CALIFORNIA 
 AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE 
 
 CIRCULAR 9 
 February, 1927 
 
 RABBIT RAISING 
 
 H. M. BUTTERFIELD and W. E. LLOYD 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 THE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, College of Agriculture, 
 University of California, and United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. Dis- 
 tributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914. B. H. Crocheron, 
 Director, California Agricultural Extension Service, 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRINTING OFFICE 
 
 BERKELLY, CALIFORNIA 
 
 1927 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2011 with funding from 
 
 University of California, Davis Libraries 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/rabbitraising09butt 
 
RABBIT RAISING 
 
 H. M. BUTTEEFIELDi and W. E. LLOYD2 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 Importance of the Rahhit Industry. — Rabbit raising as a profitable 
 enterprise has become well established in many parts of the United 
 States, but nowhere in the country has the industry been so greatly 
 developed as in California. California is probably producing from 
 70 to 80 per cent of all the rabbits in the United States. Southern 
 California alone sold approximately one million dollars worth of 
 rabbit meat in 1925, and the number of rabbits dressed weekly has 
 been estimated at twenty thousand. In addition to the domestic 
 supply there were more than twenty-tw^o million dollars worth of 
 undressed rabbit furs imported in 1925^. Australia, Belgium, the 
 United Kingdom, and New Zealand supplied the greater part of our 
 imports. 
 
 Branches of the Industry. — The products of rabbit raising are 
 meat, fur, breeding stock, and fancy stock. A limited number of 
 rabbits are used in laboratories. Rabbit manure is a by-product of 
 considerable importance where rabbits are kept in large numbers. 
 
 Meat production ranks first in importance with fur production 
 gaining in importance and popularity. Rabbit leather, hair for felt, 
 glue, and fertilizer are by-products from the establishments using 
 rabbit pelts. The complete utilization of all rabbit products is im- 
 portant in securing the greatest possible returns in the industry. 
 
 Borne Dangers to Avoid. — Rabbit booms have occasionally swept 
 the country, as in the case of the Belgian Hare craze of several years 
 ago. The recent World AVar greatly increased rabbit raising as a 
 means of adding to the meat supply. Sudden and abnormal increases 
 in rabbit production usually lead to financial loss because the pro- 
 ducers are unable to find a ready market for the products at prices 
 that will allow^ a fair rate of interest on the high prices paid for stock. 
 The high prices paid for breeding stock during the rabbit booms 
 rarely bring a profit to anyone but the established breeder. 
 
 1 Supervisor of Agricultural Correspondence Courses, College of Agriculture. 
 
 2 Associate Poultry Husbandman in the Experiment Station. 
 
 3 Dept. of Commerce : Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce. Annual 
 tabulation of coney and rabbit pelts imported. 1925. 
 
4 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 Some recent investments in the production of fur rabbits are not 
 founded entirely on a safe basis. Too often the promoter is primarily 
 concerned with the sale of real estate or else in the disposal of breed- 
 ing stock at fancy prices. The beginner who hopes to secure a de- 
 pendable and adequate return on his investment over a period of 
 years should very carefully consider the economic side of the problem 
 before investing his savings. Rabbit raisers as a rule have made only 
 very modest profits and there is nothing in present conditions to 
 warrant expectation of large returns for meat or fur, considering the 
 industry over a period of years. There is no real advantage to the 
 industry in established rabbit producers profiting at the expense of 
 beginners. 
 
 Beginners are cautioned to be wary of the buy-back schemes 
 because most contracts offered are not enforceable. Some of the 
 profits held out as possibilities are so much above the average that 
 the prospective investor should require extra evidence in the case 
 before spending his money. The question is not what the profit has 
 been in some exceptional case but rather what the investor can hope 
 for under his own limitations. It is always better to figure conserva- 
 tively on the investment and the profits and then be favorably sur- 
 prised later on. Questionable firms should be required to give depend- 
 able references and name the financial supporters. Any firm which 
 refuses such information ought to be held in suspicion. 
 
 Some beginners have been unfamiliar with what constituted a 
 healthy rabbit and often there is a pitiful lack of knowledge as to 
 what the standard is for the breed concerned. As a result these small 
 producers are unable to compete successfully with established breeders 
 and failure is almost sure to result. Even with the best stock the 
 breeder must continually cull out and dispose of the off-grade animals 
 in order to maintain qualities which will meet the buyers' approval. 
 
 Further Considerations for the Beginners. — The possibilities for 
 success in the rabbit industry are dependent on certain conditions 
 that may exist in any district and also on the prospective producer. 
 Both factors are vital. A temporary profit from high priced breeding 
 stock should rarely be a sufficient inducement for investing but if 
 dependable markets for meat, fur, and breeding stock are available 
 and the beginner feels sure that he is capable and willing to properly 
 tend the rabbits, a fair income may be expected. In some ways the 
 rabbit industry is very promising and yet there are many problems 
 which need to be worked out before the owner can feel assured that 
 success is as dependable as in poultry production or in other branches 
 of agriculture where markets are developed and business questions 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 5 
 
 largely settled. It is natural to expect that as any business passes 
 from a sideline occupation to a principal source of income where 
 methods for marketing on a large scale are only partially worked out, 
 there will be a time when beginners will need to proceed cautiously. 
 
 The income from rabbits has been mor^ uncertain than from 
 poultry as a general rule. Rabbits take less land but more labor than 
 chickens. The cost of feed for a rabbit for one year has been esti- 
 mated at $3.50 to $3.75 and the cost of feed for one doe and her 
 yearly increase of 20 young is very close to $12.00, taking California 
 as a whole. This includes the cost of feed until the young are about 
 two months old. Feed and land costs are usually greater close to the 
 large cities yet these costs are in part counterbalanced by a somewhat 
 better market for the products where direct marketing is feasible. 
 An income of about $5.00 for each breeding doe above cost of feed 
 has been obtained in some rabbitries catering to the meat trade. Pro- 
 ducers who were in a position to sell some breeding stock have done 
 better and occasionally an income as great as $1.00 a month for each 
 breeding doe has been secured. The beginner should figure conserva- 
 tively and $5.00 for the offspring of each breeding doe would be about 
 all that he should figure on unless he is so situated as to do better 
 than the average. More will be said about costs and income at the 
 close of this circular. 
 
 Ultimate success in the production of rabbits is very largely 
 dependent on quality of production, quantity of production, economy 
 of production, and efficient distribution and marketing. These factors 
 may seem self evident and yet the neglect of any one may lead to 
 mediocre success or possibly failure. The following discussion will 
 take up these matters in some detail. 
 
 BREEDS AND BREED STANDARDS 
 
 Every prospective producer should become familiar with market 
 demands in order to select rabbits which w^ll find a ready sale. Some 
 rabbits will satisfy the market demands better than others. For ex- 
 ample, a market that prefers a small fryer rabbit weighing fro5n one 
 and one-half to two pounds dressed weight will justify the producer in 
 considering a breed of rabbits that develops early and soon reaches a 
 marketable condition with a low feed cost. Rabbits which are slow to 
 develop, or which do not fill out well when young, are better suited 
 for markets using large meat rabbits weighing from three to five 
 pounds or more. 
 
CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE 
 
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1927] 
 
 RABBIT RAISING 
 
 Many breeders cater to a fur market and sell the meat from rabbits 
 producing the fur for whatever it will bring. The meat from a six- 
 months-old fur rabbit will usually weigh four or five pounds or more 
 and therefore it is important to find a market that is willing to take 
 dressed rabbits of this size with the somewhat lower quality that is 
 usually represented. The production of breeding stock calls for a 
 very wise choice from the many breeds now available. The newer 
 breeds usually sell for more than the old establifihed breeds and the 
 beginner should anticipate a drop in prices for some of the present 
 
 Fig. 1. — 1, Ear. 2, Eye. 3, Nose. 4, Mouth. 5, Dewlap. 6, Cheek. 7, Neck. 
 8, Chest. 9, Shoulder. 10, Flank. 11, Loin. 12, Saddle. 13, Hip. 14, Tail. 
 15, Hock. 16, Belly. 17, Leg. 18, Foot. 39, Toes. 
 
 high-priced new breeds. In nearly all cases the final choice will rest 
 on the value of the animals for meat and fur. 
 
 Rabbit raisers may profit by visiting other rabbitries where the 
 rabbits are being grown for commercial purposes. When making 
 these visits it is well to observe closely and listen attentively but to 
 reserve conclusions until considerable experience has been obtained. 
 Study, observation, and experience will all have their place in deciding 
 what breeds are best and what methods should be followed in produc- 
 ing and selling. 
 
 Another way to see what others are doing is to visit rabbit shows. 
 Shows will give an idea of the comparative popularity of the various 
 breeds and incidentally the requirements for winning a prize. The 
 
8 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 Guide Book and Standard of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders' 
 Association lists the breeds and varieties and gives standards, and the 
 shows illustrate how closely the producers are approaching the ideal 
 set in the standard. A knowledge of this standard is desirable, 
 whether the rabbit raiser expects to exhibit or not. Table 1 includes 
 the important breeds and indicates outstanding points of utility value. 
 Rabbit raisers use many terms which are peculiar to the rabbit 
 industry so the beginner may find the points of the rabbit, as shown 
 in figure 1, useful in understanding some of the breed descriptions. 
 Other terms are defined below : 
 
 Bars — Color bars on the feet. 
 
 Blaze — White color on the nose running up between the ears on the Dutch. 
 
 Butterfly — A dark butterfly marking on the nose, as on the Checkered Giant. 
 
 Cased sTcin — A skin removed without cutting down the belly. 
 
 Chain — Color markings on the side, as on the English. 
 
 Cobby — Short-coupled or stocky. 
 
 Herringbone — Color markings along the spine, as on the Checkered Giant. 
 
 Kindle— To give birth to young. 
 
 Lacing — Black coloring around the ears, as on some New Zealand Eeds. 
 
 Lazy tail — A tail tliat is slow to assume its normal position when moved. 
 
 Litter — The young born at one time. 
 
 Putty nose — Where color runs together on nose of American Checkered 
 
 Giant. 
 Screw tail — A tail that is crooked — a disqualification. 
 Smut — Eefers to black color on the nose, as on Himalayan. 
 SnaTcy — Slender. 
 
 Stops — Black color on the hind feet, as on Himalayan. 
 TicTcing — Wavy black coloring on the outer fur, as on New Zealands. 
 Wry tail — A tail that remains at one side — a disqualification. 
 
 Selection of Breeds. — Most rabbit raisers find it best to start with 
 not more than one or two breeds. It is far easier to learn the char- 
 acteristics and requirements of one breed than of several, and conse- 
 quently success is more certain when only one breed has to be con- 
 sidered. As skill is acquired and markets are developed the producer 
 may find it profitable to cater to several kinds of demands. 
 
 Certain breeds have become quite popular because they have 
 returned a profit and have met with the approval of buyers. For 
 example, the Belgian Hare, the New Zealand Red, and the Flemish 
 Giant are very popular for supplying the market demand for high 
 quality meat. Among the fur rabbits the Chinchilla, the American 
 Blue, and several varieties of Silvers produce the highest quality of 
 furs and at the same time have considerable meat value. All of these 
 breeds are produced in quantity so that stock is easily purchased and 
 the market demand is kept up by a regular supply. Some of the 
 
1927] 
 
 RABBIT RAISING 
 
 Fig. 2.— A. New Zealand Eed buck. B. White Flemish buck. C. Gray Flemish 
 buck. 
 
B 
 
 Fig. 3. — A. Checkered Giant buck, a splendid specimen. Winner, Oakland, 
 1922. B. Argente de Champagne (French Silver) doe. C. Chinchilla doe of good 
 type. 
 
1927] 
 
 RABBIT RAISING 
 
 11 
 
 newer breeds might be more popular if they could be secured in larger 
 quantities and at a less expense. The introduction of a little known 
 breed is not always a paying undertaking. (See figures 2 to 5 for 
 illustrations of some of the popular breeds of rabbits.) 
 
 B 
 
 Fig. 4. — A. Himalaya rabbit. B. Black Dutch doe, the best doe of this breed 
 at the State Fair, 1922. 
 
 There are general considerations which should affect the choice of 
 breeding rabbits, regardless of the breed or variety. Some of these 
 points are : 
 
 1. As healthy and vigorous as possible under various conditions 
 
 of climate; not unduly susceptible to disease. 
 
 2. White, fine grained, firm, delicately flavored meat, in the case 
 
 of meat rabbits. 
 
 3. High dressing percentage with a large percentage of the best 
 
 meat cuts (saddle) ; should be compact, meaty, with fine bone 
 for the meat trade. 
 
 4. Early maturing, reaching market weights and desirable plump- 
 
 ness at an early age. 
 
 5. Sufficient value to pay for keep to the time of marketing and 
 
 still leave a profit for the producer. 
 
12 
 
 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE 
 
 [CiRC. 9 
 
 6. Thrifty on inexpensive food. 
 
 7. Able to reproduce true to color and type. 
 
 8. A good breeder the year around. 
 
 9. Females good mothers, able to bear and rear large litters. 
 
 10. Available and in regular demand at fair prices for producer 
 and buver. 
 
 Fig. 5. — A. New Zealand White. B. White Angora. 
 
 Breeding. — The first concern of the breeder should be with utility 
 rather than with fancy stock, because profit comes before pleasure. 
 Rabbit breeders have too frequently wasted much time on character- 
 istics that were unimportant from the standpoint of utility. Leg bars, 
 black toe nails, and nose or ear markings have little effect on the 
 utility of any rabbit. 
 
1^"^] RABBIT RAISING 13 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF BREEDING 
 
 Purehred. — A rabbit is eligible for registry as a purebred when 
 it meets the existing breed standard, as established by organized 
 breeders, and can show the ancestry of both parents back to the great- 
 grandsires and great-granddams. Usually the parents are purebreds 
 but at present they do not necessarily have to be registered purebreds. 
 The trend is toward more registering as indicated by the policy of a 
 new national organization which plans to close all registry books on 
 January 1, 1928 to all rabbits which are not the offspring of registered 
 parents. Registering an animal in no wise adds to the breeding 
 qualities of the animal. Rabbit breeders can expect greater uniform- 
 ity in the purebred rabbits and can expect these purebreds to pass 
 these characteristics on to the offspring more certainly than rabbits 
 which have not been bred to standard. The closing of registry books 
 to all but the offspring of purebreds is only a further step on the part 
 of organized breeders to maintain the greatest uniformity in the 
 recognized breeds. Some recognized standard is essential before any 
 systematic breeding can be undertaken. Standards for new breeds 
 will likely be established from time to time and changes in old stand- 
 ards made. 
 
 Cross Breeding. — Cross breeding refers to the breeding of animals 
 of dift'erent breeds. Usually the animals in such crosses vary greatly 
 and the characteristics of the progeny cannot be foretold, whereas we 
 can know with some degree of certainty what the characteristics will 
 be when we are breeding purebreds. A rabbit of unknown breeding 
 or which does not meet the breed standard is commonly called a scrub. 
 
 Line Breeding (see fig. 6). — The breeding of animals from a single 
 line of descent as in a family or in families of a common ancestry is 
 called line breeding. The ancestry is limited to a few generations 
 back as a rule. Such breeding combines in the progeny the character- 
 istics especially desired and attempts to exclude everything outside of 
 the chosen ancestral line. This purifies the pedigree and fixes the type 
 within the limits of the particular line. There is only slight danger 
 of outside or alien traits appearing. Results may be predicted and 
 there is a strong hereditary influence to hasten improvements in the 
 desired direction, because of a lack of alien or mixed blood. 
 
 In line breeding it is important to make the matings both from the 
 pedigree records and from individually selected animals in the pens. 
 The type and condition of the individual is just as important as the 
 pedigree. 
 
14 
 
 CALIFORNIA AGRICUI/rURAL EXTENSION SERVICE 
 
 [CiRC. 9 
 
 Inbreeding. — Inbreeding is line breeding carried to the extreme, 
 such as mating father with daughter or mother with son. In some 
 cases breeders even go so far as to breed brother with sister. Most 
 breeders feel safer in introducing outside or unrelated blood after 
 crossing father with daughter or mother with son. Outbreeding 
 refers to this introduction of unrelated blood. 
 
 Male Line 
 
 13 
 
 Unrelated 16^ 
 
 Blood 
 
 •First 
 generation 
 
 -^Second 
 
 generation 
 
 --Third 
 Y generation 
 
 — Fourth 
 ^ generation 
 
 8 
 
 •F if til 
 generation 
 
 ^ £L A X ^ 
 
 52 32 2 32 
 
 — Sixth 
 
 generation 
 
 Fig. 6. — Blaclc stands for male line. White stands for the female line. Blaclc 
 lines trace back to the male parent. Dotted lines trace back to the female parent. 
 Cross-lined circle at the left shows the result of outcrossing or the introduction of 
 new blood. 
 
 Mating Rahhits. — Rabbits which have reached maturity and repre- 
 sent the best individuals in the desired type may be mated. Most 
 rabbits do not reach a breeding age before seven or eight months. If 
 related animals possess the same fault, it is not desirable to mate 
 them, even though they may be quite worthy in other respects. By 
 introducing unrelated blood occasionally it is easier to maintain vigor 
 and fecundity. Each breeder should have in mind the characteristics 
 which he wishes to fix in his animals. It is easier to fix and correlate 
 a limited number of characters than several. The breeder of meat 
 
1927 J RABBIT RAISING 15 
 
 rabbits should consider the breed standard and endeavor to produce 
 early maturing rabbits which will satisfy all of the standard's require- 
 ments. The breeder of fur rabbits not only has to consider the fur 
 quality, but has to have some knowledge of color factors and meat 
 quality. He will find that size and certain colors or color markings 
 are largely inherited. Colors and color markings are grouped as 
 selfs, agoutis, silvers, and specific markings. Color marking within 
 these different groupings can usually be treated as pure, although 
 some reversions may occur because of previous crossing. In addition 
 to inheritance of size and color, attention should be paid to inheritance 
 of fur quality and to a lesser extent to special anatomical character- 
 istics. 
 
 The Sex of Rabbits. — The sex of a rabbit is probably determined 
 at the time the chromosomes in the sex cells unite. As yet no means 
 of definitely influencing the sex in one direction has been found, in 
 spite of some claims to the contrary. The two sexes will be about 
 evenly divided in number. 
 
 Number of Litters. — A doe may be expected to bear from three to 
 five litters of vigorous young each year and a doe should remain a 
 good breeder for three years. The object should be better litters, not 
 more litters. 
 
 Breeding should take place only when both of the parents are in 
 good health. Rabbits should not be bred during a molt. Climatic con- 
 ditions should also be considered because heat and cold affect both the 
 mother and the young. If rabbits are to be exhibited at shows, it is 
 important to have the youngsters at the maximum age for the class 
 at the time of the show. Does should not be bred if they show any 
 ill effects of past breeding. Most of the shows take place in late 
 summer on up until the last of winter. Breeders can look ahead and 
 plan for raising rabbits of the right age. The period of gestation is 
 from thirty to thirty-five days with thirty about the average. 
 
 Number to a Litter. — The rabbit normally has eight nipples. Some 
 Belgian Hares have only six. A doe should not be allowed to keep 
 more than from six to eight young, or one rabbit for each nipple. It 
 is even better to reduce the number of young in a litter to five so that 
 the mother will be able to raise five vigorous rabbits instead of seven 
 or eight weak rabbits. Rapid gains are very essential in keeping down 
 expenses and for this reason it is important to regulate the number 
 in a litter so that early maturity may be secured. 
 
16 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 THE PRACTICE OF BREEDING 
 
 A doe may be bred almost any time in the year but usually a rest 
 is given in the hot summer months. Take the doe to the buck's hutch, 
 never take the buck to the doe's hutch, because she is likely to fight 
 intruders. If the doe is in heat she will take the buck in a few minutes. 
 Successful service is indicated by the buck falling over backward or 
 to one side. But if the doe resents the buck and shows that she is not 
 in heat, remove and try again every two or three days until service 
 is successful. A doe comes in heat about once every two to three weeks 
 and oestrus lasts for three or four days. One service from the buck 
 is better than more. 
 
 Failure of the doe to conceive has been said to be indicated by her 
 making nest long before the time for kindling has arrived, perhaps 
 within a week after breeding. Stamping the hind feet and rubbing 
 the chin on hutch equipment are frequently indications of heat recur- 
 ring. Breed the doe again if she appears not to be with young. 
 
 A mature buck may be allowed to serve three does each week. 
 Young bucks should be used only once or twice a week at first. 
 
 Kindling. — The pregnant doe should not be disturbed just before 
 kindling for fear that she may scatter the young about the hutch and 
 cause their death. See that the prospective mother is well supplied 
 with clean fresh water and straw nesting material. Just before 
 kindling she will make the nest and will line it with hair or fur pulled 
 from her belly. The young are born naked and with their eyes closed. 
 
 HUTCHES AND RUNWAYS 
 
 Essentials of a Good Hutch. — Rabbit hutches should be convenient, 
 sanitary, suitable for the purpose for which used, permanent and 
 economical, and have a reasonably good appearance. Bad housing 
 methods can only end in trouble and the breeder with poor equipment 
 is not in a position to sell his stock advantageously. 
 
 Sunlight and fresh air are essentials for good growth. Sunlight 
 should reach the inside of all hutches, especially hutches where young 
 are being developed. The violet rays of sunlight help prevent rickets, 
 and sunlight is knoAvn to be invigorating for all young animals. Sun- 
 light is also one of the best disinfectants. 
 
 Pure, fresh air is very important. If the rabbits are forced to 
 breathe air polluted with ammonia fumes, snuffles and respiratory 
 
1927 
 
 RABBIT RAISING 
 
 17 
 
 diseases are favored. It is interesting to note that rabbits which are 
 raised where there is plenty of fresh air and sunlight rarely are 
 affected with respiratory diseases. 
 
 Dryness within the hutch should be combined with sunlight and 
 fresh air. Protection from rain and from leaky hutches tierced above 
 will prevent disease and sickness that may otherwise appear. 
 
 Excessive heat kills many rabbits each year. A cool, well aerated 
 hutch, sheltered somewhat from the hot sun by means of shade trees 
 or lath, will prevent much of this trouble. Burlap or canvas sus- 
 
 Fig. 7. — The recommended 3-tier rabbit hutch. Note how the doors are 
 braced and how they close over the floor. 
 
 pended from the projecting roof of the open front hutch will protect 
 the rabbits in bad weather. Large rabbitries sometimes use a rabbit 
 house in which to place the hutches, but such protection should never 
 exclude the sunlight that is so important for good health. 
 
 A well arranged rabbitry Avill greatly reduce the labor necessary 
 to care for the rabbits. Since the cost of labor during the first three 
 months about equals the cost of feed for a rabbit, it is easy to see 
 that any appreciable lessening of the labor cost tends to make the 
 large commercial enterprise more economical. 
 
 Hutches may be built with a height of two to three tiers, that is 
 with two or three compartments built one above the other. (See figs. 
 7 and 8.) The height of the tiered hutches should be regulated by 
 
18 
 
 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE 
 
 [Cmc. 9 
 
 the height of the caretaker. If the floor of the bottom hutch is within 
 six or eight inches of the ground tlie person of normal height will have 
 no difficulty in reaching the top hutch. Boys and girls or women may 
 find the three-tier hutch too high. In this case it would be better to 
 used a two-tier hutch so that the top hutch could be taken care of 
 without any difficulty. 
 
 Hutch Equipment and Arrangement. — Many good hutches are 
 being used in California and success is being secured with various 
 forms. However some types of hutches have given more or less 
 trouble in the hands of beginners. Most of the standard types of 
 
 Fig. 8. — A 2-tier rabbit hutch showing a type of door not to use and a 
 separate nesting compartment that results in unnecessary expense. The feeding 
 rack should not extend the full depth of the hutch as here shoAvn, because of 
 the tendency of waste hay to clog the toilet. 
 
 hutches have been tested out at the Branch of the College of Agricul- 
 ture at Davis and the one found to give best results is shown in figures 
 7 and 9. It is believed that this hutch will be efficient and economical 
 under all ordinary conditions found in California. Plans for this 
 hutch are given in figure 9. 
 
 Feeding, watering, and cleaning devices should be so arranged as 
 to require the least amount of labor. Usually a V-shaped central 
 feeder for hay is best. Grain and water are placed in earthenware 
 dishes. Dpor feeders, as a rule, are easily detached by the rabbits, or 
 permit wasting of feed. 
 
 The toilet should be placed at the rear of the hutch away from the 
 hay and the nest. It is a mistake to use slatted floors or wire covered 
 
1927] 
 
 RABBIT RAISING 
 
 19 
 
 floors for the purpose of cleaning hutches. Such floor coverings are 
 hard on the rabbits' feet, are usually drafty, and will not be kept 
 sanitary. The toilet should be separated from the tongue-and-groove 
 floor and to the underside of the floor should be tacked hardware 
 
 /?oof nof shot^n 
 
 Pear Elevation 
 
 fND fi EI/ATI ON 
 
 Univerjify of Cd/ifornia, College of Agriculture 
 Poultry Husbondry Division, Dovu, Cblifi 
 THQEE T/fP I^ABd/T HUTCH 
 
 D&signed by yV. e. Uoc/d Oro^vn dy ^^ Oec, /9a6 
 
 rig. 9. — Plans for a 3-tier, 6-compartment rabbit hutch. 
 
 cloth ("fruit drying cloth") or heavy galvanized wire netting with 
 a mesh not larger than about one inch. Beneath the toilet, place a 
 galvanized iron pan and have this pan slip in from an opening at the 
 rear of the hutch. One pan can cover the space occupied by the toilets 
 in two adjoining compartments. 
 
20 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 The hutch door should extend the full length of the hutch and the 
 outer end cleats of the door should fit snugly over the edge of flooring 
 at the bottom. (See figs. 7 and 9.) Such a door is not easily clogged 
 with hay or litter. There is no special advantage in having a separate 
 door in front of the nest. Odd shaped doors are costly and unneces- 
 sary. Rectangular doors are most easily constructed and can be used 
 with the V-shaped feeder if the under space about the feeder is 
 boarded up straight and solid. Each door should be equipped with 
 good hinges and easily closing cheap catches. All doors should be 
 covered with inch-mesh, galvanized wire netting rather than welded 
 wire or other material. The wire netting is cheap, available every- 
 where, durable, and cannot be spread or gnawed by the rabbits. It 
 will prevent rabbits from gnawing the wood if placed on the inside 
 of the doors. The small mesh will prevent even the smallest rabbits 
 from escaping. 
 
 Does should have a nest box placed in the end of the hutch opposite 
 the central feeder. A good size for the nest is 12 inches wide, 12 inches 
 high and 24 inches long. The nest may be easily constructed out of 
 a dry-goods box by knocking off the top and then using the top for 
 a lid. This top should be cleated so that it can be put on and taken 
 off at will. Place a low partition in the nest so that the nest material 
 will be held in the back half. This partition will also serve to keep the 
 young in the nest until they are old enough to come out. Have the 
 entrance to the nest in the front half. Then if the doe enters the nest 
 box quickly she will not be so likely to injure the young rabbits. The 
 top of the hutch nest should be flat so that the mother can use it as a 
 place of refuge at weaning time. 
 
 Runways or developing pens will be needed for growing rabbits. 
 One of these knock-down out-door rabbit runs is shown in the plans 
 illustrated in figures 10 and 11. Such runways may be 5 ft. by 6 ft. 
 and should be approximately 2V2 ft. high. They can be moved about 
 over green feed growing in the open. The wire netting used for the 
 floor enables the rabbits to eat the feed and at the same time prevents 
 them from digging out. Sunlight is stimulating in its effect on the 
 young rabbits. If the weather is very hot, however, some protection 
 from the sun will be needed. 
 
 A rabbit house should be large enough to hold all of the hutches 
 and permit storage of feed, such as alfalfa hay and rolled barley. 
 The most progressive rabbit raisers endeavor to buy feed in ton or 
 half-ton lots as a minimum, and this necessitates adequate storage 
 facilities. If the feed is stored in a separate compartment at the end 
 of the rabbit house, be sure to have it proof against rats and mice. 
 
1927] 
 
 RABBIT RAISING 
 
 21 
 
 S/de E'lei^aflon 
 
 J:"A3i' bo/f yv/fh yv/ng nut 
 
 Univen^ity cf Cb/ifomb 
 
 College oT /^r/culture 
 
 Cbm, (2]lfl\ 
 
 fbultry Hustxjfidfy Dim ion 
 
 QABdir R£/iR/f)/6 fGi 
 
 Oesigne<^ bu n.^.L/oud 
 Drawn h^ LSJ. Oec: /9£6 
 
 Corner Detai/ 
 
 Fig. 10. — Plans for a rearing pen with two compartments 
 
22 
 
 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE 
 
 [CiRC. 9 
 
 The floor of the rabbit house should be made of concrete and con- 
 nected with drains so that when the floor is hosed out weekly the water 
 will be carried away quickly. Hutches should be placed crosswise of 
 the rabbit house which faces the south so that sunlight will enter each 
 hutch part of the day. Hutches can be placed lengthwise of this 
 rabbit house but in this case the hutches should be out from the rear 
 wall to permit removal of the toilet pans. Some sunshine will be 
 needed in any case. Glass is seldom used in rabbit houses because of 
 
 Fig. 11. — A 2-compartment rearing pen. 
 
 our mild climate. Ordinary glass also excludes the ultra-violet rays 
 of the sun (see leg weakness). 
 
 Hutch cost can be estimated in a general way only, because lumber 
 and labor costs vary widely in the different parts of the state. Some 
 of the modern 4 to 6-compartment hutches have cost from $16.00 to 
 $20.00 for all materials and labor. The housing charge for rabbits 
 should be somewhat less than for poultry. A cost of $3.00 to $4.00 a 
 compartment may be expected. 
 
 The following list of building materials can be used for the hutch 
 which we have found satisfactory. Any lumber yard can supply an 
 estimate of the cost of the materials here listed. 
 
1927] 
 
 RABBIT RAISING 
 
 23 
 
 Specifications and List of Material for a 3-Tier Eabbit Hutch 
 
 Pieces Size Kind of lumber* Place 
 
 27 I"x4"x8' T&G Douglas fir (Oregon Floors. 9 pieces for each floor. 
 
 pine) . ■ 
 
 15 I"x4"x7' T&G Douglas fir (Oregon Roof. Cut to 30 pieces l"x4"x 
 
 pine) 3'6". 
 
 18 I"x4"x6' T&G Douglas fir (Oregon Ends. 9 pieces for each end. 
 
 pine) 
 
 Roof cleats or strips. 
 
 Backs each floor. Cut to 2 pieces 
 
 l"xlO" 8'2^ 
 Backs each floor. Cut to 1 piece 
 
 I"xl0"x8'2^ 
 Fronts of feed racks. Cut to 2 
 
 pieces I"xl0"x5'. 
 Back uprights. Cut to 2 pieces 
 
 I"x3''x5'6^ 
 Front uprights. Cut to 2 pieces 
 
 I"x3"x5'83^". 
 Front and back top rails. Cut to 
 
 2 pieces I"x3"x8'2". 
 Bottom slats for toilet pans. Cut 
 
 to 6 pieces I"x3"x2'. 
 Back partitions. Cut to 3 pieces 
 
 I"xl2"xl7^ 
 Front of partitions under feed 
 
 racks. Cut to 3 pieces l"x5"x 
 
 Floor joists. Cut to 12 pieces 
 
 I"x2"x2'6". 
 Strips for top of feed racks. Cut 
 
 to 6 pieces l"x2"xl'10". 
 Doors. For top and bottom 
 
 rails cut 12 pieces l"x2"x2'9K" 
 
 and 6 pieces 1 "x2"x3', for braces. 
 Doors. For end rails to be cut 
 
 into 12 pieces I"x2"xl7". 
 
 Doors, two hinges for each door. 
 Doors, one for each door. 
 Hutch backs. Cut into 3 pieces 
 
 l'x8'. 
 Doors and feed racks. Cut 6 
 pieces for the doors, each 18"x 
 33". Cut 3 pieces for the feed 
 racks, each 18"x20". 
 20" l"mesh24" wide hardware or fruit dry- Toilets. Cut into 3 pieces, each 
 
 ing cloth 8"x20". 
 
 3 I3^"x8"xl9" galvanized droppings trays One for each toilet opening. 
 
 3 lb. 8d box nails, cement coated. 
 
 2 I"x4"x8' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 1 I"xl0"xl8' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 
 1 I"xl0"xl0' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 
 1 I"xl0"xl0' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 
 1 I"x3"xl2' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 
 1 I"x3"xl2' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 
 1 I"x3"xl8' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 
 1 I"x3"xl2' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 
 1 I"xl2"x6' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 
 1 I"x5"x6' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 
 3 I"x2"xl0' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 1 I"x2"xl2" Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 3 I"x2"xl8' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 
 1 I"x2"x20' Douglas fir (Oregon pine 
 
 Hardware 
 
 6 pair 2" tight pin butt or 3" strap hinges 
 
 6 2" turn buttons 
 
 24' 1" mesh 12" wide poultry netting, ga 
 
 vanized after weaving 
 213^' 1" mesh 18" wide poultry netting, ga 
 
 vanized after weaving 
 
 * Douglas fir (Oregon pine) has been mentioned in the list of materials but other available lumber 
 of suitable grade may be substituted. 
 
24 
 
 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE 
 
 [CiRC. 9 
 
 Materials and Specifications for a 2 -Compartment Eabbit Bearing Pen 
 
 Pieces 
 4 
 
 Size 
 I"x4"xl2' 
 
 I"x4"xl0' 
 
 Kind of lumber* 
 
 Douglas fir (Oregon pine) 
 or redwood 
 
 Douglas fir (Oregon pine) 
 or redwood 
 
 I"x3"xl0' 
 
 Douglas fir (Oregon pine) 
 or redwood 
 
 2 2"x2"xl0' Douglas fir (Oregon pine) 
 
 1 I"xl2"x4' 
 
 Douglas fir (Oregon pine) 
 or redwood 
 
 Hardware 
 
 2 lb. 8d box nails, cement coated. 
 
 2 pair Strap hinges 
 
 12 
 
 39' 
 
 5' 
 
 12' 
 
 10' 
 
 3^^"x3" wing machine bolts (square 
 
 heads) 
 1" mesh 2' wide hexagonal poultry 
 
 netting, galvanized after weaving 
 
 \]4," mesh 5' wide hexagonal poultry 
 netting 
 
 13/^" mesh 5' wide hexagonal poultry 
 
 netting 
 2" mesh 5' wide hexagonal poultry For top 
 
 netting 
 
 Place 
 
 Top and bottom side rails. Two 
 for top rails and two for bottom 
 rails. 
 
 Cut 4 pieces I"x4"x23^' for end 
 rails. 2 pieces I"x4"x23^' for 
 center rails at sides. 4 pieces 
 r'x4"x5' for top and bottom 
 rails across ends. 2 pieces l"x 
 4"x4'9" for top and bottom rails 
 of partition. 1 piece r'x4"x5' 
 for center cross piece at top. 
 
 Cut 2 pieces I"x3"x4'7", one for 
 each feeder top rail. 4 pieces 
 I''x3"x5',*2 cross rails for each 
 door. 4 pieces I"x3"x4'9", 2 
 side rails for each door. 
 
 Cut 4 pieces 2"x2"x23^', end rails, 
 one for each corner. 4 pieces 
 2"x2"xl2", fillers for ends of 
 feeders. 2 pieces 2"x2"x2i4' for 
 end rails of partition. 
 
 Cut into 2 pieces r'xl2"x2' and 
 then saw diagonally to make 4 
 ends of feeders. 
 
 One pair for each door. 
 
 Two for each corner support and 
 
 two for each side at center. 
 Cut 2 pieces 5'x2', one for each 
 
 end. 2 pieces 12'x2', one for 
 
 each side. 1 piece 5'x2' for the 
 
 partition. 
 Cut 2 pieces 5'x23^', one for each 
 
 feeder. 
 For bottom. 
 
 * Douglas fir (Oregon pine) has been mentioned in the list of materials but other available lumber 
 of suitable grade may be substituted. 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING ' 25 
 
 FEEDS AND FEEDING 
 
 PRINCIPLES INVOLVED 
 
 Rabbits require food for growth, maintenance, and reproduction. 
 Feeds which, when combined satisfy these body requirements make 
 up a balanced ration. For example, milk may be considered a balanced 
 ration for the young when first born. As the young grow older their 
 bodies will require somewhat different food in order to carry on the 
 body functions. A well balanced diet should contain suitable amounts 
 of protein, carbohydrates and fat, mineral matter, roughage or bulk, 
 vitamins, and in addition be palatable and have variety. 
 
 Protein is the nitrogenous or muscle-building part of the feed. 
 Carbohydrates, supplied mostly by starches and sugars, give heat and 
 energy. Fat serves the same purpose as the carbohydrates, but is 
 21/4 times as effective. The ratio that exists between the digestible 
 protein on one hand and the digestible carbohydrates and fat on the 
 other is spoken of as the nutritive ratio. Some of the best rations now 
 being used for growing rabbits have a nutritive ratio of approximately 
 1 part digestible protein to 5.2 parts digestible carbohydrates and fat, 
 often expressed as 1 :5.2. Very young rabbits and nursing or bred 
 does will be able to make use of more protein, possibly as much as 
 1 :4. The older rabbits being fattened can use a little more carbo- 
 hydrates and fat, or approximately 1 :6. However rabbits from two 
 to three months old make the best gains when the ration does not 
 contain too large a per cent of carbohydrates and fat. It is the 
 protein that builds muscle and is of greatest importance to the grow- 
 ing animal. 
 
 Mineral matter, such as lime, phosphorus, sulphur, iron, and salt, 
 is needed in small quantities. The bones consist largely of calcium 
 and phosphorus compounds. The blood is rich in iron. Sulfur and 
 phosphorus are a part of some proteins in the body. Connective tissue 
 also contains some mineral matter. Salt (sodium chlorid) is essential 
 in the body of the rabbit, particularly in the blood, and may be sup- 
 plied in the form of salt spools to satisfy the normal requirements of 
 the blood and body tissues. An allowance of i/4 pound of salt to 
 100 pounds of feed should be sufficient. Some forms of mineral 
 matter are being added to rabbit mashes. 
 
 The ration should contain liberal amounts of food factors called 
 vitamins. There are several kinds of vitamins, some of which are 
 concerned mostly with growth, others with the normal functioning of 
 
26 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [ClRC. 9 
 
 the body, and still others with reproduction. If the ration contains 
 plenty of green feed, alfalfa hay, a variety of grain and mill products, 
 and milk or milk products, the rabbits will not suffer for the want of 
 vitamins. Along with the vitamins plenty of sunshine should be 
 provided because sunshine helps prevent rickets. 
 
 Wild rabbits live largely on hulky food or roughage so the feeder 
 should use plenty of bulky food in the ration to prevent indigestion. 
 A fine grade of alfalfa hay is best suited for roughage. Since bulky 
 food contains considerable indigestible crude fiber, some concentrated 
 material should be added to the ration to provide sufficient nourish- 
 ment and to help balance the ration. Rolled barley and rolled oats 
 are widely used for this purpose. Certain mill products, such as the 
 mashes used for dairy cattle, also serve a similar purpose. A limited 
 amount of succulent feed supplies roughage and adds variety and 
 palatahility to the ration. 
 
 Rabbits should be accustomed to the feeds used. A sudden change, 
 even when an improvement is involved, may result in temporary 
 digestive disturbances; therefore any change should be made grad- 
 ually. Wild rabbits eat green food, even green food with dew on it, 
 with impunity, but domestic rabbits would suffer seriously if they 
 were fed such food when they were not accustomed to it in their 
 regular diet. Green feed, if given in moderation, is an excellent sub- 
 stitute for or supplement to the dry roughage. A small amount of 
 greens given regularly, either daily or on certain days in the week, 
 will aid materially in keeping the stock in good, healthy condition. 
 Young rabbits are easily injured by wrong methods of feeding greens. 
 Rabbits often refuse to eat new kinds of feed and in such cases mixing 
 some of the new food with other feed to which the rabbits have become 
 accustomed will usually overcome the difficulty. 
 
 FEEDING PRACTICES 
 
 Amount to Feed. — If rabbits are supplied with a good grade of 
 alfalfa hay and rolled barley, or the equivalent in a good rabbit mash, 
 one or two feedings each day will be quite sufficient. Rabbits eat more 
 at night than in the day time; so it is a good plan to feed in the 
 evening or make the evening meal the largest meal. One method is to 
 feed alfalfa hay in the morning and hay and grain at night. Nursing 
 does and rabbits being fitted for the show may do better with two 
 feedings of grain each day, but some tests indicate that the ordinary 
 meat rabbit will not justify the use of a full feeding of rolled 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 27 
 
 barley twice a day. Two ounces of rolled barley daily or less if other 
 grain is used will be a normal amount. One feeding of grain and 
 one or two feedings of fine alfalfa hay each day should give very satis- 
 factory results for growing meat stock. If different kinds of grain 
 are fed, such as a dairy mash and rolled barley, it may be desirable 
 to feed the mash in the morning and the grain at night. This has 
 been the practice with some rabbit raisers and has given very good 
 results. Some producers do not use any whole grain for young meat 
 rabbits but substitute a suitable rabbit mash. However the cost of 
 such feeds may not always justify their use as compared with the 
 whole grains such as rolled barley and rolled oats. There has been a 
 recent tendency to use whole ground grains in place of some of the 
 mill products on the ground that the whole grains contain more of the 
 essential food factors and are cheaper on the basis of food value 
 contained. Each grower should consider local conditions when select- 
 ing the proper ration. Whole barley may replace rolled barley. 
 
 Green feed, such as carrots, green alfalfa, wild mallow, filaree, beet 
 leaves, wild oats, and green barley add to the value and palatability 
 of the daily ration. Certain kinds of greens like kale and cabbage 
 can be used in limited quantities without fear of bad results but these 
 plants belonging to the mustard family give the urine a very strong 
 odor which tends to make their use objectionable, especially when the 
 rabbits are near dwellings. 
 
 Babbits should be made to clean up their feed before more is given, 
 providing the feed is of good quality. Much of the waste of alfalfa 
 is due to overfeeding, but sometimes it is due to poor quality of the 
 hay. Many rabbit raisers are now chopping the hay to avoid unneces- 
 sary waste. 
 
 Occasionally a substitute for greens may be desired. Recent in- 
 vestigations tend to show that the alfalfa leaf and blossom meal on the 
 market is a substitute for green feed for poultry and this meal, if 
 not too dusty, should give good results for rabbits. It has been found 
 that the nursing doe needs about three times the normal amount of 
 vitamin B to have a good milk flow for the young. Greens, or the 
 meal just mentioned, will be rich in this vitamin under average Cali- 
 fornia conditions, and for this reason may be fed rather liberally to 
 the nursing mother when she has become accustomed to them. 
 
 Several rules have been given for determining the amount of feed 
 to give the rabbits. A general rule has been to use from 1% to 2 
 ounces of feed for each pound of weight as the daily requirement, 
 when the ration consisted of hay, grain, and roots. Such an allowance 
 is very liberal and will include the waste of some hay. In view of 
 
28 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 standard practice it would seem that an allowance of from 1 to l^/^ 
 ounces of food for each pound live weight would be ample where the 
 ration consisted largely of alfalfa hay and rolled barley. A resting 
 doe will require less feed than a bred doe or a nursing doe, so some 
 good judgment should be exercised in regulating the amount of feed. 
 By w^atching the hay in the rack and the grain in the feeding dish 
 the owner will know how the rabbits are cleaning up the feed. 
 
 Some rabbit raisers will want to figure on the proportion of hay 
 to grain and mill products. It is now a common practice to allow 
 nearly 11/2 pounds of alfalfa hay for each pound of grain. In some 
 cases the allowance will be for more grain, as much as 1 pound of 
 grain for 1.2 pounds of hay. These estimates are based on large 
 tonnages of feed and not on the daily food used for special cases. 
 
 Feeding Nursing Does. — Special attention should be given to nurs- 
 ing does. Liberal feeding has already been mentioned. After kindling 
 the doe will be quite thirsty and should be given plenty of water. 
 The milk flow does not start for several hours after kindling, and 
 consequently the mother will not require additional feed at this time. 
 During the first two weeks after kindling the doe will do well on a 
 normal ration consisting of approximately 5 ounces of hay and 4 
 ounces of concentrates for a ten pound rabbit. It will probably be 
 best to use more grain after the first day or two, using up to 8 ounces 
 of grain. As the young grow older and start to eat, as much as 18 
 ounces of grain may be needed for the doe and litter. The hay 
 eaten will also be greater in amount. Figure on supplying from two 
 to three times the normal amount of feed for the doe with young over 
 two weeks old. 
 
 The use of milk at weaning time has been advocated to tide over 
 this trying period until the young are fully accustomed to the adult 
 ration. Sometimes the milk of the nursing doe fails, and in such cases 
 bread and milk can be fed to the young with good results. If the 
 young rabbits refuse to eat this food, try moistening their lips with 
 a little milk. As soon as the young get a taste of the milk, they will 
 probably accept the bread and milk without further difficulty. Sorae 
 of the dried milk on the market may be added to the mash when the 
 price is reasonable. 
 
 Water. — Clean fresh water is one of the essentials in feeding 
 rabbits. Dishes should be rinsed out and a fresh supply of water 
 given night and morning. Water dishes should be scalded out at 
 least once each week in order to prevent the spread of disease by 
 means of infected drinking water. Regular cleaning wdll also remove 
 any organic matter that may accumulate in the water dishes. 
 
^^27] RABBIT RAISING 29 
 
 Cost of Feed. — There is a wide range in the prices which rabbit 
 producers pay for suitable feed. Some producers fail to make a good 
 profit simply because feed is not bought in sufficient quantities or at 
 the right time of year to secure the advantage of a low price. Feed 
 should be bought in quantity soon after harvest when prices are 
 lowest, but any feed bought in this way should be stored where rodents 
 will not trouble, and where the quality will not be injured. Poor 
 grades of hay or smutty grain are to be avoided. A cost of % cent 
 a day for the first two or three months should be a fair average for 
 the feed bill where most of the feed is bought. Feed for the year 
 amounts to from $3.50 to $3.75 for an adult rabbit in some of our 
 commercial rabbitries. This applies to both meat and fur breeds, 
 excepting very heavy rabbits, such as the Giants. 
 
 THE CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF RABBITS 
 
 Handling. — Rabbits should be handled as little as possible. The 
 rabbit which is being fitted for a show should be handled enough, to 
 make it gentle in the hands of the judge or on the judging table. 
 Vicious rabbits are inexcusable and should never be shown. One of 
 the first lessons in keeping rabbits is to learn how to carry a rabbit. 
 Never pick a rabbit up by the ears or the feet. Always take hold of 
 the loose skin over the shoulders with one hand and then place the 
 other hand beneath the rump so that most of the weight of the rabbit 
 will be supported from beneath. (See fig. 12.) If the feet are 
 turned aw^ay from the person there will be less likelihood of receiving 
 scratches in case the rabbit struggles. When a rabbit starts to 
 struggle while it is being carried, simply rest it on the ground or on 
 a table until the struggles cease. 
 
 General care of the Rahh it ry .^-Hutches can be kept sanitary by 
 cleaning them daily and by occasionally hosing them out and disin- 
 fecting. If the manure pans are cleaned out each day and the floor 
 of the hutch scraped to remove any droppings that may be present, 
 little trouble need be expected. The back of the hutch and the floor 
 about the toilet should be disinfected occasionally to help prevent 
 any spread of disease from this source. Any of the good disinfectants, 
 such as the coal tar sheep dips, "compound solution of cresol" con- 
 taining 50 per cent cresylic acid, scalding water and soap, or scalding 
 water and soda, may be used for the purpose, but do not use any 
 material which will be likely to soil the fur of the rabbit. A straw 
 
30 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 litter is sometimes used to keep the hutch clean, but this practice is 
 seldom necessary in our climate. A straw litter is sometimes used in 
 hutches for Giants to prevent ''sore hocks." 
 
 Rabbits are weaned when from six to nine weeks old. Some young- 
 sters for exhibition are left with the mother up to ten weeks. Certain 
 difficulties may be experienced at weaning time, such as diarrhea, pot 
 belly, and slobbers. These troubles will be discussed a little later but 
 most of them are the result of too sudden changes in the feeding 
 
 Fig. 12. — A rabbit held properly is comfortable. 
 
 methods. The excessive use of greens for young rabbits, especially 
 greens wet with dew, has resulted in much trouble. The failure of 
 the mother's milk flow may also be associated with difficulties near 
 the weaning time. Some blame has been placed on the first molt which 
 may start when the young are about six week:, old but under normal 
 conditions this first molt is so imperceptible that it will hardly be 
 noticed and no difficultly on its account need be expected. 
 
 The males or bucks should be separated from the females or does 
 when the rabbits are from two to three months old. At this time the 
 genital organs of the buck are developed sufficiently to permit an 
 accurate identification of the sex. The sexual aperture just in front 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 31 
 
 of the anal opening appears as a slit in does; in bucks it is a round 
 opening from which the male sexual organ will protrude under 
 pressure. 
 
 Young does may be removed from the litter pens when about 
 thirteen weeks old and placed three or four together in rearing pens 
 shown in figure 11. Bucks sometimes start fighting when about four 
 months old and in this case it is well to separate them to stop further 
 trouble. Fighting should be stopped whether it is in the same hutch 
 or between rabbits in different hutches. 
 
 Marking Rahhits. — Valuable rabbits are usually marked on the 
 inside of one ear with a tattoo needle. The number or letter made 
 in the ear is entered on the registry and* pedigree blank. For tempo- 
 rary marks, during exhibitions, simply mark the ear inside with a 
 moistened indelible pencil. 
 
 Castration. — Growth does not differ materially between males and 
 females until after the market age, consequently castration has no 
 advantage for ordinary meat stock. If fur rabbits are to be kept for 
 six months or longer there may be a slight advantage in castration 
 providing the market wants a large rabbit. 
 
 Care in Hot Weather. — During severe hot spells the rabbits should 
 be protected from the heat by hanging wet sacks on the door of the 
 hutches and by sprinkling the floor or ground about the hutch to cool 
 the atmosphere. Hutch floors should not be wet. A spaced lath 
 shelter placed above the hutches helps keep off the sun. The caretaker 
 should provide plenty of fresh water and see that the hutch is well 
 ventilated. Fattening foods should be reduced to a minimum during 
 the hot summer months. Try to avoid having litters arrive during 
 hot weather. 
 
 Records. — All rabbit producers should keep records of the litters, 
 breeding rabbits, and receipts and expenses. An annual inventory of 
 all equipment and stock should be made. Very few rabbit raisers 
 really know w^hether they are making a profit or not. The best answer 
 to questions on profit and loss is a well-kept record book. If improve- 
 ments are to be made, we must first know wherein we are inefficient 
 and we cannot know this without keeping records. 
 
 Official pedigree blanks and hutch record cards can be secured 
 from most rabbit supply houses. Pedigree blanks come in pads and 
 have room for recording the ancestry of a rabbit back to the great- 
 grandsires and great-granddams. In addition to this information the 
 blank contains spaces for recording the date of sale, the name of the 
 person to whom the rabbit is sold, name of the breeder, registry num- 
 
32 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 ber of each rabbit mentioned, also the color. The weight of the rabbit, 
 its name, weight of sire, weight of dam, disqualifications if any, date 
 bred, animal to which bred, and number of the pedigree blank are 
 important items on the pedigree. The pedigree is signed by the 
 breeder and his address should be given. A duplicate of the pedigree 
 should be kept when a sale is made. 
 
 Hutch records are essential in a well kept rabbitry. Duplicates 
 should be kept so that in case one record is destroyed another will be 
 available to supply the desired information. Place the hutch record 
 on the door so that it will not be eaten by the rabbits. A hutch record, 
 such as shown in form A, should record the time of breeding, time 
 of kindling, number in the litter, deaths, and any other information 
 called for. 
 
 Simple debit and credit ledgers are available in any book store. 
 When feed is bought and rabbits or pelts sold, enter this on the ledger. 
 Take an inventory of stock and equipment during any of the slack 
 months of the year. The inventory should show the value of perma- 
 nent improvements and fixtures, real estate involved, equipment, live- 
 stock, and products on hand. The ledger should show the pounds of 
 meat sold and the price, the number and quality of furs sold and the 
 price, stock sold as breeders and the price, and bills receivable. The 
 debit side of the ledger should give the amount and cost of feed used, 
 rabbits bought, cost of improvements, bills payable, and other items 
 of expense. When anything is received, enter this on the debit side ; 
 when anything is released, enter this on the credit side. 
 
 Only by keeping books will rabbit breeders be able to advance 
 intelligently and have legislators make laws favorable to the industry. 
 Transportation costs, tariffs, and scientific investigation can only be 
 influenced to the rabbit-breeder's advantage by keeping books which 
 will conclusively show that the business transactions are being ably 
 recorded. 
 
 Cooperative Buying of Supplies. — One of the important problems 
 in managing the rabbitry is to buy feed and other supplies at a 
 reasonably low cost. Frequently rabbit raisers living near cities are 
 in a poor position to buy well, and a movement has been started in 
 some sections of this state to cooperate in the buying of alfalfa hay 
 and perhaps other supplies. Such a plan is entirely feasible providing 
 the organization is well managed, but there has been a tendency for 
 members to bolt such an organization whenever prices were not 
 entirely satisfactory, and it is to be expected that some producers 
 may be in such a favorable position that they can buy well outside of 
 
1927] 
 
 RABBIT RAISING 
 
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 d 
 
34 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 an organization. A rabbit raiser must be thoroughly imbued with 
 the spirit of cooperation and be capable of working with other rabbit 
 breeders before cooperative buying is to be recommended. 
 
 The Exhibition of Rahhits. — This publication is devoted mostly to 
 the production of utility rabbits; however, some rabbit raisers may 
 want to combine utility with fancy stock, and in this case some 
 knowledge of the care and management of fancy rabbits will be needed. 
 There are special publications on the subject of shows and the exhibi- 
 tion of rabbits so that details can be had. A good utility rabbit fit for 
 meat and high quality fur may also be a good fancy rabbit. Although 
 there may be some divergence between the utility and fancy standards, 
 yet in a general way there is a very close agreement. Our best pure- 
 bred rabbits can be made to adhere very closely to the fancy standard 
 and at the same time meet all normal requirements for meat or fur. 
 Rabbits which are capable of meeting the demand for meat or fur 
 only are excluded from sale as fancy breeders or from receiving prizes 
 and the publicity which prizes bring in exhibitions. Many rabbit 
 raisers will prefer to start with the very best breeders possible, rabbits 
 which are eligible for registry and meet the standards for either 
 utility or fancy. In the final analysis there is some ground for select- 
 ing the pedigreed rabbit even for utility purposes, because it takes 
 several generations of breeding to meet the normal standard and the 
 offspring of such rabbits is usually very uniform in characteristics, 
 such as weight, time of maturity, color of fur and similar factors in 
 which the utility rabbit breeder is vitally interested. 
 
 Fancy rabbits will need about the same care as ordinary utility 
 rabbits. There will be the additional problem of securing maximum 
 size for the age, and approaching the ideal set forth in the standard 
 as nearly as possible. Little disqualifications which in no way inter- 
 fere with the sale of the animal for utility purposes must be over- 
 come for the show. A rabbit which is not close to the maximum 
 weight for the age at the time of the show stands a very poor chance 
 for winning unless it is exceptionally strong in other points, such 
 as color and shape. The exhibitor cannot afford to overlook small 
 disqualifications and should be very familiar with the standard of 
 the breed concerned. It is also a good practice to visit shows and be 
 more or less familiar with the methods usually followed in judging 
 fancy rabbits. 
 
 Fancy rabbits and rabbits sold as breeders will require shipping 
 cases such as that shown in figure 13. Note that packages cannot 
 easily be stacked on this case so the animals are assured plenty of 
 
1927] 
 
 RABBIT RAISING 
 
 35 
 
 air. If the owner has only a single rabbit, he may prefer to carry 
 the animal on the street car to local shows in a light hand carrier. 
 A hand grip should be attached to the top. Ventilation should be 
 provided in all carriers used and they should be cleaned regularly 
 to keep out such diseases as coccidiosis. Only one rabbit should be 
 placed in a compartment because two rabbits in the same compartment 
 may fight and injure each other during shipment. Carriers should be 
 made of ample size for the rabbits being carried, and should be bedded 
 with straw so that the fur coat will not be soiled. A little feed may 
 
 Fig. 13. — Single compartment shipping box, 18 inches wide, 22 inches long, 
 14 inches high at the center and 8 inches at the sides. 
 
 be inclosed if this be deemed necessary. Most breedei:s will prefer 
 to go with the animals or carry them in an automobile, and in such 
 cases feed and water will seldom be necessary. 
 
 The exhibition of rabbits has been of great educational value to 
 producers and to those who would take up rabbit raising as a business. 
 Those communities which have staged rabbit shows have usually been 
 the most progressive in the production of rabbits. The exhibition of 
 rabbits calls for organization among producers. The contacts between 
 members and the public has assisted in increasing the production of 
 rabbits and in the sale of breeding rabbits and rabbit products. In 
 this way rabbit shows have been helpful to both the rabbit fanciers 
 and utility breeders. 
 
36 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 DISEASES AND REMEDIES 
 
 Rabbit owners should see that the hutches are kept dry and 
 sanitary every day in the year. It is very easy to become careless 
 and allow diseases to g'ain a foothold. A thorough spraying of the 
 hutches and manure holders once each week with good disinfectant, 
 should help keep the hutches sanitary. Sunshine within the hutches 
 will also assist in the disinfecting. 
 
 All feed and water should be kept in clean holders away from 
 manure and urine. Coccidiosis spreads almost entirely through soiled 
 feed and dampness. 
 
 When securing new rabbits be exceedingly careful to purchase only 
 healthy, vigorous animals. If the breeder is ignorant in these matters, 
 he should secure the services of someone who is familiar with them. 
 Then by proper care and management the rabbits may be kept prac- 
 tically free from disease. 
 
 Administering Medicine. — The best form in which to give medicine 
 to rabbits for internal use is as a powder. Gently grasp the rabbit 
 by the back of the neck with one hand and place the other hand on 
 the rabbit's hips. Then turn the rabbit on its back and place the 
 right arm over the hindquarters, holding the animal so it cannot kick. 
 Animals which have not been handled much may object to being 
 turned over on their back, but with a little patience the animal may 
 be quieted and turned. One hand should be used to hold the head 
 and the other be free to administer the medicine. A rabbit fur or 
 piece of burlap or carpet spread on the table or bench will keep the 
 fur from being soiled or injured. With the rabbit's nose turned 
 upward, gently press the jaws apart with thumb and finger and 
 place the powdered medicine well back of the rabbit's tongue. 
 
 Liquid medicines for the nostrils are most easily applied with a 
 small oil can. Gently squirt the medicine well up the opened nostrils 
 and place a little on the forefeet. Then allow the rabbit to stand on 
 its feet to catch its breath and prevent the liquid from getting into 
 the lungs. An eye dropper can also be used for applying liquids to 
 the nostrils and eyes or for placing them well down the throat. 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISINO 37 
 
 INFECTIOUS DISEASES 
 
 Snuffles. — (Non-malignant snuffles, colds). This is one of the most 
 common and dreaded of diseases. The term "snuffles" is ordinarily 
 applied to any diseased condition of rabbits that is characterized by 
 a discharge from the nostrils, sneezing, and by general symptoms that 
 indicate a bad cold. It. is important to distinguish between different 
 diseases that may be confused with ordinary snuffles. Non-malignant 
 snuffles is caused by an organism very similar to the one causing 
 hemorrhagic septicemia, though not considered the same by some 
 investigators. In some cases pneumonia may follow snuffles and com- 
 plicate the trouble. When pneumonia accompanies snuffles the disease 
 may be fatal. The malignant form of snuffles is nothing more than 
 coccidiosis according to some specialists. 
 
 Non-malignant snuffles may be treated as a cold, and while we 
 are not sure that treatments for colds are of much value, still the 
 animal may be relieved of some of its suffering until the disease runs 
 its course. Oil of eucalyptus is one of the most common remedies. 
 Mix three drops with one fluid ounce of liquid petroleum or olive oil 
 (sweet oil) and apply to the nostrils with an oil can. This should be 
 repeated once each day. 
 
 Recently a mixed infection bacterin (Lepine) for non-malignant 
 snuffles has been produced under government license and with curative 
 and preventive values claimed for it. It can be obtained from labora- 
 tories dealing in biologic supplies. Since the minimum sold is rather 
 large it w^ill hardly pay to treat just one or two rabbits. The mixed 
 bacterin will be best suited for the larger rabbitries or for several 
 breeders w4io go in together to have their animals treated. 
 
 As soon as any of the symptoms of snuffles appear, remove the 
 animal to clean, dry quarters where the rabbit can get plenty of fresh 
 air and remain warm and free from drafts. In case of pneumonia 
 the rabbit may be wrapped in a blanket or cloth to keep it warm. 
 Give the animal plenty of green feed, clean Avater, and w^holesome 
 hay and grain. The floor may be covered with sawdust, but any 
 bedding used should be changed as often as necessary to keep the 
 hutch clean. Ammonia fumes from manure left in the hutch are 
 sufficient to cause considerable irritation of the nasal passages. Musty, 
 dusty, or smutty feeds are to be avoided. If a malignant catarrh 
 accompanied by a thick discharge from the nose developes, coccidiosis 
 may be suspected. See coccidiosis for further consideration of the 
 other symptoms and for treatment. 
 
38 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 Coccidiosis (Spotted liver, malignant snuffles, malignant catarrh). 
 — This disease is caused by a microscopic animal parasite, Eimeria 
 cuniculi. Three forms of the disease are commonly found: (1) the 
 intestinal form, (2) the liver (hepatic) form, and (3) the nasal form. 
 Slobbers and abscesses may also appear as outward symptoms of this 
 disease though such symptoms when not associated with the other 
 usual indications are not to be construed as symptoms of coccidiosis. 
 
 When coccidiosis attacks rabbits it is fatal in a large percentage 
 of cases. The disease spreads rapidly and attacks young rabbits from 
 a month to three months old most severely. Older rabbits may also 
 be attacked but the disease is not so fatal to them. Many of them 
 may survive but serve as carriers of the parasites to healthy animals. 
 The parasites causing coccidiosis of rabbits are spread by means of 
 the droppings. Any feed or water that comes in contact with infective 
 droppings permits healthy rabbits to become infected. The organisms 
 have an incubation period in the droppings of about a week, during 
 which time they are not infective, and it is this characteristic that is 
 so important in control work. 
 
 Coccidiosis in the acute stage is manifested by poor appetite, 
 lack of energy, dullness of the fur, loss of weight, abdominal dropsy, 
 and convulsions followed by death. Other symptoms may appear on 
 post mortem. 
 
 Post-mortem examination w^ould show the intestinal form to have 
 caused lesions and the inner coat of the intestines will be covered with 
 small bloodshot areas about the size of a pin point or pin head. The 
 blood and flesh often have a pale, watery appearance. 
 
 The parasites may work their way up into the liver in a large 
 percentage of cases and cause small, raised white areas which give the 
 name ''spotted liver." This is the form of coccidiosis that is most 
 often considered, yet the other forms are just as important. White 
 spots on the liver of an animal that is being dressed for market 
 indicate that coccidiosis has been contracted at some time. 
 
 The nasal form of coccidiosis might be termed malignant catarrh. 
 The discharge from the nose in an ordinary cold is normally thin 
 and watery, whereas the discharge in the case of coccidiosis becomes 
 heavy and rather orange in color. The nostrils, breast, and front 
 feet become soiled with the thick discharge. Blood-shot points may 
 also appear in the nasal passages. The rabbit usually shows the other 
 symptoms of the disease such as weakness, loss of weight, loss of 
 appetite, and dull coat. Sneezing alone is not sufficient to indicate 
 the disease. 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 39 
 
 Slobbers is usually a digestive disorder, and yet in some cases the 
 parasites causing coccidiosis may set up such a disturbance in the 
 digestive tract that symptoms of slobbers may appear. If the rabbit 
 has the other symptoms of coccidiosis, treat the ailment in the manner 
 already outlined. Ordinary slobbers will be discussed a little later. 
 (See treatment of slobbers as a digestive disorder.) 
 
 Coccidiosis is incurable and so-called cures and "specifics" are not 
 only a waste of money but give a dangerous sense of security when as 
 a matter of fact the affected animals can never be more than a source 
 of trouble, even if they apparently recover. The same thing can be 
 said about cures for the malignant form of snuffles ; so do not attempt 
 to use a "cure" or "specific" for this incurable disease. If the 
 diseased animals are killed and burned or buried in quick lime and 
 the hutches thoroughly disinfected, the owner can then start with 
 animals known to be healthy. 
 
 By cleaning the hutches out very thoroughly at least twice each 
 week to break the breeding cycle of the parasites and also by disin- 
 fecting with scalding soda water or other good disinfectant twice a 
 month, there will be little chance for coccidiosis to gain a foothold. 
 All rabbit shipping crates or hand carriers should be treated like the 
 hutches and all new stock should be kept separate until freedom from 
 any serious disease has been proven. Infected manure should be 
 burned and in no case should greens or other feed that has been 
 fertilized with manure from infected rabbits be used. All feed should 
 be fed in racks or dishes and never on the hutch floor where it is 
 likely to come in contact with infective manure. Remember that 
 rabbits which have access to plenty of fresh air and sunshine and 
 a well balanced diet are relatively free from serious ailments. The 
 rabbit breeder who manages his animals in the way outlined above 
 has little to fear, but let carelessness creep in and failure will soon 
 result. 
 
 Ve7it Diseases. — These diseases are usually spread by breeding 
 infected animals. The first symptoms are a severe inflammation of 
 the sexual organs followed a little later by sores. Animals so infected 
 are unfit for breeders and will be disqualified when entered in a show. 
 
 It is best to stop breeding from any infected animals. It is 
 doubtful whether vent diseases can be cured. In the past treatment 
 has consisted of administering 25 per cent Argyrol with a medicine 
 dropper three or four times a day to all affected parts. Unless the 
 rabbit is particularly valuable, it may be better to dispatch it to 
 avoid any possible spread of the disease. 
 
40 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 Eye Trouhle (Blindness of the young). — This trouble is probably 
 due to infection and may be treated accordingly. The adults have 
 running eyes and the young may have swollen eyes. Sometimes red 
 pimples occur around the eyelids and young animals may become 
 totally blind. 
 
 Since eye trouble usuallj^ occurs where the hutches are filthy and 
 injurious gases present, the first thing to do is to clean up the quarters 
 and disinfect them thoroughly. Affected animals should have their 
 eyes washed with boric acid, one tablespoonful of powdered boric acid 
 to one pint of water. The boric acid dissolves best in hot water, but 
 the solution should be allowed to cool before being used. Iodoform 
 ointment may be used for any running sores that develop. 
 
 Soi^e Hocks. — This trouble is due to the rabbit stamping its feet 
 in filthy, wet hutches, thus causing the legs to become irritated, in- 
 fected, and sore. Very heavy rabbits are often subject to hock 
 injuries. 
 
 Clean up the hutches, then thoroughly disinfect the floor and allow 
 it to become dry. Put in clean straw or hay bedding. The sore hocks 
 can be coated with carbolized vaseline and bandaged. Iodoform has 
 also been recommended. Remove bandages as often as necessary to 
 keep the sores clean and to apply more vaseline. 
 
 INSECTS AND OTHER PARASITES 
 
 Eabhit Ear Mange or Canker (Scabies). — Ear canker is caused by 
 an infestation of the ears with the rabbit ear mange mite. The exuded 
 matter and crusts resulting from the irritation of the mite should be 
 removed with a blunt piece of wood or with a hairpin, and a good 
 antiseptic salve or ointment applied. Warm olive oil is recommended 
 after the place has first been cleaned. One part powdered camphor 
 to two parts zinc oxide is also recommended as a dusting powder. 
 Carbolated olive oil has given good results. Ear canker is easily cured 
 with a few treatments. It will disqualify a rabbit for show purposes. 
 
 Skin Trouhles and Insect Pests. — Occasionally rabbits are attacked 
 by fleas and other skin parasites. A good insect powder, such as 
 pyrethrum, dusted over the skin and rubbed in well, will rid the 
 animals of fleas. Where skin troubles are of a parasitic nature the 
 animal may be treated as for the mange mite. As a part of the control 
 of skin parasites, it is a good practice to thoroughly clean and dis- 
 infect the hutches to destroy any possible breeding places of the 
 parasites. If the hutches are kept clean, rabbits will rarely be infested 
 with insect pests. 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 41 
 
 NON-INFECTIOUS DISEASES 
 
 Pot Belly. — This trouble is usually found only among the young 
 and may be caused by the rabbit eating an excessive amount of damj^ 
 or wet green feed or musty haj^ and grain. Too much crude fiber in 
 the ration may be a factor. The young which are weaned too soon 
 may be unable to properly digest the more bulky food and excessive 
 amounts of green feed. In all of these cases the abdomen becomes 
 swollen and pendant. 
 
 Remove the cause of the trouble by avoiding wet or musty feed 
 and by reducing the amount of feed, if necessary. Give the rabbits 
 plenty of exercise by having the hutches large enough for the animals 
 to move about easily. Affected rabbits should be given a dose of 
 castor oil, from one to two teaspoonfuls according to size and age. 
 This medicine, being a liquid, is hard to administer. Experienced 
 persons use a rubber tube, while amateurs may use a medicine dropper 
 and give the oil so the rabbit can swallow the dose in small amounts. 
 In mild cases place a few drops of oil in the feed. 
 
 Slohhers. — (See snuffles and coccidiosis.) This trouble may be a 
 symptom of either snuffles or coccidiosis. Many producers consider 
 slobbers to be a form of indigestion, especially resulting from using 
 excessive amounts of green feed or green feed to which the young 
 rabbits are not accustomed. If indigestion seems to be the cause, then 
 the slobbers may be cured by regulating the diet as already outlined 
 in connection with feeding. More bulk in the form of wheat bran 
 will help prevent impaction and indigestion. Any change in the diet 
 should be gradual. 
 
 Constipation. — This usually occurs when too much dry feed is 
 given. The remedy is to give more green feed and in extreme cases, 
 use castor oil as suggested for "pot belly." 
 
 Diarrhea. — This is another common trouble, which is not serious 
 if taken care of in time. It may be caused by using too much green 
 feed after the stock has been confined to hay and grain. Severe 
 digestive disorders may be followed by diarrhea. Sometimes young 
 nursing rabbits do not get enough milk and in their weakened con- 
 dition may be affected by digestive disorders and diarrhea. 
 
 When the bowels become too lose, remove the rabbit to a separate 
 hutch. Reduce the amount of green feed and give scalded milk, if 
 the rabbits can be induced to drink the milk. A mash of bran and 
 oats or bread in scalded milk is very good. Dry wheat bran has also 
 given good results. 
 
42 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS TROUBLES 
 
 Failure to Breed. — Occasionally a doe will fail to conceive. No 
 one treatment will be effective for all cases, but several suggestions 
 are offered. First see that the doe is not too fat. A fat doe is in a 
 poor physical condition to breed. Avoid overfeeding the doe on 
 starchy feed such as rolled barley. See that the doe is fed sufficient 
 greens and grain products containing the seed germs because these 
 are rich in vitamin E. This food factor is now believed to regulate 
 normal oestrus and also the fertility of both the doe and buck. A 
 well balanced diet is always an important asset in obtaining good 
 litters. 
 
 Some breeders place the doe in the buck's hutch and the buck in 
 the doe 's hutch for from twelve to twenty-four hours, after which the 
 buck is placed in with the doe. Success with this method has been 
 reported. Other breeders hold the doe during the breeding process, 
 and by lifting the doe's tail slightly, successful service has been 
 secured in some cases reported. If the doe complains and does not 
 seem to be in heat, such a practice is not to be recommended. Be very 
 careful about avoiding bites from the buck when the doe refuses 
 service. The greatest trouble with failure to breed has been experi- 
 enced late in the year, and especially with does that have had a very 
 long rest period. 
 
 In case the buck seems to be at fault try a new, vigorous buck. 
 Then if the doe fails to conceive, dispose of her. Three years is about 
 as long as a doe can be expected to breed well and raise good litters. 
 
 Infant Mortality and Abortion. — The young may appear to have 
 little life and die without any noticeable cause. The trouble can 
 usually be traced back to weak and unhealthy parents. The doe may 
 have been bred too often or allowed to raise too many young. The 
 buck may have been too young for breeding or allowed to serve too 
 many does or too frequently to get good strong offspring. A lack 
 of food rich in vitamin E will cause abortion. The does' milk supply 
 may fail, in which case the young become thin. Try to find and 
 remove the cause and the trouble will then disappear. 
 
 Paralysis and Leg Weakness. — Paralysis usually attacks the hind 
 quarters, causing the rabbit to move with great difficulty. The trouble 
 usually follows too frequent breeding or nursing too large litters. Leg 
 weakness or rickets in young rabbits is due to deficient calcium assimi- 
 lation. The violet rays from the sun and a balanced ration are the 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 43 
 
 preventives. With proper management of the rabbits such troubles 
 will seldom appear. 
 
 Bites and Scratches. — The wound should be cleaned with warm 
 water and pure soap and then treated with hydrogen peroxide two or 
 three times a day. It has been claimed that white hairs may be 
 prevented from appearing in scar tissue by the use of vaseline or 
 similar ointments on the healing wound. 
 
 In severe cases where the skin has been torn, the wound should 
 be cleansed and treated with hydrogen peroxide. Then take a needle 
 and small silk thread, dip in peroxide, and take as many stitches as 
 necessary to bring the edges of the wound together, tying each stitch 
 separately. The threads should be long enough so they can be found 
 when removing about one week later. Keep the wound disinfected 
 with hydrogen peroxide until healing starts. 
 
 Molting or Shedding. — This is not a disease, but special care is 
 needed during the first molt, which comes at about six to eight weeks, 
 to see that the rabbits have plenty of good feed. A little linseed oil 
 meal to help form a good coat of fur, may be added to the grain. 
 Many breeders prefer whole flaxseed in preparing the rabbits for 
 exhibition, and this may be added at the time of the molt. A rabbit 
 that is molting is not in physical condition for breeding. 
 
 Sudden Deaths. — Amateurs, especially, may have same trouble in 
 determining the cause of sudden deaths, so a few suggestions under 
 this general heading may be helpful. In a large majority of cases 
 the sudden death of several animals at the sam^e time indicates exces- 
 sive heat, coccidiosis, or the use of feed that is very coarse or possibly 
 poisonous. By carefully checking up on the existing conditions, the 
 cause of the deaths may be discovered and removed. 
 
 PREPARING RABBITS FOR MARKET 
 
 Killing Rabbits. — Hold the animal on a bench or a table and stun 
 it by a quick blow behind the ears. For this purpose use a small, 
 heavy stick or iron bar. Immediately after stunning, bleed the rabbit 
 by cutting the jugular vein in the throat with a sharp knife ; then tie 
 the carcass to a line or a hook until bleeding is completed. A special 
 gambrel has been sold for hanging up rabbits during the dressing 
 process, but a homemade gambrel will serve just as w^ell. 
 
 Dressing Meat Rabbits for Retail Trade. — If the pelts are to be 
 saved for the fur market, slit down the inside of the legs with a 
 small knife and also about the neck; then by peeling down the fur 
 over the legs and hindquarters, strip the fur from the body, leaving 
 
44 
 
 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE 
 
 [CiRC. 9 
 
 the flesh side out. The knife will be needed in a few places to sep- 
 arate the skin from the flesh, especially along the abdomen. Special 
 wire stretchers are sold or can be made for stretching cased skins 
 during the drying process. Wire stretchers can be easily made out 
 of 8 to 10-gauge galvanized wire (see fig. 14). A board can be used 
 in place of the wire, but drying is slower. Cased skins are very easily 
 removed and cared for and are preferred on the fur market. Skins 
 slit down the front are salable, but are not so desirable. The open 
 skin is much harder to stretch for drying. 
 
 After removing the pelt, slit the carcass down 
 the abdomen, starting near the tail. Cut around 
 the anal opening and cut through the juncture of 
 the pelvic bones ; then with a little backward bend 
 of the legs, pry apart the hindquarters to expose 
 the lower intestine. Follow on down the abdomen 
 with the knife and remove the entrails, but leave 
 the kidne3^s embedded in the fat along the back. 
 Remove the stomach and lungs. Wash the carcass, 
 dry, and cool it until the body heat has left. Some 
 dressing establishments throw the dressed rabbit 
 into cold water, and after the carcass has cooled 
 off, pack it in ice in the usual way. Never chill the 
 dressed rabbit until after the body heat has left. 
 
 For local trade the ribs may be broken to cause 
 the chest to lie flat and give the rabbit less of a life- 
 like appearance. When the chest is flattened, it 
 will fry much better. A few parsley leaves and a neat wrapping of 
 oil paper give an appetizing appearance to a dressed rabbit. 
 
 Hog Dressing Rabhits. — Some markets prefer rabbits which are 
 drawn, but which still have the fur on. A rabbit dressed in this 
 way is spoken of as being 'hog dressed.' Market quotations for 
 dressed rabbits normally refer to hog-dressed rabbits. Rabbits are 
 hog-dressed by simply opening the abdomen in the usual manner 
 without first removing the pelt. 
 
 Although some markets prefer a hog-dressed rabbit because the 
 skin prevents the meat from turning dark while being held, still such 
 a method should be discouraged by producers because of the effect 
 on customers. A completely dressed rabbit is more inviting than a 
 hog-dressed rabbit and is less likely to offend those for whom rabbits 
 have sentimental associations. The United States Biological Survey 
 supplies colored charts of dressed rabbits for encouraging sales. 
 
 Fig. 14.— Good 
 form of wire 
 stretcher for rab- 
 bit skins. 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 45 
 
 Care of Furs. — The rabbit producer can save furs about as easily 
 as he can throw them away. Raw rabbit pelts should be stretched 
 and dried as previously described, and then stored away from moths 
 or other pests until the skins are tanned and marketed. Paradichloro- 
 benzine or napthalene (moth balls) will protect the furs from moths. 
 
 Commercial tanneries and fur-dressing establishments prefer to 
 do all of the work connected with fur dressing. Furs can be tanned 
 at home as described in the publications listed in the bibliography 
 (see p. 56). Furriers state that pelts tanned with oak bark fail to 
 take the dye as well as furs tanned in other ways. If the furs are to 
 be clipped, it is important to select only those pelts which are free 
 from molt or patches of short hair because the ticking on the short fur 
 will not be removed by the clipper and the finished fur will appear 
 uneven in color. Rabbit breeders engaging in the production of high 
 quality fur should endeavor to become familiar with what constitutes 
 a prime fur and should learn the ages at which the rabbits are likely 
 to be molting. 
 
 A prime fur is one which is free from molt and hutch stain or 
 sun injury. The size of the pelt as well as the thickness of the fur 
 and the under down greatly affect the value of the fur on the market. 
 A pelt with thin fur from one of our best fur breeds may sell for 
 hatters' material at about ten cents, while a prime fur from one of 
 the meat breeds may sell for nearly as much as the better pelts from 
 fur breeds. The first molt will start when the young are about six 
 to eight weeks old. The baby pelt, when the rabbit is about one 
 month old or three and one-half months old, is usually of fine quality 
 though rather thin and only about 3 inches by 6 inches in size. The 
 pelt again becomes prime when the animal is from five to six months 
 old and from then on will become prime about every three months. A 
 mature Chinchilla pelt is about 8 inches by 14 inches in size. The 
 pelt which is not fully prime will show dark areas on the flesh side 
 when dried, indicating patches of immature fur. Try to avoid pelts 
 with this immature fur because of the much greater value of furs 
 taken at the right time. Poor pelts can never make satisfactory fur 
 garments. 
 
 Manufacturing Fur Garments. — It is not within the scope of this 
 publication to give the details of manufacturing fur garments from 
 rabbit pelts, but the producer will need to know something about the 
 use of furs. Illustrations shown in figures 15 and 16 will give an idea 
 of the accomplishments of experienced workers in fur. Some of the 
 garments now being made are so expertly finished that only a skilled 
 workman can tell that rabbit fur has been used. The fur sewing 
 
46 
 
 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE 
 
 [CiRC. 9 
 
 machine has been a wonderful asset in making acceptable garments; 
 patches made with it cannot be detected from outward appearance. 
 Many pleasing effects are secured by cutting the pelts on a bias and 
 then re-sewing on the fur sewing machine. 
 
 rig. 15 Fig. 16 
 
 Fig. 15. — Cape ' of ' ' Pacific ' ^ seal of California rabbit skins trimmed with 
 Chinchilla rabbit. 
 
 Fig. 16. — Coat from California rabbit skins, one of the serviceable garments 
 being manufactured. 
 
 It is a serious mistake for the person w^ho is improperly equipped 
 to attempt the manufacture of fur garments because the final product 
 will always show lack of skill and poor workmanship. The furrier 
 has had years of experience and is equipped with the latest devices 
 for dressing and manufacturing furs. In most cases it would be better 
 to limit the use of the furs to trimming garments unless lessons in fur 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 47 
 
 manufacture can be taken. In southern California lessons have been 
 given to women wishing to manufacture rabbit fur garments, and 
 doubtless special arrangements for such lessons could be made in 
 many districts if sufficient interest were shown. 
 
 MARKETING RABBITS AND PELTS 
 
 Marketing Live Rabbits. — Most of the live rabbits marketed in 
 this state are gathered by automobile trucks sent out weekly or bi- 
 monthly from large killing establishments. As many as 2,000 rabbits 
 are killed in a day in Los Angeles and most of these rabbits are 
 
 Fig. 17. — The pick-up rabbit buyer has been one of the most important 
 factors in the sale of meat rabbits raised considerable distance from market. 
 
 gathered by the pick-up buyer (see fig. 17). Up to the present time 
 the express rate on live rabbits is about double that on poultry; 
 consequently the shipper finds marketing by express rather expensive. 
 An effort is being made to have the express rate on rabbits lowered so 
 that it will be more like that on live poultry. 
 
 Marketing Dressed Rabbits. — Many rabbit raisers do their own 
 killing but sell on a basis of live weight. The home dressing of rabbits 
 will usually return the producer a little greater profit than marketing 
 alive. The producer is in a better position to see that the consumer 
 receives only the best rabbits when he does his own killing and dress- 
 ing. However it should be remembered that only a very small and 
 unstable industry can be built upon direct and independent mar- 
 keting. 
 
48 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 Effect of Imports. — Occasionally imported meat rabbits find their 
 way to our markets. Frozen Australian rabbits enter this country 
 and sell for from twenty-two to twenty-five cents apiece wholesale, 
 and thirty-five cents apiece or three for a dollar retail. The meat of 
 these imported rabbits is often dark red in color and far from appetiz- 
 ing. Some dealers have stopped handling the frozen imported rabbits 
 because of the low quality represented. The greatest danger of these 
 low quality imported rabbits is not due to competition on the open 
 market, but rather to the effect on the consumer's demand for any 
 kind of rabbit meat. Low quality rabbits or those which have been 
 improperly dressed tend to destroy the demand for rabbit meat at 
 any time. Therefore American producers should endeavor to keep low 
 quality animals off the market whether the animals are imported or 
 produced at home. 
 
 Our local rabbit raisers can hardly expect to compete with the 
 low-priced imported rabbit pelts largely used in the manufacture 
 of hatters' felt. However, the imports do not prevent the production 
 and sale of some high quality rabbit furs at prices ranging from 
 40 cents to $1.50 a 'raw' pelt. 
 
 Cooperative Marketing. — Many people are successfully raising 
 rabbits, but only a part of these producers are marketing their rabbits 
 to the best advantage. Unless the producer does market efficiently, 
 it would be better for all concerned if he never started in the rabbit 
 business. Many of the successful branches of agriculture are now 
 based on individual production and collective marketing and financing. 
 Cooperative marketing of rabbits and rabbit products is an urgent 
 need and already a start in this direction has been made in southern 
 California. Greater cooperation among rabbit producers is shown 
 in most parts of California by a considerable increase in the number 
 of rabbit breeders ' associations and it is to be hoped that trivial differ- 
 ences among producers can be smoothed out and forgotten so that 
 hearty cooperation in marketing may ultimately result. Both con- 
 sumers and producers should benefit from cooperative marketing 
 because a regular supply and a regular demand could be built up 
 which in turn would do away with serious fluctuations and losses to 
 the producers. 
 
 Any selling organization must be assured of a regular supply 
 before selling contracts can be made with buyers. No group is better 
 qualified to estimate the supply than organized rabbit breeders. As 
 long as there is a lack of cooperation in selling, prices will probably 
 fluctuate, and markets will be uncertain. High winter prices tend 
 to reduce consumption and low summer prices tend to reduce produc- 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 49 
 
 tion. Prices offered for meat rabbits have ranged between 11 and 22 
 cents a pound live weight during a year, whereas costs of production 
 remain about the same. In most cases rabbits have been marketed on 
 a locality rather than on a commodity basis. As a result, prices have 
 fallen low at times simply because there was no organization to extend 
 the market beyond the locality where the rabbits were produced. 
 
 The marketing of furs is not so much a question of selling a few 
 furs for special orders at a fancy price as it is a problem of collecting 
 and selling pelts in lots of a thousand at a time. New York dealers 
 have been our most reliable buyers of furs from the Pacific Coast, but 
 even the eastern buyers have at times refused to take our output. 
 Quite recently a rabbit breeders' exchange has been formed on the 
 New York market for the collecting of rabbit furs from all parts of 
 the country. The Exchange is backed by organized rabbit breeders 
 and is marketing directly to large fur dealers at a cost of 10 per cent 
 of gross sales. A few furriers are now buying small lots of furs on 
 the Pacific Coast, and a large firm has been organized in southern 
 California to handle various rabbit products, including furs. The 
 present outlook is for an increasing interest in rabbit furs by local 
 manufacturers. 
 
 Many rabbit raisers will want to have furs tanned and dyed and 
 perhaps clipped for use in the home or for sale locally. This work 
 can be done on this coast as well as anywhere. A large San Francisco 
 firm claims to do 90 per cent of the work of fur dressing on the Pacific 
 Coast, covering the entire line of fur dressing and dyeing. Rabbit 
 furs are made into beaverette, moline, sealine, and many other fur 
 products bearing trade names. 
 
 The rabbit industry needs more people who are free from violent 
 prejudices either for or against the industry as a whole or against 
 any of its branches. Market demands already developed are large 
 enough to take care of a fairly heavy production of meat and fur 
 if producers will only work together. It may be true that the sale 
 of meat depends on appetites and the sale of fur on styles, but markets 
 can be developed which will warrant a considerable increase in both 
 lines of production. Buyers of rabbit products are justified in expect- 
 ing the good will of producers so long as good markets are developed 
 and fair treatment is accorded. Buyers and producers are dependent 
 upon each other for successful sales and for the development of the 
 rabbit industry in general. A closer cooperation among producers 
 will be very useful in developing good will among all concerned. One 
 national, one state, and one local association will be all that can 
 function well. Duplication of effort, either in setting standards or in 
 selling, is injurious to the best interests of commercial rabbit raising. 
 
50 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 
 
 COSTS AND INCOME 
 
 It is a dangerous thing to mention costs and profits without speci- 
 fying conditions. Too often beginners have been led to believe that 
 certain profits could be expected when actual experience did not bear 
 out the statements made. The factors already mentioned exert such 
 a tremendous influence on profit and loss that any figures which might 
 be given would necessarily apply only to specific cases and so perhaps 
 only represent possibilities or typical cases of good judgment. 
 
 One person can handle up to 200 breeding does. One buck is 
 needed for about every ten does. The investment for a breeding 
 rabbit will range from a few dollars up to as high as twenty-five 
 dollars, depending upon the breed and the quality of the animal. 
 A range of from five to ten dollars for an ordinary breeding animal 
 and from ten to twenty-five dollars for animals in new breeds is 
 common. 
 
 Feed has cost from $3.50 to $3.75 a doe annually and occasionally 
 more in some well known commercial rabbitries in different parts of 
 the state. The feed for a young rabbit has cost about 45 cents for 
 the first two months when a live weight of three pounds may be 
 attained. A feed cost of % of a cent a day for the first two or three 
 months is a fair average when most of the feed is bought. This 
 applies to both meat and fur rabbits. A few producers estimate the 
 cost as low as 30 cents for the first two months. Beyond this period 
 the monthly feed bill will range between 20 and 28 cents a rabbit, 
 depending on the location. If most of the feed is raised at home, the 
 cost may be lowered considerably. 
 
 Labor costs have been about equal to the feed costs for the first 
 three-months period, allowing about seventeen minutes to a rabbit 
 monthly. The labor allowance should be more where much hired 
 help is used. 
 
 Hutch rent should be based on the cost of the hutch. For example, 
 a six-compartment $20 hutch with interest at 6 per cent would carry 
 an interest charge of 10 cents a month. One producer placed the 
 hutch rent for each rabbit at about 15 cents for a thirteen-week 
 period. 
 
 Income and Profit. — Some rabbit raisers have made good wages 
 and a fair profit on the investment while others have only about met 
 the costs. Still others have lost money. Any average that we might 
 give would include good and bad and therefore not represent the 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 51 
 
 better rabbitries. It is important to consider rabbit raisers who have 
 been in business for several years as representing possibilities for the 
 beginner who is willing to profit by the experience of others. 
 
 It has already been stated that after figuring cost of feed some 
 producers have received an income of a little more than $5 a doe a 
 year, allowing four litters of five rabbits each to a doe and a total 
 of 60 pounds of meat which sold at 30 cents a pound completely 
 dressed. An allowance of $1 a doe a month has been made in some 
 instances, but this is seldom obtained, especially by the beginner or 
 the person who has to pay high prices for feed. However the income 
 to a doe above cost of feed should be about 1% times her annual feed 
 cost under normal conditions where meat is the principal source of 
 income. 
 
 The figures supplied by a breeder dealing largely in fur rabbits 
 show that for the year 1925 about 69 per cent of the income came 
 from breeders, 21 per cent from meat, and only 8 per cent from the 
 sale of skins. Such figures clearly show that some producers of fur 
 rabbits are making only a relatively small part of their income from 
 the sale of furs. In other words some producers of fur rabbits 
 produce breeders rather than pelts. 
 
 Value of Eahhit Fur. — Imported rabbit pelts have averaged from 
 17 to 25 cents each in bale lots (100 lbs.). The Rabbit Breeders' 
 Exchange recently established by the American Rabbit and Cavy 
 Breeders' Association sold in its first pool about 100,000 pelts. The 
 first pool averaged about 15 cents a pelt with the best mature prime 
 pelts selling at from 75 cents to $1.50 each. Prime pelts of mature 
 meat rabbits such as the New Zealand, American Blue, and Flemish, 
 brought from 25 cents to 40 cents each. The best white furs brought 
 75 cents each and were in greatest demand by the furriers. The 200 
 Chinchilla furs ranged in price from 75 cents to $1.50 each. In some 
 instances where the furs have been used locally for fur garments, 
 prime rabbit pelts have brought very fancy prices but these special 
 markets have always been limited and not dependable for any large 
 number of producers. Warnings have recently been sent out against 
 expecting too much from furs, not because the fur was of poor quality 
 or worthless but rather because of the uncertainty of the market. Fur 
 prices were comparatively low late in 1926 and there was little demand 
 except for Chinchilla and white pelts. 
 
 One of the encouraging events in 1926 wa» the establishing of the 
 fur exchange already mentioned. This exchange has received the 
 backing of the United States Biological Survey. The Division of 
 Fur Resources of the Biological Survey is at present working to 
 
52 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 improve conditions affecting the marketing of rabbit furs and it is 
 to be hoped that the new exchange will give a dependable market even 
 if the prices are relatively low. Recently a five-acre rabbit experiment 
 station has been established at Chaffey Junior College, Ontario, Cali- 
 fornia under the auspices of the United States Department of Agri- 
 culture. With the backing of the organized producers the rabbit 
 industry can look ahead to a brighter future in fur marketing as well 
 as in other branches of the industry. Doubtless dependable markets 
 on the Pacific Coast will be developed in time. 
 
 Value of Bahhit Meat. — From a food standpoint, rabbit meat is 
 most excellent as shown by many tests and by the use of rabbit meat 
 for invalids in hospitals. While these facts are interesting, the rabbit 
 raiser is still more interested in the actual sale of rabbit meat. Prices 
 for live rabbits have fluctuated between 14 and 20 cents a pound in 
 most California markets, although prices have run higher and lower 
 in individual cases. The distribution of the rabbits killed at any one 
 time has a great deal to do with the prices offered. Late in 1925 prices 
 dropped to 11 and 12 cents on one market, largely because of the 
 poor distribution of the animals slaughtered. Prices are normally 
 good late in the year unless too many rabbits are killed and then 
 poorly distributed. 
 
 Rabbit meat has retailed at from 30 to 40 cents a pound completely 
 dressed. Market quotations for dressed rabbits refer to the 'hog- 
 dressed' animal. A 'hog-dressed' rabbit has the fur and head left on, 
 consequently there is a loss in weight of only about 25 per cent, 
 whereas the completely dressed rabbit loses nearly 50 per cent of its 
 live weight. We should expect the dressed-weight quotation to be 
 in between the live-weight price and the price for the completely 
 dressed animal. 
 
 Variations in market prices point to the urgent need for organized 
 selling so that rabbit products will be properly distributed. With 
 proper distribution and the avoidance of gluts on the market, fair 
 prices to both the producer and consumer can be expected and there 
 will be less likelihood of the exorbitant prices that often follow a 
 disastrous period for the producer. Prices should range between 15 
 and 20 cents live weight if the average producer is to make a profit. 
 
 Value of Rahhit Manure. — It has been estimated that one hundred 
 two-months-old rabbits will produce about one ton of manure a month. 
 A ton of manure is \%lued at from $12 to $15, which indicates a 
 potential return of 15 cents a rabbit monthly from manure. The 
 manure must be kept in cement manure pits or applied directly to the 
 soil, to preserve the nitrogen. The manure should be used on trees 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 53 
 
 and plants capable of responding to nitrogenous manures applied in 
 concentrated form. Rabbit manure is about equal to sheep manure 
 in nitrogen content and is over three times as rich in nitrogen as 
 ordinary horse and cow manure. If the manure is infected by the 
 germs causing coccidiosis it becomes worthless for fertilizing green 
 feed that is to be used for rabbits. 
 
 Total Capital Investment for Living Income. — There are very few 
 rabbitries large enough to return a good living to the owner. If we 
 allow an income of about 25 cents for each young meat rabbit or a 
 total of about $5 to a breeding doe a year above cost of feed, it will 
 be seen that a large number of breeding does must be kept to return 
 a good living wage. There are too few reliable records being kept 
 for us to more than point out that the person going into the rabbit 
 business as a sole means of gaining a living should plan carefully for 
 a reliable income. There will be the usual production costs for feed, 
 supplies, new stock, taxes, insurance, depreciation, and hired labor. 
 The family labor should be allowed for as hired labor because it would 
 entail an expense in case there w^ere no family assistance. All income 
 beyond these overhead expenses could be used as the owner saw fit 
 and is usually called farm income. In addition there will be interest 
 on investment and owner's labor to be considered from a purely 
 business standpoint. 
 
 When figuring on the total investment necessary to give a living 
 income it is very unsafe to use the same rate of income as obtained 
 with a few breeding does. If the owner's labor is sufficient to take 
 care of about 200 breeding does and their normal offspring then extra 
 help will be required when more breeding does are added to the 
 rabbitry. Naturally the farm income from the added does may be 
 less because of the cost of hired labor. It may take from 40 to 50 
 minutes of labor to raise a three-months-old rabbit and over 100 
 minutes to raise a rabbit to six months of age. If the owner should 
 have to pay $12.50 for labor in raising the yearly offspring of each- 
 breeding doe until the rabbits are about three months old, he is forced 
 to deduct this amount from the gross income, whereas he can spend 
 the money which he allows for his own labor. It might easily happen 
 that the cost of feed combined with that of hired labor would amount 
 to more than the sale price of the rabbits at normal meat prices. 
 Breeding stock would likely increase the income considerably but 
 the desirability of cautious investment is apparent. An income 
 of $1500 to $2000 above cost of feed from 200 breeding does may 
 require an investment of $5000, according to some estimates. A 
 possible loss may be prevented by starting on a small scale. Then the 
 
54 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 investment may be increased as the income seems to justify. As long 
 as present market conditions remain it hardly seems advisable to 
 invest heavily and then be forced to hire expensive labor to take 
 care of a large rabbitry which caters mostly to the meat trade or 
 sells low priced furs. In special cases where fancy breeding rabbits 
 are being sold at fancy prices the income may justify a heavier invest- 
 ment than that just mentioned but each of these special cases should 
 be considered separately. The owner's time should be spent on the 
 maximum number of animals that can be properly kept and marketed 
 to advantage. Many people with children can use the small rabbitry 
 to augment the family income. The rabbits will be raised with labor 
 which might otherwise be wasted. In any case it is best to stay with 
 the principal source of income until the income from rabbits seems 
 to justify a transition to a larger rabbitry. 
 
 GOOD PRACTICES FOR THE RABBIT RAISER 
 
 1. Buy stock from a reliable breeder. If in doubt inquire of the 
 
 breeders' associations. 
 
 2. Start with only one or two breeds. As much depends on the 
 
 strains as the breed and more yet on the breeder and the use 
 made of the rabbits. 
 
 3. Keep the hutches dry, sanitary, free from drafts, and provide 
 
 plenty of sunlight. 
 
 4. Isolate all sick or diseased animals and destroy animals which 
 
 cannot be cured. 
 
 5. Use only mature rabbits as breeders and plan to raise three to five 
 
 litters to a doe each year. * 
 
 6. Use well-built, economical hutches which will prove inviting to 
 
 prospective buyers. 
 
 7. Rigidly cull out all inferior stock and plan gradually to improve 
 
 the quality of the animals by using only the best animals as 
 breeders. 
 
 8. Feed regularly and use a well balanced ration. 
 
 9. Plan to buy feed in quantity at the season of the year when feed 
 
 prices are lowest. 
 
 10. Endeavor to have an economical unit so that the overhead expense 
 will be justified by the returns. 
 
1927] RABBIT RAISING 55 
 
 11. Have a very definite market for rabbits and rabbit products before 
 
 starting in the business and then cater to this market and seek 
 to extend it. 
 
 12. Keep accurate records of costs and expenses to see where improve- 
 
 ments can be made. 
 
 13. Cooperate with other rabbit raisers in the marketing of rabbits 
 
 and rabbit products. Try to have a regular supply. 
 
 14. Advertise by exhibiting breeding stock in the local rabbit shows 
 
 and by placing display cards in suitable agricultural papers. 
 
 SOME PRACTICES TO AVOID 
 
 1. Do not pay more for land, stock, or equipment than its agricul- 
 
 tural value would justify because a satisfactory income is then 
 impossible unless someone else assumes the liability. 
 
 2. Avoid buy-back schemes or contracts that are non-enforceable. 
 
 3. Do not figure on higher prices for meat or fur than have been 
 
 secured by the average competent producer. 
 
 4. Do not buy inferior or diseased stock at any price. 
 
 5. Do not keep does which have outlived their usefulness. 
 
 6. Never misrepresent stock that is sold and do not refuse to give a 
 
 guarantee for any animal that is to be used as a breeder. 
 
 7. Do not expect to make large profits when feed is bought in small 
 
 quantities and animals are marketed in small or irregular lots. 
 
 8. Do not throw green feed on the floor and do not change feeders or 
 
 dishes from one hutch to another without first disinfecting the 
 equipment. 
 
 9. Do not make sudden changes in the ration or feeding methods. 
 
 10. Do not use musty hay or smutty grain. 
 
 11. Do not contract for more rabbits or furs than you can supply. 
 
 12. Do not let your own mistakes cause you to become jealous of the 
 
 success of others. 
 
 13. Do not expect to produce only prime furs or only animals of 
 
 breeding quality, but try to be above the average in the quality 
 of the rabbits produced. 
 
 14. Do not waste time on attempts to fix unimportant characters in a 
 
 utility rabbit. Do not expect to develop a new breed in a short 
 time because new breeds are only developed after many years 
 of the most careful selection and breeding. 
 
56 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE [CiRC. 9 
 
 REFERENCES 
 
 PEEIODICALS 
 
 American Eahhit Magazine, Pomona, Calif. 
 
 National Fancier, York, Pa. 
 
 Pacific Coast Babbit Journal, Los Angeles, Calif. 
 
 Pet StocJc Journal, Gallon, Ohio. 
 
 Small Stock Magazine, Lamoni, Iowa. 
 
 SERIAL PUBLICATIONS 
 Dearbon, Ned. 
 
 1920. Rabbit raising. U. S. D. A., Farmers' Bulletin 1090: 1-30, 20 figs. 
 Rommel, George M. 
 
 1920. Essentials of animal breeding. U. S. D. A., Farmers' Bulletin 1167: 
 1-38, 32 figs. 
 Collins, M. D. 
 
 1922. Rabbit raising. Nevada Ext. Bui. 29: 1-34. Illus. 
 Dixon, Joseph. 
 
 1922. Directions for the tanning and dressing of furs. California Agr. Exp. 
 Sta. Cir. 237: 1-5. 3 figs. 
 Frey, R. W., I. D. Clarke, and F. P. Veitch. 
 
 1922. Home tanning of leather and small skins. U. S. D. A., Farmers' Bulle- 
 tin 1334: 1-29. 9 figs. 
 Green, D. Monroe. 
 
 1927. Rabbit skins for fur. U. S. D. A. Farmers' Bulletin 1519: 1-13. 7 figs. 
 
 BOOKS AND PAMPHLETS 
 Farrington, Edward I. 
 
 1919. Practical rabbit keeping. 166 pp., illus. Robert McBride and Co., 
 
 New York. 
 Sherlock, Chelsa C. 
 
 1920. Care and management of rabbits. 248 pp., illus. David McKay Co., 
 
 Philadelphia. 
 Washburn, F. L. 
 
 1920. The rabbit book. 200 pp., 83 figs. J. B. Lippincott Co., Philadelphia. 
 Meek, Marcellus W. 
 
 1924. Fur rabbits. 139 pp., illus. Published by author, Arcadia, Calif. 
 Gibson, Charles S. 
 
 1926. Breeding and care of rabbits. 216 pp., illus. Published by the author. 
 West Los Angeles, Calif. 
 American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, The, A. W. Weygandt, Sec. 
 1926. Guide book and standard — rabbits and cavies. 252 pp., illus. Ameri- 
 can Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Chicago, 111. 
 Meek, Marcellus W. 
 
 1926. Diseases and treatment of the rabbit. 37 pp., illus. National Associa- 
 tion of Rabbit Industries, Arcadia, Calif.