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 ■11BANY, PUBLISHED BY E.&
 
 NARRATIVE JOUHWVL 
 
 GJ? 
 
 AV <fi 
 
 M4Mm 
 
 THROUGH THE NORTHWESTERN REGIONS OF THE UNITED STATES 
 
 EXTENDING 
 
 FROM DETROIT THROUGH THE GREAT CHAIN 
 
 I 
 
 OF 
 
 AMERICAN LAKES, 
 
 TO 
 
 THE SOURCES OF 
 
 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 
 
 PERFORMED AS A MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION UNDER 
 GOVERNOR CASS. 
 
 7JV THE YEAR 1820. 
 
 By HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT, 
 
 Member of the New-York Historical Society, of the Academy of Natural Sciences e* 
 
 Philadelphia, of the New- York Lyceum of Natural History, and of the 
 
 Lyceum of Natural History of Troy. 
 
 EMBELLISHED WITH A MAP AND EIGHT COPPER PLATE ENGRAVINGS, 
 
 ALBANY.* 
 PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY E. & E. HOSFORD, 
 
 SO. 100, STATE-STREET. 
 
 1821.
 
 NQBTI1ERN DISTRICT OF NEW-tORS, To W\i 
 
 A\, 
 
 JE IT REMEMBERED, tliat on the thirtieth day of January, in tite fo.-iy- 
 £. s. fifth year of the Independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1821, E. 
 & E. Hosford of the said District, have deposited in this office the title of a Book, 
 the right whereof they claim as Proprietors in the words fallowing, towit :—•' Narra • 
 tisc Journal of Travels, through the northwestern regions of the United States, extending front 
 Detroit through the great chain of American Lakes to the sources of the Mississippi River, 
 performed as a member of the expedition under Governor Cass, in the year 1£20 By Henry 
 R Schoolcraft, member of the New-York Historical Society, of the Academy of Natura' 
 ' i iencea at Philadelphia, of the New-Yoru Lyceum of Natural History, and of the Lyceum of 
 Natural History of Troy. Embellished with a map and eight copper plate engravings." 
 
 In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United Stales, entitled -'An act tor the en- 
 couragement of learning, by securing the copies of Maps. Charts, and Books, to the authors 
 and proprietors of such copies, during the times the rein mentioned ;" and also, to the act 
 entitled " An act supplementary to an act entitled "An act for the encouragement of learn- 
 ing, by securing tile copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the authors and proprietors of 
 biich copies during the limes then in mentioned, and extending the benclits thereof to the 
 arts til Designing, Engraving and Etching historical and other prims." 
 
 RICHARD R LANSING, 
 Clerk of the Norlliern District of Nciu-Tork.
 
 VI 3 
 
 TO THE 
 
 HOK. JOYW C. CMALOUK, 
 
 SECRETARY AT WAR. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 Allow me to inscribe to you the following Jour- 
 nal, as an illustration of my several reports, on the 
 mineralogy of the regions visited by the recent ex- 
 pedition, under Gov. Cass. 
 
 I beg you will consider it, not only as a proof of 
 my anxiety to be serviceable in the station occupied, 
 but also, as a tribute of individual regard, for those 
 exertions which have been made, during your admi- 
 nistration of the War Department, to develope the 
 physical character and resources of all parts of our 
 country, — to the patronage it has extended to the 
 cause of science, — to the protection it has afforded 
 to a very extensive line of frontier settlements, by 
 stretching our cordon of military posts, through the 
 territories of the most remote and hostile tribes of 
 savages, — and particularly, to the notice it has be- 
 stowed upon one of the humblest cultivators of natu- 
 ral science. 
 
 HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT.
 
 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 
 
 I/'harlevoix informs us, that the discovery of the 
 Mississippi river, is due to Father Joseph Mar- 
 quette, a Jesuit missionary, who manifested the most 
 unwearied enterprize in exploring the northwestern 
 regions of New France ; and after laying the found- 
 ation of Michilimackinac, proceeded, in company 
 with the Sieur Joliet, up the Fox river of Green 
 Bay, and crossing the portage into the Ousconsing, 
 first entered the Mississippi, in 1673. 
 
 Mons. Robert de la Salle, to whom the merit of this 
 discovery is generally attributed, embarked at Ro- 
 chelle, on his first voyage of discovery, July 14, 1678 
 — reached Quebec in September following, and pro- 
 ceeding up the St. Lawrence, laid the foundation of 
 Fort Niagara, in the country of the Iroquois, late in 
 the fall of that year. In the following year, he pass- 
 es up the Niagara river — estimates the height of the 
 falls, at six hundred feet — and proceeding through 
 lakes Erie, St. Clair, and Huron, reaches Michili- 
 mackinac, in August. He then visits the Sault de St. 
 Marie, and returning to Michilimackinac, continues 
 his voyage to the south, with a view of striking the 
 Mississippi river — passes into the lake of the Illi- 
 nois — touches at Green Bay — and enters the riv-
 
 VI INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 
 
 er St. Joseph's, of Lake Michigan, where he 
 builds a fort in the country of the Miamies. In 
 December, of the same year, he crosses the portage 
 between the St. Joseph's and the, Illinois — de- 
 scends the latter to the ; and builds a fort in 
 the midst of the tribes .ie Illinois, w^ichhe calls 
 Crevecceur. Here he mukes a stand — sends persons 
 out to explore the Mississippi — traffics with the In- 
 dians, among all of whom he finds abundance of In- 
 dian corn ; and returns to Fo* t Frontenac, on Lake 
 Ontario, in 1680. He revisits fort Crevecceur, late 
 in the autumn of the following year; and finally de- 
 scends the Illinois, to its junction with the Mississip- 
 pi, and thence to the embouchure of the latter, in the 
 Gulf of Mexico, where he arrives on the seventh of 
 April, 1683, and calculates the latitude between 
 23° and 24° north. The Spaniards had previously 
 sought in vain for the mouth of this stream, and be- 
 stowed upon it, in anticipation, the name of Del Rio 
 Jlscondido. La Salle now returns to Quebec, by the 
 way of the lakes, and from thence to France, where 
 lie is well received by the king, who grants him an 
 outfit of four ships and two hundred men, to enable 
 him to continue his discoveries, and found a colony, 
 in the newly discovered territories. He leaves Ro- 
 chclle, in July, 1681 — reaches the bay of St. Louis, 
 which is fifty leagues south of the Mississippi, in the 
 Gulf of Mexico, in February following, where he 
 builds a fort — founds a settlement, and is finally as- 
 sassinated by one of his own party. The exertions 
 of this enterprising individual, and the account which 
 was published of his discoveries by the Chevalier 
 Tonti, who had accompanied him in all his perilous 
 ♦■xpeditions, had a greater effect, in the French ca-
 
 JNTROrUCTORY REMARKS. VH 
 
 pital, in producing a correct estimate of the extent, 
 productions, and importance, of the Canadas, than 
 all that had been done by preceding tourists ; and 
 this may be considered as the true era, when the 
 eyes of poPicians and u *s, merchants and spe- 
 culators, \VeYe first stron. turned towards the 
 boundless forests, — the sublime rivers and lakes, — 
 the populous Indian tribes, and the profitable com- 
 merce of New France. 
 
 ■ 
 Father Louis Hennepin, was a missionary of the 
 
 Franciscan order of Catholics, who accompanied La 
 Salle on his first voyage from France ; and after the 
 building of fort Crevecoeur, on the Illinois, was des- 
 patched in company with three French voyageurs, 
 to explore the Mississippi river. They departed 
 from fort Crevecoeur, on the twenty-ninth of Febru- 
 ary, 1780, and dropping down the Illinois, to its junc- 
 tion with the Mississippi, followed the latter to the 
 Gulf, where they left some memorial of their visit, 
 and immediately commenced their return. When 
 they had proceeded up the Mississippi, a hundred 
 and fifty leagues above the confluence of the Illinois, 
 they were taken prisoners by some Indian tribes, 
 and carried towards its sources, nineteen days' jour- 
 ney, into the territories of the Naudowessies and 
 Issati ; where they were detained in captivity three 
 or four months, and then suffered to return. The 
 account which Hennepin published of his travels 
 and discoveries, served to throw some new light up- 
 on the topography, and the Indian tribes of the Ca- 
 nadas ; and modern geography is indebted to him. 
 lor the names which he bestowed upon the falls of 
 St. Anthony, and the river St. Francis.
 
 Vlii INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 
 
 In 1703, the Baron La Hontan published in Lon- 
 don his voyages to North America, the result of a 
 residence of six years in the Canadas. La Hontan 
 served as an officer in the French army, and first 
 went out to Quebec in 1683. During the succeeding 
 four years he was chiefly stationed at Chambly, 
 Fort Frontenac, Niagara, St. Joseph at the foot of 
 Lake Huron, and the Sault de St. Marie. He ar- 
 rives at Michilimackinac in 1688, and there first 
 hears of the assassination of La Salle. In l689,he vis- 
 its Green Bay, and passes through the Fox and Ous- 
 consing rivers into the Mississippi. So far, his work 
 appears to be the result of actual observation, and 
 is entitled to respect; but what he relates of Long 
 River, appears wholly incredible, and can only be 
 regarded as some flight of the imagination, intend- 
 ed to gratify the public taste for travels, during an 
 age when it had been highly excited by the extra- 
 vagant accounts which had been published respect- 
 ing the wealth, population, and advantages of Peru, 
 Mexico, the English and Dutch colonics, New 
 France, the Illinois, and various other parts of the 
 New World. To \jonvey some idea of this part of 
 the Baron's work, it will be sufficient to observe, 
 that after travelling ten days above the mouth of 
 the Ousconsing, he arrives at the mouth of a large 
 stream which he calls Long River, and which 
 he ascends eighty-four days successively, during 
 which he meets with numerous tribes of savages, as 
 the Eskoros, Essanapes, Pinnokas, Mozemleeks, &e. 
 He is attended a part of the way by five or six 
 hundred savages as an escort — sees at one time, two 
 thousand savages upon the shore — and states the 
 population of the Essanapes. at 20,000 souls ; but
 
 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. IX 
 
 this tribe is still inferior to the Mozemleeks in num- 
 bers, in arts, and in every other prerequisite for a 
 great people. " The Mozemleek nation," he ob- 
 serves, " is numerous and puissant. The lour slaves 
 of that country informed me, that at the distance oi* 
 150 leagues from the place where I then was, their 
 principal river empties itself into a salt lake of three 
 hundred leagues in circumference — the mouth of 
 which is about two leagues broad; that the lower 
 part of that river is adorned with six noble cities, 
 surrounded with stone, cemented with fat earth ; 
 that the houses of these cities have no roofs, but are 
 open above like a platform ; that besides the above 
 mentioned cities, there are an hundred towns great 
 and small round that sort of sea ; that the people of 
 that country make stuffs, copper axes, and several 
 other manufactures, &c." 
 
 In 1721, P. De Charlevoix, the historian of New 
 France, was commissioned by the French Govern- 
 ment, to make a tour of observation through the 
 Canadas ; and in addition to his topographical and 
 historical account of New France, published a 
 journal of his voyage through the lakes. He was 
 one of the most learned divines of his age, and al- 
 though strongly tinctured with the doctrines of fa- 
 tality, and disposed to view every thing relative to 
 the Indian tribes with the over-zealous eye of a 
 Catholic missionary, yet his works bear the impress 
 of a strong and well cultivated mind, and abound in 
 philosophical reflections, enlarged views, and accu- 
 rate deductions ; and notwithstanding the lapse of 
 a century, he must still be regarded as the most 
 polished and illustrious traveller of the region. He
 
 X INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 
 
 first landed at Quebec in the spring of 1721, and 
 immediately proceeded up the St. Lawrence to 
 Fort Frontenac and Niagara, where he corrects the 
 error in which those who preceded him had fallen, 
 with respect to the height of the cataract. He pro- 
 ceeds through lakes Erie, Huron, and Michigan, 
 descends the Illinois and Mississippi to New Or- 
 leans, then recently settled, and embarks for 
 France. The period of his visit, was that, when the 
 Mississippi Scheme was in the height of experiment, 
 and excited the liveliest interest in the French me- 
 tropolis ; people were then engaged in Louisiana in 
 exploring every part of the country, under the de- 
 lusive hope of finding rich mines of gold and sil- 
 ver; and the remarks he makes upon the probability 
 of a failure, were shortly justified by the event. 
 
 In 1760, Alexander Henry, Esq. visited the upper 
 lakes in the character of a trader, and devoted six- 
 teen years in travelling over different parts of the 
 northwestern region of the Canadas and the United 
 States. The result of his observations upon the 
 topography, Indian tribes, and natural history of 
 the country, was first published in 1809, in a volume 
 of travels and adventures, which is a valuable ac- 
 quisition to our means of information. His work 
 abounds in just and sensible reflections, upon 
 scenes, situations, and objects of the most interest- 
 ing kind ; and is written in a style of the most 
 charming perspicuity and simplicity. He was the 
 first English traveller of the region. 
 
 The date of Carver's travels over those regions, 
 js 176G. Carver was descended from an ancient and
 
 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. XI 
 
 respectable English family in Connecticut, and had 
 served as a captain in the provincial army which 
 was disbanded after the treaty of peace of Ver- 
 sailles, of 1763; and united to great personal cour- 
 age, a persevering and observing mind. By his 
 bravery and admirable conduct among the powerful 
 tribes of Sioux and Chippeways, he obtained a 
 high standing among them ; and after being consti- 
 tuted a chief by the former, received from them 
 a large grant of land, which was not, however, rati- 
 fied by the British government. The fate of this 
 enterprising traveller, cannot but excite regret. — 
 After having escaped the massacre of Fort William 
 Henry, on the banks of Lake George, in 1757, and 
 the perils of a long journey through the American 
 wilderness, he was spared to endure miseries in the 
 heart of the British metropolis, which he had never 
 encountered in the huts of the American savages; 
 and perished for want, in the city of London, the 
 geat of literature and opulence. 
 
 Between the years 1769 and 1772, Samuel 
 Hearne performed a journey from Prince of Wales's 
 fort in Hudson's bay, to the copper mine river of the 
 arctic ocean. 
 
 McKenzie's voyages to the Frozen and Pacific 
 Oceans, were performed in 1789 and 1793. 
 
 \ Pike ascended the Mississippi in 1805, and 1806, 
 
 Such is a brief outline of the progress of disco- 
 very in the northwestern regions of the United 
 States, by which our sources of information have
 
 XJI IM'RODBCTORY REMARKS, 
 
 been from time to time augmented, and additional 
 light cast upon the interesting history of our Indian 
 frihes, their numbers, manners, customs, trade, reli- 
 gion, condition with respect to comforts, and other 
 particulars connected with the regions they inhabit. 
 Still, it cannot be denied, that amidst much sound and 
 useful information, there has been mingled no incon- 
 siderable proportion, that is deceptive, hypothetical, 
 or false ; and upon the whole, that the progress of 
 information has not kept pace with the increased im^ 
 portance which that section of the union has latter- 
 ly assumed — with the great improvements of socie- 
 ty — and with the spirit and the enterprize of the 
 times. A new era has dawned in the moral history 
 of our country, and no longer satisfied with mere 
 geographical outlines and boundaries, its physical 
 productions, its antiquities, and the numerous other 
 traits which it presents for scientific research, al- 
 ready attract the attention of a great proportion of 
 the reading community ; and it is eagerly enquired 
 of various sections of it, whose trade, whose agri- 
 culture, and whose population, have been long 
 known, what are its indigenous plants, its zoology, 
 its geology, its mineralogy, &*c. Of no part of it, 
 however, has the paucity of information upon these, 
 and upon other and more familiar subjects, been so 
 great, as of the extreme northwestern regions of the 
 union — of the great chain of lakes — and of the sources 
 of the Mississippi river, which have continued to be 
 the subject of dispute between geographical writers. 
 
 Impressed with the importance of these facts, 
 Governor Cass, of Michigan, projected, in the fall 
 of 1819, an expedition for exploring the regions in 
 question; and presented a memorial to the Secreta-
 
 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. Xlll 
 
 ry at War upon the subject, in which he proposed 
 leaving Detroit in the ensuing spring, in two Indian 
 canoes, as being best adapted to the navigation of the 
 shallow waters of the upper country, and to the nu- 
 merous portages which it is necessary to make from 
 stream to stream. 
 
 The specific objects of this journey, were to ob- 
 tain a more correct knowledge of the names, num- 
 bers, customs, history, condition, mode of subsist- 
 ence, and dispositions of the Indian tribes — to sur- 
 vey the topography of the country, and collect the 
 materials for an accurate map — to locate the site of 
 a garrison at the foot of Lake Superior, and to pur- 
 chase the ground — to investigate the subject of the 
 northwestern copper mines, lead mines, and gypsum 
 quarries, and to purchase from the Indian tribes 
 such tracts as might be necessary to secure to the 
 United States the ultimate advantages to be derived 
 from them, &c. To accomplish these objects, it 
 was proposed to attach to the expedition a topo- 
 graphical engineer, a physician, and a person ac- 
 quainted with mineralogy. 
 
 Mr. Calhoun, not only approved of the proposed 
 plan, but determined to enable the Governor to car- 
 ry it into complete effect, by ordering an escort of 
 soldiers, and enjoining it upon the commandants of 
 the frontier garrisons, to furnish every aid that the 
 exigencies of the party might require, either in men, 
 boats, or supplies. It is only necessary to add, that 
 I was honoured with the appointment of mineralo- 
 gist to the expedition, in which capacity, I kept the
 
 XIV INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 
 
 following Journal.* In presenting it to the public, 
 it will not be deemed improper if I acknowledge the 
 obligations which I have incurred in transcribing it, 
 by availing myself of a free access to the valuable 
 Library of His Excellency De Witt Clinton; and 
 of the taste and skill of Mr. Henry lnman, in drawing 
 a number of the views which embellish the work. 
 HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. 
 Many, May lith, 1821. 
 
 * I have received enquiries from several individuals, grounded 
 on the supposition that my Journal would contain all the topo- 
 graphical information, collected on the expedition. It may be 
 proper to observe, that it only embraces my individual observa- 
 tions upon that, and the other subjects brought into view; and that 
 another work may be expected, containing Professor Douglass 9 
 Topographical Report and Map, together with the other Reports,, 
 and the scientific observations of the expedition generally.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. I.— Pf eliminary Tour from the City of New-York to Detroit, 17 
 
 CHAP. II. — Journey from Detroit to Michilimackinac, ... 66 
 
 CHAP. III. — Six Day's residence at Michilimackinac, . . 110 
 
 CHAP. IV. — Journey from Michilimackinac to the Sault deSt. Marie, 125 
 
 CHAP. V. — Journey from the Sault de St. Marie to the Ontonagon river, 141 
 
 CHAP. VI.— Visit to the Copper Mines, 171 
 
 CHAP. VII — Journey from the Ontonagon river to the Fond du Lac, 189 
 
 CHAP. VIH. — Journey from the Fond du Lac to Sandy Lake . . 206 
 
 CHAP. IX. — Journey from Sandy Lake to the Sources of the Mississippi, 238 
 CHAP. X. — Journey from Sandy Lake to the American Garrison at 
 
 St. Peter's, 269 
 
 CHAP. XI.— Journey from St. Peter's to Prairie du Chien, . . 315 
 
 CHAP. XII.— Visit to the Lead Mines of Dubuque, , . . 340 
 
 CHAP. XIH.— Journey from Prairie du Chien to Green Bay, , . 358 
 
 CHAP. XIV.— Journey from Green Bay to Chicago, . . . 378 
 
 CHAP. XV. — Journey from Chicago to Michilimackinac, « . 388 
 
 CHAP. XVI.— Return to Detroit, .... ^ . 408 
 
 THE PLATES. 
 
 Page 
 £L ATE I.— The Doric Rock on Lake Superior, (vignette on title page,) 
 
 Description of this view, 153 
 
 PLATE II.— Indian Canoe, and Manufactures, . , , , 68 
 
 PLATE III Sault de St. Marie 131 
 
 PLATE IV.— Geological View of Rock Formations on Lake Superior, 153 
 PLATE V.— Pictured Rocks on Lake Superior, . . . « 159 
 PLATE VI. — Copper Rock on the Ontonagon river, . . . 177 
 
 PL ATE Vn.— Falls of St. Anthony, 289 
 
 PLATE Vni— Fungite, 398 
 
 Cassin* Lake, (on the Map,) Description, .... 251
 
 NARRATIVE JOURNAL 
 
 THROUGH THE NORTHWESTERN REGIONS OF THE UNITED STATED 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PRELIMINARY TOUR, FROM THE CITY OF NEW-YORK 
 TO DETROIT. 
 
 X he determination of limiting the operations of the 
 expedition to the arctic regions of the United States, 
 and thereby putting it in our power to accomplish 
 the journey within the current year (1820) ; and the 
 desire of visiting the most remote points on our north- 
 western frontier during the summer season, had ren- 
 dered an early departure an object of the first mo- 
 ment. But the mode of our conveyance (in Indian 
 canoes) naturally detained us until the breaking up 
 of the ice in the lakes, and it was considered ex- 
 tremely hazardous to undertake the navigation until 
 they were perfectly clear of floating ice. This point 
 being determined, the members of the expedition, 
 were left to exercise their own judgment and con- 
 venience, as to the time and mode of proceeding to 
 the place of embarkation, Detroit. A time not ca- 
 pable of being designated with astronomical preci- 
 sion, but dependant wholly upon the natural distri- 
 bution of atmospheric heat, shewed the necessity of
 
 18 
 
 a careful attention to the state of the weather, and 
 the advance of spring. The year commenced with 
 south winds, changing to the southeast, west, and 
 northwest, and attended with light 6nows. # The 
 Delaware, Susquehanna, and the Hudson, as far as 
 West Point, were frozen hard on the first of January. 
 February gave a week of pleasant weather at the 
 commencement, which was succeeded with high 
 winds from the north, and northeast, and between 
 the tenth and eleventh there was a heavy fall of snow, 
 so that it lay four feet deep in the streets of New- 
 York. This gave good sleighing for two weeks, 
 when a thaw commenced, and the last days of the 
 month were mild and pleasant. March commenced 
 with unusual mildness, with varying and occasionally- 
 blustering wind, but no snow was to be seen on the 
 fourth of that month, and an opinion was entertained, 
 that the Hudson would open a fortnight before its 
 usual period.! Every appearance indicated an 
 early spring, an occurrence which we may, in our 
 
 * A meteorological register kept during this month in New- 
 York, indicated an average heat of 18° at 7 A. M. 2 8° at 2 P. M. 
 and 16° at 9 P. M. Out of the month, thirteen days were mark- 
 ed " cloudy," and eighteen " clear." The wind blew south seven 
 days, southeast six days, west five days, north four days, south- 
 west three days, and northwest seven days. Snow tell on the 
 10th, 17th, 21st, 25th, and 29th. 
 
 t In the year 1755, noted for the defeat of Gen. Dieskau, at 
 Lake George, the Hudson opened as far as Albany on the 14th 
 day of January, and the following year it was open on the 14lh of 
 February, so that Gov. Fletcher sailed from New York on that 
 day with 300 volunteers, to repel an irruption made by the French 
 upoi the Mohawks, and landed at Albany two days afterwards. 
 These are the mildest winters of which any record has been pre- 
 served. — Smith's History of IYew- York.
 
 1§ 
 
 climate, (latitude 40° to 44°) sometimes expect, and 
 which by terminating our winter with the month of 
 February, adds three or four weeks to our mildest 
 and most delightful season. Under this impression, 
 I left New-York on the 5th of March, in the citizens 1 
 post coach for Albany, a mode of conveyance which 
 only exists during the recess of the running of the 
 steam boats ; and which by combining a good de- 
 gree of comfort and convenience, compensates, so 
 far as land stages appear capable of compensating, 
 for the wonderful degree of celerity, comfort, and 
 ease, afforded by the line of internal steam boat na- 
 vigation, that connects New-lork and Albany, nine 
 months in the year.* Passing through Kings- 
 bridge, Phillipsbourg, Tarrytown, Sing Sing, and 
 Peekskill, we crossed the Highlands of the Hudson 
 during the evening, and lodged at Fishkill, a post 
 town of Dutchess county, sixty-five miles from New- 
 York. On the bth, we passed Poughkeepsie, Rhine- 
 beck, and Hudson, and lodged at Kinderhook, and 
 reached Albanyf on the morning of the 7th. The 
 entire distance is one hundred and sixty miles, which 
 
 * The invention of the steam boat is an event which will 
 long render the year 1807 conspicuous in the annals of median-; al 
 invention. It was during this year, after a long period spent in 
 experiments on the application of the steam engine in propelling 
 boats, that success crowned the efforts of Robert Fulton in the con- 
 struction of the first steam boat called the North River, which 
 performed a trip from New York to Albany, carrying a number of 
 passengers to witness the nautical phenomenon of a vessel going 
 at the rate of seven miles against wind and tide. 
 
 See Colden's Life of Fulton. 
 
 f By the census of 1820, Albany has a population of 12,542* 
 being 1779 more than it had in 1810.
 
 20 
 
 we accomplished in forty hours actual travelling, in- 
 cluding detention at post-offices and taverns, giving 
 an average of four miles per hour. This is about 
 the rate of travelling in the Trekschuits of Holland,* 
 and upon the frozen grounds in Russia.f 
 
 On our arrival at Greenbush, we found the ice in 
 the Hudson too unstable to admit of crossing upon 
 it, and were passed over in a boat propelled along a 
 path cut through the ice.J There was some snow 
 in the streets of Albany, and a cold wind from the 
 north presaged a check to the advance of spring, 
 which had a few days before, given such flattering 
 proofs of an early development. On the succeed- 
 ing day (the 8th) there arose a hail storm from the 
 northwest, which continued, attended with rain and 
 sleet, during the whole day and succeeding night, 
 and on the morning of the 9th, the hail lay eight 
 inches deep in the streets of the city, and upon the 
 surrounding plains ; and presented the novel spec- 
 
 * See Hall's Modem Paris, in the Literary and Philosophical 
 Repertory. 
 
 i Clarke's Travels in Russia. 
 
 | To travellers, and others, who wish to study the topography 
 of this route, the map of the Hudson between Sandy Hook and San- 
 dy Hill, with the post road between New-York and Albany, recently 
 published by A. T. Goodrich & Co. will prove a valuable docu- 
 ment. In regard to the general geography and statistirs of the 
 country. Spafford's Gazetteer of New- York may be advantageously 
 cos suited. The history of the discovery of this river by Henry 
 Hudson, in 1609, will be found in the 2d Vol. of the Collections of 
 ike New-York Historical Society. Its geological character is detail- 
 ed in Ackerly , & Essay on the Geology of the Hudson river, a work 
 which is accompanied by an excellent geological map ; and in 
 Eaton's Index to the Geology of the Northern States, 2d editiojt.
 
 21 
 
 tacle of good sleighing produced by a fall of hail. — 
 The storm had abated, but not ceased, in the even- 
 ing, when I proceeded in the stage to Schenectady. 
 The route lies by a well constructed turnpike of six- 
 teen miles, across the Pine Plains, a district of san- 
 dy alluvion, bounded by the gravelly soil of Guilder- 
 land and Duanesburgh on the southwest, and by the 
 river alluvions of Niskayuna and Watervliet, on the 
 northeast, and covering an area of about seventy 
 square miles. Thistractisincludedinatriangleformed 
 by the junction of the Mohawk with the Hudson, and 
 of which the Helleberg, a lofty chain of highlands, 
 visible from the plains at the distance of twenty miles, 
 forms the southwestern boundary. Situated near the 
 centre of a state, computed at 40,000 square miles, 
 and containing a population of i, 200,000 souls,* this 
 tract presents the topographical novelty of an unre- 
 claimed desert, in the hea rt of one of the oldest coun- 
 ties in the state, and in the midst of a people char- 
 acterized for enterprise and public spirit. Several 
 attempts have lately been made to bring this tract 
 into cultivation, and from the success which has at- 
 tended the introduction of gypsum, and other im- 
 proved modes of agriculture, it is probable the whole 
 will, at some future period, be devoted to the cultiva- 
 tion of the various species of grasses, fruit trees, and 
 esculent roots ; three branches of agriculture to 
 w hich its sandy soil seems admirably adapted. It is 
 certainly an object worthy the attention of those so- 
 cieties whose efforts to improve the systems of crop- 
 ping, to facilitate the progress of farming by the intro- 
 
 * This is an estimate warranted by partial returns of the census 
 now taking. The population of New York in 1810, was 959,220. 
 Spaford's Gazetteer,
 
 22 
 
 duction of labour-saving implements and machines^ 
 and to emulate agricultural industry by the annual 
 distribution of premiums, are already manifest in the 
 improved state of farms, orchards, and breeds of do- 
 mestic animals. After travelling fifteen miles through 
 the Pine Plains, which present a succession of the 
 most uninteresting views, the eye is relieved on emer- 
 ging, somewhat abruptly, from the forest of pines, on 
 entering the city of Schenectady, — a town which is 
 characterized as the site of an Indian massacre in 
 1690, — the seat of the foundation of a College in 
 1794,* the residence of a population of 5,909 inhab- 
 itants in 1810, and the victim of one of the most ter- 
 rible conflagrations in the fall of 1 8 1 9.f As we enter- 
 ed the town, the snow, which had imperceptibly suc- 
 ceeded to the hail and sleet of the morning, entirely 
 ceased, and was followed by a night of severe cold. 
 The preceding day (the ]0th,) I took the stage 
 which left Albany at four in the morning, and reach- 
 ed Utica at seven in the evening, being a distance of 
 ninety-six miles in seventeen hours. The road lies 
 up the valley of the Mohawk, and the towns succes- 
 sively passed, are New Amsterdam, Caughnawaga, 
 Palatine, Little Falls, and Herkimer. There is little 
 
 *See Smith's History of New- York, p. 113. 
 
 ■r "On the m6rning of the 17th inst. (Nov. 18 19) at 4 o'clock, a most 
 awful conflagration commenced its ravages in the city of Schenec- 
 tady, and continued with unremitted violence, until about 11 
 o'clock in the forenoon. It broke out in a Currier's shop in Water- 
 street, near the store of John Moyston, and destroyed about 100 
 stores and dwelling houses in State, Church, Union, Washington, 
 and Front Streets. It was by the most extraordinary exertions 
 only, that the bridge over the Mohawk was saved, having been on 
 fire at every pier.'' — Plough Boy, Vol. I. p. 199-
 
 23 
 
 either in the taste of buildings, condition of inhabi- 
 tants, or state of improvements, to elicit description. 
 A valley celebrated for the fertility of its soil, now 
 covered with snow and chilled with a driving wind 
 from the north, presented a scene of polar inclemen- 
 cy, and could not be distinguished from plains of ir- 
 reclaimable sterility. The season was equally unfa- 
 vourable for observing the physical productions and 
 constitution of the country, or the labour that has 
 been bestowed in rendering them subservient to the 
 wants and the convenience of life. But the sites of 
 towns, the banks of rivers, plains, or mountains, which 
 have once witnessed the effects of human industry, 
 whether in war or in peace, while they experience 
 the most striking physical revolutions, preserve a 
 moral character, which no change can obliterate ; 
 and we cannot pass through the country formerly 
 possessed by the Mohawks, without recurring to the 
 savage cruelties and murders, the battles, and the am- 
 buscades, of which it was so long the conspicuous 
 theatre. This powerful and warlike tribe was one of 
 the principal members of the Iroquois confederacy, 
 so long the terror and the glory of the North Ameri- 
 can Indians. The other members of it, were the Onei- 
 das, the Onondagas, the Cayugas, the Senecas, and 
 the Tuscaroras.* They inhabited the country, when 
 first visited by Europeans, from the Highlands of the 
 Hudson to the banks of the Niagara, and they had 
 either pushed their conquests, or carried the terror 
 
 * The Tuscaroras did not originally belong to the confederacy, 
 but inhabited the back parts of North Carolina, where having form- 
 ed a conspiracy to destroy all the whites, they were defeated 
 and driven away in 1712, and were subsequently received an3 
 adopted by the Iroquois.— Smith's History of New-York.
 
 2-1 
 
 of their arms, from the island of Montreal to the banks 
 of the Mississippi. The league was formed before 
 their acquaintance with Europeans, and it is the 
 only instance to be found in the history of the aborigi- 
 nes, of a permanent union for the general welfare 
 and defence. There are two other instances of a 
 temporary confederation of tribes, instituted through 
 the energy of two chiefs, of similar character, at dis- 
 tant periods, — that of Pontiac, against the English, 
 and that of Tecumseh, against the Americans. But 
 these, although powerful, were temporary confedera- 
 cies, and dissolved with the fall of the respective 
 chiefs with whom they had originated. The Iro- 
 quois, on the contrary, had not united for any speci- 
 fic, but for general purposes ; their compact was of 
 immemorial standing, and is never known to have 
 been broken, in a single instance. United by the 
 tics of blood, speaking dialects of one language, in- 
 habiting the same country and climate, and acting in 
 one cause, they had acquired a national pride, and a 
 national character ; and when we reflect upon the 
 advances they had made in the art of government, and 
 the sound maxims of policy by which they were uni- 
 formly actuated, we cannot suppress the wish that the 
 period of the discovery of the new world had been 
 deferred a century longer, that we might have view- 
 ed theNorthernlndian in a state of civilization, which 
 it is not now probable we shall ever behold.* T he ef- 
 
 * For an account of the numbers, government, exploits, and cus- 
 toms of the Iroquois, see Gov. Clinton's Discourse before the New- 
 York Historical Society. 2d vol. of tf.eir Collections. Colden's His- 
 tory of the Five Nations. La Hmitaii's Voyages to Canada. — 
 Journal of a voyage to North America, by Charlevoix. Smith's His* 
 tory of New-York.
 
 20 
 
 feet we cannot doubt, would have been auspicious to 
 the cause of the Indians, and gratifying to the friends of 
 philanthropy.* Of this confederacy, which furnishes 
 the strongest evidence of the intellectual vigour of the 
 aborigines, and which has been entirely forgotten, 
 as a confederacy, among the local names of the 
 country which they once occupied, and still, in limi- 
 ted tracts, possess ; the Mohawks were the most 
 bloody, the most artful, the bravest, and the most 
 powerful. They occupied the very extensive dis- 
 trict of alluvial lands from Scaghticoke on the Hoo- 
 sick river, to the banks of the Oriskany, in Oneida, 
 and had such weight in the confederacy that it was 
 sometimes even denominated by their name.f 
 
 From the time of my departure from New-York, the 
 weather had gradually assumed a character of such 
 severity, as to forbid the expectation of a speedy 
 opening of the northern lakes, and left me at liberty 
 to proceed with more leisure ; a circumstance of 
 which I availed myself by spending several days at 
 Utica, and the villages adjacent. Standing at the 
 head of the Mohawk, and at the intersection of the 
 most important roads from the north and the west 
 part of the state, Utica unites extraordinary advan- 
 tages, as a point for the sale and exchange of the 
 products of agriculture and domestic manufactures. 
 It is the emporium of one of the most extensive and 
 fertile districts of farming lands in the state, and the 
 advantages of geographical position, will be still fur- 
 ther augmented by the Erie canal, which is to pass 
 
 * Smith's History of New- York, p 73. 
 
 t Governor Clinton's Discourse before the New- York Historical 
 Society, 2d vol. of their Collections, p. 49. 
 
 4
 
 20 
 
 through the centre of the town.* This village 
 lies in north latitude 43° 0' and occupies the ancient 
 site of Fort Schuyler ; a name that recalls the mem- 
 ory of a soldier and a patriot of the revolution/}" It 
 was first incorporated in 1798, under the name of the 
 village of Fort Schuyler. In 1 805, this act was repeal- 
 ed, and a new one passed conferring additional privi- 
 leges, and its Asiatic name. In 1810, it contained a 
 population of 1700 inhabitants, and consisted of ^00 
 dwelling houses and stores, exclusive of churches and 
 other public buildings. Its subsequent increase has 
 been very rapid ; and the style of architecture and 
 general appearance of the town, indicate the taste 
 and the public spirit which prevails. Fifteen miles 
 
 * Since that period, the canal has been finished from Utica to 
 Seneca river, a distance of ninety-six miles, and the perma- 
 nency of the works, the number of boats loaded with the pro- 
 duce of the country, which have cons'antly covered it, and other 
 circumstances have been such as to realize the most sanguine ex- 
 pectations of the friends and projectors of that great work. 
 
 f My New- York readers will undoubtedly excuse me for present- 
 ing the following just and feeling tribute to the talents and patriot- 
 ism of the late Gen. Schuyler, from the pen of a contemporary 
 soldier and patriot, Col. Troup, of Geneva. 
 
 " I should outrage every feeling of my nature, were I to lay down 
 my pen without paying, in the warmest language of the heart, the 
 homage of my unfeigned gratitude to the memory of General 
 Schuyler, for the patriotism which led him to devote to the Lake 
 Canal Policy, that ardent zeal, and those extraordinary talents 
 which marked his glorious career in our revolutionary contest j a 
 career that justly entitles him to be ranked in the number of the 
 illustrious founders of our republic. And, 1 hope to be pardoned 
 for subjoining, that whenever imagination places this very distin- 
 guished man before me, I soon become confounded with shame 
 for the extreme neglect — I will not call it ingratitude, with which 
 the state has treated his venerable name." 
 
 Vindication of the Lake Canal Policy.
 
 27 
 
 northwest of Utica, lies the site of Fort Stanwix, 
 (now occupied by the village of Rome) the scene 
 of one of the struggles of our revolutionary contest. 
 This fort was first built about the year 1758, by the 
 British, but falling into decay, was repaired and en- 
 larged in 1776, and in the following year sustained, 
 under thecommand of the late Major General Ganse- 
 voort, a siege of twenty-two days, from a combined 
 force of British and Indiana, under the command of 
 Col. St. Ledger. It was in marching to the relief of 
 this post, that the unfortunate Gen. Herkimer, falling 
 into an Indian ambuscade on the banks of the Oris- 
 kany, lost his life, and the greatest part of his army. 
 With the retreat of St. Ledger, (who, after a sortie 
 from the garrison, led by Col. Marinus Willett, in 
 which four stands of colours were captured,* was 
 compelled to raise the siege) departed, the Mohawk 
 Indians, then in alliance with the British, and they 
 have never since appeared, as a nation, within our 
 precincts. 
 
 On the 10th of April, I took the stage which left 
 Utica at two in the morning, and passing through 
 Vernon, Manilas, and Onondaga, lodged at Skene- 
 atelas, a neat and airy village on the banks of one of 
 those beautiful and transparent little lakes which cast 
 such a charm over the scenery of western New-York. 
 
 * I do not find this sally of the besieged garrison recorded in 
 any history, and it is here mentioned on the authority of a p. rson 
 (Col Lawrence Schoolcraft, the father of the writer) who way pre- 
 sent upon that occasion. This action is also characterized as afford- 
 ing one of the proofs of which the events of that war afforded ma- 
 ny, rjf the triumph of militia, and raw recruits, acting under a strong 
 sense of political oppression, and an enthusiastic love of liberty, 
 over well disciplined and veteran troops, who were that day driven 
 at the point of the bayonet.
 
 28 
 
 On the eleventh, we passed Auburn* at an ear- 
 ly hour, and crossing Cayuga lake by a wooden 
 bridge of a mile in length, reached Geneva at one 
 o'clock in the afternoon. The entire distance is nine- 
 ty-six miles. The route lies across the important 
 agricultural counties of Oneida, Sullivan, Onondaga, 
 Cayuga, Seneca, and a part of Ontario, a part of the 
 extensive country formerly occupied by the Iroquois, 
 whose great council fire was fixed at Onondaga,f 
 where a part of that tribe still remain. It is the 
 scene of the operations of Gen. Sullivan's army in the 
 summer of 1779, when the Iroquois tribes paid the 
 price of their constancy to the British, in the de- 
 struction of their villages, the slaughter and expulsion 
 of a great part of their population, and the total an- 
 nihilation of their power as a confederacy and a peo- 
 ple. There is no account of a general council held by 
 them after the operations of this year, and the seat of 
 their council fire, which is always sacred and im- 
 
 * The increase of this village, within the last ten years, Is 
 surprising, and may be cited from an hundred other instances, to 
 convey an idea of the growth, population, and improvements of the 
 western parts of New- York. In 1810, Spafford states it to consist 
 of 100 houses and stores, mostly built within the last 6 years. The 
 census of 1820 gives the following result — Auburn paper. 
 
 Private Buildings. Tulilic Ruiliiinps. M.inufaetnre«. Inhabitants. 
 
 '>' tJi M I ■- I > :> — — -> — n^s* ^ 
 
 . >«ioip.b» roaJJiyS-JasS na o*!ot?;:; 
 
 • ft n J5 s ><t— ;r"LO.^ £ *! =: - r. - H% 
 
 <m CT? Z-- S t*wac ii 2 ^\ M — — " J^i^ 
 
 on 
 
 
 c £■ r. 2 
 
 S eug. s 3. 
 
 <• O C - 3 
 
 v Smith's History of New-York, p. 68.
 
 29 
 
 moveable among Indian tribes, had fallen into the 
 hands of their enemies. After this defeat, a great 
 proportion of the tribes fled to Canada, and of two 
 ertire tribes, the Cayugas and the Mohawks, there is 
 not an individual left. What remains of the tribes 
 which were not then expelled, or have since expatri- 
 ated themselves, is to be seen in the villages of the 
 Oneidas and Onondagas, and such of the Senecas and 
 Tuscaroras, as are located near Buffalo.* A county 
 that was then the theatre of a frontier war, and the 
 inheritance of a powerful nation of semi-barbarians, 
 is now smiling under the hand of agriculture, and 
 checquered with towns, and villages, roads and ca- 
 nals, the seats of learning, and the temples of religion. 
 Perhaps no country presents so remarkable an in- 
 stance of the progress of human settlements.achieved 
 in so short a period of time.f A lapse of forty years 
 
 *The Stockbrid^e Indians settled on the Oneida reservation, are 
 not of the race of the Iroquois. They migrated from the banks of 
 the Hudson in 1734 to Sto< kbridge, in Massachusetts, and from 
 thence about the year 1785 removed to the spot they now occupy. 
 The Brolhertovvn Indians are descendants of the Muhhek now 
 who formerly inhabited the country about Narrasjanset, in Rhode- 
 Island.— Clinton's Discourse before the Historical Society of New* 
 York, p. 43 ; 2d vol. Collections of that Society. 
 
 t Increase of Population. — In the year 1790, the then county of 
 Ontario, according to the census then taken, contained but 205 
 families, and 108 ' inhabitants. " In the same territory, (says the 
 Canandaigua Repository,) in the year J 800 (except the county of 
 Steuben, which was set off in 1796) the population was 12,584. 
 The county of Genesee was erected in 1806, and the counties of 
 Niagara, Chautauque, and Cataragus, 1808 ; leaving for the county 
 of Ontario, its present territory. In 1810, this county contained 
 42)032 ; in IS 14, it contained 57,630 ; and the census now taking 
 is expected to show about 90,000. Genesee and Niagara have in?
 
 30 
 
 ha 4 ? already rendered it difficult to distinguish be- 
 tvvefii those tumuli, ancient ibrtincatious, and other 
 antiquities which owe their origin to an anterior race 
 of inhabitants, and those marks of occupation left by 
 the Iroquois, or attributable to the French. 
 
 On passing through Oneida county on the M>th of 
 April, there was still some snow to be seen in situa- 
 tions shaded by the buildings or fences, but it had 
 entirely disappeared in the roads, and in the open 
 fields. The roads continued muddy to Onondaga 
 East Hill ; on the West Hill, they were dry, and so 
 continued with partial exceptions, to Geneva, where 
 the clouds of dust by which we were enveloped, and 
 the appearances of vegetation, indicated the benign 
 climate which pervades the luxuriant country of the 
 Genesee. Every appearance indicated a season ten 
 days more advanced than the valley of the Mohawk, 
 which is only separated by the distance of a hundred 
 miles. The wild poplar put forth leaves on the 
 18th, the house popular (populus dilataid) on the 23d, 
 apricots were in blossom on the 22d. The ther- 
 mometer observed at one o'clock, P. M. varied, be- 
 tween the 1 lth and 28th, from 60°, to 78°, of Fahren- 
 heit, during which period the weather was clear, 
 mild, and pleasant, with the exception of a fall of rain 
 on the 26th and 27th. The village of Geneva, occu- 
 pying a beautiful eminence at the head of Seneca 
 Lake, and surrounded by a district of country, under 
 
 creased nearly in the same proportion. The census in the several 
 counties, for 1820, is not yet completed ; but the total population 
 in the territory, which, only thirty years since, contained but ten 
 hundred and eighty one souls, doubtless exceeds two hundred 
 tiioisand ! ! — We doubt whether a parallel can be found] in the 
 rise and progress of any country in any age." — JY. Y. Statesman.
 
 31 
 
 a high state of cultivation and improvement, pre- 
 sents a most picturesque appearance, on approach- 
 ing it in a clear day from the east; and the display of 
 the town, so highly favoured by local advantages, at 
 the distance of a mile, creates an idea of wealth, 
 taste, and business, which is not disappointed on be- 
 holding it the centre of a populous agricultural dis- 
 trict, the mart of its produce and the theatre of its 
 exchange, where the intersection of several import- 
 ant roads, and a branch of the Erie Canal, facilitate 
 a ready intercourse with all parts of the state. A 
 person of information who has had opportunities of 
 occular comparison, is disposed to consider the na- 
 tural advantages of this village and vicinity, as a 
 place susceptible of rural embellishments, superior 
 to that of the celebrated city of Switzerland, in allu- 
 sion to which it has been named. 
 
 On the 28th of April. 1 left Geneva, and passing 
 through Canandaigua, Bloomfield, and Lima, lodged 
 at Avon, upon the banks of Genesee river. On the 
 following day we passed through Caledonia, Le Roy, 
 Batavia, Pembroke, and Clarence, and arrived at 
 Buffalo in the evening, a distance of 210 miles from 
 Utica. This route lies across the populous coun- 
 ties of Ontario, Genesee, and Niagara, colloquially 
 known under the name of the Genesee country, and 
 proverbial for the fertility of its soil.* We found 
 
 * At the annual fair and cattle show in Ontario county, in the 
 fall of 1 819) premiums were awarded on the following articles, viz : 
 
 Best winter wheat, 80 hushels 12 qts. on the acre. 
 
 Barley, 34 bushels on the acre. 
 
 Peas, 32 bushels 4 qts. on the acre. — Canandaigua Paper. 
 
 In Onondaga county at the agricultural fair of the same season, 
 premiums were awarded on,
 
 32 
 
 the peach, and the earlier varieties of apple tree, 
 eiery where in blossom, and the beech (fagusferru- 
 ginea,) the wild poplar, or the American Aspen, and 
 some other species of the early sprouting forest trees, 
 already gave the forest a vernal aspect. These ap- 
 pearances continued until within eight or ten miles 
 of Buffalo, where the influence of the lake winds, 
 and the bodies of unmelted ice in the lakes, have a 
 sensible effect upon the progress of vegetation, 
 which appears to be retarded eight or ten days later 
 on account of this exposure. The peach tree had 
 there budded, but not yet blown. We found the 
 lake still covered with floating ice, and no vessel had 
 
 The best Winter Wheat, 37 bushels 14lbs. to the acre. 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 12 qts. do. 
 
 Onondaga paper. 
 In Oneida County, at the annual fair and cattle show, of the 
 same season, the following; articles received premiums : 
 
 Winter Wheat, Reuben Gridley, of Paris, two acres 72 bushels 
 per acre. 
 
 Spring Wh f at, Jona. Wilcox, Paris, 44 bushels per a<*re. 
 Indian Corn. Samuel Cary, DeerfiVld. 1 19 bushels per acre. 
 Barley, R. Soutluvcrth, Paris, 56 bushels 28 quarts per acre. 
 Oats, J^d. Sanger, Whitestown. 84^ per. acre. 
 Feas, D. Barton, Paris, 52 bushels, per acre. 
 Potato's, A. Bartlett, Paris, 5( 5 bu-hels per acre. 
 Butter, D. Barton, Paris, had already made 3107 pounds from 
 21 cows. — Plough Boy and Journal of the Board of Agriculture by 
 S. Southivick, Vol. 1. 
 
 But the greatest product of Indian corn raised during this sea- 
 son, and perhaps the greatest ever known, was by Mr. Jedediah 
 Pusenbury, of Portland, Chautauque county, which was 132 bush- 
 els 12 quarts from an acre. — Plough Boy, Vol. 1. p. 199 
 
 Spring 
 
 23 
 
 33 
 
 Barley 
 
 41 
 
 17 
 
 Flax, 
 
 350 lbs. 
 
 
 Oats, 
 
 54 
 
 11 
 
 Corn, 
 
 121 
 
 12
 
 33 
 
 attempted the navigation. The steam boat had ad- 
 vertised to start on her first trip, on the first of May, 
 but the backward state of the weather, and the ice 
 in the lake, had induced the captain to defer it until 
 the 6th, leaving me a week to visit the Falls of Ni- 
 agara, and the battle grounds on the north banks of 
 the Niagara. 
 
 The town of Buffalo contained a hundred houses, 
 besides the county buildings, in 1810.* On the 30th 
 of December, 1813, it was burnt by a party of Bri- 
 tish troops and Indians, who laid waste this frontier. 
 It has since been rebuilt with increased elegance, 
 and is now a town of about 200 gildings, a pro- 
 portion of which are of brick. It occupies an em- 
 inence, which was recommended to the French go- 
 vernment, as a commanding site for a garrison, by 
 the Baron La Hontan, in 1693, and marked Fort 
 Suppose, upon his map.f The first vessel which navi- 
 gated Lake Erie, was built in this vicinity by La Sal- 
 le, in 1679, being a vessel of sixty tons burden.f 
 A part of the tribe of the Seneca Indians, about 
 700 souls, are located in this vicinity. The village 
 of Black Rock, the residence of Gen. Peter B. Porter, 
 is situated two miles below, at a spot which is sup- 
 posed to unite superior advantages, as a place of 
 trade, and a harbour for vessels. 
 
 On the first of May, I visited the celebrated Falls 
 of Niagara,^ situated 22 miles below. Keeping the 
 
 * Spafford. 
 
 t La Hontan's New Voyages to Canada, p. 187, vol. 1, 
 
 | Smith's History of New-York, p. 80. 
 
 § This is an Iroquois word said to signify the thunder of waters, 
 and the word as still pronounced by the Senecas is O-niraa-gardh, 
 
 5
 
 34 
 
 American shore, the road lies over an alluvial coun- 
 try, elevated from ten to twenty feet above the water 
 of the river, without a hill, or a ledge of rocks, and 
 with scarce an undulation of surface, to indicate the 
 existence, or prepare the eye for the stupenduous 
 prospect which bursts, somewhat unexpectedly, into 
 view. The day was clear and warm, with a light 
 breeze blowing down the river. We stopped fre- 
 quently on our approach to listen for the sound of 
 the Fall, but at the distances of fifteen, ten, eight, and 
 even five miles, could not distinguish any, even by 
 laying the ear to the ground. It was not until 
 within three miles of the precipice, where the road 
 tuns close to the edge of the river, and brings the ra- 
 pids in full view, that we could distinctly hear the 
 sound, which then, owing to a change of the wind, 
 fell so heavy upon the ear, that in proceeding a short 
 distance, it was difficult to maintain a conversation, as 
 we rode along. On reaching the Falls, nothing struck 
 me with more surprise, than I hat the Baron La Hon- 
 tan, who visited it in August, 1638, should have fal- 
 len into so egregious a mistake, as to the height of 
 the perpendicular pilch, which he represents at seven 
 or ei^ht hundred feet* Nor does the narrator of the 
 discoveries of the unfortunate La Salle, Monsieur 
 Tout i, approach much nearer to the truth, when he 
 states it at six hundred fcet.t Charlevoix, whose work 
 
 Veingtsfrongl accentuated on the third syllable, while the interjec- 
 tion O, is ho feebly uttered, that without a nice attention, it may 
 escape notice. 
 
 * La Honian's Voyages, vol. I. p. 82. 
 
 t An Account of the last Expedition and Discoveries of Mon- 
 sieur 1)^ La Salle.— -Collections of the Mw-Yorlc Historical Society . 
 Vol. II. p. 228.
 
 35 
 
 is characterized by more accuracy, learning, and re- 
 search, than those who had preceded him, and who 
 saw the Falls in 1721, makes, on the contrary, an es- 
 timate which is surprising for the degree of accuracy 
 he has attained. " For my own part," he says, " af- 
 ter examining it on all sides, where it could be view- 
 ed to the greatest advantage, I am inclined to think 
 we cannot allow it less than a hundred and forty 
 or fifty feet."* The latter, (one hundred and fifty) is 
 precisely what the Fall on the Canadian side, is now 
 estimated at. There is a rapid of two miles in ex- 
 tent above, and another of seven miles, extending to 
 Lewiston, below the Falls. The breadth across, at 
 the brink of the Fall, which is serrated and irregular, 
 is estimated at four thousand two hundred and thirty 
 feet, or a little more than three-fourths of a mile. 
 The Fall on the American shore is one hunderd and 
 sixty-four feet, being the highest known perpendi- 
 cular pitch of so great a volume of water.f The fall 
 of the rapid above, commencing at Chippewa, is 
 estimated at ninety feet, and the entire fall of Niaga- 
 ra river from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, a distance 
 of thirty-five miles, at three hundred feet. Goat 
 Island, which divides the water into two unequal 
 sheets, has recently been called /m,(in allusion to the 
 perpetual rain bows by which it is characterized) by 
 
 * Charlevoix's Journal of a Voyage to North America, vol. I. 
 p. 353. 
 
 t Tt is in the volume of falling water only, that Niagara claims 
 a pre-eminence. There are many higher falls in various parts 
 of South America and Europe. The greatest water fall in Eurupe,' 
 is on the river Lattin, in Lapland, which is half a mile wide, and 
 has a perpendicular pitch of 400 feet,
 
 36 
 
 the commissioners for settling the boundaries of the 
 United States, acting under the treaty of Ghent. In 
 approaching this cataract from Lewiston, the elevat- 
 ed and rocky description of country it is necessary 
 to cross, together with the increased distance at 
 which the roar is heard in that direction, must serve 
 to prepare the mind for encountering a scene which 
 there is nothing to indicate on approaching from Buf- 
 falo ; and this impression unquestionably continues 
 to exercise an effect upon the beholder, after his ar- 
 rival at the falls. The first European visitors be- 
 held it und«r this influence. Following the path of 
 the Couriers de Bois, they proceeded from Montreal 
 up the St Lawrence, to Fort Caderacqui, and around 
 the shores of Lake Ontario, to the alluvial tract which 
 stretches from the mouth of Niagara river, to the 
 site of Lewiston. Here the Ridge, emphatically so cal- 
 led, commences, and the number of elevations which 
 it is necessary to ascend in crossing it, may, without 
 a proper consideration of the intermediate descents, 
 have led those who formerly approached that way 
 into error, such as La Hontan, and Tonti fell into. 
 They must have been deprived also of the advanta- 
 ges of the view from the gulph at the foot of the Falls, 
 for we are not prepared to admit the possibility of a 
 descent without artificial stairs, or other analogous 
 labourious and dangerous works, such, as at that re- 
 mote period, must have been looked upon as a stu- 
 pendous undertaking ; and could not, indeed, have 
 been accomplished, surroundc d as the French then 
 were, by their enemies, the jealous and ever watchful 
 Iroquois. The descent at the present period, with 
 every advantage arising trom the labours of mechan- 
 ical ingenuity, cannot be performed without feeling
 
 37 , 
 
 some degree of personal solicitude. It is in this 
 chasm that the sound of the water, falls heaviest upon 
 the ear, and that the mind becomes fully impressed, 
 with the appalling majesty of the Fall. Other views 
 from the banks on both sides of the river, and from 
 the Island of Iris, in its centre, are more beautiful and 
 picturesque; but it is here that the tremulous motion 
 of the earth, the clouds of irridescent spray, the 
 broken column of falling water, the stunning sound, 
 the lofty banks of the river, and the wide spread- 
 ing ruin of rocks, imprint a character of wonder 
 and terror upon the scene, which no other point 
 of view is capable of producing. The spectator, 
 who, on alighting at Niagara, walks hastily to the 
 brink, feels his attention imperceptibly rivited to 
 the novel and striking phenomenon before him. and. 
 at this moment, is apt either to over-rate or to under- 
 ratethe magnitude of the Fall. It is not easy to erect 
 a standard of comparison ; and the view requires to 
 be studied in order to attain a just conception and ap- 
 preciation of its grandeur and its beauties. The ear 
 is at first stunned by the incessant roar, and the eye 
 bewildered in the general view. In proportion as these 
 become familiarized, we seize upon the individual fea- 
 tures of the landscape, and are enabled to distinguish 
 between the gay and the sombre, the bold and the 
 picturesque, the harsh and the mellow traits, which, 
 like the deep contrasted shades of some high wrought 
 picture, contribute to give effect to the scene. It 
 was some time before I could satisfy myself of the ac- 
 curacy of the accredited measurements of the height 
 of the Fall, and not until after I had made repeated 
 visits, and spent a considerable time in the abyss 
 below. There appears a great disproportion be-
 
 38 
 
 tween the height and the width of the falling sheet, 
 but the longer 1 remained, the more magnificent it 
 appeared to me ; and hence it is, that with some- 
 thing like a feeling of disappointment, on mv first 
 arrival, I left the Falls, after a visit of two days, with 
 an impression of the scene, which every thing I had 
 previously read, had failed to create. At the time of 
 my visit, the wind drove the floating ice out of Lake 
 Erie, with the drift wood of its tributary rivers, and 
 these were constantly precipitated over the Falls, but 
 we were not able to discover any vestiges of them 
 in the eddies below. Immediately in front of the 
 sheet of falling water, on the American side, there 
 was also an enormous bank of snow, of nearly an 
 hundred feet in height, which the power of the sun 
 had not yet been fierce enough to dissolve, and 
 which, by giving an Icelandic character to the land- 
 scape, produced a fine effect. It appeared to me to 
 owe its accumulation, to the falling particles of froz- 
 en spray. 
 
 What has been said by Goldsmith, and repeated 
 by others, respecting the destructive influence of the 
 rapids above, to ducks and other water fowl, is only 
 an effect of the imagination. So far from being the 
 case, the wild duck, is often seen to swim down the 
 rapid to the brink of the Falls, and then fly out, and 
 repeat the descent, seeming to take a delight, in the 
 exercise. Neither are small land-birds affected on 
 flying over the Falls, in the manner that has been sta- 
 ted. I observed the blue bird and the wren, which 
 had already made their annual visit to the banks of 
 the Niagara, frequently fly within one or two feet of 
 the brink, apparently delighted with the gift of their 
 wings, which enabled them to sport over such fright-
 
 39 
 
 ful precipices, without danger. We are, certainly, 
 not well pleased to find, that some of the wonderful 
 stories, we have read of the Falls, during boyhood, 
 do not turnout to be the truth; but, at the same 
 time, a little attention is only necessary to discover, 
 that many interesting facts and particulars, remain 
 unnoticed, which fully compensate for others, that 
 have been overstrained or misstated. Among these, 
 the crystalline appearances, disclosed among the 
 prostrate ruins, and the geological character of the 
 Fall itseli. are not the least interesting. 
 
 The scenes where nature has experienced her 
 greatest convulsions, are always the most favourable 
 for acquiring a knowledge of the internal structure 
 of the earth. The peaks of the highest mountains, 
 and the depths of the lowest ravines, present the 
 greatest attractions to the geologist. Hence this 
 cataract, which has worn its way for a number of 
 miles, and to a very great depth, through the stony 
 crust of the earth, is no less interesting for the geo- 
 logical facts it discloses, than for the magnificence 
 of its natural scenery. The chain of highlands, 
 called the Ridge, originates in Upper-Canada, and 
 running parallel with the south shore of Lake Onta- 
 rio, forms a natural terrace, which pervades the wes- 
 tern counties of New-York, from north to south, af- 
 fording, by its unbroken chain, and the horizontal 
 position ot its strata, the advantages of a natural 
 road, and terminates in an unexplored part of the 
 county of Oswego, or thereabout. It is in crossing 
 this ridge, that the Falls of the Niagara, of the Gene- 
 Bee, and of the Oswego rivers, all running into Lake 
 Ontario, are produced ; together with those of an 
 infinite number of smaller streams and brooks. —
 
 40 
 
 Through this, the Niagara has cut its way tor a dis- 
 tance of seven miles, and to a depth of more than 
 two hundred feet, disclosing the number, order of 
 stratification, and mineral character, of the different 
 strata of secondary rocks, of which it is composed. 
 These are, beginning at the lowest visible point, red 
 sand stone, fragile slate, and fetid limestone, the lat- 
 ter occupying the surface, and imbedding crystals 
 of calcareous spar,* and foliated gypsum.f How 
 far these formations, in the order in which they are 
 here seen, continue towards the south, and extend la- 
 terally towards the east and the west, the want of 
 more extensive observations, prevents us from deter- 
 mining. A similar formation exists at Genesee Falls, 
 and the sand stone stratum, continues unbroken to 
 Oswego, where it is quarried for the purposes of 
 building.^ It is probable, that the slate rock, vari- 
 ously modified, and combined, extends throughout 
 the Genesee country, as it is found on the banks of 
 the Seneca Lake, — the Cashong, Flint, and Allen's 
 Creeks, — in the towns of Le Roy, and Clarence in 
 digging wells, — on the banks of Lake Erie, at Ham- 
 
 * Kalk spath. Werner. Common spar. Kirwan. Calc spar. 
 Jamison. Chaux carbonatee pure spathique. Brongnairt. 
 
 Chaveland. 
 
 f Selenite. Cleaveland. Fraueneis. Werner. 
 
 | The sand stone of Oswego, has been employed with some 
 success, for the hearths, and lining of glass and iron founderies 
 where the intense degree of heat employed, renders the discovery 
 of the most refractory rocks, an object of constant solicitude. In- 
 telligent manufacturers will see the important application of geo- 
 logical science, in tracing the formations of rocks, upon which 
 they are any wise dependant, into the vicinity of their manufacto- 
 ries.
 
 41 
 
 burgh, — on Mud Creek, near Canandaigua — on the 
 outlet of Honey oye, and Caneseus Lakes, and on the 
 Conostaga fork of the Genesee.* At the three lat- 
 ter places, it is so highly charged with bitumen, as to 
 be capable of supporting combustion. The inflam- 
 mable gas of the burning springs of Ontario, and the 
 fountain of petroleum of Cattaraugus county, afford 
 additional evidence of the existence of carbon and 
 bitumen in the shistose rocks of the Genesee, and 
 render it probable, that mineral coal, the dis- 
 covery of which, has become so great a desidera- 
 tum, will reward the future researches of the geolo- 
 gist, and the miner in this region. The secondary 
 character of the Genesee slate, is particularly appa- 
 rent upon the banks of the Cashong creek, in Onta- 
 rio county, where it imbeds various species of comJio- 
 lites and erismatolites, together with globular masses 
 of granular limestone. Along the southern borders 
 of Seneca lake, it contains numerous impressions 
 of univalve shells, and mollusca. 
 
 The surface rock of this region, (limestone) which 
 is fetid at Niagara, either does not preserve a uni- 
 form character, or is succeeded by local formations 
 of calcareous carbonats, of various character and 
 extent. Thus, it is compact shelly (forming a shell 
 marble,) at Wolcott, in Seneca county, and at Bath, 
 in Steuben county; while the greater part of Onta- 
 rio, Allegany, Chautauque, and Genesee, is charac- 
 
 * For several of these localities, I am indebted to the observa- 
 tions of Mr. C. K Guernsey, of Lima, a gentleman whose habits 
 of observation, during occasional excursions through (hat county, 
 has led him to notice many of those mineral coincidences and appear- 
 ances,from which the geologist is enabled to draw the most import 
 fant conclusions.
 
 42 
 
 terized by an earthy, dull grey, compact limestone, 
 which gives out no odour in breaking, contains 
 shells, sparingly imbedded, and burns to a good 
 quicklime. It is in this formation, that the gypsum 
 beds of Caledonia, Vienna, and Waterloo, are situ- 
 ated ; and which, also, appears in the vicinity of 
 the sulphur springs, in Farmington,* and the beds 
 of lenticular oxyd of iron,t in Palmyra, Williamson, 
 
 * For an account of these springs, see a Memoir, by J. H. 
 Redfield, in the 2d vol of the Literary and Philosophical Reper- 
 tory. A'so, Dr. Mitchill's Descriptive Catalogue of Minerals, 
 vol. I. p-3. Bruce's Minera logical Journal. 
 
 t During the session of the legislature of New-York, in the win- 
 terof 1820, a loan of $10,000, was made to A. Cole, and asso- 
 ciates, to enable them to commence the manufacture of bar iron, 
 from the se beds of ore ; and it is understood, that works are 
 row in opera ion, at which a very malleable iron is manufactured. 
 According to an analysis ol this re, by Professor Eaton, of Bur- 
 lington Col'ege, (see Eaton's Geolog' , p. 266,) it yields thirty 
 per centum of metallic iron, and the on 1 contains petrefied voluti- 
 ns, small and well characterized. I am indebted to Mr. Andrew 
 !\I'Nat, of Geneva, for the fol owing interesting account, of the 
 locaii'.y of this mineral, ac< ompanied hy specimens of the ore. 
 
 " MEMORANDUM. 
 
 " Lenticular Argillaceous oxyd of Iron. 
 
 " TWO VARIETIES. 
 
 "Var. 1st. — A bright red, inclining to purple. — Is found in the 
 towns of Oniari ■, Williamson, Penfield, and Sodus, in Ontario 
 county. The small r d of ir>n, accompanying it, was wrought 
 from this ore, at forges erected, and now in operation, in the town 
 of Ontario. The ore is found in great abundance, (quantity sup- 
 po>ed to be inexhaustible) in a strip of country, about a mile in 
 width, and midway ' etween the Ridge (Niagara) Road, and the 
 south shore of Lake Ontario, which are about an average of four 
 miles apart, and nearly parallel with each other. The ore is 
 found, geneially. ai the depth of three to five feet below the sur- 
 face, and appears to extend downwards a considerable depth —
 
 43 
 
 and Wolcott, in Ontario county. In the town of 
 Caledonia it serves as the basis, to several varie- 
 ties of madrepores, and corrallines, found in a state 
 of petrefaction, and in the oak openings of Niagara 
 county, it incloses nodules of hornstone.* This 
 hornstone, is also found among the debris, of the 
 Falls of Niagara, accompanied by radiated quartz, 
 rhomboidal crystals of carbonate of lime, foliated 
 and snowy gypsum, and slight traces of the sul- 
 phuret of zinc.f 
 
 These rocks, (sandstone, slate, and limestone) 
 
 perhaps 10 to 15 feet, growing better as it descends. The upper 
 soil, is a reddish sandy loam — then a species of greenish clay, 
 resting upon the ore. The < re is sometimes wrapt up in insolaled 
 roundish masses — sometimes in extended beds, similar to gypsum 
 beds or quarries. 
 
 " VAR.2d. — A dark red, inclining to brown. — Is found in (he town 
 of Wolcott, Seneca county, on the inlet of P<rt Bay, at the same 
 distance from Lake Ontario, and lying in the same direction, as 'he 
 above first mentioned kind. The soil, &c\ are similar. The spe- 
 cimen herewith delivered, was taken from the surface of the ore 
 bed, which lies naked at the bottom of the stream. The water 
 has, probably, produced the difference in colour whi h exists 
 between this and the first kind. It is believed, that there is a 
 continuation of the stratum in Ontario, extending east under So- 
 dus Bay. A mile or two south of the ore, up stream, there is a 
 perpendicular fall of 40 feet, over a bluish slaty rock ; s ' i!l fur- 
 ther south, "he bed of the inlet, is a smooth rock, apparently lime- 
 stone, of secondary formation, until the creek crosses the summit 
 level, (a perfect bog) north of Cress lake, in Galen." — Extract 
 from a Com. by A M'Nab, Esq. 18th Oct. 1320. 
 
 * Considered as Flint, by Dr. Mit hill, in his Descriptive Cata- 
 logue. See Bruce's Mineralogical Journal. Also, Cleaveland's 
 Mineralogy. 
 
 t Blende. Black-jack. Pseudo-galena.
 
 u 
 
 Jfiowevcr their properties may be found modified, by 
 future discoveries, will probably be found, with a 
 proper allowance lor local formations, and distur- 
 bances, to pervade all that section of country, which 
 lies between the Niagara and Seneca rivers,— between 
 Lakes Ontario and Seneca, — and between the Alle- 
 ga «y river and the south shore of Lake Erie, as gene- 
 ral boundaries. All this section of country, appears to 
 be underlayed by a stratum of red sand t-tone, such 
 as appears at the Genesee Falls, but which is im- 
 bedded at various depths, as the country happens 
 to be elevated above, or depressed below the level 
 of the Niagara stratum, in which no inclination, is 
 visible.* No order of stratification, could have 
 been affected by nature, which would have afforded 
 greater facilities, to the wasting effects of falling wa- 
 ter, so visible at these Falls. The slate which sepa- 
 rates the calcareous from the sand stone rock, by a 
 stratum of nearly forty feet in thickness, is continual- 
 ly fretting away, and undermining the superincum- 
 bent stratum of limestone, which is thus precipitated 
 
 * I find these observations, on the floeta rocks of the Genesee 
 country, corroborated by those of an accnrate observer of geolo- 
 gical appearances Samuel M. Hopkins, Esq. of Genesee, who, in 
 his Address, before the Agricultural Society of that county, ( 1 8 19) 
 and in allusion to '.he horizontal position of the rock strata, says: 
 " This is not the only circumstance, in the geology of this coun- 
 try- which, according to the imperfect notions of the writer, is 
 very remarkable. Not only does the whole level country, seem to 
 have been once covered by ^kes, but the deep chasms, which are 
 formed by the Niagara, and other falls, disclose facts which 
 would seem to prove, that the whole sub-stratum, for several hun- 
 dred feet beneath those former lakes, has undergone successive 
 changes, by the action of water. These appearances, would well 
 repay the labour of the geologist, who would investigate them." : — 
 Plough Boy, vol. I. p. 372.
 
 45 
 
 in prodigious masses, into the abyss below. The 
 most considerable occurrence of this kind, that has 
 recently taken place, is, that of the Table Rock,* on 
 the Canadian shore, which fell during the summer 
 of i 81 8, disclosing a number of those crystallized 
 substances, which have already been alluded to. — 
 By these means, the falls, which are supposed by 
 the most intelligent visitors, to have been anciently 
 seated at Lewiston. have progressed seven miles up 
 the river, cutting a trench through the solid rock, 
 which is about half a mile in width, and two hundred 
 feet in depth, exclusive of what is hidden by the 
 water. The power, capable of effecting such a won- 
 derful change still exists, and may be supposed to 
 operate with undiminished activity. The wasting 
 effects of the water, and the yielding nature of the 
 rocks, remain the same, and manifest the slow pro- 
 cess of a change, at the present period, as to posi- 
 tion, height, form, division of column and other cha- 
 racters, which form the outlines of the great scene; 
 and this change is sprobably sufficiently rapid in its 
 operation, if minute observations were taken, to im- 
 print a different character upon the Falls, at the close 
 of every century Nothing in the examination of 
 the geological constitution, and mineral strata of our 
 continent, conveys a more striking illustration of its 
 remote antiquity, (still doubted by many) than a 
 consideration of the time, it must have required for 
 the waters of Niagara, to have worn their channel, 
 for such an immense distance, through the rock. It 
 
 * 1 he Table Rock, was a favourite point of view for many 
 years, and the day preceding the ni^ht on which it fell with tre- 
 mendous noise, a number of visitors, had stood with careless secu- 
 rity upon it.
 
 1G 
 
 is true, we are in possession of no certain data, for 
 estimating the annual rate of their progress, or for 
 comparing the results with the Mosaic history of the 
 earth. All that can be presumed is, that this pro- 
 gress, is now as rapid, as it was in former ages. The 
 discovery of these Falls does not appear to have 
 been made, until an hundred and eighty-six years af- 
 ter the first visit of Columbus to the American con- 
 tinent in 1492, or a hundred and eighty years after 
 the discovery of North America by Cabot, in J 497. 
 I assume the period of La Salle's visit, in 1678, as 
 the basis of these deductions, but my opportunities 
 of research, do not allow me to state with certainty 
 that he was the first visitor, who has furnished a 
 printed account of them. He was followed by La 
 Hontan, in 1G83, and by the Jesuit, Charlevoix, in 
 1721 ; but, they give no accounts which are suffi- 
 ciently precise, to enable us to determine what 
 changes have since taken place in the aspect of the 
 Falls. It was not, indeed, until after the dismem- 
 berment of the Iroquois confederacy, that the path to 
 the Falls, was opened to the English Colonies, the 
 date of whose unmolested intercourse with this region, 
 cannot, however, precede that of the ratification of 
 the definitive treaty of peace, with Great Britain, in 
 1784. It is, therefore, only thirty-six years, since it 
 has been the free and fashionable resort of all sec- 
 tions of the Union. Maps and descriptions are now 
 extant, which will enable us to fix the rate of its 
 progress, on the expiration of the present century, 
 and we should not be disappointed in our anticipa- 
 tions, if its progress is found, greatly to exceed the 
 prevalent expectation. To aid in the determina- 
 tion, the Island of Iris, which extends from the brink
 
 47 
 
 ©f the Fall, up the river, and which is now connected 
 with th^ shore, by a wooden bridge, appears to pre- 
 sent great facilities. A simple measurement of its 
 length, wit!) a monument for recording it at its head, 
 would convert it into a graduated scale, and the 
 poiut of the indentation of the Horse Shoe Fall, could, 
 in like manner, be perpetuated on either shore, by a 
 series of corresponding celestial observations, for de- 
 termining the longitude of the extreme point of that 
 incurvation. Distant ages would thus be furnished 
 with data, the precision of which, would probably 
 enable them to throw new and important lights on 
 the history of the e irth, and the changes it has un- 
 dergone. Is this suggestion of too visionary a na- 
 ture, to merit the consideration of geological soci- 
 eties ? 
 
 On the third of May, I returned to Buffalo, and 
 found the lake rapidly discharging its ice, which had 
 been recently broken up by the wind. On the sixth, 
 1 embarked on board the Steam-Boat,* which left. 
 Black Rock at nine in the morning, and reached De- 
 troit on the eighth at twelve at night. We were fa- 
 voured with clear weather, and a part of the time 
 with a fair wind. The Boat is large, uniting in 
 its construction a great degree of strength, con- 
 venience, and elegance, and is propelled by a pow- 
 erful and well cast engine, on the Fultonian plan, and 
 one of the best pieces of workmanship of the origin- 
 
 * Called the " Waik-in-the-Water," J. Rodgers, master. This 
 boat performed her first trip in 1818, eleven years after the first 
 introduction of Steam-Boats upon the Huds-m, and 139 years af- 
 ter the first vessel (larger than an Indian Canoe) was built upon 
 Lake Erie. See page 33.
 
 43 
 
 al foundry.* The accommodations of the boat arc 
 all that could be wished, and nothing occured to in- 
 terrupt the delight, which a passage at this season, 
 affords. The distance is computed at three hundred 
 miles ; the time we employed in the voyage was six- 
 ty-two hours, which gives an average rate of travel- 
 ling of five miles per hour. The first two miles after 
 leaving Black Rock, a very heavy rapid is encoun- 
 tered, in ascending which, the assistance of oxen is 
 required. It terminates a short distance below the 
 mouth of Buffalo creek, an \ immediately opposite 
 ihe village of Buffalo, where we find ourselves on 
 the level of the waters of Lake Erie five hundred and 
 sixty feet above the tide waters of the Hudson river, f 
 In passing through Lake Erie, the Boat touches at 
 the town of Erie, in Pennsylvania, at the mouth of 
 Grande River, and at the towns of Cleaveland and 
 Portland, in Ohio, the latter situated on Sandusky 
 Bay. On coming out of this Bay, we passed a large 
 and well wooded island, which bears the name of 
 Cunningham, and immediately came in sight of the 
 rocky cluster of the Put-in-Bay or Bass Islands J 
 
 * M'Queen's, New York. 
 
 t See Report of the New York Canal Commissioners, to the 
 Legislature, accompanied with a chart. 
 
 t " The Bass islands f rrn a group of seven, lying about three 
 miles from part of the Sandusky peninsula and, as I have already 
 observed, seven or eight niiles northwest of Cunningham's island. 
 Put-in-bay, is formed by a curve of the largest and most southern 
 ofthe Bass gr ups, having two entrances, one from the east and 
 the other from the west. The bay is very finely land-locked. The 
 second large island of the group, stretching from east to west 
 across the widest part at ha'f a mile distant, and one ofthe smaller 
 islands lying opposite each channel. The three main islands do 
 not differ much in extent, though that in which is Pu>-in-bay is he 
 large.-t. All are uninhabited, and coveted with a dense forest I 
 had no means to determine their area with certainty, but judged
 
 49 
 
 which afford one of the best harbours in the lake, 
 and have acquired some celebrity from the circum- 
 stance of Com. Perry's having been at anchor there 
 on the morning previous to the memorable victory 
 
 the three main islands to average about one and a half miles long, 
 and half a mile wide, and may cover from 2,500 to 3000 acres ta- 
 ken collectively, resting upon a solid mass of schistose rock in great 
 part limestone. From here limestone, for the purpose of making 
 lime, is carried as far as Detroit and Cleaveland. The soil is ex- 
 cellent, and would admit a settlement of thirty or forty fami- 
 lies. But every object of utility to which the Bass islands could be 
 applied, yields to the importance of Put-in bay. This fine haven 
 admits entrance and anchorage for vessels of any supposable 
 draught, safe from all winds. It must become, from its position 
 and depth of water- an object of great national value. No harbour 
 in Lake Erie, or in its connecting waters, except in Erie strait, can 
 in any respect compare with it ; its occupation as a naval and com- 
 mercial station must one day take place." — Darby's Tour to De- 
 troit, p. 185, 186. 
 
 In one of the smallest of these Islands, called Moss Island, 
 a large quantity of crystalized sulphatof Strontian, has recent- 
 ly been discovered. 
 
 Having received several specimens of this mineral, from Mr. 
 Win. A Bird, of Troy, one of which is the fragment of a crystal 
 weighing two pounds, 1 wrote to him for some account of its local- 
 ity and gf ognostic position, and shall here, although without hav- 
 ing solicited his permission, make an extract from the reply, with 
 which he favoured me 
 
 "On our return down the lake last fall, (1820) we were be- 
 calmed near the Islands in Lake Erie — I took a boat and accompa- 
 nied by Maj Delafield, Mr. A. Stebenson, and Mr. De Russy (who 
 was to be our guide) went in search of the Strontian to the main 
 shore, where Mr. De Russy says, it was found in the summer of 
 1819- After an unsuccessful search of an hour, we gave it up and 
 determined to return to our vessel — on our way we stopped at 
 Moss Island, when immediately on landing, we found the mineral 
 in question, — 1 wandered a little from the others, and found the 
 large bed of which I spoke tu you. We there procured large 
 quantities, and some large crystals. 
 
 7
 
 30 
 
 of the tenth of September, 1813* We passed 
 through this cluster, and another, called the Three 
 Sisters, which lie in the Steam-Boat track between 
 Put-in-Bay and the mouth of Detroit river, and en- 
 tered the latter at twilight on the eighth. We had 
 a view of the Fort and town of Maiden or Amherst- 
 bur«\ which lie a few miles above the entrance into 
 the river, and immediately opposite the fertile islands 
 of Bois Blanc and Grosse Isle. These were the last 
 objects that could be distinguished ; the night was 
 dark, and we reached Detroit at a late hour, and 
 
 " This Strontian was found on the south side of Moss Island, in 
 a horizontal vein of three feet in tlickness, and from 40 to 50 feet 
 in length. I had no means »f judging its depth into the rock. The 
 bane of the Inland is wholly compact limestone in which shells 
 scarcely, if ever appear. The commissioner (Gen. P. B. Porter, 
 acting under the treaty of Ghent, H. R. S.) has given his permis- 
 sion, and 1 shall name this Island on tie maps, " Strontian Island," 
 by which name I presume it will hereafter be known." 
 
 The same substance had been found upon an ther part of this isl- 
 and (as appears from Eaton's Geology, p. 234.) by the gentlemen 
 attached to the boundary commission, during the preceding year, 
 but not in the surprising quantity above stated. Professor Dong- 
 lass, of West Point, and myself, have also noticed it upon Grosse 
 Isle, in Detroit river, in the month of May,l820, but lound no crys- 
 tals of more than a few ounces in weight. We found it lining con- 
 cavities in a horizontal stratum of compact limestone destitute of 
 organic remains. This locality is astonn quarry, which has been 
 opened on the lands of Miss A. M'Comb of Detroit, and from 
 which a great proportion of the Luilding stone of that city is 
 brought. 
 
 From these facts it appears, that this mineral, hitherto so very 
 sparingly found cither in Europe or America, exists abundantly in 
 the region around the head of Lake Erie, and should the progress 
 of the arts require it, it is probable that the compact lime.- tone of 
 the Erie and Detroit Islands, may hereafter be found to yield a suf- 
 ficient and lasting supply.
 
 01 
 
 without an opportunity of then witnessing the pictur- 
 esque view, which the approach to that town, and 
 the country adjacent, presents. 
 
 Detroit occupies an eligible situation on the west 
 banks of the strait that connects Lake Erie with Lake 
 St. Clair, at the distance of six miles below the latter, 
 and in north latitude 42° 30' according to the receiv- 
 ed observation. The town consists of about two hun- 
 dred and fifty houses, including public buildings,* 
 and has a population of fourteen hundred and fifteen 
 inhabitants, exclusive of the garrison. f It enjoys the 
 
 * The following; is a list of (he public buildings of Detroit : 
 1. A Roman Catholic church, U6 fret in length, by 6o in breath 
 — is 110 feet high with two steeples, has a chapel under ground 65 
 feet by 60, originally designed for a nunnery. Building — of stone 
 and not entirely finished. 
 
 2. A Protestant Church, built of wood, painted and furnished 
 with a dome supported by wooden pillars 
 
 3. An Academy of brick — is 50 feet long, by 24 in breath. 
 
 4. A Penitentiary — is built of stone, two stories high, and 88 feet 
 by 44 on the ground. 
 
 5. The Council house — occupied by the Indian department, is 
 built of stone 27 feet by 50. 
 
 6. The banking house of the bank of Michigan, 36 feet square, 
 two stories high, built of brick. 
 
 7. A market house, 60 by 30. 
 
 8. Government store-house — of brick, 100 feet by 40. 
 
 9. Military Arsenal— is 50 by 38, two stories high, built of stone. 
 
 10. The Oidnance store-house, a spacious stone building. 
 
 11. To these may be added Fort Shelby, which stands in the 
 town, and the adjoining barracks, capable of quartering several re- 
 giments. 
 
 t This is the result of the census of 1820, for the communica- 
 tion of which, together with thp greater part of the details I publish 
 respecting modern Detroit, I have to ar knowledge my obligations 
 to James D. Doty, Esq. attorney at law, of that place, and one of 
 the members of the late expedition lo the sources of the Mississippi.
 
 52 
 
 advantages of a regular plan, spacious streets, and a 
 handsome elevation of about forty feet above the riv- 
 er, of which it commands the finest views. Very few 
 of the French antiquated buildings remain. There 
 are several buildings of brick and stone, but the 
 greatest number are painted wooden dwellings, in the 
 style of architecture, which is prevalent in the wes- 
 tern parts of the state of New-York. An air of ta^te 
 and neatness is thus thrown over the town, which su- 
 peradded to its elevated situation, the appearances 
 of an active and growing commerce, the bustle of 
 mechanical business, its moral institutions,* and the 
 local beauty of the site, strikes us with a feeling of 
 surprise which is the more gratifying as it was not 
 anticipated. 
 
 The site of Detroit was occupied by an Indian vil- 
 lage, called Teuchsagrondicrfxvhen first visited by the 
 French; and among the singularities of its history, 
 we find that it is one of the most ancient European 
 settlements in the interior of the new world, having 
 been a stopping place for the Couriers du Bois and 
 
 * Societies at Detroit. 
 
 1. The Lyceum of the city of Detroit. Its object is the cultiva- 
 tion of general science and literature. Its meetings are popular. 
 ?.. A Society for the Promotion of Agriculture. 
 
 3. A Mechanics' Society. 
 
 4. A Bible Society. 
 
 5. Chapter of Royal Arch Masons. 
 
 6. Masters' Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons. 
 
 7. A Moral and Humane Society. 
 
 8. A Sunday School Association. 
 
 There are two catholic, a nrotestant and a methodist clergyman. 
 12 altornies, and 8 physicians. 
 
 t Coldcn'a History of the Five Nations.
 
 a3 
 
 Jesuit Missionaries, as early as 1620. Quebec was 
 founded in 1608 ; Albany, 1614. The New-England 
 Pilgrims landed at Plymouth, in 1620. Regular set- 
 tlements do not appear, however, to have been made 
 at Detroit until the commencement of the seventeenth 
 century. Charlevoix, who landed here in June, 1 721, 
 found it the site of a French Fort called Ponchar- 
 train, under the command of La Salle's Lieutenant, M. 
 Tonti. He speaks of the beauty and fertility of the 
 country, in terms of the highest admiration. " It is 
 pretended," he says, w that this is the finest portion of 
 all Canada, and really, if we may judge by appearan- 
 ces, nature seems to have refused it nothing that can 
 contribute to make a country delightful ; hills, mea- 
 dows, fi^Jds, lofty forests, rivulets, fountains, and riv- 
 ers, and all of them so excellent in their kind, and 
 so happily blended, as to equal the most romantic 
 wishes. The lands, however, are not all equally 
 proper for every sort of grain, but in general are of 
 a wonderful fertility, and I have known some pro- 
 duce good wheat for eighteen years in succession, 
 without any manure. The islands seem placed in 
 the river on purpose to enhance the beauty of the 
 prospect ; the river and lake abound in fish, the air 
 is pure, and the climate temperate and extremely 
 wholesome."* There were then three bands of In- 
 dians located upon the west banks of the strait, be- 
 tween lakes Erie and St. Clair. The first on ascend- 
 ing, consisted of the Dionondadies,f a band of Wy- 
 
 * Charlevoix's Journal of a Voyage to N. America, vol. II, p. 6. 
 
 t Called Tiotiontatez by Charlevoix, and Amibouis by the 
 French generally, but I follow the orthography of Colden.
 
 5J 
 
 andots,* having high pretensions to ancestry, and 
 who were considered the radical stock of the Wyan- 
 dot tribe.t Between these and Fort Ponchartrain, 
 there was a settlement of Pottawattomies, and be- 
 yond the fort along the banks of Lake St. Clair, the 
 Ottaways held possession. Charlevoix alludes to 
 the labours of former missionaries among them, who 
 appear to have been most successful with the Hurons, 
 but of the French settlement which is stated to be 
 of fifteen years standing, he adds, that " it has been 
 reduced almost to nothing;," and points out to the 
 Dutchess de Lesdiguieres, to whom his letters are 
 addressed; the advantages that New France wtnild 
 derive from a permanent settlement at that place. 
 
 The history of Detroit, during thi^ early.period 
 is that of the territory of which it is now the capital, 
 ft was noted throughout the earliest settlements of 
 the colonies, as the rendezvous of the Couriers du 
 Bois, and the mart where the remote tribes of the 
 North and West, called collectively the Far Indians^ 
 by early writers, exchanged their peltries for Euro- 
 pean manufactures ; and when the fall of Quebec 
 and Montreal in 1759, added the Canadas to the Bri- 
 tish crown, Detroit was a considerable French vil- 
 lage, defended by a stockaded fort, and surrounded 
 
 * Called Hurons by the French. Qualoghies, by the Iroquois 
 and English. This is one of the few Indian tribes in the U^ S. 
 who are called by the name vvhicii they have bestowed upon them- 
 selves as a nation. 
 
 f The council fire of this tribe, which is always the rallying 
 point among our savages, is understood to be still fixed at the 
 place indicated by Charlevoix,as the residence of the Dionondadies, 
 viz. at L'rowntown, at the mouth of Detroit river. 
 
 i Colden's Five Nations.
 
 55 
 
 with a farming population. In the year 1763,*(con- 
 taining then a British garrison of three hundred men, 
 under Major Gladwyn) it was besieged by a confed- 
 eracyf of Indian tribes under Pontiac, an Ottawayf 
 chief, who displayed such a boldness in his designs, 
 such skill in negociation, and such personal courage 
 in war, as to justify us in considering him one of the 
 greatest men which have ever appeared among the 
 Indian tribes of North America.§ He was the deci- 
 ded and constant enemy of the British government 
 and excelled all his cotemporaries in both mental 
 and bodily vigour. His conspiracy for making him- 
 self master of the town of Detroit, and destroying the 
 garrison, although frustrated, is a masterpiece among 
 
 * Carver places the date of Pontiac's sieg-e, in 1762, but I have 
 followed Henry, who was an officer of the army of Gen. Brad- 
 street, which marched to the relief of the Fort in 1764. He says 
 the siege had then been continued nearly twelve months and must 
 consequently have began in 1763. 
 
 Henry's Travels and Adventures'in Canada, and the Indian Ter- 
 ritories between the years 1760 and 1776. 
 
 t The tribes composing this confederacy were the Miamis, Cu- 
 taways, Chippeways, Wyandots, Pottawatames, Mississagas, 
 Shawnese, Ottagamies and Winnebagoes. 
 
 | Pontiac is considered by Carver as a Miami ; but those per- 
 sons best acquainted with the subject at Detroit, among whom is 
 the present chief magistrate of the Michigan Territory, consider 
 him to have been an Ottaway. 
 
 § There is but a single individual in the history of aboriginal 
 chiefs who will bear a comparison with Pontiac. This is Tecuin- 
 seh, (a name still fresh in every body's recollection,) who, by 
 his extraordinary powers, both of mind and body, formed a confed- 
 eration of the same Indian tribes, under the British standard,whom 
 Pontiac had formerly led against it..
 
 51) 
 
 Indian stratagems ; and bis victory over the British 
 troops, at the battle of Bloody Bridge, stands unpar- 
 alleled in the history of Indian wars, for the decision 
 and steady courage by which it was, in an open fight, 
 achieved.* 
 
 * I cannot resist the inclination I feel of giving in this place, an 
 extract from the interesting account which Carver has given of the 
 life and war oflhis extraordinary chief. 
 
 11 The town of Detroit, when Pontiac formed his plan, was gar- 
 risoned by about three hundred men, commanded by Major Glad- 
 win, a gallant officer. As at that time every appearance of war 
 was at an end. and the Indians stemed to be on a friendly footing, 
 Pontiac approached the Fort, without exciting any susp ; ci f os in 
 the breast of the governor or the inhabitants. He encamped at a 
 little distance from it. and sent to let the commandant know that 
 he was come to trade : and being desirous of brightening the 
 chain of peace between the English and his nation, desired that he 
 and his chiefs might be admitted to hold council with him. The 
 governor still unsuspicious, ar.d not in the least doubting ihe since- 
 rity of the Indians, granted their general's request, and fixed on 
 the next morning for their reception. 
 
 " The evening of that day, an Indian woman who had been em- 
 ployed by Major Gladwyu, to make him a pair of Indian shoes, out 
 of curious elk-skin, brought them home. The Maj ir was so pleas- 
 ed with them, that, intending these as a present for a friend, he 
 ordered her to take the remainder back, and make it iido others for 
 himself. He then directed his servant to pay her lor those she had 
 done, and dismissed her. The woman went to the door that led 
 to the street, but no further; she then loitered about as if she had 
 not finished the business on which she came. A servant at length 
 observed her, and asked her why she staid there; she gave him, 
 however, no answer. 
 
 " Some short time after, the governor himself saw her; and en- 
 quired of his servant what occasioned her slay. Mot being ahle 
 to get a satisfactory answer, he ordered the woman to be cal_ 
 led in. When she came into his presence he desired to know 
 what u.is the reason of her loitering about, and not hastening home 
 before the gates were shut, that she might complete in due time the
 
 57 
 
 The siege of Detroit was continued by Pontiac, 
 for nearly twelve months together, during which time 
 the garrison, although gallantly defended by the I ri- 
 tish commandant, had suffered severely, and the con- 
 federate Indians had been frequently on the point o£ 
 
 work he h?. i fiven her to do. She told him, after mu h hesitation 
 that as he had always behaved with great goodness towards her, 
 she was unwilling to take away the ret; ainder of the skin beca se 
 he put so great a value upon it ; and yet had not been able to pre- 
 vail upon herself to tell him so. He then asked her, why she was 
 more reluctant to do so now, than she had been when she made 
 the former pair. With increased reluctance she answered, that 
 she never should be able to bring them bark. 
 
 '• Elis curiosity being now excited, he insisted on herdisclosing to 
 him the sei ret that seemed to be struggling in her bosom for ut- 
 terance. At last, on receiving a promise that the intelligence she 
 was about to give him should not turn to her prejudice, and that 
 if it appeared to be beneficial she should be rewarded for it, she 
 informed him, that at the council to be held with the Indians the 
 following day, Pontiac and his < hiefs intended to murder him; 
 and, after having massacred the garrison a d inhabitants, to plun- 
 der the town. That for this purpose all the chiefs who were to be 
 admitted into the council-room had cut their guns short, so that 
 they could conceal them under their blankets; with which, at a 
 signal gi\en by their general, on delivering the belt, they 
 were all to rise up, and instantly to fire on him and his attendants. 
 Having effected this, they were immediately to rush into the town, 
 where they would find themselves supported by a great number of 
 their warriors, that were to come into it during the sitting ol the 
 council, under pretence of trading, but privately armed in the 
 spine manner- Having gained from the woman every necessary 
 particular relative to the plot, and also the means by which she 
 acquired a knowledge of them, he dismis-ed her with injunctions 
 of secrecy, and a promise of fulfilling on his part with punctuality 
 the engagements he had entered into. 
 
 " The intelligence the governor had just received, gave him great 
 uneasiness ; and he immediately consulted the officer who was 
 next to him in command on the subject. But that gentleman con- 
 
 8
 
 58 
 
 carrying the town by assault. At length the ap- 
 proach of Gen. Bradstreet. with 3000 men,* struck 
 the Indians with consternation, and they met him 
 with offers of peace at Miami Bay. A few days af- 
 terwards, on the eighth of August, 1764, he arrived 
 
 sidering the information as a story invented for some artful pur- 
 poses, advised him to pay no attention to it This conclusion how- 
 ever had happily no weight with him. He thought it prudent to 
 conclude it to be true till he was convinced that it was not so ; 
 and therefore, without revealing his suspicions to any other person, 
 he took every needful precaution that the time would ad. \it of 
 He walked round the fort during the whole night, and saw himself 
 that every centinel was on duty, and every weapon of defence in 
 proper order 
 
 " As he traversed the ramparts which lay nearest to the Indian 
 camp, he heard them in high festivity, and, little imagining that 
 their plot was discovered, probably pleasing themselves with the 
 anticipation of their success. As soon as the morning dawned, he 
 ordered all the garrison underarms; and then impar ing his ap- 
 prehensions to a few of the principal officers, gave them such di- 
 rections as he thought necessary. At the same time he sent round 
 to all the traders, to inform them, that as it was expected a great- 
 number of Indians would enter ihe town that day. who might be in. 
 dined to plunder, he desired they would have their arms ready, 
 and repel every attempt of that kind. 
 
 11 About ten o'clock, Pontiac and his chiefs arrived ; and were ^on- 
 ducted to the council-chamber, where the governor and his princi- 
 pal officers, each with pistols in their belt, awaited his arrival. As 
 the Indians passed on, they could not help observing that a greater 
 number of troops than usual were drawn up on the parade, or 
 inarching about No sooner were they entered, and seated on the 
 L ; kins prepared for them, than Pontiac asked the governor on what 
 occasion his young men, meaning the soldiers, were thus drawn up, 
 and parading the streets. He received for answer, that it was 
 only intended to keep them perfect in their exercise. 
 
 " The Indian chief-warriur now began his ^jeech, which contain- 
 ed the strongest professions of friendship and good will towards 
 
 * Henry's Travels, p. 182.
 
 59 
 
 at Detroit, and a general peace ensued. Pontiac, 
 unable to control the events of a war in which he saw 
 himself deserted by numbers of his followers, and un- 
 willing to live on terms of friendship with a people 
 to whom he had imbibed an early hatred, the conse- 
 quence of his attachment to the French, fled to Illi- 
 nois, where he afterwards paid the price of his en- 
 mity with his life.* 
 
 the English : and when he came to the delivery of the belt of wam- 
 pum, the parti- ular mode of which, according to the woman's 
 information) was to be the ml rial for his chiefs to fire, the governor 
 and all his attendants drew their sword- halfway out of their seab- 
 bords; and the soldiers at the same instant made a clattering with 
 their arms before the doors, which had been purposely left open. 
 Pontiae. though one of the boldest of men, immediately turned 
 pale, and trembled ; and instead of giving the belt in the manner 
 proposed, delivered it according to the usual way. His chiefs, 
 who had impatiently expected the signal, looked at each other with 
 astonishment, but continued quiet, waiting the result. 
 
 " The governor in his turn made a speech ; but instead of thank- 
 ing the great warrior for the professions of friendship he had just 
 uttered, he accused him of being a traitor. He told him that the 
 English, who knew every thing, were convinced of his treachery 
 and villanous designs; and as a proof that they were well acquaint- 
 ed with his most secret thoughts and intentions, he stepped towards 
 the Indian chief that sat nearest to him, and drawing aside his 
 blanket discovered the shortened firelock. This entirely discon- 
 certed the Indians, and frustrated their design. 
 
 ft He then continued to tell them, that as he had given his word at 
 the time they desired an audiance, that their persons should be 
 safe, he would hold his promise inviolable, though they so little de- 
 served it. However he advised them to make the best of their 
 way out of the fort, lest his young men. on being acquainted with 
 their treacherous purposes, should cut every one of them to pieces. 
 
 * Henry denies that the death of Pontiac is attributable to the 
 Influence of the British government, but admits that the account 
 which Carver gives of it, is, in other respects, correct.
 
 60 
 
 After the close of Pontiac's war, Detroit enjoyed 
 a period of tranquillity, which continued until the 
 breaking out of the American Revolution, at the 
 close of which, it fell by the definitive treaty of peace 
 oi i784, under the jurisdiction of the United States. 
 
 i( Pottiac endeavoured to contradict the accusation and to make 
 excuses for his suspicious conduct ; but the governor, satisfied of 
 the falsity of his protestations, would not listen to him. The Indians 
 immediately left the fort, but instead of being sensible of the gov- 
 ernor's generous behaviour, they threw off the mask, and the next 
 day made a regular attack upon it 
 
 »' Major Gladwin has nol escaped censure for this mistaken leni- 
 ty : for probably had he kept a few of the principal chiefs prison- 
 er-, whilst he had them in his power, he might have been able to 
 have brought the whole confederacy to terms, and have prevented 
 a war. But he atoned for this oversight, by the gallant defence 
 he made for more than a year, amidst a variety of discourage- 
 ments. 
 
 ii During That period some very smart skirmishes happened be- 
 tween the besiegers and the garrison, of which the following was 
 the principal and most bloody : Captain Delzel, a hrave officer, 
 prevailed on the governor to give him the command of about two 
 hundred men. and to permit him to attack the enemy's camp, 
 This being complied with, he sallied from the town before day- 
 break ; but Poutiac. receiving from some of his swift-footed war- 
 riors, who were constantly employed in wtching the motions of 
 the garrison, timely intelligence of their design, he collected to- 
 gether the choi. -est of his troops, and met the detachment at some 
 distance from his camp, near a place since called Bloody-Bridge. 
 
 '• As the Indians were vastly superior in numbers to captain Del- 
 z 1's party, he wa- soon over-powered and driven back. Being 
 now n<arly surrounded, he made a vigorous effort to regain the 
 bridge he had just crossed, by which alone he could find a retreat j 
 but in doing this he lost his life, and many of his m. n fell with him. 
 II vever, Major Rogers, the second in command, assisted by 
 Lieutenant Brehana, found means to draw off the shattered remains 
 of their little army, and conducted them into the fort. 
 
 u i bus considerably reduced, it was with difficulty the Major 
 could defend the town ; notwithstanding which, he held out against
 
 61 
 
 The continued hostility of the Indian tribes, however, 
 prolonged the period of its surrender, for several 
 years ; and, according to Herriot,* the transfer of 
 authority did not take place until 1796. The inter- 
 mediate time was occupied by the Indian wars, suc- 
 
 the Indians till he was relieved, as after this they made but few 
 attacks on the place, and only continued to blockade it. 
 
 " The Gladwin Schooner (that in which 1 afterwards took ray 
 passage from Michilimaekinac to Detroit, and which I since learn 
 was lost with all her crew on Lake Lrie, through the obstinacy of 
 the commander, who could not be prevailed upon to take in suffi- 
 cient ballast) arrived about this time near the town with a rein- 
 forcement and necessary supplies. But before this vessel could 
 reach the plat e of its destination, it was most vigorously attacked 
 by a detachment from Pontiac's army. The Indians surrounded 
 it in their canoes, and made great havoek amon^ the crew. 
 
 "At length the captain of the schooner, with a considerable num- 
 ber of his men being kiled, and the savages beginning to cli;ib 
 up the sides from every quarter, the Lieutenant (Mr. Jacobs, who 
 afterwards commanded, and was lost in it) being determined that 
 the stores should not fall into the enemy's hands, and seeino- no 
 other alternative, ordered the gunner to set fie to the powder- 
 room, and blow the ship up This order was on the i-oiut of be- 
 ing executed, when a chief of the Hurons. who understood the 
 English language, gave out to his friends the intention of the com- 
 mander. On receiving this intelligence, the Indians hurried down 
 the sides of the ship with the greatest precipitation, and got as far 
 from it as possible ; whilst the commander immediately took ad- 
 vantage of their consternation, and arrived vvithout any further 
 obstruction at the town. 
 
 " This seasonable supply gave the garrison fresh spirits ; and 
 Pontiac being now convinced that it would not be in his power to 
 reduce the place, proposed an accommodation : the governdtf 
 wishing as mneh to get rid of such troublesome enemies, who ob- 
 structed the intercourse of the traders with the neighboring nations, 
 listened to his proposals, and having procured advantageous terms, 
 agreed to a peace. The Indians soon after separated, and return- 
 
 * See Herriot's Travels through the Canadas, in IS l3.
 
 62 
 
 eessively conducted by genernls Harmer, St Clair, 
 and Wayne, in which the bad success of the two 
 former, was amply compensated by the decisive cam- 
 paign of the latter, who possessed the faculty of trans- 
 fusing into the operations of his army, that wonderful 
 energy, for which he was characterized. By the 
 treaty of Greenville, of 179,'>, the post of Detroit was 
 surrendered to the United States ; and, from this 
 period, there has been an American garrison kept 
 here, with the exception of about eleven months, 
 which elapsed between the surrender of general 
 Hull, in 1812, and the re-occupation of the country, 
 by general Harrison, in 1813. 
 
 The town was first incorporated by the Legislative 
 Council and House of Representatives of the North- 
 west Territory, on the 18th of January, 1802. 
 
 In 1805, when it consisted, according to Herriot, 
 of upwards of two hundred houses, it was entirely 
 destroyed by fire, not a house being left on the plat 
 
 ed to their different provinces ; nor have they since thought pro- 
 per to disturb, at least in any great degree, the tranquillity of these 
 parts. 
 
 " Pontiac henceforward seemed to have laid aside the animosity 
 he had hitherto borne towards the English, and apparently became 
 their zealous friend. To reward this new atlachtnent, and to in- 
 sure a continuance of it, government allowed him a handsome pen- 
 sion- But his restless and intriguing spirit would not suffer him 
 to be grateful for this allowance, and his conduct at length grew 
 suspicious ; so that going, in the year 1767, to hold a council in 
 the country of the Illinois, a faithful Indian, who was either com- 
 missioned by one of the English governors, or instigated by the 
 love he bore the English nation, attended him as a spy ; and be • 
 ing convinced from the speech Pontiac made in the council, that 
 he still retained his former prejudices against those for whom he 
 now professed a friendship, he plunged his knife into his heart, 
 as soon as he had done speaking, and laid him dead on the spot."
 
 63 
 
 of the old town. This presented the opportunity of 
 widening the streets, and laying out the town upon 
 an improved plan, by which it has been much beau- 
 tified, and eventually advantaged. The old town 
 consisted wholly of wooden buildings, very compact, 
 with the streets only thirty feet wide, resembling, in 
 this respect, the antique French villages in Illinois, 
 Missouri, and Louisiana. 
 
 In 1810, the act incorporating the town was re- 
 pealed. 
 
 On the 16th of August, 181 2, articles of capitulation 
 were signed, by which the fort and town was sur- 
 rendered to a British army under general Brock, 
 who afterwards fell in the battle of Queenston. 
 
 On the 6th of October, 1813,* the town was re- 
 occupied by a division of the American army under 
 generals McArthur and Cass, and the latter subse- 
 quently appointed Governor of the Michigan Terri- 
 tory. 
 
 On the 24th of October, 7 815, the town was again 
 incorporated by the governor and judges of the ter- 
 ritory, under the name of " the City of Detroit." 
 
 By the act of Congress, passed January 1 1 th, 1 805, 
 it is declared to be the seat of the Territorial Go- 
 vernment, until Congress shall otherwise direct. 
 
 The ordinance of Congress of 1787, prohibits 
 slavery in the territory. This ordinance had respect 
 to all that extensive tract of then unincorporated 
 country, lying northwest of the Ohio river, and of 
 which the present states of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois 
 form a part. 
 
 These are some of the prominent civil and military 
 events of which Detroit has been the theatre, and 
 
 * See Fay's Battles of the late War, between 1S12-15.
 
 64 
 
 which, "by eliciting, from time to time, the attention 
 of the public, have conferred upon it a celebrity, 
 which the most populous cities, barren of historic 
 incident, never attain. This notoriety it has partak- 
 en of, in connexion with the surrounding country, 
 which continued to be the rallying point of contend- 
 ing armies, and the scene of Indian warfare and In- 
 dian barbarity, during two of the most important 
 campaigns of the late war. It has thus acquired an 
 interest from the sword, which neither the pen of the 
 poet, or the pencil of the painter, have been employ- 
 ed to excite. 
 
 It is gratifying, however, to behold, that Detroit 
 does not acquire its principal charm from extraneous 
 circumstance-, and that the local beauty of the site, 
 the fertile district of cultivated land by which it is 
 surrounded, and the advantages it enjoys for the pur- 
 poses of commerce, arc calculated to arrest our ad- 
 miration, and to oiiginate a high expectation of its 
 future destination and importance. A cursory exa- 
 mination of the map of the United States, will indi- 
 cate its importance as a pi ice of business, and a mi- 
 litary depot. Situated on the great chain of lakes, 
 connected, as they are, at almost innumerable points, 
 with the waters of the Mississippi, the Ohio, the St. 
 Law rence, the Hudson, and the Red River of the 
 JNorth, it communicates with the ocean, at four of 
 the most important points in the whole continent. 
 And when these natural channels of communication 
 shall be improved, so as to render them alik' passable 
 at all seasons of the year, the increasing products of 
 its commerce and agriculture, will be presented with 
 a choice of markets, at New-Orleans, New-York, or 
 Montreal, an advantage derived from its singular po-
 
 t>7 
 
 in a state of readiness. Our canoes, our arras, our 
 camp and other equipage, our provisions, a. id the 
 escort of soldiers destined to accompany us, all con- 
 tributed to furnish causes of delay ; and when no 
 other obstacle remained, the winds blew so directly 
 ahead, that no progress could be made against them. 
 This delay, which was scarcely a cause of regret to 
 any person, and from which the expedition eventu- 
 ally experienced not the slightest inconvenience, af- 
 forded us an opportunity of acquiring the most satis- 
 factory knowledge of the town, the adjacent country, 
 the climate, and the novelty of the water craft, in 
 which we were to perform this journey ; and, per- 
 haps, this lapse cannot be more appropriately filled, 
 than by some brief notices of such of the enumerat- 
 ed topics, as have not already been dwelt upon in 
 the preliminary remarks. Among these, the Indian 
 canoe, excited our earliest curiosity ; and after exa- 
 mining it with scrupulous attention, and making a 
 trial of its velocity upon the river, we were ready 
 to say, with an eloquent writer, " that its slender 
 and elegant form, its rapid movement, its capacity to 
 bear burdens, and to resist the rage of billows and. 
 torrents, excited no small degree of admiration, for 
 the skill by which it was constructed."* We were 
 struck with the difference, both as to the form and 
 materials of construction, between the canoe, by 
 which the savages formerly navigated the Hudson, 
 Connecticut, and Delaware, and that which is, at 
 present, employed by the northern tribes. The 
 former, as still remaining among us, is merely a log, 
 
 * Gouvprnpur Morris' Annual Discourse, before the New York 
 Historical Society, in 18 12. See their " Collections/' 2d vol. p. 
 116.
 
 68 
 
 which has been scooped out, and is, in every respect, 
 analogous, according to Mr. Pennant,* to the monoxyla 
 of the ancient Germans and Gauls, and to the pine 
 canoe of the savages of Nootka Sound, except that 
 the latter is supposed to exceed the ancient Europe- 
 an canoe, in the elegance of its form. " The old 
 Europeans, says Mr. Pennant, were content if they 
 could but float." The northwest canoe, is, on the con- 
 trary, constructed wholly of bark, cedar splints, the 
 roots of the spruce, and the pitch of the yellow pine, 
 productions which are common, from the frozen 
 ocean, situated within the arctic circle,f to the pa- 
 rallel of the forty-second degree of north latitude ; 
 antUhese articles are fabricated in a manner unit- 
 ing such an astonishing degree of lightness, 
 strength, and elegance, and with such a perfect adap- 
 tation to the country, and the difficulties of northern 
 voyages, as to create a sentiment of mixed surprise 
 and admiration. Those of the largest size, such as 
 are commonly employed in the fur trade of the north, 
 are thirty-five feet in length, and six feet in width, 
 at the widest part, tapering gradually towards the 
 bow and stern, which are brought to a wedge-like 
 point, and turned over, from the extremities, towards 
 the centre, so as to resemble, in some degree, the 
 head of a violin. See plate 2. iig. 1. They are con- 
 structed of the bark of the white birch tree, (betula 
 papyracea) which is peeled from the tree in large 
 sheets, and bent over a slender frame of cedar ribs, 
 confined by gunwales, which are kept apart by slen- 
 der bars of the same wood. Around these the bark 
 
 * See Pennant's Introduction to the Arctic Zoology, p. 235. 
 t See Ilcarne's Journey from Hudson's Bay to the Northern 
 Ocean,
 
 65 
 
 sition on the summit level in which the most consi- 
 derable rivers, lakes, and streams in America, ori- 
 ginate. It is thus destined to be to the regions of 
 the northwest, what St, Louis is rapidly becoming in 
 the southwest, the seat of its commerce, the reposi- 
 tory of its wealth, and the grand focus of its moral, 
 political and physical energies.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 JOURNEY, 
 
 FROM BET IiO IT TO THE ISLJjYD OF 
 MIC II I LIMA CKIJYA C. 
 
 1 he time which elapsed between my arrival at De- 
 troit on the 8th of May, and the date of our departure 
 on the iMth, was occupied in completing the prepa- 
 rations for the transportation, subsistence, and safe 
 conduct of an expedition of forty men, through a 
 country where the woods are not always to be relied 
 upon for game, and among Indian tribes, where a 
 welcome reception can only be certainly ensured by 
 a respectable display of physical power. There is, 
 perhaps, no instance in the history of voyages or 
 travels, where the preparations have been wholly 
 completed within the time originally contemplated. 
 There is always some labour, the difficulty of accom- 
 plishing which, has not been duly estimated, or some 
 untoward circumstance, wholly unforeseen, springs 
 up to increase the number of obstacles to be sur- 
 mounted, and to retard the period of departure. 
 Hence several weeks elapsed, after the navigation 
 of the lakes bad opened, and after the time original- 
 ly fixed for our departure, before we were, in reality.
 
 71 
 
 With respect to the climate of Detroit, the result 
 of our observations will allow us to speak in a very 
 favourable manner. Situated in the longitude of 
 Chillicothe, in Ohio, and on the parallel of latitude 
 which embraces Prarie du Chein, on the Mississippi, 
 and Albany, on the Hudson, it falls under that tem- 
 perate medium of climate, which is found so favour- 
 able to the cereal gramma, the grasses, and the fruit 
 trees of the United States. This we first witnessed 
 in the early development of spring, always one of 
 the best tests of the benignity of a climate. On 
 leaving Buffalo, on the 6th of May, the blossoms of 
 the peach tree were not yet fully expanded, and the 
 petals of the apple were just beginning to swell. 
 On reaching Detroit, two days afterwards, the leaves 
 of the peach blossom had fallen, and those of the 
 apple had passed the heighth of their bloom. Gar- 
 dening also, which had not commenced at Buffalo,* 
 we found finished at Detroit, and the half grown 
 leaves of the beach, the maple, the common hickory, 
 (juglans vulgaris), and the profusion of wild flowers 
 on the commons, gave to the forests and to the fields 
 the delightful appearance of spring. These facts 
 will go farther in determining upon the differences of 
 climate, than meteorological registers, which only 
 indicate the state of the atmosphere, without notic- 
 ing whether a corresponding effect is produced upon 
 vegetation. During ten days of the period of our 
 detention at Detroit, of which I kept a meteorologi- 
 cal register, the mean daily temperature of the 
 atmosphere, (for a period of ten days,) as indicated 
 
 * The thermometer observed at Buffalo for seven days, namely, 
 from April 29th to May 6th, indicated a mean temperature of 44* 
 at 8 o'clock in the morning, and 65? at 2 in the afternoon.
 
 72 
 
 by a Fahrenheit thermometer, was 61°.* The ave- 
 rage temperature of the whole month of May, at Al- 
 bany, according to the observations of Dr. Beck,t 
 was 58°. 
 
 By a journal of the weather kept at the garrison 
 of Detroit, (Fort Shelby), in obedience to orders 
 from the War Department, for a period of one hun- 
 dred and five days, namely, from the 15th November, 
 1818, to the *28th February, 1819, forty days are re- 
 marked to be " clear," forty " cloudy," thirteen " va- 
 riable," and twelve " cloudy, with rain or snow." The 
 average monthly temperature as noted by a Fah- 
 renheit thermometer during the same period, was, 
 for November 43°, December 25°, January 30°, and 
 February 33°.J According to a meteorological jour- 
 nal, kept at Albany, during the same time,§ the ave- 
 
 
 *Meteorolog 
 
 ical Observations, at Detroit. 
 
 | A. M. |P.M | 
 Date. |6.|8.jlu|12|6|8.p 
 
 Daily | Prevail 
 remp.| Winds. 
 
 | State of ilte 
 | Atmosphere. 
 
 REMARKS 
 
 May 
 
 15|50| | 
 
 I6i|5i|«n 
 
 52 | N. B 
 
 | Fair. 
 
 
 
 I6|49| 1| 
 
 |62|50|46| 
 
 51 | N. E. 
 
 | Fair, 
 
 
 
 I7jS0| | 
 
 |64|51| | 
 
 55 | N. E. 
 
 | Fa.r 
 
 
 
 18J.52| | 
 
 |64| ■\-i7\ 
 
 55 | N. E. 
 
 | Fair. 
 
 
 
 19| |60| 
 
 |68|60| | 
 
 62 ( N. E. 
 
 | Fair. 
 
 
 
 20| |64|67|68|63|61| 
 
 64 |N. N. E 
 
 | Pair. 
 
 
 
 21| |67| 
 
 |82|66|62| 
 
 69 |\Y.N.W 
 
 | Fan-. 
 
 Til 85° at 2 pm. 
 
 1 " " 
 
 i " 
 
 22| |64| 
 
 |88|82|65| 
 
 74 | S. VV. 
 
 | Fair. 
 
 89° at 2. 
 
 23| |72| 
 
 |84|76|62| 
 
 73 |W.N.W 
 
 | Cloudy. 
 
 Some rain. 
 
 
 
 24| \53\ 
 
 1C 
 
 53 | N. W. 
 
 Cloudy 
 
 Left Detroit at 4ptu 
 
 |(»12 
 
 
 
 61° average 
 
 daily temperatur 
 
 e of May. 
 
 t See Meteorological Register, for the month of May, 1820, in 
 the Plough Boy. 
 
 J See notes to " The Emigrant," printed by Shelden and Reed, 
 at Detroit. 1819. 
 
 $ Dr. T. H. Beck, Plough Boy, vol. I, pages 303^343.
 
 69 
 
 is sewed, by the slender and flexible roots of the 
 young spruce tree, called wattap, and also where the 
 pieces of bark join, so that the gunwales resemble 
 the rim of an Indian basket. The joinings are after- 
 wards luted, and rendered water tight, by a coat of 
 pine pitch, which, after it has been thickened by boil- 
 ing, is used under the name of gum. In the third 
 cross bar from the bow, an aperture is cut for a mast, 
 so that a sail can be employed, when the wind proves 
 favourable. Seats for those who paddle, are made 
 by suspending a strip of board, with cords, from the 
 gunwales, in such a manner, that they do not press 
 against the sides of the canoe. The Pur Companies 
 have lately introduced the use of oars, in propel- 
 ling the canoe; but the natives employ the cedar 
 paddle, with a light and slender blade. See fig. 14. 
 plate 2. In either case, they are steered with a larg- 
 er paddle, having a long handle, and a broad blade. 
 See fig. 2. plate 2. A canoe of this size, when em- 
 ployed in the fur trade, is calculated to carry sixty 
 packages of skins, weighing ninety pounds each, and 
 provisions to the amount of one thousand pounds. 
 This is exclusive of the weight of eight men, each of 
 whom are allowed to put on board, a bag or knap- 
 sack, of the weight of forty pounds. In addition to 
 this, every canoe, has a quantity of bark, wattap, gum, 
 a pan for heating the gum, an axe, and some smaller 
 articles necessary for repairs. The aggregate weight 
 of all this, may be estimated at about tour tons. Such 
 a canoe, thus loaded, is paddled by eight men, at 
 the rate of four miles per hour, in a perfect calm — is 
 carried across portages by four men — is easily re- 
 paired at any time and at any place, and is altogether 
 one of the most eligible modes of conveyance, that
 
 70 
 
 ean be employed upon the lakes, while in the inte- 
 rior of the northwest — for river navigation, where 
 there are many rapids and portages, nothing that has 
 been contrived to float upon water, offers an ade- 
 quate substitute. Every night the canoe is unloaded, 
 and, with the baggage, carried ashore; and if dur- 
 ing the day, a storm should arise, such is the activi- 
 ty of the Canadian voyageurs, that ten minutes time 
 is sufficient to effect a landing, and secure both ves- 
 sel and cargo. Recommended by these advantages, 
 we felt an avidity to test them by experience; and, 
 after a long voyage, in which we have had occasion 
 to complain of the confined posture of sitting, and of 
 the frequency of injuring the canoes, by striking 
 against hidden rocks and logs of wood, we have, ne- 
 vertheless, returned, with an unaltered opinion of 
 their superior utility and adaptation for northern 
 voyages. Such is the vessel in which Europeans, 
 adopting the customs of the savages, first entered 
 the great chain of American lakes, and in which thry 
 have successively discovered, the Mississippi, — the 
 Columbia, and the Arctic Sea; and the coincidence 
 is deserving of remark, that it has been employ- 
 ed by every traveller of the region, from the time of 
 Father Marquette, the Jesuit, to the discoveries of 
 Sir Alexander McKenzie.* 
 
 1 The order of travelling, in this region, is as follows r 
 
 1. Father Marquette. 
 
 2. La Salle. 
 
 3. Hennepin. 
 A. La Hontan. 
 
 5. Charlevoix. 
 
 6. Henry. 
 7- Carver. 
 
 8. McKenzie.
 
 73 
 
 rage temperature of the atmosphere was in January 
 22°, and in February 29°. These facts, while they 
 indicate a remarkable difference of climate between 
 two places whose received latitudes only vary nine 
 degrees,* are calculated to justify a remark which 
 we have frequently heard from intelligent persons 
 at Detroit, that they are favoured with a summer 
 atmosphere of uncommon serenity, and that their 
 winters are not so severe as those experienced in 
 the same latitudes east of the Alleghany mountains. 
 The winds which are expected at this season to 
 prevail here, as in the valley of the Ohio,t from the 
 southwest, had blown from the northeast, shifting to 
 the north and northwest, (points unfavourable to 
 those who are ascending through the lakes,) durino- 
 the whole period of our stay at Detroit. This gave 
 us no uneasiness so long as the preparations for the 
 journey were going forward, but when, on the 23d 
 of May, these were completed, and the canoes rea- 
 dy for embarkation, all felt the utmost anxiety to 
 proceed, and the governor, although suffering from 
 an attack of the fever and ague, fixed the following 
 day for our departure. 
 
 I. Day.— {May 24th, 1820.)— It was late in the day 
 before our baggage could be embarked. At four 
 o'clock in the afternoon, all was in readiness. A 
 large concourse of people had collected upon the 
 shore to offer us their good wishes, and to witness 
 our departure, when, upon the word being given, 
 the voyageurs, with one impulse, struck their pad- 
 
 * Lat. of Albany, 42° 39 '. Detroit, 42° 30 '. 
 f Drake's Natural and Statistical View of Cincinnati. 
 
 10
 
 74 
 
 dies in the water, and instantly chanting one of their 
 animated songs, we passed rapidly along the town, 
 and in two hours time, landed at Grosse Point, on 
 the west shore of Lake St. Clair, nine miles from 
 Detroit, where it had previously been determined 
 to encamp. To this place Governor Cass and suite, 
 accompanied by Gen. M'Comb of the army, and a 
 party of gentlemen and ladies from Detroit, who 
 honoured the expedition with this mark of attention, 
 proceeded by land. Feeling an anxiety to witness 
 the picturesque scenery presented from the river, I 
 embirked on board the canoes at Detroit, but had 
 nearly repented of my choice before reaching the 
 place of our encampment, forthe wind, which gave us 
 no inconvenience of leaving the shore, soon shifted di- 
 rectly ahead, and blew with such violence, that the 
 waves broke over the canoes, and gave us a severe 
 drenching. Immediately on leaving Detroit a canoe 
 race, and trial of skill, was witnessed between the 
 French voyageurs and the Indians, (who occupied a 
 separate canoe,) of our party, in which the expert- 
 ness and spirit of the latter, for sudden and short 
 exertions, and the superiority of the former for la- 
 bours long continued, were handsomely and clearly 
 manifested. The banks of the river present a com- 
 pact settlement along the American shore, in which 
 the succession of farm houses, orchards, and culti- 
 vated fields, is in no place interrupted by forests, or 
 even by detached copses of woods. Every thing 
 bears the appearance of having been long settled 
 and well improved. The soil is a deep, black allu- 
 vion, of the richest quality, and disclosing on the 
 water's edge, pebbles of limestone, granite, and 
 hornblende rock, mixed with silicious sand, and, in
 
 73 
 
 small quantity, with iron sand. Farms are laid out 
 with a width of only four acres in front, and extend- 
 ing eighty acres in depth, which gives a compactness 
 to the settlement that was formerly very advanta- 
 geous in defending the early settlers against the at- 
 tacks of the aborigines. The appearance of ex- 
 tensive orchards, the wind-mills which occupy every 
 prominent point along the river, the' clearness of the 
 water, the woody islands in the river, already co- 
 vered with green foliage, and the distant view of 
 Detroit, every moment receding in the landscape, 
 all served to imprint a character of mildness and 
 beauty upon the scene, which was perhaps height- 
 ened by the reflection, that it presented the last 
 glimpse of a refined population which we were for 
 some time to witness. On reaching Grosse Point, 
 we found the party, that proceeded by lane 1 , already 
 there; several of the citizens of Detroit had previous- 
 ly returned, and the rest departed in the evening. 
 
 II.* Day. — (May 2S//&.) — A strong head wind pre- 
 vented us from quitting our encampment. The 
 mean daily temperature of the air, and the water of 
 Lake St. Clair, at six inches below the surface, have 
 been equal at 51° of Fahrenheit, which is 5° low- 
 er than the mean annual temperature of the Ohio 
 at eight inches below the surface.* Large masses 
 of granite, hornblende, limestone, hornstone jasper, 
 mica slate, and quartz, are lying upon the margin of the 
 lake. The banks are alluvial, elevated about twenty 
 feet above the water, and with an undulatory surface. 
 Lake St. Clair is by far the smallest of the chain, of 
 
 * Drake's Statistical View, p. 14.
 
 76 
 
 lakes, which, by their intercommunications connect 
 Lake Superior with the river St. Lawrence. Its great- 
 est length is computed at 30 miles, by a breadth of 25 
 miles, with an inconsiderable depth, ft receives a 
 number of tributary streams, the largest of which are 
 the river Huron, from the American, and the rivers 
 Chenal Ecarte, and Thames,* from the Canadian 
 shore. The latter runs parallel with the north shore 
 of Lake Erie, for a considerable distance, and is 
 noted as the scene of General Harrison's victory 
 over the British army, on the 5th of October, 1813. 
 Considered as a decisive field battle, — as securing 
 the safety of our extensive northwestern frontier, — 
 and as breaking up a powerful Indian confederacy, in 
 the death of their celebrated leader, Tecumseh,t 
 
 • Callciwy the French, " La Riviere a la Trenche," and by the 
 aborigines, Escann-Seebe. 
 
 t This noted warrior, was first made known to the public as the 
 leader of the Indians at the battle of r l ippacanoe, (7th Nov. 1811.) 
 lie hurst suddenly into notice, but from that time, until his fall 
 upon the river Thames, the attention of the American people was 
 constantly rivetted upon him. He possessed all the energy, bra- 
 very, sagacity, and fortitude, for which the most distinguished abo- 
 riginal chiefs have been celebrated,, and the terror of his name 
 alone kept the whole line of our northwestern frontier in a con- 
 stant state of alarm. He projected every enterprize which the 
 savages executed against the whites, and took a conspicuous part 
 in ever, massacre, in every murder, and in every siege. He was 
 no less an orator, than a soldier, and by the persuasive power 
 of his eloquence formed one of the most powerful confederacies 
 which has been attempted by the Indians within the last century. 
 His watchful mind was ever on the alert, his hatred never slumber- 
 ed, and he held himself a stranger to personal fatigue. Such was 
 Tecumseh, who is reported to have fallen towards the close of 
 the battle upon the Thames, in a personal combat with Col. 
 R. M. Johnson, of Kentucky. He was a Shawanee.
 
 77 
 
 this victory may be looked upon as one of the most 
 important events of the late war. 
 
 it is gratifying to the expedition, to reflect, that 
 they are proceeding under the orders of a person, 
 whose participation in that engagement, and in the 
 general dangers and fatigues of the operations of that 
 arduous campaign, affords a pledge of that decision 
 of character, foresight, and personal courage, so ne- 
 cessary in the safe conduct of the voyage before us. 
 
 Ill Day — (May 26th.) — The wind, which contin- 
 ued unfavourable in the morning, abated about eleven 
 o'clock, when we commenced loading the canoes. 
 At twelve the Governor embarked, and we proceed- 
 ed along the southern shore of the lake, to the en- 
 trance of St. Clair river, and up that, a distance of 
 six miles where we encamped, having proceeded 
 twenty-five miles. The expedition consisted, on 
 leaving Grosse Point, of the following persons : 
 
 His Ex: Lew t is Cass, Governor of the Michigan 
 Territory. 
 
 Alexander Wolcott, M. D. Indian Agent at Chi- 
 cago, Physician to the Expedition. 
 
 Capt. David B. Douglass, Civil and Military En- 
 gineer. 
 
 Lieut. «^Eneas Mackay, 3c? Regiment U. S. Artillery, 
 commanding the soldiers. 
 
 James D. Doty, Esq. Secretary to the Expedition. 
 
 Maj. Robert A. Forsyth, Private Secretary to the 
 Governor. 
 
 Mr. Charles C. Trowbridge, Assist. Topographer. 
 
 Mr. Alexander R. Chace.
 
 78 
 
 Also, — ten Canadian voyageurs, — seven U. S. sol- 
 diers, — ten Indians of the Ottaway and Shawanee 
 tribes, an intcrpreterand aguide, making thirty-seven 
 persons exclusive of myself, and all embarked in three 
 canoes. Provisions were only taken to serve the party 
 to the island of Michilimackinac, to which place, the 
 stores, arms, Indian goods, and other principal outfits 
 had been sent by vessels in order to facilitate our 
 passage through lake Huron. The Indians occupied 
 one canoe, under the direction of an Ottaway chief. 
 The baggage and men were divided equally.' The 
 canoes were moved wholly with paddles, but a sail 
 provided to each, as well as a small standard, bear- 
 ins: the arms of the United States. Each canoe had 
 also a tent or marque, and an oil cloth, to secure 
 baggage from the effects of rain, together with the 
 necessary gum, bark, and apparatus for mending 
 canoes. Thus equipped, we took our final depart- 
 ure from Grosse Point about noon, with a double 
 feeling of pleasure, from the reflection of the termi- 
 nation of a delay, which had so early retarded our pro- 
 gress, and the anticipation of the novel and interesting 
 scenes, we were to encounter. A glow of satisfac- 
 tion, beamed on every countenance, which was 
 heightened by the serenity of the atmosphere, 
 and by the temperate warmth of the day. About 
 two o'clock, we passed the mouth of Huron river, 
 which enters behind a point of land, projecting some 
 distance into the lake, and is a stream of sixty yards 
 wide, and navigable with boats, of a small class, 
 for sixty or seventy miles. Upon this stream, stand 
 the towns of Mount Clemens and Pontiac, both re- 
 cent, and in a state of rapid improvement ; the lands 
 Upon the banks of this river, are represented as fer-
 
 79 
 
 tile and well adapted to the growth of wheat, rye, 
 and Indian corn. Its principal forest trees, are oak, 
 maple, and blackwalnut. From Point Huron, it is 
 necessary, in order to strike the mouth of St. Clair 
 river, and to save a tedious voyage around the shore, 
 to traverse across a large bay, or arm of the lake, 
 but before we had reached half the distance, the 
 wind arose and continued to blow with such vio- 
 lence, that with every exertion, little head way 
 could be made, while the waves were frequently 
 breaking across our canoes, which rendered it ne- 
 cessary for one man to be continually employed in 
 bailing out the water. It was dark before we reach- 
 ed the entrance of the river, which consists of a 
 number of channels, separated by islands partly un- 
 der water, and covered with a heavy growth of rushes, 
 reeds, and tall coarse grass, affording no advantages 
 for encampment, so that we were compelled to as- 
 cend the river to the upper end of Lawson's island, 
 a distance of two leagues where we arrived two 
 hours before midnight, wet and cold, and passed an 
 uncomfortable night. 
 
 IV. Day. — {May 26th.) — Embarked at seven o'clock 
 in the morning, and passed up the river thirty miles, 
 which brought us to Fort Gratiot, at the foot of Lake 
 Huron. The principal tributary streams of St. Clair 
 river are Belle river, and Black river, both entering 
 on the United States shore, the former at the dis- 
 tance of fourteen, and the latter at the distance of 
 two miles below Fort Gratiot. The banks of the 
 river St. Clair are handsomely elevated, and well 
 wooded with maple, beach, oak, and elm. Settle- 
 ments continue for a considerable part of the way
 
 80 
 
 on the American shore, and contribute very much to 
 the effect of a district of river scenery, which is 
 generally admired The lands are rich, and hand- 
 somely exposed to the sun. The river is broad, and 
 deep, with a gravf lly shore and transparent water, 
 and its surface is chequered with a number of the 
 most beautiful islands. Indeed, the succession of 
 interesting views, has afforded us a continued theme 
 of admiration, and we can fully unite in the remark 
 of the Baron La Hontan, who passed this strait in 
 1688, "that it is difficult to imagine a more delight- 
 ful prospect, than is presented by this strait, and the 
 little Lake St. Clair."* In ascending the river, we 
 have successively passed nine vessels at anchor, be- 
 ing detained by head winds. They were laden with 
 merchandise, military stores, and troops, for Michili- 
 mackinac, Green Bay, and Chicago. We also pas- 
 sed a number of Indian canoes, in which were gene- 
 rally one family, with their blankets, guns, fishing 
 apparatus, and dogs. On conversing with them, 
 through our interpreter, we found they belonged to 
 the Chippeway and Ottaway tribes, who are on a 
 footing of the most perfect friendship with each oth- 
 er, and with the United States. There are some 
 of these tribes permanently settled on the Canadian 
 shore of the river, which is generally in the state of 
 nature, and presents a striking contrast with the im- 
 provements on the opposite shore. The white in- 
 habitants are chiefly French, who profess the Roman 
 catholic religion. The river maintains an average 
 width of about three quarters of a mile, with a gen- 
 tle current until we approach within three miles 
 of Lake Huron, where there is a rapid in which the 
 
 # La Ilontan's Voyages, vol. I. p. S3.
 
 81 
 
 water runs with a velocity, of from six to seven 
 miles per hour. Fort Gratiot stands at the head of 
 this rapid, and commands the entrance into Lake 
 Huron. The site appears to have been judiciously 
 selected, and must always, in the event of a war, 
 command the commerce of the upper lakes, and 
 serve as a check to the incursions of the savages. So 
 important did the French formerly consider this, that 
 at a very early period the Coureurs du Bois, had 
 erected a Fort at this spot at their own expense.— 
 This was afterwards occupied by the French Go- 
 vernment, under the name of Fort St. Joseph, and fi- 
 nally abandoned and burnt by the commandant, La 
 Hontan, on the 27th August, 1688.* This measure 
 was adopted upon the occasion of a Peace, concluded 
 by the Marquis de Denonville, Governor of Canada, 
 in consequence of which, Fort Niagara had been 
 abandoned to the Iroquois. The present Fort is 
 understood to have been built about the close of the 
 late war, (1814.) It consists of a stockade inclosing 
 a magazine, barracks, and other prerequisites, calcu- 
 lated to accommodate a garrison of one battalion. 
 We found it eccupied by a company of sixty men, 
 under the command of Major Cummins, a prompt 
 officer, who under the recent order of the War De- 
 partment, is cultivating an extensive plantation and 
 kitchen garden. The expedition was received with 
 a national salute, and welcomed to the hospitality 
 and conveniences of the garrison. We here return- 
 ed two soldiers who were sickly, and received an 
 accession of five able bodied men to su; ply their 
 places. To cover any arrangements ofthi9 kind. 
 
 * La Hontan's Voyages, 
 
 11
 
 82 
 
 which the exigencies of our situation might render 
 necessary, an order had been issued by the war de- 
 partment, and transmitted by General Macomb 
 throughout the northwestern division of the army 
 to afford the expedition every necessary assistance 
 either in men, boats, or other facilities. 
 
 In passing up the river, we have constantly observ- 
 ed ducks, plovers, and snipe ; and while walking 
 along the shore had an opportunity to witness the 
 manner in which certain snakes prey upon inferior 
 reptiles. In the present instance a common green 
 snake {coluber cesiivus) had seized upon a frog and 
 succeeded in swallowing it alive, saving a small part 
 of the hinder legs, which were visible when we dis- 
 covered it. A blow at the snake was sufficient to 
 relieve the frog, which fled towards the water with- 
 out having received much apparent injury. The 
 mean temperature of the air, since leaving Detroit 
 has been 51°, that of the water, 52°.* The wind 
 has varied little from northwest, blowing at times 
 with some violence, and so as to retard our progress. 
 
 No change in the geological character of the 
 country, has been noticed, the shores of the river 
 continue alluvial, and the detached stones strewed 
 along the beach, are of the same kinds formerly men- 
 
 * Meteorological Observations on the Lake, and River St. CI > 
 
 ir 
 
 Date 
 
 A IK. 
 
 WATER. 
 
 Mean dai- 
 ly temp. 
 
 Oi >- ■••r 
 
 Mean dai- Prevail- 
 ly temp. ing 
 
 •ipr. 
 
 
 A .VI. 
 
 P. ,Vl 
 
 A M 
 
 P M. 
 
 O; i 
 
 <■ 
 
 May 84, 
 
 
 8 
 
 to 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 ■VI 
 5H 
 
 6 
 
 H 
 5 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 (ij a ]> 
 
 2 
 
 '•17 
 loll 
 
 
 
 I'd 
 
 . 1 
 
 60 
 
 ~~S3 
 
 .'. i 
 
 NVA 
 
 F r 
 
 5fi 
 53 
 
 52 
 
 X '•' . 
 
 Fair. 
 Fair. 
 
 Fair. 
 
 2tf 
 
 27 
 
 
 
 51 
 51 
 
 N W 
 N.W. 
 
 158 205 
 52<> wntiT 51" air.
 
 83 
 
 tioned, among which, hornblende and granite pre- 
 dominate : — no rock strata appear. There are some 
 tracesofiron sand along the shore. On ascending the 
 rapids between Black river and Fort Gratiot, where 
 the current washes hard against the south shore, we 
 perceive a tenaceous stratum of blue clay of fifteen 
 feet in depth, covered by a layer of sandy alluvion 
 of thrice that depth. What strikes us as particular- 
 ly deserving of attention is, a number of trees imbed- 
 ded at the point of contact between the clay and the 
 overlaying stratum of sand, and which the falling in 
 of the bank has caused to project horizontally 
 several feet over the water These trees are also 
 seen at various depths below the surface of the sand 
 bank, together with fragments of granite and lime- 
 stone ; but no such imbedded substances either ve- 
 getable or mineral, are found in the stratum of clay ! 
 Is not, therefore, the sub-stratum of sand a posterior 
 formation ? And do not the imbedded substances 
 furnish data for determining the relative geological 
 ages of the two alluvial deposites ? These conside- 
 rations lead us further to inquire into the impropriety 
 of confounding all earthy strata under the broad 
 and indistinguishable name of alluvion, and whether 
 they do not, like other mineral depositions, admit of 
 a classification according to composition, the imbed- 
 ded substances, and the order of superposition.* 
 
 * The views which I have formerly suggested with regard to 
 alluvial formations, and the light in which they have been con- 
 sidered by Professor Eaton, of Burlington College, may be seen by 
 a reference to his valuable work, entitled An Index to the Geology 
 rflhe Northern States, second edition, p. 262.
 
 84 
 
 V. Day.— (./!% 28fA.)— We left Fort Gratiot, at 
 eight o'clock in the morning. For the first half mile, 
 a strong rapid is encountered, on reaching the head 
 of which, we find ourselves on the level of Lake Hu- 
 ron, at an elevation of twenty-nine feet above Lake 
 Erie, and five hundred and eighty-nine feet above 
 the ocean.* Here the lake spreads amply before 
 us, and we shortly find the prospect, on the right, 
 bounded by an expanse of water, terminated on the 
 line of the horizon, and on the left by an alluvial 
 6hore, covered chiefly with a growth of white pine, 
 poplar, and birch, and skirted on the water's edge, 
 by a broad beach of gravel and sand. In coasting 
 along this, there is little to interest. The view of the 
 lake, which, at first, pleases by its novelty, soon be- 
 comes tiresome by its uniformity, and the eye seeks 
 in vain to relieve itself, by some rock blufl, or com- 
 manding elevation, upon the shore. One or two spe- 
 cies of duck, the plover, and a small kind of gull, 
 with white feathers and sharp pointed wings, have 
 
 * These facts are deduced from the following; estimates : 
 Fall of Detroit river, twenty miles, at six 
 
 inches per mile .... 10 feet. 
 
 Fall of St. Clair river, thirty miles, at 
 
 four inches per mile . . 10 feet. 
 
 Rapid of St. Clair river, extending three 
 
 miles 9 feet. 
 
 29 above L.Erie, 
 Elevation of Lake Erie, above the tide 
 waters of the Hudson, according to 
 the survey of the New-York Canal 
 Commissioners , 560 feet. 
 
 589
 
 •80 
 
 appeared, to variegate the scene. In landing, at one 
 or two places along the shore, we found the pebbles 
 and loose stones to consist, principally, of horn- 
 blende, granite, sienite, and limestone. Among the 
 latter, are several large masses, containing numerous 
 species of petrified remains — (concholites and erisma- 
 tolites.) The soil, after leaving the head of St. Clair 
 river, appears to degenerate, grows sandy and ste- 
 rile, and in some places marshy, and a marked dif- 
 ference in the forest trees is observable. Maples, 
 and the beech, and elm, become rare, and, in their 
 stead, we perceive pines, poplars, the birch, and the 
 hemlock We have passed several considerable 
 indentations in the shore, and other places which 
 have names known to the voyageurs, or to the In- 
 dians, but as most of them are trifling or ludicrous, 
 and I cannot conceive the bare enumeration of the 
 names of unimportant points and places, either use- 
 ful or interesting, I have omitted to record them, a 
 practice, which I purpose to adhere to, during the 
 future progress of the expedition. The Canadian 
 voyageurs, have passed the greatest part of their lives 
 along these coasts, and in scenes of hardship and 
 danger. These people are continually pointing out 
 to us places where they have formerly encamped — 
 broke their canoes — encountered difficulties with the 
 natives, or met with some other occurrence, eitlier 
 pleasant or disagreeable, which has served to imprint 
 the scene upon their memories. There is, perhaps, 
 not two miles along the whole southwestern shore 
 of Lake Huron, which is not the scene of some such 
 occurrence. It is by no means certain, however, 
 that such pointy are designated by names in univer- 
 sal use, even among themselves ; and in a country.
 
 86 
 
 where there are no permanent settlements, local ap- 
 pellations are necessarily subject to be changed, or 
 fall into disuse There are, however, certain pro- 
 minent points and features, in the topography of eve- 
 ry savage country, which are universally known by 
 established names among themselves, and deserve to 
 be perpetuated in the permanent geography of the 
 country. Such are the names of all rivers, streams, 
 bays, promontories, and mountains, which are proper 
 subjects to enrich our maps, and to employ the pen 
 of the tourist. 
 
 We progressed thirty-five miles during this day, 
 in a general course northwest, and encamped upon 
 the open beach of the lake. The wind has been 
 lightly ahead. The greatest observed heat of the 
 atmosphere, has been « r )5°; the water of Lake Huron 
 standing, at the same time, at 58°. 
 
 VI. Day. — (May 29th.) — In passing along the mar- 
 gin of the lake, for a distance of thirty miles, little 
 diversity in the natural appearances of the country, 
 has been presented. At the distance of about fif- 
 teen miles beyond our encampment of the twenty- 
 eighth, the shore of the lake assumes an elevation 
 of thirty or forty feet, terminating in a perpendicu- 
 lar bank at the water's edge, which continues six or 
 eight miles. While passing along this cost, at the 
 distance of one or two miles, it was difficult to de- 
 termine, even with the aid of an excellent magnify- 
 ing glass, whether this bank consised of a ledge 
 of rocks, or a stratum of compact clay. Its dark 
 colour led us to suppose it was bituminous slate, 
 fragments of which had been observed upon the 
 shore, at no great distance beyond the point of its
 
 87 
 
 termination ; but this doubt was satisfactorily solved 
 upon our return, when that part of the shore was 
 found to consist of a stratum of dark tenacious blue 
 clay, the colour of which was rendered more intense, 
 by the dashing of the waves against the foot of the 
 bank, and which thus kept it continually wetted, for 
 eight or ten feet above the common level of the wa- 
 ter A few miles beyond the termination of this clay 
 bank, (about fifty-five miles above Fort Gratiot,) we 
 passed the White Rock, an enormous detached mass 
 of transition* limestone, standing in the lake, at the 
 distance of half a mile from the shore. This is an 
 
 * Notwithstanding the objections which have been urged against 
 this class of rocks, by Greenough, Maccullough, and other iate g:e- 
 olosrical writers, I find it necessary to employ the term " transi- 
 tion," as a generic for those rocks, which possess characters in- 
 termediate between the floetz and the primary strata. Of this in- 
 termediate character, the White Rock of Lake Huron, presents an 
 example, which is the more worthy of remark, as the entire mass 
 appears to be unconnected with any continuous stratum, and with 
 respect to original position, is out of place. I shall not here 
 stop to enquire, by what means it has been transported into a re- 
 gion, to which it appears foreign. The limits of this note will 
 barely permit me to mention the fact of its apparent translation 
 from its original and parent bed A glympse of the recent frac- 
 ture is sufficient to satisfy us, that it is not a secondary rock, while 
 the crystalline and granular structure, and the absence of organic 
 reliqua, appear equally conclusive, of its primary character. In the 
 ha>te of the moment, we had, therefore, referred it to the class 
 of primitive limestone ; but a recent examination of the specimens 
 we procured, shews, that the crystallization is not perfect, and 
 the fracture discloses numerous small cavities, which have not been 
 observed in the alpine limestone. It will not bear a comparison 
 with any specimens of well characterized granular limestone irt 
 my possession ; but the most conclusive circumstance, is a petri- 
 fied madrepore, recently noticed in one of the specimens. What, 
 therefore, is neither decidedly primordial, or floetzose, we must 
 be permitted still to consider, " transition,"
 
 88 
 
 object looked upon as a kind of mile-stone by the 
 voyageurs, and is known to all canoe and boat travel- 
 lers of the region. It has already found a place up- 
 on some maps. The White Rock is an object which 
 had attracted the early notice of the Indians, who 
 are the first to observe the non-conformities in the 
 appearances of a country ; and it continues to be 
 one of the places at which offerings are made. 
 How far these offerings are to be considered as par- 
 taking of the nature of religious worship, will admit 
 of great diversity of opinion. We have heard much 
 speculation concerning the religion of the Indians, 
 and the subject has recently called forth the talents 
 and research of a very interesting writer,* but the 
 want of opportunities of personal observation, has 
 led him into some conclusions, which we do not think 
 warranted by the existing state of society among 
 the northern Indians. In the true acceptation of the 
 term, the Indians have no religion ; but they believe 
 in the existence of a great invisible spirit, who re- 
 sides in the region of the clouds, and by means of in- 
 ferior spirits, throughout every part of the earth. It 
 is not ascertained, however, that they acknowledge 
 the gift of life from this spirit, or pay him the homage 
 of religious adoration. Manitorf in the Indian lan- 
 
 * Dr. J.irvis. See the Annual Discourse before the New- York 
 Historical Society, 1819- 
 
 f This word is employed to signify the same thing, by all the 
 tribes extending from the Arkansaw to the sources of the Missis- 
 sippi ; and, according to Mackenzie, throughout the arctic regions. 
 It may, with many others, (the collec tion of which would form 
 the subject of a very interesting work,) be quoted to strengthen 
 an opinion, for which there appears ample grounds, that the 
 erratic tribes, of the northwestern region, and of the valley
 
 89 
 
 guage, signifies " spirit." They have good and bad 
 manitoes ; great and small manitoes ; a manito 
 for every cave, water-fall, or other commanding ob= 
 ject in nature, and generally make offerings a! such 
 places. These tributary acknowledgments, howev- 
 er, we have observed, are such things as, in their 
 nature, are perfectly useless to the savages ; — a 
 broken gun barrel, a pair of old mockasins or leggins, 
 a broken paddle, or other useless or trifling article. 
 Small bits of carrot tobacco are the only valu- 
 able offering we have observed, but they never leave 
 a silver arm band, a beaver skin, a knife, a hatchet, 
 or other substance of utility. Neither is there that 
 solemnity observed in making these deposites which 
 lias been represented; — nor does there appear to be 
 any obligation upon individuals to make them, or to 
 ren°w them, at any regular periods. The thing ap» 
 
 of the Mississippi, are all descendants from one stock, which is 
 presumed to have progressed from the north towards the south ? 
 scattering into different tribes, and falling: from the purity of a lan- 
 guage, that may have originally been rich and copious. Among 
 those who are disposed to make great allowance?, for the corrup- 
 tions that have crept into the languages of the aborigines of Ame- 
 rica, we find the most celebrated traveller of the age. ''What 
 some learned writers have asserted, from abstract theories, respect- 
 ing the pretended poverty of the American languages, and the ex- 
 treme imperfection of their numerical system, is as doubtful as the 
 assertions which have been made respecting the weakness and 
 stupidity of the human race, throughout the new continent — the 
 stunted growth of animated nature, and the degeneration of those 
 animals, which have been transported from one hemisphere to the 
 other. Several idioms, which now firm the language of barba- 
 rous nations only, seem to be wrecks of languages, once rich, flex- 
 ible, and belonging to a more cultivated state." — Humboldt's Re- 
 searches, vol. I. p. 20. 
 
 12
 
 'JO 
 
 pears entirely optional, and is often accidental. Of- 
 fering* are made when they happen to pass by any 
 scene capable of exciting wonder; but they seldom, 
 if ever, undertake journies to perform them. Their 
 bad manitoes answer to our Devil, but I have not 
 learned, that their bad manitoes are considered to 
 be subservient to one great bad manito. Neither 
 do I know, that the connexion existing between the 
 good man toes, from the most inferior up to the 
 great spirit, is precisely what I have stated it to be, 
 or that there is any fixed and uniform understan ing 
 among them respecting it; but my impression is, that 
 an understanding of this kind is universal. 
 
 All are more or less superstitious, and believe in 
 miraculous transformations, ghosts, and witchcraft. 
 They have jugglers and prophets, who predict 
 events, who interpret dreams, and who perform in- 
 cantations and mummeries. Great solemnity is ob- 
 served on occasions of this kind, when men and wo- 
 men are ceremoniously arranged around the walls of 
 a cabin appropriated to these mysteries, and while 
 they alternately assist in the performance of a round 
 of unintelligible ceremonies, the spectator finds a 
 difficulty in restraining his laughter. A magic rod 
 suddenly darted at the person who is the subject of 
 operation, causes him to fall as if struck dead. A 
 whiff from a tobacco pipe communicates new spirit 
 to him, and he arises reinstated in his former health 
 of body or mind. The most remarkable of these eer- 
 errionies. is called the medicine dance, where all 
 sorts of bodily ailments, are affected to be cured; 
 and persons if) the last stages of existence are some- 
 times brought out to undergo these ceremonies, wh<?>
 
 91 
 
 die while they are performing. Yet their faith is not 
 destroyed ; it is considered the signal interposition 
 of some bad spirit who has prevented the operation 
 of the medicine, that is, the ceremony, for physical aids 
 are not relied upon in these cases; and if one in ten 
 who have been subjects of operation, recover, the 
 success in that case is alone dwelt upon, and the nine 
 unsuccessful ones disregarded. Such is the religion, 
 — the superstition, and the knowledge of medicine 
 of the lake savages, blended as they appear. It is 
 difficult to separate them, and to say how much 
 may be considered religious, or mere mummery. 
 Much allowance, however, is to be made on account 
 of our ignorance ot their languages, — on account of 
 bad interpretation, and the unfavourable sentiments 
 we may entertain from early prejudices, or from 
 other causes, which are apt to influence our opin- 
 ions and views. 
 
 As to the success which has attended the attempts 
 to introduce Christianity among them, it is difficult 
 to perceive, that any material change has been 
 worked among the tribes so remote. The French 
 Missionaries were the most successful, particularly 
 with the Hurons, and many of the Indians still retain 
 some of the signs and symbols of the Catholic reli- 
 gion. Silver crosses delivered to them a century 
 ago by Jesuit priests are still preserved and worn, 
 and they profess a great veneration for them. This 
 religion, striking as it has always appeared to the il- 
 literate and vulgar, by its splendid ceremonies and 
 external signs, appears to have presented great at- 
 tractions for the Indians. They do not appear, how* 
 ever, to retain any notions of the doctrines taught,
 
 92 
 
 and so far ns 1 have been able to learn, do not wish to 
 be disturbed by tbe introduction of any religion,- pre-* 
 fering, in their emphatic language "to follow the re- 
 ligion of their fathers." They may not, however, be the 
 proper judges in this casf, and it requires the atten- 
 tion and perseverance of christians and religious so- 
 cieties to effect a moral reform among them. Of the 
 feasibility of well directed efforts, there can be no 
 doubt; but hitherto the little attention which has 
 been bestowed upon them, seems to have reached 
 them through missionaries badly selected for the 
 task. The savage mind, habituated to sloth, is not 
 easily roused into a state of moral activity, and is not 
 at once capable of embracing and understanding 
 the sublime truths and doctrines of the evangelical 
 law. It is necessary that letters, arts, and religion 
 should go hand in hand. It is probable, also, that 
 a plainer and more familiar mode of explanation than 
 that commonly practised in refined society, would be 
 found productive of its advantages, at least, in the 
 commencement of moral and religious instruction. 
 
 On embarking this morning we had the wind light- 
 ly ahead, which continued during the forenoon, but 
 changed so that we were able to make use of our sails 
 in the afternoon. About four o'clock the weather 
 became cloudy and hazy, and the wind increased 
 in violence, attended by thunder. A storm was has- 
 tily gathering, and the lake became so much agita- 
 ted that it was thought prudent to land and encamp. 
 We effected a landing, with some difficulty, on a very 
 shallow shore, and dangerous from the number of de- 
 tached stones projecting above the water, or mere- 
 ly hid beneath it; and pitched our tents on a narrow
 
 93 
 
 neck of land nearly separated from the main shore, 
 and covered with a beautiful growth of forest trees. 
 Shortly after our arrival at this place a vessel hove 
 in sight, and afterwards came to anchor within half 
 a mile of the land, the wind blowing a gale ashore. 
 Y\ e were apprehensive the vessel would be driven 
 from her mooring, but the night passed without ac- 
 cident. In the course ofthedaywe passed several 
 canoes of Indians, and uniformly found them in want 
 of provisions. 
 
 VII. Day — (May 30th.) — Detained by unfavoura- 
 ble winds. The shore of the lake is strewed 
 with water worn masses of rocks of the same kinds 
 already mentioned, and we still find granite and horn- 
 blende to predominate. No rock has, however, yet 
 appeared in situ. The lands adjoining our encamp- 
 ment, are generally low and swampy, and the forest 
 consists of hemlock, birch, ash, oak, and some maple. 
 Among the plants the convallaria augustifolia, and a 
 species of Indian Brassica, have been noticed. The 
 margin of the lake is skirted with bull-rushes, quake 
 grass, (briza canadensis,) and other aquatic plants. 
 The greatest observed heat of the air has been 53°, 
 wind N. E. 
 
 VIII. Day.— (May 31**.)— Still detained by head 
 winds. In loitering along the shore ofthelake,examin- 
 ingthe loose stones, Idiscovered inadetachedblockof 
 mica slate, several large and well defined crystals of 
 staurotide,* of a dark reddish brown colour, moderate 
 
 * To prevent a rrisapprehension arising fr)m the variety of 
 names which have been applied by mineralogists to the same sub-
 
 91 
 
 hardness, and perfectly opaque. Near the same- 
 spot a number of petrifactions {cetteporites and mad re- 
 porites,) were observed in the detached fragments of 
 limestone, found along the coast ; but what excited a 
 particular interest, was a large block of granitic 
 rock imbedding globular pebbles of hornblende. 
 This rock, as being a quarternaiy compound of feld- 
 spa r, quartz, mica, and hornblende, would be consider- 
 ed a granilUe according to the suggestions of Kirwan. 
 The masses of hornblende, which are in most in- 
 stances pure and unmixed, in others contain feld- 
 spar and quartz, thus indicating a transition of one 
 substance into the other which does not admit of a 
 ready explanation. Will the present state of mine- 
 ralogical science, justify us in considering this sub- 
 stance as a primitive breccia ? or is it a granitic 
 porphyry ? 
 
 stance, an introduction of synonomies has become necessary in 
 all elementary works on mineralogy ; nor does it appear less re- 
 quisite in books of general information, which are often read by 
 tlmse whose business or leisure does not permit a reference to ele- 
 mentary treatises. It must moreover, be considered a fault in eve- 
 ry hook, which compels its readers to hunt over scarce or voluminous 
 works for insulated facts, which are the only parts of such works, 
 that happen at the time, to interest them. I shall, therefore, perhaps 
 accumulate a body of notes, which will not recommend this narrative 
 to readers of a certain class, but I shall aim to introduce no more 
 than appears to me necessary to a correct understanding of the 
 subjects brought into view. In the present instance I have follow- 
 ed Cleavelarfd in designating a certain crystalline combination of 
 alu::;ii;'. , t-ilex, and oxide of iron, staurotide. The same substance is 
 called Grqnatit by Werner, and Grenafite by Jameson and Bro- 
 ehant. An analysis of this mineral, by Klaproth, gave alumine 
 52.25, silex 27, oxide of iron 18.50, oxide of manganese 0.2 5. =9 8.
 
 9b 
 
 IX. Day. — (June 1st.) — The wind abating, we em- 
 barked this morning at six o'clock, but on proceed- 
 ing about one league, it again arose to such a pitch, 
 that it became necessary to effect a speedy landing. 
 Such are the delays to which our voyage is contin- 
 ually exposed. Shortly after landing the Indians 
 were sent into the woods in quest of game, and a par- 
 ty of soldiers and engagees went to an adjacent riv- 
 er for the purpose of fishing, but after an absence of 
 four or five hours, both parties returned without 
 success. In the mean time, the agitation of the lake 
 had ceased, and the wind sprung up in our favour; 
 we, therefore, embarked again at three in the after- 
 noon, and proceeded under sail to Saganaw Bay, a 
 distance of twenty-five miles, where we encamped 
 after twilight, having successively passed Elm creek, 
 Black river, and Point aux Barques, — the latter form- 
 ing the southeastern cape of Saganaw Bay. 
 
 At the distance of a league before reaching Point 
 aux Barques, we perceive the first stratum of rock 
 in situ, which consists of a secondary sandstone ofa 
 greyish white colour and very friable texture. It 
 forms a horizontal ledge of from ten to twenty feet in 
 height, immediately upon the lake shore, but the 
 continuity of the stratum is interrupted by small bays 
 and inlets, worn into the rock by the violence of the 
 storms and tempests, which prevailing from the north, 
 have an uninterrupted sweep from the Straits of St. 
 Mary, across the widest part of the lake, until they 
 are opposed by the perishable sand-tone of Point aux 
 Barques. Here the waves beat with the utmost fury, 
 and by prostrating the opposing barrier iito heaps of 
 sand, have manifestly extended the dominions of the
 
 '9t> 
 
 lake, while the winds have heaped the disintegrated 
 ruins into vast sand hills and ridges, that skirt the 
 borders of the lake, and exhibit all the fanciful forms 
 which a tempest is capable of communicating to the 
 drifting sands of the ocean. These ridges are now 
 covered with a growth of the pitch pine, the Ameri- 
 can aspen, and the pyrola rotundifolia; — productions, 
 which delight to grow upon the most sterile sand 
 banks. Insulated masses of the rock covered with 
 forest trees, form several islands in the lake along this 
 coast at the distances of o. f, e, and two miles, and b\ 
 the perfect similarity of the stone, — its horizontal po- 
 sition, and other geological correspondences re- 
 main as the monuments of their former connexion 
 with the main land. These operations give to this 
 part of the lake, and particularly to the outer 
 shores of Saganaw Bay, a broad beach of sand 
 intervening between the woods and the water, 
 which affords innumerable harbours for encamp- 
 ing, and one of the safest shores for boat and ca- 
 noe navigation. The frailty of these vessels is not 
 here threatened by those hidden blocks of granite 
 and other primary stones, which we have found so 
 very annoying along the coast between Fort Gratiot 
 and Point aux Barques, — for with the commencement 
 of the sand rock, and sand beaches, these substances 
 have entirely disappeared. If, as along other parts 
 of this lake, these detached masses of primary for- 
 mation, once lined the shores of Saganaw Bay and 
 the adjacent coast, the subsequent inroad of the lake 
 upon the main shore, has left them at the bottom of 
 the water at the distance of a mile or two off land.
 
 97 
 
 As the sand stone of Point aux Barques, has no over- 
 laying stratum of rock, and the water prevents us 
 from ascertaining that upon which it rests, some 
 difficulty would arise in pointing out its geological 
 character, were it not indicated by the organic re- 
 mains (erismatolites) which we find in a state of 
 petrifaction, in the most compact parts of it. 
 
 Saganaw Bay is by far the largest of the numerous 
 inlets which serve to indent the very irregular shores 
 of Lake Huron. It is computed to be sixty miles in 
 depth, and thirty in width, and has a number of 
 small islands, the most considerable of which is 
 Shawangunk Island, situated nearly in its centre. 
 The navigation is safe for vessels of any burden, and 
 its numerous coves and islands, present some of the 
 best harbours in the lake. At its southern extremity 
 it receives Saganaw river, a large and deep stream 
 with bold shores, and made up of a great number of 
 tributaries, which irrigate an extensive country, 
 reputed to be one of the most fertile and delightful 
 in the Territory of Michigan. The banks of this 
 stream are now inhabited by detached bands of Chip- 
 peway and Ottaway Indians,* who have long enjoyed 
 the advantages of an easy subsistance, from the fine 
 hunting grounds in that vicinity, and the abundance 
 of fish afforded by the bay and other tributary wa- 
 ters. These lands have recently been disposed of 
 
 * It is understood that the northern missionary society of the 
 city of Albany are about to establish a missionary family upon 
 some of the tributary streams of Saganaw river, and that an agent 
 has been sent out to explore the country, and to report upon the 
 feasibility of the design. 
 
 13
 
 98 
 
 to the United States government, and will shortly be 
 thrown into market. From the terms ot high admi- 
 ration of which all continue to speak of the riches of 
 the soil, and the natural beauty of the country, and 
 its central and advantageous position for business, 
 we are !^d to suppose that it presents uncommon in- 
 citement? to enterprising and industrious farmers and 
 mechanics. 
 
 X. Day — [Jane 2d.) — In order to cross Saganaw 
 Bay with safety in a canoe, it is necessary to pass up 
 the eastern shore from Point aux Barques to Point 
 aux Chenes, a distance of eighteen miles. Here, if 
 the lake be calm, the voyageur crosses by a stretch 
 of twenty miles to the opposite shore, with the advan- 
 tage of landing on the island ofShawangunk, should a 
 storm overtake him in the centre of the Bay, which 
 is frequently the case. On gaining the opposite 
 shore, it is necessary to pass down the bay about 
 the same distance that was formerly ascended, be- 
 fore the open lake is again reached. The entire 
 crossing can easily be performed in one day if the 
 weather is favourable, but this does not always hap- 
 pen, and the fatal accidents that have formerly be- 
 fallen those who were too venturesome, have opera- 
 ted as a severe caution to voyageurs and canoe-tra- 
 vellers of the present day. so that it is difficult to in- 
 duce the former to attempt it, unless the weather be 
 perfectly clear and the bay calm. Fortunately, we 
 were not detained by these causes, and effected the 
 crossing and re-entry ofthe lake at so seasonable an 
 hour, that we were allowed time to proceed two 
 leagues beyond, and encamped at the mouth of the
 
 99 
 
 nver aux Sables, making an entire distance of fifty-sis. 
 miles. In crossing the bay we landed a few moments 
 upon Shawangunk island which is found to be based 
 upon compact limestone, and contains imbedded 
 masses of Chalcedony, and calcareous spar. 1 also 
 picked up, during the short period we remained, a 
 lump of the argillaceous oxyd of iron, and some de- 
 tached fragments of a coarse striped jasper. These 
 discoveries created a strong desire to make a geolo- 
 gical survey of the island, but we were prevented 
 from attempting it, by the necessity of an expeditious 
 progress across the bay while the weather favoured. 
 On reaching the river aux Sables, we found a number 
 of Chippeway Indians upon the shore, and a perma- 
 nent village at the distance of tuo miles above its dis- 
 charge. They appeared friendly, and as soon as 
 our tents were pitched came formally to the Govern- 
 or's marque. A chief of the Chippeways then ad- 
 dressed the Governor in a speech in which he told 
 him that he was glad to see him there — that he had 
 heard of his coming — and hoped he would see, and 
 relieve their wants, &c. The pipe of peace was then 
 smoked in the usual style of Indian ceremony, by 
 handing it to all present, each one taking a whiff, 
 which is all that is required : when this ceremony 
 was ended, they commenced that of shaking hands,* 
 
 * The practice of shaking hands we afterwards found universal 
 among the northwestern tribes, but were unable to ascertain 
 whether it is an ancient custom, or has been introduced by their 
 intercourse with Europeans. To ascertain that a custom so an- 
 cient and so universal in the Old World, and which is one of the 
 most striking characteristics of civilized nations, was also preva- 
 lent among the aborigines of America, at the period of its discov-
 
 100 
 
 beginning with the Governor, and passing round in a 
 circle to each individual composing his suite. They 
 afterwards presented some fresh sturgeon (accipcnser) 
 which are caught in abundance in that river, and re- 
 ceived in return some tobacco and whiskey, and then 
 departed to their villages. We were anxious to wit- 
 ness how our Indians, on first landing, would conduct 
 themselves towards those of the river aux Sables, 
 and whether they would demonstrate any feeling of 
 joy or satisfaction upon the interview, and were some- 
 what disappointed to see a total indifference, or re- 
 serve, maintained. They appeared neither to see, 
 or know each other, nor could we learn that any fa- 
 miliarity ensued between them during our stay at 
 that place. Nothing appeared to give them so much 
 satisfaction as the whiskey they received, and when 
 it was drank they presented a request for more. We 
 have since observed, that the passion for drinking 
 spirits is as common to the tribes of this region, as it 
 is to the remnants^of the Iroquois, inhabiting the wes- 
 tern parts of New-York. To procure it they will 
 part with any thing at their disposal, and if they 
 have no furs or dried venison to exchange, they will 
 sell their silver ornaments, their guns, and even parts 
 of their dress. They generally become intoxicated 
 whenever an opportunity is presented, and a trader 
 or traveller can present nothing which is of half so 
 much value in their estimation. We have generally 
 
 ery, would establish a coincidence of the most important nature. 
 But the period for making: this observation has long gone by. — 
 There are probably, no tribes now in America, who have not 
 some knowledge of Europeans, or their American descendants.
 
 101 
 
 found it the first, and the Inst thing enquired for. It 
 appears this habit was contracted at an early period 
 by the lake Indians, and the anecdote* that Charle- 
 voix relates of an intoxicated Indian, is a proof that 
 it was common in his time. It is due, however, to the 
 tribes of Lake Superior, and die heads of the Mis- 
 sissippi, to say, that we tound them far less eager for 
 whiskey than the more contiguous tribes, and that 
 cases were presented, in which it was not relished. 
 
 XI. Day. — {June 3c?.) — The distance from the river 
 aux Sables to Thunder Bay,* is forty miles, reck n~ 
 ingto the island, — thence to Flat Rock Point, called 
 by heChippeways, Sho-she-ko-naw-be-ko-king. eight 
 miles. These form the extreme points of our jour- 
 ney during this day. After leaving the aux Sables 
 five or six miles, a ridge of highland appears visible 
 from the lake, at some distance back, and continues 
 in a general direction north northwest, which is that 
 of the lake coast, to Thunder Pay, and then bears fur- 
 ther west, and becomes invisible. In crossing Thun- 
 der Bay, we halted at an island which lies in the 
 track of the usual traverse, for a short time, and 
 while there, observed a kind of Indian altar erected 
 beneath a tree near the water's edge. This consists 
 
 *" An Ottawa} 7 } called John Le Blanc, who was a bad chris- 
 tian and a great drunkard, on bein^; asked by the Count De Fron- 
 tenac, what he thought the brandy of which he was so fond, was 
 made of, he said of tongues and heart?, for, added he, after I have 
 drank of it I fear nothing, and I talk like an angel." — Charlevoix's 
 Journal, vol. IF. p. 83. 
 
 * VAn.se, du Twiner e, of the old French writers.
 
 102 
 
 of a block of quartzy granite, worn, apparently by 
 the water, into a columnar shape, terminated by a 
 kind of cornice, and on account of its remarkable 
 shape and appearance, had probably been carried 
 from the water's edge and set up at that spot. It is 
 probable also that this column of granite is dedicated 
 to one of their numerous local gods or manitoes, 
 and that he is supplicated for prosperous voyages 
 across the Bay. 
 
 What has been so often reiterated, as to the high- 
 ly electrified state of the atmosphere at this Bay, 
 seems to have no foundation in truth. There is no- 
 thing in the appearance of the surrounding country, — 
 in the proximity of mountains, — or the currents of 
 the atmosphere, to justify a belief that the air con- 
 tains a surcharge of the electric fluid. In no place 
 does the coast attain a sufficient altitude to allow us 
 to suppose that it can exert any sensible influence 
 upon the clouds, nor is it known that any mineral 
 exhalations are given out in this vicinity, as has been 
 suggested, capable of conducing towards a state of 
 electrical irritability in the atmosphere. From the 
 northwest cape of Saganaw Bay. to the vicinity of 
 Flat-Rock-Point, we find the shore of the lake an 
 alluvial bank, edged with a beach of sand, with 
 masses of primary and floetzose rocks, sparingly scat- 
 tered along the shore, or projecting above the wa- 
 ter. In no instance do the rock strata jut out along 
 the shore, until we reach Thunder Bay, and here 
 they are not elevated more than two or three feet 
 above the level of the water, but generally very 
 much shattered by the violence of the storms, so as 
 rather to present a bed of rubbish, than a ledge of 
 rock. This rock, where it can be examined, is a
 
 103 
 
 compact limestone, abounding in petrified remains, 
 and is seen, although the stratum is occasionally inter- 
 rupted, from Thunder Bay to! ^hoshe-Konawbekokiug^ 
 the site of our present encampment, where the num- 
 ber and variety of reliquse, the perfect state of pe- 
 trifaction they present, and the facility with which 
 they are disengaged from the rock, are very surpris- 
 ing.* 
 
 XII. Day. — (June 4/^.)We embarked at six o'clock, 
 but after proceeding about a league were driven 
 ashore by a thunder storm, which suddenly arose, 
 attended with a violent wind and rain. In the course 
 of a few hours the storm abated, and we again took 
 the lake, but a renewal of the storm, on going seven 
 or eight miles, again compelled us to the shore, 
 where we were detained during the remainder of 
 the day. A noted island of Lake Huron, called 
 The .Middle Island, now bears from our encampment 
 due north, and is distant six or eight miles from the 
 shore. This island affords a shelter to vessels en- 
 
 * A mong; these relics, we find various species of concholites, eris- 
 matolitesj and helmintholites. We particularly recognize the cornu- 
 madreporite, the conite, and the cellepnrite; and the ivrnu-ammon- 
 itt . which has so often been mistaken for the petrified snake, is 
 found abundantly along: this part of the coast. Many of these 
 relics have already been noticed in the floetz rocks of the United 
 States, particularly by Dr Drake, in the valley of the Ohio, by Mr. 
 Eaton, in the valley «<f the Hudson, and by J G. Bogert, Esq. 
 along; the southern shore of Lake Ontario, and it is believed an 
 increased attention to the subject, is all that is required to r- uder 
 our Fossil Zoology, as rich as that of any other country Geolo- 
 gists have yet to learn, however, that the jle&hy part of snakes or 
 other amphibious animals, has ever been discovered in a slate of 
 petrifaction J
 
 104 
 
 gag?d in the lake trade, and is occasionally resorted 
 to by canoe-travellers. 
 
 XIII. Day. — (June 5th.) The wind still conti- 
 nuing ahead, it was concluded to send the canoes 
 along the shore, with the soldiers and voyageurs, 
 while the remainder of the party proceeded on foot. 
 At ten o'clock we reached Presque Isle, and carried 
 our canoes and baggage across the pottage, which 
 is about two hundred yards, over a low sandy neck 
 of land, connecting the peninsula with the main 
 shore. By this portage, we save a voyage of six or 
 eight miles around a point of land which projects, at 
 this place, into the lake. On reaching the head of 
 the portage, we found that the wind had increased 
 to such a degree as to render it impossible to pro- 
 ceed, and we encamped upon the sand. Here our 
 Indians brought in a brown rabbit,* a species of wa- 
 ter turtle, and some pigeons ; being the only success 
 met with in hunting since leaving Detroit, with the 
 exception of a partridge, (a species of grouse,) killed 
 a few days previous. It is not to be inferred, how- 
 ever, that the country is destitute of game, or the sa- 
 vages lack skill in hunting it, but the plentiful sup- 
 ply of provisions which they have derived from the 
 
 * This is presumed to be a variety of the American Hare, of 
 zoologists, and may be distinguished by the following characters : 
 Body about eighteen inches long,— colour of the hair greyish- 
 brown on the back, — jrreyi*h-white beneath — neck and body 
 rusty and cinereous, — legs pale rust colour, — tail short* brown 
 above, white beneath — hind legs longest, and callous a short dis- 
 tance from the paws up. — ears tipped with black, — covering of 
 the body, rusty fur, beneath long coarse hair, — probable weight 
 six pounds.
 
 105 
 
 home-stock of the expedition, takes away much of 
 the usual incitements to hunting, while either the ra- 
 pidity of our movements, or the momentary expecta- 
 tion of re-embarking, while detained by head winds, 
 has prevented them from straying any considerable 
 distance from camp. In these short excursions, they 
 have frequently observed the tracks of the deer, and 
 black bear, too of the largest animals now remaining 
 in the forests along Lake Huron. Circumstances 
 have been equally unpropitious in their attempts up- 
 on the ducks, and other aquatic birds, which have 
 occasionally, although not in large flocks, been seen 
 along the shores ; for the noise occasioned by our 
 paddles has served to alarm them long before we 
 could approach within shooting distance. 
 
 At five o'clock in the evening the wind abated, and 
 we left Presque Isle with the design of continuing 
 in our canoes ail night, but at eleven o'clock the 
 wind had freshened to such a degree, and the night 
 become so dark, (hat we were compelled to encamp, 
 after having gone about twenty miles. 
 
 XIV. Day. — {June 6th.) — From the place of our en- 
 campment on the 5th, to the island of Michilimack- 
 inac, is computed at fifty-two miles. Our ardent de- 
 sire of reaching that place, and the spirit manifested 
 among the voyageurs, on seeing themselves within a 
 day's journey of it, produced a very early embarka- 
 tion, and notwithstanding a moderate head wind, we 
 advanced against the current at the rate of five miles 
 per hour, and entered the harbour of the northwest- 
 ern metropolis at four o'clock in the afternoon. The 
 intermediate shore of Lake Huron, presents no 
 change of character worthy of remark ; the same 
 
 14
 
 105 
 
 kind of soil, the same trees, the same rock strata and 
 pebbly shore, and the same unvaried expanse of wa- 
 ter towards the north, serve to imprint a character 
 of uniformity upon the scene. Among the forest 
 trees, pine, hemlock, and spruce predominate, mixed 
 with some maple, oak, birch, and poplar. No bluffs 
 appear along the shore, but the rock, where appa- 
 rent, is a compact limestone with organic remains. 
 Fragments of hornblende, granite, breccia, and trap, 
 all very much water worn, and not in place, continue 
 along the shore. On approaching within four leagues 
 of Michilimackinac, we perceive ourselves opposite 
 the foot of the island of l-ois Blanc, which is about 
 ten miles in length, and takes its name from the Lirio- 
 dendron tulipifera by which it is in a great part cov- 
 ered. It is here necessary to cross over a channel 
 of three or four miles in width to the island, and to 
 pass up around its southern margin to its northwest- 
 ern extremity. We accomplished this part of the 
 voyage with great labour, and at some hazard ; the 
 lake being so much agitated as frequently to throw 
 the waves into our canoes. In passing around the 
 southwestern curve of the island of Bois Blanc, we 
 leave the site of old Michilimackinac, and the en- 
 trance into lake Michigan, on our left, and it is here 
 that the island of Michilimackinac first bursts upon 
 the view. JNothing can present a more picturesque 
 or refreshing spectacle to the traveller, wearied with 
 the lifeless monotony of a canoe voyage through 
 Lake Huron, than the first sight of the island of Mi- 
 chilimackinac, which rises from the watery horizon 
 in lofty bluifs imprinting a rugged outline along the 
 sky, and capped with two fortresses on which the 
 American standard is seen conspicuously displayed.
 
 107 ' 
 
 A compact town stretches along the narrow plain 
 below the hills, and a beautiful harbour chec- 
 quered with American vessels at anchor, and Indian 
 canoes rapidly shooting across the water in every 
 direction. There is no previous elevation of coast 
 to prepare us for encountering the view of an island 
 elevated more than three hundred feet above the wa- 
 ter, and towering ink broken peaks which would 
 even present attractions to the eye of the solitarv tra- 
 veller, among the romantic and sublime scenes of the 
 wilderness of Arkansaw. Independent of its imposing 
 features, and its pleasing novelty, we feel an inexpres- 
 sible degree of delight, after traversing an Indian wil- 
 derness of nearly four hundred miles in extent, to find 
 ourselves once more approaching the seat of a civil- 
 ized population, with all its concomitant blessings. It 
 can only be known to those who have traversed sa- 
 vage regions — who have subsisted long without the 
 most common conveniencies of life — with what feel- 
 ings the traveller approaches scenes, where, even 
 for a few days, he is to renew former modes of living, 
 and to partake of the advantages of a refined socie- 
 ty. At an intermediate distance between Bois Blanc 
 and Michilimackinac, lies Round Island, a well 
 timbered islet, that serves to land-lock the harbour 
 of Michilimackinac, which we immediately entered, 
 on clearing the northern cape of this island, and en- 
 camped on the narrow plain below the fort, and in 
 the immediate vicinity of the town. The expedition 
 was received with a national salute from the garri- 
 son, and we landed amid the congratulations of a 
 number of the citizens who had assembled on our ar- 
 rival. Thus terminates the first part of our journey, 
 after a tedious voyage oi fourteen days, in which we
 
 108 
 
 have encountered an almost continual head wind, 
 with showers of rain, and very little weather that 
 can be considered as warm for the season, the high- 
 est point at which the thermometer has been observ- 
 ed being 70°, and the mean daily temperature 51°.* 
 We have also found the natural history of the coun- 
 try, less interesting in the main, than was expected ; 
 and the scenery has not been sufficiently diversified 
 to keep up a general interest. Particular scenes 
 have attracted admiration, but it has arisen wholly 
 from the mildness and beauty of their outlines, and 
 the pleasing effect of the water ; and not from any 
 features of boldness or sublimity. The islands 
 along the shore, have served to give relief to the 
 eye, when often there was nothing else to excite an 
 interest. The quadrupeds, the birds, and the plants, 
 would furnish very interesting objects to the land 
 traveller, but can only be glanced at by the hasty 
 voyageur. The chalcedony of Shawangunk, and 
 the staurotide procured near Elm creek, are the 
 principal substances that reward a mineralogical 
 search of the shores. It is the geology of the region 
 only that sustains a general interest, and promises a 
 rich reward, and we have been enabled to make 
 
 * Meteorological Observations on Lake Huron. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Air. 
 
 Water. 
 
 Mean 
 
 MeanPrcvail- 
 temp.' injr 
 
 L. Huron 
 1820. 
 
 May 28th. 
 
 " " 29th~ 
 " 30th] 
 " 31~sf. 
 
 A.M. | P. M. 
 
 A. M. 1 P M. 
 
 <>fwat 
 
 56 
 59 
 
 6 
 
 8,10 12 2| 4 
 
 54 ~|«;~| 
 
 44' |70 
 
 6 8 
 ~ 41 
 
 6 
 
 ,55 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 I0.I2 1 2 
 
 ~ sir 
 
 4; 61 8 
 
 — - I - 
 154, 
 
 -IT 
 
 1 Weather. 
 n"w. ' : cio~. ~ 
 
 53 '54 
 
 ■ 
 - 
 
 60[ , 
 52| 
 
 : 
 
 63| 
 
 44 
 ~ !46 
 
 49 ~" 
 
 »s 
 
 N W. 
 
 3j7w 
 
 Thunder. 
 
 |41 IS»| 
 
 48 
 
 48 
 
 
 
 Clear. 
 
 I |«4 Ml 
 46 57J |6l|~ 
 
 51 
 
 
 53 
 
 
 
 June 1st. 
 » 2-1." 
 • 3d. 
 " 4th7 
 
 '*• 5tll 
 
 " 6ih7 
 
 54142 
 
 45 
 47 
 
 _ 50~ 
 
 
 
 so 
 52 
 
 ■u 
 
 | 55 , 
 
 !sbj~ 1 
 
 — 
 52 
 
 J 
 
 56| 
 ~\~ 
 
 =1- 
 
 52 
 
 
 
 nisi n«rj«j 
 
 5tJ 49: 45 j 
 49 1 |57l i |46| | |*0 
 
 52 
 
 _J 9 __ 
 49 
 
 50 
 
 w. 
 
 WNW 
 WNW. 
 
 Rain. 
 Cloudy. 
 
 ChJar7 
 
 5)258 10)516 
 51 o ~51o
 
 109 
 
 very ample collections both of hand-specimens of 
 rock strata, and of imbedded fossils. The soil until 
 reaching the head of St. Clair river, is an alluvion, 
 that may be considered equal in quality with the val- 
 ley of the Ohio or the Mississippi, but from thence 
 to Michilimackinac partakes too much of the sand of 
 the shore, and is in many places swampy, with the 
 exception of the fine region about Saganaw, and the 
 extreme point of the peninsula of Michigan. 
 
 The distance from Detroit to Michilimackinac, 
 is computed at three hundred miles, by those who 
 perform the route in vessels of a large size, but is 
 considerably more, as will appear from the follow- 
 ing table, when all the indentations of the shore are 
 followed. 
 
 OF THE STATIONARY DISTANCES BETWEEN DETROIT AND 
 THE ISLAND OF MICHILIMACKINAC 
 
 To the upper end of P^ach Island, and en- 
 trance into Lake St. Clair. - 
 Grosse Point. - 
 
 Mouth of Huron River, of Lake St. Clair, 
 Mouth of St. Clair River, - 
 
 Belle Riviere, at St. Clair settlement, 
 Bla k River, - 
 
 Fort Gratiot, "."'.""" 
 
 White Rock, - 
 
 Elm Creek ------ 
 
 Black River, 
 
 Point Aux Barques, - 
 
 Point Aux Chenes, on Saganaw Bay, 
 
 Shawangunk Island, - - - - 
 
 River Aux Sahles, - - - - - 
 
 Thunder Bay Island, - 
 
 Flat Rock Point, near Middle Island, 
 
 Pp j sque Isle - 
 
 Lower end of the Island of Bois Blanc, 
 
 Michilimackinac) ----- 
 
 Vliles. 
 
 Total Miles. 
 
 6 
 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 15 
 
 24 
 
 8 
 
 32 
 
 IS 
 
 60 
 
 9 
 
 69 
 
 2 
 
 71 
 
 55 
 
 126 
 
 10 
 
 136 
 
 12 
 
 148 
 
 12 
 
 160 
 
 18 
 
 178 
 
 11 
 
 189 
 
 30 
 
 210 
 
 40 
 
 250 
 
 18 
 
 268 
 
 20 
 
 288 
 
 60 
 
 348 
 
 12 
 
 360
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 SIX DATS RESIDENCE AT MICHILIMACKINAC, INCLUDING 
 A VISIT TO THE ST. MARTINS ISLANDS. 
 
 XV. Day.— {June 1th.) 
 
 X HE island of Michilimackinac is nine miles in cir- 
 cumference, and covers an area of about seven 
 thousand six hundred and eighty acres. Its extreme 
 elevation above the lake is three hundred and 
 twelve feet, according to the observations of the 
 garrison, and nine hundred feet above the Atlantic 
 ocean, which is something more than half the height 
 of the Highlands of the Hudson.* Although its 
 
 * The altitude of the following points has been ascertained by 
 
 admeasurement : 
 
 HIGHLANDS OF NEW-YORK. 
 
 West-Point, above the Hudson 188 feet 
 
 Fort Putnam, 598 
 
 Bare Mountain, • 1350 
 
 Crow's Nest, 1418 
 
 Butter-Hill, 1529 
 
 New-Beacon, (east side) 1582 
 
 The highest peak of the Catskill mountain, as calcu- 
 lated by Capt. Partridge, 3S04 
 
 Highest peak of the Alleghanies, in Pennsylvania, 1300 
 
 Ackerly's Essay on the Geology of the Hudson.
 
 Ill 
 
 bluffs present the appearance of sterility, they are 
 covered with a strong soil, which is continually re- 
 novated by the spontaneous decomposition of calca- 
 reous rock, and the island has been long, and we are 
 led to believe, very justly, celebrated for the salu- 
 brity of its atmosphere. It contains three objects 
 of natural curiosity which are generally visited by 
 strangers, The Giant's Arch, — The Natural Pyramid, 
 or, sugar loaf rock, and I he Scull Rock. The for- 
 mer is a natural arch projecting from the precipice 
 on the northeastern side of the island, about a mile 
 from the town, and elevated one hundred and forty 
 feet above the level of the water. Its abutments are 
 the calcareous rock common to the island, and have 
 been created by the falling down oi enormous mass- 
 es of the rock, leaving a chasm of eighty or ninety 
 feet in height and crowned with an arch of fifty or 
 sixty feet sweep, having the usual curve of factitious 
 arches. The best view is from the beach, at the 
 ■water's edge. On viewing it from above, you are 
 obliged to approach within ten or twelve feet of 
 the chasm by which it is produced, before it can 
 be distinctly seen, so that the effect of perspective 
 is lost. i he natural pyramid is a lone standing 
 rock, upon the top of the bluff, of probably thirty 
 feet in width, at the base, by eighty or ninety in 
 height, of a rugged appearance, and supporting, in its 
 crevices, a few stunted cedars. It pleases chiefly by 
 its novelty, so wholly unlike any thing to be found 
 in other parts of the world, and on first approaching 
 it, gives the idea of a work of art. Its appearance 
 is readily explained by perceiving it to be a calca- 
 reous carbonat of the same character as that upon 
 which it is based, and retaining its original geologi-
 
 112 
 
 cal situation, and by supposing it to be the relic of a 
 st- atum which formerly extended to that depth over 
 the whole island. There is every appearance to 
 justify the conclusion, that such a decay and removal 
 of rock matter has taken place. 
 
 The Scull Rock is ehiefly noted for a cavern which 
 appears to have been an ancient receptacle of hu- 
 man bones, many of which are still to be observed 
 about its mouth. The entrance is low and narrow, 
 and seems to promise little to reward the labours of 
 exploration. It is here that Alexander Henry was 
 secreted by a friendly Indian, after the horrid mas- 
 sacre of the British garrison, at Old Michilimackinac, 
 in 176*.* 
 
 The present town of Michilimackinac is pleasantly 
 situated around a small bay, on the southern ex- 
 tremity of the island, and consists altogether of about 
 one hundred and fifty houses, several of which are 
 handsomely painted, its permanent population does 
 not differ far from tour hundred and fifty, but is some- 
 times swelled by the influx of traders, voyageurs and 
 Indians, to one or two thousand. The harbour is 
 safe in all winds, and sufficiently large to accommo- 
 date a hundred and fifty vessels. Fort Michilimac- 
 kinac stands on a rocky eminence, immediately 
 above the town, and is at present gnrrisoned by a 
 company of infantry, under the command of Capt* 
 Peirce. Fort Holmes occupies the apex of the 
 island, and is not at present garrisoned. This for- 
 tress was erected by the British while they held 
 possession of the island, during the late war, and by 
 them named Fort George. But after the surrender of 
 
 * See Henri's Travels and Adventure?, p. 119.
 
 113 
 
 the island, the name was altered in compliment to 
 the memory of Major Holmes, who fell in the un- 
 fortunate attack upon the island, by Col. Croghan. 
 The town of Michilimackinac is now the seat of jus- 
 tice for a county of the same name, which has re- 
 cently been erected in this part of the Michigan 
 Territory. According to the observation of Lieut. 
 Evileth, it lies in north latitude 45° 54' — which is 
 only 23' north of Montreal, as stated by Professor 
 Silliman.* It is in west longitude from Washington 
 city, 7° 10'. 
 
 XVI. Day. — (June 8th.) In consequence of a re- 
 ported discovery of gypsum upon the St. Martin's 
 islands, which belong to the Michilimackinac clus- 
 ter, 1 was directed by Gov. Cass to make a mi- 
 neralogical survey of those islands, and to report 
 upon the quantity and the quality of the gypsum 
 found. To convey me thither an arrangement had 
 been made with Capt. Knapp, commanding the Unit- 
 ed States revenue cutter on this station, and accom- 
 panied by Capt. Douglass, of the expedition, and 
 Lieut. Pierce, of the army, I went on board the 
 cutter this morning, at ten o'clock. We were fa- 
 voured with a wind, and alter accomplishing the ob- 
 ject of the voyage, returned to the harbour of Mi- 
 chilimackinac before dark. The St. Martin's isl- 
 ands lie about ten miles northeast of Michilimacki- 
 nac. The largest is about nine miles in circumfer- 
 ence, by three broad at the widest part, and consists 
 of alluvial soil, covered partly with a forest of oak, 
 maple, and poplar. In no place does it attain an 
 
 * Lat. of Montreal, 45» 81'. SUliman's Tour from Hartford t» 
 Quebec, p. S4J. 
 
 *5
 
 114 
 
 elevation of more than twenty feet above the level 
 of the lake, and it is subject to a partial inundation 
 in the spring, when the sudden melting of the north- 
 ern snows produces a rise of water in the lake. Im- 
 bedded in this soil, which appears naturally fertile, 
 we found large detached masses of gypsum, of a very 
 fine quality, and unconnected with any adhering 
 rock, so that no expense of blasting is necessary. 
 The principal body of this mineral noticed, consists 
 of the graiiularly foliated sulphate of lime of mineral- 
 ogy, mixed with scattered masses of the fibrous kind, 
 very white and beautiful. A great variety in the 
 colour, and its varying degrees of intensity is found, 
 among which white, red, and dark chesnut brown 
 predominate. Altogether the specimens bear a great- 
 er resemblance to the Nova Scotia gypsum, of which 
 such quantities are annually imported into the Unit- 
 ed States, than any of the numerous beds hitherto 
 discovered in New-York, and other sections of the 
 Union. And, if an opinion may be drawn from ex- 
 ternal characters, we may venture to consider the 
 St. Martin's, or, as it is already called, the ''Mackinac 
 gypsiim, of a superior quality for agricultural pur- 
 poses. As to the quantity in which it exists, nothing 
 can be decisively stated, as the earth has not been 
 much explored ; but from the abundance which is 
 scattered over the surface of the ground, and from 
 other geological appearances, it is probable that the 
 quantity will prove exhaustless. 
 
 XVII. Day.— (June 9th.) The island of Michili- 
 mackinac, and the adjacent coasts, have been the 
 theatre of some of the most interesting events in the 
 history of the settlement of the northwestern regions
 
 115 
 
 of our continent. In adverting to them, I shall 
 apply the term modem to the present town of Michi- 
 limackinac, in order to distinguish it from the an- 
 cient town, which was situated on the extreme point 
 of the Peninsula of Michigan, about three leagues 
 distant from the island. It appears from Herriot,* 
 that the settlement of the old town, is due to the ex- 
 ertions of Father Marquette, a French missionary, 
 who came here in 1671, with a party of Hurons, 
 whom he prevailed on to locate themselves at that 
 spot, where a fort was constructed, and it afterwards 
 became an important post. This was eight years 
 before La Salle's expedition through the lakes, and 
 was the first point of European settlement made 
 northwest of fort Frontenac, or Cadaracqui, on Lake 
 Ontario.f 
 
 M. Tonti, Hennepin, Charlevoix and other ancient 
 French writers, when they speak of Michilimacki- 
 nac, allude to the old peninsular fort. It continued 
 to be the seat of the fur trade, and the undisturbed, 
 rendezvous of the Indian tribes during the whole pe- 
 riod that the crown of France exercised jurisdiction 
 over the Canadas. After the fall of Quebec in 1 759, 
 it passed by treaty into the possession oi the British 
 government, but much against the wishes of the In- 
 dian tribes, who from long habits of intercourse with 
 the French, entertained an attachment and a par- 
 tiality which it was not easy to counteract. Such 
 was the spirit of animosity entertained by the Indians, 
 
 * See Herriot's Travels through the Canadas, p. 196. 
 
 f Neither Fort Niagara, or Fort Ponchartrain, ('the present site 
 of Detroit,) was then in existence. The foundation of the former 
 was laid hy La Salle, in 1678, — the latter had not heen erected 
 -vhen La Hcntan passed through the country, in 1688.
 
 M6 
 
 that one of the first English traders, (Alexander 
 Henry,) who ventured to visit Michilimackinac, 
 found it necessary on his arrival at that place in 
 1761, to conceal the circumstance of his nativity, and 
 to conduct his trade under the name of a French 
 assistant whom he had employed. When the de- 
 ception was a few days afterwards discovered, his 
 goods were only saved to him, by the fortunate ar- 
 rival of a British garrison of 300 men, who gave pro- 
 tection to the English trade, and compelled the In- 
 dians, for a time, to smother the flame of their animo- 
 sity. It was only, however, to break forth with re- 
 doubled violence, and the massacre of this garrison, 
 which ensued about eighteen months afterwards, 
 (1763) while it exhibits one of the most shocking in- 
 stances of Indian barbarity, is at the same time, a 
 striking proof of the sagacity and dissimulation of the 
 Indian character. It appears from the very interest- 
 ing account which is given of this transaction by 
 Henry, who was an eye witness, that the Indians were 
 in the habit of playing at a game called bag-gat-iway, 
 which is played with a ball and bat, on the principles 
 of our foot-ball, and decided by one of the party's 
 heaving the ball beyond the goal of their adversa- 
 ries. The king's birth day, the 4th of June, having 
 arrived, the Sacs and Chippe ways, who were encamp- 
 ed in great numbers around the fort, turned out up- 
 on the green, to play at this game, for a high wa- 
 ger, and attracted a number of the garrison and tra- 
 ders to witness the sport. "The game of baggat- 
 iway, is necessarily attended with much violence 
 and noise. In the ardour of contest, the ball, as has 
 been suggested, if it cannot be thrown to the goal 
 desired, is struck in any direction by which it cn?i
 
 i 17 
 
 be diverted from that designed by the adversary. 
 At such a moment, therefore, nothing could be less 
 liable to excite premature alarm, than that the ball 
 should be tossed over the pickets of the fort, nor that 
 having fallen there, it should be followed, on the in- 
 stant, by all engaged in the game, as well the one par- 
 ty as the other, all eager, — all struggling, — all shout- 
 ing, in the unrestrained pursuit of a rude athletic 
 exercise ; nothing, therefore, could be more happily 
 devised, under the circumstances, than a stratagem 
 like this ; and it was, in fact, the stratagem which 
 the Indians employed to obtain possession of the 
 fort, and by which they were enabled to slaughter 
 and subdue its garrison, and such of the other inhab- 
 itants as they pleased. To be still more certainPof 
 success, they had prevailed upon as many as they 
 could, by a pretext the least liable to suspicion, to 
 come voluntarily without the pickets ; and particu- 
 larly the commandant and garrison themselves."* 
 
 This event finally sealed the fate of the fort and 
 the town, after having been the seat of the fur trade 
 for ninety-two years. The Indians, after butchering 
 the garrison, burnt down the fort, and the English 
 afterwards took possession of, and fortified the isl- 
 and of Michilimackinac, which had previously giv- 
 en name to the fort on the Peninsula. No event of 
 importance appears to have disturbed the tranquil- 
 ity, or retarded the growth of the modern town, for a 
 long period, during which its trade and size, were 
 both considerably increased. During the American 
 revolution we hear nothing of it, except as the ren- 
 dezvous of hostile tribes. By the treaty of Paris, of 
 1783, acknowledging the independence, and fixing 
 
 * Henry, p. 85. 
 
 \
 
 118 
 
 the boundaries of Ihe United States, it fell under the 
 jurisdiction of the American government, and was 
 surrendered, according to JYlcKenzie, in 1794. Du- 
 ring the late war, (1812 — 14) the fort was surprised 
 by a body of British troops, and maintained until 
 surrendered by the treaty of Ghent of 1814 In the 
 meantime an unsuccessful assault was made upon it, 
 by Col. Croghan, who had distinguished himself in so 
 conspicuous a manner in the defence of Fort St. Ste- 
 phens, at Lower Sandusky. This assault was mark- 
 ed by the death of the gallant Maj. Holmes, who fell 
 at the head of his column in attempting to drive the 
 enemy from a commanding position. 
 
 XVIII. Day. — (June 10M.) — Few persons have vis- 
 ited this Island without being struck with the variety 
 and the delicacy of the fish, which are caught in the 
 vicinity. Among them we see two species of trout, 
 the lake herring, black and white bass, sturgeon, 
 mosquenonge, white fish (Jicamang of the Indians) 
 pike, gar, perch, and catfish, with several other spe- 
 cies of cartilaginous, and shell fish. Of these 
 the white fish is most esteemed for the richness and 
 delicacy of its flavour, and there is a universal 
 acquiescence in the opinion formerly advanced by 
 Charlevoix, " that whether fresh or salted, nothing 
 of the fish kind, can excel it." We cannot, however, 
 agree with the Baron La Hontan in the remark " that 
 it has one singular property, namely, that all sorts 
 of sauces spoil it.*' This fine fish is very abundant 
 around the island, and is taken with the hook and 
 line. It has not heretofore beer) described in ichthy- 
 ological works, but Governor Clinton is disposed to
 
 119 
 
 consider it a non-descript species of the sahno ge- 
 
 # 
 
 nus. 
 
 XIX. Day. — (June 1 ] th )— The geological charac- 
 ter of the island of Michilimackinac, presents some 
 features, which so far as observations have enabled 
 us to judge, are peculiar to it. It consists of a stra- 
 tum of limestone of immense thickness, based upon 
 a calcareous rock, in which the semi-crystalline 
 structure, and almost entire absence of fossil remains, 
 prove its intermediate age This formation is not 
 elevated more than a foot above the level of the 
 lake, and extends horizontally under the island. It is 
 overlayed by the rock forming the bluffs which have 
 so commanding an appearance on the approach to 
 the island, and attaining various elevations from one 
 hundred to three hundred feet. Its compact struc- 
 ture, and imbedded fossils leave no doubt as to its 
 posterior deposition, but what strikes us as peculiar 
 in this formation is the circumstance of its being 
 made up of fragments of both transition, and compact 
 limestone, with cavities of carbonat of lime in the 
 powdery form, (agaric mineral) together with small 
 fragments of a species of striped flinty agate, and in- 
 numerable small crystals of calcareous spar, thus giv- 
 ing it a breccioidal appearance. It is to be observed, 
 however, that no fragments of primitive rock, are 
 found in its composition, and that the calcareous 
 fragments are acute-angled, and bear no marks of 
 attrition. This formation is handsomely exposed 
 at the bluff, called Robinson's Folly, not quite a 
 
 * Memoir on the fishes of the western waters of the state of 
 New-York, appended to Mitchill's Ichthyology. 1st vol. Trans- 
 actions of the Literary and Philosophical Society.
 
 120 
 
 mile east of the town. The organic relics found in 
 it are generally in the .state of chalcedony, and some- 
 times covered with minute crystals of quartz. Of 
 this the best instance is afforded at Fort Holmes, 
 srhere the British garrison attempted to procure 
 water by sinking a very deep shaft, but without suc- 
 cess. This formation has not been traced on the ad- 
 joining shores. We shall content ourselves with' 
 the bare mention of these facts, without attempting, 
 in this place, to apply them to existing theories, or 
 received classifications. The town of 'Mackinac, 
 stands on a strip of alluvion below the bluff, consist- 
 ing of small smooth water worn pebbles of calcareous 
 rock, covered with a deposit of black soil about one 
 foot in depth. On the west side of the island, at the wa- 
 ter's edge, there is a bed of light blue clay which is 
 said to bum white, and to be well adapted for pipes, 
 and other articles of pottery. Among the detached 
 minerals of the island, I have noticed the brown 
 oxyd of iron, and radiated quartz upon a basis of 
 limestone, together with fragments of the flinty agate 
 of the 'Mackinac limestone, which has just been men- 
 tioned. Detached blocks of granite and hornblende 
 rock, are scattered over the alluvial soil of this island 
 These are the leading traits of its mineralogy and 
 geology. 
 
 XX. Day. — 'June 12//*.)— Hitherto, very little atten- 
 tion has been paid to agriculture on the island, al- 
 though the soil is not deficient in strength. Garden 
 vegetables grow in great perfection. We have parti- 
 cularly remarked the dry and mealy quality of the 
 potatoe, and have no where observed finer beets 
 and cabbages. The little depth of soil, is, however,
 
 121 
 
 unfavourable to forest trees, and there is a scarcity 
 of fire wood and building timber upon the island. A 
 supply of these articles is procured chiefly from the 
 neighbouring islands of Bois Blanc and Round Island. 
 Stone for building, and for quicklime, is abundant. 
 There are a number of sheep, cattle, and horses upon 
 the island, all of which thrive well. There is nei- 
 ther school or preaching upon the island. The town 
 has a post-office, a small jail, and a council house, in 
 which the courts of justice are held There is no 
 regular bred attorney, although two persons, occa- 
 sionally practice. The only physician is the one 
 attached to the garrison. There appears therefore 
 in the present society of 'Mackinac the want of a 
 preacher, a school-master, an attorney, and a physi- 
 cian, — of merchants there are always too many. The 
 etymology of the word Michilimackinac, admits of a 
 ready explanation. It is a compound of the word 
 missi or mm?7, signifying " great," and mackinac the 
 Indian word for " turtle," from a fancied resem- 
 blance of the island to a great turtle lying upon the 
 water. These are words of the Chippeway lan- 
 guage. Herriot derives this name, but without much 
 probability, from Imakinakos, an Indian spirit suppo- 
 sed to have formerly inhabited the island. Since- 
 our arrival here, there has been a great number of 
 Indians of the Chippeway and Ottaway tribes, en- 
 camped near the town. The beach of the lake has 
 been constantly liued with Indian hu!s and bark ca- 
 noes. The savages are generally well dressed, in 
 their own costume, and exhibit physiognomies with 
 more regularity of features and beauty of expression, 
 than it is common to find among them. This is pro- 
 bably attributable to a greater intermixture of blood 
 
 1G
 
 122 
 
 in this vicinity. These savages resort to the island 
 for the purpose of exchanging their furs, for blank- 
 ets, knives, and other articles. Their visits are pe- 
 riodical, being generally made after their spring and 
 fall hunts, and their stay is short. Some of the tribes 
 also bring in for sale- several articles of Indian man- 
 utaclure, particularly a kind of rush mat of a very 
 handsome fabric, (see Plate 2, Fig. 13,) bark bas- 
 kets filled with maple sugar, called mokc-ocks, (see 
 Plate 2, Fig. 3,) with quilled mockasins, (10 and 11,) 
 shot pouches >'12,) and other fancy goods ot Indian 
 fabric, which are generally in demand as articles of 
 curiosity. 
 
 During our detention here, vessels have been con- 
 stantly entering or leaving the harbour, giving the 
 town an appearance of bustle and business, which 
 was not expected. This appearance of trade has, 
 perhaps, recently assumed a partial activity, by the 
 concentration of a considerable military force on 
 this frontier, which has furnished employment to a 
 number of vessels in the transportation of troops, 
 military stores, and provisions. The Indian trade is 
 chiefly conducted by the American, or South West 
 Fur Company, under the direction of Messrs. Stuart 
 and Crooks. Indeed the ware houses, stores, offi- 
 ces, boat yards and other buildings of this establish- 
 ment, occupy a considerable part of the town plat, 
 and the company furnishes employment to a great 
 number of clerks, engages, and mechanics, and con- 
 tributes very largely to the general business, activi- 
 ty, a id enterprise ot the town. The trade and ope- 
 rations of this company are confined principally to 
 the northwestern territories of the United States. 
 As to the amount of capital vested, and the quantity
 
 123 
 
 of furs annually returned into their ware houses, we 
 have no means of accurate information. It is said 
 to be less profitable now, than at a former period. 
 The following account of the produce of the fur 
 trade for one year, given by McKenzie, will serve to 
 give an idea of its former extent : 
 
 « 106,000 Beaver skins, " 6,000 Lynx skins, 
 
 2,100 Bearskins, 600 Wolverine skins, 
 
 1,500 Fox skins, 1,650 Fisher skins, 
 
 4,000 Kitt Fox skins, 100 Raccoon skins, 
 
 4,600 Otter skins, 3,800 Wolf skins, 
 
 16,000 Musquash skins, 700 Elk skins, 
 *32,000 Martin skins, 750 Deer skins, 
 
 1,800 Mink skins, 1,200 Deer do. dressed, 
 
 500 Buffaloe Robes, and a quantity of casto- 
 rum." 
 
 Whether the skins of these animals continue to form 
 the staple articles of the trade — whether the propor- 
 tion of skins varies greatly in different years — and 
 whether there is an increase or diminution of th total 
 amount, are the secrets of a business of which we 
 are ignorant. 
 
 The weather since our arrival upon the island, has 
 been cooler and more variable, we are informed, 
 than is common during this month. Out of six days, 
 two have been rainy and cloudy. The wind has 
 prevailed from the S. E. The highest point at 
 which the thermometer has been observed, as will 
 be seen by a reference to the following meteorologi- 
 cal register, is 68°, and the average daily heat for the 
 week 55°, which is eleven degrees lower than the mean
 
 121 
 
 temperature of June at Quebec, according to the 
 observations of the late Duke of Richmond.* 
 
 During the afternoon of this day we beheld a strik- 
 ing instance of the singular manner in which the isl- 
 and is frequently enveloped in a fog, which is so 
 dense as to obscure objects at the distance of two 
 hundred yards. Being at the moment engaged, in 
 company with Lieutenant Mackay, in sketching a 
 view of the fort and town, from Round Island, we 
 were compelled to relinquish our designs unfinished,, 
 and it was with some difficulty we reached the har- 
 bour of 'Mackinac. These fogs are common upon 
 the lakes during the summer season. They rise 
 suddenly, without any previous indications of a hazy 
 atmosphere. — move with great velocity, and some- 
 times prove disastrous to canoe-traveliers, and 
 voyageurs. 
 
 * Silliman's Tour to Quebec, p. 294. 
 
 Meteorological Ohs> rvutioits at Michilimadcinac. 
 
 1 820. | Atmospheric temp. 
 
 Mean 
 
 temp. 
 
 Winds. 
 
 Weather. 
 
 
 
 \. M. 
 
 P. ML 
 
 ! "| 8 
 
 1j 
 
 21 6 
 6.(59 
 681*2 
 
 57 j 4 
 6~\~ 
 
 8 
 54 
 
 55 
 66~~ 
 
 49~~ 
 56 _ 
 
 
 
 June 7th, 
 
 " 8th. 
 
 46 47 
 
 62 
 61 
 56 
 
 W. N. W. 
 
 Clear. 
 
 
 59 
 53 
 
 55 
 
 W. N. W 
 
 " 
 
 
 " 9th. [4I 
 " " 10th. ~ 
 
 S. E. 
 
 Rain. 
 
 S. E. 
 
 Rain. 
 
 " lllh.|52J 
 
 
 54 
 
 
 51 
 
 52 
 
 S. E. 
 
 Clear. 
 
 " 12th. 
 
 54 1 oj 
 |53| ! | 
 
 
 5. 
 
 59 
 
 s. E. 
 
 " 
 
 « 13th 
 
 53 
 
 S. W. 
 
 Clear, quit Mack, at 
 
 10. 
 
 7) J8S 
 
 55° \Tpmii daily temperature.
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 J O U M jY E Yj 
 
 FROM MICHILIMACKIMC TO THE SAULT BE ST. MARIE. 
 
 XXI. Day.— (June V3th.) 
 
 J. RE provisions and stores shipped from Detroit, 
 did not reach 'Mackinac until the 10th instant. We 
 also found our canoes deficient both in size and con- 
 struction, and that to embark the provisions of the 
 expedition, an additional number would be requir- 
 ed. To secure our corn, flour, bacon, &c more 
 completely from exposure, it was considered advan- 
 tageous to get the principal part of these articles 
 packed up in ten gallon kegs, an arrangement that 
 would also very much facilitate the loading and un- 
 loading, which must, at least, be performed every 
 morning and evening. Additional sources of delay 
 arose from military equipments, the tardiness of me- 
 chanics, and unfavourable winds, which prevented 
 us from quitting 'Mackinac, until this morning. Our 
 whole force now consisted of forty-two persons, em- 
 barked in four canoes, exclusive of a detachment of 
 twenty-two soldiers from the garrison of 'Mackinac, 
 under the command of Lieut. Pierce, which occupied 
 a twelve oared barge. This escort was deemed ne- 
 cessary to accompany us to the Sault, where the In-
 
 126 
 
 dians were reported to entertain a spirit of hostility 
 towards the United States, and some even went so 
 far as to affirm that they would attempt to stop our 
 passage through Lake Superior. We left the har- 
 bour of 'Mackinac at ten o'clock in the morning, 
 with a favourable breeze, which carried us at the 
 rate of five miles per hour, and passing the De Tour 
 before sun-set, ascended the straits of St. Mary, five 
 miles, and encamped on the west shore, opposite 
 Drummond's Island. The entire distance is forty- 
 five miles. The intermediate places of most note, 
 are Outarde Island, at the distance of three leagues 
 from [\fichilimackinac, and the mouth of Rapid ri- 
 ver, which is passed at the distance of twenty miles. 
 
 The banks of Lake Huron are generally low and 
 swampy ; in some places there are sandy plains, 
 covered with pine. The shore is strewed with frag- 
 ments of limestone, granite, and hornblende ; and 
 the former, in the compact form, appears in situ, at 
 the few places where we had an opportunity to ex- 
 amine it. A ridge of highland appears on the main 
 land east of 'Mackinac, stretching of! towards the 
 Sault de St. Marie, in a general course, northeast. 
 This ridge apparently belongs to that mountain 
 chain of which the island of Michilimackinac is, pro- 
 bably, one of the disjointed links ; but we are not 
 enabled to say that this remark will be justified by 
 geological correspondences. 
 
 The Detour is the western cape of the Straits of 
 St. Mary, distant forty miles from Michilimackinac, 
 and situated, according to McKenzie, in north lati- 
 tude j/)° 54', Here our course is suddenly changed 
 from E. to N. and N.W. consequently the wind, which 
 was iavourable thus far, proved a serious incon-
 
 127 
 
 venience at the moment of our turning the point. No 
 current in the Strait has, however, as yet, been expe- 
 rienced. The mercury has not risen over 63° in the 
 shade, although standing at 82° in the sun. In the 
 course of the afternoon of this day, on landing in a 
 small cove, on the Huron shore, we saw a large por- 
 cupine upon the beach, on which one of the voya- 
 geurs immediately jumped out of the canoe, and 
 killed it with a hatchet, i his animal has general- 
 ly been confounded, by the travellers of the region, 
 with the hedge-hog, which is entirely different in its 
 characters and habits, and is not supposed to inha- 
 bit the northern regions of America, although it is 
 frequently found in high northern latitudes in Eu- 
 rope, — as in Norway, Sweden, and Russia. Buffon 
 gives two engravings of the porcupine, as distinct 
 species, under the name of UUrson, and Le Coen- 
 dou, both said to inhabit the Canadas. But there is 
 some reason to suppose that he has described the 
 same animal in its summer and winter dress, as the 
 thinness and scarcity of hair on his L'Urson, is the 
 principal characteristic difference. The porcupine 
 is known to shed a great portion of its hair as the 
 warm season approaches. This animal is called. 
 Caqua, by the Indans, by whom it is highly valued 
 for its quills. The skin does not form an article of 
 traffic, but it serves them as a vessel to hold bears 
 oil, and as medicine bags or short pouches. The 
 quills are dyed, with indigenous plants, of various 
 beautiful colours, and employed to trim the edges of 
 their mockasins, leggons, skins, and dresses. The 
 colours, which are red, blue, green, black, and yel- 
 low, are very bright and permanent, and a mockasin 
 or Indian shoe, which has been thus ornamented,
 
 128 
 
 may be worn any length of time, in mud and water, 
 without perceiving that the colouring matter of the 
 quills is any way obliterated or discharged. The 
 Indians are also very iond of the tlesh of this animal, 
 which is said to be delicious, and to resemble in fla- 
 vour a young pig. It fixes its habitation under the 
 roots of trees, but being provided with sharp claws, 
 also ascends their boughs in quest of fruit. There 
 are four claws on each fore paw, and five on the 
 hinder ones. It has small ears, hid in the hair, and 
 a long bushy tail covered with coarse hair, white 
 and black, It is a lazy animal, seldom going more 
 than a mile from its habitation ; has a slow motion, 
 and is easily overtaken and killed. When attacked 
 it appears to rely, with a foolish confidence, upon its 
 quills, which are, in reality, a very inefficient de- 
 fence. It has no power to eject them, but when 
 touched, they easily leave the skin, but will not 
 work their way into the flesh, as has been repre- 
 sented. The Indians, however, employ them for 
 boring their ears and noses. They seldom make use 
 of the rifle in killing this animal, but run up and 
 despatch it with the tomahawk. The one now kill- 
 ed would probably weigh eight pounds. 
 
 XXII. Day. — (June 14th.) We embarked at five 
 o'clock in the morning, and reached the Sault de St. 
 Marie, in season to pitch our tents before sun set. 
 The distance is forty-five miles. The country con- 
 tinues low and swampy, until you come within three 
 or four miles of the Sault, where it is handsomely 
 elevated. There are two rapids in the intermediate 
 distance, which arc ascended with loaded canoes. 
 The lake or strait, may be supposed to cease, and
 
 129 
 
 the river to commence, at the foot of the first rapid 
 called Miscouiin or JVibish, as there is no percepti- 
 ble current below it, where the strait assumes a 
 great width, and is filled with innumerable islands. 
 Keeping close to the western shore, these islands 
 constantly bound the view on the east until with- 
 in five miles of the Sault, where the different chan- 
 nels unite. The ship channel lies on the east side 
 of the islands, where the great body of water passes, 
 and the rapids are less formidable. In passing up 
 the rapid of Nibish, in the west channel, which 
 is generally taken by canoes, we experienced a very 
 swift current, and shallow water, and injured our 
 canoes so much that we were compelled on reaching 
 the head of it, to unload, and repair. It was one 
 o'clock when we passed the rapid, and this accident 
 consumed a couple of hours. In the meantime the 
 sky became overcast, the wind arose and blew ahead, 
 and very heavy peals of thunder, indicated an ap- 
 proaching storm. After waiting sometime, however, 
 without getting any rain, we reloaded the canoes 
 and embarked, and had proceeded five or six miles 
 when a heavy shower of rain commenced. It did 
 not compel us to land, and at six o'clock in the eve- 
 ning the sky was clear. We now passed the site of 
 the village of St. Joseph, upon the island of the same 
 name, where the British maintained a garrison be- 
 fore the late war, but it was demolished by Col. 
 Croghan previous to his attack upon the island of 
 Michilimackinac, and the village burnt. Since that 
 perod the English have fortified Drummond's island 
 at the entrance of the straits, which is now the depot 
 of their Indian trade. The island of St. Joseph is 
 large and fertile, and was considerably cultivated 
 
 17
 
 J30 
 
 previous to the late war. It is computed to be se- 
 venty-five miles in circumference, and to cover an 
 area o< "fifty-seven thousand six hundred acres, which 
 is seven times the size of the island of 'Mackinac. The 
 site of the demolished fort, is elevated about fifty 
 feet, and is extremely beautiful and commanding. 
 It was first occupied by the British in 1795, prepa- 
 ratory to the surrender of 'Mackinac which took 
 place the following year. The stone chimneys of 
 the former houses are still standing to attest the bar- 
 barous policy of war. At eight o'clock we passed 
 the second rapid, but without injury to our canoes 
 This is situated two miles below the village of the 
 Sault, and on reaching the head of it, we have a hand- 
 some view of that village, with the intervening river 
 and shore, and the dense forest of elm, sugar maple, 
 ash, and pine, which lines this part of the river. ' In 
 passing up this river from the Detour no change in 
 the geological appearances of the country are seen, 
 until we approach the head of the island of St. Jo- 
 seph, where the compact limestone disappears, and 
 is succeeded by a red sand stone. The latter rock 
 is particularly apparent, at the ensuing rapid in the 
 bed of the river, and continues from that onward. 
 
 XXIII. Day.— (June lUh.)— The Sault de St. Ma 
 rie, is the largest of three rapids which impede the 
 navigation of the river St. Mary between Lake Supe- 
 rior and Lake Huron, and puts a final stop to the 
 ship navigation of the northern lakes. It is situated 
 fifteen miles below the foot of Lake Superior, and 
 ninety northwest of the island of 'Mackinac, in N. 
 latitude 46° 31' according to McKenzie. The fall of 
 the river, at this rapid, as ascertained by Col. Gra-
 
 131 
 
 tiot, is twenty-two feet ten inches, in little more than 
 half a mile, which is nearly the same as the fall of 
 the Ohio at Louisville in the distance of two miles.* 
 Unlike that, however, it can never, at any season of 
 the year, be ascended with large vessels. Canoes 
 and barges usually go up with half a load, the ba- 
 lance being carried over the portage, but in return- 
 ing, descend with a full load. The bed of the river 
 consists of horizontal strata of red and variegated 
 sand stone, which have been much worn, broken, 
 and carried away, and large fragments of it, together 
 with blocks of mixed granite and hornblende, out of 
 place, are thickly strewed throughout the rapid, 
 and by opposing the rush of water, throw it violent- 
 ly in all directions, and at the distance of half a mile 
 give it the appearance of a bank of foam. Several 
 wooded islands upon the inclined plane of the 
 falls, by contrasting the deep green foliage of the 
 hemlock, spruce, and pine, with the snowy white- 
 ness of the rapids, produce a contrast which has 
 a pleasing effect ; and with the shadowy outlines 
 of the distant mountains of Lake Superior, the 
 singular mixture of forest trees upon the shores, 
 and the fishing canoes of the savages, which are con- 
 stantly seen at the foot of the falls, render it one of the 
 most picturesque views of northern scenery. I have 
 attempted to seize upon some of the prominent fea- 
 tures of this scene in the accompanying sketch, (Plate 
 3,) which may also serve to convey an idea of the 
 unusual martner in which the maple, and the pine, — 
 the elm, and the hemlock, are intermingled in the 
 forests upon the banks of this beautiful stream. 
 
 * See Dr. Drake's Natural and Statistical View of Cincinnati, 
 and the Miami country, p. 15.
 
 132 
 
 The village of the Sault de St. Marie, is on 
 the south or American shore, and consists of from 
 fifteen to twenty buildings, occupied by five or six 
 French and English families. Among the latter is 
 that of J. Johnston, Esq. a gentleman of rank, who, 
 in the prosecution of the northwest fur trade, set- 
 tled here shortly after the close of the American 
 revolution, and married the daughter of a Chippe- 
 way chief, In the hospitality and politeness, which 
 during our stay at the Sault, we experienced in this 
 family, we have been made to forget our insulated 
 situation, and to observe how short a participation 
 in the blandishments of refined society, is sufficient 
 to obliterate the effect of the fatigues and privations 
 of travelling. The site of the village is elevated and 
 pleasant, and a regular plan appears to have been 
 observed in the buildings, though some of them are 
 in a state of dilapidation, and altogether it has the 
 marks of an ancient settlement fallen to decay. Such 
 indeed it is, having been settled by the French short- 
 ly after the occupation of old 'Mackinac, and it con- 
 tinued for a long time the site of a French fort and 
 Jesuit mission. Charlevoix, in 1721, speaks of thij 
 mission as one of no recent date, # and Henry, in 1762, 
 found here a stockaded fort, with a small garrison, 
 under the command of a French national officer, 
 who was colloquially addressed by the title of Go- 
 vernor:]' There were then four houses, two of which 
 had been occupied as barracks, and the fort is de- 
 scribed as " seated on a beautiful plain, of about 
 two miles in circumference, and covered with luxu- 
 
 * Charlevoix's Journal, Vol. II. p. 45. 
 t Henry's Travels, p. 5S.
 
 133 
 
 riant grass, and within half a mile of the Rapids." 
 Although no vestiges of the old fort remain, this de- 
 scription of the site is perfectly accurate at the pre- 
 sent moment. It has always been the residence of 
 Indian tribes, who are drawn to this spot in great 
 numbers, by the advantages of taking the white-fish, 
 which are very abundant at the foot of the rapid. 
 There are, at present, about forty lodges of Chippe- 
 way Indians, (called Saulteurs, by the Krench,) con- 
 taining a population of about two hundred souls, who 
 subsist wholly upon the white-fish. " The method 
 of taking them is this : — Each canoe carries two 
 men, one of whom steers with a paddle, and the 
 other is provided with a pole, ten feet in length, and 
 at the end of which is affixed a scoop net. The 
 steersman sets the canoe from the eddy of one rock 
 to that of another; while the fisherman, in the prow, 
 who sees, through the pellucid element, the prey oi 
 which he is in pursuit, dips his net, and sometimes 
 brings up at every succeeding dip, as many as it can 
 contain. The fish are often crowded together in the 
 water in great numbers, and a skilful fisherman, in 
 autumn, will take five hundred in two hours. This 
 fishery is of great moment to the surrounding Indians, 
 whom it supplies with a large proportion of their 
 winter's provision ; for, having "taken the fish in the 
 manner described, they cure them by drying in 
 the smoke, and lay them up in large quantities." 
 .(jHenry.) These fish are preferred - by most of our 
 party to the 'Mackinac trout. Their abundance 
 may hereafter render them an important article in 
 the commerce of the upper lakes. 
 
 On the north, or Canadian shore of the river, there 
 are also six or seven dwelling houses, occupied by
 
 134 
 
 French and English families, exclusive of the North- 
 west Company's establishment, which is seated im- 
 mediately at the foot of the Falls, and consists of a 
 number of store and dwelling houses, a saw mill, 
 and a boat yard. These are represented on the 
 right side of the View of the Sault de St. Marie. 
 Plate No. 3. This company have also constructed 
 a canal, with a lock at its lower entrance, and a 
 towing path for drawing up barges and canoes. At 
 the head of the rapid they have built a pier from 
 one of the islands, forming a harbour, and here a 
 schooner is generally lying to receive the goods 
 destined for the Grand Portage, and the regions 
 northwest of Lake Superior. 
 
 XXIV. Day. — {June 1 6th.) The commanding po- 
 sition of the Sault de St. Marie, on the outlet of 
 Lake Superior, and at the head of ship navigation, 
 had early pointed it out to the French as an advan- 
 tageous site for a military and a trading post, and we 
 accordingly find that it was occupied as such at an 
 early period of the settlement of Canada. By this 
 place all the fur trade of the northwest is compelled 
 to pass, and it is the grand thoroughfare of Indian 
 communication for the upper countries, as far as the 
 arctic circle. Independent of these circumstances, 
 the advantages of taking the white-fish, at the foot 
 of the Rapids, have always rendered it a place of 
 resort to the Indian tribes of the region, particular- 
 ly during the summer season, when the hunting is 
 most precarious. No place could, therefore, be 
 better adapted to acquire an influence over the sa- 
 vage tribes, to monopolize their commerce, and to 
 guard the frontier settlements against their incur
 
 13b 
 
 sions. It is, indeed, surprising to reflect upon the 
 early enterprize and sound judgment of the French 
 in seizing upon the points, commanding all the 
 natural avenues and passes of the lakes, particular- 
 ly when it is considered that these selections must 
 necessarily have been the result of an intimate ac- 
 quaintance with the geographical features of the 
 country. This is yearly proved by the re-occupa- 
 tion of posts and places long neglected, but the im- 
 portance of which has become apparent in propor- 
 tion as we have set a just value upon the Indian 
 trade, and the natural advantages of the country. 
 Perhaps in no instance is this more strikingly exem- 
 plified than in the Sault, the commanding position of 
 which, although always known to the traders, has 
 but lately been perceived by our government. The 
 advantages which a rival nation has taken of 
 this neglect, could not fail to excite attention at a 
 period when such laudable exertions are making in 
 all parts of the Union to explore the geography, and 
 to call into action the hidden resources of the coun- 
 try ; and it appears to have been among the prima- 
 ry objects of the expedition to prepare the way for 
 the introduction of an American garrison at this place. 
 To attain this object, a council of the chiefs of the 
 Chippeway tribe was this morning summoned at the 
 Governor's marque, and the views of the govern- 
 ment explained to them. By the treaty of Green- 
 ville, of 1795, a saving clause had been inserted by 
 Gen. Wayne, covering any gifts or grants of land in 
 the Northwest Territories, which the Indians had 
 formerly made to the French or English govern- 
 ments,* and this clause has been renewed or 
 
 * In the third article ©f this treaty, after reciting a number of 
 particular cessions of lands^ posts and carrying places, number.
 
 136 
 
 confirmed by treaties with the same tribes since 
 the conclusion of the late war.* Under this trea- 
 ty, the United States claimed the concession for- 
 merly made at the Sault, to the French, by virtue of 
 which it had been occupied as a military post. It 
 was now proposed to treat for settling the boundaries 
 of the grant, and in this way obtain an acknowledg- 
 ment and renewal of it. These things were distinct- 
 ly stated through the interpreter. The Indians, 
 seated in their usual ceremonious manner, listened 
 with attention, and several of the chiefs spoke in re- 
 ply. They were evidently opposed to the proposi- 
 tion, and first endeavoured to evade it, by pretend- 
 ing to know nothing of the former grant, but this 
 point being pressed home, was afterwards given up, — 
 still they continued to speak in an evasive and desul- 
 tory manner, which amounted to a negative refusal, 
 It was also observable that there was no great unan- 
 imity of opinion among them, and some animated 
 discussion, between themselves, took place. Some 
 appeared in favour of settling the boundary, provid- 
 ed it was not intended to be occupied by a garrison- 
 saying, that they were afraid in that case, their 
 
 ed from one to eleven, it also cedes, " 12th. The post of De- 
 troit, and all the land to the north, the west, and the south of 
 it, of which the Indian title has been extinguished by gifts or grants 
 to the French or English governments," &c. Treaty with the 
 Wyandot, Delaware, Shawanee, Ottaway, Chippeway, Pottawata* 
 mi, Miamie, Eel-river, IVeea, Kickapoo, Piankathaw. and Kaskas- 
 Ida nations. Greenville, 3d August, 1795. — Land Laws of the 
 United States } p. 56. 
 
 * By the treaty of Detroit, or Spring Wells, of the 8th Septem- 
 ber, 1815, and by the treaty of Fort Harrison, of the 4th June; 
 1816.
 
 137 
 
 young men might prove unruly, and kill the cattle 
 and hogs that should stray away from the garrison. 
 This was intended as an insidious Ihreat, and I was 
 particularly struck with the reply of Gov. Cass, to 
 the chief who had thrown it out, in which he said, — > 
 that as to the establishment of a garrison at the 
 Sault, they might give themselves no uneasiness, for 
 that point was already settled, and so sure as the 
 sun, which was then rising, would set, so sure 
 would there be an American garrison sent to (hat 
 place, whether they renewed the grant or not. Such 
 decision has always great weight with the In- 
 dians, and in the present instance was particularly 
 so, as a casual, but indiscreet and unauthorised con- 
 versation which had been held by some officer of 
 our party with one of the chiefs, before the council 
 assembled, had given them to understand that the 
 United States did not wish to occupy the Sault as a 
 military post. They were, however, determined not 
 to accede to our wishes, and in seeing ourselves 
 surrounded by a brilliant assembly of chiefs, dressed 
 in costly broadcloths, feathers, epaulets, medals, and 
 silver wares, of British fabric, and arra^d from 
 the manufactories of Birmingham, all gratuitously 
 given, we could not mistake the influence by which 
 they were actuated in this negociation. When, 
 therefore, several hours had been spent, during the 
 latter part of which the Indians employed a very 
 animated language, and strong gesticulation, the 
 council broke up, somewhat abruptly, without com- 
 ing to any final decision, at least, without assenting 
 to the proposition. The last chief who spoke, called 
 " the Count,"'(a brigadier in the British service.) in the 
 course of his s cs. drew his war-lance and stack it 
 
 furiously in the ground before him, and assumed a 
 
 18
 
 138 
 
 look of savage wildrJess, which appeared to produce 
 a corresponding effect upon the other Indians, for 
 there was an evident agitation among them, during 
 the latter part of the council ; and when he left 
 the marque kicked away the presents which had 
 been laid before him. On breaking up. they pro- 
 ceeded directly to their encampment, and we dis- 
 persed to our tents. A few moments only had, 
 however, elapsed, before it was discovered that the 
 Indians had hoisted the British flag in the midst of 
 their encampment. On being informed of this, Gov. 
 Cass immediately ordered the expedition under 
 arms, and calling the interpreter, proceeded, with 
 no other escort, to the lodge of the chief, before 
 whose door it had been erected, took down the in- 
 sulting flag, and carried it back to our camp. Up- 
 on this occasion he entered the lodge of the chief 
 who had raised it, (the same who had before drawn 
 his war-lance in council,) and told him it was an in- 
 dignity they were not permitted to offer upon the 
 American territories, — that we were their natural 
 guardians and friends, and were always studious to 
 render them strict justice, and to promote their 
 peace and happiness ; but the flag was the distin- 
 guishing token of national power, connected with 
 .our honour and independence, — that two national 
 standards could not fly in peace upon the same ter- 
 ritory, — and that they were forbid to raise any but our 
 own. and if they should again presume to attempt it, 
 the United States would set a strong foot upon their 
 necks, and crush them to the earth.* This intrepid 
 
 * I vlo not pretend to quote the exact language of the Governor, 
 or to l»o posiiive as to every sentiment uttered, not having heard 
 him, but rely upon my recollection of the account given by the
 
 3 39 
 
 conduct struck the Indians with astonishment, and 
 produced an effect, — which we were not at the mo- 
 ment sensible, was all that prevented an open rup- 
 ture. In ten minutes from the Governor's return to 
 our camp, the Indians cleared their lodges of every 
 woman and child, covering the river with canoes, 
 and expecting so decisive a step to be followed by 
 a general attack of their camp. In the mean time 
 it was looked upon by the expedition, as a prepara- 
 tory movement to the savage war whoop, and we 
 stood prepared to encounter the shock. Our num- 
 ber, at this time, including Lieut. Pierce's command, 
 was sixty-six men, well armed and prepared ; about 
 thirty of whom were United States soldiers. The 
 number of Indian warriors then upon the ground was 
 between seventy and eighty, being also well armed 
 in the Indian manner. Our encampment was regu- 
 larly formed upon the green, near the banks of the 
 river. The Indians occupied an eminence which 
 was formerly the site of the French fort, at the dis- 
 tance of five or six hundred yards, and separated 
 from us by a small ravine. We were kept in this 
 state of alarm for some time, when the Indians hav- 
 ing ceased to hold themselves in a hostile attitude, 
 the soldiers were dismissed to their tents. In the 
 mean time, an overture was proposed by some of 
 the older chiefs, who had not been present at the 
 council in the morning, and about seven o'clock in 
 the evening a treaty was concluded and signed, by 
 
 interpreter, (the only person with him,) on his return to camp. I 
 should not take the liberty of quoting itatall, were it not necessary 
 to shew the feeling of resentment with which the insult was re- 
 ceived, and to explain our critical situation upon that occasion.
 
 140 
 
 which they cede to the United States a tract of 
 land four miles square, commencing at the Sault, and 
 extending two miles up, and the same distance down 
 the river, with a depth of four miles, including the 
 portage, and the site of the village and old fort, but re- 
 serving the right of fishing at the falls, and of en- 
 campment upon the shore. When the agreement 
 was concluded, the Indian ceremony of smoking the 
 pipe of peace, and shaking hands, as mentioned in 
 Day X was performed, and their signatures by mark, 
 were afterwards obtained. For this cession of land 
 they were paid on the spot, in blankets, knives, sil- 
 ver wares, broadcloths, and other Indian goods.
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 J O U RJV E Y, 
 
 PROM THE SAULT DE ST. MARIE TO THE OJVTOjXAGON 
 RIVER O.V LAKE SUPERIOR. 
 
 XXV. Day.— {June llth.) 
 
 IJURING our stay at the Sault, eleven barges and 
 canoes from the upper lakes descended the rapids 
 affording us a handsome opportunity to witness the 
 skill of the voyageurs in conducting canoes over this 
 dangerous leap. They were principally laden with 
 furs and skins for the North West and American 
 companies. At nine o'clock in the morning, we com- 
 menced the ascent of the Sault, the canoes carrying- 
 half loads, while the soldiers were employed in car- 
 rying the remainder of the baggage across the port- 
 age, which is a little more than half a mile in length. 
 It was six o'clock in the afternoon, before this labour 
 was finished, when we embarked and proceeded six 
 miles to Point aux Pins, on the Canadian side of the 
 river ; and this is the only night during the whole 
 expedition which we passed in the Canadian ter- 
 ritory. Point aux Pins was formerly noted as the 
 site of a ship yard, and had a few buildings to ac- 
 commodate the workmen, but the vestiges of these 
 only remain. The width and depth of the river at this 
 place, must have rendered it a favourable spot for
 
 142 
 
 launching vessels. The current is very gentle, and 
 the shore sandy, and entirely free from rocks. The 
 thermometer this day at 3 P. M. stood at U2°, being 
 the highest point at which it has been observed up- 
 on the river St. Mary.* 
 
 XX VI Day.— (June lSfh.)— We embarked at six 
 o'clock in the morning. The distance from Point 
 aux Pins to the entrance into Lake Superior, was 
 now three leagues, the river spread broadly before 
 us, and the highlands which had been dimly seen 
 from the Sault, presented their imposing outlines 
 distinctly to the view, and were every moment as- 
 suming a new and more interesting character. The 
 morning was clear and pleasant, with a gentle breeze 
 blowing up the river, which, while it filled our sails 
 and relieved the voyageurs from labour, produced 
 an exhileraling effect upon our spirits, by its refresh- 
 ing coolness ; and we approached the lake with a 
 feeling of impatient delight. The most enchanting 
 views were presented in every direction, and we fully 
 realized the justice of the remark made by Carver 
 w that the entrance into Lake Superior affords one of 
 the most pleasing prospects in the world." Suddenly, 
 however, a storm arose, and compelled us precipi- 
 tately to land, and we were here detained from five 
 
 * V hi i n onu tt < at t bsei v 'lions on the journey t'rom 'Mackinac to 
 
 Like Superior. 
 
 UATIS. 
 18< 
 
 June i 1th 
 « 14th. 
 
 Place of obser- 
 vation. 
 
 A. 
 
 M. 
 
 P. M. 
 
 Mean 
 heat. 
 
 Wind and 
 Weather. 
 
 6 
 
 o 
 
 10 
 
 I ? 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 71 9 
 
 'Mack, to Detour. 
 
 53 
 
 
 
 61 
 
 63 
 
 
 58 
 
 59 
 
 Win 1, S W. 
 Hum. 
 
 St. Mary's River. 
 
 55 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 73 
 
 
 
 57 
 
 61 
 
 " IStli. 
 [ " 16m. 
 
 Sault Ue St. Marie. 
 
 
 66 
 
 67 
 
 
 69 
 
 
 561 
 
 64 
 
 Clear. 
 Clear 
 
 <• it 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 76 
 
 81 
 
 
 66 
 
 69 
 
 " 17ih. 
 
 tt a 
 
 
 58 
 
 
 17 
 
 [82 
 
 8 
 
 |78 
 
 75 
 
 Clear. 
 
 " 18th. 
 
 Head Uiv. St. Mary 
 
 
 5rt| 
 
 70 
 
 76| | 
 
 68J 
 
 67 
 
 ilainThuiiiler&c 
 
 395 
 66° i 
 
 Tieandai.heat.j
 
 143 
 
 to six hours. In the mean time the rain fell in tor- 
 rents, attended with very frequent peals of the most 
 severe and appalling thunder. At one in the after- 
 noon, the weather was perfectly clear and delight- 
 ful, when we again embarked. The entrance into 
 Lake Superior was now in full view, presenting a 
 scene of beauty and magnificence which is rarely 
 surpassed, even amid the rugged scenery of the north. 
 The river St. Mary here issues from a deep bay of 
 the lake, and passes out between two high promon- 
 tories called Point Iroquois,* and the Grand Cape, 
 which appear, at some remote period of the crea- 
 tion, to have been rent asunder, by one of those 
 unaccountable convulsions which have produced. 
 so much confusion upon the surface of the earth. 
 This opinion is rendered probable from the ge- 
 neral course, elevation, and other appearances of 
 the chain of mountains which here runs parallel 
 with the lake shore, and I regret that we were 
 not permitted to land and examine the geologi- 
 cal appearances of the rock strata on both sides, 
 in order to detect a physical analogy which is now 
 only conjectural. I felt this regret the more sensi- 
 bly, as my expectations had previously been excited 
 by the account of an important mineral discover}', 
 which Henry states to have been formerly made at 
 the foot of the southern promontory, which is Point 
 Iroquois.t But these considerations, wer%merged 
 
 * This point takes its name from the circumstance of a large 
 party of Iroquois Indians having suffered a signal defeat upon it, 
 from a body of Fox's, Ottagamies, and Chippeways. So say Car- 
 ver and Henry. 
 
 f The following extract embraces the notice alluded to. " Mr. 
 Norburg, a Russian gentleman, acquainted with metal? and hold- 
 ing a commission in the 60th Regt. and then in garrison at Michi
 
 144 
 
 in objects of greater moment, and alter our long de- 
 tention by the storm, and the favourable wind we now 
 enjoyed, the advantages of a speculative enquiry, or 
 the chance of falling upon a useful discovery, oppos- 
 ed too feeble an argument for a further, and to be 
 useful, a more considerable detention. On passing 
 this point, the lake spread like a sea before us. To- 
 wards the north, we could discern across the 
 bay the distant highlands which border the Cana- 
 dian shore of the lake, while on the south the moun- 
 tain chain extending from the head of the river 
 St. Mary, westward, towered majestically into the 
 air, and presented a fine contrast to the bound- 
 less expanse of waters at its base. In coasting 
 along the shore for fifteen miles we passed the 
 mouth of Tanquamenon river, with a small island 
 of the same name lying off* its mouth, and proceed- 
 ed three leagues beyond where we encamped at 
 eleven o'clock at night, at the mouth of Shelldrake 
 river, having advanced altogether a distance of thir- 
 ty-four miles. We generally kept within a mile of 
 the shore, and often much nearer so that it was con- 
 stantly in plain sight. The shore of the lake thus 
 far is sandy, without large pebbles, and with no bluff 
 rocks at the water's edge, although the highlands a 
 few miles back, rise 10 a great height. The growth 
 of timber is pine, hemlock, (pinus canadensis) oak r 
 aspen, , ^(pl birch. At Shelldrake river, we found se- 
 
 limackinae, accompanied us on this expedition. As we rambled 
 among the shads cyr loose stones in search of minerals, Mr. Nor- 
 burg chanced to find one of fight pounds weight, of a blue colour, 
 and semi-transparent, rhis he carried to England, where it pro- 
 duced in the proportio of sixty pounds of silver to a hundred 
 weight of ore. It was reposited in the British Museum." 
 
 Henry's Travels, p. 231-
 
 145 
 
 vera! lodges of Chippeway Indians, who are drawn to 
 this spot by the advantages of taking fish at the 
 mouth of the river ; they appeared friendly — pre- 
 sented us some dried white fish, and received in re- 
 turn, some tobacco. 
 
 XXVII. Day.— -(June 19th.)— At the moment we 
 were prepared to embark, a number of northwest 
 barges, worked with oars, were descried approach- 
 ing from the west, and we concluded to await their 
 arrival. It proved to be Mr. Morrison, an agent of 
 the American Fur Company, with five heavy barges 
 laden with furs from the Fond du Lac department, 
 on his annual return to Michilimackinac. From him 
 we obtained information respecting the best route 
 of communication from the head waters of Lake 
 Superior to those of the Mississippi, with some va- 
 luable topographical memoranda, and in consequence 
 did not leave Sheldrake river until eight o'clock. 
 We had scarcely gone a league when we met eigh- 
 teen or twenty canoes of Chippeway Indians on 
 their way to the Sault cle St. Marie and Michilimack- 
 inac. Always expecting some presents on such oc- 
 casions, they were anxious for a conference and 
 made si^ns for us to stop, and some of their canoes 
 came along side, but sailing with a good wind, we 
 passed on. At the distance of nine miles we turned 
 White Fish Point, which is a barren peninsula of 
 sand, stretching a considerable distance into the 
 lake, with a few aspen trees, and rising in some pla- 
 ces in naked hills of sand, which the wind is contin- 
 ually whirling into the air, and depositing in banks 
 and ridges, like drifting snow. Here a considerable 
 alteration of course brought the wind directly ahead, 
 
 19
 
 146 
 
 Bp that we were compelled to lower sail, and in a 
 short time, a storm approaching from the west, drove 
 us to land. While thus detained an express from the 
 Sault de St. Marie, overtook us bringing letters tor 
 the Governor, &c. It was a bark canoe, very light, 
 and strongly manned, and after tarrying a couple of 
 hours, was despatched back. In the mean while, the 
 wind had subsided, and after progressing ten miles we 
 encamped upon the sand. The shore of the lake has 
 been, thus far, a perfect sand bank, without a pebble 
 to variegate the beach, but with patches of iron-sand, 
 (the black paper sand of commerce) abundantly dis- 
 persed over a broad and level beach. At a short, 
 distance back from the lake, a thin stratum of vege- 
 table mould has accumulated upon the sand and sus- 
 tains a forest of pines, spruce, birch, and aspen, but 
 the humble growth indicates the sterility of the soil. 
 
 XXVIII. Day.— (June 20th.)— We left our encamp- 
 ment this morning at half past five. In going twelve 
 miles, we reached the mouth of Two-Hearted riv- 
 er, a small stream not navigable with canoes ; and 
 seven leagues beyond passed the outlet of a ve- 
 ry extensive marsh, called the Grande Marrais. Im- 
 mediately west of this commences the Grand Sable, 
 a lofty ridge of naked sand extending nine miles 
 along the shore, and presenting a steep acclivity to- 
 wards the lake. Its medium height, as estimated by 
 Dr. Wolcott of the expedition, is three hundred feet, 
 and it presents a novel and interesting appearance 
 from the lake. The views, however, although ge- 
 nerally commanding, present a great uniformity, and 
 leave upon the mind a strong impression of bleak- 
 ness and desolation. Even the few bushes and trees
 
 147 
 
 which are occasionally seen, serve to increase this 
 effect by their impoverished growth, while the birds 
 of prey which we observed hovering around these 
 bleak sandy heights, could hardly be considered as 
 ameliorating the dreariness of the prospect. The 
 bald eagle perched upon a shattered tree half bu- 
 ried in the sand, looked down upon us in security, 
 fro n a height of three hundred feet, while the noisy 
 raven, and the slow sailing falcon, were perpetually 
 upon the wing. These birds are generally drawn 
 toge f her upon elevated bluffs and barren heights, 
 that they may more easily discover and be directed 
 to their prey, either in the adjoining waters or uyon 
 the land, and at the same time they are thus protect- 
 ed from the unseen approach of their enemies. But 
 it may be doubted whether they do not always add 
 to the forbidding appearances of such scenes as are 
 naturally sterile, and destitute of vegetation. There 
 is, however, no scene wholly without attractions, 
 and by an admirable arrangement in the works of 
 nature, what is denied to bleak places in vegetable 
 beauty, is often supplied in the rarity of animated na- 
 ture, or in the order of the unorganized strata of min- 
 eral matter ; and it is in the latter respect, that the 
 Grand Sable affords an interesting object of con- 
 sideration. It is composed of three layers of sand, 
 lying horizontally, and distinctly marked as sepa- 
 rate deposits. The first stratum rising from the wa- 
 ter, is a light yellow silicious sand, unmixed, and 
 about one hundred and fifty feet in depth ; then 
 succeeds a deposit of the same substance, very much 
 mixed with pebbles of granite, hornblende, lime- 
 stone, and quartz ; and this forms the distinguishing 
 mark of the middle stratum, which may be eighty
 
 14U 
 
 ieet in thickness. The upper stratum is loose yel* 
 Jow sand, in every respect similar to the first or low- 
 er deposit, except that it is continually acted upon 
 by the winds, and contains imbedded trunks of trees, 
 some of which remain in the position in which they 
 grew, but have been buried by drifting sand nearly to 
 their tops, and thus killed. The depth of this top-stra- 
 tum may be estimated at sixty or seventy feet. 1 have 
 made all these estimates, however, on the assumed al- 
 titude of the entire bank, as before stated, and although 
 this may be incorrect, yet the relative thickness of 
 the three strata, may thus, with tolerable accuracy, 
 be judged. It is impossible to view these stupen- 
 dous sand hills, without being at the same time 
 strongly impressed with the idea that they owe their 
 arrangement and present order of superposition to 
 the agency of water, and that this fluid has at some 
 former period covered their highest tops. Dr. Wol- 
 cott, who with considerable labour ascended these 
 sandy eminences, discovered a small lake of pure 
 water, at no great distance back, and on his return 
 presented me several mineral specimens, picked up 
 during the excursion, which bear the appearances of 
 volcanic origin, together with a couple of specimens 
 of corralline petrifactions. The specimens which 
 suggest the idea of volcanic production, appear to be 
 granitic aggregates semi-vitrified, at least, on the sur- 
 face, which possesses the smoothness and gloss of 
 common glass. Some of these specimens are 
 black, without gloss, harsh to the touch, and vesi- 
 cular, resembling certain lavas, but all possess a con- 
 siderable specific gravity, and will sink in water.* 
 
 * I have not been able since my return to submit these speci- 
 mens to '.he examination of any accurate mineralogist, or to uu
 
 149 
 
 These hints may serve to direct the attention of fu- 
 ture travellers to this subject, which I have only to 
 regret other objects ot the expedition did not allow 
 us leisure to investigate. 
 
 On passing along the coast of the Grand Sable, 
 we observed, through the water which is very trans- 
 parent, large tabular rocks, in situ, at the bottom of 
 the lake beneath our canoes, and on encamping a 
 short distance west of the termination of these sand 
 banks, at La Pointe La Grand Sable, we found, appa- 
 rently, a similar rock, jutting out upon the shore of 
 the lake, and rising to an elevation of eight or ten 
 feet above the water. On examination, this prov- 
 ed to be a variegated sand stone in horizontal' strata, 
 tolerably compact, and consisting of coarse grains 
 of silicious sand, united apparently by an argilla- 
 ceous cement. Its colour is white or red, arrang- 
 ed in spots and stripes. No traces of shells or cor- 
 rallines, could here be detected in the rock. It is 
 covered by an alluvial deposit of a few feet in depth 
 bearing cedars, pines, hemlock, and birch, with 
 some beech, oak, and maple interspersed. We en- 
 camped on a beach of sand, near the entrance of a 
 small creek, which, from a violent storm that raged 
 during the night, was called Hurricane creek. This 
 storm had threatened us before reaching the land, 
 and in a short time after, the wind raged with 
 the utmost violence, and threw the lake into such 
 disorder, that the water drove into the Governor's 
 
 dertake myself any experiment upon their composition, and am not 
 therefore prepared to decide upon their mineralogical character. 
 There is some reason to conclude, that the glossy specimens owe 
 their lustre to the effects of water, although from their indented 
 surface, it could not have been effected by common attrition.
 
 150 
 
 marque, pitched fifty yards from the margin, and 
 lashed it down. At the same time the thunder was 
 very frequent and severe, and when the fury of the 
 gale abated, a heavy rain drenched every part of our 
 camp. 
 
 XXIX. Day. — (June 2]st.) — The rain still conti- 
 nued at early day light, and the sea-like swells of 
 the lake broke furiously upon the shore long after 
 the wind had entirely ceased. At sun rise the at- 
 mosphere began to assume its usual serenity, the 
 clouds broke away rapidly, and before eight o'clock 
 we had the most delightful weather. It was eleven, 
 however, before the lake regained sufficient tran- 
 quillity to permit us to embark. A perfect calm now 
 reigned in the atmosphere, and we continued the 
 voyage with renovated spirits. On going three 
 leagues, we reached the commencement of the Pic- 
 tured Rocks, (La Portaillt, of the French Voyageurs,) 
 a series of lofty blulFs, which continue for twelve 
 miles along the shore, and present some of the most 
 sublime and commanding views in nature. We had 
 been told, by our Canadian guide, of the variety in 
 the colour and form of these rocks, but were wholly 
 unprepared to encounter the surprising groupes of 
 overhanging precipices, towering walls, caverns, 
 water falls, and prostrate ruins, which are here min- 
 gled in the most wonderful disorder, and burst upon 
 the view in ever-varying and pleasing succession. 
 Jri order to convey any just idea of their magnifi- 
 cence, it is necessary to premise, that this part of 
 the shore consists of a sand stone rock of a 
 lig'it grey colour internally, and deposited stra- 
 tum super-stratum to the height of three hundred
 
 1/51 
 
 feet, rising in a perpendicular wall from the water, 
 and extending from four to five leagues in length. 
 This rock is made up of coarse grains of sand, 
 united by a calcareous cement, and occasionally 
 imbedding pebbles of quartz and other water- 
 worn fragments of rocks, but adhering with a 
 feeble force, and, where exposed to the weather, 
 easily crushed between the fingers. Externally, it 
 presents a great variety of colour, as black, red, 
 yellow, brown, and white, particularly along the 
 most permanent parts of the shore, but where mass- 
 es have newly fallen, its colour is a light grey.* In 
 no place does the recent fracture disclose any traces 
 of red, and the variety of outward colouring is ow- 
 ing partly to mineral waters which appear to 
 have oozed out of the crevices of the rock, but main- 
 ly, to the washing down of the banks of coloured 
 clay from the superincumbent soil. Thus, although 
 a great variety of surface is presented, there is, in 
 reality, none in its geological character.t This stu- 
 pendous wall of rock, exposed to the fury of the 
 
 * Adhering too rigidly to the definitions of those geologists who 
 consider graywacke as consisting'' essentially of grains of quartz, 
 cemented together by indurated clay," I was inclined, at the mo- 
 ment, to apply the term to this stratum of rock. But a subsequent 
 examination of my specimens proves that it is composed essential- 
 ly of grains of quartz cemented by a calcareous substance. It 
 preserves also the granular structure, friability, and uniformity of 
 composition of common sand stone, although the white colour and 
 limey consistence of the cementing matter, gives it, on the first 
 glance, an appearance foreign to this class of rocks. 
 
 f In this, respect, (the variety of external colours,) it resembles 
 the Cal.co Rock, which I have formerly noticed upon the banks of 
 White River, in Arkai saw Territory. — Sze the New-York Monthly 
 Journal and Belles LeUns Repository,
 
 15% 
 
 waves, which are driven up by every north wind 
 across the whole width of Lake Superior, has been 
 partially prostrated at several points, and worn out 
 into numerous bays, and irregular indentations. All 
 these front upon the lake, in a line of aspiring pro- 
 montories, which, at a distance, present the terrible 
 array of dilapidated battlements and desolate tow- 
 ers. 
 
 " Their rooky summits split and rent, 
 
 " Form'd turret, dome, or battlement, 
 
 " Or seemed fantastically set 
 
 '* With cupola or minaret, 
 
 " Wild crests as pagod ever decked, 
 
 " Or mosque of eastern architect." 
 
 in some places the waves have lashed down the 
 lower strata, while the upper ones hang in a threat- 
 ening posture over the lake ; in others, extensive 
 caverns have been worn into the rock, and in this 
 way rocky bluffs, nearly severed from the main, or 
 left standing upon rude and massy pillars, between 
 which barges and canoes might with safety sail. All 
 that we have read of the natural physiognomy of 
 the Hebrides — of Stafla, — the Doreholm, and the 
 romantic Isles of the Sicilian coast, is forcibly re- 
 called on viewing this scene, and it may be doubt- 
 ed whether, in the whole range of American scen- 
 ery, there is to be found such an interesting as- 
 semblage of grand, picturesque, and pleasing ob- 
 jects. Among many striking features, two attracted 
 particular admiration, — the Cascade La Portaille, 
 and the Doric Arch. The cascade is situated about 
 four miles beyond the commencement of the rai ge 
 of bluQs. and in the centre of the most commanding
 
 *
 
 Do 
 
 part of it. It consists of a handsome stream, which 
 is precipitated about seventy feet from the bluff into 
 the lake at one leap. Its form is that of a rain bow, ris- 
 ing from the lake, to the top of the precipice. We 
 passed near the point of its fall upon the surface of 
 the lake, and could have gone, unwetted, between it 
 and the locks, as it is thrown a considerable distance 
 into the lake. The Doric Rock, of which a profile is 
 given on the title page, is an isolated mass of sand 
 stone, consisting ot four natural pillars, supporting a 
 stratum or entablature of the same material, and 
 presenting the appearance of a work of art. On 
 the top of this entablature rests a stratum of al- 
 luvial soil, covered with a handsome growth of pine 
 and spruce trees, some of which appear to be fifty or 
 sixty feet in height. To add to the factitious ap- 
 pearance of the scene, that part of the entablature 
 included between the pillars is excavated in the 
 form of a common arch, giving it very much the 
 appearance of a vaulted passage into the court yard 
 of some massy pile of antiquated buildings. A lit- 
 tle to the west of this rock, the Miners River enters 
 the lake by a winding channel, overshadowed with 
 trees, and intersected by a succession of small ra- 
 pids. 
 
 The annexed view, (Plate IV.) represents a range 
 of bluffs, immediately west of the Doric Rock, as 
 viewed from the lake, and embraces some of the 
 wonderful excavations which diversify this part of 
 the coast. Grand Isle appears in perspective. 
 
 In passing these rocks, one of our voyageurs pick- 
 ed up, upon the shore, and brought to me, a green 
 translucent pebble, of a spheroidal figure, and two 
 ounces in weight. A subsequent examination of this 
 
 20
 
 J 54 
 
 mineral induces me to consider it as Prase, winch U 
 arratiged by Cleaveland, as a sub-species of quartz. 
 Its colour is a light uniform leek green, and fully 
 translucent. It has a quartzy hardness, and some- 
 what of a waxy lustre, but exhibits no appearances 
 of a crystalline structure, — its spheroidal shape is 
 owing to attrition. This mineral is stated to owe 
 its colour to actynolite, or epidote, and to be some- 
 times employed in jewelry. May not the oxyd of 
 copper be the colouring ingredient in some cases ? 
 
 In landing in one of the coves to examine the geo- 
 logical appearances, and procure specimens of the 
 rock, I found, among an infinite variety of pebbles, 
 which are washed up on the beach, several fragments 
 ofcarnehan, and a species of hornstone jasper, in al- 
 ternate bands of red, black, &c. These appearances 
 created a desire, which it was impossible, however, 
 to satisiy, of making a more minute examination of 
 the mineralogy of the coast. It is considered a dan- 
 gerous pass when there is any wind on the lake, as 
 there are very lew places where a landing can be 
 effected. The day, however, notwithstanding the 
 boi c terous weather of the morning, proved calm and 
 pleasant, and we proceeded two leagues beyond the 
 termination of this picturesque shore, and encamp- 
 ed on Grand Island, in n large, deep, and beautiful 
 bay, completely land locked. Here we found a vil- 
 lage of Chippeway Indians, who, as soon as we land- 
 ed, came from their lodges to bid us welcome. They 
 manifes ed the most friendly disposition towards the 
 party, and towards the United States; and when 
 they were told of our objects in visiting their 
 country, appeared highly ; loused. The prompti- 
 tude with which they olfered the pipe of peace, left
 
 155 
 
 no doubt of their sincerity, and their subsequent 
 conduct evinced that they felt themselves flatter- 
 ed by our visit. In the evening they assembled 
 in our camp, to shew their skill in dancing, up- 
 on which they all pride themselves, and spent some- 
 time in this amusement, which is also done as a 
 mark of respect. In these testive feats, they were 
 accompanied by their own music, consisting of a kind 
 of tambarine, and a hollow gourd, filled with peb- 
 bles, while one of the number beat time upon a 
 stick, and all joined in the Indian chant. There is 
 something animating in the Indian chorus, and at 
 the same time, it lias an air of melancholy, but cer- 
 tainly nothing can be more monotonous, or farther 
 removed from our ideas of music. These ceremo- 
 nies lasted sometime, and were rather an annoyance 
 to the party, to whom they presented nothing novel, 
 and as is usual, were only a prelude to the custom- 
 ary presents of whiskey and tobacco. We found 
 these Indians very poor, both as to clothing and 
 provisions, but were struck with their manly 
 figure and beautiful proportions. During the eve- 
 ning several speeches were addressed to the Go- 
 vernor, in the course of which we were told that 
 they had lately returned from a war excursion 
 against the Sioux, in which they had lost a number 
 of warriors, but that they had fallen like brave men, 
 and were worthy of being called Chippeways. It 
 appears that the Indians of Grand Island had been 
 reproached by the northern bands of the tribe for 
 not taking a more active part in the war which has 
 been so long waged between the Chippeways and 
 the Sioux. To wipe off this stain, they determined to 
 make an irruption into the Sioux country, without
 
 156 
 
 giving notice to any other part of the tribe, that they 
 might claim the exclusive merit of their warlike 
 deeds. Accordingly, a party of thirteen warriors 
 proceeded, by the most unfrequented paths, into the 
 midst of the Sioux territories, without meeting with 
 any opposition, or exciting any premature alarm. 
 Here, however, at a time when they did not expect 
 it, they suddenly encountered a large war party of 
 their enemies, amounting to ten times their number. 
 As a negotiation of peace had been commenced be- 
 tween the two tribes, the Sioux were disposed to re- 
 ceive them as friends, and were very much surprised 
 to hear them declare that they had left their homes 
 on a war excursion, — that they had come a great way 
 to meet them,—- that they wanted to test their cou- 
 rage, — and that they rejoiced there was now an op- 
 portunity presented. The Sioux replied that ihey 
 thought the Chippeways were tired of a long war, 
 in which so much blood had been spilt, — that they 
 were too few in number to hope for any success, 
 and had belter retire in peace to their own ter- 
 ritories, as their destruction was otherwise inevi- 
 table. The Chippeways were, however, determin- 
 ed in their hostility, and had prepared themselves to 
 die, and to sell their lives at the dearest rate, and 
 the next morning attacked the Sioux in their camp. 
 In a short time they were driven back to the place 
 where they had determined to make a final stand, 
 and which they had previously fortified by digging- 
 two large holes or intrenchments in the ground, 
 capable of affording them a partial shelter. Into 
 these intrenchments they retired, and maintained 
 the unequal contest until they had expended their 
 ammunition, and killed more than double their
 
 157 
 
 number, when the Sioux surrounded their intrench- 
 ments, and dispatched the survivors with their 
 tomahawks. Of the number that retired into these 
 holes, not one escaped, but they kept up a destructive 
 fire upon their enemies, while their ammunition last- 
 ed, for they were protected during the time they re- 
 tired to reload their guns. To transmit the fame of 
 this exploit to their nation, they had appointed the 
 youngest warrior of their number to watch on an 
 adjoining hill, and when their fate was terminated, to 
 carry the news to their friends. By this it seems 
 that they had previously determined to die in their 
 intrenchments. This messenger had not been long 
 returned, when we reached Grand Island, where he 
 sung the exploits of his departed friends, fie was 
 a tall and beautiful youth, with a manly countenance, 
 expressive eyes, and formed with the most perfect 
 symmetry, — and among all the tribes of Indians 
 whom I have visited, I never felt, for any individual, 
 such a mingled feeling of interest and admiration. 
 
 XXX. Day. — (June 2'2d.) — We embarked at six 
 o'clock in the morning, the weather clear and calm. 
 On coming out of the bay of Grand Island, we pass- 
 ed a small wooded island on the right, and on turn- 
 ing a point of land, traversed a bay of four leagues 
 across, in the centre of which is situated the Isle aux 
 Trains, and opposite to it, in the extremity of the bay, 
 the River aux Trains discharges into the lake. 
 On turning the next point, we put into a little bay 
 and entered the mouth of Laughing Fish river, which 
 is twenty yards wide, deep, — with reddish water, 
 and a sandy shore. Near it are several large 
 syvamps, which maintain a connexion with Lake
 
 lijii 
 
 Superior, through this little river, and a singular 
 ebbing and flowing of its tide, is produced by the 
 Swells of the lake. This flux and reflux, was observ- 
 ed three times during our stay, a space of thirty or 
 forty minutes. On leaving this we turned a promi- 
 nent point of land, and steered N. 70° W. across a 
 large bay in which are successively discharged Cho- 
 colate, Dead.* and Presque Isle rivers, all of which lay 
 to the left of our track, and encamped on a ooint of 
 land, which, from the first appearance of that rock, I 
 shall denominate Granite Point. The distance across 
 this bay, in a direct line, is eighteen miles, but by 
 following the indentations of the shore, which is the 
 usual route, it is fifty-one. The shore of the lake 
 continues rocky from Grand Isle, to near Laughing 
 Fish river, which is bordered by sandy plains. The 
 rocks are red sand stone ; on Isle aux Trains they 
 dip towards the northeast. The forest trees are 
 chiefly pine, hemlock, spruce, and birch. On reach- 
 ing Granite Point a new scene presents itself. Here- 
 a bluffof granite rising out of the lake to a height of 
 two hundred feet, is connected to the shore by a 
 neck of land consisting of red and grey sand stone, in 
 horizontal layers. This granite is made up of red 
 feldspar, quartz, and a little mica, and very much mix- 
 ed with hornblende. It lies in a confused bed, pre- 
 ;-« ting perpendicular fissures, and traversed by re- 
 gular veins of greenstone trap. These veins of green- 
 stone vary from two to thirty feet in width, and are 
 disposed to break in irregular columnar fragments, 
 resembling, in some degree, the columns of true 
 basalt. The sand stone laps upon the granite, and 
 fits into its irregular indentations in a manner that 
 
 * At the mouth of this river, Iron Pyrites of a brass yellow colour; 
 9 rid metalic brilliancy, is found.
 
 160 
 
 est formations. Its position would indicate a near 
 alliance to the " old red sand stone." Werner has 
 consrdered this rock in all situations as secondary. 
 Bakewell places it in the class of transition rocks, in 
 which he is followed by McClure and by Eaton. I 
 am not prepared to decide upon a point upon which 
 my opportunities of observation have as yet been lim- 
 ited, and there appears to be something so objectional 
 in the dogmatism with which these things are usually 
 stated, that I shall content myself, in the present in- 
 stance, with the bare recital of the facts above enu_ 
 merated. 
 
 XXXI. Day. — (June 23//.} — The morning was cloudy 
 and hazy, but we did not suffer these appearances 
 to deter us from quitting our encampment at an ear- 
 ly hour. In a few moments after getting under way, 
 a fair breeze arose, and we proceeded to the next 
 prominent point, a distance of five leagues, in three 
 hours. Here we again saw granite rock overlayed 
 by sand stone. The wind now flagging, we went un- 
 der oars to the mouth of Huron river, a distance of 
 eleven leagues, where we encamped at four in the 
 afternoon, in consequence of rain. In the course of 
 the day, we have successively passed the Garlic, St, 
 John's, Salmon Trout, and Pine rivers, all streams 
 of secondary magnitude, and originating in highlands 
 at no great distance from the lake. These high- 
 lands which have been visible with the naked * ye,ap- 
 pear from inspection with a glass, to consist of rug- 
 ged peaks of granite. Off the Huron rsver, at the dis- 
 tance of five or six miles in the lake, lie the pictur- 
 esque cluster of Huron Islands. They appear to be 
 high, rocky, and barren, with some trees. Among the
 
 i5a 
 
 shews it to have assumed that position subsequently 
 to the upheaving of the granite. Its horizontality 
 is perfectly preserved even to the immediate point 
 of contact, which is laid bare to the view. A 
 mutual decomposition for a courle of inches, into 
 each rock has taken place Dipping under the sand 
 stone, the granite again rises on the contiguous coast 
 in high, rough, and broken hills. All thi* is hand- 
 somely disclosed by a natural transverse section of 
 the country, upon the rocky shore of the lake, and 
 the peninsula, connecting it with Granite Point. 
 This will give to the annexed view, (Plate V.) a va- 
 lue which geological sections, and suppositional 
 charts, it must be conceded, too often lack. The 
 entire width of the point may be estimated at half a 
 mile, and that of the neck of land connecting it with 
 the shore at two hui dred yards. A sandy alluvion 
 rests upon the whole, covered with yellow pine, 
 {pinus resinosa.) As to the geological age oi the sand 
 stone, I possess no means of forming a decisive 
 opinion. It consists of grains of quart/ or sand, unit- 
 ed by a calcareous cement, and coloured by the 
 red oxyd of iron. Its colour is a brick red, and it 
 possesses the compactness and grain of freestone. 
 In some places it imbeds pebbles of quartz of the 
 size of a pigeon's egg, together with rounded masses 
 of hornblende and other rocks, and it then resem- 
 bles the pudding stone. It has no imbedded re- 
 lics of the animal or vegetable kingdom, so far as 
 observed, but this is not always conclusive of the 
 age of a rock viewed at a give ? point, for it is known 
 thai these relics are never uniformly distributed 
 throughout the substance of rocks, even of the new-
 
 \ I 
 
 161 
 
 objects surrounding our encampment, an Indian 
 grave, near the mouth of the Huron river, excited 
 our curiosity. It was paled in with pine saplings, 
 sharpened at the top, and regularly inclosing it in 
 the form of a parrallelogram. A covering of bark 
 bent over small poles in the form of a roof, secured 
 the grave from the effects of the weather, and a 
 blazed stake at one end, denoted the head. Be- 
 tween this stake and the grave, a smoothly cut piece 
 of cedar wood with several Indian devices, served 
 the purposes of a monumental record, upon which 
 the figure of a bear denoted either the name of the 
 deceased chief, or the tribe to which he belonged. 
 Seven red marks were interpreted to signify that he 
 had been seven times in battle. Other marks were not 
 understood. It is probable, however, that they were 
 commemorative of some of the most striking events 
 of his life, which we are led to conclude, from these 
 extraordinary marks of respect, had been devoted 
 to the service of his tribe, or distinguished for some 
 extraordinary achievements in hunting. This grave 
 is situated on a sandy plain, which extends for many 
 miles to the west of the Huron, and is covered prin- 
 cipally with a growth of yellow pine. Among the 
 shrubs and plants, the pyrola rotundifolia, or com- 
 mon winter green, is very abundant, and we here first 
 noticed a creeping plant called kinni-kinick by the 
 Indians, which is used as a substitute for tobacco. 
 This plant appears to have escaped the notice of 
 the indefatigable Pursh, nor do I find a; )y description 
 of it in Micheaux, or Eaton. It is a creeping ever- 
 green with an ovate leaf, of a deep green colour, and 
 velvet-like appearance, and is common to sandy 
 soils. I suspect it to be a new variety of chiniaphila* 
 
 21
 
 IG2 
 
 The Indians prepare it by drying the leaf over a 
 moderate fire, and bruising it between the fingers so 
 that it, in some degree, resembles cut tobacco. In 
 this state it is smoked, and is very mild and pleas- 
 ant. They, however, prefer mixing it with a portion 
 of the common tobacco, {nicotiana tahacuni) or per- 
 haps ii is done with a view to economy. As the kin- 
 nikinick only flourishes on sandy grounds, it is not 
 always to be procured, in which case they employ 
 other substances, the most common of which is the 
 bark scraped off the small red twigs of the acer spi- 
 catuiii or maple bush. Certain species of willows 
 are also resorted to. 
 
 XXXII. Day. — (June 24th.) — From Huron river it 
 is eighteen miles to Keweena Point, which extends- 
 forty five miles into the lake, and is by far the u:ost 
 striking feature in the topography of the southern 
 shore of Lake Superior. It has sometimes been con- 
 founded by geographers and travellers with PointChe- 
 goimegon, which is a hundred and thirty miles further 
 west, and the latter name loosely applied to either 
 Point. Among those who have fallen into this er- 
 ror is Carver, who describes the copper mine, or 
 Ontonagon river- as railing into the lake a hundred 
 miles west of Point Chegoimegon, (Carver's Travels 
 p. 67 ) whereas it is found to be a little more than 
 hall that distance, west of Keweena. Henry, and 
 McKenzie, have both drawn the proper distinction. 
 In coasting around this point it is estimated to be 
 ninety miles, but canoes shorten the journey by as- 
 cending the Portage river, which neariy insulates 
 the point from the main shore, and make a port :ge 
 of less than a mile into the lake west of the Point. To
 
 1G3 
 
 the east of this point there is a large bay twelve miles 
 wide by twenty in length, called Keweena bay, which 
 it is necessary to cross in order to reach the Port- 
 age river. The route from Huron river, is first six 
 miles west to Point Abbaye, which is the eastern cape 
 of Keweena bay, then we coast three leagues up the 
 eastern shore, and make a traverse of twelve miles 
 to the mouth of Portage river. This is often a dan- 
 gerous passage when the weather is not perfectly 
 settled, and was found so in the present instance. 
 On turning point Abbaye we found a fresh breeze 
 blowing directly ahead, but not apprehending any 
 increase, and anxious to make as little delay as pos- 
 sible, we progressed up the bay the usual distance, 
 and commenced the traverse without hesitation. 
 When, however, only a league from land, the wind 
 had increased to a strong breeze,which raised a con- 
 siderable swell, and before we were half way across, 
 the bay presen ted a sheet of loam, and our canoes were 
 tossed about with scarcely the power of controlling 
 them. A perfect gale prevailed, and every moment 
 seemed to add to its violence. The swells broke fre- 
 quently across our canoes, so that one hand was con- 
 stantly necessary to bail it out, and we expected them 
 to be broke in two at every succeeding swell. In 
 this dilemma it appeared almost equally hazardous 
 to turn back, or to progress, we were about an equal 
 distance from either shore, with the wind blowing 
 directly ahead ; and the conductors of the different 
 canoes were left to use their own discretion. Three, 
 out of five canoes turned back, and reached the 
 shore in satety, with some injury to the canoes. The 
 other two, consisting of the Governor's and that un=
 
 164 
 
 der the command of Lieutenant TVlackay, to which I 
 was attached, after an exertion which exhausted the 
 strength of every person on board, reached the 
 mouth of Portage river, and encamped upon the 
 beach before sun down. Distance 30 miles. 
 
 XXXIII. Day. — (June 2. r )th.) — The canoes which 
 were driven back by the winds yesterday, joined us 
 this morning at seven o'clock, when we commenced 
 the ascent of the Portage river. This is a stream of 
 50 yards wide, with a good depth of water. At the 
 distance of six miles it expands into a lake which is 
 twelve miles long, and from two to four in width, 
 narrowing to about half a mile towards its head. 
 Here a small stream enters which is just wide enough 
 to admit a canoe to be worked with paddles. It is 
 very serpentine in its course, and overhung with al- 
 ders and shrubbery, with fallen trees in the channel, 
 so that the ascent is attended with some difficulty. 
 This stream is ascended six miles to its source in a 
 bog meadow, during the latter part of which the ca- 
 noes are dragged along through mud and water in a 
 channel which is only w ide enough for that purpose, 
 and appears to have been partly formed by the voy- 
 ngeurs of former days. From this to the lake, there 
 is a portage of two thousand yards, which is passed 
 at two Pauses,* the first of which is swampy, and the 
 
 * A Pause (pronounced poze) is a resting: place for the voya- 
 geurs, and is computed to be half a mile, but this depends some- 
 what upon local circumstances. If the country is very swampy or 
 hilly, the pause is much shorter, and over a fine level country it is 
 often three fourths of a mile. These stopping places are, however, 
 regularly marked upon all the travelled portages so that they are 
 always spoken of in the colloquial language of the region, as car- 
 rying places of one, two, or more pauses. Miles are wholly out of
 
 IG5 
 
 ether a dry sandy soil covered with tall pines. We 
 reached the lake at an early hour in the afternoon, 
 and formed our encampment upon the gravelly 
 shore. The voyageurs and soldiers were employed 
 in carrying baggage until dark, but did not complete 
 the labour. 
 
 XXXIV. Day.— (June 26th.)— The forenoon of this 
 day was occupied in carrying the remainder of the 
 baggage and canoes across the portage. In the af- 
 ternoon a head wind prevented our embarkation. 
 While we were sitting upon a bank of clean pebbles 
 upon the shore, at dinner, and admiring the variety 
 of beautiful water-worn pebbles, I picked up a frag- 
 ment of beautiful carnelian, and this gave the hint 
 for making a search, in which a great number were 
 afterwards found by different individuals of the par- 
 ty. I also discovered, while loitering along the shore, 
 a mass of native copper, of nearly two pounds weight, 
 attached to a water worn mass of serpentine rock, 
 and a number of smaller pieces. Indeed grains of 
 copper disseminated through pebbles of serpentine 
 rock, are very common at this place, but this metal 
 has not been observed in association with any other 
 species of rock. Radiated zeolite, crystallized 
 quartz, chalcedony, prase, jasper, opal, agate, and 
 sardonyx, are also among the minerals picked up 
 along this part of the shore. Of the specimens of 
 carnelian, I procured several imbedded in rolled 
 pebbles of amygdaloid, and in one instance, observ- 
 ed this mineral imbedded in a large detached mass 
 
 \he question. Distances are altogether reckoned by leagues or 
 pauses. The pauses are marked upon the carrying paths by 
 iittle circular greens, where the voyageurs set down their packs.
 
 166 
 
 of hornblende rock. All the rock along this shore, 
 however, which was noticed, in situ, is either a red, 
 grey, or variegated sand stone, which appears to be 
 referable to one formation, colour being the only 
 character in which any difference could be perceiv- 
 ed. The very interesting character of the mineral- 
 ogy at this place arrested the attention of several of 
 our party, who had before felt no interest in this 
 study, and from the spirit of imitation, several of the 
 soldiers and voyageurs also turned collectors of spe- 
 cimens. But a greater novelty ensued, the Indians 
 attached to the expedition, on being shewn the sub- 
 stances we were anxious to procure, also undertook 
 the search, and with such good success, that I am in- 
 debted to them for some of the finest specimens I 
 have Irom that locality. This is not the first attention 
 they had manifested to the subject, for on a former 
 occasion they assisted me in chizzeling organic relics 
 from the rock, and seemed to take a delight in being 
 serviceable in that way, although unable to compre- 
 hend the object of these collections. It was impos- 
 sible to find corresponding words in their language 
 to signiiy the benefit to be derived from geological 
 studies, although they were anxious to be informed, 
 and made repeated enquiries There is a general 
 impression among the Indians that we possess the 
 skill of turning nil minerals either into money or me- 
 dicine. My attention to this subject had struck 
 them upon the third or fourth day after our depart- 
 ure from Detroit, when they bestowed upon me a 
 name, at least characteristic of my situation in the 
 expedition.* 
 
 * Paw-gioa-hecaw-e-ga. The destroyer of rocks, or he wh» 
 employs- himself among the rocks. It may be considered as sy- 
 nonymous with the word " Mineralogist."
 
 1G7 
 
 XXXV. Day.— (June 27th.)— We left the head of 
 Keweena Portage at half past lour in the morning, 
 and proceeding with a favourable wind, entered the 
 mouth of the river Ontonagon, at half past three in 
 the afternoon. The distance is fifty-one miles, which 
 gives an average rate of travelling of five miles per 
 hour. In the intermediate space, we successively 
 passed the Little Salmon Trout and Graverod's ri- 
 vers, — La Riviere au Mesiere, and Firesteel river, 
 all streams of secondary size, and not capable of 
 being ascended any considerable distance with ca- 
 noes. The shore is generally sandy alluvion, upon 
 which pines, spruce, and hemlock predominate. At 
 a distance back a ridge of highlands is visible. The 
 entire distance from the Sault de St. Marie, is one 
 hundred and eight leagues, which we have been ten 
 days occupied in travelling, including a detention of 
 three. We have, therefore, made an average pro- 
 gress of forty-six miles per day, a speed, which our 
 voyageurs tell us, is seldom equalled in passing over 
 the same route. During this time, we have had 
 rain, with violent wind, three days, — clear, with 
 moderate wind, five days, — and variable, (calm, 
 misty, cloudy, windy,) three days. The highest de- 
 gree of heat during the same period has been 83°, 
 and the mean temperature, from sun rise to sun set, 
 66°.* The transitions of temperature have often 
 been sudden, and the heat, during the middle of the 
 day, (from eleven to four) generally severe, and some- 
 times almost insupportable Dense fogs have pre- 
 vailed during the morning, and in one or two in- 
 stances, mists have been observed during the day. 
 
 * See the Meteorological Table on the succeeding page
 
 ibC 
 
 Gusts of wind, arising with a momentary warning; 
 have often driven us hastily ashore ; and the whole 
 
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 PS 
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 CAj 
 
 — i 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 169 
 
 route may be characterized as stormy, and yet we 
 are told this is one of the most favourable months 
 for performing the journey. In the autumn it is sel- 
 dom attempted. The winds, which generally pre- 
 vail from the northwest, expose the southern shore 
 to the fury of continual storms. The Canadian shore 
 is more pacific, being sheltered by its elevation, and 
 the voyage on that side is, at all seasons, less liable 
 to accidents and delays. The following table of 
 distances may be found useful to future travellers. 
 It is compiled from the estimates of the voyageurs 
 and traders, as generally agreed upon, but I have 
 reduced their mode of reckoning by French leagues, 
 into miles, and introduced some corrections that ap- 
 peared necessary. 
 
 Of the Stationary Distances between Michilimackinac and the 
 River Ontonagon. 
 
 
 Miles. 1 
 
 'ot. Miles, 
 
 From Michilimackinac to Delour, 
 
 - 
 
 40 
 
 
 Thence to the Sault de St. Marie, 
 
 - 
 
 45 
 
 85 
 
 Point aux Pins, 
 
 - 
 
 6 
 
 91 
 
 Point Iroquois, at the entrance into Lake Si 
 
 iperior, 
 
 9 
 
 100 
 
 Tonquainenon River, 
 
 - 
 
 15 
 
 US 
 
 Shelldrake River, 
 
 - 
 
 9 
 
 124 
 
 White-Fish Point, 
 
 - 
 
 9 
 
 133 
 
 Two- Hearted River, 
 
 - 
 
 24 
 
 157 
 
 Grande Marrais, and commencement of Grande 
 
 
 
 Sables, 
 
 - 
 
 21 
 
 178 
 
 La Point la Grande Sables, 
 
 - 
 
 9 
 
 187 
 
 Pictured Rocks, (La Porta ille,) 
 
 - 
 
 12 
 
 199 
 
 Doric Rock, and Miner's River, 
 
 • 
 
 6 
 
 205 
 
 Grande Island, 
 
 • 
 
 12 
 
 217 
 
 Riv^r aux Trains, 
 
 - 
 
 9 
 
 226 
 
 Isle aux Trains, 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 229 
 
 Laughing-Fish River, 
 
 • 
 
 
 
 235- 
 
 22 
 
 

 
 170 
 
 Miles. Tot. Miles. 
 
 Chocolate River, - 15 250 
 
 Dead River, (In Presque Isle Bay,j - 6 256 
 
 Granite Point, - 6 262 
 
 Garlic River, - 9 271 
 
 St. John's River, - 15 286 
 
 Salmon-Trout, or Burnt River, - 12 298 
 
 Pine River, - 6 304 
 
 Huron River : (Huron Islands lie off this River,) 9 813 
 
 Point Abhaye, (east Cape of Kevveena Bay,) - 6 319 
 
 Mouth of Portage River, - 21 340 
 
 Head of Portage River, (through Keweena Lake,) 24 364 
 
 Lake Superior, at the head of the Portage, - 1 365 
 
 Little Salmon-Trout River, - 9 374 
 
 Graverod's River, (small, with flat rocks at its mouth,) 6 380 
 
 Riviere au Misiere, - 12 392 
 
 Firesteel River, - 18 410 
 
 Ontonagon, or, Copper Mine River, - 6 416
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 VISIT TO THE COPPER MINES. 
 
 XXXV. Day.— (Awe 27th.) 
 
 A HE river Ontonagon, (or 'Tenaugon, as it is fre- 
 quently pronounced,) enters the lake in north latitude 
 46° 52' 2", as determined by Capt. Douglass, and is 
 one of the largest of thirty rivers which are tributary to 
 Lake Superior on its southern shore. It is estimated 
 to be a hundred and twenty miles long, and has a 
 width of two hundred yards, with eight feet depth 
 at its mouth. Indians say they generally walk to its 
 head in three or four days, but on account of nume- 
 rous rapids, it is only ascended in canoes about 
 thirty-six miles, and a portage then made to its 
 source, which is in a small lake called Vieux Desert. 
 This lake has also an outlet into the Menomonic 
 river of Green Bay, and another into the Chippeway 
 river of the Mississippi, by means of which the coun- 
 try is traversed in canoes by the traders and Indians. 
 The lands along thi,« river are generally rough and 
 mountainous, until within three or four leagues of 
 its mouth. Its waters have a reddish colour, like 
 those of the Arkansas, and are moderately turbid ; 
 among its forest trees pine and hemlock predomi- 
 nate, but its most remarkable character is the cop- 
 per, which is found along its banks. This has been
 
 172 
 
 known from the earliest times, and is noticed by all 
 the travellers of the region. La Hontan, Charle- 
 voix, Henry, Carver, and McKenzie, have success- 
 ively published ac(ounts of it, which have served at 
 various periods, to arrest the public attention, and 
 to confer a notoriety upon the country, which it had 
 otherwise certainly lacked. But amid a great ma- 
 ny surmises respecting the extent of the mines, very 
 little iias been with certainty known. To ascertain 
 how far these accounts are founded in truth, and to 
 examine the mineralogy of the adjacent region, was 
 among the primary objects of the present expedition, 
 and on reaching the mouth of the river, the Govern- 
 or determined to loose no time in exploring it. It 
 was past three o'clock in the afternoon, when we 
 entered the mouth* of the river. The expedition was 
 immediately encamped, and Indian guides procured, 
 at the neighbouring village, and at six o'clock, we pro- 
 ceeded in two light canoes up the river, leaving the 
 greater part of our force encamped at the mouth. 
 Our party in this excursion, consisted of Gov. Cass, Dr. 
 Wolcott,Capt. Douglass, Lieutenant l\iackay, Mr. Do- 
 ty, and myself, with a sufficient number of engages to 
 conduct our canoes, and four Chippeway guides. 
 A broad river, with a gentle current, — winding 
 course, and heavy wooded banks, with the dark green 
 foliage overshadowing the water, rendered the first 
 part of the tour delightful. At the distance of four 
 miles we reached a Sturgeon fishery, which the In- 
 dians have established in the river by means of a 
 wier extending from bank to bank. This wier is 
 constructed of saplings and small trees, sharpened 
 and drove into the clayey bottom of the river, with 
 an inclination down stream, and supported by
 
 173 
 
 crotched stakes bracing against the current. Against 
 the sides of these inclined stakes, long poles are 
 placed horizontally, and secured by hickory withes, 
 in such a manner as to afford the Indians a passage 
 from one end to the other, and at the same time al- 
 low them to sit and fish upon any part of it. The 
 sturgeon are caught with an iron hook, fixed at the 
 end of a long slender pole, which the Indian, setting 
 on the wier holds to the bottom of the river, and 
 when he feels the fish pressing against the slender 
 pole, jerks it up with a sudden and very dexterous 
 motion, and seldom fails to bring up the sturgeon. 
 On one side of the wier, an opening is left for the fish 
 to pass up, which they do at this season in vast num- 
 bers, but in their descent they are hurried by the 
 current against the hooks of the savages, who are 
 thickly planted on every part of the wier. The num- 
 ber of sturgeon caught at this place is astonishing, 
 and the Indians rely almost entirely upon this fishery 
 for a subsistence. What is not wanted for immediate 
 consumption, is cut into thin slices and dried or 
 smoked. Canoes pass up through the opening left 
 for the sturgeon. Five or six Indians were employ- 
 ed in fishing at the time we passed through, and we 
 stopped some time to observe the sport, and had the 
 satisfaction of seeing several brought up, one of 
 which was presented to us. The sturgeon are ge- 
 nerally from two feet to four feet in length, and these 
 may be considered as the minimum and maximum 
 size, as they are seldom seen smaller than the for- 
 mer, or larger than the latter. They appear to me 
 to be of the same species as the small sharp nosed 
 sturgeon of the Hudson ; the acipcnser oxyrinchus of 
 Mitchill This fishery is of great importance to the
 
 174 
 
 Indians of the region, and appears <o Lave been 
 known to them from the earliest times, and has been 
 constantly resorted to without any apparent diminu- 
 tion in the quantity taken. Henry says in 1 765, " that 
 a months subsistence for a regiment, could have been 
 taken in a fejv hours time." There is a rapid at 
 the spot fixed upon for the fishery, so that the water 
 is not over four feet deep. We encamped two miles 
 above on a sand bar. The musquitoes here gave 
 us great annoyance. 
 
 XXXVT. Day— {June 28^.)— We embarked at 
 four o'clock in the morning. ,The river is bordered 
 with a rich alluvion covered with a heavy forest of 
 maple, elm, and walnut, and with a luxuriant growth 
 of vines and underbrush. At the distance often or 
 twelve miles from the lake, a chain of highlands 
 shuts in upon each side of the river, cutting off the 
 bottom lands of the lake, and increasing in altitude 
 as we ascend. Here also the river becomes nar- 
 rower and has many rapids. At seven o'clock our 
 guides stopped the canoes, and told us that the riv- 
 er above that place, had a great many bad rapids 
 which it would be very difficult to ascend with all 
 the men in the canoes, and that by landing there, we 
 might proceed by a near route through the woods, 
 and reach the mines much sooner than the canoes 
 could by water. Accordingly eight of the party, in- 
 cluding myself, determined to proceed that way, 
 while the Governor with the canoes, now lightened of 
 half their burden, went up the river to meet us at the 
 mines. We were accompanied by two Indians as 
 guides, who led us over lofty ridges, gulfs, and ra- 
 vines, covered with brush or shattered rocks, for a
 
 175 
 
 distance of fifteen miles, when we fell into an Indian 
 path leading to the copper. Here our guides sat 
 down to await the arrival of the Governor and party, 
 who were to pass that way. VVe had thus far fol- 
 lowed them with incredible fatigue, owing to the 
 swiftness of their travelling, the roughness of the 
 wav, and the extreme heat of the weather. 
 
 " Straining each sinew to ascend, 
 
 " Foot, hand, and knee, their aid must lend ; 
 
 " Now to the oak's warp'd roots we cling-, 
 
 " Now trust our weight to the curl'd vine's string, 
 
 { ' Then like the wild goat must we dare 
 
 il An unsupported leap in air." — Scott. 
 
 It was one o'clock in the afternoon when we arrived 
 at this path, and the thermometer stood at 90° under 
 the dark shade of the forest. We had not been seat- 
 ed a great while, when the other party approached, 
 and we continued our way to the mines ; but the Gov- 
 ernor was so much exhausted by clambering up the 
 hills, which skirt die river, that he was compelled 
 to return to the canoes. We found the remainder of 
 the way, (about six miles,) no less sterile, mountain- 
 ous, or fatiguing ; and reached the great mass of 
 copper, the chief object of our excursion, atari early 
 hour in the afternoon. It lies on the edge of the riv- 
 er directly opposite an island, and at the foot a lofty 
 clay bluff, the face of which appears, at a former pe- 
 riod, to have slipped into the river, carrying with 
 it detached blocks and rounded masses of granite, 
 hornblende, and other rock, and with them, the mass 
 of copper in question. The first feeling was that of 
 disappointment. It has been greatly overrated by 
 former travellers, both as to size and mineralogical 
 character, but is nevertheless, a remarkable mass
 
 J76 
 
 of copper, and well worthy a visit from the traveller 
 who is passing through the region. " The copper, 
 which is in a pure and malleable state, lies in con- 
 nexion with a body of serpentine rock, the face of 
 which it almost completely overlays, and is also dis- 
 seminated in masses, and grains, throughout the sub- 
 stance of the rock. The surface of the metal, unlike 
 most oxydable metals, which have suffered a long 
 exposure to the atmosphere, presents a metallic bril- 
 liancy ; which is attributable either to an alloy of 
 the precious metals, or to the action of the river, 
 which during its semi-annual floods, carries down 
 large quantities of sand and other alluvial matter, 
 that may serve to abrade its surface, and keep it 
 bright. The shape of the rock is very irregular — 
 its greatest length is three feet eight inches — its 
 greatest breadth three feet four inches, and it may 
 altogether contain eleven cubic feet. In size, it con- 
 siderably exceeds the great mass of native iron found 
 some years ago upon the banks of Red River, in 
 Louisiana, and now deposited among the collections 
 of the New-York Historical Society,* but on account 
 of the admixture of rocky matter, is inferior in weight. 
 Henry, who visited it in 1766, estimates its weight at 
 five tons ; but after examining it with scrupulous at- 
 tention, I do not think the weight of metallic copper 
 m the rock exceeds iiieniij-two hundred pounds. The 
 quantity may, however, have been much diminished 
 since its first discovery, and the marks of chisels and 
 axes upon it, with the broken tools lying around, 
 prove that portions have been cut off, and carried 
 away. The author just quoted observes, 'that such 
 was its pure and malleable state that with an axe he 
 
 * See Bruce's JMineralocrical Journal.
 
 177 
 
 Was able to cut off a portion weighing a hundred 
 pounds." Notwithstanding this reduction it may 
 still be considered one of the largest and most re- 
 markable bodies of native copper upon the globe, 
 and is, so far as my reading extends, only exceeded 
 by a specimen found in a valley in Brazil, weighing 
 2G66 Portuguese pounds.* Viewed merely as a sub- 
 ject for scientific speculation, it presents the most 
 interesting considerations and must be regarded by 
 the geologist as affording illustrative proofs of an 
 important character. Its connexion with a rock 
 which is foreign to the immediate section of country 
 where it lies, indicates a removal from its original 
 bed, while the intimate connexion of the metal and 
 matrix, and the complete envelopement of individual 
 masses of the copper by the rock, point to a common 
 and contemporaneous origin, whether that be refer- 
 able to the agency of caloric or water. This conclu- 
 sion admits of an obvious and important application 
 to the extensive strata of serpentine, and other mag- 
 nesian rocks, found in various parts of the globe !' "t 
 
 The accompanying view, (Plate VI,) is taken 
 from a point below the mass of copper, looking up 
 the river On each side appear a lofty range of earthy 
 bluffs, which have caved into the river, throwing 
 down their trees and imbedded rocks into heaps of 
 ruins along the margin of the stream, and exposing 
 their bare surfaces to view. These bluffs may be 
 considered a hundred and fifty feet in perpendicu- 
 lar height, and are capped by a forest of pine, 
 hemlock, cedar, and oak. On the right hand, 
 
 * Philips' Mineralogy. 
 
 f Extract from my Report to the Secretary at War, on the cop- 
 per mines of Lake Superior. See the American Journal of Science 
 and the Arts, Edited by Professor Silliman. Ji.R. S. 
 
 23
 
 partly immersed in water, reposes tire coppe? 
 rock : op the left the Utile island of cedars divides 
 the river into two channels, and the small depth arid 
 rapidity of the water is shewn by the innumerable 
 rocks which project above its surface, from shore to 
 shore. The masses of fallen earth. — the blasted trees., 
 which either lie prostrate at the foot of the bluffs, 
 or hang in a threatening posture above, — the eleva- 
 tion of the banks, — -the rapidity and noise of the 
 stream, present such a mixed character of wild- 
 ness, ruin, and sterility, as to render it one of the 
 most rugged viev\s in nature. 
 
 " It seem'd the mountain, rent and riven, 
 
 u A channel for the stream had given ; 
 
 " So high the cliff of sandstone gray, 
 
 " Hung beetling o'er the torrents way, 
 
 " Where he who winds 'twixt rock and wave, 
 
 i( May bear the headlong torrent rave ; 
 
 <c May view her chafe her waves to spra}\ 
 
 " O'er every rock that bars her way, 
 
 " Till foam globes o'er her eddies glide, 
 
 " Thick as the schemes of human pride 
 
 ' ; That down life's current drive amain, 
 
 " As frail, as frothy, and as vain." Scott. 
 
 One cannot help fancying that he has gone to the 
 ends of the earth, and beyond the boundaries ap- 
 pointed for the residence of man. Every object tells 
 us that it is a region alike unfavourable to the pro- 
 due ions of the animal and vegetable kingdom; and 
 we shudder in casting our eyes over the frightful 
 wreck of trees, and the confused groups of falling-in 
 banks and shattered stones. Yet we have only to 
 ascend these bluffs to behold hills more rugged and 
 elevated ; and d.,rk hemlock forests, and yawning 
 gulfs more dreary, and more forbidding to the eye. 
 Such is the frightful region through which, for a
 
 179 
 
 distance of twenty miles, we followed our Indian 
 guides to reach this unfrequented spot, in which 
 there is nothing to compensate the toil of the jour- 
 ney but its geological character, and mineral pro- 
 ductions. Indeed these are traits which are gene- 
 rally found to increase in interest, in proportion to 
 the increased sterility of the soil, and the impover- 
 ished growth of vegetable life. And here also the 
 effect of climate upon the productions of nature, pre- 
 sents a remarkable exception. Trees and plants 
 of particular species, are only found to vegetate 
 in certain latitudes, and to be confined to particular 
 soils, whose chemical constituents are congenial to 
 their growth. Every modification of climate has its 
 peculiar plants and predominating trees. Animals 
 also, particularly the herbiferous species, have, in 
 all countries, more or less confined themselves with- 
 in the cycle of certain species of vegetable pro- 
 ductions, — to the grasses and buds of trees to which 
 they are particularly attached, — or, they are im- 
 pelled in the search of herbs necessary to their 
 health and vigour. But the inorganic masses of the 
 earth are confined to no particular latitudes, and 
 are uniform in their composition. The granites, 
 the limestones, the spars, and the metals, exhibit 
 the same characters, whether picked up with- 
 in the arctic circle, or under the torrid zone. The 
 mineralogist discovers the same external signs and 
 appearances, and the chemist finds the same mine- 
 ral constituents combined in the same propor- 
 tions. It has, indeed, been asserted, that metals 
 are confined to particular latitudes, — that gold 
 and silver, and precious stones, are productions pe- 
 culiar to the southern hemisphere j but there is
 
 180 
 
 nothing in the theories of the formation of mine- 
 ral strata, the laws of crystallization, or in the 
 known influence of climates upon mineral bodies, 
 to justify such a conclusion ; — there is no reason 
 that can be drawn from philosophical investigations 
 to prove that these substances may not be abundant- 
 ly tound in the climates of the north, even upon the 
 banks of the frozen ocean. The fact thatthese produc- 
 tions are more abundantly found within the higher la- 
 titudes, does not appear capable of explanation, on a 
 supposed effect of climate, but is probably wholly 
 independent of that circumstance. On the contrary, 
 there is reason to presume that the precious metals 
 may be found in the northern regions of the Ameri- 
 can continent. Nothing appears more improbable 
 than that the veins of silver ore, which are so abun- 
 dant in Mexico, and die province of Texas, are 
 checked in their progress northward into Arkansaw 
 and Missouri, by the effect of climate. This metal 
 is known to be found in association only with certain 
 limestones, schists, arid other rocks, and where these 
 cease, is in vain to be sought. Other metals and 
 minerals have their particular associations, serving 
 as a geognostic matrix, and hence rock strata may be 
 considered as indexes to particular metals, minerals, 
 and ores; and the geologist is thus enabled to predict, 
 with considerable certainty, from the examination 
 of the exterior of a country, whether it is metallife- 
 rous, or not. Until such examinations are made, 
 we must be permitted to say, that there does not ap- 
 pear any thing to forbid the hope of finding the pre- 
 cious metals in the regions of the northwest, while 
 there are several facts to prove that it is highly pro- 
 bable. It is here that the stinted growth of vegeta-
 
 181 
 
 lion, and the rocky and elevated nature of the coun- 
 try, leads us to look for those treasures in the mineral 
 kingdom which nature has denied in soil and cli- 
 mate. In various places have lead, iron, and cop- 
 per already been discovered, and the beauty of the 
 carnelian, the agates, and the chalcedonies, picked 
 up alonur the shores of Lake Superior, prove that 
 the hardy regions of the north are not unfavourable 
 to the production of mineral gems. But it is chiefly, 
 so far as actually known, in the abundance of copper 
 that the mineralogy of this region claims particular 
 attention, and the more so, as it is found in the na- 
 tive form. Pieces of this metal have been discover- 
 ed in various parts of the region, from the banks of 
 Muddy river, in Illinois, to the mouth of the Cop- 
 per-Mine river, which enters the Frozen ocean. 
 At the latter place, Mr. Hearne found it in his visit 
 to the Copper-Mine river, in 1771, and represents it 
 as in common use for knives, trinkets, &c. among 
 the Esquimaux, the Dog-ribbed, and the Copper- 
 Mine tribes, who inhabit that inclement region.* It 
 has also been found in various parts of Illinois, as 
 at Harrison, and old Piora, — at Dubuques mines, — 
 Winnebago lake, — on the St. Peter's, — St. Croix, — 
 Sauteur, and other rivers, — but most abundantly 
 upon Lake Superior, and particularly upon the ri- 
 ver Ontonagon, where the large mass which is the 
 object of our present visit, has long attracted atten- 
 tion. It is, indeed, notwithstanding the exaggerated 
 accounts, a wonderful mass, and viewed in connexion 
 with the mineral appearances of the surrounding 
 country, leaves little doubt that extensive mines of 
 this metal exist in the vicinity. But to explore it with 
 * See Hearne's Journey to the Northern Ocean, p. 172.
 
 182 
 
 any degree of satisfaction, a week or a fortnight 
 affords a very inadequate period, while the extent of 
 the route to be performed, and the danger of so 
 large a party's getting out of provisions in a country 
 almost wholly destitute of game, forbids even the 
 devotion of a few days to that object. Having, 
 therefore, examined appearances, and taken such 
 notes, and specimens of the metal, as time and cir- 
 cumstances would permit, we returned to our ca- 
 noes, which had been left at the distance of six miles 
 below. On reaching the canoes, we were alarmed 
 on finding that Gov. Cass, from whom we had part- 
 ed at the Indian path, at two o'clock, had not yet 
 reached the camp, nor any of the attendants who 
 were with him, — among whom was one of the In- 
 dian guides. Some idea of the rugged nature of the 
 country may be formed when it is stated, that they 
 hod lost their way in attempting to reach the river, 
 notwithstanding that they were only distant three 
 miles, and led by an Indian acquainted with those 
 parts generally. Night was rapidly closing around 
 us, and after firing repeated signal guns, and send- 
 ing out in all directions, nothing could be heard of 
 them. The feelings of the party may be imagined 
 upon this occasion, seated, as we were, in the midst 
 of one of the most awful solitudes, and in a region 
 which had impressed every individual with an inde- 
 scribable feeling, that was manifested in a general 
 anxiety to depart from it. I was perhaps alone in 
 the wish to continue our examinations. At length 
 the lost party were discovered by a canoe sent up 
 the river, setting upon the shore, and exhausted 
 with fatigue, and their arrival restored tranquillity to 
 our camp.
 
 183 
 
 XXXVII. Day.— (June 29th.)— At five o'clock in the 
 morning we commenced our return. On descending 
 eight or ten miles, our Indian guides stopped on the 
 east hank of the river, to examine a bear-fall that 
 had been previously set, and were overjoyed to 
 find a large bear entrapped. As it was no great 
 distance from the river, we all landed to en- 
 joy the sight. The animal sat up on his fore paws- 
 facing us, the hinder paws being pressed to the 
 ground by a heavy weight of logs which had been 
 arranged in such a manner as to allow the bear to 
 creep under, and then by seizing the bait, had sprung 
 the trap, and he could not extricate himself, although, 
 with his fore paws, he had demolished a part of the 
 works. After viewing him for some time, a ball was 
 fired through his head, but it did not kill him, the 
 bear kept his position, and seemed to growl in defi- 
 ance. A second ball was aimed at the heart, and took 
 efftct, but he did not resign the contest immediate- 
 ly, and was at last despatched with an axe. As soon 
 as the bear fell, one of the Indians walked up, and 
 addressing him by the name of Muck-wah^ shook 
 him by the paw, with a smiling countenance, as if 
 be had met with an old acquaintance, saying, in the 
 Indian language, he was sorry they had been under 
 the necessity of killing him, and hoped the offence 
 would be forgiven, particularly as Che-mo-que-inon* 
 had fired one of the balls. This animal measures five 
 feet in length, and would probably weigh three hun- 
 dred pounds. The head is small and narrow, with 
 a long pointednose, and covered with glossy black 
 
 * This is a general name among; the Chipppways for ihe Ame- 
 ricans. It signifies the (t Long Knife." Sag-a-nosh is the term 
 for the British.
 
 184 
 
 hair all over (he body, except some spots of brown- 
 ish yellow upon the cheeks and throat. It appears 
 to ^e the common black bear of naturalists, 
 (ursus niger?) which is frequent in the United States. 
 By the joy which was evident upon the counte- 
 nances of the savages upon this occasion, it is a 
 rare occurrence among them to kill a bear. But 
 perhaps this animal is never killed without ex- 
 ultation, as it is universally considered the no- 
 blest object of the chase Some difficulty has 
 arisen among naturalists as to the character of 
 this animal, which, although provided with canine 
 teeth, is supposed to subsist principally upon 
 vegetable food. It is, however, certain that it is 
 also carniverous, and will prey upon hogs and other 
 animals when pressed for food. The Indians say 
 that it is very fond of all sorts of nuts, esculent roots, 
 and wild honey, and frequently attacks their corn 
 fields. It will travel a great way from its den into 
 the pine ridges to feed upon whortle berries, and is 
 also very fond of mulberries, blackberries, and all 
 sweet flavoured and spicy fruits. They add, that it 
 is only in the utmost extremity that it takes hold of 
 animal food, and in a region where its favourite 
 fruits are plenty, will pass by the carcass of a deer 
 without touching it. On the same account it never 
 attacks men, unless wounded, and too hotly pressed, 
 when it turns upon its pursuers with the fury of a 
 lion. On such occasions one stroke of the paw is 
 sufficient to kill their stoutest dogs The Indians 
 hold this animal in the highest estimation, not only 
 on account of their great fondness of its flesh, but 
 because there is no part of it which is useless. The 
 carcass, the skin, the claws and head, and even the
 
 185 
 
 intestines, are all turned to account. The fleshy 
 part of the claws is considered a very great delica* 
 cy, — the claws themselves are cut out, strung to- 
 gether upon a deer's sinew, and worn as an orna- 
 ment about the neck. The oil, is, however, consi- 
 dered the most valuable part, whether kept for use, 
 or for the purpose of selling to the traders. They 
 rub their bodies with it to protect themselves from 
 the bite of the musquitoc It has the singular pro- 
 perty of destroying lice in the hair, and if occasion- 
 ally used, of preventing their appearance altogether. 
 They also rub their joints with it, believing with 
 the Romans, that it renders them supple. A singular 
 fact is mentioned by Pennant, that the female bear is 
 never killed with young, and it is explained on the 
 supposition, (for the fact admits of doubt,) that the 
 male possesses such an unnatural dislike to its off- 
 spring, as to kill and devour the cubs. On this ac- 
 count, the female retires before the period of partu- 
 rition, into remote woods and clefts of rocks, and 
 does not return until the cubs have attained a cer- 
 tain growth. 
 
 In passing down the river one of the Indians had 
 promised to discover another mass of copper near 
 the river, but after landing and hunting sometime, 
 pretended he could not find it. An Indian after- 
 wards brought us a lump of copper weighing be- 
 tween eight and nine pounds, which he said was 
 picked up upon the banks of the Ontonagon. This 
 specimen was covered with a green crust, and not in 
 so pure a state as the great mass above. On reach- 
 ing the lake we found the wind directly ahead, and 
 were detained the remainder of the day. In the af- 
 ternoon a council was held with the Indians, and 
 
 24
 
 180 
 
 presents distributed among: them, and one of the' 
 number, who appeared to merit it, constituted a 
 chief, by being invested with a flag and silver me- 
 dal. In the evening, they danced upon the sand for 
 our amusement. 1 have already spoken of Indian 
 dancing and music. It is perhaps all we could ex- 
 pect from untutored savages, but there is nothing 
 about it which has ever struck me as either interest- 
 ing or amusing, and after having seen these per- 
 formances once or twice, they become particularly 
 tedious, and it is a severe tax upon one's patience 
 to sit and be compelled, in order to keep their good 
 opinions, to appear pleased with it. 
 
 XXXVIII. Day.— (June 30th.)— Detained by head 
 winds. There is very little in the appearances of 
 the country in the vicinity of our encampment, to 
 compensate for our delay. A sandy plain stretches 
 along the shore of the lake as far as the eye can reach. 
 The highlands of the Ontonagon are visible towards 
 the south, and the Porcupine mountains at the distance 
 of thirty miles west, appear to rise out of the lake, 
 and imprint their lofty and rugged outlines upon the 
 distant clouds. Towards the north there is an inter- 
 minable expanse of water, without a solitary island 
 to variegate the view. Letting the eye fall upon the 
 immediate vicinity of our camp, the Indian village 
 appears on the opposite side of the river, and we are 
 surrounded on all sides by a bed of loose sand, 
 which the wind is continually drifting into heaps. 
 There is not a pebble upon the shore, nor a stra- 
 tum of rock within a dozen miles. Occasional 
 strata of iron sand, very pure and black, are found. 
 An Indian brought me a number of specimens of iron
 
 187 
 
 ore, procured at Point Keweena, near the port- 
 age, w here he represents it to exist in large quantity. 
 The specimens consist of red hematite and iron py- 
 rites. Both these substances are said to occur 
 in quantity on Iron river, which enters the lake 
 fifteen miles west of the Ontonagon. While encamp- 
 ed here, pigeons have been very plenty, and vast 
 numbers have been killed, some with sticks and 
 stones. The Indians have also supplied us with stur- 
 geon from the fishery, both fresh and dried, and with 
 a pert of the bear which they entrapped, but the 
 latter, being in poor order, and a male, has not pos- 
 sessed that flavour for which young bear's meat kil- 
 led in the proper season, is generally relished. 
 
 The weather since our arrival upon the banks of 
 this river, has been clear and warm, and during the 
 middle of the day, oppressively sultry. The wind 
 which blew fair from the E. N. E. on our arrival, 
 shifted to the north west on the following day, and 
 has blown steadily from that point without change. 
 The thermometer stood at 9 1° on the 28th, at 9 i° on 
 the 29th, and at 89° on the 30th, and the mean heat 
 as deduced from three daily observations has been 
 80°. During the same time the mean temperature of 
 the water of Lake Superior has been 6t>°, and of the 
 water of the Ontonagon river 713°. The following 
 thermometrical memoranda made at irregular inter- 
 vals, as circumstances would permit, may here be 
 added. 
 
 Temperature of the Air. 
 June 28th, at 8 A. M. 74«— at 1 P. M. 91°— at 6 P M. 74o av. 79° 
 " 29th, at 8 A. M 79^ — at i P. M. 94°— at 7 P M. 86° av. 86° 
 " 30th, at 9 A. M. 760— at 2 P. M. 89°— at 8 P. M. 60° av 75° 
 
 3)240 
 
 Me&n temp, for three days 80*
 
 188 
 
 Water of the Ontonagon River. 
 
 June 28th, at 8 A. M. 69°— at 3 P- M. 73°— at 6 P. M. 71° av. 71* 
 " 29th, at 8 A. M. 68°— at 1 P. M. 76°— at 7 P. M. 75° av.76° 
 " 30th, at 8 A. M. 74<>— at 3 P. M. flm av. 72° 
 
 3)219 
 Average temperature 73° 
 
 Water of Lalce Superior. 
 
 June 28th, at 8 A. M. 26<>— at 6 P. M. 72° av. 67' 
 
 * 29th, at 8 A M. 6lo— at 7 P. M. 68o av. 74° 
 
 a 30th, at 8 A. JM. 60o— at 9 P. M. 58o a v. 5')° 
 
 3)200 
 
 Mean temperature 66|
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 J O U R JV E F, 
 
 A ROM THE ONTONJIGOJV RIVER TO THE FOKB DU LAC 
 
 XXXIX. Day.— {July 1st.) 
 
 A HE wind ceased during the night, and the morn- 
 ing was calm, with a dense fog, which rendered it 
 impossible to discern objects at the distance of two 
 or three hundred yards. We left the mouth of the 
 Ontonagon at half past four in the morning. In go- 
 ing eight or ten miles a favourable wind arose which 
 enabled us to proceed under sail for a couple of hours. 
 Fifteen miles beyond the Ontonagon, we passed the 
 mouth of Iron river, which is very rapid, and inter- 
 locks with some of the tributaries of the Ousconsing. 
 Iron ore and pyrites are said to abound upon its 
 banks. Five leagues beyond, we passed the Carp 
 river, which originates in the Porcupine mountains, 
 and has a perpendicular fall of forty feet, three miles 
 from its mouth Presque Isle river is six miles further. 
 It is also very rapid and not much navigated in ca- 
 noes. Black river is next passed, at the distance of 
 two leagues. It is also rapid, and originates in the 
 broken lands south of the Porcupine mountains.
 
 190 
 
 Eight miles beyond this, we encamped, having pro- 
 ceeded fifty miles. The shore of the lake from the 
 Ontonagon river, until we arrive off the Porcupine 
 mountains, is sandy, with ihe exception of a ledge of 
 sand rock which appears a lew feet above the water 
 at the mouth of Iron river, and is inclined towards 
 the N. E. at an angle of six or eight degrees On 
 passing by the Porcupine mountains, the same rock, 
 (red sand stone) is visible along the shore, but in a 
 position so highly inclined, as to appear nearly verti- 
 cal. It dips under the lake towards the north, and 
 appearances seem to indicate that it has been 
 thrown into this position by the upheaving of the 
 granitic masses of the Porcupine mountains, which 
 rise at a very short distance from the lake. These 
 mountains have a very rugged and commanding ap- 
 pearance, and rise to a surprising height. We saw 
 them under the influence of great atmospheric re- 
 fraction, from Kewecna Portage, a distance of eighty 
 miles. Captain Douglass has estimated their alti- 
 tude at from one thousand eight hundred to two 
 thousand feet above Lake Superior. His data are 
 the distances at which they are visible with the na- 
 ked eye, under different degrees of refraction. Mr. 
 I^arby says " any object capable of being seen upon 
 the curve of the earth's surface forty miles, must be 
 within a trifle of one thousand one hundred feet 
 higtu'VrTW to Detroit, p. 175. 
 
 Charlevoix observes, " when a storm is about to rise 
 on Lake Superior, you are advertised of it, two or 
 three days previous. At first, you perceive a gen- 
 tle murmuring on the surface of the water, which 
 lasts the whole day without increasing in any sen- 
 sible manner ; the day after the Jake is covered
 
 in 
 
 with pretty large waves, but without breaking ali 
 that day, so that you may proceed without tear, and 
 even make good way if the wind is favourable ; but 
 on the third day when you are the least thinking of 
 it, the lake becomes all on fire, the ocean in its 
 greatest rage is not more tost, in which case you 
 must take care to be near shelter, to save your- 
 self. This you are always sure to find on the north 
 shore, whereas on the south you are obliged to se- 
 cure yourself the second day at a considerable dis- 
 tance from the water side."* Although we are not 
 prepared to corroborate this remark, yet something 
 of the kind has this day been witnessed, for notwith- 
 standing the prevalence of a calm during the whole 
 day, with the exception of about two hours in the 
 morning, when the wind was however light, the lake 
 towards evening has been in a perfect rage, and we 
 effected a landing with greater hazard than has yet 
 been encountered. At the same time scarce a 
 breath of air was stirring, and the atmosphere was 
 beautifully clear. 
 
 XL. Day. — (July 2d.) — -Thirteen miles from our 
 encampment, we reached the mouth of the Montreal 
 river, which we entered, and landed upon its banks. 
 This is a long and rapid river, and is connected with 
 the head waters of the Chippeway and Ousconsing. 
 About eight hundred yards above its mouth it has a 
 fall of eighty or ninety feet, where the river is pre- 
 cipitated over a rugged barrier of vertical rocks, by 
 several successive leaps, the last of which is about 
 forty feet perpendicular. This brings the stream on 
 a level with Lake Superior, which it joins in a broad 
 
 # Charlevoix, p. 44. vol. 2.
 
 102 
 
 deep stream, with reddish coloured water. This* 
 view is highly picturesque as presented from the 
 point of land formed by the junction of the river with 
 the lake. Notwithstanding its rapidity, and falls, it 
 is frequently ascended by the traders, and a port- 
 age of one hundred and twenty pauses commences at 
 its mouth. The southwest company have an estab- 
 lishment on Lac du Flambeau, which is near the 
 head of this river. Between the foot of the falls and 
 the lake, the Indians have a wier similar to that on 
 the Ontonagon, for catching sturgeon, and there is 
 an Indian village a few miles west of it. During a 
 short stay here, we found pigeons very abundant 7 
 and several were killed with clubs. 
 
 Twelve miles beyond the Montreal river, is the 
 Mauvais which is navigable a hundred miles in ca- 
 noes, and takes its rise in the OttaWay Lake. From 
 this a portage is made into branches of the St. Croix 
 and Chippeway rivers, through a series of small 
 lakes, the principal of which are Spear, Clam, Sum- 
 mer, Pacquayahwan, and Lac du Coutere, On the 
 latter the southwest company have a trading estab- 
 lishment. On the banks of the Ottaway lake the In- 
 dians procure a sort of red steatite, similar to that of 
 St. Peter's, of which they manufacture pipes. Six 
 miles beyond the Mauvaise, is Point Che-goi-me- 
 gon, once the grand rendezvous of the Chippeway 
 tribe, but now reduced to a few lodges. Three 
 miles further west is the island of St. Michael, which 
 lies in the traverse across Chegoimegon Bay, where 
 M. Cadotte has an establishment. This was former- 
 ly an important trading post but is now dwindled to 
 nothing. There is a dwelling of logs, stockaded in 
 the usual manner of trading houses, besides several
 
 193 
 
 out buildings, and some land in cultivation. We 
 here also found several cows and horses, which have 
 been transported with great labour. On this isl- 
 and two pieces of native copper were found some 
 years ago, one of which was a foot long, and Weigh- 
 ed twenty-eight pounds. It is also stated that a sil- 
 ver mine exists on the main shore southwest of the 
 island, but during the short time of our stay, we 
 could procure no satisfactory information on the sub- 
 ject. The Indians appear very jealous of every at- 
 tempt to explore the mineralogy of their territories, 
 and are loth to communicate any information that 
 would lead to a discovery. W e encamped seven 
 miles west of this island, on the main shore. 
 
 The shore of the lake during this day's journey 
 has exhibited some diversity. Red sand stone, in a 
 vertical position, continues for a few miles beyond 
 Montreal river. It generally rises out of the water 
 abruptly, and in some places, as between Black and 
 Montreal rivers, to a height of eighty or a hundred 
 feet. In the interstices of the rock, the water has 
 driven up pebbles of granite, hornblende, quartz, &c. 
 A bank of red clay, of twenty or thirty feet in depth, 
 overlays the rock, covered with a young growth of 
 birch and poplar. There are no large, or apparently 
 old trees, seen along this part of the coast. About 
 four miles beyond Montreal river, the rock ceases, 
 and a sandy shore succeeds, which continues to 
 Point Chegoimegon,or Sandy Point. The Mauvaise 
 river enters through this plain of sand. On reach- 
 ing the main shore west of Chegoimegon Bay, we 
 perceive a rough, 'high, and broken region of hills, 
 consisting chiefly of hornblende rock. There is a 
 sandy beach on the lake shore, and at the distance 
 
 25
 
 194 
 
 of from one to live miles in the lake, lie a cluster (*( 
 wooded islands, which Garver called the Twelve 
 Apostles. There appears to be fifteen or twenty in 
 number, and they present a very beautiful and pic- 
 turesque groupe. 
 
 XLI. Day. — (July 3d.) — We bad rain during the 
 night and it continued until six o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, when we embarked, and proceeded northwest 
 eight miles to Raspberry river, — then southwest six 
 miles to Sandy river, where ahead wind and an ap- 
 proaching storm compelled us to land. Before we 
 could unload our canoes, or pitch a tent, rain com- 
 menced, and it poured down in torrents for an hour 
 or more, during which there was no alternative but 
 to stand patiently upon the sand. If we had lain at 
 the bottom of the lake, we could not have been more 
 completely drenched. When the rain ceased, the 
 wind arose from the southwest, and confined us to 
 that spot during the remainder of the day. 
 
 *XLII. Day.— (July 4th.)— We passed the forty-fifth 
 Anniversary of American Independence until two 
 o'clock, at the mouth of Sandy river. The wind 
 continued to blow unfavourably a great part of the 
 day. In the afternoon it changed so that we were 
 able to put out, although the lake was still agitated : 
 on going three miles we turned a prominent point of 
 land called De Tour, which lies at the foot of the 
 great Fond du Lac, or West Bay. Here we changed 
 our course from N. W. to S. S. W. and continued it, 
 witb little variation, to the moulh of Cranberry river, 
 where we encamped at eight o'clock, having pro- 
 gressed thirty-three miles. The evening was clear and 
 calm and twilight was observable all night. In the
 
 105 
 
 latitude of 67° 47', Mackenzie saw the sun above the 
 horizon at 12 o'clock, P.M. This was on the 11th 
 July, 1789. In 42°, (the meridian of Albany and De- 
 troit,) the light .of the sun is wholly invisible at this 
 season after eight o'clock. 
 
 XL1II. Day. — (July tith.) — We were upon the lake 
 this morning before three o'clock. The sun rose 
 above the horizon at ten minutes before four, giving 
 us day light nearly an hour sooner than it will reach 
 our friends on the shores of the Atlantic. The morn- 
 ing was clear • and calm, and the prospect of reach- 
 ing the head of the lake, before the sun would again 
 set, put our party in the finest spirits, and the voya- 
 geurs worked with renewed vigour. At the distance 
 of five leagues from Cranberry river, we passed the 
 mouth of the Bois Brule, which enters the lake at the 
 foot of a small bay. This river is i avigated 80 miles, 
 and a portage of two pauses then made into a small 
 lake, which is the source of St. Croix river. The latter 
 enters the Mississippi between St. Peter's and lake 
 Pepin, and is navigable at all seasons. The South 
 West Company have an establishment one hundred 
 leagues from its mouth, and about twenty -five 
 leagues south of the Fond du Lac. Three miles 
 beyond Bojs Brule we landed on the sandy shore 
 a kw moments, and here found an immense body 
 of iron sand, very pure and black. It lay in a stra- 
 tum of a foot in thickness along the shore, and ex- 
 tending either way, as far as we examined. At elev- 
 en o'clock a northeast wind arose which enabled us 
 to hoist sail, and an hour afterwards we entered the 
 mouth of the river St. Louis, which enters the lake 
 at the head of the Fond du Lac. Thus have we 
 Completed the passage of Lake Superior on th$
 
 196 
 
 eighteenth day after our departure from Point aux 
 Pins, including the excursion up the Ontonagon and 
 the delay at the mouth of that river. The entire 
 distance from Point Iroquois is four hundred and 
 ninety miles, and this is the greatest length of the 
 lake, in a direct course from east to west. In tra- 
 versing around the Canadian shore it is estimated at 
 twelve hundred miles, and its extreme breadth from 
 th° bottom of Keweena Bay, to the mouth of Nipe- 
 gon river, is a hundred and ninety miles. Its circum- 
 ference may be estimated at seventeen hundred 
 miles. Mr. Darby has calculated its medium depth at 
 990 feet, and its superficial area at 836,352,000,000 
 feet.* It has a number of large and well wooded 
 islands, the principal of which are Maurepas, Phil- 
 lipoux, the Island of Yellow Sands, and Isle Royal. 
 The latter is represented by Carver as being " an 
 hundred miles long, and in many places, forty broad." 
 The island of Maurepas is reputed to abound in 
 minerals, and was formerly explored by the copper 
 mine companj'. " I found it," says the agent, " one 
 solid rock, thinly covered with soil, except in the 
 valleys ; but generally well wooded. Its circumfer- 
 ence is twelve leagues. On examining the surface, 
 I saw nothing remarkable, except large veins of 
 transparent spar, and a mass of rock, at the south 
 
 * The following comparative estimote of the volume of water 
 jn the ohain of northwestern Lakes is given by Mr. Darby in his 
 Tour to Detroit p. 117- 
 
 LAKES. 
 
 Medium depth. 
 
 Sup. area in feet. 
 
 ssfiii.v^daooo 
 
 Solid contents in feet. 
 
 Superior, 
 
 900 
 
 752,716,800,000,000 
 
 Huron, 
 
 900 
 
 557,568,000.000 
 
 501,811,200,000,000 
 
 Michigan, 
 
 900 
 
 376,898. 400.000| 339 208,56 >.000,000 
 
 Erie, 
 
 120 
 
 41 8,1 76 .00' .000 
 
 50,181.120.000,000 
 
 Ontario, 
 
 492 
 
 200 ; 724.480,0e0 
 
 98,756,444,160,000
 
 107 
 
 end of the island, which appeared to be composed 
 of iron ore." The Island of Yellow Sands derives 
 its chief interest from the traditions and fanciful tales 
 which the Indians relate concerning its mineral trea- 
 sures, and their supernatural guardians. They 
 pretend that its shores are covered with a heavy shi- 
 ning yellow sand, which they would persuade us is 
 gold, but that the guardian spirit of the island, will not 
 permit any of it to be carried away. To eniorce his 
 commands he has drawn together upon it, myriads 
 of eagles, hawks, and other birds of prey, who by 
 their cries warn him of any intrusions upon the do- 
 m-tin, and assist with their claws and beaks to expel 
 the enemy He has also called from the depths of 
 the lake, large serpents of the most hideous forms, 
 who lie thickly coiled upon the golden sands, and 
 hiss defiance to the steps of the invader. A great 
 many years ago, it is pretended, that some people of 
 their nation were driven by stress of weather, to take 
 shelter upon the enchanted island, and being struck 
 with the beautiful and glittering appearance of the 
 treasure, they put a large quantity of it in their ca- 
 noes, and attempted to carry it off, but a gigantic 
 spirit strode into the water, and in a voice of thunder, 
 commanded them to bring it back. Terrified with 
 his amazing size, and threatening aspect, they obey- 
 ed, and were afterwards suffered to depart without 
 molestation, but they have never since attempted 
 to land upon it. 
 
 <c Listen white man — go not there, 
 
 " Unseen spirits stalk the air ; 
 
 " Ravenous birds their influence lend, 
 
 u Snakes defy — and kites defend. 
 
 tl There the star-eyed pinther prowls, 
 
 a And the wolf in hunger howls ;
 
 198 
 
 •■ There the speckled adder breed^ 
 ,( And the famished eagle feeds, 
 " Spirits keep them — fiends incite, 
 H They are eager for the fight, 
 ** And are thirsting night and day, 
 " On the human heart to prey, 
 " Touch not then the guarded lands 
 «< Of the isle of yellow sands."— MSS. 
 
 Carver represents "the country on the north and east 
 parts of Lake Superior as very mountainous and bar- 
 ren," and Mackenzie adds, that "it is a continued moun- 
 tainous embankment of rock, from three hundred to 
 one thousand five hundred feet in height." The prin- 
 cipal rivers on that shore are the Pic, Nipegon, and 
 Michepicoten. The climate is described as very- 
 unfavourable and the vegetation slow and scanty. 
 "VA e can only speak with certainty of the southern 
 coast, on which it receives thirty tributary rivers, but 
 none of them exceed a hundred and fifty miles in 
 length. Of these the Ontonagon, Montreal, Mau- 
 vaise, Bois Brule, and St. Louis are the largest, and 
 communicate with the waters of the Mississippi. 
 The coast is sandy from Point Iroquois to the Pic* 
 tured Rocks ; then rocky to the foot of the Fond du 
 Lac, with occasional plains of sand, as at the Onto- 
 nagon, and Point Chegoiinegon, and from that to the 
 head of the lake, sandy and without hills. The forest 
 trees are white and yellow pine, hemlock, spruce, 
 birch, poplar, and oak, with a mixture of elm, maple, 
 and ash, upon the banks of the rivers. The coast is ve- 
 ry elevated, — in some places mountainous, — generally 
 sterile, — and dangerous to navigate. It is subject to 
 storms and sudden transitions of temperature, and to 
 fogs and mists, which are often so dense as to ob- 
 scure objects at a short distance, and prove disas- 
 trous to canoe travellers, by separating the party and
 
 19S 
 
 driving them upon rocks and sand banks. It ap- 
 pears to enjoy a warm atmosphere during the sum- 
 mer season, the result of our observations indicating 
 a mean heat of 66° for June, and 64° for July. We 
 found strawberries ripe at Keweena Portage on the 
 25th, and at the Ontonagon on the 27th of June. But 
 it has a long and frightful winter. The Indians liv- 
 ing upon its shores are divided into small bands, and 
 rely more upon the fish of the lake, than upon the 
 chace. There are two kinds of trout, some of 
 which weigh fifty pounds. White fish, sturgeon 
 pickerel, pike, carp, black bass, and herring, are al- 
 so abundant. Although we have occasionally met 
 ducks along the shore, it is not a favourite resort of 
 water fowl. The waters are too pure and deep, 
 and the coast too rocky for the growth of the wild 
 rice, and those aquatic plants which draw such my- 
 riads of these birds into the northwestern regions. 
 Its mineralogy and geology have been detailed in 
 the progress of the voyage. No part of the union 
 presents a more attractive field for geological inves- 
 tigation or mineral discoveries. Its copper, iron, and 
 lead, promise to become important items in the fu- 
 ture commerce of the country. The beds of iron 
 aand along the shore exceed every thing of the kind 
 found in the United States. It presents two har- 
 bours for vessels which are rarely equalled : — These 
 are Grand Isle, and Chegoimegon Bay. r l he former 
 is perhaps the most capacious, deep, and completely 
 land-locked of any in America. Such are the lead- 
 ing traits of the southern shore of Superior. The 
 French it appears bestowed unsuccessfully upon this 
 lake the names of Conde, and Tracy. The former 
 had previously been applied to Erie, but neither 
 were ever fully adopted. I was anxious from the
 
 200 
 
 time of our entrance upon it, to learn the Indian 
 name ; it is Missi$awgaiegon, signifying simply " great 
 Jake." According to the eslinrta'es which 1 have 
 made, this lake has an elevation ofaf v one feet above 
 Lake Huron, — eighty-one, above L« ke Eric, — and 
 six hundred and forty-one, above the Atlantic ocean 
 at high tide.* 
 
 On turning Point de Tour, a few miles beyond San- 
 dy river, we have the first glimpse of the mountains 
 on the north side of the lake, which are distant 
 probably forty miles. These become more distinct, 
 and continue to increase iii apparent altitude as 
 we ascend the Fond du Lac, while on the south shore 
 the highlands either recede so widely from the lake 
 as to become invisible, or entirely cease. On reach- 
 ing the mouth of St. Louis, or Kond du Lac river, 
 the Cabotiant mountains present a lofty barrier to- 
 wards the north, and have an apparent altitude of a 
 thousand feet above the lake. The chain runs from 
 
 * ELEVATION OF THE AMERICAN LAKES. 
 
 Feet. Tot. Fee:. 
 Level of Lake Erie above the tide waters of the 
 
 Hudson, (as surveyed by the N. Y. Canal Com- 
 missioners, 56) 
 Lake St. Clair, (see estimate in chapter 2.) 10 570 
 Lake Huron, (see estimate in chapter 2.) 19 58f« 
 Mean fall of the river St. Mary, between De Tour 
 and Point Iroquois, sixty miles, at three inches 
 per m le, f rapids not included) 15 
 Nibish rapid, 9 
 Sugar Island rapid 6 
 Sault de St. Marie, (according to Col. Gratiot,) 22 10 
 Lake Superior, .52 10 641 
 t Col. Bouchctte, in his Topographical Description of the Can- 
 adas, has applied the name ( abotia, (in allusion to Christian 
 Cabot, the dh-coverer,) to ail that part of North America Iving" 
 north of the Great Lakes,
 
 201 
 
 east to west, and as far as the eye can reach stretches 
 off in a lofty line towards the Mississippi. It is this 
 barrier which we have to cross with our baggage 
 and canoes in ascending the St. Louis river, for this 
 precipitous stream has worn its rugged channel 
 through these mountains, and throws itselfinto Lake 
 Superior at its extreme head. The mouth of this 
 river is not more than a hundred and Mty yards 
 wide, but immediately on entering, it expands to a 
 mile, and continues this width for five or six miles, 
 and this part of it resembles a lake more than a ri- 
 ver, having little or no current, — shallow in many 
 places, and filled with aquatic plants. We here 
 first saw in plenty the folle avoine, or wild rice, 
 which is so common throughout the northwestern 
 regions, and serves the Indians as a substitute tor 
 corn. We had previously noticed this plant in small 
 patches, in passing through the river St. Mary, and 
 along the shores ofa few of the tributary rivers of Lake 
 Superior, — but it is in no place seen along the shore 
 of the lake itself. Neither does that lake afford any 
 of the water grasses, rushes, or liliaceous plants com- 
 mon to most of the lakes and ponds of the north. 
 Naturalists do not seem agreed as to the character 
 of this plant, and a discrepancy appears in the 
 botanical nomenclature. Linnaeus has arranged it 
 as a variety of the species plantarum, under the 
 name of Zezania Aqimiica. Micheaux and Eaton 
 denominate it Zezania Clavidosa. The Linnasanname 
 is the most characteristic. Other names have been 
 given by different botanists, but few in fact have en- 
 jo ;• I the opportunity of examining the plant in its 
 natural situation, and it is not even settled whether 
 the fruit is annually produced from new seed, or the 
 
 26
 
 202 
 
 same root continues to germinate for many years. 
 There can be no doubt, as Pursh has suggested, that 
 it is a perennial plant. It ripens about the first of Sep- 
 tember, when the Indians gather it by pushing their 
 canoes into the thickest fields of it, — breaking down 
 the tops of the stalks, and beating out the grain with 
 their paddles, which falls upon a spread blanket in 
 their canoes. This is a labour which is performed 
 by the squaws. A great deal of chaff falls in with 
 the grain, which is afterwards partially fanned out 
 upon a blanket, but it is never got entirely clean. 
 The grain has a long cylindrical shape, and becomes 
 dark coloured and hard as it dries. It contains 
 more gluten than common rice, and is very nourish- 
 ing. It is simply boiled in water until it assumes a 
 pasty consistence, and it has an agreeable flavour. 
 The Indians have no salt, but make use of maple 
 sugar, when in season. They have no method of 
 reducing it into meal, but the squaws sometimes, in 
 cases of sickness, pound small quantities in a deer- 
 skin bag, and thus procure a kind of Hour of which 
 panada is made. 
 
 Three miles above the mouth of the St. Louis ri- 
 ver, there is a village of Chippeway Indians, of four- 
 teen lodges, and containing a population of about 
 sixty souls. Among these we noticed a negro who 
 has been long in the service of the fur company, and 
 who married a squaw, by whom he has four children. 
 It is worthy of remark, that the children are as black 
 as the nither, and have the curled hair and glossy 
 skin of the native African. It does not appear that 
 climate has had any more influence here, than it has 
 along the borders of the Atlantic, in ameliorating 
 the colour of this race. But this evidence is certain-
 
 203 
 
 ly not wanted in the present state of physical and 
 philosophical science, to establish the fact that the 
 radical colours of the different species of the hu- 
 man family, are independent of the influence of 
 climate. 
 
 A short distance above this, village, on the oppo- 
 site side of the river, are the ruins of one of the old 
 forts and trading houses of the northwest company, 
 which was abandoned about six years ago. The 
 site is elevated and pleasant, but the American com- 
 pany have not thought proper to re-occupy it, and 
 have fixed their establishment for the Fond du Lac 
 department, eighteen miles above, where the first 
 portage commences. By this change of site, they 
 save the labour of loading and unloading their ca- 
 noes at the mouth of the river. We arrived at the 
 company's house at seven o'clock in the evening. 
 The establishment consists of a range of log build- 
 ings, inclosing three sides of a square, open toward 
 the river, and containing the ware-house, canoe, and 
 boat yard, dwelling house of the resident clerk, and 
 accommodations for the voyageurs. There are about 
 four acres of ground under cultivation, upon which 
 potatoes are raised. No species of grain has been 
 tried. The department is supplied with wild rice 
 by the Indians, The buildings are situated upon an 
 alluvial plain elevated a few feet above the river, 
 and the site is healthy and pleasant. We here see 
 pines and sugar maple growing beside each other, 
 — which is, I believe, a rare occurrence. The com- 
 pany have recently sent up a number of agricultural 
 implements, with a view of experimenting upon the 
 soil and climate, together with three horses, two- 
 oxen, three cows, and four bulls. These animals 
 have been transported with great difficulty.
 
 2(M 
 
 The weather, since leaving the Ontonagon, has 
 been variable. We have had rain a part of two 
 days, and it has been misty, cloudy or stormy, the ba- 
 lance, of the time, with the exception of a part of 
 the' second of July, and the morning of this day. 
 The highest atmospheric heat during this time has 
 been 80°, and the average heat 64°. The wind has 
 blown successively N. N. W.—W, S. W.— S. S. W. 
 and N. E. The mean temperature of the water of 
 Lake Superior has been 61°* The following are 
 the stationary distances of the route. 
 
 From the Ontonagon to Iron River, 
 
 Carp River, and the Porcupine Mountains, 
 
 Presque Isle River, 
 
 Black River, 
 
 Montreal River, 
 
 La Mauvaise Riviere, (Bad River,) 
 
 Point Chegoimegon, 
 
 Cadolte's House, (Island of St. Michael,) 
 
 Fromboise, (Raspberry,) River, 
 
 Sandy River, 
 
 De Tour (foot of Fond du Lac J 
 
 Cranberry Creek, 
 
 Bois Brule (Burntwood) River, 
 
 Mouth of St. Louis River, or (Fond du Lac,) 
 
 Chippeway village, 
 
 American Fur Company's Establishment, 
 
 * Meteorological Observations on the journey from the Ontonagon to 
 the Fond du Lac. 
 
 Mies. 
 
 Tot. Miles, 
 
 15 
 
 
 15 
 
 30 
 
 6 
 
 36 
 
 6 
 
 42. 
 
 21 
 
 63 
 
 12 
 
 75 
 
 6 
 
 81 
 
 3 
 
 84 
 
 15 
 
 99 
 
 6 
 
 105 
 
 3 
 
 108 
 
 30 
 
 138 
 
 15 
 
 153 
 
 21 
 
 174 
 
 3 
 
 177 
 
 18 
 
 195 
 
 
 AIR. 
 
 WATER. jfhj 
 
 0. 
 £ ■- 
 
 be 
 
 .5 m 
 
 u 
 4? 
 
 5 
 M y. 
 
 | 
 
 A. M. | P. M. 
 
 A. M | P. M. (I g 
 
 £** gj 
 
 Jtt- 
 lyl 
 
 A 
 
 54 
 
 6 
 
 7\ 8 
 61 
 170 
 
 10, 2 
 
 75 
 
 75 76 
 
 
 
 so 
 
 65 
 
 6 
 68 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 63 
 
 6| 8 
 o4 
 
 65\ 
 68|~~ 
 
 6 
 
 7) 
 
 |64 
 
 67 
 
 
 2J60 
 
 62 64 
 
 68 
 
 WSW 
 
 Clear. 
 
 3 
 4 
 5| 
 
 70 
 
 57 1 
 |63 
 
 
 6(1 
 
 58 
 
 62 67 j 
 
 fid 
 L» 
 
 [63 
 
 .60 
 641 
 
 
 58|60 
 58 
 
 65 
 
 S1V 
 
 R;..t>. 
 
 6ll | 
 ~o|6o| 
 
 58 |ss\v 
 
 Mis y.j 
 
 163 
 
 6,-> 1 M, iGi 
 
 5:309 5 323 
 Water 6le 6-is? Air.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. I 
 
 J O U RJST E T 9 
 
 FROM THE FOXD DU LAC TO SAJYDY LAKE. 
 
 XLIV. Day.— (July 6th.) 
 
 ▼V E left the establishment at ten o'clock in the 
 morning. The river is ascended two miles further, 
 to the foot of the Grand Portage. Here the goods 
 are all landed, and the carrying commences, but the 
 canoes, without load, ascend two miles higher to 
 the Galley, where they are also taken out and car- 
 ried across. The first part of the portage is excess- 
 ively rough, and the fatigue was rendered almost in- 
 supportable by the heat of the day, the thermometer 
 standing at 82° at noon. With the assistance of the 
 Indians, (sixteen of whom were brought up from the 
 mouth of the river for that purpose,) we proceeded 
 however, with all our baggage, five pauses, and en- 
 camped at twilight. 
 
 XLV. Day. — (July 1th.) — A storm of rain commen- 
 ced during the night, and continued until noon, when 
 the sun appeared for half an hour, but the afternoon 
 continued dark* and cloudy, with showers. We
 
 206 
 
 commenced carrying at six o'clock, notwithstanding 
 the rain, and with great exertions, went ten pauses 
 and encamped on the banks of a small brook. The 
 difficulties of the portage have been very much in- 
 creased by the rain, which has filled the carrying 
 path with mud and water. We are advancing into 
 a dreary region. — Every thing around us wears a 
 wild and sterile aspect, and the extreme rugged ness 
 of the country — the succession of swampy grounds, 
 and rocky precipices — the dark forest of hemlock 
 and pines which overshadow the soil — and the dis- 
 tant roaring of the river, would render it a gloomy 
 and dismal scene, without the toil of transporting 
 baggage, and the saddening influence of one oi the 
 most dreary days. 
 
 XLVI. Day. — (July 8th.) — We progressed four 
 pauses, and reached the river at the head of the 
 portage, in season to air our baggage — repair the 
 canoes — and make the necessary dispositions for an 
 early departure on the following day. The entire 
 distance of this portage is nine miles, which is pass- 
 ed at nineteen pauses, divided according to the un- 
 evenness of the ground, and the facilities of travelling. 
 I have already mentioned that a pause is reckoned 
 at half a mile, but when the country is rough and the 
 way bad, it is much shorter, while on a level road, it 
 often exceeds that distance. The labour, however, 
 of travelling across a short pause is as great as that 
 of the longest, and about the same time is required 
 in crossing it, so that this term israther expressive 
 of a division of the labour of making a portage, than 
 of the geographical distance. The fall of the St. 
 Louis river, between the extremes oi this portage is
 
 207 
 
 very great, being one continued chain of rapids and 
 falls, and at one place there is a perpendicular pitch 
 of thirty feet Altogether, the descent may be esti- 
 mated at two hundred and twenty feet. It is here 
 that the river forces a passage through a chain of 
 mountains consisting of short broken ridges, which 
 give the country a very rugged appearance, and 
 render the travelling excessively toilsome. Where 
 we leave the river at the foot of the portage, these 
 ridges consist of red sand stone rocks in horizontal 
 layers, but on reaching the head of the portage, we 
 find the banks of the river composed of slate, (argil- 
 lite^ ) in a vertical position, traversed by veins of 
 greenstone and milky quartz. The change in the 
 rock strata takes place at some intermediate point, 
 which was not precisely noticed. At the foot of the 
 portage I picked up among the loose stones along the 
 shore, a specimen of the micaceous oxide of iron, 
 and some pyrites were also found at that place. 
 While examining the argillite above, I discovered a 
 vein of graphite (plumbago or blacklead) between 
 the vertical layers of that rock, but of an indifferent 
 quality for economical purposes. Probably the in- 
 terior of the vein would yield this mineral in a more 
 perfect form. Large detached blocks of black crys- 
 tallized hornblende rock are found scattered alonsr 
 the shore of the river, but this rock is not observed 
 in situ. A stratum of alluvial soil, of two or three 
 feet in depth rests upon the slate. It also contains 
 imbedded masses of hornblende, together with gra- 
 nite, quartz, and argillite, and a thin sub-stratum of 
 vegetable mould overlays all. The growth of trees 
 is pine, hemlock, spruce, birch, oak, and maple, the 
 former predominating. In clambering among the
 
 208 t 
 
 rocks along the river, I found the red raspberry ripe. 
 This appears to be the common rubus strigosus, 
 with a thornless stem, — berries a scarlet red, very 
 sweet, — acines slightly adhering. Where depres- 
 sions exist in the surface of the soil, so that it re- 
 mains wet and marshy, the tamarack is found, and 
 the white cedar is seen overhanging the cliffs on the 
 banks of the river, and adds very much to the pic- 
 turesque appearance of the St. Louis at this place. 
 
 XLVII. Day.— {July 9(h.)— On reaching the foot 
 of the Grand Portage, we exchanged two of our larg- 
 est canoes with the American Fur Company, for 
 four of smaller size adapted to the navigation of the 
 river above the portage, and now proceeded on 
 our voyage in seven small canoes. The river is as- 
 cended six miles to the Portage aux Coteaux, which 
 consists of three pauses, and is a mile and a half 
 across. The carrying path lies over an elevated 
 tract of rough country consisting of slate in a verti- 
 cal position, which is in many places naked, and 
 some idea may be formed of the singular appear- 
 ance of the rock, by comparing it to the leaves of a 
 book standing edgewise. The effect of this arrange- 
 ment of the strata, upon the mockasins and feet of 
 the voyageurs, who cross this portage has led to its 
 name — the portage of knives. At the lower end of 
 it, this slate forms a lone standing pile, or pyramid, in 
 the centre of the river, of eighty or ninety feet in 
 height, and supporting in its crevices a few stunted 
 cedars and pines. The banks on either side are 
 comparatively low at the water's edge, but preserve 
 the same geological character and position, and at a 
 short distance back, rise to a corresponding eleva-
 
 209 
 
 tion. It appears evident that the river has here rent 
 and worn a passage through the rock, as it must have 
 done at innumerable other places, in its rapid and 
 rugged course. The growth of trees here is almost 
 exclusively cedar, pine, and spruce. We encamp- 
 ed at the head of the portage at an early hour in the 
 afternoon. Here the river has a perpendicular fall 
 of fourteen feet. At the foot of it there is a vein of 
 chlorite slate, about two hundred yards below the 
 fall on the west shore. At this place we also found 
 the red raspberry. A tall elm which overshadows 
 the little green which has been formed on the bank 
 oithe river, at the head of the portage, in connexion 
 with the fall and surrounding woods and rocks, 
 throws an air of rural beauty over this scene — 
 
 li So wond'rous wild, the whole might seem 
 11 The scenery of a fairy dream." 
 
 XLVIII. Day.— {July 1 Of A.)— The difficulties at- 
 tending our ascent of the St. Louis river, induced 
 the Governor to determine on detaching a part of 
 the expedition across the country by land, to Sandy 
 Lake, whenever we should arrive at an eligible 
 spot. For this purpose two Chippeway guides, of the 
 Fond du Lac band, had been brought along from the 
 head of the Grand Portage, and this was the place 
 chosen for the separation. The party thus detached, 
 consisted of eight soldiers under the command of 
 Lieut. Mackay, accompanied by Mr. Doty. Mr. Trow- 
 bridge, Mr. Chase, and myself together with an in- 
 terpreter of the Chippeway language, and the two 
 Indian guides — sixteen in all. The route was repre- 
 sented as capable of being performed in two day's 
 
 27
 
 210 
 
 journey, if no accident occurred. We left the camp 
 at the head of the portage at 6 o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, each carrying a pack containing five day's 
 provisions, a knife, a musquitoe bar, and a cloak 
 or blanket. Several were armed, but others left 
 their guns, as it was thought we should see little 
 game, and they would be cumbersome in travelling. 
 Our guides taking their course by the sun, immedi- 
 ately struck into a close matted forest of pine and 
 hemlock, through which we urged our way with some 
 di j'.culty. On travelling two miles we fell into an 
 Indian path, leading in the required direction, which 
 w r e followed until it became lost in swamps. After 
 pursuing it two miles, we passed through a succes- 
 sion of ponds and marshes, where the mud and water 
 were in some places half leg deep. These marshes 
 continued four miles, and were succeeded by a strip 
 of three miles of open dry sandy barren, covered 
 with shrubbery, and occasionally clumps of pitch 
 pines. This terminated in a thick forest of hem- 
 lock and spruce, of a young growth, which continu- 
 ed two miles and brought us to the banks of a small 
 lake, with clear water and a pebbly shore. Having 
 no canoe to cross, we took a circuitous route around 
 its southern shore, through thick woods and swamps, 
 where the difficulty of travelling was very much in- 
 creased, by fallen trees and brush. In order to 
 avoid these difficulties, on approaching the head 
 of this lake, we walked along the shore of it and 
 occasionally in the water, and here we picked 
 up several beautiful specimens of agate and carnelian. 
 We now again fell into the Indian path which led us 
 to two sm 11 lakes, similar in size to the Carnelian 
 lake, but with marshy shores, and reddish water, and
 
 211 
 
 filled with pond flowers, rushes, and fblle avoine. At 
 the second lake the path ceased at the water's edge, 
 and our guides could not afterwards find it. Here 
 they found a large green tortoise, which they killed 
 in a very ingenious and effectual way, by a blow with 
 a hatchet upon the neck, at the point where the un- 
 der part of the shell serves as a sheath to it. 1 had 
 never before seen the tortoise killed in so expeditious 
 a manner: it was carried along to be eaten at night. 
 They here appeared to be in doubt about the way. 
 We now entered the great tamarack swamp, in which 
 we progressed about eight miles, and encamped at 5 
 o'clock near the shore of the third lake, having tra- 
 velled eleven hours, and passed a distance ot about 
 twenty miles. The weather in the morning was 
 cloudy, and rain commenced about seven o'clock, 
 and continued at intervals all day. The thermome- 
 ter at 6 A. M. stood at 53°,— at 12 A. M. at 72°, and 
 at 6 P. M. 31°. The sun was not visible during the 
 day. The principal forest trees are tamarack (jpinus 
 pendula,) yellow pine, cedar, spruce, and birch. The 
 winter green has been common on the piue bar- 
 rens, the sarsaparilla (aralia nundicaidis) in the for- 
 ests. 
 
 XLIX. Day. — {July 11th.) — On quitting our en- 
 campment this morning, the Indians left a memorial 
 of our journey inscribed upon bark, for the informa- 
 tion of such of their tribe as should happen to fall up- 
 on our track. This we find to be a common cus- 
 tom among them. It is done by tracing, either with 
 paint or with their knives upon birch bark, (betula 
 j)upy<acea) a number of figures and hieroglyphics 
 which are understood by their nation. This sheet
 
 212 
 
 of bark is afterwards inserted in the end of a pole, 
 blazed, and drove into the ground, with an in- 
 clination towards the course of travelling. In the 
 present instance the whole party were represented 
 in a manner that was perfectly intelligible, with the 
 aid of our interpreter, each one being characterized 
 by something emblematic of his situation or employ- 
 ment. They distinguish the Indian from the white 
 man, by the particular manner of drawing the figure, 
 the former being without a hat, &c. Other distinctive 
 symbols are employed, thus — Lieut. Mackay was fi- 
 gured with a sword to signify that he was an officer, 
 — Mr. Doty, with a book, the Indians having under- 
 stood that he was an attorney, — myself, v» ith a ham- 
 mer, in allusion to the mineral hammer I carried in 
 my belt, &c. The figure of a tortoise and prairy hen, 
 denoted that these had been killed, — three smokes 
 —that our encampment consisted of three fires, — 
 eight muskets, — that this was the number armed, — 
 three hacks upon the pole, leaning N. W. that we 
 were going three days N. W. — the figure of a white 
 man with a tongue near his mouth, (like the Azteek 
 hieroglyphics) that he was an interpreter,&c. Should 
 an Indian hereafter visit this spot, he would there- 
 fore read upon this memorial of bark, — that four- 
 teen white men and two Indians encamped at that 
 place, — that five of the white men were chiefs or of- 
 ficers, — one an interpreter, — and eight common sol- 
 diers, — that they were going to Sandy Lake, (know- 
 ing three days journey N. W. must carry us there) — 
 that we were armed with eight guns, and a sword, — 
 that we had killed a tortoise, a prairy hen, &c. I 
 had no previous idea of the existence of such a medi- 
 um of intelligence among the northern Indians. AH
 
 213 
 
 the travellers of the region, are silent on the subject 
 I had before witnessed the facility with which one 
 of the lake Indians had drawn a map of certain parts 
 of the southern coast of Lake Superior, but here uas 
 a historical record of passing events, as permanent 
 certainly as any written record among us, and full 
 as intelligible to those for whom it was intended. 
 We left our encampment at seven o'clock, and after 
 travelling nine hours in the Tamarack swamp, en- 
 camped, having progressed by estimation, 14 miles. 
 This has been the most fatiguing days journey 
 onthe tour, and several of our party lay down at 
 night in a complete state of exhaustion. Even 
 our Indian guides demanded a halt. All that could 
 render travelling tiresome and perplexing, has been 
 encountered — swamps— mud — bog — windfalls — stag- 
 nant water — the want of spots sufficiently dry to sit 
 down upon — and of water that could be drank, have 
 successively opposed our progress, and enhanced the 
 labour of the journey. To increase these perplexi- 
 ties, our guides seemed uncertain of their way, and 
 we wandered about among bogs and morasses, 
 without the satisfaction of knowing that we approach- 
 ed nearer to the place we were in search of. While 
 toiling our way through this dreary and inhospitable 
 region, the remark of the Baron La Hontan, respect- 
 ing the northwestern region of Canada, that it is " the 
 fag end of the world," came forcibly to mind. It was 
 probably by reverting, under similar circumstances 
 to the smiling regions of the south of France, his 
 native country, that the Baron was induced to throw 
 out this geographical anathema. Without applying 
 the remark to the whole region of the northwest, 
 or presuming to say, that this particular section of it
 
 214 
 
 is indicated by the lowest degree in the scale of coun- 
 tries geologically cursed, it may be remarked, 
 that it is subject to the influence of a winter atmos- 
 phere for nine months in the year, and that it can 
 never be rendered subservient to the purposes of 
 agriculture, or traversed by roads. Even the Indians 
 never visit it except during the winter season upoa 
 the ice, for the purpose of taking the marten, beaver, 
 and muskrat. The dreadful storms which prevail 
 here at certain seasons, are indicated by the prostra- 
 tion of entire forests, and the up-rooting of the firm- 
 est trees. These lie invariably pointing towards the 
 southeast, indicating the strongest winds to prevail 
 from the opposite point. It is one of the most fatigu- 
 ing labours of the route, to cross these immense 
 windfalls, — the trees are chiefly tamarack, spruce, 
 cedar, ash, white birch, and hemlock. In the course 
 of the day we have crossed a turbid stream running 
 towards the south, called Akeek Sccbe (kettle river,) 
 which is tributary to the Missisawgaiegon which en- 
 ters the Mississippi, a short distance above the falls 
 of St. Anthony, after having passed in the intermedi- 
 ate distance through the Great Spirit Lake. 
 
 L. Day. — {July 12th.)— The dampness of the ground 
 upon which we lay, and the torment of the musqui- 
 toes, gave us little rest. We commenced our march 
 at five o'clock, and after travelling twelve hours pas- 
 sed out of the great swamp, and encamped upon the 
 banks of a small stream called Buflaloe creek, which 
 is tributary to Sandy Lake. Here our guides came 
 to a country which they recognised, and by their re- 
 iterated shouts convinced us that they were no less 
 overjoyed than ourselves u^on this discovery. In a
 
 215 
 
 short time they pointed out to us hacked trees and 
 bushes where they had formerly passed, which en- 
 tirely restored our lost confidence, and before night 
 we fell into an Indian trail which they followed with 
 as much apparent facility and confidence as an Amer- 
 ican traveller would a turnpike road, although we 
 could seldom distinguish the marks and signs by which 
 they were guided. We compute this day's journey at 
 20 miles. In crossing the swamp w r e found the cran- 
 berry (oxy coccus macrocarpus) in great abundance. 
 Upon the same bog were to be seen the fruit of last 
 year's growth, the green berries of ' n oresent sea- 
 son, and flowers that were just expa.- ing. The 
 agreeable taste of this berry was a gratefi treat, at a 
 time when we were much fatigued, by travelling for 
 many miles over an elastic open bog where no 
 drink-water could be procured. 
 
 LI. Day. — (July 1 3th.) — We were aroused between 
 four and five o'clock by a shower of rain, and after 
 taking our customary breakfast of dried beef and 
 biscuit, pursued the Indian trail towards Sandy 
 Lake, which we reached after travelling fourteen 
 miles, at 12 o'clock. Our path after leaving the 
 swamps lay across a succession of sandy ridges, co- 
 vered with white and yellow pine, with some poplar 
 and thickets of underbrush in the valleys, and alto- 
 gether, of a barren appearance. In crossing these I 
 noticed among the shrubbery the witch hazel, sarsa- 
 parilla, wild cherry, kinnikinick, and the Labrador 
 tea plant, (ledum latifolium of Pursh.) Imbedded in the 
 sandy alluvion of these ridges are found scattered 
 masses of hornblende, granite, argillite, sand stone, 
 milky and red ferruginous quartz, jasper, and carneli-
 
 21b 
 
 an. The largest masses consist of granite and horn- 
 blende. The carneiian is in small fragments of a red 
 colour, sometimes clouded or striped with white, 
 or pale yellow The blue jay, and brown thresher, 
 the pigeon and turtle dove occasionally appeared in 
 the forest, to enliven this part of the journey. On 
 approaching the lake we ascended a lofty pine ridge, 
 which forms its southern barrier, and commands one 
 of the most charming views of this romantic little 
 lake, which suddenly rose to our impatient sight 
 like a " burnished sheet of living gold" that gleam- 
 ing with the declining sun — 
 
 iC In all her length far winding lay 
 " With promontory, creek, and bay ; 
 11 And islands that empurpled bright 
 " Floated amid the livelier light; 
 " And mountains that like giants stand 
 " To sentinel enchanted land.'' — Ssott. 
 
 The Indian name for this lake is Kom-toncr-gog-o« 
 aiog, — the Canadians call it Lac du Sable : both are 
 significant of its sandy shores. It is about five miles 
 iong, by four in breadth, and twelve in circumfer- 
 ence, — of a very irregular shape, with innumera >Ie 
 islands,— bays,— and points, some of which project into 
 it half its width. Strewed along its shores, we find 
 detached fragments of granite, and other rocks, to- 
 gether with carnelian, agate, jasper, and hornstone. 
 The adjoining lands are hilly and covered with pine. 
 The islands are characterized by oak. It has an out- 
 let by which, at the distance of two miles, it commu- 
 nicates with the Mississippi river. On this lake the 
 American Fur Company have an establishment, 
 which we in vain endeavoured to descry on first
 
 217 
 
 reaching the eminence that overlooked it. We car- 
 rip d a letter to the clerks from the agent of the es- 
 tablishment, Mr. Morrison, whom we met, on our 
 passage through Lake Superior, on his annual return 
 to LMichilimackinac, and were informed that a gun 
 fired upon any part of it could be heard at the 
 fort, (as it is called.) Our first care, therefore, on 
 reaching the shore, was to fire a volley of musketry, 
 to advertise them of our approach, and procure a 
 boat to take us across. As it seemed to produce no 
 effect the signal was reiterated, and at last two men 
 were descried in a canoe, cautiously approaching. 
 They appeared to be in doubt whether we were 
 white men or Indians, — friends or foes, — but we soon 
 convinced them by parading our soldiers upon the 
 beach, and by signals, that we were Americans and 
 friends. On reaching us they proved to be the two 
 clerks of the company's establishment, to whom ve 
 carried an introductory letter. They were not less 
 surprised at our appearance, than we overjoyed 
 at theirs, and while passing across the lake, they re- 
 lated the singular effect which our firing had produ- 
 ced at their establishment, and in the contiguous In- 
 dian village. The Indians of this region being at war 
 with the Sioux, had mistaken the firing for an attack 
 of that nation upon some part of their tribe, and were 
 thrown into the utmost consternation. Some of the 
 women pretended to have heard the war whoop, and 
 all were unprepared, totally, for such an encounter. 
 The possibility of its being a straggling party of 
 hunters, had occurred to them, but they did not ven- 
 tui-e to reconnoitre us until they had driven off their 
 cattle and secured them in the woods, and made 
 some other dispositions suggested on the emergency. 
 
 28
 
 218 
 
 We reached the fort a short time before sunset. 
 It i* situated on a sandy point, on the south shore of 
 the lake, near its outlet, and consists of a stockade 
 one hundred feet square, with bastions at the south- 
 cast, and northwest angles, pierced for musketry. 
 The pickets are of pitch pine, thirteen feet above 
 the ground, and a foot square, and pinned together 
 with stout plates of the same wood. There are 
 three gates, the principal one facing the north, which 
 are shut whenever liquor is dealt out to the Indians. 
 The stockade incloses two ranges of buildings con- 
 taining the provision store, workshop, ware house, 
 rooms for the clerks, and accommodations for the 
 men. On the west and northwest angles of the fort 
 ihere are four acres of ground inclosed with pickets, 
 devoted to the culture of potatoes. No garden vege- 
 tables, or grain are attempted to be raised. This 
 is one of the posts visited by Lieut. Pike, in 1806, 
 and there are still several people here who remem- 
 ber that visit, it was then occupied by the North- 
 west Company, by whom it was first erected in 1794. 
 
 Lll Day. — {Juty 141ft.) — This morning we em- 
 barked, accompanied by one of the clerks of the 
 company's establishment, and sixteen Indians of the 
 Sandy Lake band, to meet the expedition on the 
 Savannah Portage, and assist in carrying the bag- 
 gage across. On going a league we landed in a bay 
 on the northeast shore of the lake, and proceeded 
 along an old trail, leading to the west end of the port- 
 age, where we arrived about twelve o'clock, at noon, 
 and to our surprise found a part of the baggage al- 
 ready there. Governor Cass, and some of the gen- 
 tlemen who accomoanied him from the Portasre aux 
 
 ■
 
 219 
 
 Coteaux, -had also arrived, and in the course of an 
 hour, we had the pleasure of seeing the whole party 
 there, but it was five o'clock in the evening before 
 the last baggage and canoes were carried over, and 
 it was then concluded to encamp. The expedition 
 after our departure from the Portage aux Coteaux, 
 on the tenth, proceeded up the St. Louis about twen- 
 ty miles against a strong current, in the course of 
 which they ascended the Grand Rapids, where the 
 river was estimated to have a fall of 90 feet, in six: 
 miles. — On the eleventh, they proceeded thirty-three 
 miles, and encamped at the mouth of the Savannah 
 river. — On the twelfth, they ascende 1 that river 
 to within two miles of its source, and there left two 
 of the canoes which had been procured of the Ameri- 
 can Fur Company. — On the thirteenth, they proceed- 
 ed three pauses upon the portage. — These three paus- 
 es were a perfect quagmire, in which the men often 
 sank half-thigh deep into the mud. — On the four- 
 teenth, they moved ten pauses to the west end of the 
 portage, where we rejoined them after a separation 
 of five days. The geological character of the coun- 
 try in the intermediate distance, is considerably di- 
 versified. Having requested Dr. VVolcott, on leav- 
 ing the Portage aux Coteaux, to note the geological 
 appearances of the country, he obligingly furnished 
 me with the following observations: 
 
 " July 1 Oth. — We left the vertical strata of slate, 
 about two miles above the head of the Portage aux 
 Coteaux. They were succeeded by rocks of horn- 
 blende, which continued the whole distance to the 
 head of the Grand Rapid. These rocks were only 
 to be observed in the bed of the r yer, and appeared
 
 220 
 
 to be much water-worn, and manifestly out of place. 
 Soon alter we left the Portage aux Coteaux, the hills 
 receded from the river, and its banks for the rest 
 of the way were generally low, — often alluvial, — and 
 always covered with a thick growth of birch, elm, 
 sugar tree, (accr saccharinum^) and the whole tribe of 
 pines, with an almost impenetrable thicket of under- 
 brush. 
 
 " July 11th. — The appearances of this day have 
 been similar to those of yesterday, except that the 
 country bordering the river, became entirely alluvi- 
 al, and the poplar became the predominating growth 
 while the evergreen almost entirely disappeared. 
 The rocks were seldom visible except upon the ra- 
 pids, and then only in the bed of the river, and were 
 entirely composed of hornblende all out of place, and 
 exhibiting no signs of stratification, but evidently 
 thrown confusedly together by the force of the cur- 
 rent. 
 
 " July 12th. — The Savannah river is about twenty 
 yards broad at its junction with the St. Louis, but 
 soon narrows to about half the breadth, which it re- 
 tains until it forks at the distance of twelve miles 
 from its mouth. Its whole course runs through a 
 low marshy meadow the timbered land occasionally 
 reaching to the banks of the river, but generally 
 keeping a distance of about twenty rods on either 
 side. The meadow is for the most part covered with 
 tufts of willow and other shrubs, common to marsh- 
 es. The woods, which skirt it, are of the same kinds 
 observed on the preceding days, except that a spe- 
 cies of small oak, frequently appears among it. The
 
 221 
 
 river becomes so narrow towards its head, that it is 
 with great difficulty canoes can make their way 
 through its windings; and the portage commences a 
 mile or two from its source, which is in a tamarack 
 swamp." 
 
 The descent of the St. Louis river in the same dis- 
 tance, according to the estimate kept by Dr. Wol- 
 cott, # is two hundred and thirty feet. The length 
 of the Savannah portage is six miles, and is passed 
 at thirteen pauses. The first three pauses are shock- 
 ingly bad. It is not only a bed of mire, but the difficul- 
 ty of passing it is greatly increased by fallen troes, 
 limbs, and sharp knots of the pitch pine, in some places 
 on the surface, in others imbedded one or two feet 
 below Where there are hollows or depressions in 
 the ground, tall coarse grass, brush, and pools of 
 stagnant water are encountered. Old voyageurs 
 say, that this part of the portage was formerly cov- 
 ered with a heavy bog, or a kind of peat, upon which 
 the walking was very good, but that during a dry 
 season, it accidentally caught fire and burnt over 
 the surface of the earth so as to lower its level two 
 or three feet when it btcame mirey, and subject to 
 
 Miles. Feet 
 
 *From the head of the Portage aux Coteaux, to 
 
 the Isle aux Plaie, distance 
 
 To the Isle aux Pins, 
 
 To the head of said Tsle, 
 
 To the foot of the Grand Rapide, 
 
 To the head of the Grand Rapide- 
 
 To Glukie Rapide, 
 
 To the head of ditto. 
 
 To Grosse Roche, 
 
 To Savannah river, 
 
 To the Portage, 
 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 
 (i 
 
 90 
 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 
 7 . 
 S 
 
 5 
 
 
 21 
 
 12 6 
 
 
 12 
 
 72 
 
 
 24 
 
 IS 
 
 Tola! fail in 
 
 80 f 
 
 230 6
 
 222 
 
 inundation from the Savannah river. The country, 
 after passing the third pause, changes in a short dis- 
 tance, from a marsh to a region of sand hills covered 
 mostly with white and yellow pine, intermixed with 
 aspen. The hills are short and conical, with a mod- 
 erate elevation. In some places they are drawn 
 out into ridges, but these ridges cannot be observed 
 to run in any uniform course ; on the contrary they 
 are confused in their arrangement. The country 
 has a general rise from the East to the West Savan- 
 nah, which may be estimated at thirty feet. This is 
 the dividing ridge between the waters of Lake Su- 
 perior, and the Mississippi river. Where the portage 
 path approaches the sources of the West Savannah 
 there is a descent into a small valley covered with 
 rank grass — without forest trees — and here and there 
 clumps of willows, similar to those on the East Sa- 
 vannah. This valley is skirted with a thick and 
 brushy growth of alder, aspen, hazel, &c. The ad- 
 joining hills are sandy, covered with pine. The 
 stream here is just large enough to swim a canoe, 
 and the navigation commences within a mile of its 
 source. It pursues a very serpentine course to San- 
 dy Lake, in a general direction northwest, and has 
 several rapids. The thermometer this day stood at 
 80° at noon. 
 
 LIII. Day. — {July 15th.) — At five o'clock in the 
 morning we commenced our descent. The water 
 being very shallow, only two men were allowed to 
 embark in each canoe; the remainder of the party 
 proceeded on foot by the path we yesterday came 
 up. On descending four miles, there is a portage of 
 six hundred yards where half the baggage is carried
 
 222 
 
 across, but the canoes go over the rapids with halt- 
 loads. Here the men were halted to assist. Eight 
 miles lower there is another portage of four or five 
 hundred yards, where the same labour is performed. 
 The river here receives a tributary from the south, 
 called Ox creek, and from the point of its junction 
 the navigation is good at all seasons, to Sandy Lake, 
 a distance of six miles. It is one league from the 
 mouth of the West Savannah to the company's fort, 
 where the expedition arrived at four o'clock in the 
 afternoon. We were received with a salute from 
 the Indians a la mode de savage, with balls. The 
 custom of firing salutes was introduced into this re- 
 gion by the North West Company, who were in the 
 habit of receiving their agents and clerks, on their 
 annual return from Montreal, with this mark of re- 
 spect. But the Indians never use blank cartridges 
 on these occasions, the precise reason for which I 
 did not learn. The balls dropped in the water all 
 around us, and it would seem as if they were appa- 
 rantly trying how near they could strike to the canoes 
 without endangering our lives. . The Sandy Lake 
 band of Indians consists at present of one hundred 
 and twenty souls, but it appears to have been much 
 larger, at a former period. Pike states the numeri- 
 cal force of this band in 1800, at three hundred and 
 forty-eight, forty-five of whom were warriors, seven- 
 ty-nine women, and two hundred and twenty-four 
 children. The principal chief is Bookoo-sainge-gon, 
 or Broken Arm. It is also the residence of De 
 Breche, who exercises something like an imperial 
 sway among the Chippeway bands, inhabiting the 
 sources of the Mississippi. This band subsists by 
 hunting the beaver, otter, muskrat, moose, marten,
 
 224 
 
 wolverine, and black and silver fox. They hav« 
 neither the deer, buffaloe, or elk. In the fall they 
 gather large quantities of the wild rice, which is the 
 o»;Sy bread stufFofthe region. ISo corn is ever rais- 
 ed. Their hunting grounds extend east to the Fond 
 du Lac band at the head of Lake Superior, north to 
 the Rainy Lakes, west to the Leech Lake tribe, and 
 south to the Mississippi prairies of the Sioux coun- 
 tries. Like all the erratic bands of Chippeways, 
 they speak the Algonquin language, and are at war 
 with the Sioux. The remarks that are applicable 
 to one of these bands, are equally so to all, for they 
 exhibit little diversity as to their mode of living, 
 dress, habits, and opinions. Notwithstanding the ad- 
 vantages of a long intercourse with Europeans, they 
 may still be represented as exhibiting human society 
 in one of its rudest possible forms, and remain essen- 
 tially without agriculture, without arts, and without 
 religion. Their physical constitution is generally 
 excellent. Inhabiting a hardy climate, where the 
 influence of winter is experienced eight months ia 
 the year, they have acquired a hardihood of body,— - 
 a patience under hunger and long suffering, — and a 
 contempt for the inclemencies of the weather, which 
 is peculiar to the savage tribes of the north ; and we 
 uc tempted to apply to them the remark which Po- 
 libius makes concerning the Arcadians, " that the 
 cold and gloomy climate of Arcadia, gives the inhab- 
 itants a harsh and austere aspect ; ibr it is natural 
 that men, in their manners, figure, complexion, and 
 institutions, should resemble their climate." They 
 tear also, since the Six Nations have dropped 
 their ancient character, to possess in a higher de- 
 cree, than any other tribe, that heroic contempt of
 
 225 
 
 death, and manly fortitude under the pressure of mis- 
 fortune, which is so finely described by one of our 
 colonial poets, — 
 
 " Begin ye tormentors, your threats are in vain, 
 *' For the sons of Alknomook shall never complain." 
 
 Fbenau. 
 
 M A man," says the Baron La Hontan, " is not 
 a man with us, any further than riches will make 
 him so ; but among them the true qualifications of a 
 man are, to run well, — to hunt, — to bend the bow, 
 and manage the fusee, — to work a canoe, — to under- 
 stand war, — to know forests,- — to subsist upon a little, 
 — to build cottages, — to fell trees, and to be able to 
 travel an hundred leagues in a wood, without any 
 guide, or other provision than his bow and arrows."* 
 
 Pike states the collective strength of the Chippe- 
 way tribes at eleven thousand one hundred and se- 
 venty-seven, two thousand and iorty-nine of whom are 
 warriors, three thousand one hundred and eighty-five 
 women, and five thousand nine hundred and forty- 
 four children.f They consist of innumerable petty 
 bands, scattered over the immense region from De- 
 troit to the sources of the Mississippi, and the Red 
 River of Hudson's Bay. In no place is there 
 any large body permanently located, the internal 
 bands generally consist of from thirty to sixty war- 
 riors. It is owing to this great distribution of foice, 
 that they have been enabled to maintain so long 
 and successful a war with their more powerful 
 neighbours, the Siou?, for it has been a defensive. 
 
 * La Hontan's Voyages, Vol. 2. p. 9. 
 
 t See Pike's Expeditious. 
 
 29
 
 22o 
 
 war on their part; and by living in small detache<3 
 bands, they have rendered the superior power of the 
 Sioux in a great measure useless, and have been en- 
 abled to evade their attacks, and often to foil upon 
 them to great advantage. They have relied chiefly 
 upon their cunning and dexterity, while the Sioux 
 have placed too much confidence in their superi- 
 or numbers. " This nation," says Liect. Pike, " is 
 more mild and docile than the Sioux ; and if we may 
 judge from unprejudiced observers, more cool and 
 deliberate in action; but the latter possess a much 
 higher sense of the honour of their nation : the Chip- 
 peways plan for self-preservation. The Sioux at- 
 tack with impetuosity ; the others defend with every 
 necessary precaution. But the superior number of 
 the Sioux, would have enabled them to have anni- 
 hilated the Chippeways long since, had it not been 
 for the nature of their country, which entirely pre- 
 cludes the possibility of an attack on horseback. 
 Also, gives them a decided advantage over an ene- 
 mv, who. being half armed with arrows, the least, 
 tv. ;/ of a bush turns the shaft of death out ot its di- 
 fection. Whereas, the whizzing bullet holds it© 
 course, nor spends its force short of its destined vic- 
 tim. Thus, we Generally have found,- that when en- 
 gaged in a prairie, the Sioux came o(f victorious : 
 but if in the woods, even, if not obliged to retreat, 
 the carcasses of their slaughtered brethren shew 
 bow dearly they purchase the victory." Very few 
 of the Chippeway bauds have fixed habitations,, 
 and their erratic disposition appears to be attri- 
 butable, in a great measure, to the poverty of the 
 regions they inhabit, and the inclemency of their 
 climate. Throughout a great proportion of th^r
 
 227 
 
 region no corn can be cultivated, and when their 
 game, or fish, or wild rice fails them, they are 
 compelled to change their residence in quest of 
 food. All the bands are subject to their own chiefs, 
 who are elected for their superior acquirements as 
 hunters, warriors, or orators. The same climate, 
 however, which renders them a scanty subsistence, 
 exempts them from other evils, with which their 
 southern neighbours are afflicted. Sickness and dis- 
 ease are almost unknown in their territories. They 
 are wholly exempted from the bilious complaints of 
 the southern latitudes of our continent. Their mode 
 of life also favours a healthful constitution of body, — 
 open air, — free exercise, — without exhausting fa- 
 tigue, and a simple diet, exempt them from a train of 
 diseases incident to refined society. It has been said 
 that their wandering mode of life, and the rapidity 
 of their marches through the woods, generally proves 
 fatal to such as are stricken by age or infirmity ; and 
 that ill-formed children are destroyed by their moth- 
 ers in infancy. Nothing has, however, been observ- 
 ed to strengthen this opinion. It is probable indivi- 
 dual cases of such barbarity, (and those of extreme 
 deformity,) have occurred, but there does not appear 
 to prevail any general custom in regard to it. On 
 the contrary, several naturally deformed savages- 
 which we have seen, appear to disprove the preva- 
 lence of such a custom, or may, at least, be looked 
 upon as instances of the humanity and attachment of 
 their mothers. 
 
 There are no bands of the northern Indians who go 
 entirely without clothes, even in the hottest summer 
 weather ; and like all other savages they possess a 
 great fondness for grotesque ornaments of feathers^
 
 220 
 
 skins, bones, and claws of animals. Thev have also 
 an unconquerable passion for silver bands, beads, 
 rings, and all light, showy, and fantastic articles of 
 European manufacture. When silver cannot be 
 procured thev use copper, which is a native product 
 of the region, and is beaten out by them in a rude 
 way with a hatchet upon a stone, and afterwards 
 rubbed smooth. The women being compelled to 
 do the work and drudgery of savage life, have less 
 opportunity and time for dress, but their taste, in this 
 respect, remains the same, and whenever they can 
 procure them, dress themselves with the most gaudy 
 articles. They do not, however, use feathers, an 
 ornament which appears exclusively appropriated 
 to the men and warriors. The great occasions which 
 draw them out in all their finery, are war and feast- 
 ing. War and feasting, form, however, the great em- 
 ployments of savage society, when it has not been 
 ameliorated by European intercourse. The north- 
 ern savages play several games at cards, and have 
 an inordinate passion for gambling, which carries 
 them to such excesses, that they will stake their 
 arm-bands, rings, and other articles of ornament, or 
 dress This practice which was probably first intro- 
 duced by the French Couriers du Bois is attended 
 by all the bad consequences, without any of the ad- 
 vantages resulting from it, in civilized society — for 
 they never play for amusement. Hence many of 
 their quarrels and murders are attributable to gam- 
 bling disputes. 
 
 It has been remarked that the North American 
 Indians have tamed no wild animals, so as to render 
 them subservient to the purposes of domestic econo- 
 my. To this remark their dogs arc a'? exception.
 
 229 
 
 rbr they appear to be nothing more than the tamed 
 wolf, and tamed fox, in some instances a mixed 
 breed, and in all possessing the essential characters 
 of these two animals. 1 hey have a long pointed 
 head, sharp ears, and long coarse grey hair, and 
 cannot bark in the manner of the European dog. 
 This has given Buffon occasion to say, that dogs 
 which have been transported from Europe to Ame- 
 rica, suffer so much under the deteriorating influ- 
 ence of our climate, that they completely loose the 
 power of barking. The domesticated wolf, or Indian 
 dog, has a sullen growl, and where there is no inter- 
 mixture, retains its primitive howl, which it is easy 
 to distinguish from that of the true dog. 
 
 Notwithstanding the abundance of wild Hcp in 
 this region, there is a great part of the year that they 
 subsist without this article, owing to their want of 
 industry and foresight in gathering a sufficient quan- 
 tity before it is destroyed by the myriads of aquatic 
 fowl, which it attracts; and also to their improvidence 
 in living riotously upon it in the harvest season, without 
 thinking of the coming winter. The bands of Chip- 
 pevvays and Ottaways inhabiting the peninsula of 
 Michigan, plant corn. Northwest of I he Sault de St. 
 Marie, the Indians may be represented as wholly 
 without agriculture. When their wild rice is gone, 
 they rely chiefly upon the fish which are abundant 
 in all the northern lakes. Hunting is less an object 
 to procure meat, than to procure furs, the animals 
 being mostly of the small and well-furred kind. In 
 times of great scarcity, they resort to several roots, 
 of an alimentary character, afforded by the region, 
 and which like the manioc of the native Brizilians, 
 supplies the place of bread. The principal of these
 
 230 
 
 Lt> the Indian potatoe, a production that remains un- 
 noticed in American Botany. What analogy it bears, 
 if any, to the tuckaho of the southern states, of which 
 a description has lately been read before the New- 
 York Lyceum, by Dr. John Torrey, I am unable to 
 say. When caught without this resource, and game 
 failing, they are often known to gather up the 
 bleached bones in the woods, and by long boiling in 
 water, extract some nutritive matter, which is drank 
 in the form of a soup. In desperate cases, they also 
 collect the river and lake muscles, which are eaten, 
 after having be§§ previously boiled. These are con- 
 sidered by the Indians the most insipid food which 
 they are ever driven by necessity to make use of. 
 There isa species of lichen, in some parts of the coun- 
 try, which is also sometimes eaten, itiscalledwc/acby 
 the Indians, and Tripe dc Roche by the French, and 
 is eaten, after being boiled down to the consistence 
 of a mucilage. They are the only tribes of American 
 Indians who live without salt, their country arlord- 
 i.ig no brine-springs, and being either unable to buy 
 from the traders, or wanting the opportunity. Such is 
 the miserable life which these people live, owing to 
 the dreariness of the climate, the want of agriculture, 
 and their own improvidence. 
 
 The custom of painting their bodies is character- 
 istic of all savage tribes. The native Britons former- 
 ly practised it. Those of the island of St. Salvador, 
 when Columbus first landed in the new world, were 
 found to paint grotesque figures and ornaments upon 
 their bodies. The native Brazilians, — the inhabi- 
 tants of .New-Holland, and Van Dieman's Land, and 
 all the tribes of North America, are more or less in 
 the practice of employing paint upon their faces. an<J
 
 231 
 
 tfther parts of their bodies, either with a view 6£ 
 rendering themselves more attractive to their friends, 
 or more terrible to their enemies. The northern 
 tribes use it upon all occasions. The substances 
 employed are ochres, clays, native oxyds of iron, 
 bole, and some other minerals, the production o£ 
 their country. The Sioux procure a tine green co- 
 loured clay, on the banks of the St. Peters, which 
 is highly esteemed. They have also a white and ted 
 clay, and a fine red oxide of iron, which are much 
 employed, and by their admixture, they are ena- 
 bled to paint themselves of almost any colour. 
 Red is the colour with which they decorate them- 
 selves on goin<x to war, and for this purpose vermi- 
 lion is sold them by the traders at the rate of eight 
 dollars per pound. Black, is used when they mourn 
 the loss of relatives, and for this purpose lampblack, 
 or soot, mixed with bears oil, is employed. 
 
 Of the state of female society among the northern 
 Indians, I shall say little, because on a review of it, I 
 find very little to admire, either in their collective 
 morality, or personal endowments. The savage 
 state is universally found to display itself in the most 
 striking degree in the situation, dress, personal ac- 
 complishments, and employments of females, and 
 these evidences may be looked upon as unerring in- 
 dexes to the degree of civilization, — to the mental 
 powers, and to the moral refinements of the other sex. 
 Doomed to drudgery and hardship from infancy, — 
 without the elegance of dress,— without either mental 
 resources, or personal beauty, — what can be said in 
 favour of the Indian women ! The custom of bind- 
 ing the feet of female infants in such a manner as to 
 make the toes point inwards, gives them in after life
 
 232 
 
 a very awkward appearance in walking ; and in re- 
 gard to the absence of female beauty, I am notable, 
 from my own observations, to make a single excep- 
 tion. 
 
 That exceptions exist, however, among some of 
 the northern tribes, we have the authority of M'Ken* 
 zie, for asserting. " Of all the nations,'' he remarks, 
 " which I have seen on this continent, the Knistenaux 
 women are the most comely. Their figure is gene- 
 rally well proportioned, and the regularity of their 
 features would he acknowledged by the more civi- 
 lized people of Europe. Their complexion has less 
 of that dark tinge, which is common to those sava- 
 ges who have less cleanly habits. 
 
 "It does not appear, however," he continues, "that 
 chastity is considered by them as a virtue; or that 
 fidelity is believed to be essential to the happiness 
 of wedded life. Though it sometimes happens, that 
 Hie infidelity of a wife is punished by the husband, 
 with the loss of her hair, nose, and perhaps life ; such 
 severity proceeds from its having been practised 
 without his permission : for a temporary interchange 
 of wives is not uncommon ; and the offer of their 
 persons, is considered as a necessary part of the 
 hospitality due to strangers. 
 
 " When a man looses his wife, it is considered as 
 a duty to marry her sister, if she has one; or he 
 may, if he pleases, have them both at the same 
 time."* 
 
 We here first observed a custom which is preva- 
 lent among the northern bands, of inclosing their 
 dead in coffins bound around with bark, and expos- 
 
 * M'Kenzie's Voyages to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans, p. 
 66.
 
 233 
 
 ing them on scaffolds ten or fifteen feet in the air. 
 This custom is said to have been borrowed by them 
 from the Sioux, who have practised it from the ear- 
 liest times. It is not now universal among the Chip- 
 peways, and they frequently bury their dead in the 
 European manner. In this case, however, a roof is 
 built over the grave, which is closed all around, ex- 
 cept at the head, where a hole is cut through the 
 bark large enough to put in a w r ooden dish, with 
 meats for the use of the dead. If a warrior dies, his 
 war club and other weapons and ornaments, are bu- 
 ried with him, as it is supposed, he will require them 
 in another world. If it is a woman that dies, a pad- 
 dle and carrying strap are buried with her, that 
 she may perform the same drudgery in a future 
 state she is required to do in this. This certainly 
 implies some notion of immortality, but they do not 
 appear to have any distinct conceptions of the bo- 
 dy and soul. It is difficult indeed to reduce their 
 opinions to any settled points. It is only certain that 
 they expect to live hereafter in a country far more 
 beautiful and delightful than the present, — where 
 there will be perpetual spring, — where game will 
 be plenty,— and where all the implements they have 
 made use of in this life, will be required as the 
 means of ensuring them a support. This idea has 
 been seized upon, in one of the most happy moments 
 of the poet of Twickenham. 
 
 *'• Lo, the poor Indian, whose untutored mind 
 " Sees God in clouds, or hears him in the wind j 
 (< His soul proud science never taught to stray 
 li Far as the solar walk, or milky way ; 
 " Yet simple nature to his hope has giv'n, 
 " Behind the cloud-topt hill, an humbler heav'n j 
 30
 
 234 
 
 u Some safer world in depth of woods embraced, 
 
 " Some happier island in the watery waste, 
 
 " Where slaves once more their native land behold, 
 
 " No fiends torment, — no Christians thirst for gold. 
 
 (i To be, — contents his natural desire, 
 
 " He asks no angel's wing, no seraph's fire ; 
 
 " But thinks, admitted to that r-qual sky, 
 
 ,f His faithful dog shall bear him company." Pope, 
 
 LIV. Day. — (July 1 6th.) — A council was held this 
 morning with the Sandy-Lake Indians, at their own 
 solicitation, and several speeches presented to Gov. 
 Cass, as the representative of the president of the 
 United States, who is addressed by the title of 
 " Great Father." These speeches, as they have 
 been interpreted to us, do not possess the charac- 
 teristic eloquence of Indian oratory, although appa- 
 rently delivered by the Indians in a very impassion- 
 ed and animated manner. But it appears, at least 
 in these instances, that they do not " suit the ac- 
 tion to the word and the word to the action," as 
 what we have supposed to be the most impassion- 
 ed eloquence when heard in the Indian tongue, 
 has turned out, when translated, to be a tissue of 
 common place ideas, without passion, eloquence, or 
 figures. As one of the best specimens of the speech- 
 es which have generally been addressed to the Gov- 
 ernor, during our progress through this region, the 
 following is presented. 
 
 " Father, — We are glad you have come among 
 us, to see how we live, and what kind of a country 
 we inhabit, and to tell these things to our Great Fa- 
 ther, the President. 
 
 "Father, you see us here, — we are poor, — we 
 want every thing, — we have neither knives or blan-
 
 235 
 
 kets, — guns or powder, — lead or cloth, — kettles or 
 tomahawks, — tobacco or whiskey. — We hope you 
 will give us these things. 
 
 " Father, we are glad that the President has thought 
 proper to send you among us, — we are glad to see 
 his flag wave upon this lake, — we are his children, 
 — he is our Father, — we smoke the same pipe, — we 
 take hold of the same tomahawk, — we are insepa- 
 rable friends. It shall never be said that the Chip- 
 peways are ungrateful. Father, depend upon this, 
 and take this pipe of peace as a pledge of our sin- 
 cerity. 
 
 " Father, we are of the race of strong men, — of 
 good warriors, and good hunters, but we cannot al- 
 ways kill game, or catch fish. — We can live a great 
 while upon a little, but we cannot live upon nothing. 
 
 " Father, our wild rice is all eaten up, — the buffa- 
 loes live in the land of our enemies, the Sioux, — we 
 are hungry, and naked, — we are dry and needy. — 
 We hope you will relieve us. 
 
 " Father, the President of the United States is a 
 very great man, even like a lofty pine upon the 
 mountain's top. — You are also a- great man, — and 
 the Americans are a great people. Can it be pos- 
 sible they will allow us to suffer !" 
 
 Governor Cass proposed to negociate a peace be- 
 tween them and the Sioux. They readily assented, 
 and are to send some of their old men as embassa- 
 dors to accompany us to the Falls ot St. Anthony* 
 on our return from the sources of the Mississippi. 
 
 The following tables present a view of the state 
 ©f the weather, — the stationary distances, — and the 
 elevation of the country between the Fond du Lac 
 and Sandy Lake.
 
 236 
 
 KQUR 1, 
 
 
 M 
 
 m 
 
 EL 
 
 )R< 
 
 OL 
 
 OC 
 
 *rIC 
 
 ^2 
 
 , OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 
 Atmospheric Temperature. 
 
 6 
 
 ja 
 
 i 
 
 64 
 
 ,.. 
 
 A. M. | P. M. 
 
 WINDS 
 
 WEATHER. 
 
 61 71 8|12| i| 5| 6\ 7\ 8| 9 
 
 July 6th 
 
 68 
 
 
 78 
 
 
 
 
 54 
 
 
 
 NE. 
 
 Clear. 1 
 
 7th 
 
 
 
 66 
 
 71 
 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 
 
 67 
 
 NE. 
 
 TTne- 
 
 Rain. 
 
 8th 
 
 
 
 63 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 
 69 
 
 Clear & warm. 
 
 9th 57 
 
 
 
 75 
 
 
 
 
 53 
 
 
 6l 
 
 ENE. 
 
 Clear. 
 Rainy. 
 
 10th 
 
 53 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 
 51 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 58 
 56 
 58 
 
 NE. 
 
 11th 
 
 51 
 
 
 — 
 
 6b 
 
 
 — 
 
 49 
 50 
 
 VVNW 
 
 Cloudy & cool. 
 
 12th 
 
 53 
 
 
 NW. 
 
 Showery&cloud. 
 
 13th 
 
 
 42 
 
 
 
 71 
 
 58 
 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 58 
 
 NW. 
 
 Clear. 
 
 14th 
 
 
 67 
 
 
 80 
 
 
 — 
 
 64 
 
 
 70 
 
 NW. 
 
 Clear. 
 
 15th 
 
 
 50 
 
 64 
 
 
 7* 
 71 
 
 53 
 
 
 65 
 
 NW. 
 
 Cloudy with rain. 
 
 16th 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 57 
 
 NNW- 
 
 Fair. 
 
 11(683 
 
 67° mean daily temp. 
 
 STATIONARY DISTANCES. 
 
 Miles. Tot. Miles. 
 
 From the South -West Company's House, to the foot 
 
 of the Grand Portage, 2 
 
 To the Galley, '- - - - 2 4 
 
 To the head of Grand Portage, - - 7 11 
 
 To the foot of the Portage aux Coteaux, - 6 17 
 
 To the head of do. - • H 18} 
 To the mouth of Savannah river, as detailed in 
 
 DayLII. - - - - 56i 75 
 To the commencement of the Savannah Portage, 24 99 
 Length of Savannah Portage, 6 105 
 To Sandy Lake, at the discharge of the West Sa- 
 vannah, 18 123 
 South- West Company's Fort, on Sandy Lake, 3 126
 
 Feet. 
 
 Total Feet, 
 
 4 
 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 220 
 
 232 
 
 237 
 
 ELEVATION OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 Estimated fall of the St. Louis River, from the head 
 of Lake Superior to the South- West Company '3 
 House, 24 miles, at 2 inches per mile, 
 
 Thence to the Galley, 4 miles, 
 
 To the head of the Grand Portage, 
 
 To the foot of the Portage aux Coteaux, 2 leagues, 
 
 at 3 feet per mile, - - - - 18 250 
 
 To the head of the Portage aux Coteaux, (falls not 
 included,) - 
 
 Coteaux Falls, - 
 
 Thence to the mouth of the Savannah River, as es- 
 timated by Dr. Wolcott, see Day LII. 
 
 Thence to the Savannah Portage, 
 
 Thence to the head of the West Savannah, 
 
 Descent of the West Savannah. 
 From the place of embarkation to the first Rapid, 4 
 
 miles, at 6 inches per mile, 
 Descent of the first Rapid, 
 To the head of the second Rapid, 8 miles, at 6 inches 
 
 per mile, - 
 
 Descent of the second Rapid, 
 Thence to the level of Sandy Lake, 
 
 Elevation of Sandy Lake above Lake Superior? Feet 527 
 
 28 
 
 278 
 
 14 
 
 292 
 
 212.6 
 
 504.6 
 
 18 
 
 522.6 
 
 30 
 
 550.6 
 
 2 
 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 is 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 19 
 
 4.6 
 
 23.6
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 JOURNEY, 
 
 FROM SANDY LAKE TO THE SOURCES OF THE MIS- 
 SISSIPPI. 
 
 ,Ki 
 
 LV. Day.— {July llth.) 
 
 W E left the fort at half past nine in the morning, 
 in three canoes, manned by nineteen voyageurs and 
 Indians, and provisioned for twelve days. Our par- 
 ty now, exclusive of the w r orking men, consisted of 
 Governor Cass, Dr. Wolcott, Capt. Douglass, Lieut. 
 Mackay, Maj. Forsyth, and myself. The balance 
 of the expedition, — men, baggage, and canoes, was 
 left at the Company's establishment. A mile from 
 the fort we entered the mouth of Sandy Lake River, 
 which discharges into the Mississippi, two miles 
 below. Its course is winding, and near its junction 
 with the Mississippi, it has a rapid where the water 
 descends three feet in sixty yards. On entering the 
 Mississippi, we found a strong current, — reddish wa- 
 ter, a little turbid, — some snags and drifts, — and 
 alluvial hanks, elevated from four to eight feet, bear- 
 ing a forest of elm, maple, oak, poplar, pine, and ash. 
 The elm predominates ; maple and oak are com- 
 mon, — pine, ash, and poplar, sparing. The river 
 has a width of sixty yard?, and the shores are skirl-
 
 239 
 
 ed with bull rushes, foille avoine, and tufts of wil- 
 low. In the course of the day we passed the fol- 
 lowing rapids, numbered and estimated from the 
 mouth of Sandy Lake River. 
 
 1st Rapid, 3 miles, descent 2 feet in 50 yards 
 2d - 4 - 5 200 - 
 
 3d - 3 - 6 100 - 
 
 4th - 1 - 1 foot in 50 - 
 
 5th - 5 - 7 feet in 100 - 
 
 6th • 11 - 8 200 - 
 
 We encamped twenty miles above the sixth rapid 
 at eight o'clock in the evening, having been eleven 
 hours in our canoes, and progressed forty-six miles. 
 The weather has been variable. — At day light there 
 was a violent wind, attended with rain, which ceas- 
 ed at nine o'clock. — Cloudy all day, — sun shone out 
 hot at one o'clock, — then a shower ; cloudy and 
 cool in the evening. The river has received no 
 tributary streams ; no islands have been encounter- 
 ed, nor have any hills been seen, but the country is 
 low, and swampy at a short distance from the river. 
 Detached stones of hornblende, sand stone, and 
 granite, appear upon the rapids. The musquitoes 
 have been very troublesome. 
 
 LVI. Day. — {July 18th.) — There was a shower of 
 rain during the night, — it ceased at four o'clock. 
 We embarked at five, — the weather remained clou- 
 dy and misty. On ascending one mile, we passed 
 Swan "River, which enters, by a mouth of twenty 
 yards wide, on the right shore. Loose rocks ap- 
 pear in the water at its mouth. This stream is sixty 
 miles long, and originates in Swan Lake, in which 
 trout are caught. It is rapid for a distance, but ex- 
 pands to a great width towards its source, where it
 
 210 
 
 has a still current, and abounds in wild rice. Thir- 
 teen leagues above we passed Rapid No. 7, where 
 the water falls three feet in a hundred and fifty 
 yards. Trout river enters six miles higher, on 
 the right side. It is about thirty feet wide at its 
 mouth, but deep, and widens above. It origin- 
 ates in Trout Lake, and is connected with Swan 
 River near its source. Prairie River is four 
 miles above, and enters on the same side. It is 
 ninety feet wide at its mouth, — has a considerable 
 rapid three miles above, but may be ascended with 
 canoes, through an open prairie country, ninety miles. 
 It communicates, by short portages, with one of the 
 western tributaries of St. Louis river, and with 
 Swan river. We encamped on a sand bank, five 
 hundred yards above its entrance, having progress- 
 ed fifty-one miles. The current of the Mississippi 
 river, this day, has been strong, and a number of 
 snags and drifts have been encountered. The velo- 
 city is computed, by Captain Douglass, at 2f miles 
 per hour. The timber has been much the same as 
 yesterday, — elm and maple predominate. In the 
 afternoon we ? passed several ridges of pine land 
 elevated twenty or thirty feet above the water, — and 
 a few miles below Trout river, came through a fo- 
 rest of burnt dead pines, which continue about 
 three miles on either shore. The general course of 
 the river is west of north ; it is very serpentine, and 
 the curves short, seldom exceeding a mile, — the 
 width of the river has been less than yesterday, and 
 may be computed to average forty yards. Tufts of 
 willow, grass, and wild rice, skirt the water's edge. 
 No islands or rock strata arc seen, — detached stones,
 
 241 
 
 such as were yesterday noticed, appear in the bed 
 of the stream at the rapids, and occasionally along 
 the shore. The banks are the most recent kind of 
 alluvion, in which very minute shining particles of 
 mica are seen. The common fresh water muscle is 
 very abundant along the shore, and some of an ex- 
 traordinary size. Ducks and plover have been con- 
 tinually in sight. — The robin, (turdus migrator his) 
 brown thrush, blackbird, crow, and water loon, have 
 also been noticed. It is not a region favourable to 
 serpents, and the Indians say that the common garter, 
 (coluber wstivus,) and water snake, are the only spe- 
 cies known. The weather continued cloudy ami 
 cool during the day, and very chilly at night. ' The 
 musquitoes have been less annoying in consequence. 
 
 LVII. Day. — (July \9ih.) — The night was so cold 
 that water froze upon the bottoms of our canoes, and 
 they were encrusted with a scale of ice of the thick- 
 ness of a knife blade. The thermometer stood at 
 36° at sun-rise. There was a very heavy dew dur- 
 ing the night, and a dense fog in the morning. The 
 forenoon remained cloudy and chilly. Six miles 
 above our encampment we passed the eighth Rapid, 
 where the water falls two feet in a hundred yards ; 
 and half a mile above, the ninth Rapid, which con- 
 sists of a series of small rapids, extending a thou- 
 sand yards, in the course of which, there is an aggre- 
 gate fall of sixteen feet. Four miles above the ter- 
 mination of the ninth Rapid, we landed at the foot 
 of the falls of Peckagama, where the river has a de- 
 scent of twenty feet in three hundred yards. This 
 forms an interruption to the navigation, and there is 
 
 31
 
 212 
 
 a portage around the talis, of two hundred and seven- 
 ty-five yards. The Mississippi, at this fall is com- 
 pressed to a eighty feet in width, and precipitated 
 over a rugged bed of sand stone, highly inclined to- 
 wards the northeast. There is no perpendicular 
 pitch, but the river rushes down a rocky channel, 
 inclined at an angle of from 35° to 40°. The view- 
 is wild and picturesque. Immediately at the head 
 of the falls is the first island noticed in the river. It 
 is small, rocky, — covered with spruce and cedar, — 
 and divides the channel nearly in its centre, at the 
 point where the fall commences. In crossing this 
 portage, I observed the small bush-whortleberry, 
 (yaccinium dumosum.) A portion of the berries 
 were already ripe. After passing the falls of Pec- 
 kagama, a striking change is witnessed in the cha- 
 racter of the country. We appear to have attain- 
 ed the summit level of waters. The forests of maple, 
 elm, and oak, cease, and the river winds in the most 
 devious manner through an extensive prairie, cover- 
 ed with tall grass, wild rice, and rushes. This prai- 
 rie has a mean width of three miles, and is bounded 
 by ridges of dry sand, of moderate elevation, and 
 covered sparingly with yellow pine. Sometimes the 
 river washes close against one of these sand ridges. 
 — their* turns into the centre of the prairie, or cross- 
 es to the opposite side ; but nothing can equal its 
 sinuosities, — we move towards all points of the com- 
 pass in the same hour, — and we appear to be wind- 
 ing about in an endless labyrinth, without approach- 
 ing nearer to the object in view. In one instance, 
 we rowed nine miles by the windings of the stream, 
 and advanced but one mile in a direct line. While 
 sitting in our canoes, in the centre of this prairie.
 
 243 
 
 the rank growth of grass, rushes, kc. completely hid 
 the adjoining forests from view, and it appeared as 
 if we were lost in a boundless field of waving grass. 
 Nothing was to be seen but the sky above, and the 
 lofty fields of nodding grass, oats, and reeds upon 
 each side of the stream. The monotony of the view 
 can only be conceived by those who have been 
 at sea, — and we turned away with the same kind of 
 interest to admire the birds, and water fowl, who 
 have chosen this region, for their abode. The cur- 
 rent of the river is gentle, its velocity not exceed- 
 ing one mile per hour: — its width is about eighty 
 feet. It receives a tributary from the left at the dis- 
 tance of forty miles above the falls of Peckagama. 
 called Vermilion river, and three miles above, an- 
 other called Chevreuil, or Deer river, from the right, 
 bank. We encamped upon the prairie, six miley 
 above Chevreuil river, at a late hour, having ascend- 
 ed sixty miles. Ducks have been abundant through- 
 out the day. We saw no plover in the prairies, al- 
 though they were common below. The black- 
 bird has been constantly in sight, and the small 
 white gull, such as is common upon the lakes, has 
 been so abundant as to annoy our progress, parti- 
 cularly by its scream, which is harsh and unplea- 
 sant. These birds had their nests all along the 
 banks, and were constantly alarmed for their youno\ 
 The loon, the wild goose, and the heron, have also 
 been observed. The weather has been cloudy, 
 with occasional gleams of sunshine, and chilly to- 
 wards evening. At the place of our encampment 
 we found a very delicious species of red raspberry, 
 growing upon a small bush of the size of a straw- 
 berry vine. Here also, as night approached, we
 
 244 
 
 first noticed the fire fly, which has not before been 
 seen upon the Mississippi. 
 
 LVflf. Day.— (Jiffy 20th.')— We had rain during 
 the night, — the morning was cloudy, with a heavy 
 fog. We embarked at half past five; our route lay 
 through a prairie country, similar in every respect 
 to that yesterday passed. At the distance of ten 
 miles we passed the mouth of Leech river, entering 
 on the left. This is the main southwestern fork of 
 the Mississippi, and is ascended about fifty miles, to 
 its source, in Leech lake, where the American fur 
 company have an establishment. This lake is twelve 
 miles across, and was considered, by Lieut. Pike, as 
 the main source of the Mississippi. " The fort," he 
 observes, " is situated on the west side of the lake, 
 in 47° 16' 13" north latitude. It is built near the 
 shore, on the declivity of a rising ground, having an 
 inclosed garden, of about five acres, on the north- 
 west. It is a square stockade, of one hundred and 
 fifty feet, — the pickets being sixteen feet in length, 
 three feet under ground, and thirteen feet above, 
 - — and are bound together by horizontal bars, each 
 ten feet long. Pickets often feet are likewise drove 
 into the ground, on the inside of the work, opposite 
 *iiie apertures between the large pickets. At the 
 west and east angles are bastions pierced for fire 
 arms."* The Leech lake band of Chippeways 
 are located in the vicinity of the fort. It consists 
 of one thousand one hundred and twenty souls, one 
 hundred and fifty of whom are warriors. The prin- 
 cipal chiefs are Eskibu gecko grc, or, Flat-Mouth. 
 
 •' J'ike's Exoedilions.
 
 245 
 
 Obiguctte, or the chief of the Land, and Oole, or the 
 Burnt. They hunt the beaver, marten, muskrat, 
 otter, and black fox. The moose is sometimes kill- 
 ed. They subsist chiefly upon the flesh of these an- 
 imals, and obtain European and American fabrics 
 in exchange for their furs. Their neighbours are 
 the Assenniboins, (a revolted band of the Sioux,) 
 on the west, — the Upper Red Cedar, and Red Lake 
 tribes of Chippeways, on the north, — and the Sandy 
 Lake Indians on the east and south. Leech-lake 
 river runs its whole length through a savannah, — is 
 very serpentine, — and in many places not more than 
 ten or fifteen yards wide, although it has a depth of 
 twelve or fifteen feet. The current of the Missis- 
 sippi river, above its junction, is perceptibly strong- 
 er, and the water quite clear. The bends are also 
 more abrupt, and the width of the stream a little 
 more than half what it maintains below. It may be 
 estimated above the Leech-lake branch, at sixty 
 feet, but still preserves a good depth. From Sandy 
 lake river, to the falls of Peckagama, the mean fall 
 of the river may be estimated at six inches per mile, 
 exclusive of the rapids ; — from thence to the con- 
 fluence of the Leech-lake branch, at tw o inches per 
 mile, and thence to Lake Winnipec, at four inches 
 per mile. 
 
 At the distance of thirty-five miles above Leech 
 river, we entered Little lake Winnipec, which is 
 about five miles long, and three in width. The wa- 
 ter is clear. Its shores are low and marshy, covered 
 with rushes, spear grass, and wild rice, which in 
 some places extend quite across the lake, giving it 
 rather the appearance of a marsh. On passing 
 through this, the river again assumes the size and
 
 246 
 
 genera! appearance it had below, for a distance of 
 ten miles, when it opens into a spacious bay, which 
 is the northeastern extremity of the Upper lake 
 Winnipec. We proceeded through this, and en- 
 camped on the north shore of the lake, at the mouth 
 of Turtle Portage river. Lake Winnipec is about 
 fourteen miles loco - by nine in width, and its waters 
 are deep and transparent. Its shores are generally 
 low and covered, at the water's edge, with rushes, 
 and wild oats. Upon its banks we find oak, maple, 
 poplar, birch, and white pine. It receives four tribu- 
 taries, Turtle Portage river, Round Lake river, 
 Thornberry river, and an inlet from the southwest, 
 which being somewhat larger than the others, pre- 
 serves the name of the Mississippi. Turtle Portage 
 river, communicates through several intermediate 
 little lakes, with the Rainy lakes, and the Lake of 
 the Woods. The journey to the Upper Rainy Lake 
 is performed in eight days, and from thence to the 
 Lake of the Woods in ten days. 
 
 Round Lake river is the outlet of a lake which is 
 connected by its higher tributaries, with the waters 
 of Turtle Portage river, and the Rainy Lakes. 
 Thornberry river, or La riviere des Epinettes, is 
 smaller than the two former, and is not ascended 
 any considerable distance in canoes. Its origin 
 is also in lakes. The Mississippi branch is naviga- 
 ble fifty miles to its source in the Upper Red Cedar 
 Lake. 
 
 On passing through Little Lake Winnipec, we met 
 a couple of Indian women in a canoe, being the first 
 natives seen on the river, of whom our interpreter 
 made enquiry as to the course of the river, and the 
 
 i u re of the country above. They manifested n©
 
 247 
 
 afarna on our approach, and communicated what 
 they knew frankly and without reserve. They had 
 come down the river for the purpose of observing 
 the state of the wild rice, and at what places it 
 could be most advantageously gathered. None, 
 however, was yet sufficiently ripe to admit of har- 
 vesting, but this precaution evinces a degree of 
 care and foresight, which is not always found 
 among savages. 
 
 In the course of this day we have observed, ei- 
 ther upon the river, or its banks, the wild goose, 
 duck, turkey-buzzard, raven, eagle, king-fisher, (al- 
 cedo alcyon.) and blackbird. 
 
 LIX. Day. {July list.) — We continued our journey 
 at half past four o'clock in the morning. Passing 
 around the northern shore of Lake Winnioec, we 
 observed at a distance a rocky island of such snowy 
 whiteness, as to give it an appearance of singular 
 fcovelty, and to baffle every conjecture as to the sub- 
 stance of which it was composed. On reaching its^ 
 shores, we found it to be a confused pile of water- 
 worn fragments of granite, hornblende, quartz, &c. 
 covered with a thick limey incrustation, produced 
 from the excrescence of the myriads of water-fowl 
 who resort to it. These birds were driven away in 
 flocks by our approach, and we particularly noticed 
 the wild goose, black duck, pelican, cormorant, 
 brant, and plover. On landing a dead pelican (pc- 
 lecanus onocratolus,) was found upon the rocks, ha- 
 ving apparently been killed that morning, either in 
 a strife among its own species or through disease. — 
 No marks of violence, or external disease could 
 however be observed. This is one of the largest of
 
 24a 
 
 web-footed water fowl, often exceeding in size the 
 swan. It has been known to weigh twenty-five 
 pounds, and to measure eleven feet between the tips 
 of the wings. Its most remarkable character, and 
 one which distinguishes it from all other birds, is a 
 large membranaceous pouch extending from the 
 mandible nine or ten inches down the front of the 
 neck. This serves as a repository for its food, and 
 when empty, the bird has the power of wrinkling it up. 
 It has the colour and consistence of a wetted bladder 
 and is naked to appearance, but on examination is 
 found to be partially covered with a very fine downy 
 substance. These pouches are fashioned by the In- 
 dians into caps for summer wear, being very light and 
 airy. Notwithstanding the great bulk of this bird, 
 it is said to be very expert upon the wing, and soars 
 to a great height, which is in some measure attribu- 
 table to the extreme lightness of its bones, which 
 do not altogether exceed a pound and a half in 
 weight. 
 
 Disregarding artificial arrangements, all w r ater 
 fowl may be considered under these great natural di- 
 visions, namely, those of the penguin kind, with short 
 blunt wings, round bills, and legs hid in the abdo- 
 men, which dive in quest of food; — those of the 
 gull kind, with long slender legs, sharp pointed 
 wings, and round bills, which fly along the water to 
 seize their prey ; — and those of the goose kind, with 
 broad flat bills, and heavy-quilled wings, which gen- 
 erally lead harmless lives, and subsist mostly upon 
 vegetables and insects. The pelican, from its sin- 
 gular conformation, will not, strictly speaking, fall 
 under any of the*e denominations, although it seems 
 more nearly allied to the family of the goose. Its
 
 249 
 
 feathers are white all over the body, and its wings 5 
 which are strong and heavy, clothed with a thick 
 plumage of quills and downy feathers. Its legs are 
 red, and its bill of a greenish tinge at the base, but 
 changing to a reddish blue towards its extremity, 
 which is slightly hooked downward. The eyes 
 are small, compared with the magnitude of the head, 
 and altogether the bird has a heavy and demure 
 look. Like the heron and the cormorant, the peli- 
 can is an inordinate eater, and is represented to be 
 indolent and stupid to the last degree. 
 
 " This species," says Pennant, "extends over most 
 parts of the torrid zone, and many parts of the warm- 
 er temperate. It is found in Europe, on the lower 
 parts of the Danube, and in all parts of the Medi- 
 terranean Sea, almost all Africa, and Asia Minor. 
 Are seen in incredible numbers about the Black and 
 Caspian Seas ; and come iar up the rivers, and into 
 the inland lakes of the Asiatic Russian empire ; but 
 grow scarcer eastward, and are seldom met with so 
 far north as the Siberian lakes ; yet are not unknown 
 about that of Baikal. They are common on the 
 coast of New Holland, where they grow to an enor- 
 mous size. They feed upon fish, which they take 
 sometimes by plunging from a great height in the 
 air, and seizing, like the gannet : at other times they 
 fish in concert, swimming in flocks, and forming a 
 large circle in the great rivers, which they gradually 
 contract, beating the water with their wings and feet t 
 in order to drive the fish into the centre ; which 
 when they approach, they open their vast mouths, 
 and fill their pouches with their prey, then incline 
 their bills to empty the bag of the water; after 
 which they swim to shore and eat their booty in qui- 
 
 32
 
 Jjij 
 
 ft. As the pouch is capable of holding a dozers 
 quarts of water, a guess may be made of the quan- 
 tity of fishes it can contain. The French very pro- 
 perly call them Grande Gosicrs, or Great Throats, It 
 is said that when they make their nests in the dry 
 deserts, they carry the water to their young in their 
 vast pouches, and that the lions and beasts of prey 
 come there to quench their thirst, sparing the young, 
 the cause of this salutary provision. Possibly, on 
 this account, the Egyptians style this bird the camel 
 of the river : — the Persians tacub, or water-carrier.*'" 
 The popular fable that this bird feeds its young 
 with blood from its own breast, owes its origin to the 
 circumstance of its permitting them to eat from its 
 pouch the food which it collects for that purpose. 
 
 On quitting Pelican Island, we steered northwest 
 across the bay, and entered the mouth of the Mis- 
 sissippi inlet, which we pursued up fifty miles to its 
 origin, in Upper Red Cedar or Cassinaf Lake, where 
 we arrived at three o'clock in the afternoon. This 
 may be considered the true source of the Mississip- 
 pi River, although the greatest body of water is said 
 to come down the Leech Lake Branch. The river 
 between Lake W'innjqpee and Cassina Lake winds 
 through a prairie-valley, a mile in width, which is 
 bounded by ridges of sandy land covered with yel- 
 low and white pine. The river pursues the same 
 devious course, and its banks are overgrown with 
 wild oats, rushes, and grass. Cassina Lake is about 
 
 * Arctic Zoulogy. 
 
 f I have proposed to the Topographical Engineer of the Expe- 
 dition, to designate the hike by this term, in order to prevent its 
 being confounded with Red Cedar Lake, which is situated abo\:; 
 250 miles below. It ii in allusion to Governor Cass.
 
 251 
 
 eight miles long by six in width, and presents 
 to the eye a beautiful sheet of transparent water. 
 (See the perspective view upon the Map?) Its banks 
 are overshadowed by elm, maple, and pine. Along 
 its margin there are some fields of Indian rice, rushes 
 and reeds : in other places, there is an open beach 
 of clean pebbles, driven up by the waves, but no 
 rock strata appear. The pike carp, trout, and cat- 
 fish are caught in its waters. It has an island towards 
 its western extremity covered with trees, from which 
 it derives its local name, but no red cedar is found 
 around its shores. This lake is supplied by two in- 
 lets called Turtle and La Beesh rivers, both tribu- 
 tary on the northwestern margin. The former ori- 
 ginates in Turtle Lake, near the banks of the Rainy 
 Lakes, and after pursuing a southerly course for 
 forty miles, in which distance it opens into several 
 small lakes, enters Red Cedar or Cassina Lake by a 
 mouth of fifteen yards in width. This branch is as- 
 cended with canoes passing to the Lake of the 
 Woods, and has three short portages. 
 
 La Beesh river is the outlet of Lake La Beesh, 
 which lies six days journey, with a canoe, west- 
 northwest of Cassina Lake, and has no inlets. A 
 short distance from its shores, the waters run north 
 into the Red River of Hudson's Bay. Its outlet has 
 several rapids, and expands into a number of inter- 
 mediate lakes, the largest of which are lakes Traver- 
 se, Oganga, and Kiskahoo. It also receives several 
 tributaries, all of which originate in small lakes. It is 
 only capable of being ascended in canoes, during 
 the spring and autumnal freshets, and then there are 
 Several portages. This branch is considered the
 
 252 
 
 largest inlet, and preserves, in Ihe language of the 
 voyageurs, the name of the Mississippi. 
 
 On the north shore of this lake, on a cleared emi- 
 nence, is a village of Chippeways, of ten lodges and 
 sixty souls, under Wiscoup, or the Sweet. They receiv- 
 ed the party with every mark of friendship, and pre- 
 sented us an abundance of the most delicious red rasp- 
 berries, and a quantity of pemican,or pounded moose 
 meat. Here we also found two Frenchmen, who have 
 been in the employ of the American Fur Company, 
 and located themselves at this spot, for the purpose 
 of trading with the Indians. In the person of one of 
 
 these, Mons. D , we witnessed one of the most 
 
 striking objects of human misery. It appears, that in 
 the prosecution of the fur trade, he had, according to 
 the custom of the country, taken an Indian wife, and 
 spent several winters in that inclement region. Dur- 
 ing the last, he was, however, caught in a severe 
 snow storm, and froze both his feet in such a man- 
 ner, that they dropped off shortly after his return to 
 his wigwam. In this helpless situation, he was sup- 
 ported some time by his w ife, who caught fish in the 
 lake ; but she at last deserted him ; and on our ar- 
 rival, he had subsisted several months upon the pig 
 weed which grew around his cabin. As he was un- 
 able to walk, this had been thrown in by his country- 
 man, or by the Indians, and appeared to have been the 
 extent of their benevolence. We found him seated 
 in a small bark cabin, on a rush mat, with the 
 stumps of his legs tied up with deerskins, and wholly 
 destitute of covering. He was poor and emaciated 
 to the last degree — his beard was long — cheeks fal- 
 len in — eyes sunk, but darling a look of despair — and 
 every bone in his body visible through the skin. He
 
 253 
 
 could speak no English, but was continually uttering 
 curses in his mother tongue, upon his own existence, 
 and apparently, upon all that surrounded him. We 
 could only endure the painful sight for a moment, 
 and hastened from this abode of human wretched- 
 ness ; but before leaving the village, Governor Cass 
 sent him a present of Indian goods, groceries, and 
 ammunition, and engaged a person to convey him to 
 the American Fur Company's Fort at Sandy Lake, 
 where he could still receive ihe attention due to suf- 
 fering humanity. These donations were swelled by 
 every individual of the party, each one taking a 
 pleasure in being able to contribute something, with 
 a view either to clothe and lodge him with decency 
 and comfort, or to enable him to purchase provi- 
 sions, for his subsistence, from the Indians. 
 
 The laiitude of this lake as determined by Lieut. 
 Pike, in 1806, is 47° 42' 40." Owing to cloudy weather, 
 no opportunity of testing the correctness of this obser- 
 vation, was presented to us ; but Capt. Douglass had 
 an observation fifty eight miles below, and calculated 
 the latitude of that place to be 47° 38'. The distance 
 from Sandy Lake, by the windings of the river is 
 two hundred and seventy one miles, and from the 
 Fond du Lac, at the head of Lake Superior, 429. It is 
 but thirty miles by land south to Leech Lake, and is 
 walked in the winter season, when the swamps are 
 frozen over, in one day. It is about one hundred 
 miles west-northwest, to Red Lake, where there is a 
 band of Chippeways of one hundred and sixty war- 
 riors ; and a hundred and twenty miles northwest to 
 the Lake of the Woods, via Turtle Portage, and the 
 Rainy Lakes ; but in a direct line about half that 
 distance. Cassina Lake, the source of the Mis*
 
 2j4 
 
 sissippi, is situated seventeen degrees north of 
 the Balize on the Gulph of Mexico, and two thou- 
 sand nine hundred and seventy-eight miles, pursuing 
 the course of the river. Estimating the distance to 
 Lake La Beesli, its extreme northwestern inlet at six- 
 ty miles, which I conclude to be within bounds, we 
 have a result of three thousand and thirty-eight miles, 
 as the entire length of this wonderful river, which ex- 
 tends over the surface of the earth in a direct line, 
 more than half the distance from the iVrclic Circle 
 to the Equator. It is also deserving of remark, that 
 its sources lie in a region of almost continual winter, 
 while it enters the Ocean under the latitude of per- 
 petual verdure ; and at last, as if disdaining to ter- 
 minate its career at the usual point of embouchure 
 of other large rivers, has protruded its banks into the 
 Gulf of Mexico, more than a hundred miles beyond 
 any other part of the main. To have visited both the 
 sources and the mouth of this celebrated stream, 
 falls to the lot of tew, and I believe there is no person 
 living, beside myself, of whom the remark can now be 
 made. On the 10th of July, 1819, I passed out of the 
 mouth of the Mississippi in a brig bound for New- 
 York, after descending it in a steam-boat from St. 
 Louis, and little thinking I should soon revisit its wa- 
 ters; yet, on the 21st of July of the following year, 1 
 found myself seated in an Indian canoe, upon its 
 source. 
 
 In deciding upon the physical character of the 
 Mississippi, it may be advantageously considered 
 under four natural divisions, as indicated by the per- 
 manent differences in the colour of its waters, — tbc 
 geological character of its bed and banks, — its for- 
 
 • trees and other vegetable productions, — Us velo-
 
 253 
 
 city, — the difficulties it opposes to navigation, — and 
 other natural appearances and circumstances. 
 
 Originating in a region of lakes, upon the table 
 lands, which throw their waters north into Hudson's 
 Bay, — south into the Gulph of Mexico, — and east in- 
 to the Gulf of St. Lawrence — it pursues its course 
 to the falls of Peckagama, a distance of two hundred 
 and thirty miles, through a low prairie, covered with 
 wild rice, rushes, sword grass, and other aquatic 
 plants. During this distance, it is extremely devious 
 as to course and width, sometimes expanding into 
 small lakes, at others, narrowing into a channel of 
 about eighty feet. It is about sixty feet wide on its 
 exit from Red Cedar or Cassina Lake, with an ave- 
 rage depth of two feet ; but from the junction of the 
 Leech Lake fork, increases to a hundred feet in 
 width, with a corresponding increase of depth. Its 
 current, during this distance, is still and gentle ; and 
 its mean velocity may be estimated at a mile and a 
 half per hour, with a descent of three inches per 
 mile. This is the favourite resort of water-fowl, and 
 amphibious quadrupeds. 
 
 At the falls of Peckagama, the first rock stratum, 
 and the first wooded island, is seen. Here the 
 river has a fall of twenty feet ; and from this to the 
 falls of St. Anthony, a distance of six hundred and 
 eighty-five miles, exhibits its second characteristic 
 division. At the head of the falls of Peckagama, 
 the prairies entirely cease ; and below, a forest of 
 elm, maple, birch, oak, and ash, overshadows the 
 stream. The black walnut (juglans nigra) is first 
 seen below Sandy Lake river, and the sycamore be- 
 low the river De Corbeau. The river, in this dis- 
 tance, has innumerable well wooded islands, and re-
 
 2ob 
 
 ceives a number of tributaries, the largest of which 
 is the river De Corbeau, its great southwestern fork. 
 The Pine, Elk, Sac, and Crow rivers, also enter 
 on the west, and the St. Francis and Missisaw£aie- 
 gon, on the east. The course of the river, although 
 serpentine, is less so, than above the foils of Pecka- 
 gama, and its bends are not so short and abrupt. Its 
 mean width may be estimated at three hundred ^eet 
 until the junction of the De Corbeau, and below that 
 at two hundred and fifty yards. lis navigation is im- 
 peded, agreeably to a memorandum which I have 
 kept, by thirty-five rapids, nineteen ripples, and two 
 minor falls, called the Little and the Big Falls, in all of 
 which the river has an aggregate descent of two hun- 
 dred and twenty four feet in fourteen thousand six hun- 
 dred andforty yards, or about eight miles. The mean 
 fall of the current, exclusive of the rapids, may be 
 computed at six inches per mile, and its velocity at 
 three miles per hour. In the course of this distance 
 it receives several small turbid streams, and acquires 
 a brownish hue, but still preserves its transparency, 
 and is palatable drink-water. A few miles above 
 the river De Corbeau, on the east side, we observe 
 the first dry prairies, or natural meadows, and they 
 continue to the falls of St. Anthony. These prairies 
 are the great resort of the buffalo, elk, and deer, 
 and are the only part of the banks of the Mississippi 
 where the buffalo is now to be found. Granite rocks 
 appear at several of the rapids, in rolled pieces, and 
 in beds ; and in some places attain an elevation of 
 one or two hundred feet above the level of the water, 
 but the banks of the river are generally alluvial. 
 
 At the Falls of St. Anthony, the river has a per- 
 pendicular pitch of forty feet, and from this to its
 
 257 
 
 junction with the Missouri, a distance of eight hun- 
 dred and forty three miles, it is bounded by limestone 
 bluffs, which attain various elevations from one to 
 four hundred feet, and present a succession of the 
 most sublime and picturesque views. This forms the 
 third characteristic change of the Mississippi. The 
 river prairies cease, and the rocky bluffs commence 
 precisely at the falls of St. Anthony. Nine miles be- 
 low it receives the St. Peter's from the west, and is suc- 
 cessively swelled on that side by the Ocano, Iowa, 
 Turkey, Desmoines, and Salt rivers, and on the east 
 by the St. Croix, Chippeway, Black, Ousconsing, 
 Rock, and Illinois. One hundred miles below 
 the Falls of St. Anthony, the river expands into a 
 lake, called Pepin, which is twenty -four miles long 
 and four in width. It is, on issuing from this lake, 
 that the river first exhibits, in a striking manner, those 
 extensive and moving sand bars, innumerable islands 
 and channels, and drifts and snags, which continue to 
 characterize it to the ocean. Its bends from this point 
 onward are larger, and its course more direct; and 
 altltough its waters are adulterated by several dark 
 coloured and turbid streams, it may still be consi- 
 dered transparent. The principal impediments to 
 navigation in this distance are the Desmoine, and 
 Rock river rapids. The latter extends six miles, 
 and opposes an effectual barrier to steam-boat navi- 
 gation, although keel boats and barges of the largest 
 class, may ascend. This rapid is three hundred and 
 ninety miles above St. Louis. 
 
 The fourth change in the physical aspect of this 
 river is at the junction of the Missouri, and this is a 
 total and complete one, the character of the Mis- 
 sissippi being entirely lost in that of the Missouri, 
 
 33
 
 258 
 
 The latter is. in fact, much the largest stream of the 
 two, and carries its characteristic appearances to 
 the ocean. It should also have carried the name, 
 but its exploration took place too long after the 
 course of the Mississippi had been perpetuated in 
 the written geography of the country, to render an 
 alteration in this respect, either practicable or expe- 
 dient. The waters of the Mississippi at its conflu- 
 ence with the Missouri, are moderately clear, and 
 of a greenish hue. — The Missouri is turbid and opake, 
 of a greyish-white colour, and during its floods, 
 which happen twice a year, communicates, almost 
 instantaneously, to the combined stream its predo- 
 minating qualities, but towards the close of the sum- 
 mer season, when itisat its lowest stage of water, the 
 streams do not fully incorporate for twenty or thirty 
 miles, but preserve opposite sides of the river; and 
 I have observed this phenomenon at the town of 
 Herculaneum, which is forty-eight miles below the 
 junction. The water in this part of the river cannot 
 be drank until it has been set aside to allow the mud 
 to settle. The distance from the mouth of the Mis- 
 souri to the Gulf of Mexico is one thousand two hun- 
 dred and twenty miles, in the course of which it re- 
 ceives from the west, the Merrimack, St. Francis, 
 White, Arkansas, and fled rivers ; and from the east, 
 the Kaskaskia, Great Muddy, Ohio, Wolf, and Yazoo. 
 This part of the river is more particularly charac- 
 terized by snags and sawyers, — falling-in banks and 
 islands; — sand bars and mud banks ; — and a channel 
 which is shifting by every flood, and of such extreme 
 velocity, that it was formerly thought it could not be 
 navigated by vessels propelled with sails. Subsequent 
 experience has shown this conjecture to be unfoun-
 
 25 ( J 
 
 ded, although a strong wind is required for its ascent. 
 It is daily navigated in ships of from four hun- 
 dred to eight hundred tons burden, from the Ba- 
 lize to New Orleans, a distance of one hundred 
 miles, and could be ascended higher were it neces- 
 sary ; but the commerce of the river above New Or- 
 leans is now carried on, in a great measure, by ^team- 
 boats. The width of the river opposite St. Louis 
 is one mile ; it is somewhat less at New Orleans, 
 and still less at its disembochure. A bar at its 
 mouth prevents ships drawing more than eighteen 
 feet water from entering. This river is occupied by 
 different bands of the Chippeway Indians from its 
 sources, to the Buffalo Plains in the vicinity of the 
 upper St. Francis, the precise limit being a matter 
 of dispute, and the cause of the long war between 
 them and the Sioux. The Sioux bands claim from 
 thence to the Prarie du Che in, and the Foxes and 
 Sacs to the river Desmoines. From this vicinity to 
 the Gulf of Mexico the Indian title has been ex- 
 tinguished by the United States Government either 
 through purchase, treaty, or conquest, and we have 
 now the complete control of this river and all its 
 tributary streams, with the exception of the upper 
 part of Red River. The wild rice, (zezania aqua- 
 tica,) \s not found on the waters of the Mississippi 
 south of the forty -first degree of north latitude, nor 
 the Indian reed, or cane, north of the thirty-eighth. 
 These two productions characterize the extremes of 
 this river. It has been observed by McKenzie, that 
 the former is hardly known, or at least, does not 
 come to maturity, north of the fiftieth degree of 
 north latitude. The alligator is first seen below 
 the junction of the Arkansas. The paroquet is
 
 200 
 
 found as far north as the mouth of the Illinois, and 5 
 flocks have occasionally been seen as high as Chi- 
 cago. The name of this river is derived from the 
 Algonquin language, one of the original tongues of 
 our continent, which is now spoken nearly in its 
 primeval purity by the different bands of Chippe- 
 ways ; — less so by the Knistineaux and Ottaways ; — 
 with great corruptions by the Foxes, Sacs, and Pot- 
 towatomies, and some other tribes ; — and in various 
 dialects by the five bands of Iroquois of New- York. 
 It is a compound of the word Jllissi, signifying great, 
 and Sepe, a river. The former is variously pronoun- 
 ced missil or michil, as in Michilimackinac ; — michi 
 as in Michigan ; — Missu — as in Missouri ;- — and mmi, 
 as in Mississineway, and Mississippi. The variation 
 does not appear greater than we should expect in an 
 unwritten language. They have no other word 
 to express the highest degree of magnitude either 
 in a moral or physical sense, and it may be consid- 
 ered as synonymous not only with our word great, 
 but also, magnificent, — supreme,- — stupendous, — 
 sublime, — enormous, — extensive, — prodigious, — am- 
 ple, &c. — words which are certainly not synony- 
 mous, in our language, but have only one term 
 by which they can be translated into theirs. 
 The word Sippi, may be considered as the English 
 pronunciation, (derived through the medium of the 
 French) of Sepc, and affords an instance of an Indian 
 term, of much melody, being corrupted by Europe- 
 ans, into one that has a harsh and hissing sound. 
 
 No attempt has heretofore been made to deter- 
 mine the elevation of that part of the American con- 
 tinent which gives origin to the Mississippi, the St. 
 Lawrence, and the Red River of the North ; —
 
 2GI 
 
 and from the immense distance of this summit level 
 from the ocean, and the difficulties that must attend 
 the survey, it is probable that many years may elapse 
 before this point will be determined by actual ob- 
 servation. With a view, however, of approaching 
 the probable altitude, 1 have estimated from the 
 best data I could command, the descent of the dif- 
 ferent rapids, — streams, and falls in the whole route, 
 with the elevation of the highlands which separate 
 the waters of Lake Superior from those of the Mis- 
 sissippi, and the descent of the streams flowing into 
 the latter; and 1 shall here present* the results of 
 these observations. The estimates have always 
 been made upon the spot, and noted in a particular 
 book kept for that purpose, and I have made it a con- 
 stant practice to avail myself of the judgment of the 
 members of the expedition, in deciding upon the 
 mean velocity of streams, — the heights of falls and 
 rapids, and the elevation of highlands; and feel 
 particularly indebted to the observations of Gov. 
 Cass, and Doct. Wolcott. Taking the elevation of 
 Lake Erie as determined by the actual survey of the 
 New-York Canal Commissioners for a basis, we find 
 the surface of Lake Superior to be six hundred and 
 forty-one feet above the Atlantic ocean. From the 
 head of this lake, following up the St. Louis river to 
 the Savannah portage, and from thence across the 
 dividing ground, to the spot where we first strike the 
 waters of the Mississippi, at the head of the west 
 Savannah, the aggregate elevation, (as detailed in 
 Chap. 8,) may be estimated at five hundred and fif- 
 ty feet. The descent of this stream into Sandy Lake, 
 and from thence into the Mississippi river, as given 
 at page 235, will reduce this estimate by the sum of
 
 262 
 
 sixty feet. From the junction of Sandy Lake river, 
 to the principal source of the Mississippi in Cassi- 
 na lake, we attain an elevation agreeably to the an- 
 nexed schedule* of one hundred and sixty-two feet, 
 which superadded to the former estimates, shews the 
 Mississippi river to originate at an altitude of thirteen 
 hundred and thirty feet above the Atlantic. This is thirty 
 feet higher than the Alleghany mountains in Penn- 
 sylvania, but less by two hundred and fifty feet, than 
 the highest peak (New Beacon) of the Highlands of 
 the Hudson. What the descent of the river La 
 Beesh, the principal inlet of Cassina lake, may be, 
 we cannot determine, as we have not explored thai 
 stream, but the Indians represent it to have many 
 rapids. Taking the length of the Mississippi, how- 
 ever, from Cassina lake, to the ocean, this result will 
 give it a mean descent of two feet, 2 |^§-f inches 
 per mile, the falls of St. Anthony and Lake Pepin, 
 inclusive, — for what the estimate would loose by the 
 perpendicular pitch of the former, is compensated 
 by the dead level of twenty-four miles in the latter. 
 
 * DESCENT OF THE MISSISSIPPI: 
 
 Rapids above the junction of Sandy Lake river 
 
 numbered from 1 to 6, see Day LIV. 
 Rapid No. 7, 
 Rapid No. 8, 
 Rapid No. 9, 
 Falls of Peckagama, 
 Mean descent of the Mississippi from Cassina 
 
 lake to the falls of Peckagama, 170 miles, at 
 
 3 inches per mile, 42-9 11 1-0 
 
 Mean fall of the Mississippi from the falls of 
 
 Peckagama to the junction of Sandy Lake 
 
 river, 102 miles, at C inches per mile, 51 162 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Total Fee: 
 
 29 
 
 
 3 
 
 31 
 
 2 
 
 33 
 
 16 
 
 49 
 
 20 
 
 69
 
 263 
 
 To those who are conversant with the hydrography 
 of rivers, this result will communicate a better notion 
 of the rapidity of the Mississippi, than the most la- 
 boured description of the difficulties of its ascent. — 
 1 am not aware of any fallacies in these calculations, 
 but think they have generally been made within 
 bounds, and that whenever the altitude is determin- 
 ed by scientific measurement it will be found to ex- 
 ceed the present result. 
 
 There is no part of the Mississippi river which 
 originates in the territories of British America. The 
 northern boundary line of the United States will 
 probably run a hundred miles north of its extreme 
 source ; but this is a point which still remains unset- 
 tled between the two governments, and some diffi- 
 culties, it is apprehended, may prevent a ready ad- 
 justment of this line. The treaty of I7ci3 which de- 
 signates the limits of the United States, fixes the 
 northern boundary as a line drawn through the 
 great chain of lakes to the head of Lake Superior, 
 thence by the most practicable water communica- 
 tion to the Lake of the Woods, and from its most 
 northwestern extremity due west to the Mississippi. 
 It is well ascertained that a line drawn due west 
 from the northwestern extremity of the Lake of the 
 Woods, would not strike the sources of the Missis- 
 sippi. McKenzie states the northwestern point of 
 the Lake of the Woods to lie in north latitude 49° 
 37', and west longitude from Greenwich, 94° 31'. 
 
 Mr. Thompson, the Astronomer !o the Northwest 
 Company, determined the latitude of Red Cedar or 
 Cassina lake to be 47° 33' ; which is not, however, 
 presumed to be entirely correct. The great north- 
 ern bend of the Missouri is laid down by Lewis and
 
 2G1 
 
 Clark in north latitude 47° 32', and the river above 
 that point is described as running south of west, so 
 that a line drawn in the manner directed, from the 
 Lake of the Woods, would not strike either of these 
 streams. This was anticipated at the conclusion of 
 Jay's treaty in 1794, but nothing further was agreed 
 upon in this respect, than that the line should be es- 
 tablished by anegociation, according to the spirit of 
 the former treaty, to the principles of justice, and 
 the mutual convenience of the parties. No provision 
 is made for it in the treaty of Ghent. 
 
 Some difficulty appears also to exist as to the true 
 construction of that part of the treaty which re- 
 quires a line to be drawn from the head of Lake Su- 
 perior by the most practicable water communication 
 to the lake of the woods. There are two grand 
 routes of communication pursued by the north west 
 traders namely ; — 1. Byway of the Grande Portage, 
 commencing on the north shore of lake Superior, 
 four hundred and eighty miles from the Sault de St. 
 Marie, which leads through a succession of small 
 lakes to the Rainy lakes, and thence to the Lake of 
 the Woods : — 2. By the St. Louis river and Savan- 
 nah Portage into Sandy Lake and the Mississippi, and 
 thence through lake Winnipec and across the Turtle 
 Portage into the Rainy lakes, or, — by following up the 
 St. Louis to its source which is near the borders of 
 the little Rainy lake. The first route has long been 
 the thoroughfare of the northwest company, and al- 
 though less travelled now than formerly, is the most 
 direct, expeditious, and practicable route; and wa£ 
 the only one in use at the conclusion of the treaty. — 
 The United States claim this as the northern bounda- 
 ry, and it lias accordingly obtained upon all our maps.
 
 265 
 
 In the maps of the north west company, however, the 
 line is drawn through the St. Louis river. The terri- 
 tory in dispute is equal in extent to any of the origin* 
 al states of the confederation, Virginia, Pennsylvania, 
 and New-York excepted. This part of the bounda- 
 ry will come under the cognizance of the commis- 
 sioners appointed under the treaty of Ghent. 
 
 Finding it impracticable to proceed at this season 
 of the year, in canoes to lake La Beesh, an immedi- 
 ate return was here determined upon, and we em- 
 barked at five o'clock in the afternoon on our de- 
 scent. Crossing the lake we passed down the Mis- 
 sissippi eighteen miles and encamped on the right 
 bank of the river at twilight. 
 
 LX. Day. {July 22c?.) — Quitting our encampment 
 before day light, we reached lake Winnipec at eight 
 o'clock, and performed the traverse against a strong 
 head wind. This occupied two hours, during which 
 our canoes were violently tossed upon the waves, 
 and the voyageurs manifested some apprehensions 
 for our safety. Entering the outlet of this lake 
 which is the Mississippi, we left our encampment of 
 the 20th on our right, and successively passing little 
 Winnipec or Rush lake, and the confluence of 
 Leech lake river, we descended to within ten miles 
 of the spot of our encampment on the 19th, having 
 progressed altogether a distance of ninety-eight 
 miles. In the course of the day we passed nine In- 
 dian canoes on their ascent. They were freighted 
 with rolls of birch bark, of the kind employed for 
 canoes, and with bundles of rushes of which they 
 manufacture matts for bedding and tor covering their 
 
 U
 
 266 
 
 Wigwams. The weather continued cloudy, with 
 wind, and occasional showers of rain. 
 
 LXI. Day. — {July 23d.) — Between our sufferings 
 from the stings of the musquitoes, and our anxiety to 
 rejoin our friends at Sandy lake, we obtained lit- 
 tle rest, and decamped at a quarter past four in 
 the morning. We reached the falls of Peckagama 
 at one o'clock, and spent forty minutes in crossing 
 the portage with our baggage and canoes. We now 
 successively passed the Prairie and Trout rivers, and 
 proceeded twenty-eight miles below our encamp- 
 ment of the 1 8th, distance ninety-eight miles. — 
 Weather cloudy, with rain. During the forenoon we 
 met a canoe of Chippeways on their ascent, and 
 passing with rapidity, merely exchanged the com- 
 mon salutation of ban jour, a term they have bor- 
 rowed from the French. Towards evening, an an- 
 imal of singular appearance, supposed to be the 
 Wolverine, was seen swimming across the river, but 
 our efforts to take it proved unavailing. Such are 
 the incidents of a voyage in this remote region. 
 
 LXII.Day. — {July 24$,) — A change of wind took 
 pi ice during the night, and we were favoured with 
 ihe most delightful weather. Proceeding under the 
 double influence of a strong current and the force 
 of our paddles, we progressed with surprising rapidi- 
 ty, and at two o'clock in the afternoon landed at the 
 Southwest Company's Fort on Sandy lake, a distance 
 of seventy-two miles, having performed on our re- 
 turn, the same distance in three days, which we 
 were occupied four and a half in ascending. We 
 were rejoiced to find our friends in perfect health,
 
 267 
 
 and that no attempts had been made by the savages, 
 during our absence, to molest them. A pleasure, 
 scarcely less satisfactory in its nature, arose from the 
 termination of a part of our voyage, which had ap- 
 peared to us to present greater difficulties in its ac- 
 complishment, and less in its character and produc- 
 tions to reward exploration, than any other section 
 of the tour; and in fact, we have neither found the 
 Jabour less, nor the reward greater, than was antici- 
 pated. Barren in its geological character and phys- 
 ical productions, the incidents of the lour have of- 
 fered little to compensate the want of zoological in- 
 terest, picturesque views, and populous Indian set- 
 tlements : — and a number of circumstances have 
 concurred to render our situation on this visit, one 
 of peculiar privation, fatigue, and physical suffering. 
 Not the least among these, have been the calls of an 
 unsatisfied appetite, the stings of the musquito, and 
 the almost incessant motion of travelling, depriving us 
 of due rest at night. By this vigilance, however — by 
 this constant hurry on vard — by dismissing the great- 
 est part of our baggage, and the few conveniences 
 we had thus far carried — by stinting ourselves as to 
 provisions,andby leaving the weight of the expedition 
 at Sandy lake, we have performed the voyage in less 
 than half the time it would otherwise have requir- 
 ed, and in less time than it has ever, as we are told 
 by the voyageurs, been before performed. 
 
 The state of the weather during our absence has 
 presented several striking transitions, in regard to 
 the distribution of heat, as well as the transparency 
 of the atmosphere, winds, rain, &c. Having left my 
 thermometer with Mr. Doty, during the time of our 
 journey to the sources of the Mississippi, he favoured
 
 2t5tt 
 
 me with the following observations, made at the 
 Company's Fort. 
 
 Meteorological Register kept at Sandy Lake. 
 
 SANDY 
 LAKE. 
 
 '820 
 July 17 
 
 Aim. Temp. 
 
 Mean 
 temp. 
 
 ~78~ 
 
 AVEATHER. 
 
 A VI. | P. M. 
 
 d|12| 2| 8| 9 
 
 |76|8.:|79|78 
 51|64|66|53|50 
 
 Morning- rain — then 'air. 
 
 1 - 18 
 
 57 
 
 Pair. 
 
 - 19 
 
 46|6i|70|5?| 
 
 58 
 
 Nig"ht rain — morning' cloudy- 
 
 -then clear. 
 
 - 20 60\oJ\ii4\7 i\ 74 
 
 
 - 21 
 
 68|86|88|8.5|74 
 7j{88|90|77| 
 
 70r82|88|78| _ 
 
 80 
 
 
 - -j 
 
 82 
 79 
 
 Clear — some thunder. 
 
 
 ' - 23 
 
 Nig-li' and morn, rain — af ernoon thunder. 
 
 - 24l74|87|89|78| 
 
 81 
 
 Fair. (Broke thermometer.) 
 
 1 8)589 
 73 
 
 i mean daily temperature. 
 

 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 J O U RJV E F, 
 
 FROM SANDY LAKE TO THE AMERICAN GARRISON AT 
 ST. PETER'S. 
 
 LXI1I. Day.— (July 25th.) 
 
 J. HE expedition embarked at the Fort at twelve 
 o'clock, in three canoes and a barge on its descent to 
 the falls of St. Anthony, accompanied by embassa- 
 dors of peace from the Chippeway tribes to the Si- 
 oux of St. Peter's. These occupied a separate ca- 
 noe. It is three miles from the Fort to the Missis- 
 sippi. The current of the river below the outlet of 
 Sandy lake, and the natural appearances, are similar 
 to what it exhibits for a hundred miles above. The 
 banks are alluvial, elevated from six to ten feet; 
 trees — elm, maple, pine, and birch. We descended 
 twenty-eight miles and encamped on a high sandy 
 bank on the west shore. The river has several ra- 
 pids in that distance, and some small islands covered 
 entirely with grass, and small tufts of willows, with 
 piles of driftwood collected at their heads. No 
 rock strata appear, but loose stones of granite, horn- 
 blende, an! red ferruginous quartz, are seen in the 
 bed of the stream in passing over the rapids, and in 
 some places, along the margin of the river, Among
 
 2/0 
 
 the forest trees, pine appears to predominate on the 
 lands which lie a distance off the river, but elm is 
 most abundant along the shore : maple and birch 
 less so, and black walnut and oak sparing. The co- 
 lour of the water on looking into the river resembles 
 that of chocolate, but on dipping up a cup full, it 
 appears colourless and clear. The weather remain- 
 ed fair and pleasant during the day, but clouded up 
 towards evening. 
 
 LX1V. Day. — {July 26th.) — It commenced raining 
 during the night, and as we had neglected to have 
 our tents pitched, we were first awoke by the falling 
 rain, and during the intervals of the showers, the 
 musquitoes assailed us in such numbers, as to for- 
 bid the hope of rest. In this situation we passed 
 the remainder of the night, around our fires, en- 
 deavouring to divert our reflections, by the inter- 
 change of anecdote, and absolutely prevented from 
 falling asleep by the labour of brushing away the 
 voracious hordes of musquitoes, which unceasingly 
 beset us with their stings, and poured forth their hate- 
 ful and incessant buzzing upon our ears. It certain- 
 ly requires a different species of philosophy to with- 
 stand, undisturbed, the attacks of this ravenous in- 
 sect, from that which we are called upon to exer- 
 cise upon the sudden occurrence of any of the great 
 calamities and misfortunes of life. He who is af- 
 flicted, without complaining, by an unexpected 
 change of fortune, or the death of a friend, may be 
 thrown into a fit of restless impatience by the stings 
 of the musquito; and the traveller who is prepared 
 1o withstand the savage scalping knife, and the en-
 
 271 
 
 raged bear, has nothing to oppose to the attacks of 
 an enemy, which is too minute to be dreaded, and too 
 numerous to be destroyed. 
 
 We embarked a few moments before five o'clock 
 in the morning, the atmosphere being misty and 
 dark, and the weather cloudy, which eventuated in 
 rain before six o'clock. It ceased again as the sun 
 approached the meridian, and the weather was clear 
 and delightful at noon. A few minutes before eight 
 o'clock we passed the mouth of the River au Sole (Al- 
 der river) a stream of twenty yards wide entering 
 on the right shore. In the afternoon we passed four 
 streams of considerable size, entering on the left 
 shore, at short distances from each other — names 
 unknown ; and at half past seven in the evening 
 passed the mouth of Pine river, a stream of sixty 
 yards wide, flowing from the west. This river is a hun- 
 dred and forty miles in length, expanding in that dis- 
 tance into several small lakes, which communicate 
 with the waters of Leech lake. In ascending it the 
 Indians pursue the following route. It is one day's 
 journey into White Fish lake, which is six miles 
 Ions: and two in width — then five miles to lake 
 Poppenosh, which is three miles long by one 
 in width — then three miles to a third lake, which 
 is seven miles long and two in width. From this 
 it is a short distance to Caspetawgan, or Tobacco- 
 pouch Lake, which is five miles in circumference, 
 and nearly circular, from which it is one day's jour- 
 ney into a fifth lake — thence two day's to a port- 
 age, which conveys you to the sixth lake, from 
 which there are several short portages from lake to 
 lake until you arrive at Leech Lake. The whole of
 
 272 
 
 this distance is a succession of pine ridges and 
 swamps, and the Indians affirm that one half of the 
 land is covered with lakes. There is an island in 
 the mouth of Pine river, well timbered with pine, 
 elm, and maple, and a rapid in the Mississippi river 
 a short distance below, at the foot of which we en- 
 camped, on a high bank on the east shore, having de- 
 scended one hundred miles. In the course of this 
 day's journey, the river has presented several ra- 
 pids, islands, and ripples. The fall at none of the 
 rapids will exceed six feet in a distance of three 
 hundred yards. The islands are small and not well 
 wooded, and are encumbered with piles of drifted 
 trees, limbs, and leaves, which give them a novel 
 appearance, and at the same time serve to convey 
 an idea of the rise of the river, and of the force of 
 its current, during its semi-annual floods. Snags be- 
 come more frequent in this part of the channel ; and 
 the river in several places undermines its banks, 
 which are elevated from ten to twenty feet, and bear 
 a forest of elm, birch, pine, maple, black wal- 
 nut, and oak (quercus nigra.) Loose stones are 
 found at all the rapids ; they are chiefly referable 
 to the different varieties of granite, hornblende, slate, 
 and sand stone. Ducks, the teal, and the plover, 
 have been observed ; — also, the bald eagle, king- 
 fisher, mock bird, robin, and pigeon. As night ap- 
 proached, we heard, for the first time in the region, 
 the whipporwill, which is called by the Indians 
 Muck-a wiss, being the sounds, according to their no- 
 tions, which it utters. Among the plants, at the 
 spot of our encampment, we noticed the wild rose 
 (rosa parviflora) and a flower, resembling in some of 
 its characters the ipomaea nil, but with a short flo-
 
 273 
 
 riferous stem, and lance-oblong leaves : peduncle 
 one-flowered, bell-shaped, white, downy. It appears 
 to have escaped the notice of Pursh, in his botanical 
 researches in the northwest. We also, during this 
 day's journey, first noticed the common red barking 
 squirrel, which, invited from its nest, by the beauty 
 of the weather during the afternoon, has been fre- 
 quently observed playing among the branches of the 
 black walnut, and other favourite trees. This 
 sprightly little animal is equally entitled to our ad- 
 miration from the beauty of its form and the agility 
 of its movements; and there is no person who has 
 visited an American forest during the summer sea- 
 son, either as a sportsman or an admirer of nature, 
 who is not ready to acknowledge how much this 
 pretty and playful little quadruped contributes to en- 
 liven and beautify the scene. There are several 
 species of this animal in the forests of the Mississip- 
 pi, and other parts of the United States. They are 
 all referable to the natural genus sciurus, in the 
 Linnsean system, the generic characters of which are 
 two fore teeth in each jaw, the upper ones wedge- 
 shaped and cutters like those of the beaver ; the infe- 
 rior ones sharp-pointed, like those of the dog and wolf. 
 Some of the species of this genus, however, have 
 their fore and hind legs connected by a thin mem- 
 brane covered with hair by means of which they are 
 enabled to support themselves in the air while leap- 
 ing from one tree to another. Naturalists have seized 
 upon this character to separate the genus into two di- 
 visions ; distinguishing those which possess the mem-' 
 branc petauri, or flying-squirrels, and those without 
 it schtri scadcntcs, or climbing squirrels. The specie 
 
 35
 
 274 
 
 fie name of the common red squirrel is sciurus vul- 
 garis. 
 
 LXV. Day. — {July 21th.) — There was a heavy 
 fall of clew during the night, and a foggy atmosphere 
 at early day light, but the sun arose clear, and the 
 day continued pleasant, with the exception of the 
 oppressive heat at noon. We quit our encampment 
 at five o'clock. The pine lands which commenced 
 yesterday at the junction of Pine river with the Mis- 
 sissipi, continued to within a short distance of the 
 mouth of the river De Corbeau. They are 
 elevated from sixty to a hundred feet, and lie in 
 ridges. The principal timber is the yellow pine. — 
 Mixed with the sand which is in some places naked, 
 and destitute of vegetation, are fragments of granite, 
 hornblende, quartz, jasper, and carnelian. This 
 strip of sandy country was denominated the Dead 
 Pines by Pike. At twelve o'clock we passed the 
 mouth of the river De Corbeau, the largest stream 
 which has yet entered the Mississippi, and by which 
 a communication is maintained with the Red river. 
 ft is ascended by the traders a hundred and eighty 
 miles to the mouth of the Pemmisco, or Go-by-water 
 river, which flows in from the north west. This is 
 also ascended a like distance, and a portage of two 
 pauses then made into Otter Tail Lake, which has 
 a navigable outlet into Red River, of which it is in- 
 deed, one of the principal sources. The south fork 
 of the Dp Corbeau originates near the sources of 
 the St. Peter's, and the Indians are in the practice of 
 passing that way in canoes. The river De Corbeau 
 joins the Mississippi in north latitude 45° 49' 50" and is 
 the largest tributary which it receives above the falls
 
 275 
 
 of St. Anthony, being nearly of equal magnitude.— 
 The lands upon its banks are rich, and covered 
 with a heavy growth of hard wood, chiefly elm, su- 
 gar tree, black walnut, and oak. At the point of 
 junction there is a large and well wooded island 
 called the Isle De Corbeau, by which the river 
 is hid from the view until you have nearly passed 
 it, when by turning the eye towards the south, 
 you have a fine view of its broad and beautiful sur- 
 face, and the luxuriant foliage which overshadows 
 its banks. The Mississippi assumes an increased 
 width below, and is particularly characterized by 
 numerous and heavy timbered islands, all of which 
 present immense drifts of floodwood at their heads, 
 and by dividing the river into a number of channels, 
 serve to increase its width, and the difficulties of its 
 navigation. Here also, the Buffalo Plains com- 
 mence, and continue downward, on both banks of 
 the river, to the falls of St. Anthony. These plains 
 are elevated about sixty feet above the summer-level 
 of the water, and consist of a sandy alluvion cov- 
 ered with rank grass, and occasional clumps of the 
 dwarf black oak. They generally present steep, 
 naked, and falling-in banks towards the river, and 
 disclose innumerable small fragments of carnelian, 
 agate, and jasper, along with masses of coarser 
 rock, such as granite, hornblende, &c. 
 
 We descended the river a distance of ninety 
 miles, having been eleven hours in our canoes, and 
 encamped on the prairie on the left bank. Here 
 our Indians killed an elk and a buffalo, a number of 
 which were seen upon the contiguous plain. A short 
 distance above, we passed r hunting camp of Chip- 
 peways, consisting of probably one hundred and
 
 276 
 
 fifty souls. On landing, we were received with a 
 salute in the Indian method, and exchanged some 
 corn, of which they were much in need, for pemmi- 
 can, and dried buflalo beef. 
 
 LXVI. Day. (July 2Hth.)— Embarked at half past 
 four. Two miles below we passed the mouth of 
 Elk river, entering on the right shore. This is a 
 stream of forty yards wide, and has a rapid near its 
 mouth which is visible from the Mississippi. It is, 
 however, ascended a great distance in canoes, and 
 communicates with the St. Peter's, by two short port- 
 ages. 
 
 The little Falls are four miles below the mouth of 
 Elk river, where the Mississippi forces its way 
 through a narrow defile of rocks which appear in 
 rugged masses in the bed of the stream, and attain 
 an elevation of from twenty to forty feet upon its 
 banks. Passing with great velocity over the schute 
 of the falls, it was difficult to ascertain the <reolog;i- 
 cal character of the rock, but it appeared to be gra- 
 nite very much mixed and darkened with hornblen- 
 de. The river at this place is narrowed to half its 
 usual width. The descent of water may be estima- 
 ted at ten feet, in one hundred and fifty yards. Be- 
 tween Elk river and the little Falls, we pass the 
 Painted Rock standing upon the west bank of the 
 river. Jt consists of a mass of granite and hornblen- 
 de, upon which the Indians have drawn a number of 
 hieroglyphics, and rude designs. 
 
 Being now in the region of buffalo, we concluded 
 to land, in the course of the day, at some conven- 
 ient place for hunting them. This we were soon in- 
 vited to do by seeing one of those animals along <Ih
 
 277 
 
 shore of the river, and on ascending the bank, we 
 observed, upon a boundless prairie, two droves of 
 them, feeding upon the grass. All who had guns 
 adapted for the purpose, sallied forth in separate 
 parties upon the prairie, while those who felt less 
 ambition to signalize themselves upon the occasion, 
 or were more illy accoutred for the activities of the 
 chase, remained upon an eminence which overlook- 
 ed the plain, to observe the movements of this an- 
 imal while under an attack of musketry, and to en- 
 joy the novel spectacle of a buffalo-hunt. The grass 
 was so tall as to allow an unobserved approach to- 
 wards the spot where they remained feeding, but 
 the first fire proved unsuccessful, at the same time 
 that it scattered the herd, which were now seen run- 
 ning in all directions across the prairie, and an in- 
 cessant fire of random shots was kept up for about 
 two hours ; during which three buffaloes were killed, 
 and a great number wounded, which made their es- 
 cape. While thus harassed, they often passed with- 
 in a few yards of us, and we enjoyed a fine oppor- 
 tunity of witnessing their form, size, colour, and 
 speed. The buffalo has a clumsy gait, like the do- 
 mestic ox, which it also resembles in size and gene- 
 ral appearance. Unlike the ox, however, this animal 
 exhibits no diversity of colour, being a uniform dark 
 brown inclining to dun. It is never spotted, with 
 black, red, or white. It has short black horns growing 
 nearly straight from the head, and set at a considera- 
 ble distance apart. The male has a hunch upon its 
 shoulders, covered with long flocks of shaggy hair, 
 extending to the top of the head from which it falls 
 over the eyes and horns, giving the animal a very 
 formidable appearance. The hoofs are cloven
 
 278 
 
 like those of the cow, but the legs are much stouter, 
 and altogether, it is more clumsy and ill-proportion- 
 ed. The tail is naked till towards the end, where 
 it is tufted, in the manner of the lion. The general 
 weight of this animal is from eight hundred to a 
 thousand pounds ; but they sometimes attain an 
 enormous size, and have been killed upon the Mis- 
 sissippi prairies weighing two thousand pounds. — 
 The skin of a buffalo-bull when first taken off, is 
 three fourths of an inch in thickness, and cannot be 
 lifted by the strongest man. A hundred and fifty 
 pounds of tallow have been taken from one animal, 
 and it is highly esteemed by the Indians in preparing 
 their hommony. Instances of excessive fatness are, 
 however, rare, and such over-fed animals become so 
 unweildy that they often fall a prey to wolves; par- 
 ticularly if they happen to stray a distance from the 
 herd. The buffalo is a timid animal, and flies at 
 the approach of man. It is however asserted by the 
 hunters, that when painfully wounded, it becomes 
 furious, and will turn upon its pursuers. There is a 
 particular art in killing the buffalo with a rifle, on- 
 ly known to experienced hunters, and when they do 
 *iot drop down, which is often the case, it requires a 
 person intimately acquainted with their habits, to 
 pursue them with success. This has been fully 
 instanced in the futile exertions of our party, 
 upon the present occasion, for out of a great 
 number of shots few have reached the ob- 
 ject, and very few proved effectual, and the little 
 success we met with is chiefly attributable to the 
 superior skill of the Indians who accompanied us. — 
 Unless a vital part is touched, the shot proves use- 
 less. It also requires a larger ball than the deer and 
 o\k. Lieutenant Pike thinks that in the open prai-
 
 279 
 
 ries, the bow and arrow could be used to better ad- 
 vantage than the gun, particularly on horseback, for 
 you might ride immediately along side the animal 
 and strike it where you pleased.* The Indians em- 
 ploy both the rifle, and arrow, and in the prairies of 
 Missouri and Arkansas, pursue the herds on horse- 
 back; but on the upper Mississippi, where they are 
 destitute of horses, they make amends for this defi- 
 ciency by several ingenious stratagems. One of the 
 most common of these is the method of hunting with 
 fire. For this purpose a great number of hunters 
 disperse themselves around a large prairie where 
 herds of buffalo happen to be feeding, and setting fire 
 to the grass encompass them on all sides. The buffa- 
 lo, having a great dread of fire, retire towards the 
 centre of the prairie as they see it approach, and here 
 being pressed together in great numbers, many are 
 trampled under foot, and the Indians rushing in with 
 their arrows and musketry, slaughter immense num- 
 bers in a short period. It is asserted that a thou- 
 sand animals have been killed by this stratagem in 
 one day. They have another method of hunting by 
 driving them over precipices, which is chiefly prac- 
 tised by the bands inhabiting the Missouri. To de- 
 coy the herds, several Indians disguise themselves in 
 the skins of the buffalo, taken off entire, and by coun- 
 terfeiting the lowing of this animal in distressj 
 they attract the herds in a certain direction, 
 and when they are at full speed, suddenly disappear 
 behind a cleft in the top of a precipice when those 
 animals which are in front on reaching the brink, are 
 pushed over by those pressing behind, and in this 
 
 * Pike's Expeditions, page 46.
 
 280 
 
 manner great numbers are crushed to death. These 
 practices are less common now than formerly, the 
 introduction of fire arms among most of the tribes, 
 putting it into the power of almost every individual 
 to kill sufficient for the support of his family. By a 
 very bad policy, however, they prefer the flesh of 
 the cows, which will in time destroy the species. — 
 Few of the native animals of the American forest 
 contribute more to the comforts of savage socie- 
 ty than the buffalo. Its skin when dressed, by a 
 process peculiar to them, forms one of the princi- 
 pal articles of clothing. The Sioux tribes particu- 
 larly excel in the method of dressing it, and are 
 very much in the habit of ornamenting their dresses 
 with porcupine quills, and paints. The skin dress- 
 ed with the hair on, supplies them with blankets, 
 and constitutes those durable and often beautiful 
 sleigh-robes which are now in such universal use 
 in the United States and the Canadas. The tal- 
 low of this animal, as well as the beef, has also 
 become an article of commerce, particularly in the 
 south western states and territories, and its horns 
 are exported for the manufacture of powder-flasks. 
 The tongue is considered superior in flavour to that 
 of the domestic cow, and the animal is often hunt- 
 ed for no other purpose. I have seen stockings and 
 hats manufactured from its wool with a little addi- 
 tion of common wool, or of cotton. This practice 
 is very common among the white hunters of Mis- 
 souri and Arkansas. The flesh of the buffalo is 
 not equal, in its fresh state, to that of the cow or 
 ox, but is superior when dried, which is the Indian 
 mode of preserving it.
 
 281 
 
 The attempts which have been made to domesti- 
 cate this animal, have not been attended with suc- 
 cess. Calves which have been taken in the woods 
 and brought up with the tame breed, have afterwards 
 discovered a wild and ungovernable temper, and 
 manifested their savage nature by breaking down the 
 strongest enclosures, and enticing the tame cattle 
 into the woods. The mixed breed is said to be bar- 
 ren, like the mule. The period of gesticulation is 
 ascertained to be twelve months, whereas that of the 
 cow is nine. A remarkable proof of the little affin- 
 ity existing between it, and the domestic breed of 
 cattle, was exhibited a few years ago in Canada, 
 where the connexion resulted in the death of the 
 cows submitted to the experiment. 
 
 Naturalists have generally considered the Ameri- 
 can buffalo {Bos Bubalus) of the same species with 
 the Bison and Aurochs of Europe and Asia, the difc 
 ference consisting in the former being less shaggy, 
 the hair partaking less of the character of wool, 
 and the conformation of the hind parts of the animal 
 being stouter and more like that of the common ox. 
 Several varieties of this species are found ; as the 
 anoa, seminudus, bos cafer, wild grunting ox, guave- 
 ra, musk buffalo, urus, and zebu, or Barbary cow. 
 
 The bison is at present found throughout the south- 
 ern parts of Asia and Africa, and is said to attain its 
 greatest size at Malabar, Abyssinia and Madagas- 
 car, where the extensive savannahs are clothed 
 with the most luxuriant herbage. The only parts of 
 Europe where this animal is now found, are the pro- 
 vince of Lithuania, the Carpathian mountains, and 
 the great Hercynian forest. 
 
 In America the buffalo is confined to the regions 
 36
 
 2»:i 
 
 situated between the 3Jbt and 49tti degrees of north 
 latitude, and west of the Mississippi river. The 
 only part of the country east of this rivery where 
 tlie builalo now remains, is that included between 
 the falls of St. Anthony and Sandy Lake, a range 
 of about six hundred miles. South of the 31st de- 
 gree of north latitude the buffalo is not found, but its 
 place is supplied in Mexico by the wild ox, without 
 a hunch, which is considered of European origin. 
 
 Having spent several hours in the chase of this 
 animal, and driven the herds off to a great distance, 
 we embarked, and proceeded down the river until 
 three o'clock, when we again landed on a high 
 prairie bank on the west shore, at the site of an old 
 Indian encampment of sixteen lodges. Here we 
 spent the remainder of the afternoon in hunting but- 
 falo, many of which were seen on the contiguous 
 plain, and encamped at night, having descended the 
 river fifty-four miles. The first object which attract- 
 ed our attention on landing was an Indian sign, or 
 letter of birch bark, affixed to a long pole in the 
 centre of the deserted encampment. This had been 
 left for the information of the Chippeways by a large 
 party of Sioux, on the termination of an excursion 
 up the river, for the purpose of meeting with the 
 former. As we carried embassadors of peace from 
 the Chippewny nation, they approached the hiero- 
 glyphical sign with great eagerness, and learned its 
 import with equal satisfaction. By it, they were in- 
 formed, that at the solicitation of the commandant of 
 the American garrison at St. Peter's, a large party of 
 the Sioux had proceeded thus far up the river on a 
 mission of peace, but not meeting with any of the 
 Chippeways, had returned ; and that they were equal*
 
 \y disposed for peace or war. The number of the 
 party, — the chiefs who headed them, — their route, — 
 the situation of their villages on the St. Peter's, — the 
 American garrison, and other particulars were accu- 
 rately delineated, or represented by symbols and 
 characters in common use, so that they experienced 
 no difficulty in the perusal, and explained to us with 
 great facility the import of the message. I have al- 
 ready adverted to this method of communication be- 
 tween the Indian tribes of the north, and can now 
 add, that the information given in this instance, was 
 strictly corroborated on our arrival at St. Petfir's. 
 
 The Mississippi below the junction of the river 
 De Corbeau, pursues a more direct course towards 
 the southwest. This has been particularly observa- 
 ble to-day. The current continues strong, and pre- 
 sents a great many islands and rapids. Piles of drift- 
 wood appear upon the heads of islands, and loose 
 granitic stones at the rapids. Snags become more 
 frequent. Several rivers and creeks join the river 
 on either shore, but none of any considerable mag- 
 nitude. The soil continues alluvial on both banks — 
 Ducks, geese, pelican, swan, and snipe, have been 
 frequently seen; — also, the eagle, hawk, buzzard, 
 heron, pigeon, and red squirrel. We passed Pike's 
 Block House about ten o'clock in the morning. Op- 
 posite our present encampment, on the east side of 
 the river, there is a bed of granite, two hundred and 
 fifty feet in height. It is considerably mixed with 
 hornblende. On ascending it I found the most 
 charming prospects in every direction. It commands 
 a view of the prairies on both banks of the Missis- 
 sippi, with the windings of the stream, and its isl- 
 ands and rapids for many miles above and below^
 
 284 
 
 and the interest of the scene was greatly enhanced 
 at the moment, by the herds of buffalo and deer 
 which were seen in various groupes upon the prai- 
 ries, and the delightful influence of a mild and 
 transparent summer atmosphere. 
 
 The Indians of this region subsist wholly without 
 the use of salt with their provisions. 
 
 LXVII. Day.— (July 29th.)— There is a heavy fall of 
 dew upon the banks of the Mississippi during the sum- 
 mer nights which is in some measure proportioned, 
 to the beat of the preceding day; and increases in a 
 direct ratio from its sources to its mouth. An expo- 
 sure to this is considered particularly injurious to 
 health, and is thought to be among the predisposing 
 causes of malignant fevers. Any article capable of 
 imbibing moisture, which is left out of the tent 
 during the night, becomes as completely saturated 
 with water, as if it had been exposed to a shower 
 of rain. 
 
 In the course of the night a pack of wolves were 
 heard on the opposite side of the river. There is 
 something doleful as well as terrific in the howling of 
 this animal, particularly when we start from a sound 
 «leep during the stillness of night. It is, howe- 
 ver, little to be dreaded, and I have never heard of 
 an instance of its making an attack upon man, in 
 the wilderness, although such instances have fre- 
 quently occurred on the frontiers of our settlements. 
 The cause of this apparently reversed order of na- 
 ture is obvious. In the wilderness the wolf finds no 
 difficulty in preying upon deer, buffalo, and elk, and 
 is thus supplied with food; but such animals as 
 linger upon the borders of society, where the
 
 285 
 
 deer has long been driven off, are compelled to re- 
 sort to sheep and young cattle, and in cases of ex- 
 treme hunger, are excited to acts of the most daring 
 ferocity, and will attack men and horses, and what- 
 ever happens to fall in their way. There are two 
 species of the wolf upon the banks of the Mississip- 
 pi, — the common grey wolf (Cams Lupus) and the 
 prairie wolf, which is unknown in Europe. The 
 latter consists of two varieties, the yellow and black 
 wolf. Both are much smaller than the canis lupus, 
 and hunt together in larger packs. They possess in 
 a superior degree the cunning, ferocity, and activity 
 of the species, and are characterized by a fierce, 
 sparkling yellow eye, and very sharp pointed ears. 
 The yellow kind exceeds the terrier dog in size, 
 which it also very much resembles in the shape of 
 its head, and the general conformation of its body. 
 The black wolf is larger, and I have seen an animal 
 of this kind killed on the Missouri prairies, measuring 
 three feet nine inches, from the tip of the nose to 
 the insertion of the tail, being covered in every part 
 with long black hair, but so coarse and bristly that 
 no value is set upon it by the traders. The sagaci- 
 ty of the black and yellow prairie wolf, is such that 
 when in a gang in the pursuit of deer, or buffalo, 
 they will divide themselves into separate parties, 
 and surrounding their prey, in a valley or open prai- 
 rie, seldom fail to take a number, particularly such 
 as are disabled by hunters, accidents, or age, or be- 
 come un wieldly from over-feeding. 
 
 There is another sound wbich will frequently dis- 
 turb the nightly rest of the traveller in the region of 
 the Mississippi. It is the half-human cry of the 
 Strix Nyctea, or great white owl, which inhabits the
 
 ■286 
 
 coldest regions of our continent, and is seldom 
 found south of the falls of St. Anthony. This ani- 
 mal utters its most hideous cry, a few moments 
 before the first glimpse of day light, and is 
 thus the unerring herald of day. At this time 
 it betakes itself to those recesses where it spends 
 the day in seclusion. With this warning cry we 
 were called to embark, and quit our encampment 
 at half past four, the weather fair, apd the ther- 
 mometer standing at 50°. On descending six miles, 
 we passed the mouth of Sac river, a stream of a 
 hundred yards in width, entering on the west shore. 
 This is pne of the principal hunting grounds of the 
 JVIinow Kantong band of Sioux. It is represented 
 as a gentle river, and bordered in its whole course 
 with the most luxuriant prairies, interspersed with 
 copses of woods, the favorite resort of buffalo, elk. 
 and deer. 
 
 At ten o'clock we encountered a formidable ra- 
 pid, called the Big Falls, which consists of a series 
 of breaks and schutes extending; about eight hun- 
 dred yards, in which distance the river may be esti- 
 mated to have an aggregate fall of sixteen feet. The 
 bed of the river at this fall is beset with sharp frag- 
 ments of granitic and hornblende rock, which also 
 appear in rolled masses upon the shores. The next 
 remarkable trait in the river is Prairie rapids, which 
 arc six in number, and have a mean descent of about 
 twenty feet in five miles. 
 
 At half past four in the afternoon, we passed the 
 month of the river St. Francis, a large stream falling 
 in on the east shore. For a great distance above 
 its mouth it runs parallel with the Mississippi, which 
 is the cause that so few tributaries enter the latter
 
 207 
 
 on the east shore after passing the mouth of the riv- 
 er De Corbeau. Its principal fork is Muddy river. — 
 Here Carver terminated his travels up the Missis- 
 sippi in the year 1765 ; and Father Hennepin in 
 1681. An island in the river opposite its mouth 
 hides the view of it from those who descend by the 
 west channel. 
 
 At six o'clock we passed Crow river, which is 
 tributary on the western bank. It is a long stream 
 and has a width of forty yards at its mouth, which 
 it preserves a great distance up. It is ascended in 
 canoes to within a few miles of its source, which is 
 six days journey west of the Mississippi. Its prin- 
 cipal fork is Tawtonga or Buffalo creek, which ori- 
 ginates in Dog lake, in the centre of a boundless 
 prairie. This is one of the best hunting grounds of 
 the Sioux. 
 
 We encamped five miles below Crow river on the 
 east bank of the Mississippi, having been thirteen 
 hours in our canoes, and descended ninety miles. 
 The current of the river this day has been unusually 
 strong, with many rapids and ripples. — Very few 
 snags have been observed. — A great many islands 
 were passed in the afternoon, and some small sand 
 bars, being the first noticed. — Prairies continue on 
 both banks, with occasional clumps of trees, and 
 forests of two or three miles in extent. The growth 
 of wood upon the islands is elm, black and white 
 walnut, maple, oak, and ash : — upon the prairies, 
 dwarf black oak. Along the banks of the river, peb- 
 bles of quartz, granite, hornblende, carnelian, and 
 agate are seen. In one instance, I picked up a fine 
 specimen of agatized wood, such as is common up- 
 on the lower Mississippi, and along the shores of the
 
 283 
 
 Missouri. The colour of the water continues a light 
 chocolate brown in the stream, but appears clear in 
 small quantities. Pebblesat the bottom of the river 
 ran be plainly discerned through it at four or five 
 feet depth. The quality of the soil of the prairies 
 improves as we descend, and during the last twenty 
 miles may be considered of the richest kind. The 
 prairies are in fact covered with a stratum of the most 
 recently deposited, black, marly alluvion, which 
 appears to be composed, in a great degH^of vege- 
 table mould. It is entirely destitute of those round- 
 ed pebbles and stones which generally characterize 
 upland soils, although bottomed upon a stratum of 
 alluvion in which they are abundantly disseminated. 
 The whole, apparently, rests immediately upon gra- 
 nitic and hornblende rock, which occasionally rises 
 through it, in rugged peaks, and beds. 
 
 LXVIII. Day.— (July 30th.)— It was five o'clock in 
 the morning when we left our encampment. On de- 
 scending six miles we reached the mouth of the 
 Mississawgaigon or Rum river, a large and long- 
 stream coming in upon the east bank. It originates in 
 Spirit Lake, which is ten days journey north of its 
 mouth. This lake is twelve miles long and four in 
 width, of an irregular shape and beautified with se- 
 veral islands. It is only two days journey south- 
 west of Sandy Lake. Its waters are very transpa- 
 rent, and afford a variety of fish, and the Indians 
 say that its shores are strewed with an infinite varie- 
 ty of clear and shining stones, some of which are 
 as large as a man's fist. These, from their descrip- 
 tions, are presumed to be carnelians, agates, chalce- 
 donies, and other silicious gems, which are known
 
 
 h
 
 289 
 
 to be the product of the contiguous regions. Spir- 
 it Lake lias two inlets, one of which called Akeek 
 Seeba, originates a few miles west of the banks of 
 St Louis river near the Grand Rapids ; the other 
 is ascended in canoes within a day's walk of Lower 
 Red Cedar Lake. 
 
 The falls of St: Anthony are fourteen miles be- 
 low the confluence of the Mississawgaeigon. We 
 reached the upper end of the portage at half past 
 eight in the morning, and while the voyageurs were 
 busied in the transportation of our baggage, hastened 
 to take a view of this celebrated cataract. The 
 river has a perpendicular pitch of forty feet, with a 
 formidable rapid above and below. An island at 
 the brink of the falls, divides the current into two 
 sheets, the largest of which passes on the west of 
 the island. The rapid below the schute is filled 
 with large fragments of rock, in the interstices of 
 which some alluvial soil has accumulated, which 
 nourishes a stinted growth of cedars. This rapid 
 extends half a mile, in which distance the river may 
 be estimated to have a descent offifteen feet. The 
 rapid preceding the falls, has a descent of about 
 ten feet in the distance of three hundred yards, 
 where the river runs with a swift but unruffled cur- 
 rent over a smooth stratum of rock a little inclined 
 towards the brink. The entire fall therefore in a 
 little less than three fourths of a mile, is sixty-five 
 feet. The rock is a white sand stone overlayed by 
 secondary lime stone. This formation is first seen 
 half a mile above the falls, where it breaks out ab- 
 ruptly on the banks of the river. The perspective 
 view (Plate VII.) is taken from a point about two 
 hundred yards below the schute of the falls on the 
 
 37
 
 290 
 
 aast shore, and a short distance west of the portage 
 path. The scene presents nothing of that majesty 
 and awe which is experienced in the gulf below 
 ihe cataract of Niagara. We do not hear that 
 deep and appalling tone in the roar of water, nor 
 do we feel that tremulous motion of the rocks under 
 our feet, which impresses the visitor at Niagara with 
 an idea of greatness, that its magnificent outline of 
 rock and water, would not, independently, create, 
 The falls of St. Anthony, however, present attrac. 
 tionsofa different nature, and have a simplicity of 
 character which is very pleasing. We see nothing 
 in the view which may not be considered either rude 
 or picturesque, and perhaps there are few scenes in 
 the natural topography of our country, where these 
 features are blended with more harmony and effect. 
 It is in fact the precise point of transition, where 
 the beautiful prairies of the upper Mississippi, are 
 merged in the rugged Hme stone blutfs which skirt 
 the banks of the river from that point downward. — - 
 With this change of geological character, we per- 
 ceive a corresponding one, in the vegetable produc- 
 tions, and the eye embraces at one view, the copses 
 of oak upon the prairies, and the cedars and pines 
 which characterize the calcareous blufls. Nothing 
 can exceed the beauty of the prairies which skirt 
 both banks of the river above the falls. They do not, 
 however, consist of an unbroken plain, but are di- 
 versified with gentle ascents and small ravines co- 
 vered with the most luxuriant growth of grass and 
 heath-dowers, interspersed with groves of oak, 
 which throw an air of the most picturesque beauty 
 over the scene.
 
 291 
 
 It is probable, too, that during the high floods of 
 the Mississippi in the spring and fall, this cataract 
 attains a character of sublimity, from the increased 
 volume and tumult of the water, and the inundation" 
 of the accumulated debris, which presents, at this 
 season, so rugged an aspect. It is said, also, that this 
 accession of water produces a cloud of spray which 
 must take away a certain nakedness in the appear- 
 ance of the falls, that will strike every visitor who 
 has previously enjoyed the sight of the Niagara. 
 
 The European name of these falls is due to fa- 
 ther Lewis Hennepin, a French missionary of the 
 order of Recollects, who first visited them in 1680. 
 The Indian name in the Narcotah, or Sioux language, 
 is Oivah-Menah, or the falling water. 
 
 At the east side of the river, close under the 
 sheet of the principal column of water, the Indians 
 procure a kind of clay of a brownish red colour 
 with which they paint their canoes and baskets. It 
 appears to be an aluminous substance very much 
 jnixed with iron pyrites in a state of decomposition, 
 and penetrated with vegetable juices. It is found 
 in a crevice about ten feet below the water, and 
 they pretend that it is renewed when taken away. 
 
 The length of the portage around the falls, as 
 measured by Lieutenant Pike in 1305, is two hun- 
 dred and sixty poles, but in high water is somewhat 
 less. The width of the river on the brink of the 
 fall is stated at two hundred and twenty -seven yards, 
 but narrows to two hundred and nine yards a short 
 distance below, where the river is compressed be- 
 tween opposing ledges of rock. 
 
 We completed the portage of our canoes and bag- 
 gage at half past one, and descending the river nine
 
 292 
 
 miles, reached the American garrison at St. Peter's 
 at three, and were received with a national salute. — • 
 The spot which it is proposed to fortify is a high bluff 
 at the junction of the river St. Peter's with the Mis- 
 sissippi — a spot which commands the navigation of 
 both rivers, and appears capable of being rendered 
 impregnable with little expense. It is in fact the 
 same point of land which first suggested to Lieuten- 
 ant Pike the idea of its being an eligible situation 
 for a fort, and led to its subsequent purchase from the 
 Sioux Indians. This purchase was effected at a 
 treaty* held by Lieut. Pike in September, 1805, by 
 which they cede to the United States the district of 
 country from the junction of the St. Peter's with 
 the Mississippi, to the falls of St. Anthony inclusive, 
 and extending nine miles on each side of the river. 
 The consideration for this grant was two thousand 
 
 * The following is (he Treaty alluded to : 
 
 At a conference held between the United States of America 
 and the Sioux nation of Indians : lieutenant Z. M. Pike, of the 
 army of the United States, and the chiefs and the warriors of 
 s;tid tribe, have agreed to the following articles, which, when 
 ratified and approved of by the proper authority, shall be binding 
 on both parties. 
 
 Art. 1. That the Sioux nation grant unto the United States, 
 for the purpose of establishment of military posts, nine miles square 
 at the mouth of the St. Croix,* also from below the confluence o( 
 the Mississippi and St. Peter's up the Mississippi to include the 
 falls of St. Anthony, extending nine miles on each side of the 
 river, that the Sioux nation grants to the United States the full 
 sovereignty and power over said district for ever. 
 
 Art. 2. That, in consideration of the above grants, the United 
 States shall pay (filled up by the senate with 2000 dollars.^ 
 
 Abt. 3. The United States promise, on their part, 'to permit 
 
 • My demand was one league below : their reply was u from below."— » 
 I imagine (without iniquity) they may be made to agree;
 
 293 
 
 dollars. It could hardly have been anticipated at 
 that time, when there were probably not more than 
 a hundred American families in the extensive re- 
 gion now composing the states of Indiana, Illinois, 
 and Missouri, that in the short space of thirteen 
 years the progress of our settlements would have 
 demanded the occupancy of a post in so remote a 
 section of the union. Yet it was loudly called for 
 even within that time, as a protection to the defence- 
 less settlers on our northwestern and southwestern 
 frontiers — and as a check to the undue influence 
 which the British traders have too long exercised 
 over the Indian tribes inhabiting the territories of 
 the United States. Yielding to this expression of 
 the public voice, the government determined to es- 
 tablish a garrison at St. Peter's. The force desig- 
 nated to accomplish this object consisted of three 
 hundred men of the sixth regiment of infantry un- 
 der the orders of Colonel Leavenworth, who had 
 distinguished himself as commandant of the ninth 
 
 the Sioux to pass and repass, hunt, or make other use of the said 
 districts as they have formerly done without any other exception 
 than those specified in article first. 
 
 In testimony whereof we, the undersigned, have 
 hereunto set our hands and seals, at the mouth 
 of the river St. Peter's, on the 23d day of 
 September, 1805. 
 
 %. M. Pike, 1st lieut. (L. S.) 
 
 and agent at the above conference, 
 his 
 Le Petit Cobbeau, X (L. S.) 
 mark 
 his 
 Way Ago Enagee, X (L. S.) 
 
 mark. 
 
 %
 
 294 
 • 
 and twenty-second regiments in the battle of Chip- 
 peway.* They left Detroit in the spring of 18J9, 
 and proceeding by the way of Green Bay and the 
 Fox and Ousconsing rivers entered the Mississippi 
 at Prairie du Chien, where they left a detachment to 
 erect a garrison, and proceeding up the river reach- 
 ed the mouth of the St. Peter's in season to com- 
 plete their cantonements before the commencement 
 of winter. They first located themselves on the 
 rich bottomlands which extend along the south bank 
 of the St. Peter's, but not finding it a healthy situa- 
 tion, removed in the spring of 1820, to an eminence 
 on the west bank of the Mississippi, a mile distant 
 from the old cantonement — a situation which is 
 extremely pleasant and salubrious, and where they 
 will remain until the permanent works are comple- 
 ted upon the bluff at* the junction of the twc^rivers. 
 Since their arrival, the garrison have cleared and 
 put under cultivation about ninety acres of the 
 choicest bottom and prairie lands, which is chiefly 
 planted with Indian corn and potatoes ; besides a 
 large hospital — a Tegmental, and several company, 
 and private gardens, which supply vegetables in great 
 abundance for all the men. Here we were first pre* 
 sented with green corn, pease, beans, cucumbers, 
 beets, radishes, lettuce, &c. The first green pease 
 were eaten here on the 15th of June, and the first 
 green corn on the 20th of July. Much of the corn 
 is already too hard to be boiled for the table, and 
 some ears can be selected which are ripe enough 
 for seed corn. We found the wheat entirely ripe, 
 and melons nearly so. These are the best com- 
 mentaries that can be offered upon the soil and cli- 
 
 ' b-'eo Fay's Ealtles, page 215.
 
 295 
 
 mate. To ascertain, however, that the former is of 
 the richest quality, a cursory examination is only 
 required. It presents all the peculiar appearances 
 which characterize the fertile alluvions of the valley 
 of the Ohio. In favour of the climate all the offi- 
 cers of the garrison speak in terms of the highest 
 admiration. The atmosphere is represented as 
 beautifully serene and transparent during the sum- 
 mer season, and free from that humidity which pro- 
 duces haziness and opacity; and although the mete- 
 orological registers* of the garrison indicate a high 
 atmospheric temperature, it is observed that the 
 fervour of the heat is greatly mitigated by the al- 
 most continual currents of the air, which prevent 
 the weather from becoming sultry or oppressive. It 
 is probable, however, that this effect is in some 
 measure owing to the eligible situation of the garri- 
 son, at an elevation of about one hundred and fifty 
 feet above the Mississippi river. The latitude of 
 St. Peter's is 45°. — . — . 
 
 LXIX. Day.— {July 31 st)— The river St. Peter's 
 flows through the centre of the Sioux territories, 
 
 * It is rendered the duty of the Post-Surgeons at the frontier 
 garrisons to keep a meteorological register of the weather, and to 
 transmit abstracts of it, periodically, to the War Department. — 
 With a view of comparing the results with my own observations, 
 and of drawing some general conclusions, with regard to the cli- 
 mate of St. Peter's, 1 called on Doctor P 11 @f the garrison and 
 
 requested permission to copy his register, but regret that he did 
 not think proper to assent without an injunction that it should not 
 be made public. Is there any thing in the state of the weather at 
 St. Peter's, of so much importance to the government, as to re- 
 quire secrecy ? I am satisfied that gentlemen of the medical pro- 
 fession in the United States do not often subject themselves to the 
 imputation of narrow-mindedness or illiberality.
 
 296 
 
 and is both the largest and the least known, of all 
 the tributaries of the upper Mississippi. It has ne- 
 ver been explored except by voyageurs and traders? 
 whose whole attention has been directed to the col- 
 lection of peltries from the aborigines, and remains 
 to this moment, undescribed in American geography. 
 All, however, who have been questioned on the 
 subject, both Indians and traders, agree in saying, 
 that it is a long stream, made up of a great many 
 tributaries, and flowing in its whole extent through 
 a country of the most luxuriant fertility and delight- 
 ful appearance. Carver ascended it two hundred 
 miles, and found it to preserve in that distance, a 
 uniform width of about one hundred yards, with a 
 great depth of water, and represents its southern 
 fork as originating very near the banks of the Mis- 
 souri, and its northern, in a district of highlands 
 called the Shining Mountains. ;; These mountains" 
 he observes, " take their name from an infinite num- 
 ber of crystal "Stones of an amazing size, with which 
 they are covered ; and which when the sun shinet 
 full upon them, sparkle so as to be seen at a very 
 great distance." After the most diligent enquiry, 
 1 have not been able to procure any information con- 
 cerning these mountains, or their crystalline pro- 
 ductions. To the first tributary of the St. Peter's on 
 the northern bank, falling in forty miles above its 
 mouth, Carver gave his own name, which I have 
 adopted upon th£ chart of our track. The other 
 tributary most known is the Terre Bleu, or Blue- 
 earth river, which flows in from the south, a hun- 
 dred miles west of the Mississippi, by a mouth of 
 fifty yards in width. It is chiefly noted for the blue 
 clay which the Indians procure upon its banks, and
 
 297 
 
 which is much employed in painting their faces and 
 other parts of their bodies. The locality of this 
 substance, as communicated by the Indians to Go- 
 vernor Cass, is the declivity of a hill one hundred 
 and twenty feet in height, in the rear of the village 
 of Sissitongs, one mile above its confluence with the 
 St. Peter's. It is found at the foot of a sand stone 
 bluff, between two strata of the rock, in a vein about 
 fifteen inches in thickness. They have dug under it, so 
 far as a man can go leaving out his legs. The vein 
 does not extend far up and down the river. It is eleva- 
 ted about twenty feet above the level of the waters 
 of the river, during the highest floods. Three miles 
 below this, on the St. Peter's, there is a vein of 
 green clay, of similar size, and situated between 
 layers of the same kind of rock. About half way 
 up a perpendicular bluff of rock, (they say) there is 
 a breajs or platform, fifty feet broad, with a spring 
 running over it. The clay is found where this spring 
 issues from the rock, and is abundant. I procured 
 specimens of both these varieties of clay. They 
 appear to present alumine in combination with sub- 
 stances with which it has not heretofore been observ- 
 ed. They are considerably mixed with sand, and dry 
 in the air without a disposition to crack in the man- 
 ner of common clays. This is probably owing to 
 the admixture of sand, which by rendering the mass 
 porous in a higher degree, allows it to part with its 
 moisture with greater rapidity. The two varieties 
 only differ in the intensity of colour, one being a 
 light green, the other partaking somewhat of blue. 
 The colouring matter appears to be carbonat of cop- 
 per. These clays possess all the plasticity of com- 
 
 38
 
 2:w 
 
 mon clajs when iirst taken up, and acquire a c6f> 
 siderable degree of hardness, on drying. The St 
 Peter's also, affords a red paint, which is very much 
 employed by the Sioux. This is procured at a spot 
 called the Big Stone, at the extreme head of the 
 river. A large spring rises from a level dry plain, 
 and a few feet beyond it, this paint is found. They 
 take it up with the point of a knife. The stratum is 
 about eight inches thick, but just below the surface 
 is mixed with common earth. It is perfectly dry, 
 and void of all adhesive properties. The opening 
 where the paint is procured, is about ten feet in di- 
 ameter. It has long been resorted to, and they pre- 
 tend that the quantity is annually renewed. The 
 spring is fifteen or twenty feet in diameter, the wa- 
 ter good, and rises in great abundance. The same 
 substance is found at a tew other places e« an ad- 
 joining prairie. This red paint, proves to be the 
 native red oxide of iron, in one of its most pure and 
 beautiful forms. By sifting it, and grinding the 
 powder in oil, it would prove a valuable and dura- 
 ble pigment, and its preparation may hereafter be- 
 come an object, in the commerce of the region. 
 
 There is also found upon some parts of this river 
 a white clay, which has been thought proper for the 
 manufacture of fine porcelain, but it appears to be 
 entirely different from the Petuntz of the Chinese, 
 or the porcelain earth of Limoges, or Monekton.— 
 The latter proceed from the decomposition ot 
 graphic granite which is mostly composed of feld- 
 spar, and occur in dry, white, friable masses, without 
 any of that pasticity which distinguishes the classes 
 of common clays. But the white clay of St. Peter's, 
 
 is very adhesive, and resembles the colourless clays 
 
 ^1
 
 299 
 
 .^f the Rhine, which are employed in the lining of fur- 
 naces where an intense decree of heat is required, 
 and in the fabrication of chemical, and other cruci- 
 bles. The specimens which I procured, are veined a 
 little with red. It may prove valuable in the mani- 
 pulations of the glass-maker. 
 
 This river has long been noted as the locality of 
 that beautiful red stone of which the Indians manu- 
 facture the bowls of their pipes, but after all that 
 has been said on the subject, by Carver,Breckenridge 9 
 and others, it does not appear that it is found upon 
 the immediate banks of this stream. The quarry 
 is situated in the prairie country intermediate be- 
 tween the St. Peter's and the Sioux river of the 
 Missouri. It is said that the stratum does not ex- 
 ceed a foot in thickness, and that it is found two or 
 three feet below the soil. The Indians go, once a 
 year to procure their supplies, and as it has been re- 
 sorted to for a very long period, the excavations are 
 said to be extensive, and if the accounts are to be 
 relied on, cover an area of fifty acres. This stone 
 is a red steatite, intermediate in its qualities, between 
 the common soap-stone and serpentine. It yields 
 very readily to the knife when first taken from the 
 quarry, and as it has no grit, may be sawed without 
 injury to a common hand saw, but it acquires a de- 
 gree of hardness by long exposure to the air. It will 
 not take a polish by the processes pursued in our 
 marble-yards, as I have ascertained by submitting a 
 piece of the stone to the experiment, but the Indian 
 pipes assume a glossy appearance after long use. — 
 A considerable degree of skill is manifested by the 
 Indians in cutting their pipes, and the form and di- 
 mensions are regulated by a scrupulous regard to
 
 300 
 
 fashion. The bowls are invariably an inverted cone 
 with a massy projection from the small end for re- 
 ceiving the stem, as represented by figure 4th in 
 plate 2d. This part of the pipe is generally orna- 
 mented with carved work, and surmounted with a 
 kind of comb. The stem consists of wood, and is 
 usually from three to four feet in length by two or 
 three inches in breadth and shaved down thin, so as 
 to resemble a spatula. This stem is highly orna- 
 mented with porcupine quills, of various colours, 
 neatly braided in bands and checquer-work with the 
 exception of a small part on each end, which is left 
 to be painted over with green or blue clay. (See 
 fig. 8. plate II.) Pipe stems of this kind are appro- 
 priated to the chiefs, and are carefully laid aside for 
 high days of ceremony and feasting, and are pre- 
 sented to the agents of government, as tokens of 
 their sincerity, at all public conferences. There is 
 another kind of stem which is peculiar to the com- 
 mon warriors or soldiers, and consists of a perfora- 
 ted rod profusely ornamented with stained horse 
 hair, eagle's quills, and the beautiful green feathers 
 taken from the head and neck of the wild duck. — 
 (See fig. 9. plate II ) 
 
 "A little way," says Carver, "from the mouth of 
 the St. Peter's, on the north side of it, stands a hill 
 one part of which, that towards the Mississippi, is 
 composed entirely of white stone, of the same soft 
 nature as that 1 have before described, for such 
 indeed is all the stone of this country : but what ap- 
 pears remarkable is, that the colour of it is as white 
 as the driven snow. The outward part of it is crum- 
 bled by the weather into heaps of sand, of which a 
 beautiful composition might be made ; or, I am of opin-
 
 & 
 
 301 
 
 on, that when properly treated, the stone itself would 
 row harder by time, and have a very noble effect 
 in architecture." The rock here alluded to, is a 
 white sand stone, which is first seen on descending 
 the river, at the falls of St. Anthony, and forms the 
 imposing bluffs on each side of the river from that 
 point to the vicinity of the village of La Petit Cor- 
 beau, a distance of thirty-five miles. It is overlayed 
 by a stratum of secondary lime stone, containing pe- 
 trified concholites, and attaining, altogether, an el- 
 evation of about two hundred feet above the river. 
 On the top of this bluff, at a spot directly opposite 
 the site of the proposed fortification at St. Peter's, 
 a singular formation of native copper has recently 
 been discovered. It consists of small pieces of this 
 metal, from half an ounce to a pound in weight, scat- 
 tered over a natural hillock of small water-worn peb- 
 bles, or river-gravel. This is covered by a deposit 
 of ash-like earth of a foot in thickness and tapering 
 away very gradually towards the edge of the hillock. 
 Then succeeds a deposit of six feet in thickness, of 
 common alluvial soil, in which large fragments of 
 lime stone, quartz, and hornblende, are plentifully 
 imbedded, and lastly, a stratum of rich black allu- 
 vion without any imbedded substances, and appa- 
 rently composed, in a great measure, of decayed 
 leaves and other vegetable matter. This is eighteen 
 inches in depth, and forms the surface of the coun- 
 try which is a kind of open highland prairie, covered 
 with grass, and scattering oaks. Being told of this 
 discovery by some of the officers of the garrison, by 
 whom it was first noticed in quarrying stone for 
 chimnies, I visited the spot, and made a minute ex- 
 amination of appearances, and in the course of a
 
 302 
 
 short time found a number of specimens of the cop- 
 per at the spot indicated. They were all enveloped 
 with a green oxide. 
 
 The river St. Peter's enters the Mississippi behind 
 a large island which is probably three miles in cir- 
 cumference, and is covered with the most luxuriant 
 growth of sugar maple, elm, ash, oak, and walnut. — 
 At the point of embouchure it is one hundred and 
 fifty yards in width, with a depth of ten or fifteen 
 feet. Its waters are transparent, and present a light 
 blue tint on looking upon the stream. Hence the 
 Indian name of Waie-paw-mene-Sauta, or Clear-wa- 
 ter-river. Among the forest trees upon its banks we 
 noticed the box-elder (acer negundo) or ash-leaved 
 maple. The inner bark of this tree, boiled down 
 with the common nettle into a strong decoction, is 
 said to be used by the Indians as a remedy for lues 
 venerea, and to be a sovereign cure for that disor- 
 der. 
 
 There is a mineral spring, in a deep ravine, a 
 mile northwest of the new cantonement. It depo- 
 sits a yellow earthy substance in great abundance 
 upon the stones and sticks of wood over which it 
 passes. The water appears to be impregnated with 
 iron and sulphur. Another similar but less copious 
 spring is found on the banks of the Mississippi very 
 near the cantonement. It is not, however, so highly 
 charged with chalybeate properties. 
 
 Among the luxuriant herbage which character- 
 izes the prairies of St. Peter's, is found a species of 
 aromatic grass, upon which a high value is set by 
 < he aborigines. It throws off the most fragrant odour, 
 and retains its sweetness, in a considerable degree, in 
 tjje dried state. Jt is cut in a particular stage of jtt
 
 303 
 
 growth in the month of June, when it throws oft' ife 
 aroma most profusely, and continues to be gathered 
 until it has run into seed, and is too dry to be plait- 
 ed. The Indian women braid it up in a very inge- 
 nious manner and lay it aside in their cabins, as a 
 kind of nostrum, and 1 have once seen it in the form 
 of a wreath braided with certain leaves and flowers, 
 decorating the temples of a warrior who had just 
 returned in triumph from battle. Whether this 
 grass is the same with the heracleum pauaces of 
 Kamschatka, and of which the inhabitants distil an 
 intoxicating liquor, similar in some respects to bran- 
 dy, 1 am unable to determine. It appears proba- 
 ble it may possess some properties in common with 
 the holcus fragrans of Pursh. 
 
 Sir Francis Drake in his first visit to the Gulf of 
 California, in 1587, found there a small burrowing 
 animal which he describes with " a head like a co- 
 me, the feet of a mole, and the tail of a rat, with a 
 pouch under each cheek." It appears to be the same 
 animal which is here known by the name of the 
 gopher, and which, so far as my reading extends, 
 remains und escribed in zoological works, 1 had 
 previously noticed the ravages of this animal in the 
 prairies of Arkansas, ploughing up in some instan- 
 ces entire fields, and mentioned it in my remarks 
 upon the Missourian mines, but owing to its extreme 
 shyness, could never obtain a sight of the animal. — 
 We were here, however, gratified, through the po- 
 liteness of Col. Leavenworth, who directed a couple 
 of soldiers to exert themselves in procuring one. 
 It is about ten inches long from the nose to the in- 
 sertion of the tail, with a body shaped very much 
 like that of a large wharf-rat, which it also resem-
 
 304 
 
 bles in the colour of its hair and the length and nu- 
 dity of its tail. Its legs are short, and each foot 
 furnished with five long and sharp claws. It has 
 two large fore teeth in each jaw, resembling those 
 of the squirrel, but its most remarkable character 
 is a pouch on each side of the jaw formed by a du- 
 plicature of the skin of the cheek. These project 
 inwardly, where they are accommodated by an un- 
 usual width, and flattening out of the head. As the 
 animal lives wholly under ground, like the mole, 
 these pouches serve the purpose of bags for carry- 
 ing the earth out of their holes. They are filled 
 with the fore claws, and emptied at the mouth of the 
 hole by a power which it possesses of ejecting the 
 pouches from each cheek, in the manner that a cap 
 or stocking is turned. In this way it works its path 
 under ground, and ploughs up the prairies in many 
 places in such a manner, that the white hunters of 
 Missouri and Arkansas frequently avail themselves 
 of the labours of the gopher by planting corn upon 
 the prairies which have been thus mellowed. It 
 lives entirely upon the roots of plants eating all with 
 indiscriminate voracity, and has been found partic- 
 ularly destructive to beets, carrots, and other tap- 
 rooted plants in the military gardens at St. Peter's. 
 
 LXX. Day. — (dugust 1st.) — A treaty of peace 
 was this day concluded between the Sioux and Chip- 
 peways in the presence of Governor Cass, Colonel 
 Leavenworth, Mr. Tallifierro, the Indian agent at 
 St. Peter's, and a number of the officers of the gar- 
 rison. These two nations have been at war from the 
 earliest times, and the original causes of it are en- 
 tirely forgotten, but still the ancient enmity is care-
 
 305 
 
 fully transmitted from father to son. It is supposed 
 to have arisen from a dispute respecting the limits of 
 their territories, and favourite hunting grounds, but 
 if so, nothing was agreed upon in the present in- 
 stance to obviate the original causes of enmity. It 
 was only stipulated that hostilities should immediately 
 cease on both sides. Several of the chiefs delivered 
 their opinions upon the subject, and the Sioux ap- 
 peared to manifest some indifference to the treaty, 
 but finally consented to drop the hatchet ; and the^ 
 ceremony concluded with smoking the pipe of 
 peace and shaking hands. In this nearly every in- 
 dividual present united. The Sioux who attended 
 the council were numerous, having been gathering 
 in from the different villages from the time of our ar- 
 rival ; on the part of the Chippeways there were on- 
 ly present the deputies who accompanied us for that 
 purpose from the sources of the Mississippi. The 
 conduct of the latter, on our approach to St. Peter's, 
 manifested the anxiety they felt on the subject, at 
 the same time that it reveals a new trait in the char- 
 acter and customs of the Indian tribes. During the 
 first two or three days after our departure from San- 
 dy Lake, they proceeded very much at their ease, 
 sometimes ahead of the expedition, at others in the 
 rear — very seldom with us, and at night they usual- 
 ly encamped by themselves three or four hundred 
 yards off: But the moment we entered the Sioux 
 territories, they made it a point to keep close with, 
 the expedition, never venturing ahead, or lagging 
 much in the rear, and at night they formed their en- 
 campment in the midst of ours. As we approached 
 file falls of St. Anthony they requested of Governor 
 
 39
 
 30b 
 
 Cass, a ilag for their canoe, -which was granted, anc: 
 during the whole of that day they kept a peace-pipe 
 hoisted on the bow of their canoe. When we em- 
 barked below the falls of St. Anthony, they com- 
 menced beating upon their drum, singing, whoop- 
 ing, and frequently firing into the air, increasing the 
 tumult as we came near to the fort, that the Sioux 
 might be advertised of their approach ; but the prin- 
 cipal object of these ceremonies was to let their en- 
 emies know, that they came unto their territories up- 
 on a mission of peace — openly and boldly — and ex- 
 pected to be received by them with sentiments of 
 corresponding liberality, frankness, and concilia- 
 tion. Nor were they disappointed; they were taken 
 by the hand in a friendly manner by those Sioux who 
 had collected on our first landing at the garrison, 
 and the pipe of peace immediately smoked between 
 them, and this ceremony continued as fast as the 
 Sioux arrived, so that the object of the public trea- 
 ty held at the department of the Indian agent, 
 where these ceremonies were repeated, was more 
 with a view of having it witnessed by the agents of 
 the United States, than to render binding upon 
 their respective tribes, a pacification which had al- 
 ready been privately and individually determined 
 upon. It has, however, been mentioned, that there 
 was some indifference manifested to this treaty on 
 the part of the Sioux, and those chiefs and warriors 
 who discovered this unconquerable spirit of animos- 
 ity, could not be induced to smoke the pipe of peace, 
 although the cessation of hostilities had their tacit 
 consent. Whether the peace will prove a perma- 
 nent one, may be doubted. All their ancient preju- 
 dices will urge them to a violation of it, while past
 
 307 
 
 experience abundantly shews how difficult it has 
 been to preserve a lasting peace between two pow- 
 erful rival tribes of savages, whose predominant dis- 
 position is war, and if a durable peace should result 
 from the laudable exertions of the agents of govern- 
 ment in effecting this pacific conference, it will pro- 
 bably be owing in a great measure to a continuance 
 of those exertions, supported as they are, by the in- 
 fluence of the garrisons at St. Peter's, Prairie du 
 Chien, Council Bluffs, Green Bay, and other mi- 
 nor posts along our extensive Indian frontiers. In 
 1803, a treaty of peace was concluded between the 
 Sioux and Chippeways at the instance of Lieuten- 
 ant Pike. It continued as long as he remained 
 among them. In the fall of 1 1318, a pacification took 
 place at St. Louis under the auspices of Governor 
 Clark, between the Osages and the Cherokees. The 
 latter renewed hostilities before they reached their 
 homes. This only proves, that treaties of peace be- 
 tween Indian tribes, like those between civilized na- 
 tions, only amount to a momentary cessation of hos- 
 tilities, unless the limits of their territories, and oth- 
 er subjects of dispute, are accurately defined, and 
 satisfactorily settled. 
 
 The numerical strength of the Sioux nation was 
 stated by the late General Pike at 21,6/5, three 
 thousand eight hundred of whom are warriors. This 
 is the most powerful Indian tribe in North America. 
 It consists of seven bands, namely, the Minokan- 
 tongs, the Yengetongs,theSissitongs,the Wahpetongs, 
 the Titongs, the Mendewacantongs, and the Wash- 
 pecoutongs. These are independent bands, under 
 their own chiefs, but united in a confederacy for the 
 protection of their territories, and send deputies to
 
 308 
 
 a general council of the chiefs and warriors when- 
 ever the concerns of their nation require it. If one 
 of the tribes is attacked, the others are expected 
 to assist in the repulsion of the enemy. They in- 
 habit all the country between the Mississippi and 
 Missouri rivers, from north latitude about 46° to 
 the junction of these rivers near St. Louis, with tri- 
 fling exceptions in favour of some scattered bands of 
 Foxes, Sacs, and Kickapoos. Their country also 
 extends south of the Missouri, where the principal 
 part of the Titongs reside, and east of the Missis- 
 sippi to the territories of the Chippeways — the Win- 
 nebagoes, and the Menomonies. The greatest 
 chief of the nation, at present, is Talangamane, or 
 the Red wing. 
 
 The Minokantongs, or people of the waters, are 
 located at St. Peters, and along the banks of the 
 Mississippi towards Prairie du Chien. They reside 
 in four principal villages, distinguished by the names 
 of their respective chiefs; Chatawaconamie, or La 
 Petit Corbeau — Talangamane, or the Red wing — 
 Tatamane, or the wind-that-walks, and Wabashaw. 
 
 The Yengetongs and the Sissitongs inhabit the up- 
 per parts of the river St. Peters, and are sometimes 
 called the Sioux of the Plains. Their traffic is prin- 
 cipally in Buffalo robes. The first chief is Muck- 
 peanutah, or the Red Cloud. The Wahpetongs, or 
 people of the Leaves, are the most erratic in their 
 dispositions of all the Sioux. They inhabit the St. 
 Peters between the Prairie De Francois and the 
 White Rock, during a part of the year, and general- 
 ly go out to hunt above the falls of St. Anthony to- 
 wards the sources of the river De Corbeau, and up- 
 on the plains which give origin to the Crow, Sac,
 
 309 
 
 und Elk rivers. Their principal chief is Wakunska, 
 or the Rolling Thunder. 
 
 The Titongs inhabit both banks of the Missouri, 
 and rove in quest of game over an immense extent 
 of country. They are said to be related to the Ma- 
 has, and some other bands south of the Missouri. 
 
 The Mendewacantongs, or people of the Medicine 
 Lake, — the Washpecoutongs, or people of the 
 Leaves who have ran away, and some other scattered 
 bands whose names are unknown, inhabit the coun- 
 try generally, from the St. Peter's south to the mouth 
 of the Missouri, and arc chiefly located upon the 
 sources of the rivers Ocano, Iowa, and Desmoines. 
 
 The Sioux are generally represented as a brave, 
 spirited, and generous people, with proud notions 
 of their origin as a tribe, and their superiority as 
 hunters and warriors, and with a predominant pas- 
 sion for war. They speak the Narcotah language, 
 which is peculiar to themselves, and appears to have 
 little affinity with any other Indian tongue. It is not 
 so soft and sonorous as the Algonquin which abounds 
 in labials, but more so, than the Winnebago, which 
 is the most harsh and gutteral language in America. 
 The Narcotah sounds to an English ear, like the 
 Chinese, and both in this, and other respects, the 
 Sioux are thought to present many points of coinci- 
 dence. It is certain that their manners and customs 
 differ essentially from those of any other tribe, and 
 their physiognomy, as well as their language, and 
 opinions, mark them as a distinct race of people. — 
 Their sacrifices and their supplications to the un- 
 known God — their feasts after any signal deliver- 
 ance from danger — their meat, and their burnt of- 
 ferings — the preparation of incense, and certain cits
 
 toms of their females, offer too striking a coinci- 
 dence with the manners of the Asiatic tribes before 
 the commencement of the christian era, to escape 
 observation, while their paintings and hieroglyphics 
 bear so much analogy to those of the Azteeks of Mex- 
 ico, as to render it probable that the latter are of 
 Naudowessian origin. But these hints are merely 
 thrown oat for the investigation of the future enqui- 
 rer, as my limited opportunities of observation, and 
 the short period of our sojournment among them, 
 forbid any thing like systematic research, which is 
 the more to be regretted as this tribe has recently 
 assumed a more interesting attitude with respect to 
 the United States, and as the time for conducting 
 these enquiries with any probability of success, is 
 rapidly receding under the pressure of an enter- 
 prizing European population. It is to be hoped 
 that some spirited traveller, possessed of the ne- 
 cessary qualifications, will select their territories as 
 the theatre of his researches, and I doubt not, that he 
 would find more among them to elucidate the origin 
 and history of the aborigines of our country, than 
 among any other tribe upon the continent. 
 
 " From my knowledge of the Sioux nation," ob- 
 serves Lieutenant Pike, "I do not hesitate to pro- 
 nounce them the most warlike and independent na- 
 tion of Indians within the boundaries of the United 
 States, their every passion being subservient to that 
 of war; but at the same time their traders feel them- 
 selves perfectly secure of any combination being 
 made against them, but it is extremely necessary to 
 be careful not to injure the honour of an individual, 
 which is certainly the cause of the many broils which 
 occur between them. But never was a trader known
 
 311 
 
 to suffer in the estimation of the nation by resenting 
 any indignity offered him ; even if he went to taking 
 the life of the offender. Their gutteral pronuncia- 
 tion — high cheek bones — their visages, and distinct 
 manners, together with their own traditions, sup- 
 ported by the testimony of neighbouring nations, 
 put it in my mind beyond the shadow of a doubt, 
 that they have emigrated from the northwest point 
 of America, to which they had come across the 
 narrow streights, which in that quarter, divide the 
 two continents ; and are absolutely descendants of a 
 Tartarean tribe."* 
 
 As an instance of the generosity of this nation, 
 the following anecdote is related. La Petit Cor- 
 beau, chief of a small band of Sioux, located upon 
 the banks of the Mississippi, towards the confines of 
 the Chippeway territories, going out one morning to 
 examine his beaver trap, found a Sauteur in the act 
 of stealing it. He had approached without exciting 
 alarm, and while the Sauteur was engaged in taking 
 the trap from the water, he stood maturely survey- 
 ing him with a loaded rifle in his hands. As the two 
 nations were at war, and the offence was in itself one 
 of the most heinous nature, he would have been jus- 
 tified in killing him upon the spot, and the thief look- 
 ed for nothing else, on finding himself detected. But 
 the Sioux chief walking up to him discovered a no- 
 bleness of disposition which would have done hon- 
 our to the most enlightened of men. " Take no 
 alarm, said he, at my approach; I only come to pre- 
 sent to you the trap of which I see you stand in 
 need. You are entirely welcome to it. Take my gun 
 
 * Pike's Expeditions.
 
 312 
 
 also, as 1 perceive you have none of your ovn, and 
 depart with it to the land of your countrymen, but 
 linger not here, lest some of my young men who are 
 panting for the blood of their enemies, should dis- 
 cover your foot steps in our country, and fall upon 
 you." So saying, he delivered him his gun and ac- 
 coutrements, and returned unarmed to the village of 
 which he is so deservedly the chief. 
 
 There are several antique mounds and circumvalla- 
 tions upon the banks of the St. Peter's, which are said 
 to indicate an industrious population, and an intimate 
 acquaintance with geometrical solids, which are 
 still to be traced among the full-grown trees of the 
 forest which now overshadows these enigmatical 
 works. The most remarkable of these, are stated to 
 be about forty miles above the mouth of the St. Pe- 
 ter's, near the junction of that branch which is de- 
 nominated Carver's river. I regret that 1 can say 
 nothing concerning them from actual inspection. — 
 They are among the number of interesting traits, 
 the examination and description of which, would 
 so richly reward an exploration of this important 
 river. 
 
 About six miles west of the new cantonement 
 there are several beautiful little lakes, situated in 
 the prairies. They consist of the purest water and 
 are surrounded with a handsome beach of yellow 
 sand and water-worn pebbles, among which are to 
 be found fragments of the most highly coloured car- 
 nelians, and ribband agates. The largest of these 
 lakes is about four miles in circumference, and is 
 called Calhoun lake. It is stored with the most ex- 
 quisite flavoured black bass and several other vari- 
 eties of fish, and has become a fashionable resort
 
 313 
 
 tor the officers of the garrison. The intermediate 
 country is a prairie, and is travelled in all directions 
 on horseback. It is not, however, a level plain, but 
 consists of gentle slopes and ascents, and the clumps 
 of trees which are scattered over it, give a pleasing 
 variety to the scene. In the season of verdure, the 
 waving heath-grass, — the profusion of wild flowers, 
 and the sweet-scented Indian grass, while they fill 
 the air with a refreshing fragrance, delight the eye 
 with the richness and never-ending variety of their 
 colours; and viewed under the influence of a gentle 
 western breeze, which is seldom wanting, leave no- 
 thing to complete the picture of the most enchanting 
 rural beauty. 
 
 Among the animated productions of nature which 
 serve to enliven and diversify the scene, there is a 
 new species of burrowing squirrel, something larger 
 than the common striped ground squirrel, with an 
 elongated body and short legs, approaching in shape 
 the mustela nivalis, or brown weasel. But the most 
 strikingdifference is found in its colour, which is a red- 
 dish brown with four longitudinal black stripesupon 
 the back, spotted with yellow, and resembling in this 
 respect, the skin of the African leopard. It is a beau- 
 tiful little animal — burrows in the ground, and feeds 
 upon ground nuts and esculent roots. It has been 
 found destructive to the gardens at St. Peter's. 
 
 The temperature of the atmosphere, and the 
 changes of weather during the journey from Sandy 
 lake, are indicated by the following—' 
 
 40
 
 314 
 
 Meteorological Table. 
 
 1820. 
 
 A M | P. M 
 
 5| 7| 8| 2| 8| 9 
 
 Mean 
 temp 
 
 Winds. 
 
 WEATHER. 
 
 July 25 
 
 1 |71|85|74| 
 
 76 
 
 
 Fair. Rain at night. 
 
 - 26 
 
 61| | |8.|61| 
 
 67 
 
 S. W. 
 
 Mor. cloudy, with rain — fcv'n clear. 
 
 27 
 
 62| ( |8U|75| 
 
 72 
 
 
 Fair. 
 
 - 28 
 
 62| | |76|61| 
 
 66 
 
 
 Morn, fair — afternoon rain. 
 
 - 29 
 
 50| | |74|62| 
 
 62 
 
 
 Fair. Flying clouds. 
 
 - :30 
 
 IM |76| |63 
 
 66 
 
 N W. 
 W. 
 
 Fair. 
 
 - 31 
 
 Aug-. 1 
 
 |65| |8l| [69 
 
 72 
 
 -- 
 
 |67| |83|7,0| 
 
 7:i 
 
 w. 
 
 -- 
 
 1 8)554 1 
 
 69§ mean temperature. 

 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 J O U RJV E F, 
 
 FROM ST. PETER'S TO PRAIRIE DU CIIIEN. 
 
 LXXI. Day.— (August 2d) 
 
 liEAVING the mouth of the St. Peter's at nine 
 o'clock, we proceeded down the Mississippi thirty- 
 eight miles, and encamped at twilight upon the west 
 shore, nine leagues below the village of La Petit 
 Corbeau About twelve miles below the new garri- 
 son at St. Peter's, we stopped to examine a remarka- 
 ble Cavern on the east banks of the Mississippi, called 
 Wakon-teebe, by the Narcotah or Sioux Indians, but 
 which, in compliment to the memory of its first Eu- 
 ropean visitor, should be denominated Carver's 
 cave. It is situated in a rock of the most beautiful 
 white sand stone, at the head of a small valley about 
 four hundred yards from the banks of the river. Its 
 mouth is about sixty or seventy feet wide and twen- 
 ty in height, but the former soon decreases to about 
 twenty feet, and the latter to seven. This width 
 gradually lessens as you advance during the first 
 hundred yards, but the height remains nearly the 
 aame, so that a man can walk without stooping.— 
 Then it tapers into a narrow passage, where it is
 
 316 
 
 necessary to creep, which suddenly opens into a 
 spacious chamber. From this a narrow crevice 
 continues as far as it has been explored. Some of 
 our party pursued it four hundred yards by the light 
 of wax candles. It is very damp and chilly. There 
 is a handsome stream of pure water running from its 
 mouth. The temperature of the air in the cave was 
 54? — that of the water 47°. As it is situated in sand 
 stone rock, it affords no stalactites, or spars. Some 
 parts of the rock at the mouth are coloured green, 
 probably by the carbonat of copper. The bed of 
 the brook is composed of a crystalline sand of the 
 most snowy whiteness, originating from the disin- 
 tegration of the surrounding walls. Scattered over 
 this, are a number of small pebbles of so intensely 
 black a colour as to create a pleasing contrast, 
 when viewed through the medium of a clear stream. 
 These, on examination, proved to be masses of lime 
 stone, granite, and quartz, coloured externally by a 
 thin deposit of earthy matter, and I conclude the 
 colour to proceed from the gallic acid, with which 
 the water, percolating into the cavern, through the 
 beds of oak leaves of the superincumbent forest, 
 may be partially saturated. This cave has been 
 visited by most persons who have passed up the Mis- 
 sissippi, if we may judge from the number of names 
 found upon the walls. Among them we were inform- 
 ed was that of Captain Carver, who visited it in 1 768 r 
 but we did not observe it. His grant of land from 
 the Indians, is dated in this cave, but the cave it- 
 self, appears to have undergone a considerable al- 
 teration since that period, for he says that " about 
 twenty feet from the entrance begins a lake, the wa- 
 ter of which is transparent, and extends to an un-
 
 317 
 
 searchable distance." As the rock is of a very fria- 
 ble nature, and easily acted upon by running wa- 
 ter, it is probable that the lake has been discharg- 
 ed, thus enlarging the boundaries of the cave. He 
 also remarks, "At a little distance from this dreary 
 cavern, is the burying place of several bands of the 
 Nawdowessie (Sioux) Indians. Though these peo- 
 ple have no fixed residence, living in tents, and abi- 
 ding but a few months in one spot, yet they always 
 bring the bones of their dead to this place ; which 
 they take the opportunity of doing when the chiefs 
 meet to hold their councils, and to settle the public 
 affairs for the ensuing summer." We noticed no bones 
 or traces of interment about the cave, but perhaps 
 a further examination of the adjacent region would 
 have led to a discovery. 
 
 Four miles below Carver's cave, we landed at 
 the village of La Petit Corbeau, or the Little Raven. 
 Here is a Sioux band of twelve lodges, and consist- 
 ing of about two hundred souls, who plant corn up- 
 on the adjoining plain, and cultivate the cucumber, 
 and pumpkin. They sallied from their lodges on 
 seeing us approach, and gathering upon the bank of 
 the river fired a kind offeu-de-joie, and manifested the 
 utmost satisfaction on our landing. La Petit Cor- 
 beau was among the first to greet us. He is a man 
 below the common size, but brawny and well pro- 
 portioned, and although rising of fifty years of age, 
 retains the looks and vigour of forty. There is a 
 great deal of fire in his eyes which are black and 
 piercing — his nose is prominent and has the aquiline 
 curve, his forehead falling a little from the facial an- 
 gle, and his whole countenance animated, and ex- 
 pressive of a shrewd mind. We were conducted
 
 318 
 
 into his cabin which is spacious, being about sixty 
 feet in length by thirty in width— built in a perma- 
 nent manner of logs, and covered with bark. Be- 
 ing seated, he addressed Governor Cass in a speech 
 of some length, in which he expressed his satisfac- 
 tion on seeing him there, and said that in his exten- 
 sive journey he must have experienced a good ma- 
 ny hardships and difficulties, and seen a great deal 
 of the Indian way of living, and of the country — all 
 of which would enable him to see things in their 
 proper light. He said he was glad that the Govern- 
 or had not, like many other officers and agents of the 
 United Slates who had lately visited those regions, 
 passed by his village without calling. He particularly 
 alluded to the officers of the establishment at St. Pe- 
 ter's, and said they had generally passed upon the oth- 
 er side of the river. He observed that he had attend- 
 ed several councils at St. Peter's, and given away a 
 number of pipes, but got nothing in return. He ac- 
 quiesced in the treaty which had lately been conclu- 
 ded with the Chippeways, and was happy that 
 a stop had been put to the effusion of human blood. 
 He then adverted to a recent attack of a party of 
 Fox Indians upon some of their people towards the 
 sources of the river St. Peters, in which nine men 
 had been killed. He considered it a dastardly act, 
 and said if that little tribe, should continue to haunt 
 their territories in a hostile manner, they would at 
 length drive him into anger, and compel him to do a 
 thing he did not wish. These were the principal 
 topics of his speech ; some minor points were ad- 
 verted to, and he several times repeated his obliga- 
 tions for the honour of our visit. He spoke with de- 
 liberation, and without that wild gesticulation which
 
 319 
 
 is common among savages. Two or three other 
 persons afterwards spoke, but I was not struck with 
 any expressions of much point They repeated 
 several things that had before been said, and deliv- 
 ered pacific sentiments in the most furious manner. 
 
 While these things were going forward, the Indian 
 xvomen were busily engaged in gathering green corn, 
 and each one came into the centre of the chief's 
 cabin and threw a basket full upon a common pile, 
 which made a formidable appearance before the 
 speakers ceased, and it was absolutely necessary to 
 forbid their bringing more. This was intended as 
 a present, and we took away as much as we could 
 conveniently find storage for, in our canoes. 
 
 Our attention was now drawn off by the sounds of 
 Indian music which proceeded from another large 
 cabin at no great distance, but we found the doors 
 closed, and were informed that they were celebrating 
 an annual feast, at which only certain persons in the 
 village were allowed to be present, and that it was 
 not customary ever to admit strangers. Our curios- 
 ity, however, being excited, we applied to Govern- 
 or Cass to intercede for us, and were by that means 
 admitted. The first striking object presented was 
 two large kettles full of green corn, cut from the cob 
 and boiled. They hung over a moderate fire in the 
 centre of the cabin, and the Indians, both men and 
 women, were seated in a large circle around them. 
 They were singing a doleful song in the savage man- 
 ner, accompanied by the Indian drum, and gourd- 
 rattle. The utmost solemnity was depicted upon 
 every Countenance not engaged in singing, and 
 when the music ceased, which it frequently did for 
 a few seconds, there was a still and mysterious pause,
 
 320 
 
 during which certain pantomimic signs were made, 
 and it appeared as if they pretended to hold commu- 
 nication with invisible spirits. Suddenly the music 
 struck up, and the singing commenced, but as we 
 did not understand their language, it is impossible 
 to say what they uttered, or to whom their supplica- 
 tions or responses were addressed. In the course 
 of these ceremonies a young man and his sister, join- 
 ing hands, came forward towards the centre of the 
 cabin. We were told they were about to be admit- 
 ted to the rights of partaking of the feast, but there 
 was nothing striking in the ceremony, and all its in- 
 terest was lost to us, because we could not under- 
 stand the questions which were asked and the an- 
 swers given. The voice of every one appeared to 
 be taken in their admission, which was unanimous. 
 When this ceremony ceased, one of the elder In- 
 dians, dished out all the boiled corn into separate 
 dishes for as many heads of families as there were 
 present, putting an equal number of ladles full into 
 each dish. Then, while the music continued, they, 
 one by one, took up their dishes and retiring from the 
 cabin by a backward step, so that they still faced 
 the kettles, separated to their respective lodges, and 
 thus the ceremony ceased. We are told, however, 
 that several important things were omitted on ac- 
 count of our being present. From all that could be 
 learned, it was a feast in honour of the Cereal god- 
 dess, or manito, of the Indians, which is annually held 
 when the corn first becomes suitable for boiling in 
 the ear. 
 
 LXXII. Day. — {August 3d.) — We embarked at five 
 o'clock. On descending the river six miles, we
 
 321 
 
 passed the mouth of the river St. Croix, which en- 
 ters on the east shore by a channel of one hundred 
 yards in width. It is connected by a portage of two 
 pauses, with the Bois Brule river of Lake Superior, 
 and in its whole extent is not interrupted by a sin- 
 gle fall or rapid. It is said to be the most practica- 
 ble, easy, and expeditious water communication 
 between the Mississippi river and Lake Superior. — 
 About five hundred yards above its mouth, it ex- 
 pands into a lake, called Lake St. Croix, which is 
 thirty-six miles long, and from one and a half to 
 three in breadth. Sixty miles above the head of 
 this lake, the southwest company have an establish- 
 ment. The country around its mouth is claimed by 
 the Sioux; its sources are inhabited by a band of 
 Foille avoine Chippeways, and the Chippeways of 
 the Burnt woods. There is an island in the Mis- 
 sissippi opposite its junction. At this place, the river 
 bluffs assume an increased height, and more impo- 
 sing aspect, and in the course of the succeeding 
 fifty miles, we are presented with some of the most 
 majestic and pleasing scenery which adorns the 
 banks of the upper Mississippi. In many places 
 the calcareous blutfs terminate in pyramids of na- 
 ked rocks, which resemble the crumbling ruins of 
 antique towers, and aspire to such a giddy height 
 above the level of the water, that the scattered oaks 
 which cling around their rugged summits seem 
 dwindled to the most diminutive size; — at others, 
 the river is contracted between two perpendicular 
 walls of opposing rock, which appear to have been 
 sundered to allow it an undisturbed passage to the 
 ocean, and not unfrequently, these walls are half 
 
 41
 
 322 
 
 buried in their own ruins, and present a striking 
 example oi' the wasting etfects of time upon the cal- 
 careous strata of our planet. Sometimes, there is a 
 rock bluff on one bank, and an extensive plain of al- 
 luvion on the other, contrasting with the finest effect, 
 the barrenness of the mineral, with the luxuriant 
 herbage, and the rural beauty, of the vegetable 
 kingdom. Again, the hills recede from either shore, 
 and arc veiled in the azure tint of the distant land- 
 scape, while the river assumes an amazing width, 
 and is beautified with innumerable islands, and we 
 find ourselves at once bewildered between the infin- 
 ity of its channels, and the attractive imagery of its 
 banks. Nor is the presence of animated nature 
 wanting, to enrich and beautify the scene. The 
 deer is frequently seen standing in the cool currenl 
 of the stream, gathering the moss from the hidden 
 rocks below, or surveying our approach from the 
 grassy summit of the impending clitF, with an un- 
 concern, which tells us how little it is acquainted 
 with the sight of man. The whole tribe of water- 
 fowl ape found upon the river, ai*l by the variety of 
 their plumage, and their shapes — the wildness of 
 their notes — and the Happing of their wings, serve 
 to diversify the scene, while the well known notes of 
 the robin, and other singing birds upon the shores, 
 which are the same that we have listened to in child- 
 hood, recall a train of the most pleasing reflections, 
 Nor is the red man, the lord of the forest, wanting. 
 His cottage is disclosed by the curling smoke upon 
 the distant hills, where he surveys with a satisfied eye 
 the varied creation upon the plains below; — the 
 deer — the elk — the water fowl — the river which 
 floats his canoe — the trees which overshadow the
 
 323 
 
 grassy hills upon which he reposes during the heats 
 of noon — the thickets, where he arouses the sleep- 
 ing bear — the prairie, which gives vigour to his con- 
 stitution, and while he lifts his eye in gratitude to 
 the great spirit of life, for all these various bles- 
 sings, exclaims with the genuine poet of nature 
 
 " Creation's heir — the world — the world is mine. ,, 
 
 At twelve o'clock we arrived at the Sioux village 
 of Taiangamane, or the Red wing, which is hand- 
 somely situated on the west banks of the river, six 
 miles above Lake Pepin. It consists of four large, 
 and several small lodges, built of logs in the man- 
 ner of the little Raven's village. Taiangamane is 
 now considered the first chief of his nation, which 
 honour it is said he enjoys both on account of his 
 superior age and sagacity. He appears to be about 
 sixty, and bears all the marks of that age. Very 
 few of his people were at home, being engaged in 
 hunting or fishing. We observed several fine corn 
 fields near the village, but they subsist chiefly by 
 taking sturgeon in the neighbouring lake, and by 
 hunting the deer. The buffalo is also occasionally 
 killed, but they are obliged to go two days journey 
 west of the Mississippi, before this animal is found 
 in plenty. We observed several buffalo skins which 
 were undergoing the Indian process of tanning. — 
 The hair having been taken off in the manner of 
 dressing deer skins, the hides were stretched out 
 upon the ground and covered with a decoction of 
 oak and other bark, prepared by boiling the bits of 
 bark in water. A black colour was thus communi- 
 cated to the skin, and it is probable that sufficient
 
 324 
 
 of the astringent principle of the bark is thus made 
 to unite with the gluten of the skin, to give it, in some 
 degree, the properties of leather. The idea is 
 probably borrowed from their intercourse with the 
 frontier settlers, although the nearest tan-yard is 
 at St. Louis, eight hundred miles below. 
 
 Haifa mile east of Red wing's village there is an 
 isolated mountain, standing upon the brink of the 
 river, called the Grange, from the summit of which 
 you enjoy the most charming prospect. The im- 
 mense valley of the Mississippi, with the numerous 
 channels and islands of the river — the prairies and 
 forests — with the windings of a number of small 
 rivers which flow into the Mississippi, spread 
 like a map below the eye. The calcareous 
 bluffs which bound this valley, and terminate 
 the prospect towards the west, in a line of lofty 
 grey cliffs, throw an air of grandeur upon the scene, 
 which affords a pleasing contrast with the deep green 
 of the level prairies, and the silvery brightness of 
 the winding river. Turning the eye towards the 
 east, Lake Pepin spreads its ample sheet across the 
 entire valley of the river, from bluff to bluff, and 
 the indentures of its shores recede one behind an- 
 other, until they become too faint to be distinguish- 
 ed, and are terminated on the line of the horizon. 
 The altitude of this mountain cannot fall short of 
 eight hundred (cet above the bed of the river. It 
 presents an abrupt mural precipice towards the Mis- 
 sissippi, but slopes off gradually towards the south, 
 and is covered with grass, and afewscatteringoaks. 
 Its sides are strewed with beautiful crystals of vio- 
 let coloured, and radiated quartz, and with 
 masses of iron ore crystallized in cubes and octa-
 
 326 
 
 faedrons. A specimen of lead ore (galena) was also 
 shewn to us by one of Talangamane's people, and 
 a mine is reported to exist in the vicinity, but we 
 could procure no information which is to be relied 
 upon, concerning its situation and extent. 
 
 In ascending this mountain we first noticed the 
 rattlesnake, (crotahis horridus) which is found, how- 
 ever, as far north as the falls of St. Anthony, (north 
 latitude 45°.) One of the most remarkable facts in 
 the natural history of this dreadful animal, is, that 
 its poison may be taken internally without any dan- 
 ger. A spoonful, it is affirmed, may be swallowed 
 at a time, without producing any ill effects upon 
 the constitution. This, is the characteristic differ- 
 ence between animal and vegetable poisons. It is 
 well known that the virus of this animal is secreted 
 in a small cavity at the root of the fangs, which are 
 shaped like the claws of a cat, and are hollow, and 
 that it is ejected through these tubes at the instant 
 it inflicts the wound. It has been stated, on the 
 authority of Mr. Peale, proprietor of the Philadel- 
 phia museum, that an animal punctured with the 
 fangs of the rattlesnake, for years after they have 
 been taken out and dried, will produce almost instant 
 death, and that he employed acids and alkalies to 
 deprive them of this poisonous property, without 
 success. The poison of serpents is found to be 
 more virulent, and to operate with greater activity, in 
 warm, than in cold climates, nor is it equally fatal 
 to all animals. The hog, for instance, devours the 
 rattlesnake without danger, and is even said to 
 thrive and" fatten upon it. Charlevoix mentions a 
 plant, .which is an antidote to the bite of this 
 snak^, called the rattle snake plant (herbe a serpente
 
 326 
 
 a sonettes) which grows abundantly throughout this 
 country. " This plant," he remarks, " is beautiful 
 and easily known. Its stem is round and somewhat 
 thicker than a goose-quill, rising to the height of 
 three or four feet, and terminates in a yellow flower 
 of the figure and size of a yellow daisey. This 
 flower has a very sweet scent. The leaves of the 
 plant are oval, narrow, sustained, five and five, in 
 form of a turkey cock's foot, by a peduncle or foot 
 stalk an inch long." In another place, speaking of 
 the citron, he remarks " The root of this tree is a 
 mortal and most subtil poison, and at the same 
 time a most sovereign antidote against the bite of 
 serpents. It must be bruised and applied instantly 
 on the wound : this remedy is immediate and infalli- 
 ble." The plant alluded to in both instances, ap- 
 pears to be the common mandrake, or podophyllum 
 peltatum of modern botany. The poisonous pro- 
 perties of this plant are mentioned by another of 
 \ he elder travellers of the region, whose work hag 
 long since ceased to be quoted, the Baron La Hon- 
 tan, who says that the expressed juice of this plant 
 taken internally, produces instant death; and re- 
 lates an instance of an Iroquois woman, making use 
 of it on the disease of her husband. She soon fell 
 into shivering fits, and expired in his presence. 
 
 In our times the common plantain {plantago ma- 
 jor) has been frequently mentioned as an infallible 
 cure, both for the bite of the rattlesnake, and the 
 tarantula, or great black field spider; but I cannot 
 allude to any particular cases in which it has been 
 successfully applied. There is an old story, which 
 relates that the curative qualities of the plantain, in 
 cases of animal poison, was first discovered in the.
 
 327 
 
 following manner : An aged black man in one of the 
 southern states, being out in the field, happened to 
 witness a combat between the tarantula and a toad: 
 the latter appeared frequently to be vanquished, but 
 as often retreated to a stem of plantain* growing 
 near, and eating some of the leaves, returned to 
 the combat. Observing this, the plantain was pul- 
 led up, when the toad on returning, and finding it 
 taken away, immediately swelled up and died. This 
 gave the hint for applying it in cases of the bite of 
 venomous snakes, and the discoverer alluded to, ac- 
 quired celebrity for the cures he effected by the use 
 of it. Whether the Virginia snake-root, (aristolochia 
 serpentaria) is applied as an antidote to the poison 
 of serpents, I am unable to say. Ergotted rye, is 
 also among the number of simples, which have been 
 lately recommended in cases of the bite of the rat- 
 tlesnake. 
 
 At one o'clock in the afternoon we entered Lake 
 Pepin. This beautiful sheet of water is an expan- 
 sion of the Mississippi river, six miles below the 
 Sioux village of Talangamane, and one hundred be- 
 low the falls of St. Anthony. It is twenty-four miles 
 in length, with a width of from two to four miles, and 
 is indented with several bays, and prominent points, 
 which serve to enhance the beauty of the prospect. 
 On the east shore, there is a lofty range of limestone 
 bluffs, which are much broken and crumbled — some- 
 times run into pyramidal peaks — and often present 
 a character of the utmost sublimity. On the west, 
 there is a high level prairie, covered with the most 
 luxuriant growth of grass, and nearly destitute of 
 forest trees. From this plain several conical hills 
 ascend, which, at a distance, present the appear-
 
 323 
 
 ance of vast artificial mounds or pyramids, and it is 
 difficult to reconcile their appearance with the gen- 
 eral order of nature, by any other hypothesis. This 
 lake is beautifully circumscribed by a broad beach 
 of clean washed gravel, which often extends from the 
 foot of the surrounding highlands, three or four hun- 
 dred yards into the lake, forming gravelly points 
 upon which there is a delightful walk, and scalloping 
 out the margin of the lake, with the most pleasing 
 irregularity. In walking along these, the eye is at- 
 tracted by the various colours of the mineral gems, 
 which are promiscuously scattered among the wa- 
 ter-worn debris of granitic, and other rocks, and the 
 carnelian, agate, and chalcedony, are met with at 
 every step. The size of these gems is often as large 
 as the egg of the partridge, and the transparency, 
 and beauty of colour, is only excelled by the choi- 
 cest oriental specimens. There is no perceptible 
 current in the lake, during calm weather, and the 
 water partakes so little of the turbid character of 
 the lower Mississippi, that objects can be distinctly 
 seen through it, at the depth of eight or ten feet. — 
 It is plentifully stored with a variety of fish, the 
 most remarkable of which is the shovel-nosed stur- 
 geon, which is so called from a protuberance 
 which extends from the end of the nose about four- 
 teen inches — is four in width, and quite thin, in 
 which respect, as well as in the shape of this pro- 
 cess, it bears a striking resemblance to a physi- 
 cian's spatula. In other respects its size and gene- 
 ral appearance corresponds with the small sturgeon 
 of lakes Huron and Superior. This extension of 
 the nose, appears designed to enable the animal to 
 agitato the mud along the shores, and on the bot-
 
 329 
 
 torn of the Mississippi, in quest of certain aniraalcu- 
 la, which are supposed to be its favourite food. The 
 shores of this lake, also, appear favourable to the 
 growth of crustaceous fish, and an examination of 
 the different varieties which are presented, would 
 probably result in the discovery of one or two new 
 species. In no place have I ever noticed the fresh 
 water muscle, attain so large a size. One of these, 
 which I procured, measures seven inches in length, 
 by five and a half in width, and the thickness, tak- 
 en at right angles with the most convex part of the 
 shell, is a little less than four inches. 
 
 Lake Pepin receives two of the tributary streams 
 of the Mississippi, called the river au Canoe, and 
 Porcupine-quill river. The former has, by a gene- 
 ral mistake, (which I did not myself detect until my 
 map was engraved) been called Cannon river; 
 and I have elsewhere spoken of it, under the name 
 of Ocano, being the popular pronunciation of the 
 French term. It flows into Lake Pepin from the 
 west, near its head; and is one of the principal 
 hunting grounds of the Red wing's band. Porcu- 
 pine-quill river, enters in a large bend on the east 
 shore, about midway of the length of the lake, and 
 is noted as the ancient site of a French fort and 
 trading factory. We did not stop to examine the 
 remains- of this establishment, which it is said, are 
 still visible. 
 
 In passing through Lake Pepin, our interpreter 
 pointed out to us a high precipice, on the east shore 
 of the lake, from which an Indian girl, of the Sioux 
 nation, had many years ago, precipitated herself in 
 a fit of disappointed love. She had given her heart* 
 
 42
 
 330 
 
 it appears, to a young chief of her own tribe, who 
 was very much attached to her, but the alliance 
 was opposed by her parents, who wished her to 
 marry an old chief, renowned for his wisdom and 
 his influence in the nation. As the union was in- 
 sisted upon, and no other way appearing to avoid it, 
 she determined to sacrifice her life in preference to 
 a violation of a former vow, and while the prepara- 
 tions for the marriage feast were going forward, left 
 her father's cabin, without exciting suspicion, and 
 before she could be overtaken, threw herself from 
 an awful precipice, and was instantly dashed to a 
 thousand pieces. Such an instance of sentiment is 
 rarely to be met with among barbarians, and should 
 redeem the name of this noble-minded girl from ob- 
 livion. It was Oola-lta. (Oo-la-i-ta ) 
 
 Having descended the river sixty-seven miles, we 
 encamped on a gravelly beach on the east shore of 
 Lake Pepin, at six o'clock in the evening, the wea- 
 ther threatening a storm. In the vicinity of our 
 encampment, we observed the asparagus growing 
 along the shore. The seeds had probably been drop- 
 ped by some former traveller. At eight o'clock, it 
 commenced raining, and continued, at short inter- 
 vals, during a great part of the night, attended with 
 severe thunder, and the most vivid flashes of light- 
 ning. 
 
 • 
 
 LXXIII. Day. — (August 4th.) — We proceeded on 
 our descent at five o'clock. The rain had ceased 
 before day light, but the morning remained cloudy, j 
 The lake is two miles and a half wide, opposite the 
 spot of our encampment, but narrows gradually to- 
 wards its outlet, which is ten miles below. The
 
 331 
 
 scenery during this distance is highly picturesque 
 and beautiful. The precipices on the east are high, 
 and shoot up into spiral points, yet are covered par- 
 tially with grass and shrubbery. On the west we 
 observe nothing but an elevated level prairie. The 
 contrast produces the finest effect. At the precise 
 point of exit of the Mississippi river, from Lake 
 Pepin, the Chippeway, or Sauteaux river, comes in 
 from the east. It is half a mile wide at its mouth, 
 and its sources are connected with the Montreal 
 river of Lake Superior. Below the junction of this 
 stream, the Mississippi has an increased width, and 
 contains a great number of small willow and cotton- 
 wood islands, and the navigation is rendered more 
 difficult, on account of the innumerable sand bars 
 which here first make their appearance. They are 
 attributable, in a great measure, to the immense 
 quantity of sand brought down by the Chippeway 
 river. 
 
 A few miles below Lake Pepin on the west bank 
 of the Mississippi, are the remains of one of the 
 most interesting and extensive of those ancient cir- 
 cumvallations, which are so frequently found through- 
 out the valley of the Mississippi, and its confluent 
 streams, and whose origin, notwithstanding the lapse 
 of half a century since they first began to attract 
 the notice of philosophic enquirers, still remains 
 veiled in the impenetrable mist of obscurity. The 
 work in question was in fact one of the earliest that 
 excited notice, but the hints which were thrown out 
 by Carver in 1768, with respect to this work, ap- 
 pear to have escaped the attention of succeeding 
 travellers and enquirers, and as yet no plan of it» 
 has been taken. As our opportunities did not allow
 
 332 
 
 us to supply this deficiency, by actual observation, 
 I shall here present the remarks of the enterprising 
 traveller alluded to, in order to excite the attention 
 of those who may hereafter visit the region. 
 
 " One day having landed on the shore of the Mis- 
 sissippi, some miles below Lake Pepin, whilst my 
 attendants were preparing my dinner, I walked out 
 to take a view of the adjacent country. I had not 
 proceeded far before I came to a fine, level, open 
 plain, on which I perceived, at a little distance, a 
 partial elevation that had the appearance of an in- 
 trenchment. On a nearer inspection, 1 had greater 
 reason to suppose that it had really been intended 
 for this many centuries ago. Notwithstanding it was 
 now covered with grass, I could plainly discern that 
 it had once been a breast-work of about four feet in 
 height, extending the best part of a mile, and suffi- 
 ciently capacious to cover five thousand men. Its 
 form was somewhat circular, and its flanks reached 
 to the river. Though much defaced by time, every 
 angle was still distinguishable, and appeared as re- 
 gular, and fashioned with as much military skill, as 
 if planned by Vauban himself The ditch was not 
 visible, but I thought on examining more curiously, 
 that I could perceive there certainly had been one. 
 From its situation also, I am convinced that it must 
 have been designed for this purpose. It fronted the 
 country (the west) and the rear was covered by the 
 river ; nor was there any rising ground for a consid- 
 erable distance that commanded it ; a few straggling 
 oaks were alone to be seen near it. In many places 
 small tracks (paths) were worn across it by the feet 
 of the elks and deer, and from the depth of the bed 
 of the earth by which it was covered, I was able to
 
 333 
 
 draw certain conclusions of its great antiquity. I 
 examined all the angles and every part with great 
 attention, and have often blamed myself since, for 
 not encamping on the spot, and drawing an exact 
 plan of it. To shew that this description is not the 
 offspring of a heated imagination, or the chimerical 
 tale of a mistaken traveller. 1 find, on enquiry since 
 my return, that Monsieur St. Pierre and several oth- 
 er traders have, at different times, taken notice of 
 similar appearances, on which they have formed the 
 same conjectures, but without examining them so 
 minutely as I did. How a work of this kind could 
 exist in a country that has hitherto (according to die 
 generally received opinion) been the seat of war to 
 untutored Indians alone, whose whole stock of mili- 
 tary knowledge has only, till within two centuries, 
 amounted to drawing the bow, and whose only breast- 
 work even at present, is the thicket, I know not. 
 I have given as exact an account as possible of this 
 singular appearance, and leave to future explorers 
 of these distant regions, to discover whether it is a 
 production of nature or art. Perhaps the hints I 
 have here given might lead to a more perfect investi- 
 gation of it, and give us very different ideas of the 
 ancient state of realms that we at present believe to 
 have been from the earliest period only the habita- 
 tions of savages."* 
 
 This is the first notice, to the best of my recollec- 
 tion, ever taken by a transatlantic writer of those an- 
 tique works, which are now daily discovered, in 
 •very part of the western country, and after all that 
 has been poured out upon this subject, the conclude 
 
 * Carver's Travels, p. 30,
 
 334 
 
 mg observation of Carver, made in the American 
 wilderness sixty years ago, embraces half the sum 
 of our knowledge upon the subject at the present 
 day. The fact of the existence of a very extensive 
 work at the place above mentioned, is corroborated 
 by a conversation I have had on that subject with 
 Mr. Harman V. Hart, of the city of Albany, who has 
 spent five years as a trader in the Sioux countries, 
 and frequently visited the works in question, as well 
 as those upon the river St. Peter's, which are noti- 
 ced in another part of this journal. 
 
 At four o'clock in the afternoon, we made a short 
 halt at the Sioux village of Wabashaw, which is eli- 
 gibly situated on the west bank of the Mississippi, 
 sixty miles below Lake Pepin. It consists of four 
 large lodges, with a population of, probably, sixty 
 souls. A present of tobacco and whiskey was given, 
 and we again embarked at twenty minutes before 
 five o'clock. 
 
 A few miles below Wabashaw's village, an isolat- 
 ed mountain, of singular appearance, rises out of the 
 centre of the river, to a height of four or five hun- 
 dred feet, where it terminates in crumbling peaks of 
 naked rock, whose lines of stratification and massy 
 walls, impress forcibly upon the mind the im- 
 age of some gigantic battlement of former genera- 
 tions. Around its lower extremity, the alluvion of 
 the river has collected, forming a large island, 
 covered with a heavy forest, whose deep green 
 foliage forms a pleasing contrast with the barren 
 grandeur of the impending rocks, which project their 
 gothic pinnacles into the clouds, and cast a sombre 
 shadow over the broad and glittering bosom of the 
 Mississippi. This singular feature in the topo-
 
 335 
 
 graphy of the country, has long attracted the admi- 
 ration, and the wonder, of the voyageurs of the Mis- 
 sissippi, who have bestowed upon it the appellation 
 of The Mountain that sinks in the Water, [La Mon- 
 taigne qui Trompe dans VEauJ) an opinion being pre- 
 valent among them, that it annually sinks a few ^eet. 
 This island-mountain is four or five miles in circum- 
 ference, with a mean width of half a mile, and by 
 dividing the channel of the river into two equal 
 halves, gives an immense width to the river, and 
 thus increases the grandeur of the prospect. It is 
 further remarkable as being the only fast, or rocky 
 island, in the whole course of this river, from the 
 Falls of Peckagama, to the Mexican Gulf. The 
 west channel of the Mississippi, opposite this moun- 
 tain, receives a small tributary, called The River of 
 the Mountain that Sinks in the Water, and the east 
 channel, another of similar size, called Buffalo river, 
 (La riviere au Bceuf.) Both may be considered in 
 the fourth class, as respects size and importance, of 
 the tributaries of the Mississippi. About five miles 
 below the Sinking Mountain, we encamped on the 
 west shore of the river, at seven in the evening, hav- 
 ing been twelve hours upon the river, and descend- 
 ed the current seventy miles. Immediately in the 
 rear of our camp, there was a lofty range of river 
 bluffs. I hastened to take a glimpse of their geolo- 
 gical character before the daylight disappeared, 
 and ob gaining the summit, had a commanding view 
 of the extensive tract of bottom land on the oppo- 
 site side of the river, which consists, in part, of a 
 heavy wooded forest, interspersed with patches of 
 prairie, and bounded at the distance of four or five 
 miles, by a range of calcareous bluffs, correspond-
 
 336 
 
 Itig, in general appearance, to that upon which I 
 stood. The scene is checquered by the devious 
 course of Black River, which joins the Mississippi 
 in front, — by the mountain that sinks in the water 
 above, and the broad Mississippi, with its numerous 
 islands and channels, at a depression of four or five 
 hundred feet below. Turning the eye towards the 
 west, the country has the general elevation of the 
 river bluffs. It is wooded with oak — with tracts 
 of prairie — and lies in ridges, some of which are 
 entirely covered with grass, and destitute of forest 
 trees. At the rapids of Black River, one day's 
 journey in a canoe from its mouth, there is a saw- 
 mill recently erected, by a gentleman at Prairie du 
 Chien, where boards and scantling are already saw- 
 ed for the purposes of building at the latter place. 
 Thus is the empire of the arts, and the march of Eu- 
 ropean population, gradually extending into regions 
 which have, heretofore, only resounded to the savage 
 war whoop, or if they have ever before witnessed a 
 civilized population, (as our tumuli, and antiquities 
 would lead us to infer,) the light of history, and the 
 voice of tradition, cast not a solitary beam to illu- 
 mine our researches, or direct us in elucidating the 
 mysterious history of the aboriginal tribes, and the 
 ancient state of society, arts, and religion, upon our 
 continent. 
 
 A short time previous to our encampment, we ob- 
 served a large grey wolf in the river before us, mak- 
 ing its way for the opposite bank. In a moment ev- 
 ery canoe was pointed towards it, — every muscle 
 was strained to intercept its landing ; and we shot 
 down the stream with the rapidity of an eagle who 
 pouncos upon his prey. The whooping of the In-
 
 337 
 
 dians, — the shots that were fired, — and the tumult of 
 so many paddles dashing in the water, gave great 
 spirit to this scene, but it was only of momen- 
 tary duration, as the wolf soon gained the sandy 
 shore of the river, and shaking the water from his 
 meagre flanks, sprang into an adjoining thicket, and 
 in a moment disappeared. 
 
 LXXIV. Day. — {August 5th.) — It is ninety miles 
 from the spot of our encampment to Prairie du Chien. 
 We embarked a few moments after three in the 
 morning, and reached the Prairie, at six in the af- 
 ternoon. As we descend, the Mississippi has a gra- 
 dual increase of size, and its valley a corresponding 
 width. — The calcareous bluffs continue on either 
 shore. In the course of this day, the river has been 
 swelled by the rivers Embarras, La Claire, and Ba- 
 daxe, the two former uniting at the point of their en- 
 | trance into the Mississippi. 
 
 The village of Prairie du Chien is pleasantly situ- 
 ated on the east bank of the river, on the verge of 
 one of those beautiful and extensive natural mead- 
 ows, which characterize the valley of the Mississip- 
 pi. It consists of about eighty buildings, including 
 the garrison, the principal part of which are of logs, 
 arranged in two streets parallel with the river.* 
 and is estimated to have an aggregate population of 
 five hundred. This, is exclusive of the garrison, now 
 consisting of a company of infantry, ninety-six strong, 
 under the command of Capt. Fowle. 
 
 The village of Prairie du Chien takes its name 
 from a family of Fox Indians who formerly resided 
 there, and were distinguished by the appellation of 
 Dogs. The present settlement was first begun in 
 
 43 
 
 y
 
 338 
 
 J 783, by Mr. Giard, Mr. Antaya, and Mr. Dubuque, 
 There had formerly been an old settlement about a 
 mile below the site of the present village, which ex- 
 isted during the lime that the French held possession 
 of the Canadas, but it was abandoned, chiefly on ac- 
 count of its unhealthy situation, being near the bor- 
 ders of an extensive tract of overflowed grounds. 
 The early settlers, according to the principles adopt- 
 ed by the French colonists in the Canadas, intermar- 
 ried with Indian women, and the present population 
 is the result of this connexion. In it, we behold the 
 only instance which our country presents, of the 
 complete and permanent civilization of the aborigi- 
 nes ; and it may be doubted, after all that has been 
 said upon the subject, whether this race can ever be 
 reclaimed from the savage state, by any other meth- 
 od. The result, in the present instance, is such as to 
 equal the most sanguine expectations of the philan- 
 thropist, in regard to a mixed species. They are said 
 to exhibit evidences of enterprise, industry, and a 
 regard to order and the laws, at the same time, that 
 we perceive the natural taciturnity of the savage, 
 happily counterpoised by the vivacity and suavity 
 of the French character, producing manners which 
 are sprightly without frivolity, and serious without 
 becoming morose. 
 
 Prairie Du Chien is the seat of justice for Craw- 
 ford county, which has recently been erected in 
 ♦his part of the Michigan Territory,* and a court of 
 
 * The Northwestern Territory does not at present exist in law. 
 On the admission of the state of Illinois into the Union, the re- 
 gions northwest of it, and east of the Mississippi river, extending; 
 to its source, were incorporated with the government of Michi- 
 gan.
 
 339 
 
 justice has already been established. There is al- 
 so a company of militia formed out of the Gallico- 
 savage population, who perform the usual services 
 with promptitude. There is a school, however, 
 wanting, for the rising generation, and a suitable 
 opening appears to be presented for a person who 
 could unite the characters of a moral and religious 
 instructor. 
 
 The fortification at this place consists of four lines 
 of log barracks facing a square parade ground, and 
 defended by bastions at the northwest and south- 
 east angles. The logs are squared and whitewash- 
 ed, and the works occupy a considerable extent of 
 ground, and have a very neat, and imposing appear- 
 ance. There is a large and fertile island in the 
 Mississippi, opposite the village, and a high calcare- 
 ous bluff on the opposite bank. — The Ousconsing 
 joins the Mississippi one league below. — There is a 
 Bayou, or marsh, at the point of confluence, which 
 extends into the prairie to within a mile of the vil- 
 lage, and is thought to render it unhealthy at partic- 
 ular seasons. The lead mines are situated on the 
 west bank of the river twenty-five leagues below.
 
 CHAPTER XII.* 
 VISIT, 
 
 TO THE LEAD MLXES OF DUBUQUE, ON THE UPPER 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 LXXV. Day.— (August 6th.) 
 
 As a delay of several days was anticipated at 
 Prairie du Chien, 1 solicited Governor Cass for per- 
 mission to employ the time in visiting the lead mines 
 of the upper Mississippi, which had acquired some 
 celebrity from their reputed extent, and the novel 
 circumstance of their being worked by the Indian 
 tribes. I left the prairie at half past eleven in the 
 morning, in a canoe manned by eight voyage urs, in- 
 cluding a guide. Three miles below, we passed the 
 mouth of the Ousconsing, which is a large and ma- 
 jestic stream, and communicates by a short portage 
 with the Fox river of Green Bay — a route which 
 we are to pursue on our return to Detroit. Nine 
 leagues below the Ousconsing, Turkey river enters 
 the Mississippi on the west bank, by a mouth of 
 sixty yards in width. This stream is one of the 
 principal hunting grounds of the Fox Indians, and 
 communicates, by its main northwestern fork, with 
 the Terre Bleu of St. Peter's. There is a Fox vil- 
 lage (now deserted) of twelve lodges, a mile below, 
 on the east bank of the Mississippi. Here I en- 
 camped at seven o'clock in the evening, having de-
 
 34 J 
 
 scended the river thirty-one miles against a strong 
 head wind. 1 found the lodges to be large, and 
 built of logs, in the same substantial manner prac- 
 tised among the Narcotah bands. The cause of 
 their being now deserted, is the fear entertained of 
 an attack from the Sioux, in retaliation for the mas- 
 sacre lately perpetrated upon the banks of the St 
 Peters. The desertion appears to have taken place 
 after they had planted their corn, and from the or- 
 der in which the village is left, it may be concluded 
 that its re-occupation is kept in view. I found sev- 
 eral small gardens and corn fields adjoining the vil- 
 lage, in which squashes, beans, and pumpkins were 
 abundant, but the corn had been nearly all destroy- 
 ed, probably by wild animals. Walking back from 
 the river half a mile, to examine the geological char- 
 acter of an adjoining bluff, I was surprised to find 
 an extensive field of water and musk-melons, situa- 
 ted in the midst of a grove of small, scattering trees, 
 but without any inclosure. Some of the fruit had 
 been destroyed by animals, but a great abundance 
 still remained, although I found none perfect- 
 ly ripe. This must have been owing to the sha- 
 ded situation of the vines, and not to a defect of cli- 
 mate, as we found the water-melon in full maturity 
 at Prairie du Chien, which is thirty miles north. 
 
 LXXV1. Day.— (August 1th.)— We had frequent 
 peals of thunder during the night, and the atmos- 
 phere threatened a rain-storm, as daylight approach- 
 ed. I embarked at half past three in the morning. 
 It commenced raining in twenty minutes afterwards, 
 and continued incessantly until my arrival at the 
 Fox village of the Kettle chief, where 1 landed at
 
 342 
 
 ten o'clock, having descended the river iorty-nve 
 miles. 
 
 The Kettle chiefs village is situated on the west 
 bank of the river, and consists of nineteen lodges* 
 built in two rows — pretty compact — with a popula- 
 tion of two hundred and fifty souls. In the Missis- 
 sippi river, directly opposite this village, there is a 
 large island, where a number of traders are con- 
 stantly stationed for the purpose of supplying the In- 
 dians with merchandize, and purchasing their lead. 
 Concluding I should there find an interpreter of the 
 Fox language, I first landed upon the island, and 
 met with the most friendly reception from the tra- 
 ders, who readily communicated to me the informa- 
 tion I sought, respecting the location, number, and 
 value of the mines, and the method of working 
 them, together with specimens of the ores, and ac- 
 companying minerals. The rain ceased an hour af- 
 ter my arrival, when I proceeded across an arm of 
 the Mississippi to the Kettle chief's village, to soli- 
 cit his permission, and procure Indian guides, to 
 explore the mines which are situated in the interior. 
 I was accompanied on this visit by Mr. Gates, as in- 
 terpreter, and by Dr. S. Muir, a trader of the isl- 
 and, who politely offered to go out with me. On 
 entering the Kettle chiefs lodge, I found him suf- 
 fering under a severe attack of bilious fever. As I 
 approached him, he sat up on his pallet, being una- 
 ble to stand, and bid me welcome, but soon became 
 exhausted by the labour of conversation, and was 
 obliged to resume his former position. He appear- 
 ed to be a man of eighty years of age — with a ven- 
 erable look, but reduced to the last stage of phys- 
 ical debility, yet retaining, unimpaired, his faculties
 
 343 
 
 of sight and hearing, and his mental powers ; and 
 he spoke to me of his death with calm resignation, 
 and as a thing to be desired. On stating the object 
 of my visit, some objections were made by the 
 chiefs who surrounded him, and they required fur- 
 ther time to consider the proposition. In the mean 
 time, 1 learned from another source, that since the 
 death of Dubuque, to whom they had formerly 
 granted the privilege of working the mines, they 
 had manifested a great jealousy of the whites — were 
 afraid they would encroach upon their rights — de- 
 nied all former grants, and did not make it a prac- 
 tice even to allow strangers to view their diggings, 
 &c. Apprehending some difficulties of this kind, I 
 had provided myself with some Indian presents, and 
 concluding this to be the true cause of the reluc- 
 tance manifested, directed one of my voyageurs to 
 bring in a present of whiskey and tobacco ; and in a 
 few moments afterwards received their assent, and 
 two guides were furnished to conduct us out. One 
 of these, was a soldier-chief of the Fox tribe, called 
 Sea-bass, or the yelling wolf; the other, Wa-ba-say-ah, 
 or the white Fox skin. 
 
 The district of country generally called Dudujuvs 
 Lead mines, embraces an area of about twenty-one 
 square leagues, commencing at the mouth of the 
 little Maquanquitons river, sixty miles below Prai- 
 rie du Chien, and extending along the west bank of 
 the Mississippi, seven leagues in front by three in 
 depth. The principal mines are situated upon a 
 tract of one square league, commencing immediate- 
 ly at the Fox village of the Kettle chief, and ex- 
 tending westward. This is the seat of the mining 
 operations formerly carried on by Dubuque, and of
 
 344 
 
 what are called the Indian diggings. The ore found 
 is the common sulphuret of lead, with a broad folia- 
 ted structure, and high metallic lustre. It occurs 
 massive, and disseminated, in a reddish loam, 
 resting upon lime stone rock, and sometimes is seen 
 in small veins pervading the rock, but it has been 
 chiefly explored in alluvial soil. It generally occurs 
 in beds or veins, which have no great width, and 
 run in a certain direction three or four hundred 
 yards, — then cease, or are traced into some cre- 
 vice in the rock, having the appearance of a regular 
 vein. At this stage of the pursuit most of the dig- 
 gings have been abandoned, and frequently, with 
 small veins of ore in view. No matrix is found with 
 the ore which is dug out of the alluvial soil, but it is 
 inveloped by the naked earth, and the lumps of ore 
 are incrusted by an ochreous earth. Occasionally, 
 however, some pieces of calcareous spar, are thr6wn 
 out of the earth in digging after lead, and I picked up 
 a solitary specimen of the transparent sulphat of 
 barytes, but these substances appear to be very 
 rare. There is none of the radiated quartz, or 
 while opake heavy spar, which is so common at 
 the . Missouri mines. The calcareous rock upon 
 which this alluvial formation, containing lead ore, 
 rests, appears to be referable to the transition class. 
 I have not ascertained its particular extent about 
 the mines. The same formation is seen, overlayed 
 by a distinct stratum of compact lime stone, con- 
 taining numerous petrifactions, at several places, be- 
 tween the mines and Prairie du Chien. The lead 
 ore at these mines is now exclusively dug by the 
 Fox Indians, and, as is usual among savage tribes, 
 the chief labour devolves upon the women. The
 
 343 
 
 old and superannuated men also partake in these la- 
 bours, but the warriors and young men, hold them- 
 selves above it. They employ the hoe, shovel, 
 pick-axe, and crow-bar, in taking up the ore. These 
 things are supplied by the traders, but no shafts 
 are sunk, not even of the simplest kind, and the 
 windlass and bucket are unknown among them. — 
 They run drifts into the hills so far as they can con- 
 veniently go, without the use of gun-powder, and 
 if a trench caves in, it is abandoned. They always 
 dig down at such an angle that they can walk in 
 and out of the pits, and 1 descended into one of 
 these, which had probably been carried down forty 
 feet. All this, is the work of the Indian women and 
 old men, who discover a degree of perseverance and 
 industry, which is deserving of the highest commend- 
 ation. When a quantity of ore has been got out, it 
 is carried in baskets, by the women, to the banks of 
 the Mississippi, and there ferried over in canoes 
 to the island, where it is purchased by the traders 
 at the rate of two dollars for a hundred and twenty 
 pounds, payable in goods at Indian prices. At the 
 profits at which these goods are usually sold, it may 
 jjbe presumed to cost the traders from seventy-five 
 cents to a dollar, cash value, per hundred weight. 
 The traders smelt the ore upon the island, in furna- 
 ces of the same construction used at the lead mines 
 of Missouri, and observe, that it yields the same 
 per centum of metallic lead. Formerly, the Indians 
 were in the habit of smelting their ore themselves, 
 Upon log-heaps, by which a great portion was con- 
 verted into what are called lead-ashes, and thus lost. 
 Now, the traders v induce them to search about the 
 sites of those ancient fires, and carefully collect the 
 
 U
 
 346 
 
 lead ashes, for which they receive a dollar per 
 bushel, delivered at the island, payable in merchan- 
 dize. 
 
 There are three lead mines, in addition to those 
 above mentioned, situated upon the upper Missis- 
 sippi, which are worked by the Indian tribes, name- 
 ly, the Sissinaway mines, — mine au Fevre, — and the 
 mines of the little Maquanquitons. 
 
 f. The Sissinaway Mines. — These are situated fif- 
 teen miles below the Kettle chiefs village, on the 
 east shore of the Mississippi, and at the junction of 
 the Sissinaway river. 
 
 II. Mine au Fcvre. — Situated on the river au Fevre r 
 which enters the Mississippi on the east shore, twen- 
 ty-one miles below Dubuque's mines. The lead ore 
 is found ten miles above its mouth. At this place, 
 there is a considerable quantity of sulphat of ba- 
 rytes, and the ore is often found crystalized in re- 
 gular cubes, octahedrons, &c. 
 
 III. Mine of Maquanquitons. — This is a short dis- 
 tance up the little Maquanquiton's river, which 
 flows into the Mississippi fifteen miles above Du- 
 buque's mines. It has been the least explored of 
 any. 
 
 The Fox, or Outagami Indians, upon whose ter- 
 ritories these mines are situated, are settled upon 
 both banks of the Mississippi, between Prairie du 
 Chien and Rock rivers, and Claim the lands thus oc- 
 cupied, and extending a certain distance east and 
 west of the river. They are bounded by the lands 
 of the Sioux of the Missouri, on the west, — by the 
 Winnebagoes, and Pottawattamies, on the east, and 
 by the Sacs and Kickapoos on the south. Their 
 ■principal village is that called the Kettle Chiefs, at
 
 347 
 
 Dubuque's mines, seventy-five miles below Prairie 
 du Chien. They have another village at the Rock 
 river rapids, a hundred and sixty miles below. It 
 consists of fourteen lodges, and a hundred and fif- 
 ty souls. On the east bank of the Mississippi, near 
 the foot of Rock island, there is a large village of 
 Foxes and Sacs, living promiscuously together. — It 
 consists of sixty lodges, being one of the largest 
 and most populous Indian villages on the continent. 
 They have also a small village at the mouth of Tur- 
 key river, thirty miles below Prairie du Chien, but 
 it is at present temporarily deserted. These villa- 
 ges comprise the strength of the Fox tribe, which 
 is estimated at four hundred souls. They are near- 
 ly related to the Sacs, from whom they have se- 
 ceded within the last century. They also claim re- 
 lationship with the Chippeways. Of their own ori- 
 gin they know very little. As far as their traditions 
 extend, they came from the neighbourhood of Kings- 
 ton, in Upper Canada. From thence they were 
 driven into the vicinity of Michilimackinac, and af- 
 terwards to Green Bay, and along the river which 
 falls into its head, and bears their name. At Fox 
 river, they suffered a signal defeat, from a body of 
 combined French and Indians, at a place since call- 
 ed La Butte de mort, or the Hill of the dead; and 
 were driven to the banks of the Ousconsing, from 
 which they subsequently emigrated, to the country 
 they now occupy. They speak the Algon- 
 quin language, with a great many peculiarities, and 
 corruptions, and are supposed to be one of the nu- 
 merous bands into which that once powerful nation, 
 has been scattered. The name of Reynards or Foxes, 
 appears first to have been bestowed on them, du-
 
 318 
 
 ring their sojournment at Green Bay. The history 
 of their migrations and wars, shews them to have 
 been a restless and spirited people — erratic in their 
 dispositions, having agreat contempt for agriculture, 
 and a predominant passion for war. By this means, 
 they have been continually changing — suffering—^ 
 and diminishing, until they are reduced to a hundred 
 fighting men. Still, they retain their ancient char- 
 acter, and are constantly embroiled in wars and 
 disputes with their neighbours, the results of which 
 shew, that they have more courage in battle, than 
 wisdom in council. In their dealings with the tra- 
 ders, they are cunning and deceitful. In their en- 
 gagements, they lack punctuality, and in their 
 friendships, constancy; yet they profess a fawning 
 friendship for all. Hence the French traders early 
 applied to them, in derision, the term of dogs, and 
 foxes. They are at present waring with the Sioux, 
 and lately surprised and killed nine of that nation, 
 on a branch of the St. Peter's, catled Terre Bleu, 
 where they both resort to procure the blue clay, 
 with which they are fond of painting themselves. — 
 There is now a war party of twenty men, in the 
 same direction, under a half-breed, by the name of 
 Morgan. This party went out by Turkey river, 
 and are supposed to have marched against the Sissi- 
 longs of the St. Peter's. They are also on bad 
 terms with the Pawnees, and Osages, south of the 
 Missouri, and with the Winnebagoes, in their own 
 neighbourhood, from whom they occasionally steal 
 horses, and are plundered in return. 
 
 In 1780, a discovery of lead ore was made upon 
 their lands by the wife of Peosta, a warrior of the 
 Kettle duel's village, and extensive mines have
 
 349 
 
 since been discovered. These, were granted by 
 the Indians to J ulien Dubuque at a council held at 
 Prairie du Chien in 1788, by virtue of which he 
 settled upon the lands — erected buildings and furna- 
 ces, and continued to work the mines, until the 
 year 1810. In the meantime (H96) he received 
 a confirmation of the Indian grant from the Baron 
 de Carondelet, Governor of Louisiana, in which 
 they were designated the " Mines of Spain." 
 
 " Julien Dubuque," by a stone monument which 
 stands on a hill near the mines, " died on the 24th 
 of March, 1810, aged 45 years, 6 months." After 
 his death, the Indians burnt down his house and fen- 
 ces, and erased every vestige of civilized life, and 
 they have since revoked, or at least, denied the 
 grant, and appear to set a very high value upon 
 the mines. Dubuque dying in debt, his claims 
 were assigned to his creditors, by whom they were 
 presented for confirmation, to the board of Com- 
 missioners appointed by the United States Govern- 
 ment in 1806, to determine upon the land titles and 
 grants of the newly acquired Territory of Louisia 
 na. By this Board, the claim of the assignees was 
 determined to be valid, and a memorial of their 
 proceedings transmitted to the Treasury Depart- 
 ment, at Washington, for the final decision of Con* 
 gress. In this stage of the investigation, Mr. Gal- 
 latin, transmits, by way of report, to the President of 
 the United States, the following facts, and remarks, 
 which may be considered as embracing the views of 
 the government, in relation to one of the most im- 
 portant of the western land claims, which still re- 
 main undecided.
 
 350 
 
 FACTS. 
 
 " In 1788, Dubuque purchased from the Indian^ 
 an extent of seven leagues front on the Mississippi, 
 by three leagues in depth, containing upwards of 
 one hundred and forty thousand acres, and the most 
 valuable lead mines of Louisiana, situated about five 
 hundred miles above St. Louis, The sale is very 
 vague ; they permit Dubuque to work the mine as 
 long as he pleases, and till he thinks proper to aban- 
 don it, without confining him to any time ; and they 
 also sell him the hill and contents of the land (or 
 mine) found by Peosta's wife, and if he finds no- 
 thing in it, he may work where he pleases, and 
 work quietly. In 1796, he presents his re.quete, to 
 Governor Carondelet at New-Orleans, stating that 
 he has made a settlement (habitation) or settled a 
 plantation amongst the Indians, that he has purchas- 
 ed from them a portion of land with all the mines 
 therein contained ; that the habitation is but a. point, 
 and inasmuch as the mines he works, are three 
 leagues from each other, he requests the governor 
 to grant him the peaceable possession of the mines and 
 lands, contained within certain natural boundaries, 
 and which he states as being above six leagues in 
 front, and three in depth. 
 
 " The governor refers the application for informa- 
 lion to A. Todd, who had the monopoly of the In- 
 dian trade on the Mississippi. 
 
 44 A. Todd reports, that no objection occurs to him, 
 if the governor thinks it convenient to grant the ap- 
 plication, provided that Dubuque shall not trade 
 with the Indians without his permission. 
 
 " Governor Carondelet, writes at the foot of the re- 
 quest, " granted as is asked (concedido como se so-
 
 351 
 
 licita) under the restrictions mentioned by Todd, 
 in his information, 10th November, 1796." 
 
 " Governor Harrison in his treaty with the Sacs and 
 Foxes, of the 3d November, 1804, introduces an ar- 
 ticle, by which it is agreed, that nothing in the trea- 
 ty shall affect the claim of individuals who might 
 have obtained grants of land from the Spanish go- 
 vernment, known to, and recognised by the Indians, 
 though such grants be not included within the boun- 
 dary line fixed by the treaty with said Indians. And 
 the same governor certifies that the article was in- 
 serted with the intention of particularly embracing 
 Dubuque's claim. The claim having been laid be 
 fore the commissioners, they made on the 20th Sep- 
 tember, 1 806, the following decision : 
 
 " A majority of the board, John B. C. Lucas dis- 
 senting, ascertain this claim to be a complete Spa- 
 nish grant, made and completed prior to the 1st 
 day of October, 1800. 
 
 " A copy of that decision, tested by the assistant 
 clerk of the board, has been delivered to Aug : Chou- 
 teau, •J'ho had purchased from Dubuque, one undi- 
 vided half of the claim." 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 " I. Governor Harrison's treaty adds no sanction 
 to the claim : It is only a saving clause in favour of 
 a claim, without deciding on its merits, a question 
 which indeed he had no authority to decide. 
 
 <% II. The form of the concession, if it shall be so 
 called, is not that of a patent, or final grant, and 
 that it was not considered as such the commission- 
 ers knew, as they had previously received a list pro- 
 cured from the records at New-Orleans, and trans-
 
 352 
 
 uiitted by the Secretary of the Treasury, of all the 
 patents issued under the French and Spanish go- 
 vernments, in which this was not included, and 
 which also showed the distinction between conces- 
 sion, and patent, or complete title. 
 
 "III. The form of the concession is not even that 
 used, when it was intended ultimately to grant the 
 land ; for it is then uniformly accompanied with an 
 order to the proper officer to survey the land, on 
 which survey being returned, the patent issues. 
 
 " IV. The Governor only grants as is asked ; and 
 nothing is asked but the peaceable possession of a 
 tract of land on which the Indians had given a per- 
 sonal permission to work the lead mines as long as 
 he should remain. 
 
 " Upon the whole, this appears to have been a 
 mere permission to work certain distant mines, with- 
 out any alienation of, or intention to alienate, the 
 domain. — Such permission might be revoked at will ; 
 how it came to be considered as transferring the 
 fee simple, or even as an incipient and incomplete 
 title to the fee simple, cannot be understood. 
 
 " it seems, also, that the commissioners, ought 
 not to have given to any person certificates of their 
 proceeding, tending to give a colour of title to 
 claimants. They were by law directed to transmit 
 to the treasury a transcript of their decisions, in 
 order that the same might be laid before Congress 
 for approbation or rejection."* 
 
 The mines of Dubuque were among the objects 
 to which the attention of Lieutenant Pike was di- 
 
 * Collection of Land Laws of the United States, priuted at 
 Washington, 1817-
 
 353 
 
 rected, in his voyage up the Mississippi in 1805, but 
 a number of circumstances prevented him from vis- 
 iting the mines, or from procuring much information 
 upon the subject. It did not suit the views of Mr. 
 Dubuque, to encourage his visit — the mines were 
 represented at a great distance — he pretended to 
 have no horses at command, &c. Under these cir- 
 cumstances, Lieutenant Pike contented himself, by 
 proposing to Mr. Dubuque, a number of queries in 
 writing, but the answers given, do not appear to be 
 entitled to full confidence, and are somewhat equi- 
 vocal.* 
 
 * Queries proposed by Lieutenant Pike, to Mr. Dubuque — with 
 his Answers. 
 
 1. What is the date of your grant of the mines from the savages ? 
 Ans. The copy of the grant is in Mr- Soulard's Office, at St. 
 
 Louis. 
 
 2. What is the date of the confirmation by the Spaniards ? 
 Ans. The same as to query first. 
 
 3. What is the extent of your grant ? 
 Ans. The same as above. 
 
 4. What is the extent of the mines ? 
 Ans. Twenty-eight or twenty-seven leagues long, and from one 
 
 to three broad. 
 
 5. Lead made per annum ? 
 Ans. From 20 to 40,000 pounds. 
 
 6. Quantity of lead per cwt. of mineral ? 
 Ans. Seventy-five percent. 
 7- Quantity of lead in pigs ? 
 Ans. All he makes, as he neither manufactures bar, sheet-lead^ 
 
 or shot. 
 8. If mixed with any other mineral ? 
 
 Ans. We have seen some copper, but having no person suffi- 
 iently acquainted with chemistry, to make the experiment, pro- 
 erly } I cannot say as to the proportion it bears to the lead. 
 
 J. DUBUQUE, 
 Z. M. PIKE, 
 Lead Mines, 1st Sept. 1805. 
 
 45
 
 3M 
 
 Having examined the mines with as much mi- 
 nuteness as the time allotted to me, would permit. 
 I returned to the Mississippi in the evening, and 
 proceeding two leagues up the river, encamped up- 
 on an island, at eight o'clock. 
 
 LXXVII. Day.— {August 8th.)— -I embarked at 
 tour o'clock in the morning — passed the mouth of 
 Turkey river at two o'clock — and encamped upon a 
 small island, one league below the mouth of the 
 Ousconsing, at eight in the evening, having been 
 sixteen hours in my canoe, and ascended the river 
 sixty-three miles. 
 
 LXXVII1. Day.— (August 9th.)— I passed the 
 mouth of the Ousconsing before day-break, and 
 reached Prairie du Chien, at six in the morning, 
 after an absence of three days, during which, 1 have 
 travelled a hundred and fifty miles, forty-five of 
 which were made under an exposure to a rain storm. 
 
 The valley of the Mississippi between Prairie du 
 Chien, and the lead mines of Dubuque, is about two 
 miles in width, and consists of a rich deposit of al- 
 luvial soil, a part of which, is prairie ; and the re- 
 mainder, covered with a heavy forest of elm, sugar 
 tree, black walnut, ash, and cotton wood. It is 
 bounded on each side by corresponding bluffs of 
 calcareous rocks, which attain a general elevation 
 of four hundred feet, and throw an interest over the 
 scene — which prairies and forests — woody islands, 
 and winding channels, beautiful and picturesque, as 
 they certainly are, must fail to create. It is to these 
 bluffs, — now shooting into spiral columns, naked and 
 crumbling — now sloping into grassy hills, or inter-
 
 355 
 
 sected by lateral vallies — here, grouped in the 
 fantastic forms of some antiquated battlement, 
 mocking the ingenuity of man — there, stretching as 
 far as the eye can reach in a perpendicular wall — 
 but ever varying — pleasing — and new — it is to 
 these bluffs, that the valley of the upper Mississip- 
 pi, owes all its grandeur and magnificence. Its broad 
 and glittering channel — its woodless prairies and as- 
 piring forests-its flowering shrubs and animated pro- 
 ductions — only serve to fill up, and give effect to 
 the imposing outline, so boldly sketched by the pen- 
 cil of nature, in these sublime and pleasing bluffs. — 
 Yet, there is much in the detail of the scene, to ad- 
 mire — in the beauty of its tints — the fancy of the 
 grouping — and the mellowness of the shades. 
 
 Among the humbler growth, which adorns the 
 borders of the forest, the cornus florida, the sarsa- 
 parilla, and the sumach, are frequently to be seen, 
 still beautiful in the unbleached verdure of spring, 
 and bathing their impending branches in the rushing 
 stream, while the splendid foliage of the autumnal 
 forest, is already visible in the rich hues ofthe fading 
 maple, the heart-leaved aspen, and ;the populus 
 angulata. 
 
 The tall grass of the prairies, although it has al- 
 so assumed the yellow hue of autumn, and rustles in 
 the northern breeze, is yet occasionally chequered 
 with green copses of shrubby oaks, and beautified 
 with the peculiar tribe of heath-flowers, which lin- 
 ger unblown, through the sultry heats of July, to 
 scatter their fragrance over the fading fields of Au- 
 gust. The channel of the river, is often expanded 
 to an amazing width, and spotted with innumerable 
 islands, some of which, are nothing more than a
 
 356 
 
 bank of yellow sand just looming above tbe water, 
 and crowned with a brushy growth, of young wil- 
 lows and slender cotton woods : others, present 
 copses of the tallest trees, which are not unfre- 
 quently precipitated bodily into the stream, by the 
 undermining currents of the river, or hang from the 
 new fallen alluvial banks, with their branches dip- 
 ping into the stream. Perched upon these, we in- 
 variably find the heron, and king-fisher, who, with 
 motionless anxiety, watch for their finny prey. The 
 eagle, and the hawk, choose a more elevated seat to 
 watch for their food, while the buzzard, with an ea- 
 sy wing, is continually sailing through the air, ea- 
 gerly scanning the lower plains, for its favourite car- 
 rion. The white pelican, is also, very frequent, along 
 this part of the river, but is always found upon the 
 point of some naked sand bar, which I conclude to 
 be the most favourable spot for taking its food. The 
 duck, and the goose, appear to be the only species 
 of water-fowl, which are always in motion, and it is 
 rare to see them seated upon the shore, but, 
 this may be less the result of their superior activity, 
 and natural sprightliness, than the strong necessity 
 of continually searching for those aquatic plants, 
 which constitute their favourite food. The pigeon, 
 the snipe, the wild turkey, the raven, and the jay, 
 are also common along this part of the Mississippi, 
 and contribute, by their appearance, to enliven and 
 diversify the scene. Nor, is it uncommon, during the 
 heats of noon, to behold the savage, reclining be- 
 neath the grateful shade of the oak, upon some 
 breezy knoll ot the contiguous bluff —
 
 357 
 
 u Nor feels for aught, nor has a wish that goes 
 Beyond his present succour and repose. — 
 To-day's support employs to-day his thought, 
 To-morrow's meal must be to-morrow sought. '* 
 
 Satisfied with present competence, he thinks ncrt 
 of the long, and dreary winter, which shall soon de- 
 form his native sky — of the pinching hunger, which 
 shall await his improvidence — of the precariousiiess, 
 of the chace — of the rapid diminution of his tribes, 
 before the resistless march of European population- 
 of the evils, they have introduced into it; and of its 
 slow, certain, and total annihilation : but, dreaming 
 of the beauty of his native mountains, envies not 
 eastern monarchs their possessions, while all his 
 bliss — all his hopes — and all his ambition, are cen- 
 tered in the unrestrained enjoyment of liberty, and 
 the land of his forefathers. 
 
 '" Dear is that shed to which their souls conform, 
 K And dear the hill that lifts them to the storm ; 
 " And as a babe, when scaring sounds molest, 
 " Clings close, and closer, to the mother's breast — 
 a So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind's roar, 
 *' But binds them to their native mountains more." 
 
 Goldsmith.
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 O U RJV E Y, 
 
 FROM PRAIRIE BU CHIEN, BY THE OUSCOJVSLXG AjXI) 
 FOX RIVERS, TO GREEN BAY. 
 
 LXXVIII. Day.— {August 9th.) 
 
 JIURING our stay at Prairie du Chien, we observ- 
 ed a remarkable instance of natural deformity, in 
 the person of an Indian, who had just come in from 
 the interior. This singular being, was provided by 
 nature, with double the usual number of joints in 
 each arm, and leg, by which means, he was render- 
 ed, in some measure, helpless, and unable either to 
 stand, or walk. By an effort of savage ingenuity, 
 however, this redundancy of joints, was made the 
 means of procuring locomotion, by coiling his legs 
 in a large wooden bowl, in which he rolled himself 
 along, over a smooth surface, with considerable fa- 
 cility. The powers of his mind, were not, however, 
 in the least affected, by this corporeal degradation, 
 but appeared, on the contrary, vigorous, and supe- 
 rior to the generality of his tribe. He spoke seve- 
 ral Indian tongues, and conversed fluently in the 
 French language, as it is generally spoken by the 
 Canadian voyageurs, and northwest traders ; and his
 
 359 
 
 whole countenance bespoke intelligence, and mental 
 activity. 
 
 We left Prairie du Chien at half past ten in the 
 morning, and entering the Ousconsing three miles 
 below, ascended that river eighteen miles. It is a 
 wide, and shallow stream, running over a bed of 
 
 sand — with transparent waters and chequered 
 
 with numerous small islands, and sand bars. It has 
 an alluvial valley, of a mile in width, bounded on 
 each side by calcareous hills — which frequently, pre- 
 sent naked precipices towards the river. — The pre- 
 dominating trees, are oak, elm, and maple. 
 
 LXXIX. Day. — {August \Oth.) — Quitting our en- 
 campment at five o'clock, A. M. we ascended the 
 river thirty-six miles. During this distance, it is 
 joined by a small tributary from the right bank, call- 
 ed Blue river. It is a stream of small size— -with 
 clear water — and originates in highlands, near the 
 banks of Rock river. No change is observed in 
 the appearance of the Ousconsing — there is no per- 
 ceptible diminution, either in the width of the river, 
 or its valley. The bluffs, continue to bound the ri- 
 ver on both sides. The weather was fair and warm 
 during the fore part of the day, but suddenly cloud- 
 ed up, in the afternoon, when we had a shower of 
 rain, attended with thunder and lightning. 
 
 LXXX. Day. — (August Wth.) — On ascending the 
 river sixteen miles, we passed the mouth of Pine 
 river, a stream of thirty yards wide, entering on 
 the left, at the junction of which, there is a village of 
 Winnebagoes, of four lodges. Here we stopped a 
 few moments. The Indians appeared friendly, and
 
 360 
 
 presented us some dried venison : — we engaged two 
 of them to pilot us up the river, to the portage, and 
 make some mineral discoveries. The navigation of 
 the river above, is considerably impeded by sand 
 bars, and small islands, and some time is lost, in 
 searching for the proper channel. The water is 
 shallow — clear — and very warm. — The current is 
 strong, although without any falls or rapids. Nu- 
 merous muscle, and other shells, are strewed along 
 the sandy shores, some of which are very large, oth- 
 ers, exceedingly small, with transparent shells, and 
 colours beautifully variegated. — The plover, wild 
 goose, king-fisher, and small, yellow bird, are seen 
 along this part of the river. The river bluffs con- 
 tinue, sometimes receding a mile or two from the ri- 
 ver, and giving place to bottom lands, and patches 
 of prairie, then shutting in close upon the water's 
 edge. In the course of the day, we overtook a 
 barge and Indian canoe, which had been despatch- 
 ed in advance, from the Prairie, on the eighth, un- 
 der the charge of Mr. Chase. We encamped at 
 twilight, at the head of the Spruce Cliannel, having 
 ascended the river thirty-four miles. 
 
 LXXXI. Day. — (August 12/A.) — Proceeded up the 
 river at twenty minutes before five — weather fair. — 
 Ascended forty miles, and encamped on a sand bar, 
 on the left shore. Highlands continue. — Trees, 
 oak, elm, and maple. Alluvial bottom lands : and 
 prairies, occasionally, on either shore. Rock stra- 
 ta, compact lime stone, reposing upon white sand- 
 stone. A shower of rain, at six in the evening.
 
 301 
 
 LXXXII. D.w.— (Jurist 13//*.)— Ascended thirty- 
 eight miles. 
 
 LXXXIH. Day.— -(August \Ath.~)—A rain storm af- 
 ter twelve o'clock at night — cleared off at seven in 
 the morning, when we embarked, and reached the 
 portage between the Ousconsing and Fox rivers, at 
 one o'clock P. M. — distance sixteen miles. Cross- 
 ed over the portage, and encamped on the head of 
 Fox river. 
 
 The entire distance from the Prairie du Chien to the 
 portage of the Ousconsing, is one hundred and 
 eighty-two miles, in which distance the navigation 
 is not impeded with a fall or rapid, but the water 
 runs with great velocity, and may be estimated to * 
 have a mean descent of two feet per mile. This is 
 equal to the Mississippi, below the junction of the 
 Missouri. We were five days engaged in the as- 
 cent, without, however, devoting much time to the 
 examination of the contiguous country. The width 
 of the river is eight hundred yards at its mouth, and 
 decreases to about four hundred at the portage. — A 
 chain of limestone hills extends from the Mississip- 
 pi, on each shore, to within twenty miles of the 
 portage, where it ceases on the south shore, but con- 
 tinues on the north, receding, however, a consider- 
 able distance from the river. This tract is called 
 the Highlands of the Ousconsing. In passing 
 through it, the river presents a number of interest- 
 ing and picturesque views, the most striking of which 
 is that, of the Sugar Loaf mountain, and La Petit 
 Grist The geological character of this tract of 
 country, presents little variety. A dark grey com* 
 
 46
 
 362 
 
 pact limestone, forms the surface rock, and is bed- 
 ded on white sandstone. The former, is, however, 
 so far as observed, destitute of organic remains, 
 and perhaps, the latter, might be considered as a 
 variety of grauwacke. There are some scattered 
 lumps of iron ore upon the hills, and a lead mine is 
 reported to exist upon the south shore, about eighty 
 miles east of the Mississippi. The Indians also re- 
 port that they have frequently found copper and 
 silver upon this river, but the guides who accom- 
 panied us, with a pro.nise to discover the localities 
 of these minerals, either amused us with idle tales, 
 or avoided conducting us to the places, where these 
 metals may, in reality, exist ; by stating a great many 
 difficulties and excuses. A Winnebago Indian, who 
 had promised to bring in a specimen of silver ore, 
 presented, with great ceremony, to Governor Cass, 
 some small detached folia of mica, and the 
 same substance, in its natural association in granitic 
 rock. This shows, what little reliance can be pla- 
 ced upon Indian information, with respect to mine- 
 ralogy, even when their veracity is not called in 
 question. It would be well, however, if, in regard 
 to the mineral kingdom, only, this people had not 
 yet adopted the maxim, that " all is not gold that 
 glitters." 
 
 The Ousconsing is ascended in canoes ninety 
 miles above the portage, and is connected by 
 short portages, with the Ontonagon, and Mon- 
 treal rivers of Lake Superior. The largest wild 
 animals now found along its banks, are the deer, 
 the bear, and the fox. The elk, and buffalo, have 
 been driven off many years ago. Neither is it a fa-; 
 vourite resort of water fowl, which is probably ow- 
 ing to the fact, that it does not afford the wild rice, a(
 
 3G3 
 
 least, in any considerable quantity. Geese and 
 ducks occasionally alight in it, on their migratory 
 journies, but do not tarry long. We observed the 
 snipe, plover, grouse, king-fisher, wild turkey, and 
 some smaller birds. Two kinds of rattlesnake are 
 also found along its banks. The first, which in- 
 habits the hills, is the cro talus horridus, and at- 
 tains a large size. 1 killed one, in coming up the 
 river, measuring four feet in length, and furnished 
 with nine ratlles. The Indians, on opening it, took 
 out eleven young. The other variety is small, sel- 
 dom exceeding eighteen inches in length, and is 
 confined to the lowlands and prairies. This is call- 
 ed the prairie rattlesnake, and is common about the 
 portage. 
 
 This river was formerly inhabited by the Sacs and 
 Foxes, who raised large quantities of corn and 
 beans upon its fertile shores, but they were driven 
 off by the Chippeways, instigated by the French. — 
 It is now possessed by the Winnebagoes, a savage, 
 and blood-thirsty tribe, who came, many years ago, 
 from the south, and are related to some of the Mex- 
 ican tribes. Their largest village, upon this stream, 
 is three or four miles above the portage, and con- 
 sists of forty lodges. 
 
 The length of the portage, from the Ousconsing, 
 to the Fox river, is a mile and a half, across a 
 level prairie. There is a good waggon road, and a 
 Frenchman lives on the spot, who keeps a number 
 of horses and cattle, for the transportation of bag- 
 gage, for which twenty-five cents per hundred weight, 
 is demanded. Such is the little difference in the level 
 of the two streams, that during high-water, canoes 
 frequently pass, loaded, acro^ the lowest parts of
 
 obi 
 
 the prairie, from one river to the other. The por 
 tage is very muddy in the spring and fall, being over 
 a rich alluvial soil, but we found it dry, and pleas 
 ant. 
 
 LXXXiV. Daw— (August 15th.)— We embarked 
 at the head of Fox river, at half past three in the 
 afternoon, and descended fifteen miles to the Forks. 
 The river in this distance, is about twenty yards 
 wide, but often expands into little lakes, or ponds, 
 and is extremely devious in its course. It is filled 
 with wild rice, which so chokes up the channel, 
 that it is difficult to find a passage through it. The 
 shores slope up gently from the water's edge, and 
 are covered with scattering oaks, and prairie grass, 
 but they do not attain much elevation, and disclose 
 no rock strata. 
 
 LXXXV Dw.—iJugust IGth.)— Thirty miles be- 
 low its forks, the Fox river expands into a lake, 
 called Lac du Bocuf, which is nine miles in length, 
 by one and a half in width, and abounds in wild 
 rice. Twelve miles lower, the river expands into 
 another lake, called Puckaway, which is twelve 
 miles long, by two in width. This is also filled with 
 wild rice, and rushes, and with abundance of water 
 fowl in the season. There is a village of Puants 
 or Winnebagoes, of seven or eight lodges, on the 
 west shore. We encamped at the foot of this lake, 
 having descended the river sixty-three miles. The 
 course of the river is less serpentine than about its 
 source, but the channel continues to be filled with 
 wild rice, reeds, and bulrushes. The adjoining 
 country lies in gentle slopes, and is finely diversified
 
 365 
 
 with woods and prairies. It appears to be well 
 adapted to the raising of stock, and any quantity of 
 grass might be cut on the prairies. The soil is of 
 the richest kind, and is capable of supporting a 
 dense agricultural population. 
 
 LXXXVI. Day.— {August 17th.)— Fox river, which 
 has scarcely a perceptible current above Lake 
 Puckaway, has a visible one, below it, where its 
 mean velocity may be reckoned at one miie per hour. 
 A few miles below our encampment, we passed three 
 Winnebago lodges on the right bank, and a short 
 distance lower down, five more on the left. The 
 forest here becomes heavier, and approaches nearer 
 the margin of the river, and among its trees, we here 
 first noticed the poplar and the birch. The river 
 De Loup joins the Fox river, twenty-eight miles be- 
 low Puckaway lake, and there is a grass-covered 
 hili near the point of junction, called La Butte de 
 Jllort, or the hillock of the dead, where the Fox na- 
 tion were nearly exterminated many years ago, by 
 the French and Chippeways. It is now the site of a 
 small Winnebago village, and affords a picturesque 
 view from the river. We encamped seventeen 
 leagues below this spot, on the left shore, having 
 descended the river seventy miles. 
 
 LXXXVII. Day.— (August nth.)— The night was 
 remarkably cold, with a dense fog in the morning, 
 and we now first enjoyed an exemption from the at- 
 tacks of the musquitoes. We embarked at half past 
 five, A. M. — wild rice continues along the shores — 
 the stream increases in width — no rocks in situ — 
 some pebbles and detached blocks of hornblende
 
 366 
 
 granite, and limestone along the shore — also, an 
 abundance of muscle and cockle shells. — Trees, 
 oak, maple, and hickory. — Soil, a rich alluvion. 
 
 On descending fifteen miles, we passed the mouth 
 of the Menomonie or Wolf river, which is nearly of 
 equal size with the Fox, and is noted for its abundant 
 production of wild rice, and the myriads of wild 
 fowl, that resort to it, at certain seasons. Five miles 
 below the junction of these streams, we entered 
 Winnebago lake, at ten o'clock in the morning. — 
 This is a handsome sheet of clear water, twenty- 
 four miles long, by ten in width. It receives a con- 
 siderable tributary on the south, called Crocodile or 
 Rice river, which is connected by means of a short 
 portage, with the Rock river of the Mississippi. — 
 Near the upper end of this lake, there is a village of 
 Winnebagoes, of ten lodges, and another, of a like 
 number of lodges, at its outlet. There is also a vil- 
 lage of Menomonies, of sixty souls, on the south- 
 ern shore, about half way between the lower Puant 
 village, and the mouth of Crocodile river. The 
 Fox river, where it issues from Winnebago lake, has 
 a rapid, extending a mile and a half, over which the 
 canoes pass, with half loads. We here entrusted 
 our canoes to Indian pilots, and proceeded on foot, 
 to the termination of the rapids. Nine miles below, 
 is the fall of the grand Konomee, where the river 
 lias a perpendicular descent of five feet. Here is a 
 portage of one mile. The canoes are lifted over 
 the falls, and conducted to the place of embarka- 
 tion below. The fall is over a ledge of limestone 
 rock, apparently of the transition class. Some cal- 
 careous spar is found imbedded. The entire de- 
 scent of the river at this portage, is probably fifteen 
 feet. We encamped at the foot of the grand Ko-
 
 367 
 
 nomee, some time after dark, having progressed al- 
 together sixty miles. 
 
 LXXXVIII. Day.— (Jugust 19/A.)— It is twelve 
 miles from the Grand Konomee to the falls of Ka- 
 kalin, during which distance, the bed of the river 
 is full of fragments of rock, with shallow water ; and 
 may be considered at this season, as one contin- 
 ued rapid. The river is skirted by alluvial ridges, 
 covered with white and black oak, and prairie 
 grass. This deposition rests upon calcareous rock, 
 which appears in horizontal strata at the water's 
 edge, and in the bed of the river. It contains no 
 imbedded remains, but, on breaking it, discloses mi- 
 nute cavities, filled with calcareous spar in a variety 
 of crystalline forms, and often connected with iron 
 pyrites. Disseminated through the rock, are also 
 found, small particles of sulphuret of zinc, or black 
 blende. These appearances are particularly appa- 
 rent, in the flat rocks at the Kakalin, and for two or 
 three miles above, on the north shore. In descend- 
 ing this part of the river, we cannot avoid remark- 
 ing, the immense quantity of muscle shells scatter- 
 ed along the shore, and sometimes piled up in the 
 bed of the stream. On enquiring of the Indians the 
 cause of this singular appearance, they observed, 
 that the muscle is the common food of the muskrat, 
 which fishes for these Crustacea, in the bed of the 
 stream, and carrying them to the mouth of its hab-. 
 itation, upon the banks of the river, there opens 
 them upon one spot. We reached the Kakalin at 
 noon, and found it the site of a Winnebago village 
 of eleven or twelve lodges, and two hundred souls. 
 There is a portage of one mile, across a level prai-
 
 3«8 
 
 rie, and the river has an aggregate descent of twen- 
 ty feet. We proceeded eight miles below, and en- 
 camped on the north shore, having descended but 
 twenty miles during the day. This is owing to the 
 low stage of the water, and the difficulties of the 
 rapids, which have been such, that we were compel- 
 led to leave our barge upon the rocks, between the 
 rapids of the Konomec and the Kakalin. 
 
 LXXXIX. Day.— (August, 20th.)— A heavy fog 
 in the morning, prevented us from quitting our en- 
 campment until seven o'clock. — Six miles below, we 
 passed the rapids of the little Kakalin, which, how- 
 ever, oppose no serious obstacle to the navigation 
 of the river, on the descent. Here, we found a small 
 party of United States soldiers, who were engaged 
 in preparing the foundation for a saAv mill, which is 
 to be erected at that spot for the accommodation of 
 the garrison, and settlement at Green Bay. There 
 is another small rapid, seven miles below, called 
 Rock rapid, from which it is five more to the garri- 
 son, where we arrived at one o'clock P. M. The 
 settlement of Green Bay commences at the little 
 Kakalin, twelve miles above the fort ; and is very 
 compact, from the Rock rapid. Here, we are first 
 presented with a view of the fort ; and nothing can 
 exceed the beauty of the intermediate country — 
 chequered as it is, with farm houses, fences, culti- 
 vated fields, the broad expanse of the river — the 
 bannered masts of the vessels in the distant bay, 
 and the warlike array of military barracks, camps, 
 and parades. This scene burst suddenly into view, 
 and no combination of objects in the physiognomy 
 of a country, could be more happily arranged, af-
 
 369 
 
 terso long a sojournment in the wilderness, to recall 
 at once to the imagination, the most pleasing recol- 
 lections of civilized life; and indeed, the circum- 
 stances of our return, would have produced a high 
 degree of exhilaration ; without the additional ex- 
 citements of military music, which now saluted our 
 ears, and the peals of artillery which hid us wel- 
 come to the fort. 
 
 The settlement of Green Bay is one of ancient 
 standing, having been first begun by the French 
 about the year 1670. It now consists of sixty dwel- 
 ling houses, and five hundred inhabitants, exclusive 
 of the garrison. There are seventy of the inhabit- 
 ants enrolled as militia men, and it is said fifty more 
 will be added during the ensuing year, who are 
 now subject to military duty. The inhabitants are, 
 with few exceptions, French, who have intermar- 
 ried with Indian women, and are said generally, to 
 be indolent, gay, intemperate, and illiterate; but 
 I cannot speak from personal observation. They 
 are represented to have been subservient to the in- 
 terests of the British, during the late war. This set- 
 tlement is now the seat of justice for Brown coun- 
 ty, in the territory of Michigan, and the ordinary 
 courts of law are established. 
 
 The tort is situated on a handsome grassy plain, 
 on the north bank of Fox river, near the point of its 
 entrance into Green Bay. It consists of a range of 
 log barracks, facing three sides of a square parade, 
 and surrounded by a stockade of timber, thirty feet 
 high, with block houses at the angles. The whole 
 is white washed, and presents a neat military appear- 
 ance. It is at present garrisoned by three hundred 
 
 47
 
 370 
 
 men, under Captain Whistler, who has the tempora- 
 ry command of the post, during the absence of Colo- 
 nel J L. Smith. There are also about three hundred 
 infantry, in cantonments, at Camp Smith, three 
 miles above fort Brown, on the south side of the 
 river, where preparations are making to erect a per- 
 manent fortification of stone, during the ensuing year. 
 The site chosen for the work is extremely beautiful, 
 airy, and commanding A party of men have been em- 
 ployed during the summer, in quarrying the building 
 stone, near the Rock rapid. On visiting this quarry, 
 I found it to consist of a bluish-grey limestone, semi- 
 crystalline in its structure, and containing small dis- 
 seminated masses of blende, sometimes in cavities 
 along with calcareous spar, and iron pyrites. 
 
 XC. Day. — (August 2lst.) — Fox river has been 
 characterized by one of the oldest writers on Amer- 
 ican topography,* as " a muddy stream, abounding 
 equally in rocks and savannahs, and inclosed with a 
 steep coast, and frightful rocks," but these traits, al- 
 though generally characteristic of the river, are not 
 all applicable to any individual sections of it; for 
 wherever its banks are muddy or marshy, there are 
 no rock strata, and in passing over those shallows, 
 where the latter crop out, particularly in a birch- 
 bark canoe, and during the summer season, when 
 the water is lowest, the term " frightful" will con- 
 vey a just idea of the dangers and difficulties of the 
 navigation. 
 
 The entire length of this river is two hundred and 
 sixty miles, fifty of which consist of lakes. Its mos* 
 
 *La Hontan, p. Ill, vol. 1.
 
 371 
 
 extreme northwestern tributary is the outlet ot 
 Lac Vaseux, which unites with the portage branch, 
 after running thirty miles in a southeasterly direc- 
 tion. This point is called the Forks of the river, 
 and is fifteen miles distant from the portage of the 
 Ousconsing. It is a hundred and ninety miles from 
 thence to the outlet of Winnebago lake, in which 
 distance it is swelled by the Menomonie, Deloup, and 
 several smaller streams, and expands into a number 
 of little lakes, the largest of which are Puckaway 
 and Du Bceuf. This is the favourite region of wild 
 rice, and water fowl, and during all this distance, 
 the river has neither a fall or a rapid, but runs with 
 so still a current, that it has scarcely a perceptible 
 motion. Neither are the rock strata upon which the 
 soil is based, at any spot visible ; but as far as the 
 eye can reach, the country presents a beautiful va- 
 riety of woods and prairies — long sloping hills, 
 which are crowned with copses of oak, and exten- 
 sive vallies, covered with a luxuriant growth of the 
 wild rice, the scirpus lucustris, and other aquatic 
 plants. Through such a valley, the Fox river pur- 
 sues its broad, still, and devious course, and is so 
 prolific in the various species of water plants, that 
 often, where it is a mile in width, there is scarce 
 open space enough in its centre, to allow r the pas- 
 sage of a canoe ; but it has every where a fine 
 depth of water, and is free from stagnation. Here, 
 as the rice begins to ripen, the various tribes of wa- 
 ter fowl instinctively repair, to dispute, with the 
 savages, their claims to the harvest, and are killed 
 in such numbers, that the Indians, while the season 
 lasts, are not put to the trouble of hunting for any 
 other description of animal food. The region is al-
 
 372 
 
 so highly favourable to the innumerable tribes of 
 fresh water crustacae, reptiles, and amphibious 
 quadrupeds. Among the latter, the otter, mink, 
 and muskrat are still common; but the beaver and 
 martin, once so numerous, are becoming very rare. 
 The soil is every where of the most fertile kind. 
 
 On approaching the foot of Winnebago lake, we 
 perceive a ridge of highlands running parallel with 
 its eastern shore, and apparently barricading the 
 passage of the river in that direction, which, as if 
 conscious of the obstruction, first turns to the north, 
 but gradually winds about to the east, and south 
 east, and passing through this ridge is bordered 
 with elevated, and, in some places, rocky banks, 
 and the channel is broken by the Konomee falls, 
 and by the Winnebago, the little, and grand Kaka- 
 lin, and the Rock rapids. The distance occupied 
 by these obstructions, (from the outlet of Winnebago 
 lake to the Rock rapids.) is forty miles, and the na- 
 vigation of this part of it, during the summer season, 
 is attended with difficulty and fatigue. 
 
 This is the section of the river " inclosed with a 
 steep coast and frightful rocks," but the latter pre- 
 sent no formidable obstacle to the navigation, during 
 the spring and fall ; and the coast, although elevated 
 two or three hundred feet, is lar from being sterile, 
 or mountainous. The soil is a red loam, supporting 
 a heavy forest of oak, pine, hickory, and maple, and 
 interspersed with occasional patches of highland 
 prairie. This part of the river has very little wild 
 rice, but is abundantly stored with white and black 
 bass, carp, pike, suckers, and other fish; and is re- 
 sorted to by the Indians with a certain prospect of 
 sustenance, during a part of the year.
 
 373 
 
 From the Rock rapid to Green Bay, a distance 
 ©f six miles, the river flows with a smooth current — 
 is more than a mile wide, and is joined, in the inter- 
 mediate distance, by two considerable streams, call- 
 ed Devil and Duck rivers, the former of which en- 
 ters on the south shore, directly opposite the site of 
 old fort Le Bay. 
 
 There is perhaps no stream, of secondary 
 magnitude, in the northwestern parts of Amer- 
 ica, which affords so many facilities to savage 
 life, or which actually supports so great a sa- 
 vage population, as Fox river; and taking into con- 
 sideration the great fertility and extent of its tillable 
 soil — the rural beauty of the country — its advan- 
 tageous position for commerce, either with the north 
 or south, and its salubrious and delightful climate, 
 it will probably hereafter, when the Indian tribes 
 yield before an industrious emigration, support one 
 of the most compact, extensive, and valuable agri- 
 cultural settlements in the Michigan territory. 
 
 The junction of this river with Green Bay, affords 
 one of the most favourable positions for witnessing 
 a phenomenon, which has attracted the attention of 
 travellers from the earliest times, without, however, 
 having, as yet, elicited any very satisfactory explica- 
 tion of an apparently reversed order of nature. I 
 allude to the appearances of a regular tide at this 
 place, but in so doing, it is more with a view of pre- 
 senting an outline of those facts which have been 
 observed by others, than of entering into any disqui- 
 sition on the subject myself. 
 
 In the year 1689, the Baron La Hontan, on reach- 
 ing Green Bay, remarks, that where the Fox river 
 is discharged into the bay, he observed the water 
 of the lake swell three feet high, in the space of
 
 374 
 
 hverfty-four hours, and decrease as much in the same 
 length of time. He also noticed a contrariety, and 
 connection of currents in the narrow strait which 
 connects lakes Huron and Michigan, which he says, 
 4t are so strong, that they sometimes suck in the fish- 
 ing nets, although they are two or three leagues off. 
 In some seasons, it so falls out, that the currents 
 run three days eastward — two days to the west — 
 one, to the south — and four to the northward; some- 
 times more, and sometimes less. The cause of this 
 diversity of currents could never be fathomed, for 
 in a calm, they will run in the space of one day, to 
 all points of the compass, without any limitation of 
 time, so that the decision of this matter must be left 
 to the disciples of Copernicus."* 
 
 In 1721, Charlevoix remarks similar appearances, 
 but treats the subject with unusual brevity, evidently, 
 from the difficulties which occurred to him, in giving 
 any satisfactory explanation. He supposes lakes Hu- 
 ron and Michigan to be alternately discharged into 
 each other through the strait of Michilimackinac, 
 and mentions the fact, that in passing that strait, 
 his canoe was carried with the current against a 
 head wind. In another place, in speaking of an appa- 
 rent flux and reflux of the lakes, he supposes that it 
 was " owing to the springs at the bottom of the lakes, 
 and to the shock of their currents, with those of the 
 rivers, which fall into them from all sides, and thus 
 produce those intermitting motions.! 
 
 In 1819, Captain Henry Whiting, of the United 
 
 *La Honlan's voyages to Canada. 
 /Charlevoix's Journals vol. 1. p. 314.
 
 375 
 
 States army, made a series of observations during 
 seven or eight days, upon these oceanic appear- 
 ances, which serve to shew, that the water at Green 
 Bay, has a rise and fall daily, but that it is irre- 
 gular as to the precise period of flux and reflux, anl 
 also as to the height it attains. 
 
 On reaching Green Bay, during the present expe- 
 dition, Governor Cass directed one of the men, to 
 drive a stake at the water's edge, upon the banks of 
 Fox river, at the spot of our encampment, which 
 was a mile above its discharge into the bay, and to 
 mark the height of the water. It appeared, from 
 frequently inspecting this gauge, during the period 
 of our stay, which was, however, but two days, that 
 there was a considerable rise and fall of the water — 
 that there was a difference as to the time consumed 
 in passing from its minimum to its maximum height, 
 and that although it arose against a strong wind blow- 
 ing out of the river, the rise, under these circum- 
 stances was less, than in ordinary cases. 
 
 From all these circumstances, there is reason to 
 conclude, that a well conducted series of experi- 
 ments, will prove, that there are no regular tides in 
 the lakes, at least, that they do not ebb and flow- 
 twice in twenty-four hours, like those of the ocean — 
 that the oscillating motion of the waters is not at- 
 tributable to planetary attraction — that it is very va- 
 riable as to the periods of its flux and reflux, depend- 
 ing upon the levels of the several lakes, their length, 
 depth, direction, and conformation — upon the pre- 
 valent winds and temperatures, and upon other ex- 
 traneous causes, which are in some measure varia- 
 ble in their nature, and unsteady in their operation. 
 
 Lake Michigan, from its great depth of water—
 
 376 
 
 its bleak and unguarded shores— and its singular 
 length and direction, which is about four hundred 
 miles from north to south, appears to be peculiarly 
 exposed to the influence of the currents of the at- 
 mosphere, to whose agency we may attribute, at 
 least in part, the appearances of a tide, which are 
 more striking upon the shores of this, than of any 
 of the other great lakes. The meteorological ob- 
 servations which have been made, in the Transalle- 
 ghanicm states, indicate the winds to prevail, either 
 north or south, through the valley of the Mississip- 
 pi ; but seldom across it, so that the surface of this 
 lake, would be constantly exposed to agitation, from 
 the atmosphere. These winds would almost inces- 
 santly operate, to drive the waters through the nar- 
 row strait of Michilimackinac, either into lake 
 Huron or lake Michigan, until, by their natural ten- 
 dency to an equilibrium, the waters thus pent t 
 would re-act, after attaining a certain height, against 
 the current of the most powerful winds, and thus keep 
 up an alternate flux and reflux, which would always 
 appear more sensibly in the extremities and bays of 
 the two lakes ; and with something like regularity, as 
 to the periods of oscillation ; the velocity of the 
 water, however, being governed by the varying de- 
 grees of the force of the winds. 
 
 Something analogous to this, is perceived in the 
 Baltic, which has no regular tides, and therefore 
 experiences no difference of height, except when 
 the wind blows violently. " At such times," says 
 Pennant, " there is a current in, and out of the Bal- 
 tic, according to the points they blow from, which 
 forces the water through the sound, with the veloci- 
 ty of two or three Danish miles in the hour. When
 
 377 
 
 the wind blows violently, from the German sea, the 
 water rises in several Baltic harbours, and gives 
 those in the western part, a temporary saltness ; oth- 
 erwise, the Baltic looses that other property of a sea, 
 by reason of the want of tide, and the quantity of 
 vast rivers it receives, which sweeten it so much, 
 as to render it, in many places, fit for domestic 
 
 48
 
 CHAPTER XiV. 
 J O U R JV E F, 
 
 FROM GREEjY BAY TO CHICAGO. 
 
 XCI. Day.— {August 22c/.) 
 
 fjN reaching Green Bay, the escort of soldiers, 
 which had thus far accompanied us, and the Indians, 
 who were taken along as hunters, were no longer 
 deemed necessary, either to our sustenance or safety ; 
 and the former were ordered to join their respect- 
 ive companies, in the garrison, while the latter were 
 furnished with a canoe and provisions, to proceed, 
 at their own convenience, to their homes, on the 
 eastern shores of Lake Michigan. We here, also, 
 embraced the opportunity of shipping to Detroit* 
 our collections, in the different departments of na- 
 tural history, and a part of our personal baggage, 
 &c. by the schooner Decatur, which sailed from the 
 bay the morning after our arrival. Thus reduced 
 in numbers, and lightened of baggage, the expedi- 
 tion was still further diminished by detaching a ca- 
 noe with eight men, under the orders of Mr. Trow- 
 bridge, accompanied by Mr. Doty, and Mr. Chase, 
 to proceed around the western shores of Green 
 Bay, to Michilimackinac; while the remainder of the 
 party, still numbering two canoes, and sixteen men.
 
 379 
 
 coasted southerly to Chicago, and thence around 
 the eastern shores of Lake Michigan, to Michili- 
 mackinac. 
 
 We parted from Mr. Trowbridge, at the mouth of 
 Fox river, at half past two in the afternoon, and 
 proceeding along the eastern shore of Green Bay 
 twenty five miles encamped on the beach at twilight. 
 The shore is a fertile alluvion, covered with su«:ar 
 maple, elm, oak, hemlock, and poplar. The bay has 
 a sandy beach, and transparent waters. In a short 
 time we were overtaken by the Indians, who had 
 recently constituted a part of the expedition, and 
 they encamped with us. In the course of the eve- 
 ning, they endeavoured to point out to us by moon- 
 light, a rocky island, at three or four miles distance, 
 in which there is a large cavern, which has been 
 employed, by their tribes, from the remotest times, 
 as a repository for the dead. They appeared to 
 regard the spot, as the monument of a long race of 
 heroes, sages, and warriors, whose deeds were de- 
 servedly embalmed in the memories of a grateful 
 posterity; and spoke of it in a manner, evincing a 
 high spirit of ancestry ; and, as if, like the castle of 
 Fredolfo, it borrowed all its lustre from the heroes 
 whom it enshrined. 
 
 " It hath a charm the stranger knovveth not — 
 
 "It is the dwelling of mine ancestry I 
 
 " There is an inspiration in its shade; 
 
 "The echoes of its walls are eloquent, 
 
 " The words they speak, are of the glorious dead 3 
 
 " Its tenants are not human— they are more ! 
 
 " The stones have voices, and the walls do live, 
 
 " It is the house of memories dearly honoured, 
 
 i( By many a long trace of departed glory." 
 
 Matuiun.
 
 380 
 
 XCIf. Day.— -(diigust 2:d.)—lt is twenty miles 
 from the spot of our encampment, to Sturgeon bay, 
 which is six miles wide and fifteen in length, narrow* 
 ing gradually towards its head, where it receives a 
 small stream. From this spot, there is a portage of 
 three pauses, across the peninsula, to Lake Michi- 
 gan, where we arrived at an early hour in the after- 
 noon, but were prevented from embarking, by a 
 strong head wind. The shore of the lake is alluvi- 
 al, with a sandy beach, strewed w ith fragments and 
 pebbles of primitive and secondary rocks, among 
 which are found water worn masses of greasy, and 
 translucent quartz, chalcedony, petrified madre- 
 pores, &c. The forest trees are maple, beech, hem- 
 lock, &c. 
 
 XCIII. Day. — (August 2ith.) — Following around 
 the numerous indentations of the shore, we pro- 
 gressed, in a general direction south, forty six miles. 
 In the course of the day, we passed the mouth of a 
 small river, flowing from the west, called La Four- 
 che. Among the forest trees, the beech (fagus fcr- 
 ruginea) has been conspicuous : oak, pine, poplar, 
 birch, hemlock, and maple, have also been abun- 
 dant. The banks of the lake are a sandy alluvion, 
 reposing upon transition limestone, which is occa- 
 sionally seen in ledges, elevated two or three feet 
 above the water, upon the prominent points of the 
 shore. Petrifactions, continue to be found, lying 
 promiscuously among fragments of granite, horn- 
 blende, sienite, quartz, limestone, frc. 
 
 XIV. Day. — (August 25th-) — Tn coasting forty miles 
 along the shore, we came to the mouth of a large
 
 381 
 
 stream, called Manitowacky, where there is a vil- 
 lage of Menomonie Indians, ot six lodges. Five 
 miles beyond, we encamped upon the beach, ha- 
 ving progressed fifteen leagues, as indicated by a 
 lunar observation. The country consists of a suc- 
 cession of sand hills, covered with pine. The 
 banks of the lake are elevated from twenty to sixty 
 feet, with a broad sand beach, strewed with gra- 
 nitic and calcareous pebbles, &c. In walking along 
 some parts of the shore, I observed a great number 
 of the skeletons and half consumed bodies of the 
 pigeon, which, in crossing the lake, is often overta- 
 ken by severe tempests, and compelled to alight 
 upon the water, and thus drowned, in entire flocks, 
 which are soon thrown up along the shores. This 
 causes the shores of Lake Michigan to be visited by 
 vast numbers of buzzards, eagles, and other birds 
 of prey. The Indians also make use of these pigeons, 
 as food, when they are first driven ashore, preserving 
 such in smoke, as they have not immediate occasion 
 for. Vast broods of young gulls, are also destroyed 
 during the violent storms, which frequently agitate 
 this lake. 
 
 XCV. Day. — (August 26th) — Progressed forty- 
 three miles, and encamped, some time after dark, 
 at the mouth of Milwacky river. This is a stream 
 of sixty yards wide at its mouth, and is ascended a 
 hundred miles in canoes, being connected by a 
 short portage, with the Rock river of the Mississip- 
 pi : — a route frequently travelled in canoes, by the 
 Pottowatomies and Menomonies. There are two 
 American families, and a village of Pottowatomies, 
 at its mouth. It is the division line between the
 
 3«2 
 
 lands of the Menomonies and Pottowatomies ; the 
 latter claim all south of it. 
 
 XCVI. Day -(dugust 27th.)— \ head wind detain- 
 ed us a considerable part of the day, but we ad- 
 vanced thirty-five miles, passing, in that distance, 
 the Sac and hkeboigon rivers. Five miles south of 
 the Mil wacky, there is found a bed of white clay 
 upon the shore of the lake ; and a short distance 
 back, in a prairie, a vein of red oxide of iron, both 
 of which substances, are much employed by the In- 
 dians, as paints. Fifteen miles further south, com- 
 mences a range of high clay bluffs, covered with 
 sand, on the verge of the lake, which extend, with 
 occasional depressions, fifteen or twenty miles. At 
 the foot of this, at the water's edge, there is a large 
 body of pyrites, of a brass yellow colour — great 
 weight, and crystallized in a variety of regular forms, 
 the most common of which is a cube, truncated at 
 the angles. Some of these crystals are six or eight 
 pounds in weight, with an imposing metallic lustre. 
 They occur in beds in a tenacious blue clay, from 
 which they are washed by the waves, and left in 
 promiscuous piles along the shore, where, being ex- 
 posed to attrition, their crystalline forms are gradu- 
 ally obliterated, and they assume, at last, the shape 
 of spheroidal and globular pebbles, parting, also, in 
 the course of this process, with their natural exter- 
 nal lustre. It is only those masses, which are newly 
 exposed, that present, under the deceptive glare of 
 polished brass, those beautiful geometrical solids, 
 which sulphur, in its various associations and com- 
 binations, in the mineral kingdom, so frequently 
 assumes. At the spot of our encampment, thirty-
 
 383 
 
 five miles south of Mil wacky, I found a singular li- 
 quid mineral, resembling asphaltum, contained in 
 cavities in a calcareous rock. Where it had suffer- 
 ed a natural exposure to the weather, it had the 
 colour and consistence of dried tar, but on obtain- 
 ing a fresh fracture, it was so liquid as to flow from 
 the cavities, and presented an olive brown colour, 
 inclining to black. 
 
 XCVII. Dm.— (August 28//L)— Proceeded forty 
 miles. The shore, during this distance, is princi- 
 pally prairie, upon which the oak tree predom- 
 inates. In some instances, there are hillocks of 
 sand, either wholly destitute of vegetation, or cap- 
 ped with scattering pines. Among the detached 
 rocks of the shore, are found, calcareous spar, crys- 
 tallized quartz, cacholong, jasper, toadstone. &c. 
 
 XCVIII. Day.— (August 29th).— We reached Chi- 
 cago at five o'clock in the morning, after proceeding 
 ten miles. The village consists of ten or twelve 
 dwelling houses, with an aggregate population, of 
 probably, sixty souls. The garrison stands on the 
 south shore of Chicago creek, four or five hundred 
 yards from its entrance into the lake, and, like the 
 majority of our frontier posts, consists of a square 
 stockade, inclosing barracks, quarters for the offi- 
 cers, a magazine, provision store, &c. and defend- 
 ed by bastions at the northwest, and southeast an- 
 gles. Tt is at present occupied by a hundred and 
 sixty men, under the command of Captain Brad- 
 ley. 
 
 The village of Chicago is situated in the state of 
 Illinois, the northern boundary line of which, com-
 
 3U 
 
 mcnces, on the lake shore, about twenty miles 
 north of the fort, and running due west, strikes 
 the Mississippi between Dubuque's lead mines, and 
 Prairie du Chien. It is two hundred and seventy- 
 five miles, from Chicago to Green Bay, by the way 
 of the lakes, and the portage of Sturgeon bay — and 
 four hundred to the island of Michilimackinac. 
 
 Chicago creek is eighty yards wide, at the garri- 
 son, and has a bar at its mouth, which prevents 
 shipping from entering, but is deep within. It is as- 
 cended eleven miles in boats, and barges, where 
 there is a portage of seven miles across a prairie, 
 to the river Plein, the main northwestern fork of 
 the Illinois. 
 
 The intervening country consists of different stra- 
 ta of marl and clay, presenting great facilities for 
 canal excavation, and the difference in the level of 
 the two streams is so little, that loaded boats of 
 a small class, may pass over the lowest parts of the 
 prairie, during the spring, and autumnal freshets. — 
 But at mid-summer, it is necessary to transport them, 
 over land, to mount Juliet, a distance of thirty 
 miles. From thence the navigation is good, at all 
 seasons, to St. Louis, a distance of four hundred 
 miles. 
 
 XCIX. Day.— (JurrustZOih.)— The country around 
 Chicago is the most fertile and beautiful that can 
 be imagined. It consists of an intermixture of woods 
 and prairies, diversified with gentle slopes, some- 
 times attaining the elevation of hills, and irrigated 
 with a number of clear streams and rivers, which 
 throw their waters partly into lake Michigan, and 
 partly into the Mississippi river. As a farming 
 

 
 385 
 
 country, it unites the fertile soil, of the finest low- 
 land prairies, with an elevation, which exempts it 
 from the influence of stagnant waters, and a sum- 
 mer climate of delightful serenity; while its natural 
 meadows present all the advantages tor raising stock,of 
 the most favoured part of the valley of the Mississippi. 
 It is already the seat of several flourishing planta- 
 tions, and only requires the extinguishment of the 
 Indian title to the lands, to become one of the most 
 attractive fields for the emigrant. To the ordinary 
 advantages of an agricultural market town, it must, 
 hereafter, add that of a depot, for the inland com- 
 merce, between the northern and southern sections 
 of the union, and a great thoroughfare for stran- 
 gers, merchants, and travellers. 
 
 There is a valuable and extensive bed of mineral 
 coal, about forty miles southwest of Chicago, on 
 the Fox river of the Illinois, near the point of its 
 embouchure. The stratum of coal, which appears 
 on the banks of the river, is said to have an exten- 
 sive range towards the northwest, and is only cov- 
 ered by a light deposit of alluvial soil, of a few feet 
 in thickness. There is also, about twenty miles 
 north of Chicago, a bed of red oxide of iron, in a 
 state of great purity, and its preparation as a pig- 
 ment, may be expected to result from the influx of 
 emigrants. Pyrites, are also very common in this 
 vicinity, yet, it is a singular tact, that the bricks at 
 Chicago, which are manufactured from the earth, 
 taken up on the banks of the creek, burn white, like 
 the Stourbridge fire-bricks, indicating, as I am led 
 to conclude, an absence of iron, in any of its nu- 
 merous forms of combination, at least, in the usual 
 
 -19
 
 386 
 
 degree. All our common clays burn with some 
 tint, however light, of red, which has been referred, 
 by chemical writers, with much precision, to the 
 presence of oxid of iron. 
 
 There is said to be a petrified hickory tree in the 
 bed of the river Kankakee, near its junction with 
 the Illinois, forty-five miles by land, and sixty by 
 the course of the river, from Chicago. It is entire, 
 and partly imbedded in the calcareous rock, forming 
 the bed of the Kankakee. 
 
 The open nature of the country around Chicago, 
 exposes it to piercing winds during the winter 
 months, although the same cause, contributes to 
 render it a delightful residence during the summer 
 season. The following is an abstract of a meteo- 
 rological register, kept by Dc ctor Wolcott, at Chi- 
 cago, during the first quarter of the present year. 
 
 Atmospheric Heat. 
 
 Average Temperature. 
 
 Av. Temp. 
 
 Av. Temp. 
 
 1820. at 9 a.m. 
 
 at 2 p. m. 
 
 at 9 p. m. 
 
 Jan. 14° 
 
 18° 
 
 14° 
 
 Feb. 29° 
 
 36° 
 
 30° 
 
 M'r.(tol5)27° 
 
 32° 
 
 25° 
 
 Winds. 
 
 Jan. w. 8 days, w. n. w. 5, w. s. w. 10, n. n. e. 6, e. n. e. 2. 
 
 Feb. E. 7, s. w. ?, w. 5, s. 2, s. e. 2, w s. w. 3, E. n. e. 2. 
 
 Mar. (to 15) n.n. w. 3, e. n. e. 4, n. n. e.2, n. e.2, s. w. 2.n.w.2. 
 
 Weather. 
 
 Jan. cloudy 6, — snow storms 6, — clear 19, 
 
 Feb. cloudy 8, — rain 4, — clear 17, 
 
 M'r. (to 1 5) cloudy 1 0,— clear 4-
 
 387 
 
 I'he ice in the lake was fourteen inches in thick- 
 ness, on the 1 st of January, and eighteen and threes- 
 fourths, (its greatest thickness, during the winter ;) 
 on the second of February. The greatest depth of 
 snow was twenty-two inches, on the thirty-first 
 of January. The thermometer stood at on 
 the first and nineteenth of January. The highest 
 degree of heat during that month was 39°. — In Feb- 
 ruary, the highest heat was Z)9° — in March, 42°*
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 J O U RJV E F, 
 
 FROM CHICAGO, THROUGH LAKE MICHIGAN, TO 
 MIC ML IMA CKIJVA C. 
 
 C. Day. — (August 31s/.} 
 
 GOVERNOR CASS here determined to proceed on 
 horseback, across the peninsula of Michigan, follow- 
 ing the Indian trail, to Detroit; and accompanied 
 by Mr. Kinsey, of Chicago, Major Forsyth, and 
 Lieutenant Mackay of the expedition, and one or 
 two attendants, left Chicago at one o'clock in the af- 
 ternoon, taking the beach road to the river Du 
 Schmein, where the path leaves the lake. In the 
 mean time, Captain Douglass and myself, were left 
 to complete the topographical and geological sur- 
 vey of Lake Michigan, and joining our compan- 
 ions, who were detached from Green Bay on the 
 twenty-second of August, at Michilimackinac, to 
 proceed to Detroit with all practicable despatch. — 
 We were ready to embark at half past two in the 
 afternoon, and bidding adieu to Doctor Wolcott, 
 who, being a resident of Chicago, here left the ex- 
 pedition ; we proceeded, with a fair wind, twenty
 
 389 * 
 
 miles south-southeast, and encamped on the shore 
 of the lake. At the distance of eleven miles from 
 Chicago, we passed the mouth of the river Little 
 Konomick, which is a stream of about forty miles 
 in length, flowing in, by a deep and narrow channel, 
 from the south. The shore of the lake, during this 
 distance, is the sandy margin of a prairie, without 
 hills. In one instance only, do any rock strata appear, 
 and then merely at a point, not elevated more than 
 four or five inches above the water. They are cal- 
 careous. 
 
 CI. Day. — {September 1st.) — Detained by head 
 winds. In passing along the shore of the lake, (yes- 
 terday) at the distance of a mile and a half from 
 Chicago, the scene of the massacre of the garri- 
 son, stationed at that place, during the late war, 
 was pointed out to us. This took place on the fif- 
 teenth of August, 1812, the day after the surrender 
 of General Hull, at Detroit. At this eventful peri- 
 od of the war, gloom hung upon every part of our 
 extensive northwestern frontiers. The town of Mich- 
 ilimackinac had already been carried by surprise ; 
 and the retrograde movements of the American ar- 
 my, served to flatter the most sanguine hopes of In- 
 dian animosity — while the recollection of their re- 
 cent defeat at Tippacanoe — their ancient prejudi- 
 ces — and above all, their British allies, were every 
 day adding to their infuriated bands — which, rising 
 from the north, the east, and the south, now hung 
 like a gathering tempest over the land, every mo- 
 ment increasing in its gloom, and threatening rapine 
 and destruction, to our unfortified frontiers. In this 
 exigency of the times, while it appeared yet prac-
 
 • .390 
 
 ticable to escape, Capt. Heald, commanding the 
 rison at Chicago, received orders from Gov. H to 
 evacuate the fort, which it would be impossible tosuc- 
 cour, in case of an Indian attack ; and to proceed with 
 his command, by land, to Detroit. This order was 
 received on the ninth of August, and had it been 
 promptly obeyed, it is probable that the fate of the 
 garrison would have been averted, as the Indians 
 had not yet appeared in force ; but owing to an in- 
 fatuation, which it is difficult to explain, eight days 
 were allowed to elapse, before the order was exe- 
 cuted, during which time, the Indians had collected 
 around the garrison to the number of four or five 
 hundred, and by killing the cattle, and other out- 
 rageous acts, shewed a determined hostility, al- 
 though they had not yet menaced the garrison. On 
 the thirteenth, Captain Wells arrived from fort 
 Wayne, with thirty friendly Miamies, to escort the 
 garrison to Detroit, by the request of General Hull, 
 Still, two days were suffered to pass, before the gar- 
 rison was evacuated, owing to a fatal security in 
 which the commandant indulged, in regard to the 
 dispositions of the Indians — but in which his sub- 
 alterns, and the inhabitants, did not coincide. At 
 length, on the fifteenth, having distributed among 
 the Indians all the goods remaining in the factory 
 store, with a quantity of provisions ; and destroyed 
 the arms and ammunition, which could not be taken 
 away, Captain Heald marched out of the garrison, 
 at nine o'clock in the morning, following along the 
 sandy beach of the lake, which is the usual route 
 to fort Wayne and Detroit. The garrison now con- 
 sisted of fifty-four regulars, and twelve militia, ex- 
 clusive of the officers, and the friendly Miamies, 

 
 391 
 
 m^er Captain Wells. They were accompanied by 
 s j al baggage waggons, containing provisions and 
 ammunition, and eighteen women and children; the 
 whole force comprising the entire population, both 
 civil and military of Chicago. The face of the coun- 
 try is such, that it is necessary to travel along the 
 sandy shore of the lake, with sand banks on the right, 
 at the distance of from one to two hundred yards, 
 and elevated to such a height, that the country back 
 of it, is completely hid from the view. They had 
 not proceeded more than a mile and a half, when it 
 was perceived that a large body of Indians were 
 lying in ambush behind these sand hills, and 
 they soon encompassed them, — the broad lake 
 extending on the left. This discovery was 
 scarcely made, when the Indians set up their 
 horrid yell, and poured down a warm fire in all di- 
 rections. Several men fell at the first shot, but 
 Captain Heald formed his men with deliberation, 
 and after firing one round, ordered a charge, and 
 ascended the bank, after sustaining a severe loss. — 
 The Indians in front, fled to the right and left, join,- 
 ing a deadly fire which was kept up from the flanks, 
 and which it was in vain to resist. In a few moments, 
 out of sixty-six soldiers, only sixteen were alive- 
 Captain Heald succeeded, however, in drawing off 
 these, to an eminence in the open prairie, out 
 of reach of their shot. They did not follow him 
 out, but gathering upon the bank, began a consulta- 
 tion, and made signs for him to approach. He was 
 met by a Pottowatomie chief, called the Black Bird, 
 to whom he surrendered himself, with his Lieut. 
 (Helm) and sixteen men, under a promise that their 
 lives should be spared ; but they were afterwards 
 butchered, from time to time, with the exception of
 
 392 
 
 Captain Heald, and three or four men. Among the 
 killed, were Ensign Ronan, Doctor Voorhis, h. \ 
 Captain Wells. The latter had his heart cut out. 
 and other shocking barbarities committed upon hi6 
 body, having rendered himself particularly obnox- 
 ious to the Indians, by his influence among those 
 savage tribes, who remained friendly to the United 
 States. In the course of the action, a party of In- 
 dians, raising their furious yells, rushed upon the 
 baggage waggons, where the women and children had 
 taken shelter, and commenced a scene of plun- 
 der and massacre, which it would be impossible to 
 describe. Of eighteen women and children, twelve 
 were killed upon the spot. Several of the women, 
 (soldiers' wives) fought with swords. 
 
 During the action, a sergeant of infantry, who 
 had already manifested the greatest bravery, was op- 
 posed in personal combat with an Indian. Both had al- 
 ready discharged their pieces, when the sergeant saw 
 the Indian running up to him with a lifted tomahawk, 
 but before the blow fell, ran his bayonet in the In- 
 dian's breast up to the socket, so that he could not 
 pull it out; yet, in this situation, the Indian toma- 
 hawked him, and they both fell dead together.* — 
 The Miamies took no part in this massacre. It was 
 executed by the Pottowatomie tribe. These facts 
 are taken from the description given by an eye-wit- 
 
 * A similar instance of courage is mentioned to have occurred 
 :n the battle of Oriskany, during the revolutionary war. " There 
 was found an Indian and a white man, both born on the banks of 
 the Mohawk, their left hands clenched in each other's hair, the 
 right grasping in a gripe of death, the knife plunged in each oth- 
 er's bosom. Thus they lay frowning." — Governeur Morris'' Dfo 
 course before the New-Yorl* Historical Society. 1812.
 
 393 
 
 jiess, Mr. Kinsey of Chicago, and nrbm Captain 
 Heald's official report.* 
 
 CII. Day. — {September 2d.) — The wind cejaafthNn 
 the course of the night, and we embarkllratear- 
 ]y day light. On proceeding twelve miles, we pass- 
 ed the grand Konomick, the mouth of which is 
 choaked up with sand, and the appearance of the 
 country, in the vicinity, is very barren, and uninvi- 
 ting. Twenty miles beyond, we passed the mouth 
 of the river du Chemin, (river of the Road. ) Here 
 the path from Chicago to Detroit, by land, leads out 
 into the prairies. The distance to Detroit, is compu- 
 ted to be three hundred miles. There is a plain horse 
 path, which is considerably travelled by traders, 
 hunters, and others. It is, however, intersected by 
 innumerable cross paths, leading to different Indian 
 villages and settlements, so that it could not be pur- 
 sued by a stranger, without a guide. The country 
 is said to be handsomely diversified with prairies, 
 woods, hills, and streams, and furnishes every facil- 
 ity for waggon roads, settlements, water-mills, &c. — ■ 
 In the spring and fall, some danger is to be appre- 
 hended in crossing several of the streams, but there 
 are none which may not be safely forded at midsum- 
 mer. 
 
 At a point intermediate, between the grand Ko- 
 nomick, and the river du Chemin, we passed the spot, 
 on the beach of the lake, where the schooner Her- 
 cules, was wrecked in the fall of 1316, ancl all on 
 board perished. The mast, pump, and some frag- 
 ments of spars, scattered along the shore, still serve 
 
 * See Fay's Battles, p. 65. 
 50
 
 39 A 
 
 to mark the spot, and to convey some idea of the 
 dreadful storms which at certain seasons agitate this 
 lake. The voyageurs also pointed out to us, the 
 graves of those who perished, who appear to have 
 been buried at different places, along the shore, 
 where they happened to be washed up. Among 
 these, was Lieutenant William S. Evileth, an intelli- 
 gent and promising young officer of engineers, whose 
 death has been much lamented. He had been em- 
 ployed in the re-building of the military works at 
 Chicago, which were burnt down by the Pottowato- ! 
 mies, during the late war, after the massacre of the 
 garrison; and had embarked the day previous to the 
 shipwreck, at Chicago, to return to his friends, after I 
 a summer spent in arduous and useful service. It 1 
 was late in November, when the navigation is at- 
 tended with so much peril; and the first intelligence 
 of the fatal catastrophe, was communicated by find- 
 ing the wreck of the vessel, and the bodies of the 
 passengers, strewed along the shore. Several days 
 had however elapsed before this discovery was S 
 made, and the bodies were so beat and bruised by 
 the spars of the wreck, that the deceased could not 
 be recognised by their features. The wolves had 
 gnawed the face of Lieutenant Evileth in so shock- 
 ing a manner, that he could not have been recogni- 
 sed had it not been for the military buttons of his 
 clothes. His grave is situated beneath a cluster of 
 small pines, on the declivity of a sand bank, and is 
 marked by a blazed sapling. His memory would ap- 
 pear to deserve some tribute of respect, more grateful 
 to the feelings of humanity, from those with whom| 
 he was formerly associated; and perhaps this sug-
 
 395 
 
 gestion has not occurred to the officers, stationed at 
 the neighbouring garrison. 
 
 The little river du Galien, enters the lake ten 
 miles beyond the river du Chemin, by a mouth 
 nearly closed with drifting sands. We encamped 
 on the beach twelve miles beyond it, having pro- 
 gressed altogether a distance of fifty-four miles. 
 
 CI1I. Day. — {September 3d.) — We reached the riv- 
 er St. Joseph, in travelling fourteen miles. This is 
 one of the largest and most important streams which 
 flows into the lake on its eastern shore. It is as- 
 cended one hundred and twenty miles in canoes, 
 and is connected by a short portage, with a river of 
 the same name, which runs into the Miami of the 
 Lake, near fort Wayne — a route which is frequently 
 travelled by the Indians. This stream was former- 
 ly the seat of a French fort, and missionary family, 
 and continued for many years to be one of the most 
 important places in the region. It is particularly 
 described by Charlevoix, Hennepin, and other ear- 
 ly French travellers and missionaries. The lands 
 upon its banks are represented to be rich and beau- 
 tiful, and heavily timbered with black walnut, oak, 
 maple, and elm ; but its mouth is skirted by sand 
 hills, of the most sterile appearance, and support- 
 ing nothing but pines and poplars. There is found, 
 towards the sources of this river, a variety of sin- 
 gular petrifactions, which may be referred to the ge- 
 nus of Phytoliks. They consist chiefly, of the leaves, 
 branches, and roots of trees, mineralized by the 
 calcareous earth, which appears to be held in solu- 
 tion by one of the higher tributaries of the St. Jo-
 
 396 
 
 ieph, in the bed of which these organic reiiqua are 
 found.* 
 
 It is twenty-four miles from the St. Joseph, to the 
 Blackwater river, which is a stream of sixty miles 
 in length, and is ascended in canoes nearly to its 
 source. Like all the streams which enter on this 
 side of the lake, its mouth is almost closed with 
 yellow sands. In the intermediate distance between 
 St. Joseph's and the Blackwater, I found along the 
 shore, a number of specimens of chalcedony, com- 
 mon jasper, quartz, and some madrepores, and oth- 
 er organic relics. We encamped twelve miles be- 
 yond the latter, upon the sandy shore, having pro- 
 ceeded fifty miles. 
 
 CIV. Day. — (September 4th.) — On travelling ten 
 miles, we passed the river Kikalemazo, which appears 
 from its mouth, to be a stream of considerable size. 
 Along the shore of the lake, between this stream and 
 the Blackwater, the ludus helmontii,t is very abun* 
 dant. 
 
 •These vegetable petrifactions were discovered by Governor 
 Cass, in his tour across the peninsula of Michigan, from Chicago 
 to Detroit j and I am indebted to the zeal, which he uniformly 
 manifested during the expedition, to promote the cause of sci- 
 ence, for the very interesting specimens I possess from this locali- 
 ty ; and which were conveyed nearly two hundred miles on horse- 
 back, through the woods. 
 
 f "This name is given to orbicular masses of calcareous marl, 
 usually from one to eighteen inches diameter, whose interior pre- 
 sents numerous fissures or seams, which divide the mass into ir- 
 regular prisms. These fissures are usually lined or filled by some 
 crystallized substance, as calcareous spar or quartz, which have 
 undoubtedly entered by filtration. These masses are usually found 
 
 lit beds of marl." 
 
 Cleavdand's Mintralogy.
 
 397 
 
 Eight miles beyond the Kikalemazo, there is a 
 river of secondary size, called Black river or Iro- 
 quois chiefly noted for the ginseng, which is abun- 
 dantly found upon its banks. Thence, it is seven 
 leagues to Grand river, which is next in point of 
 size, and importance, to the St. Joseph.. This 
 stream is said to afford one of the finest tracts of 
 farming land in the Michigan territory It forms the 
 boundary line between the territories of the Potto- 
 watomie and Ottoway tribes ; and is at present the 
 residence of a numerous savage population. A bed 
 of gypsum, of a fine quality for agricultural purpo- 
 ses, has recently been discovered upon the naviga- 
 ble waters of this stream. 
 
 The next stream of considerable size is the Mas- 
 kagon, which enters the lake twelve miles from 
 Grand river, at the mouth of which we encamped, 
 at eight o'clock, having advanced, during the day, 
 a distance of fifty-four miles. The margin of the 
 lake presents a dreary prospect of sand banks, cov- 
 ered with pine and poplar. The shore is sandy, 
 with occasional banks of pebbles ; but no rock stra- 
 ta appear in situ. The only birds, seen along 
 this part of the coast, are the gull, and the crow.— 
 We passed, at a short distance from Grand river, a 
 number of spars, and pieces of timber, belonging 
 to the wreck of an English vessel, cast away several 
 years ago on this part of the coast. 
 
 We encamped at the mouth of the Maskagon at 
 twilight, and had a few moments to examine the 
 singular appearances of this part of the coast, which 
 consists of conical hills of loose sand, that are 
 changing their forms and position during every gale 
 sf wind ; and in some places, present a few poplars,
 
 398 
 
 pines, or hemlocks. In a few moments after land- 
 ing, one of the men, who had been sent out to pro- 
 cure wood, returned, bringing with him two singular 
 productions, which he denominated sand horns. — 
 1 hey were found attached to the lower part of a 
 dead poplar (populus tremidoidcs) standing upon the 
 summit of one of those conical hills of naked sand, 
 which characterize the mouth of the Muskagon; 
 and in cutting down the tree, fell off. On examin- 
 ing the tree, I found several smaller productions of 
 the same kind, attached to the bark, in the manner, 
 and in the form of common fungi. The sand horns 
 are a foot in length, branching out in various forms, 
 like the corals of the ocean, having the granular 
 structure, of grey sand stone rock, with the or- 
 ganic external form of the club-fungus. (See the 
 plate.) There is no appearance, however, of a 
 stipe or stem in breaking off one of the branches, 
 nor are there any indications of a nucleus at the 
 point of attachment to the tree. In hardness, it is 
 intermediate between a porous sand stone, and cer- 
 tain steatites; and I have observed during wet 
 weather, that it acquires a certain degree of flexi- 
 bility. Muriatic acid has no action upon it, either 
 in the concentrated or diluted iorm, but there is an 
 effervescence in diluted sulphuric acid, and a part 
 of the powder is held in solution, forming a kind of 
 jelly, while the pure grains of silicious sand, are 
 precipitated to the bottom of the glass, in the com- 
 mon form. These circumstances indicate a combi- 
 nation of vegetable and mineral matter, not exactly 
 in the form of a common petrifaction, but somewhat 
 analogous ; and will authorize us in classing them 
 among fho<=e organic remain^, whose prototype is 

 
 Im 
 
 
 u.H-OSFQB-D 1341-
 
 399 
 
 taken from the vegetable kingdom. These consti- 
 tute the genus Phytolite, in Martin's Systema Reli- 
 quiorum, under which, the present discovery will 
 furnish the occasion of erecting a new species, that 
 shall embrace petrifactions, of the various species of 
 the botanical order Fungi. 
 
 CV. Day. — (September 5lh.) — It is twelve miles 
 from the Maskagon to White river — then thirty-one 
 to the Pentwater, or Black river, with an Indian 
 village in the intermediate space ; and nine more to 
 the river Marquette, which takes its name from one of 
 the most enterprising of the Catholic missionaries, 
 who, during the early settlement of Canada, devoted 
 themselves, in so extraordinary a manner, to the 
 reformation of the savage tribes. He was one of the 
 first discoverers of the Mississippi, and the founder 
 of Michilimackinac. 
 
 " Father Joseph Marquette," says Charlevoix, " a 
 native of Laon in Picardy, where his family still 
 maintains a distinguished rank, was one of the most 
 illustrious missionaries of New France. This per- 
 son travelled over all the countries in it, and made 
 several important discoveries, the last of which was 
 that of the Mississippi, which he entered with the 
 Sieur Joliet, in 1673. Two years after this discov- 
 ery, an account of which he has published, as he 
 was going from Chicago, which is at the bottom of 
 Lake Michigan, to Michilimackinac, he entered on 
 the eighth day of May, 1675, the river in question, 
 the mouth of which was then at the extremity of the 
 lower ground, which, as I have already taken notice, 
 you leave on the right hand as you enter. Here 
 he erected his altar, and said mass. He went af-
 
 400 
 
 terwards to a small distance, in order to return 
 thanks, and begged the two men who conducted his 
 canoe to leave him alone for half an hour. This 
 time having passed, they went to seek him, and 
 were surprised to find him dead ; they called to 
 mind, however, that on entering the river, he had 
 let drop an expression, that he should end his days 
 at that place. However, as it was too far to carry 
 his body to Michilimackinac, they buried him near 
 the bank of the river, which from that time has re- 
 tired by degrees, as out of respect for his remains, 
 as far as the cape, the foot of which it now wash- 
 es ; and where it has opened itself a new passage." 
 
 Fourteen miles north of the river Marquette, San- 
 dy river throws itself into the lake, by a mouth of 
 only ten yards wide, being choaked up, in some 
 measure, by the sands, which are beat up by the 
 lake. We encamped four miles beyond the latter, 
 at a late hour, having progressed, with a favourable 
 wind, seventy miles. 
 
 CVI. Day. — {September 6th.) — The distance from 
 Sandy, to Man is tic river, is seventeen miles — thence 
 thirty, to the river Au Betsie, and two to Gravelly 
 Point, where we encamped, after proceeding forty- 
 five miles. We were detained a couple of hours in 
 the morning, by rain, which continued, with short 
 intermissions, during the day. There is a great 
 uniformity in the appearance of the coast, which is 
 characterized by sand banks, and pines. In some 
 instances, a stratum of loam, is seen beneath the 
 sand, and the beech and maple are occasionally 
 intermixed with the predominating pines of the for- 
 est ; but our impressions in passing along the coast,
 
 401 
 
 Tire only those produced by barren scenery or im« 
 cultivated woods. 
 
 " No hamlet smoking through the mists of dawn, 
 No garden blushing with its fostering dew, 
 No herds^vild browsing on the dasied lawn— . 
 No busy village charms the admiring view." 
 
 CV1I. Day.— (September 7th.)— The weather still 
 remained cloudy. — We embarked at early daylight. 
 In going thirteen miles, we passed a small stream 
 called Plate river ; and nine miles beyond reached 
 a noted point, on the east shore of the lake, called 
 the Sleeping Bear. The shore of the lake here, 
 consists of a bank of sand, probably two hundred 
 feet high, and extending eight or nine miles, with- 
 out any vegetation, except a small hillock, about 
 the centre, which is covered with pines and pop- 
 lars, and has served to give name to the place, from 
 a rude resemblance it has, when viewed at a dis- 
 tance, to a couchant bear. There are two islands 
 off this part of the coast, in plain view from the 
 shore, which are called the Sleeping Bear islands. 
 
 Fifteen miles beyond the Sleeping Bear, we pass- 
 ed Carp river, a small stream ; and a like distance 
 beyond it, encamped on the southern cape of Grande 
 Traverse Bay, which is the most considerable in- 
 dentation in the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, 
 being nine miles wide, and about twenty or twenty- 
 five in length, narrowing towards its head, where it 
 receives the Ottoway river. At this place, the rock 
 strata first appear in situ, in travelling from Chica- 
 go to Michilimackinac, with the exception of a point 
 near the little Konomick, formerly mentioned. It 
 
 51
 
 402 
 
 is calcareous, stratified, and with shells sparingly 
 imbedded. It scarcely appears above the water in 
 the ledge, but large detached masses of it, with 
 enormous boulders of hornblende, and granite, are 
 lying in the water near the shore, and render it 
 dangerous to turn this cape in canoes, during the 
 night, or in cases of a strong wind. 
 
 A visible eclipse of the sun had been calculated 
 for this day, to commence at seven o'clock, twenty 
 minutes ; but we could perceive no obscuration, 
 notwithstanding that the sun shone out, a great part 
 of the time between six and eight o'clock, and we 
 were prepared to observe the commencement and 
 duration of the eclipse, by the telescope, and the 
 darkened glasses of a common sextant. The at- 
 mosphere was cloudy and obscure at daylight, but 
 lightened towards six o'clock, and between that and 
 eight, a succession of fleecy clouds passed rapid- 
 ly before the sun, sometimes veiling it entirely 
 for a number of minutes, but during the inter- 
 vals, it shone forth with its usual effulgence, and 
 we could observe no diminution in the light, the 
 transparency, or the temperature of the air. This 
 eclipse was observed according to the predictions 
 at Philadelphia, &c. 
 
 CVIH. Day.— (September 8/i)-We were favour- 
 ed with a calm, in crossing the Grand Traverse, 
 which is nine miles. It is then six miles to La Pe- 
 tit Traverse, which is two leagues across ; and nine 
 more, to the Indian village of L'Arbre Croche. 
 This consists of about forty families of Ottoways, 
 who are settled upon a very fertile tract of land, 
 and raise corn, potatoes, pease, beans, cucumbers,
 
 403 
 
 and pumpkins, not only in sufficient quantity for 
 their own subsistence, but they annually take a 
 quantity of corn to the Michilimackinac market. — 
 They reside in permanent, and comfortable houses, 
 and number altogether, about three hundred souls. 
 There was formerly a Jesuit Mission established at 
 this place, but it declined with the fall of the French 
 power in the Canadas. The site of the chapel, and 
 the clerical mansion, was designated by our Cana- 
 dian conductors, as we passed a point of land at 
 the northern extremity of the village, which still 
 continues to be called Point cfia Mission. A cluster 
 of islands in the lake, called the Beaver islands, are 
 visible in passing along the coast, between the 
 Sleeping Bear and L'Arbre Croche; and are no- 
 ted as affording safe anchorage ground to vessels 
 navigating the lakes. Ft is twenty-four miles from 
 Point a 1 la Mission to Wagashonz or Fox Point, in 
 the straits of Michilimackinac, and nine from thence 
 to the site of old 'Mackinac; in the vicinity of which, 
 we encamped after dark, having progressed fifty- 
 seven miles. 
 
 CIX. Day. — (September 9th.) — The approach of 
 daylight, which disclosed to our view, the island of 
 Michilimackinac, brought with it, a gale of wind 
 which created such a swell on the lake, that we 
 could not venture to embark. At eleven o'clock, 
 the swells broke with less fury along the shore, al- 
 though still too boisterous to attempt the traverse in 
 loaded canoes ; but counselled rather by our impa- 
 tience than our judgment, we determined to hazard 
 the attempt, in a light canoe, strongly manned by 
 our best voyaguers, who volunteered on the occa-
 
 404 
 
 sion, ami had the good fortune, after being tossed up 
 on the billows for several hours, to reach the harbour 
 of Michilimackinac in safety. 
 
 CX. Day. — {September 10th.) — Our friends, from 
 whom we parted at Green Bay on the 22nd of Au- 
 gust, had arrived there several days before us, ha- 
 ving experienced favourable winds, and completed 
 the passage in eight days. On separa'ing from us 
 at the mouth of Fox river, they coursed around the 
 western shores of Green Bay to Detour, which is 
 the point of the northern peninsula separating Green 
 Bay from Lake Michigan ; and thence along the 
 northwestern margin of the lake to Point St. Ig- 
 nace, and Michilimackinac. The entire distance 
 by that route, is computed at two hundred and eigh- 
 ty miles. Green Bay has two considerable indenta- 
 tions, called Little Bay de Noquet, and Great 
 Bay de Noquet. Between Fox river and Little 
 Bay de Noquet, a large stream throws itself into 
 the bay, called Mcnornonie river, which is connect- 
 ed with some of the tributary waters of Lake Su- 
 perior. Between Detour and Point St. Ignace, the 
 Mino Cockien, Manistique, and some smaller rivers, 
 enter the lake. This part of the country is gene- 
 rally barren, consisting mainly of sandy pine ridges, 
 or naked calcareous rocks. The western shores of 
 Green Bay, afford some fine lands, mixed, however, 
 with a portion that is either low and swampy, or 
 rocky and sterile. In passing these coasts, Mr. 
 Trowbridge and Mr. Doty, procured a number of 
 specimens illustrative of the mineralogy and geolo- 
 gy of the region. " The most interesting of these," 
 says the former in a note to me on the subject, " will
 
 probably be the organic remains, which yoa will 
 find in the lower part of the collection ; they were 
 procured in Little Noquet Bay, on the northeast 
 side, where ridges of limestone show themselves 
 frequently. In another part of our collections, you 
 will find a specimen of the limestone weighing about 
 two pounds, of which the upper stratum is compos- 
 ed, {secondary limestone?) and likewise, two pieces 
 of the lower stratum, resembling blue pipe-stone, 
 which were quite soft when first taken up. {Earthy 
 compact limestone ) The middle stratum was compos- 
 ed of these remains. (Pcctinites.) 
 
 " About ten miles northeast of the Great Bay de 
 Noquet, we found flint, or horustone, of which spe- 
 cimens are sent. It was found in small quantities 
 attached to the limestone rocks. {This is the com' 
 mon hornstone in nodules.) 
 
 " There is also a specimen of marble, (transition 
 limestone) which, however, we saw little of; but since 
 our arrival, are informed that a large bluff compos- 
 ed of the same, is seen from thirty to forty miles 
 from this place, on the lake shore. That which we 
 procured, was sixty miles from this." 
 
 The canoe, with our baggage, which we left on 
 the peninsula, on the morning of the ninth, travers- 
 ed the strait of Michilimackinac to Point St. Ignace, 
 in the evening of that day, and rejoined us this morn- 
 ing in the harbour of Michilimackinac. 
 
 CXI. Day. — (September 11 th.) — Several years ago, 
 a brilliant specimen of native copper, weighing 
 ten or twelve pounds, of an irregular shape, was 
 brought to this place by one of the traders, who had 
 procured it from an Indian on the banks of Winne-
 
 406 
 
 bago lake. Differing little in its external character 
 from other masses of the same substance, which 
 have been so frequently found throughout this re- 
 gion, I should not bring the circumstance into notice, 
 were it not to illustrate by the following fanciful sto- 
 ry, the fertility of invention and the powers of ima 
 gination, possessed by some of the savage tribes, 
 The Indian related, that passing in his canoe during 
 the afternoon of a beautiful summei's day, across 
 Winnebago lake, when the sun was just visible above 
 the tops of the trees, and a delightful calm prevail- 
 ed over the face of the waters, he espied at a distance 
 in the lake before him, a beautiful female form stand- 
 ing in the water. Her eyes shone with a brilliancy 
 that could not be endured, and she held in her hand 
 a lump of glittering gold. He immediately paddled 
 towards the attractive object, but as he came 
 near, he could perceive that it was gradually al_ 
 tering as to its shape and complexion ; her eyes 
 no longer shone with brilliancy — her face lost the 
 hectic glow of life — her arms imperceptibly disap- 
 peared ; and when he came to the spot where she 
 stood, it was a monument of stone, having a human 
 face, with the fins and tail of a fish. He sat a long 
 while in amazement, fearful either to touch the 
 super-human object, or to go away and leave it; at 
 length, having made an offering of the incense of to- 
 bacco, and addressed it as the guardian angel of his 
 country, he ventured to lay his hand upon the statue, 
 and finally lifted it into his canoe. Then sitting in 
 the other end of the canoe, with his back towards 
 the miraculous statue, he paddled gently towards 
 the shore, but was astonished, on turning round, to 
 find nothing in his canoe, but the large lump of cop-
 
 407 
 
 per, " which," he concluded, taking it carefully from 
 a roll of skins, " I now present to you." 
 
 CXIL Day.— {September 12th.)— At Michilimacki- 
 nac.
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 RETURA' TO DETROIT. 
 
 CXIL Day.— {September 13th.) 
 
 \\ E left Michilimackinac at three o'clock in the af- 
 ternoon, and proceeding ten miles, encamped at 
 Point aux Pins on the lower extremity of the island 
 of Bois Blanc. This island is from ten to twelve 
 miles in length, by three in width at the widest part, 
 stretching in the form of a crescent between the island 
 of Michilimackinac and the peninsula of Michigan. 
 The lower part of it, consists of a sandy plain cover- 
 ed with pitch pines (pinus resinosd) but by far the 
 greatest portion of the island is a fertile soil, well 
 adapted for tillage, and bearing a forest of elm, 
 maple, oak, ash, and white wood, the latter being 
 the predominating tree. In the summer season, it 
 has a luxuriant under-growth of grass, vines, and 
 succulent plants, and serves as pasturage ground for 
 the cattle and horses of the inhabitants of Michili- 
 mackinac, and also as a repository of fire-wood and 
 building timber ; and is, in every respect, a most 
 valuable appendage to that settlement. 
 
 CX1V. Day.— (September 1 \th.) — Detained by un- 
 favourable winds during the morning. — Jn the mean-
 
 409 
 
 time, Capt. Douglass revisits 'Mackinac, and returns 
 in the evening, when the wind abating, we proceed- 
 ed across the Traverse to the main shore — a dis- 
 tance of four miles. While detained on Bois Blanc, 
 a vessel bound for Michilimackinac, passed up 
 through the narrow strait, which separates the isl- 
 and from the main shore. It is interesting to con- 
 template the progress of commerce through regions, 
 which at no remote period, were only traversed in 
 bark canoes ; and which, perhaps, in a still shorter 
 period, may smile under the hand of agriculture, 
 civilization, and the arts. Every fact, connected with 
 the early settlement of a country, acquires, in pro- 
 cess of time, a moral importance of which we are 
 scarcely aware ; and the historian siezes with avidi- 
 ty upon the insolated records of the introduction of 
 any improvement in agriculture, inventions in the 
 arts, and other changes which affect the condition 
 and comfort of men, however unimportant in them- 
 selves, to characterize the early stages of society, 
 in every country. Only a hundred and forty-one 
 years have now elapsed, since the first vessel of Eu- 
 ropean construction, was launched upon the northern 
 lakes. The date, and the facts connected with 
 its construction, are well authenticated by the 
 concurrent testimony of all the early travellers of 
 the region, and have been already mentioned, in a 
 former part of this Journal; but it is added by Fa- 
 ther Hennipen, that this vessel, called " the Griffin," 
 was wrecked during the same year in Lake Michi- 
 gan, with a cargo of furs and skins, valued at sixty 
 thousand livres. It is now two years since a steam 
 boat was introduced upon the lakes. This vessel, 
 called the " Walk-in-the-Water." in allusion to a 
 
 52
 
 110 
 
 Wyandot chief, made its first trip to the island ol 
 Micliilimackinac during the summer of 1319 ; and 
 produced as great a degree of astonishment among 
 the Indians, who had a-semblcd to witness its arrival, 
 as it would have done, had such a vessel entered 
 the mouth of the Tiber during the meridian splen- 
 dour of the arts and arms of emperial Rome. The 
 latter must have been equally surprised to see a ship 
 ploughing rapidly through the water, without the 
 aid of sails or oars; but with this difference — that 
 the ancient Roman could readily have been made to 
 comprehend the nature of the power by which it 
 was propelled, whereas to the savage mind, it re- 
 mained wholly incomprehensible and mysterious. — 
 Like all appearances, however, which are not un- 
 derstood, whether of natural or artificial creation; 
 it was conjectured to be the work of super-human 
 agency, and they were not slow in accounting for it. 
 by a reference to the sublime system of Indian 
 mythology. According to this, Miccabo, who is the 
 spirit of water, and answers to the Neptune of the 
 heathens, exerts an influence over all those various 
 tribes of the creation, who are compelled to inhab- 
 it the streams, rivers, and lakes ; and they suppos- 
 ed that he had summoned from the great salt lake, 
 (meaning the ocean) a number of large fishes, or 
 Missi-kikons, who were employed to draw this vessel 
 through the water in so extraordinary a manner, in 
 return for some signal favour received from the white 
 men. Such is the facility with which the northern 
 Indians account for the most extraordinary phenom- 
 ena. 
 
 CXV. Day. — {September 1 5th.) — A violent rain
 
 411 
 
 storm during the night; — we embarked at day break, 
 and descended to Presque Isle, a distance of forty- 
 four miles. 
 
 CXVI. Day.— (September 1 6^.)— Rainy — embark- 
 ed at five in the morning, and proceeded to Thun- 
 der Bay, on the north cape of which we encamped, 
 at an early hour in the afternoon, the lake threaten- 
 ing a violent storm ; — distance thirty miles. 
 
 At the spot of our encampment, and around the 
 shores of Thunder Bay, petrifactions of the encri- 
 nite, pectinite, celleporite, &c. are abundant. They 
 occur imbedded in compact limestone, which ap- 
 pears in horizontal strata along this part of the coast, 
 although it does not attain a great elevation above 
 the surface of the water. The application of these 
 relics, in determining the geological ages of the dif- 
 ferent mineral strata, composing the crust of theglobe, 
 was certainly one of the happiest and the most im- 
 portant of the discoveries for which the sciences of 
 mineralogy and geology stand indebted to the cele- 
 brated Werner. No sooner was this fact advanced, 
 than men of science in all parts of the world, be- 
 gan to perceive that certain limestones, slates, schists, 
 &c. were characterized by containing the im- 
 bedded remains of plants, shells, polypi, and fishes; 
 while other rocks, and different species of the same 
 genus of rocks, were entirely free from these re- 
 mains, thus furnishing evidence, which appears in- 
 controvertible in the present state of the science, 
 that the former are of the most recent formation. A 
 minute examination of the different species of im- 
 bedded relics found in similar rocks, in countries the 
 most distant and remote, served also to shew a co*
 
 412 
 
 incidence in the composition, relative position, and 
 petrifactions of rocks, which has laid the founda- 
 tion of the theory of universal stratification, and of 
 the formation of all mineral strata, through the agen- 
 cy of watery menstruae either by subsidence, or by 
 crystallization ; and perhaps there is nothing which 
 the combined lights of geology and philosophy at 
 the present period, tend more conclusively to prove? 
 than that the different continents of the earth, were 
 simultaneously created, however since disrupted 
 hj earthquakes, washed away by seas, or dilapidated 
 by time. 
 
 " Neither an attentive examination of the geologi- 
 cal constitution of America," says the Baron de 
 Humboldt, " nor reflections on the equilibrium of 
 the fluids, that are diffused over the surface of the 
 globe, lead us to admit, that the new continent 
 emerged from the waters at a later period than the 
 old : we discern in the former the same succession 
 of stony strata, that we find in our own hemisphere; 
 and it is probable, that, in the mountains of Peru, the 
 granites, the micaceous schists, or the different for- 
 mations of gypsum and gritstone, existed originally at 
 the same periods, as the rocks of the same denomi- 
 nations in the Alps of Switzerland. The whole 
 globe appears to have undergone the same catastro- 
 phes. At a height superior to that of Mount Blanc, 
 on the summit of the Andes, we find petrified sea- 
 shells; fossil-bones are spread over the equinoctial 
 regions ; and what is very remarkable, they are not 
 discovered at the feet of the palm trees in the burn- 
 ing plains of Oronoco, but on the coldest and most 
 elevated regions of the Cordilleras. In the new world, 
 as well as in the old, generations of species long ex-
 
 413 
 
 tinct, have preceded those, which now people the 
 earth, the waters, and the air."* 
 
 CXVI1. Day. — {September ilth.) — We proceeded 
 across Thunder Bay, at five o'clock in the morning, 
 landing a few moments upon the island near its cen- 
 tre, and passing successively, the spot of oui former 
 encampment, at the mouth of the river au Sables, 
 and the northwest cape of Saganaw Bay, encamped 
 on the western shore of the latter, at Sandy Point ; 
 having made a journey of fifty-five miles. Here we 
 found a family of Saganaw Indians, who had taken 
 up a temporary residence at that place, attracted by 
 the abundance of water fowl, found in a contiguous 
 inlet. These people lead a wandering life, abiding 
 but a short time at a place, changing their habita- 
 tions whenever the deer, the fish, or the wild fowl, 
 promise an easier subsistence at another place. 
 They live in tents formed of rush-mats, supported by 
 a few slender poles : and all their moveable effects 
 and household goods, together with the family, are 
 readily transported in a birch bark canoe. On en- 
 tering the tent, we found no person in, but the squaw 
 and children, who manifested none of that timidity, 
 and apparent fear, which it is common to find among 
 unfrequented tribes. The woman was engaged at 
 the moment, in picking the feathers from a number 
 of wild ducks, apparently just killed, which lay at 
 her side, and our entrance appeared to have no more 
 effect upon her than it probably would, had one of 
 her own family entered. She continued her work. 
 This may be considered as the result of the confi- 
 
 * Humboldt's Researches, vol. i. p. 11.
 
 414 
 
 dence they repose in the whites, — the frequency of 
 their interviews with traders and travellers, and the 
 uniform justice which they have received from our 
 citizens and our government. We observed a num- 
 ber of smoked squirrels, fish, and ducks, hanging in 
 the upper part of the tent ; indicating a degree of 
 care, for the subsistence of their children, and fore- 
 cast as to the uncertainties of the chase, which is 
 highly honourable to the judgment and the paternal 
 feelings of these people. They have a method of 
 taking fish through the ice in the winter season^ 
 which is equally novel and ingenious. After a hole 
 has been cut through the ice, they encompass it 
 with a slender circular frame of rods, or a kind of 
 open basket, over which a blanket is thrown to ex- 
 clude the light. The savage now lays himself down 
 upon the ice, with his head under this hood, and 
 playing a decoy or artificial fish upon the surface of 
 the water with one hand, holds a drawn spear in the 
 other, and when the large trout suddenly dart up to 
 seize their fancied prey, pierces the body of his vic- 
 tim with unerring certainty. The spear is short, and 
 loosens itself from the handle the moment it is struck, 
 r5ut is attached to a strong line, with which he plays 
 the fish a while in the water below, and draws it 
 out as soon as it becomes sufficiently enfeebled with 
 the wound. This method of fishing was first noticed 
 by Mr. Hudson, a missionary among the Saganaws, 
 to whose manuscript journal lam permitted to refer 
 for the facts. 
 
 CXVIII. Day. —{September 18/^.) — Crossed Saga- 
 naw Bay, stopping an hour upon the island of Sha- 
 wangunk. and encamped in the eastern cove of Point
 
 115 
 
 aux "Barques ; — distance forty-two miles. The isl- 
 and of Shawangunk is an alluvial plain of four or five 
 miles in circumference, based upon a calcareous 
 rock which is compact, stratified, without organic 
 remains, and containing very large imbedded mass- 
 es of chalcedony, and calcareous spar. These, have 
 been broken out by the violence of the waves 
 around the margin of the island, and lie promiscu- 
 ously among the fragments of limestone torn up by 
 the storms, and among large boulders of granite, 
 hornblende, trap, greenstone porphyry, quartz, ar- 
 gillite, and sienite. The island is covered with a 
 beautiful growth of oak, and its numerous little bays 
 and inlets appear to be a favourite resort of aquatic 
 birds. 
 
 CXIX. Day. — (September 19th.)— Detained at Point 
 aux Barques, by head winds. An opinion is preva- 
 lent among the inhabitants of the region, that the 
 northwestern lakes are gradually running out, or in 
 other words, that the level of the waters is constant- 
 ly lowering : some suppose this diminution to take 
 place periodically, others, by a constant and imper- 
 ceptible exhaustion. 1 have been informed by an 
 intelligent person at Michilimackinac, who has been 
 in the habit of making observations upon the rocks 
 which project above the water, that the level of 
 Lake Huron has fallen a foot within the last eisrht 
 years. It has also been advanced, that this decrease 
 continues for a definite period of years, as seven, or 
 fourteen, and that at the expiration of a like period, 
 after sinking to its minimum level, it attains its for- 
 mer height in the same gradual and imperceptible 
 manner, and that thus a ceaseless ebbing and flow-
 
 no 
 
 ing of the lakes, is produced. A moment's reflec- 
 tion, however, will render it manifest that in a 
 country so extensive and thinly populated, a number 
 of circumstances may operate to produce a decep- 
 tion with respect to the permanent diminution ol 
 water, as the prevalence of certain winds, the quan- 
 tity of rain and snow that falls around their shores, 
 &c. There can be no doubt that the extra quan- 
 tum of water discharged during the spring and fall, 
 by the numerous streams and rivers flowing into 
 these lakes, produces a corresponding rise in the 
 lakes themselves, which sutler a gradual diminution 
 as midsummer approaches. It is also obvious, that 
 the evaporation of water, must vary greatly during 
 the different seasons, in our fluctuating climate ; and 
 produce a sensible departure from the standard lev- 
 els of the different lakes. Conclusions, therefore, 
 drawn from the appearances of any particular point 
 along this great chain, should be received with 
 great caution; and they must always be exposed to 
 error in the precise ratio that the temperature of the 
 air, the quantity of rain which has fallen, and the 
 prevalent winds, during the times which shall be se- 
 lected for experiment, shall have been correctly re- 
 gistered and compared. 
 
 Philosophers and geologists have not been want- 
 ing, who have attributed similar appearances to the 
 ocean itself, and the names of Celsius, Playfair, and 
 Jameson, may be quoted in support of the theory 
 that the level of the seas is gradually diminishing. — 
 It will be sufficient in this place to cite the opinion 
 of the admirable Cuvier on this subject. 
 
 "It has been asserted," he observes in his Theory 
 of the Larth, " that the sea is subject to a continual
 
 417 
 
 diminution of Us level, ami proofs of this 
 said to have been discovered in some parts of 
 the shores of the Baltic. Whatever may have 
 been the cause of these appearances, we certainly 
 know that nothing of the kind has been observed up- 
 on our coasts; and, consequently, that there has 
 been no general lowering ot the waters of the ocean. 
 The most ancient sea-ports still have their quays 
 and other erections at the same height above the 
 level of the sea as at their first construction. Cer- 
 tain general movements have been supposed in the 
 sea from east to west, or in other directions ; but no 
 where has any person been able to ascertain their 
 effects with the least degree of precision." 
 
 CXX, Day.-— {September 20th.)— The winds had 
 abated, but did not cease to oppose our progress at 
 daylight. We embarked at six o'clock in the morn- 
 ing—were driven ashore by the waves at seven — re- 
 embarked at nine, and proceeding against a light 
 head wind until eight in the evening, encamped on 
 the beach of the lake, at the distance of fifty mile?* 
 from Point aux Barques, 
 
 CXXI. Day.— (September 2 1 st.) — We quit our en* 
 campment at four in the morning, but were driven 
 ashore b$, the winds on going six miles ; and detain-' 
 ed during the remainder of the day. At the spot 
 of our encampment, organic remains are abundant, 
 in the detached masses of secondary limestone, 
 which are strewed along the lake. The shore is 
 sandy from the woods to the water, where there is 
 a bed of pebbles and large blocks of granite, horn-
 
 M 
 
 blende, quartz, micaslate, and greenstone ; but no 
 rock strata appear in situ. Among the loose masses 
 of rock, I noticed one of a ton weight, consisting 
 of granite made up of the usual constituents of feld- 
 spar, quartz, and mica; and also imbedding globu- 
 lar pebbles of hornblende porphyry, the latter 
 being composed of pure black hornblende, diver- 
 sified with fragments and crystals of feldspar, 
 quartz, and mixed granite. This fact I had previ- 
 ously noticed along other parts of the shore of Lake 
 Huron, and at Grosse Point, on Lake St. Clair. 
 
 CXXIL Day.— {September 22</.)— Embarking at 
 early daylight, we reached fort Gratiot at five 
 o'clock in the afternoon, after rowing twelve hours 
 against an unfavourable wind. Here we halted 
 half an hour — found the garrison under the com- 
 mand of Lieut. Webb, by whom we were received 
 with cordiality — and descending the river seven 
 miles, encamped at twilight upon Elk island, having 
 progressed fifty-seven miles. 
 
 CXX1II. Day. — {September 23d.) — On reaching 
 Elk island, we concluded to avail ourselves of a 
 calm night to descend the river, and after taking 
 supper and repairing our canoes, again embarked 
 at nine o'clock, and reached Lake St. Clair at half 
 past three in the morning. Here we were compelled 
 to await the dawning of day, as the fog and darkness 
 rendered it impracticable to effect the traverse du- 
 ring the night. Daylight brought with it a strong 
 head wind, and the lake became so much agitated, 
 that the voyngeurs considered it unsafe to cross. — 
 Urged by our impatience, however, to terminate the
 
 419 
 
 voyage, the experiment was hazarded; and not- 
 withstanding the rain, which shortly commenced, 
 and the increased violence of the wind, we effected 
 the crossing with perfect safety — passed Grosse 
 Point at noon, and landed at Detroit at half past* 
 three.
 
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