^ * ^^k. ^nw .^. Ml BY CAPT. JOUSIFFE E LINE, CANS JVNO CO., BRUSSELS II\TlMI.\RI) VM) SO\S. PICC\D!M.Y, ROAD-BOOK I ^T A Is "- ROAD-BOOK for travellers BY CAPT. JOUSIFFE, tlTHUIi OF STEAM-BOAT EXCURSION TO LISBON, CADIZ AMD GIBRAL- TAR, AND THE PORTS OF SPAIN IN THE MEDITERRANEAN IN 1856 GOMEZ FOLLOWED, OR 2000 MILES IN SPAIN, 1836 AND 1837 GENEVA AND CHAMOUN1, 1838 THE ROAD-BOOK FOR SWITZER- LAND, 1839 THE ROAD-BOOK FOR ITALY, 1839 THE EUROPEAN INDICATOR OR ROAD-BOOK FOR ALL COUNTRIES, 1840. S E O C XT D EDXTIOXT. bg MELINE, CANS AND CO., BRUSSELS. BAUDRY, RUE DU COQ ST. HONORE, PARIS. J. HATCHABD AND SONS, PICCADILLY, LONDON. 1840 ADVERTISEMENT. THE unprecedentedly quick sale of the first Edition of this little work has induced this early publication of a Second Edition, in which the Editor trusts that the numerous typographical imperfections and the errors of the first impression will be found to have been considerably diminished. He regrets that those typographical imperfections should have occurred, and begs leave to observe, that the work was pub- lished during his absence, and that he never saw a copy of it until the publication was completed. May 1st, 1840. 2011185 NOTICE. THE author of this work has within the last three years visited Lisbon, Cadiz, Gibraltar, and most of the ports of Spain in the Mediterranean ; he travers- ed on foot the road from Cadiz to Madrid, proceed- ing from thence, by Valencia, to Barcelona and to Port-Vendres, by one of the excellent French steam- ers that now run regularly between those ports. From Port-Vendres he crossed all France to the frontiers of Belgium and to Brussels, proceeding to England by way of Antwerp. Again across France in the direction of Germany and into Switzerland, the whole of which he minutely explored, and viii NOTICE, which he has endeavoured to describe in his Road- Book for Switzerland, published last year (1839). From Switzerland he passed the Alps, by the Sim- plon, into Italy. His route in that country he endea- vours to describe in the following pages, and con- fining himself strictly to the roads and places he visited, he will, he hopes, avoid the errors so fre- quently found in the Guide-Books of the present day, most of which are notoriously copies of old works which are more calculated to lead the traveller astray than afford him the required information. Many new roads have been called into existence, old ones have been stopped up, interesting objects have been discovered, new hotels have been erected, besides other establishments, which the traveller can know nothing about if he happens, which is the case nine times out of ten, to get a copy of an old Guide-Book foisted upon him for a new one. In ad- dition to this, there are now English residents, bank- ers, merchants, physicians, surgeons and tradesmen in almost every principal town in Italy, the whole of whom contribute in some way to the convenience and comfort of the traveller. 1 The author of these Travellers upon the contirif-nt, but more particularly in Italy, will do NOTICE. ix pages is a very old traveller : he was in Spain from 1810 lo 1813; in India with sir Stamford Raffles, when he was Governor of Batavia; at the Cape of Good Hope during the time of lord Charles Somerset, and, during the confinement of the em- peror Napoleon, twice visited Saint Helena, the now historical and never to be forgotten rock, once the prison and still the grave of a man, the remembrance of whom is so vividly called to mind by such works as the great military roads of the Mount Cenis, the Simplon, and other gigantic undertakings of his creative genius. well to sey the English, are well supplied with goods of every description, imported direct from England, and which may be had !>y applying to the tradesmen whose addresses are given in this book. CONTENTS. P6- ADVERTISEMENT * NOTICE Vii INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION XVii Passports xvii Money xviii Bankers xx Posting in Italy xxii Voituriers xxv Diligences xxviii Steam-boats xxx The inns of Italy xxxii The country xxxiv Baggage and requisites for a journey . . . xxxiv Directions for travelling. ..... xxxvi Couriers xxxvii Description of carriage ...... xxxvii Post relays in Switzerland xxxix Population of the different States and principal cities of Italy xl Chapter I. ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO MILAN 1 Post-relays from Geneva to Milan .... 2 Expense of posting ....... 3 Hotels at Geneva , St. Gingolph, St. Maurice, Marti- gny, Sion, Tourtemagne, the Simplon, Domo d'Ossola, Fariolo, Baveno, Arona, Sesto Calende, Varcse and Como. 4 The Como^steam-packet . . . . . .11 Route from Geneva to the Simplon . . . .11 Passage of the Simplon 15 Hotels at Milan 20 MILAN. . 26 xii CONTENTS. Chapter II. Page. HOUTE FROM MILAN TO FLORENCE, BY PARMA, MODENA AND BOLOGNA 29 Principal routes from Milan . .... 29 Expense of posting ....... 32 Hotels at Piacenza, Fiorenzuola, Parma and Bologna . 32 Routes and distances from Bologna . . . .35 Hotel at Lojano ....... 56 Route from Milan to Bologna . . . . .37 PARMA 38 MODENA .......... 39 BOLOGNA 40 Route from Bologna to Florence . . . . .42 Hotels at Florence ....... 43 FLORENCE 48 English Divine Service ...... 51 Bankers ......... 53 Resident English physicians . . . . .54 Resident English surgeon ...... 55 Professor of languages ...... 55 Apothecaries ........ 55 English booksellers ....... 55 Public library ........ 56 English agents, wine-merchants, mosaics, fancy-ware- house, grocery, perfumery, English tailor, elc. . . 56 English livery stables, veterinary surgeon . . .59 Chapter III. ROUTE FROM FLORENCE TO ROME . . . . .61 Post-relays and number of posts by Sienna . .61 Do. do. by Perugia . . 62 Expense of posting ....... 63 Hotels at Sienna, Radicofani, Monte Fiascone and Ron- ciglione ......... 63 CONTENTS. xiii I'age. Description of the road to Rome by Sienna . . .64 65 ROME 69 Principal hotels at Rome ...... 70 Principal restaurateur . . . . . .75 Houses and apartments furnished . . . .75 Objects to visit at Rome ...... 70 Protestant Divine Service ...... 79 British consular agent, bankers, agents . . .80 Painters, sculptors, works in bronze and other metals, pastes, sulphurs, etc .81 Resident physicians and surgeon . . . .83 Climate of Rome 83 Apothecary 84 Agents for the shipment of works of art,' correspond- ence with India ........ 81 Mosaics, cameos, objects of art, engravings . . 85 Silk-warehouses, milliners, dress-makers, repositories for ladies ......... 87 Wines, grocery, etc -89 Saddlery, harness, tailors ...... 90 Lithographic printer ....... 91 Coiffeur . . . 91 Voilurier . . . . . . . . . .91 Hotels on the route from Rome to Naples . . .92 Livery stables ........ 9.1 Church ceremonies at Rome ..... 93 Carnival ......... 95 Theatres, promenades ...... 96 Chapter IV. ROUTE FROM ROME TO NAPLES 97 Post- relays from Rome to Naples . . . .97 Do. from Rome to Civita Vecchia , 98 \iv CONTENTS. r 8 . Expense of posting . . . . . . .98 Hotels at Cisterna, Mola di Gaeta and Capua . . 99 From Rome to Naples over the Pontine marshes. . 100 TERRAC1NA 103 Fondi, Hri, Mola, Sessa, Capua, Aversa . . . 104 NAPLES 106 Charges at the principal hotels 107 Hackney coaches, valels de place, carriages . .108 Principal hotels at Naples 109 Situation of Naples ; objects best worth notice . .113 Environs of Naples 116 English Divine Service ; caisse de blenfaisance pour les Strangers. . . . . . . . . .117 British minister at Naples 118 Climate; thermal waters . . . . . .118 Macaroni . . . . . . . . .122 British bankers, merchants, etc. .... 123 Resident physicians . . . . . . .123 Surgeons . . . 124 Chemist, dentist, corn-cutler ..... 124 British library and reading-rooms .... 126 Agents, corals, English coach-maker, silk-warehouse, child-bed-linen, grocery, wine-merchants, etc. . . 127 Saddler, livery stables . . . . . .131 Environs of Naples ....... 131 Hotels in the environs of Naples . . . .132 Chapter V. ROUTE FROM NAPLES TO ROME BY THE VIA LATIlfA . . 135 Hotels at Capua, Ceprano and Rome .... 139 ROUTE FROM ROME TO FLORENCE BY PERUGIA . . .140 Civita Castellana, Otncoli, Narni, Terni, Spoleto, Foli- gno, Assisi . 141 PERUGIA . .144 CONTENTS. xv Page. Lake of Thrasymenus, Cortona, Arezzo, San Giovanni, Valombrosa . . 145 Hotel at Perugia 148 ROCTE FROM FLORENCE TO LEGHORN 149 Expense of posting . . . . . . .149 Principal hotels at Leghorn . . . . .150 LEGHORN 152 Protestant Divine Service . . . . . .153 British consul .154 British agents, mercantile establishments, repositories, works in marble and alabaster, warehouses, groceries, wine-merchants, etc. . . . . . . .154 Objects worth notice at Leghorn; population . . 157 Chapter VI. ROCTE FROM LEGHORN TO PISA 158 PISA 158 The leaning tower. ....... 158 Churches, baths, climate, etc 159 Banking establishment ...... 160 Hotels at Pisa 161 English warehouse ....... 162 ROUTE FROM PISA TO LUCCA 163 Hotels at Lucca 163 LUCCA 164 Valley of the Serchio 164 Hotels at the Baths of Lucca 165 Description of the Baths 167 ROUTE FROM LUCCA TO GENOA 168 Massa, Lavenza ....... 168 Carrara, Sarzana, Gulf of Spezzia .... 169 Spezzia, Borghetlo, Passage of the Bracco . . . 170 Sestri, Chiavari ....... 171 Rapallo, Ruta 172 Hotels at Genoa . 172 xvi CONTENTS. ra;;<:. GENOA . . . . . . ,, . . .174 Palaces, churches, etc. ...... 174 KOITB FROM GENOA TO NICE 176 Riviera of Genoa 176 .MCE 177 Climate of Nice ....... 177 English physician and surgeon . . . . .178 Protestant Divine Service . . . . . .178 ROUTE FROM GENOA TO TURIN 178 Novi, Marengo, Monument to the memory of Desaix. 179 Alessandria, Asti . 180 Hotels at Turin 181 TURIN 185 Environs of Turin . . . . . . .184 ROUTE FROM TURIN TO MILAN 184 Vercelli, Novara . . . ... . .185 ROUTE FROM MILAN BY THE SPLDGEN-PASS TO BALE. . 185 Lecco, Varenne . . . . . . . .186 Chiavenna . . . . . . . . .188 The Splugen 191 Coire .......... 193 Hotels at Ragatz, Wesen, Rapperswyl, Zurich. Baden, Brugg and Bale 195 Appendix. London Custom-House agency . . . . .197 Medical hall at Paris 200 Rhenish Steam Navigation Cologne Company . . 202 Eau de Cologne 206 Hotel at Kehl, opposite Strasbourg . . . . 207 Road-books for Italy and for Switzerland . . . 208 The European Indicator ...... 209 INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. Passports Money Bauki-rs -Toiling Voiliiricrs Diligences Steam-packets Italian inns The country Baggage Requisites for a journey in Italy Directions for travelling Couriers Descriptio'n of carriage Posl-relays in Switzerland I'linulation of the different States and principal cities of Italy. PASSPORTS. TRAVELLERS whose passports have not already been signed by the minister of Austria, and a minister or consul of Sardinia, must not think of leaving Geneva, until that necessary form is complied with. To obtain the former, the passport must be forwarded to Berne ; the safest way to get this done is to request the clerk at the Passport-office to send it on; he will lake care it is done properly and return it quicker than you could otherwise get it. The charge is 3 francs. The signature of the Sardinian con- sul can be obtained at Geneva upon payment of 4 francs. The author of these pages, with his family and servants, left Geneva with their passports signed in two instances by the authorities of Sardi- nia, but not by a minister or consul; upon their arrival at the miserable village of Isella (where there is a frontier custom-house and passport- office of Piedmont) they were detained and even threatened to be turned back to the village of Simplon; it was only by entreaty, and showing that one of the party was really ill, that (hey obtained permis- 6 xviii MONEY. sion to send on (heir courier to the commandant at Dome d'Ossola ; who with pretended difficulty allowed them to proceed to that town, with an order that they must take up their quarters at a particular inn, the Hdtel-de-Fille or Paste, and there wait until the passport was sent to the governor of the district, at INovara, who would perhaps affix his signature to it and allow them to proceed to Milan ; in the event of his refusing we were comforted with the assurance, that we must retrace our steps over the Simplon. After being kept in this way for three days the passport was returned without the signature of the governor, but merely signed by the chief of police at l)omo d'Ossola, and we were permitted to proceed. This was a piece of chicanery on the part of the officer ; for it afterwards appeared pretty clearly, that this .-aid com- mandant at Domo d'Ossola^was the particular friend and companion of mine host of the Post, and was in the habit, if hr could contrive to do so in any way, right or wrong, of detaining families in this manner, and no doubt sharing the trifling profit that might be derived from them with the landlord of the hotel. (Author.) MONEY. NAPOLEONS, or flve-franc pieces, are the best money a tra- veller can supply himself with; they are current and understood better than any other money both in Switzer- land and Italy : in fact from Geneva to Milan all transactions are in French francs; at Milan it is easily changed into the most current coin, the zwanziger, or livrc of Austria, worth about 17 sous of France. The money-changers generally give 23 '/ zwanzigers for the napoleon ; the shop- keepers will however sometimes take the napoleon for 24 zwanzigers. The traveller should not take more of this coin than he is likely to want, as it is only available in the Lombardo-Venetian States. The most current money of the Papal Slates is the buioccho, the paul, the scudo, or dollar. The baioccho is a large copper coin, 10 of which make a paul. MONEY. xix 10 pauls equal lo 1 scudo or Roman dollar. "! pauls 1 napoleon. 44 pauls 1 pound sterling. 9 pauls 2 haiocchi equal lo 1 five-franc piece. At Florence and throughout the Tuscan States the most current coins are The crazia, 8 of which are equal to 1 paul. The pad, 10 1 francescone . The napoleon is worth 37 pauls. The pound sterling 44 The Neapolitan money consists of the ducato or ducat, the carlino and the grano. 10 {jrani are equal to 1 carlino. 10 carlini 1 ducato. 47 carlini 1 napoleon. 12 carlini 1 Neapolitan piaster. The value of the napoleon varies from 46 '/. to 47 '/ a carlini, according to the exchange. At the exchange of 578 grains to the pound sterling, The carlino is equal to 4 d. 1/6 sterling. The ducat 3 *.. 1/2 The piaster 4 *. 2 it. In Genoa and the States of Piedmont the current money is of the same value as in France, viz. The livre of Piedmont is equal to 1 fr. The piece of 5 livres 5 The gold piece of 20 liv. .. 20 In the smaller States, such as Lucca, Modeua, etc., the stranger will find the coins of Piedmont and France the most useful and best understood. xx BANKERS. BANKING HOUSES. TRAVELLEBS, especially in Italy, will find it advantageous and always useful to provide themselves with the bills of exchange of Messrs. Herries and Co. , bankers of St. James's- street, Messrs. Hammersley's of Pall-Mall, or some other London banking houses of equal respectability : those circular bills (letters of credit) are issued for any amount exceeding 20 /. st., and are addressed to near one hundred and eighty correspondents upon the continent, so that the traveller may depend upon receiving cash for them, as often as he may desire it, at the rate of the exchange of the day, and in the currency of the country he may be in, without any deduction for commission or otherwise. As those circular bills or letters of credit are in the present day looked upon by many of those to whom they are addressed as letters of introduction and are indeed fre- quently the means of the bearers of them being invited to the parties of the continental bankers and mixing probably with the first society of the place, and as they are some- times addressed to more than one firm in the same city or town, it becomes an important consideration with the traveller, first that he should obtain his circular bills and credits from houses of known respectability, secondly that he should address himself with them to houses of the greatest consideration wherever he may happen to be ; for it sometimes occurs that one establishment has both the means and the desire to be more serviceable than another. For instance, where there is a resident British envoy, the partners of those firms whose business is confined to banking, or merchants and bankers, are generally in- vited to the public parties of the ambassador, and have BANKERS. xxi the means of obtaining a like invitation for their friends; whilst another firm who are bankers and retail-dealers are not considered eligible for this honour, however respectable Ihey may be in point of credit or capital, and consequently being uninvited themselves, they have not the means of obtaining invitations for their friends. It is also frequently the case that in disputes and situations of difficulty, that are sometimes unavoidable, a reference of respectability is of the greatest service, and the more res- pectable the house is, the greater weight their interference will have. It is but fair to state that, generally speaking, the houses to whom those circular bills are addressed are ready to assist those who bear them with advice, and some of them do it with much courtesy, others as a mere matter of business ; this is particularly the case if mere letters of credit are carried. With a circular letter the author of this book received much attention and kindness from the bankers of Germany, Switzerland, and Italy, and frequently received invitations to very pleasant and agreeable parties ; with this experience, he would advise all persons to provide themselves with those circular bills or letters, and if amongst others they have the names of the following firms upon them, they may rely upon re- ceiving politeness and attention from them, even if they do not need their assistance in a pecuniary way. At Brussels : Messrs. Engler, Brugmann and liohne. Geneva Messrs. Hentsch and Co. Lombard, Odier and Co. Louis Pictet. Milan : Messrs. Pasteur, Girod and Co. Florence : Messrs. Plowden, French and Co. Bogle Kerrick and Co. b. xxii POSTING IN ITALY. Home : Messrs. Freeborn, Jones and Co. Torlonia and Co. Naples : Either of the several firms named as bankers and merchants in chapter IV. Genoa : Messrs. Gibbs and Co. Paris : Messrs. Ferrier Laffitte and Co. In case of need, either of these firms will give the tra- veller a credit upon any place he may he proceeding to, as most of them have connexions in all large towns upon the continent ; and they will also pay money for him in London or any place on the continent, or provide him with a bill payable to order at sight. In fact they do every description of banking business, so that the traveller who has provided himself with those circular bills or letters of credit, never need be at a loss about money matters. POSTING IN ITALY. THE length of the mile in Italy differs considerably. The mile of Lombardy is about 60 yards less than an English mile. The mile of the Papal States and of Tuscany, 150 yards short of an English milo. The (Neapolitan mile is 250 yards longer than the English mile. The post of Lombardy is between 6 and 7 English miles. The post of the Papal Stales, 7 Engl. miles 4 furlongs. Tuscany, 8 1 Piedmont and Genoa, 6 4 An order must be obtained from the police for post- horses; without it, no postmaster will furnish them. The tariff, which the poslmasler is always obliged to exhibit, points out the number of horses you are obliged to pay POSTI1\ 7 G IN ITALY. xxiii for, which varies according to the description of the car- riage, the number of persons and the weight of luggage. It is well to observe the date of the tariff, as alterations are sometimes made, which if in favour of the traveller are frequently taken advantage of by showing an old tariff. Pay for the horses in advance, it prevents any dispute at the next relay; pay the postilions when their service is at an end, and then according to their conduct. The charge for posthorses in Piedmont and Genoa is a franc and a half each horse per post. The postilion according to the tariff, 15 sous per post; he is however invariably paid 30 sous. The horse for the avant-courier may sometimes be obtained for less than the price of a posthorse, which is the usual charge if not bargained for previously. Passage of the Simplon. POSTMASTERS on both sides of the mountain have the right to attach one extra-horse to light carriages, two or three, or even more, to heavy ones ; they cannot however compel travellers to take more than six to any carriage whatever. From the 1st of November to the 30th of April, the price of poslhorses upon the Simplon is 2 francs each horse per post. The price of a pair of posthorses in Lombardy is 5 fr. 50 c. per post. For an open carriage furnished hy the postmaster, 40 cent, per post. A close carriage, 80 cent, per post. The postilion (by tariff) 1 fr. 50 cent, per post. He is however usually paid 3 fr. The prices of poslhorses in the dutchies of Parma and Modcua, are the same as in Lombardy, except upon cross-roads, where 2 fr. per post are added to the ahove. (jiuthor.) xxiv POSTING IN ITALY. pauls The price of a pair oi : posthorses in Tuscany is .10 per post. The price of every extra-horse is 4 The price of a horse for a courier 5 For every postilion the charge per tariff is ... 5 The postilion however expects and usually gets . . 5 On quitting Florence the traveller pays extra for each horse 1 The postilion expects (extra) 1 >' The ostler at the post-relays is paid 1/2 For every carriage with two places furnished by the postmaster, his charge is 3 For a carriage with four places 6 Travellers can discontinue posting and engage voilurier- horses whenever they please in Tuscany. Posting in the principality of Lucca is the same as in Tuscany, except that in quitting Lucca 15 pauls are charged for every pair of horses. And should you desire to leave off posting and travel en voiturier, twenty-four hours must elapse before you can continue your journey. In the Roman States THE posting is the same as in Tuscany, except that the tariff gives to the postilion 3 / a pauls per post ; he however expects and usually gets i> pauls per post. On quitting Rome an extra half-post is charged. In the kingdom of Naples carlini The charge for every posthorse is 6 per post. The charge for the courier's horse 6 The postilion for each horse per tariff 1 1/2 He expects and is usually paid (i For all royal posts an extra half-post is charged. VOITURIERS. xxv The postmaster's charge for a carriage with two cariini inside places is 5 per post. For four inside places 10 > The ostler's fee at the provincial posthouses is half a carlino; in Naples, 1 carlino; he is not content unless he gets double that sum. The ostlers in Italy are a most difficult people (o satisfy ; give them what you will, they arc never content. (Author.} VOITURIERS. IT is considerably less troublesome and much more econo- mical to travel en voituiier, than to travel post in Italy ; with good horses they will travel upon an average forty- five or fifty Roman miles a day. Persons travelling in their own carriage are charged from 12 to 1 1 francs for each horse per day. If the voitu- rier provides a carriage , the charge is only from 8 to 10 francs each horse per day, as he has then an opportunity of making money by taking a back-fare. For about 6 francs a day per head, and half that sum for children, the voiturier will undertake to provide a party with breakfast, dinner (or rather supper), and beds; for servants the charge is 4 '/* francs per day. It is however not advisable for travellers to make this arrangement. The voiturier, to make as much out of his passenger as he can, is never very choice as to the houses he stops at ; where he does, he drives a hard bar- gain wilh the innkeeper who only provides accordingly, and in addition to this the worst bed-rooms are allotted to the traveller in this way ; so that long before he arrives at the end of his journey he is thoroughly disgusted, in xxvi VOITURIERS. addition to which he finds that his extra-expenses lor wants not included in his contract amount to as much as if he had paid his own expenses, and often more. This is a difficult point however to give advice upon ; if the traveller insists upon paying his own expenses, the voitu- rler insists upon sharing the profit with the innkeeper, so that whichever way it is, the innkeeper is at the mercy of these men ; for to affront them by not acceding to their demands is to lose their custom with the next parly they travel that way with, and not only theirs but of others of their tribe with whom they are connected. This is really a crying evil, and I was assured by many of the most respectable innkeepers, that they would be most happy to join in doing away with the system, so as to relieve them- selves and travellers generally, from being subject to the impositions of this set of men. The only way to do this, that I can point out, is, for travellers, to make their bar- gain for the horses and driver only, etc.; to insist upon going to inns of their own choosing, name the price they mean to pay for meals, beds, etc. to the landlord, and if he is sincere in his desire to do away with the evil, he will accept a reasonable proposal, and be firm in refusing to share his just profits with the voiturier. All agreements with voituriers should be made in wri- ting, and signed by each of the contracting parlies. In it should be slated the number of miles they are to travel daily; whelher the driver is to ride as postilion or as coachman ; thai the sum agreed upon shall include all lolls and taxes whatever, and for extra-horses up steep ascents; thai he shall find fresh horses if his own fall ill or lame ; lhat the driver is to clean the carriage, grease the wheels and assist in packing and unpacking the lug- VOITURIERS. xxvii gage; how much the charge is to be reduced on the days a halt is made in a town or elsewhere; and should the traveller require the horses for an hour or two in the town, this should make no difference; and if horses only are engaged, what back-fare is to be paid. In Italy, where a carriage and horses are engaged, it is seldom that back-fare is demanded, the voiturier cal- culating upon making something considerable by return- travellers. It is better, in the first instance, not to make the en- gagement for any specific time, at least not until man and horses have been tried. By taking him from day to day, and holding out the prospect of his being con- tinued if he behaves well, you will generally get better served. The usual fee, or buona mono, given to a voiturier that conducts himself well, is 2 '/, or 3 francs per day, if the journey is a long one, and double that sum if the journey is a short one. On entering the Tuscan territory, every voiturin (who is not Tuscan) pays a tax of two Tuscan pauls per horse. Foreign travelling carriages with four wheels and springs pay four Tuscan pauls; carriages without springs pay two Tuscan pauls. On entering Capua, every toiturin pays one Neapolitan ducat per wheel. At the Simplon-Barrier every voiiurin pays 6 francs per horse. On entering the Papal States, four-wheel-carriages pay a tax of from 12 to 14 francs; the traveller should upon no account omit to take a printed receipt; if he proceeds without it he will be obliged to pay the amount over xxviii DILIGENCES. again upon re-entering the Roman Stales after passing through Bologna. I endeavoured lo obtain some information respcctingthis tax, but could not get any; a tariff was shown, and right or wrong, 1 was obliged to pay both in going, and returning through the States of the Pope. Not- withstanding the tariff, I could not help thinking there was some juggle in Ihu business. (Author.') The Neapolitan Poilurier Is the \vorst in Italy ( they are all bad enough ) ; he thinks nothing of breaking his engagement, if he can meet with a better; it is therefore advisable to insist upon having a deposit, lo be returned upon the fulfilment of his con- tract ; 4 or S scudi are sufficient to bind him; the amount so deposited should be named in the agreement, to prevent dispute at the settlement Those Neapolitan drivers will put themselves in a vile rage even about a grano. The only way in such cases, is to treat the matter with perfect indifference, let him stamp and rave on, and should it turn to a cry, which is not improbable, laugh at him, and when he finds he really cannot cheat you, he will with all the polileness imaginable bid you good day, and wish you a pleasant journey. DILIGENCES Now run from Milan to all parts of the Lombardo-Vcne- tian kingdom, and passengers may also be booked, for France, Belgium, Piedmont and Switzerland daily; for Rome twice a week, Tuesdays and Fridays ; and for Genoa Sundays and Wednesdays. The bureau of the diligences is in the .cm del Monte, {5499. The bureau of the malles-postes or Imperial diligences. DILIGENCES. xxix under the direction of the" Postoffice, is in the via dei Rastrelli. Passengers may also book themselves here for almost any journey to accompany the couriers, or by the veloci feres. A diligence leaves this office every day, except Sunday, for Seslo Calende, in connexion with the steamer on the lake Maggiore; fare 7 Austrian livres, or 6 francs 19 sous : and for Como daily, in time for the steamer that leaves Como in the morning; fare 3 livres of Austria, or 4 francs 3 sous. Dutchy of Tuscany. THE diligence from Florence to Milan is the only one in the grand-dutchy at present; passengers may however book themselves by the malle-poste ; it is confidently stated that diligences will be established upon all the prin- cipal roads of Tuscany in 1840. Ecclesiastical States. THERE is a service of diligences between Rome and Naples, as well as the malles-postes, that also take passengers. Diligences also run from Rome to Ferrara and Bologna in connexion with the Austrian diligences from Ferrara to Venice. Kingdom of Naples. TWICE a week diligences leave Naples, taking passengers along the whole line of the four great roads of the king- dom; others leave daily, for the principal towns. carlini. The fare to Salerno, is 15 Avellino . .18 tx STEAM-BOATS. The bureau of the Royal diligences is at the Postoffice. For the environs of Naples, 7o, largo del Castello. For Rome, 6, largo del Castello. The general Postoffice is in the strada del Castello. STEAM-BOATS. Logo Magtjiore. A steam-boat runs daily from Magadino to Sesto Calende, except Sundays; it arrives in time to meet the diligence from Milan, returning the same day to Magadino. The price of places is fixed at 6 Austrian livres (5 fr. 20 c.). This boat takes passengers for Arona, Belgirate, Baveno, the Borromcan Isles, and other intermediate places. The price varies according to the distance. Lake of Como. THE steam-boat is arranged in the same manner as the one on the lake 3Iaggiore, and the price is the same. It departs and returns to Como every day, and lakes passen- gers for Torno, Teriggia, Nesso, Cavagnola, Isola Tre- mezzina, Bellaggio, Domaso, Colico, and generally for all places situated between Como and Domaso. Lake of Garda. THE steam-boat runs daily from Desenzano to the river di Trento, louching alternately at the river di Salo and Mount Baldo. Price of first places, 6 Austrian livres ; second, 4 do. Adriatic Sea. STEA.SERS depart twice a week from Triest for Venice, STEAM-BOA IS. xxxi and make Ihe voyage in fine weather in eight lo twelve hours. The first places for ladies are 50 Austrian livres, and for gentlemen 27. From Triest to Corfu the steam- boat makes the passage four or five times a month. Mediterranean Sea. STEAM-BOATS are established for traversing this sea in all directions and touching at the principal maritime towns on the coast of Italy. They arc so arranged that they depart several times a week for Genoa, Leyhorn, Cfcita- fecchia and Naples. From Genoa to Marseilles they depart on the 9lh, 19lh and 29th of every month. fr. Pi-ice of the first places 110 second . . * 102 third 62 From Marseilles to Genoa they depart the yth, loth and 2ath of every month. The price of places as above. From Genoa to Leghorn and Civila-Vecchia the depar- tures are on the 7th, 17th and 27th of every month. fr. To Leghorn : First places 62 Second 55 Third 35 To Civila Vecchia : First places 124 Second 115 Third 76 From Genoa to Naples, departs on the 7lh, 17lh and 27lh of every month. fr. Price of the first places 172 * second 163 third 97 xxxii THE INNS OF ITALY. From Leghorn to Civila-Vecchia, departs on the 8th, 18th and 28th of every month. From Civita-Vecchia'to Naples, the 9th, 19th and 29th of every month. From Naples to Palermo, the price of places is 20 ducats for the first, and 12 for the second. From Genoa to Cagliari, there is a new arrangement established for the steam-boat, to make the passage seve- ral times a month. From Marseilles there are frequent departures of steam- ers for Port-fenfires, Barcelona, Valencia, and the inter- mediate ports of Spain, and from Valencia to Gibraltar, taking in and landing passengers at Malaga, and all the intermediate ports. At Gibraltar the English steamers arrive twice a week, and HI them passengers may embark for Cadiz, Lisbon, Oporto, Vigo, Falmouth and London, in the splendid vessels of Messrs. Wucox and ANDERSON which carry the government mails. In 1836 the author made this delightful voyage : he left Falmouth early in November, with a clouded and heavy sky, and very cold weather ; in three days he was in Lisbon, with a heavenly sky enjoying the warmth of an English summer. From Lisbon to Cadiz is a beautiful run of twenty-four hours. The voyage from Gibraltar to Naples is beyond description beautiful ; to an invalid not too far gone no particular climate can possibly hold out the hopes of a relurn to health, that a voyage of (his description does ; the conlinued change of scene and air, without fatigue, and the excitement of a sea voyage, must surely have a better effect than the sedentary life they lead if they settle down in sucli places as Lisbon, Madeira, and other spots that are generally re- commended to them. (Author.} THE INNS OF ITALY ARE, notwithstanding the great increase of travellers THE INNS OF ITALY. xxxiU within these twenty years, still the worst of any country in Europe, excepting those of the great and most fre- quented towns, such as Milan, Venice, Bologna, Florence, Rome and Naples, and some few that are scattered upon the great roads; it is a lamentable fact, that even at the present day the traveller is obliged, however short his stay is intended to he, to alight from his carriage and bargain not only for the apartments he desires to occupy, but for the meals for himself and servants, and indeed for every trifling thing he may want. Should he neglect this, he is presented with a bill upon his departure (and which is frequently not forthcoming until the last minute), that at once taxes his good temper and forbearance, in no small degree; the most respectable innkeepers admit this evil, it has however become by habit so much a custom that it is better to prevent disputes, (which generally end in the traveller being obliged to pay however exorbitant the charge may be,) to conform to the custom of the country. When once the bargain is made, it is strictly adhered to by the innkeeper, who appears perfectly unconscious of the disgust he excites in the mind of an Englishman by asking frequently double the price he means to lake. As however there are good and bad in all countries, so there are in Italy some good and highly respectable innkeepers, whose establishments, both in outward appearance and internal comforts, vie with the best hotels of England, France or Germany. Those situated upon the route tra- velled by the author, he gives a description of in their places, and he recommends them with confidence to the traveller. xxxiv BAGGAGE AND REQUISITES THE COUNTRY OF Italy has been so often and so ably described, that the author deems it unnecessary to do more than advise the traveller to avoid if possible sleeping in the plains; his oivn love of that health in the breeze and freshness in the gale! tvhich is so exciting and bracing in the mountains, he should seek for the pleasure and spirit of breathing. He should also avoid sleeping near rice- grounds, or near the ponds, particularly where the natives steep their hemp; such places are deleterious and produce fever. The wines of Italy are generally very fine, exceedingly wholesome, and some are of great celebrity ; there is scarcely a hut in the mountains, or villages, but where they may be obtained. BAGGAGE AND REQUISITES FOR A JOURNEY. THIS is an important consideration for a traveller in any country, and must in a great measure be governed by the object of the parly in travelling. If it is merely for plea- sure, and he is moving about from place to place, the less he has with him the better, it saves many annoyances, such as being detained at the custom-houses, importuned by porters, etc. etc. Even invalids will find the number of things usually recommended unnecessary, as they can at present be had when required in all large towns, and many of the smaller ones, imported direct from London and Paris. Indeed English manufactured articles from the best makers, may be had in the most remote places in Italy, particularly in the Roman and Tuscan States. Medicines for the journey had probably belter be procured FOR A JOl'RKEY. xxxv in London, although there are now English professional gentlemen, and shops which are in the habit of making up English prescriptions in every large town. Clothes of every sort may be procured in Italy as cheap as in London; and in Florence, Rome, and Naples, there arc good r.nglish tailors; their address is given under the heads of tradesmen at those places. Those who sketch should provide English paper, it is far preferable to any other for drawing. The best lead-pencils are those made by S. MORDEN and Co., Castle-street, Finsbury-square. London ; I he pure lead of those sliding points has attained so deserved a celebrity that MORDEN and Co. have lately employed the same material in cedar-pencils, which surpass all others for the use of draftsmen. Travellers going to Italy or any part of the continent, will save themselves a great deal of annoyance, trouble and expense, by sending their surplus baggage and any other article they want abroad, to a respectable custom- house agent, through whom they may safely have it for- warded; they may also through him receive any article they may require during their slay abroad, by addressing him with an order to that effect. These agents generally have correspondents in the principal towns, to whom they consign packages for transmission to the owners, or to be held until their arrival. The names of these corres- pondents will be found in their proper places, and to their care the traveller may safely leave baggage, works of art. or any other purchases he may make abroad to be forwarded to England. The addresses of the most respectable London agents arc also given (Appendix, page 197). For Italy, bag- gage, etc. should be directed to be shipped for Leghorn. Chita- Vecchia, orlSapIes; the conveyance is certain and the xxxvi DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLING. expense moderate from those ports; works of art are pur- chased in any of those places arid are safely forwarded to England. All packages sent to England must be consigned to an agent at the custom-house, no private property can well be passed without one ; besides by having them consigned to a respectable house, all anxiety is avoided. The custom- house agents are authorized by the commissioner of cus- toms, and are under a bond for a thousand pounds for the security of all goods that are consigned to them. It would be well for travellers in Italy to provide themselves with a pocket door-bolt, wbich is easily fixed on where the locks are unsafe and the doors fit ill, and although they may most probably never lie wanted, a pair of English detonating pistols are better than any lliat can be bought on the continent. (Author.} DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLING. TRAVELLERS who would avoid inconvenience and deten- tion, should be particular in not carrying anything with them, which is contraband; should their friends request them to convey a parcel, they should take care that it does not contain anything contraband, or sealed letters for which public conveyances are provided. It is always desirable to obtain letters to ambassadors, consuls and persons of rank, talent and importance : such, arid letters of credit which require personal deli- very, are permitted to be carried, provided they are unsealed. The best men-servants for the continent are undoubt- edly English (if they are sober and steady), Swiss and Germans; the Italians are idle and cheat, particularly DESCRIPTION OF CARRIAGE. xxxvii in their own country ; the French are dandies. French female-servants are to be preferred to any others for travelling. COURIERS WILL add much to the ease of travellers who can afford to be cheated. Your courier will precede you on your journey, secure apartments, have the meals ready by the lime you arrive, and pay the bill for you at your de- parture, not forgetting to exact a large share of the inn- keeper's profit, for taking you to his hotel, besides having partaken of what is best in the house, and slept in a best bed, for all which he does not pay one farthing. Cou- riers are indeed a most rapacious set : if a courier pays the servants at the inns or the postilions on the road, he pockets something from their remuneration; if you make a purchase, even if he be not with you, he will call upon the shopkeeper and demand a gratuity in proportion to the money laid out : to the respectable class of innkeepers these men are a great nuisance, and they much prefer receiving a family without one. It is remarkable the difference in the amount of the bills at the inns when a family has a courier and when they travel without one; however well he may know a place, he will not act as valet de place without a special agreement is made to that effect when he is hired. THE DESCRIPTION OF CARRIAGE TOR a continental excursion, depends so much upon the number of the party and the quantity of luggage they xxxviii DESCRIPTION OF CARRIAGE. require to carry with them, that it is only to refer to the tariff of posting, and the traveller will best decide for himself. It is sufficient to observe here, that Calashes with a pole carrying one or two persons, pay for one pair of horses ; if more persons are carried, they pay the extra-charge according to the tariff. Limonieres, a class of carriages with shafts, carrying from one to three persons, pay for three horses ; if more persons are carried, they pay the extra-charge according to the tariff. Berimes and other carriages having double seats and drawn by a pole, must have four horses, whether with one or four persons; if five or six persons, six horses; all persons above that number pay the usual extra-charge per tariff. Two children under seven years of age, are charged as one person. Above seven years of age the child is rec- koned as a grown-up person. Custom has introduced many infringements of the post-regulations of most continental States, and the tra- veller, by making proper arrangements at setting out, may, by paying for four horses and taking three, save the expense of a postilion ; in this case shafts are substi- tuted for the pole, which is lashed below the perch. In fitting up carriages for travelling upon the conti- nent, MESSRS. NURSE AND CO., (late NURSE and WARREJ) The extensive coach-builders of 43, Crawford-street, Bryanstone-square, HAVE had long experience; they render them most com- POST-RELAYS IN SWITZERLAND. x.xxix rnodious and convenient for a journey; Ihcir carriages are likewise highly recommendable for solidity and ele- gance. Those who do not take a carriage with them may pur- chase or hire one, for any distance, or any length of time, either at Calais or Paris. For Paris only, a calash may be hired at any of the hotels for about 100 francs. POST-RELAYS I3V SWITZERLAND. IN addition to the posting-establishments previously exist- ing in Switzerland, post-relays are now (1840) orga- nized and in full operation in the cantons of Geneva, Vaud, Friburg, Berne and Neufchalel, and they will speedily be established throughout all Switzerland, which will no doubt be a great inducement for travellers pro- ceeding to Italy to pass through that country. Population OF THE DIFFERENT STATES OF ITALY, From recent authorities. inhabitants. The kingdom of Lombardy and Venice 4,279,000 Sardinian States, including the island of Sardinia. 4,270,000 Dutchy of Parma 430,000 Modena 380,000 Lucca 15,000 Tuscany 1,500,000 Republic of Saint-Marino 7,000 Kingdom of the Two Sicilies 7,500,000 Roman States 2,400,000 PRINCIPAL CITIES OF ITALY, According to Maltebrun. inhabitants. Milan 150,000 Venice 110,000 Turin 117,000 Nice 30,000 Genoa 100,000 Parma 30,000 Modena 28,000 Lucca 22,000 Florence 78,000 Pisa 20,000 Sienna 18,000 Bologna. 71,000 Ferrara 24,000 Ancona 30,000 Perugia 30,000 Rome 159,000 Naples 364,000 ROAD-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS I T A L Y. CHAPTER I. The post-relays and number of leagues from Geneva to Milan The total ex- pense of posting from Geneva to Milan The hotels recommended at Geneva and on the route to Milan A description of the route from Geneva over the Simplun I.) Milan Milan and the names of objects there Hotels at Milan. Route from Geneva to Milan. FROM Geneva, which is fully described in our Road-Book for Switzerland, it is 51 3 / 4 posts, or 79 leagues to Milan, by Douvaines, Thonon, the Simplon, etc. By Nyon and 2 ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO MILAN. Lausanne it is two leagues more. The shortest route is here given, by Posts. League*. Douvaines 21/2 Thonon 2 61/2 Bains d'Amphion 1 1/4 Evian 11/2 1/2 Meillerie 2 St. Gingolph. (See description of hotels, ft 2) 2 1/2 1 1/2 Boveret 3/4 Vionnaz 21/4 13/4 Muraz 13/4 Monlhey 5/4 St. Maurice (d, K 3) 2 1/4 1 3/4 Chapelle 3/4 Cascade de Pissevache 1 1/2 Vernay 1/4 Martigny (d, K4) 21/4 1/4 Charaz 3/4 Sasson 1 1/2 Riddes 21/4 3/4 St. Pierre 1/4 Ardon 3/4 Vctroz 1/2 Sion M, IS 5) 2 1/4 1 1/4 St. Leonard 11/4 Sierre 21/4 11/2 Souste. . . . 13/4 Tourtemagne (d, N 6) 2 1/4 3/4 Viepe. 21/4 3 Brigue 11/2 13/4 Persa! 2 1/2 31/2 Col du Simplon 21/2 Simplon (d, N"7) 31/2 13/4 Gondo 21/4 Isello (passports) 21/4 1 Crevoia 31/2 Domo d'Ossola .(<[, ^" 8) 2 1/4 3/4 EXPENSE OF POSTING. Po.ti. League.. Villa 11/3 Pallanieno 1 Vogogna 2 11/2 Ornavasso 21/2 Fariolo. . (See description of hotels, N 9) 3 31/2 Baveno (<1, NO 10) 2 1/4 Arena (<1, N 11) 2 1/2 2 1/2 Dormeletto 1 SestoCalende (d, NO 12) 1 13/4 Soma 1 1/4 Gallarate 2 3 I.egnano 1 1/4 Rho 11/2 2 Milan 11/4 21/4 Total. . . 51 3/4 79 Sec a'so ilescriplion of hotels at Varese, N 13. d tl at Como, I\14. Expense of posting. Ta lotal expense of posting from Geneva to Milan with one pair of horses, is From Geneva (o [sola (by Ihe Swiss tariff). . . fr. 108 75 Fees to postilions 63 75 From Isola to Arona (Sardinian tariff). ... 29 25 Fees to postilions 17 06 From Arona to Milan (Lombardo-Venelian tariff). 31 75 Fees lo postilions 17 25 d to ostlers 7 50 Total. . fr. 275 31 4 ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO MILAN. Hotels on this route. HOTELS AT GENEVA. 1 . HOTEL DBS BERGUES, A splendid and well-conducted establishment, beautifully situaled and commanding fine views. HOTEL DE LA BALANCE, A quiet, clean and very comfortable house, overlooking the Rhone, kept by a worthy man whose charges are moderate; excellent dinners here. ECU DE GENEVE, SAID to be much fallen off this year, the table not being well provided and a degree of stinginess prevailing throughout the establishment. HOTEL AT ST. GINGOLPH. 2. HOTEL DE LA POSTE, BEAUTIFULLY situated, clean, comfortable and reasonable. HOTEL AT ST. MAURICE. 8. L'UNION, COMFORTABLE and not dear. HOTELS AT MARTIGNY. -4. CYGNE and HOTEL DE LA TOUR, BOTH clean and comfortable. HOTELS. 3 HOTEL AT SIGN. 5. LA CROIX BLANCHE; TOLERABLE ; belter to stop here than at the Lion d'Or, where the charges are extravagantly dear and the people extortionate. HOTEL AT TOURTEMAGNE. 6. uo>- D'OR or POSTE, A very good inn. Travellers by sleeping here, have no occasion to lose lime by going through Brigue, which is half a league out of Ihe way, and where the innkeepers understand each other and charge extravagantly dear for very poor fare and accommodations. HOTEL ON THE SIMPLON. 7. THE POSTE ; ANYTHING but clean, and very dear. HOTELS AT DOMO D'OSSOLA. 8. HOTEL-DE-V1LLE OF POSTE ; Leopold Casnedi; TOLERABLY good ; the apartments are large and well fur- nished, and there are stabling and lock-up-coach-houses. The bureau of the diligence is here, and the proprietor lels carriages for excursions, and for Milan. HOTEL D'ESPAGKE, Jacques Nkcolazzi, HAS lately been repaired, and the proprietor stated lhat I. (5 ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO MILAN. he had refurnished several of the apartments, and that he kept an excellent larder and wines of superior quality. There is good stabling, and horses and carriages may be hired at a moderate charge for any journey. HOTEL AT FARIOLO. 9. HOTEL DU LION D'OR, G. D. Campazzi; Is in the village just before the traveller arrives upon the borders of the lake Maggiore. Mrs. Starke recom- mends it as a good inn. The proprietor assured the author that he had some good apartments, and that he was repairing his house for the ensuing season ; he has a horse and char to be let, and boats can be had for excur- sions on the lake. Passengers may be conveyed to the steamer, which calls off here, and there are stables and standing for carriages. HOTEL AT BAVENO. 10. HOTEL DE LA POSTE, Is only separated from the lake Maggiore by the road which runs between it and the water. The hotel con- tains numerous well furnished, clean, and very com- fortable apartments; there is an excellent cook in the house, and it is altogether highly spoken of by those who have lodged in it. From most of the windows some very splendid views of the lake are obtained. The beautiful situation of the hotel has induced many Eng- lish families to lake up their residence there for va- rious periods; and they express themselves satisfied with HOTELS. 7 the civility and attention of the proprietor, who will procure boats for a visit to the Borromean Islands. It takes half an hour to row to the Isola Bella; a boat with two men cosls five francs for the first two hours ; if kept longer, half a franc each man per hour is charged. The steam-boat for Seslo Calende passes the islands every morning at nine o'clock. The view from Monte Monterone, which rises behind the village, is considered as one of the finest views of the Alps. It is said that the slopes of Monte Monterone are infested with snakes. The lovers of fine scenery cannot bo otherwise than gratified by a residence at Baveno, where they can make arrangements at the hotel for board and lodging at a reasonable charge per day, week or month. There are good stabling and lock-up-coach-houses at Ihe hotel. HOTEL AT ARONA. GRAXD HOTEL DE LA POSTE, Giov. Steffanino, via di S. Carlo, Is a clean, comfortable and well conducted house, with a good cuisine; the apartments are well and conve- niently furnished, and baths may be had. The pro- prietor, who is also postmaster, does what he can to make his house comfortable. The views over the lake from many of the windows arc really magnificent. The hotel contains every convenience for the accommoda- tion of travellers at reasonable charges. ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO MILAN. HOTEL ROYAL, Carlo Boniforti, Is well situated, just out of the town towards Sesto; the views from the hotel over the Jake are uninter- rupted and really very fine. The apartments are well and comfortably furnished, and the proprietor assured me he kept an excellent cook and that his charges arc extremely moderate. The steam-packet to and from Seslo Calemle passes close to the house, and boats are always ready to convey passengers to and from her; carriages may be had for excursions, and there are safe coach-houses and good stabling. HOTELS AT SESTO CALENDE. THE POSTHOUSE, where the postboys will if possible take travellers, is a very dear and dirty inn. Travellers should insist upon being taken to the 12. SERPENT HOTEL, ON the right hand corner as you land from the fer- ryboat. The landlord of this house assured the author that he would do all he could to make travellers com- fortable, that he had carriages and horses to let for excursions or journeys, and he could procure boats for the lake, or posthorses immediately. His charges ap- peared very moderate. There are good stabling and coach-houses. The direct road from Sesto Calende to Milan is through tiallarate, Rho, etc. A pleasant excursion may however lie made to Coino by Varesc, a clean and handsome town, i ontaining two good inns. HOTELS. 9 HOTELS AT VARESE. HOTEL DE L'ETOILE, Cesare Ronchi, postmaster, CONTAINS good and well furnished apartments for large or small parties. The service of the table is very good, everything being set up on white porcelain. Signer RojiCHi assured the author that he had a stock of fine old foreign wines, capital Champaign, Bordeaux, etc.; that he kept carriages for journeys or for the beautiful promenades with which the environs of the town abound. Mount Lebanon is visited from Varese, and there are numerous very handsome villas and beautiful gardens to be seen in the neighbourhood. Posthorscs are kept and there are good stabling and lock-up-coach-houses. The charges are reasonable. GR.OiD HOTEL DE L'ANGE, Giovanni Ronchi, Is a large, clean and very comfortable house, con- taining numerous sets of apartments, well and hand- somely furnished. The dinners and other meals are very good and served in a superior style. Excellent Champaign, claret and other foreign wines may be had here. Also carriages and good horses for journeys or excursions. The waiter speaks English, and the pro- prietor knows the neighbourhood well ; he will point out the most interesting promenades, the English garden, and other places worth visiting. The hotel is near the Postoffice and bureau of the diligence. There are extensive stabling and lock-up-coach-houses. The charges are moderate. 10 HOTELS FROM GENEVA TO MILAN. HOTELS AT COMO. 14. ANGEL HOTEL, HAS hitherto been most frequented by travellers solely on account of its situation upon the port of the lake; it never was a good inn and last year (1838), travellers complained bitterly of the extravagant charges, and the insolence of the landlord when expostulated with. CROWN HOTEL, ALSO belongs to the same person in connexion with his brother, and the same system is carried on there; many families who left the Angel and went to Ihe Crown were sadly disappointed at finding themselves still in the same hands and subject to the same impositions and insolence. Many first-rate and highly respectable families have lately patronised and express themselves much satisfied with the accommodations, charges, and attention, at the GRAND HOTEL DEL MONTE DI BRIANZA , The brothers Carughi^ in the square of Porto Torre. IT is a grand establishment and contains large and con- venient apartments, very handsomely furnished, and so connected that large or small families will find them- selves very comfortably situated. There are also very neat chambers for single persons; the service of the table is conducted with great propriety, the dinners are very good, and the landlord, who appeared extremely anxious to give satisfaction, stated that he had excellent wines of every description; good carriages and horses for excursions or journeys of any length. The post- relay, and the bureau of the Imperial and Royal dili- FROM GENEVA TO THE S1MPLON. 11 genccs are at this hotel, which is placed in an open and airy situation, commanding some fine views of the coun- try and within three minutes' ride, or six or eight mi- nutes' walk of the port and station of the steam-packet. This is uiiclotibledly Ihc best house in Como, and I should recom- mend travellers to try it. There are large stahles and extensive and safe standing for carriages ; the charges are extremely moderate, and 1 have no douht that if patronised l>y the English, it will hecome a very superior hotel ; the porters carry the travellers' luggage to the steam- packet fi ce of charge, and upon landing there are always men in atten- dance that will carry the effects of the passengers and show them the way to the hotel. (Author] THE STEAM-PACKET LEAVES Como every morning at 8 o'clock, calling off the principal places on ils way to and returning from Domasso. The voyage is most delightful ; the shores of the lake are literally speckled with pretty -looking vil- lages, and splendid while villas, the summer resort of the nobility and rich citizens of Milan; amongst the most conspicuous are the villa d'Estc (so named by Queen CAROUSE who, when princess of Wales, resided here some time); the villa Passalaqua with ils terraced gardens; and the villa Odescalchi, the largest on the lake. The fare to Domasso is 5 francs 15 sous, the return to Como the same. from Geneva to the Simploii. THE shortest road to the Simplon from Geneva is the great military route planned by Napoleon, passing through (lologny. The lake of Geneva, the Pays de Yaud, and 14 ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO MILAN (he plains of Savoy form a most beautiful landscape, on the road to Thonon, which continues to wind through a rich and beautiful country, abounding with corn and vineyards; and the bold and varied outline of the Alps gives peculiar grandeur to the scene. Thonon, the an- cient capital of the dutchy of Chablais, is prettily situated; the siteof its castle merits notice. The convent of llipaille is at a short distance from the town. From hence the road proceeds to Evian, which is cele- brated for its mineral waters. Crossing the river Dranse on a narrow bridge of Roman construction, and after passing in view of an old castle surrounded by picturesque woods, the traveller approaches the brink of the lake shaded by walnut-lrees; immediately opposite the towns of Morges and Lausanne, which are within sight. Fol- lowing the shores of the lake, the road reaches the rocks of Meillerie, cut through masses of stone two hundred feet high, which tower above the traveller on one side, and on the other rise two walls, the first serving as a parapet, the second strengthening the foundation of the road, which prevents it from being injured by the lake. Near St. Gingolph, which is prettily situated, a gorge in the mountains discovers the source of the Amphion ; Vevey is seen on the opposite shore. St. Gingolph be- longs to the Valais. Immediately beyond are some very pretty streamlets, and as they trickle down the rocks they form themselves into crystallizations. Between the next post ( Vionnaz) and St. Maurice there is a curious wooden bridge, thrown over a rapid torrent; soon after crossing which the Rhone appears in view, overhung by rocks shaded by rich foliage; and in the foreground rises a splendid stone-bridge, constructed by the Romans, two BY THE SIMPLON. 1", hundred feet in length. At one end of the bridge is a tower, now used as a custom-house, at the other end a castle; the road to St. Maurice has been cut through part of it and passes over a drawbridge. The town of St. Maurice is beautifully situated at the base of a long line of rocks, many of which are formed into habitations. The commencement of the road from St. Maurice to Marligny presents nothing striking except the two Alps which are several thousand feel above the level of the Rhone; the Dent-du-Midi and the Dent-de-Morcles. At a short distance are Mont Velan and Mont P'alsorey, which form a part of ihe groupe of the Great St. Ber- nard, more than ten thousand feet above the level ol' the sea. Continuing through this Alpine solitude, Ihe road passes the bottom of a fine cascade, called the Pisse- rache, formed by the river Sallenche, falling from a height, though not more than a hundred feet perpendi- cular. Not far from this cascade is the Pont du Trient, where a rivulet issues from a singular chasm between two rocks, the sides of which, thus divided by the stream, are perpendicular and more than eleven hundred feet high. The once well built and flourishing town of Marligny is situated al the entrance of the great valley of the Rhone, where the roads from France, Italy and Chamouni meet; it was nearly destroyed in the year 1818 by a dreadful and sudden inundation of the Dranse ; subscriptions however from the benevolent inhabitants of the neighbouring countries, have enabled Ihe people to repair some of the ravages caused by the inundation ; there is an old castle, separated from the town by the Dranse, which gives it a picluresque appearance. 2 14 ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO MILAN. The first part of the road, between Marligny and Sion, is bordered by sterile rocks and mountains, but the scene soon changes as the traveller approaches towards Sion; the road winds through rich pasturages, vineyards and villages with a distant view of the Alps blanched with eternal snow. Sion, the capital of the Haut-Valais, is partly built on the right bank of the Rhone and partly on the river Sitten; it is a very old Swiss bishopric, containing several convents, six churches, an hospital and Holel-de-Ville; it stands on the declivity of three hills, each crowned by a castle; but the most remarkable objects are the castles of Sion and Montorges situated on two rocks, difficult to access. Immediately above this very picturesque and ancient town there is a very singular hermitage, comprising a church and cloister on the opposite side, with several cells all hewn out of a solid rock. Beyond Sierre the road crosses the Rhone ( the German language is spoken here and in- deed throughout the Haut-Valais ), and traverses the forest of Finges and thence proceeds to Tourtemagne. A splendid view- of the whole chain of Alps connecting the Simplon with the Saint Gothard is displayed on the near approach to Tourlemagnc. Within ten minutes' walk at the back of the inn at Tourtemagne, is ;i beautiful waterfall, not so magnificent as the Pisse- vache, but more beautiful in point of situation. The road proceeds from Tourtemagne to Viege, which stands on the banks of the river Yisp. Thence it is usual for travellers to go to Brigue, a beautifully situated town opposite to the base of the Simplon ; to the left of Brigue is the pretty village of Nalers, watered by the Rhone, which descends from the summits of the Fourcho. PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON. 15 The best time of the year for passing the Simplon (if travellers wish to avoid (he dreadful and sudden snow- storms that so frequently occur after the month of October), is from June till (he latter end of October, and in order to appropriate the whole day to the pas- sage, it is belter to sleep at Brigue, and to set out at the dawn next morning. In 1801 the passage of the Simplon was planned by Napoleon; it was finished in 1805 at the joint expense of France and Italy. On the side of Switzerland the work was conducted by- French engineers; the Italian side by an Italian engi- neer, the Cavaliere Giovanni Fabbroni. The breadth of the road is twenty-five feet, there are fifty different bridges thrown across the rocks and a number of grot- toes hewn out of solid masses of granite. Passage of the Simploii. FROM Brigue (after leaving to the right one of the first works of this wonderful passage of the Alps ( a beautiful and lofty bridge, consisting of one arch), the road gradually commences the ascent, passing on the right a chapel with several small oratories leading to it amidst the boldest and most magnificent scenery it is possible for imagination to conceive. At the differ- ent windings of the road, the splendid valley of the Rhone bursts upon the view, encircled by snow-crowned Alps, with the gigantic Mont-Blanc towering above them all. After passing five different places of Refuge (which are small inns, built on purpose to afford shelter to the traveller, carriages, or cattle, in case of being overtaken by a sudden snow-storm ), many galleries 1(5 ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO MILAN. and bridges, some of which are built over frightful precipices, the traveller continues ascending for six hours and reaches the sixth Refuge, called the Barrier, which is the summit of the Simplon. A little below this, on the left, stands the new Hospice, erected by order of the emperor Napoleon, a handsome and sub- stantial building, now inhabited by monks of the same order as those at the convent upon the Great St. Ber- nard. Here travellers are received by the prior, the amiable Father Barras, whose kindness and civility is no doubt remembered by many who may have visited the Great St. Bernard within the last twenty -seven years. In stormy weather and winter, travellers are lodged and entertained the same as at St. Bernard; in fine weather the monks are happy to show the interior of the Hospice, which contains several neat best bed- rooms, a drawing-room, provided with a piano-forte, a chapel and refectory with thirty-five beds for travel- lers of the common sort. Travellers should not he tempted hy the representations of hotel- keepers, post-masters, and other interested persons, to leave or enter Italy by this route, sooner in spring than June, nor later in autumn than October. At the latter end of November (1838) the author, his wife and two servants narrowly escaped being lost, by the upsetting of their carriage (notwithstanding it was on Iraineaux) at the edge of a frightful precipice, in one of ihose sudden and awful snow-storms so frequent in the passage of those Alps. The upsetting of the carriage was occasioned by the snow, which had here been allowed to accumulate to the height of seven or eight feet above the level of the road for want of a sufficient number of cantonniers to keep it clear. (Author.} From the Hospice the descent commences to the village of Simplon, which is three thousand two hundred and six- teen feet above the level of the Mediterranean sea. Tra- PASSAGE OF THE S1MPLON. 17 vellcrs do not suffer much from cold even on these heights during stormy and bad weather, this wonderful passage of the Alps being so well sheltered. The descent still continues from the village of Simplon toDomod'Os- sola, amidst wild and barren rocks, from which hang immense icicles. A short distance from the village of Simplon, these gigantic rocks gradually approach each other, scarcely leaving space for the road. After crossing the river several times by means of handsome bridges, the road continues through a grotto cut out of immense rocks of granite. A little beyond the flrst grolto is a spendid cascade, after passing which the road enters another most stupendous grotto ; the length of this one the author was informed, was one hundred and eighty-seven paces; it was lofty in proportion. Upon leaving this grolto, a sudden turn in the road presents another magnificent cas- cade ; the best lime to see them to advantage is in Ihe spring, when Ihe snow begins lo melt from Ihe heights above ; at other seasons there is litlle or no water. From hence Ihe traveller proceeds till he reaches the miserable village of Gondo, 1 a little below which there is a chapel marking the confines of Italy. At Isella, another wretched village and a short distance farther, there is the Picdmontese frontier custom-house; the road then enters 1 The ascent from tins to the village of Simplon occupies seven hours and a half, and it takes thirteen hours to post from Domo d'Ossola to Milan. The bridge over the Tosa, five miles and a half below Domo d'Ossola, still remains in the slate it was left by (he destructive tempest of 1834, which not only destroyed the bridge, but the materials of which it was built disappeared, although some of Ihe blocks of stone were of immense size. ' .lut/ior.) 2. 18 ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO MILAN. the awful and appalling Gorge of Isella, so rendered by the numerous cascades which from the summits of the mountains are conveyed by means of wells into the bed of the Vedro, which, when swollen, rushes furiously through enormous fragments of rocks ; this gorge extends to Dive- dro ; from hence the road continues to descend into the wild and narrow glen of Val Vedro; crossing the torrent twice by bridges and reaching the last grotto, it proceeds to Crcvola. The scene now changes : as the traveller ap- proaches Domo d'Ossola, the gigantic rocks and mountains gradually recede, in place of which the rich and highly cultivated plains of Italy present themselves to view, forming a striking contrast to the magnificent but terrific scenes encountered in the Simplon. Upon entering Domo d'Ossola, the traveller cannot have a doubt of his having arrived in Italy ; lazy-looking lazza- roni loitering about the streets in red nightcaps, and bare sunburnt legs, shops teeming with macaroni and sausa- ges, the pack-saddled mule, priests parading the streets and females wearing the mantilla, the colonnades with the parly-coloured awnings of the houses, and the tinkling of the bells of the neighbouring convents, fill up the picture of an Italian town. After leaving Domo d'Ossola it is usual for travellers to pursue the great military road to Baveno on the Lago Maggiore where they embark in order to visit the Borro- mean Islands, Isola Bella, Isola Madre and Isola de 1 Pesca- lori, and then embark again at Isola Bella to proceed to Sesto Calendc ; boats are always in waiting to convey those who wish to visit these islands and the lake; the price of a boat for the former expedition, is four livres per rower. The Lago Maggiore is said to be fifty-six Italian miles in PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON. 10 length and six in breadth; the scenery is most lovely. If travellers prefer continuing along the shores of the lake instead of embarking at Baveno for the Borromean Islands, they will find this ride exceedingly beautiful, passing through the pretty village of Belgirale situated close on the edge of the lake, adorned wilh handsome villas, having terraces and gardens in front. Some little distance beyond this the Colossal statue of San Carlo Bor- romeo appears on the hill, just above the road overlooking Arona, the birthplace of the saint ; it is about half an hour's walk from the town to visit this statue. The church of Santa Maria at Arona merits notice. The view of the peaked snowy ridge of Mount Rosa, from the lower part of the Lago Maggiore, is most splendid. Seslo Ca- lende, the frontier-town of Lombardy, is beautifully situated ; here travellers who embark for the islands rejoin their carriages, which go by land round by Belgirate and Arona, crossing the Ticino in a pont-tolant to Sesto Calende. At Sesto Calende the passports and luggage are strictly examined ; .should there be any irregularity in the former, the traveller is not allowed to proceed, but is either detained or sent back until the error is corrected ; should prohibited books or any contraband article be found amongst the luggage, it will also cause delay, and other an- noyances that are as well avoided. The traveller by land should also keep in mind that after sunset the ponl-volant ceases to cross the river, and should he arrive too late he must inevitably return to Arona to sleep, or be content with very -wretched accommodation at a village inn two miles from the place of embarkation. In (his dilemma I should say : of the two evils choose (he least, go back to Arona, where there are two good hotels. The author was once put to the shift here and went to the village where the inn was miserable, and the bill in the morning was extravagantly dear. From Sesto Calende there is a good but hilly carriage-road to Corno, which may be reached in one day through the handsome town 20 HOTELS AT MILAN. of Varese, the very beautiful environs of which are studded with the handsome villas of (he opulent Milanese. At Varese there are two good inns, a description of which will he found in the list of hotels on this route (page 9). At Como the traveller will find the inn described in the list much more comfortable and considerably less expensive than the Angel, where the only attraction is its being near the lake; in other respects it is not to be recommended ; in 1838 it was dirty, extra- vagantly dear, and the landlord insolent. (Author.) Persons who prefer water-carriage may go from hence to Milan in the boats of the Lago Maggiore. The great military route proceeds from hence through a beautiful country to Somma, remarkable for an ancient castle of the Visconti, and a cypress-tree of great age, one of the lar- gest ever known ; near this was fought the great battle between Scipio and Hannibal. Hence the road passes Ihrough Gallarate and Cassina to Rho. Between Rho and Milan Ihe country is adorned with mulberry and acacia- trees which are cultivated here in great luxuriance. The triumphal arch (Arco delta Pace) is a great ornament on the approach to Milan. The triumphal arch was commenced by Napoleon, and is only just finished; the original design was magnificent ; it is now very elegant, but much more plain than was intended. The name has been changed from the Arco delSempione to the Arco delta Pace. (Author.) Hotels at Milan. ALBERGO REALE, (the Royal Hotel) A very large establishment, said to belong to a company, used to be much frequented by English families of dis- tinction, but now (1839) being deserted in consequence HOTELS AT MILAN. 21 of the extravagant charges and insolent conduct of the man who conducts it. If it is true that this hotel is the property of a company, the sooner they remove the person that is at the head of it, (he heller. I witnessed his impertinence in a case where it certainly was uncalled for. 'Author.) HOTEL REICHHA.N, (Reichman'a Hotel) -1203, Corso delta Porta Romana. THIS hotel is situated in a quiet and fine street, in ihe centre of the town, near the Cathedral, theatres, and public offices. It presents a noble and very extensive front, a handsome entrance, and an extensive court-yard, surrounded by a colonnade, so that the large and excel- lent stabling, coach-houses and offices are attained under cover ; on the farther side, looking into a very neat gar- den, is the salle a manger, a splendid and comfortable room in which during the season from 1150 to 200 per- sons frequently dine. The apartments, consisting of suites conveniently ar- ranged for large or small families, and single persons, are exceedingly comfortable, being furnished with ele- gance in the English style, carpeted throughout, and having either French chimneys or stoves. The beds are excellent, most of them being furnished with the French patent mattresses ; the private saloons are par- ticularly convenient for the bed-chambers, and are fur- nished with a taste and elegance only to be met with in hotels of this class in Paris and London. The kitchen department is conducted with every regard to the tastes of the different inmates; the cooking is excellent, and 22 HOTELS AT MILAN. the service of the fable d'hote is conducted with great propriety ; a dinner consisting of everything in season is served with much taste at four o'clock daily; private dinners are served at any hour, and those who prefer dining in their own apartments have an opportunity of naming the dishes they desire provided. There are hand- some marble-baths contiguous to many of the chambers, so that baths can be had at a few minules' notice. Carriages and horses of very superior and various de- scriptions, are kept at the hotel for promenades or jour- neys, and the traveller upon application to the proprietors (one of whom speaks English), will be furnished with a useful poste-roule for all the principal roads of llaly. This hotel has long been the resort of many English families of dis- tinction, and is distinguished for the attention of the proprietors (who are Swiss), i(s internal comforts, and the uniform and moderate charges. In ihe garden of the hotel there is a very pleasant room, lately fitted up as a reading or smoking-room. Messrs. REICHMAJJN are very attentive to their husiness and do all they can to give satisfaction. I can highly recommend their establishment. (Author.) HOTEL HELVETIQUE DE LA GALER1E, Jacques Coatz, Is situated in the most fashionable and gay part of ihe Corso de' Servi leading in a straight line from the Cathe- dral, and at a convenient distance from the Great The- atre della Scala and other theatres, the principal pro- menades, etc. etc. The present landlord formerly kept the Hotel de Ville, and for len years gave great satisfaction to the numerous persons who patronised his establishment, which he quitted in 1852. In 18-33 he took to his present new and HOTELS AT MILAN. 23 splendid hotel, which is immediately over the very hand- some gallery with which Messrs, de Chrisloffers have embellished the city of Milan. The gallery is after the design and appropriated to the same purposes as Uic Burlington arcade in London ; the shops are however larger and more magnificent. The hotel is upon a large scale and contains numerous suites of very handsome apartments, handsomely furnished and fitted up in a very comfortable and superior manner. The apartments are so arranged as to be convenient for large or small families, having saloons and any number of bed-rooms close to them ; there are also a great many very comfortable bed-rooms for single gentlemen. The vastness of the premises enables the landlord to offer his apartments at various prices and upon such reasonable terms that he trusts all comers will be suited ; there is a table d'hote at five o'clock daily; for the inmates of the hotel private dinners are served at any hour they may be desired, by an excellent French cook. Carriages for town or country may be had in the hotel, where there are good stabling and lock-up-coach-houses. This is a vast establishment and conducted in a highly respectable manner by M. Conz and his worthy wife, -both of whom are ex- tremely obliging and do all tiiey can to make their inmates comfortable. The hotel is frequented by highly respectable English and other families; the arcade or galerie forms an agreeable lounge at all limes, and from its length and being covered in with a skylight it is an in- teresting place for a walk in bad weather. There is a Cafe and read- ing-room where newspapers in several languages may be sern, at the end of the galerie. Apartments may be hired in the hotel after the Hngli>h manner. (Author.) 24 HOTELS AT MILAN. HOTEL DE LA GRANDE-BRETAGNE. Luigi Scazzosi, HAS long been known to English travellers in Italy, hav- ing been much recommended by Mrs. Starke. It is still a good inn and contains many comfortable and well furnished apartments. The dinners are very good here, the house is however not so comfortable as it used to be during the time of the landlady. Messrs. SCAZZOSI and the servants, with the exception of the clerk or head- waiter, are careless and impertinent; in 1858, the ostler, who also acts as porter, was a most impudent fellow. I believe the proprietor of this hotel to he a worthy man ; he is spoken of as such by many English who have frequented his house : he ought to see that his servants do their duty as it ought to be done, or let liis house, which he can afford (o do, as it is said he is very rich. Is another 'of the inns recommended by Mrs. Starke; it has however sadly fallen off, and is seldom now fre- quented by English travellers. HOTEL DE LA BELLE VENISE, The widow Alemani and Alex. Ghiotti, Is a convenient hotel situated near the Cathedral and the Theatre della Scala and other theatres. This house con- tains many very comfortable apartments for families and single gentlemen, and has a good restaurant attached lo it, in which dinners are served in the Italian, French and English style. There is a cellar of good foreign and na- HOTELS AT MILAN. 25- tive wines ; and the charges are altogether upon a mode- rate scale. HOTEL DE LANCRE, Antonio Mussida, 971, rue de la Cathedrale, WITH an entrance from the rue de I'jJgneau, close to and having a fine view of the Duomo. This is a clean and well situated hotel, not upon so large a scale as some of the others, but well and comfortably furnished, and having every convenience, a good restaurant, good foreign and native wines, and neat and lively apartments looking into the Grand'Rue. Intelligent domestiques de place, carriages for town or country and standing for carriages, the whole at moderate and reasonable charges. The hotel is near the theatres and public offices. GRAND HOTEL DE LA REUSE D AXGLETERRE, (the Queen of England's Hotel) Giuseppe Casnedi, 4767, contrada Largo al Civico, CONTAINS comfortable and well furnished apartments for families and gentremcn; a good larder and cook ; and large and safe coach-houses. Carriages may be had for the town or country, and the hotel is near the Cathedral, the Postoffice, the bureaus of the diligences, and not far from the theatres. Poslhorses are obtained immediately, and there are good standing for carnages and capital stables. A>CIE>' HOTEL DU PUITS, Joseph Philibert, Is conveniently situated in the centre of the town, near 26 MILAN. the Cathedral, the Postoffice and the bureaus of the dili- gences, and within five minutes' walk of the theatres. The hotel contains private sitting-rooms with bed-rooms for small families and single gentlemen ; salle a manger, in which dinners are served a la carte or per head at all hours. Carriages for journeys or the town can always be had, and posthorses at a few minutes' notice. Return- carriages are daily to be had at the hotel, where there are extensive stabling and lock-up-coach-houses. HOTEL LE MARIOXO CONTAINS many well furnished and comfortable apart- ments for families and single gentlemen, with a good restaurant attached to it, from which dinners are served a la carte or per head. The hotel is conveniently situated near the Cathedral, the theatres, the Postoffice, arid the bureaus of the diligences. Carriages may be had here for town or country, and pnst-horses can be obtained at a few minutes' notice. There arc lock-up-coach-houses and good stabling. Milan HAS been much improved of late years, and may now be called a handsome town ; it has the appearance of being a gay and flourishing city, from the number of elegant equipages, well dressed people, and handsome and well stocked shops lhat are seen in every principal street. The MILAN. 27 population in 1838 amounted to upwards of 140,000. The Cathedral or Duomo is the largest church in Italy, except St. Peter's at Rome. It is a splendid building, in the Italian Gothic style, of white marble, and is the great attraction of strangers, who to form a just idea of the ex- terior decorations, should ascend the staircase consisting of 468 steps and reaching to its roofs, \vhere alone the fret-work, carving and sculpture can be seen to advan- tage ; no traveller should think of leaving Italy without seeing this immense and venerable pile. There are how- ever many other objects worth seeing in Milan : The Church of St. 4lessand.ro contains some good frescoes in its cupola, and the high altar is very hand- some. Opposite the Church of S. Lorenzo there is a good spe- cimen of ancient Roman architecture (a portico), support- ed by sixteen very fine fluted columns of the Corinthian order. The Brera College, now the palace of Arts and Sciences, contains a fine collection of pictures, casts of statues of an- tiquity, an Observatory, a Library, and a Botanical Garden. The Ambrosian Library contains fifty thousand print- ed volumes and manuscripts and many fine paintings of much value. Leonardo da Vinci's famous fresco of the Last Supper, is still to be seen in the refectory of the suppressed convent of Maria delle Grazie, and although it has suffered a great deal from time and neglect, it is highly interesting as being the masterpiece of this cele- brated painter. The Amphitheatre, the Gate of Marengo, and the Teatro della Scala, merit notice. 28 MILAN. The principal promenades are the Corso, the Espla- nade, the ramparts, and the public gardens on the left of the Corso. The environs of Milan are flat, but exceedingly pretty and embellished with numerous handsome villas, among which is that presented by the city to the emperor Na- poleon. CHAPTER II. Th principal routes, number of posts and post-relayi, leading from Milan Total expense of posting from Milan to Florence The hotels recommended on the route to Florence, by Piacenia, Parma, Bologna, etc.; description of the route Hotels and boarding-houses at Florence ; climate Florence ; English church ; bankers, physicians, surgeont, and respectable tradesmen to deal with. Principal routes from Milan. From MILAN to PENICE. From MILAN to FLORENCE. From Milan to Cascina do' Pomi, posts 1 1/2 Cassano, 1 Caravaggio, 1 Antignate, . 1 Chiari, 1 Ospedaletto, . 1 Brescia, 1 Ponle S. Marco, 1 1/2 Desceiirano, 1 Castel Nuovo, 1 1/2 Verona, 1 1/2 Caldiero, Montebello, 1/2 Vicenza, . 1/4 Arlesega, . 1/4 Padua, Dolo, 1/2 Fusina, 1/2 Venice by water, 1 1/2 Italian posts. 23 1/2 From Milan to Melegnano, Lodi, Casal Pusterlengo, Piacenza, Fiorenzuola, Borgo S. Donino, Castel Guelfo, Parma, St. Ilario, Reggio, Rubiera, Modena, Samoggia, Bologna, Pianoro, Lojano, Filijare, Cavigliaju, Montecarelli, Cafaggiolo, posts 1 n 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1/4 1/2 1/4 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 50 PRINCIPAL ROUT To Fontebuona, posls t Florence, 1 ES FROM MILAN. To Mais (here all the prin- cipal routes to Germa- ny commence). post 1 Italian posts. 27 1/2 From MILAN to MODENA, by Mantua. From Milan to Melegnano, posts 1 1/2 Lo.li, 1 1/2 Casal Pusterlenjjo, 1 1/4 Pizzijjhetone, 1 Cremona, 2 Cigognolo, 1 Piadena, 1 1/4 Bozzolo, 3/4 Castelluccio, 1 1/2 Mantua, 1 S. Benedetto, 1 1/2 Novi, 1 1/2 Carpi, 1 Modena, 11/4 Posts 231/4 From MILAN to GENOA. From Milan to Binasco, posts 1 1/2 Pavia, .. 1 1/4 Casteggio, 21/2 Italian posts. 5 1/4 To Voghera, posts 1 1/4 Tortona, 21/2 Novi, 2 1/2 Arquata, 2 Ronco, 2 1/2 Pontedecimo, 2 Genoa, 3 French posls. 15 3/4 From SWITZERLAND by the St. Gothard. From Milan to Rarlassina, posts 1 1/2 Como, 1 1/2 CapoLago, 1 1/2 Lugano, 1 Bellinzona, 2 1/2 Polegio, > 1 Giornico, 1/2 Faido, 1 Airolo, 2 1/2 Orsera, 2 Wasen, 1 Amsteg, I Altorf, 1 Italian posts. 18 New route by Monte Stelvio. From Milan to Monza, posts 1 1/4 Cazzanija, 1 Lecco, >. 1 1/2 Varenna, 1 1/4 Colico, .. 1 1/2 Morhegno, 11/2 Sondrio, 2 1/2 Tirano, 2 3/4 Balladore, 2 Bormio, 2 Sponda Lunga, 1 S. Maria, 1 Wedeln, > 1 '1'rofoi, 1 Prad. > 1 Posts 18 From MILAN to TURIN hi/ fierce Hi. From Milan (o S. Pietro dcirOlmn, post,. 1 1/i PRINCIPAL ROUTES FROM MILAN. 31 4 1/4 ToBuffalora, posts 1 Novara, 2 Italian posts. To Orfengo, posts 1 1/2 Vercelli, 1 1/2 S. Germano, 2 5/4 Cigliano, 2 1/2 Fontlizzone, 1 1/4 Cliivasso, 1 Settimo, 1 1/2 Turin, .. 1 1/2 French posts. 13 1/2 From MILAN to TVEIN by Alessandria. From Milan to Binasco, posts 1 1/2 Pavia, 1 1/4 Casteggio, .. 2 1/2 Italian posts. 5 1/4 To Voghera, posts 1 1/4 Torlona, 2 1/4 Alessandria, * 3 Fellizzano, 2 1/2 Anone, 1 1/2 Asti, . 1 1/2 Gambelta, 1 1/2 Dusino, 1 1/2 Poirioo, > 1 1/2 Truffarello, 1 1/2 Turin, 1 1/2 French posts. 19 1/2 From MIL4N to COIRE by the San Bernardino. From Milan to Barlassina, posts 1 1/2 Como, 11/2 To Capo Lago, Lugano, Bellinzona, Leggia, Mesocco, S. Bernardino, Zum Rhcin, Splugen, pobts 1 1/2 > 1 >, 2 1/2 . 1 1/2 1 1/4 1 .. 1 1/4 1 Thusis, 1 3/4 Cuera, or Coire, 1 o/4 Posts. 17 1/2 From MILAN to COIRE by the Sptugen. From Milan to Barlassina, posts 11/2 Como, 1 1/2 Ripaili Chiavenna, by water, 5 Chiavenna, 1 Campodolcino, 1 Splugen, 2 1/2 Thusis, 1 3/4 Coire, 1 3/4 Posts 16 Another without embarking. From Milan to Monza, posts 1 1/4 Cazzanijja, <> 1 Lecco, 1 1/2 Varenna, 1 1/4 Colico, 1 1/4 Novate, 1 Chiavenna (and follow like before), 1 Italian posts. 8 1/4 32 ROUTE FROM MILAN TO FLORENCE. Expense of posting. THE total expense of posting from Milan, through Pia- cenza, Parma, Bologna, etc. to Florence, is : For one pair of horses from Milan to Bologna, fr. 103 12 Fees to poslilions 56 25 Fees to ostlers. . , 3 50 Total. . . fr. 162 87 For one pair of horses from Bologna P aoli - fr - c - to Florence 90 .. 50 40 Fees to postilions 5f . . 30 24 Fees to ostlers. . .... 4 . . 2 25 Total. . . . paoli 148 fr. 82 89 From Milan to Bologna 162 87 From Bologna to Florence 82 89 fr. 245 76 It will be observed that this is the shortest road from Milan to Florence ; through Calpi it costs about 20 fr. more, and by Mantua 46 fr. more than the above calculation. (Author.) Hotels from Milan to Florence. THE hotels recommended on this route are : AT PIACENZA. HOTEL SAir MARCO; LARGE, clean, and good table. HOTELS. 33 FIORENZUOLA. LA CROIX BLANCHE, Ji'sr out of the town. Small, clean and comfortable; good table, and an attentive landlord. Coach-houses and stables. PARMA. GRAND HOTEL DE LA POSTE , Tomaso Marchesi, ( late of the Royal Hotel Modem) Via jEmilia, 101, strada S. Michele. THIS holel has been lately entirely repaired, newly em- bellished and elegantly furnished throughout. The suits of rooms which are numerous have the appearance of great comfort. The court-yard is surrounded with gal- leries which being kept extremely clean, have a light and pleasing effect. The stabling is very good and there arc extensive and safe coach-houses. The landlord of this house, who, if 1 recollect right, spoke English, assured me that he had a most excellent cook, and that his cellars were stocked with fine wines native and foreign. He appeared anxious to make his house known to English travellers as comfortable, and reasonable ; and to judge by the favourable way it is mentioned by numerous parties in his Book of arrivals, I should say the travellers will find themselves well lodged here. I can answer for its being very clean. (Author.) 34 ROUTE FROM MILAN TO FLORENCE. BOLOGNA. GRAND HOTEL SUISSK, POSTHOUSE, (formerly the Albergo Ucnle ed Imperialc, or Royal Hotel) Britn, NEWLY revived, near the Postoffice and Ihe bureaus of the diligences, is conveniently situated in the centre of the town, in an open and pleasing situation, commanding a fine view. The hotel has been recently repaired and is now furnished in a very superior manner. The proprie- tor, who is a Swiss, understands the habits of the Eng- lish, and has spared neither trouble nor expense in the fitting up of his numerous apartments in a style seldom met with in Italy. The apirtments consist of private sitting-rooms, with bed-rooms, conveniently arranged for large or small families, or single persons; a very handsome salle a manger in which there is a table d'hote at four o'clock daily; private dinners are served at any hour they may be desired. There are numerous cham- bers for servants. Good stabling and lock-up-coach- houses; carriages for the town or promenade may be had at the hotel. The proprietor will also furnish travellers with a card of the principal routes leading from Bologna. This is a very superior establishment; the table d'hdte is excel- lent, and (he hotel altogether appears to be conducted iu a liberal and highly respectable manner. I can with confidence recommend it to the notice of English travellers. An English gentleman, who had been a resilient in the hotel some time, spoke of it as being far su- perior to any establishment of a similar description, between Switzer- land and Florence; the service of the table docs the proprietor nvicli credit. (Author.) HOTELS. THE BLACK EAGLE, 55 (Grand H6tcl de 1'Aigle Noir) Sebastiano Spadoni, Is upon a smaller scale. The landlord assured the au- thor that he had comfortable and well furnished apart- ments, that he kept a well stocked larder and a good cook who sent up dinners in the Italian, French and Eng- lish style, and that those families and gentlemen who patronised his hotel expressed themselves satisfied with their accommodations and the moderation of the charges. Carriages for the town and environs or for journeys are obtained immediately, and voituriers for ail parts of Italy are generally in attendance. Routes and distances from Bologna. Route to Ay CO ^ A To Rome, posts 34 3/4 To S- INicolo, post 5 1 1/4 Rome by Furln, 3i 3/i Jmola, 1 1/4 Rome by Sicmn, 33 Facnza, 1 Naples, .. 60 1/2 Foils 1 Route to FLORENCE Cesena, 1 1/2 To Pianoro, posts 1 1/2 Savijnano, 1 I.ojano, .. 1 1/2 Rimini, 1 Filigare, . 1 Catlolica, 1 1/2 Covigliajo, 1 Pesaro, 1 Moutecarelli, 1 Fano, 1 Cafagiolo, J Ma rot la, 1 Fontebuona, 1 Sinij*aglia, 1 Firenze, or Florence, 1 Case brucciale, 1 Posts. 9 Ancona, 1 To Lastra, .. 1 Posts. 15 1/2 Imbrojiana, ROUTE FROM MILAN TO FLORENCE. ToScaia, posts 1 To Genoa, posts 38 3/4 Castel del Bosco, 1 Turin, 36 3/4 Fornacctte, 1 Geneva (Ccnis), 81 3/4 Pisa, 1 Coire, 35 3/4 Livorno, >> 2 Posts. 17 Route to VENICE To Lucca, posts 15 1/2 To Capo d'Argine, posts 1 Genoa, o 40 1/2 Malalbergo, 1 Route to MILJN. Ferrara, 1 1/2 Polcsella, 2 To Samoggia, Modena, Ruliiera posts 1 1/2 1 1/2 K 1 Rovijjo, Monsulice, 1 1 1/2 Padova, 1 1/2 Reggie, S. llario, 1 1 1/2 Do!o, Fusina, 1 1/2 1 1/2 Parma, Castel Guclfo 1 . 1 Venezia, or Venice, 1 Borfjo S. Donino, 1 Posts. 13 1/2 Fiorenzuola, 1 To Mantua, posts 10 Piacenza, .. 2 Verona, 12 Casal Puslerlengo, 2 Inspruck, 57 1/2 Lodi, . 1 1/2 Trieste, 30 1/2 Melcgnano, 1 1/4 Vienna, n 63 3/i Milan, 1 1/2 Munich, 43 1/4 Posts. 18 3/4 Paris, 144 1/-2 HOTEL AT LOJANO. SHOULD travellers leave Bologna late in the day they can be accommodated \vith beds at the HOTEL DE LA POSTE, Antonio ^(ngachi, THREE posts from Bologna, where the charges for. dinners and other meals are extremely reasonable. Extra-horses or oxen may be had here for the mountains, and there are stables and safe coach-houses. ROUTE FROM MILAN TO DOLOGNA. 37 From Milan to Hologim THE road traverses a rich and fertile country, but certain- ly not so picturesque and beautiful as many other parts of Italy. It abounds with fields of rice as well as every other kind of grain. The soil of Italy is so deep, rich and fertile, that the husbandman no sooner reaps one crop than another succeeds. The new town of Lodi is situated on an eminence near the Adda, and contains about eleven thousand five hundred inhabitants; the gales of the town arc handsome; they are always closed after dark, but are opened for a small fee to admit travellers. The church of I'lncoronata is the most remarkable ; but what makes this town interesting is Napoleon having gained one of his most memorable battles on the bridge of Lodi. Part of the ruins of the town of Lodi Vccchio may still be seen on the Adda ; it was de- stroyed by the Milanese, and the present town rebuilt by order of the emperor Barbarossa. Before reaching Pia- cenza the river Po is crossed on a pont volant. The town is pleasantly situated between the Po and the Trebia; the houses and even the palaces are chiefly built of brick. The Cathedral merits notice as it contains some good pictures. On this side ol the Po there is a custom-house, where, if travellers give a small fee, it will prevent them from being searched. The road about half-way to Fiorenzuola, crosses the torrent of Nura by a stone-bridge, and after traversing I he Larda (which is dry in summer, but when the stream is swollen by the winter rains is provided with a narrow- bridge for carriages), reaches the small town of Fioren- zuola. Hence the road proceeds to Borgo San Donino, 38 PARMA. situated on the Slironc; it contains a Cathedral, also a handsome edifice converted by the order of Napoleon into an asylum for the poor. The next town is Castle Guelfo, near which are the ruins of its fine old castle. After leaving Castle Guelfo some distance the Taro is crossed by a splendid bridge commenced by Napoleon and finished by Maria Luigia; from hence the traveller traverses a beautiful fertile valley till he reaches Parma. Tins town derived its name from the river Parma, on whose margin it was originally placed. The Cathedral is a fine Gothic structure; the altar is decorated with precious marbles, it contains some fine paintings by Correggio, also a monument to the memory of Pelrarca. The Church of San Giovanni Etangelista contains some fine frescoes also by Correggio. The Royal Academy (formerly a Royal resi- dence) has a public gallery of fine pictures, and also con- tains many interesting antiquities found at Valleia. The original Grand Theatre was built of wood and considered in point of architecture the most perfect edifice of its kind in Italy; it was so spacious that it contained from five to six thousand spectators, who could hear every syllable spoken by the performers, even if they only spoke in a whisper, as well as see everything that passed on the stage ; it is now entirely out of repair. Close to the Great Theatre is another on a smaller scale, and the present sovereign Maria Luigia has just completed a third which has a handsome facade. MODKNA. 30 '1'Jic modern town of Parma is pretty and contains som handsome shops; its walls are three or four miles in cir- cumference; its inhabitants amount to thirty thousand. The road from Parma to St. Ilario (where there is another troublesome custom-house) passes between some neat farms, crossing the Lcnza (which is at the extremity of the dutchy of Parma) by a fine bridge. The Croslolo is then crossed by another bridge before reaching Reggio. This town was the birthplace of Arioslo, the greatest of the Italian poets. One of the chapels of the Cathedral is adorned by some fine paintings, and the Church of S. Pfetro is handsome. Reggio is said lo contain fifteen thousand five hundred inhabitants. About a league from the road isCorreggio, rendered interesting by its having given birth to the great painter who bore its name: After passing through Rubiera, an old fortress, in very bad condition (where should travellers arrive after dark they will find the gates shut, and are obliged to wait till leave is obtained for having them opened), the road crosses the Secchia by a bridge which is thrown over the torrent, behind which, and before the traveller enters Modena, is a splendid column supposed to have been erected in ho- nour of Napoleon; it is crowned with an imperial eagle, but bears no inscription. Modeua. THE elegant little town of Modena is most beautifully situated amidst fertile pasturages between the rivers Sec- chia and Panaro. Its gales arc handsome and the ram- parts form a pleasant promenade round the town ; the 40 BOLOGAA. streets are wide, clean and handsome, particularly that of the strada Maestro. The Cathedral arid the Churches of S. ficenzo and St. slyostino merit notice. The Campanile is one of the most lofty towers in Italy, it is a splendid marble edifice. But the object best deserving notice in Modena is the palace and chapel of the Grand Duke ; it is a splendid building and contains some fine paintings. The hull of the palace is a noble room, the ceiling is finely painted in fresco. The chapel is also adorned with a fine picture of the Circumcision by Procaccino. This town also contains a celebrated University, a Theatre, some public baths and several collections of pic- tures. After leaving Modena the river 1'anaro is crossed by a handsome bridge, a short distance from the town, which terminates the limits of the dutchy ; from hence the road proceeds to Castel Franco, 1 the first town in the Ec- clesiastical territories, situated on the via JEmilia, passing through Samoggia, and then crossing the rivers by the bridges of Lavino and Reno, enters Bologna. The road from Milan to Bologna is excellent. Bologna Is beautifully placed at the foot of the Apennines, in a healthy, but rather cold climate; it is well built and 1 At Castel Franco the custom-house officers must he bribed to 'prevent an annoying search; it is here that the enl ranee-duty upon foreign carriages and horses, is sometimes demanded. 1 say some- times, for I was told it was not always exacted, and if properly in- quired into, it would be found an imposition of the officers, they pocketing ihc 13 or 14 francs, the amount demanded. (Author.) BOLOGNA. 41 wealthy; its population is now (1859) supposed to be about 84,000. The Cathedral is a fine edifice, it contains the last work of Lodovico Caracci, a fresco of the Pronunciation. The choir is also adorned with a fresco of Christ presenting the keys of heaven to Saint Peter. There are other churches, six in number, all of which merit the attention of the traveller, as containing good pictures by great masters. The other remarkable buildings are the Studio, a famous University, containing a Museum of Natural history, a Cabinet of Antiquities, an Anatomical Theatre, and a Li- brary well stored with books of science and ancient ma- nuscripts. The palace belonging to the University con- tains a bronze statue of Hercules. The Accademia delle belle Arli has a small collection of fine pictures. The ceiling of the hall of the palazzo Zampi'cra is finely painted by L. Caracci, and other rooms by his nephews Annibale and Agostino. The palazzo Zambeccari da S. Paolo has a large col- lection of paintings, and the palazzo Aldobrandini, the palazzo Marescalchi, the palazzo Fanara contain good pictures. The traveller should also visit the Tower of Asinelli, 527 French feet high, erected in 1109; the pro- menade of the Montagnuola, adorned with a handsome fountain and a statue of Neptune; the Great Theatre, one of the largest in Italy, and the Campo Santo, about one mile from the city. The facades of the palaces and other large buildings at Bologna are very fine ; the streets are however narrow and dirty, which gives the town a sombre appearance; a canal runs through the city, by which travellers can be conveyed to Fcrrara, where they can embark on the Po for Venice. 4. 4-1 ROUTE FROM BOLOGNA TO FLORENCE. From Bologna to Florence THE road across the Apennines is good, though mountain- ous. It usually takes to accomplish this journey from fourteen to fifteen hours with posthorses ; en voiturin, it lakes some little time longer. The ascents and descents are much more rapid than those of the Simplon. but not sufficiently so, to often require a drag-chain, even for heavy carriages; on the road there are paved gutters intersected by small wells, which receive the streams as they rush from the heights above, so that it is generally kept dry and in good repair. From Bologna to Pianoro the country is flat but beautiful. The first post from Bologna is Pianoro, and from here the ascent of the Apennines commences and continues to the confines of Tuscany. After passing the second post (Lojano), a magnificent view is sometimes ob- tained of the Mediterranean and Adriatic, with the plains extending from Bologna to Milan. Hence the road proceeds to Pictramala (the frontier custom-house of Tuscany) and about halfway between Bologna and Florence. The ascent from Lojano to Pielramala is a continuation of bold and beautiful scenery, equal but certainly not superior to that of the Alps; this part of the Apennines being situated be- tween the Adriatic and Mediterranean, is liable to sudden and bitter gusts of wind, and therefore much colder than the Alps. There is a small volcano a short distance from Pieframala, called Monte di Fo, situated on a hill and covered by rocks. As there is no road lo it, either for carriages or mules, persons who wish to visit this volcano are obliged to walk; the time for going arid returning is from an hour and a half to two hours. Jt is said that the volcano burns in wet and stormy weather. HOTELS AT FLORENCE. V, The road from Pielramala descends to Le Maschere. proceeding through a country increasing in richness and beauty amidst romantic and splendid scenery; till at length the Veil d'Arno opens to the view, in the centre of which is the beautiful city of Florence, situated amidst fertile fields, and surrounded by hills, covered with the silver olive, and luxuriant vines, which are cultivated with so much taste ia Italy, and studded with innumerable elegant villas. For several miles the approach to Florence is most lovely, the country displays a richness of cultivation perhaps unequalled any where. The cily is entered by the porta San Gallo. Travellers who leave Bologna late in the morning, or in winter when the days are short, should sleep at Pigioli, where there is a tolerable inn; they should however descend the hill to the inn on the right side, and not he templed to slop at the small house on the top of the hill on Ike Iff't, where the accommodations are had and dear ; they would also do well to reach Florence the uext day, the inn at Le Mat- e-here not heing well provided with catahles and extravagantly dear. ( Author. ) \ Hotel at Florence. HOTEL SCH^VEIDERFF, Limgo V4rno, HAS long been known to the British nobility as one of the best hotels upon the continent; it is still conducted with the same liberality for which it has been so many years distinguished, and which has obtained the patronage of so many British families of the highest class. M HOTELS AT FLORENCE. HOTEL DES ARMES D'ANGLETERRE OF PEHCATT, M. Gasperini, piazza Sta. Trinita, Is still continued with the same attention and respec- tability as for many years past, and which has gained it I he reputation it has so long enjoyed of being a comforta- ble house. M. GASPERTNI also continues his carriage- manufactory and either builds or repairs carriages in a very superior manner ; to this department of his business parti- cular attention is paid that the work is properly executed. The Antiatlrition-grease for wheels may also be had here. HOTEL D'EUROPE, Late M. Hombert, piazza Sta. Trinita ; DURING the time it was conducted by M. HOMBERT, it was a good deal patronised by distinguished and highly respecta- ble English families; the hotel is now in the hands of a nephew of M. HOMBERT and was much complained of in 1838, for the meanness with which it is at present conducted, which, with the very exorbitant charges, has already driven many families away from it, and deterred others from going to it. HOTEL ROYAL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE, Domenico Caprini, lungo I'^rno, Is agreably situated about midway between the bridge of Santa Trinita and the old bridge; it is a large and well conducted establishment, frequented by families of the greatest respectability. The hotel contains large and small apartments, and separated chambers, elegantly and com- fortably furnished; an excellent kitchen and good stables and coach-houses. Carriages and horses may be had for town or country. HOTELS AT FLORENCE. 45 HOTEL D'YORK, fljme 4ugier, NEAR the Postoffice and public offices, close to the Cathe- dral and the Palace. This hotel, situated in the centre of the (own, is now ably conducted by M mc ACGIER; it contains suits of rooms conveniently arranged for the reception of large or small families, with chambers for single persons, all of them neatly and comfortably furnished and carpeted throughout ; dinners in private apartments are served at any lime, and there is an excellent and well served table d'hote (which is supplied with good wine) daily. This hotel has long been resorted to by English families of distinction, and is now by the judicious management of M me Ai'ciER much patronised by the English generally. There is a lock-up-coach-house for carriages, and warm and cold baths may be had at the hotel. HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE LOKDRES, ( Hotel of the City of London) Bernard Genovali, -415-4, Corsodella Regina, IN EAR the centre of the town; it is a large establishment and contains many suits of rooms handsomely and com- fortably furnished, and adapted for the reception of large or small families and single persons. In the winter the rooms are carpeted throughout and certainly have the appearance of much comfort. The hotel is placed in a quiet situation within a few moments' walk of the Lutiyo VArno, and the proprietor assured the author that he kept a good cook, excellent wines, and that his house was con- ducted with liberality, that his charges were made as mo- derate as possible, both for his apartments, dinners and 40 HOTELS AT FLORENCE. other refreshments. Families or others intending to re- main a long or short period in Florence, will be treated with at so much per head, eilher by the day or week, and the charges in this case will be found very reasonable. There is good stabling and safe standing for carriages, and carriages for the town or for excursions. Posthorses and voiluriers for journeys can be obtained at a few minutes' notice. The landlord of (his house appeared anxious to give satisfaction. I have no douhl it will be found a (juiet, comfortable and reasonable residence. ( Author. ) HOTEL DE LA PENSION SUISSE, Denis Michel Monir, 4185, near the bridge and place of Sta. Trinita, opposite the palace Storzi. THIS is a respectable hotel, well situated in the centre of the town, near the Cathedral , the Palace and the public offices. The apartments are handsomely and comfortably furnished ; there is a well supplied table d'hote at 4 o'clock in summer and at 3 in winter, with breakfasts and de- jeuners a la fourchette at any hour. Good stabling and lock-up-coach-houses. M. MONIR was for many years cook in an English family of dis- tinction, and his hotel is noted for the excellent dinners he serves up, and which he himself invariably superintends. Bclh he and his wife speak English. (Author.} ALBERGO DELLE CHIAVI 'ORO, ( the Golden Key Hotel J Francis Baldassare Bosia, Is not a large establishment and is mostly resorted to by sin- gle gentlemen ; there are however comfortable apartments HOTELS AT FLORENCE. 47 for small families ; il is a clean hotel, and conducted in n quiet and respectable manner by the worthy proprietor, who speaks very good English arid understands the English habits ; he assured the author he should be anx- ious to please those who patronised his house. There is stabling and safe coach-houses belonging lo the hotel. The charges will be found extremely reasonable. SIRS. CLARKS BOARDING-HOUSE, Lungo VArno, near Schnetderffs hotel, Is very agreeably situated. It has long had the reputation of being a highly respectable and very comfortable house. The apartments arc numerous and very neatly arid con- veniently furnished ; most of them command pleasing views of the Arno and the principal promenade on the opposite side of the river. For breakfast, dinner, lea and bed-room. ... 10 pants per day. do do d<> for servant 6 d In winter half a paul is charged extra for each person, for drawing-room, fire and lights. Extras. For a friend to dine 6 pauls per day. n a basket of wood 4 d four bundles brush-wood \ d a pair of wax-light* 3 d" a warm balh 4 do > a cold balh .2 d stand for a carriage 5 pauls perweek. stall for a horse 5 d Mrs. CIARK and her daughter conduct their house in a highly cre- ditable manner, and much to the satisfaction of the numerous very respectable families who resort lo their clean and comfortable 1S FLORENCE. establishment ; they are very agreeable, and ahvavs anxiously alive lo ihe wants of their guests. In 1838 they were so full that many families were obliged to wait at their hotels until they could be received. Parties desiring apartments at their house would do wel' (o write a few days previous to their arrival. (Author.) Is beautifully situated in a luxuriant and extensive val- ley, almost encircled by the Apennines ; its walls are near six miles in circumference and it now (1839) contains upwards of ninety thousand inhabitants ; it is adorned with numerous squares, four handsome stone-bridges, and its streets are clean and well paved with large flat-stones, and were the facades of many of its churches and of tho Palazzo Ducale finished, it might justly be termed Fi- renze la Bella, or Florence the Fair. It is certainly one of the handsomest towns in Italy, and has lately been further embellished by the erection of two light and ele- gant suspension-bridges, one at each exlrernity of the city. The objects best worth visiting are : The Palazzo Vecchio with its lofty and beautiful tower, the effect of which upon a clear moonlight-night is most striking. The Royal Gallery in the Palazzo Ducale; the piazza del Gran Duca, in which the palace is placed and where the equestrian statue of Cosmo, in bronze, and the foun- tain exhibiting a statue of Neptune in a car drawn by four sea-horses, will at once attract the attention of the stranger. The Loggia del Lanzf, in the same piazza, contains pieces of sculpture, by Donatello and B. Cellini, in FLORENCE. 49 bronze, a groupe in marble by Giovanni di Bologna, six statues of Sabirie Priestesses, adorned at either side by lions of marble. The construction of the roof of the lodge is admirable, and the capitals of the columns support a frieze and projecting cornice. The Royal Gallery or Fabbrica degli Ufizi contains sta- tues and busts, and bassi-rilievi, wonderful specimens of art, Cabinets of Gems, of Egyptian Antiquities, bronzes and vases, and in the Hall of Niobe the celebrated groupe of classical figures found at Rome near IhePorta Ostiensis; also galleries of pictures named after distinguished masters or celebrated schools ; many of the pictures arc by English artists, Reynolds and others. The tribune contains ad- mirable specimens of sculpture and paintings ; here is the famous Venere di Medici, the elegant statue of Apolline, the knife-grinding Slave, the groupe of Wrestlers, and delicately proportioned dancing Fauns, pictures by Michel Angelo, Guido, Titian, Correggio, Raphael, and other eminent masters. The cabinet is paved with precious marbles and is said to contain more treasures of art than any room in the world. The palazzo Pitti contains a celebrated collection of pictures, statues, busts, magnificent vases and an altar of exquisite Florentine workmanship in pietre dure. The Grand Duke resides in this palace. It may generally be seen between the hours of 9 and 3. The Museum of Na- tural History of Florence is sard to be the finest in the world ; it was collected by the Grand Duke Leopold. 'I'hcDuomo and Ihe churches of Florence are full of in- terest. The Cathedral has a sombre appearance, the walls being inlaid with black and while marble ; it is still in an unfinished state. Most of the churches and many, other 50 FLORENCE. buildings of Florence contain fine frescoes, marking the progress of painting from the lime of Giolto to that of Masaccio. The Campanile is a very fine building and is placed near the Duomo; the walls are inlaid with black, white, and red marble, and adorned with statues by Donatello and other eminent artists ; the edifice was designed by Giolto ; the bronzed doors of the Baptistery are by Ghi- berli, assisted by his son; Ihey are very fine, but not so beautiful as those by John of Bologna at Pisa. The Chapel of the Medici, the magnificent mausoleum of the merchant Princes of Florence, still remains unfi- nished, and the bare bucks of a portion of the building strangely contrast with the pavement and valuable orna- ments below. The Laurentian Library conlains numerous objecls of much interesl, and Ihere are many private galleries of pictures of great value in Florence, which with the palaces and a thousand olher objects worth the notice of the visiter will be found described in a small but useful Guide to Florence, which may be purchased at any of the booksel- lers for a trifle. The climate of Florence is very delightful jn spring and autumn, variable, with sometimes exceedingly cold winds during winter, and very hot in the summer months. Florence is at all times extremely gay ; at the present epoch it is more than usually so, during winter 5 owing to the kind and affable manners of the amiable Sovereign, whose condescension and politeness to foreigners induce a number to pass the winter in this queen of cilies. The environs of Florence are singularly beauliful. The usual carriage-drive is to the Casino and Boyal farms, the ENGLISH DIVINE SERVICE AT FLORENCE. 51 walks and rides around which are exceedingly pretty; they are open to the public at all hours. The Boboli gardens (Giardino df Boboli) form also a cool and delightful promenade amidst fine avenues of trees impenetrable to the rays of the sun. The fountain al the end of the principal walk is decorated with a statue of Neptune standing on an immense basin of granite, with the Ganges, the Nile and the Euphrates beneath, the whole by John of Bologna. The Neptune in bronze and the sea- monslers are by Lorenzi, and the four unfinished statues of course by Michel Angelo. There are numerous other statues of grotesque and very singular appearance, and the gardens are altogether most interesting. Another walk is to the Porta Pinta, where the ancient and manly game of pallone is played ; few gentlemen leave Florence without seeing this game, which requires bo!h strength and skill. As Florence is now chosen as a winter residence by a great number of English families, independent of the usual influx of wanderers in Italy, the following informa- tion may be found useful. English Divine Service. DIVINE worship according lo the Service of the Church of England is performed every Sunday morning at 12 o'clock in Ihe palazzo Ferroni, via di Senayli. Seats may be taken by the year, month or day, and although tickets are disposed of at the door before service, it is recom- mended that they should be procured from the custodc at the Chapel the day previous, as many persons object to the paying money at the door of a Chapel, which the com- 5-2 ENGLISH DIVINE SERVICE AT FLORENCE. inittee would have gladly avoided had it been possible ; but after long experience, they found that until that me- thod was adopted, the receipts fell so far short of the expenses that the Chapel would otherwise have had to be closed. There is a spacious gallery left open for free admission to servants and such persons as are not disposed to contribute to the expenses of the Church. The present Chapel (1839) is only a hired room; but a subscription has been lately set on foot to procure a permanent esta- blishment, and sufficient money having been subscribed to pay the first instalment (about one third of the price) a 'commodious house on the Lung' Arno has been purchased which will shortly be fitted up for the purpose and for the Chaplain's residence ; and the committee trusts to the liberality of their fellow-countrymen to enable them to meet the other instalments. Subscriptions for this pur- pose-will be received by J.-L. MAQUAY Esq. treasurer and secretary to the committee, and by Messrs. BOGLE KERRICK and Co., English bankers at Florence, by BISHOP LUSCOMBE and by Messrs. GAUGNANI at Paris, by Messrs. BARCLAY BEVAI? and Co., or Messrs. WILLIAMS, DEACON, LABOUCHERE and Co., bankers at London The Rev. R. J. TENANT, M. A. of Trinity College, Cambridge, chaplain, has an Even- ing Service at 7 o'clock on Sunday evenings, to which all those who attend the chapel are invited. He receives pupils from the age of 8 years and upwards, and prepares them for the universities on the following terms : Day-scholars under 15 years old, 55 /. st.; d above 15 years, 45 /. st. per annum. Boarders under 15 years, ICO /. st. per annum ; d above 15 years, 125 /. st. per annum. He has the; assistance of the best extra-masters. No FLORENCE. 53 extras, except personal expenses, such as washing, medical Attendance, etc. Further particulars may be obtained by applying to the Secretary at Florence. Bankers. The bankers at Florence who transact most of the Knglish business, are MESSRS. PLOWDEN AND FRENCH, 1015, piazza Santa Trinita, \y old established highly respectable and very obliging firm. Messrs. PLOWDEN and FRENCH have a branch-bank at the Baths of Lucca, which is open from the 1st of June until the 1st of October for the accommodation of stran- gers; they transact every description of banking-busi- ness and have connexions in all the principal towns of (he continent, upon whom they accommodate their friends with credits in the usual way. Messrs. PLOWDEN and FRENCH'S correspondents in London are Messrs. HERRIES and Co.; they are also agents for Mr. WAGHORN of Alexandria, for the transmission of letters to India. MESSRS. BOGLE KERRICK AND CO., Palazzo Giacomi, -4182, piazza Sta. Trinita, A recently established (about two years), highly respec- table and extremely obliging linn. Messrs. BOGLE KERRICK and Co. have a branch-bank at the Baths of Lucca from the 1st of June to the 1st of Oclo- 5. S4 FLORENCE. her, where every description of banking-business is transacted the same as in Florence; they have corre- spondents in most of the principal towns of the continent ; their banking and mercantile connexions in London are of the very first class. Messrs. BOGLE KERRICK and Co. are agents for the receipt and shipment of works of art, baggage, etc., for Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN and Co. of No. 8, Old Jewry, London. MESSRS. EMMANUEL FENZI AND CO., ( English partner, Mr. HORACE HAIL ) Piazza del Gran Duca, AN old established firm of undoubted credit and respec- tability. The English partner, 3Ir. HORACE HALL, is not very gracious. He is however extremely honourable in his dealings. The bankers of Florence give the same exchange as those of Leghorn. Resident English Physicians. DR. PLAYFAIR. Dr. PLAYFAIR has been a resident of Florence for some years; he is well acquainted with the climate, a gentleman of great talent in his profession and much respected by English residents. (Author.) DR. SEALY. ftr. SKALY is recently established at Florence; he is a gentleman of distinguished talent in his profession and the author of Medical Essays and other medical works of great merit (Author.} FLORENCE. 55 Resident English Surgeon. MR. HARDIXG. Mr. HARDING is an old resident of Florence: lie Is much respected as a of great talent in his profession. ( Author.) Professor of Languages. MR. J. THOMPSON, teacher of English, Italian and Latin. Mr. THOMPSON is interpreter to the courts of law, Apothecaries. MR. GAETANO FERRAI, apothecary and druggist, piazza Santa Trinita. At this establishment prescriptions are prepared \vilh great care and attention after the English manner and with English weights and measures. Eng- lish patent medicines of every description may be obtain- ed here. There is a physician to the establishment. MR. E. FORINI, apothecary and druggist, at the sign of the SS. Concezione, near the Postoffice, pia&za del Gran Duca. At this establishment prescriptions are prepared after the English manner, with great care and attention and with English weights and measures. English patent medicines of every description may be had here. There is a physician to the establishment. These are highly respectable chemists, and divide between them nearly the whole of the English business. (Author.) English Booksellers. .MR. GIUSEPPE MOLINI, bookseller and editor, laic librarian ot the Palatine Library, 1271, via degli Archibusieri ; and at Mr. C. F. MOLIM'S, 14, Paternoster- Row, Lon- 56 FLORENCE. don. At this establishment a very large collection of liui?- lish books are always on sale. Books are also obtained from London and Paris. Mr. MOLIM speaks English and is extremely obliging. Public Library. FLORENCE contains one of the most extensive scientific and literary reading-rooms and circulating libraries upon the continent, that of Mr. VIECSSETJX, piazza Sta. Tri- nita. Open daily throughout the year from 8 in the morning till 10 in the evening. There are the journals of England, France, Italy, Germany and America. The subscription is : For one year 120 paoli. nine months. . 100 quarterly. . . . . 45 two months. . . . . 55 one month. . . . . 20 fortnight. . . week. . . . 15 . . 10 dav. . . 2 each visit. . . . 1 English Agents, /fine Merchants, etc. MR. SAMUEL LOWE, piazza Santa Trinita, at the corner of the Hotel (V Europe, English agent, foreign wine-mer- chant and dealer in spirits, groceries, leas, coffees, haber- dashery, patent medicines, cau de Cologne, and a great variety of English articles. Mr. LOWE has long been esta- blished at Florence, is honourable in his dealings and has FLORENCE. 57 a well selected stock of English goods. He is agent for the receipt of works of art, baggage, etc. to be forwarded to the care of Mr. J. F. CHINNERY, Custom-House and shipping agent, Thames-Street (opposite the Custom-House), London. Fancy and ornamental icarehouse. MESSRS. J. A. PRIIVOTH AND sows, rue du Marche Neuf, dealers in ornamental and fancy articles in very great va- riety, English cut glass, Wedgwood's ware, hardware, objects of art, utility and decorative. Foreign wines, eau de Cologne, etc. Visitors lo Florence should inspect the splendid and valuable stock of. Messrs. PBINOTH ; if they do not purchase they will be highly gratified in viewing the many objects ancient and modern, that are constantly collected from all climes, and displayed for sale in this elegant reposi- tory. Mr. PRINOTH speaks English and is extremely obliging. {Author.) Works in mosaic. M. GIUSEPPE BIANCHIM AND SONS, 5110, Canto de' Nelli, near the Reals Cappella de' Medici, manufacturers of tables and ornaments in mosaic for ladies, etc. etc. They under- take any description of work appertaining to their art upon the following terms : one half of the amount of the order to be paid down, the other half upon delivery of the articles in England, through their agents Messrs. J. and R. 31' CRACK.EN, the respectable Custom-House and Ship- ping agents, 8, Old Jewry, London, who receive and deli- ver, or warehouse until called for, all packages addressed lo their care. Messrs. BIANCHIIU rank amongst the most celebrated artists of Italy in their line ; they are much and deservedly patronised by the Eng- 1)8 FLORENCE. lish nobility. Visiters to Florence cannot fail being much gratified by a visit to their studio. (Author.} French Repository. THE GOLDEN GRAPES, V.-L. BOIZARD, successor of LAMBERT COUTURE, 26, via de' Cerrctani, canto alia Pa- glia (nearly opposite the Hotel d'l'ork), celebrated for foreign wines, perfumeries, gloves, colours for drawing, decorative ornaments in paper, etc., articles of taste, and a very large assortment of worsteds and works com- menced in embroidery and tapestry. This repository of articles of taste, elegance and fashion, is highly respectable and much patronised by the English. (Author.) MRS. TOWNLY AND SONS' establishment is situated in the piazza San Gaetano. The following articles may be purchased, the whole of them of a very superior descrip- tion, most of them received direct from England : Foreign wines and spirits, ale and beer ; teas, sugars, coffees, spices, pickles and sauces of every description; English patent and other medicines ; stationary. Perfumery ; saddlery, harness, articles for the stable ; woollen- drapery, Irish and other linens, linen-drapery of French cambrics. Hosiery and haberdashery in great variety ; silk-goods, beaver-hats. Mrs. TOWNIY keeps ready made and makes to order a variety of articles of utility and fashion; child-bcd-linen, children's dresses, etc. etc. etc. FLORENCE. 5 1 J This is an extensive and very long established house ; travellers will do well to apply to Mrs. TOWNLY for lodg- ings, and any other information they may require, which is afforded gratis; luggage, parcels, or letters addressed to the house will be carefully attended to; lodgings are also procured for parlies who write previously, stating the de- scription of apartments they require. Travellers, orsojourners in Florence, should patronise Mrs. TOWNIT'S establishment; ihey will find every article they may require, either for travelling or a residence. I can with confidence recommend it. The real anliattrition can be had here. (Author.) English Tailor. T. HASKARD, tailor and habit-maker from London, 1184, Lung' Arno. Every article of dress got up in the latest fashions of London and Paris, of the very best materials and at moderate prices. Mr. HASKARO is a good tailor; he appears anxious to merit the pa- tronage of his countrymen; he will wait upon them at their hotel or lodgings ntany time they desire. (Author. ) English Livery-Stables. THOSE kept by JAMES HCBAND, late MILLS, arc on the Lung' Arno, near Schneiderff's Hotel. Here horses are taken great care of and attended to by English grooms. Mr. HCBAISD has also dry and secure standing for carriages of all descriptions, which are received and kept in order at a reasonable charge per day, week or month. He has a number of ladies or gentlemen's saddle-horses, which may be hired for any period. He also buys or sells horses and carriages upon commission. CO FLORENCE. Mr. HUBAND conducts his business in a respectable way and deserves I lie patronage of his countrymen. ( Author, ) English Veterinary Surgeon and Horse-Dealer. MR. JOSEPH GAMGEE (piazza San Gaetano), a member of the London Royal Veterinary College, has been several years established at Florence as veterinary surgeon, and livery-stable keeper; he deals largely in horses, which he selects himself in England annually, and imports into Italy. lie has also always on sale a large stock of saddlery, harness, etc. etc., manufactured by WHIPPY of London; the whole of which, including every necessary article for stable-use, may be depended upon, as of very superior workmanship. Horses of a very superior description may be hired either for ladies or gentlemen ; or for harness for any period ; he also buys and sells horses upon com- mission, either in England or Florence. Mr. GAMGEE'S business is upon an extensive scale, it is conducted on a most respectable system, and much to the satisfaction of all who patronise his establishment. His address is piazza San Gaeta.no, at Florence. (Author.} ' . CHAPTER HI, The post-relays and number of posts from Florence to Romu by Sienna ; the totiil expense of posting by this road Some of the hotels on this route described Post-relays from Florence to Rome by Arezxo and Foligno, with the total expense of posting by this road Description of the route from Florence to Rome by Sienna Hotels at Rome fully described Samcs of objects to see at Rome Protestant Divine service at Rome English consul, bankers, merchants, artists, agents, physicians, surgeons and respectable tradesmen to deal with. Route from Florence to Rome. Post-relays and number of posts from Florence to Rome, by Sienna. Posts. Florence to S. Casciano (extra horse) 1 Tavernelle 1 Poggihonzi 1 Castiglioncello (extra horse) 1 Sienna 1 Montarone 1 Buonconvenio 1 Torrinieri (extra horse) 1 La Poderina 1 Ricorsi (extra horse) 1 Radicofani 1 I'ontccentino 1 Aquapendcnte 1 San Lorenzo (extra horse) 3/4 Bolsena (extra horse) 1 Monte Fiascone (extra horse) 11/4 Vilcrho 1 6 02 ROUTE FROM FLORENCE TO ROME. Imposta (extra horse) ............. \ Ronciglione ........... \ Monterosi ................. \ Baccano ................ I LaStorta .................. \ Rome ................... \ Posls. . . 23 1/i Upon quitting Florence, one paul extra for each horse is charged for the first post. Florence to Rome by Perugia. Florence to Pontassieve ............. 11/2 Incisa .................. \ 1/2 San Giovanni ................ \ Levane .................. 1 Ponticino ................. \ Arezzo .................. I liigutino ............. ) Camuccia ................. 1 Casa del Piano ............ \ Magione .................. I Perugia .................. 11/2 Sta. Maria degli Angeli ............. 1 Foligno ......... ......... | Le Vene ................. \ Spoleto .................. I Strettura (extra horse) ............ 1 Terni ................... \ Narni (extra horse) .............. 1 Otricoli .................. <\ Borghetto (extra horse) ............ 3/4 Civita Castellana ............... 3/4 Nepi ................... 1 Monterosi ................. 3/4 Baccano .................. j La Storta .... ............. \ Rome ................... 11/4 Posts. . 27 HOTELS FROM FLORENCE TO ROME. 03 Total expense of Posting from Florence to Rome by Sienna. paoli. bajocchi. fr. c. For one pair of horses. . . . 232 5 .... 130 20 For fees to the postilions. . . 139 5 .... 78 12 do to the ostlers. 12 6 72 Total in pauls. . 384 In francs . 215 04 From Florence lo Rome by Perugia the expense of posting is paoli. fr. c. For one pair of horses. . . . 275 154 For fees to the postilions. . . 165 91 20 d lo the ostlers. . 13 , 7 12 Total in pauls. . 453 In francs . 252 32 Hotels on the route FROM FLORENCE TO ROME BY SIEHNA. HOTELS AT SIENNA. HOTEL DBS ARMES D'ANGLETERRE, A large and well conducted house; the landlord is ex- tremely civil, speaks French and is anxious to give satis- faction. There are good stabling and coach-houses. L'AIGLE TVOIR, In the centre of the town, a good and reasonable house; the landlord is very attentive and desirous to please, he speaks French. There are good stables and lock-up- coach-houses. The situation of Sienna, the salubrity of its climate and the cheap- t,4 ROUTE FROM FLORENCE TO ROME im.-is of houses and lodgings has lately (1838 and 1839 ) iiuluccil IIIHIIX English families to settle (here. Provisions of every description are abundant, very good and remarkahly cheap. ( Author. } HOTEL AT RADICOFANI. HOTEL DE LA POSTE, A very large, clean and comfortable house, beautifully situated under the ruins of the castle. The town, al- though very miserable, has a picturesque appearance from the hotel, from which there are extensive and fine views. There is good stabling and safe standing for carriages. HOTEL AT MONTE FIASCONE. HOTEL DE LA POSTE. THIS hotel has lately been rebuilt, and in 1839 was being well and handsomely furnished; the proprietor, who is also postmaster, is very civil and can furnish the traveller with some excellent wine in flasks. There is excellent stabling here and safe coach-houses. HOTEL AT RONCIGLIONE. L'AIGLE NOIR Is a good hotel ; the landlord is a very obliging and civil man, he does all he can to make you comfortable, and his charges are reasonable. There are stables and coach- houses. lloiitc IVoui Florence to Rome by Sienna. FROM Florence to Rome, through Sienna, the road is mountainous, but tolerably good; displaying in some BY SIENNA. OS (),)i ts wild and barren mountains, situated on the edge of which are occasionally to he seen the remains of old castles appearing in the distance, as if they were suspend- ed in the air, which renders the scenery still more wild and picturesque; but this scenery changes continually, the whole way to Rome presenting fertile vineyards sur- rounded by hills, clothed with the beautiful silver olive- trees. Sicima Is a large, handsome and clean town, with some good shops; it is situated on the acclivity of a mountain, and at one time its population amounted to more than a hun- dred thousand, but now it does not amount to more than twenty-five thousand. Provisions are good, and reason- able apartments are also to be had here on moderate terms. In the environs are numerous villas, apparently delightfully calculated for summer residences. There are many ob- jects that deserve notice in Sienna. The Cathedral is a noble structure of Tuscan-Gothic architecture; the pave- ment is said to be one of the most curious -works of art in Italy, and consists of scriptural histories, wrought in mosaic ; it also contains frescoes and fine statues. The tower of the Palazzo delta Signoria is a fine specimen of architecture. The church of San Lorenzo is famous for an ancient Roman inscription, and a curious well, at the bottom of which is a kind of fountain supported by co- lumns of great antiquity. There arc other churches out- side the town which contain good pictures. There is also a fountain celebrated for the quality and 66 ROUTE FROM FLORENCE TO ROME the quantity of its water; the climate of Sienna is consi- dered wholesome at all seasons of the year. This town contains a large and commodious theatre, which makes a part of the Palazzo degli Eccelsi; this also contains some good paintings. Sienna possesses a University, valuable Libraries, se- veral Academies and other public buildings and useful institutions. Some leagues distant from this town, situated to the left of the road, is the town of Chiusi ; it contains some antiquities, but its population is now much decreased in consequence of the impurity of its climate. About fifteen miles from Sienna is the memorable town of Bnonconvento, rendered so by the tragic death of the emperor Henry VII., who was poisoned by receiving the sacrament from a monk. It is prettily situated, but infected with mal'aria. The little town of San Quirico is in a healthy situation, surrounded partly by vineyards and olive-trees ; there is a curious well opposite the palace belonging to the Chigi family, an ancient tower of Roman origin and a Tuscan- Gothic church, all of which merit notice. As the mountain of Radicofani is approached, the coun- try becomes wild and desolate; the road continues to ascend for five miles till it reaches the summit, on which are immense heaps of stones, plainly indicating that it was at one time the mouth of a volcano. This is the frontier of Tuscany. After passing the old castle, which is now fallen to decay, the road descends to the foot of the mountain, a distance of five miles. On the way to Torricelli, a dangerous torrent is cross- ed; on the first branch of the torrent a bridge has been thrown over, and on the second branch another BY SIENNA. 07 was commenced in 1858; hitherto this part of the torrent has been crossed without one, which after heavy rains is exceedingly dangerous, and even in dry weather the tra- veller runs the risk of having his carriage upset; the road is full of large stones. After passing Torricelli , Pontecentino is entered, the first village of the Ecclesiastical State ; the Paglia is there crossed by a handsome bridge to Aquapendente, which unfortunately, like most of the towns in the Pope's domi- nions, is miserable and dirty ; the approach to it however is most beautiful. It is said to derive its name from the many waterfalls in its immediate neighbourhood. Pass- ports are here examined and sealed by the police-officers, who demand one paul per seal. Hence the road traverses a plain to the pretty and healthy village of San Lorenzo Nuovo, built by Pius VI. as a more healthy situation for the inhabitants of San Lorenzo Rovinato to remove to, in order to avoid the pestilential atmosphere of the last- named place. The village of Bolscna is beautifully situa- ted on the edge of a lake of the same name, which con- tains two islands, said by Pliny to have floated during his lime ; it is also said to have been the crater of a volcano ; this village contains some Roman antiquities. The little town of Orvicto, situated north-east of Bolsena and celebrated for the fineness of its wines, possesses a handsome Cathedral. The country from Bolsena to Monte Fiascone exhibits rocks of basalt interspersed with forest scenery ; the road passes a curious hill, covered with basaltine columns, many of them obliquely, some length out of the ground. Near this hill, there is also an ancient tomb. The town of Monte Fiasconc is prettily situated; it also 08 ROUTE FROM FLORENCE TO ROME. produces excellent wine. It is said that a traveller died from drinking too much of it. From Monle Fiascone to Vilerbo the road is dreary and uninteresting, but at a distance, the approach to the latter (own has a splendid appearance, it being encompassed by walls flanked with towers; it is a well paved town, adorned with handsome fountains and contains nearly thirteen thousand inhabitants. About a mile and a half from Vitcrbo on the right, is a lake of hot water. After leaving Viterbo the road proceeds over part of Monte Cimino; at the base of this mountain and near Ronciglionc, is the lake of Vico, three miles in circumference and supposed to be the mouth of a volcano ; it is said a city called Suc- cinium once stood here, but was suddenly swallowed up in the depths of the lake. The Giminian forest, which at one lime covered the country round this lake to a great extent, was once infested by a horde of banditti. The miserable and dirty town of Ronciglione is placed in a valley, in a barren soil , where agriculture appears to be entirely neglected ; it is here the Campayna di Roma begins to feel the effects (during the summer) of the mal'aria. The roads of Lorelto and Sienna meet near the approach to Monterosi on the right, and riot far from the highroad, is Sutri, formerly an Etruscan town ; re- mains may be traced of an amphitheatre cut out of a lufo hill, near Monterosi. Two posts from Rome on the via Cassia is Raccano. The cupola of St. Peter's may be seen on the hill above JJaccano. From hence toPonteMolle the country becomes dreary and neglected. Rome presents herself to view from the heights, gradually appearing more distinct as the road descends to the banks of the Tiber, which is crossed ROME. Gtf at 1'onte Molle. Hence the route approaches the city, passing many deserted villas and houses, between their walls and gardens, until it arrives at the porla del Popolo, where passports are demanded, and unless a lasciapassarc has been lodged here by the agent or friends of the tra- veller, the carriage is accompanied by a custom-house officer (to whom a paul must be paid ) to the dogana
  • y so many fami- lies of distinction, that during the author's visit to Rome, it wa-. only by writing previously that apartments could be secured, and numbers of families, who had neglected to do this, or who did not \vrile in time, were obliged to seek olhcr lodgings. M. MEIONI speaks good English, and is well acquainted with Rome and the environs. (Author.} HOTEL DALLEMAOE, Roesler Franz. THIS hotel is situated in the via dei Condotti, opposite 74 HOTELS AT RO.ME. the British Consulate- office, close to the piazza di Spa- gna, ami in the most healthy part of Rome. The hotel contains many suits of apartments for large or small families, besides numerous bed-rooms for single persons. It is neatly and comfortably furnished, and is really what in England would be called a comfortable house. It has this year (1859) been resorted to by many English families of distinction, who expressed themselves as being satisfied by the conduct of the hotel. There is a very well supplied table d'hote daily at 5 o'clock, and the proprietor Mr. FRANZ, who is of a German family, does all in his power to add to the comfort and conve- niences of those that sojourn in his house. This hotel is very conveniently placed, it is conducted in a very able and liberal manner by tbe proprietor Mr. FRANZ, who is not only most desirous to give satisfaction, hut is extremely generous in all his dealings wilh the English; lie is a well informed young man and always happy lo give information to his guests upon all subjects connected wilh Rome and the environs. I can recommend his hotel with much confidence. (Author.) HOTEL CESARI, 39 , via di Pietra, NEXT lo the Custom-House, is a clean, well furnished, and comfortable house, containing numerous handsome apartments, which are let after the manner of the fur- nished hotels in Paris; breakfasts are served in the hotel, and nearly opposite there is an entrance to the best res- taurant in Rome, GICSEPPE BERTINI'S, 540, via del Corso. Those who prefer an hdlel garni will find ihis a comfortable and reasonable house, and the proprietor very civil and obliging. There is a neat establishment of bulhs and a billiard-room in the hotel. (Author.) ROME. 75 HOTEL DE LA GRANDE-BRETAGNE, Pietro Pestrini, 79, via del Babuino. . IT never was a good hotel, and this year (1839) the complaints were loud and numerous of the mean way it was conducted, the extravagant charges, the extortionate and shuffling conduct of the landlord, and Ihe insolence of the servants. It was only resorted to from absolute necessity lliis year, and those (hat were obliged to go there complained bitterly of the conduct of lliu proprietor M. P. FESTKINI, who, when lie sent up his extrava janl bills, used to pretend if asked for, that lie was out. The waiter could not alter the bill and was impertinent; there was therefore no alternative but to pay. . (Author.} The principal Traiteur and Restaurateur of Rome is GIUSEPPE BERTINI, 3-40, via del Corso. dejeuners a la fourchette, dinners, etc., etc., are served at all hours in a handsome sallc a manger; iu a separate saloon there is a very well served table d'hote at five o'clock for five pauls. Dinners are sent out to order in a superior style at any hour and to any part of the town with punctuality. This is a very good restaurant . the dinners are well flu. I plentifully served, cither at a fixed rate or d la carte. It is near the Hotel Ce- sari, where comfortable apartments may be had, with breakfast if re- quired. (Author.} Houses and Apartments furnished. THE houses at Rome are mostly upon a large scale; it is therefore difficult to meet with a whole house; there are 76 ROME. however sonic occasionally to be met with. The furnish- ed lodgings arc very numerous, some of them consisting of many rooms very elegantly and commodiously furnish- ed; in fact except in such a season as the present (1859), apartments may be had to suit all incomes. This year such was the influx of foreigners, that the proprietors were bewildered and did not know what to ask. There were many instances of apartments being let for 40 pias- ters a month, for which 12 had been considered sufficient in former years; and others, that in former years were considered well let at 100 and 1'JO piasters, were this year gladly occupied at from 5 to 400 piasters per month and even more. It is impossible to give the prices of apartments at Rome, they fluctuate with the season, but are generally dearer than in the other cities of Italy, Naples excepled. FRANZ, Hotel d'^llemagne, via dei Condotti, HAS several handsome and elegantly furnished houses and apartments to let by the month or year, in choice ;ind healthy situations ; parties may secure them by writing to Mr. FRANZ a short time previous to their arrival. Objects to visit at Rome. ROME and the objects best worth seeing in Rome, an- so much better described in the local Guides, which are ROME. 77 published almost .'mnually in Ihis cily and which arc bought for a trifle, that the author of this work confines himself to giving the names of the places and objects of interest, best worthy the attention of the visiler in and near this still splendid cily. For the antiquities of Rome, the latest edition of fast's Guide-Dook will be found the best ; if higher critical authority be required, Nibby's work should be had re- course to. After the traveller has settled himself either in his hotel or lodgings, it naturally becomes a question what is first to be seen : Saint Peter's occurs to his mind, and he cannot do belter. If he has a carriage, his coachman is as good a guide as he can have; he whirls him along through some narrow and dirty streets, and crossing the Tiber, at the bridge opposite the Castle of SanP Angela, in a few minutes he enters the great square diSan Pietro; immediately opposite on the summit of a gentle rise stands far-famed Saint Peter's of Rome; in advance of the Basi- lica or Duomo, is an obelisk of red granite, which, with ihe pedestal and cross, measures near 150 feel in height. On the right and left of this are fountains of surpassing beauty, the one erected by Innocent VIII., the other by Clement X. This splendid square is otherwise adorned with colonnades, forming on each side a triple portico of great magnificence. At the first visit Saint Peter's docs not appear so large as it is in reality; indeed, it is only after several visits that its vastncss becomes apparent. Immediately under Saint Peter's there is a subterranean church which ladies arc still prohibited from visiting without an order from the Pope. The palace of the Vatican is close to Saint Peter's; Us 7. 78 ROME. numerous galleries, porticoes, halls, corridors, saloons, museums and library, are filled with pictures, statues and ;inliquities. This palace and the Capitol may indeed he said to contain the national collection of works of art. Some of the private collections of pictures are exceed- ingly valuable ; those of the palazzo Borghese, the palazzo Falconieri (this collection belonged to the late cardinal Fesch, and is probably by this time either sold or distri buted amongst the brothers and nephews of Napoleon, to whom the cardinal was uncle) are among the finest. The palazzo Doria, the palazzo Corsini, the palazzo Bracciano, the palazzo Colonna and the palazzo Far- nese contain many excellent pictures. Some of the best paintings in Rome arc also to be found in churches, and those should be visited in the order laid down in the local Guide-Books. Independent of the pic- tures with which most of them areadorned, the churches are full of interest. The first visit to the Forum and the other interesting ruins of ancient Home should, if possible, be reserved for a moonlight-night 5 the effect is more than imagination can describe. The other objects of antiquity to be seen are : the palazzo de' Cesari, the Circus Maximus, the obelisk in the piazza del Popolo, the statues arid obelisk in the piazza di Monte Cavallo, the obelisk of Sta. Maria Maggiore, and the column in the piazza di Sta. Maria Maygiore; the Campidoglio, where a fine view is obtained of all the most striking features of ancient Rome ; the Scala Santa, the Pantlieon, the ruins of the palazzi d'Agosto e di Nerone, the Foro and the Colonna Trajana. The panoramic view from the tower on the Capitoline hill embraces most PROTESTANT DIVINE SERVICE. 79 of those objects, the walls of Ihe cily and a hundred other objects of antiquarian interest. Beyond the walls the Temple of Bacchus, the Tomb of Cecilia Metella and the long and splendid Aqueducts, which stretch across the so- litary Campagna, call forcibly to the mind the events of by-gone centuries. Independent of Saint Peter's arid the Vatican, modern Rome has many other attractions. Its churches are par- ticularly handsome and contain pictures by the most emi- nent masters. The palazzo Pontificio, a princely structure situated on the (^uirinal hill, the Castel di Sant' Angela, the Fontana di Trevi. The palazzo Boryhese is very splendid and particularly rich in paintings. The other noble palaces already na- med, together with numerous others, many Academies, Hospitals and other public buildings. The Mosaic Manufacture is well worth notice, as are the studios of many distinguished artists of the present day. Protestant Divine service at Rome. In religious matters the present Government at Rome is considerate and forbearing. The British residents and visiters have been allowed to lit up a large and convenient room just outside the porta del Popolo, where Protestant Divine Service according to the rites of the Church of England, is solemnized on Sunday in the morning and afternoon. The morning Service commences at 11 o'clock and the afternoon at 5 o'clock. 80 ROME. The expense attendant upon the celebration ol the Church Service is paid for by subscription. Strangers ;ire requested to leave their address upon their entrance, that they may be waited upon by the person appointed to collect the contributions. The British Consular Agent at Rome Is Mr. FREEBORN; the office is in the bank of Messrs. FREE- BORN, JOJIES and Co., 7, via del Condotti. Rankers, Agents, etc. THE Bankers who transact most of the English business at Rome, are Messrs. TORLOMA and Co. in the piazza Ve- nezia. This is a very eminent establishment, extremely polite to Grangers Messrs. TORLONIA and Co. have correspondents in all the principal towns upon the continent, and in England and America. (Author.} MESSRS. FREEBORN, JONES and Co., English and American bankers, 7, via del Condotti; with connexions and corres- pondents in all the principal towns upon the continent, and in England and America. A very old established and highly respectable firm; Mr. FREE- BORN is British Consular Agent ; he has resided many years at Rome, and is well acquainted with everything affecting strangers in thai city and the Papal Stales. Travellers should take an introduction to Mr. FRBLBORP* ; lliey will find him extremely obliging and fre- quently of great service to them, particularly in obtaining the lascia passare or permit to pass the custom-houses of the Pontifical Slates without examination, and which the Human Government is now liberal in granting to families of dUlinction, (.4utlioi < ROME. 81 MR. ALEXANDER GRAM, palazzo Gregorio, 71, Due Ma- celli. A gentleman, kind and obliging in his manners, and highly respec- table. During my vi-.it to Home (1839) Mr. GKAN r luul some fine wines, consisting of claret, Saint-Julian particularly fine, Marsalla, etc. etc. at very reasonable prices ; he has also frequently on sale pictures and other objects of art, by talented and first-rate artists. (Author.) Painters. SIGNOR MICHEL ANGELO PACETTI, 38, via Gregoriana, painter in landscape. Signer Pacetti is very distinguished in his profession; he gives lessons in painting in families of distinclion, etc. The Chevalier ANTOINE CHATELUNE, 226, via Ripetta. The chevalier CHATELAINE is preeminent in likenesses; he is also esteemed the best imitator of celebrated ancient masters now in Rome , lie generally has some fine pictures by him. (Author.) Sculptors, The most eminent sculptor of the present day is still the CAVALIERE THORWALDSE^, a Dane, via delle Colonette ed alle Slalle di BarberinL The most eminent English sculptors are : Vt>srs. Gibson. 6 and 7, via della Fontanella ; Wyalt, 11, al Llabuino, vicolo della Fontanelta , Golt, 155, via del Babuino ; Kenny, 504, via del Corso; Campbell, 58, via Sistina; Lawrence, M'Donald. 8, via del Corto. 82 ROME. SiRnor Tadolini, a Bolognese, 105, via del Babuino, Cfiiesa de* Greci; M. Louis Bienaime", a Frenchman, 5, piazza Barberini; are also celebrated and very eminent sculptors. All those gentlemen are extremely kind and obliging to strangers who visit their studios. English historical Painters. Messrs. Atkins, 6, via delta Croce. Daries, 76, via Margutta. Eartlake, 12, piazza Mignanelli. Reynolds, 9, via delta Mercede. Smith, Geo., 8, porta Pinciana. Williams, P., 12, piazza Maynanetli. English landscape Painters. Mt^srs. Dissonlari, 9, S. Giuseppe, Capo le Case. Newholt, 107, via Sistina. Williams, 1, vicolo Gesit e Maria. Works in bronze. M. HOPFGAUTEJI, late Hopfgarlen and Jollage, 9i, via de' Due Macelli, is much celebrated for works in bronze, and M. VINCENZO BELLI, 63, via delta falle, is very celebrated for works in silver and other metals. Those are very old and distinguished establishments; signer P>BLU . has existed since 1730. (Author.) Pastes, Sulphurs, etc. M. PIETKO PAOLBTTI, 49, piazza dl Spagna, and M. THOMAS CADES, 456, via del Corso, excel in the art of makinj; pastes and sulphurs ; they are very old establishments and have for many years been extensively patronised by the English. ROME. 83 Itesident Physicians. DR. KISSOCK, a gontloniaii of great merit in his proles-" sion, has resided at Rome a considerable time, and in Italy many years; his address is I'alazzo Lepri, 78. via del la Croce. Dr. KISSOCK. attends the Baths of Lucca from May to the end of September. DR. DEAKIN resides here from the month of October to May. His address is via delta Croce, the quarter of the oily most frequented by the English; from October lo May he attends the Baths of Lucca. Dr. DEAKIN is a gentleman of distinguished merit in his profession and of most agreeable manners. ( Author. ) DR. PANTALEOKE is an Italian physician of considerable talent and practice, he resides at Rome all the year; his address is 52 , via Bocca di Leone, near piazza di Spagna. Dr. PANTAI.EONE is a gentleman of distinguished talent in his pro- fession, which he studied at Berlin ; he speaks several languages, Eng- lish particularly well; he is well known and much esteemed l>y many English families that frequent Rome. ( Author.) Resident Surgeon. MR. GLOAG, 90, via Babuino. Mr. GLOAC is a gentleman of much talent in his profession, his prac- tice is very extensive ; he is a member of the English College of Sur- geons. (Author.} The climate of Rome in the winter, spring and autumn 84 ROME. months is considered very healthy. During summer the mal' aria prevails, and all those that can do so leave Rome and go to Florence, the Baths of Lucca, etc. etc. The winter of 1838 was extremely cold in Rome; ice in the streets was common and snow fell occasionally, a circumstance of rare occurrence in this city of late years ; the weather was otherwise remarkably fine and bracing throughout the season of 1838 to 1839 (Author.) Apothecary. BALESTRA BORINI, 98, via del Babuino, near the piazza
  • li generally. Most of the articles he deals in, are imported direct and are of excel- lent quality ; he is very civil and obliging and will furnish strangers with a list of lodging-houses and give them any other information in lii power. (Author.} English Warehouse. CHARLES CAMPI, 60, piazza di Spagna, dealer in leas, cof- fees, sugar, fish, sauces, stationary, carpels, cloth, linen, muslins, flannels of English manufacture, Sheffield and Britannia-ware, candleslicks and ihe best Foligno wax- candles, bronze, and other lamps, lea-urns, Rogers' Shef- field cutlery, and a variety of articles imported direct from the best manufacturers in England. Fine old Jamaica rum, Cognac brandy, foreign wines, etc. etc. of superior quality. Mr. CAMPI conducts his business in a very creditable manner, his teas, coffees, etc. are of very fine quality, and his goods generally are received from first-rate houses and may be depended upon. He speaks good English, and is a respectable man. (Author.) Wine- Merchant. G. SOLBE, 2S5, via Condotti, dealer in wines, spirits, teas, coffees, sugars, spices, flsh, sauces, hosiery and a great variety of English articles. 8. 90 ROME. Mr. SOLBE is an isnglishniun and hopes l>y his attention to lli< orders of his compatriots to receive a share of their patronage, which he will endeavour to deserve by supplying every article of a good description (Author.) Respectable tradesmen for Saddlery and Harness of every description. 1 can strongly recommend Mr. CLARKE, via del Babuino; he keeps a large stock of every description of articles in his line, most of them of English manufacture, or manu- factured under his own superintendence. He also receives carriages either to repair or for sale, or exchange. Mr. CLARKK has been established many years and is a highly respectable man, to the frequenters of Rome he is well known. Strangers cannot do better than apply to him for any article they \\anl in his line, he is extremely obliging and civil. ( Author.} Tailors. THEHE is an excellent English tailor, Mr. HAMILTON, 04, Due MacelU, close to the piazza di Spagna : he has been slablished between three and four years, and has given general satisfaction ; he receives the latest fashions from London and 1'aris, makes up the very best materials and is punctual in the execution of his orders. The author can with confidence recommend Mr. HAMILTON to the no- tice of his compatriots, by whom he is anxious to be patronised ; he will wait upon them at their hotel or apart- ments at any time they desire. ULISSE MARCHKTTI, & and 6 (on the first floor), via Con- ROME. 91 dotli, near Messrs. FREEBORPI, JONES and Co., the English b inkers, receives regularly the latest fashions from Paris, ami makes up every article of dress in the lirst style, of the very best materials, and at moderate prices. ULISSE M.uicnK TTI is a good tailor, prompt in the execution of his orders and reasonable in his prices. ( Author. ) Lithographic Printer and Engraver. SANTARELLI. Visiting-cards and lithographic views exe- cuted at a very short notice. SANTARELLI is clever in his line of business, his lithographies ;u-< fxecuted with much neatness. Coiffeur and Perfumer. 419 and 420, via del Corso, is an excellent hair dresser; he has a large and very neat dep6t of perfumery, gloves from Paris and Naples, flowers, braces, razors, penknives, gentlemen's walking-canes, velvets for waist- coats, and indeed an endless variety of neat and elegant articles for the toilet, either of the lady or gentleman ; his liair-cutting-rooms adjoin the shop. foiturt'er. THE best voilurier at Rome is GIUSEPPE PANDOLFO PA- RETE, 107, via del Babuino. Here carriages may be had for every kind of journey, whether for Naples, Switzerland, Germany or France. Travellers to Naples will find carriages always ready. The author recommends the following hotels on the route to Naples : U2 HOTELS FROM ROME TO NAPLES. HOTEL PARETE, AT Cisterna, very neatly furnished arid comfortable. An excellent dinner may be had here. HOTEL LA VILLA DI CAPOSELLE, AT Mola di Gaeta, beautifully situated in an orange and lemon-grove near the sea, and very comfortable. HOTEL DE BELLE VUE, AT Capua, where they try to make you comfortable. Upon arriving at Naples, apartments may generally be had at the Maison meublee of Parete, which is large and delightfully situated, immediately opposite the splendid promenade of the riviera di Chiaja and the whole bay of Naples, of which it commands some of the most interesting and beautiful views. In connexion with the bureau at Rome, Messrs. PARETE have an office for letting every description of carriage, both for town or the journey, in the strada Banchinuovo, 15, Chiaja, and the vicolo Carminello, 4, where carriages arc always ready. GIUSEPPE PANDOLFO PARETE, at Koine, is a straight-forward, respectable man; any engagements entered into by him will be punctually ful- filled, he has good horses and carriages, his drivers are civil and di- ligent, and the hotels he frequents are generally the best. Respect- ing the manner the maison PARETE at Naples is conducted, 1 can give no opinion. I cannot help remarking that I was not well pleased with ihe ways of (\\e persons who occasionally appeared at the head of the establishment at Naples, As however all engagements whe- ilier for apartments, horses for a journey, or places in public car- riage, are or should be in writing, this is of no great moment, as of course shuffling is then out of the question. ( Author. ) CHURCH CEREMONIES AT ROME. 95 The best Lirery-Stables at Rome ARE ihose kept by Mr. BROWN, an obliging and well inform- ed Englishman; he lakes in horses at livery, which are attended to in a superior manner; he has also a number of neat saddle-horses to let by the day, week or month. His establishment is at 69, Due Macelli, near the piazza uiSpayna. Mr. BROWN is a very respectable man and gives general salisfaclioii. Horses may he intrusted to his care with confidence, he has resided many years in Rome and is known to all the respectable residents. (Author.) Church ceremonies at Rome. PALM-SUNDAY is the commencement of the Holy Week in Rome; strangers should be at the chapel Sislina, in the Vatican, at nine in the morning, where the Pope blesses the palms, after which the Passion is beautifully chanted. This function represents the entry of our Saviour into Jerusalem. On the Wednesday ol the Holy Week, the Lamentations of Jeremiah and Allegri's Miserere arc sung in the chapel Sislina at the Vatican. To obtain seats, strangers should be there by half past three ; the singing commences at lour. On Thursday in the Holy Week, strangers should be in the chapel Sistina soon after eight in the morning, to sec the Host carried to the chapel Paolina, which is illumina- ted, and has a representation of the Holy Sepulchre; at 94 CHURCH CEREMONIES AT ROME. noon, the benediction takes place, after which the Pope washes the feet of twelve pilgrims, and then waits upon them while they dine. At four o'clock the Lamentations of Jeremiah and the Miserere are sung in the chapel Sistina by the Pope's choir, after which Saint Peler's used to be illuminated by an immense cross, sluddied with lamps and suspended from the cupola; this part of the ceremony has however been discontinued since the death of the Pope Pius VII. On Good Friday, strangers should be at the chapel Sistina at ten o'clock, to see the Host removed by the Pope from the chapel Paolina. At four o'clock the Lamenta- tions of Jeremiah and the Miserere are again sung in the chapel Sislina, and the Arcadia at half past seven in the morning is very good. Jews and Turks receive baptism in the church of San Giovanni in Laterano, at eight o'clock on Sunday morn- ing; there is also fine vocal music in this church, during (he morning. At nine o'clock, the Pope and the cardinals assist at the performance of the Resurrection Service in the chapel Sislina. On Easter-day the Pope enters Saint Peter's in stale, and the Host is elevated. About one o'clock, he leaves the church in stale and ascends to the loggia on the outside and blesses the assembled multitude; the troops kneel, the drums beat, the cannons of St. Angelo fire arid the church-bells are set ringing, while the rich costume of the pontifical court and the splendid equipages of the cardinals and numerous foreigners render the scene extremely magnificent and imposing. The outside of Saint Peler's is illuminated soon alter CHURCH CEREMONIES AT ROME. 3 sunsel with upwards of four thousand lanterns, which have a singular effect, something resembling the light of the moon. At about seven o'clock every part of the church even to the summit of the cross on the cupola, becomes suddenly one blaze of fire and presents a mosl brilliant spectacle. At eight o'clock, a splendid exhibition of fireworks commences at the castle of St. Arigelo by the explosion of the girandola, composed of near five thousand rockets, so placed as to represent an eruption of Vesuvius; and after a variety of beautiful changes, the whole closes with a second girandola of still greater force and of the most magnificent description imaginable. The magnificence displayed at Rome in church ceremo- nies and upon all public occasions is unparalleled. On the 18th of January, the Pope goes in state to Saint Peter's. On the 2d of February, he goes in stale and blesses the candles in the chapel Sistina; Again on Ash-Wednesday, to throw cinders on the heads of the cardinals in the chapel Sislina. On the festival of Corpus Domini, there is a great pro- cession in the piazza di San Pietro, with fine music. The music is repeated for several days in Saint Peter's. On the first Sunday in Advent, the Pope officiates in the chapel Sislina, and on Christmas-day he goes in stale to Santa Maria Maggiorc. On those and many other days in the year the ceremo- nies are attended with much splendour. The carnival at Home begins eight days previous to Ash- Wednesday, it is a period of general festivity; the fronts of the houses in the Corso are adorned with silk hangings, OG ROME. which has a pleasing effect ; the street is enlivened with military bands of music and crowded with masqueraders in carriages and on foot ; the carriages are kept in line by the splendidly equipped horse-guards of the Pope. In the evening, just previous to the close of day, horseraces, si- milar to those at Florence, take place, and at night there are masked balls, which are attended by immense num- bers of people. There are six theatres at Rome, all of which are open during the carnival and at other seasons. On Sundays and Thursdays, during the month of Octo- ber, festivals are celebrated in the Borghese park, or on the Monte Testaccio, which contains the public wine-vaults of Rome; here strangers have an opportunity of seeing groupes of peasants in their national costume, dancing or seated in parties round the tables. The whole population of Rome frequently flock to those festivals which are further enlivened by long lines of gay equipages, filled with the upper ranks of the Romans showily and splen- didly drest. The principal promenades of Rome are : The promenade of the Pincian hill, already named as very magnificent ; The large Garden of the French Academy ; The Garden made by order of Pius VII., near the Colosseum ; The Park of the Villa Borghese ; The road between the Porta I'ia and the Mons Sacer ; and in the city, the Corso. :::: CHAPTER IV. The post-relays from Rome to Naples by the Pontiue Marshes and Terracina Total eipcnse of posting from Rome to Naples The hotels on the route A description of the route from Rome to Naples Hotels at Naples Pro- testant Divine Service at Naples ; charitable institution at Naples English envoy, consul, bankers, merchants, physicians, surgeons, repositories and respectable tradesmen to deal with. Rontc from Rome to Naples. PREVIOUS to leaving Rome for Naples, it is necessary that a certiGcale of good conduct be obtained from the British consular agent, or the parly is subject lo detention at the first Neapolitan station. This regulation however does not apply to officers of the anny or navy; of whatever nation they may be, they are exempt from the fee payable upon the occasion. Post-relays from Rome to Naples. Posts. Rome to Torre di Mezza Via 11/2 Albano 1 Crcnsano 5/4 Vellelri 1 Cisterna 1 Torre Tre Ponli 11/2 Docra di Fiumc 1 Mesa 1 9 08 POSTING FROM ROME TO NAPLES. Ponte Maggiore 1 Terracina (Roman custom-house) 1 Fonili (Neapolitan custom-house) 1 1/2 Ilri Mola di Gaeta Garigliano (the barrier is paid here) Sant' Agata Sparanesi Capua (carriages pay 1 ducat per wheel here) Aversa Naples 11/2 Posts. . . 20 5/4 From Rome to Civita Vecchia is 6 1/1 posts : Foils. Rome to Malgareta 1 1/4 Montcrone 2 Civila Vecchia 3 Posts. . .61/4 Expense of posting. The expense of posting from Rome to Civila Vecchia is : paoli. bajoccbi. fr. c. For one pair of horses. . . . 62 5 .... 55 For fees to the postilions. . . 57 5 .... 21 do do ostlers. 1 5 .... 85 Total in pauls. . 101 5 In francs. ~56 85 Total Expense of Posting from Rome to Naples. For one pair of horses from Rome paoli. bajocchi. fr. c. to Terracina. .... . .107 5 ... 60 20 For fees to the postilions. 64 5 ... 06 12 d do ostlers. 4 1 12 Tolal in pauls *97 47 . . . 176 In francs. HOTELS FROM ROME TO NAPLES. 90 For one pair of horses from Terracina cariini. grani. ft. c. to Maples (Neapolitan tariff). . . 130 . . 56 For fees to the postilions 75 . . 32 30 do d ostlers. . 45 1 94 Total in cariini. . . 209 5 In fr. 90 2i To Terracina, brought down fr. 97 44 Terracina to Maples 90 24 Total. . . fr. 187 68 Hotels from Rome to Naples. HOTEL AT CISTERN A, which is easily reached in one day by voiturier. HOTEL PARETE, LATELY fitted up, clean, and good dinners provided. HOTEL AT TERRACINA. HOTEL DE LA POSTE, DIRTY and dear. HOTEL AT MOLA DI GAETA. HOTEL DELLA VILLA DI CAPOSELE, BEAUTIFULLY situated in an orange and lemon-grove, im- mediately upon the shores of the Mediterranean, and very clean and comfortable. 100 ROUTE FROM ROME TO NAPLES HOTEL AT CAPUA. HOTEL DE BELLE VUE, Tins hotel was being refitted in 18-59, and the proprietor assured the author of this book thai he intended to make il both clean and comfortable; the situation and views from il arc cood. Route from Rome to Naples OVER THE POSTING MARSHES. FROM Rome to Naples there are two carriage -roads : the lower route, over (he 1'ontine marshes, is the one most frequented by travellers; the upper route is through the valleys of the Apennines and by the Via Latiria, but owing to the miserable accommodations on the road, few travel- lers pass this way. In point of scenery it is far superior to the other route, the road is excellent all the way, and there are many objects worth visiting; if the traveller can bear with patience a short time the dirty inns and much other disagreeableness he must encounter by taking this route, he is well repaid by the magnificent scenery, the picturesque and singular appearance of the people and many other objects full of interest. The author and his family pursued the lower route over the Pontine marshes to Naples, and returned to Rome by the upper road, the Via Latina. On leaving Rome for Naples by the former route, the traveller passes out by the church of St. John Lateran and proceeds through the Porla San Giovanni, upon the OVER THE PONT1NE MARSHES. 101 solitary Campagna, where a scene of desolation incelsthe eye in almost every direction. The ruins of the splendid aqueducts and the remains of ancient tombs, which for many thousand years have survived the names of those who erected them ; this scenery is melancholy, though picturesque, and gives evidence of the magnificence of the neighbourhood of the imperial city in her days of prospe- rity : those mementoes of former times are now a heap ol ruins scattered over a deserted plain. The road to Albano joins the Appian way, after leaving the post-station of Torre di Mezza Via, to ascend the hill to Albano. The view from hence is fine, but solemn ; St. 1'eter's and the city of Rome appear to rise in solitary grandeur from the dreary Campagna; on the left is the deep blue Mediterranean and on the right the richly wooded hills, adorned with villas, monasteries and villages, which form altogether a picturesque but melancholy scene. In the neighbourhood of Albano are many interesting objects worth visiting, namely the lake of Albano and its'sfngu- lar subterranean structure, the Camp of Hannibal, Montv Cavo, Castel Gandolfo, and the/focca del Papa. Outside the gate of Albano and in the road is an ancient tomb said to be that of the Cunatif. Hence the road descends into the valley of Aricia. The town of Aricia is most beautifully situated on the brow of a hill, commanding the lovely views of the Mediterranean and environs, which, with the picturesque valley below, forms a landscape of surpassing beauty, and is a favourite resort for land- scape-painters of every country. Near Gcnsano (distant two miles from Aricia) is the tran- quil lake, called the Mirror of Diana, placed in a deep 9. 102 ROUTE FROM ROME TO NAPLES volcanic hollow ; the road leading to it is by an avenue of trees, near the poslhouse. Between Gensano and Vel- li-tri the country becomes less interesting. Vellelri is placed in a commanding situation ; on a hill, opposite to the gate leading to Rome, is a convent which commands some fine views of the town and neighbouring country. A splendid staircase still remains in the now deserted palazzo Lancelotti, and is worth a visit. After passing Vellelri, the road descends to the forest of Cislerna. This forest was the scene, only a few years since, of many of the exploits of the notorious bandit Barbone, who boasted of having in cold blood murdered two priests in one day. One, he said, he had sent to heaven, the other to hell. He is now confined at Terracina with about a dozen others, belonging to the same horde; one of whom made his escape this year, and, being joined by some desperate characters, committed dreadful depre- dations in the neighbourhood of Naples ; but this gang ol banditti were taken prisoners by the Neapolitan guards (the^RSy before the author left Rome for Naples), just as they were on Ihe point of entering the Roman States, whither they were escaping. The town of Cora and its Temple of Hercules are seen between Velletri and Cisterna, on the left of the road, about six miles distant. At Torre Tre Ponti the Pontine marshes commence. In this once pestilential tract of country travellers have but little now to apprehend from the mafaria, so much 'dreaded here in the height of summer; provided they are cautious not to sleep whilst travelling over these marshes, and that they do not travel after sunset. The road conti- nues perfectly straight through an avenue of trees for OVER THE I'O.MINE MARSHES. 103 thirty miles, and were it not ibr ihe continued sameness and ils solitary stillness would in some parls be pretty : a human being is rarely lo be seen, except the sbirri or pontifical police-men, and at the post-stations; and they appear diseased and wretched. This truly solitary spot soon becomes tedious, owing lo the sameness of the road, and makes the arrival at Terracina most welcome. Im- mense droves of buffaloes graze on these marshes, and wild fowl are seen flying in all directions. ; .>*< Terracina Is most beautifully situated on the slope of a sleep hill and overlooking the Mediterranean, amidst orange and lemon groves ; the environs are a continuation of lofty rocks, covered profusely with the palm, orange, lemon and fig-trees. The post-slalion and hotel is pleasanlly placed immediately upon Ihe banks of Ihc Mediterranean, in the suburbs and opposite the old monastery, from which, only a few years since, sonic boys, who were pla- ced there for their education, were forcibly taken away by the brigands; two of them they barbarously murdered and sent their heads lo Terracina, with a threat, that if the ransom they had demanded for the poor boys was not immediately sent, Ihe others should share the same fate; this was paid instantly lo save the lives of the rest. From here also are lo be seen Ihc ruins of Ihe palace, and a picturesque hermitage placed on the side of the rock, ap- parently inaccessible. For-some distance after leaving Terracina, the road continues along the. shores of the 104 ROUTE FROM ROME TO NAPLES Mediterranean ; this portion of the road is thai where travellers were in most danger of being attacked by ban- ditti, and it is only a short time since thai the carabinieri offered Iheir services to travellers as a guard; but little dependence can be placed on an Italian guide or guard; for the moment danger appears, either from banditti, or being overtaken on the mountains by a snow-storm, they invariably run away and leave the traveller to do the best he can for himself. At present the road is so well guarded there is no danger to be apprehended. The road soon quits the shores of the Mediterranean and, leaving on the right the lake of Fondi, traverses the foot of the mountains through a country well Htted for deeds of horror, till it reaches the Torre deW Epitafia, the barrier of the Roman Slates, whore passports are ar- ranged; about half a mile farther is Ihe Torre della Por- fella, the barrier of the kingdom of Naples, where they arc again examined and signed. The miserable town of Fondi is the first in the Neapolitan Stales : here the tra- veller must experience much pain and horror at the rag- ged, half-starved, deformed and truly wretched appearance of the inhabitants of this place, who surround a carriage the moment it slops, and almost force themselves in, if you do not answer their demands for money instantly. They are not very nice, if they can catch an opportunity of cutting off anything attached to the carriage and making free with anything they can lay their hands upon. 1 The pavement of one of the best streets is curious and merits notice. ' The author lost his hat-case here, which unfortunately contained a collar and a valuable diamond broach. OVER THE PONTINE MARSHES. 105 From Fondi the roar] traverses a chain of wild and rug- ged hills to the little town of Ilri, which, although plea- santly situated, is as miserable as Fondi. Hence the road descends to the beautifully situated town of Mola di Gaela. Just before the town is entered, on the right side of the road, is the Cenotaph of Cicero ; it is said to mark the spot where he was assassinated when escaping from the mur- derers sent after him by Anthony. Travellers usually remain here some lime to visit the fortress of Gaela and the island of Ischia, and lo see the foundalions of Cicero's marine Villa, which are clearly disccrnable beneath the bright waters of the Mediterranean. From the Alberyo della villa de' Caposele the route passes through the town of Mola. Among other objects on the coast is a maritime tower which adds lo Ihe beauty of the scenery. Mount Vesuvius is sometimes to be seen from here. Across the marshes of Minturnae (which are reached after leaving Mola) the ruins of along aqueduct are stretch- ed; the ancient ruins of the town of Minturnae may be seen close lo the Garigliano. Travellers now cross Ihe Liris by a handsome suspension-bridge. Hence the route continues through a luxuriant country lo Satil'Agata, near which is the ancient town of Sessa, which is only a short walk from Ihe poslhouse ; Ihose who visil il will be well repaid by Ihe sighl of many interesting Roman re- mains. The country from Sanl'Agala to Capua is picturesque, often displaying fertile valleys from the top of the hills, then, changing the scene, over the flat country of the Campagna Felice, bounded on Ihe lefl by Ihe distant and snowy Apennines. The approach to Capua is handsome, bul Ihe town is 106 NAPLES. dirty and ill-built, and with the exception of some line columns which ornament its Cathedral, it is devoid of any object deserving notice ; two miles from it, on the road lo Naples, are the remains of ancient Capua, which are well worth visiting. From modern Capua to Naples the road presents on each side one continued garden ; the luxuriant vines are festooned from tree to tree nearly the whole way, and owing to the flatness of the country and the height of the trees, no view of the bay or scarcely any of the city is obtained till the traveller reaches it. The road passes through the handsome town of Aversa, which pos- sesses an excellent Lunatic Asylum founded by Mural, called the Maddalena, and where they accommodate five hundred patients, who are treated with gentleness and kindness; this is the last post-station. The road from Capua to Naples is exceedingly heavy at all limes, owing to the looseness of the materials and the great traffick there is upon it. Naples. On reaching Naples, the drive to the Chiaja. where the best hotels are situated, is through long and bustling streets filled with people and differing from every capi- tal in Europe, except Madrid, which at first sight it a good deal resembles. The principal hotels at Naples arc large and hand- some buildings; they are elegantly furnished and vie in point of management with the leading' hotels of London and Paris ; the price of apartments it is im- NAPLES. 107 possible to state. They are generally charged accord- ing to the floor they are upon, and Ihi'ir situation; those commanding the fine views of the bay are gene- rally high. The price of apartments in the hotels, like the private lodgings of Naples, varies with the season : they are seldom cheap, in ordinary seasons only rea- sonable, in full seasons they may be said to be dear; and in extraordinary seasons, such as the winter of 1838 and 1839, the proprietors obtained any price they chose lo ask for them. In fact, during some of the months of that winter, if a family (and it was the case with many) happened to arrive at Naples without having previously secured apartments, they had to wander about the town for hours, 1 and at last considered themselves lucky in obtaining a room or two until va- cancies occurred cither in the hotels or lodging houses. In hotels rooms are let by the week, in lodging-houses by the month. The charges at the principal hotels of Naples are about the same at all seasons. For Breakfast of tea, coffee, bread, huller and piastre, cariini. fresh eggs n 5 Di'jeuner a la fourchelte 6 I (inner 1 a Tea in the evening. . 5 1 This was ihe case with myself and two servants ; we were four hours hefore we procured apartments. At last we obtained four heds, sitting-room, kitchen, elc. as a favour at the Ma' ; son Franyaise, on (he fifth floor, at 25 fr. per day; however doar (his may appear, there was no imposition on the part of the proprietor j for the apartment wa lot hy the month at the same price. (Author.) 108 NAPLES. piastre, rarlini Cup of coffee in the evening l (i do with cream. . 2 Wax-candles (each) 3 Lamp 3 \N'ood, per basket 1 Servants, for 3 repasts 8 Standing for a carriage, per monlh. ... 2 n The man that has charge of them, per monlh (i Standing for a carriage for less than a month, per day 1 Hackney- Coaches. Hackney-coaches are very numerous, they may be hired at all prices; amidst an immense number of very queer ones, there are some very clean and good, with active little horses ; those may be hired at from -2 to 4 carlini per course, according to the distance they go, or by the hour ; the usual charge for the first hour is 4 carlini, and for each hour alter 5 carlini; they are invariably accompanied by one or two little ragged- tailed urchins ( some of them half-naked ) who act as footmen. The little fellows are delighted, if at the end of your hiring, you give them 5or4grani. Custom and tolerance have so much established them in their avocation, that they almost assume them as iheir right; it is no uncommon thing in Maples to see a dashing equipage with 2 or 3 of those little ragamuffins hanging about it ; the servants seldom trouble themselves about them. (Author.) The valets de place are named by the police ; most of them speak English and French; their pay varies according to the time they are engaged for, from 8 car- lini to 1 piaster per day. HOTELS AT NAPLES. 109 Carriages and horses may be had at the hotels, for the town, or for journeys; the price is regulated accord- ing to the season, and for the time they are hired and the work they are required to do. For the town the usual charge is 3 piasters per day; by the month 7i> piasters; when hired by the month two carriages are supplied, a calash for the day and a close carriage for the night : the fee to the coachman is usually 6 piasters per month, and the hiring should be by the calendar month ; this should be well understood at the time the bargain is made. Principal hotels at Naples. HOTEL VITTORIA, Martin, Is beautifully situated, immediately opposite the en- trance to the splendid promenade of the riviera Chiaja, of which and the entire bay of Naples it commands most delightful views. The hotel contains numerous suits of rooms conve- niently arranged for large or small families and single persons; the whole of them handsomely and comfor- tably furnished. Some of the saloons are furnished in a unique and splendid style, particularly the Chinese saloon which contains many objects of great antiquity. The hotel is conducted with great liberality and much to the satisfaction of the inmates. This was undoubtedly the leading hotel at Naples at Ihe lime of the inilior's visit. The rro\vn-prince of Bavaria was residing at this hofH, ITAIV. 10 110 HOTELS AT NAPLES. and the king of Bavaria was daily expected ; it lias generally been pa- tronised by the crowned heads who have visited Naples, and is resort- ed to by the very first class of the British nobility. Families desiring apartments should write some days previously to their arrival. The proprietor of this hotel is a connaisseur in painting and anti- quities, of which he has a large and valuable collection; he is happy to show them to strangers at any time. The Chinese saloon should be seen by all persons who have a taste for those things. (Author.) GRAND HOTEL DELLE CROCELLE, Gothard Melga, Is delightfully situated upon the gentle rise of the Chia- jamonle, a short distance to the left of the celebrated promenade and gardens of the riviera di Chiaja ; from most of the windows of the hotel some of the most splendid views of the beautiful bay of Naples are seen to great advantage. To the left is the threatening Vesuvius and the re- mains of the ill-fated town of Torre del Greco; Portici; the prettily situated town of Caslellamare, which with the Piano of Sorrento and the island of Capri form a panoramic view of the most interesting description. The hotel contains numerous elegantly furnished and very comfortable apartments, conveniently arranged for large or small families, or single persons: it is conducted in a very superior manner by M. MELGA. junior, who assi- duously attends to every department of his extensive establishment. The cleanliness observable in this hotel, with the quiet regularity with which it is conducted, reflects much credit upon M. MELGA. The dinners are excellent and the service of the table of a very superior description. The author and his family resided a considerable HOTELS AT NAPLES. Ill lime in the hotel ; there was not an unoccupied room in it, and yet every department was conducted with the quietness of a private resi- dence. The proprietors have lately gone to a vaste expense in entirely separating the back of the hotel from the tufo rock, which has ren- dered it perfectly free from any dampness. The author recommends this hotel with much confidence. M. Go- THARO MELGA is also proprietor of the Hdtel d'Europe, piazza di Spagna, Rome, which is conducted in the same very creditable man- ner. Both of those hotels are extensively patronised by the very first families of the British nobility, and families of distinction from ail na- tions. For respectability they certainly rank with the leading hotels of London, Paris, etc. (Author.) HOTEL DE LA GRANDE-BRET AGJTE, Horace Bonaccorsi, Is situated in the centre of the most celebrated and splendid promenade in Naples, riciera Chiaja, 276, decidedly the most lively spot in the city. From the windows of the hotel the views are of the loveliest de- scription, comprising the whole bay of Naples in its fullest extent, with the island of Capri and the pictu- resque towns of Sorrento, Castellamare, etc. immediate- ly opposite. Under the windows is (he delightful garden and promenade of the Chiaja. The hotel contains nume- rous suits of handsome apartments, adapted for large or small families, besides a number of very comfortable bed-rooms for single persons. The accommodations are of a superior description, and there is a table d'hote and coffee-room. This is one of the best hotels in Naples; the views from it are beyond description beautiful; it is conducted in the most able and liberal manner by the present proprietor Mr. BONACCORSI, who is I 112 HOTELS AT NAPLES. believe an Englishman ; at any rate, he is a respectable man ami lias the credit of conducting his business much to the satisfaction of the British nobility and gentry, by whom his establishment is greatly pa fronisf d. The late Mrs. Starke was in error in stating that thq-rif/era di Chiaja is bleak in winter; there are few spots in Naples more exposed to the sun during winter, or more shaded from it in summer; it is con- sequently at all seasons a most healthy and desirable residence ; so con vinced was Mrs. Starke of the error she had been led into upon lhi> subject, that she had already prepared an article to correct it in another edition of her work that was preparing for the press at the lime of her death. HOTEL BELLE-VUE Is situated nearly in the centre of the Chiaja, having the splendid promenade of the rlviera di Chiaja and the whole bay of Naples immediately in its front. The windows of the hotel command some of the finest views of the bay and environs of Naples. There are suits of rooms for large or small families and single persons, handsomely and com- fortably furnished ; with lock-up-coach-houses for a number of carriages. The situation of the hotel is the most lively in Naples. HOTEL DE L ESPERA.WCE, Pietro lorio, 123, via della Speranzellu. THIS hotel is situated in the centre of the town ; it contains a number of neat, clean, comfortable apartments; it is very ably conducted by the proprietor. M. IORTO, who speaks English well and is well acquainted with the habits of English travellers. There are lock-up-coach-houses arid slnbling attached to the hotel. NAPLES. 115 'I he table il'tiAle at this hole! is highly spoken of; the charges are very moderate, and the proprietor, M. IORIO, is an active and obliging man; he speaks good English and several other languages. (Author ) Naples APPROACHED from the sea would' no doubt strike every beholder, as being the most captivating city in the world. Us magnificent quay, and long row of really splendid houses, backed by the city sloping down the acclivity of the mountain upon which it is built, a^i reaching to nearly the brink of one of the finest bays in the world, presents a panoramic view of great beauty and unrivalled splendour. Naples is no doubt the most interesting city of Italy after Rome, and its approximation to the ancient and classical cities of Pompeii andHerculaneum on one side, and Poz- zuoli and Baja on the other, with the view of Vesuvius and the enchanting environs of the bay, renders it without ex- ception the most attractive spot it is possible for the imagi- nation to conceive. The entrance to Naples on the landside is not in its favour; the streets are narrow and dirty, the houses are mean and dilapidated, and the entrances to them arc generally adorned with groupes of filthy-looking children clothed in nature's garb, whilst others arc rolling their sunburnt bodies in the middle of the road, or begging by the side of the carriage. Some handsome buildings and good shops are occasionally past in the long drive lo the Cfiiaja and Chiajamonte where the best hotels arc situated. The objects best worth notice in the city are thechurch- 10. 1 14 NAPLES. es. some of which are stately, handsome and beautiful specimens of architecture; most of them are embellished with pictures by esteemed masters, and many of them with rare marbles, agate, jasper, lapis lazuli and mother of pearl. The frescoes on the ceiling are remarkably fine and some of them still in good preservation, whilst others are much injured by time and neglect. The Royal Museum, a vast edifice enriched with a fine collection of antiquities found at Pompeii , Herculaneum, Paeslum,Nuceria,Stabiae, ancient Capua, etc., statues from Rome, antique frescoes, and the collection of paintings re- moved from the palace of Capodimonte. This Museum is said to be the finest in Europe at the present day. Many of the paintings and objects evidently represent the calling of the tradesmen of cities that existed two and three thousand years back ; it is curious to see that with the exception of being more chaste in the make, many articles there in use precisely resemble those of the present day. The apartments are numerous and contain an immense collection of statues, vases, busts, pottery, etc. 'the palace of Capodimonte was commenced building by the orders of Charles 111. ; it was only recently finished by the present king. The palazzo Reale is a large and handsome building; many of the apartments are magnificent and very hand- somely furnished, and adorned with the chefs-d'oeuvre of Raphael, Annibale Carracio, Caravaggio, etc. The por- traits of the viceroys of Naples in the hall are by Massimo and Paolo Matteis. The chapel is handsome; the altar is composed of agate, lapis lazuli, and other precious stones. The citadel of St. Elmo is usually visited by strangers, NAPLES. 115 who obtain an order for that purpose. During the visit they are civilly requested to keep moving. The Albergo dei Poveri is a large and handsome esta- blishment for the reception of orphans and the children of parents who are loo poor to keep them ; a visit to it is extremely interesting, and strangers arc sometimes enter- tained with music by the children. There are several theatres at Naples. The Royal Theatre of San Carlo is splendid. The Royal Theatre del Fondo is also a handsome opera-house ; the others, with the ex- ception of the Theatre of S. Ferdinando, are very small. The theatres at Naples are much frequented by all class- es ; some of the minor ones are opened twice a day. The principal promenade of Naples is the Gardens of the Chiaja, which for beauty of scenery are unrivalled. The Botanical Gardens are also an interesting pro- menade. The promenades of the Villa Reale are to the west of the city. The usual carriage airings are to Capodimonte, by the road constructed by the French ; or toward Pozzuoli by the beautiful road round the bay commenced by Murat and upwards of two miles in length. The drive by the old road leads to the Grotto of Pausi- lippo, a subterranean road of great length and width, which emerges into the bay of Baja. The Grotto del Cane, on the banks of the pestilential lake of Agnano, is sometimes visited from hence for the humane purpose of trying experiments upon a poor doeen opened by a very worthy gentleman, and are attended to by his wife, an accomplished and agreeable lady, who speaks several lan- guages. (Author.') Agents. C. FREEBORN, 47, Calata Santa Catarina, C. Chiaja, agent for the receipt and shipment of works of art, baggage, minerals, etc., which are packed and forwarded with the utmost attention, and at moderate charges. Mr. FREEBORN'S agent in England is Mr. J. F. CHT*:VERY, agent of the custom-house (London), who receives and transmits to the owners (or warehouses them until called for) all packages consigned to his care. Mr. CHINNERY'S offices are in Thames-street, opposite the custom-house. Corals and JP'orks in lava of Vesuvius. THE largest repository for corals and works of art in the lava of Vesuvius is that kept by the widow BOLTEN in the palace Partanna, largo Cappella Fecchia, on the first floor. Here is a very large assortment of jeweller's wares, particularly in corals and in the lava and stones of Vesuvius, always on sale. Visitors to Naples should not fail to visit the repository of Mrs. BOT.TEN; they will have an opportunity of seeing many objects of great curiosity and interest; many of the articles in coral and the stones of Vesuvius are very beautiful. (Author.} English Coach-Maker. THE establishment of Mr. GRIMWOOD (Ihe largest of its kind in Italy) is in the palazzo Partanna, largo Cappella 128 NAPLES. fecchia; his business is upon an extensive scale, he builds and repairs carriages of every description, using English springs and iron. Carriages are got up completely in the London style, either for town-use or travelling. Mr. GIUM- WOOD receives carriages lo repair, for sale or to be taken care of during the absence of travellers; he has always on sale new and second-hand carriages for immediate use ; he is proprietor of the palazzo Esterhazy, 1So, rimera di Chiaja. Mr. GRiMwoonhas also some beautifully situated villas for summer residence in the environs, which are occasionally to be let. Silk- HTa reh ouse. THE most frequented warehouse for silks, shawls, lace, ca- chemires, blonds, ribands, artificial flowers, perfumery, and an immense variety of articles of the latest fashions from London and Paris, is PIERRE CARDON'S, 209, strada di Chiaja. This repository of elegance and fashion in everything lhat relates (o tlie dress and toilet of the ladies is much patronised by the English in general. The show-rooms are very extensive, and Madame CARDON is considered the first dress-maker in Naples. (Author.) Child-bed-linen Warehouse. I'ANNETTE'S, 14, Ascensione Chiaja, palazzo Gnasset, second floor lo Ihe left. Embroidery, child-bed-linen, millinery and dress-making, linen, drapery and a large assortment <>l muslins, cambric, flannels and other French and English manufactured goods. Mr. P\>!VETTE has been a long time established at Naples NAPLES. 129 and is much patronised by the English residents and vi- siters ; he speaks English (his wife is I believe English) and is very civil and obliging. THE old established British warehouse of Mrs. STRO>G, 1, strada Mola, Fontana Medina. Here may be had excellent teas, coffees, spices, English cheese, pickles, sau- ces, and most articles in grocery of a superior descrip- tion. Foreign wines and spirits, liquors, sirops, per- fumery, soaps, Rowland's Kalydor, and Macassar oil. Hardware of every description. Plated ware, glass and earthen ware, ironmongery, stationary, patent medicines, besides a large and useful stock of every necessary article for house-use, a list of which may be had by applying at the warehouse. Mrs. STRONG'S is the oldest established British warehouse in Naples; her business lias been conducted many years with great respectability, and much to the satisfaction of those families who deal with her. Her goods are imported direct from England, and almost every ar- ticle in the lines named herein, is to be bad at her warehouse. Mrs. STRONG has apartments to let on the Chiaja, 118, in a most beautiful situation, opposite the sea, as well as chambers for single gentlemen over her warehouse, which is in the centre of the town, near the theatres and Postoffice. (Author.) Wine- Merchants . THE establishment of C. FREEBORN for the sale of foreign and native wines, spirits, liquors, teas, coffees and every description of grocery, indeed every article for house-use in that line, besides a numerous list of sundries, most of them of British manufacture, is 47, Calata Santa Cata- rina, C. Chiaja.. Mr. FREEBOR* has resided twenty-three years at Naples, ISO NAPLES. and during that lime has been constantly engaged in pre- paring the Lachryms and Falernian wines. He has a perfect knowledge of grapes and the vineyards that produce the best wines on Mount Vesuvius. The author can with confidence recommend all persons desirous of shipping those wines, either by the pipe, half-pipe or in cask, to apply to Mr. FREEBORN, who will guarantee their delivery in England through his agents in a sound arid proper state. Mr. FREEBORP? also packs and ships works of art, baggage, minerals, etc., to England or elsewhere; any business of this nature intrusted to him will have his utmost attention combined with economy. His stock of foreign wines, as well as those of the country, in bottle for immediate use, are of excellent quality. A list of all the articles on sale may be obtained at his warehouse. Mr. FREEBORN conducts his business in a highly respectable manners it is with much confidence I recommend his warehouse to the notice of his compatriots ; they may depend upon having genuine and good articles. (Author.) MESSRS. W. and F. STANFORD, agents to ROWLAND and son of Hatton-Garden in London, wine-merchants, grocers, at ihepalazzo Partanna, 50, largo Cappella Pecclria, have a large stock of foreign and native wines of every descrip- tion, spirits, London porter, ale, liquors, teas, coffees, spices, sugars, soaps, vinegar, a great variety of patent medicines and a very large and newly selected stock of sundry useful and necessary articles for the toilet and house-use, a list of which may be had at the warehouse. Messrs. STANFORD have taken up the business lately car- ried on by Messrs. GRAINDORGES and PITK.IN, and can with confidence recommend their stock which has been selected ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. 131 with much care and attention. They are determined that none but articles of the very best description shall be offered for sale at their establishment. Saddler. MR. FISH, 31, strada Viltoria, English saddler and har- ness-maker. Mr. FISH gets up ladies' and gentlemen's saddles and harness in good style, he has generally a stock by him of his own make ; he has also some handsomely furnished, and well situated apartments to let, that have a fine view of the bay and environs; he is an obliging man, and if written to would keep his apartments or secure others for persons proceeding to Naples. Livery Stables. LORENZO, coachman to the British envoy, takes in horses to stand at livery and attends to them in the English way; his charges are moderate and he is very civil and attentive. Inquire for him of the porter at the British minister's, palazzo Serra Capriola, C, Chiaja. Environs of Naples. TRAVELLERS who are pressed for time can visit the envi- rons of Naples in six days, by taking them in the follow- ing order; those however that can do so should give double that lime to viewing this beautiful neighbourhood; they will be amply gratified. First day : Leave Naples early in the morning, see Her- culaneum and Vesuvius, and sleep at the NEW HOTEL ROYAL, Castellamare (seepage 135), 132 HOTELS IN THE ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. Second day : Leave Castellamare after breakfast, visit Pompeii and proceed to La Cava to dine, and sleep at one of the most excellent hotels recently established there, the HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE ROME, or the HOTEL DE LOIVDRES. Third day : Visit Salerno and Psestum, returning to La Cava to sleep. Fourth day : Go by the new and beautiful road opened last year (1859) to Sorrento. Fifth day : Visit Capri, and go thence tolschia to sleep. Sixth day : Embark for Pozzuolo, touching at any inter- mediate place you please ; at Pozzuolo carriages are al- ways in wailing to convey travellers to Naples, at about a piaster for the course. At Sorrento a boat may be obtained for Capri, Ischia, and thence the next day to Pozzuolo, for 5 piasters per day and a trifle to the chief boatman. (Author.) Hotels In the environs of Naples. HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE ROME and HOTEL DE LONDRES AT LA CAVA; they are both of them beautifully placed, and command frdm every side the most delightful virws of this romantic and interesting spot. The VILLE DE ROME is well and comfortably furnished, its neatness and cleanliness do much credit to the proprietor. The ele- gance and taste however displayed in the furnishing and filling up of the HOTEL DE LONDRES, will strike all who enler it; there is no one article of elegance or comfort HOTELS IN THE ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. 135 wanting, it is far superior to anything of the sort in Italy. The proprietor of these hotels speaks English, and evidently understands how to contribute to the wants and comforts of travellers; he is active and obliging, and attends personally to every department of his business. There are lock-up-coach-houses and good stabling to each hotel. At the author's visit to La Cava a very excellent dinner for five |>< rsons was placed upon the table within twenty minutes after their arrival at the hotel; no previous notice had been given, and the atten- dance and the service of the table was of the most pleasing descrip- tion. The genuine Lackrymce Chr'nti and other wines of excellent quality may be had here. (Author.) NEW HOTEL ROYAL AT CASTELLAMARE, is just opened in a very superior style by BERNARDO CHIESSARA of Verona, a very respecta- ble man, who has had many years' experience in con- ducting hotels. The hotel is beautifully situated at the extremity of the bay of Naples, of which and the city ot Naples immediately opposite, it commands a most splendid view from almost every window ; on the left is the Piano of Sorrento, the island of Capri, the pictu- resque port of Castellamare (which is generally full of shipping), and the immediate environs of the town, crowded with villas of the most beautiful description. Nothing can exceed the delightful views obtained from the reranda of this hotel. The King's Mountain I'alacc and the old Convent of Capuchins are conspicuous objects amongst the many that delight the eye of the observer. Vesuvius too is a conspicuous arid much 12 134 HOTELS IN THE ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. dreaded object, particularly when Ihe traveller has point, ed out to him at the same moment the site of the unfor- tunate Herculaneum, and the mound of ashes that covers the equally ill-fated city of Pornpeii, only two miles dis- tant. Travellers should not fail to visit Castellamare and ascend to tlie veranda of this hotel; they will be much gratified. The hotel is elegantly and comfortably furnished, and, if ihe author may judge from the dinner provided for himself and family, it will be conducted with a liberality well deserving of patronage. 1 am informed that there is now (1810) a railroad in full operation from Naples to Castellamare, and that the distance is accomplished jn an incredibly short lime. ( CHAPTER V. Description of the route from Naples to Rome by the Via Latina Hotels on thi> route ; number of miles; how to travel A description of the route from Rome to Florence by Perugia; hotels on this road Florence to Leghorn; hotels at Leghorn ; English merchants and bankers English Divine Service at Leghorn Agents and respectable tradesmen to deal with. Route from Naples to Rome BY THE VIA LAT1>A. ON leaving Naples for Rome by the Via Latina (the upper route) through San Germano and Frosinone, travellers generally visit the palace at Caserta, which in point of size and architecture, is the most splendid Royal resi- dence now existing. The length of this palace is 805 Eng- lish feet, and its breadth 625 feet. The outside of this edifice is elegantly ornamented with columns of giallo antico; the principal entrance-court, and the grand stair- case are magnificent; the chapel contains a fine painting by Mengs. The palace also contains two theatres. The Royal apartments are spacious and handsome, but not well furnished ; that may be accounted for, owing pro- bably to the palace slill being in an unfinished state. About an hour's drive from the palace is the splendid aqueduct, twenty-seven miles in length; this beautiful structure conveys the water of nine springs from Airola to Caserla, a distance of twelve miles; this celebrated work was erected by Charles V. of Naples, as well 136 ROUTE FROM NAPLES TO ROME as the palace. About a mile from the palace is the silk manufactory of San Lucio. Travellers would be amply repaid by going round by Sta. Maria di Capua (a little more than two miles out of the direct road), in order to visit the amphitheatre on their way to modern Capua. The superb remains of this amphitheatre stand close to the high-road. In the town of Sla. Maria the church of San Francesco and the church called Sta. Maria di Capua merit notice. After leaving modern Capua, on the right is the Via Latina, leading to Calvi and San Germano. At the for- mer are still to be seen some interesting ruins of a tem- ple and amphitheatre, and an old picturesque castle; it has the appearance of once having been a large and popu- lous town. Hence the road is divided into two branches, the left leading to Teano, the right to the Osteria di San Felice, the latter distant about twenty miles from modern Capua. After traversing the district of Mignano through a beau- tiful country and passing through some splendid woods, with the lofty Apennines towering above them, the road reaches San Germano, 1 which is picturesque, and beau- tifully placed at the foot of the mountain on the summit of which the deservedly celebrated Abbey of Monte Casino is placed. The ascent from the town to the Abbey is about three miles, and the views it commands of the surrounding beautiful scenery, together with the town below, its old castle and the ruins of the once splendid ' The hotel at San Germano is the /'ilia Marco farrone, appa- rently clean and good. (Author} BY THE VIA LATI3NA. 137 amphitheatre, form altogether one of the most magnifi- cent panoramas it is possible for imagination to conceive. The church of the Abbey is very beautiful and contains many fine paintings; the high-altar is adorned with pre- cious stones, inlaid with marble, nothing can exceed its splendour and magnificence. The Brothers are very polite to strangers, and appear to feel much pleasure in relating the whole history of the Abbey, arid the many wonderful miracles performed by their patron St. Bene- dict, who wilh his sister Sta. Scolaslica, they tell you, arc buried under the high-altar; they also relate many other marvellous tales. The traveller is most gratified by a visit to this magnificent and very inleresfing mo- nastery, which in some measure reconciles him to the many inconveniences he has afterwards lo encounter on this road, owing to the want of even tolerable inns. After leaving San Germano and about three miles from the hotel of the Meffa, and one mile from the high-road, stands the ancient town of Aquino ; travellers sometimes visit Isola di Sora and Arpino, which are very interesting and about fourteen miles from the inn of the Melfi, which is pleasantly situated on the high-road ten miles from San Germano. From here the road proceeds lo Arce and Ce- prano ; the latter is a frontier town in the Ecclesiastical States. Beyond Arce the high-road to Rome turns to the left, at a place called Fontanelle ; the country to Ceprano is picturesque ; many old castles, and at a distance, the remains of ancient towns present themselves (o the eye of the traveller, singularly placed on the sides of the hills. At Ceprano there are no objects that deserve notice. About twelve miles from this town and through a beautiful country, is the splendidly situated town of Frosinorie, the 12. Io8 ROUTE FROM NAPLES TO ROME ascent (o which is steep. The inhabitants of this place ar6 handsome, and singularly picturesque in their dress and appearance ; the men particularly so, when standing in groupes^, wrapped up in their large cloaks and wearing the conical hat, with their lounging about; the traveller could fancy he had fallen in with a party of banditti. Acropolis is sometimes visited from Frosirione, in order to see the remains of an ancient Pelasgic fortress^ said to be the most perfect hitherto discovered in Italy, and then proceeding to Ferentino, which makes a deviation from the high-road of about seven miles. At Ferentino there are no good inns, but comfortable lodgings can be had at the palace tha't belonged to the Borgia family. The person who occupies it now prides herself on being related to that family, and will provide a good dinner for a parly. Her charges are rather extravagant, but she docs all she can to make you comfortable, at the same time taking great pains to impress on her visitors' minds, that they must not consider her palace, which at one time must have been very splendid, as a public inn, but that she is con- ferring a favour on you by receiving you as her guests. As there are some interesting objects in the town that de- serve notice as well as the surrounding environs, parties who wish to remain, may be very comfortably lodged here, and also much amused by the many interesting anec- dotes of the Borgia family, which this good lady appears to take much pleasure in relating. This town, like too many others in the Pope's domi- nions, has every appearance of extreme poverty and wretchedness. The first part of the road from Ferentino to Valrnonline passes some line ruins of an ancient aqueduct over a barren plain ; on one side there is a fine old UY THE VIA LATINA. 130 nearly in a perfect slate, and which has a bold and pictu- resque appearance from the road. On the near approach to Valmontine, fertile fields, fine woods and splendid ave- nues of forest-trees present themselves to view. The miserable and dirty town of Valmontine is a for- tress situated on an eminence ; as there is nothing worth visiting except an unfinished palace of prince Doria placed in a fine situation, it is not necessary to enter the town ; the high-road to Rome continues on the outside of the walls. The distance from Valmontine to Rome is 2o miles. Hence the road traverses the harnlet of Lugnano through a beautiful country to the village of Colonna. The sce- nery from here to Rome now becomes uninteresting ; that city is entered at the Porta Maggiore. Hotels ON THE ROAD FROM NAPLES TO ROME BY THE VIA LATIJfA. miles. Capua, 19 Belle- Vue. San Germano, 34 No hotel; through the town. ('rprano, 18 Hotel large and handsome outside ; the pro- prielor appears a worthy man and does what he can to please. It is however a miserable place. f'almonte, 37 A dirty and wretched inn outside the town, with a cheating landlord (1839); it was said he was ahoul to be removed. ftome, 25 The Grand hdtel de Russie and the Eu- ropa, both excellent. Smaller establish- ment, Hotel d' Aliening ne, very good* 133 Roman miles. 140 ROUTE FROM ROME TO FLOIIENCE Voiturier-horses, if good, will make this journey in three days, sleeping only two nights upon the road. To go round by Caserta they require an additional day; the traveller has however then time to visit the Abbey of Monle Casino. PA.NDOIFI PARETE, at Rome, generally has carriages going this road; he is a respectable man. Tin-re are no post-relays on this road, except for the diligence in post which carries the letters and passengers from Rome to the Neapolitan frontier, where it ceases. Travellers taking this road should carry provisions with them; wine, eggs, bacon, macaroni and bread being the only things to be obtained. At Ceprano the annoyance to the traveller by the custom-house officers is most disgraceful. If you give a sum tiiat they choose to think too little, they demand more in the most peremptory manner; if you refuse, they insist upon taking every article from the carriage, and then charge porterage for putting them up again. This is another reason that this road is not more frequented by strangers. (Author.) Route fi*oiii Rome to Florence by Perugia. THE route from Rome to Florence through Perugia, by the Via Flaminia, in point of fine scenery, is far superior to that through Sienna; it also gives the traveller an oppor- tunity of visiting the splendid cascade at Terni, and the celebrated lake of Thrasymenus. After passing the Ponte Mollc, the road turns to the right traversing the desolate Campagna ; it reaches Grotto, Rosso, (a Avinc-housc) said to be the same house where Cicero upbraided Antony for wasting so much time in drinking. Near this are the re- mains of a dungeon underground, where slaves were BY PERUGIA. 141 made to work m chains as a punishment for some fault. Hence the road proceeds through Monlerosi, to the beautifully situated town of Civila Castellana. It is said that this town submitted to Camillus in consequence of his just punishment of a schoolmaster, who treacherously decoyed his pupils outside the gates, in order to betray them into the hands of that general who \vas then besie- ging the town; but too noble to lake advantage of such base conduct, he ordered the schoolmaster to be flogged back again into the town by the youths he sought to betray. On leaving this picturesque town, a deep gorge, or ravine, is crossed, by a bridge 280 feet above the stream. The effect of passing over the fearful depths of this ravine, and viewing from behind the dark walls, convents, towers and fortress, excites emotions impossible to describe. After passing the miserable village of Borghetto, which is situated amidst the finest scenery (it is most painful to witness so frequently the wretched and degraded state of those poor people), the Tiber is crossed over a handsome bridge, built by Augustus. The road continues through some splendid scenery to Otricoli, an old town pleasantly placed on a hill, with some towers and convents. Beyond this town a fine view is obtained of Mount Soracle, rising above the Campagna. The route now becomes still more interesting, the scenery as the traveller approaches Narni is magnificent. This town is also situated on a lofty emi- nence, which commands extensive and lovely views of the valley of the Nera. The town itself with its old lowers and walls is highly picturesque ; the best view of it is obtained near the ruins of the colossal bridge of Augustus (which travellers should not omit visiting), consisting of 14-2 ROUTE FROM ROME TO FLORENCE three arches and considered one of the finest specimens of Roman structure. The hills on each side of the river, which are richly wooded, together with the Hermitage of San Casciano rising among the woods, and which is seen through the noble arch that still remains of this once magnificent bridge, are objects of surpassing beauty. Among many other anecdotes, about the wars, they relate of this town, is one singularly horrible. During a siege, rather than surrender, the citizens killed their wives and children to spare their provisions, which being consumed, they killed themselves. {"rom Narni to Terni, about one hour's drive, there is nothing on the road particularly interesting. The town of Terni is clean an.l pretty; it is visited chiefly for the magnificent cascade, situated about four miles from the lown. The first portion of the road passes through some fine olive grounds near the village of Per- pigno, built on a rock in a singular situation; from this village the road ascends the hill, winding round till it at- lains the lop, commanding at every point most magnifi- cent views of the valley of the Nera and the surrounding country. On arriving on the summit of the hill, visiters usually leave their carriage (which drives down into the valley to wait for (hem) and then proceed to the Falls a short dis- tance from the road. The first view obtained of this fine cascade is from the heights above, and is strikingly im- pressive. The immense body of water rushing with frightful violence from its channel into the abyss below, with the tremendous roar of the cataract, and the white spray dashing about in all directions, is terrific and sub- BY PERUGIA. 143 lime. Hence the visitor is conducted by a guide, and al- ways followed by half a dozen or more ragged but useful litlle urchins, who are frequently very intelligent, by a path winding among the tufo rocks, to a small building placed immediately opposite the cascade, and about one hundred feet below the summit, upon a jutting rock overhanging the abyss, into which the water falls below. The roaring and foaming of th,e waters as they pass this place is awfully beautiful. The path continues down into the valley, which is crossed by a bridge; hence it ascends to a small temple, where the three leaps of the cascade are exhibited all together, and here the effect of the sun shining on the water as it rushes down, is beauti- ful beyond description. Returning to the bottom of the valley to view the cataract from below, which is most splendid, and passing some very pretty private grounds, the guide conducts the visitor to the village to rejoin his carriage. It usually occupies from three to four hours to make this excursion, including the drive to the falls. After leaving Tenji, the route passes through a wild but picturesque country to Strettura, and then ascends the mountain of La Somma (where it is necessary to lake oxen); on the other side of the mountain is the ancient town of Spoletq, finely situated on a lofty eminence, with its old towers, castle and forests. The aqueduct is a beautiful structure and said to be one of the most lofty known. The cathedral contains some fine paintings and ancient mosaics. Between Spoleto and Foligno, just beyond the posthouse at Le Vene, is a beautiful little temple of white marble, now a chapel dedicated to San Salvadore. The front of it js towards the plain, aboye the bright and beautiful 144 ROUTE FROM ROME TO FLORENCE little stream of Clitumnus, and where the milk-white cattle were reared, that were kept for sacrifice : it appears that this chapel was formerly used for that purpose, as they show the visiter a place marked by the sanguinary stream of the poor animals; it is placed in a most tranquil and beautiful spot, surely never intended to be the scene of so barbarous a custom. Passing through the lovely vale of Clitumnus, the road enters Foligno, the buildings of which place show some alarming appearances of Ihe earthquake which oc- curred in the year 1831. After leaving this town, Assisi is seen, situated on a hill near the road celebrated for being the birthplace of San Francesco ; it also merits notice on account of its mo- nastery of Franciscan nuns, the church of Santa Maria, once the temple of Minerva, and the church of San Fran- cesco which contains some fine paintings. A short dis- tance from here, on the left, the road passes the beautiful church of Santa Maria degli Anijali, which was destroyed in 1831 by an earthquake, but now (1839) is being rebuilt in all its former splendour. Traversing the hamlet, the road descends into the valley of the Topirio, crosses the Chiasca, and proceeds to the foot of the mountain on which Perugia is situated ; here it is necessary to employ oxen to assist the horses, as this ascent is long and sleep. Perugia Is finely situated; it commands magnificent views of the surrounding valleys; owing to its being placed in so lofty BY PERUGIA. l-f;> a situation, it appears impregnable. Us inhabitants aro said to be the most courageous of the Roman territory. It is certainly the prettiest and cleanest town in the Pope's dominions. The costume of the people is highly pictu- resque, and they appear allogether a more healthy, clean, and happy race of people than in any other town in ihe Ecclesiastical Slates. It contains a handsome Cathedral. The Hotel-de-Ville is a singular specimen of architecture. In the Gambia there is a fine pjclure of the Prophets ami Sibyls, and in it is a portrait of Raphael represented as a handsome boy, as the Prophet Daniel. There are also some other frescoes by Pietro, the master of Raphael. Upon leaving this very interesting (own, the road des- cends the mountain on the other side, traversing the rich and fertile valley of Caina, ascending another steep and long hill to the posthouse at La Magione, thence proceed- ing through some beautiful scenery lo the celebrated lake of Thrasymenus, and passing along ils shores for some distance through Ihe wretched villages of Torricelli and Passignano (the latter rendered famous by the battle of the Thrasymenus gained by Hannibal near this place). The road continues lo Spilonga; 1 hence afler passing Ossaia, said to be the place of burial of the many thousand men slain by Hannibal, it reaches Camuscia, the first village in Tuscany. Six miles from Passignano is the Ponte Sanguinetto, below the village and stream, so called from the many Romans who were sloiri here. The site of the Roman camp and the pass through which it is said 1 At Spilonga is the last cuslom-lionse of (hn Papal Stales, whore passporls are examined and signed. (jiuthor.} ITAIT. 13 140 ROUTE FROM ROME TO FLORENCE Hannibal descended from the heights above, may be seen near here. The traveller, on entering the Stales of Tuscany, must be gratified at the striking contrast between the people in the Tuscan States and those in the dominions of the Pope ; rarely do you sec in the latter (amongst the peasantry) a healthy, happy or smiling face, but on the contrary they appear to be reduced to the last degree of wretchedness by poverty and disease. How different are the Tuscan peasantry, their happy smiling faces! and the clean, com- fortable appearance of the houses and villages show (al- though of the same religion) the truly amiable and mild character of the sovereign by whom they are governed. The ancient town of Cortona, in a fine situation and enriched by forest-trees, is placed on a hill above Camuscia, and has an imposing appearance from the road ; it is sometimes visited by travellers. From the village of Ca- muscia the route continues to the next post-town, Arczzo, through a rich and beautiful country. This is a town of great antiquity, pleasantly situated, well paved, and its buildings are handsome. The cathedral is a fine Gothic edifice, and the churches contain some good paintings. There is a cuslom-house here. The neighbourhood of Arczzo is celebrated for the de- licious wine the Aliatico. Shortly after leaving Arezzo, the road crosses a canal, traversing a rich and beautiful country, passing through some clean and pretty villages, the picturesque costume of whose inhabitants is highly interesting; it enters San Giovanni, a well built and once flourishing town ; here travellers who have a penchant for the horrible, should stop and obtain permission (which for a trifling fee is always granted) to see the body of a man BY PERUGIA. 147 slill in good preservation, that some hundred years since was immured in the walls of the church, then supposed to be a convent; the body remains exactly in the position in which it was found, a few years since, by some workmen who, in repairing the church, had occasion to cut into thai part of the wall; it is in a perfectly upright position in a niche, evidently, from its roughness, hastily prepared for the purpose. The unhappy wretch was without doubt forced in and the aperture immediately walled up; the horrible expres- sion of the open mouth, gasping as it were for breath, shows the agony in which he died, and that haste and violence were used is very plain, for one of the feet is twisted and bent under, showing that force must have been used to place him in the position he stands, time probably not permitting the perpetrators of the horrid deed to be very particular as to the size of the nook cut for their purpose. He is supposed to have been a monk, and there is every appearance of his having been a strong young man of full habit; with the exception of the reality of a human being having suffered so horrible a death, there is nothing offensive in viewing the body, it is per- fectly dry, and, when touched, like leather. About two hours drive from San Giovanni, a road on the right leads to the monastery of Valombrosa, situated about eighteen miles from Florence, on the slopes of the Monte Prato Magno ; parties sometimes visit it from here, but it is mostly visited direct from Florence, where if possible an order for admittance should be obtained, as it sometimes occurs that after the traveller has undergone the fatigue of toiling to the convent, admittance is refused; this, should the prior happen to be absent, is almost sure 148 HOTEL AT PERUGIA. to be the case, unless an order for admittance is pro* duccd. Thence the route approaches the Arrio, amidst scenes of great richness and luxuriance of vegetation, passing along the left bank of the river to Incisa, where the Arno is crossed, continuing through a rich and beautiful valley which is highly cultivated, adorned with pretty villas; this together with the richly wooded hills round Valom- brosa, renders the drive on the approach to Florence by Pontassicve, particularly beautiful ; descending the upper Val d'Arno by a fine road, on the right bank of the river, the traveller reaches the fair and beautiful city of Flo- rence. The post-relays and expenses of posting from Rome to Florence by Perugia are given in chapter III., pag. 62, 63. The hotels on the road from Rome to Florence by Perugia are, at Terni, the Europa; at Perugia, ALBERGO BELLA GRAtf BRETAGNA, Gaehmo Casali, ONCE a magnificent palace, and now containing many splendid apartments, with good and clean beds, and excel- lent attendance, very fair table and moderate charges ; with stabling and safe coach-houses. The proprietor has a large collection of objects of great antiquity, pictures, etc. for sale; he invites an inspection and they are really worth seeing. ROUTE FROM FLORENCE TO LEGHORN. 14'J From Florence to Leghorn is 7 posts as under : Poiti. From Florence to Lastra 1 Ambrogiana 1 Scala 1 Cartel del Bosco 1 Fornacetta 1 Leghorn 2 Posts. The total expense of posting is For one pair of horses including the postilion 96 paoli, or fr. 53 76 Fees to the ostlers. . 3 1 68 99 paoli. fr. 55 44 The road lies on the left bank of the Arno, and abounds in picturesque and beautiful scenery, the rich and luxu- riant Val d'Arno which contains One and well-drest peasantry and good houses. The women and children are chiefly employed in the manufacture of Leghorn hats; they appear contented and happy. At Ambrogiana, a country-residence belonging to the Grand Duke is passed, and at La Scala there is a good road leading to Sienna. The whole road from Florence to Leghorn is excellent and exempt from hills of any consequence; wilh posthorses the journey occupies about nine hours. is. 150 LEGHORN. Principal hotels at Leghorn. HOTEL SAN MARCO, David Thompson, HAS been a good deal frequented by the English, and would have been a great deal more so if a liberal system had been pursued, instead of the almost mean way it is conducted at present; this ought not to be the case, for Mr. THOMPSON'S charges are always considerably higher than those of other hotels of equal respectability in Tus- cany; he is losing his English friends very fast, by this and other strange freaks he takes into his head, etc. Many of the rooms are neat and clean ; but the dinners are really too bad at the price they are charged. Mrs. Thompson is a kind and worthy woman. (Author.) HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE nd TRUE PENSION SUISSE, Anqiola Tommaso and Peter Zibilick, 87, via Ferdmando, near Porta Colonnella and the sea. THIS hotel only requires to be known and it will become much frequented by English families visiting Leghorn. It is conveniently situated, beautifully fitted up, clean and handsomely furnished; the rooms are suits of the most convenient description for large or small families and single persons. This house was formerly the property of a gentleman who expended immense sums of money in fitting up the apartments in a very splendid manner; the HOTELS AT LEGHORN. 151 grand saloon represents the history of Hercules, and the other rooms are of equal magnificence ; the staircase is of marble, and very elegant, and the whole of the bed-rooms, as well as the saloons, are carpeted and furnished with curtains, after the English manner. There is a table d'hdte, and private dinners are served at any hour. There are also stabling and lock-up-coach-houses attached to the hotel. The commissioner of the hotel speaks good English and French, and the charges for apartments and the service of the house will be found extremely reasonable, it being the wish of the proprietors to make their hotel known for its comforts and the moderation of their charges. This hotel is filled up in a style of magnificence seldom seen in Italy; ihe proprietors are very obliging, and will be happy lo show their hotel to strangers, whether they lodge in it or not : it is well worth a visit to view tlie splendid frescoes, and the handsome manner in which the apartments are filled up. (Author.} HOTEL DE I/EUROPE, Antonio Giraldi, Is conveniently situated in the centre of the via Grande, 1224, the most frequented and handsomest street in Leghorn. The hotel contains many clean and very com- fortable suits of apartments for large or small families, besides rooms for single persons. Dinners are served at any hour, and there is a lock-up-coach-house belonging to the hotel. The proprietor speaks English, he is very civil and obliging, and can afford every information relative to the arrival and departure of steam-packets; diligences and carriages for Pisa and Florence are obtained at a few minutes' notice. (Author.") 152 LEGHORN. ROYAL OAK, Via Grande, 1228 and 1229, A particularly clean and very comfortable hotel, is very conveniently situated in the principal street of Leghorn. The landlady of this hotel speaks English, and her house is conducted in a way that gives much satisfaction. The apartments arc numerous, and fitted up in the English style; many of the sitting-rooms are furnished with English grates and carpeted throughout. This hotel is extremely neat and clean, the apartments are large and handsomely furnished ; it is highly spoken of as a well regulated and very respectable house. (Author.') Leghorn. Few travellers omit to visit Leghorn; it is a large, clean town, with one particularly long, broad and handsome street, leading to the Dock and Harbour, which are ge- nerally full of shipping. Some of the other streets are good, but do not contain such handsome shops and are not so bustling as the one alluded to above, the via Grande. The shops of Leghorn are famous for the dis- play they make in works of coral and alabaster. The repository of Messrs. MICALI is justly celebrated all over the world, some of their works are really magnificent. The Turk repository loo is also superb. The Protestant burial ground should be visited, it is kept in admirable order: some of the monuments are costly and well exe- cuted ; they are chiefly in Carrara marble, and most of them record the sympathy of the friends of the departed. LEGHOUN. 153 Among others, those of Smollet arid Edward Horner are looked upon with interest. In the Docks there is a statue of Ferdinand I. with four slaves crouching round the pedestal, in hronze; it is the production of G. di Bologna. The repositories of oil are worth a visit, as is the Laza- retto, a short distance from the town, by the seaside; this road is the chief promenade, and very pleasant as it commands a fine sea view, as well as of the Harbour, which is one of the most extensive in the Mediterranean. The Mole extends a mile and a half into the sea. At one time Leghorn was celebrated for its extensive commerce, and its merchants made a greater display of wealth than many of the nobility of the State; at present, although still a bustling place, its commerce has much fallen off, and there is not that appearance of riches there was only a few years since. There are a great number of English residents at Leghorn ; they are now building a very substantial and neat chapel adjoining the burial- ground. At present Protestant Divine Service according to the forms of the Church of England is solemnized in a room fitted up for the purpose in San Marco, by a very efficient clergyman. The expense of the Church Service is paid by the English residents, who liberally throw open the doors to strangers, without expecting them to contribute towards the expenses. 1 Theofficiating minister, in 1859, was the Rev. J. HARVEY, via del Cor so. ' I was informed that it was the case, and would continue to be t when the new church is finished. (Author.) 154 LEGHORN. English Consul. THE residence of the English consul, Mr. JOHN FALCONER, is u!6, San Marco. The vice-consul is Mr. DAVID MADDOCK, 816, San Marco. British mercantile Establishments. Bin. WILLIAM MACBEAN and Co., E56o, via Borra, are highly respectable and very old established Merchants, Bankers, and Commission Agents; as are : MESSRS. JOSEPH SANDIFORD and Co. No. 586, via Borra. BELL, DE YOUGH and Co. . . 499, San Marco. BROWN and SHAW 59 4, via Borra. ROUTH and GARLAND. . . . 498, San Marco. STUBBS and Co 516, San Marco. J. W. WEBB and Co. ... 573, via del Monte Vecchio. H. G. GOWER and Co. . . . 584, via del Corso. GEANxandCo 350, via del Corso. Agents for the shipment of works of art. MESSRS. WILLIAM MACBEAN and Co. . 565, via Borra. STCBBS and Co 516, San Marco. MR. GCSTAVCS ADOLPHUS PRINOTH, shipping and commission- agent, 573, via del Monte Pecchio, receives and ships works of art, baggage and other goods for England or any part of Europe. He also receives and warehouses goods at moderate charges ; his correspondents in England are Messrs. FRANCIS and Co., successors to Messrs. BINGHAM, RICHARDS and Co. LEGHORN. 155 Repositories. THE most magnificent repository of objects of the One arts, perhaps in the world, is that of HYACINTHE MICALI and sons, 1250, via Grande. The finish of their works of sculpture in alabaster and Carrara marble, is inimitable. Messrs. MICALI'S establishment has been celebrated for many years; it is upon a most extensive scale; they are extremely obliging and are happy to receive the visits of travellers, whether they purchase or not. There is hardly a court in Europe but has been supplied with some object from this very old depot. Messrs. MICALI undertake to pack and forward any purchases made of them, so that they ensure their safe delivery to any part of Europe or America. (Author.} THE Turk repository, rue St. Francois, 1184, is one of the most splendid things of this sort in Italy. It is a bazar upon a grand scale : here are deposited for sale, the ma- nufactures of England, the Indies and France of the most costly description; shawls of Turkey, Persia and India; silks worked in gold of the most beautiful texture; porce- lains, hardware and ancient articles of value and exquisite workmanship, from China and other countries. It is impossible to convey an idea of the numerous costly and splendid arlitlcs that are exhibited for sale at this repository. Stran- gers are invited to inspect them ; they will be much gratified by doing so ; ihere are many articles of great curiosity in this costly stock. (Author.} THE dep6t for works in marble and alabaster by JOSEPH BENASSAI, is on Ihe ground-Door of THOMPSON'S hotel, San Marco. M. BEXASSAI lakes busts and executes works in marble and alabaster; he is a man of great talent in his profession and much celebrated for his likenesses; he has 156 LEGHORN. always on sale works of art executed by himself, which he is happy lo exhibit to strangers, who cannot fail to be much gratified by a visit to his studio. British Warehouses. MR. HENRY DUNN, 1228, via Grande. The old established English warehouse of Mr. HENRY DUNN is in the centre of the via Grande. Here an immense variety of goods of a superior description are constantly on sale, consisting of wines, spirits, leas, groceries, manufactured goods, fancy articles, etc. Mr. DUNN has also for sale a large collection of pictures by cele- brated artists; some of them highly valuable; a very splendid ebony press, which although of great antiquity, is in an excellent state of preservation; these and a number of articles of curiosity may be seen by applying at tbe warehou>e. Mr. DUNN is a very old inhabitant of Leghorn ; he is highly respectable and extremely kind ami obliging lo strangers. (Author.) THOMAS DICKIE, '596, via Borra, warehouse for linen, flan- nel, hosiery, shawls, silks, handkerchiefs, gloves, men's best London hats; teas, stationary and a great variety of English articles. Mr. DICKIE has also some fine old Port and Sherry wines, and good spirits on sale, as well as a few old paintings. HENRY FISHER, 519, San Marco, wine and spirit-merchant and dealer in teas and groceries, patent medicines, fine Havannah segars, Rowland's Macassar oil, and a great variety of articles for the toilet, etc. Mr. FISHER has also an extensive stock of fine London porter, ale and brown stout. LEGHORN. 157 THE British warehouse of JOSEPH GUANO is 92, via Grande. Here a great variety of wines, spirits, leas, groceries ; ma- nufactured goods, Christy's London hats, a large assort- ment of fancy articles, stationary, etc. may always be ob- tained of a very superior description. Mr. GUA> T O is a general commission-agent; he receives and forwards goods and baggage to any part of Europe at moderate charges; he also warehouses goods that may be addressed to his care from England or elsewhere. The Jews' Synagogue is one of the largest and finest in Europe; to see it and the forms of the religious worship to advantage, it should be visited on a Saturday evening. The other objects worth notice at Leghorn, are the Church of the Greeks, the Duomo, the Coral Manufacture, the Opera-House, and the Aqueduct, which conveys water to the city from the mountains of Colognole, distance of twelve miles. The populalion of Leghorn is said to amount at present to upwards of 70,000, a motley crowd of all nations, in- cluding about 50,000 Jews ; the variety of costumes fre- quently to be seen in the principal street, presents a pic- ture equally singular arid pleasing. CHAPTER VI. Route and distance from Leghorn to Pisa Pisa ; hotels, bankers, and British warehouses; climate; physicians Pisa to Lucca ; hotels at Lucca ; liotcls and boarding-houses at the Baths Lucca to Genoa ; hotels at Genoa ; Genoa Genoa to Turin, Milan, Lecco, Varenna, and journey over the Splugen to Zurich and Bale, with the names of the best hotels on this route. Route from Leghorn to Pisa. Two posls from Leghorn, on a level road, is the prettily situated town of Pisa, which contains many objects of much interest. The Campanile or Leaning Tower, the Duomo, and Baptistery, deserve particular notice, and certainly the most interesting of all is the Campo Santo, the "walls of which are painted in fresco, by some of the most distin- guished painters of the fourteenth century. In the centre of this beautiful edifice is a place of sacred burial, the earth of which is said to have been brought from Jerusalem by ships of Pisa. Round the enclosures are cloisters, under which are arranged many hundred marble tombs, containing the ashes of the noble, the learn ed and the great. The Campanile, or as it is now invariably called, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, is the principal attraction of pass- ing travellers; it is 190 feet in height, and the upper gal- lery overhangs the base full fifteen feel. This singularly PISA. 159 handsome structure consists of eight stories, adorned with 209 marble columns. It has been the received opinion for a great number of years, that this tower was originally straight, and many very absurd opinions have been given as to the cause of its leaning ; it was not however until last year (1839), that it was ascertained to a certainty, that it was a freak of the architect purposely to build it in the stale it now stands. In April last year (1839) the earth was removed from around the entire foundation, which from the first layer of stones to the base of the column, was found perfectly upright ; thence the leaning was evidently intentionally commenced, and no doubt carried up as it now appears, as far as the architect dare go, which was very probably to the seventh story; the eighth story being added in after-times, when the edifice had become perfectly dry and able to bear additional weight, and by another freak of the architect, this story was built straight. It is however strange that in the ancient records, which show that the building was commenced in 1174, no mention is made of its leaning. The representation of the tower in the Campo Santo, where in an event of the life of San Ranieri it is painted in fresco, (landing upright, is no criterion to judge by, as that painting may have been taken from the original design of the architect ; indeed it is most likely it was so, for it will be observed that it is there repre- sented as having seven stories only. When the author visited Pisa in 1839, a portion of the earth had been replaced ; there was however still sufficient of the foundation visible to enable him to corroborate the above statement, which he received from a respectable individual who was present when the foundation was laid entirely open. (Author.) The churches of Pisa are numerous ; many of them me- rit particular notice, as containing paintings by old Tuscan masters. The palaces and hospitals are spacious and handsome buildings. The baths, situated rather more than three miles north 160 PISA. of Pisa, have the reputation of being very beneficial in diseases of the liver and for the gout. Near these baths some remains of the ancient aqueduct of Caldacolli may still be seen. The modern aqueduct is a magnificent structure; it conveys the best water to be found in the city from the village of Asciano, a distance of four miles. The Casino or Royal farm, a short drive from Pisa, is generally visited by travellers to see the camels, which breed here, and are employed in carrying wood, etc. into the town. The climate of Pisa is, from its extreme mildness, con- sidered the finest in Europe during winter, and many invalids take up their residence there; at other seasons it is not quite so healthy. In the approaching winter, Dr. SAENDERS, a gentleman who has been studying a con- siderable time in the Italian school of medicine at Bologna, takes up his residence at Pisa as English physician. Banker. THE only banking establishment at Pisa is that of FERDI- NAND PEVERADA, which is conducted at the Hdtel du Hus- sard, and at the Baths of Lucca during the season. Si- gner PEVERADA is agent at Pisa for all the principal banking-houses in Europe ; he is also commission-agent, and receives works of art, baggage and other property to be forwarded to England, all parts of Europe and the United Slates of America. For advice in any case, stran- gers cannot do better than apply to signer PEVERADA; they will find him exceedingly kind and obliging. PISA. 1G1 Hotels at Pisa. GRAND HOTEL ROYAL DU HUSSARD, (the Royal Hussar Hotel) Ferdinand Peverada, Is already known to all acquainted with Pisa, as one of the most comfortable and best hotels in Italy; it is a very extensive establishment and contains suits of large and small apartments for families, besides many chambers for single persons, all of them very neatly furnished, with all requisite English comforts. The highly respectable way in which this hotel has been conducted by signor PEVERADA for many years, has gained him the esteem of all persons who have sojourned at his house, and strangers will not fail to find in his hotel all that they can desire, at fair and moderate charges. There is a lock-up-coach-house attached to the hotel and livery stables close at hand. Carriages for travelling or the promenade can be had at a few mi- nutes' notice. Signor PEVERADA has just taken the palazzo Lenzi, immediately opposite the marble bridge on the Lung' Arno, the best and warmest situation in Pisa ; he is now repairing and refurnishing it in a splendid way, to let it by the month or year : on each Door will be found con- veniences of every description, including kitchen, etc. etc.; it will be let as a private residence, each door being per- fectly separate. HOTEL DBS TROIS DONZELLES, (the Three Young Gentlewomen) Is pleasantly situated on the side of the quay called the Partedi Mezzo Giorno, or as the English would say, the 14. 162 PISA. sunny side of the Arno, near the ponte Seraglio. The po- sition of the hotel is much in its favour, and it contains many very good and \vell furnished apartments. The proprietor assured the author of this book that travellers would find everything they could desire at his house, cleanliness, good and well cooked dinners and other meals, and respectful attention on the part of the servants. There are good stabling and coach-houses, and the char- ges are reasonable. English Warehouse. THE English store of JOSEPH CORDON is in the Lung' Arno, near the ponte Seraglio; here may be had groceries of every description : drugs, dried fruits, wines, spirits, beer, pickles, sauces, mustard, salmon, patent medicines, per- fumery, stationary, wax candles, prepared soaps, blacking mercery, at moderate fixed prices. Mr. CORDON has been many years established at Pisa, he is in general patronised by the English; almost every arti- cle he deals in, is imported direct, and will be found of excellent quality; he is agent for Messrs. ROWLAND and son of Halton-Garden at London ; their articles may be had of him genuine. He is happy to furnish strangers with a list of lodging-houses, and to give any other infor- mation in his power. Mr. CORDON has an establishment at the Baths of Lucca, at which place the whole of the articles enumerated and a great variety of others are to be had. Galignani's Messenger may be had of Mr. CORDON, who keeps a list of arrivals at Pisa and the Baths of Lucca, which may be seen by applying to him. HOTELS AT LUCCA. 165 Route from Pisa to Lucca. LEAVING Pisa, which is 2 '/ posts from Lucca, the road traverses a plain, passing the Baths of San Giuliano, and entering a narrow but pretty valley, it proceeds across the rich and fertile plains of Lucca, until it enters the town, which contains good inns. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, Pietro and Gustavo Pagnini, Is situated in a small square, as the town is entered from the Pisa road; it is a large hotel and contains many handsome, well furnished, and very comfortable apart- ments, consisting of private sitting-rooms with bed-rooms contiguous, so as to be extremely convenient for the oc- cupation of large or small families, besides many chambers for single persons. The hotel is conducted in a very able manner by GBSTAVO PAGHIHI, the nephew and partner of PIETRO PAGNINI. who generally resides at and conducts the hotels of the Baths of Lucca. There is safe standing for carriages and lock-up-coach-houses at the hotel. The dinners at this hotel are very good and well cooked. The ser- vice of the tahle is extremely neat; in fact, the hotel is altogether conducted in a superior manner by signer GUSTAVO PxcNiNr, who is an attentive and very civil young man. Carriages may be had at the hotel for the Baths or for airings. The drive round the ramparts is parti- cularly interesting. (Author.) GRAND HOTEL ROYAL DU PELICAN, Dominico Orlando, Is the first hotel entering the town either from Florence or the Baths of Lucca. It is a large establishment and con- 104 LUCCA. lains many suits of handsome apartments, furnished in a very superior manner, with every English comfort; the rooms are carpeted in the winter, and so arranged as to be convenient for large or small families or single persons ; the Strangers' Arrival Book shows that all the distinguished families and other persons who have patronised the hotel are much satisfied with the accommodations they find and the fare and attention they receive. There are good sta- bling and lock-up-coach-houses. This hotel has all the appearance of being a highly respectable and very comfortable house, and the proprietor a respectable and obli- ging man. (Author.) Lucca Is delightfully situated, in a rich and fertile country; it is a very clean town, and its inhabitants appear industrious and wealthy. It contains a Cathedral and several Churches well deserving of notice, and a small theatre contiguous to the palace of the Grand Duke. The ramparts are exceedingly pretty, and command some fine views of the surrounding beautiful country and the superb aqueduct erected by order of the infanta Maria Luigia who died in 1824. About twelve miles from the town are the celebrated Baths of Lucca, romantically and most beautifully situated on the side of a picturesque mountain, richly shaded with chesnut woods. The drive to the Baths up the valley of the Serchio, amidst forests of olives interspersed with beautiful almond and chcsnut-trees, and adorned with villas and several HOTELS AT THE BATHS OF LUCCA. 165 monasteries, peeping out occasionally from the opening of the forest, is lovely beyond description. On the route to these Baths a beautiful Royal villa is passed, as well as three very remarkable bridges to the left of the road. The hotels at the Baths of Lucca are : HOTELS DE I/EUROPE, Pictro Pagninij of Lucca. THESE old established hotels are beautifully placed by the side of the river and near the most interesting prome- nades; here boarders are received for any time exceeding a week, at a moderate charge, including apartments, or otherwise as may be agreed ; the hotels are particularly neat, clean and very handsomely and comfortably fur- nished, and to judge by the many compliments that are paid to signor PAGNINI by the numerous persons of distinc- tion and others who have patronised these establishments, they must be conducted in a very superior manner. There is large and excellent stabling, and lock-up-coach-houses appertaining to the hotels. Signer PIETRO PACNINI, the proprietor of these hotels, is an obliging and agreeable man ; he not only speaks English fluently, but he un- derstands and attends himself to the comforts of English travellers ; his kitchen department is excellent. (Author.) GRAND HOTEL ROYAL DU PELICAN, Dominica Orlando, Is pleasantly situated near the now gay village, not far from the banks of the Lima. The hotel has been recently repaired, and newly and very neatly furnished with every 166 HOTELS AT THE BATHS OF LUCCA. necessary convenience. It contains many suitable apart- ments for large or small families and numerous chambers for single persons. Families or single persons intending to remain over a week, are received as boarders at a fixed charge, including apartments or otherwise, as may be agreed upon. The dinners and other meals are upon the same liberal scale as at the Pelican at Lucca, and the hotel is conduct- ed in the same able manner. I think the proprietor of this holel (and of the Pelican at Lucca) speaks English ; at any rale, he is an active and very civil man, and the neat and clean state in which his really very comfortable hotels are kept and conducted, gives him great credit. (Author.) AU PAVILLON ROYAL, /. Gregory. THE boarding-house au Pavilion Royal, near the town, at the Balhs of Lucca, is placed in a charming position, upon a gentle slope, surrounded by trees and evergreens of surpassing beauty. It is near the Ducal palace, the Bagni caldi and the most pleasing and picturesque pro- menades. The establishment is large and contains many handsome apartments, consisting of private sitting-rooms with bed-rooms for families and single persons, all of them commodiously and neatly furnished; the kitchen- department is particularly attended to and the tastes of the different inmates are considered. The service of the table d'hote as well as the private service (when desired ) well be found to give satisfaction. There is safe stand- ing for carriages and good stabling. The proprietor of this really very neat and well conducted esta- blishment, I. GREGORY, is extremely obliging and very active; he and BATHS OF LUCCA. 167 his family attend themselves to the comfort of the great number of respectable families and single persons who patronise them; there is an excellent piano in (he house, which the author lakes upon himself to recommend. Author.} -K5W*- Baths of Lucca. THE reputation of the Baths of Lucca, the cool and delight- ful climate, the picturesque situation of many of the villas, and the elevated and very beautiful drives in the neigh- bourhood, has changed a secluded village into a gay and now much frequented public place. Here during the summer ;ire to be found the gay, the thoughtless, and the happy in search of recreation; the unhappy and the en- nuyes (anywhere) for change of scene, the invalid in search of that greatest of blessings, health; young ladies of a certain age seeking for husbands; the eminent banker following wealth; the talented physician and surgeon in search of patients, and the respectable shopkeepers from Florence and Rome, to vend their wares. It is a gay and pleasing scene, and albeit there is much good sense in this order of things, money is made to go, and here all classes spend it freely and cheerfully. How much more creditable are the innocent amusements of this place, compared to those of the thronged and pernicious saloons of Baden-Baden and Wiesbaden! here happy and smiling faces are met at every turn; there every chair ant) corner present woeful and distorted countenances, and the season ends generally with threadbare purses, if not more tragically. 168 MASSA, CARRARA. Route from Lucca to Genoa. THERE is now a good road from Lucca to Genoa, traversing the most lofly part of the Apennines, commanding some splendid views of sublime scenery, particularly the passage of the Bracco-, from the highest point of which some most magnificent views are obtained of the deep blue Mediter- ranean. From Lucca the road proceeds through a fertile country to the town of Pielra Santa ; two miles distant from which is the silver mine of Val di Castello, which is sometimes visited by travellers. There is a good road to it on the Genoa side. The route hence continues through a pretty and level country to Massa. This town is pleasantly situated near the sea; it con- tains a Royal palace, besides some other handsome edifi- ces ; immediately behind Massa, on a hill overhanging the town, is an ancient castle which, together with the sur- rounding scenery, gives it a picturesque and beautiful ap- pearance. The post-road now continues through Carrara, long ce- lebrated for its marble quarries ; although hilly, it is good. Travellers formerly pursued a lower route, between Massa and Lavenza, which is so rough, owing to the quantity of large stones strewed about, and some portion of the road even in summer so wet and swampy, that it is better avoided altogether. After leaving Massa the river Frigido is crossed by a handsome bridge ; thence the route passes through Lavenza to Carrara. At the former place there is a remarkably line old picturesque castle situated near the high-road, ROUTE FROM LUCCA TO GENOA. 169 and which from the appearance of its deep moat, towers and battlements, must in former ages have been of great strength. The little clean and neat town of Carrara is placed in a nook in the mountains; most of the houses are built of marble brought from the celebrated marble quarries in its immediate neighbourhood ; it contains a Cathedral, and an Academy of sculpture, said to have been established by the Princess Elisa, the former sovereign. The quarries are at the distance of a mile from the town ; the road to them is very bad. The drive from Carrara is very beautiful, the country luxuriant and finely cultivated. Sarzana, the next post to Lavenza, is a clean and hand- some town : it contains a handsome church built in the Gothic style ; the remains of an amphithealre and harbour, which merit notice. After leaving Sarzana the river Magra is crossed by a pont-colant. If it were possible to erect a bridge here, it would add much to the safely as well as convenience of the traveller, as the passage of this river is often very dan- gerous, from the violence of its torrent. From here the scenery becomes wild and picturesque; the ruins of old castles perched on some of the hills above, villages placed on the summit of others, add greatly to the interest of the beautiful scenes between Sarzana and Spezzia ; Ihe route then ascends an eminence, through this luxuriant country, from the summit of which the splendid and beautiful gulf of Spezzia is presented to the view of the traveller. The road then descends gradually to the sea, and passing along its shores, a short distance, through an avenue of trees, it outers the beautifully situa- 15 170 ROUTE FROM LUCCA TO GENOA. led town of La Spezzia ;' here the orange and lemon-trees appear to flourish luxuriantly. Soon after leaving (his town the road winds up a mountain, passing through some fine olive grounds; on reaching the summit, another magnificent view of the gulf of Spezzia and the 3Iediler- ranean is obtained. After crossing this mountain the road gradually descends to the miserable village of Bor- ghello, 2 the commencement of the ascent of the Bracco. This passage of the Bracco is one of the most lofty summits of the Apennines : there is now a fine road by means of galleries, hewn out of the sides of marble rocks; it is unfortunate they did not make the road wider; for these galleries lie at the brink of fearful precipices, and many parts of this passage are exposed to sudden and violent gusls of wind, and would in stormy weather be dangerous, as this part of the road is unshel- tered. From Borghelto the ascent is continual, amidst fine 1 The hotels here are: the GRAND HOTEL ROYA.L DE L'UNIVERS, and the HOTEL DE i \ CHOIX DB MALTE. The GRAM> HOTEL ROYAL DE I/UNIVERS (Giuseppe Ciampolin' 1 , pro- prietor) is situated in the principal thoroughfare at Spezzia; it is a well furnished and comfortable house ; most of the bedsteads are of iron. The hotel contains large and small apartments, besides many neat chambers for single persons. The service of the table at this house is very good, and there is safe standing for carriages ami good stabling. Carriages and horses may be had for airings or for journeys. This is apparently a good hotel, the proprietor is extremely civil and atten- tive, he is also proprietor of the HOTEL UK L\ BULB Enaors, which is described further on. (Author,) Travellers should not think of slopping here ; the only house of reception is miserably dirty, exorbitantly dear, and the master and tervants are very insolent. SESTR1. 171 hold scenery, passing the litlle hamlet of Malarana (ahout seven miles from Borghello); the road gradually ascends to the highest point, three miles farther, at the edge of a tremendous precipice overhanging the Mediterranean : here, if the traveller can divest his mind from all nervous feelings on reaching so elevated and unsheltered a point, and look down on the bright hlue waters of the Mediler* ranean, he is well repaid for any apprehension or fatigue encountered on this passage by the magnificent view of the sea below. Hence the road descends for seven or eight miles to Seslri ;' the approach to ihe town is most beautiful ; but the road leaves it on the left ; passing through a rich valley close to the shore, hedged with rows of aloes, it reaches the handsome town of Chiavari, situated some litlle distance from the sea. Here nature appears to have bestowed her choicest gifts; the beautiful silver olive, the orange, lemon, arbute and prickly pear grow luxuriantly. This spot, like many others on the shores of the Mediter- ranean, is most lovely. 1 The GRAND HOTEL DE t* BELLE EUROPE of Giuf. Ciampolini, is splen- didly situated upon the shore of the Mediterranean, of which and the extremely picturesque environs of the pretty town of Sestri it com- mand* some remarkably fine views. The entrance to the hotel from the ftue Hoi/ale is adorned with an avenue of orange-trees. The hotel contains large, clean and well furnished rooms. The service of the table is very good and liberal, and the hotel is altogether well con- ducted. There is excellent stabling, and safe standing for any number of carriages. Fish may be had in perfection at this house, which is altogether extremely comfortable; the proprietor is a liberal man and deserves encouragement: the position of tbe hotel is superb. 'Author.'; 172 HOTELS AT GENOA. From this town the ascent commences over another branch of the Apennines, riot so lofty as the Bracco ; but like that passage, it would be all the better for some para- pet-walls, as the road is hewn out of marble rocks on the brink of a precipice which overhangs the sea on one side, crowned by mountains richly covered with olive grounds and vineyards ; below which immediately on the shore, are occasionally to be seen clean and pretty villages, inter- sected by villas and convents. The galleries of this passage contain three grottoes ; the two first are near together, cut through a rock of beautiful marble; after descending amidst some lovely scenes, passing the village of Rapallo, 1 the ascent again commen- ces to the third grotto, from which the whole line of coast and the beautiful city of Genoa is exhibited at the termi- nation of this grotto ; which forms the most singular and lovely view it is possible for the imagination to conceive. The village of Ruta is entered by the grotto, whence the road gradually descends to Genoa : bordered on both sides by orange groves, olive plantations and handsome villas, and overlooking the vast expanse of the Mediter- ranean nearly the greater part of the way. Here L'HOTEL DE LA CROIX DE MALTE, NEAR the Mole, is an excellent inn. It contains numerous 1 At Rapallo the HOTEL DE T.A POSTE, kept by Pielro Joriani, imme- diately after crossing the bridge, will be found the best house. There are some good chambers and the charges are reasonable; there are also good stabling and coach-houses; hence to Genoa is a beautiful drive of twenty miles. HOTELS AT GENOA. 173 suits of well famished and very comfortable apartments and many chambers for single persons. The table d'hdte and private dinners are very liberally supplied, and the service of the table is of a superior description. There is extensive and safe standing for carriages and good stabling. This hotel stands very high in the estimation of travellers. The proprietors are respectable men. (Author.) L HOTEL DE LONDRES, Gaetano Pinello JKotondo, HAS been known for a very long time as a respectable and very comfortable house; it is much patronised by English travellers. The situation of the hotel is most interesting, overlooking the port, with the whole of the shipping in the harbour immediately opposite and an open and extensive sea; the views are of the most splendid description from almost every window. To the many highly flattering remarks made by travellers generally in the Strangers' Book of this hotel, the author has much pleasure in adding his testimony : it is truly a comfortable house and conducted in a manner that leaves nothing to be desired. The dinners are ex- cellent, and the servants are quiel, very civil and obliging. (Author.) Travellers should avoid IL NUOVO ALBERGO D'lTALIA, LATELY opened at Genoa. The keeper of it is a very shuf- fling fellow and his charges are exorbitant; he is con- nected with the vetlurinf, who do all they can to take passengers to the house. 15. 174 PALACES AND CIlURCHES Genoa MAY justly be termed a city of palaces, from the magnifi- cence of its buildings and many of its principal streets, containing superb buildings, splendidly adorned with noble entrances, handsome staircases, and marble floors ; most of them contain some good paintings. The most magni- ficent streets are the strada Nnova, strada Balbi and strada Nuovissima, The public buildings, bridges, churches and palaces, are all constructed with marble. This city, called Genova (a Superba, from the splendour of its palaces, is seen to the best advantage from the sea. It is now (1839) being further adorned by the erection of handsome ramparts which are intended to form a prome- nade and carriage-drive to a considerable extent round the bay, of which and the shipping they will command a very line view. Genoa is celebrated as being the birthplace of the pa- triot Andrea Doria and Columbus, as well as many other distinguished characters. The Cathedral is an ancient Gothic structure and con- tains a picture of the Crucifixion by Baroccio, and some fine statues. The churches are numerous and objects of much inte- rest; some of them are enriched with precious marble, and all are adorned with fine paintings by the most emi- nent masters. The following are the most deserving of notice : The Annunziata, one of the most costly churches in Genoa; The church of San Giro, formerly the Cathedral ; The church of Sant' Ambrogio; AT GENOA. I7r. The church of Santa Maria in Carignano ; this is aii elegant structure and contains some fine statues; the organ is a particularly fine one : from the cupola of this church a splendid view is obtained of Genoa, the beautiful bay and surrounding environs; The church of Santo Stefano alle Porte; San Matteo; Santa Maria del Castello; San Filippo Neri; San Francesco di Paola ; The Madonnetta. The palaces are extremely numerous and splendid ; amongst those best worth visiting are : The palazzo Don'a, which is the largest and though now, through neglect, it is fast falling to decay, still from Ihe interest ^vhich every remembrance of the celebrated patriot Andrea Doria excites, it is usually visited; The Royal Palace ; II palazzo del signer Giacomo Filippo Durazzo; 11 palazzo Brignole; 11 palazzo del signor Gaetano Cambiaso ,' 11 palazzo Spinola. These all contain fine paintings by the first masters. The palace of the ^ueen-Mother is not large, but is splendidly furnished. The Hospital or Aibergo dei Poveri is an asylum for the poor and aged; it is sufficiently large to lodge more than two thousand persons. It is also used as a house of cor- rection, and every individual who can work, is taught some useful trade. It is a magnificent edifice, situated on a lofty eminence. The Church belonging to this hos- pital deserves notice. 176 ROUTE FROM GENOA TO NICE. There are also olher hospitals at Genoa : The Hospital of Incurables ; The Great Hospital for the sick of all nations, as well as for foundlings ; And a School for the Deaf and Dumb, where the chil- dren are taughtsome useful trade. The best artificial flowers in Europe are made at Zerbino, at the Conservatorio delle Freschine. The Royal Theatre is handsome and elegantly or- namented inside and out. The Postoffice is also a hand- some building. Water is conveyed to Genoa by splendid aqueducts six leagues in length, and so well arranged that every story of every house is supplied with this necessary article. Route from Genoa to Nice. FROM Genoa there is a splendid and most interesting road to Nice (in Italian flizza), called the Cornica or Riviera, along the maritime Alps, and in many places cut in the sides of mountains, overhanging the sea and combining the advantages of Alpine magnificent scenery on one side, and the blue Mediterranean on the other; it is for the most part carried along the shore round bays and headlands, the sharp angles of which afford sudden and beautiful views of the dark-blue sea, studded with the picturesque white Latin sail, so peculiar to this sea and the coasts of Spain. The distance does not exceed 128 English miles, although the traveller has to pay for as many as 515 3 /4 posts, the posts upon this road averaging little more than 3 '/a English miles each. CLIMATE OF NICE. 177 Nice HAS been long renowned for Ihe beauty of its situation and the efficacy and brilliancy of its climate. Invalids of every shade and character have made it their favourite winter-resort, and though perhaps in advanced pulmonary cases it does not quite deserve the reputation it once enjoyed, it does not the less possess many advantages in its climate, like many others, in various chronic and severe diseases. The mean temperature of Nice is 59 for the whole year, during the winter 48, in spring 56, being 7 warmer than London. "The range of temperature," says Dr. Clark, " for the day, is also less at ISice than in any part of the south of Europe, and in steadiness of tempera- ture it ranks next to Madeira." This great equability of temperature is owing to its position, being sheltered by the maritime Alps from the northerly winds during winter, and during summer being always cooled by the regular sea-breezes. In the spring , when the real winter of Nice may be said to set in, the mistral blows, which commits such mischief in Provence, but which can only prevail partially at Nice in consequence of the Alps shelter- ing it; a certain degree of cold is felt from the dry nature of the wind. Flowers, fruit and vegetables are abundant during the whole winter, and the evergreen appearance of the olive , orange and lemon-trees, with which every gar- den teems and every hill is covered , present the aspect of an everlasting spring. Snow rarely falls, and never remains on the ground, and during the winter of 1838 9, the thermometer, with the exception of two nights, never descended below 55 Fahrenheit. Epidemics 178 ENGLISH D1V1.NE SERVICE AT NICE. are never seen, and fevers are very rare. The climate of jNiice is almost specific from its dryness, for scrofulous and other diseases arising in weak lymphatic constitutions, in what is called wet asthma, gout, rheumatism and gravelly complaints ; to sum up, the climate of Nice is warm, exhilarating, bracing and exciting; to full-habited per- sons irritating. English Physician : DR. HARINGT01T. English Surgeon ; MR. BOWLING. Protestant Divine Service. NICE has the privilege of a regular church and burial- ground for the Protestant English, licensed and patented by the Sardinian Government. It is also protected and assisted by the British Government, that contributes an- nually to the maintenance of the establishment. Its present Chaplain is the Rev. JOHN HARTLEY, A. M., and Divine Service is regularly performed throughout the year, twice on Sundays and festivals, at the hours of 11 A. M. and 3 P. M. Nice contains good hotels, nume- rous excellent arid convenient lodging-houses, and provi- sions of every description are plentiful and reasonable. From Genoa to Turin THE post-road was formerly carried over a dangerous ROUTE FROM GENOA TO TURIN. 179 passage of Ihe Bocchetla, but now ihe fine road of Val di Scrivia is finished, which extends to Novi, where it joins the old road to Alessandria. It passes out along the bay through some villages situated on the seashore, for SOUK; time after leaving the city ; then winding towards the right, leaving the sea behind, passing PonteDecimo, the road is car- ried up the summit ofa low pass of the Apennines, securely sheltered from every gust of wind, and commanding some splendid views of the Mediterranean and bay of Genoa, Hence the road descends through some wild scenery to Ronco. Between Ronco and Novi the road is level and good ; passing through a lovely valley and some fine vineyards, it enters Novi. 1 This is a clean and lively little town, with some handsome houses. The ruins of its old castle stand on an eminence which commands a line view of the town and country. It is celebrated for a great battle fought here, a year before the battle of Marengo. After leaving Novi the road traverses a flat plain almost destitute of trees or fences, till it reaches the village of Marengo, near which, and on this plain, Napoleon gained a decisive victory over ihe Auslrians. The column erected to commemorate this victory, and on the spot where the brave Desaix fell, has been destroyed. The tablet or monument erected by order of Napoleon to the me- mory of that brave general in the chapel of the convent of St. Bernard, has also been removed, and now lies neglected in the passage on the ' The best hotel at IN'ovi is the ALBERCO iu:i.r.' AQim,* IMPKRIALE, in ihe Great Square. It is well situated and contains some good and well furnished rooms, a good cook, and the charges are moderate. There are also good stabling and coach-houses. 180 ROUTE FROM GENOA TO TURIN. landing place that leads to the room appropriated to travellers. How paltry is all this! (Author.) The Bormida, a rapid torrent, is crossed a quarter of a league distant from Alessandria. 1 The town or fortress of Alessandria is pleasantly situated in an extensive plain watered by thg Tanaro ; it is large, handsome and celebrated for the many sieges it has sustained. Its citadel is of great strength, and there is a splendid covered bridge, remarkable for its length, height and solidity. It also contains a Royal Palace. The Governor's House, the New Theatre, and the churches of San Lorenzo and Sant' Alessandro, together with the ramparts, are generally visited by travellers. Beyond this town, the road becomes tedious from the uninteresting character of the scenery.and the sandy nature of the soil. Proceeding along the course of the Tanaro, by Feliz- zano, and after passing the village of Annone, traversing a valley richly cultivated; the road then crosses the Stirone, just before it enters Asli. Asti is situated near the river Tanaro, amidst vineyards, 1 The HOTEL DE L'UNIVKRS (Giovanni Carones, proprietor) is si- tuated in the Great Square, near the Royal Palace and the Theatre ; . it is decidedly the most open and lively part of the town. The hotel contains large and small apartments and separate chamhers; the saloon is provided with a halcony which has a pleasant look-out over the large and hustling square. It is well provided with stables and coach-houses. This hotel is citremely well placed, and the landlord, who appears a res- pectable and very civil man, assured me he had an eicellent cook and that bis charges were eitrcmely moderate. (Author.) HOTELS AT TURIN. 181 said lo produce the best wine in Piedmont. It contains the paternal residence of the most distinguished tragic poet of Italy, the count Alfieri ; the Duomo and its churches merit notice. This town was once famous for its hundred towers; but now, but a very few remain : its walls, which appear to have been in former ages very extensive, are at Ihe present time in a ruinous condition ; it has a dirty, sombre appearance, and its inhabitants neither look in- dustrious , nor wealthy. The population of this town is from nine to ten thousand. Between Asli and Turin the route crosses the plains through some towns of little importance till it reaches Moncallier, at which place there is a handsome Royal Re- sidence; winding round the foot of the hill on which this town is placed, the route continues along the river to Turin, then enters the cily, crossing the river Po by a fine bridge. Turin contains large and handsome hotels : GRA?0> HOTEL D'EUROPE, Jean Mottura, place du Chateau, USED to be frequented by the English, but the charges are so glaringly exorbitant that they are fast deserting it. There is no table d'hote, and the dinners served in and from the restaurant are very expensive, and except a very high price is paid they are not good. At present this hotel is not to be recommended. It was formerly called the Universe, am) kept by the same person; under lhat name it lost its connexions for tlie same reason I give aliove. (Author.) ITALY. 16 182 HOTELS AT TURIN. HOTEL AND PENSION SUISSE, Chapusot and JRozzi, 18, rue Charles Albert, WILL be found a large and very comfortable house; it makes up at present near eighty beds, and from the im- provements now making, there will be upwards of a hundred. The hotel is conveniently situated near the bureau of the diligence, ihe Postoffice and the principal theatres; it is well and comfortably furnished through- out; there is an excellent and reasonable restaurant in the establishment and a capital table d'hote at a fixed hour, or dinners are sent out to order, and evening par- ties or balls are attended to and served with everything that may be desired. In the yard of the hotel there is a Cabinet de Lecture in which the newspapers etc. of several countries can be seen. The proprietors of this establishment are extremely civil people. I should say their hotel is well conducted and comfortable, and the charges will he found just and reasonable. (Author.) HOTEL AND PENSION FEDER, Is a little to the left of the rue dw Po, one of the best and most convenient situations in the town, near the Post- office and the principal theatres, and not far from the public offices. It is a very large and well conducted establishment; it contains many suits of handsome apartments, calculated for the reception of large or small families, besides a great many separate chambers. The tables d'hdle are at half past 1 and at y o'clock, they are most liberally supplied with everything in season; private dinners are served at any hour in the public room TURIN. 183 or in private apartments ; the service of the table is of a superior description, and the house is altogether conduct- ed in a way to give entire satisfaction. This is a highly respectahlc, clean and very comfortable house. The tables d'hdle arc excellent, both as regards the cooking and the style of the service of the table. Madame FEOBR is a clever, active and very agreeable person ; she attends personally to her dinners and every department of her establishment. (Author.) Tnrin, THE capital of Piedmont, is a large and handsome town, situated in a beautiful plain, abounding with mulberries and vines, and watered by the rivers Po and Doria Riparia, surrounded by hills covered by handsome villas, and towering above them all is the splendid church of La Super -go,. The entrance to the city by the Genoa road is grand and imposing : the streets (particularly the strada del Po) are wide and handsome ; most of them are adorned with fine porticoes, under which are large and very handsome shops of every description. There are many objects that deserve notice in this town : The Royal Palace, which contains a valuable collection of pictures; the Armoury, though small, is very inte- resting and possesses some splendid Ggures of warriors on horseback in armour, besides many other objects of anti- quity, also a large collection of modern and ingenious fire-arms. Its churches also merit notice : the Duomo or Cathedral, the church of San Filippo Neri, and the church of Santa Cristina. The University contains a 184 ROUTE FROM TURIN TO MILAN. statue of Cupid and many other valuable works. There are two handsome theatres, the Gran Teatro, one of the largest and most beautiful edifices of its kind existing, and the Teatro di Carignano. The ramparts and public Gardens are the principal promenades and are exceedingly pretty. The walls or ramparts extend nearly four miles round the city, and its population is about 90,000. The Citadel, which was nearly destroyed by the French, has been rebuilt and is now a remarkably fine fortress. The church of La Superga is situated on a lofty emi- nence, commanding some magnificent views of the plain below. There are many beautiful walks and drives in the en- virons of Turin, and places worth a visit. A Royal villa, La Veneria, which contains some fine pictures ; Valen- tino, where there is also a public Garden; La Villa del/a Regina; and Camaldoli, the drive to which place is most romantic and beautiful. The ruins of the ancient town of Industria are ex- ceedingly interesting, situated at Monte di Po, near the fortress of Vereia, some little distance from the town. from Turin to Milan THE road is good the whole way; almost devoid of hills and traversing a rich and highly cultivated plain, bounded to the left by the magnificent Alps, and to the right, on some portion of the road, by richly wooded hills passing through some remarkably handsome clean towns and villages. ROUTE FROM MILAN TO BALE. 185 The first portion of the road leading out from Turin is very beautiful, the environs of this part of the city are particularly clean and pretty. On the right behind, a short distance from the town, on a lofty eminence, is the church of the Superga; on the left a luxuriant country with the majestic chain of Alps towering above it. Between Turin and Settimo, the country is fertile and well cultivated, watered by rivers descending from the Alps. Vercelli, the first town of any importance, is large and well peopled; it contains a Cathedral, the Portico of which is worth a visit. Beyond this town the air is said to be unwholesome, in consequence of the rice-grounds : the rice grows here luxuriantly and appears to be the only grain cultivated between Vercelli and Novara. The approach and en- trance to the latter place is particularly pleasing. Novara is a very handsome and clean city, situated on a gentle eminence, on the river called La Gogna. It contains a handsome Cathedral and some good shops. Hence the road continues through a rich and fine country lo Milan. On the near approach to the town, the chaste and very beautiful Duomo rises in view above the other buildings. The hotels of Milan are already described (page 20-26). From Milan, by the Splugcii-pnss, to Bait-. through a fine cultivated country, on an excellent 16. 186 ROUTE FROM MILAN TO BALE road, from Milan to the prettily situated town of Lecco, 1 the route continues along the banks of the lake of the same name, amidst romantic and lovely scenes, to Va- renne. From the inn (Hotel Royal}' 1 of this town the windows 1 At Lecco the HOTEL DE t\ CROIX I>E MALTB ( Pielro Marcioni, proprietor ) is a comfortable house. The beds are very good and the dinners liberal and well served. There is large stabling and safe standing for carriages. The proprietor of this hotel is a civil man ; he has lately opened the Hitfl Royal at Varenne. (Author.) * The HOTEI ROYAL (kept by Pielro Marcioni), in the great square, at Varenne, in the finest position in the town, is one of the most splendidly situated hotels in Italy : it is built upon a succession of terraces which are laid out in gardens, and which, by a picturesque and noble flight of stone sleps, leads immediately to the edge of the water. From most of the windows of the hotel some of the finest views of the lakes of Como and Lecco are obtained, and the noble villa of Tramezzina, upon the opposite shore of the lake of Como, forms a conspicuous object amidst the beautiful scenery with which the hotel is on every side surrounded. It is handsomely and comfortably fur- nished ; the apartments are large and conveniently arranged for fa- milies and single persons, and there is a very neat establishment of baths in the gardens of the hotel. Boats for excursions on the lakes are always in readiness in the little port, appertaining to the premises. Horses and carriages may be had either for long or short journeys, and there are spacious stabling and lock-up-coach-houses. Pietro Marcioni is also proprietor of the CROIX DE MALTE at Lecco, which is likewise furnished in a clean and comfortable manner, wilh every requisite for travellers, who will find each hotel conducted in a liberal manner and at moderate and reasonable charges. As a summer or winter's residence nothing is wanting to render the H6lel Royal at Varenne a most desirable abode. Fires are seldom required, even in the height of winter; should however a 6re be desired, each saloon and many of the bed-rooms rr furnished with French rkeminfen. Ortainlv no traveller" BY THE SPLUGEN. 187 command some most beautiful views of the two lakes of Como and Lecco. The garden of the hotel reaches, by a handsome flight of stone steps and terraces, to the little port at the edge of the lake, where boats are stationed for those who wish to visit the many beautiful spots round the lakes of Cotno and Lecco. Near Cadenobbia, which is situated on the opposite shore, is a most striking view of the three branches of the lake. At this place is the villa Sommariva, which merits no- tice, as it contains some fine statues and pictures made for Napoleon, and the gardens and grounds that surround the villa are extensive and beautiful. A short distance from here is the villa d'Este where Caroline, queen of England, once resided. There are many other places on the shores of these lakes, equally beautiful. From Varcnne the fine road of the Stelvio continues along the shores of the lake of Como to Calico, passing through several very remarkable grottoes, cut out of the solid rock. Calico is a poor little village without any decent inn. The steam-boat touches here every day, on its way to Domaso, on the opposite shore. Hence the road traverses a plain, passing the Spanish fort Fuenles, placed on a wild and savage-looking rock. Leaving to the right the great route to Vienna, our road soon after crosses the river Adda upon a long and very narrow wooden bridge. At the extremity of the extensive who are fond of fine scenery should pass Varcnne without iojourning short time at the Hdtet Rnyal, where they will find a good table and great civility and attention. (,/tiMor.) 188 ROUTE FROM MILAN TO BALE plain of swamp and morass through which the Adda winds its way, the road is carried through two galleries excavated in the rock and continuing along a wild and desolate space close to the Codera, a furious torrent, that spreads out its waste of rocks and gravel for nearly half a mile. This truly desolate spot is situated at the base of wild and savage mountains, which greatly adds to its melancholy appearance. Just beyond is the quiet little lake called Lago di Riva ; formerly there was not any road by the side of it, and travellers were carried across by barges. It is completely surrounded by mountains, those on the opposite shore are richly wooded. Occasionally a monastery with the little white chapels are seen at an opening of the trees, and at the summit of the most lofty mountains are placed some convents, which together with the lake below form some picturesque and beautiful scenery. Novate, a small village and now a post-station, is situated near the lake. Hence the route continues through the lower valley of the Meira to Chia- venna ; the scenery is uninteresting, and the low ground marshy, and said to be exceedingly unwholesome. Tra- vellers should never stop for the night between Calico and Chiavenna, as la mal' aria hangs over the Meira and the Adda. Chiavenna ' is beautifully situated immediately under > CONRADI'S HOTEL or HOTEL DB LA POSTE, is good in every respect: it is in the opening at the upper end of the town. It is the posthoiisi 1 , and the diligence arrives and departs hence. Posthorses and horses to assist in the mountains can always be obtained here. M. CoJiADt is B civil and very active man. In bad weathor travellers huuld take his advice about passing the mountain. (Author.'] BY THE SPLUGEN. 189 the mountains which fearfully overhang the town; the surrounding hills are richly cultivated with vineyards and fig-trees. On a rock opposite the inn is an old castle, now in ruins, which once belonged to the Salis family. The church of St. Lawrence is worth a visit. This is a flourishing town and contains from three to four thousand inhabitants, and derives much benefit from its position on the Splugen road. The thriving and beautiful village of Pleurs, once the summer resort of the citizens of Chiavenna, and situated a short distance from the town, was buried by the fall of Monte Conlo; every soul perished, and the long continued excavations of the labourers failed in finding anything either dead or alive among the ruins. The ascent to Campo Dolcino commences at Chiavenna, gradually continuing through scenes of wildness and de- solation; many parts of the road are narrow, and the turnings too sharp. Near the wretched little village of San Giacomo is the church of la Madonna di Gallivaggio with its tall white campanile, which offers a strange but pleasing contrast to the gloomy scenes around it. Hence the road traverses the desolate vale of the Lira, near which spot four men with several English horses were killed by the falling of an avalanche in the month of April 1839 : they had been warned earnestly by the people of the poslhouse not to proceed ; but unfortunately they refused to listen, and their lives paid the forfeit of their obsti- nacy. Campo Dolcino is situated in a small plain. From this village the road descends to a wild glen or ravine; a short distance farther the ascent commences to ihc summit of the Splugen, passing the village of Pianazzo, 190 ROUTE FROM MILAN TO BALE lo the first and second gallery; from this elevated point magnificent views are obtained of the valley below. These galleries are the longest of any on these Alpine passes, they are built of solid masonry ; the roofs are arched sloping downwards, to turn aside the snow, and are placed on this part of the road to protect the traveller from fall- ing avalanches, and also preserve the road from being swept away. After passing Ihe third gallery the road still continues to ascend, till it reaches the little hamlet of Teginate, and then traversing nearly a level road lo the Austrian custom- house. Ascending again along a narrow ridge of the mountain, passing the last house of refuge, the summit of this pass is attained, 6,300 feet above Ihe level of the sea. Hence the road descends ; the first portion is carried through a fine forest of firs down to the valley of Oberhausenbach, a torrent that joins the Rhine at Splugen, by a new line; the old one was destroyed by a tempest in 1854. This valley still presents a scene of desolation, the road and bridges were entirely carried away by this tempest, and now enormous heaps of broken rocks are strewed over its sides and bottom ; this new line is much improved from the old one, and was constructed by a Swiss engineer; beyond this desolate spot the Rhine is crossed by a wooden bridge to the village of Splugen. The route of the Splugen was completed by the Go- vernment of Austria, to counteract the effects of the new Swiss road over the Bernardino, through which the entire traffic then passed. The old road of this passage of the Alps proceeded from this elevated valley where the Austrian cuslom-house BY THE SPLUGEN. 191 is situated, direct to the village of Isola, passing through the defile of the Cardinel, a most dangerous spot from the constant falling of avalanches. But the new road now avoids this perilous spot altogether. It generally takes from seven to eight hours with posthorses to go from Chiavenna to Splugen, 1 when there is not any snow on the ground. The Splugen. THE village of Splugen is situated on the Rhine, and the difference of the atmosphere is soon felt on this side of the Alps. In the year 1834 a flood swept away twelve houses and five human beings ; the bridge over the Rhine escaped, but that over the Seranda was totally destroyed. The route between Splugen and Coire, the Via, mala, is carried through a wild and stupendous ravine, called the Rheinwald, or valley of the forest of the Rhine. After leaving Splugen the road ascends for a short distance, then gradually descending through a portion of this defile amidst some fine scenery (though not so magni- ficent as that of the lower pass), till it nearly reaches Andeer, three leagues from the village of Splugen. Near Andeer, in the year 1835, part of a mountain fell, and so completely destroyed the road that no communication took place between the upper and lower valley for several weeks; fortunately no lives were lost. 1 The HOTEL DE LA POSTE at Splugen is now a very good inn, and the present aclinjj proprietor is a worthy and respectable man ; it will he a mailer of regret should he leave it, which there is some talk of. (Author.) 192 ROUTE FROM MILAN TO BALE Beyond Andccr the road enters the magnificent and stupendous ravine called the Rheinwald, through which the road and the Rhine wind amidst perpendicular rocks nearly three thousand feet high, and clothed to their summits with fine stately firs, the hranches of which form a canopy to the narrow glen below them. The river runs foaming and raging with frightful vio- lence, a considerable distance below the road, which has no defence against the abyss below, but a slight parapet wall. Before reaching Thusis, on a rock (on the right), are the ruins of the picturesque castle of Realta, said to be accessible only from the east. The road then crosses the torrent of Nolla, by a fine bridge, enters Thusis, a pretty village pleasantly si- tuated three leagues and a quarter from Reichenau. Between Thusis and Reichenau, the first portion of the road (through the valley of the Rhine) exhibits dismal traces of the inundations of the Hinter-Rhein and the torrent of Nolla; but that part of the Rheinlhal, called Domleschg, becomes more picturesque and pleasing; on almost every rock, or knoll, on the opposite banks of the river, are to be seen ruins of old castles, which greatly add to the beauty of the landscape. A short distance before Reichenau is reached the castle of Rhaetzuns, placed in a commanding situation on the right bank of the Rhine; it is approached by a long bridge and is still inhabited. The pretty village of Reichenau is situated at the junc- tion of the Rhine ; the road is carried over the two arms of the river, by two splendid covered wooden bridges. It contains a handsome castle, the country-residence of BY THE SPLUGEN. . 193 the Planta family; it was at one time a school, and there Louis-Philippe, the present king of the French, sought refuge after the first French revolution, and for some time lived as teacher of the mathematics. Two leagues from this village is Coire, 1 the capital of the. canton of the Grisons. This is an ancient town, delightfully situated, on the high road from Switzerland to Italy. 2 Diligences go from Coire four times a week to Zurich, communicating with the steam-packets on the lakes of Wallcnstadt and Zurich. From Coire to Ragatz is five leagues ; the road passes through a fertile country crossing the torrent of Lan- quart, and soon after the Rhine is crossed by a bridge to Ragatz. The approach to this little village is exceedingly pretty. Beyond this village is the little town of Sargans, placed in a lofly situation, near a castle; on leaving Sargans, the road passes through the lovely little valley of Seez to WaU lensladt. This town is half a mile from the lake and con- tains nothing particularly interesting. Hence the steam- boat lakes travellers to Wesen. There is a diligence at each end of the lake for passengers, which awaits the arrival of the steamers. The lake of Wallenstadt is about twelve miles long; the scenery is beautiful, particularly near Wesen; there 1 At Coire llie CAPRICORN is a very comfortable house and much recommended by travellers who have frequented it; for the other best inns on this route, see page 195. 1 For description, see our Road- Book for Switzerland, page 53. 17 . 194 ROUTE FROM COIRE TO BALE. are several splendid waterfalls which precipitate them- selves over the rocks from immense heights. They arc seen to the best advantage in the month of May, when the snow begins to melt from the heights above. Wesen is situated at the west extremity of the lake of Wallenstadt, amidst grand and beautiful scenery. From Wesen to TJtznach, three leagues and a quarter, the route traverses a rich valley bounded by snowy mountains and commanding some splendid views; some distance farther it reaches the shores of the lake of Zu- rich. Continuing along the banks for a few miles, the road leaves them just before it enters Rapperswyl, two leagues and three quarters from TJtznach. This town is picturesque, partly surrounded by old walls, above which is an old caslle and convent overlook- ing the lake. Hence it is about six leagues to Zurich, on a good road, passing through some remarkably clean and pretly villages, and commanding fine views of the lake and sur- rounding country nearly ihe whole way. From Zurich to Bale are fifty-three English miles. Di- ligences leave Zurich daily for Bale. For description of this route and the hotels on it, see our Road- Book for Switzerland, published in 1839. ROUTE FROM COIRE TO BALE. 195 Best hotels from Colre to Bale. HOTEL AT RAGATZ. HOTEL DE LA TAMIHTA, GOOD, clean and reasonable, kept by a respectable and worthy man. The new car-road to the celebrated Baths of Pfeffers is now open ; it is the only carriage-road to this very singular establishment which few travellers miss seeing. (Author.) HOTEL AT WESEN. HOTEL DE L'EPEE. Excellent hotel, beautifully situated at the head of the lake. (Author.) HOTEL AT RAPPERS WYL. HOTEL DU FREIENHOF. Clean nil reasonable. The Paon, outside the town, dear and uncivil. (Author.) HOTELS AT ZURICH. HOTEL DE L'EPEE. Clean, well conducted and respectable; dinners, excellent. Pro- prietor, a worthy man. (Author.) HOTEL BAUR, A very large and handsome building, opposite the new 196 ROUTE FROM COIRE TO BALE. Postoffice, lately opened by Mr. BACK, proprietor. This hotel is newly and elegantly furnished, and well con- ducted. HOTEL AT BADEN. HOTEL DU STADTHOF, AT the Baths of Baden. An old establishment, highly respectable and well conducted. New landlord (in 1839) from the Cerf at Zug; a clever man, and likely to add to the already good reputation of the hotel . (Author.} HOTEL AT BRUGG. MAISON ROUGE, MIDDLING. They do what they can to make you comfort- able. HOTELS AT BALE. HOTEL DES TROIS ROIS, Aw excellent hotel, beautifully situated and conducted in a very superior manner. Landlord highly respectable. HOTEL DE LA. COUROIfNE D*OR, A good, clean and very respectable house, conducted by an agreeable widow. THE END. APPENDIX. LONDON, CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENCY. FAMILIES going abroad frequently have more luggage than they can conveniently take with them, and families abroad often desire to forward part of their baggage or any purchases they make to England. All packages sent to England should be consigned to an agent, in order that they may be passed through the custom-house ; and by having them consigned to a respectable firm, all anxiety as to their falling into improper hands or being lost or damaged, is avoided. The following firms are highly respectable ; they are each under a bond for 1,0001. st. to the commissioners of customs for the security of all goods consigned to them. Persons abroad may with confidence intrust any business to them. Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN'S address is, 8, Old Jewry, London. Mr. J. F. CHINIYEBY'S address is, Custom-House, London, or, at the Counting-House, opposite the Custom-House. 17. 108 LONDON. MESSRS. J. AND R. M'CRACKEN, 8, OLD JEWRY, LONDON, AGENTS by appointment to the Royal Academy, and Agents ge- nerally for the reception and shipment of works of art, bag- gage, etc. In acknowledging the liberal patronage of the nobility and gentry, they beg to assure them of their unremitting attention to their interests in passing through the custom-house any consignments with which they may favour them ; and having been for upwards of twenty years engaged in this branch of business, they can offer every advantage, both in economy and the care of the property intrusted to their management. British artists resident abroad, having occasion to send home their works for exhibition, or to be passed by the Academy, will find it advantageous to address them to the care of Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEIV, whose appointment enables them to offer every facility. Parties favouring J. and R. M'CRA.CKEN with consignments are requested to be particular in having the bills of lading sent to them direct by post, and also to forward their keys with the packages, as all goods must be examined immediately on ar- rival. J. and R. M'CRACKEIV keep Lachrymse Christi and Marsala wines of the first quality, and are the sole agents in London to Messrs. S. Stock and Co., wine merchants, 8, place Vendome, Paris, and also to Messrs. Behrends brothers, of Frankfort. CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENCY. 199 CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENT, MR. J. T. CHINNERY, Custom- House, or, at his Offices opposite the Custotn- House, London, RECEIVES and sends forward or warehouses until required, baggage, and goods of every description that may be consigned to his care. Persons purchasing works of art, or British and other artists having occasion to send their works to England for exhibition or to be passed by the Academy, can (by having them addressed to Mr. CHIPWERY as above) have them passed through the custom-house and delivered or warehoused at moderate and reasonable charges. Mr. Cm* * ERY will also take charge of and send abroad to any destination the surplus luggage or other goods of families about to go abroad. He will also undertake to purchase and forward to them any article they may require from London during their stay abroad. The bills of lading of all goods consigned to the care of Mr. CmraERY should be forwarded to him by post. When luggage is sent to his care, the keys of the packages must be attached to them ; as all goods must be ( according to the rules of the custom-house) examined immediately on arrival. Mr. CHINXERY will give every information that may be re- quired respecting duties or custom-house regulations, on appli- cation personally or by letter (post paid) addressed to his office, Thames-street, facing the Custom-House. Mr. CHijmERY has agents in every port of Italy and in most large towns upon the continent, who will receive and forward all goods consigned to hi care. PARIS. MEDICAL HALL, 26, PLACE VENDOME, Near the rue Neuve des Petits-Champs. KENT AND Co., English chemists and druggists, agents for the sale of Dr. Henry's magnesia and aromatic vinegar ; Savory's Seidlitz powders ; Dinneford's solution of becarbonate of mag- nesia; and electrical hair-glove renovators, invented by colonel Roll for cutaneous frictions ; Thomson's Cheltenham salts ; Smith's quintessence of liquorice for coughs; Oldridge's balm of Columbia for promoting the growth of the hair ; the trusses and female abdominal supporters of Dr. Hull of New- York; the surgical instruments of Weiss, Strand ; the adhesive and other plasters of Wright and Ewen of Jermyn-street. The following articles are also to be found in this establishment : essence, sirop and pills of sarsaparilla ; splints for fractures; pullies for reducing dislocations ; a sto- mach pump in cases of poisoning ; English lint; bandages of all descriptions ; bougies, catheters and other instruments in gum elastic. Bleeding, cupping, drawing and stopping teeth, and other minor operations of surgery. Post mortem examinations and embalming of bodies. English prescriptions prepared with English medicines, by experienced assistants from London. French prescriptions pre- pared according to the French pharmacopoeia. Veterinary medicines of all kinds. Genuine English patent medicines. MEDICAL HALL. 201 Pelte de Regnauld. Odontine de Pelletier. Cere"asote billard. Capsules de Copahu, de Mothes; and other French patent me- dicines mostly in vogue. Medicine chests fitted up. A register for the addresses of the English medical prac- titioners and students; and of the principal French physicians and surgeons. Orders executed for French chemicals. COLOGNE. IMPORTANT NOTICE. TRAVELLERS proceeding to Switzerland, Italy, or any place upon the Rhine, should be particular in patronising the very splendid, quick and comfortable boats of the RHENISH STEAM NAVIGATION COLOGNE COMPANY, Established in 1827; and they should be particular in not confounding these boats with those of the Steam Navigation Company of the lower and middle Rhine, only recently (1858) established, under the name of the Dusseldorf Company. The boats of the RHENISH STEAM NAVIGATION COLOGNE COMPANY are easily distinguished from those of the Dusseldorf Company, by the black painted chimneys and by the name of the said Company being painted on the paddle boxes. The RHENISH STEAM NAVIGATION COLOGNE COMPANY have now fifteen powerful, very elegant and com- fortable steamers, and several others are building, which, for size, elegance, and speed, are calculated to surpass all others. This Company's boats run in fifty hours from Cologne to Strasbourg, and the passage from Bale in Switzerland to Cologne is accomplished in forty hours, including one night that the steamer remains at Manheim. The fares by the steam-boats of this Company, have re- cently been reduced forty per cent, and they are (1840) the cheapest conveyances upon the Rhine, as will be perceived by the tariff given further on. To prevent mistakes, it is neces- sary to observe that the tariffs of fares published in the Hand- book for travellers and other Guides are erroneous : all former tariffs are however now abolished, and these here STEAM NAVIGATION OF THE RHINE. 203 given have been decided upon by this Company, who are de- termined to give every facility and comfort possible to travel- lers by this delightful route. Travellers will in some cases find it convenient and to their advantage, to take a ticket for the whole voyage out and home, under the denomination of personal tickets : to such, a deduc- tion of twenty-five per cent from the charges given in the tariff is allowed; an important consideration to large parties, fa- milies and travellers generally. The steam-boats of the Cologne Company now daily run as follows : From April to the 1st of November, three times a day from Cologno to Maycnee ; Twice a day from Mayence to Manheim ; Once a day from Manheim to Strasbourg and Bale. The advantages to travellers who give the preference to this Company's boats, are many : They may, w hen they think proper, land at any of the intermediate places at which the boats stop, resuming their journey at their pleasure by any of the other boats of the Company : they have thus not only an opportunity of viewing the towns on the banks of the Rhine, but may make excursions of several hours to see any fine scenery or curiosity in the neighbourhood of the river, and no other Company can offer such advantages. The Cologne Company are in correspondence with the Dutch Steam Navigation Company; and tickets may be taken, as far as B51e, of the Company's agents, Mr. Willay, 123, Fenchurch- street, London ; and Messrs. Hofmann and Schenk, 4, Vine- street. Minories, London; and return-tickets upon the same principle are issued at Bale, Strasbourg, Manheim or any other of the Company's stations, as far as London. Between Coblenlz and Ems, Bingen, Kreuznach, Biberich, Wiesbaden, Mayence, Francfort, Leopoldshafen, Carlsruhe, Iffe/heim, Baden, Kehl and Strasbourg, a regular correspond- ence is kept up by elegant and comfortable coaches, and travellers can at their option book themselves at either of 204 COLOGNE. these places, by conveyances which they may rely upon al- ways finding in readiness, to proceed to meet the boats of the Company, and it is at their charge that the baggage of passen- gers is removed to and from the steamers. The Company not only have agents at all the above-named places, but also at Antwerp, Ostend, Brussels, Liege, and Aix- Ja-Chapelle, where tickets may be had and every information obtained relative to those steamers. From the beginning of the month of April to the end of October, the Cologne Company boats start every morning at 7 and at 9 o'clock, and at o o'clock in the afternoon. From the 1st of November to the 1st of April, one boat (only) leaves Cologne every morning at 7 o'clock, when the weather permits. Among the new steam-boats of the Cologne Company, the John Cockerill, the Queen Victoria, the Stadt Manheim, the Leopold, the Ludwig, the Stadt Coblentz, the Kronprinz and the Graf von Paris, are distinguished for their quickness, comfort and elegance, and are now unparalleled on the Rhine. Under the especial control of the Committee, an excellent table d'hote and other refreshments of the best description are to be found on board the whole of the Cologne Company's steamers, and upon the wine card the prices of the wines provided (which are of superior quality) are marked on a very moderate scale. Travellers having any complaint to make, are requested to write it in the book that is kept on board each boat for the purpose ; they may depend upon its being strictly examined into by the Committee, the fault rectified, and the party com- mitting it punished. At Cologne, the office of the Cologne Company is Thurn- market-street, and at the Leistapel, near the Rhine bridge. The tariff of fares by the RHENISH STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY'S boats, out and home, is as follows. To all intermediate places they are fixed at prices equally reasonable. A printed list may be had on board. STEAM NAVIGATION OF THE RHINE. 205 o o M s5 2 b ^o S h, > b. " tf : ^ U pN H IK u "5 OO *-<- (HCT-f O OOO> t- slim t ta 3 o E ^ to IO IO IO -fl 1 * e *H ||t||l | o 8 o 'fi a '" H 3 ^ 1C h t^ w o T" OO e CT US .S o " "S = u j- v .E c t3 . ^OO^tOi-HG^Q^OO A o *5 -a K tz S H * T< *- *1 J estt = ^ 1 U ^W WU5W , ,^^,, ll l =|j Z o K o ^^o^tot-oooto^w S^ S "fl's I s [ ^-WWCOSJ-WJJOJO^M "^'ll 2 " "S h ^<0*-t^oOa~~~<* Pw*"^ 1 " o " a ^^too.o.to^^oo^ ! .. 1 1 1 "s | u IO O> 00 O IO "^ O O ^ GO --*" '^ -* C to 1 ^-1 -l -'a;>~H O ^U,<0,0^ .^. i rr e -f-l o ** c* 5_ - 3 O(^h--rO>OCJ>OlO s g""^ 5 g _ u > TH ri ri f ^S' 5 ^ E E a -a o '5:J3 "o g-.S -5 O O Si Lb U I||||||I| 18 206 COLOGNE. EAU DE COLOGNE. THE distillery of JEAN-MARIE FARINA, one of the most ancient distillers of genuine Cologne water, is opposite the Market- place at Cologne. His manufacture is celebrated in every civilized town in the four quarters of the globe : he was purveyor in ordinary to his late Majesty William IV. of Great Britain, by letters patent; and he is actually purveyor, by letters patent, to their Majesties the King and Queen of the French; Christina, Queen of Spain; Dona Maria de Gloria, Queen of Portugal; the Empress of Brazil, and many other sovereigns, and a vast number of the nobility of those and other realms. Persons desirous of obtaining the genuine Eau de Cologne of the manufacture of JEAN-MARIE FARINA, should be parti- cular in asking for, or that they are taken to his establishment opposite the Market, and not to be led away by the repre- sentations of interested persons in the streets etc., who are bribed to take strangers to establishments where an article of a very inferior description is foisted upon them, as the genuine Eau de Cologne of JEAN-MARIE FARINA. To pre- vent, as far as possible, those frauds, he recommends par- ticular attention to his label and engraving representing the most remarkable objects in Cologne. M. JEAN-MARIE FA- RINA will charge himself with forwarding all purchases made at his very extensively known establishment. Parties living abroad, desirous of obtaining the genuine Eau de Cologne, direct, from the distillery of JEAN-MARIE FARINA, opposite the Market, Cologne, can have it forwarded without trouble to themselves, by addressing him with a remittance, or a reference. They should however be parti- cular in putting the proper address, JEAN MARIE FARINA, op- posite the Market, Cologne. flemart by the Editor. Travellers who purchase themselves, at this esta- blishment at Cologne, will find M. FAMI* a most respectable, agreeable and gentlemanly man. BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL AT KEHL, Oppoiite Strasbourg. THE HOTEL DE I/AGJTEAU BLANC, AND POSTHOUSE, A. Lobstein, Is exactly opposite the Postoffice. It contains a great num- ber of apartments handsomely furnished and very comfortable. Everything appertaining to an hotel of the first class will be found in this establishment. Carriages for excursions into Strasbourg are always ready at a fixed and reasonable price. Carriages may also be had for journeys, and one always attends the arrival of each steam-boat, and brings the travellers to the hotel free of charge. This hotel will be found extremely convenient to parties proceeding to Baden- Baden and the neighbourhood of Kehl, for diligences leave the bureau opposite the hotel at various hours daily, for most parts of the Grand Dutchy. There are good stabling and safe standing for any number of carriages. Remark by tin Editor. This hotel was known as very comfortable quarter* during the time of the late worthy host, who has retired from it, and now occupies himself only as the head of the Postoffice. The present proprietor is an aclire and very obliging young man, well acquainted with his business and extremely anxious that his hotel should be known for its comfort and respectability and the moderation of the charges. He has appropriated a room for depositing the effects of travellers whilst they visit Strasbourg, and will ba most happy to give stranger! avery information they may require. A ROAD-BOOK FOR ITALY, AND A ROAD-BOOK FOR SWITZERLAND AND CHAMOUNI, Published by the same author in 1839, MAY BE HAD IN ITALY, BOLOGNA, FLORENCE, GENOA, LEGHORN, LUCCA, MILAN, MODENA, NAPLES, PARMA, PERUGIA, PlACENZA, PISA, ROME, SIENNA, TURIK, VENICE. IN SWITZERLAND, AARAU, of Sauerlander. GENEVA, of . Berthier-Guers. BALE . . Scherber and Co. LAUSANNE . . Ducloux. Haller and Huher. Gex. BERLIN . . Duncker and Co. LUCERNE. . . Meyer. CONSTANCE Glilcker. SCHAFFBAUSEN Hurter. CARLSRUHB Creuzbauer and Co. Bleulcr. FRIBOURG. Herder. SOLEURE. . . Kassmus. GENEVA. . Combe. STRASBOURG . Levrault. >< . . Darier. WlNTERTHUR Steiner. . . Desrogis. ZURICH . . . Orell, Fussli and Co. IN ENGLAND, AT DOVER, of Williams. Henry. Bachelor. MARGATE Osborn. i> Keeble. RAMSGATE Brewer. SOUTHAMPTON Jones. IN GERMANY, FRANCE, HOLLAND AND BELGIUM. Just published (March 1840) by the same author and may be had as above, price 2 francs, A WAISCOAT-POCKET MAP OF SWITZERLAND, giving the distances in French leagues from town to town, the lakes, etc., etc. IN THE PRESS and will be published by the 1st of June next, 1840, in English and French, THE EUROPEAN INDICATOR OR ROAD-BOOK FOR ALL COUNTRIES. A work upon which neither pains nor expense has been spared in bringing under the notice of travellers of all coun- tries the best and most useful public establishments, and the most frequented watering-places, cities, towns and remark- able places of Europe. In addition to a great deal of useful information, it will contain between forty and fifty copper- plate engravings ; an inspection of which cannot fail to be a source of amusement to our friends at home, as conveying to them a tolerable idea of the places we may have visited during our wanderings. THE EUROPEAN INDICATOR is a novel undertaking and cannot, like other performances that issue from the press, become obso- lete, as at the commencement of each year (and should the press of matter render it necessary, at other periods), the succeeding Edition will beentirely revised with the introduction of such new matter and insertions as the Editor may pick up or circumstances render necessary. May, 1840. END OF tHE APPENDIX. UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY A 000108646 1