^LIBRARY 's- & I"" 7 ** r^- CC OR HISTORICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES OF JERUSALEM; WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF ITS ANTIQUITIES AND OF ITS PRESENT CONDITION. BY THE KEY. GEOKGE WILLIAMS, M,A. FELLOW OF KINO'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE ; AND LATE CHAPLAIN TO BISHOP ALEXANDER, AT JERUSALEM. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM SKETCHES BY THE REV. W. F. WITTS, B.A., FELLOW OF KING'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE. View of the Dead Sea from the W. of Ht. of Olives. LONDON: JOHN W. PARKER, WEST STRAND. CAMBRIDGE : T. STEVENSON. M.DCCC.XLV. 09 W72h TO THE PROVOSTS, FELLOWS, AND SCHOLARS TWO ROYAL AND RELIGIOUS FOUNDATIONS KING HENRY THE SIXTH: AS A TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE FOR BENEFITS RECEIVED IN THOSE COLLEGES, THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. a 2 -1 rrx^/ PREFACE. To attempt a full and connected narrative of the various events which have befallen the most ancient City of the world from its foundation to the present day, would require volumes, and was not contemplated in the present work ; the design of which is, simply to gather together into one view such notices of Jerusalem as are not easily within the reach of the English reader. I have already far exceeded the limits which I originally proposed to myself. In the prosecution of my main object, it was necessary to avoid extraneous discus- sions, however strong the temptation to enter on them, and to pass very lightly over much ground on which I would fain have lingered. Where I have entered into details in the historical part, I had generally some definite purpose in view, though it may not always be apparent to the reader, and did not seem necessary or desirable to declare it. The topography and antiquities were kept always in view in composing the historical chapters; and I was careful to note all the passages which would throw light on what I hope may prove the most valuable and successful part of my undertaking. This will explain the minute detail of the progress of the siege under Titus, and again, by the Crusaders. The earlier part of the Christian period has been fully dwelt on, with a view to re- move the common, but most erroneous supposition, that the ancient records of the Church of JElia have hopelessly perished, and that Eusebius is its earliest historian, instead of a mere transcriber of contemporaneous testimony. Where later writers VI PREFACE. have been full and explicit it was unnecessary to enlarge ; and I have satisfied myself with a bare outline, leaving it to be filled up from other quarters, to which I have referred. It was impossible to write on the subject of Jerusalem without recording, at almost every page, the remarkable fulfil- ment of numerous prophecies, relating to that city and its inhabitants; but as it would have been no kindness to the reader to deprive him of the satisfaction of gathering flowers in this interesting and important field, with his own hand, and the subject was foreign to my purpose, I have passed them in silence. And now, should it be asked, what occasion there was to inflict upon the patient public another volume, on a subject with which the press has been teeming for several seasons, I confess that it requires explanation, and I will offer the best apology I can. A work of much research has now been for some years before the world, one unavowed but ill-disguised object of which is to bring discredit on the early local tra- ditions of Palestine, so as ultimately to involve the venerable Fathers of the Church in the charge of dishonesty or unac- countable ignorance. The affectation of candour and impar- tiality with which the inquiry into the value of ecclesiastical traditions is there conducted, has given an additional weight to the observations in the minds of those who have neither the means nor the opportunity of testing their accuracy for themselves ; so that much higher value has been set upon the arguments than they deserved. I do not hesitate to declare that one object of the present volume is to expose the fallacy of many conclusions, argued out very often on insufficient premises, or in contravention of historical or topographical phenomena, by the author of the "Biblical Researches in PREFACE. Vll Palestine," in the hope that the consideration of facts, which he has either overlooked or neglected, may prove, what some might imagine requires no demonstration, that the evidence of a partial witness of the nineteenth century is insufficient against the voice of catholic antiquity. My motive I need not be ashamed to avow. Whatever opinion may be entertained of the ecclesiastical writers of the fourth century by that author, or others, the slightest knowledge of the formularies of the Church of Eng- land, or of the writings of her more eminent divines, convinc- ingly proves, that they who remodelled our Church in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, proposed to themselves for a pattern of pure and primitive Christianity that very age which is now represented as sunk in the lowest depth of superstition or vice; and, consequently, one who values our existing institutions must needs feel that the imputation deeply affects the character of those great men, if not for honesty, at least for sound judgment and discretion, or he must feel too deeply indebted to the Nicene age to hear its most dis- tinguished doctors calumniated, and feel no interest in the quarrel. A longer residence in Jerusalem than falls to the lot of common travellers, the diligent investigation of its antiquities on the spot, with the use of a carefully chosen library, have at least afforded me opportunities of arriving at a right decision on many points ; and may, I trust, excuse my presumption in pleading for a hearing in behalf of antiquity, whose cause seems to have been entirely given up before the champion of novelty, whom many subsequent travellers, without inves- tigating for themselves, have followed with marvellous sub- serviency. And it may add somewhat to the value of my Vlll PREFACE. remarks to acknowledge that several of his theories are so very plausible, and appear at first sight to be so strongly supported, that I was myself for some time inclined to adopt many of them, until further consideration and study con- vinced me that they were wholly untenable. I may specify particularly the interesting subject of the Temple-area and the Antonia, as points on which I expected that I should wholly coincide with his views ; but on which I venture to hope that he himself will acknowledge he was mistaken. For as no ecclesiastical tradition is involved in this question, there can be no temptation to either party to persist in a mistake ; inasmuch as the argument for or against their general credibility cannot be at all affected by the conces- sion ; nor will any reasonable person imagine that a writer's credit is injured by the demonstration or acknowledgment of error on a point of so much obscurity. I learn from a number of a magazine, of which Dr Ko- binson is editor, that so long ago as November 1843, he had received instructions from various quarters " that some of his statements and positions in respect to the topography of Jeru- salem, and some other places, were likely to be assailed, in carrying on a crusade in favour of the reputed site of the Holy Sepulchre." Who may be the " wandering hermit," prepared to " wake the storm of war' 1 in this good cause, I cannot imagine, but I sincerely hope that I may not be interfering with the task of one better qualified than myself to perform it. My only desire is to act as a humble " man- at-arms" in the attempt " to tear from the unbelievers the precious Tomb of the Captain of our Salvation ;" and in com- mon with all engaged in the " Holy War," I must feel very grateful to a generous adversary for placing me under such PREFACE. IX a glorious banner, thereby, I trust unwittingly, arraying him- self with the disciples of the Koran and the Crescent, the avowed enemies not of the Sepulchre alone, but of the Holy Church Catholic. Should it be thought that the constant reference to one author has invested the controversy with a private and per- sonal character, I can truly say that the result was felt to be as inevitable as it is undesirable. The " Biblical Researches" have obtained, and on many accounts have deserved, so much celebrity in England and in Germany, and so much attention has been devoted by the writer to this particular subject, that he stands forth necessarily in the first ranks as Chief- tain of the wwbelieving array, and as such must bear the brunt of the battle. And may I be permitted to express a hope, that while fighting under our respective colours, we shall all remember, that the only cause worth contending for is Truth, and that we may imitate not only the zeal but the courtesy of Christian and Saracenic warfare ? It remains only that I express my obligations to those who have in any way aided me in my undertaking. The services of some have been acknowledged in the notes, but I must here mention two dear friends, my companions in Jerusalem, and fellow-travellers at different times in Palestine, The Reverend W. F. Witts of my own College, to whom I am indebted for the illustrations, and who has further under- taken the labour of editorship during my absence from Eng- land, and the Reverend J. Rowlands of Queens' College, in the same University, whose early suggestions at Jerusalem have exercised a greater influence over this work than either X PREFACE. of us are aware of. But for the solicitation of the former the work would not have been undertaken ; the intelligent sympathy and diligent research of the latter have done much towards qualifying me to perform it. Lastly, I would tender my thanks to his Excellency the Director of the Imperial Library at St Petersburg, and to two of the Librarians, for their great courtesy to a stranger. The attentions of Dr Gottwald and Dr Dorn, to whose kind- ness I was indebted for materials for my work at a distance from my own library, will not readily be forgotten. May their interest in Asiatic research derive some gratification from this volume, as a small compensation for the trouble which it has occasioned them. ST PETERSBURG, j Feast of the Epiphany, 1845. TABLE OF CONTENTS, PART I. HISTORY. CHAP. I. Jerusalem from its Foundation to its Destruction by Nebuchadnezzar 1 48 II. From the Restoration under Cyrus, to its Destruction by Titus 49120 III. From the Rebuilding of " JElist Capitolina," under Adrian, to its Destruction by Chosroes 121 195 IV. Jerusalem under the Christian and Mahommedan Do- mination... 196249 PART II. TOPOGRAPHY, ANTIQUITIES, &c. I. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and Dr Robinson's Topography 253314 II. The Jewish Temple, and the Fortress Antonia 315 362 III. Antiquities without the City 363 428 IV. Modem Jerusalem, and its Inhabitants 429 486 EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES. As the illustrations have been introduced with a view to the topography, it has been thought that the following remarks may add to their value. By right and left in the description, the reader is to understand that position with reference to himself. 1. FRONTISPIECE. JERUSALEM, FROM THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. The spectator is looking west, over the deep Valley of Jehoshaphat, or the Valley of the Kedron : the pile of buildings on the left, outside the walls, is now known as Neby Daoud ; it comprehends the Tomb of David and the Co3- naculum, (see p. 417), and is situated on the part of Mount Zion now excluded from the city, (p. 415). On the right, within the city, the lofty dome marks the Armenian Convent of St James, (p. 455). Beneath this, is a long building, with a dome, this is the Church of the Purification, built by Justinian, (p. 331), afterwards converted into the Mosk el-Aksa, (p. 334). The dark ridge sloping down to the left is Ophel, (p. 330). Beneath the church is seen the top of the Pillar of Absalom, standing in the valley, (p. 374). The three towers to the right of the Armenian Convent compose the modern citadel, and the one distinguished by the flag (which only flies on Fridays) is the Castle of David, or the Tower of the Pisans, the probable site of the ancient Hippie tower, (p. 105). The Mosk of Omar, with its courts, cannot be mistaken, (p. 205). Beneath this, in the wall, is the Golden Gate, (p. 328). The two domes, above this, belong to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre ; the hinder one covers the Sacred Cave itself, (p. 298), the other belongs to the Greek Church, (p. 299). To the extreme right of the view is the Gate of St Stephen, (p. 364). 2. JERUSALEM, FROM THE NORTH. On the extreme left is the Mount of Olives, once crowned by the Church of the Ascension, (p. 365). Below this the Valley of the Kedron, from which rises Bezetha, obscuring the Mosk of Omar, whose dome is visible above it, (p. 282). Over the mosk is seen the Hill of Evil Council, (p. 410). To the right of Bezetha the ridge of Acra is visible crossed by the city walls, (p. 283). The cupola of the Armenian Convent, the two domes of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and the Castle of David will be easily found by consulting the description of the frontispiece. The road to the city passes the Tombs of the Kings (p. 424), through an extensive olive-grove. XIV DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. 3. WEST VIEW OF MOUNT ZION. This is taken from the head of the Valley of Hinnom (406, 431 ), the course of which is seen, bending to the right, round Mount Zion, part of which is without the city-walls, (p. 218). Without the walls, on the right, is seen the Tomb of David, &c. (p. 415), and within the large Armenian Convent of St James, (p. 455), with its garden in front ; to the left of which is the fortress, with the Hippie Tower, &c. (pp. 105, 217, 225), and below is the Jaffa Gate. 4. ENTRANCE TO THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. The tower on the left is an ancient belfry; it has suffered severely from earthquakes at various times. The date of this and of the windows and doors is disputed (2989). 5. ACRA, BEZETHA, AND THE SCOPUS. The view looks east, along the northern line of wall, the scene of the opera- tions of the Crusaders and of Saladin, (p. 217). It is taken from the north-west angle of the present walls, within which are the remains of Tancred's Tower, (p. 217). It looks over the Tyropaeon, (p. 273), to the hill Acra, (p. 277), and shews on the left an ancient stone quarry, called the Cave of Jeremiah, probably included in the second wall of Josephus, (p. 283). Beyond this is seen another hill, with olive-trees. This is Bezetha, (p. 282), and the high ground behind is the Scopus where Titus first encamped, (p. 110). 6. THE DAMASCUS GATE. This gate, which stands at the head of the Valley of the Tyropaeon, in the north wall, probably occupies the site of the Gate of Ephraim, (p. 391). It was called the St Stephen's Gate, in the time of the Crusaders, (p. 364). It is now known as Bab-es-Sham (the Damascus Gate), or Bab-el-Amud (the Gate of the Column). It is the handsomest gate now existing, and the new Pashas make their entrance through it. It is sometimes called, by the Moslems, "The Gate of Power." Immediately within this gate, on either hand, are two ruined chambers of cyclopean architecture, of an unknown date, (p. 262). The two domes of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre are seen over the wall. 7. CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE FROM NORTH OF MOUNT ZION. This is looking north, from the terrace of her Britannic Majesty's consul, situated on the steep brow of Mount Zion. The rums of the extensive Hospital of the Knights of St John (p. 431) occupy the open space before the front of the Holy Sepulchre, whose features may be recognized by the two domes and tower. To the right you look down upon the principal street in Jerusalem, usually known as " Christian Street," or " Patriarch Street," from which is the principal entrance to the court of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. XV 8. INTERIOR OF THE CAVE OF ST JAMES. This ancient tomb is situated in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, near the Pillar of Absalom, (p. 373), and is entirely excavated in the rock. On the opposite side of the valley is shewn the south-east angle of what is commonly called the Temple Enclosure, i. e. the wall of the present haram, or court of the Mosk of Omar. The cyclopean stones may possibly have belonged to an angle in the first wall of Josephus, and be of Jewish masonry, (p. 330). 9. THE MOUNT OF OLIVES, The view is taken from the terrace of the house occupied by the author during his sojourn at Jerusalem, and afterwards tenanted by his Prussian Majesty's consul. It should be mentioned, that in this view only artistic liberties have been taken with the foreground, but the representation of Mount Olivet is very faith- ful. Its three summits, the centre of which was occupied by the Church of the Ascension, (p. 365), now by a mosk and small village, may be clearly dis- tinguished. 10. TOWER OF DAVID AND RESIDENCE OF THE ANGLICAN BISHOP, &c. The artist is standing immediately within the Jaffa Gate, (p. 430), with the Hippie Tower, now the Castle of David, on his right. To the left is the house occupied by Bishop Alexander, (1843). Through the opening, formed by the street which leads down to the Bazaars and the Mosk of Omar (p. 268), is seen the summit of the Mount of Olives. 11. BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF JERUSALEM. This view is supposed to be taken from a point in the air directly above the Hill of Evil Council, to the south of the city. By comparing it with the Map of Jerusalem, and the different views, it will not be difficult to identify each particular object and feature. ERRATA. PAGE LINE FOR READ 5 note 4, dele "not." 8 15 mainly vainly. 11 note 5, V and . .uj^/yj 97 26 Prophyry Porphyry. 125 note 1 and 2, Valerius Valesius. 158 16 county country. 266 10 rubbrish rubbish. 275 note 7, Eyout Eyoub. Pillar of Absalom. PART I. CHAPTER I. THE early history of that city which was destined to occupy so conspicuous a place in the annals of the world, is so involved in obscurity, owing to the remote antiquity to which it belongs, that not only is nothing certain known of its origin, but writers are not agreed as to where it is first mentioned in Holy Scripture. The testimony of Josephus, representing as is probable the tradition of the Jewish church, has not been enough to satisfy either ancients or moderns that the Salem of Melchizedek is identical with the Jerusa- lem of which David was the second founder ; but as this opinion rests on very high authority 1 , and has nothing in 1 Lightfoot* quotes the Rabbles for this tradition (Chorograph. Cent. cap. 1 xxi.). St Jerome speaks of "Josephus et noslri omnes" of whom he mentions THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. it inconsistent with the sacred narrative, we may be allowed to adopt a theory which will give additional interest to the Holy City, by identifying the scene of the offering of the king of Salem with that of the sacramental institution of the Prince of Peace which was therein typified. The Jewish historian without any hesitation ascribes its foundation to Melchizedek, who, he says, . " was there the first priest of God, and first built a temple there 1 ;" and if this mysterious personage were identical with Shem, the son of Noah, as ancient tradition with singular consistency has delivered 2 , then may the Holy City boast an antiquity greater than any city in the world, and a founder every way worthy of its future celebrity. But whatever uncertainty may attach to these questions, there can be little doubt that the spot selected by God for the offering up of Isaac " in the land of Moriah," was one Hippolytus, Irenjeus, Eusebius of Cae- sarea and Emesa, Apollinarius, and Eustathius, as favouring this opinion, which he, however, did not adopt. He places the Salem of Melchizedek near Scythopolis, and identifies it with that in Gen. xxxiii. 18 (the same probably as in John iii. 23), where he says that extensive ruins of the palace of Mel- chizedek were shewn in his day, Epist. Crit. Vol. ii. pp. 571, 573, B. Ed. This father was mostly followed by the writers of the middle ages. Of modern writers, Wells, Bossuet, Hales, Gese- nius, Raumer, and others, follow Jose- phun ; the learned Reland, and, after him, Rosenmuller, Bleek, and others, follow St Jerome. A living French author flatters himself that he has set the question at rest for ever, in two words. He takes for granted that the Salem of Melchizedek was the "city of Shechem," Gen. xxxiii. 18; and then shews that this must have been north of Jerusalem, which, however, he allows was also originally called Salem. His- loire de Jerusalem, par M. Poujoulat, Vol. i. p. 53. 1 Jewish War, B.vi. cap. x. comp. Antiquities i. x. 2. 2 Lightfoot says that "all acknow- ledge Melchizedek for Shem." Cho- rograph. Decad. cap. x. sect. i. He adduces the Chaldeans, Jews, and many Christians (Miscell. xxviii.), and com- putes that Shem lived 75 years after Abraham came into Canaan. (Chron. in (Jen. xv.). St Jerome mentions this tradition, and shews from the Bible chronology that Shem outlived Abra- ham 35 years, (Epist. Crit. Vol. 11. p. 673. B. Ed.) CH. I.] THE HOLY CITY. 3 of the hills of Jerusalem, where, in this type, designed not only for the trial of his faith, but for the confirmation of his hope, transacted amid the scenes thereafter to be conse- crated by the expiatory sacrifice of the Son of God, the patriarch Abraham in an especial manner " rejoiced to see the day of Christ, and he saw it, and was glad 3 ." It is interesting, whatever be the value of the tradition, to find a record of these events still existing in Jerusalem ; to be shewn the tomb of Melchizedek, the place where Abraham offered up Isaac, and the tree which occupies the spot where the ram was caught in a thicket by its horns : it serves at least to bring these transactions most vividly before the mind, and to give a vitality to the Sacred History, which will incline those who profit by it more readily to pardon the credulity of the Greeks, in whose chapel of the Forerunner the venerable tomb is preserved, as is the place of sacrifice in the monastery of Abraham, on the hill of Calvary ; or the super- stition of the Copts, who regard with veneration a tree, as- sociated in their minds with an event of Scripture interest, which they reckon among the few treasures of their convent. We have no further mention of Jerusalem until after an interval of more than five centuries, when, the iniquity of the Amorites being full, and the time appointed for the fulfilment of the promise to Abraham having arrived 4 , the Israelites, under the command of Joshua, entered upon the possession of their inheritance 5 . 3 Genesis xxii. ; John viii. 56 : comp. Hebrews xi. 19 ; and see War- burton's Divine Legation, Lib. vi. sect. v. Works, Vol. HI. p. 383, &c. Ed. 1788. occurs hi the Sacred narrative, and even here it seems to be used by anticipation while the city retained it ancient name of Jebus, (see Joshua xv. 8 ; xviii. 28 ; and Judges xix.10). Joseph us informs 4 Genesis xv. 13, 16. j us that Melchizedek first called it 5 Joshua x. This is the first pas- j Jerusalem (J. W. vi. v. 1); but sage in which the name of Jerusalem his account of the origin of this name 12 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. The name of the king of Jerusalem at this time, com- pared with that of its former king in the time of Abraham, would seem to intimate that this city had already a religious character among the Canaanites which entitled its ruler to the honourable appellation of the " Righteous King," or the "Righteous Lord 1 ." It would appear, too, that Adoni- zedec was in a position to exercise some kind of authority over the petty princes of the neighbouring cities, Hebron, Jarmuth, Lachish, and Eglon, who obeyed his summons " to come up to him and help him, that they might smite is very obscure, (Ant. vn. iii. 2, a passage which has much perplexed the learned). St Jerome and others under- stood him to make it a compound of the Greek 'iepov, and the Hebrew D/t^> but Isaac Vossius defends him from this imputation. Lightfoot, after the Rabbies, derives it from the latter part of the name " Jehovah-jireA," (see Genesis xxii. 8, 14), and Shalem or Salem, (Genesis xiv. 18), by which name it is certainly called in Psalm ixxvi. 2, thus njnHEkBK&tfrft and he gives a curious reason for this compound, which need not be repeated, (Cent. Chorog. Matt. Praemissa, cap. xxi.). Whiston, who adopts this deri- vation, supposes the place to have been so called prophetically, after Abraham had received that oracle "Jehovah- jireh." " Since that expression, ' God will see,' or rather, ' God will provide himself a lamb for a burnt-offering,' is said to have been proverbial till the days of Moses," he thinks it probable that the word may denote "that God would provide peace, by that Lamb of God which was to take away the sins of the world." Note on Josephus, Ant. vii. iii. 2. It is not unlikely that, after the event referred to, the two patriarchs Melchizedek and Abraham would adopt this name with its pro- phetical signification, which was lost among the ungodly Canaanites, but retained and restored by the posterity of the patriarch. Reland adopts ttHT 1 U)VJ " hereditas, or pcssessio heredi- laria pads," (accounting for the loss of the t7 by assimilation) which gives a very good meaning, but wants the authority of the former. He is follow- ed by Raumer, Palestina, p. 333. The least satisfactory is that of Dr Wells, who supposes it to be composed of its two ancient names Jebus and Salem the 3 being changed into "1 euphoni gratia (Geog. of O.T. Pt.m. cap.ii.) or, as Professor Lee, who adopts the same theory, imagines, on account of the unsuitableness of the name, D^ty^ 1 * ("which would signify the ^trampling or treading down of peace") to the city which God himself had chosen for his own. Lexicon, sub voce. 1 The union of the kingly and priestly offices in one person would be no unusual thing in those times. CH. I.] THE HOLY CITY. 5 Gibeon, because it had made peace with Joshua and with the children of Israel." The site of Gibeon is still marked by the modern village of Geeb, distant about an hour from Jerusalem on the road to Jaffa, by Bethoron and Lydda ; and the plain " before" it (i. e. to the east of it) is well adapted for the encamp- ment of a large army. It was here that Joshua gained that decisive victory over the combined army, when the day was lengthened to complete it so that " the sun stood still in the midst of the heaven, and hasted not to go down about a whole day. 1 " The king of Jerusalem with his four allies was taken and put to death; but we do not read that his city, like theirs, fell into the hands of the conquerors at this time : indeed, it is difficult to determine the period of its cap- ture by the Israelites, or to which tribe it was allotted in the division of the land 2 ; since we read in one passage, " As for the Jebusites, the inhabitants of Jerusalem, the children of Judah could not drive them out, but the Jebusites dwell with the children of Judah at Jerusalem unto this day 3 ;" while the same is elsewhere said of the children of Ben- jamin, in the same chapter in which we find that " the children of Judah had fought against Jerusalem and taken it, and smitten it with the edge of the sword, and set the city on fire 4 ." The most satisfactory explanation of these apparent discrepancies is, that this city, being situated in the borders of the two tribes, was considered common to both ; and that during the long contest with the people of the land it experienced various fortunes, according to the strength of the contending parties : for while it would appear certain 2 Joshua xviii. 28, compared with xv. 8, would, without doubt, place it within the tribe of Benjamin ; but other passages as clearly assign it to 3 Joshua xv. 63. * Judges i. 21-8. The language of Josephus, note 3 in the next page, will not enable us to reconcile the passages Judah. See e. g. Psalm Ixxviii. 68. here referred to. THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. at least that soon after the death of Joshua it was in pos- session of the Israelites, it is no less clear that before the time of the Judges it was so completely in the power of Jebusites, as to have passed among the Israelites for "the city of a stranger," which would scarcely have afforded a secure shelter to one of their nation 1 . It was reserved for David to bring it under complete subjection. No sooner had he come into the undisputed sovereignty of the whole land, by the violent death of Ishbosheth the son of Saul, than he went to Jerusalem, and took the " castle" or " strong hold of Zion" out of the hands of the Jebusites 2 . It would appear that this fortress, which came now to be called "the City of David," was distinct from what we had before read of as Jebus, the latter being identical with that which Josephus designates as Acra, or the lower city, the former with that which he invariably speaks of as the upper market, of which the Jebusites had held undisputed possession until this time 3 . It occupied a very strong natural position, aided, no doubt, by artificial defences, and the garrison were so confident in its strength, that they contemptuously exposed the bund and the lame on their walls, as if such defenders would suffice to repel the attacks of the assailants 4 . This taunt served but to exasperate the besiegers, and the re- ward of the first command, offered by David to him who should first cross the natural fosse which surrounded the hill 5 1 Judges i. 7 ; xix. 10 12. 8 2 Sam. v. 6, &c. and 1 Chron. xi. 48. 3 Josephus says of the Israelites after the death of Joshua, " They be- sieged Jerusalem ; and when they had taken the lower city, which was not under a considerable time, they slew all the inhabitants ; but the upper city was not to be taken without great dif- ficulty, through the strength of its walls, and the nature of the place." Ant. Lib. v. ii. 2. He draws the same distinction between the lower city and the castle in vn. iii. 1. 4 So Josephus explains 2 Sam.v. 6. See Antiquities, vn. iii. 1. 8 T(S Sid Ttov inroKeifUfvaiv Q?apdy- ytav firi TIJV dxpav dvafldvri. K. \. Ibid. CH. I.] THE HOLY CITY. 7 and smite the Jebusites, called forth all the energies of the captains, so that the position was speedily carried and secured. David now took up his abode in the castle, and enlarged the city to a size worthy of the dignity of a royal city, and the seat of government. To effect this he united the fortress of Zion to the city of Jehus, by taking in the valley which had formerly divided them, and surrounding the whole with a wall 6 . The incorporated city would, thus consist of two hills, and an intermediate valley, which con- tinued to be called " the suburbs," as originally distinct from either part of the city. No sooner was David thus settled in his new capital, than he proposed to bring up the ark of God to Jerusalem, that it might thus become the religious as well as the civil head of his kingdom 7 . Ever since the time of the entrance of the children of Israel under Joshua, the ark had been without any fixed resting-place. It was parted from the tabernacle of the congregation soon after their miraculous passage of the Jordan, the latter abiding in the camp at Gilgal, while the former went before the army to their battles 8 . When the land was settled, the tabernacle was removed to Shiloh 9 , in the tribe of Ephraim, and the ark was deposited in it, and remained there until the time of Eli the priest, except that it was occasionally carried to the national assemblies of the children of Israel, to add solemnity to their meetings 10 . 6 1 Chron. xi. 8: "Aaiu<5?js Se Ti']v-re KOLTto iro\iv Tre/nXajSwv /cat Ttjv aKpav c fnd%t)v KdSvTiv iroXiv Trje 2u- /otas eovaav jueyaXtji/ eTXe." What- ever difficulty or ambiguity there may be in this historian's reference to Cady- tis in in. 5, it can be hardly doubted that in this passage by Cadytis is in- tended Jerusalem. It must have been early called by a name correspond- ing to that by which alone it is now known among the Arabs" el-Kuds," or " The Holy." See Neh. xi. 118 ; Isai. xlviii. 2 ; lii. 1 ; Matt. iv. 5 ; xx vii. 53. The passages from Isaiah prove that it was known to the Hebrews by the appellation of t^Tpn T}7 before the time of Josiah, the Arabic pro- nunciation of which would come nearer to the form which it assumes in Hero- dotus. Reland, Palestina, p. 668, &c., states the arguments against this view. See on the other side Raumer's Pales- tine, under the article " Jerusalem." A memorial of the 'Jtji/uth Sunday in Lent. * Jewish Proverb. 4 Psalm cxxix. CH. II ] THE HOLY CITY. 71 the son of Asamoneus, by whose name they are designated by Josephus, being better known in the Christian church by the appellation of " the Maccabees," a name of doubtful origin 5 . Mattathias was a citizen of Jerusalem, but re- sided with his five sons at a place called Modin, which appears to have been situated on a conspicuous eminence, where the mountain-region of Judaea descends to the great western plain of Sharon, and at no great distance from Lydda 6 . His indignation was aroused by the visit of the govern- ment officer, charged with the execution of the penal laws against the Jews. Being required to sacrifice as the royal edict directed, he not only refused to do so, but took summary vengeance on a fellow-citizen who apostatized in his presence, and put to death the officer and some of the soldiers. This was a signal for revolt; the family retired at once to the desert, where they were joined by many of their countrymen with their wives and children, who were compelled to take up their abode " in dens and caves of the earth." It is instructive to remark how far the principle of obedience to their heathen lords was carried by the Jews, 5 I am quite satisfied with the Rab- binical derivation from the initial lettersofExodusxv.il: 6 Some modern travellers have found Modin in the hill Soba, near Kuryat el Anub, about two hours from Jerusalem. , But this is contrary to Eusebius, in unto whose days the tomb of the Maccabees was still standing. He places it near to Lydda (Onomast). It must have been nearer to the sea than Soba, or the pyramids could not have served as a beacon to mariners. (Ant. xin. vi. 6). 1 Maccab. xvi. 4, &c., seems to place it a day's march from Jerusalem, and near the plain. Thee among the gods, O Lord ?" Reland proposes ^pQ the final letters of the names of the three patriarchs, Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. But this supposes that the Asmoneans were of the tribe of Dan, who are said to have carried this on their standard; all which is uncertain. 72 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. after their return from the captivity, and where the limit of submission was drawn. It has been already remarked, that the prophets who denounced the judgments of God on their countrymen, for their delay in rebuilding the temple, were far from encouraging them in opposition to the edict of the Persian king, for a decree had been enacted which was irreversible, not only allowing, but making ample provision for the work ; and the Jews were guilty of most culpable negligence in making no effort to procure its en- forcement. The temple being finished, they would not pro- ceed to the fortification of the city, until new powers had been granted; and in the same spirit they seem to have acted, in obedience no doubt to prophetic instruction, under the Persian and Macedonian domination ; desiring only the free exercise of their religion, and submitting to any other inconveniences which a state of submission involved. But when the liberty of their worship was violated, the observance of the law prohibited, idolatrous observances required and enforced, they had no alternative left but an appeal to arms, in support of their character as God's chosen people, and God blessed them in their national re- sistance. The precept of passive resistance teaching " obe- dience, and suffering where we cannot obey," is a precept of Him whose kingdom is not of this world ; whereas the lower economy that preceded, sanctioned, if it did not even command, the use of carnal weapons, for the extirpa- tion of idolatry and the establishment or defence of the true faith. Yet the fugitives, when they retired to the desert, seem not to have contemplated a systematic revolt from the Macedonian yoke, intolerable as it was; this course was forced upon them by the measures of their adversaries. But of the exploits of these noble champions, during the protracted struggle for the law of their God, such only CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 73 can be noticed as relate to the recovery of the capital and the re-establishment of the temple services. This was ef- fected by Judas, the third son of Mattathias, after a series of successes against the superior forces of the Syrian king, who spared no pains to reduce the country to subjection. The command of the Jewish forces had been committed to him by his dying father, twelve months after the outbreak of the revolt, and the perfect unanimity among the brothers of this devoted family is a token that the high principle by which they were actuated furnished a bond of union more powerful than those of friendship and of blood. His valour, directed by the prudent counsel of his second brother Simon, had already suppressed the idolatrous practices in many parts of the land, and the terror of his arms, which were directed with unsparing rigour against his apostate countrymen, more than counterbalanced the dread of foreign vengeance ; but nothing was effected in their estimation until the temple had been purified from its pollutions, and the daily sacrifice restored. This measure was no sooner resolved on than executed. He allowed no time to be wasted in useless lamentations over the sad spectacle of desolation which awaited them in the hallowed precincts. Having appointed a detachment to occupy the garrison in the citadel, that they might not interfere with the work of restoration, he vigorously set his hand to the pious labour ; and exactly three years after the interruption of the service, the lamps lighted in the candlestick, incense smoking on the altar of incense, the shew-bread set in order on the table, and the sacrifices burning on an altar of unhewn stones, declared the restoration of the temple-worship, and rewarded the zealous loyalty of the warrior-band. An annual commemoration of this day was appointed, and the feast of dedication was honoured by our Saviour himself 74 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. in the days of his flesh 1 , and is still observed in the Syna- gogue as the Feast of Lights. The next care of Judas was to rebuild the city-walls, which he further strengthened with towers, and to fortify a strong position on the borders of Idumea, which might serve, not only as a protection to the frontier, but also as a place of refuge in the event of another expulsion from the city. The restoration of the Jews to a state of independence was a signal for a general assault of their inveterate enemies on ah 1 sides, and the tabernacles of the Edomites and the Ishmaelites, the Moabites and the Hagarenes, the Philis- tians, with them of Tyre, were again confederate against the chosen people. But the God of Abraham was among them still as the Lord of hosts, and his presence secured them the victory. The Idumeans and the Amorites, in the south, had been already vanquished, when Judas learnt that the northern division of the country was endangered by the inhabitants of the coast, and that large hostile forces of the Arabians were assembled in Gilead. Having detached his brother Simon to prosecute the war in Galilee, he crossed the Jordan with Jonathan, leaving Judaea in charge to two of his officers, directing them on no account to hazard an engagement during his absence. The neglect of this salutary counsel involved them in a defeat, attended with considerable loss, while the valiant brothers were entirely successful in their respective expe- ditions, and Judas returned in time to repair the damage occasioned by the rashness of his generals. But the presence of the Macedonian garrison in the citadel contiguous to the temple, was a constant source of 1 John x. 22. CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 75 annoyance to the worshippers at Jerusalem, and Judas now resolved to direct all his efforts to its expulsion; he ac- cordingly formed the siege of the castle, and erected bul- warks and engines of war against it. The renegades, who had good reason to apprehend the vengeance of their in- jured countrymen, should they become masters of the place, effected their escape by night, and flying to Antioch, re- presented the dangerous position of the small force at Jeru- salem. Eupator had now succeeded his father Epiphanes, who had died a death of dreadful torment, while contemplating, in Persia, a repetition of the atrocities which he had com- mitted on the Jews ; and the Christian will feel little dif- ficulty in choosing between the account of the Jewish writer, who ascribes the visitation to the slow but certain vengeance of that Majesty which had there been violated, and the heathen historian, who refers it to the sacrilege on the temple of Diana which he was then meditating. In- censed at the intelligence communicated by the fugitives, the young king raised a large army consisting, according to the Jewish account, of 100,000 infantry, 20,000 cavalry, and 32 elephants for the subjugation of Judaea. After an engagement, which cost Judas the life of his brother Eleazar, who perished in a deed of heroic daring, he re- tired to Jerusalem, and defended himself in the temple, where he was attacked by the enemy and reduced to the last ex- tremity, by the failure of his stores and the consequent deser- tion of many of his followers. At this critical juncture intelli- gence was brought to Eupator, that a formidable rival, who had risen in Persia, was threatening his throne at Antioch, and he was compelled to conclude a peace with the Jews on most advantageous terms to the latter. He demolished, how- ever, the fortifications of the temple, and carried away 76 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. Menelaus the author of all the calamities which had be- fallen the Jews, among whom he had exercised the office of high priest for the last ten years. He was subsequently put to death ; and the dignity was conferred by the Syrian general on Alcimus, a member of another family, while Onias, the rightful successor, took refuge in Egypt, where he procured permission to build a temple at Heliopolis, which attained considerable celebrity. But the Jews were not destined long to enjoy the peaceful fruits of the liberty for which they had so nobly struggled. Demetrius, the son of Seleucus Soter, who had been deprived of his throne, by his uncle Antiochus Epi- phanes, having returned from Rome to Syria, succeeded in wresting the kingdom out of the hands of his cousin Eupator, soon after the latter had obtained the mastery of his rival, Philip. At the instigation of Alcimus and other renegade Jews, he lost no time in sending his ge- neral Bacchides, and subsequently Nicanor, to curb the growing power of Judas. Neither fraud nor force were spared for the accomplishment of this design ; but the watch- ful providence of God enabled his servants to guard against both. The blasphemy of Nicanor was visited by a signal defeat, in which he lost his life, and Alcimus was suddenly smitten by God while meditating innovations in the temple at Jerusalem, and died soon after, when the high-priesthood was conferred on Judas by the election of the people, and the command of the army devolved on his brother Simon 1 . The short interval of peace which followed on the route 1 The death of Alcimus and elec- tion of Judas to the high priesthood is related by Josephus, but there is no notice whatever of it in the Maccabees, which records the death of Alcimus after that of Judas; but as Josephus seems to have had the authority of the public documents preserved in the archives at Rome, he was probably better informed on this point. CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 77 of Nicanor's army, was seized on by Judas to form an alliance which might hereafter be advantageous to his country. The Romans, who had been for some years extending their influence in the East, would naturally be averse to the pro- ceedings of Demetrius, which were so opposed to their policy, that they had twice rejected his petition to be restored to his father's throne. His escape from Rome, and his suc- cesses in Syria, must have incensed his masters greatly, and prepared them to entertain with favour the offer of alliance with a nation in open hostility to him. But the treaty was of little present advantage to the Jews, who were left to their own resources, when their country was again invaded by Bacchides with a numerous host. The warrior-priest exchanged the tiara for the helmet, and marched to confront his old enemy, whom he engaged with very unequal forces. On the first assault he completely routed the right wing of the enemy, but pursuing his ad- vantage too hotly, he was surrounded by the unbroken left wing, and after a valiant defence, fell, with many of his followers. His dead body was given up to his bro- thers, and honourably buried at Modin, where a stately sepulchre was afterwards erected, which was still to be seen in the fourth century of the Christian era. In the incessant struggles which agitated Syria during the long and dubious contentions of the various aspirants for the throne of that country, the aid of the warrior- princes of the house of Mattathias could not but be eagerly sought by the rival parties, and large bribes were offered hi the form of immunities from taxes and other civil and religious privileges, to attach them to their opposite in- terests 2 . It would be difficult for a politician to ascertain 2 Ant. xni. i. &c. 78 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. by what principle the Jewish leaders were governed in their conduct to their different suitors ; but perhaps not dif- ficult for a diplomatist to justify such inconsistency as was necessary to keep them in favour with the dominant party, as fortune shifted from one side to the other. The successes of Jonathan, who succeeded his brother Judas in the high-priesthood and supreme command, were very brilliant in many campaigns ; and he was highly ho- noured by the pretender Alexander Bala, and his father-in- law, Ptolemy Philometor, the king of Egypt. On the death of Alexander, he conferred singular services on Demetrius, and was rewarded with base ingratitude instead of the princely honours which had been promised. At length, during the ascendancy of the son of Alexander, or rather of his general Trypho, who used his sovereign as a step- ping-stone to his own exaltation, he was taken prisoner by treachery, and basely murdered. His brother Simon succeeded as high priest and com- mander-in-chief, and for him it was reserved to reap the fruits of all the deeds of noble daring exhibited by his heroic family. He freed his people altogether from the Macedonian yoke after they had worn it for 170 years, and was written in the contracts and public records, "Be- nefactor and Ethnarch of the Jews." One signal service of immense importance was, the reduction of the garrison in the tower at Jerusalem, which had been a thorn in the side of the Jews since its erection by Antiochus Epi- phanes. Occupying a commanding position on the very mountain of the temple, the worshippers were perpetually exposed to their observation, or even to interruption, and very persevering had been the efforts of Judas and Jona- than to dispossess their enemies of this post, which served as a rallying place for their discomfited legions. Failing to CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 79 accomplish this, Jonathan had converted the siege into a blockade, by building a wall in the midst of the city to shut off the garrison 1 from the market, so as to reduce them by famine. The same plan was pursued by Simon, with better success, and the garrison was forced to capi- tulate 1 . The account given by Josephus of the proceedings of Simon on the evacuation of this fortress by the Mace- donians, is singularly at variance with that of the author of the first book of Maccabees 2 ; the latter relating that it was by him converted into a fortress for the temple, and much strengthened, and afterwards inhabited by himself and his troops, while the former asserts that it was levelled with the ground, and the very mountain on which it stood removed with incredible labour. An attempt will hereafter be made to reconcile these conflicting statements. At present it will be sufficient to remark, that the tower Baris, after- wards called Antonia, soon afterwards occupied nearly the same site, and was probably commenced by Simon, and finished by his son Hyrcanus. The peace and prosperity enjoyed by the Jews under the mild reign of Simon, is very poetically described in the book of Maccabees, and we seem now first to read the ful- filment of the prophecies relating to their restoration from the Babylonish captivity ; for " then did they till their ground in peace, and the earth gave her increase, and the trees of the field their fruit. The ancient men sat all in the streets, communing together of good things, and the young men put on glorious and warlike apparel. He made peace in the land, and Israel rejoiced with great joy ; for every man sat under his vine and fig-tree, and there was none 1 1 Mac. xiii. 49, &c. Comp. Josephus, Ant. xin. vi. 7. 2 Ibid. 80 THE HOLY CITY. PART I. to fray them 1 ." These halcyon days he sought to perpe- tuate by renewing the alliances with the Romans and Lacedaemonians which his brothers had formed, and by strengthening the defences of the temple, the city, and the country, which they had not neglected : and though his latter days were disturbed by another invasion from Syria, yet through his own vigour, which was noway abated, and that of his sons, he defeated his enemies, and returned covered with laurels to Jerusalem 2 . But none of the sons of Mattathias were to be allowed a tranquil end ; he was treacherously murdered by his son-in-law Ptolemy at a feast at Jericho, where his wife and two of his children fell into the assassin's hands. John, surnamed Hyrcanus, his third son, was happily not present; he was informed of a plot against his life, and effected his escape to Jerusalem, where being ap- pointed to succeed his father, he sought to avenge the treachery of Ptolemy, and besieged him in a fortress, to which he had retired. Here the vengeance threatened to his relatives, and the cruel tortures inflicted on his mother in his sight, while with heroic firmness she exhorted him to the attack, shook his courage. His heart failed him, and the siege was protracted until the Sabbatic year led him to abandon it. Ptolemy then murdered his captives, and fled from the country. Hyrcanus was scarcely settled in his principality, when the king of Syria, indignant at the defeat of his general, marched in person against him, and after ravaging the country, shut him up in Jerusalem, which he then sur- rounded with seven encampments, but was at first deterred 1 1 Maccab. xiv. 8, &c. 2 1 Maccab. xv. xvi. Josephus only relates that Simon himself march- ed in person against them, vii. 3. CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 81 from an assault by the strength of the walls. We read on this occasion that the enemy, as usual during a siege, suffered greatly from drought, although they were at last relieved by a seasonable shower 1 ; while we never read of the besieged being in want of water, often as they have been reduced to extremity by famine. The northern quarter of the city was the weakest point in its fortifi- cations, owing to the wall standing here on even ground 2 , and here Antiochus cut a double trench, deep and wide, and erected a hundred lofty towers to force the wall The besieged meanwhile were not idle ; they made many spirited sallies, and fell upon their unguarded enemies, and having killed many, retired within their walls in security. The danger of famine at length forced Hyrcanus to the necessity of excluding from the city such as were unfit for war. These wretched beings wandered about between the city walls and the works of the enemy, and many died miserably of famine. The survivors were received again into the city on occasion of the feast of Tabernacles, which afforded a breathing-space in the siege, and led to the ul- timate adjustment of a treaty. Hyrcanus had requested a truce of seven days to celebrate the solemnity ; he had a generous enemy to deal with, the pious, not the illustrious Antiochus, who not only granted what was asked, but sent in a magnificent sacrifice to do honour to the festival bulls with gilded horns, an abundance of sweet spices, and cups of gold and silver for the sacred services. The king of Syria had been recommended by those 1 This is one of the two notes of astronomical time given by Josephus. This drought and shower occurred at the setting of the Pleiades, which would be, at that period, about February, the 6 time of the latter rain in Judaea. 2 KaTCt Se TO fiopetov /ue'pos TOV Teixpvs, ca6' o Gvvefiaivfv UVTO KOI eiriireSov elvai, trvpyows ai/a3 57- and compare Josephus, J. W. vi. iii. 4. * J. W. vi. ix. 3. 8 Ibid. viii. 2. 4 Ibid. ix. 2. Compare v. iii. 1. and xiii. 7- See also n. xiv. 3. where we find 3,000,000 present at the Pass- over. 8 Ibid. vi. ix. 3. and see the fright- ful statement, v. xiii. 7 CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 119 the outer wall of Agrippa, was thirty-three furlongs 6 , and the wall of circumvallation erected by the Romans, thirty- nine 7 . But Josephus himself observes, that the city was crowded with inhabitants when encompassed by the Roman armies 8 , and the expansive powers of cities on festive oc- casions is well known, and would still be more felt among Orientals, owing to the simplicity of their mode of living, and their disregard for what is understood by the comforts and delicacies of civilized society in the west. The rest is soon told : a few who had endeavoured with desperate hardihood to break through the Roman lines, were defeated in the attempt 9 ; such as had retired to the sub- terranean hiding-places were starved or hunted out 10 . Among the former was the tyrant John, who was doomed to per- petual imprisonment. Simon, the leader of the opposite faction, succeeded in evading detection until Titus had re- tired. On the capture of the upper city, he had withdrawn to a sewer with some of his most trusty adherents, and a party of stonecutters, with a supply of provisions, hoping to undermine a passage from the city. Their provisions failed before they could accomplish their purpose, and he was forced to surrender himself to the garrison in the temple-inclosure. He was sent to Titus in chains, reserved for the triumph, and then put to death 11 . The city was wholly demolished except the three towers of Hippicus, Phasaolus, and Mariamne 12 , and so much of the western wall as would serve to protect the legion left there 6 Ibid. v. iv. 3. 7 Ibid. v. xii. 2. " IIoXu Se TOVTO Tr\^6os e^taQev (TuXXe'yexai, TOTS ye juiji/ uitnrep ets eipK-rijv UTr6 TJ/S ei/iapjue'i/tjs irav a-v- i/eicXei'i70t) TO eflvos, o iro- Xe/uos TI\V TroXtv dvSpiov 6'x7, K. T. \. In Lib. iv. cap. xi., Euse- bius says that Hegesippus came to Rome during the presidency of Anice- tus in that see, and remained until Eleutherius was made bishop : but Hegesippus himself, whose words he quotes, (cap. xxii. of the same book), says only that he stayed at Rome until Anicetus' time, whose deacon Eleu- therius then was. He probably came in the time of Pius, who presided from 156 to 165 ; Anicetus till 173 ; Soter to 177; Eleutherius till 192 A. D. 4 Hist. Eccles. iv. xxii. 124 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. of St James is well known, but cannot be too frequently repeated 1 . This blessed apostle had gained for himself, even among the unbelievers, the surname of " the Just," by his unblamable life of mortification and constant prayer. The faith was widely propagated by his unwearied zeal, so that " many myriads of the Jews believed 2 " by his means. But the evil passions of the more zealous of the Pharisees were aroused, and taking advantage of a short vacancy in the government, they resolved on an attempt to induce him to apostacy. He was placed in an exalted position in the temple on the Feast of the Passover, and required to persuade the assembled multitude against the Messiahship of the Lord Jesus. He availed himself of the opportunity of bearing testimony to the truth of it; proclaiming aloud His session at the right hand of power, and His future advent in the clouds of heaven. Many were convinced of the truth. The scribes and Pha- risees, maddened with disappointment and furious at the success of his preaching, resolved on instant vengeance. The holy man was cast down headlong from the battlements and stoned ; but he had space to fall upon his knees and pray for the pardon of his murderers, after the example and in the words of his Divine Master, saying, " I entreat thee, O Lord God the Father, forgive them, for they know not what they do." Wounded, bruised, and bleed- ing, his life was still whole in him, when one of the by- standers smote him on the head with a fuller's club, and terminated at once his sufferings and his life. This bar- barous murder is mentioned by the Jewish historian as the chief sin of his countrymen which filled the cup of vengeance to the brim 3 . 1 Hegesippus, apud. Euseb. Hist. Eccles. n. xxiii. Acts xxi. 20. 3 See Joseph. Ant. xx. ix. 1. for an account of the martyrdom of St James, but the words quoted by Eusebius as CH. III.1 THE HOLY CITY. 125 The time of this martyrdom is variously given by Eusebius, who in one passage of his History, and in his Chronicon, places it about the seventh year of Nero, agree- ably with Josephus ; while in another passage of the History he fixes it immediately before the destruction of Jerusalem 4 , in the first year of Vespasian, consistently with the Alex- andrian Chronicon. If the earlier date be adopted, it will be necessary to suppose a vacancy in the see for the space of eight or nine years, during which the troubled state of the city and country might prevent the church from proceeding to an election; but here again, whatever discrepancies there may be on a point of chronology, there is none at all as to the main point, that Simeon, the son of Cleopas and cousin of our Lord 5 , was chosen by universal consent to succeed St James in the episcopal office. This election took place at Jerusalem after the return of the church from Pella, and there were present at it such of the apostles and disciples of our Lord as were yet alive, and some of His kinsmen according to the flesh, of whom many still survived 6 . It would appear from this, that during the interval of their sojourn at Pella the Hebrew from Josephus, after Origen, to the above effect, are not found in the present copies of that writer. The words are : TO.VTO. 'louocuois, KOTO eicSiKntTiv 'laxiofiou TOV OIKULOV, S i|l> ddeXtfros 'It)(roD TOV \eyo/j.evov Xpio-Tov, eTreidtjirtp SmaioTaTov OVTOV OVTO. 'lovdaloi direKTfivav. Orig. Lib. I. cont. Celsum, p. 3, and Comment, in Matt. p. 233. I think the difficulty of reconciling the Jewish and Christian writers here has been unduly magnified by Valerius. Note in Euseb. 1. c. 4 Euseb. Hist. Eccles. Lib. HI. cap. xi., compared with n. xxiii. and the notes of Valerius. 5 Eusebius says that Cleophas was the brother of Joseph, which is com- monly taken to denote the relationship between the blessed Virgin, and Mary the wife of Cleophas. John xix. 25. See Euseb. ut sup., and Bishop Pearson on the Creed, pp. 175, 176. Lond. 1699, &c. 6 Hist. Eccles. HI. xi., and iv. xxii. from Hegesippus. 126 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. Christians of Jerusalem were as sheep without a shepherd 1 ; but the hand of Providence, so manifest in all that con- cerned them, would remind them of the watchful guardian- ship of the chief Pastor, under whose special protection they were safe. During the days of His earthly pilgrimage, when foretelling the destruction of Jerusalem, He had taken thought for His own flock, and had warned them, when they should see Jerusalem compassed with armies, to flee out of the midst of it 8 . The extraordinary retreat of Cestius, so perplexing to the Jewish historian 3 , was no doubt divinely ordered, to allow the elect an opportunity of escape; and, in obedience to our Lord's words, they availed themselves of it, and sought safety beyond the Jordan. And Josephus informs us, that many of the principal Jews also took this opportunity of escaping as from a ship on the point of sinking a remarkable simile, reminding us of the ark of safety provided in and for the church ! The interest attaching to the city which afforded an asylum to the believers under such circumstances, would invest its ruins with peculiar charms, and frequent and earnest were the inquiries of the writer and his fellow-traveller in that country in the summer of 1842. Eagerly did they catch at the sound of " Arbela 4 ," which might possibly 1 This seems to be confirmed by what is said in Eusebius, that the ora- cular revelation was made to approved persons among them by an angel in dreams, as Epiphanius writes. The announcement would probably (if we may conjecture) have been made to the bishop, as in Revelation i. ii. iii., had there then been one. See Euseb. Hist. Eccles. in. v., and Epiphan. Haeres. n. 7, and De Pond. etMens. 2 Luke xxi. 20, 21. 3 The words of the Jewish historian are very remarkable: eaivii?...ica- Tayvoiiy eir' ovSe/nia TrXiiyfj TWV c\Tri- dwit) -TrapaXoytoTcrra diro T>7 ircIXeo^ dveevev. J. W. II. xix. T, * No doubt identical with the Ar- CH. HI.] THE HOLY CITY. 127 be a corruption of the ancient name; and anxiously did they press on their jaded horses to the Christians' 1 Refuge, determined to find in the modern village those features by which they had learnt that Pella might be distinguished. Chief among these was the characteristic of "abundance of water 5 " and the reiterated inquiry, "Is there water?" had now a deeper meaning than usual, and denoted an in- tensity of mental thirst. Alas ! a tank of mud, black as ink, was the only answer to the question, the death-blow to our fondly cherished hopes of an interesting discovery. That same evening, proceeding up the valley of the Jordan, on its east side, we passed near an ancient site, where we were informed there were extensive ruins ; but as it was already dark we could not turn aside to examine them. From what I have since read in the travels of Captains Irby and Mangles, I am disposed to think that Pella must be looked for in this locality, now known among the natives as Tabathat Fahkil, which is thus described by those very intelligent gentlemen : " Here the ruins of a modern village stand on a hill bearing E. S. E. from the Acropolis of Bysan ; and in a plain to the west of it are the ruins of a square build- ing, with a semicircular end, which appears to have been surrounded by columns. On the east and south sides of the hill are considerable ruins of some ancient city, which must have been of great extent. The situation is beautiful, bela, mentioned by Eusebius, in the district of Pella. Strange that the very name of the capital of the dis- trict should have perished, while the town of inferior note is still so strikingly marked. 5 This is Pliny's description of its site, Nat Hist. v. 16. Other notes are these : It was a city of the Decapolis (id.) in Ccelo-Syria, (Ptolemy, ap. Steph.), in the northern extremity of eraea, (Josephus, J. W. in. 2), an Jabesh lay between it and Gerash. (Euseb. Onom. sub voc. 'Apiu>v, ) that unto the siege of the Jews in Adrian's time, there were in number fifteen succes- sions of bishops there;" and then he mentions other particulars from these old records respecting them, and gives their names and order ! This will be referred to below. The remarks of Dr Keith on the same subject, (Land of Israel, p. 189), have much the cha- racter of very ignorant and somewhat 130 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. It has been already remarked, that the election of St James's successor took place at Jerusalem soon after its destruction, and this fact has been shewn to rest, not on the bare authority of Eusebius, as has been pretended, but on the much earlier testimony of Hegesippus, whose oppor- tunities of collecting accurate information had been most favourable. The language of this same writer is also quoted ' for the martyrdom of St Simeon, which occurred in the reign of Trajan, when Atticus was president of Syria. On the accusation of certain heretics he was charged with being a son of David 2 and a Christian. Being subjected to various cruel tortures at the advanced age of 120 years, he bore them with such wonderful constancy for many successive days, that the president and those about him marvelled greatly. After which he glorified God by a death con- formable to that of his divine Master, whose patience he had followed. St Simeon was succeeded in the government of the Church at Jerusalem by one Justus 3 , of whose presidency we know little, except that at this time the church, which had hitherto maintained its virgin purity, became corrupted by heretical pravity; a curse which it owed to the disap- pointed ambition of an unworthy candidate for the Apostolic chair 4 . From this period to the reign of Adrian the records are very scanty 5 , preserving only the names and orders of the episcopal succession, but furnishing no particulars of the individual bishops ; it is sufficiently evident, however, that the presidency of each must have been of very short duration, vulgar railing, and do not pretend to argument. They are quite unworthy of him. 1 Hist. Eccles. in. 32. * Compare Hist Eccles. in. 20. 8 Euseb. Hist. Eccles. in. 35. 4 Hegesipp. apud Euseb. Hist. Eccles. in. 32, and iv. 22. 6 Id. iv. 5. CH. III. THE HOLY CITY. 131 from the fact of thirteen having held the perilous dignity, in the short space of 35 years 6 : and considering the excited state of the Jewish population during that interval, and their bitter hatred of the Christians 7 , it is far from im- probable that the rapid succession may be accounted for by martyrdom, since the believers would meet with no protection from the Roman governors, or perhaps even be sacrificed by them as a peace-offering to the turbulent Jews. But the time had now arrived when the infatuation of their enemies was to work an important revolution in their internal polity, the circumstances of which require a detailed notice 8 . It will be remembered, that on the destruction of Je- rusalem, Titus had spared at least the three towers on the northern wall of Zion, and part of the west wall, as a protection for the Roman garrison, whom he probably placed in the extensive palace of Herod, in the north- west angle of the upper city. The remainder of the city 6 Viz. from the 3rd cf Trajan, A.D. 101, when St Simeon was martyred, until about the 19th of Adrian, (A.D. 136), when Marcus was elected; for it is self-evident that the uncertainty of Eusebius as to the duration of the pre- sidency of the Jerusalem bishops, (see page 129, note 3 ), relates only to those who followed St Simeon, whose mar- tyrdom he places as above. 7 The Jews were always observed to be more hostile to Christians than the heathens in apostolic times. See the passages collected from the New Testament, with remarks, in Paley's Horae Paulinas, in Ep. Galat. No v. and 1 Thess. No. v., and the account of the martyrdom of St Polycarp, cap. 12. Patr. Apost. Vol. n. p. 592. Ed. Jacobson. The only thing that could tempt the Jews to the theatre was to assist in putting the Christians to death. 8 For the Jewish war under Hadrian, I am largely indebted to an interesting pamphlet on this hitherto perplexed subject, by Dr Miienter, late bishop of Copenhagen, brought within reach of the unlearned in a translation by Mr W. Wadden Turner, published in the third part of Dr Robinson's Bibliotheca Sacra, pp. 393 to 455, to which my references are made. 92 132 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. was wholly reduced to ruin, according to the testimony of Josephus; and it is very remarkable that, with this author in his hands, Eusebius should imagine that only half of the city was destroyed 1 . There can however be no question that, as soon as possible after the desolation, many Jews returned to settle on its ruins 2 , as we have seen that the Christians also did ; and accordingly when visited by the Emperor Adrian, probably in the 13th year of his reign 3 , he found a Christian church with a few houses in its vici- nity at the Coenaculum on Mount Zion, and not far distant seven synagogues of the Jews one of which remained even to the time of Constantine and the episcopacy of Maximus, as a tent in a vineyard. It was apparently at this time that the emperor conceived the idea of rebuilding the city, and left there his friend and kinsman Aquila, a native of Sinope in Pontus, and a pagan 4 , to superintend the work. The miraculous gifts which had been continued in the church on its return to Jerusalem after the deso- lation, convinced him of the truth of Christianity, and he was baptized, but being shortly after excommunicated for the practice of astrology, in which he persisted after fre- quent admonitions, he renounced the Christian profession, 1 Compare Joseph. J. W. vii. i. 1, and Euseb. Dem. Evan. vi. xviii. Yet liis language in the Theophania would seem to imply a complete deso- lation. See xviii. p. 247. Dr Muenter, p. 416. 8 A.D. 130. See Dr Muenter, ix. p. 411, who shews that he was in Pales- tine in that year. For this visit, how- ever, and its consequences, I follow Epiphanius, de Pond, et Mens. xiv. xv., except his dates. He makes Adrian visit Jerusalem 47 years after its destruction, i. e. A. D. 117, the first year of his reign. I am surprised that Dr MUenter has not made more use of this author : in the only passage in which he mentions him he misrepre- sents him sadly, and then sneers at him : xxiv. p. 448. He refers what Epiphanius writes of Aquila to Marcus the bishop. I cannot help suspecting that the translation is in fault, but have it not in my power to consult the original. 4 ;UfTa Se Ti}v fpi]fi. yap /ua^a'ptos 'A\eavdpos ev povpq yei/o/newos, fia- 156 THE HOLY CITY. [p.VKT I. of the church in that capital 1 . His is the bad notoriety of being the first to broach the blasphemous doctrine re- vived in these latter days by Socinus, of the simple humanity of our adorable Lord. All previous heresies relating to His Sacred Person had gone to the denial of His proper humanity ; Paul was the first to call in question His Divinity. The " pestiferous novelties " were condemned, as might be supposed, by universal consent and with extreme horror, and the bishop branded as a renegade " who had denied his Lord and his God, and kept not the faith which he formerly professed ; " being as vicious in his life as he was corrupt in his doctrine. After insidious promises of retractation, and various attempts at evasion, in the true spirit of here- tical sophistry, he was finally excommunicated 2 and deprived by the sentence of the synod, which was ratified by an imperial edict; the miscreant having appealed to the pagan power against the authority of the church ! On the death of Hymenjeus 3 , Zambdas entered upon the government of the church of ^Elia, and was shortly suc- ceeded by Hermon, the last of those before the Diocletian persecution, an era in the history of Palestine at which we have now arrived ; but the circumstances of which, as relating rather to the Church in general, than to Jerusalem in particular, will be but very briefly noticed in these pages. The peace and prosperity which the Church had for some years enjoyed, had, according to the testimony of Eusebius, fostered a spirit of carelessness and sloth, which loudly called for correction, and the unity of the body of Christ was torn by factions and unholy divisions 4 ; add to 1 Dionysius apud Euseb. Hist. Eccles. vn. xxiv. 2 Ibid. vn. xxiii. 3 Ibid, xxxii. 4 Euseb. Hist. Eccles. vui. i. CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 157 which, we may well suppose that the wrath of the great adversary of the Church would wax the more fierce " be- cause he knew that he had but a short time 5 ." It was in the nineteenth year of Diocletian's reign, the three hundred and fifth of the Christian era, that this terrible sifting began 6 . In the month of March, towards the feast of Easter, the first edict was published at Nicomedia, for the total demolition of the churches, for the degradation of such Christians as held any honourable appointments, and for enslaving such private persons as persisted in the profession of the gospel. Shortly after another prescript threw all the prelates of the Church in prison, and subjected to the most cruel tortures such as refused to sacrifice to idols. Then the persecution became general ; neither age nor sex was respected, and every refinement of cruelty that malice could invent was practised against the martyr-host. The dreadful enumeration may be spared ; the historian, who enters much into detail, declares that no expressions could describe the scenes. The West enjoyed comparative peace throughout, under the mild sway of Constantius and his son in Britain, but the eastern provinces were deluged with blood. Egypt and Palestine were distinguished above all others for the severity of the trial and the constancy of the sufferers ; and Eusebius, who was an eyewitness of the persecutions at Caesarea, has re- corded them in a separate work 7 . The tyrant Maximinus presided in person on several occasions at the bloody spec- tacles in this city 8 . The proto-martyr was a native of ^Elia 9 , but a servant of the church of Scythopolis ; nor do we read of any mem- s Rev. xii. 12. 6 Hist. Eccles. viu. ii., &c. 7 Martyrs of Palestine. 8 Cap. vi. 9 See the Passion of St Procopius in a note of Valesius to the martyrs of Palestine, cap. i. THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. bers of the church at Jerusalem being called to glorify God by their death at this time, except one venerable deacon of the name of Valens, whose knowledge of the holy Scrip- tures was so perfect that he could repeat whole pages of any part of the sacred volume from memory as accurately as if he had been reading from a book. This grey-haired saint was crowned with martyrdom in company with Pam- philus, a presbyter of the church of Caesar ea 1 , whose name is so well known in connexion with his affectionate disciple, who loved to associate it with his own as a surname. But there is a singular relation concerning one citizen, not of ^Elia, but of Jerusalem, which it will be proper to record, for several reasons. During the heat of the perse- cution, five Egyptians who had accompanied some of their brethren to the mines in Cilicia, while on their return to their own county, were apprehended at the gates of Cse- sarea and committed to prison ; the chief of these, in his examination before the judge, was questioned as to his name. He had assumed, instead of his pagan name, the appellation of one of the old prophets, to represent, as the historian writes, "that he belonged to the true and genuine Israel of God, those who are Jews inwardly." He was next questioned as to his country. " Jerusalem is my country," was the reply, meaning that Jerusalem of which St Paul speaks, " but Jerusalem which is above, is free, which is the mother of us all;" and "ye are come to mount Zion, and unto the city of the living God, the hea- venly Jerusalem." The judge, having never heard of such a city, was very inquisitive as to its situation, and tortures were applied to elicit the truth. The courageous martyr persisted in his declaration, and added moreover that " it 1 Martyrs of Palestine, cap. xi. CH. Ill .] THE HOLY CITY. 159 was their country only who were God's worshippers ; none but they should enter it, and it was situated eastward to- wards the sun-rising." No torments could shake his reso- lution, and he was delivered over to the executioner. The narrative is instructive as demonstrating, first, how entirely the very memorial of the ancient name of ^Elia had perished, when it was so strange to the Roman pro- curator of Palestine, that he thought it must be a city which the Christians were erecting in defiance of the go- vernment ; and secondly, as proving how fully the Christian's mind was imbued with the persuasion that the earthly type had been superseded by the heavenly reality. It was under the same idea that shortly after, when the Holy City had been adorned with churches and ren- dered illustrious as a Christian capital, it was called " the New Jerusalem ;" a name by which it is commonly known among church-historians from the period of the emperor Constantine, which will next demand our notice. The persecution had somewhat abated in violence in the eighth year 2 , owing to the manifest judgments of God on Galerius, who had been chiefly instrumental in instigating his colleagues to these barbarities ; and who when visited by a complication of most loathsome diseases, which termi- nated in his death, recalled these sanguinary edicts. But the effect of this decree was nullified by Maximinus 3 , who was still unsatiated with blood; and it was not until the tenth year that it wholly ceased. This blessed change was first effected by the successes of Constantine and Licinius against Maxentius in the west, and Maximinus in the east ; and the peace of the church was established on a firm basis by imperial edicts proclaiming universal toleration 4 ; and , a Hist. Eccles. vin. xvi. xvii. 3 Ibid. ix. i., &c. 4 Ibid. x. v. 160 THE HOLY CITY. FPART r. requiring the restoration of all the lands and property of the Catholic church which had been confiscated in former reigns. The privileges and immunities accorded to the church by the liberality of the first Christian emperor, and the blessed effects which speedily ensued, cannot here be dwelt on ; it will be enough to particularize that act which has invested Jerusalem with its chief interest from that time to the present; the recovery 1 of the Holy Sepulchre of our Lord, and the erection of the Basilica of the re- surrection. But it will be necessary to preface the narra- tive with some preliminary remarks. It is usual, when several historians differ one from another in their relation of the same event, to endeavour to reconcile the discrepancies, by considering how far the facts related by later writers may be merely amplifications of the earlier statements, and not to reject such additions until they are proved to be inconsistent with the records of the most credible witnesses. It would be difficult to assign any sufficient reason for departing from this mode of proceeding in the present case ; and there can be no doubt that, if a matter of only common interest were in question, the various facts recorded by the several historians might be woven into a connected narrative, which would approve itself to all as consistent and harmonious in all points of importance ; and this has been done by all writers on the subject until quite modern times; but because it happens to relate to a subject of the most intense interest, because especially the falsification of the facts would ensure a triumph over the whole Church Catholic, therefore it has 1 It is incorrect to speak of this as a discovery, and is virtually begging the whole question relating to a conti- nuous tradition. It is represented by KuNcbius simply as a recovery, and so I always speak of it. CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 161 pleased later writers, who are no friends to catholic truth, to magnify the variations and to set the accounts in the widest possible opposition one to another. It seems strange that it should not occur to them, that as Rufinus, Socrates, Sozomen, Theodoret, and others 1 , were quite as well informed as we can be as to what Eusebius had written on the subject, that they were in fact following his narrative ; therefore it is highly improbable that they would venture, under any circumstances, to contradict his statements, or even to make any important additions without some sufficient warrant ; for they were not so very far removed from the time of these transactions as to render it impossible for them to recover from other quarters some particulars which the earlier writer had failed to record. In any case it can be hardly safe for those who, after so long an interval as fifteen centuries, take upon themselves, with some confidence, to make important alterations in the narrative of Eusebius, to cavil at the additions of those who wrote little more than a century after that historian. For example ; Eusebius has most distinctly and repeatedly declared, both in his own words and those of Constantino himself, that the design to recover the Holy Sepulchre originated in the emperor's own mind, from a Divine impulse, and that the design was conceived long before it was carried into execution. A living writer has discovered that it was from beginning to end a work of " pious fraud," and that " it would not be doing injustice to the bishop, Macarius, and his clergy, if we regard the whole as a well-laid and successful plan for restoring to Jerusalem its former consideration, and elevating 1 Their dates of the main authori- ties are as follows : Eusebius, A.D. 33?. St Cyril, A.D. 347. St Chrysostom, A.D. 394. St Ambrose, A.D. 395. St Pauli- 11 nus, and St Sulpicius, and Rufinus, cir. 400. Socrates, Sozomen, and Theo- doret, dr. 440. 162 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. his see to a higher degree of influence and dignity 1 ." Now can the author of this shameful calumny, who has not only no authority whatever from antiquity for him but the express testimony of Constantino and Eusebius against him can he, with the slightest regard for consistency, imagine that the greater prominence given to St Helena, by the later writers, is irreconcilable with the fainter notice of Eusebius, or that their minuter details on some points are contradictory of this earlier author? Theirs are but ad- ditions he has ventured a positive counter-statement : let him choose which alternative he will give up his accusation against the bishop, which would be only charitable, or his objections to the credibility of the narrative grounded on its inconsistencies. . But are the variations from Eusebius so very material ? "All the writers of the following century relate, as with one voice, that the mother of Constantine was from the first instigated by strong desire to search out and discover the Holy Sepulchre and the Sacred Cross." Does Eusebius con- tradict this, or is he altogether silent on the subject? Is there indeed "not a word, not a hint, by which the reader would be led to suppose that the mother of the emperor had anything to do with the discovery of the Holy Sepul- chre, or the building of the church on the spot 2 ?" Let it be remembered that the object of Eusebius was to set forth the praises of his imperial patron, during his life- time and some years after St Helena's death ; what more natural than that he should dwell on the part which the emperor had taken in the work, rather than on the acts of i Bib. Res. ii. 80. * Bib. Res. ii. 14. Mr Newman goes so far as to say that Eusebius " is silent about St Helena's visiting Jeru- salem." Preface to Fleury, cxlix. Do I misunderstand him, or is it an over- sight ? CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 163 his deceased mother 8 ? Yet he does not obscurely intimate that much of the merit was due to her pious devotion. He records in terms of eulogy her pilgrimage to the holy places, and her veneration for the footsteps of our Saviour, which she there traced ; he mentions her erection and dedication of two churches to the God whom she had adored, one at Bethlehem, the other on Mount Olivet ; which the emperor soon afterwards adorned most magnificently with costly presents, by which at the same time "he immortalized the memory of his own mother, who had rendered so much good service to mankind 4 ." No doubt these last words will bear many interpretations, but it would at any rate not be forced to suppose that they refer to the main subject of the discourse, the recovery of the Holy Sepulchre, and the erection of the church over the Sacred Cave. The truth would seem to be that the two churches particularly specified as hers 5 were erected at her own charges, and only adorned by her son, whereas the . Church of the Re- surrection was built by a grant from the imperial treasury, according to the rescript addressed to Macarius, which Eusebius has preserved 6 . This rescript was written after the success of the attempt to recover the Sepulchre had been made known to the emperor ; and as St Helena must have remained some time in Palestine, for the erection and dedication of her two churches, if we may suppose that she was the bearer of the first imperial orders for the 3 See the concession of Dr Robin- son, Bib. Res. ii. 15. 16, which is however half retracted in a later publi- cation. * Vita Const. III. xli. /cat Tau-ra S& , Siaiiovi^iav TI}V See also xlii xlvii. 6 Yet these two churches, ascribed to her in the Life of Constantino, are attributed to the emperor himself in the Laudes. ix. The reason is very obvious. 8 Ibid, xxx xxxii. 112 164 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. demolition of the idol fane 1 , it may well be imagined that she would be assisting in the operations at Jerusalem with intense interest, and instigating the munificence of her son, who " had granted her power over the impe- rial treasures, to make use of them according to her own option 2 ." With regard to the success of these pious endeavours, much more will be said in a subsequent part of this work. According to the representation of the emperor and his historian, the Sacred Cave had been carefully concealed from sight for many years, by a large mound of earth, on the top of which was erected a temple to Venus ; nor does their language imply the slightest doubt that, on the demolition of the fane and the removal of the obstructions, the site would be recovered. The emperor's orders were not that any enquiry should be instituted, not that any search should be made, but simply that the temple should be levelled with the ground, and the earth carried away. This was done, and the Sepulchre came to light. Was it not a rea- sonable cause of amazement to those who witnessed it, that the pagans, when they sought to obliterate the memory of the spot, should have left the Sacred Cave entire ; and that notwithstanding so long concealment, it should come forth to light unharmed, presenting, as it were, a figure of the Resurrection, in its own recovery ? and will not this satisfy the strong language of the emperor's letter? Again, true it is that Eusebius does not mention the existence of any tradition of the erection of the temple, but this may be for one of two reasons, either because there was no such 1 Theodoret alone makes her the bearer of the second letters which fol- lowed the recovery, i. xviii. * See xlvii. ^Sij Se Kal Qijaavpiuv l'iini\ihti>n irapel'xe TT\V eov postquam Hadriano, de ruinis et cineribus in /Kliain suscitata est." p. 86 ad Eustach. Epitaph. Paula, Works, iv. Pt. 2, pp. 673, 4, Ed. Bened. CH. HI.] THE HOLY CITY. 167 over death. The first care was to adorn the Sacred Cave itself with all imaginable splendour, as the head of the whole work, and magnificent columns and other ornaments were profusely lavished upon it. Immediately to the west of the cave the rocky mountain presented an obstacle to the erection of the buildings in that quarter 4 , so that the church was necessarily placed east of the cave. The Basilica was not united under one roof with the Sepulchre, as is the present Greek church, which must however occupy part of the site of Constantino's magnificent structure, which stood in a spacious court inclosed with porticoes on three sides and paved with polished marble 5 . The church itself was as rich as gold could make it. It was entered by three gates at the east, opposite to which was the place of the holy table, in a recess built in the form of a hemisphere, surrounded by columns with silver capitals, equal in number to the apostles of our Lord 6 . A double cloister adorned the church on either side. The grand entrance to the court Was from the east ; and the Propyla3um was mag- 4 This is remarked by Dositheus. *E)(ei o vaos TOW dyiou T(iov kafd /j.ev TI}V Suariv, Kid TO elvai o/oos, fjiovov TOV Tol\ov auTov, ii. i. 7. Which is quite agreeable with fact and with the testimony of Eusebius, who places the Basilica of Constantine to the east of the cave. Those who have visited the convent of St Sabba, and remem- ber the position of that saint's tomb and the church, will understand the arrangement of the sepulchre and church at Jerusalem. I ha^e to thank M. Mouravieff for the illustration. 5 The Atrium is described in xxxv. 6 xxxvi xxxix. The language of Eusebius leaves no room to doubt that the general rule of placing the Holy Table to the east was departed from in this instance. It was placed nearest to the Holy Cave. This is not the case in the present Greek church. It is, as usual, at the east end. As the B7jua in the church of St Sophia at Constantinople was also in the form of a hemisphere, (according to Procopius) a sight of this has made the descrip- tion of Eusebius much more intelli- gible. It is a subject for deep' regret that the treatise of Eusebius on the church at Jerusalem, affixed to his life of Constantine, has not been preserved. See Vit. Const, iv. xlvi. THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. nificently adorned in a manner calculated to excite the admiration and curiosity of the pilgrim, as he approached the sacred precincts 1 . - The venerable Helena, who shares with her son the glory of this undertaking, was not permitted to witness its consummation. Soon after its prosperous commencement, which she encouraged by her presence and forwarded by her prayers, she had set out on her return to Nicomedia 2 . Her whole progress was marked by acts becoming a Christian empress. All who came within her reach experienced her munificence; but especially the poor, the naked, the des- titute, excited her sympathy, and were relieved by her bountiful alms. She fed the hungry, covered the naked with garments, set at liberty the captives, released convicts from the mines, befriended the weak against their more powerful oppressors, restored exiles to their homes and families. Constant in her attendance at church, modest and decent in her apparel, and exemplary in her deportment, she scorned not to mix with the vulgar crowd in the mean- est chapels of the poorest towns. Such was the person whom modern Christians can pity and despise, whose name they dare to cast out as evil, and to stigmatize in language which it were a sin to repeat: nothing can excuse her interest in the holy places, and her pious care for the houses 1 Dr Robinson seems to have en- tirely mistaken the form of this edifice, when he suppose* the hemisphere to have been something in the shape of "a semicircle in front of the whole building," separate from it, and at some distance towards the east. It is evident that the hemisphere must have formed part of the church, for it is said to have reached to the top or roof of the building. This could have been nothing else than the apse, which was usually called in this as well as in other Greek churches, "the Hemi- sphere," the upper part being of a hemispherical form, and the lower part lined with columns. Eusebius does not say a Hemisphere, but TO ilHiovres oelv oexOrivai'Apfiuv' KTr;/oos \6yiov irXtj/aa)- ()ia-t)Ti. Socr.-it. Hist. Eccl. in. xx. 2 Socrates, u. xxxiii. This revolt is placed in A.D. 339, by Theophanes, as quoted by Reland, Palest, p. 1000. He adds that the Jews had murdered many Greeks and Samaritans. 8 They are still called in Constan- tino's letters to the churches, Euseb. V. C. in. xviii., " that most hostile multitude of the Jews." Mq&y tol- vvv et>uai/at, Me i/t/ojcras, FaXeXate. Theod. in. xxv. This must, I pre- sume, be one of the " calumnies" or " legends" which, we are told, " may now be silently despised :" at least by such writers as Gibbon. Vol. iv. p. 203, n. 99. 3 Socrates, iv. ii., &c. CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 177 was condemned, and the Nicene faith reasserted by general consent 4 . In the eighth year of this reign he died, be- queathing to the church a precious legacy of orthodox doctrine, in his admirable catechetical lectures, which toge- ther with his sufferings for the maintenance of the faith therein expounded, have entitled him to canonization as a confessor and doctor of the church. No notice has yet been taken of the luminous cross which is said to have appeared in the heavens at the begin- ning of St CyriTs presidency; but the story is too interesting to be passed over in silence, and too well authenticated to be lightly rejected as fabulous. The account is given in a letter purporting to be written on this occasion by the bishop of Jerusalem to the emperor Constantius, and is as follows 5 : " During the holy days of Pentecost 6 , at the third hour of the day, in the second year of his epi- scopate, (May 7th, 351), there appeared a luminous cross of enormous dimensions over the holy Golgotha, extending even to the Mount of Olives 7 : it was extremely brilliant, surpassing the light of the sun ; and was seen not by one or two individuals, but by the whole city. It was no passing phenomenon, but continued visible for several hours. The effect on the believers was to inspire them with fear 4 Ibid. v. viii. The historian here says that St Cyril had retracted and assented to the " Homoousian" Creed. But the time of his retractation does not appear. It is evident from his writings that he avoided the word, as did many orthodox fathers. It is of course no proof that he denied the doctrine involved in it. Dositheus defends his orthodoxy from imputa- tion, ii. xi. 2. 5 Vid. Sti. Cyrilli Epist. ad Const. 12 ch. iv. ; and on the genuineness of the letter, the authorities referred to in Mr Newman's Essay, cxlviii. n. o. I adopt his words in the text. 8 Fleury remarks that this ex- pression does not signify the days following Whit-sunday, but the in- terval between Easter and Pentecost, according to the then mode of reckoning. Histoire, Lib. xui. cap. v. 7 It is said to have been five stadia in length, and of proportionate width. 178 THE HOLY CITY. 'ART I. mingled with joy : the churches were thronged not only by Christian worshippers, but by Jewish and heathen candidates for the sacrament of initiation, convinced of the truth of the church's faith by this symbol of their salvation in the heavens." Men are very inadequate judges of the secret purposes of the Almighty, albeit they do take upon them- selves to determine with some confidence under what circumstances He shall manifestly interfere with the order of the universe which His wisdom has been pleased to es- tablish ; as if it were not far more rational, not to say more reverent, to expect that in the depths of His counsels some occasions might be found which we are wholly incom- petent to appreciate. Without pretending then to fathom the reasons of this phenomenon, a word may be said of the historical evidence, which it is properly within the province of human reason to estimate and examine. The genuineness of St Cyril's letter has been questioned by later critics, though without good reason ; for the story does not rest exclusively on his testimony, but is supported by all the evidence that any occurrence of that date can be expected to shew. It is recorded not only by three historians 1 , the general credibility of whose narratives is universally admitted, but it is further noted in two ancient chronicles 2 . The variations of these writers are exactly such 1 Socrates, 11. 28, apud fin.; Sozo- men, iv. 5 ; Philostorgius apud Pho- tium, in. 2ti. The narrative of Sozo- men (A.D. 440) agrees entirely with that of St Cyril given above, to whose letter he refers. Socrates, writing at the same time, is more brief and ob- scure. He says that the sign appeared in the east, when Constantius was en- tering Antioch, but leaves it uncertain to whom it appeared. Philostorgius says that it appeared at Jerusalem, and was seen by the conflicting armies of Constantius and Magnentius, and adds, that the cross was surrounded by a rainbow. 2 The Chronicle of Idacius says that this took place on the 3rd of the calends of February, on the 28th of the month, but the Alexandrian Chronicle, CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 179 as would indicate that their information was derived from independent sources, and so would serve to corroborate, rather than to invalidate, the proof of the main outline of the history 3 . St Cyril was succeeded in the episcopate of the church at Jerusalem by John, the second of that name, who is chiefly known to history by the representations of Epipha- nius and St Jerome 4 , with whom he was at variance on points both of discipline and of faith. It is no pleasing task to expose the infirmities of great and good men, as were the venerable bishop of Cyprus and the learned monk of Bethlehem; but an impartial judge can scarcely fail to de- termine, even from their own writings, that the bishop of Jerusalem was treated by them with less consideration than was due to his office. Indeed, the first act of hostility ap- pears to have been a clear invasion of his diocesan juris- diction, unjustifiable by the ancient canons, which had deter- mined the limits of such authority. This was the ordination of St Jerome's brother Paulianus, for the service of the monastery at Bethlehem. This ordination was performed by Epiphanius, then on a visit in the country, in a convent situated within the diocese of Eleutheropolis, which was the bishop's defence, when accused of a violation of the canon by John of Jerusalem. But the plea appears insufficient, agreeably with St Cyril, &c., refers it i the east of that town. In the year pre- to the nones of May, about the day of Pentecost. See Valesii Annot. in So- crat. 1. c. 3 1 can as little explain or question the fact, as 1 can the following. On ceding, a dark cross was observed, for many successive nights, in the heavens, at Jerusalem, as if the part were void of stars. I have both these from an eyewitness of undoubted veracity and the morning after the bombardment of sobriety. Acre in the year 1839, before sun-rise, ! 4 For this controversy, see St Je- coruscations, in the form of hierogly- rome's Letters, LX LXII. The first phics, were seen by the crews of the | is a translation of Epiphanius. English vessels over the mountains to ' 122 180 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. insomuch as Bethlehem was within the limits of the latter see at that period, and the services of the person ordained were designated to that church. To this indeed it was re- plied, that the Latin monks were not subject to the eastern bishop l ; but an exemption so inconsistent with the peace of the Church, as subsequent experience has fully proved, was not recognized at that period; nor was it strange that such an invasion of his diocesan rights should excite the indignation of one of warm temperament, as John appears to have been. But although there seems to be little doubt that the strife between the opposite parties was kindled by this act, yet it was unquestionably much fomented by doctrinal dif- ferences, on which St Jerome lays the greatest stress. But his intemperance and evident want of candour towards his adversary, hi this as in other cases, will dispose an im- partial reader to believe that he has not the full case be- fore him. John was suspected of the errors of Origen; Epiphanius, in a sermon preached in the church of the Resur- rection, not only opposed these errors, but reflected in a marked and uncalled-for manner on the bishop, as though he were involved in them. John, nettled, as was not un- natural, at being thus dishonoured in his own cathedral church, by a foreign bishop, present only by sufferance, vindicated himself in a sermon wherein he proposed a sum- mary of orthodox belief. He probably exhibited undue warmth and violence in his gesture and address; but he need not have deserved the imputation cast upon him by 1 " In monasterio fratrum, et fra- truin peregrinorum qui provincia nihil tuae deberent." Epiphanius, 1. c. This seems to refer to Bethlehem, and to be another plea from that urged by St Jerome. The Benedictine editors deny the genuineness of the last part of this letter, which they find inconvenient : one would feel disposed to suspect an interpolation here. CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 181 St Jerome, as if he had considered one discourse sufficient for a full exposition of the Catholic faith. Indeed, the very charge shews the spirit in which the controversy was carried on ; nor can the bishop of Jerusalem be reasonably blamed because he disputed the competency of a Latin presbyter, who claimed exemption from his jurisdiction, to act on a commission of enquiry into his orthodoxy ! On the whole, although John's faith does not appear to have been free from all admixture of the errors with which he was charged, and although his sympathy with the heresiarch Pelagius at a later period, is another blot upon his memory, yet the terms of unqualified commendation in which he is mentioned by several eminent contemporaries of unquestioned orthodoxy 2 , allow us ground to hope that the most serious accusations preferred against him were destitute of any solid founda- tion 3 . It will be unnecessary to follow in detail any further the history of the church of Jerusalem, whose annals from this period are chiefly occupied with pilgrimages and the monastic lives of those numberless ascetics who had fixed their residence in the neighbourhood of the Holy City. Something however must be said on both these subjects. From the period of its adornment by Constantino, Je- rusalem had become, in a greater degree than before, an object of religious attraction to all Christendom. It was not to be expected that all the pilgrims would be actuated by a spirit of true devotion : many would follow the prevailing 2 e. g. Anastasius of Rome and St John Chrysostom, Theodoret, and St Basil of Seleucia, may be likewise mentioned. 3 He is charged with having coun- tenanced or connived at the devStruction of the monasteries at Bethlehem, by the Pelagians. The interference of Innocent the First, of Rome, on this occasion, was a prelude to the ag- gression of the Papacy of later times. THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. fashion from motives of curiosity or the desire of diversion ; and the spirit of the world and of the flesh would vitiate and corrupt the morality of the city subject to a continual influx of visitors of every description. The following pas- sages from two celebrated fathers of the fourth century, will shew how widely the abuse had spread, when they applied all their eloquence to correct it. St Gregory of Nyssa 1 , who had proceeded to Jerusalem after the Council of Antioch, (A.D. 370), with the charitable design of pacifying the churches, distracted by the Arian controversy, had there witnessed the grievous scandals to which the rage for pilgrimages had given occasion, and on his return to his diocese he addressed a letter to a Cap- padocian priest on this subject. He sets forth that the sacred writings do not reckon a pilgrimage to Jerusalem among the number of good works, and that such journeys conduce not to virtue, and make nothing to heaven : that purity and sanctity are required both of men and women, which are best promoted by the study of wisdom in re- tirement and solitude : that many duties are neglected in the bustle and confusion of a hasty journey, which is espe- cially dangerous to female modesty ; for extreme licentious- ness prevails in many hostelries and cities of the East, which corrupt the ears, the eyes, and the heart. If Jerusalem were more enriched with grace than other countries, it might be expected that its inhabitants should be less wicked ; but, so far as he had observed, the very contrary was the fact; there was no place more addicted to crimes of the blackest dye. Why then, it might be asked, had he resorted 1 1 here follow Fleury, Ilistoire du Chriiitifinisme, Lib. xvn. cap. xlix., and Poujoulat'st Ilistoire de Jerusalem, Vol. in. p. /. The letter is contained in Vol. ii. of St Gregory's works. CH. HI.] THE HOLY CITY. 183 thither ? To reform the churches of Arabia, and to con- verse with the chiefs of the holy churches of Jerusalem. But the journey had been conducted without neglect of religious duties, and was not necessary for the increase of his faith. Before he saw Bethlehem he believed that the Son of God had assumed flesh in the womb of a virgin ; he believed the resurrection before he saw the Holy Sepulchre ; and confessed the glorious ascension before he saluted the Mount of Olives. One only thing he had learnt on the journey, that his own country was far more holy than foreign lands. It is not by change of clime that we shall come to God, but rather He will come to us, where- soever we be, if our soul be made meet for His habitation ; while, on the contrary, if with hearts full of iniquity we fly to Golgotha, to Mount Olivet, or the Holy Sepulchre, we shall still be as far from Christ as though we had never known the principles of the faith. "My friend," he con- cludes, "persuade your brethren not to quit Cappadocia for Jerusalem, but to go out of their bodies, that they may be joined to the Lord The Divine Spirit 'bloweth where it listeth,' and they who exercise firm faith shall partake of the gifts of grace according to the measure of faith, and not by a visit to Jerusalem." And is this really one of those ancient doctors who are so frequently and freely charged with superstitious igno- rance for their veneration for the sacred localities, and who, it is represented, took such pains to palm upon others the in- ventions of their own imagination, for filthy lucre's sake ? But it may be supposed that St Gregory of Nyssa was in ad- vance of his age, and was animated by a more genuine spirit of devotion than his colleagues. St Jerome, the translator of the Onomasticon, the historian of the pilgrimage of St Paula, will be adduced as an instance of doating superstition 184" THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. in the seclusion of his cave at Bethlehem. But even he may claim to be heard before he is condemned; and his letter to Paulinus 1 will not unaptly follow the above ex- tract from the eastern father : " The city to be sought after and extolled is not that which killed the prophets and shed the blood of Christ, but that which is made glad by the streams of the river, that which is set upon an hill, and cannot be hid ; that which the apostle calls the mother of the saints, in which he glories to be a fellow-citizen with the righteous....! dare not confine the Omnipotence of God in so narrow a boundary, nor limit within a certain district Him whom the heavens cannot contain. Believers will be weighed, not by diversity of clime, but by their measure of faith ; and the true worshippers worship the Father neither at Jerusalem nor yet on Mount Gerizim; for ' God is a Spirit, and they that worship hi.pi must worship him in spirit and in trnth.' ' The wind bloweth where it listeth.' ' The earth is the Lord's, and the ful- ness thereof.' After that the fleece of Judaea was dry, and the whole world sprinkled with the heavenly dew, and many have come from the east and from the west, and kid down in Abraham's bosom ; from thenceforth God is no more known in Jewry only ; His name is great not in Is- rael alone ; but the voice of the apostles has gone forth into all the earth, and then* words into the ends of the world. The place of the cross and of the resurrection may be profitable to those who take up their cross daily, and rise with Christ, and shew themselves meet for such an habitation ; but for those who say, ' The temple of the Lord, the temple of the Lord,' they must be re- 1 Sti. Ilieronymi Epist. No. XMX. Opera, Vol. iv. Part 11. pp. 503, 4. Edit. Bencd. CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 185 minded of the apostle's words, ' Ye are the temple of the Lord, and the Holy Spirit dwelleth in you.' An entrance into the kingdom of heaven is open equally from Britain as from Jerusalem; for 'the kingdom of God is within you/" Much more to the same effect follows, which it will be unnecessary to quote. What is here given may suffice to prove how very unjust are the insinuations of many modern writers against the fathers of that age how little they understand or appreciate the spirit by which they were influenced. But it should by all means be added, that the whole object of the epistle is to dissuade his friend from removing to Jerusalem, and that the argument which he most strongly urges, and which he appears to know would have the greatest weight is this, that a city crowded, as this now was, by a mixed multitude of both sexes, from all parts of the world, and exhibiting, as did other cities, all that could minister to vanity and folly and sin, all that would serve to counteract the hallowed influences of sacred associations, was not a place best calculated to promote his spiritual advancement, and to draw his heart from earth to heaven. Surely such passages as these, which are but specimens of innumerable others of like import, will serve to shew that lights as weh 1 as shades can be found to rest on the monastic cell of St Jerome, and may encourage the hope that the same may have been the case with those thousands of unknown recluses, who, amid the confusion of the period at which we have now arrived, betook themselves to the deserts and caves of Palestine, to prepare for the coming of the day of Christ, which all around betokened to be near at hand. At the same time, a very slight acquaint- 186 THE HOLY CITY. TpART ance with the lives of these solitaries will suffice to prove that there was something radically wrong in the ascetic discipline as practised by them, which it would be instructive to investigate and serviceable to expose. The duty and benefit of such exterior bodily discipline as the Bible en- joins and the Church directs, with a view to interior self- government, will be denied by none who have fairly tried it ; but the view of these ascetics seems to mistake the body for the flesh forgetting that the flesh is the carnal mind, not the earthly vessel, and that apostolic asceticism had re- spect to the will and conscience, not to bodily infirmities and needs'. To spite the body is not to rule it; and its vicious and excessive appetites may be mortified without denying its natural and lawful demands. The aim there- fore to macerate the earthen vessel, and the excessive attri- bution of sanctity to the practice, which forms the essence and foundation of their system, can scarcely be too strongly condemned, as tending to the subversion of Christian liberty and sobriety, to an unhealthy tone of feeling, and to a for- getfulness of the cardinal truths that Christian circumcision is " circumcision of the heart ;" and that " to be spiritually- minded is life and peace." There is, however, a great debt of gratitude due to the most eminent recluses of Palestine for important services rendered to the Church, which it were ungrateful not to acknowledge ; namely, the firm uncompromising maintenance of the orthodox faith, when its natural champions were 1 Acts xxiv. 10 : " Herein do I ex- ercise myself (dtTKtu), to have always a conscience void of offence," &c. : the only passage where the word occurs in the New Testament. The friend who will recognize the observations in the text as his own, will, I hope, pardon me for borrowing his language to ex- press sentiments common to us both. CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 187 silenced for their fidelity. Two remarkable instances of this may serve to exhibit the position of the Church at Jerusalem in the fifth and sixth centuries 2 . John was succeeded in the episcopal dignity by Praylus, whose mild presidency was marked by natural convulsions, which recalled the times of the apostate Julian. He was followed by Juvenal, who occupied the chair of St James for many years, and took an active part in the great questions which agitated the Church at that period. He was present at the third Ecumenical Council, where he warmly seconded St Cyril of Alexandria, in his opposition to the heresy of Nestorius ; his excessive abhorrence of which drove him for a time into the opposite extreme of Eutychian error. He was even present at the " Synod of Robbers," assembled by Dioscorus, at Ephesus, and aided by his countenance to lend authority to proceedings which the Church could not confirm. Being soon convinced of his error, and reconciled to the Church at the Council of Chalcedon, he was shortly called to witness the sincerity of his repentance by confessorship for the truth. The ca- tholic doctrine of the two Natures in the one Person of our adorable Saviour, which had been fully established in the third and fourth General Councils, is matter for faith, not for reason, and therefore, like other doctrines of re- velation, unpalatable to the carnally wise. On his return 2 In the absence of original autho- rities, I am glad to avail myself here of Vies des Peres des Deserts d'O- rient, &c. par le R. P. Michael-Ange Marin ; Histoire de Jerusalem, &c. par M. Poujoulat; and another by M. Mouravieft', written in Russ, and put within my reach by the great kind- ness of my friend the Rev. R. W. Blackmore, (the translator of the " His- tory of the Russian Church," by the same author,) to whom I shall be further indebted in subsequent parts of the present volume. The original authority chiefly consulted by the first of these writers is the monk Cyril, the contemporary biographer of St Euthy- mius and St Saba. 188 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. from the Council of Chalcedon, the patriarch Juvenal found that the minds of his people had been alienated from himself, and from the doctrine in favour of which he had there declared, by the artifices of a monk of evil repute, named Theodosius, who had represented the decisions of the fathers of Chal- cedon as at variance with those of the Council of Ephesus. He had succeeded in drawing over to his party the Empress Eudocia, who, after the death of her husband Theodosius the younger, had retired to Jerusalem, and her influence had enlisted on his side a large number of partizans. Juvenal was glad to escape with his life to Constantinople ; the monk procured his own election to the vacant see ; and then sought to establish himself in his usurped authority by the countenance of that great and good man, who at that time governed the monastic colleges of the deserts of Palestine. This was St Euthymius, with whom neither flattery nor threats could avail to shake the constancy of his profession, nor to recognize as rightful bishop the heretic who had stained his hands with innocent blood. He even exhorted the superiors of the monasteries to withdraw from his schis- matical communion, and himself set the example, by retiring to the desert until the pseudo-patriarch was expelled through the interference of the civil power. It would have been well if the moderation of the Emperor Marcian on this oc- casion had been more commonly imitated ; and it is pleasing to know that he had been persuaded to milder counsels than he would otherwise have adopted, by the intercession of the injured patriarch. The imperial rescript addressed to the inhabitants of Jerusalem, while it deprecates com- pulsory subscription to the orthodox confession, or any attempt to reduce the wanderers to the way of truth by menaces or the sword, declares the emperor's determination to support the orthodox faith, and to remove the scandal CH. III.] THK HOLY CITY. 1 89 which the violence of Theodosius had occasioned. The rightful patriarch was restored after an absence of twenty months. But the degradation of the heretical bishops who had been consecrated in the interim, and the encyclical letter of an orthodox synod, convoked by Juvenal, would not have secured the peace of the Church, had not the Empress Eudocia, softened by domestic afflictions, been re- stored to the truth by the earnest persuasion of Euthymius, to whom she was referred by the celebrated Stylite of Antioch. Her return to the orthodox communion influenced a numerous party, and led to the temporary re-establishment of peace in the distracted Church ; the disaffected withdraw- ing to two monasteries, which they founded for themselves, on the independent principle, at Bethlehem and Tekoa. During the short remainder of her life the munificent Eu- docia devoted her wealth to works of piety and charity in Jerusalem, where she founded churches 1 and monasteries and almshouses, and rebuilt the wall of the city 2 . On her death her remains were deposited in the large church of St Stephen the Deacon, which she had erected on the supposed site of the death or burial of the protomartyr, a furlong distant from the walls, on the north of the city. Anastasius, the immediate successor of Juvenal, was dis- turbed in the possession of the patriarchal dignity by the monk Gerontius, who was in his turn degraded on the acces- sion of the orthodox emperor Zenon. Martyrius, a disciple of the great Euthymius, was next elected to the vacant chair, which he occupied eight years, and was followed by Sallustius 1 M. Mouravieffsays : " The beau- tifying of the cathedral church at Beth- lehem is ascribed to her, and it is not improbable that she also erected the grotto of Gethsemane. We may gene- rally refer to her all those buildings that have been inconsiderately ascribed to the Empress Helena." Cap. ix. Vol. i. 142. 3 Evagrius, H. E. i. xxii. 190 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. for seven years. On his death, Elias, another disciple of Euthymius, was promoted, during whose presidency the Euty- chian storm, which had been only lulled for a time, burst out again with increased violence. During his occupation of the throne he actively promoted monasticism in and about Je- rusalem, and undertook the erection of several churches, among which the Church of the Purification, now the Mosk of Aksa, apparently owes its commencement to him 1 . He was interrupted in his undertakings by a sentence of banish- ment, for refusing to receive the synodal letters of Severus, a Eutychian monk, who had intruded into the see of Antioch, and was countenanced in his usurpation by the emperor Ana- stasius. He died in exile at Ailah (Elath) on the Red Sea 2 . But the designs of the heretics were signally defeated by the firmness of St Saba, who had even succeeded, for a time, in allaying the emperor's displeasure against the orthodox patriarch. This celebrated abbot, whose memory is still preserved by the monastery which he founded in the wild- est part of the rocky desert, to the west of the Dead Sea, was no sooner informed that the envoys of Severus had arrived with an armed force at Jerusalem to compel Elias to receive his letters, than he hastened to the city, where having convoked several superiors and monks with the people of Jerusalem to the Church of Calvary, he publicly anathe- matized Severus and all who would communicate with him, even in the presence of the officers and soldiers who had been sent to enforce the imperial mandate. Subsequently, on the banishment of Elias, and the substitution of John, 1 The church was completed and the whole design enlarged by the ad- dition of hospitals, &c. by the Emperor Justinian, at the instigation of St Saba ; and will demand a full notice in the Second Part of this volume. There can, I think, be no doubt of their identity. 3 For this city, see Robinson's Bib. Res. i. 250, &c. CH. III. THE HOLY CITY. 191 who had pledged himself to embrace the Eutychian heresy, the holy abbot prevailed so far as to alter his determination, and persuaded him to retract his wicked promise. This was no sooner reported to the emperor than he sent an officer named Anastasius to Jerusalem, and the patriarch was thrown into the public prison. Being released shortly after, he im- mediately sent to St Saba to inform him of the position of affairs, and assistance was promptly supplied : ten thousand monks from various monasteries hastened to the city, where they assembled in the church of St Stephen, the cathedral church of the Resurrection being incapable of receiving so vast a multitude. Here, in the presence of the imperial officers and of the Christian congregation, the patriarch ascended the ambon, supported on one side by St Saba, the superior of the Anchorites, and on the other by Theodosius, the chief of the Cenobites, and amid the acclamations of the people the three fathers with one voice anathematized JSestorius, Euty- ches, and Severus of Antioch, and all who refused to receive the decisions of the Council of Chalcedon. These proceedings served but to irritate the emperor, whose resentment would have been felt by the three champions, had he not been de- terred from more violent measures by a firm though respect- ful remonstrance of the whole body of monks 3 . They thus succeeded in maintaining the orthodoxy of the patriarchal see of Jerusalem, until the accession of Justin relieved the Church from the tyranny of an heretical emperor ; but the Mono- physite controversy has been a fruitful source of discord in the eastern churches from that time until the present day. The revival of the errors of Origen at this period added to the confusion of Palestine in the sixth century 4 ; but the 3 Great part of this interesting me- morial to the Emperor Anastasius is given by M. Marin, Vies des Peres, Lib. vn. cap. xix. 4 For these troubles see Fleury's Hist. Eccl. Lib. xxxm. lii. and liii. 192 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. annals of the Holy City furnish little of public interest or importance, except a synod assembled by the patriarch Peter, at the instigation of his brethren of Rome and Constantinople, in which the decrees of the fifth Ecumenical Council were con- firmed, and the prevailing errors condemned with great una- nimity, by the bishops of the three Palestines 1 . At the commencement of the seventh century a cloud gathered over the church of Jerusalem, which was to prove a forerunner of the thick darkness which shortly after fell upon it, and has enveloped it during that long night through which the light has scarcely glimmered in her candlestick. By the victorious career of Chosroes the Second, from the banks of the Tigris to the Hellespont and the Nile, the limits of the Persian kingdom were for a time extended as far west as in the days of its ancient renown, and Judaea again owned the dominion of a Magian monarch 2 . Jeru- salem was taken, apparently without a struggle, when the usual horrors attendant on the sacking of a city by a bar- barian army were enhanced by the malice of the Jews, who to the number of 26,000 had followed the Persians from Galilee, to gratify their vengeance by the massacre of the Christians, and the demolition of their most sacred churches. They were amply glutted with blood : no fewer than 90,000 of both sexes, and of all ages and conditions, fell victims to their indiscriminating hatred. The churches of Gethscmane, and that erected by the Empress Helena on Mount Olivet, being without the walls, first became a prey to their fury : then the Basilica of Constantine, the churches of 1 For the authorities and a general view of the condition of Jerusalem during the sixth century, the reader may consult the "Biblical" Research- es, Vol. ii. pp. 2633. 3 For the expedition of Chosroes the English reader may consult Gibbon, Decline and Fall, cap. xlvi. I follow Eutychii Annales, p. 213, not having the contemporary writers within reach. CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 193 Calvary and of the Holy Sepulchre were demolished, the last two being burnt to the ground. The greater part of the city was also destroyed. The sacred vessels 3 and other treasures, accumulated in the churches, which had attracted the avarice of Nushirvan 4 , were transferred to the coffers of his grandson; and the patriarch Zacharias, with numerous other captives, accompa- nied the wood of the true Cross in its journey to the distant capital of the conqueror. But the providence of God had prepared a home and a friend for the exiled patriarch in the land of strangers. He was redeemed and entertained, with many of his flock, in the house of the Christian consort of Chosroes, the daughter of the Emperor Maurice 5 , who also guarded the sacred Cross against the desecration to which it might have been exposed from the zeal of the idolaters. Zacharias ended his days in the land of his captivity, and the widowed church continued for fifteen years without a head 6 . Meanwhile its desolations had awakened the commisera- tion and excited the zeal of Modestus, superior of the monas- tery of Theodosius, who travelled throughout Palestine and Syria to collect funds for the restoration of the sacred buildings. He was warmly seconded in his pious under- taking by the bountiful assistance of John the alms-giver 7 , 3 Among these were the sacred ves- sels of the Jewish temple, captured by Titus, and subsequently by Genseric, and restored to Jerusalem by Justinian after their recovery by Belisarius. See above, cap. ii. 4 Procopius de Bell. Pers. Lib. n. cap. xx. The expedition of Belisa- rius forced him to retreat over the Eu- phrates, before he could execute his design. 5 So says Eutychius, p. 215, who 13 calls her Mary ; other writers give her name as Sira. Gibbon, 1. c. n. 111. 6 Eutych, 1. c. Other writers make Zecharias return to Jerusalem. See Fleury, Lib. xxxvn. cap. xxxiv. 7 The enumeration of the gifts is interesting, as characteristic of the times and of the worthy patriarch's bounty. They consisted of 1000 pieces of gold, 1000 pounds of iron, 1000 sacks of wheat, the same of pulse, 1000 barrels of dried fish, as many 194 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. patriarch of Antioch, who had already most liberally re- ceived and entertained such of the inhabitants of Jerusalem as had succeeded in effecting their escape from the swords of the Persians and Jews. But the principal treasure of the church of Jerusalem still remained in the power of the fire-worshippers, nor was it recovered until the last . of those glorious campaigns in which the Emperor Heraclius rolled back the tide of war into the heart of the Persian kingdom, and humbled the pride of the haughty Chosroes 1 . The year after his well-earned triumph at Constantinople, the Christian emperor repaired in person to Jerusalem, carrying with him the true cross, which had remained inviolate during the captivity, the seals of the chest in which it was contained having continued unbroken. On the 14th of September, A. D. 629, a day still marked in the English calendar, and whose anniversary is celebrated with especial solemnity in other churches of the west and east, Heraclius, having laid aside his royal apparel, entered the gates of the Holy City, clothed in mean garments, and barefoot, carrying on his shoulder the precious wood on which the World's Redemption had been accomplished. It is only consistent in an infidel to sneer at the spectacle of the victorious hero of the Persian war bowing his neck to the yoke of the crucified * ; but the last appearance of an emperor of the east in the Holy City, which was soon to be wrested from his dominions for ever, might have been con- skins of wine, 1000 Egyptian labour- ers, accompanied with a modest letter, asking pardon for sending nothing worthy of his Lord, and expressing his desire himself to come and assist as a common mason in the restoration. Eutych. Ann. n. p. 218. Fleury, xxxvin. xi. Modestus, who was cal- led a second Bezaleel, or Zerubbabel, Heraclius, Eutych. Ann. n. p. 249. He only occupied the see nine months, and on his death it remained vacant six years, until the appointment of Sophronius. 1 Gibbon's Decline and Fall, cap. xlvi. 2 See a truly characteristic passage in Gibbon, 1. c. near the end of the was afterwards appointed Patriarch by ' chapter. CH. HI.] THE HOLY CITY. 195 templated with satisfaction by the believer, had he not sullied the triumph of his self-abasement by a sanguinary retaliation on the Jews, to which he was instigated by the fears or by the fury of the Christians, who had been threatened with extermination in a conspiracy of that fanatical people, which was happily detected in time to prevent the execution of their terrible purpose 3 . This had occurred at a time when the danger which threatened the capital had left Palestine unpro- tected; but however this new evidence of their relentless spirit of animosity against the Christians might have jus- tified severe precautionary measures against the Jews, it could not palliate nor excuse the vindictive massacre or dis- persion of the whole people ; the guilt of which was enhanced by the additional crime of perjury, for which the fastings of the Greeks could ill atone 4 . The spirit exhibited on this occasion too clearly proves that the heavy chastisement in- flicted by the Persians had not accomplished its work on the church of Jerusalem, and another furnace was prepared for its debased gold, in which we may hope that the pro- cess of purification is still going forward. 3 Eutych. Ann. 221, 222. 4 See the account in Eutych. Ann. 242 249. 132 CHAPTER IV. JERUSALEM DURING THE MAHOMMEDAN DOMINATION. IN the year that the Emperor Heraclius set out on the first of his victorious campaigns against Chosroes, an Arabian adventurer, driven as an impostor from his native city of Mecca, hardly escaped with his life to Medina ; and in the year that the emperor celebrated his triumph at Jerusalem, the son of Abdullah returned at the head of 10,000 followers to the city from which he had been expelled, forced his enemies to submission, demolished the idols of the Caaba, and changed the religion of Arabia. His successes in his own country were but a prelude to the victories which were CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 197 to attend the arms of his generals throughout their irre- sistible career, wherein, in less than a century, they sub- jugated to the Prophet and his khaliphs, or successors, the whole of the Persian, and the fairest and the most fertile provinces of the Roman empire, including Syria, Egypt, Northern Africa, and Spain ; a vast extent of territory com- prehended in the three continents of the old world, and stretching from India to the Atlantic Ocean 1 . The Roman army had first heard the war-cry of the Arabs, and experienced the lightning flashes of Kaled, the " Sword of God," in the battle of Muta, during the lifetime of Mahomet, and the first act of the first khaliph was to raise an army for the invasion of Syria, which was placed under the command of Abu Obeidah, with whom Kaled was afterwards associated, having been recalled from the Persian war 2 . The wild enthusiasm of the disciples of the Koran supplied the place of military tactics, while the corruptions and divisions of the Christian Church, loudly calling for Divine judgment, armed them with a power which nothing could withstand. The fall of Damascus and other im- portant cities of Syria, above all the obstinate and decisive battle of Yermuk, which had crushed the Roman power in the country, left the generals the option of proceeding de- liberately to the reduction of the cities which stiU held out, in such order as they pleased. Gaza had been already reduced by Amrou, the future conqueror of Egypt. By the direction of the khaliph the siege of Jerusalem was resolved 1 For the rise and progress of Islam, the English reader may consult Pri- deaux's Life of Mahommed, Ockley's History of the Saracens, the Abbd de Marigny's " History of the Arabians," or the shorter notices of Gibbon's De- cline and Fall, 1. li. White's Bamp- ton Lectures with the copious notes present a good view of the genius of the religion. 2 Eutychii Annales, 11. 258. 198 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. on, and Yezid-Ibn-Abu-Sophian was sent forward with a detachment of 5000 Arabs, Abu Obeidah himself brought up the main body only eleven days later, and was shortly joined by Amrou and his victorious troops from the south. When the city was thus invested it contained 12,000 Greeks and 50,000 natives 1 . Sophronius, who then held the patri- archate 2 , was a dignitary equal to the emergency, and holds a conspicuous place in the Christian and Mahometan annals of these events, as the mediator of peace and war. The summons to surrender is characteristic : "In the name of God, merciful and gracious ! from Abu-Obeidah-Ibn- Jirah to the Christians of the people of ^Elia, health ! and to all who follow the right way, and believe in God and in His Prophet ! To come to the point. For my part, I beg you to bear witness that there is no God but God, and Mahom- med is the Apostle of God, and that the moment of judgment will come beyond all doubt; and that God will raise men from the dead. And if you will stand to this, your blood is sacred unto us as well as your property, and your children, and you shall be to us as brothers: but if you refuse, I will bring down upon you a people more earnest in their love of death than you in the drinking of wine, or eating of hog's flesh ; nor will I ever pass away from you, please God, until I have killed your warriors, and made captive your children 3 ." 1 " Jalal-Addi'n, History of the Temple at Jerusalem, translated by Reynolds," p. 157- This collection of testimonies, to which 1 shall have oc- casion to refer constantly, would be more valuable if it were less diffuse and verbose. 2 This dignitary had before distin- guished himself as an author on the orthodox side of the Monothelite contro- versy, which then troubled the Church. His predecessor, Modestus, had occu- pied the see only nine months; then was an interregnum of six years. Eu- tychii Annales, n. p. 249. And on the death of Sophronius, after four years, the see was vacant for twenty-nine years. Eutychii Annales, n. pp. 270. 290. 326. 3 Jalal-Addin, p. 158. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 199 The proposals were rejected by the inhabitants, who re- solved to try the fortune of war, and made a vigorous resistance for four months, during which the Arabs suffered severely both from the sallies of the besieged and the in- clemency of the season ; for it was then winter 4 . At length, despairing of succour from the discomfited troops of the empire, and convinced of the obstinacy of the Saracens, the patriarch advanced to the walls, and invited the commander to a parley. His attempt to terrify the infidel by threats of the Divine vengeance for the desecration of the Holy Land was skilfully parried by Abu-Obeidah, who professed equal veneration for the sacred city, as the mine of the prophets, whose sepulchres it contained; and claimed a better title to its possession than the Christians could have, inasmuch as it was from it that Mahommed had commenced his nocturnal journey to the ninth heaven ; and he finally declared his resolution not to withdraw from the siege until God delivered it into his hands, as He had delivered other places before it. At length the patriarch consented to capitulate, but refused to treat of terms with any subordinate officer, and required the presence of the Khalif himself ; binding the people by an oath to surrender the city, on fair terms, into his hands 5 . A messenger was dispatched to Medina, and after some hesi- tation on his part, and conflicting opinions in his council, Omar resolved to set out for the scene of action. His pre- parations were soon complete : a modern Bedouin is not more economical in his wardrobe and equipage than was the great " Commander of the Faithful." A pair of saddle-bags, filled with the commonest provisions, slung before him on the camel, a large leathern bottle, and a wooden platter behind, were all his equipment ; and with these he 4 Ockley's Saracens, i. 214. 5 Jalal-Addin, p. 161. 200 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. entertained his fellow-travellers at their frugal meal in their journey through the desert. On his progress he set in order what he found amiss hi the villages through which he passed, administered even-handed justice without preju- dice or partiality, and set his companions an edifying example in the punctual discharge of the prescribed duties of religion 1 . Coming in sight of the Holy City, he exclaimed : " Allah Acbar! (God is great!) God, give us an easy conquest!" He fixed his head-quarters at a village named Jabit, and there received a deputation from the Christians, with whom he concluded articles of capitulation, which are interesting as "a model for capitulation of every Christian city 2 ." " In the name of God, merciful and compassionate ! The following are the terms of capitulation which I, Omar, the servant of God, the commander of the faithful, grant to the people of ^EHa. I grant them security for their lives, their possessions, and their children ; their churches, their crosses, and all that appertains to them, in their integrity, and their lands, and to all of their religion. Then* churches shall not be im- poverished, nor destroyed, nor injured ; neither their endow- ments nor their dignity; and nothing of their property. Neither shall the inhabitants of Jerusalem be exposed to violence for following their religion ; nor shall one of them be injured; nor shall one of the Jews be impoverished in ^Elia. And it is stipulated with the people of JElia, that they pay a tribute according to the tribute paid by the people of the other cities 3 . Moreover, the Greeks and robbers shall depart therefrom, with security for their life 1 Ockley, i. 217. " Jalal-Addfn, p. 168. ; Five dinars were imposed upon the richest class; four upon the next; three upon the next. Very old men, or very young children, paid nothing. Ibid. p. 158. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 201 and property 4 . . . And whoever there be of the people of the land who wish to reside therein, upon them is the same tribute as upon the people of ^Elia. And whosoever wishes to go with the Greeks, or to return to his land, from him shall be taken nothing of the stores of his magazines. And of all this may God be the Ratifier ! and be this the cove- nant of his Apostle (upon whom be the blessing and peace of God !) and the covenant of the orthodox khalifs, if they yield possession." Other conditions are added by various autho- rities, allowing the free exercise of their religion to the Christians, but forbidding them to obtrude it upon the Mussel- mans in any public exhibition, or to place obstacles in the way of any who chose to embrace Islam 5 . These preliminaries being arranged, the gates were thrown open, and the khalif was met at his entrance by the patriarch. The salutation of the latter might have been more courteous, though his reception of such a conqueror could scarcely have been less sad. The khalif, dressed in a raiment of camel's hair, made no very imposing appearance ; practising in his own person the moderation which he preached to others, as the only substantial foundation of the greatness of the Musselmans. When Sophronius saw him, he ex- claimed : " Verily, this is the abomination of desolation, spoken of by Daniel the prophet, standing in the holy place !" and as he went he bewailed the affliction of the Christians with many tears 6 . But the satisfaction of the emir on discovering that he had been the subject of prophecy under any description, could not but be great in the ab- sence of all prophetic or miraculous testimony of the mission 4 "Three days were assigned for their departure ; the safe conduct and time being null and void with respect to any one who should remain after the expiration of that term." Ibid. p. 157. 6 Ibid. p. 172. Ockley, i. p. 223. 6 Theophanes, Chorograph. p. 281. 202 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. of Mahommed, and would no doubt excuse the tears of the patriarch 1 . The strict observance of the letter of the treaty, and the thoughtful consideration with which he provided against its violation by his followers, redound to the credit of the khalif, and serve to prove that the high integrity of his character has not been over-estimated by Mahommedan writers. He proceeded, under the conduct of the patriarch, to the Church of the Resurrection 2 . While there the Moslem's hour of prayer arrived, and Omar expressed a wish to pray. " O Commander of the faithful," said the patriarch, "pray here!" " I will not pray here," replied the khalif. He was con- ducted to the Church of Constantine, in the middle of which a mat was spread for his accommodation : " Neither will I pray here," he repeated. He then went out of the church to the door facing the east, and there prayed alone on the steps. Then sitting down he enquired : " Knowest thou, patriarch, why I would not pray within the church? Had I done so, you would have lost your right in it, for the Moslems would have taken it from you after my death, saying, Here prayed Omar." Not satisfied with this precau- tion, but fearing lest his act, as it was, might be drawn into precedent, he asked for paper, and wrote an order that the Moslems should not pray even on the steps except one at a time, and should not be called to prayer there, as at their own mosks. This writing he delivered to the patriarch. The khalif next performed his devotions at the Tower of David, and then requested to be conducted to the " Mosk 1 See Ockley's Saracens, pp. 21ft, 16, for the very probable conjecture that the Mahommedan story of a prophecy among the Christians relating to Omar's conquest, was grounded on this ex- clamation of the patriarch. 8 Eutychii Annales, Vol. 11. p. 285, 6. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 203 of David." The patriarch might guess that the Temple of Solomon was intended by this strange designation; but the site had been so long neglected that the memory of it was well nigh lost, which will account for the hesitation which followed 3 . He conducted Omar and his attendants to the Church of the Resurrection, and said, " This is the Mosk of David." Omar considered attentively, and replied : " Thou liest ! for the Apostle of God (on whom be the blessing and peace of God !) described to me the Mosk of David, which does not answer to this." The same objection was repeated at the Church of Zion, and at other churches in the city. At length he came near to a gate called the Gate of Mahom- med. Water was running down the steps, and through the street which led to the city-gate, so that great part of the stairs were under water 4 . Then said the patriarch to him : " Thou canst go no further except by crawling on hands and knees." The khalif, nothing daunted, proceeded thus through the water-channel, until he came to a level space at the top of a hill, where there were ruins 5 . Here he looked about him and contemplated for a while ; then he said : " Allah Acbar ! By Him in whose hands is my life, this is that which the Apostle of God (on whom be the peace and blessing of God !) described to me." 3 I make out the best story I can from Eutychii Annales, Vol. n. pp. 286, 289 ; from the various and often conflicting traditions preserved by Ja- lal-Addm, in his History of the Tem- ple of Jerusalem, pp. 176 190 of the Translation; and from the Arabic History of Jerusalem, translated in Fundgraben des Orients, Vol. n. p. 160. 4 I here regret very much the am- biguity of the authors and their con- flicting traditions. It is not clear whether this is a sewer or a water-course which the khalif traversed ; and a question of some interest, which will be discussed below, is involved in it. 5 "Aliqua vetusti operis extantia vestigia demonstrantes." William of Tyre, Lib. i. cap. ii. p. 630. Gesta Dei. 204 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. The sacred rock, reputed to be the Bethel of Jacob's vision 1 , the Holy of Holies in Solomon's Temple, the start- ing point of Mahommed's celestial journey, had been con- verted into a dunghill by the Christians, as an insult to the Jews, who regarded the spot with especial veneration 2 . The zealous khalif himself set the example of clearing it from its defilement, and was warmly seconded by his fol- lowers, converting their garments into barrows, to transport the soil to the neighbouring valley. Having accomplished their task, they proceeded to two fountains in the valley of Hinnom, where they performed the necessary ablutions, 1 and then returned to the rock to pray there. Monk of Omar. 1 The tradition which identifies Bethel with Jerusalem, owes its origin, I believe, to the Moslems, with whom it is quite in character to crowd to- gether a number of incidents, without the slightest regard to topography, chronology, or history. * The parallel between the Temple and the Holy Sepulchre should be ob- served. The traditionary evidence in favour of the former is not nearly so distinct as for the latter : yet no one doubts that its site was actually re- covered. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 205 Thus was the spot selected for that magnificent structure which at this day perpetuates at Jerusalem the name of the second khalif, its first Moslem conqueror. Not that the present building owes its erection to him; his mosk does not appear to have possessed many architectural at- tractions : it did but stand a few years, and is described by those who saw it as a mean building 3 . The existing temple was built by Abd-el-Malik Ibn Marwan, of the house of Ommiyah, the tenth khalif. The grandeur of its conception, and the magnificence of its execution, deserved a better reward from posterity than the oblivion of his name. It was commenced in the 69th year of the Hejira, and completed in three years. It is said that he spent upon the building the produce of a seven years' tax upon Egypt, amounting, according to another authority, to 100,000 dinars; and the Arabian historians are lost in admiration at the prodigality of the expenditure; but as the minute detail of its ornaments would be tedious and uninteresting, it may be dispensed with 4 . The neighbouring church of Justinian, dedicated to the Virgin, had already been con- verted into the Mosk el Aksa. The munificent Khalif Abd-el-Malik covered its gates with plates of gold and silver, but it was soon stripped of its treasures in conse- quence of the poverty of his successors 5 . During the kha- lifat of his son Waled, the eastern part of the Mosk el Aksa fell to ruin, and as he had no funds to repair it, 3 Poujoulat, Histoire, Vol. m. p. 106, so represents the testimony of 4 Jalal-Addfn, pp. 184-190, gives a full description. Arculphus, to which I have not now j 5 For the traditionary notices of the the opportunity of reference. If this Mosk el Aksa, see Jalal-Addin, Hist. be correct, Arculphus must have visited Jerusalem earlier than C97, as will presently appear. of the Temple, &c. pp. 190194; and Fundgraben des Orients, Vol. u. pp. 157, 159. 206 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. he ordered the ruined part to be pulled down, and the price of the materials to be distributed to the poor. Forty years later, in the time of the second Abbasside khalif, Abu-Jafar-Al-Mansur, other parts of this extensive building were decayed by time, or injured by an earthquake, and as he could not afford to restore it, he stripped the gold from the doors, coined it, and applied the proceeds to the necessary repairs. A second earthquake shook down what he had rebuilt, and his son and successor, Al-Mahadi, found the mosk in ruins. The character of the building was altered by this khalif, whose taste was offended by its proportions, and he gave orders that its length should be diminished and its width increased. Again, in the 452nd year of the Hejira, A.D. 1060, it suffered materially from the falling in of the roof, and occasioned to the Moslems sad forebodings of approaching calamities, which were shortly verified by the Crusaders. The facts here stated will suf- ficiently account for the debasements noticed by modern travellers in this very interesting building, decidedly one of the most ancient in Jerusalem debasements which have so altered its character, as to lead them to question whether it can be the church of the Purification built by Justinian 1 . It is described as " consisting of a nave and six side-aisles, of a mixed architecture, the entire breadth being 180 feet, or 100 feet less than the length. The columns and piers are very irregular in size, material, and architectural cha- racter ; some being evidently Roman, while others are Sara- 1 Further notice will be taken of iliis church in Part 1 1. cap. ii. 2 See a communication from Mr Catherwood, in Bartlett's Walks about Jerusalem, p. 160. The architect adds in a note : " It is supposed to be the church built by Justinian, but if so, it has been greatly altered by the Ma- homedans." This conjecture is seen to be well founded. CH. IV. THE HOLY CITY. 207 From the period of its conquest by Omar, but espe- cially subsequent to the erection of the Kubbet es-Sakhrah (the Dome of the Rock) by Abd-el-Malik Ibn-Marwan, Beit el-Mukaddus 3 (the Holy House) so the Moslems name Jerusalem became almost as much an object of religious attraction to the Mahometan devotee as to the Christian pilgrim 4 . Not that the zeal of the latter was in the least abated by the occupation of the Holy City by the infidels ; nor do the strangers from, the west ap- pear to have suffered any material annoyance from them 5 . The native Christians themselves enjoyed the peace and protection secured to them by the treaty of capitulation, during the reign .of Omar's upright successors, and of the princes of the house of Ommiyah 6 ; but their circumstances underwent a considerable change for the worse on the acces- sion to power of the family of Abbas. A dynasty which had waded to the throne through the blood of their co- religionists was not likely to spare those whom they despised as infidels ; and the yoke of servitude began to press more heavily on the Christians of the East ; a frequent change of local governors exposing them to frequent change of 3 So they write. In common par- lance they use the more convenient abhreviated form, and call it simply "el-Kuds," i. e. "the Holy." 4 Eutychii Annales, ii. 365. Abd- el-Melik, after the example of his predecessor Merwan, had forbidden pilgrimages to Mecca, on account of its occupation by Abdullah Ibn-Zo- bain. 5 See the notices in Bib. Res. n. 38, 9, where will be found, in the notes, references to the authorities for this dark period of Jerusalem's his- tory, through which I am compelled to run very rapidly. 6 The first five khalifs are distin- guished by the designation of "the Upright," which their administration seems to have merited. The dynasty of Ommiyah acceded by the usurpa- tion of Moawiyah in A. D. 661, and became extinct by the murder of Mer- wan II. A. D. 752. For a succinct his- tory of these princes, see Gibbon, capp. 1. li. 208 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. fortune, according to the caprice of their tyrants 1 . The reign of Harun el-Rashid (A.D. 786 809) is a bright spot in the dark annals of Jerusalem's history under the Abbasside khalifs, and presents to us the two most powerful monarchs of the West and of the East, a Christian and a Musselman, known to each other only by report, united in bonds of amity by the mutual veneration which their respective characters inspired. The biographer of Charlemagne 2 represents that the friendship of Harun the Just was so highly valued by the monarch of the West, that he preferred it to the alliance of all the kings and princes in the whole world, and judged him alone worthy to be treated with distinction. The first advances were made by the western emperor, whose legates to the court of the eastern monarch were entrusted with costly offerings for the Holy Sepulchre. They carried back to their master the keys of the church, in token that the khalif renounced all power over that " sacred and salu- tary place" in favour of his Christian ally ; a more acceptable present than the robes and spices, with other rich produc- tions of the East, which the munificence of Harun forwarded on that occasion, on the sole elephant in his possession, for the acceptance of Charlemagne. Although the exertions of the emperor in behalf of the oppressed Christians were not limited to Palestine 3 , yet Jerusalem experienced in a fuller measure his bounteous liberality. Alms were collected and sent thither for the 1 William of Tyre, Lib. i. cap. iii. p. 630, in the Gesta Dei. 2 See Eginhardi Vita Caroli Magni, as quoted by William of Tyre, 1. c. ; and gee Bib. Res. n. p. 41, and notes. 3 "Ob hacmaxime transmarinorum tegum amicitias expetens, ut Christi- anis sub eorum dorninatu degentibus, refrigerium aliquod et relevatio prove- niret." Eginhard, 1. c. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 209 restoration of ruined churches and the relief of the poor ; and more than fifty years after his death, notwithstand- ing a storm had since visited the Christians, a library and hospice for pilgrims, founded by him, were still seen at Jerusalem, in the neighbourhood of St Mary's Church, which formed the southern side of the court of the Holy Se- pulchre 4 . The troubles which attended the decline of the power of the khalifs of Bagdad deeply afflicted the Christians of Palestine, and the transfer of the country to the dominion of the Fatimites prepared for them fresh calamities, which called forth the sympathies of Europe, long since invited in a touching letter from the Patriarch Elias 5 . At first indeed the Egyptian yoke appeared more tolerable than that from which they had been released 6 , but the occu- pation of the throne by the fanatical Hakem, was a signal for a repetition of the scenes enacted by the Persians under Chosroes. This monster of iniquity, whose memory is still reverenced by the Druses as the latest incarnation of the Deity ! succeeded to the throne of his father Aziz at the 4 The monk Bernhard visited the city circ. A.D. 870. See Poujoulat, Histoire, m. 109, and Bib. Res. p. 42. This hospice was probably the com- mencement of that of the merchants of Amalfi, the foundation of the knights of St John, of which presently : it oc- cupied the same site. 5 A.D. 881. See this letter to Charles the Young, in Bibliotheque des Croisades, de M. Michaud, Pt. 1, pp. 443, 4. It appears to have re- ceived no answer ; but at the close of the following century, Pope Sylvester II. endeavoured to excite an active in- terest in the cause of the suffering 14 Christians. See the authorities Bib. Res. ii. 44. 6 William of Tyre, i. iv. p. 631. This appears inconsistent with the ac- count of the destruction of the Holy Sepulchre by Muez, when the Patri- arch John is said to have been burnt in the flames. Bib. Res. 43. I can- not help suspecting some confusion between this and the destruction of the church by Hakem (presently to be noticed), on which occasion the Greek annals inform us that the Patri- arch John VII. was burnt with the church of the Holy Sepulchre. 210 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. early age of eleven years 1 , (A.D. 996.) The motives which actuated him in his persecution of the Christians are variously stated. Two contemporary chroniclers 2 declare that he was instigated to it by the hereditary enemies of the Christian name, who alarmed him by representations, which the letter of Gerbert, archbishop of Ravenna, and the descent of the Genoese and Pisans on the coast of Palestine, as indicating the general feeling of the West, would fully justify. The Jews of Orleans suborned an apostate Christian to carry to the Khalif a letter, written in Hebrew characters for greater security, and concealed in his staff, which is de- scribed as a masterpiece of perfidy and wickedness. This is said to have succeeded in its object, and to have resulted in the destruction of the church of the Holy Sepulchre. A different account is given by later writers 3 . The mother of Hakem was a Christian, and her two brothers had been raised by the favour of Khalif Aziz to the pa- triarchal chairs of Jerusalem and Alexandria. This con- nexion involved Hakem in the suspicion of Christianity, and, in order to clear himself from the imputation, he resolved on the demolition of the most sacred of their churches. By his orders the church of the Resurrection was completely overthrown; an ineffectual attempt was made to destroy the sacred Cave itself, by levelling it with the ground : and the Christians were reduced to extremities which they had not experienced since their subjugation to the Moslems. Enormous tribute was exacted in violation of privileges 1 An interesting account of this monster is contained in the notes to Mr Reynolds' translation of Jalal- addin, p. 520; and in a valuable little book on Syria and Mount Lebanon, lately published, in which, I think, I recognize the hand of a gentleman whom I met in the East. 3 Olaben and Adhemar, as quoted by Poujoulat, Vol. in. p. 119. 3 William of Tyre, i. iv. p. 31. CH. IV .] THE HOLY CITY. 211 granted by former khalifs. The celebration of their solem- nities, which had been formerly allowed, was now prohibited, or subjected to violent and barbarous interruptions, and not only liberty of worship, but liberty of speech, was taken away, the accusations of unprincipled informers eagerly be- lieved, and the faithful subjected to most cruel punishments for the lightest offences. John VII. the patriarch for the time, who enjoyed only the privilege of a priority of suffer- ing, encouraged his flock, both by precept and example, to endurance of present evils, by the prospect of future rewards. The intercession of Romanus Diogenes, the unfortunate emperor of Constantinople, prevailed with Dhaher, the brother and successor of Hakem, to consent to the re-edification of the church of the Holy Sepulchre, which the patriarch NI- cephorus was enabled to accomplish through the liberality of another Constantine (Monomachus), who granted funds for the purpose from the imperial treasury. Yet the condition of the Christians was little ameliorated. They were still treated with insult, loaded with reproaches, exposed to the calumnious accusations of the basest sycophants, and im- poverished in their attempts to satisfy the exorbitant de- mands of a rapid succession of greedy governors 4 . But even these afflictions, heavy as they were, were nothing in comparison with those which followed, and at length aroused the whole of Western Europe to arm in defence of their oppressed brethren of the East. The Turks, whose political existence dates from the middle of the sixth century, when their ancestors first left their native mountains to handle in their own cause the swords which they had so long forged for others, had extended their influence in Persia, 4 William of Tyre i. v. vi. p. 632. 142 212 THE HOLY CITY. [PART under the Saracens, until they had gradually usurped all but the shadow of power, which was still claimed by the khalifs of Bagdad 1 . In the middle of the eleventh century the destinies of Asia were in fact ruled by the Seljukian sultans, nominally the servants, but virtually the tyrants, of the " Prince of the Faithful" a venerable phantom, who slum- bered in inglorious ease in his palace at Bagdad, leaving to his lieutenants the task of propagating the faith of the Koran which they had embraced. Malek-Shah, the eldest son of the celebrated Alp Arslan, hi the course of a prosperous reign of twenty years (1072 1092), extended the limits of his jurisdiction in Tartary to the frontiers of China, eastward, reduced the borders of the Greek empire by the conquest of Asia Minor on the west, and was not withheld by a com- munity of faith from the invasion of the territories of the Fatimite khalifs of Egypt. Syria and Palestine were wrested from their grasp by his lieutenants, and Jerusalem groaned under a bondage more intolerable than it had hitherto known 2 . Still the innumerable perils of the way, increased as they were by this late revolution, could not repress the ardour of the Western Christians of all conditions, who still flocked in crowds to pay their adorations at the Holy Sepulchre 3 . Yet the melancholy picture of the state of Christendom, drawn by the pen of one who would not overstate its cor- ruptions 4 , forbids us to hope that the zeal which vented itself in foreign pilgrimages was either intelligent or rightly directed. " The people were faithful only in name ; princes 1 An account of the origin and pro- gress of the Turks is contained in Gibbon, capp. xlii. lii. Ivii. 2 William of Tyre, i. x. 030. 8 An interesting notice of some of these pilgrimages of the eleventh cen- tury will be found in Dr Robinson's Bib. Res. n. p. 48, &c. 4 The following description is taken from William of Tyre, i. viii. pp. 034, 035. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 213 and subjects, clergy and laity, had all alike departed from purity both of faith and morals. Sacrilege, violence, gross fornication, injustice, luxury, and a long catalogue of other sins, betokened that the world was declining towards evening, and that the second advent of the Son of man was at hand ; for the love of many had waxed cold, and faith was no more found in the earth. The bishops, instead of correcting the prevailing abuses, were grossly negligent ; ' dumb dogs, not able to bark;' accepting persons; leaving the sheep to wolves, as hirelings ; given to simony ; followers of Gehazi. In short ' all flesh had corrupted his way upon the earth ;' and nature itself gave token of approaching judgments ; for there were prodigies in heavens and signs upon earth; pestilence, and famine, and earthquakes." Such was the condition of the world when the nations of the West and of the East were brought into deadly collision 5 . The spark which produced the tremendous explosion was kindled by an obscure individual, a French hermit, of the diocese of Amiens. He had come as a pilgrim to Jerusalem (A.D. 1094), where his sympathy was awakened by the sufferings of the native church, and his righteous indignation aroused by the flagitious practices of its ruthless oppressors. An aureus* was exacted for admission to the city ; not one in a thousand of the wretched pilgrims, who had lost their all on the road, could satisfy the demand ; and their tribute and maintenance imposed an intolerable burden on the in- 5 I may say, once for all, that I follow in the history of the earlier Crusades, the collection of writers in the Gesta Dei per Francos, but especi- ally William of Tyre. A short out- line is given by Gibbon, cap. Iviii. where a tabular view of references to this interesting collection will be found. 6 "A gold Byzant, equivalent to about five Spanish dollars." Bib. Res. ii. p. 48, note 3. The value of the Spanish dollar is now four shillings and fourpence English. 214 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. habitants. They were constantly exposed to insults in their visits to the holy places, whose sanctity was no protection against the infidels. The churches, which had been repaired with great labour and cost, were violently entered even during the celebration of the divine offices, and the tyrants would sit upon the altars, overthrow and trample under foot the sacred vessels, insult the clergy with abuse and blows, and pluck the venerable patriarch from his seat by the hair of his head or beard. They would even occasionally proceed so far as to throw him into prison 1 . Distressed beyond measure at these barbarities, Peter sought an interview with Symeon, offered his condolence, and recommended him to write to the sovereign pontiff of the Roman Church, to the kings and princes of the West, since he must now despair of all succour from the East. For himself, he undertook to make known throughout the length and breadth of Europe the facts of which he had been assured by ocular proof, and to leave no means untried to furnish a remedy to these bitter persecutions. His aid was thankfully accepted, and he departed on his errand. Most faithfully did he execute his voluntary commission. Peter the hermit is described as of short stature, and a contemptible presence as regards the outer man ; but he had a mighty spirit, quick wit, a piercing eye, and a pleasing flow of eloquence, which he turned to the best account in preaching the first Crusade. The cause was strenuously taken up by Pope Urban II. The council of Clermont, summoned by that pontiff, witnessed the success of his earnest exhortations; the watchword claiming the Divine sanction for the undertaking, ran like wild-fire 1 It is impossible not to be struck by the similarity of these barbarities, to those practised by the Puritans at the time of the Commonwealth. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 215 through the countries of the West, and Europe was con- vulsed to its centre with preparations for the Holy War 2 . Various were the motives which induced the thousands of Italy, France, and Germany, to arm for the recovery of the Holy Sepulchre. Some were actuated, no doubt, by deep and sincere devotion to their Lord : they looked upon Palestine as " ImmanuePs Land " in a peculiar sense. The feudal laws, which then prevailed, would inculcate the duty of the vassal to fight for the expulsion of the unbelievers to whom it was enslaved ; and the authority of the Church, holding out to them the sure promise of eternal reward, still further enflamed their religious ardour ; the zeal for pilgrimage being increased by the glorious prospect of a martyr's crown. But whether it were " the mightiest lever known to the moral world, imagination," or superstition, or simply worldly motives, that " upheaved all Christendom from her natural station," and stirred to its lowest depths the elements of society, he must be blind indeed who does not see, and ungrateful who will not acknowledge, a higher Providence directing the misguided zeal of his creatures to his own merciful purposes ; checking the desolating course of the scimeter and the Koran in Europe, by the terrors of the cross and sword in Asia 3 . I am compelled reluctantly to pass over the mustering of 2 The decisions of the Council of " Deus vult," (as it was called from the words in which the unanimous opinion of the assembly was declared God willeth it!) held A. D. 1095, were said to have been known, at the moment of their enactment, through, out Europe. 3 I am not quite sure whether the poet Wordsworth, in his sonnet on the Crusades, whose language I have bor- rowed, has not pleaded a better de- fence than many who have entered more fully into the justification of the " Holy Wars." M. Michaud has con- ferred a benefit on the world by the publication of his valuable Histoire des Croisades ; and the important translations in the Appendix, Biblio- theque des Croisades. 216 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. the mighty hosts under their several leaders, the various for- tunes which they experienced on their passage through Europe, until they were reunited under the walls of Nicaea in Bithynia, the subsequent divisions and disputes of the princes, and the reverses or successes that attended their arms in Asia Minor, before Antioch, in Syria, and Palestine, until the remnant that had escaped the perils of the way sat down under the walls of Jerusalem, on the seventh of June, in the year of our Lord one thousand and ninety-nine. Since the first warning of the impending storm, the Moslem inhabitants of the city had not been inactive. In the course of the same year Afdhal, vizier of the Fatimite khalif el-Mustaly, had succeeded in expelling the Turkish usurpers, and had left it in charge of Emir Iftikar ed- Dauleh. This governor had no sooner heard of the de- parture of the Turks from Antioch, where they had expe- rienced so serious, and he might hope effectual check, than he set himself, by the khalif 's orders, to restore the forti- fications, and -laid in such stores and ammunition as were necessary for the approaching siege 1 . In a general assem- bly held in the court of the great mosk, it was pro- posed to put all the Christian inhabitants to the sword, and to root up the very rock of the Holy Sepulchre, so as to remove for ever the object of this present expe- dition. But perceiving that by this means they would the more exasperate the incensed minds of their dreaded ene- mies, and expose themselves to the risk of extermination in the event of their success, they happily abandoned the design, and satisfied themselves with imposing a tax of enormous amount on the Christians, and expelled from the 1 William of Tyre. Lib. vn. cap. xxiii. p. 343. The siege is described in the viii th book. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 217 city all but the aged, sick, women, and children. The crusaders might have learnt a lesson of moderation from o the humane exception. The walls of the city, at that period much more cir- cumscribed than in earlier tunes, appear to have enclosed the same space occupied by modern Jerusalem B . Three sides, defended for the most part by a natural fosse of immense depth, and the almost precipitous valleys of Jehoshaphat and Hinnom, were inaccessible to the assault of the besiegers: the north alone exposed an approachable front to their attack, but that also frowned defiance from its frequent towers. The princes were encamped in the following order 3 . The prince of Lorrain, Godfrey of Bouillon, occupied the extremity of the left wing, extending from the Valley of Jehoshaphat and opposite to the tower which then filled the north-east angle of the walls. Next to him, on the right, was Count Robert of Flanders, then his namesake of Nor- mandy, and afterwards the renowned Tancred. His posi- tion is determined by the corner-tower, afterwards called by his name, whose substantial ruins in the north-west angle of the city still furnish a valuable topographical mark for the illustration of the historical description 4 . These four generals being thus disposed along the northern line, a position was taken up by the Count Raimond of Tou- louse over against the Tower of David, on the west But as there was little prospect of making an impression on 2 For the changes in the walls of on the spot to examine the ground. Jerusalem, see Biblical Researches, i. This is to me quite inexplicable; no- pp. 384, 469. j thing can be clearer than the account 3 Twenty-two years of study, (I learn from M. Poujoulat, Histoire, Vol. in. p. 156,) could not satisfy M. of the chroniclers, and wonderfully consistent. 4 Dr Robinson coincides doubting- Michaud how the crusaders penetrated i ly. Bib. Res. i. p. 471, note 1. into the city even though he had been 218 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. that quarter, owing to the strength of the tower which defended the Jaffa gate, and the disadvantage of his posi- tion with a deep valley interposed, he was prevailed on to remove half his army to that part of Mount Zion ex- cluded from the city, where he pitched his camp between the walls and the Zion church, which was without range of the enemies' missiles. The siege was then pressed with vigour for five suc- cessive days, on the last of which, after a long and ob- stinate engagement, the Saracens were driven from the outworks, and compelled to confine themselves within the inner wall ; and had the Franks been furnished with scaling ladders for the escalade, that day would have seen them in possession of Jerusalem. But their sufferings were to be yet protracted, or even increased. It was now appa- rent that all their attempts would be ineffectual without machines, and the usual difficulty was experienced in find- ing materials for their construction. At length a Syrian Christian guided them to a valley, six or seven miles distant from the city, where they found timber, not indeed suited to the work, but such as they were glad to avail them- selves of in their present exigency. The trees were felled, conveyed on camels to the city ; and while artificers were engaged on these, the rest of the multitude were employed in forming wattled covering for the machines, in order to protect those who should work them. High and low, rich and poor, emulated each other ; all distinctions of rank were forgotten ; diligence and aptitude for the work were the only recommendations to respect. Meanwhile the Christian host suffered as severely from drought, as they had previously at Antioch from famine. The fountains and wells about the city had been stopped on the first news of their approach. Siloam alone remained, CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 219 but its uncertain and scanty supply was wholly inadequate for an army toiling incessantly during the dog-days, under the oppressive heat of a Syrian sun. The Bethleheraites and Tekoites conducted them to fountains four or five miles distant ; but the enemy sallying from the uninvested part of the city, intercepted the unarmed foragers; and so perilous was the service, that the water which reached the camp was sold at an enormous price. To the horrors of drought, infection was shortly added, from the multitude of cattle that had died for want of pasture ; and while the unrecruited forces of the faithful were daily diminishing by the operation of these causes, the besieged were con- stantly receiving fresh supplies through the open walls, and strengthening the defences of the city. In this extremity, the seasonable arrival of some Genoese vessels at the port of Jaffa, which hardly escaped the Egyptian fleet, revived the flagging spirits of the besiegers. The cargo and crews were convoyed to Jerusalem by an escort from the Count of Toulouse. On their way to the port they had experienced some loss in a skirmish with a much superior force of the enemy, but the loss was fully compensated by the skill of the artificers, whom they succeeded in bringing safely to the camp. They came prepared with all necessary implements, and Raimond, whose funds alone were unexhausted, took them into his employ. Then* ready ingenuity turned even the disasters of the army to account. The animals which had died from starvation, or had been mercifully killed to save them from it, were skinned, and the raw hides nailed over the machines, served as a protection against the fire by which the enemy afterwards sought to destroy them. In four weeks the preparations were completed, and the day fixed for the assault. But in order to secure its sue- 220 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. cess, it was resolved first to propitiate the Almighty by a general humiliation, and a reconciliation of the differences and animosities which existed among princes and people. In long but peaceful array, with bare feet, the clergy in their priestly vestments chanting solemn litanies, they first proceeded to the Mount of Olives, where they were edified by sermons, from Peter the Hermit, and Anculphus, an eloquent friend of Count Robert of Normandy, exhorting them to endurance and the exercise of other Christian graces. They then visited the Church of Zion, where several were wounded from the walls, on which the enemy exposed and insulted the sacred symbol of our salvation. All was now ready. There was a part of the wall between the Damascus Gate and the Valley of Jehoshaphat, which had hitherto been neglected by the besieged, owing to no part of the Christian army being encamped before it. On the night preceding the assault, the Duke Godfrey, despairing of forcing the strongly fortified wall before him, with incredible labour removed his machine in fragments, a distance of half a mile, and under cover of the darkness erected it against this weaker part; the other generals got all in readiness, each in his own quarter. The fashion of all their towers was much the same. They were four-sided, the part turned to the wall being guarded by a double coating, the outer one of which when let down formed a draw-bridge for communication with the wall, while the second covering protected those within the tower. At dawn of day the assault commenced : the soldiers of the cross, animated by one spirit, proposed to themselves only one of two alternatives victory or martyrdom. Even the aged and the sick, women and children, took part in the fight. The machines were moved towards the walls under CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 221 cover of a discharge of stones from engines and slings, but a deep fosse before the outworks impeded the operations of the besiegers, and the stout defence of the Moslems occa- sioned them considerable loss. The fosse was with difficulty filled, the castles advanced to the outworks, and a deadly struggle ensued. The shock of the assailants' missiles was broken by sacks of straw and chaff, or beams and ropes, suspended from the walls. The castles were fired by means of brands attached to darts composed of sulphur, pitch, and oil, with other combustibles, and the flames were scarcely extinguished by streams of precious water. Huge masses of stone hurled from the battlements crushed the legs of the engines, and the soldiers by whom they were manned were thrown headlong to the earth. Meanwhile the catapults on the wall discharged incessant showers of shot with won- derful precision and effect. Night parted the combatants, but though exhausted with the toils of the day, neither party could devote it to repose. The crusaders, apprehensive for the safety of their engines, prepared with so much labour, and on which their success depended, watched anxiously for the morning to renew the assault, while the garrison, no less fearful of a night-attack, paced the walls and guarded the gates, while the elders, passing through the streets of the city, exhorted and en- couraged the people to vigilance and bravery. At length the anxious night, worse than the toilsome day, gave place to the dawn of the memorable 15th of July. The battle raged as on the preceding day, and in addition to the usual arts of war the Moslems called to their aid the charms of sorcery. One very large and destructive engine of the Franks had done terrible execution ; the incantations of two witches were to disarm it of its power : while engaged with their spells on the wall, three girls of their company were 222 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. struck by a mass from the same engine, and fell lifeless from the walls ; a circumstance which occasioned great joy to the Christians and proportionate consternation to the infidels. At length, after seven hours hard fighting, the courage of the weary and dispirited besiegers beginning to flag, they proposed to draw back their battered and smoking engines, which sadly needed repair, and to defer the attack till the following day, devoting the interval to necessary refreshment and repose ; when a timely apparition on Mount Olivet, dis- tinctly seen by Duke Godfrey and his brother Eustachius, from the upper story of their tower, revived the dying em- bers of zeal. The soldiers returned with fresh vigour to the action, and the last and successful struggle commenced. The outworks were carried, and the engines applied to the wall. The besieged averted the strokes of the battering- rams by long beams of great thickness suspended from the battlements by ropes: the soldiers in Godfrey's tower cut the ropes, and the beam fell to the ground. The enemy had thus furnished the means of their own destruction. The drawbridge of the castle was weak and required support, the means of which this beam so opportunely furnished. Under cover of a cloud of smoke, raised from ignited straw and flax, and carried by the wind with blinding effect into the faces of the enemy, the valiant brothers at the head of a chosen band carried the wall, and the besieged fled in all directions. The Franks seeing their comrades in possession of the city, speedily brought their ladders, the northern gate was opened, and the crusaders were masters of Jerusalem. The panic soon spread among the Moslems, the defence was abandoned, and the Count of Toulouse, on the western quarter, ignorant of what had occurred, entered without opposition, and the Zion gate admitted the main body of his followers. It was on a Friday afternoon, at three o'clock, that the city was CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 223 taken ; and the chroniclers do not fail to remark, that it seemed to be divinely ordered that at the very hour and on the self-same day of the week on which our Lord suf- fered for the salvation of the world in that city, His followers were permitted to see the consummation of their wishes in their triumph over His enemies through the might of His name 1 . Alas! the soldiers of the Cross were little mindful of His precepts and example in His dying prayer for His mur- derers. Humanity shudders and religion revolts at the frightful carnage committed under His banner, by these in- human butchers, flushed with victory, thirsting for blood, and wholly devoted to its terrible work 2 . The two generals, advancing from opposite quarters, met in the middle of the city, leaving the ensanguined streets behind them so thickly strewn with the mangled corses of their victims as to be almost impassable, the miserable fugitives being intercepted between the two detachments. Such as escaped immediate death fled to the court of the Temple, and a few to the castle of David. The former became the next object of attack. Tancred was the first to enter, and while his soldiers were busy with carnage he was occupied with rapine, and pillaged the vast riches of the Mosk of Omar. The arrival of the other generals consummated the tragedy. The marble platform of the sacred building was deluged ankle-deep with 1 It is singular, that even a more | per urbem erat strages hostium, tan- remarkable coincidence is mentioned | taque sanguinis effusio, ut etiam vie- by Moslem writers on its recovery by toribus posset tsedium et horrorem in- Saladin. He took it on the anniversary gerere." William of Tyre. The his- of Mohammed's night-journey from torian labours for language, and he Jerusalem to heaven ! ! and others seem to take especial de- 2 " Infidelium cruorem sitiens, et light in describing the sanguinary pro- ad caedem omnino proclivus stra- ceedings. gem operati sunt horrendam. Tanta 224 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. blood, and the mangled limbs of the slaughtered floated on its crimson tide, and the grim aspect of the conquerors, smeared from head to foot with human gore, was not less dreadful than the havoc in which they were engaged. Ten thousand of the enemy are said to have fallen in this con- fined space; the number slain in the city was not to be es- timated. It had been before agreed that the victors should have for their share of the booty what each could seize for himself; and the consequence was that houses were dispos- sessed of their occupants by the indiscriminate slaughter of whole families, some being slain with the sword, others thrown headlong into the streets. The transition in the events of this day fills perhaps the most striking page in the history of enthusiasm. When the arms of the conquerors were wearied, and their swords blunt with slaughter, when guards had been stationed in the towers and at the gates as a precaution against a sudden attack, the whole multitude, having laid aside their weapons, washed their hands and changed their garments ; with bare feet, and groans and tears, the outward indi- cations of a humble spirit and truly contrite heart, mingled with hymns and spiritual songs of praise, proceeded to the venerable places which their Saviour had deigned to adorn and sanctify by His presence, but especially to the scenes of His Passion and Resurrection; kissing and embracing each sacred memorial with indescribable fervour of devotion. Their tears were tears of joy and gratitude ; their sighs and sobs appeared to proceed from hearts wholly inflamed with love, and to ascend as a whole and acceptable burnt-offering to God. To this succeeded works of mercy and bountiful alms-giving. The newly-acquired spoil was bestowed with prodigal profusion on those who had obtained nothing for themselves, and they who, an hour before, with greedy ava- CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 225 rice had seized all on which they could lay hands, now voluntarily impoverished themselves, and counted the privi- lege of this day their all-sufficient reward ! Had the scene closed here the theory of temporary demoniacal possession might have explained their former fury, which nothing could excuse ; but the cold-blooded butchery of the surviving Moslems is the darkest crime of this shocking tragedy. It was committed upon deliberation, contrary to the laws of war, three days after the capture of the city, when the boiling blood of the conquerors had had time to cool, and reason and humanity to resume their controul. Some who had escaped to the roof of the Mosk of Aksa 1 , to whom Tancred had given security for their lives, were put to death in violation of the treaty ; and the same fate would have befallen those in the Tower of David but for the determination of the Count of Toulouse, who enabled them to effect their escape to Ascalon, with their wives and children and baggage. The first act of the assembled princes, after the burial of the dead and purification of the city, was the election of a king. The personal merits and important services of Godfrey, Duke of Lorraine, secured to him their unanimous suffrages, but the haughty spirits of his late compeers did not readily submit to his authority. Count Raymond, who had taken possession of the Castle of David on its evacuation by the Saracens, refused to relinquish his title. He was probably disappointed, and with good reason, in his expectation of the throne ; nor would the electors have disregarded his superior claims, had not his moral character been purposely misrepre- sented by many of his followers, who, anxious for their own 1 Jalal-Addin extends the slaugh- i were slain in the Mosk of Aksa ter to seven days, and says that 70,000 ! alone ! 15 226 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. return to Europe, hesitated not to calumniate their leader in order to effect it. The disputed castle was adjudged to the king, and the count, having in vain attempted to quench his indignation in the waters of the Jordan, soon after re- turned home in disgust. The history of the Frank kingdom in Palestine, inte- resting as it is, can only be slightly glanced at. The early care of the good king was to provide for the worship of God in his capital. Twenty canons were appointed to the church of the Holy Sepulchre, others were attached to the church of Grethsemane, and the dignity of the Mosk of Omar, con- verted into a church under the name of the " Temple of the Lord," was similarly maintained. An altar of white marble was raised upon the sacred rock, and loud are still the lamenta- tions of the Moslems at such grievous desecration, deep their indignation at the violence sustained by es-Sakhrah es-Sherif on this occasion; the marks of which, existing to this day, are a perpetual memorial of the temporary triumph of the faith which they hate or despise. The appointment of a patriarch was the next care. The venerable Symeon, who held that dignity, was absent in Cyprus on the investment of the city. He had gone to that island for the purpose of collecting the exorbitant tax demanded of his church, and had sent presents to the princes during the siege, hoping by their means to be delivered from his oppressors : he died apparently before the capture of the city. The Franks seem not to have entertained the least doubt of their competency to elect a successor from their own body, without the slightest reference either to the local church or to the supreme pontiff of the West ; and the only impediment was, that no candidate worthy of the honour was to be found. A chancellor of the holy church of Jerusalem was therefore appointed until the CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 227 vacancy could be satisfactorily filled ; and the subsequent appointment of unprincipled and mercenary bishops to that dignity was a constant source of trouble to the king and his successors. Godfrey remained in Jerusalem scarcely a fortnight, when he marched to meet the troops of the khalif, which which were completely routed in the battle of Ascalon. The king then marched to the north, and only returned to his capital to die there after a brief reign of twelve months. Boemund, who was appointed to succeed him, being captured by the Turks, Baldwin, the brother of Godfrey, was crowned at Christmas, in the church of Bethlehem : for he would not presume to wear a diadem of gold and jewels where the King of kings and Lord of lords had submitted to wear a crown of thorns for the redemption of the world 1 . But indeed the Frank kings of Jerusalem were doomed to find that the office with which they were invested was no sinecure. The helmet was their crown, the coat of mail their robe of state, the heavens their royal canopy, and the saddle of the war-horse their throne. After sitting in the Palace of Solomon (so they named the Mosk of Aksa) for three days, to administer justice to his subjects, Bang Baldwin I. left the Holy City to prosecute the war for the subjugation of Palestine. One after another the cities and fortresses of the Saracens were compelled to own a foreign lord; and the conquest of Ascalon, the strongest 1 The words are as beautiful as the sentiment : " Noluit enim nee prsesu- sumit in urbe Jerusalem diademate auro vel gemmis pretiosis exaltari nus dominantium humiliatus et obe- diens usque ad mortem pro mundi re- demptione, spinis horridis et acutis coronatus est." Alb. Aq. vii. xliii. adornari et in Regem promoveri, ubi | p. 307. Dominus Jesus, Rex regum et Domi- 152 228 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. garrison in the land, after an obstinate defence, left them at liberty to extend their arms beyond the limits of the Holy Land. Wiser had it been to concentrate their forces within its natural ramparts of rivers and mountains and deserts ; then might the tottering throne of Jerusalem have been strongly supported, instead of falling before the expi- ration of a century. But the fervour of religious zeal had given place to the thirst for glory, and the prevailing cor- ruption of morals among the Franks deprived them of their strongest support. Only the warrior-monks of the Temple, and the knights of the Hospital of St John, maintained their devotion to the Holy Sepulchre unimpaired, and earned for themselves a deathless fame, which the cruel calumnies of powerful enemies and persecutors, bent upon then* destruc- tion, has not been able to blast. The former college originated in the voluntary devo- tion of a small band of noble knights, binding themselves to the protection of the Christian pilgrims, associated under the name of " The poor fellow-soldiers of Jesus Christ 1 ." The foundation dates from a period little posterior to the capture of the city, in which they had distinguished them- selves ; but they had no fixed place of abode until the nine- teenth year of the Frank kingdom, when Baldwin assigned them the Palace or Temple of Solomon for their habita- tion. This building, erected by Justinian, had undergone many extensive repairs during the Saracen domination 2 ; but it is probable that the hospitals formerly connected with it were still standing, and, with the addition of other buildings, would afford accommodation to the augmented numbers of 1 I refer with great satisfaction to " The Knights Templars," by C. G. Addison, Esq. of the Inner Temple, for the history of this body; a work to which I am much indebted in the few following pages. * See above, p. 206. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 229 the Templars 3 . The powerful advocacy of St Bernard, the distinguished abbot of Clairvaux, created an enthusiastic in- terest in their behalf; their recognition in the council of Troves, and the confirmation of their rule by a papal bull, gave them the fullest sanction of the Church ; and the order soon became the most popular in Europe*. Kings and princes of the highest name felt that they honoured themselves by its patronage, and lands and manors and churches were given or bequeathed to it in various nations 5 , until its rich endowments tempted the cupidity of the sove- reigns, and finally led to its irretrievable ruin. In the immediate neighbourhood of the church of the Holy Sepulchre is a large heap of ancient ruins, entered by a gateway, whose fragments, exhibiting a variety of rich and exquisite ornament 6 , with a Latin inscription on the cornice, not easily deciphered, will tempt the architect or an- tiquary to pause and examine it, notwithstanding the very disgusting odours of the neighbouring tannery. The deserted wreck itself will amply repay a visit. From the ruined apse of a large church a flight of steps leads up to a small court surrounded by a cloistered corridor, on the south side of which are three large rooms in a fair state of preservation. The northernmost of these, whose shell is entire, was for- merly a chapel, as is still evident from its appearance ; albeit the sacred building is now desecrated as a depository for dung for the fires of a neighbouring bath. These are the 3 Addison's Templars, p. 10, &c. 2d Ed. Something has been said of this building above, and much more must be said hereafter. See above, p. 206. 4 Templars, p. 14, &c. An abstract of the rule is given, pp. 18 29. s For a list of their possessions and privileges, see Templars, pp. 94, &c. and 334. 6 The diaper-work on this gate- way, and the lace-work round the small square-headed doorway, with a curious key-stone, which gives entrance to the gallery, are beautifully exe- cuted, and the latter is in perfect pre- servation. 230 THE HOLY CITY. [PAKT I. remains of the hospital of the Knights of St John, another religious order, which claims a passing notice. There were two hospitals, one for males, the other for females, with chapels dedicated, the former to St Mary Magdalene, the latter to St John, the almsgiving patriarch of Alexandria, whose interest in Jerusalem, already recorded, fairly enti- tled him to such a memorial 1 . They were founded by the merchants of Amalfi in the eleventh century, and the self- denying charity of the society, whose original duties consisted in attending the sick and destitute pilgrims whom devotion had attracted to the city, challenged the admiration of the crusaders, while the zeal of the latter added fresh fuel to the devotion of the Hospitallers. They resolved to devote them- selves to their self-imposed task by the bond of monastic vows, and assumed a distinguishing habit, and the honour- able title of " Guardian of the Poor " was conferred on their superior. Subsequently they undertook the protection of the pilgrims, after the manner of the Templars. Both the mili- tary orders had soon to extend their operations, and to arm in defence of the kingdom itself. The Seljukian sultans had given place in their turn to their servants the Atabeks 8 , a formidable race of warriors, whose name became terrible to the Frank power in the East. Zenghi, the founder of the dynasty, recovered Antioch and Edessa from their hands, and spoiled them of their conquests east of the Euphrates ; his son and successor Nour-ed-din, an able and generous per- 1 A fuller account of the institution of the Knights of St John may be seen in Addison's Templars, p. 61, &c. See also Biblical Researches, ii. pp. 44, 45, and note. '* For this revolution, and the reigns of Zenghi, and Nour-ed-din, and Sala- din, see the authorities referred to by Gibbon, cap. lix. An interesting es- say on the Khalifate of Bagdad during the latter half of the 12th century, by Mr F. Lebrecht, will be found in the second volume of Asher's edition of Benjamin of Tudela. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 231 secutor of the Christian faith 3 , waged incessant and successful war with them in Syria and Egypt, where he extinguished the race of the Fatimite khalifs, and restored the spiritual supremacy of Bagdad ; leaving to his nephew, the redoubted Salah-ed-din, the task of crushing the Frank kingdom of Jerusalem, whose strength was greatly reduced not only by defeats in the field, but by division and treason in the cabinet. In place of Godfrey and his valiant companions, the guardianship of the Holy City had devolved on a leper, a child, a woman, a coward, and a traitor 4 ; its strength lay in the divisions of its enemies ; and the consolidation of the Moslem power by the victories of Saladin was the signal for its overthrow. In the year A. D. 1186, Guy of Lusignan succeeded to the throne, under suspicious circumstances, through his connexion by marriage with Sybilla, the sister of the fourth, and mother of the fifth Baldwin, by a for- mer husband. The fidelity of the most powerful vassal prince, Count Raymond of Tripoli, had been alienated by disappoint- ment, his malice thirsted for revenge, and to his secret under- standing with the enemy are ascribed the calamities which ensued. The truce which protected the Franks against the Moslems was rashly violated by the former, and that in a manner most calculated to exasperate their enemies. The 3 " Noradinus maximus nominis et fidei Christianae persecutor; princeps tamen Justus, vafer, providus, et se- cundum gentis SUK traditiones religi- osus." Will. Tyr. xx. xxxiii. Abul- pharagius, p. 267, gives even a higher character. 4 The words are Gibbon's. The succession of the Frank kings of Jeru- salem was as follows : 1 . Godfrey. 2. Baldwin I. brother. 3. Baldwin II. cousin. 4. Melisenda, daughter. 5. Bid win III. son. 6. Amaury, brother. 7. Baldwin IV. son. 8. Baldwin V. nephew. 9. Guy of Lusignan, husband of Sybilla, mother of the above. 232 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. caravans of pilgrims to Mecca were attacked, the sacred cities themselves threatened, and satisfaction for the out- rages refused. Saladin was not slow to profit by the opportunity thus afforded him: he invaded the kingdom with a force of 80,000 men. The disastrous battle of Ti- berias shattered the Christian power, delivered the king and princes into the hands of the enemy, and left the un- defended cities of Palestine an easy prize to the conqueror 1 . The warlike monks of the Hospital and of the Temple, whose black and white standard, Beauseant, had been distinguished in the thickest part of the fight, were almost annihilated in the fatal encounter : and such as were taken were led forth to execution on the following day. Refusing, to a man, the offer of life on the condition of apostacy, they calmly pre- pared for death ; at sunset they looked down from the moun- tain of Beatitudes, on the fairest scene hi Palestine, on a lake conscious of the voice of Him whose sign they bore, then entered at His call on the unfathomed depth before them, in full confidence of His upholding arm. Three months after the battle of Tiberias, eighty-eight years after the conquest of the crusaders, the green and yellow banners of the Moslems were unfurled before the walls of Jerusalem, at the hour of evening prayer. The enthusiasm of the army of Saladin on beholding the walls of their Beit-el-Makuddus, and the sacred domes of es-Sakh- rah and el-Aksa, was little less intense than had been that of the Christian army on its first approach ; the terror of the besieged Saracens on that occasion could not exceed that of the Christians now. Every mark of humiliation which super- 1 See a lively account of this battle, otherwise called the Battle of Hattin, with its causes and consequences, in Robinson, Bib. Res. in. 242 249, where the original authorities are re- ferred to. See also Addison's Tem- plars, 149163. CH. IV .] THE HOLY CITY. 233 stition could invent or devotion practise, was had recourse to by the inhabitants to avert the wrath which their sins had provoked. The day of grace had passed, the God of battles had deserted their standard ; yet so gallantly did the brave defenders resist the violent assaults of the infidels for fifteen successive days, the clergy and monks assisting on the walls amid showers of arrows aimed with unerring precision and deadly effect, that Saladin was compelled to suspend his operations until the construction of engines should enable him to prosecute them with surer success. A fortnight was consumed in these preparations, and from that time the bat- tering rams were plied with unwearied diligence, night and day, by ten thousand soldiers. All the efforts of the Moslems were directed to that part of the wall between the gates of Damascus 8 and Joppa, on the north side of the city, but west of the point where Godfrey had effected his entrance. All the arts of war were called into service by the besiegers, which neither prayers nor invocations could defeat ; a mine was formed at the north-west angle of the wall, a breach effected, and the defence abandoned. Happily the sultan de- ferred the assault ; but no bribes could induce the dispirited soldiers to stop the gap, and on the following day it was carried. A proposal to surrender on terms was rejected with scorn, and the hour of retribution for the former enormities of the crusaders seemed to have arrived ; but despair had succeeded to fear in the hearts of the Christians : the few * Should Mr Addison, to whose full and most interesting account, p. 172, &c. (extracted from the narrative of an eyewitness of these scenes) I am here indebted, see this note, and take the trouble to consult the first part of the last chapter but one in this volume, he will understand why I substitute for modem readers "Damascus" for " St Stephen," and will probably avail himself of this and some few other corrections, in a future edition of his work ; which deserves to go through many. 234 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. knights of the two military orders, who still remained, were the salvation of their brethren, in their last extremity. They charged the enemy with determined resolution, and drove them from the breach ; and Saladin, fearing further results of their desperation, now listened to the proposal which he had lately rejected ; a capitulation much more lenient than they had a right to expect was granted, and the Moslems took quiet possession of the city. Ten gold bizants for every man, five for women, and one for children under seven years of age, was the price stipulated for liberty and security; hard terms indeed for the poorer class, whom they necessarily enslaved, but infinitely easier than those which they had proposed under similar circumstances death in war, or death in peace. The Templars and Hospitallers, faithful to their vows, devoted all their funds to rescue their poorer brethren, whom they escorted in safety to Tripoli; but many were led captive by their conquerors, and bitter were their tears in the house of their bondage 1 . The dismay of Christendom at the fall of Jerusalem was equalled only by the joy of the Moslems at its recovery, which they celebrated with all imaginable tokens of grati- tude. The Koran was restored to the pulpit, the voices of the Muezzim again called to prayer, the mosks rung with the shout of victory and the confession of Islam. The holy rock was disencumbered from its abominations, and extreme was the horror of the Moslems to discover that it had suf- fered diminution by violence. The walls and pavement were 1 It is computed that 14,000 men, women, and children, were reduced to slavery at this time. Addison's Tern- plars, p. 178. Jalal-Addin, p. 221, complains that universal corruption was practised by those who collected the ransom, but that 100,000 dinars came into the treasury notwithstand- ing (p. 221); before and after which is a full and wordy account of these transactions, which I use. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 235 purified from Christian defilement with rose-water from Da- mascus, the golden cross, torn from its height to be replaced by the crescent, was dragged in dishonour through the streets amid the triumphant exultation of the Moslems, while the weeping Christians tore their hair, beat their breasts, and rent their garments at the heart-rending sight of such awful desecration ! The lodgings of the Templars on the west of el-Aksa, with their granaries and offices, were removed, all things were restored to their former condition, and the mosques richly furnished with lamps and carpets. The sultan soon afterwards left for Tyre, having written an account of his successes to the khalif of Bagdad, and given the necessary instructions for the repair of the for- tifications 2 . After an ineffectual attempt upon Tyre, he departed to Damascus. But the gallant defence of Tyre by the youthful Conrad of Montferrat, the arrival of the Emperor Frederic Barba- rossa, of Philip Augustus of France, and Richard Plantagenet of England; the long and obstinate siege of Acre, and its ultimate surrender to the Christians ; their slow advance along the coast, debating every inch of ground with de- termined valour until they reached the mountain-barrier of Judaea, whose narrow defiles, guarded by the squadrons of Sa- ladin, defied their further progress ; these, with the daring deeds of the military friars, and the feats of prowess dis- played by the lion-hearted monarch hi the fields of Ascalon, must be sought for in other quarters 3 : only one effect of this formidable but unsuccessful enterprize can be mentioned here. On the advance of the Christian army towards the south, 2 Addison's Templars, p. 182, &c. 3 The reader cannot do better than consult the interesting volume so often referred to above, from the pen of Mr Addison. 236 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. through the bloody fields of Csesarea and Arsouf, the fortifi- cations of Ascalon, Lydda, and Ramlah, were demolished by the sultan, who determined to concentrate all his forces on the principal point of attack 1 . He repaired in person to Jerusalem to superintend the preparations for defence which were there in progress. He took up his quarters in the deserted hospital of the Knights of St John, and devoted all his energies to the work. The labourers furnished by the governor of Mosul, aided by 2000 Christian prisoners, were employed in digging a deep fosse, and erecting a wall of massive stones with the materials thus provided. Their principal exertions were directed to the northern part of the wall, between the Damascus gate and that of the great Altar, afterwards called the gate of Abraham 2 , formerly the most assailable part of the fortifications, but now strengthened with bastions. Aadel prince of Kerak, brother of Saladin, was set over the work, but the sultan himself was personally present from morning to night, encouraging the workmen by his exhortations, and stimulating them by his own ex- ample : bringing stones in the saddle-cloth on his horse, until his zeal was emulated by the inhabitants of all con- ditions, and the work of many years was accomplished in six months. But the precautions were unnecessary. The Christians were effectually checked at Beit-nubah, or La- trun, the entrance to the hill-country of Judaoa ; once indeed a party forced its way as far as Kolonia, not more than five miles from the city, but were glad to save themselves 1 I have followed the Arabic his- tory of Jerusalem, contained in a French translation in Von Hammer'n Fundgraben des Orients, Vol. iv. pp. 216237. 3 The Damascus gate is called by my author Bab-el-Amoud, the gate of the column, by which name it is still known. The other gate I cannot iden- tify, but I think it must be the small gate now closed, marked as the gate of Herod, east of the Damascus gate. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 237 by a precipitate retreat. Soon after a truce was concluded, and the English king set out on his disastrous return. The combined armament of the three most potent mo- narchs of Europe arrived either too late or too early to accomplish its object. Had it reached Palestine in time to prevent the fatal battle of Tiberias, or to secure the victory of the Christian arms, or after that the death of Saladin had left his dominions to be weakened by the divisions or dissi- pated by the rivalry of his successors, the crusaders might have retained or renewed possession of the Holy City. But now all was vain. On the death of Saladin, his son Efdhal succeeded to the government of Syria, and another son, Aziz, to the throne of Egypt. The latter conspired with his uncle Aadel to expel Efdhal from Damascus, and Aadel seized the govern- ment of Syria. Aziz died shortly after, leaving as his successor Mansour-Mohammud his son, a child of nine years 3 . The emirs invited his uncle Efdhal to the regency, which he accepted. An unsuccessful attempt to revenge his wrongs, and recover his former dominion from the usurper, led to his ruin, and Aadel became master of Egypt, which he governed nineteen years ; when on his death his dominions were again divided between his two sons, Moazzam Yosa and Kamel Abd-el Maali Mohammud ; the former of whom pos- sessed himself of Syria, leaving Egypt to his brother. It was during this reign, when the Franks had taken Damietta by assault, that Yosa, fearing their projects against Jeru- salem, sent a party of sappers and miners to destroy its 3 The history of the Eyoub dy- nasty, after the death of Saladin, is contained in the same Arabic history, continued in Vol. v. pp. 145 156, in Fundgraben dea Orients. See also, Jalal-Addin, p. 264, &c. Addison's Templars contains all the events of the crusaders at this period, from the best authorities. 238 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. fortifications, and the city was wholly dismantled. Two years later it was proposed by the brothers to cede Jeru- salem, Ascalon, Tiberias, and all the places on the coast conquered by Saladin, retaining only Kerak and Chaubek, on condition of the Franks evacuating Damietta. The liberal proposal was rashly declined ; an indemnity of 300,000 ducats being demanded for the demolition of the walls of Jerusalem, in addition to the cession of the reserved for- tresses. The Franks were soon after forced to capitulate, under very different terms the unconditional surrender of their highly-valued prize ! A few years after this, the reinforcement of the Franks and the divisions of the house of Eyoub, put the former in possession of the ruins of Jerusalem : Kamel of Egypt, medi- tating an attack on his nephew Nasir David, the successor of Yosa at Damascus, entered into a correspondence with the Emperor Frederic the Second, then the champion of the Christian cause in the East, which resulted in an armistice on the following conditions. The Franks were to receive Jerusalem with its ruined walls, which they were not to rebuild, nor to violate the sanctity of es-Sakhrah es-Sherif, or of Masjid-el-Aksa, but Christians and Moselms should have equal liberty to visit and worship at those holy places. Lastly, only the villages on the road from Acre to Jerusalem should belong to the Christians. Thus was Jerusalem again delivered over to the Franks, to the infinite disgust of the Moslems ; and Nasir did not neglect the opportunity thus afforded him of injuring the reputation of his uncle, by pro- curing an eloquent preacher to pronounce a panegyric on the Beit-el-Makuddus, and the injury done to Islam by its sur- render to the infidels. His touching elegy drew tears from the auditors ! At the close of ten years, Saleh Nejmed-din Eyoub, the CH. IV.J THE HOLY CITY. 239 son of Kamel, having received intimation that the Franks, in contravention of the stipulation, were engaged in repairing the wall of Jerusalem, marched to the city. Having be- sieged and taken it, he levelled with the ground the Castle and Tower of David, which had been spared on its former demolition. Once again after this it reverted to the posses- sion of the Franks, four years after their expulsion; when they availed themselves of their unrestricted liberty to re- build its walls and occupy its mosks ; and a worthy dis- ciple of the prophet, who passed through Jerusalem during the period of their occupation, has recorded with expres- sions of horror that he had seen with his own eyes the pro- fanation of the noble rock, by cups of wine placed on it by the monks ; and other scenes scarcely less afflictive. But the heart of Kadi Jemal-ed-din Ibn-Wasil was soon com- forted. The approach of the wild Carizmian hordes, in- vited to the aid of the Sultan of Egypt, alarmed the small garrison of the city ; its defence was declared hopeless, its walls abandoned to the invaders, and the disastrous battle at Gaza hastened the downfal of the Christian cause in the East. The subsequent history of Jerusalem may be told in few words. The defenceless state of the city was the pro- tection of its inhabitants from further molestation during the expiring struggles of the crusaders, whose ruin was hastened by the conquests of Bendocdar, the first Mamluk sultan of Egypt, and consummated by the fall of Acre before the victorious arms of Kelason. The historical importance of Jerusalem terminates with the expulsion of the Franks from the country. As a military position it would be utterly insignificant in modern warfare, did not the approaches to the city and the mountains which command it present a serious obstacle to the operations of heavy artillery. Its 240 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. inhabitants have acted wisely, however, in not trying the fortune of war. At the commencement of the 16th century the Mamluk sultans exercised little more than a nominal jurisdiction over Syria. A western traveller 1 , who visited the Holy City A.D. 1507, with letters from the Egyptian court, purchased at a high price at Cairo, derived little benefit from them at Jerusalem. The governor indeed received them with every token of submission and reverence, placing them on his head and kissing them; but "backshish a " alone could open his heart, and unclose the doors of the Holy Sepulchre to the pilgrims. Ten years after this, the shadow of power vanished before the arms of the Ottoman sultan, Selim I. A.D. 1517, who visited Jerusalem in person both before and after his conquest of Egypt. His successor Soleiman (A.D. 1542) erected a monument at Jerusalem, which remains to this day, in the well-built walls which surround the city ; and his name is perpetuated, but probably not immortalized, by in- scriptions in various parts. From this period the Holy City has been the scene of a warfare of a different character, the circumstances of which I pass over without regret to myself or injury to the reader 3 . Not a year, scarcely a month, 1 Bauragarten visited Palestine in 1507. His words are: "Nihil tune nobis liter Soldani...profuerunt, pro quibus octo seraphos in Cayro ex- promseramus ; licet eas dominus Hie- rosolymse cum summa acceptas et ex- osculatas reverentia, capitique suo su- perimpositas legisset...ad nummos ire oportebat, eorum uti opera, eorum fulciri presidio. Datis itaque viginti seraphis intrandi templi et sepulchri vendita nobis licentia." Peregriuatio, p. 81. One might imagine it written last year ! a " Backshish," or " present," is the first and last word which will ring in a traveller's ears who now visits this country. 8 A full account of this period I have met with in M. MouraviefPs History, but it is not only most un- edifying, but deeply distressing and humiliating. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 241 has passed for three successive centuries without disputes between the three principal Christian communities which divide the sacred city. Suffice it here to say, that the limits fixed to their respective possessions within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, as shown in the coloured Plan, have been invaded by hostile encroachments, and defended, inch by inch, with an animosity which, however creditable to their veneration for the holy places, is most disgraceful in every other view. It was even suspected that the destruction of the sacred building by fire, at the commencement of this century, was the result of the disappointment of the Ar- menians in a contest for the acquisition of power over the Greek possessions in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre; and although the charge is not proved by the mere fact of the fire having originated in their church, yet the imputation of such awful sacrilege demonstrates the spirit that animates those who could insinuate it. Though the circumstances of that fire are not of sufficient interest to call for a detailed account, the only fact which I would record is certainly a most remarkable one. The heat was so excessive that the marble columns which surrounded the circular building hi the centre of which stood the Holy Grotto, were completely pulverized. The lamps and chandeliers, with the rest of the vessels of the church, brass and silver and gold, were melted like wax ; the molten lead from the immense dome which covers the Holy Sepulchre poured down in torrents ; yet the Holy Cave itself received not the sh'ghtest injury, externally or internally ; the silk hangings and ornaments remaining unscathed by the flame, the smell of fire not even having passed upon them 4 . 4 I have read the Greek account of by M. Mouravieff; and the Frank the fire in the History of Jerusalem, version, by a Frenchman, in Mr Arun- 16 242 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. This sad calamity happened on the 12th of October, 1808, and destroyed both the churches of the Resurrection and of the Holy Golgotha, and all the buildings connected with them. They were restored in the following year, at an immense expense, chiefly borne by the Greek Christians, and so exactly after the model of the former building, that they might be thought identical. Jerusalem has since shared the fortunes of Syria, with- out having in any way guided them, or being materially affected by them. It passed into possession of Ibrahim Pasha in 1832, and was restored to the Ottoman power after the memorable bombardment of Acre, in November, 1840 1 ; having in the interim suffered the dishonour of a capture from the undisciplined Fellahin the "bold peasantry" of Palestine, who held possession of it for some weeks. It has latterly enjoyed the distinction of a resident pasha, having been formerly subject to the pashalic of Damascus; but since the united wisdom of Europe has thought fit to destroy despotism and restore anarchy in the country, it has ex- perienced, as may be supposed, a questionable security ; the tranquillity of which is liable at any moment to be disturbed by the lawless sheiks of the country, whose violence Ibrahim Pasha was alone able to repress by the terrors of the sword. Even while I write a report has reached Europe, that in a late outbreak of one of the most powerful chiefs in the country, he has had the insolence to attack the Holy City ! So low has she now fallen who defied for months the arms of Imperial Rome ! del's Illustrations of Jerusalem, &c. p. 46, &c. which is within the reach of English readers. The accounts are consistent with each other. 1 An account of the return of Jeru- salem to its allegiance to the Porte, may be seen (if any one cares to see how revolutions are managed at Jerusalem) in Mr John's work on the Anglican Cathedral Church, &c. p. 4, note 1. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 243 And now, who shall venture to dissipate the darkness of that night hi which the wisdom of Providence has been pleased to envelope the events of futurity? Who shall declare the future destinies of the Holy City ? That it is yet to be the theatre of great and important actions, may be concluded with sufficient warrant from the language of inspiration; and some who have most deeply studied the pages of prophecy, look to it as the appointed scene of the last great struggle of antichrist, and of the revelation of the Son of Man 2 . The restoration of the Jews is by many expected to precede this final consummation; and the remarkable preservation of that wonderful people must be regarded as a striking confirmation of their view who plead for a literal fulfilment of prophecy, besides that higher spi- ritual interpretation which has met with its accomplishment hi the people of Christ, who are "Abraham's seed, and heirs according to the promise." Whether the declining power of the Ottoman empire will retain its feeble hold of Palestine until the hour for that restoration arrive, it were presumption to determine. The days of that empire seem indeed to be numbered, and infatuation, the precursor of destruction, is apparent hi its counsels. Are the Jews as yet prepared to receive their possessions, if such be indeed the Divine purpose concerning them? Awful indeed were the prospect of their restoration in an unconverted state. The preceding pages have shewn how the spirit with which they they are animated against the disciples of Christ has manifested itself on various occasions, without provo- cation ; and when we call to mind the many centuries of oppression and bloody persecution which they have endured, * I shall not be expected to enter on a prophetical disquisition. I only adopt what appears to myself the most probable interpretation of Holy Scrip- ture ; but I hope I should not dare to dogmatize on a subject so awful. 162 244 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. without the opportunity of retaliation or revenge, the long catalogue of wrongs and insults meekly borne, but trea- sured up in the dark recesses of the unregenerate heart against a day of retribution, who can contemplate without a shudder the consequences of their speedy restoration to power and political independence? If, then, in mercy to the Church, their restoration be delayed until the blessed influences of the gospel of Christ have penetrated their hearts, enlightening them with the precepts of love, and teaching them to bless and pardon their persecutors, what is to be the condition of Palestine during this interval? I cannot forbear adducing the opinion of a popular French writer on this subject 1 . It need scarcely be said that the first object in a plan of operations in any part of the globe, must, according to a Frenchman's theory, be the humiliation of England ; " that terrible vulture of the political world, who has pounced upon Mount Lebanon, the borders of the Nile, the Red Sea, and the Indian Ocean; whose only idea of civilization is to convert the world to her own advantage. The welfare of the human race de- mands that vigorous obstacles be offered to the monstrous developement of Britain's power. In order that the fall of the Ottoman empire may subserve the cause of civiliza- tion in the East, she must be checked. The only means to effect this is the union of France and Russia. The active and persevering spirit of the latter, requires the genius of France to enable her to fulfil her destinies; and France, on her side, demands this grand support to enable 1 M. Poujoulat, Histoire de Jeru- salem, p. 275. I only adduce the pas- sage as a specimen of French policy in the East, and as a hook on which to hang a few remarks. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 245 her to triumph over an enemy whose glory is of neces- sity the abasement of her own. Austria will of course assist. This accomplished, France, the champion of the faith, guided by her conquering genius, is to plant the Cross on all the Asiatic capitals, as thirty years ago she planted her standard on all the capitals of Europe; and the regeneration of the East is to be accomplished by her missionaries 2 f Now, without advancing any claim to political discern- ment, still less to prophetic prescience, I venture to pro- nounce that there is no combination further without the reach of probability than this no expectations less likely to be realized. Russia must forget the French invasion and the sacking of Moscow both must forget the memora- ble retreat for which Russia offers her annual Te Deum, before such a coalition as that here contemplated can be effected ; and the holy orthodox Church of the East, the church of the Russian empire, must acknowledge the pa- pal supremacy, whose claims she has resisted since they were first advanced, before she will delegate to French priests the duties which she is commissioned to perform. The protection of the oppressed Christians in the East has devolved on the Autocrat of Russia; it his high preroga- tive, it is his solemn duty as a Christian and as a faith- ful son of the holy Church catholic. That duty he will perform. The establishment of the orthodox Church in his dominions commends it to his special regard; the extension of then* limits so as to comprehend the seat of the chief 3 This flourish will be thought to be exaggerated by me ; I can assure the reader that I translate the nonsense verbatim, and have omitted as much equally silly. But the passage will repay a perusal. 246 THE HOLY CITY. [PART i. patriarch of the Armenians, has entitled that important community to his countenance and support; and the fact, of the frontiers of the two most formidable Mahommedan powers bordering on his immense empire, gives a weight to his arbitration which no other Christian sovereign can exercise. And I confess that when I observed the silent and beneficial influence of Russia, as exercised by her re- presentatives in the East, with a degree of impartiality which I did not expect, but especially when I contrasted it with the busy, restless interference of the French political agents, aiming only at the aggrandisement of Rome, with a love too fierce even for its favoured objects, I could not participate in the jealous and suspicious fears with which my countrymen are wont to regard Russian diplomacy. And further, when I discovered that the laws of Russia have contrived to reconcile the firmest possible support to the national church, with the greatest degree of toleration to other religious communities, better than any country 1 , I could not but feel that the extension of those laws might prove most salutary to the East in its present distracted state. On the other hand, the suppression of many an- cient sees in Georgia, on its annexation to the empire at the commencement of the last reign, with the subjection of the whole Church to the Holy Governing Synod of Russia, whose constitution is not unexceptionable in itself, and which certainly could exercise no rightful jurisdiction over inde- pendent bishops without the free consent of their church, had led me to apprehend an uncanonical interference with 1 In proof of the former, I appeal to the Ustaf, or Code of Laws for the Regulation of the Holy Governing Synod, &c. &c. ; and to the testimony of foreign residents in Russia for the latter. CH. IV.] THE HOLY CITY. 247 the ancient patriarchates, in the event here contemplated. But these apprehensions have been much allayed by the liberal and enlightened policy displayed on occasion of the late vacancy in the highest dignity of the Armenian church, when a free election 2 by the whole body was not only allowed, but invited and ensured, by the high authority of an imperial ukase; and if the report of some late enact- ments had awakened alarm in behalf of the Jews, whose interests demand the second consideration in all views of Eastern politics, a more accurate knowledge of the facts of the case, and the very promulgation of an edict affect- ing them, dictated by a spirit of consideration worthy of a Christian monarch 3 , has convinced me that the lives and liberties of the Israelites would be no less safe in the cus- tody of Russia than of any other Christian power. England has already shown what she can and what she will do in the East. She spread the wings of her protection to adopt the Frenchman's comparison of the vulture over the persecuted Jews at Damascus, because they were friendless and oppressed; and if she did light 8 " The free election of the Patri- arch Narcissus to the highest dignity of the Armenian church, which took place at Etchmiazine, April 17th, 1843, and was confirmed by an imperial ukaze, August 10th, in the same year, is the more honourable to the emperor, because there was not the slightest doubt of the unanimous election of a prelate who had been so unfortunate as to fall under the suspicion or dis- pleasure of the government. That prelate was so elected, and no objection offered. The appointment had been for centuries in the hands of the Porte, where all has been carried by bribery. Who would not desire that the most disgraceful simoniacal proceedings, re- lating to the orthodox patriarchate of Constantinople, might be terminated in the same manner? and what other European sovereign would permit a free election by the whole Church ?" 3 I allude to an ukaze, dated Gat- china, November 13 25, 1844, ad- dressed to the minister of public in- struction, relating to the education of the Jews. 248 THE HOLY CITY. [PART I. upon Mount Lebanon for awhile, it was that she might defend the lives and liberties of the Maronites, endangered by the fury of the Druses, or the bigotry of the Turks; and this she did for the name of Christ which they bore, though she knew them to be the stanchest Romanists in the world. She procured for the Syrian Jacobites an order for the restoration of six churches and monasteries between Damascus and Aleppo, which the Latins, aided by their French allies, had unjustly seized ; and this she did not from enmity against Rome or France, still less from sympathy with Monophysite heresy, but as an act of justice, which had been grossly outraged. This is the gauge of England's policy in the East. She will protect the weak against their oppressors, without respect of persons. She will procure the administration of evenhanded justice to all alike as far as her influence extends. Nay, she has done much more. Acting through the moral weight of her ambassador to the Porte, whose uncompromising firmness and irreproach- able uprightness command the respect while they provoke the hatred of the most corrupt court in the world, she has broken down the mighty barrier of Mahommedan pre- judices, and cast an aegis over all the Christians of the East, beneath which they may henceforth enjoy full liberty of conscience, free from the terrors of penal statutes; and she will use all her endeavours that those merciful enact- ments be respected in their fullest meaning. This is what England has done ; this is what, by God's help, she will continue to do ; and woe to those who attempt to check her while she holds on in this course. Rather let the other nations of Europe imitate her enlightened policy ; and if the balance of power can only be maintained by uphold- ing the integrity of the Ottoman empire, at least let them CH. IV. THE HOLY CITY. 249 provide that its protracted existence occasion no detriment to the Christian name, nor hinder the progress of that faith to which they owe all the superiority, moral, religi- ous, and political, which they now enjoy over that power which was once the terror of the world. O 10 REFERENCE i Knit-,,,,,-.- 1,, /; chard, -> vi.,,:- /;,,- ,i,.. Turkish d.ar,!., 3Ste,ne,,fi;,cli,,n 4 Toixl, ,.f Xi,,,/ C,,,,lfre\- BToKbofSxng JMdwi,, (') 'In, nli /' Meldiitcdech 7 O^rclofStJohnthc lianiist IcAdam, 8 Fissure in Hie met- nf <; /,///, VRahina rooms 10 Aliar of the Armenian., 11 Hare where ihr lifrirflin Mary .,/,/ whfii ll,.-l,o,ly,,l'l'l,rist -was anointed VI K,,lr:,, u -c l:.li,,-l,,,l,,,n, lx ,.flh f Ar,n f m ani 13 Place ofiht Stan- rollc,) fn,m the, Sepulrh, 14 Tn If f ' 15 Allnroflhe Copts Hi _///,, ./'//I,- .frri.in.f 17 Ton,/,,,!-.!,,.,;'.,,!, a- \,,;,,l,., l ,, l . f 18 7^^ ../nVi !/// I,,,,,,;;',,/ \'.1 <'i-nll;-,,t't/ir<;,;;-l; C/1,,,1-/, 'K> Stalls fa-Monks -'I .s,,,/ ///, P,,h-iarch,fJeni, 22 SeatfoMiei other Patriarchs ~>3 77,r IL-onortM l'l, ln - ,,f il,,- ',,, of the Patriarch i/i the likfnrs.s nfa Gardener 28 Where Mary ifaqiialfne, stood, 30 Par! of the Pillar to which our Lord wag bound 31 Clum-l, ,,nl,,-Jt,,,,,,,,, tatnolia 32 FloTf. in which our Lord appeared, to If is Mother fi/}rr hl.f Jtr.rurrecti'arv 33 Place,,/'//,,- r.:;,,i,,ilionofau- Ovss 34oh'nff plate forthc franks 35 The bonds ofnu-i.il 36 Chapel of the yirqirv 37 ChapAtrfLonyima the Centurion :J8 Chanel ot'lheiH,rlii, ;l ,-f,,,,rlm^ <,uru,cn .'!!> OupttofAcmodJng, whenualn the. /ill,,,-,:,, ,,-l,i,-h ,:, /;/ ... .,-,/,-,/ 1O Stain going Jotm I'url nine xl,-)i.-. rft'/tt 42 Chufielnfilu-Prtiitenl Thief -I.", .V \6ov naddtrep Kopvfyi) TI w^tjXorepa irpodveiyev eli rptaKovra Trtjxeis, it-Trip i)v ol irvpyoi Keifievoi iro\v oj ri tov (jiCTetopov TiyxxreXa/i/Jafoi/." J. W. V. iv. 4. 1 Ibid. i. x*i. 1. 8 Ibid. v. iv. 4. 8 Ibid. ii. xv. 6, and xvii. 7, 8. 4 Ibid. v. xi. 4. CH. I.] THE HOLY CITY. 263 have been somewhere east of the three towers, which " the Romans could not assail with their machines and towers 5 " on account of their great strength, aided as it was by the cliff below 6 , which would probably continue some further distance, and present an obstacle to the erection of the engines ; while the latter was also west of the second wall ; for not only would the existence of a sepulchral monument within the old city be unaccountable, whereas it would be quite natural within that which had been lately enclosed ; but while the crowded buildings of the old city would have obstructed the operations of the soldiers, had the bank been raised within that wall, there would be no such impediment in this part of the new city, which was thinly inhabited 7 , and the outer wall once taken, afforded an easy passage to the third or inner wall, through which Titus had hoped to take the upper city. It is not true then, as Dr Robinson asserts, that Jose- phus " assumed the tower Hippicus as the starting point in his description of all the city walls ; " for he says ex- pressly that the second wall "had its beginning near the gate Gennath," the position of which he leaves undeter- mined ; yet the assumption that it was " doubtless near the 4 Bib. Res. i. 412; and Joseph. J. W. vi. viii. 4. 6 J. W. v. iv. 1, vi. viii. 4, and the third wall was not so strongly built It was on this part also that Cestius encamped his army within the ix. 1. I outer wall opposite to the royal palace. 7 Is it not uncandid of Dr Robin- J. W. n. xix. 5. The populous part son to speak of " the existence of popu- lous suburbs in this part," " which must already have existed before the time of our Lord's crucifixion ?" (Bib. Res. ii. 69); for this part is expressly excepted by the Jewish historian, who states that on account of the new city being thinly peopled in this quarter, of the new city was on the north, not on the west. J. W. v. iv. 2. Jose- phus says : Tavry yap TO, TC irpoarov tjK epvft.a. -xftafjLaktoTepov, /cat TO Seu- Tepov ou (ri/vjjTrrej/, a'/teXtjeraVraii/ KO&' a /aj Xiav j Kttivtj TroXis trvvoaKiaTO Teix^ 6 *"- ^' '"""' T< > Tpi-rov >)v eirjre- reia, K. r. \. J. W. v. vi. 2. 264 THE HOLY CITY. [PART n. tower of Hippicus," so far from being supported by any evidence from this author, is disproved by those incidental passages which have been now adduced ; and had it been near he would probably have intimated it, as it is quite true that this is " assumed as the starting point of all the walls except the second" To proceed now to Acra, or the lower city. The sim- plest plan will be to compare the language of Josephus with the topographical notices of Dr Robinson, and see how far they are consistent. In the language of Josephus, the ancient city " lay upon two hills, over against each other, separated by an inter- vening valley, at which the houses terminated 1 ." And his language throughout plainly implies that the city compre- hended the whole of the two hills, Acra as well as Zion that Acra was hi fact a distinct hill. But Dr Robinson's Acra 2 is "the continuation, or rather the termination of the broad ridge or swell of land" to which " a compara- tively modern tradition has given the name of Mount Gihon." 1 Joseph. J. W. v. vi. 1, quoted by Dr Robinson, Vol. i. pp. 409, 10. 8 His words are (p. 391) : "Acra North of Zion is the hill of Acra. It is the continuation or ra- ther the termination of the broad ridge or swell of land which lies north of the basin at the head of the Valley of Hin- nom, and extends down into the city, forming its N.W. part. Indeed the N. W. comer of the city-wall is directly on this ridge ; from which spot the wall descends immediately towards the N.E., and also, though less rapidly, to- wards the S. E. To the whole ridge, both without and within the city, a com- paratively modern tradition had given the name of Mount Gihon ; though there is no trace of any hill so named in Scripture or other ancient history." In a note here he says : " The name of Gihon, as applied to this ridge, seems to be first mentioned by Bro- cardus about A.D. 1283" (cap.ix. in p. 391). In p. 351, he had thus spoken of this same ridge : " The whole in- terval between this gate (the Damascus) and Gihon, (called by him more cor- rectly II immni, in the passage quoted above), is occupied by a broad hill or swell of land rising somewhat higher than the N. W. part of the city it- self." CH. I.] THE HOLY CITY. 265 The principal part of this high rocky ridge is without the city, on the right of the Jaffa road, which traverses its southern edge, so that Dr Robinson's Acra is not a distinct hill, but the termination or declivity of a swell of land. Again, Josephus asserts that the two Mils on which the city stood, " were everywhere enclosed from without by deep valleys 3 ;" but the wall enclosing the Professor's Acra " ran from near Hippicus northwards, across the higher and more level part of Acra*," leaving without towards the north-west, not a deep valley, but a broad ridge or swell of land, which is continued to a considerable distance 5 . Further, Josephus invariably speaks of Zion as higher than Acra. " Of these two hills that which contains the upper city is much higher. It was called the citadel by king David ; by us, the Upper Market-place. But the other hill, which was called Acra, sustained the lower city," and occupied " the lower hill 6 ." But Dr Robinson's Acra is considerably higher than Zion, as is evident even from his own words. The Jaffa gate, it will be remem- bered, is at that tower which is supposed to occupy the site of Hippicus, and its situation at the north-west angle of Mount Zion is as high as any on this hill 7 ; but " when one enters the Jaffa gate and takes the first street leading north" (i.e. to the Professor's Acra,) "immediately from the 3 J. W. v. iv. 1. " The only topo- graphical notice of Josephus," says Dr Robinson, " as to which I have doubts," the language of which " is not literally exact," p. 414. But it will be found that he must apply the same summary mode of proceeding to other passages of this same author. 4 Yet in another passage he finds it convenient to bring it lower down ; p. 392, note 1. 6 See Dr Robinson's Plan of Je- rusalem, Vol. ii., and Bib. Res. as above. 6 J. W. v. iv. 1, &c. 7 The only question could be at the Armenian convent ; but the street lead- ing to it from the castle is quite level, and the ascent, if anything, quite im- perceptible. 266 THE HOLY CITY. [PART n. adjacent open place, he has before him a considerable ascent, though afterwards the way is more level quite to the Latin convent 1 ." Indeed, this north-west angle of the modern city-wall is considerably higher than the highest point of Mount Zion ; so much so that the ground here will be found nearly on a level with the top of the Ar- menian convent on Mount Zion, which is by far the loftiest building in Jerusalem 2 , and the native rock is here visible above the surface of the ground, so that the theory of rub- brish &c., can have no place. Lastly. The broad valley which had once parted Acra from Moriah was filled up by the Asmoneans, so that these two hills became one; whereas the valley between Dr Robinson's Acra and Moriah has not been at all filled up, except by the accumulation of rubbish 3 , but remains most distinctly to this day, as he himself constantly testifies 4 . 1 p. 391. This is not quite correct ; from being more level at first, it be- comes steeper as you approach the Casa Nuova and Latin convent, and still more so beyond, towards the north- west angle of the modem wall, without which is the large terebinth-tree, p. 345. 8 I had frequent opportunities of re- marking this. The house then occu- pied by our excellent consul stood in this quarter, and his garden extended to this angle. a True, the valley of the Tyro- |i;ron, and that between Acra and Moriah, have been greatly filled up with the rubbish accumulated from the repeated desolations of nearly eighteen centuries. Yet they are still distinctly to be traced." p. 414. Filled with earth by the Asmoneans, and "greatly filled up with rubbish," &c., and still " distinctly to be traced ;" Acra still separated by a broad valley from Mo- riah ! 4 See distinct mention of this "broad valley" between his Acra and Moriah in Bib. Res. i. pp. 392, 3, and p. 433, note 1. " Moriah is separated from Acra by the valley which runs from the Damascus gate," 393 ; and again, " the ground descends eastward from the Latin convent to the same church, (i. e. Holy Sepulchre), and then again by a still steeper declivity from the church to the street along the valley between Acra and the area of the great Mosk" And elsewhere he tells us that " all the western entrances of the mosk are reached by an ascent, and some of them at least by steps," p. 394. This does not look like the valley being filled up, and the two hills united. The words of the histo- CH. I.] THE HOLY CITY. 267 From this comparison then, if it be not rather a con- trast, it will be sufficiently clear that the Acra of Dr Robinson does not at all answer to the description of the Jewish historian, whose authority is not to be questioned, for he is writing of localities with which he was perfectly familiar. Again, I never could find any traces of the valley which Dr Robinson calls the Tyropseon; that which separated between Zion and Acra. Indeed, he himself seems to have had some difficulty in doing so ; his first attempt was altogether unsuccessful 5 . He afterwards satisfied himself that he had discovered it in a "depression or shallow Wady (still easily to be traced) coming down from near the Jaffa Gate" in an easterly direction, until it joins an- other Wady, and " then continues obliquely down the slope, but with a deeper bed, in a southern direction, quite to the Pool of Siloam and the Valley of Jehoshaphat. This is the ancient Tyropaeon 6 ." rian are: " Over against this (Acra) there was a third hill, naturally lower than Acra, and parted formerly from the other by a broad valley. However, in those times when the Asmoneans reigned, they filled up that valley with earth, with the view of joining the city to the temple. They then took off part of the height of Acra, and reduced it to be of less elevation than it was before, that the temple might be superior to it." J. W. v. iv. 1. Dr Robinson has mis- translated this in order to avoid the obvious difficulty; omitting the word "formerly," and inserting the word " partly," p. 415 ; i. e. Josephus says " it had been formerly separated, but was filled up." Dr Robinson, " it was separated in Josephus' time, and had been only partly filled up." Again, professing to follow Josephus he says : " They threw earth into this valley, intending to connect," &c. ; and again omits the words "formerly separated," p. 410. Is this honest ? Dr Lightfoot, following Josephus, says that "Acra had been much levelled by the Asmo- nean family in the time of their reign ; and the valley betwixt well raised and filled up with earth," &c. Prospect of the Temple, cap. i. This surely is what any candid reader would gather from Josephus. Reland concludes so likewise. 5 Vol. i. p. 353. 6 p. 383. 268 THE HOLY CITY. [PART n. Now, however " easy to be traced" this valley may be, I must confess that I could never discover it, during four- teen months 1 residence in Jerusalem, although I must have crossed it almost every day. There is a street which runs down from the Jaffa Gate, almost in a direct line through the bazaars, to the enclosure of the mosk. Here, if anywhere, this valley must be looked for 1 . Its course is at first immediately under the steep brow of Mount Sion, which rises on the right hand, once precipitous, now slanted off by ruins ; but on the other side, i.e. on the left hand, there is not the slightest appearance of a rise, as a valley would require ; the whole ground north of Zion declining equally towards the east; so that every street running from south to north is completely level every street passing from west to east, a steep declivity 2 . Now when it is remembered that this valley was a marked feature in the topography of ancient Jerusalem ; in the first instance dividing, as it would seem, two cities one from another, and ever afterwards presenting a distinct line of separation between the two hills of the incorporated city, it seems scarcely credible that the accumulation of rubbish and such like accidental causes should so far have obliterated it, as to leave no distinct traces behind. 1 And there Dr Robinson finds it, p. 388. Writing of Zion he says : " Its northern part or brow is just south of the street which leads down directly east from the Jaffa gate, along the bed of the ancient Tyropaeon." There is positively not the slightest appearance of a valley here. 8 Dr Robinson attempts to alter the ground here, and to make a declivity from the Latin convent to the south- east, in order to form the bed of his Tyropteon. In the passage imme- diately following that quoted, he says : " In the street leading north below the Pool of Hezekiah, and also in that along the bazaars, this ascent is less perceptible." There is no ascent : the streets are completely level, and run along the eastern brow of what he calls Acra, on which, as he says, " the church of the Holy Sepulchre stands." p. 391. CH. I.] THE HOLY CITY. 269 But nothing has yet been said of the Pool of Hezekiah, which, if rightly placed by Professor Robinson, would bring that part of the modern city, and so the Holy Sepulchre, within the ancient walls; which could scarcely have passed between the Pool and the Sepulchre. The following is the Professor's notice of the Pool of Hezekiah : " The Reservoir, now usually so called, h'es some distance north-eastward of the Jaffa Gate, just west of the street that leads north to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre 3 ." Now, first, it will be necessary to correct a mis-statement in this passage, which is quite unaccountable. So far from this Pool being " usually called" by the name here given to it, it may be questioned whether there are fifty persons in Jerusalem who would know it by that name. The Professor himself tells us in a passage immediately following that just cited, that " the natives now call it Birket el Hum- mam, from the circumstance that its waters are used to supply a bath in that vicinity." I enquired diligently of the most learned Jews, of the most intelligent Greeks, of native Christians and Mahommedans, and never in one in- stance did I receive the name which Dr Robinson so con- fidently gives it. The Pool of the Bath, or the Pool of the Holy Sepulchre, are the only names by which they know it. On what authority then does Dr Robinson rest ? It is singular that with so strong a prejudice against "monkish traditions," especially if they happen to be "comparatively recent 4 ," he should be found to attach weight to a tradition which, above all others in Jerusalem, is "monkish" and 3 p. 487- 4 The silence of Dr Robinson to the date of this tradition, cannot help striking one as a very suspicious cir- cumstance. He does not usually deal so with generally received traditions. 270 THE HOLY CITY. [PART ir. " comparatively recent." Quaresmius, a monk, and superior of the Frank Convent at Jerusalem at the beginning of the seventeenth century, appears to be the first writer who dignified this pool with the name which Dr Robinson has adopted for it ; and he speaks with great hesitation. It was commonly known as the " Pool of the Holy Sepulchre ;" he thinks that this is the pool spoken of hi Isaiah xxii. 9, and believes that allusion is made to it in 2 Chron. xxxii. 30 J . With such an origin this tradition was handed down by the Latin monks, and received from them by English tra- vellers, until it found its way at last into a modern plan of the city, though in a somewhat corrupted form 2 . It was not so much as mentioned by the writers of the middle ages; and but for a passage in Josephus, I should conclude it to be of later date, for I could discover nothing in its structure to denote any great antiquity 3 . The Chronicles of the Crusades are very explicit in their account of the fountains and pools on which the inhabitants of Jerusalem were dependent for their supply of water in that thirsty land. They severally enumerate those most celebrated, but one undertakes to give an account of all. He mentions the position of four very clearly, three of which still exist, the fourth has disappeared ; but this of Dr Robin- son has no place in his list ; indeed, he virtually denies all 1 His words are : " Intra civitatem esse alteram piscinam celebrem, prater Probaticam, quae est a latere occiden- tali (Oriental! ?) castelli, parumque ad Aquilonem inclinans, ab eoque distal centum gressus, et a glorioso Christi Sepulchro ducentos circiter, et ab eo communiter piscina S. Sepulchri dici- tur De hoc piscina arbitror loqui Dominum (Eaa. xxii. 9) illis verbis, Et congregastis aquas piscina; infe- rioris Ad eamdam credo fieri al- lusionem illis verbis 2 Paral. xxxii. 30, Ipse est Hezechias," &c. Elucid. terra sanctae, Lib. vi. cap. viii. p. 4. 2 It is marked in Mr Catherwood's very excellent but truly monkish plan, as " the pool of Ezekiel." 3 The large stones which Dr Ro- binson heard of may have belonged to any other building. CH. THE HOLY CITY. 271 knowledge of its existence, for he says, " besides these four, there is no mention of any other pools in or about the city 4 ." Yet its situation agrees so well with the Amygdalon or almond-pool mentioned by Josephus 5 , which I have shewn reason to believe was without the second wall, that I am disposed to conclude that it is noticed by that writer. It probably owed its origin to Herod the Great, and may have been designed for the supply of his palace, from which it would not be far distant 6 ; and if this be so, the silence of the writer in question must be accounted for either by its being disused in those tunes, or not improbably filled with rubbish. Some of the writers above referred to do indeed speak of the Pool of Hezekiah ; and however clear it may be that they were mistaken, yet I think it would have been more candid in Dr Robinson to inform his readers that his pool had a rival which certainly could show a much earlier title to this dignity, especially as he does refer to the passages rather than leave them to conclude that his monkish tradition was as ancient and undisputed as they would argue it to be from the fact of its being so confidently received by one who objects to traditions of the 13th century as compara- tively recent, and is so very suspicious of those which date as far back at least as the commencement of the fourth ! There existed formerly near the church of St Ann, within the St Stephen's gate, on the eastern side of the city, a large pool celebrated by all the writers of the age of the 4 " In Jerusalem autem vel circa, piscinas alia non leguntur." Mar. Sanutus, Lib. in. Pt. 14, cap. x. He had mentioned Siloam, one above that ; one by the Temple called by him the Sheep -pool, and now Bethesda ; and one by the church of St Ann, of which see the text forward. 5 See above, p. 262. 6 Josephus mentions a gate in the north wall of Zion, "by which water was brought into the Hippicus" pro- bably from this pool. v. vii. 3. 272 THE HOLY CITY. [PART 11. Crusades 1 , and supposed at least by the latter to be the " Inner Pool " made by Hezekiah, and celebrated in scrip- ture history. There seem to be insuperable objections to this tradition, which will be stated in a subsequent chapter ; nor does it appear to be of sufficient antiquity to demand much respect ; but it has been mentioned here to shew what very slender authority there is for the claims of Dr Robinson's pool, when so late as the 14th century it was not so much as mentioned, and the name which he assigns it given to another. Having now endeavoured to dispose of all the arguments which have been adduced by Dr Robinson in support of his theory of Acra, or the Lower city, and the Tyropseon, and stated what appear to me insuperable objections to its re- ception, it will be incumbent on me to attempt a proof of that which I have to propose. If the course of the valley of the Tyropaeon can be ascer- tained, the position of Acra will be easily determined. Now there is one and only one remarkable and well-de- fined valley passing entirely through the city, to which there is frequent allusion in the Professor's topographical notices 2 , as commencing near the Damascus gate, and running in a southern direction to the Pool of Siloam. He indeed places "the ancient hills of Zion and Acra on the west of this broad valley, and on the east the lower ones of Bezetha and 1 Gesta Dei, p. 573 ; Will. Tyr. viii. 4, fin.; Jac. dc Vit. c. 63. Ma- mi us Sanutus (1321), Lib. in. Pt. 14, cap. x.; Brocardus (1283), c. 10. These passages are referred to by Dr Robinson, note 1, on p. 490, but not a word about Hezekiah. He merely says, '* it was called piscina interior, and is now apparently destroyed." 8 See p. 345 : from the Jaffa gate he " descended to the Damascus gate." Again, p. 353, looking for the Tyro- l>;i mi, he finds no valley or depression " before reaching the declivity stretch- ing down to the Damascus gate." But see note 4 on p. 266 above, and B. R. p. 383. CH. I.] THE HOLY CITY. 273 Moriah ; " but this position will be found untenable, if it has not been proved so already. The fact is, what he calls Bezetha is the Acra of Josephus, and this " broad valley running down from the Dasmascus Gate to the Pool of Si- loam 3 " is the Tyropseon. I proceed to the proof of these most important points in the topography of ancient Jerusalem. It must never be forgotten that Jerusalem was originally two distinct cities united together by David. The interme- diate space, or the valley of the Tyropason, inclosed with walls to effect this union, is called in Scripture Millo, and elsewhere both in Scripture and in Josephus "the suburb 4 ," as belonging strictly to neither part of the city, but usually comprehended by the Jewish historian with Acra under the common name of the Lower City. In his description of the temple we have the following 3 p. 393. It is singular how inad- vertently he adopts almost the very words of Josephus in describing the Tyropaeon. " Now the valley of the cheesemongers, as it was called, and was that which distinguished the hill of the upper city from that of the lower, ca6ij/cei juex/" 2i\a>aju. : extended as far as Siloam," v. iv. 1. Had he been speaking of Dr Robinson's imaginary right-angular valley, he could hardly have used this language : it would then either terminate at this " broad valley" running from north to south, which he makes it join (see above, p. 267), or bend round to Siloam. 4 For Millo, see above, p. 22, note 2. It is identified with the Tyro- paeon by Brocardus, who is followed by Adrichomius and others. Lightfoot (" vir de geographia sacra optime meri- tus," as Reland calls him,) in a com- ment ort a passage of Josephus, which 18 will be presently quoted, says, " These suburbs that he meaneth were indeed that part of the city which is in Scrip- ture called Millo, which was the valley at the west end of Mount Moriah in which Jerusalem [i. e. Acra] and Zion met and saluted each other; replenish- ed with buildings by David and Solo- mon in their times, (2 Sam. v. 9, and 1 Kings xi. 27), and taken in as part and suburbs of Zion, and so named always in after times." And again : " Millo, which was an outer place and the sub- urbs of Zion, distinguished and parted from Zion by a wall, yet a member of it, and belonging to it." Josephus rather makes it belong to Acra ; though it is true that in the passage in ques- tion " he maketh Acra as another city from the suburbs." In Scripture, Millo appears to be called once " the city of David." See 2 Chron. xxxii. 5, in the Hebrew. 274 THE HOLY CITY. [PART H. full and very clear account of the gates of the outer court on the western side : " In the western quarter of this outmost bound there were four gates; the first leading to the king's palace, the valley being filled up for the passage; two others led into the suburbs ; and the other into the other city, having many steps down into the valley, and many up again to the pitch or coming up 1 ." Now if we can discover the situation of the first men- tioned of these four gates it will throw considerable light upon the question under discussion ; for that the suburbs lay between the first and fourth gate, is sufficiently evident from Holy Scripture. Nor can any reason be assigned for their being taken by Josephus in any other than the order in which they stood. In the account of the placing of the porters, under the first temple, we read that " To Shuppim and Hozah the lot came forth westward, with the gate Shallecheth, by the causeway of the going up ; " and again, " at Parbar west- ward four at the causeway, and two at Parbar 2 ." Now this causeway, without all doubt, could be none other than that mentioned among the great works of Solomon, as " the ascent by which he went up unto the house of the Lord 3 ." 1 Ant.xv.xi.fi. 'Evkrolv earire- pioiv /n'fiirri TOV ire/)i/3oAou iruXaiTea- trapes tyeirratrav. % /nil/ els TO fia- ffiXeta Tsivovtra, TIJS ev fiearto (ftdpayyot eh SioSov dveiXtj/j.fievrjv, ui Si dvo elv Ti> irpoatrreiov, ij \oiirtj <5i eis TJJ/ a\- \1)ll -JToXlV. K.T.\. ' 1 Chron. xxvi. 1, 18. 3 1 Kings x. 5, and 2 Chron. ix. 4. Lightfoot says : '' The word ' Shallech- eth,' by which name this gate was first called in the time of Solomon, doth signify ' a casting up.' Now this gate is said, in 1 Chron. xxvi. 16, to have been by ' the causeway going up,' which going up is that renowned ascent that Solomon made for his own passage up to the temple. And the causeway is that that Joseph us meaneth, when he saith, 'a gate led to the king's house from the temple, the valley betwixt being filled up for the passage,' which CH. I.] THE HOLY CITY. 275 I have already declared my conviction that this is dis- tinctly to be seen at this day 4 , and is traversed by the street which leads down from the bazaars to the southernmost gate of the western wall of the mosk, immediately without which is the Cadi's office, or Mekheme ; and it is a singular fact, that the very street which Dr Robinson represents as follow- ing the bed of the valley of the Tyropaeon 5 is carried along the ridge of an artificial mound! for the mound is clearly artificial, and not accidental, as he imagines 6 . About half-way between the bazaar and the Haram there is a path southward, by a very steep descent to the bed of the valley, down which it leads between prickly pears, to a small gate in the city- wall seldom opened 7 , and so to the Pool of Siloam; while nearer to the mosk there is an equally steep descent to the north, into a street which follows the same valley up to the Damascus gate. By this causeway the aqueduct from the pools of So- was a very great work, for the valley was large and deep." Vol. i. p. 1055, fol. ed. 4 See above, p. 22, Part i. cap. i. 5 See above, p. 268, note 1. 8 Bib. Res. Vol. i. p. 393. In passing along this valley" (viz. that from the Damascus gate) "through the present street toward the south, appa- rently just before coming to the Tyro- paeon, one crosses over a small rise of ground. This is probably rubbish, the accumulation of ages, though the houses in the vicinity prevented us from ascertaining whether it extends quite across the valley. It is also pos- sible that this mound may serve to carry the aqueduct from Solomon's pools into the area of the mosk ; which is every where higher than the bottom of this valley." This last conjecture is correct, as appears above ; but the existence of the Tyropaon south of this causeway running down from the west, is purely imaginary. The west extremity of the causeway joins the north-east angle of Sion, which is a rock. Besides, how could the aque- duct cross such a valley here, so as to reach the causeway ? No valley nor traces of one are to be seen. 7 Towards the latter end of the long summer of 1842 it was opened, and a guard stationed there ; but merely for the purpose of facilitating the intro- duction of water to the city from the Bir Eyout. When the rains came it was again built up. It is marked in many plans as the Dung-gate. 182 276 THE HOLY CITY. [PART n. lomon, after skirting the eastern brow of Zion, crosses the bed of the Tyropaeon to the mosk, while deeper still is a large sewer which traverses the whole of Zion, and dis- charges itself into an immense chamber beneath the bed of the valley, near the covered arcade which conducts to the baths 1 . The palace of Solomon may have occupied the same site on the north-east angle of mount Zion, where stood the palace erected by the Asmoneans, and afterwards oc- cupied by Agrippa 2 ; and the causeway conducted from this palace to that gate of the temple, known by the name of " Shallecheth," " the gate of the casting up, or embank- ment 3 ." And now having fixed this gate, as Dr Robinson himself also does 4 , opposite to Zion, we must look for the other 1 I am indebted for these interest- ing discoveries to the worthy consul- general of Prussia, Her Von Wilden. bruck, who, during his visit to Jerusa- lem in 1842, was attended by a very intelligent cawass of the Pasha, who communicated to him the fact about the aqueduct, and shewed him its course down the causeway: I after- wards engaged the services of the same man to conduct me about the city, and give me further information on these points. A full account of the aque- duct from the pools will be given be- low, cap. iii. The sewer was disco- vered near the castle of David by Mr Johns, architect of the Jews' Society, in digging for the foundations of their church. It was 40 feet below the sur- face of the ground, (rubbish interven- ing,) partly cut through the rock and partly built, broken in in several places. From the bazaars it is still in use. 2 Joseph. Ant. xx. viii. 11. 8 "So, saith Kimchi (Michol in it is rendered by the Chaldee Paraphrast in the sense of j"T3 /{tfiT-" Lightfoot, Vol. i. p. 1055. He further says, that in the time of Herod's temple it was called the Gate of Coponius, probably from Coponius, general of the horse and ruler of Judaea under Cyre- nius governor of Syria, who arrived about the time of the finishing of Herod's temple. 4 Bib. Res. Vol. i. p. 412. "We are informed, that on the western side of the temple area were four gates ; one leading over the valley to the royal palace (on Zion)," &c. He suggests that this passage was by the bridge, the remains of which he fancied that he discovered : but the language of Jose- phus implies an embankment, such as CH. I.] THE HOLY CITY. 277 three north of this, two leading " to the suburb," and one "into the other city." The only notice which Dr Robinson takes of this remarkable passage, which is fatal to his theory, is in the words, " two conducting to the suburb (or new city), on the north, and the remaining one leading to the other city. By this ' other city ' can be meant only the Lower City, or Acra 5 ." Now, not to insist upon the facts that the historian places the two gates into the suburbs next in order to that by the causeway, and that he never in a single passage calls Bezetha the suburb, but always "the new city 6 ," and that it had no existence when the temple was built ; it is obvious to remark, that as Bezetha lay upon the north side of the temple, it could by no possibility be approached from its western gates, which are here in mention : and it was so far from being united to the tem- ple, or having gates leading into it from the temple, that it was separated from it by the fortress of Antonia, and a deep trench 7 . Besides which, the tower of Antonia, which lay at that of Solomon clearly was. See above, p. 274, and much more fully in the next chapter. 5 Bib. Res. Vol. i. p. 412. With a want of consistency of which one is sorry to have so often to complain in this author, he afterwards makes these three gates lead into the lower city, and thus denies what he asserts in the text above. Bib. Res. ii. p. 69 : " Three gates led from it (the lower city) to the temple." He is evidently sorely per- plexed at this troublesome passage of Josephus, but will not acknowledge it. No doubt " the suburb" was part of the lower city ; and this last passage is so far correct, but he ought to be consistent. 8 " This new-built part of the city was called Bezetha in our language, which if interpreted in the Grecian lan- guage may be called Casnopolis, (the new city)." J. W. Lib. v. 4. 2. It was properly a suburb before Agrippa enclosed it, although I am not aware that it is ever so called by the historian. 7 Dr Robinson himself tells us, p. 432, that the Antonia, which (folio wing Josephus) he places "on the north side of the area of the temple ;" i. e. between Bezetha and the temple, was "sepa- rated from the hill Bezetha on the north by a deep artificial trench, lest it should be approachable from that hill." See again, 433, &c. Yet here he makes it to be approached by two gates from the western side of the temple ! 278 THE HOLY CITY. [PART n. the north-west angle of the temple-court 1 , and probably gave its name to Acra, was without doubt comprehended in the Lower City. Now if " by this other city," in this passage of Josephus, can be meant only the Lower City or Acra, as Dr Robinson himself grants, is it not plain that the north- ernmost of these western gates must have led into that city, as the order of the historian would lead us to conclude ? We must then look for "the suburb" west of the temple, and for the two gates leading to the suburb, in the inter- mediate space between the fortress Antonia and the causeway. And in this conclusion we are again confirmed by the language of Holy Scripture, with reference to the por- ters. The gate next Shallecheth is the Parbar gate, i. e. " the gate of an outer place," or " the gate of the suburb 8 ; " and there is an incidental allusion to this same gate in the 1 Dr Robinson would have me say north, which makes the case stronger. He says (i. p. 433) that " the rock on which the fortress stood could not have been further west than the western line of the temple-area ; for here ran, and runs, the valley which separated Beze- tha and Moriah from Acra." Here again he joins Bezetha to Moriah, and separates Acra from it, contrary to Josephus. It would appear from some passages that the whole of the north wall of the temple enclosure was not covered by Antonia. See below, next chapter. 8 "The word Parbar admitteth of a double construction : for it either sig- nifies "Q s )73> an outward place, as many of the Jews do construe it ; or it concurs with the signification of the word 'parvar,' (which differs but one letter from it, and that very near and of an easy change) which betokeneth 'suburbs,' both in the Hebrew text, 2 Kings xxii. 11, and in the Chaldee tongue, as David Kimchi averreth there." Lightfoot, Vol. i. p. 1056, where he shews it to have been next to Shallecheth. This learned author places Zion north of Acra, which is a source of endless confusion with him. This is the more to be regretted, as with accurate data his learning and laborious research might have led to important results. He was misled, like the Rabbies, by a misunderstand- ing of Psalm xlviii. 2, which the Chronicles of the Crusades, Sandys, Quaresmius, &c. ought to have cor- rected : but he does not seem to have consulted modern books of travels, &c. CH. I.] THE HOLY CITY. 279 book of Kings, where the suburbs are again mentioned. It is said of Josiah that "he took away the horses that the kings of Judah had given to the sun, at the entering in of the house of the Lord, by the chamber of Nathan-melech the chamberlain, which was in the suburbs 3 " The other gate into the suburb, and that into the Lower City, would appear to have a common name in Scripture, derived from the "house of Asuppim," or treasure-houses of the temple, which extended between them, and united them ; and there- fore although that next to Parbar " did lead also into the suburbs as well as this, as is apparent from Josephus, yet is it not called by the same name Parbar : the reason of this may be given, because it bare a name peculiar and proper, suitable to that singular use to which it was designed, or to that place where it was set, rather than suitable to that place whither it gave passage 4 ." The observation, that the street which led to the " other city " descended by a flight of stab's from the gate of the temple, and then ascended to the city, may suggest the objection that the valley that separated Acra from the temple had been filled up 5 . I answer that it was the hill of Acra which had been united to the mount of the temple, and not that part of the Lower City, opposite to the northernmost gate on the western side of the area, which was bounded, as it still is, by a deep valley, except at the north-west angle, in which quarter I presume that the junction was effected. The filling up of the valley 3 2 Kings xxiii. 11. See Lightfoot, Vol. i. p. 1056. See Lightfoot, Vol. i. pp. 1056-7. 5 See above, p. 274, and notes. The words of Josephus are, /3o6/uapayya iei- \ffj.[Levi), Kal dir& TauTjjs dvta iraXiv eirl Ttji/ jrp6dpa-y men- tioned, in the earlier part of the same passage, which see at p. 274, note 1 ; i. e. the Tyropaeon ? 280 THE HOLY CITY. [PART 11. would seem to have been part of the same work as the demolition of the fortress and the lowering of the height of Acra, and it was a work of immense labour, and oc- cupied a long space of time 1 : I think that the traces of it remain to this day plainly visible, in a ridge which slopes down from the traditionary site of the house of Herod to the outer inclosure of the mosk, and which is crossed by the "Via Dolorosa," as it approaches the se- raglio, or the house of Pilate. I presume then that the rock thrown down from Acra is the substratum of this sloping ridge, which is certainly a remarkable feature, and that it is here that "the broad valley which formerly separated between Acra and Moriah was filled up by the Asmoneans, with a view to join the temple to the city ; " and this would be of itself a sufficient proof that the hill so connected with Moriah cannot be Bezetha, as Dr Ro- binson takes it to be ; for it has been already remarked, that Bezetha was so far from being united to Moriah by an artificial mound, that it was separated from it by a deep-dug trench 2 ! It will have been seen already that Dr Robinson places Acra due west of Moriah : and in another passage he dis- tinctly says, "Moriah was apparently at first an elevated mound of rock, rising by itself upon this ridge, over against the eastern point of Acra 3 ." I trust that sufficient proof has now been given that this position is untenable, not only from the fact that his Acra will not answer to the con- ditions required of that described in Josephus, but by the fact, that west of Moriah lay " the suburbs," sometimes 1 Vid. Joaephud, Ant. Lib. xm. cap. vi. si-ct. 7- 5 See above, p. 278, and more fully in the next chapter. 3 Bib. Res. Vol. i. p. 393. CH. THE HOLY CITY. 281 indeed comprehended with Acra under one common appel- lation, but sometimes also distinguished from it by a peculiar name. This must be remembered, or otherwise it will be impos- sible to reconcile those passages which speak of parts of " the Lower City," or "Acra," (for the names are often used inter- changeably) west of the temple, with those which have been now considered 4 . The real question is, whether the hill were to the west or to the north-west of Moriah. If the argument from the gates and the mound be not sufficient to prove the latter, it may perhaps be that the fol- lowing additional considerations will determine the point. The second wall which " encircled the northern part of the city reached as far as Antonia." But Antonia was at the north of Moriah, and it was not until he had taken the second wall that Titus could bring his engines against the tower itself. And in his account of Bezetha, or the new city, Josephus expressly speaks of the high part of the old city lying north of the temple ; the overflowing of which occa- sioned the new city to be formed 5 ; and it is remarkable that Dr Robinson himself is obliged to bring great part of this hill into the old city, that the wall encompassing it may reach Antonia 6 . So that in fact the ancient city, according 4 Passages might be adduced to prove that Acra lay south of the temple, for sometimes the Tyropason down to Siloam is comprehended under this name. 5 Bell Jud. v. iv. 2. TOUTO [TO TP'LTOV TCIXOS] Tfj Trpotricriardeiarri iro- Xei jre/jie'Otj/cej' 'Ay p fair as, tjirep fiv wdaa yvfitn}' ir\r\Qei yap virep'xeo/jie- vt), KOTO fiiKpov efceZp-jre -rtov Trepifio- \tai> Koci TOV iepov TO irpotrdpKTia ir/ooe TW \6ta }S fj.opdv. 'ApTlTOKO? yap, flOVOeiClj?, d[l(f>iKVpTOS, jcai Trai/o-Afivos. See more to the pur- pose, Palestina, p. 852. 9 Bib. Res. i. 410. 314 THE HOLY CITY. [PART II. lication 1 . Now, without waiting to insist on the great difficulty there would be to account, on this supposition, for the opposition implied in the description of Zion, which Josephus says was "more direct" than Acra, it will surely be more fair to allow the author to explain himself, which he seems to do very clearly in two passages which have been above referred to, in one of which he speaks of the wall of Acra running in a circular course, in another of a northern and southern part of the same ; in the former giving the curve of the moon, in the latter the base of its illuminated segment ; then its opposition to the other hill will be plain enough, and entirely consistent with fact, the latter being nearly a square, the former quite of a gibbous form ! 1 Biblioth. Sacra, Vol. i. p. 189, note 1, (end.) of Mount Moriah fn CHAPTER II. THE JEWISH TEMPLE AND THE FORTRESS ANTONIA. To pass from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to the opposite hill of Moriah. My plan here will be to describe the present features of the Temple-mount, as far as possible from my own observations as confirmed by others, and then, by comparing the notices of ancient writers with existing phae- nomena, to endeavour to contribute something towards the elucidation of this most difficult subject : happy if I can suc- ceed in clearing away some rubbish, in order to facilitate the operations of future labourers on the same ground. 316 THE HOLY CITY. [PART n. I proceed to a survey of the enclosure of the great Mosk, the general appearance of which has been already de- scribed, and I shall prefer to use the language of others rather than my own, for reasons which will be presently obvious 1 . El Haram es Sherif, "the noble sanctuary," occupies an area contained within four unequal sides nearly opposite to the four cardinal points. " The length of the east wall is 1520 feet, of the south wall 940 feet, of the west wall 1617 feet, and of the north 1020 feet ; and the walls stand at right-angles only at one point, the south-west corner." " The Mosk of Omar occupies the middle space, nearly, between the southern and northern walls ; " but is " exactly one-third, or 320 feet, nearer the western than the eastern wall." It stands on an " extensive platform measuring 450 feet from east to west, and 550 feet from north to south, paved in part with marble," rising " in gene- ral about 15 or 16 feet above the area," and approached " by three flights of stairs on the western side," " on the north side two, on the south side two, on the east side one." The mosk itself "is octagonal in form, each side mea- suring 67 feet ; its dome is covered with lead, and sur- mounted by a tall gilt crescent." " Under this dome is a ' I am here much indebted to a paper in Mr Bartlett's " Walks about Jerusalem," contributed by Mr Cather- wood with his usual kindness -. and I take this opportunity of expressing my thanks to that gentleman for his courtesy to me, and my regret that, while availing myself 90 largely of his observations, I am obliged to differ so widely from hid deductions and con- clusions. This letter will be found from p. 161 to 178 of the book in ques- tion, with plans and illustrations, all extremely interesting; and the re- ferences are to this. Mr Catherwood visited the Mosk daily for six weeks in 1838, and was assisted in his survey by two other architects then at Jeru- salem, Messrs. Bonomi and Arundel. Walks, 161, 164. CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 317 remarkable limestone rock, which occupies the greater part of the area beneath [the dome], and appears to be the natural surface of the rock of Mount Moriah." "It is irregular in its form, and measures about 60 feet in one direction, and 50 in the other. It projects about 5 feet above the marble pavement of the mosk, which is itself 12 feet above the general level of the enclosure." " At the south-east cor- ner of this rock is an excavated chamber, irregular in form j its superficial area being about 600 feet, the average height 7. In the centre of the rocky pavement is a circular slab of marble, which being struck, returns a hollow sound, clearly showing that there is a well or excavation beneath." " Proceeding southward from the platform of the Mosk of Omar, at the distance of 350 feet" is the " porch of Mosk el-Aksa, which occupies the remaining space of 280 feet, extending to the southern wall of the great enclosure the entire breadth being 180 feet . . . Attached to the south-west angle of this building is the Mosk of Abu- Bekr . . . upwards of 200 feet in length and 55 in breadth" . . . and at right angles with this again, the Mosk of the Mogrebins, 200 feet in length, and at the opposite end of this edifice, on the edge of the wall, is the small Mosk of Omar, 85 feet in length. Beneath this Mosk of el-Aksa is a vaulted passage or corridor, which was the only part of the precincts of the mosk which I was able to explore during my stay at Jerusalem 3 . This avenue is composed of two aisles, with a 2 I was introduced to it through a hole in the southern wall of the ex- terior enclosure, (which was stopped up soon after my second visit) by Mr Woolcott, an American missionary from Beirout, whose description I follow, as contained in a communi- cation made to Dr R., published in his Bibliotheca Sacra, Part i. p. 17, &c. It was seen by Maundrell, Jour- 318 THE HOLY CITY. [PART n. row of columns in the middle, approached from the court of the haram at the north by a door in the eastern aisle. The entrance from the haram is " immediately to the left of the main entrance" to El-Aksa, and down "a flight of stone steps." It is arched with stones, and each aisle, ex- clusive of the columns, about 19 feet in width ; the whole width of the area being 42 feet, and its length 280 feet 1 . Towards the southern end there is a descent of several feet by steps in the western aisle ; when the visitor finds himself before a double gateway of noble dimensions, supported by two Corinthian columns of marble, with highly decorated capitals. Some of the stones in the side walls are as much as 13 feet in length and bevelled. Within the area of the haram the subterranean vaults at the south-east next demand attention 2 . The descent to these is from a small mosk in the angle of the wall, and they consist of fifteen rows of square pillars, from which spring arches supporting the platform. These vaults at present extend about 320 feet towards the west, while to the northward their width varies from 100 to 200 feet: and they are closed up, both to the north and west, by walls of more modern date than the architecture of the pillars and arches. The roots of the olive-trees on the platform above " have struck through the arches and in some instances taken root again below. The ground . . . rises rapidly from the south-east towards the north and west, so that the height of the southern arches is 35 feet, ney, p. 100 ; is referred to in the Bib. Res. I. 446, 447 ; and described briefly by Mr Catherwood, Walks, pp. 169, 170. 1 The width is given by Mr Wool- cott, the length supplied by Mr Cather- wood, Walks, 1. c. It is the same length as the mosk above it. 2 Here I follow Mr Catherwood again, Bib. Res. i. 448 ; and Walks, 170. CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 319 while the northern ones are but 10 feet high. The whole substruction appears to be of Roman origin." One further observation will suffice for the survey of the interior. It relates to the north-west angle of the en- closure, and is of the utmost importance 3 . This inner angle is formed "by the rock being cut perpendicularly to an extent of 20 feet in some parts," while within the area also, towards the mosk, " a considerable portion of the rock has been cut away 4 ." To proceed now to a circuit of the exterior walls, com- mencing on the east side, above the Valley of Jehoshaphat 5 . Here are observed at the north-east and also at the south- east corner of the area several courses of large stones, evidently of ancient masonry, "one at the north-east mea- suring 24 feet in length, by 3 in height, and 6 in breadth," and some at the south-east varying " from 17 to 19 feet in length by 3 or four feet in height, while one block at the corner is 7^ feet thick 6 ." On this side there is nothing else to remark but the Golden Gate, "the external front and arches of which are evidently of Roman origin ;" while in the interior " a central row of noble Corinthian columns and a groined roof once formed a stately portico of Roman workmanship. It is situated nearly 300 feet north of the middle of the present enclosure 7 ." It has been presumed to be of the same age and style as the gate already noticed under the Mosk el-Aksa 8 . 3 Catherwood, Walks, 174, 175. 4 Bartlett, ib. 156. 5 For the exterior I follow Dr Robinson, and trust implicitly to his " measuring-tape," which I believe is pretty correct (much more so than his deductions from it) ; but 1 never had the curiosity to test its accuracy. 6 Bib. Res. i. 422, 423. * Bib. Res. i. 437, 438, embodying a statement from Mr Bouomi the ar- chitect. 8 Mr Catherwood, writing of the gateway under El-Aksa, says : " This 320 THE HOLY CITY. [PART II. On the south side of the outer enclosure, at a distance of 325 feet from its south-west, and 630 from its south-east corner 1 , the modern city-wall starts off from the wall of the haram at a right angle, at the precise point where the ancient double gateway under the Mosk el-Aksa is found, which is actually divided by this wall, so that one-half is included, the other excluded, from the modern city. Part of the ornamented capital may be seen appearing from the mass of modern masonry, by which the entrance has been blocked up ; and the curious traveller may have a view of the corridor by climbing up to the iron grating in the same wall, which the accumulation of rubbish will enable him to reach without difficulty 2 . Here a rude pile of Saracenic buildings abuts upon the wall of the mosk, from one of the lower apartments of which, approached from within the city, my stealthy entrance was effected. " This mass of buildings are merely offices connected with the mosk 3 ." In this same southern wall of the haram, a little to the east of this gateway, "are three Roman arches, walled up, about 25 feet high and 14 broad, entering apparently into the three western intervals ... of the vaults. Further east, near the end of the wall, is a Saracenic arch closed gateway is apparently of the same age and style as the Golden Gateway," p. 170. But in p. 173 he is more con- fident, and says " it is evidently of the same architecture, and connected with the same general design." I prefer 1 Biblical Res. i. 395, compared with 419, where he gives the breadth of the south wall as 955, being 15 feet more than Mr Catherwood, (see above, p. 316.) But, to avoid con- fusion, I follow the Bib. Res. and will the language of the former passage. explain more fully below my reasons He examined the Golden Gateway j for doing so. within, and found its length to be ! Woolcott, Bib. Sac. i. 18, 19. about 70 feet by a breadth of 25 j :> Catherwood, Walks, p. 169. feet. CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 321 up, and about the same size 4 ." There is nothing more to be remarked on the south side. We come now to some interesting remains at the south- west corner of the area of the mosk to which much importance has of late been attached viz. " several large stones jutting out of the western wall, which at the first sight seem to be the effect of a bursting of the wall from some mighty shock or earthquake;" but, on further in- spection, " the courses of these immense stones, which seem at first to have sprung out of their places in the wall, hi consequence of some enormous violence," are found to " oc- cupy, nevertheless, their original position." They have in fact "the appearance of having once belonged to a large arch : their external surface is hewn to a regular curve ; and being fitted one upon another, they form the com- mencement or foot of an immense arch, which once sprung out from this western wall, in a direction towards Mount Zion, across the valley of the Tyropaeon." The traveller to whom we owe this very accurate description of the an- tiquity, is convinced that "this arch could only have belonged to THE BRIDGE which, according to Josephus, led from [the south] part of the temple to the xystus on Zion;" of which much more will be said presently 5 . " The traces of this arch are too distinct and definite to be mistaken. Its southern side is 39 English feet distant from the south-west corner of the area, and the arch itself measures 51 feet along the wall. Three courses of its stones still remain ; of which one is 5 feet 4 inches thick, and the others not much less. One of the stones is 20^ feet long, another 24 1 feet, and the rest in like proportion." And besides these stones connected with 4 Woolcott, ut sup. p. 23. 5 See below, p. 336. 21 322 THE HOLY CITY. II. the arch, there are at this south-west corner other " huge blocks;" and "the corner-stone now next above the surface of the ground measures 30 feet 10 inches in length, by 61 feet broad; and several others vary from 20 ^ to 24-^ feet long by 5 feet in thickness 1 ." At present I am only engaged in a survey, and pass on to the next object of interest towards the north, the Wailing- place of the Jews 2 , where we find a fragment of which " the stones are of the same dimensions, and the wall of the same character, as in the parts already described 3 ." Further still towards the north, we reach the southern- most entrance to the haram from the west, approached by the causeway across the Tyropseon from the north-east angle of Zion, which has been so frequently mentioned 4 . From this point towards the north, " the western wall is mostly hidden by the houses of the city," but "there are on this side four entrances," (including that which has now been noticed) "to which streets lead down to the city 5 ." And " the principal entrance ... is through the deserted bazaar 6 ," of which mention was made above: the one most to the north is in the neighbourhood of the seraglio, which stands on the north side of the north-west angle of the haram, and which next claims attention. This building, "probably occupying in part the site of the ancient fortress Antonia 7 , rests upon a precipice of rock, which formerly swept down abruptly, and has obviously ' Bib. Res. 424, &c. Compare 351. * Bib. Res. Vol. i. pp. 422, 3 ; and compare 350, 351. 8 Bib. Res. Vol. i. p. 423. Compare p. 350 ; and see a very correct drawing of this and the ruined arch, in Mr Bartlett's book, pp. 154 and 150. 4 See above, Part i. ch. i. and Part ii. ch. i. p. 275. 8 Bib. Res. i. 420, 21. 6 Catherwood, p. 166. 7 Bib. Res. i. 420. CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 323 been cut away to form the level below, which also bears marks of having been scarped 8 ." This rocky precipice rises to a height of upwards of 20 feet, as was seen in the in- terior survey 9 . Immediately east of this large building is an entrance to the area of the mosk from the north, and a second at no great distance. Beyond this, " on its northern side, the area is skirted for nearly half its breadth by the deep pool or trench usually caUed Bethesda, and vaults connected with it 10 ." "The pool measures 360 English feet in length, 103 in breadth, and 75 in depth to the bottom; besides the rubbish which has been accumulating in it for ages. It was once evidently used as a reservoir." On the western side of the south-west angle " two lofty arched vaults extend in westward, side by side, under the houses which now cover that part. The southernmost of these arches is 12 feet in breadth, and the other 19 feet." Notwithstanding the accumulation of rubbish within and before them, " yet 100 feet may be measured within the northern one, and it seemed to extend much further. This gives the whole work a length of at least 460 feet, equal to nearly one half the whole breadth of the enclosure of the mosk; and how much more we do not know 11 ." This, Dr Robinson conjectures, is the ancient fosse of the fortress of Antonia. Its eastern end is close to the city wall, leaving only a narrow way to the haram from the St Stephen's gate. This brings us again to the north-eastern corner of the enclosure, and to the massive stones of ancient masonry in the corner, with which I began the survey of 8 Bartlett, p. 156, represented in a drawing, p. 108. 9 See above, p. 319. 10 Bib. Res. i. 420. 11 Ib. i. 434. See his arguments, Bib. Res. i. 432436. 212 324 THE HOLY CITY. [PART II. the exterior. I am now to endeavour to reconcile these phse- nomena with the ancient records of Josephus and others. And here we are met at the outset by a most strik- ing contrast between the ancient and the modern area ; the length of the latter exceeding its breadth, as we have seen, "by 573 feet, or more than one half 1 ,'' whereas, accord- ing to the united witness of Josephus and. the Talmud, the former was a complete square 2 . It is of course easy' to account for this by supposing that these ancient authorities were mistaken; and so we may dispose of any historical testimony whatever. But let us see whether there is any reason to believe that the Jews knew anything at all of the matter, as does seem probable at first sight. It hap- pens that they not only give the form, but the dimensions also. Josephus tells us it was a stadium square, and the Talmud 500 cubits 3 . Now making full allowance for the acknowledged " uncertainty which exists as to the length of the Jewish cubit," let us grant that it "may be taken at 1 feet (as is often done);" and then, with further allowance for our own ignorance and round numbers, let us suppose that the testimony of Josephus is not irreconcile- able with that of the Talmud. " The rabbinical specifica- tion of 500 . cubits or 875 feet, if reckoned only from portico to portico, would not vary very materially from the results of [modern] measurements 4 " in the breadth of the area, which gives 955 feet. But this breadth is de- termined on both sides by boundaries which are not liable 1 Bib. Res. 1.431. 8 Josephus, Ant. xv. xiv. Light- foot, Prospect of the Temple, cap. ii. 8 Lightfoot ut sup. This learned author most justly remarks, that " this every side the square, is so agreeable to the number of Ezekiel, that that helpeth to confirm and justify this pro- portion and account." See Ezek. xlii. 20 ; xlv. 2. number of five hundred cubits upon j 4 Bib. Res. 430, 1. the site ct'the ANCIENT TEMPLE and the TUR RIS /INTO HI A A.B.C.D El EammorAmi of the Great Mosk A . E. F. D SaBtfar* fart inl /;> the Church anil Hospitals ofJiifiiniarv E.B.C.F . An-tt ofthi-Jrwixh Temple ahinit loocFf.rgu,tre. i.e.4oooinciraat E.C K.LM.N.C.F,Thfle?i>/>/i- mvii iiidiiding Aiitoniji nbinit fiiioo FtinnmipiLSS l.C.hana-85O,GK-40O, KL-7&0.Lit-7i(>, MN-60O , NC-66O , CF-1OOO, FE-1OOO. ii.ii.ii.il, Fi'iir H-,'.ir/.7Ti firfniiinv f,i tin- Hunan t>. ('mils Office or Mckhane c.c.c, Tlirec corner towers c-f Antonio, so cubits high d. .'>. E. corner tower ot'Antftniii 7i> titbits high, ivmmaiulijig the War of the. whale Temple CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 325 to material change, viz. the Valley of Jehoshaphat on the east, and another marked valley on the west ; for so says Josephus, writing of the southern portico, " it reached in length from the east valley to that on the west ; for it was impossible that it should extend any further 5 ." Now deduct- ing 875 feet the supposed value of 500 Hebrew cubits for the breadth of the area within the porticos, from 955 feet, the ascertained width from valley to valley unchange- ably marked by nature, exactly 80 feet will be left for the porticos on either side, and these porticos according to Josephus were 30 cubits wide each ; about 90 feet alto- gether, shewing a difference of only 10 feet 6 ! I ask if it be not a most gratifying result, that the comparison thus instituted shews so close an agreement of existing phaenomena with the Jewish measurement, as nearly as we can approximate to it? I confess it surpasses my most sanguine expectations ; and I think that such a result should dispose us to attach some weight to their other observa- tions on the same subject, because, if they were accurately informed on this point, it was not likely that they would have fallen into great error on the other; for if the autho- rities for this assertion trusted only to their eye, and yet guessed so near, could they have imagined that the court was square if it had been oblong, as at present? It is necessary to insist on the credibility of these ac- counts, because a gentleman whose opinion is worthy of some consideration as a professional man, thinks that he has discovered within the present enclosure satisfactory evi- dence that the court of the ancient temple was co-exten- 8 Ant. xv. c. xi. 5. ov yap fjv ex- Telvai Trpocrui'Tepto Svva-ruv. 6 I suppose Josephus to have reck- oned by the common cubit, best known to the Romans, generally reckoned at 1A feet. 326 THE HOLY CITY. [PART II. sive with it; and as this evidence is found at the north- west and south-east angles of the area, its establishment as fact would determine the question against Josephus and the Talmud. I have been anxious to shew that they were pro- bably not writing at random or in the dark, and that consequently the arguments must be very strong indeed to justify us in setting aside their testimony. What are the arguments ? The perpendicular rock at the north-west, and the raised platform at the south-east angle. Of the former of these he says, that "the cutting away of the rock must of course be of the time of Solo- mon. It could need no repair, and is the only work (connected with the temple) that can with absolute cer- tainty be referred to that monarch 1 ." And of the latter, "the whole substruction appears to me to be of Roman origin, and in connexion with the Golden Gate, and the one beneath the El-Aksa, together with the ancient bridge, to have formed a connected plan of foundation and ap- proaches to the great Temple of Herod 2 ." Reserving for future consideration the question whether one of these re- mains might not admit of a satisfactory explanation on an- other theory, I will beg leave to presume for a time that it can, and will proceed to another point of deep interest. Supposing the Jewish account to be in the main cor- rect, and the temple-area to have been nearly a square of from 900 to 1000 feet, how are we to account for the present aspect of the haram, whose length exceeds its breadth more than one half, and at which end has the addition been made? Dr Robinson has accounted for the 1 Catherwood (in Bartlett's Walks), estimate of Josephus should be so low. p. 175. I regret that this gentleman's 2 Ib. p. 171. CH. II.] THE HOLY CITY. 327 difference by an ingenious hypothesis, that the fortress of Antonia covered the whole north side of the temple, and that the space formerly occupied by that fortress was taken into the court of Adrian's idol-temple, and is now included within the haram : and this hypothesis he thinks is sup- ported by the remark of the Jewish historian, that the circuit of the temple, including the Antonia, was six stadia 3 ; and it is obvious that his view would most satisfactorily ex- plain the meaning of this obscure passage 4 . But there is, unfortunately, one insuperable objection at least to this theory, which must have escaped the writer's notice, or he could not have passed it over without some attempt at explanation. It is obvious, from numerous pas- sages, that the whole of the north wall of the temple was not covered by the fortress in question. When Ponipey had been received into the city by the Roman faction, he proceeded to force the temple, which was occupied by the adverse party of Aristobulus. To effect this he pitched his camp within the city on the north part of the temple, where it was most practicable ; but even on that side there were great towers, and a ditch had been dug in which a bank was raised with great labour, and the ditch filled up, though but poorly, by reason of its immense depth, and on this the engines were placed, and the wall battered, until a breach was effected through which the temple was taken 5 . Again, when Cestius had set fire to Bezetha at the be- ginning of the Jewish war, and had attempted for five days, without success, to effect his entrance into the upper 3 Joseph. Bell. Jud. v. v. 2. 4 See Bib. Res. i. 430, &c. he says, "This conjecture is supported by various facts, while it is, so far as I know, contradicted by none" 432. 5 Ant. xiv. iv. 2, 3. ...jrd\iv...T< Hfv aXAa irdirra ovav\u>dpayyi .... /uoAts TrXtifrOe/ffjjs TOV rd fKKotyav ets tro\iopKtav ev-rpe- Tri%6/jievoi. Ant. xiv. iv. I. Com- pare B. J. 1. vii. eli TO Iep6i> dvexw- pci Kai Trjv ffvvdirTOuaav aw' auTov rtji/ ye diroKoi//ai;T6, K. T. \. 3 direppioyei ydp Kal -rd Trp&s TJJV iroXii/, T) yf' ou Sifjye IIo/iMrtjios. Ant. ut sup. The meaning of the last four words is very obscure. Hudson's translation has ' intcrrupto ponte qua partc dege- bat Pompeius," which is not very in- telligible; Whiston has "the bridge on which Pompey had gotten was broken down." Does he use "had" for " would have" ? In any case it does not give the sense of the original. 3 Bell. Jud. n. xvi. 3. "aifxtj ydp ijv etrdvia TOU fcvffTov ir/ods T& Trepav Tr/savta irdXeais, Kal ye Td lepov (ruv^iTTei/." The xystus, as is plain from the context, was a place for public assemblies. * "IffTUTO KOTO TO TTjOOS OUOTIW fliepOt CH. II. THE HOLY CITY. 345 house of the Asmonaeans," but whether or no, it is certain that this last-named palace was above the xystus, at the western extremity of the bridge that led to the temple from the upper city. But the passage from the southern part of the temple to the palace on Zion was formed by the filling up of the valley*, or by the causeway, as it is called in Scripture 6 , terminating in the gate Shallecheth, the gate of the Embankment, according to Lightfoot 7 . Therefore the bridge and the causeway are identical. Again, the north wall of Zion, as it approached the temple, passed the xystus, and was joined to the council-chamber 8 , so that it must have run in the same line with the bridge, which also joined the xystus. But it is surely very unlikely, to say the least, that this old wall, besides making an angle, contrary to the words of Josephus 9 , should be carried down a pre- cipitous rock of 20 or 30 feet, as it must have been had it crossed the valley near Dr Robinson's bridge, (where the xystus must have stood, if his view be correct,) un- less indeed it was carried over, or rather down the bridge, which perhaps, as it was composed of such very large stones, might have borne it; but then it would have been TOV I^wOev lepov. Tai/Ty yap virep TOV u dvta Tro\iv." B. J. VI. vi. 2. icaTot TOV u<7Toi> e ov Kai TTJV yevpav Kai TOV Si/xwvos irvpyov, K.T. \. ; ibid. viii. 1. 5 T/ ...aKpav, eis t()f/)os auTrfi/ /coOeiXev (cal TOVTO Troti/ffas, dpitrTov eSoKei Kai cvft, cJira> tn//j- XoTepov jj T() iep6v (cat Tra'i/res irpo} oV/oas (fat TOW opovs e(f>' (Z ijv dvi]priu.eviov. Ant. xiii. vi. 6. CH. II. THE HOLY CITY. 353 company 7 ." I do not think that these two accounts are irreconcileable. It appears very likely that the scarping of the rock at the north-west of the haram, and the cutting it perpendicular at that angle to the depth of 20 feet, is to be referred to this time 8 ; so that the rock in ques- tion, which rose perhaps higher than its present level in the direction of the temple, was much reduced ; for the labour of so many willing workmen, engaged incessantly night and day for three years and a half, must have ac- complished a work of considerable magnitude. Probably some buildings on the northern quarter of the tower were left standing, or if not, a fortress was soon erected there in which Simon dwelt, and which was afterwards occupied by Aristobulus 9 , and used as a state prison by Alexandra 10 . It served now as a garrison for the Jewish troops, yet was so contrived as to be a defence to them in time of war, by cutting off the communication with the temple. Two flights of steps led down from the height of the precipice to the cloisters below ; by destroying that part of the cloisters connected with the stair-case the approach was cut off. And this was done on two occasions : first, when Florus was intending to possess himself of the temple through Antonia, the Jews, we read, immediately got upon those cloisters of the temple that joined to Antonia, and 7 1 Mace. xiii. 52. Compare xiv. 37. " He placed Jews therein, and fortified it for the safety of the country and of the city." Josephus, Ant. xiii. vi.7. 8 Josephus says of Antonia, " Se- SO/J.IJTO 6' inrep ireTpa-: irevrriKoirraTrii- ^ous fjiev \i\ffo^ -irfpiKpqvov oe iracrtjs." J. W. v. v. 8. I think Prideaux must be right, when he says : " These 50 23 cubits are not to be understood of the side next the temple, but of the other sides off from it, upon the brow of the mountain, on which the temple stood, where this rock, from the valley beneath up to the top whereon the castle was built, was 50 cubits high." Connex. (ann. 107, note.) 9 Joseph. J. W. i. iii. 3. 10 Ibid. v. 4. 354 THE HOLY CITY. [PART n. cut them down; and as soon as the cloisters were broken down he gave up the attempt. The second occasion was that already referred to. Titus did not reckon upon such an obstinate defence of the Jews, and did not expect that they would have recourse to such expedients as burning their temple. When he took Antonia, the Romans pursued the Jews down the steps by which they had retreated to the temple, and the battle was continued there for several successive days 1 , until the Jews, with desperate resolution, "set fire to the north-west cloister which was joined to the tower of Antonia, and afterwards broke off 20 cubits more of that cloister 2 , nor ceased from the work of de- molition until the tower was parted from the temple. When this was done, nothing remained but to form an inclined plane down the precipice by overthrowing the massive foundations of the tower, while the works were pressed forward on other quarters of the outer area 3 . It would seem probable that a greater part of the for- tress was attached to the northern than to the western side of the area, not only from the present appearance of the rock which extends, I believe, much further on the north than on the west side of the angle, but also from the lan- guage of Josephus, who generally speaks of its situation as at the north 4 , although in some passages he is more definite 5 . I imagine then that the Antonia extended about as far east as the present seraglio, about 400 feet further west than the western boundary of the haram, and covered a hill which rises in this quarter, and is probably part of the same rock 6 ; 1 See J. W. vi. i. 7, 8. 8 Ibid. vi. ii. 9. 3 See above, Part i. cap. ii. 4 Ant. xv. xi. 4: KUTO T^V fio- peiov ir\evpdv, J. W. I. xxi. 1 : TO lepov Kal TO ftopeiov eir' avroo rppovpiov. s KOTO ytoviav fiev Svo trrowv etceiro rd TOV irptoTov lepov, TO Te irpoy ecnrepav, Kal TO TTp6TeXu> di\f/rip6v, XVI. p. 723. Again, ait-ro fi.ev evvSpov, TTt\v Sk KVK\U> \), the writers of the middle ages small (fons modicus, &c.) W. T. 1. c. It should be observed, that Dr Robin- son, pp. 507, 8, proposes to make this " the Pool of Bethesda," and the ir- regular now, " the troubling of the waters by the angel !" 380 THE HOLY CITY. [PART 11. leads under the village of Siloam, hanging on the steep side of the Mount of Offence, chiefly composed of chambers exca- vated in the rock, once the receptacles of the dead, now the abodes of the villagers and their cattle ; below in the expanding bed of the valley is a verdant spot, refreshing to the eye during the heat of summer, while, all around is parched and dun. These are the gardens of the villagers, cultivated in terraces composed of soil which has either been washed down by the rains, or brought from a distance, and watered from the pool, to which we must now proceed. Turn- ing to the right, round a sharp angle of rock, we enter the mouth of the valley of the Tyropaeon, and passing under the precipitous rock, which has a small channel for the water cut in its base, we soon arrive at the Pool of Siloam. Here there is a descent through a chasm in the rock to a small basin at the end of the channel, by which all the water not drawn off at the fountain is conveyed to this point. The pool itself is a small tank 1 just without the fissure, of an oblong form, remarkable for nothing but some fragments of marble columns projecting from its sides, pro- bably the remains of a church 2 ; the water is confined in this or in the rocky basin, and drawn off, as occasion requires, to irrigate the gardens beneath. There is every appearance of there having existed for- merly a much larger reservoir than the present, immedi- ately to the east of it, confined at the lower end by a substantial wall of masonry, which now forms a dry bridge, at the south end of which is the ancient tree said to mark the spot of Isaiah's martyrdom. This larger hollow is now 1 Dr Robinson gives it 53 feet long, 18 feet broad, and 19 deep. Bib. Res. i. p. 497 ; where, and at pp. 341, 2, will be found a most minute description. 2 The building was still standing, but converted into a mosk, in Sandys' time, (1611). Travels, p. 147- CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 381 filled with soil and cultivated ; but earlier travellers 3 confirm the opinion which its appearance would suggest, and notice a second pool in this spot. The next fountain which I shall mention is one within the city, near the area of the Great Mosk, known only by report until very lately, when an enterprising traveller under- took to explore it ; and the company to whom he related the adventure in the small shed built over the mouth of the well by which he affected his perilous descent, will not easily forget the thrilling sensations which his narration pro- duced. This fountain is used to supply a bath, which has been briefly noticed above as existing near one of the western entrances to the haram. The present mouth of the well is on the roof of the buildings attached to the bath, and is found to be about 20 feet above the level of the street. Dr Robinson had in vain sought permission to explore this well, but the reports which he had heard of it 4 excited the curiosity of a countryman of his who was at Jerusalem in the winter of 18412, and he resolved at all events to de- scend 5 . Having endeavoured, without success, to induce the keeper of the bath to assist him in the undertaking, he pre- vailed on two peasants of a neighbouring village to aid him in it. This was in the month of January. At the dead of 3 See Bib. Res. i. 498. Sandys speaks of it as dry in his time ; " con- taining not above half an acre of ground, now dry in the bottom." p. 146. 4 Bib. Res. i. 508, &c. 5 This was Mr Woolcott, an Ame- rican Congregational missionary at Beirout, who has been already quoted. The narrative was published in Ame- rica, in 1842, in a First Supplement to the Bib. Res. ; a copy of which Mr Woolcott was kind enough to send me, and afterwards in Part I. of the Biblio. Sacra, p. 24, &c. With these I refresh my memory of the most graphic description of the adventurer, at the well's mouth, which made me shudder. 382 THE HOLY CITY. [PART II. night, attended only by a servant-lad, and furnished with candles and matches, a measuring-rule, moreover, and a com- pass, forth he sallied, equipped as for an aquatic excursion. Arrived at the well's mouth, he tied a cord round his body, and was lowered through the aperture by these fellahs, who had kept their appointment, but would, without doubt, have let the rope slip, and left their employer to his fate on the slightest alarm. However, he survived to tell the tale, an outline of which shall here be given. The entrance to the well is not quite two feet square, but a few feet lower down it expands and becomes about 12 feet square, and is apparently hewn in the rock. His first adventure in this aerial journey was meeting the leathern bucket which had been tied at the other end of the rope as a counterpoise. It was " streaming at a dozen aper- tures, and for the rest of the way he was under a cold shower-bath, and could with difficulty keep his light with- out the circle of it." The well was 821 f ee t deep, and the water about 41. On arriving at the bottom, the vi- brations of the rope, before he could get a footing, ex- tinguished his light, and he was left in total darkness. He had observed in his descent four arched recesses in the rock opposite to one another, and lower down, 6 feet above the water, a door-way leading into an arched cham- ber, which he contrived to reach, and here he refitted for his further voyage. The matches were dry, and other candles soon illuminated the darkness. The excavated cham- ber in which he found himself, was only 3 or 4 feet in height, 15 long by 10 broad, and did not seem to be constructed with any reference to the water. Opposite to this chamber he discovered a passage which formed the wa- ter-channel. He had taken the precaution of bringing with him an india-rubber life preserver, which he found useful CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 383 in his further explorations. He now descended into the water, and entered the passage, and soon passed another excavation in the rock, of which he could make nothing. The passage beyond this was 2 or 3 feet wide, and about 5 feet high, covered with stones laid transversely, but very irregularly ; in some places were fragments of polished marble shafts, and in one place the end of a granite column had sunk obliquely into the passage. The bottom of the channel was not flat, but grooved, and the passage not straight, though its general course was direct; and " the cutting so uneven as to suggest the thought that advantage might have been taken of a natural seam or fissure in the rock." Having followed this passage 80 feet, he was stopped by a bason or well of unknown depth, on the opposite side of which the wall shut down to the water, and presented another obstacle, even could the water have been passed. Unhappily he was obliged to return without any more satisfactory result. His exit is amusingly characteristic of cool intrepidity. He had barely breathing room or space for his candle between the surface of the water and the roof of the passage ; and one would think must have felt rather uncomfortable in such a position; but he first measured the passage with his rule, then illu- minated it with his spare candles, and having taken a last fond look, left them burning there, and returned to the well to prepare for his ascent. The rope was still there, and the natives above. The signal was given, and he again found himself swinging in mid-air, and in darkness, the candle which he had reserved having been extinguished as before. "His descent had been uniform, but he was necessarily drawn up at intervals, which caused a greater vibration. He spun around the dark vault, striking against one side and another," and was not sorry to find him- 384 THE HOLY CITY. [PART II. self again " beneath the open heaven." It is deeply to be regretted that this daring exploit was not attended with better success. Its results are very unsatisfactory to Mr Woolcott himself. He does not imagine that this excava- tion was originally a well : the artificial recesses and cham- bers in the rock he thinks are against it. It more nearly resembles some of the sepulchral excavations without the city. The direction of the passage he cannot positively determine, as he had injured his compass in the descent. He thinks it runs eastward in the direction of the haram ; but if so, it stops short of the enclosure 44 feet 1 . The pas- sage may extend further, the water descending into a lower gallery ; if so, it could only be explored when the water is very low. Two English travellers were anxious to attempt this at the end of a dry summer, but no one could be pre- vailed on to aid the undertaking, and it was abandoned. At that time it was necessary for a man to descend to the well, in order to bring the water from a distance to sup- ply the bath, as the floor of the chamber was then dry. A close cross-examination of this man elicited that the water proceeded from an immense reservoir beneath the haram, but it did not appear that he had penetrated so far. It must be remarked that the water is identical in taste with that of Siloam. The next fountain I have not seen noticed, and, so far as I know, its existence has not been hitherto known out of Jerusalem. I had heard of a constant and abundant well of water within the precincts of the Church of the Flagellation, close to the seraglio, which supplies the Fran- ciscan monastery during the dryest summer. I visited it 1 The distance of the well from the wall of the haram was found to be 124 feet, and he penetrated underground only 80. CH. III.] THE HOLY CITY. 385 on March 13th and 14th, 1843, and obtained the following additional particulars from the monk who had the charge of the premises. The church is very ancient, but had fallen into ruin until the Franciscans, about a year and a half before my visit, had procured a firman for its restoration 2 . In the course of the repairs an immense quantity of water was required, and the well in question was exhausted, and cleaned out. In two days it was full again, although it was towards the end of the dry season, before any rain had fallen. When I saw the well there were in it between eight and nine feet of water, which completely filled a cavity in the rock, and came up into its mouth, which was also bored through the rock. The water was almost within arm's reach of the opening, and remarkably clear. The cavity I learnt extends some distance east and west; but as I was disappointed in seeing the man who had been employed to cleanse it, I could not ascertain its nature so exactly as I wished. 1 tasted the water there could be no mistake it was the " water of Siloam ! " Thus then we have at these three different points three fountains, without any apparent connexion one with ano- ther, all supplied with this peculiar water, utterly unlike any I remember to have tasted in that neighbourhood or elsewhere. I am strongly disposed to conclude, from this fact, that there must be a connexion, but how it is very difficult to determine. The existence of immense reservoirs under the temple- 2 See Maundrell, under date April 8. He states that it had been " used as a stable by the son of a certain Bassa of Jerusalem." When he was there, 1696, it was a weaver's shop. In con- firmation of the former part, it may be 25 noticed that Anselm (circ. 1509) says of this church, "De ilia Capella fecerunt (Sarrauni) stabulum jumentorum." Descrip. Terr. Sane, apud Canis. Thes. iv. p. 792. 386 THE HOLY CITY. [PART 11. area, is a theory which still requires ocular proof, but is so supported by ancient tradition, that I think it cannot reasonably be doubted. Among the other works of Simon the Just, the son of Onias, about the temple at Jerusalem, in the reign of Ptolemy Soter of Egypt, we read, " In his days the cistern to receive water, being in compass as the sea, was covered with plates of brass 1 ." During the reign of Soter's successor, Philadelphus, Jerusalem was visited by Aristeas, who has left us a full account of this cistern, or rather series of cisterns, beneath the sacred precincts; and although the account may appear to "border some- what on the fabulous," yet, making considerable allowance for hyperbole both in this and the former passage, it may be admitted as evidence to the existence of large reservoirs in the neighbourhood of the temple ; and there is one very singular coincidence, manifestly undesigned, between this and the fore-cited passage, which is worthy of remark 2 . He states that " a powerful natural spring gushes out copiously and unceasingly from within, and is received into subter- ranean reservoirs, the extent of which is surprising and be- yond description, to the circumference of five stadia about the temple. They are connected by numberless pipes through which the waters flow from one to another. There 1 Ecclus. 1. 3. * U&CLTOS ie a'i/e(c\er7TTos ea-ri arv- ai> KOI Trr/yf/v efftoQeu tro- \\ippvTo\i