applied his mind wholly to works of piety and to prayers for the health of his soul. By King Edward II. the castle was granted to his favourite Piers Gaveston. It was here that he married the King's niece. Edward himself was present, and the festivities were celebrated on a magnificent scale. After the death of Gaveston the castle was successively granted to William Montacute and to John de la Haye. We next come to the long and glorious reign of Edward III. —a reign glorious not only for Berkhamsted, but also for all England. Edward first granted the castle to his younger brother John, and after his death it was chosen by the King himself as his own place of residence, and put by him into a complete state of repair, as befitted the palace of so august a monarch. We find indeed from a curious document to which I shall have occasion to refer afterwards* that it was necessary to expend upon the repairs of the castle no less a sum than 658£. — according to the then value of money a very large amount. Our castle therefore now was one of the chief residences of the King and royal family. There are still in existence several in- teresting letters or warrants written by King Edward from this place, chiefly during the twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth years of his reign. One with the date an. 12 contains direc- tions to the Abbot of St. Albans to fortify the coast of Essex. * Vide page 28 and Appendix II. c 2 20 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. Another, written in the same year, is addressed to the Lords Lieutenant of Cambridgeshire and Huntingdonshire, and directs ten oaks to be cut down in those counties in order to repair the habitation of the Royal Scholars at Cambridge. Another, of the same date, regulates the measures in use in North Wales. In the following year we find a letter to the Lord Mayor concerning the establishment of a sort of police in the city of London. Again, in a letter bearing the date an. 13, April 15, the King orders that a silver mine, which was reported to have been dis- covered at " Welles " in Somerset, should be worked, and the proceeds brought into the royal treasury. Another letter of this year is addressed to the Chancellor of Oxford, and contains an order for the erection of a cross prope Bocheriam in the parish of Mary Magdalen in altd strata de petrd et calce. Another (an. 13) is de cerd renovandd circa corpus Edw. /.* Another (an 14) contains inquiries into the burning of Spondon in Derbyshire, and promises a remission of subsidies. Such were some of the letters written by the King from his royal residence at Berkhamsted. I may mention here as a proof of the importance of our town in this reign, that, in the council holden at Westminster anno 11 Edw. III. Thomas Glen- ticorps, John le Cok, and John Blakket, were elected to repre- sent this borough ; and in the parliament holden at that place three years after, a.d. 1341, John Bartlet and John Hammond were chosen burgesses for this borough, and are the only per- sons recorded as having served this office. The King's eldest son, the famous Black Prince, spent many of his early years within the walls of our castle, and it was to him as Duke of Cornwall that his father gave the castle, manor, and town of Berkhamsted, to hold to him and the heirs of him, and the eldest sons of the heirs of the kings of England and the dukes of the said place for ever. From the Black Prince, in due order of succession, the castle is now * Vide Archaeologia, vol. iii. 376. HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 21 inherited by the present Prince of Wales as Duke of Corn- wall.* Berkhamsted Castle therefore now became the constant resi- dence of the Black Prince's family, and of the Black Prince himself as often as his brilliant victories allowed him to return to England. It was from Berkhamsted that he chose many of his officers ; " Henry of Berkhampstede " was his marshal, and six picked men went over with him from our town to fight the French at Crecy. It was within the walls of our castle that he used to entertain all the princes and nobles of the land ; and one of these festive occasions, interesting as being the last on which he saw his beloved mother Queen Philippa, is thus strik- ingly commemorated by the historian Froissart: "I John Froissart will literally say what in my younger days I heard at a mansion called Berkhamsted, distant from London 30 miles, and which at the time I am speaking of, in the year of our Lord 1361, belonged to the Prince of Wales, father to King Richard. As the prince and princess were about to leave England for Aquitaine, to hold their state, the King of England, Queen Philippa my mistress, the Dukes of Clarence, Lancaster, the Lord Edmund who was afterwards Earl of Cambridge and Duke of York, with their children, came to this mansion to visit the prince and to take leave of him. I was at that time twenty- four years old, and Clerk of the Chamber to my Lady the Queen. During this visit, as I was seated on a bench, I heard the following conversation from an ancient knight (Sir Bartho- lomew Burghersh) to some of the ladies of the Queen. He said there was in that country a book called Brut, which many say contains the prophecies of Merlin. According to its contents * [By the kindness of Sir Albert Woods (Garter) I am informed that William Augustus, third son of George, Prince of Wales (afterwards George II.), was created Marquess of Berkhampsted, by patent dated 27 July, 1726. He was at the same time created Duke of Cumberland, and was the " victor of Culloden." He died without issue in 1765, when the title became extinct. It has not been regranted since.] 22 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. neither the Prince of Wales nor Duke of Clarence, though sons to King Edward, will wear the crown of England, but it will fall to the house of Lancaster. When the knight said this, the Earl of Derby was not born : his birth was seven years after- wards. This prophecy however was verified, for I have since seen Henry Earl of Derby king of England." They say that next to seeing a man himself is seeing his house or the scenes amid which he passed his life. Surely then, when we wander amongst the ruins of our castle, we may in some degree be enabled to realize to ourselves the glories of Edward the Black Prince, and even the entertaining gossip of his court. Immediately after the departure of the Black Prince for the continent, Berkhamsted Castle was for a time made the resid- ence of his illustrious captive John King of France, who was removed here by order of the King from Somerton Castle in Somersetshire. We are further told that on the final return of the Prince from France it was to this castle that he retired, choosing to pass the latter years of his life in comparative solitude, amid scenes which had naturally become endeared to him, associated as they were with his earliest and happiest recollections. His life was not long spared : he became subject to fits, several of which took place in Berkhamsted Castle. His death however occurred at Westminster, whither he had gone to meet the parliament, an exertion which in his exhausted state proved too much for him. Upon the death of the Black Prince the castle passed to his son Richard, afterwards Richard II., during whose lifetime Robert de Vere, Marquis of Dublin and Duke of Ireland, was permitted to reside in it, with leave to take wood and fuel out of the royal woods and park for firing. It was under this monarch that Geoffrey Chaucer, the father of English poetry, held the appointment of clerk of the works at Berkhamsted Castle. On the death of King Richard, the ancient prophecy HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 23 related by Froissart was duly fulfilled, and our castle, as one of the royal residences, fell into the possession of Henry IV., the head of the house of Lancaster. He granted it to his eldest son, afterwards the famous Henry V., whom he created Duke of Cornwall. From him it passed to his son, who as Henry VI. often resided here during those fierce and vindictive contests the Wars of the Roses. He was here, for instance, with tho judges when he received news of the second battle of St. Albans. When, however, fortune favoured the claims of Edward of York, the Lancastrians were dispossessed, and this castle, together with all the other royal palaces, became the property of the Yorkist king. Upon his accession to the throne he entrusted the stewardship of the castle and lordship to John Lord Wenlock. Edward seems to have regarded Berkhamsted with favour, for in the sixteenth year of his reign he renewed and confirmed the ancient charter, which, as I have before remarked, was granted to our town by King Henry II. The copy of this renewed charter, which is now hung up in the vestry,* is extracted from the records of the manor of New Elm Court, Castle of Wallingford. In it the Constable of Wallingford, the Duke of Suffolk, by command of his sovereign, confirms the privileges granted by previous monarchs to Berk- hamsted and Wallingford, and directs amongst other things in addition that no market be held within eleven miles in any village near Wallingford or Berkhamsted, and also that the men and tradesmen of these towns, their heirs and successors, be not impanelled and summoned in any assize, &c. This renewed and extended charter was u given at the Castle of Wallingford the 24th day of March, in the sixteenth year of the reign of King Edward the Fourth after the Conquest." In accordance with the last declaration of this important charter, a claim for exemption from serving on juries was pre- ferred, as you are probably aware, a short time ago, and » * [Now in the custody of the vestry clerk.] 24 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. decided by a judgment, bearing date February 7, 1840, in favour of the inhabitants of this town.* Soon after the grant of this charter, Berkhamsted Castle was selected as the place of residence for King Edward's mother, the Duchess of York, who lived in it until the time of her death, which occurred here in May 1495. As in duty bound, I must just say a word or two in passing about this remark- able, this right royal woman. Her name was Cicely. Born at Raby Castle, the daughter of Ralph Neville, Earl of West- moreland, she early acquired her well-merited title, u The Rose of Raby." Her mother was Joan Beaufort, and there- fore Cicely was the granddaughter of John of Gaunt, the founder of the House of Lancaster. By her marriage with Richard Duke of York, the head of the house of York, she became connected with this the great rival house, as also with the houses of Cambridge and Mortimer. Thus famous and full of honours in her own right and in her hus- band's, she became yet more famous if not more happy in her children. She lived to see three princes of her body crowned ; namely, her sons Edward IV. and Richard III., and Elizabeth her grand- daughter, the Queen of Henry VII. ; and one also to ascend the throne, but who was not crowned, her grandson Edward V. ; and she lived too to see four who came to untimely deaths, — her son, George Duke of Clarence, drowned in a butt of Malmsey ; Richard III. killed at the battle of Bosworth. Field ; and Edward and Richard her grandsons, who were smothered in their beds in the Tower. All this I say she lived to see ; and, when we consider that during this eventful period she lived in our castle, and that when she had seen all these things it was in our castle also that she died, I think the thought cannot fail to give us an interest in the history of our country at that memorable age such as we should not else possess. * [All these ancient exemptions are now abolished by the Act 33 & 34 Vict. cap. 77, sec. 9.] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 25 Some writers have asserted that it was in our castle she gave birth to Richard III., but it would seem hard to prove this when we consider that at the time of his birth the castle was in the possession of the Lancastrians. He was probably born at Fother- ingay, and with that probability I am sure we shall be well content, for, if we may trust Shakspeare, we need not be at all anxious to claim such a monster as a native of Our town. His mother hated him as much as ever we can do. You remember, perhaps, how in the play of Richard III. — a play in which our Duchess is one of the most conspicuous characters, she addresses him as il Thou toad, thou toad." And then again there are those fine lines, Act iv. scene 4, wherein she says to him, No, by the holy rood, thou know'st it well, Thou cam'st on earth to make the earth my hell. A grievous burden was thy birth to me : Tetchy and wayward was thy infancy ; Thy schooldays frightful, desperate, wild, and furious. Thy prime of manhood, daring, bold, and venturous ; Thy age confirmed, proud, subtle, sly, and bloody, More mild but yet more harmful, kind in hatred ; What comfortable hour canst thou name That ever graced me in thy company ? I must not however detain you with quotations from Shak- speare, for I daresay you did not expect to hear anything about Shakspeare in connection with the history and antiquities of Berkhamsted ; yet there is one more fine passage, in which the Duchess speaks of her troubles and looks forward to her death. Act ii. scene 4 : — Accursed and unquiet wrangling days ! How many of you have mine eyes beheld ! My husband lost his life to get the crown ; And often up and down my sons were tossed, For me to joy and weep their gain and loss ; And being seated, and domestic broils Clean over-blown, themselves, the conquerors, Make war upon themselves : brother to brother, Blood to blood, self against self : O preposterous And frantic courage, end thy damned spleen ; Or let me die, to look on death no more ! 26 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. Such was the famous Duchess Cicely, — " Proud Cis," — who lived and died in Berkhamsted Castle.* At the time of her death, A.d. 1495, a new dynasty, the house of Tudor, had become firmly settled on the throne in the person of Henry VII., a prince who had been wise enough however to consolidate his title by uniting himself in marriage to the Princess Elizabeth, the daughter of Edward IV., and, therefore, the granddaughter of our Duchess. In the Privy Purse Expenses of this princess is the following entry relating to Berkhamsted : " 5th July, 1502. Itm. the same day, to the underkeeper of Berkehampsted, for bringing of a buck to the Quene at Windsore, iiis. ivd." After the death of the famous Duchess Cicely,' the castle seems to have been untenanted, and, as is the case even now-a- days with most empty houses, signs of decay were not long in shewing themselves. f We know indeed that about forty years afterwards, when Leland the antiquary visited Berkhamsted, the castle appeared to be " much in ruine " even then. More ruin would soon follow, and the building was no doubt in a very dilapidated condition when in Queen Elizabeth's time it was granted on lease to Sir Edward Cary, at the nominal rent of a red rose, to be paid annually on the feast of St. John the Baptist. It was Sir Edward Cary who built the house now occupied by General FinchJ on the top of the hill, which he considered a more eligible situation. In all probability, there- fore, many of the materials of the old castle would be used in the construction of the new mansion, which, I must tell you, was once nearly three times as large as it is at present. But of this we will say more afterwards. Our castle then, whatever honour it may claim, can certainly * [Vide Appendix VII. No. 2 and 3.] f [King Henry VIII. granted it to Anne Boleyn as dower, 21st March, anno reg. 25.] % [Now, 1883, the property of Earl Brownlow — occupied by Lady Sarah Spencer. The Castle, which is granted to Earl Brownlow at a peppercorn rent, is still the property of the Prince of Wales as Duke of Cornwall.] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 27 lot lay claim to that to which so many others pretend, the lonour I mean of having been destroyed by Oliver Cromwell, for we have seen that it came to its end long before his time, and died in fact a kind of natural death. I have so far endeavoured to give you an outline of the his- tory of our once famous castle. Let us now try to gather from the remains which still exist, and from any documents which may serve to throw light upon the subject, some idea of what the building used to be in the days of its grandeur. For con- venience sake, let us divide the castle into three parts : the great mound, the inner court or ballium, and the ramparts —which include the walk all round, and the outworks or bastions on the northern and eastern sides leading to the meadow. Each of these divisions is separately protected by a ditch, so that, speak- ing generally, we may say that the castle was defended by a triple moat.* When occasion required, the position of the whole area might be rendered still further insular, since the southern and western sides could obviously be entirely flooded by damming up the stream, which otherwise is allowed to flow on regularly in its course. The canal and railway have of course much altered the capabilities and means of defence f on this the town side of the castle; but we can easily understand, that, with a large lake in front, and perhaps a narrow causeway across, forming the sole mode of access from the town, a hostile approach from that quarter was well nigh impossible. This, however, was the regular road from Berkhamsted to the castle, as is evident from the remains of the great entrance} in the ramparts, in reaching which I conceive a drawbridge from the ■ * The actual double external moat terminates however about the middle of the eastern side. f In talking of the defences of the castle, of course we must bear in mind that these could only be strong so far as bows and arrows are concerned ; because the position is at once commanded both by General Finch's and White Hill. % It must be remembered that this is not the present entrance. The entrance of which I speak is in a direct line with Castle Street, and is not now used. 28 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. causeway had first to be crossed. From this outer gateway or barbican, as it is called in the interesting document to which I have had occasion previously to refer,* to the great entrance opposite, of which the remains are also plainly visible, there must have been across the deep and broad moat which intervenes a second and more important drawbridge. Having now reached the grand gateway, we enter at once into the inner court. In this area were situated the dwelling-places and the domestic offices. Here too were to be found the chapels, at least three of which seem to be mentioned in the document to which I have referred ; and here also stood the banqueting-hall, described in the same roll as the "great painted chamber" ; so called pro- bably because hung round with tapestry. All the quarried stone of which these buildings were constructed has evidently been removed, probably for the purpose, already alluded to, of building the new mansion at the top of the hill. The existence of the only remains which have survived the hands of the spoiler is owing to the vileness of the materials, composed as they are of nothing but flints and lumps of chalk, with here and there a rough coating of plaster. Such are the ruins which remain to this day : portions of wall of great thickness, with the founda- tions at intervals of massive towers. At the north-east angle of this wall seems to have been what is called in the roll the Derne-gate, from which a road over three several drawbridges formerly led into the park. The wall then runs along towards the west gate of the castle — the road, i.e. by which we enter at the present day. Along this portion of the walls are the remains of the towers, also mentioned in the roll. Here too it is that we discover perhaps the only trace of habitation which occurs in the castle — in what seems to have been the side-wall of a chamber containing a sort of cupboard. There were similar * Vide page 19. As this interesting document does not appear to have heen noticed by any of the county historians, perhaps I may be excused for inserting it in the Appendix No. II. HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 29 apartments in all the towers, and along the walls ran galleries of )mmunication. I must now speak a word or two about the mound or keep. This was the usual appendage of all Norman castles. It was the place of final retreat in case the rest of the castle fell into the hands of the enemy. Our mound has evidently been moated round, and there are still traces of the bridge of communication almost in a line with the two bridges of entrance. The summit is crowned by a circular tower, and a hollow in the centre is still visible, which may have served either as a dungeon or a well.* Such are the remains of our castle which still exist — the all that is left of painted chambers and stately halls, well kept no doubt, and nobly adorned as befitted the state of their royal occupants. No sooner however were they untenanted than decay commenced its work. We have heard that when Leland visited Berkhamsted, when the castle had been empty only forty years, it was even then " to his sight much in mine." Its fall seems to have afterwards rapidly hastened on, since in the beginning of the next century Camden tells us that it was a heap of stones and ruined walls. A hundred years more rolled on, and then again we hear it described by another visitor (Salmon), as a building with most of the outer walls and chim- neys remaining, and all the windows opening to the inside. A similar description is given by Dr. Stukeley,f who says that the windows looked inwards, and that the chapel seems to have stood near the west wall, where there are signs of a staircase. Another period of a hundred years brings us down to our own days, and now even these traces are gone — windows, chimneys, * [For a further description of the castle, vide Appendix VII. 1.] f There is a scarce print of the castle in Dr. Stnkeley's Itinerary, bearing the date of 1724. It is taken from above White Hill, on which a windmill is a conspicuous object. The view of the castle walls is not obscured by the surround- ing trees. General Finch's avenue occupies a prominent position on the right. There is another plate of apoi*tion of the ruins in Grose's Antiquities, 1773-87. 30 HISTOllY OF BE11KHAMSTED. and staircases there are none. Walls there certainly are, but so hopelessly ruinous that the remains do little more than mark their original site. I have now tried to give you some idea of what the castle used to be, taking as my guide the remains which still exist and the documents which throw light upon the subject. We have already heard its history, and connecting these two things together — the castle annals, I mean, and the castle walls — we may have been enabled in some degree to realize to ourselves its glories of olden time. Its towers have witnessed many a feat of war, its courts have rung with many a shout of joy ; kings and queens and princes have lived and died within its walls, and now its towers are gone, its courts are grass-grown, its massive walls are crumbling fast to dust. Let us remember what this castle lias been : let us look upon it as it is ; and, if I am not very much mistaken, we may become wiser and more thoughtful men. So far the history of our town has been connected with the history of its castle : we must now leave that, and proceed to connect our annals with the antiquities which still remain in full preservation among us. Before doing this, however, it may be worth our while to take a general glance at our town in the period of what may be called its transition state. I have told you that at this time Leland the antiquary visited Berkhamsted — I will now read to you what he says respecting it. He is speaking of the approach "from Dunstable by Marget and St. Leonards (?) and from . . (Great Gaddesden?), where the Lord of Darbye hath a pretty manor place of tymber . . . thens by Chiltern Hilles, and baren, woody, and feme ground for the most parte, the soile waxing chalky and flinty as al Chiltern ys 5 a 3. to Barkhamstede, where is an old large castelle, in a roote of an hille standing somewhat low and environed with a motej to the which as I could perceive part of the water of the ryver there hard by doth resorte; I markid diverse towers in the HISTORY OF BEHKHAMSTED. 31 midle warde of this castelle and the dungeon hill ; but to my sight it is much in mine. The house of Bonehoms, caullid Asscheruge, of the fundation of Edmunde Erie of Cornwalle and owner of Berckhamstede Castel, is about a mile off, and there the King lodgid. After that I had viewed the castle, I passid over the ryver, wheras is a bridge of wood. . . . Berk- hamstede is one of the best markette townes in Hertfordeshire, and hath a large strete metely well builded from the north to the south) and another, but sumwhat lesser, from the west to the east, where the ryver rennith. The church is yn the midle of the town. In the bottom of the ryver of eche side be very faire meadowes. There I passed by hilly, woody, and much baren ground to Cheynes, a v. miles of." Such is Leland's description of Berkhamsted as it appeared three hundred years ago. From other sources, we find that the two streets were called then, as now, High Street and Castle Street. In the latter was a great house adjoining the school, with a close behind and a close before, occupied after the Dis- solution by the last Rector of Ashridge, and probably by other members of the Waterhouse family, of whom more hereafter. In the High Street was an inn, called in olden time " The Sarson's Head"; but in Henry VIII. 's time " the signeof the George." This ancient hostel, which was afterwards known as the " Prince's Arms," is now represented by the houses occu- pied by Mr. Norris and Mr. Richard Wood. This property was rented in those days by one John Alle, as was also the next house, then called Monmouth's. Mr. Holloway's house was then " a great tenement called Incents," and in Dean Incent's time was let to one Richard Weller. Mr. E. Austin's house is described in the Dean's rental book as a little tenement by the side of the former, at the corner of Elvey or Elvyne Lane* This lane has lost its pretty title, and received in exchange the rather indifferent one of Grubb, probably from some member of that family which so frequently figures in the pages of the early 32 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. registers. I am sure, however, you will all agree with me that its rightful name of Elvey Lane cannot be too speedily restored. The lane next Bridewell was called, — not as now Cox, but — " Cokke Lane," a name which it probably received from an old inn of the sign of the " Cock," which we find to have formerly existed in that part of the street. The foot-road which runs behind the town from this into Gillam's Lane was named Greenway Lane. The end of the town towards Northchurch was called as now Gossam's End, receiving its name probably from some member of the Gossam family, of which also many entries occur in the early registers. The Common was then known by the name of the " common hethe," the river by the mill the common river; higher up, St James's stream, whether from some confusion with St. John's well I cannot say. The fields adjoining this part of the river and behind Mr. Squire's house were called the Spital Meads and the Island Meadow. The whole stream as you are well aware is now known by the name of the Bulbourne. Other local names which existed at this period are Hunger Hill, Oxlade, Philip's Lane, Myddell Hill, the Pightle,* St. Edmund's Field, Coppid Hall, Harefote- end, Whelpley Hill (there are many Whelpleys in the registers), Fridaye Strete, and Rotten Row, near the Castle Mill. So you see there was formerly a Rotten Row in Berkhamsted just as now there is a Rotten Row in Hyde Park. Whether the name be a corruption of " Routine " we cannot say. Doubtless, how- ever, along our Rotten Row, there have passed many routines or processions to and from the Castle. So much for our ancient local names. With regard to our proper names, it is interesting to see how many occurring in the early registers are still to be found in our town. I have not attempted to make anything like a com- plete list of them, but amongst those which I have noticed as occurring most frequently are the following : Podefat, Clarke, * A pightle is properly a piece of meadow land between two woods. HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 33 Weedon, Pratt, Preston, Norwood, Martyn, Holt, Halsey, Greene, Dell, Cooke, Austin, Butterfield, Tomkyns, Rolfe, Colly ns, Stanborow, Turney, Holyday, Parky ns, Hunt, &c. On the other hand, in the early registers we find many names which in our days have no existence among us. Such are Waterhouse (gent.), Axtell, Surman, Babb, Atwell, Blunt (gent.), Gossam, Lessom, Whelpley, Philips, Alle, Borne, Benning, Bower, Hudnall, Grubb, &c. All these names occur in the parish register before the commencement of the seven- teenth century. I may here remark that our registers, which are for the most part well kept, commence from a.d. 1538, the year in which register books were first appointed to be kept by the advice of Lord Cromwell. The earlier books contain many quaint entries ; among these are the following : February 1549, Homo Pawper, buried; September 17, 1643, Margery Hollond, an antient mayde, buried; February 9, 1681, Wylliam Axtyll, widower, fiovo(j>0a\fio^, was buried. But I must return from this long digression, and proceed to call your attention to the Mansion House, Berkhamsted House, Place, Manor House, Bury or Castle as it has been variously called, for, as it succeeded the old Castle, so the history of the town is to a certain degree involved in its history. The house was built, as we have before remarked, by Sir Edward Cary, to whom the property was granted on lease by Queen Elizabeth, in the second year of her reign. This Sir Edward Cary was Master of the Jewel House to Queen Elizabeth and King James. He is also described as of Aldenham, Herts, where, indeed, ho chiefly resided, and where he was buried in 1618. He was de- scended from an ancient Devonshire family, the Carys of Cock- ington, who trace their origin to Adam de Karry, first Lord of Castle Karry, co. Somerset, in the 13th century. The new house, which is described by Camden in his Britannia as i( a noble and exceeding pleasant seat," was tenanted first whilst Sir D 34 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. Edward was still living by his brother Adolphus, who was knighted by King James at Whitehall, in the third year of his reign. Sir Adolphus died without issue, and was buried in the church here, April 10, 1609.* It is his helmet which still hangs by the side of a pillar in the north transept. Chauncy tells us that his banners were taken down not long before his time, having hung as long as they could. The house was next occupied by Sir Edward's son Henry ,f who was created Lord Falkland, and was father of the cele- brated Lucius Cary the second viscount. It is certainly, there- fore, worth remembering that General Finch's house was built by the grandfather and occupied by the father, and so was the early home of that illustrious boy, destined to play in after-life so conspicuous a part in the history of his country. All who have read the great Lord Clarendon's writings will at once call to mind the passage in which he characterizes Lord Falkland as "a nobleman of most prodigious learning, of the most exem- plary manners and singular good nature, of the most unblemished integrity, and the greatest ornament of the nation that any age hath produced." The house which, owing doubtless to some previous agree- ment, was sold by Sir Edward to Prince Henry for its full value, seems however to have remained in the occupation of the Cary family until 1616, i. e. two years before old Sir Edward's death, when it was granted on lease by King James to the Murrays. This lease dates from 19th June, 1616. It was * The following entry is taken from the parchment register preserved in the Church:— " 1609, Aprill 10. Sir Adolphus Carye, Knighte, a most loving benefactour to y e poore of this towne, was buried." f There is a very interesting account of Sir Henry in Wood's Athene, i. 585. Of his children, Lucius was probably born at Burford. A son and daughter were born here, as may be seen k by the following entries, which occur in the same register : — " 1613. Oct. 5. Lorenzo, ye sonne of Sir Henrye Carye, Knighte, was bapt." According to Wood, Lorenzo graduated at Ex Coll., Oxford, June 30, 1630.—" 1614. December 4. Anne, y e daughter of Sir Henrye Carye, Knighte." [Sir Henry was cousin of the Queen's cousin Henry Cary, Lord Hunsdon.] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 35 confirmed in 1619. Chauncy says, u These Morays were an ancient family in Scotland, and Mrs. Moray, who lived here in the time of King James I., was nurse to King Charles I., and her husband was also his secretary, as I have been informed." This last circumstance is no doubt true, because we find that Thomas Murray* was tutor and secretary to the Prince, and afterwards Provost of Eton : but, with respect to the first of these statements, Chauncy must probably have been misin- formed. It is indeed just possible that Mrs. Murray may have been nurse to the Prince when in Scotland, but it is quite certain that neither she nor any one else ever nursed him here. Her connection with the court may have furnished grounds for the statement which Chauncy records, for we find that she was Lady of the Privy Chamber to the Prince's mother, and was one of the mourners at her funeral. She could not however, as I have said, ever have nursed the young Charles here, because he was nursed at Dun- fermline, where he was born in 1600, and where he was left under the guardianship of Lord Fife ; and when he was four years old he was put under the care of Sir Robert and Lady Cary and brought up by them. In the Autobiography of Sir Robert, who afterwards became Earl of Monmouth, is a very full and most interesting account of the education of the Prince. This earl was the son of Queen Elizabeth's cousin, Henry Cary * See his life in Harwood's Alumni Etonenses ; also Wood, Ath. i. 468. The children of this Thomas Murray by his wife Jane were Henry ; William (bapt. 27th July, 1617) ; John ("agloryeto himself by learning "), bur. 1634, Sept. 17 ; James (? buried in chancel). Henry's children by his wife Anne were Henry (bapt. 16th June, 1631, buried 26th March, 1641); Charles; Ann (bapt. October 21, 1641.) [Ann, wife of Sir James Walcott, alludes to a lease made by the late King of the park to her mother Jane Murray, 1661, June 17 : " Said Anne pleads that she lost the lease of Berkhamsted, not daring to stay in England after the Duke of York's escape, and now it is otherwise disposed of." — Communicated by Mrs- E. Green, Cal. of Roll Papers, p. 10.] D2 36 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. Lord Hunsdon, whose family was a younger branch of the Carys of Cockington, the representative of the elder branch of which was the Sir Edward Cary of whom we have spoken as residing at Berkhamsted. His son Henry, the second Earl of Monmouth, who is buried at Rickmans worth, was educated with the Prince. It is pro- bably, therefore, owing to some confusion made by Salmon or his informants between these two branches of the Cary family, added to a hasty acquiescence in the tradition preserved by Chauncy, that the further and fuller statement occurs in his (Salmon's) History, that " Prince Henry and Prince Charles were bred up in the Manor House here." As for Prince Henry, he was born at Stirling in 1594, and nursed there by Lord and Lady Marr, so that his being brought up here is out of the question ; and as for the tradition that Prince Charles was nursed here, the circumstances I have just mentioned may pos- sibly furnish a sufficient explanation. The next event on which we have to remark will serve to shew us in what light we ought to regard Prince Charles as con- nected with our town. It was about two months after the Murrays had entered upon the property, when the king had been thirteen years on the throne, that Berkhamsted was honoured by a visit from the young Prince, then sixteen years old. In all probability he would be accompanied by his tutor, and he may have come down to see the country house which Mr. Murray had just rented from his royal master as a residence for his family. We find the following curious entry of this interest- ing event quoted by Clutterbuck from an old vestry book which is now unfortunately lost : " The noble Prince Charles came the 14th August, 1616, from Windsore, by Beaconsfield, to this towne. A number of twenty or thereabouts of the townsmen mett him at the hithermost or nearest corner of Brickilne Green, and rode before his highnesse two and two into the towne: then they uncovered their heads, and so roade on HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 37 till they came att the church stile in the Castle Street, where his highnesse made a stand to hear an oration pronounced by- one of the schollers of the free schole. Now, which being ended, the same townsmen roade on as before up unto the hill before the gate,* where partynge themselves one from another to the righte and to the lefte, a lane was made for his highnesse to pass up to the gate; and in the afternoon his highnesse hunted and killed a fat buck, which he gave to those the townsmen that attended him. The next day his highnesse road towards Abbot's Langley, and dyned at the house of Sir James Fullarton — the townesmen attended him from the gate to the town's-end lane, and roade on before him till they came to Boxe-Moor, and then returned." It is plain, from this interesting narrative, that the Prince slept at the Mansion House (General Finch's), then recently rented by his tutor ; though, from the fact of no reception being mentioned, we may conclude that in all probability the new tenants had not yet established themselves in the house; indeed, we have no proof positive of their residence here until the year following, when we find in the old register the following entry: "William, son of the worshipfull Thomas Murrie, esquire, was baptized y e xviith of July, 1617." As we have now arrived in our annals in the middle of a reign of so much importance to Berkhamsted, it may be well to remark upon the many proofs of his regard which King James exhibited for this town. First, we may mention that he gave 100/. as a benefaction to the poor of the parish. With this money a piece of land was bought at Ashley Green, the rent of which is now carried to the bread fund ; but chiefly it becomes us to narrate, that it was this King who, by a new charter, dated Westminster, July 18, in the sixteenth year of his reign, con- firmed all the ancient privileges which we have already alluded * i. e. the old gateway to General Finch's house ; it is now pulled down : for a description of it, hereafter. 38 HISTOEY OF BERKHAMSTED. to as granted to this town by earlier monarehs. On the 12th June, 1598, the ancient charter had been confirmed by Queen Elizabeth, and Princes Kisborough made to share its benefits ; but by King James, at the request of the inhabitants, these former privileges were so far extended and enlarged as fully to justify in the case of this new deed the application par excel- lence of the title, u The Charter." The original document, a copy of which is preserved in the parish chest, is so long, that I must not attempt to give it to you in full, more especially since it is all written in Latin. I will however read to you an abstract made at the same time, and also preserved in the chest. It is as follows : — " Barkhamsted created a free borough towne ; " That y e inhabitants should bee one body corporate and politicke ; " By y e same name to have a perpetuall succession ; "By y e name of Bayliffe and Burgesses to implead and answer ; " The bayliffe and burgesses to have a common seale ; " Fra. Barker, sen., appointed to be y e first bayliffe, who was to be sworne before y e twelve chiefe burgesses, and to con- tinue from the date of the lett s pattents untill Michas. foil., and from thence untill another of y e burgesses and inhabi- tants should be elected and sworne ; " To be twelve of y e burgesses, who should be called y e chiefe burgesses,* who, together with the bayliffe for y e time being, should be and be called y e common councell, and should be assistant to y e bayliffe in all causes and matt s concerning y e towne ; " Twelve .psons nominated and made y e cheife burgesses, to continue in that office quamdiu se bene gererent, who were * It may be interesting to notice that, amongst the twelve original burgesses appointed by the charter, we find the following names: — Thomas Newman, B.D., Rector of the parish, and Thomas Hunt, M.A., Master of the Grammar School, HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 39 to take their oaths before y e bayliffe for y e true execution of their office ; u That it should be lawfull for y e bayliffe and burgesses to have a certain councell-house or guild-hall within y e borough ; " That there should be a recorder, to be elected as afterwards expressed; "That he should exercise y e office at y e will and pleasure of y e bayliffe and burgesses, or y e major pte of y m , whereof y e bayliffe was to be one, and that y e recorder was to take his oath before y e bailiffe and chiefe burgesses, or four of y m ; " That y e bayliffe and burgesses should yearely elect, on Monday next before Mich as , a cofnon clerke, who was to execute y e office for one whole yeare, and if he should happen to dye within y c yeare, then to choose another within eight days to continue clerke for y e residue of y° yeare ; " That a principall burgesse or bayliffe designed, being one of y e twelve chiefe burgesses, should be elected yearly on Munday before Mich as , and to be sworne, and to continue ' for one whole yeare, and then to be elected and chosen into y e offiee of bayliffe of y e borough for one whole yeare ; "If y e bailiffe or principall burgesse should happen to dye or be removed from his office within y e yeare, then another, being one of y e cheife burgesses, to be chosen in his roome for y e residue of y e yeare; " That y e bayliffe, recorder, and principall burgesse for y e time being, and every of y m , should be justice of y e peace within y e borough ; " That there should be two officers, who should be called ^vientes ad clavam, to be elected yearely on Munday before Mich 98 for one whole yeare ; " That y e bayliffe and burgesses should have and hold within 40 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. y e borough, one court of record, to be holden on Tuesday, once in every month ; " That they should have within y e borough a prison or goale, and that y e bailiffe should be y e keeper of y e same ; " That they should keep one markett on Thursday in every weeke, besides y e ancient markett kept on Munday ; " Two faires granted, viz., one on Shrove Munday and y e other on Witson-Munday in every yeare, besides y e ancient faire on St. James's day." Such is the outline] of our charter, which concludes with the expression of the royal will to restore the town and re-establish it in all its pristine dignity and opulence, and to that end, says the monarch, " for ourselves, our heirs, and successors, we grant and confirm to the aforesaid bailiff and burgesses of the aforesaid borough and their successors, all and each of the customs, liber- ties, privileges, franchises, immunities, exemptions, quittances, exonerations, rights, and jurisdictions, which have been granted and given either by our charter or by the charters of our ances- tors, the Kings and Queens of England, or by the charter or charters of our most dear son Prince Charles, to have, to hold, to enjoy, and to use freely and quietly, without impediment or hindrance, either from us, our ministers, our heirs, or our successors." I will now say a few words on one or two matters alluded to in this famous document. You may remember that, amongst other things, the grant of a common seal was made to the cor- poration. There is an interesting paper connected with this subject preserved amongst our parish records, and, if you will allow me, I will read it, since it is not very long. It is the first draft of the grant, and is labelled with the name of the man to whom most probably the execution of the work was entrusted, — " Kymby, a painter, in Litle Britaine, neare to D. Frier." " Whereas our Sovereign Lord the King hath, by his letters patent, bearinge date the xviiith day of July last past, incor- HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 41 porated the Burrough of Barkehamsted St. Peter, in the county of Hertford, by the name of the Bailiffe and Burgesses of the burroughe of Barkhamsted St. Peter, in the said county of Hert- ford, and withal hath granted unto them to have a mace adorned with the armes of his most deare sonne Prince Charles, with a peculier sealo for the administration of their aifayres, and the said bailiffe and burgesses have requested mee, William Camden, Clarenceux King of Armes, to assigne them armes fitt for their seale, I upon deliberate consideration that the glory of that place hath proceeded from the ancient castle there, a principall seate of the Dukes of Cornwall, have assigned unto them these armes : In a shield, — Or, a triple towred castle azure, w th n a border of Cornewall, viz., sables besanted. The which armes I doe give, graunt, ratifie, and confirme unto the aforesaid bailiffe and bur- gesses, by virtue of my office. In witness whereof I have here- unto set my hand this xxvth daye of September, in the sixteenth yeare of the raigne of our Sovereign Lord James, by the grace of God of Great Brittaine, France, and Ireland, King, Defender of the Faith." Accordingly in the old inventories of the goods belonging to the corporation and deposited in the Town-hall, we find the following entries : " Item — The cofnon seale with a silver head. " Item — The armes of the burro we." In these inventories, which were delivered to and signed by each bailiff on his accession to office, we always find the most valuable piece of property at the head of the list. " Inprimis — The Charter." Further down we read — M Item — The grant from y° Prince to y e bayliffe;" and also " two letters to y e sheriffe." I may remark with regard to the Prince's (Prince Charles's) grant, that it bears the date of 16th June, 1619, and constitutes the bailiff the Prince's bailiff, and coroner, with power and 42 HISTORY OF BBRKHAMSTKU. authority to receive all market-dues, &c, for the term of thhty- oue years, on payment of twenty shillings a year to his high- ness's particular farmer for his highness's use. With respect to these letters to the sheriff, it seems that even after the grant of the great charter the inhabitants of Berkham- sted were occasionally summoned on juries, and, complaint being made by them to Prince Charles, he at first expostulated with the sheriff of the county, and afterwards obtained from James I. full authority to insist upon the exemption heretofore granted them in that behalf, and which was thereupon commanded and ordered by the Prince in the following letter, the original of which is now inserted in one of the church books : " After our hartie commendations : Whereas the Prince's Highnes' Tennants and Inhabitants of the Towne and Burrough of Barkhampsted St. Peter, in the county of Hertford, being parte of His Highnes' Duchie of Cornewall, and the chiefe seate of His Highnes' honor of Barkhampsteed, who have heretofore enjoyed divers liberties and privileges (as appeareth by sundrie ancient records), and amongst those have been freed and exempted from their attendance at assizes and sessions, and all other services before y e Sheriffe ; and His Highnesse being desirous to advance the said towne to a former or a better estate, hath obtained from the Kinges Ma tie the revyving and confirmacion of the said former priviledges, for the ease and benefit of the said Tennants and Inhabitants : And for the better usage and enjoying of the said exemption, wee did heretofore addresse our letters unto the then Sheriffe ; thereby praieing him to forbeare to somon or retourne anie of the said Tennants and inhabitants to appeare at the assizes, sessions, or other ser- vices before him : yet neverthelesse (as wee are informed) either he or some Sheriffe since have called, somoned and retourned, and yet intend to call, somon and retourne, divers psons of the Towne and Burrough aforesaid, at sundrie tymes to the said services, contrary to His Highnes' pleasure by our former HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 43 letters signified : Wee have therefore thought fitt to addresse this our second letter as well unto you the High Sheriffe as for your undersheriffe for the tyme beinge, which letter wee will to remaine in the custodie of the Bayliffe of the Burrough aforesaid, to be shewed unto you and your successor successively from tyme to tyme as often as wee shall require ; thereby willinge and requiringe you to take knowledge both of His Ma t1es graunt and of His Highnes' pleasure herein, and hence- forth to forbeare to somon or retourne anie of the said Tennants or Inhabitants for the services aforesaid, as you tender His Highnes service and favour. Soe, not doubtinge of your careful respect herein, wee bid you hartilie farewell. From His Highnes' Councell Chamber in Fleete Streete, London, y e xv th of May, 1620. a Yoiu' verie lovinge friendes," &c. &c. &c. Amongst the signatures occur those of Thomas Murray and James Fullerton. You are probably aware that this letter formed a principal evidence before Lord Abinger, when, as we have previously had occasion to remark, the Inhabitants of Berk- hamsted were declared fully entitled to the exemptions and privileges which they then claimed. Before leaving the subject of the charter, I would just mention that to the grant of the additional fairs is added curia pedis pul- verizati, " a court of pie powder." This is a name derived from the French (poudre des pieds), and is as much as to say "a court of dusty feet," — an odd enough title certainly, but one which will appear plain and appropriate when we consider that a " dusty-foot " was the ancient name for a pedlar, and that pedlars when met together at market often required a court authorized to adjudge summarily on any dispute which might arise amongst them. Agreeably to the powers vested in the bailiff and capital bur- gesses by the charter of incorporation, certain orders and constitutions were agreed upon u for the better government of 44 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. the corporation of the borough," on the 13th Nov. 1620, which continued to be the standing orders for the government of the same. The business of the corporation, judging from the records which have been preserved, seems to have been carried on regularly and well. For instance, as a proof of judicious government, we find the following order in 1659. " Item, that there shall not be more than six alehouses lycensed to draw or sell beare or ale within the burroughe, with- out the consent of the major pte of the whole company." The corporate officers seem to have been regularly elected till about 1662 or 1663,* at which time Chauncy tells us "they let their government fall, having grown very poor in the time of the late war." We find, however, an attempt to revive the charter by a petition to the King, to which His Majesty gave a favourable answer in these terms. " His Majesty is graciously pleased to refer this peticon to Mr. Atturney Gen* 11 , to consider the same and to draw a confirmacon of the charters of Berk- hamsted, with such alteracons,f enlargements, and addicons, as he shall think fitt. Whitehall, Nov. 3, 1664." Notwith- standing this reply, we hear of no result, and the attempt appears to have been ultimately dropped. At the beginning of the next century, however, when Chauncy wrote his history, he tells us that there were four of the chief burgesses still living in the town, who by the charter might choose a bailiff, and fill up the number of burgesses. This, I need hardly say, was never done. With the decay of the corporation the town generally seems to have become less prosperous. The market was almost * The last entry in the old Corporation-book, preserved in the church chest, is as follows : "The second day of September, 1662, Christopher Woodhouse, gent, sworne bayliffe for the tyme being." f Among the desired alterations seem to have been, as we find from a note in the church chest, " Barkamsted St. Mary al s Northchurch (y e towne and parish) to be incorporated into one," and " y c weekly markett on Thursday to be changed to Friday." HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 45 entirely disused — a circumstance which may have been ac- celerated by several virulent attacks of the small-pox, to which our town was unfortunately subjected, and to which the existence of a parish pest-house bears testimony. These repeated attacks seem properly to have created greater vigilance on the part of the authorities, for an entry in the parish book, Aug. 18, 1779, directs the "prosecution of an apothecary for bringing cases of the small-pox into the town from Ivinghoe. Though however in commerce it did not prosper, JBerkhamsted did not languish altogether, for we find it thus described in an itinerary of the period, " Berkhamsteed has a shabby, decayed market, but genteel inhabitants and neighbours, and splendid assemblies." (Lipscomb's Journey, 1799 ; and Gent. Mag. 1804.) But I must return to the Berkhamsted of the days of Charles 1. We have already heard much of the esteem in which that monarch held our town, an esteem evinced not only by the charter which he granted to our corporation, but also, as we may now remark, by his benefactions to the poor of the parish. Whilst Prince, in 1620, he gave \00l. to employ the poor of this town at work in Jersey, which, says Chauncy, was ac- cordingly performed until the undertakers broke. Of this sum 82Z. only seems to have been recovered, with which was pur- chased a row of houses called Ragged Row, to be tenanted by paupers rent free. These houses were pulled down 59 Geo. III., and sold for 40£., which money went towards the fund for building the new workhouse on the same site. In 1626, when King, Charles gave a further benefaction of 100/. for firing for the poor. The chief part of this has also been lost ; what has been preserved goes to the bread fund ; so that the bread which is given away every Sunday in church is in part the gift of this unfortunate King, and in part, as we have before remarked, the gift of his father King James. We do not hear much of Berkhamsted during the period of the Great Rebellion. The state of feeling here was probably 46 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. similar to that throughout the country — a certain acquiescence in the proceedings of the Parliament up to the time of the King's death, followed by a violent reaction after that unjusti- fiable murder, which it required all the vigour and authority of Cromwell to suppress. Accordingly w r e find that some of our townsmen who had dared to express their opinions strongly were brought up for examination before the bailiff and chief bur- gesses, by an order from the Council of State. We discover this from a paper dated 14 Aug. 1 649, in which "Jeremy Whelply upon oath saith, that Nathan Paine, having a spiritt of malice, declared at a wedding about the 24th of May, that it grieved him he had ever entered into the service of the Parliament, and that their proceeding against the late King was the most horrid murder that ever any history made mencon of — that it was a plot worse than the gunpowder treason, and that there was no difference, but that one was underground and the other above ground : and again, that the Parliament was not in the right way, and if hee had thought the Parliament would have gone on in that way hee would never have drawen his sword for them, and would never drawe it againe for them going in that way." This Nathan Paine was a man of importance in our town, and served the office of churchwarden. Whether he and his co-patriots suffered for their loyalty we know not ; they may have been imprisoned in what is now the Engine House, which was, says Salmon, made a prison for the Cavaliers, as was also the furthest house in the town, called Marlows, to which a chapel anciently belonged. This may have been on the site where the hall now stands. These traditions however must be received for what they are worth. To return to the Mansion House as connected with the history of the town. As you may remember, we left it in the possession of the Murrays. During their residence here, in the year 1627, it may be well to mention that the great park, which at that time contained 1252 acres, was disparked and reduced to 376 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 47 acres. The Murrays appear to have left this neighbourhood about the time of the King's death, and we find their interest in the unexpired term of nine years assigned to Major John Alford, in the month of February, 1650. The recurrence of the same name in the lease of the property after a lapse of so many years is certainly a curious fact. It was in this same year that the parliamentary commissioners made a survey of the Mansion House, preparatory to the intended sale of Crown lands. In this survey, which is preserved in the office of the Duchy of Corn- wall, the house is thus described : — u All that capitall mess' mansion-house scituate on a hill (in the middle of th' aforesaid parke), called Barkhamsted House, built w th flint and Tatternell stone, cheq r fashion, w ch doth much adorn and sett fourth the same, and covered w th slatt ; consistinge of one large and spacious hall, wainscotted, and well floored, seeled, and lighted : one little parlo r , . . . one pantrey, and one other small room thereunto adjoyning, . . also the great parlo r , . . w th a small roome at the end of the same heirtofore used for a chappell, w th one other darke roome beyond the same, .... and above stayres in the first story . . one roome called the dyneing-roome, also one large gallery, . . on y e west side of the said house, . . seeled w th a freet seelinge, ... all th' aforesaide roomes lye round a square court. At the entering in of the house, standeth a porter's lodge, built w th flint and Totternoll stone as aforesaid, w th four pinacles at each corner, and in the middle standeth a light turret covered w th blew slat w th a payne on the topp of the same, which said turret and lodge doth much adorne the said house ; and between the lodge and the house is one greene square court paved in the middle w th stone, leadinge 12 stepps in ascent into the aforesaid hall There is no water belonginge or neere to the same, the pipes being cut and carryed away theise troublesome tymes, and the watermill standeth afarre of w ch conveyeth water to the said house is also broken and carryed away." 48 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. Such is the interesting description of General Finch's house as it existed two hundred years ago. During Cromwell's time it was occupied by Colonel Axtel ; a most remarkable man, who was born in this parish a.d. 1622.* He was originally appren- ticed to a grocer in London, but soon got mixed up in the politics of the day. He became before long one of the most violent of the parliamentarians, and distinguished himself espe- cially by his zeal in promoting the execution of the King. During the Protectorate he was most active in reducing Ireland to the government of this country. At the Kestoration he was hanged as a regicide at Tyburn on the 19th of October, 1660. From a paper endorsed " The case of Harry Guy and Bark- hamstead Park," it would appear that Charles II. had left the estate in the care of this Henry Guy, who both paid a certain purchaser of the house, perhaps Major John Alford, the sum of 32/. that it might not be pulled down, and moreover repaired and preserved it when Colonel Axtel possessed himself of it. Accordingly, on the King's return, Guy applied for the grant of a lease for himself, which however seems to have been refused, since we find from a warrant bearing date 3d September, 1660, that the estate was leased for a term of thirty-one years to the Lord Treasurer, Jerome Weston, Earl of Portland. It was during this nobleman's residence here that the great fire occurred by which two-thirds of the mansion were destroyed. The cen- tral portion, which escaped, received the necessary repairs, and forms the present house. The two wings, which formed the sides of the court-yard, were never rebuilt. These repairs were * The following entry of his baptism occurs in the parish register : " 1622. Danniell, y c sonne of William Axtill, was baptized y e 26th of May." The name Axtill, Axtell, or Axtoll, is of very frequent occurrence in the registers. The last entry is, " 1734, May 26th. Anne Axtel, an almshouse woman, was buried." [This family is now settled in America. The Rev. S. J. Axtell, jun., West Medway, Mass., wrote to me in 1879 requesting information to make his "genealogical tree complete."] HISTORY OF BEBKHAMSTED. 49 probably effected by John Sayer, to Avhom Lord Portland assigned the remainder of his term on December 11, 1662. It was about this time that tradesmen began to issue what are called tokens. Of Berkhamsted tokens there are four in the pos- session of Mr. Evans of Nash Mills : — 1. Obv. iohn seeling of. In the field i. e. s. Rev. barkhamsteed. In the field 1655 between two roses. 2. Obv. iohn cabvell, 1667. In the field his halfe penny. Rev. IN barkhamsted. In the field I. M. c. 3. Obv. william babb, 1667. A knot ending in two roses between w. k. b. Rev. in barkhamsted. In the field his half peny. 4. Obv. william preston. In the field his halfe penny. Rev. at barkhamsted, 1668. In the field w. I. p. So much for our tradesmen at the period of the Restoration It was about this time also that there happened a curious cir- cumstance connected with our town, which it may be well not to pass over. In the parish register we find that on March 17, 1664, Robert Toefield was buried ; and then we see written in another hand, " poysoned by his wife, burnt alive at Hertford." Now death by burning until Geo. III. 30, c. 48, was the author- ised capital punishment for women in all cases of high or petty treason, and husband-murder was petty treason in the strictest sense. In poisoning cases, however, the female criminal was often suspected of witchcraft. Whether this particular indi- vidual were guilty or not of the charge of having poisoned her husband, and whether or not she was thus summarily punished as a witch, I cannot say : but it is certain — and that is the reason why I mention the circumstance — that about this period numbers of aged women suffered death as witches. The san- guinary statutes against witches, such a disgrace to English law, were not repealed until 1736. Belief in witchcraft, however, seems to have lingered in Hertfordshire until even a later period, E 50 llISTOltY 0¥ BERKHAMSTED. for there is extant a very curious account of a woman murdered as a witch at Tring even so late as 1751. To return. I have stated that Lord Portland was succeeded in the tenancy of the house by John Sayer. He had been with King Charles II. in exile. I shall have to speak of him after- wards in connection with the alms-houses which he founded and which bear his name. From the Sayers, the house passed in 1718 to the Atwells, and in 1 720 to the Ropers, by which family the lease was re- newed several times; until on the 17th March, 1807, John Roper assigned over the residue of his term to John William Earl of Bridgewater.* Having now given an outline of the history of the town, as connected with the old castle and its successor on the hill, I must bring this my first lecture to a conclusion. When we next meet, if I have not already tired you, I may proceed to consider the various other objects of antiquarian interest which still exist in our town. * [The house and manor have been since purchased of the Prince of Wales by Earl Brownlow.] Parish Church of Berkhamsted ST Peter. Notes. a,. Old Vestry Door b . 0> icfinaL rood .screen reHaseei. c. Mniurn al' -slab to the OraiuhrwOier, Mather, Brothers er (wmovedhvnv t/i& chancel) D Brasses on/ floor. O Wall> inc/run-uHs . Theiiqarej-: I to 20 refer to hst in,Appen3w VIE 3 J'age. 130. PLAN. It) 5 Batterbmy & Huxley, del HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 51 LECTURE II. DELIVERED ON THE EVENING OF TUESDAY, JANUARY 30, 1855. You may remember that at the close of my last lecture I pro- mised to consider in their order the various objects of antiquarian interest which still exist in our town. Among these, without doubt, the chief post of honour must be assigned to our Church. Forming, as it does, so prominent and picturesque a feature in our town, we must all feel proud that we can call so fine a work of architecture our own. The church, as you all know, is dedi- cated to St. Peter, and St. Peter's day is on June 29th. Now churches in former times were always built east and west, or, as the story goes, with the chancel pointing to that part of the heavens in which the sun rises on the day of the patron saint. Whether this be the reason why our church deviates so much from east and west I cannot say ; but certain it is, that from some cause or other Berkhamsted Church stands pretty nearly north-east by south-west* It is built in the most approved ecclesiastical form, the form, that is, of a Latin cross. The architecture of our church, as of most others, belongs entirely to no one age, but extends over a lengthened period, and has in the course of its existence been subjected to much change and many alterations. The east end of the church, which forms a good specimen of what is called Early-English f architecture, is plainly the oldest portion of the existing building. I say of the existing building, because it is uncertain, at the time for instance of the Conquest, when we know there was a " presbyter " here, whether a church then existed independently of the castle chapel. J * [E.N.E. by W.S.W.] f For a table of the different styles of ecclesiastical architecture, vide App. III. % [An arch in the west wall of the north transept appears to be pre Norman. Vide App. VIII. with which this description of the Church must always be compared. E 2 52 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. The eastern portion, however, is the oldest part of the present church. From the narrow lancet windows of the chancel, and from the massive supports of the tower, we may assign to these portions so early a date as the beginning of the thirteenth cen- tury, more that is than 600 years ago. It is interesting to know that from this early time we are able to trace the successive Rectors of Berkhamsted down to the present day.* From the east end the work of building seems to have pro- ceeded rapidly westward, the peculiarly elegant arches of the nave having been erected immediately after. At this time also that part of the building seems to have been erected which now forms the eastern aisle of the north transept, and which still retains its original groined roof. The roof of the nave then probably rose from above the arches, and, if we can picture this to ourselves and fancy central transepts similar to the aisle above mentioned, and further, imagine a triple lancet instead of the great window which now fills the west front, we shall probably have an idea of what our church used to be 600 years ago. In this state the building seems to have remained till perhaps the latter part of the reign of Edward II. or the beginning of Edward IIL's reign, when the style of ecclesiastical architecture had attained its highest degree of perfection. Our architecture at this period is known by the name of Decorated, and to this date we may attribute the existing transepts f and the Chapel t of St. Katha- rine on the south side. These portions of the building are remarkable for the beauty and purity of their style ; indeed * Vide App. IV. f [The transepts are evidently Early-English, the Decorated portions being insertions. The chapel on the north side of the chancel is the Chapel of our Lady ; vide in Appendix VIII. 5, the interesting will of Nicholas Talbot.] % The small doorway now blocked up, leading from the chapel into the chancel, is plainly the ancient priest's door from the outside [rather the entrance to the rood-loft.] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 53 there is one window, that I mean on the west side of the north transept, which in the elegance of its tracery it would be diffi- cult to surpass. The next addition to the building must have been the chantry of St. John Baptist, to which the date of circa 1350 may be assigned. This chantry probably received its name from the fraternity of St. John Baptist. When by the King's licence it became Dean Incent's, it was by him beauti- fied and adorned, and on its altar the rent of the Dean's school estates was ordered to be paid. But of this more hereafter. About the close of the fourteenth century, we may suppose the windows to have been inserted in the Early-English aisle on the north side. These form very beautiful and interesting specimens of the transition from the Decorated to the Perpendicular style of architecture. With these additions we may suppose the church to have remained unaltered until the reign of Henry VI. (circ. 1450), when the old roof must have been taken off, a clerestory added to the nave, and the present roof constructed. To this same date also we may probably assign the singularly beautiful timber pillar which supports the roof of St. John's Chapel. About this time also, the west window, with all the original windows of the nave, must have been removed and new ones inserted. Tradi- tion, indeed, asserts that the west window was given to the church by Mrs. Murray in the reign of James I. Possibly she may have given new glass; though if so it must have been destroyed during the Civil wars, because we find from an entry in the churchwardens' accounts, which I shall presently quote, that the window was reglazed and repaired at the expense of the parish in 1660. The most recent addition to the church is the tower.* What sort of steeple Berkhamsted Church originally possessed we can- not say, but we may well rest satisfied with the fair proportions of the present one. In all probability, however, it is a copy of * [?'. c ., the upper part of it.] 54 * HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. its predecessor.* In the old rental-book of the Grammar School occurs this entry under the 27th year of Henry VIII. " Y e yeare y e steeple was new made" (a.d. 1535). Now tradition says it was rebuilt by 3tofltt i|fl£l£J)J) atttr &lgrc flgg fogffe, whose names are inscribed on the south wall of the exterior. In the old register occurs the following entry among the burials : " 1540, Dec. Ales y e wife of John Phillips, bur. 6." The tra- dition, therefore, that the tower was built by these good people is in all probability perfectly correct. Since this period the church has received no additions or im- provements. In a petition from the inhabitants of Berkhamsted to the then diocesan, the Bishop of Lincoln, it is described as being in the year 1628 " a large and goodlye church for the publique service of Almighty God, which by reason of antiquity and former neglect is very much and dangerously decayed in many partes thereof." Whether or not it received the necessary repairs we know not. None of the churchwardens' accounts during this period have been preserved, with a single exception.f * [Originally, perhaps, the tower was low and surmounted by a short spiro. — Parker.] t [In the British Museum (Add. MS. 18773) there is a most valuable MS. unfortunately lost to the parish, but happily well cared for, containing the church- wardens' accounts for 1584-1748. On the fly-leaf is written " Purchased at Put- ticks, Dec. 4, 1851." It contains 366 folios. The earlier ones are very fragmentary, and a portion of the writing (notably the entries during a part of the reign of Chas. I.) difficult to decipher. On the first sheet is written " The Book of the Church accompts made this present year of our Lord God 1584, the 1 st of Feb- ruary, in the xxvii th year of the reigne of our Sovreign Lady Elizabeth, and given to the Py sh by Thomas , cittizen & vintner of London." This book must have been lost to the parish before the late rector's time, when certain enquiries were being made respecting the parishioners' rights under the charter. Having been purchased at public auction by the Museum authorities, it is believed that they have a legal claim to its possession. At all events it is now safe. The custody of the parish documents is in the hauds of the rector and churchwardens, and they are kept in the ancient chest in the church, according to old custom, under triple lock and key. May the abstraction of this book be a warning to all future guardians of these records !] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 55 That exception, however, is an interesting one, being the account for the year of the restoration of King Charles II. Among the items we observe : — £ s. d. " For our charges at the perambulations . . 11 " Payd for a pint of sack for y e minister that preached on Lord's Day .... 10 " Payd for the ringers the 5th of November 1 659 2 6 " Payd to the ringers when the King came in and when he was proclaimed . . .10 u Payd for a barill of beere when the King was proclaimed 10 " Payd in the two years to poore travellers that were distressed 13 Among the receipts is an interesting one as connected with the Grammar School : — £ s. d. " Receved of the Schollmasters for ringing the six o'clok bell three yeares . . . . 18 Among the expenses for repairs are as follows : — " Payd for a new Chancell doore . . . 11 "Payd to William Arrowsmith for glassing the great windowe 2 8 In the next century repairs were again needful, if not at the hands of the churchwardens, at all events at the hands of the authorities of the Grammar School; because Salmon, after telling us in his history that the chapel of St. John is used only by the master, usher, and scholars of the Free School, proceeds to relate that " about five years since (i. e. about 1723), as soon as they were all gone into the body of the church to attend the catechising, the main beam gave way and the roof of the chapel fell in." Time fast wore awa} r , the church unfortunately wore away also, until at last it was resolved in the year 1820 — that 56 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. most unpropitious of all architectural periods — thoroughly to repair and renovate it. This has been done thoroughly indeed, so thoroughly and so substantially that in our time there seems but little chance of any real restoration being possible. I leave you to admire or not as you please this work of renovation, so called. I merely mention the deeds done, and add no comment. The parapet of the south aisle of the nave was reduced in height about four feet. Fancy foliations were inserted in the east and south windows. The font was removed from the west end to the south porch, which was then blocked up. The Tor- rington altar-tomb and brass (of which hereafter) were removed from the nave to the transept. The church was new floored and many old inscriptions covered up. The six bells were recast and made into eight. Substantial pews were erected. The gallery which stood between the tower arches was removed and a new one erected at the west end, under the direction of Sir Geoffrey Wyattville. It is only fair to remark that this famous architect's advice was gratuitous, his sole remuneration being the unanimous thanks of the whole parish in vestry assembled. Furthermore, the roof was renewed and plastered ; and last, though not least, the whole of the exterior of the church was encrusted with stucco. I have now spoken generally of the architecture of the church. It may, however, be well just to make one or two remarks on its more particular details. Of stained glass, with which pro- bably many of the windows were originally filled, there is hardly any remaining* Perhaps the most interesting remnant is the coat of Cicely Neville, wife of Kichard Duke of York, of whom we have had occasion to speak previously. This is in one of the windows of St. John's Chapel. The rood screen, so called because formerly a rood or crucifix was placed over it, is still existing, as is also the muniment-room or parvise above the * [Far the glass ancl monuments, see App. VIII.] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 57 porch, where the priest was lodged, though the staircase which leads to it is now blocked up. In the strong room, now used as an engine-house, we probably see the ancient sacristy, where the plate, vestments, and relics were preserved. I may also remark here that the font, which as I have said is not in its original place, was the gift of Francis Withered, Esq. of Ashlins, Comptroller of the Works to his Majesty Charles II.* In the nave were several frescoes, representing the twelve Apostles and St. George and the Dragon. Of these however there are now no traces remaining. Of the coats of arms which were formerly placed in the church, that of Queen Elizabeth is still preserved in the vestry.f This is remarkable, when we remember that during the Protectorate strict orders were given to remove all such regal emblems from our churches. Underneath these arms are the quaint lines : — This mighty Queen is dead and lives, And leaves the world to wonder, How she a maiden Queen did rule, Few Kings have gone beyond her. Weever tells us that in his time Edward the Sixth's arms were also in the church, in St. John's Chantry, with the following verses beneath : — Quid sextum dicis nulli virtute secundus, Ingenio nulli, nullus in arte prior, Edwardi insignis sunt hsec insignia ? ludis, In »ignis ilium deliniare nequis. Weever also gives us the following lines which were inscribed in the same chantry under the coat and crest of Dr. Incent : — Mira cano nondum denos compleverat annos, Cum Pater est Patriae Edwardus musisque Patronus, Hie tuis avibus sublatas reddidit alas, * [In the churchwardens' accounts (British Museum) for 1662 : '• To John Turner bringing the font 11 6 To Richard Ward about the font 1 3 "] f [Now in the nave.] 58 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. Incenti : obtusis aciem pugionibns ille, Hie cruci vires, Infanti adjecit amictum, Ille Rosam suavi perfndit odore caducam. The arms of Incent are, Argent, on a bend gules an Inno- cent or. Next a few words about some of the more remarkable monu- ments in the church. For the sake of convenience these may be divided into altar- tombs, brasses, and mural tablets. 1st. Altar-tombs. There are three of these in the church, and all in the north transept. First I will say a few words about the altar-tomb with the recumbent effigies, concerning which there has been so much dispute. I have already remarked that neither this monument, nor the brass now adjacent to it, are in the positions in which they were originally placed. They were both in the body of the church — the altar-tomb under the second of the northern arches from the tower westwards, and the brass in the centre of the nave. Now it is asserted both by Weever and Chauncy, that these two monuments are memorials of the same persons, Richard Torrington and Margaret his wife. It is further asserted by both these antiquaries, that this Torrington, accord- ing to tradition, was the founder of the church, and a man in especial favour with Edmund Plantagenet, the founder of Ash- ridge. I need not stop here to refute the first part of this tradition : the church itself refutes it, and when I tell you that this Torrington, from the date on the brass, died 56 years after his supposed patron, I will only leave it for you to imagine the patriarchal age which, if the second part of the tradition be credited, he must of necessity have attained. And now for the opposite side of the question : Salmon and Clutterbuck argue, and I think with reason, that these monuments do not represent the same persons, but different members of the same family. They instance the fact that the one, the altar-tomb, represents a HISTORY OF BEHKHAMSTED. 59 knight ; the other, the brass, a civilian ; and also that the arms are not precisely similar, but differenced by a martlet. Besides which, it is scarcely probable that the same persons should have two monuments actually in the same church, excepting in the case of a commemorative mural tablet, with a simple slab on the grave. Thus far then I think we may agree with Clutterbuck, but we cannot follow him when he goes on to assert, with Chauncy, that the Torrington represented on the brass is pro- bably the founder or rebuilder of the nave of the church. He rests his arguments for this on the similarity of the arms which he says existed on the corbels which support the roof of the nave : of these there is now no trace. Chauncy too says that the same coats were round the church on every pillar, and on the woodwork on the side of the church. Now, however this may have been, it is abundantly evident that this Torrington neither rebuilt, nor even re-roofed, the nave ; the nave being built more than 100 years before, and the clerestory and roof being added about 100 years after his time. From what I have said, you will perceive that I agree with Clutterbuck in the supposition that the altar-tomb and the brass commemorate different members of the Torrington family. He assigns the earlier date to the altar-tomb, though from the style of dress and architecture I should be inclined to differ from him, and to suppose that the altar-tomb was not erected till towards the close of the fourteenth century. In this case it may possibly be the son of the Torrington represented on the brass ; and, if in any way we are to account for the tradition that these Tor- ringtons were the builders of the church, it will be by supposing that they erected those portions of it which correspond in their style of architecture with the times in which they lived. Thus the elder Torrington may have rebuilt the transepts, whilst the younger Torrington was perhaps the founder of the St. John's Chantry. Of this however it is needless to say we have no record, neither indeed does it appear from any authentic docu- 60 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. ment even who these Torringtons were. In the College of Arms there are no records or pedigrees concerning them. They seem however to have been residents in this town, and, from a com- parison of armorial bearings, to have intermarried with the Incents. They must have been people of importance, since of their monuments the altar-tomb especially is so remarkably handsome. It even now bears testimony to its former rich decoration in traces of gold and of red and blue paint, and when in its glory must have fully borne out this description by Weever, written more than two hundred years ago : " In the body of this church stands a stately tombe of an antique rich fabricke, strangely depainted, whereon the shape of a man in knightly habiliments, with his wife lying by him, are cut in alabaster."* The Purbeck marble altar-tomb is the next which demands attention. There is no inscription remaining, but from the armorial bearings we find that it is in memory of one of the Cornwallis family. Accordingly we look for a Cornwallis in the register, and there we find the following entry : — "Maii( S r John Cornewallis Knyghte, t of y e Prince | . M 1544. (Ed 8 Cowncell who died at Asshurridg "l here buried y e j Surely then we have a right to presume, as did Chauncy, that this is the Cornwallis who lies buried beneath the Purbeck marble tomb. But here comes a dispute. A monument is found to exist at Broome in Suffolk, representing the recumbent effigies of a knight and his lady, with an inscription in memory of this same Sir John, and also of his wife. Clutterbuck at once seizes upon this as a certain refutation of Chauncy 's error, and tries further to prove his point by asserting that Chauncy made a mistake in reading the register, that for u here " he * [Mr. Cussans in a letter to me, Oct. 8, 1877, and also in his History, p. 63, shows that the altar-tomb is in memory of an Incent who married a Torrington and the brass in memory of a Torrington who married an Incent. The arms in the latter case have been relaid and reversed. There is a fine engraving of the altar- tomb in Clutterbuck.] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 61 ould have read " there," in which case, Sir John Cornwallis might have been buried first at Ashridge and afterwards re- moved to Broome. But the error is plainly Clutterbuck's, and not Chauncy's. The word is evidently "here," and not " there." Besides, supposing Sir John to have been buried at Ashridge, what possible inducement could there have been to have inserted a record of the event in the Berkhamsted register ? Such, then, being the state of the case, to what point have we arrived in the dispute ? Just to this. We find two monuments — in different churches, however, recollect — which bear every mark of having r>een erected in memory of the same person. But there is this difference. The monument at Broome is in memory of Sir John and his wife. The monument here we ascribe to Sir John only. What then more natural than that he, dying in this neighbourhood, should in this neighbourhood be buried; and that she, dying in the neighbourhood of her home, should in that neighbourhood be buried, and that when a tomb is erected over her remains her husband should be represented by her side, buried though he be at a distance from his home. We all know what cenotaphs are. A cenotaph for Sir John Cornwallis would be unmeaning here, but in the place of his home there could be nothing more natural, more in accordance with English family feeling. I think then I may fairly ask you to go along with me in supposing that the grey Purbeck tomb in the north transept* is the veritable tomb of Sir John Cornwallis, Knight, and of the council of Prince Edward (Edw. VI.), who died at Ashridge, April 26, 1544. The remaining altar-tomb bears the date of 1682. The inscription, which is in Latin, tells us that it was erected in memory of John Sayer, who was " Archimagirus," i. e. chief cook, to his most serene Highness King Charles II., to whose fortunes he constantly attached himself in difficult times, both at home and abroad, in his kingdoms of England and Scotland. * [Now in north aisle of nave.] 62 HISTOllY 01' BEBKHAM8TED. This tomb was originally surrounded by railings, which are now removed. We have already alluded to this John Sayer as living at General Finch's house, and as founder of the alms- houses which bear his name. He died Feb. 11, 1682, aged 62. My next division leads me to speak of the brass memorials in the church. The fashion of representing on tombs the likeness of the deceased graven on a plate of brass, and inserted in a slab of marble or stone, appears to have been adopted about the middle of the thirteenth century. This species of sepulchral memorial was imported probably by the Flemings, and may shortly be described as a copper-plate engraving from which impressions could be easily obtained. You will be surprised then to learn that, with all these sepulchral plates in existence, the art of engraving remained as yet undiscovered for the space of about 200 years, and during the whole of that interval the simple art of taking impressions remained unknown. To pro- ceed however with a description of this class of monuments in our own town. The oldest brass in the church is that to which we have already alluded, as being in memory of Richard and Margaret Tor- rington,* This memorial bears the date of 1356, just one hundred years that is before the art of engraving was dis- covered. On this brass the figure of the wife is represented on the dexter or right side, and the husband on the sinister or left side. Above the lady are represented the arms of In cent, so that in all probability that was her maiden name. I may remark that in this brass the fashion of the day in the lappet sleeves is admirably shown. I may now leave this brass,t as I have * [A Frankelin or merchant. This, according to Haines, is one of the oldest civilian brasses in existence. It is now on the north side of the choir stalls.] f It may be well however just to notice how it is described by Weever. After speaking of the altar-tomb, he proceeds — " and about the verge of a large marble thereunto adjoining is this description engraven in brass: 'Hie jacet Kichardus Torynton et Margareta uxor ejus, qui quidem Richard us obiit 4 die Martii 130G, et Margareta ob. 9 Martii, 13 . .' This Torynton, as I have it by relation, was HISTORY OF BEKKHAMSTED. 63 already spoken of it in connection with the Torrington altar- tomb. In the same transept is a brass with a full-length effigy and the following fragment of an inscription : — H tr facet itttcartmg Wltstbtokt qui obiit b . . . Sqpte'fcrt* a fl tJ'ttt mtii'mo tttt.Vwpb t Sbupplttans boiris t? taritate b'ra p a'ta $ . . . . The name suggests a probable connection with Westbrook Hay. In the chancel are two brasses, the inscriptions to both of which are gone. One represents the head and shoulders of a priest with the hands clasped in prayer. It may possibly be the memorial of some early rector of Berkhamsted.* The other is a full-length medium-sized effigy of a lady. This is engraved in BoutelPs Monumental Brasses of England, and the date assigned is circ. 1360 (34th Edw. III.) Boutell says, "A loose super- tunic, without any buttons, is the only outer garment repre- sented in this simple yet highly-effective effigy. Upon the head is a kerchief, which partly covers the reticulated head-gear. The singular lines upon the arms, introduced apparently as a the founder of this church, a man in special favour with Edm. Plantaginet, Duke of Cornwall, who was son of Kichard Plantagenet, second Sonne of King John , Earl of Cornwall and King of the Romans." Chauncy quotes this nearly ver- batim. He and Salmon, however, differ both from Weever and from each other in their versions of the inscription. It is indeed notorious how little reliance can be placed on copies of inscriptions by old writers. Gough, who gives an engraving of this brass, and on whom alone we can depend, says that in his time (1796) he could read thus much : — North side. Ofcttt quarto tsit mtn&ti Mxttii East side. anno oamtnt muTo. ccc.l rferia South side. et iHarjjareta aiiit jcjft ate mm&ti JHatt anno aomtnt ccc.jrt nana. All that remains of this now is a small portion- of the last line. Even in Gough's time there was no trace of the name Torrington — a name which it must be borne in mind we receive solely on the authority of Weever and Chauncy. For engravings of this brass, vide Cluttcrbuck, and Boutell's Mon. Brasses, p. 106. * [Thomas Brydde, ob. 1405 ?] 64 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. species of shading, may be also observed in the brass of Richard and Beatrice de Heylesdone, at Hellesdon in Norfolk."* In St. John's Chapel are four brasses. 1. A full-length medium-sized effigy of a man in armour, with a lion supporting his feet. No inscription remains, though there are traces of a legend round the stone. If, however, we may connect it with an inscription preserved by Chauncy as existing in this chapel in his time, we shall behold in the brass before us an esquire of the reign of Richard II. Chauncy's inscription is as follows : %fyic )&CU 3toftatttttg $UbCtt &rmtger qui otmt 15 trie Martii anno tromuu I395.f This brass is also engraved by Boutell, who assigns to it the earlier date of circ. 1365. 2. A small effigy of a man with a label proceeding from the mouth, on which is inscribed H?r$U fill tfti migtTtVt IttCt* By his side hangs an anlace. This was a short weapon between a sword and a dagger, which was usually worn by civilians until the end of the fifteenth century : it was always worn from a strap apparently attached to the uppermost part of the scab- bard. Underneath is this fragment of an inscription : — . . . Cooft qui obiit w . . . 'tit m. cere* nono.i Chauncy states incorrectly that the head of the effigy is broken off. He gives the inscription as existing in his time : — . . ©Drmuttlrt €ooft qttt otottt 24 Xfit 4$trn0t0 Wunii anno from* 1409. This brass therefore bears the date of the next reign, Henry IV. 3. The following inscription on a square brass let into a stone apparently modern : — * [Now in north transept. Margaret Briggs (Haines).] f [John Raven was the Black Prince's Esquire, and fought at Crecy. This brass is now on the south side of the choir stalls.] J [Lost in the Restoration.] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 65 $ere Igeth imrgetr tintr* thgsf stone tfit Uotrg of Uobtvt Jtteeitt, (Betttgintatt, late g'Uattt unto the noUie pvincttitit lairg Cergle trutheiaisse of gorfce, 1 mother unto the foorths fting ©trfoartr the 5JHHL antr l&tehartr the thgrtre, fohgrhgagtrifcooertJftttettt&selr of tht grete gfoetgttg ggftettesige the finest gete of tht UcgQnc of htitg hettrg the WM. upon Uiho.se gotoi^s 3fh'tt haUe wertg* ametu Chauncy makes mention of his effigy and coat of arms, also of another inscription. 4. A medium-sized female figure in a shroud. Underneath is this inscription on a square brass : — P?ere igeth imrgetr tuttr* thgs Stone the Uotrge of itatergne jetamtgme the fogf of Robert Xttcent, gent*, father antr mother Unto 3fohtt fateent, lrocto r of g* latoe, Umo hath Irone mattg Uettgfgt 1 ornament ggUett unto th$$ chapell of Sagnt 3John, fohtrhe gagtre Itatergne trgelr the rt trag of i&arche £* rat sere of the rrggne of itgng i^enrg the WW$ • There are traces also of a legend round the stone. Of these Incentswe shall have occasion to speak afterwards in connection with the Grammar School. I have now described all the flat brasses which still exist. There are traces of several others which are now lost. One, for instance, in the chancel, with marks of an inscription and a coat of arms, and one in St. Katharine's Chapel, perhaps to be con- nected with the memory of " Sir Kawfe Verney." In this chapel too Chauncy mentions as existing in his time the full- length effigy in brass of Edmund de la Hay. We cannot too deeply regret its loss. The inscription preserved by Chauncy is as follows : — l^tefacet^trUtaetrustrela^agarmtget^utom'tttntrectmo n m'nto mentis Statu anno Irom* mUcr* Cttjtt* ammae jjroju'etnr Henseu &metu F 66 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. As I cannot describe to yon his effigy, I will read you some portions of his will, which is very interesting, as containing much that may remind us of the state of religious worship in England before the Reformation. It is dated 20 May, 1510. In it he first bequeaths his soul to Almighty God, and his blessed moder and virgin, our Lady St. Mary, and to all the holy com- pany of heaven. He then orders his body to be buried in the church of Berkhamsted, in the chapel of St. Katherine, at the south end of the altar. He gives to the high altar of the said church 6s. 8d., to the use of the light of our Lady of Grace in the church 6s. 8d. (this was probably the north transept chapel to the north of the chancel), to the use of the rood lights where they sing mass at the south door of the same church 6s. 8d. (this must have been St. John's Chapel), to the church workes of the Church of Berkhamsted 20s., to the reparation of the bells 13s. 4d., to the reparation and maintenance of the torches in the same church 13s. 4d, to ten priests who should be re- quired to be at his obsequies 6d. a piece. He gives also 10Z. to his brother Sir William de la Haye, and a house in Berkhamsted formerly Dourdant's; and another there formerly Tumours, and then used as a stable to the former, to Sir Raufe Verney, K*, whom he appoints one of his executors. He leaves the rest of his real estate (which was very large) to his three daughters Luce, Mary, and Joan, and if either of them, or any of them, should make any strife, or debate against the will, her portion was to be sold by his executors to the best value, and to be dis- tributed in good works for the said Edward de la Hay's soul, and all christian souls. He then leaves legacies for the executors, and directs them so to fulfil his will as shall seem most expedient for the health of his soul, and his fader's and moder's souls, and all his friends' souls, with all christian souls. Such is the will of the last of the de la Hays, a family than which in early times there was none more noted in the county. It is interesting, in illustration of this will, to find the follow- HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 67 ing entry in the Grammar School accounts, an. 2 and 3 Edw. VI. No. 59. " Lands formerly Edward de la hays, Esq., which descended to Lucy wife of Eobert Parre, and Agnes wife of Thomas Butler, of Berkhamsted, daughters and heirs of Edward de la hays ; also Eastbrokehay in helmehampstedde, which descended to Marie Goodyere, daughter of Edward de la hay wife of R. Goody ere of St. Albans, purchased by Sir Robert Dormer K l , and from him by the Dean (Incent)." But of these purchases more hereafter. We must not forget that we are, or rather ought to be, speaking of the monuments in the church. The brasses on the walls of St. Katharine's Chapel come more naturally under the third division which I proposed to consider — mural monuments. Of these there are several in the church. Many that are modern come not within the scope of this lecture, and of two, the Baldwin and Cradock monuments, we may ob- serve that they are only remarkable for their size. The latter, by the way, commemorates a great benefactress to the parish, and there is a curious clause in her will, that if ever her vault be opened, all her benefactions are to go to her executors and their heirs. But let us now return to the Chapel of St. Katharine, where we shall find three very interesting mural monuments, all to members of the same family. 1 . A tablet on the south wall with an inscription on brass, in memory of John Waterhouse and Margaret his wife. He died in 1558, and was brother of the last rector of Ashridge. 2. A handsome monument, now much defaced, on the east wall, with an alabaster figure of a lady kneeling. This represents " that worthy Lady Dame Margaret Waterhouse," first wife of Sir Edward Waterhouse, who was son of the John Waterhouse commemorated in the last-mentioned tablet. The inscription, which is on polished marble, tells us that Sir Edward caused this monument to be erected in memory of his wife's virtues F */ 68 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. and clearest love. She died in 1587. This Sir Edward is reckoned by Fuller as one of the worthies of England. He comes in Hertfordshire under the class of statesmen. We may remark in passing, that Berkhamsted has contributed no less than four worthies to Fuller's collection. As statesmen, this Sir Edward Waterhouse and Henry Viscount Cary, of whom we have already spoken; and as memorable persons, Thomas Waterhouse, the last rector of Ashridge, and Dr. Incent, to whom we shall come presently. With regard to the worthy of whom we are now speaking — Sir Edward Waterhouse — the witty historian tells us that his employment was so great that he crossed the seas thirty-seven times, until deservedly at last he came into a port of honour, wherein he sundry years anchored and found safe harbour, for he received the honour of knight- hood, and was sworn of Her Majesty's Privy Council for Ireland, and was made Chancellor of the Exchequer there. 3. A marble tablet inserted outside the belfry staircase,* in memory of Thomas Waterhouse, who died in 1600, and Mary his wife. This Thomas was Sir Edward's elder brother, though he outlived him. He served the office of churchwarden of Berkhamsted, and we find his signature in the register down to the year 1598. He had six sons and five daughters. His son John, probably the eldest, who was baptized, as we find from the register, on Nov. 12, 1570, distinguished himself in after life as physician to the Parliamentarian forces in Ireland, on which account Oliver Cromwell, when Chancellor of the Uni- versity of Oxford, gave orders that he should be admitted to the honorary degree of M.D. in that university. In the chancel above the vestry doorf there is a mural monu- ment in memory of two of the young Murrays, erected, accord- ing to the inscription, by their mother. The tradition, in accordance with the one alluded to in the first lecture, asserts * [Moved to the south wall of the upper vestry.] f fNow the Credence recess.] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 69 that these were the foster brothers of the Royal Princes Henry and Charles. This has been shown to be incorrect. They may possibly however have been sons of Prince Charles's tutor, but even of this we can make no positive assertion, because in the inscription we have no date for our guidance. There are two monuments still remaining which do not come under either of the heads of my division. 1. A stone-coped tomb in the north transept,* with a floriated cross. This is without doubt the earliest monument in the church, and is most probably coeval with the chancel. 2. The monument which has been called Friar Bacon's, but for which title I cannot find the slightest authority : indeed we know as a matter of fact that the friar was buried in Oxford. I doubt indeed whether originally this was a monument at all. The Purbeck slab seems to be out of place, and the recess appears to have been filled up subsequently. Formerly it was probably a simple mural recess, intended no doubt for sepulchral purposes,! and exactly like its neighbour, through which the small entrance door has unfortunately been cut. The inscrip- tion on the brass plate let into the slab is in evident com- memoration of the Waterhouses, there probably buried, as recorded on the mural tablet above. This brass is in itself a curiosity, inasmuch as it is an instance of what are called palimpsests. On the back, if you turn it up, you will find part of another inscription, so that the plate has either been carried off from its original position and made to do duty a second time, or else it has been cancelled on account of some imper- fection. The more modern inscription is as follows : and you will observe the rather unfortunate assertion of the Waterhouses, that they never robbed anybody of anything : — <&ttt gtti) hoc tttimtlo cottftttiK ttjrorquc jarcmug &etrtttam jiacem tnmet ittrtque Heujs * [Now by the side of the Cornwallis tomb.] f [? an Easter sepulchre.] 70 HISTORY OF I3ERKHAMSTED. Htl rm'qitam abstuhmuo gt quttr fcrnefmrnttS tiUt <£st qui pro mtritin pracmta trigna Xtabit. ©fit tamcit una sfalttsi Cristt nugmtto quam qui ^rangis amboimg scpe jimare preror* The inscription on the reverse consists of the following frag- ment, beautifully engraved, probably by the Goldsmith's apprentice, and with an initial letter, representing St. Jerome as a cardinal, with a lion : — ^ffcf gourc riiartte prag for the gout* ^^ : of SThomas fttttufre late of iotttro' goitrjemtgthe antr 3fone h£g fo£ffe the trott Qhttv of &LI i>U i>a m iiagttttt' frmer fohgch Stone trggsesSBtr the m j irag of trecember Above this inscription are the remains of a representation of the goldsmith and his family, consisting apparently of six sons and three daughters, all kneeling : between them has been a figure of St. Michael weighing souls. The date, according to the costume, would be about 1470.* Among the many other and more modern monuments and sepulchral inscriptions in the church, I think there are none which fall exactly within the scope of my lecture. I may just however allude to the gravestone of Christopher Woodhouse, a great man in his day and the last of the bailiffs of Berkhamsted. I mention his tomb, which is in the north transept, because of the long and quaint Latin inscription, in which, after being told that he was " omnis generis morborum curator," we are in- formed i: ita candelae instar dum aliis prodest sibi consumitur die 26 Julii, A.s. 1682, setatis 61." 1 have purposely abstained until now from any allusion to that monument which is perhaps a source of greater interest than * [This palimpsest is now on the sill of window in north transept, with a hinge.] HISTOJtY OF BERKHAMSTED. 71 any other in the church — ■the tablet I mean in the chancel, put up to the memory of Ann Cowper, the mother of the poet. The lines on the tomb, I need hardly say, are not the poet's own, but written by Lady Walsingham. On the stone * within the communion rails which actually covers the remains of the poet's mother is this inscription, which has reference to the adjacent memorial of Catherine Donne : " Here also lyes interred the body of Ann Cowper her daugh- ter and late wife of John Cowper, D.D., rector of the parish, who died Nov. 13, 1736. As also the bodies of Spencer, John, Ann, Theodosia, Judith, and Thomas, the children of the said John and Ann Cowper, who all dyed infants, and Mrs. Cowper died in the thirty-fourth year of her age." You all, of course, know that the poet himself was born at Berkhamsted, in the old rectory house, on the 15th Nov. O.s. 1731. The entry of his baptism is in his father's handwriting in the parish register. " 1731, Dec er , y e 13, Will" 1 y c son of John Cowper, D.D., rector of this Parish, and Anne his wife, was baptized." He died at East Dereham, in Norfolk, on the 25th April, 1800, and there he was buried. I shall not now enlarge upon the life of a man of whom we may all well be proud — a man of whom it has been truly said that if ever any one was born a poet it was Cowper, the poet of Christianity. The life, indeed, and writings of one who has been characterised by Hazlitt as the most popular poet of his generation and the best of English letter-writers, and as one whose poems contain a number of pictures of domestic comfort and social refinement which can hardly be forgotten but with the language itself — the life, in- deed, and writings of such a man so characterised by such a critic would in themselves form a most suitable subject for a lecture before this Institution, and I take this opportunity of expressing a sincere hope that ere long some one capable of so * [Removed to north transept.] 72 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. doing may bo induced to give this subject its deserved attention. On the present occasion, however, as in duty bound, I must just read to you the well-known passage in the beautiful poem which was written on the receipt of his mother's picture, in which he speaks of this his native place. You will recollect that he was just five years old when his mother died. Hear, then, the lines in which he refers to that sad time, and the associations con- nected with it : — I heard the bell tolled on thy burial day, I saw the hearse that bore thee slow away, And, turning from my nurs'ry window, drew A long, long sigh, and wept a last adieu ! * » * ♦ Where once we dwelt, our name is heard no more, Children not thine have trod my nurs'ry floor ; And where the gard'ner Robin,* day by day, Drew me to school f along the public way, Delighted with my bauble coach, and wrapp'd In scarlet mantle warm and velvet cap, 'Tis now become a history little known That once we call'd the past'ral house our own. We may now leave the subject of the church and the asso- ciations connected with it, and speak a few words about the other religious foundations of our town. Of these there seem to have been several. The only two, however, of which we know anything are the hospitals of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist. Both were for poor and infirm persons. Of the former, we shall have to speak more particularly in con- nection with the history of the Grammar School. Of the latter, which appears also to have been sometimes called St. James, and was a hospital for lepers, brethren and sisters, the only remnant is the beautifully clear spring in Mr. Lane's nursery garden, which is still known by the name of St. John's Well. The * Robert Pope, buried January 18th, 1767. f The house recently pulled down by Mr, Martin was pointed out by tradition as the poet's school, HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 73 M Spital mead," as it is still called, behind Mr. Squire's house, and the " Spital trees" which used to stand in front of it, would both tend to prove the extent and importance of this religious foundation. Salmon tells us that in his time many bones were found in digging on the site, and Mr. Lane corroborates this fact by the assertion that even now foundations of buildings and human remains are constantly discovered very near the surface. Both these hospitals appear to have been founded in the reign of King John by Geoffrey Fitz Piers, Earl of Essex, of whom we have had occasion to speak previously in connection with the history of the castle. By him they were piously transferred to more sacred keeping. He gave, says Dugdale, to the brethren of the hospital of St. Thomas of Acres,* in the city of London, the guardianship of St. John Baptist in Berkhamsted, and also the hospital of St. John the Evangelist of Lepers. We hear nothing further of this leper hospital until the time of Henry VIII., when we find the following entry in the inventory of the possessions of Sir Ralph Yerney, Knight, of Albury, who was buried at Berkhamsted, April 26, 1545. u Le over Spittle Howse, otherwise St. John Evangelist's Spittle House ; the second called the Nether Spittle Howse, otherwise St. Leonard's Spittle Howse." Of the hospital here mentioned as St. Leonard's we know nothing further, except that Chauncy tells us it was situated at the south-east end of the High Street. Other religious founda- tions, of which the names only have been preserved, seem to have been, St. Edmund's, which may have been situated near the rectory, since u the close behind the parsonage " is " called St. Edmund's " ; and St. Clement's, on the site of Egerton House, if we may venture to indulge in such a supposition from the fact that a seal inscribed with the name of the frater- nity of St. Clement was recently discovered in the garden * Thomas a. Becket was called St. Thomas of Acres or Aeon, from the assist- ance he was supposed to have rendered to the Crnsaders at the siege of Acre, 74 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. behind it. Tanner also mentions a hospital of St. Thomas the Martyr, but suggests with much probability that either of the hospitals of St. John the Baptist or Evangelist may have re- ceived this name because granted to the hospital of St. Thomas of Aeon, in London. Perhaps here I may be expected to say a few words about the ruin called Marlin's Chapel, which though not actually within our limits is still just on the borders of our parish. In Marlin's or Maudlin's we see probably the remains of the domestic chapel of the adjacent house, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, of which the modern name is a corruption. In Salmon's time it was used as a malt-house ; it is now going fast to decay. The moat which still remains round the house attests the im- portance of the place in former time. Now, as Marlin's is called a mesnalty in Northchurch parish, and as in Dean Incent's rental-book rent for certain property is paid to the u Lord of Magdalene," 7s. 2d. per year altered to 5s. 4d., and further, as there is no mention of the place in the King's books, I think we shall not be wrong if we regard it, as I have done, not as a religious foundation, but as an ancient residence with a domestic chapel attached. It has often been regarded as a ruined chapel of ease to Northchurch, a supposition which may have arisen from the fact that Chauncy tells us there were for- merly many chapels of ease in Northchurch parish which in his time were demolished and converted into barns. There is a great religious foundation still remaining un- noticed, which, though only partially within the actual bounds of our parish, is still so intimately connected in many ways with this town, that I feel sure you will wish me to say something about its history. Of course you will perceive at once that I am alluding to Ashridge. The founder of Ashridge was Edmund Earl of Cornwall, son of the King of the Romans, and nephew of King Henry III. We have already spoken of this royal earl as residing at Berkhamsted. Edmund spent much of his time HIST011Y OF BEltKHAMSTED. 75 abroad, and during one of his travels procured a most valuable relic : this was no less than a particle, as it is called, as being less than a drop, of our Saviour's blood. He met with this precious treasure in Saxony, and succeeded in obtaining it, not- withstanding many difficulties which he had to encounter. He brought it home to Berkhamsted and founded a college in its honour at Ashridge,* or as it was then called Aescrugge, a name derived either from the ashes which grew on the adjacent ridge, or from its situation on the eastern ridge of the Chiltern Hills. To guard this sacred relic, and to pray for the soul of his father, Edmund introduced a new religious order into Eng- land called Bon Hommes, an order under the rule of St. Augus- tine, and supposed by Mosheim to have been a remnant of the Paulicians. They wore a grey or ashy-coloured dress. The foundation at Ashridge consisted of a rector and nineteen brethren, thirteen of whom were obliged to be in holy orders. The charter of the foundation of Ashridge was confirmed by the King (Edward I.), at Langley, on the 17th April, in the 14th year of his reign. Soon after the foundation of the college, it was distinguished by a parliament which was holden in it in the presence of the King. The founder died at Ashridge on the first of October in the year 1300. His bowels were immediately buried, but his heart and flesh were more solemnly interred on the 12 th January, in the presence of Edmund Earl of Kent the King's son, several of the bishops, and many others. After this, his bones were carried to the Abbey of Hailes, which his father had founded, and wore there honoured with a magnificent funeral. The sepulture of his heart at Ashridge was with the heart of Thomas de Cantelupe, Bishop of Hereford, which, according to a MS. in the Bodleian Library, had been removed from Here- * [He bestowed a third of it on the Abbey of Hailes and the other two por- tions he gave to Ashridge. Cf. an interesting Paper read at Hailes Abbey by Mr. Brock and printed in The Athec-neum, Aug. 28, 1875.] 76 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. ford Cathedral to Ashridge by the Pope's particular appointment, and placed with the particle of the Saviour's blood in a golden tabernacle with the respect it deserved. The next great benefactor to Ashridge was the Black Prince. So great indeed was the munificence of this illustrious hero that he has not unfrequently been styled a founder ; indeed such seems to have been his own desire. In his will, for instance, he thus expresses himself, " Item, we give and devise our great table of gold and silver all full of precious reliques, and in the midst a cross of the sacred wood of the cross : and the aforesaid table is set with stones and pearls, i. e. 25 rubies, 34 sapphires, 15 large pearls, and several other sapphires, emeralds and small pearls —to the high altar of our house of Asherugge, lohicli is of our foundation." The Prince's chief claim to the title of founder seems however to lie in the fact that he made up the full com- plement of brethren, only seven of whom had been in holy orders before his time, the rest existing only in name. Many more names are enrolled in the list of benefactors, and among them, the famous Cardinal Henry Beaufort, Bishop of Winchester. Among the rectors occur no remarkable names. The last was Thomas Waterhouse, whom the King always called his " gentleman priest." King Henry was on a visit to his friend in 1530, as appears from the first of the following items in the Privy Purse Expenses : " xvij Aug. 1530. It m the same daye to a slvant of S r Edward Donnes for bringing of a bucke to the Kinge at Ashridge vijs. vjd. " It m the same daye to the keper of Berkhamstede parke in reward vijs. \]d. u It m the xviij daye to Edmonde the foteman for so muche by him gyven in rewarde at Assherige to one that made the dogges to draw water iiijs. viijd." This was five years before the dissolution of the college, for HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 77 Watcrliouse and his brethren surrendered in the year 1535. Waterhouse survived the dissolution many years. He lived in retirement, first in Castle Street, and afterwards at Hemel Hempsted, in the church of which place he desires in his will that he may be buried. He died in the third year of Queen Mary, and bequeathed to the parish church of Great Bark- hamsted his vestment of crimson velvet. The Poet Skelton seems to have been a visitor at Ashridge just before the dissolution. His allusion to the place is most interesting. It occurs in the poem called " The Crowne of Lawrell," and is as follows : — Of the bone horns at Ashridge beside Barcanstede, That goodly place to Skelton most kynde, Where the sange royall is, Christis blood so rede, Whereupon he metrified after his mynde, A pleasanter place than Ashridge is hard were to finde ; As Skelton reherseth with words fewe and playne, In his distich on made in verses twayne, Fraxinus in clivo frondetque viret sine rivo, Non est sub divo similis sine flumine vivo. Such are the verses about Ashridge which occur in the " pithy, pleasant, and profitable workes of maister Skelton, Poete Laureate." I may here mention that the relic of the blood to which Skelton alludes, and of which we have spoken previously, was discovered to be honey clarified and coloured with saffron, and as such was publicly exposed at Paul's Cross by Holbeach Bishop of Kochester, 24 Feb. 1538. After the dissolution, Ashridge unquestionably became the residence of royalty. To whatever tenant it may have been assigned during the remainder of King Henry's days, we find that it was bestowed on the Princess Elizabeth by her brother King Edward,* and we know that she resided here in the reign * We are told by Browne Willis that Edward VI. was nursed at Ashridge, and Archdeacon Todd suggests that this may be the origin of the name " Prince's Riding," as applied to the western avenue. 78 HISTORY OF BBRKHAMSTED. of Queen Mary. It is from Ashridge that she writes to her brother in 1351, when the sweating sickness was raging; and she was residing there after Queen Mary's accession, when Wyatt's rebellion broke out. On a groundless suspicion that she was connected with it, commissioners were instantly dis- patched to Ashridge with orders to remove her immediately to London. When they arrived it was ten o'clock at night. The Princess was ill and in bed. The commissioners, declaring that they would take her whether alive or dead, rushed un- ceremoniously into her bed-room and bade her be ready without fail by nine o'clock in the morning. She was accordingly hurried off, weak and feeble as she was, and on her arrival in town was committed a close prisoner to the Tower. It was by water that she was conveyed to her prison, and it was on land- ing, with one foot on the stairs, that she uttered those ever memorable words, " Here landeth as true a subject, being a prisoner, as ever landed at these stairs, and before thee, God, I speak it, having none other friend but Thee alone." After Elizabeth's accession to the throne, she granted Ash- ridge to one of her gentlemen pensioners, William Gorge ; afterwards, in the 17th year of her reign, to John Dudley ; and finally, in 1580, to Lady Cheney. From Lady Cheney, Ash- ridge passed through the hands of Ralph Marshal and Randolph Crew, the last of whom, by an indenture dated 21 Oct., in the 2d year of James I., made it over to Sir Thomas Egerton, Lord Ellesmere, who had been Lord Keeper to Queen Elizabeth, and was now Lord High Chancellor to the King. He was succeeded by his son John, Lord President of Wales. The Lord President was the first Earl of Bridgewater, and it was before him in Ludlow Castle that Milton's " Comus" was originally presented. The Lord President's son, the second earl, was the next posses- sor of Ashridge. During the Civil war this accomplished noble- man embraced the cause of the King, and therefore we are not surprised to find that in 1643 his mansion was plundered by the HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 79 Parliamentarian soldiers, and all the plate carried off. He him- self was several times in danger ; fortunately, however, he sur- vived until the Restoration, when his great abilities were par- ticularly noticed by the sovereign. He was a distinguished patron of the arts and sciences, and the friend of all the learned men of his time, and he it was who especially encouraged the learned Pole in his celebrated work Synopsis Criticorum. Before we proceed, it may be interesting to notice a royal warrant which was granted to this earl in the September following the King's restoration. From this document, which as to game is curious respecting Ashridge and its neighbourhood, I have made the following extract : — " Charles R. 1* . . . Whereas we are informed that our game of hare, pheasant, partridge, heron, and other wilde fowle about Ash- ridge ... is much destroyed by divers disorderly persons with greyhounds, mongrells, setting doggs, guns, trammells, tunnells, netts, and other engines, contrary to the statutes of this our realme, For the better preservation hereof, and that our game may be the better preserved for our sport and recreation, at such times as we shall resort unto those parts : We do hereby will and command . . . that no person doe hereafter use any of the said unlawfull meanes ... to hurt, or kill, our said game . . . within ten miles compasse of the said Ashridge . . . We doe hereby give full power and authority unto you, . . to seise and take away . . the said engines, and to certify us of the names of any persons soe offending, to the end such further order may be taken for their punishment as shall be fitt. . . Given under our signet at our Palace att Whitehall, this 25th day of September, in the twelfe yeare of our Reigne." On the death of this nobleman, he was succeeded by his son John the third earl ; he again by his son Scroop the fourth earl and first duke, from whose daughter, Lady Louisa Egerton, is descended the present Lord Ellesmere. The two elder brothers 80 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. of this Scroop were burnt in the great fire at Bridgewater House, Barbican, April, 1687. The duke was succeeded by his son John, who died unmarried, aged twenty. His successor was his brother Francis the third duke, and the illustrious "father of inland navigation." It was in memory of this nobleman, as you all know, that the Ashridge column was erected. You will all probably be also aware that it was by him that the old college was pulled down. To give some idea of what the building was before its demolition, I may perhaps be allowed to quote the words of its accomplished historian, the late Archdeacon Todd. He tells us that the front of the man- sion or college was inclosed within a court, to which the entrance was through a handsome gateway, formerly the porter's lodge ; but large enough to contain several good apartments, in which the late Duke of Bridgewater resided. . . Being entered into the court, the principal front presented itself to view, and along the middle part ran the seven high gothic windows of the hall. . . The account of this noble room, as preserved by Browne Willis, corresponds nearly with its last appearance, some of the painted glass only being then wanting ; but the beautifully fretted roof, as well as the gallery over the screens, escaped the notice of that famous antiquary. He says, " The Kefectory or Convent-hall, which seems to answer to one area or side of the cloisters, is very high and lofty. 'Tis in length forty-four feet, and in breadth twenty- two, and is a very well proportioned room." The next object of delightful curiosity which here presented itself was the cloisters. They formed a quadrangle, the length of them, according to Browne Willis, being forty-one feet, and the breadth ten and a half. On the walls were beautifully painted in water colours forty compartments representing scenes from the sacred narrative. . . The conventual church, according to Mr. Gough's statement, stood in what was the garden ranging with the cloisters, " What sort of fabrick it was," says Browne Willis, in a letter to Scroop Duke of Bridgewater, " it is not HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 81 easy to guess, tho' I presume it was two-thirds longer than the cloysters, which in religious houses generally made a third part of the church. ... By a legacy of 100 11 of Cardinal Beaufort, Bishop of Winchester, A 1447, I judge the cloyster and good part of the house now standing were built temp. Hen. VI., within less than a hundred years before the Reformation, and being a good building occasioned its being preserved." So much for the old college, which, as I have said, was pulled down by the duke — " the father of inland navigation." It was his intention to build a new mansion on a magnificent scale, and in furtherance of this design he had accumulated many materials. He did not however live to accomplish his designs, but died on the 8th March, 1803, three years after the demo- lition of the college. As he died unmarried, the property came to his cousin John William, son of the bishop of Durham, who was earl, and not duke, since the dukedom descended only in the direct line. The new earl zealously carried into effect the intentions of his predecessor, and was the builder of the present mansion.* It may be well to remark, in the words of Todd, that it is built nearly upon the site of the ancient house, belonging to which no room retaining a roof remained when the Earl of Bridge water came into possession of the estate. There were indeed remaining two lodges ; one the entrance gateway to the house, the other to the stable-yard; and the engine-house, which covered a well 275 feet deep. Of the ancient offices nothing useful was left except the conventual barn, a stable, and a cellar, f Having thus brought down the history of Ashridge to the period of the erection of the present mansion, it is time for me * John William Earl of Bridgewater died Oct. 21, 1823. He was succeeded in the title by his brother Francis, the prime mover of the " Treatises," who died in Paris in 1829, and was the last Earl of Bridgewater. f [There is an excellent paper on Ashridge, printed in the Saturday Jleview, Sept. 9, 1876.] G 82 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. to change the subject, and say a word or two about other things which demand attention : and first the Grammar School. I have before alluded to the Grammar School when I had occasion to mention the Hospital of St. John the Baptist; as however the connection between these two foundations is not generally very clearly understood, it may be well just to say a few words on this subject: and first as to the Hospital of St. John the Baptist. This, as we have said, was founded as a hospital for poor and infirm persons, by Geoffrey Fitz Piers, Earl of Essex, in the reign of King John, and given by him to the guardianship of the College of St. Thomas Aeon in London. "We hear nothing further of the brotherhood until the time arrived when all such foundations were more generally brought into notice, the time I mean when the whole of Europe was roused as it were from slumber by the general revival of learning, and the consequent reformation of religion. It was in the ninth year of King Henry VIII., as we find from documents belonging to the school, that certain property was let on lease to one John Hewitt of Berkhamsted, sadler, by " John Long, citizen and Salter of London, and President, William Petitt, Thomas Benner, and Thomas Hickman, Wardens, of the Brotherwhode of St. John Baptist within the borough of Berkhamsted Peter, and the feoffees of lands belonging to them." From the fact therefore that the then President was a London tradesman and non- resident, we are naturally led to the conclusion that the hospital had dwindled into a sinecure. And so perhaps it might have remained, had not the next President been a man fully alive to the responsibility of his position, and pre-eminently anxious for the good of his fellow-creatures. This was none other than the famous Dr. Incent, a man whom Fuller justly classes amongst the worthies of England. The Incent family appear to have intermarried with the Torringtons, of whom I have already spoken in treating of the history of the church. We have also seen that Robert, the father of the doctor, is described on his HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 83 tomb as the servant, i. e. probably the Secretary, of the famous Cicely Duchess of York. They were thus residents of some standing* in our town, and in all probability lived in Mr. Holloway's house, which in the Dean's rental-book goes by the name of " Incent's," and is described as inherited property rented at that time by one Kichard Weller. We may assume therefore that John Incent was born in Incent's house. Where he received his early educa- tion we know not ; probably he discovered thus early the want of a school in his native town. When ready for the university, we find that he first went to Cambridge, where he spent a year in studying the canon law. He then however entered All Souls College, Oxford, where he took the degree of LL.B. Jan. 26, 1507. In 1513 he supplicated for LL.D., but Wood says he was not then admitted. In the same year he was made Commissary to Fox, Bishop of Winchester, and President of the Episcopal Consistory. In 1519 he was collated to the prebend of Wildland. Some time between this and 1523, if not before, he must have been appointed President of our brotherhood, because it was in this year, according to Chauncy, that active measures were first taken for extending the usefulness of the brotherhood, by the diver- sion of its income towards the general purposes of education. How this idea was first suggested we know not. Chauncy says that it was by the agreement or petition of the people of the town. However this may have been, and whatever authority over the lands of the brotherhood may have been vested in the inhabitants of the town, it is certain that this plan of making the fraternity useful for purposes of education was one in which Dr. Incent as President entirely acquiesced. According to Chauncy, he forthwith sent a schoolmaster to teach the children of the townspeople in the brotherhood house ; and, * It is interesting to remark that the name occurs as late as 1621, when we find one Richard, the son of Jasper Innocent deceased, apprenticed to Thomas Ran- doll, a tailor in Berkhamsted. G2 84 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. though this may have been done nominally by the President and Wardens of the fraternity, we may be sure that the good work was largely supported by the private liberality of Dr. Incent. Chauncy asserts, indeed, that he then made over considerable landed property to the brotherhood, though of this we have no proof beyond the bare statement of the historian. We can easily understand, however, that in this manner things went on for some years, all being still done in the name of the brotherhood, but chiefly and really through the munificent liberality of the President himself. In the mean time, Dr. Incent had been collated (13th June, 1524) to the mastership of the hospital of St. Cross at Winchester. He had also been made Canon Resi- dentiary of St. Paul's ;* and when canon, in 1534, we find that he with his brethren took the oath of supremacy to the King. He seems, indeed, throughout to have been a firm supporter of the reformed doctrines ; and as a final and deserved reward for his energetic conduct he was promoted in 1540 to the deanery of St. Paul's, and it was as dean that he signed the document in which a synod of divines sanctioned the King's divorce from Anne of Cleves. Thus raised to eminence in the Church, and thus, with all his preferment, in the receipt of what must in those days have been an enormous income, we might easily have imagined that our little brotherhood at Berkhamsted would have been totally forgotten in the midst of so much honour and glory. But not so : the dean did not forget his native town ; he had set his heart upon its improvement, and he determined, from the insignificance of a petty guild, to raise a foundation which should ennoble his name for ever. He was not one of those who * [Foxe (Acts and Monuments) seenis to have had a special dislike to Dr. Incent. He narrates that he was present in the choir of St. Paul's, 20 Nov. 1531, when Richard Bayfield, alias Somersam, was sentenced to death for heresy; and he further states (edit. 1857, vol. v. p. 220), that Dr. Incent, Dean of St. Paul's, confessed on his death-bed that he had hired an Italian " for 60 crowns or thereabouts to do the feat " of murdering Robert Packington, mercer, of London, in 1538 !] HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 85 are content with the state of things as at present existing ; he thought, and wisely too, that in those days of commotion, lands were unsafe so long as they remained under the title of a brotherhood. Accordingly he applied to the King for a licence, which was granted October 14, 1541, and by which, through letters patent, he was empowered to u make, erect, and found one chauntry perpetuall of two chaplains or of one chaplain within the parish church of Barkhampstedde, and a schole for boys not exceeding 144, to be called ' Dean Incent's Free Schole and Chauntry in Barkhampstedde ' for evermore." The yearly value of the property of this foundation was not to exceed 40Z. At Incent's death, the King was to nominate the Master, and the Dean of St. Paul's the chaplain and usher. Thus empowered, the dean set about consolidating his long-cherished design on a liberal and extended scale. By a deed dated 23rd March, 36 Hen. VIII., he gave to the master, chaplain, and usher his own inherited property in Berkhamsted, i. e. Mr. Holloway's and the adjacent house. This is the first gift mentioned in the deed. We are next told that he gave to them all the lands which he purchased of the wardens of the fraternity of St. John Baptist. From this, therefore, it would appear that as President he had made compensation to the wardens for the brotherhood property which was then let on lease, dated 9 Hen. VIII., for 60 years to one John Hewett at the yearly rent of 6s. 8d. We further find from the dean's rental-book, dated 33 Hen. VIII., that he paid a quit-rent of 17s. 8d. for this property to the King, who had probably assumed the guardianship which was originally granted to the Hospital of St. Thomas of Aeon. The dean then made this property over as a part of his liberal benefactions to the school : a part, I say, and indeed it was but a very small part, for the value of the brotherhood property is insignificant when compared with the grants which the deed proceeds to enumerate. There is house property and land purchased by the clean in Berkhamsted from various "possessors, landed property 8Q HISTORY OF BEBKHAMSTED. purchased from the heirs of the celebrated Delahay, called " Sommers, with the Baylywyke of the honor of Berkhamsted, as also Eastbroke Hay in helmehamstedde." There is land in the county of Southampton purchased by Robert Sherborne, Bishop of Chichester, which was subsequently claimed by the master of the Hospital of St. Cross, and there is land purchased in Northchurch parish called Amberlains, which still belongs to the school. All this Dean Incent bought, and with all this he proceeded to endow his newly-founded school. We may now say a few words about the building in which all the munificence was to be turned to good account. The brotherhood house, wherever that may have been, would obvi- ously be too insignificant for the fulfilment of the dean's liberal intentions ; besides which, it was at this time let on lease as a residence. We find tenants in it in 1552 and 1557, on tho former of which occasions a curious entry occurs in the lease- book, to the effect that William Puddefat and William Lessom, the then tenants, paid to Richard Reeve the master and John Awdley the usher of the school a penny a-piece in token of peaceable possession. The brotherhood house therefore being insufficient for the dean's intended plans, he proceeded to erect a building more in accordance with his designs. Salmon tells us that this school-house was twenty years in building : he must have meant the school in founding, as indeed we find from Chauncy was really the case. The actual assertion is impos- sible, because the dean lived to see the accomplishment of his work, and he would hardly begin even to think of building it before he received the royal licence, and this licence was re- ceived by him only three years before his death. Chauncy gives us a very interesting account of the erection of the school. He says, " Then " (i e. when the dean had received the royal licence) u with the assistance of the inhabitants of the town and his friends, he erected a fair large school of brick and free stone, with a lodging for the schoolmaster adjoyning to thp west HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED, 87 end thereof, where the clean himself did lye and kept house divers times before his death : and at the east end of the school were two other lodgings erected, one for the usher, the other for the chaplain or chantry priest, which building remains at this day very fair and strong:" and if it were very fair and strong in Chauncy's time, it is not less so in our own. When Camden wrote about Berkhamsted in the time of James I. he declared that the Grammar School was the only thing worth seeing in the place, and, though I scarcely think we shall all agree with him in this unmeasured praise, I am sure we must all feel that the building is decidedly ornamental, and con- tributes not a little to that characteristic picturesqueness for which Berkhamsted is famous. After describing the erection of the school, Chauncy proceeds to give us an account of the ceremonial which attended its opening. He says, " When the school was finished, the dean sent for the chief men in this town, and gave thanks with them upon their knees to Almighty God for having given him life to see the perfection of that work which both he, the town, and the country had been performing about the space of twenty years ; then he called Mr. Reeve and placed him in the seat there made for the schoolmaster, and so did ordain, make, and pronounce him the first master of the school : then gave to him and his successors for ever possession of the lodgings appertaining to that office ; also he constituted Mr. John Audley usher, and Mr. John East chaplain. This done, he gave possession by his deed dated 23rd March, an. 36 Henry VIII., to Richard Reeve, John Audley, and John East, and their successors for ever, of all the lands granted to the school, which are particularly ex- pressed in the said Act of Parliament. Then the dean began Te Deum laudamus, which being finished, with certain other prayers and ceremonies, the whole company drank together and departed." Such is the account of the opening of our Grammar School 88 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. and the installation of its first master. Of this master we have a very interesting notice in Wood's " Athenae," and I will read it to you, because it serves to shew us the good common-sense and sound churchmanship of the dean in selecting such a man for such a place. " Richard Reeve," says Wood, " of All Souls College, was admitted M.A. the same day (May 11, 1537). He was afterwards the first Prebendary of the ninth prebendship of Westminster, an. 1560, Canon of Windsor in 1561, and the Queen's Chaplain. This person is remembered by John Foxe in his book of the Acts and Monuments of the Church, to have been the noted schoolmaster of Berchamstede in Hertfordshire, and that for his zeal to Protestancy he was brought into some kind of trouble in the reign of Queen Mary. He died in 1594, leaving behind him the character of a reli- gious and learned man ; whereupon Cuthbert Bellot, M.A. succeeded him in his prebendship, and Alex. Nowell, Dean of St. Paul's Cathedral, in his canonry." Such was the man selected by Dean Incent as a fit and proper person to promote the interests of sound learning and religious education at Berkhamsted. It is a matter of regret that the dean himself did not live long to enjoy the fruits of his labours, for he died in the year 1545, about a year after the opening of the school which he had erected. Clutterbuck tells us that he was buried in the church in his own chancel : of this, however, there is now no memorial. The year after the dean's death, according to Chauncy, some evil-disposed persons attempted to show that more revenue had been granted to the school than was permitted by the royal licence. This assertion was immediately disproved, on the autho- rity of a royal commission. The sum allowed in the licence was 40Z., and the whole rental of the land was shown not to ex- ceed 301. 13s. 8d. In the first year of the reign of Edward VI. the school experienced much trouble at the hands of a man of the name of Forster, who professed to be the dean's heir, and is HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 89 supposed, according to Chauncy, by some means or other to have gained possession of the will and licence of incorporation. It was feared therefore that the legal foundation of the school might be considered imperfect. The schoolmaster accordingly petitioned Parliament to con- firm the erection and foundation of the school. The prayer of this petition was granted. The master however had to be em- powered to sell some of the property in order to pay fifty marks to the right heir, "Andrew In cent, cosyn and heir of John Incent," who appears to have been inclined to profit by the disturbance occasioned by the pretended one. The final establishment therefore of the school on a firm foundation dates from this time, when by Act of Parliament, in the third and fourth year of his reign, Edward VI. incorporated it by the name of " The Master and Usher of the Free School of King Edward the Sixte in Berkehampstedde." Here, you will observe, is no mention, as in the original foundation, of a chaplain, because all chantries had in the interim been sup- pressed. Another alteration too may be noticed. The appoint- ment of usher was taken from the deans of St. Paul's and put into the hands of the master. The gift of the mastership still remains in the Crown.* King Edward also assigned to the school a common seal, bearing the arms of Dean Incent, and constituted as visitor the warden of the dean's college, All Souls, Oxford. The history of the school since this period is a matter of notoriety. It is perhaps, however, not so generally known that the famous Dr. Field, who was born at Hemel Hempsted, and who in King James I.'s time wrote the very learned book of "The Church," received his education at Berk- hamsted School, from which he proceeded to Magdalene College, Oxford, f * For a list of Masters and Ushers, vide App. V. f [The Grammar School is now administered under a scheme dated 23 Oct. 1877.] 90 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. I may now leave the Grammar School and proceed to make a few remarks upon another excellent foundation in our town — I mean the Bourne Charity School ; for, although it has no pretensions to antiquity, I feel sure you will all agree with me, that a lecture such as the present would be incomplete without some allusion to it. Of Thomas Bourne, the founder, we know very little. The only memorials of his life are connected with the memorials of his death. It is on his tomb in Camberwell churchyard that we find him described as of Lambeth, though during the latter part of his life he seems to have lived at Camberwell. It is on this same monument, which it appears he himself erected, that he mourns the loss of an only son, a the object of his joy, the flower of all his hopes," who died in 1724, in the 41st year of his age. In the following year Mr. Bourne was again thrown into mourning by the death of his wife. He survived her four years, and died on the 7th November, 1729, aged seventy-three. In his will he makes ample provision for nis son's widow, who married again, and for all his nearest relatives, and then, as God had put it into his heart, leaves the rest of his substance in charity. There is now an almshouse in Kingsland Road, Middlesex, built in 1734, pursuant to his Will, for twelve poor men or their widows of the company of Framework Knitters, of which he himself was a member ; but we of this place have received the largest share of his bounty, and the reason why he made selection of our town may in some degree be accounted for by the fact that he had a married sister living in Berkhamsted, at whose house in all probability he must have been a frequent visitor. She was married to a Mr. Rolfe, and in the parish register is the following entry of her burial: u June y e 15, 1732, Sarah, y e late wife of John Rolfe was buried." She and her children, all of whom were chris- tened here, are severally mentioned in Mr. Bourne's Will. Whether this were the sole connection between Mr. Bourne and Berkhamsted we cannot say. There are certainly many entries HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 91 in the early registers of the name " Borne." These date from 1543 to 1569. Again, in 1682, we meet with the baptisms of Ann and Abigail the daughters of an Edward Bourn. After Mr. Bourne's time we find several of the name. A William Bourne was chosen church and vestry clerk in 1794, and the late mistress of the school was Ann Bourne, a relative of the founder. But we must leave the family history, and proceed with an account of the public munificence, of this good man. By his Will, dated 14 Aug. 1727, Mr. Bourne left 8,000Z. for the establishment of a charity school in our town, 700/. of which was to be expended on the erection of a building. Some delay occurred on the part of the executors in carry- ing out these instructions, and accordingly the then rector Dr. Cowper and the churchwardens instituted legal pro- ceedings against them. The result was an order from the Attorney-General, dated 20 May, 1735, that the money which had accumulated by the delay to 9,300Z. should forthwith be paid, and that 700Z. of this should be spent, according to the Will, in the erection of a school-house. The money was invested in New South-Sea Annuities, in the name of the Accountant-General of the Court of Chancery, and the manage- ment of the school was placed in the hands of a board of gover- nors. A school-house was forthwith erected, and Edward and Eliza Eastmead were appointed the first master and mistress. He was schoolmaster twenty years, and died Oct. 1, 1761. His wife survived him three years. They are both buried in the nave of the church. I need hardly tell you that the charity of the pious founder is still commemorated annually, according to his Will, on his birthday, Dec. 16. Of the re-builder, the re- founder I might say, of the Bourne School, it is not for me to speak : it will be for others in after ages as they speak of him to bless his memory.* * [This foundation is now regulated by Scheme, dated 28 Oct. 1879.] 92 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. Perhaps, now that I have spoken of the educational founda- tions of our town, it would not be out of place to say a few words about that remarkable person on whom not all the schools and all the schoolmasters of England, much less of Berkhamsted, could ever make the slightest impression : you will at once per- ceive that I am alluding to Peter the Wild Boy. We cannot certainly claim him as a fellow-parishioner ; but, as no doubt he was very often in our town, 1 dare say I may be excused if I once again transgress our parish bounds. It was in the month of July, 1724, that Jurgen Meyer, a townsman of Hamelin, in Hanover, found in his field, in the act of sucking a cow, a naked, brownish, black-haired boy, apparently about twelve years old. Bound his neck were frag- ments of a shirt, otherwise he was without clothing of any kind. Upon two apples being shown him, he was enticed into the town, and placed for safe custody in a hospital, by order of the Burgomaster. He was called Peter by the boys of the place, who were greatly delighted with his odd and harmless pranks. He gradually became accustomed to many of the usages of society, but could never be taught to speak. In the year 1726, he was sent for by George I. to Hanover, upon which, by order of Queen Caroline, then the Princess of Wales, he was brought over to England and put under the care of Dr. Arbuthnot. Masters of every description were now provided for him, but by none of them could he ever be taught to speak articulately. The plainest words he was ever known to utter were, Peter ; Ki Sho, and Qui Ca, the two latter being attempts at pronouncing King George and Queen Caroline. Peter being pronounced a confirmed idiot by Dr. Arbuthnot, was next entrusted to the care of Mrs. Tichborne, one of the Queen's bedchamber women. This lady was a periodical visitor at Mr. Fenn's farm at Hax- ter's-end, and there she placed Peter, with 351. a-year from the Crown for his maintenance. After the death of Mr. Fenn Peter was removed to Broadway, a farm then in the occupation HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 93 of Mr. Fenn's brother Thomas, with whom and his successors in the farm Peter remained until his death. I may here notice that Broadway, besides being thus remarkable as the residence of the Wild Boy, is also famous as being the first farm in Eng- land on which red clover and Swede turnips were ever grown. Surely then Broadway, graced too and distinguished as it now is by the beautiful little chapel of ease to Northchurch, is a locality full of interest to us all. But to proceed with the life of Peter : whilst at Broadway he was a constant frequenter of the woods in the neighbourhood, where he used to find pleasure in feeding upon the buds of young trees and eating acorns. On one occa- sion he extended his wanderings rather too far, so far indeed as the county of Norfolk, where he was arrested as one of the Pretender's spies. When brought before the magistrates, as of course he did not speak, he was forthwith committed to Norwich gaol as contumacious. The night after his committal a fire broke out in the prison. Peter seemed in no way alarmed, but on the contrary greatly amused, in watching the progress of the flames. Indeed it was with great difficulty that he was at length rescued. In the meantime Mr. Fenn had put an adver- tisement in the papers, and it was thus at last that he was dis- covered. To prevent the recurrence of such an event, he ever afterwards wore a brass collar inscribed with his guardian's address.* Peter was particularly fond of music : indeed, scarcely anything else seems to have made any impression on him. He was well made: his only peculiarity being that two fingers of his left hand were webbed up to the middle joint. It was satisfactorily ascertained by Dr. Arbuthnot that he was an ordinary idiot, and hence we need feel no alarm * This collar is now preserved at Ashridge, and was, with other relics, ex- hibited at the lecture by the kindness of Lady Marian Alford. The collar is of leather, with a brass rim, on which is this inscription: " Peter the Wild Man from Hanover. Whoever will bring him to Mr. Fenn, at Berkhamsted, Hertford- shire, shall be paid for their trouble." 94 HISTORY OF BERKHAM8TED. at any of the extraordinary philosophical speculations which have been advanced concerning him. Whilst at Broadway he was visited by Lord Monboddo, and it was probably owing to this interview with Peter that that eccentric philosopher started his peculiar notion that men are mere monkeys without tails. I may remark that Peter is mentioned by Paley in that portion of his Moral Philosophy in which he treats of the moral sense, and is also made the subject of pungent satire by the famous Dean Swift under the prefix " It cannot rain but it pours ! " But it is time that I should tell you of Peter's death: he had no regular illness, but refused his food and pined away. He died Feb. 22nd, 1785, aged about seventy-two. He lies buried at Northchurch, in the churchyard near the south porch, and a brass tablet has been erected in the church with his por- trait and an inscription to his memory.* I must now return to Berkhamsted, and see what else demands our attention. Perhaps the subject of our late Market-house may occur to some of you, and probably you would like to hear all the more about it because now we can look on it no longer.f It formed the last of a set of buildings of which now every trace is gone. I cannot give you a better idea of what they were than by reading to you some extracts from the Report of the Par- liamentarian Commissioners in July, 1653. It is preserved in the parish chest, and entitled u A survey of the Markett Howse, Shambles . . and Markett within the Towne and Burrough of Barkhamsted St. Peters . . parcell of the possessions of Charles Stuart late King of England." We then read as follows : — " All that Markett House standing and being within the Towne * For further particulars of the life of Peter, see the Northchurch Register, in which is an insertion by the Rev. W. Bland, the then master of the Grammar School. This is copied into the Gent. Mag. 1785. See also Gent. Mag. lv. 113; Penny Mag. May 1833, and Jan. 1834. f The Market-house was destroyed by fire Aug. 23, 1854. [A handsome new one built on different site 1859.] HISTOKY OF BEKKHAMSTED. 95 . . aforesaid, being the Corne Markett, built with Timber and covered with Tyle and lofted overhead, and now in the possession of the churchwardens . . conteyning in length 70 foote of assize or thereaboute, and in breadth 18 foote or thereaboute, which were value to be worth by the yeare, xxxs. " All that Markett House called the Butter Markett . . . conteyning 18 foote square, xs. " . . . All those Shambles called the Butchers' Shambles, divided into severall stalles, near y e Markett Howses . . con- teyning in length 50 foote, and in breadthe 12 foote, xvs. " The Profitt of the Tolles, Fayres, and Markett wee value to be worthe by the year the sum of sixe poundes, viV Now from a paper in the chest, endorsed " Certificate of Toll, No. 25," we find that these shambles were built by subscription during the reign of Queen Elizabeth. This information is copied from "a very faire large book styled the Booke of the Church, made the fifth day of Feb. 1584, and given to the Parish by Thomas Penn, Citticen and Vintner of London." We have previously had occasion to lament the loss of this valuable book.* There are several curious entries in the paper copied from the book, among which are the following : — " For timber for framing and finishing the markett crosse, with all carpenters worke, xljs. " To Thomas Gates, for his worke and his man's, about the Church House, Shamble House, Crosse House, Markett House, and the Church, Zl. "Also for lath nailes for the Crosse House, 2,000, 3s. " Also paid to Edward Cooper for carriage of chalk to make the Crosse House, 8cL" Several other entries are next quoted to shew that on divers occasions the toll was paid to the churchwardens, they paying a quit-rent to the Crown. So matters seem to have gone on until Mr. Sayer became His Majesty's tenant at Berkhamsted. What followed will be best * [Vide?. 54.] 96 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. explained by the accompanying Petition, which is also pre- served in the church chest: — " To the most serene and mighty Prince Charles the Second, by the grace of God King of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland, Defender of the Faith, &c. " The humble Petition of your Inhabitants of y r Majesties Towne and Borough of Barkhamsted St. Peter, in the county of Hertford, " Sheweth, " That whereas the Church belonging to the said Towne, being an ancient and large fabrique and yo r Ma tes Free Schoole therein situate, have time out of mind injoyed Markett Houses and Baly- wick, w tb severall other Kevenues for the upholding of the said Church, maintenance of the Free Schoole, and reliefe of the Poore, for w h only a quitt rent of 2s. 8d. per annum hath been paid unto y r Ma ties Predecessors for some hundreds of yeares, as by divers surveyes and recordes of y e Church clearly and fully appeares, The Premises notwithstanding are now and for some years past have been unjustly detained from the said Church, Free Schoole, and Poore, by y r Ma ties Servant and Cooke John Sayer, Esq r ., who doth much trouble your Petitioners with suites in y r Ma ties name, under pretence of a grant from your Ma tie , to the great and singular prejudice of the above-named particulars : " May it therefore please y r Most Excellent Ma tie out of y r princely care and compassion to referr the grievance either to the Eight Hon We the Lord Keeper or some other person or persons of honour, to take some speedy and effectuall course for y e redressing of soe scandalous a depredation. " And your Ma ties loyall subjects and servants, as in duty bound, shall ever pray, &c. Joh. Napier, Rector. Thomas Topping, ) Church* Chris. Woodhouse, Medicus. William Gelling, J wardens. Thomas Aldridge. HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 97 Nathan Payne, Thos. Fossau, } Schoolc- Williara Babb, Senior, John Seare, ) masters." &c. &c. &c. Such was the Petition to the King. The case was tried in the Court of Exchequer, and by an award of Sir Francis North, dated Nov. 27th, 1674, was decided against the inhabitants and in favour of Mr. Sayer. Mr. Sayer was, as we have before noticed, the founder of our alms-houses ; and it may be well to mention his charitable bounty here, in order that we may not regard him altogether in the light of the enemy of the parish. By his Will, dated 2nd July, 1681, he left for the founding of this alms-house 1,000?. After his death his widow erected the building which now exists. To her late husband's 1,000?. she added 300?. and upwards. By her Will she appointed as executors Sir John Sayer, Kt., His Majesty's Attorney-General, and the Rev. Joseph Sayer, Archdeacon of Lewes and Rector of Northchurch. The alms- houses are built for six poor widows, and in Mrs. Sayer's Will 8s. a month is directed to be paid to each of them u on the tombstone in the parish church of Berkhamsted, near the monument lately erected for the said John Sayer, Esq., on the Sunday after evening service." The indistinctness of this in- junction is quite a sufficient excuse for its non-fulfilment. We have already in speaking of the Market House alluded to the Church House or Court House, or, as it is called in a petition to King Charles II., also concerning Mr. Sayer, ii the Church House, with a hall thereto called the Towne Hall." This building, as you know, is still in existence, and in it are held the Courts of the Honor and Manor of Berkhamsted.* This Honor and Manor is very extensive. Chauncy tells us * [Granted by Earl Brownlow to trustees at a nominal rent, and now used aa the National School.] H 98 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. that the whole number of towns in Hertfordshire, Buckingham- shire, and Northamptonshire belonging to it are fifty-five. The Courts which used to be held twice in the year, at Whitsuntide and Michaelmas, are now held for Berkhamsted, as we have said, at the Court House, and for Northchurch at the Castle only once a year at Michaelmas. At these Courts, besides the usual business, the following officers are still nominated : Constables, Vice-Constables or Headboroughs, Flesh-tasters, Leather-sealers, Tasters of Bread and Beer, and Water-bailiffs. Many leases of the property from the churchwardens to suc- cessive tenants are preserved in the chest, the former always reserving to themselves the right of using the great loft, as well at other times as when they shall keep their feast. Now, from a fragmentary document in the chest without any date, but apparently written about the reign of Henry VIII., we may perhaps be enabled to picture to ourselves the kind of fare at one of these Berkhamsted parish feasts in former times. u These ben y e expenses of dyner at harry dawnsserris howsse. Imprimis to hewe bocher for beffe, xiiid. payid to william gome for beffe, iid. payid to the same hewe for motton, xid. payid to John cawpyon for felle, xvd. payid to symkyn long for a legke of motton, iid. payid for sewette for bak mettes, id. payid di. a pecke salte, id. ob. payid iii pykys, xvd. payid iii gesse, xviiid. payid for xix pygonys, viiid. payid for xix checonys, xxd. payid to John berd for i kapon, \iiid. payid iii kaponys, xiid. payid for 1 oz. peper, Hid. payid 1 unce clowys & masys, iiiid. HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 99 payid for di unce safferon, vid. payid for di. li raysonys of corradines, id. ob. payid for 1 oz. powder geenger, and synemond, vid. payid for ii unce sewger iid. payid for hony, id. payid for heyggys, vd. payid for wenegor and wergews, iid!. payid musstard, id. payid for mylke & krem, iid. payid for batter, id. payid for perys, iid. payid for chesse, id. payid for bred, xxd. ob. payid to jane plomer for hale, xxii galonys, iis. Yd. payid to hurdys wyffe for hale, iii galonys, iiiid ob. payid to willm gonvys wyffe vi galonys hale, viiid. payid iii pottellys smale hale, id. ob. payid for wode to harry dawnsserys wyffe, iiiid. payid for kaldyng for piggys & poltry, iid. payid to the koke & to hys man, ixs. payid to sqweeler ■& turner of spytys, iid. payid to y e botteler, iiiidf. payid to y e turner of the spetys, ob. payid for karpys, id. payid flowre, iiiid. payid formetie, id. Sofh. xxis. yd. Also for horsmete, xviiid" The parish feast being over, and the bill duly paid, we will suppose an adjournment to the Buttfield. The Butts, Buttricke, or Buttfield, is situated behind the King's Arms, and was left to the parish by an unknown donor. The rent which it produces is carried to the Bread Fund. The Buttfield tells us of the manners and customs of our fore* 100 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTBD. fathers. It was by shooting at the butt that our ancestors were trained for war. In the time of the Edwards and Henrys, when Berkhamsted was in its glory, u the myghte of the realme of Englonde stode upon archeres " ; in fact the battles of Crecy and Agincourt and many others were decided by the English long-bows. At Crecy certainly the English had some pieces of cannon, but these were the first that had ever been used on any remarkable occasion. Many laws on the subject of archery shew how anxious the successive monarchs were to make their subjects skilful in the use of the bow, and as many incidents related by the ancient historians shew how powerful it was in their hands. The armour of the knights was itself scarcely proof against the force of the English arrows. Now, it was a law that butts should be erected in every parish, and the inhabitants were obliged to practise at them on Sundays and holydays, and in Edward IV.'s reign, for in- stance, were liable to the fine of a halfpenny for every time they omitted so to do. The length of the bow seems to have been equal to the height of a man : the arrow measured generally a " cloth-yard." The use of the long-bow was common among the Anglo-Saxons : though it does not appear to have been of general or efficient use in war before the twelfth or even the thirteenth century. Abroad the arbalest or cross-bow was more in fashion, particularly among the Italians. The long-bow how- ever was found to be the more formidable of the two, but it required more skill, and we find that at least in the fifteenth century the cross-bow began to supersede it in England. Or- dinances were made to counteract this tendency, and the cross- bow was sometimes forbidden, except under certain restrictions. In the Buttfield behind the King's Arms we can distinctly trace the position of the butt, and the place where the archers of Berkhamsted stood to shoot. How long this ground con- tinued to be used for archery practice I cannot say ; but in the reign of Elizabeth, when the use of the gun was superseding HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. 101 that of the bow, there arose a warm controversy on their respective merits, and many asserted that the former weapon would never succeed in the general practice of warfare. One writer of that time, after discussing the question, concludes "that there is no doubt but archers with their volleys of arrowes would wound, kill, and hurt above an hundred men and horses for every one so to be done by the shot." Shooting at the butt however seems to have been generally practised as a recreation until a very much later period. Ac- cordingly we find the following entry in the court-book of the manor of Berkhamsted, under the year 1716 : ''Metae, Anglice the Butts, in decasu sunt et reparari debent." At the same time too it is ordered — and the order is interesting as being of so comparatively recent a date — that the parish "tumbril" be repaired — a proof this that the Court was as anxious to preserve the morals and good character of the townspeople as to promote and encourage their useful sports and innocent pastimes. Perhaps, however, some of you do not know what sort of thing this moral instrument was. Let me therefore inform you* In Boswell's Life of Johnson, the doctor says, u We have dif- ferent modes of restraining evil. Stocks for the men ; a ducking- stool for women ; and a pound for beasts." Now a tumbril and ducking-stool were one and the same thing. Sometimes it is called a Cucking or Choking stool, and it would seem indeed to have deserved the name when we read that it was " an engine invented for the punishment of scolds and unquiet women by ducking them in the water, after having placed them in a stool or chair fixed at the end of a long pole, by which they were immerged in some muddy or stinking pond." So much for the history of the parish butts and the parish tumbril. I think I may now safely say that I have exhausted my stock of information concerning the history and antiquities of Berk- hamsted. 102 HISTORY OF BERKHAMSTED. Many alterations have taken place in our town within the memory of the present generation, but with events of modern times my subject has necessarily no connection. I cannot, however, close a lecture on the history of the past, without expressing a . conviction that the signs of improvement which at present we see around us are full of hopeful augury for the future. Our canal, our railway, our gas, and last, though not least, our Mechanics' Institute, are all proofs of advancement in civilization. They are evidences of the liberal spirit which pervades our town and neighbourhood, and they are tokens of essential prosperity. They are improvements which in them- selves call for real congratulation, and the more so because they fill us with hopes of a flourishing future. Earnestly de- siring that these hopes may be realized, and in the confident expectation that they will be, I conclude by the expression of a wish in which I am sure you will all unite — PROSPERITY TO THE TOWN OF BERKHAMSTED. APPENDICES. APPENDICES. APPENDIX I. List of fifty different ways of spelling Berkhamsted, arranged as far as possible in chronological order. Beophhamrtebe. Bepjhamrtybe. Berghamstedt. Beorcham. Berchehamstede. Berchamstede. Berkhamsted. Berchampstede. Berchamestud. Berchammestud. Bercamested. Bercamestede. Berchamestede. Berkamestude. Berchamested. Bekhemestede. Bercam. Bercham. Berkhampstede. Berkkampsted. Bercamstede. Berkamsted. Berkchamsted. Berckhamstede. Barkhemsted. Berkhamstede. Barcanstede. Barkhamsted. Barkehamsted. Berchamsted. Barkhamstede. Barkhamstead. Barkamsted. Barkhampstedde. Barkehampstedde. Berkekampstedde. Berkkampstedde. Berkehamstedde. Berkekamsteed. Berkekamstede. Berkemsted. Barkamsted. Barkhamsteed. Barkhamsted. Bercomsted. Bercamsted. Berkamstead. Berkhempsted. Berkhempstead. Berkhampstead. [A very common way, " Berkhamstead," is not included in the above list. The Railway Company, the Post Office, and all the parish authorities, have now adopted the spelling " Berkhamsted."] 106 APPENDIX. APPENDIX II. Among the Kecords in the custody of the Master of the Rolls, pur- suant to Stat. 1 and 2 Vict. cap. 94, and preserved in the Tower of London, to wit, Inquisition a. q. d., 11 Edward III., No. 41. it is thus contained : — Edwardus Dei gra Rex Angi Dns Hibn f Dux Aquit diicis t fidelib3 suis Pfto de Aylesbury t Thome de la Hay. Sattrn. Quia datum est nob intelligi qd in castro nro de Berkhampsted quod Johes nup Comes Cornub fr nr jam defunctus sub eta forma tenuit t quod p mortem ejusdem Comitis captii est in manu firam ut in domib} muris turellis pontib3 i aliis edificiis q"~mplures defectus ac in boscis ad castrum illud ptinentib} divsa vasta t destruccoes fca existul qui quidem defectus magna repacoe i emendacoe indigent Nos volentes inde plenius 8ciorari assignavim vos ad supvidend castrum pdem i defectus in eodem ac destruccoes % vasta in boscis pdcis existencia 1 ad inquirend p sacrm pbora % leg holm de Com Hertf p quos rei vitas melius sciri potit p quora defectu seu incuriam defectus hujusmodi (The following Translation has been kindly made by the Rev. J. R. Crawford.) Edward, by the grace of God King of England, Lord of Ireland, and Duke of Aquitaine, to his beloved and faithful Philip of Aylesbury and Thomas de la Hay greeting. Whereas it hath been given us to under- stand that in our Castle of Berkhampsted which John late Earl of Cornwall our brother now deceased held under a certain form, and which by the death of the same earl has been taken into our possession, that in the houses, walls, turrets, bridges, and other buildings are many defects, and in the woods belonging to that castle divers wastes and destructions have been made, which defects require great repair and emendation : We, willing to be thereof more fully informed, have assigned you to survey the aforesaid castle and the defects in the same, and the destructions and wastes existing in the aforesaid woods, and to inquire by oath of honest and lawful men of the county of Hertford, by whom the truth of the matter may be better known, through whose APPENDIX. 107 evenerint % destruccoes t vasta Jdca fca extiterunt t que is cujus- modi defectus destruccoes is vasta quib} temporib3 qualit is quo modo is in quo statu domus muri turelli pontes i alia edificia ac bosci castri pdci jam existunt. Et ideo vob mandam qd dcm castrum ac defectus in eodem et destruccoes ac vasta in boscis pdcis supvideatis is inquisicoem pdcam in forma pdca fac earnc^ distincte i apte fcam nob sub sigillis vris is sigillis eora p quos fca fuit sine ditone mittatis is hoc bre is nos de quanto defectus illi cofnode repari is emendari poPunt Stificantes indilate Man- davim enim vie nro Com pdci qd ad ctos diem i locu quos ei scire fac venire fac coram vob tot is tales pbos is leg hoies de batlia sua p quos rei vitas in pmissis melius sciri potit i inquiri. In cujus rei testimoniu has Iras nras fieri fecim patentes. T' me ipo apud Novii Castrum sup Tynam xx. die Octobr anno r. n. decimo. p ipm R. The foregoing is a true copy of the original record in the custody of the Master of the Kolls, preserved in the Tower of London, and stamped with the seal of the Public Eecord Office, pursuant to Stat. 1 & 2 Vict. c. 94, § 12, 13. T. DUFFUS HAKDY, Assistant Keeper of Kecords, Record Office, Tower. fault or carelessness such defects may have happened, and the destruc* tions and wastes aforesaid have been done, and what and of what kind be the defects, destructions, and wastes, and at what times, and howj and in what manner they happened, and in what state the houses, walls, towers, bridges, and other buildings, and the woods of the said castle now are. And so we command you to survey the said castle and defects in the same, and the destructions and wastes in the woods aforesaid, and make the inquisition aforesaid in the form aforesaid, and send the same to us distinctly and openly made under your seals and the seals of those by whom it shall be made without delay, together with this writ, and certifying us without delay at what cost those defects can be conveniently repaired and mended ; for we have com- manded our sheriff of the said county that at the certain day and place which you may make known unto him he shall cause to come before I 2 108 APPENDIX. Inq's tea apucl Berkhampsted die venis in f to Sci Valentini anno regni Reg Edwardi tcij a Conquestu xj mo . coram Pho de Ayllesbury i Thorn del Haye assignat p fere dni Reg ad inquirend de artlis in dco brevi content cui ista inquiS 9suit r p s a ctm Henric Norman Phi atte Slo Willi fit Rici de Doun- hampsted Willi fit Willi de Dounhampsted Johnis le Hunts Ro| Tydy Johnis Cook' de Dodeswelle Stephi Chaimpouneys Johnis Cokerugge Johnis atte Wyncli Elye le Peek i Rogi atte Hulle xij. juratory et Johnis Glorye Carpentar i Johnis de Rysseburgh cementarij jurat qui dicut p sac tin suii qd q"~nt ad defect Cast 1 de Berkhampsted porta extior dci Cast 1 cu toto barbicano ibidm dirruit in toto et optet repari de novo t indiget p repacone ejusdin tarn in muris lapideiis q"~m in merio f. capud porte pdce ad min 9 xL ii. Itm turelt porte inferior indiget de una boterato largit de fundamento usq 7 ad sumum vsus fossatu i de uno boterato infra dcam portam p eodfn turelt et eciam p dco you so many and such good and lawful men of his jurisdiction, by whom the truth of the matter in the premises may be better known and inquired. In witness whereof we have made these our letters patent. Witness myself at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, on the twentieth day of October, in the tenth year of our reign. An Inquisition made at Berkhampsted on Friday on the feast of St. Valentine, in the eleventh year of the reign of King Edward the Third since the Conquest, before Philip of Aylesbury and Thomas de la Haye, assigned by writ of our Lord the King to inquire concerning the articles contained in the said writ to which this inquisition is attached, by oath of Henry Norman, Philip at Slo, William son of Richard of Dounhampsted, William son of William of Dounhampsted, John le Hunte, Roger Tydy, John Cook of Dodeswelle, Stephen Chaimpouneys, John Cokerugge, John at Wynch, Elias le Peek, and Roger at Hulle, twelve jurors, and of John Glorye, carpenter, and John of Rysseburgh, mason, sworn, who say on their oath that, as regards the defects of the castle of Berkhampsted, the outer gate of the said castle, with the whole of the barbican there, is entirely in ruins, and must be repaired afresh, and requires for the reparation of the same, both in the stone walls, and in the timber-work, and head of APPENDIX. 109 tureft punctand p totu k herneft ej 5 dm de novo crescando de novo g"~du de novo faciend de tra usq> in camam sriorem et estimat t taxant defect dci t r ris tam in ope lapideo q^m in carpent'a ad xlv. fi. Itm qd mur 9 dci Cast 1 a dca porta uscfe ad magnam t r rim vs oriente cu duob3 turret! ibidm ita debilitant r tam in fundamto q"~m in c e stacone g""dih} i aluris p qd estimant t taxant p repacoe eoradfh mur t tfreft ad xl. ti. Itm qd cam e infra dcos t r relt sunt ita debit t ruinose qd repaco eordm tam in merio carpent'a q^m in cooptura plubi estimant ad x ti. Itm qd magna fris fissa est in duob3 locis vidtt ex pte boriat a fundameto usq> ad sumum ex pte orientali a medio usq^ ad sumu. Ita qd n 1 repetur in brevi totu corruet in tra Et qd coept r a p . . . ejusdrn est valde debit t estimant ^ taxant defect 9 dci fris tam in ope lapideo i carpent'a q'^m coopt r a plubi ccxv ti. Itfn defec? muri t . . t a dca magna t r ri uscjj ad porta infr a inferiorem balliam Cast 1 vs campii indiget repacoe V3 ope lapideo merio t carpent'a ad min 9 xl. ti. It porta inf 1 dcam balliam q the gate aforesaid, 401. at the least. Item, the tower of the lower gate is in want of one large buttress from the bottom to the top towards the ditch, and of one buttress below the said gate for the same tower, and also for the said tower to be pointed throughout, and the battle- ments of the same to be crested anew, and the staircase to be made new from the ground to the upper chamber ; and they estimate and tax the defects of the said tower, as well in stonework as in carpentry, at 45/. Item, that the wall of the said castle from the said gate, as far as the great tower towards the east, with the two turrets therein, are so weakened, as well in the foundation as in the roof, staircases, and passages, that they estimate and tax the repairs of the same walls and turrets at 40Z. Item, that the chambers below the said turrets are so weak and ruinous, that the reparation of the same, as well in timber- work, carpentry, as in the lead roof, they estimate at 1 01. Item, that the great tower is split in two places, viz., on the north side from the bottom to the top, and on the east from the middle to the top, so that unless it be repaired it will soon fall to the ground, and the lead roof of the same is very weak ; and they estimate and tax the defects of the s:iid tower, as well in stonework and carpentry as in lead roofing, at 215/. Item, the defects of the wall and . . , from the said great tower 110 APPENDIX. dr Dernegate eu porta ibid: v*satuli ult a fossatu eu ponte qui dueit vs pcii ult a scdm fossatu ibidm et eu tcio ponte qui dueit ad alluras et qui diruunt 1 * quor^ defect tarn in ope lapideo q n merio * carpent et aliis necc"is fac estimanf ad lx ti. Itm qd dom 9 infi' a pcinctu dee T r ris indigent emendacone t in muris lapideiis qui sut ruinosi et emendaco eorxd estiraat 1 ad xxx. ti. Itm qd mur 2 lapideus a dca porta vocat Dernegate uscjj ad magna porta Cast 1 vs occidente et duor& t r rett et muri ibid: siit min 9 debit i ruinosi quo& emendaco estimat r ad xl. ti. Et qd defect aliaa domofc t cama^ V3 magne cam e depicte it alia* pva£ cam a* f capelt adjunctaa et ecia magne capeft ut in ope lapideo merio carpent'a t coop r a plub % tegul cu appenticis gutteris plub t caminis estimant r ad cexx. ti. Itm pdei xij. jurati dicut quo ad divs vasta % dist u ccones fctas in bosc t aliis loc ad cast m pdem ptinentib3 qd tepe Joftnis Com as far as the gate below the lower ward of the castle towards the low land, i.e. the swamp, needs repairing, viz., in stone-work, timber-work, and carpentry, at least 40Z. Item, the gate below the said bailey which is called the Dernegate, with the gate in the same, likewise the draw- bridges beyond the ditch, with the bridge which leads towards the park beyond the second ditch in the same part, with the third bridge which leads to the alures (galleries), and which are in ruins, the defects whereof, both in stone-work and in timber-work and carpentry and other needful things, are estimated at 601. Item, that the houses below the precinct of the said tower require repair, and in the stone walls, which are ruinous, and the mending of the same is estimated at 30Z. Item, that the stone wall from the said gate called the Derne- gate, as far as the great gate of the castle towards the west, and of the two towers, and the walls in the same, are less weak and ruinous, the mending whereof is estimated at 40/. And that the defects of the other houses and chambers, viz., of the great painted chamber, and other small chambers and chapels adjoining, and also of the great chapel, both in stone-work, timber-work, carpentry, and lead roof and tiles, with the pent-houses, lead gutters, and chimneys, are estimated at 2201. Item, the said twelve jurors say, as regards the divers wastes and destructions made in the woods and other places appertaining to the APPENDIX. Ill Cornuft venditu fuit de bosco pdco ■? in aliis loeis in vasto ibidm k in haiis p pcept dci Com ad valenc ciiij xX xix li. p? expii suas ibidfh p suos advent et in phendinacoib} suis ibidm Itm qd post morte dci Com vendi! fuit de bosco pdco p Wiftm le T r nour p'us assignat tempe dci Com ad boscii vendend ad valenc xxxv. ii. Itm p Robtfn le pear t Johem garcoem ejusdm venditu fuit in bosco ibidm an morte dci Coin ad valenc ut in arborib} et frondib5 x. ti. Itm p eosdm p 9 morte dci Com ut in arborib5 t frondib5 vidlt Rico de Northcote Wifto Reygner t Rofcto le Sliovelere scientib3 ipos no huisse potestate boscu vendend ad valenc xx. li. Itm Johnes Preen succidit i asptavit de bosco pdco p 9 morte dci Com iij. fagos pc iij. s. Itm Henr atte Fourghous succidit t asptavit de bosco pdco p 5 morte dci Com xij fagos pc xijg. Itm qd Ric de Norhcote succidit "t asptavit de bosco pco p 5 morte dci Com xxij. fagos pc xxij. s. Itm Witts Reygner post morte dci Com succidit ? asptavit de bosco pdco xij. fag pc xij. §. Et qd Rics Dyrold succidit ** asptavit p morte dci Com de bosco pdco viij. fag pc xiij. s. Et qd said castle, that in the time of John Earl of Cornwall there was sold from the said wood, and in other places in the waste there, and in the hayes (or hedged copses), by order of the said earl, to the value of 199£. besides his consumption there at his comings, and in his resi- dences there. Item, that after the death of the said earl there was sold out of the said wood by William the Turner, before appointed in the time of the said earl to sell timber, to the value of 351. Item, through Robert the park-keeper, and John his boy, was sold in wood, before the death of the said earl, to the value of 101. in trees and branches. Item, by the same after the death of the said earl, in trees and branches, viz. : to Richard of Northcote, William Reygner, and Robert the Shoveler, knowing that they had not power to sell wood, to the value of 201. Item, John Preen cut down and took away from the said wood, after the death of the said earl, 3 beech trees worth 3s. Item, Henry at Forghaus cut down and took away from the said wood, after the death of the said earl, 12 beeches worth 12s. Item, that Richard of Northcote cut down and took away from the said wood, after the death of the said earl, 22 beeches worth 22s. Item, William Reygner, after the death of the said earl, cut down and took away 112 APPENDIX. Rics Toly succiclit t asptavit p 9 morte dci Com de bosco pdco vj. fagos pc vj. s. Et qd Robts le Shoveler succidit t asptavit de bosco pdco post morte dci Com xl. fagos pc xl. s. Et qd Rics le Gariere succidit i asptavit de dco bosco p 9 morte dci Com vj. fag pc vj. S. Et qd Radulphs de Alstowe suceid i asptavit de bosco pdco p 9 morte dci Com j. fag pc xij.d. Et qd Witts Reygner Rics de Grafton t Robts le Shoveler succidert et asptavert de bosco pdco p 9 morte dci Com xij. fag pc xiij.s. iiij. d. Itm dicut qd pdci Robtus le Parker 1 Jon garc ej^dm falso signavert pdcas arbores in pdco bosco venditas p qdd""m signm p se ymaginatu signii dci Com ad boscu vendend depu- tatu cont""factu. In cuj 9 rei testimoniu pdci juratof huic Inq's Bi'gifi sua apposuert Dat apud Berkh a mpsted die t anno s a dcis. The foregoing is a true copy of the original record in the custody of the Master of the Rolls, preserved in the Tower of London, and stamped with the seal of the Public Record Office, pur- suant to Stat. 1 & 2 Vict. c. 94, § 12, 13. T. DUFFUS HARDY, Assistant Keeper of Records. Record Office, Tower, 4 April, 1855. from the said wood 12 beeches worth 12s.; and that Richard Dyrold cut down and took away, after the death of the said earl, from the said wood 8 beeches worth 8s. ; and that Richard Toly cut down and took away, after the death of the said earl, from the said wood 6 beeches, worth 6s. ; and that Robert the Shoveler cut down and took away from the said wood, after the death of the said earl, 40 heeches, worth 40s. ; and that Richard the Gariere cut down and took away from the said wood, after the death of the said earl, 6 beeches, worth 6s.', and that Ralph of Alstowe cut and carried from said wood, after the death of said earl, 1 beech, worth 12c?.; and that William Reygner, Richard of Grafton, and Robert the Shoveler, cut down and took away from the said wood, after the death of the said earl, 12 beeches, worth 13s. 4c?. Item, they say that the aforesaid Robert the Parker and John his boy falsely marked the said trees sold in the said wood with a counterfeit mark made by them to resemble the mark of the said earl, used expressly for the sale of timber. In testimony whereof the aforesaid jurors have to this inquisition set their seals, Given at Berkhampsted in the day and year said above, APPENDIX. 113 APPENDIX III. Chronological Table of Ecclesiastical Architecture. (Vide Oxford Glossary, vol. ii. page 104.) Kings. William I. William II. Henry I. Stephen Henry II. Ilichard I. John Henry III. Edward I. Edward II. Edward IH. Style. Remarks. Date. 1066 \ 1087 Norman (or Eng- I 124 1100 > lish Roman- / really known to be more ver y early. 1135 esqne). than a few years older FonTc.Tiso.] 1154 to 1189 J { than the Conquest. ( Prevailed little more than [Doorway years; no remains T u r ^ e e p £- 1189 1199 1216 to 1272 Early English (or 1st Pointed). 1272 j Decorated Eng- 1307 lish (or 2nd 1327 to 1377 ) Pointed). Prevailed about 100 years. [Cross The reign of Richard I. JJgg* was the chief period of Chapels the transition from the n. Transept.] Norman to the English style. Early- Prevailed about 100 years. [Windows of The transition from the N. Transept Chapels Early-English to the De- c. 1377.] corated style took place chiefly during the reign of Edward I. Richard II. Henry IV. Henry V. Henry VI. Edward IV. Edward V. Richard III. Henry VII. Henry VIII. 1377 v 1399 \ 1413 1422 ( Perpendicular 1461 * English (or 3rd 1483 Pointed). 1483 1485 1509 to 1546/ ^ Prevailed about 169 years. [Clerestory In the latter part of the ?; 1450 - r Upper part long reign of Edward III. of Tower the transition from the c ' Decorated to the Perpen- dicular style began, and was almost completed by the time of the accession of Richard II. Few, if any, old buildings erected in this style later than Henry VIII., though it was used in addition and re-building, but often much debased, as late as 1630 or 1640. 114 APPENDIX. APPENDIX IV. Clutterbuck, p. 299. The Kectory of Berkhamsted St. Peter. [Cussans, p. 75.] This Kectory was formerly in the diocese of Lincoln, and in the archdeaconry of Huntingdon. It is now in the diocese of Rochester,* the archdeaconry of St. Alban's, and the deanery to which it gives name. It was anciently appropriated to the Abbot and Convent of Gresteinf in Normandy, who seem to have regularly presented to it until the latter end of the fourteenth century, from which time it has been vested in the Crown. In the ecclesiastical taxation made by order of Pope Nicholas IV., a.d. 1291, it was rated at 101. per annum. In the survey made upon the dissolution of monasteries, an. 26 Hen. VIII., it was valued at 20/. per annum. The Commissioners appointed by Parliament in 1650 to inquire into the state of ecclesiastical benefices, found that this rectory was at that time worth 60Z. per annum ; that the cure was supplied by David Bramble, clerk,} by order of the Committee for Plundered Ministers ; that it was sequestered from John Nappier, clerk ; that the late king was patron, and that there were no donatives or chapels belonging to it. Rectors. Bishops by whom instituted. Time of Institution. Patrons. Robert de Tuardo Wells A.o. 1222 \ Hugh de London, clerk H 1223 John de Merse, capell' Grosthead 1238 "Walter de Braclesham, sub- Gravesend May 5, 1270 deacon Roger de Castro, sub-deacon Richard Abel, acolite Thomas Bamville Walter de Bamville John Conde Sutton Dalderby Burghersh Feb. 4, 1294 May 4, 1306 Jan. 11, 1331 Dec. 5, 1333 Abbot and Convent of * Grestein in Normandy. Richard de Ochecott, presbyt jr „ June 3, 1334 William William Wenlock, acolite Gynwell June 5, 1349 Philip de Leghe » Mar. 3, 1352 Ralph de Iddebury 5) Sept. 3,1356 * [Now St. Alban's.] f [The site of this abbey may still be seen. A house is built on the spot by a merchant of Honfleur, near which it is situated. The last monk died in 1814. Arietta, William the Conqueror's mother, was buried there.] J [In 1645, one John Phippon was commended to the Committee for exami- nation, but does not appear to have been appointed.] APPENDIX. 115 Rectors. Bishops by whom Time of Patrons. instituted. Institution. Nicholas le Rede Gynwell Nov. 4, 1367 The King. John Oshorn ) Abbot and Nicholas Turney Buckingham Apr. 17, 1368 | Convent of Thomas Somenor >> May 1, 1369 ( Grestein in John Waltham » ) Normandy. Peter de Burton » Apr. 23, 1381 \ John Long, clerk » May 13, 1382 Robert de Bolton, phr. » Aug. 22, 1384 John Milton » Mar. 24, 1384 John Creeton » June 30, 1386 Thomas Brydde Robert Hodersale Repingdon Feb. 22,1405 ► The King. William Watford Gray June 3, 1432 John Staunton >» Oct. 13,1432 Michael James » May 14. 1435 John Goddeslond Richard Plomer, pbr. Lumley Nov. 18, 1462 John More, pbr. Rotherham July 17, 1478 J Henry Matthew Russell Mar. 29, 1484 j Nov. 19, 1490 ! Cicely, Duch- Thomas Lee, clerk » ess of York. John Harden, pbr. Smith Sept. 11, 1501 \ William Hone 5> July 15, 1504 Richard Lessy John Dent, cap. Longland Apr. 27, 1522 Thomas Abell, M.A. ' >> Sept. 11, 1522 Richard Baker, B.D. ») June 28, 1530 > The King. John Chamberlain White 1554 William Parker Bullingham 1560 [John Lane >> 1568 Thomas Wethered Cooper 1573 Nicholas Clayton » 1578 1584]' William Painter j> Thomas Newman Chaderton 1598 The Queen. John Napier* Williams 1639 ■ I (David Bramley or Bramble 1 intruder) Restored June 14, 1670 The King. John Napier, clerk, M.A. Fuller I 1 * He was ejected by the Parliament from this benefice, but afterwards had a small donative in Bucks, and lived to be restored [14 June, 1670]. 116 APPENDIX. Rectors. Bishops by whom Time of Patrons. instituted. Institution. Robert Brabant,* clerk, M.A. Barlow Mar. 6, 1681 The King. John Cowper, M.A. Gibson May 11, 1722 \ 1756 John Jeffreys, clerk Thomas Charles du Gniffardiere, clerk Pretyman who Dec. 26, 1798 M.A. changed his The Prince of name to Tom- Wales as line 1 Duke of John Crofts, clerk, M.A. >> Jan. 12, 1810 Cornwall. James Hutchinson, M.A. George Murray, Bishop of Feb. 21, 1851 Rochester ) [John Wolstenholme Cobb, Thomas Legh, July 26, 1871 f Earl Brown- ( low.] M.A. Bishop of Rochester now St. Alban's 1 APPENDIX V. Names of the Masters and Ushers of the Grammar School, as far as can be ascertained from documents in the possession of the school. The first and only Chaplain was the Rev. John East. Ushers. Rev. John Audley, B.A. Roger Norwood. Roger Norwood. Leonard Stepney. 1561. Henry Adkens. Masters. 1. Rev. Richard Reeve, B.D., All Souls Coll., Oxford. 2. Rev. William Barker. 3. Rev. William Saltmarsh. 4. Rev. Thomas Hunt, 1599- 5. Rev. Henry Hunt, 1635. 6. Rev. William Pitkin, 1636, buried at St. Dunstan's, Fleet Street. * In one of the Registers is this entry: * Dr. Brabant, Rector of Berkhamsted and St. Andrew Undershaft in London, and Prebendary of Worcester, Lincoln, and St. Paul's, and Chaplin under 8 crownd heads, and Doctor of Divinity, 1719." « John Boardman, Curate," APPENDIX. 117 Masters. 7. Rev. Timothy Taylor, died of the plague in 1648. 8. Rev. Archibald Ogle, 1648. 9. Rev. Thomas Hawes, M.A., buried in the School chancel. 10. Rev. Burgenhead, 1661. 11. Rev. Thomas Fossau. 12. Rev. Edmond Newboult, after- wards Rector of Chedding- ton, Bucks. 13. Rev. Thomas Wren, after- wards Rector of Kelshall, Herts. 14. Rev. John Theed, M.A., Oriel Coll., Oxford. 15. Rev. Evan Price, 1734 16. Rev. Thomas Bland, M.A., 1753. 17. Rev. John Dupre, D.D. 18. Rev. Thomas Dupre, M.A., Exeter Coll., Oxford, after- wards Rector of Willoughby, Lincolnshire. 19. Rev. Edward John Wilcocks, afterwards Treffry, M.A., Lincoln Coll., Oxford, 1841. Ushers. Thomas D agnail. John Seare. Woodkin, buried 1681. John Bennett, B.A. William Lake. Rev. Evan Price. Rev. Rice Price. Rev. Thomas Allett, 1742. Rev. James Price. Rev. Michael Dupre. 20. Rev. John Robert Crawford, M.A., Lincoln Coll., Oxford, 1850. [21. Rev. Edward Bartrum, M.A., Pembroke Coll., Oxford, 1864.] Thomas Scott. Rev. John William Bramah, B.A., Merton Coll., Oxford, 1846. Frederick Burn Harvey, 1847. Rev. Frederick Burn Harvey, S.C.L., Magd. Hall, Oxford [now Rector of Cheddingtonj. 118 APPENDIX. APPENDIX VI. List of Books Consulted. Norden, John, Speculum Britannia? : the first parte : an Historicall and Chorographicall Description of Middlesex and Hartfordshire. First edition, 1598. Chauncy, Sir Henry, Kt. The Historical Antiquities of Hertford- shire. London, 1700. Salmon, Nathaniel, LL.B. The History of Hertfordshire. London, 1728. Clutterbuck, Robert, F.S.A. The History and Antiquities of the County of Hertford. London, 1815. Camden's Britannia. London, 1607. Leland's Itinerary. Ed. Hearne. 1710. Stukeley, William. Itinerarium Curiosum. London, 1776. Brayley, E. W. The Beauties of England and Wales. London, 1823. Todd, Archdeacon. History of the College of Ashridge. London, 1823. Scriptores Anglici post Bedam. Frankfort, 1601. Paris, Matthew. Ed. London, 1640. Froissart's Chronicles. Ed. Johnes. Holinshed's Chronicle. London, 1587. Stow's Annals. London, 1615. Dugdale's Monasticon. 1817. Dugdale's Baronage of England. London, 1675. Wood's Athenre Oxonienses. London, 1721. Spelman's Concilia. London, 1639-64. Leges Anglo-Saxonicai. London, 1721. Weever's Funerall Monuments. 1631. Newcourt's Repertorium. 1708. Tanner's Notitia Monastica. 1754. Gough's Sepulchral Remains. 1796. Itymer's Fcedera. Ed. Clarke. London, 1816. Archaeoloeria. APPENDIX. 119 Gentleman's Magazine. Skclton, John. Workes now collected. London, 1568. Cary, Robert, Baron of Lepington, Memoirs of the Life of. London, 1759. Harwood, Thomas. Alumni Etonenses. Birmingham, 1797. Tower Records. The Parish Records. Report of the Charity Commissioners. [Monumental Brasses. By H. Haines, M.A. Parker, 1861. Painted Windows. By P. B. Harvey, M.A. Longmans, 1869. Life of Edward III. By W. Longman. 1869. In and out of London. By W. J. Loftie, B.A. History of Hertfordshire. By J. E. Cussans. Austin. Hertford. A most valuable Work, now complete.] &c. &c. &c. 120 The following Appendices are inserted for the first time in this Second Edition. APPENDIX VII. The Castle. 1. The following description of the Castle, by G. T. Clark, Esq., is taken from an account of a visit of the Archaeo- logical Institute to Berkharasted, printed in the Archaeo- logical Journal, No. 120, 1873 :— Berkhamsted stands within a gorge of the chalk, less sharply defined than that of Guildford, but not less important in a military point of view, and traversed, like it, by a stream tributary to the Thames. The stream here is the Bullbourne, a tributary of the Coin, which falls into the Thames at Colnbrook, about 26 miles below the castle. Ham- stead, indicating a dwelling-place, is not an unfrequent English name. In this case it is distinguished by the prefix of " Berk " or " Burg," referring to the burgh or fortress which it contains. The position is well chosen. The castle stands at the point at which a small lateral combe, descending from the north and east, opens upon the main valley, and contributes to it a small brook, the waters of which have reduced the low ground to what must have been a deep marsh, in the midst of which, about a low tump of gravel, the defences are arranged. North and south the ground rises rapidly to considerable elevations ; on the south or south-east runs the main stream, about 400 yards from, and a few feet below, the castle. The river, the Grand Junction Canal, and the Birmingham railway, lie close together in the bottom, the latter encroaching somewhat upon the outer ditch of the fortress. The high road, the Roman Akeman Street, traverses the little town of Berk- hamsted about a furlong away upon the slope of the opposite hill. Thus the road, always an important highway, was effectually watched, and the castle covered from an attack on that side. The castle is com- APPENDIX. 121 posed of an inner ward, a mound, an inner ditch, a middle bank, a second ditch, and an outer bank and works. The Inner Ward is an oval area, about 500 feet north and south by 300 east and west. It is level, dry, and surrounded by the remains of a wall, which stands on the line of what perhaps may be regarded as the trace of a light bank. This ward is no doubt a natural tump, levelled and scarped all round. It is rather higher than the outer defences. Towards the north-east quarter the outline of this ward is indented to make room for the mound. The Mound is a truncated cone, about 60 feet high, and 40 feet diameter on the top. The sides are very steep. It is wholly artificial. On its outer two-thirds it rises out of the ditch of the place, which includes it and the inner ward. The ditch, however, formerly also encircled the whole mound ; a loop, now partially filled up, as at Tonbridge, dividing it from the ward. What remains of the ditch is deep and wet. The inner ditch, which thus surrounds the inner ward and the mound, and by a loop divides the two, is somewhat triangular in plan, a figure produced by the very considerable widening of it at the south-east and south-west points, as well as, in some degree, of the intervening base. This ditch is for the most part full of water, the overflow of which escapes by a modern culvert in the south-eastern quarter. It is deep, and at its narrowest pai-t 50 or 60 feet broad, and must have proved a very formidable defence. Outside of, and forming the counterscarp of this ditch, and dividing it from the. second ditch, is a steep narrow bank, of irregular outline and variable breadth. This is the middle bank. It is, gene- rally, about 8 feet broad at the top, but it makes two angles towards the south-west and south-east, and at these it expands into two mounds or cavaliers, the one about 20 feet diameter at the top and the other about 30 feet, and each about 20 feet higher than the ordinary bank. These mounds are so placed as to flank the base of the triangle, that is, the front facing the open valley and the Koman road. This bank is succeeded by the outer ditch, which also seems to have surrounded the whole work, though now filled up upon the south point, where it is encroached upon by the railway and a diverted accommodation road. The lateral brook flowed into this ditch, and continues to do so along its western part, running off at the south-west angle. This also is a formidable defence. There is besides a partial line of defence beyond this second ditch, forming the outer bank. This is a broken and com- plex line of earthworks, covering the two sides of the triangle, but K 122 APPENDIX. ceasing at the base, where probably the low ground about the Bull- bourne afforded a sufficient defence. It is broken at the north end or apex of the figure by a deep cross cut, through which the stream from the combe enters the outer ditch. To the east of this gap the bank is strengthened by three bold rounded bastions of earth, about 150 feet apart, and measuring about 30 feet at the gorge by 40 feet projection. West of the gap are five of these bastions, from 80 to 120 feet apart, and of unequal size ; and beyond them, towards the south-west angle, is a kind of half-moon work or ravelin in advance of the outer ditch, and with a ditch of its own, and connected with it a sort of rectangular tank or pool, through which a part of the water of the ditches flows into the main stream. These bastions have no parapets, and are con- nected with no masonry, but they are high and with steep slopes, and along their front is a ditch, which may have been wet, as in places it still is. The full exterior dimension of the whole work is in length about 330 yards, and in breadth about 220 yards. Of masonry there remains but little. The inner ward was contained within a wall about 7 feet thick, and from 20 to 25 feet high, of which a good deal still remains. It stood about 7 feet within the edge of the slope of the ward, leaving a path between its base and the crest of the ditch. There are traces of the battlements here and there. There is a fragment of a mural tower on the west face, much mutilated, but apparently rectangular. In the east face are two openings, of which one may have been a pos- tern. In the north-east quarter there remains a fragment of a cross wall, probably a part of the domestic buildings. The gap for the main gateway is at the south end, near the middle of that front. There are no traces of gate-house or gate towers, nor do there appear to have been any. There were also some buildings on the west side, and probably a bye-gate at the north-west corner, leading to the outer defences in that direction. The mound has been crowned by a circular or multangular shell keep, of which only traces of the foundations remain. Much remains of a strong curtain or spur wall, 8 feet thick, which projected from the wall of the inner ward and ascended the mound, connecting the keep with the inner enceinte. Possibly there was a second wall a few yards to the east, but it is pretty clear that the northern three-quarters of the keep stood outside the inner area, and formed a part of its defences. It is remarkable that here, as at Tickhill and Tamworth, the battlements of the connecting wall do not APPENDIX. 123 seem to have risen much higher than the top of the mound or base of the keep, as though the object was to detach the keep, and to prevent it being assailed advantageously by those who, having taken the inner ward, might proceed along the curtain towards the citadel. Upon the inner bank, and therefore on the counterscarp of the inner ditch, near the middle of the southern face, are two parallel walls, 12 feet apart, which represent the exterior main entrance. There are no traces of towers, and probably these walls stood nearly alone, as at Conings- borough. There is no other trace of masonry, and the banks are far too slight to have supported a regular curtain wall, and had such been built it would have been liable to be mined and brought down with but lfttle labour. Probably there was a third or outer gateway on the outer edge of the ditch, now obliterated by the railway. An early survey mentions the "derngate" leading to the park, no doubt a pos- tern at the north-west corner of the inner ward; and three draw- bridges, of which the outer had "allures" and galleries. Probably these were all of timber, for the slender earthworks show no trace of masonry. There were also a painted chamber or hall, a great chapel, and two others. Leland speaks of "divers towers in the middle ward," but he does not seem to have entered it. By the middle ward he means the ward in the midst. That is the "inner ward." Berkhamsted is a very peculiar fortification. The mound was clearly the original keep, having, as was usual, its own proper defences. The inner ward, though its earth bank is now slight, is of course also original, and intended to be defended by palisades and the ditch. There probably the original works stopped, and within them may have been held the Council of a.d. 697. The outer works are apparently much later. The outermost bank may, from its bas- tions, be as late as the reign of Charles I., though works not altogether unlike these seem to be sometimes thrown up in the fourteenth cen- tury. The middle bank is too slight, and too sharp in its profile, too well preserved, to be of very high antiquity. It is evidently later than the Conquest, and probably the work of the Earl of Moreton, or some early Norman lord. It is curious that though there are concentric lines of defence there is no middle ward. The lines of defence include only ditches, and nothing of the space which was usually left between the walls of concentred castles to allow the defenders to be drawn up. Here there is barely room for a single line* of troops to be extended in the rear of the stockade. The rectangular pool on the K 2 124 APPENDIX. south-west front may be a modern fish-stew, excavated by some of the grantees of the place. The masonry that remains is all of chalk, flint rubble, bathed or grouted in a pure white mortar, and was probably faced with picked and coursed flints, no doubt with quoins and dress- ings of ashlar. The work may be Norman, or it may be later, but probably not much. The absence of towers, with one exception, and of ashlar, is remarkable. No doubt what there was was removed when Berkhamsted Place was built. 2. For the transcription of the following interesting " Orders and Rules of the Princesse Cecill," and for much other valuable assistance, I am indebted to the kindness of Mr. J. F. Rolph :— Orders and Rules of the Princess Cecill. A compendous recytation compiled of the Order, Kules, and Con- structione of the House of the Kighte Excellent Princesse Cecill, late Mother unto the Right Noble Prince, Kinge Edward the Four the. Me semeth yt is requisyte to understand the order of her owne per- son, concerninge God and the worlde. She useth to arise at seven of the clocke, and hath readye her chapleyne to saye with her mattins of the daye, and mattins of our lady ; and when she is fully readye she hath a lowe masse in her chamber, and after masse she takethe somethinge to recreate nature ; and soe goeth to the chappell hearinge the devine service, and two lowe masses ; from thence to dynner ; duringe the tyme whereof she hath a lecture of holy matter, either Hilton of contemplative and active life, Bonaventure de infancia, Salvatoris legenda aurea, St. Maude, St. Katherin of Sonys, or the Revelacions of St. Bridgett. After dinner she giveth audyence to all such as hath any matter to shewe unto her by the space of one hower ; and then sleepeth one quarter of an hower, and after she hath slepte she contynueth in prayer unto the first peale of evensonge : then she drinketh wyne or ale at her pleasure. Forthwith her chapleyne is ready to saye with her both evensonges ; and after the last peale she goeth to the chap- pell, and heareth evensonge by note ; from thence to supper, and in the tyme of supper she recyteth the lecture that was had at dynner to those that be in her presence. APPENDIX. 125 After supper she disposeth herself to be famyliare with her gentle- women, to the secac'on of honest myrthe ; and one howre before her goeing to bed, she taketh a cuppe of wyne, and after that goeth to her pryvie closette, and taketh her leave of God for all nighte, makinge ende of her prayers for that daye : and by eighte of the clocke is in bedde. I truste to our lordes mercy that this noble Princesse thus devideth the howers to his highe pleasure. The Eules of the House. Upon eatynge dayes at dynner by eleven of the clocke, a first dynner in the tyme of highe masse, for carvers, cupbearers, sewers, and offycers. Upon fastinge dayes by xii of the clocke, and a later dynner for carvers and for wayters. At supper upon eatynge dayes for carvers and offycers, at foure of the clocke ; my lady and the housholde at five of the clocke, at supper. When my lady is served of the seconde course, at dynner, at supper, the chamber is rewarded and the hall with breade and ale, after the discretyon of the usher. Rewardes from the kytchin is there none, savinge to ladyes and gentlewomen; to the heade offycers if they be present ; to the Deane of the Chappelle, to the Almoner, to the gentlemen ushers, to the carvers, cupbearers, and sewers, to the Cofferer, to the Clerke of the Kytchin, and to the Marshall. There is none that dyneth in their offyces, savinge onely the cookes, the scullery, the sawcerye, the porters, the baker if they be occupyed with bakeinge. Uppon Sondaye, tuesdaye, and thursdaye, the housholde at dynner is served with boyled beefe and mutton, and one roste ; at supper leyched beefe and mutton roste. Uppon mondaye and wensdaye at dynner, one boyled beefe and mutton ; at supper, ut supra. Upon fastinge dayes, salte fyshe, and two dishes of fresh fishe ; if there come a principall feaste, it is served like unto the feaste honor- ably e. If mondaye or wensdaye be hollidaye, then is the houshold served with one roste, as in other dayes, 126 APPENDIX. Upon satterdaye at dynner, saltfyshe, one freshfishe, and butter ; at supper saltfishe and egges. Wyne daylie to the heade offycers when they be presente, to the ladyes and gentlewomen, to the Deane of the Chappell, to the Almoner, to the gentlemen-ushers, to the Cofferer, to the Clerke of the Kytchin, and to the Marshall. Upon frydaye is made paymente for all manner of freshe cates ; at every moneth ende is made paymente for all manner other thinges ; on every quarter ende the chappell is payde of their wages. At every halfe yeare the wages is payde to the housholde ; and livery clothe once a yeare. Payment of fees out of the houshoulde is made once a yeare. Proclamacion is made foure times a yeare about Berkhamsted in market townes, to understande whether the purveyors, cators, and other, make true paymente of my ladyes money or not ; and also to understande by the same whether my ladyes servantes make true pay- ment of their owne debts or not ; and if any default be founde, a remedy to be had forthwith for a recompence. Breakfastes be there none, savinge onely the head officers when they be present; to the ladyes and gentlewomen, to the Deane and to the Chappell, to the Almoner, to the gentlemen ushers, to the Cofferer, to the Clerke of the Kitchin, and to the Marshall. All other offycers that must be at the brevement, have their break - faste together in the Compting-house, after the breavementes be made. The remaynes of every offyce be taken at every moneths ende, to understande whether the offycers be in arrearadge or not. Lyvery of bread, ale, and fyre, and candle, is assigned to the heade offycers if they be presente ; to the ladyes and gentlewomen as many as be marryed ; to the Deane and to the Chappell ; to the Almoner, to the chapleynes, to the gentlemen ushers, to the cofferers, to the Clerk of the Kitchin, to the Marshall, and to all the gentlemen within the house, if they lye not in the towne ; that is to saye, whole lyverye of all such thinges as is above specyfied, from the feaste of allhallowe unto the feaste of the purifycation of our ladye ; and after the purificatyon, half lyverie of fyres and candles nnto good frydaye ; for then expireth the tyme of fyre and candle alsoe. To all sicke men is given a lybertye to have all such thinges as may be to theire ease ; if he be a gentleman and will be at his owne dyett, APPENDIX. 127 he hath for his boarde weekelye xvi d. and ix d. for his servante, and nothing out of the house. If any man fall impotente, he hath styll the same wages that he had when he might doe best service, duringe my ladyes lyfe ; and xvi d. for his boarde weekelye, and ix d. for his servante. If he be a yeoman xii d. a groome or a page ten pence. The Orders and Rules are from a collection of papers which formerly belonged to Sir Julius Cassar ; now {i.e. 1790) at the Board of Green Cloth, St. James's. Published in 1790 by the Society of Antiquaries in " A Collection of Ordinances and Regulations for the Government of the Royal Household, made in divers reigns : from Edw. III. to Wil- liam and Mary." (Brit. Mus. 683h. 14.) N.B. — The same word is in several instances spelt differently in this copy, but is according to the original. — J. F. R. 3. Extract from the Will of the Duchess Cicely. By her will dated 1 April, signed 31 May, and proved 27 August, 1495, Cicely directs that, " all my plate not bequeithed be sold, and the money thereof be putte to the use of my burying, that is to say, in discharging of such costes and expensis as shalbe for carying of my body from the Castell of Berkehampstede unto the colege of Fodring- hey (where her husband Richard Duke of York was buried). And if any of the said plate be lefte unexpended I woll the said Colege have it. . . . Also I geve to the house of Assherugge a chesibule and ij tunicles of crymsyn damaske embrawdered with thre albes. Also I geve to the house of Saint Margaretes twoo auter clothes with a crucifix and a vestiment of grene vellet. . . . Also I geve to the parisshe church of Much Barkehampsted a coope of blewe bawdekyn, the orffreys embrawdered. . , . Also I give to Edward Delahay twoo gownes of musterdevilers furred with mynckes and iiij° li. of money. . . In witnesse whereof I have sette my signet and signe manuell, at my Castell of Berkehamstede the last day of May the yere of our Lord abouesaid. (1495). — Cussans, p. 53. 4. In connection with the Castle I would refer to " Berkham- sted Castle, an Historical Reverie," by J. R. Crawford, M.A., Master of Berkhamsted School, 1861. 1 28 APPENDIX. APPENDIX VIII. The Church. 1. The following is an extract from a very able Paper read in the Church on June 11, 1881, to the members of the St. Paul's Ecclesiological Society, by the Rev. Canon Davys, Rector of Wheathampsteacl : — In the western wall of the north transept externally is a very old rough arch, which probably is a portion of a church which stood here before the present one ; for it appears that there was a presbyter here at the time of the Conquest who probably officiated in the church, of which this rough arch forms the only visible remnant. However — say about the year 1220 — a new chinch, a vast improvement upon anything that had existed here before, was begun. This Mr. Parker, I understand, when describing the church some few years ago to the members of the Archaeological Institute, considered to have been of the form of a Greek cross, with a low tower and short spire at the intersection. I see no reason to differ from this view, though no clue at present remains for determining the length of the nave. The piers and arches of the tower of that date are before you, and are admirable examples of the earliest period of what we call Early English. Some of the original lancet windows are still to be seen in the chancel, and I think that a portion of the corbel table under the original over- sailing roof is in situ ; but it is rather difficult to be sure of this, for the whole chapel of St. Katherine, from which this is to be seen, is a puzzle. It appears to have been built out during the great works accomplished during the later portion of the Early English period ; in fact, to have been about the last work accomplished during that time. It took the form of a large south chancel aisle, an arch having been cut into it through the original earlier wall, and its windows seem to have been adapted for geometrical tracery ; but when this chapel was further "glorified," at the time when the beautiful and elaborate sepulchral recess, now curiously enough associated with the name of Friar Bacon, was inserted, tracery of late Decorated character, which has recently been restored, was placed in the windows, which originally contained geometrical tracery. The original transepts APPENDIX. 129 probably had eastern chapels ; that on the south now gave place to this larger addition, and was entered from the transept by an arch, now filled by the organ. You must notice, too, a staircase to the tower, which seems also to have led to the rood-loft, which was over the screen, now twisted round and crossing the arch between the chancel and St. Katherine's Chapel, it having till recently occupied its original place across the chancel arch. But the great addition to the church of 1220 was the new nave which we now see, a long and splendid structure, which renders this church one of the grandest for the reception of a congregation that I know. On the south side of the south aisle of this extended nave is the Chapel of St. John, originally provided for the brotherhood of that order, and now used for the accommodation of the members of the foundation raised thereon by the munificence of Dean Incent. I have already expressed my sorrow at the loss of the lower portions of the screen-work of the structure. I must also direct your attention to " the singularly beau- tiful timber pillar which supports its roof." We will now pass in review the north transept. The piers and vaulting of the eastern aisle here appear to be of Early English date ; and here are the inserted windows of rich Decorated character to the restoration of which I have already alluded ; here, too, is a remnant of a very interesting ancient font. Passing to the south transept, we find a clustered pillar of very great beauty, while in the north aisle of the nave is a window with very singular tracery, which appears to have formed one of many insertions in the geometrical period. The great west window, the whole addition of the clerestory, and many window insertions, belong to the Perpendicular style, while the upper portion of the tower is an addition very late in the Tudor period, and of very considerable interest. 2. Memoranda of the recent Restorations — 1870-1881 : — In the year 1870 the church (with the exception of the north transept and part of the south aisle) was restored, under the direction of Mr. Butterfield. During this restoration the chancel was raised both floor and roof : the former paved with marble and encaustic tiles, the latter renewed. The extent to which this was done may be seen by examining the recess in which the credence table is placed. This originally formed 130 APPENDIX. the door into the vestry, which was pulled down. The whole church was re-floored, and consequently many of the memorial slabs and brasses moved. The roof of the south transept was raised to its original pitch. The rood screen was removed into St. Katherine's Chapel, which was fitted up as a vestry and organ chamber. The organ, a very fine one, was built by Walker. The screen in St. John's Chapel was cut out, the top being left. The south porch with " reclusary" over, of which the window still remains, Avas thrown into the church. A doorway was re-opened in the south wall of the south transept, and a former priest's door removed. Wyattville's great west gallery was removed, and a new children's gallery constructed. Oak benches were substituted throughout the church for the former pews. A new font was erected near the west entrance. The Caroline font and the Norman fragment are preserved in the north transept. The choir stalls were placed under the central tower. In 1880 the south aisle of the nave was externally restored as a memorial to Colonel Smith-Dorrien, and in 1881 the north transept was also externally restored, and the beautiful tracery of its windows carefully renewed, also under the direction of Mr. Butterfield. 3. List of the most noteworthy Monuments in the Church :■ {Arranged in Chronological Order.) 1. Robert cle Tuardo? 2. Richard and Margaret Tor- rington, the elder (a " Frankelein ") 3. Margaret Briggs 4. " Friar Bacon " 5. Richard and Margaret Tor- rington, the younger [or ? Incent] 6. John Raven, Esq. 7. Thomas Brydde, Rector ? 8. Thomas Humfre 9. Richard Westbroke 10. Robert Incent 11. Katherine Incent 12. Sir John Cornewallis, Kt. 13. John and Margaret Water- house Stone coped Tomb N. Aisle of Nave c . 1222 Brass N. side of Tower 1356 do. N. Transept c . 1360 Sepulchral Recess Vestry c . 1370 Altar Tomb N. Transept c, . 1377 Brass S. side of Tower 1395 do. Chancel c. 1400 Palimpsest N. Transept (in window-ledge) c, ,1470 Brass N. Transept 1485 do. S. John's Chauntry (on pillar) 1509 do. do. 1521 Altar Tomb N. Aisle of Nave 1544 Brass Vestry 1558 APPENDIX. 131 14. Dame Margaret Water- house Mural Vestry. 1587 15. Thomas Waterhouse do. do. 1600 16. Thomas Baldwin, Esq. Mural Altar Tomb S. Aisle of Nave 1641 17. Brothers Murray Mural Chancel c. 1649 IS. John Sayer (" Archima- girus " Chief Cook to Charles II.) Altar Tomb N. Transept 1682 10. Mrs. Elizabeth Cradock Mural S. Transept 1704 20. Ann Cowper (Mother of the Poet) Mural Chancel 1736 4. List of Stained Glass Windows : — Ancient. In the westernmost north lancet window in the chancel some fine fragments of fourteenth-century glass. In the easternmost, the arms of the See of Canterbury impaling Chichele, c. 1420, and two fine royal coats, France mod. quartered with England. Coats of Kichard Duke of York in St. John's chauntry and Cicely Neville in west window of north aisle. Torrington arms in north transept. Modern. 1. North transept, formerly in east window. Powell. 1852. 2. North transept, Dorrien Memorial. Powell. 1852. 3. Chancel. South lancet. Gift of Eev. A. B. Wrey, Curate. 4. St. John's chauntry. Crawford Memorial. Heaton and Butler. 1865. 5. St. John's chauntry. Bartrum Memorial. Heaton and Butler. 1869. G. West window.* Gift of T. Whately, Esq. Heaton and Butler. 1866. 7. East window. By subscription, in memory of the Poet Cowper. Clayton and Bell. 1872. 8. North aisle. Bullock Memorial. Gibbs. 1872. 9. South transept. Curtis Memorial. Clayton and Bell. 1872. 10. South aisle. " Mary " window. Cooper Memorial. Clayton and Bell. 1874. * For a detailed account of this window, vide " Painted Windows," by F. B. Harvey, M.A. Longmans, 1869. 132 APPENDIX. 11. North aisle. Longman Memorial. Heaton and Butler. 1877. 12. South aisle. Smith-Dorrien Memorial. Kempe. 1880. To this list of memorials of the departed may well be added two remarkable features in the adornment of the church. The mosaic reredos by Powell; artist, Burrows; subject, "The Crucifixion" (erected by public subscription) ; and the great fresco of the " Ascen- sion," by the same artist, over the tower arch (dedicated by his widow), both in memory of my revered and beloved predecessor in this rectory, the Rev. James Hutchinson. The very handsome eagle lectern (Barkentin and Krall), a family memorial of the late Colonel Smith-Dorrieu, should also not pass unnoticed. 5. Nicholas Talbot's Will :— Cussans (p. 85) quotes from the interesting will of Nicholas Talbot, who was in the service of the Duchess Cicely (Camden Society, vol. 49), as follows (8th June, 1501): — He directs that should he die within seven miles of Great Berk- hamsted he was to be buried in the church there within the Chapel of Our Lady, between the image of our Lady of Pity and our Lady of Grace. After giving 6s. 8d. to the high altar and 20s. towards the reparation of the church, he directs that a good and virtuse prest rede and synge for me after my decesse the space of vii. yeeres, and if he be not vertuose I prey you that be myn executors let hym be changyed. I will that a prest syng for Jane my wyff the space of an hole yeer. I will that a prest syng for my Lady Cecyle, late Duches of Yorke, the space of a hole yeer. He wills that masses be sung for David Gryffyd, his wife's first husband, his brother and sisters, and his parents, also for the souls of Henry Matthew, John Moyr (More) and Thomas Ly (Lee), late parsons of Berkehamstede. 6. Chantry Certificate, Co. Hertford. Roll 27, No. 60.— Com- mission dated 14 Feby. 2 Edw. VI : — The valuacon off all the Londf tentf ^ hereditament f, stokkf off cattail °l redie money, w ch were geven willed and assigned APPENDIX. 133 for and toward^ the manuten^nce of any lampes lyghte obbitf 1 annivsaries w*iil the said countie oif Hertfff viz in B. d. 60. Barkli"~m- A Rent goynge out of a Tente w 1 sted : burgg. thapp r termcf in* Rofet Grufce geven to the fyndinge of a Lampe by the yere .... iiij ij A Rente also geven to the same Intente goynge out of a Tente of Rich Grover by the yere . . vj iiij viij 7. Inventory of Furniture and Ornaments remaining in the Parish Church of Berkhamsted in the last year of the reign of King Edward the Sixth. (Extracted from List by J. E. Cussans, F.RHist.S. Parker, 1873):— Maid the ffirste Day of Novembre &c And John Alley of Barkham Barkh a mstede Peter &c Tanner &c Belonginge to stede the Pyshe Church of Barkh a mstede &c Imprimis iiij or Belles in the Steple The gret Bell by estemacion po$ xviij hundrethe the next Bell by estymacion po£ x hundrethe The next Bell by estimacon poa viij hundrethe The lest Bell By estimacon vj hundreth Itm a Saunce Bell po^ di hundreth Itm another Saunce Bell pojp xvj pound e Itm ij handbelles po^ xij poundf Sin poundres m 11 m li m 11 viijC xxviij 11 Itm a Challise of Silluer & guylte po^ xviij onces piaytt Itm a Challise of Silluer & guylte po^ xi onces * Sic. ? in the tenure of. 134 APPENDIX. pro ecciia Itm another Challise of Siluer and guilte po& xj onces ornaments Imprimis ij° Coppes of vellet one Bedde thother Tawnye Itm ij° other Coppes of Silke verry Sor worne Itfri a vestment of Clothe of silluer Itm a vestment of Blew Damaske and Deakones of Blew Silke Itm a vestment of Tawnye Silke Itm a vestment of Redd silke Itm a vestment of Taffata & another of Grene silke Itm an Alter Clothe of redd Sattine Itm a Canape of Blew Damaske Itm ij° Crose Clothes of Silke Itm a vestment of Blewe vellet Itm ij° vestment^ of whit ffuschian Itm a vestment of Russet Dammaske Itm a vestment of Sattyne of Brydgf Itin a Deakon and a Sub deakon of Blewe Sattine Itm a vestment of redde Say Itm a vestment of Blake dornex w th Swannes Itm ane Alter ffrounte of Red and Grene Sattine of Brudges pro ecciia Itm a pair of Organnes and a pair portatives Itm too Sacringe Belles APPENDIX IX. The Manor and Honour. (Transcribed by Mr. J. F. Kolph. Lands. MS. 805, fol. 25-65. Brit. Mus.) " The Honour of Barkhamsted, in the County of Hertfordshire. The verdict & answers of us the jurors whose (names are) here- under written being tenants of the severall Manors (of the) Borough and Hallimott within the Honour unto certeyne (Articles) after- mencioned upon full consideracion and deliberacion had (thereunto) being given us in charge to be enquired of at the Co rt holden for y c Honour at the Castle at Barkhams d the xxij th day of October 1616 and in the years of the raigne of our Sovraigne Lord King James by APPENDIX. 135 the Grace of God of England Scotland France and Ireland Defender of the Faith, &c. viz. of England France and Ireland y c ffortith and of Scotland the fiftith before Edward Salter High Steward of the sayd Honour for the Prince. Francis Barber, gent. Willm. Pitkyn. George Dover. Henry Feild. Willm. Edlyn. Eobte. Attwell. John Ewer. Tymothy Dawbney, John Brewer. John Southen. James Fenn. Tho. Hill. John How of Luton. Henry Sear. John Norris. Robte. White, Willm. Willett. Willm. Lake. John How of Little Heath. Francis Russell." Oliver Haines. (Here follow twenty-four Articles of enquiry, to which these are the answers) : "The Verdict and Answere of us y c s d Jurors unto ye Precedent Articles." To the first the jurors reply, that " Thomas Murry, Esq r . holdeth the Scite Circuite and Precinct of the Castle of Barkhams d w th the Parke conteyning together by estimacion seaven hundred acres. And alsoe divers Meddowes conteyning by estimacion twoo & twenty acres & a halfe lying by the Rivers Side betweene the Parke gate & Gossams end & w ch sometymes were fower or five severall meadowes scituate lying or being in the Parish of Barkhams d S* Peter and one other Meadow called Lord's Mead cont. by estimacion seaven acres be it more or lesse lying in y e Parish of Barkhams d St. Mary als Northchurch. But how he holdeth the same we know not." Other landowners were William Baldwin, William Edlyn, Oliver Haines, William Royce, Francys Wethered, &c. " There are also Twoo Mills, viz. the Upper Mill in the occupacion of George Collins & the other in the occupacion of Richard Besouth w tu the Banks to the said Neither Mill cont. by estimacion one acre & a halfe or thereabouts as they are now inclosed but how they hold them or w* rent they pay we know not. 136 ' APPENDIX. There is alsoe one Great Comon or wast ground of pasture and wood called the ffryth & one other greate wastgrounde called Bark- hams d Heath and one other little wastgrounde called The Little Heath. There are alsoe twoo other little plotts of wastgrounde knowne by the name of Brickhill Greene and Shuter's Way. There is also one wast plott or moore lying by the river neare the Upper Mill and one little wast plott or moore lying at a place called Bankmill in all w ch wast grounds or commons the tennants of ye sayd Borough and Hallimote have tyme out of memory of man used to have, commons " There are certeyne Spittle houses w ch Ed- mund Younge, Esq. holdeth by Lettres Patents, viz. : the Over Spittle house als St. John the Evangelist Spittle house. And the other the Neither Spittle house als St. Leonards Spittle house w th ffower tenemt 8 . or cottages belonging to the same and divers parcells of arrable land pasture and wood grounde cont. by estimacion one hun- dred threescore and ffower acres be they more or lesse together w th the scites circuits and precincts thereof and thirteene shillings ffower pence rent w ch as we are informed he holdeth in capite by certeyne Lettres Patents whereunto wee referr ourselves w ch Lettres Patents were showed to the commission 8 of the former survey on ye behalfe of Prince Henry * about tenn yeares last past/' The length of the jurors reply, the MS. in all fill 80 pages, precludes my giving in extenso the answers to the other queries. " The divers Mannor belonging unto the Honno r of Berkhamsted w th in the lymits or bounds of the Borough or Hallimote of Barkhams d lying w th in the seve*rall parishes of Bark- hams' 1 St. Peter and Barkams d St. Mary als Northchurch," were "tkeManno r of Durrance als North Barkhams d .... One other Manno r called Northcott Hill Co mn alsoe one other Manno r or scite of a manno r called Maudlyns." .... also " divers ancient capi- tall messuages w ch are conceived by some of the owners thereof to be Mano rs and to have divers quit rents belonging unto them viz. : The Kectory or Parsonage house of Northchurch whereof John Hopkins, clarke, one of the King's Ma ties Chaplayns in ordinarie is endowed in the right of his church. One other capitall messuage called campions in the tenure of James Mayne, Esq. One other capitall * We find in the reply to the second article mention of " a former survey " in the twelfth yeare of the raigne of late Queene Elizabeth." APPENDIX. 137 messuage called Pilkingtons in the tenure of Francys Barker, Gent. And one other capitall messuage called Combs in the tenure of Wil- liam Hodgson " To the third article the jurors " answere and present all the names of y e ffreehold rs together w th their lands and tenem ts , and w 1 rents are due for the same to the Prince his Highnesse." .... The freeholders were very numerous ; among them were James Mayne, Esq. ; Thomas Duncombe, Esq. ; Thomas Newman, parson of Berk- hamsted St. Peter ; Francys Barker, Gent. ; Arthur Blunt, Gent. ; Thomas Hunt, Francys Wethered, Gent. ; George Dover, William Hodgson, Kichard Oxley, Edward Attwood, Thomas Babb, Kichard Lawrence, John Shermantyne, Edward Clarke, Roman Clarke, Oliver Haines, William Lake, Robert Tinker, John Grover, James Frane, Thomas Norcot, John Serman, Roger Whitchurch, Edward Howe, Richard Warde, John Cooke, Richard Speede, Henry Axtell, Henry Feild, Thomas Roberts, John Hopkins, Edward Hopkins, Thomas Hill, Nicholas Gossame, John Brewer, Thomas Eggleton, William Pitkin, William Dagnall, Richard Thomas, Jeremy Holdkin, John Tripp, William Oxley, Robert Abower, Robert Haidon, John Harris, William Axtell, Robert Finch, Raphe Newman, Edward Shovler, William Martyne, &c. all of Berkhamsted St. Peter ; and Edmond Yonge, Esq., Thomas Hunt, " Scoolemaster of the ffree Scoole of Barkhamsted," William Howe, James Fenn, William Willet, Philip Russell, Robert White, Richard Partridge, James Hardinge, Richard Woode, John Cock, Robert Bradleie, Richard Dell, Jeffery Bampton, John Dogget, Jchn Brisco, John England, Richard Whelpley, Thomas Wethered, Henry Randall, William Baldwine,* &c. of Berkamsted St. Mary. Many of them were freeholders in both parishes, and appear from the reply to the fifth article to have been also "customary tenants" of the Manor. The jurors answer that every customary tenant ought to pay unto the Lord of this Honnor, " upon his admit- * " William Baldwine holdeth by lease of tenn yeares twelve acres of land by estimaeion, be it more or lesse, lying in the parish of Barkhams d St. Mary als Northchurch, late the land of Kalph Axtell, dec d , since whose death there hath bynn suite commenced in chancery betweene Edward Axtell and the daughter of Tho. Axtell, touching the title thereof, whereby the evidence is kept in chancery and soe noe evidence given unto us thereof, neither doe wee know the true state thereof. But as we have heard the rent thereof is a gilliflower when any Kinge or Queene shalbe crowned in y e Castle of Barkhams d ." 138 APPENDIX. tance upon death or surrender the ancient yearly rent according as the Lord's rent is yearly and noe more " that they " know not any customary Lands or Tenem ts aliened in fee" and " that noe customary Tenements ought to pay any Herriott upon death or surrender nor upon any forfeiture committed by any customary Tenante" nor ought they "to pay Twoo Henns & Twoo Cocks at the feast of Christs nativity for ought wee know." To the thirteenth article they " answere that the s d Towne of Barkhams d is an ancient Borough & Merkett Towne & very likly hath bynn a corporacion & tyme out of memory of man alwaies reputed to be a Borough & for ever continued & intitled by the name of a Borough in all ancient & Later Co rt rolls and as wee have heard hath had divers ancient bene- ficiall Lib ties & prevelidges & other means for inriching of y e sayd Towne being then in great trading & in flourishing estate at such tyme as y e castle was meynteyned & inhibited or much frequented by the Kings of this Realme and concourse of people by reason thereof And that the sayd Bayliffes of the said Borough have & doe usually receive the waifs and strays & such like profitts happening w th in the sayd Borough to their own use w^out making any Ace 1 for the same, for w ch s d profitts happening wi th in the said Borough the s d Bayliffes have bynn tyme out of memory of man & yet are charged and charge- able with the safe custody of all felons apprehended w th in the s d Borough during the tyme of there keeping there at the proper charges of the sayd Bayliffes wi th out any allowance for the same other then y e sayd profitts & other casualitys happening w th in the sayd Borough And concerning y e yearly value of the sayd waifes strayes &c. soe happening w th in the s d Borough we cannot certeynly set downe being in themselves soe uncerteyne but wee esteeme them not to be worth above x 8 p and neither doe wee know certeynly of any yearly rent p d for the same. But as wee have heard That the said Bayliffs doe pay yearly for the same & for the ffaire and markett Twenty shillings to the Prince his highnesse or to his Bayliffe or Receiver there for the sayd Honnor." They also " answere That the churchwardens of y e Towne of Bark- hams' 1 St. Peter for the tyme being have tyme out of memory of man received the profitts of a Tenem 1 & Orchard and likewise of the Co r - house & Church-house for the Releife of the poore for w ch Tenem* & Orchard there is a rent of foure pence payd yearly to the Lord of the Manno 1- & for the Church-house a rent of Twelve pence p d yearly to APPENDIX. 139 Francys Barker and that the Co rt Loft being now used for a markett- house was buylt as wee conceive at the charge of the Towne by the consent of the Lord of the Mano r for the tyme being for the necessary use of the markett. And twoo shillings & twoo pence rent payd for the same. And for the more fitter use of the markett there hath bynn of late a Litle house buylt at the charges of the Towne for a buttermarkett house for w ch as it seemeth there is an increase of twoo pence per annum." They affirm that they "know not the names of any Burgages . . . .... w th in or belonging to the Borough of Barkhams d or whether they or any of them ought to doe any harvest worke as in the sayd Article is mencioned," and that they "know not such land by the name of the old Assart Land " or " any such Tenures by the name of the greater or the lesser tenure " They state that they know not "of any such Co rt as is mencioned in that (20 th ) Article by the name of the Great Co rt of Barkhams d or other Co rt except the Court Leet & Court Baron holden severallie for y e Borough & Hallimote nor of any Co rt called by the name of the Portmote Co rt except it be intended to be that w ch is called the Borough Co rt " and " That there is only one ffaire holden yearly in the Towne of Barkhams d afores d w ch is on St. James his day only where anciently as wee are credibly informed there was another ffaire there holden about the Third of May w ch continued seaven dayes and- but one Merkett weekly w ch is on the Munday In their answer to the 23rd article the jurors say " That there is noe such name or use of a yard land w th in this Manno r now in being nor of any carewes of land w th in the tyme of our memory but wee hold a plow land doe conteyne one hundred and ffifty acres or there- abouts and that sixteene foote and a halfe is accounted for a pole or perch by the custome of this Honno r . But as wee have heard that his Highnesse lands are accounted here and elsewhere to be eighteene foote to the pole." In conclusion the jurors assert that " our desire is to present the truth in all things to the uttmost of our knowledge and understanding and in testimony thereof wee have hereunto sett our hands." Here follow the same names as are appended to the prefatory para- graph (excepting that of John Southen, which is omitted) also some 140 APPENDIX. additional ones, viz., William Pope, John England, Hen. Pntman, Mich. Gossame, Rich. Deane, and Jam. Gregory. — J. F. R. There is another enquiry under date 1755 (Brit. Mus. Lands. MS. 656), to which reference may be made, but it is too long for insertion here. APPENDIX X. The Poet Cowper. It may be well to quote in connection with the History of Bevkham- sted the opening words of Southey's Life of Cowper : — " William Cowper, the most popular poet of his generation, and the best of English letter-writers, was born on the 15th of November (old style), 1731, in the rectory at Great Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire. " The place of his birth is remarkable in English history. The Mercian Kings had a palace there, and it again became a royal resi- dence under the first of the Plantagenets, who granted to the men and merchants thereof liberty to trade through all his lands of England and Normandy and Aquitain and Anjou without paying either customs or exaction, and that they should be quit of all servile works, and be exempt from all tolls, and enjoy the same liberties, laws, and customs as in the time of Edward the Confessor, and that the market should be held within seven miles of the town. From Henry the Fourth's time the honour and castle of Berkhamsted went with the Earldom of Cornwall. Twice they were granted to unfortunate favourites : by Edward II. to Piers Gaveston, and by Richard II. to Robert de Vere. Cicely Duchess of York, and mother of the last of the Plantagenets, resided here during the latter years of her unhappy life, and from the time of her death the honour of Berkhamsted has descended to the successive Princes of Wales with the Dukedom of Cornwall. Notable as these circumstances are this little town will be more known in after ages as the birthplace of Cowper than for its connection with so many historical personages who figured in the tragedies of old." Noteworthy also is a letter to Mr. Rose (Southey's Life, vol. i. p. 30), written October 19, 1787;— APPENDIX. 141 " At that time" (1756, when he lost his father) "I was young— too young to have reflected much. It had never occurred to me that a parson has no fee simple in the house and glebe he occupies. There was neither tree, nor gate, nor stile in all that country to which I did not feel a relation, and the house itself I preferred to a palace. I was sent for from London to attend him in his last illness, and he died just before I arrived. Then and not till then I felt for the first time that I and my native place were disunited for ever. I sighed a long adieu to fields and woods from which I once thought I never should be parted, and was at no time so sensible of their beauties as just when I left them all behind me to return no more." Cowper writes from Berkhamsted, Thursday, October 18, 1759. He seems to have been arranging his father's affairs. Dr. Jeffreys was then rector. His mother-in-law continued to live here, as we find from a letter to Mr. Hill. She died July 31, 1762, aged 63, and is buried in Bath Abbey Church. His own mother's portrait was in the possession of her descendant, the late Mr. Donne, who kindly brought it to Berkhamsted, and ex- hibited it at a lecture which he gave on Cowper at the Town Hall. It is engraved by Blake, in Hayley's Life. A book containing the originals of Cowper's correspondence with Mr. Hill was lent to me by its possessor, the late Mr. Jekyll, of Wargrave, and shown on the same occasion. There are portraits of Cowper by Lawrence (engraved by Blake, in Hayley's Life), by Komney, and by Abbot. Canon Davys says that his brother-in-law, Canon Pratt, has a por- trait of the poet's father, and also many others of the family. The only relic of the old rectory (pulled down in the time of the Rev. John Crofts, who built the new house higher up) is the well-house, by the side of the drive in the garden — " Cowper's well." The following lines, written by my friend, the Rev. G. S. Cautley, author of the " Afterglow," I caused to be inscribed on a marble slab and affixed to the well : — " The shy perennial fountain here the ivy-tods among, Just emblem of his modesty and pure undying song, With daily crystal draught refreshed the poet's fragile youth, Amid the precious opening buds of genius, grace, and truth ; Ere spectral wrath had clouded in despair the noble mind, Self-loathing, yet so loving still, so boon to all mankind. Oh, stranger, in your heart of hearts, let tender reverence dwell, And love of love revived to-day at gentle Cowper's well." 142 APPENDIX. The memorial window is mentioned in connection with the Church. The Rev. J. E. Greathead, the son of one of Cowper's intimate friends, aided greatly in the selection of the subjects, which are all chosen with reference to Cowper's poems. On the topmost light will be observed the spotless lamb, with the angelic choir around. APPENDIX XI. The following lines, kindly written by Mr. Cautley for our parish magazine in 1874, may be inserted here, as a tribute to the surpassing beauty of what may be truly regarded as one of our chiefest antiquities, and at the same time one of our greatest present glories : — Berkhamsted Common. When Berkhamsted Common we traversed at noon, In the sweetest of months, between April and June, The furze was in flower with splendour untold, And the heath was an ocean of verdure and gold. Little lambs in green pathways enchanted the eye, Like drops of white sunshine distilled from the sky ; The stonechat was busy, and faint from the vale Was heard the shy cuckoo's monotonous tale. O'er the sweet-scented gold-fields the sunbeams career, They flood the wide distance and sparkle anear ; And like angels all fresh from the glory above, They kindle our hearts with the fervour of love. We think of Linnasus and share his amaze, When he glanced o'er these miles of magnificent blaze; And we honour the faith of the sage as he knelt, To thank the good God for the beauty he felt.* * There is a tradition to this effect concerning the gi'eat Swedish philosopher, who visited England in 1736. APPENDIX. 143 beauty, nature, sunshine and hues ! Whence, whence comes the rapture your visions infuse ? Ye are earth's, ye are transient, your end is in sight, Ye shift with the season, and fade with the light. Yes, they shift these bright visions, but only make way For others that paint our life's wonderful day ; Till we kneel in the presence by myriads adored, At the home of all beauty, the throne of the Lord. Now He in whose image our essence is framed, His love and His glory once more hath proclaimed ; For He beautifies earth with this gorgeous toy, And gives with the beauty the soul to enjoy. Nettleden, 1874. INDEX. Plan of the Castle facing Lecture I. „ Church „ II. Akeman Street, 6, 120. Alms House, 50, 97. Ashridge, 17, 31, 74. Axtell, Col. 48. Bacon, Friar, 69, 128. Beckett, Thomas a, 12. Berkhamsted, Arms of, 41. ,, Borough of, 38. „ Common, 19, 32,136, 142. „ Corporation of, 43. „ Etymology of, 2. „ Honor and Manor of, 97, 134. „ House or Place, 33,46,48. „ Market, 23, 44. „ „ House, 94. „ Marquis of, 21. „ Members of Parliament for, 20. „ Merchants and Manu- facturers of, 13. „ Orthography of, 4, 105. „ Pronunciation of, 5. „ Rectors of, 52, 114. „ Rectory, 71, 141. „ Tokens, 49. Books of reference, 118. Boleyn, Ann, 26. Bourne's School, 90. Brasses, 62. Broome, 60. Brownlow, Earl, 26, 50, 97. Bridgewater, 1st and 2nd Earls of, 78. „ Francis, Duke of, 80. „ John William, Earl of, 50,81. „ Treatises, 81. Broadway, 93. Brut, 21. Burghersh, Sir Bartholomew, 21 Butts, 99. Camden, 4, 29, 41. Cary, Sir Adolphus, 34. „ Sir Edward, 26, 33. „ Sir Henry (Lord Falkland), 34, 68. „ Lucius (2nd Lord Falkland), 34. „ Sir Robert (Earl of Monmouth), 35. Castle, 9, 27, 120. „ Inquisition, temp. Edw. I., 18. „ Edw. III., 19, 28, 106. „ Siege of, 15. Cautley, Rev. G. S., 141, 142. Charles I., 36, 45, 79. „ II., 55, 96. Charter of Henry H., 12. Henry HI., 17. „ Edw. IV., 23. „ James I., 38. Chaucer, 22. Church, 51, 128. „ Arch, ancient, 128. 146 INDEX. Church, Chapel of Oar Lady, 52,66, 132, „ „ St. Katherine, 52, 66, 67, 128. „ Chauntry of St. John Baptist, 55, 66, 129. „ „ Lamp, 132. „ Dates of, 1 13. „ Font, ancient, 129. „ „ Caroline, 57. „ Monuments, list of, 130. „ Ornaments of, temp. Rdw. VI ., 133. ,, Restoration of, 1820, 55. „ „ 1870-81, 129. „ Windows, list of, 131. Cicely, Duchess of York, 24, 56, 65, 83, 132. ,, Household of, 124. „ Will of, 127. Clark, G. T., Esq., 120. Cornwall, Edmund, Earl of, 17, 74. Cornwallis, Sir John, 60. Court-house, 97. Cowper, the Poet, 71, 140. „ Birthplace of, 71, 141. „ Mother's tomh, 71. Well, 141. „ Window, 38. Crecy, Battle of, 21, 64. Davys, Canon, 128. Delahay, Edward, 65. Domesday Book, 9. Dunstable, 5, 12, 17, 30. Durocobrivis, 5. Edward I., II., and HI., 19. „ the Black Prince, 20, 76. „ IV., 23, 100. „ V, 24. „ VI., 57, 77, 89. Elizabeth, Queen, 26, 57, 78. Feast, Parish, temp. Hen. VIII., 98. Field, Dr. Edward, 89. Finch, General, 26, 91. Fitz Piers, Geoffrey, 14. Frederick, Abbot of St. Albans, 8. Frithsden, 19. Froissart, 21. Fuller's Worthies, 68. Gaveston, Piers, 19. Grammar School, 72, 82. „ School-house, 86. „ Masters of, 116. Grestein, Abbey of, 114. Grymes Dyke, 5. Hailes Abbey, 17, 75. Henry I. and II., 12. „ HI., 16. „ IV, V., and VI., 23. „ VII., 26. „ VHL, 26, 54, 76, 98. Hospital of St. Clement, 73. „ St. Edmund, 73. „ St. John Baptist, 14, 72, 82. „ St. John Evangelist, 72. „ St. Leonard, 73. Hutchinson, Rev. James, 132. Incent, Dean, 57, 65, 83. „ Robert and Katherine, 65. Isabel, Countess of Gloucester, 16. Isabella, Queen, 14. James I., 35, 37, 134. John of Berkhamsted, 19. „ King of England, 14 „ „ France, 22 Juries. 23. Ken, Bishop, 3. Lanfranc, 8. Leland, 30. Linnsens, 142. Louis, Prince, 14. Mandeville, Geoffrey, 14. William, 15. Marlin's Chapel, 74. INDEX. 147 Monboddo, Lord, 94. Moreton, Earl, 9. Murray, Thomas, Esq., 35, 36, 43, 135. Mrs., 35, 53. „ Brothers, 68. Names, local and proper, 31, 135. Neville, Ralph, 24. Northchurch, 3, 44, 74, 93. Paine, Nathan, 46. Palimpsest, brass, 70. Paul, St., 6. Peter the Wild Boy, 92. Philippa, Queen, 21. Phylypp, John, 54. Pie Powder, 43. Pole's Synopsis, 79. Portland, Earl of, 48. Randulphus, 12. Raven, John, Esq., 64. - Reeve, Richard, 88. Registers, 33. Richard LL, 22. „ III., 25. Romans, Richard, King of the, 16. Sang real, 75, 77. Sayer, John, 50, 61, 95, 97. Senchea, 17. Shakspeare, 25. Skelton, 77. Stukeley, Dr., 5, 29. Talbot, Nicholas, 132. Torrington, Richard and Margaret, 58, 62. Tumbril, 101. Vestry book, 54, 95. Wallingtord, 8, 23. Waterhouse, John, 67. „ Thomas, Rector of Ash- ridge, 76. „ Thomas, Churchwarden, 68. ,, Lady Margaret, 67. Withraede, Council of King, 6, 123. William the Conqueror, 7. „ Rufus, 11. Willis Browne, 77, 80. Witchcraft, 49. Woodhouse, Christopher, 44, 70. Westminster : Printed by Nichols & Sons, 25, Parliament Street, S.W. 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. 13Mar65 GH R'"C'D LD FEB 2 8 W> -4 PI I ; t n 01 a crw„ a 'en General Library (E455 A 58l2 ) 476B University of California v ' Berkeley