THE "CALIFORXIANS" LEAVING HOME JULY 15, 1902 YZalifcrnian Hireling the lUL-rrSTRATHD F"HOM PHOTOGRAPHS N A X.A n KN K PuBiasHiNO COMPANY LOB ANomi.BH, CALIFORNIA. 1904 COPYRIGHT, 19O4 BY HENRY FUUL.KR DEDICATED TO MY ONLY (TWIN) SIBTKR MRS N. B. WEAVER. PERU. CLINTON COUNTY, NHW YORK IN MKMUKV OF CHILDHOOD DAYM. ... CONTENTS ... CHAPTER I. A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. An idea outgrowing- the bean that Jack planted 500 miles up the California Coast Looking out of the Golden Gate Over theSierra Nevadas Through Utah Meander- ing across many States Memories of childhood Sailing down the Hudson New York Coney Island Across the Atlantic Ireland In "bonnie" Scotland Loch Lomond Loch Katrine The Trossacks Through Rob Roy's country Where poets grow Edinburgh Love blossom- ing in Melrose Abbey. CHAPTER II. LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. Car window observations in England Manchester Liverpool London Excitement over money lost Shah of Persia Spurgeon's Tabernacle City Temple Ken- sington Museum Fireworks at Sydenham British Mu- seum Big Ben Houses of Parliament London Tower John Wesley's Grave Across the English Channel "La Belle" France Dieppe Normandy Paris Eiffel Tower Notre Dame Cathedral Versailles On wrong train Brussels Rotterdam Dusseldorf Great German Expo- sition Glimpses of German life Cologne Cologne Cath- edral. v. CHAPTER III. PROM MOSCOW TO MH,AN. Berlin Arranging- passports In Poland Russia Medi- tating in Warsaw Darwin's theory disproved Russian Peasant life Moscow Forced to abandon a Russian train at 1 o'clock at night Second act of meditation in Warsaw At the German frontier Breslau Over the Continental divide of Europe Budapest No old people in heaven Vienna Sweeter than angel's food Salzburg- Mayence Sailing down the Rhine Castles and romance Another glimpse at German life Lucerne Sunrise and sunset in the Alps Climbing St. Gothard's Pass Through the Tunnel Northern Italy Milan and its Cathedral. CHAPTER IV. PROM ROMS TO SMYRNA. Genoa Rome "the Eternal City" The largest church in the world, St. Peters Mamertine prison Ossian Way Temple of Hercules St. Paul's Cathedral Three Foun- tains In the Catacombs Appian Way Arch of Titus Coliseum Roman Forum Palatine Hill Naples Pom- peii Climbing Mount Vesuvius Standing on the rim of it's Crater Southern Italy Brindisi Sailing on the Adriatic A Supernatural vision In Greece Old Corinth A stairway higher than the stars Athens The Acropolis Mars Hill Pirasus On the ^Dgean Sea Chios Smyrna. CHAPTER V. EPHESUS, DAMASCUS AND PALESTINE. Ephesus Isle of Patmos Island of Cyprus Island of Rhodes Meresina the Seaport of Tarsus Tripoli Beir- rout Caifa Joppa Scared by giants away from "the Promised Land Under quarantine in Beirout harbor Across the Lebanon Mountains where the cedars grew Plains of Beeka Wonders of Baalbec Over the Anti- Lebanon mountains Damascus "the oldest city in the world" River Abana Straight street Houses of Ana- nias and Naaman Camping to Jerusalem Near Mount Hermon Caesarea Philippi Sources of the Jordan Vil- lage of Dan Sea of Merom Juaneh Safed Fishing- in the Sea of Galilee Plain of Gennesaret. CHAPTER VI. TRAVELING IN PALESTINE. Safed Rocks and curses hurled at us in an Arab village Plain of El Buttauf Armed Turkish soldiers placing- us underquarantine Release Nazareth Women quarreling- at night for water Plain of Esdraelon River Kishon Mount Carmel Jenin Nablous Jacob's Well Climbing Mount Gerizim A Samaritan Synagogue Shiloh Bethel Part- ing place of Abraham and Lot Mount Scopus Jerusalem Mosque of Omar Church of Holy Sepulchre New Calvary Garden of Gethsemane Mount Olivet Bethany Jericho Mount of Temptation Elisha's Spring- Dead Sea River Jordan Rachel's Tomb Bethlehem Church of Nativity Solomon's Pools Tombs of the Judges Mizpeh Gibeon. CHAPTER VII. EIGHT HUNDRED MILES UP THE NILE. Leaving Jerusalem On a Turkish railway Joppa Watching for a steamer Oldest seaport in the world Em- barking Jonah and the whale Port Said Alexadria In quarantine three days Release Delta of the Nile Cairo Heliopolis Land of Goshen Racing on a bridge Jacob's Well Bedrechein Memphis Annual overflow of the Nile Oldest pyramid in the world 30,000,000 Egyptians buried in one cemetery A desert ride Serapheum Where Sacred bulls were buried the Sphinx Cheops On top of the largest pyramid in the world BY rail to upper Egypt vii. Luxor Temple of Karnak Tombs of Pharoahs Temple of Medinet Haboo Colossi of Memnon Temple of Luxor Ancient Thebes Assouan In Nubia Temple of Phils On the Libyan desert Illumination of Assouan. CHAPTER VIII. EGYPT AND INDIA. Opening- of the largest dam in the world, at Assouan Obelisk quarry Assouan to Cario Cairo Museum Mum- mied Pharoahs of Moses' time Ishmalia Port Said Booking on the steamship Arabia to India Sailing- through Suez Canal Suez Crossing-place of the Israelites in the Red Sea Mt. Sinai Aden Arabian Sea Southern Cross Bombay Towers of Silence on Malabar Hill Glimpses of India from a railway train Tundla Junction Delhi Durbar Great elephant parade Amritsar Weaving rugs Golden temple of the Sikhs Burning Hindoo body New Years in Delhi Art Exhibition Fireworks Delhi public library Chandni Chonk An Eurasians clever dodge Lucknow North India Methodist Episcopal Conference. CHAPTER IX. INDIA CHINA AND JAPAN. Agra Taj Mahal Agra Fort Ahmednager Bubonic plague Meditation Dharangaon Across India Howrah Calcutta An idea Crossing the Ganges Siliguri June, tion A toy train Climbing the Himalayas Gnoom Darjeeling Hiring a dandy Trip to Tiger Hill The Tall- est mountains in the world Looking towards Thibet Re- turn to Calcutta Booking to Hong Kong On the Hugli Bay of Bengal Andaman Islands Penang Malacca Straits Singapore China Sea Hong Kong Shanghai Nagasaki Inland Sea Kobe Osaka Yokohama Tokio Chickens with tails twelve feet long Shogun Temples Empress of India Pacific Ocean Victoria Vancouver Sumas Uncle Sam's custom house Home. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE NO FRONTISPIECE The "Calif ornians" Leaving Home. Bullhead Fountain of Marble, at Ephesus ... 10 River Abana, Damascus ...... 16 July 15th, 1902 Street Scene in Damascus 22 Donkey Loaded With Weeds for Fuel near Damascus 26 Street Scene in London ....... 32 Old Site of Memphis (during Nile overflow ) . . 36 Wesley's Grave, City Roads Chapel, London . . 40 Oldest Pyramid in Egypt, near Memphis ... 46 The Nile at Assouan December 10th, 1902 . . .56 Carriage in Moscow 68 One Source of River Jordan at Caesarea Philippi. . 78 On the Rhine, Germany 88 Fallen Statue of Rameses II, Memphis . . .94 Rebuilding Ruins, Karnak, Egypt .... 102 Arch of Titus, Rome 10 8 Street in Pompeii. Chariot Ruts from Four to Five inches in Depth. ....... 114 Parthenon, Athens 130 Camel Caravan Loaded with Cotton .... 138 Isle of Patmos 142 Temple of Jupiter, Baalbec 154 Camping from Damascus 160 Interior of Jewish Home (inner court) Damascus . 164 Treading Corn with Oxen, Jordan Valley, Palestine . 168 ix. PAGE NO. Plain of Gennesaret, Sea of Galilee .... 176 Fountain of the Virgin in Nazareth .... 184 Donkey and Ox Plowing, just outside walls of Jeru- salem .......... 200 Off for Gibeon from Jerusalem 210 Natives Going to Market, Memphis .... 230 Sphinx and Cheops . 236 Crossing the Nile at Ancient Thebes . . . 242 Temple Ruins at Ancient Thebes ..... 246 Temple of Philae, Nubia 250 Assouan Dam (largest in the world) .... 254 Duke and Duchess of Connaught and Khedive of Egypt 256 Vultures Awaiting Parsee Funeral, Malabar Hill, Bombay ......*.. 272 State Entry of Durbar, Delhi, December 29th, 1902 . 278 Taj Mahal, Agra, India 294 Native Carts Loaded with Cotton, Dharangaon, India. 300 Darjeeling, in the lofty Himalayas .... 304 Natives Stripping for Plague Inspection, Calcutta. 312 Ox-cart, Yokahama 316 Taking a Jinrickisha Ride, Penang .... 322 THIS story of Circling the Globe was written (on the way) in railway trains, at hotels and bungalows, on steam- ships, in out-of-the-way places, and under many varying circumstances, in a series of letters (101) and published in the "Redland's (Cal.) Daily Review." Almost in the shadow of the Adirondacks, in my native State, in the fall of 1903, at the home of my nephew, S. S. Allen, Esq., as the Autumn leaves were putting on their bright colors, then twirling downward through the air, into the lap of mother earth, never to rise again, as each mountain top was gathering its mantle of white from the passing clouds, as many birds were flying to a warmer clime, and as the gray and almost colorless sky began to assume a wintry appearance, I compiled from those letters this volume. I could change their phraseology but little, except to eliminate some personal allusions. If there is any charm in this book to any reader, it may be in my description of the little things that many travelers do not notice! Nearly all the illustrations are from a camera that my son, Elmer, used, and at the time the idea of placing them and the letters , we almost wished we were aboard, as we know that camping on the shores of Lake Tahoe is one of the most charming A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 3 experiences. In passing down the eastern slope of these Sierra Nevada mountains, we saw in little meadows along- side of the Truckee river, men cutting timothy hay, some- thing we do not have in the orange-growing districts of Cal- ifornia. We were soon at Reno, the largest town in Nevada. For about fifty miles east of Reno we saw large gangs of men and horses grading what is called "Wadsworth cut-off,'' where this railroad is building forty-seven miles of entirely new road, not gaining anything in distance, but reducing the grade and making better curves. Farther east, at the Pal- isades, Carlin and Elko, they are also cutting off curves, tun- neling through mountains all to save distance and lessen grade. They also propose a cut-off over the great Salt Lake, built for many miles on piles, where the water is in some places thirty feet deep, costing millions of dollars. Why all this expense? The Oriental traffic, only now in its infancy, will become so large in a few years that it will need several transcontinental routes to carry its traffic and travel. It seemed strange that here in mid-summer on the northern side of many of the larger mountains, in both Nevada and Utah, we saw patches of snow sparkling in the bright sun- light. In the early morning of July 18 we saw the great Salt Lake. Weather cool and delightful. As we passed up Webber can- yon on the Union Pacific railroad we admired the clear spark- ling river, green fields and meadows, while the beautiful Was- hatch mountains v/ere not far away, with huge drifts of snow on them in places, bordered with slopes of green and green trees, the whole forming a panorama of exceeding beauty. Here in Utah one sees stores with four letters on them, Z. C. M. I. You all know what they mean Zion's Co-opera- tive Mercantile Institution. Just before we passed out of Utah we saw far to the southeast the tops of the Rocky moun- tains. Over them were drifting some fleecy white clouds, as white as the drifts of snow on their summits. The first clouds of any sort we had seen since leaving Santa Barbara in California. 4 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. We pass Evanston, Wyoming, a bright looking place, not mountainous, and good roads in all directions. Plenty of grass, a magnificent grazing country surrounding it. In many places where the land slopes upward from the track there are one, two and often three lines of fences made of posts and boards to catch the whirling, drifting snow of winter time. In the early morning of July 19 we were in the western part of Nebraska. While conversing with a lady who came on the train this morning she said : "We have had two weeks with no sunshine; clouay weather all the time, with consid- erable rain something unusual for us." I said : "Have you ever lived in California?" She answered: "I have never been there." My reply was, "I thought you had." I was astonished. I have lived in California twenty-seven years, and after hearing everybody, myself included, trying to ex- plain to visiting Eastern tourists about the wind, weather and many other things, can you wonder at my astonishment? All these years I had believed that the term "unusual" was wholly a Californian word and way of explanation. How true it is as some one has said, "Man made the towns, but God made the country." How I love such bits of rural scenery and glimpses of home life as one can see from a swiftly moving train. Were I an artist and had the time and space, I would love to pen-picture some of them to you, so that you, too, might catch something of an inspiration from their bright radiance and glow, in order that we might all be lifted up from our everyday toil and thought. The next morning, July 20, we were nearing Chicago. Ev- erybody was picking up their things. We stayed over Sun- day with friends and relatives. Late in the evening we took the Pennsylvania route for Columbus. The charms of Ohio have been sung in rhyme and written in prose so often that it is useless for me to add or expatiate upon them, only to say that the waving grain fields, the luxuriant corn just tasseling out, the haying already done, with the red clover springing up again, the patches of green forest, lawn and pasture all combined will move the heart of an Ohioan as he returns A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 5 to his native home as nothing else will do. As he catches sight of the old farm house, with its moss-covered roof, with the beautiful fruit and shade trees standing about as of old, the eates of his memory will unfold; his heart will be en- circled with such veins of pathos and tenderness that out of the very depths of his soul will spring tears of joy and gladness. We were much interested in examining the United States weather man's way of measuring rain up on the top of a twelve-story building. He showed us how the rain was measured, every one-hundredth of an inch making a record on paper by electricity, how the aneometer worked and how cloudy weather was recorded separate from sunshine. Before leaving Columbus, Ohio, we procured at a steam- ship agency's office two blank applications for our passports. We filled out the blanks ; describing the color of our eyes, place of birth, our age, height and weight. Then going before a notary public we made affidavit having a person to identify us. Then the applications were forwarded to Washington for the Secretary of State to sign, with a request to forward them to New York, to be in readiness on the date of our sailing. In the morning of July 23, we left Columbus for Albany, N. Y. The ride to Cleveland was a delightful one, the coun- try everywhere nearly as pretty as a park. Lake Erie looked cool and inviting . We wanted to take a sail. As we passed along through the grape-growing districts bordering on this lake we were interested in their manner of training them on a trellis. Everywhere in the East the fields of grain, hay and fruit are so small in their area that to a Californian they seem very strange. He wonders how the Eastern farmer can make any money from (as it seems to him) such little patches of land. He forgets that in California nearly everyone have their eggs, so to speak, "all in one basket," and they fre- quently spoil or spill before they can market them. Yet tV average Californian is brave and full of resources (if some- times boastful). His California "way" is a sort of spontan- eous growth, because of his contact with great mountains, inspiring scenery and broad, fertile valleys. Can you wonder 6 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. that he becomes imbued with lofty ideas and cannot do differ- ently if he would? His California education and training make him a peer among men everywhere. In the early dawn we reached Albany, alighting in one of the finest depots in America. We purchased our tickets to Valcour, Clinton county, N. Y. Our train passed through Saratoga, the once famous watering place. How changed i Such crowds of people I saw here a few years ago. Now it takes a horse race or something as exciting to crowd Sara- toga. We saw canal boats in the Champlain canal being towed along in the old way with horses and mules. We soon reached Whitehall, situated at the head of Lake Champlain. Then began a ride of wondrous beauty. Winding in and about rocky cliffs, our train ambled by the side of the lake to the north. Just across to the east lay picturesque Vermont, the "Green Mountain State." At the right now and then we would catch a glimpse of the outlying Adirondacks. There were many Lake George tourists on the train. We soon pass- ed the ruins of the old historic fort of Ticonderoga. The rippling waters on the lake, the gray, showery sky, the abund- ance of wild flowers about us, green trees, bushes and grass with meadows of timothy and clover, sparkling with red and white clover bloom. Can you wonder at our being charmed? I love to come in contact with nature, so that I, too, may catch something of its (to me) ever wondrous beauty and glow. Home again. Just here in this part of Clinton county I was born. Impressions of childhood, can we ever forget them? The few days we spent here were pleasant, happy ones. It was haying time. We were on historic ground. Within eight miles the battle of Plattsburgh was fought, and only a little way out on the lake was the naval battle, both of them being the turning point in the war of 1812. We walked about picking buttercups, white and yellow daisies, as in the "days of yore." We gathered wild rasp- berries in the pastures, and about the fence corners. We heard the robins in the maple and elm trees singing as we A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 7 used to say "for rain." We went into the woods, and out of their depths came the notes of the different wild birds, so clear and musical, that somewhere out of the inmost depths of my soul there came an echoing and re-echoing chord of memory, with such harmonious tuning, that I knew I had caught the same sweet notes of song in my early boyhood days. I found grand old elm and maple trees that I had played under over 50 years ago. How my heart did leap for joy to see these familiar trees of boyhood memory again. Like a moving panorama, there came also other trees from the sensitive yet perfect plates of memory's storehouse, wherein I knew they stood here and there, so familiar in form and shape. Alas ! I wept because I saw them not. Other trees, doubtless grand and beautiful, had taken their places. I only glanced at them. My heart yearned for the trees of memory, the very best friends of my boyhood days. Oh, how I missed them. I went into the village cemetery. I stood at my father's grave. Over 40 years ago his burial took place. As I turned away there came into my heart such sweet strains of ten- derness and love that I wondered if an angel was tuning rp~ for heaven. Often when a boy, instead of learning to skate and swim, as other boys did, I would get on some grassy knoll and lay on my back for hours watching the clouds come and go, or if too cold for that, would perchance watch the crows as they went "cawing" by, or the squirrels as they gamboled about in the leafless trees. I walked upon a hill. Over yonder in the east away beyond the lake I saw the Green mountains of Vermont Camel's Hump, Mount Mansfield and all the rest. Turning around to the west and southwest, I saw the Adirondacks, with the familiar lines of Mount Marcy among their towering peaks. How glad I was to see them. We went fishing on Lake Champlain, catching some perch, as we expected to. As we folded up our lines, I wondered if the next unfolding of them would be on the Sea of Galilee. 8 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. We went to church. There were just twelve in attendance, counting the preacher. He said he was disappointed because it rained and no more came. He preached one of the best sermons I ever heard in my life. I shouted out some real "Amens." The walls of that little old country stone church were so unaccustomed to any such sound that the crickets paused in their singing and wondered "What next." Next morning we were again in Albany. We walked up to the State building. We went in. This building, now com- pleted, cost $25,000,000, and was thirty years in building. We admired the wonderful stone architecture everywhere, the polished marble pillars, paintings of great worth and value. As we stood in the Senate chamber I said, "We will see something better in Europe." Elmer replied, "I do not know ; I think this is pretty grand." We were interested in the battle flags 232 of them. All were carried by New York troops. July 29, at 8:50 a. m., we boarded the "New York," one of the day steamers on the Hudson river. A great many pas- sengers came on board. They seemed to come from every- where, and in every way. The "summer girl" as neat and trim in appearance as ships at sea, came jauntily aboard. This magnificent steamer soon started. We were seated on the upper deck and somewhere from the passenger saloon below, there came enlivening strains of orchestral music. Our steamer only stopped at the larger cities on the river, taking on and letting off numerous passengers. We were interested all day long in looking at the passengers about us, the scenery on each shore, and in passing and meeting yachts and boats of various kinds. We will not enter into any detailed des- cription as we intend to sail up the Rhine in a few days, and then may make some comparisons. We were much interested in the height and width of span of the railroad bridge at Poughkeepsie, so high that no drawbridge is needed. We entered the city, as you all know, down by the famous River- side Drive, where everybody recognizes General Grant's tomb, and just a little distance away are a group of noble buildings, the Columbia University. Soon our steamer reached its pier A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 9 at the foot of Twenty-second street We were carried along as it were by the crowding, moving throng of passengers from pier to street. Reaching our hotel in the heart of the metrop- olis of America, we retired for the night early. Very soon Elmer came and helloed into my room, wanting to know "what time it \\ as." I looked at my watch and replied "half past eleven." He had awakened from a sound sleep, and hearing the rush of cars and hacks on the street, and people walking and talking almost everywhere, he concluded (with our rooms facing on a court) that it was morning, dressed and made his toilet before a suspicion of the truth dawned upon him. Except on stormy nights there is little cessa- tion of noise on the New York streets. The next morning we took the elevated railroad. After riding to about i7Oth street, Elmer asked, "How long can we keep this thing up." The thousands of blocks in every direc- tion, all solidly built up, except little yards and courts for light and air, the miles and miles of avenues and streets he had seen filled with the rush and roar of city traffic, and the length of time and distance, we had already ridden, paying only a nickle for our fare, prompted his question. I replied, "If one knows where to get on and how to manage, he can ride 28 miles in this city for one fare." We went into St. Paul's chapel on Broadway, erected in 1766. We looked at the pew Washington had rented there at one time. Only a little way off on the opposite side of the street was a "sky scraper," thirty stories high. The building had a tower. Even that was rented and occupied by tenants. We were told that farther up in the city, a building was being erected 33 stories high. We did not see it. We walked over the Brooklyn bridge. We saw cars go bj marked "To Coney Island." It was with difficulty we jumped on one, as they were loaded with people. Passing across entirely this portion of Greater New York, and after a ride of four or five miles in comparatively open country, we reach- ed Coney Island. We immediately walked to the seashore. There was scarcely room to walk between the people. Ev- 10 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. erybody seemed to De dressed in holiday attire. The surf broke much closer to the shore and with, at this time, smaller waves than you are accustomed to either at Long Beach or Santa Monica. Everywhere we went we could have counted thous- ands of people. Ransack your memory; count up every fake scheme you ever saw, at a fair, circus or anywhere else; multiply them all by at least four fold, and you have Coney Island. Not many miles away we saw the great hotels of Brighton and Manhattan beaches. With another look at the largest eating and dancing pavilions we ever saw, full of peo- ple ( a glance at the race course, where thousands of men and women had paid 75 cents each to see and perhaps wager on a few horses running, we entered our car for New York. In the forenoon of Saturday, August 2, we took a car for pier 54, North River, and boarded the steamship Astoria for Glasgow, Scotland. Having been shown the staterooms on the steamer our tickets called for, and taking thereto our baggage, we sat down, and began a sort of retrospection. Expectations were high. From pier to pier our steamer, bound for Glasgow, was to sail a distance of 3011 miles. Very quickly a mental calculation placed this voyage at about one-eighth of the entire distance around the world. We had secured our pass- ports, coming directly from Washington, during our stay in New York. On them was affixed the great red seal of the Department of State, and the personal signature of the Sec- retary, John Hay. In the description my age was given three times older than Elmer's ; in height I was three inches shorter. It made me feel small and dwarfish. The passports are good for two years. We were tired of looking at gray and somber skies, with clouds of dripping rain every now and then. And almost ev- erybody we saw east of Wyoming had a pale, white pinched look to their faces. We missed the dry invigorating air and golden sunshine of California. We were afraid of asthma, bronchitis and all their kindred ills. The previous evening we had attended a religious meeting in the open air, on the BULL-HEAD FOUNTAIN AT EPHESUS. A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 11 roof of a building on Eighth avenue several stories high, over Stephen Merritt's undertaking establishment. Mr. Merritt is the undertaker that buried General Grant. We laughed heartily as \ve rememebered how abruptly the meeting ended, as after more than an hour of service, including quite a long talk by Mr. Merritt, he said : "Now, after these few preliminary remarks, we will commence the meeting," when the clouds broke loose again, and rain began to patter, and after the chairs were piled up, and the piano put under shel- ter, everybody scrambled for cover. There were potted palms (artificial) on the roof and about the building, looking so real that we thought of our sunny southland, where they grow in the yards and by the roadside. We saw on the pier, drays loading with large bales of hides. They came from India. Our musings were suddenly interrupted by officers of the ship going fore and aft, calling out, "Everybody not going to sail go ashore." We then witnessed an impressive scene of leave-taking or "parting of the ways." The crust of every- day life (our greatest taskmaster), of habit, of culture, of polish, of money getting, of fashion, of self, and of pride was broken, and there came to the surface great waves of the emotional, inner self or nature, in those about us. We saw loving hand grasps and embraces, where in silence heart speaks to heart. Gestures of animation and earnestness every- where. Strong men and women wept. Loving messages were intrusted to loving hearts to carry and deliver beyond the sea. The gangways were pulled ashore. The ship's hawsers were lifted from the pier. A flash of electric signals went from the pilot room down to the engineer. The engines started. The propeller blades began to move. Our ship was under way. On the end of the pier stood many people, wav- ing handkerchiefs and hats, while on the ship hundreds re- sponded as we moved away. A little puffing tug pushed the ship about as it turned its prow down North river. The inner harbor was soon traversed, then a narrow channel, marked out by bouys in the form of a semi-circle, then passing 12 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. Sandy Hook, and ten miles east the pilot left and we sailed away. Not a sea gull, nor duck, nor any bird did we see, except a few stormy petrels, until we were over 2000 miles from New York. And not much marine life visible. Some porpoises, not as large as on the Pacific coast. The captain and most of the crew belong to the Royal Naval Reserve of England and go training once each year. The passengers soon became acquainted with each other. In the dining saloon the seat you occupy the first meal is expected to be retained and occupied by you at all subsequent meals. One bright morning we went on deck and about twenty miles away was the northwest coast of Ireland. The moun- tains higher than I expected to see; not a tree on any one of them, but green to their tops, except where bare rock cov- ered their surface but not much of that. From a distance there was a great resemblance to our Southern California coast range, except our mountains present a more serrated appearance. Soon on their slopes farms began to appear, with whitewashed stone houses and country roads. Some of the mountains near the coast were too wind-swept to be cul- tivated, apparently covered with moss. Many of the others were too steep. As we passed along east on this northern coast the country improved. Many of our Irish passengers fairly danced with joy as they saw the "Emerald Isle" once more. I did not blame them, as I never had seen any scenery more quaint and pretty. Abrupt rocks stood like sentinels along the shore. The contour of the bays are graceful in their curves. The mountains became lower, the valleys larger with villages and farms everywhere. On projecting heads of rock and islands were great stone light houses. We came to anchor at Moorill to let off the passengers for Londonderry. Will I ever forget the scene? Just opposite to where we were, perhaps 500 yards away, were the ruins of an old castle, built by the Normans in the thirteenth century. Some of the bastions, towers and walls, were standing. Said Mr. Clayton, a passenger from Washington, D. C. : "This is worth the cost of the whole trip to only see this old A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 13 castle." I thought so, too. We looked south toward Lon- donberry. We saw miles and miles of gently sloping, un- dulating country, all covered with little farms. On this bright August day, were it truthfully painted on canvas by an artist, the whole world of art would be talking about it On a little steamer called the Samson our Irish passengers sailed away to Londonderry. We resumed our journey. Near- ly all the morning we haa seen, probably eighty miles away, the tops of mountains on some Scottish islands. Among them were two notable peaks, the "Paps of Jura." It takes a remarkably clear day to see them from the northern Irish coast. As we sailed across the channel to Glasgow, the first point of interest is Rathlin island. It is not far from the Irish coast. This island rises abruptly out of the sea, about 800 feet high. Its precipitous sides and comparatively level top are as green as a park, yet not a tree or bush in sight. We could see a lighthouse, two dwellings and some cattle feeding. Soon we came close to the "Mull of Cantire," a peninsula jutting out from Scotland, with only now and then a house in sight. As we approached the entrance to the Clyde, we saw to the south a large dome-shaped circular rock sev- eral hundred feet high, pointed at its top and symmetrical in shape. I did not tire of looking at it, so bold and grand in appearance. Its sides, too precipitous to climb, are the home and breeding place of thousands of sea gulls. Its name is Ailsa Craig. The next point of interest was the Isle of Arran. These Scotch farms, dotted with stone houses and little fields, divided with thorn hedges, made us exclaim, "How beautiful !" The beautiful Clyde is in some respects like the lower Hud- son river, yet possessing a beauty and charm that is peculiar to Scotland, and must be seen to be appreciated. There are very few costly and palatial residences overlooking the Clyde, not over a half dozen, and they are owned by Lord or Mar- quis somebody, who apparently owns all the adjacent country. So far all the trees we have seen are planted. Do not think this part of the Gyde is narrow, for it is very wide in many 14 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. places. Off to the right is the city of Ardrassan, where pas- sengers are carried by rail from Glasgow to take the steamer for Belfast, Ireland. We soon came to long rows of stone houses on the north shore, all looking alike as peas in a pod, and I asked what they were 'for. A Scotchman replied, "They are the summer homes of Glasgow people." I saw a small pier and a steamer landing and boats out fishing, but how different from our Southern California summer homes by the sea. All these stone houses were as gray as gray could be, while the farmer uses whitewash on his stone house. We soon reached Grennock, where as the Scotch people quaintly say, is the "tail of the hills," meaning that from here several miles to Glasgow, the Clyde narrows until for a long distance there is barely room for two steamers to pass. At daybreak our ship started from Grennock for Glasgow. I immediately arose, dressed and went on deck. We were in one of the greatest shipbuilding centers of the world. We saw all sorts of ships, in all stages of construction. Over yonder the keel of a great battleship was just being laid, while by its side the proud clipper ship of modern style ana speed was almost ready for launching. We saw, as it seem- ed to me, armies of men going to work. We passed by the Singer Sewing Machine Co.'s plant, where -there are eleven thousand men employed. This point is the central head- quarters of their business, with branch offices in every other city around the globe. Their buildings and surroundings were like a city complete in itself. Glasgow has doubled its population in about twenty years, now numbering nearly a million of people. Our steamer came to its pier. We went on shore. Everybody had to open their trunks and valises for inspection, as spirits, per- fumes and tobaccos are subject to a tax. We told the custom house officer that we were just "tramping around the world," so he put a chalk mark on our luggage, and we were free. The ocean voyage was ended ; tranquil seas, enshrouded in soft, sweet summer skies had been our lot. We had met A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 15 two large passenger steamers just outside of Sandy Hook, seen one or two freight steamers at a distance, and met two or three more off the coast of Ireland. We had encountered no ice, yet near Newfoundland one night the barometer drop- ped three points and the ship slackened her speed. We were near an ice field. The most impressive incident to me of the entire ocean trip occurred, while about 300 miles off the Irish coast, when some of us saw, not over 500 yards to the right, something sticking up about ten feet out of the water, looking like the top of the mast of a ship. Some sailors standing by me said it was, although they had not seen it before. Perchance some day some ship sailed for the last time, and is now a derelict in the seas. We noticed that nearly all the drays or trucks had only two wheels, and were drawn by only one horse. Such large horses, with large feet having long hair above the fetlocks, I never saw before. Over the collar of each horse was a wide strip of leather running to a point several inches above the horse, then two iron prongs reaching upwards, one on either side, looking like horns. As we came into the city we noticed that all the street cars were two-storied and well filled with people, especially on top. Double tracks in the streets, yet each car in passing seemed to us to be on the wrong track, running just the reverse of the way in our American cities. Everybody looked at us, even the small boy. They knew we were strangers. Nearly every building was four stories high, built of stone, and the surprising part of it was that we saw no chimneys as in America. There were stone projections oblong in shape on the roofs, and out of them single lengths of vitrified pipe, sometimes a dozen or more in one clump, evidently each room having a separate flue to the roof. The buildings being all of nearly one height, and so many bright colored flues in sight, in contrast to the gray stone and gray slate with which all buildings are covered, presented a pecul- iar appearance. We went into a restaurant. A person at our table ordered 16 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. some scones. Wondering what they were, we ordered some also. There came to us about eight pieces of bread as large or larger than a biscuit, of different shapes, some of them like biscuit in taste, others like rolls, and among them two pan- cakes, all cold. The butter on a plate was little round in- dented balls, each a little larger in size than a cherry. There was also a plate of cakes, of different colors and kinds, about the size of cup cakes. We ordered milk. Each glass of milk, scone or cake we used cost one penny each. Everytime we changed some of our good American money into gold, silver or copper coins of the British realm, there came a feeling over us that we were getting inferior money. To us at first the changed money seemed to have an uncanny look. In the hotels we found good accommodations, cheaper than the same class in Los Angeles. Some of the furniture looked old The bedsteads were iron and brass, the iron was paint- ed black instead of white, as in America. The rooms average larger in size and many of them have two double beds. The Scotch people say "fust" for first, "wee" for little, "bonnie" for good, and sometimes "hame" for home. With their Scotch accent we sometimes had to ask what they said. Our Cali- fornia ways and words were equally puzzling to them. We had a letter of introduction to John White, keeper of a restaurant for fifty years. We entered his business place. I asked a young lady if Mr. John White was in. She replied, "Do you want some jam and bread." We took long rides in the street cars on the top story; fare, one and one-half pence, and found much of interest at every turn. We visited the old Glasgow cathedral, built by the Roman Catholics several hundred years ago, after the Reformation under John Knox it became Presbyterian. We saw one pair of old doors leading to the vestry that have hung in place 600 years. In the vestry was an old chair said to have belonged to Oliver Cromwell. Elmer sat down in it. I declined the honor. The oldest part of this church was built about the twelfth century One window in commemoration of Queen Victoria's visit cost $12,500. We saw some crypts down in the basement of the RIVER ABANA, DAMASCUS, SYRIA, A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 17 church, dating back to the Twelfth century. Glasgow, on account of soft coal and a great manufacturing center, is as smoky as Pittsburg or Cleveland. In business activity it re- sembles an American city. One morning we purchased tickets to Edinburgh via Loch Lomond and Loch Katrine, costing seventeen shilling each, over the North British railway. We wended our way to the station. There were many trains coming and going. You have all seen descriptions of how the apartment and corridor cars look. You just walk along outside the train and open the door from the plat- form wherever you like and step into the car. There are four or five apartments in each car. The train of perhaps a dozen coaches are nearly all third class, perhaps one first class looking no better. No longer any second class on these roads. Like everybody else, our tickets were third class. The first class car should have been draped in mourn- ing to correspond to its lonesome look. The platform was filled with people hurrying to and fro. All the fashionable ones, of course, had porters to carry their luggage. No large trunks. Nearly all the baggage was small enough to go into the apartment with you ; if not, there was a baggage van coach on the train, but you would have to claim it at destination. No system of checking. Our train was filled with well-dressed people as we left Glasgow for Balloch. Just before starting a conductor came along, and punched each of our tickets, but not locking us in, as I expected. In our compartment there were ten, all adults the ut- most limit of its seating capacity. For several miles our train ran down the Clyde, passing Dunbarton Castle and the shipbuilding centers. Nearly all roadways for street travel are elevated above the track in the country, while in the cities tunnels are used, or a natural depression in the land. All trains run swiftly between stations with no ringing of bells, as there are no railroad crossings. This August morn- ing the farms, with haying in full progress and fields of oats, barley, wheat, beans and potatoes, with pastures and 18 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. cattle, sheep and horses grazing on them, with wild flowers everywhere could we but say, "This is bonnie Scotland?" Arriving at Balloch we found a pretty steamer waiting for us, already well loaded with passengers from trains on other roads. Our train load crowded on, many of us only having standing room. Shortly we were sailing over Loch Lomond, the largest of Scottish lakes. Just then a man came walking among us, dressed in uniform, saying, "Has ye all got tickets?" What a cosmopolitan lot of people. Several hundred, mostly English speaking, yet from everywhere. Everybody wore such a look of expectancy, as we all knew that this lake scenery has a world-wide reputation. At first the lake was quite wide; there were also a good many trees on the hillsides. In the distance in front of us there were tall, rugged mountains. One range looked as high and re- minded me of the Catskills on the Hudson. There were farms on which were sheep feeding, and altogether from the lake was a scene of pastoral beauty. The lake is twenty-one miles long and five miles wide at our entrance, narrowing down to one-half mile wide. The mountains grow bolder, some of them over 3000 feet high. Nooks and dells of tim- ber, wooded islands so sylvanlike in appearance that as our steamer glided along between them we seemed to be in fairy land. There were boats with people in them fishing. Beau- tiful towns that the steamer stopped at where we saw flowers creeping up on the houses and in the yards, and troops of gaily dressed people. The kaleidoscope of color all about us, the green, brown, purple and gray on the mountains, the still blue waters and little rocky isles, with only a bit of green, or a tree or two, a rare bit for the Scotch poets to write about. Loch Lomond, will we ever forget your entrancing beauty and loveliness? Our soul says, "Never." Our boat landed us at Iversnaid. The most of the passen- gers had landed at the different towns along the lake, yet there were four large tally-ho English coaches, with coach- men and footmen dressed in red coats to take the 100 peo- ple left over the hills to Loch Katrine. We climbed on a A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 19 coach. The driver cracked his whip. We were away, over rock, hill and dell, with beautiful wild flowers about us for two miles, and then we take the steamer on Loch Katrine. The tally-ho ride had been a chapter of surprises at every turn. Now in dense woods, then by the side of a rippling brook. We sailed away on Loch Katrine. We were in Rob Roy's country. No wind, no sunshine, yet this placid lake looked like a mirror, reflecting rocks, trees, birds flying overhead, and sharp mountain peaks, as though its surface was one great French plate glass. This lake is narrow and not many trees in sight. Upon the mountain sides were fields of heath bloom, red in color, looking like velvet, and in other places were great stretches of the famous heather just coming into its purple color and bloom. Interspersed among and around both were irregular patches of ferns, and brown rocky places with grass and wild flowers, all forming a scene of such beauty and color that I said to a Scotchman, a world-wide traveler, standing by my side, with whom I had been con- versing, "Will I see anything grander in Switzerland?" He replied, "No, nothing more bonnie except the mountains will be a wee bit higher." As we reached the steamer landing another lot of English tally-ho coaches were ready. A ride of five miles was before us, over Scottish highlands and moors. Not many trees, and in many places none at all, while heath, heather, ferns, grass, wild flowers and steep mountain sides with their tops bathed in soft and seem- ingly ever-present summer clouds, made it a ride I will never forget. Just before sunset, as we drove into Aberfoyle, a little highland town, the clouds lifted in the west, a bit of sunshine shone forth, lighting up the highlands and moors about us with such gleams of sparkling, golden color, that we concluded, although the railroad train for Edinburgh was waiting for the stages, to break our ride, as we had a right to do, and resume our journey the next day. In the long, lingering twilight, after eating our supper, we walked out on a hill, and as the bright twilight slowly ebbed away, 20 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. Elmer's enthusiasm, which gathers very slowly as compared with my impulsive self, broke forth, "I do not wonder that poets grow here. It is such a pretty country." Early the next morning, with birds singing, I walked over the moor. Steep and rocky in many places, but Oh, what rugged beauty ! With what eagerness I gathered the blue bells, buttercups, daisies, queen of the meadow, heath bloom, heather and other flowers I can not name. I wandered farther and farther away. Up yonder mountain trail amid the crags and rocks, covered with verdure, I saw wending her way upward, a Highland girl, trooping so gracefully along that I thought of the beautiful poem Wordsworth wrote, en- titled the "Sweet Highland Girl." I stalked the grouse as I walked along, and I paused to hear the robins sing. I heard the bleating of some lambs and their echoing cry from crag to crag. Over in a wooded copse some wild birds sang such sweet notes that out of my soul came answering cries. My voice came forth in rapturous tones, and loudly I sang snatches of sweet song. I was in tune with nature's choir, and we all lifted our voices with wondrous power. The angels heard and understood, and paused to catch the sweet refrain ; then flew away to heaven above, to carry the song of nature's love. Was it not a touch of Paradise? A foretaste of Eden life again? Reluctantly I returned to Aberfoyle. We entered our train for Edinburgh and were away from the Highlands and the Trossacks. The word moor seems to be applied to large scopes of coun- try where there are no trees. The Scotch people call a hill a "Fell," and everywhere in the British Isles a stone wall is called a stone dyke. We entered a beautiful farming country. Some ladies en- tered our compartment at a small station. As the train sped along I heard one of them say, "How fine the corn is look- ing." I knew what they meant. They were talking of fields of oats all headed out. There is not a spear of Indian corn to be seen in all this land. We passed fields of peat and We saw little clumps of Scotch thistles. Hay when cut is A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 21 only partially cured. It is put in small ricks, then after two or three weeks, is hauled on a two-wheeled cart, one rick at a time, alongside of the stables, and put up in large ricks, or finely shaped hay stacks, coming to a point at the top. Then nicely thatched with fine, straight hay, cords tied about, so the wind will not lift or scatter. Buildings are too costly in this country to have barns to put hay in. About 10 o'clock we reached Sterling. We were on his- toric ground. We again broke our journey and concluded to explore Sterling Castle. Being hungry, we went into a restaurant and ordered some strawberries and cream, with just a few scones. Beautiful red berries we wondered where they got their color, with so little sunshine. Somebody painted them it was the God of nature, not man. We never saw finer currants than grow here, and the gooseberries are as large as cherries, the best in the world. We walked up little, narrow, old paved streets, scarcely wide enough for teams to pass, with buildings to corre- spond, and were at the entrance of Sterling Castle. Our thoughts went back to nearly 2000 years ago when the Ro- mans invaded this country and taught our savage ancestors how to till the land, and commenced fortifications on this very spot. Then in feudal times, about the twelfth century, this castle was erected. We were shown how the moat was made, the drawbridge arranged, the portcullis operated, and the numerous loopholes, to shoot with bow and arrow at as- sailants. We saw where the battle of Bannockburn was fought, and just beyond on a hill the noble monument erected in memory of Wallace. Here resided Mary, the queen of Scotland, for a time, and just in front of her bedroom win- dow is a tournament ground laid out and nobody living knows how to play the game that former Kings and Queens of Scotland used to play on the same grounds, now forever to be kept (by act of parliament) as the grounds were centuries ago. All castles are built on high rocks or rocky plateaus, in this country, and they would have been inaccessible to this day if guns and gunpowder had not come into use. This A CALIFORNIA^! CIRCLING THE GLOBE. castle is now a recruiting station for a Highland regiment of soldiers, and here we saw for the first time soldiers and sentries in full uniform of the kilts. Getting on another train we again started for Edinburgh, passing by much of interest, for in this land, to an Ameri- can, there is something to attract his attention each turn he makes. We came to the great bridge over the Frith of Forth, where our train crossed it 160 feet above the water level. It is one and one-fifth miles long. It took seven years to build it, and 50,000 tons of steel were used in its construc- tion. As our train pased over we were not conscious of a jar or quiver. The wonderful part of it is there are but three spans of the bridge. Great are the achievements of men. Toward evening our train glided into Waverly station at Edinburgh, the "Modern Athens" of Europe, a city of about 300,000 people. It is one of the most romantic and beauti- fully situated cities in the world. I have seen no city any- where, where there are so many people passing to and fro at seemingly all hours from the railroad trains as in this great station, except in our Philadelphia. We secured good rooms very quickly, in Leith street, only a minute's walk from the general postoffice and station. What a difference as com- pared with Glasgow, not in size, but in character and aspect. Everybody at work in Glasgow a bustling manufacturing city. Here once the Capital of Scotland, with great uni- versities and noble schools, yet on many streets of the older part of the city where its nobility once lived are the many wretched homes of the poor. The public inns or taverns (never called saloons here) were numerous, and many thou- sands carried marks of dissipation and vice in their faces. Many others had a look of hopeless despair, the inevitable result of grinding poverty. We were beginning to come in contact with the poor of Europe. Princess street is the fashionable thoroughfare of the boulevard style, with trees, flowers and walks on one side and fine stores with fashionable hotels over them on the other side. Sir Walter Scott's monument on the side where STREET SCENE IN DAMASCUS A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 23 the little parks are is the handsomest one I ever saw. The design by a poor shepherd boy is graceful, artistic and soul inspiring. It is 200 feet high. We visited John Knox's house on High street. He was the great reformer in Scotland and founder of Presbyterianism. The house projects into the street several feet, and every pleasant day may be seen car- riages full of people, and many pedestrian strangers standing about, gazing at it. The house was built in 1470. On the side, and running around the corner above the first story, used as a store, is this inscription : "Lofe God above all and ye nychbour as ye self." We ascended the stairs outside in the front. The price of admission is sixpence. Then by a corridor and interior stairway came to the entrance of the dining and sitting room of Knox's time. Now this entrance to his rooms is enclosed, a little projection looking up High street. In his day it was simply an open balcony. These rooms are in the third story. The stairway and the old door, with the old-fashioned iron knocker are just the same today. The stairs and threshold are of stone. How these stone steps and threshold are worn. The tramp of feet for cen- turies will grind away the hardest rock. We entered the din- ing room. Here by a window looking up High street is where he frequently preached to. the people in the street. Just here, sitting in a chair, he died on the 24th of November, 1572. The room is quite large, with square and oval corners, a fire- place on one side and at the back a door leading to his bed- room. On the side toward the front was another old door leading to a little entryway, the entrance to his study. This little room, not over 5x7, was built while he lived in the house, October, 1561. Hie said of this little study that he "only wanted room for himself and his Bible." It had only one little half window. In it was the first Bible ever printed in Scotland, 1576 not Knox's, as this was after he died. While the rooms throughout are furnished as in Knox's time there is only one piece of furniture in the house that be- longed to him, an old chair in the study. The rooms are in panel style, and when one of the old doors is closed, it looks 24 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. like the side of the room. There are only portions of the ceiling and sides of the rooms, just the same as when Knox was alive. One can see the difference by close inspection. What interested me greatly was that just by the window where he died, in a jog of the room, was a bit of landscape painting on the old original wall, so dimmed with age that one had to stoop to catch the light from the window, in order to trace the trees and scenery. In sight up the street is St. Giles cathedral, where he preached. Aside from that asso- ciation, we were not particularly interested in the cathedral. In the rear of the cathedral, in Parliament square, is a little bronze tablet in the pavement, marked "J. K., 1572," and this is supposed to mark the spot where John Knox is buried. Still keeping up the street we come to the castle of Edin- burgh. Here we saw the oldest building in Edinburgh, a chapel erected by Queen Margaret over 800 years ago. We saw the crown once worn by the Scottish kings and queens, also the crown jewels. We saw Queen Mary's room, where her sons, James VI of Scotland and James I of England were born. Some of the original ceiling is still in place. We saw old cannon and there were the ever-present soldiers, all dressed in Highland costume. The moats, drawbridges and all about it were interesting. We then went to Holyrood palace, about a mile away. Here Queen Mary lived, and we saw her bedroom and bed, the finery decaying with age. The walls are covered with tapes- try and in their time must have been very handsome. Ad- joining her room is a larger room called the audience cham- ber. It was here John Knox and the queen had such stormy interviews. In this room is another bed, all made up, said to be the bed Charles I slept in. Everywhere you go here in this country to old castles, palaces, cathedrals and abbeys, there are many people like yourself tramping along the same way, from nearly all countries. Yet Americans number the most and Oriental countries none. We rode six miles in the country to see Rosslyn chapel. It was built about 1450. Now only some of the walls are stand- A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 25 ing, as it was destroyed by one of Cromwell's generals. The ride was a delightful one; the country begins just where the city leaves off, and there are little Scotch villages and glimpses of rural life as you drive along. All over the British isles the roads are extremely good, bordered by a hawthorn hedge, not wide, and no ditches at the side. There is not much more than room for two wagons to pass. The grades are cut down and they are the best I ever saw, and are kept in perfect repair. Teams pass one another to the left instead of the right. Through the little villages there is usually a narrow sidewalk on one side. In the fields of grain and by the hedges there were many wild poppies, not golden, but a deep scarlet. Waving in the breeze, with the corn and wheat, they make a striking picture. There came a heavy shower of rain which prevented us from wandering along the banks of the heavily wooded Esk to the romantic home of Wil- liam Drummond, a Scotch poet, called Hawthornden. We then returned to the city and as we had been invited out to tea by a Scottish lady, we spent the evening in her home, and were entertained in royal style. We were in Edinburgh over Sunday. No street cars run- ning until about 10 o'clock, and only last year did they com- mence running on Sunday at any hour. In the forenoon we went to the Wesleyan church (as Meth- odist churches are called here )in Nicholson square. As we enter we noticed on the front, "Erected A. D. 1815." The preacher wore a black gown, and the pulpit was very high. When preaching his head was on a level with the lower tier of seats of the gallery. The sermon and also attendance were good. More singing than in America, and when the benedic- tion is pronounced everybody sits down, which is the custom in all the churches. Monday morning, August 18, we purchased our tickets to Manchester, England. At 6 :2O a. m. we left Waverly sta- tion, which covers twenty-three acres of ground, and one- half of it roofed over. It is the largest station in the United Kingdom. Our train was a slow one, only local. The reason 26 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. we were on this slow poke of a train was we could stop at Melrose Abbey, some thirty miles away, and have about four hours, then catch the fast express on its way to London. All country stations are enclosed with iron fences, buildings or hedges, and you cannot get out without showing your ticket. We saw a rolling, beautiful country, with parks of trees, scattering ones in the fields, sometimes rows of them along the roads. Great flocks of crows were quite common, and now and then a scarecrow set up in the fields reminded us that the farmer had trouble. We met freight trains. All the freight cars are about one-half as long as those you see in America, and scarcely any of them roofed. The open ones, unless loaded with coal or iron, are covered with large rub- ber covers. It looks real strange to see long trains of these short cars covered up. Some of the country was very hilly, yet pasture and cultivation everywhere unless covered with trees. We arrived at Melrose and walked just a short dis- tance to the Abbey through this little country town. Roofless and in ruins, yet its outlines were so imposing and symmetri- cal that we were immediately interested. Built in the twelfth century and battered in the wars of the Reformation, yet it only takes one glance to command your admiration. The carved stones, the beautiful tracing of the foliage, the life- like figures so real, the sculptor's private mark, and the amount of all this work is a marvel to everyone. Sir Walter Scott wrote about it, and on a stone, by a pile of rocks, once the foundation of a mighty pillar, was his favorite seat to view these grand ruins. The more we walked about, the more beauty we saw. It must have taken many men all their lives to carve such delicate work and so many lifelike figures on the walls of this monastery. No two of the figures are alike. There are roses, lilies, thistles, ferns, heaths, oak and ash leaves, and many other kinds of carvings, all chiseled with such a perfect imitation of nature that I doubt if there are sculptors that can equal it today. One figure represents an angel flying away with a message, another one on the outer wall has such a sweet smile, it looks as though the smile DONKEY LOADED WITH WEEDS FOR FUEL NEAR DAMASCUS A TALE SIX THOUSAND MILES LONG. 27 was for you. All these figures and carvings are a part of the walls of the building. The foliage upon the capitals of the pilasters is so finely carved that we took straws and passed through, wondering how such delicate work could be done. As we walked around our feet were treading over the ashes of many a warrior and priest. Just by a large window (no glass in any of the windows) is buried the heart of King Robert Bruce. Here the keeper and his wife, as we were about the only visitors this early in the day, told us a touching in- cident. He said : "Yesterday a lady now visiting in Glasgow, but living in California, brought to me a flower, I think she called it a poppy, and wanted to put it on the little stone marking where the heart of Bruce is buried. She said she had been a widow four years, and this flower had grown on her husband's grave. She had just sent to her servant in California for it." He further said : "We picked a little wreath of ivy you see climbing over the wall to encircle the flower and put it on the stone. She said she was coming again in the evening, when the moon was shining, but I did not see her again, nor do I see the flower." I said : "It rained hard yesterday evening in Edinburgh." He replied: "That must have kept her away, as it rained here, with heavy wind. I presume she has gone. She was staying at the hotel." We looked about. Over in the dirt he picked up a little wet, wilted, faded flower, and knowing that I was from California, he said : "Is this it ?" I took the little bedraggled thing. Was it a poppy? Turning it over, on just one petal I saw the color, one little bright golden spot, no larger than a tear drop. I said : "It is a golden poppy and from California." With loving tenderness we replaced the flower. My heart was full. I walked out into the cloisters. I paced to and fro, wrapt in reverie. I did not even know the lady's name. I repelled the thought of ascertaining her name on the hotel register. What an orchid of excellence in thought and af- fection. What a blossom of sentiment. Perchance the tiny spot of golden brightness that I saw in identifying the poppy was kept by the lady's tear of sympathy. Oh, sentiment, what a 28 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. talismanic charm thou art, eclipsing in real worth any crown of jewels ever worn. How proud I was that from beneath the sunny skies of Golden California such bright, sweet, tender and loving sentiment grew, and typified by this golden poppy, was carried 6000 miles away to blossom and rest over the last resting place of the heart of the most heroic of all Scottish kings. With another look at the roofless, yet beautiful walls of Melrose Abbey, where each interstice is simply crushed oys- ter shell, we walked back to the station and jumped on the fast London express, and in the next chapter will tell you some- thing of England. II. tendon, 9aris and The car we entered at Melrose had a corridor on one side and doors leading into compartments first and third class. On an electric button was this notice : "An attendant will ac- company you to the dining car." It was vestibuled and had two elegant dining cars in front, first and third class. The cars were long and handsome inside and out. The train fairly flew across the country and by all the small stations. The country for the first hour or two was very beautiful, with large trees and just uneven enough to charm the eye every way one looks. The conductor came along, saying, "Did you book here?" meaning Melrose. All ticket-selling places are marked book- ing stations and when we want a ticket we simply say we want to book to destination. At Ravenswood and from there to St. Boswell's, at this season, is the best looking farming country I ever saw. Har- wick is a good-sized city. Then we came to quite a stretch of country, treeless and looking poor and wet. Such country is called moors. I saw patches of bright looking flowers now and then and a Scotch lady in our compartment said they were "ling flowers." We soon came to the river Eden, and for some distance, twisting and winding along at express train speed, we followed downward the course of this river. For the first time since landing at Glasgow, the clouds began to look as one sees them in winter time in California, distinct clouds and patches of blue sky. Everywhere in this country 30 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. if the weather is cloudy and threatening, which seems to be the rule, you will hear after the usual morning salutation, "It is a dull morning," or "It looks dull today." The millions of people in the British isles who do not travel to other countries have no conception or idea as to distance or heat, as Americans do, and the masses travel very little just little, cheap holiday excursions to some near-by place at long intervals. (I am not speaking of the commercial classes.) At Carlisle we were on English soil. For many miles the country was rocky and there were many stone dykes, used as fences. There are so many new and pleasing features of home life and scenery to see on an English railway that each hour is a delight and pleasure. At Hellifield we changed from our London train to a train for Manchester, passing through Bradford, another large city. From Bradford to Manchester the manufacturing plants are so thick that it is almost like one city. A peculiarity about them all is that each factory has a very tall brick chimney and everywhere they seemed like tall monuments, except they represent the pres- ent and not the past. The houses are also mostly made of brick, not stone, as in Scotland. The train ran very fast, with scarcely any stops. At times there was a perfect labyrinth of tracks, with other roads crossing, but never on the same grade. No ringing of loco- motive bells or whistling, as there are no crossings, always under or over the track. We did not stay long in Manchester. We concluded it was a thrifty, manufacturing city and its ship canal, recently completed to the sea, is giving its busi- ness men and interests a new impetus. Shortly after reaching Manchester we again took train for Liverpool. Interesting at every turn and step in manufactur- ing, farming and gardening, with glimpses of English rural life, is the country seen traveling between these large cities, if one is a close observer. Just before sundown we arrived in Liverpool. We soon secured a comfortable room in a hotel and retired early. The landlady, a good motherly woman, in showing me where my room was, said, "Do you LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 31 know how to turn off the gas?" I replied, "I think I do." We found Liverpool a well built, good looking city of about 500,000 population. Many of the larger trucks had horses harnessed one ahead of the other, thus driving along with the load tandem fashion. We walked to the water front on the Mersey. What wonderful docks ! Some of them floating, held in place with great chains, all built of solid masonry. There is an elevated railway running along the water front for several miles. We climbed the stairway and rode back and forth. There were many ships, large and small, an- chored either in the Mersey or lying along the piers. We saw immense dry docks large enough to take in the largest ves- sels, some of them occupied by ships undergoing repair. On the city side of all this distance were immense warehouses, filled with all the different products of the world. We walked out on one of the outer piers, connected with many other piers, all forming a continuous sea front, apparently rising and falling with the tide. Here ships from all parts of the world take and land passengers and their luggage. While standing there a" large steamer from the Isle of Man landed many passengers. Then came a large ship, the Westernland, and for nearly an hour we stood there with hundreds of other people, watching a continuous row of passengers passing on board, all bound for Philadelphia. This was an American steamship, large and handsome looking. We were loth to leave such a scene of animation. We went to a booking office and purchased tickets for London. The weather was delightful and we chose the Midland route to see the best scenery. Even the railroad embankments are grassed over and hay mown on them no waste anywhere. If a side hill is being washed or cut away, a stone embankment is built to protect it. American reapers were in some fields at work cutting their corn (oats). An English lady in our compartment, at a small town, as our train flew along, said, "Look at those Gypsies." The scene, a few old covered wagons, with poor horses, looked very much the same as I have seen them camped on the 32 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. river bottom at Los Angeles. Gypsies, I think, are about the same everywhere. Instead of a train boy coming along to ask you to buy anything, especially fruit, the arrangement on this road was very fine. At every large town where we stopped, there came a nicely dressed boy along the side of the train, with fruit, scones and sometimes cups of tea on a tray, just telling you what he had in a quiet way. You simply opened the car door and beckoned to him if you wanted to purchase. We ran through some very wild scenery, steep, rocky hills, deep cuts and long tunnels. This hilly country had scarcely any trees, yet abounded in rock, and there was considerable stone quarrying. After passing Derbyshire the country flat- tens out. I think the entire southeastern part of England" is a flat country, with very few hills and ridges, as compared with the rest. At Leicester our compartment became crowded, fourteen, small and large. The porter at the station said, "Only one portion today," meaning only one section of the train. There are plenty of guides and porters at each sta- tion, all dressed in uniform, who answer all questions and direct passengers in changing trains. We saw a few apple trees, while in front of the houses were nasturtiums, marigolds, pansies and many other flowers. The change from country to city, as we entered London, was quite marked, and then one cannot see much from the train, as in tunnels, under the streets it passes to the station. At a little after 3 o'clock p. m. we alighted from the train at Saint Pancras station, and were in the largest city in the world. We summoned a hansom and were swiftly driven to the Waverly hotel, and found a nice room, with double beds, electric lights, well furnished and with three large double windows. This room, with breakfast, costs us one crown each per day. We took a long walk on Oxford street to Hyde Park that evening and were wonderfully impressed with the crowded street, the masses hurrying to and fro, the two-story omni- buses filled with people, the cabs everywhere flying about. STREET SCENE IN LONDON LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 33 On an area of several square miles in the very heart of Lon- don there are no street cars, only lines running outside this center. There are no elevated roads anywhere. There is, as called, a two-penny tube, an underground railway, running in portions of the city. This is the one Mr. Yerkes of Chi- cago is trying to manipulate. The next morning, having read in the papers that the Shah of Persia would take a train at Charing Cross station, we concluded to see a little of royalty. No one can get their regular breakfasts at hotels until about 8 o'clock. After breakfast we walked in the direction of Charing Cross station for the purpose of seeing the Shah. We sauntered leisurely along, feeling as rich as a king, look- ing at the sights of London. We came to Trafalgar square, and while looking at the statues of four large bronzed copper lions I happened to remember that I left our money at the hotel between the mattresses, with the door unlocked. I told Elmer, and in a cool, matter-of-fact, nonchalant way he said : "That ends the whole business and finishes the trip." We had two sovereigns, one-half of a crown, a few pennies and some halfpence with us. We immediately hailed a hansom, telling the driver to quickly drive us to the hotel. He cracked his whip and we were off. It seemed to me that that particu- lar horse was the slowest one in all London, and that at every turn everybody else was in our driver's way. What we could see did not interest us any more. Oh, how slow we seemed to go ! We reached the hotel, and leaving Elmer to pay the driver, I quickly ran up the stairs, instead of ring- ing up the elevator. I reached the room. What expectation as I reached in my hand. Hopefulness I still had left. It was there intact. Turning to Elmer, an aphorism I sometimes use in California came forth involuntarily, "It is better to be born lucky than rich." We walked out this time towards the Bank of England, over a mile away. We had lost interest in the Shah. How curious human nature is. Will we ever un- derstand ourselves? Are we not all surprised at times, caus- ing us to wonder at our changeable moods? As we reached Threadneedle street, we walked all the way 34 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. around the Bank of England, looking curiously in at the dif- ferent entrances, where pompous looking and richly uniformed men were pacing to and fro, like sentinels. Walking around this bank (covering three acres) seemed to. change us again. In our feelings we were richer than any depositor in the Bank of England. Consulting our watches, we concluded that we might yet have time to see the Shah. We jumped on an omnibus running along the Strand, and in about thirty minutes came in sight of the open square in front of Charing Cross station. It was filled with people, with just room for cabs and omnibuses to pass. We hastily alighted and worked our way up to the edge of a strip of pavement, where sawdust had been thrown. Everybody was on the eve of expectation. "Here he comes," one sang out. First came an outrider or two, then ten or twelve men on black steeds, all richly caparisoned, the riders with armor on, rifles and swords, plumes, gold and red stripes, all looking to me as I would picture knights of the medieval ages. Then came the carriages. The leading one contained the Shah, his interpreter, an English Lord and another Per- sian. The remaining carriages contained his suite accompany- ing him. All the Persians, as far as I noticed, had long, fierce- looking moustaches. The coachmen were dressed in red coats, white trousers, black silk hats, trimmed in gold the usual traditional style. On alighting from the carriage to take the railway train, a red velvet carpet was spread along the platform for the Shah and his suite to walk on. We had seen the Shah of Persia. One Sunday afternoon we attended Sabbath School in City Road Chapel, where John Wesley used to preach. No adults in attendance and not over sixty present, mostly children. More singing than teaching; rather a poor affair. I learned afterwards that some of the older people were there but had a class service in another room, at the same hour. In the evening we crossed London bridge to attend the Metropolitan Temple (Spurgeon's). There is a little yard in front, and wide steps leading up to the main doors. I was LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. surprised on arrival to find hundreds of people filling this space waiting for the doors to open. An open-air meeting was also in progress. We went to a little side door and told the keeper we were strangers. He let us in, enabling us to choose our seat in the first gallery. The room is built in the form of an oblong circle, with two galleries all around, one tier above the other. The first gallery had six rows of seats and the upper one five. The preacher's pulpit was high enough so that when preaching his head was on a level with the center of the first gallery. In a very few minutes that great church, seating 3700 people, filled up. No instrumental music of any kind; in front of the pulpit, a little lower down and facing the preacher, was room for fifteen or twenty sing- ers, which was the choir. Just back of the pulpit and only as wide, was a tier of seats up across the gallery for the elders of the church. A door in the rear where they had a prayer meeting before the service gave them entrance. Still the peo- ple came. The pulpit stairs, all the steps in the aisles of the galleries were full and some of the windows had people sit- ting in them. No more room, yet hundreds more came and stood up during the service. There were over 4000 people present. Not a stained glass window, no memorial ones, nor any needless ornamentation. It was a right sort of a church, and that kind brings the people. The pastor, Mr. Spurgeon's son, was away. A Mr. MacNeil from Scotland preached. I think he is a Presbyterian. There were plenty of hymn books. Everybody had one. Everybody sang that could or wanted to. I did not miss the instrumental music. The preaching was excellent. I only wish I had time and space to picture it it was about doubting Thomases, full of illustrations. How strange it is that the preaching that draws and holds people is always full of incidents of every-day life, woven into the sermon for illustration. In the morning we had attended service at the City Temple. The pastor, whom you all know, has a world-wide reputation. Dr. Parker was absent and Mr. William L. Watkinson, a 36 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. Wesleyan Methodist, preached. The large audience was so still that I wondered. Not a sound except an occasional cough caused by a cold. The music was grand, both instru- mental and vocal. As is the custom here, everybody sits down when the benediction is given. A little box with a groove in it is passed for the offerings, and the rattle of the coins as they drop in is like the patter of large drops of rain on a roof. We visited St. Paul's Cathedral, the largest Protestant church in the world; no service when we were present. It is very imposing, stately, stiff, ecclesiastical look- ing, full of statuary, costly windows, enormous stone pillars. I was weary and in one of the seats commenced reading a paper. A clerically dressed gentleman came along and said : "Against the regulations, sir, to read a paper." I replied with much courtesy, "Thank you, sir," putting the paper in my pocket. We went to the Kensington Museum and in the Indian de- partment saw much clever work in models of houses. We saw also many old tombs, and pillars from religious temples, some of them dating back hundreds of years. How eager man seems to be in every age, to erect something to remind other people coming after him of his presence. We saw carved on stone their manner of catching wild elephants down to the second century, represented by tying a female elephant to a tree, which calls out the male elephants. Then they are represented as fighting, and Indians tying their hind legs to a tree with strong ropes. Aristotle, long before Christ, spoke of this manner of catching wild elephants in his writings. We went into a Persian room and saw silk woven with threads of gold, called "Susura" work. The Japanese and Chinese weave differently. We saw a Persian carpet, the museum having just paid 2500 pounds sterling for it. What harmony in the weaving! In this fine weaving it is said the foreman sits in the center singing a song. Each weaver as hi hears the song, works according to the notes, even to the dip- ping of his yarn into the different dyes. Their language has very many half tones, while ours has but few. The name, "The OLD SITE OF MEMPHIS (DURING NILE OVERFLOW) LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 37 Holy Carpet," indicated that this one was woven by singing a religious song. I went into the Chinese gallery. I saw one screen costing looo pounds. "Beauty," did I say? "Yes," yet it rather seemed to be a dream from fairy land. I went into the Japanese gallery and I saw an eagle made of iron which cost looo pounds. An American iron maker, even if he had skill, would fail in patience. I saw an incense burner made for a Japanese temple, so elaborate that the museum authori- ties paid 1586 pounds for it. Many other things we saw in works of art and beauty. Truly one half of the world knows but little of what the other half is doing. We also went into the British Museum. We saw mummies as old as Abraham ; and one man in a stone coffin who lived on the earth before Abraham's time. We were much inter- ested in the Rosetta stone, discovered at the mouth of the Nile in 1799, and through its discovery, and the writing on its surface, it was possible to read the language on Egyptian monuments and tombs. This stone furnished the long looked for key. There were old parchments of Scripture and much papyri, some of it years B. C, the ink looking fresh and bright. We also went into the Guildhall, which is in the center of the old city where great titles are conferred. We are quite sure that we at last found the largest book in the world, an album six feet long, three and one-half feet wide and about eight inches thick, weighing seven hundred pounds. There were brick taken from the palace of Nimrod, large carved stones from Nineveh, dating before Jonah's time. We were in the Tate gallery of art. Such pictures ! It seemed that we were in a new world, and never saw art be- fore. Sir Edwin Landseer's own work of animals, famous the world over was here several pictures. Artists, would that I were one ! We went to the Tower of London. Such an array of ar- mored Knights, horses and kings ! Mute and motionless they stand, representing how some of our forefathers lived. The use of guns and powder rendered all this work useless. We 38 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. saw where many were beheaded, and could the old stones in the walls talk, what strange, weird stories they could tell, because it is true as said, "Truth is stranger than fiction." We climbed the monument buHt in memory of the great fire of 1666. For miles and miles the city lay, as far as our eyes could see either way. Up from the depths of this great city below, there came a sound as of waves on a rocky shore. A mighty city where it is said, "one dies every five minutes." We stood on London Bridge and as we saw the multitude passing and repassing, it seemed to us that the procession would never end yet it began centuries before we were born. We walked into Waterloo Street Station. For an hour we watched a continual line of hansoms driving up to unload passengers with their luggage, who were about to take an express train for Southampton, there to go on board a steamer bound for Africa. There were at times a dozen hansoms busy unloading their passengers at once. Said a young Eng- lishman standing by me, "I was born and raised in London, and this sight is as new to me as to you. I am just waiting for my passport as I go to South Africa." It was a rare scene we witnessed, even for London. Their luggage and ways were not American. One evening we took a train to Syden- ham, where the Crystal Palace is. In front of the palace was to be a fine display of fireworks in honor of the Shah of Persia's attendance. I never saw better fireworks. The immense grounds in front were lighted up by one-half a million gas jets, taking one hundred miles of piping to place them in position. We found many thousands of people and military bands playing. These many gas jets were of many bright colors, the electrical fountains illuminated with a variety and change of color. Was it not a fairy scene? For an hour the display of fireworks, the sending up of balloons, the rockets of many colors, the set pieces among them was a picture of the Shah of Persia and another the coronation scene automobiles running a race, and many others. Will we ever forget the scene? LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 39 We visited the houses of Parliament and saw much gold and glitter. Many costly pictures were there representing great men and deeds, all in English history. The House of Lords the gilded chamber, it is called with the throne for the King to sit on when he opens Parliament, the frescoes, richly stained windows, highly decorated walls and ceiling, could we but feel out of place? The House of Commons, a little larger and as imposing in appearance, did it excite our admiration? No, we are plainer people. On each side of the houses are lobbies, and be- tween the two, at the end of the lobbies, is Central Hall, octagonal in shape, and it has a very rich Mosaic pavement. It is also wonderfully adorned with decorations, frescoes and statuary. As we walked out, "Big Ben," a bell in the clock tower, pealed forth in sonorous tones the time of day; a bell that in the night time, when the city is a little quiet, is heard over a large part of London. We walked to Buck- ingham Palace. At the gates sentinels in rich uniform were pacing to and fro. It is not a very nice looking palace in front. We rode one day out to Greenwich, and walked or sat under the trees in Greenwich Park. Chestnut trees, the largest seven feet in diameter, large elms, oaks, mountain ash covered with red berries, and thorn trees, resembling in leaf and color, only not so large, the fine leafed oak of California. We were 155 feet above sea level and could look for miles down the Thames, with ship docks and warehouses as far as we could see. A herd of deer were quietly grazing by our side. Green grass, with wild flowers peeping out of the grass, with many cultivated flowers about the yards and in the park, with weather like that of Redlands in the winter was it not enjoyable? We hunted up the little old crooked street that Charles Dickens wrote about, where Old Curiosity Shop is located, built 300 years ago; on through Billingsgate fish market, won- dering where all the fish came from ; went to the house where John Wesley lived and died. We were in his study. The bookcase he used is there, about seven feet wide, with glass 40 A CALIFORN1AN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. doors at the top and secretary style at the bottom. His con- ference chair and study chair sit there. His library is not there; it is in Bristol, Kingwood and Richmond. We also saw one little tiny lock of his hair and the old collection plates used in the old chapel. We were in the bedroom where he died. A painting on the wall representing the death scene is untrue. There were but eight present when he died. We saw his bureau with the secret drawer; the old eight day clock, built in the time of Wesley, by a refugee from the con- tinent, running when Wesley died in years ago, and still running, ticking the time away. We heard it strike three o'clock on the afternoon of August 26th. There is nobody living that ever saw John Wesley, or that ever heard him preach. Yet, could this old clock talk, it would say, "I saw and heard him and my ticking is just the same today." We saw his pen and the penholder he wrote with and many of his old letters. He had a little room just back of his bed- room, which he used for secret prayer. We went into this room. Just back of the church he is buried, and by his side lies Adam Clark. His ancestry can be traced back to the tenth century. There is only one living descendant by the name of Wesley, and he belongs to the Theistic church. We went into the church and saw the pulpit Wesley used, which is still in use, though it has been cut down about one-half. There are new pews and a new floor. The pillars supporting the gallery are new and cost one hundred pounds each. They are of marble and were donated by different countries. The keyboard of the organ is on the floor in front of the pulpit, while the organ is in the gallery in two parts, one on each side of the church, fully fifty feet from the organist. Just across the road from Wesley's church and house is the Bunnehill cemetery. A curious sign at the entrance reads thus : "Reserved as a place of recreation for the public." Over two hundred years ago, at the time of the great plague in London, the victims were buried in this ground. Almost all the land and houses in England and Scotland WESLEY'S GRAVE CITY ROAD CHAPEL, LONDON LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 41 are under what is called the "feu" system. The titled men usually own all the land in great estates and the farms and ground for the houses are rented out on an average of about three pounds an acre. However, leases in Scotland are perpetual, while in England the usual time is 99 years. For this reason farm improvements are usually better in Scotland. Everybody is polite and say "thank you," with a rising inflection to everything you do. There is a heavy fine in London for "hollering" on the streets, so all the newsboys and men selling papers have a large placard fastened in front of them, noting the principal news, the headings and other leading features. And all are quiet. The radius of free delivery is ten miles from the general post office. Think of it, twenty miles across the city each way. We have not seen an American pie in all the British Isles. I believe that if some American lady would commence mak- ing them in London she could make millions of dollars, as well as of pies. You are expected in Europe to get your breakfast at the hotel. In sitting down to the table, we have a small plate for bread and butter, and there is one dessert spoon, four knives and three forks to each sitting. You have porridge first, if you want it, then either of four kinds of fish, then bacon or ham and eggs or roast beef if you prefer. No po- tatoes, plenty of bread and butter, tea or coffee and lots of style. If your bill is not paid while eating the waiter will put it under a little plate. We have booked a passage of nearly 4000 miles of travel on the European continent, intending to visit all the capitals. The passage cost us eleven pounds, nineteen shillings and six- pence each, about one and one-half cents a mile. We leave England and Scotland with regret. We like the people and many of their ways. This Saturday morning we have our luggage ready, are taken by an omnibus to the Victoria sta- tion. As our train started, I caught sight of the Prince of 42 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. Wales' train standing at the station. At times in leaving the city the grade was so high that we were even with the roofs of the houses ; and then again we were in tunnels under the streets. As we emerged from the city we were again charmed with English scenery. At the station of Purly, we saw whole rows of new houses and many English oaks. Wild blackberries were get- ting ripe and we envied the chance of picking them. As we neared the coast the trees became scarce and there were long, hilly slopes of country, mostly grazing land, covered with a mantle of green. Winding in and about them we ran along a wharf and walked across the pier to a steamer. We were in Newhaven, just a little hamlet, yet the little harbor was protected by a stone breakwater. On a hill facing the ocean we saw cannon mounted, and troops stationed, all ready to defend any invasion. Our train was a long one and several hundred passengers from it crowded on to the steamer. Nearly all of them were French or Dutch, not many speaking our language. All were extremely well dressed. Truly we were getting away from England and English speaking peo- ple. The sea was calm, the wind light, and somber gray clouds overhung sea and land. The first and second class passengers were divided like the sheep and the goats. Nobody wanted to stay in the stuffy saloons, therefore nearly all were on deck. And as there were not seats enough, many had to stand. A few square- rigged sailing vessels and two steamers were all we saw in crossing. We arrived at Dieppe, passing a few fishing sloops, a yacht and several small steamers as we came into our slip or pier, almost facing the ocean. What a change from sober, staid old England! Hundreds of boys, men, women and girls were on the wharf, dressed in all sorts of costumes. Some wore hats and all were wildly gesticulating. Surely this is "La Belle France." Dieppe is a city of considerable size. We were ushered LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 43 into a large room on the wharf, where our baggage was ex- amined by military-looking custom house officers. We soon had ours chalk-marked and passed directly from the wharf into a train of cars standing on the street, waiting for us. The excitable French people were roped off and the other side of the vestibuled corridor train was locked. We entered the cars and heard everybody speaking French. Then we be- gan to realize what it is to be in a foreign country. Soon the train started for Paris. There was not room for all the passengers to sit, and many were compelled to stand in the corridors. The train started slowly at first, up a street, the people waving their hats, and some shouting "au revoir." The French locomotive is very unlike an English one. It whistled loud and often over the entire way to Paris. Soon we were passing along between silver birch trees, and by the side of green meadows. We saw many apple trees, doubt- less the Normandy pippin. The churches we saw all seemed to be Catholic, and the cemeteries about them had more iron crosses and more ornamental iron work than tombstones. The land was quite hilly near the coast, though there were many trees, with many nice looking homes nestled among them. Some were of brick, with tiled roofs, older ones of stone, with thatched roofs. All the land was under culti- vation. Full of romance, interwoven into its history, is this part of Normandy. We reached Rouen, a city of nearly 400,000 peo- ple, forty miles from Dieppe. As our train wound along on the hillside we had a good view of the city. We could easily locate the cathedrals. On a board in the station were posted letters and telegrams for unknown persons. Leaving Rouen, there are large areas of land used for gardening. How neat they looked, men and women working in them, yet at this time the sun was setting, partially ob- scured by clouds. On we sped, reaching Vernon in another forty miles, beautifully situated on the Seine. We were now in a flat, open country, given over to farming, with some manufactories about the towns. The lingering twilight lighted 44 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. up the hovel of the poor peasant, as well as the elegant chateau of the rich. It gilded them alike in colors more lovely than any artist can paint; the moving train, the grace- ful birch and elm trees, the fields of corn (oats) being har- vested, the cattle grazing in the small pastures", the hay gath- ered into small, pointed stacks, the birds hunting for their homes at night ; and as the train ambled along our eyes caught glimpses of the silvery Seine, the ever-pleasing green of the meadows and the bright gleam of wild flowers from field and dale. Was it not a scene to enrapture one? From here to Paris the shades of night cut off our view. We arrived in the Paris station at 8:15 p. m., and struggled along in the crowd through the station. We called a "Vic- toria," when a man grabbed Elmer's satchel and persistently kept it. He could talk English ; said it was best to get a cab on the street outside, got one, and as the cab drove up we got in. I gave him a few centimes, and he said he was "ye interpreter," so I gave him half a franc. Our cab driver had been directed to drive us to Hotel St. Romaine, and we soon arrived there. We had two francs sorted out for the cab fare and twenty centimes as the driver's fee. I ran into the hotel, telling Elmer to keep the cab. I rang the bell and a chamber maid came running as I walked up the stairs. I wanted rooms, holding up two fingers. "Je Madame," I said, "two Messiurs." She talked away in French, and see- ing that I did not understand, motioned me down stairs, and at another entrance called a waiter who could talk English a little, and we hired two rooms. Motioning to Elmer, he paid the cabman, who demurred and wanted one-half franc more. A policeman came along and made him move off. We had paid the regular fare and the usual fee to the driver. We were in Paris. We walked out on the boulevards; the cafes have a line of tables and chairs on the sidewalks. Hundreds of people sat at these tables in the open air, sipping all sorts of drinks. Summer evenings, a good part of Paris is out of doors, whole LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 45 families sitting on the sidewalks. This picture we saw at 10 p. m. the evening of our arrival. Sunday morning we started out to find some church. We found that we were only a little ways from the Tuilleries and their gardens, just about in the center of the city. We could find no Protestant church, so we enquired for the largest Catholic one. We called it "Notre Dame." Nobody seemed to know it by that name, but called it as we would to leave off the "e" on the last word. We found the cathedral. A beg- gar sat at the door; just inside a nun stood holding a collec- tion plate. A little farther along a sinister-looking monk sat behind a little desk on a raised platform with a variety of coins on a plate. As I went by he pushed the plate towards me, with an appealing look. I walked along. Services were in progress. We soon discovered that everybody paid to get in. A temporary light fence was set up with a narrow entrance. A boy stood on one side and a nun on the other. It was amusing to see strangers go in and the boy or nun would speak to them. No one passed those portals to take part in the worship without paying. However, there was a wide walk all the way around the services, behind the mon- strous pillars, and nobody to ask pay. We walked around. In one open space behind the services and leading to them, a man dressed in a showy uniform stood and with a cane motioned back any one passing. There were more people walking around than went in to the services. Many of them stopped at the different shrines and bowed low in worship. The stained glass, the statuary, and the size of the cathedral are on a grand scale. As we walked back to the hotel, stores, cafes, building trades, street work everything was in fulll swing; no regard for Sunday; well dressed, gay, vivacious, light-hearted and merry all seemed to be. Sunday afternoon, as we could look over in the Rue Tivoli from our windows, we saw passing each way great crowds of people with cabs and automobiles, even in the rain, as all Paris makes Sunday afternoon one grand holiday. 46 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. Monday morning we went over to Versailles on the cars. It is about twelve miles southeast of Paris. The weather was very fine a bright, cool September day. The train circled a range of hills most of the way; plenty of trees, shrubbery and flowers, and new houses. Brick is used in building and red tile for the roofs. There are iron balconies in front of many of the buildings. Everywhere in Paris, if not an iron balcony in front, then an iron railing crosses each window. The win- dows are hung on a pair of hinges like double doors, and each window is covered with a lace curtain. The people open these windows, sew, read and sit in or by them. There are out- side blinds, usually open, only closed when it storms. This description applies to nearly all of Paris, except the public buildings and now and then a larger block. The whole of Paris is composed of buildings from six to seven stories high, quite uniform in appearance, with usually a sloping roof, partially Mansard in style. I think there is a law compelling owners to paint every ten years, therefore the city has a bright, neat appearance in keeping with the looks of the people. We saw many locust trees in the yards on our way to Ver- sailles. The drives, the fountains when playing, the artificial lakes, the shaded walks ,with statuary in many places as we walked about the immense palace grounds at Versailles were a surprise to us. We were disappointed that the palace was closed as we wanted to see the Hall of Mirrors, where the King of Prussia was crowned Emperor of Germany in Janu- ary, 1871. We returned to Paris in the afternoon. We visited the Eiffel tower and ascended by elevator to the top. There had been a sharp shower of rain, clearing the smoke away, and the clouds also. We were about rooo feet high. The sun was shining brightly, and just late enough in the afternoon to catch nearly every building. What a view ! A city of about three millions of people, said to be "the finest looking city in the world," was spread out before us. The rays of this sparkling sunshine lighted up spire, tower, dome, monuments, parks, OLDEST PYRAMID IN EGYPT NEAR MEMPHIS LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 47 boulevards lined with trees, Napoleon's tomb richly gilded, old cathedrals, statuary, government barracks with troops drilling, square miles of buildings where streets are too nar- row even at this eagle's height to see, triumphal arches one of them the largest in the world, and on the only elevation in Paris broad, spacious avenues, twelve of them diverging from one point, and winding in and through them all, just like a ribbon of blue spanned by thirty curved bridges is the river Seine. Many pleasure steamers, laden with passengers, steaming along, nothing like it in all the world! Six great railways come into Paris, and we could trace their trains and locate their magnificent stations in different sections of the city. Many times we walked around the top of Eiffel tower. I have been to the top of Washington monument and those of you who have seen that tall marble column, a landmark all over Washington, can imagine a little of our elevation, as we were nearly twice as high. Reluctantly we came down to earth again. As we left, the smoke and haze of a great city was gathering. The veil had been lifted by the sharp shower of rain. Never will we catch such a view and of such a city again. We left Paris in the morning. While eating breakfast the hotel proprietor called a Victoria. As we paid our bill, a stamp of ten centimes was added for us to pay for. _(I n Lon- don all bills over two pounds have to be stamped.) The pro- prietor had the waiter and porter for us to fee as we started off, which we did. Our cabman drove us rapidly to the Nord Station, in the northern part of the city. We gave him his fee in addition to the cab fare. There are many soldiers to be seen on the .streets of Paris. Our train was ready for Brussels. We showed our tickets to the gate-keeper, also to two guards in- side, and they directed us to our car. The train was an ele- gant one, the best we had seen anywhere. The wide, uphol- stered seats were marked three places and we found a com- partment with only four in and took the other two. All the passengers were talking, but none in our language. As our 48 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. train was leaving the city many other trains were coming in. A uniformed trainman came in, counting the passengers and another behind talking in French to all of us. We passed rapidly out of the city, as these through express trains make excellent time. Both sides of Vichy we saw miles and miles of gardens. No hedges and scarcely any trees. What trees there were are planted on the sides of the nar- row roads, and trimmed for many feet upwards. In looking sideways across the country and under these trees it seemed like looking on a mirage. The peasants, both men and women, were working in the fields. Every inch of ground was culti- vated, yet such little patches of a kind in one place. Then came forests of small trees, all in full leaf, then stretches of farming lands, then a forest of larger trees ; then came the collector of tickets. Taking Elmer's ticket he looked at it, then commenced talking to him in an excited way. Elmer said, using a California Spanish phrase, "Quien Sabe." Still he talked. Finally he wrote something on it commencing "Voyageur" and took my ticket, writing the same. I showed it to a man sitting beside me, and he laughed and told a lady and she laughed and looked ?.t us; evidently there was trou- ble of some sort. Soon we saw by the stations that, while we were going to Brussels, we were not on the route our tickets read. We saw so many tiny little fields over such large stretches of country. We passed by the side of a canal. The boats were all brown, trimmed with white. There were hundreds of them, in some places the whole width of the canal, five abreast. The peasants were reaping grain by hand. I saw a thresher in a field at work. Our first stop at 10:15 was at St. Goneoten. We saw by our tickets we should have been at Amiens, many miles to the left. I saw the peasants using oxen, two yokes of them in one team. No fences ; cattle herded ; a very fine farming country ; soil of light color. About il o'clock the country looked entirely different; hedges, apple trees, more forest, lines of trees at regular spaces, look- ing in color like olive trees. Villages built of brick; all new LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 49 houses have bright tile roofs, and the farmers live in the villages. At a little after n o'clock we came to the frontier. Everybody unlocked and opened their satchels. We did ours. The custom house inspector looked at them and passed along. The collector came and carried our tickets away. We saw all the officials of the station in a bunch talking about our tickets, with their hands flying and much excited. Then they came, talking vociferously all the time, and wanted us to pay our fare to Mons, one franc each. We paid it, wondering what they would do with us there. They still kept the tickets. We were in Belgium. The train ran swiftly along. At Mons all the officials of the station again gathered about our tickets and were much excited. They called us out of the car, talking to us all the time. We could not understand a word, but finding a man that could talk a little English, we told him to tell them that "we showed our tickets to three offi- cials in Paris and they directed us to take this train." They allowed us to enter and the train moved on. We passed through a growing forest of small trees. It had been trimmed up and thinned out. Every limb as large as a lead pencil was corded up for wood. What saving thrift ! Americans know not the meaning of the word. We ran into Brussels. Nearly all of the buildings are built of brick. The conductor carried our tickets to the head official of the station. He very politely returned them to us, tearing out the ride to Brussels, and we passed out of the gate. We had ridden to Brussels over an entirely different route than our tickets called for. We went to our banker and changed twenty dollars. We got three kinds of money. French is used in Belgium, but we had to have money for Holland and Germany. There are so many names that we got a book to tell us what the values of different kinds were, and tried to keep them in separate pockets. Yet, as we purchased any- thing, we would still get for change pieces we had not seen. Those we put in our vest pockets until we could consult the book. Brussels is a very interesting city. We saw dogs hitched 50 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. to carts, usually hitched under, and they would pull as the man or woman pushed. When standing still the dog would lie down in his harness, under the cart. I saw a hearse all encircled with wreaths of beautiful flowers, waiting in the street. The house door opened. The entrance was full of men and women dressed in black, all wearing that soft, sub- dued, far-away look that is always seen at a funeral. Not long after we saw a wedding party in carriages, all dressed in faultless attire, wearing that bright, bouyant, hopeful look usually seen on such occasions. Are not such pictures seen in our California? Is not human nature the same everywhere? Our surroundings from birth, education, training and tem- perament make us seem, and we are, different, yet there is a depth in the human heart that is "akin" to all the world. We visited the town hall in Brussels. The council cham- ber, with its rich tapestry, paintings, its large mirrors and the paneled wood work, was a revelation. The different rooms, with pictures as real as life, fresco painting, inlaid floors of oak and figures in alabaster of exquisite beauty. The banqueting hall, with its elaborate chandeliers and its paintings were so real that it seemed real life was in them. It all seemed to us like some fabled dream. In the picture galleries we admired the paintings more than any we saw in London. The color, life and animation of these pictures were more than real to us. Our very souls were touched, and we drank long draughts of their exquisite coloring and beauty As we ate our breakfast at the hotel, we admired the dining room. It had large windows of stained glass, with the trac- ing of flowers and leaves almost as true as nature. As we came into Antwerp we passed a line of earth forti- fications and saw many soldiers working on them. There was mound, moat, some masonry, which probably concealed cannon. The earthworks were in all shapes and looked like they were preparing passages and concealing mines under- ground. We saw the same in passing out of Antwerp, as our train circled the city just outside of the fortifications. The entire city is being strongly fortified. Antwerp, like LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 51 Brussels and all these Dutch towns, is built of brown brick, which is pleasing to the eye, as there, is color in the trim- mings. I saw women digging potatoes in the fields. Just before passing out of Antwerp I saw one man standing on a log sawing it through lengthwise. There are surprises at every turn in the scenery. One knows not what to expect. We soon came to miles and miles of pine forest, planted, seem- ingly, as thick as it could grow. None of it large, all sizes, the largest is twenty feet high. At Esschen there were bush hedges and again farming and forest. Now and then large stretches of shrub in full bloom, of a reddish purple. I think it was like the heath seen in Scotland. Even among the pine trees planted in places this flower blooms, cropping out like red velvet woven in among the green trees, and thus creat- ing a horoscope of beauty unequalled in any land or clime. Our train stopped at Rosendaal. Just then a sharp shower of rain, not over two minutes' duration, I heard Elmer say, "Those are the largest rain drops I ever saw." For a moment they were. Then came the custom house officers again. We were in Holland. Once more our luggage was passed over another frontier. As we left the station there were pastures as far as our eyes could reach, and much water alongside the rail- road. The cattle looked sleek and fat. Around every farm house everything was picked up and looked scrupulously clean. I began to think every day was washday, as there seems to be large washings hung on the hedges or spread on the garden grass each day of our travels. We saw men plow- ing in the fields, one handle to the plow, straight beam, and with either a roller or a cutter on the forward end of the beam. Plowing the little patches was in progress everywhere. I think they were sowing winter wheat. We crossed arms of the sea on long bridges, with steamers, canal boats and some ships in view. Our train came into Rotterdam. There are two large sta- tions. We concluded to go to the farther one, which was a 52 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. mistake, as the sequel proved. Rotterdam is one of the most romantic old cities in the world. It is as large as San Fran- cisco and there are arms of the sea and canals at every turn you take. Boats, steamers, ships, yachts and tugs are all painted brown, trimmed with white, and such quantities are lying all about the city. Canal boats, hundreds of them, each having one mast about forty feet high. The quays are covered with merchandise. Great bundles of wooden shoes, such as many men and women in the country wear. Most of the traffic is carried on in strong baskets, particularly fruit, vegetables and all small kinds of goods that would be boxed in America. In all the countries we have traveled so far in Europe there are loads of baskets in place of our boxes. We secured rooms at the Victoria hotel. How wonderfully common old furniture is. Here was mahogany furniture that you would call a treasure. Tapestry on the bed-room walls, decorations in the favorite Dutch colors, from brown to red in all shades. Our room faced the west, yet as far as we could see were tops of buildings and streets, with a glimpse of tree and meadow in the distance. We get ac- quainted with single individuals from these European coun- tries in America and form our opinions of this country on that acquaintance, or perhaps on something we may read in connection. It cannot be done. One must see these coun- tries and catch a glimpse of their life, progress and customs. We are surprised at every turn we take in these cities. The throngs of well dressed people, their every-day politeness, their polished, finish of manner and evident progress in all the af- fairs of life. How neat these Dutch people seem to be ! In Brussels one morning I saw a maid cleaning the sidewalk with a cloth and a bucket of water. She would drag the cloth along the walk, then wring it out and repeat the pro- cess, walking backwards. Of course she got every particle of dirt. She used her hands. Here in Rotterdam I saw them cleaning hallways and steps just the same way. Dogs hitched to carts are as common here as in Brussels. Patient crea- tures, how industrious they are ! Some of the canals have LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 53 grassy, sloping banks, little circles of flowers and rustic- looking bridges, gems of beauty. There are no flies. We have seen none worth mentioning since we landed in Europe. Everybody leaves their windows wide open, and no flies to chase out. We have not seen a mosquito or gnat, or any- thing to annoy one. There is no perceptible difference be- tween the temperature of the morning and evening There has been little sunshine; no storms, but light rains of short duration nearly every day. There is so little clear weather that we have lost all track of the moon and do not know where it is. This evening in Rotterdam the sun set clear, the first time, except in raris, since leaving Scotland The stars came out twinkling as merrily as in California. In the morning as we ate breakfast we had the finest of wheat rolls, the sweetest of butter and a pot of tea that in color and brewing would cure an invalid. The rich paneling in the dining room, elegant tracing of foliage on the windows, and all the appointments were truly Dutch in both char- acter and style. It is the rule to pay your bill to the head waiter. When through breakfast* we asked for the bill. The head waiter, dressed in a black cutaway coat, and his shirt front of immaculate whiteness, brought the bill on a plate of the daintiest of porcelain ware, using a tray, and politely laid the plate by our side and walked away. We examined the bill, finding it correct, calling for five guilders. We laid five and one-half guilders on the plate. He came with the politest of bows and carried plate and bill away, soon bring- ing back the plate with bill receipted and the correct change, two silver coins reading 25 cents. We left one for his fee. We found we were at the wrong station; hired a cab for one guilder to carry us to the other station ; paid him a fee; gave another fee to an officer in the station to show us our right car. We boarded our train for Dusseldorf, Ger- many. We passed out of the city over canals filled with boats, and quaint-looking streets with people in them typical Dutch people. Phlegmatic they may be in temperament, peculiar 54 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. in custom, and, as it seemed to us, gutteral in speech, yet we admired their sturdy character; we saw it impressed up- on their faces in lines of determination, boldness and ob- stinacy. Yet they are polite and courteous, as Europeans are. We crossed a small arm of the sea and were in the coun- try, which for miles and miles there is none other like it on the earth. This stretch of country is only from eight to twelve inches above the water. There is a strip of water each side of the railroad where the dirt was taken out to- construct the track. All the land is laid off in long, narrow strips about two hundred yards wide, with ditches of water each side from six to eight feet wide. The country roads had strips of water each side where dirt was taken out to make them. The houses and yards had ponds of water both front and back, where dirt was taken out to give them a little elevation. These water strips are the fences. Men were fishing in them. One could swim or row around his farm before breakfast, or go a-fishing. The four-arm wind- mills were lazily turning to give elevation to carry water into the house. Was it not picturesque Holland? Herds of fat, sleek, different-colored cattle were grazing in the pas- tures or lying down chewing their cuds. Pictures of pas- toral life everywhere. The little narrow roads have trees planted on their edges, with now and then one about the houses, and flocks of ducks and geese swimming on the pools of water. We saw thrifty, well-kept yards, bunches of flowers about the homes, men and women wearing wooden shoes, and a church spire and hamlet here and there. Was it not all a strange scene to us? We saw canals with the water in them higher than the land about, there being dykes of earth thrown up to hold the water. Just beyond Utrecht, where our train stopped, we saw soldiers drilling and men working on some earth fortifications. The country was changing to higher land. Some apple trees and some farm- ing land, then pine forests just planted, sandy ridges and hedges of bushes. In a large field we saw many white can- vas tents, tipped with green, just erected. Then again many LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 55 miles of pine forest, from two to four feet high. Then fields of heath on one side as far as we could see, one mass of reddish purple bloom. As we approached Arnheim, other and larger trees became common. These cities are built mostly of brown brick, with bright trimmings. Another lady got in our compartment at Arnheim, hearing Elmer laugh- ing I looked around. The locomotive whistled for start- ing three or four times. The lady had a gentleman accom- panying her to the car, and each time the whistle sounded, the lady, leaning out of the car door window, was kissing the gentleman, the longer the whistle the longer the kiss. Elmer was laughing at it, yet I have no doubt the same thing occurs in California. Just beyond Arnheim there were some meadows, broad, nearly treeless, and the greenest ones I ever saw ; then be- fore crossing a little stream were more earth fortifications and men working on them. The houses, scattered along on the little farms here, looked very old. Their roofs were cov- ered with moss. We reached Emerich. All the passengers on the train now got out, carrying their luggage into a build- ing to be examined. We were entering Germany. What a jabbering and chattering in German and Dutch! I was sur- prised to hear a lady next to me say, "I wonder if anybody talks English here." I replied, "I think not." Our luggage again passed examination. The doors were unlocked and we entered our train. As the train rolled swiftly away we began to look at Germany. The farmhouses were larger and more frequent; better land a magnificent farming country. We saw some hedges with red berries on them ; men plowing with one-handled plows, but with two wheels in front. At Daisburgh we changed trains. We were in an iron center of Germany. There were large manufactories for making or working iron all about us. There were hundreds of tall chimneys scat- tered all over the country. Just before dark we reached Dus- seldorf, and broke our passage again to stay over night and see the exhibition Germany's greatest exposition. The next morning we took an electric car and rode to the 56 A CALIFORNIAN CIRoUNG THE GLOBE. exposition. We found a long group of imposing-looking buildings scattered along on the banks of the Rhine, and got our first glimpse of this river. It was early, yet every car was filled; many were on foot or in cabs, until as we reached the entrance we had to form in line for our tick- ets of admission. What a chance to see the German peo- ple ! Here were gathered representative German men and women from every rank in life. The industrial commercial, and educational were represented, and some of the peasantry. You have seen at fairs and exhibitions in California, people who were awkward and constrained in their appearance, hav- ing on their Sunday or holiday clothes. Such people were here. They were from the farm and field, not wholly at home except in their every-day garb. There were thousands of well-dressed people, many of them with their gloves on, polished and easy in their manners, representing the pro- gressive classes of Germany. The exposition managers had no English guide printed, therefore we could only walk about and guess at some of the names on the exhibits. The dis- play was grand, and one for the German people to be proud of. There was no midway performance. It is the greatest gathering of Germany's art, industry and manufactures that the German people ever held. It would take a whole chap- ter to tell you of the many things we saw of interest in these few hours. Machines of all kinds, many of them being oper- ated. Iron work of every description, from Krupp's display of cannon and whole mainshafts of a ship to the smallest iron tools. We lingered long among these thousands of German people, and were loth to leave, although we heard not a word of English. They were talking away, and one word occurred so frequently that we soon knew its mean- ing, as it came so repeatedly that the occurrence of it was as frogs croaking in a pond "Yah." We have heard the word so often that, as Elmer and I talk together, instead of saying yes, we catch ourselves saying "Yah." Amid the ringing of bells for the midday hour, we took T1IE NILE AT ASSOUAN UEC. 10-rn l ').>_> LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 57 car again for the station, and were just in time to catch the next train for Cologne, Germany. We have learned now, in taking a train, to take our ticket and watch and point to the watch as we enter the gates to the station. Then the gate-keeper who punches the ticket points out the hour and minute our train leaves. We have a map and railway time tables printed in English, which we purchased in London for two shillings, concerning all of Europe and consult these tables at hotels and pick out the fastest trains. The train we boarded at Dusseldorf was a slow one, yet we only had two hours' travel to reach Cologne. In the morning, before entering the exposition at Dusseldorf, we visited the market. This is a novel scene to an American. In the German cities the women go to the market in the morning, and, if not rainy, most of them go bare-headed. They carry either a basket or an open woven pouch or sling. In the smaller cities the country teams come in. There are flowers and all sorts of fruits and vegetables, and such throngs of women ! The life and bustle over a whole square of pave- ment is a wonderful scene. Of course, all the well-to-do people send their servants. As we left Dusseldorf we saw a fine farming country and much manufacturing, improve- ments in new houses, and new factories. Surely, Germany is very progressive. We were surprised to find Dusseldorf a well-built city. We passed some forest and long stretches of farming country, where men were preparing to sow winter wheat. As our train drew into the station at Cologne, we saw the cathedral for which this city is noted. Our tickets read, and the name on the station is "Koln." We secured rooms in a hotel about one block away from the cathedral. We went into the cathedral, the most imposing and sym- metrical one we have seen. To the roof in the central part is 140 feet. You can never realize how one of these great cathedrals looks until you see them. The stained windows are very fine, the pillars to support the immense weight very large, and altogether a remarkable work, one that cost mil- 58 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. lions and years to build. Some of the streets in Cologne are very narrow and people have to walk in the street, as there is hardly room to pass on the sidewalk. In all these conti- nental European cities one hears more bells ringing than in London. There are very few bells ringing in London, even on Sunday. Here there are many bells, some ringing as chimes, other singly. As we are coming back to Cologne, after traveling thousands of miles in Europe, we leave most of our luggage at the hotel. It was the finest train we had yet seen in Europe. The ticket collector took a key and in- serted in a metallic plate just above our heads, and as he turned it, the word Berlin popped out our destination. The roads are smooth and we noticed the rails halved together at each end for a foot. The iron used for rails is heavy. The farmhouses are large in this part of Germany, and many new ones are being erected. Brick is used, and tile for the roofs of the houses. Towns and cities are close together, with a magnificent farming country between them. The won- derful German chemists have analyzed these soils and ran- sacked the whole earth to find fertilizing material ; there- fore they are more fertile than they probably were many centuries ago. We passed forest, field, farm and factory in quick succession. At Essen we saw at one side acres of shops and scores of tall chimneys all belching forth smoke, until our vision was so clouded we could see no termination of them it was Krupp's great works, probably the larg- est cannon and ordnance manufacturer in the world. Just before noon a gentleman in uniform came along and left in our seat a circular with the time table of that train printed in German on one side, and a notice that a dining car was in the train, and its service and price printed in three lan- guages on the other side, one of them English. The lan- guage was so remarkable that I copy a little. After describ- ing that a fine course dinner would be served, it went on to say : "Price is three marks, and if no wine is taken three and one-half marks." VVe passed many freight trains. There are more box cars than in England, and they are a lit- LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 59 tie longer, yet not as long as in America. There is no way of walking along on the train, and every few cars on one end of the car there is a little sentry-looking box, one-half in end of car, the other half projecting above. A ladder leading to it, and the brakeman rides in that little box, standing up endways. All day we rode through a fine country, crossing a small river. There was one range of hills running north and south, and some fine forests. At one place the forests were old enough, so a saw mill was working up the pine. Elmer was walking about and came back and said, "There is a man locked up in the first-class compartment." I said, "Does he look like nobility?" He replied, "He is all alone and read- ing newspapers." There is a saying common in London that only "fools and Americans ride first class." I do not know how it is in Germany. Before reaching Berlin we passed several large Portland cement manufactories, and it seemed that on their sidings many cars were loading for market. Unlike England, nearly all the railroads cross the traveled roads on grade, and there appears to be a keeper to let down a gate as the train passes. We saw in wet places the farmers putting in considerable tile draining. In one place there were many acres of asparagus growing. We noticed as we entered Berlin that, unlike Ameri- can cities, most of the better hotels were near the central station. We arrived in Berlin Saturday evening and it rained all night and until 2 o'clock of Sunday. We started to find * Protestant church Sunday evening, but failed. We found two, but they were shut up, and one Catholic church open. We did see crowds of people blocking the streets, waiting for the theatres to be opened, and the cafes crowded with men and women sipping tea, drinking beer and other drmK.v Our room was not very far from a large cafe, and we heard them until two o'clock in the morning. We walked by the Kaiser's palace. There is a large open space on three sides 60 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. of it, fountains playing and much ornamental statuary on the different sides. On Monday we went to the United States embassy to as- certain what farther to do to get into Russia, as we had learned that just a passport from Washington was not suffi- cient, though necessary. We were received very cordially and directed to the American Consul General's office. We went there as directed and asked for a "visa" to our passports. The first question we were asked was, "What is your re- ligion?" We replied, "Protestant." Then, after the papers were made out, we were confronted by the consul general with a question, "You declare this to be true?" We paid four marks each for this service, again signing a sort of supple- mentary passport. This was not enough. We had to go to the Russian consul general's office. His office was up stairs, yet a large door opened into a court and stairway from the sidewalk. We could not open the door. Elmer pulled what we supposed was a door-bell. A passer-by ran up and pulled this supposed door-bell, and then, while pulling, the knob yielded and we went in and walked up stairs. The door- keeper has two tiny glass eyes in the door, which cannot be opened from the outside, and as we came up the door flew open and he bowed very politely to us, ushering us into an anteroom, where we found about a dozen of people of all sorts, waiting. We were soon ushered into an inner room. With our passports in our hands, we told him that we wanted his official sanction. He could talk English. He took them. We paid him four marks each, and he told us to come again at half past two o'clock. We then went to the Dresdener Bank to change four hundred marks into Russian money. We got one hundred and eighty-three roubles, and eighty ko- pecks, with one mark back. This is the largest and most spa- cious banking house I was ever in. Yet it took two clerks over half an hour to figure out this money and effect the change. We went back to the Russian consul general's office at half past two. He had done nothing to our passports, and after we had waited a few minutes he wrote his "visa" as it LONDON, PARIS AND GERMANY. 61 is called, on their backs, and we were ready to go into Russia. With the politest of bows we were ushered out. Many were coming and going as we sat there, mostly Russians that had been out of the country and were going back. As we walked to our hotel, we saw three real black negroes. They were attracting much attention on the street. In these northern European cities negroes are scarce. We saw a hearse returning from a funeral. The four horses hitched to it had their heads and entire bodies draped in black, except just little holes for their eyes. Each horse had a black plume on his head. We left Berlin in the edge of the evening for Moscow. We reached the frontier of Russia just after one o'clock in the morning. The train was locked and no one could get out. A Russian in uniform, with a sword cla'nging on one side, and a pistol and holster on the other, his pants tucked in his boots, came along in the train, gathering up everybody's passport. Then all the passengers, at half past one in the morning, were gathered into a large room in the station, with all their luggage, for inspection. Ours passed, yet many had to pay duty, as various things dutiable were brought to light ; it took two hours to get out of this station. We all had to wait at a window and call out our names in order to have our passports returned to us. We then purchased our tickets to Moscow (as our circular ticket does not include Russia), costing us eighteen roubles each. We boarded our train, pay- ing an interpreter a few kopecks as a fee to guide us aright. Soon after the train started a porter came along and trans- formed our car into a sleeper, yet there were only cushions to lie down on, no covers. Then the ticket collector came along and asked for our "billets." Next morning I arose early and saw the sun rising over a flat, level country in Poland. The farm houses were poor. Most of them were thatched, low, with only one entrance in sight. They looked a little better where they were grouped in hamlets, instead of being scattered about on the roads. Mostly hay crops, and they looked poor; the women were barefooted, some men were plowing, with 62 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. the smallest handles and beam I ever saw on a plow. Not many trees, and no hills. I do not think the soil is as good as in Germany, yet the difference may be in fertilizing. As we neared Warsaw there seemed to be peasants driving and walking about, and all looked wretchedly poor. The reason our consul general asked our religion was that if we had been Jews we would have been shut out of Russia. What a travesty that is, when one-half of all the Jews in the world are sup- posed to live in Russia. Our train came into the station. We found nobody to speak English, but were directed to a train for Moscow. It poked off and encircled the city and pulled up at another station, where we were motioned off with the other passengers. An express train stood there for Moscow. The officials motioned us back as we went to get on. We could not make them un- derstand, and while we were recovering our equilibrium the train pulled out. We succeeded in finding a German that could talk English. He told us that we could not leave for Moscow before evening. We were left to meditate in Warsaw. III. Our meditation lasted all day and until 9 :3O p. m. We found that it was unavoidable, as the train that preceded us in the morning was made up of sleepers, with all seats re- served in advance. We walked about Warsaw. A river run- ning north and south divides the city into two parts. On the west side is the best of the city, where the principal stores and hotels are located. The Jews control the wealth and trade, being tolerated here by the Russian government, but are practically driven out of St. Petersburg and Moscow. There are more poor people here, wretchedly so, than I have ever seen before; dirty, barefooted, ignorant, and, above all, with a dejected look, human aspirations apparently stamped out, if they ever existed. Looking at the thousands of such people one could easily become a believer in Darwinism, were it not for one fact. Many of these women have on red, or checked with red, dresses, if partially concealed with dirt. Scientists tell us that monkeys cannot distinguish color. This fact throws out Darwin's theory. Inside of two hours, as I walked about, I saw four funeral processions passing along the streets, just an old one-horse wagon draped in some dingy black to bear the coffin, and the mourners walking behind mostly women and children, only a handful, and in one of the instances only three, keeping close to the wagon to avoid being run over. The only brightness was the coffin, which I have no doubt was hired for the oc- casion. 64 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. Policemen dressed in uniform, wearing swords, were at every corner; soldiers of all ranks walking and being driven about, rich and poor jostling each other on the best streets; caste everywhere. Each soldier tips his hat and touches his forehead as he meets one of higher rank; even civilians sa- lute one another of higher position, and the peasants saluting those in authority over them. I passed by a large church, all fenced in, and noticed a gate unlocked in the fence on one side. I saw now and then a well-dressed lady enter this gate, close it, and then enter the church for worship. Hundreds of the poor were passing in, front of the church, many of them with bundles on their backs as large as they could carry. They bent their knees and crossed themselves, many of them kneeling down on the cold, hard, dirty pavement, reverently crossing themselves, not once but several times. It was good enough for them to wor- ship outside. Most of the churches, by their style, seemed to be Greek churches, the national religion of Russia. I soon noticed, as I walked about, that each cab driver, most of the uniformed men, most of the people, rich and poor, and many of them in the street cars, as they passed a church would lift their hats or caps, and cross themselves not in front of any one church in particular, but all of them. There are many geese raised in Poland. I saw a flock of several hundred being driven along a street by men having red rags tied to a stick, dodging street cars and teams. Most of the streets are paved with stone, worn so long that they are now round, uneven the worst streets that I ever saw. At 9:30 p. m. we boarded our train for Moscow. By pay- ing one and one-half roubles each we secured reserved seats, which gave the entire side of a compartment in a corridor car, which was turned into an upper and lower berth for sleeping at night, quite comfortable and nice, only if we wanted covers and bedding that would cost one rouble more each. The other side of the compartment was occupied by a colonel in the Russian army and a gentleman from Paris, who talked FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 65 together a good deal in Russian, but we could not under- stand a word. Unlike other parts of Europe, there are few good roads hi Russia, except military roads across the country. Outside the larger towns, and they are few and far between, the people all live in villages just a group of, usually, log houses, with poles for rafters, and roofs thatched with straw, old and gray. No paint, no whitewash, roofs covered with patches of moss, only one door, one little window, scarcely any chimneys. No regular streets, little muddy lanes or paths crooking around the houses, scarcely any trees, not any flowers in sight. No schools, only one room to live in, an adjoining room, without much partition sometimes, for the horses, cows and a pig or two, with now and then some sheep. The peasants do not undress at night. All they cook is stewed up in one dish, and the whole family sit around with spoons, no plates, dip- ping out of this dish as they eat. In the larger villages some sort of a Greek church and a priest; in the smaller ones, a place called a church but no priest. At stated times he comes on Sunday, a bell being rung Saturday night to tell the people of his coming. Then they go, a part at a time, crowding into the little room called a church, until all the people get in. They work Sundays and every other day except the great holidays of the year, paying no attention to the holidays of the cities, and can tell the time only by the sun. They go to work at daylight and work until dark. They herd their cat- tle and sheep no fences and usually the boys or girls do the herding, their only education. They raise flax. We saw the women washing it and then drying it on the grass, and in the villages was a high frame- work of poles, to finally cure the flax on. The women weave cloth from the flax in the winter time, their only clothing. The men have sheep skins sewed together for overcoats. The corn (oats) and buckwheat was the only growing crop in sight ; they were harvesting, in the crudest way, mostly being done by the women. The men were plowing for winter 66 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. wheat and rye. Some manure was being hauled on to the fields and it was quite common to see the women spreading it with their hands. Each peasant has a patch of potatoes, small and poor, and a stack or two of hay, on some interval where much haying is done; no clover to enrich the land, naturally fertile, but looking worn out by continued cropping. After leaving Poland and in Russia proper, a little over one-half of the country, as we could see, is growing forests, mostly white birch and pine of the Norway variety. Of course, there are no primitive forests left, like I have seen in British Columbia and Alaska, yet for growing natural forests there are no finer in any country trees straight as an arrow, and as thick as they can grow. Thousands of cords of birch wood were cut and hauled by the track, mostly about eighteen inches long, looking, as we passed acres of this wood at times, as though their tops and sides were tipped with snow, the white birch bark presenting that appearance. There were logs of pine, railway ties, telegraph poles and piles of sawed lumber. Truly, this is a country of wonderful natural resources. In Moscow I found a Russian who could talk English who had traveled in America, and I asked him, "Why is it that the people in these country villages are so poor?" His reply came : "There are many things unexplainable in Russia," and at the same time intimated that they were not allowed to explain them. I understood fully and forebore questioning him further on that line. He, however, told me that the peas- ants could not cultivate much acreage in grain, as they had no labor-saving machinery nor money to buy with, and that the Moscow merchants sold everything at about one hundred per cent profit, with no competition among them, making it still harder for the peasant to buy. I only saw one American reaper in Poland and two in Russia, yet there were thousands of acres of corn (oats) ready to cut, and women and men working at the crop with sickle or scythe hooked on a straight stick for a handle. As often as every verst (a Russian mile) or less the country FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 67 roads cross the railway on the grade, either through forest or field. Between Warsaw and Moscow, except close to the cities, the railroad people have built small log houses for a peasant to live in at each of these crossings. An iron rail painted red and green crosses the country road, hung with a weight, and always in place as the train passes, on each side of the track. The remarkable feature is that, early or late, rain or shine, a peasant, usually a woman, as the train passes, stands between the rail and the track, either one side or the other, as motionless as a statue and as solemn as an owl, with a stick, covered with a green flag wound on it, pointing directly at the train. Between Warsaw and the frontier this does not occur, yet the little houses are there, built of brick. We passed through about the center of Poland. The country is flat, even more so than a Kansas prairie. From Poland to Moscow it is a little more rolling, yet no hill anywhere. There are fences made mostly of old railroad ties, set endwise in the ground, most of the way, as protection from snow drifts in the winter, with a hedge of spruce or pine growing. The freight cars are nearly all box cars; on each corner near the top and inside is a little iron window or shutter to let down The reason, as far as I could see, is that all the troops are transported in these cars. We saw train loads of soldiers, packed as close as they could stand in these box cars with only these iron shutters and a little cn>.ck of the side doors open. I also saw a train load of peasants riding the same way, men and women. There are soldiers at every station and walking about in the cities, besides the regiments to be seen. We saw at least 3000 troops pass on a street in Warsaw with their bands of music and guns in full marching outfit. The privates looked dirty and ignorant and seemed to be but little more than a mob. All official positions in trade or government in Russia carry with them a uniform; therefore, outside of peasants, it seems almost every other man has a uniform on. Everything is formal. When your train leaves a station the station-keeper rings a bell twice. Then, after a few moments, he rings the 68 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. bell three times, then a train man blows a pocket whistle. The engineer on the locomotive responds with a short steam whistle. Then the train man whistles again and the engineer responds, and at that moment the train starts off. There are double tracks on all the roads we have traveled over in Eu- rope, and sometimes more. We found Moscow, the second city in Russia, quite inter- esting. There are many Greek churches, and what seems to be in many places a small place of worship at some turn of the street, with open doors and candles burning inside, with people passing in and out. The cabs here have the smallest wheels I ever saw, the front ones about two feet in diameter and the hind ones but little larger. The horses have a yoke sticking high above the collar, in the form of a half circle, to which the fills are fastened, the yoke in turn fastened to the horse's collar about half way to the top. Most of the streets are paved with the roughest of cobble' stones. We hired one of these curious-looking cabs, yoke and all, paying one and one-half roubles for a lengthy drive about this old city, once the capital of Russia, and where all the Czars are crowned. There are some blocks of buildings of imposing ap- pearance. One noticeable feature in a European city is what they call an arcade, a long, handsome passageway a few feet in width, running at an angle all the way through some block of buildings, lined with small, handsome stores each side, and usually crowded with people. We saw three of these long arcades, in a block approaching completion, in Moscow. There is more crossing and lifting of hats by the people here than in Warsaw, as they went by the places of worship. A Greek priest in a two-seated closed carriage, sit- ting with a lighted candle in his hand, passed us. Most of the people in the street caught sight of him and such crossing, bowing of knees, and touching of foreheads I never saw be- fore. All I could see in the carriage was the priest and his candle and two ladies sitting on the back seat. All very ma- terial. What were they worshipping? We went into a very large Greek church. Except in architecture, with its lighted CARRIAGE IN MOSCOW FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 69 candles, v>-e could see but little difference between this church and a Catholic one. There were no pews nor seats, and the confessionals were not as prominent in the places we saw used that way as in Catholic churches. Men were wearing over- coats, reminding us that we were in a cold country, and it was cold. There are other places of interest, but this was one of their numerous holidays and they were closed. I pur- chased some grapes of a man on the street, paying 45 kopecks for a pound, and what a curious-looking old balancing scales he had, just like those you have seen in old pictures. The poor of Moscow, while we saw whole streets of them, did not look as poor as the peasants in the country or the wretch- edly poor people of Warsaw. As we left Moscow the sun was shining brightly, about two hours before sunset. All Russian cities have many roofs painted a bright green, while all the balls and small spires of the Greek churches are gilded with a color as bright as polished brass. Many of the large buildings are painted in bright colors, unlike other European cities we have seen. The rays of this bright sun caught dome, tower, roof and spire with such a glow and gleam of sparkling brightness as our train rolled away that within my memory's grasp I will ever carry this picture, one of the gems of soft, brilliant beauty that poets love to dream over. The next morning, as our fast express train was covering the long distance to Warsaw, the sun rose clear in this Russian sky, and in a few minutes dark, gray, cold and pitiless-looking clouds overcast the entire hori- zon, sending a wall of gloom over forest and field. I thought of Napoleon and his army retreating from Moscow, over prac- tically the same route we were traveling, nearly one hundred years ago. How easy it was, here on the ground, amid such surroundings, to fill in the picture with all its dire settings of disaster and death, until, as I mused upon it, in my reverie every tree, knoll, or hollow that went flitting by, as the train rolled on, seemed to have a part in the painting of the pic- ture. Unlike the rest of Europe, all the land in Russia, including 70 A CALIFORN1AN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. Poland, as far as our trip extended, to Moscow, that is culti- vated, is ploughed in extremely narrow lands, not over eight feet wide. The farmer is trying to run off surplus moisture on the surface, while in other parts of Europe the land is un- derdrained with tile. I should judge that Russia is the natural home of crows, as we saw flock after flock. Some of them would count into the thousands. While eating in the dining car we incidentally learned that the police of some interior city must "visa" our passports be- fore we would be allowed to leave Russia. Having no alter- native, we abandoned our through train in Warsaw at one o'clock at night, went to a hotel, awakened the proprietor, and through an interpreter engaged rooms, handed him our pass- ports with the request that he would obtain of the police their "visa" for leaving the country. Had we gone to the frontier from Moscow as we started they would have sent us back at our own expense. We are again left to meditate in Warsaw. About five o'clock p. m. we obtained our passports of the police with the privilege of paying one and a half roubles each for their "visa" and boarded another through train for Germany, arriving in Alexandraw, on the frontier, at 10 p. m. Alighting, we handed our passports to the Russian officers and awaited events. Our train rolled away. After a while a German train backed into the station and we went on board. For a long time we sat there, then a Russian official with the passports of all the passengers came along the train and at each compartment looked in and requested the names of the passengers. As we called out our names he handed us our passports that he carried in a large leather book, where each passport had a page. Every one having a passport without the proper "visa" on it was compelled to leave the train. There was much excitement and a great deal of Russian talk. As soon as the passengers in each compartment got their pass- ports, it was locked up. When all through the train started for Thorn, on the German side of the frontier. As we arrived in Thorn, a German officer, wearing on his head a helmet running to a point on top of the crown, looking FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 71 like burnished brass, came and asked for our passports. He looked at them, simply noting that they had been stamped by the police on the Russian side and handed them back. Then we carried our luggage into the station, where we again passed the custom house officials. Then taking still another train (as the one we were on was going to Berlin), we started for Breslau, the third largest city in Germany, Berlin and Ham- burg being the first and second. It was Saturday night. We lay down on the cushions and curled up, sleeping the best we could, only one passenger coming in to disturb our slum- bers, arriving in Breslau at sunrise Sunday morning. An Englishman in Russia had told us of a hotel where the porter could speak English. Armed with the address, and by showing it to numerous policemen and street sweepers, we managed to find it, and settled down until Monday morning. At ten o'clock we went to the largest Protestant church, and as a German said who could talk a little English, had "the tallest spire in Breslau, no meters high." The church was built in the cathedral style, probably before Martin Luther's time, and had been fixed over by painting and decoration to conform to Protestant ideas. There was a large congregation of people not overdressed, as that sort of people do not go to church in Europe. The singing was good, although in German. Of the sermon I only caught two words, Moses and Jerusalem. Of course it was in German. The reverence and attention was good. We saw no signs of any Sunday scTlool. Breslau is a very old city, the buildings looking old. It has a population of about on-half million. In these old cities there are many streets barely wide enough for a wagon, and never run straight for more than a block or two. There are no stores open Sunday, except bakeries, fruit and meat stores. Progressive German people ! We admire their sturdy charac- ter and cannot find any more poverty and want in their cities than in America. Early Monday morning we walked to the station. It was along one of the principal business streets, time not yet six o'clock. I will never forget what we saw. The street was 72 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. fairly full of people going all one way to market, most of them in the street, instead of on the sidewalks, because there was something with them; dogs hitched to several kinds of carts, with a man or woman pulling the cart by its side; great large wheelbarrows with women pushing them along; little wagons of all sorts and styles, some piled high with empty baskets, some filled with flowers, and a man or woman propelling them; teams and wagons from the country, loaded with vegetables, and mixed in with the lot were happy, healthy- faced drivers, men and women; and the most curious part of this striking scene was many baby buggies, all of about one style, with strong wheels on them, rolling along, not carry- ing any babies to market, but being pushed along by strong German women. On the sidewalks were men and women carrying satchels and now and then one with a load on his or her head. Most of the women were bareheaded, yet we were shivering with cold. Many of them had nice, clean aprons on, and looked neat. Truly, these Germans are a wonderful people. Evidently the most of them were small traders, going to get their daily supplies, while others had something to sell. As we walked along we concluded that it was so early there would be but few in the station to take the train leaving at 6 :22. We were never more surprised. We found many took our train, filling up ten passenger coaches, and after getting on the train Elmer said, looking out of the window, "Look at the hundreds of people !" There they were, filling a long train for Berlin, another for Vienna and two other trains; bustle, activity, animation, something so unexpected by us at that early hour. As our express train from Breslau rolled away to the south- east, we passed into one of the most fertile farming regions in the world. The peasants were mowing by hand the after- growth of grass in the meadows, getting a good crop, and plowing for winter grain. The women were digging the po- tato crop, spreading and raking the hay, which feature lasted all day, both in Germany and Hungary. I saw some corn, PROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 73 sown for fodder, growing so stout that it was lodged on the ground. The country has but few trees and is level. Our car was extremely comfortable, there being straps to rest the arms or hands in, head rests, and everything that a millionaire could wish, and we were riding second-class. It was just as good as first-class compartments in the same car. There were some pieces of red clover left to ripen to get the seed; no fences, nor forest, and we could see many miles each way. Many acres of low land was being underdrained with tile. The women here were spreading manure with a fork. We crossed some rivers, or it may have been the same one, as this part of Germany still sloped to the north enough for drainage. At one crossing there were canal boats in the river. The farmers live in little villages close together, and in many places the old thatched roof, where they used to live, and the new home, with its bright tile roof and brick sides, proclaiming prosperity and progress, are near together. They used drills in sowing their grain. There are many large manufacturing plants, some of them on a large scale, making cement. Most of the women in the fields were barefooted, and some of them having about four cattle tied together by their heads, holding them while they were feeding, their heads all one way. I saw one woman driving a stake in the ground with a rock, two goats teth- ered to the stake with a rope. Some of the farmers were scattering fertilizer. In the morning dark clouds overspread the sky and it was cold. Now, about ten o'clock, the lower clouds passed away, and little rifts of sunshine came strag- gling through the cumuli which still arched the sky. There was just enough of sunshine to impart a soft, quiet look over field and village, adding charm and beauty to this captivating rural scene. The train rolled along. We came to a forest where men were hauling logs to a sawmill. One foot in diameter is a large log in Germany. Passing the forest we came to a wide strip of intervale land, all meadow, and scores of men and women were working on 74 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. the hay crop, gamboling about like children, as they spread out the hay. Many of the women had red dresses on, adding color to the scene. At one station I saw women working on some side tracks, digging out the grass and weeds. These Germans are very ingenious, as they make and put up in the fields the most real-looking scarecrows I ever saw. They just seemed ready to talk or walk. As we arrived at Oderberg we passed out of Southeastern Germany into Hungary. The emporor of Austria is king of Hungary. Here we again passed into the custom house and our luggage was passed through for Austria. As we rode into Hungary the country began to get hilly with more forest. The farm work was the same as in Germany, only the Hungarians in most places had posts about ten feet long setting in the ground not far apart, with crooked sticks passing through them, upon which they hung the hay, making little ricks of hay, straight and uniform in size. Instead of tile, their houses were covered with slate, almost black in color. We began an upward grade by a little river. The hills, as we looked from the car windows, were soon replaced by larger ones, then by real mountains the first we had seen since leaving Scotland. Through a tunnel, then up another valley, with the hillsides all terraced into little plots of ground. Wild flowers were everywhere, as fresh and bright as natwre can paint them. The annual leaf or deciduous trees were being replaced with evergreen trees, many of them spruce, all so delicate in color and fine in foliage that their drooping branches were like festoons of silk woven by the wonderful handiwork of nature. Up and up the grade we climbed, then circling the head of a valley to gain in grade, with villages down below us full of surprises to us in their features and architecture. Again another tunnel, and we were over the divide. On one side these little mountain brooks and springs were flowing to the Baltic sea ; on the other side, where our train was now rolling along, the waters were flow- ing to the Mediterranean. The tunnel we had just passed was only through a small hill, and as we sped along over and FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 75 around these small mountains, with forests, and where even the mountain tops are terraced into little, tiny plots of grain and grass, and as far as our eye could look over the country and up the little villages for many miles, we felt that we were not needing any airships to sail away in, but were really rfd- ing over the tops of the mountains down into Southeastern Europe. I wish I had the time to picture to you and trace out the many rare bits of scenery, to portray the ever-changing views. More beautiful than diamonds, more lasting to us than mere apples of gold or silver, will be the ever-recurring memory of this midday ride over this continental divide in Europe. I want to tell you of one little incident. On the frontier of Hungary, at Odenburg, a gentleman and a lady came into our compartment. He was about fifty years old, dark in feature, a type of southern races of Europe. Soon after the train left Odenburg I glanced at the gentleman sit- ting just opposite of me. I saw tears in his eyes and trickling down on his cheeks. He saw I noticed them, and arose, go- ing into the ante room of the lavatory, where I heard great sobs of anguish. Soon he came back; the lady got their va- lise and spread out a lunch that would tempt an invalid, and, as she was eating, asked him to eat, in language unknown to us. He shook his head in refusal, and after a while stood in the corridor, where I could see his frame tremble, and hear the subdued sobs. His deep anguish touched my heart, and in sympathy I wiped away some tears. After crossing the divide his face changed; he called for the lunch, and with great avidity ate of the chicken and other food ; then after- wards laid his head back on the cushioned rest and slept like an infant. At some time in our lives you and I have had these times of deep anguish, leaves of personal history, per- haps unwritten and unknown to others, yet so real to our- selves. In this memorable ride to Budapest, we rode through vil- lages in Hungary as pretty in outline, if the mountains were not as high, as those about Redlands, and to this picture there 76 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. was the ever-present charm of novelty and trees and green grass. We saw men working in the fields with shirts on as you have seen them in pictures, while the women wore very picturesque costumes. We rode through another tunnel, leav- ing forests of evergreen. As we emerged from the tunnel we saw only forests of deciduous trees, and over on a steep hill was the ruins of an old castle, a relic of the feudal ages. We passed several of these relics. It was near evening. The cumuli in the skies had become mere gossamer-looking threads, and the sun shining through them cast its soft, mellow light over hill, mountain, farm, field and forest, and I caught something of its gleam and sang a melody in my heart full of happiness and joy. Just at dusk we rode into a narrow valley. The forests were gone, the hills were terraced to their tops, and the peasants were going home on the country roads from their work. At 10 p. m. we arrived at Budapest. In the morning I arose early and walked. I soon came to the Danube river, much wider than the Seine at Paris. The current is strong and the volume of water flowing along is large. Pleasure boats and boats of commerce were plying up and down its broad waters. An esplanade, consisting of a walk and trees, with a row of chairs and seats facing the river, looked so inviting that I entered and paced along. I came to a large bridge. Paid in toll four fillers to cross. There are at each end of the bridge two large lions, with their shaggy manes, tails and heads, all carved out of rock, looking almost as real as life. I walked up an eminence at the side of the river, where there were seats, trees and flowers, saw a well-built city of 700,000 lying on both banks of the river, with many imposing blocks of buildings. There are no sky scrapers in these European cities, yet they are uniform, because whole streets are lined with buildings five or six stories high mostly five. Busy, bustling city life' was already throbbing in its streets. I saw some men and women stalking around barefooted, groups of women carrying packs on their backs, as large al- FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 77 most as they were, yet many well dressed people everywhere. n.s I looked at the people, I missed the blue eyes and light features seen among the Germans. Here were darker eyes, and more swarthy features. I was coming in contact with the Southern races of Europe. I felt a warmth in the air, and noted that even the clouds had sharper edges to them, features that are peculiar to and a part of more Southern climes. I paid two fillers to walk through a tunnel out into a quieter part of the city, passed a little market in the open air with only a canopy for a covering, where the chattering and trading of meat, fruit and vegetable venders was a wonderfully inter- esting scene. I saw women sitting down, holding live chickens in their laps, with their heads all one way, waiting for a pur- chaser. I purchased one kilogram of grapes for forty fillers, and as I motioned to the woman selling them for a larger sack, how they laughed, with their sparkling dark eyes and vivacious ways. I walked along and saw several small boys and girls, with their books in leather satchels, going to school, nicely dressed, with bits of ribbon, pink, blue and red in contrast with gray, on dress and hat ; and the boys with as wide turndown white collars as any American boy. They trooped merrily along; so did I. They jumped and played hide and seek. I wanted to. They stopped abruptly, as children do when a thought or whim catches them. I did. Was I not a child? Are we not all, only children, even though grown up or wrinkled and gray with (so-called) age? Among men on earth there is a measurement called Time. It does not exist in Heaven, there- fore there are no old people in Heaven and never will be. My morning frolic ended, I walked back to my hotel. We paid one and one-half krones extra to the cab driver to drive us about the city on our way to the station. Streets full of people, women along the edge of the walks and in the street with baskets of fruit to sell, horses hauling wagons and hitched to one side of the tongue instead of fills, peasant women, some barefooted, some with red dresses on, many of them bare- 78 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. headed, some balancing loads on their heads, many of them wearing skirts so large and round at the bottom that it re- minded me of the hoopskirts our mothers used to wear many years ago. Men were sprinkling the streets, or rather washing them with large hose hitched to hydrants, and men and women dodging to get out of the way. Companies of soldiers march- ing along dressed in navy blue colored clothes with many trimmings of reddish colored braid on coat and hat. Nov- elty, charm, color and perhaps romance at every turn and step. We boarded our train for Vienna and as the train ambled away we cast a long, lingering look over a low range of moun- tains towards Constantinople, wanting to enter the Orient that way, where each hour, as the cars rolled along, we could have noted a change in the people. We now saw fields of Indian corn, quite numerous all the way to Vienna, and vineyards, the first of each we had seen in Europe. The vineyards are all trained up on sticks about four or five feet high, and the rows are not over two feet apart. At a distance the uniform height and appearance, still in full leaf, resembled a nursery of budded orange trees in Redlands, ready to transplant, with the stakes they are tied to just visible above the top of the green. We also saw the first peach trees, not in orchards, but about the gardens and towns.- There were many locust trees planted by the sides of the country roads. We were practically following up the Danube river valley all day. It soon began to widen out and there were great vistas of as fine farming land as any in the world, level and naturally fertile. The farmers were plowing with the same style of plow used all over Europe, with two wheels in front, and are grain raisers the first section of Europe we have seen so largely devoted to grain raising. At their villages there were scores of large stacks, .not little pointed ones, but long and high, their harvest of the summer gathered and not yet threshed. In three places I saw steam engines pulling plows ONE SOURCE OF THE RIVER JORDAN, AT C.KSAKKA PHILIPPI FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 79 across the field. In many places the little plots of farming had given away to large, broad fields in their place. We passed many fields of sugar beets and men and women gathering them ; cars loaded with them at the stations. I never saw a finer growth of sugar beets, just covering the ground with their tops, with no rows visible either way. I do not think the farms looked quite as prosperous as in Germany, yet in many places a richer soil naturally. Austria is not, from what we could see, building up manu- facturing plants like Germany. The German farmer, because of shops and labor required to run them, finds it more profit- able to raise not grain, but other food. There are many oxen used in the fields. The valley narrows as we passed Pressburg, quite a city, and the train pushes through a tun- nel. We passed some steep hillsides, all terraced into vine- yards, with just what we call in California the smallest of cabins, many scores of them, for a watcher to sleep in at night, to keep thieves away. Before reaching Vienna (called and spelled Wien all over this country) we crossed a broad, level plain, rich, fertile and magnificent to look at. I remem- bered a bit of history. Vienna at one time was the capital city of Europe, rich and powerful. It led all other cities at that time, outnumbering any one of them in population. I refer to the close of the Seventeenth century. The Mo- hammedans were sweeping over Europe with irresistible hordes of victorious armies. They were encamped before Vienna, more than likely upon this very plain we were looking at. History tells us that John Sobieski, a noble Polish chief- tain, raised an army of seventy thousand men, and marched to the city's relief. He came upon the Mohammedan army, 300,000 strong, and at five o'clock on Sunday, October 12, 1683, this brave and gallant Polish army, shouting an ever-memor- able battle cry, "Not unto us, O Lord, but unto thee be the glory," gave battle to the enemy. It is a matter of history that after dark the moon was totally eclipsed, and these Mo- hammedans whose banner is the crescent, as they saw their emblem fading from the sky, fled away and all Europe was 80 A CALIFORNIA*! CIRCLING THE GLOBE. saved from ruin and plunder. As the gloom of evening set- tled down upon this broad plain, we mused upon this history and could almost see in our vision its history repeated. We arrived in Vienna just after dark. We saw a better looking city than Berlin, with wider streets and trees. While Berlin has its great street, Under Van Linden, a magnificent feature of that city, Vienna has sev- eral streets of that character, open squares and all shapes of triangular spaces. We rode through the square where the Emperor lives and noted the large palace with much statuary around and about it. The parliament buildings were grand, and the courthouse is equally as imposing and beautiful. The museum and other public buildings are of that character which architects love to look at as they study design and effect. The monuments, statuary on all sorts of buildings, much of it of rare beauty, is not equalled by any other city we have seen. Stone copings, caps to the windows, pillars, and al- most everything about the central and newest part of the city seem to be carved with such a disregard for labor, cost and time, that the wonder is when did this people accomplish all this work? London in its general appearance has nothing, except size, to compare with these great continental cities of Central Europe. We saw a novel way of sprinkling the streets. A cart, with tank in the usual way, discharging water out of one sprinkler in the rear and a man walking behind, with a rope hitched to the end of the sprinkler and with a stately tread, would pull the sprinkler first one way and then the other, as the wagon moved along. The Viennese are a light-hearted, merry people, sipping their tea and reading papers in open air cafes, where they love to sit and talk and look at the people passing by. We boarded our train and rode away to the northwest, passing into and up a valley of wonderful beauty, with beau- tiful hillsides, beautiful homes, bits of green meadow and scattering trees. Then through a tunnel, and off we were dashing through the country, over and around hills, with their sloping sides covered with grass or forest, looking up FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 81 little side valleys, as pretty as nature and man can make them. Ponds of water, palatial homes of stone, trimmed with soft brilliant colors of green and brown, ever passing forest, field, hill and dale. Over this wondrous and captivating rural scene there came little rifts of sunshine from between the moving clouds, bathing the entire landscape with recurring waves of light and shadow. I gazed; my eyes could not catch all. The surfeit of beauty was too great, and through all the other senses I quaffed great draughts of uplifting, spirit reaching and soul-inspiring food, sweeter, I fancy, than the heavenly food of the angels. We reached an open country, speeding by hamlet, village and farm life again. Over to the left, about forty miles away, I began to notice a range of mountains. They grew in size as the hours passed by. I watched their contour as they assumed height, dis- tinctness and character. I began to suspect that we were approaching the Alps on their northeast corner. They were the largest mountains yet seen in Europe. We passed one of the porcelain factories that Austria takes such a prominence in. There was a village about it, one of the most ornamental ones I ever saw. The houses were trimmed in beautiful colors of green and blue, being all of one size. After this we passed a village located on a hill, then came to and passed up a large river. There were no poor houses in sight. All are wonderfully ornamented. Under the eaves some of them were light green, and the chimneys were tipped in white. Pieces of forest, no finer in any country, not large trees but thrifty growing ones. The peasants must change work, as in one field cutting their after- growth of hay I saw thirty men mowing hay by hand, one after the other across the field, I counted them. The range of mountains at the left came nearer. Patches of forest, farm and meadow or pasture dotted their sides where they were not too precipitous. Villages only two or three miles apart. The most charming combination of rural life yet seen, and as I write this the memory of the picture is so striking -.md real that I have to hold on to the chair I am 82 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. sitting in to keep fr >m soaring aloft in some aerial flight of tho'.ignt, for fear you might think I was drawing on mere fancy and imagination instead of fact. How true it is as the ?dage reads, "T>uth is stranger than fiction." We left the river and curved toward the mountains, with meadows about us as green as the fields of Eden ever were, with wild flowers cropping out, and among them patches of purple flowers so delicate in petal and color that even a king might covet them to wear on his crown. We came close to the mountains. Their contour had been rapidly changing. We now saw towering peaks standing in a bold outline against the sky, and other mountains with great jag- ged rocks clinging to their sides, and range behind range, until some peaks were wrapped in snow. The train stopped at Salzburgh, just in the edge of these Alpine mountains. It was 5 o'clock in the afternoon. The air was cool and bracing, and the mountains looked so in- viting that we broke our journey, as our tickets gave us the right to do, abandoned the train and walked away. Many of the passengers left the train at the same time. There were about twenty hotel carriages or coaches at the station and many cabs. Along streets lined with trees, looking like maple, all in full leaf, and turning little corners of parks of flowers we saw a fine looking hotel, as they all are, and hired a front room on the first floor from the roof, to give us elevation in order to see the mountains, being ever careful to maintain our dignity as Californians should. I opened the front windows and looked out. At the left, in a private park belonging to the hotel. I saw a row of rose bushes loaded with flowers circling along a walk, looking more like a row of flowers in California than any that I had pre- viously noticed. Over the mountains clouds were beginning to gather. On the street oxen were walking along, har- nessed like horses, pulling great loads. Cabs were flying about. Well dressed men and women were perambulating FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 83 along the streets. We were in one of the famous summer resorts of Austria. After adjusting our collars and cravats and brushing our hats, we started to take a walk. We found curio stores and most all other kinds located on the most curious, quaint, crooked and narrow streets I ever saw, connected with lit- tle alley ways, only large enough for carts drawn by dogs or men and people to pass through. There are other streets, wide and nice, but the business and trading seemed to be done mostly on the little streets. We crossed the river, a tributary of the Danube. We came to a sheer wall or preci- pice of rock with a tunnel through it. Over the entrance there is much carving and sculpture, also on the other side, as we passed through. Beyond this ledge of rock, many hundreds of feet high, and as long as we could see either way, and too steep to climb, with a width of several hun- dred feet, we found a beautiful quiet valley full of fine homes and streets lined with large trees. All ovet the city, on both sides of the river, are small and large parks, flow- ers, many shade trees of maple, silver leaf birch, the poplar, with its ever-restless leaves, elm and locusts, with others I could not name. There are many churches and large, handsome hotels by the score, some surrounded by parks, others built up on some hill or crag, and still others perched upon a mountain top or side, to catch the glow of sunset, as fashionable people scarcely ever see the sun rise, except by accident. The next morning I arose early to get an hour or two of quiet. It was before sunrise. The birds were singing as I opened wide the front windows, and all nature, after its refreshing shower bath, seemed to be singing a song of thanksgiving and joy. The approaching light of day in the east revealed an outline of sharp, rugged Alpine moun- tains, with little clouds hovering over their tops. I watched the unfolding of day. Just over the top of a jagged peak the sun rose, peering through a cloud with just enough of color and sunshine that it seemed to say, "Good morning." 84 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. Joyfully I returned the salutation and watched for it to emerge from the cloud, which it did in a few minutes, light- ing up, as only the king of day can, hill, mountain and val- ley, while on bush, tree and flower and adjacent house tops the lingering raindrops caught its light and sparkled like real diamonds. The fresh crisp mountain breeze came from these Alpine mountains, some of them wrapped in beau- tiful snow. As we walked to the station some three hours later, the unexpected streets running in all directions, the arcades, unheard-of places for stores, monuments, statues, and little parks in triangles and squares ; with people in all sorts of dress walking about or riding in carriages, and over it all the charm of fine mountain scenery, made us exclaim, "Beautiful Salzburgh, we only wish that we could linger long within the portals of your inviting doors." As our train rolled away there was woven over some of these sharpest Alpine peaks a wreath of encircling clouds so fine in texture that in this sparkling bright sunshine they looked like crowns of real lace, finer than any Brussels could make, and were fitting for these monarchs of moun- tains to wear. We soon came to a lake on the left and meadows on the right, with cultivated farms on the foothills and beyond the ever-varying outline of these bold appearing mountains. In this European trip I have been much interested in watch- ing the country roads as they would swing into view, some- times running parallel, and as there is much travel on them, enabling me to catch many views of country life. I saw single cows hitched to wagons with poles instead of fills ; cows yoked together, oxen traveling along as brisk as a horse, with collars and tugs to pull by, with their mouths muzzled. Men and women in variety of costumes mostly women carrying bulky loads on top of their heads, some- times balancing them without touching them with their hands ; not riding, but walking with an active step. Morning and evening these roads are traveled much by the peasants in coming and returning from field and village. FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 85 Before and after reaching Prien, the pretty lake continued on the left and the mountains in their change of contour, being large and rugged, were wonderfully interesting. Then we came to the largest lot of lumber yet seen at one place in Europe and a saw mill. Many cars were loading with lumber for market; also in other towns the same features exist. Now the road turned more to the north, leaving the mountains running across an open country very fertile with farms and bits of forest, with their usual bright look, and it is simply surprising to an American to see every farm so neat and their houses in the villages. There is nothing ly- ing around the houses or fields, no fences, and as a rule no hedges in this part of Europe. We passed through, or rather into, Munich. Many of these cities have a large station and the track ends there, then an engine hitches on the rear of the train and away the train goes, circling the city to resume its course again. If the compartment you are in is full, you will be riding with your face the other way after leaving one of these cities. This peculiarity exists mainly in Germany. Munich is a large, well-built city and full of manufactur- ing. These German cities, with their bustle and life and crowds of people taking the trains, resemble American cities more than any other in continental Europe. All these cities are built compact, with scarcely any straggling houses. Com- ing right into farm and field as you leave solid blocks of city houses, it is the same way with the country villages, the houses being close together and cultivated land coming next to the village on all sides. The villages are real close to- gether, there being almost always more than one in sight at once. Not all have stations, as sometimes they will be a mile or two away from the road, and the through express trains (which we always selected) only stopped at the large cities. We passed several peat fields where the farmers have little old wooden houses to store the peat in for their year's use, and some had peat beds on their own farms. We passed Augsburgh, which is quite a large place, and soon reached 86 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. Ulm, a city with fortifications all around it. We here left the river Danube, which we had seen at different times, and passed down a small valley with miles and miles of apple orchards on the hillsides, not set in regular form, but scat- tered around in a haphazzard way. Some of the land is cul- tivated, but most of it is in meadow or pasture, some trees full of apples, others none, and they are all large in size, except some younger trees not in bearing. On the steepest hillsides there were grape vines on little terraces, looking with their stakes at a distance like little patches of real corn just tasseling out. We also saw after passing Stuttgart many vegetable gardens. Here the gloom of evening settled down upon us and we did not reach Mayence until midnight, and the next day sailed down the Rhine to Cologne. Next morning we walked on board the Kaiserin Auguste Victoria at Mayence; rather a fine-looking steamer, yet not as large or handsome as our Hudson river steamers. All sorts of well-dressed people came on board, and from all nations except Oriental. Only now and then did we hear one speaking our language. An officer of the boat rang a bell by striking it with a stick, making a noise like a dinner gong, which was a sig- nal for starting, and away we sailed. A succession of towns along the river's bank, with an open country, for the first half hour's sail ; then stopping at Bingen, a large town where a good many passengers boarded the steamer. The towns along the banks of the river have beautiful walks and drives, ornamented walls and rows of trees. Between the towns the river banks are paved with stone. There are also many jetties of rock to confine the channel, some running parallel with the river, others running out from one shore. The open country was soon replaced by steep hillsides, not as abrupt but as high as the Palisades on the Hudson. In places they are very steep, yet for miles the entire sweep or slope of these hills are terraced into little plots and planted to grapes. In many places a high stone wall is FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 87 built on the lower edge of these little plots only a few feet in width, to hold them. Little stone drains ran from top to bottom of the hill to carry off extra water, should there be a hard rain. Every little nook of land along the river front has a village, and on each side of the river a railway track is built, with trains running frequently and passengers waving their handkerchiefs from the car windows as they passed our steamer. Where a hill is too steep to terrace, it is covered with bushes. We met and passed many little steamers towing canal boats. They were all painted with bands of white, yellow or a terra-cotta color; even the smokestacks of the steamers were painted with some bright band of color around it in the center. Each steamer only tried to tow three or four boats, one behind the other. We passed three rafts of logs during the day, one of them of considerable size. The most interesting of all are the old castles; we probably passed a score of them. On every steep rock or pointed hill, there they were, most of them in ruins. How picturesque they looked, and I could almost fancy that some plumed knight, covered with helmet, would challenge us and combat our passage. The larger the rock or steep hilltop, the larger the castle, as no castles were built in the mediaeval ages except where an abrupt precipice of rock crowned the top of a steep place or small moun- tain, and then the castle builders could construct a moat, covered with a drawbridge on the most exposed side. All they wanted was three abrupt sides in the foundation as a requisite need in starting the castle. All have towers with loopholes, and some of the larger ones had more than one tower. The work required to build one, as they are placed in such inaccessible places, is simply beyond calculation. Some one had repaired one and was living in it, having painted the old walls yellow and put in windows, the most inharmonious thing I ever saw. Their natural color is gray, in keeping with their age and surroundings. Even the Ger- mans on board our steamer were as much interested in look- ing at these castles as people of other nations. 88 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. Some of the little towns that had just room to build be- tween the hills and the river, are gray with age, and must be very old. In many places the river was narrow enough to throw a rock from the steamer to each bank. As we jour- neyed, the hills became smaller and more sloping, with a stretch of land quite level between them and the river. The scene changed. The whole valley then, with the slop- ing hillsides, were covered with green grass and apple trees, one of the prettiest rural scenes in the world. Let me draw another picture. I will not need to tell you how the tables on the upper decks were used during the day only note that waiters stood around with trays in their hands. You can guess the rest. About 2 o'clock in the afternoon dinner was served in the lower saloons, both fore and aft. We had a fine lunch that we purchased in Mayence, therefore did not take dinner. Just near its close I walked by the dining room, the largest one in the aft of the steamer, and as I stood by the tiller I glanced down the whole length of the two dining tables, and in the center was a row of cham- pagne and beer bottles, with their bright showy labels glis- tening in the light, too numerous to be counted without ef- fort and time. Men and women were sitting there by the scores, and I suppose the most enlivening sound to them was the clinking of their glasses and the popping of the corks as the row of bottles increased. No music on these steamers. No room in the saloons except that occupied by the dining tables. The wind was so cold that the passengers crept behind the smoke stack, pilot house and a place where heat came from the boilers. Towards evening the country we passed on either side of the river was level. Far ahead in the distance we saw the towers of the Cologne cathedral. We reached the landing place a little after 5 o'clock and landed in a city that was founded 38 years B. C by the Ro- mans. How does the Rhine compare with the Hudson? The Hudson is wider, has larger mountains and more forests on its banks. Nature has done more for the Hudson than ON THE RHINE, GERMANY. FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 89 for the Rhine. Man has done more to beautify the Rhine than the Hudson. Old castles always have associated with them romance, which in turn captivates people. The Rhine is neat in appearance all along its shores. So is, or was, the Hudson, but man has built scores of unsightly, sometimes unpainted, buildings along the Hudson, sadly marring its beauty, calling them ice houses. The steamers as I have noted are not comfortable. Those on the Hudson are floating palaces compared with them. Yet do not miss sail- ing on the Rhine when you have the opportunity, as there is a charm, a combination of hill and valley, a landscape varied and interesting, something different than seen from any American river. In Cologne we purchased tickets for Rome, nearly eleven hundred miles away, costing us one hundred and eleven marks and forty pfennigs each. We wanted to rest on our journey in Switzerland, over the Sabbath, and finding a good train leaving about sunrise, we arranged to take this early train. In the early morning light we cast another look at this great cathedral, the fifth largest in the world. As we rode away, looking eastward between some streets, I saw the sun just rising like a large, red, round ball. Our train darted through the fortifications and to my surprise the country was enveloped in a fog so thick that for two or three hours we could not distinguish a single object. Were it not for the rattle and bumping of the train, one could almost imag- ine we were sailing through some ethereal regions in space. As we rode through the fortifications at Coblentz, another fortified city many miles from Cologne, the fog began to dis- appear. We were riding up the Rhine on the right bank. For over two thousand years this valley has been settled, and back of that a history in the misty past. As this misty veil of fog kept gathering and then receding, and, in connection with the sun, playing hide and seek over hill, crag, rock, river and castle, I kept thinking that history and harmony were really united like twin sisters, as I looked upon the Rhine 90 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. and its valley this equinoctial September day. There was no wind ; one of those quiet mornings when all nature seems wrapped in some sort of an expectation. How dreary and cheerless you and I and everybody would be in this old world if we were not buoyed up by expectation. At Bingen we changed trains, getting on a fast express train, leaving the Rhine and passing up a small valley where the hillsides were covered with vineyards, all trained to stakes for a trellis. I do not see how they can cultivate be- tween the rows, as the rows are twice as close as you see them planted in California. The grapes are very fine in fla- vor, containing but few seeds. As the train ambled along Elmer spread out our lunch, consisting of some small apple dumplings and some grapes that he had purchased in Co- logne the previous evening. As he commenced eating I heard him exclaim with much enthusiasm, "This is fit for a king!" The country became real hilly. The villages, always close together, were gray with age, and as we rode along, with the city of Worms not very far away, I thought of Martin Luth- er, who, more than any other man, made it possible for Ger- many to be the great progressive nation of Northern Eu- rope. Then it took a Bismarck, a man of iron will, of great foresight and indomitable courage, to mould and unite op- posing factions into this (as I see it) wonderful German na- tion. The hillsides again are covered with apple trees and some forest. We carrj,e to red soil and stone quarries, where the building stone looked like red sandstone. Much quarry- ing was in progress. For the first time in Europe, since we landed in Glasgow, as the morning mists cleared away, could we say that the clouds were gone. A cool, clear, beautiful September day, with just a little rippling breeze, enough to catch each leaf and twig, enough to play a melody on na- ture's harp of golden strings. More priceless than diamonds, of more value than pearls, are our hearts if they are tuned by forces springing from above. Entrancing nature, how I love thee ! Every landscape has something fair to me ; every cloud is only a golden crown, to sail away with by and by. FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 91 The valley narrowed to very sharp hillsides, covered with beautiful forests of pine. After passing Neustadt we came into a level farming country, and again very old-looking vil- lages, only a little way apart. One new feature in the land- scape was some Lombardy poplar trees. We were in a vast plain of fertile land, with not a hill or mountain in sight, as our train sped along towards Strassburg. We came to a hop-growing region, passing hundreds of acres. The hops were gathered and the vines were dead. In some fields the poles were gathered and stacked up like a bivouac of arms ; in others, they were yet standing. I never saw such long poles used in hop-growing America. They were fully thirty feet high. We entered through fortifications into Strassburg. These fortifications had a moat in front of them full of water. At each city were passengers getting on and off the train, other trains coming and going, the hundreds of all sorts of people, the many amusing incidents, the different traits in human character displayed, with the hustle, life and activity, inter- est everybody, and are one of the charms of travel, especially in a foreign land. Soon after leaving Strassburg we saw to the right some small yet wonderfully pretty mountains. We were approach- ing the Alps on the northwest corner or side. All the rest of the afternoon, like a panorama, I watched their contour, the rapidity of change, their sides covered with forest or farm, and their unfolding, or rather enlarging, process, as we swept by mountain after mountain, until by their altitude and abruptness of pinnacle or crag they betokened to us their nearness to, and a part of, Alpine mountains. At 5 o'clock we arrived at Basel, in the edge of Switzer- land. Here our luggage was inspected, and we changed trains after waiting about an hour. Three times we had passed into Germany, circling the empire, until we began to feel at home among its people. We were among another peo- ple, not quite so regular in feature, of shorter build, and on the average a little plainer in their looks. As we rode 92 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. away from Basel we soon left the banks of the Rhine and its valley, which for a short distance we had found again, and began passing up a lovely little valley, with apple trees scattered around, white houses with green blinds, pastures as green as ever grew, through tunnels, around mountains and across the country, until darkness shut out the scene. Just before g o'clock in the evening our train reached Lu- cerne. We walked about to get a moderate-priced room to our liking among the hotels. We saw a pretty lake and steamers on it, and we wanted a room where we could look out upon the lake. There were lots of people walking about , light and shadow everywhere. Up in the fourth story of a fine hotel we found a room just to our liking, looking to the east, catching the whole lake and two streets coming to a square in front. We paid our usual price, eight francs, with every convenience, and feather beds as heretofore, to cover us with at night, with electric lights and attendants. I arose early Sunday morning and looked to the east from our hotel to see the surroundings. It was before sunrise. This entire lake on which Lucerne is sit- uated at its outlet for several miles was in sight. For over a mile directly facing our window is a beautiful promenade, with trees each side, clipped low, yet sufficiently high for shade, and another wide walk between these trees, and a nicely built stone embankment aligning the lake shore. On the left of the walks is the carriage drive, and farther to the left many large, fine hotels fronting the lake. For view and scenery we had one of the best rooms in the city. I wanted to see the sunrise. I saw it was coming up over a high mountain and in range of the lake. Only a faint trace of any clouds was in sight, just a few films of cumuli, so fine that they looked like fine threads of gold thrown up against the sky; no wind, yet the lake was covered with rip- ples, so light that its surface looked like the tracing of an architect's pencil on a mirror of silver. The lake lay in repose, waiting for the king of day. Nearer and nearer this Alpine mountain inclined its top to the coming sun. The FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 93 few threads of gold in the sky caught the coming glow and in turn by a reflex wave traced its golden presence over the little trembling ripples until this whole lake resembled a mass of golden butterflies shaking their wings of welcome to the coming sunrise. Soon the advent of the sun caught crag, peak and lake in its brightness and the golden colors melted away, as they had fulfilled their mission in the usher- ing in of the day. Handsome little steamers were sailing on the lake. After breakfast we started out to find an English church. We came to the largest church in Lucerne, where a chime of bells was ringing. Many people were going in, and we attempted to. This large church with no seats was so crowded with men and women standing up that we could only just get inside the open doors. Most of the men were standing on the right side and the women on the left. It is a Catholic church, and while standing there we concluded that they were offering incense, as we saw smoke ascend from near the altar. The singing and music were fine. We walked along to the English church not far away. We were just in time for the services, which were conducted according to the church of England's established way. About five hun- dred people were present, mostly from England, a very few from America, including these two stray Californians. The sermon was short and read from the pulpit in the manner of an essay. I will only quote one sentence from the sermon which will picture to you its standard: "Happiness is eter- nal life." In the closing prayer I noticed the president of the United States was particularly mentioned. We walked along the fine promenade already described. The day was an ideal one ; soft summer breezes, bright sun- shine, one of those days wherein nature attires herself with her sweetest garb, finer than royalty ever wore. We were surprised at the scene. Here was represented some of the wealth and fashion of Europe. Silks, laces and diamonds, tan shoes (which are still worn in Europe) and white ones as fine and delicate in color as any slippers that Cinderella 94 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. ever wore. Each lady had a dextrous way of lifting her dress skirt (some of you lady readers know how it is done), just a little revealing underskirts of such varied colors that in their blend would eclipse the rainbow, or put a peacock to shame. Culture, yes; perhaps not of the Boston aesthetic kind. Every gentleman looked like a walking fashion plate of the most approved Parisian style. Many of the ladies had on soft, brilliant costumes, assuming, as fashion often does, a dreamy, languid look. Along the water's edge we saw a row of small boats with a flag on each one. During the afternoon as we sat in our room four steamers sailed off on the lake loaded with people, and there were many smaller boats flitting about. Towards evening we started out for a walk and we wanted to see the sunset. Our course again lay over the promenade. What a change! Wealth and fashion had disappeared, more than likely out riding or sailing, or getting ready for a "table d'hote" dinner. We now saw mostly Swiss people, neatly dressed as one would see in an American city. We walked about one and one-half miles out on the lake shore and sat down to see a sunset in the Alps. In the south we saw the largest mountains with large snow fields on them. In the west the principal one is Pilatus, quite close to the lake. Just then I heard Elmer say, "No wonder people like to climb these mountains and risk their lives." He had caught something of the charm and beauty that surround these moun- tains more than many others. The summer climate of Europe is much cooler on an aver- age than in America. At about 8000 feet snow lines begin to be perpetual. All around this mountain lake we could see green grass, apple trees and pieces of forest, except now and then some jagged rocks or a precipitous mountain side. The shadows cast by the setting sun began to lengthen over lake, forest and field, while on yonder mountain tops the snow fields and glaciers began to assume an unwonted bril- liancy in color. Their time for evening dress had arrived, and as the minutes passed I watched their changing colors. FALLEN STATUE OF RAMESES II. MEMPHIS. FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 95 First a spotless white, then a pleasing gray, and later a tint of color rivaling a bed of coral. After sunset from our point of view the scene again changed. On the lake the shadows became sombre, and all about us the gloom of darkness was gathering. Upon those mountain tops the sun still lingered. The slopes of snow and ice became like shining fields of bur- nished brass. For many minutes the scene continued, then another change. Just before sunset those immense snow fields slowly changed in color to a soft red, almost as bril- liant as red velvet, and at sunset the sky caught their reflec- tion in hues of pink and red, and in turn, peak after peak, rock, crag, forest, field and lake, were covered with this royal mantle the after-gleam of sunset, a radiance so far above the natural, that man can only imitate, never equal. As we walked back to Lucerne just before dark, we again looked at these giants of mountains faintly outlined against the sky. Peak and snow fields were there, looking so cold and gray ana still that I wondered as I saw the stars twinkling so merrily if the reflex glory of all the sunsets on the earth was the cause of their twinkling twinkles. About 9 o'clock that evening as I sat in the window of our room looking out on this beautiful lake, I noticed a streak of coming light in the east; I watched and waited. With tender softness the moon, as if in apology for being the "lesser light," appeared, nearly full in size; and in this clear moun- tain sky there came forth from the greatest electric light in the universe a flood of gentle sweetness wherein lovers love to talk the waning hours away, until their hearts are melted in tenderness, and promises are made unto the never-ending day. The next morning as I arose, a falling mist enveloped mountain, city and lake. We took a brisk walk to see that wonderful work of sculpture by Thorwaldson, one of the greatest of sculptors. On the face of a huge precipice a niche is cut in the rock in the form of a half circle, and at the same time a lion is carved out of the same rock, lying in repose as if asleep, as real as life. I think it is the finest piece of 96 A CALI FORM IAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. sculpture I ever saw. Even at that early hour, and in the falling mist, others stood in the grotto where the lion is, looking spell-bound at this wonderful work. We walked about among the many curio stores, and saw beautiful in- laid work on tables and chairs, and many handsome carv- ings in wood. These Swiss people are ingenious, and lovers of beauty, as in the poor peasant's home one will see bloom- ing flowers in their windows. We again boarded our train at 9 o'clock Monday morning for Milan, in Italy. We never left a place where our hearts were so wrapped up with its scenic beauty of mountain and lake as Lucerne. A dense fog prevented further sight-seeing. It was like sailing along in phantom clouds of mist, a relief, however, as continual sight-seeing is extremely tiresome. How re- freshing to lean back on the cushioned seat and let brain, muscle, mind and nerves take a rest. I snuggled down in the soft cushions, closed my eyes and sank into a sort of rhapsody, where in my heart I was singing little bits of song and I am sure nobody but the angels heard me, except Om- nipresence. A sudden jolt of the train awakened me after two hours of solid rest. We were near the head of the lake. The mist was lifting and on the hillsides was the usual scattering of apple trees and the greenest of grass. What a profusion of wild flow- ers, as fresh and bright as any that ever bloomed in the Garden of Eden. The forests of fir are very fine in foliage and of the darkest green. I have seen fir forests in Canada, British Columbia and in Alaska, but none rivaling these in beauty. The home life of these hardy mountain people, their quaint houses and way of living up in these mountain valleys, were very interesting. In some places we noticed many piles of small rocks heaped up so the grass for grazing could have free growth. I became convinced that in all things this mountain scenery was the finest I had ever seen, and I have looked at most of the principal mountains north of Mexico and south of the Arctic circle in America. Here is boldness FROM MOSCOW TO MILAN. 97 until many of these mountain sides and tops are too steep to climb. At Erstfield a glacier was quite near between two mountain peaks. Our train passed through tunnels, some of them built on a curve. Three times we passed one village, until we were far above it, as we had gained grade sufficient to catch an- other valley. There are in all fifty-six tunnels, aggregating twenty-five miles. The scenery was charming; villages in little nooks, with apple trees around them, valleys and gorges so narrow and the mountains so steep that sunrise or sun- set occurs near noon; in other places wide slopes and trees and grass near the snow line. Away from the line of travel, where money is not being scattered, the people are poor, as they have not much to sell. We entered St Gothard tunnel, piercing this range in solid granite. Our train, running quite rapidly, was seven- teen minutes, as our watches indicated, in passing through. As we began to descend on the other side we found a suc- cession of tunnels and mountains high and rugged. The houses began to change. Their roofs were flat stones rudely dressed, with flat stones for the ridge, and the villages looked so old and gray that I really believe many of the houses were built hundreds of years ago, as their windows were just little ones of about four small lights. There are many chestnut trees, with nuts on them, also vineyards ; many little streams of water came rushing down the mountain sides. At Lugano several passengers got off the train, as some of the Italian lakes are near, yet we were still in Switzerland. Here we came to a very pretty* lake, and passed around it and out into an open country, coming to a station called Chiasso. We were now in Italy, and were marshalled into the custom house, our luggage examined, and were required to sign our tickets, then turned out into a little place in the station, fenced in, where we had just room enough to stand up, and waited until an Italian train was made up before anybody was allowed to get out of this cooped-up place. What a scramble for seats in the train as soon as we were 98 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. let out! We just had the privilege of standing up for a few miles until we could get seats. It was getting dark, and the first town we came to had a chain of electric lights running up a mountain. We arrived at Milan at 8 o'clock in the evening, and what a crowd of people there was just outside of the gate to pass in. They are excitable, like the French people. We found a German on the train who could speak English a little. It seems real strange to hear lots of talking all day, and yet not under- stand a word. When this German found out we were going around the world and could talk nothing but Eng- lish, he said : "We would call this lots of cheek up in Ger- many." IV. from $tcme tc Next morning at Milan I was awakened as early as four o'clock by the ringing of many bells in the cathedrals and churches. I suppose it was early morning mass. While com- pleting my toilet I noticed our three suit cases and an English hold all sitting on the floor, and, remembering that we had gone thousands of miles in Europe with only one of our smallest satchels, leaving the rest at Cologne, and wanting nothing, I said to Elmer: "What is in these satchels, anyway?" Quick as a flash the reply came, "Everything under the sun !" We are just packing a lot of things around the world, and many of them we will never look at. His reply was so funny that I sat down and laughed so long that I could hardly talk. How unwise we were! We were wishing somebody would steal part of them. Milan has seven miles of fortifications and is a very old city, yet it is the most prosperous in all Italy. One reason is that there is more manufacturing; another that it is in a more fertile country, being in the center of the plains of Lombardy. Early in the morning we walked to the cathedral, the sec- ond largest church in Europe. The roof is one mass of spires. There are about 2000 carved statues on the outside and some 3000 out and in, including the other pieces of carv- ing. The three large stained windows behind the choir are as large, except curved at the top, as the side of an ordinary two-story house; we admired it very much. To give you 100 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. some idea as to the size, there are 52 pillars 12 feet in diameter, to support roof and interior. For a long time we wandered around these immense pillars, looking at the dome inside 220 feet high and the nave 155 feet high. As I am writing this we have seen the costliest and four of the larg- est churches in the world, yet this is to our eyes the hand- somest. The old stained windows, their wonderful figures, each complete, not just stained glass but all real paintings in the coloring of the glass. It is about 480 feet long and 240 feet wide. We returned to our hotel, packed up our luggage, ordered a cab and at 9 o'clock we were on a train and car, marked as it is spelled here, "Roma." As our train rolled away from Milan out into a flat level country, we saw for miles meadows and fields laid off into small tracts and trees on their edges. The land fertile and water close to the surface. Some of the fields have fur- rows for irrigation across them. The trees were quite un- even, as they cut the tops off for wood. One place we saw some cottonwoods, not many; in places were peach and plum trees. The soil is a light clay. I saw four yoke of oxen pulling one plow. As we came to larger, dry look- ing fields dust was flying on the country roads. The country changed. We passed along a river bed, almost dry, where women were washing clothes on flat rocks by the pools of water, and spreading the clothes to dry on the gravel. The hills on either side were covered with vineyards, all trained to stakes. A train load of soldiers passed us while standing at a station, standing up in the cars holloing loudly and wav- ing their hats. Their white uniforms looked dirty and much in contrast with a car of officers on the same train, all dressed in blue uniforms with gold and red stripes. Up along this dry bed of a river, with little water in it, into a narrow canyon, hills getting large enough for mountains, through tun- nels into another valley, where high mountain sides were covered with terraced vineyards, and clouds gathering. Then through a long tunnel into another valley, with brilliant warm sunshine, and not a cloud in sight. FROM ROME TO SMYRNA. 101 As we passed along, many of the hills and mountains seemed to have a church, monastery or shrine built on them. Then we came to a small town with fortifications behind it, on a range of hills, gray with age. I saw oleander, palm, fig and a few very poor looking orange trees. Then through another tunnel and into the city of Genoa, the birthplace of Columbus. Climbing hills on the left lay the city, with the sun shining brightly and the air full of charm and warmth, a possession belonging only to southern climes. As we left Genoa the mountain sides to the left were covered with olive trees. The higher mountains were bare and brown, and the grass that once grew was dry. There was no wind, not enough to rustle the leaves, and on our right the Mediterra- nean sea looked as placid and calm as any lake you ever saw. Unlike the great oceans, there are no large, rolling waves, only a small tide of perhaps a foot, and just little lazy ripples. The most beautiful and historic sea to sail on in the world. The gardens had many tomatoe vines trel- lised Up like garden beans. We left the coast and rode through a rolling country, with the hills and slopes covered with vineyards and olive trees all intermingled together. Then we passed a country where everything was so dry and rocky that nothing could grow. Farther along at every sta- tion we saw great dray loads of white marble, and off to the left whole mountain sides of marble, as white as any snow field ever seen. Villages are many miles apart, each with its own church, with the cross on top proclaiming the kind. On the country roads, dusty and poor compared with other roads in Europe, there were mostly ox teams, some of the tongues of their carts crooked upward at the end way above the oxen's backs. The gloom of night settled around us and just before midnight, as the moon rose in the east, casting its quiet, mellow look over hill, valley and mountain, our train darted through some walls and we were in great, imperial Rome, once and for many years the greatest city in the world and its proud capital. Jumping into a cab we were hastily driven to the hotel we selected, peering with cu- 102 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. rious eyes into the strange streets. As the driver came to the hotel he blew a long whistle. The hotel entrance lit up, porters grabbed our baggage. We made terms with the clerk for our room, as he spoke a little English. We were whisked up stairs and soon were sleeping as quietly in this city of ro- mance, history and tradition as we ever did in America. The ruins of ancient Rome are so great, its history so mighty that as I take up my pen to give you a little peep at some of the wonderful ruins, and weave into the picture a little of thought, association and feeling, I am appalled at the undertaking. We walked to St. Peter's church, said to have Seen built on the Campus Martus, at the spot St. Peter was crucified, with his head downward at his own request. The approach to the church is on a colossal scale. Some two or three acres of ground are in an open circle, with immense pillars in a semi-circle forming support for a roof all capped with mighty statues on each side. There are at least, I be- lieve, about 300 of these pillars, yet I did not count them. Up many stone steps we ascended to the church, looking at gigantic statues on the roof and all about us of apostles, kings, popes and saints. We walked into the largest and costliest church on earth, costing over $200,000,000. Let me give you the size inside, 835 feet long, 330 feet wide, and 447 feet high. There are no stained windows, yet the gilt and gold with precious stones and alabaster columns, together with its vast size, awaken a feeling of wonder. The costly altars with their lights burning and worshipers before them continually during the day is an impressive sight. Down a little short stairway, where lights are perpetually kept burn- ing, is Peter's tomb, in the center of the church. Many of the faithful go down this stairway, an attendant opens the door and they look in and cross themselves. There among the two dozen or more lights there is at the foot of the stair- way two alabaster columns supporting two lights, and I no- ticed that the attendant struck a match for each party and had them look through the alabaster towards the match. Transparent alabaster is very rare and expensive. An at- REBUILDING RUINS, KAKNAK, EGYPT. FROM ROME TO SMYRNA. 103 tendant took us into some chapels and the cardinal's room and pulled away some curtains on the walls, showing us some of the grandest paintings in the world by Raphael. Bible scenes looking as real as life. Marble floors, mosaic pave- ments and great carved statues on pedestals or in niches in the walls, illustrating the history of the Catholic church, greeted us everywhere. We gave this attendant one franc and told him, who understood our language a little, we wanted to climb to the top of the dome. He called another attendant, who took us to the stairway and said a few words to its keeper, who showed us that permission to ascend the dome must be obtained. We turned to go out but he waved us back with his hand and we climbed te the top of the dome from the inside, then by a door to the outside. A little money opens doors without formal permission. Below us, on and about its seven hills, so signally mentioned in prophecy, lay the modern city of Rome, of about 450,000 population. How mighty when millions of people lived here. We traced the muddy Tiber in its crooked winding way through the city. We saw in the distance the historical Appian way in its approach to and entrance, by one of the fourteen gates, through the walls. To the south and west of Rome the country is level, to the northeast the Alban mountains, and between us and the mountains the Roman Campagna. Every spot is historical. The present city is unlike other cities, not much color, gray roofs, no smoke and several arched bridges crossing the Tiber. We also walked around on the roof of the church, looked down upon the Vatican with its fine gardens and playing fountains, where the Pope lives with his retinue of two thousand persons about him and eleven hundred rooms to put them in. We wanted to follow Paul over the Ossian Way out of the West Gate, but since Paul's time called St. Paul's Gate, to where he was beheaded two miles away from the city walls. We succeeded in finding a cabman who was ac- quainted with the route and could talk a little English. We 104 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. commenced at the Mamertine prison, where Paul was in- carcerted. We descended into the very dungeon; (in Paul's time there was no stairway leading to it, only an aperture in the top, which we saw, large enough to let a man down or his food through.) We had to have candles in this ter- rible place, almost circular, about twelve feet across. This prison is cut out of solid rock and on one side there is a passage way, where we saw three holes through the rock for the ropes used to strangle prisoners with. This secret passage way we saw extended to the Tiber, under the old city, where the prisoners' bodies were thrown in. It made us shudder in this prison, yet brave, patient Paul withstood all, through his and our Christ. We rode down a crooked, narrow street to the banks of the Tiber. When Paul was led out of the prison he doubtless saw the great Roman Fo- rum, the palaces of the kings or emperors on Palatine Hill and great triumphal arches which stood just by the prison. One thing that Paul saw (except the clouds, if any that day in the sky) was the Temple of Hercules, standing near the river's brink and built about one hundred years before Christ. The roof is new but the pillars, except one, are there just the same. We passed out of the old gate and drove along in an almost open country. We came to St. Paul's church, where it is claimed the remains of St. Paul are. It is the most costly church of its ( size in the world, costing over sixty-five millions of dollars. It is constructed of the finest marble from Africa, in all tints and colors, rivaling the rainbow. Upon its sides are the paintings of all the Popes, 287 of them ; and there are great marble statues of all the apostles. Some of the finest paintings the earth affords we saw here, one, the Ascension, another Heaven opened and the angels flying around at the stoning of Stephen. The en- tire ceiling is covered with gold and underneath pillars of alabaster, some of them transparent, the finest that the earth affords. We were simply filled with wonder, and almost tip- toed about amid all this splendor. We drove along a little narrow country road with scarcely a house in sight. Still FROM ROME TO SMYRNA. 105 following the route Paul traveled to his place of execution, and over in the dry brown fields I saw some beautiful wild flowers ; I alighted from the carriage and gathered some of them. A strange, sad tenderness came into my heart, a few tear drops fell, then as I looked at hill, mountain and valley, overarched with dark looking storm clouds, these beautiful wild flowers of pink, purple, blue and yellow again caught my attention and thought All over central and southern Italy and on every road we traveled in and about Rome, nowhere did I see so many wild flowers as on this Ossian Way outside of the city's gates. Did nature hear the prayer of Paul And wear these royal robes for all? She truly did, as I could see With the eye of sight given by Thee. The angels hovered over all the Way As Paul walked along that eventful day Something of his triumph as he ran the race I caught from these flowers through bounteous Grace. Worth more to me than the entire cost of my journey around the world was this one simple touch of nature, so deep that my soul came in contact with nature's God, and I was fed with food sweeter than ambrosia or nectar. We rode along over the dusty road. In falling cadence the south wind blew, carrying portentious looking clouds along in fitful gusts of glee. Just as we rode up to the entrance of a place called the "Three Fountains" a few large drops of rain came bouncing through the air. As the cab halted we jumped out, a porter opened the gate and summoned a friar to attend us. A few hundred feet away, up an avenue of trees and flowers, we saw three beautiful little chapels, fully twenty feet apart. On the right is, to our surprise, a forest of eucalyptus trees, 150,000 of them, covering several acres. Except some small parks in the city, this forest of 106 A CALIFORNIAN CIRCLING THE GLOBE. trees ,twenty-eight years old, is the only semblance of a forest to be seen anywhere in the vicinity of Rome. We came to the three little chapels. Then, seeing that we ex- pected their history, or legend, as you may be pleased to call it, the friar told us in broken English, showing us the block of stone on which Paul was beheaded, that as "his head rolled off it bounded three times, and at each time a fountain of water sprang from the ground." We drank from one of the fountains, yet we saw nor heard no water running in any of them. In one of the chapels was some Mosaic pavement, which he said "was two thousand years old," surrounded with a chain. We returned to the cab, with orders to take us to one of the Catacombs. We drove along towards the Appian Way. There are several hundred acres of these underground tombs. We procured a guide, who furnished us with two torches