(Vn<G , 
 
 %*v&iqiq
 
 THE HISTORY 
 
 OF 
 
 CHUDLEIGH, 
 
 IN THE 
 
 COUNTY OF DEVON, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 SURROUNDING SCENERY, 
 
 SEATS, FAMILIES, ETC. 
 
 BY MARY JONES. 
 
 LONDON : THOMAS W. GRATTAN, PATERNOSTER ROW ; 
 KIRKMAN AND THACKRAY, DOCTORS COMMONS. 
 rXF.TER: A. HOLDEN. PLYMOUTH AND DEVONPORT: 
 ■F.R LIDSTONE. CHUDLEIGH I J. E. SEARLE. 
 
 MDCCCLII.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 In presenting the following pages to the Pub- 
 lic, the Writer has been actuated by no other 
 motive, than that of supplying the most correct 
 information in her power with respect to this 
 Ancient Town, which as yet, is without any 
 continuous records of past events. 
 
 At the outset it was her intention to have 
 produced a much smaller book, but by the various 
 documents with which she has been favoured, 
 which necessarily enlisted other materials, the 
 work has been much enlarged. 
 
 Fully aware of the difficulty in pleasing all 
 tastes, she has laboured with no small diligence 
 in gaining correct information for the historian ; 
 so that if she has failed to please, the work shall
 
 iv. PREFACE. 
 
 not be wanting in substantial matter, whereby it 
 may shadow forth that which may be more fully 
 expatiated on hereafter. She has to present her 
 warm acknowledgments, to a few friends who 
 have rendered her valuable assistance and infor- 
 mation, kindly undertaking also to revise the 
 proof sheets in their passage through the press. 
 If in any instance she has omitted to acknow- 
 ledge the authority used, she hopes it will be 
 attributed to inadvertence, rather than to any 
 design of arrogating to herself, the honour due to 
 others ; and sbe has now only to add, that 
 wherever sbe has failed in explaining, or fallen 
 short in any way of her object, it has not been 
 from the want of labour, but inability ; and with 
 this conviction, she hopes to meet with the 
 indulgence of both reader and critic. 
 
 Chudleigh, June, 1852.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Introduction. — Early History. — Bishops of Exeter, Lords 
 of the Manor Page 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Reformation. — Alienation of the Manor by Bishop Vey- 
 sey. — Descent of the Manor. — Parochial management . 15 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Civil war. — Incumbents. — Lord Treasurer Clifford. — 
 William Prince of Orange. — Woolcombe Family . . 33 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Bishops Palace. — Pot-water. — Woollen Trade. — Great 
 Fire 58 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Situation and boundaries. — Scenery. — Church. — List of 
 Vicars. — Dissenting Chapels. — Charities. — Free Grammar 
 School. — Literary Society ...... 88
 
 Tl. CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Ugbrooke and the Clifford Family. — Chapel and 
 Pictures 134 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Lawell. — Chudleigh Rock. — Dell and the Pixies Hole 158 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Hams and the Hunt Family. — Upcott and the Rennells.— 
 Waddon. — Harcombe. — Whiteway. — River Teign. — ■ 
 Haldon. — Geological Description 178 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 On the Great Snow Storm, January, 1814.
 
 HISTORY OF CHUDLEIGH. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 HE lovely vale which we are about 
 to describe, was probably much 
 frequented by the Britons in 
 their wanderings from place to 
 place. They invariably preferred the woods to 
 the plains. Here they could in summer, enjoy 
 the cooling shade of its beautiful trees, and in 
 winter the warm shelter of its rocky dells. The 
 chase in which they were so active, could not but 
 have been successful and well supplied them with 
 game ; and the thickly clothed woods, must have 
 also yielded an abundance of nuts, acorns, and 
 wild fruits. 
 
 Beneath the gloom of the majestic oak, that 
 overhung the unbroken and extensive summits of 
 the numerous Lime Rocks, could the Druids by 
 their mysterious rites, awe the rude aborigines 
 
 D
 
 2 HISTORY OF 
 
 into subjection. Drewsteignton was the nearest 
 seat of Druidism ; as it included a circuit of 
 twenty miles, our vale was of course within its 
 limits. It is true that we search in vain, for any 
 traces of military works, or british fortresses 
 here, as are found in otber parts of the kingdom, 
 or even neighbouring parishes. The fierce wars 
 in which the Britons often assailed one another, 
 or resisted the common foe, appear to have been 
 carried on altogether beyond its precincts, and 
 imagination pictures these restless tribes having 
 here a safe retreat, a kind of happy valley, to 
 which they could occasionally resort ; lying be- 
 tween the wilds of Dartmoor, and the dangers 
 incident to a dwelling on the southern coast, 
 which was often attacked by fierce and successful 
 invaders, especially the Belgag. 
 
 The Romans who subdued Britain under the 
 Caesars, passed over their own highway that lay 
 considerably east of the town. Although they 
 had a beacon on Haldon, and another at Hazle- 
 wood, ( that leads west from Hennock village ) 
 yet, they have left us no remains, that prove
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 3 
 
 their ever having had a Station, within this vale. 
 Compelled by wars near home, the Romans 
 gradually withdrew their forces from the island, 
 and finally quitted it about the middle of the fifth 
 century. It may be worthy a passing notice, as 
 shewing the high estimation, in which the Ro- 
 mans held the Britons, that they took with them 
 to the seat of empire, many young british 
 soldiers, whom they had studiously trained to 
 war. 
 
 Julius Caesar on his first landing, readily dis- 
 tinguished the native Britons, as a race altogether 
 superior, in stature and beauty to the Gauls or 
 Belgae, whom he then found in possession of our 
 coasts. 
 
 " Rude as the wilds, around his sylvan home, 
 
 In savage grandeur, see the Briton roam : 
 
 Bare were his limbs, and strung with toil and cold, 
 
 By untam'd nature cast in giant mould : 
 
 O'er his broad brawny shoulders loosely flung, 
 
 Shaggy and long, his yellow ringlets hung." 
 
 The Britons as soon as freed from the dominion 
 of the Romans, were assailed by the Picts and 
 Scots. Wanting aid in these defensive wars,
 
 4 HISTORY OF 
 
 they most unwittingly craved the assistance of 
 some barbarous tribes, that dwelt on the shores 
 of the German Ocean, whom we now include 
 under the general name of Saxons. These tribes 
 after aiding the Britons, like many other public 
 and private benefactors, took good care to serve 
 themselves, by retaining possession of the island. 
 They cruelly oppressed the noble Britons, and 
 massacred all whom they found openly professing 
 Christianity. Gregory, justly surnamed the Great, 
 mourned for the sufferings of the infant church, 
 then gradually (from the holy lives of its ministers 
 and professors,) advancing in public estimation, 
 sent Augustine and other pious missionaries to 
 Britain in the year five hundred and ninety- 
 seven, to convert if possible, these barbarous and 
 iniquitous usurpers to the faith of Christianity. 
 They were kindly received, and their interesting 
 mission proved most successful. 
 
 The Saxons as is well known, divided the 
 kingdom into seven independent states, and then 
 quarrelled among themselves, under Ceadwalla 
 King of "NVessex, one of the most powerful of
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 5 
 
 these Saxon princes, whose reign commenced 
 about six hundred and eighty-five. We may 
 conclude that our town began to be formed, and 
 from him according to Polwhele, some have sup- 
 posed it derived its Saxon name of Chidley ; 
 although the same historian further says, that 
 others thought that Chudleigh may have been 
 derived from "cid," contention, and "ley" a lock, 
 another from "cud," a hiding and " leigh," place; 
 thus signifying a hiding place. The Saxons had 
 in their turn, to bear the horrors of invasion. 
 The Danes who possessed the empire of the sea, 
 were continually ravaging the coasts of Britain, 
 and first landed at Teignmouth, about the year 
 eight hundred. The attention of the reader has 
 to be directed, to the Danish encampment, in 
 the heights of Ugbrooke Park. This was probably 
 occupied by the Danes, about the year eight hun- 
 dred and seventy-six, as at that time, they over- 
 ran the southern part of the county. During the 
 occupation of this camp, whether many or few, 
 the inhabitants of our vale were no doubt com- 
 pelled to hide themselves, or escape for their
 
 6 HISTORY OF 
 
 lives towards the moorlands. It was at this 
 period according to Lysons, that Exeter fell into 
 the hands of these marauders, and were there 
 besieged by Alfred, and compelled by that good 
 and great king to surrender, leaving him such 
 hostages as he demanded. The rude Saxon un- 
 der him, one of the best monarchs that ever 
 swayed a sceptre, began from this period, rapidly 
 to emerge from comparative barbarism, into civili- 
 zation. The christian religion was cordially 
 embraced, parishes and even mother churches, 
 were known as early as the year nine hundred 
 and seven, in the reign of Edgar ; Chudleigh with 
 the other towns of Devonshire, now began rapid- 
 ly to advance into importance, the bounds of the 
 parish were without doubt established, a christian 
 community instituted, and a place of worship 
 erected. Dr. Oliver supposes, the parish church 
 to have preceded the palace, it must not of course 
 be understood, that the early structure was in 
 extent, or importance, to be compared to the 
 church afterwards dedicated to St. Martin, in 
 the year one thousand two hundred and fifty-
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 7 
 
 nine, by Bishop Bronscombe. The site might 
 have been the same, but the building doubtless 
 differed essentially, and had then either to be 
 enlarged or re-erected, and again consecrated. 
 
 In the Doomsday-book ( which contained a 
 general survey of the island, begun one thousand 
 and eighty-one and completed one thousand and 
 eighty-six, by William the Conqueror) Chudleigh 
 is entered as Chiderleia, the land of the Earl of 
 Moreton, so say Polwhele and Lysons in their 
 histories of Devon. Order was again quickly 
 restored after the Norman conquest, under new 
 leases, the land in many instances remained in 
 the possession of its original occupiers. In the 
 eleventh and twelfth centuries, the Roman Catho- 
 lic church rapidly extended its ecclesiastical 
 domination, throughout the length and breadth of 
 the land. Bishop Leofric in one thousand and 
 fifty, removed the See from Crediton to Exeter, 
 and with the latter, Chudleigh soon became in- 
 timately associated. One of the early Bishops 
 about the year one thousand and eighty, attracted 
 by the salubrity of the air, and the beauty of the
 
 8 HISTORY OF 
 
 vale, selected it and Paignton, as sites for his 
 rural palaces. Others were afterwards erected 
 at Bishopsteignton, Tawton, &c. The vale of 
 Chudleigh was without baronial castle, or other 
 secular domain of importance. The Bishops of 
 Exeter may therefore be considered to have been, 
 from the conquest to the reformation, the undis- 
 puted lords, temporal, as well as spiritual, of 
 this district, having every thing that concerned 
 its welfare under their entire control. The Chud- 
 leigh palace was without doubt, a favorite residence 
 of the early bishops. In a chapel attached to it 
 and dedicated to St. Michael, there were frequent 
 ordinations, many documents now in the archives 
 of the Exeter Cathedral, were signed when these 
 prelates sojourned in this rural retreat. Dr. 
 Oliver in his ecclesiastical history of Devon, 
 mentions the appropriation of the park, manor, 
 and valuable lands, to the See of Exeter, as 
 6hewn by a deed between the years one thousand 
 one hundred and sixty-one, and one thousand one 
 hundred and eighty-four, wherein Bishop Bar- 
 tholomew grants the profit of his woods in
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 9 
 
 Chudleigk, to the Leper-bouse of St. Magdalen 
 in Exeter. He tells us also, that in one thousand 
 two hundred and eighty-two, the manor of Chud- 
 leigh was annexed to the precentorship of Exeter 
 Cathedral, by Bishop Quivil. 
 
 In the register of Bishop Stapledon in the year 
 one thousand three hundred and eight, we find 
 the rental of the manor to be seventeen pounds 
 four shillings and fivepence farthing : about this 
 time the woollen trade ( noticed elsewhere) was 
 carried on extensively, and the fulling mill paid 
 twenty shillings per annum to the See of Exeter. 
 For the collection of rents, and other business 
 connected with the manor, the precentor was by 
 the liberality of the bishops, provided with a 
 house and certain lands at Ugbrooke. And in 
 the will of Hugh de Hyckeling then precentor, 
 dated the eighth of August, one thousand four 
 hundred and fifteen and proved one thousand 
 four hundred and sixteen ; there is a bequest of 
 money and of his live stock at Ugbrooke. 
 
 It was optional for the Bishop of Exeter, to 
 receive from the manor of Chudleigh at Christmas,
 
 10 HISTORY OF 
 
 either twenty-four woodcocks or twelve-penee. 
 Bishop Stapledon with a view of increasing the 
 prosperity of the town of Chudleigh, ( then 
 rapidly advancing, ) procured for it in one thou- 
 sand three hundred and nine from his sovereign 
 Edward the Second, a charter for the markets 
 and fairs. Among the lands which this bishop 
 purchased, for the maintenance of his obit, ( or 
 masses for his soul ) as stated in his ordinance, 
 dated second of March, one thousand three 
 hundred and twenty-one, these were enumerated 
 some as being situated at Waddene, in this 
 parish. Edward Pyry was keeper of the park 
 and bailiff' to Bishop Lacy in one thousand four 
 hundred and forty-seven, he was appointed with a 
 salary of twelve-pence per week.* — thus far Dr. 
 Oliver. 
 
 The venerable prelate as the Dr. styles Bishop 
 Lacy, after governing the church thirty-five years, 
 died at the Chudleigh palace, in the year one 
 thousand four hundred and fifty-five, and was 
 
 * The best quality of wheat was sold in Exeter Market at 
 sixpence per bushel, about this period.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 11 
 
 interred in the Exeter Cathedral. His arms 
 were set up in the east wall, of the north aisle of 
 Chudleigh church. This bishop was highly es- 
 teemed for his sanctity, — " there was a great 
 " resort of pilgrims to his tomb, at which many 
 " miracles were pretended to have been per- 
 " formed." It may be worth notice that this 
 bishop entertained Henry the Sixth, in the year 
 one thousand four hundred and fifty-one, for eight 
 days, at his palace in Exeter, the charges being 
 borne equally, by the church and city. From 
 Bishop Lacy, to the instalment of Veysey, there 
 is comprised a period of sixty-eight years. A 
 list of the successive Roman Catholic bishops, is 
 the only link presenting itself, by which the chain 
 of events can be continued. These bishops ( it 
 will be seen, ) were sadly departing from their 
 original simplicity and sanctity. They were fre- 
 quently translated from one See to another, were 
 close attendants on royalty, as well as deeply 
 involved in politics, and secular affairs. 
 
 Bishop Lacy was succeeded by George Neville 
 in one thousand four hundred and fifty-five, who
 
 12 HISTORY OF 
 
 was installed at the age of nineteen, and made 
 lord chancellor of England at twenty-five, in the 
 reign of Henry the Sixth. 
 
 John Booth succeeded Neville and was conse- 
 crated one thousand four hundred and sixty-six ; 
 but weary of the turmoil, in which the bishops 
 were ever involved at this disturbed period of our 
 history, he returned to his own mansion in 
 Hampshire, where he died. J 
 
 Peter Courtenay was consecrated bishop in 
 one thousand four hundred and seventy-nine ; he 
 was son of Sir Philip Courtenay, of Powderham, 
 was in great favour with Henry the Seventh, and 
 was translated to Winchester. 
 
 Richard Fox was next installed bishop of 
 Exeter, in one thousand four hundred and eighty- 
 six, he was the faithful counsellor of Henry the 
 Seventh. This bishop was one of the most shrewd, 
 and wise men of his day, and had the honour of 
 being godfather to the king's second son, after- 
 
 X Bishop Booth, says Izacke, built the stately chair in the 
 choir of his church, being finished, he could not quietly sit 
 down therein ; so troublesome were the times, by reason of 
 the civil wars, between the houses of York and Lancaster.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 13 
 
 wards Henry the Eighth. Oliver King was made 
 bishop in one thousand four hundred and ninety- 
 two. Richard Redmayn was translated from 
 Wales to Exeter, in one thousand four hundred 
 and ninety-five, and from thence to Ely. John 
 Arundell descended from a Cornish family, was 
 installed in the See of Exeter, in one thousand 
 five hundred and four. Hugh Oldham * was 
 preferred to Exeter in one thousand five hundred 
 and seven, he was involved for years, in a dispute 
 with the abbot of Tavistock, while this lawsuit 
 was pending, he died, and being then under 
 sentence of excommunication at Rome, he could 
 not be interred, until absolution was procured. 
 It does not appear from any existing records, that 
 these Bishops, who had most of them become the 
 restless votaries of ambition, shewed any parti- 
 ality for the palace at Chudleigh, or interest in the 
 welfare of the town ; and John Veysey, who was 
 the successor of Hugh Oldham, had so little re- 
 gard for that which belonged to the See of Exeter, 
 
 * Bishop Oldham founded the Free Grammar School of 
 Manchester in one thousand five hundred and nineteen, 
 which seems to have been the year of his death. 
 G
 
 14 HISTORY OF 
 
 that he not only abandoned, but absolutely alien- 
 ated the manor and demesne. This prelate was 
 promoted to the bishoprick of Exeter, in the year 
 one thousand five hundred and twenty-three ; he 
 was in great favor with Henry the Eighth, was 
 made lord president of Wales, and was godfather 
 to the king's eldest daughter, The Lady Mary, 
 and to his government, was this princess after- 
 wards committed. 
 
 Troublous times now approached the English 
 Roman Catholic Church, its greatest foes were 
 within its own pale ; important results followed 
 the downfall of this long established hierarchy, 
 and the termination of its ecclesiastical domination 
 throughout England. In these events, our little 
 town as may be implied from its past history, was 
 deeply interested ; an entire new order of cir- 
 cumstances followed, which will form the subject 
 of the following chapter.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 15 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 HE glorious cause of the reforma- 
 tion was but disgraced, as coupled 
 
 with a name so odious, as that of 
 Henry the Eighth, * he is only 
 here noticed as the friend and patron of Veysey, 
 and like him, engaged in the work of spoliation. 
 
 While Henry by the strong arm of arbitrary 
 power, stripped most of the religious houses, 
 belonging to the Roman Catholics throughout 
 England, of the treasures they had been accumu- 
 lating and guarding for centuries, Veysey was 
 quietly doing the same, with the rural palaces in 
 Devon, and selling or leasing, all the valuable 
 
 * Alison in the Life of John Duke of Marlborough, men- 
 tions, that Henry the Eighth brought to the scaffold during 
 his reign, seventy-two thousand persons.
 
 1G HISTORY OF 
 
 ecclesiastical property committed to his charge. 
 He might it is true, ( from the signs of the times ) 
 have felt convinced, that what he thus squandered, 
 would he likely soon to pass into other hands, 
 but this could furnish no reasonable excuse for 
 his careless expenditure, neither had he any 
 right to gratify his ambition, in the enlargement 
 of the place of his nativity, (Sutton Coldfield, 
 Warwickshire, ) at the cost of the church, over 
 which he was called to preside as one " that had 
 to give an account of his stewardship " ; he is 
 described by an old writer, " as having been thro' 
 the whole course of his life, courtlike and bounti- 
 ful, which in the end, tended not so much to his 
 credit, as the spoil of the church, for of twenty- 
 two manors, or lordships, which his predecessors 
 had enjoyed ( and left to him of a great yearly 
 revenue ) he left but three to his successors, and 
 those also leased out ; and where he found four- 
 teen mansion houses excellently well furnished, 
 he left but one, and that very bare and naked." 
 The proceedings of Bishop Veysey in the aliena- 
 tion of the church lands in this parish, principally
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 17 
 
 concern our history, and they are thus recorded. 
 
 In the first year of the reign of Edward the 
 Sixth and on the sixth of February, he granted a 
 lease for ninety-nine years, of the manor, town 
 of Chudleigh, park, palace, and lime-kiln, com- 
 monly called Chudleigh calce, to the Duke of 
 Somerset; and in the third year of the same 
 reign, he was licensed to alienate the manor of 
 Chudleigh, in favour of Thomas Bridges, esquire, 
 ofTangleyin Oxfordshire. At this period, and 
 long after, there appears to have been continued 
 changes, in connection with the holding of mano- 
 rial rights and valuable lands, occasioned by tbe 
 alienation of church property ; at least such was 
 the case in Devon ; many speculations were 
 afloat in buying, selling, and leasing the same. 
 
 The Duke of Somerset does not appear to be 
 afterwards mentioned, in reference to the property 
 that was thus leased to him ; as about this time 
 the park must have been alienated to Sir Peter 
 Courtenay, * " whose daughter and coheiress, 
 
 * Sir Peter Courtenay, as stated in Cliffordiana, second 
 son of Sir William Courtenay of Powderham, was the first 
 lay possessor of Ugbrooke ; he died the twentieth of May,
 
 18 HISTORY OF 
 
 brought it to Anthony Clifford of Borscombe, in 
 Wilts, and Kingsteignton in Devon." Lawell, 
 another portion of the church property, passed 
 into the hands of Eastchurch, and his name is 
 coupled with that of Mr. Clifford, in the manage- 
 ment of the local affairs of the parish, soon after 
 the reformation. The manor of Chudleigh, which 
 we have just stated to have been purchased by 
 Thomas Bridges, was again sold by him, or pro- 
 bably by a son of the same name, in one thousand 
 five hundred and eighty-nine, to Thomas Hunt of 
 Hams Barton in this parish, and John Hunt, re- 
 sold it to Hugh Lord Clifford, for the sum of two 
 hundred and fifty-three pounds seven shillings ; 
 and by this family, it is still possessed. It may 
 also be worthy of notice, although shewn else- 
 where, that Hams, belonging to the Waddon 
 district, was an ancient inheritance ; forming no 
 part of the church property. Although the 
 pedigree of the Hunts, is not traced farther back 
 
 one thousand five hundred and fifty-two. Ugbrooke seems 
 to have been the jointure of his widow Elizabeth, but with 
 reversion to her son-in-law Anthony Clifford, who had mar- 
 ried her third daughter, Anne.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 19 
 
 than one thousand five hundred ; the old mansion 
 house must have been built long before ; no records 
 exist concerning it of an earlier date ; as the 
 Hunts originally belonged to Exeter and they no 
 doubt obtained this inheritance by purcbase. 
 
 After the death of Henry the Eighth, from the 
 alteration of religion, " a rebellion that broke out 
 " in this diocese, was imputed partly to Bishop 
 " Veysey, because he lay far from it, and dwelt 
 " in his own country ; whereupon he resigned 
 " the bishoprick, into the hands of Edward the 
 " Sixth," when it was presented to Miles Cover- 
 dale, a reformed monk, born in Yorkshire, who 
 was consecrated at Lambeth, in one thousand five 
 hundred and fifty-one to the See of Exeter, by 
 Thomas Cranmer. It is indeed an interesting 
 fact, that this learned and excellent man, was 
 the first protestant bishop of our county ; he 
 spent his time in translating the scriptures into 
 the vernacular tongue ; and to prevent being 
 interrupted in his great work, committed tlie 
 wbole charge of his ecclesiastical jurisdiction, to 
 an able and excellent coadjutor, Robert Weston,
 
 20 HISTORY OF 
 
 who was afterwards lord chancellor of Ireland. 
 
 The death of the youthful and pious Edward 
 changed the tide of affairs, and they were destined 
 again to roll back on superstition, bigotry, and 
 oppression. By the accession of Mary, the re- 
 formation was suspended, and the Roman Catholic 
 religion re-established. Coverdale was ejected 
 from the See of Exeter, and compelled to fly to 
 the King of Denmark for protection. John 
 Veysey the lavish squanderer of the revenues 
 of the church, was again bishop of Exeter. 
 
 During this eventful period of our history, 
 when the fierce persecutions of Mary's days were 
 raging, the fires of Smithfield reached us not ; 
 the martyrdom of the faithful was chiefly confined 
 to London, Norfolk, Essex, and Kent. How- 
 ever, the terrible blast swept through the length 
 and breadth of the land, if not in its reality, yet 
 in terror and amazement ; they were indeed days 
 of mourning, and lamentation to all but the cruel 
 persecutors themselves. 
 
 Soon after the accession of Elizabeth, Cover- 
 dale was again offered the See of Exeter, but
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 21 
 
 preferred ending his days in comparative obscu- 
 rity. He died in London, May the twentieth, one 
 thousand five hundred and sixty-seven. 
 
 The sale of the manor and church lands by 
 Veysey, terminated the long established domi- 
 nation of the catholics in Chudleigh, and the 
 reformation entirely swept away the profession 
 of its faith from this town and neighbourhood : 
 there is no tradition or record whatever of its 
 having been retained. Its introduction took 
 place more than a century after this period, by 
 the Lord Treasurer Clifford, who embraced the 
 catholic faith in the days of Charles the Second. 
 His ancestors during the interval, from the refor- 
 mation to the time of the Lord Treasurer, had 
 been zealous protestants, and deeply interested 
 in the welfare of the established church. The 
 Chapel at Ugbrooke was built by him, and 
 consecrated by Bishop Sparrow."* 
 
 * " The Bishop of Exeter did accordingly proceed to its 
 consecration, "pernomen Cemeterii ct Capella? S. Cypriani," 
 on the seventeenth of July, one thousand six hundred and 
 seventy-one, and commends Clifford's pious and religious
 
 '22 HISTORY OF 
 
 All that fell to the parish of Chudleigh, in the 
 general confusion at the reformation, were a few 
 inconsiderable church lands, not particularlized 
 in Bishop Veysey's leases. The fairs and mar- 
 kets procured for the town by Bishop Stapledon, 
 appear to have been in the possession of Hunt, 
 and were redeemed by the parish, for a trifling 
 amount ; these became the principal source of 
 parish revenue. The advowson or the vicarage 
 of the parish church, soon after became the 
 property of Hunt, and as will be shewn in con- 
 nection with a description of the church, was 
 sold by Thomas Hunt to the parishioners in one 
 thousand six hundred and eighty-five. The rec- 
 tory or great tithes, belonged to the See of 
 Exeter some time after the reformation ; for we 
 read, " That the perpetuity of the rectory of 
 " Chudleigh, was granted to the Lord Treasurer 
 *' Clifford and his heirs male, and heirs general, 
 " by Charles the Second, on the fourth day of 
 
 devotion. But it is unquestionably true, that he declared 
 himself a Catholic, before the commencement of the year 
 one thousand six hundred and seventy-three." [CUffordiana.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 23 
 
 " .April, one thousand six hundred and seventy - 
 " three, but with the obligation of paying the 
 " sum of forty-two pounds per annum, to the pre- 
 " centor of Exeter Cathedral ; " this was a heavy 
 rental, according to tbe value of money in those 
 days, the great tithes are now commuted at two 
 hundred and fifty-five pounds per annum. From 
 the period of the reformation, there was in Chud- 
 leigh as throughout the rural districts generally, a 
 blending of civil and ecclesiastical institutions. 
 
 The vestry of the church became the grand 
 arena, for all discussions concerning the temporal, 
 as well as spiritual prosperity of the inhabitants. 
 The parish chest, ( still in the vestry ) was the 
 public treasury. The belfry was the weekly re- 
 lieving office, and the church tower was occupied 
 with stores, which were frequently sold there- 
 from for the benefit of the parish. 
 
 The register book of baptisms, marriages and 
 burials, commences about the first year of the 
 reign of Elizabeth, and afterwards appears to 
 have been corrected throughout, by the Rev. I{. 
 Woolcombe, the vicar of Chudleigh, in the year
 
 *2l HISTORY OP 
 
 one thousand six hundred. About this time, an 
 entry is made in the parochial register, of " two 
 shillings pd. to Nics. Thome for wryting eight 
 leaves in the new pchmt. booke." The account 
 book or parochial registers, also commence with 
 the reign of Elizabeth, and these shew, that the 
 parish was managed, by a body of men annually 
 chosen by the parishioners in vestry ; they con- 
 sisted of seven, and were always designated 
 " the seven men." Four of these seven, appear 
 to have acted in the capacity of treasurers of 
 the parish funds ; two were called " high store 
 wardens," and two " the young men's wardens." 
 The various meetings and consultations of these 
 worthies, and the principal inhabitants in the 
 said vestry, were no doubt frequency most 
 interesting ; but of the various entries made by 
 order of the " seven men," in the records handed 
 down to posterity, the greater part relate to 
 pounds shillings and pence. 
 
 The usual summary method of punishment 
 which they adopted, were whipping and setting 
 unhappy culprits in the stocks, unruly females on
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 25 
 
 the cucking stool,* and ejecting itinerant beggars 
 in a barrow to the next tithing. " The seven 
 men" were evidently no greater scribes tban their 
 neighbours ; for the first entry in these records, 
 in one thousand five hundred and fifty-eight, is an 
 item, a clerk was " pyde for wrytting of this 
 count, iiiid." The principal source of revenue 
 as just stated, were tbe tolls of the fairs and 
 markets. In one thousand five hundred and 
 sixty-one, they yielded an income of eleven 
 pounds six sbiilings and tenpence ; these con- 
 tinued gradually to advance, until one thousand 
 six hundred and fourteen, when they were let for 
 five years, for one hundred pounds. In one 
 thousand six hundred and twenty-six, the town 
 was visited by a contagious disorder, which was 
 designated a plague, and an allowance in conse- 
 quence of the loss, sustained by the absence of 
 
 * This instrument was a sort of chair, placed at the end of 
 a plank, in which the offender was placed, and ducked. It 
 was formerly made use of, to punish bakers and brewers, 
 upon transgressing the laws, made in relation to their several 
 trades ; for upon offending in this respect, they were ducked, 
 or plunged in some stinking or muddy pond, by means of this 
 chair. [Gregory's Diet. 
 D
 
 '2(5 HISTORY OF 
 
 the usual frequenters of the market, was made to 
 the renter of the tolls, ending the twentieth of 
 April, one thousand six hundred and twenty- 
 seven. There was also provision made in con- 
 sequence of this and other calamities, which had 
 from time to time visited the town, in the future 
 letting of the fairs and markets ; for in one thou- 
 sand six hundred and fifty-one, the rent was 
 sixty-seven pounds per annum, " provided there 
 were no contagious sickness, fire, or visible loss 
 by means of soldiers, or other considerations, 
 shall be had thereof, reasonable allowance given." 
 The rent of the fairs and markets still advanced 
 for in the year one thousand six hundred and 
 seventy-seven, they amounted to the sum of one 
 lmndred and twenty pounds per annum. 
 
 It had been the custom of " the seven men," to 
 provide an annual dinner, on the market account 
 day, and for the use of these banquets, in the 
 year one thousand five hundred and seventy- 
 seven ; we find, item " paide for six dozen of 
 tranchers." These dinners were discontinued in 
 the year one thousand six hundred and nine, and
 
 CHUDLEIGH. "27 
 
 an entry to this effect, " that there shall be no 
 dinner hereafter provided at the market account 
 day, at the charge of the parish :"* all that could 
 be saved was treasured up by " the seven men," 
 for the benefit of the parish.f The year before 
 this economical movement, a proposition was 
 made by Mr. Clifford, to begin the building of 
 alms houses, with the cash then in hand. 
 
 It was the custom of " the seven men," to lend 
 small sums to the poor gratis, upon bills to be 
 taken of their sureties for them, and to be return- 
 ed on the next annual market account " daie," as 
 appears in an item, " that the use of the parsons 
 of Chudleigh's monie ten pounds six shillings, 
 
 * The tranchers were no doubt sold to advantage when the 
 annual banquets were suspended. 
 
 f The expence of recreations was still continued and paid 
 for out of the parish funds, there are items, viz. : by payment 
 of rent for the bowling green, to Mr. Putt, at thirty shillings 
 per annum, and expence of composition for the same, twelve 
 pounds; with comfortable seats as appears by an item, 
 " mending the ' skeling stoule' and timber for the same. Writ- 
 ing of the articles for the bowling green." The barbarous 
 practice of bull baiting, also appeared to be sanctioned by 
 "the seven men," there is an entry for "mending the bull 
 ring."
 
 'HI HISTORY OF 
 
 should be yearly distributed among the poor of 
 the parish, upon ' Whitson daie,' and that two 
 persons shall be appointed, for the setting out of 
 the amount, to be lent to the poor." Money made 
 a high rate of interest in one thousand live 
 hundred and ninety-eight, " for the use of ten 
 pounds, borrowed for the parish, twenty shillings 
 interest per annum was paid." 
 
 The building of the alms houses was carried 
 into effect, in the year one thousand six hundred 
 and eleven, under the superintendence of Mr. 
 Hugh Clifford. Various sums entered for their 
 erection were a kind of floating capital until their 
 completion. These alms houses were evidently 
 much needed, there being some troublesome poor; 
 this was manifested by an order the same year 
 that " Beaton Bucketmaker and her companie, 
 shall be removed out of the church porch cham- 
 ber, upon the next visitation of my Lord Bishop 
 or before Barnabus daie next," and that, " that 
 chamber shall be no more sett to time, without 
 consent of Mr. Clifford, Mr. Eastchurch, Mr. 
 Putt, the Vicar, and others of the chiefest
 
 CHUDLEIGII. -2!* 
 
 inhabitants of the parish." The letting of the 
 western church porch chamber was suspended 
 henceforth, and the then sexton William Bailitt'e, 
 was to have in lieu of the churchporch, " five 
 shillings, to be paid on the general account daie." 
 The organs mentioned in the parish records, 
 were no doubt in the rood-loft ; they say paid to 
 " organ players, and also for other commodities for 
 the parish,'' and in one thousand five hundred and 
 sixty-eight " for syngeing (singing) bread," and 
 in one thousand five hundred and seventy-seven, 
 " item paid for pulling down the rood-loft * " : in 
 one thousand five hundred and ninety-one, " for 
 V money laid out and in part payment for the 
 " organs, and for carriage of them, and divers 
 " things bestowed in and about the same, as by 
 " bill thereof appeareth" : in one thousand six 
 hundred and five, " paid for a lock for the 
 organs, and for mending a pipe." In May the 
 tenth, one thousand six hundred and eight, 
 u promised, by Mr. Clifford and Mr. James 
 
 * A gallery in the church on which reliques or images 
 were set to view.
 
 30 HISTORY OF 
 
 " Eastcliurcli, that they will mount and erect the 
 " organs upon a stage fairly fitted before Christ- 
 " mas next, for four pounds, to be paid to them 
 " by the market man between this day and the 
 " next general account day." These two organs 
 had each a single row of pipes, treble, and bass ; 
 and of course two performers were required to 
 play them in full choir ; from the year one thou- 
 sand five hundred and fifty-five there are entries 
 of several sums as paid to players, these are 
 without doubt the organ players. In one thou- 
 sand five hundred and sixty-nine, item, " paid to 
 " the organ players, sixteen shillings." It is 
 certain there were two instruments : " organs" is 
 the entry in all these records, in addition to which, 
 a perforated oak sound board for a single row of 
 treble pipes, was firmly affixed to the belfry screen 
 for a seat ; this was evidently a part of one of 
 these instruments. 
 
 After the organs fell into disuse, the choir was 
 led by stringed and other instruments. In the 
 north aisle or transept, there were three rising 
 seats, traditionally called, the tenor, treble, and
 
 CHUDLEIGH. Si 
 
 bass seats. From these seats the choir removed 
 to the western gallery when erected, and the 
 original singing seats were occupied as pews. 
 On a further perusal of the parish records we 
 find, that " the seven men," not only supplied 
 the poor from the belfry, but they literally 
 converted it into a kind of general warehouse, 
 and sold the goods that were there collected. 
 These stores appear to have occupied the first 
 floor of the tower, and the first large pew to the 
 right, approaching the church from the belfry ; 
 which pew was always called the " bacon hutch," 
 till the alteration of the church, in one thousand 
 eight hundred and forty-eight. The record says, 
 item, "received for bread, and other stuffs* 
 which they gathered, one pound four shillings 
 and fourpence ; item for alle sold, three pounds 
 nine shillings and fourpence. One thousand 
 five hundred and eighty-nine, received for our 
 bread, and other things sold in the church, one 
 pound six shillings and eightpence ; item for the 
 church lolle, eight shillings." 
 
 * The rates were partly collected in grain, &c.
 
 32 HISTORY OF 
 
 It is evident that at this period, dogs were 
 most numerous ; and that finding food was 
 stored in the church, they became very trouble- 
 some ; all necessary precaution was taken by 
 " the seven men," to keep them off; consequently 
 a person was hired to be in attendance at certain 
 times for this purpose; in one thousand five 
 hundred and ninety-one, there is an item, " paid 
 John Macey, for keeping the dogges from the 
 church, sixpence"; and in one thousand five 
 hundred and ninety-nine, " paid to Nicholas 
 Bobbish, for one quarter, for whipping out the 
 tlogges from the church, tenpence." Thus arose 
 without doubt, the custom used even at the 
 present day in towns and villages., of styling 
 the verger the " dogwhipper,"
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 
 
 33 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 HE disturbed state of England 
 during the reigns of Mary and 
 Elizabeth occasioned by religious 
 dissensions, extended itself to this 
 remote part of the kingdom. Although at that 
 time no regular standing army was kept up, yet 
 we find on referring to the parish records, in one 
 thousand five hundred and sixty-seven, an item 
 paid for " setting forth of soldgers," under the 
 order issued by government, to train a certain 
 number to arms throughout the country, seeing 
 there would be required a force of men, on 
 account of these disturbances ; in one thousand 
 five hundred and seventy-two there is an item, 
 "paid to Michael Bobbish, to goe to Exeter to 
 fetch the cutler to clean the parish harness" ;
 
 :)1 HISTORY OF 
 
 another item in one thousand five hundred and 
 seventy-five, " paid for bombaste * for the soul- 
 diers" ; item, " paid to the cutler for dressing 
 the armour, and paid the same cutler for two 
 gorgetts" ; in one thousand five hundred and 
 seventy-eight, " paid to Thomas Cade for train- 
 ing of the soldiers, and to Nichs. Bennett at the 
 home coming of the solders" ; " more to him for 
 mending a sword and dagger," (broke in exercise 
 and not in real action ) ; and in one thousand 
 five hundred and twenty, " paid Greene for 
 stocking of the calliver," (a small ship's gun,) 
 for the county was now in a high state of disorder. 
 " Paid for seven swords, seven sword girdles, 
 and seven daggers." First of July, " paid for 
 two dozen points to tye the parish harness, f 
 these points were strings, used to fasten parts of 
 the dress, before that useful invention, buttons. 
 Item, " paid for two pounds of gunpowder ; for 
 drying the same sixpence," this was a small remu- 
 neration for so dangerous an undertaking ; " paid 
 for a leather bag to carry the gunpowder, sixpence." 
 
 * Bombast, a kind of fustian. t Armour.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 35 
 
 In the year one thousand five hundred and eighty- 
 four, " paid to the man that had the commission 
 for Archerie, and also to the men that wore the 
 parish armour at Totnes," where there was no 
 doubt, a general muster of the military forces ot 
 the South Hams, in consequence of the threatened 
 invasion of the Spaniards, which was attempted 
 soon after. Nothing could exceed the terror and 
 consternation which pervaded all classes through- 
 out England, and especially Devon, when the 
 Spanish Armada was announced to be in the 
 English Channel and within sight of Plymouth, 
 where it was however defeated, principally by the 
 gallantry of Drake, a native of the county, born 
 at Tavistock. This signal victory was gained in 
 the year one thousand five hundred and eighty- 
 eight. From this period, to the termination of 
 the reign of Elizabeth, nothing particular occur- 
 red to disturb the peace of the county. Affairs 
 appeared still tranquil during the following reign 
 of James the first. The woollen trade was then 
 active ; the inhabitants were busily employed in 
 combing, spinning, weaving, and fulling : fields
 
 :i6 HISTORY OF 
 
 on the other side of Kate-hrook, are still designa- 
 ted the " tucking fields." There are no accounts 
 of the number of serges manufactured, or of the 
 amount of wages then paid weekly. The only 
 criterion by which any conclusion can be arrived 
 at, is the annual rent of the market and fairs, and 
 this was considerable. The parish armour was 
 again held in readiness, and examined in the year 
 one thousand six hundred and twenty-seven, two 
 years after the accession of Charles the first, and 
 was then said to consist of ten head pieces and 
 murrions, two bills, and one tuck, three callivers, 
 four corsletts, and two muskets, in Mr. Vau- 
 ghan's* custody. From this period the conten- 
 tion between the unfortunate Charles and the 
 parliament, continued to increase : the king's 
 obstinacy, and the inflexible spirit of the 
 parliamentarians whose liberties they justly 
 considered the king to have infringed on, broke 
 out into open war, and deluged England in 
 bloodshed and confusion. 
 
 * Nicholas Vaughan, gentleman, elected about this time 
 as a muster master to the city of Exeter, at a pension of six 
 pounds per annum.
 
 CHUDLEIGH- 37 
 
 We read in Lysons, " that when the civil war 
 commenced in the seventeenth century, the whole 
 of Devon was in the hands of the committees of 
 safety, and the majority of the inhabitants attached 
 to the parliament." Whether this be the case or 
 not as it respects this county, it is quite certain, 
 that the king's affairs were so managed as in many 
 instances to convert his friends into open foes, for 
 instead of his forces being disciplined and con- 
 centrated, they were scattered throughout the 
 kingdom. About six thousand horse and foot 
 were scouring the west of England. These were 
 idle and dissolute, creating disorder and confu- 
 sion wherever they came. In many places the 
 inhabitants rose against them. Chudleigh had no 
 alternative but to afford them entertainment. 
 Soldiers were passing to and fro, sometimes 
 remaining quartered on the town for days together. 
 Numerous sums of money had to be paid by 
 " the seven men," out of the slender resources of 
 the parish funds. There is in the records, a par- 
 ticular note of disbursements kept by Abraham 
 Pinsent from which a few items will be given... 
 
 E
 
 38 HISTORY OF 
 
 Parties of the royalists occupied Chudleigh suc- 
 cessively, from the summer of one thousand six 
 hundred and forty-four, to January one thousand 
 six hundred and forty-six. Item, for " meate and 
 drink for two troopers, when the Prince's troope 
 quartered here, being the second of September, 
 one thousand six hundred and forty-five ; also for 
 captain Carey and his men, horses and the 
 guarde. Eight seames of fagot and four seames 
 of hard wood, when major general Molesworth 
 was here ; for the hay of eight horses, that came 
 with ammunition at the same time, being here three 
 days and three nights. Wood for the guards that 
 watcht ye ammunition when colonel Sheeley was 
 here two days and two nights. Wood for the 
 guards, and for sick meu belonging to colonel 
 Wise's regiment, from the tenth of November to 
 the tenth of December ; for lieutenant colonel 
 Porter's and divers other commanders of colonel 
 Sheeley's regiment, and their horses." It appears 
 that a dinner had to be provided for lord 
 Wentworth, at colonel Wise's quarters, on which 
 occasion there was " paid for three pulletts, one and
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 39 
 
 sixpence." To conclude the extracts referring 
 to the visits of the royalists of which many others 
 could be selected, we find " paid to the constable 
 in monie ten pounds " : this sum no doubt 
 included various outlays, as well as much time 
 employed, in providing for such expensive and 
 troublesome visitors. 
 
 Chudleigh shared largely, in the general con- 
 sternation of this eventful period of our history. 
 Besides the heavy expenses, the peaceful inhabi- 
 tants were no doubt in great dread of a collision, 
 between the contending parties. From the next 
 entry, we find how likely tbis was to have taken 
 place, " since ye parliament army cometh hither." 
 On their arrival, tbe parish was again taxed with 
 heavy expenses, as we read, from " the ninth of 
 January one thousand six hundred and forty- six 
 and onwards in different entries, for eighty-nine 
 seames of wood for the guards" ; with them are 
 coupled, the names of " colonel English, major 
 Finchen, lieutenant colonel Herbert, colonel 
 Sheffield, and other officers." In addition to the 
 wood, the winter being most severe, there are
 
 40 HISTORY OF 
 
 entries of " raeate and drink for troopers, waggon- 
 ers, guards, sick and wounded soldiers, which 
 were quartered here until March." Fairfax lodged 
 in the town one night at least ; even Cromwell 
 having intelligence, that a party of the royalists 
 lay at Bovey-Tracey, passed with his forces 
 through Trusham and Hennock as the most 
 private route, and there surprised the royalist 
 leaders, who were quietly enjoying a game at 
 cards, but they had the presence of mind to throw 
 their stakes out at the window, and while the 
 money was scrambled for by Cromwell's troop, 
 they escaped across the Bovey river. 
 
 The success that attended the parliamentarian 
 forces, under Cromwell and Fairfax in Devon- 
 shire, as elsewhere, is too well known to need 
 comment here. Interesting particulars of the 
 different skirmishes that took place, are already 
 before the public. " Cromwell's troopers" as our 
 records style them, had each to carry a foot 
 soldier behind ; when arrived at the scene of 
 action, they would present a double invincible 
 force, such as left to the royalists no chance of
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 41 
 
 success ; although aided by many of the leading 
 men of the county. Dartmouth was the last port 
 in Devonshire possessed by Charles' forces, and 
 there fell one of our influential and wealthy 
 neighbours, Sir George Chudleigh, whose ances- 
 tors are said to have been originally of this town. 
 It is thus related by Lysons, " major general 
 " Chudleigh was accused of treachery in these 
 " civil contentions ; however, he was taken prison- 
 " er by the royalists, when by the kindness of 
 " his captors, and the unjust accusations of his 
 " own party, he went over to the king's party, 
 " and was killed at the siege of Dartmouth." 
 As seen by the local records, Chudleigh was 
 occupied by some of the principal actors in all 
 this civil, or rather uncivil bloody strife of one 
 party of English-men against another. It was also 
 a deposit for ammunition, and head quarters for 
 tbe royalists. Hams Barton is supposed to have 
 been occupied by colonel Wise, and it is there no 
 doubt, that lord Wentworth was entertained. 
 
 The inhabitants acted most wisely, in preserving 
 a strict neutrality, receiving each party in turn ;
 
 42 HISTORY OF 
 
 had any strife arisen, some account would have 
 been handed down by history or tradition. Be- 
 fore entering on the records relative to the era of 
 the protectorate, it may be observed, that Crom- 
 well was inflexible in the pursuit of what he 
 thought right ; vigilant and active in the adminis- 
 tration of justice, and courageous as a warrior; 
 his greatest enemies have been compelled to 
 acknowledge, that all his measures for the welfare 
 of the country, were of the highest political order, 
 and crowned with abundant success both at home 
 and abroad. Compelled by his position, to keep 
 up a powerful military force, officers of the army 
 were sent through the country, to levy both 
 horses and money. Chudleigh did not escape a 
 visit, for we find in the parochial registers, that 
 in the year one thousand six hundred and fifty- 
 two, " Mr. Woolcombe's ( vicar) mare and saddle 
 " and Roger Winsor's ditto, were purchased by 
 " ' the seven men ' for ten pounds fifteen shillings ; 
 " there was also paid to the captain, by general 
 " consent, two pounds sixteen shillings." " Fire 
 " and candles for the troop, three shillings."
 
 CHL'OLfclGH. ■{?> 
 
 This recruiting party without doubt, took (he 
 horses to head quarters. Humphrey Pinscnt, 
 renting the fairs and markets at this time, was 
 evidently accountant to " the seven men, " and as 
 a deduction hung on the contingency of war, 
 made an entry accordingly ; it runs thus, " allow- 
 ance which I crave in time of war, one pound ten 
 shillings." 
 
 Nothing of importance occurred from the ter- 
 mination of the civil war, to disturb the tranquility 
 of our town ; indeed it seems to have preserved a 
 peaceful character throughout all its generations, 
 even when fierce and bloody contests raged 
 around and beyond, the monster evil of wholesale 
 murder, came not once within this lovely vale. 
 Here are no ruins of ivy covered battlements, 
 marking where lie the brave and noble ! no 
 clarion calling to warfare, has ever sent its shrill 
 echoes through our peaceful woods ! here is 
 no battle field, " where the spade, the plough, 
 disturb our ancestors." 
 
 It may be interesting to turn again to the 
 records, as developing the anxious and unceasing
 
 Ji HISTORY OF 
 
 concern manifested by " the seven men, " and 
 others for the welfare of the parish. 
 
 The Rev. Robert Woolcombe already mention- 
 ed in the registers, succeeded his father, Benedict 
 Woolcombe, and was instituted to the vicarage of 
 Chudleigh, in the year one thousand six hundred ; 
 in his latter years, being by age and infirmities, 
 unable to discharge the duties of the parish, he 
 was aided by a curate of the name of Charles 
 Wills. " The seven men" agreed to pay him ten 
 pounds yearly, " to be no precedent for the 
 future." Robert Woolcombe died January the 
 twenty-second, one thousand six hundred and 
 fifty-four. After his death the parish was without 
 a vicar, there being several entries at this time, 
 of sums paid for occasional supplies. The civil 
 and religious strife that so long distracted the 
 country, had no doubt the effect of thinning the 
 ranks of theological students in the colleges, for 
 instead of there being a host of applicants, not 
 even one came forward to apply for the vacant 
 benefice. At the time of this vacancy, the living 
 was at the disposal of William Putt, and James,
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 45 
 
 and Thomas Eastchurch ; they with " the seven 
 men" convened a meeting. The interesting 
 particulars of the resolutions then passed are well 
 worth being quoted in full ; " having this day 
 " met and conferred together touching the pro- 
 " curing of, and provision to be made for an 
 " orthodox and settled minister here in this our 
 " parish, have thereupon resolved as follows, Mr. 
 " Giles Inglett, one of ' tbe seven men,' be 
 " directed forthwith to write away to Oxford, to 
 " such of his acquaintance as he shall think fitt, 
 " for the purpose aforsaid : that when such a 
 " man as shall be thought fitt, shall be pitcht on ; 
 '* ' the seven men' according to the power to 
 " them given, doe cause such moneys belonging to 
 " the parish, as shall be requisite to be paid 
 " over and disbursed towards his journey and 
 *' preparation tbereof hither, that after his com- 
 " ing hither, he staying here half a year upon 
 " tryall, shall be payed after the rate of eighty 
 " pounds, paid out of the tythes of the said parish, 
 " and an augmentation out of the fayers and 
 " markets ; thai what charges Mr. Inglett shall
 
 4G HISTORY OF 
 
 " be at in entering a caveat above, or any other 
 " means in order to the said moneys belonging to 
 " the parish, and also for his paynes and trouble, 
 " in and about the same." After thus deputing 
 Mr. Giles Inglett to the important office of getting 
 an orthodox minister, " the seven men " with all 
 diligence, " requested Richard Manley and 
 Humphrey Shapter, to enquire after and view the 
 surplisses, organ pipes, and seats, and to certify 
 howe they shall find the same, at the next meeting 
 of ' the seven men,' and that the churchwardens 
 be spoken to, that they take orders for the repairs 
 of the clock, much in decay." Mr. Giles Inglett 
 was most successful in his application for a sound 
 orthodox divine, for we read another entry to the 
 purport that Humphrey Shapter be ordered to 
 pay out of his receipts, unto Mr. Giles Inglett, 
 forty shillings, to discharge a note of disburse- 
 ments for the parish, amounting to twenty-one 
 shillings, and the residue is a gratitude (gratuity) 
 to him and his son, for their paynes and care 
 in procuring Mr. Bloy, as well as for other 
 services."
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 47 
 
 On the tenth of May, one thousand six hundred 
 and fifty-eight, the parishioners and " the seven 
 men" met for the purpose of making arrangements 
 for the new minister, Mr. Bloy, who was come 
 from Oxford on trial ; forty shillings was immedi- 
 ately paid towards his journey hither. All 
 necessary repairs as well as the cleansing and 
 renovating the interior of the church, were effect- 
 ed before his arrival. " The seven men " and 
 the influential parishioners again met ( none joined 
 these consultations but the wealthy and respecta- 
 ble ) they proceeded most judiciously, observing 
 the strictest economy. In October it is further 
 entered, that Mr. Bloy is to have besides the 
 vicarage and premises, twenty pounds per annum, 
 to be paid quarterly, and twenty marks towards 
 his procuring the great seal for his induction. 
 There was gre^t anxiety, that all necessary pre- 
 liminaries for his being in full possession should 
 be completed if possible before Easter, as the 
 following entry proves ; " that he ( Mr. Bloy ) 
 " will procure himself ordained a minister, before 
 " the twenty-fifth day of March, or so soone as
 
 413 HISTORY OF 
 
 *' convenientlye he canne, and that the payment 
 " of the twenty pounds yearly, not to commence, 
 " until he be inducted to the said vicarage, and 
 " ordained a minister before the twenty-fifth day 
 " of March next ; then to have ten pounds for 
 "that half yeare": Mr. Bloy was regularly 
 inducted hefore Easter. The gown and surplices, 
 after a careful examination, were found alto- 
 gether the worse for wear and keeping, and 
 an item is accordingly entered " paid for a new 
 gown, four pounds," and the surplices repaired, 
 which in those days were made of dowlas. This 
 worthy vicar, obtained under such interesting 
 circumstances, gave great satisfaction during the 
 fifteen years of his ministerial labours, and at his 
 decease, left a donation to the parish of thirty 
 pounds. 
 
 Charles the Second ascended the throne under 
 circumstances the most propitious, but he destroy- 
 ed his own wellbeing and the prosperity of the 
 nation, by profligate extravagance and an inordi- 
 nate love of pleasure. The interesting fact that 
 one of his prime ministers was born at Ugbrooke,
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 49 
 
 naturally directs our attention to a few leading 
 particulars relative to the Clifford family. * As 
 before stated ; they became possessed of their 
 beautiful domain at the time of the Reformation. 
 Although their descent was noble, yet when first 
 located in our parish, they simply ranked with 
 the neighbouring gentry, as to wealth and influ- 
 ence. The name of Anthony Clifford first occurs 
 in the parish records, in one thousand five hun- 
 dred and seventy-seven. Thomas his son, baptized 
 at Chudleigh, the first of June, one thousand 
 five hundred and seventy-two, ( afterwards Dr. 
 Clifford,) was a singular character, he had served 
 in the army in the Netherlands, and had accom- 
 panied Robert, Earl of Essex, in his naval expedi- 
 tion to Cadiz. He applied himself to the study of 
 theology at Oxford and took the degree of Doctor 
 of Divinity. " On the second of March, one 
 thousand six hundred and thirteen, he was ap- 
 pointed afternoon lecturer in the Cathedral of 
 Exeter, by the mayor and chamber, with a salary 
 of fifty pounds per annum, and which was subsc- 
 
 * See description of Paintings, p. 152. 
 
 F
 
 50 HISTORY OF 
 
 quently increased by the addition of ten pounds 
 for the rent of his house. For three years he 
 filled this office. On the twenty-sixth of Novem- 
 ber, one thousand six hundred and twenty-five, 
 bishop Valentine Cary collated him to a prebend 
 in the cathedral, and in the same year he was 
 made a justice of the peace, for the county of 
 Devon." After this he preached without emolu- 
 ment, " to show others " as he himself expressed 
 it, " the way of avoiding those rocks whereon he 
 in his youth had sometimes run." During his 
 latter days he resided chiefly at Lower Bramble, 
 which lies at the extremity of the parish of 
 Ashton, between Chudleigh and Trusham. This 
 estate was possessed by Dr. Clifford in right of 
 his wife, one of the ancient family of Staplehill, 
 in memory of whom there are some curious old 
 monuments in Trusham church. He died one 
 thousand six hundred and thirty-four, aged 
 sixty-two, and was buried in our chancel, where 
 there is a grave-stone to his memory. His son 
 Hugh Thomas, married Mary, eldest daughter 
 of Sir George Chudleigh, of Ashton, Bart. He 
 was a colonel in the army of Charles the First,
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 51 
 
 and served in his expedition against the Scots. 
 His name frequently occurs in the records, as he 
 appears to have been deeply interested in the 
 welfare of the parish, having undertaken the 
 management of the erection of the alms houses, 
 a source of anxiety to " the seven men." After 
 his death, the records give us the particulars of 
 an interview, on the twenty-first of September, 
 one thousand six hundred and fifty-eight, between 
 his widow, who was also his executrix, and 
 " the seven men," which shews that colonel 
 Clifford's engagements with the parish, were 
 altogether unsettled at the time of his decease ; 
 the same record adds that though Thomas his 
 son, was " no way liable as concerned his fa ther's 
 transactions," yet he was most anxious to unite 
 with his mother, in the final adjustment of the 
 affair. This son, Thomas Clifford, was born at 
 Ugbrooke, one thousand six hundred and thirty. 
 After a suitable education, he was sent to Oxford, 
 and was admitted a commoner of Exeter college : 
 leaving the university, he entered the middle 
 temple, and afterwards travelled. In April one
 
 52 HISTORY OP 
 
 thousand six hundred and sixty, he was elected a 
 burgess for Totnes, and was knighted, and 
 re-elected the ensuing year. He distinguished 
 himself by his gallantry in the Dutch war, and 
 was conspicuous as diplomatist at the courts of 
 Sweden and Denmark, as well as deeply involved 
 in the intrigues carried on between Charles the 
 Second, and Louis the Fourteenth. His talents 
 and eloquence were altogether of a superior order. 
 We read in Ciiffordiana, " that on the eighth of 
 November, one thousand six hundred and sixty- 
 six, his majesty delivered to him the white staff 
 of comptroller of his household, and within a 
 month later, named him a privy councillor. On 
 the thirteenth of June, one thousand six hundred 
 and sixty-eight, he gave him the appointment of 
 treasurer to the household ; and on the eighth 
 of the following April, declared him a Lord 
 Commissioner of the Treasury. During lord 
 Arlington's absence in Holland, Sir Thomas 
 Clifford was directed to execute the duties of his 
 office as principal secretary of state. On the 
 twenty-second of April, one thousand six hundred
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 63 
 
 and seventy-two, the king raised him to the 
 peerage, by the style and title of Baron of 
 Chudleigh, and lastly by special recommendation 
 of his royal highness James, Duke of York, he 
 was advanced to the most profitable office in the 
 kingdom, viz. : that of Lord Treasurer, " so 
 quickly did one preferment follow another. He 
 was at the head of the government whose initials 
 form the word " Cabal," a term somewhat expres- 
 sive of their general policy and maladministrati- 
 on, their names were Clifford, Arlington, Bucking- 
 ham, Ashley, and Lauderdale. Lord Clifford was 
 finally made Lord High Treasurer of England, 
 but did not long enjoy this new dignity ; he died 
 the following year, at the age of forty-three, and 
 was interred in Ugbrooke chapel. To him are his 
 descendants indebted for their high position as 
 peers of the realm, with a large amount of property ; 
 for we read in Cliffordiana, " that on the fifteenth 
 of July, one thousand six hundred and seventy- 
 two, the king granted him Cannington Priory, 
 with its manor and rectory ; also the manor of 
 Fitzpain and the hundred of Cannington, with
 
 54 HISTORY OF 
 
 the free chapel of Piddlewaldeston. On the 
 eighteenth of June, one thousand six hundred and 
 seventy-three, he conveyed to him the perpetuity 
 of the Craslow pastures, near Aylesbury ; the 
 lease of which for a term of sixty years, he had 
 granted him about two years before." 
 
 The records during the reign of James the 
 Second, present nothing of importance regarding 
 the affairs of the parish. A unanimous invitation 
 was sent in consequence of James' misrule, to 
 William, Prince of Orange, to occupy the throne 
 of these realms. He landed at Brixham on the 
 fifth of November, one thousand six hundred 
 and eighty-eight, and slept in Chudleigh on the 
 second night at the mansion of the Cholwichs in 
 the centre of the town. He from one of the 
 windows harangued the inhabitants in broken 
 English, if not to their edification, at least to their 
 satisfaction, for he was universally hailed as the 
 deliverer of the country, from religious persecu- 
 tion, anarchy, and oppression. 
 
 About this period, the family of Woolcombe 
 were resident in Chudleigh, and their name is
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 55 
 
 of frequent occurrence in the parish register. 
 Robert Woolcombe, M. A., was a remarkable 
 character, and a few particulars concerning him 
 cannot but prove interesting. He was presented 
 to the living of Moreton, by one of the Courtenay 
 family, and ordained at Dartmouth, one thousand 
 six hundred and fifty-seven ; " he was a hard stu- 
 dent, a great philosopher, a sound solid preacher, 
 and a courageous advocate of non-conformity ; 
 for this he lost not only a good benefice, but a 
 good estate, being ejected from his living in one 
 thousand six hundred and sixty-two, and his 
 father disinherited him, making his son, his heir; 
 and charging in his will that he should not have 
 the educating of him." Mr. Woolcombe on his 
 ejectment, was followed by a few of his hearers, 
 and became the founder of the presbyterian church 
 at Moreton ; he had with his congregation to 
 endure severe persecution, he was by the five- 
 mile-act expelled from the town, and on his return 
 to visit his little flock, was seized and committed 
 to prison. This persecution lasted till one thou- 
 sand six hundred and eighty-seven, when Mr.
 
 66 HISTORY OF 
 
 Woolconibe and eleven others procured a license, 
 dated at Whitehall signed Sunderland ; for'this 
 a considerable sum was extorted. This license 
 became useless almost immediately after, by the 
 passing of the Toleration Act ; "amidst all these 
 conflicts and persecutions, Mr. Woolcombe found 
 a good conscience a continual feast, living con- 
 tentedly, and dying at peace in his house at 
 Chudleigh, in one thousand six hundred and 
 ninety-two." 
 
 The records from tins period being simply 
 parish accounts, no longer furnish matters of local 
 interest ; " the seven men " continued to be elect- 
 ed even towards the close of the eighteenth 
 century, and a majority of their names were to be 
 seen attached to notices, relating to parish affairs 
 in conjunction with the overseers and churchwar- 
 dens. The woollen trade, so long a source of 
 profitable industry to the inhabitants of Chudleigh 
 and the neighbourhood, gradually declined. The 
 loss of a flourisbing manufacture for which 
 nothing could compensate, was soon felt in the 
 waning prosperity of the middle and working
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 57 
 
 classes, and a continued diminution of the tolls 
 of the fairs and markets, which have finally be- 
 come but of little value. 
 
 AVestcote describes Chudleigh as " an ancient 
 market town, frequented with great resort of 
 neighbour parisbes every Saturday." Tbe fairs 
 were also considerable ; they were held on Easter 
 Tuesday, and the third Thursday and Friday in 
 June, which was a large sheep and lamb fair ; 
 and the second day was noted for the sale of 
 scythes, reaping hooks, and implements of hus- 
 bandry. The third fair was on the second of 
 October. The Easter is the only one of the 
 three that retains its importance, and there is 
 still a considerable show of cattle in the play- 
 park. The market, so important, is now sunk 
 into comparative insignificance, and the town 
 having lost its trade is no longer a " resort for 
 neighbour parisbes."
 
 5IJ HISTORY OF 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 | HE Bishop's Palace was situated 
 south of the town, within a few 
 paces of the romantic rock, on an 
 eminence united to its summit, 
 which extended across the vale. It was surround- 
 ed by rich pastures, stretching from the church 
 to the parish boundary of the Teign. On the 
 east lay the dell with its woody copse, and imme- 
 diately beyond, Ugbrooke Park ; the last formed 
 a portion of the ecclesiastical property, and the 
 Precentor was permitted to reside in it for the 
 convenience of collecting the manorial dues. The 
 palace was reached by a gradual ascent, and 
 although thus elevated, was sheltered on all sides 
 but the south-west. Most of our baronial and 
 princely structures, even when crumbling into
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 59 
 
 dust, have still left some walls to define their ex- 
 tent or some distinct features, to shew by their 
 style of architecture, the different stages of 
 their advancement. Here on the contrary, the 
 merciless hand of time and the avarice of man, 
 have left but a few fragments of what for centuries 
 adorned the neighbourhood, and must have been 
 a grand and imposing structure. 
 
 The palace and the chapel dedicated to St. 
 Michael, extended nearly the whole width of 
 what is now an orchard. All that remains of the 
 palace are some stone steps, and portions of three 
 apartments arched over, witb their original heavy 
 stone work. These are now thatched, and con- 
 verted into cellars for the use of tbe farm. Tra- 
 dition says that beneath the ruins there are some 
 dismal vaults or dungeons; if such there be, they 
 were alike common to all palaces and castles 
 built at the same period, and were the necessary 
 strong holds for thieves and malefactors, as the 
 punishment of evil doers was vested in the Lords 
 of manors. In a line with the palace, and 
 separated from it by an open area, lay the
 
 t>0 HISTORY OF 
 
 chapel ; these buildings appeared to have been 
 connected on the west, by a high wall that 
 enclosed the area. The palace evidently faced the 
 hanging woods of the romantic and beautiful dell. 
 A coin of the wall of some height and immense 
 thickness is all that now remains of the chapel. 
 The most perfect of the ruins are the boundary 
 walls, that, towards the south-west has in it 
 arched loop holes of highly finished masonry, 
 these command an extensive view of the country 
 south, and are placed at regular distances, simi- 
 lar to those met with on fortified walls, often 
 with the addition of towers. Adjoining this 
 boundary, was probably situated the portcullis 
 gate, by which the palace area was entered. The 
 accumulation of soil in which these ruins are 
 concealed is immense, it hides more than half 
 the western wall, and most probably belonged to 
 a stately " plaisaunce " with parterres and ter- 
 races extending without doubt to the summit of 
 the rock, such as were generally found surround- 
 ing all the palaces, and religious houses of the 
 catholics. Men shutting themselves up from
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 61 
 
 the business of the world, took refuge in their 
 gardens, and on them bestowed much time and 
 energy. It is probable from the early mention 
 of the palace, in the records of the Cathedral 
 church of Exeter, that it was erected about the 
 year eleven hundred. This and the following 
 century ( as is well known ) are styled the age 
 of architecture ; a vast number of religious 
 edifices were then built throughout the kingdom, 
 and in consequence, a great improvement was 
 observable in their style. 
 
 The burying ground, one of the important 
 appendages to the chapel, lay in the eastern 
 corner of the orchard, as here some skeletons 
 were dug up when the road to the quarry was 
 recently widened. The ancient flour mill was 
 connected with the " plaisaunce," by a narrow 
 pathway and wall, a part of which was also 
 standing until of late. The flour mill was the 
 necessary accompaniment to ecclesiastical estab- 
 lishments, as the early bishops and abbots had 
 frequently to supply the wants of the poor, as 
 well as to provide for their own numerous retinue. 
 
 G
 
 62 HISTORY OF 
 
 A well and spring in the vicinity of the palace, 
 still retain the names of Bishop's well, and St. 
 Mary's spring. The principal entrance to this 
 domain from the western road, was through a 
 noble gothic arched gateway, about the site of the 
 garden now belonging to the palace cottage. 
 This gateway was taken down within the memory 
 of some of the present inhabitants, its demolition 
 must be a source of some regret, to all who were 
 admirers of interesting relics of by-gone days. 
 The space between this entrance and the palace 
 was considerable, and was probably adorned with 
 groves and alleys. The present site of the modern 
 cottage may have been that of the offices, and sta- 
 bles. An antiquarian aided in his investigation of 
 these ruins on removing the soil, by which they 
 are covered, might unravel much that concerned 
 their original grandeur and extent, and portray 
 them more minutely. No description of what the 
 palace and chapel were in their palmy days, is 
 extant. The few records of historians, only refer 
 to their utter ruin and desolation. Risdon thus 
 writes, " the bishops of this diocese had a
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 63 
 
 sumptuous seat here, with the manor thereunto 
 belonging, part of which structure yet standeth, 
 which only numbereth what large possessions 
 once they had, and how little they now enjoy in 
 this place." Lysons writes, " at Chudleigh are 
 several walls and arches, which belonged to the 
 bishops of Exeter, at that place"; such are the 
 sole remains of this once magnificent abode of 
 priestly grandeur. Its massive arches, marble 
 pillars, and the materials which composed the 
 walls were sold, and used for different purposes, 
 some were thrown into the adjoining kiln and 
 converted into lime. According to Dr. Oliver, 
 this palace was a favourite residence of the early 
 bishops, it must have strikingly contrasted in 
 beauty of situation and elegance of structure, with 
 their dull abode at Exeter, but how is the scene 
 changed ? The lovely " plaisaunce," with its 
 parterres and terraces, are no longer decked with 
 choice flowers. The apartments in which an 
 anxious audience once listened to the precepts, 
 hung on the consolations, or awaited the com- 
 mands of their priestly lords, are now desolate,
 
 64 HISTORY OF 
 
 its literal and pretended foundation on a rock 
 has not prevented its fall. Within the walls of 
 the chapel dedicated to St. Michael, there must 
 have been enjoyed many seasons of rapt devotion 
 in the celebration of high mass, and the awe 
 inspiring ceremonies of the church of Rome. 
 Many expensive obits and solemn requiems have 
 been there chanted for the souls of the departed. 
 Many ordinations have there added the sons of 
 the wealthy and noble to the catholic priesthood. 
 Imagination may lend an ear to the chanted 
 matin, rising with morning's dawn, and the 
 " Ave-Maria, " mingling with the shades of 
 evening. In the silent hour of midnight the rock 
 itself has witnessed without doubt the infliction 
 of many a severe penance, and the sustentation of 
 many a lengthened vigil. With the death of 
 bishop Lacy, in the year one thousand four 
 hundred and fifty-five, and the departure of his 
 remains from the palace, it appeared as though 
 " Ichabod " were inscribed on its walls; no 
 further mention is made of it, until sold by bishop 
 Veysey^at the reformation.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 65 
 
 From the occasional residence of the bishops of 
 Exeter at the palace, the town was indebted for a 
 supply of running water obtained from a distance ; 
 a few particulars concerning the interesting fact, 
 will next claim attention. Chudleigh by its 
 natural position, was deprived of this important 
 essential to cleanliness and comfort. It is true 
 that it had brooks, but they flowed in the vallies, 
 and were only available by steep ascents and 
 descents. We have no record as to the period, 
 in which this great boon was obtained, or any 
 particulars concerning its accomplishment. Tra- 
 dition ascribes it to bishop Lacy, who according 
 to Izacke, "well governed the church thirty-five 
 years from one thousand four hundred and 
 twenty." It has always been considered to have 
 been effected for the accommodation of the palace, 
 at the same time, giving the inhabitants a partici- 
 pation in its advantages. The source of the 
 spring was found under Haldon, in a dingle now 
 belonging to M. E. N. Parker, esquire. Before 
 diverted by a weir, it flowed towards Bramble- 
 brook, which falls into the Teign, at Crocombe
 
 GG HISTORY OF 
 
 bridge. The new channel marked out for this 
 little stream, was ably and judiciously executed. 
 It flows nearly parallel with the new Exeter road 
 as far as Heathfield Cottage : but here it was on 
 an eminence east of Chudleigh, and had therefore 
 after being carried across the old road, to pursue 
 a winding and retrograde course, until brought to 
 a right level, for again being turned towards 
 Chudleigh ; it was then made to flow on to a 
 pleasant path-field, situated at the top of Exeter- 
 street ; here it may be considered as waiting 
 disposal for the good of the town. For nearly 
 two centuries it poured a part of its treasures ( on 
 its way to the palace,) into a large stone trough, 
 at the bottom of Culver-street. In the year one 
 thousand six hundred and one, from an entry in 
 the parochial register, we find that " the seven 
 men " made a new " shoute " for the accommo- 
 dation of the west end of the town, the expenses 
 of which are thus summed up, " workmens wages 
 and theer dyett as appeareth from theer books in 
 pticular four pounds thirteen shillings and four- 
 pence." To supply this " shoute," a part of the
 
 CHUDLETGH. (57 
 
 stream was diverted from meadows still called 
 Shute-lands, as wending its way to the Bishop's 
 palace, where it evidently formed a fish-pond, 
 which was often found in connection with the 
 early catholic establishments. Another entry 
 shews, that the Pot-water as it is called, claimed 
 the particular attention of " the seven men," item 
 " pd. for redding of the towne leate from the 
 hedd wear unto the newe shoute at the west end 
 of the towne, twice this two years, fourteen 
 shillings and eightpence." This stream is now 
 under the control of a committee appointed by 
 the parish, yearly, on the twenty-second day of 
 May. Instead of pouring its treasures into a 
 stone trough, they now flow through a conduit 
 connected with the granite pillar in the centre of 
 the town, and are otherwise so guided and 
 distributed, as to afford a supply to all the 
 inhabitants. The source under Haldon is about 
 three miles distance, which is considerably in- 
 creased by its winding course, as it is carried 
 through more than twenty fields, and crosses in 
 its way five different roads. The work considering
 
 68 HISTORY OF 
 
 the early period of its accomplishment, was one of 
 considerable skill and labour. While the palace 
 itself has decayed, and the name even of the bene- 
 factor who originated and completed this impor- 
 tant work, is in obscurity, the stream drawing 
 on nature's exhaustless treasury, has for nearly 
 five centuries pursued its quiet way, refreshing 
 man and beast, with one of the essentials of 
 natural life. 
 
 The Woollen Trade once entensively carried 
 on, and intimately connected for centuries with 
 our ancient town, requires a few remarks, and 
 naturally induces a few observations as to the cause 
 of its final abandonment. Tbe rapid progress 
 made in modern discoveries, of which machinery 
 is the crowning point, and the application of this 
 most important branch of mechanism, has its 
 particular bearing on the subject. The ability of 
 applying and equally distributing force by human 
 hands without the operation of machinery, is 
 very limited, and in all our works of art, it is 
 found necessary in the present age, to call in the 
 aid of mechanical power of one kind or another ;
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 69 
 
 those who have taken the lead in reducing to 
 practice the modern improvements in manufac- 
 turing science, have not only been themselves 
 rewarded by the accumulation of wealth, but have 
 conferred on their immediate localities a great 
 amount of good, by their encouragement of an 
 enlightened and concentrated industry : as an 
 instance of this, the application of spindles and 
 shuttles driven without hands, have secured for 
 the enterprising inhabitants of Yorkshire, the 
 transfer of a trade that once had its principal 
 seats amid the rural scenes of Devon. It is true 
 that a particular branch of the trade still exists at 
 Buckfastleigh, Ashburton, and a few other towns, 
 but even at these places, where experienced 
 hands, and considerable capital are employed, the 
 trade flags, and every year sees rather a diminu- 
 tion than an increase. 
 
 There can be no hesitation in ascribing to 
 Chudleigh, an early and important share of this 
 trade. All the middle and labouring classes, as 
 well as many of the wealthy farmers belonging 
 to neigbbouring parishes, were in one way or
 
 70 HISTORY OF 
 
 another connected with it. No public or private 
 local record exists, respecting the particular sort 
 of flannel or serge manufactured, but it was well 
 known to merchants formerly carrying on the 
 trade in Devon, that its ancient fabrics were of a 
 peculiar and excellent kind, and bore the name of 
 " Chudleighs," not only at the time, but long 
 after they had ceased to be made at that place 
 where they had originated and been brought to 
 perfection. There are still a few of the aged 
 inhabitants, who recollect when processions of 
 woolcombers clothed in woollen caps and 
 gowns, paraded the town on particular days, the 
 elder of the fraternity being equipped as Bishop 
 Blaize, (the patron saint of the trade), with a 
 mitre on his head ; so completely is the scene 
 changed, that the past appears rather as a dream 
 tban reality. The slight information that oral 
 tradition supplies, refers altogether to the days of 
 its decline and final abandonment. Mr. Moore, 
 in his history of Devon, has ably traced out the 
 origin, rise, and decline of the woollen trade ; a 
 few short extracts will throw much light on the
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 71 
 
 subject, and cannot but prove highly interesting. 
 " The manufacture of woollen cloth in Devon, as 
 well as England in general, appears to have been 
 derived from Flanders, and the Low Countries. 
 No mention is made of fulling mills in this 
 county, in the Doomsday survey ; but from their 
 being noticed in the records of Edward the First, 
 who granted charters to foreign merchants and 
 manufacturers, for the purpose of settling in the 
 kingdom, it is evident that cloth was made in 
 Exeter and Chudleigh," here we see Chudleigh 
 is mentioned in connection with Exeter, as manu- 
 facturing cloths at this early period. " Edward 
 the Third, also by the measures he adopted for 
 the encouragement of manufactories, contributed 
 greatly towards laying the foundation of our 
 national superiority ; he gave great encourage- 
 ment to weavers of woollen cloths, as well as 
 dyers and fullers from the continent, who came to 
 London, and afterwards settled in different parts 
 of the kingdom. It is known that a wool-staple 
 existed in Exeter, in one thousand three hundred 
 and fifty-four ; from this period the trade gra-
 
 72 HISTORY OF 
 
 dually increased in importance throughout the 
 county, and many eminent clothiers were not 
 long after to be found in the principal towns." 
 Exeter rose to be the greatest wool market in 
 England, " its ordinary sales of wool on Fridays, 
 amounted to the value of ten thousand pounds 
 sterling." Westcote clearly describes the state 
 of the trade in his days, and after tracing its 
 progress, and the description of goods then manu- 
 factured, adds, " first the gentleman farmer, or 
 " husbandman, sends his wool to the market, 
 " which is bought either by the comber or spin- 
 " ster, and they, the next week bring it thither 
 " again in yarn, which the weaver buys ; and 
 " on the market following, brings it thither again 
 " in cloth ; where it is sold either to the clothier, 
 " (who sends it to London,) or to the merchant, 
 " who ( after it hath passed the fuller's mill, and 
 " sometimes the dyer's vat, ) transports it. The 
 " large quantities whereof cannot be well guessed 
 " at, but best known to the custom-book where- 
 " unto it yields no small commodity, and this 
 " is continued all the year throughout." The
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 73 
 
 great increase of the woollen manufacture in 
 the seventeenth century, ( Mr. Moore again ob- 
 serves, ) " was occasioned by tbe revival or 
 extension of the sale of English cloth in Italy, 
 Turkey, and the Levant." Morrison, who was 
 in Turkey in one thousand five hundred ;in<l 
 ninety-six, speaks of " Kerseys and Tin as our 
 chief articles of commerce in tbat market. The 
 East India trade was at one time immense, from 
 one thousand seven hundred and ninety-live, to 
 one thousand eight hundred and five, the average 
 of their purchases was two hundred and fifty to 
 three hundred thousand pieces annually," each 
 piece containing twenty-six yards, called long ells. 
 In this branch and the Turkey trade, Chudleigh 
 was chiefly concerned. In addition to this 
 brief sketch of the once flourishing state of the 
 woollen trade generally throughout the county, 
 it may be added as a reference to Chudleigh 
 itself, that Mr. John Pulling, who died about a 
 century ago, was the last of our original 
 woolstaplers and clothiers. The wool combers, 
 spinners, weavers, and all he employed or with 
 
 H
 
 74 HISTORY OF 
 
 whom acquainted, ever cherished the most live- 
 ly recollections of his equity and benevolence. 
 His sons continued to carry on the trade ( though 
 greatly curtailed, ) and finally relinquished it 
 altogether. Messrs. Bailey and Leare, at a later 
 period converted Oil-park flour mills into a 
 woollen factory, and spun worsted for the weavers. 
 They were succeeded by a Mr. Bampford, who 
 belonged to a highly respectable firm in Somer- 
 setshire : Although carried on by him somewhat 
 extensively, proved far from lucrative, and at his 
 decease was relinquished. Mr. Pearce, of Exe- 
 ter, next rented these mills for about ten years, 
 when the trade was finally abandoned in the year 
 one thousand eight hundred and thirty. Not a 
 loom is now to be met with in the town where 
 they could be once seen through the old-fashioned 
 latticed windows of almost every poor dwelling, 
 while their attendant, the spinning-wheel, went 
 round and round at the respective cottage doors. 
 The woollen trade is lost to this county with no 
 hope of revival, the teaming population of the 
 north, with an abundance of fuel at command, and
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 75 
 
 all the united advantages of combined industry, 
 having left our towns far behind in ingenuity, 
 wealth, and intellectual attainments. 
 
 Before entering on the subject of the Chudleigh 
 fire, it appears necessary to observe, that there 
 belonged to the old town mansions of considerable, 
 antiquity. The residence of the Cholwichs, 
 formed a large court in the middle of the town. 
 Near the church there was another large house 
 with handsome oriel windows; these with other 
 buildings were illustrated in a series of published 
 views by Le Cort, a French artist. The market- 
 house was a long straggling building in the centre 
 of the town, and was taken down and rebuilt not 
 long before the fire : attached to it there was a 
 fine old town-cross, a flight of steps forming its 
 base. The workhouse opposite the church was 
 one of the most ancient buildings in the town, 
 from its dilapidated condition, and the miserable 
 accommodation it afforded its poor denizens, it 
 was taken down, and rebuilt at a considerable 
 expense to the parish, in the year one thousand 
 eight hundred and eighteen. The alms houses
 
 7<» HISTORY OF 
 
 at Hie entrance of Pottery-lane built by " tbe 
 *c\en men," consisted of two stories of five rooms 
 each, with a wooden gallery outside leading to 
 the upper apartments, were sold by tbe parish 
 and taken down in tbe year one thousand eight 
 hundred and twenty. 
 
 On the twenty-second of May, one thousand 
 eight hundred and seven, after a long continuance 
 of tine weather when all was sunny and tranquil, 
 and the inhabitants of Chudleigh were busily 
 engaged in their usual avocations, at twelve 
 o'clock the cry of fire arose. It broke out at a 
 bakehouse in Culver-street : the flames immedi- 
 ately spread to Mill-lane, then across to Exeter- 
 street, in which stood the King's-Arms Inn, one 
 of the important posting-houses of the town, 
 much in request from the travelling consequent 
 on the war. The stables and back premises of 
 this Inn, as throughout the town, were thatched, 
 and in many instances were on fire before the 
 dwelling-houses. The affrighted inhabitants thus 
 found themselves hemmed in with flames, while 
 endeavouring to save their goods, and had only
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 77 
 
 just time to escape, leaving much valued treasure 
 behind. A strong breeze springing up from the 
 east, the flames extended with fearful rapidity : 
 three streets were at once on fire, while large 
 flakes of burning materials were carried to all 
 parts of the town. The market-house rebuilt and 
 slated not long before, appeared to the inhabitants 
 a safe depot for their goods, and it was accord- 
 ingly soon filled ; not however to the safety of 
 what was there deposited, but to the destruction 
 of both ; as portions of goods were carried in on 
 fire, and the whole was quickly in a blaze. The 
 fire-engine had been taken out, but either from 
 excess of heat or want of water, was immediately 
 abandoned as useless. To the terror stricken 
 inhabitants, the place seemed doomed to utter 
 destruction, and they must have felt that no 
 effort of theirs could in any way avail in rescuing 
 it. At two o'clock a barrel of gunpowder ( kept 
 for fusing the lime rocks,) exploded, and shook 
 tbe town to its centre ; at the same time giving 
 a fresh impetus to the flames, while it added to 
 the general consternation, and scattered portions
 
 78 HISTORY OF 
 
 of books and papers more than a mile distant. 
 As the fire in the centre of the town abated, 
 wbere the flames had raged in terrific grandeur, 
 it was deemed advisable to pull down a few 
 houses to intercept the fire, in order to save if 
 possible the extremities of the town. Persons 
 were by this time assembled from the neighbour- 
 hood, and with tbeir assistance, this was promptly 
 done, but not before nearly two thirds of the 
 town was consumed. The fire that thus very 
 nearly swept the town from one end to the other, 
 and scarcely left a vestige of its most ancient 
 habitations, occupied a period of about only four 
 hours. Time would fail to relate all the circum- 
 stances connected with this tragic drama. Of all 
 the hairbreadth escapes of those, who (with what 
 they considered valuable, ) rushed hither and 
 thither through the flames, many even having 
 their clothes burnt on their backs — of sleeping 
 infants in cradles, and the aged almost as helpless, 
 who were removed from one supposed place of 
 safety to another — of anxious housewives who 
 were loaded with china and glass, which they
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 7!) 
 
 threw hastily down and smashed, while much 
 that was really valuable and substantial, was left 
 a prey to the devouring element. The mortal 
 remains of an old and respected inhabitant who 
 had died suddenly at some little distance, had 
 the previous day been brought back to his own 
 habitation near the centre of the town ; on the 
 cry of fire the coffin was removed into the street, 
 when the son of the deceased with an affectionate 
 solicitude stronger even than death itself, rushed 
 through the flames, from his own babitation 
 which was on fire, and tore off the burning pall 
 that covered the coffin, then with the aid of 
 a few friends, hurried it to the church-yard, 
 where the remains were hastily interred by the 
 vicar, two mourners being all that could be 
 spared from the appalling conflagration, to attend 
 the dead to its final resting place. It was truly a 
 fortunate circumstance that not a human life was 
 lost, amidst all the confusion of this awful scene : 
 night and darkness would have added tenfold to 
 its horrors. The coaches accustomed to p;iss 
 through about mid-day, were compelled to take
 
 80 HISTORY OF 
 
 a circuitous route to Haldon, through the play- 
 park, adjoining meadow, and up the Teignmouth- 
 hill by way of Bridgelands. One valuable horse 
 and a pig which could not be extricated perished. 
 The church was made a temporary resting place 
 tor the houseless inhabitants, where they mourned 
 over the loss of their long hoarded treasures, and 
 lamented their forlorn and destitute condition. 
 Tents were afterwards erected in adjoining fields, 
 for those who were utterly destitute, while the 
 more fortunate were accommodated in the dwel- 
 lings of their relatives and friends. 
 
 It is pleasing to turn from all this misery, to 
 the unbounded benevolence manifested on this 
 melancholy occasion. The sympathy of the 
 gentry of surrounding parishes was greatly ex- 
 cited, and clothes and food were poured into the 
 town in abundance. The masonic fraternity of 
 Teignmouth sent cart-loads of bread and beer, for 
 the necessitous. The bell of the town-cryer 
 almost daily announced the arrival of these 
 welcome and generous supplies, which were 
 distributed in the play-park. There were boxes
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 81 
 
 fixed at each end of the town, to receive the con- 
 tributions of the many hundreds, who came on 
 the following sabbath from all parts. Subscrip- 
 tion lists were opened far and near, and the 
 liberality of the public was unbounded ; twenty- 
 one thousand pounds were subscribed, besides 
 much private charity in money, clothes, bibles 
 and prayer books, which had no public record. 
 The leading men of the parish formed tbemselves 
 into a committee, with Lord Clifford as chairman, 
 to consider the most effectual means of affording 
 relief to the sufferers. The committee had no 
 easy task in the distribution of such an immense 
 sum ; and their difficulties were greatly increased 
 by strife and disunion among themselves. There 
 was also much trouble in checking the avarice of 
 many, who swelled their losses to an amount 
 altogether beyond the bounds of probability. 
 One of the most able and indefatigable of the 
 committee, thus addresses Lord Clifford, in the 
 preface attached to the financial report of the 
 various sums awarded : " in adjusting claims so 
 " multifarious and complicated, it cannot but be
 
 82 HISTORY OF 
 
 " supposed, but that some impositions may have 
 " been practised with success." On an inspec- 
 tion of the list, we must feel surprised at the 
 immense sums awarded to a few particular 
 individuals, as also at the names of many wealthy 
 persons as participators in public charity. It can- 
 not but be regretted, that a committee who had 
 so much power and money at command, had not 
 exercised it in securing for the town, buildings of 
 architectural strength and uniformity, and thus 
 have made Chudleigh as beautiful in itself, as it 
 is remarkable for its salubrious and delightful 
 situation. It is also a matter of regret, that no 
 memorial as a tablet or public building was 
 erected in remembrance of an event, which gave 
 the inhabitants a considerable amount of wealth, 
 and enabled them without delay to rebuild the 
 town, affording them in exchange new and 
 convenient habitations, for what were altogether 
 the reverse. 
 
 The Chudleigh fire which we have thus en- 
 deavoured faintly to portray, ( for it indeed 
 baffles description ) was for years an endless
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 83 
 
 theme of conversation, and to some extent is even 
 now a date for past events, " before and after the 
 fire" may literally be termed " household words." 
 If ever a town owed a deep debt of gratitude, for 
 responsive sympathy promptly manifested in un- 
 bounded acts of liberality, it is Chudleigh, and 
 though there is no record of its gratitude to be 
 found inscribed on marble or brass, the recollec- 
 tion can never be effaced from its private annals. 
 
 As travelling is in some degree familiar to us 
 all, it may not be uninteresting here to make a 
 few brief remarks, on the former state of the 
 roads in this neighbourhood. In no branch of 
 art do our ancestors appear more deficient, than 
 in that of making roads and keeping them in 
 repair. If a hill presented itself, the possibility 
 of turning the road otherwise than across the 
 highest part, was never thought of ; also equally 
 deficient, in making roads pursue the most direct 
 course to the desired point; indeed, they seemed 
 to think, ( if wc may judge from their lanes ) that 
 " the longest way round, was the shortest way 
 home," they were also equally indifferent as to
 
 84 HISTORY OF 
 
 the ruts and stones, the great impediments to 
 safe travelling. This state of things continued 
 with some little modification to the year one 
 thousand eight hundred and fifteen, when a 
 Scotchman named Mac Adam, turned his whole 
 attention to the subject, and the result is the hard 
 convex roads which we now enjoy, termed 
 " Macadamised." Many of the present generation 
 may remember, the conveyance of all kinds of 
 heavy goods by pack horses : a number of these 
 might be seen in a line, jogging along these 
 narrow and winding paths, the head horse bear- 
 ing a bell, by the tinkling sound of which, the 
 cavalcade was kept together and prevented from 
 straggling at nightfall. This rude and incon- 
 venient method of carriage, continued till the 
 latter part of the last century, when one horse 
 carts came into general use. 
 
 The great western road had its course through 
 Chudleigh from a comparatively early period, it 
 is noticed by Westcote as a " great thoroughfare 
 lying in the high-way from Plymouth to 
 Exeter," this route from Chudleigh was formerly
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 85 
 
 up the hill called Heathfield-lakes, it cannot but 
 excite our wonder, that such dangerous hilly 
 roads were in use even to a recent date. The 
 long slow coaches drawn by four and sometimes 
 six horses, had during the war to toil up this and 
 similar hills on their way to and from Plymouth, 
 to the no small risk and terror of the travellers. 
 From Exeter to Plymouth, the journey occupied 
 a long day, or rather fourteen hours, a distance 
 of only forty-six miles. The Pottery-lane or old 
 way, was the original path to Chudleigh-bridge. 
 Chudleigh had no communication with Newton, 
 or the South Hams in former days, except by 
 crossing Heightly-bridgc, situated east of Chud- 
 leigh-bridge up Sheppards-hill, which as of yore 
 is almost perpendicular. The present road to 
 Newton following the course of the Teign, is 
 nearly level, it gave a new route to Plymouth. 
 From parish to parish the paths were all but 
 impassable, that to Ashton after crossing Cro- 
 combe-bridge, was contiguous to the river, it was 
 often overflown, and almost as rough as the bed 
 of the Teign itself. The roads to the neighbour-
 
 86 HISTORY OF 
 
 ing parishes, that were alike impassable for 
 vehicles, are now excellent. 
 
 The romantic old bridge over the Teign, was 
 taken down in the year one thousand eight 
 hundred and sixteen. It is thus described by 
 Polwhele, " Chiddely Bridge as Leland calls it, 
 is a county bridge : it consists of two large arches 
 and one very small, to draw off the water." 
 Whatever these historians thought of it, this 
 county bridge was narrow, the walls low, the 
 approach at each end was by a sharp turn, its 
 passage was altogether dangerous for the long 
 heavy laden coaches. It had angular recesses 
 for the protection of foot passengers, if overtaken 
 while crossing it. Its foundation stones are still 
 visible a little above the site of the present 
 elegant granite bridge, which with one spacious 
 arch of considerable elevation, spans the river in 
 a direct line with the descent from Chudleigh. 
 The inconvenience arising from the rough and 
 hilly state of the road to Exeter, was not reme- 
 died until the year one thousand eight hundred 
 and twenty-two ; when a new road was cut over
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 87 
 
 Haldon towards Kennford. The travelling through 
 Chudleigh after its completion, was very great, 
 it included six royal mails, a number of stage- 
 coaches, and a variety of other vehicles. Among 
 the vicissitudes that have befallen our little town, 
 the last and not the least, is the loss of wealth and 
 activity, incident on its former importance as 
 belonging to the great western thoroughfare ; 
 the opening of the South Devon railroad super- 
 seding it almost entirely, and leaving the town in 
 rural seclusion.
 
 88 
 
 HISTORY OF 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 lIHOli N the Southern Division of Devon, 
 in the Hundred of Exminster, and 
 the Deanery of Kenn, on the great 
 western road to Plymouth and one 
 hundred and eighty-two miles from London, is 
 situated the well known town of Chudleigh. 
 The parish extends about four miles from north 
 to south, and about three and a half from east to 
 west, containing six thousand two hundred and 
 thirty acres. The population according to the 
 last census was two thousand four hundred and 
 one, and the town comprises about five hundred 
 houses. It is built on an eminence belonging to 
 the western side of a vale, that stretches towards 
 the Teign and Knighton Heath. It may be well 
 said that this little town is beautiful for situation,
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 89 
 
 " set on a hill " in the midst of a continuous 
 descent ; a peculiarity that gives to it an air of 
 cheerfulness and importance, and makes it a 
 pleasing object from whatever direction it is be- 
 held. Had commissioners in connection with the 
 present sanitary movement been invited to select 
 a spot on which to build, none could have been 
 found more healthy or cheerful, than this chosen 
 by our rude ancestors. The surrounding parishes 
 lie as follows ; Kenn and a part of Exminster, 
 north and north-east ; Trusham and Ash ton, 
 north and north-west ; from which parishes it is 
 separated by Bramble-brook, which falls into the 
 Teign at Crocombe-bridge. Hennock, west and 
 south-west, divided by the Teign. Kingsteignton, 
 south ; Ideford, further east, and Ashcombe, 
 north-east, where it finally joins Kenton. These 
 different parishes encircle Chudleigh, although 
 some of them are distanced by Haldon, whose 
 barren acres are divided between them and 
 Chudleigh. 
 
 Its western boundary, the Teign, ( anciently 
 written and now generally pronounced Ting, * so 
 * From the Gaelic word Tain, water or stream.
 
 00 HISTORY OF 
 
 called by the Britons, for that " it is narrowly 
 pent with narrow banks") is thus described by 
 Lysons, " rises on the borders of Dartmoor with 
 two heads meeting near Holy-street, Chagford, 
 near Whiddon Park and Moreton Woods, near 
 Dunsford, Christow, Hennock, Chudleigh-Knigh- 
 ton, and Teigngrace, where on an estate called 
 Teignyeo, it is joined by the Bovey-river, thence 
 to Kingsteignton ; hereabouts it becomes a wide 
 estuary, and falls into the Sea between Shaldon 
 and Teignmouth, its course having been about 
 thirty miles. " 
 
 Polwhele, when exploring this parish, appears 
 to have been altogether overcome with the beauty 
 of the scenery around Chudleigh, and rather 
 singularly writes as follows, " For the pictu- 
 resque views which this parish affords, they are 
 really so romantic as to beggar description," 
 however, some idea may be conveyed of what 
 really constitutes its picturesque beauty, when a 
 brief outline of some of its principal features is 
 given. On the east, the vale is bounded by 
 rising ground of uniform elevation, through which
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 91 
 
 may be traced an irregular stratum of mountain 
 lime rock reaching to the foot of Haldon. This 
 high tract of land is crowned with the richly 
 wooded confines of Ugbrook Park ; after shelter- 
 ing the town, it is expanded and interspersed with 
 the lime rocks that rise to a considerable eleva- 
 tion ; surrounded by trees, their tops clothed 
 with mountain plants and lively verdure, while 
 immediately beyond rises Haldon, its barren 
 line forming a striking contrast to the rich vale 
 below. On the west, the view consists of alter- 
 nate hill and dale, extending far beyond the 
 boundary of the parish, it includes the vale of the 
 Teign, interspersed with rich pastures, a succes- 
 sion of hills terminating in the distant tors of 
 Dartmoor. Towards the south-east, another 
 scene of indescribable beauty presents itself 
 as luxuriant as Haytor is wild. The scenery 
 around Chudleigh can vie with any of the most 
 admired spots of Devon, or even England. The 
 wonders of the Peak, and the lakes of West- 
 moreland, may have some superlative points of 
 attraction, and all the charms that the genius of
 
 1)2 HISTORY OF 
 
 poetry can throw around them : but here nothing 
 is wanting to excite the mind of the enraptured 
 admirer of rural scenery. Humboldt includes 
 the south of England with several delightful 
 regions of the earth, such as Brittany, Normandy, 
 Guernsey and Jersey, as distinguished by tbe 
 mildness of their winters, and the low tempera- 
 ture and clouded skies of their summers, forming 
 a striking contrast to the climate of the interior 
 of Eastern Europe. These beautiful spring and 
 summer clouds, ( " as they are variously moulded 
 by the sun," ) fling their deep shadows on the 
 hills around, momentarily altering the features of 
 the landscape, then, as they glide from hill to 
 hill, delight while they astonish the beholder by 
 their transforming effect, and prove how justly it 
 has been observed, " that the clouds themselves 
 are often characteristic and animating features 
 of the prospect." The air in this neighbourhood 
 is considered peculiarly dry and bracing, as well 
 as genial. The eastern series of limestone hills 
 contributing greatly to its salubrity. Fogs are 
 seldom felt within its precincts, and the town is
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 93 
 
 raised above the humid vapour of the Teign. The 
 south and south-west winds prevail here as in 
 the south of Devon, generally a considerable 
 portion of the year, to them our town is com- 
 pletely exposed, but although they are rude and 
 boisterous, they are seldom cold or piercing ; on 
 the contrary the westerly breezes that reach this 
 vale from Dartmoor softened by the woody tract 
 over which they pass become pure, fresh and 
 elastic, and thus invigorate the many invalids 
 who are recommended here, as a change from the 
 relaxing heats of the southern coast. They have 
 often literally proved gales of health to numbers 
 perfectly restored, after a month's residence in 
 this neighbourhood. In common with other parts 
 of Devon, spring commences and fruits ripen 
 earlier than elsewhere in England, with the 
 exception of a few favoured localities such as 
 Penzance. The beautiful private gardens of the 
 town have many delicate shrubs surviving the 
 winter without extra care. The writer is not 
 aware that any registers exist, determining the 
 quantity of rain that falls, or the actual state of 
 the temperature throughout the year.
 
 94 HISTORY OF 
 
 After crossing Haldon, Chudleigh is approach- 
 ed on the north by a beautiful and gradual descent 
 of three miles : the town is then entered by a 
 steep ascent. The first object that meets the 
 eye, is a noble row of elm trees of equal growth 
 surrounding the church. The town at its first 
 survey, appears to consist of one main street of 
 considerable length, but in fact, there are three 
 that run parallel to the centre. These are 
 Culver-street by which the town is now entered 
 from the north, Exeter-street once the principal 
 thoroughfare, and Woodway, chiefly tenanted by 
 the poorer inhabitants. In the centre of the town 
 there is a triangular space where the old market- 
 house formerly stood, now there is a granite 
 pillar of recent erection, to which are attached a 
 pump and conduit. From this area a street 
 branches off to the south-east known by the 
 appellation, Mill-lane, and leading to the beautiful 
 watering places of Teignmouth and Dawlish, 
 about seven miles distant. The remaining part 
 of the town consists of a wide and pleasant street. 
 The pavements that were rough and uneven, are
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 95 
 
 now being gradually flagged with hewn stone 
 from the marble quarries. The houses are chiefly 
 built of stone its native material, and the town 
 presents a neat and cheerful appearance. No 
 building speculation has been carried on to any 
 extent, as in many towns less favoured. The 
 commodious habitations belonging to Chudleigh 
 have been chiefly built by their wealthy pro- 
 prietors. 
 
 The Church is a venerable gothic pile, built of 
 limestone interspersed with red sandstone, and in 
 some parts coped with granite. The south aisle 
 is crowned with granite battlements, and a bold 
 moulding underneath of the same material, and 
 the mull ions of the windows on that side of the 
 church are granite also. The windows in the 
 chancel are formed of red stone, and all the 
 others of freestone. The tower is a substantial 
 edifice evidently intended from its shape and 
 solidity, to have been surmounted with a spire, 
 but the summit is finished with a dwarf pointed 
 roof, covered with slate ; which contains six har- 
 monious bells.
 
 96 HISTORY OF 
 
 The whole of the external walls of the church 
 and tower were, until lately, covered with rough- 
 cast, which disfigured their beauty, and concealed 
 their architecture. Now, however, this unsightly 
 coating has been removed, the walls neatly point- 
 ed, and the venerable fabric is presented to the 
 spectator in its original purity. The church is 
 dedicated to St. Martin and St. Mary, and is 
 very ancient. No exact account of the date of 
 its erection exists. Dr. Oliver in his Ecclesiasti- 
 cal Antiquities states, that the first mention 
 of Chudleigh church as belonging to the See of 
 Exeter, " is in a deed of Bishop Bartholomew, 
 " ( between the years one thousand one hundred 
 " and sixty-one, and one thousand one hun- 
 " dred and eighty-four. ) This church also forms 
 " the subject of a deed of John, bishop of Exeter, 
 " ( between the years one thousand one hun- 
 " dred and eighty-six, and one thousand one 
 " hundred and ninety-one. ) The parish church 
 " under the patronage of St. Martin and St. 
 " Mary, though at various times since partially 
 " altered, was dedicated by Bishop Bronscombe,
 
 CHUDLEIGH. J>7 
 
 ** on the sixth of November, one thousand two 
 " hundred and fifty-nine." It consists of a nave, 
 chancel,* a south aisle supported by eight granite 
 pillars, and a north transept commonly called 
 Hunt's Aisle. It measures in length one hun- 
 dred and ten feet, and fifty-six at its greatest 
 breadth. Many of the old pews were for a 
 considerable number of years in a dilapidated 
 state, and formed a most unsightly assemblage 
 of irregular unseemly boxes of various heights, 
 inclinations, and dimensions ; containing with the 
 galleries accommodation for six hundred and 
 forty-eight persons, and the condition of the 
 
 * There is an entry in the parish records, " paid for taking 
 down the altar stone," in the year 15G3. — "paid for making 
 of the timber -work about the newe commandements," in 1578 ; 
 and also " paid (he paynter for making of the X. commande- 
 ments " : it further appeareth that the functionaries were 
 very slow in executing the commands issued by the Lord 
 Bishop, for they were cited to appear in court in 1579, by 
 the following item, " paid for that defaulte was found for 
 lack of the Tenne Commandements and other things in the 
 church; — paid charges of appearing before the Lord Bishop 
 in visitation ; — paid the sumler (summer) that assyted (cited) 
 us to appear ; — paid charges when we brought in our answers 
 at the visitation; — paid Ifees of the court." 
 
 K
 
 98 HISTORY OF 
 
 interior was any thing but creditable to the 
 parishioners. 
 
 In the year one thousand eight hundred and 
 forty-three, however, they were fully awakened 
 to the necessity of rendering the house of God, 
 more convenient and more in accordance with its 
 high and holy purposes, and proceeded to the 
 goodly work with energy and zeal. Eight hun- 
 dred pounds was borrowed of the public works 
 commissioners, on a mortgage of tbe rates, to 
 which the dissenters of all denominations liberally 
 consented, and the subscription lists soon swelled 
 to a considerable amount, and the total outlay on 
 the works has reached near one thousand seven 
 hundred pounds ; and tbe church in lieu of being 
 a reproach to the parish, is now one of the most 
 beautiful in the diocess. It has been newly 
 pewed throughout, the galleries have been rebuilt, 
 the fine old screen restored, and the chancel and 
 its fittings entirely remodelled. The principal 
 entrance to tbe church was originally on the 
 north side, tbis has been blocked up, and by the 
 uniform arrangement of the pews, the sittings
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 99 
 
 have been increased to seven hundred and fifty- 
 three, of which two hundred and fifty are free 
 and unappropriated. 
 
 The chief entrance to the church is now by a 
 handsome gothic archway in the tower. The 
 first object that strikes the spectator on entering 
 the building, is the splendid east window of 
 stained glass. This beautiful ornament of the 
 church was placed there at the sole cost of John 
 Williams, esquire, as a memorial to his esteemed 
 friend the late Rev. Gilbert Burrington, for fifty- 
 five years the vicar of the parish. It is of the 
 decorated style of English Architecture, and 
 consists of five lights. The centre represents our 
 Saviour crowned, beneath which is the cruci- 
 fixion ; on the right are the figures of St. Peter, 
 and St. Paul ; above whom in medallions are 
 representations of the Nativity, and our Lord's 
 Baptism, and under them The Agony in the Gar- 
 den, and Christ bearing his Cross : on the left 
 side are figures of St. James, and St. John ; 
 above are medallions uniform with the right side, 
 descriptive of our Saviour washing his disciples
 
 100 HISTORY OF 
 
 feet, and the Last Supper, and beneath them the 
 Resurrection, and the Ascension : in the upper 
 corner on the right is a figure of St. Martin, 
 dividing his cloak with a beggar ; and on the left 
 the iigure of the Virgin Mary, who are as before 
 stated, the patron saints of the church : the head 
 of the window is filled with devices, emblematic 
 of the Trinity, and Crucifixion, and at the base is 
 the following inscription ; " In honorem Dei et 
 " in piam memoriam Gilberti Burrington lv. an- 
 " nos hujus parochia? Vicarii dedicat Johannes 
 " Williams, anno sacro mdcccxlvii. " 
 
 The east end of the southern aisle* has lately 
 been adorned by an elegant stained window, 
 representing the Transfiguration. It contains 
 three lights ; the centre having the figure of our 
 Saviour ; the right that of Moses ; the left that 
 
 * In the south aisle stood formerly the altar of the Virgin 
 Mary, before which Thomas Taylor, a canon of Crediton 
 church, desired by his last will and testament to be buried. 
 Fur the use of the said altar he bequeathed a silver chalice. 
 The will, proved the fifteenth of December, one thousand 
 four hundred and fifty-two, may be seen in Bishop Lacy's 
 register.
 
 CHUDLE1GII. 101 
 
 of Elias ; and on the base the figures of Peter, 
 James, and John, are vividly portrayed. This 
 beautiful addition to the church, was made by 
 Admiral Sir David Dunn, in memory of the late 
 Lady Dunn, whose estimable qualities were 
 appreciated by all who knew her. The following 
 is the inscription : " in pious memory of Louisa 
 Henrietta Dunn, died a.d. mdcccxlix." 
 
 The principal contributors to the restoration 
 of the. church, were Mrs. Parker, Mr. Parker, 
 Mr. Williams, Mr. Yarde, the Rev. W. H. Palk 
 the vicar, and the Rev. Chas. M. Edward Collins. 
 The monuments in the church deserving notice 
 are but few. That erected to the memory of 
 James Eastchurch in the south aisle, and that to 
 Sir Pierce Courtenay and his lady in the chancel, 
 are the most striking, and are more fully described 
 hereafter. The former has been recently restored 
 to its original condition ; but the latter still needs 
 the hand of the skilful artificer. In the north 
 aisle there is an old portrait belonging to one of 
 the Hunt family, it bears date one thousand six 
 hundred and one, it has been lately restored at the
 
 102 HISTORY OF 
 
 expense of Mr. Parker. This aisle was probably 
 appropriated to the Hunts, from their first resi- 
 dence in the parish, and still retains their name. 
 In removing some of the old pews from the 
 screen, some curious paintings were discovered, 
 twenty in number, representing the apostles and 
 prophets, each having a Latin inscription, ( the 
 English translation is added for the general 
 reader) in the following order : — 
 
 1. Petrus. Credo in Deum Patrem omnipoten- 
 
 tem Creatorem coeli et terra 3 . 
 
 Peter. I believe in God the Father Almighty, Creator 
 of heaven and earth ; 
 
 2. Jeremias. Patrem invocabitis qui fecit coelum 
 
 et terram. 
 
 Jeremiah. Ye shall call me my Father who made heaven 
 and earth. 
 
 3. Andreas. Et in Jesum Christum Filium ejus 
 
 unicum Dominum nostrum. 
 
 Andrew. Aad in Jesus Christ, his only Son our Lord, 
 
 4. Paulus. Deus dixit ad me filius meus es tu 
 
 ego hodie genui te. 
 
 Paul. God has said unto me thou art my Son this day 
 have I begotten thee.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 103 
 
 5. Jacobus Major. Qui conceptus est de Spiritu 
 
 Sancto natus ex Maria Vir- 
 gine. 
 
 James the elder. Who was conceived by the Holy- 
 Ghost, born of the Virgin Mary, 
 
 6. Ysaias. Ecce Virgo concipiet et pariet 
 
 filium. 
 
 Isaiah. Behold a Virgin shall conceive and bear a Son. 
 
 7. Johnes Evangl. Passus sub Poutio Pilato 
 
 crucifixus mortuus et se- 
 pultus. 
 
 John the Evangelist. He suffered under Pontius Pilate, 
 ■was crucified dead and buried. 
 
 8. Zacharias. Aspicient illi eum qui crucifixe- 
 
 runt. 
 
 Zechariah. They shall look on Him whom they have 
 crucified. 
 
 9. Thomas. Descendit ad inferos tertia die re- 
 
 surget. 
 
 Thomas. He descended into hell, and the third day 
 he shall rise again. 
 
 10. Oseas. O mors ero mors tua morsus tuus ero 
 
 inferus. 
 
 Hosea. O death I will be thy plague, O grave I will be 
 thy destruction.
 
 104 HISTORY OF 
 
 11. Jacobus. Ascendit ad coelos sedet ad dexter- 
 
 am Patris. 
 
 Jacob. He hath ascended into heaven and sitteth at 
 the right hand of God. 
 
 12. Amos. Qui adaedificat in coelo ascensionem 
 
 suam. 
 
 Amos. Who builds his ascent in heaven. 
 
 13. Philipp. Inde venturus est judicare vivos et 
 
 mortuos. 
 
 Philip. Who shall judge the quick and dead. 
 
 14. Malachii. Ascendam ad vos in judicio et ero 
 
 vobis iesus. 
 
 Malachi. / will come to you in judgment and be a 
 Saviour to you. 
 
 15. Bartholomeus. Credo in spiritura sanctum. 
 
 Bartholomew. I believe in the Holy Ghost. 
 
 16. Joel. Effundam de spiritu meo super omnem 
 
 carnem. 
 Joel. I will pour out my spirit upon all flesh. 
 
 17. Mattheus. Sanctam ecclesiam catholicam sanc- 
 
 torum communionem. 
 
 Matthew. The holy catholic church, the communion of 
 saints. 
 
 18. Sophonias. Invocabunt eum omnes et servent 
 
 ei. 
 
 Zephaniah. They shall call upon and shall serve him.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 105 
 
 19. Simon. Remissionem peccatorum. 
 
 Simon. The remission of sins. 
 
 20. Mychias. Deponet dominus omnes iniquita- 
 
 tes vestras. 
 
 Micah. The Lord shall take away all your iniquities. 
 
 The screen without doubt anciently extended 
 across the south aisle, and within there was an 
 altar, as can be seen by referring to the note in 
 page 100. By the removal of this part of the 
 screen, the creed is not finished, it would how- 
 ever be so by the addition of two panels, and thus 
 the words : — 
 
 " Carnis resurrectionem " 
 
 Resurrection of the body, 
 
 " Vitam aeternam. Amen." 
 
 And the life everlasting. Amen. 
 
 would render it complete. 
 
 " On the north-side of the chancel, the before 
 mentioned monument to Sir Pierce Courtenay, is 
 " ornamented with pilasters, coats of arms, &c. 
 " On the top are the arms of the Courtenay 
 " family, with a crescent for difference, impaling 
 " those of Shilston. Above the pilaster, on the
 
 106 HISTORY OF 
 
 " right side, are the arms of Clifford, with a 
 
 " crescent charged with a mullet, impaling those of 
 
 " Staplehill. Above the left pilaster are the 
 
 " arms of Clifford, with a crescent charged with a 
 
 " mullet, signifying that he was the third son of 
 
 " the second house. Below the centre coat 
 
 " of arms is the following inscription : 
 
 "S: r Pierce Courtnay mailed Elizabeth y e daughter of 
 " Robert Shilston, who 1«ed issue vn children. Carew, Ed- 
 " ward, and James, sonns ; also daughters Katharine, mar 
 " to Kempthorn ; Dorothy, mar. to Cowlinge ; Anne, ma' to 
 "Clifford; and Joan, maried to Tremayne. " 
 
 Then follows a Greek inscription, signifying 
 
 that this monument was erected by Thomas 
 
 Clifford, in memory of his ancestors. 
 
 Below the Greek : 
 
 " Ecclus. 4. Strive for the truth unto death, and defend 
 " justice for thy life, and the Lord God shall fighte for thee." 
 
 " Beneath this inscription is the figure of a 
 
 " man in armour, in a kneeling posture at a desk, 
 
 " with a book open before him. Over his head 
 
 " are the arms of Courtenay painted on the wall." 
 
 " Psal. 112. She hath distributed, and given to the poore, 
 " her righteousness remaynetk for ever." 
 
 " Beneath this inscription is a figure of a wo-
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 107 
 
 " man in a kneeling posture at a desk, with a 
 " book open before her. Over her head are the 
 " arms of Shilston painted on the wall. Beneath, 
 " on an altar-stone, is the following inscription ; 
 
 " Here lieth the body of S: r Pierce Courtney, knight, 
 " sonne to S. r Wil: m Courtney of Powdra, knight, who died 
 " Ano: Do: 1552, May 20, and also the body of Dame 
 " Elizabeth his wife, sole daughter and heire to Robert Shil- 
 ' ston of Bridstowe, esquire, who died the 8 th of No: Ano: 
 " Do: 1605." 
 
 Other tablets and ancient floor-stones, are in 
 the chancel, but these we leave, to describe 
 another conspicuous monument in the south-aisle, 
 to the " memory of James Eastchurch," before 
 referred to : " his effigies as low as the waist, 
 " are fixed in a niche in the wall.* He is repre- 
 " sented in the act of praying, a velvet cushion 
 " before him ; his hair straightly combed on his 
 " forehead, a single curl round his neck and a 
 " large ruff; a black gown, full at the sleeves, 
 
 * In the wall where this monument is fixed, there are the 
 remains of the stone steps that led to the rood-loft ; the por- 
 tion of the screen that is deficient, was no doubt taken down 
 when it was removed.
 
 108 HISTORY OF 
 
 " and a crimson waistcoat. Under is the follow- 
 
 " ing inscription : 
 
 " Memoriae sacrum Jacobi Eastchurch parva corporis 
 minore animi, imbecillitate, 85 feliciter complevit annos qui 
 prolem liabuit tres Alios, Richardu Henr & Rober. Ut autem 
 inter Angelos feliciorem agat .... apud Prasdium suum 
 Lawell C° D . . . . Decemb. A° D 1 1631, libenf ob . . 
 
 " Blest pilgrime Eastchurch, long thou'st travell'd, and 
 
 At length with joy attain'd the Holy Land. 
 
 Thou'st left this militant and ta'en thy way 
 
 To Heaven's triumphant church to live for aye ; 
 
 ( As thy forefathers did ) rest thou with them 
 
 For ever in the New Jerusalem." 
 
 On a black marble below : 
 
 " Secus hoc marmor recumbit corpus Jacobi Eastchurch de 
 Lawell generosi die x Decembris sepultum Anno Domini, 
 1662." 
 
 " Also Shilston the wife of James Eastechurch, gent., 
 daughter of the Right Reverend & Worshipfull Thomas 
 Clifford, doctor in divinitie, was buried the first day of 
 March, 1685." 
 
 In the rural districts of England and Wales, 
 churchyards have ever claimed attention, and ever 
 have been objects of great interest, and some- 
 times they contain the sole memorial of families 
 long extinct. Few, if any, possess a site more
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 109 
 
 beautiful than ours : occupying as it does the 
 south-western extremity of the eminence on which 
 the town stands ; it is considerably elevated 
 above the road, and with the church and tower, 
 presents a pleasing and conspicuous object. The 
 trees that adorn the yard are of long standing and 
 noble growth, upon them the rooks annually build 
 their nests, their monotonous cawing well harmo- 
 nises with the solemnity of the place. The fresh 
 breezes that play over the green sward, and 
 the picturesque views it commands, strikingly 
 contrast with the confined burial places of our 
 crowded cities. Some of the old inhabitants re- 
 member the ancient lich gateway, through which 
 the yard was formerly entered, as well as ano- 
 ther entrance by a steep flight of steps imme- 
 diately opposite the tower. There were also 
 before the fire three old cottages built on the 
 church-yard wall, their windows overlooking the 
 yard, and thus destroying its calm and seclusive 
 aspect. The present iron gates and handsome 
 stone pillars are in good taste, and well accord 
 with the recent alterations and improvements of
 
 110 HISTORY OF 
 
 the church. The boundary walls and ancient tomb- 
 stones were lately re-erected and repaired, the un- 
 even surface of the ground levelled and the paths 
 newly arranged. The expenses of these various 
 improvements were considerable, and were defray- 
 ed by the benevolence of two liberal contributors 
 to the principal charities of the town, independent 
 of the sums raised for the repairs of the church. 
 
 From the external of the grave-yard, the mind 
 involuntarily turns to death, which so intimately 
 concerns us all. It is a theme on which poets 
 and moralists have expatiated in strains of ten- 
 derness, and to it the preacher alludes in words 
 of deep pathos and earnest admonition. Here the 
 great equaliser reigns, and around us are the 
 graves over which sorrowing relatives come and 
 weep. It is a scene which solemnly impresses 
 all, whether they confess it or not. Here the 
 pinions of the gay droop — the uplifted head of the 
 proud is lowered — the grasp of the covetous, and 
 the strong hold of the avaricious are loosened — 
 the energy that rivets our fond affections to earth 
 is checked — the tide of life recedes — the prize 
 
 n
 
 CHUDLEIGH. Ill 
 
 becomes a blank — here tbe oppressed beholds a 
 tyrant that conquers the oppressor — here the poor 
 become rich if heirs of heaven, and without a 
 hope beyond the grave the rich are poor indeed — 
 mere bankrupts in the prospect of eternity. 
 " Here too the spirit is urged forward through 
 the valley and shadow of death, and from the dark 
 empire of the grave, onward to the everlasting 
 future." Though thus stern be the aspect of 
 death and the grave, yet to the enlightened eyes 
 of the christian they are vanquished. The dust 
 of countless generations are here held, but in a 
 moment the trumpet shall sound and the dead 
 shall be raised " incorruptible." 
 
 The tomb-stones are numerous, but the limits 
 of this work will only admit of our giving two or 
 three of the most striking ; as a whole, they teach 
 the oft repeated lesson, that no age is exempl 
 from death, his trophies are the young and robust, 
 as well as the old and iufirm, " who so artful as 
 to put it by." On the first grave-stone that 
 claims attention, Robert Woolcombe is said to 
 have been vicar of this parish sixty-three years.
 
 11*2 HISTORY OF 
 
 He was instituted in the year one thousand six 
 hundred, and died one thousand six hundred and 
 fifty-four. This contradiction can be explained 
 by it being known that he laboured as a curate to 
 his father Benedict, and the whole of his ministry 
 was here included. 
 
 " Here lyeth the body of Robert Woolcombe, vicar of this 
 " church threescore and three years, who died the 19th day 
 " of January, 1654. And here resteth under hope of resur- 
 " rection to eternal life." 
 
 The first three lines of the following poetical ef- 
 fusion, were the production of two aspiring natives 
 who were lost in their grand object, the praises of 
 the departed, when they attempted a description 
 of Haldon, however, a third came to their rescue, 
 and the last two lines gave a finished composition. 
 
 " Sacred to the memory of the Rev. Ambrose Wilkins, 
 " who departed this life the 15th day of May, 1774, in the 
 " 85th year of his age. Master of the Grammar-school in 
 " this parish." 
 
 " The dreary wild, the dreadful storm 
 To him were trifling cares ; 
 
 Who did endure, 
 
 Serv'd Ashcombe cure * 
 
 For more than 50 years." 
 
 * It may be curious to some of our readers to remark, the 
 singularity of the above epitaph in honor of this old " gymna- 
 siarch," so styled by Dr. Fraser Halle ; it becomes doubly 
 interesting when we call to mind that our present vicar whose
 
 CHUDLEIGH. t - 
 
 The inscription to John Tothill on the south 
 
 side of the church-yard, is a touching composition. 
 
 It is from the pen of Mr. Matthews, a solicitor 
 
 of this place. Mr. Tothill was a self taught 
 
 philosopher, astronomer, and mathematician of 
 
 no ordinary merit, although his talents led to no 
 
 important results, yet they were highly esteemed, 
 
 and his virtues were long cherished by a large 
 
 circle of friends and relatives. 
 
 " Sacred to the memory of John Tothill, son of Nicholas 
 " and Ann Tothill of this parish, who died the 24th day of 
 "July 1760." 
 
 "Strangers or Friends, if learn'dor good, draw near, 
 
 For such as you this tomb demands a tear : 
 
 For lo ! the dust inclosed was once endued 
 
 With every talent to be wise and good. 
 
 Learn'd, tho' untaught, in all that schools cou'd teach, 
 
 That judgment could improve, or genius reach : 
 
 Yet knew no pride, a soul above disguise, 
 
 That nothing wish'd to be but good and wise : 
 
 He liv'd a blessing on mankind bestow'd, 
 
 And died at last an offering fit for God ! " 
 
 The advowson of the parish of Chudleigh is in 
 the gift of the parishioners, who purchased it of 
 
 residence is at Ashcombe, has the same journey to perform ; 
 we cannot but rejoice that although the wilds of Haldon are 
 alike dreary, yet "dreadful storms" have no longer to be 
 encountered, the winters having become more like the mild 
 close of autumn than the deep snowy seasons of past ages.
 
 114 HISTORY OF 
 
 John Hunt of Hams Barton, on the nineteenth 
 of April, one thousand six hundred and eighty- 
 three, for the sum of one hundred and sixty 
 pounds, ( to be ) taken from the parish chest. By 
 a deed bearing the same date, the benefice was 
 conveyed to certain persons in trust or confidence, 
 requiring them to give on two several sabbaths, 
 within four months after the avoidance of the 
 vicarage, notice for a meeting of the parishioners 
 holding lands rated at five pounds per annum. 
 At this meeting it was further ordered, that the 
 majority should choose and nominate their future 
 Vicar. Accordingly the first election took place 
 on the tenth of February, one thousand six hun- 
 dred and eighty-eight, when Nicholas Battersby, 
 as will be seen by the subjoined list of vicars, 
 ( taken from Dr. Oliver's Ecclesiastical History ) 
 was chosen and nominated. 
 
 The living of Chudleigh is valued at five hun- 
 dred and fifty pounds per annum, when therefore 
 ( in times like the present ) a vacancy occurs by 
 the death, or removal of the vicars of Chudleigh, 
 and advertisements give publicity to the fact, it
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 116 
 
 brings into the field a host of candidates. These 
 have each an opportunity of preaching on the 
 several sabbaths, during the period of four months 
 prior to the election. Their testimonials are also 
 laid before the voters and the town at large, for 
 their careful perusal. Chudleigh is thus in posses- 
 sion of a privilege, enjoyed but by few episcopal 
 congregations in England, and which gives the 
 parishioners ( unless they unguardedly promise 
 their votes ) first, perfect freedom in the choice of 
 their minister ; secondly, a great number to 
 choose from. The judicious exercise of religious 
 liberty, without any local influence whatever, 
 was evidently the grand object that our pious 
 ancestors contemplated and provided for, when 
 they made a considerable effort to purchase and 
 place, at the entire disposal of the landed rate- 
 payers, the advowson of the vicarage. The real 
 value of what Chudleigh thus possesses, can 
 perhaps be better estimated and understood, by a 
 careful examination of the important religious 
 movement that took place in Scotland, in the 
 year one thousand eight hundred and forty-three.
 
 116 HISTORY OF 
 
 The present trustees are Lord Exmoutb, Sir 
 Lawrence Palk, Major General Taylor, Mr. Par- 
 ker, Major Fortescue, and Mr. Burrington. 
 
 The following is the list of Vicars before re- 
 ferred to : — 
 
 Nicholas is the first name that I have met with : and I believe 
 is the Vicar who bequeathed in 1303, to the Fabric of 
 Exeter Cathedral vis. viiic?. 
 
 John Fitz Hugh occurs Vicar the 29th of September, 1317. 
 
 Nicholas Coffin, instituted the 20th of June, 1337. 
 
 Thomas de Marston, the 23rd of March, 1348. 
 
 Thomas Walsh : he exchanged for Axminster with 
 
 Richard de Hatheleseye, 23rd of March, 1352. 
 
 Philip Bossayon, instituted the 14th of July, 1353 : he also 
 exchanged for the Vicarage of Dunsford, with 
 
 Robert Brugge, 28th of March, 1387. 
 
 John Basyngham de Melton : he exchanged for Lup- 
 
 pit with 
 
 Vincent Hille, the 22nd of January, 1402. This Vicar 
 resigning, 
 
 Ralph Colle succeeded, the 13th of January, 1422. 
 N.B. Colle exchanged for Lustleigh with 
 
 John Burleigh, the 21st of November, 1428. 
 
 Michael occurs Vicar the 14th of February, 1449. 
 
 Stephen Colyn . on whose death 
 
 Edward Stephynson followed the 16th of October, 1499. 
 N.B. He exchanged for a Prebend in St. Probus' Corn- 
 wall, with 
 
 Edward Carr, (alias George) the 23rd of July, 1505 
 
 Robert Weston ; on whose resignation
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 117 
 
 Ralph Holland, instituted the 18th of September, 1508. 
 Stephen Vernay, on Holland's resignation, the 27th of June, 
 
 1516. 
 William Leveson, 
 
 N.B. King Henry VIII. in his Writ to Bishop Veysey, 
 dated the 20th of July, 1536, required of his Lordship, 
 under a Penalty of £500, a return of the value of all 
 Ecclesiastical preferments in the Diocese of Exeter, with 
 the names of every Incumbent, from the 1st of January, 
 
 1535, the said Valuation to be delivered in the Court of 
 Chancery under the Episcopal Seal, by 3rd of November, 
 
 1536. In this Valuation I read 
 
 " Vicaria de Chudlegh, ubi Willelmus Leveson 
 est Vicarius, valet £xxi. 
 John Blaxton succeeded on Leveson's resignation. 
 George Chudlcigh collated the 27th of August, 1541 : he was 
 
 made a Canon of Exeter Cathedral, the 9th of March, 
 
 1546. 
 
 John More, 1559. 
 
 Benedict Woolcombe the 16th of January, 1571. His will 
 
 dated the 4th of October, 1599, was proved the 25th of 
 
 January following. (Patroness, Christina Chudleigh.) 
 Robert Woolcombe, son of Benedict, the 18th of January, 
 
 1600, Patrons hac vice William Putt, James and Thomas 
 
 Eastchurch. This Vicar died on the 19th of January, 1654. 
 Stephen Bloy, May the 10th, 1658 : on whose death, 
 Edward Isorthmore succeeded the 30th of December, 1673, 
 
 Patron John Hunt, Gent. Mr. Northmore died the 2nd 
 
 of October, 1687. 
 Nicholas Battersby, the 10th of February, following, on the 
 
 presentation of John Coysh, John Cholwich, Giles 
 
 Inglett, Christopher Hellier, John Langley, and James 
 
 Iiennell, Trustees of the Advowson.
 
 118 HISTORY OF 
 
 John Ellis, on Battersby's death, admitted the 4th of January, 
 
 1689. Presented by 6 Trustees : ob. 2nd of March, 1709, 
 
 set, G3. 
 Nicholas Tripe, admitted the 30th of June, 1710. Patrons 
 
 as before. 
 John Sergeant, admitted on Tripe's death, the 16th October, 
 
 1718. 
 Jo/m Bayly, admitted on Sergeant's death, the 12th of June, 
 
 1 736. Patrons as before. 
 William Staplin, admitted on Bayly's death, 10th of Septem- 
 ber, 1751. Patrons as before. 
 Gilbert Burrington, admitted on Staplin's death, 12th of 
 
 June, 1752. Patrons as before. 
 
 This worthy Vicar died 23rd of February, 1785, set. 63. 
 Gilbert Burrington, admitted on his father's death, 28th of 
 
 June, 1785. Patrons as before. 
 WUmot Henry Palk, admitted on Burringlon's death, 24th 
 
 of June, 1841. Presented by the Trustees. 
 
 The Presbyterian Chapel was founded in the 
 year one thousand seven hundred and ten. There 
 were formerly connected with it some of the most 
 wealthy and influential inhabitants of the parish ; 
 one of these, Mr. Causley of Ranscombe, endow- 
 ed it with twenty pounds per annum which is still 
 paid out of some land purchased by the late Lord 
 Clifford, subject to this annual payment. The 
 last of the Presbyterian ministers was the Rev. 
 B. Peckford, a learned man and profound Hebrew
 
 CHUDLElGIf. 119 
 
 scholar. After the fire the chapel was for some 
 years, without a settled minister, being difficult to 
 obtain one from among the Presbyterians, it was 
 thought advisable to apply to Mr. Wilson, a 
 wealthy patron of the Independent academy at 
 Hoxton, he accordingly sent a popular preacher, 
 the Rev. James Davison. On his resignation a 
 succession of the same denomination continuing 
 to serve this church, it was finally changed from 
 Presbyterian to Independent. In the year one 
 thousand eight hundred and thirty, this chapel 
 was rebuilt on a larger scale, under the direction 
 of the Rev. J. Allen* the present minister and 
 with consent of the trustees; it will seat about 
 three hundred and fifty. There have at different 
 periods been added a vestry, schoolrooms, and 
 burying ground : there is also belonging to it, a 
 Sunday school, ( the first established in the town,) 
 a girls day school, and vestry library. It con- 
 tains a fine and powerful organ, the gift of the 
 
 * The Kcv. J. Allen is the author of the Daily Monitor, 
 and Daily Companion in two vols., which have passed through 
 several editions.
 
 120 HISTORY OF 
 
 late benevolent Mrs. Davison, to whose memory 
 
 and her excellent partner, there is on the north 
 
 wall a neat tablet, as also near the pulpit another 
 
 to Mr. Petherick and grandson ; the inscriptions 
 
 are as follows : 
 
 " Beneath are deposited the mortal remains of James Davi- 
 " son, Minister of the gospel in this place ; who departed this 
 " life to be with Christ, August 5th, 1841. Also of Eliza- 
 " beth, his wife, who fell asleep in Jesus, March 6th, 1847." 
 
 " Peace be within this sacred place, 
 
 And joy a constant guest ! 
 With holy gifts and heavenly grace, 
 
 Be her attendants blest." 
 
 " In this chapel are deposited the mortal remains of John 
 " Petherick, who died the 12th of June, 1836, aged 55 years. 
 " Also John P. Allen, grandson of the above, ob. 17th Jan., 
 " 1834. ML 5 years & 6 mo." 
 
 "Cease, friendship, cease to weep ! 
 
 God takes but what he gives ; 
 And while the relics sleep, 
 
 The immortal spirit lives. 
 Mourner retire, and kiss the afflictive rod, 
 
 To thee their exit calls, 
 ' Prepare to meet thy God.' " 
 
 The Wesleyan Cbapel, situated in Mill Lane, 
 was built in the year one thousand eight hundred 
 and thirty-seven. It belongs to the Teignmouth 
 circuit and is regularly supplied by the ministers
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 121 
 
 and local preachers on the Conference plan. The 
 scriptural doctrines and form of church govern- 
 ment of the Wesleyan Methodists are well known. 
 Brookfield Chapel ; or, the United Christian 
 Church of the Baptist persuasion, was erected 
 near this town in the year one thousand eight 
 hundred and fifty, by the generous efforts of 
 W. Rouse, Esq. " It is a neat and commodious 
 building and presents a substantial and plain 
 elevation, the interior is marked by the same 
 regard to simplicity and comfort, the pulpit is a 
 model of neatness, constructed as also the seats 
 of a kind of wood lately introduced into this 
 country from New Zealand." There belongs to 
 it a large and flourishing sabbath-school. The 
 burying ground adjoins the chapel. The baptistery 
 is at the residence of W. Rouse, Esq., who fills 
 the pastoral office to this church. Boys, girls, 
 and infant day-schools, are supported by the 
 same generous individual ; their duties being 
 sustained by trained superintendents on the 
 " British System," under the able inspection 
 of Mrs. Rouse.
 
 122 HISTORY OF 
 
 The various gifts to the poor which when 
 bestowed were considerable, are from the relative 
 value of money and other causes at present but of 
 trifling consideration. The parish lands and 
 tenements have been leased out on long terms, 
 and are scarcely worth enumerating. * We also 
 find in the report of the Commissioners, that there 
 were many charities once belonging to the parish, 
 under the head of " Lost Gifts." Of the annual 
 annuities, the following are the principal. 
 
 By Sir John Acland in bread, fifty-two shil- 
 lings. It is not bestowed weekly according to 
 the donor's direction, but is given together with 
 Clarke's gift every quarter, when a baker is 
 directed to furnish forty sixpenny loaves. The 
 tickets for the disposal of this bread are at the 
 discretion of the churchwardens. The distribu- 
 tion at the Easter quarter, is greater by four 
 loaves, in order to exhaust the whole sum of 
 four pounds two shillings. Clarke's gift is paid 
 
 * The whole amount raised from parish lands ( markets ex- 
 cepted ) is £10 13s. 8d. per annum. When the present leases 
 have expired, they will return about £80, according to the 
 calculation of the Commissioners.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 123 
 
 out of two closes of land called Reeve Oaks, and 
 Veversham, in the parish of Trusham. 
 
 Soper's gift pays forty shillings per annum out 
 of houses near the church, which the parish 
 leased out on a long term of years. This gift 
 was to be laid out in the purchase of linen cloth 
 for shirting, which was ordered to be given away 
 by tbe churchwardens, " to such poor labourers 
 of the parish as have poor families, each indi- 
 vidual receiving sufficient to make a shirt ; when 
 the report of tbe charities was published, the 
 churchwardens were enabled to supply ten poor 
 labourers annually." 
 
 William Stidson, esquire, who died the thir- 
 teenth of April, one thousand eigbt hundred and 
 eighteen, gave one hundred pounds to the poor 
 of tbe parish for ever, the interest four pounds 
 per annum, to be laid out half-yearly in bread at 
 tbe discretion of the churchwardens, for the use 
 and benefit of the poor and industrious not 
 receiving alms. 
 
 Stephen Bloy by will bearing date the eleventh 
 of June, one thousand six hundred and seventy-
 
 1*24 HISTORY OF 
 
 two, gave to the poor of the parish of Chudleigh, 
 twenty-five pounds to remain as a stock ; the 
 interest of which being yearly thirty shillings, 
 one half to be distributed to such persons as 
 should be in sickness ; preferring the most 
 religious and sober, as well as had no relief from 
 tbe parish ; to be given in sums not exceeding 
 three shillings to any in one or the same sickness. 
 The other half was to be distributed to poor 
 passengers and travellers in distress. This gift 
 of Stephen Bloy was included in a sum of one 
 hundred and forty pounds, with which the old 
 workhouse was purchased by the parish of 
 Nicholas Stuckie of Ashcombe, in the year one 
 thousand six hundred and seventy-five. 
 
 The workhouse was rebuilt by the parish (as 
 before stated ), and finally repurchased by Mr. 
 Williams,* subject to this annuity of thirty shil- 
 
 * This building has been converted into a National school, 
 and contains spacious boys, girls, and infant school-rooms, 
 with a committee room, and accommodation for the residence 
 of the female teacher. The alteration was made at the sole 
 expense of Mr. Williams, who keeps the entire building in 
 repair, and presents it to the school committee free from any 
 expense whatever. Such liberality needs no comment.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 125 
 
 lings per annum. It is necessary while on the 
 charities to correct an error made by the writer 
 in the preceding ancient history referring to the 
 fairs and markets. The different amounts men- 
 tioned in the parish records, were paid to Hunt 
 on account of Thomas Bridges, as the following 
 short extract will show. " By indenture bearing 
 " date the first of May, one thousand five hundred 
 " and ninety-seven, between Thomas Bridges on 
 " one part and Henry Clifford and twenty-two, 
 " on the other part ; for the consideration of one 
 " hundred and fifty pounds : the market and fairs 
 " as also a sporting or playing place then esti- 
 " mated at three acres, should ever remain for 
 " the use of the said parish." 
 
 Among the charities enumerated by the Com- 
 missioners, we find the church-house, the upper 
 part of which has for centuries been used as a 
 parish school-room. It is the most ancient 
 educational building in the town, and is men- 
 tioned in a deed bearing date one thousand five 
 hundred ninety-seven, where it is included with 
 other parish lands held in trust. The masters
 
 126 HISTORY OF 
 
 have of late years been elected at a general vestry 
 meeting, and are permitted to occupy the pre- 
 mises rent free, as also the sexton who resides 
 under the same roof. The first notice concerning 
 this school in the parochial register, refers to the 
 year one thousand six hundred and five, and again 
 in one thousand six hundred and fifty-seven, 
 when " the seven men " and the parishioners at a 
 meeting held for the purpose, took into consider- 
 ation " the great want of an able paynful school 
 " master and agreed with one Mr. Pollexfen to 
 " come to keepe school here, in Chudleigh. 
 " They promised to give him thirteen pounds six 
 "' shillings and eightpence for the first year, and 
 " to repayer the school-house and chamber 
 " adjoining in convenyent manner." Mr. Pollex- 
 fen on his part promised to be very careful and 
 diligent in teaching those scholars, which should 
 be sent to him, and for the consideration afore- 
 said, to " teach and instruct in the best manner 
 " he could, six poor men's children of the psh. ; 
 " such as the seven or any five of them should 
 " appoint." The masters of late years have in 
 addition to the day-school admitted boarders.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 127 
 
 At the time that Mr. Bond filled the important 
 office, this school became one of the best of the 
 description in the county. He was a clever and 
 practical arithmetician and good astronomer for 
 his day ; he had a most pleasing method of 
 imparting knowledge ; his mild and amiable 
 temper greatly endeared him to his numerous 
 pupils, many of whom were in after life distin- 
 guished for their abilities in their various call- 
 ings, ever recollecting their youthful sojourn 
 here with much delight. To Mr. Bond is the 
 town indebted for the erection of several com- 
 modious and respectable houses. Mr. George 
 Flood, the present estimable master of the school, 
 teaches nine children who are appointed by the 
 minister and churchwardens, in reading, writing, 
 and arithmetic, under Eastchurch's gift, which 
 after deducting the land tax, amounts to four 
 pounds twelve shillings and sixpence per annum. 
 This gift is paid out of Chatteshall or Catshole, 
 now the property of Sir Lawrence Palk. The will 
 of Richard Eastchurch the donor of this charity, 
 bears date the fourteenth of March, one thousand
 
 128 HISTORY OF 
 
 six hundred and ninety-two. One half of this 
 yearly hequest, was to have been expended in 
 bibles and good books, and the other half to such 
 person or persons, as should diligently teach four 
 poor children to read and write. Of late years 
 it has been thought advisable to devote the whole 
 to education. 
 
 The Free Grammar School is the principal 
 charity of the town, and was founded by John 
 Pynsent, esquire, who was born and educated in 
 Chudleigh. On a tablet in front of the old 
 school-house is the following inscription, " John 
 Pynsent, of Lincolns Inn, esquire, born in this 
 parish, hath erected this for a Free School, and 
 endowed it with thirty pounds per annum for 
 ever, one thousand six hundred and sixty-eight." 
 In consideration of eight pounds paid to " the 
 seven men," an acre of ground taken from the 
 Play-park was conveyed to him, and he agreed 
 with them, " at his costs, to build a house 
 thereupon for keeping a school, and for the habi- 
 tation of a master, and to enclose the rest of the 
 ground with a wall, for a garden and orchard."
 
 CHIDLETGH. 129 
 
 Mr. Pynsent died on the twenty-ninth of August, 
 one thousand six hundred and sixty-eight, before 
 the school-house was completed, and although he 
 left sufficient property to defray all legacies and 
 charitable bequests, yet so backward were his 
 Executors in fulfilling the requirements of 
 his will, that an application in consequence was 
 made to the court of chancery, and after a full 
 investigation of the affair, it was decreed, that the 
 school-house should be completed, a master ap- 
 pointed, and a salary of thirty pounds per annum 
 be paid to him half yearly, free from all deduc- 
 tions, out of his estate at Combe, in the parish of 
 Croydon, Surry. The school was to be free for 
 the inhabitants of Chudleigh, and to be called, 
 " Pynsent's Free School." Sir Thomas Clifford 
 was one of the trustees then appointed. Their 
 full number being eleven. The majority have the 
 power to elect a master. Mr. Pynsent directed 
 that the schoolmaster should be of good name, 
 manners and teaching, and conformable to the 
 doctrines and discipline of the Church of England. 
 For a short time after the death of the founder,
 
 130 HISTORY OF 
 
 some exhibitions appear to have been attached to 
 tbe school. According to the Commissioners 
 account of tins charity ; he gave an hundred 
 pounds for apprenticing twenty poor children of 
 Croydon aod Chudleigh, and to each of them that 
 could read, a bible, also to five poor boys of 
 Chudleigh, three pounds each yearly, for five 
 years, towards buying books and clothes, and to 
 be taught at the "Free School" in Chudleigh ; 
 but he directed that this exhibition should cease 
 to such of the said boys, as should not diligently 
 attend their schooling, and frequent the church 
 every Lord's day ; and to three of the said boys 
 that should be thought fit for the university, he 
 gave five pounds each, for four years, for their 
 maintenance at the University of Cambridge. 
 
 It does not appear that there was any fund 
 granted for the continuance of these exhibitions, 
 nor any regulations for the future appointment of 
 more boys, to succeed the three chosen by his 
 executors. Had Mr. Pynsent lived, there is 
 every reason to suppose, that this "Free School" 
 would have been made by him a superior establish-
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 131 
 
 ment. From the salary being left in money 
 instead of land, it has not augmented. The entire 
 cessation of the exhibitions was doubtless also a 
 great disadvantage to the prosperity of the foun- 
 dation and the advancement of the pupils, by 
 depriving them of that emulation which when 
 once aroused, impels the ardour of youth onward, 
 through the by no means royal road to the ac- 
 quirement of knowledge, however, no such induce- 
 ment can now be held out, and the original 
 intentions of the founder in reference to his 
 native place, do not appear to have met with the 
 success he intended, for comparatively few of 
 the children of the town or parish are educated 
 in this " Free Grammar School." However, as 
 a classical boarding school, it has at different 
 periods attained considerable celebrity ; it is at 
 present in high repute, having steadily increased 
 after the election of the Rev. C. M. Edward Col- 
 lins to the mastership, on whose resignation two 
 years since, it was presented to the Rev. George 
 .Moyle, and is still advancing in the estimation of 
 the public.
 
 132 HISTORY OF 
 
 Among the many excellent clergymen, who 
 have from time to time been elected to fill the 
 situation of head master to this school, ( as a 
 native of the town ) we would notice the Rev. 
 William Pulling, who however filled the impor- 
 tant office hut for a short period, preferring his 
 literary circle of friends in the University of 
 Cambridge, where he has distinguished himself 
 as a linguist of no ordinary merit. His lectures 
 on the derivation and classification of the various 
 modern languages, were highly approved of by 
 men of eminence in that important branch of 
 learning. Mr. Pulling published a translation 
 of sermons from the Danish, and is the author of 
 a volume of Sonnets, dedicated to the Duke 
 of Wellington, he is now the rector of Dym- 
 church, Kent, where he resides. 
 
 Invalids will find in Chudleigh a variety of 
 excellent accommodation, in the way of lodgings 
 and houses. The Clifford Arms for many years 
 ( prior to the opening of the South Devon Rail- 
 way ) kept by Mr. Petherick in the best possible 
 style, is still open and occupied by its proprietor,
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 133 
 
 Mrs. Cartwright ; here families can obtain board 
 and lodging on a large scale, as the apartments 
 belonging to this spacious house are most com- 
 modious and convenient. 
 
 There are also many excellent shops of every 
 description, which are well stocked with goods; 
 thus enabling tbe inhabitants and visitors to 
 obtain an immediate supply of all they may 
 require. 
 
 The Chudleigh Literary Society, instituted in 
 the year one thousand eight hundred and forty- 
 eight, has in connection with it, a Reading-Room 
 well supplied with daily and other papers, and an 
 increasing Library. Lectures on different sub- 
 jects are delivered by the members of the society, 
 as well as by others who are occasionally engaged 
 for the general benefit of the town. 
 
 N
 
 134 HISTORY OF 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 HE extensive domain of Ugbrooke, 
 as it regards its own exquisite 
 scenery, and the prominent part 
 it takes in that of Chudleigh, 
 deserves a pen far better skilled in the art of 
 description than the writer's. It is situated 
 about a mile east of the town, and occupies in 
 conjunction with some well cultivated farms, a 
 vale of considerable extent. The Park itself 
 covers an area of six hundred acres, and is 
 stocked with about the same number of Deer. 
 Enclosed on all sides, save one ( towards the 
 South Hams, ) by its own richly clothed eminen- 
 ces, it takes no aid from surrounding prospects, 
 until the heights that thus encircle it are as- 
 cended ; the rural and varied charms which
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 135 
 
 distinguish it are therefore its own. Ugbrooke 
 before possessed by the present noble family, was 
 no doubt in a comparatively rude and uncultivated 
 state, with every capability by its mild tempera- 
 ture and peculiar undulations, of rising under the 
 plasticlc hand of man, into a region of calm 
 seclusion not to be easily surpassed. The stream 
 from which its name was derived, is no longer 
 characteristic of the Saxon wog broca, " crooked 
 brook," as by expansion, it altogether conceals its 
 rude and winding channel, and now forms three 
 small lakes. These are altogether free from 
 symmetrical formality, too often the accompani- 
 ment of such artificial adornments, on the con- 
 trary they are here truly beautiful. The first 
 adjoins the Ashwell gate, now one of the principal 
 approaches to the house, it has been considerably 
 enlarged and improved by the present Baron, lying 
 beneath a high and thickly wooded bank, the 
 mansion is completely hidden though so near. 
 This expanse of water with its rustic boat house, 
 has a wild and seclusive aspect, and leaves the 
 mind unprepared for the many different attrac-
 
 J 36 HISTORY OF 
 
 lions that cluster round the one always desig- 
 nated the pond, which is skirted on the east by 
 the lovely and verdant lawn on which the 
 house stands, beyond, are eminences gently 
 rising, adorned with trees of great beauty. On 
 the west are presented to the view, undulations of 
 more abrupt and varied character, which unite 
 with the woody heights that form the boundary, 
 that separates the Park from the Chudleigh vale. 
 The banks that immediately skirt the pond, are 
 planted with white and red hawthorn interspersed 
 with chestnuts and other trees, that overhang and 
 dip their graceful branches into its placid surface. 
 This placidity is only comparative, from the 
 current through the vale, it is generally agitated 
 by a gentle ripple that gives a pleasing animation 
 to the scene. Visitors are accommodated with a 
 seat under a noble oak at the edge of the water, 
 this vividly reflects the house, library and chapel, 
 thus giving a double image of their unpretend- 
 ing beauty. The features of this landscape are 
 peculiarly harmonious and sylvan, and cannot 
 but h'il the mind with the calm enjoyment such
 
 CHUDLE1G1I. 137 
 
 scenes are calculated to inspire. Within a few- 
 paces of this seat on the right, there rises a mass 
 of lime rock with an old quarry and kiln concealed 
 by trees, and fringed by the forked roots of others 
 partly laid bare by the excavations beneath : these 
 still flourish in leafy verdure with each returning 
 spring. Beneath this rock wells up a spring of 
 water clear as crystal, called Pit Well, which 
 after flowing on calmly a little way, dashes over 
 a bank were some stones are placed, so as to form 
 a cascade. Immediately below is the third and 
 last expanse of water, called the lower pond, this 
 like the first is rude and sequestered, at its termi- 
 nation a decoy has been made for wild fowl ; the 
 Uses: here resumes its natural and diminished 
 course, and flowing a little below the hamlet of 
 Gappah, at a distance of about two miles, is lost 
 in the Teign. Belonging to this Park, are nume- 
 rous roads, skirting the water or winding through 
 the extensive plantations of limes, chestnuts, and 
 a rich variety of flowering shrubs. 
 
 On the Newton turnpike road is situated the 
 grand triple avenue. In the height of summer it
 
 138 HISTORY OF 
 
 uprears its gothic arches of grateful shade, re- 
 pelling every ray of the sun's fierce heat. This 
 avenue is constituted triple by presenting as 
 entered through a handsome gateway, two side 
 avenues, that run parallel with the Newton road. 
 In addition to the rock already described, there 
 are other masses jutting up amid the trees, these 
 are adorned with Howers and festooned with the 
 wild bramble and ivy, beautifully contrasting with 
 the smooth and verdant pastures around. The 
 perfection to which this park has arrived, has 
 been the gradual development in the luxuriant 
 growth of timber or forest trees ; they are of all 
 descriptions and worthy more than a passing 
 notice, if the limits of this sketch did not forbid 
 their being particularized ; some of them are im- 
 mense, being the growth of centuries. Prince 
 who lived in the time of the second Baron, men- 
 tions his planting chestnuts and other trees exten- 
 sively. The grand masses of oaks, and groups of 
 beech, are of still more ancient growth, and may 
 be considered as indigenous, although time has 
 worn out the strength of many, they are still
 
 CHUDLETGH. 139 
 
 beautiful in old age and decay. The woods says 
 Polwhele, " sweep wildly round, pursuing the 
 " course of the valley, presenting the finest 
 " features of extensive lawn, smooth and verdant," 
 between groups of trees, others again appear : 
 " The same object assumes a different aspect by a 
 " successive change of view. " On the high 
 ground towards Chudleigh, is the Danish cir- 
 cular encampment before mentioned, it is formed 
 by a deep trench, in some places double ; the trees 
 with which it has from time to time been planted, 
 must have tended greatly to its preservation. 
 The walk through the encampment on the brow of 
 the hill, is rich in prospect ; on the one hand, the 
 iinest features of the park, noble eminences " with 
 their magnificent masses of shadow " ; on the 
 other, the Chudleigh vale with its cheerful town, 
 noble rock, and all the attractions that encircle it. 
 This landscape cannot be well surpassed. The 
 park on the southern extremity, is closed in by 
 thick plantations of fine trees. The vale termi- 
 nates in a barren tract of country, called the 
 sands, which with about fifteen acres of the
 
 140 HISTORY OF 
 
 park, are in the adjoining parish of Kingsteignton. 
 
 After the death of the Lord Treasurer, in one 
 thousand six hundred and seventy-three, the 
 family secluded themselves at Ugbrooke, far away 
 from the stormy arena of politics ; the Test Act 
 having severed them from offices and emoluments. 
 Unless when called to the battle field for their 
 country's good. The extension and adornment of 
 this their noble park, claimed their constant and 
 undivided attention. Several of the representa- 
 tives of this family possessed enthusiasm in a 
 religion, distinguished by a sensitive attention to 
 the effect of externals on the mind, they were 
 also evidently close observers as well as warm 
 admirers of nature. 
 
 Roman Catholics however vast their undertak- 
 ings in buildings, or the laying out of parks, or 
 gardens, seldom err or do violence to the simple 
 but little understood element of refined taste. 
 The embellishments of Ugbrooke are in perfect 
 accordance with nature, its various undulations 
 are clothed as they should be, to form an endless, 
 variety, and the variety, a grand whole.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 141 
 
 A grove in the Park towards the Newton road, 
 known as Dryden's walk, is pointed out as having 
 been a favourite resort of this great man, on his 
 visits to the Lord Treasurer, his friend and 
 patron. One year only was the difference in 
 the respective ages of these extraordinary public 
 characters. They were also alike tossed about, 
 by the fierce and uncertain political and religious 
 events of the period in which they lived. After 
 the death of the Lord Treasurer, a warm friend- 
 ship arose between the Poet and Hugh, the 
 second Baron, the youthful son of his lamented 
 friend. Dryden's visits to Ugbrooke appear to 
 have been continued to the end of his days, and 
 if tradition be correct, he there completed his 
 translation of Virgil. His many solitary pa- 
 cings to and fro beneath the deep shade of the 
 beechen groves, united to the wild and romantic 
 scenery which the Park then presented, could not 
 but have been favourable to those flights of imagi- 
 nation, and have also tended to kindle those 
 poetic raptures, the force and harmony of which 
 have been seldom equalled. The subject of the
 
 142 HISTORY OF 
 
 Eclogues, was also somewhat in accordance with 
 the rural character of all around. 
 
 The dedication to Dryden's translation of the 
 Pastorals, (of which a short extract is given) 
 was addressed to Lord Clifford ; it is a specimen 
 of the laudatory style of such compositions in an 
 age when, poetic genius, that has never been 
 surpassed, had to obtain by flattery the patronage 
 of the great. The praise here bestowed, was 
 doubtless sincere and well merited, and can 
 therefore be read with pleasure. 
 
 " My Lord, I know to whom I dedicate : and 
 " could not have been induced by any motive, to 
 " put this part of Virgil, or any other into un- 
 " learned hands. You have read him with 
 " pleasure, and I daresay with admiration, in the 
 " Latin, of which you are a master. You have 
 " added to your natural endowments, which, 
 " without flattery, are eminent, the superstruc- 
 " tures of study, and the knowledge of good 
 " authors. Courage, probity, and humanity are 
 " inherent in you. These virtues have ever been 
 " habitual to the ancient house of Cumberland, 
 " from whence, you are descended."
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 143 
 
 And again, as though the poet felt keenly his 
 noble friend's separation by the Test Act, from a 
 life of political importance and activity, he adds, 
 " rural recreations abroad, and books at home, 
 " are the innocent pleasures of a man who is 
 " early wise ; and gives fortune no more hold of 
 " him, than of necessity he must. It is good, on 
 " some occasions, to think beforehand as little as 
 " we can ; to enjoy as much of the present as will 
 " not endanger our futurity, and to provide our- 
 " selves with the virtuoso's saddle, which will be 
 " sure to amble, when the world is upon the 
 " hardest trot." 
 
 Before bringing the description of the park to 
 a close, we may remark that the ponds are well 
 stocked with fine Carp, Dace, Perch, Pike, Eel 
 and Trout. The Rabbit warrens contain an 
 unlimited number of these little animals, and 
 tbey afford no small amusement to the visitors, 
 as they are seen on the approach of footsteps, 
 darting to their countless holes : while the herds 
 of Deer if disturbed, bound across the emi- 
 nences, or dash through the water with swiftness,
 
 144 HISTORY OF 
 
 elegance and grace, that must greatly delight 
 the beholder. 
 
 Having described the Park, we next proceed 
 to give some account of the house, as also a few 
 particulars relative to the succession of the 
 different Barons, as given by Dr. Oliver in his 
 Cliffordiana. The house when occupied by the 
 Precentors before the Reformation, was doubtless 
 a dull and inconvenient abode, * for we read of no 
 important improvements effected on it, until the 
 time of the Lord Treasurer, when besides the 
 chapel, he began the erection of a new mansion, 
 leaving two thousand pounds at his death for its 
 completion. The peerage and estates came to his 
 eldest surviving son Hugh, in his tenth year. 
 He possessed the title fifty-seven years and well 
 supported the character of a benevolent hospitable 
 and patriotic English nobleman. The Park and 
 its plantations claimed his principal attention. 
 He married in the year one thousand six hundred 
 
 * Not only did Dr. Clifford as before stated, reside at 
 Bramble, but the Colonel also ; this old residence has been 
 burnt down.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 145 
 
 eighty-five, Ami, the daughter of Sir Thomas 
 Preston, of Furness, in the eounty of Lancashire, 
 Bart. This lady brought him considerable pro- 
 perty in Warwickshire, Derbyshire, Lancashire 
 and Westmoreland. By her he had issue nine 
 sons and six daughters. 
 
 The third Baron of Chudleigh was the seventh 
 son. He married Elizabeth Blount, who brought 
 him a fortune of four thousand pounds paid at the 
 marriage, and two thousand pounds more on 
 the decease of her mother. His father was 
 violently opposed to this marriage, but may have 
 altered his opinion, when he saw the Duke of 
 Norfolk united to her sister. During the short 
 period that he possessed the peerage, nothing 
 memorable is recorded of him. He died in the 
 year one thousand seven hundred and thirty-two. 
 
 Hugh, fourth Baron, was born Michaelmas day 
 one thousand seven hundred and twenty-six. 
 He married Lady Ann Lee, fifth daughter of 
 (George Henry Lee, second Earl of Lichfield, by 
 whom he had eight children. To this nobleman 
 his family indebted, for the erection of thi 
 o
 
 14G HISTORY OF 
 
 present house. The former mansion projected by 
 the Lord Treasurer, was by all accounts, a long 
 straggling and inconvenient habitation. After 
 mature consideration, as to whether he was able 
 to complete the building, without injury to his 
 fortune and family, he began the work by pulling 
 down a part of the old house, about the year one 
 thousand seven hundred and sixty. The fabric 
 gradually advanced under the direction of the 
 celebrated Adam. By a judicious system of 
 economy, he was prepared at the end of a few 
 years, to remove into a comfortable and well 
 proportioned dwelling. His principle was " pay 
 as you go," he was firmly convinced, that nothing 
 can be honorable, that is not strictly just. Of all 
 men, he was the most punctual, in acting up to 
 the full extent of every obligation. Reverenced, 
 honored and beloved, he died peaceably in the 
 arms of his family, in the year one thousand 
 seven hundred and eighty-three, recommending 
 to them with his last breath, concord and mutual 
 affection. 
 
 In Hugh, the fifth Lord, were combined
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 147 
 
 extraordinary beauty of person, and fascinating 
 urbanity of manners. In one thousand seven 
 hundred and eighty, he married Appollonia, 
 daughter and co-heiress of Marmaduke, the fifth 
 Lord Langdale, but left no issue. After a long 
 and lingering illness, he expired in the bloom of 
 life in the year one thousand seven hundred and 
 ninety-three. 
 
 Charles, sixth Lord .Clifford, was born in 
 Jermyn-street, London, on the twenty-eighth of 
 November, one thousand seven hundred and fifty- 
 nine, and was educated partly in the Colleges of 
 Donay, St. Omer's, Bruges and Liege. He 
 married the daughter of Henry, the eighth Lord 
 Arundell, by whom he had a large family. He 
 succeeded to the title and estates, the fifteenth of 
 January, one thousand seven hundred and ninety- 
 three ; he was distinguished by his warm patron- 
 age of the Arts, and every thing connected with 
 literature and philosophy, as also by the pro- 
 minent part he took in the county business, and 
 also in the training of the volunteers, which was 
 considered an important and useful work daring
 
 148 HISTORY OF 
 
 the long war. His services were highly appre- 
 ciated, and fully portrayed on a piece of plate 
 presented to his lordship in the year one thousand 
 eight hundred and two, by the commanding 
 officers of the Yeomanry and Volunteer Corps. 
 
 The present Lord Hugh Charles, was born 
 one thousand seven hundred and ninety, and 
 married Mary Lucy Weld, only daughter of 
 Cardinal Weld of Lulworth, he succeeded to the 
 title in the year one thousand eight hundred and 
 thirty-one. Lord Clifford has issue, six sons 
 and two daughters. Six only survive. Lady 
 Clifford died at Rome, the fifteenth of May, in 
 the year one thousand eight hundred and thirty- 
 one, where she was interred. 
 
 Ugbrooke House is an extensive modern 
 structure, distinguished by great simplicity ; 
 quadrangular in form, with four turrets, and the 
 whole finished with battlements. There is how- 
 ever one deviation from this form, which is a 
 distinct wing, composed of the library and chapel, 
 in a line with which there are ( in the back area ) 
 a few remnants of the old house, a striking con-
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 149 
 
 trast with the present mansion. Though the site 
 of the house may appear low when compared with 
 the neighbouring elevations, yet in reality, it com- 
 mands fine views of the splendid scenery around, 
 and is situated very dry and pleasant. The 
 annexed list of paintings, with their respective 
 positions, will convey some general idea of the 
 principal suite of apartments, which are remark- 
 able for their simple elegance and comfort. The 
 library may be considered one of the most 
 delightful rooms in the building, and has an 
 internal communication with the chapel which (as 
 before stated) was built by the Lord Treasurer, 
 and though improved at different periods, it was 
 left for the present Baron to add considerably to 
 its size and adornment ; all these improvements 
 have been conceived and executed in good taste : 
 as a whole it presents a solemn and hallowed 
 simplicity in this age of church decoration, and no 
 description can convey an adequate idea of its 
 beauty. The form of the building is oblong, and 
 lighted from windows situated in the vaulted roof. 
 In the centre is suspended a lamp, which as in
 
 150 HISTORY OF 
 
 other Catholic chapels is always kept burning : 
 here amid the light of day it sheds a clear and 
 extraordinary radiance, which arises from the 
 position of the windows. The altar piece to which 
 are attached the usual decorations, is very hand- 
 some ; it occupies the upper end of the chapel, 
 which is semi-circular ; the walls of the sanctuary 
 are cased with polished marble, and in its centre 
 is a painting representing the resurrection. On 
 either side there are marble niches, containing 
 full length statues of Joseph, and Mary. The 
 pulpit occupies a recess in the wall, and can be 
 wound out and in at pleasure. Opposite is a 
 similar seat, perhaps intended for a bishop or 
 other dignitary. There are two side galleries 
 facing each other, one contains a fine organ of 
 powerful tone; the other gallery or tribune is 
 occasionally used by visitors, and have their 
 fronts decorated with " basso-relievos." The 
 subjects they represent are Adam and Eve driven 
 out of Paradise ; the shepherds worshipping in the 
 stable at Bethlehem ; Christ at his daily occupa- 
 tion ; and the angels attending Christ. The
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 151 
 
 tribune at the end for the accommodation of the 
 family, in which are several busts, communicates 
 with the library. The body of the chapel is 
 furnished with seats, that reach from the aisle 
 under the side galleries. In addition to the main 
 entrance to the chapel from the park, there are 
 many others communicating with the pleasure 
 garden and premises, thus rendering it accessible 
 to the family in every direction. The mural 
 tablets that were in the chapel to the memory of 
 the Lord Treasurer, and the fourth Baron, have 
 been removed, but are to be replaced. 
 
 The baptismal-font, which is of marble, occu- 
 pies an extremely small and quite a distinct 
 apartment. The walls of which are covered with 
 polished calcarious spar, from Chudleigh Rock, 
 Pieces of sculpture representing the baptism of 
 Christ, and an angel with a child stand in an 
 elevated position, between which and the font, 
 are vases filled with artificial flowers. Under- 
 neath the chapel is the burying place of the 
 family ; this is a neat arched apartment with a 
 chequered marble floor, and contains a fine
 
 152 HISTORY OF 
 
 piece of statuary, " the three women at the foot 
 
 of the cross," in front of which are two cande- 
 
 labras, that when lighted shew the tablets around, 
 
 on which are various inscriptions ; the most 
 
 conspicuous is one erected by the present Lord, 
 
 to the memory of his two infant children. 
 
 The pleasure gardens adjoining the house, are. 
 
 spacious and kept in excellent order ; they are 
 
 filled with choice trees, shrubs, flowers and 
 
 fountains. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE PICTURES. 
 
 Ferdinand II. Grand Duke of Tuscany, and an intimate 
 friend of the Lord Treasurer Clifford, was, I believe, the 
 donor of the choicest pictures in the Ugbrooke collection. 
 Formerly this collection was much more considerable than at 
 present : aboxit thirty perished in the flames which consumed 
 Mr. Anderson's premises in Covent Garden, London. Many 
 of these I take to have been the Hunting Pieces mentioned by 
 Evelyn in his memoirs, p. 438, vol. 1. " 18th Aug. 1673, My 
 " Lord Clifford being about this time returned from Tunbridge, 
 " and preparing for Devonshire, I went to take my leave of 
 "him at Wallingford House; he was packing up pictures, 
 " most of which were hunting wild beasts, and vast pieces of 
 "bull-baiting, bear-baiting, &c, &c." 
 
 HALL. 
 
 1. Charles, 6th Lord Clifford, in the uniform of the 
 Yeomanry. Ramsey.
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 153 
 
 2 & 3. Colonel Taylor and J. Beaumont Sivete, Esq. also 
 in uniform. Ramsey. 
 
 4. Lord Ebrington now Earl Fortescue. Ramsey. 
 
 5. Sir Thomas Ackland. Ramsey. 
 
 6. Huyh Charles, the present Lord Clifford. Ramsey. 
 
 DINING-ROOM. 
 
 1. Sir Thomas Clifford (afterwards Lord Treasurer) as 
 Comptroller of King Charles the Second's Household. This 
 eminent Statesman died at Ugbrooke 17th Oct. 1673, 0. S. 
 and was buried two days after in his chapel vault. The 
 picture must have been painted about the year 1G67, by Sir 
 Peter Lely. N. B. Sir P. Lely died in 1680, aged 63. 
 
 2. A Farm Yard near Antwerp. The painter's name 
 "John Sibericks 1661," is legible on the cart. This great 
 Flemish painter died in 1703, aged 78. In the Journals of the 
 Lords, 20th March, 1679 we read, " Ordered that John 
 Siberchts, a Dutchman and Limner of Pictures, who, being a 
 papist, ought to remove out of the cities of London and 
 Westminster, may have liberty to stay in town for some time 
 for the recovery of some debts owing to him, before his 
 removal out of this kingdom." N. 13. Six months were 
 allowed him. 
 
 3. Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of William Martyn, 
 of Lindiidgc, esq., and wife of the above-mentioned Sir Thos. 
 Clifford. Her Ladyship died at Ugbrooke 21st Sept. 1709, 
 and lies in the chapel vault near her husband. — Painter Sir 
 Peter Lely. 
 
 1. Catharine of Portugal, married to K. Charles II. in 
 May 1662. She remained in England about 30 years, and 
 returning to Lisbon, died there 31st Dec. 1705, aged 67. Sir 
 P. Lely has given her the characteristic emblems of St. 
 Catharine of Alexandria, the wheel and palm.
 
 154 HISTORY OF 
 
 5. James, Duke of York, afterwards K. James II. This 
 unfortunate Prince and Sovereign died at St. Germaine, near 
 Paris, 16th Sept. 1701, aged 68. Sir P. Lely. 
 
 6. Her R. H. Anne, Duchess of York, and 1st wife of 
 James above-mentioned. She was daughter to Edw. Hyde, 
 Earl of Clarendon. Dying March 31, 1671, aged 34, her 
 Highness was interred in Westminster Abbey. Sir P. Lely. 
 
 7. K. Charles II. in his State Robes. Died Feb. 6, 1685, 
 aged 55. Sir P. Lely. 
 
 8. Hugh, 2nd. Lord Clifford, Baron of Chudleigh, in a 
 Court Dress. 
 
 9. Fruit and Fish Piece. On the rim of the Table we 
 read " /. B. Schonier 1628." 
 
 10. Thomas, eldest Son of the Lord Treasurer Clifford. 
 He died at Florence March 29, 1671, aged 19, and his 
 remains were brought over in an English frigate, and deposit- 
 ed in the Ugbrooke vault July 28 that year. Sir P. Lely. 
 
 DRAWING-ROOM. 
 
 1. Rev. Thomas Clifford, D. D., Grandfather of the Lord 
 Treasurer. Cornelius Jansens. 
 
 2. The Woman taken in Adultery, 8th chapter of St. John. 
 Titian, died 1576, aged 99. 
 
 3. St. Mary of Egypt, an illustrious penitent of the 5th 
 century. By Titian also. 
 
 4. Virgin and Child. Rubens. This great Painter died 
 at Antwerp in 1640, aged 63. 
 
 5. Christ blessing little Children. Mark, 10 ch. 16 v. 
 The inscription is "Peter Fan Lint, 1643." 
 
 6. Christ presented by Pilate to the Multitude. John, 19 
 ch. 5 v. A coarse specimen of the low Dutch School.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 155 
 
 7. St. Mary Magdalene. Guido Rheni : he died at Bo- 
 logna 1642, aged 67. 
 
 8. Tribute Money. 24th ch. Mat. Sir Anthony Vandyke, 
 •who died in London 1641, aged 42. 
 
 9. Holy Family, by Gentileschi. Died 1647, aged 84. 
 For an account of this Picture see p. 247 of Pilkington's 
 " Lives of Painters." 
 
 10. Lord Treasurer Clifford in his Study. Sir P. Lely. 
 
 ANTI-ROOM. 
 
 1 . Valley of Ice in Switzerland. By Francis Towne, of 
 London. Died July 17, 1816, aged 76, and buried in Heavi- 
 tree Church. 
 
 2. Hugh, bth Lord Clifford, who died at Munich, Jan. 15, 
 1793, aged 37. By Downman, 1780. 
 
 3 & 4. Highly finished Drawings by Payne, in 1802. 
 
 5. The late Lady Clifford and her Sister ( Mother to 
 the late Lord Arundell ) when children. 
 
 6. Hugh, 4th Lord Clifford, who died Sept. 1, 1783, aged 
 57. Downman 1781. 
 
 7. Tivoli and Metcllus' Tomb, by Ducroc. 
 
 8. Appollonia, hth Lady Clifford. Died Dec. 31, 1815, 
 aged 60, and lies at Hazlewood. Downman. 
 
 SECOND DRAWING ROOM. 
 
 1. Over the fire-place, Anne, Uh Lady Clifford, and 
 Mother to the late Charles Lord Clifford. Miss Rcid. 
 
 2. Chudleigh Lime Rock, by Varley. 1810. 
 
 3. A Drawing by Prout. 
 
 4. View of the Simplon, by Nicholson. 
 
 5. View of Snoudon, by Varley.
 
 156 HISTORY OF 
 
 STATE BED-ROOM. 
 
 This Miracle of Art was finished from the designs and 
 under the direction of Mary ( Blount ) who married Edward, 
 9th Duke of Norfolk, on 6th Nov. 1727. Her Grace intended 
 it as a present for her Nephew Edward Howard, but on his 
 untimely death, she gave it to her other Nephew, Hugh, the 
 4th Lord Clifford. This bed is beautifully described in the 
 Poem of Ugbrooke Park. A considerable part of the bed was 
 destroyed in the dreadful fire at Worksop Manor, in Oct. 
 1761. The damage on that occasion was estimated at 
 £ 100,000. See the Gents. Mag. for that year pp. 477—531. 
 
 Over the fire-place in the Library is a Picture after Van- 
 dyke, of most of K. Charles the First's Children, viz. Charles 
 II., James II., Henry Duke of Gloucester, as an infant, who 
 died Sept. 13, 1660, aged 20, Mary, who married William 
 Prince of Orange, and Elizabeth, who died in Prison Sep. 8. 
 1650. 
 
 BILLIARD-ROOM. 
 
 Six Pictures by Peter Roestrate, a Dutch Painter, who 
 died in London 1698, aged 71, viz. An Old Man Smoking 
 and his Wife spinning, A couple feasting on Oysters, A Cooler 
 whistling at his work, A Surgeon coolly dressing the Leg of a 
 Peasant writhing in pain, A Woman holding a Pluck, a Lady 
 at her Toilette. 
 
 Two noble Views of Chudleigh Rock, by W. Tomkins, in 
 1779. Died 1792, aged 62. 
 
 Two of Ugbrooke Park, by Towne before mentioned. 
 
 Over the chimney-piece, A favourite Dog. 
 
 Anne Clifford, Countess of Dorset and Pembroke, taken in 
 1670, aged 80. She is placed between her parents, George 
 the 3rd Earl of Cumberland, and Margaret ( Russell. ) 
 
 An Engagement with Banditti.
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 157 
 
 In the Gallery between the Library and Billiard-Room, is 
 a portrait of Hugh, the 4th Lord Clifford, by Keenan, and of 
 the late Lord, by Pickersgill. 
 
 In a Sitting-room, there are a variety of family portraits ; 
 among these, the most striking is that of the Duchess of Nor- 
 folk. A Mastiff -wounded by a thorn in his foot, painted 
 by Schniders or Sneyders, the friend of Rubens ; also in the 
 Staircase, Interior of the House of Lords at the passing of the 
 Catholic Emancipation bill. Ramsey.
 
 158 
 
 HISTORY OF 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 HE entrance of Chudleigh parish 
 from the Ashburton road is by a 
 bridge over the Teign, about a mile 
 from the town. Stokelake house 
 and grounds belonging to the parish of Hennock, 
 claim our notice from their immediate vicinity. 
 Stokelake has frequently changed owners : at the 
 commencement of the present century, it was 
 purchased of a Mr. Harper, by the Rev. W. F. 
 Bayley, who built the present house, which is a 
 pleasant villa, situated on the brow of a hill directly 
 above the bridge, and commands a fine view of the 
 rocks and woods on the opposite side. Stokelake 
 is now the property and residence of A. Chiches- 
 ter, esquire, one of our county magistrates, who 
 has greatly improved its grounds and adjoining
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 159 
 
 farm. The trees belonging to it form a striking 
 termination to the vale of Chudleigh, which here 
 unfolds itself in a scene of surpassing beauty. 
 
 Rocklands, an elegant villa, stands on an emi- 
 nence opposite the bridge, it was built in the 
 year one thousand eight hundred and thirty-nine, 
 by Captain Kerr, and purchased a few years 
 since by Admiral Sir David Dunn ; its planta- 
 tions that skirt the road a considerable way 
 towards Chudleigh are rising into great beauty. 
 
 Heightly Cottage lies on the right, embosomed 
 in trees the growth of centuries, among which 
 there is a fine specimen of the cedar of Lebanon ; 
 this cottage is surrounded by a garden-lawn, and 
 commands picturesque views of the rocks and 
 the Hiding Parks, which it adjoins. Before the 
 Reformation, it was included in the church lands, 
 but after becoming the inheritance of Eastchurch, 
 it was called the manor of Heightly, having 
 a residence more ancient than Lawell. This calm 
 and lovely retreat reverts to Lord Clifford on the 
 expiration of the present lease. 
 
 Lawell House is situated on the east, about
 
 1150 HISTORY OF 
 
 midway between the bridge and the town. In the 
 year one thousand seven hundred and twenty-two, 
 Sir James Sheppard, sergeant at law, purchased 
 this beautiful domain including the surrounding 
 property, of the executors of James Eastchurch : 
 and the father of the late Lord Clifford, the fourth 
 Baron, purchased the reversion of the same 
 after the death of Frances, widow of James 
 Sheppard, esquire, in the year one thousand seven 
 hundred and sixty-eight. Lawell House was at 
 one time the most beautiful mansion in the parish. 
 The sash windows were numerous and high, the 
 rooms lofty and convenient. The entrance hall 
 presented an elegant mahogany staircase, and the 
 dining-room was a superb apartment. It was 
 approached from the Plymouth road through a 
 noble avenue of trees. Though desolation has been 
 the fate of Lawell, three or four of these noble 
 elms are still standing, as if to mourn over (he 
 relic of former greatness. It is now a melancholy 
 object, every effort to deface this once handsome 
 residence has been successfully accomplished, what 
 remains is covered with ivy, when this plant is
 
 CHUDLEIGH. Itil 
 
 united with ruins on which time has laid his 
 hand, it not only preserves the tottering fabric, 
 but invests it with a double interest, here on the 
 contrary it gives a desolate and neglected appear- 
 ance to this once pleasant abode. 
 
 Chudleigh Rock, situated in Lawell Park, is 
 the southern extremity * of a stratum of mountain 
 limestone, for which our neighbourhood has been 
 long celebrated. The quarries are most ancient ; 
 their lime enriching its own and neighbouring pa- 
 rishes. The varieties of marble they afford, have 
 also been much in request for ornamental pur- 
 poses. That of Chudleigh Rock is principally 
 black, with large veins of white spar crossing it 
 in different directions, and has also a small golden 
 vein frequently running through it ; there is no 
 limestone harder or that burns to a whiter calx. 
 When this rock was united to the palace, the 
 verdant and beautiful summit was not disturbed ; 
 but of late years the excavations have been im- 
 mense, and so rapidly carried on as to leave a 
 mere shell in comparison to its original bulk. 
 
 * Southern extremity is only used here, as a relative term.
 
 162 HISTORY OF 
 
 Had not these lime works been abandoned, they 
 must have altogether destroyed this magnificent 
 rock, or have left it a mere wreck. It is however 
 satisfactory to every lover of nature, to know 
 that the more beautiful part of it will be 
 now preserved uninjured, to be still enjoyed. 
 Numerous views of it, and the surrounding 
 scenery, are to be met with in public as well 
 as private collections of paintings. A new 
 house has been recently built on the site of 
 the old lime-kiln, being a sad encroachment on 
 the romantic spot, and decidedly interfering 
 with its native grandeur. This far-famed rock is 
 spoken of by Polwhele as one of the most striking 
 of our island, he also thus graphically describes 
 its romantic dell, " from the south-east a hollow 
 opens to the view, with a stream rushing im- 
 petuously at the bottom of it, here and there 
 checked in its progress by a great quantity of 
 rude stones " ; this hollow we would add is a 
 deep recess or ravine, and evidently appears to 
 have been formed by some fearful convulsion of 
 nature, which rent these rocks asunder. The
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 163 
 
 opposite mass is called Black Rock, but instead of 
 frowning on each other, as they are sometimes 
 said to do in the figurative language of poetry,* 
 they here repose amid rich verdure, and agree to 
 heighten each others charms as they unfold the 
 treasures of their kindred masses, and guard the 
 entrance to the dell below. From the Plymouth 
 road, Chudleigh Rock presents a circular form 
 of grey unbroken marble of considerable bulk and 
 elevation, shrubs and variegated foliage hanging 
 from its summit and concealing its base. 
 
 This front has an indentation, each part round- 
 ed in a tower like form, and at the first glance, 
 conveying the idea of the remains of a grand 
 baronial castle. It is impossible adequately to 
 impart an idea of the many interesting objects 
 belonging to this romantic spot, it must be 
 explored to be rightly appreciated, visited and 
 revisited before its secret nooks, its caverns, its 
 hermit's chair and all its varied attractions become 
 
 * Even prose, " the stupendous tors of Dartmoor and 
 Haytor, frown on each other with sublime grandeur, above 
 the intervening vales." Moore.
 
 104 HISTORY OF 
 
 familiar. When on the summit, the landscape on 
 the north takes in Hahlon and Chudleigh, that 
 on the west embraces Canonteign, Hennock, and 
 Botter ; on the south, Hay tor towering in the 
 distance. In the more immediate neighbourhood, 
 there are villas, verdant meads, the Teign and 
 the Elizabethan Mansion of Pitt, with its Saxon 
 tower. A small battery on the point of the rock 
 that overlooks La well, was erected by James Shep- 
 pard, Esq., for the purpose of planting a few pieces 
 of ordnance, from which for his amusement he oc- 
 casionally fired salutes. Before disturbed by the 
 band of man, the summit of this rock was reached 
 by a continuous sward stretching from the 
 garden of the old Bishop's Palace, this path now 
 winds round the quarry. An opening on the left 
 when entered, presents a most lovely view ; 
 Black Rock is immediately opposite, covered with 
 hanging woods ; beneath, lies the deep ravine, 
 and at the northern extremity the animating 
 scene of the Palace quarry, which has of late been 
 extensively worked. There still remains a con- 
 siderable portion of the rock unbroken, and dull
 
 CHUDLETGH. 165 
 
 must be the mind that feels no glow of delight, no 
 rapt enjoyment while wandering on its summit. 
 Around are variety, beauty and extent, " above, 
 the canopy of the heavens, directing the spirit 
 ( thus concentrated ) from tbe visible to the 
 invisible." Beneath is spread a carpet soft and 
 verdant, springing out of and nourished by the 
 once living atoms of nature, commencing with 
 the lichen, then the moss, then the tiny seed 
 dropped by the bird, or wafted by the breeze, 
 adapted to the scanty soil, and when all is ma- 
 tured by nature's unerring process, there arise 
 the herb and flowering shrub, that adorn each 
 rocky nook, and massive ridge with vegetation. 
 And is it for man that these many wonders are 
 displayed ? it is, and man alone can " look from 
 nature up to nature's God." 
 
 " The glories of whose mind 
 
 Leave all our soaring thoughts behind." 
 
 An old writer quaintly but correctly observes, 
 on the subject of nature's many wonders, " whoso 
 " gazes through these with the eye of his soul, 
 " feels the littleness of man in the greatness of all 
 " around."
 
 166 HISTORY OF 
 
 The upper part of the grounds belonging to 
 Lawell known as the Riding Parks, lie east of 
 the dell and stretch towards the hamlet of 
 Gappah. These extensive glades are covered 
 with rich pasture, and an abundant variety of 
 wild flowers. The hanging woods that surround 
 them on all sides, beautifully harmonize with the 
 scenery of Ugbrooke Park, from which they are 
 separated by a terrace-like road, where splendid 
 views of the country towards the south ( already 
 described ) can be enjoyed, with the addition of 
 Chudleigh Rock, situated immediately below. 
 From these glades various paths wind through the 
 copse to the edge of the dell. Black Rock, before 
 named, is a point of pre-eminent beauty, and 
 assumes a turret-like form, hanging over the 
 ravine below, from which the deep murmur of the 
 stream steals on the ear : ridges of rock jutting 
 from beneath the short turf that covers its summit, 
 afford seats for the numbers who visit it during 
 the summer months ; and who have here the 
 privilege of enjoying one of the most magnificent 
 views in the kingdom.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 167 
 
 The Riding Parks terminate at a point called 
 Mount Pleasant, where there anciently stood an 
 Inn or resting place for travellers, and to which 
 tradition has always given a bad character, and 
 related concerning it many absurd tales of horror 
 and superstition. These appear to have had their 
 origin in mysterious deeds of darkness, which 
 received confirmation of their having been perpe- 
 trated, from the fact, that in a fissure belonging 
 to the adjoining Palace quarry, there were found 
 some years since several human skeletons. The 
 cavity in which they were deposited was thirty 
 feet below the surface, and to which there could 
 have been no access but from above ; though thus 
 hidden and private it was doubtless well known to 
 the rangers of these woods, and by them used as 
 a place of concealment. These skeletons were 
 probably those of wayfaring men or sailors on their 
 route to Plymouth, plundered and murdered at 
 the house before mentioned, while sleeping in 
 unconscious security. 
 
 The deep recess between Chudleigh and Black 
 Rock, with propriety styled a Dell, is about a
 
 168 HISTORY OF 
 
 quarter of a mile in length. The scene at the 
 Palace quarry where it commences, is highly 
 picturesque and animating ; the dell itself is one 
 of the most beautifully secluded and romantic 
 spots belonging to our vale. The thick woods 
 that enclose it on either side, extend to its very 
 depth, and are full of attractions, abounding with 
 wild flowers and having many labyrinth like paths 
 that conduct from one lovely scene to another : 
 although there are many different ways by which 
 the adventurous can reach the dell, yet the most 
 easy descent is by a path from the copse, adjoin- 
 ing the Riding Parks. The stream* as it forces 
 its way over the rugged channel, forms a cascade 
 not very considerable, unless after heavy rain, 
 but always a pleasing object, as seen between the 
 trees foaming and dashing over the huge stones. 
 The graceful branches of the hazel and other 
 trees, as they are flung across the stream, form a 
 striking contrast to the rude moss covered stones 
 that are variously grouped in their narrow chan- 
 nel. As a whole, it sets all description at de- 
 fiance, especially when the scene is illumined by
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 169 
 
 a meridian sun, which gives to it a golden hue 
 that can only he accounted for by the rays of 
 light penetrating the deep recess amongst the 
 trees, reflected by the sparkling and dashing 
 stream. The attractions of the dell may be judged 
 of from the fact, that through the months of 
 summer and autumn, artists are from day to day 
 employed amid its solitude, in endeavouring to 
 portray its striking and peculiar features. The 
 stream that Hows through the dell is called Kate- 
 brook, it rises on Haldon, its course is east of the 
 town, receiving in its progress the limpid springs of 
 AV addon. Above the town it is diverted from its na- 
 tural channel to work three successive flour mills. 
 Imagination pictures it on entering the dell, as 
 revelling in enjoyment at its restoration to liberty ; 
 however, it has again to be dammed up by a weir 
 to supply the Chudleigh Bridge Mill, when after 
 crossing the Newton road, it falls into the 
 Teign. 
 
 The Pixies Hole, as it is commonly called, 
 from its being the supposed habitation of a dimi- 
 nutive race of fairies, that are said to delight in 
 Q
 
 170 HISTORY OF 
 
 solitary places, such as pathless woods and 
 mountain streams. Dancing in a ring has always 
 been described as their chief amusement, and 
 they are also accused of playing off mischiev- 
 ous tricks on man and beast. The reader may 
 obtain from Mrs. Bray's " Legends of Devon," 
 further information concerning these tiny elves, 
 and the opinions entertained of them by the 
 peasantry of our rural districts. We would 
 simply suggest that our Pixies Hole, from its 
 magnitude and importance, may be considered 
 a kind of royal habitation of the Elfin King, and 
 his high court of sovereignty. The Chudleigh 
 Cavern is thus noticed by Risdon, " there is a 
 cave hereabouts, which creepeth far under the 
 ground, of which many marvellous matters are 
 spoken." 
 
 The entrance, almost concealed by trees, is 
 midway down the rock, and is reached by a steep 
 and irregular pathway ; it is arched and is ten 
 feet high, and twelve feet wide, with a passage, 
 the extreme length of which is a hundred and 
 thirty-five feet, terminating in a spacious cavity,
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 171 
 
 formed within the bowels of the rock. At the 
 distance of about sixty feet from tbe entrance, an 
 almost abrupt termination seemed till lately to 
 have presented itself, and it was with some 
 difficulty and in a creeping position that the 
 explorer could proceed further : however, this 
 inconvenience no longer exists, the hole being 
 considerably enlarged by the removal of the 
 alluvial soil which lay beneath a thick calcarious 
 incrustation, and the entire length of tins natural 
 tunnel can now be traversed in an erect position 
 till the large apartment just named is reached; 
 this is an irregularly shaped space, its length be- 
 ing thirty-nine feet, its greatest height about fifty 
 feet, and the breadth twelve feet, not cheered even 
 by a single ray of light ; fragments of rock lie 
 promiscuously scattered about, and great caution 
 must be used in passing between them, and it will 
 be thus seen that lights are absolutely necessary, 
 for tbe exploration of this noble cavern. From this 
 principal cavity another branches off, of greater 
 regularity and more vaulted appearance ; this 
 second passage is nine feet in breadth, eleven feet
 
 172 HISTORY OF 
 
 in height, and seventy-two feet in length ; and is 
 called the Pixies Parlour; * the bottom of which 
 is level ; on its left at the end of another passage, 
 a few rays of light are admitted through a fissure, 
 sufficiently large for an individual to pass, with 
 some little difficulty. At the end of the Pixies 
 Parlour, on the right, there is a passage-like 
 fissure about three feet wide, gradually narrow- 
 ing to about one foot to the length of thirty ; 
 further on through this narrow aperture some 
 individuals have passed and reached the opposite 
 
 * A Fete was held here on the 27th day of July, 1840, 
 in honour of the Honourable Mr. Clifford, who had at- 
 tained the age of maturity ; the splendid cavern was illumi- 
 nated by a number of fairy lanterns, whose twinkling lights 
 were most enchanting; the interior was also decorated with 
 laurel and oak branches, interspersed with choice flowers. 
 The visitors were accommodated with rustic seats and also a 
 plentiful supply of viands and rich delicacies, on rustic tables 
 erected for the purpose. A Glee of Lord Mornington's was 
 sung, " Here in cool grot and mossy cell, where rural Fays 
 and Fairies dwell." On the fairy shades being instantane- 
 ously removed from the lanterns, a bright blaze of splendid 
 light shone forth illuminating every dark recess. The nume- 
 rous visitors were purposely intercepted and conducted to the 
 fairy cave by an individual attired in green with artificial 
 wings, representing "Ariel," the leading character of the 
 enchanting scene.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 173 
 
 side of the rock into the old quarry. This fissure 
 appears to go through the hulk of the rock from 
 side to side, as it is quite visible in the northern 
 exterior. 
 
 Opposite the entrance within the principal 
 cavity by creeping through a narrow archway, 
 another large recess presents itself, and there is 
 no doubt from the many fissures that may be seen 
 around, that many other subterranean passages 
 of even still greater extent may belong to this 
 rock that the foot of man has never yet trod. 
 In traversing these dreary inroads into an appa- 
 rently solid rock, on looking up, huge pieces of 
 stone naturally suspended overhead, seem from 
 their gloomy aspect and ponderous weight to 
 strike the mind with terror, while on the other 
 hand it is somewhat relieved by the fantastic 
 incrustations with which the sides, especially of 
 the large apartment, are covered ; one of these 
 depositions demands particular attention, as it 
 used, and is now by a few, to some extent, 
 regarded, as the guardian idol of the cavern, it is 
 situated on the left at the entrance a few feet
 
 174 HISTORY OF 
 
 above the ground, presenting the rude outline of 
 the human head, and is vulgarly called the 
 " Pope's Head " ; it is soft and porous being the 
 inorganic deposit of the decomposed rock, 
 brought down by the continual droppings, that 
 are always traversing through the veins of this 
 natural massive structure. In order to be pro- 
 tected from the tricks which the wicked little 
 inhabitants would play the visitors of this gloomy 
 region, it was formerly deemed absolutely neces- 
 sary to stick pins into the Pope's Head, and even 
 now the custom is not altogether obsolete ; now 
 and then a wag of more temerity than veneration, 
 would strip the shrine of its offerings, and risk 
 the heavy penalties that might be inflicted by the 
 vengeful and mysterious occupants of this dreary 
 abode. 
 
 By the permission of Lord Clifford, Professor 
 Buckland and Mr. Northmore commenced an 
 examination of this cavern, on the twelfth of 
 April, one thousand eight hundred and twenty- 
 five, when in the alluvial soil that was deposited 
 beneath the calcarious incrustation, their research
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 175 
 
 was rewarded by a variety of fossil bones, * 
 belonging to beasts of prey, similar to those found 
 in Kirkdale and Kents Hole ; it was in conse- 
 quence of these researches that a more convenient 
 entrance was obtained. Dr. Buckland discovered 
 what appeared to him to be a British kitchen, 
 charcoal, pottery, flint knives, &c. Mr. North- 
 more also found in the interior of the cavern, a 
 great quantity of mud, at some parts two or three 
 feet deep, at others he sounded six or eight feet 
 without reaching the bottom. He also discovered 
 what he considered to be an oxide of manganese, 
 lying about three or four feet below the surface, 
 and continuing nearly through the whole length 
 of the cavern. These learned gentlemen were 
 highly pleased with their discoveries, however 
 they differed widely in their geological theories, 
 each considering tbat his own scientific deduc- 
 tions were illustrated and confirmed by what was 
 here presented. 
 
 Here during the summer months parties regale 
 
 * Fossil bones of mammiferous animals are still found 
 under the stalagmitic floors of these caverns, and indeed, in 
 many caverns in the limestone ranges of South Devon.
 
 176 HISTORY OF 
 
 themselves, and fires are sometimes lighted ; the 
 effect is striking, as the flames play about the dark 
 recesses of this gloomy abode. In bringing this 
 sketch of the Pixies Hole to a close, it appears 
 necessary to observe that it cannot be rightly 
 appreciated without being visited. Its awful 
 shades, lengthened caverns, rudely ornamented 
 sides, venerable rocks, woods and dell, to which 
 it belongs, make it altogether superior to that 
 which we have by dimensions and divisions 
 attempted to describe. Banditti might have 
 chosen it as a proper place to have held their 
 revels, and there can be no doubt of its having 
 been used as a resort or hiding place, by the 
 Aborigines in times of danger ; though there are 
 no traces whatever of its having been appropriated 
 for religious purposes, yet it might have been 
 thus used, as it admirably accorded with the 
 gloomy superstition of the Druids. 
 
 On descending into the quarry near where the 
 old lime-kiln formerly stood, another object well 
 worthy investigation presents itself. It is one of 
 those chasms that are, as well as larger cavities,
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 177 
 
 frequently met with, and natural to limestone for- 
 mations ; the one here is altogether different 
 from the Pixies Hole, and is of considerable 
 length, about four feet in width, and twelve feet 
 in height ; the water finds its way from above, 
 and by the process of crystallization, columns 
 resembling the vaulted aisles of a cathedral cover 
 its sides ; these incrustations follow in uniform 
 succession, and preserve throughout the most 
 artistic effect. In addition to these richly 
 adorned sides, when first discovered, this cavity 
 had transparent alabaster-like stalactites, hanging 
 from its pointed roof; these from their brittle 
 nature, and the desire of visitors to possess them, 
 have nearly all disappeared. " It seems an 
 " established law according to Geologists, that 
 " these stalactites must live and increase by the 
 " process of their first formation, or else in 
 " becoming quiescent and stationary, the adhe- 
 " sion ceases and they crumble to powder." The 
 process of crystallization in this chasm, appears 
 to be still going forward.
 
 178 
 
 HISTORY OF 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 HE North-east division of this 
 parish, to which we now invite 
 the reader's attention, is fraught 
 with interest, from its having been 
 occupied by some of the most ancient and influen- 
 tial families of the neighbourhood, it is also 
 distinguished for many natural advantages and 
 rural beauty. To its ancient names of Harcombe, 
 Waddon, and Hams, many others of more 
 modern origin have been added. The Teign- 
 mouth road divides it from the Ugbrooke Vale, 
 and on the west it is bounded by the highway to 
 Plymouth. It is completely sheltered from the 
 north and east winds by Haldon, which rises 
 immediately above, and is a tract of land of con- 
 siderable extent, whose varied features are some-
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 179 
 
 what difficult to describe. In addition to the 
 stratum of mountain lime rock, that traverses it 
 from Chudleigh to Haldon, there are massive 
 ridges of considerable elevation that rise towards 
 the west. The smaller fragments of rocks are 
 scattered in endless variety in the back ground ; 
 some clothed with ivy and various plants, others 
 altogether bare, while others again sink beneath 
 the verdant sod. These rocky heights are 
 planted with apple trees, whose growth is not so 
 large as those in the clay soils, but they bear 
 plentifully. The air of this upland region is dry 
 and elastic, yet genial. Springs of water clear as 
 crystal are here abundant, welling up beneath 
 the lime rocks, irrigating the meadows that stretch 
 towards the vale, and supplying the farms and 
 cottages on their way, 
 
 We now proceed to particularize a few of the 
 most interesting localities. Hams Barton first 
 claims our attention, which is soon reached by 
 crossing Kate-brook and tben proceeding either 
 by road or path fields. The house is inclosed in 
 a court and is marked by a few chestnuts trees.
 
 180 HISTORY OF 
 
 It is thus noticed by Polwhele, " Hams was for- 
 merly the seat of the family of Hunt, situated 
 about three quarters of a mile from Chudleigh." 
 " In this parish " says Risdon " Hunt have their 
 habitation where they have inheritances." Hams 
 was an estate of very considerable extent when 
 in possession of the Hunts ; " it afterwards be- 
 longed to the Ingletts, now the Fortescue family, 
 of whom, what remained, was bought by one 
 Beech, who sold it to Sir Robert Palk," and 
 it was finally purchased by Lord Clifford. 
 A portion only of the old mansion is standing, 
 what remains is in good repair, and occupied as 
 a farm. Its style is early gothic ; the principal 
 doorway with several others, are granite arched, 
 the door itself massive and altogether antique, 
 the ceilings of some of the rooms are unplastered, 
 being of oak exactly smoothed and jointed, as 
 was common with these ancient residences. 
 The windows anciently were of stained glass, but 
 have been displaced for others, or blocked up, 
 and now some of them are modern sash win- 
 dows. To the old house an addition was made
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 181 
 
 of a servants hall, and a banquetting room, in the 
 year one thousand sis hundred and twenty-one. 
 It has a vaulted ceiling enriched in compartments 
 rising above a deep cornice. The arms of Hunt 
 are over the chimney-piece, * and the royal arms 
 at the upper end of the room ; these were for- 
 merly no doubt emblazoned and painted ; the 
 decorations are in a good state of preservation, 
 but disfigured by whitewash. The pedigree of 
 this family is traced by the Herald's Visitation,, 
 to the year one thousand sis hundred and twenty, 
 they are mentioned as belonging to Exeter and 
 Chudleigh ; Thomas Hunt was mayor of Exeter 
 in one thousand five hundred and seventeen, and 
 another of the same name in one thousand five 
 hundred and thirty-seven. There are various 
 entries in the parish register of this family, 
 from one thousand five hundred and sisty-four, to 
 one thousand seven hundred and thirty, when the 
 last entry was made. 
 
 * Az., on a bend between two water bougets, or., thre< 
 leopard's faces, gules. 
 
 Crest. On a mount, V., a hound selant, or., collared, G., 
 chained to a pikestaff, S., the head per pale, or. and argent.
 
 182 HISTORY OF 
 
 Upcott is situated north-east, not far from 
 Hams Barton, with it the rocky district com- 
 mences, the farm house was built by the Rev. G. 
 Burrington, (father of the late vicar) about a cen- 
 tury ago. It commands fine views towards the 
 south, and is sheltered by the lime rocks. Upcott 
 cannot but be regarded with deep interest, when it 
 is known to be the birthplace of Major James 
 Rennell, whose family classed with the respect- 
 able yeomanry of the neighbourhood. Their 
 ancient inheritance still stands and is known as 
 Rennell's farm, which is situated at Waddon a 
 short distance from Upcott, and to which place the 
 parents of the Major must have removed not long 
 before his birth. The name of Rennell is of 
 frequent occurrence in the parish register, also 
 amongst " the seven men " : talents of no ordinary 
 kind was the birthright of this ancient family. 
 The descendants from another branch who resided 
 at Fishwick, in the parish of Kingsteignton, were 
 distinguished even to a late date by superior taste 
 in sculpture and painting ; belonging to the 
 Chudleigh Rennells we would direct attention,
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 183 
 
 not only to Major James, but also to Thomas, 
 who was born ia the year one thousand seven 
 hundred and eighteen ; he was a painter of con- 
 siderable merit, his works ( amongst many others ) 
 gained him the patronage of the Duke and 
 Duchess of Kingston ; * but every favour and ad- 
 vantage conferred on him, was wholly lost by his 
 indolence and improvidence ; his scientific know- 
 ledge and inventive powers were considerable, he 
 was an excellent chemist for that day, preparing 
 his own colours, and is said to have acquired the 
 art of fixing the most fading. Many of his early 
 productions were in the town before the fire, two 
 or three are still in existence. He is said to 
 have excelled in the drapery of his portraits. 
 He resided many years at Plymouth, and from 
 thence removed to Dartmouth, where he lived in 
 great poverty ; however, about two years before 
 his death, he enjoyed a comfortable home through 
 the bounty of J. Seale, esquire. His death took 
 
 * The Duchess of Kingston as it is perhaps well known, 
 was the beautiful Miss Chudleigh of Ashton. A town in 
 Russia named Chudleigh was called after her as the writer has 
 been informed.
 
 184 HISTORY OF 
 
 place October the nineteenth, one thousand seven 
 hundred and eighty-eight. 
 
 Major James Rennell was born one thousand 
 seven hundred and forty-two, at Upcott, in this 
 parish, and at an early age attended a writing 
 school at Chudleigh. It is probable that the 
 wonders of the then busy town, contrasting with 
 the quiet of his rural home, elicited his genius 
 and aroused his power of close observation and 
 exact delineation, which raised him to the greatest 
 eminence At an early age he took, a map of the 
 town, which was a performance of sufficient merit 
 to attract the attention of the Rev. Gilbert Bur- 
 rington, through whose interest he was made a 
 midshipman at the age of fifteen, he quitted it for 
 the army when about twenty-four, and was sent 
 on active service to India, where he soon distin- 
 guished himself by his various charts of the 
 Indian coast, and his observations on the bank 
 and current of Cape Lagullas. He may be said 
 to have commenced altogether a new era in 
 geography, and is considered as the first cosmo- 
 grapher of his own or indeed of any age, his
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 185 
 
 discoveries being most valuable to the navigator, 
 and the world at large. His laborious researches 
 were not confined to modern geography alone, for 
 his treatises &c. are now the highest authorities 
 to which the classical student can appeal. * His 
 kindness and integrity were also bright accom- 
 paniments to his superior talents. The valuable 
 assistance he rendered Mungo Park, in preparing 
 his travels in Africa for publication, made it one 
 of the most interesting and popular works of its 
 day. He died on the twenty-ninth of March, 
 one thousand eight hundred and thirty, univer- 
 sally respected and regretted ; his remains were 
 interred in Westminster Abbey. The name of 
 Rennell was lost to the parish with the parents 
 of Major James : the Fishwick branch in the male 
 line is also extinct. 
 
 Upcott just mentioned, may be considered to 
 occupy a central position amidst the surrounding 
 lime rocks, and its quarry has been extensively 
 
 * He published illustrations of the "Expedition of the 
 younger Cyrus and the retreat of the ten thousand Greeks," 
 " Observations on the topography of the Plain of Troy," also 
 on the " Topography of Ancient Babylon."
 
 186 HISTORY OF 
 
 worked ; in the centre of its rock there are 
 imbedded in sand, marine fossil shells of perfect 
 form, and classed by Professor Phillips as 
 " Murchisonia Spinosa." 
 
 The ancient Waddene Rock and its immediate 
 vicinity, are now known by the more inelegant 
 name of Porcombe. The rock is situated in a 
 copse adjoining Upcott, and the extensive exca- 
 vations that have been here carried on have left 
 only a broken ridge of some length, plainly indi- 
 cating that it was once the most magnificent 
 development of mountain lime rock in the parish. 
 In connection with this quarry, stood the ancient 
 "Waddene" hamlet, the ruins of which were 
 well known to some of the old inhabitants of the 
 neighbourhood, and were taken down by the late 
 Lord Clifford in consequence of their being a 
 haunt for vagrants and smugglers. By a straight 
 path through the copse the old quarry is soon 
 reached, and it presents a scene of rural beauty 
 and unusual stillness, where all was once bustle 
 and activity. The old lime-kiln is deep and 
 cavernous, shrouded with various plants, while a
 
 CHUDLETGH. 187 
 
 tree of some size grows from its very centre. 
 Amongst many other trees that surround and 
 adorn this favoured spot, there are two large 
 beeches which are splendid specimens of the 
 order to which they belong ; their extended 
 branches and close foliage, so peculiar to their 
 growth and the position they occupy, strikingly 
 contrast with the clustered underwood that here 
 and there intersperse and adorn the verdant 
 undulations around. The extensive recesses 
 formed by excavators, have altogether lost their 
 rocky character, except where the rude outline 
 of the broken ridge rises above the tangled 
 wreaths woven by the spontaneous operations of 
 nature. Every hollow and every crevice is 
 covered with vegetation ; ivy, clematis, wild rose, 
 underwood and the trailing bramble, all here 
 revel in uninterrupted but graceful luxuriance. 
 Fragments of rock that form hillocks around the 
 kiln-head, are covered with thyme, lotus, and a 
 variety of wild flowers : and it appears as if 
 nature had hastened to hide and repair the shat- 
 tered remains of its former grandeur, by clothing
 
 138 HISTORY OF 
 
 it with extra beauty and fertility; however, the 
 southern aspect, the warm recesses, and light soil, 
 so peculiar to limestone deposits, are the attrac- 
 tions for the early and fragrant violet and all the 
 lovely flowers that adorn the remains of the 
 ancient " Waddene Rock." 
 
 Modern Waddcn, ( being a portion of the 
 ancient district ) is about a quarter of a mile 
 south-east of Porcombe, it is an estate of some 
 extent, with a respectable farm house and several 
 cottages, also a rock but of far less beauty than 
 those towards the west. This estate was evidently 
 at one period divided between the Rennells and 
 the Hellyers ; the name of the latter although not 
 before mentioned, is of frequent occurrence in 
 the parish register and amongst " the seven 
 men" ; the representatives of this family were in 
 succession baptized Christopher. Mr. Hellyer 
 the last of that name, sold an extensive inheri- 
 tance at Waddon to the late Lord Clifford. 
 There is a gravestone in the church, to the 
 memory of several individuals of this ancient 
 family.
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 189 
 
 On the west of the rocky district already 
 described, is situated Kerswell, purchased a few 
 years since of Sir Lawrence Palk, by Mr. Rich- 
 ards : since it has been in his possession, he has 
 greatly improved the surrounding neighbourhood, 
 by making a new road from Kerswell to Haldou, 
 and also by building on it a neat and commodious 
 house, that commands fine views towards the 
 south, and is adorned with gardens, shrubberies, 
 and plantations. Kerswell Rock is one of the 
 most conspicuous of the western ridges, and having 
 an easy access, it is frequently visited by parties, 
 during the summer months. The scenery from 
 its summit is remarkably fine and extensive, 
 exciting general admiration : it has in its own 
 neighbourhood the attraction of kindred quarries, 
 a romantic old warren and woody dell ; several 
 farms and villas enliven the scene, but towards 
 Chudleigh the eye is especially attracted, where 
 its rocks and deep ravine are displayed to ad- 
 vantage : while beyond the vale and Knighton 
 Heath, the striking objects of many different 
 parishes may be distinctly traced, backed by the
 
 190 HISTORY OF 
 
 wild downs and tors of Dartmoor. The morning 
 mists and summer haze, that are frequently seen 
 hanging above the valley, which are the admi- 
 ration of landscape painters, here especially 
 charm the beholder ; indeed none but an artist, 
 can rightly appreciate the exquisite loveliness of 
 this extensive view. 
 
 It appears here necessary to observe, that 
 though Lord Clifford possesses nearly the whole 
 of the Waddon district, still there is on the 
 north, an estate of some extent, belonging to 
 J. H. Ley, Esq., known as Higher Upcott. 
 
 Harcombe is situated about three miles north- 
 east of Chudleigh, it was here that the ancient 
 families of Stawell and Balle had inheritances ; 
 from the pedigree of the Stawells it is seen that 
 the last of the family who belonged to this parish, 
 was baptized in the year one thousand five hun- 
 dred and seventy-eight, from whom Sir John 
 Stawell, of Bovey-Tracey, was a descendant, 
 although born at Bickington. 
 
 The Balles, of Higher Harcombe, were among 
 the most wealthy and influential of the ancient
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 191 
 
 families of the parish, and from them the Mam- 
 head branch ( so well known in the history of the 
 county ) descended. On the side of the glen, 
 immediately opposite their old heritage at Har- 
 combe, a mansion was began to be built by the last 
 of the Balles, this accidentally took fire, which 
 not only stopped the progress of the building, but 
 caused the design of its erection to be altogether 
 relinquished ; some of the old walls are still 
 standing, such of the materials as were worth 
 removing were taken to Mamhead, to form part of 
 a mansion there. It is well known, that Thomas 
 Balle purchased the manor of Ashcombe of 
 Edward Blount, esquire. No entry occurs in 
 the parish register of the Harcombe Balles, later 
 than one thousand six hundred and seventy-three, 
 but in Ashcombe church-yard there are many 
 grave-stones to the memory of Balles, yeomen, 
 and Balles of Mamhead, from one thousand six 
 hundred and ninety-three to one thousand 
 seven hundred and fifty-five. 
 
 The estate of Higher Harcombe was included 
 in the purchase of Mamhead, and Lower Har-
 
 192 HISTORY OF 
 
 combe was bought by Sir Robert Newman and 
 Mr. Parker, of the executors of the Rev. J. 
 Templer, of Lindridge. 
 
 Higher Harcombe is now a farm of consider- 
 able extent, adjoining and comprising a portion 
 of Haldon, it was considered one of the poorest 
 farms in the neighbourhood, having been greatly 
 neglected for a long time ; however, about seven 
 years ago T. Newman, Esq., considered that this 
 tract of land was a good field for the introduction 
 of the modern system of agriculture, accordingly 
 a most substantial and convenient farm house was 
 erected, and from that period to the present, 
 under the management of his Bailiff and the direct 
 superintendence of himself, a thorough system of 
 draining has been carried on, coupled with the 
 application of the practical improvements which 
 of late years science has pointed out, ( this of 
 course has been attended with a considerable 
 outlay of capital) but as may be expected, the 
 value of the farm is enhanced tenfold, and we 
 have now, instead of the almost waste piece of 
 land, a first-rate model farm in a high state of
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 19*3 
 
 cultivation, producing its average crops and 
 taking completely the lead of its neighbours. 
 This tract of land resembles in cultivation and 
 scenery, the well known glens of Scotland. The 
 population of the hamlet of Harcombe comprises 
 about sixty : the cottages are detached and 
 solitary, from being united to a glen that belongs- 
 to Haldon, and the character of its scenery differs 
 essentially from the vale of Chudleigh. It is 
 pleasing to add that private benevolence has 
 provided for the children of Harcombe a week 
 and sabbath school, and the aged have also the 
 privilege of enjoying a cottage service on the 
 sabbath. Generous christian sympathy can never 
 be more beneficially employed than when engaged 
 in promoting the spiritual welfare, and in provid- 
 ing for the wants of these remote rural districts. 
 
 Whiteway lies about two and a half miles north 
 of Chudleigh at the foot of Haldon. It was the 
 ancient inheritance of the Bennetts ; * their pedi- 
 gree is given by Westcott, who states that 
 
 * Arms. Sable, a chevron crminois between three tripled, 
 cars of wheat, or.
 
 194 HISTORY OF 
 
 Richard Bennett, married Julyan, the daughter 
 of William Whiteway, of Chudleigh. It is now 
 the seat of M. E. N. Parker, * esquire, formerly 
 member for the southern division of the county, 
 and who was High Sheriff for Devon, in the year 
 one thousand eight hundred and fifty. The 
 present mansion stands on the site of the old 
 residence, and is an handsome brick house, 
 consisting of a centre and two wings ; one only 
 of these was built when the house was erected by 
 Lord Boringdon whose property it was, and who 
 exchanged it for some lands belonging to his 
 younger brother Montague. Whiteway after- 
 wards passed into the hands of the late Mr. 
 Parker, who added the other wing in the year 
 one thousand eight hundred and thirteen, and 
 made every necessary improvement to constitute 
 it a neat, elegant, and commodious residence. 
 The entrance to Whiteway is by a lodge-gate 
 from the old Exeter road, and the house is reached 
 in about half a mile's distance by a pleasant drive 
 
 * Arms. Sable, a stag's head caboshed between two 
 flaunches, Arg.
 
 CHUDLE1GH. 195 
 
 through an extensive lawn, that commands fine 
 views of the vales of Chudleigh and the Teign, 
 with a wide expanse of country beyond. Mr. 
 Parker has considerably added to his estate by 
 recent purchases, and has introduced the modern 
 improvements of the day in agriculture. This 
 high state of cultivation and the extensive plan- 
 tations have entirely altered and greatly improved 
 the aspect of this neighbourhood. Oxencombe 
 belonging to this estate situated east of Whiteway, 
 is one of the largest farms in the parish, having 
 on it several lime-kilns. The extensive preserves 
 belonging to Whiteway are well stocked with 
 game. 
 
 Filleigh the residence and property of Major 
 Milles, is situated about a mile from the town, and 
 the open and extensive lawn in which the house 
 stands is a gentle eminence, lying on tbe western 
 side of the vale. There is belonging to it two en- 
 trances, one from tbe old and the other from the 
 new Exeter road, these roads bound the estate on 
 either side ; Filleigh House faces the east, but 
 is sheltered on tbe north by a thick copse or
 
 196 HISTORY OF 
 
 wood, and beyond, there belongs to it fine planta- 
 tions of firs ; while it enjoys pleasant views, it is 
 itself a great addition to the scenery as beheld on 
 the other side of the vale, or from the road that 
 skirts it. 
 
 Oaklands the residence of T. Lane, esquire, 
 was built by Major Milles on some coarse clay 
 land called Filleigh farm, situated west of the old 
 Exeter road. The reader who a few years since 
 might have known this steril tract of land, the 
 worst in the parish, with the exception of Haldon, 
 would now scarcely recognise it. This great 
 change has been effected by a judicious and 
 experimental system of farming, under the direct 
 superintendence of the occupier, who has literally 
 converted this once barren waste into fruitful 
 fields, bearing average crops. On returning from 
 Filleigh farm to the new Exeter road, there 
 remain to be noticed, Oakfield House, Heathfield 
 Cottage, and Little-hill House : these modern 
 residences are adorned with fine trees of ancient 
 growth, their gardens and shrubberies being kept 
 in excellent order, and well contrast with the
 
 CHUDLEIOH. 107 
 
 rich variety and luxuriance of the opposite district 
 of W addon. 
 
 Before leaving; this locality, it will be necessary 
 to notice Culver House the present residence of 
 T. Yarde, esquire, which within the last two 
 years has been considerably enlarged. The gar- 
 dens have been newly arranged and greatly 
 improved, and to them has been added a beautiful 
 conservatory. 
 
 The Yarde family * is amongst the most 
 ancient in the county, and as a direct descendant 
 Mr. T. Yarde has lately come into the possession 
 of the family estate of White way in the parish of 
 Kingsteignton. The town must feel greatly 
 indebted to him for his many improvements and a 
 considerable outlay of capital. 
 
 It would only weary the reader's attention, to 
 enumerate the different estates belonging to the 
 western division of the parish, as they present no 
 distinct features or peculiarities ; as a whole, they 
 may be described as well wooded, with extensive 
 
 * Arms. Argent, a chevron, gules, between three water 
 bougets, sable.
 
 198 HISTORY OF 
 
 orchards and scenery highly picturesque, the 
 whole tract consisting of an alternation of hill and 
 dale, with the exception of some fine marshes 
 that adjoin the Teign. This river is reached by 
 many romantic roads across the hills that wind 
 by steep descents, or through the verdant 
 meadows of Northwood. Having already traced 
 the sinuous course of the Teign, from its granite 
 embedded fountain head on Dartmoor, ( the birth- 
 place of Devonshire rivers ) to its joining the Sea 
 at Teignmouth, we must now notice the fish for 
 which this river is remarkable ; it contains 
 Salmon, Peel, Grilse, Sea Trout or Truff, 
 Gravelling and Heppers, all of the species of 
 Salmo ; Trout and Eel are also plentiful. It 
 was lately thought necessary to protect the fish, 
 accordingly about four years since, the " Teign- 
 bridge Fishing Association " was formed, which 
 now consists of upwards of seventy members of 
 the most wealthy and influential of the neighbour- 
 hood and elsewhere ; the fishing for the last few 
 years, has been seriously injured by the mineral 
 waters of the mines near Ashton, .flowing into it,
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 199 
 
 and the destruction of the fish has at times been 
 very great : the society has however remedied the 
 evil, by a scientific arrangement of catch pits, 
 which collect and allow the deleterious matter 
 held in suspension to precipitate, previous to its 
 influx into the river, and the result is, that the 
 Teign abounds with fish, and is the favourite 
 resort of numberless sportsmen, who delight in 
 the capture of its finny inhabitants. 
 
 It remains for us to add, that the Teign near 
 Crocombe, is a most beautiful clear stream 
 murmuring over a rough and shallow bed, and at 
 some places altogether concealed by trees. The 
 bridge here may be considered a central point, 
 from which, many different parishes can be 
 reached. The hills on the western side rise to a 
 considerable height, their rocky summits sur- 
 mounting the woods, present a striking appear- 
 ance, the vallies are interspersed with several 
 farms, and the woods sweep along the banks of 
 the river as far as Chudleigh bridge. 
 
 Before concluding this brief sketch of the 
 scenery of Chudleigh, it will be necessary to offer
 
 200 HISTORY OF 
 
 a few remarks on Haldon, which in part belongs 
 to the parish, and forms the entire of its north 
 and north-east boundary ; it is traversed by many 
 roads, along which can be enjoyed the fine views 
 and fresh breezes from the English Channel, 
 together with the rich valley of Exminster and 
 Exeter in the distance. Haldon presents to the an- 
 tiquarian and geologist, many interesting features 
 in ancient camps, barrows and roads, fossils and 
 a variety of sands and coloured earths, while the 
 flints themselves if selected, are a valuable ingre- 
 dient in the manufacture of porcelain and china, 
 as well as for repairing roads. Amongst many 
 fertile and lovely eminences that environ Haldon, 
 one only claims our attention, from its being the 
 most thickly wooded grove in the neighbourhood : 
 it is styled Box Hill, and lies above the Duns- 
 combe vale east of Chudleigh, forming a wood 
 crowned height to Ugbrooke Park ; while it is 
 worthy notice, that in one of the largest fields of 
 the parish and adjoining this plantation, the Park 
 and its richly clad eminences forcibly present 
 themselves. The buildings and other animating
 
 CHUDLEIGH. '201 
 
 features that are enjoyed when within its precincts 
 being altogether hid, and the whole landscape is 
 well backed up by the deep blue hills towards the 
 South Hams. 
 
 Geology is not like scenery confined to a 
 certain locality, nor are its indications often 
 visible on the surface. It is a science requiring 
 deep research, and a wider range than Devonshire 
 or even England afford. The following observa- 
 tions with which the writer has been favoured, 
 will, it is trusted prove interesting and instruc- 
 tive. 
 
 " The geological structure of the parish of 
 Chudleigh belongs to the great Devonian forma- 
 tion, consisting of slate covered occasionally with 
 trappean ash, locally called dunstone, which 
 occupy a position somewhere intermediate be- 
 tween the silurian strata of Wales, and the old 
 red sandstone of other countries. It contains 
 from three to four hundred fossils peculiar to 
 itself, with drifted fragments of trilobites, and 
 other remains belonging to an earlier period : it is 
 traversed by several veins of limestone, formerly
 
 202 HISTORY OF 
 
 coral reefs, made up to a great extent of zoophital 
 remains, which commonly go under the name of 
 madrepores ; near Chudleigh as in other parts 
 of the county, the limestone forms a serviceable 
 marble. The faces of the rocks exhibit the most 
 unequivocal marks of the Sea at one time having 
 dashed against them ; and the neighbouring deep 
 ravine would seem to have been scooped out by an 
 Oceanic current. After this a bed of marine 
 alluvial matter must have been deposited in the 
 ravine, remains of which may still be seen near 
 to where the brook enters. By the erosive 
 action of this brook, its channel has sunk down in 
 the alluvial bed in some places, to a depth of 
 forty or fifty feet. The occurrence of scattered 
 and partially water-worn stones, the same as 
 those we now find in the channel of the brook, 
 would seem to indicate that the stream must 
 formerly have flowed at a much higher level. 
 The whole of the valley to the south-west, extend- 
 ing from Bovey to Newton, must at one time 
 have been covered by the Sea, which did not 
 entirely take its departure till within the historical
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 203 
 
 period, as anchors have been found in the Bovey 
 coal-field. That the clay and grit of this field 
 must have been deposited by the Sea there can be 
 little doubt ; it is also equally obvious that the 
 trees and vegetable matter must have been washed 
 down from the surrounding hills by tides and 
 currents. But where such an immense thickness 
 of wood as that which is now undergoing com- 
 pression into coal could have been drifted from, 
 it is very difficult to understand. We have 
 evidence of the whole of Devon including Dart- 
 moor, having, at a much earlier period, been 
 covered by the Sea. The drifted fragments of 
 rock found scattered along the south-western 
 declivities of Dartmoor, can only be explained by 
 reference to the action of Oceanic currents ; 
 while in the district of Chudleigh there are 
 bowlder stones which would seem to indicate a 
 similar agency, if not, perhaps the action of float- 
 ing ice." 
 
 Words however well chosen, can never convey 
 just ideas of scenery, and it must be admitted, 
 that after every effort on the writer's part, the
 
 204 HISTORY OF 
 
 many attractions of this locality, Lave been but 
 faintly portrayed, and in order to appreciate the 
 rich and harmonious grandeur, that Nature has 
 so bountifully bestowed on this favoured spot, 
 the neighbourhood itself must be visited.
 
 [ 205 ] 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 The winter of 1813-14 was very severe throughout Europe ; 
 particularly so in England. In January 1814, the most extra- 
 ordinary fall of snow occurred in the west of England, that 
 had been known in the memory of man ; and after several 
 years nothing similar has happened. The following extracts 
 from a " Naturalist's Calendar " kept at the time at Chudleigh, 
 may prove interesting in reference to such an unusual pheno- 
 menon. 
 
 j. p. j. 
 
 1814, JANUARY. 
 
 1st. A fine mild day. The sun shone out quite warm, the 
 moles are throwing up their heaps in the fields in great quan- 
 tities, this is generally considered to be a sign of rain. 
 
 " And feel at every step, 
 
 Our foot half sunk in hillocks green and soft, 
 
 Rais'd by the mole, the miner of the soil." 
 
 A clear unclouded night, Poa Annua, (annual meadow grass), 
 Lamium Purpureum, (Keel Dead Nettle), Leontodon Taraxa- 
 cum, (Dandelion), Bellis Perennis, (common Daisy), Sene- 
 cio Vulgaris, (common Groundsel). Fl.
 
 206 APPENDIX. 
 
 2nd. Thick fog in the morning — fine day — cloudy evening. 
 
 3rd. Heavy fall of rain. 
 
 4th. Cold dreary day — occasional falls of snow. 
 
 5th. Severe frost, and heavy fall of snow several inches 
 deep — Birds congregate. 
 
 6th. Heavy fall of snow in the morning — fine day — severe 
 frost in the evening and very cold. 
 
 7th. Cold north wind— cloudy — severe frost — the snow 
 covers the ground. 
 
 8th. Frost — fine clear day — the birds are become tame. 
 
 9th. Frost — fine clear day. 
 
 10th. Very severe frost — pools frozen over — wind east. 
 
 11th. During the last night and the greater part of to day 
 the snow fell in great quantities, the wind blew very strong to 
 the north and north-east, and drifted the snow at some places 
 to the height of six and eight feet. Such a fall of snow was 
 never remembered by the oldest person, it beat with such 
 violence that it was almost impossible to leave the house, all 
 travelling was stopped. The mail coach was several times 
 overturned ; none of the other coaches attempted to proceed ; 
 the march of a regiment of soldiers was prevented ; some 
 houses could hardly be approached, all the entrances being 
 blocked up with snow. It was certainly the most surprising 
 snow storm ever experienced in this part of the country. 
 It ceased snowing about 4 o'clock p.m., when the wind sub* 
 sided, but the heavens continued very gloomy, and a little 
 snow fell about 9 o'clock p.m.; the cold was not very in- 
 tense. 
 
 12th. A fine clear day but very cold — severe frost — the 
 river Teign frozen over — the snow deep in the roads, no 
 carriages able to pass — the mails carried on horseback —
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 207 
 
 birds feed on the vegetables in the gardens and numbers of 
 them found dead. 
 
 How find the myriads that in summer cheer 
 
 The hills and Tallies with their ceaseless songs 
 
 Due sustenance, or where subsist they now. 
 
 Earth yields them nought ; the imprisoned worm is safe 
 
 Beneath the frozen clod ; all seeds of herbs 
 
 Lie covered close ; and berry bearing thorns 
 
 That feed the thrush (whatever some suppose) 
 
 Afford the smaller minstrels no supply. 
 
 The long protracted rigour of the year 
 
 Thins all their num'rous flocks. In chinks and holes 
 
 Ten thousand seek an unmolested end 
 
 As instinct prompts, self-buried ere they die. 
 
 13th. Fine day but severely cold— carriages are drawn 
 through the snow with great difficulty— the mail from London 
 did not arrive until 7 o'clock p.m., 18 hours later than the 
 usual lime. 
 
 14th. The day was ushered in with a strong east wind and 
 piercing cold— at 9 o'clock a.m. the snow began to fall, and 
 continued for several hours. All the attempts which had 
 been made to render the roads passable became useless, as 
 the drifting of the snow again blocked up the roads. Several 
 who attempted to pass over Haldon and in various other 
 directions were obliged to return to the town. The coach 
 came from Plymouth but could not proceed any further. 
 The heaps of snow at some places reached to the roofs of the 
 houses. 
 
 I'jth. It thawed a little— cloudy and a thick fog. I walked 
 about a mile from the town on the Exeter road to see a pass 
 cut in the snow ; before this was effected all travelling was 
 stopped ; snow completely filled up the road and was from 
 eight to twelve feet in height. A sight so very unusual
 
 208 APPENDIX. 
 
 attracted many spectators, the roads having been cleared 
 some carts passed and the mails were carried on horseback. 
 
 16th. Thaw during the day, and thick fog, a great many 
 people who were detained by the snow, were able to leave 
 the town — the coaches could not proceed the whole way from 
 Plymouth to Exeter — the snow is disappearing very gradually 
 without rain — a fortunate circumstance, as danger was appre- 
 hended from floods. 
 
 17th. Snow disappearing gradually — a number of travellers 
 who had been detained passed to day — it froze towards the 
 evening, and about 8 o'clock p.m. snow began again to fall. 
 
 18th. Snow and rain. 
 
 19th. Snow with sleet and rain — the melting of the snow 
 has again rendered the roads impassable — the coaches were 
 forced to return to the town, being unable to pass over 
 Haldon — A heavy fall of snow in the evening. 
 
 20th. A great drift of snow during the night, and severe 
 frost — all travelling prevented — the coach passengers detained 
 in the town — the streets filled with large heaps of snow. 
 
 21st, Severe frost — fine day — fall of snow in the evening— ■ 
 the unusual severity of the weather continues in full force — 
 the coaches and waggons are buried in the snow on Haldon 
 — In some of the streets steps are cut in the snow to descend 
 to the houses. 
 
 22nd. Severe frost — cold day, and occasional falls of snow 
 — a number of people passed on horseback the only mode of 
 travelling. 
 
 23rd. Severe frost and cold north wind. 
 
 24th. Frost — a number of labourers working on the turn- 
 pike roads. 
 
 25th. Frost, but the wind not quite so cold. The roads
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 209 
 
 however cleared of the snow, and many carriages passed. 
 The mails still come in at irregular hours. 
 
 26th. Rapid thaw with rain and thick fog towards the 
 evening. The general average depth of the snow has been 
 about three feet. A great number of birds have died, and the 
 hares entered the gardens near the town for the vegetables, 
 and got entangled in the snow. 
 
 27th. Thick frost during the night— thaw with rain. 
 
 28th. Thaw — fine day — the sun shone out warm — the 
 ground appears at some places— the snow in the streets dis- 
 appearing gradually— the snow was drifted to the height of 
 18 and 20 feet at some places. 
 
 29th. Thaw — in the morning the wind was south— about 
 noon it came round to the north-west, and blew a tremendous 
 storm, and a little snow fell— the report that some soldiers 
 were lost in the snow on Haldon is incorrect, a single life has 
 not been lost anywhere— the barometer fell to 30p. below 28/n. 
 
 30th. Fine day— cold and frosty towards the evening— th< 
 Teign has overflowed its banks. 
 
 31st. Cold dreary day — falls of snow and hail. 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 1st. Slight frost and cold north wind. 
 
 2nd. Cold gloomy day— rain— the snow rapidly melting 
 away. 
 
 3rd. Severe white frost, and cold cloudy day. 
 
 4th. Fine day — the snow gradually disappearing without 
 a flood. 
 
 5th. Rain and sleet. 
 
 6th. Cloudy— rain— violent east wind.
 
 210 ATIENDIX, 
 
 7th, Stormy — occasional storms and thick fog in the 
 evening. 
 
 8th. Violent east -wind — showers — a rainbow appeared — 
 the snow has almost disappeared, except a little which has 
 drifted under the hedges. 
 
 FINIS 
 
 SEABLE. PRINTER, CHUDLEIGH.
 
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