I '.VS.'"' ■ r l^ I, <'\-' PICTURESQUE SPAIN ARCHITECTURE * LANDSCAPE LIFE OF THE PEOPLE BY K. HIELSCHER T. FISHER UNWIN LTD LONDON : : ADELPH1 TERRACE MS MOST HUMBLY DEDICATED TO HIS MAJESTY KING ALFONSO Xlll. OF SPAIN 4983 i 7 Spain is one great open-air museum containing the cultural wealth of the most varied epochs and peoples. On the walls of the Altamari cave is blazoned that much admired steer painted thousands of years ago by men of the Ice Age. In Barcelona stand the fantastic buildings of neo-Castilian present-day art. Celts, Iberians, Romans, Carthaginians, Moors and Goths have fought and struggled for supremacy in Spain. Of all this the stones tell us to-day. They are the chronicles. They relate of bitter strife; of the culture and art aspirations belonging to times gone by. Much has vanished into dust and ruin. That which has survived time's fretting tooth serves as a giant bridge to lead us back to the past. Fate was kind enough to let me spend five years in Spain. Caught there by the war while engaged in studies, 1 was cut off from home. I made use of my involuntary stay to become acquainted with the country in its furthermost corners. I roved to and fro from the pinnacles of the Pyrenees to the shores of Tarifa, from the palm forest of Elche to the forgotten Hurdes inhabitants of Estremadura. On all my lonely wanderings 1 was accompanied by my faithful camera: we covered over 45000 kilometres together in Spain. We kept our eyes open diligently. 1 say we, for in addition to mine was a precious glass eye in the shape of the Zeiss lens. Whereas my eyes only made me the intellectual recipient of what we saw, that of my travelling companion made it a pictorial permanency. I took over 2000 photographs during our peregrinations. This volume only presents a small selection. It was not easy to make the final choice. Many a picture had to be omitted to which 1 was attached, either for its peculiarity or its character. 1 went at no one's instigation through Spain but that of my own in search of the beautiful. I was not guided by any constraining professional principles. Beautiful art treasures, geographical peculiarities, enchanting landscapes, interesting customs that attracted my attention were retained by my camera. I followed the same lines in making my selections for publication. 1 entitle this volume "Picturesque Spain". Much will be unknown to many. 1 begin however with a spot famous throughout the world. — And yet I was bound to. Like the pilgrim who is drawn to the fabled Fontana Trevi once he has drunk of its waters, so too was 1 drawn again and again to Granada in my wanderings. I believe too that I have succeeded in presenting the Alhambra from one or two different points of view. Who indeed could exhaust this well of beauty? Nor could I pass heedlessly by Cordoba, Seville and Toledo, for these towns are starting points. — Finger-posts to unknown Spain. Without these monuments of ancient times, those parts of Spain situate far from the high-roads remain an almost insol- vable riddle. My pictures must speak for me. Those who know how to ask them will find that they tell much. For this reason I shall limit myself to but a few initiatory words. They serve to connect the known with the unknown; to throw light on the paths along which I journeyed in Spain. VII Granada! Thy name is music; a joyous chord of beauty! To pass the spring within thy gateways is to walk the heights of life. Spring has cast a shower of blossoms over the town and woven a delicate green carpet around the Alhambra. How many ihany centuries has is not worshipped thus yearly at the feet of the castle? Long ago passionate Moorish women decorated their raven hair there with rosy almond blossoms. — It is long since that the glory of those days has departed. Perhaps this is why the castle walls look down so sadly at the beauty of this blissful vernal soil. Bidding defiance in the grandeur of their strength the towers of the Alhambra arise. Their fiery red lights skywards like the flames on giant altars.*) Is it possible that these massive cyclopean walls should hide a fairy-land? Impatiently we climb the castle mount. Reaching an old stone gateway ornamented with pomegranates, the noise of the streets is left behind as we enter a yew grove whose ancient giant stems are ivy- grown; blue myrtle covers the ground, the lights gleam golden through the foliage, the wind murmurs among the branches, nightingales sing in the boscage, swallows dart twittering over the tree tops, water hurries^babbling down the hilly slope. All this seems like a miracle in Spain so poor in forests. It is as though another world had opened its gates. The great Gate of Judgment is passed, and an inconspicuous door leads to the Court of the Myrtles. Here one feels surrounded by the spirit of the Orient. Delicate jasper and alabaster columns support the airy arches which are swung like lace veils from arcade to arcade. The emerald-green waters of the fountain gaze dreamily skywards and at all the bright beauty of the scene. Then there is the Court of the Lions, subject of so many songs, with the filigreed architecture of its covered walks. Enchanting in its delicate tracery and beauty, it is a fairy-tale, a poem in stone, infinitely rhythmic with music. And indeed, music is the only language that can render such beauty. The magnificent halls are full of a wealth of ornamentation. The walls are rainbow- like with the colours of Persian carpets and Cashmere shawls. Arabic inscriptions are scrolled along these labyrynths of colour, praising in exalted words the mystic beauty of the halls. One runs joyously: "God has filled me with such a plentitude of beauty that even the stars stay in their course enchanted to gaze on me." Once beautiful sultanas looked out from the "Seat of Admiration" (as the Arabs called that jewel of the Alhambra, the Mirador de Daraca,) into the pretty garden filled with the heavy scent of roses, jasmines and oleanders. A swaying mass of tangled climbing plants are festooned from laurel to cypress, and from cypress to orange-tree. In the middle there is a marvellously delicate fountain basin from the edges of which the water slides and drips with tuneful sound as if it fain would tell of long forgotten beauteous days. We leave the glittering fairy-palace full of memories of the Arabian Nights, and our lips whisper the wish of the Arabic poem writ over a little niche: "May Heaven's blessings rest upon these castle halls As long as pilgrims wend their way to Mecca's walls!" Nay, as long as clouds sail the skies, and seekers after beauty rove on earth! This is the mood one is in when climbing further up the mountain to the Moorish summer palace, the Generalife. We are met, as it were, and shown the way by a double row of slim black-green cypress — dark trees of silence. *) Vide pictures I — 11, 25. Bracketed figures in the text refer to the respective views. Vlll The Generalife is enthroned far up on the heights, and embedded in terrace-shaped gardens. The gardens! In them nature has enfolded all her abounding wealth of colour. Crimson-ramblers, wistarias, vines and ivy smother the walls. Mangolias, oleanders, almond trees, laurels, cypresses, araucarias, olive trees, agaves, palms and mimosa vie with one another for precedence. Flaming pomegranate blossoms, blood-red roses, violet mallows, blue fleurs-de-lis, white jasmine, yellow narcissi, and golden oranges in dark green foliage are a riot of colour. Ball shaped myrtles surround the little fountain, listening to the babbling of its silver waters, and in the twigs the song of birds greeting nature in her holiday garments. Wondrous peace broods o'er this land. Through trees and halls and wall arches there is a magnificent view of the Alhambra and the multi-coloured houses of the town at its feet, and further on to the picturesque Albaicin, and over cactus-grown Sacro- monte with its gypsy cave-dwellings, and still further to the snow-capped Sierra Nevada. Another glance shows the fertile plains of the Vega through which the clear waters of the Genii flow. However full of radiant happiness the day may have been, it is outshone by the sinking sun casting a golden halo over the country-side. The walls of the Alhambra, once so fiercely fought for, stand forth as though dipped in blood. The distant moun- tains glitter golden-bronze, and the snowy sides of the Sierra Nevada scintillate in flames. Slowly the fair fires die down, and a chill spectral white falls upon the snow summits. The eventide is there and with it the stars. The Spaniards have coined a proud sentence: "Quien no ha visto Granada, no ha visto nada!" He who has not seen Granada has seen nought! And 1 should like to add: He who has seen Granada and the Alhambra on sunny spring days, bears with him a talisman to ward off sorrows in dull days, and can never be completely unhappy again in life. o The Mosque, Cordova. A nation set forth to convert the world to its faith. Its battle-cry in this holy war was Allah ! Victory after victory was gained, till finally the triumphal march of fanaticism was stopped by the opposing faith of its religious adversaries. The waves receded, and the Cross triumphed over the Crescent. This struggle of two faiths and two continents left indelible marks on the fields of battle. These wars had been carried on in the name of God. Sacred edifices were erected to the victor. On the ruins of the mosque arose the most beautiful cathedral in the world as token of victory. Spain never would have received the impress she bears to- day without those bitter religious wars. Cordova was the jewel among Moorish occidental towns, destined to outshine the sister cities Damascus and Bagdad in thefarOrient. It was here that all the wealth and pomp of Moorish domination was displayed. Cordova's population exceeded a million souls. It was the seat of Arabic art and profound learning; the centre of religious life. The muezzin called the faithful to prayers from 3000 minarets. Cordova became a new Mecca which drew crowds of pilgrims from the East to the West. What has now become of this metropolis? A shadow! Wandering through narrow streets of the town one seems to be in Cordova of a thousand years ago. The old cobbled pavements are probably the same, the houses too, behind whose trellised windows the harem was hidden. The old crooked, narrow and confused mass of streets are still there. Once in a while a palm is seen leaning over white walls across the street; open doors offer views into pleasant court-yards. IX The Mezquita, the Mosque, stands like a dark rock surrounded by the white trembling light of the sea of houses. A wonderful gateway leads to the Orange Court. The fruit and flowers of these trees perfume the air with incense. High up, backed by the blue sky, the palm trees are waving in the wind. Fountains are plashing. Once they served to refresh burnoosed dusty and foot-sore pilgrims come from afar to serve their God here. The faithful bathed in these fountains before purifying their souls in Allah's house. — Now the fountains are perpetually surrounded by the town maidens who come to fetch a cooling draught in their finely curved earthenware jugs. The impression on entering the forest of columns that support the mosque is both unexpected and overpowering. Is this not a petrified palm wood? And does not this stony grove incorporate the conception of infinity? There is a mystic dusk among these columns that lends to them an endless space of silence and eternity: the symbol of belief. It is to the credit of the victorious Christians that they did not cool their religious ardour by destroying this Islamitic place of worship. It is extremely regrettable that their descendants have treated this monument of Mohammedan culture with such carelessness. The mosque became a Christian church. Where once the cry of "Allah illah Allah!" echoed thousandfold, "Praise be the Lord!" is now sung. The first deed was to erect altars in the door-niches. Then seventy pillars were laid low, and a choir with the High- Altar erected in their stead: a church within a church. Charles V. was reluctant to give his permission for these alterations. When he came to Cordova and saw what had been done, he exclaimed in perturbation: "What you are building can be seen any where. You have destroyed what was unique in the world.*) Untouched in its pristine beauty, hidden in semi-darkness, not far from the Holy of Holies of the Christian church, stands the Holy of Holies of the mosque, the Mihrab or prayer-niche in which the Koran was kept. It is a jewel of Moorish art. Whereas the rest of the mosque columns are connected by double horse-shoe arches, banded in red and white, here the beautifully chased dentated arches rise straight to the lovely curved dome. The niche socle is white marble of lace-like texture above which a profusion of colours glow: blood-red, rust hrown, dark blue violet interwoven with a sublime sheen of gold. Perhaps the mosaic walls and lettered scrolls upon them have in some mystical manner caught the light of the thousand swinging lamps that once had cast their soft rays through the dim shades of space. For six long centuries all these glowing colours were hidden. Before Cordova was surrendered to the Christians the sanctuary was walled up. It was only discovered in 1815. We pass entranced along the colonnaded aisles, enthraled by the wondrous beauty of this miracle in stone. It is like awakening from a fantastic dream to set foot again in the blinding sun of the silent town that has become the shrine of one of the most precious jewels in the world (50 — 60). o Moorish scenes far from the beaten track: A burning hot day in August. — The air trembles in the heat over the olive trees. The day hangs heavy in the blue vault of heaven. 1 had been wandering for long long hours, when all of a sudden my eyes were caught by a fata morgana: wafted perhaps from the coast of Morocco? No, it was *) Cordova was taken soon after the battle of Jerez (711). Abd-ur-rahman L, the founder of the Omaijaden dynasty began to build the mosque in 785. The columns (their number is stated at between 1400 and 1500) were collected from buildings in all countries: Byzantium, Rome, Carthage, Nimes, Narbonne, etc.; hence their variety of form and material (marble, porphyry, jasper, alabaster). In 1235 Cordova was taken by the Christians. ,The erection of the choir was begun in 1523. no mirage. Impossible! Yet it did not disappear as 1 approached. Strange indeed was the scene: houses scattered like dice over a mountain (91). A timid lad of whom I asked the name of the spot, slunk shyly past me. My map was of no assistance to me. At last 1 was informed that 1 had arrived at "la muy noble y bel ciudad Mochagar, Have y amparo del reino de Granada". "What," I asked "this hamlet still calls itself the key and guardian of the kingdom of Granada? But that kingdom was destroyed half a thousand years ago when the Moors were driven from Granada." A miracle must have happened here that time should have remained stationary. Here was the pure Moorish impress. Most of the houses are windowless. The flat roofs are sometimes the road to the higher houses, and always their foot-stool. And although the water of baptism has wetted the women's hair, they pass veiled in the Moorish fashion along the streets. With tucked up skirts and naked legs they step lightly along the steep alleys, returning from the fountains with water amphorae. They eye the foreign trespasser suspiciously and curiously. And when I requested the veiled women to let me take their photographs they stared at me, for they had never even seen a camera. 1 showed them a picture, and explained that 1 wanted to have theirs too. They refused. Finally one girl agreed. But an old scold hurried up and beat her for her frowardness: throwing herself away like that! In this Christian country 1 found shamefacedness and adherence to the laws of Mohammed. Let no mortal body serve as an image! An old man with whom 1 spoke about this incident told me that if a girl no longer veiled her face, but hid her legs, there was not much left to spoil about her. But 1 was determined that I would not leave without a picture of one of the veiled beauties. At last I succeeded, with the consent of the mother of one of the girls. The eye of my camera winked slyly when I took my snap-shot. In thanking the girl, 1 held out my hand, but she seemed quite taken aback, and hid her hands behind her. 1 pressed her to shake hands. I should not do her any harm. But her mother apologized- for her saying: "No, she doesn't mean to be rude, but it is not the custom in our country for a girl to let a man touch her hand before marriage." Perhaps this little incident explains the once much-used expression employed by wooers "will you give me your daughter's hand?" (90) The Palm Forest of Elche (100 — 103). The only palm forest in Europe. It numbers more than 115000 trees, and is also a Moorish heritage. They caused the water to flow to this spot from a distance of 5 kilometres in order to create an oasis here in the desert — for the district is to-day little else. Palms must grow with their roots in the water and their crowns in the glaring sun. For years no rain has fallen on this spot. The view is strange from the church -tower down on white houses over which the palm tops are spread like a canopy. Beyond the palm forest the grey-yellow desert plain surrounds this isle of peace. In the far distance the blue ocean sleeps in proud majesty. Death and life are here in close juxtaposition. Easter in Seville. The train is rushing southwards over the airid Castillian high plateaux, which in summer are as empty as a beggar's palm. The bare treeless Mancha has put on its modest spring garment which now shows in the distance like delicate green velvet. A short-lived joy! In but a few weeks the scorched ground will again be covered with a yellowish -gray pall. XI At present the fresh breeze comes down from the mountains of the Sierra de Guadar- rama. Scarcely, however, has the train wound its way through the wild canons of the Sierra Modena, when spring opens wide her gate. A warm damp hot-house atmosphere is wafted into the carriage windows. We are soon surrounded by meadows that are like a great flower-garden in which the blood -red poppy and golden-yellow primrose struggle for supremacy. Once in a while a village is seen dreaming like Sleeping Beauty among the flower groves. For a long stretch agaves and cacti fringe the track. Finally Seville sends forth her messengers in the shape of blossoming rose-gardens and orange groves laden with their ripe golden fruit. An ancient mangolia stretches a rosy blossom branch towards us, lingering on in its old age in this scene so full of yearning life. Tall slim palms nod to us, and yet new children of Flora crowd upon us to bring us Seville and spring's friendly welcome. Heedlessly the train clatters past all this beauty towards the white maze of Seville's houses, above which towers that beautiful emblem of the town, the Giralda. At last the engine snorts noisily into the station. But how different is everything to-day in front of the station. No yelling hotel porters, no carriages awaiting the passengers, no electric-car with clanging bell, no hooting of motor-cars. — The square is lifeless at this early afternoon hour. It is the "Semana santa", Passion -week, that has cast this almost oppressive spell of silence over the great city. Even the brazen voices of the church -bells are muffled, as though that had gone into sacred mourning. The wooden banging of the Matraca calls hoarsely to prayers with dry and unmelodious voice. The further you penetrate into the town, the more the sacred holiday stillness is ousted. All Seville is crowding, chattering and laughing to the Cathedral to see the procession. At last you have to stop. There is no getting through the impenetrable human wall. It is a strange procession that is passing by, as though conjured up from the Middle Ages. Huddled figures stalk past slowly and stiffly. They appear like spectres. Old pictures of witches and inquisitionary trials are recalled to my mind, for nowhere else have 1 ever seen such terrifying apparitions; never in life. Black cowls are wrapped around their bodies, and on their head are huge black conical hats a yard high. Long sable cloths, in which only two eyelets are pierced, are suspended over their faces down to their waists. A corded rope is wound round the penitential garments. The hands of the apparitions clasp rough wooden crosses, or metal staves, as tall as themselves. These figures march in front of a portable dais on which a life-like statue of the Virgin Mary is enthroned clad in magnificent garments thickly encrusted with gold. — The procession stops. The dais is lowered. A young woman steps from the crowd, turns her eyes to the Queen of Heaven and sings her praise. When the twenty or thirty bearers who carry the heavy dais on their shoulders, and who are hidden by drapery suspended round the frame, have rested enough, the signal to start is given by knocking on the front of the dais. A jerk, and the procession moves on a few paces. One religious body of brethren follows on the heels of the other. Each of them wear their own distinctive multicoloured badges. Some have a blue pointed hat, others white, brown, violet or other coloured garments. Next to a father his ten-year old son in the same vestments is often seen, as well as the miniature penitent of fifteen in the procession. The various brotherhoods are filled with an ardent ambition to outdo the others in the magnificence of their Pasos as the daises are called. The whole story of the Passion from Gethsemane to the burial of our Lord, is shown on them as they pass before our eyes. — Of course the clergy in full canonicals, as well as the town and state officials are also represented in the procession. At intervals, groups of Roman legionaries of Christ's Xll day apper, then angels, and St. Veronica carrying the kerchief. Interspersed bands bray and flourish the same march without cess. Each brotherhood in the procession is cerimoniously received by the chief authority of the town in Constitution Square which looks like a huge theatre auditorium. It is filled with rows of chairs of which not a single one is empty. The surrounding bal- conies are a sea of heads. Hour by hour passes. Night falls. And now hundreds of wax-candles blaze forth on the daises, and each penitent carries a gigantic taper in his hand. Thus this endless and mysterious procession of lights moves on to the cathedral, passes through its magni- ficent nave, and out again through the other doors into the streets. The cathedral has opened its treasure-house for the "Semana santa" and displayed all its pomp. The candles of the gigantic bronze candelabrum (the renowned Tene- brario) as well as on the altar the sacred wax-candle weighing several hundredweight. A huge sepulchre has been erected to the glory of Christ, in which the Holy of Holies is kept during Passion week. Hundreds of lamps and candles illuminate the golden- white four-storey edifice, which is over 30 metres high, and flooded with a wondrous glowing halo. The celebrated miserere of Eslava is performed in the cathedral on the night of Good Friday. But, alas! it is impossible to enjoy the sacred tunes owing to the general noisy inattention around. Weary forms are sitting on the steps of the chapels and around the grave of Columbus. Here a mother is suckling her infant, there an animate heap of rags is wrapt in sleep, and all the while there is a continual pushing and elbowing to get to the front. However we must not judge of all this in the light of serious northern church festi- vals. This would only lead us to drawing both severe and wrong conclusions. Perhaps this manner may be an historical development. Has not our Teutonic Christianity also wedded itself to much that is ancient heathenism? For instance Christmas and the winter solstice festival. Much that is Moorish obtains in Spain to this day. Perhaps even — unconsciously — the conception of the purpose of a place of worship. Was not the mosque often enough a secular place of meeting for the Moslems, and at the same time a university? However, enough of conjectures. It is a fact that the worship of the Lord and the Virgin Mary is for the Spaniard a service of love. Whether the occasion be Trinity or Passion week, it is one of joyful praise of Heaven. I shall always remember one quiet hour permeated with the holy spirit of Easter among these joyful and yet pious Easter days. — 1 had mounted the Giralda, that jewel of erstwhile Moorish minaret architecture, the cathedral tower. At my feet lay the white sea of houses. The town was bathed in sunshine. The beautiful blue dome of heaven spread its mighty arch over the holiday-making land as though protecting and blessing it. The faint music of the mass far below was wafted up to me, when suddenly a booming vibration filled the air, and all the tower bells, which had been silent so long, peeled out across the sunlit country: Christ is arisen! The sister bells of all the other towers echoed the message across the spring clad country. o The Patio (40, 42 — 49). It is a favourite expression to call Seville the town of bright court-yards. Those court-yards which light and fill the house with sunshine. The Sevillian house, or rather the Andalusian house, is not a building such as our houses, fronting on the street, but one that fronts to an inner court, turning its back on the street. The outsides of the houses are bare of ornament, almost windowless; a secret to the passer-by. All their beauty is displayed yardwards. There wealth obtains in all XUl its pomp, and poverty unfolds its modest ornaments. The narrow passage — the Zaguan — leading from the street to the court is closed by a railed gate. The gallery — : to which access is gained by steps leading from the cqurt — is supported by columns. The rooms of the upper stories lead to the gallery. To cool the air there is a fountain in the middle of the court surrounded by palms, araucarias, laurels, orange-trees, oleanders and flowers in pots. The walls are covered with multi-coloured tiles. Against them brightly up- holstered furniture, chairs, and sometimes even a piano; the inevitable guitar is in a corner. Climbing plants festoon the court. Practically this is the centre of the whole family life. Friends are received here, hours passed in argument, singing, music and dancing — whether in company or alone, dreaming away the hours, listening to the plashing of the fountain, it is in the court — the soul of the house — that most time is spent. o There is nothing commonplace about Spanish houses. They still retain their pecu- liarity impressed on them by the patina of age. Many have tumbled down under the burden of years. Many are dead; but they "died in beauty". The period of their prospe- rity still lingers on in the churches and ornate facades of deserted squares. Toledo is the most Spanish of towns. It was once the heart of the country, pulsating with the great rhythm of epic history. But its heart no longer beats. Resting on steep granite hills above the deep Tajo valley stands the yellow-grey heap of houses as though rooted in the rocks. Two gigantic bridges span the river. Narorw alleys lead up hill and down dale; many-cornerd and dark. The whole town seems in a fighting mood. Huge gateways and towers, the houses fort-like, the doors studded with heavy nails. Indeed, there is hardly a town that has seen so many battles rounds its walls. Spain's history has passed over it with heavy steps. And to-day? Rent walls, ruin and silence: the town the accumulated wreckage of a thousand years (139-148). Segovia, Toledo's sister city is situated similarly on rocks arising abruptly from the plain. It is dominated by a great cathedral tower, and guarded by the well-proportioned Alcazar which stands forth like a fairy castle. A miraculous building, erected one would say to brave eternity in the days when Christ was born. But otherwise Segovia is different to Toledo. It is the Nuremberg of Spain, gay in its leafy setting (157 — 164). There are other brave old companions-in-arms of these two veterans, dating from ancient war days: circumvallated Avila (165 — 169), Cuenca and Albarracin with their swallow-nest houses clinging to lofty crags (120, 121, 192 — 194), Daroca protected by two mountains over which the whole of the battlemented walls have climbed (195 — 197), Alquezar in the Pyrenees, the northern outpost of the Moors in Spain (210 — 212), Sigiienza, lerica, Trujillo, Caceres, Niebla, Carmona, Martos, Antequera, and many bold castillos. Ronda is the most boldly situated town lying on a high plateau encircled by^a wide mountain arena (62, 63). Running through the rocky plateau is a huge crevice which looks as though it had been split in rage by the mighty fists of giants. The streams thunder down in all their wild force over the boulders, hammer threaten- ingly against the rocky walls, break into scintillating spray, rush round in whirlpools, and hurry on their course. And in close proximity to all this turmoil, the rocky walls stand unshaken in their immobility against the sky-line, an emblem of eternity cast in stone by the hand of God. The rainbow in the spray has been copied by man in the shape of a bridge high over the abyss joining the rocky heights upon which the town stands. XIV Let us pass from these stubborn old battle towns to a more smiling scene: San Sebastian (286—290) known throughout the world for its incomparably beautiful situation on the sea. The view from Monte Ulia, a mountain guarding the entrance to this para- dise, is wonderful beyond words. Here nature has modelled and painted a masterpiece. The sea hugs the land in two gracefully curved bays and catches the beauties of the town in the reflection of its waters. Cave-dwellings and the simple life. — This time 1 decided to leave the destination of my wanderings to chance. 1 could have chosen no better guide. I set out long before the dew was dry, or the sun had risen. The palm trees were just beginning to shake themselves in the early breeze when I approached a strange rocky landscape. Dark holes in the rock stared at me like dead eyes. But nevertheless life was hidden there. Human forms stepped out of the holes to greet the morn. What 1 saw was a towering rock wall with hundreds of cave- dwellings next to each other and over each other. Some of them were even five storeys high and approached from the outside (92). Where the rocks were too steep, the approaches had been dug from the inside, and upper storeys created with outlook holes and loggias high up in the rocks. Tunnels had been cut in the soft stone to get from one rock valley to the other. The children were running about in the costume God had given them. But it is not to be supposed that they were troglodytes, and as unaware of culture as those who lived in the ice period. High on the rocks you can read in large black letters on a white background "El Retiro". Every Spaniard knows, at least by name, Madrid's beautiful park the Retiro. For this reasons it seems somewhat of a joke to suddenly come across the name in such a spot far up on the rocks. El Retiro, like Sanssouci, means solitude, retreat, place of rest. An enterprising hotel-keeper has levelled his portion of rocks into roof-terraces where the favourite gossip hour (tertulla) is spent, skittles played, and merry dances performed. Hence the alluring words on the wall for the benefit of passers-by. On another rock is graven the brief significant inscription: "Dios, Pan y Cultura" (God, Bread, and Culture. 92-95). " During the course of another stroll 1 was again equally surprised. I saw smoke arising in the distance from ground that looked like fantastic mountain erosions. Surely this was not the site of volcanic activity? Indeed this was out of the question. And on drawing nigh I discerned human figures moving among the columns of smoke. 1 then saw to my astonishment that little smoking towers — not unlike champagne corks in shape — were chimneys projecting out of the ground. 1 had again strayed among cave- dwellers. What Homeric primitiveness was there! The valleys are the streets, the mountain sides the fronts of the houses, the pinnacles villas. Front gardens are once and a while supplied by giant cacti and spiky agaves. My wanderings in this interesting world- forgotten primitive spot lasted for hours as I passed up and down the so-called streets (96—99). My greetings were met with a cheerful response, and 1 was invited to enter a cool cave, provided with a drink of fresh water, and shown the treasures of the modest household: the bed on the ground, the hearth with a copper kettle, the earthenware pitcher, the stool, the oil-lamp and the image of the patron saint. "Now as to work?" 1 asked. "Well we don't do too much in that way. We culti- vate what we need over there where the river runs. We make bricks for the towns where the people live in houses." — Truly a picture of an enviable state of modest XV requirements. There are still those who are satisfied with the tub of Diogenes. Indeed you may find many such all over Spain. I remember when at a little railway station finding only a lad deep in his after-dinner nap. For the rest, there was no one else to take my luggage, so 1 woke him up and asked him to help me. He stretched himself in all the bliss of laziness, took a couple of coppers out of his pocket, and showing them to me said: "I've earned 25 centimos to-day already; that's all 1 need," turned over, and went to sleep again. 1 continued on my way recalling the words of the Indian philosopher: "He who is without wants in nearest to God." There is no cause to shrug one's shoulders. Diligence and happiness are but relative conceptions. And just the poorest in Spain understand the art of doing nothing combined with extracting joy from next to nothing. They need a little shade in summer, and the sunshine in winter; a piece of bread, a tomato, a drop of wine. The whole earth with the sky for a roof is their bed -room; the highroad their field of labour. There is no master they would exchange positions with; they are their own masters; masters of their own time — verily a great possession this. Why then should they not spend it generously? "He whom God helps will go further than he who rises betimes" runs a Spanish proverb. And the Bible tells us: "Behold the fowls of the air; for they sow not, neither do they reap, nor gather into barns; yet your heavenly Father feedeth them." o Feria in Sepiilveda. — A bull-fight. There is high holiday in Sepulveda, (172, 173) an ancient little town far from the turmoil of the great world, and far even from the railroad, which indeed is nearly 100 kilometres away. The feria is the greatest day of the whole year. Men and women crowd into the place on horses and donkeys. Old friends meet again. Once more they see 'life'. Above all it is the bull -fight that is the greatest attraction. It has been for weeks already the only topic worth speaking about. As however our little town has no arena, the market-place is used instead. All day the lively rat-tat of hammers is heard there. The windows of the picturesque dignified old town-hall gaze smilingly down on the lively scene. At last there is really something worth looking at again. Another long tedious sleepy year has gone by. There is hardly any one who does not go the hour's walk outside the town to ad- mire the bulls which have come from a long way off, and for the present are being kept at pasture. When the great day has come, every one is up with the sun. The arrival of the savage animals is feverishly expected. The bravest show their courage by going forth to meet the procession. A cloud of dust on the highway announces its approach. And finally forms emerge from it. At the head a picador on horseback with a lance, behind him the black bodies of the bulls surrounded by tame steers, and followed by a second picador. As they rush through the narrow streets to the market-square a mighty cry goes up: "Los toros! Los toros!" Shouting, whistling, howling, yelling, and a general pandemonium rends the welkin. Finally the bulls are secured, and it is only in the afternoon that the longed-for hour arrives. The forenoon has its own pleasures. Young men demonstrate their daring by teasing a young bull specially selected for the purpose, and earn acclamation or mocking laughter as the case may be. These young heroes try to .put into practice what they have seen at the Torero; only it is less dangerous. No blood is shed, only torn trousers and bruises are the honorofic mementoes of the great day (174, 175). XVI My thoughts naturally harked back to the first bull-fight 1 had seen — in Madrid. The impression was stupendous: fifteen thousand gay spectators in the great sweep of the arena all impatient for the nerve-racking fight to begin. The arena was filled with the babble of voices. It was a chaos of colours, cloudy lace mantillas, flower-em- broidered shawls, fans swaying nervously, jet-black glowing eyes. — Shouts of applause greeted the bull-fighters. Yells saluted the great bull as he rushed in. The game was a risky one for life or death. Deeds of audacity were met with idolatrous cheers, the timid with desolating laughter. All of a sudden a coloured form is tossed into the air. A single scream from a thousand throats. — "Is he dead?" "No!" A sigh of relief. — "Go on!" — The condemned bull is mad with rage, his opponent cold as steel. He wields the mortal instrument, the sword flashes, and a hurricane of applause bursts forth for the victor and his tottering victim. White handherchiefs flutter from every seat like pigeons. Hats are waved, a shower of flowers descends, and the feted hero returns thanks, nonchalent and proud. — The trumpets blare and a new fight begins (125, 126). O Crossing the Picos de Europa. — Masses of high mountains with peaks about 2700 metres high rises among the Asturian Cantabrian coast range. They bear the proud name of Picos de Europa (The Peaks of Europe). They are the Dolomites of Spain. But they exceed these considerably in inaccessability. Tourist facilities in Spain are of a very primitive nature. For this reason there are no shelter huts for mountaineers in the Picos de Europa, and there are likewise no trained guides. There are it is true some game-keepers. Shepherds and miners acquainted with individual parts of the mountains act once in a while as guides. 1 had been at the gateway of the Picos de Europa when at Covadongo the cele- brated place of pilgrimage. Since then the desire had never left me to become acquainted with this demure mountain beauty so alluring and yet so stand-offish in her loneliness. Thus 1 started for the mountains. My path led me from Unquera through the Deva valley to Potes at the foot of the Picos. 1 very soon noticed that my task would be no easy one, for shortly after leaving Panes the track winds through a mighty and deep valley known as the Desfiladero de la Hermida. My reception was not a friendly one. The rocky guardian of the valley looked down and frowned at me, and the sky treated me at intervals to a cold shower-bath. In Potes the clouds were low down on the mountain sides on which 1 was going to test my prowess the next day. But 1 was so enchanted with the spot, that I willingly renounced the view for that day. The little town is a very ancient spot. It must once have been the seat of many a knightly family. This is attested to by the various Spanish coats of arms on the houses. But those times are now no more. Where once Spanish grandees strutted by with buckled shoes and sword, clodhopping peasants plod along. And the present generation is hardly aware of the plentitude of beauty surrounding it. Bold bridges span the glen. Narrow collonades with overhangig balconies cling to the steep river bank. A multitude of archways offer innumerable enchanting glimpses. A high watch-tower guards the houses clustering at its base. Before the sun had rissen on the morrow 1 had set out. Dark and dismal-looking clouds hung low over the landscape. But the Picos pinnacles had rent them asunder, and suddenly they stood forth in the glory of the rising sun. Dark night lay behind me as 1 marched towards the sunlight. XVII My guide met me by arrangement at Espinama. He was a grey-headed man with weather-beaten face and smiling eyes. His feet were clad in leather sandals, and under his arm was an ancient umbrella. We soon^discussed the itinerary, filled our rucksacks and started for the Puerto de Aliva. The old song came back to me: — The sun on my way In his golden aray Is my fellow and guide. He casts my shadow O'er flowery meadow. 1 wander world-wide. As we passed on our way, the houses of the village became smaller and smaller. We soon left the last tree behind, and our path led over sweet green slopes, till they too were lost under the stony debris of rocky giants. There was a hunting-lodge close to the foot of the Pena vieja cliff which the king of Spain visits nearly every year when chamois hunting. The day drew slowly to its end. Great streamers curled round the Pena vieja, pale shadows floated by like silver grey cobwebs, and the mist rose and fell with every breath of wind. The billowing fog had already wrapped us in its mighty veil when we reached the miners' inn at Lloroza. An overseer invited us to spend the night there. And we were right glad to find shelter, in spite of the fact that both the hut and its furniture looked like the first attempts of primitive man to scale the ladder of civilization. The night we spent on the hard ground was not a very restful one, and we were glad when the approach of day called us from our layer. When we left the hut a surprising spectacle met our eyes. The fog which had deprived us of any possibility of obtaining a view the evening before now lay at our feet in the valley. The summits of the mountain rose like islands in the sea of mist. The moment had arrived when day struggled with night for predominance. The full -moon's silver disc hung in the deep blue of the western sky, and the morning star held its own for a while against the rising light in the east. At last both moon and star turned to pale glass when the sun sent forth his herald rays. The horizon was tinged with pink; long red streamers fluttered from the windows of heaven to greet us, and then the sun rose above the misty expanse, gilded the crests, flooded the eastern pinnacles with the glory of his light, and glowed on the rocky wall to which our hut clung. O wonderful silence of that hour! "A new day beckons us to other shores." For yet a short distance the beaten path used by the king when stalking showed us the way. Then we bent our steps over pathless boulders, sharp edged rocks, mounds of debris, snow-fields strewn among the stony desert with its jagged rock walls and towers. Whole herds' of chamois stared in astonishment at the strange intruders in their paradise. For the rest, they showed little inclination to run away. The mountain fast- ness became progressively more barren and wild in its aspect. An infinitely dismal mood seemed to brood o'er the scene. Yet the magnificence of these mountains aug- mented from minute to minute. Grotesque stone giants — cast in burning ore by the furnace of high heaven — stood guarding this great grave of nature. Woe to the wanderer whose ignorant footsteps err here! Death lies in ambush in the deep crevices and chasms. At last we halted in front of the monarch of the magnificent mountain empire. His throne stands high in everlasting snow; a golden crown is on his head. His picture is known to all from the most distant mountain valley to the shores of the restless ocean. All admire his beauty, all know his name : Naranjo de Balnes. XVlll This huge rock colossus rises 600 metres over its surroundings. Its perpendicular walls show hardly a crevice. And it seems incredible that nevertheless that bold moun- taineer the Marques de Villaviciosa de Asturia climbed to its summit. On our wanderings round this mighty and stubborn rock tower we seemed to be lightened of all earthly burdens high up there in the solitude above the depths of humanity. We climbed up to the Ceredo tower. The rocks were as sharp as knives. Again the ghostly mist rose from the valleys and whirled spectrally around us. It was 5 o'clock and the Cares valley with Cain to where our steps were directed were not yet in sight. — 1 asked my companion: "How far yet?" "A few hours more" was the not very consoling reply. — The mist, that enemy of mountaineers was getting thicker. And ere long we could not see twenty paces ahead. The feeling of insecurity grew apace. And the sensation of climbing with mist-bound eyes was terrible. Again 1 questioned my guide. "Severo, is there no hut or shelter on the way?" — "1 don't think so." Once more long minutes of silent groping. At last we were, at any rate for a while, rid of the stony region. Here and there a rocky projection, but it was quite impossible to tell if we were not suspended on it hundreds of meters over a yawning abyss. It was impossible to see anything through that fog. And at a quarter past six it was pitch dark. Suddenly we came across a few low rough huts of unhewn stone huts sheltered by a rock-wall. There at last we could spend the night. But my guide wanted to go on. "Stop!" 1 cried. "Can we get to Cain to night?" — "I don't know." "Well then we'll stay here!" Suiting the action to the word, we crept into one of the huts, crouched down, and slept fitfully through ten endless hours of night. But even they passed. The morning meant a dangerous and nasty descent. We waded knee-deep in wet grass, clambered over ledges with fog all around us. Woe to us had we slipped! Then we got lost and had to stop and climb back with the greatest care. Then we slid down a stony gully in which nearly every step set rocks thundering to the depths below. At last the moist grey mist began to lift. A rift showed the bed of the valley far beneath us, and, as we thought, houses. But no, we were mistaken. They were huge boulders, the wreckage of some avalanche that filled the upper hollow. Down and down we scrambled till finally we broke through the foggy screen. Our goal was at our feet. Cain, strangely walled in by precipitous rocky cliffs rising sheer 1500 metres high. We were there! And we could rest. Some bread and butter was all we could find in the whole village to appease our hunger. We would gladly have rested there a day, but the place was too inhospitable. We had therefore to shoulder our rucksacks again. The distance we had climbed down the day before, we had to climb up again on the opposite rocks of the Pefia santa. Hours and hours of strenuous efforts passed till we reached the ridge. We re- descended valleywards in a drizzling rain. Lake Enol was the last spot of beauty to be hidden from our view. It was there we struck the main road, and then marched another 10 kilometres down to Covadonga which we reached as tired as dogs. Night had already cast her shadow over the valley, and the stars were beginning to shine forth. Welcoming lights were seen burning in Covadonga. But it seemed as though we should never reach them. However the prospect of a bed lent us strength, and at half past eight we stumbled painfully over the threshold of a clean hospitable house. 1 went to bed exhausted, and my restless dreams were haunted with the beautiful and terrible wanderings in the Picos de Europa (266 — 274). o XIX My pilgrimage to the Yuste Convent (153). — I left soon after midnight, for marching is delightful in southern nights when the glittering stars shed their soft light from the great vault of heaven. In the soutjh the cool night is succeeded by summer days that are the misery of the pedestrian. — The hours melted by but slowly in the furnace heat of the day. I was beset with all possible ills: infernal heat, thirst, and no water. Not a tree or a shrub was to be seen for miles; no shade; hours without passing a house; not a soul abroad; the melancholy mood that comes in the train of solitude. My path was obstructed by a river — at any rate, water — but nary a bridge! So 1 had to wade, and continue my journey. At last 1 spied a shepherd. What joy to feel that 1 was no longer alone! "Is this the right road to Yuste?" 1 enquired of him. — "Yes, but where doest thou come from, and what countryman art thou?" The good fellow addressed me with the fraternal tutoyer, as though we were brothers. When he heard that I was a German he was quite surprised. He willingly agreed to accompany me to the next village, and was quite curious to hear something about my country. The news of the war had penetrated to this remote part of the world. It was charming to listen to the questions of this child of nature. He knew nothing of the three Rs; had never seen a railway, had never left the neighbourhood of his village. We soon met another shepherd on the mountain- side who was just as pleased and interested as the other. And 1 must say, that wherever 1 was in Spain, all classes of the population were friendly towards Germans. It was not long before we encountered other wayfarers who joinnd us, for Sunday enticed them into the village. My entrance was therefore almost a triumphal procession. We entered the inn, ordered some wine, and sat down to a well-earned rest. When 1 wanted to pay the landlord, he refused, telling me that Pepa had settled the bill. However, this wouldn't do. And at last he agreed to my paying on condition that the next time I returned 1 should be his guest. They all shook hands with me most-heartily and 1 continued joyfully on my way. At last 1 stood in front of the monastery gates. They were opened, and the white haired abbot rode out on a little donkey, holding a green parasol over his head. I saluted the venerable Father and enquired of him whether I could stay at the monastery for the night. "No", he replied, "impossible." — Discomfitted 1 exclaimed: "But where am 1 to go to-day? I have travelled fifty kilometres and have come from Navalmoral." — "What, on foot? Impossible!" "Yes, but I have. I am a German and want to see the spot which the emperor Charles V. exchanged for all the crowns in the world, and where he closed his eyes." — "You are a German? Of course you con't continue your journey." I was most kindly and touchingly taken care of. 1 was shown the monastery which had once been destroyed by the French. Decay and mould have continued the work of destruction. But nature's eternal youth triumphs victoriously amongst the ruins and beautifies the decay of age. And yet this is a place to think about the everlastingness of all things, of the end of all terrestial happiness. — Once that great monarch who had fled from the turmoil of the world had paced these halls. At supper, I, the infidel sat at the monks' board and was treated like a brother. The next morning I was awakened long hours before sunrise. A lay brother lit me with a lantern through the dark and ancient park. The monastery gate swung on its hinges, the latch fell heavily, and 1 was again out in the world all silvery with the moon- light. For a moment 1 stood entranced. — 1 heard the mass bell calling the monks to prayers. And the gates of Paradise were closed behind me. o xx The last echoes. — My wanderings through Spain filled me with the joy of life. She had become my second home. It was with a heavy heart that I left. "O follow me ye southern days 'Neath colder skies and paler stars. And fill my thoughts with golden rays!" The hour of departure had arrived. — It was a wonderful moonlight night in which the little Spanish steamer which was to bear me homewards sailed slowly out of Ferrol harbour. The moon cast a silver bridge over the water, and along it my thoughts fled back to other moonlight nights when she had often shown me the way in picturesque Spain. The lights along the coast shone like the eyes of anxious friends looking a last fare- well before darkness closed their lids. And then the little ship ploughed homeward through the eternal waters with the eternal sky above us, and the old old song of the waves accompanied me back to my familiar home. And now that days and weeks of cloudy skies hang heavily over my country where the sun is not so generous as in southern climes, my heart is filled with yearning for Spain, with nostalgia for the sun. — Then I look at my pictures, and we hold converse together, and re-live those unfettered days spent in wanderings in sun-kissed Spain. In this volume 1 send forth my sun harvest. May it cast its light in the hearts of many! May it tell of my love of Spain, and of my heartfelt thanks to her chivalrous people for all their kind hospitality! XXI ALPHABETICAL LIST OF NAMES AND PLACES Albarracin 192-194 Albufera 116 Alcala de Guadaira 71 Aldeanueva de la Vera 154 Algatocin 76 Alhambra 1-16, 22 Almazan 227 Alquezar 210-212 Andujar 44, 115 Antequera 64—66 Aranjuez 136—138 Arcos de la Frontera 48, 49, 72 Arranda de Duero 240 Autol 224, 225 Avila 165-169 Barcelona 200 Batuecas 260, 261, 263 Bielsa 213 Bilbao 284 Burgo de Osma 226 Burgos 234-238 Butron 277 Brachimafiasee 216 Caceres 83, 84 Candelario 252, 253 Cangas de Onis 274 Carmona 43, 70 Castellbo 208 Castellfullit 204 Cave Dwellings 92-99 Cenaruza 282 Cepeda 155 Chorro 73 Ciudad Rodrigo 250, 251 Coca 184-187 Cordoba 50-60 Cuenca 120, 121 Daroca 195-197 Debotes Valley 207 Durango 4 279, 283 Ecija 68, 69 Elche 101-103. Elorrio 285 Escorial 129-135 Fuenterabia 298 Gerona 202, 203 Granada 1—25 Guadalajara 178—181 Guadalest 118 Guadix 100 Giiejar-Sierra 77 Hermida 266 Hurdes 259 Jativa 111-113 )avea 108 Jerez de la Frontera 67 Jerica 191 La Alberca 254, 256, 257 Lagartera 150, 151 Madrid 126-128 Maladeta 219 Manaria 278 Manzanera 42 Martos 74, 75 Medinaceli 176, 177 Mochagar 91 Mogarraz 258 Mombeltran 183 Monte Agudo 1 19 Montserrat 201 Niebla 80, 81 Nuria 206 Ondarroa 276 Orihuela 104-107 Oviedo 264, 265 Pancorbo 231-233 Pasages 291-296, 304 Penafiel 182 PenaMontafiesa 214 Pic de Aneto 217, 218 Pic du midi 216 Picos de Europa 266—274 Pontevedra 301 Potes 270-273 Pyrenees 205-219 Ronda 62, 63 Sagunt 109, 110 Salamanca 246—249 San Esteban de Gormaz 229, 230 San Juan de Plan 209 San Sebastian 286—290 Santander 275 Santiago de Campostela 300 Sarragoza 220, 221 Segovia 157—164 Segretal 205 Sepulveda 172-175 Seville 28-41 Sierra Nevada 79 Sigiienza 188-190 Soria 228 Tarifa 45, 46 Tarazona 223 Tarragona 198, 199 Toledo 139-148 Toro 244 Trujillo 85-87 Turregano 170, 171 Valencia 114, 117 Valladolid 241-243 Vigo 303 Yuste 153 Zafra 82* Zamora 245 xxu Towns: 2, 4, 16, 21, 28, 62-64, 72, 74, 80, 91-99, 120, 128, 139, 157, 166, 172, 191, 192, 195, 202, 204, 210, 223, 226, 227, 232, 246, 276, 286, 287, 290, 293. Gateways, Towers, Fortified Walls: 5, 29, 75, 80, 81, 85-87, 143, 167-169, 186-188, 193, 196. Streets, Squares: 24, 25, 31, 60, 65, 66, 75-77, 83, 85, 86, 147, 148, 154, 155, 163, 170, 173, 174, 175, 176, 189, 190, 193, 197, 198, 203, 208, 209, 211-213, 231-233, 247, 251, 253, 270-273, 278, 295, 296. Churches, Convents, Chapels, Cemeteries, etc.: 23, 31, 41, 50—59, 66, 67, 86, 108, 146, 147, 152, 153, 158, 164, 165, 169, 177, 199, 220, 221, 228, 229, 234-241, 244-246, 260-262, 264, 265, 282-285, 300. Squares, Public Buildings, Typical Houses: 6-15, 17-21, 30, 32, 33, 36-40, 68, 69, 114, 116, 117, 126, 127, 129, 130, 132, 134-137, 144, 162, 178-181, 250, 279, 280, 298. Courts (Patios) and Gardens: 6-8, 12-15, 17, 34, 35, 37, 40, 42-49, 58,69,82,90, 131, 138, 145, 179-181, 200, 238, 242, 243, 249, 298.. Stairways, Lattice Windows: 39, 68, 115, 144, 200, 203, 248. Fountains: 9, 12-15, 20, 37, 49, 60, 197, 232. Bridges: 63, 140-143, 268, 270, 274, 276. Castles (Castillos): 1-5, 22, 70, 71, 110-112, 118, 119, 141, 161, 170, 171, 182-186,277. Views of Landscapes: 2-4, 21, 62, 63, 72, 73, 79, 88, 92-99, 101-107, 113, 116, 194, 201, 204-207, 214-219, 224, 225, 230, 260, 263, 266-269, 274, 275, 286-289, 291, 292, 294, 299, 301-304. Costumes and Life of the People: 26, 27, 61, 78, 84, 90, 122-125, 149, 150, 151, 155, 156, 160, 174, 175, 222, 252, 254-259, 262, 281, 296, 297. I i 4 c 3 r. i £ 3 X V C D E £>0 s > •2 £0 C £0 c XI E < ■D •0 > X) It K o «(/) 0-D 3| (0 "D (D C (D 010 § Z EP E» etf) ?« 0D ii a T i > c Z 3 6 c c UJ 3 a 5 o ■9 ^ 0° Ov p ■_ u 3 C ■a S0 XI - E < '_i :•". •-• Granada-Alhambra. Granada AlhambratOrme The Alhambra Towers Torres de la Alhambra I torrioni dell'Alambra Les tours de lAlhambra Myrtenho' Granada-Alhambra Patio de los Arrayanes, The Myrtle Court La corte del mirtl La cour des myrtes 6 Granada-Alhambra •Myrtenhof The Myrtle Court Pati6 de los Arraya-ies La corte det mini La cour des myrtes Lowenhof Granada-Alhanribra Patio de los Leones La corte del leonl The Court of the Lions La cour des Lions 8 Granada'-Alhambra Der Lowenbrunnen Im Lowenhof The Lion Fountain In the Court of the Lions La fuente en el patio de. los Leones La fontana del leonl nella Corte omonlma La fontaine avec le bassin dans la cour des Lions Gerlchtshalle Granada-Alhambra Sala de la Justlcia Court of Justice La saia della Glustlzia La salle de justice 10 Granada-Alhambra Erker der Daraxa Bay Windows of the Daraxa Mtraaor de Daraxa II oadlgllone dl Daraxa Le pavilion de ia Daraxa Gartenhof dor Daraxa II glardlno dl Daraxa Granada-Alhambra Patio do Daraxa The Daraxa Court Un coin du Jardln do la Daraxa 12 Gartenhof der Daraxa II giardlno dl Daraxa Granada-Alhambra Patio de Daraxa The Daraxa Court Un coin du Jardln de la Daraxa 13 Granada-Alhambra lm Garten der Daraxa In the Daraxa Garden Patio de Daraxa II giardlno di Daraxa Dans le (ardin de la Daraxa 14 Granada'-Alhambra Zypressenhof The Cypress Court Patio de los clpreses 11 cortlle del cipressl La cour des cypres 1b Granada-Alhambra Bllck aus dom Putzzlmmer der Konlgln nach dsm Albalcln View of the Albalcln from the Queens Boudoir Vista desde el Pelnador de la Relna sobre el Albalcln Veduta dl Albalcln presa dallo spogllatola-della reglna Vue sur TAIbalcIn, prise du boudoir de la relna 16 Granada Generelifepalast Palace of the Gonorallfo Palaclo del Generallfe Palazzo del Generallfe Palais de Generallfe 17 Elntrittshalle Im Generality Granada Entrada del Cieneralite Entrance-Hall ot the Generality Ingresso nel Generallte Entree du Genet elite 18 Granada Saulenhalle im Generalife Colonnade In the Generality En el Generallte Colonnato nel Generalife Colonade dans le Generalife 19 : ..• . \ . .• . .. leneroilfegarten Qlardlno del Generaiife Granada £n el Jardln del Generaiife in the Garden of the Generaiife Jn ardln du Generaiife ,20 L CO • c Oil K it F ' 8* i« > < | t E -« C 4 B a v c f (0 -o 10 c 10 I- c 4 c I I? • ; e ■D i ? I t Si c X u t « = ° ?< E* ex c u :" i CD c D I T C a 2 4 - T "c > Granada SHck sua dem Ausslchtsturm des View of Aihambr* from the Outlook OaneraHto auf die Alhambra Tower of the Generalife Vista dead* el Mfrador del Generalife sobre la Alhambra Veduta deHAIambra dalla Vue sur i Alhambra, prise torre del Generalife '1u belvedere du Generalife 22 Granada Kathedrale-Capilla real - im Qltter die Leidensgeschichte Chrlstl a Catedrai-Capllla real - En la reja :attedrale - Capella Reale - Net r .ancello e rafflgurata la r»asslone dl Crlsto "he Cathedral - The Royal Chapel - In the Railing the Passion ia Paslon de Jesucristo A la Cathedrale - La Chapelle royale A.u haut de la grille sont representees es scenes de la Passion de Jesus-Christ 23 StraBe am Darrc Granada Calle del Darro CaMe del Darro Street on the Darro Rue longeant le Darro 2A » • Granada lm Albaicin , n tha Albaicin En el Albaicin Nell'Albaclne L'Albacin 25 Tanzenda Zlgeunarln Zlngara danzante Gltana ballando Gypsy dancing Osnsauss Gltana 26 Mlt dor Laute Con la chttarra Con la ourtarra Una jouausa Playing *ha Guttar da guiiare 27 Seville Blick vom Turm der Kathedrele (de' General View of the Town from the Giralda) Ober die Stad- Glralda Tower of the Cathedra Vista general, tomada desde la Glralda Veduta dalla citta dolln torre (la Giralda) Vue generate, prise de la Giralde (tour de la cathedrale) della Cattedrale 2{- ■ .■ ••-:• . . Sevilla Dor Qoldturm una die Kathedrale T he Golden Tower and the Cathedral ^.a torre de Oro y la Catedral . orre dell'ora e a Cattedrale La tour d'or et la cathedrale 29 Sevilla TeilstOck der Ratheustaseade Details of the City-Hall Facade Detalle de la fachada dei Ayuntamlento Dettagllo della tacclata del Munlciplo Detail de la facade de I hotel de vllle 30 •ft tltV-l ',>.::'. ! • • Sevilla Die Giralda (Turm dor Kathedrale) The Giralda (Cathedra! Tower) La Giralda La Giralda (la torre delta Cattedrale) La Giralda (Tour de la cathedrale) 31 Sevilla-Alcazar ■esanatensaal me Ambassadors' Hall Sala de Errtbajadores La Sala degli Ambasclaton Sails des ambassadeurs i2 Se villa- Alcazar Puppenhof The Dolts' Court Patio de las Munecas La Corte cleile bambole La cour des poup6es 33 Im Alcazargarten Nel glardtno deir Alcazar Sevilla En el )ardln del Alcazar In the Alcazar Garden Au lardln de I Alcazar 34 Sevilla lm AlcAzargarten , n the Alcazar Garden En el jardln del Alcazar Nel giardino dellAlcazar Au Jardln de I Alcazar 35 °ilatushaus _a Casa dl Pllato Sevilla Casa de Pllato Plate's House La malson do Pilate 36 > - ■ 3 o I • 5. c t 3 U a c I r c c j c E 1 f 3 t r c L 3 A c I E c 8- u * c u c • T> C in C ■ 3 r x r 3 I 37 Sevilla TClr zum Hof dos Pilatushauses Court Gates. Pilate's House Portada de la Casa de Pllato Porta dl accesso alia Corte della Entree de la cour de la malson Casa di Pllato de Pilate 38 Sevilla Pilatushaus - Fenstergltter Pilate's House - Grille Casa de Pilato - Reja Casa dl Pilato. Flnestra con grata FenStre grlllee de la malson de Pilate 39 Sevilla Hof lm Palast des Herzogs Alba Court In Duke Alba s Palace Patio en el palaclo del duqura de Alba La Corte net Cortlle del Duca d Alba Cour Interleure du palate du due d'Albe 40 c I > c 3 ■ E > I i c £ c I « ? u 3 if 55 e 2 c ? a 1 £ c 1 in tj ft c ? c 6 j (0 a « I p 41 In Martzanera A Manzanera En Manzanera In Manzanera Dans la Manzanera 42 Hof in Carmona Court in Carmona Patio en Carmona II cortlte in una casa di Carmona Une cour de maison a Carmona 43 Hof In Andujar Court In Andujar Patio en Andujar II cortlle In una casa dl Andujar Une cour de malson a Andujar 44 Hof In Tarlfa Court in Tarlfa Patio en Tarifa ll cortlle rn una casa dl Tarlfa Une cour do maison a Tarlfa 45 Hof in Tarlfa Court In Tarlfa Patio en Tarlfa II cortile in una casa di Tarlfa Une cour de maison a Tarlfa 46 Hof In Vojer Court ln V ajer Patio en Vejer II cortlle In una casa di Vejer Une cour de malson a Vejer 47 Hof In Arcos de la Frontera _, Patio en Arcos do la Frontera II cortlle In una casa dl Arcos de la Frontera Court In Arcos de la Frontera Une cour de malson a Arcos de la Frontera 48 1 c i • r o 8» 2 C E IL o c c 3 5 c o c IL « o c I I g.S c U it S T3 c IL • TJ a o < c I f o c ■ 51 Moscheo — Mlhrab (Allerheillgstes) La Moscheo..- Mlhrab (santuarto) Cordoba Mezqulta — Mlhrab Mlhrab Mosque (Holy of Hollos) La Mosquee: le Mlhrab Isanctualre) 52 Cordoba Moscheeinneres Interior of the Mosque En la Mezqulte L'interno della Moschee Interieur de la mosquee 53 Cordoba Uoschee - Bllck zum Hochaltar Mosque - View of the High Altar Mezqulta — Vista del altar mayor La Moschea: veduta dell'altar magglore La Mosqu6e: vue du maTtre-autel 54 Cordoba Moschee — Blick aus dem Chorelnbau ■ Mosque - View from the Choir Mezqulta - Vista desde el Coro La Moschoa; veduta del Coro La Mosquee vue de choeur 55 Cordoba Moschee - CapUla S Fernando Mosque — Capllla do St Fernando Mezqulta - Capllla de S. Fernando La Moschea: Cappella d» S. Ferdlnando La Moaquee: chapelle de Saint Ferdinand 56 Cordoba Moschoe — Capilla S. Fernando Mosque — Capilla de St. Fernando Mezqulta — Capilla de S. Fernando La Moschea: Cappella dl S. Ferdlnando La Mosquee: chapelle de Saint Ferdinand 57 Spit A H^ " ~^v W- ■ k>iifrr' HPT * "tj* v* ■ - - ... *• •*,., ■■£ ■ K ■ ■ ;, ^|g Mts^^^^ik^ ^^ Rs5£-^^ j ■ ^^HMH Cordoba Moschee — Orangenhof Mosque - The Court of Oranges Mezqulta — Patio de las Narenjas La Moschea: La corte degll arancl La Mosquee: cour des orangers 58 Elnsiedelei Eremo Cordoba Ermlta L'Ermltage Hermitage 59 c S c I 1 c I E c { 3 it •o u i c a if c S c £ 60 t 8 I I - s (0 a V ? s 2 o I c 3 1 a i 5 .3 CI c I u C 2 | e a ! 3! 3 o o I c 61 Ronda 62 Ronda 63 3 ex $ c < 64 I m *'j*: ,: * ...^W .&*?..*& Carmona — Castillo 70 Alcala de Guadaira — Castillo 71 Arcos de la Frontera 72 El Chorro 73 Martos 14 ••_.' : " Martos 75 Algatodn 76 Guejar- Sierra (Sierra Nevada) 77 In elner Wegschenke (Sierra Nevada) . In a Wayside Inn (Sierra Nevada) En una posada (Sierra Nevada) In una trattoria. Sierra Nevada Interleure d'une posada fauberge) de la Sierra Nevada 78 j ^ > a a> £ z z S S • ® «) W 1 £ c "0 3 s c e s > Z in d c UJ ! \ 6 S o • £ in a Z > ■ z 0) I V 79 Niebla 80 Niebla 81 Zafra Hof im Hospital S. Miguel Court In St. Miguel's Hospital Patio en el hospital de S. Miguel Ospedale di S. Mlchele. II cortlle Cour de I'hopltal Salnt-Mlckel 82 C&ceres Wassertragerlnnen Portatrlcl d'acqua C&ceres Mujeres con Jarros de agua Water - Carriers Porteuses d'eau 84 3 <7 u c I) a • v c e c > ■ E g » c a. o c Q N s a a e Q a e I 85 Santlagotor La porta di Santiago Trujillo Puorta de Santiago Santiago Gate La porta Saint-Jacques 86 *V*>5.:^ • • • • • . • • •■ • •• • ••• Altes Stadttor Trujillo Puerto antlgua Old Town-Gate Un'antlca porta della clrta Viellle porte d'entree 87 c I i f a a Hi £ 3 c H a 1 I c c T c i I j X 1 £ c •c I? ! ir UJ 5 < c I E c 3 ID I E I a ■D O K C si « 3 E ■D 1 88 3 V 1 £ 5 o 8 c c 1 ID i c T, c i E i E ■ ■ c i i > 3 ■ c 5 3 S E i u. D L- 3 J, 3 | £ a in *^ ii c ■ £ 3 in 1 « c o p c s £ e c 3 T> E Hi i C 89 Elne dor noch heut mauriach verschlelert Moorish women of Christian persuasion who gehenden Chrlstenfrauen In Mochagar-Vejer still wear the veil In Mochagar-Vejer Mujer en Mochagar-Vejer llevando la cara tapada como las marroquinas Una donna crlstlana che Une des femmes chr6tlennes qui vont va ancor oggl velata encore voilees aujourd'hul comma au all'uso marocchlno temps- des Maures d'Espagne 90 L. (0 0) (d r o o 5 91 Hahlenfels {Prov. Almoria) Alio In die sem Werk wledergegebenen Hohlen slnd nlcht vorgeschlchtlich; sle warden noch jetzt gegraben und bewohnt. Cuevas en las rocas. Caverne nella roccla (Provincia d Almerla) Tutte' le caverne riprodotte In quest' opera non sono di formaz'one prelstorlca, ma si contlna a scavarle anche al glorno d'oggi Cave Dwellings (Province of Almerla) None of the caves shown In this book are prehistoric. They are still escavatec and Inhabited (Prov. de Almerla) Cavernes dans le roc. (Province d Almerlai Toutes ces cavernes ne sont pas des for- mations prehistoriques; on en creuse main tenant encore pour les habiter. 92 E 01 c = HI Q > i ■ E < v « u c > I < D > c < ■ 1 c 1) c t > i 93 Hohlenfela (Prov. Almerla) Cave Dwellings (Province of Almerie Cuevas en las rocas (Prov de Almerta^ Caverne nella roccla (Provlncla dAlmeria) Cavernes dans le roc (Province dAlmeria'; 94 Hdhlenfels (Prov. Almerla) Cave Dwellings (Province of Almerla) Cuevas en las rocas (Prov. da Almerlnt Caverne nella roccla (Provlncla d'Almerla) Cavernes dans le roc (Province d Almeria; 95 ridhlenstadt (Sierra de Guadix) Aus dor Cave Town l Slerra de Guadlxl The Erde ragen die Schornstelne der Wohn- chimneys of the dwellings are seen pro- hiuser hervor Jectlng out of the rocks Problacldn de cuevas (Sierra de Guadix) Se ven las cnimeneas de las cuevas. saliendo de tierra Una citta di caverne (Sierra de Guadix) Une vllle souterralne (Sierra de Guadix) Si vedono sorgere dal suolo i caminl On ne volt surglr de terre que les che- lelle cavern© -ninees des habitations ->6 X x XI v a i D 3 s c (0 ■ > f J XI c •c .0 D. C c i ■J > ^ <0 3 "c <5 ^ Hi t: ' e ~ t 3 V tn 5 ? « e a; m Xi £ c ™ — t_ •c ! a 97 X T> U X ■o D e T3 0) n X V ID T> l. ■ * 4> •D. C 2 o b n o Q. x B D o X) T3 8 ui c © I 98 § i 1 v to M c: > I I I ■ I n > 01 3 U v c ■o a a X> I X t) 10 II) c O I X V I 8 > a o $ U 99 Guadix 100 Im Palmenwald von Elche II palmlzlo dl Elche Las palmeras de Elche In the Palm Forest of Elche Elche : au milieu des palmlers 101 Im Polmenweld von Elche (Im Baum- wlpfel eln DattelpflOcker) Nel palmlzlo dl Elche (Sulla palma un uomo che coglle datteri) In the Palm Forest of Elche (A date picker in the tree-top I Las palmeras de Elche Elche i la recolte des dattes. (L'homme grimpe au sommet du palmier en de- tachera les regimes de fruits) 102 Elche Abend im Palmenhaln Evening In the Palm Forest Cafa la tarde II tramonto nel palmizio Effet de soir 103 Orihuela 1 04 c UJ I 1 3 £ I c is i 0. * 1 3 £ 1 5 r 1 CD 107 Javea (Denia) Kalvarienbergkirchleln Church of Calvary iglesia del calvarlo La chlesetta del Calvario L'eglise du calvalre 108 Tor zum Kalvarionberg bei Sagunt ■ Gateway to the Mount of Calvary, Sagunt Puerta del calvario de Sagunto La porta del Calvario presso Environ de Sagoute i Acces et entree Sagunto du Calvalre 109 J**» Sagunt, Romlsche Burg Castello romano Sagunto, Castillo romano Sagunto, Roman Castle La citadelle romaine 110 Burg Castello Jativa Castillo Le Chateau-fort Castle 111 V- W5^* i - * - -m* .if rT~— -^^^^^ ffr *? jfl.Hr lVV " Sk ML ^** , ^^SSp *' • _ 'y r ^ r ''--*T- ^«fc_ ^«t> -■■ *-.-,: gKgff *fl T* -'. . Bu s*. -**-■*£*•' . " 'j'-d&tk .iv"*-^'' , '>* ■ .*• |H ' * r *. tfgtfl *Jgp & a 1 L ^ ' ■ ^ fc^^'feSf^^^* T Jit 1 ^^H 4f ' 9 Z essw- is ^^^^ -fVjSS .J *5fc.' #:( ^BWHV^VIfl SHE* fll '' ^mM . ^^^Sr^w^' ' ■** m ?5^H ^ 'P^Ciw"^ W»£«fcsr r .^ j&SU i „*y *^i - —*^ ^ss** ~ KwS^""'* .^ •■*■ i .^^ -"S^ '**.*&* H«^^V^ ^** J* m "*™^\ H ' l IH^a *^//KL r ' " - ' J» Jgyp ~*^ - ih> /^j^B r^HPI -^jHBjr^— ?-*- £«'*' - ^^H i^«r i^H ' W* ' V^***^* 4i^^fl j^V ' j ■^■■^BlEVVktf*!_*_^L^^UfcSfe£j^H < Qk •* ^J '• , ; - "i.fcC^ sSi -1 •' '£■ ^■■flS ES^^^hSmmh^I lil \ NsSt 4nMT ■ -, jj m HP? ImTF W&jjfc: ***•%* ■ ' wt si WJpmsL X "*> ~ • jfl ■p*^ M J|H . : ^Hi ■ ^^25tes v ^S • '":••' w ,--^* IB?-" PiBM^^ 1 • •• gfl ™t. *4HBS&li* '4d :m ;mzk *$M &3V ■k ^P H^B^^^^BHBHH ™ Blick zur Burg Veduta del Castello Jativa Vista del Castillo View of the Castle Vue sur le Chateau-fort 112 Jativa Am Kalvarlenberg II Calvarlo El Calvario On Mount Calvary La Calvalre 113 Valencia Portal des Palastes des Marqes de Gateway of the Marquis de Dos Aguas Dos Aguas Palace Portada del Palaclo del Marques de Dos Aguas Portale del Pa.azzo del Marchese de Pota.1 du '££*' £?"*»* de Dos Aguas a 114 • ••••• • • # m •■ . •. : •: : /•• Fenstergltter Una finestra con grata Andujar Reja Grille Fenfetre grfllde 115 II C C £ £ "5 ~D XI XI < < r „ V ~ a TJ oE a 41 n 9 c i< £> xi «^ 0) . o ? c i £ c c o c 5 > D (D I TJ u c e e o i- 8 3 2 10 j 01 a a 10 3 .0 116 I s c j I u I ID C 3 I 10 £ ■ 5 I E i I C id u >. o a e v a c o 5 I o c i i > (0 tr i 3 i V i c It! > 2 0) I 2 f a £ I a c c « a « U 117 Castillo Guadalest (Prov. Alicante) Guadalest Castle (Prov. of Alicante) Castillo Guadalest (Prov. de Alicante) Castello dl Guadalest Chateau de Guadalest (Provlncla dl Alicante) (Province d Alicante) 118 Monte Agudo (Prov. de Murcia) Mount Agudo (Prov. of Murcia) :19 Cuenca 120 Cuenca 121 m SchrncKTK der Mantilla von Jerez T n e Jerez mantilla Con la mantilla jerezana Mantigiia jorezana Sous la mantille (Femme de Jerez) 122 Im SchmucK der Spitzenmantihe (als Hintergrund die Manton) Mantiglla a merletti Con la mantilla With the mantilla En mantille de dentelle 123 Argentinito, Spanlons beruhmteste Tanzerln La Argentinlta, Spain's most celebrated Im Schmuck der Manton (Schultertuch) dancer wearing the Manton (shawl) La Argentlnita Argentinlta, la piu celebre ballerina della La Argentinlta la plus celebre danseuse Spagna, con sulle spalle II caratterlstlco de I'Espagne avec la mante espagnole Manton spagnole sur les epaules 124 £ ID 0) 3 c "0 t V I 5 c I g c 125 Madrid Thronsaal des Koniglichen Schlosses The Throne-Room in the Royal Castle Sale dpi Trono en el Palacto Real La Sala del Trono nel Palazzo Reale La salle do trdne au Chateau royal 126 Im Konlgllchen SchloB El Pardo bei Madrid In the Royal Castle El Pardo near Madrid En ,el Pardo Nel Palazzo Reale El Pardo, presso Madrid Une salle du chateau royal del Pardo pres de Madrid 127 V XI 2 128 (0 W 129 "•• . . I Escorial 130 Evangellstenhof La corte degll evangelist) Escorial Patio de tos Evangellstas Court of the Evangelists Cour des evangelists* 131 • --' • • «•■,..• Escorial Thronsael Sala del Trono Throne-Room La sala del Trono La salle du trone ■ 132 Die Blbliothek La aiblioteco Escorial La biblloteca The Library La BlbHotheque 133 « '2 5 ■ « a S « I? If c°- o« 00 ?■- 81 a o j: ■7 W . • ■c «l • Ul 3 1 fill «o J TO iS C 1 i V p u j 1 a c c ?• CO ft I) o • ■) II a ® "■« I V I 39 c a ,® id u. c (0 X UJ u e » D t c c 5 1 3 > i V I 2 i 8 ■'.< 135 Platlnaaal Casa de Labrador. Sala del platino Aranjuez — Casa de Labrador Sala de Platino The Platinum Hall Malson de Labrador. La salle de platine 136 In der Casa do Labrador Nella Casa de Labrador Aranjuez En la Casa de Labrador In the Casa de Labrador Interleur de la maison de Labrador 137 SchloBgarten Aranjuez Jardln del Palaclo Glardlno del Palazzo The Palace Garden l_e Jardln du p>alals 138 T> J? h 139 01 ■z CO c c 5 > o «r "O h c 8 5 c a I 3 ■o « > c 1 5 c 3 a h > s. o g n c I 2 c | •S) D C 3 5 c i 1 2 c a. o ■o o «f © 1 > 140 • CastI rvand C •0 0) C t * » u o 1 ? i ! s i < T> < C (U T> c 1 £ i to . h f? 1 c < I c • D 0. TJ c o ! 15 c in > (0 i. £ * » * I « » u o - T3 c S ^ • c * ? < .0 tl L. ' i s c c o a < = 141 Toledo Alcantarabrucke, Oberragt vom Alcazar Alcantara Bridge with the Alcazar In the background Pvjente Alcantara en el fondo el Alcazar 11 Ponte Alcantara e In alto, Le Pont d'Alcantara, domlne in fondo Alcazar par I'Alcazar 142 Bhck durch das Bruckentor der Alcantarabrucke Toledo View through the gateway of the Alcantara Bridge Vista tomada desde la puerta del puente Alcantara Veduta del Ponte d"Alcantare dal Portone Vue de la ports d'entree du pont del Ponte stesso d'Alcantara 143 Treppe des Hospitals Sta Cruz Scala dell'ospedale dl Santa Cruz Toledo Escalera del hospital de Sta. Cruz Staircase In St Cruz Hospital Escalier de I'hopltal Santa-Cruz 144 Im Hof des Grecohauses Cortllo della Casa del Greco Toledo En el patio de la Casa del Greco In the court of the Casa Greco Cour de la malson du Grec S. Juan ds los reyes, Kreuzgang Loggloto del Chlostro dl S. Juan de los reyes Toledo Claustro de S. Juan de los reyes Cloister of St. Juan de los reyes CloTtre de St Jean de los reyes 146 Turm dor Kathedrale II campanile della Cattedrale Toledo Torre de la Catedrai Cathedral Spire Tour de la Cathedrale Toledo 14H V I X £ 5 •o 1 I e O { 3 ID a o I) «] T3 & s E e L- <5 - c i ■ c I I 149 1'racht von Lagartera (Pov. Toledo) Lagartera Costume (Prov. of Toledo) Traje de Lagartera (Prov de Toledo) Costume dl Lagartera Jeune femme de Lagartera (Prov. dl Toledo) (Province de Tolede) 150 Hochzeltstracht von Lagartera (Prov. Toledo) Lagartora Wedding Dress (Prov. of Toledo) Traje de boda de Lagartera (Prov. de Toledo) Veste nuziale dl_Lagartera Uno noco a Lagartera (Province de Tolede) Les marles (Prov. di Toledo) 151 Waldkopellt) Capllla en el bosque Forest Chapel Cappelta sllvestre Calvaire et chapelle chempetres 152 ;*«*•#.■ Hi • • •/ Rulnen des Kreuzgangea Im Kloster Yuste Rulnas del Claustro de Yuste Rovine nel Chiostro d! Yuste Ruins of the Cloister In Yuste Convent Rulnes du monastere de Yuste 153 Aldeanueva de la Vera 154 a a t> s a = b at a ■ I ■ r 3 I x 3 H si o c o c I T> C a e 8 a « T> | a c e TJ g > c J) D II) J) t E h il £ «>° s E T> u 2(5 T)S in o « U = 0> ■gxi 155 Segovlanlacher Hlrt Pastor© segoviono Pastor segoviono Segovlanlan shepherd Un berger segovien 156 > (0 Kathedraie Segovia La Catedrai The Cathedral La Catted rale La Cathedrale 156 o 3 ■c c 3 IT < C O £ o • c e E 8 o 3 T) C 3 -i c 1 E 5 o R o a) • o E 8 S o v c 3 a o < 3 « 3 O ■ 159 Segovlanlscher Bauer, im Hlntergrund Segovlanlan peasant In the back- der Alcazar von Segovia ground the Segovia Alcazar Aldeano aegovlano, en el foqdo el Alcazar de Segovia Contadlno segovlano, e, In fondo, Un paysan segovlen. A I'arriere-plan: I'Alcazar dl Segovia lAlcazar de Segovia 160 Segovia ^Alc&zar 161 • • • :• : • • • • • Segovia, Casa de los Picos 162 S'egovia 163 I 01 in Li e c & e > e u c C 2 * > in v 5 c U > 01 t • c > U e 1 01 a g 5 U > ? in e e n c as 164 c (0 XI < 166 i c I h J 5 « T j i u E I a > < % o E 10 -J ■ E D 167 ; • • • »-"••••• •• Stadttor S. Vicente La porta dl S. Vicente Avila Puerta de S. Vicente St. Vincent Gate La Porte Saint-Vincent 168 Avila Apsis der Kathedrsie ais starkster Verteidl- The Cathedral apse. The strongest forti- jungsturm der Stadtmauer mlt Wehrgang fled tower of the town with sheltered pas- und Pechnasen sages and machicolations Apslde de la Catedral como torre mas fuerte de defensa con circunvalaclon L'Abside della Cattedrale serve di potente Abside de la cathedrale servant de princl- torre dl dlfesa, munitadlcammlnodl ronda pale tour de defense, avec chemin de ronde et machicoulis 169 (0 (0 U d c (0 0) • -3 a o a © in . . ••• • • • ,..••■ • *.• •■• W M W m «. - - - m m * - " * . » * » - - 173 II n -in c a 3 d c > o a > a N ■ a i S Q C « E 13 |1 «% _w ?c ao « > Q E o 174 10 u) 51 o_ an U)C ifi- ». 0) 0£ £ £ ID c o ~v £« 01 ID ££ 3 IB h to O ~ aE° •5. L t 3 a mo £ S«£ • *'o t>£ a ~ u • ic flj 30 UT5D O O ID > '3 a I/) o >. I £ ■ N a 1 « i > o z C(D 0(D flic 5|° F o" ^| t Dc « >r ■Son o a s J) aim XI v 2o g£ ""I » on 3 of 0° N O- Ni-5 -V°8 Q. H _ w t a l[ 0«5 175 c II £ a> > (C r F V c 0) IC "5 Q. c c 5 176 2 w*w 177 ',_ Palast del Infantado Guadalajara Palaclo del Infantado Palazzo dell'lnfantado Palace of the Infantado Palais de llnfante 178 ' > I I ' Elntrittshalle und Bllok In den Hot Ingresso e veduta dolla corto Guadalajara-Palacio del Infantado Entrance- Hall and view of the Court Entrada y vista del patio Vestibule d'entree et vue dans la cour 179 Im Hof des Palasteo del Infantado Guadalajara In the court of the Palace of the Infantado En el patio del palaclo del Infantado Nefle corte del palazzo dell' Infantado Cour du palms de flnlant© 180 Im Hof des Palaates del Infantado Guadalajara In the court of the Palace of the Infantado En el patio del paiacio del Infantado Nella corte del palazzo dell' Infantado Cour du palals de I'mfantt- 181 Castillo Peftafiel 182 \ 1 » : • ■■^■^■■■1 ■ Castillo Mombeltran 183 184 (0 u u IS) U 185 Elngangstor und Wartturm Porta d'lngresso e torre Castillo Coca Puerta y torre del homenaje Gate and Watch Tower Porte d'entree et donjon 186 ______l^_ H __ H _- HB _____ HB ____ H ^___^^___ a ______ Altes Stadttor Vecchla porta delta cltta Coca Puerta antigua de la ciudad Old Town Gate Anclenne porte de la vllle 187 Burfltor Porta del Castello Siguenza Puerto del castillo Castle Gate Porte du vleux chateau-tort 188 I 3 (0 N c g in • o e a • v c -I o i E a 3 a. 1 i c e Q. a D e I 189 (0 N c ID O 0) in 190 <0 y 191 Albarracfn 192 Albarracfn 193 Albarracfn 194 ■ Daroca 195 Stadttor Puerto de la cludad City Qate Porta della cltte porta de la ville 196 ■ Ill IgpjJJJWUD P l.'l Daroca IQ7 Tor der Santa Tecla Porta dl Santa Tecla Tarragona Puerta de Sta. Tecla St Tecla Gate Porte de Sainte Tecla 198 Kreuzgong der Kathedrale Navata della Catted rale Tarragona Claustro de la Catedral Cathedral Cloisters CloTtre de la cathedrale 199 ... -." Barcelona Treppe Im Hof des Houses Damases Stairway In the Court of the Damases House Escalera en el patio de la casa de Damases Scala nel cortile del Palazzo Damases Escatier dans la cour de la malson Damases 200 Der Montserrat im Vordergrund Monlstrol n Montserrat Sol davanti Monlstrol El Montserrat En primer termtno Monlstrol The Montserrat Monlstrol at the foot Le Montserrat avec Monlstrol au premier plan 201 Gerona 202 c o> c E o a « (d c L. CD i D c E c ■ « o IS a c E o 1 c c 1 o O) c E a in e a 203 Castellfullit (Catalufta) Dor Ort tat auf Sautenbasalt erbaut The town Is built on basalt columns El pueblo se levanta sobre columnas de basalto II Paeae e stato costnjlto su La petite vHle est batle sur dea colonrte dl basalto roches de basalte 204 Pyrenaen, Im Segretal Valle del Sagre Plrlneos. Vallo del Segre Pyrenees, Segre Valley La valiee de la Segre dans les Pyrenees 205 Pyrenaen, Weg nach Nurla Plrenel. Via dl Nurla Pirlneos, Camlno de Nurla Pyrenees, Road to Nurla Les Pyrenees: Route de Nurla 206 Pyrenaen, EngpaB de las Debotas (Rio Once) Pyrenees, de las Debotas Gorge (Rio Clnca) Rrlneos, Paso de las Debotas (Rio Clnca) Plrenel. Passo de las Debotas (Rio Cinca) Les Pyrenees; Les gorges de las Debotas (Rio Clnca) 207 Pyrenften. In Costellb6 Plronel. A Castollbti PIrlneos. En Castellbri Pyrenees. CastellbcJ Les Pyrenees: Castellbo 206 Pyrenaen. S. Juan do Plan PIrenel S. Juan de Ran Pirlneos. S. Juan de Plan Pyrenees St. Juan de Plan Lea Pyrenees: Saint-Jean de Plan 209 Pyrenaen-Alquezar Pyrenees-Alquezar Plrineos-Alquezar Plronot-Alquozar Les Pyrenees :Alquezar 210 Alquezar 211 <0 N D. « c < D O. 3 •0 c » T a c 3 > -a c I I c •3 1 T g 8 • «. Hi V c 5 i c c 1 a ■ < • V a E > a c D « C e > 0. 2 c < c T) O E e T) C E » « 216 I £ I c n $ i< ev ■ X « 1 o c c < V o Q 3 D a > t a T) «■ e « _j c c I 1 -J S t c < I V (. E a j ■ T f 1 > c T ■ 1 2 o i£ E oc > J) SS 1 1 e oi ID j 3 « C< c 13 a £ j c < s •D O 6 B >. r 5 219 o I r i E ill « o « E o z E i « N £ 5 V I _J H o a B c « v • N a 23 Felsformatlonen von Autol Formazione di roccle ad Autol Formocidnes en las rocas de Autol Rock formations of Autol Le tunnel de la route, a Autol 224 Felsformationen von Autol Formaclones en las rocas de Autol Rock formations of Autol f-ormazlone dl roccle ad Autol Blzarres formations rocheusos 225 Burgo de Osma 226 c N 10 E 227 Soria, S. Juan de Duero-Altar 228 1 5££^dJ#£&: Klrchgang Alia Chlesn S. Esteban de Gormaz Camlno de la Iglesla Going to church La montee de I eglise 229 • ••••"••«• rolsformatlon von S. Esteban de Gormaz Rock formation of St Estoban do Gormaz Formaclbn en las rocas do S. Estoban do Gormaz p orm«ione dl rocclo dl S. Esteban de Gormaz St Esteban do Gormaz: Lo Rocher 230 Pancorbo 231 Pancorbo 232 Pancorbo 233 bathed rale Burgos La Catedral The Cathedral La Cattedrale La Cathedrale 934 Inneres der Kathedraie Interno della Cattedrale Burgos Interior de la Catedral Interior of the Cathedral Interleur de la cathedrale 235 Hoehaltar dor Klrche L'Altar Magglore deile Catted rale Burgos, Cartuja Miraflores Retabli High-Altar of the Church Le maTtre autel de leglise des dominlcalns 236 -■irabmal des tnfanten Alfonso I sepolcro dell'lnfante Alfonso Burgos, Cartuja Miraflores Sepulcro del Infante Alfonso Sepulchre of the Infante Alfonso Tombeau de I'infant Alphonse dans legllse des domlnlcalns 237 Im Garten d»r Cartuja Mlraflores Nel glardino do la Cartuja Mlraflores Burgos En el Jardln de la Cartuja Mlraflores In the Garden of the Cartuja Mlraflores Le Jardln du convent des domlnlcalns 238 F 3 . fl • W 1 = g. 15 5< in 245 Kathedrale Salamanca La Gated ra I La Cattedrale The Cathedral La Cathedrale 246 Portal der Unlversltat Portal© dell'Universita Salamanca Portada de la Universldod Doorway of the University Porta.il de I'Universite 247 Salamanca Unlversltat. Pletereske Treppe (an dor University. Staircase with alto-relievo oberen Treppenwenge Oarstellung el- fthe relievos on the upper part snowing nes Rittorstlerkampfes) knights In a bull-fight) Unlversldad. La escalera (en el relieve superior una corrida de toros en la Edad Media) Unlverslta. La scallnata. Nella parte L'Untveralte > Escaller du style en relief superior© della Scala e rafflgurata (9ur le llmon superieur est represents una corrida dl tori un combat de taureaux au Moyen-age 248 Inneres Portal Im Hof der Escuelas menores mlodere Schule) Portale interno nel cortlle della Scuole Inferlore Salamanca Entrada y patio de las Escuelas menores (hospital del estudio) Inner Doorway In the court of the Escuelas menores (lower school) PortaH Interleur dans la cour des Escuelas menores (ecoles mlneures) 249 ' ■" Portal elnes Pelastes Ingresso dun palazzo Ciudad Rodrigo Portada de un palacio Door of palace Portail dun palais 250 • u c 9 • g X) o (T T3 (0 ■D U 8 • E J a* *8 o > c E ■ [ c o c ■ i v i « a 5 251 TVacht von Cendelarlo Costumes In Candelario Traje de Candelario Costuml dl Candelario Femmes de Candelario 252 u c £ o 9 Q. « c a u 253 I • • I 1 < Tracht von La Alberca (Prov. Salamanca) Costumes In La Alberca (Prov. of Salamanca) Traje de La Alberca (Prov. de Salamanca) Costumi di La Alberca (Prov. di Salamanca) Una famllle de paysans de la Alberca. (Province de Salamanque) 254 Maultlerritt A Mule-Ride Paseo en mula Cavalcata sul mulo En route sur la mule 255 Festtracht von La Alberca (vlelreihlge Festal costume In La Alberca (four-strand Qoldketten - alter Famllfenbesrtz) gold chain-old family ornament) Traj© fastlvo da La Alberca (las cade- nas de oro son una Joya de famllla) Costume festlvo a La Alberca. (Plu Femme de la Alberca en costume de fill dl catena d'oro, eredlta dl famlgllaj ceremonle (Lee colliers en or a plusleurs rangeea p r ovleonentd'un tresancien heritage de famine 256 Festtracht von La Alberca Glovlnptta dl La Alberca in costume festive- Traje festivo de La Alberca Festal costume In La Alberca Femme de la Alberca en costume de fete 257 In Mogarraz (Prov. Salamanca) In Mogarraz (Prov. of Salamanca) En Mogarraz (Prov. do Salamanca) A Mogarraz (Provlncla die Salamanca) A Mogarraz (Province de Salamanque) 258 Hurdesbewohner am Brunnen Hurdani alia fontana Hurdanos en la fuente Hurdanos at the well Hurdanos a la fontalne 259 Kloster Batuecas Jl Monastero di Las Batuecas El Monasterlo de Las Batuecas The Monastery of Las Batuecas Le Monastere de Las Batuecas 260 Pforte des Klosters Batuecas Portada del Monasterlo de Las Batuecas Doorway of the Monastery of Las Batuecas Ingresso del Monastero Las Batuecas Porte d'entree du monastere ds Las Batuecas 261 In der Klosterschule Nolla scuola del Monastero En la escuela del monasteries In the monastery school L'ecole au monasters 262 Waldespracht (Batuecas) Nella foresta (Batuecas) The beauty of the woods (Batuecas) Encanto del bosque (Batuecas) Dans la fordt (Batuecas) 263 • • ♦ _• • • • • I Pfosten der Kapelle S. Miguel de Lino bel Ovledo (von Ramlro I. um 845 erbaut) Door-p09t of the chapel of St. Miguel de Lino near Ovledo (erected by Ramlro I. about 845) Poste de la Capllia S Miguel de Lino (Ovledo) (ediflcada por Ramlro I por los artos de 845) Pllastro della Cappella dl S. Mlchele de Lino (Ovledo) Un plller de la Chapelle de St. Michel de (Costrulto da Ramlro I. nell' anno 845) Lino (Ovledo) (batle par Ramlro I er en 845) 264 Inneres der Kapelle Santo Maria de Naranco Interior of the Chapel of St. Maria de Naranco bel Ovledo (um 845 erbaut) near Ovledo (erected about 6-40) Interior de la Capllla Sta. Maria de Naranco (Ovledo) (edificada por los anos de 845) Interno della Cappella dl Santa Maria de Interleur de la chapelle de Ste. Mane Naranco (Oviedo) (Costrulta nell' anno 845) de Naranco (Ovledo) (batle en 845) 265 EngpaB von Hermlda In den Plcos de The Gorge of Hermida In the Plcos de Europa (Asturlen) Europa (Asturla) Desfiladero de Hermlda en los Plcos de Europa (Asturlas) Posso dl Hermlda nel Plcos Defile de Hermlda a Los Plcos d'Europa (Asturie) de Europa (Asturles) 266 Im Sellafal (Plcos de Europa) Gorge in the Sella Valley (Plcos de Europa) Desflladero de Sella (Plcos de Europa) Nella valle del Sella (Pico d'Europa) Gorge de la Sella (Picos de Europa) 267 Asturlanlsche BrOcke (Picos de Europe) AsturiBn Bridge (Picos de Europe) Ponte asturlano (Pico d'Europa) Puente asturlano (Plco9 de Europe) Un pont des Asturies (Picos de Europe) 268 Eukalyptusaliee bel Rlbadesella Eucalyptus Avenue near Ribadesella Alameda de Eucallptos (Rlbadesella) Vlale fiancheggiato dl eucallttl a Rlbadesella Allee d'eucalyptus pres de Rlbadesella 269 Potes (Picos de Europa) 270 Potes 271 (0 a o i_ 3 HI (D ID a. 272 f. ■» (L 273 i < « c O • • a a c a v c i a _ o • c • • C 01 c v c « t 3 C « • So. o O) c «I U i c I i 274 *v V VI -A c c t> 6 c e ■ L • V c o c c (0 • t- c | « c > « i T) t f •D C * r c U) « > ■ « M *jtjs I HH * 9 ^ .^ '-a 1 If i 1 ; ■'-Si .1 l • ••_•♦• * • •••*■» » [ <•• • • • • ' • • * ••••_• *• • • • , 1 , ••* • * «' T> G c b 9 X V e i V) « l t r > (T c 1 c 4 • ■ 1 V 2 > V f> c a 1 • IT) 275 • • • • . Ondarroa (Vizcaya) 276 Castillo Butr6n (.Vizcaya) 27? B<*sklsches Bauemhaus (Malaria) Casetta Besca (Manaria) Ca&ita vasca_(MaAariai Basque Peasant's House (Mariana) Maison de paysan basque (Manaria) 278 a c c i) X 3 1 0) 3 a ■ a c o I >■ « a • D C ■ a, ?l « 3 Q • ■o i U o c « 3 Q 3 J) ■ ■ £ 3 j) ill 01 c MO c 3 g c 8 2 3 U 279 a & C 3 5 I c 3 10 1 > 2 2 4' 2 o 5 i C a 2 a r ir j a 280 t D a a CD «i o a > f c (r a c o I > U c 0' c c .1! X c ■ S in (0 ■ U 01 a >. i- o 3 2 c 5 o o ij I o 2 281 •• Vlzcaya. Alter Grabsteln In der Coleglata von Cenarruza Slscaya, Ancient gravestone In the Coleglata of Cenarruza Vlzcaya, Laplda sepulcral en a Coleglata de Cenarruza Anfca lapide sepolcrale nella Colleglata Pierre tombale 6 la Colleglale de le Cenarruza Cenarruza (Blscaye) 282 Stelnkreuz In Durango (Vlzcaya) Stone Crucifix In Durango (Blscaya) Cruz de plectra de Durango (Vlzcaya) Croce dl pletra a Durango Le Calvalre de Durango (Vlzceyai Blscayel 283 Frledhofsaufgang Mallona (Bilbao) Entrance to the Mallona Cemetery (Bilbao) Entrada del cementerlo de Mallona (Bilbao) Ingresao al cimitero dl Mallona (Bilbao) Entree du clmetlere de Mallona (Bilbao) 284 u 2 ID j 0) C o a i 0) 5 £ ID o ai i o e ID UJ TO a c u > c © X 3 I a y 3 a i If) o UJ © CO o © V a to l_ 3 © c w >. a 3 (0 p : £ 'to p B a v *c o o a © to 285 • • • • . s c o E 9 > c o D V • e r a • 3 C (0 n (D en c ID | ■ f > i m a v v *- jn > c • c a c 5 E o > 5 I c > i is i T o 5 6 286 o • • 3 3 P P c 5 E 2 - 5 c o 2 3 a B 3 > C en (0 J3 c « c a T) e 3 a $ c o 2 E >° o T3 4 3 P c 2 e V i o 1 287 c ID l c i X) c CO U) 3 8 3 a ■* o 2 c E a c 3 E E 8 ■D 288 0) c c c > UJ 3 XI E a I c e » c c c «>3 e «i tf)3 4 Q i] o 5 IT: 3 a Hi c 5 3 c m c U) TJ t 4 3 a c I I X) c a -0 < c •I 1 ID £ i 3 5 o c o *l a i} j) (0 c it in i 289 3 8 r I c (d z CO 1 n ID a 01 j in 10 01 a. Q. c V > N « a 2 c £ a 2 T3 £ 3) N N a "5 a 8 a E ■ 3 10 E X) c I ui U 296 a c f 0> C f a 6 tD o c i ■ a I I c 3 « 0) 3 £ U j e Q 3 2 c a E o X a ■ 2 o s c c U c a o 3 01 ID £ 9 c £1 E a CD 297 Hof Im Palast Korls V Cortile del Palazzo Carlo V. Fuenterabia Patio en el Palaclo Carlos V. Court In Charles V th's Palace Une cour du palals de Charles-Quint 29t- Rulnon In Margariten - Ruins among the flowers Rulnas entre flores Margariten. Rovlne Rulnes et fleurs 299 Kathedrale La Cattaedrale Santiago de Campostela La Catedral The Cathedral La Cathedrale 300 Y™ -pf In der Bucht von Pontevedra (Gallcien) In the Bay of Pontevedra (Galicia) En la ria de Pontevedra (Galicia) Nel seno.di Pontevedra iGaliziaj La bale de Pontevedra (Galicei 301 3piel der Wellen Qluoco delle onde Juego de las olas The waves at play Echapp6e aur la mer 302 B B 3 C B I > o o B (9 > a b s o 0) 5 3 £ B s o o > ! Q. c B S > c > c 5 B I 303 Abendfeler auf dem Meere (Ausfahrt von Pasagesj Eventide at sea (Exit of Pasages* Penumbra de la tarde en el mar (Sallda de Pasages) Tramonto sul mare (Usclta del porto di Pasages) Effet de soir sur la mer a la sortie de Pasages 304 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. IS octW** I ., ' —'■.-■ NOV 2 REC'D L& DEC 2 0'63 -10 A ll, LD 2]A-50m-8,'61 (C1795sl0)476B General Library University of California Berkeley YF 00629 W3\1 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY