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 THE STRANGER'S GUIDE 
 
 \ 
 
 IN LISBON; 
 
 OR 
 AN HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE VIEW 
 
 OF 
 
 THE CITY OF LISBON 
 
 *. 
 
 AND ITS ENVIRONS, 
 
 
 
 WITH NOTICES OF THE CHIEF PLACES OF 
 INTEREST IjPMESTREMADVRA. 
 
 LISBON : 
 
 .- 
 PRINTED BY A. j. P. CANADA DO CAIRA N. 11 A. 
 
 1 1848
 
 
 
 
 .
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The want of a small work serving as a 
 guide to this Capital and its environs has 
 long been felt and complained of by British 
 visitors to Lisbon. The following " Stran~ 
 gcr's Guide " is intended to supply in some 
 measure this desideratum .The object is to 
 form such a compendium of the history, 
 curiosities, antiquities and topography of 
 Lisbon, as may combine accurate and 
 ample information with suitable brevity. 
 
 The publisher flatters himself that, as 
 such, this little volume is calculated to sa- 
 tisfy the desires, and to merit the approval 
 of those for whose convenience it has been 
 compiled. 
 
 Lisbon, 1848.
 
 THK 
 
 STRANGER'S GUIDE IN LISBON. 
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 The origin of Lisbon, like that of many dlh*r 
 cities is involved in obscurity. The opinion that 
 most generally obtains is, that it was founded by 
 Ulysses after the destruction of Troy, and re- 
 ceived from him its name Ulyssipo. 
 
 * Pliny and Gruter assert that the ancient 
 name of Lisbon was Olisipo or Olisippo, a Phe~ 
 nician word, meaning a pleasant bay, in alia- 
 ion to the situation on which it itandi, 
 A 2
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 *'Lusus the loved companion of the God, 
 In Spain's fair bosom fixed his last abode, 
 Our kingdom founded, and illustrious reigned 
 In those fair lawns, the blest Elysium feigned, 
 Where winding oft the Guadiana roves, 
 And Doura murmurs through the flowery 
 
 groves. 
 
 Here with his bones he left his deathless fame, 
 And Lusitania's clime shall ever bear his name. 
 That other chief th* embroidered silk displays, 
 Tossed on the deep whole years of weary days, 
 On Tagus* bank* at last his vows he paid. 
 To Wisdom'* Godlike power the Jove-born 
 
 maid, 
 
 Who fired his lips with eloquence divine, 
 On Tagus' banks he reared the hallowed 
 
 shrine, 
 
 Ulysses he, though fated to destroy 
 On Asia's ground the Heaven-built towers of 
 
 Troy, 
 
 On Europe's strand, more grateful to the skies 
 He bade th' eternal walls of Lisbon rise/ 1 
 
 Lusiad, 4. viii. 
 
 Whoever was the founder of Lisbon, there is 
 n doubt but that a spot so favoured by nature was 
 peopled at an early date. The Carthaginian!
 
 HISTOtlCAL SKETCH. 5 
 
 who swayed for centuries the empire of the sea 
 could not fail to avail themselves of the advan- 
 tages which its noble river and secure harbour 
 offered to a maritime power. Under the Ro- 
 mans, Lisbon was distinguished by the title of 
 Felicitas Julia, as B<-ja was by that of Pax Ju- 
 lia. The title was bestowed upon it by Augus- 
 tus, who also gave it the privileges of a Roman 
 Municipium. From the reign of this emperor 
 nothing worthy of notice occurs till the reign of 
 Honorius, when a horde of barbarians after de- 
 solating the fairest provinces of Italy and Gaul 
 scaled the Pyrenees, and acatte?ed their count- 
 less legions over the Peninsula. 
 
 Lisbon soon attracted the attention of the bar- 
 barians. The terrified inhabitants, following 
 the temporizing policy of Rome, met with a li- 
 milar misfortune. A prodigious sum procured 
 the departure of the foe : the same year wit- 
 nessed his return, and the citj' was given to b 
 plundered. Yet, whatever Lisbon may have 
 suffered from the rapacity of these invaders, sh 
 could not complain of preeminence in disaster \ 
 every city of Spain shared a similar fate. 
 
 The dominion of the Goths in Lusitania lasted 
 two hundred years ; in the beginning of the eighth
 
 4 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 century they were forced in their turn to ubmit 
 to the power of the victorious Mussulmans, who 
 from Mauritania had crossed over into Spain. 
 The Arabians changed the name of the city, 
 which was then called Ulissipo or .Lispo, to IM_ 
 boa\ because, says Castro, in the Moorish Alpha, 
 bet the letter P is not used, 
 
 The first check given to the Arabian power 
 in Portugal was by Don Alfonso, king of Gali- 
 cia and Asturias, surnamed the Chaste, who, 
 with the assistance of Charlemagne, in the year 
 T98, invaded Portugal and invested Lisbon. The 
 besieged after a rrsolute resistance, were com- 
 pelled to yield to the arms of the Christian pow- 
 ers. During a period of near 300 years, the 
 Christians and Moors alternately retained 
 transitory possession of the place, till at length 
 the latter became tributary to Alfonso VI. of 
 Castile, in the yea* IO93. 
 
 In this state of subjection they continued un- 
 der count Kenry, the source of the Portuguese 
 monarchy, bui revolted again under his succet- 
 sor Alfonso Henrique, the first Christian king 
 of Portugal. This prince made many attempt* 
 to reduce Lisbon, but in vain. Being one day 
 on the mountains of Cintra, he descried a fleet 
 f near two hundred sail of English, French and
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCR. 5 
 
 Flemings, under the command of William Long 
 Stvord, making for the Tagus. They weredes* 
 tined for the Holy Land, but had touched here 
 to water, and to repair the damages they bad 
 received at sea. The king made proposals to 
 them to aid him in capturing the city, to which 
 they acceded, and the troops on board amount- 
 ing to 14,000, were drawn up with the Portu- 
 guese forces before the city. During five months 
 the siege continued with great slaughter on both 
 sides, when the confederata troops on St. Ursu- 
 la's day made a desperate assault and carried 
 the city sword in hand. According to Faria, the 
 number of the Infidels slain on this day amounted 
 to 200,000. 
 
 The remains of the foreign troops, who pe- 
 rished during this memorable assault, were bu- 
 ried together in one grave, over which was built 
 the oldest church in Lisbon, that of " Nossa 
 SenhoradosMartyres.' 1 ' 1 Their generous heroism 
 has not been suffered to be forgotten :> every year 
 it is from the altar of that church solemnly re- 
 called to the minds of crowds, who repair thither 
 to assist at the Novena, which precedes the cele- 
 bration of the feast of Our Lady of Martyrs. 
 It is a curious fact, that the first bishop of Lis- 
 
 B
 
 O HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 hon Was an Englishman, whose name was Gil- 
 bert, He had left his native country along with 
 the fleet abovementioned, and after the capture 
 of Lisbon, stayed in Portugal with the English 
 to whom settlements were allotted at Almada, 
 Villa Frant-a, <fcc. For his remarkable talents, 
 piety, and wisdom, Alfonso nominated him to 
 head the list of Lisbon's bishops with the uni- 
 versal approbation of his people. "f 
 
 ^ The conquest of Lisbon was of the utmost 
 importance to the infant monarchy. It is one 
 of the finest ports in the world , and before 
 the invention of cannon was of great strength. 
 The old Moorish wall was flanked by sexenty 
 seven towers, was about six miles in length and 
 fourteen in circumference. When besieged by 
 Don Alfonso, it was, according to some, garri- 
 soned by an army of 200,000 men. This is high- 
 ly incredible, not to say impossible. That it was 
 very strong however and well garrisoned is cer- 
 tain. It is also certain that Alfonso owed the 
 conquest of it to a fleet of adventurers who were 
 going to the Holy Land, the greatest part of 
 whom were English. One Udal ap Rhys, in his 
 Tour through Portugal, says that Alfonso gav 
 thorn Alm.ida on the side of the Tagus opposite 
 to Lisbon, and that Villa Franca was peopled 
 by them, which they called Cornualla, either in 
 honour of their native country, or from the rich 
 meadow* in its neighbourhood, where immensa
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 -t'O.;' 
 
 GREAT FIRE OF 1372. 
 
 From this time, the history of Lisbon pre- 
 sents scarcely any event of importance till tho 
 reign of Ferdinand, towards the close of the 
 fourteenth century when the greatest part of the 
 city was destroyed by fire. 
 
 On the death of Peter the Cruel, king of Cas- 
 tile, king Ferdinand of Portugal laid claim to the 
 vacant throne, as great grandson of Don San- 
 chez. It was however, seized by Don Henrique 
 (he bastard brother of Peter, and his supposed 
 murderer. A bloody war ensued between the 
 two claimants, and raged with great violence for 
 some time : at last, Ferdinand was prevailed, 
 upon to accept the mediation of Pope Gregory 
 XI. and a treaty of peace was solemnly entered 
 into at Evora on the last of March, 1371. Fer- 
 dinand, however, broke through his engagements, 
 repudiated his queen Donna Leonore, the daugh- 
 ter of Henrique, and in defiance of law and 
 common decency, and in open contempt of the 
 
 herds of cattle are kept as in the English 
 Cornwall.
 
 8 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 remonstrances of his subjects, married Donna 
 Leonore Telles de Menezes wife of Joao Lou- 
 rengo da Cunha. Hereupon Don Henrique en- 
 raged to the higbett degree at the insult offered 
 to his daughter, and still farther inflamed by the 
 pressing instances of the wretched husband, who 
 had fled from Portugal and taken refuge in his 
 court, entered Beira with a powerful army, de- 
 claring tli.it he would not sheath his sword till 
 he had t;i km a terrible vengeance. After almost 
 reducing that province to a desert, f he advanced 
 
 "j" The desolation which he caused is thus hinted 
 at by Camoens : 
 
 'The stern Castilian drew the vengeful brand, 
 And strode proud victor o'er the trembling 
 
 land. 
 How dread the hour, when injured Heaven in 
 
 rage 
 
 Thunders its vengeance on a guilty age ! 
 Unmanly sloth the king, the nation stained-, 
 Arid lewdness fostered by the monarch reigned. 
 Such was liis rage for beauteous Leonore, 
 Her from her husband's widowed arms he tore: 
 Then with unblest, unhallowed nuptials stain- 
 ed, 
 
 TV sacred altar and its rights prophaned. 
 A his ! thf? splendour of a crown how vain 
 From Heaven's dread eye to veil the dimmest 
 stain."
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 9 
 
 into Estremadura, and meeting with but a feeble 
 resistance, took possession of the lower patt 
 of Lisbon, and inflicted on its innocent inhabi- 
 tants all the cruelties which a capricious and in- 
 satiable revenge could invent. Finding himself 
 unable to reduce the castle of St. George and its 
 fortified environs, the only part of Lisbon not in 
 his hands he resolved to draw off his forces to 
 some distance : but, before retiring, he destroy- 
 ed the rest of its fortifications and burnt the ci- 
 ty to the ground, "j" This terrible blow humbled 
 the pride of Ferdinand, who had during this 
 time been safely lodged with a small army ia 
 Santarem, and he submitted after some reluctance 
 to the conditions of peace dictated by the con- 
 queror. Returning to Lisbon he ordered its walls 
 to be rebuilt. This work was begun on the last 
 of September 1S73, and terminated in July 
 1375. 
 
 Upon the death of Ferdinand, his queen Don- 
 na Leonore de Telles, assumed the reins of go- 
 vernment, as regent for her daughter Beatrix, 
 
 "I" Some historians assert that Lisbon was set 
 on fire by its inhabitants in order to rid them- 
 selves of its hated invaders, and force Ferdinand 
 to come to terms with Don Henrique. If so,. 
 Moscow had its precedent. 
 
 B 2
 
 10 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 who had been married to the king of Castile. 
 At the same time, however, Don John, the son 
 of Peter and the unfortunate Inez de Castro, was 
 proclaimed in Lisbon. Upon this that ill-fated 
 prince was seized and imprisoned in Spain, and 
 shortly after the king and queen of Castile were 
 proclaimed by Donna Loonore in Lisbon to the 
 great dissatisfaction of the people. This woman, 
 whose character is one of the most infamous in 
 history, so exasperated the Portuguese by her 
 iniquitous rule, and the decided preference she al- 
 ways showed for foreigners, that a report spread- 
 ing through the city that Don John, brother of 
 the late king, and grand master of the order of 
 A vie, had assassinated in the palace her par- 
 amour and chief adviser, (one of her favourites, 
 a Spaniard of the name of Joao Fernandez An- 
 deiro, but' upon whbm she had bestowed the 
 title of Conde de Ourem,)the populace of Lis- 
 Ixm rushed to arms, and meeting the bishop 
 Dou Martinho, who was also a Spaniard and 
 ene of her creatures, they pursued him to the 
 cathedral. Here he mounted the tower, and be- 
 gan to ring the hells, a a signal to the troops 
 to come to his assistance, which so infuriated 
 the populace that bursting violently into the 
 church, thoy hurled him headlong from the top
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 1-1 
 
 of the tower. They then rushed to the palace 
 (now the prison) of Linioeiro, and elected Don 
 John regent by acclamation. Upon this the king 
 of Castile entered Portugal with a powerful ar- 
 my, and besieged Lisbon both by sea and land. 
 The regent although destitute of a fleet,and almost 
 without troops and money, resolved to make a 
 determined stand for his country's liberties. 
 He was indefatigable in his exertions , and ow- 
 ing to a secret correspondance he maintained with 
 several Portuguese who surrounded the Castilian 
 monarch, he anticipated all his attacks with TI- 
 gour and success, and made several sorties which 
 spread the utmost consternation through the camp 
 of the besiegers. He commissioned the Prior of 
 Crato to raise an army in the north and invade 
 Castile, and that brave patriot gained several 
 brilliant advantages over the generals opposed 
 to him. About the same time, a strong squadron 
 which had been equipped in Oporto, sailing out 
 captured several of the enemy's ships, and atlait 
 blockaded the Spanish fleet in the Tagus. The 
 king had now grown weary of the siege, t\hc 
 a pestilential disease appeared in his camp and 
 swept away vast numbers of his troops. Notic* 
 was also brought that Alvarez Pereira, the Lord 
 High Constable, was approaching with a
 
 15 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 strong force from Evora } upon which he broke 
 up the siege in great haste, and covered with 
 ignominy led back the miserable remnants of 
 Jiis army to Spain. In the beginning of April 
 1385, the regent was, by a solemn act of ihe 
 Cortes, assembled at Coimbni, chosen to fill the 
 throne, which was held to be vacant by the im- 
 prisonment of Don John in Castilo, and which 
 A\as declared to have been forfeited by the Cas- 
 tilian monarch, owing to his hostile invasion of 
 the realm. He took the name of Don John I. ; 
 and shortly afterwards gained the famous battle 
 of Aljubarrotn, in which 6,600 Portuguese com- 
 pletely routed 30,000 Castilians, who lost in the 
 battle and the pursuit one third of their entire 
 army. 
 
 DEPARTURE OF VASCO DE CAM A. 
 
 The year 1496 was remarkable for the disco- 
 very of the passage to the East Indies by the 
 Cfipp of Good Hope. The enterprising spirit of 
 the Portuguese had prompted them to under- 
 take voyages along the coast of Africa for a con- 
 siderable time before^ but when they undertook 
 thoir first voyage of discovery, it is probable
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 13 
 
 tiiat they had nothing farther in view than to 
 explore those parts of the coast of Africa, which 
 lay nearest to their own country. But a spirit 
 of enterprise whan roused and put in motion is 
 always progressive ; that which led on the Portu- 
 guese, though slow and timid in its first opera- 
 tions, gradually acquired vigour and prompted 
 them to advance along the western shore of the 
 African continent far beyond the utmost boun- 
 dary of ancient navigation. Encouraged by suc- 
 cess, they became more adventurous, despised 
 dangers which formerly appalled them, and 
 overcame difficulties, which they once deemed 
 insurmountable. When, in the Torrid zone 
 which the ancients had declared to be uninha- 
 bitable, they found rich and fertile countries 
 occupied by populous nations, and perceived that 
 the continent of Africa instead of extending in 
 breadth towards the west, according to the opi' 
 nion of Ptolemy, appeared to contract itself and 
 to bend in eastward, more extensive proipccU 
 opened to their view, and inspired them \vilk 
 hopes of reaching India, by continuing^ toehold 
 the same course. 
 
 After several unsuccessful attempts to accom- 
 plish what they had in view, a small squadron
 
 14 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 sailed from the Tagusf on the 20th. of March, 
 1497, under the command of Vasco da Gama.^ 
 Though the abilities and courage of this officer 
 fitted him to conduct the most arduous enter- 
 
 J" On the brow of the hill which rises from the 
 sands on which the castle of Belem is built is an 
 old chapel in which, it is said, this brave officer 
 and his adventurous companions passed the night 
 previous to their embarkation in prayers for th 
 success of their perilous enterprise , and from that 
 beach they quilted their native land amid the 
 tears and prayers of thousands of their kindred 
 and countrymen, who regarded them as devoted 
 to certain destruction. 
 
 Vasco da Gama was born at Sines, a seaport 
 town of Algarve, and was descended from an 
 illustrious family. Don Emmanuel, as a mark of 
 his esteem for his merit and of gratitude for his 
 services, made him Count of Vidigueira, and 
 conferred the title of *' Admiral of the Indian, 
 Persian and Arabian seas" on him and his heirs 
 for ever. The enterprising admiral set out from 
 the Tagus on a second voyage with a fleet of 
 twenty vessels on the 10th. of February 1502, 
 and after revenging the insults which he had 
 received in his first expedition, bombarding se- 
 veral strongholds, and dispersing numerous fleets 
 of the native princes, he returned with thirteen 
 ships laden with eastern wealth, on the first 
 of September 1508. Don John having named
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 16 
 
 prises, yd as he was unacquainted -with llic 
 proper season and route of navigation through the 
 vast ocean, through which he had to steer his 
 course, his voyage was long and dangerous. At 
 length he doubled that Cape, which for several 
 years, had been an object of terror and of hope 
 to his countrymen. From that, after a prospe- 
 rous navigation, he arrived at the city of Me- 
 linda, whose inhabitants he found to be so far 
 advanced in civilization and the various arts of 
 life, that they carried OH an active commerce, 
 not only with the nations of their coast, but with, 
 remote countries of Asia. Conducted by their 
 pilots, lie sailed across the Indian Ocean, and 
 landed at Calicut, on the coast of Malabar, in 
 1498 four months and two days after hi* depar- 
 ture from Lisbon. 
 
 Here he was exposed to numerous dangers 
 from the open attacks or secret machinations 
 of the Indians } but he extricated himself from 
 
 him Viceroy of the Indies in 1524, he set off 
 thither for the third time, but hardly had he 
 laid siege to Cochin, when he died on Chrisinias- 
 ev, 1525.
 
 16 
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 them all with singular prudence and dexterity, 
 and at last departing with his ships laden not 
 only with the commodities peculiar to that coast, 
 but with many rich productions of the eastern 
 part of India, he arrived in the Tagus two years 
 after he had set out, and disembarked amid the 
 enthusiastic greetings of the whole people of Lis- 
 bon. The discoveries made in this arduous voy- 
 age led the way to all the great results which 
 modern enterprise has effected : whilst to the 
 Portuguese people they opened an avenue to 
 wealth and power of which they had hitherto 
 formed not the most distant conception. Through 
 this channel all the treasures of the East weru 
 poured out for centuries in one unceasing tide 
 on the banks of the Tagus \ and so rapidly did 
 Lisbon thenceforward rise in splendour and com- 
 mercial importance that it soon became one of 
 the richest cities, and busiest ports of any in 
 Europe. 
 
 In thanksgiving for the prosperous termina- 
 tion of this memorable voyage, king Emmanuel 
 built the magnificent monastery and church of 
 Santa Maria de Belem,' ! ?vhich will be fully no- 
 ticed hereafter.
 
 .HISTORICAL SKETCH. 17 
 
 REVOLUTION OF 1640.' 
 
 The next event of importance was the con- 
 spiracy against Spanish domination which broke 
 out in Lisbon on the 1st. of December 1640, 
 and ended in the revolution which seated the 
 Braganza family on the Portuguese throne. 
 
 After the death of Cardinal Don Henrique, 
 who had succeeded the unfortunate Sebastian, 
 no fewer than five candidates laid claim to the 
 vacant throne. These were Philip II. of Castile, 
 the Duke of Savoy, the Prior of Crato, the 
 Prince of Parma, and Don John, the seventh 
 Dukn of Braganza. The people of Lisbon de- 
 claring. for the Prior, he was proclaimed atSaa- 
 tarem, on the 24th. of June 1,580, and imme- 
 diately advancing to the capital, he issued lawj ? 
 coined money, and opened the prisons, as if his 
 claims had been acknowledged throughout fk 
 v> hole realm. He met however a powerful and 
 successful antagonist in Philip of Spain, wh 
 after taking Setubal crossed the Tagus, attacked 
 and defeated his troops, and after forcing him 
 to flee from the kingdom, was solemnly enthron- 
 ed monarch of Portugal in 1581. Philip dyiaj 
 in 1598, left the crown to his soa Philip III., 
 c 2
 
 13 
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 who in the twentieth year of his reign visited 
 his Portuguese dominions : upon which occasion 
 the inhabitants of Lisbon voluntarily incurred 
 an enormous expense in preparations for his re- 
 ception, hoping thereby to conciliate his esteem, 
 and induce him to relax the o liuus oppression, 
 under which they were groaning. He remained 
 among them only four months, and dying in 1621, 
 was succeeded by his son, Philip IV. This prince 
 never once visited Portugal} and it would seem 
 that he and his creatures, in whose hands were 
 placed all the offices of state and posts of rank 
 in this unhappy kingdom, studied to provoke 
 the wrath of heaven, and goad the Portuguese 
 into rebellion by their open and shameless viola- 
 tions, of almost every one of the privileges, which 
 had been solemnly guaranteed to them by his 
 royal grandsire. At last so universal did the de- 
 testation of the Spanish government.become, that 
 a numerous borly of the Portuguese noblt-i en- 
 tered into a conspiracy to throw off the odious 
 yoke. Their measures were taken with the 
 greatest secrecy } they held numerous conferen- 
 ces before they proceeded to action, and it wag 
 agreed that they should, after clearing the pa- 
 lace of the execrated foreigners who had so long
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 19 
 
 tyrannized over them, proclaim Don John, the 
 eighth duke of Brnganza, king, and then unite 
 in one grand effort to expel the Spaniards from, 
 tha country. Having selected the 1st. of Decem- 
 ber, 1640, for the glorious enterprise, they met 
 as soon as it was dark, in tha Terreiro do Patjc, 
 and as soon as the clock struck nine, which was 
 the signal agreed upon, each one attacked the 
 position which had been assigned him with such 
 vigour and success, that in three hours the whole 
 revolution was accomplished. In this short space 
 of time, the Spanish minister, Miguel de Vas- 
 concellos, was seized and put to death :, the queen 
 Regent, who, though a native Portuguese, had 
 been entirely in the interest of the foreigners, 
 was imprisoned in the palace, and forced to sign 
 an order to the governor of the Castle to surren- 
 der it to the conspirators-, Philip IV. was de- 
 posed, Don John proclaimed legitimate and sole 
 king of Portugal, and the Spanish domination 
 overthrown, after it had for sixty years been a 
 scourge to the country. This great event, which 
 placed the present royal family on the throne, 
 is still commemorated by an annual procession 
 in Lisbon on the 1st. of Decenrber.
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 ERECTION OF THE AQUEDUCT. 
 
 Under the wise and politic administration of 
 the new monarch, the whole kingdom, and par- 
 ticularly the capital, recovered by a slow but 
 steady progress from the injuries which had been 
 inflicted on them during the galling tyranny of 
 Spain. The commercial spirit of the people re- 
 ceived a now impulse from the revival of natio- 
 nal indopendance ^ new fleets were equipped ^ 
 and the wealthy resources, that had been for 
 sixty years turned from their natural channel 
 into the insatiable coffers of the Spanish mon- 
 archs,once more flowed into the[exhausted trea- 
 sury of Lisbon. 
 
 But it was not till some years after the death 
 of the a Restaurador," ( as he is to this day 
 styled by the Portuguese) and the succession of 
 his grandson Don John V., that the kingdom 
 regained its pristine power and splendor. Dur- 
 ing the reign of this fortunate monarch Lisbon 
 was enriched and beautified by numerous works 
 in which solidity of materials, artistic embel- 
 lishment, utility of design, and splendour of ex- 
 ecution were equally conspicuous. Of these how- 
 ever, the most stupendous and at the same time
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 21 
 
 the most beneficial was the great Aqueduct, 
 erected for the purpose of conveying the waters 
 of Cintra over the deep valley of Alcantara. This 
 structure had been long in contemplation ^ but 
 its accomplishment was reserved for Don John. 
 V., who laid the foundation of it in the year 1713, 
 and completed it in nineteen years. This noble 
 monumennt of architecture rivals in point of 
 grandeur and magnificence any similar structure, 
 which the ancients havo left us. 
 
 A full description of this brilliant display of 
 royal munificence and native geniua will be 
 given in its proper place. 
 
 In the reign of this same monarch Lisbon was 
 raised to the dignity of a Patriarchate. All the 
 details relating to this interesting subject will 
 be found towards the conclusion of the u Hista- 
 rical sketch." 
 
 THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE OF LIS1OX. 
 
 k 
 
 From the period of the revolution of 1640, 
 
 Lisbon enjoyed comparative quiet, being nei- 
 ther attacked from without, nor disturbed by 
 intestine commotions within, till the y<?ar 1755, 
 when it was almost completely deitroyed by the 
 great earthquake which was felt throughout the 
 D
 
 "* HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 whole of Southern Europe. Five years previous- 
 ly an unusually severe shock had been felt. 
 During the four years that succeeded there 
 was so excessive a drought that several springs, 
 which till then had yielded plentiful streams, 
 were dried up and totally lost ^ the predominant 
 winds were North, and North-east accompanied 
 with frequent though very slight tremors of the 
 earth. The year 1755 proved very wet and 
 rainy ; the summer was cooler than usual, and 
 for forty days before the earthquake, the wea- 
 ther was clear, but not remarkably so. On th 
 1st. of November, early in the moruing, a thick 
 fog arose, but was soon dissipated by the heat 
 of the sun which shone out in its full lustre, 
 and the whole atmosphere became perfectly 
 serene and clear. At thirty-five naiuutes after 
 nine, without the least warning except a rum- 
 bliu<* noise not unlike the artificial thunder in 
 our theatres, a most dreadful earthquake shook 
 by short but quick vibrations, the foundations 
 of the entire city, so that many buildings in- 
 stantly fell. Then , with a scarcely perceptible 
 pause, the nature of the motion changed, and 
 the houses were tossed from side to side, with 
 a noise like that of a waggon violently drawn 
 over rough stones, This second shock laid almost
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 3 
 
 the whole city in ruins, and was attended witk 
 a dreadful loss of human life. The earthquake 
 did not last longer than six minutes. At the 
 moment of its commencement, some persons on 
 the river perceived an extraordinary shock as if 
 their boat had run aground, although they 
 were then in deep water, and to their astonish- 
 ment, they saw the houses falling on both sides 
 of the river. The bar appeared dry from shor* 
 to shore : but suddenly the sea came rolling in, 
 in one mountain wave, and in an instant the 
 water rose to the height of fifty feet. The bed 
 of the Tagus was in several places seen above 
 "the surface. The ships riding at anchor were 
 tossed from their moorings-, some were driven 
 ashore, and some were dashed violently against 
 others. A large newly-built quay with several 
 hundreds of persons who had fled there as to a 
 place of security, sunk and was in a moment 
 covered by the waves. About noon there was 
 another shock, which though less violent than 
 that which had preceded it, yet caused the clefts 
 which had already been made In the walls of 
 the buildings that remained standing, to open 
 and close in a terrific manner.
 
 S4 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 No sooner was the first shock perceived than 
 the inhabitants rushed to the public squares , 
 finding themselves unsafe here, they retired as 
 speedily as they could, out of the city, thege- 
 np.rality taking the direction of Belem. Here 
 they had scarcely time to breathe, when thick 
 clouds of smoke were seen to cover the city, and 
 they discovered to their inexpressible grief and 
 horror, that the city was in flames in almost every 
 quarter. No attempt was made to check their 
 progress :, they raged violently for six days ^ and 
 it may be doubted whether the earthquake or 
 the conflagration causod the greater mischief. 
 
 It was at first thought the fire was acciden- 
 tal ^ but it was soon afterwards discovered that 
 it had been caused hy a band of incendiaries who 
 profited by the calamity to plunder the city. 
 The middle part of the town suffered the most : 
 in the \icinity of Baifo Alto all the Palacios das 
 Merces escaped, and all the houses from the bot- 
 tom of that hill. in which were the residences of 
 the Marquis of Marialva,of the Dutch minister, 
 and of the Conde de Sant-Iago as far as the 
 Una do Korte were cOnu?iejd by the flames. 
 The greater part of th Parish of St. Catharine 
 remained standing. The Bairo de Jesus, Ralo, 
 and Mocambo were equally fortunate, as well
 
 HISTORICAL SK.BTCH. 5 
 
 as that of St. Joseph as far as S. Sebcutiao Act 
 Fedrcira; that of Mowaria as far as Arroyos, 
 all the Bairo do Paraiso, which takes in the 
 large field of Santa C/ara, with its dependen- 
 cies , and lastly all the space that intervenes be- 
 tween this and Marvilla. Even in the heart of 
 the city, where the fire was the most destructive, 
 one or two of the streets escaped. , The churches, 
 which after being damaged by the earthquake 
 were destroyed by the conflagration, were the 
 following : Loyos, Santa Maria, Magdalena. 
 Conceicao, Misericordia, S. Domingos, Patriar- 
 chal, Espirito Santo, S. Francisco, Corpo Santo, 
 Sacramento, Trindade, Loreto, Santa Engracia, 
 Chagas, and S. Paulo. 
 
 The churches entirely ruined by the earth- 
 quake were, S. Vincente, "j" Santa Clara, Sants 
 Monica, N. Seuhora do Monte, N. Senhora da 
 Penha de Franca, the Parish church of the same 
 name, S. Pedro de Alcantara, Santa Anna, Cal- 
 vario, and S. Antonio dos Capuchos. 
 
 Those of the Paulistas, Jesus, and S. Ben to, 
 escaped uninjured ^ but those of the Bernardins, 
 of Madre de Dsos, and the Santos o Velho, though 
 they were not thrown down, yet suffered severely. 
 
 'j" The convent of St. Vincent remained stand- 
 ing and \vas only damaged in its roof.
 
 SO HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 The king, queen and royal family fled from 
 the palace only a few moments previous to its 
 utter destruction. The Spanish ambassador, with 
 nine persons belonging to his family, was bu- 
 ried beneath the ruins of his residence. The only 
 Englishman of note who lost his life in the cata- 
 stiophe was the Rev. J. Manley, President of 
 the English College. 
 
 The losses sustained by the different foreign 
 nations in this deplorable calamity were com- 
 puted at the time to amount to 10,080,000 
 pounds sterling, in the following proportion : 
 
 Pounds sterling 
 The British islands .... 6,400,000 
 
 Hamburgh 1,600,000 
 
 The rest of Germany .... 80,000 
 
 Italy 1,000,060 
 
 Holland 400,000 
 
 France 160,000 
 
 Sweden 120,000 
 
 The rest of Europe 320,000 
 
 Total 10,080,000 
 
 The losses of the Portuguese were immense. 
 To mention a few : in the Royal palace, 
 the Patriarchal, the Custom-house, Sete Cases, 
 and the theatre they amounted to 10,000,000 : 
 in churches and private houses 28,000,OCO: in 
 furniture, stores and other goods 480,000,000 y
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 7 
 
 besides 1,280,000, in church ornaments, sacred 
 vessels, marbles, candelabra, statues and paint- 
 ings : in coined money 1,000,000: in diamonds, 
 jewels and precious stones 4,000,000 :, besides 
 2,000,000 in diamonds belonging to the croxvn. 
 Adding these enormous sums to those lott l>y 
 foreigners, as above stated, we shall find the 
 grand total to amount to L.536, 260,000. 
 
 Out of 20,000 dwelling houses scarcely 3,OOO 
 remained that could be inhabited with safety, 
 and beneath the ruins of those that were thrown 
 down, were buried from 24,000 to 2.5,000 per- 
 sons. 
 
 "We cannot close our sketch of this catastrophe 
 without recording the zealous and energetic ex- 
 ertions of the English nation to alleviate the 
 distress of the wretched sufferers. King George 
 II. no sooner heard of the fatal calamity, than, 
 he sent down a message to Parliament, suggest- 
 ing the propriety of sending speedy succours to 
 th inhabitants of the ill-fated city. This ap- 
 peal to English generosity was nobly and libe- 
 rally responded to :, and a munificent sum was 
 voted out of the public purse for this benevolent 
 purpose-, it was transmitted with all possible dii- 
 patch to Lisbon, partly in money and partly in 
 food, and every variety of stores:, and the latter
 
 28 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 proved to be the most welcome portion of the 
 present. 
 
 REBUILDING OF THE CUT, 
 BY 
 
 THE MARQUIS OF POMBAL. 
 
 Lisbon soon rose from its ruins. Through 
 the energy, talents and persevering exertions 
 of the Marquis of Pombal, the celebrated mi- 
 nister of king Joseph I., those portions of the 
 city, which had apparently received the most 
 irreparable damage, were reconstructed in a 
 modern and quite superior style. The pros- 
 perous state of the finances, owing to the pro- 
 digious sums which were annually drawn from 
 Brazil and the Eastern colonies, enabled the 
 inhabitants to repair the ruined edifices in an 
 incredibly short space of time. The wealth of 
 the court, and the devotion of the citizens soon 
 produced rich palaces, spacious churches, and 
 splendid monasteries in every quarter : whilst in 
 the centre of the town, iiutead of the irregular 
 houses, among which wound narrow, crooked 
 and ill-paved streets, might bo s;-en long and 
 symmetrical rows of buildings, intersected by
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 wide and open thoroughfares, which were bor- 
 dered by neat footpaths, and laid out with taite 
 and method. Thus a temporary disaster washy 
 the genius of Pombal converted into a source 
 of lasting benefit to the capital. 
 
 CONSPIRACY OF 1760. 
 
 The administration of the Marquis of Pombal 
 was not distinguished by the affection which he 
 acquired at home, or the reputation which he ob- 
 tained abroad. It was a tissue of flagrant enor- 
 mities and unparalleled cruelties. To depress 
 the nobility, to acquire an unlimited ascendancy 
 over the mind of king Joseph, and thus to make 
 even the royal authority lubservient to hi* ar- 
 bitrary purposes, to fill every post, military and 
 civil, with his own creatures, and amass an enor- 
 mous fortune outof the confiscated estates of ths 
 victims of his oppression, would seem to have 
 been Lis only aim. He built a great numberof 
 state-prisons, and every one that gave him um- 
 brage was mercilessly immured there, often with-
 
 JU HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 out being even informed of the crime which wa's 
 laid to his charge."!" 
 
 But one of the foulest blots on his moral a* 
 well as his political character was the conspiracy 
 which he formed for the purpose of ruining some 
 of the first families in the kingdom. On the 
 night of the 3rd. of September 1760, the king 
 was attacked in a solitary spot not far from liis 
 country palace near Bcletu by a band of deipt;- 
 radoes, and narrowly escaped assassination at 
 their hands. Hereupon the crafty minister, v. bo 
 'may be said to have owed his long tenure of 
 office to his dcte'dtion of feigned conspiracies, per- 
 suaded the king that the attempted assassination 
 had been plotted by several noble families, who 
 unable to brook the exercise of royal authority, 
 had resolved to fre themselves by this guilty act 
 from his patertial guidance. The weak monarch , 
 
 ] When, upon* the death of king Joseph, -P.om- 
 bal 'Was disgraced, and the fatal prisons were 
 opened, 800 pprson*, who had long before been 
 supposed to have perished, were liberated : they 
 were the miserable remnants of about y ,000 
 victims, whom the minister had buried in his 
 subterranean dungeons, besides numbers that he 
 ent into perpetual exile to Africa and the 
 East.
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. J 1 
 
 disturbed and alarmed by the late outrage, .gave 
 credit to the base fabrication :, and every nofcle 
 family whic!i was obnoxious to the despotic mi- 
 nister, beheld its principal members, of both 
 sexes, either exiled or imprisoned, its estates 
 confiscated, and its name decl.-md infarr.out. 
 Nor was this all: 'tortures wtfre employed to ex- 
 tort from the noble victims a confession of their 
 guilt ; and when this did not succeed to the mi- 
 nister's satisfaction, he fabricated statements 
 which he denominated evidence^ and the ill- 
 fated nobles were condemned to the scaffold. T-he 
 sentence was executed upon them all, and they 
 perished in frightful torments on the quay of 
 Belem on the 13th. of January, 1761. Their 
 bodies were burnt and cast into the Tagug, and 
 their palaces razed to the ground.'}' After the 
 fall of the execrated minister, their innocence 
 
 '"{ The most illustrious of -those families 
 those of-Aveiro and Tavora. The first was .ex- 
 tirpated i the ,second, which, had incurred the en- 
 mity of Pornbal by one of its member* declining 
 an alliance with his son, was stripped of itk titlrs 
 for ever! Persons are still lining mlasbon, who 
 iiave seen the descendants of this oobk Louse 
 in the t>trecti.
 
 35 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 was, after a patient and searching scrutiny, so- 
 lemnly and authentically declared. 
 
 SUPPRESSION OF THE JESUITS. 
 
 Another object of the jealousy of Pombal was 
 the church. Against this he plainly saw th&t 
 he could not deal a ruder blow than by suppress- 
 ing the order of the Jesuits, whose highest en- 
 comium is that they have ever been selected as 
 Objects of attack by the advocates of infideli- 
 1y, and the abettors of tyranny, and by H 
 those who have either, like Pombal, shamelessly 
 upheld despotism in all its naked horrors, or like 
 modern freethinkers in France and elsewhere, 
 disguised their real purpose under the sacred 
 itamesof "Liberty and Constitutional freedom/* 
 The conspiracy which he had framed and de- 
 tocted , afforded him a favourable opportunity for 
 executing his design. Three Jesuits were, accord- 
 ingly , arrested at thp same time with the unfor- 
 tunate nobles } but, in Portugal, the Pope'j Nun- 
 cio had alone the right of pronouncing judgment 
 on the clergy. Pombal instantly appealed to 
 Rome to dispense with this right. Some del;y 
 took place in the reply, and the unscrupulous
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCHT. 33 
 
 minister at once determined to cut the knot. 
 He issued a decree, banishing ALL the Jesuits 
 from the DOMINIONS of Portugal, and con- 
 fiscating their property for the use of the crown. 
 Almost immediately after, he expelled the Pope's 
 Nuncio from Lisbon, and recalled the Portuguese 
 ambassador from the court of Rome } and not 
 content with these acts of rigour, he caused Fa- 
 ther Malagrida.whotnhehad in vain attempted 
 to involve in a charge of treason, to be accused 
 of heresy, and burnt in a solemn Auto-da-ft. j" 
 On the death of Joseph in 1TT7, he fell into 
 disgrace, and though one universal burst of na- 
 tianul execration called for yengeance on his 
 
 j"So absurd and unfounded was the charge of 
 conspiracy which the Marquis brought against 
 the Jesuits, that Voltaire himself bis fellow con- 
 spirator against Christianity and social order, 
 could not but turn it into ridicule. " ; Plaisante 
 oonspiration.' 1 wrote that eaemy of the order, 
 "unique a coup sur dans 1'hUtoire des tousles 
 siecles ! ourdio, tout a la fois par les Capucins. 
 <les marchamls, des nobles, des militaires, des 
 eveques, des Jesuites existanfs a Goa, au Brazil, 
 a Lisbonnn, des AllemamU, des Hongrois, des 
 Polonais, des Italians, des Portugais, &c. S'il 
 lie fut jiunais de mrnson^-^ plus atroce tt plus 
 f.-nsanglante, il non fut pas non plus de plus Dros- 
 sier et de plus ridii-ulf."
 
 34 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 crimes, the queen, out of respect for her father's 
 memory, allowed him to die in peace. He was 
 however banished twenty miles from the court ; 
 and in the year 1782. lie died in his palace at 
 Pombal, in the eighty third year of his age. His 
 unburied remains may still be seen in the con- 
 vent of Busaco. The exemplary virtues of his 
 present descendants favourably contrast with the 
 character which truth has compelled us to draw 
 of this talented but unprincipled statesman. 
 
 In the long and quiet reign of Queen Mary I. 
 Lisbon was enlarged and beautified by the erec- 
 tion' of many public buildings. Of these the 
 most remarkable was the Church and Convent 
 of the Estrella, which in allusion to the royal 
 Foundress is frequently termed by the English 
 residents u the Queen's Church." 
 
 For all thein-teresting details respecting it which 
 we have been able to collect, we refer our rea- 
 ders to that portion of the work which treats of 
 religious edifices. 
 
 It is said that the scrupulous anxiety of the 
 Queen to repair the heavy injustices committed 
 by the minister of the late monarch brought on 
 her the mental disorder which incapacitated her 
 for holding the reins of government, and led to
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 35 
 
 the nomination of her nephew prince John as 
 Regent of the kingdom. 
 
 FLIGHT OF THE COURT. 
 
 The close of the year 1803 presented a nevr 
 and interesting phenomenon in modern history 
 the migration of an European court to a south- 
 ern hemisphere. It had been long a topic of se- 
 rious consideration between the cabinets of Great 
 Britain and Portugal, whether in the case of an 
 actual invasion by France, the Portuguese court 
 might not be advantageously transferred to its 
 dependencies in South America: and the assem- 
 bling of an army of 40,000 men at Bayoimu, 
 for the avowed purpose of invading the territo- 
 rieiofthe house of Braganza, threatened speedily 
 to demand from the prince Regent this weighty 
 lacrifice. In vain had Portugal exhausted the 
 royal treasury, and made innumerable sacrifices 
 to preserve her neutrality : in vain had she closed 
 her ports to the ships of an ancient ally "j" :, the 
 French troops were preparing to march into the 
 interior of the kingdom, and the French ambas- 
 sador having failed in his endeavours to involve 
 
 "j" By the decree for the Exclusion of English 
 hips, dated Liibon, October 22nd. 1807.
 
 36 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 the Prince Rpgent in the war against England, 
 had quitted Lisbon in disgust. These events 
 were noticed to the chamber of commerce for 
 the information of the British factory and the 
 preparations which had been previously begun 
 by them for settling their affairs and withdraw- 
 ing from the country, were now continued with 
 redoubled urgency. The acti\ity and confusion 
 in the Custom House and port of Lisbon were 
 extreme-, the most extravagant terms were de- 
 manded for the conveyance of settlers, wilh their 
 families, to England in vessels but ill adapted 
 for their accommodation, or even for security, 
 raid towards the end of October scarcely any- 
 thing British, except British feelings remained 
 in the country. 
 
 In the mean time the Portuguese navy was 
 prepared \\ith all possible expedition; and con- 
 veniencies and necessaries for a long \oyage were 
 collected, and put on board. Lord Strangford. 
 the British ambassador, was indefatigable in his 
 exertions to confirm the wavering purposeof the 
 court, and effect a speedy embarkation. A strong 
 reluctance, however, to quit his nativa shores wa* 
 in a ui Tested by the prince; and in proportion r5 
 the time approached for a deOnitive decision, t e
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 3/ 
 
 leis inclined did he seem to make the momentous 
 sacrifice. So far, indeed, did his wishes to co- 
 eilute France prevail, that on the 8th of Nov- 
 ember, he signed an order for detaining the few 
 British subjects, and that small portion of Bri- 
 tish property, that still remained in his domi- 
 nions. On the publication of this decree, Lord 
 Strangford demanded his passports, and, present- 
 ing a final remonstrance to the court, proceeded 
 to join the squadron under Sir Sidney Smith, 
 which had been sent to the coast of Portugal to 
 assist in saving the royal family, or, in the worst 
 event, to prevent the Portuguese fleet from fall- 
 ing into the possession of the enemy. A most 
 vigorous blockade of the Tagus was immediately 
 resolved upon , but after a few days the inter- 
 course of the British ambassAdor and the court 
 \vasrenewed, at the request of the former, who. 
 on his proceeding to Lisbon, found all the ap- 
 prehensions of the Prince now directed to a 
 French army,nnd all his hopes to a British fleet. 
 To explain tin's singular change in the politi;> 
 ef the Portuguese court it must be observed, that 
 in the interval between the departure and the 
 return of Lord Stranecford, the Prince had re- 
 
 O f 
 
 ceived intelligence that Bonaparte had fulmi- 
 nated agaimt him one of tboe edicts which ha J. 
 f
 
 00 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 almost invariably been followed by the subver- 
 sion of thrones. The proclamation that 4i th 
 house of Braganza shall cease to reign "f had 
 gone forth, and to this alarming denunciation, 
 which cut off all hopes of compromise, even by 
 the most humiliating submission, was to be as- 
 cribed the complacency, with which the renewed 
 intercourse with England was accepted. Sogrcat 
 uas the agitation exhibited by the court, that 
 it now manifested as much avidity to accomplish 
 the enterprise, as it had previously shown he- 
 sitation and reluctance towards it. The inter- 
 view with the English ambassador took place 
 on the 27th. of November, and on the morning 
 of the 29th. the Portuguese fleet sailed out of 
 the Tagus with the whole of the royal family 
 f Braganza, and a considerable number of faith- 
 full counsellors, and respectable and opulent ad- 
 herents. The fleet consisted of eight sail of the 
 line, four large frigates, and several other ves- 
 sels of war, besides a number of merchant ships, 
 and amounted in all to thirty six sail, contain- 
 ing about 18,000 Portuguese subjects. 
 
 f The Moniteur of the llth. of November, 
 1807,
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 3j) 
 
 So critical was the juncture that before the; 
 Portuguese fleet quitted the Tagus, they reo;;-- 
 mzed the French army, under General Junot, 
 with their Spanish auxiliaries, on the heights 
 above Lisbon, and on the following ilav, the in- 
 vaders entered the capital without opposition. ]" 
 
 THE FRENCH EVACUATE LISBON. 
 
 From the deep rooted aversion of the Portu- 
 guese to the French, Junot soon discovered that 
 his situation in Lisbon was by no means desira- 
 ble, and that all his exertions would be required 
 to preserve the public tranquillity. By the con- 
 stant blockade of the port the inhabitants 
 began to experience much inconvenience, and 
 were threatened by all the horrors of famine. 
 
 "I" On the arrival of the French and Spanish 
 army on the Portuguese frontier the invaders 
 wrote to the Marquis of Alorno, the comman- 
 dant of Elvas, to enquire whether they were to 
 be u received as friends or as enemies?" to which 
 the Marquis laconically replied : 
 
 ''Sir, We are unable to entertain you as 
 friends, or to resist you as enemies, Yours, &c. 
 
 ALORNO."
 
 40 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 Trade was entirely destroyed :, money was so 
 scarce that there was no sale for any goods but 
 those of (he most pressing necessity ; scarcely any 
 Merchants paid their bills, or accepted those 
 which were drawn upon them :, the India House 
 -was olused ^ and every thing bore the appearance 
 of gloom and despondency. From all thesp causes 
 the minds of the people were excited to an ex- 
 treme state of irritation ', disturbances frequent- 
 ly took place in the city ^ and in the surrounding 
 country assassinations were daily committed. 
 The hoisting of the French colours aroused the 
 pupulace against their invaders:, and the soldier* 
 ^vere obliged to fire repeatedly upon them be- 
 fore they could be compelled to disperse. 
 
 It is highly probably, however, that the French 
 force would have eventually brought the inhabi- 
 tants of Lisbon under complete subjection, had 
 i ut the general and determined opposition of the 
 Spaniard* to JBona parte's views, the rising in the 
 liortb of Portugal, the revolt of th* city of Oportc 
 and the disembarkation of a powerful English 
 fore* under Sir Arthur Wellesly in Mondee< 
 l-ay, fortunately conspired to set them free. The 
 1-itle* of Roleia, aud Virniera were now fought 
 
 7 o 
 
 ; i.;l by the French \ and the fatal and dis-
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 41 
 
 graceful convention of Cintra was signed , and 
 the invader* and plunderers of Portugal with all 
 their booty, public and private, were allowed to 
 be transported at an enemy's cost to their native 
 shores. On the 15th. of September 1808 Lisbon 
 was completely freed from the presence of the 
 execrated French, who for ten months had 
 devastated the country with fire and sword, plun- 
 dered its wealth, destroyed or carried off its artis- 
 tic productions, desecrated its temples, and de- 
 moralized its inhabitants, "{" 
 
 CONSTITUTIONAL CODES. 
 
 In the absence of the court the affairs of go- 
 vernment were conducted by a Regency, named 
 by John VI. which consisted of five members. 
 The French in their progress through the Pe- 
 ninsula had industriously spread revolutionary 
 principles. Up to this period Portugal had bee 
 ruled by hereditary monarchs, whose power 
 was controlled by a National representation, 
 
 "I" The total number of French troops, 4' c - 
 embarked from Lisbon in virtue of the conven- 
 tion of Cintra, amounted to $4,635 men. 21. 'i 
 women, 116 children, and 759 horses. 
 
 ''
 
 4 HISTORICAL SKETCHT. 
 
 consisting of Clergy, Nobility, and People, culled 
 the Three Estates of the realm. Th nobles and 
 the higher orders of the clergy were "horn repre- 
 sentatives }" the people sent their deputies elected 
 by th cities and towns. They wer* called to- 
 gether and dissolved at the Royal pleasure, "f 
 
 "I" They were first summoned in 1 143 by Alfonso 
 Henriques, the founder of the monarchy, and 
 have been generally termed the Cories of Lame- 
 o. As proofs of the power vested in these re- 
 presentatives from the earliest time:, and of the 
 noble spirit of national freedom and independauc* 
 which characterised its exercise, the Englishman 
 will read with pleasure the follow ing extracts 
 !Yom their history. 
 
 In 1143, after they had proclaimed Alfonso king 
 sndiworn allegiance to him,Lourenc,o Viegas(the 
 speaker) then said, " Do you wish that the king 
 Our Lord should go to the Cortes of (he king 
 of Leon, or pay tribute to him or to ar>y other 
 person, except the pope, who confirme-l him in 
 the kingdom?" And they all arose, hoi. iingthc-ir 
 iaki--d swords in their hands, and stauiing up, 
 ihey said, u We are free our king is free ; 
 our own hands freed us, and the Lord who shall 
 consent to any such thing, shall die, and if hi 
 should be the king, he shall not reign over 
 us.'* And the king again rose up, ,ind with 
 the crown on his head, said to all; "You know 
 many battles I have fought for your free-
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 43 
 
 Whatever may have been the evils of the an- 
 tient regime, and however 'liable to occasion* I 
 abuse the power which it conferred OB the sove- 
 reign, still it cannot be denied that under ittlx 
 Portuguese had been on the whole an united auJ 
 happy people. Under it had passed the palmy 
 
 dom , of this you were good witnesses, and io 
 also are my arms and sword. If any one shouli 
 tonsent to do so, he shall on that account die, 
 and if it should be a son of mine, or a grandson, 
 let him not reign." And they all said u Gou*l 
 pledge, let him die. The king, if he should a:t 
 so as to consent to a foreign dominion, shall not 
 rsign, &c.". 
 
 Again, when Don Alfonso IV. succeeded tothe 
 throne, he so far addicted himself to the plea- 
 sures of the chace as to sacrifice to it all atten- 
 tion to his royal duties. Entering the council- 
 chamber on one occasion, he related with much 
 pride a long and circumstantial account of his 
 hunting feats, when one of the members of th; 
 Cortes thus addressed him : "Sire, the Cor- 
 tes and camps, not woods and deserts -were mado 
 for kings: when they are lost in amusements, 
 a grievous injury isdone to public business:, ami 
 that nation is hastening to utter destruction 
 whose sovereign is more intent ou his pleasures 
 than on the duties which he owes to his people. 
 We arc not here assembled to listen to an ac- 
 count of your fitM sports, which may be all
 
 44 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 days of their history, and with it were linked 
 the glorious feats of their enterprising and chi- 
 valrous forefathers. But the new philosophy of 
 France here, as well as in other countries, sa- 
 cretly but effectually gained ground. The first 
 attempts at innovation were unsuccessful, and 
 
 glorious in their way, hut deserving only the 
 applause of hunters. If your highness be desi- 
 rous of relieving the necessities of your people, 
 and of correcting existing a!>usps, you will find 
 in them humble and obedient vassals, if not " . . 
 The king, stung by this insinuation, angrily 
 answerd," If not, what then?" If not, "replied 
 the member in the same tone as before "they will 
 chose another king. 1 " On this Don Alfonso lost 
 all patience, and after venting bis indignation 
 in the most violent language, rushed out trans- 
 ported with fury. But he shortly returned, 
 calmed and tranquil, and said to them : "I have 
 found what you said to be true : he who governs 
 not as a king, cannot long possess subjects. From 
 this day forward you shall find me not Don Al- 
 fonso the hunter, but Alfonso the king of Por- 
 tugal." 
 
 As another proof of the truly patriotic spirit 
 i>ft be ancient Cortes, we may mention that tke 
 Cortes of Thomarat the moment when the Cas- 
 tilian yoke was firmly established, had the cou- 
 rage to petition the first Philip " to reside among 
 them, as much as he could," to which he gave
 
 .HISTORICAL SKETCH. -4 
 
 those who prominently engaged in them fell 
 martyrs to the cause. In the year 1818, on tb* 
 13th. of October General Gomes Freire de An- 
 drade was hanged in the Tower of S. Juliau. 
 ,'xnd some others at the Campo de Santa An- 
 na for attempting to effiet a revolution., Thrte 
 years later a fresh attempt was made and suc- 
 ceeded. On the 24lh. of August 1820 the Con- 
 stitution was first proclaimed at Oporto, and on 
 the 15th. of the following month in Lisbon. 
 The Regency was dissolved, and in the name of 
 
 answer in these words j "I will endeavour to 
 satisfy you." 
 
 The most important and celebrated meetings 
 ofthe Cortt-s w*re in the years 1145, when they 
 swore allegiance t Alfonso Henriques \ in 1386 
 when they proclaimed Don John, Master of Avis, 
 and did him Homage tufne exclusion of the kin* 
 and quern of Castile ^ in 1640 when they ele- 
 vatt-d Don John IV. from the Dukedom .of 
 Drapiiiza to the throne, after the yoke of tli 
 Castilian Philips had been shaken off: and lastly, 
 in 1828, when Ih'-y drclared Don Pedro an'd 
 his dcMTiidjiiits xi-liid'd from the crown and Don 
 Miguel called therflo, &c ! 
 
 It (iu'S not sc*'in probable that these oWCorte* 
 will be ever again summoned:, hence perhaps these 
 T< w notices ofthe national representation under 
 the ancient regime may not be uninteresting-fa 
 the English reader. 
 
 Q
 
 46 HISTORICAL SEETCK. 
 
 ihking, who was at Rio Janeiro, a provisional 
 junta was established. 
 
 The first efforts of the newly installed govern- 
 ment were directed to frame a code in harmony 
 with the new views. It was proclaimed and 
 sworn to on tha llth. of November following. 
 In the year 1822 the king returned from Brazil, 
 and on the very day of his landing was made 
 to swear himself the First Citizen of the king- 
 dom. 
 
 The fundamental change that had taken place 
 .in the government was followed by very mate- 
 rial changes in almost all the laws and iiu>litu- 
 tions of the country. Th*B changes WITS cm- 
 bodied in what was termed the " Nova Ley 
 Fundamental," which was proclaimed and sworn 
 to in 1822. By this code the sovereignty was 
 declared to reside essentially in the people, and 
 the title of Majesty was given to the Cortee,. 
 But before these novel experiments in legisla- 
 tion had time to take root in the affections of 
 the people, who could not be maJe to understand 
 what tlu-y had gained liy the ciiange, an end 
 was put to them by a counter-revolution brought 
 about by the king's s--cond son Don Miguel, 
 wiio was CominitndiT-ifi-Cliiff of the army.
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 47 
 
 In the year 1824 was beheld ,tbe novel spectacle 
 f the Portuguese king seeking refuge oi boar<2 
 an English ship of the line (ths Windsor Cast!*} 
 from a real or feigned conspiracy. . How far the 
 Infante Don Miguel was innocent or guilfy in 
 the affair, his friends and his foes are not agreed, 
 but before the king left his asylum, he signed a 
 decree for expatriating hU *on, who was con- 
 veyed in a Portuguese frigate to Brest, wiene 
 he went to Vienna, in which city he continued 
 till after the death of his father, which hap- 
 pened in March 1826. 
 
 The nt-xt phase of this eventful period was 
 the regency of Donna Izabel Maria, who shortly 
 after received from her brother Don Pfdro, thejfc 
 Emperor of Brasil, what afterwards proved a* 
 apple of discord for this unhappy country, UJP 
 CONSTITUTIONAL CHARTER, of which 
 our minister Sir Charles Stuart was ihehojirir. 
 Then followed the return of Don Wig'.)*-! in 
 February 1827, and his. trampling on the Char- 
 ter, as well as on the claims of his niece Donna 
 Maria to whom her father Don Pedro had mar'j 
 over whatever rights he himself possessed to the 
 crown of Portugal. The war of succession civ- 
 sued : which commencing in the i&Unr] of Tfrcei'. 
 in iSiO^contTnued with varied success to tf<
 
 48 
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 contending parties, but invariably to the preju- 
 dice of the country at large, till the year 1833, 
 when the Duke of Terceira, having landed in 
 Algarve with 2,500 men, rapidly marched lit 
 Cagilhas, and on the 24th. of July entered Li*- 
 bon, which the Duke of Cadaval, the timid com- 
 mander of the forces in the city, had precipi- 
 tately abandoned the night previous. The war 
 itill lingered on for some months, till the arm* 
 cf Donna Maria, supported ly the Quadruple 
 alliance, finally prevailed, and Don Miguel wa* 
 compelled to sign the convention of Evoramonte, 
 Mid to quit the kingdom. 
 
 The events that succeeded are too well known 
 "to reqnire that we should detail them in the 
 present sketch : we shall therefore conclude by 
 pointing out the prominent features of the "Con- 
 stitutional Charter," as it em;tnat?d from the 
 hands of Don Pedro in April 1826, previous 
 4.O the numerous remodelling* which have ub- 
 JM quciitly been made in its provisions. 
 
 By this Charter^ I. the sovereignty, which by 
 the Constitution of 1822 w declared to ** reskf* 
 feisenlially in the Peiple,^* was restored to the 
 crown, and the monarch thus became something 
 wore than the First Citizen of the Realm :
 
 HISTORICAL CXCTCH. 4t9 
 
 *. a new National Representation was esta- 
 blished, consisting of two chambers (Camaras), 
 one of Deputies, who were to be elected indi- 
 rectly by the People, and another of Peers, he- 
 reditary and for life: 3. to the three Powers 
 ( Legislative ', Executive, Judicial,) was added a 
 fourth, called the " Moderating Power, ( Foder 
 Mcderador,] which was vested in the sovereign, 
 and gave him an "absolute Veto" upon all 
 public measures. 
 
 SEE OF LISBON. 
 
 In the 1393, the Sep. of 'Lisbon was raised to 
 an A rc-lil) islmpriv \>y a Bull of Pope Boniface IX. 
 Up to that period thirty eight Bishops had worn 
 the mil re. Twenty three Archbishops succes- 
 sively governed this See from the close of the 
 fourt'-.-nth to th* commencement of the eigh- 
 teenth century. Towards the end of the reign 
 of Don John V., the GMen Jge of Portugal, 
 the Archbishopric, *t the recjuebt of that monarch, 
 was divided, fiy a Bull of 1'opi- (.'']> merit XI, dated 
 Nov. 7th. 1716, into two dioce si s, and the west- 
 ern was constituted a Patriarchate , 
 
 G 2
 
 HISTORICAL SXETCK. 
 
 division of the old diocese was also raised fo an 
 Archbishopric; numerous inconveniencrs, how- 
 ever, arising from this arrangement, the same 
 sovereign begged Pope Benedict XIII. to sup- 
 press the Archbishopric. The Pope acceeded to 
 the request-, and by a Bull, dated September 1st. 
 1741, ordered that there should be but one See, 
 with the title and privileges of a Patriarchate, 
 and that there should be only one Chapter, which 
 should be attached to the Basilica cle Santa Ma- 
 ria Maior."j" On this Chapter the Pope conferred 
 the most ample privileges and dignities; and 
 the entire economy of tho establishment was 
 framed on a scale of magnificence and splendor, 
 surpassed only by that of Rome. Indeed, it has 
 been said with truth, that the Patriarchal Ba- 
 silic of Lisbon was in most respects a miniature 
 of the Vatican. 
 
 iffhis church was destroyed by the earthquake ; 
 and the chapter was in consequence removed to 
 Belern' where it continued till 1834 when it was 
 tr.irisforred to the cathedral or "Old See," where 
 it still remains. 
 
 Our readers will be able to form some idea 
 of its ancient splendour by the following account.
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 The suffragan bishoprics of Lisbon are those 
 of Lciria, Lamego, Guarda and Portalegre, be- 
 sides others beyond the seas. 
 
 The present Cardinal Patriarch of Lisbon is 
 Don Guilherme Carvalho, who was raised from 
 
 as given by Father Castro, of its annual revenues 
 ^ 
 
 Ancient endowment .... 30,005,560 Rs. 
 
 Tributes of Bishoprics and 
 
 benefices .......... 94,982,512 
 
 Rents of churches, houses, 
 
 and reclaimed lands ..... 31,474,717' 
 
 Forfeitures and purchases . . 250,843,880 
 
 Total 407,306,669 
 or in English money L.I 14,5.54 18s. 6d. 
 
 In this estimate the establishment of the Pa- 
 triarch, which was very considerable on account 
 of his groat dignity, was not included. At tho 
 lowest computation we may state it to have been 
 thirty thousand pounds per annum. Thus the 
 total amount of the establishment of the Patri- 
 archal church would be one hundred and forty 
 four thousand, five hundred and fifty four pounds, 
 eighteen shillings, and six pence. But, icmpora 
 mutant it i- ! the princely prelate has dwindled in- 
 to a dependant of a poverty -stricken government ; 
 and the present income of the Patriarchate of Lis- 
 bon, including that of the Patriarch himself, the 
 Cathedral, the Dean and Chapter, together 
 with all the clergy of the Diocese., does not
 
 b* HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 the bishopric of Loiria fo tins metropolitan teo, 
 nd was solemnly installed in the yfar 1845. 
 
 ILLUSTRIOUS MEN. 
 
 Lisbon has given birth to riiinibcrs of indivi- 
 duals, who have rffl<ittd lustre upon her name. 
 For the holiness of thrir lives, nnd I heir enlight- 
 ened and diMntrrested ?,(! fur religion were 
 illustrious a St Ai.thony, Mimaim d of Padua, a 
 St. Alvaro de Cordova, a 81. Oljoipio, a Bar- 
 th^lomew do Mrt^ril>us, n IVciro N jj;les, and 
 a Thadfti. whu ws slyh-d "Th^ Apofctleofthe 
 Canary IsK-s/' In Scholaklic flnd Moral Theo- 
 logy ft-w havf I " ii n 10 re c< It lir;it<'d than Don 
 Andre d'Alina^la, whose nias^rly (realise tv De 
 Incarnatioiu 1 " has fv-r neen gn^itly ^tc(hi?d: 
 a Fr. Francisco Foniro, who collated the 
 
 amount tn tin? nnnna] r^vfiuu's of tlx- pnorest 
 bishopric of tti< Chnrrh <>f Kngland. The \ast 
 sums ahuvi iii,'i:ti<iiii'<!, as \v- 11 .is tiiin'-ti-nth* of 
 the Clnirrh property thiDiigluiut Portugal have 
 been sxvpt info th<- ci.ffTs nl'th' 1 stale \ luit fiom 
 the rapid it)rr>'ase df the n.itimiiil lit It it vvoiilfl 
 soern th.it whil- th'- Chnrc-li h-is hi-m degpuiled 
 and drgradfd, thu state hub gaiiied liltlu hy the
 
 HlSTOIUCiL 
 
 55 
 
 Partuguese translation of the Scripture with the 
 Hebrew, or a Fr. Joao de S. Thomas, who on 
 account of his numerous learned works has been 
 Ityled Use St. Thomas of his age. For an in- 
 timate acquaintance with Ascetic or Mystic 
 Theology, Fathers Alexander de Guwnan, M- 
 noel Bernardes, and Manoel truilherme were 
 justly celebrated by their contemporaries. Lis- 
 bon has also produced several eminent orator?, 
 buth sacred and profane, the most eminent of 
 whom \ere P. Antonio Vieira and Fr. Timotheo 
 Je Ceabra. Luiz Camoens,the Epic poet of Lu- 
 eitania,was also a native of this city. 
 
 J" Lniz de Camfifs was born in 1517, and >vai 
 descended from a noble family originally Spanish. 
 At an early age he lost his father by ship- 
 wreck ; after which his mother, though poor 
 Bent him to the university. Afterwards his ta- 
 lents gained him favour at court ^ but some of 
 hi uncourtly satires caused his banishment 
 from Lisbon. In his retirement at Siintaremhe 
 commenced his Lusiad^ but, his ardent tcmpp- 
 rament ill brooking inactivity, he joined an ar- 
 mament fitted out by John 111. to succour Ceuta 
 in Africa, and in an action with the Moors he lust 
 an eye. While in the camp, he continued his 
 great work, when, as his muse sings, 
 "One hand the pen, and one the sword employed*' 
 
 The heroism which he displayed in variou*
 
 ' 4 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 Mere alt* were born Antonio Barboso B- 
 
 *lar, Antonio Perreira, Estevao Rodrigurs de 
 Castro, Don Francisco de Mello, Fr.Manoel de 
 5. Joze, all diititiguishcd cultivators of the Lyric 
 
 expeditions restored him to the favour of the 
 court, but intrigue blasted his prospects, nd in 
 1553, disgusted with Lisbon, he sailed for India, 
 sighing his adieu in the words of Scipio Africa- 
 nu' epitaph, -'Ingrata Patria, non possidebis 
 *ia mea !" Here again he lost by his satires 
 what he had gained by his genius } and was ex- 
 iled to China. His next appointment was to a 
 oemmissariat in the island of Macao, where he 
 prosecuted his literary labours in peace. Having 
 acquired a small fortune, he sailed again for Goa v 
 but the ship was wrecked, and he saved nothing 
 but his poem,fwhich, like another Caesar, he held 
 above the waves with his right hand, swimming 
 with his left to the banks of the Mahon. At 
 )ast reaching Goa,hc soon conciliated the friend- 
 ship of the viceroy, Don Constantine da Bra- 
 ganza, and during his administration spent the 
 happiest days of his chequered life. But perse- 
 cution and imprisonment ensued under the new 
 viceroy Rodondo 1 , and at last he quitted the east 
 forever, bringing with him his poems as his on- 
 ly treasure. Dedicating his Lusiud to king 
 Sebastian, he published it in Lisbon, in 1572 
 and from this prince received a pension of 4000 
 reals, But fortune did not long smile upon him; 
 and he had to depend for subsisti.-r.ee on alms,
 
 55 
 
 Muse. Some of the best historians of Portugal, 
 as Antonio Paes Veigas, P. Balthasar Ti-llea, 
 Fr. Bernardino da Silva, Diogo de Couto, and 
 iu late years the Visconde d Santircm,'}' were 
 
 collected hy a faithful bl:ick servant, who had 
 been his constant attendant abroal. Chagrin and 
 poverty hastened his death, which happened in 
 1574. His devotion to his country was faithful 
 to the last. In one of his letters h<- writes : "Em 
 flrn acabarei a vida, e verao tocios que fui uffei- 
 ooado a minh:i patrin." 
 
 Camoes was a chivalrous warrior, and a great 
 poet ^ his Lusiad translated into most European 
 languages, has raised him high in the rank of 
 Epic authors, and will eternise his name iu the 
 annals of poetic literature. 
 
 "j" The chief works of this highly talented and 
 patriotic nobleman are : tl Memorias para a His- 
 teria e Theoria das Caries Geraes,que em Por- 
 tuyalse celebrdruo.pelos Tres Estados do Reino, 
 vrdenadase compostas no anno de 1824, Sfc. t^c." 
 and " Quadro Elementar das Relates Politiqas 
 * Diplomatic as de Portugal com as divcrsas po- 
 ttncias do mundo, fyc. ffcf'"' The first of the; 
 works is an abridgement of the history of insti- 
 tutions, constituting the pride of the Portuguese, 
 in the best period of their history. Clear, con- 
 tise, and supported by th best authorities, it is 
 a work of patient industry ami unwravied re- 
 search, stimulated by a laudabls atfibiticn and
 
 "56 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 ?l*o born in Lisbon. The same city or its vici- 
 nity has given birth to two Royal Muakiam, 
 D. John V. and D. Pedro IV. whose composition! 
 have been deemed perfect master pieces by cau- 
 iid critics. One of the favourite pieces of the 
 latter, the u Hytnno da Charta," is certainly 4 
 rich and soul-stirring melody. 
 
 The second of the Popes, to which Portugal 
 has given birth, was born in Lisbon, in the p 
 ?ih of St. Julian, and \vas successively created 
 Archdeacon of Vermium, Prior of Guimaraes, 
 and finally Archbishop of Braga, when he w* 
 r 2 rued Cardinal along -with St. Bona venture, by 
 Pope Gregory X. in the general council of Leon 
 in 1274. He succeeded Adrian V. in the pon- 
 tifical chair, and took the nnme of John XX. 
 r, according to others, XXI: the difference 
 arising from the exclusion by some authors of 
 Jhe Antipope John X VIII . from the list of pop*. 
 The new pope did not long enjoy his honour* : 
 he was taken ill at Viterbo, and owing to & 
 
 -nt of proper medical treatment, expired in 
 *x dayi in May 1?77 : having reigned tigbi. 
 
 guided by profound learning, and proves that the 
 >-oble author wit a complete master of hi diffi- 
 cult eubject.
 
 STIS.TOU1CAI, SKETCH. 17 
 
 .mouth i. He was contemporary with Don Al- 
 fonso III.- was a munificent patron of literature', 
 and wrote several works. 
 
 We should be guilty of a gross omission were 
 we not to mention the two most eminent living 
 writers in Lisbon at the present day, in fact the 
 only ones of any considerable eminence Almei- 
 da Garrett and Antonio Feliciano de Castilho. 
 
 The former is of Irish extraction, and has 
 highly distinguished himself by his talent in de- 
 bate and by his cultivation of the muses. Hei 
 a member of many literary societies, and it 
 looked up to by his countrymen as an oracle in 
 histrionic criticism. 
 
 The history of the latter is so remarkable that 
 it will plead our apology for introducing him by 
 a more circumstantial account to the acquain- 
 tance of the reader. , 
 
 Antonio Feliciano de Castilho was born In 
 Lisbon in the year 1800, of a family in which 
 the love of literature is hereditary. At threa 
 years of age he had the misfortune to be so far 
 deprived of sight as to be able only to distin- 
 guish very brilliant colours from dark ones, but 
 not to see the forms of the objects that are pre- 
 *ented to him, and consequently he haj never
 
 48 
 
 learnt lo read. It was at first believed thai thi 
 calamity would bean effectual bar to all literary 
 pursuits in the young Castilho. But a dcci'led 
 passion for study which early developed itself, 
 and the extraordinary talents with which he 
 was gifted, overbalanced this natural defect. lie 
 attended all the lessons which were given to his 
 brothers^ and with no other means than that of 
 oral instruction, so rapid was his progress as to 
 be a subject of astonishment to his masters. At 
 fifteen years of age the blind youth had com- 
 pleted a preparatory course of Grammar, of Rhe- 
 toric, of History, of Philosophy, of the Greek 
 language, and what is still more surprising, of 
 Geometry. 
 
 With the help of his fondly attached brother Au- 
 gustu&F. de Castilho, who afterwards entered ho- 
 ly orders, he made himself acquainted with all the 
 classic authors ancient and modern, both of bis 
 own and other countries. His poetical genius dis- 
 played itself as narly as his thirteenth year in 
 several Latin poems, which excited general ad- 
 miration. Shortly after he composed, in his na- 
 tive tongue, an elegy on the death of Queen 
 Mary I. But he was far from dedicating all his 
 tlm to the Muses : he applied himself to Bota-
 
 My, History and Physics, and wont through a 
 complete course of law in the university of Co- 
 inibra. "Whilst engaged in this last study, he 
 composed his first essays on pastoral poetry, 
 '' The letters of Echo and Narcissus^ and "a 
 Poem on Spring." The first of these works went 
 through four editions in the course of a few years:, 
 and this be it remembered in Portugal. Hi* 
 brother having been nominated to an incum- 
 bency in a romantic part of the country, our 
 author accompanied him to this retreat:, whore 
 in the enchantment of solitude, and amid the 
 beauteous scenes of nature, all which he saw 
 through the eyes of his brother, he continued 
 without interruption his literary labours. He 
 translated into Portuguese the Metamorphose? of 
 Ovid, and the greater part of the tragedies of 
 Ducis. We should, have mentioned that he is 
 a perfect master of the French and other living 
 languages. Here also he published a pot-m en- 
 titled ' A Nonte do Castillo", (The KigUoftke 
 Castle) and a variety of other pieces. 
 
 . Castilho has been married twioe. The history 
 of his first marriage had in it something of ro- 
 mance. A young lady with a very long name, 
 Donna Maria Izabel da Bucnna Coimbra For-
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 t-,gal,had been placed under the tuition of the 
 Benedictine nuns at Variao, four leagues from 
 Oporto. After finishing her education, the re- 
 mained lor some time in the convent, and in the 
 interval enthusiastically applied herself to the 
 perusalof th ancient and mo lern classics. Some 
 of the works of Castilho fell into her hands, 
 among which were *' the Utters of Echo and 
 Narcissus." After reading this work she ad- 
 dressed; to the author who was then at Coimbra, 
 u letter which contained only these words, "If 
 there were found an Echo, would you imitate 
 Narcissus?" The answer of the poet was not cal- 
 culated to undo the impression which the reading 
 of his works had made. A very active correspon- 
 dence ensued ; though for some months Castilhe 
 -.vas entirely in the dark who his fair correspon- 
 dent was, as in her letters she had been careful 
 to assume a feigned name. Their letters became 
 nt length more and moro expressive ^ and Cas- 
 tilho discovered between himself and the Echo 
 such a sympathy of character and similarity of 
 tastes, that hi- wag persuaded, that his happiness 
 or niTi'ry depended on her rospon*. s. Hiidhe en- 
 trratingly begg'-d a disclosure of h r real name. 
 Hi* r itrratnd prayers were at 1< i . ' ' heard ; he
 
 MIITOEIC1I IKSTCH. $1 
 
 obtained the desired interview, and they wert 
 shortly afterwards married in the year 18S4. 
 Their happiness was of short duration : a pre- 
 mature death snatched her from him in the year 
 1837. He consecrated to her memory a poem 
 which may challenge a place by the side of the 
 most touching verses of Petrarch. 
 
 The second lady who gave her hand to Castilho 
 was Miss Charlotte Vidal, a person of distinguish- 
 ed talents, and well acquainted with the languages 
 of Northern Europe. In the midst of a poetical 
 circle she may be seen reading and translating th 
 Bards of Scandinavia^ and her most delightful 
 occupation is to pen down the effusions of the poet 
 of her choice. It is with great pleasure that the 
 writer of these pages, who has had the honour 
 of their acquaintance during several years, pays 
 them this tribute of his respect.
 
 
 
 First view of the City the River Cova da 
 
 Piedade General features of Lisbon. 
 
 - Streets-~-Cleanlines$ Environs' 
 
 South side cf ike Tagus. 
 
 What beauties doth Lisboa first unfold, 
 Her image floating on that noble tide 
 Which poets vainly pave -with sands of gold! 
 
 Ckilde Harold. 
 
 The view that meets the eye on entering the 
 Tagus has been justly celebrated. It is even su- 
 perior in one respect to that of Naples, to which 
 it has often been compared. The latter indeed 
 strikes by the sudden and imposing display of its 
 broad panorama ^ while the former unfolding new 
 beauties as the stranger advances, each moment 
 increases his interest in the scene it present*. 
 The dark blue river, the finest body of water 
 on the old continent, the banks with their dis-
 
 Off TMS CITY. $ 
 
 mantled forts, or straggling villages and GLuin- 
 tas, to the left the blue rocks of Cintra, on 
 the right the Arrabida mountains extending along 
 the far horison to the sea and Cape Espii-hel -, 
 Belem with its old tower,associaled with th 
 names of Emmanuel the Great anil Vasco da 
 Gama, and in later years the darksome prison 
 of the last duke of Aveiro, and the Countess of 
 Tavora, the elevated palace of the Ajuda, which 
 speaks of wealthier days , the hill and village 
 of Almada rapidly succeed each other, until the 
 city expands fully to the view, spreading like 
 ancient Rome over an amphitheatre of seven hill, 
 and covering the intervening vallics. 
 
 The view of Lisbon from the opposite side of 
 ^he Tagus is uncommonly grand. The noble 
 wiver itself from one to four miles broad, the 
 shipping, the widely extended city, with its 
 churches, palaces and monasteries, the aqueduct 
 over the valley of Alcantara, the busy windmills 
 on the nearer hills, and the celebrated lines of 
 Torres Vedras in ihe back-ground of the land- 
 scape, compose a rich assemblage of objects form- 
 ing a prospect which few places in the world 
 can present. The Tagus, which washes the foun- 
 dations through the whole length of the city, ex- 
 tends towards the east into a spacious bay, called
 
 64 COVA DA 
 
 C'ova da Piedade,and eleganier by the English sai- 
 lors u Jackass Bay," probably from the numberi 
 of the long-eared race that are constantly wait- 
 ing at its extreme point to convey visiters into 
 the country. The whole length of the city along 
 the banks of the river, reckoning from Belcm 
 to the eastern extremity, cannot be less than 
 eight English miles, houses and villas continu- 
 ally succeeding each other to the bond of the 
 river, so that a stranger can scarcely perceive at 
 what point the city terminates. The breadth of 
 the town is extremely irregular ^ in many parti 
 it is so inconsiderable as scarcely to exceed that 
 of a single street } and it never stretches beyond 
 a mile and a half. The city, though not walled 
 in as formerly, has barriers at the principal 
 thoroughfares, and is meant to be considered for-* 
 tifid by a line of defences, which were hastily 
 thrown up in 1833 to prevent the return of the 
 Miguelite forces. 
 
 From the extent of the city, it might be sup- 
 posed that its population -was very considerable. 
 But many of the houses have large gardens attach- 
 ed, and wide cultivated fields are icen even in 
 the heart of the city. 
 
 Of late years Lisbon has considerably im- 
 proved in point of cleanlineii, though much ytt
 
 STREETS. G5 
 
 remains to be done, particularly in the old city. 
 In many streets there is no common sewer j and 
 the refuse is carried away in carts, the approach 
 of which is duly notified by a little bell, which 
 the conductor rings as he passes along. The re- 
 fuse of the kitchen is thus easily disposed of: 
 not so that of the sleeping apartments, &c. &c. 
 this is carefully preserved till night-fall, when, 
 woe betide the heedless passenger, who if he be 
 not actually inundated through the tender com- 
 passion of the housemaid who may perhaps wait 
 till he has passed, or caution him by an'-'agoa 
 ^m," will at least be regaled by the perfumed 
 spray of the descending mass. By a municipal 
 regulation, it is prohibited to throw anything 
 into the street till after ten o'clock at night \ 
 .and it is also kindly directed that on such occa- 
 sions a triple warning be given of what is going 
 to take place. But these regulations like most 
 others, are often disregarded } and in the broad 
 light of day, liquids and solids of the most of- 
 fensive nature force themselves on more senses 
 than one, as they come down in frequent dis- 
 charges from above, or reascend in odorous ya- 
 pours when acted Upon by an ardent sun. 
 
 It is but just to remark that the present and 
 late municipal chambers have exerted themselves
 
 66 
 
 HOUSES. 
 
 in a most laudable manner in cleansing and im- 
 proving the city. Several of the cLicf thorough- 
 fares have been drained and macadamised } 
 though in streets hot, dry and dusty as those of 
 Lisbon, it may be doubted whether any thing 
 has been gained by introducing the system of 
 Mac Adam. 
 
 The houses in Lisbon are in general lofty, 
 and sometimes raised to the height of five or six 
 stories :, a fearful elevation, particularly in a coun- 
 try in which earthquakes are not uncommon. 
 Each floor is laid out for the accommodation of 
 an entire family, and contains bedrooms, parlour, 
 sitting rooms, &c. as well as kitchen. The 
 ground floor is usually employed as a stable, a 
 shop or warehouse, and is rarely occupied by 
 any part of the family. This method of build- 
 ing bouses, and letting each floor to a separate 
 tenant is doubtless profitable to the owners, but 
 attended with many inconveniencies to the iu- 
 mates. To mention one the danger of fire 
 whatever [precautions a person may take in his 
 own family he can never be sure but that the 
 most culpable and gross carelessness in those who 
 live above or below, may at any moment con- 
 sign himself and property to the flames, an event 
 that actually occurred about three years ago when
 
 BEST VlJiYVS OF LISBON. 07 
 
 thirteen Luman beings were destroyed by the most 
 horrible of all deaths, through the fire having 
 caught in a lower apartment of the building in 
 which they \vere unconsciously taking their night- 
 ly repose. 
 
 One of the primary objects of every traveller 
 on reaching a city for the first time should be 
 to view it from the summit of some tower, spire, 
 or neighbouring eminence, in order to gain an 
 acquaintance with its situation, and of the cha- 
 racteristic features and relative bearings of its 
 principal buildings. The best points for viewing 
 Lisbon and the surrounding scenery are the dome 
 of the Estrella,' the Castle of St, George, and 
 the heights of the Graga, Nossa Seuhora do 
 Monte and the Penha de Franga. 
 
 The effects of the earthquake of 1755 are still 
 visible in many parts of the city. This tem- 
 porary evil, like the great fire of London in 
 1666, has, however, produced permanent good. 
 An able architect, Eugenio dos Santos, presented 
 apian for rebuilding the city to the Marquis de 
 Pombal , who at once gave it his sanction, and 
 spared neither exertions nor expence in carrying 
 it out. All the streets built according to this 
 plan are capacious and regular, with conve- 
 nient path-ways for foot passengers, and the
 
 63 FOUNTAINS ENTIROSS. 
 
 squares and public quays subsequently formed 
 and embellished are not surpassed by those of any 
 other city of Europe. 
 
 The finest and most useful ornaments of the 
 city are its numerous fountains, which supply 
 the inhabitants with excellent water, and are 
 worthy of notice as presenting some fair speci- 
 mens of architecture. From these fountains the 
 water is hawked about the town by Gallegos who 
 carry it in small elaborately painted barrels on 
 their shoulders. Their cry of '* Agoa . . . a" 
 (mater) is that which first rouses the stranger 
 from his slumbers in the morning, which rings 
 in every variety of tone in his ears the whole 
 day, and is the last sound that breaks indis- 
 tinctly upon his senses as he drops off to slepp 
 at night. 
 
 The environs of Lisbon are in general more 
 elevated than the town, and, on the east and 
 north sides are covered with extensive gardens 
 orquintas which supply the city with abundance 
 of vegetables. On the western side, the country 
 is not so well cultivated and presents some naked 
 and rocky hills. But where these are not too 
 stony they have been cultivated with success, 
 and on them are found spontaneously growing 
 many delioatt plants and flowers which it would
 
 SOVTH OF TH TAdBS. 
 
 be difficult to rear in England. The trees, of 
 -which ( there is a great scarcity in the vicinity 
 f Lisbon, are almost confined to the olive, the 
 lime, and the orange : but the deficiency is am- 
 ply repaired by the richness and beauty of the 
 last mentioned, as there is not perhaps a richer 
 feast for the eye to dwell upon than an orange 
 grove laden with its golden fruit, and at the 
 tame time shedding around the odoriferous pec- 
 fume of its lily-white blossom. 
 
 The south side of the Tagus presents a regu- 
 lar succession of hills, abrupt to the river, whote 
 sloping sides are covered with vineyards. The 
 soil beyond is dry and sandy, and presents to 
 the view nothing but extensive heaths and fo- 
 rests of pines stretching as far as the Arrabida 
 mountains. Occasionally small hamlets and fish- 
 ing towns are situated at distant intervals om 
 the edge of the river :, but none of them, with 
 the exception of Almada and Cacilhas are worthy 
 f note. 
 
 -
 
 LISBON. 
 
 Lower otdert 
 e of the army 
 
 u But whoso entereth within this town, 
 That sheening far, celestial seems to be, 
 Disconsolate will wander up and down, 
 'Mid many things unsightly to strange ee.*' 
 
 Byron . 
 
 The inhabitants of Lisbon may be comprised 
 under four classes: viz. the nobility, the clergy, 
 the merchants, and labouring people. 
 
 The nobility may be considered aft a body 
 entirely distinct from the other three. They 
 are not, comparatively speaking, very rich: for, 
 though their patrimonies are large, their renti 
 are small. Few of them have perhaps ever seen 
 a map of their estates, or exactly know their 
 boundaries. " Wore they, "says Murphy in hie 
 travels in Portugal, of which work we have oc- 
 casionally availed ourselves, "to turn their at- 
 tention to the construction of roads and canal*, 
 and not consider agriculture a pursuit unworthy 
 f gentlemen, they would become the richest 
 Mobility in Europe. The lives of the old nobi- 
 lity are for the most part an even tenor of do- 
 nmtic felicities, not remarkable for brilliant
 
 MOBILITY. 71 
 
 lottcm , and but rarely stained by vice. Tht 
 fame of their illustrious ancestors justly entitles 
 thm to every honour and respect , but whilst 
 they glory in the remembrance of their achiave- 
 ments, they seem to forget their maxims. It 
 must be allowed that they possess many amia- 
 ble qualities. They are religious, temperate and 
 generous, faithful to their friends, charitable to 
 Ih ? distressed, and attached to their sovereign 
 whose approbation or a peaceful retirement con- 
 stitutes the greatest happiness of their lives." 
 
 As an instances of the kindness with which 
 they treat their inferiors, it is a rule among th 
 ancient nobility never to dismiss an old servant, 
 unless for some fault, that merits this chastise- 
 ment. When age or infirmity unfits their do- 
 mestics for service, they are still considered as 
 part of the family, and are not only provided 
 for themselves, but their wives and children ar 
 also supported. Hence it often happens that a 
 nobleman's establishment comprises large fami- 
 lies of dependants, often running through two 
 or three generations. Almost all the nobility 
 are connected with one another by intermar- 
 riages, and it rarely happens that thpy contract 
 alliances with persons of ignoble blood. Though 
 their houses are spacious, and dignified with tke
 
 70 TMI CLEROT. 
 
 name of u Palacios," they are in general gloomy 
 and comfortless^ and till 1/itt'ly very few of them 
 were ever chrered by a fire in winter. 
 
 The Lishon clergy since the suppression of tht 
 religious establishments has lo=t much of that high 
 respect and lofty preeminence which it formerly 
 commanded. Degraded by state patronage and 
 ill supported by scanty government stipends, it 
 is no long T able adequately to fulfil its sub- 
 lime mission. In the midst of the political strug- 
 gles that have convulsed this unhappy country 
 ecclesiastical preferments have been but too often 
 bestowed on worthless characters, as rewards for 
 services rendered not to God, but to ministers 
 of state, for exertions undergone not in the cause 
 of morality or religion, but in canvassing votes 
 at the elections. By such men as these it can- 
 Kotbe expected that much should be doneintbc 
 way of religious instruction or virtuous example, 
 let waiving these abuses, there are among the 
 clergy individuals, whose moral conduct is irre- 
 proachable, and whose talents are as distinguished 
 as their virtues. 
 
 The great and crying evil of the Portuguese 
 church is the thraldom in which it is held by 
 the state, -au evil which has beeu increased te
 
 CONTIHUNTAL MISSIONARY SOCIETI. TS 
 
 a tenfold degree by the absurd suppression of the 
 tithes. Lisbon is perhaps the only capital in 
 Europe that has presented the spectacle of the 
 ministers of religion begging their bread from 
 door to door, and actually dying from starvation; 
 while the property which once was theirs, wat 
 being put up to auction and knocked down for 
 less than one half of its value. It is even a mat- 
 ter of surprise that, notwithstanding these at- 
 tempts to enslave and degrade the clerical body, 
 the religious feelings of the people at large 
 should not have been undermined to a greater 
 1 degree than has actually happened. For even still 
 the Kttachment of the Portuguese to the religion* 
 belief and practises of their forefathers is unde- 
 niable. 
 
 An attempt was some time ago made by a 
 certain missionary society in En-gland to evan.- 
 gelizK the benighted inhabitants of Lisbon. For 
 this purpose a gr<>at expanse wa? incurred, and 
 the country was inundated by a large imports* 
 tion of Bibles, printed in Lrui.-inn. A. Spanish 
 renegade friar, who had married a wif? and had 
 a large family, opened a conventicle under the 
 auspices of the society. After preaching in fk- 
 vour of the principles of the Reformation in va- 
 riout localities of the town, ha quarrelled \V\\A
 
 CLAHJU. 
 
 his employers, and quitted the scene of hit la- 
 bours without making a single convert , though 
 at the time, many of ihe organs of the society ia 
 England gave pompous accounts of his wonder- 
 ful success, in return for the money that had 
 been cajoled out of the pockets of John Bull. 
 As for the London bibles, th--y may be purchased 
 any day in rag /fltr, with their backs warped 
 by long exposure to the sun, at the price of 
 about twopence each} as the Portuguese have 
 several much superior editions of their own. 
 
 Perhaps the wealthiest and most influential 
 class of society in Lisbon are the untitled gentry 
 and lli" more respectable merchants. As a body 
 thry have little to distinguish them from the 
 ame classes in other cities. It is chiefly by them 
 that the principal offices of state are filled , and 
 it is they who figure as leaders in the house of de- 
 puties. Their establishments are generally dis- 
 tinguishable from those of the nobility by a 
 stricter economy, and less expensive display. 
 
 Of late years there has arisen among them a 
 spirit of association, and several companies hav 
 been formed with a view of introducing local 
 improvements, and giving a stimulus to national 
 industry. A instances of this may he menti- 
 oned the company of Public works ( Obras
 
 J.OTTBR ORDERS. 74 
 
 HentJ the Steam-Packet and insurance Cora- 
 panics, the Fishing Company, the Afambuja 
 Canal Company, &c. Sfc, 
 
 The common people of Lisbon and iti envi- 
 rons are remarkable for temperance and fruga- 
 lity, if not for intelligence and industry. Both 
 exes are passionately fond of gaudy apparel : 
 even the fish and fruit women wear trinkets 
 and ear-rings of considerable value. The com- 
 mon dress of the women is a capote e /en Jo, bjr 
 which are meant a large cloak of cloth, usually 
 blue or brown, and a white kerchief on the head 
 pinned under the chin. When they assemble to- 
 gether, as at church, the effect of so many headi 
 all presenting the same appearance, is novel and 
 ttriking. It is a rule among the female part 
 of the congregation never to stand in the church, 
 and as there often are no pews or benchds they 
 are obliged either to continue kneeling or squat 
 in the Moorish or oriental style, on the ground, 
 a practice attended with extreme inconve- 
 nience to ladies who come from other countries. 
 As for the Portuguese women it is as natural 
 to them thus to squat on the ground, as well at 
 koine as at church as it is awkward and incon- 
 venient to foreigners, In the simple dress of the
 
 7C tofctthci; ~ 
 
 capote e lengo there is something motherly and 
 modest; yet even in the use of this, female va- 
 nity has discovered a method of stiffening and 
 elevating the kerchief so as to leave visible the 
 hair and neck. 
 
 A friend of the writer related to him a rather 
 ludicrous anecdote connected with the capote. 
 At a certain church-feast, where the female part 
 of the congregation was as usual closely squat- 
 tedin the principal aisle, a f.iir chevaliere (Vin- 
 dwtrie had during tho sermon dexterously cut 
 away from her piously attentive neighbour the 
 whole lo\v v er part of her cloak, leaving her no- 
 thing but the <Mpp, and successfully <!cc.iinpcd 
 with her prize. Unconscious of the theft, the 
 poor woman Continued Iv-r devotions till the 
 end of the service, when rising to depart sh- was 
 astounded l>y a general lugh, when it was disco- . 
 Tered that she was minus urn- h.ilf of her outer 
 garment. Her chagrin at tlu* strangeness of her 
 figure, and the amusement she afforded, was not 
 less than what she felt for the loss she had sus- 
 tained. 
 
 The use of the capote is not peculiar to the 
 women-, it is still used by such of the im-n who 
 have not degenerated by the adoption of foreign
 
 COSTUMK, 
 
 77 
 
 costume. A genuine Portuguese of th* old school 
 will not lay aside the favourite cloak evenintha 
 hottest day in summer, and, singularly enough, 
 the practice is but an exemplification of Dr. 
 Black's theory of heat } for from the non-con- 
 ducting nature of the material, combined with 
 the slow motion of those who wear it, it as ef- 
 fectually keeps out the heat in summer, as it 
 does the cold in winter. In point of dimensions 
 the Fortnguese cloak is usually much smaller 
 than the Spanish. 
 
 The dress of the peasants consists of a broad 
 brimmed sugar-loaf hat, a vest of gaudy colours, 
 and shorts open at the knees, or trousers which 
 they tie up with a red sash, about eight inches 
 broad and four yards long. Over the left shoulder 
 is thrown the jacket with pendant buttons:, the 
 shirt front is often richly embroidered, and held 
 together by gilt clasps : they usually wear boots, 
 and carrya long strait cudgel, having at its lower 
 extremity a heavy brass lerrule, which proves 
 on occasion a powerful weapon, and in the use 
 of which they are remarkably expert, f 
 
 "f By a municipal regulation the peasants are 
 not allowed to carry these cudgels in the city ; 
 but are obliged to leave them at the gates as 
 they enter. 
 
 L
 
 The porters who do the laborious work of 
 the town are Gall?gos. They are natives of 
 Gallicia, a hardy and robust race of men, who 
 leave their poor country, and emigrate, some in- 
 to the other parts of Spain, and some into Por- 
 tugal to earn money by the severest species of 
 labour. They may be called the "hewers of 
 wood and drawers of water " of the metropolis, 
 as they perform almost the whole drudgery of 
 the city. 
 
 It has often been remarked that pride and po- 
 verty are first-cousins, and this is certainly true 
 with regard to the lower orders of the Portu- 
 guese in Lisbon. Rather than submit to certain 
 menial and laborious occupations, which he con- 
 siders fit only for a Gallego, a Portuguese pau- 
 per will either beg, borrow, steal or starve, 
 while the less fastidious Gallogo, by habits of 
 industry and economy, lays up a provision for 
 his family, and often rises to a respectable sta- 
 tion in society. To illustrate the above obser- 
 vations, it may be mentioned as a fact of fre- 
 quent occurrence, that a Portuguese servant will 
 go the length of a whole street to fetch a Gal- 
 lego to carry a bundle across the way ; and if 
 you expostulate with him on the absurdity of
 
 AT.LIOS. 9 
 
 bis conduct, will indignantly reply } u EM nuo 
 sow Gallego .!" 
 
 These Gallicians were till within the last few 
 years patient, inoffensive, honest and faithful to 
 a proverb. Sometimes when they have scraped 
 together a little money they settle in Portugal, 
 and set up roadside taverns or small grocers shops : 
 but most return with their savings to their own 
 country. 
 
 One of the principal employments, in which 
 they are daily engaged, is supplying the citizens 
 with water, which they carry on their shoulders 
 in small barrels from the different fountains, and 
 sell at the rate of lOrs. (half-penny) per barrel; 
 but the price is often raised to 2d. or 3d. in th 
 dry season. Every Gallego in this service it 
 obliged, by a police regulation, to carry one of 
 these vessels filled with water to his lodging? 
 every night, and in case of fire to hasten with 
 it, at the first sound of the fire-bell, to assist in 
 extinguishing the flames. Any neglect in this 
 respect is punished by a fine, while a reward 
 is given to him who first arrive* at th spot. 
 
 They are also obliged to wear a brass medal, 
 bearing two numbers, indicating the fountain 
 and division to which thcr belong, Athe ere-
 
 80 
 
 THE ARMY. 
 
 dit of these water carriers Las of late years been 
 on the wane, the stranger, -when he has occasion 
 to employ them on any errand where fidelity is 
 important, such as carrying his trunks, &c. would 
 do well to make them deposit with him the above 
 mentioned badge-, as it would be a sure means 
 of discovering them in case of need. 
 
 In the houses of foreigners the Gallegos are 
 almost the only male servants employed, and 
 many of the Portuguese prefer them to their own 
 countrymen. They are often perfect factotums, 
 and can adapt themselves with wondrous faci- 
 lity to any species of service. 
 
 The soldiers in the capital, as they are gene- 
 rally belter paid, usually present a more res- 
 pectable appearance than those in the provinces, 
 and some of the regiments perform their evolu- 
 tions in a manner that would not disgrace the 
 finest troops in Europe. We wish we could say 
 as much for their morale, but the frequent 
 change ofgovcrnmeut, and consequently of prin- 
 ciples has shaken that strong feeling of self res- 
 pect, which formerly characterised them.f 
 
 | The author of 'The Civil War in Portugal' 
 thus writes : " The morale of that fine army
 
 MAMMBla. * 
 
 Were it not for this stain on their character, 
 
 they would dewrve unqualified praise. Their 
 sober and temperate habits, as well as their cou- 
 rage and patient endurance of hardkhips and fa- 
 tigue were witnessed and eulogised by the greatest 
 captain of the age. 
 
 Manners Politeness Religious practices 
 Customs Peculiarities ^fc. Sfc* 
 
 " The manners, customs, policy of all 
 Pay contribution to the store he gleans." 
 
 Cbivper. 
 Semota a nostris rebus sejunctaque looge. 
 
 If civility were synonymous with civilisation, 
 the Portuguese people would be the most ci\ iliced 
 people on the earth. Even among thf oniinary 
 classes two acquaintances never ni"et in the street 
 without an int.-rchaiigi' of compliments. A Gal- 
 lego, doffing IUH cap, will aildrcs* his friend with 
 '* Salve o Dens " or " Decs Ihe de bans diat:" 
 
 which mi brilliantly returm-d a* conquerois from 
 Fraiie-, the adinir.il ion of Kit rope, was reduced 
 to tin" lowest i-bh. Tht* soldiers frequently say 
 in the fct reels Give UN five vinletns a day and 
 t i( a the Constitution; jrive us a i intern a day 
 Biorr, *od death to the Constitution.'' 
 
 I %
 
 4fcen f>Hw* regular Miquiry iota the stale of 
 Jiis health and that of 1m family, &r. mid the 
 compliments are as regularly rrtu-wftl at part- 
 ing. Wh^neier a stranger appears in com- 
 pany, he i* instantly saint, d l-y rvi-ry one pre- 
 sent ^ and if lliry he seat <!, all rise to pity him 
 respect. The master of flu- liuuse will gututli* 
 door to receive iiiin.an<l .is if ho were a OHTK mas- 
 ter of cerem)ni', will ushi-r him into the room 
 himself remaining hrhind, with w> Ten La a bonda- 
 de (fentrar : actr-av s/n . 11 (Have tie gvodiieu to 
 gain: thehonte it yours. J Ou l^axing llic roum, 
 tho order is revi-rsed ; nd lh-n the ho&t pre- 
 cedes his guest. The pitting Lvrciiiony usually 
 commences at lie- top of th*- stairs, ;iinl tonsisti 
 in ordinary cast of n lv v/^t'"*i" ' ;t ' w f l a 
 crape, then the guest dricends, and is fol- 
 lowed at a convenient i)i-t.inc<- by the master of 
 the house. B< f>re rea< hi i z the street-door the 
 
 O 
 
 former will turn mun 1 an I ag.-n'n fi;)lirte his en- 
 tertainer ^ which ci-remony i son)ctimcs repeated 
 i_S'Ton<! and third t me, till the duoratlast puts 
 n af>rnjit termination to the lows and scrapes, 
 and the visitor departs in rarnest. 
 
 On occasions however of more than ordinary 
 interest, as at the meeting of long alwent fri nds, 
 tbir icutuil ymp*thy xprcssei itself hy a warra
 
 It 
 
 hearty hu, one party lifting the other fair- 
 ly from the gro'in I, and this fur two or three 
 times; a process which is rather embarassing to 
 foreigner when ho is first subjected to it. Th 
 salutation*, of ladies among themselves at meet- 
 ing and parting, are not less ardent, and express 
 th -ms'-lves on both occasions, by a mutual pro- 
 fusion of kisses. 
 
 In addressing each other the Portuguese pay 
 great regard to distinction of rank } and perhapt 
 In no language are titles so precisely determined. 
 Every Fidclgo must be addressed by ** f^cua 
 Excellencia ," and this term is extended to all 
 tlmse who hold any office of rank under govern- 
 ment. Bihops are similarly addressed } a aim* 
 pie clergyman it entitled <k Fossa Rcvcrencia'J* 
 11 other persons of respectability u fossa Sen- 
 Aorta i" a superior speaking to an inferior, over 
 whom he has no control, addresses him by"^ci- 
 Mt merce ^' a master his servant by " T," which 
 term is also one of familiarity among equals of 
 11 grades. In speaking to ladies " fossa Kx- 
 ceUcncia 1 ' 1 is the title given. 
 
 A Portuguese writing a letter from his own 
 house inscribes it " Dtsta sua casa." (FromtJat 
 house ! ) All persons entitled to
 
 34 1EL19IOV9 PftACTICKt* 
 
 I ^ 
 
 in epistolary correspondence by 
 
 e Hxcelkntiuimo Senhor or Illma. 
 JSxmn. Snra.a\\ other* by fllustritsitno Senhor or 
 Illustri-sima SenAora". In writing to a supe- 
 rior, etiquette requires that you sign your name 
 at the very bottom of the page. The sup"rscrip- 
 tinn is gt'inTiilly written in lines running at 
 right angl-s with thcwp of English directions. 
 Th> iirtiiu" i prf-civled by the invariable Jllut- 
 irissimo ir Fxcellcniissimo or both, and followed 
 by three et rr/ern*, and if sent by private hand, 
 tin- iiiitne of the writer is inscribed at tha 
 bottom. 
 
 A very bexntifiil and striking feature o' Por- 
 tngui'^e u. aimers is the d< porlinelit of children 
 towards tltiir jfir nts. What^-xer be their age 
 or ktition >f lif", Iht-y al\v?iys salute them, when 
 they first ni'' t in th- morning, by kissing their 
 h^nd and iihking tlhir I.l-.-bbing. After dinner 
 and ;it nigJit tli y n-ii'-w the .nit" testimony of 
 whirh i m-\er omitted even in the 
 uf strangers ami un the most public 
 
 OC'CHMOhS. 
 
 W; might mention many ntli-r c > (i*l<>-n uf a 
 Christian and religious diarm-lcr, which thcia* 
 j>i-nt r< generators of th Lmd ]\\- sm-c .. .1 .1 in 
 partially abolishing, but which still linger fondly
 
 &ELIGIOVS PRACTICE. &6 
 
 in the memory and practice of the more un- 
 cophisticated of the citizens. A generation has 
 not passed away since it was the invariable cus- 
 tom on leaving the quay in a passage boat, for 
 the man at the helnr to call on all present to 
 breathe a prayer for the departed faithful, which 
 call was always responded to, and every head 
 was instantly uncovered. No Portuguese would 
 pass a church, a cross or sacred emblem with- 
 out respectfully saluting it; and at the sound of 
 the Angelus Bell, at morning, noon and night, 
 every individual joined in the usual short but 
 solemn memento of the great mystery of the Re- 
 demption. 
 
 u Ave Maria! Blessed be the hour ! 
 The time, the clime, the spot, where I so oft 
 Have felt that moment in its fullest power 
 Sink o'er the earth so beautiful and soft, 
 While swung the deep bell in the distant tower, 
 Or the faint dying day-hymn stole aloft, 
 And not a breath crept thro' the rosy air, 
 And yet the forest leaves seem'd stirr'd witk 
 
 prayer." 
 
 Byren. 
 
 At nightfall, too, the fathers of the present 
 generation were seen in every street and from 
 the windows of each home responding to tho 
 u
 
 >G RELIGIOUS PRACTICE!. 
 
 chanted prayer, addressed to Christ's most bless- 
 ed Mother, and^none but the stranger of another 
 creed kept aloof from this piously closing act of 
 the day. 
 
 But these things have passed away ij and men are 
 taught that practices, which in the golden days of 
 Portugal constituted the glory and the happiness 
 of their heroic forefathers, would retard the on- 
 ward progress of civilization, and be degrading 
 to the enlightenment of the nineteenth century. 
 
 There are however occasions, when the reli- 
 gious feelings of the people, as if in defiance of 
 rationalist and utilitarian doctrines, strongly and 
 unequivocally manifest themselves. Instances of 
 this are the procession of Corpus Christi in May 
 or June, of Senhor dot Passos in Lent, and of 
 the Fiaticum or Blessed Sacrament as it is car- 
 ried from the Parish church to the bed-side of 
 the sick. 
 
 On the feast of Corpus Christi all the paro- 
 chial clergy with their respective brotherhoods, 
 the knights, officers of state, public functiona- 
 ries, &c. &c. resident in or near the capital, 
 assemble at the Cathedral, and thence form a 
 long and rich procession. First walk the guilds 
 or brotherhoods, clad in their respective dresses,
 
 RELIGIOUS PRACTICES. 37 
 
 bearing torches, and each brotherhood preceded 
 Ly a cross. Then follow the clergy clothed in 
 their richest vestments -, after them proceed the 
 various order? of knighthood, the canons and 
 patriarchal clergy and choir; next the nohilily 
 and the minister* of state, and with them the 
 king who bears one of the poles of the canopy 
 under which walks the patriarch carrying the 
 Blessed Sacrament. The queen does not walk in 
 the procession but views it from a tribune as it 
 leaves the church. The troops who line the 
 streets, kneel with their heads uncovered and 
 bayonets turned to the ground as the canopy pass- 
 es. When the cortrge leaves and reenters the 
 church a royal salute is given from the castle 
 and the ships in the river. Immense crowds 
 never fail to attend this national festival. 
 
 The procession of the Viaticum to the sick 
 may take place at any hour of the day or night. 
 A signal is giver, by a bell at the parish church for 
 the assembling of such of the brotherhood or at- 
 tendants as are necessary to form the cortege. 
 The approach of the procession is announced by 
 the sound ofabelljandevery head is uncovered and 
 every knee brnt as it passes along. If it happen 
 to be at night, all the windows are illuminated
 
 58 RELIGIOUS PRACTICES. 
 
 s it goes by, and an appropriate hymn is sung 
 by the attendants. Its effect in these circumstan- 
 ces, as it slowly and solemnly winds along the 
 streets in the still hour of midnight, is touching 
 and sublime. Very lately as the Viaticum wai 
 being carried past the theatre of St. Carlos, those 
 within, hearing the sound of the bell, immedi- 
 ately interrupted the performance, and the whole 
 assembly turning round remained standing till 
 the procession had passed. We are scrry to re- 
 mark that puppyism or insane bigotry sometimes 
 induces the professors of a different creed t to in- 
 sult the religious feelings of the people by refus- 
 ing to pay even an outward demonstration of 
 respect on these occasions. 
 
 The custom of spontaneously illuminating the 
 city with lamps at the windows, bonfires in 
 the streets, skyrockets, fireworks, &c. $c., on 
 the eves of the festivals of St. Anthony, St. John 
 Baptist, and SS. Peter and Paul, though of late 
 not so enthusiastically k-pt tip as formerly, has 
 still its admirers and supporters, principally iti 
 the juvenilp portion of the community. 
 
 A scarlet hanging may be frequently seen at the 
 doors of the churches. This is to give notice that 
 Exposition or the devotion of " The Forty Hours 
 Prayer 1 ', is going forward within, where on a
 
 *tfNERALS. 89 
 
 lofty throne, brilliant with the radiance of many 
 lights, the Blessed Sacrament is exposed during 
 two days and two nights to the adoration of the 
 faithful. All the principal churches in and about 
 Lisbon take up this devotion in turn> so that 
 before it ceases in one, it has already commenced 
 in another; and hence it is called the " Laus 
 PerenmV ' or perpetual praise. 
 
 Funerals are conducted in Lisbon as elsewhere 
 with pomp or simplicity according to the rank 
 or wealth of the family of the deceased , but 
 surviving relatives never take part in the fune- 
 ral procession. To make amends, they have a 
 singular custom of sitting at home for eight dayi 
 in a darkened room to receive the compliments 
 of condolence. The person who comes to pay 
 his respects has nothing to do but to make a 
 bow to tbe chief mourner as soon as he enters the 
 room, to sit in lugubrious silence for some mi- 
 nutes, and then making his obeisance, retire. 
 A curious story is related of a certain Engliih 
 ambassador who went to pay his condolence to 
 a Portuguese family of his acquaintance, which 
 had lost one of its principal members. Passing 
 into the darkened chamber from the glaring light 
 -of the sun, and unable to distinguish c/early the 
 objects before him, instead of advancing towards
 
 9C PICVLTARITI1I. 
 
 the chief of the mourning circle, as etiquette 
 required, he gravely walked up to a large China 
 vase that was standing in one corner of the room, 
 made to it a low bow, and then groped his way 
 to a chair. After being seated with his back to 
 the company for some minutes, he rose up, once 
 more respectfully complimented the vase and re- 
 tired, while an involuntary titter among the 
 astonished mourners showed that he had done 
 more, to dispel the gloomy thoughts that oppress- 
 ed them, than if he had read them a long lecture 
 on patience and resignation. 
 
 The Portuguese have a very peculiar method 
 of attracting attention, when they wish to call 
 after a person in the street. This consists in a 
 hissing noise somewhat liks ki hish! AisA."' It is 
 at first very puzzling to a foreigner to be thu 
 civilly and respectfully hissed } but he soon growi 
 accustomed to it, and is able to hiss his friendt 
 as loudly as any native. Even the brute crea- 
 tion here understand the call : and a horse or 
 mule, will invariably slop if hissed at. 
 
 They have many other customs which appear 
 to us very singular^ for example, women gene- 
 rally sit on horseback with the left side towards 
 the animal's head, a postilion rides on the left 
 borse. Footman play at cards and quoits whilst
 
 they are waiting for their masters : the vendert 
 of oddities at Campo de Santa Anna, properly 
 called Feira da Ladra, are equally expert eco- 
 nomizers of time and amusement. A tailor siti 
 at his work like a shoemaker ; a tavern is known 
 by a branch of laurel : a house to be let by a 
 piece of blank paper, fastened to a pane of glass 
 by four or five red wafers, which giva it the 
 appearance of a four or five of diamonds. An 
 accoucheuse's door is known by one or more white 
 crosses } a barber's shop by two pieces of green 
 cloth hanging at the door or window. Many 
 years have not elapsed since the barbers spurned 
 these luxuries, and were content to carry their 
 implements about with them ; and in tho 
 times a man might be seen seated on a stone or 
 inverted water barrel in the open street, under- 
 going the operation from lome itinerant bar- 
 ber. 
 
 The habits of the lower orders arc filthy in the 
 extreme; a favourite occupation with them it 
 relieving each other's heads of certain denizen 
 of the creation which must not be named to earf 
 polite. Tht-y choose the most public places for 
 this exhibition ; and the dexterity which they 
 display in the pursuit, and the zest with which 
 they enter into it can only b the result of
 
 02 CART DRIVERS. 
 
 and constant practice. This disgusting exhibi- 
 tion in the open street, and other practices still 
 more offensive to public decency, which shall 
 here be nameless, loudly call for some munici- 
 pal regulation. 
 
 The attention of a stranger will soon be at- 
 tracted by the heavy lumbering carts, drawn by 
 oxen, which would be considered no decided 
 improvement by a resuscitated Antediluvian. 
 They move with a dull lifeless motion, and the 
 wheel and axletree turn together. The oxen, 
 \vhich are often remarkably fine and stout ani- 
 mals are urged onwards by a goad (by which is 
 meant a sharp iron point inserted in the end of 
 a stick) and the indescribably harsh and discor- 
 dant cries of their drivers. The brutality of 
 these men in urging the poor animals to draw 
 loads beyond their strength p the hilly streets 
 is most disgusting. We have seen them .drive 
 the goad into the flesh by pressing' upon it with 
 their whole force till the noble beast has pite- 
 ously moaned under the torture. 
 
 *'Q,uid meru^re boves, animal sine fraude 
 dolisque, 
 
 Innocuum, simplex, patiens tolerare la- 
 bores ?"
 
 DOGI, ClTi, &.C. , 93 
 
 The attention of the Municipal chamber has, 
 much to its credit, been lately turned to this 
 abuse, and a decree has been issued, forbidding 
 the strength of the animals to be taxed beyond 
 a certain limit, which decree only requires to 
 be enforced to put. an end to the cruel and re- 
 volting spectacle. 
 
 The dogs, till lately, were the scavengers of 
 Lisbon ; at present their numbers are much di- 
 minished, as a price has been set upon their heads: 
 yet still multitudes of them are constantly 
 prowling about. If one discontented cur sets 
 up a bark at a passenger, troops of others come 
 pouring in from all quarters to the attack : they 
 are arrant cowards, however, and the flourish 
 of a stick or the threat of a stone is sufficient to 
 make them fly like chaff. 
 
 Rats also abound, and in some parts of the 
 town may be seen feeding at night along with 
 bevies of dogs and cats in the greatest harmony. 
 These cats are even a still more intolerable nui- 
 sance than the dogs. Two, or even three of them 
 Xvill sit for an hour together screaming and spit- 
 ting at each other in loud and dismal rivalry, 
 which usually terminates in a furious pitched- 
 battle, or by the sudden breaking up of the meet- 
 ing in consequence of an unlocked for missile 
 
 N ..
 
 c *4 ' 
 
 , f '',''. 
 
 coming upon them from some one whose patience 
 
 has beea exhausted by |their hideous caterwaul- 
 ings. They mostly parade the roofs of the houses, 
 from which they frequently fall when engaged 
 in combat j and as these noisy rencounters gen- 
 erally occur at night, th.j occasion no slight 
 annoyance to the luckless occupant of the bed- 
 room, in the proximity of which they take 
 - ( _ . 
 place. 
 * 
 
 i 
 
 ^CtCf, 
 
 
 
 Climate Pop ulalion Commerce Po lice 
 
 Courts of Judicature Municipal Chamber 
 
 Board of Health. 
 
 Sunt bona, sunt mala qusedam,sunt medi- 
 ocria plura. 
 
 Some things are good, some bad, but middling 
 more. 
 
 Lisbon is situated in 38* 42m. 25s. N. Lat. 
 and 9* 4m. 40s. Long. West of Greenwich. 
 
 The climate of Lisbon is temperate and salu- 
 brious. The air in its vicinity has often been . 
 stated to be beneficial to consumptive patients : 
 
 \
 
 ATMOSPHERIC PECULIARITIES. "95 
 
 whether, however, this is not a popular and often 
 fatal delusion we leave the Medicinal Doctor* 
 to determine. Certain it is, that the hottest and 
 sultriest days are generally followed by stormy, 
 chilling breezes from the Atlantic or the rocks 
 of Cintra : and one would imagine, that such 
 great and sudden changes in the temperature of 
 the atmosphere cannot be favorable to pulmona- 
 ry invalids. 
 
 There must be something peculiar in the at- 
 mosphere of Lisbon :, for it is a remarkable fact 
 that though dogs without number bask the whole 
 summer in the sun, not a single instance of hy- 
 drophobia is on record. It may also be men- 
 tioned as another peculiarity, that wounds and 
 lores in the leg are most difficult of cure , and 
 on the contrary, bruises in the head heal ra- 
 pidly without medical aid. 
 
 Although the winters here are in general ve- 
 ry mild and clement, slight falls of snow have 
 taken place, as in the years 1815, 1829, and 
 1836. We may here remark that, though Lis- 
 bon and Lexington in Kentucky are in the 
 same degree of latitude, yet the peach tree and 
 cherry tree are in blossom in the former full two 
 months earlier than in the latter city.
 
 9Q POPULATION. 
 
 The average temperature is supposed to be 
 about 63 in the shade. The general number 
 of fair days annually averages at two hundred, 
 of cloudy at eighty eight, and of rainy at seventy 
 seven. The length of the days varies conside- 
 rably throughout the year, the sun rising in 
 June at 4h. 36m. and setting at 7h. 24m., and 
 in December rising at 7h. 18m. and setting at 
 4h. 42m. The twilight is very short, half an 
 hour plunging the face of nature into darkness 
 after the sun has once sunk below the horizon. 
 
 The rainy season generally commences in Oc- 
 tober and is succeeded early in November by a 
 second summer which lasts sometimes for a month 
 and is called by the natives St. Martin's sum- 
 ' mer. It again comes on in December and con- 
 tinues with broken intervals during the early 
 spring months. The weather during the rest of 
 the year is beautifully fine :, and as sufficient 
 quantity of rain usually falls atq proper season, 
 droughts are almost unknown. 
 
 We have found it almost impossible to obtain 
 any accurate and satisfactory estimate of the 
 population of this city ^ and as no official census 
 has been published, it is not surprising that no 
 two writers can be fouii-l >i) agree in their con- 
 jectures. Professor Link has set it down at
 
 COMMERCE. 98 
 
 300,000. Senhor Cbianca at 206,449 : the map 
 attached to the " electoral law," promulgated in 
 1836, at 220,000 f ^ Balbi at 260,000 } Colonel 
 Franzini in 1843 at 241,500. 
 
 Lisbon has long lost that high commercial im- 
 portance which it once possessed, and which its si- 
 tuation, its port, "and the natural products of the 
 country entitle it to hold. Various causes have 
 concurred to this decline }but perhaps the severest 
 blow given to its trade and consequently to its 
 wealth was the separation of Brazil from the 
 parent country. The monopoly of exportation 
 to so large an extent of country, as were the 
 Portuguese colonies in South America, is but 
 poorly compensated ly a favourable treaty of 
 commerce, an 1 lint near consanguinity of the 
 respective sovereigns. Another cause of the de- 
 cline of trade in Lis'vm is the impolitic measure 
 of railing tin- tariff to what almost amounts t 
 an exclusion of articles of primary necessity, such 
 as cottons, cloths, and in general all manufac- 
 tured goods, under tin* plausible but erroneous 
 notion of prot. cling national industry. Portu- 
 
 J" Tin' mmilicrs in this map were not the re- 
 sult >f any c!jn<l I.MIJ., l;nt were based ou 
 calcnl.itioiit drawn In -in the average number irf 
 birth* during the five preceding years. 
 M 2
 
 'COM MERGE. 
 
 gal is essentially an agricultural country, rich in 
 the natural productions of its fertile soil and ge- 
 nial climate, its wines, its oil, its corn and fruits. 
 To these it must look as to the chief source of its 
 wealth and aggrandizement, and nothing but a 
 petty and shortsighted policy would overlook 
 the great and national duty of protecting the 
 agriculturist for the purpose of upholding a few 
 manufactories, the produce of which will not in 
 general stand competition with imported goods in 
 point of quality, and cannot be wrought without 
 a large outlay of capital, which the mere home 
 consumption will never repay. By raising the 
 duties to an excessive amount jthe temptations 
 presented to the smuggler are proportionally in- 
 creased. To prevent the contraband introduc- 
 tion of goods under these circumstances severe 
 precautionary measures must of necessity be 
 adopted, and these can not fail more or less to em- 
 barrass and keep away the honest trader, and 
 thus leave the produce of the land without pur- 
 chasers. Thes?. causes added to the insecurity 
 occasioned by political embroilments have almost 
 Annihilated the commerce of Lisbon. The great 
 -commercial houses which at the beginning of the 
 present century spoke so much for the city as a 
 mart of great trade and importance have tuccei-
 
 LliTOF IH1*F1N. 109 
 
 lively disappeared, and. have left not even their 
 name behind. The large warehouses that line 
 the river are generally empty, and their owner* 
 have nailed to the doors white bits of wood, in- 
 stead of wafering upon them pieces of paper, 
 according to the usual practice, as if they wer 
 in despair of ever meeting with a tenant. 
 
 By a decree published on the 2nd. of March 
 1834, the port of Lisbon was declared free for 
 the ships and merchandise of all nations } and 
 goods may be deposited in the Custom House 
 free of expense for the term of one year, with 
 the exception of combustibles which yet may b 
 deposited in private warehouses. Merchandise 
 thus bonded raay be reexported on paying one 
 per cent duty ; which is doubled when the goods 
 are reshipped in a different vessel. 
 
 The inspection of the following statistical re- 
 turns, as published by authority, may prove in- 
 teresting to the reader. 
 
 List of vessels that entered the Tagusinl835. 
 
 Nation. Ships. Tons. 
 
 American . . . 21 .... -4,499. 
 
 Austrian ... . 11 .... 3,625. 
 
 Belgian ..... 9 . . . . 1,495. 
 
 Brazilian . . . . 44 .... 11,478.
 
 ' 101 LIST OF SHIPPING. 
 
 Br*menee . . .'* . 6 .... 1,284, 
 
 Danish . . . . . 19 . . . . 3,59.0. 
 
 Dutch .... . 64 .... 6,415. 
 
 English .... 302 .... 35,534. 
 
 French 33 .... 3,435. 
 
 Greek . . * . . 1 260. 
 
 Hamburghese ... 13 .... 2,770. 
 
 Hanoverian . . . .3 .... 2,408. 
 
 Neapolitan .... 7 .... 1,582. 
 
 Prussian 4 . . . . 686. 
 
 Roman 2 .... 414. 
 
 Russian 24 .... 6, 174. 
 
 Sardinian .... 16 .... 2,861. 
 
 Spanish .... 12 .... 608. 
 
 Swedish 87 .... 15,612. 
 
 Tuscan . . 6 ... 602. 
 
 704 105,172. 
 
 f Coasters 757 27,053. 
 Portuguese <( Sea ves- 
 
 ^sels 46 26,410. 
 
 Grand total 1,607 158,635. 
 
 During the year 1845, 1300 vessels ( furciga 
 
 and Portuguese ) entered the port : of which 37 
 were English. 1337 cleared out from the same, of 
 which 387 were Portuguese. In this enumera- 
 tion the smaller coasting vessels are nut in- 
 cluded. 
 
 The estimated value of exports from Lisbom 
 to Pernambuco in 1843 was 660,764,000rs. or
 
 IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. 102 
 
 Value of imports from PernamVuco to Lisbon 
 in the year 1845 was;581,789,000rsor 130,984. 
 
 The exports from Lisbon to Rio Janeiro in 
 1844 amounted to 1 , 827,749, 350rs. or L41 1 ,243. 
 shipped in 54 vessels, viz. 
 
 Portuguese. . 
 Dutch. .... 
 Swedish. . . 
 Brazilian. 
 
 15. 
 
 15. 
 
 7. 
 5. 
 
 Hamburghese. . 
 American. . . 
 Norwegian. 
 Bremenese. 
 
 5. 
 4. 
 
 1. 
 1. 
 
 The chief articles exported were Wine, 9,031 
 pipes, Salt 13,002 moios, Oil 7 pipes, 65 bar- 
 rels, Snuff 129 boxes, Onions 99,304 bunches. 
 Vinegar 689 piprs. 
 
 The goods imported that year from Rio to 
 Lisbon were valued at 528,21 5, OOOrs. or Z/118, 
 848, consisting principally of sugar, rice, cof- 
 fee, wood and tapioca, -which were shipped in 
 13 Portuguese, and 2 Brazilian vessels. 
 
 Statistical account of the Imports and Exports 
 between Great Britain and Portugal in the year 
 1842. 
 
 Imports. 
 Foreign wines, spirituous and Rs. 
 
 fermented liquors, ^fc 2,140,000. 
 
 Salt fish, whalebone, sper- 
 maceti, &c 169,748,900. 
 
 Hore, dogs, sheep, &c, .. . . 34,684,800. 
 O
 
 10i5 IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. 
 
 Butter, lard, tallow, &c. . . . 162,94,OUO, 
 
 Hides, leather, &c 33,494,000. 
 
 Silks, 9,222,600. 
 
 Woollens, 631,907,320. 
 
 Linens, 137,315,400. 
 
 Cottons, . . . ....--. . . 2,889,612,200. 
 
 Taper, . f . , .._.' .... 10,517,800. 
 
 "Wood, 4,848,700. 
 
 Chemical drugs, 44,903,300. 
 
 Taints, tannin, &c 52,231,500. 
 
 Gums, resins, &c 44,462,200. 
 
 Articles of medicine, .... 1,641,100. 
 Colonial produce, tobacco, &c. . 32,655,400. 
 Malt, pulse, fruits, seeds, &c. &e. 4,428,700. 
 Wrought and unwrought metals, 475,699,463. 
 
 Glass, 41,050,680. 
 
 Coal, flints, &c 102,553,700- 
 
 Various manufactured articles. . 55,303,600. 
 
 Total Rs.4,941,405, 363. 
 In the above sum are not in- 
 cluded the imports from 
 
 Gibraltar, amounting to ... 108,802,740. 
 
 Newfoundland, ' . . . 657,226,000. 
 
 Mauritius, . . . 1,809,000. 
 
 Malte, . . . . 6,700,000. 
 
 Grand total Rs. 5,715,943, 103. 
 or L. 1,286,087. 
 
 Exports. 
 Wines, spirituous liquors, &c. 2,277,148,066. 
 
 Fish, . . . . , 2,400. 
 
 Livestock, 112,600,
 
 IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. 104 
 
 Animal productions. bams,honey,&c. 5,002,000. 
 
 Ivory, bones, &c. 4,917,000. 
 
 Bes wax, and feathers, . . 2,163,000. 
 
 Hides, . . 1,317,320. 
 
 Silks, 72,000. 
 
 Wool, 43,182,000. 
 
 Flax, &c 1,841,350. 
 
 Cotton, 75,200. 
 
 Wood, . 57,982,000. 
 
 Chemical drugs, 22,134600. 
 
 Paints, and tannin, . . . * . 3,477,500. 
 
 Gums, resins &c 38,773,000. 
 
 Leeches, . ./ 40,000. 
 
 Sweetmeats, cocoa, coffee, tea, . 1,542,500. 
 Potatoes, corn, &c. ... '. . 958,700. 
 Oranges, lemons, grapes, . . 332,185,500. 
 
 Metals, . 421,827,300. 
 
 Glass, 10,600. 
 
 Earths and stones, 59,000. 
 
 Matting, 2, (207. 220. 
 
 Total Rs. 3, 217,030, 856. 
 
 Exports to Gibraltar, ... 39,479,395. 
 " n Newfoundland, 1 . . 35,476,800. 
 r> Canada, 3*16,800. 
 
 Grand Total Rs. 3,292, 303, 750. 
 
 or JL740,763. 
 
 The amount to Brazil the same year was 
 
 of exports 1,448,160,235. 
 
 of imports 1,275,581,440. 
 
 Compare the above account of the present state 
 of the trade of this port with what it was at the
 
 105 BXrOUTS AftD IMPOUTS. 
 
 commencement and in the middle of the last 
 century.- 
 
 In the London Gazette, ttom f Saturday Sep- 
 tember 30th. to Tuesday October 3rd. 1710,oc- 
 curs the ensuing, 
 
 *' Extract of the journal of Captain Culver- 
 den, commander of the Queen packet-boat. 
 
 Ul On Saturday the 23rd. of September, I 
 sailed from Lisbon at noon and mot the Brazil 
 fleet on the bar going in, consisting of about 
 100 sail ^ part of the fleet, they told us, was 
 gone for Oporto, under convoy of three English 
 men of war , who met them at sea.' " 
 
 In a printed statistical account of the Lisbon 
 trade in 1758 and 1T59, are found the following 
 returns : 
 
 In the former year ( 1758 ) "The fleet from 
 Buhia brought gold in dust, bars and money 
 for the king 68,279,380rs, for private indivi- 
 duals 7*28,025,503. 
 
 Silver 260 marks, 2 ounces, 4 drachms, and 
 5,088 pesos"}" in money, the whole being worth 
 in Rs.792, 139,438. 
 
 Sugar 10,016 boxes, 1,217 mats, 12S loaves. 
 
 "f Peso a Spanish silver coiu worth about 
 4*. 6d.
 
 STATISTICS. 106 
 
 Tobacco, 14,558- roll*, 148 baler, each of 
 70 casks, and 10 boxes. 
 
 Hides dried 5, 489, tanned 3,968: and a 
 great quantity of wood and other articles of va- 
 lue. 
 
 On the 28th. of May 1759 the fleet from 
 Gram Para, entered the Tagus bringing, in mo- 
 ney 220,403,495rs : Sugar 11,289 boxes, 1,150 
 mats, 156 loavos : leather 171,000 meios de sola : 
 96,644 dried hides, 29,000 tanned ditto : 24,OOO 
 quintals, each 126lbs,of Brazil wood : besides a 
 great number of other valuable articles. 
 
 As we are on the subject of statistics, we sub- 
 join the following, which may perhaps prove 
 interesting to some of our readers. 
 
 The duties paid into the Custom House 
 amounted in the year ending June 
 
 1843 to . . . l,97l,819,792rs. or 443,500. 
 
 1844 ... 2,259,346,149 508,394. 
 1846 ... 1,596,555,000 359,224. 
 
 Amount of public expenses for the year end- 
 ing June, 1846, 10,797,301, 160or .2,429,392. 
 
 Calculated budget for 1846, 10, 890,032, 708n. 
 Or 1-2,480,257. 
 
 O 2
 
 107 POLICE. 
 
 Taxes gathered in the district of Lisbon in the 
 year ending 
 
 June 1842 . . 588,602,832rs. or JIS2,435. 
 June 1845 . . 1,122,249,411 1,252,500. 
 The tax on fish in Lisbon and its vicinity 
 during the first six months of the year 1844 wa 
 14,067, 260rs. or i.3,165. 
 
 In the year 1844 there were in the office of 
 the Minister of Finance IgO employes their 
 
 salaries being Rs. 51, 666,000. 
 
 Public Treasury 106 . . . . 47,552,000. 
 Fiscal Council 105 47,267,000. 
 
 Total 146,485,000rs. or L. 32, 856. 
 
 The city is under the protection of an armed 
 police, (Guarda Municipal) the commander of 
 which acts in concert with a Civil Governor, 
 ( ddministrador Geral). The duties of this lat- 
 ter functionary, who is subordinate only to the 
 minister of the interior, are to watch over the 
 tranquillity of the town, and the due execution 
 of all police and municipal regulations, to ap- 
 prehend delinquents, to issue passports, publish 
 proclamations, &c. He is aided in his office by 
 a permanent board or council, ( Cunselho de dis- 
 tricio permanenie ) and a general Junta which 
 meeti every year for fifteen days. He hai be-
 
 ?OL1C. 
 
 ides six subordinate administrators of whom he 
 has the nomination, each of whom presides over 
 a district, or division of the city termed a bairro, 
 They also preside over the proceedings of the 
 local boards or councils, and have a subordinate 
 fuiictionary in each parish, known by the ap- 
 pellation of the Regedor da Parockia, who in 
 turn takes the lead in the lowest of all the boardi. 
 which is the Junta da Farcchia. 
 
 The principal police office called indifferently 
 Gorcrno Civil or Administra$do Geral where th 
 Civil governor transacts business is in the Rua 
 da Parreirinha. Here the traveller if he come 
 by land must immediately on his arrival present 
 his passport which, if his stay is to be but of 
 short duration, will be returned to him, and he 
 will only be required to have it visad by th 
 consul of the country to which he belongs, and 
 to present it again at the police office before h i 
 departure. If he come by sea he will have to 
 give up his passport on landing, and will re- 
 ceive a provisional permit which he must pre- 
 sent within twenty four hours at the general 
 police office, when his passport will be returned 
 to him if his stay is only temporary. When 
 however a foreigner comes to fix his residence 
 in Lisbon, his passport will be retained in th*
 
 109 
 
 STATUS OF CRIME. 
 
 police office and be will be required to takeout a 
 ticket of residence, for which he must pay one 
 thousand two hundred Rcis about 5s. and 6d. 
 
 Status of crime for the years 1844 and 1845. 
 
 House breaking, 
 
 Desertions, 
 
 Flight from prison, 
 
 Passing false money, 
 
 Forgery, 
 
 Assassinations, 
 
 Suicides, 
 
 Robberies, 
 
 Thefts, 
 
 Disorderly behaviour, 
 
 Vagrants, 
 
 Contempt of Police laws 
 
 Damaging property, 
 
 Incendiaries, 
 
 Assaults on Police, 
 
 Perjury, 
 
 Insubordination, 
 
 Lesser crimes, 
 
 The highest judicial tribunal in the kingdom 
 is the " Supreme Tribunal of Justice," whoso 
 jurisdiction extend* over the whole country 
 
 1844. 
 
 1845. 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 312 
 
 157 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 ,4 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 28 
 
 20 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 159 
 
 134 
 
 37 
 
 20 
 
 1106 
 
 691 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 291 
 
 801 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 IS 
 
 
 
 
 
 S3 
 
 8 
 
 250 
 
 157
 
 COURTS or JtrsTici:. 110 
 
 and its dependencies. It is composed of eleven 
 members, who are called " Conselheiros," and 
 are addressed by the title of Excellency. A. 
 functionary, u Procurador da Cbroct" ( corres- 
 ponding to our Attorney General) is attached to 
 this tribunal. There are in European Portugal 
 three tribunals or " JRe/ajoes" inferior to the 
 above,' one in Lisbon, one in Oporto, and 
 the third in Ponte Delgada, the capital of the 
 island of St. Michael. The two former are com- 
 posed of twenty one members and the latter of 
 seven. Each of these tribunals is called Rela- 
 ao da Segunda Insiancia \ and to them there 
 lies an appeal in almost all causes tried in the 
 inferior courts, denominated for that reason da 
 Primeira Instancia. The jurisdiction of the 
 Lisbon Belagao extends over the whole of Ihe 
 country South of Leiria. Each Relagao has a 
 Procurador Regio a functionary whose duties 
 correspond to those of Solicitor General. The 
 next inferior courts are those of the first Inslau- 
 cia : of these there are six in Lisbon, correspond- 
 ing to the six wards (varas) into which the 
 city is divided. A judge presides over each of 
 these tribunals : but civil suits only are carried 
 on in them. There are besides three judges of 
 the primeira Instancia for criminal caics , one for 
 P
 
 COURTS OF 
 
 cp;nrmerce; and in every two Bairros one for or- 
 phans. To each tribunal of the 1st. /ns/emcia, is 
 .attached a Delegado do Procurador Regio, a 
 a sort of Crown lawyer, whose duty it is to 
 petition the authorities for the discovery and 
 punishment of offenders, as well as to plead in 
 all cases in which the Exchequer is interested. 
 
 Besides the above tribunals, each vara has one 
 or more juizes de paz, or Arbitrators, through 
 whose hands all causes must pass before they can 
 be. tried in the Rela^uo. All the various tribu- 
 nals hold their sittings in public. Tbe Supre- 
 mo Tribunal da Justi$a is in the Praga do Com- 
 mercio, as is also the tribunal of Commerce. 
 
 The tribunals of the First and Second Instan- 
 cia meet in the building called Boa Hora for- 
 merly a convent of Augustinians. The Juizes de 
 Faz, or Arbitrators, reside and carry on bui- 
 ness in various parts of the city. 
 
 "When a criminal has gone throngh his trial 
 and has been found guilty by the jury, or other- 
 wise, sentence is immediately passed upon him ; 
 but in all capital cases, by a wise and benefi- 
 cent regulation, the execution of the criminal is 
 expressly forbidden till the expiration of twenty 
 days after the sentence is passed, in order that 
 thereby he mny have an opportunity of review-
 
 COURTS or JUSTICE. 112 
 
 ing bis trial, and protesting against such points 
 as do not exactly bear upon the offence. This 
 law was first promulgated by Alphonsus III. at 
 Coimbra, in the year 1211. Several persons 
 have, owing to this decree, protracted their lives 
 for many years."]" 
 
 There is one great defect in the administra- 
 tion of the criminal law, which calls loudly for 
 
 "f A striking instance of this appeared during 
 the administration of the Marquis of Pombal ; 
 this minister ordered a return to be made of all 
 the prisoners in the kingdom, with the nature 
 of their alleged crimes, and term of confine- 
 ment. The abuses practised by the officers of 
 the prisons gave rise to this enquiry, for it had 
 been customary for the gaolors to liberate the 
 soners on their parole on receiving a proportio- 
 nate gratuity. 
 
 Among the number thus enlarged there hap- 
 pened to be one, on whom sentence of death had 
 been passed seven years previously, during which 
 interval, he lived in the country and earned his 
 broad very honestly. The gaoler now summoned 
 him to return; he instantly appeared, reentered 
 the condemned cell, and was ordered for execu- 
 tion i but on a representation of his conduct be- 
 ing made to the king, he was pardoned in con- 
 sideration of his punctual regard to his promise, 
 and the blameless character he maintained in 
 the neighbourhood where he had worked.
 
 '113 COURTS OF JUSTICE. 
 
 redress. Prisoners committed on alleged crimes 
 are suffered to remain many years in prison be- 
 fore they are brought to trial. This even if they 
 are guilty, is a grievous punishment, which they 
 are forced to undergo before they are condemned ; 
 and if they enter the prison innocent, they gene- 
 rally leave it initiated in deeper vices than those 
 with which they were charged, and ready to 
 hold at defiance all law, on account of the wrong 
 done them by a defective portion of it. More- 
 over should an innocent man die before his trial 
 comes on, he sinks into the grave with all the 
 accumulated infamy of a delinquent. j" 
 
 Formerly the Clergy could only be arraigned 
 by the canon law } but this privilege has been 
 set aside, and they are now amenable to the 
 civil courts. 
 
 All causes relating to British subjects, should 
 go before the Judge Conservator, who is chosen 
 by themselves and accepted by the crown, and 
 from whose decision no appeal is granted save 
 to the highest court where lawsuits must be 
 determined within the space of four months : 
 but this privilege and several other immunities 
 enjoyed by us, were bartered away about two 
 years ago by a treaty in which most of the ad- 
 Murphy.
 
 tanUgei were on one sid, and all tha ijwrifiooi 
 on the other. 
 
 The Municipal chamber^ Camera Municipal) 
 is composed of a president and twelve members, 
 olled a Vereadore.s" who ar elected by tb 
 Municipality. They hold their deliberations 
 weekly, in the Praja do Commercio^and are 
 aided by thirteen counsellors, so that the whole 
 municipal body may be said to amount to twenty 
 six members including the treasurers and secre- 
 tary. In the election of the Camara, which is 
 renewed every two years, almost all the citizens 
 have a right to vote. Its principal dijties are to 
 watch over the good order, police and cleanli- 
 ness of the city, the paving and lighting of the 
 streets, the prevention or removal of public 
 nuisances, the ornamenting of the town, the ex- 
 tinction of fires, and the inspection of the prisons, 
 public buildings, fountains, aqueduct, &c. Tha 
 expenses are defrayed by revenues arising from 
 fines, licences, sales and letting of lands, and oc- 
 casionally by direct imposts on articles of con- 
 sumption i and the accounts are annually au- 
 dited by the council of the district. 
 
 The expenditure of the Municipal chamber for 
 the year ending in June 1846 was379,101,3f,9ri. 
 
 its receipts were 279,6 11, OiSrs. 
 r 2
 
 11& MEDICAL' BT5 AID. * 
 
 > 
 
 Th lighting of the city cost . Rs. 43,100,000 
 Cleansing the streets, &c. . . . 40,588.400 
 
 Paving 30,176.540 
 
 Aqueduct and fountains .... 7,034, 16t 
 The board of health ( Consclho da Saude) is 
 composed of three Physicians, two jBurgeons and 
 one Apothecary. Its duties are to take cogni- 
 cance of the sanitary state of the town, to give 
 bills of health to vessels that leave the port, and 
 inspect such as are brought by ships that enter: 
 to examine the quality of provisions exposed for 
 sale, to give certificates for the burial of the 
 dead; &c. &c. The power of this hoard wasso 
 far extended in the administration of Costa Ca- 
 bral as to excite heavy complaints and much dis- 
 satisfaction. It was evon em powered to make 
 inquisitorial visit* in the dwellings of the liege 
 subjects of Her most faithful Majesty, and, as 
 might be expected, these visits of the faculty, 
 were never gratuitous-, but the exorbitancy of 
 tbis system of levying contributions, lead to its 
 downfal, and as one extreme is often followed 
 by another, the result has been, that the really 
 useful psovisions in the constitution of the board 
 have been set aside together with the petty ty- 
 rinny which h&d rendered it unpopular.
 
 DO COMHERCiO. 116 
 
 Praga do Commercio. Custom House. Ex- 
 change. Ministerial Offices. Tribunals Sfc. 
 Largo do Pelourinho. Bank. Arsenal. 
 
 The warrior horse his ample chest uprears, 
 His wide red nostrils smoke, his eye-balls glare, 
 And bis fore-hoofs, high pawing, smite the air. 
 
 M.iMe's Lusiad. 
 
 The most magnificent square in Lisbon is the 
 *' Praga do Commercio," called by the English 
 Slack Horse Square. It is also named u Terreiro 
 do Pago " Court parade, from its having been 
 formerly the site of a royal residence, which 
 was burnt down on occasion of the great earth- 
 quake. 
 
 The Tagus bounds the south side of this square^ 
 the other sides are formed by uniform ranges of 
 buildings, which are elevated in front over arcades 
 or piazzas of stone, and are terminated at the 
 southern extremities by two salient wings, built 
 also entirely of stone, and overlooking the river. 
 The square is six hundred and fifteen feet long 
 by five hundred and fifty broad. It is approached 
 on the north side by three of the principal streets 
 of the city Ruas Augusta, Aurca, and Bella
 
 117 EQUESTRIAN STATUE. 
 
 da Rainha, commonly called Rua da Praia ; and 
 on the east and west by Rua do Arsenal and 
 Rua nova da Alfandega. 
 
 In the centre of the square is an equestrian 
 statue in bronze of Joseph the first a work 
 of no inconsiderable merit, and the only one of 
 the kind that was ever erected to any of the so- 
 vereigns of Portugal. It stands on an elegant 
 pedestal, between two colossal groups, with a 
 basso relievo of the highest taste and finish. 
 
 When we consider the humble state of the 
 arts in Portugal and the difficulty of executing 
 such a magnificent statue, we cannot but admire 
 the genius of those who planned and accomplished 
 this work. The model was made by a sculptor, 
 named Joaquim Machado de Castro who was 
 born in Coimbra 1732 and died on the 3rd. of 
 December 1822. This artist also designed and 
 executed the emblematic groups at the side of 
 the pedestal. It is from the latter that every artist 
 and amateur will judge of Machado's merit as a 
 sculptor, particularly from the group at the east 
 side, which undoubtedly displays great tasto, de- 
 licacy and spirit. 
 
 In the western group the figure, holding in 
 onehandapalm branch and with the other lead- 
 ing a horso, is an allegory of Victory trampling
 
 EQUESTRIAN STATUE. 118 
 
 upon the enemy and winning the trophies of 
 war. 
 
 The eastern group represents Fame trumpet- 
 ing abroad the achievements of Victory. It has 
 been often asked why the elephant is placed so 
 conspicuously in this group } several reasons are 
 given, but the best seems to be that it denotes 
 the land where a portion of the heroic deeds of 
 Victory intended to be thus commemorated, were 
 achieved : while the horse in the other group 
 refers to the military glories of Europe. Some 
 have supposed that the horse denotes Europe, the 
 elephant Asia and the prostrate figures the other 
 two quarters of the globe } but this opinion has 
 been generally exploded on the ground that it is 
 inappropriate to represent the most civilized por- 
 tions of the globe by irrational animals, and the 
 least civilized by human figures. Some critics 
 have also remarked that the horse is not exceeded 
 in bulk by the elephant : but a great deformity 
 would have been visible in the work had one 
 group been much larger than the other. 
 
 On the front of the pedestal were placed the 
 royal arms of Portugal, pendant from which was 
 the effigy of the Marquis of Pombal, the great 
 promoter of this work, who thereby intended to 
 honour his royal master, and at the same time
 
 119 EQUESTRIAN STATUE. 
 
 to add a sprig of laurel to his own brow. When 
 he lost his master and place, his portrait was 
 torn down by those who a few days before 
 paid homage to the original. It has however, 
 been since replaced j and under it is seen the 
 following inscription. 
 
 Josepho I. 
 
 Augiisto. Pio. Felici. Patri, Patriae 
 (iuod. Regiis. Juribus. Adsertis. 
 
 Legibus. Emendatis 
 
 Commercio. Propagate. Militia. 
 
 Et. Bonis. Artibus. Re&titutis 
 
 Urbem. Funditns. Eversam. Tcr- 
 
 rsemotu. Eleganliorem. 
 
 Restauraverit 
 Auspice. Administro. Ejus. Mar- 
 
 chioni. Pombalio. 
 
 Et. Collegio. Negotiatorum. Cu- 
 
 rante 
 
 s. p, a. o. 
 
 Beneficiorum. menior 
 
 A. MDCCLXXV. 
 
 P. 
 
 Joachimus. Machadius. Custrius. Pinxit. 
 
 Et. Sculpsit : 
 
 Bartholomaeus. Costius, Statuam. Equestrem. 
 Ex. Aero. Fudit.
 
 EQUESTRIAN STATUE. 120 
 
 We cannot but admire the indifference; evinced 
 by Pombal when informed of the removal of his 
 portrait. "I am glad of it," said he, " for it 
 was not like me.""f 
 
 On the north side may be seen a panel of basso 
 relievo, on which is represented Regal Generosi- 
 ty, figured by a female with a crown on her 
 head, and clad in royal robes ^ she is descending 
 from a throne, and is in the act of granting her 
 protection to the city of Lisbon, which is fi- 
 gured also by a female in a swoon who with her 
 left hand is clinging for support to an escutcheon 
 having upon it the arms of the senate. By the 
 side of Generosity is her symbol the lion. On the 
 right side appears a man clad in mail, armed 
 with a lance, and holding in his hand a branch 
 of olive, by which is denoted State-Government 
 in the act of endeavouring to raise the fallen 
 city. A Genius, representing virtue, crowned 
 with laurel, having over his head a star, and 
 holding three crowns of laurel in his left hand, 
 conducts with his right State-Government to the 
 presence of Regal Generosity, to whom he lay 
 
 "j" On its restoration the following date was 
 added #12 de Outubro de 1833,*
 
 EQDESTRIAH STATUE. 
 
 open the design which it has formed of raising 
 the city. 
 
 Regal Generosity seems to approve the design 
 and with the left hand points out the site for 
 the work, which is seen commencing in the 
 erection of poles and columns, while its right 
 discloses the means for this purpose, which are 
 Commerce, Industry and Architecture. Com- 
 merce is personified by a man richly habited, 
 who on his knees presents Regal Generosity 
 with an open coffer filled with immense riches, 
 and near him are his peculiar symbols the stork 
 aud mill-stones. Industry is represented by a 
 female crowned with ripe ears of wheat, hold- 
 ing in her hand the rudder of a ship and two 
 keys. She is addressing herself to Commerce, to 
 whom she discovers Architecture, which is also 
 figured by a female, who having in her right 
 hand a square and compass, is holding with both 
 the plan of the city. 
 
 The figures above the pedestal rank among the 
 very first productions of the kind : but in casts of 
 metals we must not look for excellence in the 
 details, as the delicate touches of the chisel are 
 always lost in the foundry: if the general form 
 and the masses will bear the test of criticism, 
 we can expect no more, and in this respect
 
 EQUESTRIAN STATUE. 12:2 
 
 MaehaJq has acquitted himself in a masterly 
 manner. 
 
 Nor is less praise due to Bartholomew de Cos- 
 ta, who presided over the casting of the statue : he 
 founded the whole in one piece without failing 
 even in a single member, a circumstance which 
 has not perhaps occurred in any other work of the 
 kind of equal magnitude, till quite recently in 
 England, since the restoration of the art of casting 
 equestrian statues in bronze. De Costa not only 
 cast the statue, but conveyed it from the foundry 
 and raised it on the lofty pedestal on which it 
 stands. The liquid metal contained the enor- 
 mous mass of six hundred and fifty six and a 
 half quintals of bronze. The quintal is 128Z&S. 
 English. After the loss of metal sustained in the 
 polishing was subtracted, there remained five 
 hundred quintals of bronze. The skeleton or ar- 
 mofao of iron in the centre weighed a hundred 
 quintals making the whole weight of the eques- 
 trian statue six hundred quintals of bronae and 
 iron, or 76,200/&s. The statue was cast on the 
 15th. of October 1774. ' 
 
 The founder, as well as the sculptor, was a native 
 of Portugal : the former was honoured and re- 
 warded for his ingenuity by being promoted to
 
 123 EQTJESTRUN STATUE. 
 
 the rank and pay of brigadier in the service : 
 but the latter, who has an undoubted claim to 
 the principal merit of the work, was neglected 
 and forgotten. It is true that his sovereign 
 created him a knight on the occasion:, but after 
 that, he was left to pine in obscurity in an atlic 
 cell. It is related ^hat he petitioned a gentleman 
 high in office to have the floor of his wretched 
 apartment repaired : and a few years ago a pub- 
 lic subscription was got up to rescue his survi- 
 ving relatives from starvation. 
 
 The costly magnificence displayed at the in- 
 auguration of this statue deserves to be men- 
 tioned. The ceremony commenced on the 6th. 
 of June, on which day the monarch attained 
 his 6 1st. year, and lasted during eight successive 
 days. AH that Lisbon possessed of wealth , rank 
 and beauty was brought together on this memora- 
 ble occasion. The first d,-iy was entirely occupied 
 by the ceremonial of the inauguration, during 
 which the court, nobles, knights as well as all 
 the civil and military bodies successively paid 
 Ihcir respects to the image of their sovereign. 
 On the second day, their Majesties and the royal 
 family came to the square in a grand procession, 
 in which were carried on magnificent cars repre- 
 sentations or emblems of the four quarters of the
 
 CUSTOM HOU3B. 124 
 
 globe, of the ocean, of the arts and sciences, and 
 of the kingdom of Portugal. After viewing the 
 splendid arrangements in the square, the royal 
 suite withdrew to apartments in the Custom 
 house, where they were entertained with concerts 
 and other amusements, after which a sumptuous 
 banquet was served up in the large hall (Sola 
 grande) such as no Lord Mayor's feast ever 
 equalled. Our readers may be able to form some 
 idea of the magnificence of this fete from a glance 
 at the expences which amounted to 40:722. 600rs. 
 or .L.9.167. During the remaining seven days 
 repetitions of the first day's ceremonies, proces- 
 sions, spectacles, illuminations and concerts con- 
 tinued to delight the immense crowds of spec- 
 tators that flocked from every quarter. 
 
 The east side of the Praca do Commercio 
 contains the office of the minister of the Inte- 
 rior, the Custom House and its dependen- 
 cies, the Exchange, and the Tribunal of com- 
 merce. The two latter occupy the square build- 
 ing at the southern extremity. The Exchange is a 
 large and commodious hall which is entered 
 from the arsade, and is intersected by four rows 
 of marble columns. It contains compartments 
 for various companies, such as the Insurance
 
 CUSTOM HOO&Z. 
 
 company, Steam company, &c. and it furnished 
 with a commodious reading-room. Above the 
 exchange and communicating with it by a stair- 
 case, is the Tribunal of commerce. The Custom 
 house of Lisbon, whether we consider its inter- 
 ral arrangements, its decorations, its strength 
 or capaciousness, is perhaps not surpassed by any 
 othr edifice of the kind in the world. *'Here" 
 ays Murphy u are no palaces for commissioner* 
 to dwell in, nor dark cells for clerks to write 
 in, nor ct liars floating with watt r to hold dry 
 goods." Every stranger should visit this edifice. 
 Ascending a broad and i.oble staircase of two 
 flights he will enter a magnificent room of 173 
 feet long, by 69 broad. At the four corners of 
 this vast apartment ar< passages leading to the 
 various store-rooms and offices, all of which cor- 
 respond in spaciousness with the principal room. 
 The whole building, including the India-house, 
 forms a square, the interior of which is planted 
 with trees, and contains an elegant fountain, sur- 
 rounded by seats for the accommodation of idler*. 
 In this square is kept, as a kind of curiosity f 
 a small brass cannon, so hitunti d under three 
 lenses as to discharge itself exactly at the hours 
 f 9, 17, and 3 o'clock by the rys of the tun
 
 PUBLIC OFFICKS. 
 
 
 
 concenf rated in the focus. It may here be re- 
 marked o the credit of the Portuguese that, hi 
 spit* uf the depressed itate of their finance*, 
 much elegance and evc-n magnificence is dis- 
 jjljiyed in many of their public offices. It would 
 be \v<-ii if we could add that equal attention had 
 been paid to improve and simplify the method 
 of administrating the affair* that are transacted 
 within them, instead of creating unnecessary im- 
 pediments to the dispatch of business. 
 
 The north side of the square contains the office 
 of thp minister of Justice and Ecclesiastical affairs 
 The Junta do Credito Publico The Supreme 
 Tribunal of Justice, and the Municipal Chamber 
 The West side contains the office of the minis- 
 ter of Foreign Affairs The treasury The offi- 
 ces of the ministers of Finance, of the Marine 
 and of the War departments. 
 
 Passing along the Rua do Arsenal the termi- 
 nation of which forms the north west entrance 
 to the Praja do Commercio, VK> enter the Largo 
 do Pelourinho, (Pillory Place). This square 
 contains in the centre a twisted column of stone 
 supporting an armillary sphere. Instead of this 
 quiet ornament the column was formerly sur- 
 mounted by several iron spikes, intended to sup- 
 port tht heads of criminals after execution. As
 
 127 ARSENAL. 
 
 significant emblems of justice, similar columns, 
 or Pflourinhos, are erected in those towns of 
 Portugal, which possess judicial tribunals. For 
 the substitution of the armillary sphere in the 
 Pelourinho of Lisbon, in place of the horrid points, 
 .the stern mementos of guilt overtaken by the 
 law, we are indebted to a humane o^dcr of D. 
 Pedro soon after his arrival. 
 
 On the south side of this square is the Arse- 
 nal. This building is remarkable for containing 
 a magnificent room, termed COKO do risco, in 
 which is a model-ship, completely rigged, and 
 serving for the exercise of the young men, who 
 ;ire learning nautical tactics. It also contains 
 apartments for the Board of Health , and a na- 
 val school. Attached to it is a dock for build- 
 ing vessels of war. The last^line-of-battle ship 
 that was launched from it was the Vasco da 
 Gama, which after being twenty years on the 
 stocks, was set afloat five or six years ago, and 
 has since made but one voyage viz. from the 
 bar of Lisbon to that of St. Ubes. 
 
 In the Arsenal yard there is a fountain of 
 mineral waters, principally containing sulphu- 
 retted hydrogen, which have been lately used 
 with much success for medical purposes.
 
 CORPO SANTO. 
 
 *The bank of Lisbon forms the east side of the 
 Largo do Pelourinho ^ the other sides are formed 
 of regular buildings, consisting of dwelling- 
 houses, four stories in height. At the northwest 
 corner of this square is the office of the only 
 Omnibus Company in Lisbon, which amongst 
 its shareholders reckons no less a personage than 
 King Ferdinand v who soon after his arrival in 
 the country entered his name with a laudable 
 view of stimulating his subjects to engage in na- 
 tional improvements. 
 
 Largo do Corpo Santo. Caes do Sodrc. Fish 
 
 market. Fort, and Largo de 8. Paulo. Mint. 
 
 Esperanto. Palace das Necessidades. Royal 
 
 family. 
 
 1 To observations, which ourselves we make, 
 We grow more partial for th' observer's sake.' 
 
 Pope. 
 
 Advancing along Rua do Arsenal, we come 
 to a small square, called Largo do Corpo Santo^ 
 the southern side of which is open to the river, 
 and the western is formed by a church and con- 
 vent belonging to the Irish Dominicans. This 
 R 2
 
 139 COBPO SANTO. 
 
 religious foundation, the only one we believe 
 in the entire Peninsula, in -which the members 
 of the Dominican or indeed of any other order 
 still live in community, was commenced in the 
 year 1C59 by Donna Louisa de Gusman, the 
 celebrated queen of Don John IV.surnamed the 
 Restaurador. The building was entirely des- 
 troyed by the earthquake of 1755, on which oc- 
 casion it is recorded that one of the good fathers 
 fearlessly rushed into the midst of the falling 
 Tuins,for the purpose of rescuing the eacredpix, 
 and having succeeded bore it in procession to 
 the church of St. Elizabeth, attended by a vast 
 concourse of people, imploring the Divine mer- 
 cy. Several years elapsed before the fathers 
 were enabled to rebuild their seminary and lit- 
 tle church. Many respectable Catholic families 
 in Ireland gave munificent donations for this 
 purpose : the rest of the expense was generously 
 defrayed by the Portuguese, whose humanity 
 was excited in favour of men, whom a cruel and 
 disgraceful code of sanguinary laws, which are 
 yet unrepealed, had excluded from the common 
 rights of citizenship in their native land. Many 
 illustrious men have been here educated, who 
 were afterwards promoted to the mitre in Ire- 
 land and elsewhere, not to mention many others
 
 . 11SH MARKET. lo'O 
 
 who by their enlightened zeal, and self-devoted- 
 ness and charity, Lave merited the love of all 
 good rnen. Thus has this religious seminary 
 by sending forth faithful pastors to a faithful 
 people played its part in assuaging those evils 
 which odious and oppressive systems of govern- 
 ment during two centuries of misrule accumu- 
 lated on unhappy Ireland. 
 
 A little further on is the Pra^a de Romula- 
 res otherwise called Caes do Sodrt-, both which 
 appellations are derived from the names of for- 
 mer proprietors of the surrounding buildings. 
 This square is remarkable for little elso than for 
 having once been the site of a fort, constructed 
 for no conceivable object except to annoy the 
 inhabitants in the time of Don Miguel, on which 
 occasion a similar one \vas erected in the Ter- 
 reiro do Paco. Here also were strangled and 
 burnt in the same reign five individuals con- 
 demned for conspiring against the then existing 
 government. 
 
 Passing onwards in the same direction we 
 come to the fish-market Ribcira Nora. This 
 market is large and commodiously arranged. 
 Perhaps no place in the world is supplied Vv7th 
 greater abundance and variety of fish, which, 
 upt withstanding the heavy duties levied on it on
 
 131 MINT. 
 
 its entrance into the market may be purchased 
 at one half the price at which it sells in London. 
 Contiguous to the Fish market is the fort of 
 St. Paul which serves as a convenient dep6t for 
 ship cannon, and contains lodgements for dis- 
 abled soldiers. 
 
 Passing the square and church of St. Paul's which 
 possesses a handsome front and is spacious and 
 elegant in its interior, we come to the mint. 
 This edifice contains a powerful steam engine 
 and machinery for coining, but the objects in 
 it most attractive to a traveller are a collection 
 of rich gold and silver ornaments, which were 
 taken from the suppressed convents and are here 
 deposited. Among others may be mentioned a 
 golden cross weighing twelve marks four ounces 
 given by Don Sancho I. to the church of the 
 Holy Cross at Coimbra in 1212: a large an- 
 cient cross of silver, another of gold inlaid with 
 precious stones, and a large pix, also set with 
 stones from Alcobaca : a magnificent silver re- 
 monstrance or sepulchre for Holy Week, of Go- 
 thic design, taken from the house of the religious 
 knights of Thomar : a remonstrance taken from 
 the Patriarchal church, which cost one million 
 two hundred thousand crowns: another from 
 the church of Bemposta, which is worth by
 
 ESPERA.N9A. 132 
 
 weight seventeen contos, about L. 4.250, exclu- 
 sive of the diamonds and other precious stones 
 with which it is inlaid : a third remonstrance 
 taken from the church of Belem, and which was 
 made by order of king Emmanuel out of the first 
 gold that was brought from GLuiloa : an an- 
 cient exquisitely wrought chalice taken from 
 Tbomar : two others from Coimbra : a royal 
 sceptre made of gold gathered from the sands of 
 the Tagus : with several other rich and beau- 
 tiful specimens. 
 
 For admission apply to the director (Prove- 
 dor) or his substitute, who is usually on the spot. 
 
 Continuing in the same direction, we come 
 to the bottom of the Calgada do Marquez d' Abran- 
 tes. Turning a little to the right, we enter the 
 Largo da Esperantja. Here is a convent of Nuns 
 of the order called of Poor Clares. The church 
 has little to recommend it ^ this convent is fa- 
 mous for very superior sweetmeats, which may 
 be purchased at the gate. In the square is a 
 fountain, surrounded as usual with abundance 
 of noisy Gallegos. Previously to the arrival of 
 Don Pedro, there stood in this square a cross sur- 
 rounded by the emblems of the crucifixion beau- 
 tifully wrought in stone the whole being en- 
 closed within iron rails. Similar emblems were
 
 ISTi EiPERAN^A. 
 
 formerly often to -be met with in the town and 
 country } but beautiful and expressive as they 
 were in a Christian land, they were torn down 
 with as savage a recklessness, as pagan Goth or 
 Vandal ceuld have displayed, even the cross 
 erected by St. Elizabeth to commemorate the 
 memorable reconciliation effected by her prayers 
 and intreaties, fell beneath the iconoclastic rage 
 of the enlightened legislators of 1833. 
 
 Returning to the main road, and passing the 
 residence of the empress, widow of Don Pedro, 
 the parish church of the Santos, and the residences 
 cf the Conde de Murga, Viscount d'Asseca, Baro- 
 ness da Regalera, Marquis de Pombal, Marquis 
 das Minas and Countess of Sabugal, we arrive 
 at the convent of St. John of God, at present trans- 
 formed into barracks for soldiers, nearly oppo- 
 site which is a neat church with an elegant mar- 
 ble front, dedicated in honour of St. Francis of 
 Paul. Continuing in the same direction we come 
 to the foot of the hill that leads us to the pre- 
 sent residence of the royal family, the palaco of 
 the Necessidades."]" 
 
 | Palace of Necessities. This ominous ap- 
 pellation gave rise some time ago to a humou- 
 rous remark in one of the daily papers. Costa 
 Cabralj who was prime minUter, was at that
 
 NECESSlDADE-3. 134- 
 
 An account of the foundation of this Palace 
 with its annexed church and convent, may be ac- 
 ceptable to our readers. It owes its title, to an 
 image of our Lady of health, which was brought 
 by a weaver to Alcantara from the village of Eri- 
 ceira, whither he had fled to escape the pesti- 
 lence of 1598. This man lodged his image in 
 a small chapel which he was enabled to build by 
 the alms of the faithful, and which he dedicated 
 to St. Mary under the title of Our Lady Relie- 
 ver of Necessities. In a short time the imago 
 became famous, and was much resorted to by 
 the population under the impression that many 
 wonderful cures had been obtained from God by 
 Christ's holy Mother in favour of those who took 
 this mode of seeking her intercession. Among 
 others Don John V. entertained a particular 
 veneration for this image, and attributed to the 
 prayers of Her whom it represented his recovery 
 
 time living in the Travessa dos Ladroes or 
 Thieves* lane. The principal cemetery of the 
 town is denominated Alto dos Prazeres, or heiyht 
 of joys. ''What good 1 ' asked the writer, "can be 
 expected in a country where the monarch lives in 
 the palace of necessities, the minister has fixed 
 his residence in a lane of thieves, and where the 
 the height of joys belongs exclusively to the dead! 1
 
 136 NECESMDADES. 
 
 from a dangerous illness in 1742. Ingratitude 
 for this cure, he purchased the whole of the 
 ground which forms the present site of the edi- 
 fice of the Necessidades, and built himself a 
 pulace close to the chapt-l which he enlarged and 
 enriched. In addition to this he constructed a 
 convent, in which he placed clergymen, whose 
 institute was to exercise the ordinary duties of the 
 priesthood, and also to give instruction to youth 
 in all the sciences. These priests who belonged 
 to the Congregation of St. Philip Neri, and 
 who were also known under the appellation of 
 Oratorians, were put in possession of this con- 
 vent in 1747. 
 
 The buildings are delightfully situated and 
 possess an excellent view of the river and its 
 banks. The palace has an imposing entrance 
 farmed of polished marble. There are also to 
 be seen here two magnificent staircases of stone 
 panelled on each side as well as on the ceiling. 
 The conveniences of the original palace have been 
 materially increased by the annexation of the 
 suppressed convent, and its extensive gardens, 
 which have been lately converted into gay 
 and elegant parterres, and which may be visited 
 in the absence of the queen by obtaining a tic- 
 ket from one of the lords in waiting. The
 
 ROYAL FAMILY. 136 
 
 church is small but elegant and built entirely 
 of stone, and has at its entrance a statue of St. Pe- 
 ter by the Roman sculptor Giusti, and another 
 of St. Paul, by Almeida a native of Portugal. 
 The Portico itself is well worthy of attention 
 for the beauty of its design and execution. 
 It is reached by five st^ps, has four columns 
 and three arches in front, and an arch on each 
 5de, with a verandah and ornamented balus- 
 trade. Observe the marble statues of St. Charles 
 Borromeo and St. Camillus de Lellis on each 
 side of the great window as well as the images 
 of the Blessed Virgin with the infant in her arms t 
 surrounded by attendant angels in relievo over 
 the door. 
 
 On the terrace in front of the building is an 
 elaborately wrought fountain. In the midst of 
 the tank rises an obelisk of red marble, thirty 
 palms high, surmounted by a gilt ball and cross 
 of bronze. 
 
 As we are on the subject of the ordinary re- 
 sidence of the present sovereign of Portugal*, a 
 succinct account of the persons composing the 
 reigning fajnily may be here properly introduced. 
 The name of her Most Faithful Majesty is Don- 
 na Maria da Gloria, Joanna, Carlota, Leopoldi- 
 na, Isidora da Cruz, Francisca Xavierde Paula, 
 s 3
 
 137 ROYAL FAMILY. 
 
 Micbaela, Gabriela, Luita Gonzaga. Her titles 
 are Queen of Portugal and the Algarves,"}" La- 
 dy of Guinea and of the navigation, conquest 
 and commerce of Ethiopia, Arabia, Persia, &c. 
 She was born on the 4th. of April 1819 : in 1834 
 he married the prince Don Augusto Carlos, 
 duke of Leuchtenberg, &c, who died in March 
 1835: in 1836 she married her second husband, 
 the present king and commander in chief of the 
 army, Don Ferdinand, Augustus, Francis An- 
 thony duke of Saxe-Cobnrg Gotha, who was born 
 on the 29th. of October 1816. 
 
 The following arc the names of the royal 
 offspring. 
 
 1st. The most Serene Lord D. Peter of Al- 
 cantara, Maria, Fernando, Miguel, Rafael, Ga- 
 briel, Gonsaga, Xavier, Jono, Antonio, Leopol- 
 do, Victor, Francisco d'Assis, Julio, Amalio da 
 Saxe-Coburg Gotha, deBragane,a e Bourbon, the 
 hereditary prince, who was born 16th. of Sep- 
 tember 1837. 
 
 2nd. The Most Serene Lord D. Lewis Philip, 
 Maria, Fernando, Pedro d'Alcaulara, Miguel, 
 Rafael, Gabriel, Gonzaga, Xavier. F/ancisco d' 
 
 | Algarves, of which there two } one at pre- 
 sent forming the southern province of Portugal, 
 the other on the African coast.
 
 R01A.L FAMILY. 131 
 
 Assis, Joao, Augusto, Julio de Braganga e Bour- 
 bon, Infante and duke of Oporto , who was born 
 on the 31bt. of October 1838. 
 
 3rd. The Most^ Serene Lord D. John Mary, 
 P'ernando, Pedro d'Alcantara, Miguel, Rafael, 
 Gabriel, Gregorio, L^opoldo, Carlos, Antonio, 
 Francisco d'Assis, Borja, Gonzaga, Felix, de 
 Braganga e Bourbon, Saxe-Coburg Gotha, Infant* 
 duke of Beja, who was born on the 16th. March 
 J842. 
 
 4th. Her Most Serene Highness Donna Maria 
 Anna, Fernanda, Leopoldina, Michaela, Rala- 
 ela, Gabrida, Carlota, Antonia, Julia, Victoria, 
 Franedes, Francisca d'Assis, Gonzaga de Bra- 
 ganga e Bourbon Saxe-Coburg Gotha, who wai 
 born on the 21st. of July 1843. 
 
 5th. Her Most Serene Highness Donna Anlo- 
 nia, Maria, Fernanda, Michaela, Gabriela, Ra- 
 faela, d'Assis, Anna, Isabel, Gonzaga, Silvina, 
 Julia, Augusta de Braganga e Bourbon Saxe-Co- 
 burg Gotha, who was born on the 17th. of Fe- 
 bruary 1845. 
 
 6th. The Most Serene Lord D. Ferdinand, Ma- 
 ria ,Luiz, Miguel, Rafael, Gabriel,Francisco d' As- 
 eis, Gonzaga, Antonio, A ppollinariode Braganga 
 e Bourbon Saxe-Coburg Gotha, who was born on 
 the 23rd. of July 184(5.
 
 139 ROYAT. ARMS. 
 
 The Royal arms are, argent, five escut- 
 cheons, azure, placed crosswise, each charged 
 with as many besants as the first placed falter- 
 wise, and sable, for Portugal. The shield, bor- 
 dered, gules, charged with seven towers, or three 
 in chief and two in each flank. The supporters 
 are two winged dragons, aud the crest a dragon, 
 or under the two flanches, and the base of the 
 shie/d appears at the end of it, and two crosses, 
 the first flower-de-luce vert, which is for the 
 order of Aviz, and the second patee, gules, for 
 the ordet of Christ } the motto is changeable, 
 each king assuming a new one, but it is frequent- 
 ly Pro Rtge tt Gregt, "For the King and the 
 people." 
 
 >
 
 ALCANTARA BRIDGE. 140 
 
 Bridge of Alcantara. Calvario. Royal coaches 
 Rope walk. Private residences. Btlem quay, 
 Ajuda. Botanical garden. Church of St. Jo- 
 seph. Royal palace. Churchof St. Jerone, 
 Casa pia. Bom Successo. Belem Castle. 
 
 'Mid pleasures and palaces tho 1 we may roam, 
 Bs it ever so humble there's no place like home ! 
 
 Song. 
 
 * 
 
 Quitting the palace of the Necessidades, and 
 continuing our way to the westward, we reach 
 the bridge of Alcantara, on the right parapet of 
 which is a fine statue of St. John Nepomucen. 
 This statue was erected by Donna Maria Anna 
 de Austria, whose superb mausoleum may be 
 seen in the church bearing the saint's name. This 
 valuable specimen of statuary was the work of 
 the Sculptor Padua. It was placed on the centre 
 of the bridge in remembrance of the martyr hav- 
 ing been thrown from the bridge of Prague into 
 the waters of the Moldaw for refusing to break 
 the inviolable secrecy of confession ^ it was so- 
 lemnly inaugurated in the year 1744. 
 
 At the Calvario, at a little distance from the 
 bridge of Alcantara, in a building constructed 
 T
 
 141 UOYAL COACHES. 
 
 for this purpose by Don John V. there is a col- 
 lection of ancient coaches, perhaps the most cu- 
 rious now anywhere existing. There is a very 
 remarkable state coach of king Alphonso Hen- 
 riques,who reigned from 1128 till 1185, which 
 has icven beautiful Venetian windows, each from 
 8 to 9 palms square; the cushions are inter- 
 woven with gold thread: it contains also paint- 
 ings, raised work, and ornaments of gilt bronze^ 
 these latter equal if not exceed the most beau- 
 tiful works in or-mouluof the French. Noaritis 
 ;m uqwieldy coach made in Brazil, and ornamen- 
 ted with gold. Another coach equally rich of Em- 
 manuel the Great is in addition covered with 
 beautiful relievos. There is also to be found 
 here the state coach of king Dennis, who reigned 
 in 1279, and in which no doubt must have sat 
 his queen, the saintly Elizabeth : on the box are 
 wrought flowers and coats of arms on a ground 
 of gold in the highest perfection } the interior 
 is lined with gold brocade. There is also a series 
 of coaches constructed in Madrid of two and four 
 scats, which brought to Portugal the Infanta of 
 Spain, Donna Maria Anna Victoria, daughter of 
 king Philip V. when she espoused Don Joseph 
 I. then prince of Brazil. These Spanish coachei are 
 lich,btfor the most partinconvenient : they are
 
 ROYAL STABLES. 142 
 
 covered with velvet galoons and gilding. There 
 arc also a great number of other carriages, 
 which are something between the triumphant 
 Roman cars and our modern Tilburies, a nd wera 
 destined to draw the images of the saints in pro- 
 cessions. There exist here, too, in considerable 
 numbers the berlindas of the Infantes and little 
 donkey carriages, ancient carts, and chaises, all 
 built as clumsily as if they were carriers carts, 
 with a great profusion, however, of different 
 coloured paintings and gilding. This collec- 
 tion is terminated by a number of heavy un- 
 sightly coaches which were made in Paris by 
 order of Johu VI. who^was then prince regent. 
 In the whole may be observed a gradual tran- 
 sition from the heavy pomp of antiquity to the 
 greater convenience of modern times. 
 
 Near this historical depot of carriages, are the 
 royal stables, which are admirably arranged, 
 lofty, airy, and provided with spring water. 
 They contain at present about sixty mules. These 
 with a hundred and twenty horses form the ro- 
 yal stud. In the time of Joseph I. and his daugh- 
 ter Mary I. it consisted of about two thousand of 
 these animals : Don John VI. reduced this num- 
 ber to one half: and Don Miguel pessessed ome
 
 143 KOPE WALK. 
 
 hundreds. It would be difficult to discover th 
 necessity for such a number of horses were it not 
 known that not only all the personages attached 
 to the service of the court, but even all the lords 
 and noblemen in the kingdom could, at the time 
 of which we are speaking, ride all day long at 
 the cost of the palace. For this purpose sufficed 
 at written order from the chief equerry or even 
 one of his subordinates. This order was prompt- 
 ly obeyed, and frequently lasted whole years : 
 however there then existed the treasures of Bra- 
 ril which allowed of every kind of folly and co- 
 vered every expense. 
 
 In contiguity with these coach houses is an 
 asylum for destitute female orphans, which gives 
 the name Calvario to this locality. Passing the 
 residences of the count of Ribeira,the barons of 
 Folgora and Junqueira, we approach through a 
 long avenue of trees terminating in a garden 
 connected with the Porto Franco or dep6t for 
 bonded goods, to the Cordoaria, an extensive . 
 building which serves as a rope manufactory. 
 This yellow edifice, about five hundred yards in 
 length, was built by queen Mary I., and con- 
 tains a workshop for mathematical instruments. 
 The cordage and sailcloth departments occupy 
 upwards of three hundred labourers. One half
 
 AJUD*. 
 
 of this building was destroyed by fire in the 
 year 1825, hut was shortly af'er rebuilt. 
 
 A littlf ftirlh'-r on, the road op^ns into a sfjua re 
 form -rly known byth- naim* >f L:i.rgod>' Belem, 
 but now entitl'-d Praca d-- Don F-Tiian io in ho- 
 nour of his pr-stMif Mij-sty. lu principal re- 
 commendation' is a very coinmoilious ami hand- 
 sonic quay. From th s point piss^gi* boats ire 
 continually plying ti> Lit>on ; and in this square 
 thi'cify Oinnibos -s >top. At the not th c;it i- the 
 termin.it ion of a l>n^ hro.nl stn?et wlilch con- 
 ducts t> th P.ihee of tin- Aj'ili. About the 
 mi I II if this str.- t on t'i- ri^ht-h.ind si Ic at 
 you ascfii'l, tlere is stn an extensive ranir of 
 buil lings t!if harrai-ks of the household troops, 
 both cavalry and infantry. 
 
 Th'i palace of th Aj ida, were it. finished on 
 th' gigantic scale orlginnlfy proposed, though it 
 docs nut appear at all prohaltle at present that 
 it ever will he, wouM unHotilitedly form one 
 of the mo*t extensive piles of building in Eu- 
 rope. Not one third of th< vast fabric is yet 
 completed; y-t it has air ady served a* a resi- 
 der.C" for th^ royal family in the reign of Don 
 John VI. It stand* on the site of a temporary 
 edifice of wood, that was hastily constructed to 
 rve as au habitation for the royal family im 
 
 T $
 
 145 AJVDA. 
 
 after the farlhquake of 1755, and 
 which was subsequently destroyed by fire. The 
 gr.imlfath'T of li-r p.fftt-nt M;j-i1y when Re- 
 gent Lid the first stum- of this palace. The fa- 
 jadc which look-s to tin- south, ami was intended 
 to have been the principal mf, eompriftPB two 
 or'.'rrs of architf'.'tiir'-, the Tuscan ami Compo- 
 it'-. TliH -fist si. It*, which IIHS \tffn nearly com- 
 pU-ti'd, prrs'Mit* to tlx- view a lieavy ve^tillule, 
 flmk 'I \-y tlirre porticos, supported hy co- 
 lumns, in which are placed nl|i't>rical statucgj 
 the woi k of I'orttijriiese artists, some of them 
 lv Joachim .M.ich.idn de Cnstro. On this side 
 the l\\o wins^, which are one story higher than 
 the r>t of the Kuililings, re biirrouixled l>y ba- 
 lustrades and are each ornamented t>v twelve 
 trophies. The interior of th<- t><)ifice is divided 
 into apartments, some of which are finished, and 
 have their wallt pointed in fresco. The best it 
 that representing the acclamation, of th'- Duke of 
 Bragnnga under the title of Don John IV., (he 
 work of a Portuguese artit by name Luii da 
 Cunha Tahorda. The \j. w presented from the 
 top of the building \\ill amply r.ipay the trouble 
 of ascending the \vinding staircase that leads to 
 the umtnit.
 
 BOTANICAL GARDEN. 
 
 Of this palace Prince Liehnovrky in bit 
 u Recollrctions of 1842," thus writes: 
 
 "What interest can I take in tliis enormou* 
 and cold mass of stone, abandoned to loiilinefs, 
 without a past and without a present f unfj- 
 nish'd modern ruin*, which offer nothing and 
 recall notliii g lo recollection! The wrt-tched style 
 of tin' lxt century, the ugly statues, the cold 
 marble, itll this cannot please merely because 
 eighty millions of crnzadcs were spfiit on the 
 work, atid beciKise it would be a great work if 
 it wt r<- to V)' completi d. 1 ' 
 
 \VithoiitMiliscribing1o thieswreping condem- 
 nation i-f liis German Highness, we may afely 
 assort, that Ihe money already employed in thii 
 edifice might have built a complete paluce of 
 greater taste and elegance, and more in keeping 
 with the extent of the dominions and finance* 
 of the monarch!) of Portugal. At a short distance 
 from this Palace towards the east is an ample 
 park, (Tapada) in which are some game and 
 a fi'W deer. 
 
 The next object of iivterest in this neighbour- 
 hood is the Botrtnic-al garden. This- deserves to 
 be visited not for the number or variety of iti 
 plants but for two curious military figures of 
 stone that were disinterred near Portalegre in
 
 147 ROY At. PA LACK. 
 
 the year 1735 and are said to be of Phenician 
 workmanship. 
 
 At no great distance from the Botat.ical gar- 
 den on the west side stands a beautiful little 
 church ofs>tone, dedicated in honour of St.Jo>'ph: 
 it is usually called the " Memorial as it was 
 erected to commemorate the providential escape 
 of king Joseph I. from attempted assassination. 
 It is built on the spot where the shot was fired 
 at him. The beauty of this little temple and 
 it solitary position gave occasion to the remark 
 - l 'that it looks as if it had been placed there by 
 the h.indi of ang> Is."f 
 
 R< turning to the Praca de Don Fernando we 
 may <>! s'T\r a number of -.tatties Ending on the 
 wall that binds the north side of the square. 
 They belong to the Royal gardens denominated 
 Quinta do 6ai.ro. Adjoining th?o gardens is a 
 Court surrounded by densor r;ige., for wiM beasti, 
 almost all of which are utitenanted. There it 
 here a No a Royal p-il.ice tho principal front of 
 which is on the side of the gardens. It is re- 
 markable for little else than a good b.ill-room, 
 in which her present Ivl.ij^sty used to receive com- 
 pany. In ths immediat vicinity of the palace 
 there is a large and commodious riding school 
 
 | K.nlrn DJgby's Age of Faith.
 
 CHURCH O7 ST. JEROME. 146 
 
 "Picadeiro" which may not be uninteresting t* 
 gentlemen of the whip. 
 
 The next object that will arrest the stranger's 
 attention, as he continues to follow the course 
 of th? river will he the magnificent convent and 
 church of St. Jerome. This interesting pile was 
 commenced by Emmanuel the Great in 1499, 
 and was completed by his son and .successor 
 John III.J" It was from this spot that Vascod* 
 Gama embarked, when he set out on that me- 
 morable voyage of discovery which has immor- 
 taliz"d his name. That was an age of faith, 
 the bold adventurer spent the night previous to 
 his embarkation in prayer in a small chapel on 
 the strand ; and his royal master reared the 
 'beauteous structure of which we are speaking, 
 in thanksgiving to God for the success with which 
 the rxppdition was crowned. An impulse had 
 before been given to maritime discovery by th 
 
 tOver the door of the entrance of the Monas- 
 tery is seen the following inscription, said to 
 have been written by the famous Andre de Re- 
 zende : 
 
 41 Vasta mole 'sacrum divinae in littore matri, 
 RPX posuit Regum maximus Emmanuel} 
 Auxit opes haeres regni et pietatis, uterqve 
 Structura certant, religione pares,*' 

 
 CHURCH OF ST. JEROUC.. 
 
 celebrated Don Honrique :, and his statue, look- 
 ing towards the sra, was prominently placed 
 over th pillar that divides the main entrance, 
 while those of Emmanuel and his quetn stand 
 over the two doors. The style of Architecture 
 is a com pound of the Moresque and Norman Go- 
 thic. The principal entrance is worthy of at- 
 tention for its richly ornamented sculpture, its 
 Statues, of whieh there are not less than thirty.and 
 the harmonious proportions of the whole. The 
 interior is imposing beyond all description. The 
 broad roof is supported by pillars of white mar- 
 ble of such surpassing lightness, that it is said 
 that as soon as the work was finished, the archi- 
 tect was obliged to abscond to screen himself 
 from the severe censures that were passed upon 
 him by the critics of the day who confidently pre- 
 dicted, that the'roof would fall in as soon as the 
 scaffolding should be taken away; and so far 
 did these surmises influence the mind of the king 
 that he ordered the wood-work to be removed 
 by the hands of condemned felons, with the pro- 
 mise that if they escaped the presumed danger 
 they should be set at liberty.^ The scaffolding 
 
 "{Something of the same kind is related of the 
 the Chapter-house of the famous convent olBata- 
 Iha. The anecdote may be true of both edifice.
 
 CMUKCH OF T. 
 
 was removed ; the building stood ^ and the archi- 
 tect skulked from his hiding-place The winds 
 and storms of nearly four centuries have passed 
 over it, and the building stands : the earth- 
 quake of 17.55 rudely shook its foundations, yrt 
 St. Jerome's slands. The only pa*t of the church 
 at all injured by that awful calamity was th' 
 arch of the transept, which came down to the 
 ground the year following, but was soon after 
 restored. The architect is said to have been an 
 Italian of the name of Potassi."f" 
 
 The high altar is entirely covered with silver, 
 and on either side of it are marble sarcophagi, 
 upported upon elephants, and containing the 
 remains of the Founder king Emmanuel, and 
 his queen Donna Maria, third daughter of Fer- 
 dinand the Catholic :, of his son Don John III. 
 and of the queen of the latter, Catharine of Aus- 
 tria, daughter of Philip the first of Spain. The 
 
 fAbbade Castro in his "Description of th 
 royal monastery of Belem, 1840," had stated this 
 to be the name of the principal architect. This 
 was contradicted by Siir. Vernhagen ; but after 
 a patient investigation of the documents on thii 
 ubject existing in the Torre do Tombo^ thii 
 impartial antiquary has acknowledged his error 
 and subscribed to Custro'i opinion. .
 
 CKCRCM OF tT. JF.ROH*. 
 
 inscription on the tomb of Emmanuel tun Great 
 it remarkable : 
 
 Littore ab occiduo qui primi ad limina solii 
 Extendit cultum notitiarnque Dei \ 
 
 Tot rege domiti cui submisere thiaras, 
 Conditur hoc tumulo Maximus Emmanuel. 
 
 Behind the High Altar there is n small cham- 
 ber containing the remains of Don AlphnnsoIY. 
 and his infant child. His body is dressed in UM 
 costume of the period in which ho Imd, and 
 though two centuries have elapsed, the whole It 
 tolerably perfect. 
 
 Perhaps the most striking objects in this sump- 
 tuous edifice are the pulpits, which face each 
 other towards the middle of the nave. Thoyare 
 formed of the most beautiful red and dark ash- 
 coloured marbles, and are exquisitely carved. 
 The length of the church is about one hundred 
 aud thirty paces ^ it is lighted by windows of 
 stained glass, an improvement effected by his 
 present Majesty Don Fernando. 
 
 The choir, which is at the western extremity, 
 is paved with beautiful Brazil wood the stalls 
 are exquisitely carved with delicate Arabesque 
 tracery. It is hung round with good paintings 
 of the twelve Apostles. The organ was one of 
 the Inrjrest. hfit-toKcd and most complete in the
 
 CHURCH OF ST. JEROME. 152 
 
 country, but is now quite in ruins. Many of 
 the smaller pipes have been stolen and sold for 
 the value of the metal they contained, and a thou- 
 sand pounds would be required for its thorough 
 repair. A smaller and quite inferior instrument 
 stands on the opposite side, and is sometimes 
 played in the summer months when the church 
 is visited by the Royal family. 
 
 The sacristy of this edifice is rich and spa- 
 cious, and is entered by a short corridor on the 
 north side of the chancel. The chief feature of 
 interest which it now retains, and indeed of 
 which it will be difficult to deprive it, is the 
 gallery of pictures on its walls delineating 
 various portions of the life of St. Jerome. Not 
 long ago the sacristy was possessed of gold and 
 silver plate of an almost incredible value; but 
 by an order of the needy government in the time 
 of Don Peter, the larger portion of its sacred 
 treasures was carried off for greater security to 
 the royal mint where much of it is believed by 
 many to have seen the light in the shape of the 
 current coin of the realm. It has been said 
 we know not with what truth that the plate 
 from this venerable sanctuary filled two large 
 lighters.
 
 153 CHURCH OF T. JEROME. 
 
 Perhaps the most beautiful portion of this an- 
 cient structure in the eyes of the lovers of art 
 will be found in the cloister, which has been de- 
 clared by discerning tourists to be one of the finest 
 specimens of ecclesiastical architecture now exist- 
 ing in the world. It forms a regular square, each 
 side of which is ninety feet in length. In the 
 centre is a court tastefully decorated with foun- 
 tains, tanks, marble scats, and grass plots. Along 
 each side of tha square runs a light and airy 
 piazza, paved with marble, teeming with beauti- 
 ful tracery appropriately surmounted with high- 
 ly ornamented windows which light the interior. 
 The whole^ however is rapidly passing to decay, 
 while images defaced and vacant places in the 
 walls where altars have stood, tell of the blind 
 rage of men who war on the religion, to the in- 
 spirations of which so much beauty owed its 
 origin. 
 
 The monastery itself which is attached to the 
 church, and runs from east to west, consists of 
 two long galleries, with cells on each side, over 
 each of which is a Latin verse taken from the 
 Scriptures. Between the lower gallery and the 
 choir ia an oblong room, remarkable for contain- 
 ing the portraits of the Portuguese monarchs and
 
 CAS*. PIA. 154 
 
 which for this reason is known by the name of 
 the " Casados Reis." The pictures have little to 
 recommend them in an artistic point of view, 
 but are interesting for having been severally 
 drawn from life. Observe the pale and delicate 
 but intelligent expression of the countenance of 
 Don Emmanuel; the stalwart John II. wield- 
 ing a ponderous weapon; the juvenile and ac- 
 tive figure of Don Sebastian, and the mixture 
 of tenderness and severity in the features of Pe- 
 ter the Just or the Cruel. A beautiful piazza 
 once ran the whole length of the building; but 
 through a spirit of petty economy its noble arches 
 have been filled up by whitewashed taverns and 
 irreg'ular tenements. 
 
 Of this convent a modern traveller thus writes: 
 "Its poetry is gone, and the impress of degrada- 
 tion is being daily stamped upon its romantic por- 
 ticos. I had hoped to meet in each cell a venera- 
 ble religious of St. Jerome; and the marble seats 
 certainly looked as if they had been made only 
 for the plaited habits of the old monks. But the 
 monastery of Belemis now transformed into an 
 asylum for orphans and foundlings. After the 
 expulsion of its legitimate possessors, who were 
 scattered abroad on the world without either 
 shelter or means of subsistence, this was perhaps
 
 155 BBLEM 
 
 the most] decent] purpose to which God's bouse- 
 rleprived of its ancient tenants could he applied, 
 and much] better than if it had been converted 
 into a manufactory or warehouse. 
 
 The establishment, Casa Pier, is at present 
 conducted with admirable order, and is under the 
 special protection of the empress ^ yet, this not- 
 withstanding, I am by no means an advocate of 
 the utilitarian system." The establishment is 
 for both sexes: the arrangements, cleanliness and 
 appearance of the children, who arc near a thou- 
 sand in number, reflect the highest credit on 
 the conductors of the charity. 
 
 The next object claiming attention is the con- 
 vent of Bom Successo, which stands on the side 
 of the road at a little distance to the west of the 
 Jeronyuiite convent. "We introduce it on account 
 of its being occupied by Irish ladies of the order 
 of St. Dominic. This building was founded in 
 the year 1626, and was bestowed on the Irish 
 Dominicanesses by queen Louisa de Gusman. 
 These nuns having been deprived of the greater 
 part of their income, have successfully directed 
 their tal?uts to the education of young ladies. 
 
 Ala short distance stands the tower of Be- 
 lem. known also as St. Vincent's castle. This 
 towr was projected by Don John II. for tho
 
 BELEM CASTLE. 156 
 
 purpose of forming a cross fire with the Torre 
 Velha built by Don John I. However it fell to 
 his successor Don Emmanuel to carry the design 
 into execution , which he accomplished in the 
 same style as his magnificent convent, and as 
 some authors say, to serve as a protection to it, 
 somewhere about the year 1521. 
 
 The tower was originally built on a rock in 
 the midst of the water, but it is now connected 
 with the shore by a broad tract of sand, which 
 time has deposited between it and the bank. This 
 edifice, so conspicuous for its venerable architec- 
 ture's now sadly disfigured by buildings of mo- 
 dern construction, the whitewashed walls of which 
 barbarously contrast with the time-beaten bat- 
 tlements of the old tower: nor have the repairs 
 of the fortress itself been made with sufficient 
 attention to the primitive architecture :, yet the 
 relievos and bastions, the watch towers with their 
 peculiar angular workmanship, the battlements 
 between them, the summit despite its unpoetic 
 modern telegraph, the lofty crenated terrace sup- 
 ported on buttresses of stone, the loopholes for 
 hurling down stones and missiles, the flowered 
 crosses of the order of Christ carved in the bat- 
 tlements, in a word, the very stones of which it 
 is constructed all afford a rich treat to the poet 
 x
 
 157 BELEM CASTLE. 
 
 or the antiquary, while, standing beneath this 
 interesting monument, he listens to the sound 
 of the waves which beat against its foundations, 
 or to the whistling of the wind as it sweeps over 
 its summit. One of the greatest curiosities of 
 Belem Castle is undoubtedly the royal saloon, 
 \vhich formerly bad a balcony looking towards 
 the sea, above which were the arms of Portugal 
 and the devices of Emmanuel the Great ,which 
 are still visible. This apartment is remark- 
 able for possessing an elliptical roof which is so 
 constructed as that two individuals placed in 
 opposite angles of the hall can speak with each 
 other, while persons remaining in the centre are 
 unable to hear the conversation. 
 
 On the platform are mounted six pieces of 
 cannon remarkable for their antiquity as well 
 as for their elaborate workmanship. Below there 
 are dungeons underground, the descent into which 
 is closed by iron gratings level with the pave- 
 ment. 
 
 Considered in a military point of view, this 
 fortress cannot offer any effectual resistance 
 against an attacking force. Indeed it was con- 
 siderably shattered by a single broadside from 
 an English frigate some fifty years ago , and so 
 far from contributing to the defence of r the river
 
 SA.NDFORT. 158 
 
 it would by resistance only draw upon itself in- 
 evitable destruction. Hence it is the wish of a 
 numerous and sensible class that it should cease 
 to be preserved as a military defence 1 and should 
 be employed like the tower of London as a depot 
 for the conservation of national trophies and cu- 
 riosities. Until a few years ago, an impost of 
 3. 800rs. was laid on every ship passing the tower 
 for the maintainance of the military stationed 
 therein. 
 
 Aware of the inefficiency of this castle as a 
 means of defence, the French constructed at a 
 short distance from it at the edge of the river a 
 strong fort, which was denominated Forte (Vdrea 
 or Sandfort. 
 
 Having thus conducted the stranger to what 
 may be considered the most westerly point of 
 the metropolis, we would advise him if the wind 
 or tide should prove favourable to return home 
 by water, and to relieve the tcdiousness of the 
 passage we will tell him a story. About the 
 year 1808-10 an extraordinary announcement 
 was made to the good people of Lisbon that a gen- 
 tleman of inventive genius had had the good 
 fortune to discover a method of walking on thu 
 water. The means which he was to employ 
 for this purpose were no other than a pair of huge
 
 159 HOMEM DAS BOTAS. 
 
 cork boots. "" The ' novel advertisement excited 
 universal attention, and the^interest it occasioned 
 was wound up to its highest pitch when it was 
 found that the inventor, so far from shrinking 
 from public scrutiny, intended to subject his 
 discovery to actual experiment in the presence 
 of all who should take the trouble to witness it, 
 and had actually fixed the time and place for its 
 realization. He pledged himself to the whole 
 population of Lisbon to walk from Belem quay 
 to the opposite side of the river. The day mention- 
 ed in this extraordinary announcement arrived, 
 and such was the eagerness to see the feat of this 
 \vonder-working-man-of-boot8, that the whole 
 city was literally emptied of its inhabitants. 
 Enormous sums were asked for vehicles or beasts 
 of burden, and from early dawn the busy boats 
 incessantly plied, freighted with passengers of 
 every description, from Lisbon to Belem. The 
 extraordinary influx of so many thousand per- 
 sons exhausted the ordinary supply of provisions 
 in that and the adjacent bairros. Midday came 
 and expectation was on tiptoe ; every eye was 
 directed to the river, but the occasion of all this 
 excitement appeared not. An hour passed away 
 and no one came. Another hour, and still he 
 tarried. Slowly and sadly passed the afternoon }
 
 HOMEM DAS BOTAS. 160 
 
 and not till the sun had set on the horizon could the 
 gaping crowds be induced to believe that they 
 had been hoaxed. Night now rapidly closed over 
 them, and gave them an opportunity of skulking 
 to the city without meeting the jeers and ridi- 
 cule of the few had staid at home. This lu- 
 dicrous occurrence is well remembered to this 
 day ^ and many still exist who were themselves 
 duped on the occasion. It has even given rise to a 
 proverb, and the good citizens of Lisbon are sure 
 to designate all attempts at a hoax as the se- 
 cond part of the Homem das botaa.
 
 161 SETE CAgAS. 
 
 Conceigao Velha. Sele Casas. Baths of ike Al- 
 
 .,, v fa arias. Chafariz d'El Rti, Cannon foundry. 
 
 Cacs do Tojo.r Execution of criminals. Ma- 
 
 ,\,dre de Deos.Chabregas.Crrttlas. Beato An- 
 
 , tonio. ATarrtV/a. 
 
 "Where I see the superiority of England, 
 (which by the bye we are a good deal mista- 
 ken about in many things,)! am pleased, and 
 where I find her inferior, I am at least en- 
 lightened." 
 
 Byron's letters* 
 
 Taking again the Terreiro do Pago for our 
 starting point, and proceeding to the eastward 
 along Rua Nova da Alfandega, we come to the 
 church of the Conceigao Velha, which is remark- 
 able for having been a Jewish synagogue down to 
 the time of king Emmanuel. That prince convert- 
 ed it into a Christian church, and embellished it 
 with a stone front in the same style as the church 
 of St. Jerome. The front is the only part of the 
 building that can interest the stranger, as the 
 interior possesses no architectural merit. This 
 church belongs to the knights of the military 
 order of Christ. 
 
 A little farther on, on the opposite side of the 
 itreet,aud at the termination of the general custom
 
 CHAFARIZ D'EL REI. 162 
 
 house stand the buildings called the Sete-Casas 
 and Ver-o-pezo, through which all such articles 
 as come under the denomination of provisions, as 
 wine, oil,- meat, fruit &c. must pass paying du- 
 ty before they can enter the city. There is a 
 large quay in front of the building. 
 
 Passing a number of stalls or shambles, in 
 which pork and Alemtojo cheese made of sheep's 
 milk are the chief commodities, we see on our left 
 a fountain, to which we descend from the road 
 and which flows through a number of parallel 
 apertures. . This fountain is called Chafariz d'El 
 ltd, and is remarkable for the abundance of the 
 water which it yields, the flow of which appears 
 never to decrease even in the driest summer. It 
 is not, like most of the other fountains in Lis- 
 bon, connected with the grand aqueduct, but is 
 supposed to draw its supplies from an enormous 
 natural rpservoir concealed in the hill that is 
 crowned by the castle of St. George. The wa- 
 ter is always of a higher temperature than that 
 of the aqueduct, and is said to be beneficial in 
 several disorders. 
 
 The next object that attracts the eye is the 
 Corn, market, Terrciro do Trigo. This is a large 
 building and contains spacious apartments for 
 various species of grain, besides offices for the
 
 163 FOUNDRY. 
 
 payment of duties, &c. During the hours of 
 business great numbers of mules are usually seen 
 waiting in the court that fronts the edifice. 
 These belong to the millers who come there for 
 corn from the numerous windmills that every 
 where top the heights in the neighbourhood of 
 the town. These mules are often excessively 
 vicious, and we would advise the stranger when 
 passing them to keep out of the reach of their 
 heels or mouths. However, they generally give 
 notice of hostile intentions by a sort of squeak, 
 which circumstance is alluded to in the follow- 
 ing proverb, which as it contains a reflexion on 
 learned ladies we will not translate : 
 
 Do Macho que diz Jm, 
 
 E da Mulher que sabe Latim, 
 
 Libera nos Domine. 
 
 Opposite the Corn Market are the thermal 
 baths known by the name of the Alcagarias. 
 They are much frequented by rheumatic pa- 
 tients. The letting of them produces a very 
 considerable income. Till lately they belonged 
 to the family of the duke of Cadaval, but they 
 have recently changed owners. 
 
 After passing two other fountains, and a small 
 fish-market, we reach at no great distance the 
 foundry, /umftgoo, and military arsenal.
 
 FOUNDRY. 164 
 
 This building is of an irregular construction., 
 but its facade to the west is not destitute of ele- 
 gance. It serves as a dep6t for pieces of artil- 
 lery and for upwards of sixty thousand stands of 
 arms. It contains several ancient and curious 
 guns, and other weapons, and also the famous 
 cannon which was taken at the seige of Diu by 
 Nuno da Cunha in 1539. This enormous gun 
 was originally deposited in the castle of St. Ju- 
 lian, where it remained till it was brought to 
 Lisbon in the reign of Joseph the first, for the 
 purpose of being melted down to form part of 
 the equestrian statue of that monarch. It is 
 said that an ambassador from Tunis, accidental- 
 ly reading the Arabic inscription on the breech, 
 represented the propriety of saving BO memora- 
 ble a trophy from the furnace ; and the piece 
 was accordingly deposited in its present situa- 
 tion. It is twenty eight palms long, upwards 
 of twenty feet English measure, and discharges 
 a ball of ninety three pounds weight. The fol- 
 lowing is a translation of the inscription: 
 "From our sovereign Mahey, king of the kings 
 of the age, son of the noble Lady Rahan, 
 Defender of the Mahommetan law, Conqueror 
 of the Taneos, Exterminator and vanquisher 
 of the Ebaditas, (on the day of the memorable
 
 165 FOUNDRY. 
 
 battle with king Salib) Heir to king Suliman, 
 Confider in God, Father of his country and 
 of the sciences, King of Madarchah. This 
 cannon was cast on the fifth day of the mouth 
 of Til-Kade, in the year 939 of the Hegira," 
 This date corresponds with the 16th. of Ja- 
 nuary. 
 
 Perhaps the most attractive object in the mi- 
 litary arsenal are the paintings on the ceilings, 
 which are the work of Pedro Alxandrino, Cyril- 
 lo, Bruno, and Berardo. Here also is kept the 
 original model of the equestrian statue erected in 
 the Terreiro do Pago, as it was moulded in wax 
 by the hands of Machado de Castro. 
 
 A part of the edifice is applied to the casting 
 and boring of cannon &c., and another pottion 
 of the establishment is employed as a school for 
 bixty poor boys, who are denominated Appren- 
 tices of the arsenal, dpprendizes do Arsenal, un- 
 der the direction of the inspector of the establish- 
 ment. 
 
 A little further on we come to the barracks, 
 a large and commodious range of buildings, front- 
 ed by a spacious court. Passing these we arrive 
 at the Caes do Tojo, literally Furze-quay, in 
 which are usually piled large quantities of brush- 
 wood for fuel. Thisspot is the Tyburn of Lisbon,
 
 MATTOI LOOO. 166 
 
 and has witnessed the closing scene of the lives 
 of many atrocious criminals. When an execu- 
 tion is to take place, part of the brushwood is 
 removed and a temporary gallows is erected. 
 The following account of a Portuguese execution, 
 was forwarded by the writer of these pages to 
 one of the London public journals in the year 
 1842. The criminal was a young man of res- 
 pectability of the name of Francisco de Mattos 
 Lobo. u The circumstances of the case were briefly 
 these: under the plea of the death of an old 
 servant of his own abode,, he had obtained the 
 consent of his aunt, a widow lady, to pass a few 
 nights in her house. The family consisted of 
 four individuals the lady herself, a daughter 
 about thirteen, a son of eleven years of age, and 
 a maid-servant. The monster chose for the ex- 
 ecution of his purpose the moment when the fa- 
 mily was retiring to rest, and treacherously as- 
 sassinated them all. The daughter after receiv- 
 ing several stabs, feigned herself dead, and this 
 fortunate circumstance led to a discovery. After 
 he had quilted the place, her groans drew the 
 attention of an English family resident in a 
 neighbouring house, and they communicated 
 their suspicions to the police, who were soon on 
 the spot. The young lady retained sufficient
 
 167 MATTOS LOBO. 
 
 strength to declare the name and abode of her 
 murderer. He was immediately apprehended, 
 and, being brought into the presence of his vic- 
 tim, was identified by her before she expired. 
 In prison he twice attempted self-destruction, 
 but was as often prevented:, and on Saturday 
 last he gave up, by the hands of the executioner, 
 that life which he had in vain sought to take 
 away by his own." 
 
 "Now there is something so peculiarly im- 
 pressive in the manner of conducting a pnblic 
 execution in this country, and this has been at- 
 tended by a circumstance so tragical and strik- 
 ing, that I cannot refrain from giving you an 
 account of it. Among the unfortunate victims, 
 who, on the expulsion of Don Miguel, were de- 
 nounced and imprisoned, was a venerable eccle- 
 siastic, whose only crime had been an undaunted 
 Real in the cause of religion. During the seven 
 years that he was under confinement, this truly 
 apostolic man incessantly laboured in instruct- 
 ing and converting his fellow- prisoners. His 
 exertions were blessed with abundant fruits \ and 
 such was his zeal for the unhappy prisoners, 
 that, when at length he received his own libe- 
 ration, he still continued in the same career of 
 charity, and for this purpose obtained permission.
 
 MATTOS LOBO. lf)8 
 
 to continue to reside within the gaol. Hence- 
 forward, besides attending to the spiritual wants 
 of 500 inmates of the prison, he extended his 
 labours through the whole city and its environs. 
 In the pulpit, in the confessional, in private ex- 
 hortation, in public instruction, his exertions and 
 success were truly astonishing. But amid his 
 many labours he never forgot his dear prisoners \ 
 and, among them all, Mattos Lobo, the preemi- 
 nently guilty assassin, was the object that in a 
 peculiar manner elicited his charity and zeal. 
 Long before the sentence of death was pronounced 
 and ratified, he had won the heart of this trai- 
 tor ruffian, not only to himself but to religion 
 and to God. I shall never forget the sensations 
 I experienced when on Monday in Holy Week, 
 I boheld this ferocious monster subdued to looks 
 of humility and contrition, kneeling in silent 
 prayer before the altar of God, assisting as aco- 
 lyte at the holy sacrifice, and receiving within 
 his lips tho flesh of the Immaculate Lamb. As 
 soon as his saintly director had finished bis 
 thanksgiviug he arose, locked the murderer to his 
 bosom, and burst into a flood of tears." 
 
 " On Thursday last the gaoler called for Mattos 
 
 Lobo, and reading to him the sentence of death, 
 
 that had received its final ratification, bade him 
 
 z 2
 
 169 MATTOS LOBO. 
 
 prepare for his doom. Though prepared for the 
 intelligence, his subdued soul was overpowered 
 at its announcement, and he swooned away. From 
 the time that the sentence of death is notified 
 to a criminal he is allowed three days to prepare 
 for eternity. During this interval he is placed 
 under the care of the Confraternity of Mercy, 
 who bind themselves to provide with pious assi- 
 duity for all his wants, both spiritual and tem- 
 poral. The presiding brother, who is usually a 
 nobleman, is obliged in virtue of his office to 
 make every exertion with the Sovereign to ob- 
 tain a pardon. Charity no longer regards him 
 in the light of a criminal : he is spoken of in no 
 other terms than as the padecente or sufferer. 
 Night and day he is attended by one or more 
 priests, who may occasionally suggest acts of 
 compunction, or whisper in his ear words of mer- 
 cy and consolation. In the apartment in which 
 he spends these three days a temporary altar is 
 erected \ and on the day previous to his death 
 lie is admitted, if in proper dispositions, to the 
 holy communion. When the fatal hour arrives 
 for him to walk to the place of execution, he is 
 clothed by the brothers in a white dress that 
 reaches to his feet j the cord is put round his neck, 
 and a crucifix placed in his hands. Thus arrayed
 
 MATTOS LOBO. 
 
 he proceeds barefooted from the prison gate, ac- 
 companied by the brothers, attended by a priest 
 on either side, and preceded by a crucifix and a 
 banner, on which is painted a beautiful repre- 
 sentation of the Holy Virgin, supporting on her 
 lap the body of her bleeding Son. The slow 
 tinklings of a handbell announce the advanc- 
 ing procession, while as it passes along, various 
 brothers are busily engaged in soliciting alms to 
 be applied for the benefit of the " sufferer's " 
 soul. When the procession arrives at the square 
 in front of the church of St. Mary Magdalene , 
 a public address is made from the steps of the 
 church, after which the lugubrious train again 
 advances towards the place of execution. All 
 these particulars were observed in the case of 
 Mattos Lobo ^ and in addition to them he was, 
 in compliance with the judicial sentence, con- 
 ducted round the house which had been the scene 
 of his barbarity. The condemned prisoner in 
 this country usually rvaUcs to the place of exe- 
 cution 1 , but the one we are now speaking of was 
 too weak for this, and he was carried all the 
 way in a chair. His demeanour throughout was 
 composed and edifying, and such as might ha\o 
 been expected from the counsels of his saintly 
 director. He made the fullest acknowlegment
 
 171 MATTOS LOBO. 
 
 of his guilt, and at his own request the confes- 
 sion which he had caused to be drawn up, and 
 which he had signed the day before, was read 
 publicly in his presence from one of the windows 
 of the house in which he had perpetrated the 
 crime. It was with difficulty that his friend 
 and director, the good priest who had so long 
 and so well prepared him to meet the awful 
 moment, could he prevented from accompanying 
 his spiritual child all the way from the prison. 
 A serious indisposition, contracted by his great 
 exertions during the last few days, rendered such 
 a proceeding perilous in the extreme, and he 
 yielded to the remonstrances of his friends. No- 
 thing, however, could prevent him from going 
 in a chaise to the place of execution ; whereaf- 
 ter making with the condemned man the most 
 fervent and moving acts of resignation and con- 
 trition, he imparted to him a last blessing it 
 was his List! The criminal ascended the ladder:; 
 the holy man remained at its foot, and while 
 from below he was with the deepest emotion 
 addressing the unfortunate culprit, he fell back 
 and instantly expired. The next moment the 
 criminal was turned off the ladder, and the souls 
 of priest and penitent were at the same instant 
 ushered into the presence of God."
 
 MADRE DE DEOS. 172 
 
 " Time will not allow me to make here all 
 the reflections which this most tragical event 
 suggests. It displays in strong colours the won- 
 derful influence which religion is capable of ex- 
 ercising in softening the heart, since it subdued 
 and converted that of the ruthless and ensan- 
 guined Mattos Lobo. It shows how far charity 
 can inflame the breast of the true priest-, since 
 in its exercise towards one of the basest and most 
 wicked of men, it broke the bonds that united 
 the body and soul of the venerable John Estacio, 
 and transported him from this vale of tears to' 
 the bosom of his God." 
 
 At some distance from the" CaesdoTojoisthe 
 eastern gate or barrier of the city. Passing 
 through this, and following the high road for 
 about a quarter of a mile, we come to the Fran- 
 ciscan nunnery of Madre de Deos. This con- 
 vent was founded in the year 1509 by Donna 
 Leonore, queen of Don John II., and is the rest- 
 ing place of her remains. Notwithstanding the 
 injury which this building sustained in the earth- 
 quake of 1755 and its subsequent reparation by 
 Joseph I., it still bears the impress of antiquity. 
 Its principal attraction consists in several valu- 
 able paintings by Portuguese and foreign artists 
 of eminence, such as Grao Vasco,Bento Coelho, 
 
 A A
 
 173 CHABREG1S. 
 
 Andre Gousalves, Christovam de Utrecht. The 
 best are in the sacristy. 
 
 In coutignity with this convent stands the im- 
 mense Palacio of the Marquis of JSiza, the old 
 and spacious saloons of which a re at present filled 
 with spinning machinery. 
 
 A little further on is the convent of Chabre- 
 gas. This edifice belonged to the Franciscans, 
 and usually contained upwards of one hundred 
 friars. It pose&esed a handsome church, and [in 
 a side chapel a representation of Calvary beau- 
 tifully executed with figures as large as life. At 
 the suppression of religious houses, the building 
 aud grounds were sold and converted into a ma- 
 nufactory of cotton and woollen goods. Some- 
 time after, one half of it was destroyed by fire. 
 It has since been purchased by the monopolist 
 contractors of the soap and tobacco trade, who 
 have erected in it expensive steam machinery, 
 the work of Maudslay & Co. of London. 
 
 Though the poor people in the neighbourhood 
 have never read Spelman's history of Sacrilege, 
 we understand that there is a general persuasion 
 among them that loss and disaster will inevita- 
 bly be the portion of all those who may become 
 the proprietors and desecrators of this house of 
 God. Indeedjit is a lamentable change to a Ira-
 
 GRILtAS. 174 
 
 veller who may have passed this way some thirty 
 years ago, instead of the deep-toned organ, and 
 the melodious psalmody of the religious elevating 
 hi* soul to hnaven, to hear the monotonous clack 
 of wheels and the hissing of steam. Nor will 
 his disgust be lessened when, if he chance to enter 
 the once hallowed sanctuary, he sees its beauty 
 defaced, its ornaments scattered, and the noblu 
 steps that once led to its altar trodden by the 
 greasy operative who is tending the soap boi- 
 ler. 
 
 Leaving Chabregas, and the Villa and delight- 
 ful quinta of the duke of Lafoes, we arrive at the 
 poor convent of the Grillas, which is distinguish- 
 ed for little else than the severity, of itsdisciplinc. 
 As an instance of this, it uiay be mentioned that a 
 nun of this house, the moment she has made her 
 profession, is cut off for ever from all communica- 
 tion with the world. None but the abbess is al- 
 lowed to speak with strangers at the grate :, anJ 
 when news is brought of the death of a relation 
 of any one of the inmates, she is informed of it 
 
 "}" It is a remarkable fact that tha alienated 
 property of the Church in Portugal imtead of 
 being productive to the purchasers, has in very 
 many instances become wofully deteriorated, 
 and has entailed ruin on iti lay possessors.
 
 175 MARVILLA. 
 
 only by the general announcement to the com- 
 munity, that a relative of one of their number 
 is deceased. 
 
 From this point for several miles eastward 
 there is no means of landing from the river at 
 low water, a deep and broad bed of mud lying 
 along the whole bank as far as Sacavem. When 
 we consider that we arc not above a mile from 
 the capital of the kingdom this fact is not very 
 creditable to those who for a trifling expense 
 might have rendered, available, here as well as 
 in other places, to the community the advantages 
 which this noble river offers. 
 
 Passing the village of Beato Antonio, where 
 may be seen a house formerly occupied by the 
 regular canons of St. John the Evangelist, but 
 now converted into a steam mill, and following 
 the road which runs along the edge of the river, 
 we come to Pogo do Bispo ( Bishop" 1 s well J where 
 the way takes a turn and conducts to the con- 
 vent of Marvilla. This large and splendid found- 
 ation contains at present but few inmates, who 
 are nuns of the order of St. Bridget. 
 
 As our walk in this direction here terminates, 
 the stranger may repose himself in the court yard 
 of the convent , and if ha fed disposed, may
 
 CHURCH OF THE MAQDALENA. 17G 
 
 purchase at the wheel cheesecake pasties (pas- 
 teis), for the making of which the good ladies 
 inside have been famous from time immemorial. 
 
 Church of St. Mary Magdalen. Roman anti- 
 quities. St. Anthony. Cathedral. Prison of 
 the Aljube. Limoeiro.St. George'* Castle. 
 St. Vincent. The Gra$a.-^N. Senhora do Mon- 
 te, Penha de Franca. 
 
 Terre des oranges ! beau fieuve ! et toi, Lisbonne, 
 Qu'il presse avec amour de ses dots azures ; 
 De ses bords enchantes gracieuse couronne! 
 Collines ! sombres tours! temples! palais dores! 
 Frais jardins ! oliviers au vert meluncholique 1 
 Port superbe et cou vert de vaisseaux orgueilleur '. 
 Ah ! qui n'admirerait votrc aspect fantastique 
 ^iu'eclaire de la nuit 1'astre mysterieux. 
 
 Itord du Tage. 
 
 Commencing our ramble once more from tha 
 Praga do Commercio, and passing up the Rua da 
 l y rala. the most easterly of the principal streets 
 which terminate in the square, and taking the 
 third turn to the right, we shall come to the 
 parish church of St. Mary Magdalen. Thia 
 A A 2
 
 177 EOMA.N INSCRIPTION* 
 
 edifice may be taken as a fair sample of the 
 style of building which prevails in the churches 
 of Lisbon. Sanctuary elevated one or two steps 
 and forming a distinct chapel placed at one end 
 ofthe main building, though not separated from 
 the nave except by alow railing of wood or iron ; 
 side altars jutting out from the walls, or in 
 recesses so shallow as not to merit the name of 
 chapels }f singing choir at a great elevation 
 over the principal entrance, a species of porch, 
 made of Brazil wood tastefully carved, called 
 Guarda Pento inside the principal door of the 
 building. Perhaps the uniformity observed in the 
 modern Portuguese churches arises from the fact 
 of their having been built about the same period, 
 viz. shortly after the great earthquake of 1T55. 
 The church of the Magdalena was built in 1783. 
 In a narrow street running parallel with the 
 front of the Magdalena may be seen, on the left 
 hand sideasyou ascend, four Roman inscriptions 
 which were found in the neighbourhood about 
 the end of the last century. The stones contain- 
 ing them were placed in the wall of a house 
 which forms part of the street. The inscriptions 
 
 |The altar of the B. Sacrament is usually an 
 exception to this custom.
 
 CATHEDRAL. 178 
 
 are in good preservation and nlay be easily road. 
 The largest runs as follows : 
 
 L. Cascilio. L. F. Celeri. Recto. 
 
 Q-usest. Provinc. Beet. 
 otM. Trib. Pleb. Praetori. 
 '?vflii eii Fel. Jul. Olisipo. 
 
 Following the macadamized ascent which pas- 
 ses immediately under the windows of the Mag- 
 dalcna, we come to a neat little chapel of stone 
 on the left, dedicated in honour of St. Anthony, 
 This saint, it is well known, was a native of 
 Lisbon. The building before us stands on the 
 very spot on which he was born. It is on that 
 account much frequented, and it differs in its 
 structure from the generality of Lisbon churches 
 in being surmounted by a dome. It contains a 
 full-length portrait of the saint tolerably well 
 executed, and which is so placed as to be reached 
 from a step erected below. The veneration of 
 the people for their favourite patron is evinced 
 by their devoutly kissing the feet of his portrait 
 as they pass, 
 
 "We next come to the Cathedral or "Old Sec. 1 ' 
 It has been falsely asserted that this edifice was 
 originally a Moorish mosque. , but Padre Castro 
 has triumphantly proved that it was built from 
 the foundations by the first king of Portugal^
 
 170 CATHEDRAL. 
 
 Don Alphonso Henriquez. From the fact of 
 its having been thrice severely damaged, ence 
 by lightning and twice by earthquakes, it 
 presents a mutilated appearance. The original 
 structure was in the mixed Gothic and Moorish 
 style of architecture. Its frequent repairs have 
 been formed after the prevailing taste of the pe- 
 riod in which they were made, and it would 
 be difficult to classify them under any general 
 term, nor would any attempt to dosobe facili- 
 tated by the patches of whitewashed walls re- 
 lieved by pillars surmounted by gilded capitals. 
 The appearance it presents on entering is heavy 
 and sombre. The sanctuary is surrounded by a 
 corridor lined by a number of chapels, the most 
 interesting of which is that containing the 
 grotto of the Nativity, the work of Machado 
 de Castro.' The present sanctuary was built by 
 Alphotifcus IV. whose remains as well as thosa of 
 his queen are deposited in it. The monument is 
 an interesting and curious specimen. Little, how- 
 ever, as the cathedral of Lisbon has to recom- 
 mend it in an architectural point of view, still the 
 historical recollections with which it is connected 
 render it an object replete with interest. It was 
 here Ihut bishop Gilbert, our countryman, offici- 
 ated in the capacity of fmt bishop of Lisbon.
 
 CATHEDRAL. 180 
 
 It w* from its turrets that one of his successors 
 wa* precipitated in 1384. Here too was deposited 
 the body of the martyr St. Vincent when brought 
 from the promontory which bears bis name. 
 
 The mention of this circumstance reminds us 
 of the ravens, that are usually kept in a recess 
 at the back of the church. Now, as these birds 
 have been been a subject of much wonderment 
 to English travellers , and an occasion of several 
 ingenious and original stories,"} 1 it may be well 
 to give the real and authentic version of tbeic 
 history. 
 
 j" As samples of the ingenuity and inventive 
 powers of the tourists above alluded to, take the 
 following : 
 
 " Some three or may be four hundred years 
 ago, a party of holy individuals sailed for Lis- 
 bon, having under their charge some particular 
 sacred relics. Fortune however did not favour 
 them } and the vessel was driven about at sea 
 for so long a time that every soul on board pe- 
 rished ! Two crows then made their appearance, 
 and very handsomely towed the vessel into Lis- 
 bon by their united exertions!" 
 
 William While Cooper M. R. C. S. 
 burgeon to the Hon, Artillery Company. 
 
 " . . . . The dead body of St. Vincent, was 
 
 conveyed to Lisbon and according to tradition 
 
 was followed by some crows who had witnessed 
 
 his dying agonies , they remained by it till its 
 
 B B
 
 131 CATHEDRA.?,. 
 
 In the beginning of the fourth century, one 
 of the most illustrious victims of the persecution 
 of Dioclesian was the martyr St. Vincent. After 
 he had undergone the most frightful torments, 
 bis lifeless body was exposed by order of the 
 prefect Dacian outside the walls of Valentia } but 
 a miraculous interposition of heaven guarded the 
 remains of the martyr by the agency of a raven, 
 which defended them from the attacks of wild 
 beasts and birds of prey. The fact is attested 
 by St. Augustine and other contemporary wri- 
 ters. Under the dominion of the Moors in Spain, 
 the Christians of the province of Valentia were 
 exposed to a violent persecution under king Ab- 
 deramen and to escape the cruelty of the Sara- 
 cen they retired to a distant promontory in the 
 kingdom of Algarve, and carried with them the 
 cherished remains of St. Vincent. After the famous 
 battle of Ourique, and the consequent expulsion 
 of the Moors from Portugal, Alphonso Henriques 
 in the year 1139 caused these relics to be con* 
 veyed by sea to Lisbon. In that age of faith 
 the translation of the body was considered an 
 
 interment, aud then returning sought out his 
 murderers, and inspired by holy revenge tore 
 out their eyes." 
 
 Summer in Andalucia,
 
 L1MOEIUO. 18'2 
 
 event full of interest, worthy of lasting remem- 
 brance, and likely to bring down on the city a- 
 bundant blessings from the God of martyrs. St. 
 Vincent was, therefore, chosen as the patron of the 
 metropolis. A legend says that a couple of ravens 
 accompanied the vessel in its voyage , and to 
 commemorate the arrival of the relics, and the 
 connection of this bird with the martyr's history, 
 a ship and two ravens were adopted as the arms 
 of the city, and a couple of the same birds were 
 ordered to be kept at the Cathedral. And now 
 begging the reader's pardon for this digression, 
 and for the defence of Ralph frem the imputa- 
 tion of superstition, which his visitors seem so 
 eager to fasten upon him, we will take our leave 
 of the ravens and the Cathedral, and proceeding 
 along the street that passes under the North win- 
 dows pay a visit to the prisons of the Aljubc 
 and Limociro. 
 
 The former of these prisons was originally des- 
 tined for the detention of those criminals who 
 were entitled to clerical privileges and immuni- 
 ties . It is new occupied by culprits who have been 
 condemned to expiate their offences by labouring 
 for various periods in works of public utility. 
 The Limoeiro is a large, irregular, yellow build-
 
 183 LIMOEIRO. 
 
 ing capable of containing some thousands of pri- 
 soners, and seldom has less than seven hundred. 
 It is a curious fact that this prison was previ- 
 ously to its application to its present purpose, 
 a royal palace, and a favourite residence of the 
 Portuguese monarchs. 
 
 The prison discipline, though under severe 
 regulations, is not calculated to improve the 
 morality of the inmates. The Lisbon thieves, 
 like those of London, have signs and a language 
 peculiar to the confraternity, by means of which 
 they are able to keep up without detection a 
 correspondence with their brethren without ,and 
 instances have occurred where by making early 
 application, and a competent reward to the in- 
 careerated members of the profession, the stolen 
 property has been restored to the owners. This 
 place is the permanent residence of the public 
 executioners, who are always criminals that have 
 been reprieved from the gallows, on condition of 
 rendering to their confreres when required, the 
 service once due to themselves. Their profes- 
 sional skill is exhibited by clinging to the rope 
 as the crimiual is being swung off the ladder and 
 hastening the term of the sufferer's agonies by sit- 
 ting upon his shoulders. The ferocity of some 
 of thv prisoners sometimes shows itself in deadly
 
 CASTL1CF ST. filOROl. 184 
 
 contests with each other, and on these occasions, 
 as it would be dangerous for the turnkeys to in- 
 terfere, recourse is had to the expedient of empty- 
 ing from above, baskets of slaked lime on the 
 heads of the combatants. A short time ago the 
 prison doors were forcibly opened by a party 
 from without, who surprised the guard. The 
 attempt was made for the purpose of freeing the 
 political prisoners, most of whom effected their 
 escape. On that occasion numbers of thefeloui 
 made their way into the neighbouring streets, 
 where many of them were cut down and bayo- 
 notted by the soldiers, while attempting, as WAt 
 Very natural, to make good their escape. 
 
 Leaving the Limoeiro and taking the ascent 
 to the left, we reach the castle of St. George,' 
 a title which is said to be of English origin, and 
 dating either from the marriage of Don John I. 
 with Philippa of Lancaster, or from the aid ren- 
 dered by the English under the duke of Cam- 
 bridge to Ferdinand I. The Castle stands pa 
 the summit of the hill, which is very steep on 
 the north and west sides, hut lets so to the south 
 and east. This hill, with the two contiguous 
 bairros which skirt its base on theeastand west, 
 formed the ancient city, which was gradually 
 extended over the adjacent valley tud the opposite 
 B 4
 
 185 
 
 CASTLE OF ST. GEORGE. 
 
 hill, where traces of the wall are still visible 
 near the church of St. Roque. The inclosure of 
 the castle comprised within the hall and fortified 
 turrets, denominated from tradition the towers 
 of Ulysses, form an independent parish. It com- 
 prises dwelling houses, military prisons, and sol- 
 diers quarters. The principal entrance is on the 
 south west sideband is denominated St. George ' 
 gate. It has a btatue of the patron saint in a 
 'niche on the left hand side. On the north is 
 another gateway through which the valiant Don 
 Martin Moniz formed a passage in the famous 
 iege, when the city was taken from the Moors. 
 The prowess of this warrior, who perished on 
 the occasion, was rewarded by Alphonsa Hen- 
 liqucs who ordered his bust to be erected in 
 marble over the gate. Underneath, is the fol- 
 lowing inscription : "El Rei Do Afonso IJen- 
 riques mandou aqni colocar esta estatua ecabea 
 tie pedra em memoria da gloriosa niorte que Do 
 Marti Monis progenitor da famiiia dos Vascon- 
 celos recebeu nesta porta quandoatravessando-se 
 mella franqueou aos seus a entrada com que la 
 ganhou aos Mouros esta cidade no anno 1147." 
 "Joan Rois de Vasconcelos e Sousa Conde de 
 Castel Melhor seu decimoquarto neto por Laro- 
 nifeiBC[ui por eita i
 
 CASTLK OF 6T. GEORGE: 186 
 
 "The king, Dom Alphonso Henrique* com- 
 manded this statue and head of stone to be placed 
 here in memory of the glorious death which Don 
 Martin Moniz, progenitor of the family of the 
 Vasconceios, met at this gate, when, throwing 
 himself across it, he opened for his men an en- 
 trance, by means of which this city vras taken 
 from the Moors in the year 1147." 
 
 "John Roderic de Vasconceios eSousa, Count 
 of Castel Melhor, the fourteenth heir of his ba- 
 ronetcy caused this inscription to be placed here 
 in the year 1646." 
 
 A little below this gate there was formerly 
 a village known by the denomination of Villa 
 Quente, \\bic\\ was totally swallowed up by au 
 earthquake vrbich happened on the 26th. of Ja- 
 nuary 1531. 
 
 From a turret, to the right of the entrance of 
 Don Martin Moniz is presented a magnificent 
 view of all the northeast parts of the town. The 
 platform on which are planted about a dozen 
 brass cine pounders, offers an equally extensive 
 view to the south west. As a military point of 
 defence the castle of St. George is absolutely 
 worthless, though in the hands of an enemy it 
 might inflict serious injury on th underjacent 
 part* of the city. Iti battery it principally
 
 187 CHURCH OF ST. VIKCEXT. 
 
 serviceable for salutes on gala-days, and has the 
 privilege of commencing the firing. 
 
 At some distance from the castle in an easter- 
 ly direction stands the church and magnificent 
 convent of St. Vincent. The site of this temple 
 ii remarkable for being the spot where the foun- 
 der of the Portuguese monarchy Don Alphonso 
 Henriques encamped his army when he laid siege 
 to the town -his foreign auxiliaries being posted 
 on the declivity of the hill on the south west. 
 Tradition says, that the first erection was nothing 
 more than a temporary hospital with a chapel 
 and cerhetry for those who might be wounded 
 orkilled iu the siege. When the monarch, who 
 was as religious as he was brave, caused the bo- 
 dy of St. Vincent tube transferred to Lisbon, be 
 determined to erft-t a temple that might be a 
 worthy receptacle of the martyr's remains. He 
 himself laid the first stone, and lived to see the 
 work completed. After the lapse of more than 
 four hundred year* Philip II. of Spain recon- 
 structed the edifice on a more magnificent plan. 
 This is the present building, The facade of the 
 church which is of polished stone, has an impo- 
 sing appearance, and is ornamented with niches 
 and well executed statues of St. Vincent St. Se- 
 bastian, St. Anthony &c. The last mentioned
 
 CHURCH OF ST. VINCENT. 188 
 
 saint marie bis first religious profession in tbif 
 house. The interior of the church is cruciform} 
 the high altar stands in the middle of the sanc- 
 tuary, and over it is erected a magnificent bal- 
 dachin ornamented with figures of seraphim, the 
 work of the celebrated sculptor Machado. On 
 the left side of the transept is the tomb of the 
 famous progenitor of the reigning honseof Bra- 
 ganza, Don Nuno Alvares Pereira, Lord high 
 constable of the kingdom. His monument, by 
 order of hor present majesty, was transferred to 
 this place from the suppressed convent of the 
 Carmelites which he had founded, and in which 
 his body had lain unmolested from the time of 
 his death. It consists of a mausoleum of fine 
 marble with basso relievos, and with the figure 
 of the hero lying upon it dressed in the Carmelite 
 habit. Near him is a representation of a shield- 
 bearer in armour, as if standing sentry over his 
 remains. 
 
 Perhaps the most attractive object to a stran- 
 ger, though certainly not the most magnificent, 
 at St. Vincent's is the resting place of the re- 
 mains of the sovereigns of Portugal. Crowded 
 in a dark and narrow chamber, "where nought 
 but silence reigns," are the coffins of all the de- 
 ceased monarchs of the house of Braganza^ with 
 c c
 
 139 CRA$i. 
 
 the exception of that of Alphonso VI. and Queen 
 Mary I. To each coffin is attacJied a silver plate, 
 on which is inscribed the date of the birth and 
 death of its mouldering occupant, a sad and sig- 
 nificant epilogue to all the grandiose titles in 
 which they gloried when living. 
 
 The large and noble convent attached to the 
 church, which until the suppression was held 
 by the regular canons of St. Augustine, is now 
 the residence of tbe Cardinal Patriarch. It con- 
 tains the Ecclesiastical archives, and the office 
 where business connected with the church it 
 transacted. A splendid view of the river and the 
 south side bank is presented from the windows. 
 The ring of bells in the church turrets is proba- 
 bly the best in the capital. 
 
 The next object worthy of attention in this 
 quarter of the city is the church and convent of 
 the Gra$a. It stands on an elevation to the 
 north west of St. Vincent's. The convent is spa- 
 cious, and commands a fine view of the city and 
 river. It was formerly inhabited by the her- 
 mits of St. Augustine : but its cloistered sanctu- 
 ary is desecrated and turned into barracks for 
 soldiers. The church is preserved j which though 
 it possesses few peculiarities in an architectural 
 point of rievr,yet contains some good painting*
 
 JENHORA. DO MONTE. 190 
 
 from the fertile pencil of Pedro Alexandrine. 
 In the sacristy is a superb mausoleum of one 
 Memlo Foyos, secretary of state of Don Pedro 1 1. 
 and in the sanctuary is een another monument 
 containing the ashes of the Counts of Ericeyra. 
 This' church is much frequented on Fridays by 
 persons who select that day for commemorating 
 the Passion of Christy as a very beautiful image 
 of our Saviour carrying the Cross is here to aid 
 and stimulate their devotion. Here also is kept 
 a rich and curious receptacle for the Most Holy 
 Sacrament, which was a present from the king 
 of Ormus to the Archbishop of Goa. 
 
 The mxt height on the same line of hill* is 
 in like manner crowned by a religious edifice, 
 which is a chapel known by the name of Notut 
 Senhora do M^nte. Like the Graga it presents 
 a noble view of the city and surrounding coun- 
 try } but if the traveller wishes to enjoy a real- 
 ly magnificent prospect, if his soul hangs with 
 delight on rich and diversified scenery of Lilli 
 and vallirs, of city and country, of laud and wa- 
 ter, of fertile gardens and uncultivated woodlands, 
 Irt him hasten to the last height that terminates 
 the ridge, and soat himself on the summit of the 
 Penha dc Franga. After enjoying the view, 
 he may if he think* proper, enter the fait dt-
 
 101 PENHA DE FRANCA. 
 
 caving convent. Deprived of its rightful posses- 
 iors, it presents little that can attract his at- 
 tention, much to excite his regret. The church, 
 which con tains some paintings by BentoCoelho, 
 is still occasionally opened. It is a place of much 
 devotion to the Portuguese mariners, who not 
 unfrequently go thither in proeessson to testify 
 their gratitude for the succour they believe them- 
 selves to have received, when in imminent risk, 
 through the intercession of Christ's blessed Mo- 
 ther. On these occasions they carry part of 
 the sails or masts of their vessel to the church 
 which is dedicated to our Lady, and there redeem 
 them for wax candles to be burnt before her 
 shrine, or other appropriate emblems of their 
 respect and gratitude. As we are on this sub- 
 ject we might as well refer here to a custom 
 which will no doubt attract the stranger's atten- 
 tion, and provoke his curiosity, we mean the 
 practice of suspending in the church small wax- 
 en figures or pictures. These are intended to 
 r>rve as public acknowledgements of cures be- 
 lieved to have been wrought by Almighty God 
 through the intercession of his glorified servants. 
 Nor can the practice be deemed at all supertti- 
 tious by those who believe iu the interference 
 of Providence in the affuirs of this world, or that
 
 FIGUXIRl. 
 
 the prayer of the just man availeth much, or that 
 gratitude is a duty inculcated by Religion. 
 
 Praga da Figueira. Pro$a de Don Pedro. 
 Theaire of Donna Maria [I. St. Dominie's. 
 Hospital of St. Joseph. Public Walks. Asylo da 
 Mendicidade. Military School. JFVt'ra da La- 
 dra. Pra$a dos Touros. JBemposta. Arroios. 
 Cemetery of St. John. 
 
 l 'By us transport?*], now securely stray 
 \Vhere winding alleys lead the doubtful way ; 
 The silent court ;incl opening square explore, 
 And long perplexing lanes untrod before." 
 
 Gay. 
 
 The Rua da Prata, which is the most east-. 
 erly of the principal streets that have their ter- 
 mination at the north sideofthePraga do Com- 
 mercio conducts to the Pra$a da Figueira. This 
 i the Covent-Garden of Lisbon. It consist* of 
 a square surrounded by regularly built sheds, ia 
 vrhich fish, flesh, fowl and fruit, are exposed 
 for sale. The vegetable market is in the middle 
 of the square } it commences at sun-rise, and clo- 
 es an hour after mid-day. If the traveller should 
 c c 2
 
 PRACA DE DON PEDRO. 
 
 happen to be in Lisbon in the month of June; 
 he will do well to visit this square during the 
 night that precedes the festival of St. John the 
 Baptist. On this occasion the people from the 
 country vie with each other in displaying their 
 rustic finery, and bringing forward the choicest 
 produce of the season, which they ornament with 
 bu nches of flowers, &c. The stalls thus decorated 
 are illuminated by many lamps, and as the wea- 
 ther at this season is usually fine, great crowds 
 assemble to witness or take part in the fun and 
 frolic which cease only at the appearance of 
 the morning. 
 
 A little to the west of the Praca da Figueira 
 lies the Pra$a de Don Pedro, formerly called 
 the Ratio. Next to the Black horse square this 
 is the largest and handsomest Praca in Lisbon. 
 It forms a paralellogram and is surrounded by 
 a wide street and parapet. Its northern ex- 
 tremity is occupied by the new National theatre 
 called after her present Majesty Theatro de Don 
 Ma Maria Segunda. This edifice is built on the 
 site where formerly stood the palace and prison 
 f the Inquisition. It was completed and opened 
 in 1845. Its external appearance is elegant and 
 imposing, and its interior arrangements and 
 decoration! equal if they do not surpass those
 
 CHURCH OF St. DOMINIC. 194 
 
 of any structure of the kind in the world. Yet 
 this notwithstanding, the Lisbon National theatre 
 is not a favorite with the public. The opening 
 was singularly inauspicious. The piece selected 
 for the occasion was damned, and the voices of 
 the actors were at times rendered inaudible te 
 the spectators by the pattering of rain on the 
 zinc plates which covered the roof. The build- 
 ing, which was raised by subscription, cost up- 
 wards of ninety Contos de reis, between 20, &. 
 30,000 L. independently of the stone which wa 
 given by government from suppressed churches, 
 monasteries, &c. The faade of the portico it 
 ornamented by a group representing Apollo and 
 the Muses, executed by the very able Portu- 
 guese sculptor Francisco d' Assis. 
 
 To the east of this theatre stands the largest 
 church in Lisbon, formerly belonging to the 
 Dominicans, and now a parish church. It is or- 
 namented by eight columns of red marble at 
 the altars in the transept, and by forty six half 
 columns in the rave. The sanctuary contains four 
 colossal pillars of blue marble with some bold 
 carving by the sculptor Padua. The church is 
 principally remarkable for being the renting placa 
 of the great Portuguese Classic Fr. Luiide Sow- 
 la, and for containing at the entrance to the
 
 19 PUBLIC WALK. 
 
 sacristy the tomb of the eminent ascetic writer 
 Fr. Luis de Granada. 
 
 At no great distance from this church stands 
 tho great hospital of St. Joseph. This establish- 
 ment is conducted on a magnificent scale under 
 the superintendance of a committee which is 
 nominated by Government. It generally con- 
 tains about 1.400 sick. The numerous wards 
 are lofty and well aired. The principal one is 
 probably the largest single apartment destined 
 for the receptacle of suffering humanity in the 
 world. The building belonged originally to tbe 
 Jesuits and was appropriated to its present pur- 
 pose by king Joseph after the expulsion of that 
 society from Portugal. It is well attended by a 
 numerous body of physicians and surgeons, and 
 there are twelve clergymen always on the spot 
 to administer spiritual succours to the sick. Con- 
 nected with this establishment there is 'a school 
 of medicine and surgery, a medico-botanical gar- 
 den, a library, and a cabinet of pathological ana- 
 tmy. Its yearly expenditure is about Z/.35, 000. 
 Returning to the Rocio, and quitting it by the 
 itreet which rum to the west of the theatre, we 
 come to the Fatscio Publieo or -'Public walk." 
 These gardens are surrounded by a lofty iron- 
 railing, *nd are laid out partly in flowerbeds,
 
 A3YLO DA MENDICIDADE. 19 ft 
 
 and in part are planted with trees, whose agree- 
 able shade is much sought by the cilizens'during 
 the summer heats. A military band of music 
 is frequently stationed here on Sudnays and fes- 
 tival days. The entrance to these gardens, at 
 both extremities, is not destitute of elegance. 
 Near the Southern gat? is a jet d'eau and basin, 
 whose perennial shower sheds around a delicious 
 coolness on a sultry day. In fine weather there 
 is always a good supply of chairs standing in the 
 walks for the convenience of the public. These 
 chairs belong to the mendicity asylum, and at 
 tolerable profit arises to the charity from th 
 hiring of them to fatigued or indolent prome- 
 naders. 
 
 This asylum, y/sy/o da Mendicidade^ is the 
 next object of note in this neighbourhood. It is 
 approached from the north side of the public walks 
 by a narrow street which ascends in in easterly 
 direction. The building was formerly a Fran- 
 ciscan convent, and is one of the few suppressed 
 religious houses, whose present character may 
 be addueed as an apology for the spoliation of 
 its original possessor!. It is at present occupied 
 by mendicants of both sexes, who have separate 
 apartments, andare comfortably lodged, fed, and 
 e]othed-, the funds are supplied partly by publia
 
 197 MILITARY s8HOOt. 
 
 subscription and occasional fines, and partly by 
 a share in the public lottery, which in Lisbon 
 is drawn every fortnight. The management of 
 the affairs of the establishment is in the hands 
 of a committee of Philanthropic individuals, 
 whose unrequited exertions in favour of the poor 
 inmates deserve the highest commendation. 
 The health and cleanliness of the paupers speak 
 favourably of the interior arrangements, when 
 it is recollected that upwards of five hundred 
 poor are here accommodated. Those who are 
 able are obliged to work in the garden and 
 grounds of the establishment, or in those trades 
 or occupations with which they may happen to 
 be acquainted. A twofold advantage arises from 
 this system the prevention of idleness and its 
 concomitant evils, and the benefiting of the fi- 
 nances of the institution. 
 
 A little to the north of the Asylo is the mi- 
 litary school, Collegia Militar. This establish- 
 ment was founded by queen Mary I. for the 
 gratuitous education of fifty boys, who must be 
 ions of officers of the army Bother children are 
 admissible on paying for their education. The 
 discipline and regulations of course have a 
 military character, and the young men on com- 
 pleting the course of studies enter the service,
 
 DA I.ADHU 198 
 
 and rank as ensigns. The royal foundress of 
 this institution had wisely fixed it at Luz, a 
 small village about a league distant from the 
 capital but it has since been transferred to it 
 present locality in the city, where till the sup- 
 pression of religious houses, flourished the bene- 
 volent institute of St. Vincent of Paul. 
 
 Returning past the mendicity Asylum, we come 
 to an open space known by the nameofCampo 
 de S. Anna. This spot is remakable for a fair 
 that is hero held every Tuesday, and is deno- 
 minated by the Portuguese Feira da Ladra or 
 * Fair of the woman-thief.' Why the fair-sex 
 should give the denomination to this motley as- 
 semblage of rags and rubbish, we are at a loss 
 to determine. As an object of curiosity we 
 would by all means recommend the staanger to 
 pay a visit to the fair of the Ladra. He wrill there 
 find a rich feast of character and comicalities. 
 In one place he will see a collection of brokea- 
 winded, stumbling hacks, or rather shadows of 
 horses, mules, and asses, wasting their little re- 
 maining strength in obeying the furious spurring 
 of shoeless vagabond boys, who hire themselves 
 out to the' owners of the animals for the purposes 
 of attracting customers by riding hard. The la&t 
 and lowest stage of degradation to which a Lisbon
 
 199 FEIRA DA LADR4. 
 
 steed can descend is fo be exhibited on a Tues- 
 day afternoon at Feira da Ladra. At another 
 place in this heterogeneous collection he will see 
 old clothes of every description, from the rough 
 habiliments of the country boor, to the laced fi- 
 nery of the city belle. In juxtaposition, are 
 displayed in tasteful array lengthened rows of 
 rusty ironware of every imaginable variety, in- 
 termingled with old truncated books, birds a~hd 
 birdcages, broken furniture, pictures, crookery- 
 vrare, seals, medals, fruit, shoes, umbrellas, 
 kitchen utensils, plastor-o'f-Paris images, port- 
 manteaus, 'garden implements, &c. &c. The 
 venders of thase articles ar perhaps not less cu- 
 riosities in their way than the wares themselvei. 
 The "auri sacra fames" is strongly displayed 
 in the roguish cast of th^ir countenances, and 
 tbeir*incessant attempts at imposition by asking 
 for their wares at least six times more than they 
 \vill accept from a practised bargainer. 
 
 After this description, it might be expected 
 that none but the lowest classes would ever be 
 oen at such a bazaar. Quite the contrary '. 
 Fcira da Ladra if not a fashionable place of re- 
 sort, is frequently visited by fashionables and 
 rvr-n the royal feet of a princess have been known 
 to tread and linger amid the motley assemblage.
 
 D0 TOUROi. 00 
 
 At the southern extremity of Feira da Ladri 
 stands the Praqados 7owros,or Bull circus. Tbi 
 is a wooden edifice, and was built in the time 
 of Don Michael. It is nearly as large as the 
 circus at Cadiz, and is fitted up with some five 
 hundred boxes, capable of containing eight or 
 ten thousand spectators. It is destitute of neat- 
 ness and elegance, and at present is in a bad state of 
 preservation. Along the highest rows of bench- 
 es it is inappropriately ornamented by a seriei 
 of trophies, vases, and obelisks, all made of wood. 
 On each alternate Sunday the proprietors give 
 the public a representation, which ii duly an- 
 nounced intha most high flown-languajjo. The 
 following may serve as a sample. "This daj 
 will be given, in the elegantly built and delight- 
 ful praca do Campo de Santa Anna, a wonderful 
 and highly amusing combat of thirteen ferocious 
 and monstrous bulls, to which the respectable 
 public of this renowned capital are invited. The 
 proprietors ever anxious to realize the expec- 
 tations of the magnanimous and distinguished 
 cation of Portugal so generous in its patronage 
 of those spectacles, feel the greatest satisfaction 
 in being able to announce, that they have spared 
 neither trouble nor expense in order to secure 
 iha above mentioned animals, which belonged 
 D O 3
 
 201 PUACA DOS TOUU03. 
 
 to the richest proprietor of Riba Tejo, who pos* 
 sesses amongst his herds the most robust and the 
 bravest of bulls. This gentleman has consented 
 to send them to the circus, to assist in the re- 
 presentation that will be given this evening. 1 * 
 Here follows an eulogium on the coolness and un- 
 rivalled agility of the bull-fighters, and after eight 
 lyric stanzas, extolling the ferocity of the ani- 
 mals, the terrible force of their horns, and the 
 thousand dangers of the combat, the whole an- 
 nouncement is wound up by a description of 
 some marvellous fireworks that-will conclude the 
 evening's entertainment. 
 
 In spite, however, of these grandiloquous an- 
 nouncements the visitant supposing him to have 
 subdued the finer feeling* of humanity, which 
 if attended to would keep him away altogether 
 from the cruel and revolting spectacle, will be 
 considerably disappointed, at least if he have the 
 pirit of a genuine campino. The combat unto 
 death both of men and beasts, has ceased since 
 the time of Mary I., and this diversion has lost 
 its most horrid interest and its shuddering at- 
 tractions. The functions of the matador de es- 
 pada have ceased, and good bull-fighters are now 
 no longer trained .up in Portugal, while the 
 most celebrated of Spain refuse to visit the lister
 
 DOS TOUROS. $02 
 
 country. These fights always open, as in Spain, 
 by a grand display on horseback, but the ridi- 
 culous military evolutions, so much in use in 
 that country, have been discontinued in Portugal. 
 When the court is present, there is an rquerry 
 of the royal household, who acts as jockey or 
 Cavalhtiro, and then the best horses from th 
 royal stables are in attendance. Thus mounted 
 he performs the steps and evolutions of the old 
 Spanish horsemanship, at the same time saluting 
 the court and the public, all which is termed 
 cortezias do cavalheiro. The bulF then boundi 
 forth, and is received by the knight, when the 
 most daring of the flag-bearers immediately be- 
 gin to annoy him with their goads and gaudy 
 capes. Some of the mantle-bearers display great 
 dexterity: but in general they are unwieldy and 
 timorous :, though the danger is not great seeing 
 that the animals have their horns tipped with 
 little balls. When the bull lacks bravery, or 
 affords little interest in the combat, or is greatly 
 fatigued, the Gallegos or the Blacks are sent 
 against it, who render a service very similar to 
 that of the dogs, which the Spanish people cla- 
 mour for, with the well known cry of '/Vrros' 
 whenever the bull seems to be too tame. The 
 jallegos take part in all the Portuguese bull-
 
 903 PaAl DOS TOUROS. 
 
 flghti : tkey make their appearance in round hats 
 and quilted hides, and carry two-pronged forks, 
 whence they are called men of the fork, homent 
 de forcado. Their place is beneath the royal 
 tribune, where they are formed in file, and 
 when the bull approaches too near, they receive 
 him on the points of their weapons. Near them 
 may be seen a species of aid-de-camp mounted 
 nd clad in the old Spanish garb, short cape, and 
 hat of plumes. His office is to transmit orderi 
 to all parts of the circus from the authorities. 
 At a given signul the Gallegos cast their 
 forks aside, and rush upon the bull : the most 
 courageous, placing himself in front of the ani- 
 mal sifzes the moment when with lowered head 
 and closed eyes, he is springing upon him, to leap 
 between his horns, to which he clings firmly, 
 allowing himself to be violently flung about. 
 The rest of the gallegos then throw themselves 
 on the brute, securing him by the legs, horns, 
 nd tail, and even jumping upon him until tha 
 nnimal which some-times drags a dozen of them 
 along, is compelled to slop. This is termed sew- 
 ing the bull by ike hoof, and appears to afford th 
 greatest delight, especially to the lower classes of 
 the spectators ; hence at this moment the plau- 
 dits are not enthusiastic. A number of cowi
 
 BIMPOiTA. 01 
 
 with bells now enter, which the lubdued bull 
 peacefully follows out of the circus at the trot. 
 Its wounds are then dressed, and it is either 
 lent home, or reserved for another occasion. The 
 blacks seldom appear, and it would be well for 
 humanity if thry were entirely excluded. These 
 wretched negroes hire themselves out for the va- 
 lue of a few shillings to provoke the bull when 
 he is too tame and cowardly. For this purpose 
 they ornament their heads with feathers, in imi- 
 tation of the savage chieftains of Africa, and 
 conceal themselves in figures of horses made of 
 pasteboard, called cavallinhos de pasta. Thus 
 accoutred, they present themselves before the 
 bull, who is sure to throw them down, and often 
 maims and bruises them in the most shocking 
 manner. Sometimes these wretched beings art 
 forced by the cries of the populace and the or- 
 ders of the directors to reappear iu the arena, 
 even whil? suffering from severe contusions, and 
 death or loss of limbs is the probable result. 
 
 Near the campo de Santa Anna in a north-east- 
 erly direction stands the church and palace of 
 Bemposta, called also Qen's palace from tb 
 fact of its having been built by queen Catharine 
 wife of our Charles II. after her return to Por- 
 tugal. The church, which is neat and elegant, 
 S E
 
 t06 ALTO DE 6. JOAO. 
 
 is built entirely of marble. The royal arms 
 of England may be seen suspended over one of 
 the principal entrances. The palace has large 
 gardens behind, in which there is a magnificent 
 tank. Bemposta was a favorite residence of Don 
 John VI, grandfather of the present queen, and 
 it was here he breathed his last. 
 
 Continuing our road to the north-east we 
 come to the Franciscan nunnery of Arroyot^ 
 which stands outside the gates of the city, and 
 being also a foundation of queen Catharine is 
 like Bemposta ornamented with the British 
 arms over the principal entrance. 
 
 Following the narrow road which diverges in 
 an easterly directipn from the barrier at the con- 
 vent of Arroyos, we ascend the Alto de S. Joao. 
 Here is the cemetery appropriated for the east- 
 ern portion of the city. The ground is spacious 
 and possesses sonic monuments remarkable for 
 the elegance of the sculpture, more than for 
 the taste displayed by those who designed them. 
 Till the year 1833 the reprehensible practice of 
 burying in churches was universally followed not 
 only in Lisbon, but throughout the whole ef Por- 
 tugal. In that year a. law was passed prohibit- 
 ing any interments for the future within the 
 city, and this spot was purchased as a Burial-
 
 ALT BE S. JOAO. 906 
 
 ground by the Municipal chamber, at was also 
 ahothcr at the opposite extremity of the city 
 called Alio dos Prazeres. The unceremonious 
 manner in which the dead are treated Ly the 
 Portuguese is highly disgusting to foreigners. 
 The corpses of the poorer citizens, so far from 
 being privileged with a coffin, are often despoiled 
 before interment of part of the wretched covering 
 in which they are brought to the cemetery : they 
 are then indecently thrown into a trench, where 
 they are heaped indiscriminately, and ^covered 
 with thin layers of earth. When the defunct has 
 been provided with a coffin to convey him to the 
 cemetery, the body is often taken out before 
 burial, and the coffin returned to the under- 
 taker, to be hired out again for a similar purpose. 
 The fees on these occasions are regulated by an 
 order of government } the amount varying accord- 
 ing as the body is put into the ground with or 
 without a coffin, or is conveyed to the cemetery 
 by a common chaise, 01 .by a plumed hearse. 
 The coffins are made in the shape of a trunk 
 or box with an arched lid, and have a lock and 
 key. They are covered with black cloth, and 
 have generally a cross of white tinsel on the top, 
 but never bear the age or the name of the oc- 
 eupaut, Before the coffin is lowered into the
 
 907 BOA HORi. 
 
 ground it is unlocked, and a quantity of lime is 
 itrewed over the corpse, for the purpose of ra- 
 pidly consuming the flesh, a practise which what- 
 ever it may be thought of by the untravelled 
 Englishman, is certainly judicious, considering 
 the heat of the climate, and the shallowncsi of 
 the gravei. 
 
 Soa JTora, Chiado. Ruins of the Car mo. 
 Public Library. Academy of fine Arts. 
 Theatre of S. Carlos. Church of the Martyrs. 
 Loretto.' Church of the 'Incarnation. St. 
 JRogue'& Chapel of St. John the Baptist. Pub- 
 lic gardensof St. 'Peter of Alcantara. National 
 Printing Office Collegia dos Nobres. Silk ma- 
 nufactory. Reservoir and Aqueduct. 
 
 "The dome where pleasure holds her midnight 
 
 reign, 
 
 Here richly decked, admits the gorgeous train ; 
 Tumultuousgrandeur crowds the blazing square, 
 The rattling chariots clash, the torahes glare." 
 
 Goldsmith. 
 
 Ascending Rua. Aurea, Gold street, from the 
 TVrreiro do Pago, nd taking the, fourth street 
 on tho left, called Traveita de S. Nicolao, we
 
 OBI A BO. 
 
 tome at onco to the building in which the va- 
 rious tribunals of justice hold their sessions. It 
 is called Jica .flora, and was formerly a convent 
 of Atigustinian monks. Like all the desecrated 
 edifices which belonged to the religious orders, 
 it still retains in its interior much of its claus- 
 tral appearance, in spite of the changes it has 
 undergone. The trials are public; though it is 
 seldom they are numerously attended, or excite 
 much interest except to the partiei immediately 
 concerned. 
 
 Turning now to the right, we ascend the Rtui 
 nova (Pdlmada, at the top of which formerly 
 stood the beautiful church of the Holy Ghost bi- 
 longing to the Congregation of the Oratorians, 
 which has since baen transformed into a dwell- 
 ing house, while the contiguous convent of the 
 good fathers has been turned into a public hotel. 
 The street ascending to the left is the most fre- 
 quented and fashionable in the city ; its proper 
 name is lluu das portas de Santa Catharina, bt 
 for brevity's sako, it is usually called the CVitmJp. 
 It contains two or three shops, which might be 
 eonsidered as second or third rate establishments 
 in London or Paris. These are elm-fly occupied 
 by French milliners. It is a fcinguiar, but sig- 
 nificant fact, that while a great many French 
 B X i
 
 S09 RUINS OF THE CAUMO. 
 
 shops are to be met with, in every part of the 
 town, scarcely a single one is to be found in the 
 hands of an English proprietor. 
 
 The first street we come to on the right con- 
 ducts to the parish church of the Sacrameuto, 
 to the Portuguese Assembly rooms, which form 
 part of the palace of the Conde de Paraty, and 
 to a square, chiefly remarkable for containing a 
 fountain perpetually besieged by a troop of noisy 
 galh-gos, and for the noble Gothic ruins of the 
 Carmelite church founded by the progenitor of 
 the reiging dynasty, Don Nuno Alvares Ptreira, 
 in the year 1389, in fulfilment of a vow for the 
 successful issue of the glorious battle of Aljuba- 
 rotta. Of this church, which was shaken down 
 by the earthquake of 1755, the great arch of 
 the sanctuary, is left standing. The Gothic 
 porch which also withstood the shock is a re- 
 markable specimen : its appearance sufficiently 
 indicates that its foundations have sunk consi- 
 derably since its first erection. These spacious 
 Tuins when seen from the Rocio, towering at 
 a great elevation have a picturesque effect. 
 The large Carmelite convent adjoining, which 
 T/as suppressed in 1834, affords quarters for the 
 armed municipal police of the city, and on OCCK- 
 lions of alarm, this force is here collected from
 
 PUBLIC UBEARY.. ' S10 
 
 the various stations, and kept under orders to 
 act as circumstances may require. 
 
 Returning to the Chiado and taking the fint 
 turn on the. 1 left across the way, Ruade S. Pran- 
 ctsco, we come to the public library and aca- 
 demy of the fine arts. Imagine an enormous 
 collection of books, augmented by the spoils of 
 all the convents in Portugal, huddled together 
 into the narrow galleries and confined cells of a 
 Franciscan convent, and you wili have an idea of 
 the great National Library of Lisbon. It con- 
 tains upwards of three hundred thousand volumes, 
 eight thousand manuscripts, and a numismatic 
 collection of twenty four thousand medals, com- 
 prising series of the kings of Macedon, SyrU, 
 Egypt, Sicily, Spain, the Roman emperors and 
 of different other states of Europe. Perhaps the 
 most interesting division of the library is that 
 \vhich contains specimens of rare and ancient 
 books. Among others may be seen an edition 
 of the Holy Bible by Gottenherg, -printed at 
 Mayence in 1454, and a Life of Christ, printed 
 in Lisbon in 1496. There are also ancient ma- 
 nuscripts, richly illuminated : among them is one 
 entitled Fuero Jusgo, written in the ninth cen- 
 tury. There is also a beautiful manuscript illu- 
 minated Bible of the twelfth century, which
 
 Ae.iDEMY OF FINE ARTS. 
 
 contains the disputed passage of St- John's Gos- 
 pel [c. v. v. 7.), also a life of the emperor Ves- 
 pasian of which it is said no other copy exists. 
 This library was formerly in the Praca do Com- 
 mcrcio. On the occasion of its removal, some 
 of its greatest treasures disappeared } among the 
 articles missing were a great many gold medali 
 of the Roman emperor?, and a richly embossed 
 chalice of gold, which one of the kings of Por- 
 tugal had given' to the convent of Alcobaga. Th 
 library is open to the public, except on Sundays 
 and Holidays, from nine o'clock till three. In 
 the same building is the Academy of the Fin 
 Arts, which comprises schools of design, sculp- 
 ture and architecture. There is also a gallery 
 of paintings, which has been formed since th 
 oppression of the religions houses, and contains 
 a f->w originals that have escaped from the whole- 
 tale plunder which followed that unjust act. 
 Of the foreign school is a Madonna by Raphael. 
 The Descent of Christ into Limbo by Michael 
 Angelo The taking down from the Cross by 
 Julio Romano The Crucifixion by Vanrlyck 
 two pictures of the same by Grisbanti Th 
 Holy Ghost by Trivisani The Annunciation by 
 Guercino another of the same by Massucci 
 The H?ad of Chriit by Alberto Puro Tht
 
 ACADEMY Of ART?. 312 
 
 Crowning with thorns from the'Bolognese school 
 a landscape by Salvator Rosa two others on 
 copper by Brugi'l a St. Jerome from the Flo- 
 rentine school our La'ly of the Conception by 
 Sebastian Conca. The paintings by Portuguese 
 masters are the following: seven hyGraoVa- 
 co on wood, the Flight into Egypt} St. John the 
 Baptist, the Circumcision, the Adoration of the 
 Kings, the Infant Saviour, the Presentation in 
 the temple, Christ among the doctors, the last 
 mentioned is perhaps the best, three by Vieir* 
 Lnzitano, a St. Augustine, the Holy Family, 
 and a St. Bruno four by Ber.to Coelho the 
 Baptism of St. Augustine by Alphonso Sanchce 
 Coelho St. Bruno in prayer by Scqueirn - 
 Christ fastened to the pillar by Cam pel !o, or as 
 others suppose, Gaspar Dias, and five by Pedro 
 Alexandrino. The Hall of engraving possesses 
 a tolerable collection. The present director of 
 the Academy is the eminent sculptor, Francisco 
 d' Assis, whose Apollo and the Muses on the 
 frontispiece of the National theatre we have men- 
 tioned above; to which we may add some of the 
 best statues at the Ajuda,and the Naiads in the 
 cascade at the entrance to the public walk. 
 
 At the northern extremity of the edifice, im 
 the portion of it formerly occupied by the com- 
 r r
 
 813 THEATRE OF S. CAUI.OS. 
 
 mittary of the Holy Land, is ihp General 
 Police Office, the entrance into \\Iiicli is from 
 the Una da Pan irinh.i. 
 
 Passing down this street we come to the theatre 
 of S. Car/oi, or Italian Opera House. This build- 
 ing was constructed in the short space of six 
 months by a company of rich merchants, at the 
 head of which were Baron GLuintflla, Anselmo 
 Joze da Cruz Snlir.il, Bandcira, Machado and 
 some others. It was opened on the 29th. of 
 April 1793, in celebration of the birth of the 
 princess Donna Maria Teresa, aunt of her Most 
 Faithful Majesty, Donr.a Maria II., and wife 
 of Don Carlos of Spain. The edifice is two sto- 
 ri s high, and is fronted by a square. The en- 
 trance hall, which is about sixty feet long by forty 
 broad is ch'tjiiered with pieces of white and blue 
 marble; the painting on the roof, by the famous 
 artist MachtuN), n presents the faJl of Phaeton. 
 Above this hall is another, intended for a concert- 
 loom. It is ornamented with paintings and 
 lelievos, and IMS two orchestras. The opera- 
 room is of. -i n elliptical form, and is so constructed 
 as to be visible in its whole extent from every 
 part of the pit. The house contains five tiers of 
 twelve boxes ou each tide. The royal box in
 
 THEATRE OF S. CARLO!. fM 
 
 front of the stage occupies in height the space 
 of three rows : the pit can accomodate 640 spec- 
 tators. On the elliptical roof are represented 
 the celestial bodies and the planetary system ^ 
 over the proscenium is placed a large clock, sup- 
 ported on the right by Satyjs and on the left 
 by tht Muses, while above, there leans an un- 
 wieldy cupid, ogling the company perhaps soint- 
 what disgustingly. Of this theatre a late Ger- 
 man traveller thus writes: ''Perhaps the most 
 convenient arrangement in this theatre is that 
 by which each box has its own private key with 
 the number attached on a small metal plate. 
 When a box is engagt.-d, in place of a soiled 
 ticket, a key is given which is required again, 
 only when the term of the engagement is com- 
 pleted. On the other hand the interior of the 
 boxes is very inferior} bare wails not a single 
 carpet long benches without cushions and a 
 total disregard of convenience sadly contrast with 
 the perfect elegance and comfort of the London 
 and Paris operas. However, as the boxes are 
 locked and inclosed by lateral walls, the occu- 
 pants enjoy as much freedom as in their own 
 homes, without being exposed to the indiscreet 
 curiosity of their neighbours, an inconvenience 
 tery conspicuous in the German theatres ; tha
 
 215 UR. CANNING'S s 
 
 ovcrc regulations of which, however, respecting 
 cigars might with advantage he introduced in 
 the theatres of this city. During the spectacle 
 and even in the presence of the court, the saloon 
 and all the galleries are filled with eternal vol- 
 lics of smoke, while the persons in th< in con- 
 verse in a loud voice, and are perpetually mov- 
 ing about from one place to another with that 
 walking mania, so peculiar to the people of 
 the Iberian peninsula." 
 
 It was in a saloon attached to this theatre 
 lhat during Mr. Canning's short residence at 
 Ijinbon in I8I4-lo,a splendid dinner was given 
 him by the resident British merchants. On his 
 Jit'fllth being drunk the hon. gentleman rose, 
 and said : 
 
 11 I am deeply sensible, gentlemen, of the hon- 
 our done to me hy this meeting, and I am high- 
 ly flattered hy the sentiments with which you 
 have pleased to couple my name. 
 
 "To have been a disciple of Mr. Pitt, and to 
 li*vr been a bharer in those councils in which 
 originated the struggle for the salvation of Por- 
 tugal, are tho two circumstances in my political 
 life on which, if on any, I louk back with pride 
 and gratification. 
 
 "It i* a pride to me to have imbibed the
 
 SPEECH. 
 
 principles of Mr. Pitt, and a gratification to 
 receive your testimony of the just application 
 of those principles to the measures by which 
 this country was saved ; principles of which the 
 characteristic was to cherish order and industry 
 at home, as the true sources of commercial opu- 
 lence and national strength abrpad ; to consider 
 the peace, and power, and safety of Great Bri- 
 tain as bound up with the security of other 
 nations. 
 
 From this system of internal and external 
 policy, Great Britain derived the means, and 
 imposed upon herself the duty, of sustaining the 
 long contest with France, which preceded th 
 war of the Peninsula. 
 
 In pursuance of that policy, those who had 
 the direction of the British councils at the mo- 
 ment when the grasping hand of France was 
 extended to seize the crown and liberties of Por- 
 tugal, did not hesitate to fly to her assistant!*; 
 the good sense, the feeling, and tho generosity 
 of the British nation went with their govern- 
 ment in the undertaking. But sanguine acd 
 visionary enthusiasts, I well remember, \veta 
 they deemed to be, who thought that from tb 
 truggle for Portugal might issue the deliverance 
 f Europe ! Such an enthusiast! w*, and *lw*T 
 r r 3
 
 217 
 
 MR. CANNING S SPEECH. 
 
 avowed myself to be. I made this avowal even 
 in times when the contest was most doubtful, 
 and, by many, held to be desperate. 
 
 " True it wai, that clouds and darkness oc- 
 casionally gathered on the horizon } but, even 
 through those clouds, and through that darkness, 
 I saw, or fondly fancied I saw, a ray of light 
 which promised to pierce the gloom, and might 
 hereafter lighten all the nations. 
 
 it It is not at this time of day, or in this spot, 
 that I am called upon to justify these hopes 
 against the imputation of extravagance. Whether 
 as a just and natural consequence of perseve- 
 rance in a god cause, or whether by the special 
 favour of Providence, true it is, in fact, that 
 from this nook of Europe proceeded that impulse 
 by which' its mightiest kingdoms have been set 
 free : true it is, that in this sterile and unpro- 
 mising soil was deposited the seed of that se- 
 curity whose branches now overshadow mankind. 
 From these recollections and associations the land 
 in which we are assembled derives an animating 
 and classic interest even in the eyes of the most 
 indifferent observer. For my own part, I cannot 
 view this city in which for so many months of 
 horror and anxiety the hopes of Europe lay 
 trembling for their doom I could not traverse
 
 MR. CANNING'S SPEECH. Qlf! 
 
 those mighty fastnesses of nature which fence 
 thi capital, those bulwarks behind which victory 
 herself retired to new plume her wings for a 
 flight more soaring and more sustained I could 
 nt contemplate those holy ruins amongst which 
 I have been wandering, where an awful curiosity 
 pauses to inquire whether the surrounding des- 
 truction has been wrought by ancient convulsions 
 of nature, or by the sportive sacrilege and bar- 
 barous malignity of the foe I cannot behold 
 the traces of desolation in tb.ii country, and of 
 suffering among Jhe people, without rendering 
 a juit homage to the character of the nation 
 which by all that it has done, and more, by all 
 that it has endured, has raised itself to a pitch 
 of moral eminence so far beyond the proportion 
 of its territory, population, or power. 
 
 <c I cannot consider all these things without 
 blessing that wise and beneficent policy which 
 brought England with timely speed to the aid 
 of such a nation, to call forth its energies to 
 marshal its resources to support and invigorate 
 its unyielding constancy, and, after its own de- 
 liverance was achieved, to lead it forth in pursuit 
 of its oppressor. 
 
 To have fought together in such a cause 
 to have mingled banners, and to have mingled
 
 319 MR. CANNING'S SPEECH. 
 
 blood, in battlot of such interests, and leading 
 to such results, must undoubtedly cement an 
 eternal union between the British and Portu- 
 guese nation*. 
 
 You will observe, gentlemen, that I am 
 anxious to state the principle of our connexion, 
 and of our claims upon each other, in terms, 
 cot of companion, but ofrquality. Ido so with 
 sincerity, because I believe that statement to be 
 just I might do so from policy, even if I doubted 
 of its justness. 
 
 ; Portugal would not have been saved without 
 England, it is true; but Portugal was to En- 
 gland a main instrument for ilia mightier tatk 
 which England bad to perform. 
 
 M Wt brought hither councils, arms, and Bri- 
 tish discipline, and British valour; we found 
 here willing hearts and active hands a confiding 
 government a people brave and enduring, do- 
 cile in instruction, faithful in following, patient 
 under privations, not to be subdued by disaster, 
 and not to be intoxicated by success. The arm 
 of England was the lever that wrenchod th 
 power of Bonaparte from its basis: Portugal 
 was the fulcrum on which that lever moved. 
 England fanned and fed the sacred fire but 
 nl had already rertd tht altar i\ which
 
 MR. CANNING'S SPEECH. 2tO 
 
 that fire was kindled, and from which it 
 mounted, brightening and widening, until the 
 world wai illumined with the blaze. 
 
 I have said that, even from motives of policy, 
 I would state as nearly equal as possible the 
 balance between Portugal and England. There is 
 a principle of disunion in unequal connexions. 
 Active beneficence is a virtue of easier practice, 
 than forbearance after having conferred, or than 
 thankfulness after having received, a benefit. I 
 know not, indeed, whether it be a greater and 
 more difficult exercise of magnanimity for the 
 one party to act as if he had forgotten, or for 
 the other as if he constantly remembered, the 
 obligation. 
 
 On th part of Great Britain, let us bear 
 in mind, that the feelings to which we addresied 
 ourselves in Portugal were those of national pride 
 and independence. If those feelings were found 
 equal to the occasion, what wonder, or what 
 regret, that they should have turvived it? It is 
 naturally to be expected, that, having accom- 
 plished tha overthrow of its eemies, the geuius 
 of the nation should carry itself with somewhat 
 of a bolder and freer port, even towards its 
 friends. We have no right to feel this sorely 
 it would be neither just nor becoming in us to 
 u G
 
 fif 1 MR. CANNING'S SPEECH. 
 
 do so. We should respect, even in its excess, an 
 independence that we have vindicated, and should 
 pardon even the waywardness of a spirit which 
 we have raised. 
 
 To Portugal, on the other hand, I would 
 say that there is no humiliation in the sentiment 
 of national gratitude ; that a grateful mind is at 
 once indebted and discharged, and recovers its 
 level, by a just acknowledgment that there is no 
 loom for either commercial or political jealousy 
 between Great Britain and Portugal } that the 
 world is large enough both for Portuguese and 
 British commerce ; and that Great Britain, while 
 she has never been wanting to her ally in time 
 of need, seeks no other reward for all her exer- 
 tions, and all her sacrifices, than mutual confi- 
 dence and common prosperity. I am sure that 
 I shall be rightly understood by all those in 
 whose presence I speak, not only as to my 
 meaning, but as to my motives. The delicacy of 
 the situation in which the local government of 
 this kingdom is placed, the weight oftheir res- 
 ponsibility, and the anxiety which (as I have 
 witnessed) necessarily attends it, entitles them 
 to peculiar consideration. I have no fear oftheir 
 disavowing the assurance which I give you of 
 their friendly disposition towards this meeting;
 
 MARTYRS. LORETTO. 
 
 and I venture, therefore, to propose to you, 
 gentlemen, in the confidence that you will re- 
 ceive it cordially, and that your cordiality will 
 be duly estimated and returned * The health 
 of their Excellencies the Governors of the 
 Kingdoms.' " 
 
 The next objects worthy of remark in this 
 neighbourhood are the jthree churches of the Mar- 
 tyrs, the Loretto, and the Incarnation, all si- 
 tuated in the Cbiado. The first of these is re- 
 markable for the antiquity of its foundation, 
 the site having been set aside for religious pur- 
 poses by Alfonso I. in the famous siege, which 
 terminated in the expulsion of the Moors from 
 the city. The present edifice was built after the 
 great earthquake, and contains some tolerable 
 paintings from the hand, we believe, of Pedro 
 Alexandrine. The church of the Loretto was ori- 
 ginally erected by the Italians in the sixteenth 
 century :, it withstood the great earthquake of 
 1755, though its interior was considerably da- 
 maged by the fire which took place on that oc- 
 casion. It was restored by the Pope's Nuncio, 
 and is now considered, both for its architecture, 
 and for the rich paintings it possesses, as ranking 
 among the first religious edifices in the town. For 
 the information of late risers it may be as vrell
 
 2S3 ST. ROCH'S. 
 
 to state that the last mass on Sundays in this 
 church commences at one oclock, P. M. The 
 church of the Incarnation, which stands directly 
 opposite to the last mentioned is remarkably light 
 and airy, and possesses eleven altars; the paintings 
 above them, and especially that on the ceiling, 
 are of a brilliant and gaudy character. The 
 chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, which is en- 
 tirely of marble, is well worthy of notice, for 
 the elegance of its construction, and the taste 
 and skill displayed in the sculptured ornaments 
 and tracery of its dome. 
 
 Ascending the street to the North we now come 
 to the Misericordia, and church of St Roque or 
 Roch. The establishment known by the name 
 of the Misericordia, which is connected with 
 the church, is a charitable institution, and dates 
 its foundation as far back as the reign of Em- 
 manuel the great. The object of this noble foun- 
 dation, or rather association, is to alleviate by 
 oflices of charity all the" ills that flesh is heir to." 
 It takes care of the parentless infant, and watches 
 over the education of the young, carries consola- 
 tion to the poor, the sick, and the captive, 
 administers corporal and spiritual assistance to 
 the dying, conveys the bodies of the indigent to 
 the tomb, and with pious solicitude for those it
 
 ST. ROCKS. 
 
 has cherished while living, offers up suffrage* for 
 their departed sotils. The foundlings, who are 
 annually received in the institution amount to 
 upwards of two thousand} the hospital of St 
 Joseph above described is one of its dependencies: 
 it also possesses an asylum for female orphan J, 
 of whom a certain number are annually furnish- 
 ed with marriage portions or sent out to ser- 
 vice in respectable families. The institution also 
 provides advocates for the defence of poor priso- 
 ners, and distributes monthly alms to invalids, 
 whom it also supplies with gratuitous medical 
 assistance. "We have, in a former chapter, noticed 
 the interest which it takes in petitioning for the 
 pardon of condemned criminals, and in preparing 
 them for death. 
 
 The administration of this great a House of 
 Mercy " was formerly conducted by a brother- 
 hood, one half of whose members were nobles, 
 and the other half persons of an inferior rank. 
 The services of all were gratuitous. In 1834, 
 the reforming mania, which levelled or changed 
 all the existing institutions of the country, in- 
 terfered also with this establishment; and by a 
 decree ofDom Pedro the administration of their 
 own affairs was taken from the brotherhood, 
 and givea to a committee named by government. 
 G G 2
 
 825 ST. ROCK'S 
 
 The actual president of the Committee is the 
 Marquis of Fayal, a nobleman, whose muni- 
 ficence and personal dedication to the interests 
 of the institution, are beyond all praise. Th 
 establishment is not generally open to visitors^ 
 but admission may be obtained by applying to 
 the directors. On the day of the Holy Innocents 
 (December 28th.) there is free admission for the 
 public. We cannot conclude without paying the 
 tribute of our admiration to the cleanliness, order 
 and comfort that prevail in this institution. m 
 
 The following was the official account of the 
 receipt and expenditure published for the year 
 ending June 18-44: 
 Receipt. . . . 123:496,524 reis . . about L. 30,750 
 
 Expenditure 122:61 1,506 L. 30,500 
 
 Number of Foundlings in the house . . 450 
 
 Do under 7years of age . . 132 
 
 Do put out to nurse and ] 
 
 supported by the establishment j ' 
 
 Total. . . 9,415 
 
 Attached and belonging to the Miscricordia is 
 the church of St Roque. This church, as well as 
 th* adjoining building, was formerly in the hands 
 of the Jesuits, to whom it was given in 1533
 
 ST. UOCHS. 
 
 by Don John III. St Francis Borgia, third ge- 
 neral of the Society, is said to have preached 
 from one of the pulpits and his cloak or black 
 gown, darned, probably by himself, with white 
 thread, is still preserved here as a relic. 
 
 The church contains some good paintings by 
 Bento Coelho, Gaspar Dias, Avillar and Vioira 
 Lusitano. The life of St Francis Xavier by Di- 
 ogo Reinoso in the Sacristy it worthy of at- 
 tention. A few years ago a number of relics, 
 enclosed in a variety of rich shrines and re- 
 liquaries were discovered under some of the al- 
 tars. But the greatest object of attraction in this 
 church to a stranger is the farfamed chapel of 
 St John the Baptist. 
 
 This chef d'oeuvre of art owes its origin to 
 the piety of Don John V.It is said that entering 
 the church on a certain occasion, and observing 
 that the chapel of St John the Baptist was in- 
 ferior to the other chapels in its decorations, he 
 enquired the reason ; and being informed that 
 while every chapel of the edifice had its respective 
 brotherhood to provide for its embellishment, St 
 John's had none, "then," said the monarch, 
 seeing that .this chapel is dedicated to the 
 Saint of my name, and is without a bro- 
 4; thcrhood, it shall henceforward be under my
 
 827 ST. nocn's. 
 
 care. Shortly after he sent the dimensions 
 of the place to Rome, and ordered that a chapel 
 should there be constructed, that no expense 
 should be spared in the richness and beauty of 
 its decorations. The celebrated painter Angus- 
 tine Massuci was employed to furnish the designs 
 for the three chief Mosaics. When completed it 
 was erected in St. Peter's, and Pope Benedict 
 XIV. was the first that officiated on its altar. 
 It was then immediately taken to pieces, 
 packed in caies, and sent to Lisbon with the 
 Italian artificers^ who were to be employed in 
 its erection. The king was on his deathbed vv lien 
 it arrived , & the work was completed early in 
 the reign of his successor, Joseph I. The wall 
 on the outside of the principal arch is of coral ; 
 on the keystone are the arms of Portugal suppor- 
 ted by two angels. The arch itself is of alabaster. 
 The pavement is in marble mosaic, in imitation 
 of a flowered carpet, inlaid with porphyry, and 
 having a gfobe in the contre. The side basesofthe 
 chapel are of black Italian marble, interspersed 
 \vilh white. The rails in front are of verdantique^ 
 the two altarsteps are of porphyry set in bronze. 
 The suppedaneum is of granite. The chapel has 
 eight columns of lapis Inzzuli, the- bases of which 
 arc of alabaster and amethysts. Their capitals
 
 ST. ROCH'S. 2f3 
 
 arj of bronze. 
 
 The doorposts and lintels are of verdantique ^ 
 the frieze surrounding the chapel is of jaldantique, 
 edged with wrought bronz?. The roof is orna- 
 mented with seraphim and borderings of jasper, 
 and inlaid with verdantique and jaldantique. 
 The mouldings of the pictures are of porphyry, 
 bordered with wrought bronze. The altar is of 
 jaspar, with a frontal of lapis lazzuli, bordered 
 with amethysts. The space between the chief 
 mosaic and the top of the altar is inlaid with 
 wrought coral, amethyst and lapis lazzuli. We 
 now come to the Mosaics, the largest of which 
 is over the altar; the Baptism of Christ in the 
 Jordan. The Eternal Father is represented in a 
 cloud, attended by a groupof angels ; underneath 
 the Dove descends over the head of Christ, who 
 is seen standing in the Jordan near the Baptist, 
 ministered to by angels and regarded by the 
 two Marys. The artist has been singularly fe- 
 licitous in delineating the feet, faintly discovera- 
 ble under the water. The mosaic on the Gospel 
 side represents the Descent of the Holy Ghost 
 on the Apostles and the B. Virgin ^ that op- 
 posite is the Annunciation, Of these mosaics 
 we will only observe, that such is their inimi- 
 table excellence, that we have often seen in- 
 H H
 
 ST. ROCH'S. 
 
 credulous visitors refusing to believe that they 
 were anything else but paintings on canvass, 
 till they had ascended a ladder, and run their 
 hands over the chilly marble. The chapel is en- 
 riched* with three lamps of solid silver, orna- 
 mented with exquisitely wrought figures. It 
 possesses also two massy and richly ornamented 
 ilvcr candlesticks, ten feet in height, each of 
 which is said to have cost 75,000 crowns. On 
 festival days a frontal of lapis lazzuli is placed 
 before ,the altar, supported by two angels in 
 solid silver. In the centre of this frontal is re- 
 presented St. John's vision of the Lamb, and 
 all the Ancients making their adoration. This 
 group is entirely of molten silver, and with the 
 frontal & angels is said to have cost 60,000 
 crowns. The altar-plate used on the festival of 
 St John is proportionally sumptuous. These 
 riches were all taken to the mint by the French 
 in 1808 } but were all brought back again with 
 the exception of four reliquaries, which had been 
 coined into money. It was in contemplation to 
 convey the entire chapel to France } and artists 
 had been sent for to give their opinion on the 
 feasability of the project } but the expulsion of 
 the plunderers rendered the design abortive. 
 Before leaving the church ofStRoque we will
 
 ST. ROCKS 
 
 call the traveller's attention to the tomb of an 
 English knight, Sir Francis Trejean, which is 
 to be seen directly under the pulpit near the 
 chapel of St John. The history of this gentle- 
 man is curious, and is narrated in a Latin me- 
 moir printed shortly after his death. Having 
 been seen at court by Queen Elizabeth, the 
 "virgin Glueen " fell deeply in love with him. 
 His virtue was proof against her advances , till 
 chagrined at the rejection of her addresses, she 
 pursued him with the bitterest resentment. His 
 adherence to the creed of his forefathers furnished 
 her with a pretext, and the knight after an 
 imprisonment of twenty eight years, escaped to 
 the continent, and died in Lisbon with the re- 
 putation of a saint. 
 
 The inscription on his tomb is as follows: 
 Aqui esta em peocorpo de Dom Francisco 
 Trejean, Fidalgo Ingrez mui illustre o qual de- 
 pois de confiscados seus Estados e grandes tra- 
 balhos padecidos em 28 annos de prisSo pellade- 
 fesa da fe Catholica em Inglaterra em persegui- 
 c;ao da Rainha Isabel no anno de 1608 a 29 de 
 Dezembro niorreu nesta Cidade de Lisboa com 
 grande fama de santidade avendo 17 annos que 
 estava sepultado, nesta igreja de S. Roque da 
 Corapanhia de J.H. S. no anno de 1626 aos 29
 
 t31 GARDES OF 5. PEDRO 
 
 de Abril te achou seu corpo inteiroe incorrupto, 
 e foi collocado nette lagar peios Ingreses Ca- 
 tbolieos rc-iidentes oesta Cidade aos 29 de Abril 
 1598. " 
 
 An Hibermian translation of the above epitaph 
 begins thus : " Here ket tiaiiding up, 6fc. .' 
 
 A little to the north of the church of St. Ro- 
 que are the promenade and flowergarden of St. 
 Peter of Alcantara, so denominated from the 
 church and convent in the vicinity, which wai 
 formerly held by friars of that order, but which 
 now serves as an aylura for female orphans, 
 and is a dependency on the Misericordie. The 
 prominade and flovrergarden are remarkable for 
 producing magnificent ranunculuses, and com- 
 manding a noble prospect of the eastern portion 
 of tb city. 
 
 Continuing oar walk up the principal street, 
 which takes a north westerly direction, we 
 come to the ruins of the Collegio do Nobrrs, 
 originally a Jesuits 1 College , and afterwards 
 formed iwFo a kind of semi-university, with an 
 observatory and naval school ; it was accidentally 
 destroyed by fire a few years ago. A little farther 
 on, to the left, is the National Printing Office. 
 This establishment belongs to government, and 
 is well worth inspection. Every thing con necte-J
 
 SILK. MAKUFACTORT. 
 
 with the typographic art is hereto be met with, 
 from the opening of the dies for casting the 
 type, to the hot- pressing of the sheet* after tbev 
 are printed. There is a steampress, vhich was 
 brought from France, and a great number of 
 band-presses of cast iron after the most modern 
 and approved models. The order, with which 
 every thing is conducted, speaks highly for those 
 who preside. Some works have la telv issued from 
 this printing-office which would be no discredit 
 to the first establishments in London or Paris. 
 The * Meditacoes Religiosas "' of Consflbeiro 
 Jose Joachim Rodrisues Bastos and the if Vir- 
 gem da Polonia '* of the sane distinguished 
 writer may be mentioned as specimen?. 
 
 At no great distance, in the same direction, 
 stands the sumptuous residence of the Marquis 
 of Fayal. and nearly opposite, the silk manu- 
 factory. The last mentioned establishment owes 
 its foundation to two kings. John V.and Joseph 
 I. It has since passed into private hands. The 
 weaving is all done by hand-looms ;and the ar- 
 ticles though dear are for the most part of a 
 good quality. There is aJso here a narsery for 
 silkworms. 
 
 Crossing the open space, which term: 
 
 the street, we reach the reservoir . This is 
 ' H 
 
 H ti .
 
 133 AQUEDUCT. 
 
 building of stone, erected by John V. for the 
 purpose of forming a receptacle for the wa ter con- 
 ducted to the city through the grand aqueduct. It 
 consists of a large square basin with walls of a 
 prodigious thickness, covered with an arched 
 roof, supported by eight pilasters. There is a 
 broad walk round the basin, and the water 
 enters the reservoir by a grand cascade. From 
 this spot there is a subterraneous communication 
 Kvith the aqueduct, as well as with all the foun- 
 tains that are supplied by it, in every part Of 
 the city. The terrace above the reservoir is open 
 to visitors and commands an extensive prospect. 
 Leaving the reservoir and traversing a square 
 planted with mulberry trees, and for that rea- 
 son denominated " Das ^moreiras'% we pass 
 under an arch of the Doric order, which forms 
 part of the aqueduct, and was built at the ex- 
 pense of the city, to commemorate the completion 
 of that great work. On each side of this arch, 
 and on the Casa de Registo are fulsome Latin 
 inscriptions in praise of the work and of the 
 Monarch who completed it, the latter being 
 ttyled tRetjwm 3/orimt<s% and the former ' Orbit 
 M iraculum" 1 . The road before us conducts in a 
 Btrait line to the city gates, and thence to the 
 famous structure by which the water is conveyed
 
 AQUEDUCT. 234 
 
 over the valley of Alcantara. a The aqueduct of 
 Lisbon ", says Murphy, "may be justly consi- 
 dered one of the most magnificent monuments 
 of modern construction in Europe , and in point 
 of magnitude is not inferior, perhaps, to any 
 aqueduct the ancients have left us. 
 
 The dimensions of it in the most depressed 
 part of the vale, are as follow: 
 
 Feet. Inches. 
 
 Height of the arch from the 
 ground to the ir.tr ados 30 10 
 
 From the vertex of the arch to the 
 extrados exclusive of the parapet. 8 
 
 From the e xtrados to the top of 
 the ventilator 23 -4 
 
 Total height from the ground to 
 the summit of the ventilator. . . . 263 10 
 
 Breadth of the principal arch. . 107 8 
 
 Breadth of the piers of the prin- 
 cipal arch 8 
 
 Thickness of the piers in ge- 
 neral 23 8 
 
 The arches on each side of the principal one 
 diminish in breadth, as the piers whereupon they 
 rest decrease in height with the declivity of the 
 hills. In examining the respective dimension*
 
 S35 AQWEDUCT. 
 
 of the several arches, I find they do not recipro- 
 cally diminish in geometrical progression :, in- 
 deed it is obvious to the eye-, a very great 
 obstruction to the beauty of the perspective. 
 
 It would also contribute to the beauty of the 
 structure, if all the arches were curves of the 
 same species', instead of which there are fourteen 
 of them Gothic, or pointed arches in a range ^ 
 the rest are semicircular. The architect seems 
 to have been apprehensive that the principal 
 arches, if made semicircular, would become very 
 expensive, on account of their requiring a higher 
 extrados than pointed arches to keep them in 
 equilibrium ^ since there is no arch, except the 
 catenaria, that will support itself without an 
 incumbent weight proportionable to the sub- 
 tense. 
 
 In the rest of the Aqueduct there is much 
 judgment displayed. No part of it has failed, 
 or appears to have received the least injury from 
 the great earthquake , a proof of the excellence 
 of the contignation. 
 
 Over the arches there runs a vaulted corridor, 
 nine fret six inches high, by five fuel broad, 
 internally. A continued passage runs through 
 the centre of it for the people who constantly 
 attend to keep it in order, "and a semicircular
 
 AftUjtDUCT. 
 
 channel or conduit, of thirteen inches diameter 
 at each side through which the water is con- 
 veyed. It is worthy of remark, that these chan- 
 nels are laid, not in an inclined direction, as in 
 other aqueducts, but horizontally :, to compen- 
 sate for this, a small depression is made at cer- 
 tain intervals, by which the water is impelled 
 along the horizontal line} a method supposed to 
 require less declension in conveying water than 
 a continued inclined line. There are two tho- 
 roughfares for foot passengers along the aque- 
 duct, one on each side of the corridor :, each 
 pathway is five feet wide, and is. defended by a 
 stone parapet. 
 
 From the remains of some ancient walls which 
 were found here, it is supposed that the Romans 
 who inhabited Lusitania attempted to build an 
 aqueduct in the place where the present one is 
 situated. 
 
 King Emmanuel held a similar work in con- 
 templation, by which he proposed to convey the 
 water to the Praga do Rocio, and there to erect 
 a magnificent fountain. The design was made 
 agreeably to his orders, by Francisco do Olhan- 
 do } it consisted of a figure representing Lisbon 
 standing on a column, guarded by four elephants, 
 
 from whose trunks the water was to have issued. 
 H u 2
 
 237 AQUEDUCT, 
 
 Bat Emmanuel had many other more impor- 
 tant designs to execute, and, therefore, left this 
 unfinished. 
 
 The Infante Don Luiz, in the reign of John 
 III. resumed the idea of the aqueduct, but failed 
 likewise in its execution. Luiz Marinho says, 
 that the senate of Lisbon made a collection for 
 that purpose, amounting to six hundred thousand 
 crusades, which were lavished in public rejoicings 
 at the entry of Philip III. of Spain. 
 
 The honour of executing this noble structure 
 was reserved for John V. This munificent prince 
 laid the foundation of it in the year 1713, iand 
 in nineteen years the whole work was comple- 
 ted. Manoel da Maya was the name of the archi- 
 tect who designed and superintended the execu- 
 tion of the above aqueduct. The expense of it 
 was partly defrayed by a tax cf one real upon 
 every pound of meat sold in Lisbon." 
 
 In the years 1839-40 the number of suicides 
 that occurred here, by persons throwing them- 
 selves from the parapet, induced the Municipal 
 chamber of Lisbon to close the entrance to the 
 footpath over the aqueduct. A gang of assassins 
 was detected about the same time, and it was 
 believed that several of the reported suicides had 
 been the unsuspecting victims of these plunderers.
 
 IULA.CES, &C. 
 
 - '-.,.: I?. if, 
 
 Mansions of the Duke of Palmetto.^ Marquis of 
 Vallada and Cojint of Sobral. General Post- of- 
 fice. English College. Museum. Academy of 
 the Sciences. Cm-let. Torre de Tombo. JEs- 
 trella. English Srigiltine Convent. Protestant 
 chapel and burial ground. Cemetery dot Pra- 
 zeret. 
 
 Why all this toil for triumphs of an hour ? 
 What though we wade in wealth, or soar 
 
 in fame ? 
 
 Earth's highest station ends in "Here he lies 1 ' 
 And "Dust to dust" concludes her noblest 
 
 song. 
 
 Young. 
 
 Having conducted the stranger in our last 
 walk past the church of the Loretto, we will 
 select this for the starting point of our present 
 excursion. Taking the street which runs west- 
 ward, we come to a stately mansion on our 
 right, which belongs to the duke of Palmella. 
 It has lately undergone a thorough repair, 
 and is being decorated in a very superior style, 
 under tho superintendence of Signer Cinati, an 
 able Italian artist.
 
 239 ENGLISH COLL'ECE. 
 
 A little further onwards, and nearly fronting 
 each other, are the houses of the ruarquisofVal- 
 lada and count of Sobral, both of them spaci- 
 ous buildings, but possessing few claims to ele- 
 gance or comfort. Near these is the general Post- 
 office, occupying part of the ancient palace of 
 the marquis of Olhao. All letters, which are 
 not intended for the English packet, must here 
 be posted by five in the afternoon. For the con- 
 venience of the city there are posting boxes in 
 various localities, from which letters are taken 
 to their destination, or to the General Post-office 
 at three every afternoon. The Spanish mail, 
 taking letters for the north, leaves three times 
 a week, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. 
 Letters for the English Packet are to be posted 
 at the English Post-office at Rua da Emenda. 
 
 Ascending Rua do Carvalho, a street which 
 fronts the mansion of the marquis of Vallada, 
 and taking the third turn to the left, we arrive 
 at the English College. This is another of those 
 establishments which owes its existence to the 
 persecuting enactments of former times. Exclu- 
 ded in their fatherland from the seats of learn- 
 ing raised by the piety of their ancestors, the 
 British Catholics were for centuries forced to 
 t-diicate their youth in a foreign clime. When
 
 ENGLISH COLLEGE. 240 
 
 feared, U vested with the sacerdotal character, 
 they were stealthily introduced to the scene of 
 their future labours, where, branded by the law 
 as felons and traitors, they were compelled to 
 skulk for the rest of their lives in hourly dread 
 of the informer and pursuivant, and often termi- 
 nated their meritorious career in prison or on the 
 scaffold. But these things, as was befitting, 
 have passed away } and though a remnant of 
 them is still permitted to disgrace the statute 
 book of England, the great bulk of the nation 
 would willingly see even this remnant erased. 
 Splendid Catholic establishments, both lay and 
 ecclesiastical, are now to be met with in every 
 part of Great Britain : yet as the seminary at 
 Lisbon still answers the end of its original in- 
 stitution, it has been thought proper to main- 
 tain it in its present state. It is supported 
 chiefly by funds in the bank of England, and 
 spending its income in this country, amply re- 
 pays the protection that has been afforded to it 
 by all the governments that have ruled in Por- 
 tugal. The date of its foundation is 1028. Ma- 
 ny eminent characters have been nurtured in this 
 seminary ; the names of Sergeant and Gother 
 are well known to British Catholics. 
 
 The building is of irregular shape, having 
 I I
 
 241 MUSEUM, &C. 
 
 been erected at different periods. It possesses a 
 cabinet of natural philosophy, a library, and 
 astronomical observatory. The view from the 
 latter is one of the best in the city, command- 
 ing a prospect of the river, the bar, and the 
 Atlantic ocean to the west, Palmella and the 
 Arrabida mountains to the south, the famous 
 linea of Torres Vedras to the north, and present- 
 ing, from its central position, a panorama of 
 the circumjacent town. The college from its 
 foundation reckons fifteen Presidents, and usual- 
 ly numbers about thirty students. 
 
 Just below the English College westward 
 stands what was formerly the Franciscan cen- 
 vnt of the Jesus, now converted into a museum 
 of curiosities, picture gallery, and library of the 
 Academy of the Sciences. The two former are 
 open to the public on Thursday afternoons, ad- 
 mission gratuitous. The last may be visited on 
 any other day of the week, except Sundays and 
 holidays, from the hours of ten to five. This 
 library does honour to the monks by whose in- 
 dustry it was collected and formed. It consists 
 of one spacious room, surrounded by a light gal- 
 lery, and contains upwards of 40,000 volumes. 
 The acting committee of the Academy of the 
 Sciences, to which on the suppression of the
 
 ACADEMY OF THE SCIENCES. 242 
 
 convent the library was made over, has had the 
 good sense not to disturb the judicious arrange- 
 ment of the books. They keep their own library 
 in a separate apartment. The Lisbon Royal 
 Academy of the Sciences was founded in 1778 
 by the Duke of Lafoens under the auspices of 
 Queen Mary I* Its members are either Hono- 
 rary, Effective, Free, or Corresponding, and 
 each one is expscted to produce every year some 
 original contribution to science or literature. 
 Among the works published by the Academy 
 one of the best is "The memoirs of literature" 
 by Antonio Caetano de Amaral, in eight vo- 
 lumes. The memoirs of the Academy itself 
 amount to twelve volumes in folio. The three 
 first contain some interesting papers, by the 
 greatest mathematician Portugal ever produced, 
 Joze Monteiro da Rocha. The sittings of the 
 Academy are held every Wednesday. The king 
 is perpetual president. 
 
 The museum and picture gallery are connected 
 with the same institution, and though neither 
 of them can boast of very rare specimens, they 
 will amply repay a visit. In the mineralogical 
 department there is a rich collection of speci- 
 mens. 
 
 To the west of the museum, across the valley,
 
 243 TORRE DO TOMSO. 
 
 lies the Cortes, or house of Parliament. It was 
 formerly a Benedictine convent, of which three 
 sides only, each 1.50 feet in length, have been 
 completed. Long before the suppression of Re- 
 ligious houses, the side to the west was used as 
 a depository for the public archives, and is 
 still employed for the same purpose under the 
 denomination of Torre do Tombo. In the anci- 
 ent law-language of Portugal, Tombo means the 
 examination and description of the tenures of 
 all kinds of property, boundaries of land, and 
 the registration of the title deeds by which they 
 are held. The word was afterwards applied in 
 a collective sense, and now means the dep6t in 
 which all public and private papers of great va- 
 lue are registered or lodged. Here are deposited 
 the writs of the chancery, the original copies of 
 the laws, royal grants, treaties, and state pa- 
 pers of every description from the earliest pe- 
 riods. 
 
 As specimens of ancient curiosities preserved 
 in the Torre do Tombo may be mentioned the 
 following, 
 
 1. The treaty of peace between the Lusita- 
 nians and Carthaginians commanded byllanon, 
 by virtue of which 8,000 of the former joined 
 the Carthaginian army in Sicily.
 
 CORTES. 244 
 
 2. The treaty made by Viriatus with the 
 Romans. 
 
 3. Convention between Tantamo, chief of the 
 Lusitanians, and the Romans. 
 
 4. The treaty of peace called Julia, between 
 the Lusitauians and Julius Caesar. 
 
 5. Treaty for the partition of Spain among 
 the Alani, Vandals and Suevi. 
 
 6. Treaty of alliance between the Lusitanians 
 and the Suevi. 
 
 The bible from the Jeronymite convent of 
 Belem, sent here on the extinction of the reli- 
 gious orders is also well worthy attention. It 
 consists of seven volumes in manuscript, the first 
 of which was completed in 1495. It is enriched 
 with beautiful paintings and heraldic emblems, 
 attributed to Julio Romano, but which are more 
 probably the work of Pedro Perrugino. The 
 bible is said to have been presented by Pope 
 Leo X. to king Emmanuel the Great. Junot 
 carried it to France in 1808, but after the ge- 
 neral peace in 1814 it was found among the 
 effects of his widow, and wai repurchased for 
 40,000 francs. 
 
 Besides this department, the convent contains 
 the chambers of peers and deputies, committee- 
 rooms, offices, tic. The chamber of deputies it 
 i i
 
 215 BRIG1TTINE CONVENT. 
 
 a large saloon in the form of a paralellogram 
 surrounded by tribunes. The President's chair 
 lands on one of the longer sides of the hall 
 about the middle. The deputies harangue from 
 their places ; a circumstance, which joined to the 
 peculiar configuration of the apartment obliges 
 the speakers to keep their voices at a high pitch 
 in order to be heard. On the left side of the 
 edifice is the house of peers. It is small, and 
 contains a low gallery for strangers, and a se- 
 parate one of the same elevation for the con- 
 venience of the diplomatic body. The chairs, 
 which are disposed in rows like the seats of an 
 amphitheatre, have each a desk in front. The 
 peers, like the deputies, address the President 
 from their places. 
 
 Taking the street that runs parallel with the 
 Cortes we come by the first turn to the right 
 to the Brigittine Convent. This establishment 
 is remarkable for being inhabited by a commu- 
 nity of nuns founded by our Henry VII. who 
 were once the proprietors of the noble park of 
 Sion House near London, which is at present 
 held by the duke of Northumberland. The fol- 
 lowing particulars relating to these religious, 
 a* occurring in Spelman's history of Sacrilege 
 page 26S, may prove interesting.
 
 SION HOUSE. 946 
 
 " Sion House, with the exception of Shaftes- 
 bury, was the most influential nunnery in Eng- 
 land. The site was, on the dissolution, kept in 
 the King's hands and Catherine Howard was con- 
 fined here for nearly three months, leaving this 
 prison for the scaffold. Henry's body lay here in 
 btate ; and here it was that Father Peto's prophecy 
 was fulfilled, by the dogs licking his blood. Ed- 
 ward VI. granted the place to the duke of So- 
 merset, who perished on the scaffold } then it 
 reverted to the Crown. Next it came to John 
 Dudley, duke of Northumberland, and here it 
 was thatlady Jane Grej i^s persuaded to accept 
 the Crown. In 1557, the nuns having all this 
 time lived together in community, were recalled 
 and put in possession of the house, and sir Fran- 
 cis Englefield rebuilt two sides of th monastery. 
 On the re-dissolution by queen Elizabeth, it 
 came again to the crown, and was by James I, 
 granted to Henry Percy, earl of Northumber- 
 land, a one of the most unfortunate," says Au- 
 gier, "of his race. On a groundless suspicion of 
 having been concerned in the Gunpowder Plot, 
 he was stripped of all his offices, adjudged to pay 
 a fine of L. 30,000, and sentenced to imprison- 
 mentinthe Tower for life." In 1613 he offered 
 Sion House in lieu of the fine, but it was not
 
 si ON HOUSE. 
 
 accepted. In 1619, after fifteen years imprison- 
 ment, he was set at liberty, on paying L.l 1,000. 
 In the time of his son it was used as a prison 
 for the children of king Charles; and his grand- 
 son Josceline, eleventh carl, died without issue 
 male. Lady Elizabeth Percy was heiress of this, 
 nnd of five other of the oldest baronies in Eng- 
 land , and before she was sixteen, she had been 
 thrice a wife and twice a widow. She was 
 married, at the age of thirteen, to Henry Ca- 
 vendish, earl of Ogle, only son and heir of the 
 Newcastle family ; he died a few months after- 
 wards. Thomas Thf>me, of Longleat, esq., of 
 the family of Church-property notoriety, and 
 count Konigsmark, wore rivals for her hand. 
 She was married to the former ; but before the 
 marriage could be consummated, he was assas- 
 sinated by three ruffians hired by Konigsmark. 
 She was married three months afterwards, to 
 Charles "the Proud" duke of Somerset. The 
 character of this man is well known. The roadi 
 used to be cleared when he rode out ^ he made 
 iiis daughters stand while he slept in the after- 
 noon \ and left one of them L20,000 less than 
 the other for sitting down at that time when 
 tired. He had many children, but one eon on-
 
 SION HOUSE; S48 
 
 Iy survived him. In this son the male line 
 failed again, sir Hugh Smithson succeeding. 
 
 While the lay possessors of Sion, notwith- 
 standing their riches and honours, were thus 
 made like a wheel, and as stubble before the 
 wind, the poor nuns were pilgrims indeed, but 
 still remained a community. They first went 
 to Dermond in Flanders, then to Zurich-zee in 
 Zealand, then to Mishagan,then to Antwerp, 
 and then to Mechlin. In great danger, when 
 that city was taken by the Prince of Orange, 
 they nevertheless escaped , going first to Ant- 
 werp, then to Rouen, and, last of all, to Lisbon. 
 Here, in process of time, they were enabled to 
 build a Sion House of their own ^ here, though 
 their house was burnt down in 1651, and over- 
 thrown by the earthquake in 1755, they still 
 remained: and here, though their house was for 
 a while taken possession of by the Peninsular 
 army, and a part of the sisterhood sought refuge 
 in England where they continued, they still 
 prosper. They keep the original keys of the 
 house in token of their continued right to the 
 property." 
 
 Over the door, at the entrance from the street 
 is a beautifully carved stone pedestal, which the 
 nuns brought away from Sion House and carried 
 K K
 
 PROTESTANT CEMETERY. 
 
 with them in all .their peregrinations. It is sur- 
 mounted by an iron cross. 
 
 Ascending the street which passes the entrance 
 of the convent we soon come to the magnificent 
 church and convent of the Estrella or the Sa- 
 cred Heart. This foundation owes its exis- 
 tence to Q-ueen Mary I. in fulfilment of a vow. 
 Her remains rest in a beautiful mausoleum that 
 stands on the right side of the High Altar. The 
 centre of the church, which is in the form of a 
 cross, is crowned by a superb dome, rising ovet 
 the quadrangle, at the intersection of the nave 
 and transept, and is gradually formed into a cir- 
 cle by pendenlives springing from the angles of 
 the piers. This stone edifice is said to have cost 
 five million cruzados, upwards of half a million 
 sterling. In the year 1828 the cupola was struck 
 by lightning and considerably damaged. Simi- 
 lar accidents have occurred more recently, and 
 yet the obvious precaution of protecting it by a 
 conductor has not yet been taken. The view 
 from the cupola will amply repay the trouble 
 of ascending to it. 
 
 Taking the street which runs in a northerly 
 direction, from the EstreLla, called Travessa dos 
 Ladroes, we immediately come to the English 
 Protestant cemetery. At the entrance stands the
 
 CEMETERY DOS TRAZERES. 250 
 
 parsonage, a building originally erected by Ge- 
 rard de.Vimes Esq., and made over by him to 
 the British factory at Lisbon as a hospital for 
 poor British subjects. The cemetery is laid out 
 in walks shaded by lofty cypress trees. It was 
 assigned to the English in the year 1655 in ful- 
 filment of the fourteenth article of the treaty 
 concluded between England and Portugal in the. 
 time of Oliver Cromwell. After the treaty of 
 Vienna a chapel was erected within the burial 
 ground ^ it is remarkable for nothing more than 
 the simplicity of its construction. 
 
 Among the remains of British subjects inter? 
 red in this cemetery are those of Henry Field- 
 ing, the novelist. His grave for a long period 
 was suffered to remain without a memorial, but 
 is now covered by a large monument bearing a 
 Latin inscription, as heavy and inelegant as the 
 monument itself. 
 
 From the Protestant the visitor may proceed 
 to the Catholic cemetery of the Prazeres. It may 
 be reached by taking the first turn to the left 
 after quitting the English parsonage. Thu bu- 
 rial ground, like that described at page 20G, 
 though of recent origin, can boast of some hand- 
 some carving and many elegant monuments. 
 The chapel that at present stands in the cemetery
 
 251 CEMETERY DOS FRAZERES. 
 
 by no means corresponds to the beauty of the 
 monuments by which it is surrounded } but the 
 design] for a new one to be built near the mid- 
 dip, of the ground has been approved of by the 
 municipal authorities under whose charge the 
 cemetery is placed. A few years ago a portion of 
 ground connected with this cemetery was pur- 
 chased by the duke of Palmella for the interment 
 of members of his family. A spacious mortuary 
 chapel and extensive vaults have been erected on 
 it at the expense of the same nobleman. The 
 taste and judgment displayed in this structure 
 ar much and deservedly admired.
 
 EXCURSIONS, &c; 
 
 Excursion to Cintra. Bemfica. Que/wa. Ra- 
 malhuo. Cintra. Queen'' s palace. The Pe- 
 ncr. Moorish Castle. Cork convent. Collars*. 
 Pedro, (PAlvidrar. Monserrat, Penha Ver- 
 de. Sitiais. Mafra . 
 
 u Cintra, e doce o gemer das tuas agoas, 
 
 E' solemne o cantar de tuas mattas, 
 
 E geme um hymno antigo 
 
 Como a mando que se ouve em tuas serras." 
 
 Granda. 
 
 The first question usually put to a traveller 
 on his return from Lisbon is u Did you pay a 
 visit to Cintra ?" 
 
 There are three ways of getting to this' far- 
 famed spot: on horseback, in a hackney coach, 
 or by the omnibus. If there is no question of 
 ladies we would recommend the first, as being 
 more independent, and affording better oppor- 
 tunities of seeing the country. In the omnibus 
 the ride is dull and monotonous :, and a Portu- 
 guese hackney coach is a vehicle of such hor- 
 rid construction that we cannot recommend it 
 to any one who values comfort, convenience or 
 limbs. Cintra is about sixteen miles west of 
 Lisbon. The road to it has of late years been
 
 much improved and is macadamised through its 
 whole extent. 
 
 The first village we come to after leaving Lis- 
 bon is the long and straggling one of Bemfica. 
 The object most likely to engage the traveller's 
 attention as he passes along are the windmills 
 playing on the neighbouring heights, an occasi- 
 onal grove of orange trees, the turreted line of 
 the aqueduct, and the hedge rows formed by the 
 aloe and Indian fig. Bemfica is the residence 
 of the Infanta Donna Izabel Maria, aunt of the 
 present jjueen, and formerly Regent before tha 
 return of her brother Don Miguel from Vienna. 
 Her splendid palace and quinta lie on the left 
 at a short distance from the high road. It con- 
 tains a collection of natural curiosities, and se- 
 veral rare botanical specimens, two magnificent 
 cedars, two beautiful American pepper trees,- 
 two Salisburies of Japan, a grove of Magno- 
 lias, &c. 
 
 In the neighbourhood stands a Dominican con 
 vent and church. The convent has been sold, 
 and converted into a manufactory, the church is 
 still used for Religious worship, and contains the 
 remains of the celebrated Don John de Castro 
 viceroy of the Indies, and those of John das Re- 
 grag, an ancient lawyer and statesman in the
 
 PALACE OF QUELUZ. 251 
 
 time of Don John I. through whose influence 
 that monarch obtained the crown in the Cortes 
 of Coimbra,to the prejudice of his niece Donna 
 Beatrix. The chapel of the Castros contains 
 several costly marble monuments of which the 
 most remarkable are those of the great viceroy, 
 and his son Alvaro. The image of the Blessed 
 Virgin that stands in this cburch is the identi- 
 cal one that was taken from the walls of Tunis 
 when they were battered by the Portuguese 
 squadron that was sent to the succour of Char- 
 les V. under the command of the infante Don 
 Luiz. 
 
 Leaving Bemfica and gaining the top of the 
 ascent which rejoices in the name of Porcalhota 
 we soon come in sight of the Iloyal palace of 
 dueluz, which stands at about half a mile's dis- 
 tance from the road on the left. It forms part 
 of the personal property of the Royal family, 
 which was designated by the name of the Infan- 
 tado. It was a favorite residence of Don John 
 VI. and also of Don Miguel, who beautified and 
 improved it. It has also acquired some celebri- 
 ty from the death of Don Pedro having taken 
 place within its walls. The bed is still shown 
 on which he expired. It stands in the apart- 
 ment styled Don Quixote's, from the represen-
 
 255 CINTRA ROAD. 
 
 tation of that worthy knight's adventures which 
 are depicted on the ceiling. 
 
 The palace is an irregular building, its various 
 parts having been constructed at different^pe- 
 riods. The audience room is a spacious apart- 
 ment^ the saloon known by the appellation of 
 the Tallias( vases) is remakable for the rich paint- 
 ing of its roof, and formerly contained a num- 
 ber of immense china vases from which it derives 
 its name. In a private oratory there is a beau- 
 tiful Doric column, composed of one entire piece 
 of agate, taken from the excavations of Hercu- 
 laneum, and sent as a present by Pope Leo XII. 
 to Don Miguel. The gardens and pleasure- 
 grounds occupy a large space : they contain se- 
 veral ponds, jet-d'eaux, statues, hothouses, and 
 wardens for game, with some rare and beauti- 
 ful specimens of trees and plants. 
 
 From dueluz to Cintra, half the road lies over 
 an extensive heath, in which there is nothing to 
 divert the traveller's attention from the magni- 
 ficent scene which expands before him. Theele^ 
 vated mass of rocks which seen in the blue dis- 
 tance, presented only a smooth undulating out- 
 line, .display as he approaches the 
 "Horrid crags by toppling convent crowned, 
 The cork trees hoar that clothe the shaggy steep.
 
 TALACE CF RAMAIKAO, 
 
 Tha mountain's top by scorching skies em- 
 browned, 
 
 The sunken glen whose sunless shrubs must 
 weep." 
 
 Not unfrequently a zone of clouds is seen 
 hanging about the middle of the mountain, while 
 its loftiest peaks are glittering in brillant sun- 
 shine ; and at nightfall the rays of the sun lin- 
 ger on these summits long after it has set for the 
 plain below. The termination of the heath 
 brings us to another royal residence, the palace 
 and quinta of Ramalhao. This estate was the 
 private property of Donna Carlotta Joachi- 
 na, wife of Don John VI., and great grand- 
 mother of her present majesty. Previous to the 
 year 1834, it possessed many valuable paintings, 
 rich furniture, and curiosities. Since the re- 
 moval of these, it offers no other attraction than 
 what can be afforded by a succession of spacious 
 and empty saloons, and neglected and delapidated 
 pleasure-grounds. 
 
 The village at the foot of the rock, on the 
 eastern side, is denominated Sao Pedro, and is 
 remarkable for the beautiful quinta and plea- 
 sure-grounds belonging to the 'marquis of Vian- 
 na. It is here that the visitor, as he turns the 
 edge of the mountain and descends towards the
 
 257 C1NTRA. 
 
 town of Cintra, which lies north of the rock, 
 is gratified with the first magnificent burst of 
 scenery. 
 
 "Lo! Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes 
 ID variegated maze of mount and glen. 
 Ah me! what hand can pencil guide or pen 
 To follow half on which the eye dilates, 
 Through views more dazzling unto mortal ken, 
 Than those whereof such things the bard relates, 
 Who, to the awe-struck world, unlocked Ely- 
 sium's gates." 
 
 The town of Cintra has gomething peculiar 
 in the position and appearance of its buildings, 
 elevated above each other, and here and there 
 perched like birds' nests in the rock, and dis- 
 playing in striking contrast with the mountain 
 on which they stand the littleness of the works 
 of man compared with those of the Creator. 
 
 It is a common remark that there is but one 
 step between the sublime and the ridiculous^ and 
 this the reader will believe to be verified when 
 after all the magnificent descriptions he has heard 
 and read of this romantic spot, he learns that 
 the most striking objects that the town presents 
 when seen at a distance, are two large kitchen 
 chimneys, Every one who has visited the place
 
 QUEENS PALACE. 
 
 \vill immediately know that we allude to the 
 large conical chimneys of the royal palace, which 
 rise conspicuous in every view of the town, and 
 find a place in the descriptions of all tourists 
 from Murphy to Prince Lichnowski. To this pa- 
 lace, after the traveller has rested from the fa- 
 tigue of his ride from Lisbon, we will if he please 
 conduct him. Permission to see it in the ab- 
 sence of the royal family may be obtained from 
 the resident superintendent, the Almochaiife, a 
 name of Arabic derivation and which properly 
 means a Tax-gatherer. The building which is 
 irregular, is a strange compound of Moorish and 
 Christian architecture. The ornaments of the 
 windows are Arabesque and represent interlaced 
 branches of trees, without leaves. In each win- 
 dow there are slender columns of granite sup- 
 porting arches which are composed of single 
 pieces of stone. Every thing within the palace 
 corresponds to the anachronisms of the exterior. 
 Historical reminiscences of widely distant events 
 meet the eye in almost every apartment The 
 numerous fountains, reservoirs, and jeld'eauxin 
 every part of the building, the prevailing style 
 of the architecture, and the very names by which 
 many of the apartments are still known, prove 
 it to have been of Moorish origin, probably the
 
 QUEEN'S PALACE. 
 
 Alhambra of the kings of Lisbon. John I. re- 
 paired and adapted it- for his own residence. 
 The saloon of the magpies, Sola das pegas, was 
 painted either by his orders or that of his queen 
 Pbilippa of Lancaster. It is a large room the 
 frieze and ceiling of which are painted all over 
 with magpies, each bird holding in its beak a 
 .ticket or card on which are inscribed the WOK'S 
 "For 6em," litterally "for good, "but implying 
 in English the sense of u noevil" or a noharm." 
 This ii por bein 1 ^ was the motto or device of 
 John I., and the expression and incident that 
 gave rise to it strongly reminds us of the Honi 
 soil qui mal y pense of our Edward III. On 
 a certain occasion the monarch was detected by 
 liis queen in the act of bestowing a very questi- 
 onable mark of attention on one of her maids of 
 honour. As his eye met the dagger looks of his 
 English consort, he felt the full extent of his 
 indiscretion, yet unconscious of any evil inten- 
 tion in what he had done, he condescended to 
 apologize by the memorable words, "Par 6em" 
 In order to give more weight aud publicity to 
 this declaration of his innocence, he caused the 
 ceiling of the apartment to be painted as above 
 described. Another version of the story is, that 
 certain gossipping tongues of the palace having
 
 QUEEN'S PALACE. 860 
 
 given publicity to tlie affair, he determined to 
 chastise their malevolent loquacity by imaging 
 them under the figure of the chattering pie. 
 
 The saloon of the escutcheons ti Sala c?a*ar- 
 mas" was the work of king Emmanuel. This 
 apartment has a circular roof and stands on the 
 second floor. On the ceiling in the centre are 
 the royal arms of Portugal, and immediately 
 round these are painted the escutcheons of the 
 five sons and two daughters of king Emmanuel. 
 The crset of the ceiling is entirely covered with 
 the coats of arms of the Portuguese nobility, 
 each shield hanging from a stag's head. 
 
 Tbe escutcheons, which are seventy four in 
 number, are depicted in two concentric circles, 
 so that precedence is given to none. Two of the 
 shields have been erased those of the families 
 of Aveiro and Tavora,who were supposed to 
 have been implicated in the attempt made on 
 the life of Joseph I. On the frieze under the cor- 
 nice the following words are inscribed in gold 
 letters 
 
 Pois com esforcos e leaes 
 Servigos forao ganbados 
 Com estes e outros taes 
 Devem de scr conservadoi. 
 L L f
 
 361 QUEEN'S PALACE. 
 
 The literal translation is as follows- 
 Whereas with exertions and loyal 
 Services they were earned, 
 With these and other such 
 They ought to be preserved. 
 In another part of the palace the room is 
 pointed out in which the unfortunate Sebastian 
 held his last audience before he undertook his ill- 
 fated African expedition, and the chair of state is 
 still shown on which the youthful monarch sate 
 on that occasion. Near the chapel the visitor is 
 shown the apartment in which Alphonsus VI. 
 was confined during the last fifteen years of his 
 life. That unhappy prince used to while away 
 the dreary hours of his imprisonment by pacing up 
 and down one side of his chamber, whence he could 
 see the rocky steep that overhangs the town, and 
 from which it is said that one who still remained 
 faithful to the monarch in his misfortunes used 
 daily to make him a signal of recognition. By 
 bis continual walking to and fro in the same 
 spot, the bricks with which the room is paved 
 are worn away on that side. Such was the ri- 
 gour with which the royal prisoner was guarded, 
 that in order to prevent his being recognized on 
 the occasion of his attending at Mass, a small 
 aperture was made over the choir, whence with-
 
 CONVENT OF THE PENA.' S63 
 
 out being seen, he could observe what was going 
 on at the altar. He died on the 12th of Sep- 
 tember 1683. 
 
 Having thus cursorily pointed out to the stran- 
 ger the principal objects of interest in the pa- 
 lace of Cintra, unless he may wish to tarry 
 there to enjoy the delicious coolness of the nu- 
 merous jet-d'eaux which play in every direction 
 around him we will next conduct him through 
 the "topling convent 1 ' as Byron describes it, 
 known by the name of the Pena, which crowns 
 one of the highest points in the vicinity of the 
 town. 
 
 The convent of the Pena, which formerly be- 
 longed to the monks of the Jeronymite convent 
 of Belem, was built by king Emmanuel on th 
 rock, which he so often ascended to see if he could 
 descry the returning fleet of Vasco da Gama, 
 and whence in fact he was the first to discover 
 it. When the monastery was secularised and 
 sold, the Pena fell into the hands of a private 
 gentleman. It was afterwards purchased by his 
 present Majesty in a ruinous condition, and hat 
 by him been changed with great care and tat 
 into a species of feudal castle. The style of its 
 architecture is the modern Norman Gothic, which 
 flourished at the end of the twelfth century. A.
 
 2C5 CONVENT OF THE PENA. 
 
 large tower, several lateral turrets, walls crowned 
 with niched battlements, and an open court en- 
 close the two principal buildings. The whole is 
 Constructed and as it were shut in between very 
 lofty peaks of the rock, and colossal masses of 
 basalt. The monastic character of the interior 
 has been in a great measure preserved or res- 
 tored. The cloister, and chapol exist nearly in 
 the same state as in the time of the monks, ex- 
 cept that a few portions that had fallen have 
 been renewed, and some slight flaws, which ori- 
 ginally existed, have been skilfully filled up. 
 
 In the chapel there is a rich altar-piece of 
 transparent jasper inlaid with alabaster. It is 
 carved in relievos exhibiting some of the stages 
 of the Passion, and is surmounted with niches, in 
 which are groups representing various passages 
 in the life of our Blessed Redeemer, and sur- 
 rounded with festoons of flowers, which are 
 supported by columns of black jasper. Alighted 
 taper held behind the tabernacle, which stands 
 in the centre, shews its transparency. The work 
 is said to have been executed by an Italian ar- 
 tist by order of John III. The apartments have, 
 at the desire of their Majesties, been decorated 
 in a style of great simplicity. 
 
 A broad road in the rock, partly walled and
 
 CONVENT OF THB PlNA* 864 
 
 partly open, conducts after m;my windings to a 
 drawbridge, leading to t!>e principal entrance of 
 the. castle, over which have been sculptured th 
 royal arms of Portugal and Saxony. The Pen a. 
 is certainly a marvellous structun 1 , whether we 
 consider the peculiarity of ils situation or of it* 
 Construction. 
 
 Tin? view descried from th summit of the 
 Peiia is magnificent beyond dct>cription. The 
 deep azure uf the vast Atlantic 1 , spreading far to 
 the west, the scenery .outhifthe Ta^us, with 
 its regular succession of undulating hills, backed 
 by forests c.f pirv-s, and these again by the dim 
 peaks of the Arrahida mountains th>. noble 
 
 fiver itself, 
 
 **Whose breast of waters broadly swells 
 
 B"t\vefn I he hanks that bear >he vine, 1 * 
 the distant hill-, of Monsanto in the direction 
 Lisbon, and t< I he north as far as tho oye catl 
 teach, i\ rxtei^iVe plain varir^atrd with heatk 
 and onllivated tracts int-rsperse'd with qnintac 
 and villages and the solitary pile of Mafra rear- 
 ing lik'' a mountain its enormous mass to the 
 tkiet, form altog^thra panorama, which it would 
 be hard to parallel. 
 
 The top of the mountain immediatt-ly sur- 
 rounding the Pcna is laid but in ihrubberfo, 
 
 M U
 
 f6d MOORISH CASTLE. 
 
 interspersed with ponds, and beds of flowerg, 
 The softness of the rock, \vhich it was often ne- 
 cessary to cut through for the purpose of forming 
 walks, facilitated these improvements, which 
 however could not have been effected without 
 considerable expense and are highly creditable 
 to the royal proprietor. 
 
 From these gardens a path conducts to the 
 Moorish castle. The ruins so termed crown the 
 peak to the west of that on which the Fena 
 stands, and immediately overhang the town 
 of Cintra. They consist of the remains of an- 
 cient walls, constructed over the cavities and 
 along the ridges of the rock. About half way 
 up the steep are ruins said to be the remains 
 of a Moorish mosque. Part of the vaulted roof 
 Las resisted the ravages of time, and on it ves- 
 tiges of stars paintad on an azure ground may 
 still be 1 discerned. Here and there Arabic cha- 
 racters are seen on the walls. In another part 
 of the same inclosure is a quadrangular cist rn, 
 supposed to have been a Moorish bath. It is 
 fifty feet long by seventeen broad : it is built of 
 ttone and has a vaulted roof : the water which it 
 contains is about four feet in depth. It is al- 
 ways transparent, and is of the same height in 
 all seasons of the year.
 
 CORK CONVENT. 
 
 Thflt so copious and unfailing a body of water 
 should be found at this high elevation has been 
 subject of astonishment to all travellers. But 
 a much larger natural repository must'exist IB 
 the serra to supply the numerous fountains which 
 here and there gush from its sides and bate, 
 and which are never known to fail even after 
 the longest droughts. These perennial stream* 
 contribute not a little to tbe amenity of the en- 
 virons by the rich verdure and fertility they oc- 
 casion. The water of Cintra is of the best and 
 purest quality, and so cold, as to form quite 
 contrast with the tepid beveragCj which water- 
 drinkers are condemned to swallow in Lisbon. 
 
 From N. Senhora da Pena a road over a wild 
 and rugged tract conducts to the Cork convent, 
 Convento da Cortiga. This poor monastery, stand* 
 ing in dreary solitude in a recess of the serre, 
 is worthy of its projector, Don Joao de Cas- 
 tro, the pious and pennyless hero, of whom 
 in his dying moments St. Francis Xavier, hit 
 intimate friend, is reported to have said u th 
 Viceroy of India is dying so poor, that he has not 
 wherewith to purchase a fowl." This convent 
 or hermitage consists cf a church, sacristy, chap- 
 ter-house, refectory and about twenty cclli. 
 Theit mioui partmen.ti are partly built ovtr
 
 J6T CORK CONVENT. 
 
 the surfacfr, and partly formed of holes in the 
 rock. They are lined with cork as a means of 
 counteracting the damp:, and from this eircum- 
 itance the convent derives its name. Each cell 
 may be about five feet square^ and the doori 
 are so low, that they cannot be eMtefeed l>y a 
 person of middle stature without stooping } they 
 are proportionally narrow. 
 
 Kvery thing about the place is in perfect keep- 
 ing with the above description. In the time of 
 the good religious, who were Reformed Fran- 
 ciscans, the luxury of a comfortal>le bed wat 
 never known within the precincts of the Cork 
 convent. The bell at the entrant*- was rungbj 
 the aid of a vine-stem instead of a rope. Theseata 
 f the dining room, if the cavern used for that 
 purpose may be so called, ns well as the dining 
 table, were cut out of the solid rock. At a little 
 distance from the building is shown a hole, part- 
 ly covered by an enormous stone, in \\liich a 
 hermit of the name of Honoriun dwelt for th 
 tost sixteen years uf his life. This holy man af- 
 ter the labours of th day, and after spending* 
 good part of the night with the rest of the re- 
 ligious in^inging the praises of God in the church, 
 would retire to this incommodious recess, whera 
 b bud only a few leaves for his couch, and a
 
 CORK CONVENT. 368 
 
 stone for his pillow, and where from the small- 
 ness of the cave it was impossible for him to 
 stretch himself at full length. Yet notwithstand- 
 ing the severity of these and other acts of pe- 
 nance, which the annals of his order recount of 
 him, he lived to the age of ninety five. A sim- 
 ple stone was placed by his brethren in front of 
 the cave. It still exists and bears the following 
 inscription : 
 
 Hie Honorius vitam finivit, 
 Et id?o cum Deo in Coelo revivit. 
 Obiit Anno Domini 1596. 
 To those whose notions rise no higher than 
 the matter which surrounds them, and who 
 know no higher pleasure than the gratification 
 of those SPIISOS which they have in common with 
 the brute, the conduct of such men as Honorius 
 may seem littla better than insanity or dri- 
 velling enthusiasm. But such folly and such en- 
 thusiasm find their complete justification in Him, 
 who bore the cross, spent his nights in prayer, 
 and fasted forty days in the desert. Compare 
 the " Blessed are they that mourn, for they shall 
 be comforted' 1 '' with the sneer of Lord Byron 
 who wrote : 
 
 "Deep in yon cave Honorius long did dwell, 
 In hope to merit heaven by making earth a hell ." 
 M
 
 COLLARES. 
 
 The sensualist poet and the mortified monk 
 have gone to their long home : Reader, whose 
 chance would you prefer ? 
 
 From the Cork convent to the west, the road 
 continues for some distance to wind among the 
 barren rocks. The mean height of the moun- 
 tains of Cintra is about 1829 feet above the level 
 of the sea. The greater part of the Serra is com- 
 posed of granite of various consistency, the 
 grains being sometimes large and sometimes 
 small, occasionally very hard, and in some places 
 BO soft, as to be easily crushed by the fingers. The 
 feltspar j which it contains, is usually of a grey- 
 ish white, the mica is black, and f lie quartz of 
 a dingy white. Mixed with these there are very 
 fine particles of magnetic iron, whieh is also 
 found in pieces several inches thick, on the sum- 
 mits of the mountain. The strata in general do 
 not follow any regular direction ^ which circum- 
 itance, added to the irregular and distorted ap- 
 pearance of the rocks, which arc piled in every 
 variety of position above each other, leaves no 
 doubt but that it must have had a volcanic origin. 
 
 Descending from the mountain, we descry ly- 
 ing at some distance to the north west the town 
 of Collaret, which gives its name to the well 
 known wine so called, A modern Portugueie
 
 COLLARES. 270 
 
 writer begins his account of this place in the 
 following terms. "At a league to the west of 
 the town of Cintra, and at six leagues distance 
 north west from the city of Lisbon, above a fer- 
 tile and verdant valley known by the name of 
 the Varsea, is situated the smiling town of Col- 
 lares, which for the flow of its fountains, ilia 
 melody of the birds, the temperateness of its air, 
 which in the greatest heat of summer feels like 
 that of mild spring, the delicacy of its fruits, and 
 the purity of its waters may justly be called a. 
 paradise on earth." Without subscribing to these 
 enthusiastic commendations, we may safely say 
 that the rich valley of Collares, covered as it it 
 with orange groves and orchards, offers a most 
 delightful object for the eye to dwell on, and 
 beautifully contrasts with the bare and arid moun- 
 tain along the foot of which it extends. The town 
 itself, which is small and straggling, ha* little 
 to recommend it. Several Roman inscriptions 
 have been found in its neighbourhood, most of 
 which may be seen transcribed in the work abova 
 quoted, written by tha Viscount Jurumenha. At 
 the extremity of the valley the various stream- 
 lets unite, and form a species of lake, on which 
 is a pleasure boat, and where parties from Cin- 
 tra often meet for purposes of amuioinent. A
 
 271 PEDRA D'ALVIDUAR; 
 
 mall rivulet winds its way from this spot to 
 the ocean. Formerly when it was a navigable 
 river, the fruit that fell from the trees overhang- 
 ing its banks was carried down the stream, and 
 gave to the beach the name by which it is still 
 known, Praia das Afajofs, Apple beach. 
 
 Above the beach, about a league from Colla- 
 res, there is a rock or headland rising to a per- 
 pendicular height of about two hundred feet } it 
 is known by the name of Pedra d'Alvidrar. At 
 certain points the waves of the Atlantic ocean, 
 dash against its base, and have undermined it to 
 a considerable extent, as may be seen at some 
 distance from the edge of the precipice where 
 there is a circular hole or chasm, at the bottom 
 of which the sea is visible, and by its incessant 
 chafing strikes terror into the stoutest heart 
 when viewed from above. At the highest point 
 of tho rock immediately over the ocean, a hor- 
 rifying feat is performed by persons who inha- 
 bit the neighbourhood. Without any assistance 
 or support but their hands and feet they descend 
 the perpendicular rock, from the summit to the 
 water's edge, and return in the same manner. 
 The least slip or the giving way of n piece of 
 rock must inevitably plunge them on certain 
 destruction, and yet they make no difficulty in
 
 MONSERRAT. 
 
 venturing down the steep, and in the hopes of 
 a few vintens from the visitors two or three 
 will descend one after the other. Sometimes 
 fishermen, merely for their own convenience, will 
 ascend the dangerous steep, laden with a basket 
 of fish. 
 
 There are two ways of returning to Cintra 
 from Collares through the valley, or by the road 
 that runs along the side of the mountain. The 
 latter, besides being more commodious, affords 
 a better opportunity of seeing the rich luxuriant 
 gardens which extend below. After passing se- 
 veral country residences, remarkable for the pic- 
 turesque beauty of their situations, we come to 
 Monserrat. The quinta so named stands on an 
 eminence that juts out from the serra,and pre- 
 sents one of the most beautiful prospects which 
 even Cintra, rich as it is in varied and charming 
 scenery, can offer. It was selected by tbe cele- 
 brated Mr. Beckford, whose refined taste for 
 the beautiful no one will dispute, and was de- 
 corated by him with that lavish profusion which 
 here as elsewhere has signalized his name. At 
 the extremity of an avenue of trees, over the 
 point of the eminence, is to be seen his delapi- 
 dated chateau, which has fallen like a flower 
 blasted in the pride of its opening bloom. The 
 
 N N
 
 PENIIA VERDE. 
 
 walla are every'where scrawled over with the) 
 names of visitors of all ages, nations, sexes and 
 conditions. On the declivity of the hill just be- 
 low the mansion an artificial cascade was formed 
 at an enormous expense, which like the rest 
 of the ruins only tells of bygone splendour, and 
 of the capricious taste of its former wealthy pro- 
 prietor. 
 
 Returning to the high road we come, at no 
 great distance, to a quinta situated similarly to 
 the one we have just quitted, and connected with 
 the fame of a person of less wealth, but of greater 
 renown than Mr. Beckford, the Villa and grounds 
 of Penha Verde, once the property of Don John 
 de Castro, and still held by his descendants. 
 This renowned and disinterested hero, who 
 make.s so great a figure in Portuguese history, 
 chose this spot as his favorite retreat after his 
 various adventures of peril and glory in two 
 quarters of the globe. After the memorable siege 
 of Diu, the only reward he asked from his so- 
 vereign was, that the rock on which stood six 
 trees should be annexed to his quinta. It is still 
 known by the name of u Monte tZas^/vtjaro*." 
 Here also is shown the chapel built by him in 
 honour of our Lady. At the bottom of the steps 
 which conduct to it, are two stones which he
 
 PENHA VERDE. 
 
 brought with him as trophies from the east, and 
 on which are carved various emblematic figures, 
 and below these a long inscription in the San- 
 scrit in honour of the god Seva. Ascending the 
 flight of steps we come to a terrace on which the 
 chapel is built, and where the visitor, seated 
 under the shade of the cork trees that are coe- 
 val with the building, may enjoy the many 
 beauties of the broad landscape that expands be- 
 fore him. Over the door of the chapel is the 
 following inscription : 
 
 Joannes Castrensis cum viginti annos in duris- 
 rimis bellis in utrdque Mauritania pro Christire- 
 ligione consumpsisset et in Hid clarissimd Tunetis 
 expugnatione interfuisset aique tandem sinus dra- 
 bici littora et omnes Indice oras non modb lus- 
 trasset sed litterarum monumentis mandavisset 
 Christi numini salvus domum rediens Virgin* Ma- 
 trifanum ex voto dicavit anno 1542. 
 
 Over the above inscription on a small pillar is 
 the following : 
 
 Conditum sub imperio 
 Divi Joannis Patris palriw. 
 
 :, ,7 
 
 . iiOl '',' ' ' ''
 
 275 SITIAE6. 
 
 On each side of the door there is also an in- 
 scription. 
 
 On the left 
 
 Salvos ire 
 Susceptis voiis 
 Salvos ire 
 
 1543. 
 On the right 
 
 Soluiis votis 
 Salvos redirc 
 Salvos redire 
 
 It would detain us too long to enter into a de- 
 tailed account of all the natural beauty and his- 
 torical recollections which this romantic spot 
 encloses. The spirit of the great hero, who be- 
 queathed it to his descendants on the express 
 condition of their not deriving pecuniary advan- 
 tages from its cultivation, might be imagined 
 still to wander through its shady and winding 
 paths, and pointing to the religious emblems 
 which every where meet the eye, to utter a re- 
 proach to men of modern times, whose enligh- 
 tened philosophy has taught them to be ashamed 
 to ask God's blessing on their enterprises, or to 
 thank Him for success. 
 
 Before reaching Cintra, after leaving Penha 
 Verde, we come to a spacious edifice belonging
 
 MAFRA. S76 
 
 to the Duke of Terceira, which derives cele- 
 brity from the famous convention between Sir 
 Hew Dalrymple and Junot. In front of this 
 palace is a spacious lawn, where in the summer 
 evenings the elite of Cintra usually take their 
 evening promenade. The place is known by the 
 name of Sitiaes, which is the plural of an ob- 
 solete Portuguese word Siiial, which means a 
 seat or bench probably in allusion to the stone 
 seats that are seen in front of the promenade. 
 
 Mafra is situated at the distance of three 
 leagues from Cintra, and five from Lisbon. The 
 road leading to it sadly needs repair, and nothing 
 can be conceived more uninteresting than the 
 parched and desolate tract over which the weary 
 rider has to plod for four hours before he reaches 
 the colossal structure. The sight and inspection 
 of one of Egypt's Pyramids are scarcely more 
 dearly bought by a " scorching ride over its 
 wastes of sand. Mafra which is a mere vil- 
 lage offers little accomodation to visitors, who 
 would do well to take sufficient provisions with 
 them r as the fare to be found in the estalagen, 
 at which they will have to put up, is very poor 
 and the charges heavy. To the west of the vil- 
 lage, on a spacious rising ground, 681ft. above 
 the level of the sea, towers the immense build- 
 
 N N 2
 
 Q77 MA.FRA. 
 
 ing, which now claims our attention. It will 
 be impossible to convey any idea of its magni- 
 ficence by description. It must be seen to be ful- 
 ly appreciated. But before attempting one, we 
 will briefly give its history and by a statement of 
 the time and labour spent in its erection, enable 
 the reader to form some estimate of the vast sums 
 laid out upon it. There are various accounts 
 given of the origin of Mafra, but the most com- 
 mon one is, that Don John V. anxious to have 
 issue to succeed him in the throne, vowed to 
 erect, on the birth of a son, a monastery on the 
 spot where the poorest priory could be found iu 
 his dominions. On the birth of Don Joseph I. 
 Mafra was selected ^ for on this spot stood a hut 
 in \vhich dwelt twelve religious of the poorest 
 order in Portugal. The plan was drawn up, 
 and having met with the monarch's approval, 
 \as executed by one architect, Joao Frcderico 
 Ludovici, who is said by some to have been a 
 German, though his name would indicate an Ita- 
 lian origin. The foundation stone of the church 
 was laid on the 17th. of Nov. 1717, and this 
 ceremony alone cost the king 00,000 crowns. 
 Thirteen years were spent in its erection, and 
 according to the documents still preserved in 
 Mafra, the average number of workmen daily
 
 MAFUA. 278 
 
 employed during that period was 14,700. The 
 bills from June to October of 1730 shew that no 
 fewer than 45,000 persons were employed during 
 that period, of whom 7,000 were soldiers who re- 
 ceived 150rs,a day in addition to their ordinary 
 pay. Besides this, the king ordered a temporary 
 hospital to be built for the accomodation of the 
 sick workmen, containing eight wards capable 
 of holding 5,350 sick, in addition to two others 
 for 240 convalescents. In five years, ( 1729- 
 1734,) the hospital received 17,097 sick, and its 
 total cost amounted to 91,937,347 Rdis, about 
 23,OOOL. The total cost of this immense fabric 
 has never been fully ascertained. Some have cal- 
 culated it at 19,000,000 of crowns ^ others jnuch 
 less. We should be led to conclude that it must* 
 have been much more if, as tradition says, 
 the chimes of the two belfries alone cost from 
 two to three millions in Antwerp or Liege where 
 they were cast. 
 
 The basilic was consecrated on the 22nd. of 
 Oct. 1730, the king's birth day, with the great- 
 est possible porap and magnificence. The festi- 
 vities lasted eight days^ and so great was the 
 concourse of spectators, that the king having or- 
 dered refreshments to be given from his kitchen 
 to all who applied, nine thousand persons availed
 
 279 MAFRA. 
 
 themselves of his bounty on the single day of 
 the consecration. 
 
 The entire edifice forms an immense paralle- 
 logram, the longest sides of which run from north 
 to south, and are 1,150 feet long, and comprises 
 a cathedral, a monastery and two royal palaces, 
 one on each side of the church. It contains 866 
 rooms and halls, and more than 5,000 doors and 
 gates, two lofty towers each 350 feet high, one 
 very large court, two of moderate size, and six 
 small ones. The front of this imposing pile of 
 buildings which faces the west, is formed by the 
 church and palaces, the church being in the 
 centre, and having an approach formed by a no- 
 ble flight of steps. 
 
 The palace on the north of the church was 
 the king's residence, that on the south the queen's} 
 both are four stories in height, are surmounted by 
 spacious terraces, and terminate in magnificent 
 towers at the extreme angles of the edifice. 
 These towers rise a hundred palms above the 
 level of the terrace. The masonry has been 
 executed in the first style. The walls shelve 
 gradually to their base, where they are twenty 
 palms thick, and are surrounded by parapets 
 sixteen palms high. The roof of the whole build- 
 ing is one vast terrace a hundred and twenty
 
 MAFRA. fi80 
 
 palms from the ground, the only apertures in it 
 are those above the courts already mentioned, 
 and the only objects which rise above its level, 
 are the dome and cupulas of the church and the 
 two lateral towers facing the west. It i said 
 that not fewer than 10,000 men might be re- 
 viewed on this marble plain. 
 
 The two palaces so closely resemble each other 
 in all architectural details, that the description 
 of one will serve for both. Entering into that 
 of the north, the visitor finds himself in an al- 
 most endless series of corridors of an immense 
 length. From these, doors of communication lead 
 to the rooms on each side, which also communi- 
 cate with each other } so that when all the doors 
 are thrown open a magnificent suite of apart- 
 ments is displayed to view. Allegorical or my- 
 thological subjects are painted in fresco on the 
 greater part of the ceilings and walls. The floors 
 are principally formed of different marbles ar- 
 ranged in fanciful patterns, and in many of the 
 rooms there are handsome pillars of the same 
 material. It has been remarked and perhaps 
 not unjustly that amidst this long succession of 
 apartments, there is not one whose size corres- 
 ponds to the vast proportions of the rest of the 
 building. The audience room is still preserved 
 O O
 
 281 , MAFRA. 
 
 in the condition in which it was when Don 
 John VI. inhabited the palace, both previously 
 to the invasion of the French, and after his re- 
 turn from Brazil. It is hung with curtains of 
 blue velvet and damask, and is the only apart- 
 ment by which we are enabled to judge of the 
 effect of the whole, when Mafra was actually 
 the residence of a wealthy and gorgeous court. 
 All the wood of which the doors and windows 
 are constructed was the most valuable that the 
 Brazils could furnish, but it is to be lamented 
 that its beauty has been concealed under a coat- 
 ing of paint. 
 
 The convent is dedicated to St. Anthony, and 
 was held by reformed Franciscans. They were 
 for sometime superseded by Augustinian canons, 
 but were afterwards restored, and continued in 
 the possession of the convent till the supression in 
 1833. It is in the form of a square with an open 
 cloister in the interior, which is laid out as a de- 
 lightful garden, and is beautified and refreshed by 
 a noble fountain and spacious tank in the centre. 
 
 The various entrances into the convent, as 
 well those from without as those from the church 
 or palace, all lead to a spacious corridor which 
 runs, from north to south, the whole length of the 
 building. In it, as seen from the exterior, there
 
 MAFRA. 282 
 
 arc three rows of windows, the first looking to- 
 wards the refectory, the lavatories, and the room 
 known by the name of the De Profun dis : the 
 second, to a row of chambers out of some of 
 which a chapel with seven altars was formed to 
 enable the monks to say their masses earlier in 
 the day : the third which are oval, belong to the 
 chambers and chapel of the novitiate. Before 
 entering it from the south, we pass through a 
 splendid cloister, surrounded by columns sustain- 
 ing an arcade, above which runs a balustraded 
 varanda. Entering from the north, we cross a 
 similar cloister and pass the beautiful chapel "Jo 
 Campo Santo, 1 ' so called because the friars were 
 here buried } and in it the funeral obsequies 
 were performed, It is very richly and appro- 
 priately decorated : its altar is of white marble, 
 supported by black and chrystalline columns of 
 the same material. The chapel is 120 palms 
 long and 49 broad. Each of these cloisters has 
 two corridors, along which the community 
 walked when making public processions round 
 the church. 
 
 This famous corridor is 848 palms long and 
 52 broad. From it splendid doorways and por- 
 ticoes lead to study rooms and other public apart- 
 ments ^ that called Casa dot Ados is the moit
 
 283 MAFRA. 
 
 spacious and elegant. It is 116 palms long and 
 42 broad. Here were held the scholastic theses j 
 and certainly the arrangements are excellently 
 adapted for the display of pomp and solemnity. 
 At one end of it is a pulpit below a large tablet 
 of white marble bearing a Latin inscription, and 
 crowned by a vase of blue stone holding yellow 
 and white flowers. There wer?. also two large 
 tribunes where the king and court were wont 
 to attend the wordy wars of the learned comba- 
 tants. It possesses also three good paintings 
 brought from Rome, and originally placed in tho 
 church. 
 
 One of the next rooms is the lavatory, an oc- 
 tagonal apartment with a vaulted roof, surround- 
 ed by noble arches, and fitted up with marble 
 fountains and basins of chaste and elegant finish. 
 From it we pass through another, equally spaci- 
 ous and elegant, to the refectory, which is de- 
 servedly celebrated for its noble proportions, its 
 light and airy character and the simplicity of its 
 decorations. Above the head table is a large 
 and splendid painting of the Last Supper, the 
 frame of which is of brilliant blue marble. The 
 tables are thirty six, each 20 palms in length 
 and 3 in breadth the seats around them are of
 
 MAFR.V. 684 
 
 Brazil wood, the backs being of polished marble 
 of a yellow colour. 
 
 It contains about three hundred cells, all 
 roomy and commodious chambers. The infir- 
 mary is divided into separate partitions, each par- 
 tition containing a porcelain figure of our Blessed 
 Lady and the divine Babe, or the representation 
 of some mystery of faith. At one end is a hand- 
 lome chapel, with galleries corresponding to the 
 different floors, so that invalids might attend to 
 the duties and ministrations of religion without 
 inconvenience or exposure to draughts in the 
 passages. * 
 
 The kitchens are two in number; they are of 
 large dimensions, and are well supplied with every 
 convenience. 
 
 We must not forget to remind the visitor of 
 the remarkably fine echo which is to be met 
 with in the chapter room, a handsome and oval- 
 shaped apartment. It is said to be much su- 
 perior to thd one at St. Paul's. 
 
 Perhaps the most pleasing and most magni- 
 ficent room is the library. It is 300 feet in 
 length, broad and high in proportion and fitted up 
 and arranged in the brst possible manner for 
 convenience. The pavement is of red and white 
 marble, and the arched roof beautifully stuccoed. 
 It is well lighted, has several richly ornamented 
 O O 2
 
 86 MAFIU. 
 
 doorways, and four of the windows open upon 
 balconies, A light species of gallery or parapet 
 runs round the interior, at an elevation of fif- 
 teen and a half palms above the pavement. The 
 cases are formed of wood of excellent quality. 
 The books they contain consist of choice works 
 on medicine, philosophy, theology, and other 
 scientific subjects. There are also some well pre- 
 served and richly illuminated copies of the first 
 editions of the Greek and Roman classics. The 
 library of Mafraisat least one third larger than 
 that of Alcobaga, and contains 30,000 volumes, 
 Beckford says, we know not on what authority, 
 60,000. 
 
 ' Attached to the convent is a walled enclosure, 
 containing a well of pure and delicious water, 
 an ample tank, a ball court, a kitchen garden, 
 ornamented with twenty six statues, and two 
 artificial lakes, and pleasingly diversified with 
 groves, shrubberies and groups of fruit trees, 
 interspersed with shady walks, lined with close- 
 set hedges of box. Behind this extends the roy- 
 al park, the wall of which is three leagues in 
 circumference and 16 palms high. Along the 
 inside of this wall runs a spacious road. The park 
 was formerly well stocked with deer of vari- 
 ous kinds, wild boars, hares, rabbits , patridges,
 
 M1FRA. $86 
 
 and almost every other species of game that 
 is found in the country. 
 
 The belfry and clocks are not among the least 
 curious portion of this stupendous building. 
 The machinery of the clocks fills a good sized 
 room, and the complicated works have more the 
 appearance of a ponderous steam engine than of 
 a portion of a religious edifice. There are two 
 immense cylinders covered with spikes, which 
 by complicated machinery act upon the belli, 
 and produce the beautiful chimes for which they 
 are deservedly celebrated. The bells were cast 
 at Antwerp or Liege, and for their almost in- 
 credible weight of metal 'and richness of tone, 
 are perhaps unrivalled. It is computed that the 
 entire weight of metal in each tower cannot be 
 less than 207 tons and 3 cwt. la the southern 
 tower the bands of the clock mark the time in 
 the common way : those in the north in the Ro- 
 man method that is with only six divisions on 
 the circumference of its face. Before the clock 
 strikes, the bells ring forth a pleasing chime, 
 and they can be made to play any of the tunee 
 at pleasure 
 
 We now descend to the church, which, asto- 
 nishing as are the splendour and magnificence 
 of the 'palaces and convent, far urpasiee al Ithat
 
 Q87 MAFRA. 
 
 we have hitherto described. This, as well as 
 that of the Estrella described at p. 249, is |n 
 imitation in miniature of St. Peter's at Rome. 
 Its facade looks to the west, and is adorned 
 with rows of statues of the saints, sculptured in 
 white marble, and finely executed. It ii 
 entirely built of marble of the purest hues, 
 carved into an almost endless variety of designs. 
 The first coup d'oeil of its interior Ts very im- 
 posing. The high altar adorned with two ma- 
 jestic columns of reddish variegated marble, each 
 a single block about 30 feet in height, imme- 
 diately fixes the eye. Trevisani painted the altar- 
 piece. It reprfsents St. Anthony in the extacy 
 of beholding the Infant Jesus descending into his 
 cell amidst an effulgence of glory. *' Never did 
 I behold," says the author of Vashek, who vi- 
 sited Mafra in 1787, u an assemblage of such 
 beautiful marble, as. gleamed above, below, and 
 around us. The collateral chapels, which are 
 six in number, are each enriched with finely 
 finished bassi relievi, and stately portals of black 
 and yellow marble, richly veined, and so highly 
 polished as to reflect objects like a mirror. The 
 pavement, the vaulted ceiling, the dome, and even 
 the topmost lantern, is encrusted with the same 
 cosily and durable material. Rosei of white
 
 MATRA. 586 
 
 marble and wreaths of palm branches, most ex- 
 quisitely sculptured, enrich every part of the 
 edifice. I never saw Corinthian capitals better 
 modelled, or executed with raore precision and 
 sharpness than those of the columns which sup- 
 port the nave. Having satisfied our curiosity 
 by examining the ornaments of the altar, wa 
 passed through a long covered gallery to the sa- 
 cristy, a magnificent vaulted hall, panelled with 
 some beautiful varieties of alabaster and por- 
 phyry, and carpeted, as well as a chapel adjoin- 
 ing it, in a style of the utmost magnificence. 
 We traversed several more halls and chapels, 
 adorned with equal splendour, till we were fa- 
 tigued and bewildered like knights errant in the 
 mazes of an enchanted palace." 
 
 Such is Mr.Beck ford's account of his impre- 
 sion of the church, seen at the time that it wa 
 in tho zenith of its splendour. 
 
 Its length from the entrance of the church to 
 the doorway is 283 palms, and the middle of 
 the body of the nave 57 and a half. Its total 
 breadth, including the collateral chapels, is 14* 
 palms. Its six organs are most beautiful in 
 point of decoration; and when in the hands of 
 the friars, their tones corresponded to their 
 splendour. From the sie of Iho majtic dome 
 P P
 
 the Portuguese have drawn a proverb to desig- 
 nate any vast and magnificent work. It stands 
 over the transept, and from the broad smooth 
 terrace, which forms the roof of the grand edi- 
 fice proudly rises like a beautiful temple from 
 the spacious walks of a royal garden. Its height 
 above the pediment of the portico is 300 palms. 
 It is infinitely superior in point of design to the 
 rest of the edifice, and may certainly be rec- 
 Jconed among the lightest and bt'&t proportioned 
 in Eurspe. The visistor may if he pleaie mount 
 to its summit, and from the balustrade survey 
 the wide prospect below. It is however to be 
 regretted that it does not command any magni- 
 ficent expanse of scenery to correspond wilh the 
 grandeur of the edifice, and the lofty elevation 
 of its position. Commencing with the roofs 
 of an insignificant village, the eye ranges over 
 the dull tops of sandy acclivities, backed by the 
 blue expanse of the Atlantic. On the left the 
 view is terminated by the craggy mountains of 
 Cintra , the right, by a forest of pines in the 
 direction of the Viscount of Ponte de Lima's 
 extensive gardens. It may perhaps be interest- 
 ing to inform the visitor that its arch is closed 
 by one single stone, hollowed out within and 
 pierced by eight circular windows. The circum-
 
 MiFKA. $90 
 
 ference of this stone is 44 palms, its height 13, it 
 was drawn from the quarries of Cintra by 172 
 oxen; and during its transit forty one mason* 
 were hammering away without any embarrass- 
 ment upon it. It was raised to its present po- 
 sition by four cranes, worked by 160 men in 
 the space of two hours. 
 
 In conclusion we may characterise the church 
 of Mafra, as being at once rich and simple. Its 
 design was grand and its execution uniformly 
 beautiful. As an architectural production it has 
 been declared by an able critic to be faultless. 
 neither vitiated by absurd anachronisms nor 
 by a mixture of styles, and if the rash hand of 
 meddling interference can be restrained from 
 touching it, it will fall a it stands in it primi- 
 tive beauty.
 
 tOl . 1XCVR9ION, &C. 
 
 Excursion to the mouth of the river. Quinta 
 f>fthe Duke of CadavalCachias. Suppressed 
 eonvents. Pa$o oT Arcos. Oeiras. Carcavel- 
 lot.Cascaes. St. Julianas. Cachopos.Bugio. 
 Trafaria. Costa. Caparica. Almada. 
 Cacilhat. 
 
 "Salut vaste horizon que 1'ocean termine ! 
 Rivagc au sable d'or, ou 1 flot vtent mourir! 
 Rochers de P Occident qu'un cicl de f-u domine ! 
 OodoyautsforetsqiTuu loin j'entends fremir." 
 
 Bord du Tage. 
 
 Having in a former chapter of this work con- 
 ducted the stranger to Belem, we will commence 
 our present excursion from that place. The 
 road follows the direction of the river, which is 
 visible from it nearly through its whole extent. 
 The first place deserving notice, after" quitting 
 Belem Castle and the Sand-fort contiguous, if 
 the quinta and villa of the duke of Cadaval, 
 which Hat iramodutulv en thu aide of the road.
 
 CACHUS. &9 
 
 The family of this nobleman, as well as that of 
 the duke of Lafoens, are of the blood royal and 
 rank the first among the Portuguese nobility. 
 These dukos are privileged to wear their bats 
 in presence of the sovereign. The quinta of 
 which we are speaking possesses shady walks, 
 and a large basin of water, no despicable recom- 
 mendation in a Portuguese climate. 
 
 About a league further on, stands the royal 
 palace of Cachias. This residence, like the pre- 
 ceding, has flower gardens, shady walks, and 
 tanks of water: but its principal recommenda- 
 tion, as indeed is that of all the residences and 
 quintas which line the road, is the convenience 
 afforded for bathing in the river. Comparative- 
 ly deserted during the rest of the year, they 
 generally see assembled, for this purpose all the 
 rank and fashion of Lisbon in the autumn months. 
 
 Here too, as in every part of this once religi- 
 ous land, the traveller is painfully struck with 
 thedesrrted ruins of the sanctuaries of religion. 
 St. Joze de Ribamar, St. Catharine's, and though 
 last not least the beautiful hermitage of the SODS 
 of St. Bruno, known in Portugal by the name 
 of Cartuxo. The writer of the present pages 
 had visited this convent in the days of its pVos- 
 perity,when its holy inmates were the admira- 
 p P 2
 
 93 C A CHI AS. 
 
 tion as well as the support end consolation of 
 the country around. With what feelings of 
 sadness did he hi hold on a recent occasion the 
 lonely remains of the venerable pile. Instead of 
 the monks singing the praises of the Creator in 
 harmonious psalmody, nothing was heard hut 
 the scream of tin: foul bird of night, or the flut- 
 tering of bats that had nestled on the capital of 
 one of the altar pillars. The cloistered walls 
 were stripped of their noble and appropriate 
 paintings. The pavement was here and there 
 torn up and demolished, openings had been made 
 in the walls as if for passages, and left without 
 posts or lintels. Some of the cells had been fit- 
 ted up as temporary lodgings for bathers ^ and 
 that nothing might be wanting to complete the 
 infamy of the sacrilegious work, ridicule wai 
 sup-Tedded to the desecration, and a paper 
 indicating property to be 1 t was fixed on the 
 principal door of the house of God. The moral 
 and intellectual state of the poor neighbourhood 
 is a sad but true commentary on this heartiest 
 Vandalism. Left without the instructions and 
 example of the good fathers, the rustic popula- 
 tion has wilfully retrograded in knowledge as 
 well as morality. Ignorance and contempt for 
 authority are beginning to produce their natural
 
 OJC1RAI. 
 
 effects among them iu the abandonment of all 
 religious and social duties. Nor are these alarm- 
 ing results merely confined to the spot of which 
 we are speaking, the destruction of religiouc 
 foundations, instead of increasing the wealth or 
 aiding the enlightenment of the people, as wa* 
 absurdly predicted, has produced nothing but 
 misery and ignorance with all its debasing in- 
 fluences through this once happy and contented 
 land. 
 
 At some distance further on, we come to the 
 straggling fishing town of Pago d'Arcos. It con- 
 tains a few good houses, and reckons about 
 1150 inhabitants. In the time of the minister 
 Fombal a dock or basin was here constructed 
 for sheltering ships and small craft in stormy 
 weather : but its demarkations are now scarcely 
 dUcernable owing to the supine negligence of 
 those who ought to have kept it in repair. 
 
 From this place the road diverge* a little 
 from the river, and conducts at the distance of a 
 mile to the town ofOeiras. The greatest and al- 
 most the only object of attraction in this place 
 is the famous palace and quinta of the marquis 
 of Pombal. The prodigious wealth of the great 
 minister known by that name enabled him to 
 form on Urn spot a demesne unequalled by that
 
 OE1RA3. 
 
 of any of the Portuguese nobility, at least in 
 the neighbourhood of the capital. The quinta 
 itself, which is divided by the high road into 
 two sections, consists of orchards, orange groves 
 and vineyards : and is intersected by a canal 
 which was inlendrd to be carried as far as the 
 neighbourhood of Cintra, and communicated with 
 the river. 
 
 At the back of the quinta are extensive and 
 fertile corn lands forming part of the estate. In 
 the mansion, which contains many spacious and 
 magnificent apartments, there 'are to be seen se- 
 veral excellent paintings, and statues by eminent 
 artists. It was here king Joseph I. was for 
 ome time the guest of his favorite minister, and 
 the inkstand is still shewn from which he used 
 to sign his despatches on that occasion. But the 
 principal objects of curiosity in the place, if we 
 except perhaps the group, the work of the chisel 
 of Carrara, are the unrivalled cellar, press-room 
 and granary. The first is intersected by a dou- 
 ble arcade of fifteen arches. It contains a num- 
 ber of wine tuns, all formed of Brazil wood, and 
 most of them capable of holding thirty pipes. 
 At one extremity of the cellar is the press-room 
 containing seven large wine presses from which 
 the wine was conducted by a channel to the tous
 
 PORT ST. JULIAN; 296 
 
 intended for its reception. Some of the tuns 
 have been recently sold, and those that remain 
 are generally empty. Over the cellar is the 
 granary formed on a similarly magnificent scale. 
 Leave for admission to the premises, the inspec- 
 tion of which will amply repay a visit, may 
 easily be obtained by application to the present 
 noble proprietor. 
 
 The lands which stretch to the west of the 
 estate of the marquis of Pombal are known by 
 the name of Carcavellos, and produce the famous 
 white sweet wine so called. 
 
 If the visitor have time and be so disposed, 
 he may push on as far as Cascaes, which is at 
 a good league's distance from Oeiras. It is on 
 the sea shore and gives name to the bay on 
 which it stands. It has a bar and is defended 
 by two fortifications. Near it on the extreme 
 point of the rock stands a light-house. The po- 
 pulation of Cascaes is upwards of two thousand. 
 A more interesting object, and nearer Oeiras 
 is the fortress or tower of St. Julian's. 
 
 The fort of St. Julian was built by Philip 
 the second. It completely commands the en- 
 trance of the river,' and, if well manned and 
 mounted would effectually exclude a hostile fleet. 
 Jt is responded to from the opposite side of the 
 Q Q
 
 97 BUGIO FORT. 
 
 river by the Bugio fort, the lower guns of which 
 are but little above the high water mark. Both 
 fortifications have bomb-proof quarters for sol- 
 diers, and are formidable, less perhaps from their 
 strength or construction, than from the peculiar 
 formation of the bar of the river which admits 
 of only two entrances, one to the north, imme- 
 diately under the guns of St. Julian's, which is 
 deep and narrow, the other on the south, which 
 is about 350 yards broad, and _ninc fathoms 
 deep. 
 
 Between the two channels on the side of the 
 ocean are the dangerous rocks known by the 
 name of the Cachopos, which lie immediately 
 under the surface of the water, and in calm 
 weather may easily be distinguished by the 
 breakers that incessantly foam above them. The 
 fort of St. Julian like that of the Bugio is built 
 on a solid rock. The former, besides a battery 
 on the side of the river, has on the land side a 
 curtain flanked by two bastions, with a foss 
 and covered way. Its great defect in a milita- 
 ry point of view is said to be its being com- 
 manded by higher ground in its immediate neigh- 
 bourhood. The Bugio fort is of a circular form, 
 and is entirely surrounded by water except at 
 low tide, when it may be approached from the
 
 COSTA. 298 
 
 long neck of sand that forms for some distance 
 the south bank of the river. It has on it a light- 
 house with a brilliant revolving light. Return- 
 ing to Lisbon from the Bugio fort along the 
 south bank of the Tagus we first come to the 
 village or town of Trafaria, which is small, 
 and inhabited principally by fishermen ^ it is built 
 entirely on the sands, having scarcely a vestige 
 of vegetation, nearer than the heights at the foot 
 of which it stands. The inhabitants derive their 
 support from the sale of fish in the Lisbon mar- 
 ket. 
 
 Another town or village, similarly situated on 
 the sea is the Costa. Here most of the houses are 
 built of rushes, and the place itself cannot be 
 approached except by traversing a long extent of 
 sand. There is a wildness and uncouthness in 
 the inhabitants, characteristic of a very low 
 state of morals and police. Many of its denizens 
 are said to be deserters and runaway felons } 
 their looks do not entirely belie the imputation. 
 The officers of the law seldom approach the spot, 
 and when they do, in search of some notable 
 delinquent, they are accompanied by a military 
 force. Yet notwithstanding this semibarbarous 
 state of the Costa, parties from Lisbon not un- 
 frequently make here a day's excursion, to enjoy
 
 299 COSTA . 
 
 the novelly of seeing the fishermen draw in the 
 net. On these occasions the party pays the ex- 
 pense of the draught. After the fish is caught, 
 it is cooked by the fishermen on the spot, in a 
 manner which it is said the ablest cooks cannot 
 equal. The secret however of the recipe seems 
 to be a long ride, and the sea air: ingredients 
 which of course are not to be had in the kitch- 
 ens of Lisbon. The mess is called a caldeirada. 
 After what we have said of the uncivilized state 
 of these fishermen, it may be a matter of sur- 
 prise that we should be able to point to them 
 as models worthy of imitation in our own fish- 
 eries at home. Yet such is the fact, as far as 
 regards the understanding that exists between 
 masters and men. The nets are the property 
 of a few individuals, who are termed masters. 
 The men are divided into companies each com- 
 pany belonging to a particular net. They are 
 not hired or paid according to any fixed salary } 
 but are entitled to a share in the draught. One 
 portion of the fish is assigned for the expenses 
 of the net, boats, &c. ^ another belongs to the 
 master, and a third is divided among the men. 
 Each man has thus a personal interest in the 
 success of the draught. In time of failure sick- 
 ness, or bad weather, the master is obliged to
 
 CAPARICA. 300 
 
 furnish each man with a certain daily allowance 
 of food, to be deducted on occasions of success 
 and abundance. By this excellent regulation 
 the horrors of famine are avoided in unpropi- 
 tious seasons. 
 
 Leaving the sands, and ascending the hills in 
 direction of Lisbon, we come to a well culti- 
 vated district, consisting principally of vineyards, 
 known by the singular name of Caparica, An- 
 glice, "rich cloak." It extends from Trafaria 
 and the Costa as far as Almada, and Cova d* 
 Piedade. The soil is generally light and well 
 adapted for the growth of the vine, though the 
 quality of the wine produced is in general not 
 of the best, a fact mainly attributed to the 
 want of selection in the plants. In many of the 
 vineyards a large proportion of vines are of 
 an inferior kind called Italia, which produces 
 abundance of fruit, but which is incapable of 
 forming a rich and generous wine. Those pro- 
 prietors, who have excluded [this inferior grape 
 from their grounds, are able to produce wine in 
 this district scarcely inferior to any in the conn- 
 try. 
 
 If the traveller should happen to be in Li- 
 bon in the autumn months, we would by all 
 means advise him to spend a day in Caparica,
 
 301 ALMADA. 
 
 to witness the process of wine-making. The 
 country is at this time all alive with busy vin- 
 tagers, and he will not move far without meeting 
 some of them to remind him of Ovid's personifi- 
 cation of the season, 
 
 u Calcatis sordidus uvis." 
 
 The principal town in the district, which has 
 a judicial court of its own. is Almada. It has 
 a fort overhanging the river, and a breastwork and 
 redoubts on the land side. As the road lies 
 through the middle of the town, we would ad- 
 vise the visitor to make a short digression to an 
 elevated spot on his left to enjoy a magnificent 
 view that is there presented of Lisbon and the 
 Tagus. Although the view from this point if 
 most grand and imposing, we do not remember 
 to have met with it in any collection. 
 
 From Almada the road gradually descends 
 through the village of Cacilhas, to the extreme 
 point whence steamers and passage boats regular- 
 Jy ply to Lisbon, and where the traveller is sure to 
 meet with many an urgent petitioner soliciting 
 his patronage in the shape of a fare for himself 
 and company across the river. 

 
 CAMFO PEQWENO. 302 
 
 Excursion to Odivellas. Campo Pequtno. 
 Campo Grande. Lumiar. Laranjeiras, Odi- 
 vellat. Loures. Cabega de Moniaxique. 
 
 "Nada falta aos jardins de aceio ou pornpa, 
 Cada planta comprio sua promessa. 1 ' 
 
 Bocage. 
 
 What Englishman has not heard of Bambury 
 cakes? and what Portuguese is a stranger to the 
 fame of the marmalade of Odivellas? Odivejlai 
 then shall be our present excursion. Ascending 
 the hill and passing the barrier of San Sebasiiao 
 da Pedreira we are conducted by the road on 
 our right to a small common, known by the 
 name of Campo Pequeno. It is here that 
 the troops are sometimes reviewed on Gain 
 days, and from its proximity to the town it 
 has been often selected as a cricket-ground by 
 the British , who when they can muster in suf- 
 ficient strength, enter on their national sport 
 with considerable spirit, and their example bas 
 been rather awkardly imitated by some Portu- 
 guese gentlemen of the neighbourhood. When 
 an English fleet happens to be stationed in the 
 Tagas, the Campo not unfrequently prcienti a
 
 303 LUM1AR. 
 
 lively and animated appearance, whpn forty or 
 fifty officers and midshipmen may be seen con- 
 tending 
 
 "Who best can urge the flying ball.' 1 
 
 There is another road from Lisbon to this 
 field in the direction of Arroios and Campo de 
 Santa Anna. On this road, at a short distance 
 from Campo Pequeno, is to be seen an ancient 
 inscription designating the spot as that where 
 Saint Elizabeth, queen of Don Denis, effected 
 a reconciliation between that monarch and his 
 son, who was afterwards Alphonsus the fourth, 
 at the moment, when their respective forces 
 drawn up in hostile array were about to join 
 battle. This monumental record has been for- 
 tunately preserved ^ another consisting of a cross, 
 rrected on the spot where the fnther and son 
 first embraced each other in sign of reconcilia- 
 tion, was torn down by the order of certain Ico- 
 noclastic Vandals in 1836. 
 
 Following the macadamised road we come to 
 another open space, called in contradistinction 
 to the one we have just left, Campo Grande. 
 This field is about a mile in length and has a 
 spacious carriage road all round it, with a foot 
 path on each side, shaded by a double row 
 of trees.
 
 LVMIAH. $04 
 
 The demarcation of the spot as well as the 
 plantation of it were effected under the adminis- 
 tration of the Conde de Linhares, in the latter 
 part of the reign of Gtueen Mary I. An annual 
 fair, which lasts eight or fifteen days, is held 
 here, and commences in the second week of Oc- 
 tober. The parish church of the place, which 
 stands dt the north side of the Campo , is dedi- 
 cated in honour of the three Kings, or Eastern 
 Magi, who went to adore Our Infant Redeem- 
 er. 
 
 About a mile farther on stands the village of 
 Lumiar, remarkable for possessing in its vici- 
 nity the delightful gardens of the Marquis of 
 Fayal. The votaries of Flora will find here a 
 rich treat in contemplating the saccos* with 
 which Art has aided Nature in the production of 
 the rarest and most beautiful specimens of plants 
 and flowers. The ground, over which these 
 gardens are spread, undulates in pleasing varie- 
 ty, and contrasts strongly with the laboured and 
 unnatural sameness of the style of the last cen- 
 tury } a defect still too apparent in the gardens 
 of the Laranjeiras. The opportunitas loci has 
 nodoubt been favourable to Lumiar. ; still, much 
 is due to the taste and skill displayed in turn- 
 ing these advantages to the best account. With- 
 R R
 
 305 ODlVELLAS. 
 
 out wishing to impose our own tastes upon this 
 subject on our readers, we would advise them to 
 judge for themselves by visiting both gardens, 
 which the munificence of the two noble propri- 
 etors will easily enable them to do by a ticket 
 of admission. The gardens of the Laranjeiras 
 can . only be seen by the profamim vulgut on 
 Sundays. 
 
 Descending from Lumiar to the valley below, 
 and taking the road to the left, we arrive at 
 a distance of about two miles at the village 
 and convent of Odivellas. On entering the vil- 
 lage, the most striking object that presents it- 
 telf is an arch in the Moorish or Arabesque style, 
 surmounted by a cross, erected in the middle of 
 the road. Three smaller arches, erected below 
 the principal one, support a tablet or ledge of 
 stone, which passes from side to side of the great 
 arch. The whole being built of stone, has resisted 
 the ravages of time, and has also bad the good 
 fortune to escape the ruthless hands of modern 
 levellers. The precise object for which this arch 
 was raised, has not been well ascertained. It is 
 popularly denominated, u The monument of king 
 Denis," and is supposed to have been used as a 
 resting place for his remains before they were 
 deposited in the churcb, Frev Francisco Brandao
 
 OD1VELLAS. 306 
 
 says that it was constructed as a resting plac 
 for the cofliu of John I., when his body was 
 transferred from Lisbon to Batalha. It might 
 have been used on both occasions : the architec- 
 ture indicates higher antiquity than the middle 
 of the fifteenth century. A spacious court con- 
 ducts us to the convent. Ever since its founda- 
 tion by king Denis, in the year 1 305, it has been 
 inhabited by nuns of the order of St. Bernard. 
 Its founder endowed it with royal magnificence. 
 Himself, a daughter, and four of his grandsons 
 were buried within its walls. In a small dark 
 chapel near the entrance is the tomb of the ro- 
 yal founder. It is considerably defaced , the front 
 part faces the wall, and the back has been co- 
 vered with stucco. The interior of the church 
 has little worthy of special notice, if we except 
 perhaps the choir, which is beautiful and rich, 
 and four paintings by Gran-Vasco. Near the 
 porch there is partly imbedded in the walla ball 
 of stone, more than a yard in circumference, 
 and beneath it an inscription implying that the 
 ba.ll was placed here by Don Alvaro de Nor- 
 onha, being one of those that the Turks had 
 shot against the citadel of Ormus, in an unsuc- 
 cessful attempt to take the plac during the time 
 that he commanded there.
 
 307 MONTAXIQUE. 
 
 Before quitting the precincts of the convent, 
 we would by all means advise the visitor to try 
 the marmalade made by the nuns inside, which 
 is certainly of unrivalled excellence* It is beau- 
 tifully white and almost transparent. They cut 
 it into diamond-shaped 'pieces, and keep it made 
 up in pounds, enclosed in papers ready for sale. 
 An application at the wheel will meet with im- 
 mediate attention. 
 
 After descending from Lumiar, if the travel- 
 ler had taken the turn to the right, he would 
 have found himself in the delightful valley of 
 Loures, which extends for nearly a league, and 
 is hemmed in, on both sides, by rich and fertile 
 hills, covered with vineyards and cornfields. At 
 its termination, the road divides into two:, that 
 to the right conducts to Tojal and Eucellas, 
 famous for producing the once favorite wine of 
 that name , and the other ascending the hills 
 leads to the highest point of land in Estrema- 
 dura, called Montaxique. This point is in im- 
 mediate contiguity with the famous lines of Tor- 
 res Vedras, formed by the duke of Wellington 
 to check the progress of the French, when march- 
 ing upon Lisbon under the command of marshal 
 Massena in 1810. Besides the magnificent view 
 uf the surrounding country, that is presented
 
 SXCURsIOX, &C. 
 
 from the summit of Montaxique, the place is 
 also celebrated for several chalybeate springs, 
 which gush from the sides and foot of the moun- 
 tain. 
 
 Excursion to St . Ubes . fa lie de Zebro . Coyn a . 
 floods. Palmella. St Ubes. Troya. Capu- 
 chin convent. St. Margarets cave. Arrabida. 
 
 Azeiido. The Sado. Salt pits. Akacer de 
 
 Sal. 
 
 "Where'er we gaze, around, above, below, 
 What rainbow tints, what magic charms 
 are found ! 
 
 . Rock, river, forest, mountain, all abound, 
 And bluest skies that harmonize the whole." 
 
 Byron. 
 
 Nearly one half of the distance;from Lisbon to 
 St. Ubes may be gone by water. A steamer 
 with passengers for Valle de Zebro, leaves tha 
 quay at the Praga do Commercio every morn- 
 ing. The place of disembarcation is near the 
 extremity of an arm of the Tagus, called jRto 
 de Coyna. Coyna is a small village at the wa- 
 ter's edge consisting of a few straggling and di- 
 ii a 2
 
 30'.) VALLE DB ZEBRO. 
 
 lapidated houses, and the works of a mining 
 company, who in vainly attempting to raise the 
 precious metals from the bowels of the earth, 
 seem to have lost those which they had in their 
 pockets. Near the long wooden quay belonging 
 to the steam company is an hospital for invalided 
 marines. This, with the exception of a water 
 mill, and a wretchedly provided inn, are the only 
 habitations at ValledeZebro, and no other will 
 be met with, till we have traversed the immense 
 pine wood, into which we immediately enter, 
 taking for our beacon, the castle of Palmella, 
 visible at intervals along the road. 
 
 Some sixty years ago, a traveller going to St. 
 Ubes thus writes: "Notwithstanding the trade 
 of this place, and the constant intercourse be- 
 tween it and Lisbon, yet there is not a perch 
 of road to be seen the whole way ; nor can 
 any find their way in the journey, except those 
 who are in the constant habit of travelling there ^ 
 every other person must take a guide, or what 
 will answer the same purpose, one of the mules 
 which is trained to the route." This description 
 as far as regards the mules and the way from Val- 
 le de Zebro to Palmella, is still true, though the 
 account has reference to the transit between 
 Mouta and Palmella Formerly the traveller
 
 PALMELLi. 310 
 
 incurred considerable danger in traversing the 
 wood from the banditti that infested it. The 
 writer has travelled with a gentleman who was 
 made prisoner by robbers when going from Lis- 
 bon to St. Ubes. Some of his party, who had 
 preceded him, were stripped and plundered ^ he 
 was suffered to proceed without further moles- 
 tation, as he was known to the marauders at 
 a humane and charitable gentleman. An occa- 
 sional goatherd or woodcutter are the only be- 
 ings the traveller meets with as he passes along. 
 In certaiu spots are discernible vestiges of very 
 extensive fires by which all vegetation has beeu 
 destroyed for several miles. These fires usually 
 take place in the dry autumn months, and are 
 often the work of incendiaries, who for the pur- 
 pose of providing open pasture for the flocks of 
 goats that feed in the woods, scruple not to Uy 
 waste a large extent, and occasion incalculable 
 damage to the proprietors. At the moment these 
 lines are being penned, not less than three of 
 these fires are visible from Lisbon, and the heat 
 on some occasions is said to be so great as to 
 effect the atmosphere as far as the north side of 
 the Tagus. 
 
 As soon as we begin to ascend the Arrabida 
 chain, cultivated field* and* vineyardi lino the
 
 311 riLMELLA. 
 
 road, and before we reach the elevated point 
 on which Palmella stands, we begin to be re- 
 paid for our dreary ride through the forest by 
 the magnificent view that is discernible in the 
 rear. But it is only on reaching the summit of 
 the castle of Palmella, that the eye can wander 
 with undiminished delight over the unbounded 
 view of mountain and valley, land and sea, all 
 mingled together in one wide expanse of beauty 
 and grandeur. To the north west the horizon 
 is bounded by the bald peaks of Cintra, whose va- 
 riegated and beautiful forms are admirably seen 
 from any point of view. Midway between these 
 
 and the spot where we stand Lisbon with its pa- 
 laces and turrets glittering in the sunshine ; the 
 noble Tagus rolling its mighty tide to the sea ^ 
 the vast Atlantic sweeping a line of coast of thirty 
 leagues in extent ^ the mountains of Arrabida on 
 the west, with all the varied alternations of preci- 
 pice and valley, of thickly wooded ascent, and 
 bald bare peaks ^ towards the south the lovely 
 bay of St.Ubes, with its long peninsula of sand 
 and picturesque town, washed by the modest 
 Sado, quietly winding its way eastward in a 
 semicircular form through the woods and sandy 
 plains along the edges of the white Salt-pits j
 
 IT. TfBES. 312 
 
 all these objects combined form a panorama of 
 the most diversified and impressive character. 
 
 The town of Palmella is a collection of wretch- 
 ed comfortless houses, without any inn or res- 
 pectable place for baiting or refreshment. The 
 castle is of Moorish origin , and if we exeept the 
 view, is only remarkable for twe large reservoirs, 
 still in a good state of preservation. The rain 
 water that is collected inside in winter, would be 
 sufficient to supply a numerous garrison for se- 
 veral months. In the higher one a very remark- 
 able echo can be obtained by shouting at the 
 orifice through which the water is drawn up. 
 In the immediate vicinity of the castle stands 
 fast decaying, an extensive house, formerly occu- 
 pied by religious knights of the military order 
 of St. James. In the seqtiestration of religious 
 property in 1834 no exception was made in fa- 
 vour of the military orders. 
 
 The road from Palmella to St. Ubes lie 
 through a rich and beautiful valley filled with 
 orange and lemon groves, and interspersed with 
 gardens and country seats. The oranges pro- 
 duced in these quinias are superior to those 
 grown in any other part of the country. 
 
 St. Ubes ranks the first among the towns 
 .(Villa*) of Portugal. Its population it about 
 
 5 S '2
 
 313 TR01A. 
 
 15,000. It is situated on the left bank of the 
 Sado at about a league's distance from the bar 
 of the river. The streets in general are narrow 
 and dirty, and the houses mean. Those imme- 
 diately facing the river are the best constructed. 
 The port, which is narrow and of difficult en- 
 trance in consequence of the sand banks that 
 have there accumulated, is protected on the north 
 west by the fort of St. Philip, which was built 
 during the Spanish domination. On the oppo- 
 site side of the river are the ruins of Troya. 
 They stand on a narrow neck of land formed be- 
 tween the sea and a branch of the river. Anti- 
 quarians are not agreed as to the origin of these 
 ruins. The most probable opinion is, that they 
 are the remains of a Roman town, which was 
 built on the site of a Phoenician colony. This 
 conjecture rests on the discovery of many Roman 
 and Phoenician coins on this spot, which are in 
 the possession of the vicar-general of St. Ubcs : 
 and a box containing Phoenician ornaments was 
 found here some years ago. But few vestiges 
 of the ruins are at present discernible and those 
 which exist are insufficient in the absence of fur- 
 ther proof, to solve tho problem of their origin 
 and history. 
 
 When the writer with a party visited the
 
 ST. UBES, 314 
 
 spot in the year 184G, an incident occurred 
 which is worth recording. At a little dis- 
 tance from the placo where we stood, some* 
 thing like a large bird was seen fluttering on 
 the ground. On a nearer approach we found 
 that what we had seen were two sparrowhawks 
 contending with each other in mortal fight. So 
 intent were the combatants on the deadly strug- 
 gle in which they were engaged, that they suf- 
 fered themselves to be taken up while they were 
 mutually grasping each other with their beaks 
 and talons. Even after we had carried them 
 some distance, it was not without difficulty that 
 they could be separated. We took them with 
 us alive to St. Ubes, and there gave them to a 
 juvenile friend. 
 
 St. Ubes possesses several churches : the lar- 
 gest is that of St. Julian's, in which are two 
 original paintings by Vasco. There is a churcli 
 denominated the Jesus, belonging to Capuchin 
 nuns, which is remarkable not only for its an- 
 tiquity, but for the very superior paintings which 
 it contains. The foundation of the convent datei 
 as far back as 1480. It was built by an Italian 
 architect of the name of Boutaca, whom John 
 II. had sent for from Italy. It was commenced 
 at the expense of a private individual, but tn-
 
 31t* ATIRABIDA. 
 
 larged and finished by king John. Besides it> 
 very remarkable architecture, it contains a twist- 
 ed column formed of one single stone of black 
 granite. The paintings above alluded to are fif- 
 teen in number, and are attributed to Gran- 
 Vasco, a supposition not improbable, as well 
 from the character of the paintings themselves, 
 as from the fact that they were all given to the 
 convent by kings John II. and Emmanuel, who 
 were both patrons of that great artist. 
 
 When at St. Ubes, the traveller should spend 
 a day in visiting Arrabida, a sanctuary remark- 
 able for the peculiarity of its situation, and for 
 having been the retreat of the celebrated ascetic, 
 St. Peter of Alcantara. The most convenient 
 means of reaching it is by water. A boat for 
 this purpose can be hired at St. Ubes, from which 
 place there is a pleasant sail under the forts of 
 St Philip, Alcacer, and Outao. Afterj passing 
 the bar of the river, and sailing or rowing for 
 some distance upon the ocean, we approach a 
 small inlet known by the name of Portinho da 
 Arrabida. Almost immediately on the shore 
 there exists a large cavern entirely formed of 
 Stalactites, the fantastic points and doublings of 
 which covering tho roof, give it the appearance 
 of a Gothic chapel. In the middle or nave an
 
 ABRABIDi, 
 
 altar has been erected in honour of St. Margaret. 
 An annual festival is here celebrated in honour 
 of the saint, which is numerously attended by 
 visitors, who assemble here from St. Ubes and 
 the neighbouring country, both by land and 
 water. 
 
 From St. Margaret's cave to the convent tha 
 road, as the visitor will find to his cost,is steep, 
 and what is worse it must be ascended on foot, 
 as animals cannot be procured in the neighbour- 
 hood. The following account of the convent it 
 taken from the reminiscences of Portugal by 
 Prince Lichnowski, in 1842. 
 
 "At about two thirds of the way up the 
 mountain stands the monastery of Arrabida, 
 where we at last arrived, weary and scorched 
 by the terrific violence of the mid-day sun. Thii 
 monastery, which was anciently of great impor- 
 tance, and gave to a portion of its order the title of 
 the Provincia of Arrabida , was suppressed like ail 
 the rest : but it had the good fortune to be pur- 
 chased by the duke of Palmella. who has never 
 for a moment entertained the grovelling idea of 
 turning to profit this historical monument, by 
 transforming it after the modern fashion, nor 
 has he allowed it through neglect to crumble in- 
 to mini. The situation of Arrabida strung]/ 
 T T
 
 317 AERAB1DA. 
 
 reminded ine of the monastery of Moliserrat in 
 Catalunha. Though it wants the sharp points of 
 the turreted rocks, which crown Monserrat with 
 their hermitages, and render it the most singu- 
 lar mountain in the world} nevertheless the mo- 
 nastery of Arrabida hangs half bending over an 
 abyss in the same manner as the celebrated con- 
 vent of Catalunha, the great resort of pilgrims. 
 We travelled for a considerable time from one 
 hermitage to another over long and narrow 
 paths, passing by several small chapels, until we 
 reached the place where, according to tome wri- 
 ters, the monks gave themselves up to every 
 species of licentiousness. Nothing but the great- 
 est credulity, or the most profound ignorance 
 could admit such a suspicion, which must appear 
 manifestly most unfounded, to all those who take 
 the trouble to examine carefully these abodes. 
 Whilst standing in the wretched hermitage, 
 where these barefooted religious met only for 
 penance and prayer, the idea struck me that the 
 best punishment for the authors of such an ab- 
 surd calumny would be to shut them up for some 
 time in this very spot, where, dieted on spare 
 regimen, they might lead the dissolute life of the 
 monks, till with bodies emaciated by disciplines 
 and hairslurts they should be cured of the
 
 AUUAIS1DA, 313 
 
 malevolence of their thoughts. In the cloister* 
 and near the walls are seen monks in nurbla 
 on their knees, or prostrate on the ground : ma- 
 ny of the cells are hollowed in the rock, others 
 are raised against it. All are but a few feet 
 square, affording scarcely room sufficient for one 
 person to move within them. The doorways 
 are narrow and low, rendering it necessary to 
 stoop in order to enter ; small windows or rather 
 apertures let a dim light into these closets." * 
 
 "Yet even this, small as it was, was snatched 
 from them :, and even so the fact is beyond a 
 doubt, that throughout the Iberian peninsula not 
 a single friar, with the exception of such as 
 were unworthy of the name, among the many 
 who have been cast forth at large on the world, 
 has ceased deploring the loss of his narrow clois- 
 ter, where he consecrated his days to fasting, 
 watching, and prayer. 1 ' 
 
 The convent of Arrabida contains not any ob- 
 ject of art: at least we meet with nothing there 
 now: its poetry exists in its history, in its si- 
 tuation, and in the widowhood of its abandoned 
 sanctuary. The duke of Palmella employs a 
 secular priest to watch over the edifice : thanks 
 to the zeal of thi nobleman, many appropriate
 
 319 AIHABIDA. 
 
 repair! have been most laudably made in all 
 parti where ruin was threatened. " 
 
 The cell inhabited by St. Peter of Alcantara 
 is till fchown, as well as those of his compa- 
 nions. The convent was founded in the year 
 1639, but the spot was dedicated to religion at 
 early as 1253. The legend of its first founda- 
 tion is curious, and may prove not unacceptable 
 to our readers* The following is a free trans- 
 lation of it as contained in a little work which 
 has far its title, "Kelaruo abbreviada da anti- 
 yuidade da Senkora da Arralida, e tie como veto 
 da Jnglaterra para /'ortugal." 
 
 *'In past ages the Catholic faith flourished in 
 England with such abundant fruits, that that is- 
 land obtained the name of First-born daughter 
 of the Church. The first to plant it there was 
 Joseph of Arimathea, the disciple of Christ our 
 Lord, but in consequence of the interruption of 
 the communication with the Romans, Christia- 
 nity became in a short time extinct. In the 
 yr of Christ 183, while St. Eleuthcrius go- 
 verned the universal Church, he sent at the in- 
 stance of Lucius, then king of Britain, Fugatius 
 and Damianus to baptise him and hit vtmals. 
 King and people w, re so well disposed, that at 
 the vory first preaching of theee apostolic men,
 
 1R1UB1DA. 350 
 
 they embraced the failh of Christ. In this faith 
 the country persevered, till its subjugation by 
 the Saxons, idolators of Upper Germany, who 
 again extinguished there the light of faith. In 
 the year 595, St. Gregory the Great sent over 
 
 some Benedictine monks with a view of a<*ain 
 
 o 
 
 restoring the glory of Catholicity in the island. 
 This they did, and with so much glory to God, 
 that all the inhabitants were converted to the 
 Christian religion. Thus the country continued 
 for nearly a thousand years, till in i534 the aban- 
 doned Henry VIII., following the brutal im- 
 pulse of his passions, introduced into the king- 
 dom the heresy in which it is still immersed. 
 This being premised, there is a well authen- 
 ticated tradition that the glorious heralds of the 
 faith sent by St. Gregory to Britain built an 
 oratory, and having caused an image of the mot 
 holy Mary, with the divine child in her armi, 
 to be carved in stone, they erected the same in 
 their oratory, in order that it might be looked 
 upon and venerated by all, being the first which 
 on that occasion was seen in England, and is 
 the one which is now venerated at Arrabida. 
 The English failed not devoutly to visit the sanc- 
 tuary which had been erected, and the devotion 
 which they shewed to our Lady was rewarded 
 T T 8
 
 3$1 ARRABIDA. 
 
 by many miracles which testified the efficacy of 
 her intercession. At length the oratory, which 
 during the lapse of several centuries had con- 
 tinued in the possession of the descendants of 
 the person, who had first given the ground for 
 its erection, fell into the hands of a devout 
 and opnlent merchant of the name of Hailde- 
 brant. He having come to the resolution of 
 quitting his native land and coming to Portu- 
 gal, rither with a view to greater commercial 
 profits, or for some other additional reason, put 
 part of his effects on board, sold the remainder, 
 and being full of devotion towards the sacred 
 image of our Lady, he prepared for it in the 
 cabin of the ship, a decent and fit recep- 
 tacle, in which he placed it. After bidding 
 adieu to friends and relatives, he was wafted 
 in a few days to the bar of Lisbon, the place 
 of his destination ; but it was not God's will 
 that he should enter the port. The wind, which 
 till then had been favourable and mild, now 
 suddenly rose, and blew with such fearful vio- 
 lencp, that the crew gave themselves up for lost, 
 Dashed about at the mercy of the winds and 
 waves, Haildebrant's ship was carried round 
 Cape Espichel, where at a point called Alpor- 
 tuche, between the serra and the bar of St.Ubei,
 
 A R RABID A. 
 
 it wa* expected every moment to go down. Th 
 darkness of the night increased the horror of the 
 scene. The crew having now no hopes of earthly 
 help had recourse to that of Heaven, and sought 
 the benign aid of the most Holy Mary, Star of 
 the Sea, for escaping the danger. "WithHail- 
 debrant at their head they assembled in the ca- 
 bin to implore with tearful eyes the intercession 
 of her whose image they were conveying with 
 them. They found it not ! It had disappeared ! 
 Confounded now, as well a& terrified, they knew 
 not what to say or do, but believing their sins 
 to have made them unworthy of Mary's protec- 
 tion, they cried aloud to Heaven for mercy. In 
 the midst of this terrible consternation Hailde- 
 brant and his companions returning on deck be- 
 held, on the lee side of the ship, a long stream 
 of light which pierced the thick darkness that 
 enveloped them, and which was so strong and 
 brillant as to render visible the peaks of the 
 mountains on the shore. They at once pro- 
 nounced it to be miraculous } and indeed its ap- 
 pearance was the signal for the abating of the 
 storm. As the danger ceased, joy filled every 
 countenance except that of Haildebrant who felt 
 too deeply the loss he had sustained in the strange 
 disappearance of the beloved image of Her, w.hom
 
 393 ABRASIDA, 
 
 he honoured at his protectress in every danger. 
 The light still continued to shine with undimi- 
 nished brilliancy, till the morning sun, dispelling 
 the gloom that in every other point still brooded 
 over the waters, revealed to the crew the full 
 extent of the danger from which they had es- 
 caped from the rocks, which were lying in the 
 direct track in which the vessel had been drift- 
 ing during the storm. With grateful hearts 
 they returned thanks to God. Deeply struck 
 with the prodigy that had been wrought in their 
 favour they made directly for the land, and keep- 
 ing steadily in view the point from which the 
 light had shone, they ascended the abrupt rock 
 which arose almost from the water's edge. Ar- 
 riving at the point where the chapel of the 
 Blessed Virgin now stands, to their great asto- 
 nishment, and greater joy, they beheld standing 
 on one of the rocks the imagp of the Mother of 
 God, which had so mys>teriouily disappeared from 
 the cabin of the vessel. Prostrating themselvei 
 before it, they saluted it with respectful vene- 
 ration, proclaiming aloud, as they well might, 
 that it was to the patronage of Her whom it 
 represented that they owed their deliverance." 
 The legend then goes on to state, that Hail- 
 debraut would not consent that the image ibould
 
 AZEITAO, 384 
 
 be removed from the place to which it had been 
 so miraculously transferred ^ that he built a cha- 
 pel on the spot, distributed among the poor the 
 surplus of alt his wealth, and becama for the 
 rest of his days an hermit on the serra. Hi 
 crew afterwards settld at Almada, whence every 
 year they want in solemn pilgrimage to the 
 shrine of our Lady of Arrabida. In confirma- 
 tion of the above narrative, the little book from, 
 which it is taken cites a document said to exist 
 in the archives of the Cathedral, which is Hail- 
 debrant's profession of obedience to the bishop 
 and chapter of Lisbon. 
 
 Quitting Arrabida by the road which runs 
 along the mountain, we have from the summit a 
 distant view to the west of cape Espichel with 
 its light-house and church. Leaving Calham, 
 a spacious country mansion, belonging to the 
 duke of Palmella, in the plain to our left, we 
 come, round the foot of the mountain, to the village 
 of Azeita>>. This is a large and populous village, 
 or rather town, containing about 3,000 inhabi- 
 tants. It contains some manufactories, and coun- 
 try seats belonging to the nobility and gentry } 
 and the soil in its neighbourhood produces abun- 
 dance of wine and oil. Azeitao, from its proxi- 
 mity to the capital and to St. Ubes, joined to its 
 V U
 
 3S5 THE 91DO. 
 
 natnral fertility, might long since have been a 
 thriving and wealthy town, had a moderate out- 
 lay been expended in improving its means of 
 communication with those two places. As it is, 
 the Tagus can be reached only by traversing a 
 trackless forest of pines ; aud the road to St. 
 Ubes is either the circuitous one of Palmclla, or 
 a still more rugged and tedious pass over the 
 nearer heights. 
 
 Another interesting trip from St. Ubes is to 
 follow the course of the Sado, in the direction 
 ofAlcacer do Sal. The river in front of St.Ubes 
 is something lets than a league in breadth. It 
 has an excellent anchorage for-ships, and might 
 be called a good harbour, were it not for the 
 sandbanks, which impede its entrance and navi- 
 gation. In the year 1842, 432 ships entered 
 the port ^ 156 Portuguese, 105 Swedish, 44 
 Dutch, 36 French, 31 English, 23 Russian, 21 
 American, 11 from the Hanse towns, 9 Danish, 
 8 Prussians, and 7 Hanoverians. 
 
 As we ascend the stream, our attention will 
 be arrested by the piles of salt, which lie along 
 its low and marshy banks. They are raised in 
 the form of hayricks, and are thatched with 
 traw or rushes. The salt of St.Ubes is clearer 
 and whiter than that of Aveiro or Cadiz, Thii
 
 ALCACER DO SAL. 336 
 
 circumstance, added to the. fact that the price 
 never varies, is what render* the exportation of 
 it so large. It is calculated that not lets than 
 000 men are always employed in the salt pits 
 (Salinas}, and sometimes a much greater num- 
 ber. The salt is collected in large rectangular 
 reservoirs which are about three feet deep, and 
 extend as far as nine leagues from St. Ubes. 
 The water is introduced into these reservoirs by 
 means of canals, which are branched off in va- 
 rious directions. As soon as a reservoir is filled, 
 the canal is closed. In some places the water is 
 first conducted to a large general deposit, whence 
 it is let out as required into the adjacent salt- 
 pits. As soon as the water is dried up by the 
 heat of the tun, which usually happens in the 
 month of June, the salt is collected together, 
 sometimes in huts or barns, and sometimes in 
 heaps in the open air, as above described. The 
 price of a Moio of salt is one mil rei, or four 
 shillings and six pence : but the expenses of car- 
 riage and shipment, which also follow a fixed 
 tariff, are to the account of the purchaser. 
 
 About six leagues from St. Ubes stands the 
 town of Alcacer do Sal. It is small, and derives 
 its principal profits from its saltpits and fishery. 
 This town was of considerable importance in
 
 327 ALHANDUA. 
 
 the time of the Romans. Julius Caesar made it 
 a free town. It possessed a temple dedicated to 
 the goddess Solatia. The opulent Romans, who 
 inhabited Bpja, Evora, and other places of Lu- 
 sitania,had villas in its neighbourhood, in which 
 they used to pass the summer months for the 
 purpose of enjoying the saltwater baths. It was 
 taken from the Moors in 1217 by AlphonsusII. 
 
 Banks of the Tagus Alhandra. Villa Franco. 
 
 Lezirias Villa. Nova. Santarem. Tho- 
 
 mar. Lciria. Batalha. Alcoba$a, Caldas. 
 
 "They entered, and from aisle to aisle 
 Wandered with folded arms awhile, 
 Where on his altar-tomb reclined 
 The crosiered Abbot } and the knight 
 In harness for the Christian fight 
 His hands in supplication joined.'* 
 
 Rogers. 
 
 Leaving Lisbon, in one of the company's stea- 
 mers, we pass on our left a fertile and well 
 cultivated tract of country, which contrasts 
 strongly with the dry and sandy wastes on the 
 opposite bank. Olive grounds and cornfields,
 
 VILLA FRANCA* 328 
 
 orchards and occasional orange groves, inter- 
 spersed here and there with whitewashed vil- 
 las and cottages, are the objects that chiefly catch 
 the eye, as we glide along. The first place at 
 which the steamer touches after quitting Lisbon 
 is Alhandra. It is a poor fishing town, consist- 
 ing of low and comfortless houses, and dirty and 
 ill-paved streets. The principal church of the 
 place is singularly situated on a hill which com- 
 mands the whole village. There is a cemetery 
 contiguous to the church, and it is a common 
 saying amongst the Portuguese, that "at Alban- 
 dra the dead are over the living." From thii 
 point commenced the celebrated lines, which the 
 Duke of Wellington formed against the French 
 under Massena, by which he effectually protected 
 the whole peninsula which stretches to the sea, 
 and is bounded by the Tagus, having Lisbon 
 at its southwest extremity. 
 
 Abftut a mile farther on is the town of Villa 
 Franca da Xira. It was to this place that Don 
 John VI. retired, on the occasion of the sup- 
 pression of the Constitution of 1820. Having con- 
 tinued here for a few days, he returned to the 
 capital amidst the enthusiastic acclamations of 
 u Long live the absolute king ."" Villa Franca con- 
 tains about 6000 inhabitants, and for a country 
 v 3
 
 329 ViLLi NOVA; 
 
 town, has some tolerable streets and respectable 
 bouses. As we approach Alhandra and Villa 
 Franca, we meet with several extensive islands, 
 formed of thick alluvial soil, rising but little 
 above the surface of the water. Here also com- 
 mence the Lezirias, which occupy a surface of 
 about 70 square miles, and have lately been 
 cultivated with great success. They are lowlands 
 which, in the rainy season are often under wa- 
 ter,- and produce two crops in the year } one 
 of wheat, within fifty days after it is sown, and 
 another of Indian corn which is sown after the 
 wheat harvest. Immense herds of cattle are fed 
 and reared on these lands at a very trifling ex- 
 pense. 
 
 The last point where the passengers from 
 Lisbon arc landed from the steamer is Villa 
 Nova. Here, as well as at Villa Franca, ani- 
 mals are in readiness to carry travellers to any 
 part of the country. The direct road to Bata- 
 Iha is through the Caldas, in a direction almost 
 due north. As we propose in our present ex- 
 cursion to return that way, we will take a north 
 easterly course in the direction of Santarem. 
 The road lies through the extensive pine-wood 
 of Azambuja. We could also arrive there by 
 following the course of the river, but the navi-
 
 SlNTAUEM, 330 
 
 gat Jon, besides being difficult, would be tedious 
 and circuitous. A considerable improvement it 
 being attempted in the communication between 
 Lisbon and Santarem,by clearing and in some 
 places opening a canal, which joins the river a 
 little above Villa Nova, and is intended to be ren^ 
 dered navigable almost as far as Santarem. 
 
 This town, which may be reached on the same 
 day that the traveller leaves Lisbon, is situated 
 on an elevated mountain, on the right bank of 
 the Tagus. Its distance from Lisbon is about 
 fifteen leagues. It stands almost in the centre 
 of the province of Estremadura, and has always 
 been considered as a position of great military 
 importance. It was the head quarters of the 
 French army in the celebrated campaign of 
 1810. It is divided into three sections or Bair- 
 ros, and contains about 8000 inhabitants. The 
 highest Bairro is called Marvilla, and occupies 
 the table-land at the top of the mountain, and 
 is commanded only by the citadel or castle, Alca- 
 gowa, which crowns the height, that rises perpen- 
 dicularly over the Tagus. This fortress, as the 
 name indicates, is of Moorish origin. Many of 
 the outworks on the west are of much later con- 
 struction, and may be referred to the time of 
 Alphonsus VI. Even a far back at the time
 
 931 SANTABBM. 
 
 of the Romans, Santarem was a place of great 
 importance. It was called by them Scalabis or 
 Scalable astnim , and its name was changed in 
 tho time of Julius Caesar into that of Prcesidium 
 Jttliutn, It was the chief town of the district, 
 and was connected with the south bank of the 
 Tagus by a bridge, forming part of the military 
 road that went from Lisbon to Merida. It was 
 taken from the Moors, first by Don Affonso 
 VI. of Castile in 1093, and afterwards by Don 
 Affonso Henriques in 1147. In the days of 
 its glory it reckoned thirteen parishes : it now 
 contains only five. 
 
 The view from the summit of the castle is in- 
 describably beautiful. Gardens, vineyards, olive- 
 grounds, villages, quintas\ the extensive plaint 
 of Golgaa, and above all, the classic Tagus wind- 
 ing its silvery way beneath the time-worn bat- 
 tlements and far into the distant plain, form tha 
 the principal traits of the picture. 
 
 The objects most interesting to the artist and 
 the antiquary are, first, the church belonging 
 to the suppressed convent oPthe Graga, founded 
 by the count of Ourem, whose remains rett with- 
 in it in a superb mausoleum of Gothic architec- 
 ture-, it also contains the monument of Pedro 
 Alvarei Cubrol. the fanaoui discoverer of Braiil,
 
 SANTAUEM. 332 
 
 The style of the architecture is ancient and im- 
 posing. The portico is decorated with round 
 and pointed columns in semi-relievos It posses- 
 ses a circular gallery, apparently of a single 
 stone. The chapel of St. Rita is worthy of at- 
 tention as well for the richness of its ornaments, 
 as for a remarkable picture of the saint, painted 
 by Ignatius Xavier, a native of Santarem about 
 the year 1724. She is represented in an ecstacy 
 and surrounded by angels. 
 
 Second: The conventual church of St. Fran- 
 cis. This edifice was constructed in the thir- 
 teenth century, and contains a remarkable im- 
 age of Christen the cross, which stands on the left 
 of the principal entrance. It was executed by 
 order of John I. Tradition says that the height 
 of the fignre is of the exact stature of that mo- 
 narch. The church contains the mausoleum of 
 thefirstcount of Vianna, one of the most beau- 
 tiful relics of Gothic architecture. 
 
 Third : The church of the Jesuits, which is 
 now a parish church. The chancel contains som 
 rich mosaic and a beautiful marble altar. The 
 building attached to the church was, after the 
 expulsion of the Jesuits, transformed into an epis- 
 copal seminary. At present it contains no fct- 
 
 dents, as it possesses no means for their support. 
 X X
 
 333 GOLGAA. 
 
 The library is in a state of disgraceful neglect 
 and confusion. 
 
 Fourth : The church of St. John do Alporao. 
 This appellation is according to tradition a cor- 
 ruption of Alcoruo, Alcoran. The architecture co- 
 incides with the appellation, being in the Ara- 
 besque style, though sadly disfigured, both within 
 and without by plaster and whitewash. 
 
 In a religious and devotional point of view 
 Santarem contains much to arrest the attention of 
 the Catholic traveller \ and such a one we would 
 recommend not to leave the town without pay- 
 ing bis adorations to the miraculous host that i 
 preserved in the Church of the Santo Milagre, 
 and occasionally exposed to the veneration of 
 tho faithful. 
 
 The journey from Santarem to Thomar may 
 be made in one day. As far as Golgaa, which 
 ii about half the distance., the country is fertilo 
 and well cultivated. In some seasons the exten- 
 *ive flats, through which we pass, are covered 
 with water for several months. These plains 
 run parallel with the river T and extend about a 
 league in breadth to the foot of the mountains. 
 From Golgaa the soil appears to be less fruit- 
 ful, and. on the hills little else is seen but plan- 
 tation! of pina trees.
 
 THOM1R. 334 
 
 The following account of Tbomar wa given 
 by count Raczynski in 1845. 
 
 "Among the smull towns which I visited, I 
 allude only to those which do not reckon above 
 3000 inhabitants, none of them produced a mor 
 pleasing impression upon me than Thomar. It 
 is intersected by a torrent, and from whatever 
 point the traveller surveys the surrounding coun- 
 try, his eye rests on seenes of picturesque beauty 
 indicative of content, and even of wealth. Agri- 
 culture, industry, and architecture combine with 
 nature to render it one of the most charming of 
 towns." 
 
 "My first visit was to the church of St. John 
 which stands in the principal square. Above the 
 high altar is a St. John baptizing our Saviour, 
 and on each side eight other large pictures, con- 
 demned to bear the name of Vasco. They arc 
 not bad in some parts } in others they are detes- 
 table. In that which represents the Marriage 
 J Cana or some other feast of the bible, three 
 youthful figures are seen in the foreground in- 
 finitely smaller than two principal figures seated 
 at tha farther end of the table. I asked th 
 sacristan to whom these paintings were attri- 
 buted : he answered } fasco, faico de Game, 
 /fa/iano."
 
 3?* 
 
 the tew*. iafter Bztaiaa. the 
 
 of the JTiJjiii <* Chrirf. It wa* kio* De- 
 
 mml the 
 
 tke wbcle *f P-srteja L The 
 f whkh we are prfcty. Mbiw a Tarietv of 
 l.fhe prvfaetiam o f the cerera! p0r1it dvrivg 
 it wz eAieted, froai tk*t hidb p*- 
 
 thai off be 
 the Gotfcie rfk. well ag
 
 THOX1R. 336 
 
 One of tke courts presents * magnificent 
 model of the last mentioned tyle. Some parts 
 of this monument are in ac excellent state of 
 preservation, others almost in rains. When, 
 standing in the centre of the church, which it 
 of an octagonal form, and facing the altar which 
 rises almost to the height of the arch, we c*- 
 template its architecture which reminds us of 
 the Byzantine order, the simplicity of its oat- 
 lines and the richness of its ornaments, we feel 
 ourselves carried back to the period when* Ca- 
 tholicism first took passesnon of the distant east. 
 The contiguous saloon forcibly reminds IK of 
 the time when the Templars at once warriors 
 and monks assembled to sit in chapter within 
 it. How picturesque must have been this meet- 
 ing of men, simple but emblematic in their 
 garb, men of might and coorage, famed for 
 high exploits, aud yet possessing the humility 
 and submitting to the most rigorous discipline 
 of the monastery!" 
 
 "Passing the threshold, we behold in the in- 
 terior facade a very beautiful and rich specimen 
 of architecture in the style of Emmanuel. 
 A few steps below, we meet with a con- 
 fused mass of bniUing. It is a rery picturesque 
 isseir.bbge of all styles, as if to do honour to 
 
 X X t
 
 335 THOtfAR. 
 
 '"The convent of Thomar, which stands on 
 an elevation near the town, is after Batalha, the 
 most important relic of Portugal's ancient gran- 
 deur. Much of its history is interwoven with 
 that of this convent, \vhich was till the com- 
 mencemcnt of the fourteenth century the habita- 
 tion of the Knights Templars, and subsequently 
 that of the Knights of Christ. It was king De- 
 nis who obtained from the pope permission for 
 the orderof the Templars to continue toexist un- 
 der this latter denomination. They subsequently 
 rendered eminent services to their monarchs and 
 country } they shared the perils and the glory of 
 the conquests which distinguished the second 
 dynasty in three quarters of the globe." 
 
 "Thomar furnishes the most striking and in- 
 teresting example of that love for the arts which 
 Don Emmanuel displayed throughout his reign, 
 and the traces of which are still scattered over 
 the whole of Portugal. The ancient monument, 
 of which we are speaking, combines a variety of 
 tyles,the productions of the several epochs during 
 which it was constructed, from that which pre- 
 coded the Gothic to that of the present time, 
 thus embracing the Gothic style, as well ai 
 thoic which flourished in the reign of Emmanuel 
 anddarinjthe Spanish domination."
 
 THOMAR. 336 
 
 4{ Ono of the courts presents a magnificent 
 model of the last mentioned style. Some parts 
 of this monument are in an excellent state of 
 preservation, others almost in ruins. When, 
 standing in the centre of the church, which is 
 of an octagonal form, and facing the altar vrhich 
 rises almost to the height of the arch, we con- 
 template its architecture which reminds us of 
 the Byzantine order, the simplicity of its out- 
 lines and the richness of its ornaments., we feel 
 ourselves carried back to the period when' Ca- 
 tholicism first took possession of the distant east. 
 The contiguous saloon forcibly reminds us of 
 the time when the Templars at once warriors 
 and monks assembled to sit in chapter within 
 it. How picturesque must have been this meet- 
 ing of men, simple but emblematic in their 
 garb, men of might and courage, famed for 
 high exploits, aud yet possessing the humility 
 and submitting to the most rigorous discipline 
 of the monastery!" 
 
 "Passing the threshold, we behold in the in- 
 terior facade a very beautiful and rich specimen 
 of architecture in the style of Emmanuel. 
 A few steps below, we meet with a con- 
 fused mass of building. It is a very picturesque 
 assemblage of all styles, as if to do honour to 
 x x 5
 
 337 THOMAl.' 
 
 the most distant times, as well as to the last cen- 
 tury } and here too are seen the effects of the 
 negligence, the disorder and the degradation, 
 which have marked the last twenty years of the 
 constitutional and revolutionary history of Por- 
 tugal. It seems, however, that order is now 
 about to resume its empire. Although it has 
 been maintained with an able and steady hand 
 only during the two last years, symptoms of pre- 
 servation are already perceptible even at Tho- 
 mar. The peasants no longer range over the 
 monastery and pillage at pleasure, and the build- 
 ings are carefully kept under lock and key. 
 Moreover it has been proposed to translate hither 
 the episcopal see of Leiria, a measure which 
 would without doubt ensure the preservation of 
 this highly interesting monument. The most 
 beautiful and brilliant ornament in the style of 
 Don Emmanuel, is the window of the chapter 
 house above the choir of the church, and facing 
 the cloister which is called da Santa Barbara. 
 The erection of this convent was commenced in 
 the reign of Affbnso Henriquez, and continued 
 under many of his successors." 
 
 "In the Claustro do Cemeterio do convento 
 stands the beautiful tomb of Don DiogodeGama, 
 almoner of king Emmanuel; he died in 1523,
 
 THOMAB.' 333 
 
 There are in the same church several large pic- 
 tures of that epoch : they are of little merit . 
 On the walls there are many other pictures bear- 
 tng a more modern appearance : it is possible, 
 and even very probable that at a later period 
 they have been retouched, which is here called 
 being restored ." 
 
 "The country between Santarem and Tho- 
 mar affords every facility for examining the pre- 
 sent state of cultivation in Portugal. From 
 what I have seen in this and many other of iU 
 provinces, I am decidedly of opinion that the 
 statements regarding the misery of Portugal are 
 either exaggerated or entirely false. The banks 
 of the Tagus are cultivated on a great scale and 
 with the greatest possible care. I have seen 
 lands farmed with a skill, and improved with 
 an industry unrivalled in the richest countries 
 of Germany. I recal with pleasure the impres- 
 sions which were made upon me by the banks 
 of the Mondego, and some oases between Villa 
 Nova and Caldas, Leiria, Condeixa, &c. ^ and 
 yet what is all this in comparison with what is 
 called the garden of Portugal the province of 
 the Minho : the smallest in the kingdom, and 
 yet containing 800,000 inhabitants, almost one 
 third of the entire population of Portugal ?"
 
 339 ROAD TO LE1RIA. 
 
 "Generally speaking, I boldly affirm, that 
 this country is unknown. I do not remember 
 what American author it was that said: "Take 
 from a Spaniard the few virtues which he pos- 
 sesses, and you will make a Portuguese. 1 ' By- 
 ron in his Childe Harold, calls the Portuguese 
 the "lowest of the low." The statesmen them- 
 selves in Portugal deplore with tears in their 
 eyes the demoralization of the people. For my 
 part, I find this demoralization only in those 
 who are so loud in these complaints, intriguing 
 politicians, pamphleteers, and clubists in those 
 of their priests who have become politicians, 
 freethinkers and pamphleteers. They see this 
 demoralization in the mirror in which they 
 themselves are imaged. I have learnt to con- 
 sider the Portuguese as an intelligent, a labori- 
 ous, and a temperate people. Their character 
 is good, sweet, and gay. They are easy to go- 
 vern, and are attached to religion, and to the 
 throne^ virtues which are made to bear in th 
 liberal vocabulary a particular name : they are 
 called superstition and slavery ." 
 
 As the traveller moves along the high road, 
 which leads from Thomar to Leiria in a north
 
 LEIRI4. 340 
 
 westerly direction, he will meet with few ob- 
 jects that merit attention. 
 
 Leiria is delightfully situated. The town 
 which contains about 3000 inhabitants, is not 
 badly constructed, though like the generality of 
 the towns of this country, it would seem that 
 its population must have once been much more 
 considerable. Its castle of stone, which, though 
 now in ruins and of no importance, yet forms 
 an imposing mass, was in the time of the Suevi, 
 the Visigoths, and the Moors, a favourable po- 
 sition, and made a considerable figure under 
 Don Affonso Henriquez, on occasion of the bat- 
 tle of Ourique. Leiria was also for some time 
 the residence of a Roman proconsul. It would 
 seem however to have been almost forgotten, till 
 it was once more brought into notice during the 
 military transactions in which the duke of Wel- 
 lington played so conspicuous a part in 1808. 
 The views from the castle, from the bishop's gar- 
 den, and from a convent immediately facing the 
 castle, are most extensive and pleasing. The 
 cathedral and episcopal palace are objects of very 
 little interest. The bishop's revenue amounts 
 to 6000 cruzados. 
 
 The river Liz, on whose banks this ancient 
 city is situated, flowi through a rich and fertile 
 Y Y
 
 T.E1RIA. 
 
 plain, which has often been the theatre of he- 
 roic feats of arms. The remains of a palace or 
 castle, formerly the residence of king Denis, sur- 
 named the Husbandman, are still to be seen on 
 the brow of a precipice contiguous to the town. 
 From this spot is descried on the high ground 
 not far distant, the forest of pines, which was 
 planted by direction of that monarch, in order to 
 fix the loose sands, and prevent them from being 
 cattered as heretofore by the violence of the 
 winds over the cultivated lands in the vicinity. 
 The land near Leiria is very fertile, and with 
 little labour yields abundance of corn, wine, and 
 oil. Indeed, when, calling to mind the success 
 with which king Denis strove to make Portu- 
 gal one of the finest granaries in Europe, and 
 its people a rich agricultural nation, the travel- 
 ler moves over its luxuriant soil, and beholds its 
 capabilities in great part neglected, he cannot 
 but regret the change, which it cannot be denied 
 lias come over the minds of the p?ople,and espe- 
 cially that perverse spirit of selfishness, which 
 has made a large section of its nobility and lead- 
 ing capitalists manufacturing monopolists and 
 jobbers in the funds, instead of scientific and 
 nterprising landlords. It might be well to re- 
 aaind this latter class that the slightest energy
 
 3ATALH.4. 34$ 
 
 in developing the natural resources of the king- 
 dom would in a few summers show that mor 
 substantial wealth might be found within their 
 native fields, than was a century ago poured in 
 one incessant stream into this country from th 
 rich mines of the Brazils. 
 
 The ride from Leiria to Batalha is effected 
 in about two hours. This monastery stands at 
 the termination of a long and narrow valley on 
 the banks of the Lena, a small stream that flows 
 into the river Liz. The founder of this magni- 
 ficent pile was king John the First. On th 
 morning of the 14th. of August 1385, the day 
 of the famous battle of Aljubarrota, he vowed, 
 that if success should attend his arms, he would 
 build a religious edifice in honour of Chmt'i 
 holy Mother. The Spaniards were defeated, and 
 within three years the walls of Batalha wer 
 seen to rise. Various opinions have been held 
 and supported respecting the name and country 
 of the principal architect. The late patriarch 
 of Lisbon, Don Fr. Francisco de S. Luiz, in a 
 memoir presented by him to tho academy, d- 
 clares he can see no reason why the famous 
 chronicler Fr. Luis da Sousa should assert that 
 the royal founder brought from distant countriti 
 the best architects and most ikilful itonecntten
 
 313 BATALHA. 
 
 to aid in the erection of the building, seeing 
 that with the exception of the Italians no na- 
 tion of Europe was more advanced in the art 
 of building than the Portuguese at that epoch. 
 Murphy gives the chief honour of the work to 
 an Englishman of the name of Stephen Stephen- 
 son, while the accurate author of Let Arts en 
 Portugal is of opinion that the most ancient 
 portion of the building was the work of the 
 Freemasons, to whom we are indebted for ths 
 cathedral of York and Lichfield, and for the 
 many similar piles in England, France, Ger- 
 many and Spain. "There were," he writes, 
 "towards the close of the middle ages corpora- 
 tions of builders and associations of workmen 
 who went from town to town, and undertook to 
 build cathedrals, and public edifices. They kept 
 as secrets the improvements and discoveries, 
 which by study and experience they effected in 
 the art of building. They knew one another 
 by certain signs, by means of which they were 
 considered as belonging to the association of 
 builders, and as having a right to share in the 
 undertakings and profits of the company. Modern, 
 freemasonry was formed out of these associations 
 of architects and workmen at no very distant 
 period, and Sir Christopher Wren, the architect
 
 XATALHA,. 344 
 
 of St. Paul's at London, was the first whogav 
 it its present organisation. This opinion," h* 
 continues, "is confirmed by a grand master of 
 English freemasonry, who in a letter dated llth 
 March 1845, thus expresses himself thearche- 
 ological pretensions of freemasonry are almost 
 exclusively traditional. I doubt whether it po- 
 lesses any document anterior to the reign of 
 Charles the first, and it may be easily proved 
 that modern masonry, of .every country, hat 
 derived its origin, either directly or indirect- 
 ly, from a lodge at London presided over bj 
 Sir Christopher Wren. We may ay," adds 
 count Raciynski, "that the modern freema- 
 tons resemble the freemasons of the middle 
 ages about as much as the Templars now in 
 Lisbon resemble the Templars of the Crusadei. 
 It might be well to remember after these obser- 
 vations that, in Portugal as in other countries, it 
 was an association of artists of all nations that 
 formed in each of them the magnificent works 
 which we still behold, that these corporations 
 were divided into lodges, having chiefs and di- 
 rectors charged with the tuperip tendance of the 
 buildings ordered ; and that the greater part of 
 these directors let not the espritt forti take of- 
 fence at the assertion were churchmen." 
 
 Y Y 3
 
 BAT ALMA: 
 
 The most striking characteristics of the church 
 of Batalha, which is the principal and most anci- 
 ent portion of this monastic pile, are, majestic 
 simplicity, and modest grandeur. Throughout 
 its columns, arches, vaulted roofs, and arcades, 
 the greatest precision of outline is visible, while 
 all the parts which are of later construction are 
 embellished in a style the most capricious and 
 fanciful, and covered with delicate and elegant 
 sculptures, arabesques, fruits, flowers, and heral- 
 dic emblems. Long windows of stained glass, 
 \vhich dates from the foundation of the edifice, 
 ihed a trembling light over the nave, where in 
 front of the high altar repose king Don Duarta 
 nd bisqucpn D.Leonor of Arragon. They are 
 represented hy figures larger than life, and facing 
 the altar. They have both been however irre- 
 parably damaged by the barbaric vandalism of 
 a French army. It was Don Dims who con- 
 structed the nave and the roof of the last arch 
 According to his father's plan. After his death 
 Jn 1435, his son and successor Don Affonso the 
 fifth, built several portions of the monastery, 
 and Don Emmanuel commenced the mausoleum 
 which still remains in an unfinished state. This 
 is" owing to the death of the sculptor, to whose 
 brilliant fancy and consummate skill Portugal
 
 BATiLHi, 3*6 
 
 is indebted for those basso relievos, which can- 
 not be matched by the productions of any other 
 nation. A spacious arch, forms the entrance to 
 this mausoleum , and though exposed to the ai- 
 saults of wind and rain, and for a long period 
 entirely neglected, it exhibits few traces of de- 
 cay. In the midst of the many ornaments, and 
 the exquisitely delicate tracexy, which embel- 
 lish this magnificent entrance, the following 
 motto in Gothic characters, is strikingly con*- 
 spicuous : " Tanyas erey.'^ The words are Greek, 
 and mean "Explore regions ;" they are supposed 
 to allude to that passion for transmarine discovery 
 which distinguished the reign and character of 
 Don Emmanuel. 
 
 One of the most remarkable portions of thU 
 magnificent pile is the mausoleum of its founder. 
 The style of its architecture, which in some parU 
 is Arabian, in others pure Gothic, present! a 
 strong contrast with the classic simplicity of the 
 principal edifice. Its form is that of an obelisk 
 surrounded by eight arches, and surmounted by 
 small pinnacles. This edifice as well as the mau- 
 soleum of Don Emmanuel is independent of the 
 church, from which it is separated by mean* 
 of an iron railing. It is of a quadrangular form, 
 and contains in the centre, the tomb of D.qn
 
 the recent repairs -which have taken place at 
 Batalha, and which have been effected at no 
 slight cost. The chapter house with its bold 
 and almost fearful ceiling, which three architects 
 toiled in vain to secure without the defect of a 
 centre support, but which still stands the enduring 
 triumph of the skill and patience of the fourth, 
 is a masterpiece of architecture. Its plan forms 
 a square, each side of which measures 64 feet. 
 The principal ribs of the vault spring from slen- 
 der shafts, and branch out in different directions 
 as they approach the centre, where all the ra- 
 diating nerves, in the form of a star, encircle 
 an ornamented patera. 
 
 It has been remarked that nothing else in 
 Portugal is capable of interesting a traveller af- 
 ter seeing Batalha} and we might with propri- 
 ety, here take leave of our readers if the plan 
 of our excursion had allowed us to describe, be- 
 fore, the church and monastery of Alcobaja, the 
 resting place of Don Pedro the Cruel, and his 
 murdered consort, the beautiful Igiiez de Cas- 
 tro. 
 
 Alcobaga is situated four short leagues from 
 Batalha. It was founded by Don Affonso Hen- 
 riqucs, in fulfilment of a vow made while be- 
 liegthg Santarem. Down to the time of th
 
 ALCOBAi. 350 
 
 suppression of the religious orders it was in the 
 possession of the Cistercian monks, who wer* 
 Lords of the surrounding country. It is said 
 that the royal founder endowed the monastery 
 by bestowing on it all the land, that could be 
 descried from the summit of a mountain in the 
 neighbourhood. These lands were well culti- 
 vated, and were let in small portions to the pea- 
 santry, who usually paid their rent in kind, and 
 not according to any stipulated amount, but only 
 in proportion to the produce of the year. Those, 
 who declaim against the opulence of the monks, 
 would do well, says Murphy, to enquire whe- 
 ther there be a nobleman or gentleman in Eu- 
 rope possessed of a revenue equal to that of this 
 monastery, who diffuses so many blessings among 
 his fellovvbeings, as did the fathers of Alcobaga. 
 Every stranger, he adds, who visited the convent, 
 was sure to meet with a polite and hospitable 
 reception. Many youths of the district were 
 maintained and educated. The superfluities of 
 the refectory were distributed among the pour', 
 and pittances were purposely prepared for them 
 twice a week, so that hundreds of indigent per- 
 sons were constantly fed at the gates. Besidet 
 this, this order,like the other rich religious orders, 
 paid three tenths of ill whole income annually
 
 451 ALCOBAgA. 
 
 to the state. The Cistercian houses alone paid 
 into the coffers of government eighty contos every 
 year. 
 
 The interior of the church is bnilt in the Nor- 
 man Gothic stylo. Its appearance on entering 
 is perhaps not lass grand and imposing than that 
 of Batalha. The nave and aisles are formed by 
 twenty six pillars, all of white marble, support- 
 ing pointed arches, and terminated at the bases 
 by scanty mouldings. At the east end a mag- 
 nificent glory is placed behind the High Altar, 
 at the distance of three hundred feet from the 
 entrance, The effect of this colossal ornament, 
 which is covered with gilding, is strikin gly grand, 
 especially whon illumined by the rays of the 
 sun, as it declines in the west. In a semicircle 
 round the High altar are seven chapels, closed 
 in front by iron railings. In one of these re- 
 pose the remains of the first abbot, who was 
 thf brother of the royal founder. 
 
 The exterior of the edifice by no means cor- 
 responds with the magnificence of the interior ; 
 at least the fagade is a complete anachronism 
 with the rest of the building, and appears to 
 ha-ve been the work of some blundering archi- 
 tect of the 17th. century. The choir was des- 
 troyed by the French, when they burnt -the
 
 ALCOBA$A. 
 
 greater part of the convent in their flight from 
 the lines of Torres Vedras. It was soon after 
 rebuilt at a cost of 100,000 crowns. 
 
 Perhaps the greatest object of attraction to 
 most travellers who visit Alcobacja are the tombs 
 of Don Peter and Ignez de Castro. Who has not 
 heard of Ignes de Castro ! The ardent affection 
 with which she was beloved by the prince, her 
 concealed marriage, her murder perpetrated by 
 the orders of her unnatural father-in-law, the 
 deep grief of her husband, and the steady un- 
 relenting vengeance with which he sought out 
 fcnd punished her murderers, have afforded in 
 almost every language a subject for the tragic 
 muse. Of the three wretches who perpetrated 
 the horrid deed, two only fell into his hands. 
 He caused the heart of one to be cut out through 
 his back, that of the other through his breast, 
 and while their bodies were being consumed in 
 the flames, he sat and dined by the light of the 
 funeral pile. Ignrz had been avenged } she had 
 not yet been honoured. Hn then caused her bo- 
 dy to be taken out of the grave, clothed with 
 robes of costly magnificence, placed on a royil 
 throne, and paid homage to as queen by th 
 proudest nobles of the land. It was thentran*- 
 ported from Coimbra toils present resting plc 
 Z Z 2
 
 ALCOBACA. 
 
 with a pomp, the like of which had never be- 
 fore been witnessed. At the foot of her tomb 
 he ordered another to be constructed for himself, 
 that jwhi'ii at the final day of doom they shall 
 arise from the dead, she may be the first object to 
 meet his eyes. 
 
 The sarcophagi are of white marble, sixteen 
 palms long, seven high, and five broad. Both 
 are covered with alto relievos, and delicate tra- 
 cery. The recumbent figures are larger than 
 life. That of Ignez is covered by a fringed robe 
 with short sleeves. The bare arms lie crossed 
 on her breast. The hands are long and slender, 
 but small in comparison with the size of the fi- 
 gure. The robe sits close on the body, and is 
 attached by clasps and antique buttons. One 
 of the hands has hold of the string of pearls 
 which binds the neck, the other is holding a 
 glove. The reader must excuse us for not giv- 
 ing a minute description of the face of this ce- 
 lebrated lady, as some ungallant Frenchman in 
 Massena's army has knocked off her nose, and 
 otherwise disfigured her features. But enough 
 till remains to show that it was intended by 
 the artist to be represented as extremely bcauti- 
 ful, and this we may easily believe, when we 
 remember that it wai done under the immediate
 
 ALCOlAfA. 56* 
 
 auperinJendance of Don Pedro himself,. who cer- 
 tainly was the beat judge of its resemblance to 
 the original. On the head is a royal crown, 
 and a small baldachin is spread out above. Six 
 angels surround the body. The tomb itself it 
 supported by six figures, intended to represent 
 sphinxes, though two only have heads of wo- 
 men. 
 
 The sarcophagus of Don Pedro is supported 
 by six lions. His severe and bearded face pre- 
 sents the same noble features, with which he it 
 represented in all ancient portraits. His body 
 is covered with a long fringed cloak, and his 
 hands are on his sword. At his feet lies a dog 
 which appears to be of king Charles's breed, part 
 of whose head has shared the fateoflgnez's nose. 
 The alto relievos on the four sides of both monu- 
 ments represent the last judgment, purgatory, 
 the last resurrection, and the sufferings of the 
 martyrs. 
 
 In the same mortuary chapel, and about th* 
 church, are found many other tombs ol royal 
 personages and their offspring, but they are too 
 insignificant to be described after the all-engroM- 
 ing interest attached to the monument* of 
 Pedro and Ignez do Caitro. 
 
 i ::-::' :/ .**];(
 
 155 OCCWBRINCE XT BA.TA.LHJl. 
 
 The convent which was rebuilt after the French 
 invasion has been suffered since the suppression 
 to fall into a state of dilapidation. It consists 
 of only one story, and contains thirty six win- 
 dows in front. The hospitality of the fathers of 
 Alcobaa was experienced and recorded with 
 gratitude by Murphy, who visited the place in 
 1789. The same hospitality was repaid with 
 sneers by Mr. Beckford, who went to Batalha 
 and Alcobaga in 1794. The account of an in- 
 cident witnessed by the latter on that occasion 
 ii so striking that I cannot forbear transcribing 
 it. It occurred at Batalha, where Mr. Beck- 
 ford passed only one night. He had retired to 
 rest. * l I had no wish, 1 ' he writes, "to sleep, 
 nd yet my pleasant retired chamber with clean 
 white walls, chequered with the reflection of 
 waving boughs, and the sound of a rivulet sof- 
 tened by distance, invited it soothingly. Seating 
 myself in the deep recess of a capacious win Jo\v 
 which was wide open, I suffered the balsamic 
 air and serene moonlight to quiet my agitated 
 pirits. One lonely nightingale had taken pos- 
 pssion of a bay-tree jus>t beneath me, and was 
 pouring forth its ecstatic notes at distant inter- 
 vals/' 
 
 'In one of those long pausei ; when silence
 
 OCCURRENCE AT B1TALHA. 
 
 itself, enhanced by contrast, seemed fo becomt 
 still deeper, a far different sound than the last 
 I had been listening to caught my ear, the 
 sound of a loud but melancholy voice echoing 
 through the arched avenues of a vast garden, pro- 
 nouncing distinctly these appalling words 
 "Judgment! Judgment! tremble at the anger 
 of an offended God ! Woe to Portugal ! woe ! 
 woe !" 
 
 " My hair stood on end I felt as if a spirit 
 were about to pass before me ^ but instead of 
 some fearful shape some horrid shadow, such 
 as appeared in vision to Eliphaz, there issued 
 forth from a thicket, a tall, majestic, deadly- 
 pale old man : he neither looked about nor 
 above him } he moved slowly on, his pye fixed 
 as stone, sighing profoundly } and at the dis- 
 tance of some fifty paces from the spot where I 
 was' stationed, renewed his doleful cry, his fatal 
 proclamation : "Woe ! woe 1 " resounded 
 through the still atmosphere, repeated by the 
 echoes of vaults and arches; and the sounds died 
 away, and the spectre-like form that seemed to 
 emit them ^retired, I know not how nor whither. 
 Shall I confess that my blood ran cold that all 
 idle, all wanton thoughts left my bosom, and 
 
 A A A
 
 167 OCCWBRINCE AT BATiLHi. 
 
 that I passed an hour or two at my window 
 fixed and immoveable ?" 
 
 "Just as day dawned, I crept to bed and fell 
 into a profound sleep, uninterrupted, I thank 
 Heaven, by dreams." 
 
 ** A delightful morning sun was shining 
 in all its splendour, when I awoke, and ran to 
 the balcony, to look at the garden and wild bills, 
 and to ask myself ten times over, whether the 
 form I had seen and the voice I had heard, were 
 real or imaginary.- 1 had scarcely dressed and 
 was preparing to sally forth, when a distinct 
 tap at my door, gentle but imperative, startled 
 me." 
 
 "The door opened, and the prior of Batalha 
 stood before me. You were disturbed, I fear, 
 aid he, in the dead of the night, by a wailful 
 voice, loudly proclaiming severe impending judg- 
 ments. I heard it also, and I shuddered, as I 
 always do when I hear it. Do not, however, 
 imagine that it proceeds from anotheY world. 
 The being who utters thpse dire sounds is still 
 upon the earth, a member of our convent an 
 exemplary, a most holy man a scion of one of 
 our greatest families, and a near relation of the 
 duke of Avciro, of whose dreadful agonizing 
 fate you must have heard. He was then in the
 
 ceoaaENcx AT UTAI.KA. I6S 
 
 pride of youth and comeliness, gay as sunshine, 
 volatile as you now appear to be. He had ac- 
 companied the devoted duke to a sumptuous ball 
 given by your nation to our high nobility : at 
 the very moment when splendour, triumph, and 
 merriment were at their highest pitch, the ex- 
 ecutioners of Pombal's decrees, soldiers, and ruf- 
 fians, pounced down upon tbeir prey ^ he too 
 was of the number arrested he too was thrown 
 into a deep, cold dungeon : his life was spared \ 
 and, in the course of years and events, the slen- 
 der, lovely youth, now become a wasted, care- 
 worn man, emerged to sorrow and loneliness." 
 u The blood of his dearest relatives teemed 
 sprinkled upon every object that met bis eyeij 
 he never passed Belem without fancying he be- 
 held, as in a sort of frightful dream, the scaf- 
 fold, the wheels on which those he best loved 
 had expired in torture. The current of his 
 young, hot blood was frozen \ he felt benumbed 
 and paralysed :, the world, the court, had no 
 charms for him } there was for him no longer 
 warmth in the sun, or smiles on the human 
 countenance , a stranger to love or fear, or any 
 interest on this side the grave, he gave up hit 
 entire soul to prayer :, and, to follow that a- 
 etcd occupation with greater intenicueti, ra*
 
 H9 OCCURRENCE AT BATALPU. 
 
 nounced every prospect of worldly comfort or 
 greatness, and embraced our order." 
 
 "Full eight and twenty years has he remained 
 within these walls, so deeply impressed- with the 
 conviction of the duke of Aveiro's innocence, the 
 atrocious falsehood of that pretended conspiracy, 
 and the consequent tyrannical expulsion of the 
 order of St. Ignatius, that he believes and the 
 belief of so pure and so devout a man is always 
 venerable that the horrors now perpetrating 
 in France are the direct consequence of that 
 event, and certain of being brought home to 
 Portugal j which kingdom he declares is fore- 
 doomed to desolation, and its royal bouse to 
 punishments worse than death." 
 "He seldom speaks:, he loathes conversation, 
 he spurns news of any kind, he shrinks from 
 strangers; he is constant at his duty in the choir 
 most severe in his fasts, vigils, and devout ob- 
 servances } he pays me canonical obedience no- 
 thing more: he is a living gravr, a walking 
 sepulchre. I dread to see or hear him } for every 
 time he crosses my path, beyond the immediate 
 precincts of our basilica, he makes a dead pause, 
 and repeats the same terrible words you heard 
 last night, with an astonishing earnestness, 
 as if commisioued by God himself to deliver
 
 OCCURRENCE AT llTALHA. 360 
 
 them. And, do you know, my lord sf ranger, 
 there are moments of my existence when I firmly 
 believe he speaks the words of prophetic truth : 
 and who, indeed, can reflect upon the unheard 
 of crimes committing in Franca the massacres, 
 the desecrations, th<? frantic bh?phamies, and 
 not believe th<;m? Yes, the arm of an avenging 
 God is stretched out, and the weight of impend- 
 ing judgment is most terrible.'' 
 
 " But what am I saying f why should I fill 
 youthful boom with such apprehensions? 
 her* to pray your forgiveness for last 
 night's annoyance } which would out have taken 
 place, had not the bustle of our preparations to 
 receive your illustrious and revered companions, 
 the Lord Priors, in th b st manner our hum- 
 ble m'Mns affir 1, itnp^dod &uch precautions as 
 might have induced our reverend brother to fore- 
 go, for once, his dreary nocturnal walk. I have 
 tried by persuasion to prevent it several times 
 before. To have absolutely forbid len it would 
 have been harsh nay, cruel, he gasps so piti- 
 ously for air: besides it might have been im- 
 pious to do so. I have taken opinions in chapter 
 upon this matter, which unanimously strengthem 
 my conviction that the spirit of the Most High 
 moves within him } nor dare we impsde iti ut- 
 terance." 
 
 A A 1 t
 
 161 4LD\I. 
 
 The only place of interest on the road from 
 Alcobaga to the Tagus is the town of the Cal- 
 das. Itderives its celebrity from a copious spring 
 of hydro-sulphuretted waters, which have proved 
 most beneficial to persons affected with rheu- 
 matism, or impaired digestion. It is annually 
 frequented by numbers of patients who go ther* 
 really for the purpose of being cured, and not 
 like many who frequent watering places in Eng- 
 land and elsewhere, for the sake of fashion or 
 amusement. Indeed independently of the baths, 
 the town and neighbourhood have nothing to re- 
 commend them. The water is received, as it 
 bubbles up from the spring, into two reservoirs or 
 baths, one for men and another for women. Th 
 hospital in connection with the baths was founded 
 by queen Leonor, wife of John II., in 1503. 
 
 FINIS.
 
 Historical sketch Great fire of 1872 De- 
 parture of Vasco da Gim.i Revolution of 1046 
 Erection of the Aqu -'duct The great earth- 
 quik'? of Lisbon Rebuilding of the city by tit* 
 Marquis of Pombal Conspiracy of 17GO Sup- 
 pression of the Jesuits Flight of the court 
 The French evacuate Lisbon Constitutional 
 codes See of Lisbon Illustrious men. page I. 
 
 First view of the city Tha river Cova da 
 Piedade General features of Lisbon Streets- 
 Cleanliness Environs South side of the T*- 
 gus 6. 
 
 Nobility Cbrgy- Merchants Lower orders 
 Costume Gallegos State of the army. . 70. 
 
 Manners Politeness Religious practicei 
 Customs Peculiarities, &c. . . . . 21. 
 
 Climate Population Commerce Police- 
 Courts of Judicature Municipal Chamber 
 Board of Health 94. 
 
 Praca do Cotnmercio Custom House Ex- 
 change Ministerial offices Tribunals, &c. 
 I>argo do Pelourinho Bank Arsenal. . 11*. 
 
 Lirgo do Corpo Santo Caes do Sodre Fisk 
 market Fort and Larpo dp S. Paulo Mint 
 Esporanga Palaca das Ncct?stdade Royal Fa- 
 mily. . ;;'-.. . i.
 
 3f>3 
 
 Bridge of Alcantara Calvario Royal coaches 
 
 Ropo walk Private resiliences B'-dpni quay 
 
 Ajuda Botanical garden Church of St. Jo- 
 gi.p'd Royal palace Church of St. Jcromo 
 Casa Pia Bom Succossu Bdein castle. 140. 
 
 CoiiLvi^ao Vellia St-te Casas Baths of the 
 AlcKj-trias Ohafarizd'EI Rei Cannon foundry 
 Ca'-i do Tojo Execution of criminals Ma- 
 drc de D-os Chabregas Grillas - Baato An- 
 tonio Marvilla 161. 
 
 Cliurch of Si. Mary Magdalen Horn an anti- 
 quities- St. Anthony Catherlra! Prison of the 
 A!j the Limoeirn St.G -or^e's castle St. Vin- 
 c-nt Th GriKji Nosin Senhora do Monte; 
 
 Penlia de Franja 178. 
 
 Vrtg.\ d/i FigUt'ira Praga de Don Pedro 
 Tii.'rtfr* af D,Mi'i.i Mirii II. St. Dominie's 
 H is pit a I of St. Jo* -'pii Public walks A.sylo d* 
 M -n Jieidii'i- -Military school Fira da Ladra. 
 Praoa <lo* Touros -Bimposta Arroios CP. 
 
 metery of St. John. 19^. 
 
 Bna Hora Cliiado Ruins of the Cartno 
 Public Library Academy of fine Arts ThcBtr* 
 f S. Carlos Church of the Martyrs Lorntto 
 Church of the Incarnation St. Roqin-'s 
 Chapel of St. John th Baptist Public gardens 
 f St. Pfti?r of Alcantara National Printing 
 office Collcgio dos Nobres Silk manufactory 
 ^R*8ervoir and Aqueduct 2QT. 
 
 Mansions of the Duke of Palmella, Marquis 
 nf Vallada nnd Count of Sobral General .Post- 
 e,ffic English College Museum Academy of 
 Iht SvtiK's Cortes Torre de Tombo s-
 
 8G2 
 
 trella English Brigittine convent Protestant 
 chapel and burial ground Cemetery dos Pra- 
 zeres. . 238. 
 
 Excursion to Cintra Bemfica Glueluz Ra- 
 malhao Cintra Queen's palace The Peua 
 Moorish Castle Cork convent Collates Pe- 
 dra d'Alvidrar Monserrat Penha Verde Si- 
 tiaes Mafra 252. 
 
 Excursion to the mouth of the river Gtuinta 
 of the Duke of Cadaval Cachias Suppressed 
 convents Pagod'Arcos Of iras Carcavellos 
 Cascaes St. Julian's Cachopos Bugio tower 
 Trafari a Costa Caparica Almada Ca- 
 cilhas % .... 291. 
 
 Excursion to Odivellas Campo Poqueno 
 Campo Grande Lumiar Laranjeiras Odi- 
 vellas Loures Cahega de Montaxique. 302. 
 
 Excursion toSt.Ubes Vallcde Zebro Coy- 
 na Woods Palmella St.Uljes Troya Ca- 
 puchin convent St. Margaret's cave Arrabida 
 Azeilao The Sado Salt pits Alcacer d 
 Sal 30. 
 
 Banks of the Tagus Alhandra Villa Fran- 
 ca Lesirias Villa Nova Santarcm Tbomar 
 Leiria .Uatalha Alcobaya Caldas . 3^7.
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 ote The editors are aware that several mis- 
 takes of groator or less magnitude are to be 
 met with in thu foregoing pagis. For these, 
 as almost unavoidable in a first edition, they 
 bp<r the roaderN indulgence. The most gla- 
 ring are the following 
 
 Pane 21 line 3 for Cintra read Canessas. 
 M 34 7 w Busaco n Pombal. 
 35 1 nephew son. 
 33 5 "shall cease'* read "has 
 
 Poge 1 33 line 1 1 for residence of the empress 
 read palaco of the family of Abrantes. 
 
 Page 151 line 9 far D. Aiphonso IV, read 
 D. Affbnso VE. 
 
 At pages IS 1-2 it is said that many beauti- 
 fttl gold and silver vessels and ornaments are to 
 l> snen at the mint. This was true a fewycar$ 
 ago. They are now elsewhere.
 
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