IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES BY THE SAME AUTHOR FRENCH MEN, WOMEN, AND BOOKS. Illustrated. Large 8vo. $2. 50 net. LITERARY RAMBLES IN FRANCE. Illustrated. Large 8 vo. $2. 50 net. HOME LIFE IN FRANCE. Illustrated. Fourth American printing. Large 8vo. $2.50 net. A. C. McCLURG & CO., PUBLISHERS. ;;\ [Frontispiece ST. ODILE Drawn by Georges Conrad IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES AND OTHER SKETCHES BY A "DEVIOUS TRAVELLER" BY MISS BETHAM-^DWARDS OFFICIER DE L'lNSTRUCTION PUBLIQUE DE FRANCE WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY SPECIAL PERMISSION "I travel not to look for Gascons in Sicily. I have left them at home." Montaigne. CHICAGO A. C. McCLURG & CO. LONDON: CHAPMAN & HALL, LTD. 1912 RICHARD CLAY & SONS, LIMITED, BRUNSWICK STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S E., AND BUNGAV, SUFFOLK. PREFATORY NOTE SOME of these sketches now appear for the first time, others have been published serially, whilst certain portions, curtailed or enlarged respectively, are reprinted from a former work long since out of print. Yet again I might entitle this volume, " Scenes from Unfrequented France," many spots being here described by an English traveller for the first time. My warmest thanks are due to M. Maurice Barres for permission to reproduce two illustra- tions by M. Georges Conrad from his famous romance, Au Service de I'Allemagne; also to M. Andre Hallays for the use of two views from his A Tr avers f Alsace; and to the publishers of both authors, MM. Fayard and Perrin, for their serviceableness in the matter. Nor must I omit to acknowledge my indebted- ness to Messrs. Sampson Low & Co., to whom I owe the reproduction of Gustave Dore's infantine tours de force; and to Messrs. Rivington, who 270625 vi PREFATORY NOTE have allowed large reprints from the work pub- lished by them over twenty years ago. And last but not least, I thank the Rev. Albert Cadier, the son of my old friend, the much respected pastor of Osse, for the loan of his charming photographs. CONTENTS CHAP. 'AGE I GERARDMER AND ITS ENVIRONS .... I II THE CHARM OF ALSACE . 3 1 III IN GUSTAVE DORA'S COUNTRY . -45 IV FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 71 V THE " MARVELLOUS BOY " OF ALSACE ... 97 VI QUISSAC AND SAUVE 121 VII AN IMMORTALIZER 139 VIII TOULOUSE 151 IX MONTAUBAN, OR INGRES-VILLE . . . .163 X MY PYRENEAN VALLEY AT LAST . . . .179 XI AN OLIVE FARM IN THE VAR . . . .229 XII PESSICARZ AND THE SUICIDES' CEMETERY . .253 XIII GUEST OF FARMER AND MILLER . . . .281 XIV LADY MERCHANTS AND SOCIALIST MAYORS . . 305 VU LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS To j ace f age ST. ODILE ...... Frontispiece PROVINS, GENERAL VIEW 2 PROVINS, THE CAPITOL 4 PROVINS, THE CITY WALLS 6 GERARDMER 8 A VOSGIAN SCENE 12 CIRQUE DE RETOURNEMER 14 THE PINNACLE OF ODILE ...... 64 ETTENHEIM 86 COLMAR 94 GUSTAVE DOR, INFANTINE SKETCH . . . -97 GUSTAVE DOR, DO. . . . . IOI OSSE 194 NEAR THE SPANISH FRONTIER 196 ORCUM 2l6 ARRAS, LA PETITE PLACE 294 viii I GfiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS GERARDMER AND ENVIRONS THE traveller bound to eastern France has a choice of many routes, none perhaps offering more attractions than the great Strasburg line by way of Meaux, Chalons-sur-Marne, Nancy, and fipinal. But the journey must be made leisurely. The country between Paris and Meaux is deservedly dear to French artists, and although Champagne is a flat region, beautiful only by virtue of fertility and highly developed agriculture, it is rich in old churches and fine architectural remains. By the Troyes-Belfort route, Provins may be visited. This is, perhaps, the most perfect specimen of the mediaeval walled-in town in France. To my think- ing, neither Carcassonne, Semur nor Guerande surpass Hegesippe Moreau's little birthplace in beauty and picturesqueness. The acropolis of Brie also possesses a long and poetic history, being the seat of an art-loving prince, and the haunt of troubadours. A word to the epicure as well as the archaeologist. The bit of railway from Chalons-sur-Marne to Nancy affords a series of gastronomic delectations. At Epernay travellers B 2 7 4 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES are just allowed time to drink a glass of cham- pagne at the buffet, half a franc only being charged. At Bar-le-Duc little neatly-packed jars of the raspberry jam for which the town is famous are brought to the doors of the railway carriage. Further on at Commercy, you are enticed to regale upon unrivalled cakes called " Madeleines de Commercy, 5 ' and not a town, I believe, of this favoured district is without its speciality in the shape of delicate cates or drinks. Chalons-sur-Marne, moreover, possesses one of the very best hotels in provincial France the hotel with the queer name another inducement for us to idle on the way. The town itself is in no way remarkable, but it abounds in mag- nificent old churches of various epochs some falling into decay, others restored, one and all deserving attention. St. Jean is especially note- worthy, its beautiful interior showing much ex- quisite tracery and almost a fanciful arrangement of transepts. It is very rich in good modern glass. But the gem of gems is not to be found in Chalons itself ; more interesting and beautiful than its massive cathedral and church of Notre Dame, than St. Jean even, is the exquisite church of Notre Dame de TEpine, situated in a poor hamlet a few miles beyond the octroi gates. We have here, indeed, a veritable cathedral in a GfiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS 5 wilderness, nothing to be imagined more graceful than the airy open colonnades of its two spires, light as a handful of wheat ears loosely bound together. The colour of the grey stone gives solemnity to the rest of the exterior, which is massive and astonishingly rich in the grotesque element. We carefully studied the gargoyles round the roof, and, in spite of defacements, made out most of them here a grinning demon with a struggling human being in its clutch- there an odd beast, part human, part pig, clothed in a kind of jacket, playing a harp dozens of comic, hideous, heterogeneous figures in various attitudes and travesties. Notre Dame de 1'fipine originally commem- orative of a famous shrine has been restored, and purists in architecture will pass it by as an achievement of Gothic art in the period of its decline, but it is extremely beautiful nevertheless. On the way from Chalons-sur-Marne to Nancy we catch glimpses of other noble churches that stand out from the flat landscape as imposingly as Ely Cathedral. These are Notre Dame of Vitry le Frangois and St. Etienne of Toul, formerly a cathedral, both places to be stopped at by leisurely tourists. The fair, the triste city of Nancy! There is an indescribable charm in the sad yet stately 6 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES capital of ancient Lorraine. No life in its quiet streets, no movement in its handsome squares, nevertheless Nancy is one of the wealthiest, most elegant cities in France ! Hither flocked rich Alsatian families after the annexation of Alsace- Lorraine, and perhaps its proximity to the lost provinces in part accounts for the subdued, dreamy aspect of the place as a whole. A strikingly beautiful city it is, with its splendid monuments of the house of Lorraine, and handsome modern streets bearing evidence of much prosperity in these days. In half-an-hour you may get an unforgettable glimpse of the Place Stanislas, with its bronze gates, fountains, and statue, worthy of a great capital ; of the beautiful figure of Duke Antonio of Lorraine, on horseback, under an archway of flamboyant Gothic; of the Ducal Palace and its airy colonnade; lastly, of the picturesque old city gate, the Porte de la Craffe, one of the most striking monuments of the kind in France. All these things may be glanced at in an hour, but in order to enjoy Nancy thoroughly a day or two should be devoted to it, and here, as at Chalons-sur-Marne, creature comforts are to be had in the hotels. In the Ducal Palace are shown the rich tapestries found in the tent of Charles le Temeraire after his defeat before Nancy, and GERARDMER AND ENVIRONS 7 other relics of that Haroun-al-Raschid of his epoch, who bivouacked off gold and silver plate, and wore on the battlefield diamonds worth half a million. In a little church outside the town, commemorative of this victory, are collected the cenotaphs of the Dukes of Lorraine the chapelle ronde, as the splendid little mausoleum is designated with its imposing monuments in black marble, and richly-decorated octagonal dome, making up a solemn and beautiful whole. Graceful and beautiful also are the monuments in the church itself, and those of another church, Des Cordeliers, close to the Ducal Palace. Nancy is especially rich in monumental sculp- ture, but it is in the cathedral that we are to be fairly enchanted by the marble statues of the four doctors of the church St. Augustine, St. Gregoire, St. Leon, and St. Jerome. These are the work of Nicolas Drouin, a native of Nancy, and formerly ornamented a tomb in the church of the Cordeliers just mentioned. The physiog- nomy, expression, and pose of St. Augustine are well worthy of a sculptor's closest study, but it is rather as a whole than in detail that this exquisite statue delights the ordinary observer. All four sculptures are noble works of art; the fine, dignified figure of St. Augustine some- how takes strongest hold of the imagination. We 8 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES would fain return to it again and again, as indeed we would fain return to all else we have seen in the fascinating city of Nancy. From Nancy by way of fipinal we may easily reach the heart of the Vosges. How sweet and pastoral are these cool resting- places in the heart of the Vosges ! Gerardmer and many another as yet unfrequented by the tourist world, and unsophisticated in spite of railways and bathing seasons. The Vosges has long been a favourite playground of our French neighbours, although ignored by the devotees of Cook and Gaze, and within late years, not a rustic spot possessed of a mineral spring but has become metamorphosed into a second Plom- bieres. Gerardmer " Sans Gerardmer et un peu 'Nancy, que serait la Lorraine ? " says the proverb is resorted to, however, rather for its rusticity and beauty than for any curative properties of its sparkling waters. Also in some degree for the sake of urban distraction. The French mind when bent on holiday-making is social in the extreme, and the day spent amid the forest nooks and murmuring streams of Gerardmer winds up with music and dancing. One of the chief attrac- tions of the big hotel in which we are so whole- somely housed is evidently the enormous salon GfiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS 9 given up after dinner to the waltz, country dance, and quadrille. Our hostess with much ease and tact looks in, paying her respects to one visitor after another, and all is enjoyment and mirth till eleven o'clock, when the large family party, for so our French fellowship may be called, breaks up. These socialities, giving as they do the amiable aspect of French character, will not perhaps constitute an extra charm of Gerardmer in the eyes of the more morose English tourist. After many hours spent in the open air most of us prefer the quiet of our own rooms. The country, too, is so fresh and delicious that we want nothing in the shape of social distraction. Drawing-room amenities seem a waste of time under such circumstances. Nevertheless the glimpses of French life thus obtained are pleasant, and make us realize the fact that we are off the beaten track, living among French folks, for the time separated from insular ways and modes of thought. Our fellowship is a very varied and animated one. We number among the guests a member of the French ministry a writer on the staff of Figaro a grandson of one of the most devoted and unfortunate generals of the first Napoleon, known as "the bravest of the brave," with his elegant wife the head of one of the largest commercial houses in eastern France 10 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES deputies, diplomats, artists, with many family parties belonging to the middle and upper ranks of society, a very strong Alsatian element pre- dominating. Needless to add that people make themselves agreeable to each other without any introduction. For the time being at least distinc- tions are set aside, and fraternity is the order of the day. I do not aver that my country-people have never heard of Gerardmer, but certainly those who stray hither are few and far between. Fortunately for the lover of nature no English writer has as yet popularized the Vosges. An Eden-like freshness pervades its valleys and forests, made ever musical with cascades, a pastoral simplicity characterizes its inhabitants. Surely in no corner of beautiful France can any one worn out in body or in brain find more refreshment and tranquil pleasure ! It is only of late years that the fair broad valley of Gerardmer and its lovely little lake have been made accessible by railway. Indeed, the popularity of the Vosges and its watering- places dates from the late Franco-German war. Rich French valetudinarians, and tourists gener- ally, have given up Wiesbaden and Ems from patriotic motives, and now spend their holidays and their money on French soil. Thus enterprise GfiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS 11 has been stimulated in various quarters, and we find really good accommodation in out-of-the- way spots not mentioned in guide-books of a few years' date. Gerardmer is now reached by rail in two hours from Epinal, on the great Stras- burg line, but those who prefer a drive across country may approach it from Plombieres, Remiremont, Colmar and Minister, and other attractive routes. Once arrived at Gerardmer, the traveller will certainly not care to hurry away. No site in the Vosges is better suited for excur- sionizing in all directions, and the place itself is full of quiet charm. There is wonderful sweet- ness and solace in these undulating hill-sides, clothed with brightest green, their little tossing rivers and sunny glades all framed by solemn hills I should rather say mountains pitchy black with the solemn pine. You may search far and wide for a picture so engaging as Gerardmer when the sun shines, its gold-green slopes sprinkled with white chalets, its red-roofed village clustered about a rustic church tower, and at its feet the loveliest little lake in the world, from which rise gently the fir-clad heights. And no monotony ! You climb the inviting hills and woods day by day, week after week, ever to find fresh enchantment. Not a bend of road or winding mountain-path but discloses a 12 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES new scene here a fairy glen, with graceful birch or alder breaking the expanse of dimpled green ; there a spinny of larch or of Scotch fir cresting a verdant monticule ; now we come upon a little Arcadian home nestled on the hill-side, the spinning-wheel hushed whilst the housewife turns her hay or cuts her patch of rye or wheat growing just outside her door. Now we follow the musical little river Vologne as it tosses over its stony bed amid banks golden with yellow loosestrife, or gently ripples amid fair stretches of pasture starred with the grass of Parnassus. The per- petual music of rushing, tumbling, trickling water is delightful, and even in hot weather, if it is ever indeed hot here, the mossy banks and babbling streams must give a sense of coolness. Deep down, entombed amid smiling green hills and frowning forest peaks, lies the pearl of Gerard- mer, its sweet lake, a sheet of turquoise in early morn, silvery bright when the noon-day sun flashes upon it, and on grey, sunless days gloomy as Acheron itself. Travellers stinted for time cannot properly enjoy the pastoral scenes, not the least charm of which is the frank, pleasant character of the people. Wherever we go we make friends and hear confidences. To these peasant folks, who live so secluded from the outer world, the annual GfiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS 13 influx of visitors from July to September is a positive boon, moral as well as material. The women are especially confidential, inviting us into their homely yet not poverty-stricken kitchens, keeping us as long as they can whilst they chat about their own lives or ask us questions. The beauty, politeness, and clear direct speech of the children, are remarkable. Life here is laborious, but downright want I should say rare. As in the Jura, the forest gorges and park-like solitudes are disturbed by the sound of hammer and wheel, and a tall factory chimney not infrequently spoils a wild landscape. The greater part of the people gain their livelihood in the manufactories, very little land here being suitable for tillage. Gerardmer is famous for its cheeses j another local industry is turnery and the weaving of linen, the linen manufactories employing many hands, whilst not a mountain cottage is without its handloom for winter use. Weaving at home is chiefly resorted to as a means of livelihood in winter, when the country is covered with snow and no out-door occupations are possible. Embroidery is also a special fabric of the Vosges, but its real wealth lies in mines of salt and iron, and mineral waters. One chief feature in Gerardmer is the congeries of handsome buildings bearing the inscription 14 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES " Ecole Communale" and how stringently the new educational law is enforced throughout France may be gathered from the spectacle of schoolboys at drill. We saw three squadrons, each under the charge of a separate master, evidently made up from all classes of the com- munity. Some of the boys were poorly, nay, miserably, clad, others wore good homely clothes, a few were really well dressed. Our first week at Gerardmer was wet and chilly. Fires and winter clothes would have been accept- able, but at last came warmth and sunshine, and we set off for the Col de la Schlucht, the grandest feature of the Vosges, and the goal of every traveller in these regions. There is a strange contrast between the calm valley of Gerardmer, a little haven of tranquil loveliness and repose, and the awful solitude and austerity of the Schlucht, from which it is separ- ated by a few hours only. Not even a cold grey day can turn Gerardmer into a dreary place, but in the most brilliant sunshine this mountain pass is none the less majestic and solemn. One obtains the sense of contrast by slow degrees, so that the mind is prepared for it and in the mood for it. The acme, the culminating point of Vosges scenery is thus reached by a gradually ascending scale of beauty and grandeur from the GERARDMER AND ENVIRONS 15 moment we quit Gerardmer, till we stand on the loftiest summit of the Vosges chain, dominating the Schlucht. For the first half-hour we skirt the alder-fringed banks of the tossing, foaming little river Vologne, as it winds amid lawny spaces, on either side the fir-clad ridges rising like ramparts. Here all is gentleness and golden calm, but soon we quit this warm, sunny region, and enter the dark forest road curling upwards to the airy pinnacle to which we are bound. More than once we have to halt on our way. One must stop to look at the cascade made by the Vologne, never surely fuller than now, one of the prettiest cascades in the world, masses of snow-white foam tumbling over a long, uneven stair of granite through the midst of a fairy glen. The sound of these rushing waters is long in our ears as we continue to climb the splendid moun- tain road that leads to the Schlucht, and nowhere else. From a giddy terrace cut in the sides of the shelving forest ridge we now get a prospect of the little lakes of Longuemer and Retourne- mer, twin gems of superlative loveliness in the wildest environment. Deep down they lie, the two silvery sheets of water with their verdant holms, making a little world of peace and beauty, a toy dropped amid Titanic awfulness and splendour. The vantage ground is on the edge 16 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES of a dizzy precipice, but the picture thus sternly framed is too exquisite to be easily abandoned. We gaze and gaze in spite of the vast height from which we contemplate it; and when at last we tear ourselves away from the engaging scene, we are in a region all ruggedness and sublimity, on either side rocky scarps and gloomy forests, with reminders by the wayside that we are approaching an Alpine flora. Nothing can be wilder or more solitary than the scene. For the greater part, the forests through which our road is cut are unfrequented, except by the wild boar, deer, and wild cat, and in winter time the fine mountain roads are rendered impenetrable by the accumulation of snow. This approach to the Col is by a tunnel cut in the granite, fit entrance to one of the wildest regions in France. The road now makes a sudden bend towards the chalet cresting the Col, and we are able in a moment to realize its tremendous position. From our little chalet we look upon what seems no mere cleft in a mountain chain, but in the vast globe itself. This huge hollow, brought about by some strange geological perturbation, is the valley of Minister, no longer a part of French territory, but of Prussian Elsass. The road we have come by lies behind us, but another as GfiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS 17 formidable winds under the upper mountain ridge towards Miinster, whilst the pedestrian may follow a tiny green footpath that will lead him thither, right through the heart of the pass. Looking deep down we discern here and there scattered chalets amid green spaces far away. These are the homesteads or chaumes of the herdsmen, all smiling cheerfulness now, but deserted in winter. Except for such little dwell- ings, barely discernible, so distant are they, there is no break in the solitary scene, no sign of life at all. The chalet is a fair hostelry for unfastidious travellers, its chief drawback being the pro- pensity of tourists to get up at three o'clock in the morning in order to behold the sunrise from the Hoheneck. Good beds, good food, and from the windows, one of the finest prospects in the world, might well tempt many to linger here in spite of the disturbance above mentioned. For the lover of flowers this halting-place would be delightful. Next morning the day dawned fair, and by eight o'clock we set off with a guide for the ascent of the Hoheneck, rather, I should say, for a long ramble over gently undulating green and flowery ways. After climbing a little beechwood, all was smoothness under our feet, and the long detour 18 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES we had to make in order to reach the summit was a series of the gentlest ascents, a wandering over fair meadow-land several thousand feet above the sea-level. Here we found the large yellow gentian, used in the fabrication of absinthe, and the bright yellow arnica, whilst instead of the snow-white flower of the Alpine anemone, the ground was now silvery with its feathery seed; the dark purple pansy of the Vosges was also rare. We were a month too late for the season of flowers, but the foxglove and the bright pink Epilobium still bloomed in great luxuriance. It was a walk to remember. The air was brisk and genial, the blue sky lightly flecked with clouds, the turf fragrant with wild thyme, and before our eyes we had a panorama every moment gaining in extent and grandeur. As yet indeed the scene, the features of which we tried to make out, looked more like cloudland than solid reality. On clear days are discerned here, far beyond the rounded summits of the Vosges chain, the Rhine Valley, the Black Forest, the Jura range, and the snow-capped Alps. To-day we saw grand masses of mountains piled one above the other, and higher still a pageantry of azure and gold that seemed to belong to the clouds. No morning could promise fairer, but hardly had we reached the goal of our walk when from GtiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS 19 far below came an ominous sound of thunder, and we saw heavy rain-clouds dropping upon the heights we had left behind. All hope of a fine prospect was now at an end, but instead we had a compensating spectacle. For thick and fast the clouds came pouring into one chasm after another, drifting in all directions, here a mere transparent veil drawn across the violet hills, there a golden splendour as of some smaller sun shining on a green little world. At one moment the whole vast scene was blurred and blotted with chill winter mist; soon a break was visible, and far away we gazed on a span of serene amethystine sky, barred with lines of bright gold. Not one, but a dozen, horizons a dozen heavens seemed there, whilst the thunder that reached us from below seemed too remote to threaten. But at last the clouds gathered in form and volume, hiding the little firmaments of violet and amber; the bright blue sky, bending over the green oasis all vanished as if by magic. We could see no more, and nothing remained but to go back, and the quicker the better. The storm, our guide said, was too far off to reach us yet, and we might reach the chalet without being drenched to the skin, as we fortunately did. No sooner, however, were we fairly under shelter than the rain poured down in torrents and the c 2 20 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES thunder pealed overhead. In no part of France are thunderstorms so frequent and so destructive as here, nowhere is the climate less to be depended on. A big umbrella, stout shoes, and a waterproof are as necessary in the Vosges as in our own Lake district. We had, however, a fine afternoon for our drive back, a quick downhill journey along the edge of a tremendous precipice, clothed with beech- trees and brushwood. A most beautiful road it is, and the two little lakes looked lovely in the sunshine, encircled by gold-green swards and a delicate screen of alder branches. Through pastures white with meadow-sweet the turbulent, crystal-clear little river Vologne flowed merrily, making dozens of tiny cascades, turning a dozen mill-wheels in its course. All the air was frag- rant with newly-turned hay, and never, we thought, had Gerardmer and its lake made a more captivating picture. Excursions innumerable may be made from Gerardmer. We may drive across country to Remiremont, to Plombieres, to Wesserling, to Colmar, to St. Die, whilst these places in turn make very good centres for excursions. On no account must a visit to La Bresse be omitted. This is one of the most ancient towns in the Vosges. Like some of the villages in the Morvan GfiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS 21 and in the department of La Nievre, La Bresse remained till the Revolution an independent commune, a republic in miniature. The heads of families of both sexes took part in the election of magistrates, and from this patriarchal legislation there was seldom any appeal to the higher court- namely, that of Nancy. La Bresse is still a rich commune by reason of its forests and industries. The sound of the mill-wheel and hammer now disturbs these mountain solitudes, and although so isolated by natural position, this little town is no longer cut off from cosmopolitan influence. The little tavern is developing into a very fair inn. In the summer tourists from all parts of France pass through it, in carriages, on foot, occasionally on horseback. Most likely it now possesses a railway station, a newspaper kiosk, and a big hotel, as at Gerardmer ! As we drop down upon La Bresse after our climb of two hours and more, we seem to be at the world's end. Our road has led us higher and higher by dense forests and wild granite parapets, tasselled with fern and foxglove, till we suddenly wheel round upon a little straggling town mar- vellously placed. Deep down it lies, amid fairy- like greenery and silvery streams, whilst high above tower the rugged forest peaks and far- off blue mountains, in striking contrast. 22 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES The sloping green banks, starred with the grass of Parnassus, and musical with a dozen streams, the pastoral dwellings, each with its patch of flower garden and croft; the glades, dells and natural terraces are all sunny and gracious as can be; but round about and high above frown inaccessible granite peaks, and pitchy-black forest summits, impenetrable even at this time of the year. As we look down we see that roads have been cut round the mountain sides, and that tiny homesteads are perched wherever vantage ground is to be had, yet the impression is one of isolation and wildness. The town lies in no narrow cleft, as is the case with many little manufacturing towns in the Jura, but in a vast opening and falling back of the meeting hills and mountain tops, so that it is seen from far and wide, and long before it is approached. We had made the first part of our journey at a snail's pace. No sooner were we on the verge of the hills looking down upon La Bresse, than we set oif at a des- perate rate, spinning breathlessly round one mountain spur after another, till we were suddenly landed in the village street, dropped, as it seemed, from a balloon. A curious feature to be noted in all the places I have mentioned is the outer wooden casing of the houses. This is done as a protection against GfiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS 23 the cold, the Vosges possessing, with the Auvergne and the Limousin, the severest climate in France. La Bresse, like Gerardmer and other sweet valleys of these regions, is disfigured by huge factories, yet none can regret the fact, seeing what well-being these industries bring to the people. Beggars are numerous, but we are told they are strangers, who merely invade these regions during the tourist season. Remiremont, our next halting-place, may be reached by a pleasant carriage drive, but the railway is more convenient to travellers encum- bered with half-a-dozen trunks. The railway, moreover, cuts right through the beautiful valley of the Moselle a prospect which is missed by road. Remiremont is charming. We do not get the creature comforts of Gerardmer, but by way of compensation we find a softer and more genial climate. The engaging little town is indeed one of nature's sanatoriums. The streets are kept clean by swift rivulets, and all the air is fragrant with encircling fir-woods. Like Gerardmer and La Bresse, however, Remiremont lies open to the sun. A belt of flowery dells, terraced orchards, and wide pastures, amid which meanders the clear blue Moselle, girds it round about, and no matter which path you take, it is sure to lead to inviting prospects. The arcades lend a Spanish 24 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES look to the town, and recall the street architecture of Lons-le-Saunier and Arbois in the Jura. Flower gardens abound, and the general atmo- sphere is one of prosperity and cheerfulness. The historic interest of this now dead-alive little town centres around its lady abbesses, who for centuries held sovereign rule and state in their abbatial palace, at the present time the Hotel de Ville. These high-born dames, like certain temporal rulers of the sex, loved battle, and more than one chanomesse, when defied by feudal neighbours, mounted the breach and directed her people. One and all were of noble birth, and many doubtless possessed the intellectual distinc- tion and personal charm of Renan's Abbesse de Jouarre. There are beautiful walks about Remiremont, and one especial path amid the fragrant fir-woods leads to a curious relic of ancient time a little chapel formerly attached to a Lazar-house. It now belongs to the adjoining farm close by, a pleasant place, with flower-garden and orchard. High up in the woods dominating the broad valley in which Remiremont is placed are some curious prehistoric stones. But more inviting than the steep climb under a burning sun for the weather has changed on a sudden is the drive to the Vallee d'Herival, a drive so cool, so soothing, so GfiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS 25 delicious, that we fancy we can never feel heated, languid, or irritated any more. The isolated dwellings of the dalesfolk in the midst of tremendous solitudes little pastoral scenes such as Corot loved to paint and hemmed round by the sternest, most rugged nature, are one of the characteristics of Vosges scenery. We also find beside tossing rivers and glittering cascades a solitary linen factory or saw-mill, with the modern-looking villa of the employer, and clustered round it the cottages of the work-people. No sooner does the road curl again than we are once more in a solitude as complete as if we were in some primeval forest of the new world. We come suddenly upon the Vallee d'Herival, but the deep close gorge we gaze upon is only the beginning of the valley within valley we have come to see. Our road makes a loop round the valley so that we see it from two levels, and under two aspects. As we return, winding upwards on higher ground, we get glimpses of sunny dimpled sward through the dark stems of the majestic fir- trees towering over our head. There is every gradation of form and colour in the picture, from the ripe warm gold barring the branches of the firs, to the pale silveriness of their upper foliage; from the gigantic trees rising from the gorge below, each seeming to fill a chasm, to the airy, 26 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES graceful birch, a mere toy beside it. Rare butter- flies abound, but we see few birds. The hardy pedestrian is an enviable person here, for although excellent carriages are to be had, some of the most interesting excursions must be made on foot. I do not suppose that matters are very greatly changed in hotels here since my visit so many years ago. In certain respects travellers fare well. They may feast like Lucullus on fresh trout and on the dainty aniseed cakes which are a local speciality. But hygienic arrangements were almost prehistoric, and although politeness itself, mine host and hostess showed strange non- chalance towards their guests. Thus, when ring- ing and ringing again for our tea and bread and butter between seven and eight o'clock, the chamber not maid, but man informed us that Madame had gone to mass, and everything was locked up till her return. Even the fastidious tourist, however, will hardly care to exchange his somewhat rough and noisy quarters at Remiremont for the cosmo- politan comforts of Plombieres within such easy reach. It is a pretty drive of an hour and a half to Plombieres, and all is prettiness there its little park, its tiny lake, its toy town. It is surely one of the hottest places in the GfiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS 27 world, and like Spa, of which it reminds me, must be one of the most wearisome. Just such a promenade, with a sleepy band, just such a casino, just such a routine. This favourite resort of the third Napoleon has of late years seen many rivals springing up. Vittel, Bains, Bussang all in the Vosges yet it continues to hold up its head. The site is really charming, but so close is the valley in which the town lies, that it is a veritable hot- house, and the reverse, we should think, of what an invalid wants. Plombieres has always had illustrious visitors Montaigne, who upon several occasions took the waters here Maupertuis, Voltaire, Beaumarchais, the Empress Josephine, and a host of historic personages. But the emperor may be called the creator of Plombieres. The park, the fine road to Remiremont, the hand- some Bain Napoleon (now National), the church, all these owe their existence to him, and during the imperial visits the remote spot suffered a strange transformation. The pretty country road along which we met a couple of carriages yester- day became as brilliant and animated as the Bois de Boulogne. It was a perpetual coming and going of fashionable personages. The emperor used to drive over to Remiremont and dine at the little dingy commercial hotel, the best in the place, making himself agreeable to everybody. 28 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES But all this is past, and nowhere throughout France is patriotism more ardent or the demo- cratic spirit more alert than in the Vosges. The reasons are obvious. We are here on the borders of the lost provinces, the two fair and rich departments of Haut-Rhin and Bas- Rhin, now effaced from the map of France. Reminders of that painful severance of a vast population from its nationality are too vivid for a moment to be lost sight of. Many towns of the Vosges and of the ancient portion of Lorraine not annexed, such as Nancy, have been enriched by the immigration of large commercial firms from the other side of the new frontier. The great majority of Alsatians, by force of circum- stances and family ties, were compelled to remain French at heart, German according to law. The bitterness and intensity of this feeling, reined-in yet apparent, constitutes the one painful feature of Vosges travel. Of course there is a wide difference between the supporters of retalia- tion, such journals as L? Alsacien- Lor rain, and quiet folks who hate war, even more than a foreign domination. But the yearning towards the parent country is too strong to be overcome. No wonder that as soon as the holidays begin there is a rush of French tourists across the Vosges. From Strasburg, Metz, St. Marie aux GfiRARDMER AND ENVIRONS 29 Mines, they flock to Gerardmer and other family resorts. And if some Frenchwoman maybe, sober matron dons the pretty Alsatian dress, and dances the Alsatian dance with an exile like herself, the enthusiasm is too great to be described. Lookers-on weep, shake hands, embrace each other. For a brief moment the calmest are carried away by intensity of patriotic feeling. The social aspect of Vosges travel is one of its chief charms. You must here live with French people, whether you will or no. Insular reserve cannot resist the prevailing friendliness and good-fellowship. How long such a state of things will exist, who can say? Fortunately for the lover of nature, most of the places I have mentioned are too unobtrusive ever to become popular. " Nothing to see here, and nothing to do," would surely be the verdict of most globe- trotters even on sweet Gerardmer itself ! 'II THE CHARM OF ALSACE THE CHARM OF ALSACE THE notion of here reprinting my notes of Alsatian travel was suggested by a recent French work A tr avers V Alsace en ftdnant, from the pen of M. Andre Hallays. This delightful writer had already published several volumes dealing with various French provinces, more especially from an archaeological point of view. In his latest and not least fascinating ftdnerie he gives the experiences of several holiday tours in Germanized France. My own sojourns, made at intervals among French friends, annexes both of Alsace and Lorraine, were chiefly undertaken in order to realize the condition of the German Emperor's French subjects. But I naturally visited many picturesque sites and historic monuments in both, the forfeited territories being especially rich. Whilst volume after volume of late years have appeared devoted to French travel, holiday tourists innumerable jotting their brief experiences of well-known regions, strangely enough no English writer has followed my own example. No work has here appeared upon Alsace an'd D 33 34 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES Lorraine. On the other side of the Channel a vast literature on the subject has sprung up. Novels, travels, reminiscences, pamphlets on political and economic questions, one and all breathing the same spirit, continue to appear in undiminished numbers. Ardent spirits still fan the flame of revolt. The burning thirst for re-integration remains unquenched. Garbed in crape, the marble figure of Strasburg still holds her place on the Place de la Concorde. The French language, although rigidly prohibited throughout Germanized France, is studied and upheld more sedulously than before Sedan. And after the lapse of forty years a German minister lately averred that French Alsatians were more French than ever. Les Noellets of Rene Bazin, M. Maurice Barres' impassioned series, Les Bastions de VEst, enjoy immense popularity, and within the last few months have appeared two volumes which fully confirm the views of their forerunners M . H allays' impressions of many wayfarings and Apres quarante ans by M. Jules Claretie, the versatile, brilliant and much respected administrator- general of the Comedie Francaise. Whilst in these days of peace and arbitration propaganda the crime of enforced denationaliza- tion seems more heinous than ever, there appears THE CHARM OF ALSACE 35 little likelihood of the country conquered by Louis XIV., and re-conquered by German arms a century and a half later, again waving the Tricolour. Let us hope, however, that some via media may be found, and that if not recovering its lost privilege, the passionately coveted French name, as a federal state Alsace and Lorraine may become independent and prosperous. For a comprehensive study of Alsace and its characteristics, alike social, artistic and intellec- tual, readers must go to M. Hallays' volume. In every development this writer shows that a special stamp may be found. Neither Teutonic nor Gallic, art and handicrafts reveal indigenous growth, and the same feature may be studied in town and village, in palace, cathedral and cottage. We must remember that we are here dealing with a region of very ancient civilization. Taste has been slowly developed, artistic culture is of no mushroom growth. Alsace formed the high- road between Italy and Flanders. In M. Hallays' words, already during the Renaissance, aesthetic Alsace blended the lessons of north and south, her genius was a product of good sense, experi- ence and a feeling of proportion. And he points out how in the eighteenth century French taste influenced Alsatian faience, woven stuffs, iron- D 2 36 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES work, sculpture, wood-carving and furniture, even peasant interiors being thereby modified. "Alsace," he writes, "holds us spell-bound by the originality of culture and temperament found among her inhabitants. It has generally been taken for granted that native genius is here a mere blend of French and German character, that Alsatian sentiment appertains to the latter stock, intellectual development to the former, that the inhabitants think in French and imagine in German. There is a certain leaven of truth in these assumptions, but when we hold continued intercourse with all classes, listen to their speech, familiarize ourselves with their modes of life and mental outlook, we arrive again and again at one conclusion : we say to ourselves, here is an element which is neither Teutonic nor Gallic. I cannot undertake to particularize, I only note in my pages those instances that occur by the way. And the conviction that we are here penetrating a little world hitherto unknown to us, such novelty being revealed in every stroll and chat, lends extraordinary interest to our peregrination." It is especially an artistic Alsace that M. Hallays reveals to us. Instead of visit- ing battlefields, he shows us that English travellers may find ample interest of other kind. The artist, the ecclesiologist, the art-loving have THE CHARM OF ALSACE 87 here a storehouse of unrevealed treasure. A little-read but weighty writer, Mme. He Stael, has truly averred that the most beautiful lands in the world, if devoid of famous memories and if bear- ing no impress of great events, cannot be compared in interest to historic regions. Hardly a spot of the annexed provinces but is stamped with in- delible and, alas ! blood-stained records. From the tenth century until the peace of Westphalia, these territories belonged to the German empire, being ruled by sovereign dukes and princes. In 1648 portions of both provinces were cede'd to France, and a few years later, in times of peace, Strasburg was ruthlessly seized and appropriated by the arch-despot and militarist, Louis XIV. By the treaty of Ryswick, that of Westphalia was ratified, and thenceforward Alsace and Lorraine remained radically and passionately French. In 1871 was witnessed an awful historic retribution, a political crime paralleling its pre- decessor committed by the French king two cen- turies before. Alsace-Lorraine still awaits the fulfilment of her destiny. Meantime, as Rachel mourning for her children, she weeps sore and will not be comforted. Historically speaking, therefore, the annexed provinces present a strangely complex patchwork and oft-repeated palimpsest, civilization after 38 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES civilization overlapping each other. If Alsace- Lorraine has produced no Titan either in literature or art, she yet shows a goodly roll- call. The name heading the list stands for France herself. It was a young soldier of Strasburg not, however, Alsatian born who, in April, 1792, composed a song that saved France from the fate of Poland and changed the current of civilization. By an irony of destiny the Tricolour no longer waves over the cradle of the Marseillaise ! That witty writer, Edmond About, as well as the " Heavenly Twins " of Alsatian fiction, was born in Lorraine, but all three so thoroughly identified themselves with this province that they must be regarded as her sons. Those travellers who, like myself, have visited Edmond About' s woodland retreat in Saverne can understand the bitterness with which he penned his volume Alsace 1870-1 and the concluding lines of the preface " If I have here uttered an untrue syllable, I give M. de Bismarck permission to treat my modest dwelling as if it were a villa of Saint Cloud." The literary brethren whose pictures of Alsa- tian peasant life, both in war and peace, have become world-wide classics, suffered no less than THE CHARM OF ALSACE 39 their brilliant contemporary, and their works written after annexation breathe equal bitter- ness. The celebrated partnership which began in 1848 and lasted for a quarter of a century, has been thus described by Edmond About : " The two friends see each other very rarely, whether in Paris or in the Vosges. When they do meet, they together elaborate the scheme of a new work. Then Erckmann writes it. Chatrian corrects it and sometimes puts it in the fire ! " One at least of their plays enjoys equal popularity with the novel from which it is drawn. To have witnessed L'Ami Frits at Moliere's house in the last decade of the nineteenth century was an experience to remember. That consummate artist, Got, was at his very best if the superlative in such a case is applicable as the good old Rabbi. No less enchanting was Mile. Reichen- bach, the doyenne of the Comedie Frangaise, as Suzel. Of this charming artist Sarcey wrote that, having attained her sixteenth year, there she ma r de the long-stop, never oldening with others. UAmi 'Fritz is, in reality, a German bucolic, the scene being laid in Bavaria. But it has long been accepted as a classic, and on the stage it becomes thoroughly French. This delightful story was written in 1864, that is to say, before any war- cloud had arisen over the eastern frontier, and 40 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES before the evocation of a fiend as terrible, the anti-Jewish crusade culminating in the Dreyfus crime. It is painful to reflect that whilst twenty years ago the engaging old Jew of this piece was vociferously acclaimed on the first French stage, the drama of a gifted Jewish writer has this year been banned in Paris ! Edmond About and Erckmann and Chatrian belong to the same period as another native, and more famous, genius, the precocious, superabun- dantly endowed Gustave Dore. Of this " admir- able Crichton " I give a sketch. For mere holiday-makers in search of exhilara- tion and beauty, Alsace offers attractions innumer- able, sites grandiose and idyllic, picturesque ruins, superb forests, old churches of rare interest and many a splendid historic pile. There are naturally drawbacks to intense lovers of France. Throughout M. Hallays 5 volume he acknowledges the courtesy of German officials, a fact to which I had borne testimony when first journalizing my own experiences. Certain aspects of enforced Germanization can but afflict all out- siders. There is firstly that obtrusive militarism from which we cannot for a moment escape. Again, a no less false note strikes us in matters aesthetic. Modern German taste in art, archi- THE CHARM OF ALSACE 41 tecture and decoration do not harmonize with the ancientness and historic severity of Alsace. The restoration of Hohkonigsburg and the new quarters of Strasburg are instances in point. All who visited the German art section of the Paris Exhibition in 1900 will understand this dis- harmony. The reminiscences of my second and third journeys in Alsace and Lorraine having already appeared in volume form, still in print (East of t Paris), are therefore omitted here. For the benefit of English travellers in the annexed portion of the last-named province I cite a passage from M. Maurice Barres' beautiful story, Colette Baudoche. His hero is German and his heroine French, a charming Messlne or native of Metz. In company of Colette's mother and a friend or two, the fiances take part in a little festival held at Gorze, a village near the blood-stained fields of Gravelotte and Mars-la-Tour "At Gorze, church, lime-trees, dwellings and folks belong to the olden time, that is to say, all are very French. ... In crossing the square the five holiday-makers halted before the Hotel de Ville and read with interest a commemorative inscription on the walls. A tablet records English generosity in 1870, when, after the carnage and devastation of successive battles, money, roots 42 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES and seeds were distributed among the peasants by a relief committee. The inspection over, the little party gaily sat clown to dinner in an inn close by, regaling themselves with fried English potatoes, descendants of those sent across the Manche forty years before." As I re-read this passage I think sadly how the tribute from such a pen would have rejoiced the two moving spirits of that famous relief com- mittee Sir John Robinson and Mr. Bullock Hall, both long since passed away. To the whilom editor of the Daily News both initiative and realization were mainly owing, the latter being the laborious and devoted agent of distribution. But an omission caused bitterness. Whilst Mr. Bullock Hall most deservedly received the Red Ribbon, his leader was overlooked. The tens of thousands of pounds collected by Sir John Robin- son which may be said to have kept alive starving people and vivified deserts, were gratefully acknowledged by the French Government. By some unaccountable misconception, the decora- tion here only gratified one good friend of France. "I should much have liked the Legion of Honour," sighed the kindly old editor to me, a year or two before he Hied. I add that my second sojourn in Alsace-Lorraine was made at Sir John's suggestion, the series of THE CHARM OF ALSACE 43 papers dealing with Metz, Strasburg, and its neighbourhood appearing from day to day in the Daily News. English tourists must step aside and read the tablet on the Hotel de Ville of Gorze, reminder, by the way, of the Entente Cordiale ! Ill IN GUSTAVE DORE'S COUNTRY IN GUSTAVE DORfi'S COUNTRY THE Vosges and Alsace-Lorraine must be taken together, as the tourist is constantly com- pelled to zigzag across the new frontier. Many of the most interesting points of departure for excursionizing in the Vosges lie in Alsace- Lorraine, while few travellers who have got so far as Gerardmer or St. Die will not be tempted to continue their journey, at least as far as the beautiful valleys of Miinster and St. Marie-aux- Mines, both peopled by French people under German domination. Arrived at either of these places, the tourist will be at a loss which route to take of the many open to him. On the one hand are the austere sites of the Vosges, impenetrable forests darkening the rounded mountain tops, granite precipices silvered with perpetual cas- cades, awful ravines hardly less gloomy in the noonday sun than in wintry storms, and as a relief to these sombre features, the sunniest little home- steads perched on airy terraces of gold-green; crystal streams making vocal the flowery meadow and the mossy dell, and lovely little lakes shut in 47 48 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES by rounded hills, made double in their mirror. In Alsace-Lorraine we find a wholly different land- scape, and are at once reminded that we are in one of the fairest and most productive districts of Europe. All the vast Alsatian plain in September is a-bloom with fruit garden and orchard, vineyard and cornfield, whilst as a gracious framework, a romantic background to the picture, are the vine- clad heights crested with ruined castles and fortresses worthy to be compared to Heidelberg and Ehrenbreitstein. We had made a leisurely journey from Gerardmer to St. Die, bishopric and chef -lieu of the department of the Vosges, with- out feeling sure of our next move. Fortunately a French acquaintance advised us to drive to St. Marie-aux-Mines, one of the most wonderful little spots in these regions, of which we had never before heard. A word or two, however, concern- ing St. Die itself, one of the most ancient monastic foundations in France. The town is pleasant enough, and the big hotel not bad, as French hotels go. But in the Vosges, the tourist gets somewhat spoiled in the matter of hotels. Wherever we go our hosts are so much interested in us, and make so much of us, that we feel aggrieved at sinking into mere numbers three or four. Many of these little inns offer homely accommodation, but the landlord and landlady IN GUSTAVE BORE'S COUNTRY 49 themselves wait upon the guests, unless, which often happens, the host is cook, no piece of ill- fortune for the traveller! These good people have none of the false shame often conspicuous among the same class in England. At Remire- mont, our hostess came bustling down at the last moment saying how she had hurried to change her dress in order to bid us good-bye. Here the son-in-law, a fine handsome fellow, was the cook, and when dinner was served he used to emerge from his kitchen and chat with the guests or play with his children in the cool evening hour. There is none of that differentiation of labour witnessed in England, and on the whole the stranger fares none the worse. With regard to French hotels generally the absence of competition in large towns strikes an English mind. At St. Die, as in many other places, there was at the time of my visit but one hotel, which had doubtless been handed down from generation to generation, simply because no rival aroused a spirit of emulation. St. Die has a pleasant environment in the valley of the Meurthe, and may be made the centre of many excursions. Its picturesque old Roman- esque cathedral of red sandstone, about which are grouped noble elms, grows upon the eye; more interesting and beautiful by far are the Gothic cloisters leading from within to the smaller 50 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES church adjoining. These delicate arcades, in part restored, form a quadrangle. Greenery fills the open space, and wild antirrhinum and harebell brighten the grey walls. Springing from one side is an out-of-door pulpit carved in stone, a striking and suggestive object in the midst of the quiet scene. We should like to know what was preached from that stone pulpit, and what manner of man was the preacher. The bright green space, the delicate arcades of soft grey, the bits of foliage here and there, with the two silent churches blocking in all, make up an impressive scene. We wanted the country, however, rather than the towns, so after a few days at St. Die, hired a carriage to take us to St. Marie-aux-Mines or Markirch, on the German side of the frontier, and not accessible from this side by rail. We enter Alsace, indeed, by a needle's eye, so narrow the pass in which St. Marie lies. Here a word of warning to the tourist. Be sure to examine your carriage and horses well before starting. We were provided for our difficult drive with what Spenser calls "two unequal beasts," namely, a trotting horse and a horse that could only canter, with a very uncomfortable carriage, the turnout costing over a pound pretty well, that, for a three hours' drive. However, in spite of dis- IN GUSTAVE DORfi'S COUNTRY 51 comfort, we would not have missed the journey on any account. The site of this little cotton-spinning town is one of the most extraordinary in the world. We first traverse a fruitful, well cultivated plain, watered by the sluggish Meurthe, then begin to ascend a spur of the western chain of the Vosges, formerly dividing the two French departments of Vosges and Haut Rhin, now marking the boun- daries of France and German Elsass. Down below, amid the hanging orchards, flower-gardens and hayfields, we were on French soil, but the flagstaff, just discernible on yonder green pinnacles, marks the line of demarcation between France and the conquered territory of the German empire. For the matter of that, the Prussian helmet makes the fact patent. As surely as we have set foot in the Reich, we see one of these gleaming casques, so hateful still in French eyes. They seem to spring from the ground like Jason's warriors from the dragon's teeth. This new frontier divided in olden times the dominions of Alsace and Lorraine, when it was the custom to say of many villages that the bread was kneaded in one country and baked in the other. Nothing could be more lovely than the dim violet hills far away, and the virginal freshness of the pastoral scenery around. But only a stout- hearted pedestrian can properly enjoy this beau- E 2 52 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES tiful region. We had followed the example of another party of tourists in front of us, and accom- plished a fair climb on foot, and when we had wound and wound our way up the lofty green mountain to the flagstaff before mentioned, we wanted to do the rest of our journey on foot also. But alike compassion for the beasts and energy had gone far enough, we were only too glad to reseat ourselves, and drive, or rather be whirled, down to St. Marie-aux-Mines in the vehicle. Do what we would there was no persuading our driver to slacken pace enough so as to admit of a full enjoyment of the prospect that unfolded before us. The wonderful little town ! Black pearl set in the richest casket ! This commonplace, flourish- ing centre of cotton spinning, woollen, and cretonne manufacture, built in red brick, lies in the narrow, beautiful valley of the Liepvrette, as it is called from the babbling river of that name. But there is really no valley at all. The congeries of red-roofed houses, factory chimneys and church towers, Catholic and Protestant, is hemmed round by a narrow gorge, wedged in between the hills which are just parted so as to admit of such an intrusion, no more. The green convolutions of the mountain sides are literally folded round the town, a pile of green velvet IN GUSTAVE DORA'S COUNTRY 53 spread fan-like in a draper's window has not softer, neater folds ! As we enter it from the St. Die side we find just room for a carriage to wind along the little river and the narrow street. But at the other end the valley opens, and St. Marie- aux-mines spreads itself out. Here are factories, handsome country houses, and walks up-hill and down-hill in abundance. Just above the town, over the widening gorge, is a deliciously cool pine-wood which commands a vast prospect the busy little town caught in the toils of the green hills ; the fertile valley of the Meurthe as we gaze in the direction from which we have come;; the no less fertile plains of Lorraine before us; close under and around us, many a dell and woodland covert with scattered homes of dalesfolk in sunny places and slanting hills covered with pines. It is curious to reflect that St. Marie-aux-Mines, mentioned as Markirch in ancient charts, did not become entirely French till the eighteenth century. Originally the inhabitants on the left bank of the Liepvrette were subjects of the Dukes of Lorraine, spoke French, and belonged to the Catholic persuasion, whilst those dwelling on the right bank of the river, adhered to the seigneury of Ribeaupaire, and formed a Protestant German- speaking community. Alsace, as everybody knows, was annexed to France by right rather 54 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES wrong of conquest under Louis XIV., but it was not till a century later that Lorraine became a part of French territory, and the fusion of races, a task so slowly accomplished, has now to be undone, if, indeed, such undoing is possible ! The hotel here is a mere auberge adapted to the needs of the commis-voyageur, but our host and hostess are charming. As is the fashion in these parts, they serve their guests and take the greatest possible interest in their movements and comfort. We would willingly have spent some days at Marie-aux-Mines no better head- quarters for excursionizing in these regions ! but too much remained for us to do and to see in Alsace. We dared not loiter on the way. Everywhere we find plenty of French tourists, many of them doing their holiday travel in the most economical fashion. We are in the habit of regarding the French as a stay-at-home nation, and it is easy to see how such a mistake arises. English people seldom travel in out-of-the-way France, and our neighbours seldom travel else- where. Thus holiday-makers of the two nations do not come in contact. Wherever we go we encounter bands of pedestrians or family parties thoroughly enjoying themselves. Nothing ruffles a French mind when bent on holiday-making. The good-nature, bonhomie, and accommodating IN GUSTAVE DORfi'S COUNTRY 55 spirit displayed under trying circumstances might be imitated by certain insular tourists with advantage. From St. Marie-aux-Mines we journeyed to Gustave Dore's favourite resort, Barr, a close, unsavoury little town enough, but in the midst of bewitching scenery. " An ounce of sweet is worth a pound of sour," sings Spenser, and at Barr we get the sweet and the sour strangely mixed. The narrow streets smell of tanneries and less whole- some nuisances, not a breath of fresh pure air is to be had from one end of the town to the other. But our pretty, gracious landlady, an Alsacienne, and her husband, the master of the house and chef de cuisine as well, equally hand- some and courteous, took so much pains to make us comfortable that we stayed on and on. Not a thousand bad smells could drive us away ! Yet there is accommodation for the traveller among the vineyards outside the town, and also near the railway station, so Barr need not be avoided on account of its unsavouriness. No sooner are you beyond the dingy streets than all is beauty, pastoralness and romance. Every green peak is crested with ruined keep or tower, at the foot of the meeting hills lie peaceful little villages, each with its lofty church spire, whilst all the air is fragrant with pine-woods and newly turned hay. 56 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES These pine-woods and frowning ruins set like sentinels on every green hill or rocky eminence, recall many of Dore's happiest efforts. " Le pauvre garcon" our hostess said. " Comme il etait content chez nous ! )} I can fancy how Dore would enjoy the family life of our little old- fashioned hotel, how he would play with the children, chat with master and mistress, and make himself agreeable all round. One can also fancy how animated conversation would become if it chanced to take a patriotic turn. For people speak their thoughts in Alsace, nowhere more freely. In season and out of season, the same sentiment conies to the surface. "Nous sommes -plus Francais que les Franfais" This is the universal expression of feeling that greeted our ears throughout our wanderings. Such, at least, was formerly the case. The men, women and children, rich and poor, learned and simple, gave utterance to the same expression of feeling. Barr is a town of between six and seven thousand souls, about twenty of whom are Prussians. A pleasant posi- tion, truly, for the twenty officials ! And what we see at Barr is the case throughout the newly acquired German dominion. Alike the highest as well as the humblest functionary of the imperial government is completely shut off from inter- course with his French neighbours. IN GUSTAVE DORA'S COUNTRY 57 Barr lies near so much romantic scenery that the tourist in these parts had better try the little hotel amid the mines. For, in spite of the pictur- esque stork's nest close by, an excellent ordinary and the most delightful host and hostess in the world, I cannot recommend a sojourn in the heart of the town. The best plan of all were to halt here simply for the sake of the excursion to St. Odile St. Odile leads nowhither then hire a carriage, and make leisurely way across country by the Hohwald, and the Champ de Feu to Rothau, Oberlin's country, thence to Strasburg. In our own case, the fascinations of our hosts overcame our repugnance to Barr itself, so we stayed on, every day making long drives into the fresh, quiet, beautiful country. One of the sweet spots we discovered for the benefit of any English folks who may chance to stray in that region is the Hohwald, a ville giatura long in vogue with the inhabitants of Strasburg and neighbouring towns, but not mentioned in any English guide- book at the time of my visit. We are reminded all the way of Rhineland. The same terraced vineyards, the same limestone crags, each with its feudal tower, the same fertility and richness everywhere. Our road winds for miles amid avenues of fruit-trees, laden with pear and plum, whilst on every side are stretches of flax 58 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES and corn, tobacco and hemp. What plenty and fruitfulness are suggested at every turn ! Well might Goethe extol "this magnificent Alsace." We soon reach Andlau, a picturesque, but, it must be confessed, somewhat dirty village, lying amid vineyards and chestnut woods, with mediaeval gables, archways, wells, dormers. All these are to be found at Andlau, also one of the finest churches in these parts. I followed the cure and sacristan as they took a path that wound high above the village and the little river amid the vineyards, and obtained a beautiful picture; hill and dale, clustered village and lofty spire, and im- posingly, confronting us at every turn, the fine fagade of the castle of Andlau, built of grey granite, and flanked at either end with massive towers. More picturesque, but less majestic are the neighbouring ruins of Spesburg, mere tumbling walls wreathed with greenery, and many another castled crag we see on our way. We are indeed in the land of old romance. Nothing imaginable more weird, fantastic and sombre, than these spectral castles and crumbling towers past count- ing ! The wide landscape is peopled with these. They seem to rise as if by magic from the level landscape, and we fancy that they will disappear magically as they have come. And here again one wild visionary scene after another reminds IN GUSTAVE DORE'S COUNTRY 59 us that we are in the land of Bore's most original inspiration. There are bits of broken pine-wood, jagged peaks and ghostly ruins that have been already made quite familiar to us in the pages of his Dante and Don Quixote. The pretty rivulet Andlau accompanies us far on our way, and beautiful is the road ; high above, beech- and pine-woods, and sloping down to the road green banks starred with large blue and white campanula, with, darkling amid the alders, the noisy little river. The Hohwald is the creation of a woman ; that is to say, the Hohwald of holiday-makers, tourists and tired brain-workers. "Can you imagine," wrote M. Edmond About, forty years ago, "an inn at the world's end that cost a hundred thou- sand francs in the building? I assure you the owner will soon have recouped her outlay. She had not a centime to begin with, this courageous lady, left a widow without resources, and a son to bring up. The happy thought occurred to her of a summer resort in the heart of these glorious woods, within easy reach of Strasburg." There are gardens and reception-rooms in common, and here as at Gerardmer croquet, music and the dance offer an extra attraction. It must be admitted that these big family hotels, in attractive country places with prices adapted to all travel- 60 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES lers, have many advantages over our own seaside lodgings. People get much more for their money, better food, better accommodation, with agreeable society into the bargain, and a relief from the harass of housekeeping. The children, too, find companionship, to the great relief of parents and nursemaids. The Hohwald proper is a tiny village number- ing a few hundred souls, situated in the midst of magnificent forests at the foot of the famous Champ de Feu. This is a plateau on one of the loftiest summits of the Vosges, and very curious from a geological point of view. To explore it properly you must be a good pedestrian. Much, indeed, of the finest scenery of these regions is beyond reach of travellers who cannot walk five or six hours a day. Any one, however, may drive to St. Odile, and St. Odile is the great excursion of Alsace. Who cares a straw for the saint and her story now? But all tourists must be grateful to the Bishop of Strasburg, who keeps a comfortable little inn at the top of the mountain, and, beyond the pro- hibition of meat on fast-days, smoking, noise and levity of manner on all days, makes you very comfortable for next to nothing. The fact is, this noble plateau, commanding as splendid a natural panorama as any in Europe, IN GUSTAVE BORE'S COUNTRY 61 at the time I write of the property of Monseigneur of Strasburg, was once a famous shrine and a convent of cloistered men and women vowed to sanctity and prayer. The convent was closed at the time of the French Revolution, and the entire property, convent, mountain and prospect, re- mained in the hands of private possessors till 1853, when the prelate of that day repurchased the whole, restored the conventual building, put in some lay brethren to cultivate the soil, and some lay sisters, who wear the garb of nuns, but have taken no vows upon them except of piety, to keep the little inn and make tourists comfortable. No arrangement could be better, and I advise any one in want of pure air, superb scenery, and complete quiet, to betake himself to St. Odile. Here again I must intercalate. Since these lines were jotted down, many changes, and appar- ently none for the better, have taken place here. Intending tourists must take both M. Hallays' volume and Maurice Barres 3 Au Service d'Allemagne for recent accounts of this holiday resort. The splendid natural features remain intact. The way from Barr lies through prosperous villages, enriched by manufactories, yet abound- ing in pastoral graces. There are English-like parks and fine chateaux of rich manufacturers; 62 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES but contrasted with these nothing like abject poverty. The houses of working-folk are clean, each with its flower-garden, the children are neatly dressed, no squalor or look of discontent to be seen anywhere. Every hamlet has its beautiful spire, whilst the country is the fairest, richest conceivable; in the woods is seen every variety of fir and pine, mingled with the lighter foliage of chestnut and acacia, whilst every orchard has its walnut and mulberry trees, not to speak of pear and plum. One of the chief manufactures of these parts is that of paints and colours : there are also ribbon and cotton factories. Rich as is the country naturally, its chief wealth arises from these industries. In every village you hear the hum of machinery. You may lessen the distance from Barr to St. Odile by one-half if you make the journey on foot, winding upwards amid the vine-clad hills, at every turn coming upon one of those grand old ruins, as plentiful here as in Rhineland, and quite as romantic and beautiful. The drive is a slow and toilsome ascent of three hours and a half. As soon as we quit the villages and climb the mountain road cut amid the pines, we are in a superb and solitary scene. No sound of mill- wheels or steam-hammers is heard here, only the summer breeze stirring the lofty pine branches, IN GUSTAVE DORfi'S COUNTRY 63 the hum of insects, and the trickling of mountain streams. The dark-leaved henbane is in brilliant yellow flower, and the purple foxglove in striking contrast; but the wealth of summer flowers is over. Who would choose to live on Ararat? Yet it is something to reach a pinnacle from whence you may survey more than one kingdom. The prospect from St. Odile is one to gaze on for a day, and to make us dizzy in dreams ever after. From the umbrageous terrace in front of the con- vent cool and breezy on this, one of the hottest 'days of a hot season we see, as from a balloon, a wonderful bit of the world spread out like a map at our feet. The vast plain of Alsace, the valley of the Rhine, the Swiss mountains, the Black Forest, Bale, and Strasburg all these we dominate from our airy pinnacle close, at it seems, under the blue vault of heaven. But though they were there, we did not see them : for the day, as so often happens on such occasions, was misty. We had none the less a novel and wonderful prospect. As we sit on this cool terrace, under the shady mulberry trees, and look far beyond the richly-wooded mountain we have scaled on our way, we gradually make out some details of the fast panorama, one feature after another becoming visible as stars shining faintly in a misty heaven. 64 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES Villages and little towns past counting, each with its conspicuous spire, break the monotony of the enormous plain. Here and there, miles away, a curl of white vapour indicates the passage of some railway train, whilst in this upper stillness sweet sounds of church bells reach us from hamlets close underneath the convent. Nothing can be more solid, fresher, or more brilliant than the rich beech- and pine-woods running sheer from our airy eminence to the level world below, nothing more visionary, slumberous, or dimmer than that wide expanse teeming, as we know, with busy human life, yet flat and motionless as a picture. On clear nights the electric lights of the railway station at Strasburg are seen from this point; but far more attractive than the prospects from St. Odile is its prehistoric wall. Before the wall, however, came the dinner, which deserves mention. It was Friday, so in company of priests, nuns, monks and divers pious pilgrims, with a sprinkling of fashionable ladies from Strasburg, and tourists generally, we sat down to a very fair menu for a fast-day, to wit : rice-soup, turnips and potatoes, eggs, perch, macaroni-cheese, custard pudding, gruyere cheese, and fair vin ordinaire. Two shillings was charged per head, and I must say people got their money's worth, THE PINNACLE OF ODILE Drawn by Georges Conrad [ To face p. 64 IN GUSTAVE BORE'S COUNTRY 65 for appetites seem keen in these parts. The mother-superior, a kindly old woman, evidently belonging to the working class, bustled about and shook hands with each of her guests. After dinner we were shown the bedrooms, which are very clean; for board and lodging you pay six francs a day, out of which, judging from the hunger of the company, the profit arising would be small except to clerical hotel-keepers. We must bear in mind that nuns work without pay, and that all the fish, game, dairy and garden pro- duce the bishop gets for nothing. However, all tourists must be glad of such a hostelry, and the nuns are very obliging. One sister made us some afternoon tea very nicely (we always carry tea and teapot on these excursions), and everybody made us welcome. We found a delightful old Frenchman of Strasburg to conduct us to the Pagan Wall, as, for want of a better name, people designate this famous relic of prehistoric times. Fragments of stone fortifications similarly constructed have been found on other points of the Vosges not far from the promontory on which the convent stands, but none to be com- pared to this one in colossal proportions and completeness. We dip deep down into the woods on quitting the convent gates, then climb for a little space 66 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES and come suddenly upon the edge of the plateau, which the wall was evidently raised to defend. Never did a spot more easily lend itself to such rude defence by virtue of natural position, although where the construction begins the summit of the promontory is inaccessible from below. We are skirting dizzy precipices, feathered with light greenery and brightened with flowers, but awful notwithstanding, and in many places the stones have evidently been piled together rather for the sake of symmetry than from a sense of danger. The points thus protected were already impreg- nable. When we look more nearly we see that however much Nature may have aided these primitive constructors, the wall is mainly due to the agency of man. There is no doubt that in many places the stupendous masses of con- glomerate have been hurled to their places by earthquake, but the entire girdle of stone, of pyramidal size and strength, shows much sym- metrical arrangement and dexterity. The blocks have been selected according to size and shape, and in many places mortised together. We find no trace of cement, a fact disproving the hypo- thesis that the wall may have been of Roman origin. We must doubtless go much farther back, and associate these primitive builders with such relics of prehistoric times as the stones of Carnac IN GUSTAVE DORA'S COUNTRY 67 and Lokmariaker. And not to seek so wide for analogies, do we not see here the handiwork of the same rude architects I have before alluded to in my Vosges travels, who flung a stone bridge across the forest gorge above Remiremont and raised in close proximity the stupendous monolith of Kirlinkin? The prehistoric stone monuments scattered about these regions are as yet new to the English archaeologist, and form one of the most interesting features of Vosges and Alsatian travel. We may follow these lightly superimposed blocks of stone for miles, and the enceinte has been traced round the entire plateau, which was thus defended from enemies on all sides. As we continue our walk on the inner side of the wall we get lovely views of the dim violet hills, the vast golden plain, and, close underneath, luxuriant forests. Eagles are flying hither and thither, and except for an occasional tourist or two, the scene is perfectly solitary. An hour's walk brings us to the Menelstein, a vast and lofty platform of stone, ascended by a stair, both untouched by the hand of man. Never was a more formidable redoubt raised by engineering skill. Nature here helped her primitive builders well. From a terrace due to the natural formation of the rock, we obtain another of those grand and varied r 2 68 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES panoramas so numerous in this part of the world, but the beauty nearer at hand is more enticing. Nothing can exceed the freshness and charm of our homeward walk. We are now no longer following the wall, but free to enjoy the breezy, heather-scented plateau, and the broken, romantic outline of St. Odile, the Wartburg of Alsace, as the saint herself was its Holy Elizabeth, and with as romantic a story for those with a taste for such legends. Here and there on the remoter wooded peaks are stately ruins of feudal castles, whilst all the way our path lies amid bright foliage of young forest trees, chestnut and oak, pine and acacia, and the ground is purple with heather. Blocks of the conglomerate used in the construction of the so-called Pagan Wall meet us at every turn, and as we gaze down the steep sides of the promontory we can trace its massive outline. A scene not soon to be forgotten ! The still, solitary field of Carnac, with its avenues of monoliths, is not more impressive than these Cyclopean walls, thrown as a girdle round the green slopes of St. Odile. We would fain have stayed here some time, but much more still remained to be seen and accomplished in Alsace. Rothau, the district known as the Ban de la Roche, where Oberlin IN GUSTAVE DORA'S COUNTRY 69 laboured for sixty years, Thann, Wesserling, with a sojourn among French subjects of the German Empire at Mulhouse all these things had to be done, and the bright summer days were drawing to an end. IV FROM BARR TO STRASBURG, MULHOUSE AND BELFORT FROM BARR TO STRASBURG THE opening sentences of this chapter, written many years ago, are no longer applicable. Were I to revisit Alsace-Lorraine at the present time, I should only hear French speech among intimate friends and in private, so strictly of late years has the law of lese-majeste been, and is still, enforced. Nothing strikes the sojourner in Alsace- Lorraine more forcibly than the outspokenness of its inhabitants regarding Prussian rule. Young and old, rich and poor, wise and simple alike unburden themselves to their chance-made English acquaintance with a candour that is at the same time amusing and pathetic. For the most part no heed whatever is paid to possible German listeners. At the ordinaries of country hotels, by the shop door, in the railway carriage, Alsatians will pour out their hearts, especially the women, who, as two pretty sisters assured us, are not interfered with, be their conversation of the most treasonable kind. We travelled with these two charming girls from Barr to Rothau, 73 74 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES and they corroborated what we had already heard at Barr and other places. The Prussian inhabitants of Alsace-Lorraine for the most part Government officials are completely shut off from all social intercourse with the French population, the latter, of course, still forming the vast majority. Thus at Barr, a town consisting of over six thousand inhabitants, only a score or two are Prussians, who are employed in the railway and postal service, the police, the survey of forests, etc. The position of these officials is far from agreeable, although, on the other hand, there is compensa- tion in the shape of higher pay, and much more material comfort, even luxury, than are to be had in the Fatherland. Alsace-Lorraine, especially by comparison with Prussia, may be called a land of Goshen, overflowing with milk and honey. The vine ripens on these warm hill-sides and rocky terraces, the plain produces abundant variety of fruit and vegetables, the streams abound with trout and the forests with game. No wonder, therefore, that whilst thousands of patriotic Alsatians have already quitted the country, thousands of Prus- sians are ready to fill their places. But the Alsatian exodus is far from finished. At first, as was only natural, the inhabitants could not realize the annexation. They refused to believe that the Prussian occupation was final, so, for the most FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 75 part, stayed on, hoping against hope. The time of illusion is past. French parents of children born since the war had to decide whether their sons are to become Prussian or French citizens. After the age of sixteen a lad's fate is no longer in their hands ; he must don the uniform so odious in French eyes, and renounce the cherished patrie and tricolor for ever. The enforced military service, necessitated, perhaps, by the new order of things, is the bitterest drop in the cup of the Alsatians. Only the poorest, and those who are too much ham- pered by circumstances to evade it, resign them- selves to the enrolment of their sons in the German army. For this reason well-to-do parents, and even many in the humbler ranks of life, are quitting the country in much larger numbers than is taken account of, whilst all who can possibly afford it send their young sons across the frontier for the purpose of giving them a French education. The prohibition of French in the public schools and colleges is another grievous condition of annexation. Alsatians of all ranks are therefore under the necessity of providing private masters for their children, unless they would let them grow up in ignorance of their mother tongue. And here a word of explanation may be necessary. Let no strangers in Alsace 76 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES take it for granted that because a great part of the rural population speak a -patois made up of bad German and equally bad French, they are any more German at heart for all that. Some of the most patriotic French inhabitants of Alsace can only express themselves in this dialect, a fact that should not surprise us, seeing the amalgama- tion of races that has been going on for many generations. Physically speaking, so far the result has been satisfactory. In Alsace-Lorraine no one can help being struck with the fine appearance of the people. The men are tall, handsome, and well made, the women graceful and often exceed- ingly lovely, French piquancy and symmetrical proportions combined with Teutonic fairness of complexion, blonde hair, and blue eyes. I will now continue my journey from Barr to Strasburg by way of the Ban de la Roche, Oberlin's country. A railway connects Barr with Rothau, a very pleasant halting-place in the midst of sweet pastoral scenery. It is another of those resorts in Alsace whither holiday folks flock from Strasburg and other towns during the long vacation, in quest of health, recreation and society. Rothau is a very prosperous little town, with large factories, handsome chateaux of mill- FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 77 owners, and trim little cottages, having flowers in all the windows and a trellised vine in every garden. Pomegranates and oleanders are in full bloom here and there, and the general aspect is bright and cheerful. At Rothau are several blan- chisseries or laundries, on a large scale, employ- ing many hands, besides dye-works and saw-mills. Through the town runs the little river Bruche, and the whole district, known as the Ban de la Roche, a hundred years ago one of the dreariest regions in France, is now all smiling fertility. The principal building is its handsome Protestant church for here we are among Protestants, although of a less zealous temper than their fore- fathers, the fervid Anabaptists. I attended morning service, and although an eloquent preacher from Paris officiated, the audience was small, and the general impression that of coldness and want of animation. From the sweet, fragrant valley of Rothau a road winds amid green hills and by the tumbling river to the little old-world village of Foudai, where Oberlin lies buried. The tiny church and shady churchyard lie above the village, and a more out-of-the-way spot than Foudai itself can hardly be imagined. Yet many a pious pilgrim finds it out and comes hither to pay a tribute to the memory of " Papa Oberlin," as he was art- 78 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES lessly called by the country folk. This is the inscription at the head of the plain stone slab marking his resting-place; and very suggestive it is of the relation between the pastor and his flock. Oberlin's career of sixty years among the primitive people of the Ban de la Roche was rather that of a missionary among an uncivilized race than of a country priest among his parishioners. How he toiled, and how he in- duced others to toil, in order to raise the material as well as moral and spiritual conditions of his charges, is pretty well known. His story reads like the German narrative, Des Goldmachers Dorf. Nor does it require any lively fancy to picture what this region must have been like before Oberlin and his fellow-workers made the wilder- ness to blossom as the rose. The soil is rocky and barren, the hill-sides whitened with mountain streams, the more fertile spots isolated and difficult of access. An elaborate system of irriga- tion has now clothed the valleys with rich pastures, the river turns a dozen wheels, and every available inch of soil has been turned to account. The cottages with orchards and flower-gardens are trim and comfortable. The place in verity is a verit- able little Arcadia. No less so is Waldersbach, which was Oberlin's home. The little river wind- ing amid hayfields and fruit-trees leads us thither FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 79 from Foudai in half-an-hour. It is Sunday after- noon, and a fete day. Young and old in Sunday garb are keeping holiday, the lads and lasses waltz- ing, the children enjoying swings and peep-shows. No acerbity has lingered among these descend- ants of the austere parishioners of Oberlin. Here, as at Foudai, the entire population is Protestant. The church and parsonage lie at the back of the village, and we were warmly welcomed by the pastor and his wife, a great-great-granddaughter of Oberlin. Their six pretty children were playing in the garden with two young girls in the costume of Alsace, forming a pleasant domestic picture. Our hosts showed us many relics of Oberlin, the handsome cabinets and presses of carved oak, in which were stored the family ward- robe and other treasures, and in the study the table on which he habitually wrote. This is a charming upper room with wide views over the green hills and sunny, peaceful valley. We were offered hospitality for days, nay, weeks, if we chose to stay, and even the use of Oberlin's study to sit and write in ! A summer might be pleasantly spent here, with quiet morn- ings in this cheerful chamber, full of pious memories, and in the afternoon long rambles with the children over the peaceful hills. From Foudai, too, you may climb the wild rocky plateau 80 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES known as the Champ de Feu no spot in the Vosges chain is more interesting from a geological point of view. After much pleasant talk we took leave of our kind hosts, not going away, however, without visiting the church. A tablet with medallion portrait of Oberlin bears the touching inscription that for fifty-nine years he was " the father of this parish." Then we drove back as we had come, stopping at Foudai to rest the horse and drink tea. We were served in a cool little parlour open- ing on to a garden, and so tempting looked the tiny inn that we regretted we could not stay there a week. A pleasant pastoral country rather than romantic or picturesque is the Ban de la Roche, but close at hand is the lofty Donon, which may be climbed from Rothau or Foudai, and there are many other excursions within reach. Here, for the present, the romance of Alsace travel ends, and all is prose of a somewhat painful kind. The first object that attracted our attention on reaching Strasburg was the new railway station, of which we had already heard so much. This handsome structure, erected by the German Government at an enormous cost, had only been recently opened, and so great was the soreness of feeling excited by certain allegorical bas-reliefs decorating the fagade that for many days after FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 81 the opening of the station police-officers in plain clothes carefully watched the crowd of spectators, carrying off the more seditious to prison. To say the least of it, these mural decorations are not in the best of taste, and at any rate it would have been better to have withheld them for a time. The two small bas-reliefs in question bear respec- tively the inscription, " Im alien, und im neuen Reich" ("In the old and new Empire"), improved by a stander-by, to the great relish of others, thus, " Im alien, reich, im neuen, arm" (" In the old, rich, in the new, poor "). They give a somewhat ideal representation of the surrender of Strasburg to the German Emperor. But the bombardment of their city, the destruction of public monuments and the loss of life and property thereby occasioned, were as yet fresh in the memories of the inhabitants, and they needed no such reminder of the new state of things. Their better feelings towards Germany had been bom- barded out of them, as an Alsacienne wittily observed to the Duchess of Baden after the surrender. The duchess, daughter to the Em- peror William, made the round of the hospitals, and not a single Alsatian soldier but turned his face to the wall, whereupon she expressed her astonishment at not finding a better sentiment. Nor can the lover of art help drawing a painful 82 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES contrast between the Strasburg of the old and the new regime. There was very little to see at Stras- burg except the cathedral at this time. The Library, with its 300,000 volumes and 1,500 manu- scripts the priceless Hortus Deliciarium of the twelfth century, richly illuminated and ornamented with miniatures invaluable to the student of men and manners of the Middle Ages, the missal of Louis XII., bearing his arms, \h&RecueildePrieres of the eighth century all these had been com- pletely destroyed by the ruthless Prussian bom- bardment. The Museum, rich in chefs 'd'ceuvre of the French school, both of sculpture and paint- ing, the handsome Protestant church, the theatre, the Palais de Justice, all shared the same fate, not to speak of buildings of lesser importance, in- cluding four hundred private dwellings, and of the fifteen hundred civilians, men, women and children, killed and wounded by the shells. The fine church of St. Thomas suffered greatly. Nor was the cathedral spared, and it would doubtless have perished altogether, too, but for the en- forced surrender of the heroic city. On my second visit ten years later I found immense changes, new German architecture to be seen everywhere. Strasburg is said to contain a much larger German element than any other city of Alsace- FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 88 Lorraine, but the most casual observer soon finds out how it stands with the bulk of the people. The first thing that attracted our notice in a shop window was a coloured illustration representing the funeral procession of Gambetta, as it wound slowly past the veiled statue of Strasburg on the Place de la Concorde. These displays of patriotic feeling are forbidden, but they come to the fore all the same. Here, as elsewhere, the clinging to the old country is pathetically sometimes comically apparent. A rough peasant girl, employed as chambermaid in the hotel at which we stayed, amused me not a little by her tirades against the Prussians, spoken in a lan- guage that was neither German nor French, but a mixture of both the delectable tongue of Alsace ! Strasburg is now a vast camp, with that per- petual noisy military parade so wearisome in Berlin and other German cities, and, as I have said, there was very little to see. It was a relief to get to Mulhouse, the comparatively quiet and thoroughly French city of Mulhouse, in spite of all attempts to make it German. But for the imperial eagle placed over public offices and the sprinkling of Prussian helmets and Prussian physiognomies, we could hardly suppose our- selves outside the French border. The shops are G2 84 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES French. French is the language of the better classes, and French and Jews make up the bulk of the population. The Jews from time imme- morial have swarmed in Alsace, where, I am sorry to say, they seemed to be little liked. This thoroughly French appearance of Mulhouse, to be accounted for, moreover, by an intensely patriotic clinging to the mother country, naturally occasions great vexation to the German author- ities. It is, perhaps, hardly to be wondered at that undignified provocations and reprisals should be the consequence. Thus the law forbids the putting up of French signboards or names over shop doors in any but the German language. This is evaded by withholding all else except the surname of the individual, which is of course the same in both languages. One instance more I give of the small annoy- ances to which the French residents of Mulhouse are subject, a trifling one, yet sufficient to irritate. Eight months after the annexation, orders were sent round to the pastors and clergy generally to offer up prayers for the Emperor William every Sunday. The order was obeyed, for refusal would have been assuredly followed by dismissal, but the prayer is ungraciously performed. The French pastors invoke the blessing of Heaven on " VEm-pereur qui nous gouverne" The pastors FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 85 who perform the service in German, pray not for "our Emperor/' as is the apparently loyal fashion in the Fatherland, but for "the Emperor." These things are trifling grievances, but, on the other hand, the Prussians have theirs also. Not even the officials of highest rank are received into any kind of society whatever. Mulhouse possesses a charming zoological garden, free to subscribers only, who have to be balloted for. Twenty years after the annexation not a single Prussian has ever been able to obtain access to this garden. Even the very poorest contrive to show their intense patriotism. It is the rule of the German government to give twenty-five marks to any poor woman giving birth to twins. The wife of a French workman during my sojourn at Mulhouse had three sons at a birth, but though in very poor circumstances, refused to claim the donation. "My sons shall never be Prussian/ 1 she said, "and that gift would make them so." The real thorn in the flesh of the annexed Alsatians is, however, as I have before pointed out, military service, and the enforced German education. All who have read Alphonse Daudet's charming little story, La derniere le^on de 'Franfais, will be able to realize the painfulness of the truth, somewhat rudely brought home to 86 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES French parents. Their children must henceforth receive a German education, or none at all, for this is what the law amounts to in the great majority of cases. Rich people, of course, and those who are only well-to-do, can send their sons to the Lycee, opened at Belfort since the annexa- tion, but the rest have to submit, or, by dint of great sacrifice, obtain private French teaching. And, whilst even Alsatians are quite ready to render justice to the forbearance and tact often shown by officials, an inquisitorial and prying system is pursued, as vexatious to the patriotic as enforced vaccination to the Peculiar People or school attendance to the poor. One lady was visited at seven o'clock in the morning by the functionary charged with the unpleasant mission of finding out where her boy was educated. " Tell those who sent you," said the indignant mother, "that my son shall never belong to you. We will give up our home, our prospects, everything ; but our children shall never be Prussians." True enough, the family have since emigrated. No one who has not stayed in Alsace among Alsatians can realize the intense clinging to France among the people, nor the sacrifices made to retain their nationality. And it is well the true state of feel- ing throughout the annexed territory should be known outside its limits. With a considerable [To face p. 86 ETTENHEIM FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 87 knowledge of French life and character, I confess I went to Mulhouse little prepared to find there a ferment of feeling which years have not sufficed to calm down. "Nous ne sommes pas heureux a Mulhouse? were almost the first words addressed to me by that veteran patriot and true philanthropist, Jean Dollfus. And how could it be otherwise? M. Dollfus, as well as other representatives of the French sub- jects of Prussia in the Reichstag, had protested against the annexation of Alsace in vain. They pointed out the heavy cost to the German empire of these provinces, in consequence of the vast military force required to maintain them, the un- dying bitterness aroused, the moral, intellectual, and material interests at stake. I use the word intellectual advisedly, for, amongst other instances in point, I was assured that the book trade in Mul- house had greatly declined since the annexation. The student class has diminished, many reading people have gone, and those who remain feel too uncertain about the future to accumulate libraries. Moreover, the ordeal that all have gone through has depressed intellectual as well as social life. Mulhouse has been too much saddened to recover herself as yet, although eminently a literary place, and a sociable one in the old happy French 88 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES days. The balls, soirees and reunions, that formerly made Mulhouse one of the friendliest as well as the busiest towns in the world, have almost ceased. People take their pleasures very soberly. It is hardly possible to write of Mulhouse with- out consecrating a page or two to M. Jean Dollfus, a name already familiar to some English readers. The career of such a man forms part of contemporary history, and for sixty years the great cotton-printer of Mulhouse, the indefatig- able philanthropist the fellow-worker with Cobden, Arles-Dufour, and others in the cause of Free Trade and the ardent patriot, had been before the world. The year before my visit was celebrated, with a splendour that would be ridiculed in a novel, the diamond wedding of the head of the numerous house of Dollfus, the silver and the golden having been already kept in due form. Mulhouse might well be proud of such a fete, for it was unique, and the first gala-day since the annexation. When M. Dollfus looked out of his window in the morning, he found the familiar street transformed as if by magic into a bright green avenue abundantly adorned with flowers. The change had been effected in the night by means of young fir-trees transplanted from the forest. The day was kept as a general holiday. FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 89 From an early hour the improvised avenue was thronged with visitors of all ranks bearing cards, letters of congratulation or flowers. The great Dollfus works were closed, and the five thousand workmen with their wives, children and super- annuated parents, were not only feasted but en- riched. After the banquet every man, woman and child received a present in money, the oldest and those who had remained longest in the employ of M. Dollfus being presented with forty francs. But the crowning sight of the day was the board spread for the Dollfus family and the gathering of the clan, as it may indeed be called. There was the head of the house, firm as a rock still, in spite of his eighty-two years; beside him the partner of sixty of those years, his devoted wife ; next according to age, their numerous sons and daughters, sons-in-law and daughters-in-law; duly following came the grandsons and grand- daughters, then the great-grandsons and great- granddaughters, and lastly, the babies of their fifth generation, all accompanied by their nurses in the picturesque costume of Alsace and Lorraine. This patriarchal assemblage numbered between one and two hundred guests. On the table were represented, in the artistic confec- tionery for which Mulhouse is famous, some of the leading events of M. Dollfus's busy life. 90 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES Here in sugar was a model of the achievement which will ever "do honour to the name of Jean Dollfus, namely, the cites ouvrieres, and what was no less a triumph of the confectioner's skill, a group representing the romantic ride of M. and Mme. Dollfus on camels towards the Algerian Sahara when visiting the African colony some twenty years before. This patriarchal festival is said to have cost M. Dollfus half a million of francs, a bagatelle in a career devoted to giving ! The bare con- ception of what this good man has bestowed takes one's breath away ! Not that he was alone ; never was a city more prolific of generous men than Mulhouse, but Jean Dollfus, " Le Pere Jean," as he is called, stood at the head. He received with one hand to bestow with the other, and not only on behalf of the national, intellectual and spiritual wants of his own workmen and his own community the Dollfus family are Protestant but indiscriminately benefiting Protestant, Catholic, Jew ; founding schools, hospitals, libraries, refuges, churches, for all. We see at a glance after what fashion the great manufacturers set to work here to solve the problem before them. The life of ease and the life of toil are seen side by side, and all the brighter influences of the one brought to bear on FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 91 the other. The tall factory chimneys are un- sightly here as elsewhere, and nothing can be uglier than the steam tramways, noisily running through the streets. But close to the factories and workshops are the cheerful villas and gardens of their owners, whilst near at hand the work- men's 'dwellings offer an exterior equally attractive. These cites ouvrieres form indeed a suburb in themselves, and a very pleasant suburb too. Many middle-class families in England might be glad to own such a home, a semi-detached cottage or villa standing in a pretty garden with flowers and trees and plots of turf. Some of the cottages are models of trimness and taste, others of course are less well kept, a few have a neglected appearance. The general aspect, however, is one of thrift and prosperity, and it must be borne in mind that each 'dwelling and plot of ground are the property of the owner, gradually acquired by him out of his earnings, thanks to the initiative of M. Dollfus and his fellow-workers. " It is by such means as these that we have combated Socialism," said M. Dollfus to me; and the gradual transformation of the workman into an owner of property, is but one of the numerous efforts made at Mulhouse to lighten, in so far as is practicable, the burden of toil. 92 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES These pleasant avenues are very animated on Sundays, especially when a universal christening of babies is going on. The workmen at Mulhouse are paid once a fortnight, in some cases monthly, and it is usually after pay-day that such celebra- tions occur. We saw one Sunday afternoon quite a procession of carriages returning from the church to the cite ouvriere, for upon these occa- sions nobody goes on foot, There were certainly a dozen christening parties, all well dressed, and the babies in the finest white muslin and embroidery. A very large proportion of the artisans here are Catholics, and as one instance among others of the liberality prevailing here, I mention that one of the latest donations of M. Dollfus is the piece of ground, close to the 'cite ouvriere, on which now stands the new, florid Catholic church. There are free libraries for all, and a very handsome museum has been opened within the last few years, containing some fine modern French pictures, all gifts of the Dollfuses, Engels, and Kochlins, to their native town. The museum, like everything else at Mulhouse, is as French as French can be, no German element visible anywhere. Conspicuous among the pic- tures are portraits of Thiers and Gambetta, and a fine subject of De Neuville, representing one FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 93 of those desperate battle-scenes of 1870-71 that still have such a painful hold on the minds of French people. It was withheld for some time, and had only been recently exhibited. The bom- bardment of Strasburg is also a popular subject in Mulhouse. I have mentioned the flower-gardens of the city, but the real pleasure-ground of both rich and poor lies outside the suburbs, and a charm- ing one it is, and full of animation on Sundays. This is the Tannenwald, a fine bit of forest on high ground above the vineyards and suburban gardens of the richer citizens. A garden is a necessity of existence here, and all who are with- out one in the town hire or purchase a plot of suburban ground. Here is also the beautiful subscription garden I have before alluded to, with fine views over the Rhine valley and the Black Forest. Nor is Mulhouse without its excursions. Colmar and the romantic site of Notre Dame des Trois Epis may be visited in a day. Then there is Thann, with its perfect Gothic church, a veritable cathedral in miniature, and the charming, pros- perous valley of Wesserling. From Thann the ascent of the Ballon d' Alsace may be made, but the place itself must on no account be missed. No more exquisite church in the region, and most 94 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES beautifully is it placed amid sloping green hills ! It may be said to consist of nave and apse only. There are but two lateral chapels, evidently of a later period than the rest of the building. The interior is of great beauty, and no less so the facade and side porch, both very richly decor- ated. One's first feeling is of amazement to find such a church in such a place; but this Hingy, sleepy little town was once of some import- ance and still does a good deal of trade. There is a very large Jewish community here, as in many other towns of Alsace. Whether they deserve their unpopularity is a painful question not lightly to be taken up. Leisurely travellers bound homeward from Mulhouse will do well to diverge from the direct Paris line and join it at Dijon, by way of Belfort the heroic city of Belfort, with its colossal lion, hewn out of the solid rock the little Protestant town of Montbeliard, and Besangon. Belfort is well worth seeing, and the ' Territoire de Belfort" is to all intents and purposes a new 'department, formed from that remnant of the Haut Rhin saved to France after the war of 1870-71. The " Territoire de Belfort" comprises upwards of sixty thousand hectares, and a popula- tion, chiefly industrial, of nearly seventy thousand inhabitants, spread over many communes and FROM BARR TO STRASBURG 95 hamlets. There is a picturesque and romantic bit of country between Montbeliard and Besangon, well worth seeing, if only from the railway windows. But the tourist who wants to make no friendly calls on the way, whose chief aim is to get over the ground quickly, must avoid the 'detour by all means, as the trains are slow and the stoppages many. >./f'.; V, Vi fil v.v^. s ;-5 .//x- i^ i/ / / 1 \_Tofacep. 97 SKETCH BY GUSTAVE DORE, ^ETAT EIGHT YEARS V THE 'MARVELLOUS BOY' OF ALSACE THE ' MARVELLOUS BOY J OF ALSACE I IT is especially at Strasburg that travellers are reminded of another "marvellous boy," who, if he did not " perish in his pride," certainly short- ened his days by overreaching ambition and the brooding bitterness waiting upon shattered hopes. Gustave Dore was born and reared under the shadow of Strasburg Cathedral. The majestic spire, a world in itself, became indeed a world to this imaginative prodigy. He may be said to have learned the minster of minsters by heart, as before him Victor Hugo had familiarized himself with Notre Dame. The unbreeched artist of four summers never tired of scrutinizing the statues, monsters, gargoyles and other outer ornamentations, while the story of the pious architect Erwin and of his inspirer, Sabine, was equally 'dear. Never did genius more clearly exhibit the influence of early environment. True child of Alsace, he revelled in local folk-lore and legend. The eerie and the fantastic had the H2 99 100 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES same fascination for him as sacred story, and the lives of the saints, gnomes, elves, were- wolves and sorcerers bewitched no less than martyrs, miracle-workers and angels. His play-hours would be spent within the precincts of the cathedral, whilst the long winter evenings were beguiled "with fairy-tales and fables, his mother and nurse reading or reciting these, their little listener being always busy with pen or pencil. Something much more than mere precocity is shown in these almost infantine sketches. Exorbitant fancy is here much less striking than sureness of touch, outlined figures drawn between the age of five and ten displaying remarkable precision and point, each line of the silhouette telling. At six he celebrated his first school prize with an illustrated letter, two portraits and a mannikin surmounting the text. 1 His groups of peasants and portraits, made three or four years later, possess almost a Rembrandt strength, unfortunately passion for the grotesque and the fanciful often lending a touch of caricature. Downright ugliness must have had an especial charm for the future illustrator of the Inferno, his unconscious models sketched by the way being uncomely as the immortal Pickwick 1 See his life by Blanch Roosevelt, Sampson Low & Co. 1885 ; also the French translation of the same, 1886. : : : : : . ; .. : : : v \_Tofacep. roi SKETCH BY GUSTAVE DORE, yETAT EIGHT YEARS MARVELLOUS BOY' OF ALSACE 101 and his fellows of Phiz. A devotee of Gothic art, he reproduced the mediaeval monstrosities adorning cornice and pinnacle in human types. Equally devoted to nature out of doors, the same taste predominated. What he loved and sought was ever the savage, the legend-haunted, the ghoulish, seats and ambuscades of kelpie, hob- goblin, brownie and their kind. From the nursery upwards, if the term can be applied to French children, his life was a succes- sion of artistic abnormalities and tours de force. The bantling in petticoats who could astound his elders with wonderfully accurate silhouettes, con- tinued to surprise them in other ways. His memory was no less amazing than his draughts- manship. When seven years of age, he was taken to the opera and witnessed Robert le Diable. On returning home he accurately narrated every scene. At eight he broke his right arm, but became as if by magic ambidextrous, whilst confined to bed, cheerily drawing all day long with the left hand. At ten he witnessed a gran'd public ceremony. In 1840 Strasburg celebrated the inauguration of a monument to Gutenberg, the festival being one of extraordinary splendour. Fifteen cars repre- sented the industrial corporations of the city, each symbolically adorned, and in each riding 102 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES figures suitably travestied and occupied, men, women and children wearing the costumes of the period represented. Among the corporations figured the Peintres-verriers, or painters on stained glass, their car proving especially attrac- tive to one small looker-on. Intoxicated by the colour and movement of the fete, garlanded and beflagged streets, the symbolic carriages, the bands, civic and military, and the prevailing enthusiasm, the child deter- mined to get up an apotheosis of his own : in other words, to repeat the performance on a smaller scale. Which he did. Cars, costumes, banners and 'decorations were all designed by this imp of ten. With the approval of his professors and the collaboration of his school-fellows, the Dore procession, consisting of four highly decor- ated cars, drawn by boys, defiled before the college authorities and made the round of the cathedral, the youthful impresario at its head. The car of the painters on glass was conspicu- ously elaborate, a star copied from a Cathedral window showing the superscription, G. DorJ, fecit. Small wonder is it that the adoring mother of an equally adoring son should have believed in him from the first, and seen in these begin- nings the dawn of genius, the advent, indeed, of a second Michael Angelo or Titian, 'MARVELLOUS BOY' OF ALSACE 103 The more practical father might chide such overreaching vaticinations, might reiterate " Do not fill the boy's head with nonsense." The answer would be " I know it. Our son is a genius." And Dore pere gave way, under circumstances curious enough. II In 1847 tne family visited Paris, there to Gustave's delight spending four months. Loiter- ing one day in the neighbourhood of the Bourse, his eye lighted upon comic papers with cuts published by MM. Auber and Philipon. Their shop windows were full of caricatures, and after a long and intent gaze the boy returned home, in two or three days presenting himself before the proprietors with half-a-dozen drawings much in the style of those witnessed. The benevolent but businesslike M. Philipon examined the sketches attentively, put several questions to his young visitor, and, finding that the step had been taken surreptitiously, immediately sat down and wrote to M. and Mme. Dore. He urged them with all the inducements he could command to allow their son the free choice of a career, assuring them of his future. 104 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES A few days later an agreement was signed by father and publisher to this effect : During three years the latter was to receive upon certain terms a weekly cartoon from the sixteen-year-old artist, who, on his side, bound himself to offer no sketches elsewhere. 1 Meanwhile, Gustave would pursue his studies at the Lycee Charlemagne, his patron promising to look after his health and well-being. The arrangement answered, and in Le Journal pour rire the weekly caricature signed by Dore soon noised his fame abroad. Ugly, even hideous, as were many of these caricatures, they did double duty, paying the lad's school expenses, and paving the way to better things. Of caricature Dore soon tired, and after this early period never returned to it. Is it any wonder that facile success and excessive laudation should turn the stripling's head? Professionally, if not artistic- ally speaking, Dore passed straight from child to man; in one sense of the word he had no boy- hood, the term tyro remained inapplicable. This undersized, fragile lad, looking years younger than he really was, soon found himself on what must have appeared a pinnacle of fame and fortune. Shortly after his agreement with Philipon, his father died, and Mme. Dore with her family 1 This document was reproduced in Le Figaro of December 4, 1848. 'MARVELLOUS BOY' OF ALSACE 105 removed to Paris, settling in a picturesque and historic hotel of the Rue St. Dominique. Here Dore lived for the rest of his too short life. The house had belonged to the family of Saint Simon, that terrible observer under whose gaze even Louis XIV. is said to have quailed. So aver historians of the period. The associations of his home immediately quickened Bore's inventive faculties. He at once set to work and organized a brilliant set of tableaux vivants, illustrating scenes from the immortal Memoires. The under- taking proved a great social success, and hence- forth we hear of galas, soirees, theatricals and other entertainments increasing in splendour with the young artist's vogue and means. The history of the next twenty years reads like a page from the Arabian Nights. Although dazzling is the record from first to last, and despite the millions of francs earned during those two decades, the artist's ambition was never satisfied. We are always conscious of bitterness and disillusion. As an illustrator, no longer of cheap comic papers but of literary masterpieces brought out in costly fashion, Dore reached the first rank at twenty, his Rabelais setting the seal on his renown. So immense was the success of this truly colossal undertaking and of its suc- cessors, the Don Quixote, the Conies de fees of 106 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES Perrault and the rest, that he meditated nothing less than the illustration of cosmopolitan chefs 'd'ceuvre, en bloc, a series which should include every great imaginative work of the .Western world! Thus in 1855 we find him noting the following projects, to be carried out in ten years' time : illustrations of /Eschylus, Lucan, Ovid, Shakespeare, Goethe (Faust), Lamartine (Medi- tations), Racine, Corneille, Schiller, Boccaccio, Montaigne, Plutarch's Lives these names among others. The jottings in question were written for a friend who had undertaken to write the artist's biography. The Rabelais, Don Quixote, The Inferno, and several more of these sumptuous volumes were brought out in England. Forty years ago Dore's bold and richly imaginative work was in great favour here; indeed, throughout his life he was much more appreciated by ourselves than by his countrymen. All the drawings were done straight upon wood. Lavish in daily life, generous of the generous, Dore showed the same lavishness in his procedure. Some curious particulars are given upon this head. Fabulous sums were spent upon his blocks, even small ones costing as much as four pounds apiece. He must always have the very best wood, no matter the cost, and it was only the whitest, smoothest and glossiest box- wood that satisfied him. Enormous sums were 'MARVELLOUS BOY' OF ALSACE 107 spent upon this material, and to his honour be it recorded, that no matter the destination of a block, the same cost, thought and minute manipu- lation were expended upon a trifling commission as upon one involving thousands of pounds. The penny paper was treated precisely the same as the volume to be brought out at two guineas. In the zenith of his fame as an illustrator, at a time when tip-top authors and editors were all clamouring for his drawings, he did not despise humbler admirers and clients. His delight in his work was only equalled by quite abnormal physical and mental powers. Sleep, food, fresh air, everything was forgotten in the engrossment of work. At this time he would often give himself three hours of sleep only. Dore's ambition rather, one of his ambitions was to perfect wood engraving as an art, hence his indifference to the cost of production. Hence, doubtless, his persistence in drawing on wood without preliminary sketch or copy. Perhaps such obsession was natural. How could he foresee the variety of new methods that were so soon to transform book illustration? Anyhow, herein partly lies the explanation of the following notice in a second-hand book catalogue, 1911 "No. 355. Gustave Dore: Dante's Inferno, with 76 full -page illustrations by Dore*. 4to, 108 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES gilt top, binding soiled, but otherwise good copy. 42^. for 35. 6d. London, n.d." A leading London publisher consulted by me on the subject, writes as follows " Dore's works are no longer in vogue. One of the reasons lies in the fact that his pictures were done by the old engraved process. He drew them straight on wood, and there are, accordingly, no original drawings to be reproduced by modern methods." The words " fatal facility " cannot be applied to so consummate a draughtsman as the illustrator of Dante, Cervantes and Victor Hugo. But Dore's almost superhuman memory was no less of a pitfall than manual dexterity. The follow- ing story will partly explain his dislike of facsimile and duplication. An intimate friend, named Bourdelin, relates how one day during the siege of Paris, the pair found themselves by the Courbevoie bridge. One side of this bridge was guarded by French gendarmes, the other by German officers, Prussians, Saxons, Bavarians, a dozen in all. For a quarter of an hour the two Frenchmen lingered, Dore intently gazing on the group opposite. On returning home some hours later he produced a sketch-book and in Bourdelin's presence swiftly outlined the twelve figures, exactly reproducing not only physiognomic divergences but every < MARVELLOUS BOY' OF ALSACE 109 detail of costume ! Poor Dore ! In those ardently patriotic days he entirely relied upon victory and drew an anticipatory picture of France triumphant, entitled, " Le Passage du Rhin." But the French never crossed the Rhine, and the drawing was given to this friend with the words : " My sketch has no longer any raison d'etre. Keep it in memory of our fallacious hopes/' III In an evil hour for his peace of mind and his fame, Dore decided to leave illustration and become a historic painter. He evidently regarded genius as a Pandora's gift, an all-embracing finality, an endowment that could neither be worsened nor bettered, being complete in itself. A reader of Ariosto, he had not taken to heart one of his most memorable verses, those melli- fluous lines in which the poet dwells upon the laboriousness of intellectual achievement. Nor when illustrating the Arabian Nights had the wonderful story of Hasan of El-Basrah evidently brought home to him the same moral. Between a Dore and his object so he deemed existed neither " seven valleys nor seven seas, nor seven mountains of vast magnitude." A Dore needed no assistance of the flying Jinn and 110 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES the wandering stars on his way, no flying horse, "which when he went along flew, and when he flew the dust overtook him not." Without the equipment of training, without recognition of such a handicap, he entered upon his new career. In 1854 for the first time two pictures signed by Dore appeared on the walls of the Salon. But the canvases passed unnoticed. The Parisians would not take the would-be painter seriously, and the following year's experience proved hardly less disheartening. Of four pictures sent in, three were accepted, one of these being a historic subject, the other two being landscapes. The first, " La Bataille de 1' Alma," evoked considerable criticism. The rural scenes were hung, as Edmond About expressed it, so high as to need a telescope. Both About and Th. Gautier believed in their friend's newly-developed talent, but art-critics and the public held aloof. No medal was decreed by the jury, and, accustomed as he had been to triumph after triumph, his fondest hopes for the second time deceived, Dore grew bitter and acrimonious. That his failure had anything to do with the real question at issue, namely, his genius as a historic painter, he would never for a moment admit. Jealousy, cabals, prejudice only were accountable. 'MARVELLOUS BOY' OF ALSACE 111 The half dozen years following were divided between delightfully gay and varied sociabilities, feverishly prolonged working hours and foreign travel. The millions of francs earned by his illustrations gave him everything he wanted but one, that one, in his eyes, worth all the rest. Travel, a splendid studio, largesses he was generosity itself all these were within his reach. The craved-for renown remained ungraspable. Even visits to his favourite resort, Barr, brought disenchantment. He found old acquaint- ances and the country folks generally wanting in appreciation. With greater and lesser men, he subacidly said to himself that a man was no prophet in his own country. Ten years after the fiasco of his first canvases in the Salon came an invitation to England and the alluring project of a Dore gallery. The Dore Bible and Tennyson, with other works, had paved the way for a right royal reception. The streets of London, as he could well believe, were paved with gold. But many were the contra. "I feel the presentiment," he wrote to a friend, "that if I betake myself to England, I shall break with my own country and lose prestige and influence in France. I cannot exist without my friends, my habits and my pot-au-feu. Folks tell me that England is a land of fogs, that the sun never shines there, that the inhabitants are 112 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES cold, and that I should most likely suffer from sea-sickness in crossing the Manche. To sum up, England is a long way off, and I have a great mind to give up the project." Friendly persuasion, self-interest, wounded self-love carried the day. Reluctantly he decided upon the redoubtable sea-voyage. Whether he suffered from sea-sickness or no we are not told. In any case the visit was repeated, John Bull according the great Alsatian, as he was called, what France had so persistently withheld. Dore was here accorded the first rank among historic painters. His gallery in Bond Street became one of the London sights; in fashionable society, if not in the close ring of the great Victorian artists, he made a leading figure. Royalty patronized and welcomed him. The Queen bought one of his pictures (" Le Psalterion," now at Windsor), and invited him to Balmoral. The heir-apparent, the late King, admired his talent and relished his society. By the clerical world he was especially esteemed, being looked upon as a second Leonardo da Vinci. And, in fine, Dore must be regarded as an anticipator of the Entente cordiale. " Gustave Dore," his compatriots would say, "he is half an English- man ! " Forty years ago our popular favourite might indeed have believed in the fulfilment of his dream. The Thorwaldsen Gallery of Copen- 'MARVELLOUS BOY' OF ALSACE 113 hagen had ever dazzled his imagination. Bond Street was not Paris, certainly, but in the greatest metropolis of the world his memory would be for ever perpetuated. Turning to the dithyrambic utterances of the London Press at the time we can hardly wonder at the hallucination. Here are one or two passages culled from leading dailies and weeklies " In gravity and magnitude of purpose, no less than in the scope and power of his imagination, he towers like a Colossus among his contempo- raries. Compared with such a work as 'Christ leaving the Prsetorium/ the pictures in Burlington House look like the production of a race of dwarfs whose mental faculties are as diminutive as their stature. And it is not alone the efforts of the English School of Painting that appear puny in presence of so great and gigantic an undertaking; the work of all the existing schools of Europe sinks into equal insignificance, and we must go back to the Italian painters of the sixteenth century to find a picture worthy of being classed with this latest and most stupendous achievement of the great French master." Elsewhere we read "The most marvellous picture of the present age is to be seen at 35, New Bond Street. The subject is ' Christ leaving the Praetorium.' The painter is the world-renowned Gustave Dore." 114 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES A journal devoted to art-criticism wrote " In ' The Christian Martyrs ' we have a strik- ing, thrilling and ennobling picture." And so on, and so on. Yet at this time among " the dwarfs " of Burlington House then exhibit- ing was Millais, and contemporaneously with Dore in our midst, 1870-1, was Daubigny, whose tiniest canvases now fetch their thousands ! It was during Dore's apogee in England that a well-known French amateur, also visiting our shores, was thus addressed by an English friend : " Come with me to Bond Street, you will there see the work of your greatest living painter." " Our greatest painter ! " exclaimed the other. "You mean your own. Dore is our first draughtsman of France, yes, but painter, never, neither the greatest nor great; at least we were ignorant of the fact till informed of it by yourself and your country-people." Dore knew well how matters stood, and bitterly resented the attitude of his own nation. Accorded a princely welcome across the Manche, his work worth its weight in gold on the other side of the Atlantic, in France he was looked at askance, even as a painter ignored. He regarded himself as shut out from his rightful heritage, and the victim, if not of a conspiracy, of a cabal. His school playmates and close friends, Taine, 'MARVELLOUS BOY' OF ALSACE 115 Edmond About and Th. Gautier, might be on his side; perhaps, with reservations, Rossini and a few other eminent associates also. But the pre- scient, unerring verdict of the collective " man in the street" "The people's voice, the proof and echo of all human fame " he missed; resentment preyed upon his spirits, undermined his vitality, and doubtless had some- thing to do with his premature breakdown. The Dore gallery indeed proved his Capua, the long-stop to his fame. IV As a personality the would-be Titian, Diirer, Thorwaldsen and Benvenuto Cellini in one pre- sents an engaging figure. His domestic life makes very pleasant reading. We find no dark holes and corners in the career of one who may be said to have remained a boy to the end, at fifty as at five full of freak and initiative, clingingly attached to a devoted and richly-endowed mother, and the ebullient spirit of a happy home. With his rapidly increasing fortune, the historic house in the Rue Dominique became an artistic, musical and dramatic centre. His fetes were worthy of a millionaire, and, alike in those private theatricals, I 2 116 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES tableaux vivants or concerts, he ever took a lead- ing part. An accomplished violinist, Dore found in music a never-failing stimulant and refresh- ment. Rossini was one of his circle, among others were the two Gautiers, the two Dumas, Carolus Duran, Liszt, Gounod, Patti, Alboni and Nilsson, Mme. Dore, still handsome and alert in her old age, proudly doing the honours of what was now called the Hotel Dore. By his literary and artistic brethren the many-faceted genius and exhilarat- ing host was fully appreciated. Generosities he ever freely indulged in, the wealth of such rapid attainment being dispensed with an ungrudgeful hand. To works of charity the great illustrator gave largely, but we hear of no untoward mis- reckonings, nor bills drawn upon time, health or talents. With him, as with the average French- man, solvency was an eleventh commandment. Meantime, as the years wore on, again and again he bid desperately for the suffrages with- held, his legitimately won renown held by him of small account. To his American biographer he said, on showing her some of his pictures^:. " I illustrate books in order to pay for my colours and paint-brushes. I was born a painter." On the lady's companion, an American officer, naively asking if certain canvases were designed for London or Paris, he answered with bitter irony 'MARVELLOUS BOY' OF ALSACE 117 " Paris, forsooth ! I do not paint well enough for Paris." As he spoke his face became clouded. The gay, jovial host of a few minutes before sighed deeply, and during their visit could not shake off depression. Two crowning humiliations came before the one real sorrow of his life, the loss of that gifted mother who was alike his boon companion, closest confidante and enthusiastic Egeria. Per- petually seeking laurels in new fields, in 1877 he made his debut as a sculptor. The marble group, " La Parque et 1'Amour," signed G. Dore, won a succes d'estime, no more. In the following year was opened the great international exhibition on the Champ de Mars, Dore's enormous monu- mental vase being conspicuously placed over one of the porticoes. This astounding achievement in bronze, appropriately named the " Poeme de la Vigne," created quite a sensation at the time. Reproductions appeared in papers of all countries containing a printing press or photographic machine. But for the artist's name, doubtless his work would have attained the gold medal and other honours. The Brobdingnagian vase, so wonderfully decorated with flowers, animals and arabesques, was passed over by the jury. Equally mortifying was the fate of his marble group in the same year's Salon. This subject, " La Gloire," had a place of honour in the sculpture 118 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES gallery and won universal suffrages. The critics echoed popular approval. The jury remained passive. It was in the midst of these unneces- sarily crushing defeats for why, indeed, should any mortal have craved more than mortal success? that Mme. Bore's forces gave way. From that time till her death, which occurred two years later, her son's place was by her side, flout- ings, projects, health and pleasure, forgotten, his entire thoughts being given to the invalid. No more beautiful picture of filial devotion could suggest itself to the painter of domestic subjects than this, Dore with table and sketching materials seated in his mother's sick-room, or at night ministering to her in wakeful moments. At dawn he would snatch a few hours' sleep, but that was all. No wonder that his own health should give way so soon after the death-blow of her loss. "My friend," he wrote to an English boon companion, on March 16, 1881, "she is no more. I am alone. You are a clergyman, I entreat you to pray for the repose of her beloved soul and the preservation of my reason. 5 ' A few days later he wrote to the same friend of his "frightful solitude," adding his regret at not having anticipated such a blank and made for himself a home in other words, taken a wife. Some kind matchmaking friends set to work 'MARVELLOUS BOY' OF ALSACE 119 and found, so at least they fancied, a bride exactly calculated to render him happy. But on January 23, 1883, Dore died, pre- maturely aged and broken down by grief, corrod- ing disappointment and quite frenzied overwork and ambition. He never attained recognition as a historic painter among his country-folks. One canvas, however, " Tobit and the Angel," is placed in the Luxembourg, and his monument to Dumas ornaments the capital. His renown as an illus- trator remains high as ever in France. And one, that one, the passionately desired prize of every Frenchman, became his : in 1861 he was decorated with the Red Ribbon. Six of Dore's great religious subjects retain their place in the Bond Street Gallery, but for reasons given above his wonderfully imaginative illustrations are here forgotten. The superb edition of the Enid (Moxon, 1868), a folio bound in royal purple and gold, and printed on paper thick as vellum, the volume weighing four pounds, awakens melancholy reflections. What would have been poor Dore's feelings had he lived to see such a guinea's worth, and cheap at the price, gladly sold, rather got rid of, for three shillings ! Dore's last work, the unconventional monu- ment to the elder Dumas, was left unfinished. 120 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES Completed by another hand, the group now forms a conspicuous object in the Avenue Villiers, Paris. The striking figure of the great quadroon, with his short crisped locks, suggests a closer relation- ship to the race thus apostrophized by Walt Whitman " You, dim descended, black, divine souled African . . ." He surmounts a lofty pedestal, on the base being seated a homely group, three working folks, a mob-capped woman reading a Dumas novel to two companions, evidently her father and husband, sons of the soil, drinking in every word, their attitude of the most complete absorp- tion. Classicists an'd purists in art doubtless look askance at a work which would certainly have enchanted the sovereign romancer. "Will folks read my stories when I am gone, doctor?" he asked as he lay a-dying. The good physician easily reassured his patient. "When we have patients awaiting some much-dreaded operation in hospital," he replied, " we have only to give them one of your novels. Straightway they forget everything else." And Dumas " the great, the humane," as a charming poet has called him died happy. As well he might, in so far as his fame was concerned. La Tulip e Noire would alone have assured his future. VI QUISSAC AND SAUVE QUISSAC AND SAUVE ONE should always go round the sun to meet the moon in France, that is to say, one should ever circumambulate, never make straight for the lodestar ahead. The way to almost any place of renown, natural, historic or artistic, is sure to teem with as much interest as that to which we are bound. So rich a palimpsest is French civilization, so varied is French scenery, so multi- farious the points of view called up at every town, that hurry and scurry leave us hardly better informed than when we set out. Thus it has ever been my rule to indulge in the most preposterous peregrination, taking no account whatever of days, seasons or possible cons, hearkening only to the pros, and never so much as glancing at the calendar. Such protracted zigzaggeries have been made easy to the "devious traveller" by one unusual advantage. Just as pioneers in Australasia find Salvation Army shelters scattered throughout remotest regions, so, fortunately, have I ever been able to count upon "harbour and good company" during my thirty-five years of French sojourn and travel. 123 124 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES To reach a certain Pyrenean valley in which I was to spend a holiday would only have meant a night's dash by express from Paris. Instead, I followed the south-eastern route, halting at Heaven knows how many ! already familiar and delightful places between Paris and Dijon, Dijon and Lyons, Lyons and Nimes; from the latter city being bound for almost as many more before reaching my destination. Quite naturally I would often find myself on the track of that "wise and honest traveller," so John Morley calls Arthur Young. Half-way between Nimes and Le Vigan lies the little town of Sauve, at which the Suffolk farmer halted in July 1787. "Pass six leagues of a disagreeable country," he wrote. :< Vines and olives." But why a disagreeable country? Beautiful I thought the landscape as I went over the same ground on a warm September afternoon a century and odd years later, on alighting to be greeted with a cheery > " Here I am ! " As a rule I am entirely of Montaigne's opinion. "When I travel in Sicily," said the philosopher of Gascony, " it is not to find Gascons." Dearly as we love home and home-folk, the gist of travel lies in oppositeness and surprises. We do not QUISSAC AND SAUVE 125 visit the uttermost ends of the globe in search of next-door neighbours. That cordial " Here I am ! " however, had an unmistakable accent, just a delightful suspicion of French. My host was a gallant naval officer long since retired from service, with his English wife and two daughters, spending the long vacation in his country home. High above the little village of Quissac rises the residence of beneficent owners, master and mistress, alas ! long since gone to their rest. From its terrace the eye commands a vast and beautiful panorama, a richly cultivated plain dotted with villages and framed by the blue Cevennes. Tea served after English fashion and by a dear countrywoman, everywhere " le confortable Anglais" admittedly unattainable by French housewives, could not for a single moment make me forget that I was in France. And when the dinner gong sounded came the final, the unequivocal, proof of distance. Imagine dining out of doors and in evening dress at eight o'clock in the last week of August ! The table was set on the wide balcony of the upper floor, high above lawn and bosquets, the most chilly person having here nothing to fear. It is above all things the French climate that transports us so far from home and makes us 126 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES feel ourselves hundreds, nay, thousands of miles away. I have elsewhere, perhaps ofttimes, dwelt on the luminosity of the atmosphere in southern and south-western France. To-night not a breath was stirring, the outer radiance was the radiance of stars only, yet so limpid, so lustrous the air that cloudless moonlight could hardly have made every object seem clearer, more distinct. The feeling inspired by such conditions is that of enchantment. For the nonce we may yield to a spell, fancy ourselves in Armida's enchanted garden or other " delightful land of Faery." Not for long, however ! Pleasant practical matters soon recall us to the life of every day. That laborious, out-of-door existence, which seems sordid in superfine English eyes, but which is never without the gaiety that enchanted Gold- smith and Sterne a hundred and fifty years ago. Whilst host and guest dined on the balcony, the farming folk and such of the household as could be spared were enjoying a starlit supper elsewhere. Later, my hostess took me down- stairs and introduced her English visitor to a merry but strictly decorous party having a special bit of sward to themselves, bailiff, vintagers, stockmen, dairywoman, washerwoman and odd hands making up a round dozen of men, women QUISSAC AND SAUVE 127 and boys. All seemed quite at home, and chatted easily with their employer and the visitor, by no means perturbed, rather pleased by the intrusion. And here I will mention one of those incidents that lead English observers into so many mis- conceptions concerning French rural life. Little things that seem sordid, even brutifying to insular eyes, really arise from incompatible standards. The Frenchman's ideal of material comfort begins and ends with solvency, the sense of absolute security from want in old age. Small comforts he sets little store by; provided that he gets a good dinner, lesser considerations go. I do not hesitate to say that the comforts enjoyed by our own farm-servants half a century ago were far in excess of those thought more than sufficient by French labourers and their employers. On the following day my hosts took me round the farmery, fowl-run, piggeries, neat-houses and stalls being inspected one by one. When we came to the last named, I noticed at the door of the long building and on a level with the feeding troughs for oxen, a bed-shaped wooden box piled up with fresh clean straw. 'That is where our stockman sleeps," ex- plained the lady. Here, then, quite contentedly slept the herds- man of a large estate in nineteenth-century 128 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES France, whilst his English compeers two genera- tions before, and in much humbler employ, had their tidy bedroom and comfortable bed under the farmer's roof. What would my own Suffolk ploughmen have said to the notion of spending the night in an ox-stall ? But autres pays, autres mceurs. In Deroulede's fine little poem, " Bon gite," a famished, foot-sore soldier returning home is generously entreated by a poor housewife. When she sets about preparing a bed for him, he remonstrates "Good dame, what means that new-made bed, Those sheets so finely spun ? On heaped-up straw in cattle-shed, I'd snore till rise of sun." The compensations for apparent hardship in the case of French peasants are many and great. In Henry James's great series of dissolving views called The American Scene, he describes the heterogeneous masses as having " a promoted look." The French proletariat have not a pro- moted look, rather one of inherited, traditional stability and self-respect. One and all, more- over, are promoting themselves, rising by a slow evolutionary process from the condition of wage- earner to that of metayer, tenant, lastly free- holder. Although the immediate environs of Quissac QUISSAC AND SAUVE 129 and Sauve are not remarkable, magnificent pros- pects are obtained a little farther afield our drives and walks abounded in interest and associations ! Strange but true it is that we can hardly halt anywhere in France without coming upon historic, literary or artistic memorials. Every town and village is redolent of tradition, hardly a spot but is glorified by genius ! Thus, half-an-hour's drive from our village still stands the chateau and birthplace of Florian, the Pollux of fabulists, La Fontaine being the Castor, no other stars of similar magnitude shining in their especial arc. Jean-Pierre Claris de Florian was born here in 1755, just sixty years after the great fabulist's death. Nephew of a marquis, himself nephew- in-law of Voltaire, endowed with native wit and gaiety, the young man was a welcome guest at Fernay, and no wonder ! His enchanting fables did not see the light till after Voltaire's death, but we will hope that some of them had delighted his host in recitation. Many of us who loved French in early years have a warm corner in our hearts for " Numa Pompilius," but Florian will live as the second fabulist of France, to my own thinking twin of his forerunner. How full of wisdom, wit and sparkle are these apologues! Take, for instance, the following, 130 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES which to the best of my ability I have rendered into our mother tongue VANITY (LE PETIT CHIEN). i Once on a time and far away, The elephant stood first in might, He had by many a forest fray At last usurped the lion's right. On peace and reign unquestioned bent, The ruler in his pride of place, Forthwith to life-long banishment Doomed members of the lion race. ii Dispirited, their best laid low, The vanquished could but yield to fate, And turn their backs upon the foe In silence nursing grief and hate. A poodle neatly cropped and clipped, With tasselled tail made leonine, On hearing of the stern rescript, Straightway set up a piteous whine. in " Alas ! " he moaned. " Ah, woe is me ! Where, tyrant, shall I shelter find ; Advancing years what will they be, My home and comforts left behind?" A spaniel hastened at the cry, " Come, mate, what's this to-do about ? " " Oh, oh," the other gulped reply, " For exile we must all set out ! " IV "Must all?" "No, you are safe, good friend; The cruel law smites us alone; Here undisturbed your days may end, The lions must perforce begone." QUISSAC AND SAUVE 131 "The lions? Brother, pray with these, What part or lot have such as you ? " "What part, forsooth? You love to tease; You know I am a lion too." 1 Here is another, a poem of essential worldly wisdom, to be bracketed with Browning's equally oracular "The Statue and the Bust," fable and poem forming a compendium. THE FLIGHTY PURPOSE PAYSAN AND LA RIVIERE). " I now intend to change my ways " Thus Juan said "No more for me A round on round of idle days 'Mid soul-debasing company. I've pleasure woo'd from year to year As by a siren onward lured, At last of roystering, once held dear, I'm as a man of sickness cured. "Unto the world I bid farewell, My mind to retrospection give, Remote as hermit in his cell, For wisdom and wise friends I'll live." "Is Thursday's worldling, Friday's sage? Too good such news," I bantering spoke. " How oft you've vowed to turn the page, Each promise vanishing like smoke! "And when the start?" "Next week not this." "Ah, you but play with words again." "Nay, do not doubt me; hard it is To break at once a life-long chain." 1 The first translation appeared with others in French Men, Women and Books, 1910. The second was lately issued in the Westminster Gazette. K 2 132 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES Came we unto the riverside, Where motionless a rustic sate, His gaze fixed on the flowing tide. " Ho, mate, why thus so still and squat ? " "Good sirs, bound to yon town am I; No bridge anear, I sit and sit Until these waters have run dry, So that afoot I get to it." "A living parable behold, My friend ! " quoth I. " Upon the brim You, too, will gaze until you're old, But never boldly take a swim ! " As far as I know, no memorial has as yet been raised to the fabulist either at Quissac or at Sauve, but as long as the French language lasts successive generations will keep his memory green. Certain of his fables every little scholar knows by heart. Associations of other kinds are come upon by travellers bound from Quissac to Le Vigan, that charming little centre of silkworm rearing described by me elsewhere. A few miles from our village lies Ganges, a name for ever famous in the annals of political economy and progress. " From Ganges/' wrote the great Suffolk farmer in July 1787, "to the mountain of rough ground which I crossed " (in the direction of Montdardier), " the ride has been the most inter- esting which I have taken in France; the efforts of industry the most vigorous, the animation the QUISSAC AND SAUVE 133 most lively. An activity has been here that has swept away all difficulties before it and clothed the very rocks with verdure. It would be a disgrace to common sense to ask the cause; the enjoyment of property must have done it. Give a man the sure possession of a bleak rock> and he will turn it into a garden" The italics are my own. When will Arthur Young have his tablet in Westminster Abbey, I wonder? The department of the Card offers an anomaly of the greatest historic interest. Here and here only throughout the length and breadth of France villages are found without a Catholic church, communities that have held fast to Protestantism and the right of private judgment from genera- tion to generation during hundreds of years. Elsewhere, in the Cote d'Or, for instance, as I have described in a former work, Protestantism was completely stamped out by the Revocation, whole villages are now ultramontane, having abjured, the alternatives placed before them being confiscation of property, separation of children and parents, banishment, prison and death. 1 The supremacy of the reformed faith may be gathered from the following facts : A few years back, of the six deputies representing this depart- ment five were Protestant and the sixth was a 1 See Friendly Faces> chap. xvi. 134 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES Jew. The Cornell General or provincial council numbered twenty-three Protestants as against seventeen Catholics. The seven members of the Board of Hospitals at Nimes, three of the four inspectors of public health, nine of the twelve head-mistresses of girls' schools, twenty-nine of forty rural magistrates, were Protestants. My host belonged to the same faith, as indeed do most of his class and the great captains of local industry. It is not as in Michelet's fondly- loved St. Georges de Didonne, where only the lowly and the toiler have kept the faith aflame. But whilst neighbours now live peacefully side by side, a gulf still divides Catholic and Pro- testant. Although half a millennium has elapsed since the greatest crime of modern history, the two bodies remain apart : French annexes of Alsace-Lorraine and Germans are not more com- pletely divided. Mixed marriages are of rarest occurrence, intercourse limited to the conventional and the obligatory. There are historic curses that defy lustration. St. Bartholomew is one of these. I must now say something about the country-folks. Calls upon our rustic neighbours, long chats with affable housewives, and rounds of farmery, vineyard and field attracted me more than the magnificent panoramas to be QUISSAC AND SAUVE 135 obtained from Corconne and other villages within an easy drive. George Sand has ever been regarded as a poetizer of rural life, an arch-idealist of her humbler country-folks. At Quissac I made more than one acquaintance that might have stepped out of La -petite Fadette or La mare au Diable. One old woman might have been " la paisible amie," the tranquil friend, to whom the novelist dedicated a novel. Neat, contented, active and self-respecting, she enjoyed a life-interest in two acres and a cottage, her live stock consisting of a goat, a pig and poultry, her invested capital government stock representing a hundred pounds. Meagre as may seem these resources, she was by no means to be pitied or inclined to pity herself, earning a few francs here and there by charing, selling her little crops, what eggs and chickens she could spare, above all things being perfectly independent. A charming idyll the great Sand could have found here. The owner of a thirty-acre farm had lately died, leaving it with all he possessed to two adopted children, a young married couple who for years had acted respectively as steward and housekeeper. We are bound to infer that on the one hand there had been affection and grati- tude, on the other the same qualities with 136 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES conscientiousness in business matters. The foster-father was childless and a widower, but, among the humble as well as the rich French, ambition of posthumous remembrance often actu- ates impersonal bequests. This worthy Jacques Bonhomme might have made an heir of his native village, leaving money for a new school-house or some other public edifice. Very frequently towns and even villages become legatees of the childless, and the worthy man would have been quite sure of a statue, a memorial tablet, or at least of having his name added to a street or square. Before taking leave of Quissac I must mention one curious fact. The Proteus of Odyssean story or the King's daughter and the Efreet in the " Second Royal Mendicant's Adventure," could not more easily transform themselves than the French peasant. Husbandman to-day, mechanic on the morrow, at one season he plies the pruning-hook, at another he turns the lathe. This adaptability of the French mind, strange to say, is nowhere seen to greater advantage than in out-of-the-way regions, just where are mental torpidity and unbendable routine. Not one of Millet's blue-bloused countrymen but masters a dozen handicrafts. Thus, whilst the heraldic insignia of Sauve QUISSAC AND SAUVE 187 should be a trident, those of Quissac should be surmounted by an old shoe ! In the former place the forked branches of the Celtis australis or nettle tree, Ulmacea, afford a most profitable occupation. From its tripartite boughs are made yearly thousands upon thousands of the three- pronged forks used in agriculture. The wood, whilst very durable, is yielding, and lends itself to manipulation. In Florian's birthplace folks make a good living out of old boots and shoes ! Some native genius discovered that, however well worn foot- gear may be, valuable bits of leather may remain in the sole. These fragments are preserved, and from them boot heels are made ; the debris, boots, shoes and slippers, no matter the material, find their way to the soil as manure. But this subject if pursued further would lead to a lane, meta- phorically speaking, without a turning, that is to say to a treatise on French rural economy. VII AN IMMORTALIZER AN IMMORTALIZER IN Kenan's exquisitely phrased preface to his Drames Philosophiques occurs the following sentence which I render into English tant bien que mal: " Side by side are the history of fact and the history of the ideal, the latter materially speaking of what has never taken place, but which, in the ideal sense, has happened a thousand times/' Who when visiting the beautiful little town of Saumur thinks of the historic figures connected with its name? Even the grand personality of Duplessis Morny sinks into insignificance by com- parison with that of the miser's daughter, the gentle, ill-starred Eugenie Grandet ! And who when Carcassonne first breaks upon his view thinks of aught but Nadaud's immortal peasant and his plaint " I'm growing old, just three score year, In wet and dry, in dust and mire, I've sweated, never getting near Fulfilment of my heart's desire. Ah, well I see that bliss below ; Tis Heaven's will to vouchsafe none, Harvest and vintage come and go, I've never got to Carcassonne ! " 141 142 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES The tragi-comic poem of six eight-lined verses ending thus "So sighed a peasant of Limoux, A worthy neighbour bent and worn. ' Ho, friend,' quoth I, ' I'll go with you. We'll sally forth to-morrow morn.' And true enough away we hied, But when our goal was almost won, God rest his soul ! the good man died, He never got to Carcassonne ! " No lover of France certainly should die with- out having seen Carcassonne, foremost of what I will call the pictorial Quadrilateral, no formidable array after the manner of their Austrian cog- nominal, but lovely, dreamlike things. These four walled-in towns or citadels, perfect as when they represented mediaeval defence, are Car- cassonne, Provins in the Brie, Semur in upper Burgundy, and the Breton Guerande, scene of Balzac's Beatrix. To my thinking, and I have visited each, there is little to choose between the first two, but exquisite as is the little Briard acropolis, those imaginary "topless towers of Ilium " of Nadaud's peasant bear the palm. That first view of Carcassonne as we approach it in the railway of itself repays a long and tedious journey. A vision rather than reality, structure of pearly clouds in mid-heaven, seems that opaline pile lightly touched with gold. We AN IMMORTALIZER 143 expect it to evaporate at evenfall ! Vanish it does not, nor wholly bring disillusion, so fair and harmonious are the vistas caught in one circuit of the citadel, mere matter of twenty minutes. But the place by this time has become so familiar to travellers in France and readers of French travel, that I will here confine myself to its glorifier, author of a song that has toured the world. The first biography of the French Tom Moore, published last year, gives no history of this much translated poem. 1 Had, indeed, some worthy vine-grower poured out such a plaint in the poet's ears? Very probably, for one and all of Nadaud's rural poems breathe the very essence of the fields, the inmost nature of the peasant, from first to last they reveal Jacques Bonhomme to us, his con- ceptions of life, his mentality and limitations. Nadaud's career is uneventful, but from one point of view, far from being noteless, he was pre-eminently the happy man. His biographer (A. Varloy) tells us of a smooth, much relished, even an exuberant existence. The son of an excellent bourgeois, whose ancestry, nevertheless, like that of many another, could be traced for 1 My own rendering of this piece and many other of Nadaud's songs and ballads are given in French Men, Women and Books, 1910. American translators have admirably trans- lated Carcassonne. 144 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES six hundred years, his early surroundings were the least lyric imaginable. He was born at Roubaix, the flourishing seat of manufacture near Lille, which, although a mere chef-lieu du canton, does more business with the Bank of France than the big cities of Toulouse, Nimes, Montpellier and others thrice its size. Dress fabrics, cloths and exquisite napery are the products of Roubaix and its suburb; vainly, however, does any uncommercial traveller endeavour to see the weavers at work. Grimy walls and crowded factory chimneys are relieved at Roubaix by gardens public and private, and the town is endowed with museums, libraries, art and technical schools. But Nadaud, like Cyrano de Bergerac, if asked what gave him most delectation, would certainly have replied "Lorsque j'ai fait un vers et que je Taime, Je me paye en me le chantant a moi-meme." Here is the boy's daily programme when a twelve-year-old student at the College Rollin, Paris. The marvel is that the poetic instinct survived such routine, marvellous also the fact that the dry-as-dust in authority was a well-known translator of Walter Scott. If anything could have conjured the Wizard of the North from his grave it was surely these particulars written by AN IMMORTALIZER 145 Gustave Nadaud to his father on the igth of October, 1833 "Five-thirty, rise; five-forty-five, studies till seven-thirty ; breakfast and recreation from seven- thirty till eight; from eight till ten, school; from ten to a quarter past, recreation; from a quarter past ten till half past twelve, school ; then dinner and recreation from one till two. School from two till half past four; collation from half past four till a quarter past five; school from a quarter past five till eight. Supper and to bed." Poetry here was, however, a healthy plant, and in his school-days this born song-writer would scribble verses on his copy-books and read Racine for his own amusement. Turning his back upon the mill-wheels of his native town and an assured future in a Parisian business house, like Gil Bias's friend, il s'est jete dans le bel esprit in other words, he betook himself to the career of a troubadour. Never, surely, did master of song-craft write and sing so many ditties ! Quitting school with a tip-top certificate both as to conduct and application, Gustave Nadaud quickly won fame if not fortune. Hardly of age, he wrote somew r hat Bohemian effusions that at once made the round of Parisian music-halls. The revolution, if it brought topsy-turvydom in politics, like its great forerunner '89 brought 146 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES the apogee of song. The popular young lyrist, ballader and minstrel, for Nadaud accompanied himself on the piano, now made a curious com- pact, agreeing to write songs for twenty years, a firm named Heugel paying him six thousand francs yearly by way of remuneration. Two hundred and forty pounds a year should seem enough for a young man, a bachelor brought up in bourgeois simplicity. But the cost of living in Paris was apparently as high sixty years ago as now. In 1856-7 he wrote to a friend : " How upon such an income I contrived to live and frequent Parisian salons without ever asking a farthing of any one, only those who have been poor can tell." The salons spoken of were not only aristocratic but Imperial, the late Princess Mathilde being an enthusiastic hostess and patroness. Several operettas were composed by Nadaud for her receptions and philanthropic entertainments. Here is a sketch of the French Tom Moore in 1868 by a witty contributor of the Figaro " Nadaud then seated himself at the piano, and of the words he sang I give you full measure, the impression produced by his performance I cannot hope to convey. Quite indescribable was the concord of voice and hands, on the music as on wings each syllable being lightly borne, yet AN IMMORTALIZER 147 its meaning thereby intensified. In one's memory only can such delight be revived and reproduced." With other poets, artists and musicians Nadaud cast vocation to the winds in 1870-1, working in field and other hospitals. " I did my best to act the part of a poor little sister of charity," he wrote to a friend. His patriotic poem, " La grande blessee," was written during that terrible appren- ticeship. With Nadaud henceforward it was a case of roses, roses all the way. Existence he had ever taken easily, warm friendships doing duty for a domestic circle. And did he not write " I dreamed of an ideal love And Benedick remain?" His songs proved a mine of wealth, and the sumptuously illustrated edition got up by friends and admirers brought him 80,000 francs, with which he purchased a villa, christened Carcas- sonne, at Nice, therein spending sunny and sunny- tempered days and dispensing large-hearted hospitality. To luckless brethren of the lyre he held out an ungrudgeful hand, alas ! meeting with scant return. The one bitterness of his life, indeed, was due to ingratitude. Among his papers after death was found the following note ' Throughout the last thirty years I have lent L 2 148 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES sums, large considering my means, to friends, comrades and entire strangers. Never, never, never has a single centime been repaid by a single one of these borrowers. I now vow to myself, never under any circumstances whatever to lend money again ! " Poor song-writers, nevertheless, he posthum- ously befriended. By his will with the bulk of his property was founded " La petite Caisse des chansonniers," a benefit society for less happy Nadauds to come. By aid of these funds, lyrists and ballad-writers unable to find publishers would be held on their onward path. Full of honours, Nadaud died in 1893, monuments being erected to his memory, streets named after him, and undiminished popularity keeping his name alive. And the honour denied to Beranger, to Victor Hugo, to Balzac, the coveted sword and braided coat of the Forty were Nadaud's also. With the witty Piron he could not ironically anticipate his own epitaph thus " Here lies Nadaud who was nothing, not even an Academician ! " Before taking leave of Carcassonne, poetic and picturesque, the most inveterate anti-sightseer should peep into its museum. For this little chef-lieu of the Aude, with a population under thirty thousand, possesses what, indeed, hardly a AN IMMORTALIZER 149 French townling lacks, namely, a picture-gallery. If not remarkable from an artistic point of view, the collection serves to demonstrate the per- sistent, self-denying and constant devotion to culture in France. Times may be peaceful or stormy, seasons may prove disastrous, the withered, thin and blasted ears of corn may devour the seven ears full and golden, the ship of State may be caught in a tornado and lurch alarm- ingly all the same " the man in the street," " the rascal many," to quote Spenser, will have a museum in which, with wife and hopefuls, to spend their Sunday afternoons. The local museum is no less of a necessity to Jacques Bonhomme than his daily pot-au-feu, that dish of soup which, according to Michelet, engenders the national amiability. The splendid public library the determinative is used in the sense of comparison numbers just upon a volume per head, and the art school, school of music, and other institutions tell the same story. Culture throughout the country seems indigenous, to spread of itself, and, above all things, to reach all classes. Culture on French soil is gratuitous, ever free as air ! We must never overlook that primary fact. One or two more noticeable facts about Carcas- sonne. Here was born that eccentric revolu- 150 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES tionary and poetic genius, Fabre cT Eglantine, of whom I have written elsewhere. 1 Yet another historic note. From St. Vincent's tower during the Convention, 1792-5, were taken those measurements, the outcome of which was the metric system. Two mathematicians, by name Delambre and Mechain, were charged with the necessary calculations, the metre, or a ten-millionth part of the distance between the poles and the equator (3*2808 English feet), being made the unit of length. Uniformity of weight followed, and became law in 1799. But to touch upon historic Carcassonne is to glance upon an almost interminable perspective. The chronicle of this charming little city on the bright blue Aude has been penned and re-penned in blood and tears. In 1560 Carcassonne, suffered a preliminary Saint Bartholomew, a general massacre of Protestants announcing the evil days to follow ; days that after five hundred years have left their trace, moral as well as material. 1 See Literary Rambles in France^ 1906. VIII TOULOUSE TOULOUSE A ZIGZAGGERY, indeed, was this journey from Nimes to my Pyrenean valley. That metropolis of art and most heroic town, Montauban, I could not on any account miss. Toulouse necessarily had to be taken on the way to Ingres-ville, as I feel inclined to call the great painter's birthplace and apotheosis. But why write of Toulouse? The magnificent city, its public gardens, churches, superbly housed museums and art galleries, its promenades, drives and panoramas are all particularized by Murray, Joanne and Baedeker. Here, however, as elsewhere, are one or two features which do not come within the province of a guide-book. The only city throughout France that welcomed the Inquisition was among the first to open a Lycee pour jeunes filles. In accordance with the acts of 1880-82 public day schools for girls were opened throughout France; that of Toulouse being fairly representative, I will describe my visit. The school was now closed for the long vaca- tion, but a junior mistress in temporary charge gave us friendliest welcome, and showed us over 153 154 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES the building and annexes. She evidently took immense and quite natural pride in the little world within world of which she formed a part. Her only regret was that we could not see the scholars at work. Here may be noted the wide field thrown open to educated women by the above- named acts, from under-mistresses to Madame la directrice, the position being one of dignity and provision for life, pensions being the reward of long service. The course of study is prepared by the rector of the Toulousain Academy, and the rules of management by the municipal council, thus the programme of instruction bears the signature of the former, whilst the prospectus, dealing with fees, practical details, is signed by the mayor in the name of the latter. We find a decree passed by the town council in 1887 to the effect that in the case of two sisters a fourth of the sum-total of fees should be remitted, of three, a half, of four, three-quarters, and of five, the entire amount. Even the outfit of the boarders must be approved by the same authority. A neat costume is obligatory, and the number and material of undergarments is speci- fied with the utmost minuteness. Besides a sufficient quantity of suitable clothes, each student must bring three pairs of boots, thirty TOULOUSE 155 pocket-handkerchiefs, a bonnet-box, umbrella, parasol, and so forth. Such regulations may at first sight look trivial and unnecessary, but there is much to be said on the other side. From the beginning of the term to the end, the matron, whose province is quite apart from that of the head-mistress, is never worried about the pupils' dress, no shoes in need of repair, no garments to be mended, no letters to be written begging Mme. A. to send her daughter a warm petticoat, Mme. B. to forward a hair-brush, and so on. Again, the uniform obligatory on boarders prevents those petty jealousies and rivalries provoked by fine clothes in girls' schools. Alike the child of the million- aire and of the small official wear the same simple dress. Children are admitted to the lower school between the ages of five and twelve, the classes being in the hands of certificated mistresses. The upper school, at which pupils are received from twelve years and upwards, and are expected to remain five years, offers a complete course of study, lady teachers being aided by professors of the Faculte des Lettres and of the Lycee for youths. Students who have remained throughout the entire period, and have satisfactorily passed final examinations, receive a certificate entitling 156 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES them to admission into the great training college of Sevres or to offer themselves as teachers in schools and families. The curriculum is certainly modest compared with that obligatory on candidates for London University, Girton College, or our senior local examination; but it is an enormous improvement on the old conventual system, and several points are worthy of imitation. Thus a girl quitting the Lycee would have attained, first and foremost, a thorough knowledge of her own language and its literature; she would also possess a fair notion of French common law, of domestic economy, including needlework of the more useful kind, the cutting out and making up of clothes, and the like. Gymnastics are practised daily. In the matter of religion the municipality of Toulouse shows absolute impartiality. No sectarian teach- ing enters into the programme, but Catholics and Protestants and Jews in residence can receive instruction from their respective ministers. The Lycee competes formidably with the con- vents as regards fees. Twenty-eight pounds yearly cover the expense of board, education, and medical attendance at the upper school; twenty- four at the lower; day boarders pay from twelve to fifteen pounds a year; books, the use of the school omnibus, and laundress being extras. TOULOUSE 157 Three hundred scholars in all attended during the scholastic year ending July 1891. Day-pupils not using the school omnibus must be accompanied to and from the school, and here an interesting point is to be touched upon. In so far as was practicable, the Lycee for girls has been modelled on the plan of the time-honoured establishments for boys. As yet a uniform curriculum to begin with was out of the question ; the programme is already too ambitious in the eyes of many, whilst ardent advocates of the higher education of women in France regret that the vices as well as the virtues of the existing system have been retained. Educationists and advanced thinkers generally would fain see a less strait-laced routine, a less stringent supervision, more freedom for play of character. The Lycee student, boy or girl, youth or maiden, is as strictly guarded as a criminal ; not for a moment are these citizens of the future trusted to them- selves. In the vast dormitory of the high school here we see thirty neat compartments with partitions between, containing bed and toilet requisites, and at the extreme end of the room, commanding a view of the rest, is the bed of the under-mistress in charge, surveillante as she is called. Sleeping or waking, the students are watched. This 158 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES massing together of numbers and perpetual super- vision no longer find universal favour. But I am here writing of fifteen years ago. Doubtless were I to repeat my visit I should find progressive changes too numerous for detail. Happy little middle-class Parisians now run to and from their Lycees unattended. Young ladies in society imitate their Anglo-Saxon sisters and have shaken off that incubus, la promeneuse or walking chaperon. Works on social France, as is the case with almanacs, encyclopaedias and the rest, require yearly revision. Manners and customs change no less quickly than headgear and skirts. Charles Lamb would have lived ecstatically at the Languedocian capital. It is a metropolis of beggardom, a medicant's Mecca, a citadel of Jules Richepin's cherished Gueux. Here, indeed, Elia need not have lamented over the decay of beggars, "the all sweeping besom of societarian reformation your only modern Alcides' club to rid time of its abuses is uplift with many-handed sway to extirpate the last fluttering tatters of the bugbear Mendicity. Scrips, wallets, bags, staves, dogs and crutches, the whole mendicant fraternity with all their baggage are fast hasting out of the purlieus of this eleventh persecution." No, here is what the best beloved of English TOULOUSE 159 humorists calls " the oldest and the honourablest form of pauperism," here his vision would have feasted on "Rags, the Beggars' robes and graceful insignia of his profession, his tenure, his full dress, the suit in which he is expected to show himself in public." " He is never out of fashion," adds Lamb, "or limpeth outwardly behind it. He is not required to wear court mourning. He weareth all colours, fearing none. His costume hath undergone less change than the Quaker's. He is the only man in the universe who is not obliged to study appearances." Here, too, would the unmatchable writer have gazed upon more than one "grand fragment, as good as an Elgin marble" And alas ! many deformities more terrible still, and which, perhaps, would have damped even Lamb's ardour. For in the Toulouse of 1894, as in the London of sixty years before, its mendicants " were so many of its sights, its Lions." The city literally swarmed with beggars. At every turn we came upon some living torso, distorted limb and hide- ous sore. Begging seemed to be the accepted livelihood of cripples, blind folk and the infirm. Let us hope that by this time something better has been devised for them all. Was it here that Richepin partly studied the mendicant fraternity, giving us in poetry his astounding appreciation, 160 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES psychological and linguistic? And perhaps the bard of the beggars, like the English humorist, would wish his pauvres Gueux to be left unmolested. The sights of Toulouse would occupy a con- scientious traveller many days. The least leisurely should find time to visit the tiny square called -place du Salin. Here took place the innumerable autos-da-fe of the Toulousain Inquisition, and here, so late as 1618, the cele- brated physician and scientist Vanini was atrociously done to death by that truly infernal tribunal, and for what? For simply differing from the obscurantism of his age, and having opinions of his own. The atrocious sentence passed on Vanini was in part remitted, evidently public opinion already making itself felt. His tongue was cut out, but strangulation preceded the burning alive. Here one cannot help noting the illogical, the puerile if such words are applicable to devilish wicked- ness aspect of such Inquisitorial sentences. If these hounders-down of common-sense and the reasoning faculty really believed, as they affected to believe, that men who possessed and exercised both qualities were thereby doomed to eternal torments, why set up the horrible and costly paraphernalia of the Inquisition? After all, no TOULOUSE 161 matter how ingeniously inventive might be their persecutors, they could only be made to endure terminable and comparatively insignificant tor- ments, not a millionth millionth fraction of eternity ! Refreshing it is to turn to the Toulouse of minstrelsy. The proud seat of the troubadours, the Academy of the Gay Science and of the poetic tourneys revived in our own day ! Mistral's name has long been European, and other English writers have charmingly described the Feux Floraux of the olden time and the society of Lou Felibrige with its revival of Provencal liter- ature. But forty years ago, and twenty years before his masterpiece had found a translator here, he was known and highly esteemed by a great Englishman. In Mill's Correspondence (1910) we find a beautiful letter, and written in fine stately French, from the philosopher to the poet, dated Avignon, October 1869. Mill had sent Mistral the French translation of his essay, "The Subjection of Women," and in answer to the other's thanks and flattering assur- ance of his own conversion, he wrote : " Parmi toutes les adhesions qui ont etc 'donnees a la these de mon petit livre, je ne sais s'il y en a aucune qui m'ont fait plus de plaisir que la votre." M 162 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES The letter as a whole is most interesting, and ends with a characterization, a strikingly beau- tiful passage in the life and teaching of Jesus Christ. Hard were it to match this appreciation among orthodox writers. So transparent is the atmosphere here that the Pyrenees appear within an hour's ride : they are in reality sixty miles off ! Lovely are the clearly outlined forms, flecked with light and shadow, the snowy patches being perfectly distinct. IX MONTAUBAN, OR INGRES-VILLE M 2 MONTAUBAN, OR INGRES-VILLE AN hour by rail from Toulouse lies the ancient city of Montauban, as far as I know unnoticed by English tourists since Arthur Young's time. This superbly placed chef-lieu of the Tarn and Garonne is alike an artistic shrine and a palladium of religious liberty. Here was born that strongly individualized and much contested genius, Domi- nique Ingres, and here Protestantism withstood the League, De Luyne's besieging army and the dragonnades of Louis XIV. The city of Ingres may be thought of by itself; there is plenty of food for reflection here without recalling the prude whose virtue caused more mischief than the vices of all the Montespans and Dubarrys put together. Let us forget the Maintenon terror at Montauban, the breaking up of families, the sending to the galleys of good men and women, the torturings, the roastings alive, and turn to the delightful and soothing souvenirs of genius ! Every French town that has given birth to shining talent is straightway turned into a Walhalla. This ancient town, so strikingly placed, breathes of Ingres, attracts the 165 166 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES traveller by the magic of the painter's name, has become an art pilgrimage. The noble monument erected by the townsfolk to their great citizen and the picture-gallery he bequeathed his native city well repay a much longer journey than that from Toulouse. We see here to what high levels public spirit and local munificence can rise in France. We see also how close, after all, are the ties that knit Frenchman and Frenchman, how the glory of one is made the pride of all. The bronze statue of the painter, with the vast and costly bas-relief imitating his " Apotheosis of Homer " in the Louvre, stand in the public walk, the beauty of which aroused even Arthur Young's enthusiasm. ' The promenade," he wrote in June 1787, "is finely situated. Built on the highest part of the rampart, and commanding that noble vale, or rather plain, one of the richest in Europe, which extends on one side to the sea and in front to the Pyrenees, whose towering masses heaped one upon another in a stupendous manner, and covered with snow, offer a variety of lights and shades from indented forms and the immensity of their projections. This prospect, which con- tains a semicircle of a hundred miles in diameter, has an oceanic vastness in which the eye loses itself; an almost boundless scene of cultivation; an animated but confused mass of infinitely varied MONTAUBAN, OR INGRES-VILLE 167 parts, melting gradually into the distant obscure, from which emerges the amazing frame of the Pyrenees, rearing their silvered heads above the clouds." The Ingres Museum contains, I should say, more works from the hand of a single master than were ever before collected under the same roof. Upwards of a thousand sketches, many of great, power and beauty, are here, besides several portraits and one masterpiece, the Christ in the Temple, brilliant as a canvas of Holman Hunt, although the work of an octogenarian. The painter's easel, palette, and brushes, his violin, the golden laurel-wreath presented to him by his native town, and other relics are reverently gazed at on Sundays by artisans, soldiers and peasant-folk. The local museum in France is something more than a little centre of culture, a place in which to breathe beauty and delight. It is a school of the moral sense, of the nobler passions, and also a temple of fame. Therein the young are taught to revere excellence, and here the ambitious are stimulated by worthy achievement. Ingres-ville recalls an existence stormy as the history of Montauban itself. This stronghold of reform throughout her vicissitudes did not show a bolder, more determined front to the foe than did her great citizen his own enemies and 168 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES detractors. Dominique Ingres and his life-story favour those physicists who discern in native soil and surroundings the formative influences of aptitudes and character. The man and his birth- place matched each other. Indomitableness char- acterized both, and to understand both we must know something of their respective histories. To Montauban Henri Martin's great history does ample justice, to her illustrious son contemporary writers have recently paid worthy tributes. 1 "When a writer is praised above his merits in his own times," wrote Savage Landor, "he is certain of being estimated below them in the times succeeding." In the case of Ingres, opposi- tion and contumely were followed by perhaps excessive laudation whilst he lived, after his death ensuing a long period of reaction. Time has now set the seal upon his fame. The great Montal- banais has been finally received into the national Walhalla. The father of the so-called French Raphael, writes his biographer, was not even a Giovanni Santi. Joseph Ingres, in the words of M, Mom- meja, was un petit ornemaniste, a fabricator of knick-knacks, turning out models in clay, busts in 1 See Les Grands Artistes Ingres^ par J. Momme'ja, Paris, Laurens; Lc Roman d' amour de M. Ingres, par H. Lapauze, Paris, Lafitte, 1911. MONTAUBAN, OR INGRES-VILLE 169 plaster, miniatures and other trifles for sale at country fairs. Who can say, this humble crafts- man may yet have had much to do with his son's aspirations ? An inferior artist can appraise his masters. From the humble artificer and purveyor of bagatelles the youth not only imbibed a passion for art and technical knowledge : he inherited the next best thing to a calling, in other words, a love of music. From the palette throughout his long life Ingres would turn with never-abated enthusiasm to his adored violin. The learned monograph above-named gives a succinct and judicial account of the painter's career. The second writer mentioned tells the story of his inner life; one, indeed, of perpetual and universal interest. For to this sturdy young bourgeois early came a crisis. He found himself suddenly at the part- ing of the ways, on the one hand beckoning Conscience, on the other ambition in the flattering shape of Destiny. To which voice would he hearken? Would love and plighted troth over- rule that insistent siren song, Vocation? Would he yield, as have done thousands of well- intentioned men and women before him, to self- interest and worldly wisdom? The problem to be solved by this brilliantly endowed artist just 170 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES twenty-six how many a historic parallel does it recall ! What three words can convey so much pathos, heroism and generosity as " il gran riffiuto ? " the great renunciation. Does the French language contain a more touching record than that of the great Navarre's farewell to his Huguenot brethren? What bitter tears shed Jeanne d'Albret's son ere he could bring himself to sacrifice conscience on the altar of expediency and a great career ! At the age of twenty we find Dominique Ingres studying in Paris under David, then in his apogee. The son of an obscure provincial, however promising, would hardly be overwhelmed with hospitalities; all the more welcome came the friendliness of an honourable magistrate and his wife, by name Forestier. During five years the young man had lived on terms of closest intimacy with these good folks, under his eyes growing up their only daughter. Alas ! poor Julie. Mighty, says Goethe, is the god of propinquity. On Dominique's part attachment seems to have come insensibly, as a matter of course and despite the precariousness of his position. M. Forestier encouraged the young man's advances. To Julie love for the brilliant winner of the Prix de Rome became an absorp- MONTAUBAN, OR INGRES-VILLE 171 tion, her very life. Not particularly endowed by Nature we have her portrait in M. Mommeja's volume she described her own physiognomy as " not at all remarkable, but expressive of candour and goodness of heart." For Julie, as we shall see, turned her love-story into a little novel, only unearthed the other day by M. Lapauze. The Prix de Rome meant, of course, a call to Rome, the worthy magistrate exacting from his prospective son-in-law a promise that in twelve months' time he would return. During that interval correspondence went on apace not only between the affianced lovers, but between M. Forestier and Ingres, the former taking affec- tionate and not uncritical interest in the other's projects. For Ingres was before all things a projector, anticipating by decades the achieve- ments of his later years. The glow of enthusiasm, the fever of creativeness were at its height. Italy possessed Ingres' entire being when the crisis came. After delays, excuses, pleadings, Julie's father lost patience. He would brook no further tergiversations. Ingres must choose between Italy and Paris; in other words, so the artist interpreted it, between art and marriage, a proud destiny or self-extinction. Never had a young artist more completely 172 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES fallen under the spell of Italy. The recall seemed a death-blow. " On my knees," he wrote to Julie, whom he really loved, " I implore you not to ask this. It is impossible for me to quit immediately a land so full of marvel." But the practical M. Forestier would not give way. Ingres' persistence looked like folly, even madness in his eyes. The young man was with difficulty living from hand to mouth, portraits and small orders barely keeping the wolf from the door. The return home and marriage would ensure his future materially and socially, and up to a certain point render him independent of malevolent criticism. For already Ingres was fiercely attacked by Parisian authorities on art: he had become important enough to be a target. After cruellest heart-searching and prolonged self-reproach, il gran riffiuto was made, youthful passion, worldly advantages and plighted faith were cast to the winds. Henceforth he would live for his palette only, defying poverty, detrac- tion and fiercely antagonistic opinion; if failing in allegiance to others, at least remaining staunch to his first, best, highest self, his genius. Julie, the third imperishable Julie of French romance, never married. Let us hope that the writing of her artless little autobiography called a novel brought consolation. Did she ever MONTAUBAN, OR INGRES-VILLE 173 forgive the recalcitrant? Her story, Emma, ou la fiancee, ends with the aphorism : " Without the scrupulous fulfilment of the given word, there can be neither happiness nor inner peace." Did that backsliding in early life disturb the great painter's stormy but dazzling career ? Who can say? We learn that Ingres was twice, and, according to accredited reports, happily, married. His first wife, a humbly-born maiden from his native province, died in 1849, leaving the septuagenarian so desolate, helpless and stricken that kindly interveners set to work and re-married him. The second Mme. Ingres, although thirty years his junior, gave him, his biographer tells us, " that domestic peace and happiness of which for a brief space he had been deprived." Heaped with honours, named by Napoleon III. Grand Officer of the Legion of Honour, Senator, Member of the Institut, Ingres died in 1869. Within a year of ninety, he was Dominique Ingres to the last, undertaking new works with the enthusiasm and vitality of Titian. A few days before his death he gave a musical party, favourite works of Haydn, Mozart and Beethoven being performed by skilled amateurs. His funeral was a veritable apotheosis, disciples, admirers and detractors swelling the enormous cortege. Those who, like myself, have times without 174 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES number contemplated the master's opus magnum in the Louvre, and have studied his art as repre- sented in the provincial museums, will quit the Musee Ingres with mixed feelings. It must occur to many that, perhaps, after all, it gran nffiuto of opposite kind might have better served art and the artist's fame. Had he returned to France and to Julie at the stipulated period, the follow- ing eighteen years being spent not on Italian but on native soil, how different the result ! Then of his work he could have said, as did Chantecler of his song "Mon chant Qui n'est pas de ces chants qu'on chante en cherchant Mais qu'on regoit du sol natal corame une sdve." Would not most of us willingly give Ingres' greatest classical and historic canvases for one or two portraits, say that of Bertin, or, better still, for a group like that of the Stamiti family ? l What a portrait gallery he would have bequeathed, how would he have made the men and women of his time live again before us ! Ingres, the artist, ever felt sure of himself. Did the lover look back, regretting the broken word, the wrong done to another? We do not know. His life was throughout upright, austere, free 1 Both are reproduced, with many other works, in M. Mom- meja's volume. MONTAUBAN, OR INGRES-VILLE 175 from blot; born and bred a Catholic, he had doubtless Huguenot blood in his veins, many of his most striking characteristics pointed to this inference. A word more concerning Montauban itself. The stronghold of reform, that defied all Riche- lieu's attempts to take it, is to this day essentially a Protestant town. Half of its inhabitants have remained faithful to the faith of their ancestors. Tourists will note the abundance of cypress trees marking Huguenot graves, the capital of Tarn and Garonne is a veritable Calvinistic Campo Santo. After the Revocation, many families fled hence to England, their descendants to this day loving and reverencing the country which gave them a home. Montauban, as we should expect, has raised a splendid monument to its one great citizen. Since writing these lines, an Ingres exhibition has been opened in the Georges Petit Gallery, Paris. Apropos of this event, the Revue des Deux Mondes (May 15, 1911) contains a striking paper by the art-critic, M. de Sizeraine. Some of the conclusions here arrived at are startling. Certain authorities on art are said to regard the great Montalbanais as a victim of daltonism in other words, colour-blind ! In company of the mere amateur, this authority 176 IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES turns with relief from the master's historical and allegorical pieces to his wonderfully Speaking portraits. Here, he says, all is simple, nothing is commonplace, nothing is unexpected, and yet nothing resembles what we have seen elsewhere; we find no embellishment, no stultification. He adds : " In art, as in literature, works which survive are perhaps those in which the artist or writer has put the most of himself, not those in which he has had most faith. The "Vceu de Louis XIII.," the "Thetis" of Ingres, we may compare to Voltaire's Henriade and to the Franciade of Ronsard, all belong to the category of the opus magnum that has failed, and of which its creator is proud." With the following charm- ing simile the essay closes " Posterity is a great lady, she passes, reviews the opus magnum, la grande machine disdain- fully, satirically; all seems lost, the artist con- demned. But by chance she catches sight of a neglected picture turned to the wall in a corner or passage, some happy inspiration that has cost its author little pains, but in which he has not striven beyond his powers, and in which he has put the best of himself. The grande dame catches it up, holds it to the light. 'Ha! here is something pretty ! ' she cries. And the artist's fame is assured." MONTAUBAN, OR INGRES-VILLE 177 Has not Victor Hugo focused the same truth in a line " Ici-bas, le joli c'est le n