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 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN DIEGO 
 
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 1822 02399 5566
 
 TiGKH Head.
 
 THE 
 
 HUNTING GllOUNDS 
 
 THE OLD WORLD. 
 
 THE OLD SHEKARRY," 
 
 AUTHOR or 
 'THE FOREST AND THE FIELD," "THE CAMP FIRE," "WRINKLES," BTC. 
 
 i^Eto ©lii'ti'on. 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY E. LAW. 
 
 LONDON: 
 GEORGE EOUTLEDGE A- SONS, 
 
 THE BROADWAY, LUDGATE ; 
 NEW YORK : 416 BROOME STREET. 
 1871.
 
 PRINTED BY BALLANTYNE AND COMPANT 
 EDINBURGH AND LONDON
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 The following pages, descriptive of different inci- 
 dents in a Hunter's life, are selections from the 
 journal of a wanderer over many lands, wbicli, hav- 
 ing excited a certain degree of interest amongst a 
 class who have themselves participated in similar 
 scenes, the Author has laid before the Public ; in 
 the hope that some of his comrades, many of whom 
 are " mighty hunters," and abler with the pen than 
 himself, will follow his example, and disseminate 
 the knowledge they have acquired by experience 
 during their sojourn in "the pathless woods," as 
 their accounts cannot fail to be of intense interest 
 to their brother sportsmen, and a great assistance 
 to the uninitiated who aaay wish to follow in their 
 footsteps.
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 T. Tiger Head, 
 II. The Speak Won, 
 
 III. The Death of the Man-Eatee, 
 
 IV. The Old Shekarry and his Gang, 
 V. A Close Shave, 
 
 VI. Retribution, 
 
 VII. The Death op a Bull Bison, 
 VIII. Bruin's Charge, 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Fi'ontispiece. 
 36 
 . 130 
 
 249 
 279 
 304 
 320 
 383
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PART I -INDIA. 
 
 SECTION I.— THE DECCAN. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 HTDBABAD. — MY FIRST DAY's DEER-STALKING. 
 
 Leave of absence obtained. — My mentor. — Departure. — Abdulla- 
 ben-Ali, the Killidar. — A Banian. — The hill-fort of Bhoonghir. 
 — Old cannon. — Native hospitality. — Visions of deer. — The 
 start. — Plenty of "slots," but no deer. — The sambur described. 
 — His habits. — A deer-stalker's qualifications. — Hints. — The 
 trail. — Walter's companion. — ^Tracking. — The sambur's in- 
 stinct. — The bark of a buck-elk. — The game in view. — An 
 anxious moment. — My first stag. — Two harts die, a third hard 
 hit. — The chase. — Ponto brings him to bay. — A good shot. 
 — Return to camp, ..... Page 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 HOG-UUNTING IN THE DECCAN. 
 
 The fortress of Golconda.— The Tombs of the Kings. — The 
 gardens. — Persian inscriptions. — The gathering. — Plan of
 
 VI CONTENTS. 
 
 operations. — Reminiscences of the past. — The start.— The 
 rendezvous. — My nag " Lai Babba. " — A moment of suspense. 
 — The find. — We 're away. — The chase. — The first blood. — 
 A purl. — The advantages of being on good terms with one's 
 nag. — The tug of war. — Exciting moments. — The struggle for 
 the spear. — It is won. — The charge. — Mischief ensues. — The 
 death of the boar. — The wounded hog-hunter. — The death of 
 an old friend. — The try sting- tree. — The trophies. — The return 
 to cantonment, ..... Page 21 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 MULKAPOOR. 
 
 Our camp. — Mulkapoor. — The Patel. — Good news of shekar. — 
 
 W 's family. — Scheme for a Nautch. — The Begum. — Her 
 
 love of good liquor. — The prescription. — Chineah and my 
 Shekar -gang. — The doctor's ruse. — News of a man-eater. — 
 Departure of the gang, . . , . ,40 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE man-eater's LAIR. 
 
 The start. — The man-eater's depredations. — His habits described. 
 
 — His last victim. — His trail. — We are on his track More 
 
 game. — The scent becomes warm. — The lair. — The remains of 
 many victims discovered. — The plan for the morrow. — A re- 
 solution. — W 's idea of shekar. — We arrive in camp. — 
 
 The Pill's garden. — The bath. —Dinner. — The doctor's visit to 
 the Begum. — Effect of his medicine. — My future husband. — 
 The nautch arranged, ..... 54 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 A BATTUE. 
 
 Preliminary arrangements for the beat. — The doctor's great 
 appearance.— His famous feat. — W falls in with tigers. —
 
 CONTENTS. VI I 
 
 Fatal accident.— The death of a tiger.— The game warms. — 
 The battue. — Another tiger dies.— The bag of the day. — The 
 doctor again. — The ceremonies of my gang, . Page 72 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE GANG. 
 
 The Begum's invitation accepted. — My shekar-gang.— Qoogoo- 
 loo's history and the discovery of the Yanadi caste.— Googoo- 
 loo's gifts. — Insinuations, . . . .86 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE NAUTCH. 
 
 The Nautch : its fascinations. — Indian dancing-girls.— Oriental 
 eyes. — Their dress and jewels. — Soaping the Begum.— Indian 
 jugglers and their tricks. — The celebrated mango-tree. — The 
 sacrifice to Bowanee. — Explanation. — The doctor's wonder, 103 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE DEATH OF THE MAN-EATER. 
 
 News of the man-eater again. — We are once more on his trail. — 
 The Bcent lost. — Googooloo gives tongue. — It warms. — My 
 plan. — Preparation. — Execution. — A ticklish moment. — 
 Death of the man-eater. — Ceremonies of the shekarries, 122 
 
 SECTION II.— SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 TRICniNOPOLT. 
 
 Trichinopoly.— The evil influence of caste in India.— The return 
 of Chineah, and our prospects of sport. — My shooting-cart and 
 battery described.— Preparations for a start, . . 134
 
 VIU CONTEJTTS. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE SHEVEKOYS. 
 
 Departure of the gang. — Our start. — The journey. — Salem. — 
 The Sheveroy hills, and our reception. — Anglo-Indian hospi- 
 tality. — Claret cup. — News of bison and bears. — Googooloo 
 on trail. — We follow. — A bull-bison lost. — The news of bears 
 confirmed. — Their habits described, . . Page 150 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 BEAK-HUNTING. 
 
 We start for the Bear Hill. — The reconnaissance. — Bears afoot. 
 — Their strongholds invested. — A foraging party surprised. — 
 Two bears die. — Three more afoot. — Another couple yield 
 their spoils. — Desperate encounter with an enraged vixen, 
 who almost proved a Tartar. — " The Old Shekarry" in a fix 
 for a time, but wins the game at last. — The bag of the day. — 
 The return, . . . • . . 163 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 BOWANI. 
 
 Sankerrydroog An adventure with hyenas. — Bowani.— Alli- 
 gator-fishing. — We start for Andior. — " Gooty," my shooting- 
 pony : his pedigree and achievements. — Small-game shooting. 
 — Antelope-stalking. — Andior. — The monkeys and the Brah- 
 mins. — Murr el-fishing, . . . . .172 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE COMBEI JUNGLE. 
 
 Early rising. — " Tiger's milk." — A sloth-bear started. — Combei. 
 — Our encampment. — A salt-lick. — Great bag of deer by 
 night. — Ding-ding. — A strange rencontre whilst peafowl-
 
 CONTENTS. ix 
 
 stalking. — Leg-bail. — The death of the tiger. — B 'a sport. 
 
 — A glorious chase. — The bull-nilghau. — The bag. — A black 
 panther. — Strange mode of catching deer. — Return to Bowani. 
 —Finale, ..... Page 185 
 
 SECTION III.— THE MOUNTAIN RANGES. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE NEILGHERRIES. 
 
 Index. — Pleasing recollections. — The deep forest described. — 
 The pleasures and excitement of a hunter's life. — The requi- 
 site qualifications. — The Neilgherries and their productions. 
 — Variety of game. — Ootacamund. — Englishmen and their 
 love of Sport. — Dawson's Hotel. — Burnside Cottage. — Mala- 
 njund. — The Todas : their women, habitations, and strange 
 customs. — News of elk. — The start : preliminaries. — The 
 drive. — Game afoot. — A capital shot. — Three deer bite the 
 dust, and Bruin yields up his spoils. — A stag at bay. — The 
 return. — Convivial gathering. — The Major's story, . 200 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE NEILGHERRIES, Continued A NIGHT AFFAIR. 
 
 News of a tiger. — His last depredation. — The ambuscade. — Lying 
 in wait. — A night attack. — Exciting moments. — The spoiler 
 vanquished. — The return. — News of ibex, and an expedition 
 
 to the Koondah range. — Ibex-stalking. — B 's wonderful 
 
 shooting. — The game nearly lost. — The ibex described. — Re- 
 turn to Ooty ...... 219
 
 X CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 ELEPHANT-nUNTING IN THE FOREST AROUND THE BASE OP THE 
 NEILGHERRIES, 
 
 The elephant-hunter's qualifications, " Mighty Hunters." — The 
 start. — The Coonoor Pass. — The trail — Signs of a tusker. — 
 The herd. — A bull-elephant dies. — A cow and calf fall. — 
 The bivouac, ..... Page 238 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 EliEPHANT-HUNTING IN THE ANNAMULLAY FOREST. 
 
 Coimbatore. — News of elephants. — A Poojah to propitiate the 
 Hindoo deities meets with no satisfactory results. — A court- 
 martial held on the recusant Sawmy. — Sentence and execu- 
 tion. — The ghost of the injured Sawmy appears to the Gooroo. 
 — His threat. — The laying of the spirit. — Result obtained. — 
 
 The start. — M 's hut at Tunnacuddoo. — His hospitality. 
 
 — A bison wounded, — Taketty. — News of a herd of elephants. 
 — Our bivouac. — A night alarm. — Elephants astir, — A bull- 
 elephant yields up his spoils. — An immense snake caught. — 
 We follow up the spoor of the herd. — Beautiful forest scenery. 
 — Tracking by torchlight. — Difficulties surmounted. — We 
 swim a nullah. — The trail. — The herd in view. — A bull- 
 elephant anchored. — A second tusker wounded. — A charge. — 
 A predicament. — A lucky shot decides the day. — The result of 
 a pat from an elephant, .... 250 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 THE GREAT ANNAMULLAY FOREST. — TIGER-HUNTINO. 
 
 Our plan of operations. — The hunting-grounds. — Preparations. 
 — The journey. — Jungle travelling. — Our bivouac. — A lonely 
 glen. — Signs of game. — The ambuscade. — Foreign signs and 
 jungle melody. — Ooogooloo gives tongue. — The spoiler
 
 CONTENTS. XI 
 
 spoiled. — An unexpected rencontre. — A wounded tigres.s. — 
 Her retreat stormed. — Fatal accident. — lletribution. — The 
 Shekarry's grave, .... Page 281 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 THE GREAT ANNAMULLAY FOREST, Continued. — BISON-HUNTING. 
 
 Our hut. — A gigantic carp. — Fiah-shooting. — His dimensions. — 
 Discovery of a cave ; an exploring party. — The tiger's spoils. 
 — His dimensions. — "Away with melancholy." — Chineah's 
 reconnaissance and bag. — Our open council. — Jungle harmony. 
 — Our proceedings and plan for the morrow. — The turn-out. 
 — The start. — A hard fag. — A fresh trail of bison struck. — 
 Googooloo has the ear of a hare. — Two buck-elk and a hind 
 bite the dust. — We follow up the bison's trail. — Heav^y work. 
 — Land-leeches. — The find. — A heavy bag and a good day's 
 work.— The gigantic dimensions of the patriarch of the herd. 
 —The game bushed. — Again en route. — A teak-forest. — The 
 head of the fall. — Magnificent views. — Our bivouac, . 306 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 THE GREAT ANNAMULLAY FOREST, Continued. — A ROGUE 
 ELEPHANT. 
 
 Naga's party join us. — News of a rogue elephant. — Chineah 
 
 despatched for the bison's spoils. — B 's luck. — The start. 
 
 — We strike a fresh trail. — Fall in with the tusker. — Our pro- 
 ceedings. — B 's excellent shot. — The ivories. — A discus- 
 sion on " rogues." — The cutting-out of the tusks. — Return to 
 
 the low country. — Arrival of our guests. — Dinner. — B 's 
 
 adventure of a " grifiin." — The lion and tiger compared. — My 
 first lion. — We again ascend the Ghaut. — Good cheer. — Con- 
 sultation. — Elephant-spoors. — The trail followed up. — K 'a 
 
 rashness. — An escape.— A small tusker falls. — Return to the 
 hut. — B 's bag.— A storm.— Return to cantonment, 329
 
 Xll CONTENTS. 
 
 PART II.-CIRCASSIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Omer Pacha. — My followers. — Bashi-Bazouks. — Houssain the 
 Arnout. — Ahmed the Koord. — All the Nubian. — Mahomed 
 the Arab. — Sied Cassim the Dervish. — Abdulla the guide. — 
 Captain Dymock's grave. — Godova. — Wild-fowl. — A heavy 
 bag. — The climate of Circassia. — The inhabitants : their man- 
 ners, customs, and dress. — Circassian women. — The Illori chief- 
 tain. — The " Faithful," and the " forbidden indulgence." — 
 Omer Pacha a humbug. — His reputation amongst the Turkish 
 officers. — His wound accounted for. — His acquisitiveness and 
 plunder. — A fearful chase by wolves. — The Turkish Colonel's 
 advice. — SuUeiman Pacha. — His purchase. — Revolt of the 
 Hareem. — The catastrophe and finale, . . Page 351 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 CIRCASSIA — continued. 
 
 Circassian scenery.— A false alarm. — The Bey's konak. — Rifles 
 and revolvers. — Circassian cuisine. — A goose cooked h, la Mrs 
 Harris. — Uninvited company. — News of a bear. — A night 
 prowler.— A huntsman's toilet.— The route through the 
 ravines. — The lair. — The Bey's dogs give tongue. — An enor- 
 mous bear wounded. — A man mauled. — The Bruin bites the 
 dust.— The bivouac. — Horses stolen. — Mussulman apathy. — 
 The pursuit. — The trail. — The plunderers surprised and 
 taken. — Their punishment, .... 373 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 CIRCASSIA — continued. 
 
 On the sale of Circassian females, and extenuating circum 
 stances. — Their character.— An exploring trip premeditated. 
 — The start. — A Russian fort.— Bustard -shooting. — Forest 
 scenery, —Difficulties en rowie.— Trout-fishing.— Mosquitoes.
 
 CONTENTS. Xili 
 
 — A lovely valley. — Wild-cattle hunt. — An awkward predica- 
 ment. — A bull and cow slain.— Mode of preserving the flesh. 
 — More game afoot. — The ascent of the first range. — Moun- 
 tain scenery. — Mount El-Bruz in the distance.— Difficult 
 travelling. — A bear started. — A long shot. — Strange feelings. 
 — A frightful chasm, and exciting moment. — Journey along 
 the ridge.— The descent. — Wolves. — A Circassian hamlet. — 
 Hospitality. — A noble race. — A Durbar, and the result of our 
 consultation, ..... Page 390 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 ciRCASSiA, continued, — the ascent of el-bruz. 
 
 Forest scenery.— The first halt. — A glacier. — A beautiful pano- 
 rama. — Sunrise. — A lammergeier slain. — Glacier travelling. — 
 Eternal snow. — Avalanches. — The lower summit attained. — 
 Our exultation.— A description of the higher summit.— The 
 impossibility of reaching it. — Grand scenery. — Intense glare. 
 — The descent commenced.— A sudden death.— Kuchuk's last 
 resting-place. — Fatigviing fag. — The bivouac in the pine- 
 forest. — An ibex killed. — Return. — Finale, . . 409 
 
 PART III.-ALGERIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 A SPORTING RECONNAISSANCE IN ALGERIA. 
 
 The origin of the Expedition. — The start.— Paris Difficulty 
 
 about the importation of gunpowder. — A ruse.— Marseilles. — 
 
 The voyage. — Stora.— Bone French hospitality. — Lake Fed- 
 
 zara. — Ain-Mokra. — Convivial evening.— Songs.— The trail of 
 a lion. — Small-game shooting. — Lions afoot. — Night-watching, 
 — Uncomfortable position. — The lion again. — His currishness.
 
 xiv CONTENTS. 
 
 — Preparations for a trip inland. — Philippeville, — Roman 
 remains. — The kindness of the French authorities. — Our 
 journey. — A strange Jehu. — Constantine. — The game of 
 Algeria, ...... Page 425 
 
 PART IV. 
 
 PRACTICAL HINTS ON FIREARMS AND 
 THEIR USE. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVL 
 
 The advantages of breech-loading guns and rifles. — The different 
 systems. — Advice on purchasing firearms. — The theory of 
 rifle practice. — Aiming, position, judging distance, and prac- 
 tical hints on shooting.— On the colour of sportsmen's dress. 
 — Table, Experiments with targets, . . 466
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 THE OLD WORLD. 
 
 PART I.-INDIA. 
 Section 1. — The Deccan. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 HYDKABAD. — ^MY FIEST DAY'S DEER-STALKING. 
 
 Leave of absence obtained. — My Mentor. — Departure. — Ab- 
 dulla-ben-Ali, the Killadar. — A Banian. — The hill-fort of 
 Bhoonghir. — Old cannon. — Native hospitality. — Visions of 
 deer. — The start. — Plenty of "slots" but no deer. — The 
 Sambur described. — His habits. — A deer-stalker's qualifica- 
 tions. — Hints. — The trail. — Walter's companion. — Tracking. 
 — The sambur's instinct. — The bark of a buck elk. — The 
 game in view. — An anxious moment. — My iirst stag. — Two 
 harts die, a third hard hit. — The chase. — Ponto brings him 
 to bay. — A good shot. — Return to camp. 
 
 In the year 184 — I was a jolly sub. in the old 
 — th Regiment, then forming part of the Hy- 
 drabad subsidiary force, and having got over the 
 
 A
 
 2 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 early troubles of my griffinage (i.e., the goose 
 step, adjutant's drill, &c.) in a weak moment after 
 dinner I obtained three days' division leave from 
 my colonel (a regular Tartar) who during the tem- 
 porary absence of General A n, was in command 
 
 of the garrison, in order to accompany my great 
 chum, "Walter M., in a sporting expedition to the 
 Jaghir of the Killadar* of the hill-fort of Bhoonghir, 
 which was about twenty miles from our canton- 
 ments. 
 
 Walter, who commanded the company to which 
 I was attached, had been my Mentor in all duty 
 matters from the day I first joined the regiment, 
 and he now undertook to initiate me in the mys- 
 teries of " Shekar," in all its branches, a task which 
 he of all others was well qualified to perform, being 
 well known as the most fearless hunter and unerring 
 shot in a country pre-eminent for the excellence of 
 its sportsmen. 
 
 .Years have rolled since poor Walter went to 
 " that bourne from whence no traveller returns ; " 
 and the kindest heart that ever warmed human 
 bosom has ceased to beat, for my friend sleeps his 
 last under the shade of a giant forest tree, and his 
 name is seldom called to mind, save when, at the 
 close of day, his old comrades assemble round the 
 social board and speak of " moving incidents by 
 flood and field;" of hair-breadth " 'scapes," of mighty 
 feats and daring deeds, and an old hand pointing to 
 
 * Killadar, the governor of a fort.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 3 
 
 some grim trophy of the chase hanging in the mess- 
 room, will tell how the daring spirit that is gone 
 plunged in some angry torrent, " and did buffet it 
 with lusty sinews" after his quarry, bearded the 
 tiger in his lair, and slew him single-handed, or 
 saved a comrade from inevitable death by the fatal 
 accuracy of his deadly aim. 
 
 Mais revenons a nos inoutons. AVe left canton- 
 ment at the first indication of dawn, and accom- 
 panied by all our people and baggage, which was 
 furthermore escorted by a corporal and three sepoys, 
 as the country was hardly deemed safe, on account 
 of predatory bands of Rohillas and Puthans, we pro- 
 ceeded along the bank or embankment of the Hus- 
 sain Sanger Tallow, an artificial lake which was up- 
 wards of thirty miles in circumference in the rainy 
 season, and passing by the princely palace of the 
 Resident of Hydrabad, we arrived at the bungalow 
 
 of Captain M , the Assistant Resident, with 
 
 whom we breakfasted ; and having rested a few 
 hom's, until the heat of the day was past, we again 
 set out, leaving the city of Hydrabad behind, 
 crossing the Moosa river by a ford, and after a 
 ride of three hours arrived at Shajehanpoor, where 
 we remained for the night, and from which 
 place the lofty hill-fort of Bhoonghir was pointed 
 out to us, looming high above the surrounding 
 hills. 
 
 At daybreak the next morning we were again in 
 the saddle, and after a pleasant ride through low
 
 4 THE HUNTING G.SOUNDS 
 
 jungle arrived at an immense banian tree, where we 
 found AbduUa-ben-Ali, the Killadar, and his son, 
 waiting for us with " Saindee " (the sap of the date 
 palm, which, when fresh, is a delightful beverage) 
 and trays of fruits and sweetmeats of different 
 kinds. 
 
 He offered us accommodation, for ourselves and 
 followers, in the fort, but we preferred encamping 
 under this magnificent banian tree, which in itself 
 was quite a grove, being of amazing size. Contrary 
 to most other vegetable productions, this tree seems 
 to be exempted from decay ; for every branch from 
 the main body throws out its own roots, at first in 
 small tender fibres several yards from the ground, 
 which continually grow thicker, until by a gradual 
 descent they reach its surface, where striking in they 
 take root, and receiving nourishment from the earth, 
 increase to large trunks, which themselves become 
 parent trees, shooting forth other branches; thus 
 continuing in a state of progression, independent of 
 the first parent of them all. A banian tree, with 
 its many trunks, forms the most beautiful walks, 
 vistas, and cool recesses that can be imagined, foi- 
 the leaves are large, soft, and of a lively green, and 
 the grateful shade it affords is infinitely preferable 
 to that of any building. The fruit is a small fig, 
 which is of a bright scarlet colour when ripe, afford- 
 ing sustenance to monkeys and birds of various 
 kinds, which dwell among the branches. We killed 
 several dozen green pigeons, besides others of dif-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 6 
 
 ferent kinds, the morning of our arrival, but the 
 next day they came just as numerous as ever. 
 
 Having seen that our tents were properly pitched 
 and our horses firmly picketed, we accompanied the 
 Killadar to his quarters in the fort, the ascent of 
 which is very steep, and almost impracticable for 
 horses, and he took us round the fortifications, which 
 were tolerably strong for a native fort, consisting, 
 as usual, of a loop-holed wall, with square bastions 
 of masonry, and a kind of fausse brae, with a line 
 of interior defences, which form the citadel. He 
 appeared to thmk the place impregnable, and neither 
 Walter nor myself cared to undeceive him, although 
 we both made up our minds that it would take 
 our troops somethmg less than an hour to get into 
 it. 
 
 He showed us some curious old native guns, one 
 of which was of very large calibre, being formed of 
 bars of iron welded together and fastened with large 
 iron hoops, and the shot, which were of stone, we 
 found to be rather heavier than we could lift. 
 
 After our inspection we adjourned to the Killa- 
 dar's house, which appeared to have been formerly 
 the gateway of an old Hindoo temple, but all the 
 images had been destroyed and replaced by stone 
 slabs bearing Persian inscriptions. We were shown 
 into the " dewan-khana," or guest-room, where a 
 very nice dinner, in the native style, was served, and 
 our host conversed with us whilst we partook of 
 his hospitality, and appeared much amused at my
 
 6 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 awkward attempts to convey the food to my mouth 
 with my fingers, a feat which I was not then ac- 
 customed to perform, although it is the ordinary 
 mode of eating among all classes and castes in India, 
 I had my turn when he came to visit us afterwards, 
 and attempted to eat with a knife and fork for the 
 first time. 
 
 After we had dined, sherbet and sweetmeats were 
 handed round, with hubble-bubbles and hookahs 
 (water-pipes,) and the Killadar informed us that 
 his shekarries * had not returned from the jungles, 
 whither he had sent them to try and find out the 
 whereabouts of a large tiger, who had been commit- 
 ting a good deal of depredation among the herds in 
 the low country ; but that if we would like a day's 
 samburf shooting, he would accompany us on the 
 morrow, and show us a place where we should be 
 nearly certain to find. 
 
 Of course we were agreeable, and after expending 
 a good deal of breath in interchanging compliments, 
 &c., we took our leave and returned to our tents, the 
 Killadar having promised to be with us before day- 
 break with masaltjies or torch-bearers, as it was 
 some short distance to the jungle where we were to 
 hunt, and early dawn was the best time to catch the 
 deer feeding. 
 
 I had never killed a deer, or, indeed, any other 
 
 large game (except a hyena, that ventured into my 
 
 compound, or garden, one night, after my dogs, and 
 
 * Shekarries, hunters. t Sambur, elk (Rusa Aristoteles.)
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 7 
 
 which I managed to knock over with a charge of 
 buck-shot,) and consequently I was in too excited a 
 state to rest much during the night, for visions of deer 
 came and vanished amidst broken slumbers, and I 
 awoke dreaming that, after a long and weary chase 
 over mountains and across ravines, I came upon a 
 monstrous stag, put up my rifle and pulled, but all in 
 vain — it would not go off, 
 
 I had only just dropped into a refreshing sleep, 
 when I was awakened by Walter beating the "British 
 Grenadiers" with his hair-brush on a huge brass 
 basin, which was formed out of one of the gongs 
 taken from the Pagoda at Rangoon. I sprung from 
 my bed as if the deer were already before me, and 
 donning my toggery, which was of moleskin of most 
 approved colour and cut, buckled on my spurs and 
 examined my rifles, whilst my servant poured out 
 some hot coffee, flavoured with but just a "threaten- 
 ing of cognac," and in a few minutes we were joined 
 by the Killadar, his son, and three or four ''juwans," 
 (young men in attendance,) and, mounting our 
 horses, we wound round the scarped side of the hill- 
 fort, and entered a long narrow defile between two 
 hills, by a narrow path running along the banks of 
 a mountain stream then nearly dry. 
 
 After a tedious ride of about two hours' duration, 
 by torchlight, the gray dawn broke over the mount- 
 tain tops, and a gentle breeze arose, just moving 
 with its refreshing breath the leaves of the loftier 
 trees ; now and then a hare or a covey of partridges
 
 8 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 sprang np on either side, and vanished amid the 
 gloom of the surrounding thickets, alarmed at the 
 noise made by the feet of our horses over the rocky- 
 path. 
 
 At last the ravine opened into a beautiful glen, in 
 which there were small patches of cultivation, and 
 here the Killadar begged us to dismount and keep 
 quiet, as the dun tenants of the waste were in the 
 habit of quitting the dense jungle during the night, 
 and browsing upon the young cholum (Indian corn) 
 in the early morning. 
 
 He sent two of his people that knew the ground 
 to reconnoitre, who, after a few minutes, came back 
 with the information that they had seen a sounder 
 of hog, but that there were no sambur on the ground, 
 although there were several places covered over 
 with fresh slots (the marks of a deer's tread.) showing 
 that they had been there during the night. 
 
 The Killadar gave vent to his disappointment by 
 a volley of strange oaths, and was for returning 
 home, but Walter begged him to remain and enjoy 
 a quiet smoke under the shade of a tree, whilst we 
 followed up tracks and attempted to stalk them. 
 This he was delighted to do, as he did not like the 
 thoughts of following up the game through the 
 thick jungle, being a stout, thick-set, phlegmatic 
 individual, hardly fit for such work. 
 
 Walter divested himself of his extraneous cloth- 
 ing, substituting a pair of thin elk-skin shoes for his 
 ordinary riding-boots, and I followed his example ;
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD, 9 
 
 then unloosening the girths of our saddles, we gave 
 strict injunctions to our people to remain quiet, and 
 sallied into the glen, accompanied by one of the men 
 who had seen the fresh slots. 
 
 I was so impatient to get on the trail, and plunge 
 at once, as it were, in medias res, that I have omit- 
 ted to describe the sambur, and also to point out the 
 properties requisite for a deer-stalker. This species 
 of deer, which is to be met with in almost all the 
 large jungles throughout India, is considerably- 
 larger than the Scotch red deer, and cannot be 
 mistaken for the same species. The horns are 
 rather upright, having two short brow antlers only, 
 and at three years old two points at the extremities 
 of each beam ; the eyes are large and very pro- 
 minent ; the ears rounded ; the tail longer, and the 
 arm more muscular than our red stags. The hair 
 immediately next to the jaw is longer than any 
 other part of the neck, and when he is alarmed or 
 excited it stands on end, and forms a kind of ruff, 
 sometimes called the mane. The colour varies 
 slightly, but is usually of very dark slate, mingled 
 with gray, nearly black about the face and points, 
 and a light buff between the haunches and under- 
 neath. The female is much smaller than the male, 
 and is of a lighter colour. 
 
 The horns vary in size, according to the age of 
 the animal, and are cast annually, not, however, 
 always at the same time, for one generally drops a 
 day or two after the other. The new horns attain
 
 10 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 their full growth in about three months, appearing 
 about a week after the old. ones are shed, and are 
 covered with a thick, leaden-coloured skin, called 
 the velvet, which, after a time, begins to fall off. 
 At this period the horns are very sensitive, and 
 the stags avoid bringing them into collision with 
 any substance. 
 
 The period of gestation in the hinds is eight 
 months. She drops the fawn in some secluded and 
 shady spot, making it lay down by pressing her 
 nose and forehead against it, after which it will 
 never stir until she comes again, for she leaves it 
 until the close of day, remaining a short distance to 
 windward, so as to be at hand in case it should be 
 found out by foxes or jackals. 
 
 The natives say, and I believe with some truth, 
 that if you find a young fawn that has never fol- 
 lowed its dam, take it up and breath in its nostrils, 
 allowing it to suck your fingers for a few moments, 
 that it will follow you for miles, becoming instantly 
 tame ; but if it has once followed its dam, for ever 
 so small a time before you found it, it will never 
 follow a human being. 
 
 The female does not cohabit with the male until 
 three years old, and never has more than one fawn 
 at a time. During the rutting season, which period 
 lasts about a week, the harts are extremely vicious, 
 and may be heard roaring all over the forests, call- 
 ing and answering each other. When they meet 
 they engage in savage conflicts, rearing themselves
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 1 1 
 
 on their hind legs, sparring with their fore-feet, 
 and butting each other with their antlers, until one 
 feels himself worsted, and leaves the herd ; the hinds, 
 who generally watch the engagement with the ut- 
 most nonchalance, bestowing their favours on the 
 conqueror. 
 
 There is no animal more shy or solitary by 
 nature than the sambur. He takes alarm from 
 every living thing in the forest; the slightest sound, 
 be it only the fall of a leaf or the scratching of a 
 jungle fowl, will scare and set him off in a mo- 
 ment. Except in certain embarrassed situations, 
 they always 7'im up wind, their great security lying 
 in their extreme keenness of scent, for they can 
 smell a taint in the air at an almost incredible dis- 
 tance. 
 
 When a hart is disabled or run down by dogs, 
 and he feels that he cannot escape by speed, he will 
 choose the best position he can, and defend himself 
 to the last extremity with his antlers. Powerful 
 dogs may pull down a full-grown stag when run- 
 ning and breathless, but not a cold hart (one that 
 has not been wounded) when he stands at bay, for 
 he takes such a sweep witb his antlers that he could 
 exterminate a whole pack, should they attack in front 
 only. 
 
 The sambur, like many other animals, seems to 
 foresee every change of weather, for they leave the 
 hills and descend into the plains whenever any rough 
 weather is about to take place.
 
 1 2 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 The deer-stalker should not only be able to run 
 like an antelope, but he should possess the bottom 
 of an Arab horse, to enable him to keep the game 
 in view ; he should be able to creep like a leopard, 
 and to run with his back bent almost double, and 
 at a pinch to wriggle himself along the ground, 
 ventre a terre, like an eeL He should be able to 
 wade or swim torrents, to keep his footing on sKp- 
 pery water-worn stones, remembering, if he does 
 fall, to keep his rifle dry, whatever becomes of his 
 wretched carcass. He should never go rashly to 
 work, keeping always cool, wary, and steady, never 
 allowing any untoward circumstances to interfere 
 with his equanimity and self-possession. 
 
 Before commencing operations, he should carefully 
 survey his line of route, marking any cover that 
 inequalities in the ground, or bushes, rocks, &c., 
 might give. I need not add, that temperance and 
 moderation go a long way to keep the hand in and 
 the nerves steady. When I first began deer-stalking, 
 my Mentor endeavoured to instil the following gene- 
 ral rules in my mind, and several years subsequent 
 experience has proved to me that his theory is cor- 
 rect. Be on your ground betimes in the morning ; 
 consult the clouds, and keep well to the leetvard, 
 even if you have to make a circuit of miles ; he 
 silent as the grave; when you step on stones or dry 
 leaves, &c., tread as lightly as a ghost ; keej) under 
 cover ; exercise extreme judgment in approaching 
 your game, which is a happy mixture of wary
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 13 
 
 caution combined with prompt decision and boldness 
 of execution. Memo. All this is useless, if you do 
 not use straight j^oiuder. 
 
 When we arrived at the cultivated ground in the 
 bed of the glen, we found marks showinir tliat a 
 large herd of sambur had been very lately feeding 
 on the young shoots of the Indian corn, for the slots 
 were quite fresh, and Walter pointed me out the 
 difference between the tread of the harts to that of 
 the hinds, the former being much larger and broad, 
 and round at the point, whereas the latter is long 
 and narrow. 
 
 One impression, which was very deeply indented 
 In the ground, measured three inches and a half at 
 the heel, and the hind feet appeared to have been 
 brought up to the same mark as that made by the 
 fore, on which account Walter concluded the slot 
 to belong to a heavy hart, who was most likely the 
 leader of the herd ; so we agreed to follow it up. 
 
 We were accompanied by a curious nondescript 
 kind of dog, a cross between an English foxhound 
 and a Bringarry greyhound, which had its ears and 
 tail cropped close to the roots, to enable it to get 
 through the jungle. He was Walter's inseparable 
 companion, and the most highly educated dog I ever 
 saw ; like his master, being perfectly aufait at every 
 kind of sport. In the jungle he never left his 
 master's heel except when set by him on the trail. 
 On scent, no jungle, however thick, or rocks, how- 
 ever steep, could check his course ; no stream, how-
 
 14 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 ever rapid, would discourage him ; he would enter 
 without splashing, cross and double about until he 
 recovered the scent and came up with his quarry, 
 which he would keep at bay until his master came. 
 He was also first-rate after small game as a retriever, 
 and was very successful in putting up florakin, (or 
 the lesser bustard), which bird generally makes a 
 practice of running when disturbed, 
 
 Walter was an adept at tracking, and under his 
 guidance we had no difficulty in following up the 
 trail, the slots not being more than an hour old. I 
 remember being much struck with the extraordinary 
 facility he had in discerning the trail over the most 
 difficult ground ; the slightest mark, an upturned 
 stone, a bruised leaf, or a bent twig, being sufficient 
 to indicate the route pursued by the game with the 
 greatest certainty. 
 
 The gift of tracldng ov following up spoor, appears 
 to be innate, or a kind of instinct, in the red men of 
 the "Far West," and to certain jungle tribes of 
 Hindostan ; but it takes careful study, great obser- 
 vation, and long experience, before "dwellers of 
 cities " are able to mark and understand /ores^ signs 
 with any certainty. 
 
 We found the elk had left the cholum fields and 
 made for a steep ravine, at the bottom of which 
 wound a mountain torrent, sometimes creeping 
 silently among mossy stones, and at others dashing 
 down over huge boulders of greenish granite, with 
 a roar like distant thunder.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 15 
 
 *' The deer evidently know this ground well, Hal," 
 exclaimed Walter, breaking silence after an hour's 
 heavy pull up and down hill, " for see, they have 
 gone up stream to find a more convenient ford, as 
 the current here is so strong that the fawns, not, 
 being able to keep their legs, would have been swept 
 away in crossing, so if you are not out of breath, we 
 will after them at once, as the quicker we get over 
 the ground the less will we have to cover, provided 
 we go about it quietly and cautiously." 
 
 On we went, sometimes on our hands and knees, 
 creeping through dense underwood, and at others 
 climbing rocks or wading watercourses, until we 
 came to place where the stream was a shallow, and 
 here it was evident that the deer had crossed very 
 lately, as water was still flowing into the deep 
 imprints made by their feet in the soft sands near 
 the banks. 
 
 "Take care not to make any splash as you go 
 over, and tread carefully, Hal," whispered Walter ; 
 "the trail is warm, and the herd cannot be far off, 
 for the slots indicate they have been going slowly, 
 browsing as they went, so they cannot have taken 
 alarm." "Go ahead," I replied, feeling, I must 
 own, rather nervous and excited, as who would 
 not be, when after his first stag ; and on we went, 
 creeping along with the utmost caution for a quarter 
 of an hour, when suddenly we heard a sharp noise, 
 like the barking of a dog, which seemed to come 
 from a dense thicket some short distance in our front.
 
 16 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 Walter pulled up at once, and I noticed Ponto, 
 his canine friend, had also caught up the sound, 
 for he had his head knowingly cocked on one side, 
 as if he was listening carefully, and his nose ele- 
 vated, as if he was trying to sniff the air, whilst a 
 small stump — an apology for a tail — made sundry 
 eccentric movements, indicating that something was 
 in the wind. 
 
 After a moment's pause, Walter touched my 
 shoulder, and whispered below his breath, " That 
 was the bark of a buck elk, so cock your rifle and 
 step in front, as I want you to kill him ; he cannot 
 be far off, therefore keep a bright look-out, and 
 be very careful not to make the slightest noise." 
 
 I stole noiselessly along the run, following the 
 slots, which were distinctly visible, until I came to a 
 more open spot, where the jungle had been burnt 
 the preceding year, and, crouching behind a thick 
 bush, I had the extreme satisfaction of seeing the 
 herd, consisting of three harts and fourteen or 
 fifteen hinds, some of which had fawns at heel, 
 quietly cropping the herbage about two hundred 
 yards distant. 
 
 It was a glorious sight, and I felt my heart 
 thump against my ribs as I gazed for some seconds, 
 too full of admiration to think of firing, when 
 Walter, touching my shoulder, whispered, "They 
 are too far off to make certain, so try and crawl 
 under cover of the bushes to that thick clump, and 
 you will get an easy shot. If you go carefully you
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 17 
 
 will not be discovered, as the wind blows strong 
 from them to us, and I will follow when I see you 
 safely posted." 
 
 I did as he desired, and we were now about a 
 hundred and twenty yards distant from the herd, 
 which, still unaware of our presence, continued 
 browsing on the young wood and tender shoots. 
 
 This was tlie anxious moment — everything 
 hitherto had succeeded ; much time had been 
 spent in tracking ; the game was before us ; and 
 all now depended on a steady hand. " Take the 
 nearest, Hal," whispered Walter, "and leave the 
 further one to me — fire when I whistle. Are you 
 ready ? " 
 
 I had covered the shoulder of a stately stag, with 
 towering antlers and a large black ruff round his 
 neck, and on the signal being given, let drive. He 
 made a bound, staggered, then fell forward, and 
 was instantly dead. 
 
 Walter, who had a very much longer shot, 
 brought another fine hart to the ground, hitting 
 him through the hind quarters, and paralysing 
 them, and as the herd rushed by, wounded another 
 as it sprang from an adjoining thicket, where it 
 must have been lying down unobserved. I heard 
 the " thud " as the ball struck against his dun side, 
 and, jumping on a rock close by, let fly with my 
 second barrel, but the shot was too high, it only 
 cracked against his horns and stunned him for a 
 moment, for he soon recovered and went off with 
 
 B
 
 18 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 the rest, seemingly as well as ever. " A splendid 
 shot, by Jupiter ! " exclaimed "Walter, " for he was 
 a good three hundred yards when you fired, but 
 you were not quick enough, and as it has failed to 
 stop him, we will first 'pay the last ofiices to the 
 fallen,' and then send Ponto on his track, for I feel 
 sure he is hard hit, and if we do not urge him 
 whilst the wound is fresh, but give it time to 
 stifien, he will be obliged to slacken his pace and 
 fall out from the rest of the herd." 
 
 Walter had shot his stag through the small of 
 the back, and although completely disabled, so as 
 not to be able to drag itself along, it was not dead, 
 and it was with some difficulty that he managed, 
 with Ponto's assistance, to plunge his long knife 
 in his chest and finish him. After we had bled, 
 opened, and " gralloched " both, we covered the 
 carcasses over with thorny bushes and stones, to 
 preserve them from the vultures, without which 
 precaution we should only have found the bones 
 when we returned with the coolies to carry away 
 the game ; and having refreshed the inner man 
 with a nip of " brandy panee," we reloaded our 
 rifles and tracked up the hart Walter had wounded, 
 which, from the size of the slots, appeared to be 
 larger than either of those we had kUled. 
 
 Here and there we found the ground dyed with 
 drops of blood, and where he rolled over when my 
 l)ullet struck his horn there was a bright crimson 
 pool, which showed that he was hard hit. "He
 
 OP THE OLD WORLD. 19 
 
 cannot travel far, Hal, in that state," said Walter, 
 "so we will set the dog after him, and I do not 
 doubt but that he will soon brin.2; him to bay. 
 Hey, Ponto! fetch him, boy." The intelligent 
 animal looked up in his master's face, as if he 
 could there read what was required of him, then 
 made a cast with his nose along the ground, until 
 he got scent of the wounded deer, when off he set 
 at speed. 
 
 We followed at our best pace, and after a sharp 
 run, had the gratification of hearing Ponto's deep 
 tongue echoing among the rocks. " Bravo, my 
 dog ! " cried Walter ; " keep up, Hal, for five 
 minutes longer, for by that cry I know the stag 
 is at bay." We tore down the slope of the hill 
 leading to the river, and there he was, standing 
 in the torrent, every now and then menacing 
 Ponto with bis antlers, who was swimming in the 
 stream, and had enough to do to evade his frantic 
 rushes. 
 
 I was quite out of breath and powerless with the 
 run, but Walter, standing up, at once firm and col- 
 lected, took a deliberate aim with his unerring 
 rifle ; an echo was heard rumbling among the 
 rocks, and the stag, taking a mighty spring, 
 plunged into the stream, shot through the brain, 
 and rose a lifeless thing. 
 
 The current, which was extremely rapid, bore 
 the carcass down for some distance, dashing it 
 amongst the rocks and whirling it in the eddies,
 
 20 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 
 
 and we had considerable difficulty in getting down 
 to drag it out, as the ravine was very steep and 
 full of precipices and huge rocks. At last we 
 managed to haul him high and dry on the bank, 
 and having gralloched and covered him over with 
 branches and stones, we set off for the spot where 
 we had left the Killadar some five or six hours be- 
 fore. Just awakened from sleep, he had no idea 
 that we had been away so long, and fancied we 
 were joking when we told him of our sport. 
 
 He sent his people, guided by Ponto, to sling 
 the venison on poles and bring it in, and " there 
 was a sound of revelry by night" in his little for- 
 tress, for after sending a couple of haunches into 
 cantonment, we divided the rest among his fol- 
 lowers. I turned in that night very tired, and con- 
 siderably bruised with sundry falls, but delighted 
 with the success of my first day's deer-stalking. 
 
 On the following morning the Killadar got us up 
 a beat in the ravine where a tiger had been seen 
 some days previously, but it proved " a blank ;" and 
 the day after, " our leave being up," we had to bid 
 adieu to our native friends and return to canton- 
 ment.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 HOG-HUNTING. 
 
 The fortress of Golconda. — The Tombs of the Kings. — The 
 gardens. — Persian inscriptions. — The gathering. — Plan of 
 operations. — Iteminiscences of the past. — The start. — The 
 rendezvous. — My nag Lai Babba. — A moment of suspense. — 
 The find. — We're away. — The chase. — The first blood. — A 
 purl. — The advantages of being on good terms with one's nag. 
 — The tug of war. — Exciting moments. — The struggle for 
 the spear. — It is won. — The charge. — Mischief ensues. — The 
 death of the boar. — The wounded hog -hunter. — The death of 
 an old friend. — The trysting-tree. — The trophies. — The re- 
 turn to cantonment. 
 
 It was evening ; the oppressive glare and over- 
 powering heat of the day were gone, and the 
 sun was setting with that gorgeous magnificence 
 which is rarely to be seen e?:cept in " land of the 
 cedar and vine." His last expiring rays tinged 
 the whole of the heavens, from the western horizon 
 to the zenith, with indescribably beautiful gold and 
 crimson hues, and striking upon the numerous gilt 
 pinnacles of the mosques and minarets which rose 
 above the castellated walls of the hill- fort of Gol- 
 conda, formed a contrast with the deep verdure of 
 the mango groves and the lighter foliage of the
 
 22 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 graceful tamaxind, on which the eye rested with 
 delight. 
 
 On the one hand lay Golconda, with its lofty 
 rock-built citadel, bastioned walls, and loop-holed 
 battlements ; and on the other rose those magni- 
 ficent structures of ancient days, the tombs of the 
 kings, with their massive domes, gigantic cupolas, 
 towering minarets, and stately piazzas. 
 
 Many changes have taken place since the last 
 of the Kootub Shawee dynasty was placed in his 
 regal sepulchre. His kingdom has passed away 
 into the hands of strangers, and his very name is 
 now forgotten in the land where he was once pre- 
 eminent ; still, these time-worn but stately monu- 
 ments will attest to many succeeding generations 
 the splendour and magnificence of the ancient rulers 
 of Hindostan. 
 
 No such works are carried on in the present day ; 
 and what makes these buildings more remarkable 
 is, that the immense blocks of granite with which 
 they are constructed have had to be transported 
 from long distances, none being procurable in the 
 immediate vicinity. The stupendous domes of 
 these royal mausoleums were formerly ornamented 
 with inlaid enamel of difierent colours, forming 
 beautiful arabesques ; but time, aided by the de- 
 predations of the ignorant, has succeeded in ob- 
 literating a great part, and it is only in the more 
 sheltered and out-of-the-way places that this beau- 
 tiful enamel can be seen in the same freshness of
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 23 
 
 colour as it exhibited when first laid on. The 
 wilful damage these relics of the past have sus- 
 tained is the more to be regretted, as the very art 
 of making this beautiful enamel has been forgotten. 
 The gray granite walls in the interior are beauti- 
 fully carved, and in some places the doorways and 
 ornamented niches are of highly-polished black 
 granite. 
 
 The largest of the tombs will contain about 8,000 
 people, it being built in the shape of a square, 
 having a verandah with forty-eight arches all round. 
 Some of the pillars are carved out of single blocks 
 of granite ; and I noticed slabs with which the in- 
 terior is paved upwards of sixty feet in length. 
 Under the centre of the dome is the tomb itself, 
 hewn out of a solid piece of black granite, highly 
 polished as the finest marble, and covered with 
 beautifully carved arabesques, Persian inscriptions, 
 and verses from the Koran. 
 
 At each corner of the building is a small arch- 
 way, and a circular staircase in the thickness of 
 the wall, leading to the tops of the minarets, from 
 the upper galleries of which the Moussins used to 
 call " the faithful " to prayer at five certain times 
 during the day. In capacious vaults below are 
 the tombs of the wives, favourite mistresses, and 
 children of the kings, also of black polished 
 marble, covered with inscriptions. Besides the 
 seven large tombs there are several smaller ones, 
 also numerous Mosques, Eedgahs, Shrines, Tanks.
 
 24 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 Baths, Durm-salahs, (almshouses), Caravanserais, 
 and Choultrees, for the accommodation of pilgrims 
 and travellers, which are falling to ruin from 
 neglect. 
 
 There is a very tolerably kept up garden round 
 one of the tombs, in vrhich the mangoe, orange, 
 lime, citron, pumelow, fig, jack-fruit, pomegranate, 
 plantain, cocoa-nut, vine, and betel-nut flourish. 
 It is a delightful place, and quite in the Oriental 
 style, having long shaded avenues, with stone 
 borders, numerous fountains, and streams of run- 
 ning water on each side, to irrigate the plants. 
 Parterres of roses and Indian jessamine load the 
 air with the most delicious fragrance, and at in- 
 tervals are beautiful "kiosks" or garden-houses, 
 of the most elaborate and delicately carved Sara- 
 cenic architecture, profusely ornamented with ara- 
 besques and quaint Arabic and Persian inscrip- 
 tions, some of which I took the trouble of deci- 
 phering, and found them to be guzzels, or verses, 
 in which some fair beauty is described " as having 
 dark, almond-shaped eyes, in which the purity of 
 her heart was reflected : hut which committed more 
 destruction among the hearts of men than the 
 double-edged sword of Bustum ; whose voice was 
 like the evening song of the Bul-hul, mingled with 
 the distant m,urmu7'ing of many waters; whose 
 beauty made the rose turn pale with envy, and the 
 passion flower drop to the ground from jealousy ; 
 whose gait was graceful as that of the silver moon
 
 OF TEE OLD WORLD, 25 
 
 sailing through the firmament; whose lips were 
 more delicious to taste than the rosy wine of 
 Slieraz: whose smile gladdened the heart of all 
 beholders, which became water in the presence of 
 the lovely one." Numerous fountains to cool the 
 air, and places for streams of running water, en- 
 circled many of these retreats; but the former 
 would not play, and the latter were choked up, 
 from neglect, and falling into ruin. 
 
 The large tomb was appointed the rendezvous 
 for a party of hog-hunters, of which I formed one ; 
 and the number of cots stowed away in the numer- 
 ous recesses round the interior of the building, 
 showed that the "meet" would be well attended. 
 Almost under the centre of the cupola, numerous 
 gaily dressed attendants were engaged in laying out 
 a table for dinner, and in the verandah, knots of 
 Anglo-Indian officers, of all ranks, were sitting, with 
 their feet resting against the stone pillars, or on 
 tables, enjoying the comparative coolness of the even- 
 ing breeze. A light and airy costume, consisting 
 of silk long drawers, shirt sleeves, and slippers, was 
 the order of the day — some of the dandies amongst 
 us indulging their penchant by " coming out " in 
 gorgeous smoking caps, fancy muslin shirts, gold 
 or silver kinkob pajamas (loose drawers,) and em- 
 broidered papouches (slippers.) 
 
 "We were a motley gathering of all arms. There 
 were Light Cavalry and Light Bobs, Queen's and 
 Company's, Kegulars and Irregulars, old weather-
 
 26 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 beaten veterans, bearded like the Druids of old, who 
 had passed a quarter of a century in the country ; 
 and smooth-faced youngsters, who had not yet passed 
 the first year of their griffinage ; yet all were in 
 the same state of excitement at the thoughts of the 
 morrow's sport. 
 
 As we sat, waiting until dinner was announced, 
 enjoying the murmuring, gurgling melody of our 
 hookahs, or the fragrant weed in the shape of a 
 
 Manilla or Trichinopoly cheroot, N , who was 
 
 the originator of the expedition, proceeded to unfold 
 the programme of the morrow's sport. 
 
 We were to partake of an early breakfast at three 
 A.M., and mounting our hacks, were to proceed to 
 the scene of action, near Raneepet, a village about 
 twelve miles distant, where our tents and best cross- 
 country horses had been despatched the day previous. 
 Our shekarries and beaters had marked down several 
 sounders (herds) of hog in a long strip of low jungle 
 contiguous to some tolerable riding ground, and had 
 formed a chain, so as to prevent them making their 
 way back into the denser cover. 
 
 As the moon was nearly at the full, and the dis- 
 tance but short, beating was to commence at day- 
 light, and first-rate sport was anticipated, for we 
 
 had some old hands amongst us — such as J) , 
 
 S , N , C , and , who were well 
 
 known as the best spears and the boldest riders in 
 the Deccan, where hog-hunting, ever the favourite 
 sport, was carried on in the greatest perfection, so
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 27 
 
 that the first sportsmen of India came from far-off 
 stations to display their skill, and the goodness and 
 courage of their cattle, at these meetings. 
 
 As it became dusk, some one sounded the dinner- 
 call on a key-bugle, which had a very fine effect, as 
 the sound was echoed in the dome several times, 
 as also among the other tombs. We sat down, 
 nearly thirty, to table ; and after the clattering of 
 knives and forks, and the popping of corks, had 
 subsided, we withdrew to one of the kiosks or 
 pleasure houses in the garden, where songs and 
 brandy panee* passed round freely until a late 
 hour. 
 
 Since that night many long years have glided on, 
 and I have wandered over half the globe ; still, 
 when I hear those old, familiar airs, the scene often 
 comes before my eyes, and I think I see the well- 
 remembered features of my old associates, in the 
 forest and the field, who used to sing them, al- 
 though I know that many sleep beneath the sod, 
 having fallen on the field, or been cut off by pesti- 
 lence in the flower of their years, and the few sur- 
 vivors are scattered, and I have lost sight of most 
 of them. India is not, perhaps, a land to live in 
 from choice, still my heart clings to it with a kind 
 of unhallowed love ; for it ever appeared to me to 
 possess a peculiarly fascinating charm, which I have 
 found wanting elsewhere. Memory takes me back 
 to those happy days I passed in that glorious land ; 
 * Brandy .ind water.
 
 28 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 and as I look around my boyhood's home, in my 
 native land, (which to me long absence has given a 
 novel freshness,) and see the trophies of many a 
 hard-fought field, and the spoils of my rifle and the 
 spear hanging against the wall, I often think with 
 affectionate regret of my old companions, and dream 
 of the land 
 
 " Where the maidens are soft as the roses they twine, 
 And all, save the spirit of man, is divine." 
 
 In the morning, at the time appointed, a bugle 
 again rang through the place, and we were soon 
 round the breakfast-table, equipped in leathers and 
 boots. Some of the old hands had also samhur 
 (elk) skin jackets, and all wore hunting-caps. We 
 were soon in the saddle, and after a couple of hours' 
 canter by the light of the moon, arrived at our tents, 
 which were pitched under a stately banian, under 
 whose widely spreading arms some sixty Arabs were 
 picketed, each being groomed by his respective syce 
 (horsekeeper.) 
 
 Coffee, brandy and soda water, and cheroots, &c., 
 were handed round, and half-an-hour was allowed 
 for the saddling, when a messenger came from the 
 head man of the village (who was with the beaters) 
 to say that the hogs were undisturbed, and that all 
 was in readiness. 
 
 The tree under which our encampment was pitched 
 must have been of great age, for underneath were 
 the ruins of a small Hindoo temple, which bore traces 
 of great antiquity. Some of the shoots of the trunk
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 29 
 
 had insinuated themselves amid the masonry, and 
 appeared to grow out of the roof. 
 
 The scene around was very picturesque ; craggy 
 hills were towering above the sea of forest in every 
 direction, and a beautiful lake lay between us and 
 the village, on which water-fowl of different kinds 
 were distinctly heard. Partridges were calling all 
 around as we mounted, and the first streaks of dawn 
 were visible in the East. 
 
 I was mounted on a very favourite chestnut Arab, 
 called Lai Babba, (Lai signifies red, and Babba is a 
 term of endearment, generally used towards children,) 
 full of fire, and who seemed to be as eager for the 
 sport as any of us. He was of a very high caste, of 
 great courage, yet exceedingly docile, having a good 
 mouth — an essential quality in a hog-hunter, and 
 a famous cross-country horse, although small, not 
 being over fourteen hands two inches ; but ex- 
 tremely active, very swift, and of great endurance, 
 and I felt, as he bounded under me, that he was in 
 first-rate working condition, and would not disgrace 
 me. 
 
 We cantered out to the scene of action, which 
 was about half-a-mile from our tents, mustering 
 twenty-seven well-mounted horsemen, and as soon 
 as we had all taken post, two and two, some short 
 distance from each other, like videttes, in the dry 
 bed of a nullah, or watercourse, the banks of which 
 hid us from view, the signal was given, and the beat 
 commenced.
 
 30 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 "We waited some twenty minutes without being 
 able to distinguish anything, although we heard the 
 distant sounds of tomtoms (a kind of drum,) and 
 cholera horns, (a huge brass trumpet shaped like the 
 letter S.) 
 
 After some time we began to discover, here and 
 there, a long line of men slowly advancing through 
 the bushes, and when they got near enough for us 
 to distinguish their turbans and black faces, the 
 yells and ferocious shouts, together with the wild 
 flourishes of the cholera horn, the rolling of tom- 
 toms, and the constant discharge of matchlocks and 
 rockets, made them appear like some wild horde 
 advancing to attack us, with some slight show of 
 discipline. 
 
 As they closed upon us the din became horrid, and 
 their screams and yells were more discordant than 
 ever, when suddenly loud cries were heard along the 
 line of " Soor ! soor ! (hog ! hog !) Kalee j an war ! " 
 (black beasts) and each horseman stood up in his 
 stirrups and strained his eyes to ascertain which 
 way the game had broken. It was an anxious 
 moment, and intense excitement was depicted on 
 every face, as we waited impatiently in our hiding- 
 place for the signal bugle which was to announce 
 the start. 
 
 At last the long-wished-for note rang forth ; each 
 horseman grasped his spear, crushed his hunting- 
 cap firmly on his head, dug in his spurs, and sprang 
 from his cover at speed upon the plain. A sounder
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 31 
 
 of seven hog were seen scouring over the ground at 
 a tolerable pace, some four hundred yards from the 
 cover from which they had broken. 
 
 As soon as they heard the tramp of our horses 
 approaching, they increased their speed, and a huge 
 gray boar fell back to the rear, champing his tushes 
 and tearing up the ground in a most threatening 
 manner. As our object was to force them further 
 into the plain, so as to cut them off and prevent 
 their returning into the jungle, we rode slowly for 
 the first quarter of a mile, then our pace increased, 
 and we went fairly in at them. When we ap- 
 proached they separated, and some of the youngsters 
 of our party made after four sows which kept off to 
 our left. 
 
 Although the pace was now becoming severe for 
 some time, we appeared to gain but little on the 
 boar, who, with a couple of sows, dashed away in 
 a gallant style, clearing en o^oute a nullah, (water- 
 course,) which brought many of the field to a check. 
 
 Lai Babba was doing his work well, although 
 he had become so excited with the chase that I bad 
 some little trouble in keeping him in hand. We 
 cleared a yawning chasm which, though not more 
 than nine feet wide, was difficult, as the opposite 
 bank was two feet higher than the near one. Hear- 
 ing a burst of laughter behind from , I turned 
 
 my head, and saw five or six of our number rolling 
 in the dust, and one seemed hors de combat. 
 
 Still on we tore, the field becoming more select.
 
 o2 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 not numbering more than a baker's dozen. We 
 now had a good burst, and one of the sows lagging 
 behind, bit the dust after having twice charged in 
 
 a most gallant manner. N claimed the first 
 
 blood of the day. 
 
 The pace was now becoming tremendous, and 
 
 the second sow was rolled over by S , 
 
 and D , whose spears were applied several times 
 
 before we heard the final squeal (the signal of dis- 
 solution), 
 
 I kept steadily after the boar, and by this diver- 
 sion gained a couple of lengths ahead, when my 
 horse put his foot on the loose stump of a tree 
 and rolled over, giving me a header which made 
 me see a considerable number of stars, and left me 
 rather confused for the moment. On swept the 
 field, which I could see was " tailing off" very con- 
 siderably ; and after I had ascertained that no bones 
 were broken, and Lai Babba had given himself a 
 shake, I sprang into the saddle again, and was once 
 more en route. 
 
 I was very much thrown out by this spill, and had 
 lost ground, but, as luck would have it, the hog made 
 for a deep ravine, having a drop of more than a 
 dozen feet, which brought our field to a check. 
 The boar managed to scramble down, and running 
 along the bottom of the nullah for some distance, 
 climbed up the opposite bank. 
 
 After riding some distance along the edge of the 
 chasm, which was overgrown in places by stunted
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 33 
 
 bush, I found a place which was a little more practi- 
 cable, though the drop was still about eight feet 
 deep, and the slope of the bank very steep. One 
 more chance, thought I, springing from my horse, 
 taking off the saddle and tying up the bridle — Lai 
 Babba and I were old friends, and he would follow 
 me like a dog — I threw the saddle into the bed of 
 the nullah, and scrambled down afterwards myself. 
 I then called liim by naine several times, and lie 
 came trotting along the bank as if he was seeking 
 a more suitable place to descend. He then returned 
 to that part of the bank down which I had scrambled, 
 and stood pawing the edge hesitatingly. I again 
 called him, and pretended to turn away down the 
 bed of the nullah, when I shall never forget his ap- 
 pearance as he stood cocking his ears and laying his 
 head on one side, as he watched my motions with 
 evident distress. He remained motionless a mo- 
 ment, as if he was considering what was to be 
 done, then gave a loud whinny, sprang, and in 
 a moment was rubbing his nose against my 
 shoulder. 
 
 I patted him on the shoulder, and talked to him 
 as I adjusted the saddle, and from his intelligent 
 looks one would have thought he understood every 
 word I said. I then walked along the bed of the 
 nullah for some little distance, and we managed to 
 scramble up the opposite bank, at a place which was 
 not so steep. 
 
 I then looked around for the hog, and at length 
 
 c
 
 34 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 discovered him jogging along at a very easy pace, 
 about a quarter of a mile off, in the plain. I made 
 after him, having first dipped my pocket-handker- 
 chief in a pool of the nullah, washed the dust from 
 the mouth and nose of Lai Babba, and given him a 
 mouthful of water in my hunting-cap to refresh 
 him ; and, in a short time, found myself within fifty 
 yards of the boar, who evidently exhibited signs of 
 distress, for he reeled from side to side, as he ran 
 with his head strained forward, and his flanks heaved 
 and were covered with foam, 
 
 I was now joined by N , , S , 
 
 D , C , and W , who came up with 
 
 their horses nearly " pumped," as they had had to 
 ride nearly a mile down the nullah before they could 
 find a place to cross. 
 
 We were perceptibly gaining upon our prey, when, 
 with a burst of recovered speed, he swerved off to 
 the left, and in a moment I saw amid a few bushes 
 a break in the ground, about a hundred yards in 
 advance. I knew another "yawner" was ahead, 
 and took a pull of my horse, so as to get him more 
 in hand, and gather him together for the leap. 
 
 This let N and C get a couple of lengths 
 
 ahead, and S and T were neck and neck, 
 
 closely followed by , J)- , and W . 
 
 The hog cleared a deep chasm like a bird, and we 
 all followed except W , whose horse fell on land- 
 ing, giving him a heavy fall, and rolling over him. 
 The ground now became firmer, the pace was terrific ;
 
 OP THE OLD WORLD. 3) 
 
 and now came the tu<; of war for the honour of the 
 spear — suddenly the hog, which was not more than 
 a dozen horses' lengths in advance, disappeared. 
 " What 's that ? " cried some one behind. " God 
 
 knows," cried N , ramming his hunting-cap 
 
 down over his eyes, and in another moment we had 
 leaped the steep bank of a nullah, (a perpendicular 
 drop of about seven feet,) and were floundering in 
 sand and water. 
 
 D got an ugly fall, his horse rolling over 
 
 him, and putting him hors de combat ; S also 
 
 found his horse sprained in the stifle, and he had 
 
 also to pull up. N , C , , and myself, 
 
 managed to scramble up the opposite bank, and 
 were once more on terra firma. 
 
 The pace was very severe, and began to tell ; and 
 although Lai Babba appeared less distressed than 
 the other horses, I knew he could not last much 
 longer. Still, on we went. I was neck and neck 
 
 with N , and C and were close 
 
 behind. We were evidently fast closing with the 
 hog, when we came to another yawning chasm, of 
 which he made " an in and out." " Never say die," 
 
 cried N , and over it we both flew, landing safely 
 
 on the other side, (it was a good thirteen feet from 
 
 bank to bank.) 's horse fell with him, and 
 
 C 's was fairly done up to a stand-still, so we 
 
 left them both behind. 
 
 The game now lay between N and myself. 
 
 He rode a splendid large-made Arab, of high caste.
 
 S6 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 called Bidgeley, (lightning,) well known throughout 
 the Deccan as a hog-hunter. My horse was smaller, 
 but I had the advantage in weight of at least a stone, 
 besides which, Lai Babba had been spared the 
 long run down the banks of the ravine, and had not 
 had the lost ground to make up, which told severely 
 on the other horses. 
 
 We were now upon a bit of very fair riding ground, 
 and the boar was not more than a couple of spear- 
 lengths ahead. The pace was too good to last long, 
 
 and I could see it was telling severely on N 's 
 
 horse, who was doing all he knew to keep him 
 together. We were neck and neck, and now came the 
 
 " struggle " for the spear. N made a vigorous 
 
 attempt to hustle his horse, but without avail. Sit- 
 ting steadily in my saddle, I gained the lead and 
 kept it easily, Lai Babba following every twist and 
 turn of the boar, like a greyhound after a hare. 
 The tusker, now evidently nearly done, was slacken- 
 ing his space, and reeling from side to side as he 
 ran. Another moment, and the point of my spear 
 was among his bristles — a touch of the heel — a lift 
 of the bridle — a chiffney rush — and the victory was 
 won. The blade of my spear was planted deeply 
 into his loins. 
 
 With a ferocious grunt, a rolling of the eyes 
 which portended mischief, and a champing of his 
 tushes, he turned short round and charged. I 
 wheeled Lai Babba round on his haunches, just in
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. ^7 
 
 time to evade his frantic rush ; he passed me like a 
 
 sliot on the near side, and attacked N , who was 
 
 a couple of lengths behind, who received the charge 
 on the point of iiis spear ; I saw the bamboo shaft 
 bend like a wand, and then fly high up into the air ; 
 another second — I heard a crash, and horse and man 
 were rolling in the dust. 
 
 In the twinkling of an eye I was alongside the 
 infuriated animal, who was indulging in a series of 
 grunts of defiance, preparatory to another charge, 
 and, watching my opportunity, I buried the blade of 
 my spear behind the shoulder-blade, and drove it 
 out of his breast. He uttered a faint squeal, (the 
 note of departing life,) gave a sudden twi^st, (his ex- 
 piring eilbrt,) which wrenched the spear from my 
 hand, struggled a few paces further, fell, and bit the 
 dust, dying game to the last. 
 
 I dismounted and drew my hunting-knife across 
 his throat to let out the blood, loosened the girths of 
 my saddle, and then went back to see what had be- 
 come of N . 
 
 I found him sitting on the ground, with his face 
 buried in his hands, in great distress, for his horse 
 was struggling in the agonies of death a few paces 
 from him. The boar, in charging, had ripped up his 
 belly, his tushes cutting like a knife, and the intes- 
 tines, also much injured, were protruding from the 
 wound, I saw at a glance that it was a hopeless 
 case, and tapping N on the shoulder, I give a
 
 38 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 significant look to a small pistol that I always carried 
 loaded in my belt on such occasions, in case of 
 accidents. 
 
 He understood what was passing in my mind, 
 walked up to his dying serviteur, and patted his 
 neck. The poor animal, in spite of his agony, recog- 
 nised his master, for he raised himself up partly 
 from the ground, and rubbed his nose against his 
 
 shoulder in a most affectionate manner. N 
 
 kissed his forehead, and, passing his hand across 
 his eyes, rushed into the jungle, saying, " Do not let 
 him linger." When his back was turned, I placed 
 the muzzle of my pistol to the suffering animal's 
 temple, and pulled the trigger — a slight quiver of 
 the body followed the report, and " Bidgeley " was 
 
 dead. N cut off some of the hair of his forelock 
 
 and tail for a souvenir, I slung his saddle and bridle 
 over Lai Babba's back, and we slowly retraced our 
 way towards the tent. 
 
 We soon fell in with and C , who were 
 
 reclining under a tree, as their horses were quite 
 done up ; and in a short time our syces (grooms) 
 came up with fresh mounts. After having directed 
 them where to find the hog, we mounted and rode 
 into camp — a distance of eight miles ; the boar 
 having led us a chase of at least seven. 
 
 We had a fearfully hot ride, as the sun had risen 
 high above the horizon, and there was not a cloud to 
 intercept his rays ; the sultriness was getting more 
 and more oppressive, and we found the wind scorch-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 39 
 
 ing. To add to our distress, every now and then a 
 "pishash," cr whirlwind of dust, came twirling 
 amongst us, filling our eyes and mouths. 
 
 At last, as our encampment came in view, we 
 could distinguish six hogs hanging to our trysting- 
 tree ; and shortly afterwards the boar was hoisted 
 up alongside of them. He was a huge brute, 
 measuring thirty-eight inches in height at the 
 shoulder, and his tushes were nearly nine inches in 
 length. 
 
 We sat down to a substantial breakfast, (pork chops 
 forming one of the items,) and in the cool of the even- 
 ingwe returned to cantonment, some of us with aching 
 bones and curious bumps on the cranium, which would 
 have puzzled Gall or Spurtzheim ; others with strips 
 of diachylum plaster on the face ; and all of us with 
 cracked lips and sunburnt faces. Our horses, too, 
 showed their work, and " our gayness and our gilt 
 were all besmerched." Still every one was content 
 with the sport, and the incidents of the day afforded 
 us ample topics of conversation when we met at 
 
 Mess, when N was heard consoling himself for 
 
 his loss, by ob.serving that Bidcgley had died as his 
 master hoped to do — " on the field in the moment 
 of victory."
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 MULKAPOOR. 
 
 "Here couch'd the panting tiger on the wal^*h; 
 Impatient but unmoved, his fire-ball eyes 
 Made horrid twilight in the sunless jungle 
 Till on the heedless buffalo he sprang, 
 Dragg'd the low bellowing monster to his lair, 
 Crash'd through his ribs into his heart — 
 QuafF'd the hot blood, and gorged the quivering flesh 
 Till drunk he lay, as powerless as the carcass." 
 
 Our camp. — Mulkapoor. — The Patel. — Good news of shekar. — 
 
 W ^"s family, — Scheme for a Nautch. — The Begum. — 
 
 Her love of good liquor. — The prescription. — Chineah and 
 my shekar gang. — The doctor's ruse. — News of a man- 
 eater. — Departure of the gang. 
 
 It was a fine morning, soon after sunrise, in the 
 month of March, 18 — , when I arrived at the little 
 village of Mulkapoor, two days' march from Hydra- 
 bad, in the Deccan, in command of some irregular 
 cavalry which, with two companies of native in- 
 fantry, formed the travelling escort of a begum (a 
 lady of rank) and her daughter, who, with a large 
 suite of followers and attendants of both sexes, was 
 en route for the Presidency. The cavalcade con-
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 41 
 
 sisted of numerous elephants, camels, palanquins, 
 tonjons, hackeries, and vehicles of every description 
 and colour, accompanied by a large body of gaudily- 
 dressed mounted attendants. 
 
 The principal personages occupied the public 
 bungalow, round which high canvas walls had 
 been placed, and sentries posted, so as to prevent 
 intrusion, and render it entirely private ; besides 
 which numerous black eunuchs guarded the fold, 
 and seemed to take a jealous care 
 
 "That none should pierce the secret bower, 
 But those who watch the women's tower." 
 
 The troops and camp-followers halted on the 
 open ground in front of the traveller's bungalow, 
 and in a few short moments tents of every descrip- 
 tion uprose as if by magic ; elephants, camels, and 
 horses were eating quietly at their pickets ; and 
 In less time than it takes me to write, this little 
 clearing from the surrounding jungle was con- 
 verted into a busy camp. 
 
 The scenery about Muikapoor is very wild and 
 beautiful. On all sides are ranges of hills, some 
 covered with luxuriant jungle, others presenting 
 bold scarped rocks and naked fantastic peaks, 
 whilst in every direction from amongst the dense 
 foliase noble forest trees towered like giants above 
 the lower waving jungle. 
 
 The scene in camp, though of everyday occur- 
 rence in India, would appear curious enough to a
 
 42 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 stranger, and merits description, for the noise of 
 the trumpeting of elephants, the jingling of the 
 camels' bells, the neighing of horses, the lowing 
 of carriage bullocks, the bargaining of sepoys and 
 camp-followers with the bazaar men, was only 
 heightened by the chase of a stray capon, whose 
 errant ways were calling forth the indignation of 
 my raaity (cook) " Five minutes," (a cognomen he 
 had acquired from the invariable answer he gave 
 when anything was wanted,) who, joined by half 
 a dozen sepoys, was shying his slippers at this 
 victim devoted to " sudden death " for our break- 
 fast, and venting their spleen by abusing its fe- 
 male relations up to the tenth generation. Three 
 English oflBcers belonging to the detachment of 
 infantry, and a Scotch doctor, who had medical 
 charge of the party, had taken refuge under a 
 large tamarind tree from the rays of the sun, that 
 was rising high on a sky which had not a cloud 
 upon it to intercept his beams, and were discussing 
 brandy panee, tea, and manilla cheroots, waiting 
 until their tents were properly established. 
 
 As I joined the group, the old patel, or head 
 man of the village, came up, and having presented the 
 customary lime, performed a series of low salaams 
 to each of the party. He then drew up his hands 
 too-ether in token of respect, and begged us to ex- 
 cuse his not having made more preparations for 
 our reception, stating " that he had only received 
 intimation of our coming the day before, and that.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 43 
 
 on account of this short notice, he had become 
 * lachar ' (desperately miserable) when he thought 
 that, perhaps, we might want something that he 
 had not had time to provide." 
 
 As the old man had provided plenty of " gram " 
 (beans) and forage for our horses, with a fine table 
 sheep and fat fowls for ourselves, we declared our- 
 selves satisfied, ujion which his face brightened up, 
 and stroking down his long gray beard, he ex- 
 claimed several times in a very complaisant manner, 
 "Allah talah!" "Al-hunida lillah ! " (thank God! 
 God be praised !) 
 
 " I should much like to halt a few days here," 
 said Mac, the senior subaltern, addressing Captain 
 
 W , who commanded the infantry detachment, 
 
 " for there must be splendid shooting in those dense 
 ravines." 
 
 " Yes," answered W , " it looks quite ' a 
 
 tigerish spot,' What say you, old man ? Have 
 you not plenty of 'shekar'* here?" continued he, 
 addressing the patel. 
 
 " Yes, sahib," answered he, " there is plenty of 
 shekar to be found in these jungles. Tigers, bison, 
 bears, panthers, elk, milghau, antelope, and spotted 
 deer are to be found, besides all kinds of small 
 game ; but if the ' sahib log ' (gentlemen) wish to 
 be successful, they must take some one with them 
 who knows the haunts of the animals ; so, with 
 your permission, I will take my leave for the pre- 
 
 * " Shekar," sport.
 
 44) THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 sent, and fetch Kistimali the peon (policeman) and 
 Veerepah the dhoby, (washerman,) both of whom 
 are good (' shekarries ') hmiters, and will be useful to 
 your honours." So saying, he made a profound 
 obeisance, and retired gracefully. 
 
 As he strode away, I heard him muttering audi- 
 bly, though rather sotto voce, " Oh, fool of an old 
 man that you are, what have you done ? Your face 
 will become black before the sahib log, if neither 
 the peon nor the dhoby are to be found ; and if, 
 ' God helping,' they should be at home, still, per- 
 haps, those jungle animals of defiled fathers will 
 not allow themselves to be seen, and again I shall 
 eat dirt. Abah ! Abah ! Toba ! " 
 
 " Well, my chickens ! " exclaimed W , " as 
 
 the old Moslem gives so favourable an account of 
 the place, I think we cannot do better than halt a 
 day or two, provided the old begum raises no ob- 
 jections to the proposition, for I have another 
 strong reason for wishing to remain here a short 
 time, which is, that our supply of liquor will not 
 last the trip, if we get on as fast as we have done, 
 for when it was ordered, I did not think we should 
 have made it quite such thirsty weather. By stop- 
 ping here a few days, I shall be enabled to send a 
 coolie to the Mess for a couple of chests more of 
 Bass's pale; for, between ourselves, this hot and 
 dusty weather, beer is as necessary to keep one up 
 to the mark, as my grass-cutter's wife's milk is to 
 my bereaved Brinjarry pups, whose canine mother
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 45 
 
 (lied in convulsions, leaving her orphan progeny to 
 my paternal care, and I, like a good guardian, have 
 turned them over to the care of my grass-cutter's 
 wife, who nurses and suckles all six, with her own 
 little animal ; and as they tumble about in her lap, 
 howling, squalling, and caterwauling, I think the 
 father would have some difficulty in swearing as to 
 which was his own. He, however, looks upon his 
 wife's services as a good speculation, as I feed her 
 well, and he pockets an extra pagoda * a month ; 
 for the other day the scoundrel came up to me, 
 grinning and showing his teeth, with the request to 
 be permitted to provide another wife to bring up 
 the Poligar greyhound's litter ; and when I did not 
 agree to his proposal, he had the impudence to try 
 and persuade me that his wife's family were all 
 growing ' berry handsome ' about the face, on ac- 
 count of the good milk." 
 
 " Well," answered Jock, " I must say they appear 
 to be a very thriving family, and do credit to their 
 ' bringings up,' But what do you say to my pro- 
 posal of politely insinuating to the begum, that 
 time hangs heavily on our hands in the evenings, 
 and that a nautch (dance) now and then would be 
 much appreciated, for I am quite sure some of her 
 dancing girls would prefer enlivening our spare 
 hours to wasting their sweetness on the desert air. 
 Do you not think a gentle hint, or a polite intima- 
 tion of the general wish, with our united salaam 
 * Pagoda — three rupees and a half.
 
 4G THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 would have the desired effect with the khanum 
 sahiba (lady) ? " 
 
 " Hout awa, luon," put in the doctor ; " if that 's 
 your game, I should just guess you'd be better 
 leaving the leetle delicate affair to me, as I 'm in- 
 vited to visit her ladyship this morning." 
 
 " What ? Eh ? What 's that, Saw-bones ? " ex- 
 claimed W . " You going to visit the begum ? 
 
 Why, you old reprobate, you have got the start of 
 us all." 
 
 " Yees ; and this child intends to keep it, too," 
 replied the doctor, with a knowing grin, and a suc- 
 cession of very audible grunts, which, with him, al- 
 ways denoted intense satisfaction. 
 
 " Whatever can be up ? Is she ill ? " asked 
 Mac. 
 
 " No — not vary — that is, I couldna just say that 
 she 's doun-right ill," answered the doctor ; " but 
 she sent for me last night, after dinner, and made 
 me to understand that she was uneasy about her 
 insides, hinting that she thought she had been 
 struck with the evil eye. Weel, ye must know 
 that I didna just remember what the vade mecum 
 prescribes for sich like a disease, and as the medi- 
 cine chest was made up, an' I didna think it was 
 worth while to unpack it, by way of an experiment, 
 I sent her negresship a good big bottle o' stiff gin 
 toddy, a trifle stronger than I was then imbibing, 
 and I reckon she found this potent remedy so 
 conducive to her feelings, that early this morning
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 47 
 
 she sent that ugly black henchman, of the neuter 
 gender, with a mouthful of compliments, and what 
 I esteemed verra much better, a basket of fine 
 grafted mangoes as a present to your humble ser- 
 vant; and that dark ill-looking functionary in- 
 formed me, in that queer squeaky voice, peculiar to 
 the third sex, that his mistress was so much better 
 for the clever hackeem's (doctor's) medicine, that she 
 wanted to see him again personally some time during 
 the morning ; so ye see, boys, there is some good in 
 the profession after all, for oft-times it gives us the 
 means and ways of ingratiating ourselves wi' the 
 fair sex, e'en though we are not, maybe, just so 
 young and smooth-skinned as we might ha' been. 
 Ugh ! ugh ! ugh ! " 
 
 " Well done, Bones," said I. " You have indeed 
 commenced the attack well, but the trail must be 
 closely followed if good is to come of it. Now 
 listen, and I will unfold a plan which must, if pro- 
 perly carried out, ensure success, or I resign all 
 pretensions to strategy in managing old women, 
 
 " It is evident, from your account, that your 
 patient has acquired a liking for your resusticating 
 fluid, and has confidence in your ^tn-eopathical 
 genius. Taking this for granted, 'Go, thou, oh 
 learned man, at once, and prepare a good quart 
 bottle of the same stiff stuff, taking care to mix it 
 strong enough to make her wince again, and cause 
 her oculars to condense water in the same quantity 
 as Mrs Parasina's did, when her infuriated hus-
 
 4S THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 band, Azo, ordered his hobstreperous and houda- 
 cious * hof spring,* Mr Hugo, her dewoted lovier, 
 to have his head amputated for a heart complaint, 
 vide the Poets. Leave me to write the directions 
 on the label of the bottle in Hindostani, and give 
 the spell time enough to work, which it will do 
 after she has swizzled a few glasses more or less, 
 then you drop in upon her, and if her heart will 
 not have become sufficiently softened to grant you 
 any little request or favour you may have to make 
 — oh, you sly dog, doctor ! — call me — too late for 
 dinner." 
 
 " Oh, ye bauld chiel o' the deil 1 ye Irregulars are 
 maist as bad as ranting wild Irishmen t " exclaimed 
 the doctor, when I had concluded my oration ; " but 
 I do not just know at present what better to pro- 
 pose, so boy come here, ye ne'er-do-weel, and fetch 
 me the gin." 
 
 " Weel, weel ! " he continued, as the flask was 
 produced, " that '11 do ; there 's maist two-thirds o* 
 the bottle left, and she '11 just fill up the rest wi' 
 strong tea, to disguise it, so that she '11 no be 
 suspected o' having only one salubrious concoction 
 in the shop, as that old skinflint, Duncan McQuae, 
 the auld Glasgow medicaster, where I performed 
 the rudiments at twa and saxpence a week, used to 
 prepare for the poor townsfolk, wha got their ain 
 bottles filled for twopence. 
 
 "Ah, gentlemen, you'll hardly believe" — here the 
 doctor made a fearfully wry face — " that this child
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 49 
 
 had when a growiug loon, to swallow a good gill of 
 the washings o' a molasses cask, seasoned wi' jalap, 
 every Monday morning of his apprenticeship, to lay 
 the worm in his stomach, and to prevent him from 
 eating too much during the week. Oh ! Duncan 
 McQuse, Duncan McQua? ! I do not wish ye any 
 waur, where ye are noo, than to be swimming in 
 your own ' regimen for all disorders, from elephan- 
 tiasis to tape-worm.' Oh, the verra recollection 
 makes me feel ill and squeamish. Now," he con- 
 tinued, screwing up his dry old countenance, as he 
 tasted the brew ; " come here, and make out a pre- 
 scription to this effect, in your best Hindostani — 
 ' One glassful to be taken every quarter of an hour, 
 or oftener if required' Ugh ! ugh ! ugh ! Let 
 me see — that'll just allow sax glasses, by rule, for 
 the hour and a half I shall be at my breakfast, and 
 that 's' no allowing for the little requirings. Ugh ! 
 ugh ! ugh ! " 
 
 I wrote the label as directed, and the draught was 
 despatched to the begum, with plenty of salaam fi-oni 
 the doctor, who grunted and purred like an old 
 torn cat, from extreme satisfaction, until he fell 
 asleep in his chair. 
 
 Almost at this moment the patel returned with 
 the two villagers, accompanied by Chineah, my head 
 shekarry or huntsman, with the rest of my gang, 
 which numbered about a dozen at that time. 
 
 Chineah was quite a celebrated character in his 
 way, and merits description. He was middle-sized
 
 50 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 of dark olive colour, rather slightly made, with 
 small quick eyes, placed very much apart, a strag- 
 gling moustache, and an apology for a beard, in 
 the shape of a few stiff hairs, sticking out like cat's 
 whiskers, from the point of his chin, which he 
 pulled and twisted about most violently whenever he 
 got excited. 
 
 He wore an old cast-off green shooting-coat, a 
 dirty brown langooty or waistcoat, untanned deer- 
 skin gaiters, and soldiers' ammunition boots, which 
 were oftener slung over his shoulders than worn 
 on his feet. His long coarse black hair was twisted 
 round his head, being partially covered with a skull- 
 cap of some strange looking material, of which the 
 kind and quality were perfectly undistinguishable 
 from grease and dirt. 
 
 Round his waist was a broad leather belt, hung 
 round with numerous pouches, containing ammu- 
 nition, a small axe made by the celebrated Aruat- 
 chellum of Salem, a huge shekar knife, and a chuck- 
 muck, or leather bag, with flint, steel, and tinder. 
 To complete his appearance, a telescope and brandy 
 flask hung from each shoulder, and in his hand 
 he carried my favourite double two-ounce rifle, a 
 masterpiece, by Westley Richards. From his cocky 
 mien and jaunty swagger, our friend evidently 
 thought no "small beer" of himself, and he was, I 
 must own, an invaluable personage in his way, being 
 a first-rate tracker, cool and steady in the time of 
 danger, a wonderful supporter of fatigue, and the most
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD, 51 
 
 persevering follower after large game, besides being 
 entirely devoted to me. His only fault veas his love 
 of rackee, (spirit made from the sap of the Palmyra 
 palm, date, or cocoa-nut tree.) 
 
 The rest of the gang, who were almost naked, 
 with the exception of the waistcloths, leather skull- 
 caps, and their sandals, carried my other guns and 
 light short bamboo spears. Each had a bill-hook 
 stuck in his waistcloth behind, which they used with 
 great dexterity in cutting their way through the 
 jungle, and two carried large American backwoods- 
 man's axes slung at their back, and another a mnshalc 
 or leather bottle containing water. Both the village 
 shekarries were in similar costume, and each carried 
 a long native matchlock on his shoulder, and a huge 
 knife in his belt. 
 
 "Well, Chineah," said I, "what news of shekar 
 have you got ? " 
 
 "Boht utcha kubber hy, sahib" (there is very 
 good news, sir.) •'All people tell that, near Botta 
 Singarum, one village two coss* off, there got one 
 burra bagh (big tiger,) who kill plenty men, sahib ; 
 Kistimah, this man here, he tell, eat one old woman 
 yesterday. Boht shytan hy, sahib (he is a great 
 devil, sir,) for though all shekarmen, and village 
 people, plenty, plenty looking, never can find, when 
 all come home, tiger go kill one man. Wo burra 
 char hy, sahib (he is a great thief, sir.) Ah, sahib, 
 this very good shekar country. All jamuars (beasts) 
 
 * A coss is about two miles.
 
 52 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 plenty got ; suppose master stop here few days, 
 plenty, plenty shooting. This dhoby man, very 
 good shekavry, know all this country, shoot plenty 
 years in this jungle ; other day kill one cheeta, now 
 bring master skin, suppose some gentleman want 
 buggy mat." 
 
 "Well ! that will do," said I ; "go all of you to 
 the tent, and Yacoob Khan (my head-servant) may 
 give each of you a glass of rackee and some to- 
 bacco ; after which you will all go to the village of 
 Botta Singarum, and there find out all you can 
 about the haunts of this tiger. Promise the vil- 
 lagers plenty of huchsheech (presents) if they assist 
 you, and I will come with Kistimah, the peon, after 
 I have had breakfast. Chineah, take care that no 
 shot is fired at deer or peafowl. Do not loiter on 
 the road, for I shall not be long after you ; and 
 keep a bright look out for the tiger's pugs (foot- 
 prints.) Well, gentlemen," continued I, to the other 
 ofiicers, " you have heard the news ; who is going 
 after the man-eater with me? I intend starting 
 immediately after breakfast for the village, near 
 which he is said to prowl ; then, what steps I may 
 take, will depend upon the information I may there 
 receive." 
 
 " Oh ! we will all go, except the doctor," exclaimed 
 
 W , " and he will take charge of our camp, as 
 
 he does not shoot, and has an engagement, which as 
 there is a lady in the case, must not on any account 
 be put off. What say you, 'Sawbones,' will you
 
 OF THE OLD AVOKLD. 53 
 
 superintend the catering for dinner, and arrange 
 matters about the nautch ? " 
 
 " Yees, yees," replied the kind-hearted old Scotch- 
 man, " gang yere ways, gang ycre ways, and tak' ye 
 care and kill the tiger, and dunna let him kill ony 
 o' ye ; for though there's not mucli more use o' sich 
 like folk than a pack of wild Irishmen, I do not 
 want to hae' ony o' ye scragged."
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE man-eater's LAIE. 
 
 The start. — The man-eater's depredations. — His habits described. 
 — His last victim. — His trail. — We are on his track. — More 
 game. — The scent becomes warm. — The lair. — The remains of 
 many victims discovered. — The plan for the morrow. — A reso- 
 lution. — W 's idea of shekar. — We arrive in camp. — The 
 
 Pill's garden, — The bath. — Dinner. — The doctor's visit to the 
 begum. — Effect of his medicine. — My future husband. — The 
 nautch arranged. 
 
 During breakfast, sundry modes of proceeding with 
 regard to this tiger were discussed, but no particular 
 plan was settled upon. 
 
 When the meal was finished, we donned our 
 shekar gear, mounted our nags, and started for 
 Botta Singarum, each followed by a horsekeeper, 
 carrying a gun, rifle, or boar spear. Kistimah led 
 the way, and as we went along, I asked him what 
 he considered the best plan to follow. 
 
 He answered in a remarkably shrewd manner 
 that he hardly knew what to advise, as this was no 
 common tiger, or it would have been easy enough 
 to arrange matters ; "but," added he, " these man-
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 55 
 
 eaters are so desperately cunning that one can 
 hardly ever be up to their moves. It is of no 
 use picketing bullocks in the places he frequents, 
 for he will not touch them. I have frequently 
 known him to carry off the man who was watching 
 the cattle, and leave the herd untouched. One is 
 never sure of his movements ; he is so cunning 
 that he very seldom shows himself, and although 
 after he has carried off some one, I have frequently 
 followed his trail for miles, yet his lair has not yet 
 been discovered, and I believe he never remains two 
 nights in the same place. They say he has killed 
 more than forty people within the last six months ; 
 and as I know myself that sixteen post-runners 
 have been missed within that time, I have no doubt 
 but that he has carried them off. The dauk * post 
 runners will not go alone now ; they carry the 
 tappal bags in bands of five or six, armed, and 
 with fire-sticks, and even then so great is the fear 
 inspired by this brute, that they often choose to go 
 by an out-of-the-way road rather than run the 
 chance of meeting him. He would be a lucky man, 
 indeed, who killed this beast, for great rewards 
 are offered for his skin. I have followed his trail 
 many a long day, and once got a sight of him as 
 he was drinking; but Avhen I tried to steal near 
 enough to be certain of my aim, he got wind of 
 
 * DauJc or tappal. — Indian post. The letters being carried 
 in leather bags, on men's shoulders, who are relieved every five 
 miles.
 
 56 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 me, and sprang into tlie thick jungle. I saw him 
 very distinctly, as the sun was fast setting, and 
 he appeared to me to be of a different colour to 
 other tigers, being of a dirty yellow, the stripes not 
 showing." 
 
 " AYell, Kistimah," said I, " the only way to make 
 sure of the colour of his skin is to bag hhn ; and 
 this is the way I propose setting about it. When 
 we arrive at the village, I shall order the tassildar 
 (head police authority) to assemble as many beaters 
 as he can, to be ready at the earliest dawn to- 
 morrow, and we will try and beat him out. To-day 
 we will follow up his trail, and visit some of the 
 places where he has been lately seen ; perhaps by 
 good luck we may come across him." 
 
 " Well, sahib, your plan is good ; you speak like 
 a book, and I have nothing better to propose ; still 
 I am not very sanguine of success, for he is a very 
 old and cunning devil ; but, Inshallah, (please God,) 
 I '11 burn his whiskers for him yet. Who is the 
 tiger of defiled fathers, that he should cast dirt on 
 our beards ? " 
 
 By this time the village appeared in view, and I 
 sent on to Kistimah to warn the head man of our 
 arrival. 
 
 He came out to meet us as we entered the village, 
 and we dismounted and seated ourselves under the 
 shade of a large tamarind tree, in front of the 
 tannah, or police station. 
 
 After the usual compliments and salaams, he pro-
 
 OF THE OLD AVOIILD. 57 
 
 ceeded to tell us of the great devastation this man- 
 eater had caused in all the villages round about, and 
 he offered to give every assistance in his power to 
 enable us to find his haunts and destroy him. 
 
 Having arranged all about the beaters to be col- 
 lected from the neighbouring villages, and ordered 
 them to be ready to take the field before dawn the 
 following morning, we went out with a party of 
 villagers to a well, about a hundred and fifty yards 
 from the village near which a woman was said to 
 have been carried off by the tiger the day before, 
 as she was drawing water in the evening about dusk. 
 
 I examined the place attentively, and although 
 the marks of the tiger's pugs were effaced near the 
 well from a flock of goats having passed by, yet, 
 near a tamarind tree, some little distance off, they 
 were plainly visible, and even the marks of dried 
 blood, and' some long hair were left on the roots. 
 
 I also noticed the place behind a bush, where 
 the herbage was pressed down, and the marks still 
 left in the dust showed that the cunning brute had 
 lain for some time on the look out, before he 
 seized his prey. 
 
 Here I found Chineah, the dhoby, and the rest 
 of the gang in deep consultation, and was just in 
 time to hear the fag-end of a long string of curses, 
 maledictions, and prophecies, in which it seemed to 
 be allowed, by all parties present, that this tiger's 
 female relations were anything but a chaste lot, and 
 that he would be sure to come to a bad end.
 
 58 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 I noticed that the trail of his retreat did not lead 
 in the same direction as that from whence he came, 
 and he seemed to have made the circuit of the 
 village two or three times before he fell in with his 
 victim, I followed the marks of his pugs through 
 some rather open custard-apple jungle, to the dry 
 sandy bed of a nullah, or watercourse, where the 
 trail was very plain ; and although there were no 
 marks of blood to be seen, yet I knew that he had 
 still carried his victim, as the pugs of his fore feet 
 were more deeply imprinted in the sand than those 
 of the hind, from the extra weight he carried in his 
 mouth, whereas I have observed that the marks of 
 the hind feet are generally the plainest. 
 
 A little further on, I perceived a large patch of 
 dry blood, round which the flies were buzzing, and 
 from the marks in the sand I knew that the brute 
 had lain down the body of his victim for a moment, 
 in order, perhaps, to get a better gripe. 
 
 Whilst showing this to W , I noticed marks 
 
 in the sand which made me believe that his victim 
 had not been quite dead at this time, for there 
 were impressions as if she had made convulsive 
 clutches with her hands. 
 
 I tracked him down this nullah for upwards of a 
 mile, until we came to a pool of water. The banks, 
 which had become steeper and higher, were covered 
 with dense thorny jungle, which waved darkly over- 
 head. Here the pugs of the tiger were much 
 obliterated by the marks of other wild animals.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 59 
 
 amongst which I noticed those of two bears, a 
 cheeta, and innumerable signs of spotted deer, pig, 
 and jungle sheep. 
 
 Near the other side of the pool I observed marks 
 as if he had again laid the body down, whilst he 
 drank, for there were impressions in the sand, round 
 which swarms of flies were buzzing, and although 
 there were no stains of blood to be seen, I knew 
 something!: must have attracted them ; besides which, 
 there were two distinct trails, which showed that 
 he had gone to the water, drank, and returned to 
 the body. 
 
 As we continued on trail down the nullah, at 
 times we disturbed herds of spotted deer and 
 " sounders " (herds) of pigs, and an old female bear 
 and two half-grown cubs were seen trotting along 
 in"* front of us ; but we let her go undisturbed, for 
 we were after nobler game. 
 
 On we went for about two miles further, when 
 we came to a place overgrown with high grass, where 
 the nullah divided into two courses for about eighty 
 yards, when it joined again, forming an island, which 
 was covered with long dry grass, reeds, and brush- 
 wood. 
 
 There the man-eater's trail was crossed by that of 
 a tigress and her two half-grown cubs. We were 
 still enabled to distinguish the pugs of the man- 
 eater from their peculiar form, and continued to 
 follow them for about half-a-mile further, when the 
 trail quitted the nullah, and led us into dense thorny
 
 GO THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 jungle, through which we made our way in Indian 
 file ; and as we went along I pointed out to Jock 
 small pieces of rag and long hair sticking on the 
 thorns of a bush, proving that the tiger had brought 
 his victim that way. 
 
 " Gentlemen," said I, " as the scent begins to 
 warm, please look to your guns, and be ready in 
 
 case we may surprise him. W , I wish you 
 
 would take the rear, and prevent the people from 
 straggling. Chineah, keep near me with my second 
 gun, and Rungasawmy, do you cut the way in front 
 with as little noise as possible. We may very pos- 
 sibly come across him sleeping somewhere in this 
 thick cover after his feed, so keep a bright look out 
 on all sides, and take care and make as little noise 
 as you can in getting through the bushes." 
 
 We were in single file, I leading, with much diffi- 
 culty, through the thick jungle, which had become 
 very dark from the dense foliage overhead. 
 
 The intense silence which reigned around was 
 broken now and again, as we moved slowly on, by 
 the crackling of a twig underfoot, or a low grunt 
 from some one of the gang, as a sharp thorn 
 entered his naked and unprotected shoulder. At 
 times was heard the distant bark of the elk, or a 
 pattering of feet, as a herd of deer or a sounder of 
 pig got scent of us, and skirled away frightened 
 through the thickets, or a peacock rose with a loud 
 cry, scared by our movements. 
 
 On we went, the trail still distinctly visible, when
 
 OP THE OLD WOKLD, fil 
 
 suddenly I fancied I heard a slight noise. I halted 
 the gang, and whispered, or rather made signs to 
 them, to lie quiet, for we were almost on our hands 
 and knees, and laid my ear to the ground to listen. 
 We distinctly heard grating sounds, like the gnaw- 
 ing of bones, accompanied by low snarls and growls. 
 I noticed Chineah's eyes sparkling with excitement, 
 as he lay listening to the ominous noises ; and the 
 convulsive grabs he made at the few bristles which 
 adorned the point of his chin told me what was 
 passing in his mind. Not a word was spoken, 
 though I saw the eyes of the gang were following 
 my movements. 
 
 I examined the nipples of my rifle to see that the 
 powder was well up, and making signs to Chineah 
 with my spare gun, and Mac, who was next me, to 
 follow, I cautioned the others to be perfectly quiet, 
 until they heard a shot, and stole gently forward 
 on my hands and knees, moving with the greatest 
 caution, and stopping every now and again to re- 
 connoitre. 
 
 We made our way with great difficulty through 
 the dense underwood for about a hundred yards, the 
 noise becoming plainer and more distinct as we ad- 
 vanced, until at last we emerged into an open glade, 
 with a large black rock on one side, surrounded with 
 jungle. 
 
 Here, looking cautiously around, I found the noise 
 proceeded from two jackals, who were munching and 
 tearing the flesh from some half-stripped human
 
 62 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 bones. These immediately got wind of us, and slunk 
 away growling into the bush. After examining the 
 place thoroughly, to make sure that the object of our 
 search was not there, I gave a low whistle, which 
 brought up the rest. 
 
 This was evidently the hecatomb of the man-eater, 
 for I counted, from skulls and remains of half-eaten 
 bodies, about twenty-three victims of both sexes, as 
 we could see, from the hair, clothes, broken bangles 
 (armlets,) and gold and silver ornaments belonging 
 to native women. 
 
 We picked up two massive silver bracelets be- 
 lono-insf to his last victim, whose fresh remains ex- 
 hibited marks of tattooing, which were recognised 
 by one of the villagers who was with us. We also 
 found two gold teekas, or neck oraaments, which 
 mark the "married" woman, and a knife, which 
 the dhoby assured us he knew as having belonged 
 to a post-runner who had been killed about a month 
 before. 
 
 The stench from the decayed animal matter was 
 almost insupportable, and we were glad to leave it 
 and breathe the fresh air once more. I gave orders 
 to the gang to collect the remains, but not to bury 
 them, until they had been seen by the village autho- 
 rities ; as I thought that some would be recognised, 
 and their friends might wish to inter them with their 
 " caste " ceremonies. 
 
 "What a fearfully sickening sight it is!" said
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 63 
 
 Mac. " I declare it has made me feel quite queer, 
 and given me an all-overishness I shall not get over 
 for a week." 
 
 " 1 wish we had brought some beer with us," said 
 
 W , with something very nearly approaching to a 
 
 sigh, " for I want a draught to wash my throat after 
 the tainted air I have been inhaling, which has half 
 suffocated me. Come, Chineah, produce your master's 
 brandy-flask, and let us have a little refreshment after 
 our exertions." 
 
 " Poor little woman," exclaimed Jock, " look, here 
 is a long lock of her hair attached to a piece of scalp, 
 that I found sticking to my boot as I came out, — 
 I shall keep it as a souvenir." 
 
 " Well," said I, " the only souvenir that I should 
 care to keep, to remind me of this day's scene, would 
 be the skldl of the man-eater ; and if my right-hand 
 has not forgotten its cunning, and my grooved bore 
 does not fail me — which, all praise to the Bishop 
 of Bond Street and Westley Eichards, it never has 
 done yet — that trophy shall yet adorn my domicile, 
 for I do not intend to leave a &tone unturned until I 
 bag the brute. My gang shall sleep at Botta Sing- 
 arum to-night, so as to be ready for work at dawn 
 to-morrow ; and I vote we ask for volunteers among 
 the detachment, and allow the steadiest men to take 
 their muskets with them, so as to defend the line of 
 beaters. It must, however, be an understood thing 
 that no one is to fire a shot at any other game until
 
 04 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 our object is attained, or all chance of finding him 
 is over ; when we will finish the day by a general 
 beat, bagging everything," 
 
 "Yes," said W , "you are perfectly right; 
 
 there must be no firing at deer or hog. That is the 
 only way of doing the thing so as not to lose a chance ; 
 but, as it is now getting late, let us go back to the 
 village, caution the police authorities again about the 
 beaters, mount our nags, and be in time for the 
 Doctor's catering — for, between ourselves, I am 
 powerfully peckish, ' By the piper that played 
 before Moses,' it is worth while going out shekar, 
 were it only for the appetite it creates, and the relish 
 it gives one for beer." 
 
 On arrival at the village, we arranged all matters 
 with regard to the number of beaters required. The 
 ameldar, or head man of the viDage, sent to all the 
 neighbouring hamlets to collect men ; the gang esta- 
 blished themselves for the night in a choultry or 
 caravanserai, after having begged some coin from us 
 to buy sheep and fowls on the plea of sacrifices being 
 necessary to certain " Sawmies " (Hindoo deities) to 
 ensure good luck on the morrow ; and mounting our 
 horses amid the " Salams," " Mashallahs," and 
 " Inshallahs " of the villagers, we rode back to camp 
 — the scene we had that day witnessed, our hopes of 
 the morrow, and sundry hazardous speculations as 
 to the doctor's success with the begum, forming the 
 chief topics of our conversation en route. 
 
 We arrived in camp just before sunset, and were
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. G5 
 
 delighted to see the old Pill carefully watering what, 
 to the uninitiated, must have appeared like a garden 
 of straw, but we knew that a goodly store of " long 
 corks" (claret) and "Bass's" nectar, "may his shadow 
 never be less," was cooling in the wind for our even- 
 ing repast. 
 
 We all adjourned to our different tents to enjoy 
 our bath, which the day's fag rendered particularly 
 refreshing. In no part of the world is the real luxury 
 of a bath so appreciated as it is in India. There you 
 bathe the first thing you get up in the morning ; 
 again, when you come back tired after a hot morning 
 parade ; again, before you sit down to dinner ; and, 
 in the hot weather, if you want to sleep well, you 
 will plunge into your bath just before you turn in 
 for the night. Are you overcome and oppressed by 
 the hot weather ? Take a bath. Do you return 
 tired to your tent after a hard day's fag under a hot 
 sun? nothing in the world serves sooner to dispel 
 fatigue and lassitude, than a few chatties (earthen 
 pots) of cold water thrown over the body. Trust an 
 old soldier, my gentle reader, there is some truth in 
 the cold water cure. 
 
 Eefreshed and enlivened by our ablutions, we all 
 
 met at dinner, "hungry as hunters," and the doctor's 
 
 catering met ^vith our universal approbation. After 
 
 the clattering of dishes and the popping of bottles 
 
 had somewhat subsided, Mac astonished the doctor's 
 
 weak nerves with an account of the tiger's lair, and 
 
 at last worked up the old Scotchman to such a state 
 
 £
 
 66 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 of excitement that he jumped up, gave his thigh a 
 tremendous slap with the palm of his hand, and ex- 
 claimed, "Dom, but this child will gang wi' ye in 
 the morn just to ha' a crack at the bluid-thirsty auld 
 cannibal ! " 
 
 " Bravo, doctor ! We shall be most happy to have 
 your company," answered I ; " but, old Sly Boots, 
 what about the visit to the begum ? How fared you 
 there ? Eh?" continued I, giving him a sharp dig in 
 the ribs with my forefinger, which made him grunt 
 again. 
 
 " Yes ; out with it, doctor ! " cried W . " Don't 
 
 mince matters, but give us a full account." 
 
 "Husht your whisht, and I'll tell ye all about it," 
 replied the doctor. "You must know that I went 
 to the bungalow about two hours after you left camp, 
 and that black gentleman of no sex, who had evidently 
 previously received his instructions, conducted mc 
 at once into the centre room, where I saw a figure, 
 closely veiled in a chedder (cloth) which concealed 
 everything but a pair of sparkling eyes, sitting tailor- 
 fashion on a carpet, wi* two or three decent-looking 
 lasses attending her. 
 
 " "When I entered, and she saw who it was, she 
 waved her hand, inviting me very graciously to seat 
 myself near her, which I did. She sent the other 
 women away, and then, with a knowing wink, pull- 
 ing the cloth away from her face, passed me the 
 hubble-bubble she was smoking when I first went 
 in. I found her to be a guid ' auld has-been,' that
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 67 
 
 is, the remains of a fine woman, with a veiy pleasing 
 and comfortable cast of countenance. As I was 
 puffing away, with my understandings twisted in 
 such a knot that I started the seams of my galligas- 
 kins, she kept smiling and nodding in such a way 
 at your humble servant, that I fairly thought that 
 I should ha' had to cut and run, for she seemed to 
 ha' made a dead set at me, so I just told her I was 
 a married man, wi' fourteen sma' bairns at hame ; 
 but even the prospect o' sae mony incumbrances did 
 not seem to discourage her — she was as sweet on me 
 as ever, and presented me with betel-nut and some 
 sweetmeats, both of which I refused. She then 
 offered me the identical flask I had sent her in the 
 morning, which I took, and just to show her that I 
 was no' afraid o' my ain drugs, I raised the bottle to 
 my lips, lifted it higher and higher, but de'il a drop 
 o' the creature was there in it. 'Twas as dry as a 
 bone. I gave the old lady a look from the corner 
 of my eye, but what was my astonishment when I 
 saw her apparently in a fit, on the broad o' her back, 
 almost burstino; wi' laughter. When she came to 
 herself and could speak, she gave me a gentle hint 
 that a full bottle was better than an empty one, and 
 that the stuff was good, and agreed with her con- 
 stitution ; so I couldna do less than promise her 
 more. 
 
 " We then got talking together quite familiar- 
 like, and she told me that her daughter was as 
 beautiful as a peri, and was about to be married
 
 68 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 to the Nawab of , at the same time asking me 
 
 if I had ever seen her intended son-in-law. De- 
 termined to pay out the daughter, whom I heard 
 joking at my expense wi' the ither lasses, behind 
 a purdah (screen) in the next room, and com- 
 menting on my personal appearance in no verra 
 flattering terms, I pretended to be intimately ac- 
 quainted wi' the gentleman in question, whom I 
 described to be rather less in stature than myself 
 and not nearly so good-looking. I also said he 
 was much to be pitied, for he had the misfortune to 
 have a curious-shaped lump (sometimes running) in 
 the middle of his face, with a great black patch o' 
 hair underneath, and I never heard tell that any 
 doctor had been bold enough to offer to remove it, 
 
 "As I said this, the giggling behind the curtain 
 ceased suddenly, and I knew the shot had gone 
 home, from a faint cry of horror, which I conclude 
 came from the affianced bride. The black factotum 
 seemed to be very grievously affected at my recital ; 
 he cocked his head on one side, winked both eyes, 
 screwed up his blubber lips, wrung his hands, and 
 then, as if he could not contain himself, burst into 
 a loud yell, threw himself his whole length on the 
 floor at the begum's feet, and in great agitation 
 and trembling began, in a voice something like the 
 higher notes of a jackal's howl, broken by frequent 
 bursts of sobs and great overflow of tears, which 
 actually drenched his face, to inform her that he, 
 the most miserable of her slaves, had once seen an
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. C9 
 
 individual labouring under a similar misfortune ; 
 that he was always fearfully vicious and cranky, 
 especially at certain times of the day when the pain 
 from the tumour drove him mad ; and he conjured 
 his mistress not to send her faithful servant to the 
 harem of such a terrible bud-surut (ugly man,) who 
 would make him eat dirt all the rest of his miserable 
 existence. 
 
 "The old lady, herself, did not seem to care 
 much about it, the potion had done its work, and 
 she continued to smUe very benignantly on her 
 humble servant, so I gave her a gentle hint that 
 time hung very heavily on our hands in the even- 
 ings, and that a nautcli, now and then, would much 
 enliven us ; upon which she desired me to invite 
 you all over to the bungalow to-morrow evening, 
 and, at the same time, clapping her hands, her 
 servants entered and she gave them orders to 
 prepare a grand ' tamasha ' (entertainment.) I 
 then took my ' rooksut ' (permission to depart,) 
 and, as soon as I got back to the tent, despatched 
 a flask of gin with * boht salam ' (many compli- 
 ments.") 
 
 " Why, you old reprobate !" said W , " what- 
 ever did you mean to insinuate about the Nawab 
 having a lump, and hair in the middle of his face ? 
 I have seen him scores of times, and never observed 
 it. 
 
 "Weel! You ha' na' guid eyesight," answered 
 the doctor, " that 's certain, for the last time I
 
 70 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 saw him he wore both a nose and a moustache, 
 and I dunna ken hoo I've exaggerated onything 
 in my description o' his personal appearance. Can 
 I help it if the young lady chooses to take it in a 
 wrong lio-ht ? Sarve her weel right too. Did. I no' 
 hear her jeering at me as I first came in the room, 
 and telline; the other lasses that the Fehringees 
 (Europeans) were a clever and wise people, for they 
 always choose the smallest and ugliest old men 
 to make doctors of, as then there was no fear of 
 the women falling in love wi' them ? Ugh ! Ugh ! 
 Ugh ! But I paid her out in her own coin." And 
 the doctor's grunts reminded me of a cat well- 
 pleased. 
 
 " Bravo ! doctor," I exclaimed, " you have done 
 remarkably well, and deserve a leather medal for 
 your gallantry in the attack ; as, besides getting us 
 the nautch, you have done your best to disgust the 
 young lady with the thoughts of her future husband, 
 which perhaps may prove to our advantage, for she 
 may now feel disposed to take a more favourable 
 view of mankind in general, as up to the present 
 time she has certainly been, like the flower, 'doomed 
 to blush unseen/ and waste her sweetness upon such 
 disgusting lumps of humanity as the begum's blubber- 
 lipp'd guardians of the fold." 
 
 "Yes," said Jock, "I think old 'Bones' has 
 played his game with a great deal of management, 
 and shown that, although he is perhaps a rum one 
 to look at, he is a good one to go. So here 's your
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 71 
 
 health ! Stick to your present mode of treatment, 
 and I '11 warrant you '11 soon gain the patronage of 
 the whole sex." 
 
 It was now late, and, as we should have to be in 
 the saddle some time before dawn, the party broke 
 up, each retiring to his tent.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 A BATTUK 
 
 Preliminary arrangements for the beat. — The doctor's great 
 
 appearance. — His famous feat. — W falls in withtigera. — 
 
 Fatal accident. — The death of a tiger. — The game warms. — 
 The battue. — Another tiger dies. — The bag of the day. — The 
 doctor again. — The ceremonies of my gang. 
 
 The next morning we all assembled in my tent an 
 hour before the slightest appearance of dawn, and 
 after having partaken of a hurried collation which 
 my invaluable servant, " Five minutes," always ma- 
 naged to have ready at the proper time, we mustered 
 about eighty sepoys and troopers with their muskets 
 and carbines, and about twice that number of vil- 
 lagers, well supplied with matchlocks, tomtoms, and 
 dubties,* cholera-horns, and other melodious instru- 
 ments of music of that description ; and mounting 
 our nags, preceded by masaltjees or torch-bearers, 
 we started for Botta Singarum. 
 
 • Dubties — native drums.
 
 TUE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 73 
 
 As we approached the tannah, or police-statiim, 
 wg found all the head men of the surroundin<^ 
 villages waiting for us, each attended by several of 
 his people, armed with matchlocks, swords, spears, 
 clubs, or any weapons they could lay hands upon, 
 As we approached the entrance, the crowd of vil- 
 lagers surrounding the building made way for us, 
 and I proceeded to explain to them the arrange- 
 ments for the battue ; which, were that a large half 
 circle of four miles in diameter was to be formed, 
 having for its base the river, which was broad and 
 deep, and along the opposite banks of which I had 
 the evenino- before given directions that a chain of 
 matchlock-men should be posted, to observe and be 
 prepared to resist the tiger should he attempt to 
 swim over. The nullah, or watercourse, and the 
 lair we visited the day before were enclosed, and I 
 distributed the armed sepoys and the village autho- 
 rities among the beaters to see that the line was 
 properly kept ; sending the other officers (with the 
 exception of the doctor, who chose to remain with 
 me) to different places, where I thought they would 
 have a good chance when the game broke. 
 
 One of my gang accompanied each ; the rest, with 
 most of my suwars, or irregular cavalry troopers, 
 remained with me, and I chose my place in the part 
 of the line that would pass over the nullah and the 
 lair we had seen the day before. 
 
 As it was almost impossible to beat that part of 
 the forest, on account of the dense underwood, I
 
 74 THE HUNTING GE0T7NDS , 
 
 had provided my troopers with two hundred rockets 
 in order to drive the game into the more open 
 junoie. 
 
 In an hour I received intelUgence that the line 
 was formed ready to advance, and, it being now 
 broad daylight, I gave the signal to move on by a 
 ferocious flourish of cholera-horns, which sound was 
 immediately taken uj) by all the tomtoms, horns, and 
 dubties ; and this discordant music was only sur- 
 passed by the unearthly howling and shouting of 
 the beaters, who seemed to outvie with each other 
 as to who could utter the most fiendish yells. 
 
 The doctor, who kept near me, was armed With a 
 heavy single four-ounce rifle which he had taken 
 from one of the gang ; and as he marched along he 
 shouted at the top of his voice, in a most ferocious 
 and threatening manner, something that appeared 
 to me to be some very ancient Gallic war-cry, until 
 his breath failed him. His route was perfectly well 
 marked by strips of his old blue regimental frock- 
 coat, which were left hanging on the thorns of the 
 bushes as he passed. 
 
 As we advanced, sudden crashes every now and 
 again in the jungle let us know that the game was 
 a-foot. Now a herd of deer, or a sounder of hog 
 were visible for a moment, as they bounded through 
 the thicket in front of us. Sometimes a flock of 
 peafowl passed over our heads, or a swarm of mon- 
 keys went jabbering away in the trees above us, 
 shrieking and making faces at us as we passed, and,
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 75 
 
 perhaps, thinking the Millennium was at hand, from 
 the terrific noise made by the beaters. 
 
 Suddenly, cries were heard along the line of 
 " Eeech, Eeech ! " " Yellago bunte ! " (a bear, a 
 bear !) And almost immediately a large female 
 bear and her two cubs came rolling along the line 
 of beaters towards us. 
 
 The doctor gave a fiendish yell, and, unable to 
 restrain his impetuosity, let drive and hit one of 
 the cubs which passed within six paces of him — the 
 recoil of the piece, for which he was not prepared, 
 knocking him down on the broad of his back. The 
 enraged mother charged right at him, overturning 
 a beater in her course, and in a moment more she 
 would have given him a severe mauling, if I had 
 not tumbled her over, dead, with a ball behind the 
 shoulder, as she was in full career towards her fallen 
 enemy. Bones picked himself up, and, though con- 
 siderably shaken by his fall, rushed frantically to 
 secure his prize, which was struggling in the agonies 
 of death. The other cub was caught alive by one 
 of the beaters. 
 
 I reloaded my rifle, and then took the doctor to 
 task for firing on the lesser game ; but it was of no 
 use talking to him, he evidently considered he had 
 performed a great feat, and, although tears ran 
 down his good-natured old face as he wrung my 
 hand and thanked me over and over again for my 
 lucky shot, still he felt he was quite a hero, and 
 shouted at the top of his voice for the rest to hear
 
 76 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 him, " I Ve killed a bar ! I Ve killed a bar ! Jock, 
 mon, do ye hear ? I 've killed a bar ! " After much 
 difficulty, I persuaded him to relinquish his much- 
 esteemed trophy to the charge of a beater, and 
 Chineah having reloaded his gun, the line moved 
 on. 
 
 The old man went along, delighted as a child ; and 
 amid a succession of grunts, which with him denoted 
 satisfaction, I heard him muttering something about 
 preserving the skeleton, tanning the skin to make a 
 muff, and boiling down the fat to be sent to an old 
 sister, &c., although the wild animal he had killed 
 was but little larger than a sucking-pig. He strode 
 along perfectly happy, as if he had done his work. 
 
 Very shortly afterwards we heard several suc- 
 cessive shots on the right, where I knew W 
 
 was posted, and almost immediately a beater came 
 running up with the news that three tigers were 
 
 afoot, and that W had wounded one severely, 
 
 but that it had taken refuge in the high grass we 
 had passed through yesterday. 
 
 Ordering the line to halt, and taking three 
 troopers with me, loaded with rockets, to drive them 
 
 out, should it be necessary, I went to join W , 
 
 who had just reloaded his guns as I came up. 
 
 He told me that he had seen three tigers, one of 
 which he had wounded, after having fired five shots 
 as they were bounding through the long grass and 
 brushwood. 
 
 I examined the pugs and found them to be the
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 77 
 
 same as those that had crossed the trail of the man- 
 eater the day before, and which I had supposed to 
 have belonged to a tigress and her two cubs. Several 
 of the beaters saw the wounded tiger linger after the 
 others, and had marked it take refuge in the small 
 island caused by the dividing of the nullah. 
 
 It was a kind of bank, raised about three feet 
 above the bed of the watercourse, and, perhaps, 
 eighty yards long, by thirty wide, being covered 
 with grass and reeds about five feet high, and so 
 overgrown with low bushes, and tangled underwood, 
 that it would have been impossible for the beaters 
 to have made their way through it. 
 
 I posted the doctor, W , and some of the 
 
 gang, with fire-arms, so as to command a view on 
 all sides, cautioning each how to fire so as not to 
 hit any of the rest, and when all was ready Chineah 
 struck a light with his flint and steel, and standins 
 to windward, fired the high grass, which was as dry 
 as tinder from the long drought, and blazed up., 
 roaring and crackling, in an instant. 
 
 I then took post by a hole in the bank, where the 
 grass bore traces of having been recently disturbed 
 and trodden down, it being, I thought, a likely place 
 for the tiger to break. 
 
 Everything promised well; we were all ready with 
 our arms, and waited with impatience for the ap- 
 pearance of the tigers. 
 
 The devouring element had burnt half through 
 the patch ; still we could perceive no signs of their
 
 78 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 presence, or, indeed, any movement in the grass. 
 The fire roared and crackled like the file-firing of 
 musketry, dark and dense volumes of smoke rose in 
 a huge column against the cloudless sky, and I 
 besan to be afraid that the beaters had been mis- 
 taken in supposing the brute to have taken refuge 
 in the cover, when suddenly the air resounded with 
 a fearful roar, and immediately a magnificent tigress 
 and a half-grown cub sprang into the sandy bed of 
 the nullah, from a place close to where the fire had 
 reached. I heard a simultaneous discharge of half- 
 a-dozen shots, and through the smoke I just dis- 
 cerned the brute make a second spring, which was 
 immediately followed by a piercing yell. I knew 
 that some calamity had taken place, and sprang for- 
 ward just in time to see the infuriated brute tear 
 away the flesh from the thigh to the knee of 
 W 's poor horsekeeper, who was lying motion- 
 less. The tigress, who appeared wounded, was 
 stretched half-leaning over her victim ; she turned 
 her head as I approached, and couched, as if to 
 make a spring ; I raised my rifle slowly, fearing 
 to injure the poor fellow, and then let drive. The 
 ball went crashing into her brain, and she fell dead 
 on her side, the blood streaming from her mouth 
 aud nostrils. 
 
 The poor horsekeeper did not appear quite dead, 
 though I saw at once that there was no hope for 
 him ; for the whole back part of his head was 
 carried away by the first blow from the paw, which,
 
 r 
 
 OF THE OLD WOELD. 79 
 
 at the same time, bad torn down the flesh from the 
 back of the neck between the shoulders as if it had 
 been done with an iron rake. The hands were 
 beating the ground with a nervous, palpitating 
 motion, and two or three tremulous shudders passed 
 over the whole body ; but soon all was over, and I 
 gave orders to a couple of coolies to carry the 
 corpse to the village for burial. 
 
 One of the shekarries had killed the cub with his 
 matchlock, and the remains of the other was found 
 
 partially burnt by the fire, W having wounded 
 
 it so severely in the hind-quarters, as to prevent it 
 being able to move away on the approach of the 
 line of fire ; and the tigress appeared to have re- 
 mained with her ojBTspring until the fire had actu- 
 ally reached her, for I afterwards remarked that the 
 skin was much singed and burnt in places. 
 
 W was much affected at the loss of his 
 
 horsekeeper, for he had been in his service for some 
 years, and had always proved himself a faithful 
 servant. However, as nothing could be done, we 
 retook our station in the line, and the battue was 
 continued. 
 
 On approaching the lair discovered the day 
 before, we discharged several rockets into it, and 
 a fine bull-neilghau and two cows charged boldly 
 asainst the line of beaters. Mac broke the shoulder 
 of the bull with a well-directed shot, which stopped 
 him in his mad career, and, stepping up, despatched 
 him with the second barrel as he lay upon the ground
 
 80 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 before he could pick himself up. He was a very fine 
 specimen, with a long, flowing mane. The two cows 
 broke through the line of beaters and escaped, though 
 one of them appeared severely wounded by a volley 
 from 'the beaters. A young cheetah was killed by 
 the dhoby, as he attempted to sneak away through 
 the bushes. 
 
 We had now driven the game into a large patch 
 of jungle running along the river, on one side of 
 which was a piece of tolerably open ground, and here 
 we posted ourselves behind trees or rocks, in the 
 most favourable places when the game broke. I also 
 formed a second chain of men armed with muskets 
 and matchlocks, as I knew that an immense quantity 
 of game had been driven into that patch of jungle, 
 and that some of it might escape our first line of 
 guns. 
 
 When we were all ready I gave the signal, and 
 the beaters began to drive the game towards us. 
 Sounders of pig and herds of elk and spotted deer 
 burst several times to the edge of the jungle, but 
 always broke back again, as if they dreaded danger 
 in the open ground and feared to cross it. 
 
 At last a sturdy bear showed the way into the 
 plain, and was rolled over by Mac with a single ball. 
 Soon afterwards a herd of sambur (elk) and a sounder 
 of hog broke ; and a fine buck, two does, and a sow 
 bit the dust from the united volley poured in from 
 all sides. 
 
 Then two cheetahs came bounding into the plain
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 81 
 
 followed by another bear ; and one of the former 
 fell by a ball from Kistimah's matchlock, and the 
 other was badly wounded by one of my troopers, 
 and afterwards despatched by the matchlock-men 
 on the second line. The bear was killed by Jock, 
 having made several ferocious charges after he had 
 been wounded, in one of which a cooly was slightly 
 mauled by his claws. Then another cheetah broke, 
 and charged through our line scathless, though several 
 shots were fired at him. 
 
 The beaters were now heard approaching very 
 near, and I thought everything in the shape of large 
 game must have been driven out of the inclosed 
 patch of jungle, when suddenly I heard a cry of 
 " Bagh ! Bagh ! " (a tiger ! a tiger !) from one of my 
 troopers, and almost immediately I saw a magnificent 
 full-grown tiger stealing quietly across a little open 
 glade or break in the jungle. 
 
 He was almost broadside on to me, but I was 
 afraid of firing as I saw a group of my people were 
 beyond him in the line of fire. 1 let him go on a 
 little, threw up my rifle, and took a steady aim just 
 behind his shoulder, pulling the trigger just as he 
 moved his fore arm whilst walking. 
 
 When the smoke cleared away a little, I had the 
 pleasure of seeing him stretched lifeless on his side ; 
 my ball having passed through his heart, death was 
 instantaneous. He was a fine, full-grown male tiger 
 whose beautifully marked skin measured eleven feet 
 four inches from the tip of the nose to the end of the
 
 82 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 tail. I got anotlier shot at a buck spotted deer, 
 which I wounded in the hind quarters, paralysing 
 them, and W finished him for me. 
 
 The beaters now made their appearance ; they 
 had killed four deer, three pigs, and a bear, and 
 reported that two other tigers, some neilghau, and 
 several herds of deer and hog had burst through 
 their line. 
 
 One of their number was severely wounded in 
 the thigh by a huge boar, which charged and knocked 
 him down after he had been wounded. The flesh 
 of the thigh was cut as clean as if it had been done 
 with a knife, so we bandaged it up as well as we 
 could, the doctor devoting a certain part of his 
 nether clothing for the business, which performance 
 caused us no little amusement, as we could not for 
 some time make out what the old gentleman was 
 after. 
 
 Constructing a litter with the branches of trees 
 was the work of a few minutes, and we sent him to 
 the village carried by coolies. Although he must 
 have sufiered a good deal of pain, he kept up his 
 spirits in a remarkable manner, and seemed quite 
 satisfied when he saw his antagonist brought in dead. 
 We halted by the side of the river, where we bathed 
 whilst the beaters were collecting the game, of which 
 the following is the list : — Two tigers and two cubs, 
 three cheetahs and one cub, three bears and two 
 cubs (one taken alive,) five elk, four spotted deer, 
 four pig (four small squeakers, taken alive,) one
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 83 
 
 porcupine, and one bull-neilghau — total, thirty-two 
 head of game. 
 
 I then despatched the gang to cut some stout 
 poles, which, being thrust through the back sinews 
 of the game, the coolies were enabled to carry it 
 away slung on their shoulders, after having disem- 
 bowelled the neilghau and deer. The total weight 
 of our bag may be fancied, as over two hundred 
 stout coolies were employed to carry it, and even 
 then they went but slowly, had to rest often, and 
 were frequently relieved by their comrades. 
 
 My gang went in front with their bill-hooks and 
 axes, cutting down the branches so as to enable the 
 loaded coolies to pass, and as the jungle was thick in 
 some places our course was necessarily slow. 
 
 As we approached the village of Botta Singarum 
 all the cholera horns, tomtoms, and dubties, form- 
 ing up in procession, poured forth their notes of 
 triumph ; and, joined by the voices of the united 
 company of beaters, bearers, coolies, servants, 
 sepoys, and villagers, the row was something 
 fearful, and better to be imagined than heard. 
 When we came near our camp the procession 
 was re-formed ; my gang and some of the sepoys 
 amused themselves by dancing in front of the dead 
 tigers, before which our guns were carried decked 
 out with flowers, and singing an extemporary song, 
 the burden of which was something to this effect : 
 — " That great and gallant deeds had been per- 
 formed that day ; that four tigers of burnt fathers
 
 84 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 having eaten dirt, and the brave and generous 
 gentlemen being satisfied with their day's sport, 
 plenty of buksheesh and inam (rewards and pre- 
 sents) would, as a matter of course, fall to the lot 
 of their well-wishing followers, whose mouths were 
 watering and stomachs panting with the thoughts 
 of how they would be filled by the sheep which 
 the well-known charitable and generously-minded 
 gentlemen would certainly distribute." The chorus, 
 being taken up by the whole party, was something 
 deafening. 
 
 The game was laid down on the open space of 
 ground in front of the bungalow, and the ceremony 
 of breaking up was commenced by the oldest shek- 
 arry present burning the whiskers of the dead tiger, 
 whilst he sang a monotonous song, in which he 
 abused the whole race, and finished by spitting on 
 his face and right paw. 
 
 The begum, who, it appears, was watching the 
 performance with great interest from the bungalow, 
 sent one of her followers to me with plenty of 
 salaam, and a request that I would send her a 
 tiger's heart and liver, with some of the blood, 
 for medicine : which I did, to her great satisfac- 
 tion. 
 
 The game being now all broken up and cut into 
 pieces, a fine haunch of venison was sent to our 
 tents, and a young doe, which, when wounded, had 
 been properly " holloUed " by a Mussulman, (that is 
 to say, had its throat cut whilst the operator mut-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 85 
 
 tered a certain text of the Koran, asking a blessing 
 on the meat,) sent for the acceptance of the begum ; 
 the rest was divided among the whole number of 
 troopers, sepoys, beaters, and camp-followers. 
 
 We also made a subscription amongst us, which 
 was divided as buksheesh, and every one went to his 
 home satisfied and happy.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE GANG. 
 
 The begum's invitation accepted. — My shekar gang. — Qoo- 
 gooloo's history and the discovery of the Yanadi caste. — 
 Googooloo's gifts. — Insinuations. 
 
 As I was standing superintending the preparation 
 of the skins, which my gang were pegging down 
 tightly on the ground and rubbing with cocoa-nut 
 oil and turmeric to preserve them, the black aide- 
 de-camp of the begum came up, and, with many 
 compliments on the part of his mistress, informed 
 me that she would only be too happy if we would 
 do her the honour of attending a nautch that even- 
 ing. 
 
 I accepted the invitation on the part of us all, 
 bidding him tell the Khanum sahiba "that her kind- 
 ness had made a deep and lasting impression on our 
 hearts, and that, ere the evening gun boomed through 
 the camp, our shadows would cross her hospitable 
 threshold," and then joined the other officers, who 
 were sitting smoking in front of my tent and dis- 
 cussing the sports of the day.
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS. ETC. 87 
 
 " Do you think, Harry," asked W , as I came 
 
 up, " that the tiger you killed to-day was the man- 
 eater who has committed all these depredations 
 lately?" 
 
 " No," I replied, " Eastimah assures me that it is 
 not ; and I have no reason to doubt his assertion, as 
 tigers are common enough in this part of the country. 
 I shall, however, again try for him, for I hear we 
 shall be detained here three or four days longer, as 
 the begum expects some one coming from Hydrabad. 
 You are aware that I have sent the best of my gang 
 to follow up his trail, so we have not heard the last 
 of him ; for if Googooloo and Naga are at fault and 
 cannot find out his whereabouts, I do not believe 
 that there is a man between this and Cape Comorin 
 who can." 
 
 " I readily believe you," answered W . 
 
 " There is not such another shekar-gang in the 
 country, and Googooloo is certain as a bloodhound 
 if he once gets on trail ; I have seen him track a 
 bear over rocky ground when I could not observe 
 the mark of a single pug — it must be innate 
 instinct." 
 
 " Yes," said Jock, " he is a wonderful fellow. 
 But what astonishes me most is the extraordinary 
 manner in which he watches his master's eye, as if 
 he could there read what was required of him ; and 
 when he speaks I can only understand a word or two 
 now and then, although I have a tolerable knowledge 
 of the different lingos."
 
 88 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 " You must give us a history of the gang after 
 
 dinner, Harry," said W , "for we have not 
 
 time now, as the first bugle has sounded some 
 time." 
 
 " Yees," put in the doctor, who just joined us, 
 " and ye had all better be quick, too, as my stomach 
 has been crying cupboard this long time, an' this 
 child will no be answerable for his actions 'gin ye 
 come not soon after the viands are placed on the 
 table. Ugh ! ugh ! ugh ! " 
 
 So we all rose and returned to our tents, and 
 after a refreshing bath again met at the table. 
 We were in good appetite for our dinner after the 
 day's fag, and " Five Minutes," whose ordinary 
 colour was a bright black, assumed quite a greenish 
 tinge, as he blushed at the praise his cuisine called 
 forth. 
 
 The old doctor was in great spirits, and became 
 actually uproarious when Mac, alluding to his feat 
 with the bear, proposed his health as a sportsman 
 who that day had made his debut, and he actually 
 crowed and purred again when I advised him now to 
 adopt a bear for his crest, with the motto, " Ursus 
 Vinci." 
 
 " Now, Harry," said W , when dinner was 
 
 over and cheroots and brandy panee (water) cir- 
 culated, "you must give us the history of the 
 gang." 
 
 " Yes, yes ! " vociferated the rest, " let us have 
 it.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 89 
 
 "Very well, gentlemen," said I, drawing in a long 
 pull at my hookah ; " I shall begin with Chineah, 
 my head shekarry. He is the son of ray old water- 
 man, and has been in my service since he was quite 
 a boy, when he used to carry my powder and shot, 
 and act as a beater when I went after snipe. I found 
 him very clever in marking down birds, and he 
 seemed to take such an intense delight in going out 
 with me that I bred him up to the work, and taught 
 him to clean and look after my guns, which you 
 know he does now to perfection. This is seven years 
 ago, and now I should hardly know what to do with- 
 out him. 
 
 " He is devoted to my interests, very cool and 
 steady in time of danger, a first-rate hand in picking 
 up news of game, and never so happy as when out 
 in the deep jungle. His only fault is, that he is at 
 times too fond of rackee (spirits,) and has too large 
 an establishment of the fair sex, who are always 
 squabbling and fighting for him in the servants' out- 
 houses." 
 
 " Oh, yes," said W , " I know him of old ; 
 
 but tell me about Googooloo, and let us hear where 
 you picked him up." 
 
 " Googooloo's history is a strange one," I answered, 
 " and I came across him in an extraordinary way. 
 
 You may all perhaps remember poor old M of 
 
 the — th, the kindest-hearted fellow, the best shot, 
 and the coolest sportsman who ever pulled trigger, 
 and who came to such an unfortunate end. We
 
 90 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 were great chums, and were always out together in 
 the jungle ; and to his intuition I must attribute my 
 knowledge of forest life, for, although always fond 
 of sport, I must confess I was but a griffin until he 
 took me in hand. Well, we were out together in 
 the Chettagunta jungles, about five years ago, in the 
 very hottest weather, and had fagged for three days 
 with very little success. There was no possibility of 
 ' stalking,' for, in consequence of the great drought, 
 the leaves and twigs on the ground had become so 
 very dry and brittle that every step we took they 
 cracked underfoot so loudly that the game always 
 took the alarm before we could get witliin shot. 
 On account of the great heat, we had been expecting 
 
 the monsoon to break every day, and M had 
 
 observed that it was that day the 6th of June, and 
 that for several years past the hospital register showed 
 the monsoon had broken between the 6th and the 
 10th. As there was not a cloud to be seen on the 
 deep cerulean sky, I stated my opinion that we 
 should have no changg of weather that day, and 
 away we went far into the deep jungle, where we 
 intended to sit up at night by a pool of water, near 
 which a tiger was said to lurk, and where bison 
 often drank. We had come into a beautiful open 
 glade in the jungle, in the centre of which, on a 
 rising ground, stood a magnificent ' banian,' whilst 
 clumps of huge forest trees were scattered about in 
 groups here and there, giving the place much the 
 appearance of a gentleman's park in England. In
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 91 
 
 a ' jheel ' or swamp, which was nearly dry, orchideous 
 plants of every form and hue formed such a parterre 
 that Chiswick itself could hardly equal ; and never 
 did I behold such luxurious vegetation. Yet this 
 was in the centre of dark and almost impenetrable 
 jungle, and at least twenty miles from the nearest 
 habitation we knew of. Whilst we were remarking 
 on the extreme beauty of the scene, suddenly I 
 observed that the sky had become overcast, and 
 thunder was heard rumbling in the distant hills. 
 Presently large drops fell, and we had every indi- 
 cation of a heavy fall of rain. I gave orders to 
 my people to pitch a small hill-tent we had with 
 us as soon as possible, so that at any fate we might 
 keep the guns and ammunition dry, and in the 
 meantime we took shelter under the banian tree, 
 where the people were employed in cutting tent- 
 pegs and gathering firewood. M was reclining 
 
 smoking on a carpet, close to the main trunk of 
 the tree, when suddenly we thought we heard a 
 rustling above our heads, about ten feet from the 
 ground, just where the branches and arms began 
 to shoot, and almost immediately we heard an extra- 
 ordinary kind of sneeze coming from the same quarter. 
 We started up and seized our guns, but could see 
 nothing, for the whole fork of the tree was covered 
 with masses of various kinds of parasitical plants 
 
 ' Look out, Harry !' cried M , 'there is some beast 
 
 in that tree ; most likely a leopard lying in wait for 
 deer.' Having warned our people to move out of the
 
 92 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 way we walked carefully round, trying to discover 
 where the brute lay hid; but all was now still, and we 
 could see nothing from below. I got up one of the 
 many branches thrown out by the parent stem, and 
 looked carefully among the mass of vegetation which 
 rested on the fork of the tree, still I could perceive 
 nothing. I then got down and climbed upon the 
 shoulders of a stout cooly, with a couple of men 
 holding me by the calves of my legs, so as to keep 
 me steady, and rifle in hand I made them walk up 
 
 close to the foot of the tree, M standing near 
 
 ready to cover me with his fire should any beast 
 make a spring. Still I could see nothing. Bidding 
 one of the coolies hand me up some stones, I 
 threw them in the thickest parts of the masses of 
 creepers, when I distinctly heard a low grunting. 
 I desired the coolies to go to that part from whence 
 the noise appeared to proceed, and, after a careful 
 investigation, I thought I saw a pair of bright eyes 
 twinkle, and something black moving about, which 
 at first sight looked lilj;e the hair of a bear. I put up 
 my gun and covered the object, but did not like to 
 fire, as I was afraid of only slightly wounding the 
 
 beast. M , who saw the motion I made with 
 
 my gun, asked me what I saw. I told him I 
 thought a bear was concealed in the tree, as I could 
 distinctly see some long black hair. ' A bear,' said 
 he, ' perhaps it is ; these gentry often climb trees on 
 the look-out for honey, yet I think it is much more 
 likely to be a black monkey. Fire at it, however,
 
 OP THE OLD WORLD. 93 
 
 whatever it is, I am ready to look out for squalls, 
 and perhaps it may be a black panther.' With any ' 
 
 other man than M I should have hesitated to 
 
 lire, considering the awkward position I was in, 
 perched on the shoulders of a man who I knew 
 would bolt at the first sign of danger, and expose 
 me not only to a nasty fall, but also to the mercy 
 
 of a wounded brute. But with M I felt quite 
 
 safe, knowing his extreme coolness in time of danger, 
 and the fatal accuracy of his aim. Again I raised 
 the rifle to my shoulder and was about to pull trigger, 
 when I bethought me that if it was only a bear he 
 could not spring on me, and that I could fire with 
 more fatal effect from the tree itself. I accordingly 
 got on to the fork of the tree, and as soon as 
 I got a steady footing I raised my rifle to fire. 
 Again I put it down, thinking that I might only 
 slightly wound the brute by firing in this way, so I 
 gave the black mass of hair a poke with the end of 
 the barrel of my gun in order to stir it up. Imagine 
 my astonishment when I saw the upper part of a 
 human face and a pair of eyes bob up and then go 
 down again ! To hang my rifle on a broken branch 
 and whip out my shekar knife was the work of a 
 moment, and thus armed I clutched the supposed 
 
 animal by the hair, and shouted to M and the 
 
 rest to come up ; when the thing I was holding began 
 to moan and struggle, and shortly a curious kind of 
 paws, with huge claws, emerged from below and 
 fastened on my hand, and it was only by frequent
 
 94 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 blows with the handle of my knife that I could pre- 
 vent them from tearing the flesh. At that moment 
 I was not sure whether I had not got hold of some 
 kind of chimpanzee or ourang-outang, and I shouted 
 
 out lustily for help. M , the shekarries, and 
 
 coolies soon got up into the tree, and with their 
 
 assistance I di-agged up from a hoUow in the trunk 
 
 two most extraordinary creatures in human shape. 
 
 One was old and wrinkled, the other quite a child, 
 
 and both belonged to the weaker sex, but whether 
 
 of the genus ' man ' or ' monkey ' I was not at all 
 
 sure. They were of a dark olive colour, and the 
 
 tallest was nothing like four feet high. She just 
 
 was a beauty, without a stitch of clothing except a 
 
 piece of creeper tied round her hair to keep it out 
 
 of her eyes, which were small and very piercing 
 
 when she opened them, but she kept them shut, just 
 
 taking a peep now and then like a frightened ape. 
 
 She grunted very hard, and I saw a couple of tears 
 
 rolling down her weather-beaten and wrinkled cheeks 
 
 as the gang tied her by the leg to the root of the 
 
 tree to prevent her running away. The child hung 
 
 close to the mother, keeping its face hid in her lap, 
 
 and I had a dog-chain passed round its ancle, and 
 
 fastened with a padlock to a root also. We looked 
 
 at them for a long time before we were quite sure 
 
 whether they were human. I fancied at first that 
 
 they were some kind of hybrid, for I never beheld 
 
 such strange objects. The nose was nearly flat, the 
 
 mouth most capacious, and full of large yellow teeth.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 95 
 
 The arms were long, attenuated, and wizened ; and 
 may Jove defend me from such nails as were at- 
 tatched to the extremities of the digits, which re- 
 sembled more the claws of a huge vulture, both in 
 
 colour and form, than anything else. M said 
 
 that the existence of these wild people of the forest 
 had been often questioned, but that he had always 
 believed that there were such tribes, having come 
 across their traces in the dense forests to the south 
 of the Neilgherri Mountains. 
 
 " A heavy shower of rain fell in the afternoon, 
 but towards evening the weather cleared up again, 
 and we pitched our tent, built a hut of branches for 
 the people, and lit a huge fire, round which all were 
 assembled, preparing the evening repast. One of 
 the shekarries brought a piece of hard wood with a 
 sharp point, and three or four wild jungle yams, 
 which he said these wild people must have dug up 
 just before we surprised them, as they were quite 
 fresh. I gave the yams to the child, who, after a 
 little hesitation began to eat, in which operation the 
 mother assisted. I then sent for some raw potatoes, 
 which both ate with great relish, though they still 
 evinced great fear of us, and watched with suspicion 
 every movement we made, with their little twink- 
 ling eyes. When our dinner was served we threw 
 them bits of meat and some boiled rice, which see- 
 ing us eat, they followed our example. When we 
 took our coffee after dinner I gave them some 
 sugar, at which they evinced their satisfaction by
 
 96 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 clapping their hands on their thighs as they sat on 
 their heels, smacking their lips and uttering some 
 curious grunting sentences to each other, which 
 
 neither M , myself, nor any of our people could 
 
 understand. Towards evening they appeared to 
 have gained more confidence, and I made one of 
 the servants unfasten the old woman. He had 
 hardly done so, when, finding herself at liberty, she 
 gave herself a shake like a dog on coming out of 
 the water, and with a grunt and a yell sprang into 
 the jungle before any of our people could stop her. 
 Finding, however, that the child which was stiU fas- 
 tened, did not follow her, she returned, and again 
 crouched down by its side. I made the people take 
 no further notice of them, and gave her more sugar, 
 which she took and ate without hesitation. She 
 now seemed to have made up her mind that we did 
 not intend to do her any harm, for she began to 
 examine us more closely, and even to finger our 
 clothes, which she must have imagined to be of 
 Nature's own providing, for she slunk back alarmed 
 
 when she saw M pull off his cap, as if she 
 
 thought his head would have followed. At dusk we 
 were all sitting round an immense log-fire. The 
 usual glass of rackee and allowance of tobacco had 
 been distributed to each of the gang, and we were 
 discussing the prospect of the morrow's sport, for 
 we were not inclined to sit up for game that night, 
 
 when suddenly M sprung up and shouted in 
 
 Hindostani, ' Look out, men ! those jungle wallahs
 
 01' THE Ol.D WORLD, 97 
 
 are about.' I seized my rifle, and listened atten- 
 tively, but could hear nothing, M said, ' I am 
 
 sure they are near at hand, for I distinctly heard the 
 chiri^ing of a squirrel, which sound, you know, is 
 never heard after nightfall, and I noticed the old 
 woman's eye glisten as she caught up the sound.' 
 He was right, for almost immediately four or five 
 arrows fell about our fire, though without hurting 
 any one. I took one to the old woman, and, giving 
 her a lump of sugar and some raw potatoes, told 
 Chineah to lead her towards that part of the jungle 
 from whence the arrows appeared to come, I follow- 
 ing at some little distance with my gun and one or 
 two of my people, to protect him should it be neces- 
 sary. When we got out of sight of the fire she 
 made a queer noise, like the cooing of the imperial 
 pigeon, which sound was almost immediately taken 
 up in two places from behind some clumps of 
 bushes. Again she uttered a curious note, and 
 shortly afterwards I saw other figures join her in 
 the gloom. At first I felt rather apprehensive for 
 Chineah's safety, but, as they did not seem inclined 
 to offer him any violence, I did not join their party, 
 fearing to give them alarm. After a consultation, 
 which seemed to last nearly a quarter of an hour, 
 between the old woman and her people, they fol- 
 lowed her towards our fire. When I came up I 
 foimd the group consisted of three men, two women, 
 and a child, all in the same state of nature as those 
 we had discovered in the tree. The men were but 
 
 G
 
 98 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 little over four feet, and the women considerably 
 shorter, and they all wore their hair tied with a 
 piece of creeper at the back of their head, and 
 spreading out behind like a peacock's tail. They 
 had short bamboo bows, the strings of which were 
 formed of the sinews of some animal, and the arrows 
 were reeds hardened by fire, and tipped with the 
 quills of pea-fowls. They were in great fear when 
 we first approached, but seemed to get over it by 
 degrees, and ate sugar, raw potatoes, and rice with 
 great relish. They held a long communication with 
 the old woman, in a strange guttural language which 
 none of us could understand ; and she must have 
 allayed their fears, for they all laid down by the 
 fire and slept, or rather pretended to sleep, for every 
 now and then I saw one or the other open his eyes 
 and look suspiciously round. Some of my gang 
 kept watch during the night, and I still kept the 
 first child chained by the leg. In the morning when 
 I got up, I found them squatting on their hams in 
 deep consultation. I showed them the skin of a 
 
 bear which M had killed a few days before, 
 
 and they evidently knew what the animal was at 
 once, for they imitated the noise of his grunting 
 exactly. I pointed out the bullet-holes in the skin, 
 and showed them my gun, which, much to their con- 
 sternation, I fired against a tree ; and, when their 
 fright had a little subsided, I showed them the hole 
 in the trunk which the bullet had made, and one of 
 luy people cut it out with an axe. This instrument
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 99 
 
 seemed to surprise them more than anything else. 
 They could not understand it at all at first ; but, 
 after they had seen it used a few times, nothing 
 would please them so much as to set them to work 
 chopping up firewood. They amused themselves 
 thus for hours together watching the chips fly, laugh- 
 ing and grunting to each other, and conversing in 
 their curious guttural language. 
 
 " I shot in those jungles nearly a month, and then 
 it was that I found what invaluable shekarries the 
 Yanadi tribe make ; for as trackers none equal 
 them. Day by day they acquired more confidence 
 in us, and in a short time they began to fall into 
 our ways, and joined my gang. Googooloo attached 
 himself to me like a dog, and has been with me ever 
 since ; the others are still in their old haunts. We 
 speak a jargon of our own that no one understands 
 but ourselves ; it is a medley of Hindostani, Mala- 
 bar, Tellegoo, and his own peculiar grunts. He 
 can, however, now make himself tolerably imder- 
 stood by my people, though we are sometimes at a 
 loss to know what he means. Chineah and he are 
 great friends, and each in their way are unequalled 
 as shekarries. Googooloo used to look upon me as 
 a superior being for some time, but now I think his 
 adoration has been transferred to my huge bone- 
 smasher, (a six-ounce rifle,) to which he has fre- 
 quently been seen to salaam and pray, laying the 
 choicest flowers before it, much to my gardener's 
 indignation. I have since heard that these abori-
 
 100 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 gines of the forest have been found in all the deepest 
 jungles throughout India, and are called Yanadi, 
 Crumbers, Mulchers, Yaks, Carders, Morats, and 
 Coons. They live upon roots, fruit, and any small 
 animal they can catch in the jungle having no habit- 
 ations of any kind, but generally living in trees or 
 caves. From constant practice, their senses of see- 
 ing, hearing, and smelling are developed in an ex- 
 traordinary way. Googooloo has the eye of a hawk, 
 the ear of a hare, and the nose of a hound. Often, 
 whilst going along in the jungle, have I seen him sud- 
 denly halt, stand a moment with his nostrils dilated, 
 as if he was snuffing the air, and then, drawing his 
 axe, rush into the jungle, from which he would pre- 
 sently return with a honeycomb, which he had dis- 
 covered in some hoUow tree by the scent alone. He 
 is wonderful in this way, and you may fancy what 
 a useful follower he is in the deep jungle." 
 
 " I can, indeed," said W , " but your fellows 
 
 are all the same ; they seem to consider you and 
 everything belonging to you as part and parcel of 
 themselves, and when anything is required they go 
 to work with a will. You never seem to have any 
 trouble in looking after them, yet your horses are 
 always in the best condition, your dogs are well 
 cared for, your guns are kept so clean that one 
 might rub them with a cambric handkerchief with- 
 out soiling it ; your cob, saddles, and harness are 
 always in first rate order, and you always sit down 
 to a comfortable table. I cannot imagine how you
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 101 
 
 get everything done, exactly as it should be, with- 
 out giving any orders or directions ; I am always 
 changing my servants, and still never get any to suit 
 me." 
 
 "Just the very reason why you are always un- 
 settled and uncomfortable," I replied. " I have had 
 almost all my servants for a long time. My head 
 boy has been with me ever since I arrived in the 
 country, and knows all my ways ; the same with my 
 hooka-badar, (pipe-bearer,) and Abdulla, my hor.se- 
 keeper. My dressing boy is the grandson of an old 
 native ofificer, who fought at Assaye and Seringa- 
 patam under Wellesley Bahadoor, (the brave ;) and 
 "Five Minutes," my cook, Chineah, Googooloo, 
 Naga, and sundry other of my retinue, have been 
 with me for years, and will, I think, stop until the 
 end of the chapter. They all required some little 
 teaching and breaking in at liist, but now they 
 know what is to be done. I have very little trouble 
 with them." 
 
 " You are somewhat right there," said the doctor, 
 '' and ye certainly have a weel managed household ; 
 but there 's mair in it than a' that. Flunkies are 
 somewhat like the brute bastes of the field ; they 
 know right well when they are kindly treated, and 
 they are easier led than driven, but from certain 
 strange coincidences, this child is of opinion that 
 there is a third party behind the scenes who rides 
 the roast. Tell me, oh, ye Irregular ! have ye not a 
 pair o' bright eyes, belonging to some gentle Lallbee,
 
 102 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 
 
 Amirbee, or Zenobee, who has taken a kindly in- 
 terest in the management o' your affairs for the sake 
 o' the master ? or what are ye doing wi' palanquins 
 and covered carts in a bachelor's establishment, 
 when you belong to a moss-trooping order, ' whose 
 word is snaffle, spur, and spear ' ? Ugh ! ugh ! 
 ugh!" 
 
 " Spare Hal's blushes, and let us adjourn to the 
 begum's nautch, for I hear the sound of native music 
 in that direction, and I suppose they are only wait- 
 ing for our attendance to begin," said W , rising 
 
 from his chair.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE NAUTCH. 
 
 The nautch : its fascinations.— Indian dancing-girls. — Oriental 
 eyes.— Tlieir dress and jewels. — Soaping the begum. — Indian 
 jugglers and their tricks.— The celebrated man go -tree. — The 
 sacrifice to Bowain. — Explanation. — The doctor's wonder. 
 
 " Xo treacherous powder bids conjecture quake, 
 No stiff starch'd stays make meddling fingers ache ; 
 No damsel faints when rather closely press'd, 
 But more caressing seems when most caress'd." 
 
 — Byron. 
 
 As we entered the garden or compound round the 
 bungalow we found great preparations had been 
 made for the nautch. The verandah was enclosed all 
 round with fine mat tatties or screens, behind which 
 tiie begum and her attendants sat, and through 
 which they could see the performance without being 
 exposed to the gaze of the public. In front were 
 placed about a dozen chairs, the centre ones being 
 left vacant for us, and the others occupied by the 
 native officers of the detachment. In the centre of 
 a large circle of troopers, sepoys, camp-followers 
 villagers, and attendants, who were seated in rows
 
 1 04 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 ou mats placed on the ground, was stretched a large 
 carpet, round which several huge brass candelabra 
 were placed. Overhead a large red and white 
 chaniiana was stretched, sheltering the spectators 
 from any dew that might fall ; and in the rear was 
 placed an open tent, containing the musicians, who 
 were about twenty in number. 
 
 The instruments consisted of sarindas, (a kind of 
 guitar,) clarionets, several queer-shaped fiddles, 
 cholera horns, (trumpets about five feet long, shaped 
 like an S,) hautboys, tomtoms, dubties, dolkies, and 
 drums of every size and shape ; besides small bells, 
 which were used as castanets. 
 
 Large brass and wooden trays piled with betel-nut, 
 pawn-leaves, mangoes, oranges, figs, plantains, limes, 
 grapes, melons, pomegranates, custard-apples, and 
 every kind of fruit of the country, were scattered all 
 round, besides cakes and sweetmeats, which were 
 served up ad lib. to the spectators. 
 
 As we entered the music struck up, and the whole 
 company rose and saluted us, remaining standing 
 until we were seated, and the begum's black aide- 
 de-camp paid us many compliments on the part of 
 his mistress. 
 
 The tinkling of the bangles and gungroos * was 
 now heard, and about forty handsomely -dressed 
 dancing-girls entered the circle, and salaamed grace- 
 fully to the company. Half-a-dozen of the young- 
 
 • Feet-ornaments, and strings of small bells of various tones, 
 woiQ ruuud the ankles when dancing.
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 105 
 
 est and prettiest then stepped forward and placed 
 garlands of double jessamine flowers round our 
 necks, at the same time presenting each of us with 
 a lime and a curiously-fashioned bouquet, tied to a 
 short stick of sandal wood. They then deluged us 
 with rose water, and scented us with otto of roses 
 and oil of sandal, and tripped away to the rest of 
 the performers in the centre of the circle. 
 
 The music, which up to this time had been rather 
 monotonous, now broke forth into that extremely 
 beautiful Persian air, by the immortal Hafiz, " Taza 
 ba Taza, Now ba Now," and each of the fair min- 
 strels, taking up the words of the song one by one, 
 it gradually swelled into a full chorus ; so, in a like 
 manner, one by one they commenced their graceful 
 and voluptuous measure until all were in movement, 
 and at last their beautiful sylph-like forms seemed 
 to flit before us as in a vision. 
 
 As I reclined upon the sedan, inhaling the fragrant 
 narcotic from my hookah, which at the same time 
 soothes and exhilarates, and drank in the words of 
 the songs, I felt a strange delightfully ravishing sen- 
 sation stealing gently over my senses, such as I never 
 before experienced ; and as I gazed on the graceful, 
 fawn-like carriage of the exquisite figures, cast in the 
 purest mould of elegance, before me, I thought of the 
 prophet's seventh heaven, and the green-kerchiefed 
 damsels who ever attend " the Faithful " in Para- 
 dise. 
 
 Their regular features, soft skins, and full swim-
 
 106 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 niing eyes glancing througli their glossy raven hair, 
 gave them, in my eyes, an interest which the colder 
 beauties of northern climates have never raised. 
 Gentle reader, have you ever visited the land of the 
 sun? If so, you, too, must have marked that 
 languid, expressive voluptuousness issuing forth 
 from the gazelle-like eyes of her daughters, which 
 you seek for in vain in other less favoured lands. 
 You, too, may have been captivated by some one of 
 the many fair maidens of Hind ; and, perhaps, as 
 you have gazed intensely into the depths of her dark 
 and ever-changing eyes, which, sparkling with their 
 brightness, lovingly refracted back your own, you 
 have felt they spoke a language your heart has well 
 understood ; and perhaps at such a time, as you have 
 gently put away those thick jet-black and glossy 
 tresses from her fair brow, you have whispered softly 
 in her ear, " Mera Jan, tera waste mera dil panee ho 
 gia ! " (My life ! on account of you my heart has 
 become water;) and when her fond, expressive glance 
 has met your gaze, and she has twined her snow- 
 white arms around your neck, you have " ta'en her 
 answer from her murmuring lips," and felt, as you 
 pressed her delicate and yielding form the closer to 
 your bosom, that e'en the much lauded beauty of 
 your own loved though far-distant land was cold 
 and tame compared to hers. But I am wandering, 
 and bygone scenes and happy days passed long ago 
 in those fair lands " flit o'er my mind like blissful 
 summer's dreams," and as my thoughts veer back
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 107 
 
 to days of yore and long-lost friends, I feel those 
 bright recollections stealing vividly back to memory 
 like sunny spots and pleasant oases in my varied 
 life's career. 
 
 Mais revenons d 7ios moutons. The ordinary 
 dancing of the kunchnees (or dancing girls) consists 
 more of dififerent changes of position than any defined 
 step or figure ; and in the elegant attitudes and 
 graceful postures with which they advance and retire, 
 the arms, hands, feet, neck, and eyes, moving in uni- 
 son with the music ; and I think they ought rather to 
 be called singing than dancing girls, for it has always 
 appeared to me that their dancing is only a graceful 
 and expletic accompaniment to their songs, which, 
 treating, as they generally do, of love, often assume 
 rather a lascivious character. The interior edges of 
 the eyelids are darkened with " soormah," a prepara- 
 tion of antimony, which heightens their beauty, and 
 gives them a peculiarly fascinating and bewitching 
 appearance. 
 
 The nautch has charms which possess a powerful 
 and almost irresistible influence on the affections and 
 passions of the inhabitants of the East, and forms 
 the principal recreation and amusement both with 
 high and low. The European stranger who does 
 not understand the language, and is unacquainted 
 with the habits and customs of the country, may 
 look upon a nautch as a monotonous aud unmeaning 
 performance ; but to one who can understand and 
 appreciate the beauties of Sadi and Hafiz, it has an
 
 108 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 inexplicable and alluring charm, and many a live- 
 long niglit have I passed most delightfully, whilst 
 my regiment was quartered in the Nizam's dominions, 
 in the kiosk (or garden house) of one of my native 
 friends — an Emir of Hydrabad, where, lulled by the 
 sounds of gurgling waters and flowing fountains, 
 which cooled the air, deliciously impregnated with 
 the fragrance of groves of roses and jessamines, I 
 have remained until gray dawn broke, listening 
 with rapture to the flowery language of the Persian 
 poets, and gazing on the elf-like forms that flitted 
 before me. 
 
 The ordinary costume of the Moosulmaunee danc- 
 ing-giiis consists of a "choice" or boddice, fitting 
 tight to the form, and cut low in front down the 
 breast, with short sleeves. It is generally made of 
 bright- coloured silk, richly embroidered with gold, 
 and is supposed to answer the purpose of stays, 
 corsets, and all such abominable gear with which 
 European damsels are in the habit of distorting their 
 form into what they call shape, and which must, 
 I fancy, (I am not a Benedict,) prove a consider- 
 able obstruction towards their lover's advances ; 
 for clasping one of those stiff, whalebone-sided 
 damsels round the waist must give one nearly the 
 same sensations as embracing a lamp-post or a mile- 
 stone. 
 
 The " loonga," similar to the Persian " peshuajh," 
 a richly-embroidered petticoat, is gathered round 
 the waist, and seldom falls far below the knee, show-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD, 109 
 
 ing the graceful swell of the leg and beautifully- 
 turned and slender ankles. Oh ! ye fair maidens of 
 the North, with what envy would you behold the 
 delicate forms of the daughters of " the Faithful," 
 whose full-flowing garments are confined round 
 their naturally taper waists by a silver or gold zone, 
 of less than eighteen inches in circumference. The 
 " kurtnee," a vest of the finest and most transparent 
 muslin, without sleeves, with the edges richly em- 
 broidered, is worn over the "choice," reaching to 
 the waist. Over all is the " sarree," a bright gauze 
 scarf, often of gold or silver thread, which is passed 
 round the waist, having one end thrown gracefully 
 over the shoulder. 
 
 The hair, which is almost always very long and 
 silky, and of raven black, is worn in the INfadonna 
 fashion in front, but gathered up in long plaits be- 
 hind, often falling to the ankles. 
 
 The edge of the hair from the centre of the fore- 
 head to the back of the head is often adorned with 
 a fringe of seed-pearls, or small gold chains, which 
 hangs parallel to the arch of the eyebrows, and has 
 a beautiful effect on their clear skin. This ornament 
 is also worn to this day by the Jewish women ot 
 Constantinople and Syria, and many of their other 
 jewels are of great antiquity, and resemble those de- 
 scribed by the prophet Isaiah as having belonged 
 to the daughters of Zion ; more particularly " the 
 tinkling ornaments about their feet, and the round 
 tires like the moon, the nose jewels " — which latter
 
 110 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 ornameDt is called the "boolaq," and is generally a 
 golden crescent, set with rubies, diamonds, or eme- 
 ralds, and worn in the cartilage of the nose, through 
 which a hole is bored, falling to the ^^pper lip with 
 very pretty effect. 
 
 Round the ankles, heavy massive silver or gold 
 " gungroos " are worn, of curious construction, re- 
 sembling three double curb-chains, to which rows 
 of small fuschia-shaped bells are attached, of different 
 tones, which jingle as they walk, and with which 
 they keep time to the music when they dance. 
 
 Ear-rings are worn all round the ears, but from 
 the lobes hang beautifully-formed bell-shaped drops, 
 fringed round with seed-pearls. 
 
 The neck and arms are covered with all kinds of 
 necklaces, bracelets, armlets, bangles, and silver or 
 gold rings, besides numerous charms and amulets, 
 which are supposed to shield the wearer from mis- 
 fortune, and to avert the influence of the Evil Eye. 
 
 The fingers and even the toes are ornamented with 
 rings, and the nails of both are stained a bright red 
 with "maindee," or the juice of the "henna," 
 
 During the nautch several curious feats requiring 
 great suppleness of body were performed. For in- 
 stance, a row of girls stood fronting us, standing with 
 their feet about six inches apart, between which was 
 placed a rupee or a needle with the point upright ; 
 they then all bent backwards together, and intro- 
 ducing their hands between their feet, picked up the 
 money with their lips, or the needle with their eye-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 1 1 1 
 
 lids, regaining their standing position without having 
 moved their feet. 
 
 Various kinds of fruit and sweetmeats were 
 handed round to us, the latter having been ex- 
 pressly prepared for us by the begum herself, as 
 her factotum informed us. As they were realiy 
 famous in their way, I broke out in a rhapsody, 
 in which I declared "that the Nawab with the 
 lump on his face was indeed born under a lucky 
 star, and was much to be envied, in spite of the 
 misfortune with which Allah had afflicted him. Was 
 he not to get into his harem the same day a young- 
 wife, beautiful as a peri, and a mother-in-law who 
 must have made her studies of the cuisine in heaven. 
 The only thing that astonished me was that the cho- 
 badar or gatekeeper ever allowed her to leave the 
 abode of the blessed." 
 
 The begum, her daughter, and female attendants, 
 could hear everything I said, they being seated on 
 the raised verandah just behind our sedan, a fine mat 
 screen preventing them from being seen ; and the 
 old lady took the whole of the compliment to her- 
 self, and warmly reproved her followers for tittering 
 at my speech, assuring them all in a very grave 
 manner, " that the Mogli sirdar (Mogul officer) with 
 the long black beard (meaning myself) was a very 
 respectable man, and knew what was what ; and 
 that when a man was hungry, a group of peris from 
 heaven would be but a poor exchange for one good 
 cook."
 
 112 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 On hearing this I drew in my breath, gave a deep 
 sigh, and declared " that the gifted woman who was 
 hid from my sight by the cruel screen spoke like a 
 book ; and that although pretty women were as nu- 
 merous as the hairs of one's beard, yet an observant 
 man might travel from country to country until his 
 hair was white without finding or even hearing of 
 such a paragon of perfection as she whose hospi- 
 tality we were then enjoying." 
 
 Just at this moment two jugglers entered the circle, 
 during an interval between the dances ; and one of 
 them placed before him a large earthen jar, over the 
 mouth of which a piece of skin was tightly stretched, 
 so as to form a kind of drum, which he beat with 
 two small sticks, keeping time to a curious mono- 
 tonous song, in which he exhorted his companion 
 to display the utmost of his talents, so as to amuse 
 the noble gentlemen, if he did not wish to eat dirt 
 and have his face blackened. 
 
 The other replied that, Fate helping him, he 
 would receive great presents from the truly chari- 
 table gentlemen on account of the great feats he 
 would perform ; and, after having beaten his breasts 
 and uttered sundry cabalistic incantations, he rum- 
 maged in a bag containing the implements of his 
 profession and produced a queer-shaped doll, which, 
 when touched with his wand, appeared to utter 
 curious squeaks and groans. 
 
 This he designated Madras Eamasawmy, and he 
 proceeded to inform us that it was by means of his
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 113 
 
 aid that he was going to amuse us, for that he was 
 a great jadoo-wallah, (magician.) I noticed, how- 
 ever, that, during the course of the performance, he 
 (the doll) received several cuffs if some of the feats 
 of skill did not succeed the first time. 
 
 The juggler then passed round a common-looking 
 white stone for our inspection, and then gave it to 
 a pretty little dancing-girl who was sitting close to 
 me. She closed her hand on it, and, after he had 
 touched her with his wand, he told her to open it, 
 and it was found full of white sand. 
 
 He then called a very black musician, and remov- 
 ing his turban, made him sit down near him ; then 
 taking a pinch of the sand, rubbed it down his 
 forehead, leaving a bright yellow mark. A second 
 pinch produced a blue, a third a red, and so on, 
 every pinch producing a different colour. He then ■ 
 told the girl to close her hand, which he again 
 touched with his wand, and the sand was turned 
 into a small live snake, which the little woman 
 threw down with a loud cry, which awoke the 
 Doctor, who had fallen asleep on his chair near me, 
 and caused him to stretch his legs and arms, and 
 rub his eyes for some time before he knew where he 
 was. " Ugh ! ugh ! ugh ! " he exclaimed, starting 
 to his feet with a grunt of amazement, " I must 
 surely ha' been dreaming, for I thought that auld 
 vixen of a bear was after me, and, ugh ! but she 
 was no just a cannie customer, coming tearing and 
 rampaging after a puir body wi' her lugs in th' air 
 
 H
 
 114 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 an' her jaws open like a bluid-thirsty cannibal, look- 
 ing for a' the world, as if she thought no more o' 
 swallowing ane o' the faculty than a blue pill. Och, 
 the varmint ! but what can you expect when one o' 
 the profession goes blackguarding about the country 
 wi' a real gun in the company of the likes o' ye 
 Irregulars ? Ugh, ! ugh ! ugh ! " 
 
 The juggler then caught the snake, and tapping 
 it with his wand appeared to turn it into a stone 
 again, which, after having passed round for exami- 
 nation, he swallowed. Then, stroking his stomach, 
 he made us understand that this hard living did not 
 agree with his constitution, but that, with the pro- 
 ceeds of the generosity of the sahib log, (gentlemen,) 
 he hoped to live well in future, and not to be ob- 
 liged to make such meals as he had done that morn- 
 ing, the nature and quality of which he proceeded to 
 show us ; for, striking his chin with his wand, and 
 opening his mouth, he produced some pounds' 
 weight of pebbles, followed up by a quantity of 
 small shells, then long strings of paper of different 
 colours, and finishing off by ejecting a huge black 
 scorpion all alive, round which he danced, testifying 
 his joy, as he proceeded gravely to explain to us that 
 this bold reptile having got into his stomach in some 
 water which he had drunk from a well on which 
 the Evil Eye had fallen, he had had no peace ever 
 since, as it devoured all the food he put into his 
 stomach, and prevented his appetite ever being 
 satisfied.
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 1 ] 5 
 
 He now handed round for our inspection a dry 
 maugoe-stone, which he afterwards buried in the 
 ground, muttering imprecations against all evil 
 spirits as he did so, and pouring a little water over 
 the spot, which he assured us came from the blessed 
 Ganges. 
 
 He then produced a small stone image of the 
 goddess Bowanee,* to which he prayed that he 
 might live to eat of the fruit of the tree of which he 
 had just planted the seed. Immediately afterwards 
 he dug up the stone, and finding it in tlie same state 
 as when he had buried it, pretended to be in a great 
 rage, and commenced abusing the goddess in not 
 very measured terms, revealing certain antecedents 
 to her memory, which, if true, did not speak much 
 in favour of the general morality of the Hindoo 
 divinities. His ire even led him to forget common 
 politeness to the sex, for he struck her repeatedly 
 with his wand, but finished off by promisino- to 
 break cocoa-nuts in her name, provided she assisted 
 him to please the gentlemen; and after having 
 effected a reconciliation, he again dug up the seed 
 and showed it to us, with little white germs grow- 
 ing out of one end. 
 
 He again buried it, and recommenced coaxing 
 the image to assist him, promising to sacrifice a 
 cock to her, provided she listened graciously to his 
 prayer, then covering the spot with a basket, to 
 
 * Bowanee or Kalee— the Hindoo goddess of destruction, the 
 deity of the Thugs.
 
 1 1 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 prevent the influence of any evil spirit from inter- 
 fering with the working of his spell ; in the mean- 
 time he showed us some very clever sleight-of-hand 
 tricks with cups and small cloth-balls, something 
 like thirable-rig. 
 
 When this was over he removed the basket and 
 showed us a young mangoe-plant growing, it having 
 put forward the two first leaves ; and at our request 
 he dug it up from the ground and showed us the 
 roots with the stone still adhering to them. This 
 he again planted and covered it over with the bas- 
 ket, after which he showed us some very clever 
 juggling with knives and balls. 
 
 When he again uncovered the plant it was 
 covered with blossom, which we examined carefully 
 before the basket was replaced. 
 
 He then showed us a very interesting feat, in 
 which there was really no deception. He made his 
 comrade lie down on his back, and placed on his 
 bare stomach a double betel-leaf; then, taking a 
 sharp sword, he made a ferocious drawing cut, en- 
 tirely dividing the leaf and making a line on the 
 man's stomach, yet not dividing the skin. He then 
 placed a lime on the palm of a man's hand, and cut 
 it in two with a stroke, so that both halves fell on 
 the ground, making a mark with the edge of the 
 sword on the man's hand, yet not cutting the skin. 
 
 When this feat was ended he asked the Doctor to 
 remove the basket, and when he did so, lo 1 and 
 behold, the tree was bending from the weight of five
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 117 
 
 fine mangoes, which were plucked and offered for our 
 inspection. 
 
 The performance was deservedly much applauded, 
 but the operator was looked upon with niucli dis- 
 trust and suspicion by the natives, who imagined he 
 did everything by supernatural agency ; for when 1 
 cut the mangoe he presented to me and offered half 
 of it to the little Mussulman nee girl who sat at my 
 feet, she actually shuddered as she put it away from 
 her, begging me in the name of Allah not to eat any 
 of it, as it could not be otherwise than bad, coming 
 from such a source. 
 
 I however ate it, and found it very good, though 
 I could not persuade any of the natives lo taste it. 
 
 The next trick was also exceedingly good, and 
 merits description. He crouched down before the 
 stone image of the goddess, and, making a most pro- 
 found obeisance, thanked her for the favour he had 
 found in the eyes of the honourable company then 
 assembled, and declared himself her most humble 
 votary from that moment ; and in confirmation of 
 which solemn vow he declared that he would im- 
 mediately sacrifice his only daughter, and hencefor- 
 ward devote himself to her service. He told his 
 intentions to a beautiful little girl, about six years 
 old, who was sitting near, and she began to cry and 
 struggle in a most natural manner ; but he seized 
 her, and, after stripping off all her jewels and ujtper 
 clothing, and loosening her long black hair, which 
 fell over her little naked breast and shoulders, de-
 
 118 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 liberately bound her bands and feet, covering ber 
 with a thick black veil. 
 
 He then swept the ground, on which he sprinkled 
 some of the holy Ganges water, and laying her down 
 covered her with the basket he had used "with the 
 mangoe trick, spreading a white cloth over all. He 
 then commenced a prayer to the goddess Bowanee, 
 prostrating himself before the stone image and in- 
 voking its aid, and finished by breaking a cocoa-nut 
 as a sacrifice, and placing the pieces before it. 
 
 Then breaking out into a long wild cry, he rolled 
 his eyes, foamed at the mouth like a maniac, and 
 seizing a double-edged sword, plunged it into the 
 centre of the cloth, through the basket under 
 which he had placed his child, repeating the 
 stroke twice in different places. Dark streams of 
 blood were seen running from underneath the cloth, 
 the sword being also stained ; and at each blow 
 shrieks and groans appeared to rise from under 
 the basket. For a moment all was still, and every 
 face transfixed with horror at the supposed crime ; 
 loud murmurs were heard among the men, and cries 
 of alarm arose among the females, who rushed wildly 
 about screaming and beating their breasts ; then the 
 juggler coolly made an obeisance to the idol, and 
 lifting up the bloody cloth and basket, displayed 
 to the excited spectators only the veil pierced in 
 three places, and the cord with which the child was 
 bound. The child had vanished. 
 
 All were thunderstruck, and some of the by-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 119 
 
 fitanders seized tlie jug<^ler and threatened him with 
 their veniteance if he did not restore the child he had 
 spirited away by magic. He shook them off, and 
 bowing again to the image, called thrice the name of 
 Chandbee, and the little girl came tripping in from 
 somewhere outside the circle and embraced her father. 
 Our applause was long and loud, and when the little 
 maid went round with the plate, the numerous dona- 
 tions placed upon it announced the satisfaction of all 
 the spectators. 
 
 The old Doctor, who had been rubbing his eyes 
 and twisting himself uncomfortably in his chair for 
 some time, now burst out into a dolorous grunt, and 
 with a serio-comic expression of countenance ex- 
 claimed, " Ugh ! ugh ! ugh ! "Weel ! weel ! Dinna 
 ye believe in the de'il and a' his works noo, as yere 
 catechism says ? but I reckon that was no a part o' 
 the bringing up o' the likes o' ye. But, oh ! dear 
 mon, was it no just a fearfu' sight? This chiel felt 
 his e'en maist greeting, an' his temples bursting, 
 when the auld heathen streck'd his guUie wi' sic a 
 like thud into his sonsie little bairn as coolly as if he 
 was opening a haggis, and she just felt as if she 
 couldna thole it ; for brimstane smelt right strong, as 
 the auld bleezin' hornie went down on his marrow- 
 banes to the little ne'er-do-well stane kelpie ; and 
 whilst the carle was in that position this half-scared 
 infant just peeped twice at his nether end so as to 
 mak' sure there was no dark, ill-looking appendage 
 attached or hid in the folds o' his cloth."
 
 120 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 " It was a magnificent trick," said W , " for 
 
 though I knew what was to follow, having seen it 
 before, and studiously watched every motion, I have 
 not gained the slightest clue towards finding it out, 
 and I cannot understand it at all." 
 
 " It was certainly an extraordinary deception," I 
 replied, "but the mangoe-trick puzzles me most. I 
 have a shrewd suspicion that I know how the child 
 vanished from under the basket, although I must 
 confess that I did not see it move ; but do you not 
 remember that, when he struck the first blow through 
 the cloth and drew out the sword reeking with blood, 
 several women rushed frantically round with shrieks 
 and cries of horror, causing some confusion: well, I 
 imagine that at this time the child must have crept 
 from under the basket, and slipped away concealed 
 under the flowing drapery of a female accomplice. 
 I remember I fancied the outrageous grief of one 
 old Mussulmannee woman was got up for the occa- 
 sion to divert our attention, for I noticed that, al- 
 though she was wailing and beating her breasts 
 most vehemently, no tears fell, and she raised her 
 hand and put a piece of betel-nut and a paun leaf 
 into her mouth, which action impressed me with the 
 idea that she was a confederate, and that her grief 
 was ' all my eye.' " 
 
 " It must have been as you say," says Jock, " if 
 Sawbone's friend ' Old Hornie ' did not play a part 
 in the performance, which, in my eyes, at first bor- 
 dered on the supernatural, I must confess."
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 121 
 
 The jugclers then withdrew, and the nautch con- 
 tinued until the gray of the morninL(, when our ris- 
 ing from our seats was the signal for the sports to 
 cease, and the spectators to retire. 
 
 We, the European officers, having distributed our 
 largess to the dancing- girls, proceeded to a tent close 
 by, where a handsome native supper was served in 
 the Mussulman style of cooking, and here we re- 
 mained chatting and smoking our hookahs until 
 intimation was given us that the sun had risen, 
 when each retired to his tent
 
 CHAPTER Vlir. 
 
 THE DEATH OF THE MAN-EATEK. 
 
 N"ew3 of the man-eater again. — We are once more on bis trail. — 
 The scent lost. — Googooloo gives tongue. — It warms. — My 
 plan. — Preparation. — Execution. — A ticklish moment. — 
 Death of the man-eater. — Ceremonies of the shekarries. 
 
 As I was preparing to turn in for an hour or two, 
 my head shekarry, Chineah, came up grinning, and 
 told me that the patel of the village of Botta Sin- 
 garum had sent to say that the tiger had been seen 
 skulking near the outskirts of the village a short 
 time after our return to camp. 
 
 I immediately sent for the dhoby and Kistimah, 
 and despatched them, with Chineah and the gang 
 with my guns, to the village, to find out all the par- 
 ticulars ; and, having questioned the villager who 
 brought the message rather closely, for I had some 
 doubts as to the trutti of the report, I appointed a 
 place of meeting, and after a couple of hours' 
 repose, a bath, and a hurried breakfast, I mounted 
 my nag without disturbing the other officers, who 
 were still sleeping, and joined my people at the 
 Botta Singarum police-station.
 
 THE HUxN'TIXG GROUNDS, ETC. 123 
 
 Without dismounting, I went, guided by a 
 villager, to the place where the tiger had been seen 
 the evening before, and there I found unmistak- 
 able signs of bis presence, as the pugs were plainly 
 visible. 
 
 I sent my horse back to the village, and, accom- 
 panied by tlie gang, followed his track through a 
 narrow ravine densely wooded. 
 
 Here the trail became exceedingly difficult to 
 follow, as the brute had evidently been walking 
 about backwards and forwards in the bed and along 
 the banks of a dry nullah, and we could not distin- 
 guish his last trail. 
 
 I caused the band to separate, and for half-an- 
 hour or so we were wandering about as if in a maze, 
 for the cunning brute had been describing circles, 
 and often, by following the trail, we arrived at the 
 place we started from. 
 
 Whilst we were all at a loss, suddenly I heard a 
 low "Coo" twice repeated, and I knew that Goo- 
 jrooloo, who was seldom at fault, was now on warm 
 scent, and from his call I was as certain that the 
 game was afoot as any master of hounds would 
 have been, while breaking cover, to hear his favourite 
 dog give tongue. 
 
 The gang closed up, and, guided by the sound, 
 we made our way through thick bush to where Goo- 
 gooloo was standing by a pool of water in the bed of 
 the nullah. 
 
 Here were unmistakable marks of his having
 
 124 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 quenched his thirst quite lately, for when we came 
 up the water was stUl flowing into the deeply-im- 
 printed pugs of his forefeet, which were close to the 
 edge of the pool, and I noticed that the water had 
 still the appearance of having been disturbed and 
 troubled. 
 
 After having drunk, the brute had made his way 
 to some very thick jungle, much overgrown with 
 creepers, through which we could not follow with- 
 out the aid of our axes. 
 
 Thus, stalking with any hope of success was out 
 of the question, so I held a solemn consultation with 
 Kistimah, Chineah, Googooloo, and the dhoby, as to 
 the best means of proceeding. 
 
 I felt convinced that the brute was still lurking 
 somewhere near at hand in the jungle, for, besides 
 the very recent trail we were on, I fancied I heard 
 the yelling of a swarm of monkeys, which I attri- 
 buted to their having been frightened by his appear- 
 ance ; besides, this was just the kind of place that a 
 tiger would be likely to remain in during the heat 
 of the day, as it afforded cool shade from the sun, 
 and water. 
 
 All the gang were of my opinion, and Kistimah 
 observed that, on two different occasions, after a 
 post-runner had been carried off, he had remarked 
 that the trail of the tiger led from this part of the 
 jungle to a bend in the road, where he had been 
 known frequently to lie in wait for his prey. 
 
 "These man-eaters," added he, "are great devils,
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 125 
 
 and very cunning, and I should not at all wonder if 
 even now he was watching us from some dark 
 thicket." 
 
 As he said this I carefully examined the caps of 
 my rifle, and I observed some of the gang close uj) 
 with a strange shudder, for this brute had inspired 
 them all with a wholesome fear, and prevented their 
 straggling. Two or three spoke almost in whispers, 
 as if they were afraid of his really being sufficiently 
 near to hear thera conspiring for his destruction. 
 
 At length Kistimah said that he had been think- 
 ing of a plan which, though dangerous in the execu- 
 tion, might be attended with success. It was for 
 me to go, with a man dressed as a runner, down the 
 main road at sunset, being the time the tiger gene- 
 rally carried off his victims, and to run the chance 
 of getting a shot. 
 
 At this proposition sundry interjectional expres- 
 sions, such as "Abah!" "Arrez!" "Toba!" 
 " Toba ! " escaped from the lips^ of the by-standers, 
 and, from sundry shaking of heads and other un- 
 mistakable signs, I could see that it had not found 
 much favour in their eyes. Chineah, the dhoby, and 
 one or two of the gang, however, approved of the 
 plan, and Kistimah offered to accompany me as the 
 post-runner. 
 
 This, however, I objected to, for I thought that I 
 should have a better chance of meeting the tiger if 
 I went alone than in company ; besides, I preferred 
 having only myself to look after. The plan of action
 
 126 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 once settled, I returned to the village and obtained 
 from the patel the bamboo on which the tappal- 
 runners sling the mail-bags over their shoulders. 
 To the end of this is an iron ring with a number of 
 small pieces of metal attached, making a jingling 
 noise as the man runs, which gives warning of the 
 coming of the post to any crowd that might be ob- 
 structing the path, allowing them time to get out of 
 his way. Having broken off the ring, I fastened it 
 to my belt, so as to allow it to jingle as I walked ; 
 and, arming myself with a short double rifle by 
 Westley Richards, a brace of pistols and a huge 
 shekar knife, I made Kistimah lead the way down 
 the road towards the place where the man-eater was 
 said to lurk. 
 
 About a mile from the village I made the gang 
 and the villagers who accompanied me halt, and 
 went on with Kistimah, Chineah, and Googooloo to 
 reconnoitre the ground. 
 
 The road was intersected by a narrow valley or 
 ravine, along the bottom of which was a dry, sandy 
 watercourse, the banks of which were overgrown 
 with high rank grass and reeds, intermixed with 
 low scrubby thorn-bushes. To the left was a low, 
 rocky hill, in some places bare and in others covered 
 with thick jungle, with wild date or custard-apple 
 clumps here and there. 
 
 Kistimah pointed me out a clump of rather thick 
 jungle to the right of the road, where, he said, the 
 tiger often lurked whilst on the look-out for his prey,
 
 OF THE OLD WOULD. 127 
 
 and here we saw two or three old trails. He also 
 showed me a rock from behind which the brute had 
 sprung on a post-runner some weeks before, but we 
 saw no signs of his having been there lately. 
 
 It was, however, quite what an Indian sportsman 
 would have termed "a tigerish spot," for bold scarped 
 rocks and naked fantastic peaks rose in every direc- 
 tion from amongst the dense foliage of the surround- 
 ing jungle. Here and there noble forest trees 
 towered like giant patriarchs above the lower ver- 
 dure of every shade and colour. 
 
 Not a breath of air was stirring, nor a leaf mov- 
 ing ; and as the sun was still high up, without a 
 cloud to be seen to intercept his rays, the heat was 
 most oppressive, and respiration even was becoming 
 difficult, on account of a peculiar closeness arising 
 from the decayed vegetation underfoot, and the 
 overpowering perfume of the blossoms of certain 
 jungle plants. 
 
 After having reconnoitred the country I felt 
 rather overcome with lassitude, and returned to the 
 rest of the gang, whom I found sleeping in a clump 
 of deep jungle, a little oft" the roadside. Here I laid 
 dovra to rest, protected from the piercing rays of 
 the sun by the shade of a beautiful natural bower 
 formed by two trees, which were bent down with 
 the weight of an immense mass of various kinds of 
 parasitical plants, in addition to their own foliage. 
 
 The mournful silence and strange stillness that 
 reigned was only broken at times by the distant
 
 1 28 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 scream of peafowl, or the shrill crowing of a jungle- 
 cock, who, unsuspicious of our presence, was scratch- 
 ing up the ground and clacking to his hens in an 
 adjoining thicket. The shrill and peculiarly wild 
 notes of these birds seem as if they were ordained by 
 nature to accord with the calm, still solitude, and 
 sublime grandeur of scenery of " the deep jungle." 
 They inhabit that deep jungle of which Ferishta 
 says truly, "That death dwells in the water, and 
 poison in the breeze ; where the grass is tough as 
 the teeth of serpents, and the air fetid as the 
 breath of dragons." For so it is : the deadliest fevers 
 lurk in these places most beautiful to the eye, the 
 air being poisoned and impregnated by the exhala- 
 tions of decayed leaves and other decomposed vege- 
 table matter. 
 
 I must have slept several hours, for when I awoke 
 I found the sun sinking low in the horizon ; how- 
 ever, I got up considerably refreshed for my nap, 
 and, giving myself a shake, prepared for the task I 
 had undertaken. 
 
 I carefully examined my arms, and having ascer- 
 tained that nothing had been seen by any of my 
 gang, some of whom had kept a look-out, I told my 
 people to listen for the sound of my gun, which, if 
 they heard, they might come up, otherwise that they 
 were to remain quiet, until my return. 
 
 I ordered Chineah, Kistimah, Googooloo, and the 
 dhoby to accompany me down the road with spare 
 guns, in case I might want them, and when I ar-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 129 
 
 rived at a spot which commanded a view of the 
 ravine, I sent them to climb different trees. 
 
 Kistimah begged hard to be allowed to accom- 
 pany me, as he said this tiger never attacked a man 
 in front, but always from behind ; but I would not 
 permit him, as I thought that two people would per- 
 haps scare the animal, and his footsteps might pre- 
 vent me from hearing any sound, intimating his 
 approach. 
 
 The sun had almost set as I proceeded .slowly 
 down the road, and, although I was perfectly cool 
 and as steady as possible, I felt cold drops of per- 
 spiration start from my forehead as I approached 
 the spot where so many victims had been sacrificed. 
 I passed the rock, keeping well on the look-out, lis- 
 tening carefully for the slightest sound, and I re- 
 member feeling considerably annoyed by the chirp- 
 ing made by a couple of little bulbuls, (Indian night- 
 ingales,) that were fighting in a bush close to the 
 roadside. Partridges were calling loudly all around, 
 and as I passed the watercourse 1 saw a jackal skulk- 
 ing along its bed. I stopped, shook my jingling 
 affair, and listened several times as I went along, but 
 to no purpose. 
 
 Whilst ascending the opposite side of the ravine 
 I heard a slight noise like the crackling of a dry 
 leaf : I paused, and turning to the left, fronted the 
 spot from whence I thought the noise proceeded. I 
 distinctly saw a movement or waving in the high 
 
 I
 
 130 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 grass, as if something was making its way towards 
 me : then I heard a loud purring sound, and saw 
 something twitching backwards and forwards behind 
 a clump of low bush and long grass, about eight or 
 ten paces from me, and a little in the rear. It was 
 a ticklish moment, but I felt prepared. I stepped 
 back a couple of paces, in order to get a better view, 
 which action probably saved my life, for immedi- 
 ately the brute sprang into the middle of the road, 
 alighting about six feet from the place where I was 
 standing. I fired a hurried shot ere he could gather 
 himself up for another spring, and when the smoke 
 cleared away I saw him rolling over and over in the 
 dusty road, writhing in his death agony, for my shot 
 had entered the neck and gone downwards into his 
 chest. I stepped on one side and gave him my 
 second barrel behind the ear, when dark blood 
 rushed from his nostrils, a slight tremor passed over 
 all his limbs, and all was still. The man-eater was 
 dead, and his victims avenged. 
 
 My gang, attracted by the sound of my shots, 
 came rushing up almost breathless, and long and 
 loud were the rejoicings when the tiger was recog- 
 nised by Kistimah as the cunning man-eater who 
 had been the scourge of the surrounding country for 
 months. 
 
 He was covered with mange, and had but little 
 hair left on his skin, which was of a reddish brown 
 colour, and not worth taking. I made Chineah
 
 ,.. ; »«A.v.,>r,ri.- . .v^frvJi'^v:;" ..' J i^imy\iW'4' 

 
 OF TUT. OLD WORLD. 131 
 
 cut off the right paw with iiis axe, and sent a post- 
 runner into camp with it to announce my success. 
 A bullock-cart was then fetched from the village, on 
 which the carcass was with much difficulty hoisted, 
 and dragged oft' in triumph by the villagers, for the 
 bullocks were so frightened by his smell that they 
 would not allow themselves to be harnessed to the 
 cart ; all force and coaxing being in vain to get 
 them sufficiently near to place the yokes on their 
 necks. . 
 
 All the villagers turned out to witness onr entry, 
 poojahs (religious ceremonies) were performed, sheep 
 and cocks sacrificed, and prayers offered up to sundry 
 Sawmies (Hindoo gods) in my name. I was the 
 centre of attraction of all the young girls of the 
 village, whose dark sparkling eyes flashed kindly on 
 me as they stood waving their hands on either side 
 of the road. As for the old women, I really had 
 some difficulty to get out of their clutches ; they 
 kissed the hem of my old green baize shooting-coat, 
 cracked their knuckles over my forehead for luck, 
 stroked my face and beard, patted me on the back, 
 and at last became so vehement in their attentions 
 that I had to beg of my gang to keep them off 
 
 All the men in the village turned out with torches 
 and firesticks to escort me home to camp. Rockets 
 and fireworks were burnt, matchlocks discharged, 
 and tomtoms, dubties, and cholera horns poured 
 forth their notes of triumph before the dead
 
 132 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 tiger, whose head was carried in the front on a 
 spear. 
 
 ^ly gang marched at the head of the procession, 
 and five ancient dancing-girls from the village were 
 pirouetting before the cart, howling and yelling as 
 they whirled on the •' light fantastic," in such a 
 manner that they reminded one strongly of the 
 witch scene in Macbeth. The whole camp turned 
 out to view the carcass of the man-eater, and many 
 were the congratulations I received from all parties 
 that evening. 
 
 I gave a few sheep and fowls to my gang, with 
 some rackee, and throughout the night " tliere was 
 a sound of revelry." The next day the mutilated 
 carcass was paraded on a cart in all the neighbour- 
 ing villages by Kistimah and the dhoby, who, by 
 levying contributions either in coin or kind, realised 
 a little fortune for themselves. 
 
 I have killed many tigers both before and since, 
 but I never met with such a determined enemy to 
 mankind, for he was supposed to have carried off 
 more than a hundred individuals. He fully exem- 
 plified an old Indian saying, " that when a tiger 
 has once tasted human blood he will never follow 
 other game, men proving an easier prey." On the 
 spot where the tiger was killed a large mausoleum 
 now stands, caused by the passers-by each throwing 
 a stone until a large heap is formed. Since that 
 day many a traveller who has passed that way has 
 been entertained by the old pensioned sepoy who
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 133 
 
 is in charge of the public bunnralow, with a lonfr 
 account of the death of the celebrated Adniee 
 Khanna-wallah, (Man-eater,) and old friends have 
 told me that many anxious and kind inquiries have 
 been made as to the health and welfare of the black- 
 bearded cavalry officer who slew him.
 
 SECTION IL— SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 TRICHINOPOLY. 
 
 Trichinopoly. — The evil influence of caste in India. — The re- 
 turn of Chineah, and our prospects of sport. — My shooting- 
 cart and battery described. — Preparations for a start, 
 
 I WAS quartered for some time at Trichinopoly, one 
 of the dullest of our military stations in Southern 
 India, which city certain learned authorities aver 
 has only a single sheet of brown paper between it 
 and the infernal regions. Every Anglo-Indian will 
 tell you that it is famous for three things — viz., 
 magnificent snipe-shooting, unrivalled cheroots, and 
 delicate and exquisitely wrought gold chains. 
 
 Trichy, (short for Trichinopoly,) like most other 
 Indian cities, possesses a stone citadel, formerly an 
 old pagoda, built on an almost inaccessible rock, 
 which rises isolated out of the plain and commands 
 the neighbouring country. This is surrounded by
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 135 
 
 a pettah or native town, fortified by double bas- 
 tioned walls of solid masonry, a deep ditch, (which 
 can be filled from the Cauvery, that flows at a short 
 distance from the northern face,) a covert-way and 
 glacis. This place was the scene of some severe 
 fighting in the year 1753, when the French 
 attempted to assault the place by surprise, without 
 success. Within the walls are the ruins of a hand- 
 some palace, which was formerly the habitation of 
 Ameer al Oomra, also several Mussulman mosques, 
 and Hindoo pagodas, dedicated to divers Sawmies 
 (images) of uncouth appearance and very question- 
 able character, if we axe to believe the history of 
 their lives, which is generally carved on the exterior 
 of their temples. The mainguard, commanded by 
 a European officer, is in one of the principal gate- 
 ways of the fort, which also contains an arsenal, 
 (formerly an old pagoda,) barracks, magazines, 
 storehouses, and a well-stocked bazaar, in which 
 everything may be bought, from a handspike to an 
 elephant. Outside of the wolls are extensive suburbs, 
 and at a short distance is the military cantonment, 
 where are quartered a European regiment of foot, 
 either of Her Majesty's or the East India Company's 
 service ; a regiment of Native Light Cavalry, some 
 Artillery, and three battalions of Native Infantry. 
 
 Trichinopoly is situated on tlie south bank of 
 the river Cauvery, and is considered a holy city by 
 Hindoos, being to the Madras Presidency what 
 Benares is to the Bengal. Almost opposite the town,
 
 136 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 upon an island formed by the division of the stream, 
 is the celebrated temple of Seringam, the outside 
 wall of which contains an area of more than a 
 mile square. It is the very hotbed of Brahminism, 
 and here congregate from all parts of the south of 
 India those fat, lazy, greasy cumberers of the earth, 
 who live upon clover, by the sweat of other men's 
 brows, and thrive and grow rich upon the offerings 
 which they wring from poor deluded Hindoo pil- 
 grims by working upon their credulity and supersti- 
 tious fears. 
 
 It was in the latter end of the month of April, and 
 our old stagers declared they had never felt anything 
 like the heat. We were all nearly baked, and, as old 
 
 Paddy S , of the — th, used to say, " looked like 
 
 carefully dried resuscitated mummies ;" for our faces 
 were burnt almost coffee-colour from constant ex- 
 posure to the sun whilst out snipe-shooting. 
 
 I felt thoroughly disgusted and worn out with 
 the changeless monotony of an Indian garrison life, 
 and was heartily sick of parades, drills, guard- 
 mountings, inspections, courts-martial, courts of in- 
 quest, inquiry, request, committees, meetings, and 
 boards of every kind. Mainguard and regimental 
 duty seemed to come round oftener than usual, and 
 nothing was stirring except the mosquitos, which 
 are one of the plagues of India, and those of Trichy 
 are celebrated as galleynippers. 
 
 I was sitting, after dinner one evening, in the 
 verandah of the mess-house, conversing with three
 
 OF TUE OLD WORLD, 137 
 
 or four of my brother-officers, listening to the regi- 
 mental band, and cogitating upon the vapid life I 
 was leading, when suddenly my chochra (a young 
 Mussulman lad, whose office it was to assist me to 
 dress and wait at table) rushed up with frantic 
 haste, exclaiming, " Sahib, sahib, Chineah iya hy ! " 
 (Sir, sir, Chineah has come !) Now Chineah was my 
 head shekarry or huntsman, who had been out on a 
 reconnoitring expedition after large game, and a 
 great man in my establishment. 
 
 " Let us have him in at once," said B , " and 
 
 hear where he has been, and what shckar-khubber 
 (hunting news) he has brought." 
 
 So Chineah was sent for, and in a few minutes 
 was salaaming before us. 
 
 " Well, Chineah," said I, " what great news have 
 you brought, that you have been away so long? 
 From not having heard from you, I have been ex- 
 pecting yoii back every day for the last fortnight, 
 and at last began to imagine that some accident 
 had happened, for three or four of your women 
 came up to me declaring that they had heard in 
 the bazaar that you had been eaten by a tiger." 
 
 " Women no good, master," answered he, " tell 
 plenty lies, go too much to the bazaar ; plenty, 
 plenty talking, never do any work. I go away 
 nearly two months, then come home, find no cloth 
 in ffo-down,* no rice, no nuffin. To-morrow make 
 plenty bobbery, (noise), plenty floggee. Ah, sahib ! 
 
 * Go-down — servants' quarters, generally out-offices.
 
 138 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 karree log kuch fida na, (Ah, sir ! womenkind are 
 of no good.") 
 
 "Never mind them," replied I, "let us hear 
 
 what news of game you have brought, for B 
 
 sahib and I are going out on a shekar trip in the 
 course of a few days, and we want to hear what our 
 chances are." 
 
 " "Well, sahib, master knows very well I went to 
 Putchee Mullah and Koolee Mullah Hills, where I 
 only see a few chetel, (spotted deer,) so I went on 
 to Salem, and on the sides of the Sheveroy Hills 
 I saw some sambur, chetel, and old trail of jungle 
 bice, (bison.) I stop at Mulliarry village, five, six 
 days, and there I meet one man, Naga, very good 
 shekarry, so I bring with me ; suppose master want 
 other shekar man. This man tell me that there 
 plenty shekar got in Bowani Jungle, so I go there 
 with him, and all over the Combei Jungle, where I 
 see plenty janwars, (wild beasts.) There got tigers, 
 panthers, bears, bison, elk, spotted deer, and ante- 
 lopes, and near the Hassanoor Pass I saw plenty old 
 marks of elephant and some neilghau, (literally blue 
 cow.) Suppose master go to Bowani, get plenty 
 good shekar. Naga knows that jungle very well ; 
 and I tell all Mulcher men (a jungle tribe) that 
 master coming soon ; and suppose master get plenty 
 shooting, Mulcher men get plenty, plenty bucksheesh, 
 (presents.") 
 
 "Well, Chineah," said I, "you have done your 
 work very well, and in the course of a few days.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD, 139 
 
 Inshallah, (please God,) we shall try our luck in that 
 part of the country. Now go to Yacoob-Khan, and 
 tell him to give you a gold mohur (about 30s.) for 
 yourself and the gang to make merry with, but take 
 care none of you get into trouble ; for if any of you 
 find your way into cholcee (quod) and are brought 
 up before the gora sahib, (white gentleman, a name 
 often given to the European magistrate,) I shall ask 
 him not to fine you, but to take the change out of 
 your backs." 
 
 " Me nebber want to see that gentleman till me 
 goes to ' Jehanum,' " * exclaimed Chineah, as he 
 withdrew, grinning and showing his teeth — " him 
 no good." 
 
 "Well, B ," said I, "I do not think we 
 
 can do better than try the Bowani Jungle, for I 
 anticipate good sport from Chineah's account of 
 the country, which you may rely upon is correct, 
 as he has been with me a long time, and I have 
 never yet found him deceive me. I shall go at 
 once to H , and ask him to forward my appli- 
 cation for two months' leave of absence, and I will 
 then ask the general to give me permission to start 
 at once in anticipation of leave from army head- 
 quarters." 
 
 I found Major H , who was then command- 
 ing the regiment, in conversation with old S 
 
 of the Commissariat, and he consented at once 
 to forward my application, at the same time tell- 
 
 * Jehanum — " tbe infernal regions.''
 
 140 THE HUNTING OxEOUNDS 
 
 ing me that he had no doubt but that it would be 
 granted. 
 
 The next three days were devoted to preparations 
 for my sporting campaign, which I shall describe for 
 the benefit of the uninitiated. 
 
 I had constructed, according to my own plan and 
 fancy, what I should advise every Indian sportsman 
 to possess — that is, a very comfortable teak-wood 
 bullock-cart, on springs, and fitted up for travel- 
 ling. Mine was seven feet long by four broad, 
 and contained three large watertight boxes or 
 compartments, to hold my kit and comestibles en 
 route, with a fourth, copper-lined and fitted with a 
 screw-top, which fastened with a lock, for my 
 ammunition, besides a rack for eight guns. The 
 wooden sides were about two feet and a half in 
 height, and from them sprang six bamboo hoops, 
 on which the white painted canvas top was ex- 
 tended ; the whole of which gear was movable, 
 and could be cleared away at a moment's notice. 
 The bottom of the cart was slightly bevelled off 
 round, caulked and sheathed with copper, so that, 
 by taking out the linchpins and putting the wheels 
 into the cart, my trap served me as a boat to 
 transfer myself and goods across rivers otherwise 
 impassable. When in cantonment I took out the 
 pole and bullock-yoke, and fitted in a pair of 
 shafts ; and although it was not a very light 
 vehicle, an old Australian mare I had used to trot 
 alonsr with it with ejreat ease. The whole length
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 141 
 
 of the bottom of the cart was fitted with a hair 
 mattress, and the sides were well padded, so that 
 I managed, when travelling, to get along pretty 
 comfortably. 
 
 With posted bullocks I could generally average 
 about four miles an hour; and as I halted only 
 during the heat of the day, I managed to get over 
 the ground pretty quickly for India. 
 
 My battery, on which I prided myself very 
 much, consisted of a brace of ten-gauge rifles by 
 Purdey ; a double rifle and two smooth-bores eight- 
 gauge by Westley Richards ; a double rifle by 
 Burrows of Preston ; two fowling-pieces, sixteen- 
 bore ; a Purday and a long Joe Manton, botli 
 clipping shot-guns ; a long four-bore duck-gun by 
 Fullard, (after a single discharge of which I have 
 picked up seventeen duck and teal ;) and a German 
 pea-rifle. 
 
 A large Yankee backwoodsman's axe, a couple 
 of bill-hooks, an adze, and other tools, were fitted 
 against the side of my cart, so as to be ready at 
 hand in case of a break-down, which is an event 
 of frequent occurrence in Indian travelling. An 
 obstreperous bullock or a careless driver is very 
 liable to smash a pole or a yoke en route; and, 
 in many parts of the country where game abounds, 
 village smiths are difficult to be met with, and I 
 have often been saved hours, and even days' delay, 
 by having the means of repairing them at hand. 
 
 A well-supplied medicine-chest, in which the qui-
 
 142 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 nine bottle loomed very large, was carefully stowed 
 away in one of the compartments — a very necessary 
 precaution in a country where disease makes such 
 rapid progress. Besides having often found this 
 chest extremely useful, the mere fact of having it 
 with me inspired my people with confidence, and 
 overcame their fear of the malaria of the dense 
 jungle. 
 
 My supplies consisted chiefly of tea, coffee, sugar, 
 spices, curry stuff, brandy, tobacco, biscuits, and 
 kiln-dried flour, (country flour will not keep.) As 
 bread soon gets dry and spoils in a hot climate, I 
 used to prepare a kind of rusk for travelling, by 
 cutting up loaves in small pieces, and having them 
 baked until they became of a light brown colour. 
 Prepared in this way, if they are carefully kept in 
 tin cases, they remain fresh and palatable for many 
 weeks, and are a great improvement upon Indian 
 biscuits for breakfast. 
 
 My boy was very clever in preparing chapaties or 
 hoppers, which are a kind of girdle-cake baked on 
 an iron plate, and generally made of rice-flour. The 
 materials being always to be procured, even in the 
 smallest village, these cakes are much used in India 
 as a substitute for bread. 
 
 My time for three days was occupied in preparing 
 for the trip, hiring coolies, and superintending the 
 casting of bullets for my different guns. In case of 
 meeting with elephants I had some brass bullets 
 cast, besides others, which I now infinitely prefer,
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 1 iV> 
 
 made of a mixture of lead and zinc. Bullets of this 
 material are much heavier than if they were made 
 of brass, and are sufficiently hard for any purpose. 
 I generally put in one-third of zinc to two of lead ; 
 and often, when I could not get zinc, I have used tin 
 in the same proportion, which I found equally good. 
 
 For my large smooth-bores I used round balls, 
 and generally put a couple in my second barrel ; 
 for, although I have frequently heard people anim- 
 advert upon this practice as dangerous, I never 
 found any evil effects resulting from it : nor are the 
 guns shaken, although I have used them upwards 
 of a dozen years, generally firing from four to five 
 drachms of powder. For close shooting (when I have 
 a gun by a maker whom I can depend upon) I pre- 
 fer to have a brace of balls in my second barrel ; 
 and although I do not advocate this as a principle, I 
 have found it more effectual in stopping the charge 
 of an infuriated wounded animal. 
 
 I may, however, observe that I go to a good gun- 
 maker, pay a fair price, and see that I get a first- 
 class article for my money. I have always found it 
 cheaper in the end to have a first-class arm, and I 
 think that success in the field often depends upon 
 the degree of confidence which is placed in the guns. 
 
 Having given some account of my shooting-cart 
 and battery, I shall go on to describe the rest of my 
 equipment, as perhaps a few wrinkles on the proper 
 dress for a sportsman might be useful to young 
 hands.
 
 144 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 The first great rule to be observed is to have all 
 your dress as nearly as possible of the same colour 
 as the general aspect of the country you are going 
 to shoot over. Thus, when you are deer-stalking 
 or tracking large game in woods before the leaf has 
 fallen, green is the best colour ; when the trees are 
 bare, dark brown — the colour of the trunk and 
 branches ; are you after antelope on the plain or ibex 
 among the rocks, drab is the best colour. Should 
 you be waging war against the grisly bear or ibex 
 in the snow, you would be able to get much nearer 
 to your game unobserved if you, as I have done, 
 wore a shirt outside. Even in duck-shooting on the 
 coast of England, in winter, you stand a much bet- 
 ter chance of making a heavy bag if you follow this 
 plan of dressing. 
 
 The second rule is, having all your clothes made 
 to fit well. The most convenient costume for large- 
 game shooting is a long jacket, reaching a little over 
 the hips, with pockets outside, and sleeves like a 
 shirt, fastening at the wrist with a couple of buttons. 
 It should be loosely made, so as to allow the greatest 
 ease and freedom to the limbs. A long waistcoat, 
 with pockets, and breeches fitting loosely over the 
 knee but rather tightly over the calf. 
 
 The gaiters, which I like to fasten with leather 
 buttons down the outside, should fit tightly to the 
 leg and well over the boots. The best material to 
 have them made from is corduroy, fustian, or mole- 
 skin, when you cannot get properly dressed deerskin.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 145 
 
 1 always found laced-up ankle-boots of deerskin 
 the most comfortable wear for bard fagging, and I 
 prefer substantial single soles, double ones being too 
 heavy to run in. 
 
 A leather hunting-cap is the best protection to 
 the head for large-game shooting in tlie jungles of 
 India, and I prefer to have peaks both before and 
 behind, as the one saves the eyes and face from 
 thorns, and the other prevents anything from falling 
 down the back of your neck. In jungles where the 
 tree-leech abounds this is a great consideration, for 
 those animals often drop from the branches as you 
 shake them in passing and alight upon your person, 
 when they seem all to make for the back of your 
 neck by instinct. When in such jungles it is abso- 
 lutely necessary to wear leech-gaiters, or long closely- 
 woven cotton stockings, over your socks, (which 
 should be of lambswool,) under your boots and 
 gaiters, and over your breeches, as far as they will 
 go. Even with this safeguard I have sometimes 
 found my boots and stockings drenched with blood 
 in the evening, though I could not ascertain how 
 they got in. 
 
 I found velveteen, corduroy, or moleskin, the most 
 comfortable for wear whilst out after large game, 
 and I had entire suits made of different colours, so 
 as to suit the ground I was going to shoot over. 
 
 Eound my waist I always wore a stout, broad 
 leather-belt, with an iron ring substantially fastened 
 at the back, to which I could fasten a strong silk 
 
 K
 
 1 tC THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 cord. This I found of great use as a safeguard in 
 case of having to descend any steep slope or narrow 
 ledge of rock when in the pursuit of game. 
 
 In my belt I carried a small double-barrelled 
 pistol, (a revolver would have been preferable,) a 
 double field-glass, a small-pouch for ammunition, a 
 leather case containing flint, steel, and tinder, and a 
 straight double-edged hunting-knife, which, with the 
 glass and pistol, had small rings attached, so as to 
 enable me to fasten them by thin cords to my belt, 
 to prevent their being lost. 
 
 In my pocket I carried a pricker, a nipple wrench, 
 turnscrew, spare nipples, and a little instrument for 
 filling the nipples with fresh powder. 
 
 Chineah, my head shekarry, carried a telescope, 
 by Dollond, and a brandy flask slung over his 
 shoulders, a shekar knife, and small axe in his belt, 
 and my favourite rifle, with its ammunition. Be- 
 sides which, he always managed to stow away for 
 me a pair of clean socks, which I found a great 
 luxury after a severe fag. 
 
 Googooloo, who was my best tracker, always kept 
 at my heels, with ray second gun, and carried in his 
 belt a knife, a bill-hook for cutting the way through 
 thick jungle, and a few rounds of ammunition. 
 
 jMootoo, (short for Choury Moottoo,) Veerapah, 
 Narinah, and Rungasawmy, trackers, each carried a 
 spare gun with its ammunition, and a knife with a 
 saw, bill-hook, or axe in his belt. 
 
 Ramasawmy (a preparer of skins) carried a large
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD- 147 
 
 backwoodsman's axe, as well as the implements of 
 his profession, and Perriatumbee, who usually went 
 by the abbreviation of " the Gooroo," on account of 
 his havincr some pretensions to priestcraft, carried a 
 large leather " musliuk" or skin containing water. 
 
 To Naga, the Mulliary whom Chineah had en- 
 listed in his late reconnaissance, I entrusted a gun, 
 and furnished him with the bill-hook and short 
 spear, with which weapons all my people were armed, 
 as they served not only as a protection, in case any 
 of them were detached, but also as a kind of badge 
 which showed they belonged to the shekar gang. 
 Besides my own regular shekarries, I engaged four 
 coolies to carry my traps through jungle-paths where 
 carts or ponies could not go. 
 
 I had given orders to my head servant to see that 
 every man was provided with a new pair of " chup- 
 ples" or sandals, a dark " langooty" or waist-cloth, 
 and a " combley jule" or country blanket, made of 
 coarse wool, as I could not afford to have any of 
 them laid up with sore feet or illness ; and the day 
 before they were to start I had an inspection parade, 
 at which each man appeared in his new tog, equipped 
 for the road. 
 
 B did the same with his followers, and we 
 
 had our tents pitched, our horses and dogs picketed, 
 and our coolies, baggage-ponies, and bullocks ex- 
 amined, so that we might be certain that nothing 
 requisite was left behind, and everything in order. 
 
 We had a large double tent for ourselves, whilst
 
 148 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 en route, fitted with cuscus-grass tatties, a liill-tent 
 and a bachoba (a tent without pole) for jungle work, 
 two bell-tents for our people, and a large " shamiana" 
 or canvas screen, to sling between trees or fasten on 
 poles, so as to shelter our horses from the intense 
 heat of the midday sun. 
 
 My stud consisted of two Arabs, (first-rate horses 
 for cross country after hog,) " Gooty," a Mahratta 
 shooting- pony, who could do everything but speak, 
 and an Australian mare, which I generally rode on 
 the march, and sometimes, when the road was good, 
 
 drove in the cart. B had two horses and two 
 
 ponies, and we had besides hired four baggage-tat- 
 toos and four carriage-bullocks for our tents and 
 baggage. 
 
 My servants, who were almost all Mussulmans, 
 consisted of Yacoob Khan, my head man, " Five 
 Minutes," my cook, Hassan, a hooka-badar, Cassim 
 Bey, and Lall Khan, two youngsters who waited at 
 table and helped me to dress, a waterman, a tent- 
 Lascar, four " syces" or grooms, four grass-cutters, 
 two dog-boys, and two soldiers, who, in cantonment, 
 were supposed to keep my regimentals in order, but 
 when on a shekar expedition made themselves gene- 
 rally useful. 
 
 B 's followers numbered more than a dozen, 
 
 so that altogether the gang, our servants, coolies, 
 and camp-followers, amounted to about forty indi- 
 viduals. 
 
 They all paraded in marching trim, to receive a
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 140 
 
 small advance of pay to be left with their families, 
 and I gave them a trifle to be expended in making 
 caste ceremonies, and offering Poojahs to their fa- 
 vourite deities, so that each might propitiate his 
 Savvmy for good luck on the expedition. 
 
 The Gooroo rendered himself very conspicuous by 
 killing a sheep in front on an image of Cajasoura- 
 mardanam, (the god of Hunting,) who is represented 
 with four arms, having a lance in two hands and 
 curious reptiles in the others, clad in a tiger's skin, 
 and seated upon that of an elephant.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE SHEVEROYS. 
 
 Departure of the gang. — Our start. — The journey. — Salena.— 
 The Sheveroy hills, and our reception. — Anglo-Indian hospi- 
 tality. — Claret cup. — News of bison and bears. — Googooloo 
 on trail. — We follow. — A bull-bison lost. — The news of bears 
 confirmed. — Their habits described. 
 
 All were in good spirits, and it would have been a 
 curious sight for a stranger from Europe to have 
 witnessed the departure of our party as they filed 
 through the gateway in front of my bungalow, sing- 
 ing an extemporary song descriptive of the great 
 sporting feats they were going to perform. 
 
 First came our eight horses in their head-stalls 
 and jules, (stable - clothing,) with their saddles 
 loosely girthed, each led by his respective syce or 
 groom and followed by the grass-cutter, who carried 
 the head and heel ropes, gram, (a kind of bean,) 
 and cooking-pots, &c. Then came my two dog- 
 boys, one with a couple of Anglo-Persian grey- 
 hounds, and the other with four huge creatures of 
 the Poligar breed, famous animals to lay after a
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 151 
 
 wounded deer, or to bring a bear or hog to bay. 
 These were followed by the gang, with Chineah at 
 their head, each carrying a gun or rifle and short 
 
 spear, and numbering with B 's followers close 
 
 upon a dozen strong and wiry fellows, fit for any 
 kind of work. Baggage - ponies, bullocks, and 
 coolies, laden with tents, boxes, &c., with a troop 
 of servants and hangers-on, brought up the rear. 
 
 Our people were all going on three marches in 
 advance to the village of Tottcyum, (about thirty- 
 five miles from Trichy, on the Salem road,) where 
 they were to await our arrival, as, our leave not 
 having yet appeared in orders, we were unable to 
 quit cantonments until the next day. Tlie police 
 authorities had been previously warned to have 
 carriage-bullocks posted for us every five or six 
 miles, as we determined to lose no tinae on the 
 road. The next day being the 1st of May, we 
 attended a muster parade, and, after paying a few 
 visits P.P.C. to the ladies of our acquaintance, and 
 biddino; adieu to some " of the kindliest men who 
 ever drew sword," at about 3 p.m. we attired our- 
 selves in the light and airy costume of muslin 
 shirts, silk long- drawers, and slippers, and stepping 
 into my cart, in a few moments we were rolling 
 alonor at the rate of five or six miles an hour on 
 the northern road leading to Salem. 
 
 For some time we amused ourselves by chaf- 
 fing and poking fun at the wayfarers, particu- 
 larly with some pilgrims who were carrying two
 
 152 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 encased chatties (earthen pots) of Ganges water* 
 which we taxed them with having taken from 
 some tank on the road, and which at last they 
 avowed. 
 
 When it grew dark we lighted our lamp, and 
 chess and 4carU served to pass away the time until 
 we grew sleepy, when we rolled ourselves in the 
 coverlids, and were soon in the arms of Mor- 
 pheus. 
 
 About 2 A.M. we were awoke by the flashing of 
 torches and the sound of voices, and found our- 
 selves halted in front of the Travellers' Bungalow 
 at Totteyum, surrounded by our people, who had 
 arrived the evening before. After hastily swallow- 
 ing a cup of coffeo-, and lighting cheroots, fresh 
 bullocks were yoked, and we were soon again en 
 route, surrounded by the gang, our tents and bag- 
 gage having gone on before. 
 
 At about 8 A.M. we arrived at the Travellers' 
 Bungalow of Namkul, (distance twenty miles,) 
 where we found our servants, a bath, and breakfast 
 awaiting us. After having arranged these pre- 
 liminaries to our satisfaction, we strolled out with 
 our guns, shot a few teal and snipe under the bund 
 or embankment of a tank, and visited a fine old 
 hill-fort, which is close to the town, and which was 
 built by the inhabitants in former years as a refuge 
 
 * The water of the Ganges, being considered holy, is much 
 used by the Hindoos in the performance of their " caste cere- 
 monies," and is an article of commerce in the south of India.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 153 
 
 against the Mahratta hordes and other predatory 
 bands which then ravaged the country. 
 
 As our people had not yet got quite into march- 
 ing trim, we slept at Namkul, starting the next 
 morning for Moonoo-Choudy, distance fifteen miles, 
 where we remained during the heat of the day, 
 going on in the cool of the evening to Malloor, 
 distance eleven miles, in which place we passed the 
 night, and rode into Salem the following morning, 
 putting up with Captain S , who was command- 
 ing the detachment of native veterans which garri- 
 soned the station. 
 
 After breakfast we visited the shop of the cele- 
 brated Arnatchellum, whose well-balanced boar- 
 spears, axes, and hunting - knives are renowned 
 throughout India for the temper of the steel and 
 the superior finish of the workmanship. He 
 charges European prices for everything, and I found 
 him as overreaching a rogue as any other nigger. 
 
 Salem, though a large and densely -populated 
 town, possesses very few attractions, and as the 
 weather was fearfully hot, and cholera was carry- 
 ing off great numbers of natives daily, I did not 
 care about exposing my people to it more than 
 necessary, so I sent them off at once with the bag- 
 gage to Bowani, there to await our arrival. 
 
 I kept "Five Minutes," Googooloo, a couple of 
 servants, and the pony with me, together with one 
 
 of B 's hor«es and the cart, and directed 
 
 Chineah and the rest of the gang to try and gain
 
 154 THE flUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 all the information they could about the country 
 round about Bowani, 
 
 As soon as we had seen them eii route we made 
 preparations for ascending the Sheveroy HUls, which 
 rise from the plains about five miles to the northward 
 of the town of Salem, and are about six thousand 
 feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 The magistrates, judges, and collectors reside 
 here during the greater part of the year, and we 
 were fortunate enough to be able to engage a fur- 
 nished bungalow belonging to Mr B , a coffee- 
 planter, where we resolved to stay for a few days, 
 as B had been ailing, on account of the exces- 
 sive heat. 
 
 A short time before sunset we began to ascend 
 the ghaut, (pass,) by a rather steep winding road 
 cut through the jungle, so that it was almost dark 
 by the time we got to the top. The air was de- 
 lightfully cool, and we appeared to inhale quite 
 a different atmosphere to that we had lately left 
 in the low country. We found a very comfort- 
 able bungalow prepared for us, and, being rather 
 tired, we turned in early, and enjoyed a most re- 
 freshing night's rest, the first we had had for some 
 time, as in the very hot weather, unless the 
 " punkah " (fan) is kept going over the bed un- 
 ceasingly, but little sleep is obtainable — one tosses 
 about from side to side all night, and gets up in the 
 morning exhausted, and overcome with lassitude and 
 languor.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD, 155 
 
 I rose quite a new man the next morning, and 
 
 finding B still asleep, strolled out into the 
 
 garden to enjoy the fresh air, which was mild and 
 cool, as on a ]\Iay-day in England. 
 
 The cottage we occupied is built on a little hill 
 or knoll, and surrounded by beautifully kept coffee- 
 plantations. The sides and roof were literally 
 covered with odoriferous creepers, among which I 
 noticed the woodbine, honeysuckle, jessamine, pas- 
 sion-flower, and a tall climbing fuchsia with very 
 large scarlet bloom. Flowers which I never saw in 
 the low country appeared to grow indigenous. I 
 noticed the primroses, violets, and crocus in the 
 parterres round the house, besides lilies, roses, and 
 geraniums, of all kinds and colours. The kitchen- 
 garden was full of European vegetables, and the 
 cabbages, cauliflowers, turnips, carrots, lettuces, 
 peas, artichokes, radishes, and mustard and cress 
 forcibly recalled to mind my boyhood's home in Old 
 England, 
 
 B joined me in the garden, and we were 
 
 engaged in gathering the materials for a salad for 
 breakfast (which in India is considered a great 
 luxury) when we heard the clattering of horses' 
 hoofs on the road, and almost immediately two 
 
 coflee-planters, D and B , rode up to the 
 
 cottage-door, and introduced themselves. 
 
 In no part of the world, and I have travelled 
 over a good deal of it, have I met with that free 
 courtesy and affable urbanity which is invariably
 
 1 56 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 to be found amon.i^ the British residents in India. 
 A stranger passing through the country meets 
 with the most generous and open-handed hospi- 
 tality wherever he goes, and the supposed charac- 
 teristics of an Englishman — " stiffness and cold 
 hauteur of manner " — are rarely to be met with in 
 the East. On the arrival of a stranger at an up- 
 country station, it is the custom for all the residents 
 (whatever may be their rank) to call upon him ; 
 hence arises that kind and friendly intercourse 
 which exists everywhere in Anglo-Indian society, 
 and is rarely to be met with elsewhere. 
 
 " We heard you had come up," said D , a 
 
 fine specimen of an open-hearted, good-tempered 
 Englishman, " and not knowing whether you had 
 thought of laying in a supply of provisions from 
 the low country, as you can procure nothing here, 
 I have taken the liberty of bringing you half a sheep 
 of my own breeding, a few fattened fowls and ducks, 
 some eggs and cream, a leash of hares, and a few 
 brace of partridges, which ought to eat tender, as 
 they were killed nearly a week ago." 
 
 "Thanks old fellow!" said B . "They 
 
 will indeed prove a treat, for we have been obliged 
 to eat mutton and fowls almost immediately after 
 they have been killed, lately, as nothing will keep 
 throughout the day in the low country this 
 weather. Here, Harry, do you concoct for us 
 one of your insinuating 'claret cups,' whilst I 
 see ' Five Minutes ' about the breakfast, for I think
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. ]57 
 
 we shall be six, as I expect R the collector, 
 
 and the sub-judge, their horse-keepers having ah-eady 
 arrived." 
 
 Whilst he was speaking they rode up, and in a 
 few moments we were all sitting in the porch dis- 
 cussing the brew ; which was so highly approved 
 of by all parties that I will give the recipe, for the 
 benefit of my readers, as it was prepared by the 
 factotum of the late Brigadier of Hydrabad, Arab 
 Mac, (a celebrated old Indian general, of great 
 racing and sporting notoriety,) who gloried in 
 having the finest stud and the best kitchen in 
 India : — " To a bottle of claret add three wine- 
 glasses of cognac, a couple of large tablespoons of 
 sugar, the rind of a lime cut thin, a dozen cloves, 
 the seeds of three cardamum-pods, a quarter of a 
 nutmeg, one green chili, a small sprig of burrage, 
 a dozen leaves of mint, and a threatening of lime- 
 juice, or, what is perhaps better, a lime cut into 
 thin slices. Let it stand for twenty minutes, and 
 then add three bottles of cooled soda-water, stirring 
 it up well, and serving it out with a ladel whilst in 
 a state of effervescence." 
 
 After breakfast, at which sundry shekar projects 
 
 were discussed, D and I rode out to a Mul- 
 
 liarry village, followed by our horse-keepers and 
 Googooloo carrying guns, in order to hold a con- 
 sultation with two men who were said to know the 
 country well. 
 
 On the road I shot a brace of spur-fowl and a
 
 158 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 hare weighing nearly ten pounds — almost twice the 
 size of the ordinary Indian species, which rarely 
 averages more than six. I also enjoyed the wild 
 raspberries, which grew in the woods in great 
 abundance. 
 
 On arriving at the village we soon found the men 
 we were looking for, and learnt that bison had been 
 seen the day before in the jungle on the side of the 
 hills. I accordingly sent Googooloo and one of the 
 Mulliarries to follow their trail, and find out if they 
 were there still ; and accompanied by the other, we 
 went to a second village, where a man resided who 
 knew some hill full of caves which were inhabited 
 by several bears. 
 
 From the account he gave, we determined to try 
 our chance the day after ; and after having waited 
 some time for Googooloo, who did not make his ap- 
 pearance, we returned to our cottage. 
 
 Whilst we were at dinner he came in and told me 
 that he had tracked a herd of fine bison (a bull and 
 four cows) to a small detached hill, a short distance 
 from the foot of the Sheveroys, where he came up to 
 them whilst they were feeding, and, after watching 
 them for some time, he retired without disturbing 
 them. 
 
 As this was not very far from the place where the 
 
 bears were said to be, B , D , and myself 
 
 agreed to start early the following morning to try 
 and beat the bison out. The collector sent some of 
 his " peons " (police) to prepare beaters, and D
 
 OP THE OLD WORLD. 159 
 
 sent down a small tent to a village where we in- 
 tended to sleep the following night. 
 
 The next morning we started at daybreak ; de- 
 scended the ghaut, and wound round the base of 
 the Sheveroys for a distance of nearly seven miles, 
 when Googooloo pointed us out the place where 
 he had come up with the bison. Had I been 
 alone, I should undoubtedly have preferred to try 
 stalking rather than beating, but with three (and 
 one a green hand, D ) it was out of the ques- 
 tion. 
 
 We found the peons had collected about forty 
 Coollies and villagers, whom I sent with Googooloo 
 to the further side of the hill, as I felt convinced 
 the herd, if it was still there, would endeavour to 
 make for the thick jungle on the sides of the She- 
 veroys. 
 
 There were two likely-looking places for the bison 
 
 to break, at one of which B posted himself, and 
 
 D and myself took the other. Both places were 
 
 by a broad stony watercourse that wound along the 
 valley which separated the hill where the bison were 
 said to be, from the Sheveroy range, and the herd 
 would have to cross it in order to gain the opposite 
 jungle. 
 
 D was very anxious to kill a bison, and I 
 
 promised to give him the shot should the herd 
 break into the open near us. He annoyed me very 
 much, however, by his fidgety movements, for he 
 could not sit quiet a moment, and kept handling
 
 160 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 the lock of an old rifle, until I made up my mind 
 that he would either shoot me or some of the half- 
 a-dozen people whom, in spite of my remonstrance, 
 he would have sitting near us, to my intense dis- 
 gust ; for my olfactory organs received a shock they 
 did not get over for some time, from the offensive 
 smell that was emitted by the exhalation from their 
 bodies, the cocoa-nut oil in their hair, and the garlic 
 and sour rice they had been eating. 
 
 At last the bison broke, and a fine bull came 
 tearing down right in front of us, and, when about 
 
 twenty paces distant, D put up his piece ; but 
 
 being an old and unserviceable piece of goods, it 
 snicked, and away went the quarry in the thick 
 jungle on the other side the watercourse. 
 
 I caught a glimpse of his hinder quarters as he 
 was tearing along the rising ground on the opposite 
 side of the ravine, and I let drive with my rifle, 
 hoping to stop him by a chance shot. I heard the 
 " thud " of the ball as it struck him, and doubled 
 liim up for the moment, but he was not hit in a 
 vital place, and I heard him bellowing as he tore 
 through the dense jungle that covers the sides of 
 the hills. 
 
 Both D and I tracked him for some dis- 
 tance, and in some places large gouts of blood were 
 visible ; but on coming to a watercourse, which bore 
 the marks of his having cleared at a bound, I gave 
 
 over the pursuit, and went in search of B , 
 
 whom we heard fire a double shot. We found him
 
 OP THE OLD WORLD. 161 
 
 taking out the offal of a doe spotted-deer he had 
 killed, and preparing it for carriage. He had seen 
 three bison break, but they were out of range of his 
 rifle. 
 
 The beaters now made their appearance, and, 
 slinging the deer on long poles, which they carried 
 over their shoulders, took it to the place where we 
 had left our horses. I chose a dozen of the most 
 intelligent-looking of the number to accompany us, 
 and dismissed the rest with a bucksheesh, telling 
 them they would be well paid if they brought us 
 news of large game. Then mounting our horses, we 
 rode off to the village where our tent had been sent, 
 which was about six miles further, and found "Five 
 Minutes " anxiously expecting our arrival, dinner 
 being nearly ready. 
 
 We had a most refreshing bathe in a tank, on the 
 bund or stone embankment of which our tent was 
 pitched, under the shade of a beautiful banian-tree, 
 and afterwards did ample justice to his entertain- 
 ment. Poor D was in a dreadful way about 
 
 his old piece, and I spared him the roasting I had 
 fully intended to have given him for the nervous 
 agitation he had shown whilst waiting for the bison 
 to break. 
 
 After dinner was over I sent for the head man of 
 the village, and told him our intention of setting 
 out very early the next morning after bears, and 
 we were agreeably surprised to find he had already 
 
 L
 
 162 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS, ETC. 
 
 prepared people who knew their haunts to accom- 
 pany us. 
 
 We assembled all our people in a circle, distri- 
 buted the usual allowance of grog and tobacco, and 
 afterwards heard all they had to say about the game 
 to be found in the country, and the most effective 
 manner of pursuing it. After I heard all their 
 opinions, I made up my mind to start an hour 
 before the first appearance of dawn for the hill 
 where the bears were said to be, which was about a 
 coss, or two miles, from the village, and to await 
 their returning to their caves ; as in this part of 
 the country, during the hot weather, bears roam 
 about the jungle in search of food all the night and 
 return to their caves in the morning, where they 
 remain during the intense heat of the day, issuing 
 forth again at sunset. They live chiefly upon the 
 wild fruits of the jungle and white ants, which 
 latter insect they devour in thousands, by scraping 
 a hole with their claws, and sucking them out of 
 their nests. They are also passionately fond of 
 honey, and show themselves wonderfully sharp in 
 finding out wild bees' nests, climbing lofty trees in 
 search of them.
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 BEAE-HUNTING, 
 
 We start for the Bear Hill. — The reconnaissance. — Bears afoot. 
 — Their strongholds invested. — A foraging party surprised. — 
 Two bears die. — Three more afoot. — Another couple yield 
 their spoils. — Desperate encounter with an enraged vixen, 
 who almost proved a Tartar. — " The Old Shekarry " in a fix 
 for a time, but wins the game at last. — The bag of the day. — 
 The return. 
 
 The next morning we are all up and equipped for 
 sport by 2 A.M., and, after a substantial feed, started 
 for the Bear Hill on foot, as the villagers said the 
 route was difficult for horses. 
 
 At this season of the year the night is not at any 
 time dark, and we managed to get along very well 
 in Indian file, although the path was very narrow, 
 and in some places we had to crawl along on our 
 hands and knees. We arrived at the foot of the 
 hill some time before sunrise, and here I halted the 
 party, which numbered about twenty coolies and 
 
 villagers, and telling B to prevent any of them 
 
 from straying, and to keep as quiet as possible, I 
 went forward to reconnoitre, accompanied by Goo-
 
 164 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 gooloo, the Mulliarry, and two villagers who knew 
 the bears' caves. 
 
 Although the hill was not more than 800 feet in 
 height it was very steep, and the ascent was the 
 more difficult on account of numberless rocky crags 
 which were entwined with thick bush. At last we 
 managed to climb up the dry bed of a watercourse, 
 in which we noticed the fresh traces of bears in 
 many places, and after a good deal of scrambling 
 and climbing up ledges of rock, we arrived at the 
 summit, which was a small table-land covered with 
 tufts of coarse grass and large boulders of rock. 
 
 As we were going along Googooloo suddenly 
 stopped, gave his usual grunt to attract attention, 
 and tapping me on the shoulder, pointed me out 
 two bears at the foot of the hill. With the aid of 
 my glass I could see they were very busily engaged 
 in digging up the earth ; so, setting the Mulliarry 
 to watch their movements, I went on to the caves, 
 and, after a careful examination, found seven en- 
 trances, five of which bore marks of being inhabited 
 by bears. 
 
 I sent one of the villagers and Googooloo to bring 
 up the rest of the party as quietly as possible, so as 
 not to disturb the game we knew was afoot, and by 
 the time they arrived, I and the other villagers had 
 managed to block up the two smallest entrances 
 (which did not seem to have been frequented of 
 late) with stones and pieces of rock. 
 
 I posted B on a rock which commanded the
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 165 
 
 two entrances of the largest cave, and D by 
 
 another. The other two I guarded by some of the 
 villagers wiio were armed with matclilocks, and I 
 despatched half-a-dozen others to different elevated 
 peaks, from which they could survey all the sur- 
 rounding country. 
 
 When all were in their places I went with Goo- 
 gooloo to the MuUiarry, who was watching the two 
 bears, and he pointed them out to me in the same 
 place we had first seen them. 
 
 Accompanied by Googooloo, carrying my second 
 gun, (an eight smooth-bore,) I stole down the hill 
 as gently as I could, making for a large rock which 
 appeared to me to be within a short distance of the 
 place where I had seen the bears. 
 
 I was some time before I could make my way to 
 it, as the bush and underwood were thick, and we 
 had to make our way through dense masses of en- 
 tangled creepers. At last we gained the rock, and 
 Googooloo's quick eye soon discovered our friends 
 still hard at work scraping up the earth of the ant- 
 hill. 
 
 We stole gently up, seeking the cover of rocks 
 and bushes, until I got within fifteen paces of them, 
 still undiscovered. Watching their movements until 
 I got a fair opportunity, I planted a rifle-ball be- 
 hind the shoulder of one, which rolled over and 
 over on the ground in the agonies of death, and 
 then gave the other the contents of my second 
 barrel, which took effect about the small ribs.
 
 166 The hunting grounds 
 
 tumbling her over for the moment. She, however, 
 soon got up again, raised herself on her haunches, 
 uttering a peculiarly melancholy cry, and looked 
 round in a most woe-begone manner. This posi- 
 tion oflFered me a splendid shot, and I finished her 
 career with a ball from my second gun. 
 
 Having ascertained that both were dead, Googoo- 
 loo climbed a large tree that was near, and fastened 
 the Mulliarry's turban-cloth, like a streamer, to one 
 of the highest branches, in order to serve as a land- 
 mark for the coolies when they came to collect the 
 game. He also cut off a claw from the right fore- 
 paw of each bear, so as to mark it as mine, a pre- 
 caution the gang always took, in consequence of an 
 individual having obtained a deer which I had un- 
 doubtedly shot at a battue some time previously, 
 and, to the intense disgust of all my people, allowed 
 him to appropriate and carry off. 
 
 As we were leisurely returning up the water- 
 course towards the caves where B and D 
 
 were posted, I heard a rolling of stones and a 
 curious grunting noise close behind us. I jumped 
 on a large boulder of rock, and saw three bears 
 making their way slowly up the watercourse in the 
 same direction we were going. I immediately made 
 signs to Googooloo and the Mulliarry to hide, and I 
 crouched behind the rock until they were past, as I 
 wished my friends to get a shot, and they were 
 evidently bound their way. 
 
 These three had hardly passed when Googooloo
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 1 G7 
 
 pointed me out two others making their way up the 
 hill by the same route. Standing behind a rock so 
 as not to alarm them, I let drive right and left as 
 they passed within a few paces of me. • They were 
 both badly hit behind the shoulder, and each must 
 have imagined the other was the cause of his injury, 
 for with a ferocious noise they immediately attacked 
 each other, and closing in a hug, rolled down the 
 hill some short distance. I followed with my 
 second gun, and found one dead and the other 
 leaning over him in a very deplorable condition. He 
 was too far gone to take any notice of my approach, 
 although he continued to make a fearful moaning, 
 which I put a stop to by giving him a quietus in 
 the shape of a pill behind the ear, which finished 
 his career. 
 
 I had just commenced reloading, when I heard a 
 loud straggling volley from the top of the hill where 
 my friends were posted, and almost immediately it 
 was followed by a shriek from the Mulliarry, whom 
 I saw make a spring into the jungle just in time to 
 avoid the charge of a huge female bear who came 
 rushing down the watercourse in a most ferocious 
 manner. I was directly in her path, and with a 
 roar she made right at me ; I let drive at her head 
 with my only barrel that had not been discharged, 
 but it failed to stop her, and she had knocked me 
 down and w^as on me in the twinkling of an eye. 
 
 The slope of the hill was steep, and we both of 
 us rolled over and over several times ; I was almost
 
 1(58 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 breathless, when Googooloo rushed on her with his 
 bill-hook and endeavoured to attract her attention. 
 Luckily she could not bite at all, as my shot had 
 smashed her snout and lower jaw to pieces ; but 
 she kept me locked in her embrace, and squeezed 
 me more roughly than aflfectionately. 
 
 My head was well protected with a bison-skin 
 cap ; and getting a tight grasp of her fur on each 
 side, with my arms underneath hers, so that she 
 could not do me much injury with her claws, I 
 regularly wrestled with her for some time ; and 
 although I brought my science to play, and threw 
 her on her back several times " by giving her the 
 leg," she never let go her hug, and I was almost 
 suffocated with the quantity of blood and froth that 
 came from her wound and covered my face, beard, 
 and chest, 
 
 Googooloo made frantic hits at her from time to 
 time with his bill-hook, (the only weapon he had, 
 
 having lent T> his knife,) but I ordered him to 
 
 desist, as his blows did not appear to do the bear 
 much harm, and I was afraid of catching one. At 
 last Bruin appeared to be getting weaker, and I saw 
 her wounds and loss of blood were telling; and 
 after a little trouble I managed to draw my knife, 
 and drove it up to the hilt in her body under the 
 armpits. She gave me an ugly hug, and fell over 
 on her side, pulling me with her. It was her last 
 efifort, and I picked myself up quite out of puff, but 
 not much injured, having only received a slight
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 169 
 
 claw on the loins and another ratlier more severe 
 on the instep. I drew my pistol, which I could 
 not manage to get at before, to give her a settler, 
 but it was not required — the game was over, my 
 antagonist was dead. 
 
 Being covered with blood and dust from head to 
 foot, I must have presented a comical appearance 
 
 to B and D , who came rushing down in 
 
 pursuit of the bear, which D had slightly 
 
 wounded before she fell in with me. They had 
 met the Mulliarry en route, who said that he had 
 seen me killed ; and no sooner did Googooloo get 
 sight of this individual, than he sprang on him like 
 a tiger for his cowardice in running away, and we 
 had some difficulty to prevent him from strangling 
 him and in releasing him from his clutches. 
 
 One of the coolies brought me the water-skin, 
 and I washed the blood away from my person and 
 threw off a part of my soiled clothes. I then tore 
 off a part of my shirt and bandaged up my loins 
 and foot, which latter bled considerably, and was 
 very painful when I walked, as the claws had pene- 
 trated gaiter, boot, and stocking, entering the flesh 
 to the depth of half an inch. Having arranged 
 matters as I best could, I managed to scramble up 
 the hill, though I had some difiiculty in doing so, 
 as the back of my head and my arms, shoulders, 
 and knees were considerably bruised ; and I felt 
 rather shaken and tired after my encounter. 
 
 When I arrived at the caves I found B had
 
 170 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 killed the two bears, and D had caught a 
 
 young one alive. We remained there about half an 
 hour longer, when another female and two half- 
 grown cubs came rolling along, all of whom bit the 
 
 dust before our united volley. D also went 
 
 after two others which were seen coming up the 
 hill, but were deterred from coming near the caves, 
 having taken alarm at the firing. He killed one 
 and severely wounded the other, but somehow or 
 another managed to lose it. 
 
 The sun had now risen high above the horizon ; 
 the breeze had died away, and not a breath of air 
 was stirring ; a mirage was seen spread over the 
 plain, out of which the wooded hills rose like dis- 
 tant islands. The sultriness was getting more and 
 more oppressive, and it was piping hot before our 
 coolies had managed to collect the game at the foot 
 of the hill, which consisted of four male bears, five 
 females, two half-grown cubs, and a very young one 
 caught alive. 
 
 A number of village people, hearing of our sport, 
 came to carry the game in ; and my servant 
 thoughtfully brought my pony, which I was glad 
 of, as my foot gave me considerable pain. 
 
 I superintended the preparation of the skins, (as 
 my own man who usually did that kind of work 
 was with the gang at Bowani,) by seeing them 
 stretched tightly and pegged down on the ground, 
 exposed to the heat of the sun, whilst wood-ashes,
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 171 
 
 cocoa-nut oil, hulde, (turmeric,) and arsenical soap 
 were rubbed in. 
 
 Finding myself rather stiff and sore from my 
 bruises, I mounted my pony "Gooty" and rode 
 back to our bungalow at the top of the Sheveroy 
 Hill, where I arrived late in the evening, leaving 
 
 B and D to continue their sport with the 
 
 bears a few days longer, whilst I had my foot 
 looked at by the doctor, and got fit for work 
 asain.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 BOWANI. 
 
 Sankerrydroog. — An adventure with hyenas. — Eowani. — Alliga- 
 tor-fishing.— We start for Andior.— " Gooty," my shooting 
 pony : his pedigree and achievements. — Small-game shooting. 
 — Antelope stalking. — Andior. — The monkeys and the Brah- 
 mins. — Murrel-fishing. 
 
 A FEW days after our encounter with the bears, I 
 
 received a note from B telling me that he had 
 
 heard of rare sport near Bowani, and begging me to 
 join him at the public bungalow at Sankerrydroog, 
 which is two marches from Salem, and about half- 
 way between that place and Bowani. As the wound 
 in my foot was not quite healed I borrowed a palan- 
 quin from the collector, and starting the next even- 
 ing at 4, arrived at Sankerrydroog at 6 a.m., dis- 
 tance thirty-five miles, having stopped a couple of 
 hours for refreshments at M'Donald's choultry. 
 
 I found that the trophies of two bears and a fine 
 buck spotted-deer had been taken during my ab- 
 sence, and B informed me that a large cheeta 
 
 had been seen prowling about the old hill-fort for
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 173 
 
 some days previous, and that at last, after some 
 trouble, it had been tracked (the evening before) by 
 some of the villagers to a cave, half-way up the hill, 
 and large stones had been placed at the entrance, so 
 as to prevent its coming out. 
 
 After breakfast we began to ascend the hill, B 
 
 and D on foot, armed with rifles, and I mounted 
 
 on my favourite little nag " Gooty," with a boar- 
 spear and my famous dogs "Ali" and "Hassan," 
 which were half Poligar, half bloodhound. We soon 
 came to the entrance of the cave, which was about 
 four feet in diameter, and, after a fruitless examin- 
 ation for pugs and trails, some of the villagers who 
 were with us pulled down the stones built up at the 
 
 mouth, and D , B , and a massauljee with a 
 
 couple of lighted torches entered, but were almost 
 immediately obliged to return on account of the foul 
 air and stench within. We then placed a bundle of 
 straw inside, and set fire to it, hoping to drive the 
 brute out with the smoke, but no good result was 
 obtained, although B thought he heard a moan- 
 ing kind of noise inside. We also fired off several 
 rockets and crackers, which had the effect of dis- 
 lodging some of the inhabitants, for hundreds of 
 curious little four-eared bats came out. 
 
 Finding that none of these annoyances would 
 bring out the cheeta, I sent in my two dogs, and 
 immediately knew that game was a-foot, as Ali gave 
 tongue the moment he entered, and very shortly 
 afterwards dismal howls and stransre rumbling noises
 
 174< THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 were heard issuing from the bowels of the earth, and 
 I began to be alarmed for the dogs, when suddenly 
 
 I heard a row, and saw my poor friend D (who 
 
 in spite of my remonstrances would stand right in 
 front of the mouth of the cave) knocked over on the 
 broad of his back by a huge male hyena, whilst in 
 the twinkling of an eye the female, a couple of cubs, 
 and my two dogs passed over him as he lay almost 
 helpless on the ground, and made the best of their 
 way down the hUl and across some cultivated fields ; 
 
 B let drive a couple of shots as they passed, and 
 
 doubled up the female, and I descended the hill as 
 well as I could, and after a burst of a few minutes, 
 Gooty brought me alongside of the male, who was 
 vainly struggling to get away from my two dogs, 
 one of whom had hold of him by the ear, and the 
 other on the opposite side by the throat. As I did 
 not wish to run the chance of having either of them 
 mauled or bitten, I drove my spear home between 
 the shoulders, and finished the game, after which I 
 
 went to look after poor D , whom I found much 
 
 shaken with the fall, his chin and throat being con- 
 siderably damaged by the claws of the brutes as they 
 passed over him. 
 
 We returned to the bungalow, convinced that the 
 villagers had mistaken the hyena for a cheeta ; and 
 
 after D had washed, and plastered up his face, 
 
 we all three got into my bullock-cart, and arrived 
 at Bowani soon after sunset, where we found Mother 
 Garrow and her dusky train of dancing nymphs
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 175 
 
 from the Pagoda awaiting our arrival at the public 
 bungalow, which is very pleasantly situated on the 
 ruins of an old fort, which, with a large and rather 
 celebrated pagoda dedicated to the worship of the 
 Goddess Bowani, (the deity of the Thugs,) is built at 
 the sungum or conflux of the rivers Cauvery and 
 Bowani. 
 
 Chineah and the gang were delighted with the 
 place, and described the Andior and Samungalum 
 jungle as being alive with game of all kinds. 
 
 The next morning we strolled along the banks of 
 the river with our rifles, as Chineah had seen several 
 alligators basking in the sun on a sandbank the day 
 before ; and although we saw plenty of marks of 
 their huge claws imprinted in the sand near the edge 
 of the water, none were to be seen. 
 
 In spite of Dr Johnson's reflections on anglers, I 
 determined to try a piscatorial experiment, so I re- 
 turned to the village, and got the " lobar " (black- 
 smith) to forge two large barbed hooks on the ends 
 of a couple of strong English dog-chains, which I 
 made fast to the storm-ropes of my tent, attaching 
 large logs of very light mangoe-wood as floats. I 
 then got a village " chucklar," (shoemaker,) a Pariah 
 of the lowest caste, to accompany me with a couple 
 of young pigs, and my servant brought a quantity of 
 raw mutton to serve as bait. Having made all my 
 arrangements, I returned to the spot where I had 
 left B and D , couched behind bushes wait- 
 ing for the chance of a shot, and explained my in-
 
 176 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 tentions ; then passing the ropes over the forks of 
 trees, so as to give me additional purchase, I baited 
 my hooks and flung them into the river. The 
 " chucklar" soon caught up my idea, and by chew- 
 ing the end of the pigs' tails he elicited the most 
 melodious music, which soon had the desired effect, 
 and attracted the alligators to that part of the river. 
 I threw several pieces of mutton into the stream, 
 and in a very short time there were upwards of a 
 dozen of these immense brutes splashing about and 
 scrambling with each other for the meat. 
 
 At last one of my floats gave a bob, (it was more 
 than a nibble,) and then disappeared under water. 
 My gang and a number of villagers seized the rope, 
 and with some difficulty we hauled the brute to the 
 bank of the river, when he began rolling about in 
 the sand, trying to disgorge the bait, and knocking 
 about with his tail, so that I began to be afraid he 
 would cut the rope and escape, 
 
 I ran down with my rifle, and with some difiSi- 
 culty slipped a bowline knot over his head, and in 
 a few moments the gang had fastened up his mouth 
 with a roll of strong cord, and doubled his legs over 
 his back, and in this manner he was dragged along 
 in triumph. 
 
 In less than two hours we had caught four more, 
 the largest being a little over eleven feet in length. 
 We afterwards let them loose on the plain, and, 
 mounting our horses, killed them with our boar- 
 spears, which entered the throat behind the shoulders
 
 OF THE OLD WOULD. ]77 
 
 and the under parts of the body easily enougli ; 
 and we found that a hardened rifle-ball would 
 enter any part of the back or head, which have 
 been stated to be shot-proof by some writers. In 
 the eveniiifi: we had another nautch, which was 
 prolonged until the " short hours/' when we distri- 
 buted our " largess " to the votaries of Terpsichore 
 and turned in. 
 
 On the morrow we started for Andior en route 
 for Combie Jungles, and as the distance was not 
 much over twelve miles, and small game was said 
 to be abundant, we determined to shoot our way, 
 having our horses following in case any of us being 
 tired. 
 
 My little nag " Gooty " was a thoroughly broken 
 shooting-pony, and, although the Earian system had 
 not then come out, a perfect understanding existed 
 between us : he would come at my call or whistle ; 
 stand perfectly quiet when ordered ; allow me to fire 
 from between his ears, without flinching ; would take 
 the water like a duck ; was famous in a scrambhi 
 across country ; had no fear, and could almost do 
 everything but speak. He came into my hands in 
 a strange way ; I was encamped outside the village 
 of Nandeir, being en route from Hydrabad to See- 
 tabuldee, and tired and overcome with lassitude, 
 having ridden from Mudnoor, a distance of fifty- 
 two miles, in the heat of the day ; I was lounging 
 on a carpet stretched in front of my tent, enjoying 
 the soothing fragrance of my hookah, and amusing 
 
 M
 
 178 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 myself with talking to some handsome Mussiil- 
 mauni damsels who constantly passed to and fro^ 
 as they went to draw water from a ghaut on the 
 Godavery river, when a venerable-looking old man 
 with a huge silver beard rolling down his chest, 
 and clad in a fakeer's or dervish's garb, came up 
 leading a chestnut mare, and accosting me with the 
 usual salutation, begged " Aallah ka nam se " (in 
 the name of Allah) that I would assist him. He 
 evidently took me to be one of the " Faithful," 
 for besides speaking the language fluently, I wore 
 a native dress, consisting of a muslin ungreka, 
 embroidered silk long-drawers and turban, and 
 my naturally dark complexion was considerably 
 deepened by constant exposure to the sun. He 
 told me that he had given up the world, i.e., his 
 wives and family, and had devoted the remainder 
 of his days to the service of Mohammed, but that 
 lately " dark clouds had been hanging over' the 
 garden of his fate, and the hlossoms of hope were 
 almost withered." He was en route from Bore- 
 gaum on the Wurdah river to Hydrabad, in order 
 to be present at the Mohrum festival in that famous 
 Mussulman capital, but he had been detained by 
 illness on the road, his cash was nearly gone, and 
 moreover, the back of his mare, which had been 
 presented to him by the Oomraootee Nawab, on 
 the occasion of his son's recovery from illness, was 
 so galled that he could not ride her, and did not 
 know how to proceed on his journey.
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 179 
 
 His mare was a blood-looking little creature of 
 the Mahratta caste, with a running sore on her 
 withers nearly the size of the palm of my hand ; 
 and although at the time I thought the wound was 
 incurable, and she would never again be fit for 
 work, I offered ten rupees for her, which the old 
 man very gladly accepted. I had an old Arab syce 
 who was famous for his knowledge of herbs, and 
 under his care she got rapidly well, doing me good 
 service for several years. " Gooty " was one of her 
 progency by "Chunda lal," (the Eed Moon,) formerly 
 the property of the late celebrated Dewan of the 
 Deckan, of that name, a magnificent chestnut Arab 
 of remarkably pure caste, well known in the Nizam's 
 dominions as the winner of the great Moul Alii 
 steeple-chase. 
 
 Gooty proved a " chip of the old block," and 
 commenced his career by carrying off the pony 
 races, Galloway stakes, and hurdle-race (weight 
 for inches) at Hydrabad, under the name of the 
 
 " Red Rover," afterwards beating General "W 's 
 
 celebrated black pony " D. I. 0." in two matches, 
 and distinguishing himself at Bellary and Banga- 
 lore, where he put a good many gold mohurs in 
 the pocket of his master, ever proving a thorough 
 good ou?. His greatest achievement was, how- 
 ever, performed at Gooty (which name he has 
 since borne,) where he carried his master safely 
 up the steep rocky scarp of that celebrated hill- 
 fort to the round-house on the extreme summit,
 
 180 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 and down again ; a feat wliicli, althougli it has 
 often been attempted, was never accomplished in 
 the memory of the oldest inhabitant, or of the old 
 Nawab who had been confined there as a state- 
 prisoner for upwards of five-and-twenty years. A 
 gallant officer of the 4Stli had a brass plate fixed on 
 a rock about half way up, to commemorate his hav- 
 ing ridden a horse named " Firefly " up to that point. 
 " Gooty," although he measured barely thirteen 
 hands two inches, was famous in diflicult country, 
 and would follow a boar con amove, doubling like 
 a greyhound after a hare. " 3Iais revenons a nos 
 moutons." We passed through a good deal of low 
 brush jungle and rumnah grass, alive with small 
 game ; for in less than four hours we were satiated 
 with our sport, having killed three couj)le and a 
 half of " fiorikin," (or lesser bustard,) the finest bird 
 for the table in India, thirteen leash of hares, nine 
 brace of gray partridge, and three of gray quail; and 
 as the sun's rays were burning intensely powerful, 
 and our beaters began to show unmistakable signs 
 of distress, we adjourned to the shade of a widely- 
 spreading peepul-tree, and were enjoying our "kieff," 
 (a Turkish word signifying a state of dreamy exist- 
 ence, when the body is motionless, all the senses 
 are at rest, and the mind dormant,) and discussing 
 cheroots and brandy-panee, when a villager who 
 was passing by informed us that he had just seen 
 a large herd of antelope on a " maidaun " or plain 
 about two miles further on.
 
 OF THE OLD WOULD. 181 
 
 We loaded our rifles, and after a few minutes' 
 canter arrived at the plaee indicated, wliere we saw 
 a lierd consisting of about sixty does and seven or 
 eight bucks, which were easily distinguishable, on 
 account of their long spiral horns and much darker 
 colour. They caught sight of us almost immediately, 
 and our sudden appearance caused some consterna- 
 tion ; for the does collected in a body behind the 
 bucks, who stood as if on sentry, carefully watching 
 our movements, although we were at least six hun- 
 dred yards distant. I saw at once that they were very 
 wild, and that the utmost caution would be neces- 
 sary in stalking so as to get within shot : we there- 
 fore rode slowly away, until I could see by my field- 
 glass that they had ceased to take any notice of us. 
 
 I then directed B and D where to take 
 
 post under cover of some bushes, whilst I under- 
 took to stalk the leader, a fine black buck with a 
 beautiful pair of antlers, and to draw the herd if 
 possible towards their ambuscade. I divested my- 
 self of my white pith hunting-cap, substituting a 
 head-dress formed of creepers, and cutting a number 
 of pliable twigs I interwove them into a kind of 
 basketwork screen, in which I fastened green 
 boughs, so as to make it resemble a bush as much 
 as possible, leaving an opening through which I could 
 point my rifle. When this was completed I sallied 
 forth, taking care to get to leeward, and seeking 
 any cover I could find, either behind bushes or from 
 any slight undulations of the ground, until I got to
 
 1S2 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 within five hundred yards of the herd, who were 
 quietly browsing, unconscious of danger. 
 
 Here I lay for some time at full length on the 
 ground behind my screen so as to give my com- 
 panions time to get posted, and taking out my tele- 
 scope I surveyed the herd for some time before I 
 could make out the position of the leader, whom at 
 last I twigged lying down and chewing the cud, 
 under the shade of a bauble-bush, some short dis- 
 tance from the others. I stole gently forwards, 
 sometimes stooping and walking, and at others 
 creeping on my hands and knees, (which is ex- 
 tremely laborious work,) until I got within two 
 hundred yards of him, when, feeling out of breath 
 and rather unsteady, I rested for some time. As 
 soon as I had recovered my breath, I slowly com- 
 menced my onward progress until I got within a 
 hundred and twenty yards, when, from the motion 
 of the herd, I saw that my walking bush had ex- 
 cited some suspicion, for they began to close up, 
 and crane their necks in my direction ; which 
 movement was immediately perceived and under- 
 stood by their leader, who sprang on his feet, 
 stamped, and advanced some five or six paces to- 
 wards me, snuffing the air as if to reconnoitre. 
 This position offered me a fair shot — I raised my 
 rifle and pulled the trigger just as a low bark escaped 
 him, (the signal of alarm to the herd.) It was his 
 last warning, for my grooved-bore was true — the 
 bullet sped, and entered his heart ; he sprang high
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. IS^ 
 
 into the air and fell dead. I fired my second barrel 
 at the herd, which was in full retreat, bringing 
 down a doe, my ball entering the small ribs near 
 the spine, and paralysing her hind-quarters ; and, 
 after drawing my knife across her throat, I jumped 
 on Gooty, who was brouglit up by my syce, and 
 followed the herd, driving it towards the spot where 
 
 B and D were posted. Both got shots. 
 
 B rolled over a young buck at a long distance ; 
 
 and D bagged a doe, missing two other fair 
 
 shots. 
 
 We collected the game, tied it np in front of our 
 saddles, and then made the best of our way towards 
 Andior, where we found our tents pitched under 
 the shade of a beautiful mangoe tope, in front of 
 which was a large square tank, full of water-lilies, 
 and an old dilapidated pagoda, on the walls of 
 which some scores of the common green-tufted 
 monkey sat grinning, jabbering, and making mouths 
 at ns as we passed, 
 
 A curious tale is told of a detachment of the 
 — th Native Infantry having made a colony of these 
 monkeys revenge an insult which was offered them 
 by the inhabitants of Trippasore, the greater part 
 of whom consist of Brahmins. It appears that the 
 military were en route to the Presidency, escorting 
 treasure, and the Bunnias, or grain-sellers, raised 
 the price of rice very considerably the day before 
 they passed through their town, which conduct 
 aroused Jack Sepoy's indignation, who, however.
 
 184 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS, ETC. 
 
 smothered his resentment until his return from 
 Madras, when each man filled his haversack with 
 rice and dhal, (a kind of sweet bean,) and on re- 
 passing through the town he threw it on the roots 
 of all the tiled houses, on which lived hundreds of 
 monkeys, occasioning a most ludicrous scene — for 
 immediately the tiles were seen flying in clouds 
 into the streets, until the greater part of the town 
 was imroofed ; for the monkeys, finding the grains 
 slip under the tiles, Kfted them up, and threw them 
 into the street, and as they took one up the rice 
 slipped under the next, and so on, until a good 
 roof was demolished in a few minutes, to the utter 
 disgust and mortification of the Brahmins, who dare 
 not molest the monkeys, considering these animals 
 sacred, as being the incarnation of their powerful 
 god, Hanimann. 
 
 After we had imbibed some cooled Bass, the best 
 
 beverage for India, B , who was a fisherman, 
 
 went down to the tank with his rod, and in the 
 course of half an hour landed over a dozen fine 
 murrel, (a voracious kind of fish, somewhat resem- 
 bling the jack,) from four to eight pounds in weight. 
 On cutting them open we found the inside full of 
 leeches, so we declined having them put upon our 
 table, to the great satisfaction of Chineah and the 
 gang, who pronounced them delicious.
 
 CHAPTER XIIL 
 
 THE COMBEI JUNGLE. 
 
 Early rising. — " Tiger's milk." — A sloth-bear started. — Combei. 
 — Our encampment. — A salt-lick. — Great bag of deer by 
 night. — Ding-ding. — A strange rencontre whilst pea- fowl 
 
 stalking. — Leg-bail. — The death of the tiger. — B 's sport. 
 
 — A glorious chase. — The bull-nilgbau. — The bag. — A black 
 panther. — Strange mode of catching deer. — Return to Bowani. 
 — Finale. 
 
 Getting up early in the morning, after a hard fag 
 the day previous, is at all times a painful operation, 
 more especially during the intensely sultry weather 
 preceding the downfall of the monsoon in India ; 
 when sleep, balmy sleep, is banished from the couch 
 of the weary one, and he tosses and rolls about, 
 feverish and restless, in an irritable state of mind, 
 with aching bones, overcome with lassitude and 
 fatigue, the whole night long, unable to obtain 
 even a doze until the cool refreshing breeze of .the 
 morning sets in, when to be awoke suddenly is 
 indeed a martyrdom, and to arouse a man without a 
 cause at such a time is to render him unaccountable 
 for his actions.
 
 186 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 My servant, "Five Minutes," upon whom tlie 
 task of getting us up in the morning usually de- 
 volved, was well aware that at this period " sahib- 
 log" (masters) are somewhat in the same humour 
 as " bears with sore heads ; " for many a boot, 
 candlestick, and empty soda-water bottle had he 
 dodged in his time whilst attempting to rouse some 
 heavy sleeping " sub " for parade after a public 
 night at mess ; and, being a wide-awake nigger, he 
 now never exposed himself in this somewhat peril- 
 ous undertaking without having first provided him- 
 self with some emollient and resuscitating mixture 
 calculated to better the human feelings, such as 
 well-cooled claret-cup, soda and brandy, or " tiger's 
 milk," which served better than any " soft words," 
 the nigger knew, "to allay wrath." As the latter 
 concoction was considered the most effective, I give 
 the recipe ; and if ladies with surly husbands 
 would only try " Five Minutes's " dodge, of admin- 
 istering a dose of " tiger's milk " before they asked 
 for " the needful " to settle the little account of 
 crinoline, &c., they would find it acted upon the 
 milk of human kindness far better than all the 
 wheedling and soft sawder which husbands (too 
 soon, alas !) get accustomed to. Eecipe — Beat up 
 the yolks of three eggs well with half a pint of 
 brandy, a wine-glass of sugar, a bit of lemon-peel 
 cut thin, and a dozen cloves and cardamums ; add 
 a quart of new milk, mix well, grate in the third of 
 a nutmeg, and serve it in a tankard, of which the
 
 or THE OLD WORLD. 1 87 
 
 bottom should be seen before it is removed from the 
 lips. 
 
 When " Five Minutes " thought his master was 
 tired overnight, and would be reluctant to move in 
 the morning, he would carefully prepare a bowl of 
 this insinuating mixture, and, creeping with noise- 
 less steps to the head of the bed, would there 
 remain, bowl in hand, whilst the " cochra," or dress- 
 ing-boy, turned up the coverlid, put on the uncon- 
 scious sleeper's socks and boots, and shampooed his 
 limbs until he awoke, when, as soon as he began to 
 rub his eyes, the soothing draught was applied ; 
 and its kindly effects would almost immediately 
 demonstrate themselves, for he would allow himself 
 to be dressed " like a good child," and after a che- 
 root was as mild as new milk. 
 
 Antelope-stalking the day before had somewhat 
 knocked me up, and I felt rather stiff on first 
 rising ; but after my matin cup, a plunge in the 
 tank of the pagoda, and a few whiffs of the 
 "fragrant narcotic weed," the lassitude wore off, 
 and we all three mounted our nags and started 
 for Combei, distant from Andior fourteen miles, 
 where we intended to sojourn for a few days, as 
 a herd of bison was said to be in the neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 As we rode along, D twigged a female sloth- 
 bear climbing leisurely up the side of a rocky hill ; 
 so slipping the two Poligar dogs, Ali and Hassan, 
 we gave chase with our boar-spears, but the old
 
 1S8 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 vixen was close to her cave, and gave us the slip, 
 to D 's intense disgust. 
 
 On arrival at Combei, which we found to be a 
 small deserted viHage, abandoned by its original 
 inhabitants on account of fever, and occupied only 
 by four families of the Mulcher caste, (a jungle 
 tribe,) things did not appear very promising, so we 
 pitched our camj) under a large peepul-tree by a 
 beautifully clear stream full of fish. 
 
 When all was arranged to our satisfaction, we 
 strolled out in different directions to look out for 
 
 bison. D and B came across fresh trails, 
 
 but returned immediately, as it was too late to 
 follow them up. I was not so fortunate, although 
 I killed a young spotted-deer, and found, out a salt- 
 lick, where there were innumerable fresh marks of 
 elk, spotted-deer, jungle-sheep, and some old ones 
 of bison. These animals come for miles round 
 about to eat the earth which they find here and 
 there in the jungle, strongly impregnated with salt, 
 of which they are extremely fond. 
 
 At dinner I mentioned the salt-lick I had dis- 
 covered, and, as it was not more than half a mile 
 from our tents, we resolved to try the Burmese 
 experiment of shooting deer by aid of an artificial 
 light, as the moon did not favour us. Accordingly, 
 Chineah made a lamp with pieces of rag, and a 
 quantity of fat, oil, and tar, which he got from the 
 cook, and fastened it to a bamboo pole about fif- 
 teen feet in height ; then, providing ourselves with
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. ] 89 
 
 several guns, a carpet, brandy-panee, &c., wo went 
 to the salt-lick, a little before dusk, and, Laving 
 erected a kind of screen with bushes and branches, 
 comfortably established ourselves in front and to 
 leeward of an open space of ground, which w^as 
 covered with the footprints of different kinds of 
 deer. Our pole w^as planted in the ground some 
 half dozen paces in front, and when it got dark the 
 lamp was lighted, and a piece of bright tin (the lid 
 of a cowrie-box) placed behind, to serve as a re- 
 flector, and also to prevent the light from revealing 
 our ambuscade. 
 
 We waited for nearly an hour without hearing or 
 seeing anything, when suddenly I thought I saw a 
 pair of bright eyes shining like stars from the thicket 
 in front of the light, and in a moment a low bark 
 informed me that my plan had succeeded, and that 
 a buck-elk was at hand. I whispered to the others 
 not to fire until I gave the signal — for I knew, from 
 the cry of the buck, that the herd was at hand ; and 
 in a few moments he stepped forward, barking, 
 stamping his hoofs, scratching his back with his 
 antlers, and staring at the light ; and almost imme- 
 diately he was followed by the rest of the herd, 
 which must have numbered nearly twenty. The 
 light engrossed all their attention, and they came 
 to within a dozen paces of it before I gave the 
 
 signal to fire by a low " Coo." B , D , Chi- 
 
 neah, and myself let drive double shots, and our 
 volley threw tlic herd into such confusion that some
 
 190 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 of US had time to make use of second guns before 
 those that were unwounded could get away. 
 
 When the smoke had cleared, we found five dead, 
 and four others wounded, which we despatched. 
 
 Both B and myself felt that it was a poaching 
 
 kind of game, so we did not care to continue it, and 
 returned to the tent ; but D and Chineah re- 
 mained in the ambuscade all night, and managed to 
 bag another buck-elk and four spotted-deer, besides 
 which the gang, with the dogs' assistance, next 
 morning brought in five other deer, which they 
 found dead or wounded some distance off in the 
 jungle. The game proved very acceptable to the 
 Mulcher tribes who roam about these jungles ; and 
 the gang jerked a considerable quantity of venison, 
 or rather converted it into what they term " Ding- 
 ding," by cutting the meat into long strips, which 
 they rub with salt, ground spices, and dry in the 
 sun, until it becomes as hard as a board. When 
 required for use, it is allowed to soak in water for a 
 couple of hours to soften, and is then broiled over 
 embers, when it is not at all unpalatable, and often 
 constitutes the principal part of a Shekarry's fare 
 whilst on trail. 
 
 During the next three days, although we con- 
 stantly made long excursions into the jungle, we 
 were very unsuccessful in meeting with large game, 
 only killing a few deer for food. One evening, as I 
 was returning towards the tent after a long weary 
 fag, during which I had not pulled trigger, Chineah
 
 OF TIIK OLD WOKLD. 191 
 
 and one or two of tlie gang who were with rae asked 
 me to shoot a peacock for tlieui tliat was screaming 
 in a thicket close by, I bid them remain perfectly 
 quiet where they were, whilst I followed it up, guided 
 by the cry, and at last I got so near that I could 
 hear the old birds scratching up the ground, and the 
 young ones chirping or rather whistling ; but the 
 underwood was so dense that I could not get sight 
 of them, although they must have been within a few 
 paces from me. I clambered down the dry sandy 
 bed of a nullah, and was peering between the trees 
 in the expectation of getting a glimpse of the brood, 
 when, turning stealthily round a large jummona- 
 bush, (a kind of willow,) I suddenly came face to 
 face upon an immense tiger, who had evidently been 
 taking his " siesta " under the cool shade of the 
 shelving bank, for when I first caught sight of him 
 he was stretching himself and yawning as if only 
 just awake. Doubtless it was a mutual surprise, 
 but I was the first to recover my self-possession, for 
 without a moment's hesitation I swung round, and 
 notwithstanding we were barely six feet apart, and 
 my gun (a double eight-guage by Westley Eichards) 
 was only loaded with No. 4 shot, I let drive right 
 and left full into his face. Before the smoke cleared 
 away, the tiger, uttering an appalling shriek of rage, 
 sprang clear over my head, and fell with a crash 
 against the opposite bank: whilst I, without waiting 
 to watch his further movements, jjave "leff bail," and 
 ran in a contrary direction down the nullah. Find-
 
 192 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 ing tliat I was not pursued, I reloaded with ball, 
 and " Eichard was himself again," for I must own 
 my serenity of mind was somewhat disturbed at such 
 an unlooked-for rencontre, Chineah, attracted by 
 the double report, now came up, and, having taken 
 my pet rifle from him, I slung the smooth-bore over 
 my shoulder, directed him to remain quiet in a tree, 
 and again made my way to the scene of action. I 
 soon came across the tiger's pugs, and followed them 
 up to a pool of water where there were marks of his 
 having quenched his thirst a few moments before. 
 
 The double charge of shot I administered at such 
 close quarters had evidently taken effect, for the 
 trail was marked with large crimson drops, and I 
 knew that his sight was partially if not entirely de- 
 stroyed, as from time to time he had struck his head 
 ao"ainst the steep banks on each side of the nullah, 
 leaving large gouts of blood behind him. In a few 
 minutes I heard sundry strange noises in a patch of 
 reeds and corinda-bushes by the side of the nullah, 
 and from the " swearing " of a troop of monkeys in 
 the trees overhead on each bank I knew what to 
 expect. I clambered up a boulder of rock, from 
 whence I could see the tiger going round and round 
 evidently quite blind, for every now and then he 
 knocked his head against stones and bushes, when 
 he would give a short angry roar, tear up the ground, 
 and bite at everything within his reach. I saw at 
 a glance how matters were, so stealing gently up I 
 aimed just behind the shoulder, and the ball passing
 
 OP THE OLD WORLD. 193 
 
 through the heart immediately put him out of his 
 misery, for he sprang high into the air and dropped 
 stone dead. On examination I found the whole of 
 the upper part of the face was blown to pieces, and 
 both eyes destroyed with the effect of my first shots ; 
 indeed, the head was a mass of congealed blood, 
 none of the features being distinguishable ; however, 
 such is the tenacity of life in tlie feline race, that he 
 managed even in this condition to make his way for 
 upwards of half a mile, although totally blind. 
 
 A whistle brought up my followers, and we imme- 
 diately commenced denuding the tiger of his spoils, 
 in which operation we were overtaken by darkness, 
 but by lighting a huge fire we managed to accom- 
 plish our purpose, and afterwards made the best of 
 
 our way to the tents, where I found B and 
 
 D deeply interested in exploring the interior of 
 
 a huge marrow-pie, the former having that mornini,' 
 killed a fine nilghau within a few hundred paces of 
 our encampment. After dinner we superintended 
 the pegging down of the skins, and retired early to 
 rest, as the Mulchers had tracked up the herd of 
 nilghau, and we determined if possible to drive them 
 into the more open country on the morrow, and ride 
 them down with our boar-spcars. 
 
 I sounded the "reveille" through the camp an 
 hour before dawn, and after having fortified the 
 " inner man " and partaken of a " stirrup cup," we 
 lighted our cheerots, mounted our nags, and under 
 the guidance of the Mulchers set out for the cover in 
 
 N
 
 194 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 which the game had been marked. It was a glori- 
 ous morning, and we were all in the best of spirits. 
 As we rode along, accompanied by the gang and 
 the greater part of our followers, who were to act 
 as beaters, every now and then we put up coveys of 
 quail, partridge, or rock-pigeon, and once or twice 
 we caught sight of troops of antelope and spotted- 
 deer bounding through the more open jungle. After 
 a cursory survey of the country, which was anything 
 but fair riding-ground, being covered with low scrub 
 jungle and intersected with innumerable nullahs and 
 gullies, we took our post some little distance from 
 each other, whilst our people extended themselves 
 in a large semicircle, and advanced slowly, shouting 
 and beating tom-toms. In the course of a few min- 
 utes a tremendous yell informed us that the game 
 was afoot, a crashing of underwood was heard, and 
 a herd of nine nOghau, consisting of two bulls and 
 seven cows, broke into the plain. 
 
 We immediately laid the dogs into them, and, 
 after a smart burst of about a mile, two of the hin- 
 dermost cows were brought to a stand-still, Hassan 
 and Slogee pursuing one, whilst Bran and Ali fast- 
 ened on the other ; the greyhounds yelping and giv- 
 ing tongue, but not having the pluck to lay hold. 
 
 Leaving the fallen to the care of D , who, being 
 
 but indifferently mounted, was pounding along in 
 
 the rear, B and I each selected a bull, and 
 
 after sundry purls and divers charges, in which we 
 were often the pursued, both of us managed to
 
 OF TEE OLD WOELD. 195 
 
 " bring our game to grass." The one I was after 
 charged repeatedly, and, notwithstanding I was ad- 
 mirably mounted on my pet hog-hunter, Lall Babba, 
 it was not until we had covered a good four miles 
 of ground that I managed at last, when the quarry 
 was swerving about from side to side, breathless and 
 exhausted, to drive my spear in behind the shoulder 
 and out of the chest, when he saccumbed and bit 
 the dust. 
 
 The bull-nilghau (from the Hindostani nil, blue, 
 and c/hau, cow) is about the height of a galloway, 
 and somewhat resembles what a hybrid would be 
 between a deer and a cow ; he has curved pointed 
 horns, a short mane, but hardly any dewlap. The 
 cow is smaller, and of a dun fawn-colour. Both 
 have beautiful black eyes, like those of the deer. 
 
 On rejoining the gang we found that D had 
 
 despatched the two cows seized by the dogs, and 
 wounded a third with his rifle, which latter the dogs 
 vvere still chasing. We accordingly loosened the 
 saddles of our nags, and reclined under a tree whilst 
 our syces rubbed them down ; and after some time 
 
 D returned, having killed the third cow, when, 
 
 as the sun was extremely powerful, we remounted 
 and made the best of our way to the tents, leaving 
 the gang to break up the deer and bring in the skins. 
 The flesh of the uilghau somewhat resembles venison, 
 but is coarser ; the hump, however, when salted and 
 spiced is not to be despised, and the marrow is one 
 of the greatest delicacies to be had in India.
 
 196 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 lu the evening, just as we were going to sit down 
 to dinner, one of our people, who had been bathing 
 in the stream a short distance below our camp, came 
 running in with the information that he had seen 
 two bears drinking, close to. We immediately sal- 
 lied forth in pursuit, and B had the luck to fall 
 
 in with them, killing one outright with the first shot, 
 and disabling the other, which Chineah despatched. 
 After this little episode we dined, and sat round the 
 camp-fire discussing the events of the day until a 
 late hour, when we turned in, highly satisfied with 
 our sport, for slaying a bull-nilghau single-handed 
 with the spear is not an everyday occurrence, even 
 in an Indian sportsman's career. 
 
 The next day we moved on to Eaupoor, distance 
 nine miles, where we pitched our tents, having heard 
 that a herd of elephants had been seen by some 
 Mulchers a few days before ; but after a couple of 
 days' search, during which we found no fresh trails, 
 we advanced to Dewara, where, as we were beating 
 a very thick and likely cover, a black panther started 
 up from a cleft in the ground close under my feet, 
 and I had the good fortune to roll him over with a 
 single ball, which took effect just behind the ear. 
 The skin was magnificent, the spots being distinctly 
 visible when held up to the light, appearing of a 
 deeper black than the rest. The gang declared that 
 the black panther was a much more dangerous animal 
 than the ordinary species ; and as I had on a previ- 
 ous occasion seen one, that Walter M had
 
 OP THE OLD WORLD. 197 
 
 wounded, charge most desperately several times, 
 perhaps their assertion is correct. The one I killed 
 certainly was a most formidable-looking customer, 
 having great yellow eyes and long black whiskers, 
 but the fur was soft and silky as velvet. The next 
 four days afforded us no sport except an old she- 
 bear, which was killed by B and D whilst 
 
 enf^aged in eating the fruit of the " mowra " tree ; 
 but I was very much struck with the singular and 
 ingenious manner in which the Mulchers of this 
 part of the jungle catch spotted-deer and antelope. 
 They cut strong pieces of the creeping-bamboo about 
 a quarter of an inch in diameter and four inches in 
 length, leaving the curved sharp-pointed stout thorn 
 that grows out of the joint. In the other end of this 
 is a notch, in which is fastened a piece of strong fibre 
 made from the aloe, about eighteen inches in length, 
 to the end of which is attached a small round pebble 
 by a hole drilled in the centre. In some parts of 
 the jungle is found a small sweet-tasted gourd, 
 somewhat shaped like a cucumber, and of this both 
 spotted-deer and antelope are particularly fond. 
 The natives, being aware of the fact, bait a number 
 of these hooks with this fruit and throw them 
 in the runs ; the deer unsuspiciously begin to eat 
 them, and finding the string and pebble knocking 
 about, they bend down their head and attempt to 
 break it off by treading on it witli their fore feet, or 
 striking it with the hind. In either case, the chances 
 are that the cord gets between the division in the hoof,
 
 198 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 and, being arrested by the stone, tliey are irretrievably 
 caught, as the hook fastens in the mouth or throat, 
 and the more they struggle the firmer they are held. 
 They generally struggle so violently that death from 
 exhaustion follows in a very short time, although I 
 have seen both spotted-deer and antelope brought in 
 alive, having been caught in this manner. 
 
 Our leave was now nearly expired, so we were 
 obliged to commence a retrograde movement, nnd, 
 having packed up our trophies, we returned to 
 Bowani, where Mother Garrow, a very Paphian 
 queen, was awaiting our arrival with a formidable 
 array of dusky nymphs. For three days we kept 
 up a continuous nautch, and even after that time 
 we were not tired of gazing upon the graceful 
 pirouettes of the fair votaries of Terpsichore, or 
 listening to the warbling of the dark-eyed song- 
 stresses as they sang on the old subjects, " Love and 
 War ; " and when the time came for us to take our 
 departure, more than one shed tears as the farewell 
 words were spoken ; indeed, if " Eumour with her 
 many tongues " spake true, it was discovered, soon 
 after our departure, that there were vacancies to 
 be filled up in the Pagoda of the dark mysterious 
 goddess. 
 
 D , " I could a tale unfold " that would 
 
 raise up a spirit on thy fireside, that all the soft 
 sawder of thy oily tongue would never calm ! But 
 1 11 spare your feelings for the sake of " auld lang
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 199 
 
 syne," and the jolly days we spent together in the 
 merry green woods. 
 
 We got into Trichy just in time, for two days 
 afterwards the monsoon broke, and there was a con- 
 tinuous downfall of rain, which inundated the whole 
 country.
 
 SECTION III.— THE MOUNTAIN RANGES. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE NEILGHEKKIES. 
 
 " Primseval woods, and forests vast aud rude, 
 Where reigns a deep unbroken solitude : 
 Eternal teaks, who 've wider stretch'd their arms 
 And deeper struck their roots amid the storms." 
 
 Index. — Pleasing recollections. — The deep forest described. — 
 The pleasures and excitement of a hunter's life. — The requi- 
 site qualifications. — The Neilgherries and their productions. 
 — Variety of game. — Ootacamund. — Englishmen and their 
 love of Sport. — Dawson's Hotel. — Burnside Cottage. — Mala- 
 mund. — The Todas : their women, habitations, and strange 
 customs. — News of elk. — The start : preliminaries. — The 
 drive. — Game afoot. — A capital shot. — Three deer bite the 
 dust, and Bruin yields up his spoils. — A stag at bay. — The 
 return. — Convivial gathering. — The Major's story. 
 
 The Neilgherries. How many pleasing recollec- 
 tions of heart- stirring events are associated with 
 that name ; how many glorious days' sport does it 
 recall to mind; how many a dear friend does it 
 bring before me, with whom I have bearded the
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 201 
 
 tiger in his lair, tracked the mighty elephant to liis 
 haunt in the pathless forest, and there despoiled 
 him of his trophies, or pursued the watchful ibex 
 from crag to crag, over precipices, chasms, and 
 ledges of rock which men dared not look down 
 in their cooler moments ! Many a hand I then 
 clasped has become cold, many a voice I loved to 
 listen to is hushed for ever ; he witli whom I have 
 often scoured the plain and struggled for the spear 
 after the mighty gray boar, fell a shattered wreck 
 before my eyes in the van of the fight that murky 
 morn when " the Six Hundred " charged. There 
 are times when the past comes before me with sadly 
 painful distinctness, and my heart yearns to return 
 once more to that land where I have passed the 
 happiest years of my life, and to revisit those scenes 
 which are engraven in my memory in strong and 
 ineffaceable colours, although I know that my 
 merry companions are gone, and that their places 
 are occupied by strangers. Who among us have 
 not some sunny spots in their existence, some 
 remembrance of happier days gone by which they 
 love to look back upon with pleasure, however 
 bright future prospects may appear? Almost all 
 of us have some fondly-cherished souvenir or trophy 
 upon which we love to gaze and think of the past, 
 until the soul-stirring scenes of " auld lang syne " 
 again come vividly to mind ; and although we 
 feel that they may never come again, we look back 
 Avith pleasure upon the time when sunshine illumined
 
 202 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 our path. With some the golden age appears to 
 have been passed at school — with others, later in 
 life. Here a stately old general tells of the glorious 
 time he passed as a jolly sub in the days of powder 
 and pigtails ; and there a sturdy old squire of the 
 last generation recounts with glee the doings of his 
 time, " when hounds could run and huntsmen went 
 the pace ; " yon phlegmatic-looking old divine, with 
 blanched locks and rubicund nose, which bespeaks 
 his love of the pleasures of the table, relates, with 
 intense satisfaction, the roistering days he spent as 
 a young man in a fast regiment of Light Dragoons, 
 when it was considered a " crying sin " for any one 
 to quit the social board until he had disposed of a 
 couple of magnums under his belt ; and that 
 shrivelled-up old relic of mortality, who seems to 
 stand before us as a specimen of what the hand of 
 time can effect on our mortal frame, will prate by 
 the hour of the jolly dogs of his day, and the 
 fascinations of town when he was a gay Lothario. 
 Each and every one has some period of his life on 
 which he loves to look back and think upon, 
 although, perhaps, he may talk much more about 
 the future. The soldier loves to recall to mind the 
 scenes of many a hard-fought day ; the sailor, his 
 adventures on tlie heaving main ; the wanderer 
 delights in the reminiscences of travel in many 
 lands ; and the fox-hunter in the stiff bursts and 
 glorious runs of bygone times ; but the sportsman 
 who has visited the Neilgherri mountains and
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD, 203 
 
 stricken the mightiest denizens of the jungle, muses 
 by day and dreams by night of the dark deep 
 Wynaad forest. 
 
 Those who have never explored a primeval forest 
 can have but a very faint conception of the myste- 
 rious effect that absence of light and intense depth 
 of gloom have upon the human mind. The un- 
 broken silence and utter stillness that everywhere 
 l)ervades its leafy arches, creates a strange feeling 
 of awe and loneliness that depresses the spirits and 
 appals the heart of those who are unaccustomed to 
 wander in its solitudes ; and even the stoutest heart 
 feels overpowered with a strange sensation he can 
 neither account for nor explain the first time he 
 enters, for the voice of man resounds with a strange 
 and startling echo, and even the very hound whines 
 with fear, and couches close to his master's side, 
 afraid of being left alone. Solitude is too insuffi- 
 cient a term to convey an idea of the intensely 
 overpowering sensation of desolation and loneliness 
 that pervades these regions ; yet to the hunter, who 
 is accustomed to sojourn in their deepest recesses, 
 the wilderness is a home which he would not ex- 
 change for any other ; and as he roams through its 
 boundless expanse of verdure, with no other com- 
 panions but the silent trackers and his dogs, and no 
 guide but a pocket-compass and certain jungle signs 
 not to be understood by the dwellers of cities, he 
 imbibes certain feelings that cannot be entered into 
 save by those who have themselves experienced the
 
 204! THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 charms and fascinations of "forest life," and en- 
 joyed its pure and heartfelt pleasures. To him it 
 possesses a peculiar spell, not to be found elsewhere ; 
 and, far away from the haunts of man, he gives no 
 care to the turmoil and bustle of the busy world, 
 but loves to study Nature in her grandest forms, 
 and silent unsullied beauty, whilst his heart glows 
 with thoughts that bear him untiring company. 
 There is a peculiarly exhilarating delight passing 
 all description in the wild excitement of this life, 
 wliich dispels all anxiety, and strengthens the men- 
 tal and physical energies for the ever-changing 
 scene, delights the eye, and gives pleasure to the 
 intellect ; whilst, at the same time, the constant ex- 
 citement arising from the varied incidents of such a 
 state of existence invigorates the mind and stimu- 
 lates the powers of thought and observation. The 
 body sustained in continued exertion by constant 
 exercise, enables the hunter to maintain his course 
 for days together through the pathless woods, 
 with that dogged stubbornness and inflexibility 
 which is necessary to insure success in the pursuit 
 of the game he seeks. He moves noiselessly along, 
 without a care as to what he may encounter, for he 
 has implicit confidence in the power of his trusty 
 rifle ; and his vigilant eye, piercing the shadowy 
 depths of the jungle, leaves no hollow unsearched, 
 for he and his followers are dependent for their 
 subsistence on their exertions in the chase. No- 
 thing is so conducive to the keen development of
 
 OF TUE OLD WORLD. 20.J 
 
 the senses as the constant exertion of the different 
 faculties during a sojourn in the jungle ; quickness 
 of eye (an indispensable quality in a hunter) and 
 unceasing watchfulness are there attained ; habits 
 of observation are engendered, for anything out of 
 the common immediately attracts attention, and the 
 ear is habituated to catch the slightest sound. The 
 hunter should have a thorough knowledge of the 
 habits of the wild animals he seeks, bearing in 
 mind how suspicious they are, and how quickly 
 their attention is attracted by unusual noises, 
 strange traces in the jungle, or even the taint in 
 the air which the presence of man always leaves 
 behind it. The ranger of the forest experiences a 
 thorough feeling of independence and a freedom 
 from restraint in these wilds, that contrasts most 
 favourably with the desagrements of artificial exist- 
 ence, and few of those who are fitted to enjoy it 
 ever quit these scenes to return to civilised life 
 without deep feelings of regret that their unalloyed 
 pleasures are at an end ; and in after life the mur- 
 muring of waters and the sighings of the wind 
 through the trees will recall to mind moments of 
 intense interest, and they will ever feel at heart that 
 there is no music so sv/eet as the wild voices of the 
 woods. 
 
 All forests are gloomy, but they have their com- 
 parative degrees of shade, and none present a 
 greater diversity of appearance than that round the 
 Neilgherries. The tall feathery bamboo contrasts
 
 206 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 most delightfully with the stately teak, ebony, 
 blackwood, and other gigantic trees of the primeval 
 forest, where the air, being confined, is generally 
 close and suffocating. The surface of the ground is 
 everywhere thickly strewn with decayed leaves or 
 dead branches, and underneath the trees may be 
 seen the green of young seedlings which spring up 
 by thousands during the rains, but for the most 
 part pine and die, being deprived of light and 
 heat. 
 
 The climate on the tableland is about the finest 
 in the known world — exempt alike from the ex- 
 tremes of heat and cold, it realises as near as any 
 land " eternal spring," for its great alevation (8000 
 feet above the level of the sea) tempers the heat 
 generally felt in these latitudes, and gives the air a 
 pureness and bracing elasticity peculiarly grateful 
 to Europeans after a lengthened sojourn in the 
 scorching plains ; indeed, if cloudless skies, con- 
 tinual sunshine, and pleasant weather were the 
 only essentials to human happiness, the Neilgherries 
 would be the most likely place to seek it of any that 
 I have yet met with in my wanderings over land 
 and sea. 
 
 In its peculiar style of beauty nothing can exceed 
 the scenery of the hills. Stupendous peaks, groups 
 of gigantic forest-trees, hanging woods and foaming 
 cascades, alternate with clumps of rhododendrons, 
 covered with crimson bloom, wild camellias, jessa- 
 mines, and high waving ferns, whilst vines and
 
 OF TUE OLD WORLD. 207 
 
 other climbing-plauts hang in festoons from branch 
 to branch ; and here and there tlie landscape is 
 diversified with verdant lawns of velvet turf, natural 
 parterres of scarlet geranium, or orchids of luxu- 
 riant groveth. Where a view of the low country 
 can be caught through an opening in the thick 
 woods, it is equally grand and impressive, for a 
 blue haze spreads over the scene, softening and 
 blending its beauties, and giving it a dreamy 
 appearance peculiarly enchanting. Wild rasp- 
 berries and strawberries, noted for their excellent 
 flavour, are to be found everywhere in the woods ; 
 and the ferns, buttercups, and daisies that grow on 
 the banks of the numerous rills and burns that flow 
 rippling on every side, present a similarity of ap- 
 pearance that recalls visions of dear old England. 
 Birds of gaudy plumage dart amid the branches, 
 gay butterflies hover about, insects of metallic hue 
 glitter on the leaves, and all nature seems glad in 
 this highly-favoured spot. 
 
 I have never yet met with any hunting-grounds 
 to be compared with the great Wynaad Jungle for 
 diversity of game, which includes elephants, bison, 
 elk, spotted-deer, jungle -sheep, hog- deer, tigers, 
 panthers, leopards, cheetahs, bears, hyenas, tiger-cats, 
 boars, wolves, jackals, wild dogs, porcupines, hares, 
 pea-fowl, jungle-fowl, spur-fowl, partridges, quail, 
 and snipe, whilst on the hills are found ibex and 
 woodcock, which are never seen in the low country. 
 
 Ootacamund, the principal station, is the most
 
 208 THE HUNTINa GROUNDS 
 
 delightful place of residence in Hindostan, It 
 possesses a handsome church, well-established club, 
 two first-rate hotels, several handsome shops, which 
 are chiefly kept by Parsees, a well-stocked bazaar, 
 and many hundred excellent houses and bungalows, 
 some of which are perfect mansions. The canton- 
 ment occupies a great extent of ground, as, the 
 country being extremely undulating, most of the 
 houses are picturesquely situated on slight emi- 
 nences, and surrounded with large gardens, which 
 are generally extremely well kept up. Apples, 
 pears, quinces, peaches, apricots, plums, cherries, 
 currants, and most European vegetables, thrive 
 well ; whilst fuchsias, honeysuckles, woodbine, jessa- 
 mine, clematis, passion - flowers, and geraniums 
 grow in the wildest luxuriance, and require little 
 care. In the centre of the cantonment is a beauti- 
 ful artificial lake, round which is the drive or pro- 
 menade, the ''Rotten Row" of Ooty, where in the 
 afternoon may be seen several hundred Anglo- 
 Indians, either on horseback or in vehicles of every 
 description, from the stylish barouche to the hum- 
 ble " bullock-garree," listening to the band or driv- 
 ing about to gain an appetite for dinner. 
 
 The Neilgherries being considered among the 
 healthiest spots in Southern India, have been con- 
 stituted a sanitarium; and here may be seen 
 invalid officers from all parts of the Madras and 
 Bombay Presidencies, who have obtained leave of 
 absence from their regiments, for periods varying
 
 OF THE OLD WOULD, 209 
 
 from six montlis to two years, in order to recruit 
 their health, during which time they draw their 
 full pay and allowances, which, from some stupid 
 fancy of the East India Board, is not the case wdien 
 they are obliged to return to Europe. The conse- 
 quence is, that Ooty somewhat resembles a fast 
 watering-place, and is extremely gay ; balls, parties, 
 and picnics being of common occurrence. 
 
 Surrounded by splendid hunting-grounds, it is 
 the head-quarters of sportsmen ; for wherever there 
 is anything to hunt that promises sport. English- 
 men are sure to set out in pursuit. As a nation 
 we are essentially sportsmen, for the chase in all 
 its branches seems indigenous to the country. 
 Taking, for example, the officers of our army and 
 navy, who are scattered all over the face of the 
 globe, thousands of miles from their native land, we 
 find that neither a burning sun and the enervating 
 influence of a tropical climate, nor an icy tempera- 
 ture, can damp their ardour for field-sports, which, 
 notwithstanding every disadvantage, they endeavour 
 to keep up. Such being the case, it is not therefore 
 surprising that in Ooty there is a well-established 
 subscription pack of hounds for hunting the fox 
 and jackal, besides several private ones of beagles, 
 spaniels, and cockers for driving the covers. In no 
 part of Great Britain are woodcock more eagerly 
 followed than on the hills, and every year large 
 sums of money change hands in wagers as to what 
 sportsman will kill the first cock. The season 
 

 
 210 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 begins in October and ends in March, although soli- 
 tary birds may be found a month earlier or later. 
 
 On my first arrival, Ooty was very full ; and as 
 vacant bungalows were scarce, I put up for some 
 time at Dawson's Hotel, where I had every reason 
 to be highly satisfied with the accommodation, for 
 my quarters were extremely comfortable, and the 
 living first - rate ; indeed, I have seldom come 
 across such a cuisine. There was certainly only 
 another like it on the Madras side, that of the Club 
 of Secunderabad, where the mighty Tatiah ruled the 
 roast. 
 
 Having all my establishment with me, including 
 my celebrated hunting-gang, which comprised some 
 of the best trackers in the country, my old chum 
 
 B and I took a snug compact little box called 
 
 Burnside Cottage, with good stabling, outhouses for 
 servants, and a well-stocked garden ; which was 
 most delightfully situated just below the crest of a 
 hill, and overlooking the glen of the Mala-mund, 
 a village inhabited by the Todas, a strange race of 
 people, who are supposed by some to be a remnant 
 of " the lost tribes." The men are generally above 
 the common height, well made, athletic, and with 
 open prepossessing countenances. They have a 
 decidedly Jewish type of nose, large oriental eyes, 
 fine teeth, and oval faces, the lower part of which 
 is generally covered with a fine jet-black beard. 
 They wear no head-dress, but the hair, which grows 
 in great profusion, is parted in the centre, and flows
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 211 
 
 in curls all round the head. Their dress consists 
 of a waist-cloth and a kind of cotton sheet, which 
 they wear like a Roman toga, thrown over the body, 
 leaving the arms and legs bare. The men are de- 
 cidedly the finest-looking race in Hindostan, having 
 a noble independent bearing, and none of that 
 cringing and fawning obsequiousness which is 
 observable in every other caste of native. The 
 women are tall and commanding, with figures for 
 the most part fiiultless ; erect but remarkably 
 graceful, somewhat slight perhaps, but exquisitely 
 rounded ; every line full of softness and beauty, 
 every limb in fine symmetry, supple, and delicate. 
 The head is peculiarly small and elegant, the face 
 oval, and generally of the Israelitish type. The 
 features are small and finely chiselled ; the mouth 
 beautifully formed, and graced with pearl-like teeth ; 
 the eyes large, lustrous, wild, soft and gazelle-like ; 
 the eyebrows are much arched and finely pencilled ; 
 the lashes very long and full ; the hair of the head 
 abundant, full of natural waves, and flowing in 
 ringlets over the neck and shoulders. Their skins, 
 of a softness beyond that of other women, are of a 
 rich, clear, olive colour, several shades lighter than 
 the men, in consequence of less exposure to the 
 weather ; and their hands and feet are comparatively 
 small and beautifully formed. They arrive at ma- 
 turity at a very early age, and it is no uncommon 
 thing to see outside the huts a pretty little girl, 
 under twelve years of age, with an infant on her
 
 212 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 hip ; but as they arrive speedily to womanhood, so 
 their beauty decays ; at sixteen they are in the 
 prime of life, and at thirty aged, when they retain 
 no trace of their former beauty. The women have 
 a plurality of husbands, the brothers of a family 
 generally marrying one wife, which practice is also 
 common among the Nairs and other castes on the 
 western coast. Their huts are built in the shape 
 of the tilt of a waggon, of bamboos thatched with 
 turf. They are about ten feet long, seven broad, 
 and six high, and the door (the only aperture in the 
 building) is only about two feet square, so that the 
 inhabitants have to crawl in and out on all fours. 
 Half a dozen huts constitute a " mund " or village, 
 which is generally situated on the side of a hill, in 
 the most picturesque spots on the hills. They are 
 a pastoral people, possessing large herds of the 
 finest buffaloes in India ; having a strange language 
 of their own, but no character to express it. The 
 men sometimes wear small gold earrings, and the 
 women silver or brass armlets, and a rude kind of 
 zone, which is worn loosely round the hips. The 
 Toda men call themselves the lords of the soil, and 
 look down with supreme contempt upon the Bur- 
 ghers, another hill race, who are of inferior stature, 
 and cultivate the ground, for which they have to 
 pay the former a certain tribute. 
 
 One morning as B and I were engaged in 
 
 superintending the laying out of a piece of ground 
 as an addition to our kitchen-garden, a Toda, to
 
 OF THE OLD WOELD. 215 
 
 whom I had one day paid some slight attention, 
 came to inform us that he had seen a large herd of 
 elk in a wooded ravine about three miles distant. 
 
 I immediately wrote oflF to Major S , who had a 
 
 pack of dogs, and W , K , C , and B , 
 
 then staying at Dawson's, informing them of the 
 news; and in half an hour they all assembled in their 
 hunting-togs at my crib, with two or three other 
 fellows whom they had picked up en route. In the 
 meantime Chineah, my head " shekarry," had mus- 
 tered the gang, with a dozen extra beaters ; and 
 after having partaken of some refreshment, we 
 mounted our nags, and, accompanied by horse- 
 keepers and gunbearers, set off for the cover under 
 the guidance of the Toda. An hour's ride brought 
 us to the spot, and, dismounting, we reconnoitred the 
 ground, so as to make sure the game had not stolen 
 away. No slots were seen to lead us to suppose 
 this had been the case, so we took post along the 
 edges of the cover, whilst the gang-beaters and dogs 
 descended the ravine by a circuitous route, so as to 
 drive the game up the hill, and force it to break 
 towards that side where we were lying concealed. 
 I also ordered the Gooroo and Ali to remain with 
 my polygar dogs on the high ground, so as to be 
 ready in case any of the deer should get away 
 wounded, which afterwards turned out a lucky hit. 
 After nearly half an hour's suspense, certain sounds 
 issued from below which informed us that the 
 beaters and dogs had entered the lower end of the
 
 214. THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 cover, and presently a low yelp told us that one of 
 the pack had taken up the scent. ' Hark to old 
 Ponto!" cried the major, who was ensconced behind 
 a rhododendron-bush a few paces distant from me ; 
 and a smile of contentment gleamed over the time- 
 worn and weather-beaten physiognomy of the old 
 sportsman as he recognised the voice of his favourite 
 hound. " Hush ! hark ! there he goes again. The 
 game 's afoot, take my word for it. He never gives 
 tongue without a cause, so pass the word along the 
 line to keep a bright look-out. There goes Rupert 
 and Gelert chiming in." Shortly after this prelude, 
 hound after hound opened on scent and took up the 
 cry, until at last the harmonious chorus burst forth 
 from the ravine, and awoke the echoes of the sur- 
 rounding woods. I need not describe to sportsmen 
 the intense excitement and pleasurable sensations 
 this melody raised in our hearts ; for we knew that 
 the deer were afoot, and each internally wished that 
 they might break sufficiently near to give him a 
 shot. From time to time the crashing of branches 
 informed us that the herd were close at hand, and 
 each prepared to raise his deadly weapon, but again 
 and again they broke back. At last an enormous 
 buck-elk, with widely-spreading antlers, summoned 
 resolution to leave the cover, and came tearing 
 through the bushes with mighty elastic bounds 
 some distance to my right, and within easy range 
 
 of W and K , who let drive double shots 
 
 with apparently little effect, for he continued his
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 215 
 
 course without relaxing his speed for a moment. 
 I tried to get a shot as he was bounding away, but 
 could not catch sight of him on account of inter- 
 vening bushes, when the old major, who was quietly 
 seated on his right heel, with his left knee thrown 
 well forward, and his left elbow resting upon it, 
 (the best position for steady shooting,) let fly right 
 and left ; and although I could not see the stag, 
 I knew from the double " thuds " I heard that both 
 shots had taken effect. " Hurrah ! he 's down, 
 boys i " vociferated the gallant old soldier, as he 
 sprang to his feet, and picked up his second rifle ; 
 but before he could raise it the stag had regained 
 his legs, and a slight undulation in the ground 
 prevented his getting another shot. " Bravo, ma- 
 jor ! " I exclaimed ; " you ' wiped the youngster's 
 eyes ' beautifully, and made a couple of excellent 
 shots, for both were over two hundred yards distant. 
 We will now loose Hassan and Ali, and I 'II warrant 
 you they will soon give a good account of the 
 quarry." I accordingly gave the necessary orders 
 to lay in the dogs, when just at the moment I heard a 
 crash in the jungle, and two young bucks with velvety 
 horns, and seven does, broke cover, followed by an 
 old she-bear. I brought down one of the bucks, 
 and three of the does fell before a combined volley, 
 whilst the bear received two or three gentle re- 
 minders of our presence that did anything but 
 increase her stock of good-humour, for she growled 
 most savagely, and made a serious charge at W
 
 216 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 and K , who could only give leg-bail, as their 
 
 rifles were empty. Luckily the dogs caught sight 
 of her, and Hassan seized her by the hind-leg, 
 which brought her up, and g^ve Ali the oppor- 
 tunity of pinning her by the ear on the opposite 
 side. Both were immensely powerful dogs, (a cross 
 between the bloodhound and polygar,) and poor 
 Bruin stood no chance of doing mischief, although 
 she seemed most maliciously inclined. As soon as I 
 
 came up I called off the dogs, and B gave her 
 
 a coup de grace behind the ear. The beaters and 
 the major's pack now made their appearance ; and 
 after the dogs had been collected, I laid Ali and 
 Hassan on the trail of the stag that had been 
 wounded by the major. Large drops of blood 
 marked his course ; and as we were following it 
 up a loud deep bellow in a patch of high fern 
 close at hand told us that the stag was at bay. 
 When we came up we found him covered with 
 blood and foam, struggling desperately with the 
 dogs, who had seized him by the throat and held 
 him fast. His bloodshot eyes rolled savagely as we 
 approached, and he lowered his head as if to make 
 a stroke at us with his horns ; but he was weak 
 from loss of blood, and stumbled, which gave 
 Chineah the opportunity of drawing his knife across 
 his throat, when he made a feeble attempt to re- 
 gain his knees, but staggered, reeled, and fell, utter- 
 ing a deep groan. A convulsive tremour passed 
 over his limbs, and all was still.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 217 
 
 As soon as the venison was broken up and slung 
 upon poles, we mounted our nags and returned to 
 
 Ooty, where we all met round Major S 's social 
 
 board in the evening ; when, after the cloth was 
 removed, songs went round, and many animated re- 
 citals of hairbreadth escapes and perilous encounters 
 with the grim monsters of the forest were related 
 by the old hands, which caused our sitting to last 
 until a late hour. Just as we were about to sepa- 
 rate, W happened to mention something about 
 
 a cantonment ball that was to take place shortly ; 
 when our worthy host, pricking up his ears, asked 
 if any of us had heard of the direful effects matri- 
 mony had upon Geordie S , a connexion of his. 
 
 " He was before your time, but no one who knew 
 could ever forget him, for a better or keener sports- 
 man never breathed. It was a pleasure to see him 
 dashing across country after the gray boar, or hear 
 his merry laugh, pithy saying, and jolly song in the 
 evening, round the camp-fire when the sports of the 
 day were over. * A change came o'er the spirit of 
 my dream,' Geordie got ' touched,' was led to the 
 altar, ' tied up ;' and I met him again after a lapse 
 of years — but oh ! how changed ! The jovial sun- 
 burnt face had become long; his laughing eyes, 
 that once beamed with mirth, shot out melancholy 
 glances; the formerly strong arm had become flabby; 
 and the legs no better than broom-sticks ! He re- 
 ceived me kindly as ever, but looked, I must own, 
 rather sheepish and glum. After some conversa-
 
 218 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 
 
 tion, in wliicli I brought 'old times' to his recollec- 
 tion, he brightened up a little, his old smile returned, 
 and for a moment he looked somewhat like himself 
 again. It was but a temporary glimmer, for a shrill 
 harsh voice in an adjoining chamber, followed by a 
 smart slap and a lengthened squall, reminded him of 
 his wretched situation ; and as I rose to avoid meet- 
 ing his (can I say) better half, who was evidently 
 getting herself up for the occasion, he pressed my 
 hand in his old affectionate manner, muttering with 
 
 a deeply-drawn sigh, ' S , my dear fellow, you 
 
 see the unfortunate mistake I made, and what it has 
 brought me to ; take warning, steer clear of wed- 
 lock, and you '11 be a happy man.' * I '11 be if 
 
 I don't,' I replied, feeling at the same time a chok- 
 ing sensation, as I mounted my nag, and rode off 
 just as the temptress was sailing into the room." 
 After a hearty laugh at the major's anecdote we bade 
 him good night, and each made his way home.
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE NEILGHERRIES CONTINUED. — A NIGHT AFFAIR. 
 
 News of a tiger. — His last depredation. — The ambuscade. — Lying 
 in wait. — A night attack. — Exciting moments. — The spoiler 
 vanquished. — The return. — News of ibex, and an expedition 
 
 to the Koondah range. — Ibex-stalking. — B 's wonderful 
 
 shooting. — The game nearly lost. — The ibex described. — Re- 
 turn to Ooty. 
 
 Time passed most pleasantly on the hills, for the 
 days were spent in exploring parties and field sports 
 of every description ; the evenings in social gather- 
 ings, enlivened by the presence of female society ; 
 and the nights in deliciously sound repose, which in 
 itself is one of the greatest luxuries an Anglo-Indian 
 can enjoy, for in the low country during the hot 
 season the unsupportably close and oppressive period 
 between sunset and early dawn is more distressing 
 and enervating than the intense heat of the day ; 
 for during this time not a breath of air agitates the 
 branches of the highest trees, candles burn in the 
 open air without flickering, the atmosphere is suf- 
 focatingly close, and unless the punkah is kept con-
 
 220 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 tinually going the European can obtain no sleep, but 
 tosses about restlessly on his couch, and gets up in 
 the morning feeling as weary, tired, and overcome 
 with lassitude as when he laid down. This want of 
 rest is more trying to our soldiers than any privation 
 or fatigue they may exj^erience during their sojourn 
 in tropical climates ; and of late years officers com- 
 manding regiments have been empowered by the 
 Indian Government to employ coolies to keep the 
 punkahs going day and night during the hot months, 
 which has been found to have an extremely salutary 
 effect. One day I was superintending the manu- 
 facture of a batch of "goorakoo"* for my hookah, 
 according to a recipe I obtained from one of the re- 
 tainers of Mah-rajah Chundalal, the late Dewan of 
 the Deccan, when Chineah came with the intelli- 
 gence that a tiger had struck down a bullock be- 
 longing to some Mulchers about five miles distant, 
 
 * Goorakoo, from the Sanscrit word " goor," sugar, and tlie 
 Telegoo " akoo," a leaf, is the compound used in the hookah. 
 The following is the best recipe I ever met with : — " Take of 
 tobacco four seers, (16 lbs.,) common treacle four seers, wood- 
 apple (feronia clephantum) half a seer, preserved apples, plan- 
 tains or pineapple, half a seer, raisins half a seer, and ' goolgund' 
 (conserve of roses) half a seer. Pound these ingredients well 
 together in a large wooden mortar, adding cardamums, sandal- 
 wood, otto of roses, and spikenard, according as you want it 
 mor» or less scented. When it is well mixed, and has assumed 
 the consistency of a thick paste, add a seer of dried rose-leaves, 
 then put it in an earthen pot, the mouth of which must be 
 made perfectly airtight by being waxed over, and bury it for 
 three months, after which it is ready for use."
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 221 
 
 and after having sucked the blood had left the car- 
 cass, which Naga and Googooloo had gone to watch, 
 to prevent its being carried away by the Cbucklurs 
 (shoemakers) or Pariahs, (low caste people.) 
 
 B had gone out to reconnoitre some ibex 
 
 ground on the Koondah range, and as I did not ex- 
 pect him to return until late in the evening I made 
 preparations to start alone. Tiffin eaten, I set out 
 for the spot accompanied by Chineah, the Gooroo, 
 and a horse-keeper who carried my rifles, and after 
 an hour's ride arrived at a little patch of cultivation 
 surrounded on three sides by dense wood, where we 
 found a fine white bullock lying dead in a pool of 
 blood, with his throat torn and shoulder dislocated. 
 I saw at a glance that the marauder was a large 
 tiger, for besides the holes made in the throat by his 
 fangs, and the marks of his claws in the back of the 
 neck, which had torn up the flesh in ridges, there 
 were several immense "pugs" deeply imprinted in 
 the soft ground, near which the struggle had taken 
 place. 
 
 Googooloo and Naga had built an ambuscade in 
 a tree, about ten feet from the ground, which com- 
 manded an excellent view of all approaches from the 
 cover ; but as I did not imagine that the tiger would 
 return to his prey in the earlier part of the evening, 
 and I should not have the advantage of the light of 
 the moon until late, I determined to await his ap- 
 proach at close quarters, and made the gang dig a 
 hole about four feet deep under a low overhanging
 
 222 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 bush, much overgrown with creepers and parasitical 
 plants, which was about half a dozen paces to lee- 
 ward of the carcass. By making my place of con- 
 cealment in the ground, I knew I should have a 
 better chance of getting a sight of the tiger, and 
 takinfj more certain aim in the dark, than if I was 
 perched in a tree above him, besides which it seemed 
 something more like fair play. Having lined my 
 place of ambuscade with a carpet, so as to make it 
 more comfortable, I carefully loaded my weapons, 
 which were two double ten-bore rifles, a double two- 
 ounce gun, and a brace of large double holster- 
 pistols ; arranged my comforts for the inner man, 
 consisting of a stone bottle of strong green tea, a 
 flask of brandy, and a huge pile of sandwiches ; and 
 ordered all my followers to return to Ooty, with the 
 horse, excepting Chineah and Googooloo, who were 
 to keep watch in the tree so as to be at hand in case 
 they might be wanted. 
 
 All being prepared, as soon as the shadows of 
 evening began to lengthen we took post, and during 
 the few remaining hours of daylight I carefully 
 noted every bush and undulation in the ground, so 
 as to be better able to perceive anything in the 
 dark. As the day declined, the last rays of an un- 
 clouded sunset threw a rich purple haze over the 
 whole scene, and the many-tinted foliage of the sur- 
 rounding woods glistened with golden tints in the 
 light of departing day. 
 
 The tuneful songsters ceased their warbling, and
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD, 223 
 
 the woods no lonf;ei' resounded with tlic sharp 
 strokes of the woodpecker ; but the ni::^ht-hawk was 
 on the wing, and darted swiftly to and fro after the 
 moths, which at that hour were flitting about in 
 great numbers. The air became redolent with the 
 fragrance of numberless flowering shrubs, which 
 seemed to emit a double perfume towards the close 
 of day. The evening deepened into twilight, the 
 twilight darkened into night, and the stars with 
 their mild radiance seemed as if they strove to 
 eclipse the lingering rays of sunset. At length the 
 mighty forest became silent, and no sound reached 
 our ears save the occasional chirping of a cricket, 
 the dismal hooting of the horned owl, the howling 
 of troops of jackals, or the melancholy booming of 
 the great hill-monkey. As the night wore on, the 
 tall trees could hardly be distinguished one behind 
 another, as they loomed darker and darker against 
 an indefinable background. 
 
 Time passed slowly, the night air became chilly, 
 and at last I began to fancy the tiger, having 
 satiated his thirst with blood, had no intention of 
 returning for the flesh, (a frequent occurrence ;) so 
 I wrapped myself up more closely in my " combley," 
 (a blanket made of goats' hair, impermeable to wet,) 
 and set to work at my pile of sandwiches and cold 
 tea, with occasional nips of brandy, when suddenly 
 I thought I caught the sound of a rustling of leaves, 
 followed by the snapping of a dry twig. I set down 
 the bottle of tea I was in the act of raising to my
 
 224 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 mouth, noiselessly grasped my rifle, which I raised 
 with the muzzle directed towards the spot from 
 whence I thought the noise proceeded, and listened 
 attentively ; but I heard nothing save the palpita- 
 tions of my own heart, that seemed to be thumping 
 violently against my side ; and as to seeing anything, 
 it was out of the question, for the night was so dark 
 and gloomy, that I could scarcely even recognise the 
 outline of the dead bullock. A long anxious hour 
 passed, and I repeatedly heard the tearing of flesh 
 and crunchincf of bones close in front of me, but the 
 sky was so overcast that I could not distinguish any- 
 thing, although now and then I caught sight of a pair 
 of greenish-looking eyes, and heard a low purring. 
 At last, finding there was no prospect of getting a 
 fair shot, I resolved to risk a chance one, and having 
 waited until I again caught sight of his eyes, I gave 
 a whistle, which immediately attracted his attention, 
 for he raised up his head, uttering a low savage 
 snarl, and I saw his eyeballs glare as if he was peer- 
 ing through the gloom in my direction. This was 
 the opportunity I wanted. I took deliberate aim 
 between the glittering orbs that shone like burning 
 coals, and pulled both triggers almost simultaneously. 
 A hoarse roar followed the double report, which was 
 re-echoed by the distant hills — something dark 
 passed overhead, and I heard a crashing and rending 
 of wood in the bush immediately behind me, with a 
 loud whine and peculiar grunt which told me that 
 the tijjer was hard hit.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 225 
 
 I grasped my second gun, stuck my pistols in my 
 belt, so as to be ready for immediate use, and turned 
 towards the spot where the tiger appeared to be, at 
 the same time calling to Chineah and Googooloo, to 
 prevent them leaving their post on any account, for 
 I well knew how dangerous a wounded tiger is at 
 any time, more especially in the dark, when he can 
 see, and man cannot. On receiving the contents of 
 my rifle, he must have sprung clear over the ambus- 
 cade, for I heard him strugs^Iing in the bush just 
 behind it, grinding his teeth, and emitting strange 
 moaning noises. Every now and then he seemed to 
 be moving restlessly about, and at times I thought, 
 from his hard breathing, (which somewhat resembled 
 a loud snore,) that he was close to me ; indeed I 
 fancied once or twice that I felt the bushes shake, as 
 if he was trying to get at me. Although prepared 
 for all emergencies, I remained perfectly quiet, list- 
 ening intently to his movements, for the darkness 
 was so profound that I could not see my hand before 
 me. Ciiineah gave a signal to me once or twice, 
 but I dared not answer it, lest I should attract the 
 enraged animal's notice towards the place of my 
 concealment. After a lengthened period of anxious 
 and exciting suspense, I heard the wounded tiger 
 heave a long deep-drawn sigh, which was followed 
 by a succession of smothered groans and gaspings 
 for breath ; then came a heavy fall, another violent 
 6truggle, a gurgling bubbling sound in the throat as 
 of suffocation, a hollow rattle, and all was stilJ. 
 
 p
 
 226 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 I knew my antagonist was dead, but to make sure, 
 I waited a few minutes before leaving my ambus- 
 cade, when, hearing nothing, I lighted a bull's-eye 
 lantern I always carried about with me, which fast- 
 ened by a spring to the front of ray belt, and, rifle 
 in hand, I took a cursory view of the bullock, the 
 hinder part of which was half eaten, and then exa- 
 mined the bush, where I found the tiger stretched 
 lifeless on the ground, in some low cover about 
 fifteen paces behind the place where I had been 
 lying in wait. I called down Chineah and Googooloo, 
 who lighted a torch, and we found that both of my 
 shots had taken efiect ; the first had struck him in 
 the centre of the forehead, ploughed up the skin, 
 and glanced off the bone ; the second entered the 
 chest, and apparently traversed the lungs, for the 
 ground about was covered with blood and froth that 
 
 O 
 
 had issued from the mouth. He proved to be mag- 
 nificently marked, although not so large as I ex- 
 pected, from the large imprints of his paws. 
 
 We now lighted a large fire, wrapped ourselves 
 carefully up in our blankets, and indulged in a brew 
 of hot punch and the " fragrant weed," which never 
 appeared more grateful than on that bitterly cold 
 morning. After some time the summits of the op- 
 posite hills began to appear more distinctly against 
 a clearer sky, and presently the moon slowly emerged 
 above the horizon, and her silver rays lighted up the 
 whole scene. After having cut off the centre claw of 
 the tiger's right foot, by way of marking the game.
 
 OF THE OLD WOELD. 227 
 
 we collected the carpets, blankets, &c., and leaving 
 Googooloo on the platform to watch the body, 
 Chineah and I shouldered our rifles, and made the 
 best of our way to the bungalow, where we arrived 
 just as the first faint streaks of gray in the east pro- 
 claimed that day was about to break. After having 
 given orders to the " gooroo " to go with some of 
 the people and bring the skin, I turned in and en- 
 joyed several hours' refreshing sleep, tiffin being on 
 the table before I made my appearance, when I was 
 warmly congratulated on my success by several 
 friends who dropped in to admire the spoils. 
 
 B gave a very good account of the ibex on the 
 
 Koondahs, having seen two herds on the summit of 
 an isolated ridge overlooking the low country, which 
 he forbore to follow, on account of the weather 
 threatening fog in those altitudes. We determined, 
 however, to make an attempt, and ordered the 
 people to be ready to start with a tent before day- 
 break the next morning, we intending to follow 
 soon after. 
 
 The following morning B and I mounted our 
 
 nags soon after breakfast and sallied forth from the 
 glen of the Mala-mund, equipped in suits of drab 
 moleskin, which colour is the best adapted for ibex- 
 stalking, as at a short distance it is scarcely distin- 
 guishable from the bleak crags among which they 
 dwell. 
 
 The pursuit of the ibex, although an intensely 
 exciting sport, is the most difficult of all deer-
 
 228 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 stalking, and proves the severest test of the qualifi- 
 cations of a hunter ; for not only are these animals 
 exceedingly shy and watchful, but they are also 
 gifted with remarkably keen sight, and their senses 
 of smelling and hearing are developed to an extra- 
 ordinary degree. From the almost inaccessible na- 
 ture of the ground on which they are found, he who 
 would take their spoils should be endued with great 
 strength, perseverance, and endurance, besides which 
 be must have the agility of a mountaineer and a 
 steady head, or he can never follow up his game to 
 their haunts along narrow ledges of scarped rocks 
 and beetling heights, where a false step or a mo-- 
 ment's giddiness would entail certain destruction. 
 There can be no doubt but that intense excitement 
 takes away all dread of danger, for I have seen it 
 exemplified many times, not only on the hunting- 
 ground but also on the field of battle. The same 
 spirit which animates a " dare devil" in the front 
 rank of the hunting-field at home accompanies him 
 in the van of the fight abroad, and in both cases, if 
 his career is not stopped by " a fall," he will be 
 found " well in at the death." An ardent hunter, 
 like a daring soldier, possesses a mental energy 
 superior to all thought of peril ; for, seeking only 
 the attainment of his purpose, he pursues his course 
 with that dogged stubbornness, inflexibility of pur- 
 pose, and recklessness of self-preservation that make 
 him invincible and ensure success in the end. In 
 my opinion, the greatest compliment the British
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 229 
 
 army ever received was when the ;;reat Napoleon 
 said that " the men never knew when they were 
 beaten." The saying marked the discrimination of 
 the man, as it was that feeling that gained us 
 Waterloo, Inkermann, and numberless other glori- 
 ous days ; for our soldiers, in the words of our 
 greatest bard, — 
 
 " Could for itself woo the approaching fight. 
 And turn what some deem danger to delight." 
 
 But, gentle reader, I crave your pardon for 
 digressing, having wandered from my subject by 
 musing upon bygone days and the many hard- 
 fought fields that I have seen won. So now to 
 describe the Neilgherry ibex, which is, I believe, of 
 a species peculiar to the range, differing in many 
 respects from those found on the Himalayas or the 
 Caucasus. In shape they somewhat resemble the 
 common Indian goat, but the body is much shorter 
 in comparison with the height. The largest I ever 
 
 saw — which was kiUed by B on the precipitous 
 
 heights of the Koondahs, overlooking the low coun- 
 try — measured G feet 8 inches in length from the 
 point of the nose to the end of the tail, 50 inches 
 in height at the shoulder, and weighed, I should 
 think, over 200 pounds, as it was in first-rate 
 condition, the rutting season not having commenced. 
 The horns are dark olive with black points, about 
 10 inches in length, ringed, and 4i inches in cir- 
 cumference at the base, gradually diverging until the
 
 230 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 points become nearly 6 inches apart. These ibex 
 are uniformly of a light ash, deepening to dark 
 brown on the hind-quarters and forepart of the 
 legs, with an almost black stripe running along the 
 ridge of the back. The head is fawn-colour, part 
 of the face being of a rich brown, and the muzzle 
 nearly black. The back is furnished with a shaggy, 
 stiff, upright mane, running along the neck and 
 shoulders, which gradually grows shorter on the 
 hind-quarters. The smell of this animal is parti- 
 cularly rank and offensive, and the flesh is scarcely 
 eatable at any time, being so strong-tasted and coarse. 
 Ibex are found in troops, rarely exceeding a dozen 
 in number, amongst the rugged crags of the highest 
 and most inaccessible mountains, their food consist- 
 ing chiefly of the different mosses and short, crisp, 
 delicate herbage indigenous to great altitudes. A 
 wary old buck who has often quite a patriarchal 
 appearance, is generally chosen as the leader of the 
 herd ; and if he sees anything suspicious, or catches 
 a taint in the air, a peculiar whistle alarms the rest, 
 causing them to collect together and remain on the 
 alert, and on a repetition of the signal away they 
 scamper, always ascending or descending a slope in 
 an oblique direction. Sometimes I have seen an old 
 female lead the herd, and on such occasions I have 
 always found it extremely difhcult to get within 
 range, as they are doubly cunning. 
 
 Six hours' ride over most picturesque-looking 
 country brought us to our encampment, which
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 231 
 
 Chineah had chosen close to a small mountain- 
 stream that took its source in a cavern on the side 
 of a lofty peak, which stood out in bold relief, and 
 towered high above the rest. Its rugged summit, 
 round which wreaths of white fleecy-looking clouds 
 were floating in a deep blue azure sky, had the 
 reputation of being the most likely ground to meet 
 with ibex, as from its extreme inaccessibility it had 
 rarely been trodden by man, and the game had been 
 but little disturbed. Having taken a cursory survey 
 of the mountain, in order to endeavour to form some 
 judgment as to the best side to commence the ascent 
 on the morrow, we adjourned to the tent, where we 
 found a dinner waiting to which we did ample jus- 
 tice ; and, after making a few preparations, turned 
 in soon after sunset, so as to have a good night's 
 rest previous to the morrow's fag, which we well 
 knew would prove a trying one. 
 
 Rising at dawn we found the cold severe and 
 piercing ; and, on looking out of the tent door, we 
 saw that the whole range of hills was enveloped in 
 mist, a dense white cloud entirely obscuring the 
 summit of the peak we intended to explore. This 
 was not encouraging, to say the least of it ; but to- 
 wards sunrise the vapours began to open and dis- 
 unite, and in the course of an hour portions of clouds 
 separated themselves from the main body and moved 
 slowly and majestically down the mountain, some 
 remaining stationary on its side, whilst others hung 
 suspended over the neighbouring densely-wooded
 
 232 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 ravines and valleys. Seeing that there was every 
 prospect of a fine day we set out, having each 
 selected oiir favourite rifles, Chineah only being 
 entrusted with a spare gun, whilst Googooloo, Naga, 
 and Hassan carried long ropes and short spears, 
 which were to serve us in the ascent as " Alpen- 
 stocks." For some short distance the route was not 
 very difficult, but it soon changed its character and 
 became full of obstructions ; for we had often to 
 crawl along the smooth slabs of rocks on our hands 
 and knees, and sometimes were obliged to take off 
 our sambur-skin shoes (which were made purposely 
 with very light soles) in order to get a better foot- 
 ing. The scenery was extremely wild, and a solemn 
 silence reigned around, which was only broken at 
 times by the deep gnmt of some one of the gang 
 when he came to a scarped rock or gully more diffi- 
 cult than the rest. On slopes here and there the 
 mountain's vegetation was spangled with dew-drops, 
 which sparkled like diamonds in the reflected rays 
 of the morning sun. 
 
 After a severe fag we rested on a ledge of rock to 
 take breath, and, being from constant exercise in 
 rather better training than the rest, I pushed on a 
 short distance in order to reconnoitre the ground, 
 which seemed to be getting more and more difficult 
 as we ascended. Whilst so engaged I heard a slight 
 rustle, followed by a sound like the rolling of a 
 pebble, and to my surprise saw a fine buck-sambur 
 rise from his lair, just below the boulder of rock
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 233 
 
 against which I was leaning, and gaze majestically 
 round with erected head. I noiselessly took up my 
 rifle, and, as he was leisurely trotting along the side 
 of the mountain, brought the sight to bear just be- 
 hind his massive shoulder and fired. When the 
 smoke cleared away I saw him stretched lifeless on 
 the ground, shot through the heart. The report 
 soon brought up the gang, and having little time 
 to lose, we merely hoisted our quarry — which proved 
 to be a full stag with fine branching antlers — on to 
 a huge boulder of rock, where, having fastened a 
 pocket-handkerchief to one of the tines of his horns 
 to scare away the vultures, we left him until our 
 return. After several hours' clambering over broken 
 ground, scarped rocks, and deep gullies, without 
 seeing any indication of animal life, except a few 
 butterflies, Naga called our attention to something 
 moving along the scarped edge of a high ridge of 
 clifl" which frowned like a wall high above our heads, 
 and with the aid of my field-glass I discerned a fine 
 buck-ibex, evidently the sentinel of a herd, poised 
 on a pinnacle of rock nearly half a mile distant. 
 As his head was turned toward us, and he seemed 
 to be watching our movements, I took it for granted 
 that our presence was discovered, so I told Googoo- 
 loo, Naga, and Hassan to remain quiet where they 
 
 were, whilst B , Chineah, and myself made a 
 
 detour so as to circumvent him. 
 
 After intense labour we clambered up the face of 
 the cliff", having frequently to crawl along ledges of
 
 234 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 rock overhanging precipices down which we dare 
 not look, and with a good deal of manoeuvring 
 managed to get above our wary quarry, who was 
 still apparently intently observing the movement of 
 our party below, whilst seven others, confident in 
 his watchfulness, were carelessly browsing on the 
 short crisp herbage close by. By dodging from crag 
 to crag, after some intensely-exciting stalking, we 
 crept behind an isolated boulder of rock about a 
 hundred and twenty paces to leeward of the herd, 
 who were still grazing unconscious of danger; and, 
 as the nature of the ground was such that we could 
 not hope to steal any nearer without great fear of 
 discovery, we prepared for immediate ofiFensive ac- 
 tion. Having taken the precaution of putting fresh 
 
 caps on our rifles, B aimed at a fine buck that 
 
 was carelessly receiving the caresses of a couple of 
 does, whilst I took the sentinel, and firing almost 
 simultaneously, both fell to our shots. I wounded 
 a doe with my second barrel, but it got away with 
 
 a broken leg ; B , however, was more fortunate, 
 
 for he stopped a second doe with a ball through the 
 spine, and kiUed a young buck with the second gun, 
 as it was bounding along a ledge of rocks at least 
 four hundred paces distant. " Well done, indeed, 
 Ned ! " I exclaimed, rather taken aback with this 
 splendid display of marksmanship ; " that was a 
 shot I envy you for having made, as I have rarely 
 seen a bounding deer bagged at such a distance, not- 
 withstanding I have hunted with the crack sports-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 235 
 
 man of the day. It would have gladdened old Wal- 
 ter's heart to see one of his pupils do such credit to 
 his ' bringings up.' " 
 
 " Yes, Hal, it was indeed a long shot, aiid I could 
 hardly believe my eyes when I saw him drop, but 
 the credit of it, if any there be, must be given to 
 old Purdey, the maker of your rifle ; for never do I 
 think that grooved bore threw lead so true, and I 
 now do not wonder at your luck in bringing down 
 the hatties (elephants) right and left. It 's the gun, 
 man ; it's the gun ! Look after the game, whilst I 
 pace the distance for my own satisfaction." 
 
 This was done, and it proved to be five hundred 
 and forty-six paces, or allowing for inequalities in 
 the ground, about four hundred yards. Whilst 
 Chineah was despatching with his knife the still 
 
 struggling doe that B had wounded, and 
 
 B had gone to gather up his game, I went 
 
 to look after the sentinel, which, to my surprise, 
 was nowhere to be found, although I saw him drop 
 the moment I fired, apparently lifeless. Whilst 
 looking about, I crept on my hands and knees to- 
 wards the edge of the precipice, and, lying my full 
 length, looked over, when, to my astonishment, I 
 saw the carcass on a narrow ledge of rock jutting 
 out of the scarped cleft about thirty feet from the 
 top. With the aid of my glass I could see that it 
 was a fine specimen with splendid horns, which I 
 determined, coute qui co'dte, should not be lost. 
 I scrambled carefully back, and explained the case
 
 236 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 to B , who advised me to give it up as "lost 
 
 game," it not being worth while risking life for the 
 sake of a pair of horns ; but I did not like to return 
 empty-handed, and my determination was soon taken, 
 for I despatched Chineah for the rest of the gang. 
 As soon as they arrived, I took the strong silken 
 ropes they carried, on which I made a few knots, 
 so as to enable me to get a better hold, and prevent 
 myself from slipping, then fastening one end securely 
 round the base of an immense boulder of rock, I 
 threw the other down the abyss, taking the pre- 
 caution of placing my coat and the turban-cloths 
 of some of the people over the rough edge of the 
 cliff, so as to prevent chafing. All being prepared, 
 in spite of the remonstrance of my people, who 
 feared some accident from the snapping of a rope 
 which I knew would sustain a ton in addition to 
 
 my weight, I commenced the descent, even B 
 
 turning away, as the thought made him feel giddy. 
 To me it was easy work enough, although I must 
 own that I felt rather nervous as I first swang my- 
 self off, and hung suspended over a precipice, six 
 hundred feet in depth, by a cord not three-quar- 
 ters of an inch in diameter, which, not being steadied 
 at the bottom, kept turning round and round, now 
 and then knocking me against projections in the 
 face of the rock. However, my " suspense" was of 
 very short duration, for I soon found firm footing 
 upon the ledge of rock where the dead ibex lay, 
 which luckily turned out to be much wider than I
 
 OP THE OLD "WOKLD. 237 
 
 had at first imagined from its appearance from the 
 top. I soon fastened the rope round the buck's 
 head, and on giving the preconcerted signal of a 
 whistle, he was hauled up by the gang, who again 
 threw down the cord for me. I climbed up the rope 
 easily enough, but had great difficulty in scrambling 
 over the crest, as my eyes were nearly filled with 
 sand, which fell from the sides. At last I managed 
 it, and we commenced the operation of skinning, 
 that occupied us nearly an hour, after which we 
 commenced our descent, and taking the head and 
 skin of the sambur en route arrived at the tent just 
 before sunset. During the next five days we hunted 
 over these grounds, bagging thirteen ibex and a 
 couple of bison, a herd of which animals came early 
 one morning close to our tent, after which we re- 
 turned to Ooty.
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN THE FOEEST ABOUND THE 
 BASE OF THE NEILGHEREIES. 
 
 '• Trampling his path through wood and brake, 
 And canes which, crackling, fall before his way, 
 And tassel-grass, whose silvery feathers play, 
 O'erlapping the young trees. 
 On comes the elephant to slake 
 His thirst at noon in yon pellucid spring." 
 
 The elephant-hunter's qualifications, " Mighty Hunters." — The 
 start. — The Coonoor Pass. — The trail.^ — Signs of a tusker. — 
 The herd. — A bull-elephant dies. — A cow and calf fall. — 
 The bivouac. 
 
 Any sportsman who is a fair shot, cool, steady, per- 
 severing, and active, may count upon killing heavy 
 bags of most kinds of game with tolerable certainty ; 
 but he who would slay the elephant in his trackless 
 jungle-home must have other qualities combined, or 
 he will fail in his attempt. 
 
 The elephant-hunter must have a thorough know- 
 ledjie of the nature and habits of that sagacious
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 23U 
 
 animal, whose keenly-developed senses far exceed 
 that of any other denizen of the forest; he must 
 be well acquainted with its peculiar structure and 
 anatomy, or his bullet, however true, will never reach 
 the vital part with any certainty ; he must be an 
 adept at " tracking," or following spoor, and in the 
 understanding of jungle signs, which, although a 
 natural gift to the red men of the Far West and 
 Indian jungle-tribes, is only acquired by intense 
 study and long practice ; he must be patient and 
 enduring, satisfied with hard fare and short com- 
 mons, as he will often have to subsist wholly 
 upon his gun, with the ground for his bed, and a 
 forest-tree for his canopy. He should feel with the 
 great poet, that "there is a pleasure in the path- 
 less woods," and " society where none intrudes :" 
 for he must often be content with nature and his 
 own thoughts as companions, and he must not let 
 his spirits be depressed by the solitude and intense 
 stillness of the deep jungle. 
 
 The hunter must sleep like a hare, always on the 
 alert, ever prepared and watchful ; for he never 
 knows what he may meet, or the danger a moment 
 may bring forth. Inured to peril, he must never 
 be cast down or faint of heart ; or he had better 
 not attempt to follow up the spoor of the elephant 
 to his haunts in the dense, deep jungle, where the 
 rays of the sun seldom penetrate, and the wood- 
 man's axe was never heard — where the deadliest 
 of fevers lurk in places the most beautiful to the
 
 240 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 eye ; and where, with the exception of certain times 
 in the year, the air and the water are poisoned by 
 malaria, and impregnated by the exhalations of 
 decayed leaves and decomposed vegetable matter, 
 entailing certain death to the hunter, were he 
 tempted to follow up his perilous calling out of 
 season. 
 
 Notwithstanding the danger of elephant-hunting, 
 it has ever been a favourite sport amongst the cove- 
 nanted servants and officers of the Indian army; 
 and the names of Oswall, Kogers, Godfrey, Garrow, 
 Michael, and one or two others, are " as familiar as 
 household words " throughout India, on account of 
 their numerous daring feats and perilous escapades. 
 
 Sometimes herds of elephants are tempted to 
 roam, and leave their homes in the deep jungle to 
 devastate the sugar-cane plantations and rice-fields 
 of the ryots, where they commit great damage ; and 
 on such occasions the Anglo-Indian sportsman is 
 enabled to get amongst them without being obliged 
 to penetrate the dense forests so pernicious to 
 health. 
 
 One evening, on my return to my domicile at 
 
 Ooty from a very jovial picnic given by P , a 
 
 sporting collector of Coimbatore, at the celebrated 
 Dodabetta Peak, (which rises to the height of 8700 
 feet above the plains,) Chineah, my head shekarry, 
 informed me that a party of Mulchers whom I had 
 sent out to look for game had come, up fiom the 
 low country with the news that a herd of elephants
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 241 
 
 had been seen near the Colunda nullah, a small 
 mountain-stream a few miles to the north-east of 
 the hills. 
 
 My gang did not need any orders to prepare ; for 
 as I entered the garden, I found them all assembled 
 in front of the gate in full shekar costume, ready to 
 start, and many a knowing look and broad grin they 
 gave me as I passed to don my leather hunting- 
 gear and prepare my battery and ammunition. The 
 cylindro-conical bullets of my rifle, as well as the 
 round ones I used in the smooth-bores, were made 
 of a mixture of lead and zinc, which amalgamation 
 1 prefer to any other for elephant -shooting, as 
 leaden balls are too soft, and flatten on striking a 
 bone, and brass balls, which are generally used, are 
 too light to carry truly. My preparations did not 
 take long to make, and in the course of a few 
 minutes I mounted my favourite nag, "Gooty," 
 accompanied by Chineah, Googooloo, Mootoo, and 
 the Gooroo, carrying my guns, axes, spears, tele- 
 scope, &c., a couple of Mulchers to show the road, 
 and a horse -keeper, who led a baggage- tattoo, 
 loaded with a large "combley^' blanket, which 
 served either as a covering or a tent, as occasion 
 required, a change of clothing, some prog and 
 tobacco. 
 
 The moon was favourable, being at its zenith 
 as we passed the village of Coonoor, making the 
 niglit clear as day, and allowing us to enjoy the 
 magnificent scenery of the celebrated Coonoor Pass, 
 
 Q
 
 242 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 where " fern flowers and grasses creep, fantastically 
 tangled," amid gigantic forest trees, and the grace- 
 ful bamboo contrasts with the darker foliage of the 
 wild fig, and the thickets of rhododendron and 
 wild camellias. The wave-like looking sea of deep 
 forest was diversified with white lichen- covered 
 precipices, and darkly-frowning crags of every ima- 
 ginable form and shape, some thousands of feet in 
 height, which seemed to shake their fern -fringed 
 foreheads at the passing traveller as he followed 
 the winding road leading down the ravine, every 
 bend of which, like a turn of the kaleidoscope, re- 
 vealed something new and pleasing to the eye. 
 
 Upon the summit of a rugged and almost inac- 
 cessible peak, which cast its dark shadow on our 
 path, is the small hill-fort, Hulli kul Droog, built 
 by Hyder All, which long since has been abandoned 
 to the birds and beasts of the forest. 
 
 As I rode along I frequently heard the sharp bark 
 of the elk above the murmur of the mountain-stream, 
 which glistened like silver in the rays of the moon 
 as it glided over rounded masses of granite and 
 smooth angular pieces of green stone, or, leaping 
 in little cascades, dashed foaming down the steep 
 ravine ; and at times I distinguished the distant 
 hoarse roar of the tiger reverberating through the 
 woods, which was immediately followed by a dismal 
 howling chorus from a troop of jackals. 
 
 It was past midnight when we arrived at the 
 bungalow at Metrapolliam, a village on the right
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 243 
 
 bank of the river Bowanl, and after a few hours' 
 repose, started for the place where the elephants 
 were said to be, just as the first streaks of gray in 
 the east proclaimed the dawn of day ; and after a 
 tramp of about twelve miles, some part of the way 
 through very dense jungle, we arrived at the huts 
 of a Mulcher tribe, where I left my horse and 
 baggage-pony under the care of the horse-keeper. 
 They could hardly make their way through the 
 bush. 
 
 The Mulchers gave us to understand that the 
 herd could not be at any gr-at distance, as some of 
 their tribe had seen them the evening before, in a 
 valley close to the foot of the hills, and they had 
 been heard trumpeting during the night. 
 
 "We rested for an hour, and broke our fast by the 
 side of a beautiful little stream, which we followed 
 for some distance, when the Mulcher who served as 
 our guide pointed out to us the spoor of an elephant 
 about three days old, and shortly afterwards we 
 came upon the trail of a herd of eight, which I 
 made out to be about twenty-four hours old. 
 
 It was now noon, and the rays of the sun were 
 intensely hot, so we sat down for an hour under a 
 tree, whilst the Gooroo and the Mulcher went to 
 consult with some of the tribe, whom he had left 
 watching the movements of the herd. They re- 
 turned shortly, accompanied by two other Mulchers, 
 who informed us that they had seen a herd, con- 
 sisting of a tusker, eight females, and some young
 
 244 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 ones, passin!]j over one of the lower spurs branching 
 off the Neilgherries the evening before ; and under 
 their guidance we soon came upon their trail, which 
 consisted of several footprints of all dimensions, from 
 six to twelve or fourteen inches in diameter. 
 
 I held a brief consultation with the gang, and it 
 determined nem. con. to follow up the spoor as 
 expeditiously as possible ; so we continued on trail 
 through dense jungle, over hills, and almost im- 
 penetrable ravines, until the sun had almost sunk 
 below the western horizon, when we collected some 
 dry logs, made a fire to keep off the tigers, &c., dis- 
 tributed some provisions and tobacco, and turned 
 in, two keeping watch by turns whilst the others 
 slept, until the moon had risen high enough to enable 
 us to see the spoor, and continue the pursuit. 
 
 A sloth bear {Prochilus lahiatus) and a half- 
 grown cub were descried by the Gooroo as we went 
 along, and a bull-bison was heard bellowing in a 
 thicket close by ; but we left them unmolested, 
 continuing our course by the track made by the 
 herd bursting through the jungle and treading 
 down the brushwood otherwise impenetrable. Huge 
 boughs and branches had been broken off, and trees 
 uprooted or torn up in their passage ; in places 
 they had remained for some time browsing on the 
 young wood, tender branches, and succulent plants, 
 and as we passed a watercourse, it was evident from 
 the marks that some of their number had been 
 rolline: in the sand.
 
 OF THE OLD WOELD. 245 
 
 Here it was I made sure that there was a bull in 
 the herd with large ivories ; for I perceived marks 
 in the bank where he had thrust his tusks under the 
 root of a large jungle-tree, covered with creeping 
 oleaster, full of rich bunches of sour scarlet plums, 
 which had resisted all his efforts to tear up. 
 
 I saw, from the freshness of the spoor and other 
 traces which remained, that we had gained very con- 
 siderably upon the herd, and as we all felt rather 
 fatigued, we lay down to repose for a couple of 
 hours, continuing our course when the day broke. 
 
 Towards noon, after crossing several densely- 
 wooded ravines and rocky hills, where the elephant, 
 in spite of his great weight, scarcely leaves any trace, 
 the spoor being only indicated by a broken leaf, 
 bruised twig, or a lately-upturned stone, we entered 
 some thick bamboo jungle, and here we found a 
 " jheel," or swamp, where they had remained during 
 the night, and which bore traces of having been very 
 recently occupietl The trail was warm. 
 
 Being inspired with fresh vigour, fatigue was for- 
 gotten, and after having made our way through a 
 wide ravine, and crossed a stony watercourse, where 
 the spoor was certainly not an hour old, at about 
 three o'clock in the afternoon, we began to ascend a 
 long ridge of low rocky hills — a difficult route, one 
 would think, for such unwieldy-looking animals, but 
 the spoor was plain, so on we went ; and after an 
 hour's clambering up a steep and rather difficult 
 ledge of rocks, we arrived at the summit, where I had
 
 2i6 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 the indescribable pleasure of beholding the broad 
 backs of the objects of our search, who were quietly 
 browsing, unconscious of danger, under the shade of 
 some tall forest trees. I sent Mootoo, the Gooroo, 
 and the Mulchers, to a high peak, by a circuitous 
 route, from whence they would be enabled to watch 
 the movements of the herd, should they take alarm. 
 After resting for a few moments to reconnoitre the 
 ground and take breath, and having tried the wind, 
 which was favourable, a light air blowing from them 
 to us, I carefully examined my guns, ascertained 
 that the powder was well up in the nipples, and then 
 stole gently forward, taking advantage of any cover 
 or undulation I could find, until I got behind a thick 
 tree, with a patch of low bush at the foot, from 
 whence I could distinctly see the herd about sixty 
 yards distant. The tusker was standing on three 
 legs, swinging his huge carcass to and fro, and 
 fanning himself with the branch of a tree, which he 
 held in his trunk, and near him two females were 
 reposing, whilst several others were standing a short 
 distance off. 
 
 I remained a few minutes to make sure that I was 
 well to leeward, and not in any immediate danger of 
 being discovered by their remarkably keen scent, 
 and then making signs to Googooloo to remain con- 
 cealed, I crept forward with my rifle, followed by 
 Chineah, carrying my other two big guns. 
 
 After some very careful and exciting stalking I 
 reached a tree about thirty paces from the group,
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD, 247 
 
 which, unconscious of our approach, were still in the 
 same position, and taking a moment to draw breath, 
 and wipe my eyes from the perspiration which 
 streamed down my forehead, I crept under the cover 
 of some low bush to a clump of bamboos, within 
 pistol shot of the tusker ; which I had hardly 
 reached when I saw that I was discovered, for one 
 of the females sprang up suddenly with a strange 
 wild cry, and rushed a few paces forward, tail on end. 
 The bull also made a simultaneous movement, 
 stretching out his trunk with a grunt to catch the 
 wind, and giving me a fair shot — not a second was 
 to be lost. I threw up my rifle, took a deliberate 
 and steady aim at the hollow above the trunk, 
 (which is about the size of a saucer,) in the centre of 
 his forehead, and pulled the trigger. A heavy fall 
 immediately followed, but before the smoke had 
 cleared away, and I could see the result of my shot, 
 the female rushed frantically forward, nearly cap- 
 sizing me in her course, and tore up a wild date 
 within three yards of the spot where I was standing. 
 
 As she did not appear, however, to notice me, but 
 went off trumpeting in an opposite direction to that 
 taken by the rest of the herd, I did not molest her 
 at the time, for I felt too anxious to secure the 
 tusker, whom I found stone-dead, with his fore-legs 
 doubled under him, his hind ones stretched out, and 
 his tusks deeply embedded in the ground with the 
 fall. 
 
 I had hardly made sure of his being dead when
 
 2 iS THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 Googooloo called my attention by a signal, and turn- 
 ing round I saw my quondam friend, the female who 
 gave the alarm, helping a young one over some rough 
 ground about a couple of hundred yards distant. 
 As she was going off at a shuffling trot that forbade 
 any hope I might have of overtaking her, I took a 
 steady aim at the young one, hitting it severely and 
 rolling it over. The smoke had hardly cleared 
 away, and I had just snatched a loaded gun from 
 Chineab, (who ran like a cat up a tree,) when down 
 she came on me with a hoarse roar of vengeance. 
 I let her charge to within twenty paces from me, 
 when I gave her a right and left full in the fore- 
 head, which stopped her career and brought her to 
 her knees, and Googooloo, who stood steadily by my 
 side, handed me my second gun, with which I gave 
 her a "finisher" as she was attempting to regain 
 her legs. A convulsive tremor passed over her 
 body, and all was still. 
 
 I reloaded the guns, and despatched the young 
 one, which could hardly drag itself along, and as 
 there was no other tusker in the herd, I did not care 
 to follow it up further, so I gave directions to 
 Chineah and the rest of the gang, who came up, to 
 build a hut, whilst I and Googooloo went out to try 
 and kill a deer for food ; but after a hard fag our 
 only bag was a large porcupine, a peafowl, a wild 
 cat, and three black monkeys, which latter proved 
 very acceptable to the Mulchers. 
 
 On my return to the gang, I found a very com-
 
 ^ ^
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 249 
 
 fortable hut constructed, a soft bed of leaves pre- 
 pared, and a tolerably savoury dish ready for me, 
 consisting of an elepliant's foot baked in a paste of 
 clay amongst the embers ; after having partaken of 
 which, a large fire was made, and we all sat round 
 enjoying " tiie fragrant narcotic weed," whilst the 
 Gooroo and Chineah by turns chanted an extempo- 
 rary song in a very monotonous tone, commemorat- 
 ing the exploits of the day, and all the rest took up 
 the chorus. 
 
 Being very tired, and perhaps not musically in- 
 clined at the time, I fell asleep, and did not awake 
 until broad daylight the next morning, when I found 
 the gang busily emj^loyed with their axes in cutting 
 out the tusks, which weighed ninety-four pounds the 
 pair. This job took them about six hours, so that it 
 was nearly noon before we commenced our home- 
 ward route, and late at night when we arrived at the 
 Mulcher huts, where we had left the horses. There 
 we slept, returning to Ooty the night afterwards.
 
 CHAPTER XVir. 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN THE ANNAMULLAY FOREST. 
 
 Coimbatore. — News of elephants. — A Poojah to propitiate the 
 Hindoo deities meets with no satisfactory results. — A court- 
 martial held on the recusant Sawmy. — Sentence and execu- 
 tion. — The ghost of the injured Sawmy appears to the Gooroo. 
 — His threat. — The laying of the spirit. — Result obtained. — 
 
 The start. — M 's hut at Tunnacuddoo. — His hospitality. 
 
 — A bison wounded. — Taketty. —News of a herd of elephants. 
 — Our bivouac. — A night alarm. — Elephants astir. — A bull- 
 elephant yields up his spoils. — An immense snake caught. — 
 We follow up the spoor of the herd. — Beautiful forest scenery. 
 — Tracking by torchlight. — Difficulties surmounted. — We 
 swim a nullah.— The trail.— The herd in view.— A bull 
 elephant anchored. — A second tusker wounded. — A charge. — 
 A predicament.— A lucky shot decides the day.— The result of 
 a pat from an elephant. 
 
 Coimbatore has ever been considered one of the 
 most desirable of our miKtary cantonments in 
 Southern India, not only on account of its proximity 
 to the Neilgherry and Annamullay Mountains, and 
 its comparatively cool and salubrious climate, but 
 because it is a single station, where one regiment 
 only is quartered, consequently the duty is extremely
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 251 
 
 light, and " leave " easily attainable. The town itself 
 stands about 1400 feet above the level of the sea, 
 in dry, well-cultivated country ; is neatly built, and 
 consists of twelve wide and well-ventilated streets. 
 Tippoo Sultan, the Rajah of Mysore, occasionally 
 resided in the old palace, the ruins of which are 
 still standin(]j, and built a handsome mosque. 
 
 The officers' quarters are substantially built and 
 delightfully situated outside the native town, by a 
 lake three miles in length, which in the season is 
 covered with waterfowl of every description, and in 
 the reeds and paddy-fields adjoining snipe are to be 
 found in thousands. To the lover of large game 
 this station offers peculiar advantages, as the virgin 
 forest jungle surrounding the Neilgherry and Anna- 
 mullay ranges are celebrated as being the haunts of 
 all kinds of large game, besides containing abund- 
 ance of teak, (Sectona grandis^ blackwood, {Dal- 
 hergia satifolia, boxwood,) sandal-wood, (Santalum 
 album,) and other valuable timber, which is, how- 
 ever, unfortunately too remote from water-carriage 
 to permit of easy exportation. 
 
 The end of December (when the north-east mon- 
 soon rains are over, and the sun has gained his most 
 southern declination) may be considered the coldest 
 season of the year in all those countries north of the 
 equator, for at this period the range of the ther- 
 mometer in the shade is from sixty-two to eighty 
 degrees, and the climate is there delightful, the 
 north-east wind proving enlivening and bracing,
 
 252 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 and at this time the jungle is considered free from 
 fever, the greatest danger to which the Indian sports- 
 man is exposed. 
 
 1 had left my eyrie, " Burnside Cottage," near 
 Ooty, having received information that a herd of 
 elephants were said to have been seen near one of 
 the collector's spice -gardens in the Bolanputty 
 
 Valley, and was staying with M , who was in 
 
 the regiment then quartered at Coimbatore, whilst 
 my gang went out to gather intelligence. After 
 an absence of five days they returned, their search 
 having proved a blank, no fresh trails having been 
 discovered. 
 
 As was my general custom before the departure 
 of my gang on an expedition, I had distributed 
 some few rupees to purchase sheep, fowls, &c., for 
 sacrificial offerings to their "Sawmies," so as to 
 propitiate the deities, and bring good luck on the 
 enterprise, and on this occasion it appears that the 
 non-success of the reconnaissance had excited the 
 indignation of the whole gang against a certain 
 stone image of Haniman (the monkey-god) in the 
 neighbourhood of the lake, as sheep had been sacri- 
 ficed, cocks immolated, cocoa-nuts broken, and in- 
 cense burnt before him, and yet the search for game 
 had proved a failure. 
 
 I was enjoying a weed after dinner with M 
 
 and B , when loud discordant vociferations were 
 
 heard in the servants' outhouses, and going out to 
 see what was the matter, we found the whole gang
 
 OF THE OLD WOPwLD. 253 
 
 holding a court-martial on the recusant Sawmy ; 
 to which we listened, keeping out of sight. The 
 Gooroo was gesticulating in an extraordinary man- 
 ner, and holding out somewhat in this style : — 
 " Soono, Bhai, (listen, brothers,) here we are all very 
 tired, with our feet broken, and our legs and arms 
 full of thorns with tramping for five days through 
 the jungle, and all to no purpose, for the elephants — 
 may their fathers be burnt ! — were not to be found, 
 and we had to come back, ' with blackened faces,' 
 before the gentleman and ' eat dirt,' (literally, get 
 abused.) Is not this vile conduct on the part of 
 that monkey-faced Sawmy, to whom we went to 
 the expense of offering sacrifices of sheep and cocks ? 
 Are we to suffer him to laugh at us in our trouble, 
 and throw dirt on our beards in this manner ? No, 
 brothers, we will pay him out. Heigh ! Ali Beg, 
 you are a Mussulman, and do not fear the evil eye 
 of a Hindoo Sawmy, so take the cursed son of 
 burnt fathers and defiled mothers who has dared to 
 bring all this evil upon us, cast dirt upon our 
 beards, and make the master turn his face away 
 from us, break off his nose and ears, put out his 
 eyes so that he can never find his way back, and 
 fling him into the lake." Tlie whole gang highly 
 approved of this sentence, and amidst the hootings, 
 groans, and expletive execrations of the party, the 
 image was dug up from the spot where it had per- 
 haps rested for centuries, and after having been 
 mutilated by Ali Beg, and subjected to the vilest
 
 254 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 abuse and ridicule, was thrown in the lake ; none 
 of the Hindoos, however, venturing to lay a finger 
 upon it. 
 
 We slipped quietly away without any of the gang 
 discovering our presence, and after turning over the 
 aifair in my mind, knowing the character of my 
 people, I resolved to work upon their superstitious 
 fears to my own advantage ; and some few days 
 afterwards, whilst out deer-stalking, I watched an 
 opportunity, when the Gooroo was separated from 
 the rest of the gang, and approaching tolerably near 
 unperceived, hid myself under a large mass of para- 
 sitical plants, and called out in a disguised low 
 sepulchral voice, "0 Perriatumbie, Perriatumbie ! " 
 (his real name, " the Gooroo," being a cognomen 
 given to him by the gang, on account of his having 
 some pretensions to priestcraft and sorcery,) am I 
 not the god Haniman, whom you and your wretched 
 associates caused to be defiled and thrown to the 
 bottom of the tank ? I am not dead, as you will 
 find, although I have been eight days in the water ; 
 I can see you, although Ali Beg tried to put out my 
 eyes ; I can hear, although my ears are disfigured ; 
 I can smell your vile carcass, although the end of 
 my nose is ofi"; and I can hardly keep my hands 
 away from your throat, although they are maimed." 
 At the first sound of my voice the Gooroo tried to 
 make a bolt, but in his mad terror he stumbled over 
 the ro©t of a tree, falling heavily his whole length 
 on the ground, when he began writhing about in a
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 25 o 
 
 convulsive manner, as if wrestling with some ima- 
 ginary enemy, groaning and keeping his face covered 
 with a cloth. Taking advaiitage of his terror, I con- 
 tinued in the same tone of voice, " Perriatumbie ! 
 are you not ashamed of having so ill-used your 
 good Sawmy Haniman ? Did you not tie seven 
 tails of male elephants shot by your master as a 
 lignum (the sacred thread worn round the body 
 Duly by the Brahmins) round the image of that pert 
 god, Ganesea ? Perriatumbie ! my evil eye will 
 always be upon you, and the rest of those who ill- 
 treated me, to work you evil, until I have also a 
 lignum of elephant tails on me, and my wounds are 
 anointed with the fat and blood of many tigers. I 
 want no sacrifices of sheep and cocks, for the price 
 of them comes out of the pocket of your master, on 
 whom be blessings and good luck, for he never did 
 me any harm, and must not suffer for your ill- 
 doings. Go and show him the fresh trails of ele- 
 phants and tigers, that ho may kill them, and bring 
 me their spoils as offerings, that I may not destroy 
 you all, as your crimes deserve." I then stole 
 quietly away and joined the rest of the gang, but in 
 the course of half an hour I saw the spell had begun 
 to work, for the people collected in groups, and 
 whispered mysteriously to each other ; and every 
 now and then tlie names of Haniman and the 
 Gooroo caught my ears, which proved that a great 
 sensation had been caused by this supernatural 
 visitation, which I increased to an awfully exciting
 
 256 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 pitch by telling them that as I was passing an 
 aspen-leaved peepul (a sacred tree among the Hin- 
 doos) I heard a sweet voice, like that of a young 
 girl, exclaim, " Why, master ! do you hunt in 
 these jungles, when the elephants, bound by fate, 
 are waiting for you on the Annamullay Mountains, 
 where you can now follow them well, as there is no 
 fever?" And that, although I looked everywhere 
 to find whence the voice proceeded, I saw no one 
 except an old, queer-looking black monkey, which 
 hobbled away out of my sight in a moment. I 
 told this tale with the greatest gravity and com- 
 mand of countenance, and the effect was prodigious 
 — ^the whole gang instantaneously exclaiming, shak- 
 ing their heads, and nodding significantly at each 
 other, that the voice had only spoken truth, and 
 that we had better immediately prepare for an 
 expedition to that part of the country. This was 
 all I wanted ; for although at this season of the 
 year the jungle is said to be free from fever, such 
 was the dread of the deadly effect of the malaria of 
 those trackless and unknown forests, that up to this 
 I could never bribe or induce any gang to undertake 
 any very lengthened expedition in those parts, not- 
 withstanding it was known that elephants swarmed, 
 and large game of all kinds was abundant. Hav- 
 ing, therefore, attained my object by working upon 
 their credulity and superstitious fears, "I struck 
 whilst the iron was hot," and having consulted with 
 B , who proposed to accompany me, the mor-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 2o / 
 
 row was destined for preparation, and the day after 
 for departure. 
 
 During the night I heard the shrill notes of the 
 cholera horn and other discordant Hindoo music, 
 and my head servant, Yacoob Khan, a Mussulman, 
 informed me that the gang had that evening fed 
 twenty Brahmins, and that they were then perform- 
 ing Poojah (religious ceremonies) in honour of the 
 god Haniman. The next morning, on my way to 
 the racket-court, as I passed by the lake, I saw the 
 image of the god in its original position, decked 
 out with wreaths of jessamine, and other fragrant 
 flowers, and gaudily painted with yellow ochre and 
 tinsel. Some of the gang must have had a cool dip 
 during the night, for the water was deep where the 
 idol was thrown in. 
 
 We were very busy all the next day in getting 
 supplies, casting hardened bullets, and arranging 
 our baggage, all of which was carried on ponies or 
 coolies' shoulders, and in the evening, as soon as the 
 moon rose, the traps started, escorted by the gang, 
 for Annamullay, a considerable village about five 
 miles from the ghaut or pass leading up the moun- 
 tain. B and I rode on at daybreak, and passed 
 
 the greater part of the day in hunting up villagers 
 who knew something of the hills, in which search, 
 through the agency of the curnum, or head police 
 authority, we were tolerably successful, as we secured 
 the services of three men, whose employment was 
 hunting in the deepest jimgle for cardamums. Un- 
 
 K
 
 258 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 der their guidance, we ascended the mountains by 
 a steep pass, extremely difficult for our baggage- 
 animals, and after a hard day's fag, arrived at the 
 
 hut of M , the celebrated elephant shot, who had 
 
 established his head-quarters on a little clearing he 
 had made in the heart of the jungle close to the 
 Tuunacooddoo waterfall. 
 
 He is the Government agent appointed to collect 
 the revenue of this wild district, and also superin- 
 tendent of the teak-forests, no tree being allowed to 
 be cut without the payment of a certain tax. The 
 timber when felled is allowed to remain on the 
 ground a certain time to season, after which it is 
 dragged by elephants, who are trained for the pur- 
 pose, down slopes and slides of the mountain to the 
 low country, were it is collected, and floated down 
 the Ponani Kiver to the town of Ponani, on the coast, 
 from whence it is embarked for Bombay, where 
 aiuch is exported for the purposes of ship-building. 
 
 M received us with great hospitality, and gave 
 
 me a map of his explorings in the surrounding forest. 
 He also deputed six Carders (some people of a wild 
 jungle tribe he has domesticated) to accompany us 
 in our trip. We lighted a huge box-fire outside his 
 hut, and had a good warm, for the night was very 
 chilly ; after which we dined, had a " jaw " as to 
 our future proceedings ; and turned in. 
 
 The next morning went out after bison, soon 
 found a fresh trail, and M got a shot, wound- 
 ing a bull, which was found dead some days after by
 
 OF TUE OLD WORLD. 250 
 
 the Carders. He recommended us to go to Taketty, 
 and there build a hut as head-quarters, as it was a 
 famous place for elephants, he having killed five 
 tuskers near there atditferent times. As the jungle 
 was impenetrable for our baggage-animals on the 
 top of the mountains, a part of the gang had to go 
 down into the low country, and ascend the moun- 
 tains again by a different ghaut. They, however, 
 managed to do this in one day, arriving at Taketty, 
 which consists of three or four wood-cutters' huts, 
 just before sunset. 
 
 The next day the gang constructed two huts, one 
 for ourselves, and the other for our servants and the 
 ponies, which would have been taken away by tigers 
 in the night had we left them picketed outside. 
 
 M having some magisterial duty to perform in 
 
 the low country, could not accompany us, so we bade 
 hiui adieu, and, under guidance of some of his Carder 
 tribe, joined the gang, whom we found very com- 
 fortably established. The next day, sent down into 
 the low country for six bullock-loads of rice and 
 curry stuff, a dozen sheep, a couple of milch goats, 
 and a gross of fowls, for whose reception we pre- 
 pared places ; after which we made a reconnaissance 
 of the jungle lound about our hut, near which sev- 
 eral old elephant spoors were distinctly visible, and 
 one of the wood-cutters, who accompanied us, told 
 us that some of his people had seen a herd a short 
 distance from their huts at Cawderpuddy, where tin-}- 
 were engaged in cutting timber two days previously.
 
 260 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 I therefore arranged with B , who was suffer- 
 ing from dysentery, and hardly fit for hard work, 
 that I should start with Chineah, Googooloo, and 
 two others of the gang, ear^y on the morrow, to 
 reconnoiti^e, leaving him, with the rest of the people, 
 to get everything ship-shape in the huts. Accord- 
 ingly, at daybreak we started, under the guidance 
 of the wood-cutter, and a couple of Carders carrying 
 axes, provisions for three days, and large comblies, or 
 goats'-hair blankets, to serve as coverings. 
 
 We soon arrived at Cawderpuddy, where we found 
 about twenty men engaged in cutting timber. Here 
 we learned that a herd of fifteen elephants, amongst 
 which were two tuskers, had been seen quietly 
 browsing in a valley some three miles off*, the morn- 
 ing previous, by some women, who had gone there 
 to pick " barjee," a kind of wild spinach, and for 
 the inducement of some tobacco one of the men 
 offered to show us the spot. After a couple of 
 hours' fag through thickish jungle, we came upon 
 an open glade, at one end of which was a swamp, 
 where a sounder of hog were wallowing, and here 
 we found the trail of a large herd, not many hours 
 old, which we followed until the sun began to get 
 low in the horizon, when, arriving at a watercourse, I 
 eave the order to halt and prepare the supper, whilst 
 I looked out for a suitable place to pass the night. 
 
 Being an old forest-ranger, and used to camping 
 out, I was not very particular, my great object being 
 to secure a flank defence, so as to avoid the possi-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 261 
 
 bility of being taken unawares by wild beasts ; and 
 a dry bed of sand, under a high shelving bank, from 
 which projected two high boulders of rock, about 
 ten feet apart, seemed to offer a natural fortress, as 
 by making a huge fire in front we were unassailable 
 from without. Chineah and Googooloo spread one 
 of the comblies over two bamboos, so as to form a 
 kind of awning to shelter us from the dew, whilst 
 the Carders collected heaps of dry leaves for our 
 beds, and a sufhcient stock of logs to keep a large 
 fire burning throughout the night. Our supper, 
 consisting of curry and rice, was soon ready, and 
 discussed ; a cheroot followed, after which the watch 
 was set, arms carefully examined, and we turned in 
 for the night, every one rolled up in a combley 
 blanket. 
 
 I had slept for some hours, when suddenly I was 
 awakened by Chineah laying his hand on my 
 shoulder, with a significant low whistle, which 
 signal with the gang denoted that "something is 
 stirring." I immediately sprang to my feet on the 
 alert, and, after listening attentively for a moment, 
 heard a loud crackling of bamboos, as if some large 
 animals were forcing their way through the jungle, 
 accompanied by a curious blowing noise, which at 
 first I thought was the grunting of a bull-bison, 
 but shortly afterwards I distinctly recognised the 
 " trumpeting " of elephants, and the continual crash- 
 ing of trees at no great distance left no doubt on my 
 mind but that a herd was near at hand. I put fresh
 
 202 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 caps on my guns, for fear the old ones might have 
 been injured with the dampness of the night air, and 
 taking Chineah (on whose pluck I knew I could 
 fully depend) with me to carry my spare guns, I 
 cautioned the rest to lie quiet until my return, and 
 sallied forth to reconnoitre, 
 
 A full moon was nearly at its zenith, so that, 
 except where the foliage was very dense, or under 
 the deep shade of the mighty forest, we had no diffi- 
 culty in discerning our way, guided by the strange 
 noises and frequent crashing and rending of trees, 
 which sounded at times almost as loud as the report 
 of musketry, as these huge denizens of the forest 
 rushed through the thickets, snapping and tearing 
 up everything before them. 
 
 As we were going along, I heard a rustling and a 
 low hissing, and I felt rather startled by seeing a 
 liuge snake, which appeared to be of the boa species, 
 coiled round a date-tree, close to which I had passed ; 
 as, however, it did not appear to move, I left it un- 
 disturbed, and, after a tramp of about half an hour, 
 arrived at a jheel or swamp, at one end of which 
 was a large pool, where three elephants were amus- 
 ing themselves by sucking up the water in their 
 trunks and spouting it into the air or over their 
 bodies. After a careful reconnaissance I made sure 
 there was no tusker among them, so I left them un- 
 molested, and crept gently round the shady edge of 
 the cover, taking care to keep well to leeward, so as 
 to prevent their getting wind. Passing the swamp,
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 2(;3 
 
 I entered a rather open baniboo-junc,4e, when, from 
 the peculiar noises on all sides, I knew I was in the 
 middle of a laruje herd. 
 
 I saw several groups of females browsing about, 
 and threaded my way amongst them, with Chineah 
 close at my side, keeping a sharp look-out for a 
 tusker. We were several times very nearly dis- 
 covered, although we kept in the shade as much as 
 possible, and always strove to get to leeward. I had 
 counted sixteen elephants without having distin- 
 guished any with tusks, when my attention was 
 arrested by hearing a low grunt, and on turning a 
 cover of dense thicket, I perceived a stately bull, 
 with a fine pair of " ivories," swinging himself to 
 and fro, whilst a female was caressing his neck with 
 her trunk. 
 
 I stole gently forward, closely followed by Chi- 
 neah, and, after a little careful and exciting stalking, 
 managed to conceal myself behind a clump of bam- 
 boos near which he was standing, which fortunately 
 was to leeward. I remained without stirring for a 
 few moments, the bull not giving me the chance of 
 a fair shot, altliough I could have doubled up the 
 female half a dozen times over, as I got a full view 
 of her forehead within fifteen paces. At last he 
 swerved round, fronting me, but his head turned 
 towards the female, who just at this moment seemed 
 to have caught scent of us, for she raised her trunk 
 in a very inquisitive manner, and tore down one of 
 the bamboos in front of us. No time was to be lost ;
 
 2G4 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 I cave a shrill whistle, which caused the bull to 
 extend his ears, and turn his head in my direction, 
 presenting me with a full view of his forehead. 
 Now was my time ; I took a steady aim between 
 the eyes, and gave him both barrels, right and left, 
 at a second's interval. A hoarse scream followed 
 the report, awakening the echoes of the forest, the 
 huge beast staggered back a couple of paces, and 
 reeled like a drunken man, then his sturdy legs 
 gave way under him., and he sunk to the ground in 
 a kneeling position. I snatched a second gun from 
 Chineah, and fearing he might only be stunned, 
 stepped up to him, and sent a ball crashing into his 
 eye, but it was not required, he never stirred, he 
 was dead. The female who was with him rushed 
 frantically through the jungle, trumpeting, and the 
 rest of the herd, taking alarm, dashed down a 
 densely crowded valley at a pace which defied 
 pursuit. 
 
 Chineah cut off the tail as a trophy, and after 
 we had examined our prize, whose tusks appeared 
 to weigh heavily, we rejoined the rest of the gang, 
 who were anxiously awaiting our arrival, and once 
 more rolling ourselves in our blankets were soon in 
 the arms of Morpheus. 
 
 He who sleeps with a forest tree for his canopy, 
 a stone for his pillow, and the ground for his bed, 
 is not likely to play the sluggard, and I was up and 
 astir as soon as the soft blue light of morning 
 became perceptible along the eastern horizon. A
 
 OP THE OLD WORLD. 2G5 
 
 few hours of repose had had the desired efifect — 
 restoring both strength of body and vigour of mind 
 — I awoke full of healtli, and fit for another day's 
 hard fag. 
 
 After a hurried ablution in the nullah, I lighted 
 a cheroot, and, guided by my own footprints, pro- 
 ceeded with the gang towards the scene of last 
 night's operations. En route, I perceived the snake 
 which had so startled me in the dark, still in the 
 same place, coiled round the date-tree, evidently 
 fast asleep, in a state of repletion. I saw at a 
 glance that it was a beautifully marked " damian " 
 or rock-snake, (a kind of boa,) which is not venom- 
 ous, and I determined, if possible, to capture it 
 alive, it appearing an excellent specimen. This 
 was soon effected. Chineah fastened a slip-knot to 
 a stout bamboo, and, passing it over its head, 
 pulled, whilst some of the rest of the gang struck 
 the tail with sticks until it unloosened its coil from 
 the tree, and wound round the bamboo, to which it 
 was tied with the stalks of creepers. It proved 
 about eleven feet in length, and over a foot in cir- 
 cumference. A wicker-basket was soon constructed, 
 and in a few days it became quite tame, not attempt- 
 ing to escape when handled.* 
 
 Our captive secured, we soon made our way to 
 the spot where the dead elephant was lying, and 
 
 * The author subsequently gave it to A. Bain, Esq., of 
 Madras, who transferred it to the Liverpool Zoological Gardens, 
 where it is now, much increased in size.
 
 266 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 whilst some of the gang worked by turns with the 
 axe to cut out the tusks, (a tedious and lengthy 
 operation requiring much care,) and others pre- 
 pared our morning repast, I strolled about with 
 Googooloo, and examined the trail of the herd, in 
 order to ascertain whether there were any other 
 large tuskers in it worth following up. 
 
 Our search proved successful, for the troop was 
 evidently much larger than I had at first imagined ; 
 and we found the spoor of a very large elephant* 
 which, from the size, I concluded must be a buH 
 with weighty ivories. From the trail, which I fol- 
 lowed up for some distance, I perceived that the 
 panic occasioned by my shots, had not been general 
 among the herd, for some of them could hardly 
 have been alarmed, as they had broken off branches 
 and browsed on the young wood, within half a mile 
 from the spot where I had killed one of their 
 number. I therefore made up my mind to pursue, 
 and returned to the gang to hasten them in their 
 work, so as to be sooner on their heels. The tusks, 
 which weighed about 70 lbs. were cut out, and, 
 with the snake, given in charge of Mootoo, Verapah, 
 and three of the Carder tribe, for conveyance to the 
 hut, to which I intended to return on the close of 
 the present expedition. 
 
 After a couple of hours' tracking, we came to a 
 purling mountain stream, meandering through dense 
 forest jungle, where we filled our " mushucks," (large 
 leathern bottles,) in case of not meeting with water
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 2G7 
 
 further on, and continued our course, the spoor 
 leading along the bank. 
 
 As we advanced, the woods became more and 
 more open, here and there alternating witli beauti- 
 ful green glades, which much reminded me of the 
 park scenery of " merrie England." On every side 
 were clusters of magnificent teak-trees, interspersed 
 with peepul, jack, and acacia, their branches twined 
 with wild vines, and covered with bunches of de- 
 liciously-sweet purple, or rather nearly black, grapes, 
 many coloured convolvuli, or other beautiful flower- 
 ing parasites. It was a wild garden of Nature's 
 own planting, and, struck with the strange and 
 almost supernatural beauty of the scene, I sat down 
 to contemplate her handiwork. Every sense was 
 gratified. The eye wandered with delight through 
 numerous vistas amid the foliage, and on verdant 
 glades, diversified with parterres of orchids, in full 
 bloom, of every hue and shade, whose presence filled 
 the forest round with fragrant aroma, and loaded 
 the breeze, which was delightfully cool as it played 
 round our heated temples, with pleasant perfume. 
 The bulbul (the Indian nightingale) vied with the 
 other feathered songsters in melody, soft, clear, and 
 harmonious; and for some moments I felt so struck 
 with the transcendent beauty of the scene before me, 
 (so like what I imagine the garden of Eden must 
 have been,) that I became absorbed in thought — 
 imagination, for the time, led me away, and even 
 the elephants were forgotten : short-lived sensations,
 
 2G8 THE HUNTING GEOTJNDS 
 
 almost instantaneously passing away, for my eyes 
 soon returned to earth, and my reverie was broken 
 by Cbineali laying before me several bunches of 
 delicious grapes that grew temptingly on every 
 side. 
 
 After having rested some little time, Googooloo 
 and Naga took up the trail, and we continued the 
 pursuit. As they pressed forward, with bodies half- 
 bent and eyes gliding along the ground, they re- 
 minded one of hounds running by scent ; but, un- 
 like these, the trackers made no noise, seldom or 
 never speaking when on trail, and then only in a 
 subdued whisper. Tireless, used to constant war- 
 fare with the elements, and struggles with the wild 
 denizens of the forest, as the bloodhound loves the 
 trail so did they, and hunger, thirst, weariness, all 
 must be felt to an extreme degree before they would 
 give it up. 
 
 We continued the pursuit for many long and weary 
 hours, until at last night set in and arrested our pro- 
 gress, as the spoor was no longer to be discerned. 
 Halting simultaneously, we held a brief consultation 
 as to what was best to be done, and, after some deli- 
 beration, my gang, who were all men of jungle expe- 
 rience, and well versed in forest signs, were unani- 
 mous in their desire to follow up the trail hy torch- 
 light, for it was yet early in the night, and many 
 hours must intervene before we should have the 
 light of the moon, as it would not rise until nearly 
 midnight, and during this time the herd, which, from
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 2GD 
 
 the freshness of the spoor, were evidently not very 
 far ahead, might travel a long way. 
 
 I therefore determined to be at once on their 
 heels, and lighting a large bull's-eye lanthorn (which 
 one of the gang always carried) and branches of 
 dry resinous wood, we continued the pursuit, follow- 
 ing the trail almost as fast as before. I counted 
 that we should get over many miles before morning, 
 and perhaps even come up with the herd ; at any 
 rate, we might expect to fall in with them before 
 the next night. 
 
 Notwithstanding we were tired and hungry, we 
 did not linger, but followed up the spoor with every 
 precaution, keenly scrutinising the ground in ad- 
 vance of us, in the hope of perceiving the objects of 
 our search. 
 
 After some time we descended into a deep valley, 
 and there encountered an obstacle that proved not 
 only a serious barrier to our progress, but almost 
 brought our tracking to a termination. This was a 
 tract of dense bamboo-jungle, with thick underwood, 
 which we could hardly penetrate without the con- 
 stant use of our axes. Our lights also proved very 
 insufficient, and for several long weary hours we 
 followed the trail, the greater part of the time crawl- 
 ing on our hands and knees. At last the long- 
 wished-for moon shone forth, lighting up the forest 
 with her cheering rays. Darkness passed away, and 
 the night became clear as day. 
 
 Extinguishing our torches, on we pressed with
 
 270 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 renewed vigour. The roar of water sounded in our 
 ears from the direction towards which the trail was 
 leading us, and after a short time we came to a for- 
 midable torrent, which, freshened by recent rains on 
 the mountains, came tumbling down its rocky bed 
 in a succession of foaming cataracts. 
 
 To my surprise, I found from the spoor that the 
 herd had crossed, although by what means was not 
 evident either to myself or any of the gang, as the 
 stream,was extremely rapid and appeared too deep 
 to be forded. Here and there, amons: the boiling 
 frothing eddies, broken rocks of greenish hue were 
 seen above the surface, but they were only the crests 
 of large boulders, and between them the stream ran 
 dark and rapidly. How the young elephants, of 
 which there were several in the herd, had managed 
 to get over I could not imagine, as no swimmer, 
 however strong, could have stemmed the torrent for 
 a moment ; he must have been swept down and 
 (lashed to pieces against the rocks. 
 
 At last I bethought me that perhaps the " fresh " 
 had come down only lately, and that the herd had 
 crossed before the torrent became so swollen, and by 
 placing sticks by the edge of the. stream I found my 
 opinion was correct, and that the volume of water 
 was still increasing. This was certainly not satis- 
 factory, to say the least of it, but " Never say die " 
 was ever my motto, and we knew the elephants 
 were on the other side, and that if we intended to 
 be amongst them, we must go too. How ? was the
 
 OF THE OLD "WORLD. 271 
 
 question. To cross where we wore was imiDOssible, 
 but after some reconnoitring we found that below the 
 falls the current ran much less rapidly, forming a 
 kind of pool about a hundred yards across or more. 
 This was not the first time that either I or my fol- 
 lowers had crossed a river without a ford, and many 
 a stronger current had I stemmed in my time than 
 that then before me ; tlie only difficulty was to get 
 the guns and ammunition over dry. 
 
 After a moment's consideration, I made the gang 
 collect a number of dry logs and bamboos, and with 
 the aid of the stalks of creepers, which served as 
 ropes, I tied them together and made a small raft, 
 on which I securely tied the guns, tools, &c. I then 
 stripped, and throwing my clothes on the top, cau- 
 tiously entered the stream, and by laying hold of the 
 raft, with the assistance of Chineah and Googoo- 
 loo, pushed it before me. Plunge, plunge, plunge, 
 I heard behind me, until the last of my gang had 
 taken to the water, and was swimming silently to a 
 smooth ledge of rocks on the opposite side, where, 
 one after another, we landed, donned our toggery, 
 and made sure that our arms had not got wet ; after 
 which we clambered up the bank, and by keeping 
 along the stream soon recovered the trail. 
 
 Feeling considerably refreshed with our bath, we 
 made short work with what little cold provision we 
 had left in our wallet, and forgetting our fatigue, 
 once more pushed on at a rapid rate. 
 
 Hours rolled by, and daylight found us still on
 
 272 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 trail ; hunger, fatigue, and weariness were all for- 
 gotten in the excitement attendant on the pursuit, 
 for from the freshness of the spoor, and other un- 
 mistakable signs, we knew the herd could not be 
 far distant. 
 
 The utmost care was now necessary in following 
 up the trail, as the slightest noise might have given 
 the alarm : indeed, I felt apprehensive lest the ele- 
 phants should get wind of us, as their senses are 
 more acute in the early part of the morning than at 
 any other time. 
 
 We had crossed a broad belt of open teak-forest, 
 and were once more in dense bamboo-jungle, when 
 suddenly I saw Googooloo, who was half a dozen 
 paces ahead, make a stand and turn his head as if 
 to catch a sound ; a low grunt (a sign of satisfac- 
 tion) was followed by an expressive hiss, (his ordi- 
 nary mode of attracting attention,) and then I felt 
 as sure that game was afoot as any English sports- 
 man could be on seeing his favourite dog point. I 
 laid my ear to the ground but heard nothing, and 
 the jungle was too thick to allow me to see any 
 distance round ; I therefore carefully followed up 
 the spoor, creeping along as cautiously as possible, 
 when again one of Googooloo's peculiar sounds 
 attracted my notice, and after listening attentively 
 a few moments, I heard a distant, low, rumbling 
 noise, which I immediately recognised as being that 
 made by eleohants from the water rattling in their 
 stomach.
 
 OF THE OLD WOULD, 273 
 
 I ordered Chineah and the rest of the gang to 
 halt, and having looked to the powder in my nipples, 
 and made sure of the direction from which the 
 sounds proceeded, stole noiselessly forward, accom- 
 panied by Googooloo only, who carried a couple of 
 spare guns. AVe soon came up with the rearmost 
 of the herd, a group of five females, who were 
 browsing upon the young and tender shoots of tlie 
 bamboo and other succulent plants which abounded 
 in that part of the jungle. As they were beneath 
 my notice, I gave them a wide berth, and Googooloo 
 and I separated, in order that we might have a better 
 chance of finding the trail of a bull. 
 
 I soon came across a spoor larger than any of the 
 rest, and Googooloo not being in sight, I followed it 
 up alone. After half-an-hour's tracking, in which I 
 passed a young male and three other females, I saw 
 a huge tusker standing alone by several large boul- 
 ders of rock, against one of which he was rubbing 
 his hind-quarters. 
 
 Immediately I caiight sight of him I dived into 
 the deeper jungle, and, by making a circuitous route, 
 got well to windward of him. I then regretted that 
 Googooloo was not with me, as I had no spare gun, 
 and I felt nervous lest my prey might escape. 
 However, there was no help for it, so, after carefully 
 reconnoitring the ground, in order to avail myself of 
 any cover it afforded, I crept forward on my hands 
 and knees, and, after a few minutes' intensely ex- 
 citing stalking, managed to ensconce myself behind 
 
 s
 
 274 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 a low ledge of rock, from whence I could observe 
 every motion he made. 
 
 He was standinsj on three leo;s, the 'off hind-foot 
 being raised from the ground, and leaning carelessly 
 against the other, whilst the fore-part of his body 
 was swinging to and fro. Although he was not more 
 than twenty paces distant, I could not get a fair shot, 
 as his head was turned directly away from me. I 
 waited nearly ten minutes for a chance of his alter- 
 ing his position, during which I had ample time to 
 admire his stately proportions and magnificent tusks, 
 but he never moved an inch. I could not get round 
 in front of him on account of the wind, and as I did 
 not like to risk the chance of losing so fine a fellow 
 by an uncertain shot that might not prove mortal, 
 after a few seconds' deliberation, I determined to try 
 another plan, which, as I had not a spare gun, was 
 attended with considerable danger. 
 
 I examined the ground carefully, so as to be pre- 
 pared in case I had to make a run for it, and then 
 taking off my leathern gaiters and extraneous cloth- 
 ing, so as to have my limbs as free as possible, 
 noiselessly crept on my hands and knees behind 
 him, and placing the muzzle of my gun almost 
 close to the centre of the hind-foot which was raised, 
 I pulled both triggers almost simultaneously, and 
 sprang out of the way. A shrill shriek of agony 
 followed the double report, and I just escaped a 
 ferocious blow aimed at me with his trunk, being 
 fortunately out of reach. I ran round to the back
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 275 
 
 of the rock before I ventured to look over my shoul- 
 der, when, finding he was not on me, I re-loaded as 
 quickly as possible ; this done, I felt secure, and 
 again approached the scene of action. 
 
 I found my plan had proved completely successful, 
 for my antagonist was entirely disabled. ^My gun 
 (which was a double two-ounce smooth-bore, by 
 Westley Richards) had been heavily loaded, having 
 about six drachms of powder in each barrel ; and the 
 bones of the foot were so completely shattered by 
 the double shot, he could not put it to the ground, 
 and every time he attempted to make a step forward 
 he fell heavily. He must have suffered intense 
 agony, for he uttered most piteous cries between his 
 bursts of rage. As I approached, he strove to 
 charge with a shriek of despair, but he fell heavily 
 to the ground, and, as he was rising to his knees, I 
 stepped up and discharged both barrels into the 
 hollow over the trunk, the contents of which pene- 
 trating the brain, he fell " never to rise again." 
 
 After having taken a cursory survey of "the 
 spoils of the fallen," and made an estimate in my 
 own mind as to the probable weight of the ivory, I 
 hastily reloaded, and retraced my steps towards the 
 spot where I had left Googooloo. A shrill whistle 
 twice repeated soon brought him to my side, and I 
 learnt that my shots, being so far distant, had hardly 
 disturbed the herd, for most of them were still 
 browsing in the same place. He showed me the 
 spoor of another bull, which we followed for nearly
 
 276 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 a mile up a narrow ravine, or rather gorge, in tlie 
 mountain, where we found him drinking in a rocky 
 nullah, and accompanied by two females. After 
 having watched his movements for a few moments, 
 I saw that it was advisable to gain the opposite 
 bank, as it was much higher, and afforded good 
 cover. This I accomplished, after some trouble, for 
 the underwood was very thick, by making a cir- 
 cuitous route, crossing the stream some distance to 
 leeward, and creeping along the banks of the nullah 
 until I got behind a tree, about thirty paces from the 
 group. 
 
 Although I kept well under cover, I could see, 
 from the elephants' movements, that their suspicions 
 had been aroused, for they kept sniffing about with 
 their trunks, as if they were aware that " there was 
 something strange in the wind." 
 
 At last the bull moved forward a couple of paces, 
 and stretched out his trunk, as if to discover from 
 whence the taint in the air proceeded, at the same 
 time fully presenting his broad forehead to my view. 
 This was the opportunity I sought. I took a steady 
 aim at the vulnerable spot, just over the root of the 
 trunk, and dropped him with a single ball, like a 
 rabbit riddled with buck-shot. 
 
 The females, taken aback at the fall of their com- 
 panion, rushed trumpeting down the stream, when 
 just at this moment a cry from Googooloo attracted 
 my attention to a crashing of underwood in the 
 jungle close at hand, and I had hardly time to
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 277 
 
 snatch up my second gun as a mighty bull and 
 seven females dashed hurriedly past at a distance 
 of about fifty paces. I threw up my rifle, and, 
 aiming behind the ear, let drive a couple of snap- 
 shots for the chance of stopping him, the last of 
 which took effect, for it brought him to his knees ; 
 but he immediately regained his legs, and, separating 
 from the females, tore frantically through the forest, 
 which he made resound with his angry roar. 
 
 I snatched my second spare gun from Googooloo, 
 (a heavy two-ounce double rifle,) and, jumping down 
 the bank, ran with all speed to cut him off at the 
 gorge, which was extremely narrow, as the torrent 
 made its way between a huge cleft in the rock, 
 through which I knew he must pass in order to 
 join the rest of the herd. I was running down the 
 bed of the stream, on either side of which rose high 
 banks, when I heard a rattling noise among the 
 stones behind me, and on turning my head I saw 
 the wounded bull tearing after me, with his eyes 
 flashing fire and his tail straight on end, about forty 
 paces distant. 
 
 Speed I knew would not avail me ; he would have 
 been down upon me before I could have clambered 
 up the bank, so I swung round and dropped on my 
 knee, to take a more steady aim. 
 
 On he charged with a fiendish shriek of revenge ; 
 I let him come to within fifteen paces, when I let 
 drive, aiming between his eyes (my favourite shot) ; 
 but whether it was that I was unsteady, being
 
 278 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 breathless from my run, or that my rifle, which 
 weighed sixteen pounds, was too heavy, I know not ; 
 but my left arm dropped the moment I pulled the 
 trigger, (not from nervousness, for I was perfectly 
 cool, and never lost my presence of mind for a 
 moment,) and my shot took effect four inches too 
 low, entering the fleshy part of the root of the trunk 
 instead of penetrating the brain. It failed to stop 
 him, and before I could get out of the way the huge 
 brute was on me ; I saw something dark pass over 
 me, felt a severe blow, and found myself whizzing 
 through the air ; then all was oblivion. 
 
 When I came to, I found myself lying on my 
 face in a pool of blood, which came from my nose, 
 mouth, and ears. Although nearly choked with 
 clotted gore, a sense of my perilous situation flashed 
 across my mind, and I strove to rise and look after 
 my antagonist, but he was nowhere to be seen. 
 
 I picked myself up, and although fearfully bruised 
 and shaken, found that no bones were broken. I 
 was lying on the top of the bank, although quite 
 unable to account to myself how I got there.* In 
 the dry bed of the nullah I saw my rifle, and after 
 much painful exertion managed to crawl down and 
 get it. The muzzle was filled with sand, which I 
 cleared out as well as I could ; and then, sitting by 
 the edge of the stream, began to wash away the 
 blood and bathe my face and head. Whilst so em- 
 
 * The elephant must have flung me a considerable distance 
 with his trunk, as the bank was upwards of six feet high.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 279 
 
 ployed I heard a piercing shriek, and saw Googooloo 
 rushing towards me, closely followed by the infuri- 
 ated elephant, who was almost mad from the pain 
 of his wounds. Luckily a hanging branch was in 
 his way, and with the agility of a monkey he cauglit 
 hold of it, and swung himself up the steep bank, 
 where he was safe. 
 
 The elephant, balked of his victim, rushed wildly 
 backwards and forwards two or three times, as if 
 searching for him, and then, with a hoarse scream 
 of disappointment, came tearing down the bed of 
 the nullah. I was directly in his path, and power- 
 less to get out of the way. A moment more and I 
 saw that I was perceived, for down he charged on 
 me with a fiendish roar of vengeance. With diffi- 
 culty I raised my rifle, and taking a steady aim be- 
 tween his eyes, pulled the trigger — it was my only 
 chance. When the smoke cleared away I perceived 
 a mighty mass lying close to me. At last I had 
 conquered. Soon after this I must have sunk into 
 a swoon, for I hardly remember anything until I 
 
 found myself lying in my hut, and B leaning 
 
 over me. 
 
 It appears that Chineah and the gang had carried 
 me in on a litter, and, finding my body very much 
 swollen from the severe blow I had received, my 
 iaack being black from the waist upwards, had ap- 
 plied a native remedy, and covered the bruised part 
 with leeches, which had the effect of counteracting 
 the inflammation, although I shall carry their marks
 
 280 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS, ETC. 
 
 to the grave. As it was, I was entirely laid up, and 
 had to return to Ooty to recruit. 
 
 B sent a part of the gang to fetch in the 
 
 ivory, which altogether weighed nearly three hundred 
 pounds — not a bad bag for three days' "shekar,"
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 THE GREAT ANNAMULLAY FOREST. — TIGEE- 
 HUNTING, 
 
 Our plan of operations. — The hunting-grounds. — Preparations. 
 — The journey. — Jungle travelling. — Our bivouac. — A lonely 
 glen. — Signs of game. — The ambuscade. — Foreign signs and 
 jungle melody. — Googooloo gives tongue. — The spoiler 
 spoiled. — An unexpected rencontre. — A wounded tigress. — 
 Her retreat stormed. — Fatal accident. — Ketribution. — The 
 Shekarry's grave. 
 
 Towards the latter end of May, having become 
 somewhat weary of the commonplace routine of 
 ordinary cantonment-life in Ootacamund, I deter- 
 mined, before the monsoon broke, to have a fort- 
 night's hunting with my old chum B , in that 
 
 immense tract of virgin forest which lies to the 
 south of the Neilgherry mountains, and extends 
 over the Annamullay range, and along the Western 
 Ghauts. This region, which in the most recent 
 maps is still left blank as an " unexplored district," 
 is one continuous wilderness of mountains and dense 
 waving forest, veined with broad rivers and streams, 
 extending over an area of several hundreds of square
 
 282 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 miles, inhabited only by a few wild, uncivilised 
 tribes, said to be the aborigines of the country, who 
 for ages have shrunk from intercourse with the rest 
 of the world, living in hollow trees or caves, and 
 subsisting upon wild fruits, jungle-roots, and such 
 small animals as they can bring down with their 
 arrows. 
 
 These woods, in which the sound of an axe is 
 seldom heard, are the haunts of the largest denizens 
 of the forest. Here vast herds of elephants and 
 bison (Bos gaurus) wander through the leafy soli- 
 tudes unmolested ; and tigers, panthers, and bears 
 are so numerous, that after nightfall they may be 
 heard in different parts of the jungle howling and 
 calling to each other, with those peculiarly wild and 
 deeply melancholy intonations which appal and 
 strike awe into the hearts of those who are not 
 accustomed to such serenades. 
 
 The natives in this part of the country have a 
 strange superstition about these hunting-grounds. 
 They say that in the inmost recesses of the forest, 
 where the eye of man has never yet penetrated, 
 there is a lake, to the banks of which elephants, 
 when they feel the approach of dissolution, go to 
 die. Perhaps this popular belief may in some mea- 
 sure be accounted for by the fact, that the body of 
 an elephant that has died a natural death has rarely, 
 if ever, been found in the woods. Some say that 
 the remains of the dead are buried by their com- 
 panions in the herd.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 283 
 
 Hunting trips being every-day occurrences, but 
 little time was required for preparation either by 
 myself or my companion. I examined my battery 
 (which consisted of a pair of double rifles of ten- 
 gauge by Purdey, a pair of double smooth-bores by 
 Westley Richards, carrying two-ounce round balls, 
 and a couple of fowling-pieces), and saw that all 
 were in perfect order, and fitted with ammunition. 
 
 I then paraded my " Skekarries," or hunting- 
 gang, which comprised Chineah, Googooloo, Naga, 
 Veerapah, Hassan, the Gooroo, Ali, and Ramasaw- 
 ney, eight stalwart fellows, all well tried and true, 
 and inspected their hunting-gear, clothing, and 
 equipments, so as to make sure that all were in 
 perfect marching trim, and fit to commence a 
 jungle campaign. My baggage ponies having been 
 re-shod, then passed muster with their burdens, 
 consisting of a small hill-tent, carpet, blankets, 
 cooking-apparatus, rice-bags, &c., and finally my 
 dogs, four huge creatures, any two of which would 
 bring a bear to bay, or a hog to a standstill. 
 
 In the meantime B paid a visit to Framjee's 
 
 celebrated emporium for what the French term 
 '^comestibles," and filled out two pairs of large 
 " cowry " * baskets, with everything necessary for 
 the support of the " inner man," at the same time 
 engaging a couple of stout coolies to carry them. 
 
 All being in readiness, I gave orders to Chineah, 
 
 * Round wicker-baskets, which are slung at each end of a 
 bamboo, and carried over the shoulder.
 
 284j the hunting grounds 
 
 my head shekarry, to proceed at once, with the 
 gang, guns, and baggage, to a hut I had built on a 
 previous hunting expedition at the top of the 
 Taketty Pass, which was four marches from Ooty, 
 and there await our arrival. 
 
 Although this was the hottest season of the year, 
 the temperature on the table-land of the Neilgherry 
 Hills was rarely much over 80°, but knowing from 
 experience that it would be at least 40° higher in the 
 plains, we determined to get over that part of the 
 journey by night, in palanquins, with posted bearers, 
 so as to avoid any unnecessary exposure to the sun, 
 and get fresh to our ground. 
 
 Having made arrangements with the police Ameen 
 to this effect, on the next day but one after the de- 
 parture of our people, we left my snug little domicile, 
 Burnside Cottage, at about three in the afternoon, 
 arriving at the travellers' bungalow, in Metrapol- 
 lium, at the foot of the Coonoor Pass, by sunset, 
 dined, and afterwards proceeded to Coimbatore, 
 where we remained only a few minutes, and again 
 started for the Annamullay Hills, the base of which 
 we reached by 10 A.M. 
 
 Here, to my surprise, I found Chineah, the Goo- 
 
 roo, and one of B 's followers with our rifles, 
 
 who informed us that they had come across a couple 
 of Mulchers, (a jungle tribe,) who had taken them 
 to a ravine alive with game of all kinds, which they 
 begged we would tiy before ascending the Ghauts. 
 At first I did not care to alter my former plan of
 
 OF THE OLD WOULD. 2S5 
 
 exploring the table-lands of the Annamullay range, 
 
 but after a consultation with B , it was resolved 
 
 to follow Chineah's advice ; so, having donned our 
 hunting-gear, we dismissed our bearers, who re- 
 turned with the palanquins, to Ooty, shouldered our 
 rifles, and struck off by a jungle-track leading along 
 the base of the hills. 
 
 The heat was intense in the extreme, and we 
 perhaps felt it the more, liaving so lately left the 
 vernal freshness of the hills; but signs of game 
 were to be seen on every side, which encouraged 
 
 us to proceed, and after what B called "a moist 
 
 tramp " of nearly four hours, we arrived at the dry 
 bed of a mountain torrent, which we followed for 
 nearly three miles through a narrow gorge between 
 two densely-wooded hills. During this part of 
 our route we were entirely sheltered from the op- 
 pressive beams of the sun by overarching trees, 
 which were so densely covered with convolvuli, and 
 similar delicate climbers of every colour, as to form 
 an impervious shade overhead ; indeed it seemed as 
 if we were traversing a vast leafy bower. 
 
 At last, aftar a good hour's clambering over huge 
 boulders of granite, ledges of rock, and loose shingle, 
 we came to a bed of sand, where we recognised the 
 pugs of two full-grown tigers, and innumerable 
 slots of deer, hog, and jungle-sheep. Here, from a 
 small open glade in the forest, I got a glimpse of 
 our route, and found that we were approaching an 
 apparently insurmountable barrier of mountains by
 
 286 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 a ravine so deep that nothing but the cloudless blue 
 sky was to be seen overhead ; whilst on each side 
 frowned perpendicular cliffs and stupendous peaks, 
 so high that it strained the eye to look upwards to 
 their summits. Whilst we were admiring the im- 
 pressive grandeur of the scenery, a dull roaring, 
 like distant thunder, caught my ear, and on inquiry 
 Chineah informed me that the sound proceeded 
 from a cascade near which we were to bivouac. 
 
 Having rested for a few minutes, we again pushed 
 on, and shortly afterwards fell in with the rest of 
 the gang and a party of Mulchers, who were busily 
 engaged in the construction of a bamboo hut under 
 an overhanging rock, which formed an impervious 
 shelter against the piercing beams of the sun. 
 
 Feeling exhausted with our fag, after having paid 
 
 a visit to B 's investment in the cowry-boxes, 
 
 and partaken of sundry refreshing drinks, we re- 
 solved to look out for a suitable place for a bathe, 
 and strolled along the tortuous and winding bed of 
 the watercourse for a short distance, until we came 
 to a huge plateau of granite overlooking a wild, 
 rocky glen, or cleft in the mountain, which looked 
 as if it had been torn asunder by some convulsion 
 of nature, for on three sides rose perpendicular 
 cliffs, so high that the gigantic forest-trees which 
 fringed the scarped edge of their summits looked 
 diminutive as ferns. From the rugged side of one 
 of these giddy heights, a mountain stream came 
 aushinG: down, roaring like distant thunder, as it
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 287 
 
 fell foaming and boiling upon massive boulders of 
 rocks below, and causing a misty vapour to arise, 
 in which numberless mimic rainbows appeared and 
 vanished with magical rapidity. At the base of the 
 fall was a clear pellucid pool, about two hundred 
 yards in diameter, surrounded by live rocks of gray 
 granite, rising high above the water's edge, except 
 upon the side near which we were standing, where 
 there was a shelving bank of sand. 
 
 "What a glorious place that is for a dip, in the 
 
 shade of those overhanging rocks!" cried B , 
 
 after we had gazed for some moments upon the 
 romantic beauty of the scene. 
 
 " Yes," I replied, " if we are sure that it is not 
 infested with 'muggers/ (alligators,) but I must 
 confess I should not like to venture the first plunge 
 until I have made a careful examination of the 
 bank, for I never saw a more likely-looking spot 
 for such kind of vermin." 
 
 " You do not say so," replied he. " By Jove ! 
 how lucky it is that you are with me, for, had I 
 been alone, I should most assuredly have taken a 
 header into that clear part without ever dreaming 
 that such horrid brutes could be concealed in so 
 lovely a spot." 
 
 " I have often met with them in such places," 
 said I. " However, we can soon find out if there 
 are any trails or prints of their claws upon the 
 sand, where they are most likely to bask when the 
 sun enters the ravine at mid-day, and if we do not
 
 288 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 find any, we will send in the dogs to make sure ; 
 but until this has been done I should advise you to 
 confine your ablutions to ' chatties ' (earthen pots) 
 of water on shore." So, sending Chineah for the 
 dogs, we clambered down the rock, and strolled by 
 the sand along the edge of the water. 
 
 Here we saw the fresh pugs of two tigers, a 
 cheetah, and several bears, besides the old spoors 
 of elephant and bison, with innumerable slots of 
 different kinds of deer, including the " Sambur " or 
 black Rusa deer, commonly called the Indian elk, 
 (Rusa Aristoteles ;) the " Chetel " or spotted deer, 
 {Gervus Axis ;) and the "Muntjac" or jungle- sheep, 
 {Gervus Muntjac;) besides the marks of a sounder of 
 hog, a pack of jackals, peacocks, and jungle-fowl ; 
 but I could not distinguish any trail of alligators. 
 
 It was evident that this was the place where most 
 of the wild animals of the surrounding jungle came 
 to slake their thirst, so I determined to build a 
 moat, or place of ambuscade, on a huge isolated 
 boulder of black rock, which commanded all ap- 
 proach to the water within easy range of our rifles. 
 As the sides were scarped we had some trouble to 
 get to the top, which was covered with bush, thorny 
 brambles, and creepers, but with the aid of our axes 
 we soon cleared a space sufficiently large for three 
 or four of us to lie down at full length, on which 
 we constructed a kind of hut, by stretching a 
 "combley" blanket over poles, and covering the 
 outside with creepers, so as to make it resemble
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 289 
 
 a bush from below, leaving loopholes all round to 
 fire through ; we then manufactured a rest for our 
 rifles, and a bamboo ladder to go up and down 
 more easily, after which we carpeted the interior, 
 and furnished it with a couple of mattresses, pil- 
 lows, and sundry refreshments. 
 
 Whilst we were busy preparing our aml^iiscade, 
 a young buck spotted-deer came out of one of the 
 " runs " leading towards the water, within pistol- 
 shot distance, and was leisurely proceeding to drink, 
 when he caught sight of some of our people down 
 below, which startled him. He stopped, threw back 
 his head, pawed the ground, and coolly retraced his 
 steps, apparently but little alarmed at the sight of 
 man. Had our rifles been near at hand, he might 
 not have got back so easily, for venison is always 
 desirable, especially when there are many mouths 
 to feed. 
 
 I forbade any of our people to go near the pool 
 on the side frequented by the jungle animals, but 
 made them draw what water they required in 
 leathern buckets from the rocks, fearing lest their 
 footsteps might betray our presence. 
 
 Our work being completed, we had a refreshing 
 bath, and adjourned to the hut, where we saw the 
 stores distributed, so that each man received his 
 allowance of meat, rice, curry-stuff, "ghee," (clari- 
 fied butter,) and tobacco. 
 
 Having dined, we inspected the arrangements 
 that had been made for the comfortable housing of 
 
 T
 
 290 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 our people and baggage-animals, and then returned 
 to the ambuscade ; Chineah, Naga, and Googooloo 
 accompanying us, to keep a look-out for game, as 
 we ourselves felt too fatigued with our day's fag to 
 depend much on our watchfulness. 
 
 As a light air was blowing from us across the 
 water, and we were perfectly concealed from view, 
 some ten feet above the level of the ground, there 
 was no danger of the scent of tobacco being 
 " winded " from the jungle, so we lighted our che- 
 roots, (a most unorthodox proceeding when lying 
 in ambuscade for large game,) and amused our- 
 selves with observing the different species of animal- 
 life that frequented that lonely spot. 
 
 The margin of the lake was visited from time to 
 time by different kinds of aquatic birds and water- 
 fowl ; amongst which I noticed a flock of flamingoes 
 with their magnificent rose-coloured plumage, stately 
 pelicans, besides ibises, storks, herons, egrets, plovers, 
 sand-larks, and crows, which latter birds assembled 
 in noisy groups, and seemed to revel in the luxury 
 of a bath. A toucan, with its awkward flight, was 
 seen wending its way from tree to tree in search of 
 the reptiles and small birds on which it feeds, and a 
 jungle-cock, whose plumage gleamed like gold in the 
 rays of the declining sun, came with his consorts, 
 and scratched on the ground for food within a 
 dozen yards of our hiding-place. 
 
 Each period of the day has its accustomed visitants, 
 every hour has its " certain signs/' that can be read
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 291 
 
 and understood by those only to whom jungle voices 
 are familiar, and who, from long habit and expe- 
 rience, have been enabled to observe and mark the 
 systematic order of Nature's handiwork. 
 
 Duwng the intense heat of the day, whilst the 
 sun is still high above the meridian, all animated 
 nature seems to yield to his overpowering influ- 
 ence. A strange stillness, a profound silence, reigns 
 throughout the jungle, wdiich in early morning 
 seemed to teem with life and motion. Every living 
 creature disappears into the deepest shade of the 
 woods, in order to escape from the exhausting heat 
 and oppressive glare ; except, perhaps, the eagle, 
 hawk, and falcon, who are seen hovering overhead in 
 circles, like specks in the cloudless sky, or skimming, 
 with strange, wild cries, over the tops of the jungle 
 in search of their prey, and the green enamelled 
 dragon-flies that still flit over the water from leaf to 
 leaf. Then the sturdy hunter, overcome wdth lassi- 
 tude, suspends his toil, and seeks the grateful shade 
 of some gigantic forest tree or overhanging rock, 
 where he reposes until the mid-day heat is passed, 
 whilst his dog, also sharing in the universal lan- 
 guor which seems at that hour to oppress the whole 
 face of nature, lies panting upon the ground, with 
 his legs extended to the utmost, and his tongue 
 hanging far out of his mouth. 
 
 The weary hours roll on, and nature revives ; the 
 woods again resound with the melody of the voice 
 of birds ; butterflies of varied hue flutter across
 
 292 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 the open glades ; bees flit from flower to flower ; 
 and lustrous beetles, exhibiting metallic hues of 
 i^reen and blue, that rival the deepest shades of the 
 emerald and the sapphire, hover round in circles, 
 making a peculiar booming noise from the flutter 
 of their wings. Myriads of insects keep up a per- 
 petual hum in the solitudes of the jungle, and other 
 gentle sounds murmur softly from every side, like 
 spirits in the air, and produce an effect singularly 
 strange, soothing, and dreamy. At times, above 
 this jungle melody, may be distinguished the dis- 
 tant cry of the peacock, the shrill wild note of 
 jungle-fowl, the call of the coppersmith, the tapping 
 of the woodpecker against some hollow tree, the 
 chattering of a troop of monkeys as they pass in 
 the distance, bounding from bough to bough : the 
 peculiarly soft and melancholy note of the turtle- 
 doves, as they flutter in pairs from tree to tree ; or 
 the shrill screams of flights of paroquets, whose 
 brilliant plumage shines with exquisite lustre in the 
 light of the sun, as they dash close past, unconscious 
 of danger in their forest home. 
 
 As the day declines, birds of all kinds are seen 
 returninff homeward from their distant feeding- 
 grounds ; pelicans rise heavily on their unwieldy 
 wings from the marshes, and wend their way to their 
 nests on the highest trees in some secluded spot. 
 Flying-foxes leave the shady grove where they have 
 hung suspended during the heat of the day, and are 
 seen in numbers darkening the sky as they roam
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 29o 
 
 tlirongli the twilight; whilst multitudes of bats flit 
 about in all directions in search of the insects on 
 ■which they feed. 
 
 As the sun sets, moths of all kinds issue from 
 their retreats, and mosquitoes are constantly heard 
 buzzing about, increasing in the audacity of their 
 attacks as the night wears on. The shrill voices of 
 innumerable crickets, the croaking of frogs, and the 
 continual hum of other insects, keep up a perpetual 
 serenade long after darkness has covered the earth. 
 Then is heard the whooping of the great rock-mon- 
 keys, the bark of the elk, the mournful howling of 
 the hyena, the unearthly shrieking of jackals, the 
 trumpeting of elephants as they crash through 
 the underwood ; at intervals the distant roar of 
 a prowling tiger is re-echoed among the hollow 
 arches of the forest, as he leaves his lair, in its 
 inmost recesses, to search in the plains for prey ; 
 and great horned-owls flit past on muffled wings 
 with strange sepulchral cries, like evil spirits of 
 darkness. 
 
 All these nocturnal animals rel ui'n to their haunts 
 in the deep jungle on the first aj)pearance of dawn, 
 when the jungle-cock sounds the "rt^veille," and 
 pea-fowl are heard in all directions calling to their 
 mates. Herds of bison and deer retire slowly from 
 the open glades where they have ^iustured during the 
 night, and again seek the shade of the thick cover. 
 As hght increases, the notes of the earliest of the 
 feathered songsters are heard ; and herons, cranes.
 
 294 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 and waders, may be seen on high, soaring away in 
 the direction of their feeding- grounds. 
 
 At this early hour there is generally a cool breeze, 
 and the morning air is fresh and bracing ; but very 
 shortly the whole of the eastern horizon glows with 
 ruddy lustre, and the sun bursts forth in a blaze of 
 living light, and seems to travel on his way in the 
 heavens with much more rajiidity than in northern 
 climes. This is the moment for the lover of the 
 beautiful to see the forest, for the dew-drops on the 
 leaves and ground sparkle like brilliants, and at no 
 other time are the varied colours of the verdure so 
 vivid. The lights and shade show to the best ad- 
 vantage, and a peculiarly harmonious charm reigns 
 over the whole face of nature, which must strike 
 upon the heart even of the most apathetic spirit, and 
 make him feel, with the great poet, that 
 
 " There is a pleasure ia the pathless woods." 
 
 But I am digressing, and must return to our am- 
 buscade, where we were lying at our ease, whilst 
 Chineah and Googooloo kept watch. Numbers of 
 pea-fowl, jungle-fowl, and spur-fowl came to drink 
 from time to time, and their wild cries were heard 
 on every side of the deeply-wooded valley. Pre- 
 sently we heard the low bark of a buck-elk calling 
 to his hinds, and as the sun was sinking below the 
 horizon the roar of a tiger awoke the echoes of the 
 surrounding hills, and was immediately answered by 
 another, at no great distance from the lake. Pea-
 
 OF THE OLD WOULD. 295 
 
 fowl took up the cry on every side, and the wood 
 resounded with the voices of wild animals. Chineah 
 and Googooloo smiled grimly at each other as they 
 caught up each cry, and named the animal that it 
 came from, and each gave me a significant look as I 
 proceeded to put fresh caps on my pet rifle, which I 
 Viad previously carefully loaded. 
 
 " Yon forest music goes cheerily, Hal, and does 
 one more good than all the sol-fa-ing we have lately 
 heard at Ooty," whispered B , 
 
 " Yes, Ned, it strikes upon the heart of a ranger 
 of the woods like an old well-loved strain upon a 
 wanderer's ears ; but I imagine that we shall have a 
 view of the performers before morning, as the ]\Iul- 
 cliers say there is no other water about here nearer 
 than the Bowani, and it is evident from the pugs we 
 saw on the sand that they frequent this place." 
 
 Just at this moment we heard a movement in the 
 bushes, and an old gray monkey, evidently a scout, 
 came creeping cautiously into the plain. After 
 peering about a few moments in a very inquisitive 
 manner, seeing all appeared clear, he turned towards 
 the woods, uttering a sharp cry, and immediately a 
 whole troop of his followers came leaping and swing- 
 ing themselves from the trees, screaming, chattering, 
 fighting, and making grimaces at each other, as they 
 rushed frantically to the water's edge to quench their 
 thirst. Then, after gambolling about for a little 
 time, and picking up a few berries, they again dis- 
 appeared in the woods. Towards dusk two jungle-
 
 296 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 sheep followed, and remained for some time, but we 
 allowed them to retreat unmolested. Shortly after- 
 wards my attention was attracted by a low grunt 
 from Googooloo, whom I saw cautiously putting his 
 head forward and raising his body, so as to get a 
 better view of something, whilst he motioned to 
 Naga to hand me my rifle. 
 
 " Kya hy ? " (what is it ?) whispered I. Googooloo 
 made no answer, but still continued to strain his 
 eyes in the direction of a large low bush about 
 thirty yards from the place of our concealment, at 
 the same time making a sign with his hand for me 
 to wait. We remained for some minutes in the 
 utmost silence, all of us keeping a look-out through 
 the loopholes, but nothing was to be seen. 
 
 "Kuch na hy," (there is nothing,) at length 
 whispered Chineah, who was rather jealous of Goo- 
 gooloo's having drawn attention to a sound which 
 
 his quick ear had not caught up, and B again 
 
 laid down, fancying it was a false alarm. I, how- 
 ever, remained on the alert, having the same con- 
 fidence in the Yanadi's warning as a huntsman 
 would have when his best hound gave tongue or a 
 sportsman when his favourite dog made a dead 
 point. I had often previously trusted to his natural 
 instinct and quickness of hearing, and scarcely ever 
 found him wrong, so I kept my eye upon him, pre- 
 pared to act. Although he maintained a dignified 
 silence, I could see by the contemptuous curl of his 
 lip that he was evidently disgusted with Chineah's
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD, 297 
 
 remark and vexed at B 's mistrust ; but when 
 
 he saw, as his eye cauglit mine, that I believed in 
 him, lie gave his accustomed grunt of satisfaction, 
 and continued to peer into the dark-tangled forest 
 before us. 
 
 A few minutes passed, when he again turned his 
 head on one side, as if to drink in some fancied 
 sound, and I noticed a grim smile of satisfaction 
 illumine his expressive face as he raised both hands 
 over his eyes as if to get a better view of some- 
 thing. At this moment I cauglit sound of the light 
 crackling of a twig, and a rustling as if some ani- 
 mal was moving amongst dry leaves, and again was 
 heard Googooloo's low grunt as he pointed to the 
 bush which had before attracted his attention, whis- 
 pering beneath his breath, " Bagh hy ! " (there is a 
 tiger !) I cocked both barrels of my rifle, moved 
 noiselessly forward, and kept it pointed in the direc- 
 tion indicated, but nothing was to be seen, al- 
 though we waited for many moments in anxious 
 suspense. 
 
 Chineah, who twigged the noise this time, now 
 took the Yanadi's right hand and pressed it to his 
 own forehead, a silent acknowledgment that he had 
 been in the wrong, and from the satisfactory smile 
 that passed over Googooloo's face, I could see that 
 peace was made between the two friends and rivals 
 in " forest lore." 
 
 " Do you think it was a tiger, Hal ? " whispered 
 B . " I rather suspect it must have been a
 
 298 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 jungle-fowl scratching up the ground, or a snake 
 gliding amongst the leaves," 
 
 " It might have been the latter," I replied, " but 
 jungle-fowl are all gone to roost by this time, and I 
 have often heard a tiger or a panther steal along 
 with as little noise." 
 
 For a time an intense quiet reigned, not a leaf 
 stirred, and no sound was heard but the dull mono- 
 tonous roar of falling waters, or the plaintive cry of 
 a stray plover in search of his companions. The 
 sun had been gone down some time, and the moon, 
 which was then at the full, had not risen sufficiently 
 high for her silvery light to penetrate the deep 
 ravine in which we were. 
 
 Both B 's patience and his cheroot were well- 
 nigh exhausted, and as I saw he could hardly keep 
 himself awake, I bade both him and Chineah sleep 
 whilst Googooloo and myself kept the first watch. 
 We remained for nearly a couple of hours listening 
 anxiously to every sound that issued from the jungle, 
 and although during this time we distinctly heard 
 the growling of a bear just below us, and could dis- 
 tinguish in the gloom the dark forms of a sounder 
 of hog wallowing in the pool, still there was not 
 sufficient light to take aim, and I did not pull 
 trigger. At last the moon appeared over the 
 scarped crest of the mountain, sailing in a cloudless 
 sky — a flood of light glistened like silver on the 
 lake, and caused every object to be seen as distinctly 
 as at noon-day.
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 299 
 
 Struck with the fairy-like beauty of the scene be- 
 fore me, I became absorbed in thought, from which 
 I was roused by Googooloo laying his hand on my 
 shoulder and pointing to something standing in the 
 shade of a lofty forest tree. At the same moment 
 I heard the low short bark of a spotted deer, and a 
 fine buck with broad-spreading antlers came forcing 
 his way through the tangled brushwood, and stood 
 before us in bold relief. I threw up my rifle, 
 brought the sight to bear upon his shoulder, and 
 was just about to pull trigger when a huge monster 
 of a tiger sprang from the very bush that Googooloo 
 had been so attentively watching, and fastened upon 
 his shoulder with a low growl. Like a flash of 
 lightning my trusty rifle belched forth its deadly 
 contents right and left : a roar, a smothered whine, 
 followed the double report, and the stricken brute 
 rolling orcr and over was gasping in its last agonies. 
 A convulsive movement was succeeded by a stifled 
 groan, a moaning cry, a bubbling sound, and all was 
 still. 
 
 "Wliat have you killed, Hal?" cried B , 
 
 awakened by the shots, and cocking his rifle. 
 " Ha ! ha ! I see — a fine pair of horns too — but he is 
 not dead," he continued, raising his piece and putting 
 an end to the poor buck, who was still struggling on 
 the spot where he had been struck down. 
 
 '* Look a little to the right, Ned, under the shade 
 of the bush," replied I, " and you will see the result 
 of my shots — he felled the deer."
 
 300 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 " A y Ciller liair, by the powers ! " exclaimed 
 
 B . "Well, you are in luck ; but it serves me 
 
 right for not believing in the Yanadi's warning." 
 
 " Yes, Googooloo was not mistaken, for the tiger 
 must have been lying in wait in that bush for some 
 hours before," I replied, as I finished reloading. 
 "We then descended from our place of conceal- 
 ment, and were examining the dead tiger, when 
 Naga, whom I had sent to the hut to call up some 
 of the people to help to carry away the carcass, 
 came rushing back with fear depicted on his 
 countenance, exclaiming that he had seen another 
 tiger. 
 
 Beckoning Chineah and Googooloo to follow with 
 spare guns, we both rushed down the pathway that 
 the people had cut through the bush, as a short 
 way to the hut, in which Naga said he had come 
 face to face with the tiger, and sure enough there 
 were the pugs close to the prints of Naga's toes. 
 The tiger must have been as much astonished at 
 the rencontre as the man, for he had evidently 
 turned back, as we could tell by the trail. 
 
 Whilst we were examining the pugs, in order to 
 note which direction he had taken, my attention 
 was attracted by a low whimper, followed by a 
 yawn, which appeared to proceed from the bed of 
 the watercourse, and after some little trouble we 
 forced our way through the thick underwood to the 
 bank, from whence we saw a tigress coolly picking 
 her way among the stones, in the bed of the " nul-
 
 OF TIIR OLD WORLD. 301 
 
 lab," (watercourse.) We put up our rifles and both 
 fired at tlie same moment ; uttering a deep angry- 
 growl, she fell forward, evidently hard hit, although 
 the distance was nearly two hundred yards, and the 
 light none of the best. When she rose, I thought 
 her foreleg seemed to dangle from the shoulder as 
 if broken, but she still went on, notwithstanding we 
 let fly again and evidently hit her, for she gave a 
 terrific roar and turned short round as if to charge, 
 but her heart seemed to fail, and she slunk into 
 some cover close at hand in the centre of the nullah. 
 
 " The light is not good enough for accurate shoot- 
 ing at this range, Hal," said B , as we were re- 
 
 loadinjr our rifles, " but I do not think she can 
 travel far, I am sure she carries lead in her." 
 
 " Of that there can be no doubt," I replied, " as I 
 heard the soft ' thud' of the bullet distinctly; how- 
 ever, we will follow her up, for I saw her enter that 
 isolated patch of bush in the nullah, from which it 
 would be an easy matter to drive her out with a 
 few rockets. I was only considering whether we 
 had not better wait until daylight, when we could 
 almost make sure of her, for the moon will only 
 favour us a short time longer, as the gorge will be 
 in darkness as soon as she sinks below yon wall of 
 rock." 
 
 "No time like the present, Hal," cried B , 
 
 climbing down the steep bank into the bed of the 
 nullah ; " so send Naga to the hut for rockets and 
 some of the people, whilst you, I, and Googooloo
 
 302 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 watch the cover in case she may attempt to steal 
 away." 
 
 Knowing from experience the difficulty of making 
 accurate shooting by the light of the moon, which 
 is very deceitful, it was with some reluctance that I 
 ordered Chineah to take a rifle and go with Naga 
 to the hut for the rest of the gang, and I regretted 
 it almost as soon as I had done so, for I felt a 
 strange presentiment of some accident occurring, 
 being aware of the extreme danger of beating out 
 a wounded tiger from thick cover in such an un- 
 certain light ; however, I determined to take every 
 precaution, and clambering down into the nullah, 
 followed by Googooloo, we watched each side of the 
 cover in which the tigress had been seen to enter, 
 imtil Chineah and the rest of the gang, accompanied 
 by our coolies, joined us. We then formed up in 
 
 line, B taking the right and I the left flank, with 
 
 Chineah well provided with rockets in the centre, 
 and all the rest armed with the short spears they 
 generally carried when beating the jungle. 
 
 Having distinctly warned them not on any ac- 
 count to straggle or separate, and seen that our 
 spare guns were at hand, we moved into the cover, 
 which, although not more than fifty yards long by 
 twenty broad, was very dense, being covered with 
 low tangled bushes and coarse grass about four feet 
 high. We could easily have driven the tigress out 
 by firing the grass, but I did not do so as the blaze 
 would have scared all the game away from the sur-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. fS03 
 
 rounding jungles. We had beaten our way steadily 
 through almost half the patch, when we heard a low 
 grumbling, which appeared to proceed from a large 
 bush much overgrown with creepers and high spear- 
 grass. 
 
 " Dekho ! sahib, dekho ! " (look, sir, look !) cried 
 Chineah, throwing a couple of lighted rockets into 
 the retreat, which evidently annoyed her, although 
 they had not the effect of causing her to break — for 
 she set up a low angry growl which lasted some 
 time. Two or three times I thought I saw the 
 bush shake as if she was about to spring, and once 
 I caught a hurried glimpse of her outline, and 
 threw up my rifle, but I put it down again as I did 
 not like to fire a chance shot with uncertain aim. 
 
 Again Chineah's rockets flew hissing about her, 
 
 and one of them caused her to move, for B 
 
 caught sight of her, and let drive right and left 
 when out she sprang with an appalling roar, and 
 struck down poor Ali, who, notwithstanding my 
 orders, had separated himself from the rest in order 
 to pick up a stone to throw into the bush. His 
 piercing death-shriek rang through the night air, 
 striking terror on every heart ; and, although I felt 
 that I was too late to save him, I determined he 
 should be amply revenged, and dashed forward to- 
 wards the spot where the infuriated tigress was 
 savagely growling, as she still shook the senseless 
 but quivering body of her victim. No sooner did I 
 get a glimpse of her than I knew that I was per-
 
 304! THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 ceived, for with a short angry roar she left the 
 corpse and crouched low to the ground, with her 
 head down, her back arched, and her tail lashing 
 her heaving flanks. At this moment, before she 
 could make a spring that might have proved fatal, 
 carefully aiming between her eyes, which glared 
 upon me like balls of fire, I let drive — she reared 
 up full length on her hind-legs, pawed the air, and 
 fell back dead. 
 
 Vengeance satiated, I went up to poor All, whom 
 I found shockingly mutilated ; his death must have 
 been Instantaneous, as the tigress, with the first blow 
 of her paw, had crushed in the skull (for the brains 
 lay scattered about the place) and then made her 
 teeth meet in his throat and shoulder, breaking the 
 arm in two places, and lacerating the fleshy part of 
 the thigh. 
 
 B and the gang came up shortly afterwards, 
 
 and long and loud were their lamentations, for Ali 
 was much liked by them all, and a great favourite 
 with his master, to whom he had ever proved a will- 
 ing and devoted follower. 
 
 We bound up his head, covered his face with a 
 cloth, and by the aid of our axes constructed a litter 
 of bamboos, on which we carried him towards the 
 hut, where Yacoob Khan, Hassan, and Cassim, 
 B 's " kidmudjar," (butler,) who were also Mus- 
 sulmans, performed the last rites of " the Faithful ;" 
 and we buried him in a deep grave, under an over- 
 hanging rock near the lake, in which the nose, whis-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 305 
 
 kers, and claws of the tigress bad been previously 
 thrown. 
 
 To show our respect to the memory of the she- 
 karry who had come to such an unfortunate end, 
 we all attended, and, at the request of the gang, 
 three volleys were fired over his grave. Strange to 
 say, that hardly had the echoes of the last report 
 died away, rumbling amongst the hills, than the 
 roaring of another tiger was distinctly heard several 
 times. 
 
 Whilst the grave was being filled in, many of the 
 gang were much affected, but not a word was uttered 
 by any except Chineah, who, with his eyes still 
 streaming with tears for the loss of his companion, 
 pronounced the following oration : — " Bold utcha 
 Sheka7'ry tha, lakin murgia, kya kurna ? Nusseeh 
 hy." (He was a very good Shekarry, but he is dead 
 — what can we do? It is his fate.) Then each 
 man fetching a large stone, placed it reverentially 
 over the grave, so as to form a kind of cairn, and 
 making salaam to both of U3, returned to the hut, 
 we following with heavy hearts. As it still wanted 
 some hours to dawn, we turned into bed ; but that 
 fearful death-shriek still rang in my ears, and, al- 
 though tired and weary, I could not sleep.
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 THE GKEAT ANNAMULLAY FOEEST — continued. 
 BISON-HUNTING. 
 
 Our hut. — A gigantic carp. — Fish-shooting. — His dimensions. — 
 Discovery of a cave; an exploring party. — The tiger's spoils. 
 
 — His dimensions. — "Away with melancholy." — Chineah's 
 reconnaissance and bag. — Our open council. — Jungle harmony. 
 — Our proceedings and plan for the morrow. — The turn-out. 
 
 — The start. — A hard fag. — A fresh trail of bison struck. — 
 Googooloo has the ear of a hare.— Two buck-elk and a hind 
 bite the dust. — We follow up the bison's trail. — Heavy work. 
 — Land-leeches. — The find. — A heavy bag and a good day's 
 work. — The gigantic dimensions of the patriarch of the herd. 
 — The game bushed. — Again en route. — A teak forest. — The 
 head of the fall. — Magnificent views. — Our bivouac. 
 
 Being fatigued with our night adventure and the 
 previous day's fag, it was late in the afternoon be- 
 fore either B or myself made our appearance 
 
 outside the tent, which, notwithstanding the intense 
 heat of the weather, was comparatively cool and 
 comfortable, being completely shaded from the 
 scorching rays of the sun by the overhanging rocks 
 above. 
 
 Chineah, Googooloo, and a couple of Mulchers 
 had gone into the forest to reconnoitre and look
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 307 
 
 out for trails, aud the Gooroo and the rest of the 
 gang were busily engaged in denuding the dead 
 tigers of their spoils. 
 
 After breakfast we strolled towards the lake, 
 where we found Hassan, who attracted our atten- 
 tion to an enormous fish which lay basking as if 
 asleep on the surface of the water, whilst several 
 others of the same species, but smaller, kept rising 
 from time to time in different parts of the pool. He 
 informed us that he had been trying for several 
 hours to catch one of these monsters with a rod, 
 but that they were too cunning to take any bait. 
 Knowing from experience that Hassan was a first- 
 rate fisherman, I felt sure that I (who at the best 
 of times am but a bungler with the rod) should 
 have a poor chance of succeeding if he could not, 
 
 so I left B to amuse himself with bait and fly, 
 
 whilst I returned to the hut to make preparations 
 more in my line. 
 
 I took a common musket which Chineah used for 
 wild-fowl shooting, and to the centre of the iron 
 ramrod I firmly attached a piece of double wire, 
 about two yards in length, to the end of wliich I 
 fastened a strong log-line. This done, I loaded the 
 piece with powder and a thick felt-wadding, and 
 then inserted the ramrod, with the flat head down- 
 wards, keeping it in its place in the centre of the 
 bore with a second wad which fitted tightly in the 
 muzzle. 
 
 My preparations completed, I returned to the
 
 308 TEE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 pool, and creeping up as cautiously as possible, I 
 got to within twenty paces of the huge fellow who 
 was so coolly enjoying his " siesta," took steady aim 
 and fired. The ramrod flew like an arrow true to 
 the mark, passing through the fish and dragging the 
 wire and part of the line with it. Immediately the 
 creatm'e found itself wounded it sprang high out of 
 the water, and then dived, pulling so hard that our 
 hands were badly cut with the cord running so fast 
 through them as we gave him play. 
 
 Eor some time it raced round and round the pool, 
 but at length seemed to grow exhausted, and allowed 
 us to pull it to the surface of the water, when, as if 
 endued with fresh vigour, it gave another great spurt, 
 and again spun round and round, until at times I 
 felt afraid that the cord would break. After a good 
 hour's play it turned on its belly and gave in, and 
 w^e managed to land it with some trouble, on account 
 of the great weight. 
 
 It was evidently of the carp species, having large 
 round scales, one dorsal fin, forked tail with rounded 
 lobes, and yellow olive sides, deepening to black on 
 the back. Not having any scales at hand, we could 
 not determine its weight exactly, but I constructed 
 a rude pair with some ropes and a bamboo accu- 
 rately suspended in the centre, and by that we made 
 out the weight to be about sixty-three pouTids, as it 
 weighed down two bags and a quarter of shot, which 
 were supposed to hold twenty-eight pounds when 
 full The flesh proved to be coarse, rank, and tough.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 309 
 
 but some of the gang, who made part of it into a 
 curry, said it was not bad eating. 
 
 As we were strolling about the ravine with our 
 rifles whilst the gang were engaged in skinning the 
 
 dead tigress, B discovered the entrance of a 
 
 cave in the scarped overhanging cliff near our hut, 
 and having nothing better to do we determined to 
 explore it, Naga and Ramasawmy were accordingly 
 despatched for torches, blue-lights, matches, &c., 
 and after carefully examining our rifles so as to be 
 ready in case we found it tenanted by bears or 
 hyenas, (not an unlikely occurrence,) we crept in, 
 
 Naga leading with a torch, I following with B , 
 
 and Eamasawmy with another torch bringing up 
 the rear. 
 
 The entrance was about four feet high and three 
 broad, but it shortly became much more lofty, and 
 from the light of our torches we saw numbers of 
 pointed stalactites hanging from the roof in every 
 direction, which threw perplexing shadows as we 
 advanced, and every now and then made us think 
 that some animal was moving towards us. 
 
 After proceeding for about forty yards, we came 
 to avast chamber, where we were very much annoyed 
 by myriads of small bats that, alarmed at our intru- 
 sion, came dashing up against our faces, and almost 
 put out the torches. 
 
 Having peered about carefully to make sure there 
 were no beasts of any kind likely to molest us, I 
 lio-hted a couple of blue-lights, which enabled us to
 
 SIO THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 see every part of the grotto distinctly. The cavern 
 appeared to be about seventy yards long by forty 
 wide, and varying from ten to sixty feet in height ; 
 it was vaulted with live rock covered all over with 
 elegantly-formed stalactites which glittered like bril- 
 liants from the reflection of the blue-lights. The 
 ground was very uneven, and covered with fine 
 sand, except on one side, where there were enormous 
 boulders of black granite. We saw several fissures 
 and crevices, which appeared to be passages stretch- 
 ing out further in difierent directions into the bowels 
 of the earth, but did not care to explore them on 
 account of the close heat and insupportable stench, as 
 well as for fear of snakes and scorpions, several of 
 which reptiles we discerned moving about the place. 
 
 We therefore wrote our names and the date on a 
 huge slab of smooth rock with charcoal, for the 
 benefit of any one who might come after us, and 
 retraced our steps into daylight, glad to breathe the 
 fresh air once more. 
 
 We found that the Gooroo and Veerapah had 
 finished skinning the tigress, and were busily en- 
 gaged in searching for our bullets ; she had received 
 five wounds, besides the last, which entered between 
 the eyes and penetrated the brain, causing instan- 
 taneous death. The tiger had been skinned in the 
 morning, having been previously carried some dis- 
 tance away from the lake for fear the scent of blood 
 might taint the air, and prevent other animals from 
 approaching the spot to drink. He proved to be a
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 311 
 
 fine specimen, his dimensions being as follows : — 
 Length from tip of nose to point of tail, 10 feet 2 
 inches; length of tail, 3 feet 1 inch ; girth of body, 
 6 feet 1 inch; girth round fore-arm, 2 feet 10 
 inches; height at shoulder, 3 feet 9 inches; circum- 
 ference of head, 3 feet 5 inches. The tigress was 
 much less, not measuring more than 9 feet 5 inches 
 from the tip of the nose to the point of the tail, and 
 her limbs smaller in proportion. 
 
 The melancholy fate of poor Ali had spread a 
 gloom upon us all, and the eamp, which usually 
 resounded with mirth, seemed strangely still and 
 silent ; so, to give the people something else to think 
 about, I ordered a couple of sheep to be killed and 
 distributed with an extra allowance of tobacco, which 
 had the desired effect, for in the course of a short 
 time cooking-pots and brass curry-dishes were boil- 
 ing and bubbling on every side, and the busy hum 
 of voices was heard throughout the bivouac as usual. 
 
 Towards evening, Chineah and his party returned 
 from their reconnaisance with three young " squeak- 
 ers," (hog,) which the dogs had captured alive, and 
 they reported that they had come across a large 
 herd of bison, browsing in some bamboo-jungle half- 
 way up the hill, and had left them undisturbed, so 
 that we should most likely find them near the place 
 on the morrow. 
 
 After having dined substantially upon a prime 
 haunch of roast venison, and grilled sucking-pig, we 
 adjourned to our camp-fire, which was lighted in a
 
 312 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 deep cleft of the rock, where it could not be well 
 seen at any distance from the surrounding jungle ; 
 and here we found the gang and all our people as- 
 sembled, according to their usual custom when out 
 in the jungle on a "Shekar" expedition. The 
 Gooroo and Veerapah were enlivening the party 
 with some extemporary chanting, and at the same 
 time accompanying themselves on the " sitarr" and 
 " sarinda, "* whilst Chineah and the coolies per- 
 formed on tomtoms, and Eamasawmy gave occa- 
 sional discordant flourishes on the cholera horn, 
 
 which we were obliged to decline, as B declared 
 
 it would make his dinner disagree with him. 
 
 As we took our seats on a carpet spread over a 
 heap of dry leaves which had been prepared for us, 
 the concert ceased, and each man produced his pan- 
 nikin or cocoa-nut shell, for it was my custom to give 
 every one in camp a glass of rakee, and tobacco or 
 cheroot, when we assembled in council round the 
 camp-fire in the evening to consult as to the mor- 
 row's proceedings. As soon as the grog had been 
 served out, and all were enjoying the fragrant weed, 
 I opened the proceedings by expressing my regret 
 that such an imtoward event should have befallen 
 the cano; as to lose one of their number ; but I ex- 
 plained to them that poor All had lost his life by 
 disobeying my positive orders in foolishly straggling 
 from the rest, and I hoped his sad fate would be a 
 warning to the gang to be more careful in future. 
 
 * Rude iuotruments somewhat resembling the violin and guitar.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 31 3 
 
 I also suggested that the gang should each subscribe 
 some small sum towards making up a purse for his 
 
 father, (an old pensioned KaviLlar,) to which B 
 
 and I would contribute a hundred rupees ; and I 
 was glad to see that when Chineah went round with 
 his cocoa-nut shell, every one present, even to the 
 coolies, put in his rupee or whatever he could afford. 
 
 We then proceeded to deliberate on the plan for 
 the morrow, and to detail each man his duty. Vee- 
 rapah and Naga, with two Mulchers, were to ascend 
 the Ghaut on the left, to find out if the Carders (a 
 jungle tribe who inhabited that side of the moun- 
 tain) had seen any elephants lately, and afterwards 
 to join us at the head of the fall. Hassan was to go 
 
 into Coimbatore with notes from B to K 
 
 and C , informing them of our whereabouts, in 
 
 case they could manage to join our party. Eama- 
 sawmy was to continue the preparation of the skins, 
 and Chineah, Googooloo, and two IMulclicrs were to 
 accompany us in a trip up the side of the ravine, 
 where the herd of bison had been seen. These 
 matters being settled, we sat smoking and chatting 
 for a couple of hours, and then turned in. 
 
 Next morning the moon had only just set, and 
 there was but a slight tinge of gray in the eastern 
 sky, when my factotum " Five j\Iinutes" entered the 
 hut with hot coflfee flavoured with eau-de-vie, which 
 is the best morning-cup for a sportsman when in the 
 jungle, as it prevents any ill eflfects arising from in- 
 haling the vapour which still hangs upon the ground
 
 314 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 at that early hour. Our toilet was soon completed, 
 and on stepping outside the hut we found the gang 
 all wrapped up in their combleys and couched over 
 a wood-fire, for the early morning was damp and 
 chilly ; so I ordered a glass of grog to be served out, 
 and Chineah distributed the spare guns, blankets, 
 stores, &c., that each had to carry in case of our 
 being benighted in the jungle, which was a common 
 occurrence. 
 
 In tropical climates the interval between the first 
 faint glimmering of dawn and daylight is very short, 
 and as soon as we could distinguish objects pretty 
 clearly we entered the forest, where we heard jungle- 
 cocks already crowing merrily. 
 
 The first living creatures we encountered were 
 two great hooded-owls, who, like drowsy revellers 
 after their nightly carouse, sailed hooting past, lei- 
 surely flapping their wings as they returned to their 
 haunts in some hollow tree. Shortly afterwards we 
 surprised a troop of monkeys who were evidently 
 making their way towards the pool for a morning 
 draught, but who fled, skipping from branch to 
 branch, chattering and showing their teeth as soon 
 as they detected our presence. Every now and again 
 the dun sides of deer flashed for an instant before 
 us, as they bounded across the open vistas of the 
 forest and disappeared in the dense cover. The 
 fresh morning air was loaded with the perfume of 
 different flowering jungle-plants, and the forest re- 
 sounded with the melody of feathered songsters.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 515 
 
 "We followed the trail that Chineah's party had 
 made in their reconnaisance the day before, and 
 after an hour's painful climbing up the dry bed of 
 a mountain-torrent, filled with loose round stones 
 which rolled from under the feet at every step, and 
 somewhat tried our powers as mountaineers, we 
 arrived at a natural clearing in the midst of the 
 dense forest, where the gang had seen the bison 
 browsing the day before. We examined the ground 
 carefully, and found numbers of old marks, but no 
 fresh ones, so we continued our route up the side 
 of the mountain, and after a couple of hours' severe 
 toil found ourselves in a patch of bamboo-jungle, 
 where Chineah detected the fresh trail of a herd of 
 bison. 
 
 Being thoroughly exhausted and done up with 
 our exertions, we sat down upon a ledge of rock to 
 regain our breath and rest ourselves before follow- 
 ing up the trail, and were indulging in the inde- 
 scribable luxury of weak brandy-panee and cheroots, 
 never more enjoyed than in the jungle, when an ex- 
 clamation from Googooloo caused us both to jump 
 on our feet and seize our rifles that were leaning at 
 our heads against a tree. I made a motion to our 
 people to lie flat on the ground, and listened for a 
 couple of minutes without hearing anything ; but a 
 glance at Googooloo's speaking features told me that 
 he had caught sound of something, and I remained 
 on the alert. 
 
 Just at that moment we heard a sharp bark,
 
 316 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 whicli I knew came from an elk, and, stealing as 
 gently as possible to a ledge of rock which com- 
 manded a view of the slope, I had the satisfaction 
 of beholding a herd of sambur feeding in a glade 
 about eighty yards below us. A fine stag with 
 sweeping antlers was grazing, unconscious of dan- 
 ger, witliln easy range, and a second was lying down 
 in the shade chewing the cud, surrounded by hinds. 
 
 " Now, Ned," whispered I to B , who had 
 
 johied me, "take that fellow well behind the 
 shoulder, and he 's your own/' 
 
 He raised his rifle, took deliberate aim, fired, and 
 the stag, leaping with a convulsive bound high into 
 the air, fell dead. The second hart, startled by the 
 shot, sprang on his feet, and threw up his head with 
 a wild snort, which gave me a fair shot, and I sent 
 a two-ounce ball crashing into his brain, when he 
 tumbled heavily forward in the high grass ; and, 
 without removing the rifle, I brought the sight to 
 bear upon a fat doe, and dropped her with a broken 
 shoulder ; But she immediately regained her feet, 
 and would have given us a long run, or perhaps 
 
 have got off" altogether, if B had not given her 
 
 the contents of his second barrel, which again rolled 
 her over, and, whilst she was struggling, Chineah 
 .sprang forward and buried his long knife in her 
 chest. Her dark, languid eye rolled wildly round 
 for a moment, and distending her wide nostrils, she 
 gasped painfully for breath, heaved a convulsive 
 sigh, stretched out her limbs, and all was still.
 
 OF TUE OLD WORLD, 317 
 
 "We immediately set to work and broke up the 
 deer ; and, after reserving a portiou for present use, 
 sluDg the remainder by creepers to the branch of a 
 tree, tying a red pocket-handkerchief like a streamer 
 to keep off the vultures, who otlierwise would soon 
 have scented it out and left us nothing but the 
 bones. I also despatched one of the Mulchers with 
 the heads to the hut, as the horns were good, giving 
 him orders to collect some of his tribe to carry 
 down the venison, and leave the skins with my 
 servants. 
 
 This little matter arranged, we followed up the 
 spoor of the bison, and in a little time fell in with 
 the trail of ' a large herd, which, from unmistakable 
 siftns, we knew could not be far in advance. 
 
 It was very lucky that we came provided with 
 leech-gaiters, made of very fine long stockings, which 
 we wore over our ordinary hose and breeches, and 
 under the gaiters, as we found the land-leeches 
 swarming in the damp grass and rank vegetation. 
 These pests of the jungle are very insignificant in 
 size, not being above an inch in length, or thicker 
 than a knitting-needle, but when distended with 
 blood they attain double that length, and are about 
 as thick as a good-sized quill. They have the power 
 of planting one extremity on the ground, and poising 
 themselves erect to watch for prey, towards which 
 they advance rapidly by doubling up the body and 
 holding on with their head and tail. They are of a 
 yellowish-brown colo-ir, streaked with black, with
 
 318 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 one greenish line along the whole length of the back, 
 and a yellow one on each side. Their bites scarcely 
 give any pain at the time, the punctures being so 
 small as hardly to be perceptible, but they cause an 
 uncomfortable irritation, and with persons in a bad 
 state of body often occasion nasty ulcers, which are 
 slow to heal. The gang were accustomed to smear 
 their naked legs with some peculiar kind of grease 
 mixed with ashes, the scent of which prevented the 
 leeches from biting, otherwise they would have been 
 seriously inconvenienced by their attacks. 
 
 After following the trail for some miles, Chineah 
 and Googooloo, who were creeping along a ragged 
 hollow, which appeared to have been the pathway of 
 an impetuous torrent, some little distance in front, 
 made a sign to us to keep silent, and shortly after- 
 wards they beckoned us to advance. With great 
 caution we crept noiselessly forward, stopping from 
 time to time to listen, and after crawling on our 
 hands and knees for nearly a hundred yards, we 
 trained the crest of the hill, where we had the 
 satisfaction of seeing a large herd of bison quietly 
 browsing on the green herbage in a patch of open 
 teak-forest. 
 
 Having satisfied myself that we were well to lee- 
 ward, and in no danger of being discovered by their 
 remarkably keen scent, I raised myself cautiously 
 behind the trunk of a tree to reconnoitre ; and after 
 
 pointing out to B a fine bull, who, surrounded 
 
 with cows, was lazily nibbling the young and tender
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 319 
 
 shoots of a clump of bamboos, about a nundred 
 yards distant, I begged him to reserve his fire until 
 he heard my signal, as I intended to try and stalk 
 the patriarch of the herd, a stately fellow with 
 enormous dew-lap and immensely deep shoulders, 
 who was pawing the ground fretfully, and uttering 
 deep cries as if impatient for the herd to retire to 
 the depths of the jungle for shelter from the rays 
 of the sun, which were beginning to feel oppressive. 
 
 I descended a short distance down the side of the 
 hill, and crept along the brow until I got under the 
 cover of a clump of bamboos, whence I again caught 
 sight of him. Here I had nearly been discovered, 
 for two cows and a young calf sprang up close to 
 me, and rushed tail on end towards the rest of the 
 herd, who lifting up their heads seemed to gaze 
 anxiously in my direction. I therefore remained a 
 few moments perfectly quiet, keeping my eye upon 
 the mighty bull who was standing about three hun- 
 dred yards distant ; and when I saw that their alarm 
 had in some degree subsided, I crept gently forward, 
 and, taking advantage of any cover I could find, 
 managed to ensconce myself behind a large rhodo- 
 dendron-bush within a hundred and twenty yards 
 of him. 
 
 I then blew a shrill blast on a silver call I always 
 
 wore round my neck, as a signal to B , and 
 
 shortly afterw^ards heard a double shot, followed by 
 three others. The first report attracted the bull's 
 attention, and he trotted forward a few paces to
 
 320 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 reconnoitre, tearing up the turf with his hoofs, and 
 lashing his tail as if indignant that his sylvan re- 
 treat should be intruded uj^on. Whilst in this 
 position he offered me a fair view of his brawny 
 shoulder, and I planted a heavy cylindro-conical 
 bullet just behind it, which brought him to his 
 knees with a surly roar. Mad with pain he re- 
 gained his feet, and staggered forward on three 
 legs, when I gave him the contents of my second 
 barrel in nearly the same place, which rolled him 
 over. Chineah now handed me my other rifle, and 
 I quitted the cover ; when no sooner did he catch 
 sight of me than again' springing up, with a deep 
 tremulous roar, he charged headlong at me, tail on 
 end, his eyes flashing fire, and mouth covered with 
 blood and foam. I let him come to within six 
 paces of where I was standing, when I stopped his 
 mad career with a ball in the centre of his broad 
 massive forehead, which again made him bite the 
 dust : he gave a desperate plunge forward, and 
 rolled heavily over on his side dead. The others, 
 alarmed, were now tearing frantically over the plain, 
 so I slipped behind the cover of a bush to reload, 
 and again stealing forward, managed to bowl over 
 a cow and wound another badly, before the terrified 
 herd sought safety in flight by rallying in a body 
 and crashing through the dense bamboo-jungle 
 which clothed the side of the hill. After reloading, 
 I despatched the second cow with a bullet behind 
 the horns, as she was lying disabled by my first
 
 OP THE OLD WOELD. 821 
 
 shot, which had passed through the small of her 
 back and paralysed her hind-quarters. 
 
 I now looked out for B and Googooloo, who 
 
 were nowhere to be seen, but a dead cow and a 
 young bull-calf showed that they had not been idle. 
 Whilst I was examining the latter, and cogitating 
 upon veal-cutlets and marrow-bones, I heard two 
 double shots in the cover just below the crest of the 
 hill, which were immediately followed by a loud 
 
 whoop from B ; and on running up I found 
 
 him standing breathless over the carcass of a huge 
 bull, which was evidently just killed. 
 
 " By Jove ! Hal," exclaimed he, as I approached, 
 " I 'm regularly done up ; this brute has led me 
 such a chase. I hit him fairly between the eyes, 
 and doubled him up like a rabbit with buck-shot, 
 for he dropped without a struggle, dead, as I 
 thought, and I paid no more attention to him ; but 
 letting drive at the herd as they bolted away, I 
 killed a cow and a calf and wounded a third, when 
 suddenly my friend picked himself up, shook his 
 head savagely, gave an angry grunt, and charged 
 right at me. Every barrel being discharged, I 
 stepped on one side and got out of his way, when 
 he directed his attention to Googooloo, who dodged 
 him amongst the trees easily enough ; for, half- 
 blinded with blood from his wound, he reeled and 
 tumbled about as if he was groggy, every now and 
 then falling heavily. As soon as I had reloaded I 
 gave chase, but all at once missed him, and it was 
 
 X
 
 322 THE HUl^TING GKOUNDS 
 
 only just now that the Yanadi pointed him out 
 to me in this clump of high grass, where he had 
 cunningly lain down to conceal himself. As I came 
 up he again charged, when, stepping aside, I allowed 
 him to pass, and gave him the contents of both 
 barrels well behind the shoulder, which brought 
 him up, and to make sure of him this time I ad- 
 ministered a couple of pills in the back of the head 
 as lie lay writhing and gasping upon the ground ; 
 and here he is safe enough. But what have you 
 done?" 
 
 " About the same as yourself," I answered ; " I 
 have killed the big bull and a couple of cows, which 
 makes six bison and three elk bagged. Not a bad 
 day's work for two guns." 
 
 " No, indeed," replied B ; '•' would it nou 
 
 make the folks at home stare ? " 
 
 " Mulcher log hoht kush honga, Sahib ! " — " The 
 Mulcher people will be very happy, sir ! " exclaimed 
 Chineah ; " there will be meat in their huts for 
 many days to come, and the gentlemen's great 
 shekar will be spoken of for a long time in far off 
 jungles." 
 
 " Yes, Chineah," I replied ; " I dare say we shall 
 soon have more mouths to fill, but remember you 
 impress upon the minds of the Coorchi moopen* 
 of the Carders, and the head men of the Mulchers, 
 that in return for the game we give them I shall 
 expect to hear of elephants." 
 
 * A high priest, or rather " holy-man" of a tribe.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD, 323 
 
 "Ho ba-shuck, Sahib!" — "Yes, without doubt, 
 sir; the tribes will build 'jopreys' (Imts made of 
 branches) near our camp, and we can send the men 
 into the jungle every day to look out for trails." 
 
 " All right," I replied, " that 's your affair ; in the 
 meantime hand me the tape, and come and help me 
 to measure the other kulgha, (bull-bison,) as I think 
 it is the largest I have ever killed." 
 
 So saying we retraced our steps to the big bull, 
 and, with the aid of a straight bamboo, I took the 
 exact dimensions and entered them in my note-book 
 as follows : — 
 
 " Perpendicular height from the bottom of the 
 hoof to the top of the shoulder, not following the 
 curve of the body, 6 feet 4 inches ; height to the 
 top of hump, 6 feet 9 inches ; length of body from 
 the tip of nose to insertion of tail, 11 feet 4 inches ; 
 length of tail, 3 feet 4 inches ; girth of body, 9 feet 
 3 inches ; girth of fore-arm, 2 feet 10 inches ; girth 
 of neck, 4 feet 10 inches ; breadth of forehead, 2 
 feet o inches ; circumference round base of horns, 1 
 foot 9 inches ; length of horns, 1 foot 4 inches ; 
 colour, black along the back, light dun under the 
 belly and inside the thighs, the legs below the knees 
 and hocks dirty white ; the cows much less in pro- 
 portion, with hardly any hump or dewlap, the head 
 smaller and more graceful." 
 
 " Well, Hal," exclaimed B , as we finished 
 
 measuring the gigantic animal ; " I think there are 
 few finer fellows than this even in the whole Wynaad
 
 324 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 Jungle: he is fiilly two inches higher than any we 
 have hitherto met with, and both you and I have 
 tumbled over a good few in our time too. What a 
 farce to compare the American buffalo with this 
 stately fellow, nineteen hands at the shoulder, and 
 twenty and an inch extreme height. I wonder what 
 the folks at Smithfield would think of him." 
 
 " I wish we had the little stock we have bagged 
 this morning, Ned, in that neighbourhood," I 
 answered; "they would be worth a twelvemonth's 
 pay and allowances to us, and as a contrast we 
 might also exhibit at the same time a ' Yak,' — for 
 the smallest as well as the largest of the genus Bos 
 are to be found in Hindostan, — the bison being 
 over twenty hands and the yak not exceeding nine. 
 But, Ned, we have yet a good trudge before we 
 reach the head of the Fall, and I do not think we shall 
 have more than four or five hours' daylight, so we 
 had better set the people to cut thorns and bamboo- 
 stakes at once to cover the animals, so as to scare 
 away the jackals, and then make the best of our 
 way." 
 
 " All right," replied he ; " we 'U blow a cloud 
 whilst they are at work, for it would be a pity to 
 have the skins spoiled, they would cover us such a 
 famous basket-boat to float down to the coast in, by 
 the Bowani and Cauvery ; " which latter flows into 
 the sea near Tranquebar, passing through the towns 
 of Trichinopoly, Tanjore, and Combaconum en route. 
 
 After having cut out the tongues, which we gener-
 
 OF THE OLD WOULD. i52o 
 
 ally salted, and packed up a few marrow-bones, we 
 superintended the "bushing" of the game, and 
 shouldering our rifles again made a start, AVe 
 followed a course parallel to the crest of the ravine, 
 taking care not to go too close to the edge, as the 
 turf was smooth and slippery, and in some places 
 we might have fallen several thousand feet before 
 reaching the ground. 
 
 We now entered a forest of gigantic teak-trees, 
 so dense that the rays of the sun never penetrated, 
 and the light resembled faint and dubious twilight. 
 None but those who have explored an Indian forest 
 could have any conception of the depth of gloom 
 and strange silence that pervades these solitudes. 
 Emerging from the dense forest-jungle that covered 
 the high ridge along which our course had hitherto 
 lain, we descended through a rocky gorge into a 
 beautiful valley clothed with short luxuriant emer- 
 ald-green grass, through which a softly-murmur- 
 ing stream of clear pellucid water glided smoothly 
 along until it plunged over a jutting cliff, when, 
 bounding from ledge to ledge, it formed a succes- 
 sion of foaming cataracts, and at last, rushing in its 
 headlong course down the almost perpendicular 
 slope of the mountain, swept over the scarped pre- 
 cipice at the end of the ravine in which we had 
 built our hut. 
 
 We made our way to the first fall, and lying flat 
 upon the ground, crawled to the edge of the preci- 
 pice, and peeping cautiously over, we beheld a scene
 
 326 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 which amply repaid all our toil. The glowing plain 
 of the low country lay stretched like a map before 
 us some thousands of feet below, and we could 
 trace the winding course of the Bowani river for 
 some scores of miles as it gleamed in the rays of 
 the sun like a silver thread. To our right, rose a 
 grand amphitheatre of frowning heights, every por- 
 tion of which, save only the scarped face of some 
 perpendicular cliff, was covered with primeval forest, 
 and far off could be discerned the fringed outline 
 of more distant ranges, blue and indistinct in the 
 fading light of departing day. It was a landscape 
 of transcendent beauty, which has left a vivid im- 
 pression on my mind, for perhaps the gorgeous sun- 
 set, which gilds all eastern scenery with a beauty 
 peculiarly its own, may have rendered this more 
 charming, by casting those rich golden tints upon 
 the lofty peaks and rugged cliffs whicn the painter 
 loves to throw over his picture. 
 
 The day was fast drawing to a close, and it was 
 time to think of preparing our bivouac for the 
 night, so we selected a rising ground for our en- 
 campment, under the lee of a huge boulder of moss- 
 covered rock, flanked by two strange-looking trees, 
 whose dark dense foliage, gnarled branches, and 
 tortuous roots, reminded us much of those ancient 
 yews that are so often met with in the country 
 churchyards of old England. This arcadian nook 
 was embellished by natural parterres of orchideous 
 plants, wild camellias, rhododendrons, and other
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 327 
 
 flowering shrubs, whilst here and there were 
 scattered chimps of stately forest-trees, from which 
 hung festoons of the pusivel creeper {Entada j)ur- 
 swtha) with its gigantic pods nearly six feet in 
 length, and other blooming parasites. 
 
 Chineah and the people were not long in con- 
 structing two huts (one for us and the other for 
 themselves) by sticking bamboos into the ground, 
 bending their tops together, which they fastened 
 ■with creepers so as to form an arch, and wattling 
 the sides with twigs. A trench Avas then dug, the 
 earth heaped up all round, and the whole covered 
 with a combley which was well pegged down, 
 making an impervious shelter. In our tent a 
 carpet w^as spread over a bed of dry leaves, a rest 
 for our rifles constructed, and a bull's-eye lanthorn 
 hung up ready for lighting. 
 
 I was accustomed to make myself at home and 
 comfortable when in the jungle, being always very 
 careful in the selection of my sleeping-place, for 
 although, after many long years' campaigning, my 
 constitution has become more hardy and less suscep- 
 tible of injury from cold and damp, still I have seen 
 so many fine fellows succumb to dysentery and 
 fever, the seeds of which diseases were laid by care- 
 less exposure to the night air, after extreme heat 
 and exhaustion, that I always take care of myself ; 
 besides which it is wretched beyond description to 
 be shivering beneath a scanty covering, and feel the 
 niffht air cut throuirh one until the life-blood is
 
 328 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 
 
 almost frozen, wlien a little care and forethought 
 would have prevented it. 
 
 The sun had now gone down, and the fast expiring 
 twilight was deepening into night, and barely sufficed 
 to disclose the beauties of the surrounding scenery, 
 so we adjourned to the camp-fire, where all were 
 busily engaged in preparing the evening meal ; and 
 the consequent bustle which ensued presented a 
 strange contrast to the dreamy stillness that a few 
 minutes before pervaded this romantic sylvan dell. 
 After a smoke and a chat round the fire, we set the 
 watch and turned in, well satisfied with our day's 
 sport.
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 THE GREAT ANNAMULLAY FOREST — continued. 
 A ROGUE ELEPHANT, 
 
 Naga's party join us. — News of a rogue elephant. — Chineah 
 
 despatched for the bison's spoils. — B 's luck. — The start. 
 
 — We strike a fresh trail. — Fall in with the tusker. — Our pro- 
 ceedings. — B 'a excellent shot. — The ivories. — A discus- 
 sion on " rogues." — The cutting-out of the tusks. — Return to 
 
 the low country. — Arrival of our guests. — Dinner. — B 's 
 
 adventure of a " griffin." — The lion and tiger compared. — My 
 first lion. — We again ascend the Ghaut. — Good cheer. — Con- 
 sultation. — Elephant-spoors. — The trail followed up. — K 's 
 
 rashness. — An escape. — A small tusker falls. — Return to the 
 hut. — B 's bag. — A storm. — Return to cantonment. 
 
 Shortly after we had retired to rest, I was 
 awakened by an extraordinary noise and bustle 
 outside our hut ; and, on caUing for Cliineah, found 
 that Naga and Veerapah, with a party of Carders, 
 had come in, having missed their way until attracted 
 by our fire. Naga reported that the Carders had 
 told him of a bull-elephant, with large tusks, that 
 had been seen several times lately in a wooded 
 ravine about two coss (four miles) distant ; and that
 
 330 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 he and Veerapah, under the guidance of the party- 
 then in camp, had been to look for him, and whilst 
 they were following up his trail, and talking as they 
 went along, he made his appearance and charged 
 right at them, but that they had made their escape 
 by climbing into trees, where they remained until 
 he moved away. The Carders also knew of the 
 whereabouts of a herd at no very great distance 
 among the hills ; and they reported that bison were 
 to be found at any time in the teak-forests. Having 
 made up my mind to go after the solitary tusker, 
 whom I suspected to be a " rogue " that had been 
 driven out of a herd by his companions, from his 
 vicious attack on the people, I turned over and slept 
 until called by Chineah in the morning. 
 
 A venison-steak broiled on the embers of our fire, 
 a cup of cofifee, and a couple of chapaties (girdle- 
 cakes made of rice-flour) formed our breakfast ; 
 
 during which meal I informed B of Naga's 
 
 news, as he had not heard it, being asleep at the 
 time. I then despatched Chineah, Veerapah, and a 
 party of Carders and Mulchers, for the bisons' skins 
 and horns, which they were to take down to our hut 
 in the low country, and there remain until our re- 
 turn. As there was only one elephant, according 
 to our usual custom in such cases, we tossed up for 
 
 the " shot," and B won, as he generally managed 
 
 to do ; after which we set out and followed the 
 course of the valley for about a mile, when we 
 entered a beautiful open forest of magnificent teak-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 331 
 
 trees, where we soon came upon tlie old spoor of an 
 elephant, which we followed into a patch of higli 
 waving bamboo-jungle, that had evidently been his 
 place of abode for several days, as we could tell by 
 the number of trails we met with on every side, all 
 of which appeared of the same size, and varying 
 from one to ten days old. 
 
 Finding, from the freshness of the spoor, that he 
 could not be very far off, I ordered all the party, 
 except Googooloo and Naga, who carried our spare 
 guns, to mount into trees, so as to be out of the way 
 in case we met with him ; and shortly afterwards 
 we came to a sandy watercourse, which he had 
 evidently only just crossed, as the water was still 
 flowing into the imprints of his mighty feet. Whilst 
 examining these marks, Googooloo, whose every 
 muscle quivered with excitement, whilst his ex- 
 pressive countenance was lighted up with intense 
 animation, made a sign for us to listen ; and above 
 that strange, indescribable, low buzzing hum caused 
 by the insect-world, from the depths of the forest 
 on every side, I plainly heard a low "urmph," 
 " urmph," which noise I knew was caused by the 
 elephant blowing through his trunk. "We now took 
 the spare guns from Naga and Googooloo, which we 
 flung over our shoulders, first taking the precaution 
 of putting on fresh caps, so as to ensure against 
 miss-fires. 
 
 Having made signs to our attendants to mount 
 into trees, which was much against their inclina-
 
 832 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 tions, as they wanted to see the fun, we crept as 
 noiselessly as possible towards the spot from whence 
 the sound proceeded, and in a little while had the 
 gratification of seeing a very fair-sized tusker rub- 
 bing himself most energetically against the trunk 
 of a large teak-tree. We made a circuit through 
 the wood in order to get well to leeward of him, and 
 then, cocking our rifles, cautiously approached, taking 
 advantage of whatever cover we could find from 
 clumps of bamboo and natural undulations of the 
 ground, he seeming so much engrossed in his occu- 
 pation (that of scratching himself) that he did not 
 perceive our approach, and allowed us to get close 
 behind him, where we stood watching his move- 
 ments for a few moments. Seeing that B wa3 
 
 perfectly ready, I gave a shrill whistle, which imme- 
 diately attracted his attention, for his ears distended, 
 and he swang heavily round, with a hoarse grunt, 
 fully exposing his broad forehead to our view. Quick 
 
 as thought, B threw up his rifle, and fired a 
 
 double shot. A heavy fall, a subdued sigh, fol- 
 lowed the report, and when the smoke cleared away 
 I saw he had pitched heavily forward, and buried 
 his tusks nearly a foot deep into the ground. I 
 stepped up to give him a " coup de grace" but it 
 was not required, both bullets had struck the vul- 
 nerable place immediately above the trunk, within 
 an inch of each other, and, penetrating the brain, 
 death was instantaneous. 
 
 " Hurrah \" cried B , as he threw up his cap,
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 333 
 
 "those 'ivories' must weigh heavily, ami will help 
 to replenish the shot in my locker, for old Franijee 
 will give mc a pagoda * a pound for them. Was it 
 not neatly done?" 
 
 " Yes," I replied, " most scientifically, for he 
 dropped to your shot like a stone ; however, you had 
 better superintend the cutting-out of the tusks your- 
 self, as he has fallen in an awkward position to get 
 at ; and, if you do not take care, the fellows will 
 chip the ivory with their axes, which will spoil the 
 appearance of the tusks." 
 
 " All right, Hal, I '11 see to it ; but do you think 
 this fellow was really a rogue, for he does not look 
 as if he was particularly vicious, judging from the 
 cut of his 'physog,' although he has several old 
 scars, barely healed, over his hind-quarters?" 
 
 " I do, for several reasons," I replied. " First 
 because the Carders, who are generally tolerably 
 truthful, say so; secondly, because of his solitary 
 habits ; and thirdly, because I fancy these scars are 
 the results of encounters with others of his species, 
 who will not allow him to associate with them. An 
 elephant who has once lost his herd or family is an 
 outcast from the rest of the race, for he is not per- 
 mitted to join any other troop, although he may fre- 
 quent the same feeding-places. I fancy that their soli- 
 tary life causes them to become morose and vicious ; 
 for rogues, whether male or female, are always 
 found alone. I think I told you that the old rogue 
 
 * A pagoda, three rupees and a half — about seven shillings.
 
 ooi THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 with a broken tusk, that I killed in the Ballyrim- 
 <:;um Hills a short time ago, used to attack every 
 animal he came near, and did not fear man in the 
 least, for, whenever he heard the sounds of an axe 
 in the part of the jungle he inhabited, he would rush 
 shrieking, and chase the woodcutters ; who went 
 about their work in fear and trembling until I rolled 
 him over with a single ball as he charged me, when 
 I caught him bathing in a small pool of water." 
 
 " I remember it well," answered B ; " but 
 
 here come the men with the axes, so bear a hand, 
 and we will show them how to begin ourselves." 
 
 When the people came up, we set to work cutting 
 out the tusks ; which task, even with the aid of 
 heavy axes, a saw, and fresh relays of operators, took 
 us nearly three hours before it was accomplished, 
 when, cutting off the end of the tail and the tips of 
 the ears and trunk to send to the " Cutchery"* for 
 the Government reward, we slung the ivory on bam- 
 boos, and the Mulchers carried it on their shoulders. 
 
 We descended the Ghaut by a shorter route than 
 the one we came by, and arrived at our hut by sun- 
 set, where we had the gratification of finding K 
 
 and C enjoying a bath in the lake. We joined 
 
 them, and, after a most refreshing dip, sat down to 
 a famous dinner, in which my chef de cuisine, " Five 
 Minutes," outvied all his previous performances by 
 indulging us in a most delicious pie made of the 
 bison's marrow. After due justice had been done to 
 
 * Cutchery — the collector's office.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 335 
 
 the good clieer, and we had received tlie hearty con- 
 gratulations of our guests on our shooting achieve- 
 ments, we adjourned outside the liut, to indulge in 
 the "fragrant weed" and the cup that cheers but 
 
 does not inebriate, and B much amused us by 
 
 relating an account of Paddy Lynch's first rencontre 
 with " wild bastes." Paddy landed as a cadet at 
 Madras, and was very shortly afterwards despatched 
 to join a party of " griffins" * at Poonamallee, who 
 were going up-country to join their respective regi- 
 ments. Pat sent on his traps the day before, and 
 early the next morning commenced his march, ac- 
 companied by his horsekeeper, who had a smattering 
 of English. He had heard of bears and tigers up- 
 country, so he went fully armed and equipped. 
 After he had got a few miles from Madras, he came 
 to a tank, in which he saw two strange black-look- 
 ing creatures swimming about, that he took to be 
 alligators or hippopotami, (he was not sure which.) 
 He immediately dismounted, drew his shot, and, 
 loading with ball, stole as gingerly as he could to- 
 wards his game, which, to his surprise, allowed him 
 to approach tolerably near, when they snorted in his 
 face. Pat, taking a fair aim at the head of the first, 
 let drive, and immediately the animal sank ; he then 
 blazed away at the other, and wounded it so severely 
 that it began spinning round in the water. He 
 loaded again, and after some more discharges, he 
 
 * GrifiBns — officers wlio have not completed their first year's 
 service.
 
 336 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 " cooked its goose," and was in great glee at having 
 killed his first " large game!' He, however, forbore 
 going into the tank to fetch them out, as he said 
 " he felt a bit scared-like for fear there might be 
 any more o' the craturs at the bottom of the wather," 
 so he called upon some villagers to help him. "When 
 he had pointed out his game, to his great surprise 
 they began a series of vociferations and lamentations, 
 beating their breasts, and howling in a most frantic 
 manner. " By the Powers ! " says Pat, " sure it 's 
 one of their sacred alligators I 've been shooting V 
 So, mounting his horse, he set off at full speed to 
 Poonamallee, where he arrived just as they were 
 sitting down to breakfast. He immediately told his 
 adventure. The grififins listened with wonder, but 
 a cloud passed over the face of the officer in charge, 
 who, turning round in a very grave manner to Pat, 
 said, " Mr Lynch, I am afraid you have killed a brace 
 of niggers, and got yourself into a mess." Pat de- 
 clared he had not, but remained very glum all the 
 rest of the time at breakfast, when suddenly a row 
 was heard outside. Pat recognised his horsekeeper's 
 voice, flew out of the door, and in a moment re- 
 turned shouting, " Sure, Captain, they am't niggers 
 at all, but just a fine brace of sea-cows I 've bagged, 
 for they 're being brought in slung on poles." Need 
 I say that Pat had killed a couple of tame buffaloes 
 as they were swimming in the tank with their noses 
 just above water, and he only got out of his mess by 
 the prompt payment of some forty rupees, and a
 
 OF THE OLD AS'ORLD. 337 
 
 good " wigging " from the commanding officer of the 
 station. 
 
 After B 's story, which was deservedly much 
 
 applauded, whilst we were discussing brandy-panee 
 and cheroots, and talking over the events of the day, 
 
 B and K had a lively discussion regarding 
 
 the relative size and strength of the lion and the 
 tiorer, and as I had had some experience with both, 
 the question was referred to me. I gave it as my 
 opinion that the tiger was the larger and more 
 powerful of the two, but that the lion, generally 
 speaking, showed the most pluck. 
 
 " That is just what I have been contending, Hal," 
 
 exclaimed B ; " but give us a Cape yarn to pass 
 
 away the time, and afterwards we will have a song 
 or two, and turn in, so as to be up betimes in the 
 morning." 
 
 " All right," I replied, wetting my whistle, " I '11 
 give you an account of my first lion. I was rusti- 
 cating at Natal, with an old chum who had given up 
 the service to turn settler, a little way up-country, 
 and was about to convert his sword into a pruning- 
 hook, when one day, as we were sitting under a mat 
 awning in front of the house smoking our manillas 
 after breakfast, a Dutch pedlar, of the name of 
 Vanderhalt, (a well-known character in that colony,) 
 came up and informed us that he had seen a herd of 
 spring-buck in the Berere, a large belt of jungle 
 some few miles distant. S , who was also very 
 
 foml of sport, gave him some tea and a bundle of 
 
 Y
 
 338 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 cheroots, provided he would accompany us and show 
 us their trail, and mounting our nags we set out with 
 our guns and rifles, and, after a ride of five hours, 
 came upon the slots of the herd. These animals, 
 which take their name from the amazing springs 
 they make over bushes, or any obstruction that lies 
 in their path, are rather less than the common deer, 
 and about the same colour, with a white stripe on 
 each side; and a black stripe or mane along the back, 
 which they have the power of closing or expanding. 
 They are sometimes caught with greyhounds, but it 
 takes a good doo- to run them down. Confident in 
 their fleetness, it is very amusing to see the con- 
 temptuous way in which they treat their pursuers ; 
 as they allow them to come near, and then, giving a 
 bomid and a snort, expand the hair on their backs, 
 and change colour, appearing white. They are ex- 
 tremely graceful creatures, jumping beautifully, with 
 the head thrown back, the legs doubled quite under, 
 and the body curved, so that they appear for the 
 moment as if suspended in the air. 
 
 " We were all, the Dutchman included, well 
 mounted on beautiful Cape horses belonging to 
 
 S , and accompanied by a native servant, who 
 
 had followed his master's fortunes over the ' Kala 
 Panee,' (Black Waters,) and a Hottentot boy of the 
 name of Ilans Kleine, (John the Lesser,) who was 
 quite a liisus naturce, for — 
 
 ' His back went in, and his belly stuck out, 
 And Ms lips resembled a grunter's snout.'
 
 OF THE OLD -WOULD. 33D 
 
 But he rode well, and carried a goat's skin full of 
 water, some grog, and a couple of bottles of cognac, 
 
 S was armed with a double fowling-piece ; the 
 
 Dutchman with a huge antediluvian single rifle, 
 nearly six feet in length, called a ' roah ;' and I had 
 my pet double rifle (ten-gauge), loaded with Jacob's 
 cylindro-conical balls, and a smooth-bore of the 
 same calibre, besides pistols in my holsters. "We 
 followed the trail for some time, passing through 
 a series of grassy plains, separated from each other 
 by copses of the delicate-leaved mimosa, covered 
 with golden-yellow blossoms, which emitted a de- 
 lightful perfume, until we came to a river, the banks 
 of which were covered with reeds, twenty yards in 
 breadth ; and as the stream was low, there havinrr 
 been a drought for some time, we managed to find a 
 ford, the water coming up to our saddle-girths. 
 When we arrived at the other side, we perceived 
 from the slots that the herd had scattered over the 
 plain, as if they had been suddenly alarmed ; and, 
 on closer investigation, we found the pugs of two 
 full-grown lions and a pair of half-grown cubs, 
 which fully accounted for the panic that had taken 
 place. It was evident that these animals had been 
 im-king in a mimosa-grove, by the side of the river, 
 and lying in wait for their prey as they came to 
 drink ; and, from the freshness of the pugs, I felt 
 sure they could not be far ofi", so I followed their 
 spoor for about a mile over the plain, (which was 
 hard, firm, and good riding-ground,) until I came
 
 340 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 to a low cone-shaped hill, which I ascended, to 
 get a better survey of the surrounding country. 
 I was sweeping the horizon with my field-glass, 
 which was not of much use on account of a 
 mirage that obstructed the view, and made all 
 distant objects look dim, when ' Kleine,' the 
 Hottentot boy, tapping me on the shoulder, 
 pointed out a flock of vultures that were cir- 
 cling in the air at some short distance, saying, 
 ' Dar ist der verdamt tau ! ' (There is the 
 cursed lion !) I turned my glass to the spot, 
 without distinguishing anything, but on cantering 
 ahead, I soon had the gratification of seeing a full- 
 grown lion and lioness, with two half-grown cubs, 
 feasting on the remains of two spring-bucks. I 
 looked to my nipples, to see the powder was well up, 
 and rode towards them ; but my horse did not at all 
 like the sport, and became so extremely violent and 
 restive, from fear, as to be almost unmanageable, 
 and finding that I should have had no chance of 
 firing from the saddle with any precision, I had to 
 return to S , who, with the Dutchman and ser- 
 vants, had pulled up, on observing the lions, which 
 were game none of them seemed inclined to attack, 
 
 for although S was a fearless hunter, he had 
 
 been sufiering from an inflammation and weakness 
 of the eyes, caused by the excessive glare of the sun 
 reflected from the sand, and his sight was so much 
 affected that he could no longer depend upon his 
 aim as in days of yore. I therefore dismounted, ami
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 341 
 
 prepared to open the campaign on my own hook — 
 trusting to a steady hand and good weapons to see mu 
 safely through it. On my retreat, on account of tho 
 restiveness of my horse, the lion had advanced nearly 
 two hundred yards from the spot where the dead 
 spring-bucks lay, leaving the lioness and cubs still 
 feeding, and he was now coolly surveying our party, 
 stretched out at full length on the grass, with his 
 paws out before him, and yawning listlessly, about 
 four hundred yards distant. On perceiving me ad- 
 vancing towards him, he made a long, low moaning 
 noise, like thunder rumbling among distant hills, by 
 which he thought perhaps to intimidate me ; but 
 finding it had not the desired effect, he got up and 
 sat on his haunches like a dog, making curious whin- 
 ing noises, and turning his head every now and 
 again to look at his mate and cubs, who understand- 
 ing from his growling, which was becoming more 
 and more savage, that something was up, withdrew 
 to some low sand-hills, a short distance away, which 
 I was rather thankful for.. When I got to about 
 two hundred and fifty yards distant, I stopped to 
 unsling my second gun from my shoulder, so as to 
 be ready ; on which my friend sprung to his feet, 
 and made three or four huge bounds towards me, 
 lashing his tail from side to side, showing his teeth, 
 and giving a tremendous roar, which seemed to 
 shake the earth, and caused the horse I had been 
 riding to break from the grasp of the Hottentot, 
 who was holding it, and scour over the plain. On
 
 342 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 seeing me advance, he again stopped, and, coucliing 
 low on his belly, growled in a most savage manner. 
 I felt that ' the die was cast,' and there was no re- 
 treating; it was a regular duel between man and 
 beast, and was beginning to be rather serious work, 
 for we were barely sixty yards asunder. The lion 
 still lay with his head couched between his paws, 
 although every now and then he appeared to rise, 
 and tear up the earth with his hind claws. His 
 eyeballs glistened with rage, his mane stood erect, 
 his tail lashed his flanks, and I felt he was watching 
 my every movement, and that further delay was 
 dangerous. T therefore quietly cocked my second 
 gun, laid it by my side on the ground, and then gave 
 a loud shout, at the same time flinging my pith 
 hunting-cup towards him. This had the desired 
 efifect ; he sprung upon his feet, and at this moment 
 looked grand beyond conception. Now was the 
 moment . I threw up my rifle , took deliberate aim 
 at his broad and massive breast, and let fly. I heard 
 the soft ' thud ' of the ball as it entered his chest, 
 saw him spring high into the air, and fall upon his 
 back. I rushed up to give him a coup de grace, but 
 it was not needed ; a convulsive tremor passed over 
 his sturdy limbs, blood gushed from his nose and 
 mouth, the under-jaw dropped, and my first lion 
 was dead. He was a noble animal, measuring over 
 eleven feet from the tip of his nose to the end of the 
 tail. The lioness and cubs, on hearing the shot, 
 made for a small copse about a mile distant ; and
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 343 
 
 as it was too late in the day to pursue them, after 
 
 S had caufi^ht my horse, we skinned the lion, 
 
 cut off his head as a trophy, packed them behind 
 Kleine's saddle, and made the best of our way back 
 home, where we arrived late in the evening." 
 
 After my yarn, songs passed round until a late 
 hour, and as my old hunting-chaunts had begun to 
 be very stale from frequent repetition, and new ones 
 were not obtainable, I extemporised the following 
 words, and sang them to old English airs, when my 
 turn came round : — 
 
 THE BRITON'S SONG* 
 
 There 's a magical charm in the land of our birth, 
 Which, seek where you will, is not found else on earth ; 
 You may search till you tire, from the pole to the zone. 
 But where will you find such a land as our own ? 
 Her daughters are fairest, and what nation dare brave 
 The Isles' -men of Britain, the Queen of the Wave ? 
 I have roam'd through the world, but I cannot compare 
 Any men with her sons, any maids with her fair. 
 
 CnoRU°, 
 Then fill up your bumpers, and drink to my toast ! 
 I pledge ye " The Island" we all love the most : 
 The gem of the ocean, the pride of the earth. 
 The bulwark of freedom, the Land of our birth ' 
 
 The red cross of Britain is the pride of the main, 
 
 An emblem of freedom, a flag without stain ; 
 
 Go search through creation — on the land, o'er the wave — 
 
 That standard ne'er floats o'er the head of a slave. 
 
 * Afterwards set to music by H. W. A. Beale, Esq.
 
 344 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 Like a meteor it shines, for 'tis borne to the field 
 By those who may die, but who never will yield ; 
 Go search in Fame's volume, you '11 find there its story. 
 And Britain's fair name, midst a halo of glory. 
 
 Chorus. 
 Then fill up your bumpers, and drink to my toast I 
 I pledge ye " The Island" we all love the most : 
 The gem of the ocean, the pride of the earth. 
 The bulwark of freedom, the Land of our birth ! 
 
 THE OLD SONG.* 
 
 There 's something in the well-known tone 
 
 Of ancient ballad lays. 
 That calls to mind, though years have flown. 
 
 The friends of early days. 
 I 've seen them cause the tears to start 
 
 From sternest soldier's eye ; 
 No modern strains could touch his heart 
 
 Like those of days gone by. 
 
 Chorus. 
 Then sing to me the songs of yore ! 
 
 For, though they make me sigh, 
 They bring to mind dear friends once more. 
 
 And happy days gone by. 
 
 I love to hear the ancient lays 
 
 My mother used to sing ! 
 They tell mo of my childhood's days, 
 
 And fond thoughts backwards bring. 
 I dream of days of hope and joy, 
 
 Whene'er I hear that strain ; 
 
 * Afterwards set to music by H. W. A. Beale, Esq., and 
 published by Messrs Ollivier, Bond Street.
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 345 
 
 I thiuk that I am still a boy, 
 And hear her voice again. 
 
 Chorus. 
 Then Bing to me the songs of yore ! 
 
 For, though they make me sigh, 
 They bring to mind dear friends once more. 
 
 And happy days gone by. 
 
 The echoes of the wood were several times 
 awakened by our rattling choruses, which rever- 
 berated in a most strange manner against the face 
 of the cliff overhanging our retreat, and the moon 
 was high in the heavens before we turned in for 
 the night. 
 
 We slept long and soundly, as hunters generally 
 do after a hard day's fag, but as soon as the gray 
 light of dawn appeared, the stirring strains of 
 K 's bugle rang through the valley, and, obey- 
 ing its cheerful summons, we hastily arrayed our- 
 selves in our hunting-gear, assembled round the 
 fire, and partook of a hurried collation previous to 
 ascending the Ghaut. The coolies accompanied us 
 with supplies, as it was our intention to remain for 
 a day or two at my former bivouac at the head of 
 the Fall, in the hope of falling in with the herd of 
 elephants reported to have been seen by the Carders 
 some days previously. We entered the jungle as 
 day was breaking, and, after a tedious ascent, ar- 
 rived at the head of the Fall about noon, where we 
 immediately commenced building a commodious hut, 
 as our former one was too small. As soon as our
 
 346 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 arrangements were completed, B and I started 
 
 on a pot-hunting expedition, K and C 
 
 being too much done-up to accompany us, and, 
 after half an hour's beating, managed to bag a 
 couple of jungle-fowl and five hares, which latter 
 were very much larger than those found in the low 
 country. On our return to the hut with our game, 
 we found such a feast awaiting us that we hardly 
 knew what to commence with, ^^.n immense round 
 of Dawson's celebrated spiced beef was backed up by 
 a Yorkshire ham, a roast squeaker, and a marrow- 
 pie ; besides which, cakes smoking hot from the oven, 
 pilau, curry, and piles of wild raspberries and straw- 
 berries garnished the board. Having done ample 
 justice to our good cheer, we withdrew to the watch- 
 fire, where all our people were assembled, and, after 
 distributing the usual allowance of tobacco and grog 
 to every man in camp, we held a consultation, in 
 which it was determined that we should divide into 
 
 two reconnoitring parties on the morrow : B 
 
 and C , with Chineah and four of the gang, 
 
 forming one ; and K , myself, with Googooloo 
 
 and three others, the second. This settled, we re- 
 tired to the hut, and after a rubber of whist 
 turned in. 
 
 We were up long before the sun the next morn- 
 ing, and, after a hearty breakfast, started at a good 
 pace towards the spot where the Carders had fallen 
 in with the elephants. After half an hour's tramp 
 we came across an old trail, which B 's party
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. ^47 
 
 followed up, whilst mine continued our route 
 through beautiful open teak-jungle, carpeted with 
 green turf, most deliciously soft and elastic under 
 foot. 
 
 There were plenty of bison-tracks everywhere to 
 be seen, some of which were quite fresh ; and Goo- 
 
 gooloo pointed out to K a tuft of herbage that 
 
 had been very recently torn up by one of those ani- 
 mals, as saliva was still remaining on it. We fol- 
 lowed up the trail for a short distance, in the hope 
 of obtaining a shot, but could not get a glimpse of 
 them. Towards noon we fell in with the spoor of 
 an elephant, that appeared to be about twenty-four 
 hours old, and we continued to track it up until late 
 in the afternoon, when, my companion giving evident 
 signs of fatigue, we made j^reparations for passing 
 the night, by building a couple of huts close to a 
 small rivulet, which looked clear and sparkling as 
 a trout-stream in Scotland. It was a beautiful spot 
 for a camp, as on all sides rose hills covered with 
 dense deep-green forest, intersected with innumer- 
 able mountain-streams, which emerged from the 
 trees, and glistened like silver threads in the light 
 of the setting sun. 
 
 Our day's fag told upon us ; for within half an 
 hour after our dinner we were all coiled up in our 
 blankets fast asleep, and did not stir until Googooloo 
 informed us that da^Ti was breaking, when, giving 
 ourselves a shake, we adjourned to the brook to per- 
 form our ablutions whilst breakfast was preparing.
 
 348 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 This finished, we again started on trail ; and as we 
 were following up the spoor of the day before, I 
 found unmistakable signs that a herd of elephants 
 had passed by within a very short time. We imme- 
 diately followed up at our best pace, and in a couple 
 of hours fell in with the rear-guard, consisting of 
 three females, which I had some difficulty in pre- 
 venting my companion from firing at, as they were 
 the fii'st wild elephants he had ever seen. I never 
 cared to pull trigger at the " gentler sex," and, as 
 the herd appeared to number about eleven, I con- 
 cluded there must be a bull amongst them. I told 
 
 K to wait under cover as quietly as possible, 
 
 whilst I went forward to reconnoitre ; but I had 
 hardly left the spot, when I heard a double shot, 
 followed by a scream of rage, and, turning back, to 
 my horror I saw my companion running for his life 
 through the jungle, with a tusker closely following 
 him tail on end. The elephant, notwithstanding 
 his apparently unwieldy shape, gets over the ground 
 much faster than one would suppose, and poor 
 
 K would have had no chance if he had not 
 
 been able to dodge him, by running round trees. 
 I could not for the moment get a fair shot at any 
 vulnerable part ; but, seeing that the elephant had 
 got so near that he could almost have reached him 
 with his trunk, I let drive a double shot at his ear, 
 
 and brought him to his knees, which gave K 
 
 time to clamber up into a tree. It was a very near 
 touch, for he was breathless, and another few seconds
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 3 4 9 
 
 would have seen him trampled under foot ; as it 
 was, I was able to despatch the tusker ^'ith my 
 second gun, which Googooloo handed to me just as 
 he began to recover himself, and was getting on his 
 
 knees. K told me that the moment I left him 
 
 he heard a slight rustling in the cover close to 
 where we were standing, and almost immediately 
 the tusker made his appearance, coming directly 
 towards him, when he fired a couple of hurried 
 shots and took to his heels, seeing that he did 
 not drop. I fancy that he must have lost his pre- 
 sence of mind when he saw the huge brute advanc- 
 ing towards him, as only one of his shots had taken 
 effect, and that high up in the forehead. I con- 
 gratulated him upon his escape, which was certainly 
 due more to good luck than good management, as, 
 in the position I was in, and the distance, it must 
 have been entirely a chance shot of mine that 
 dropped him. The sound of our guns caused a 
 great panic in the herd ; and they rushed about 
 crashing through the jungle at a great pace, which 
 led me to suppose that they would not pull up until 
 they had covered a good deal of ground ; and as 
 
 K found he had sprained his ankle in his 
 
 flight, which prevented him from walking comfort- 
 ably, we gave up all thoughts of further pursuit. 
 Leaving two of our people to cut out the tusks, 
 which were small, not exceeding thirty pounds in 
 weight, we made the best of our way back to the 
 hut, where we found B 's party busily occupied
 
 350 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS, ETC. 
 
 in preserving the skins of two bison, which they had 
 killed the day previous. 
 
 During the afternoon, heavy banks of dark clouds 
 arose, which I knew prognosticated a storm ; so we 
 strengthened our hut, and spread extra combleys on 
 the weather-side, so as to make it impervious to the 
 weather. Hardly were our preparations completed, 
 when the sky became uniformly black and gleam- 
 less, except when illuminated at intervals by the 
 flashes of bluish-white lightning, and the thunder, 
 reverberating among the mountains like the rolling 
 of distant artillery, now came nearer and nearer, 
 until it seemed to peal directly overhead, whilst the 
 rain, in a perfect deluge, poured down upon the hot 
 earth with that peculiar hissing sound heard only 
 in the tropical climates. Later in the evening, the 
 storm passed over, and the night became bitterly 
 cold, dense vapours rising from the ground, which 
 could not be otherwise than unhealthy ; so it was 
 determined to commence a retrograde movement. 
 We accordingly started early the next morning for 
 our hut in the valley below, packed up our traps, 
 and halted for the night at the public bungalow 
 near the village ot Annamullay. The next day we 
 pushed on to Coimbatore, where we remained a 
 couple of days, as B— — was suffering from diar- 
 rho3a, and then returned to my domicile at Ootaca- 
 mund
 
 PART II.-CIRCASSIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 
 Omer Pacha. — My followers. — Bashi-Bazouks. — Houssain the 
 Arnoiit. — Ahmed the Koord. — Ali the Nubian. — Mahomed 
 the Arab. — Sied Cassim the Dervish. — Abdulla the guide, — 
 Captain Dymock's grave. — Godova. — Wild-fowl. — A heavy 
 bag. — The climate of Circassia. — The inhabitants : their man- 
 ners, customs, and dress. — Circassian women. — The Illori 
 chieftain. — The " Faithful," and the "forbidden indulgence." 
 Ompr Pacha a humbug. — His reputation amongst the Turkish 
 officers. — His wound accounted for. — His acquisitiveness and 
 plunder. — A fearful chase by wolves. — The Turkish Colonel's 
 advice. — Sulleiman Pacha. — His purchase. — Pi,evolt of the 
 Hareem. — The catastrophe and finale. 
 
 After the fall of Sevastopol, I was attached, with 
 several other British officers, to the general staff of 
 that part of the Ottoman army under the command 
 of Omer Pacha, which was destined to relieve Sir 
 William Williams and the brave garrison of Kars, 
 then closely invested by General Mouravietf ; but, 
 disgusted with the dilatory and vacillating conduct
 
 352 THE HUNTING GEOrNDS 
 
 of a leader whose cowardice or treachery allowed 
 the sole object of the expedition to fail, 1 obtained 
 leave to throw up my appointment and return to 
 the Crimea, where I hoped again to partake of more 
 stirring deeds. But it was not to be — "the de'il 
 confound the ministry ! " they began to make peace 
 at the time we had just warmed to our work, and 
 when we were best able to carry on the war the 
 armistice was signed, peace concluded, and "Othello's 
 occupation gone." Finding it was uncertain when 
 a steamer was likely to touch at Tchamshira, the 
 nearest point of embarkation to Sugdidi, where ihe 
 head-quarters of the army were established, I re- 
 solved to go to Suchum Kaleh by land, amusing 
 myself with shooting amongst the lower spurs of 
 the Caucasus en route. 
 
 Besides a guide, I had five well-tried followers, 
 whom I had picked up from amongst the Bashi- 
 Bazouks during the campaign of the Danube : a 
 fearless set of men, ever true to their salt, who 
 cared neither for laws nor Pachas, and who, being 
 used to campaigning and foraging, were just the 
 fellows to have about one in a country where " might 
 is right," and " he may take who has the power, and 
 he may keep who can ;" for, although the Russians 
 liad vacated those districts some time previously, 
 predatory bands of Abassians, Mingrelians, and 
 Circassians were continually prowlmg about, not 
 particularly nice as to whom they plundered. We 
 were all well armed and mounted on Arabs, or
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 353 
 
 sturdy little Kurdish horses, besides having three 
 shaggy mountain ponies to carry our baggage, or 
 rather to carry whatever we might pick up, for a 
 Bashi-Bazouk always returns heavier laden than 
 when he set out, if he knows his trade. 
 
 The cognomen " Bashi-Bazouk " is a composite 
 Turkish word for a class of individuals who would 
 be allowed to exist in no country in the world save 
 Turkey, or perhaps Central America, where the 
 term " filibuster " appears to be almost synonymous. 
 It is derived from " Bash," a head ; " ba," without ; 
 " zouk," bra{7is — literally, though not in reality, " a 
 head without brains : " certainly not an appropriate 
 name for men who have to live by their wits. 
 Among the horde I commanded on the Danube 
 before our troops landed at Varna, I counted men 
 of twenty-seven different nations and castes. 
 
 My troop were a queer set, and merit a slight 
 description. Hoossain, an Arnout, had been a 
 " chaus " or sergeant, in one of the Turkish regi- 
 ments engaged at Silistria, and having been de- 
 puted to wait upon me by Moosa Pacha, (the gallant 
 Arab leader who was afterwards killed on the ram- 
 parts by the explosion of a shell during the siege,) 
 found my service preferable to soldiering, at the 
 nominal pay of twenty piastres per mensem, (then 
 twenty-two months in arrears,) and, as he was a 
 plucky, honest, and useful fellow, I kept him always 
 with me. Fortune had dealt kindly with him ; and 
 as he had managed, by hook or by crook, to amass 
 
 z
 
 35-i THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 a suflBcient quantity of gear and sundries to enable 
 him to smoke his pipe in comfort for the remainder 
 of his life, he had given up all intentions of joining 
 his regiment again. In camp before Sevastopol, 
 during the siege, he was a well-known character, 
 glorying in the name of " Ingleese Jonnie," for, by 
 dint of " turinkles " picked up from an old corporal 
 of Zouaves, my chef de cuisine, and sundry lessons 
 from poor old Soyer, now, alas ! gone to " kingdom 
 come/' he was no despicable cook, and formed a 
 great addition to any party " sub tegmine fagi," 
 whether out foraging in front of the enemy near 
 Baidar, or picnicking with amateur campaigners at 
 the Monastery of St George. 
 
 The second, Ahmed, was a Koord, one of the 
 followers of the Princess Kara Fathama, and a 
 " mulassim," or lieutenant, of Bashi-Bazouks ; a 
 fearless, devil-may-care kind of fellow, who, having 
 received some fancied insult and extortion from a 
 Pacha, hated all Turkish authorities like poison, 
 and seemed to glory in setting them at defiance. 
 He was strikingly handsome, a splendid horseman, 
 a famous fellow in a brush, and the beau-id^al of a 
 Bashi-Bazouk. 
 
 The third, Ali, commonly called " Kutchuc," (the 
 Little One,) was a Nubian of colossal proj^ortions 
 and gigantic strength, who was devoted to me, I 
 having saved him from the Cossacks in an affair on 
 the Danube, after he had been disabled by several 
 severe wounds, and abandoned by his comrades
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 355 
 
 which service he amply repaid afterwards, when I, 
 in my turn, was laid on my back, by his constant 
 attention and unwearied care for my wants. 
 
 The fourth, Mahomed, was an Arab, or rather a 
 Khabyle by birth, who had fought with the P>inir 
 Abdel-Kader against the French, and, having been 
 obliged to fly his country, had entered the corps of 
 Bashi-Bazouks, from whence I took him to look 
 after my horses, he being a first-rate groom. 
 
 The fifth, Sied Cassim, was a Hindostanee from 
 Northern India, who, being of a roving disposition, 
 had turned " Fakeer," or dervish ; and, after having 
 performed the " Hadj," or pilgrimage to Mecca, had 
 wandered all over Asia Minor and Persia, and at last 
 enrolled himself in the ranks of the Bashi-Bazouks. 
 He was a trustworthy fellow, and, being a good 
 scholar in Persian, Hindostanee, Arabic, and 
 Turkish, used to act as paymaster, or rather as the 
 divider of the spoils, and keep the accounts, from 
 which he usually went by the name of the " Vakeel," 
 or secretary. He claimed also to be a descendant 
 of the prophet, and always wore the significant 
 badge, a green turban. 
 
 Our guide, Abdidla, was likewise a Hindostanee 
 by birth, but had left his country when a child with 
 an Arab cloth-merchant, who had sold him to the 
 Circassians, by whom he had been adopted as one of 
 themselves. He was a great chum of Cassim's, and 
 I took him into my service, as he had a good know- 
 ledge of the Circassian and Abassian languages, as
 
 356 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 well as the various dialects of the different moun- 
 tain tribes, and was well acquainted with the country. 
 Being quite a youth, he generally went by the name 
 of " Chojack," (the Young One.) His office was 
 that of interpreter, and he was charged with the 
 care of five very handsome greyhounds and a pointer, 
 which fell into my hands by the fortune of war, and 
 furnished me with many a game dinner when nothing 
 else was procurable. 
 
 We left Sugdidi early in the morning, crossing 
 the Ingur by the redoubt which was thrown up by 
 the Ottoman troops after they had forced the pas- 
 sage on the morning of the 7th November, when 
 poor Captain Dymock fell, shot through the heart, 
 whilst he was leading the column to the attack. 
 We buried him close to where he fell, under two 
 beautiful trees, covered with festoons of wild vine. 
 I stayed a few moments to take a hurried sketch of 
 a brave comrade's last resting-place, and then rode 
 on to Godova, on the coast, where we arrived about 
 three p.m. 
 
 I was most hospitably received by an old colonel 
 of infantry, who, with his regiment, was left in charge 
 of some stores ; and in a marsh near the village I 
 killed a couple of pintail ducks, three couple of snipe, 
 and a bittern, and "Guimish," (Silver,) one of my 
 greyhounds, caught a hare. 
 
 The country round about Godova is densely 
 wooded ; oak, ash, chesnut, walnut, and most kinds 
 of European fruit-trees seeming to grow indigenous
 
 OF THE OLD WOULD. 357 
 
 and ill the wildest luxuriance, whilst the loveliest 
 flowers bloom in perfection ; amongst which I noticed 
 the tulip, anemone, hyacinth, ranunculus, rose, pink, 
 jasmine, and violet, besides numberless other species 
 with which I was not previously acquainted. The 
 lower spurs of the Caucasus, the grandest of mountain 
 ranges, rise about seven miles to the eastward of the 
 village, and run parallel to the coast. The lower 
 ranges are clothed with dense and almost impene- 
 trable primeval forest, whilst the higher are covered 
 with perpetual snow, and generally enshrouded by 
 mists. 
 
 The heavy falls of rain, and the melting of snow 
 and ice on the momitains, in the summer, when the 
 power of the sun is strong, swell the numerous rivers 
 and watercourses into mighty torrents, causing them 
 to overllow their banks and inundate the surrounding 
 country ; forming large marshes or bogs, which, at 
 certain seasons of the year, are almost alive with 
 waterfowl of different kinds, whilst snipe and wood- 
 cock are to be found in thousands. 
 
 It is my belief that swans, ducks, and geese of all 
 kinds, besides snipe and woodcock, choose these 
 secluded and almost inaccessible spots to breed in, 
 migrating here for that purpose from all the other 
 comitries of Europe. I have killed seventeen dif- 
 ferent species of duck and teal in one j heel, the water 
 in places where the weed abounded on which they 
 feed being black with them. Tliey were evidently 
 unaccustomed to the sound of a gun, for, when the
 
 358 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 echoes of the report died away in the distant hills, 
 they would settle down in the same place without 
 taking alarm, although each discharge brought down 
 about a dozen of their number. The bag that might 
 be made may be estimated from the fact that 1 killed 
 in one day in a jheel near the foot of the Abassadagh 
 Mountain, fourteen miles from Tshamshira, thirty- 
 four brace of woodcock, eleven couple of snipe, seven 
 geese, and sixty-one ducks ; and could have continued 
 the slaughter, were it not that the villagers, for whose 
 benefit it was intended, declared that they could not 
 carry more away. I think I must have flushed that 
 day at least a hundred brace of cock, besides snipe 
 innumerable. I hope my reader will not imagine 
 from this account that I at all countenance or am in 
 favour of such wholesale destruction as a general 
 thing ; but it must be remembered that at this time 
 I had many mouths to feed, that food of any kind 
 was at a premium, and I had nothing in store ex- 
 cept mouldy Turkish ration biscuit, full of weevils 
 and other such indescribable animalculse. 
 
 The climate, soil, and magnificence of scenery 
 render the east coast of the Black Sea one of the 
 most beautiful and interesting countries in the world. 
 It is abundantly irrigated by numberless rivers flow- 
 ing from the mountains, and the valleys are extremely 
 fertile, producing cotton, rice, wheat, millet, Indian 
 corn, hemp, flax, and quantities of excellent grasses, 
 with little labour ; yet the inhabitants are generally 
 poor, holding in contempt agriculture and all em-
 
 OP THE OLD WORLD. 369 
 
 ploymcnts of a peaceful kind. They are divided into 
 several nations, tribes, and castes, which arc a^^aiii 
 subdivided. The principal are the Tclierkesses, the 
 Kabardines, the Abassians, the Mingrelians, and the 
 Georgians. The Tcherkesses, or Circassians, said to 
 be derived from the Tyches, (who settled in the 
 country several centuries ago,) are essentially moun- 
 taineers, and have many qualities in common with 
 the Scottish Highlanders of the olden day. Their 
 element is war, and they possess all the characteristics 
 peculiar to the inhabitants of lofty regions, being 
 divided into tribes and clans, each of which is 
 governed by a chief invested with the power of life 
 and death over his followers. They chiefly profess 
 the Mohammedan religion, but, having no written 
 language, their faith diff'ers considerably from that 
 of other Mussulmans ; a traditionary history and code 
 of laws, which has been transmitted from age to age, 
 and become hallowed from its antiquity, being sub- 
 stituted for the Koran. The old men act as judges, 
 and settle all the affairs of the community, subject 
 to the supreme authority of the chief, whose will is 
 law They are an exceedingly fine and handsome 
 race, the men being tall, well-made, and muscular, 
 though rather of slight build, with pleasing features, 
 flowing beards, and remarkably small hands and 
 feet. 
 
 The dress of the common people in some respects 
 resembles that of the Tartars, but is more elegant ; 
 it consists of a sheepskin cap with high peak of gray
 
 3G0 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 cloth, white or yellow linen tight-fitting trousers, 
 yellow boots, and shirt-like tunic, bound with gold 
 or silver lace, having on each side of the breast 
 cases made of morocco for holding cartridges. 
 Their arms are a kind of rifled matchlock, pistol, 
 sabre, and broad, heavy, double-edged poniard. 
 Their chiefs or nobles, however, present a much more 
 brilliant spectacle when in full dress, being clad, 
 like our knights of old, in coats of mail composed 
 of rings of steel joined together with the most 
 beautiful workmanship, and armed with damas- 
 cened sabres, daggers, and richly-ornamented pis- 
 tols, often inlaid with gold. 
 
 Their women have long been celebrated for their 
 extreme beauty, the harems of Constantinople being 
 kept supplied from the descendants of slaves, though 
 not, as is generally supposed, from the families of 
 the free tribes. They are of slender and elegant 
 figures, with regular features, white skin, and dark 
 brown or black hair, with blue eyes. They are in 
 general neither reserved nor confined, but at the 
 ao-e of ten or twelve years they are incased in a 
 broad leathern band tightly sewn round the waist, 
 which they wear until marriage. Over a low-cut 
 chemise they wear a long laced jacket with wide 
 trousers, and they heighten their beauty by paint- 
 ing their eyebrows with a preparation of antimony 
 called "soormah," and stain the nails of the toes 
 and fingers with henna. Their hair is generally 
 plaited and falls down the back, and a small sheep-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 3G1 
 
 sliin cap, with the upper part embroidered, is com- 
 monly worn. 
 
 Their villages consist only of "konaks" or log- 
 huts, plastered with clay inside, and seldom con- 
 taining more than one room. A wooden bench or 
 sedan runs all round, and one part, covered with 
 matting, serves as a bed. The only furniture or 
 garniture are the saddles, arms, and a few brass or 
 copper cooking utensils. 
 
 The customs of ancient Sparta are in some de- 
 gree in force amongst them, the youths being 
 brought up in all bodily exercises calculated to in- 
 crease strength and agility — such as riding, run- 
 ning, wrestling, shooting, and they are accustomed 
 to endure hunger and fatigue. To fall in the field 
 is considered an honour, and to kill an enemy a 
 triumph ; stealing is also allowed and encouraged, 
 that is, provided it is not found out, for if the cul- 
 prit is detected, he is bound to restore the stolen 
 property sevenfold. Murder or crime is generally 
 punished by fine, more or less, according to the 
 rank of the victim. 
 
 Some of the Kabardines and Abassians profess a 
 kind of Christianity, but they are a more degenerate 
 and treacherous race than the Circassians, who, 
 though cruel crafty enemies, are extremely hospit- 
 able and more to be depended upon. 
 
 A petty chieftain, who lived with his tribe in the 
 mountains to the northward of Illori, dined with us:, 
 and as he spoke Turkish tolerably well and was
 
 362 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 exceedingly communicative, I gleaned a good deal 
 of useful information about the country and the 
 kind of game that was likely to be met with. Ac- 
 cording to his account, bears of an immense size, as 
 well as wolves, hyenas, and jackals were to be found 
 on the mountains, besides red-deer, wild cattle, hog, 
 wild goats, and sheep, (which latter proved to be 
 ibex and chamois.) He invited me to visit his 
 ''konak" en route, and undertook to show me game 
 of different kinds, which offer I was glad to accept. 
 
 "When the repast was over, coffee served, and the 
 servants out of the way, I produced a little keg of 
 brandy ; and notwithstanding we were all supposed 
 to be good Mussulmans, it went round merrily, and 
 opened the hearts of " the Faithful." 
 
 The "cratur" made the eyes of the old Osmanli 
 colonel glisten again, and as the keg passed round 
 pretty often, it soon began to show its effects, ren- 
 dering him extremely loquacious, and he recounted 
 several very amusing incidents of his early service, 
 besides expatiating, in the strongest of Turkish Bil- 
 lingsgate, against the Sirdar Ekrem Omer Pacha, 
 whom he denounced as an arch-humbug, who has 
 usurped the credit of other men's acts, and gained 
 the position he held by cringing servility, base in- 
 trigue, and despicable chicanery — being totally 
 destitute of all those qualities which he ought to 
 possess, not only as a general, but a man. He was 
 said never to have been under fire except on one 
 occasion when he could not help himself, (at Eupa-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 363 
 
 toria ;) and the small scar he has on his wrist, 
 which he often brags about, and shows to strangers 
 as a wound, was thus accounted for : — During one 
 of the outbreaks of the " Eyahs " or Christian sub- 
 jects of the Porte, in Southern Turkey, he was sent 
 in command of a body of troops against a walled vil- 
 lage not very far from Monastir, whicli was vigorously 
 defended by the inhabitants, armed only with match- 
 locks and ataghans. A long-continued drought had 
 dried up most of the wells in the enceinte of the 
 place, and the besieged had to obtain their supply 
 from a spring in the ditch outside the walls, which 
 task was generally imdertaken by the women and 
 children after nightfall. This fact was communi- 
 cated to Omer Pacha by some of his sycophants, 
 and he ordered the small brass rifled mountain- 
 piece, which he always keeps in front of his tent, to 
 be pointed so as to command the source on a risino- 
 ground far out of range of the small-arms of the 
 garrison. During the night a noise was heard in 
 the ditch by some of the advanced sentries, and the 
 Pacha was informed that the villagers were drawing 
 water : he immediately rushed to his gim and loaded 
 it, not knowing that one of his staff had previously 
 made it all ready for him. When he applied the 
 match, the piece, being doubly charged, recoiled 
 violently, knocking down the Pacha on the broad 
 of his back, with half a dozen of his hangers-on, 
 and injuring his wrist. Thus is the only wound 
 Omer Pacha ever received accounted for, and it is
 
 364 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 not to be wondered at if he never mentions how 
 and when he got it. 
 
 Omer Pacha had appropriated to himself the whole 
 of the plunder of Princess Dadien's palace at Sug- 
 didi, despatching for his own use, at Constantinople, 
 a magnificent collection of furniture, consisting of 
 chairs and couches covered with crimson velvet, 
 beautiful inlaid tables, magnificent chandeliers, and 
 articles of virtu, which looked like recent importa- 
 tions from Paris. The tame deer and peafowl were 
 killed for his table, and the exotic plants trans- 
 ported to his garden at Stamboul. 
 
 Story-telling is a great amusement amongst the 
 Turks, and each of us in his turn had to contribute 
 some anecdote for the amusement of the rest. 
 
 The Abassian chief gave us a very thrilling 
 account of the loss of five of his tribe, with some 
 prisoners, by wolves, during the winter of 1852, 
 when the whole country lay covered with snow for 
 months together. It appears that a force had been 
 collected and sent out in the plains to harass and 
 annoy the Russians, but having met with a reverse, 
 they scattered, and each tribe made the best of their 
 way homeward. The Abassian party, to which the 
 narrator belonged, consisted of eleven men fairly 
 mounted and armed with matchlocks, pistols, and 
 swords, with five prisoners — four Eussian soldiers 
 and a woman. As they were traversing a vast 
 steppe or plain they perceived a pack of seven wolves 
 slowly following them, of which number they killed
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 30') 
 
 two or three with their matchlocks, for the sake of 
 the fur, and, dispersing the rest, continued their 
 journey. Shortly afterwards a strange howling noise 
 was heard in the reai-, whicli at first sounded like 
 the roaring of the wind, but afterwards increased to 
 such a pitch, that they thought Jehannura (the in- 
 fernal regions) was turned loose, and that the cry 
 they had heard was the exulting laugh of the " gins '' 
 and " afrits," (evil spirits,) whom they believe to 
 inhabit the impenetrable snows of j\Iount El-bruz. 
 At length their attention was called to a dark mass 
 of black objects spreading over the snow, like a cloud 
 on the horizon, and the full extent of their danger 
 now burst upon them, for they knew they were pur- 
 sued by a horde of wolves. 
 
 Their horses were already fatigued with a long 
 day's journey, but terror seemed to give them wings, 
 for they tore along as if they knew their peril, and 
 for a while seemed to hold their own. The nearest 
 " konak" or hamlet was at least two " saat" or seven 
 miles distant, and the ground was in many places so 
 deep with drifted snow that their horses could hardly 
 get along. The crisis was now evidently fiist ap- 
 proaching, for the advanced troop were almost within 
 gun-shot, howling and yelling as wolves only can. 
 A brief consultation was held, and it was determined 
 to sacrifice the prisoners one by one, so as to gain 
 time for the rest to escape. The woman met her fate 
 first. One of their number stepping behind, drew 
 his sabre across the hocks of her horse, hamstringing
 
 S66 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 it, and causing both to fall heavily to the ground. 
 Her shrieks, as well as the cry of the horse in his 
 death agony, rang through their ears for a moment, 
 and then all was still. They anxiously looked back, 
 and found that this desperate expedient had enabled 
 them to gain a considerable distance on their pur- 
 suers, but it was not for long ; they were soon again 
 on their heels, when a Eussian soldier was sacrificed 
 by shooting his horse ; a second, third, and fourth 
 followed, and much time was gained and a consider- 
 able distance covered : still their insatiable foes 
 pressed on, apparently more ferocious than before, 
 for their appetite was whetted with the taste of blood. 
 They now commenced discharging their firearms 
 amongst them, but it was of no avail, for although 
 many fell, the rest rushed on, and the course of the 
 horde was not stayed. The horses of two of their 
 number now gave up, and fell with shrieks that told 
 they knew the fate that awaited them ; and although 
 their riders were swift of foot, they could not keep 
 up their speed for any length of time in the deep 
 snow, and soon became fatigued, so bidding their 
 comrades farewell, they resigned themselves to their 
 " kismet," (destiny,) drew their yatagans, and shout- 
 ing their battle-cry, died like men, fighting to the 
 last. The survivors were now within a couple of 
 miles from shelter,' but their horses were almost worn 
 out, the leading wolves hardly a pistol-shot behind, 
 and gaining upon them rapidly — another moment, 
 and they expected to feel their fangs, when an old
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 1567 
 
 man, whose two sons were also present, seeing the 
 hopelessness of the case, bade his comrades farewell, 
 and shouting out the " imaun " (Moliammedan 
 creed) as a death-song, felled his horse to the ground 
 with the heavy butt of his pistol, as he could not rein 
 up the scared animal, and oflered himself a willing 
 sacrifice to save the rest. On tore the survivors, now- 
 reduced to eight in number, and on followed their 
 relentless pursuers, now again only half a dozen 
 horses' length behind. In spite of all their eftbrts, 
 their doom seemed sealed, and their case hopeless, 
 when their chief, giving an expressive look to the 
 narrator, drew his pistol and shot the man nearest 
 to him through the head. He threw up his arms 
 and dropped the reins, but although stone-dead he 
 sat firm in the saddle, the affrighted animal carrying 
 him until a second discharge brought both to the 
 ground. Again the pursuit was checked for a time, 
 and the konak appeared in view ; luckily the door 
 was open, for it was deserted, men and horses rushed 
 in, the door was closed, and a ponderous bar drawn 
 across inside, when suddenly a loud heart-rending 
 yell was heard from without, above the howling of 
 the wolves, and they saw through the chinks be- 
 tween the logs, one of their comrades whose horse 
 had broken down and lagged behind, unperceived 
 by the rest, surrounded by the horde and fighting 
 desperately — a moment more and he was pulled from 
 the saddle, and both man and horse devoured before 
 their eyes. Then the wolves surrounded the hut.
 
 368 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 and, finding themselves balked of their prey, began 
 to fio-ht with each other, at times endeavouring 
 to scratch away the earth under the logs or force 
 their ways through the crevices, but the hut being 
 substantially constructed resisted all their efforts, 
 and a deadly discharge of firearms was kept up from 
 the interior, which thinned their numbers, and re- 
 venged their fallen friends, but the dead wolves were 
 speedily devoured by the survivors, who remained 
 howling and shrieking round the hut until the night 
 of the second day, when a violent storm arose, and 
 they took themselves ofi" in the dark, much to the 
 relief of the six survivors, who, seeing the coast clear, 
 made the best of their way to their homes. 
 
 "Allah kereem, (God be merciful,) but you had 
 a wonderful escape ! " exclaimed the old colonel, 
 when the Illori chieftain had finished his story. 
 " I thank Kismut (fate) that I was not with you on 
 that day, or I should have stood but a poor chance 
 in your desperate race for life, (he weighed at least 
 eighteen stone,) and a shudder comes over me when 
 I think of it ; and if I were you, Ingleese Bey ! 
 (so he termed me,) I should give up all idea of 
 rambling about this desolate country, where one 
 sees nothing but mountains, trees, rivers, and mud ; 
 may go a moon's journey without falling in with a 
 ca/^, and where fighting comes oftener than one's 
 dinner. Be advised, and embark at once for Stam- 
 boul, where you may enjoy your ' kieftV (a dreamy 
 state of listless idleness, peculiar to the Turks,) and
 
 OF THE OLD WOELD. 369 
 
 smoke your chibouk, surrounded with dark-eyed 
 beauties, whose voices are more melodious than the 
 cries of jackals, whose kisses are more desirable 
 than the bites of wolves, and whose embraces are 
 preferable to the hugs of bears. Heigh Allah ! 
 when shall I see the blessed place again ? " 
 
 " Shabash ! (Bravo !) Bey Elfendi ! " I exclaimed ; 
 " you are too greedy, and it is fortunate that every 
 one is not of your opinion, or some would come 
 poorly off; for where are all the women to come 
 from, if every man required a troop ? I am more 
 moderate, being content with one at a time ; be- 
 sides which, I do not like having a continual ' kara- 
 balik' (disturbance) in the house, which is always 
 the case when women get together ; for I am of the 
 same opinion as the sage, who says that it is an 
 easier task to rule a thousand men than to control 
 two women ; and to prove that my theory is cor- 
 rect, I will relate to you the sad fate of a man you 
 all knew, who owed all his misfortunes to taking 
 one woman too many in his establishment. 
 
 " Sulleiman Pacha, late commandant of the first 
 brigade that landed in the Crimea, was formerly a 
 collector of customs in the Pachalik of Widdin, and 
 subsequently held some lucrative civil appointment 
 at Stamboul. Tax-gathering, for a number of 
 years, had made Sulleiman Aga a rich man ; and 
 through the interest of Mehemet AH Pacha, backed 
 up with a large packet of ' kaima,' (paper-money.) 
 the Aga was made a Lever Pacha, (General of 
 
 2 A
 
 370 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 Brigade,) and things went on swimmingly for a 
 time. One day, however, the horizon of his destiny 
 was darkened with the cloud of misfortune ; for as 
 he was enjoying his chibouk at a caf6 near the 
 'Buyuk Chouk,' (Grand Bazaar,) he was accosted 
 by an old friend, and in an evil moment accepted an 
 invitation to accompany him to a slave-merchant's 
 'khan,' in order to select a Nubian eunuch as a 
 guardian for his harem. This matter settled, the 
 slave-merchant took them to see a magnificent 
 Georgian damsel, who was considered to be the 
 finest importation for many years. Her price was 
 eighty thousand piastres, (about six hundred pounds 
 sterling,) and Sulleiman Pacha became so captivated 
 with her appearance that, notwithstanding he was 
 an elderly man, and had three wives at home, he 
 became the purchaser ; and the object of his affec- 
 tions was ordered to be conveyed to his garden- 
 house near Scutari, on the extreme quiet, so that 
 his other wives might hear nothing about it. The 
 Pacha thought he observed a diabolical twinkle in 
 the eye of the slave-dealer when, after he had re- 
 ceived his money, he wished him ' every felicity ; ' 
 but at the moment he merely thought he had been 
 cheated out of some piastres, which, being rich, he 
 did not care about, never imagining that he would 
 have such cause to repent his bargain. The cun- 
 ning old fox then went home, and informed his 
 wives that he was obliged to start on a journey, 
 and after taking an afiectionate farewell he set off
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 371 
 
 for his country house. His reception could not 
 have proved very satisfactory, nor did he ever dis- 
 close to me what actually passed, for although he 
 has often related his grievances to me, at this point 
 he invariably worked himself up in such a rage, 
 that I could make out little but a lon^^ strinf of 
 curses against a cat-like fiend who must have 
 escaped from ' Jehanum,' (the infernal regions,) so 
 I concluded he got his face clawed. However, he 
 admitted that he spent the night in a neighbourinf^ 
 cafe, and when he went home the next morning he 
 found a mutiny had taken place in his harem ; for 
 whether his scratched face and disordered appear- 
 ance told tales, or some maliciously inclined persons 
 had given his wives an insight into the affair, he 
 knew not, but he was received with torrents of 
 abuse. One knocked his turban off, a second 
 pulled his beard, the third spat in his face, and 
 they all left the marks of their nails on his person, 
 besides belabouring him with the heels of their 
 slippers until he was almost insensible, when the 
 guardians of the fold of the ' third sex ' came to the 
 rescue, and enabled him to get out of their clutches. 
 Finding himself driven out of house and home, he 
 grew desperate, and, being weary of his life, went 
 for a soldier, thinking to terrify the household into 
 subordination, for he had no idea of going to fight ; 
 and the Seraskier (Minister of War) gave him the 
 command of a brigade of 'redifs,' (militia,) which, 
 unfortunatelv for our hero, were the first troops
 
 872 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 
 
 ordered out on active service in the Crimea, and he 
 was obliged to go. Although not actually engaged, 
 he saw quite enough at the battle of the Alma to 
 turn his stomach against the profession he had 
 chosen, and satisfy himself that the smell of powder 
 did not agree with his constitution ; so, after a 
 solemn consultation with his second in command. 
 Colonel Haleem Bey, as great a poltroon as himself, 
 both parties decamped one fine morning, without 
 beat of drum, and found their way to Stamboul ; 
 for which act the Seraskier Eiza Pacha brought 
 them up before the Mejlis (Council of War) on a 
 charge 'of having cowardly abandoned their post 
 in the field before the enemy ; ' and in the presence 
 of all the troops they were degraded from their re- 
 spective ranks, and are now vegetating in prison. 
 
 " This finale was, however, against my interests, 
 as one evening before the Pacha left the Crimea, 
 when we were talking about the chances of an 
 engagement at an early period, he said, 'You are 
 an Englishman, and like fighting, and cannot be 
 afraid of a woman ; so what do you say to taking 
 my eighty thousand piastres' worth off" my hands ? 
 She is as good as when I bought her, and I will 
 give you a house and garden with her, and adopt 
 you as a son.' Of course I closed with his offer at 
 once, but our little arrangement was put an end to 
 by his sentence ; so you see, my friends, that the old 
 adage is true which says, ' Wherever there is misfor- 
 tune, a woman is sure to be at the bottom of it.' "
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Circassian scenery. — A false alarm. — The Bey's konak. — Riflea 
 and revolvers. — Circassian cuisine.— A goose cooked ii la Mrs 
 Harris. — Uninvited company. — News of a bear. — A night 
 prowler. — A huntsman's toilet. — The route through the 
 ravines. — The lair. — The Bey's dogs give tongue. — An enor 
 mous bear wounded. — A man mauled. — The Bruin bites the 
 dust. — The bivouac. — Horses stolen. — Mussulman apathy. — 
 The pursuit. — The trail. — The plunderers surprised and taken. 
 — Their punishment. 
 
 The next morning we all set out with the Illori 
 chieftain, and after a four hours' ride through a 
 densely-wooded country, arrived at the gorge of a 
 romantically picturesque valley, which appeared to 
 wind its way for several miles between two lofty 
 mountain ridges, forming a part of the chain of the 
 Caucasus ; a tortuous path, so narrow that we were 
 obliged to ride in single file, and keep a sliarp look- 
 out that we did not come in contact with overhang- 
 ing rocks or branches of trees, wound along the edge 
 of a chasm, in which a foaming mountain-torrent 
 dashed impetuously ; and at times we passed along 
 the brinks of precipices which made the head giddv
 
 374 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 to look over. Here and there gigantic forest trees 
 stood out in bold relief, and towering crags of 
 castellated form rose in every direction, whilst 
 patches of gorgeous flowers of various colours were 
 seen among the luxuriant herbage, adding their rich 
 tints, as if to harmonise with the exquisite beauty 
 of the surrounding scenery. 
 
 As we were picking our way over the strong bed 
 of a mountain-stream which had cleft a wide open- 
 ing through the forest, I was rather startled by 
 hearing the sharp crack of a rifle, and the " ping" 
 of a bullet high over our heads, which, from the 
 streak of smoke, evidently came from a high rocky 
 crag commanding the ford on the opposite bank ; 
 and, instinctively, both myself and followers, appre- 
 hensive of treachery, unslung our rifles, and pre- 
 pared for action by springing from our saddles and 
 taking advantage of the cover of huge boulders of 
 rock that were scattered about in every direction. 
 But the Illori Bey, who was much amused by our 
 proceedings, informed us that we were approaching 
 his "konak," and that the shot we heard was 
 merely a signal from one of the outlying scouts of 
 his tribe, who, being at feud with their neighbours, 
 were obliged to keep a strict watch on the defile 
 leading to their hamlet. One of his followers 
 answered the signal by discharging his pistol, and 
 in a few moments a number of young men came 
 galloping up on rough mountain-ponies, who gave 
 us a cordial welcome, and saluted us by touching
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 375 
 
 our feet with the tips of their fingers, and then 
 raising thera to their foreheads. 
 
 On the slope of a hill, surrounded by a small 
 patch of Indian corn, stood the hamlet, which con- 
 sisted of about half a dozen log-huts, each contain- 
 ing a single apartment ; and one of the largest, by 
 the orders of the Bey, was cleared out of its occu- 
 pants, consisting of an indiscriminate medley of 
 men, women, children, ponies, sheep, goats, cows, 
 buffaloes, geese, fowls, &c., and given up for the 
 accommodation of my people and horses, being suffi- 
 ciently roomy to contain all comfortably. 
 
 I was conducted to the " dewan-khana," or guest- 
 house, and introduced to the elders of the tribe as 
 the " Ingleese Bey," where, after pipes and sherbet 
 had been handed round by boys, I had to undergo 
 a long series of cross-questioning as to the recent 
 events of the war. 
 
 At last ray revolvers, which I aways wore loaded 
 in my belt, in case of accident, attracted their atten- 
 tion, and they all jumped up thunderstruck when I 
 explained their action ; but I was not believed until 
 I had exhibited their powers by lodging ten bullets 
 in a small circle of a walnut-tree about twenty paces 
 distant from the door of the hut. In order more 
 strongly to impress upon their minds the nature of 
 our armament so as to guard against any attempt 
 at treachery, I directed one of the boys to hang a 
 dry gourd, which served as a water- vessel, on a 
 stalk of Indian corn about a hundred yards distant,
 
 o7G THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 and sent a couple of bullet shots through it with 
 my double rifle ; and, wliilst they were examining 
 the weapon, I slipped, the extra loaded chambers in 
 my revolvers and again fired them off, much to 
 their consternation and wonder : indeed, they looked 
 upon me as very closely allied to the " the name- 
 less one," for I heard them congratulating them- 
 selves in an undertone that none of their enemies 
 had demon-inspired pistols that were of fatal aim 
 and never required loading. 
 
 When we again adjourned to the hut I found 
 that breakfast had been served, consisting of several 
 dishes, but I was most woefully disappointed in the 
 cookery, which was wretched in the extreme, I may 
 say execrable ; for, although hungry, I could hardly 
 manage to swallow half a dozen mouthfuls • the 
 bill of fare consisting of rank goat's-flesh boiled 
 up with millet-seed, black broth, sundry prepara- 
 tions of sour milk, smoked kouskous, and pillaf 
 made of rancid butter, roasted Indian corn, and 
 black-looking maize cakes. At last the repast was 
 over, and, making some excuse about looking after 
 the horses, I bolted to my people, whom I found 
 comfortably established and supplied with all they 
 required. 
 
 One of them had managed to get hold of a goose, 
 and, as I felt nearly ravenous, I devoted him to 
 " sudden death," converted him into a savoury mess 
 in less than ten minutes, by an old campaigning 
 receipt which, for the benefit of future foragers, I
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 377 
 
 give a la Mrs Harris's : — " First catch your goose, 
 cut off the head, pull off the feathers with the skin, 
 cut the meat from off the bones in small square 
 pieces, and chuck them into a frying pan, with 
 butter, pepper, and salt, if you have any, letting 
 them stew until they assume a rich bro^vni colour, 
 when you may begin to eat." Bread or biscuit 
 fried up with the fat is a considerable adjunct. 
 
 !My hunger satiated, the gang, according to their 
 usual custom, made a huge fire of dry logs on a 
 piece of open ground a short distance in front of the 
 hut ; and, spreading my carpet to windward, I pre- 
 pared to enjoy the " fragrant weed," and cogitate 
 upon the programme for the morrow, whilst our 
 tents d'abii (of which each of us carried a part in 
 front of his saddle) were being pitched : it being 
 considered preferable to sleep under canvas to re- 
 maining in the hut, on account of vermin ; fleas hav- 
 ing been found so large and numerous that Kuchuk 
 declared that he was afraid of molesting or annoying 
 any of the race, for, if they made a combined attack, 
 and all pulled one way, he felt sure they would be 
 able to drag him bodily out of the hut. 
 
 There is no time more pleasant in the life of an 
 old forest-ranger than the setting in of the night 
 after a good day's sport, when the hunters recline 
 round the log-fire, shaded from the evening dew by 
 the canopy of some gigantic forest tree, and talk 
 over the events of the day or the hopes of the mor- 
 row. Then the soothing cheroot and comfortincc
 
 378 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 can of grog are indeed luxuries, and old familiar 
 airs and stirring tales go round cheerily, carrying 
 the heart back to happy bygone scenes of home, and 
 dear old friends, far away in " Merrie England." 
 None of my sporting chums caring to accompany 
 me in this trip to regions marked in the best maps 
 as "unknown tracts," I was without companion, 
 and time hung heavily on my hands when not en 
 route, or on the look-out for game, so I was very 
 glad when the Bey EfFendi came to consult me as 
 to the most suitable arrangement for the morrow's 
 battue. He was accompanied by a very intelligent 
 young fellow of his tribe, who, whilst watching the 
 cattle out at pasture, had discovered the lair of an 
 immense bear, whose depredations had been severely 
 felt during the winter months, when, emboldened 
 by hunger, he had carried off horses picketed close 
 to the "konac." 
 
 I decided to beat him out, if possible, and, after 
 a long smoking-match, and some talk with the Bey 
 as to the best plan of proceeding, he went to warn 
 his people to be in readiness to start at the first 
 appearance of dawn on the morrow, and I crept into 
 my tent, rolled myself up in my blankets, and, being 
 tired, was soon in a sound sleep, from which I was 
 awakened by some one, as I thought, unceremoni- 
 ously shaking me by the shoulder ; but the visitor 
 proved to be a half-famished prowling jackal, who 
 was trying to drag away the buffalo-robe which 
 served as an outer covering. I scared him away
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 379 
 
 by shouting, and he vented his indignation by setting 
 up a melancholy howl, which started a most infernal 
 chorus from half a dozen packs in the neighbouring 
 woods; but being well accustomed to such "jungle 
 melody," I turned over, and once more composed 
 myself to sleep. 
 
 When I awoke the next morning, I found my 
 followers busily employed in rubbing down the 
 horses, and the whole of the male portion of the 
 tribe, with the exception of a few left to guard the 
 village, preparing for the field. I gave myself a 
 shake like a spaniel, and washed out my mouth, (the 
 ordinary toilet of a hunter of the deep jungle, who 
 generally performs his ablutions in the first stream 
 he comes to,) and after hastily swallowing a cup of 
 cofi'ee and a biscuit, I mounted my horse, and hastened 
 the departure of the party, which consisted of about 
 forty individuals, most of them mounted on rough 
 mountain-ponies, and armed with matchlocks, pis- 
 tols, attaghans, &c. 
 
 The track lay through a gorge in the mountains, 
 and, when day broke, presented a magnificent scene, 
 as the sun dispelled the fog and mists which seemed 
 to cling to the gigantic masses of rock piled on each 
 other in endless variety of shape and extraordinary 
 confusion ; but I felt too much absorbed in sur- 
 mising upon the diflferent kinds of large game that 
 were likely to be met with in such a vast extent of 
 virgin forest, to pay very much attention to the pic- 
 turesque beauties that lay in my path.
 
 3S0 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 After about three hours' riding we came to a 
 large log cattle-shed, used only in the summer 
 months, -when the best pasturage is to be found on 
 the lower spurs of the mountains ; and here we had 
 to leave the horses under the charge of a guard, as 
 the track became impracticable for them. 
 
 The Illori chief described this bear to be a terrible 
 animal, standing as high as a pony ; but, as I had a 
 double-gun and rifle, and a brace of revolvers, I con- 
 sidered myself more than a match for him. 
 
 The herdsman now led the way, and under his 
 guidance we climbed, in Indian file, a steep rocky 
 hill, which caused us to puff and blow, and made 
 our knees tremble before we got to the top ; where, 
 by dint of scrambling on our hands and knees, creep- 
 ing along the edges of break-neck presipices, and 
 hanging on to perilous ledges, we managed to work 
 our way along the crest until we came to a deep 
 rocky ravine on the other side, which appeared to 
 have been denuded of the dense bush that generally 
 covered the face of the country, by the violence of 
 numerous mountain-torrents, which, when swollen 
 by the rains, or the melting of the snow, dashed 
 down the steep descent with immense force, and 
 swept away all the underwood in their course. 
 Here our guide assured us the lair was, and, in- 
 deed, it looked a likely place to meet with queer 
 customers, for in all my peregrinations I never saw 
 wilder country. 
 
 After an hour's careful investigation, during
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 381 
 
 which I came across several trails of red and roe 
 deer, hoijs, wolves, jackals, and foxes, as I was 
 crossing a patch of sand in the dry bed of a stream 
 I perceived the fresh footprints of a bear, which I 
 instantly saw must be a very large one from his 
 long stride and the size of his pngs, niy hand hardly 
 covering them. 
 
 I followed up the trail for some distance, but lost 
 it on some rocky ground, and was making casts in 
 different directions in order to regain it, when some 
 of the Bey's dogs, which had gone on some short 
 distance ahead, gave tongue, and immediately after I 
 heard a sullen roar, followed by four or five drop- 
 ping shots. I sprung upon a boulder of rock and 
 discovered an enormous, dirty, white-looking bear 
 in full pursuit of four or five Abassians, who were 
 running shrieking up the hill-side about two hun- 
 dred yards distant. One of them, in his frantic 
 flight, tripped over a stone, and before he could 
 rise the brute was upon him. Although the hinder- 
 quarters of the animal only were presented to me, 
 I threw up my rifle and let drive ; whether it was 
 that my hand was unsteady that morning, or that I 
 feared hitting the man, I know not, but the first 
 bullet fell short ; the second, however, struck fair, 
 and the bear, with a sharp hoarse cry of pain, 
 quitted the fallen man, and again made after the 
 rest. I reloaded as quickly as possible and ran up 
 towards the wounded man, when I again saw Bruin 
 for a moment, and got a couple of snap-shots at
 
 382 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 him as he bolted into some cover, having been 
 turned by a straggling volley from some of my 
 gang and the Bey's people. I found the youth who 
 had fallen into the bear's clutches severely bitten in 
 the shoulder, besides having his side clawed, and 
 being considerably bruised and shaken, though not 
 dangerously hurt ; so, after bandaging his wounds 
 as well as I could, I collected the people together, 
 and prepared to make another effort to dislodge 
 Bruin from his shelter. 
 
 One of my people had seen him enter some thick 
 underwood between two large rocks, and I tried to 
 coax the dogs to go in and drive him out ; but it 
 was of no use, they only ran yelping round the 
 thicket. Two of their number had been killed in 
 the first onset, and some of the others severely 
 mauled, which damped the courage of the rest ; so, 
 finding that nothing could be effected with their 
 assistance, I posted all the people in groups as 
 safely as I could at one end of the cover, in case 
 the game might break without showing fight, and 
 followed up the trail, which was very plainly marked 
 with blood, alone. 
 
 The brushwood was very thick, and much im- 
 peded my movements, so I got on but slowly ; but, 
 by dint of creeping on my hands and knees and 
 scrambling, I managed to get some distance into 
 the cover, when I heard a savage growl, followed 
 up by a low grunting noise, evidently not far from 
 me.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 383 
 
 I peered through the bush, but could see nothing ; 
 so, resting my rifle against the trunk of a tree, I 
 endeavoured to swarm up in order to have a better 
 look round. I had hardly raised myself a couple of 
 feet from the ground when, with a terrific roar, the 
 brute, which must have got wind of me, charged. 
 Luckily, the bush was so thick in front that he 
 coidd not get at me very easily, but had to make a 
 turn which gave me time to seize and cock my rifle; 
 and as his monstrous head, with flashing eyes and 
 open jaws, appeared about a couple of paces from me, 
 I gave him the contents of both barrels, which 
 almost stunned him, for he spun round and round, 
 and I had time to follow it up with my smooth-bore, 
 both bullets taking effect in the head ; but such was 
 the enormous tenacity of life that he managed to 
 tear out of the cover, rolling over and over as he 
 went. 
 
 After reloading carefully, I followed up and found 
 him sprawling about on the gromid, moaning pite- 
 ously. As I got out of the bush he caught sight 
 of me, and made another headlong charge, reeling 
 from side to side as he came ; but I stopped him 
 with another bullet in the head, which made him 
 bite the dust. He rose again, and got up on his 
 hind legs as if to look round, and whilst in this 
 position he looked a fearful object, standing, as he 
 did, with his fore-paws raised about seven feet high 
 and the blood pouring in torrents out of his mouth. 
 I now had a fair shot at his chest, and inflicted a
 
 384 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 mortal wound, for lie rolled over and over, making 
 his teeth meet in the root of a tree with his last 
 dying effort. 
 
 He proved to be the largest bear I ever met 
 with, standing over four feet high at the shoulder, 
 and, from the number of men it took to lift him, I 
 should think he could not have weighed less than 
 eight hundred pounds. He appeared to be of the 
 same species as the hill-bear of Circassia and the 
 Himalayas, being covered with long whitey-brown 
 hair. He had received eleven wounds, six of which 
 were in the head ; but I found that the round 
 leaden balls from my smooth-bore had flattened on 
 the skull without penetrating, whilst the conical pro- 
 jectile from my rifle splintered the bone. By the 
 time the skin was taken off, the carcass cut up, and 
 the flesh divided among the people, the sun had 
 sunk low in the west, and we had to beat a hasty 
 retreat in order to reach our bivouac (the cattle- 
 shed) before nightfall. Here we found a supply of 
 sheep, fowls, and forage had been brought in during 
 our absence ; so, after we had pitched our tents and 
 made the "inner man" comfortable, our battle 
 with the bear was fought over again as we reclined 
 round an immense fire, until some of us began to 
 nod, when we rolled ourselves up in our blankets 
 and turned in for the night, well satisfied with our 
 day's sport. 
 
 I was awakened some time before dawn by 
 Kuchuk, who informed me that my baggage-pony
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 385 
 
 and three horses belonging to the Bey's people were 
 missing, and it was suspected that a predatory party 
 of Kabardines, known to be lurking in the neighbour- 
 hood, were the culprits, and had paid us a visit in 
 the night. 
 
 The loss of a good baggage-animal is, at any time, 
 a serious inconvenience when travelling ; but in a 
 wild and desolate country, like that of the eastern 
 coast of the Black Sea, it is almost an irremediable 
 misfortune, so I jumped up immediately to consult 
 with the Bey as to the best measures to take for the 
 recovery of the stolen property. I found him still 
 encased in sheepskins, but puffing furiously at his 
 chibouk, and giving vent to his indignation in a long 
 string of curses, loud and deep, against the marauders, 
 whom he designated as " vile dogs of Kaffirs (un- 
 believers) of unchaste parentage," &c. 
 
 When I coidd get in a word, I advised him to 
 send some of his people to follow up the trail as 
 soon as it became light enough to see the marks left 
 by the horses' feet ; but he, with true Mussulman 
 apathy, declared that a pursuit would be useless, as 
 the plunderers had got too long a start. 
 
 Of this I did not feel at all sure, knowing the 
 extreme difficulty of getting over the ground in the 
 dark, in a wooded country ; so I determined to give 
 chase with my own people, accompanied by the 
 herdsman who had shown us the bear's lair the day 
 before, and a couple of young men of the tribe, wiio 
 professed not only to know the country well, but 
 
 2 B
 
 386 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 also imagined they could hit upon the haunts of the 
 cattle-lifters. 
 
 Having buried our superfluous baggage, we set off 
 in light marching order as soon as the day broke ; 
 and falling upon the trail almost immediately, fol- 
 lowed it up in Indian file, as fast as the rocky nature 
 of the ground permitted. It appeared that the cul- 
 prits were six in number, as there were marks of 
 two having remained in charge of six horses some 
 short distance off, whilst four others prowled about 
 our bivouac in search of plunder. 
 
 After a fatiguing ride of several hours' duration, 
 over hill and dale, through woods and across rivers, 
 we came to a marshy swamp which bore the appear- 
 ance of having recently been disturbed by horses' 
 hoofs ; so on we pushed with renewed vigour, and 
 I refrained from letting drive at seven gigantic 
 cranes, who, regardless of our presence, continued to 
 wade less than two hundred yards distant, which was 
 a sore temptation, as they appeared of a rare kind, 
 and I would have got them all in line with a little 
 judicious stalking. 
 
 There could be no doubt of our being on the track 
 of the right party, as in several places I perceived 
 the trail of my baggage-pony, which was shod with 
 the broad Turkish shoe on the fore-feet,, whereas 
 none of the other animals had any. Towards noon, 
 after clambering up the steep rocky side of a low 
 ridge of hills, I perceived, in the ravine below, a 
 light column of smoke curling up from some broken
 
 OF THK OLD WORLD. S87 
 
 ground, and, after a careful investitjation with my 
 field-glass, I saw several horses with their fore-feet 
 hobbled, grazing by the banks of a small stream, 
 which, I had no doubt, belonged to the marauders. 
 
 After a brief consultation with my followers, I 
 directed Kuchuk and three others to accompany me 
 in a reconnaissance, whilst the rest of the party took 
 charge of the horses and kept a look-out on the road. 
 As my men were well-armed, and I could fully 
 depend upon their pluck, I did not much fear the 
 result of a contest, but was rather afraid lest the 
 pillagers, knowing the country, might slip through 
 our hand with their booty, so I struck off from the 
 track, and made a circuitous route by crossing the 
 ravine some distance below the place where I saw the 
 smoke, and again gaining it on the opposite height, 
 from whence, with the aid of my glass, I could see 
 the objects of our search reclining round a fire, ap- 
 parently very jolly on the strength of their success. 
 
 After having made as careful a survey as the 
 wooded nature of the ground would allow, we ad- 
 vanced towards them as noiselessly as possible, 
 keeping well under cover, until we came to the edge 
 of the open where the horses were grazing, from 
 whence we got a full view of the party, which 
 appeared to be five in number ; one of whom was 
 washing his mouth in the stream, a second super- 
 intending the cooking, and the others smoking and 
 lolling about on the ground, evidently quite unsus- 
 picious of danger.
 
 388 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 Knowing the effect of a surprise, I determined, 
 if possible, to accomplish our purpose without blood- 
 shed, and observing their rude firearms resting 
 against a boulder of rock, I resolved to get as near 
 as possible by stalking, and then make a simul- 
 taneous dash. 
 
 By dint of creeping on our hands and knees, and 
 taking advantage of the cover of bushes, rocks, and 
 undulations in the ground, we got to within a dozen 
 yards of the three fellows lying down, on whom we 
 made a rush, and, after a momentary struggle, over- 
 powered by laying about us with the butt-end of our 
 rifles. The two others bolted into the jungle on the 
 first alarm, where further pursuit was useless, and a 
 sixth, who was acting as scout a short distance in 
 the rear, fell into the hands of our other party 
 
 Having disarmed and pinioned our prisoners, one 
 of whom had his arm broken in the scufiQe, and 
 secured the horses, (ten in number, including our 
 own re 'aptnred,) we rejoined the rest of the party, 
 and after a hasty meal set out on our return. 
 
 Our captives, who were a sullen, "ill-favoured, 
 hang-dog looking " set of fellows, proved to belong 
 to a mountain tribe from the other side of Pitzounda, 
 who were returning from an unsuccessful foray in 
 Mingrelia, when they caught sight of our cattle and 
 attempted a razee. 
 
 We arrived in camp late in the afternoon, and 
 great was the old Bey's joy at the recovery of his 
 animals, which be had made up his mind he would
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 389 
 
 never see again. The prisoners were all recognised 
 as being old offenders ; and, according to the law 
 of the tribes, as the mildest punishment, would have 
 been sold as slaves in the interior ; but this I would 
 not allow, as I intended, by making an example, to 
 deter another attempt being made on my cattle : so 
 the gang, after branding each of them indelibly with 
 a heated horse-shoe, on the right shoulder, turned 
 them adrift, minus their arms, horses, and kalpacs, 
 (high caps of black sheepskin,) warnmg them that 
 they might expect no mercy if found again anywhere 
 near our camp. 
 
 The Bey had heard of another bear, and had sent 
 out some of his people to make sure of his where- 
 abouts ; but, a'^ the haunt was said to be nearer the 
 " konak " than where we were, it was determined to 
 return there on the morrow. I selected one of the 
 captured horses for my own use, presented another 
 to the Bey, a third to the herdsman who showed me 
 the bear's haunt, and then gave the others, with the 
 captured arms, as prizes to the best marksmen in 
 the tribe.
 
 CHAPTER XXIIL 
 
 CIRC Assi A — CO 71 tin ued. 
 
 On the sale of Circassian females, and extenuating circumstances. 
 — Their character. — An exploring trip premeditated. — The 
 start. — A Russian fort. — Bustard-shooting. — Forest scenery. 
 — Difficulties en route. — Trout-fishing. — Mosquitoes. — A 
 lovely valley. — Wild-cattle hunt. — An awkward predicament. 
 — A bull and cow slain. — Mode of preserving the flesh.— More 
 game afoot. — The ascent of the first range. — Mountain scen- 
 ery. — Mount El-Bruz in the distance. — Difficult travelling. — 
 A bear started. — A long shot. — Strange feelings. — A frightful 
 chasm, and exciting moment. — Journey along the ridge. — 
 The descent. — Wolves. — A Circassian hamlet. — Hospitality. 
 — A noble race. — A Durbar, and the result of our consulta- 
 tion. 
 
 A.MONGST the various localities to which erratic fate 
 has directed my steps, there are few that have so 
 many agreeable souvenirs associated in my recollec- 
 tion as Circassia ; and I wonder that more travellers 
 and sportsmen do not turn their wanderings towards 
 a country which, although pre-eminent throughout 
 the world for magnificence of scenery, is yet a terra 
 incognita. In these days of steam and rail, it were 
 an easy matter for the lover of the picturesque, or
 
 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS, ETC. ^91 
 
 the sportsman — instead of forming one of that horde 
 of sight-seers annually discharged on the Continent 
 — to take his lounge one afternoon in Rotten Row, 
 and that day fortnight to find himself sipping coffee 
 in the midst of a circle of mountaineers, in one of 
 the romantic gorges of the Caucasus ; where a man's 
 worth is nut estimated by the length of his pocket, 
 but according to the gifts bestowed upon him by 
 Nature, and the manner in which he makes use of 
 them. Yes, my gentle reader, notwithstanding the 
 tales you may have heard of the barbarity of the 
 Circassians, in selling their daughters to tlie pander.s 
 of Osmanli harems, and the maidens' passive apathetic 
 resignation to such a fate, I maintain that it is the 
 force of circumstances alone that has brought thi& 
 revolting custom about. It must be remembered 
 that the gallant tribes of the mountains have been 
 engaged in a bloody war, against fearful odds, for 
 the last eighty years : consequently there has been 
 a continual drain upon the male population — the 
 number of men falling annuady in battle against the 
 invaders far exceeding the number of male children 
 born. Such having been the case for nearly a cen- 
 tury, naturally enough there is a great disproportion 
 between the sexes, and, notwithstanding that poly- 
 gamy exists, it is a matter of difficulty for all the 
 "gentler sex" to obtain protectoi's ; and, as "anti- 
 quated sjyinstos " are of a genus unknown in the 
 Caucasus, it is not to be woniered at that the 
 inhabitants are willing to dispose of their extra
 
 392 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 produce, not required for home consumption, to the 
 Turks ; who make good husbands, are of the same 
 faith, and much akin in habits and manners. The 
 custom of admitting foreigners and prisoners of war 
 into the tribes, was doubtlessly adopted in order to 
 make up for the loss of men killed in battle, and 
 not from any great partiality towards strangers. 
 During my sojourn in the country — to which time 
 my mind often reverts as being the happiest of my 
 life — I found that, among these unsophisticated 
 people, the possession of large hoards of the " yellow 
 metal " does not constitute the value of the man ; 
 and the most beautiful maidens of the world esti- 
 mate their lovers' worth by the qualities they dis- 
 play — not their possessions. There, a bold spirit, a 
 cool head in the time of danger, a good shot, a skil- 
 ful horseman, and a strong arm that can defend 
 his own, is looked upon as a rich man and a suit- 
 able " partie ; " if, withal, he possesses a kind heart, 
 nothing more is required to make a home happy 
 in Circassia. But, Heigh Allah ! I must check 
 myself upon such subjects, and put the curb upon 
 my pen, or it will run upon other reminiscences of 
 the past than those connected with " The Hunting 
 Grounds." 
 
 I had passed many happy days in the konak of 
 the Bey and amongst other friendly tribes, when 
 one afternoon, as I was returning from a successful 
 deer-stalking expedition, I fell in with a young 
 mountaineer who was en route to his home, close to
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 393 
 
 Mount El-Bruz. After some conversation, I made 
 up my mind to take a trip to that part of the 
 country, under his guidance, and, if possible, to 
 make an ascent of the " Father of Mountains." 
 The same evening I communicated my intention to 
 my followers, who made their preparations accord- 
 ingly; and the next morning, after quite a tender 
 leave-taking from our worthy host and his people, 
 to whom we promised to return, a start was effected. 
 For the first four or five miles after leaving the 
 konak, we had the advantage of a bridle-path, which 
 had been formed many years ago by the Russians, 
 for the purpose of keeinng up a communication 
 with one of their outposts, a small fort, or rather 
 redoubt, constructed on an isolated hill which com- 
 manded the entrance of a deeply-wooded gorge. 
 The work, in which embrasures and platforms for 
 eight pieces of cannon were still visible, had evi- 
 dently been intended to prevent the aggressive 
 incursions of the mountain tribes, but it did not 
 appear to have been inhabited for some years, as 
 the barrack was roofless and the flagstaff had rotted 
 away. Our guide told me that this had been the 
 scene of many a hard conflict between the Musco- 
 vite troops and the mountaineers, and his statement 
 was confirmed by the numerous graves, some of 
 which were marked by tombstones bearing Greek 
 or Russian inscriptions, and others by rude wooden 
 crosses. 
 
 On the slope and round the base of the hill were
 
 394- THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 clearings in the low scrub-jungle, whicli at one time 
 liad evidently been fenced in and cultivated, having 
 perhaps served the garrison as pasture-lands and 
 corn-fields. As I was taking a sketch of the little 
 stronghold from one of these places, the " Hadjee '"' 
 informed me that he had seen several very large 
 birds go down in a patch of low jungle close at 
 hand. From his description, I imagined that they 
 were cranes, having seen several of a very large 
 species wading in a swamp en route, and being 
 desirous of obtaining a specimen, I loaded my gun 
 with a couple of Eley's green long-range cartridges, 
 and accompanied him to the spot where he had 
 marked the birds alight. I had beaten about the 
 place for some time without seeing anything, and 
 was about to give up the pursuit, when, as I was 
 turning round a low copse, a covey of bustard {Otis 
 tarda) suddenly got up from a small undulating 
 plain close to a watercourse, and I had the good 
 fortune to bring down a couple of them, right and 
 left, before they could get fairly upon the wing. 
 One, a hen, fell dead, the shot having taken effect 
 in the back part of the head and neck, but the 
 second, a fine old cock, was only winged, and ran 
 at an immense pace. Luckily " El Moro," my 
 pointer, attracted by the report of my gun, came 
 up and assisted me, otherwise I should have had no 
 chance of catchiug him, notwithstanding I was in 
 fair running condition. He proved to be a splendid 
 specimen, the wings measuring more than four feet
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 395 
 
 and a lialf from tip to tip. His weight I imagined 
 to have been but little short of forty pounds, as he 
 was in excellent condition, and by far the largest 
 bird of the species I have hitherto seen, although I 
 have killed many on the plains in India. 
 
 Having dined, we started again en route, and, on 
 leaving the fort, made our way along tracks with 
 which both Cassim and our guide appeared familiar, 
 but which it would have been hazardous for a 
 stranger to have attempted to follow without the 
 aid of an experienced guide, as the country is so 
 intersected by innumerable watercourses, meander- 
 ing through dense labyrinths of wood, each of which 
 so closely resembles the other, that a traveller once 
 bewildered could hardly ever extricate himself, 
 landmarks of any kind being few and far between. 
 Now and then even our guide appeared puzzled, 
 and had to climb some huge boulder of rock, or 
 lofty tree, in order to make sure of the route, by 
 observing the appearance of the mountains which 
 formed the horizon of this sea of woods. On such 
 occasions as these, had I not been an old forest- 
 ranger accustomed to pilot my way by compass 
 through trackless woods, I might perhaps have 
 shared in the feelings of some of my followers, who, 
 from time to time, showed symptoms of uneasiness 
 as we wandered through apparently boundless depths 
 of forest. The route was wild in the extreme, often 
 leading across long extents of marshes, unhealthy 
 swamps, and iimumerable small rivers and streams,
 
 396 THE HUNTING GROTJNDS 
 
 which our horses were generally able to ford, but 
 sometimes had to swim. Now and then we had 
 a good deal of trouble to cross, on account of the 
 force of the current ; and on one occasion we nearly- 
 lost one of our number, who got into a quicksand, 
 and was only saved by our throwing him branches, 
 with which he supporteu himself until we managed 
 to draw him out with a rope. 
 
 We rode for ten or twelve miles along the base 
 of thickly-wooded hills, until we came to a good- 
 sized stream, running between high steep banks, 
 fringed in places with willow and large trees, some- 
 what resembling the sycamore, which our guide 
 informed us was a branch of the River Kodor, the 
 same we had forded near the embouchure when 
 accompanying the Turkish army from Suchum 
 Kaleh. Here we determined to bivouac, and whilst 
 my people were engaged in culinary operations, I 
 strolled up the river with Ahmed and Kuchuk, on 
 the look-out for a chance shot at deer, as I had 
 seen a few slots during our march. Suddenly turn- 
 ing round a bend in the liver, I observed some 
 smoke a short distance ahead, which, after a care- 
 ful reconnaissance, we approached, and found a 
 party of Abassians catching fish in ingenious traps 
 made of willows, which are laid in the most likely 
 places in the stream. They had upwards of two 
 dozen very fine fish, chiefly trout, which seemed 
 exactly to resemble the English species, being formed 
 and speckled without any distinguishable difference.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 397 
 
 I got two glorious fellows, weif>liing about five 
 pounds each, in exchange for a silver quarter-franc 
 piece, which made a welcome addition to our supper. 
 Our camp this night appeared to be the head- 
 quarters of the mosquito tribes , for they settled 
 upon us in myriads, keeping up a perpetual hum, 
 and not allowing a moment's rest. It was posi- 
 tively amusing at times to hear the exclamations 
 and growling of some of the people who were 
 driven almost wild with continued torture. Strange 
 to say, they scarcely molested me, although the 
 faces of some of the others were much swollen by 
 the multiplicity of their stings. With those sleep 
 was out of the question, so they made a huge fire, 
 round which they got some relief. 
 
 Sunrise saw us again en route, and after a most 
 delightful ride of about ten miles up the river, 
 through glorious woods of gigantic oak, beech, and 
 walnut, or glades of rich nutritious grasses, we 
 entered a most picturesque valley, which for beauty 
 of scenery and rich fertility far exceeded anything 
 that I had hitherto seen. On each side rose densely- 
 wooded hills, here and there broken into gorgeously- 
 coloured cliffs and dark winding ravines, whilst 
 every turn displayed lovely vistas, stately avenues, 
 groves of blossoming shrubs, clumps of gigantic 
 forest-trees covered with festoons of the wild vine, 
 and green slopes clothed with delicious verdure, 
 forming a park-like scene far surpassing any of our 
 finest demesnes in Old Endand.
 
 o98 THE HUNTING GROUND 
 
 As I looked aroupd, I noticed many objects that 
 brought " home scenes " vividly to mind, for, 
 amongst the vegetation indigenous to southern 
 climes, I noticed the wild plum, cherry, white- 
 thorn, daisy, clover, larkspur, primrose, violet, and 
 forget-me-not; besides which the full round notes 
 of the blackbird and the warbling of the missel- 
 thrush were heard high above the melody of the 
 other sylvan choristers. An exclamation of sur- 
 prise from Ahmed recalled me from this very agree- 
 able reverie, directing my attention into a widely 
 different channel, for, on passing close to a small 
 piece of dense cover, I distinctly heard the snapping 
 of sticks, followed by the tread of some heavy 
 animal over dry vegetation, and almost immediately 
 a mighty wild bull and three cows tore across the 
 plain. To loosen my rifle and spring from my 
 saddle was the work of a moment, and, taking a 
 steady aim, I planted one bullet in his hind-quarter, 
 the only part visible, as he was bolting away, and 
 the second in his broad massive shoulder as he 
 swerved round on receiving the first wound. This 
 last made him bite the dust ; but he soon regained 
 his legs, and with a loud bellow and roar of rage 
 made direct for the opposite height. I immediately 
 gave chase, and, after a sharp burst, got up along- 
 side my quarry, from whose side a stream of blood 
 was spurting as he ran. Drawing my revolver from 
 my holster, I aimed behind the ear ; but my horse 
 being fidgety and not accustomed to such kind of
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 399 
 
 work, shied round at the moment, and the shot did 
 not take effect. In the twinkling of an eye, before 
 I could recock the pistol or get my horse out of 
 his way, the bull charged, rolling us both over from 
 the violence of the shock, and falling himself on his 
 knees with the exertion. Luckily, although my 
 horse was slightly gored in the shoulder, I was not 
 in the least hurt with the purl ; and before my 
 antagonist could repeat his little game I sprang to 
 my feet, and plunging my long hunting-knife into 
 his chest, he staggered forward a few paces, and 
 dropped on his side dead. In the meantime my 
 followers gave chase to the rest of the herd, and a 
 young cow, in first-rate condition for the table, fell 
 after a desperate charge, in which she unhorsed one 
 or two of their number, althougb without doing any 
 serious damage. These cattle, which much resemble 
 in appearance the largest of our Scotch oxen, gene- 
 rally go in herds of eight or ten, and the people of 
 the country say that they are the most formidable 
 animals in the forest, neither the bear nor the wolf 
 ever daring to meddle with them. The bull I killed 
 (which was the only one seen during my sojourn in 
 that part — although we several times came across 
 their trails) was a most savage-looking brute, having 
 an immensely broad chest, deep shoulders, muscular 
 fore-arms, short thick curved horns, and large dew- 
 lap. The general colour was black, with dirty white 
 under the belly and inside the thighs and legs, and 
 the height at the shoulder nearly sixteen hands.
 
 400 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 Having now much more flesh than we could con- 
 sume before it became tainted, I thought it advis- 
 able to halt where we were and "jerk" some of the 
 meat, which we did, by cutting it in strips and 
 hanging it for several hours over a large wood-fire. 
 We grilled some steaks on the embers almost before 
 they became cold, and to my surprise they were re- 
 markably tender. We salted the tongues as well as 
 we could, keeping them for the ascent — and the 
 marrow Hoossain made into pasties that would have 
 excited the admiration of poor old Soyer himself. 
 During the night our fire attracted some deer ; but 
 Ali, who first perceived them, and fired a couple 
 of shots, did not manage to bag any, although 
 they did not go away unscathed, as when day 
 broke blood was found upon their trail, which we 
 did not follow up, as it led in a contrary direction 
 to our route. 
 
 For some hours our course lay parallel and almost 
 on the same level as the bed of the stream ; but it 
 now began to ascend gradually, and at last we found 
 ourselves scrambling up the face of a steep scarped 
 cliff, from a chasm in the base of which the torrent 
 burst, as it were, from the womb of the mountain. 
 Our guide evidently knew the country well, for the 
 route was admirably chosen, and he led us up the 
 steepest ascents with an easy inclination that wofld 
 have done credit to the most able engineer. The 
 surface of the rock, without being so very smooth 
 as to render our horses' footing insecure, presented
 
 OF THE OLD WOELD. 401 
 
 no very serious obstacle, so that we got on famously, 
 and by noon reached a natural clearing in the woods, 
 carpeted with rich indigenous grasses and flowers of 
 the most delicate tints, and intersected with numer- 
 (jus small streams of crystal clearness, that flowed 
 in little murmuring cascades down the side of the 
 mountain. 
 
 We continued to ascend until dusk, when we en- 
 camped for the night under the lee of a huge mass 
 of black granite, which exposure to the weather had 
 made as smooth as if it had been artificially polished. 
 Kising with the sun the following morning, and in- 
 vigorated by the bracing air, we gained the table- 
 land on the summit, after a tramp of about four 
 hours' duration. 
 
 It was from this spot that we got the first imin- 
 terrupted view of the mighty El-Bruz, on whose 
 snow-clad summit the sky seemed to rest. It ap- 
 peared so distinctly defined that I did not imagine 
 it was more than fifteen miles off, and was much 
 surprised when our guide assured me that it was 
 nearly twelve saat, or about three times that dis- 
 tance. 
 
 Our route now became much more difficult for 
 the horses, as we had to make our way for several 
 miles in an easterly direction along the tortuous 
 ridge of this range, sometimes clambering up craggy 
 cliffs so steep that every moment I was afraid of my 
 horse losing his balance and falling backwards with 
 me, and at other times having to descend rocky 
 
 2c
 
 402 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 slopes and ledges with scarcely any inequalities in 
 their surface to afford foothold. Often the men had 
 infinite trouble with their animals before they could 
 get them to attempt some of the descents ; and fre- 
 quently one of them, slipping, would come sliding 
 against the rest, knocking others off their legs, 
 which it required great exertion and floundering 
 to regain. I took care to avoid such accidents by 
 keeping well ahead ; but sometimes even my horse, 
 which was remarkable for its sure-footedness, would 
 come on to his knees, and remain a fixture, fearing, 
 if he stirred, to roll down the whole way. We 
 avoided all the higher peaks, which were covered 
 with snow, and tried to preserve our level as much 
 as possible, although at times we traversed valleys 
 so walled-in that the rays of the sun could never 
 penetrate except at noonday. As we were descend- 
 ing a steep ravine of this kind, Abdulla pointed out 
 to me an enormous bear, scrambling, hand over 
 hand, up the stumps and bush on the other side ; 
 and, jumping ofl" my horse, I made use of a slab of 
 rock as a rest, and gave hira both barrels simul- 
 taneously. Although the distance was nearly five 
 hundred yards, my shots evidently took effect, for 
 he rolled over several times before he could regain 
 his legs, when he looked fiercely round and growled 
 most savagely. I hastily reloaded, but he had in 
 the meantime given leg-bail, so I directed two of 
 the gang to remain where we were to mark the 
 place, and direct me in case I should not be able to
 
 Of the old world. 403 
 
 make straight for it, and then gave chase. It was 
 no easy work to scramble up the rocky slope ; but 
 at last we got upon his trail, and soon found gouts 
 of blood which, although not sufficient to lead me to 
 suppose that he was mortally wounded, proved that 
 my shots, even at that long range, had taken effect. 
 As the trail diverged considerably from our route, 
 we gave up the pursuit ; and, after halting a short 
 time to cook a meal, by a beautiful stream gushing 
 out of the live rock, the water of which was so cold 
 that it gave me a violent toothache, again pushed 
 forward. 
 
 After a weary march and much slipping and 
 scrambling over most difficult ground, we ascended 
 from a ravine to an elevated ridge covered with 
 stunted grass, along which we travelled ten or 
 twelve miles, enjoying a magnificent prospect on 
 each hand of apparently boundless ranges of snow- 
 capped mountains and interminable forest. An in- 
 expressible feeling of silent contemplation and awe 
 seemed to pervade the entire company, as we rode 
 along for miles without exchanging an observation ; 
 indeed, the solemn silence of uninvaded nature gave 
 birth to strange emotions bordering on fear, which 
 seemed inexplicable, considering the scenes that each 
 and every one of my party had gone through. 
 
 From this we ascended a ridge of high rocks, in 
 some places covered with low scrub, where we en- 
 camped for the night, as we found some difficulty 
 in crossing a mountain-torrent that came tumbling
 
 404 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 over a bed of huge boulders of green and black 
 granite with a roar like thunder. 
 
 The next morning, having crossed this obstruc- 
 tion, we clambered over the last crest of the moun- 
 tain, a deep valley only lying between us and the 
 El-Bruz, and commenced our descent in single file 
 by a long spur, along the back or ridge of which we 
 pursued our course for some miles without any feel- 
 ing of insecurity, as the sides, though steep, were 
 densely wooded, and obscured the terrors of the 
 view. Suddenly, as we were skirting a scarped 
 cliflF, we came to a sharp angle where we had to pass 
 a narrow ledge or shelf jutting out of the live rock, 
 on which there was scarcely room for a goat to turn. 
 I was leading, my horse being the most sure-footed, 
 but here he stopped dead short with a strange snort 
 and shudder, that first made me feel the imminence 
 of my danger, throwing out his legs as if bent upon 
 going no further. A foaming river was roaring 
 some hundreds of feet below, so that we could 
 hardly hear ourselves speak ; and if I could I would 
 have dismounted to reconnoitre, but this was per- 
 fectly impossible. I could not turn, and must ad- 
 vance : but auri sacra fames, quid non mortalia 
 2)ectora cogis ? What looked impossible was soon 
 made practicable. Delay was dangerous, so I 
 loosened the reins, gently urged my horse forward, 
 and at the same time gave him the spur. With a 
 grunt of despair, and eyes distended, he craned his 
 neck forward, and, after a fearful efibrt, managed
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 405 
 
 to gain a place where the pass became broader, 
 when he broke out into a profuse perspiration from 
 terror. As soon as I was able to draw a full breath, 
 I ordered my followers to dismount and go over 
 first, leading their horses with a cord, in which 
 manner all managed to get over safely. It was an 
 anxious moment, and I do not think any induce- 
 ment would cause me to repeat the feat; for, 
 although a fearless horseman, and endued with a 
 sailor's eye, my heart often palpitates when I think 
 of that perilous scramble. 
 
 We continued to descend until nearly dusk, when 
 we halted for the night in the dense forest that 
 clothes the lower spurs of these mountains, lighting 
 huge fires to keep away the wolves, which kind of 
 " vermin " were to be met with in packs, and bears' 
 tracks were not at all uncommon. Frequently dur- 
 ing the night we were alarmed by their infernal 
 howling close at hand, but they did not dare to 
 approach our fire. The next morning we got into 
 the plain, and towards noon arrived at a Circassian 
 konac, where we were made extremely welcome, 
 more especially when our guide, who was well 
 known in the hamlet, told them that I was an 
 Englishman who had fought against the Eussians, 
 both in the Crimea and in Asia Minor, for at first 
 they had taken me for one of " the Faithful." A 
 comfortable log-hut was placed at my disposal, with 
 a shed for the horses, and Iloossain obtained a 
 bountiful supply of fowls, eggs, corn-flour, and half
 
 406 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 a sheep, which was soon converted into a savoury 
 raess. After we had refreshed the inner man, we 
 held a " durbar," at which all the elders, and indeed 
 most of the inhabitants of the hamlet attended; 
 and never, either in civilised or savage life, have I 
 seen a finer-looking race than the specimens then 
 before me. The men were all of noble stature, 
 stalwart, and muscular to a degree, with highly in- 
 telligent countenances and strikingly handsome 
 features, the lower part of which were generally 
 covered with long flowing beards. The women 
 were extremely beautiful, with finely-chiselled fea- 
 tures, lustrous eyes, and pearly teeth, which they 
 disclosed in gracious and fascinating smiles, that 
 lighted up their faces with the most bewitching 
 radiance. They wore no head-dress, generally speak- 
 ing, except their luxuriant tresses, which flowed in 
 unconfined freedom over their shoulders, although 
 during my stay among them 1 noticed some in 
 jaunty-looking scarlet caps. Their hands were 
 beautiful, and when they walked their flowing 
 drapery revealed the exquisite symmetry of their 
 legs and feet, which throughout the world are un- 
 rivalled. We all sat down in a semicircle in front 
 of the door of my hut, the women a little distance 
 behind the men, and, after Hoossain and Abdulla 
 had served the greater part of the assembly with 
 coffee, "chibouks" were lighted, when, with an air 
 of great ceremony, I commenced a speech in Turkish, 
 eked out with Hindostanee, which was translated
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD, 407 
 
 by Abdulla, for the benefit of that part of my 
 audience who could not understand the former 
 lan<i;uaG:e. 
 
 I explained my views, announcing my intention 
 of exploring the El-Bruz, (which I could see caused 
 supercilious smiles amongst some of the party,) and 
 finished off by presenting the chief with a pair of 
 brass-mounted pistols, a looking-glass, some scarlet 
 cloth, and a piece of gold-lace for his harem. 
 Although evidently much pleased with my little 
 attention — for he was profuse in his thanks and 
 offers of service — he shook his head and looked 
 grave when I aojain brou2;ht the El-Bruz on the 
 tapis, assuring me that the ascent was impossible, 
 not only on account of the depth of snow, but also 
 because it was inhabited by evil spirits, such as 
 " gins," " afrits," and " gholes," who would not allow 
 any mortal to penetrate into their sanctuaries. I 
 made light of his fears, repeating the Mussulman 
 creed — "Allah e Allah, Mahomed Roosool il hum 
 du lilla" and declared that I would make the at- 
 tempt even if I knew the place to be the haunt of 
 all the shytans of Jehannum.* This was a 
 " clincher," and after some discussion between 
 Ishmael, (our guide,) Cassim, and some of the 
 elders of the tribe, it was settled that two of their 
 number should accompany us, as they knew more 
 about the mountain than any one else, having been 
 obliged at one time to take refuge there when pur- 
 
 • Shytans of Jehannum — demons of the infernal regions.
 
 408 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 
 
 sued by a predatory hostile party. These gave me 
 to understand that there was a deserted konac some 
 distance up the mountain, up to which point our 
 horses could go, so I resolved to make the necessary 
 preparations that evening, and start for the place 
 early the next morning. What little superfluous 
 baggage I had I left in charge of the chief, and then 
 ordered Hoossain, Kuchuk, and Cassim to accompany 
 me with the two young men of the tribe, as I did 
 not care to have too many about me, and the rest 
 were to take charge of the horses at the foot of the 
 mountain. 
 
 This being arranged, and provisions, ropes, 
 i^lankets, and waterproof-sheeting being packed and 
 divided, so that each had about equal weight, I had 
 poles cut so as to serve as " alpenstocks ; " and early 
 the next morning we started, accompanied for a 
 short distance by the greater part of the tribe, who 
 wished us God-speed and luck on our undertaking. 
 After a ride of about six hours' duration through 
 the woods we began to ascend, and in the afternoon 
 arrived at the deserted konac, which was situated 
 on a projecting spur. Here we put up for the night, 
 making ourselves as comfortable as possible ; AH 
 and his party keeping watch whilst mine slept, so 
 as to be fresh for work on the morrow. All my 
 followers wanted to accompany me, but it could 
 not be, so after a plentiful breakfast we bade them 
 adieu, and set out on our perilous expedition.
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 ciRCASSiA — continued. — the ascent of mount 
 
 EL-BRUZ. 
 
 Forest scenery. — The first halt. — A glacier. — A beautiful pano- 
 rama. — Sunrise. — A lammergeier slain. — Glacier travelling. — 
 Eternal snow. — Avalanches. — The lower summit attained. — 
 Our exultation. — A description of the higher summit. — The 
 impossibility of reaching it. — Grand scenery. — Intense glare. 
 — The descent commenced, — A sudden death. — Kuchuk's last 
 resting-place.— Fatiguing fag.— The bivouac in the pine-forest. 
 — An ibex killed. — Return. — Finale. 
 
 The forest glowed with the most vivid autumn tints ; 
 the foliage of tlie different trees exhibiting every 
 shade, from the brightest ora,nge to the deepest red ; 
 and contrasted strangely with the peculiarly rich 
 colouring of masses of rocks here and there inter- 
 mingled, forming a picture, of Nature's painting, 
 which surpassed all the efforts of an artist to depict. 
 Ferns nearly six feet in height, and of a species I 
 had not previously seen, grew in the greatest pro- 
 fusion, whilst indigenous myrtle, box, laurel, rhodo- 
 dendron, and gigantic heath-bushes, grew in the 
 greatest profusion on every side. The ground was
 
 410 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 carpeted with the most exquisitely beautiful flowers, 
 amongst which I noticed bracken {Pteris acquilina) 
 of a deep orange colour, blue, purple, and white 
 monkshood, heath-bells, columbine, anemones, for- 
 get-me-nots, pansies, ranunculi, violets, and a deli- 
 cate-looking creeper with scarlet bloom which grew 
 amid the rocks, most of which were covered with 
 mosses of every hue and shade. After several hours' 
 severe toil, the appearance of the forest became 
 very much changed ; the oak, beech, sycamore, 
 poplar, walnut, chesnut, ash, birch, and other trees 
 of the plains, giving place to lofty pines, covered 
 with many-coloured lichen, larch, and gigantic 
 cedars, some of which, evidently of a great age, had 
 at last succumbed to the violence of the storms, for 
 many were lying prostrate. Day was now drawing 
 to a close, so we began to make the necessary pre- 
 parations for passing the night, which were not 
 difficult to men like mine, the greater part of whose 
 lives had been spent in the open air. Following up 
 a foaming torrent that came tumbling down the 
 side of the mountain, over huge boulders of granite, 
 with a roar like thunder, we came to a cleft in the 
 rocks, which was soon converted into a fortress 
 impregnable to either bears or wolves, the only 
 assailants likely to be found in these wild regions. 
 Our blankets and waterproofs were unrolled, and 
 we were soon all reclining round the blazing logs of 
 an immense camp-fire, on the side of which two 
 brass kettles, containing our evening repast, were
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 411 
 
 bubbling away merrily. Mine were a motley crew, 
 a rough and reckless lot of desperate men, of differ- 
 ent race and creeds, bound by no tie, and heeding 
 no law, yet perfect unanimity existed amongst them. 
 Wild songs were sung, strange tales were told ; and 
 many a hoarse peal of merriment rang through the 
 night air, as the jest went round. Loudly they 
 laughed, and little they recked for the morrow. 
 The moon was nearly at the full, and her silver light 
 made the open parts of the forest as clear as day ; 
 but I set the watch early, and bid my followers take 
 what repose they could, as I knew that they would 
 have a hard fag on the morrow. 
 
 The queen of the night was still high in the 
 heavens, when we began to make preparations for a 
 start by packing up our baggage in the smallest 
 space possible, and after a cup of hot coflfee and eau 
 de vie to keep out the night air, we were again en 
 route. We soon left the forest behind, and, after 
 crossing a belt of dwarf-pine, with an undergrowth 
 of savin and juniper bushes almost waist-high, we 
 came to a wilderness of rocks and beetling crags ; 
 having every now and then to clamber up steep 
 slopes covered with huge boulders of granite and 
 masses of fallen d^hns^ which were readily set in 
 motion. We were obliged to be very careful, and 
 ascend like skirmishers in extended order, as, every 
 few yards we went, huge fragments came rolling 
 down, which would have caused severe injury had 
 they struck any of us. After several hours' severe
 
 412 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 toil we clambered a ridge of broken rocks piled on 
 each other in great confusion, which up to this time 
 had entirely hidden the higher part of the mountain, 
 and the overwhelming sublimity of the scene that 
 then broke upon our view for the first time, amply 
 compensated for the fatigue we had undergone. 
 We had reached the edge of a huge glacier, which, 
 like a mighty river suddenly frozen, appeared to 
 flow down a gorge in the side of the mountain, and 
 extended for some miles both above and below the 
 ridge on which we were standing. Dense foliage 
 and huge masses of rock intervening, had prevented 
 our getting a glimpse of it before, notwithstanding 
 we had attained an altitude much above the lower 
 part, which seemed to have cleft its way far into the 
 heart of the forest. 
 
 The panorama from this point was magnificent, 
 for at the end of the glacier — which in some parts 
 was dazzling white, and in others of the colours of 
 the sapphire and the amethyst — where it appeared 
 to blend with masses of eternal snow, rose the stu- 
 pendous summit of the "Father of Mountains," 
 towering in silent majesty like a glittering mass of 
 cold alabaster. Seating ourselves on a smooth slab 
 of rock, we spent some time in gazing on the sur- 
 passingly-beautiful scene s>pread below and around, 
 and I made a futile attempt to sketch it ; but it was 
 labour under difficulties, for the cold became so in- 
 tense that I could scarcely hold my pencil, and had 
 to jump and caper about every moment in order to
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 413 
 
 prevent my limbs from becoming benumbed. Be- 
 sides this, the longer the eye dwelt upon the scene, 
 the vaster and more magnificent became its gigantic 
 and stately proportions ; and again and again I put 
 down my pencil, feeling the impossibility of doing 
 justice to it. At last, after a great trial of patience, 
 I managed to complete a tolerably correct outline, 
 which I filled in with the aid of niy glass, en- 
 deavouring at the same time to impress the scene 
 so correctly on my mind that not a single important 
 feature should be forgotten. 
 
 Whilst so employed, the rays of the rising sun 
 were just beginning to tinge the summits of the 
 loftiest ranges on the eastern horizon (where our 
 guide pointed out to me Mount Kazbek towering 
 high above the rest,) and by degrees each peak, 
 precipice, and ridge assumed a delicate rose-colour, 
 which deepened every moment until it became tinged 
 with a gorgeous golden tint that gradually paled as 
 the glorious luminary of day ascended in the heavens, 
 when after a short time the virgin snow was again left 
 in its unsullied whiteness. 
 
 No description could convey an idea of the intense 
 grandeur of the scene before us, which displayed a 
 richness of colouring far surpassing the painter's art 
 to depict. Mountains divided by deep, dark, densely- 
 wooded ravines lay beneath us, and the valley from 
 Avhich we commenced the ascent was bathed in a rich 
 violet hue. Castellated peaks and masses of rock of 
 every shape and form rose in all directions, and
 
 414 THE HT7NTING GROUNDS 
 
 many foaming torrents and cascades glistened like 
 silver on the rugged sides of the mountain. The only- 
 sounds that broke the intense silence that reigned 
 over the whole face of nature, were the roaring of 
 distant avalanches, the melancholy cry of the eagle, 
 or the shrill whistle of the marmot as, alarmed at 
 our intrusion on his domains, he scrambled into his 
 burrow under the rocks. 
 
 The bracing freshness of the air and the magni- 
 ficence of the scenery had the effect of enduing us 
 all with an exuberant overflow of joyous animation 
 and exhilaration of spirits, as for several minutes we 
 amused ourselves in testing our strength by seeing 
 who could throw farthest over the glacier, or hurl 
 the largest fragments of rock down the steep slope. 
 Whilst so amusing ourselves, a pair of immense 
 lammergeier came soarincj over our heads, I im- 
 mediately unslung my rifle, which I carried across 
 my back, and let drive a couple of shots, but both 
 were without eff'ect, the distance being too great. 
 A lucky thought flashed across my mind, which 1 
 immediately put into execution. I took a red silk 
 pocket-handkerchief, and, fastening a stone in the 
 centre, I threw it into the air several times ; and 
 when I saw that it had attracted their attention, I 
 threw it as far as I could down the slope before me. 
 It hardly fell when both made a swoop towards it, 
 and came well within distance. I threw up my 
 rifle, hit the leading bird hard with the first barrel, 
 and brought him down with the second ; but I had
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD, 415 
 
 a difHcult task to get to him, as the descent was 
 very precipitous and covered with loose stones and 
 shingle. He proved to be a magnificent specimen, 
 his wings measuring nearly ten feet from tip to tip, 
 I plucked out his wing-feathers and cut off the 
 head and claws as trophies, but I had not time to 
 take his skin, which I felt extremely sorry for. 
 Whilst engaged in this task, the female kept hover- 
 ing round about, uttering strange sad cries, and 
 several times I thought she would have attacked me, 
 so I gave her a shot which made her go to the 
 right-about. 
 
 We now clambered down upon the glacier, which 
 by its appearance from the height would, I thought, 
 prove easier travelling than along the craggy side of 
 the mountain ; but I soon found out my mistake, as 
 the surface, which I imagined to be tolerably even, 
 proved undulating, rugged, and much broken up by 
 crevices and chasms of immense depth and perpen- 
 dicular wall-like sides, which varied from a few 
 inches to many yards in width. After a wearisome 
 tramp of about a mile we came to a line of masses 
 of rock, piled one upon another, over which we 
 had great difiSculty in making our way. As these 
 obstructions appeared frequent, and we lost much 
 ground by seeking to avoid fissures that we dared 
 not leap, I determined to return once more to the 
 rocky ramparts on the side, and after a difficult 
 climb was once again on terra firma, and felt more 
 at home than on the surface of the glacier, whose
 
 416 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 continual cracking, creaking, and heaving, made us 
 feel nervous lest it might open directly under our 
 feet and engulf us, which seemed very possible, 
 as we twice saw the ice sink, give way, and tear 
 asunder, forming fearful yawning chasms of un- 
 known depths. 
 
 After several hours' continued exertion we got to 
 an altitude high above the head of the glacier, and 
 the aspect of the scenery became entirely changed ; 
 deep snow lay in all the gorges and ravines, and no 
 vegetation was seen except here and there a patch 
 of gentian or a few flowers of such intensely-bril- 
 liant blue that they seemed to reflect the colour of 
 the sky overhead. The slope of the ridge up which 
 we made our way was furrowed with deep fissures 
 and gullies, presenting a stern and monotonous ap- 
 pearance, and here and there covered with huge, 
 shapeless boulders of detached granite, piled one 
 upon another in wild confusion. A strange depres- 
 sing sense of desolation and dismal solitude reigned 
 in this wilderness of rocks and beetling crags : even 
 our voices seemed to re-echo with a strange un- 
 earthly sound. After a fatiguing climb up a nar- 
 row fissure in the mountain, filled with loose stones 
 and fragments of rock, that rolled from under the 
 feet at every step, we gained a grass-covered slope, 
 which, although steep, afforded great relief after our 
 fag up the bed of the watercourse. As we plodded 
 along we saw a troop of ibex scampering along a 
 craggy ridge many hundred feet below us, yet the
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 417 
 
 air was so rare that we distinctly heard tlie clatter 
 of their hoofs against the rocks, and the rolling of 
 the pebbles they displaced, and shortly afterwards 
 we saw a flight of butterflies that followed our course 
 for some distance, frequently alighting on our per- 
 sons. The ibex were the last we saw of animal 
 life ; flowers became extremely rare, and no in- 
 sects were to be seen, for very shortly afterwards 
 we reached the eternal snow, which, to our surprise, 
 proved far easier travelling than the naked rock. 
 
 We now tied ourselves together with ropes pro- 
 vided for the purpose, allowing about ten feet be- 
 tween each man, which proved a very necessary 
 precaution, as every now and again one or another 
 of our number would sink up to his middle in holes 
 concealed by the snow, notwithstanding we endea- 
 voured to find them out by sounding the way with 
 our staves. For several hours we continued to 
 make our way up the height, only stopping for a 
 moment now and then to refresh ourselves with a 
 mouthful of brandy, until at last we all of us began 
 to feel more or less affected with a difficulty in 
 breathing, more particularly Kuchuk, the Nubian, 
 who was by far the most powerful man amongst us. 
 This feeling wore off' after a time, returning at in- 
 tervals ; and the extreme elasticity and pureness of 
 the air prevented us from then feeling the fatigue 
 attendant on our continued exertions. I myself, 
 although often breathless from flounderino- in the 
 snow, did not at any time feel exhausted : a few 
 
 2 D
 
 418 THE HUNTING GE0UND3 
 
 minutes' rest would recruit my strength, and excite- 
 ment kept me from flagging. 
 
 The only interruption to the solemn silence that 
 reigned in that high altitude was the continual 
 rumbKng and roaring of avalanches, from which at 
 times our route became extremely dangerous. Once 
 I thought it would be all up with us, as the entire 
 side of the mountain seemed to be giving way, and 
 an enormous mass, containing thousands of tons of 
 earth and rock, came tearing past us with a roar 
 far exceeding that of the artillery at Sevastopol, 
 increasing in velocity, and overwhelming everything 
 in its course. It was a moment pregnant with 
 peril, more especially as, immediately afterwards, 
 huge boulders of rock and debris broke away and 
 came spinning down the slope as if the invisible 
 gigantic fiends, who are said to reside in these 
 regions, were playing at bowls. However, my com- 
 panions were Mussulmen and fatalists, and — if my 
 lono; residence in the East had not imbued me with 
 the same feelings — I was reckless and insensible to 
 fear, for as soon as the storm had passed we con- 
 tinued our route. Another long and tedious fag, 
 and we had attained our object, for we stood upon 
 the "loiuer bluff" of the summit of the El-Bruz, 
 being most likely the first of the human race who 
 had ever set foot upon it. 
 
 It was a moment of intense gratification, far sur- 
 passing every preconceived idea, for the panorama 
 that suddenly burst upon our eyes was so grand, so
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 419 
 
 overpoweringly sublime, that inexpressible feelings 
 of awe and strange emotions, impossible to define, 
 seemed to pervade tlie whole of our number. I 
 was the first to scramble np, and gave vent to the 
 exuberance of my exhilaration by a loud huzzah, the 
 Briton's cry, 
 
 " Whene'er" his " soul is up and pulse beats high — 
 Whether it hail the wine-cup or the fight, 
 And bid each arm be strong or bid each heart be light." 
 
 It is heard when he expresses his devotion and greets 
 his Queen ; — it rings through the air in the van of 
 the fight, above the pealing of death-shots or the 
 shrieks of the dying; — it is the shout of victory 
 when the field is won, and may be heard round the 
 social board when friend meets friend, and tlie glor- 
 ious past is brought to mind. It rang throughout 
 the country as the final adieu of thousands as they 
 marched to embark for the seat of war, and after a 
 lapse of years it was re-echoed by the few who re- 
 turned, covered with wounds and honour, but broken 
 down in health and spirits, when they Avere welcomed 
 home by their Sovereign and grateful countrymen. 
 My gentle reader, my voice has swelled that cry on 
 all of these occasions, but never did it burst from 
 my bosom with such an intense feeling of satisfac- 
 tion without alloy as when I first placed foot upon 
 the mighty El-Bruz. 
 
 I mounted a heap of rocks that lay piled in con- 
 fusion along a craggy ridge jutting out of the snow,
 
 420 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 as it appeared to be the highest point, and surveyed 
 at leisure the wonderful scene before me. The higher 
 summit still towered like a mass of sparkling ala- 
 baster, some three thousand feet above the crest 
 upon which I was standing, but even had the day 
 not been So far advanced I could not have made any 
 attempt to reach it, as a scarped precipice over six 
 hundred feet in depth, an inaccessible glacier, and a 
 ridge of bluff peaks divided us, although it looked 
 almost within the range of my rifle. Could I even 
 have descended and made a circuit of the lower sum- 
 mit, the glacier was an obstacle that would have been 
 insurmountable, as in it were stupendous icebergs 
 and wave upon wave of precipitous ridges with steep 
 scarped sides, apparently inaccessible to the foot of 
 man, which gave me the idea of numberless rocky 
 islands in a tempestuous ocean suddenly frozen. In 
 the valleys and undulations between were innumer- 
 able blue and violet streaks, which, with the aid of 
 my glass, I made out to be deep fissures and yawning 
 chasms so wide as to appear perfectly impassable, 
 although some seemed arched over with natural 
 bridges of ice. Here and there, scattered over the 
 surface, dark masses of rock and fantastically-grouped 
 aiguilles and pinnacles appeared like the domes, 
 spires, and minarets of far-distant Eastern cities, 
 whilst the massive ridges of ice forcibly reminded 
 me of lines of defence and fortifications on the largest 
 scale, the efi'ect of which was somewhat heightened 
 by the continual cracking and breaking of the ice.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 421 
 
 which often resembled a well kept-up file-firing, 
 varied by rolling volleys of musketry, whilst at in- 
 tervals the roaring of avalanches sounded like salvoes 
 of heavy artillery. 
 
 Those who have not witnessed cannot conceive 
 the solemn grandeur of the scene then before us, and 
 description can convey but a very faint idea of it. 
 The firmament was of that intensely-deep blue pecu- 
 liar to the waves of the jMediterranean at certain 
 times, and contrasted strangely with the dazzling 
 whiteness of the eternal snow, which lay spread out 
 like the vast winding-sheet of a dead world. The 
 sun, too, shone with a peculiarly strange unearthly 
 light, more like that of the moon, as if his rays were 
 not'sufficicntly powerful to penetrate the atmosphere. 
 For some time I was too much bewildered and over- 
 powered by emotion to fix my mind attentively on 
 the grand panorama stretched before me, but after a 
 time I distinguished, in the south-east, the lofty peak 
 of Mount Kasbec, towering high above rano-es of 
 mountains, rising one behind another, and diversified 
 with the richest colouring. To the westward, over- 
 looking the ranges of mountains we had passed, lay 
 the blue expanse of the Euxine, glistening in the 
 light of the sun like a sheet of burnished silver ; 
 and far away, in a north-easterly direction, over 
 fields of eternal snow, vast glaciers, and a sea of 
 mountain-ranges, intersected by deep, dark, densely- 
 wooded ravines, were the plains of the Kuban, veined 
 by sliming rivers. To the south-east, on the verge
 
 422 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 of the horizon, was a dense mist, which, notwith- 
 standing the distance, I have no doubt hung over 
 the Caspian. It was a glorious sight ; and I re- 
 mained gazing as long as I could endure the biting 
 cold, notwithstanding that I felt half blinded by 
 the strange reflection of the sun from the- snow, 
 for the broad peak of my hunting-cap had no 
 effect in keeping out the glare ; and we were each 
 obliged to fasten a strip of my silk handkerchief 
 across our eyes, in order to enable us to see the 
 way. Having refastened the ropes we commenced 
 the descent, and had made our way a consider- 
 able distance down the first ridge, by following 
 our own tracks, when suddenly I heard a cry of 
 alarm behind, and simultaneously felt the cord jerk. 
 I turned and saw Hoossain supporting the Nubian, 
 who was stretched senseless on the snow. At first I 
 thought he was in a fit, and rubbed his forehead with 
 snow, but on further examination I found breathing 
 suspended, the pulse and heart still, and I knew all 
 was over. I always carried a knife in which there 
 was a lancet, so I opened the veins in his arms and 
 temples, but could hardly squeeze out a drop of blood. 
 He was dead, and I believe the cause to have been 
 an affection of the heart. It was a melancholy end 
 to our hitherto successful enterprise, but nothing 
 could be done. We unfastened the cord which 
 attached him to the others, and laid him gently down 
 to take his last sleep, en a ledge of rock, where his 
 body would remain as undisturbed as if buried in
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 423 
 
 the deepest grave, for we were still far above any 
 indications of animal life. After a long weary 
 tramp we regained the ridge of rocks overlooking 
 the glacier, by which time the sun was nearly down, 
 and we had to wait some time before the moon got 
 sufficiently high to light us on our way. Once we 
 missed the track, and found ourselves clambering up 
 the smooth face of a rock, where a false step or a 
 slip would have precipitated us into a dark yawning 
 chasm below, so deep that we could not hear huge 
 rocks, which we saw rolling down the slope, when 
 they struck the bottom. Luckily it was o;loriously 
 clear night, and the moon shone with a brilliancy 
 rarely seen, except in the tropics. Now and then 
 a meteor darted across the firmament, leaving a long 
 train of light after it, and then vanished from our 
 sight. 
 
 At last we reached the first vegetation, and to- 
 wards midnight entered a belt of pine-forest, where 
 we felt so utterly done-up with fatigue that we were 
 obliged to halt. After some trouble we made a huge 
 fire, and, having divided what brandy we had left 
 amongst us, rolled ourselves up iji our blankets, too 
 tired even to eat or prepare coffee. Towards morn- 
 ing, having somewhat recovered, I felt ravenous, 
 and, although so stiff that I could hardly crawl, 
 managed to awake Hoossain, who got some water 
 and made coffee, which, with biscuits and the re- 
 mains of our provisions, once more set us on our 
 legs.
 
 42-i THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 
 
 "We did not, however, think of moving until the 
 sun was high in the heavens. As we were skirting 
 the belt of pines, endeavouring to find out our old 
 track, I caught sight of a magnificent solitary old 
 buck-ibex, perched on a peak some short distance 
 below us, and, after some careful stalking, managed 
 to roll him over. He proved a splendid specimen, 
 his coat being very silky nearly white, and fifteen 
 inches in length. His horns measured thirty-four 
 inches. I cut off his head and skin, and we made 
 the best of our way to the deserted konac, where we 
 arrived just before sunset. We all lay down round 
 the fire, whilst All and his party prepared our food, 
 and, after a long sleep, got up much refreshed, 
 though still fearfully stiff — indeed that feeling did 
 not entirely wear off for a fortnight. 
 
 Towards noon we mounted our horses and rode 
 into the hamlet, where the old chief welcomed us as 
 if we had risen from the dead. Here we remained 
 a few days to recruit, and had every reason to be 
 highly satisfied with our stay, for we were most 
 hospitably treated by the whole tribe. 
 
 We then returned to our old friend the Illori 
 Bey, with whom we passed a merry week ; after 
 which we made our way to Souchum Kaleh, where 
 we embarked in a steamer for Constantinople.
 
 PART III -ALGERIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 A SPORTING RECONNAISSANCE IN ALGERIA. 
 
 The origin of the expedition. — The start. — Paris. — Difficulty 
 about the importation of gunpowder. — A ruse. — Marseilles. 
 — The voyage. — Stora. — Bone. — French hospitality. — Lake 
 Fedzara. — Ain-Mokra. — Convivial evening. — Songs. — The 
 trail of a lion. — Small-game shooting. — Lions afoot. — 
 Night- watching. — Uncomfortable position. — The lion again. 
 — His currishness. — Preparations for a trip inland. — 
 Philippeville. — Roman remains. — The kindness of the 
 French authorities. — Our journey. — A strange Jehu. — Con- 
 btantiue. — The game of Algeria. 
 
 The origin of this expedition was as follows : — 
 Monsieur Jules Gerard of the French army, the 
 celebrated " Taeur des Leons," having formed the 
 nucleus of the Algerian Sj^orting Club, (in which 
 are to be found the names of most of the sporting 
 noblemen and gentry in France,) kindly sent me a 
 prospectus, and I thought it was a pity that the
 
 426 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 British public should not be aware of the splendid 
 field for sport of all kinds that was within four 
 days' journey of their shores. Although I con- 
 sidered that the formation of a club for sportsmen 
 of all nations, on a permanent and substantial foun- 
 dation, was an extremely desirable project, yet I 
 foresaw that there were certain difiiculties in the 
 way which nothing but what military men would 
 term a " reconnaissance in force," would ever be 
 able successfully to surmount. I therefore proposed 
 the present trip, and, joined by a few gentlemen 
 who had the same object in view, made every pre- 
 paration for a start. Unfortunately Monsieur Jules 
 Gdrard (who would have been of great assistance) 
 was unable to accompany us, so that we had many 
 disadvantages to labour against on arrival in the 
 country ; and the weather proving unfavourable 
 during the greater part of our sojourn, "the bag" 
 was small in comparison with what might have 
 been made under more favourable circumstances. 
 
 On Sunday afternoon, the 7th of February, 1858, 
 a number of four-wheelers were seen drawn up in 
 a row in front of a certain house, not a hundred 
 yards away from the statue of the great Napier, 
 round which a gaping crowd were assembled, and 
 from the soito voce conjectures that were made, 
 it was evident that the public had not decided 
 whether there was to be a wedding or a funeral 
 procession. 
 
 Their suspense, however, was not of long dura-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 427 
 
 tion, for almost immediately after the arrival of the 
 cabs, sundry watermen and individuals of that 
 genus proceeded to load the exterior of each vehicle 
 with portmanteaus, camp-beds, and other divers- 
 shaped packages, among which gun-cases appeared 
 to predominate. Some of the bystanders, more 
 curious than the rest, scrutinised the directions and 
 labels on the boxes, and expressed their astonish- 
 ment on seeing on each a lion and the words, 
 " Algerian Sporting Expedition, Philippeville, 
 Algeria, vid Paris and Marseilles." 
 
 When the traps were all arranged, a number of 
 gentlemen entered the cabs, and the word being 
 given, " To the London Bridge Railway Station," 
 away they drove, and the explorers of the new 
 hunting grounds were fairly started. After a short 
 consultation with a very civil superintendent, tickets 
 were taken to Paris, via Newhaven and Dieppe, 
 and the baggage registered throughout, so as not to 
 be subject to any troublesome inspection from either 
 custom-house officers or gendarmes, until arrival at 
 its destination. 
 
 At six P.M. we took our places in the carriages, 
 the signal whistle was heard, the engine gave a re- 
 sponsive grunt, and we had begun our journey 
 to Algeria. 
 
 At half-past eight we arrived at Newhaven, and 
 put up at the Loudon and Paris Hotel, where we 
 found the people not the most civil in the world, 
 and the sheets of our beds unquestionably damp.
 
 428 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 The refreshments were very so-so, but we found the 
 charges extremely moderate. 
 
 Monday, 8th. — After an unsatisfactory break- 
 f\ist, left Newhaven by the " Dieppe" steamer, at a 
 quarter to ten, and, after an unpleasant voyage 
 over a nasty chopping sea, we arrived at Dieppe 
 at four P.M. 
 
 Put up at the Hotel de Londres, where we got 
 some refreshment, and at seven P.M. started by train 
 to Paris, via Eouen. 
 
 Arrived at Paris at midnight, and put up at the 
 Hotel des Deux Mondes, Eue d'Antin, where we 
 got very handsomely furnished suites of rooms, and 
 a very fair supper before we turned in. 
 
 Tuesday, 9th. — Sir William F , the President 
 
 of our Association, a jolly old Baronet from the 
 north of England, and another member joined us, 
 having gone on a couple of days in advauce. He 
 rather shocked our nerves by telling us that the 
 French authorities had seized his English powder, 
 and would not allow him to have it on payment of 
 any duty. It was in vain he showed a letter from 
 the French ambassador in London, authorising the 
 carriage of arms and ammunition through France ; 
 they ignored his authority, and kept the powder. 
 This piece of news made us all look very blue, for 
 we had a hundredweight amongst our traps, which 
 we looked upon as our greatest treasure, and we 
 held a consultation as to what had best be done 
 under the circumstances. We also had a letter to
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 429 
 
 the chef an douane (head of tlie customs,) but as 
 the first one had i)roved useless, we had no faith 
 that ours would prove of more avail. 
 
 All our traps were still at the custom-house, and 
 ten A.M. was the time appointed for the exami- 
 nation. The hour was fast approachinj^, and as 
 yet no plan had been fixed upon to elude the 
 vigilance of the gendarmes, when I proposed to 
 reconnoitre the ground ; and accordingly got into a 
 trap, drove down to the custom-house, and de- 
 manded a portmanteau containing uniform, clothes, 
 &c. This, with several gun-cases, was given up 
 after a slight examination, and carried off in 
 triumph to the hotel. I then donned my uniform, 
 which is decorated with sundry bits of H.lM.'s 
 " Silver," and, accompanied by our worthy Pre- 
 sident in full Highland costume, and the other 
 members of the Association, with chasseurs and 
 gillies in Lincoln-green and kilts, we started off in 
 a body to the " Douane." 
 
 On entering the railway station we evidently 
 caused some excitement, for the ofiicials seemed 
 rather taken aback at our appearance. I asked at 
 once for the chef, and, acting as spokesman for the 
 rest, demanded that all our baggage might be de- 
 livered up as soon as possible. The officials were 
 all extremely polite, and in a few moments it was 
 before us. Then came the momentous period — 
 bunches of keys were presented, which were most 
 courteously declined with sundry bows and scrapes.
 
 430 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 Two of the chasseurs opened a carpet-bag contain- 
 ing clothes, a hamper of saddlery, and a camp- 
 bed or two ; the goods were chalked with simdry 
 hieroglyphics, and, after another series of saluta- 
 tions, were mounted on vehicles, and the game was 
 played and won. 
 
 On arrival at the hotel, three cheers were given 
 by all hands on account of the success. 
 
 Went to the theatre in the Boulevards des Italiens, 
 and finished up the night at a hal masque, where 
 our worthy president, whose kilt caused intense 
 sensation, astonished the natives in a pas seul, 
 (a Lancashire jig,) and obtained unboimded ap- 
 plause. 
 
 Wednesday, lOth. — Got our ammunition safely 
 packed in a large case, which we labelled Comes- 
 tibles " to escape observation, and drove about the 
 town paying sundry visits. 
 
 After dinner set off by the eight o'clock p.m. express 
 for Marseilles, via Lyons. Arrived at Lyons at seven 
 A.M., (on Tuesday, 11th,) got a tolerable breakfast, 
 arrived at Marseilles at four p.m., put up at the Hotel 
 de Bristol, got a very decent dinner, and went to 
 the Cafe Alkazer, a first-rate establishment of the 
 sort, where we heard some very good music. Ad- 
 journed from there to the theatre, and finished off 
 at a ball, where the Con. Con. seemed to be the 
 order of the evening. 
 
 Friday, 12th. — After some little trouble regard- 
 ing our passports, we took our passage by the
 
 OF TUE OLD WORLD. 431 
 
 Messagerics Imperial steamer Oasis, from Marseilles 
 to Bone, via, Pliilippeville. Embarked at half-past 
 eleven, got under weigh at twelve, with a wind from 
 the S.E. dead in our teeth. Coasted along the 
 French shore as far as Toulon, and then made direct 
 south. Had rather a rough night, there being much 
 wind and a heavy swell. 
 
 Our fellow-passengers were chiefly French officers 
 returning from leave ; very few of whom appeared 
 at dinner, they being but poor sailors. Some of our 
 party, too, looked uncommonly white about the 
 gills, whilst with others the sea air had only the 
 effect of sharpening their appetites ; and they made 
 up for the rest. 
 
 Saturday, \Mh. — A good deal of sea on, and 
 strong adverse winds from the east. Rolled about 
 a good deal, much to the dissatisfaction of many of 
 the passengers. The living on board very good, 
 and the captain and officers extremely civil and 
 polite. 
 
 Sunday, 14!th. — Made the land, distance twelve 
 leagues, at eight a.m., which proved to be Cape 
 Atia ; came within a mile of it at noon, and kept 
 along tlie mountainous coast of Kabylia, until nearly 
 four P.M., when we rounded a bluff point, and 
 entered the Gulf of Stora ; and the lighthouse, on a 
 small rocky island, came in view, with the little 
 town of Stora. Philippeville (built on the site of 
 the old Roman town Rusicada) was about two and 
 a half miles to the eastward.
 
 432 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 A large barracks and hospital form conspicuous 
 objects on entering ; and the town, which is built 
 upon a slope, has a very picturesque appearance, as 
 it Kes at the foot of steep and well-wooded hills. 
 Maltese boatmen soon surrounded the vessel ; and, 
 after much confusion, most of the passengers landed 
 at Stora. Our party remained on board, as it wa? 
 growing dusk. 
 
 3Ionday, 15th. — "Went on shore in a Maltese, 
 boat; found the town remarkably clean, and well 
 provided with very fair shops. Put up at the 
 Hotel de France, which we found very comfortable 
 quarters. 
 
 Were engaged nearly all day in going from office 
 to office, procuring our permis de chasse or game- 
 certificates. Found all the French authorities ex- 
 tremely civil, polite, and ready to help us. Heard 
 very good accounts of game, and were altogether 
 much pleased with the appearance of the country. 
 Returned on board to dine and sleep. 
 
 Tuesday, IGth. — Sketched the coast from the 
 deck. Our good steamer, the Oasis, remained 
 for two days to discharge, and take in cargo for 
 Tunis. 
 
 The instructions of M. Jules Gerard were laid be- 
 fore the party, and followed to the letter. They 
 were to the effect, " that if the party found the 
 weather fine on arrival at Philippeville, they were to 
 proceed at once to Bone, (which is some eighty 
 miles further to the eastward,) and, taking a guide
 
 Of the old world. 433 
 
 from the Chef du Bureau Arabe, were to establish 
 themselves in the Caravansary of Ain Mokra, on 
 the border of the Lake Fedzara." 
 
 Tlie weather was beautiful at Philippeville, like 
 May in England ; so, after having looked about the 
 place, we re-embarked once more, and, at six p.m., 
 started for Bone, where we arrived at about two 
 A.M. on Ash Wednesday, the 17th of February. 
 
 We were very much struck with the beautiful 
 scenery about Bone when we got up at sunrise. On 
 an abrupt cliff, (Cape de Garde,) projecting into 
 the sea, is the lighthouse, and near it a handsome- 
 looking country-house, which we afterwards found 
 to be a caf4. 
 
 On another eminence is a Mussulman marabout, 
 or shrine, erected to the memory of some holy man. 
 On a commanding height is the Fort of Bone, in 
 which are about three thousand felons, who are con- 
 demned to hard labour. They were busy making a 
 winding road from the sea to the fort, and swarmed 
 on the height thick as bees, guarded by a large 
 number of French soldiers. 
 
 Below the fort, to the eastward, is situated the 
 town of Bone, encircled by the old Moorish walls of 
 other days, which the French keep in excellent 
 repair. The most conspicuous buildings are a large 
 barracks, facing the sea, and a government stores, 
 rising high above the houses of the town, which are 
 mostly built with terraced roofs. Farther to the 
 eastward of the town is an old ^loorish bridcre, of 
 
 2 E^
 
 434 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 several arclies, said to have been built by the 
 Eomans, which connects the town with the beauti- 
 ful olive-covered hill of St Augustin, at the foot of 
 which are several substantially-built country houses 
 and farms, besides a mosque, a small barracks, and 
 a depot for cattle and baggage animals for the use 
 of the French army. 
 
 We landed at six A.M., and, entering the town by 
 a gate which is evidently of French construction — 
 as there are still traces to be seen of the old Moorish 
 one close to, — proceeded to the Customhouse, where 
 our baggage was passed at once without the slightest 
 examination or hindrance. 
 
 We then ascended a rather steep and narrow 
 street, leading to the Grande Place, and took up our 
 abode in the Hotel de France. After breakfast, we 
 left cards on General Perigot, commanding the sub- 
 division of Bone, on M. le Marquis de Gantes, the 
 Sous-Prefet, and Captain Guyon Vernier, Chef du 
 Bureau Arabe, (the heau-id^al of a Light Cavalry 
 officer,) from each of whom we received the greatest 
 kindness and attention. They proffered their ser- 
 vices in any way in which they could assist the 
 party. M. Guyon Vernier provided us with an 
 interpreter and a cook, both very necessary adjuncts 
 to our establishment, and in the afternoon lent us 
 horses, and took us over the town and the adjacent 
 country. Dined at the Hotel de France, which we 
 found to be an establishment needing many reforms, 
 as both the bedrooms and salle d manger are dirty,
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 435 
 
 the attendance bad, and the living abominable. The 
 charges are moderate. We found the cuisine of the 
 Cafe Ourse (kept by a good-looking damsel, weigh- 
 ing some eighteen stone more or less, whom we 
 designated " the Stout Party ") much better ; indeed, 
 we had every reason to be satisfied both with the 
 cleanliness of the place and the cooking. 
 
 Thursday, 18^/t. — Was engaged the whole day in 
 purchasing wine, spirits, and supplies of all kinds 
 for our expedition. Heard from some of the officers 
 of the 70th Regiment de Ligne that woodcocks had 
 been extremely scarce this season in comparison 
 with other years. 
 
 Visited the town, and strolled about the public 
 promenade outside the walls, where the baud of the 
 70th played several pieces from different operas in 
 an efficient manner. Bands of French regiments 
 are much stronger than English ones. That of the 
 70th consisted of fifty performers, exclusive of the 
 drums. Had a wretched dinner at the Hotel de 
 France. Visited a cafe chantant in the evening, 
 where we heard some tolerable singing. 
 
 Friday, Idth. — The Chef du Bureau Arabe kindly 
 procured for our party a large open carriage, saddle- 
 horses, and baggage-mules, and M. de Burg, a large 
 landholder, kindly lent us a large waggon, with a 
 fine team of six mules, to carry our supplies ; and 
 at about noon we left Bone for the Caravansary of 
 Ain Mokra, accompanied by M. Guyou Vernier and 
 a party of mounted Arabs.
 
 436 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 The road, which was tolerably good, wound along 
 a valley about a couple of miles broad, some portion 
 of which was cultivated, but the greater part was 
 overgrown with a curious kind of wild bulbous 
 plant, which much resembles our daffodil, and lilies 
 of different kinds. 
 
 On either side rose hills some six hundred feet in 
 height, covered with low jungle and brushwood, 
 which M. Vernier informed us were composed chiefly 
 of iron-ore, which yielded eighty-six per cent, of 
 metal, fully equal to that imported from Sweden 
 On one of the hills, to the left of the road, a mining 
 company has been established, and a tramway 
 formed to convey the metal to Bone. 
 
 We started three or four hares and a partridge 
 en route, as we rode along. At a short distance 
 from the town is a large loop-holed building, which 
 was formerly the limit of the French jurisdiction, 
 and M. Vernier informed us that he had been pre- 
 sent at several skirmishes with the Arabs at that 
 point some fifteen years ago. 
 
 After a pleasant ride of about two hours, a turn 
 in the valley gave us a view of the Lake Fedzara, 
 and we were all much delighted with the scenery 
 and with our prospects of sport, for clouds of duck 
 were seen hovering over the reeds, which were at 
 some distance from the edge of the water. The 
 lake is about sixteen miles in length, and varies from 
 four to ten in breadth. The road winds along the 
 northern bank between the lake and a long range
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 437 
 
 of wooded hills, some small portions of wliicli are 
 cTiltivated, The edge of the lake is surrounded by- 
 rushes, averaging nearly three feet in height, and 
 here and there are patches of brushwood and thorn- 
 bushes. We rode along the edge of the lake for 
 about two hours, the only houses we passed being 
 those of two invalid French soldiers, who are em- 
 ployed in mending the road. 
 
 We passed three Arab encampments, all at some 
 short distance from the road, and were considerably 
 annoyed by their numerous dogs barking and yelp- 
 ing at our horses' heels. 
 
 At sunset we arrived at the Caravansaiy of Ain 
 Mokra, where we sat down to a substantial dinner, 
 provided by the maitre d'hotel, a Frenchman of the 
 name of Bosquet, who is in charge of the building. 
 Our ride had sharpened our appetites, and we did 
 ample justice to our good cheer. After dinner we 
 had a brew, and singing was the order of the night. 
 Our vivandi^re particularly distinguished herself on 
 this occasion, and was warmly applauded Another 
 of our party, from the north of the Tweed, was not 
 behindhand. The president's hunting-song was very 
 justly encored, and brought forth roars of laughter. 
 As the rule of the house was that every one should 
 chant when his turn came round, or take a dose of 
 Epsom salts hot, there was no escape. I insert the 
 words of my songs, which I composed when laid up 
 on my back from wounds in hospital, and time hung 
 heavily on my hands : —
 
 438 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND* 
 
 The sun was sinking in the west 
 
 Below the deep blue sea; 
 His rays still gilt the billows' crest. 
 
 And land lay on our lee. 
 Darkly it loom'd above the wave. 
 
 As twilight gather'd round ; 
 Each heart was sad, each soldier grave, 
 
 Though we were homeward bound. 
 
 For one all loved lay on the deck, 
 
 Who never would rise more ; 
 His eys were fix'd on that dark speck 
 
 They said was England's shore. 
 His brow was chill — all pain was past — 
 
 Tears stood in every eye ; 
 The shades of death were gathering fast— 
 
 His time was come to die. 
 
 His heart was in his father's hall. 
 He fancied friends were nigh ; 
 
 At times he 'd on his mother call, 
 And bid her not to sigh. 
 
 * The preceding lines were written from an incident during 
 the late war, an account of which appeared in one of the Eng- 
 lish newspapers, A transport, conveying the wounded soldiers 
 from the Crimea, had been telegraphed as having arrived at 
 Spithead. No sooner was the anchor down than the vessel was 
 crowded by the friends and relatives of the invalids, and among 
 them came an old gentleman to look after the disembarkation 
 of his only son, a youth of eighteen, who had been reported 
 among the severely wounded. On arrival on board, the afflicted 
 father was told that his son had breathed his last the evening 
 before, within sight of land. The shock was too great for the 
 old man to bear, and he died suddenly on hearing the news.
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 439 
 
 We heard him try to breathe the prayer 
 
 Which she perchance had taught : 
 Veterans wept as they stood there, 
 
 With whom that boy had fought. 
 
 The night closed round — a mournful wail 
 
 Was heard along the deep ; 
 To all on board it told the tale — 
 
 Our friend had sunk to sleep. 
 Bright morning broke — the freshening breeze 
 
 Our good ship onward bore ; 
 We saw the cliffs and stately trees 
 
 Of dear Old England's shore. 
 
 The anchor fell with grating sound, 
 
 Our perils now were o'er, 
 And dear ones greet the homeward-bound 
 
 They 'd thought to see no more. 
 Friends crowded round : one hale old man 
 
 Gazed on with troubled air; 
 Each soldier's face he seem'd to scan, 
 
 But no one knew him there. 
 
 A-t last he breathed the lost one's name — 
 
 Each soldier turn'd away. 
 Again he ask'd — the captain came, 
 
 But knew not what to say. 
 A tear roU'd from the sailor's eye — 
 
 He pointed o'er his head, 
 Where Britain's banner, half mast high, 
 
 Proclaim'd that one was dead. 
 
 He took the mourner by the hand, 
 
 And led him to the corse ; 
 Surrounded by our weeping band, 
 
 He told him of his loss. 
 The old man kiss'd the pallid cheek, 
 
 And knelt down by the dead, 
 As if in prayer : he did not speak. 
 
 He rose not — life had fled.
 
 4^40 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 SONG.— THE BASHI-BAZOUK TO HIS HORSE, 
 "DESERT-BORN."* 
 
 Come, rouse thee, my charger, prepare for the fray ; 
 For trumpets are braying, and we must away ! 
 The booming of cannon sounds loud on the wind ; 
 When fame 's to be won, we must ne'er be behind. 
 Let those who prefer it dwell in a fix'd home, 
 But we, my heart's treasure, together will roam ! 
 For Islam is threaten'd — the Sultan has need 
 Of the Bashi-bazouk and his brave Arab steed. 
 
 Chorus. 
 I 'm mounted ! I 'm mounted ! I 'm away like the wind ; 
 No steed in the desert can leave me behind. 
 Al-ham-du-lillah ! t— I fear not a foe ; 
 I 'm free as the breezes that o'er the sands blow ! 
 
 My own '* Desert-born," dost remember the day, 
 When Cossack hordes hover'd around us at bay, 
 And we charged through the mass like a whirwind's blast, 
 And gain'd the vast steppe when the danger was past ?J 
 How the foes howl'd with rage as they watch'd our flight, 
 And f ollow'd our course till the fall of the night ? 
 I laugh'd at their efforts — for, unmatch'd in speed, 
 I knew none could reach us, my brave Arab steed ! 
 
 Chorus. 
 I 'm mounted ! I 'm mounted ! I 'm away like the wind ; 
 No steed in the desert can leave me behind. 
 Al-ham-dulillah !— I fear not a foe ; 
 I 'm free as the breezes that o'er the sands blow ! 
 
 • " Desert-born," a favourite Arab charger, killed at the battle 
 of Inkermann. 
 + " Thanks be to God ! " a common Arabic expression.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 441 
 
 We've traversed the land, and we've sail'd o'er the main — 
 
 Now the hour 's near at hand to set forth again. 
 
 Fearless of danger, we roam in all weather ; 
 
 No peril can daunt us while we are together. 
 
 No maiden so fair but she causes remorse : 
 
 I have known none with thee, my own gallant horse I 
 
 I never found friend in the hour of my need 
 
 True as thee, " Desert-born," my brave Arab steed ! 
 
 Chords. 
 
 I 'm mounted ! I 'm mounted ! I 'm away like the wind ; 
 No steed in the desert can leave me behind. 
 Al-ham-du-lillah ! — I fear not a foe ; 
 I 'm free as the breezes that o'er the sands blow I 
 
 THE WOUNDED HIGHLANDER. 
 
 RECITATIVE. 
 
 The eve the Alma's heights were won, 
 
 As o'er the field I trod, 
 I mark'd a wounded Highlander 
 
 Lie bleeding on the sod. 
 His brother strove to stanch the wound ; 
 
 Alas ! it was in vain : 
 Dark crimson streams flow'd on the ground ; 
 
 And he sang this sad strain : — 
 
 " Ye maunna weep for me, Willie 1 
 
 Oh dinna greet sae sair : 
 Ye '11 follow me ere lang, laddie, 
 
 When we shall part na mair ! 
 Like yonder setting sun, Willie, 
 
 E'en sae my course is run ; 
 But he will rise again, laddie, 
 
 And I shall then be gone !
 
 442 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 " Maybe when ye '11 gae back, Willie, 
 
 To our hame by the burn. 
 Ye '11 tell them a' the tale, laddie, 
 
 0' him wha'U no return. 
 Ye '11 tell them how I fought, Willie, 
 
 Like sodger true and brave ! 
 'Twill ease my mither's heart, laddie, 
 
 When I am in the grave. 
 
 " There 's ane wha sair will greet, Willie— 
 
 The news, oh ! gently brek. 
 For she was a' in a' to me ; 
 
 Ye '11 lo'e her for my sake ! 
 Oh 'tis sair hard to dee, Willie, 
 
 And leave her a' alone ! 
 It 's but for her I greet, laddie — 
 
 For her when I am gone. 
 
 " Oh dinna mind my words, Willie, 
 
 And dinna, dinna sigh ; 
 I wadna ca' life back again — 
 
 'Tis for my Queen I die I 
 And 'tis a glorious day, Willie, 
 
 As e'er yon sun set on. 
 Ye '11 comfort a' at hame, laddie, 
 
 When I am deid an' gone ! 
 
 " Now fauld me to your heart, Willie, 
 
 The nicht air 's f earf u' keen ! 
 And kiss me ere I gae, laddie ! 
 
 There 's darkness o'er my een. 
 I ken I 'm sinking fast, Willie, 
 
 The cauld strikes to the bone ! 
 Ye '11 comfort a' at hame, laddie, 
 
 When I am deid an' gone ! " 
 
 Close in his brother's arms, 
 Lock'd in his fast embrace.
 
 OF THE OLD WOELD. 443 
 
 He paBs'd away as if in sleep, 
 
 A smile upon his face. 
 We cut a lock of curling hair, 
 
 That o'er his brow did wave ; 
 Then by the Alma's rippling stream 
 
 We dug the soldier's grave. 
 
 Saturday, 20i/i.— Sir William, M. Guyon Ver- 
 nier, and I rode out to reconnoitre the country, and 
 visited the " douar " (encampment) of an Arab 
 tribe, about five miles from Ain Mokra, where we 
 saw the pugs of a lion who had carried off a sheep 
 the night previous, and tracked him to a hill 
 covered with low wood. Here we bade adieu to 
 M. Guyon Vernier, who had to go on duty 
 towards Cape de Fer, and returned to Ain Mokra 
 by the lake, where we saw thousands of duck, 
 teal, and snipe; bagged twenty snipe, one hare, 
 three partridges, two teal, two quail, and a water- 
 rail. 
 
 At night we watched by a watercourse, which 
 the lion had passed twice the evening before ; and 
 heard him roaring at the distance of a quarter of a 
 mile, but did not get a sight of him. The night 
 dark and showery. 
 
 Shot, along the borders of the lake, forty snipe, 
 
 one duck, and two water-rail. Mr A watched 
 
 for the lion, and heard him roar during the night, 
 but did not see him. 
 
 Monday, 2-2d. — After breakfast, was preparing 
 my gear for a day's snipe-shooting on the lake,
 
 444 THE HUNTING GROmTDS 
 
 when an Arab Sheikh came to the caravansary, and 
 informed me that a lion and lioness had killed two 
 cows in his douar the night previous. I immedi- 
 ately mounted, and, accompanied by Mahomed 
 (my servant and interpreter) and a " spahi/' (Arab 
 irregular cavalry trooper,) who carried my spare 
 guns, galloped to the scene of action. The douar 
 consisted of about thirty gourhis, or huts, some 
 thatched, and others made of black camel's-hair 
 cloth, forming the habitation of men, women, chil- 
 dren, cattle, and dogs of every description, from 
 the well-bred " sloghee," (Arab greyhound,) to the 
 yelping, snarling cur. 
 
 About a hundred paces from the douar several 
 vultures were busy picking what remained of the 
 carcasses of the two cows, and, on examination of 
 the ground, I found the footprints of two lions, a 
 hyena, and several jackals and dogs. 
 
 Accompanied by the " wakeef," or head man of 
 the douar, I went to a hill, about eleven miles' dis- 
 tance, where they said the lion» had been seen to 
 go; but after a long search found no pugs, so I 
 returned once more to the douar. Here I got a 
 drink of sour milk, and again examined the ground 
 where the cattle had been killed. After some little 
 difficulty, I got upon the trail of the two lions, 
 (which was in places partially obliterated by the 
 footprints of men and cattle,) and followed it up 
 hill and down dale for some eight miles, when, in a 
 deep and densely-wooded ravine, I found the lair.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 445 
 
 Had I been alone I might, perhaps, have got a shot, 
 for the place where they liad been sleeping after 
 their feast was warm with the heat of their bodies 
 when I arrived, and unmistakable signs showed they 
 had been there very lately ; but the noise made by 
 the Arabs, who would talk among themselves, in 
 spite of my remonstrance, scared them away. 
 
 I tracked them through dense wood for a short 
 distance, when my olfactories informed me that a 
 putrid carcass was not far off, and, guided by the 
 smell, I made my way through the underwood, and 
 came across the dead body of a young lion, some- 
 thing more than a year old. It bore the marks (as a 
 coroner would say) of a violent death, for the neck, 
 chest, and belly were gashed and ripped open as if 
 with a knife. On examining the ground round 
 about, I found the footprints of a large boar, who 
 had evidently intruded into the lair and killed " the 
 youthful scion of the Eoyal House," though not 
 without a violent struggle, for the grass and herbage 
 was trodden down, and bore the marks of a severe 
 fight. I cut off the forelock and some claws, and 
 made the Arabs cut off the head. It was too far 
 gone to skin. 
 
 I then retui-ned to the head of the ravine, where 
 there were several old marks of the lions having 
 frequently passed, and constructed a kind of rifle-pit, 
 which I concealed with branches of trees, at a point 
 which commanded two paths, on both of which I 
 could perceive lion-pugs. Here I remained all
 
 446 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 iiight, and, although I heard the lions roar at a dis- 
 tance, I saw nothing on either of them, I twice 
 heard a hog pass during the night, but it was very 
 dark, and I could not get a shot. I also heard the 
 cry of a hyena, and several packs of jackals. 
 
 Tuesday, 2od — I returned to the douar early in 
 the morning, and made a breakfast of eggs and gal- 
 lets, (a kind of wheaten cake made of flour and 
 milk, and baked on an iron plate.) Shot three hares 
 and a brace of partridges for food, and strolled about 
 the jungle until near sunset, when, having made a 
 game-dinner, I took post in the same place as last 
 night, and, about ten o'clock, I heard the unmis- 
 takable sounds which told me the king of beasts was 
 afoot. 
 
 At first the sound appeared to come from the 
 bottom of the ravine, but afterwards it seemed much 
 nearer, and I lay very still on the qui vive, fully 
 expecting I should hear his footsteps before long, 
 though the night was so dark that I hardly hoped 
 to get a fair shot. I lay listening for nearly an hour 
 to no purpose, when suddenly I heard him roar on 
 the hill behind the place where I was posted, though 
 how he got there I do not know. The night was 
 very dark and showery, but as I had first-rate arms, 
 and a Cording's waterproof-sheet to keep all dry, I 
 did not fear any miss-fires. I remained at my post on 
 the crest of the hill until nearly three o'clock in the 
 morning, at times hearing the lion roar, more or less 
 distinctly, as he roamed about, when, becoming im-
 
 OF THE OLD WOELD, 4 4 7 
 
 patient, and feeling an old wound ache from change 
 of weather and my cramped position, I wrapped my 
 waterproof round my gun, and placed it against a tree, 
 and, armed with my double rifle and revolver, sallied 
 out towards the point where I fancied the lion was. 
 
 Guided by his roar, which very much resembles 
 the noise made by a bull, followed by several grunts, 
 though, of course, much louder, I scrambled through 
 the brushwood until I got so near that I could dis- 
 tinctly hear him breathe, or rather snore, as he 
 moved along. 
 
 Rain was now falling very heavily ; my clothes 
 were wet through and through, and the night was 
 so dark that I could hardly see two yards before me. 
 I lay down and placed my ear to the ground every 
 now and then, creeping on with the greatest caution, 
 fearing that my footsteps might betray me, 
 
 I could distinctly hear the lion making a curious 
 moaning sound and grunting, within fifty paces from 
 me, and at times I thought I heard a rustling among 
 the bushes as if he was coming towards me, but I 
 saw nothing. 
 
 This game must have lasted nearly an hour, and I 
 was getting nearly tired of it, when, as I was creep- 
 ing along on my hands and knees, I suddenly fell 
 down a steep ravine, about six feet deep, among a 
 lot of thorny bushes, A stream of water, nearly a 
 foot in depth, was flowing at the bottom, and I again 
 fell into this, rifle and all, as I was striving to re- 
 gain my footing.
 
 448 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 Whilst in this predicament I heard a crackling of 
 the brushwood, and a loud roar close to, and I saw 
 the dark outline of the lion scrambling up the op- 
 posite bank. I threw up my rifle and pulled -the 
 trigger, but the charge was wet, and the caps only 
 exploded. What would I then have given for a 
 breech-loader, when, had I even suspected the first 
 charge to be damp, I could have substituted a fresh 
 cartridge in two seconds. 
 
 The noise of my fall must have alarmed the lion, 
 for I heard him no more that night. My face, 
 hands, and legs, were full of thorns, my clothes were 
 soaking wet through, my left wrist felt sprained^ 
 and all my bones ached with fever, so I groped 
 about for the bank of the ravine, against which 
 I leaned till morning, when I examined the 
 ground. 
 
 Wednesday^ 24:th. — The lion's pugs were very 
 distinctly imprinted in the mud, and at one time he 
 had cleaned his claws against the trunk of a cork- 
 tree, not twenty yards from where I must have been 
 standing. I found my rifle-pit again, after some 
 trouble got my gun and waterproof-sheet, and re- 
 turned to the douar, where the Arabs made a bush- 
 fire, at which I dried my clothes. I then mounted 
 my horse and rode down to Ain Mokra, and, the 
 weather having cleared up, strolled along the edge of 
 the lake, and killed twelve and a half couple of snipe, 
 of which I lost four couple in the rushes for want of 
 a dog. Found two of the party had killed fifty- two
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 449 
 
 head of small game in my absence, viz., snipe, duck, 
 hares, and partridge. 
 
 Thursday, 25th. — Got up rather feveri.sh, bones 
 aching, and unfit for work. Two of the party went 
 
 with Monsieiu' D , a French officer, after hog. 
 
 They saw two, but could not get a shot. Killed 
 twenty-two head of small game, and a mungoose, 
 or ratton. 
 
 One of the party (Mr C ) fired at a panther 
 
 with small shot as it was skulking through the 
 bushes. 
 
 Fnday, 2Gth. — At three p.m. an Arab came from 
 the douar of the " caid" (chief) of the Lachdar tribe 
 with the news that a lion had carried off a cow in 
 the night, and begging me to come at once. Ac- 
 companied by Mr B , I mounted my horse and 
 
 galloped off towards the place, and as we were go- 
 ing along the main road, at about four miles from 
 Ain Mokra, we met a man and a woman, with the 
 utmost fright depicted on their countenances, who 
 told us that they had just seen a lion cross the 
 road. On examination of the ground his pugs were 
 distinctly visible, and we tracked them on horse- 
 back for some distance, until the sun had nearly 
 gone down. 
 
 We then made the best of our time to get to the 
 douar, where the caid received us very hospitably, 
 and offered us food, which we declined, as we had 
 already dined. 
 
 We had not been more than half an hoiir in the 
 
 2 F
 
 450 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 encampment when the roar of a lion was distinctly 
 heard, and shortly afterwards we heard another 
 answering in the distance. 
 
 The caid sent his French servant and two Arabs 
 with us to a small clearing near the douar, where, 
 he said, the lion had been seen prowling about for 
 three nights previous. 
 
 On arrival we found two Arabs posted in a tree 
 for the chance of a shot, should the lion make his 
 appearance. As we imagined that they might 
 "make game" of us in the dark, we ordered them 
 down and sent them back with the French servant 
 and the other Arab to the douar. We then care- 
 fully reconnoitred the ground, and took up our post 
 behind a bush in the centre of the plain, from 
 whence we could see all around. The moon was 
 rising fast, and the night was beautifully fine, and 
 almost as light as day. We heard a lion and 
 lioness roaring near, and at times a third answering 
 in the distance. 
 
 We remained until nearly eleven p.m., waiting 
 impatiently for his appearance, but he did not 
 come. 
 
 A lynx was crying close to us, and a pack of 
 jackals twice rushed howling across the clearing, 
 but the lion was still far off as ever, as we could tell 
 from his voice. 
 
 His roar seemed to come from a low and densely- 
 wooded hill about half a mile's distance. We held 
 a short consultation, and agreed to follow up by the
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 451 
 
 sound of his voice, and after a good deal of scram- 
 bling through the wood we got to another small 
 plain, where we waited until we heard him roar. 
 There was a continual barking of dogs and lowing 
 of cattle from the Arab douars, and at times we 
 heard the distant discharge of firearms. I noticed 
 the lion roared immediately after a donkey brayed 
 or a bull made a louder noise than usual. We 
 listened attentively for the roar, and then made our 
 way as quietly as possible towards the spot from 
 whence we imagined it to proceed. At last we 
 came pretty near, as his breathing and grunting 
 were distinctly heard, and the lioness was moaning 
 in a rather higher key. A dense wood was before 
 us, and they seemed about fifty paces distant. I 
 put fresh caps on my rifle, slung my gun over 
 my left shoulder, and crept forward as noiselessly 
 as possible to the place where I thought the lions 
 were lying. Their grunting seemed to proceed from 
 behind a large bush some ten paces distant, and 
 
 once both Mr B and myself thought we could 
 
 perceive a pair of eyes. I stole forward, making as 
 little noise as possible, but could perceive nothing. 
 I dropped my rifle into the hollow of my arm and 
 picked up a large stone, which I threw into the bush, 
 where I was pretty certain he was, fully expecting 
 him to bound out and give one of us a shot. 
 
 The stone fell with a crash in the bush ; a low 
 growl and a rustling were heard, but nothing ap 
 peared, and, after waiting about a quarter of an
 
 452 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 hour near the place, we had the mortification of 
 hearing him roar about half a mile away. The 
 brute had stolen off like a cur. 
 
 Again and again did we follow him up, but he 
 always got wind of us, and bolted without giving us 
 the chance of a shot. At last, after much difficulty, 
 we got close to him once more ; and this time we 
 thought he seemed inclined to show fight, for we 
 heard him growling in a most savage manner from 
 some deep cover at the bottom of a ravine. I 
 posted Mr B on a small eminence, which com- 
 manded a view on all sides, and then crept forward 
 as noiselessly as possible to try and cut off his 
 retreat. Whilst so doing, the lioness came to re- 
 join the lion, (whose growling must have been a 
 summons for her attendance,) and I caught a 
 glimpse of her as she was bounding through the 
 bushes, and could have fired a snap shot, (which I 
 wish now I had done), but that I wanted to bag 
 the lion, which the Arabs said was a large one, 
 with a fine black mane. 
 
 I crawled on my hands and knees for some time, 
 until I came to the edge of a steep chasm, about 
 ten feet deep, at the bottom of which was dense 
 cover. There I remained for nearly ten minutes 
 listening to the noise, which appeared to come from 
 some thick bush, behind which, when the clouds 
 rolled away from the face of the moon, I could per- 
 ceive a dark body, in which at times I thought I 
 saw a slight movement. I watched for some time.
 
 OP THE OLD WOKLD. 453 
 
 but could see nothing, though the growling was still 
 heard now and again; and at times I fancied I 
 saw something stirring. I drew my pistol, and 
 fired a double shot at what I thought was the body 
 of the lion, in order to make him show face ; a loud 
 growl followed, we heard a crashing among the 
 underwood, and the brute had stolen away without 
 showing fight, for in about ten minutes we heard 
 him roar about half a mile off. 
 
 The moon now became overclouded, and our 
 chance was up for the time, so we returned to the 
 douar, where the caid had prepared a tent for us, 
 in which we slept very comfortably rolled up in our 
 blankets. 
 
 The third lion was heard roaring in the distance, 
 as he lurked round a neighbouring douar. 
 
 Saturday, 27th. — The caid sent us a substantial 
 breakfast, which consisted of hard-boiled eggs, hot 
 gallets, made of fine white flour, milk, butter, and 
 a huge dish of " kouskous," the staple food of the 
 Arabs, which is made of wheaten flour, damped and 
 rolled into small grains like millet-seeds, which are 
 afterwards dried, and boiled up with mutton and 
 fowl, or with milk and sugar. Strolled about the 
 jungle all day, visiting the trail of the lions we had 
 been after in the night. The pugs of the lion were 
 nearly eighteen inches in circumference, those of 
 the lioness about fourteen. The jungle in this part 
 of the country is chiefly composed of a beautiful 
 heather, (now in flower,) the myrtle, of which tlie
 
 454 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 Arabs eat the berries, (now ripe,) the laburnum, (in 
 flower,) and several kinds of thorny shrubs, one of 
 which bears a yellow flower, and is called by the 
 French " Jaune d'Espagne." 
 
 There is no large timber: cork-trees, few of 
 which are more than a foot in diameter, are the 
 most common. 
 
 The Arab who lost his cow the night before our 
 arrival came to us with a doleful story, saying that 
 he was a poor man, and that his brother would 
 make him pay for it, if he did not kill the lion, as 
 it was his turn to watch the cattle on that night. 
 
 His real name is Taib, but Mr B christened 
 
 him " Corbeau," (on account of our having found 
 him perched in a tree last night,) and the Arabs 
 have confirmed the cognomen. 
 
 During the next fortnight we had a good deal of 
 wet weather, and did little but shoot small game, of 
 which we killed heavy bags. Nothing more was 
 heard about the lions, and although we daily took 
 long walks in the most likely places, we saw no 
 fresh tracks. 
 
 Wednesday, 10th March. — Had a consulation as 
 to our future proceedings, at which it was deter- 
 mined to start at once for Constantine, and from 
 thence towards the southward, via, Melila, Bathna, 
 and Biscara, should the weather permit. Engaged 
 a diligence, said to be capable of containing twenty- 
 three passengers, for our party, and made arrange- 
 ments to start at six A.M. on Friday morning.
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 455 
 
 Visited the Circle des OJficeurs, an establishment of 
 recent date, most delightfully situated on the crest 
 of a hill overlooking the sea, containing a reading- 
 room well supplied with French newspapers and 
 periodicals, a tolerably well-stocked library, and a 
 Buvette, where ecarte, piquet, and whist, well 
 moistened with vermuth and absinth, seemed to be 
 the order of the day. Our party were made honor- 
 ary members of the establishment, and experienced 
 the greatest hospitality and kindness from the French 
 officers. 
 
 Some Roman antiquities are to be seen in the 
 environs of Philippcville , the cisterns at Stora are 
 worthy of a visit; and every now and then one 
 meets with a column or block of marble which 
 bears traces of the sculptor's hand. 
 
 Some short time ago, in excavating the founda- 
 tion of a house in the main street, a marble statue 
 of the Emperor Vespasian was found, beautifully 
 carved, and well proportioned, but, unfortunately, 
 one arm is broken, and the face is partially dis- 
 figured ; otherwise it is in a very good state oi 
 preservation, and forms a conspicuous object in the 
 Grande Place, opposite the church. 
 
 Thursday, llth. — M. Lapasset, Lieut.-Col. d'Etat 
 Major, commanding the subdivision of Philippc- 
 ville, called after breakfast, and offered our party 
 every assistance to facilitate our departure on our 
 journey southward ; indeed, his kind advice, and 
 that of Captain Cousin, Chef du Bureau Arabe,
 
 456 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 and Monsieur le Commandant Lebarte, of the 71st 
 regiment of the line, were of the most material ser- 
 vice. 
 
 Took a box at the theatre for a ball given by the 
 town for the benefit of the poor, where we spent a 
 very agreeable evening. I counted forty-nine ladies 
 who danced, besides many others in the boxes. Ob- 
 served that crinoline has not gone down in Algeria, 
 whatever it may have done in Paris. 
 
 Friday, 12tJi. — At six a.m. " our trap," if I may 
 so call the clumsy, rumbling, creaking vehicle which 
 came rolling down the street like a ship in a storm, 
 groaning as if it was aware of the rough treatment 
 it would receive before arrival at Constantine ; and 
 at seven our goods and chattels were hoisted on the 
 top, our vivandiere stowed in the coupe, and our- 
 selves snugly packed outside and in. Too-too-too ! 
 went a hunting-horn, crack went the whip, round 
 went the wheels, and our seven horses set off at a 
 hand-gallop, which lasted for a few hundred yards 
 past the barrier gates, when their pace sunk by 
 degrees into a shuffling walk , and at about four 
 miles from the town we were brought to a stand- 
 still, the ruts being nearly two feet deep. Our 
 driver, the queerest fish for a son of Jehu that ever 
 mounted a box, did not appear in the least discon- 
 certed : he flung down the ribbons, and, coolly dis- 
 mounting from his seat, opened a boot and took out a 
 quantity of pickaxes and spades, which he distributed 
 among the passengers, all of whom were expected to
 
 OF THE OLD '^ORLD. 457 
 
 try their hands at road-making. Some gatliered 
 stones from the wayside to till up the ruts, others 
 dui,^ up the road so as to make it as level as pos- 
 sible ; and at last, with the assistance of eight extra 
 mules, making a team of fifteen in all, and the com- 
 bined force of our whole party pushing and pulling, 
 amid the shouts, oaths, prayers, protestations, groans, 
 yells, and frantic shrieks of our conductor and driver, 
 we managed to extricate the wheels, and were once 
 more en route. The passengers were, however, 
 obliged to walk in many places ; and some of them 
 accomplished many miles on foot, to avoid, the dis- 
 agreeable jolting of our unwieldy machine. 
 
 We passed through a most beautiful country, the 
 road winding amongst well- wooded hills, to St 
 Charles, a small fortified village about fifteen miles 
 from Philippeville, on the confluence of the rivers 
 Saf-Saf and Oued Zerga. 
 
 Our driver assured us that lions were very numer- 
 ous in this part of the country, that on two occa- 
 sions within the last month he had fallen in with 
 them on the road during the night, and once one 
 followed the diligence for three miles, to the great 
 consternation of the horses and passengers. Leav- 
 ing St Charles we passed through the villages of 
 Gastonville and El Arrouch, where we changed, 
 horses ; and about one P.M. we arrived at El Kan- 
 tour, (the Gap,) where we dined. 
 
 Should the proposed railway be constructed be- 
 tween Philippeville and Constantine, the cost be-
 
 458 THE HU?rTING GROUNDS 
 
 tween El Arrouch and El Kantour will be something 
 enormous, ou account of the fearful cuttings, ex- 
 cavations, and tunnellings that will have to be made. 
 The winding of the road round the ravines and hills 
 makes the distance more than three times that by 
 which the crow flies, and even then some of the 
 heights are very steep, so that we had to get out 
 and walk, as the horses could not pull us up. 
 
 The aspect of the country completely changes 
 after passing El Kantour. The hills are bleak and 
 rocky, and there is no wood to be seen. We passed 
 a few roadside inns and cabarets en route, but the 
 country appeared thinly populated until we arrived 
 within a few miles from Constantine, where we saw 
 a few ill-cultivated farms and gardens, in some of 
 which we noticed a few date-palms for the first 
 time. 
 
 The ascent leading to the ancient capital of the 
 Numidian kings is very steep, and it was dark be- 
 fore we passed through the Port de la Breche and 
 pulled up at the Bureau des Diligences, where we 
 were evidently expected, for we were immediately 
 surrounded by touters and agents from all the dif- 
 ferent hotels, who annoyed us so much by pulling 
 about our luggage, poking cards in our faces, 
 quarrelling, fighting, and abusing each other, that 
 we were obliged, in self-defence, to keep them at 
 a distance with the drivers' whips. 
 
 We put up at the Hotel des Colonies, a new build- 
 in or on " La Place," where we found tolerably clean
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 459 
 
 rooms, but a very poor supper, after having par- 
 taken of which we "turned in," being extremely 
 tired and shaken with our journey. 
 
 Saturday, 13th. — When we got up this morning 
 we were most disagreeably surprised to find that a 
 complete change had taken place in the weather, 
 frost having set in during the night ; and the wind 
 was bitterly cold and raw, though yesterday in 
 the plains we had experienced the heat of summer 
 in England. Towards noon the sun came out, and 
 we walked about the town, which is most curiously 
 placed on a perpendicularly-scarped height, which is 
 divided from another mountain by a steep chasm or 
 ravine about fifty yards broad and two hundred feet 
 in depth, at the bottom of which flows the river 
 Oued el Eummel, (the Eiver of Sand.) 
 
 An old Roman stone-bridge, of two rows of arches, 
 formerly connected the town with the surrounding 
 country ; but it was carried away a short time ago, 
 having stood for centuries, and the funds of the 
 town not being in a sufficiently flourishing state to 
 repair it, the soldiers have constructed a kind of 
 steep winding road down the sides of the ravine, 
 which enters the town at the ancient gateway El 
 Kantara, (of the Bridge.) There are two other gates, 
 one the Port de la Breche, by which we entered, 
 and the other a small postern, leading down into 
 the ravine by a steep path, impassable for car- 
 riages. 
 
 The town is surrounded by an old ^Moorish ere-
 
 460 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 nated wall, which bears the unmistakable marks of 
 the French cannon when they took the place. The 
 streets are extremely narrow, dirty, and badly paved, 
 and the houses ill built, with flat roofs, much re- 
 sembling those of the worst parts of the suburbs of 
 Stamboul. The French have constructed a hand- 
 some fortified barracks, called La Casbah, and 
 several cafes and shops : otherwise Constantine is 
 but little changed, and much resembles a third-rate 
 town in Turkey ; and, although the second capital 
 of Algeria, would be considered but a paltry village 
 were it in India, 
 
 The evening wet and raw. Sat round a wood-fire 
 in the hotel with much pleasure. 
 
 Sunday, \Uh. — The weather cold and disagree- 
 able ; snow and rain falling all day. 
 
 Called on General Gastu, the Commandant of 
 the Division of Constantine, who Kves in the old 
 Moorish palace formerly belonging to the Bey of 
 Constantine. 
 
 It is a low irregular building, having a courtyard 
 in the centre, with an oriental verandah all round, 
 supported by small columns of very fine marble of 
 different colours. It is, however, altogether but a 
 poor specimen of Moorish architecture. 
 
 In the courtyard the General has some fine speci- 
 mens of ostriches and gazelles, from the deserts near 
 Biscara, which latter much resemble our Indian 
 antelope in form, except that they have not such 
 fine horns.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 401 
 
 In the evening some of our party attended a 
 hal masque, where they were much amused l)y the 
 diversity of costume. 
 
 Monday, loth. — The weather wet and disagree- 
 able ; remained in the hotel the greater part of the 
 day, Keceived an invitation to a ball given by the 
 General at the palace. Visited the house of M. 
 Jules Gt^rard, the lion-slayer, one room of which 
 is very curiously painted in the oriental style, with 
 Arabic inscriptions and devices; and were shown 
 the arms of honour presented to him by the ex- 
 royal family of France, the Emperor of Austria, and 
 divers sheiks and Arab chiefs, by whom he is much 
 beloved and esteemed, not only for his coolness 
 and address in lion-hunting, but also on account 
 of his knowledge of the Mussulman character, and 
 his familiarity with their language, habits, and 
 customs. 
 
 His kindness, integrity, and anxious solicitude for 
 their welfare, whilst employed in the Bureau Arabe, 
 were very justly appreciated by the sons of Ishmael; 
 and in the goorbis of the douars a stranger is often 
 interrogated as to the happiness of the " conqueror 
 of the lion," and as to his probable return. 
 
 Tuesday, IQth. — The weather still unpropitious ; 
 snow and sleet falling in the morning. It, however, 
 cleared up a little in the afternoon, and we visited 
 the tomb of the old Eoman banker, which was dis- 
 covered some short time ago to the left of the Port 
 de la Breche, by the side of the scarp.
 
 462 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 The tomb consists of two stories, the lower about 
 ten feet below the surface of the ground, and is in 
 the form of a square, which is covered with some 
 very fine tesselated pavement, in very good preser- 
 vation, with arched vaults all round, containing 
 bones. On a huge stone slab, which had covered a 
 coffin, with much difficulty I copied the following 
 inscription, which was not an easy task, there bemg 
 no division between the words : — * 
 
 aiCEGOQ\TTACEOVEESIBVSMEA-|-)-TADEMONSTIlOLVCEMCLARArRVI 
 
 TVSITTEMP0RASVTiaIAPRiECrLIVSCIKTENSILAEEABGE2JTARI 
 
 AMLXIBVIABTEMTyDlSlIJMEMIRArV'II^EMPERErVERrrASOMNISOM 
 
 KIBVSCOMMVNISEGOECVliraoaiSERTVSVBIOVHUTVSrVXVillASEMPERrRVrrTSCTM 
 
 CAKISAMICISTAl-iaiPOSTOEBITVMDOMINAEVALEIlIAENONINVENIPVTIICiEVrrAMCVNPOTVI 
 
 GEATAMHABVICVSCOSlVGESANCTAMNATALESHONESTEMEOSCElfTVMCELEERAVlFELICES 
 
 ADVianTPOSTF.EMADlESVTSPFjmXSlTV^rNAlJIA5IEMPP.ARELIQrAlTlTV10SQVOSLEGESVIVVSMEK 
 
 M0RTIPARAVTV■01fyI-H'T+F0RTrNAMK0^-AMaEDESEKVr^IP3ASE0TI^^ITAIJSE^C^'0SE-(-0RE•CT0VE^•rrAB— 
 
 After a sojourn of a week at Constantine, a letter 
 was received from M. Jules Gerard stating that he 
 
 * The Rev. Mr Blakesley, who visited the tomb some months 
 after us, being a first-rate classical scholar, was able to make 
 out the epitaph, notwithstanding the numerous mistakes of the 
 stone-cutter. It should have been :— " Hie ego qui taceo ver- 
 sibus mea fata demonstro, lucem claram fruitus et tempora 
 sumana. Pr^cilius, Cirtensi Lare, argentariam exhibui artem. 
 Fides in me mira fuit semper et Veritas omnis omnibus com- 
 munis. Ego cui non misertus ubique ? Risus luxuriam semper 
 fruitus cum caris amicis, talem post obitum Dominse Valeriae 
 non inveni. Pudice vitam cum potui gi-atam habui cum conjuge 
 sancta. Natales honestse meos centum celebravi felices. At 
 venit postrema dies ut spiritus inania membra relinquat. 
 Titulos quos legis, vivus mese morti paravi ut voluit Fortuna. 
 Nunquam me deseruit ipsa. Sequimini tales : hinc vos exspecto. 
 Venite."
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 463 
 
 would not be able to join our expedition, as he could 
 not get an extension of his leave of absence, so, 
 the weather still continuinf^ extremely unpropitious 
 for shooting excursions, we resolved to go about and 
 see as much of the country as we could, and I believe 
 we were all highly satisfied with our trip, feel- 
 ina- convinced that Algeria is a splendid field either 
 for the sportsman, the tourist, or the invalid. 
 
 The probable expenses of a trip will be as fol- 
 lows: — Travelling expenses (first-class throughout) 
 from London, £20 ; hotel expenses for three months, 
 £60 ; hunting expenses, comprising beaters, track- 
 ers, horse hire, boat hire, (for wildfowl on the lakes,) 
 and sundries, £20 : probable total of expenditure 
 for three months' sport, £100. The probable addi- 
 tional expense with a servant Avill be rather more 
 than one-third of the above, say £40. I need hardly 
 observe that this does not include the items Cha- 
 teau Margot or Lafitte ; but each can make his own 
 arrangements, so as to suit his inclination or his 
 means. 
 
 The sportsman need only carry his arms, ammuni- 
 tion, and personal baggage. He will find everything 
 else he requires in Algeria. 
 
 Small game of all kinds is to be found at a very 
 short distance from the town, so that the sportsman 
 need not go farther daily than ten miles, (or even 
 less,) returning to sleep at the hotel. In order to 
 shoot at greater distances, he should provide himself 
 with a tent, if he wishes to do the thing comfortably.
 
 464) the hunting grounds 
 
 Large Game. 
 
 The following animals are to be met with in this 
 part : — The lion, the panther, the wild-boar, deer, 
 antelope, and the jungle-sheep ; also a kind of 
 mountain-deer. 
 
 The Lion. — The best manner of pursuing this 
 sport is by tracking his footprints to his lair, and 
 killing him when he charges. The Arabs are fair 
 trackers, and will conduct the sportsman to his 
 usual haunts. Then everything depends on the 
 hunter's own steadiness, shooting, and the goodness 
 of his arms. 
 
 The Panther. — This animal may be killed by 
 tracking, or hunted with dogs, that attract its at- 
 tention and give the sportsman opportunities of 
 taking fair aim. 
 
 The ^Vild-hoar is found in great abundance. Ten 
 hunters, accompanied by people who know the coun- 
 try, may kill fifty in a day. Alone, they may not 
 see a tusk in a week. The boar avoids the neigh- 
 bourhood of the lion and panther. Hog-hunting 
 is followed in this country either by tracking, or 
 with greyhounds, on horseback, or by beating. It 
 remains for the English sportsman to ride down 
 the gray boar, spear in hand, as is done in India. 
 Hog are to be found close to the town ; they even 
 sometimes enter the gardens during the night. 
 
 Deer are to be found of various kinds , they are 
 best killed by stalking.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 465 
 
 Antelope and Jungle-sheep are killed either by 
 stalking or forming a battue. 
 
 The Mountain-deer is found in the mountainous 
 districts only, and is killed in the same way as the 
 chamois, which it very much resembles in its habits. 
 
 Small game is very abundant throughout the 
 country, and consists of red-partridge, hares, jungle- 
 fowl, (poule de Carthage,) bustard, and quail, which 
 are to be found in great quantities. On the lakes 
 all kinds of water- fowl are to be found, from the 
 duck to the swan; besides which, woodcock and 
 snipe are very numerous in the season. The sports- 
 man may fill a cart with waterfowl ; it is only a ques- 
 tion of how much ammunition he has got with him. 
 
 The abundance of game in this country is very 
 easily accounted for. In the first place, the inhab- 
 itants — the Arabs — shoot little or nothing, and the 
 French in Algeria do as the Arabs ; so that all kinds 
 of game, large and small, live in a state of undis- 
 turbed peace, and multiply accordingly. 
 
 Large game, such as lions and panthers, have 
 been driven into the wildest part of the country by 
 the advance of civilisation, and the sportsman may 
 lose much time in finding out their haunts, if not 
 accompanied by those initiated. M. Jules Gdrard 
 spent upwards of six hundred nights in the forest 
 before he killed his twenty-sixth lion ; so whoever 
 would tread in his footsteps should not be dis- 
 couraged by want of success in the first instance. 
 
 2 G
 
 PART IV. 
 
 PRACTICAL HINTS ON FIREARMS 
 AND THEIR USE. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 The advantages of breecli-loadiug guns and rifles. — The different 
 systems. — Advice on purchasing firearms. — The theory of rifle 
 practice. — Aiming, position, judging distance, and practical 
 hints on shooting. — On the colour of sportsmen's dress. — 
 Table of experiments with targets. 
 
 At a time when cannou and rifles form the subject 
 of so much discussion and conversation in every 
 circle, it were well if sportsmen would give some 
 consideration to the breech -loading system, as 
 adapted to sporting-arms. Cannon and small-arms 
 are both in a transition state, and in the course of 
 a few years we may expect to see great changes in
 
 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS, ETC. 4G7 
 
 the armament of our land and naval forces, for Sir 
 William Armstrong and Mr Whitwortb, of Man- 
 cliester, have satisfactorily proved that rifled cannon 
 on the breech-loading system exceed all others iu 
 length of range, jwwer of penetration, and accuracy 
 of fire ; and all our first-class guumakers — amongst 
 whom I may enumerate Purdey, Lancaster, Lang, 
 Westley Eichards, Boss, ]\Ioore, Terry, Needham, 
 Whittou and Daw, and Leetch — are manufacturing 
 small-arms (both guns and rifles) that load at the 
 breech, of one description or another, Lancaster, 
 Westley Richards, Terry, and Leetch have peculiar 
 systems of their own invention, but most of the 
 others have adopted that of La Faucheux, which, 
 although it has been invented for upwards of five- 
 and-twenty years, was very little known in this 
 country until that excellent shot and practical me- 
 chanic Mr Lang, of "Old Red House" notoriety, 
 took it up ; and it is to him that we are indebted 
 for the efficient carrying out and improvement of a 
 principle, which is almost as great an era in gun- 
 making as the invention of the copper cap. 
 
 The following are some of the great advantages 
 that the new system has over the old for fowling- 
 pieces. 
 
 I shall begin with the extreme facility and quick- 
 ness in the loading, whereby any person armed with 
 a breech-loader can load and fire at least six shots 
 in the same time that another with a common gun 
 takes to load and fire two, with much greater com'
 
 4G8 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 parative safety, as with a breech-loader the muzzle 
 of the gun can never by any chance be directed to- 
 wards the person of the loader ; no mistake can be 
 made, such as putting two charges of powder or 
 shot into one barrel ; there is no chance of losing a 
 hand by pouring powder from a flask down the 
 muzzle of a gun recently discharged, in which, per- 
 haps, a bit of lighted tow, or, what is oftener the 
 case, a small piece of cork (got among the powder 
 in opening the canister) may remain — an accident 
 which may happen to the most careful sportsman. 
 Again, one is always enabled to see clearly through 
 the barrels, and can be certain that no dirt or ob- 
 struction has got in, which is a great advantage, as 
 many people have been injured by guns bursting 
 from the muzzle being accidentally plugged up with 
 clay, which may have got in whilst jumping a ditch, 
 climbing over a fence, or stumbling in an uneven 
 turnip-field. The sportsman can never meet with 
 an accident by loading one barrel whilst the other 
 is on full-cock, which the ramming down of a wad 
 or the catching of a twig might cause to go ofi"; and 
 when game is abundant, in the hurry of reloading 
 or the excitement of the moment, accidents from 
 this cause frequently occur : also there is no danger 
 of an unlucky cap flying and endangering the eye- 
 sight — not a very uncommon occurrence. 
 
 As to the pleasantness of shooting, both to self 
 and company, there can be no doubt ; for what an 
 advantage it is for sportsmen, when beating country,
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 4G9 
 
 to be able to load without haltinf;; or breaking the 
 line, and making all the rest of the company wait 
 until the operation is finislied. Who has not been 
 put off his shooting by having to wait whilst some 
 nervous, fidgety old gentleman hunts in a dozen 
 different pockets to find his powder-flask, wadding, 
 shot-bag, and caps, which are all dispensed with by 
 using a breech-loader? What an advantage it is, 
 when shooting in fens or swamps, to be able to load 
 without putting the butt of your gun in the mud or 
 water, whereby you soil your clothes when you put 
 it up to the shoulder and make yourself uncomfort- 
 able for the rest of the day. Also, what sportsman, 
 after a heavy day's shooting, has not found his 
 hands blackened and sticky from exploded gun- 
 powder, and sometimes raw and blistered from con- 
 stantly ramming down the charge? And in cold 
 weather who has not found loading with a common 
 gun, and putting on the caps, distress him beyond 
 measure, more especially if he has been obliged to 
 pull oft" his warm gloves before he is able to effect 
 it at last ? 
 
 Another great advantage is to be able to change 
 the charge in a moment, according to the game to 
 be met with, instead of the old tedious method of 
 drawing the shot with the screw of the ramrod ; and 
 also to be able to load without noise, as, when game 
 is plentiful, the noise of ramming down an obstinate 
 wad frequently puts up birds on all sides. 
 
 A sportsman armed with a breech-loader can re-
 
 470 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 load almost as soon as a keeper can hand him a 
 second gun and receive the one discharged, which 
 does away with the necessity of having a man at 
 one's heels with a loaded gun — an objectionable 
 practice, as a trip or stumble might so easily occa- 
 sion an accident. 
 
 Breech-loaders foul very little, as the thick elastic 
 mercurial waddings which enter the breech are fully 
 a size larger than the bore of the muzzle ; conse- 
 quently, being forcibly driven through the barrel 
 with the force of the powder, each discharge carries 
 away any refuse or accumulation that may have 
 been left by the one previous, and at the end of a 
 long day's shooting the barrel is just as free from 
 foulness as at the beginning ; also, the explosion of 
 the charge does not take place in the breech, but 
 in the paper cartridge, which comes out uninjured, 
 containing the d^hris ol the burnt powder, which 
 in the ordinary gun is driven into the chamber 
 and nipple every time it is reloaded, until the 
 latter becomes clogged up, and miss-fires are the 
 consequence. 
 
 The ease of cleaning is also very apparent, for 
 nothing is required but the passing of a little tow 
 through the barrel once or twice, and afterwards 
 wiping with an oiled rod ; whereas, with an ordi- 
 nary gun, the dirt is ■ forced in the breech and 
 through the nipple, and frequent washing out of 
 the barrels is required, which is never the case 
 with a breech-loader.
 
 OF THE OLD WOr.LD. 471 
 
 There is less recoil in a breech-loader than in a 
 muzzle-loader of the same size and weight, which I 
 account for by its construction rendering it neces- 
 sary to have more weight of metal at the breech ; 
 and also because at the bottom of the cartridge of 
 the breech-loader there is a tight roll of j^aper, about 
 one-eighth of an incli in thickness, which (like the 
 buffer of a railway carriage) gives with the action of 
 the powder and lessens the recoil. 
 
 After five years' experience with breech-loaders, 
 during which I have made a series of practical 
 experiments, I have come to the conclusion that 
 they shoot rather harder than ordinary muzzle- 
 loading guns ; and my way of accounting for this 
 fact is, that all luindarje is prevented, (l)y the wad- 
 ding used being a size larger than the bore ;) be- 
 sides which, I think they will hum more jJOiuder, 
 and of a larger grain than that in general use for 
 percussion-guns, which is stronger, because there 
 is more air that facilitates combustion between the 
 grains. I also consider that they shoot quicker, 
 because there is no long communication (the nipple) 
 between the point of ignition and the charge, the 
 explosion of the cap taking place in the centre of 
 the powder, which is inflamed almost simultane- 
 ously ; for it is an error to suppose that gunpowder 
 explodes instantaneously, as, however rapid its pro- 
 gress, it takes a certain time in travelling from the 
 first grain to the last. 
 
 The sportsman can easily make up his own car-
 
 472 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 tridges at tlie rate of about half a gross in an hour, 
 or, if he prefers it, he can purchase them all ready 
 from any gunmaker. 
 
 When all the advantages of the breech-loader are 
 contrasted with the known disadvantages of the 
 muzzle-loader, it is difficult to account for the pre- 
 judice that has existed against them for so many 
 years ; for, notwithstanding that the present system 
 was introduced by La Faucheux a quarter of a cen- 
 tury ago, it is only lately that it has come into 
 general use amongst sportsmen. Numerous objec- 
 tions have been urged against the system, but none 
 appear to have had any substantial foundation ; and 
 I shall not enter into them, although I am aware 
 that there are many sportsmen of the old school 
 who, from prejudice, will not even deign to give it 
 a trial : with them arguments and facts are both 
 equally lost. 
 
 In the pursuit of large game, breech-loading arms 
 are infinitely preferable ; for until the last few years 
 the hunter was always obliged, when waging war 
 with the denizens of the forest, to keep up a battery 
 of several guns and rifles, which, to say nothing of 
 the expense of the first outlay, and the continual 
 wear and tear, &c., was attended by several serious 
 disadvantages, some half-dozen of which I shall enu- 
 merate. In the first place, Two or three gun-bearers 
 are required to each sportsman, whose duty it is to 
 pass up the spare guns as fast as those in hand are 
 discharged : now it is a great disadvantage for a
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 473 
 
 hunter, when on trail or stalking, to have a number 
 of persons at his heels, on account of the extra noise 
 they must necessarily make in forcing their way 
 through cover, which often gives alarm to the game 
 and prevents him from getting a shot. Secondly, It 
 is a great drawback, when in the pursuit of some 
 dangerous animal, when a faux 'pas might [be at- 
 tended with fatal consequences, to have any other 
 than yourself to look after. Thirdly, It is not jjlea- 
 sant to have loaded firearms carried in the rear by 
 inexperienced hands, with whom an accident from 
 carelessness is as likely to occur as not. Fourthly, 
 It is not a comfortable feeling to have to depend 
 upon the coolness and courage of your followers ; 
 and many a sportsman has found himself in an awk- 
 ward position by his gun-bearers having been seized 
 with a panic, and bolted, leaving him, with both 
 barrels discharged, in the presence of a wounded 
 and infuriated animal, when nothing but some lucky 
 chance can prevent a catastrophe. Fifthly, It fre- 
 quently happens, in hunting in different parts of the 
 country, that the sportsman (if he does not keep in 
 his pay a shekar-gang of his own, which is expensive 
 work) has to intrust his spare guns to men of whom 
 he knows nothing, who may be tempted to decamp 
 with them — not a very unfrequent occurrence.* 
 Sixthly, It is a great annoyance to a tired sportsman, 
 after a hard day's fag, to have to clean four or five 
 
 * Lieutenant Rice, of the Bombay army, lost all Lis guns iu 
 this manner.
 
 474 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 double guns and rifles, which task he dare not in- 
 trust his followers to perform, as there are times 
 when a miss-fire might be attended with the most 
 serious consequences. Happily for the sportsman of 
 the present day, all these disagreeable contingencies 
 may now be avoided by making use of rifles on the 
 breech-loading system. Now, independent of gun- 
 bearers, he may roam through the forest alone, care- 
 less as to what animal he may meet, for he knows 
 that, should his first shots not take deadly eS'ect, he 
 can reload in the twinkling of an eye, and keep up a 
 running fire, against which nothing can stand, in- 
 stead of having to bolt under cover to reload, (in 
 case a spare gun is not at hand,) returning breath- 
 less, and often with unsteady hand, from having to 
 use sheer force in jamming an obstinate ball down a 
 foul barrel. When mounted, a rifle on the breech- 
 loading system has immense advantages, as it can 
 be easily reloaded, without in any way interfering 
 with the management of the horse ; whereas with 
 the old muzzle-loader the sportsman was entirely 
 powerless whilst drawing his ramrod and ramming 
 home the bullet. He who has once used a breech- 
 loading gun or rifle will no more think of going 
 back to a muzzle-loader, than the crack marksman 
 at Hythe would return to old " Brown Bess," 
 
 Lang's breech-loading rifles have either three or 
 four broad grooves, (I prefer the latter ;) and the 
 projectile used is of a cylindro-conical shape, very 
 similar to that used by General Jacobs, of the
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 475 
 
 Scinde Horse. With one of his double rifles, forty 
 bore, and 7?; lbs. in weight, a bull's-eye three inches 
 in diameter has been struck thii-teen times in eighteen 
 shots, at a hundred yards, firing right and left bar- 
 rels alternately, and the other shots were all within 
 four inches from the centre. At three hundred 
 yards, bullet after bullet was put in the area of a 
 foot square, which is almost as close shooting as can 
 be got out of a double rifle. For gi'cat precision at 
 long distances, single ones must be used; as in 
 every double rifle, where one sight has to serve, the 
 barrels must converge, consequently the lines of tra- 
 jectory must cross at some point, and although up 
 to five hundred yards the lateral deflection may not 
 be very material, they can never exhibit the precision 
 of single barrels at long distances. 
 
 Mr Westley Eichards, of Birmingham, has in- 
 vented a breech-loader that has been highly approved 
 of by the authorities, and it is a most excellent weapon 
 either for mihtary or sporting purposes, although 
 the system of Messrs Terry and Calisher has been 
 preferred ; for, by order of the Secretary of State 
 for War, a contract has been entered into with that 
 firm for the immediate supply of their carbines for 
 the use of several cavalry regiments. The T'tmes^ 
 speaking of its great advantages over the old system, 
 says : — " The Small-arms Committee have sub- 
 mitted the carbine to the severest tests, making a 
 most favourable report on its peculiar advantages, 
 and hence its adoption in the army. Only some
 
 476 THE HUNTING GEOUNDS 
 
 few months ago Terry's rifle was subjected to a 
 test by Captain Eichard Hewlett, of the Excellent 
 gunnery-ship, and one thousand eight hundred 
 rounds were fired without the carbine requiring to 
 be cleaned or missing fire. The same carbine was 
 tested on South Sea Common, by order of the 
 Lieutenant-Governor, Major-General the Hon. Sir 
 James Yorke Scarlett, and twenty-five rounds were 
 fired at three hundred yards' range from the butt ; 
 and the General himself made a centre hit. An 
 ofiicer on the ground, one of the instructors of 
 musketry, then took the instrument, and struck the 
 target afloat twice out of three times, at a distance 
 of one thousand and fifty yards ; yet the barrel is 
 but thirty inches in length." It is my opinion that 
 this rifle is one of the most serviceable weapons that 
 an Indian officer could possess, as it is a most for- 
 midable instrument, whether in the field, against an 
 enemy, or in the dense deep jungle, the haunts of 
 the tiger and the elephant. 
 
 Arms are still in a transition state, and it is yet a 
 matter of doubt as to which principle is the best. 
 From the numerous experiments I have made and 
 witnessed, I consider that, for accuracy of fire, 
 nothing equals the system of Mr Joseph Whitworth 
 of Manchester, his rifle with the hexagonal bore and 
 elongated projectile having " distanced " every other 
 at long ranges in a course of experimental trials 
 lately made at the School of Musketry at Hythe ; 
 besides which the trajectory is lower than any other
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 477 
 
 system. He uses a short barrel, having a hexag- 
 onal bore and a very quick turn ; for whereas the 
 Enfield rifle has only one turn in 6 feet G inches, 
 and therefore only half a turn in the barrel of the 
 Enfield, which is 3 feet 3 inches, he has a 4o-inch 
 bore, with one turn in twenty inches, which rotation 
 is sufiicient with a bullet of the requisite specific 
 gravity. Mr Whitworth has reached such a pitch 
 of accuracy, that in a shed excluded from the influ- 
 ence of wind, and firing from a beautifully-contrived 
 rest, at five hundred yards he can put any number 
 of consecutive balls within a space less than that 
 occupied by a five-shilling piece ; and it is said that 
 he will not be contented until he can throw a bullet 
 from the barrel of one rifle into the barrel of another 
 placed at five hundred yards' distance. His ordinary 
 rifles are guaranteed, in the hands of a good marks- 
 man, to be true at the same distance within eight 
 inches. When his rifle was tested at Hythe with a 
 Kegulation Enfield, the eflSciency of the one as com- 
 pared with the other was as twenty to one : Colonel 
 Wilford saying the Whitworth was better at eight 
 hundred yards than the Enfield at five hundred. 
 Beyond one thousand one hundred yards the Enfield 
 must cease firing even at large masses, while Whit- 
 worth's can do business at two thousand. Indeed, 
 rifling seems to be in its infancy, and range must 
 only cease with the power of the human eye to take 
 an aim. If Mr Whitworth applies his peculiar prin- 
 ciple of rifling and extreme accuracy of boring to
 
 478 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 a breech-loader, he will produce the most finished 
 weapon of the day. Next to the Whitworth I ap- 
 preciate the advantages that Mr Lancaster's eliptical 
 rifling has over other systems, as it gives excellent 
 practice, and, the bore being smooth, is not liable 
 to harbour rust or wear away. This rifle has given 
 admirable results, and has the great advantage of 
 not fouling nearly so easily as the Regulation and 
 other pieces, and also admits of being cleared far 
 more easily. 
 
 I shall conclude my remarks by observing that 
 the market in the present day is deluged with arms 
 that are made to sell, and not to shoot ; and the 
 public should be on their guard, so as not to allow 
 themselves to be taken in by spurious imitations ; 
 for there are unscrupulous vendors who do not hesi- 
 tate to engrave the names of first-class gunmakers 
 upon guns of inferior workmanship, and sell them 
 to the uninitiated as "bargains." Young sports- 
 men, in selecting a gun, should always go to a 
 maker of note, who, for the sake of his own credit 
 and reputation, would not allow an arm that is un- 
 sound, or of inferior workmanship, to leave his 
 establishment bearing his name, which, in first-class 
 work, is always engraved in full, with address. He 
 may have to pay a long figure in comparison with 
 the cost of the inferior article, and, perhaps, some- 
 thing for " the name ;" but he is sure of a good 
 w^eapon, which will prove far better worth the 
 money in the long run, and need not be appre-
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 479 
 
 hensive of accidents fioin defective workmanship 
 or unsound material. Inferior ftuns, " made to sell," 
 are now-a-days got up so well, that at first sight 
 they resemble A 1 guns of best material and first- 
 class workmanship; but the practical sportsman, on 
 taking them in hand, soon discovers the counterfeit. 
 There is no "music" in the locks ; the strength of 
 the mainsprings, as well as the pull of the triggers, 
 is unequal ; the barrels are imperfectly bored, or 
 rough and unpolished in the interior, and perhaps 
 the gauge shows that they are not of exactly the 
 same calibre. Again, the lock-plate and mountings 
 are not fitted and let in with that peculiar nicety 
 that distinguishes first-class London work ; and the 
 stock, in spite of a thick coat of French polish and 
 varnish, betrays "greenness" being made of un- 
 seasoned wood. I have seen some of these inferior 
 .guns throw shot pretty fairly to begin with, but 
 after a short time they invariably fall off, both in 
 their strength and regularity of shooting, become 
 shaky, and even dangerous ; for the locks (being 
 made of soft metal instead of the best tempered 
 steel) begin to wear, and are no longer to be de- 
 pended upon. It is a mistaken policy, and false 
 economy, to purchase any other than a first-class 
 gun, which, with ordinary care, will last longer 
 than half a dozen cheap ones of inferior workman- 
 ship, and give infinitely more satisfaction, to say 
 nothing of the great additional security against 
 accidents.
 
 480 THE HUNTING GEOTJNDS 
 
 Perhaps the following hints on rifle-shooting may 
 prove useful to those who have not had the benefit 
 of an efficient instructor. 
 
 Eiflemen are not made in a day, but it is an 
 established fact that any one gifted with perfect 
 vision can, with instruction and jyractice, become 
 an efficient marksman ; therefore, none should be 
 discouraged or despair, as perseverance must lead 
 to ultimate success. 
 
 First commencing with the theory of rifle prac- 
 tice, which must be fully understood before the 
 rifleman can hope to be an expert shot at all ranges, 
 I shall afterwards enter upon the 2>'^o,ctical part of 
 his initiation. 
 
 The first point for consideration is the barrel of 
 the rifle, which, (ia the Enfield pattern,) it may be 
 observed, has three spiral grooves cut in the interior, 
 or bore, at an equal distance from each other, of 
 even depth, and making half a turn in the length 
 of the barrel, which is three feet three inches. 
 These grooves, otherwise termed the rifling, give 
 the bullet (an elongated cylindro-conical projectile) 
 a spiral motion, sometimes called the spiii or tivist, 
 as it flies through the air, point foremost, rotatory 
 on its own axis. This very much increases the 
 accuracy of the flight of the bullet, as it serves to 
 keep it in its true course, and prevents any inclina- 
 tion it may have to deviate from it, owing to irregu- 
 larity in shape or weight. 
 
 The diameter of the bore of an Enfield rifle ip
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 481 
 
 •577, but that of the bullet is rather less, in order 
 to facilitate the loading. This difference in size — 
 i.e., the difference between the circumference of the 
 bullet and the bore — leaves a space between the 
 bullet and the bore, termed the windage, which 
 was the principal cause of the inefficiency of the 
 old " Brown Bess/' for two reasons : the first, be- 
 cause a great part of the explosive force, or gas 
 generated by the ignition of the powder, was lost, 
 as it escaped by the space between the bullet and 
 the side of the bore ; and, secondly, because this 
 irregular escape caused the ball to rebound from 
 side to side in the barrel, instead of passing evenly 
 through the bore, and the consequence of this was, 
 that it took an erratic impetus throughout its flight. 
 The Enfield bullet is, however, so constructed as 
 to do away with these objections. Although the 
 circumference is much less than that of the bore, so 
 as to enter the barrel easily in loading, all luindage 
 is effectually prevented, as in the base of the pro- 
 jectile is a hollow, into which is fitted a small wooden 
 cup, or plug, which, by the force of the explosion of 
 the charge, acts like a wedge.* and expands and 
 enlarges the lower part of the bullet, making it fit 
 the barrel tightly, and take the rifling, so that in its 
 passage through the barrel it is constrained to tuni 
 
 * This theory, although adopted by the School of [Musketry at 
 Hythe, is contradicted by several competent authorities ; and I 
 believe there is reason to doubt its accuracy. Vide Major John 
 Boucher's excellent work for the use of Volunteer Riflemen. 
 
 2ii
 
 482 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 with the grooves, and thus receives the spinning 
 movement on its longer axis, which not only ensures 
 accuracy of flight, but also always keeps its point 
 forward. By the bullet being thus expanded, and 
 so much enlarged as to fit the barrel and grooves 
 tightly, none of the explosive power of the gas en- 
 gendered by the ignition of the charge is allowed to 
 escape, but the whole propelling force acts upon the 
 projectile. There is also a much better chance of 
 the whole of the powder being burnt. 
 
 The barrel is a tube of iron, of which the sides of 
 the interior, or bore, are parallel, but those of the 
 exterior converge, it being necessary that the metal 
 of the breech-end should be very much thicker than 
 at the muzzle, towards which it gradually tapers, as 
 it has to stand the force of the explosion of the 
 charge. In consequence of this contraction, every 
 barrel has in itself a certain degree of elevation — 
 but of this more anon. 
 
 The axis of the barrel is an imaginary line drawn 
 through the centre of the bore, and parallel to the 
 interior sides. 
 
 The line of fire is the continuation of the axis in 
 a straight line, and marks the direction the bullet 
 would take on leaving the barrel, 'propelled hy the 
 explosion of the charge, were it not that it is also 
 acted upon by the power of gravity, which attracts 
 it towards the earth, and the resistance the air offers 
 to its passage, which is always in direct opposition 
 to its flight.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 483 
 
 The trajectory is tlie actual course of the bullet, 
 which always describes a curve — a fact easily ac- 
 counted for, as, from the moment it leaves the 
 muzzle, the force of the gunpowder drives it forward, 
 and gravity draws it downward, so that by yielding 
 to both forces — i.e., by moving onwards and down- 
 wards at the same time — it must travel in a curve 
 diverging more and more below the line of fire, 
 until at last, the propelling power being expended, 
 it falls to the earth. Hence it follows, that if the 
 axis of a barrel is directed upon the bull's-eye of 
 a target, at one hundred yards' distance, the bullet 
 will strike about one foot five inches below ; the 
 power of gravity naving made it deviate from the 
 line of fire, and drawn it towards the earth, one foot 
 and five inches, in a Hight of one hundred yards. 
 Therefore, if the barrel were as thick at the muzzle 
 as it is at the breech, it would be necessary to aim 
 one foot five inches above the mark in order to hit 
 it ; but this is not the case, for, as I have before 
 observed, every barrel has in itself a certain degree 
 of elevation, on account of the increased thickness 
 of metal at the breech-end. The Enfield rifle-barrel 
 has elevation in itself for about seventy-five yards. 
 The iwint-hlank range of a rifle is the distance 
 that it will throw a ball before grazing the ground, 
 the barrel being held with its axis parallel to the 
 ground at the height of four feet six inches above it. 
 The point-blank range of the Enfield rifle is about 
 two hundred paces.
 
 484 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 The line of sight, or aim, is an imaginary straight 
 line taken from the pupil of the eye through the 
 centre of the back-sight, along the top of the fore- 
 sight, to the object intended to be hit. The back- 
 sight is so arranged as to give the proper elevation 
 for different distances. The farther the object is 
 to be aimed at, the greater the elevation required ; 
 and this is given by raising the sliding bar of the 
 back-sight, which is marked with lines up to nine 
 hundred yards. 
 
 Accuracy of shooting is greatly dependent upon 
 the sights being carefully adjusted, and fitted exactly 
 parallel to the axis of the barrel. If the back-sight 
 Is too much inclined to the right, or the front-sight 
 too much to the left, the rifle will shoot to the right 
 of the mark aimed at ; in the same manner, if the 
 back-sight is placed too much to the left, or the 
 fore-sight too much to the right, the gun will carry 
 to the left ; and the greater the distance, the greater, 
 in proportion, will be the deviation. Every rifle, 
 therefore, ought to be carefully sighted and shot be- 
 fore it is placed in a novice's hands, as non-success in 
 practice on account of an ill-sighted weapon would 
 not be his fault, and might serve to discourage 
 him. 
 
 The mechanical routine necessary to be gone 
 through before the tyro can become an efficient 
 marksman consists of Aiming Drill, Position Drill, 
 Judging Distance Drill, and Practice in Firing. 
 
 Aiming Drill is necessary to familiarise the un-
 
 OF THE OLD WOKLD. 48o 
 
 initiated with the use of the sights, teaching him how 
 to " ali(jn " his rifle, or " aim " correctly at a mark. 
 The practice of this drill exercises the eye, strength- 
 ening and develojjing the sight in the same manner 
 that continued exertion increases the power of the 
 limbs. The following standard rules should be care- 
 fully observed : — 
 
 I. — The rifle should alivays he held luith the sifjhts 
 'perfectly uprigltt, as it is only in this position that 
 the line of sight, the line of fire, and trajectory, are 
 in the same vertical plane. If the butt of the rifle 
 is not held vertically, but is " canted " either to the 
 right or the left, so that the perpendicular of the 
 back-sight with the axis of the barrel is not pre- 
 served, the ball will strike to the rifi;ht if the siefht 
 inclines to the left, and vice versa ; and in firing at 
 long ranges, a very slight deviation in this respect 
 will cause a wide deflection. 
 
 II. — The " aim " or " line of sigJit " should be 
 taken along the centre of the notch of the back- 
 sight and the top of the fore-sight, which should 
 cover the centre of the object aimed at. 
 
 III. — The eye should be fixed steadfastly on the 
 mark aimed at, and not on the barrel or fore-sight, 
 which latter will be easily brought into the align- 
 ment if the eye is fixed as directed. 
 
 IV. — In aiming, the left eye should be closed. 
 Aiming drill is generally taught with a " traversing- 
 rest," or, if that is not at hand, a tripod with a 
 sandbag on the top, standing about four feet eight
 
 486 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 inches from the ground (or the average height of a 
 man's shoulder) will answer every purpose ; and the 
 novice is required to align his rifle with the proper 
 elevation upon objects at distances varying from fifty 
 to nine hundred yards. Each time he has aligned his 
 rifle he steps aside, in order that the instructor may 
 take his place and see if the aim be correct. This 
 practice should be continued until the novice has no 
 difiiculty in aligning his rifle on the bull's-eye at all 
 distances. Up to three hundred yards, the bull's-eye 
 is eight inches in diameter, and above that distance 
 two feet. 
 
 Position Drill is absolutely necessary to ensure 
 good practice at long ranges. It habituates the 
 novice to correct positions, and enables him to fire 
 steadily in all situations. It gives him a perfect 
 command over his weapon, and enables the eye and 
 hand to act together, so that the left hand raises the 
 rifle at once to bear upon the object, for the eye to 
 take aim ; and at the same moment the fore-finger 
 of the right hand acts upon the trigger. 
 
 To establish the natural connexion between the 
 eye and the hand, constant practice is required ; and 
 the novice should be accustomed Eo handle his rifle 
 both with and without the bayonet, being put through 
 all the motions of firing standing and kneeling, with 
 the same precision as if actually practising with ball- 
 cartridge. 
 
 At the School of Musketry at Hythe, recruits are 
 taught to fire standing at all distances up to three
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 487 
 
 hundred yards, and kneeling at every longer range. 
 The best position for taking a steady aim without 
 artificial appliances is by kneeling on the right knee 
 and sitting on the right heel, the rifle being firmly 
 grasped and steadied by the left hand, the left elbow 
 resting on the left knee so as to form a support. 
 
 Should the novice meet with any difficulty in aim- 
 ing correctly, the inspector should cause him to snap 
 caps at a lighted candle placed about a yard distant, 
 when, if the aim is properly directed, the candle will 
 be extinguished. The novice should be attentively 
 watched during this practice until all tendency to 
 wink or flinch is overcome, and his countenance 
 shows that he has become indifi'erent to the re- 
 port. 
 
 This practice is most excellent for forming 
 " marlcsmen," for besides saving ammunition, it 
 may be continually resorted to, even in a room, the 
 bull's-eye being a small black wafer on the wall at 
 one end and the stand taken at the other. By 
 snapping caps only the young beginner is enabled 
 to see whether the muzzle of the barrel wavers 
 when he presses the trigger, which he cannot pro- 
 perly ascertain when firing ball, on account of the 
 smoke of the discharge. The constant handlinjr of 
 the rifle in a proper manner, by aiming at various 
 objects at different distances, enables " the finger to 
 work in unison with the eye," and gives great 
 steadiness of position before, during, and after 
 pressing the trigger, which is all that is required in
 
 488 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 making good ball-practice at a target of wliicli the 
 distance is known. 
 
 Blank-Carteidge Firing. — Before the novice 
 be allowed to fire a baU, he should practise a certain 
 routine of blank-cartridge firing, in order to further 
 the same object for which he was exercised in snap- 
 ping caps, as well as to the " recoil " or " kick," 
 which is a backward motion caused by the force of 
 the explosion of the powder acting against the breech 
 of the barrel at the same time as against the bullet. 
 The force of the recoil depends upon the charge of 
 powder, the weight of the bullet, the weight of the 
 rifle, the windage, the rifling of the barrel, the bor- 
 ing of the barrel, (whether purely cylindrical or 
 otherwise,) the friction, and the foulness, which much 
 increases the resistance ofi"ered by the air to the 
 bullet passing up the barrel. The instructor should 
 impress upon the novice the necessity of pressing the 
 heel of the butt well and firmly into the hollow of 
 the shoulder, as the more confidently a man " stands 
 up" to his rifle, the less likelihood there is of ran- 
 dom shooting. 
 
 The position of the body, arms, and hands, and 
 the manner of pressing the trigger, as also the posi- 
 tion of the head when taking aim, are to be duly 
 watched both in this and the former exercise, in 
 order to discover and correct those errors which are 
 fatal to good shootino-, and which cannot be so sue- 
 cessfully corrected when firing ball. 
 
 Judging Distance Drill. — One of the greatest
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 489 
 
 essentials in a well-trained marksman is the capa- 
 bility to estimate distances correctly, as good 
 shooting cannot be made unless the distance is 
 previously ascertained and the proper elevation 
 given to the back-sight. At long ranges it requires 
 great practice to judge distance accurately ; but 
 there is always a ready method of ascertaining it 
 practically, by firing, and watching whether the 
 bullet strikes the ground over or under the object 
 aimed at. If over, he will lower the sliding bar of 
 the back-sight ; if under, he will raise it. Practice 
 over all kinds of ground is the best means of teach- 
 ing a novice how to judge distance correctly by the 
 eye, and any one possessing good vision may train 
 himself most effectually in this art for all practical 
 purposes. This, however, can only be accomplished 
 by continual practice and careful observation. 
 When engaged in ball-practice at a target placed at 
 known distances, the tyro should carefully notice the 
 apparent height of the markers at each range, remem- 
 bering that in fine clear weather objects standing in a 
 strong light will appear much nearer than they really 
 are, and vice versa in cloudy and damp weather. 
 
 At fifty yards, the features of a man may be 
 clearly identified, and his complexion, arms, ac- 
 coutrements, and dress distinctly perceived, the 
 buttons and the badge on his forage-cap being 
 distinguishable. At one hundred yards, the features 
 become indistinct, the buttons appear in a line, and 
 the badge can be only faintly discerned. At two
 
 490 THE HUNTING GROUNDS 
 
 hundred yards, the face appears like a whitish ball 
 under the line of the cap, and the buttons and badge 
 become invisible. These distances should constitute 
 the first practice , the second would embrace dis- 
 tances from two to four hundred yards; and the 
 third, from four hundred to one thousand yards or 
 more. At five hundred yards no features are visible, 
 and the head looks like a ball upon the shoulders, 
 the neck being hardly visible. 
 
 The instructor will desire the novice to mark the 
 size of the men at each distance, and point out any 
 difierence he may discern m their appearance. He 
 will also desire him to take notice of the position of 
 the sun, the character of the background, and the 
 state of the atmosphere at the time, in order that 
 he may be accustomed to their altered appearance 
 under different circumstances. 
 
 After some days' exercise in Judging Distance 
 Drill, the proficiency of the novice may be tested by 
 his being practised to judge the distance of objects 
 placed at unknown ranges. 
 
 Target Practice. — The novice having been 
 thoroughly instructed in "aiming" ^'position," and 
 "judging distance" drill, can commence "target 
 2)ractice," when his efiiciency will be tested. 
 
 The following hints may prove useful to the 
 novice : — 
 
 At the moment of p>'>^^ssing the trigger the act of 
 respiration should be suspended, to ensure greater 
 steadiness of aim.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 491 
 
 When once the aim is clearly taken, all delay in 
 pressing the trigger is prejudical to good shooting, 
 as, if the rifle is held at the " present" too long, a 
 " wavering'' of the muzzle takes place, and an un- 
 certain shot is the consequence. 
 
 In taking aim at a target, fix the eye steadfastly 
 on the bull's-eye, grasping the rifle firmly luith the 
 left hand " well forward," (according to its balance,) 
 the butt being pressed home into the hollow of the 
 shoulder ; the right hand, with the exception of the 
 forefinger, lightly clasping the small of the stock 
 behind the trigger-guard, so as to steady and pre- 
 serve the butt in a vertical position ; then, holding 
 the breath, place the forefinger well round the trigger, 
 feeling it lightly, and raise the muzzle gradually and 
 steadily until the fore-sight is seen through the centre 
 of the notch of the back-sight covering the centre of 
 the bull's-eye, when the motion should be arrested, 
 and the trigger simultaneously pressed without the 
 slightest jerk, the eye being rigidly fixed on the 
 object aimed at, and the whole of the body immobile. 
 
 The great " knack " in rifle-practice is to accustom 
 the hand and eye to work together, so that the trigger 
 be pressed simultaneously with the object being 
 " covered," as it is almost an impossibility to retain 
 an aim. 
 
 Care should be taken that the aim is not lost in 
 pressing the trigger, which, if the lock is well made, 
 should not " pull too strongly." 
 
 After the trigger is pressed — keeping the rifle to
 
 492 THE HUNTIXG GEOUNDS 
 
 the shoulder — a perfect immobility of body should 
 be retained, and the eye kept steadfastly upon the 
 object aimed at, and the deflection noted. 
 
 In aligning a rifle at a mark, the position of the 
 head with reference to the butt will vary according 
 to the range and the elevation required. At short 
 distances the shoulder is a little raised and the head 
 bent forward, (not sideways,) the cheek resting 
 against the small part of the butt, so that the 
 object aimed at is seen through the notch in the 
 back-sight. At longer ranges, the head must be 
 raised and the shoulder lowered ; and at the farthest 
 distances, if the stock of the rifle is too much bent, 
 the heel of the butt may rest against the breast or 
 side instead of the shoulder. As heavy firing in 
 this position is inconvenient, it is perhaps better 
 in this case to allow for the necessary elevation by 
 firing high, or aiming above the object intended to 
 be hit, as the recoil is often felt severely when the 
 heel of the butt only rests against the shoulder. 
 
 Careless loading is conducive to irregular firing. 
 The exact charge of powder that the rifle will burn 
 should be correctly ascertained and strictly adhered 
 to, for a little more or a little less will cause a 
 great vertical deviation in the flight of the bullet. 
 Care should be taken to keep the barrel upright 
 when pouring in the charge, so that the grains of 
 powder may not adhere to the sides of the barrel, 
 which would foul and impede the passage of the 
 bullet.
 
 OF THE OLD WOELD. 493 
 
 The bullet should not fit too loosely, nor yet be 
 so large as to require hammering, in order to force 
 it down, as in the former case it is liable " to strip," 
 (or pass out of the barrel without taking the rifling, 
 and gaining the spiral motion,) and in the latter 
 it will have ragged edges, which will cause it to 
 diverge from its true direction in its flight through 
 the air. 
 
 In pressing down the bullet, although great care 
 should be taken to drive it properly home, much 
 force should not be employed, as by ramming and 
 jamming with the ramrod the shape of the bullet 
 is altered and spoiled, which much affects its true 
 flight, and the powder is "mealed" and "caked," 
 by which the strength of the charge is much 
 diminished, as a certain amount of air is necessary 
 to ensure thorough combustion. 
 
 The base of the bullet should rest evenly upon 
 the powder, and its axis be in line with that of the 
 barrel. 
 
 For fine shooting, care should be taken that there 
 is no hidden defect in the bullet, for if any part be 
 hollow or imperfect, the centre of gravity will not 
 be in the line of the axis, and consequently there 
 will be a deviation in its flight. 
 
 I shall now notice the causes of irregular firing, 
 over which the rifleman can have no control, but 
 which may, to a certain extent, be rendered less 
 injurious to " the score," if the following observa- 
 tions are carefully attended to : —
 
 494' THE HUNTING grounds 
 
 First, the witid affects the flight of the bullet to 
 a considerable extent in firing at long distances, 
 diverting it from its true course, and accelerating 
 or retarding its progress according as it blows with 
 or against it. When the wind blows from a 
 quarter exactly o-pposiie to the direction of the 
 bullet, it experiences a greater resistance m its 
 flight, and accordingly more elevation should be 
 rriven. Should the wind blow exactly from the 
 shooter to the target, the resistance will be les^ 
 than ordinary, and consequently less elevation than 
 ordinary is required. Allowances should be made 
 according to the strength of the current of air. If 
 the wind blows from the right, aim to the right, as 
 the deflection will be to the left, and vice versa if 
 from the left. 
 
 If the course of the wind forms an angle to the 
 direction of the bullet, aim must be taken, and 
 allowances made accordingly. Thus, if the wind 
 blows from the right and contrary, the deviation 
 will be to the left and loiu : therefore, in order to 
 strike the bull's-eye, aim should be taken to the 
 right and high; and to the left and high if the 
 current of air is contrary, and from the left. 
 
 If the wind blows from the right and rear, on 
 aiming direct at the bull's-eye, the deflection of the 
 bullet will be to the left and high : therefore, in such 
 a case, aim should be taken to the right and low ; or 
 to the left and low, if the current of air comes from 
 the left and rear.
 
 OF THE OLD WORLD. 495 
 
 Correct judgment in making the proper allow- 
 ances for the efifect of various winds upon the flight 
 of the projectile, can only be gained by practice in 
 all kinds of weather, but the above hints may assist 
 the novice. 
 
 The state of the atmosphere considerably affects 
 the range of the bullet. In damp weather, when 
 the atmosphere is dense, its resistance to the flight 
 of the bullet is increased, and consequently greater 
 elevation should be given. In fine clear weather, on 
 the contrary, the resistance is less, and the bullet 
 7'ises, therefore less elevation is required. Humidity 
 in the atmosphere also affects the range of the bullet 
 in a different manner, as it has a certain influence 
 on ignition of gunpowder, which in damp weather is 
 not so rapid as in fine ; therefore, on such days, larger 
 charges should be used than in hot summer days. 
 
 The positioJi of the sun is sometimes liable to in- 
 fluence the correct aim, as if it shines from the right 
 it lightens up the right side of the front-sight, and 
 the left side of the notch of the back-sight, throwing 
 the left of the front-sight and the right of the back- 
 sight into the shade ; therefore, if the firer is not 
 careful in aiming properly, the " line of sight " is 
 liable to pass from the left of the centre of the notch 
 of the back-sight and the I'ight of the front-sight, 
 the effect of which would be that the bullet would 
 strike to the left, and vice versa if the sun shines 
 from the left. Sun-shades are sometimes used to 
 obviate this difficulty.
 
 496 THE HUNTING GKOUNDS 
 
 It must be obvious to all, that the flight of the 
 bullet occupies a certain time, and in firing at mov- 
 ing objects a certain allowance should be made 
 accordingly, and great judgment is required in this 
 point when firing at long ranges. For instance, in 
 deer-stalking, if a deer is running transversely either 
 to the right or left, a sportsman aiming directly at 
 the shoulder would most likely either strike the 
 hind-quarter or miss by shooting behind, as, in the 
 time between the discharge of his rifle and the im- 
 pact or striking of the bullet, the quarry would have 
 moved forward a certain distance. The following 
 hints on this point may aid the novice : — 
 
 In firing at anything moving, it is advisable to 
 " cover" the object and allow the muzzle to follow it 
 for some distance before pulling the trigger, in 
 order to ascertain the velocity of the motion and 
 the allowances required to be made. 
 
 If the object is directly approaching the person 
 firing, the muzzle of the barrel should be gradually 
 lowered, the finger feeling the trigger all the time, 
 and aim should be taken low. 
 
 If the object is retiring, the muzzle of the rifle 
 should be raised, (more or less according to the dis- 
 tance and the velocity of motion of the object,) and 
 aim taken high. 
 
 If the object is moving across, either to the right 
 or left, aim should be taken well forward, after 
 having followed the motion with the object well 
 covered for some time.
 
 OF THE OLD WOULD. 
 
 497 
 
 Should the object be ascending a hill, fire high ; 
 if descending, fire low ; if diagonally, in front 
 
 The best colour for the dress of a sportsman is 
 gray or brown, being less distinguishable than any 
 other. 
 
 The following tables were constructed with great 
 care from a series of experiments I made with tar- 
 gets of diflPerent coloured cloth, under various cir- 
 cumstances and at different distances, in order to 
 serve the newly-raised volunteer corps in the selec- 
 tion of the most suitable colour for their uniform. 
 The figure 1 denotes the most visible, 7 the least so, 
 invisible : — 
 
 
 At Three Hundred Yards. 
 
 At Six Iluudred Yards. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 to 
 
 § 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i£ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■> 
 
 3^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 !*. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 >, 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 .^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Colours. 
 
 3 
 
 o 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 ■o 
 o 
 ■a 
 
 8 
 
 '9 
 
 3 
 2 
 o 
 >> 
 
 o 
 
 u 
 
 o 
 
 u 
 > 
 
 >> 
 
 to 
 
 '3 
 
 o 
 ir 
 
 S 
 
 5 
 Q 
 
 3 
 •a 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 ■3 
 § 
 p 
 
 5 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 a 
 '3 
 
 '3 
 
 o 
 
 a 
 o 
 
 1, 
 
 _c5 
 
 
 O 
 
 ^ 
 
 K 
 
 m 
 3 
 
 O 
 2 
 
 < 
 4 
 
 <! 
 5 
 
 < 
 4 
 
 o 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 o 
 
 3 
 
 < 
 5 
 
 < 
 4 
 
 O 
 5 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 Green (Rifle) 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 Blue (Royal) 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 •i 
 
 2 
 
 White 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 Gray 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 
 ti 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 (5 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 U 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 fi 
 
 Brown (dead 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 leaf) 
 
 V 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 t> 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 () 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 () 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 2l
 
 498 
 
 THE HUNTING GROUNDS, ETC. 
 
 
 
 At Three Hinidred Ya«-ds Distant. 
 
 
 
 On a Clear Day. 
 
 
 On 
 
 X Cloudy Day. 
 
 
 "fen 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 to 
 c 
 
 
 
 Culour?. 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 .M 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 t>. 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 >-. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ">> 
 
 
 ■6 
 
 
 •?, 
 
 a 
 
 t3 
 
 c 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 .a 
 
 "5 
 
 
 P 
 
 
 
 02 
 
 ^ 
 
 3 
 
 S 
 
 02 
 
 K 
 
 K 
 
 W 
 
 M 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 4 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 
 3 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 5 
 4 
 
 Green (Rifle) 
 
 Blue (Royal) 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 5J 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 6 
 
 1 
 5 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 I 
 
 
 7 
 
 Gray 
 
 Brown (dead leaf) 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 By these tables it will be seen that gray and 
 brown are colours that are the least distinguishable 
 %t a distance, and consequently the most suitable 
 for light troops. 
 
 THE END 
 
 rRINTED BY BALLANTVNE AND COMPANY 
 EDINBURGH AND LONDON
 
 ?/dl52
 
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